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+*.txt text eol=lf
+*.htm text eol=lf
+*.html text eol=lf
+*.md text eol=lf
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+This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
+metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
+Procedures for determining public domain status are described in
+the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org.
+
+No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in
+jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize
+this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright
+status under the laws that apply to them.
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #69657 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/69657)
diff --git a/old/69657-0.txt b/old/69657-0.txt
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-The Project Gutenberg eBook of Itinerarium Curiosum (Centuria I), by
-William Stukeley
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
-most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
-of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you
-will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before
-using this eBook.
-
-Title: Itinerarium Curiosum (Centuria I)
- or, An account of the antiquities, and remarkable curiosities in
- nature or art, observed in travels through Great Britain
-
-Author: William Stukeley
-
-Release Date: December 29, 2022 [eBook #69657]
-
-Language: English
-
-Produced by: Tim Lindell, Robert Tonsing and the Online Distributed
- Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was
- produced from images generously made available by The
- Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
-
-*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ITINERARIUM CURIOSUM
-(CENTURIA I) ***
-
-
-
-[Illustration: Wᵐ. STUKELEY M.D.]
-
-[Illustration: _Frontispiece._
-
- +Itinerarivm. Cvriosvm. Centvria. i.+
-
- _Stukeley delin._]
-
-
-
-
- ITINERARIUM CURIOSUM:
- OR,
- AN ACCOUNT OF THE
- ANTIQUITIES,
- AND REMARKABLE
- CURIOSITIES
- IN
- NATURE +OR+ ART,
- OBSERVED IN TRAVELS THROUGH
- GREAT BRITAIN.
-
- ILLUSTRATED WITH COPPER PLATES.
-
- CENTURIA I.
-
- THE SECOND EDITION,
- WITH LARGE ADDITIONS.
-
- By WILLIAM STUKELEY, M.D. F.R. & A.S.
-
- _O Patria, O Divûm domus, Albion, inclyta bello!
- O quam te memorem, quantum juvat usque morari
- Mirarique tuæ spectacula plurima terræ!_
-
- LONDON:
- Printed for Messrs. +Baker+ and +Leigh+,
- in York-Street, Covent-Garden.
- M.DCC.LXXVI.
-
-
-
-
- TABLE OF CONTENTS.
-
- PREFACE
- ITER DOMESTICUM. I. 1
- ITER OXONIENSE. II. 34
- ITER CIMBRICUM. III. 51
- ITER SABRINIUM. IV. 62
- ITER ROMANUM. V. 75
- ITER DUMNONIENSE. VI. 134
- ITER SEPTIMUM ANTONINI AUG. VII. 176
- THE PLATES
- INDEX
-
-
-
-
- PREFACE.
-
-
-The intent of this Treatise is to oblige the curious in the Antiquities
-of Britain: it is an account of places and things from inspection, not
-compiled from others’ labours, or travels in one’s study. I own it is a
-work crude and hasty, like the notes of a traveller that stays not long
-in a place; and such it was in reality. Many matters I threw in only
-as hints for further scrutiny, and memorandums for myself or others:
-above all, I avoided prejudice, never carrying any author along with
-me, but taking things in the natural order and manner they presented
-themselves: and if my sentiments of Roman stations, and other matters,
-happen not to coincide with what has been wrote before me; it was
-not that I differ from them, but things did not so appear to me. The
-prints, beside their use in illustrating the discourses, are ranged in
-such a manner as to become an index of inquiries for those that travel,
-or for a British Antiquary. I shall probably continue this method at
-reasonable intervals. The whole is to invite Gentlemen and others in
-the country, to make researches of this nature, and to acquaint the
-world with them: they may be assured, that whatever accounts of this
-sort they please to communicate to me, they shall be applied to proper
-use, and all due honour paid to the names of those that favour me with
-a correspondence so much to the glory and benefit of our country, which
-is my sole aim therein.
-
-It is evident how proper engravings are to preserve the memory of
-things, and how much better an idea they convey to the mind than
-written descriptions, which often not at all, oftener not sufficiently,
-explain them: beside, they present us with the pleasure of observing
-the various changes in the face of nature, of countries, and the
-like, through the current of time and vicissitude of things. These
-embellishments are the chief _desiderata_ of the excellent Mr. Camden’s
-_Britannia_, and other writers of this sort, whose pens were not so
-ready to deliver their sentiments in lines as letters: and how hard it
-is for common artificers to draw from mere description, or to express
-well what they understand not, is obvious from our engravings in all
-sciences. I am sensible enough, that large allowances must be made for
-my own performances in this kind, and some for the artificers parts
-therein, who, for want of more practice in such works, cannot equal
-others abroad. I know not whether it will be an excuse, or a fault, if
-I should plead the expedition I used in the drawing part; but I may
-urge, that a private person, and a moderate fortune, may want many
-useful assistants and conveniences for that purpose. It is enough for
-me to point them out; to show things that are fine in themselves, and
-want little art to render them more agreeable, or that deserve to be
-better done; or any way to contribute toward retrieving the noble
-monuments of our ancestors; in which case only, we are behind other
-the learned nations in Europe. It is not that we have a less fund of
-curiosities than they, were the description of them attempted by an
-abler hand, and more adequate experience.
-
-Two or three of the plates are inserted only as heads, being not
-referred to in the discourse, as Tab. VIII. the ground-plot of the
-ruins of Whitehall. I myself never saw the palace, but was pleased
-that I chanced to take this draught of its ruinous ichnography, but
-the very week before totally destroyed. Thus much I thought owing to
-the venerable memory of that name, which is ever the word at sea with
-British ships, and which makes the whole world tremble. Tab. X. is an
-ancient seal of the bishops of Norwich.[1] This plate the learned and
-curious Mr. le Neve, Norroy king at arms, lent me out of his good will
-to promote the work: the seal is remarkable for having letters upon
-the edge, represented in the empty ringlet; the manner of it is like
-our milled money; but how it was performed in wax, is not easy to say.
-Tab. XV. was likewise lent me by Mr. Norroy abovesaid. I design always,
-in these collections of mine, to insert one plate in a hundred, of
-some person’s _effigies_ that has deserved well of the antiquities of
-Britain: it is but a just piece of gratitude to their memory. Tab. XL.
-(the Greek view at Athens) I took from an original drawing in Mr.
-Talman’s collection. I have some more of that sort: though they relate
-not to Britain, I do not fear the reader will be displeased with me on
-that account. How much rather ought we to lament the scarcity of such!
-What noble monuments of Greece are sunk into eternal oblivion, through
-want of Drawing in travellers that have been there in great numbers, or
-for want of encouragement to those that are able! With what regret do I
-mention that most beautiful temple of Minerva in the citadel of Athens,
-without dispute the finest building upon the globe, _anno_ 1694! that
-year it was casually blown up with gunpowder, and not a drawing of it
-preserved.
-
-[Illustration: _Guil: Faithorne Sculp:_
-
- _HENRICUS SPELMANNUS._
- _Eques Auratus._]
-
-[Illustration: PALACES.
-
- _The Groundplot of the Ruins of Whitehall June 14. 1718._
-
- _Stukeley del_ _JVᵈᵉʳ. Gucht Sculp_]
-
-[Illustration: _Ex autographo penes Maiorem et Com̃unitat._
- _Villæ Lenne Regis in Com Norff._
-
- I. Harris Sculpᵗ.]
-
-[Illustration: _A View at Athens._
-
- _Ex collectionᵉ Joh̄īs̄ Talman Ar._]
-
-[Illustration: _101. 2ᵈ._
-
- _A View of the Temple of the Winds at Athens._
-
- _A Lyon Cast in brass standing by yᵉ Port of Athens._]
-
-[Illustration: _102. 2ᵈ._
-
- _The Temple of Minerva at Syracuse._
-
- _The Ichnography of the same Temple._
-
- _Stukeley del._]
-
-[Illustration: _Insignis Synodus quinq, Planetarum Anno 1722, Mense
- Decembrifacta ad ho:7 .matutinas._
-
- _Gradus Sigittary._
-
- _Celeberrimo Hallejo Astronomo Regio tabulam reddit L. M. Wˢ.
- Stukeley._]
-
-The last plate, of the great conjunction of the five planets, I
-added as an _æra_ of my book. This memorable appearance, because it
-affected not the vulgar like a solar eclipse, was almost neglected
-by the learned. I had a mind to do it justice by printing the type
-of it from the diagram sent me by the great Dr. Halley. For my part,
-I congratulate myself for living in an age fruitful of these grand
-phænomena of the celestial bodies, and am pleased, that beside the
-total eclipse 1715, we have in the space of two years this great
-conjunction, a transit of Mercury across the sun, a comet, the last
-eclipse of the sun, and in March next another great conjunction.
-
-The numerous plates I have given the reader, of ground-plots and
-prospects of Roman cities, I thought contributed much towards fixing
-their site, and preserving their memory: they may be useful to curious
-inhabitants, in marking the places where antiquities are found from
-time to time, and in other respects. There are some few errors of the
-press escaped me, notwithstanding all my care; but none, I think, of
-any consequence. I have taken care to make the Index as instructing as
-I could. The title of _Roman roads_ belongs to such as are anonymous,
-or not commonly taken notice of: that of _Roman coins_ points to such
-places as are not Roman towns, or particularly described. _Etymology_
-includes only such words as are scattered casually in the work, or
-matters that are not comprehended under any other head; and so of the
-rest.
-
-One general observation I have made within the short space of time
-my travels were limited to, that husbandry, grazing, cultivation of
-waste lands, all sorts of trades and manufactures, towns and cities,
-are hugely improved; and especially the multitude of inhabitants is
-increased to a high proportion: the reason of it is not difficult to be
-guessed at.
-
-What I shall next trouble the reader withall, will be my intended work,
-of the history of the ancient Celts, particularly the first inhabitants
-of Great Britain, which for the most part is now finished. By what I
-can judge at present, it will consist of four books in folio. I. The
-history of the origin and passage of the Celts from Asia into the west
-of Europe, particularly into Britain; of their manners, language, &c.
-II. Of the religion, deities, priests, temples, and sacred rites, of
-the Celts. III. Of the great Celtic temple at Abury in Wiltshire, and
-others of that sort. IV. Of the celebrated Stonehenge. There will be
-above 300 copper plates of a folio size, many of which are already
-engraven; and many will be of much larger dimensions. Upon account,
-therefore, of the vast expence attending this work, I shall print no
-more than are subscribed for; the money to be paid to me only. Thus
-much I thought fit to advertise the friendly reader.
-
- _Ormond-street, 26 Dec. 1724._
-
-
- GULIELMO STUKELEY, _M. D._
-
- _Amicus Amico_, &c.
-
- _Lubrica Romani dum Tu monumenta pererras
- Nominis, & tacito saecula lapsa pede:
- Docte opifex, variis seu vim sermonibus addas,
- Seu placet artifici pagina picta manu;
- Quanta vetustatis summae miracula promis,
- Obrutaque indigno moenia celsa situ!
- Vindice Te, fossas video procedere longas.
- Per loca constratum devia ducit iter.
- Nunc via sublimi conscendit vertice montes,
- Flumina declivis nunc per aperta ruit.
- Castra quot immenso retegis constructa labore?
- Et tua non sinit ars oppida posse mori.
- Hic mira antiquae pendent compagine portae,
- Hic tremulo fulget lumine grata pharos.
- Celsior exsurgit chartis Romana potestas
- Clara tuis; ultro est fassa ruina decus.
- Ecce iterum ingenti pandunt curvamine sedes,
- Et plausu resonant amphitheatra novo.
- Roma triumphato jamdudum languida mundo
- Nequicquam invictam se superesse dolet.
- Nec te dira cohors morborum sola tremiscit,
- Ast tempus medicas sentit inerme manus.
- Quantum Roma tibi, quantum Brittannia debet.
- O ingens patriae, Romulidumque decus!
- Accipe Phoebea merito dignissime lauro,
- Sint, quæ das aliis, saecula sera tibi._
-
- I. S.
-
-
- GULIELMO STUKELEY, _M. D._ &c.
-
-
- _Nec sola est medicina Tui, sed Apolline dignam
- Artem omnem recolis, mente, manuque potens.
- Non modo restituis senio morbisque gravatos,
- Ad vitam reddis sæcla sepulta diu.
- Te Lindensis ager gestit celebrare nepotem,
- Quæque dedit, patriæ lumina grate refers._
-
- GEOR. LYNN, Interior. Templ. Soc.
-
-
- In Itinerarium Curiosum amici sui charissima viri
- doctissimi & Cl. Domini +Gulielmi Stukeleii+
- M. D. CML. SRS. & Antiquar. Secretar.
-
- _O Jane bifrons! Temporis inclyte
- Vindex remoti, de superis videns
- Post terga solus, nunc adesto et
- Egregium tueare amicum
- Opusque. templi janua sit tui
- Serata, dum ex bis nostra quietior
- Discat juventus, quid avorum
- Indomitæ potuere dextræ.
- Quicquid Britannus ferre recusans
- Servile collo Romulidum jugum,
- Terra sua contentus egit,
- Artibus ingenitis beatus.
- Quicquid Quirites gentibus asperis
- Cultu renidens tradere providi:
- Victoriam, Musasque & artes,
- Arma simul rapiente dextra.
- Nec vestra omittit pagina Saxonem
- Sicâ timendum, relligionibus
- Valde revinctum: bellicosis
- Horribilemve Dacum carinis.
- Nec tu recondis facta silentio
- Præclara Normanni immemor inclyti;
- Quorum omnium est imbutus Anglus
- Sanguine, moribus, & vigore.
- Quæ mira doctus condidit artifex
- Excelsa prisci mœnia seculi,
- Quæ strata, pontes, templa, castra,
- Amphitheatra, asarota, turres!
- Plaudit sibi jam magna Britannia
- Antiqua splendet gloria denuo.
- Chartis resurgit Stivecleji
- Celsa canens iterum triumphos._
-
- MAUR. JOHNSON, J. C.
- Interioris Templi Soc. +MDCCXXIV.+
-
-
- In +Stukelejanas+ Antiquitates.
-
- _Deperditorum restitutor Temporum
- Et veritatis in tenebris abditæ
- Scrutator eruditus, arte quâ mirâ valet!
- Retegit vetustum quicquid obscuro sinu
- Abscondit Ævum. Tempus, hic aciem tuæ
- Falcis retundit invidam: frustra omnia
- Comples ruinis. jam tuæ pereunt minæ.
- Ipsæ perire nam ruinæ nesciunt._ M. M.
-
-
- Ad +Itinerarii Curiosi+ auctorem.
-
- _Quantum Roma tibi, et Romana Britannia debet,
- Ingenui Vates, Vir celebrande, canant.
- Me nec Roma modos suaves, nec Celtica tellus
- Argutæ docuit stringere fila lyræ.
- Muneris hoc igitur vani cur hybrida tentem
- Normannus, Cimber, Saxo, Britannus ego?
- Musa negat, Natura negat, sed suggerit unus
- Qualiacunque potest carmina noster Amor._
-
- _Gratulor inceptum tibi nobile, gratulor illis,
- Inter quos nomen glorior esse meum:
- Qui patriæ priscas arteis, loca, nomina, & ipsas
- Relliquias sancta relligione colunt;
- Quo brevis ostendis conclusus limite campi,
- Limite quam nullo clauditur ingenium.
- Quòque tuos sensus permulcet amore_ +Vetustas+,
- _Qui nullos casus, ardua nulla fugis.
- Per salebras asp’ras, per tortas ambitiones,
- Et cæcos calles, improbe, carpis_ +Iter+.
- _Stagna lacúsque inter, limosáque pascua Lindi,
- Romanæ explorans avia strata viæ.
- Hic ubi sorte dolens, pelagi tot jugera rector
- Æquoris herbosi non sua, rapta tenet.
- Plura quidem tenuit, sed jussit Jupiter acres
- Martigenas patrui vim cohibere sui.
- Haud secus ac jussi faciunt, partémque receptam
- Terreni, ut par est, æquoris esse jubent.
- Cætera raptori quæ nunc manet Ennosigæo,
- Si quibus est armis, est repetenda tuis.
- Qui terræ pelagíque adeo declivia monstras,
- Et quò præcipites Nereus urget equos;
- Tanta mathematicis se tollit gloria vestra
- Artibus; at numeris grandior illa meis.
- Me rapit addictum veterum admiratio rerum,
- Plenáque deliciis pagina quæque suis.
- Tu monumenta pius, monumentis adstruis ipsis,
- Perdita quæ fuerant, posse perire vetans.
- Quid referam quantum tibi debet Classicus auctor,
- Qui priscas urbes, castràque prisca doces?
- Mercator siccis quærens adamantas in oris,
- Non tam conductam versat avarus humum,
- Quam tu cum nummos, urnas, & cætera signa
- Antiquæ effodias indubitata notæ.
- Nomina, quæ fuerant olim, Romana reducis,
- Perdita restituens, obsolefacta novans.
- Nec te, antiquarum tam mira peritia vocum est,
- Fallunt Teutonici, barbaricique soni.
- Historiam quantum decoras, si dicere vellem,
- Historiam videar scribere, non literas._
-
- _Tu das præteritis veluti præsentibus uti,
- Et redeunt scriptis secula lapsa tuis.
- Detrahis ancipiti Jano mirabile monstrum,
- Et recta facie cernere cuncta jubes.
- Sed dum commendo tua, carmine digna Maronis.
- Ingenii culpâ detero, scripta, mei.
- Macte tua virtute esto, patriamque quotannis
- Quo pede cæpisti demereare._ Vale.
-
- R. AINSWORTH.
-
-
- To Dr. +Stukeley+, upon his _Itinerarium Curiosum_.
-
- Hail, Baxter lives! in each descriptive page
- Are seen the labours of the Roman age:
- What ere the sons of Rome or Albion knew,
- We here discern at one compendious view.
- Thus taught we pass the Caledonian flood,
- Or fertile plains that smile from Cimbric blood:
- Where Vaga’s streams glide murmuring near the tomb, }
- (Darksome recess) where mighty Chiefs of Rome }
- Have slumber’d ages in its silent gloom: }
- Where airy lamps the distant sailor guide,
- Or where the labour’d arch deceives the tide:
- Where Geta kept the Belgic youth in awe,
- Or where Papinian gave the Roman law.
- Pleas’d I behold Sabrina’s silver stream,
- Or hear the murmurs of the doubtful Teme.
- With you, methinks, from Cred’nil I survey
- Th’ important conflict of the furious day:
- See, see! Frontinus fierce in armour shine,
- Where the war burns upon the vale of Eigne.
- Here on the plains of Aricon we learn
- Life’s various period from the peaceful urn.
- Yon hoary Druids pray celestial aid,
- Where sacred oaks diffuse a solemn shade;
- Each branch aspiring to the blest abode
- Lifts up the vows of Britain to the God.
- Go on, my friend! the curious theme pursue, }
- The mystic scenes of early time review, }
- And tell Britannia, Baxter lives in you. }
-
- JAMES HILL, J. C.
- _Middle-Temple, London, Dec. 1. 1724._
-
-[Illustration: _Ingratiam Itinerantium Curiosorum. +Antonini+_ Aug.
- _+Itinerarium+_ per +Britanniam+. tentavit _W. Stukeley_ 1723.]
-
-
-
-
- ITINERARIUM CURIOSUM, &c.
-
- ITER DOMESTICUM. I.
-
- _I, fuge, sed poteras tutior esse domi._ +Mart.+
-
-
- _To_ MAURICE JOHNSON, Jun. _Esq._
-
- _Barrister at Law of the_ Inner-Temple.
-
-The amity that long subsisted between our families giving birth to an
-early acquaintance, a certain sameness of disposition, particularly a
-love to antient learning, advanced our friendship into that confidence,
-which induces me to prefix your name to this little summary of what
-has occurred to me worth mentioning in our native country, HOLLAND,
-in Lincolnshire; but chiefly intended to provoke you to pursue a full
-history thereof, who have so large a fund of valuable papers and
-collections relating thereto, and every qualification necessary for
-the work. That these memoirs of mine are so short, is because scarce
-more time than that of childhood I there spent, and when I but began to
-have an inclination for such enquiries: that the rest which follow are
-grown to such a bulk as to become the present volume, is owing to my
-residence at London. Great as are the advantages of this capital, for
-opportunities of study, or for the best conversation in the world, yet
-I should think a confinement to it insupportable, and cry out with the
-poet,
-
- _Invideo vobis agros, formosaque prata._ Virg.
-
- I envy you your fields and pastures fair.
-
-which engages me to make an excursion now and then into the country:
-and this is properly taking a review of pure nature; for life here
-may be called only artificial, especially when fixed down to it;
-like the gaudy entries upon a theatre, where a pompous character is
-supported for a little while, and then makes an exit soon forgotten.
-My ancestors, both paternal and maternal, having lived, from times
-immemorial, in or upon the edges of our marshy level, perhaps gave me
-that melancholic disposition, which renders the bustlings of an active
-and showy life disagreeable. The fair allurements of the business of
-a profession, which have been in my road, cannot induce me wholly to
-forsake the sweet recesses of contemplation, that real life, that
-tranquillity of mind, only to be met with in proper solitude; where I
-might make the most of the pittance of time allotted by Fate, and if
-possible doubly over enjoy its fleeting space. I own a man is born for
-his country and his friends, and that he ought to serve them in his
-best capacity; yet he confessedly claims a share in himself: and that,
-in my opinion, is enjoying one’s self; not, as the vulgar think, in
-heaping up immoderate riches, titles of honour, or in empty, irrational
-pleasures, but in storing the mind with the valuable treasures of the
-knowledge of divine and human things. And this may in a very proper
-sense be called the study of Antiquities.
-
-[Sidenote: _Of the study of_ +Antiquities+.]
-
-I need not make an apology to you for that which some people of
-terrestrial minds think to be a meagre and useless matter; for
-truly what is this study, but searching into the fountain-head of
-all learning and truth? Some antient philosophers have thought that
-knowledge is only reminiscence. If we extend this notion no further
-than as to what has been said and done before us, we shall not be
-mistaken in asserting that the past ages bore men of as good parts as
-we: enquiry into their thoughts and actions is learning; and happy for
-us if we can improve upon them, and find out things they did not know,
-by help of their own clue. All things upon this voluble globe are but
-a succession, like the stream of a river: the higher you go, the purer
-the fluid, less tainted with corruptions of prejudice or craft, with
-the mud and soil of ignorance. Here are the things themselves to study
-upon; not words only, wherein too much of learning has consisted. If
-we examine into the antiquities of nations that had no writing among
-them, here are their monuments: these we are to explore, to strike
-out their latent meaning; and the more we reason upon them, the more
-reason shall we find to admire the vast size of the gigantic minds
-of our predecessors, the great and simple majesty of their works,
-and wherein mainly lies the beauty and the excellence of matters of
-antiquity. But more especially it is not without a happy omen, that
-the moderns have exerted themselves in earnest, to rake up every dust
-of past times, moved by the evident advantages therefrom accruing, in
-the understanding their invaluable writings, which have escaped the
-common shipwreck of time. It is from this method we must obtain an
-accurate intelligence of those principles of learning and foundations
-of all science: it is from them we advance our minds immediately to the
-state of manhood, and without them the world 5000 years old would but
-begin to think like a child. Nothing more illustrates this than looking
-into the comments that were wrote upon them 200 years ago, voluminous
-enough, but barbarous, poor, and impertinent, when compared to the
-solid performances of learned men since, whose heads were enriched with
-an exact search into the customs, manners and monuments of the writers.
-Hence it is, that history, geography, mathematics, philosophy, the
-learned professions, law, divinity, our own faculty, and the muses in
-general, flourish like a fresh garden richly watered and cultivated,
-weeded from rubbish of logomachy and barren mushrooms, gay with
-thriving and beautiful plants of true erudition, inoculated upon the
-stocks of the antients.
-
-[Sidenote: _Of_ +Britain+.]
-
-If ruminating upon antiquities at home be commendable, travelling at
-home for that purpose can want no defence; it is still coming nearer
-the lucid springs of truth. The satisfaction of viewing realities has
-led infinite numbers of its admirers through the labours and dangers
-of strange countries, through oceans, immoderate heats and colds, over
-rugged mountains, barren sands and deserts, savage inhabitants, and a
-million of perils; and the world is filled with accounts of them. We
-export yearly our own treasures into foreign parts, by the genteel and
-fashionable _tours_ of France and Italy, and import ship-loads of books
-relating to their antiquities and history (it is well if we bring back
-nothing worse) whilst our own country lies like a neglected province.
-Like untoward children, we look back with contempt upon our own mother.
-The antient Albion, the valiant Britain, the renowned England, big with
-all the blessings of indulgent nature, fruitful in strengths of genius,
-in the great, the wise, the magnanimous, the learned and the fair,
-is postponed to all nations. Her immense wealth, traffic, industry;
-her flowing streams, her fertile plains, her delightful elevations,
-pleasant prospects, curious antiquities, flourishing cities, commodious
-inns, courteous inhabitants, her temperate air, her glorious show of
-liberty, every gift of providence that can make her the envy and the
-desirable mistress of the whole earth, is slighted and disregarded.
-
-You, Sir, to whom I pretend not to talk in this manner, well know that
-I had a desire by this present work, however mean, to rouse up the
-spirit of the Curious among us, to look about them and admire their
-native furniture: to show them we have rarities of domestic growth.
-What I offer them is an account of my journeyings hitherto, but little
-indeed, and with expedition enough, with accuracy no more than may be
-expected from a traveller; for truth in every particular, I can vouch
-only for my own share, strangers must owe somewhat to informations. I
-can assure you I endeavoured as much as possible not to be deceived,
-nor to deceive the reader. It was ever my opinion that a more intimate
-knowledge of Britain more becomes us, is more useful and as worthy a
-part of education for our young nobility and gentry as the view of any
-transmarine parts. And if I have learnt by seeing some places, men and
-manners, or have any judgment in things, it is not impossible to make a
-classic journey on this side the streights of Dover.
-
-Thus much at least I thought fit to premise in favour of the study of
-antiquities. And with particular deference to the society of British
-Antiquaries in London, to whom I remember with pleasure you first
-introduced me: since for some time I have had the honour of being their
-secretary; to them I beg leave to consecrate the following work. To
-the right honourable the Earl of Hartford the illustrious and worthy
-President, the right honourable the Earl of Winchelsea, Peter le Neve,
-esq; Roger Gale, esq; the illustrious and worthy Vice-presidents, and
-to the learned Members thereof. Then, lest I should fall under my own
-censure passed upon others, that know least of things nearest them,
-I shall deliver my thoughts about the history of +Holland+ before
-mentioned, which may serve as a short comment upon the map of this
-country which I published last year, with a purpose of assisting the
-gentlemen that are commissioners of sewers there, though it is of such
-a bulk as cannot conveniently be inserted into this volume.
-
-If we cast our eyes upon the geography of England, we must observe that
-much of the eastern shore is flat, low ground, whilst the western is
-steep and rocky. This holds generally true throughout the globe as to
-its great parts, countries or islands, and likewise particularly as to
-its little ones, mountains and plains. I mean, that mountains are steep
-and abrupt to the west,[2] especially the north-west, and have a gentle
-declivity eastward or to the south-east, and that plains ever descend
-eastward. I wonder very much that this remark has never been made. I
-took notice of it in our own country, almost before I had ever been
-out of it, in the universal declivity of that level eastward, in those
-parts where it did not by that means regard the ocean; particularly in
-South Holland, or the wapentake of Elho: the natural descent of water
-therein is not to the sea, as the rivers run, but directly eastward,
-and that very considerable. Beside, the current of every river is lower
-as more eastward: thus the Welland is higher in level than the Nen, the
-Nen than the Ouse; and probably at first both emptied themselves by the
-Ouse or Lyn river as most eastward. I observed in June 1732, that the
-Peterborough river Nen would willingly discharge itself into Whitlesea
-mere, and so to the Ouse at Lyn, if it were not hindered by the sluice
-at Horsey bridge by the river Nen. I see no difficulty to attribute the
-reason of it to the rotation of the globe. Those that have gone about
-to demonstrate to us that famous problem of the earth’s motion, have
-found out many mathematical and abstracted proofs for that purpose, but
-neglected this which is most sensible and before our eyes every minute.
-It is a property of matter, that when whirled round upon an _axis_, it
-endeavours to fly from the _axis_, as we see in the motion of a wheel,
-the dirt and loose parts are thrown the contrary way in a tangent
-line. This is owing to the natural inactivity of matter, which is not
-easily susceptible of motion. Now at the time that the body of the
-earth was in a mixt state between solid and fluid, before its present
-form of land and sea was perfectly determined, the almighty Artist
-gave it its great diurnal motion. By this means the elevated parts or
-mountainous tracts, as they consolidated whilst yet soft and yielding,
-flew somewhat westward, and spread forth a long declivity to the east:
-the same is to be said of the plains, their natural descent tending
-that way, and, as I doubt not, of the superfice of the earth below the
-ocean. This critical minute is sublimely described by the admirable
-poet and observer of nature,
-
- _Namque canebat, uti magnum per inane coacta
- Semina terrarumque, animæque, marisque fuissent,
- Et liquidi simul ignis. Ut his exordia primis
- Omnia, & ipse tener mundi concreverit orbis.
- Tum durare solum & discludere nerea ponto
- Cœperit, & rerum paulatim sumere formas._ +Virg.+ Ecl. +VI.+
-
-which may thus be englished.
-
- He sang, how from the mighty void, in one
- Large space, collected were the fluid seeds
- Of earth, air, sea and fire; from these came all.
- The callow world became one massive globe;
- The ocean by the hard’ning ground disjoin’d,
- New forms surpris’d the beauteous face of things.
-
-The truth of this observation I have seen universally confirmed in all
-my travels, and innumerable instances of it will occur to the reader
-throughout these discourses. I design another time professedly to treat
-of it in a philosophical way. But consequent to this doctrine it is
-that we have so large a quantity of this marshland in the middle of
-the eastern shore of England, seeming as if made by the washings and
-_eluvies_ of the many rivers that fall that way, such as the Welland,
-the Witham, the Nen, the Ouse great and little, together with many
-other streams of inferior note. These all empty themselves into the
-great bay formed between the Lincolnshire wolds and cliffs of Norfolk,
-called by Ptolemy _Mentaris æstuarium_, as rightly corrected by Mr.
-Baxter, seeing it is composed of the mouths of so many rivers; _Ment_,
-or _Mant_, signifying _ostium_ in the British language. Beside the
-great quantity of high and inland country that discharges its waters
-this way, even as far as Fritwell in Oxfordshire; all the level
-country lies before it, extending itself from within some few miles of
-Cambridge south, to Keal hills near Bolingbroke in Lincolnshire north,
-about sixty miles long, known by the names of the Isle of Ely, Holland
-and Marshland. This country, since the flood, I believe was much in
-the same state as at present, and for its bulk the richest spot of
-ground in the kingdom; once well inhabited by gentry, especially the
-religious. I apprehend the more inland part of it, the Isle of Ely,
-Deeping Fen, &c. was not in distant ages in so bad a condition as now,
-because the natural drainage of it was better, before the sea had by
-degrees added so much solid ground upon the coasts.
-
-[Sidenote: +Holland+, _its name_.]
-
-In this country I have observed abundance of old Welsh words left among
-us; and I am persuaded that the name of Holland is derived from that
-language, though now terminated by a later word, as is frequent enough.
-It signifies no more than salt or marsh land, such as is gained from
-the sea; and to this day we call the marshes adjoining to, and sometime
-overflowed by the sea, _salt marshes_. Likewise upon the sea shore
-they formerly made salt in great abundance. The hills all along upon
-the sea bank, the remains of such works, are still called salt hills:
-such are at Fleet, Holbech, Gosberton, Wainflet,[3] &c. Many names of
-rivers and roads, thence derived, remain still, such as Salters Lode,
-Salteney Gate, &c. _Hallt_ in the British is _salsus_, salt, as ἅλς
-in the Greek is _mare_, the sea; and most evidently borrowed from the
-British, because of its most notorious quality. The adjoining part of
-this country in Norfolk, is called marsh land, in the very same sense:
-so is Zeland and Holland at the mouth of the Rhine, where our Cimbric
-ancestors once lived. In the Cimbric Chersoness, now Denmark, is
-Halland, a division of the country by the Saxons called _Halgo land_.
-Vid. Spelman’s Glassary, voce _Sciringes heal_. Holsatia, Holstein, &c.
-and our Holderness in Yorkshire, must thus be understood. Hence the
-isle of Ely too is denominated, the very word _heli_ being _salsugo_
-in the British. This, in the most antient British times, was as much
-marsh land as our wapentake of Elho is now, which acknowledges the same
-original; _hoe_ signifying a parcel of high ground.
-
-[Sidenote: _First Inhabitants the_ +Britons+.]
-
-We may be assured that this whole country was well inhabited by the
-antient Britons, and that as far as the sea coasts, especially the
-islets and higher parts more free from ordinary inundations of the
-rivers, or though not imbanked above the reach of the spring tides;
-for the nature of this place perfectly answered their gusto, both as
-affording abundant pasturage for their cattle, wherein their chief
-sustenance and employment consisted, and in being so very secure from
-incursion and depredations of war and troublesome neighbours, by the
-difficult fens upon the edge of the high country. Here I have not been
-able to meet with any remains of them, except it be the great quantity
-of _tumuli_, or barrows, in all these parts; scarce a parish without
-one or more of them. They are generally of a very considerable bulk,
-much too large for Roman; nor has any thing Roman been discovered in
-cutting them through; though, a few years ago, two or three were dug
-quite away near Boston, and another at Frampton, to make brick of, or
-to mend the highways. I guess these were the high places of worship
-among our Cimbrian predecessors, purposely cast up, because there
-are no natural hills in these parts; and we know antiquity affected
-places of elevation for religious rites. No doubt, some are places of
-sepulture, especially such as are very frequent upon the edges of the
-high countries all around, looking down upon the fens. Hither seem to
-have been carried the remains of great men, whose habitations were in
-the marshy grounds, who chose to be buried upon higher ground than
-where they lived; as is the case all over England; for the _tumuli_ are
-commonly placed upon the brink of hills hanging over a valley, where
-doubtless their dwellings were.
-
-[Sidenote: +Romans.+]
-
-[Sidenote: _The_ +Hermen Street.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LVI.]
-
-But when the Romans had made considerable progress in reducing this
-island into the regular form of a province, and began the mighty work
-of laying down the great military ways; then I suppose it was, that
-they cast their eyes upon this fertile and wide-extended plain, and
-projected the draining it. In the reign of Nero, in all probability,
-they made the _Hermen Street_,[4] as now called by a Saxon word
-equivalent to the Latin _via militaris_. That this was the first,
-seems intimated by the name, in that it has retained κατ’ εξοχην, what
-is but a common appellative of such roads. This noble work, taking
-in the whole of it, was intended to be a meridian line running from
-the southern ocean, through London, to the utmost bounds of Scotland.
-This may be inferred from the main of it, which runs directly north
-and south. And another argument of its early date, drawn from three
-remarkable particularities, I have observed in travelling upon it,
-and which show it was begun before that notable people had a thorough
-knowledge of the geography of the island. One is, its deviation
-westward as it advances towards these fens from London: another is,
-the new branch, drawn a little beyond Lincoln westward into Yorkshire,
-out of the principal stem going to the Humber: a third is, that it is
-double in Lincolnshire. Of these I shall speak again when we come to
-the following _Iter Romanum_. Now we will only consider such part of
-it as has relation to the country we are upon; and that is the road
-going from Caster by Peterburgh to Sleford in this county, which is
-undoubtedly Roman, and which first occasioned the draining this fenny
-tract, and surely more antient than that which goes above Stanford, and
-along the heathy part of the county to Lincoln. My reasoning depends
-upon the manner of the road itself, and upon that other great work
-which accompanies it, called the _Cardike_, equally to be ascribed to
-the same authors. This road is nearer the first intention of a meridian
-line than the other: but, when they found it carried them through a low
-country, where it perpetually needed reparation, and that they must
-necessarily decline westward to reach Lincoln, they quitted it, and
-struck out a new one, more westerly, that should run altogether upon
-better ground. This, if we have leave to guess, was done after the time
-of Lollius Urbicus, lieutenant under Antoninus Pius, who with great
-industry and courage had extended and secured the whole province as far
-as Edinburgh. Then it was they had time and opportunity to complete the
-work in the best manner, being perfect masters of the country, and of
-its geography: and this road was for the ready march of their armies
-and provisions to succour those northern frontiers. But it seems as
-if they had long before that time brought the Hermen Street as far as
-Lincolnshire,[5] especially that eastern branch, or original stem, of
-which we are treating, and that as early as the reign of Nero, and
-at the same time made the Cardike. I shall give you my further reasons
-for this conjecture, and nothing more than conjecture can be expected
-in such matters.
-
-[Illustration:42·2ᵈ.
-
- +Bricantiæ Pars+]
-
-[Sidenote: _Old_ +Hermen Street+.]
-
-[Sidenote: _The_ +Cardike+.]
-
-The road which we suppose the original stem of the Hermen Street goes
-in a direct line, and full north and south from Durobrivæ, or Caster,
-to Sleford; and there, for aught I know, it terminates. It is manifest,
-that if it had been carried further in that direction, it would have
-passed below Lincoln heath, and arrive at the river where it is not
-fordable. It parts from the present and real Hermen Street at Upton,
-a mile north of Caster; but this is continued in a strait line, which
-demonstrates that it is the original one: the other goes from it with
-an angular branching. This traverses the river Welland at Westdeeping,
-and is carried in a high bank across the watery meadows of Lolham
-bridges.[6] These are numerous and large arches made upon the road, to
-let the waters pass through, taken notice of by the great Camden as
-of antiquity; and no doubt originally Roman: then it crosses the Glen
-at Catebridge, (whereabouts it is now called King’sgate, _via regia_)
-to Bourn, (where Roman coins are often found, many in possession of
-Jos. Banks, jun. esq.) so to Fokingham and Sleaford. It is now called
-Longdike. All along parallel to this road runs a famous old drain,
-called _Cardike_.[7] Mr. Morton has been very curious in tracing it out
-through his county, Northamptonshire. I am sorry I have not yet had
-opportunity to pursue his laudable example, in finishing the course of
-it through Lincolnshire: but as far as I have observed it, it is marked
-in the map. This is a vast artificial canal drawn north and south upon
-the edge of the fens, from Peterburgh river to Lincoln river, about
-fifty mile long, and by the Romans without all peradventure. It is
-taken notice of by serjeant Callis, our countryman, in his readings
-on the sewers. That wise people, with a greatness of thought peculiar
-to themselves, observed the great use of such a channel, that by
-water carriage should open an inland traffic between their two great
-colonies of Durobrivæ and Lindum, or Lincoln, without going round the
-hazardous voyage of the Estuary: just such was the policy of Corbulo
-in Tacitus, Annal. xi. _Ne tamen miles otium indueret inter Mosam
-Rhenumque trium & viginti millium spatio fossam produxit, qua incerta
-oceani evitarentur._ And lest the soldiery should be idle, he drew a
-dike for the space of three and twenty miles between the Maese and the
-Rhine, whereby the dangers of the ocean are avoided; which is exactly
-a parallel case with ours. Besides, it is plain that by intercepting
-all the little streams coming down from the high country, and naturally
-overflowing our levels, it would much facilitate the draining thereof,
-which at this time they must have had in view. This canal enters
-Lincolnshire at Eastdeeping, proceeding upon an exact level, which it
-takes industriously between the high and low grounds all the way, by
-Langtoft and Baston: passing the river Glen at Highbridge, it runs in
-an uninterrupted course as far as Kyme: beyond that I have not yet
-followed it; but I suppose it meets Lincoln river near Washenburgh, and
-where probably they had a fort to secure the navigation, as upon other
-proper intermediate places, such as Walcot, Garick, Billingborough,
-Waldram-hall, Narborough, Eye antiently Ege, _agger_; and I imagine St.
-Peter’s de Burgo hence owes its original: and a place called Low there,
-a camp ditched about, just where the Cardike begins on one side the
-river: another such fortification at Horsey bridge on the other side
-the river: all these names point out some antient works. It is all the
-way threescore foot broad, having a large flat bank, on both sides,
-for the horses that drew their boats. Roman coins are frequently found
-through its whole length, as you well know, who are possessed of many
-of them of different emperors. Now it seems to me highly probable that
-Catus Decianus, the procurator in Nero’s time, was the projector both
-of this road and this canal, two notable examples in different kinds of
-Roman industry and judgment; and the memorial of the author of so great
-a benefit to the country is handed down to us in several particulars;
-as that of Catesbridge before mentioned upon the road, and of Catwater,
-a stream derived from this artificial channel, at the very place where
-it begins, to the Nen at Dovesdale bar: likewise at Dovesdale bar
-comes in another stream from the north, from a place by Shephey bank,
-called Catscove corner; and this was first hinted to me by our deceased
-friend, the learned and reverend Mr. John Britain, late schoolmaster
-of Holbech: to which we may add Catley, a town near Walcot upon the
-Cardike beyond Kyme; and Catthorp, a village near Stanfield, upon the
-road. We may likewise upon the same grounds conjecture that Lollius
-Urbicus repaired this work; whence it seems that his name, though
-corrupted, is preserved in Lolham bridges; for there is no town of that
-kind near it. Vid. Gale’s _Itinerar._ pag. 28. Lowlsworth upon the
-Hermen Street without Bishops-Gate, in Spittle-Fields. Certainly this
-is a good hint for our imitation, had we a like public spirit. Now this
-road thus accompanying the canal, was of great service to the traders,
-who might have an eye upon their vessels all the while. And even after
-the projection of the other branch which goes to Lincoln upon the
-higher ground, the navigation here was undoubtedly continued in full
-perfection, till the Romans left the island; for such is its advantage
-of situation, that it could never want water, nor ever overflow: that
-stream of Catwater seems to be cut on purpose, at least scoured up, to
-preserve these uses in drawing off the floods of Peterburgh river into
-the Nen, if its proper channel was not sufficient. The meaning of the
-word _Cardike_ is no more than Fendike: we use the word still in this
-country, to signify watery, boggy places: it is of British original.
-
-I doubt not but that the Romans likewise made that other cut, between
-Lincoln river and the Trent, called the Foss: the name seems to
-indicate it, as well as the thing itself; for it is but a consequent of
-the Cardike, and formed on the same idea: so that I suppose it was not
-originally cut, but scoured by Henry I. as Hoveden mentions: then the
-navigation was continued by land from Peterborough quite to York, and
-this was very useful to the Romans in their northern wars. The other
-way they might come from Huntingdon.
-
-The 20th of October, 1726, I traced the Cardike round the out-skirts of
-Sir William Ellys’s park of Nockton: it runs near the site of the old
-priory, whose ruins are just visible: it bounds the park entirely on
-the fen side, and is very perfect thereabouts; the high-country streams
-from Dunston, and others, running along it. We saw where it crossed a
-marshy valley, and reached the opposite high ground in its course to
-Washenburgh. A well of the old priory is well preserved, remarkably
-good water.
-
-That part of the Cardike between Lincoln and the Trent was begun to be
-cleansed by bishop Atwater, but he died before completed. It is highly
-probable that the Romans called our Cardike _Fossa_, which happens to
-be preserved only on that part between Lincoln and the Trent.
-
-The Fossdike in being in Edward the Confessor’s time. Vide Camden,
-_Nottingham_.
-
-Cardike runs close by Thurlby town end.
-
-The marquis of Lindsey gave me an exceeding fair Maximinus; the
-reverse, +GENIO POP. ROM.+ found at Grimsthorp.
-
-Mrs. Tichmus of Stamford told me she once had many Roman coins, from a
-great parcel found at or near Sleford.
-
-The 18th of October, 1728, I travelled on the Roman road, the eastern
-branch of the Hermen Street from Sleford, for about three miles
-southward. I observed that it went not to Sleford town directly, but to
-the old house of Sir Robert Carr’s, formerly Lord Hussey’s (attainted
-for treason in time of Henry VIII.) called Old Place. We saw by the
-way, on the east side the road, a mile or more south of Sleford, an old
-work, square, ditched about, large, with an entry from the road; the
-earth of the vallum thrown on both sides.
-
-[Sidenote: +Sleaford+ Ro. _town_.]
-
-[Sidenote: +Stanfield+ Ro. _town_.]
-
-But it was not enough for the Romans thus to provide for commerce
-and travelling, without they set proper stations or mansions for the
-reception of negociators and the like. Accordingly we find the distance
-between Caster and Lincoln, about 40 miles, has two towns upon it at
-proper intervals for lodging; these are Sleaford and Stanfield: the
-original names of them are in irrecoverable silence, but the eternity
-of the Romans is inherent. At Sleaford they have found many Roman
-coins, especially of the Constantine family and their wives, about the
-castle and the spring-head a little above the town. It is probable that
-Alexander, the bishop of Lincoln, built his work upon the site of a
-Roman citadel. Beside, at Sleaford comes in the other Roman road from
-the fen country by Brig-end causeway, and at the intersection of these
-two roads the old town stood. At Stanfield, which is a little village
-near Burn, they find daily the foundations of buildings, innumerable
-coins and other antiquities, of which yourself and our friend Mr. John
-Hardy have a good quantity. These are chiefly dug up in a close called
-Blackfield, from the extraordinary richness of the ground. It stands
-half a mile off the road upon elevated ground, whence you may see
-Spalding, Boston, and the whole level: it is now only of some note for
-a good chalybeat spring.
-
-I shall rehearse a few things I have noted hereabouts, and then we
-will descend into Holland. The following antient part of the genealogy
-of the inheritors of Brun, or Bourn, contains several antiquities
-hereabouts. The spring-head at Bourn, near the castle belonging to
-them, is remarkable for its largeness and quickness.
-
-
-[8]Duke Oslac, 960, in the time of Edgar, says Ingulfus, p. 67. falsly
- | sirnamed De Wake in the Life of Hereward.
- +------------------
- Goda = Walt. Mant.
- |
-[9]Ralph E. of Hereford, +--------+
- sirnamed Scalre. | |
- | [10]Morcar, Lord of Brun, second son of Algar earl
- +---------+ of Leicester. V. Peck, A. S. iii. f. 28.[11]
- | |
- +---------+---+ +---+
- | | |
- Roger, Lord } Leofric = Edina, great grand-daughter of Oslac. Vita Hereward.
-of Brun 1060. } | Ingulf. p. 67.
- |
- +----------------+
- |
-[12]Hereward the } = Thurfrida, vit. Hereward. This Hereward was the hero of his
- famous outlaw } | time, and did many notable exploits. He was nephew to
- | Brando, abbot of Peterburgh. Vid. Dugdale’s Imbanking.
- +-------+
- |
-Hugh Evermue, lord } = Thurfrida heiress. Ingulph. p. 67.
-of Deping and Brun. } |
- +-----+
- |
-Richard de Rulos = only daughter. Ingulph. anno 1114. and Petr. Blesens.
- |
- +-----------------------------------------+
-Baldwin Fitz-Gilbert, earl of Glomery, founder of } |
-Deping priory, ob. 1171, _Monast. Anglican._ Vol. I. } = Adheldis anno 1138.
-p. 469. Vol. II. p. 23. York’s Heraldry, 191. } |
- |
- +--------------------------------------+-----------------+
- | |
-Hugh de Wac = Emma, daughter and heir of Baldwin earl of Glocester. Rogerus.
- | _Monast. Angl._ Vol. I. p. 462. Vol. II. 236.
- |
-Baldwin lord Wake =
- |
- +-----------------------------------------------------------+
-he founded the abbey of Brun, 1140. He gave the priory of Deeping to Thorney |
-abbey, ob. 1156, and was buried at Thorney abbey. Dugdale’s Baronage. |
- +-------------------------------------------------------------------------+
- | 1 2
-Baldwin, lord Wake and Lydel, in = Alicia = Joscelyn de Styvecle, lord of Great
-Cumberland: he died the 20th of | Styvecle, com. Hunt. Inquisit. 38.
-July, 1224, buried at Harombel, | H. III 2. Vincent ABC, N. 43. p. 891.
-a castle in Gascoign. |
- +-----------------+
- |
-Baldwin lord Wake: = Isabella, daughter and heir of = Beatrix de Vanne, concubine
-he died 1213. | Wil. Bruer lord of Torbay, of Reginald earl
-Dugdale’s Baronage.| son of Henry de Bruer. of Cornwall.
- |
- +----------+
- | 1 2
-Hugh Wake, lord of } = Johanna, heiress of Nicholas }
-Wake, Lydel and } | d’Estotvil lord of Cotingham, who died } = Hugh Bigod
-Brun: he died 1233.} | 1220: she died on St. Ambrose’s day } lord justice
- | 1260. _Mon. Angl._ Vol. II. p. 348. } of England.
- +----------+-------------------+
- | |
-Baldwin, lord of Wake, Brun, } Hugh Wake. Rymer’s Fœd. I. p. 493.
-Lydel and Cotingham, died }
-_prid. non. Feb._ 1281, mentioned } = Elinor, daughter of Sir John Montgomery.
-in Rymer’s _Fœdera_ I. p. 777. } |
- +-------+
- | |
- +---------------------------+ Sir Hugh de Wake, his father, gave him
- | | the manors of Deeping and
- | | Blisworth, Northamptonshire.
- | +-------------------------+
- | | |
-John de Wake: = Johanna St. John lord St. John = Mirabella = Thomas Aspal. |
-he died 4 Ap. | -|- -|- |
- 1304. | +-----------------------------------------+
- | |
- | Sir Tho. Wake, knight = Alice, daughter and coheir of Sir
- | -|- John Pateshul, knight.
- +---------------+-----------+
- | |
-Edmund Plantagenet of = Margaret, Thomas de Wake } = Blanch, daughter of
-Woodstock, earl of Kent, | sister ob. 4 july 1343.} | Henry Plantagenet,
-third son of king Ed. I. | and heir. he founded the | Earl of Lancaster.
- +---------------+ abbey of |
- | Hautemprise, in Yorkshire, then removed it to |
- | Cotingham 1322. The original seal of that +----+
- | abbey is in the hands of John Warburton, esq. |
- | Somerset herald, and was engraven by the John L. Wake, ob. s.p.
- | the Antiquarian society, London.
- +--------------------+
- 2 | 1
-Sir Thomas Holland, one } = Joan the fair { = Wil. Montacute, earl of Salisbury.
-of the founders of the } maid of Kent. { 3
-order of the Garter. } { = Edward the black prince.
-
-
-There were other collateral branches of this family about 1244. such as
-Thomas Wake, who held lands in Stoke and Irthingbure under the abbot
-of Peterburgh. Wydo Wac held half a knight’s fee in Deping, Beresham
-and Stow, of the heirs of Hugh Wake the same year. Hugo Wac, Roger Wac,
-witnesses to a charter 1152. Rymer’s _Fœdera_, I. p. 12. From Sir Tho.
-Wake, that married the daughter of Sir John Pateshul, is descended his
-grace the present archbishop of Canterbury.
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XI.]
-
-Not long since some British instruments of brass called celts,
-arrow-heads, and bits of bridles of the same metal, were found at Aye
-near the Cardike. The 19th of November, 1731, I saw four celts and a
-brass spear-head found at Ege, or Aye: the celts were of the female
-or recipient kind: they were bought by bishop Kennet, and are now in
-the gentlemen’s society at Peterborough. The Druids buried them there,
-when the Romans drove them northward: there has been some great work
-of the Druids there, as I take it. At Jernham was found an old brass
-seal, a man blowing a horn, the legend _John de Sodeburi_, now in the
-hands of Mr. Richards of Stanford. At Edenham was a stone cross now
-demolished: the inscription on it I have inserted in the Plate of
-Crosses: I saw the stump of it remaining not long since: hard by has
-been an old castle at Bitham. Grimsthorp, the pleasant seat of the
-Duke of Ancaster: the park is very large and beautiful; in the middle
-of it stood Vaudy abbey in a vale, founded by Wil. de Albemarle 1147.
-some small ruins of it are left: the lawn there, whereon is an annual
-horse-race, is extremely delightful.[13] In Hakunby church upon a stone
-I read this inscription,
-
- *Iste fuit Rector Thomas de Brunn vocitatus.*
-
-Sempringham abbey founded by St. Gilbert lord of the place, and author
-of the Gilbertin order, where men and women lived together in holy
-community: now an old ruinous seat of the earls of Lincoln.
-
-Trekingham, so called, as some will have it, from a fanciful story of
-three Danish kings there buried: round the font in the church is this
-inscription, + *Ave maria gratia p. d. t.* Upon a tombstone in the
-church-yard this,
-
- HIC INTVMVLATVR JOHANNES
- QVONDAM DN̄S DE TRIKINGHAM.
-
-St. Saviour’s chapel at the end of Brig-end causeway is still left,
-turned into a mansion house, founded by George of Lincoln, endowed
-with lands to maintain the causeway: a legacy highly to be commended.
-At Ranceby near Sleford on a hill, many Roman antiquities found, of
-which an account in Leland’s Itinerar. Hale Parva, Hale Magna, so
-called from the hall or seat of the lord of the manor: in the former
-is Helpringham, which I suppose no more than _Hale parva ingham_, the
-termination being very common in towns hereabouts.
-
-[Sidenote: +Holland+ _imbanked by the_ Romans.]
-
-Having given an account of the preparation made by the Romans towards
-gaining this vast tract of fen-land, the Lincolnshire levels, by
-securing it from the fresh water of the high countries in that noble
-cut called Cardike; we must imagine their next care was to render
-it safe from the flux of the Ocean, by making a great bank all along
-upon the sea coasts: this was done as to the wapentake of Elho by what
-we call the Old Sea-dike, which by the people at this day is said to
-be made by Julius Cæsar and his soldiers; as if they had knowledge
-of its being a Roman work: at the mouths of all the rivers no doubt
-they made gotes and sluices as at present, which was an invention of
-Osiris, the great king of Egypt, as Diodorus Siculus tells us, I. 19.
-We may well suppose it was performed after the time of Lollius Urbicus,
-scarce fully accomplished before: possibly in Severus his time, which
-seems not obscurely hinted at by Herodian, III. _Sed in primis curæ
-habuit pontibus occupare paludes, ut stare in tuto milites possint
-atque in solido præliari. Siquidem Britanniæ pleraque loca frequentibus
-oceani alluvionibus paludescunt. Per eas igitur paludes barbari ipsi
-natant excursantque ad ilia usque demersi._ But he had it in his
-particular care to make passes over the fens, that the soldiers might
-stand firm and fight upon hard ground; for many places in Britain are
-marshy through the frequent overflowings of the ocean, over which the
-inhabitants will swim, and walk though up to the middle in water. To
-which description no place so well corresponds.
-
-That the Romans thoroughly inhabited this fertile plain, the following
-instances will sufficiently evince. About 1713, at Elm near Wisbech, an
-urn full of Roman brass money was taken up, not far from a _tumulus_
-of which the common people have strange notions, affirming that they
-frequently see a light upon it in dark winter nights. Dr. Massey has
-many of the coins; they are of the later empire. There is another piece
-of high ground near it, where have been buildings. Dr. Massey says
-there is a Roman altar in a wall there. At Gedney hill several Roman
-coins have been found; some of Antoninus are in your collection. In the
-same hamlet, about two mile north of Southea bank, is a pasture called
-the High Doles, being a square doubly moted, where ancient foundations
-have been dug up, and some Roman coins. Another like square so moted
-is in the parish of St. Edmund’s, about the same distance from the
-said bank, where the like matters have been discovered. Aswic grange
-in Whaplodedrove parish is a high piece of ground, square and moted
-about: in this and near it many Roman coins have been dug up, and urns,
-which I have seen; some coins in your collection. This is near Catscove
-corner; and it was Mr. Britain’s notion that Catus made this work among
-many others as _castella_ to secure the possession of the country:
-these lie as it were in a line, on the most southerly part of Elho. In
-the parish of Fleet near Ravensclow, about 1698,[14] upon a piece of
-high ground where buildings have been, Mr. Edward Lenton dug up a large
-urn with letters round it, full of Roman coins,[15] about the quantity
-of three pecks, covered with an oak board: the urn he broke in pieces:
-they were of brass piled edgeways, mostly about the time of Gallienus
-and the thirty tyrants as called, Tetricus, Claudius Gothicus,
-Victorinus, Carausius, Alectus, &c. I have seen vast numbers of them,
-and have some by me: many are in your collection. Near this place runs
-a low channel, quite to Fleet haven, which probably then was the chief
-outlet of the waters into the sea. Mr. Lenton found some ship-timber
-upon it with rusty nails, probably of some Roman barge. None of these
-coins were lower than the Tetrici, which proves the imbankation was
-made before their time. In the same latitude, and in the next parish,
-Holbech,[16] in a pasture called Anytofts, in my tenure, is a like
-square of high ground, where rubbish of buildings and coins have been
-found; it is moted likewise: not long since a labourer, scouring up a
-pit in the mote, took up an urn now in my possession. At Giggleshurn,
-in casting up a ditch, were many Roman coins found: we may reasonably
-conjecture Moulton hall was such another place originally: and in a
-Held not far from thence, called Woods, near Ravens-bank, three mile
-south of Moulton church, upon plowing, several Roman urns and vessels
-were found, of fine white and red earth; some of them were brought to
-Mr. Hardy. At Spalding, Roman antiquities have been found, particularly
-cisterns; of which some accounts in the Acts of the Royal Soc. Nᵒ 279.
-and there was a Roman castle there, as I conjecture, on the north side
-of the town, not far from the river on the right hand of the great road
-to Bolton, the square form of the ditch yet remaining. These places,
-with some other of like nature, make another line of fortresses through
-the middle of the country, parallel to the present towns. I have been
-told that at Theophilus Grant’s house in Whaplode, near Gorham’s holt,
-aqueducts of clay, one let into another, have been dug up;[17] and
-that in the seadike bank, between Fleet and Gedney, a brass sword was
-lately found, which seem to be Roman. Thus far in South Holland. At
-Boston, about 1716, they dug up an old Roman foundation beyond the
-school-house: near it some hewn stones formed a cavity, in which was
-an urn with ashes, another little pot with an ear, and an iron key of
-an odd figure, in my possession. Some time before then, in Mr. Brown’s
-garden at the Green poles, they dug up an urn lined with thin lead full
-of red earth and bones. A like one I have seen now in Sir Hans Sloan’s
-museum, unquestionably Roman.
-
-[Sidenote: +Roman+ _roads there_.]
-
-As the Romans had thus intirely taken in and inhabited the country, no
-doubt but according to their custom they drew several roads across it:
-but I fear it will be very difficult to give an exact account of them:
-such is the nature of the ground, having no solid materials, that they
-would be presently wore away without more constant reparations than the
-inhabitants practise: yet I have little doubt in supposing one of their
-ways was drawn from the northern high country about Bolingbroke by
-Stickford, Stickney, Sibsey, and so to Boston river about Redstonegote,
-where it passed it by a ferry. I have fancied to myself that several
-parcels of it are plainly Roman, by the straitness and by the gravelly
-bottom: from thence to Kirkton it is indubitably so, being laid with a
-very large bed of gravel: and just a mile from the river is a stone,
-now called the Mile-stone, standing in a _quadrivium_; it is a large
-round stone like the _frustum_ of a pillar, and very properly a _lapis
-milliaris_. From Kirkton I imagine the road went to Donington, where
-it met the great and principal road of the country, which is drawn
-from Ely to Sleaford in a line not much different from a strait one.
-It is certain that there is such a road from Grantchester, which was a
-Roman town a mile above Cambridge, to Ely by Stretham: thence another
-goes across the depth of the fens by Upwell and Elme towards Wisbech;
-and it was near this road that the urn with coins first mentioned
-was found: and anno 1730 a Roman urn full of coins was found at the
-same place; they were of silver, and very fair. Mr. Beaupre Bell, a
-curious gentleman, has many Roman coins found near this Roman road by
-Emney; several of Carausius undescribed. Wisbech probably was a Roman
-station, and their castle founded upon an older foundation. I suppose
-this road passed over Wisbech river above the town towards Guyhurn
-chapel, then went to Trokenholt and Clowscross, there entering our
-country: from thence that it went in a strait line to Spalding, by
-which means most of those square forts we have mentioned in Elho, where
-Roman antiquities were discovered, together with most of the southern
-hamlets, will be found to be situate near or upon it; such as St.
-Edmund’s chapel, the moted place there, Gedneyhill chapel, Highdoles
-there, Holbech chapel, Whaplodedrove chapel, Aswic grange, St.
-Katherine’s, and Moulton chapel: whether any traces of it can now be
-found or no, I cannot say; but the villages thereabouts seem strongly
-to favour the conjecture. Supposing it fact, I should not be surprised
-if it now be laid perfectly level with the surface of this fenny soil,
-seeing I have observed the like appearance of a Roman road when carried
-across a meadow in the high countries, and which was composed of a bed
-of gravel 100 foot broad, particularly at the Roman city of Alauna by
-Bicester, of which I shall in a following page give an account: and
-this of ours I suppose only made of the earth of the country thrown
-into a bank, because it was impossible to get more durable materials.
-
-From Spalding, according to my sentiments, this road went towards
-Herring bridge (the word retaining some semblance of antiquity) upon
-Surflet river, so along the division between the wapentakes of Kirton
-and Aveland, near Wrigbolt and Cressy-hall, to the end of Brig-end
-causeway at Donington. Here, Holland brig or Brig-end causeway has all
-the requisites that can ascertain it to be a Roman work, being strait
-and laid with a solid bed of stone: the present indeed is repaired
-every year, but we have much reason to think the first projection of it
-through this broad morass was no less than Roman. From thence it went
-to Sleford; then it seems to have gone across the heath, and to have
-fallen in with the great Hermen street at a remarkable place called
-Biard’s leap: from thence possibly it was carried, or was designed to
-be, by Stretleythorp and Brentbroughton over the Witham to Crocolana
-upon the foss-way; then over the Trent into Nottinghamshire, where
-it answers in a line with the road to Tuxford and Worksop; and so on
-perhaps to the Irish sea, whereby it would become a great parallel
-to the Watling street running across the kingdom, as it does, from
-south-east to north-west. At Sleaford I am inclinable to think another
-road came from Banovallum, or Horn castle, to the east of the river
-Bane southward by les Yates, and so crossed the Witham by Chapelhill
-and the Cardike somewhere about Kyme: or else crossed the Witham at the
-Hermitage, so went by Swinshed north end to Donington: this principal
-road we speak of on the other end seems to go from Ely by Soham and
-Bury to the German ocean. I am not ashamed to offer my conjecture to
-the curious, however slender its foundation may be, if only as a hint
-for a future search: but it seems to me very probable, that if it
-was not fully executed by the Romans, they intended it, and have in
-part manifestly done it. I conceit it crosses the Icening street at
-Ikesworth near Bury, then goes to Bretenham, the Combretonium; but with
-that country of Suffolk I am at present perfectly unacquainted. Return
-we to Holland.
-
-Besides this great road, I think we need not scruple to assert that
-now called Ravensbank to be another, going east and west, through the
-heart of the country, from Tid St. Mary’s to Cowbit. I have rode some
-miles upon it, where it is now extremely strait and broad. We have been
-informed that it is actually in some old writings called Romans Bank:
-it is well known the Welsh pronounced Roman _Rhuffain_, and our English
-word _ruffian_ is from this fountain. Among the Welsh the letters _m_
-and _v_ are equivalent, to which _f_ is perfectly alike: _maur_ and
-_vaur_ is great, and many more: so that _Roman_, _raven_, and _ruffen_,
-is the same word; and hence no doubt came _rambling_, _roving_, and
-_roming_, as an ignominious appellative of such as thought every
-country better than their own; for such to our ancestors seemed the
-Romans, that scarce left any corner of the known world impervious to
-their all-conquering eagles, carrying arts and arms along with them as
-an impetuous torrent, with a most glorious and invincible perseverance.
-Further, it is not unlikely that the upper road running east and west
-nearer the sea bank, now called Old Spalding gate, is originally Roman:
-in some places, as about Fleet, it retains the name of Haregate, which
-is equivalent to _via militaris_ when spoken by our Saxon progenitors.
-Thus the main road and these two lesser ones seem sufficiently to
-answer this purpose as to Elho: it seems to me, that when the Romans
-made the many forts all along the eastern shore, to guard against the
-Saxons, that this bay was provided for by five, two upon the edges of
-the high country, and three upon the rivers; Brancaster in Norfolk,
-Burgh on Lincolnshire side; Wisbech,[18] Spalding, and Boston, upon
-each river of the fenny tract.
-
-[Sidenote: _Antediluvian trees._]
-
-Having given you then all the authentic or conjectural memoirs that
-have in general occurred to my reflection upon the most ancient state
-of this country, I shall proceed to other particularities, nearer
-our own times, through every parish; only first take notice in short
-of a wonderful appearance in nature all over this country, and which
-is common to all such like upon the globe, as far as my informations
-reach: that is, the infinite quantities of subterraneous trees, lying
-three or four foot deep, of vast bulk and different species, chiefly
-fir and oak, exceeding hard, heavy and black: many times the branches
-reach so near day as to break their ploughs, for so I have heard
-them complain about Crowland: about Kyme and Billingay they have dug
-up some boats or canoos made of hollowed trunks of trees.[19] Many
-people will think that this is nothing but the effect of particular
-floods, and that this country was once a forest, and not long since
-disafforested. This country was once taken into the forest of Kesteven
-by the Norman kings, (as you have told me) only with a political view
-of extending their power, and disafforested soon after at the instance
-of the prior of Spalding: yet it is true of Nassaburg hundred only,
-in Northamptonshire. But in my apprehension, as to the matter before
-us, such confine their notions to very scanty bounds: an universal
-phænomenon requires a more dilated solution, and no less than that of
-the Noachian deluge. But upon this I hope for an occasion to be more
-copious another time: at present I remember a passage in Pausanias’s
-_Attics_ toward the end; speaking of an ebeny statue of Archigetes, “I
-have heard, (says he) from a man of Cyprus very skilful in medicinal
-herbs, that ebeny bears no leaves, no fruit, nor has it any stock
-exposed to the sun, only roots in the earth, which the Ethiopians dig
-up. Some of them are particularly skilful in finding them out.” I doubt
-not but our author speaks of subterranean trees, and that our people
-might use this timber to better use than burning it.
-
-Most writers, and particularly Mr. Camden, and most strangers, have an
-injurious opinion of this country, and apply that to the whole which
-is true but of part of it: for in the main the land is admirably good,
-hard, and dry; produces excellent corn and grass; feeds innumerable
-sheep and oxen of a very large size, and good flesh and wool; bears
-wood extremely well, has several large woods in it, some intirely of
-oak of considerable size; is full of hedge-rows and quicksets, and
-in summer time looks like the garden of Eden: it is level, and most
-delightful to travellers, whether on horseback, or in a coach. The air
-indeed is moist, as being near the sea, and bordering upon the fens
-of the isle of Ely: as to the first, it is the same upon every sea
-coast; as to the latter, they are chiefly on the south side, whence
-the sun for the most part draws off the vapours from this country.
-Indeed this inconvenience accrues from such vicinity, the production
-of gnats; to which Angelus Politianus has done so much honour in that
-beautiful Greek epigram you showed me; and is well guarded against
-by the gentry in the use of netted canopies hung round their beds,
-which was an invention of the Ægyptians living in a like country.
-Vide Brown’s Garden of Cyrus, p. 30. But all things necessary for the
-comfort of life are here in great plenty; and visitants ever go away
-with a better opinion of it than they bring. That great soul king
-Charles I. himself undertaking the glorious talk, and others under
-him, had projected and made such stately works of _sewers_, as would
-have rendered this country before now, for trade and beauty, the rival
-of its name-sake beyond sea; but the licentious times that succeeded,
-gave the unthinking mob (incited by his avowed adversary in all things,
-Cromwell) an opportunity to destroy them. I have often considered and
-admired the length, breadth, and depth of their canals, the vastness of
-their gotes and sluices: indeed I think they made many more than were
-useful, and might have laid out the whole in a better manner. I would
-not, like the Trojan Prophetess, prognosticate ill to my own country;
-but it is not difficult to foresee, that unless some project be taken
-in hand, like that which my friend Mr. Kinderley published some time
-ago, this vast and rich tract must be abandoned to eels and wild ducks.
-A thing of this nature is not to be done but by the senate of the
-kingdom taking the matter intirely into their own hands; and if I have
-any judgement, whatever new works are made, ought always to be carried
-eastward only, for reasons I inculcated before: therefore, instead of
-deriving the Welland into the Witham, as was his notion, I would have
-it brought to the Nen, and both into the Ouse at Lynn, as it was in its
-original and natural state.
-
-Since the time of the Romans, beyond their first bank have been many
-intakes, by successive banks, of the best ground in the world left by
-the sea, which contracts its own limits by throwing up banks of sand
-out of the estuary: so that, from time to time, the land-owners upon
-these frontiers gain several thousands of acres. It is observed, the
-land so imbanked is ever higher in level than that left behind it;
-and I doubt not but some time the whole bay between Lincolnshire and
-Norfolk (being one of our great sovereign’s noblest chambers in his
-British dominions over the sea, vide Seld. _Mar. claus._) will become
-dry land. By this means the parishes hereabouts increase to a huge
-bulk. Holbech from Dovesdale bar, where it joins to Cambridgeshire,
-to the limits of the salt marshes, is near twenty miles long. The
-cattle bred on this ground are very large; the sheep never have horns.
-Smithfield market, as now much supported, was chiefly set up by the
-inhabitants here, as I have been told, particularly by Mr. William
-Hobson, brother to the famous Cambridge carrier, and Mr. Cust; the
-London butchers, before then, commonly going into the country to buy
-cattle.
-
-In every parish formerly were many chapels, it being impracticable
-for people to come so far to one church, though now most of them
-are demolished, at what time I cannot imagine. No part of England
-boasts of so many beautiful churches, having generally lofty spires
-of fine squared stone, fetched from Barneck pits, which are a coarse
-rag full of petrified shells of all kinds of small fish, and not, as
-some think, from Norway. And in no very distant times, not a parish
-without great numbers of gentry, lords, knights, and great families,
-who made a figure in the world: now scarce any remains of them, but
-the site of their houses moted round, their tombs in the churches,
-their arms in the painted windows, where they have by chance escaped
-the fury of fanatic zeal. Many religious houses formerly there; and
-nearly the whole country was got into their hands, as appears by the
-old terriers, or town-books. The only houses of note are at present
-Dunton hall, in Tyd St. Mary’s parish, lately rebuilt magnificently
-by Sigismund Trafford, esq. who has likewise inclosed a considerable
-park with a brick wall; and Cressy hall in Surflet parish, the seat
-of Henry Heron, esq. in which the lady Margaret, mother to Hen. VII.
-was once entertained. The house was handsomely rebuilt by the present
-possessor’s father, Sir Henry Heron, knight of the Bath; but the chapel
-is old, built, or licensed at least, anno 1309, as an inscription over
-the door tells us. In it is an old brass eagle with an inscription
-round it.[20]
-
-Formerly, there is reason to suppose, the gentry had many parks
-near their seats. Records in your possession show that the prior of
-Spalding, about 1265, compelled Thomas lord Moulton to compound with
-him for the venison in his park at Moulton; and in Holbech, about a
-mile south of the church, are lands in my tenure, called the Park. That
-fish and fowl is here plentiful, no one will wonder; but particularly
-the pigeons are noted for large and fine.
-
-[Sidenote: _Decoys._]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. II.]
-
-In the out-skirts of it are great numbers of decoys, places so called
-where they take an incredible quantity of wild ducks,[21] mostly sent
-up to London: they are large pits dug in the fens, with five canals
-shooting from them, each ending in a point after one angle made, well
-planted with willows, fallows, osiers, and such underwood. I have given
-a drawing of one. The method of catching fowl in short is this: the
-decoy-man coming down to the angle of the pipe, or canal, which is
-covered with nets and over-shadowed with trees, peeps through the holes
-in the reedy sheds, disposed like the scenes at the play-house, and
-joined by the others with holes at the bottom, about as high as a man’s
-breast: when he sees a sufficient quantity of wild ducks in the mouth
-of the great pond, by whistling softly, the tame ducks wing-stocked,
-and brought up for that purpose, swim into the pipe covered with the
-nets, to feed upon the corn he throws over the sheds into the water:
-this tempts the wild ducks in to partake of the bait: in the mean time
-a dog they teach runs round the half-sheds, in and out at the holes in
-the bottom, which amuses the fowl so that they apprehend no danger:
-when he has brought them far enough into the pipe, stooping he goes
-along the scenes, till he is got beyond the ducks, and rising up shows
-himself at the half-scenes, which frightens the wild ducks only, the
-opposite way into the narrow end of the pipe, which terminates in a
-fatal net: and all this is done without any noise or knowledge of the
-rest of the wild ducks in the great pond; so that the decoy-man having
-dispatched one pipe, goes round to execute the same game at all the
-rest, whereby infinite quantities are catched in a year’s time at one
-of these places only.
-
-[Illustration: 2 _The Form of the Decoys in Lincolnshire._
-
- _Richardo M. Masfey M.D.
- tabulam d.d. Wˢ. Stukeley_]
-
-[Sidenote: _The_ +Washes+.]
-
-In running over what few remarkables I have observed in this country, I
-shall exclude Marsh-land, because in Norfolk, observing only that their
-churches are very beautiful, numerous, large, and stately; that here
-are, too, many such of the _tumuli_. You will indulge me the liberty
-of giving the etymology of places all along: Cicero likes that method;
-_Acad. Quæst._ 1. 8. _verborum explicatio probatur_, i. e. _qua de
-causa quæque essent ita nominata quam etymologiam appellabant_: and
-though there be often more of pleasant subtlety than reality in such
-matters, yet it serves to find out and preserve some old words in a
-language that otherwise are in danger of oblivion. I shall begin with
-the Washes so much talked of, and so terrible to strangers, though
-without much reason; if they take a guide, which is highly adviseable.
-The meaning is this: they are the mouths of the river Welland, called
-Fossdike Wash, and the river Ouse, called Cross-Keys Wash, running into
-the sea, and inclosing this country almost round. _Wase Sax. lutum,
-oose._ Twice in a day, six hours each time during the recess of the
-tide, they are fordable and easy to be passed over: the intermediate
-six hours they are covered with the flux of the ocean. Mr. Merret, of
-Boston, son to Dr. Merret, has given a table in the Philos. Trans.
-which I improved for the benefit of travellers, and is graven on a
-handsome copperplate by my friend, Mr. John Redman: but I would have
-passengers not to trust too far to the minutes in the table, because
-at some times of the year the tides will anticipate a few minutes,
-at others will be retarded, and at all times (not to say any thing
-of the difference of clocks and watches) south-east winds make the
-tides flow earlier than ordinary, north-west protract them; so that a
-wise traveller, in this and all other cases, will take time and tide
-by the forelock. Formerly people travelled what they call the Long
-Wash, between Lynn and Boston, intirely upon the sands or skirts of
-the ocean, but now quite disused and impracticable: there it was, that
-king John lost all his carriages among the creeks and quicksands. The
-memory of it is retained to this day, by the corner of a bank between
-Cross-Keys Wash and Lynn, called now King’s Corner.
-
-[Sidenote: +Lutton.+]
-
-[Sidenote: +Sutton.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XI.]
-
-In Lutton was born the famous Dr. Busby, master of Westminster school,
-who has beautified the church, and founded a school there: he owes his
-education to the Welbys, an ancient family in this country. I suppose
-the town has its name from the general drainage of the country, which
-was here in one channel united: they call such Lades, or Lodes, to this
-day: this probably is as ancient as any town in Holland. South from
-it (and therefore) Sutton church is of an ancient make, especially
-the stone work of the steeple: the upper part of the church has been
-built of brick in the memory of man. John of Gaunt owned Sutton, and
-other vast manors and townships in this country. At Tyd St. Giles,
-Nicholas Breakspear was curate, who afterwards became pope Adrian IV.
-St. James’s chapel is built of a large sort of brick, such as I have
-seen no where else; not Roman. Near it is Ivy-Cross, of stone, in a
-_quadrivium_; a curious piece, upon Ravensbank.
-
-[Sidenote: +Gedney.+]
-
-Gedney church is very beautiful, built, I believe, chiefly by the
-abbots of Croyland, who had a house, no doubt, very stately, on the
-north side of the church, and large possessions in the parish: the
-upper part of the tower is of the same date with the church, built
-upon older work; probably both the work of the abbots, together with
-contributions of the rich families that formerly lived here. In the
-chancel window a religious in his habit. There is an old monument of
-the Welbys, and upon the south door is this inscription:
-
- *PAX XPISIT HUIC DOMUI
- ET OMNIBUS HABITANTIBUS
- IN EA HIC REQUIES NOSTRA.*
-
-The town seems to be derived from _Gaden-ea, aqua ad viam_: _Ea_ is a
-watering place properly for cattle, and roads we still call gates in
-this country.
-
-[Sidenote: +Fleet.+]
-
-The next parish, Fleet, from the Anglo-Saxonic _Fleot_, _æstuarium_,
-_fluxus_, still called Fleet-Haven, is remarkable for the steeple
-standing at a distance from the church: from this place the family of
-the Fletes come, who have made a considerable figure in the country
-ever since we have any written memorials.
-
-[Sidenote: +Holbech.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XXI.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. I. 2d Vol.]
-
-Holbech (the Salt-Beech) church is very large, and well built, a
-strong tower and lofty steeple, dedicate to all saints: formerly there
-were organs and fine painted glass, with many coats of arms, but none
-left except the Holbeches: Vert, six escallops argent, three, two,
-one. There is a fine monument of the Littleburys, an ancient and
-flourishing family in these parts: upon his shield is his coat, Argent,
-two lions passant gardant gules: there is a brass inscription of a
-lady of the Welby family, wife to Sir Richard Leake, knight. *Orate
-pro anima Johanne Welby quondam filiae Richardi Leake militis nuper
-uxoris Littlebury que obiit xviii die mensis decembris anno domini
-mccclxxxviii. cujus anime propitietur deus Amen.* Here was born
-Henry Rands, alias de Holbech, bishop of Lincoln, who was one of the
-compilers of the Liturgy: here formerly flourished the ancient families
-of Fleet, Dacres, Harrington, Barrington, Welby, Multon.
-
-In the year 1696, in digging at Mr. Adlard Stukeley’s gardens, they
-found an old brass seal, which I gave to Sir Hans Sloan; a man in
-long robes, with two escutcheons, on one three cocks, on the other
-a portcullis; the legend, + +SOVRABLA DEUS OLER+. In the year 1698,
-an iron spur with a very long shank was found: in my possession. A
-remarkable rarity in nature I met withal, an admirable ossification in
-the _omentum_ of a sheep, white and solid as ivory. Mr. Cheselden has
-printed a cut of it in the second edition of his Anatomy. I gave it to
-Dr. Mead.
-
-From the ancient churchwardens’ accounts, before the time of the
-Reformation, from anno 1453, many curious remarks may be made, in
-relation to prices of things, wages, superstitious customs, old
-families, and the like: a specimen whereof I have here annexed.
-
-
-_ss._ _A Boake of the Stuffe in the Cheyrche of_ Holbeche _sowld by
- Chyrchewardyns of the same according to the injunctyons of the
- Kynges Magyste._
-
- _s._ _d._
- An. dni. M. ccccc. xlviiᵒ. First to Antony
- Heydon the trynite with the tabernacle ii. iiii.
-
- It. to Wm. Calow thelder the tabernacle of
- Nicholas and Jamys vi. viii.
-
-[Illustration: 21 Ecclesiam de HOLBECH _in Agro_ Linc. Lucio _Henrico_
- _Hibbins Arm. d.d. W. Stukeley_ 1722
-
- _Stukeley delin._ _I. Harris sculp_]
-
-[Illustration: _1·2ᵈ._
-
- Littlebury in Holbech Church]
-
- _s._ _d._
- It. to Wm. Davy on tabernacle of our lady of pytye iiii.
- It. to Wm. Calow the younger on other tabernacle of our
- lady iii. vi.
- It. to Antony Heydon the ymage of the Antony xx.
- It. to Humphry Hornesey on sygne vi.
- It. to Antony Heydon on other synge and a lytyl tabernacle xx.
- It. to Wm. Calow the younger the tabernacle of Thomas
- Bekete iiii. viii.
- It. to Wm. Davy the sygne whereon the plowghe did stond xvi.
- It. to John Thorpe a chyst in St. Jamys chapell ii.
- It. to Lincone howld woode iiii.
- It. to Nicholas Foster the banke that the George stoode on iiii.
- It. to Antony Heydon ij alters ii. viii.
- It. to Wm. Stowe ij lytyll tabernacles viii.
- It. to Henry Elman on lytyll tabernacle ii.
- It. to John Thorpe for Harod’s coate xviii.
- It. to Wm. Calow the younger all thapostyls coats and other
- raggs viii. iiii.
- It. to Henry Elman for vii baner clothes ix. iiii.
- It. to Antony Heydon on blewe clothe ix.
- It. to Smithes on pece of howlde saye iii.
- It. to Richerd Richerson the crosse and other gydys ii. iii.
- It. to Mr. Byllysby ij tablys iiii. iiii.
- It. to Antony Heydon for the coats of the iij kyngs of
- Coloyne v. iiii.
- It. to Humphry Hornesey the canypye that was born over the
- sacrament xx.
- It. to Wm. Calow thelder and John Thorpe iiij owlde pantyd
- clothes vi. viii.
- It. to Antony Heydon on wood candlestyke iiii.
- It. to Wm. Calow the younger on lytyll bell vi.
- It. to Antony Heydon on other lytyll bell vi.
- It. to Wm. Davy for the tabernacles that stode at the end
- of the hy alter viii.
- _l._ _s._ _d._
- _Sm._ iiii. ii. iiii.
-
-
- _A. D._ m. ccccc xlvii.
-
- It. to Wm. Calow the younger on rod of iyron iiii.
- It. to Robt. Gyffon for ij barrs of iyron v.
- It. to Antony Heydon xx score and x hund. of latyn at ii_s._
- and xi _d._ the score lxix. xi. ob.
- It. to Richerd Richerson ij lytyll tabernacles viii.
- It. of John Suger for the chyrche lond ii. viii.
- It. of the burial of Mr. Byllysby iii. iiii.
- It. of John Mays wyffe for the Dracon iii.
- It. of Alys Boyds debt to xps corpys gilde ii.
- It. for on bell _l._ xviii. ii.
- It. for seyten vestments and trashe in the chest in trinete
- quere sold to Davy xxxiii. iiii.
- It. of Wm. Burnit for pilows xvi.
- It. of Wm. Calow the younger for eyrne xx.
-
- _l._ _s._ _d._
- _Sm. totalis_ xxviii. iiii. iiii. ob.
-
-More superstitious ornaments of the church were sold in queen
-Elizabeth’s time, 1560.
-
- From this book I extracted the following catalogue of the Ministers
- of the parish.
-
- John Clerk chaplain. Anno 1450.
- John Risceby vicar. 1460.
- Thomas George chaplain then.
- Robert Jelow. 1469.
- William Greyborn vicarius perpetuus. 1474.
- Sir John Welby priest.
- Sir John Lyard perpetual vicar. obiit 1496.
- Baxter. 1508.
- Ds. Neel capellanus.
- Richard Wytte. 1520.
- Sir John Scapull. ob. 1524.
- Sir Robert Manning. 1550.
- Sir Thomas West. 1561.
- Thomas Gybson precher.
- Othoneel Bradbury. 1600.
- Matthew Clarke vicar of Holbech. 1610.
- Henry Williamson. 1630.
- John Grante. 1633.
- John Bellenden. 1640.
- John Pymlowe. 1647.
- John Pymlowe. 1687.
- George Arnett. 1720.[22]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB II. 2d Vol.]
-
-In 1529, a new organ cost 3l. 6s. 8d. The organ in the church was
-taken down 1568. Anno 1453, Wm. Enot, of Lynn, epi. and Henry Nele of
-Holbech, gave the saints bell. Another guild of St. Thomas; another
-of our Lady. The vestry on the south side of the choir was taken
-down 1567. There was formerly a chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary
-at Holbech hurn, near the ancient seat of the Littleburys; standing
-1515: another chapel thereabouts, dedicated to St. Nicholas: another
-in Wignal’s gate, near Holbech hall, by the river side, dedicated to
-St. Peter. About 1719, I saw many corpses dug up in the yard at making
-a ditch there. Another in the fen ends. An ancient guild of Corpus
-Christi stood near Barney pit, where is now a house once belonging to
-Moses Stukeley, who owned the estate thereof. An hospital founded by
-John de Kirkton, in his own messuage, by licence of king Ed. III dat.
-Nov. 16, for a warden, chaplain, and fifteen poor people: he endowed it
-with several lands in Holbech, which he held of the abbot of Croyland,
-who by licence permitted the same to be annexed to this hospital of All
-Saints in Holbech, for which he paid 20l. This stood, as I imagine,
-where now is the Chequer inn, over against the church. I remember the
-old stone-work arched doors and windows with mullions, pulled down when
-rebuilt by my father, and many of the carved stones were laid in the
-foundation of the houses he built by the river side at the bridge. See
-Dugdale’s _Monasticon_. A free-school was founded here, about 1669, by
-George Farmer, esq. who endowed it with lands, which with others since
-given are now worth about 50l. per annum; which I am bound in gratitude
-not to forget. A. D. 1699, there were belonging to the fifty-four
-bounds of this parish, paying rates, acres 6234; in the marsh, acres
-6532; and since added for the last intake, acres 170. The old cross in
-the market-place was pulled down 1683. 1253, Thomas de Multon, lord
-Egremont, obtained a market and fair to Holbech, 31 Oct. 37 Hen. III.
-at Windsor, and probably built that cross.
-
-[Illustration: _2·2ᵈ._
-
- _Holbech Cross Lincolnshire_
-
- _Ob amorem erga Solum Natale, Temporum Ignorantia direptam restituit
- Wˢ. Stukeley 1722_]
-
-[Sidenote: +Whaplode.+]
-
-Quaplode, called anciently Capellade, i. e. _Capella ad Ladam s.
-fluvium_, has a very ancient church, founded by the abbots of Croyland:
-the tower stands on the south side. In the upper and south windows
-are these coats of arms. Barry of six azure and argent; Azure, a bend
-gules, charged with three roses argent; Argent, two lions passant
-gardant gules, _Littlebury_. In the east window of the north chapel,
-_Littlebury_, and Or, a fesse between two chevronels gules; and Sable,
-a fret argent, _Harrington_: Azure, on a bend gules, three roses
-argent, as before. I have a copy of the foundation of this church. Here
-is a large monument of the Irbys.
-
-
- GENEALOGY of MOULTON.
-
-Thomas de Multon, lord Egremont, and lord of Holbech, obtained a market
-for Fleet, 9 Jo. |
- +--------------------------------------------------+
-Robert Romley, = daughter of Wm. Meschines, lord of Coupland. |
- | |
- +---+ |
- | |
-Wm. Duncanson = Alice, heiress. Hugh de Morvile, lord of Burgh upon Sands, |
- | chief forester of Cumberland. |
- +--+ | |
- | +-----------------+ |
- | | +-------------------------------+
- | | |
- 1 2
-Richard de Lucy} = Ada, coheiress = Thomas de Multon obtained a market and
- lord Egremont} | | fair for Holbech, 37 Hen. III.
- +-----------+ +--------------+--------------------+
- | | |
-Amabilis, heiress = Lambert de Multon, 1270. Thomas de Multon, lord of
- | | Burgh, in Cumberland.
- +-------------+ +------+
- | |
-Thomas de Multon, 31 Ed. I. 1303. Thomas de Multon} { Maud de Vaulx,
- | lord of Burgh, } = { heiress of Gillesland,
- | 20 Ed. I. } | { daughter of Hubert
- | | de Vaulx.
-Thomas de Multon, lord Egremont. |
- | |
-Thomas de Multon, lord } { daughter of Rich. de |
- Egremont, ob. 15 Ed. II.} = { Burgh, earl of Ulton. |
- | |
- +----------------+ +-----------------+
- | |
-John de Multon, lord Egremont, Thomas de Multon, lord of }
- ob. s. p. 9 Ed. III. Burgh, Gillesland and Holbech, } = Isabel.
- 21 Ed. I. and 2 Ed. II. } |
- _Inquisit. post mortem._ |
- +--------------------------------+
-Ranulf de Dacre, lord of } |
- Drumbough castle } = Margaret, heiress. Maud, says Camden.
- |
- +----------------------+
- |
-Thomas Dacre, esq. lord }
- of Holbech, 1450. } = Philippa, ob. 1453.
- |
- Humphry Dacre, esq.
- |
- Sir Ralf de Dacre, lord of Holbech, 1470.
-
-
-[Sidenote: +Moulton.+]
-
-Moulton, or Multon, probably has its name from a mill, which anciently,
-perhaps, were not so common as now. There is a good church, and very
-fine spire; as also a good free-school of near 100l. per ann. value in
-lands. Moulton hall, whose last ruins I have seen, was the seat of
-Thomas de Multon, lord Egremont, a great man in these parts. His hand
-is among the barons at _Magna Charta_. Between these two parishes,
-in a green lane northwards, stands a little stone called Elho stone,
-whence the name of this hundred is derived: it is about the middle
-thereof, and was formerly the main road across the country, now called
-Old Spalding Gate. Old men tell us, here was kept in ancient times an
-annual court; I suppose a convention, _sub dio_, of the adjacent parts,
-to treat of their general affairs. A wood hard by is called Elhostone
-wood.
-
-[Sidenote: +Weston.+]
-
-Weston, because west from the last town. Here is the stately chapel of
-Wykeham, the villa of the rich priors of Spalding, built by Clement de
-Hatfield, prior, who died anno 1318. In 1051, Spalding priory made by
-Thorold, sheriff of Lincoln, out of his own manor-house. Many places
-near the old sea-bank are called _hurns_, signifying an angle. Here
-is a little leam called the Wik: Mr. Camden, in _Bucks_, says it
-signifies the winding of a river, as Cowhurn hard by.
-
-[Sidenote: +Spalding.+]
-
-Spalding has been famous for its ancient and rich priory founded before
-the Conquest, and for the residence of Ivo Tailbois, the lord of this
-country, by gift of William the Conqueror, the site of whose castle is
-on the north-east part of the town. The town-hall was built by William
-Hobson. But of this place we expect from you, sir, a more particular
-account.
-
-[Sidenote: +Pynchbek.+]
-
-In Pynchbek church-windows are the arms of Ogle, of Fleet; Argent,
-on two bars sable, six escallops of the first, empaled with _De la
-Launde_. Pyncebeck seems to come from the Cimbrian _pinken_, _lucere_,
-from the clearness of its water.
-
-[Sidenote: +Donington.+]
-
-Many towns, on both sides Deeping Fen, end in _ington_, _ingham_, as
-lying upon the Mead. Donington is very hilly, full of elevations or
-dunes. Thomas Cowley, esq. of Donington, who died about 1718, left
-all his estate, which was considerable, to the poor of every parish
-where it lay, whereof 400l. per ann. to Donington, where he built a
-school-house, and endowed it.
-
-[Sidenote: +Algarkirk.+]
-
-Algarkirk has a fine church, in which are some water-bougets carved
-on the oak seats in escutcheons. They say here lived the famous count
-Algar,[23] commander of the Holland men in many battles against the
-Danes, of whom they show an image in stone in the church-yard. I found
-there this inscription,
-
- _Sis testis Xpe, quod non jacet hic lapis iste
- Quisquis es si transeas sta perlege plora
- Corpus ut ornetur sit lapis ut memoretur.
- Sum quod eris fueramque quod es pro me precor ora._
-
-[Sidenote: +Wiberton.+]
-
-Wiberton, they say, has its name from Guibertus, a great man here
-formerly. There is a place called Multon hall, which belonged to the
-aforementioned Thomas de Multon. Here is likewise Titton hall: the
-chapel is now converted into a stable.
-
-[Sidenote: +Frampton.+]
-
-Hard by is Frampton, probably from the Anglo-Saxonic _Faran_,
-_trajicere_: for here they passed over the river in a ferry, before
-Boston bridge was built; as at Framton, in Gloucestershire, upon the
-Severn, and Framilode passage. Farnton by Newark, where now is the
-ferry over the Trent. Gosberton, from _Gosbèrt_, or _Gosbright_, I
-suppose lord of the town before the Conquest. Fossdike seems to be
-_Fordsdike_, where we pass over the Washes.
-
-[Sidenote: +Skirbeck.+]
-
-Skirebec doubtless has its name from the Saxon, _scire_, division,
-because here the river parts the hundreds. Here was an hospital of
-knights of St. John of Jerusalem, now intirely demolished, though the
-church was standing within memory of man. There was another religious
-house near the church: the remains of it is now the parsonage-house.
-Such names of towns as Fishtoft, Butterwick, Swineshead, Cowbyte, and
-the like, seem easy enough.
-
-[Sidenote: +Sibsey.+]
-
-[Sidenote: +Leverton.+]
-
-Sibsey church has very handsome pillars and circular arches, somewhat
-after the Roman mode. The top of the steeple is added upon the old
-work; perhaps from its watery situation; _sipan_, to steep. Leverton,
-_Leofrici oppidum_: he was a potent man thereabouts at the time of the
-Normans coming, and gave to the town much common: his deed of gift
-is now in possession of the reverend and worthy vicar, Mr. William
-Falkner, which I have seen.
-
-[Sidenote: +Frieston.+]
-
-Frieston, a _frith_, _æstuarium_; so Ald Friston in Sussex, near
-Cuckmere haven. Here was an opulent monastery founded by Guy de Croun,
-whose genealogy I shall not think much to recite, because it relates
-to the antiquities of this country, and in some measure shows the
-reason of what my friend Mr. Becket, surgeon, much wondered at when
-he searched the old repository of wills at the Prerogative Office
-in London, where he observed more of this country than any other in
-England.
-
- The GENEALOGY
-
-Of the +Craons+, _Credon_, _Crodon_, _Croun_, the most illustrious
- family of Anjou, and one of the most illustrious in France, which
- came into England with William the Conqueror. The barony of Craon
- is the first and most considerable in Anjou: it is a small city in
- that province upon the river Oudon near Bretagne, encompassed with
- walls.[24]
-
- A. D. 940.
-
-Andrew de Craon, lord of Craon, of } = { Agnes, daughter of Fulk, the good
- Bruslon, and of Loches. } | { count of Anjou, and lord of Loches.
- |
- +-----------------------+---------------------+
- | |
-Lisois the elder, lord of Craon: he Artus de Craon, chambrier de
- lived in the time of Nerra, earl l’abbay de St. Aubin d’Angers.
- of Anjou.
- |
- +-------------+
- |
- Suhard de Craon the elder, lord of Craon.
- |
- +---------+--------------+----------------------------+
- | | |
-Lisois de Craon the Guerin de Craon, lord of Suhard de Craon the younger.
-younger, author of the Craon. He doing homage for
-elder or English house his baronage to Conan II. duke of Britany, instead of
-of Craon: he was lord Geffrey Martel, earl of Anjou, who claimed that service,
-of Mordelles. V. it was confiscated; whereupon he waged war, but was
-Histoire de Sablé, p. wounded therein, and died.
-109, 110. |
- | +--------+
- | |
- | Robté de Craon, heiress = Robert de Vitré, lord of Vitré.
- +----------------+ |
- | | +----------------+
- | | | Robert de Nevers, sirnamed the = Avis de Sablé.
-Hildeberg married | | Burgundian, or Allobrog. |
- to Herbert | | |
- Marquis of | Inogen de Vitré. = Reynold the Burgundian, lord
- | | | of Craon.
- | | |
- | | Authors of the second house of Craon, of special note in
- | | France. He founded the abbey of Roé, in the neighbourhood
- | of Craon, 1096. His Cri d’Arms was +Cleriau+.
- +-------------+ |
- | | |
-Geffry, first prior | Guy de Croun, baron Croun of Frieston, near Boston,
- to the abbey of St. | Lincolnshire, given him by William the Conqueror, with whom
- Evron in Normandy, | he came into England. He had another seat at Burton Crown,
- after abbot of | near (Sleaford) so called from him, as now Pedwardyn from
- Croyland, ob. 1124. | his descendants: he had much land in Ashby, Ravendale, Wade,
- +----------------+ and Bliton, com. Linc. 20 W. I. as appears in Domesday. He
- | possessed no less than sixty lordships. He gave to the
-Robert, monk of priory of Spalding, refounded about this time by his
- St. Evron, was countryman, Ivo Talbois, one carucat of land in that town,
- afterwards abbot anno 1081. Histoir. de Sablé, p, 138. thus says the charter
- of Thorney. of donation. Guy de Croun, in obedience to the divine
- inspiration, out of his ability, gave a certain parcel of
- his estate to GOD and St. Nicholas, for the soul of William
- the king, and Maud the queen, and for the soul of William
- the First, that the Lord would grant him success in his
- reign, and bring him to a good end; one carucat of land in
- Spaldingue, with the appurtenances; his wife, all his sons
- and daughters, and brothers, consenting thereto, for the
- good of his soul.----He likewise gave ten carucats of land
- in Pynchbeck to the abbey of Croyland, and two carucats in
- Spalding to the same.
- |
- +---------------------------------------+-----+------------+
- | | | |
-Godfrey de Croun, first prior | Emme. Roger de Croun.
- of Frieston. | |
- +--------------------------------------+ William de Crown.
- |
-Alan de Croun = Muriel.
- Baron Croun.
- He was in highest favour with king Hen. I. to whom he was great steward of the
-houshold. Petrus Blesensis says he was dear to the king above all other barons of the
-court, and whose counsel he valued most. He so far excelled in industry, honesty,
-wisdom, and sanctity, that he was called the King’s God, by the soldiery. In his
-country at Frieston, he was called _Alan Open-doors_, because he kept so great a
-house, says Leland in his Itinerary, Vol. VII. p. 126. He owned Southwarnburn, com.
-Southampt. He founded the priory of Frieston for Benedictin monks, subject to the
-abbot of Croyland, anno 1142: he was buried at Croyland abbey, on the south side of
-the high altar. See the _Monasticon_, and History of Ingulfus and Continuation, and
-Dugdale’s Baronage. |
- +--------------------------------------+-------------+
- | |
-1150. | Matilde.
- Maurice de Craon, baron Croun. He was } {
-made keeper of the castle of Ancennis by } { Clarice, sister to Henry III. vid.
-Hen. II. and governor of the provinces } { liberat. 35 Hen. III. m. 3. and Claus.
-of Anjou and Main: he was one of the } = { 45 Hen. III. m. 13. she was after
-plenipotentiaries on the part of the } | { married again to the duke of Burgundy,
-king, in the treaties between him and } | { 33 Hen. III. 39 Hen. III. p. 2. m. 2.
-Philip the August, king of France. } | {
- +---------------------------+-+
- | |
- Maurice de Croun, nepos regis & nepos | Guy de la Val, qui habuit in liberio
-Almerici de Croun, cui manerium de Burn | maritagio quasdam terras in Walttun com.
-restituitur post mortem Almerici de | Surr. sed forisfecit illas adherendo
-Croun.--Pat. 55. Hen. III. p. 1. m. 28. | baronibus contra Ric. I. v. Lib. Feod.
- | Milit. f. 16. b.
- +-----------------------------+---------------+
- | | |
- Ralf de Croun. | Peter de Croun habet Hamma, Waletun &
- | Ewell, cum. Surr. Pat. 17 Hen. I. m. 24.
- +--------------------------------+
-1180. |
- Guy de Crown, } = Isabel.
-baron Crown }
- He accompanied Richard I. in his voyage to the Holy Land, 1192; was present at
-the treaty between him and Tancred, king of Sicily, recited by Hoveden, annal. He
-confirmed, to the nuns of Haverholm, pasture for ninescore sheep in Bloxam fields,
-even to the bounds between them and the abbot of Grelle.--V. lib. R. Dodsworth,
-vocat. petigrees, tom. i. f. 94. b.
- |
- | Walter to Langtot = Matildis.
- | |
- | +----+
- | |
- | Ranulf de Langtot =
- | |
- | Robert de Vallibus came into } { |
-There were lands in | England with William the } = { Agnes.
-Sutton held of the | Conqueror. } { |
-honour of Croun,--Inquis. | +----------------------------+
-Wap. Elhou. 1 Ed. III. | |
-feod. milit. 42. | William de Vaux =
-offic. armor, p. 32. | |
- | +--------+
- | |
- | Robert de Vaux =
- +---+ |
-1. William Longchamp = } | +--------------+
-2. Henry de Mara. = } = Petronilla. | ³
-Gules, a fesse between three } | = { Oliver de Vaux. Chequy
-water-budgets ermine. } | | { argent and gules.
- +-------------------+ |
- | +--------------------------+
-Sir Henry de Longchamp: he died March } |
-1274, and was buried at Swynshed } { Sibilla, daughter of John de Vaux =
-abbey; his heart at Burton Pedwardin, } { Sir Thomas Heringande, owned the manor
-as called from his son in-law, before } = { Sir Thomas Heringande, of Frieston,
-the altar in the chapel of the Virgin } | { com. Suff. Az. and certain lands
-Mary. Or, three crescents gules, } | { six herrings argent. in Boston by gift
-charged each with a mullet argent. } | { of his mother,
- | _in feodo talliata,
-There is a great Fe gatery’d about Bostone parts | ob._ 1288. |
-by the name of _Petronille de la Corone_ dowghter | |
-by _Lykelehode de la Corone_ foundar of Frieston | |
-priorye, and buried at Croyland. This fe is | |
-now paid to the lord Rosse, but the Richmount | |
-fe is greater there. There is also anoder fee +---------------------------+ |
-cauld _Pepardyne_; and that the lord Linsey had: and the owners of these fees | |
-be lords of the town of Boston.--Leland’s Itin. Vol. VIII. p. 124.--Petronil | |
-had lands in Holbech and Quaplode.--Inquis. Elho, 1 Ed. III. feod. milit. 42. | |
-offic. arm. p. 32. and in Weston, p. 33, 20, 21, &c. _Juratores dicunt quod | |
-Petronilla de vallibus tenet de domino rege in capite manerium de Warnburn | |
-com. Southampton & in com. Lincoln 22. feod. mil. & dimid. per Baronium & | |
-quod Henricus de Longo Campo est ejus propinquior heres & ætat. 50. & | |
-amplius._--Escaet. 46 Hen. III. N. 5. | |
- | |
- +----------------------------------------------------+ |
- | |
-Roger Penwardyn. } { Alice: she died 15 May, 1330, was buried in the north |
- } = { Pedwardin, side of the chapel of the Virgin Mary, |
-Gules, two lions } | { in Burton where I saw her tomb-stone, with this |
-regardant argent. } | { inscription, 1714. |
- | |
- +-----------------+ |
- |*DAME ALIS. DE. PETTEWARDIN. GYT. ITY.* |
- | *DEU. DE. SA. ALME GYT. MERCI.* |
- | +------------------------------------------------------------------+
- | | |
- | Petronil = Sir William de Nereford. |
- | | +----------------+
- | | William de Roos, lord of Hamlake, } |
- | +---+ Gules, three water-budgets argent. } = Maud, heiress.
- | | |
- |Matilda, ob. S. P. +-----------------------------+
- | | { Margery, one of the coheiresses of Giles de
- | William de Ros. = { Badlismere, lord of Chillham. Their descendants
- | { were barons Ros; and the Manors’s,
- | { earls of Rutland, married an heiress.
- +------------------------------+
- |
-Thangharat, sister to } ¹ { Wallter Pedwardin, alias Lloyd, } ² { Maud, daughter
-Thelwell Llewellin, } = { lived in the castle of Brampton, } = { of Sir John
-prince of Wales. } { in Wigmorland, in the marches of } | { Lyngain.
- { Wales, called Waugher Thleud by } |
- { reason of his white hairs. } |
- +----------------------------------------------------------+
- | =anno 1340.=
-Roger Pedwardin II. he built entirely new the church of }
-Burton Pedwardin and St. Mary’s chapel there, being on the } = { Alice, daughter of
-north side; but the south aile, together with the chapel of } | { Henry Longchamp.
-St. Nicholas, was rebuilt at the same time by the } |
-parishioners. } |
- +--------------------------------------------------+
- |
-Sir Roger Pedwardin: he died 10 Feb. } { Agnes, daughter of Philip Darcy, sister
-1368, buried at Burton: he obtained a } { and coheiress of Norman D’arcy, lord
-bull for 530 days pardon to all } = { Darcy of Nocton, Azure, semée de cross
-benefactors towards the church and } | { croslets or, three cinquefoils ar.
-chapels there. } | {
- +-------------+
- | |
-John de Markham, } { daughter | Brian de Pedwarin, esc. 11 E.
-J. C. Az. on a chief } = { of Nicholas | III. N. 4. Lincoln.
-ar. a demi-lion. } | { Bottomsell. |
- | +----+
- | | |
- +--------------+ | Alice = John de Warbelton.
- | |
-Robert de Markham } = { daughter |
- } | { of Caunton. +-------+
- | |
- | Sir Walter } { Isabel, daughter
- | Pedwardin, ob. } { and coheiress of
- | 11 June, 1405. } = { Sir Rob. Hilton,
- ² | ¹ } | { and Margaret,
-Milicent } { Sir John } { Eliz. daughter } | { daughter and
-daughter of } = { Markham, justic. } = { and coheiress } | { coheir of Marmaduke
-Beckerin. } | { de Banco. } { of Hugh } | { Tweng, knt.
- | de Cressy. |
- | +--+------------+
- | | |
-Sir John Markham, of Nottingham: } | Walter de Pedwardin.
-he was lord chief justice, } |
-10 Hen. IV. buried in Sidbrook } +------+
-church, near Grantham. That } = { Margaret, coheiress | |
-manor continued in his family } | { of Simon Leek. | Catharine = David, son
-till Sir George Markham lately } | | of Sir Daniel Fletwick.
-sold it to Sir John Thorold. } | |
- | +----------------+
- | | 1430.
- | Sir Robert Pedwarin, } { Elizabeth, daughter
- | ob. 26. April, 1432. } = { to Sir Edmund
- | _fines prim. mich._ } | { Pierpoint, knight.
- | 8 Hen. IV. Linc. } | {
- | |
- | +---------------+
- | |
- +--------+ ² = Walter Pedwardin, } { Katharine daughter
- ¹ } | esq. ob. 4. Aug. } ² { of Ingilby
-Matthew Leak. } | 1429, 9 Hen. VI. } = { of Ripley, near
- ² } | Ecc. N. 7. } = { Knaresburgh.
-John de Fleet of } = Katharine. |
-Framton, esq. a } | |
-lawyer. Ar. two +------------+ +----------------+------+
-bars sable, each | | | | |
-charged with | Beatrice = Roger Pedwardin. | Thomas Pedwardin.
-three scallops | Leak. | |
-of the first. | | +------+
- | Christopher Pedwardin, of Brompton, | |
- | Salop, son and heir, released all | Katharine.
- | his right to the manor of Burton |
- | Pedwardin, Claus. 7. Ed. IV. m. 8 Linc. |
- | +------+
- | | |
- | | Joanna.
- +------------+ +----------------+
- | | |
- Alexander Leak = Margaret |
- |
- |
- John Quickerell, of Boston = Ann.
-
-
-The site of Roushall, where the barons Ros lived, is in the parish of
-Fishtoft.
-
-[Sidenote: +Vainona.+]
-
-In Wainfleet church, the bishop of Winchester, whose name was Patten,
-founder of Magdalen college, Oxford, erected a marble monument for
-his father, where are his coats of arms in the windows. In the town
-he built a handsome chapel of brick, and endowed it with a pretty
-good revenue, to pray for his and his ancestors souls. Now it is
-made a free-school house. This place still retains its ancient name;
-for I am certain it is the Vainona mentioned by the famous author of
-_Ravenna_, who has happily preserved so many of our old British cities.
-The learned Mr. Baxter, in his Glossary of British Antiquities, with
-a sagacity peculiar to himself, has corrected this from Navione. The
-sea has added much ground to this place since the Roman times, and
-then their city stood higher up by the churches, which is a mile off
-the present town. The haven was near St. Thomas church, now called
-North-holm: it is still very deep thereabouts, and appears to have been
-broad, being a pretty good river, whilst the waters of the east fen
-ran through it, and kept it open: it was thirty foot wide a mile above
-the churches, as appears by the old cloughs there; for they had wisely
-contrived by that means to keep out the salt water and heighten the
-fresh, which no doubt would have preserved the haven to this day, had
-they not foolishly suffered the east-fen water to be carried to Boston.
-It is apparent the natural course of water here (as we before observed
-of other parts of the level) is eastward: the east fen is lower than
-the west fen. At Nordike bridge anciently were four arches: the edge of
-the piers which cut the water was westward; which shows that the water
-originally run eastward, and the whole level was drained that way,
-though now most currents run to Boston. The inhabitants have a constant
-tradition, that this was a great town; but when the haven was filled
-up, Boston became the sea-port: likewise they say there is a road
-across the east fen, called Salter’s road, which probably was the Roman
-road; and there are people now alive who knew such as had remembered
-it. Doubtless this was a place where the Romans made their salt of the
-sea water, to supply all this province; and it is not improbable that
-this road led to Banovallum, Lindum, &c. Many salt hills are visible
-from Wainfleet to Friskney. The king is still lord of the soil of this
-old Roman city.
-
-[Sidenote: +Burgh+, _a_ Ro. _fort_.]
-
-Three miles north, and as much from Skegness and the sea, is Burgh, a
-market-town, whose name drew my attention. I found it to be a Roman
-_castrum_ to guard the sea-coasts, probably against the Saxon rovers:
-it is a piece of very high ground, partly natural, partly raised by
-Roman labour, overlooking the wide extended marshes, perhaps in those
-times covered with salt water, at least in spring tides. There are two
-artificial _tumuli_, one very high, called Cock-hill. In St. Mary’s
-church-yard, now demolished, Roman coins have been found. I saw a very
-fair and large Antoninus Pius in brass, cos. +iiii+. in possession of
-Tho. Linny. In the yards and gardens about the town they frequently
-dig up bodies. St. Peter’s church is large and good. There appear no
-Roman ways, _vallum_, or ditch, to inclose the town, which is a sort of
-knoll, or rising ground.
-
-I was told of a Roman aqueduct of earth, found at Spilsby. In Halton
-church hard by is this inscription on a flat stone. + *SIRE WATER BER
-GIST ICY DE SA ALME DEUS EIT MERCI*. Another, a cross-legged knight:
-on his shield a lion rampant. At Hagnaby, a religious house founded
-by Agnes de Orreby. Well, by Ralf de Hauvile. Near Well, on a chalky
-heath, are three curious Celtic barrows contiguous and joined one
-into another, composed of chalk: the chalk in Lincolnshire by Alford
-answers to that in Norfolk. Tateshall collegiate church founded by Ralf
-Cromwell. Many _tumuli_ hereabouts, as at Hagnaby and other places,
-but none so remarkable a curiosity as those by the broad road upon
-the descent of the high country, overlooking the vast level towards
-Boston. At Revesby, by the seat of Joseph Banks, esq; there is an oval
-inclosed with a broad ditch: the longest diameter, which is somewhat
-above 300 foot, is precisely east and west; the other a little above
-100: the entrance to it is on the middle of the south side: within,
-at each end of the length, is a large _tumulus_ 100 foot in diameter:
-they are equal in shape and similar positure, a large vacuum of 100
-foot lying between: it is very regularly formed: the length of the oval
-ditch that incloses the two _tumuli_ is equal to thrice the breadth:
-the _tumuli_ are large and high: that rising on the north side, without
-the ditch, is of an odd figure, but similar. It seems to have been a
-place of sepulture; perhaps two British kings were there buried; and
-the height on the north side was the place whereon they sacrificed
-horses, or the like, to the _manes_ of the deceased. Or is it a place
-of religious worship among the old Britons? and the two hills may
-possibly be the temples of the Sun and Moon. I am inclined to think it
-ancient, because of the measure: the breadth is equal to 100 Celtic
-feet, as I call them; the length to 300.
-
-[Sidenote: +Banovallum.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LXXXIX.]
-
-Horncastle was undoubtedly the Banovallum in _Ravennas_: the latter
-part of the word is Latin, so that it signifies the fortification
-upon the river Bane. It is of a low situation, placed in the angle of
-the two brooks meeting here, the Bane and Waring; whence the modern
-name Horncastle, which signifies an angle, all this country over, as
-you know in your neighbouring Cow-hurn, Holbech-hurn, Guy-hurn, &c. I
-will not venture to conceit it came from the ancient way of painting
-rivers horned, from their windings and turnings; of which we may find
-a hint in Burton’s Comment. on Antoninus’s Itinerary, pag. 56. and
-they that please may consult Bochart’s _Phaleg_, II. 22. where are
-many proofs of the ancients expressing an angle by the term _horn_.
-Skinner in his _Etymologicon_ rightly affirms it comes from the Saxon
-word _hyrn_; and Ælfricus expounds it by the word _cornu_. It is
-probable the Romans were induced to make a station here at first from
-its convenient situation, easily rendered defensible by a _vallum_
-drawn across the aperture from one river to the other; and thence came
-the Roman name. Afterwards they built the indissoluble stone wall,
-whole _vestigia_ are manifest the whole compass round, and in some
-places pretty high, as three or four yards, and four yards thick.
-It serves for sides of gardens, cellars, out-houses, &c. as chance
-offers, inclosing the market-place, church, and good part of the town.
-It is a perfect parallelogram, composed of two squares: at the angles
-have been square towers, as they report: the gates were in the middle
-of three sides, and I suppose a postern into the meadows called the
-Holmes at the union of the two rivulets. I suspect originally the river
-Bane ran nearer to the wall in that part, and behind the manor-house:
-the garden there has been heightened, and the river pushed farther
-off, and turned with a larger bow to favour the people who live in
-Far-street, and especially the tanners, who are very numerous there:
-both rivers probably were wider and deeper than now, as the Celtic name
-of _Bane altus_ intimates, which at present is conformable to reality
-lower down. Some do not scruple to affirm it was a sea-port, that is,
-navigable. The Waring arises but a mile or two off. The field across it
-south of the town is called the Thowng and Cagthorp, and probably was
-its _pomæria_, from the Saxon word _pang_, _campus_, _ager_. Here they
-find a great number of Roman coins. I saw a brass coin of Vespasian;
-reverse, an eagle, +CONSECRATIO+; dug up from under the walls of
-Banovallum: Mr. Hograve of the place has it now: but Horncastle was
-not built in the time of Vespasian. I saw, in possession of Mr. Terry
-of Lincoln, a silver Vespasian found here; reverse, a sitting Genius
-with a sympulum in her hand, and +DN. MA+. In 1734, a girl digging
-sand by the road side going from Les Yates to Horncastle, and near
-Horncastle, dug up an earthen urn full of Roman coins, rings, &c. Mr.
-Terry collector gave me some of them. Near the walls upon digging
-cellars they sometimes find bodies buried. A rivulet called Temsford
-runs into the Bane. The school lands were given by private persons,
-and it was incorporated by queen Elizabeth: their seal is a castle and
-hunting-horn: and a horn is the brand for the town cattle upon the
-common. It is dubious whether Bowbridge has its name from the arch of
-the bridge, or from its being the entrance into the town from Lindum
-through the gate called formerly a Bow. This way is the maypole-hill,
-where probably stood an Hermes in Roman times. The boys annually keep
-up the festival of the _Floralia_ on May day, making a procession to
-this hill with _May gads_ (as they call them) in their hands: this is
-a white willow wand, the bark peeled off, tied round with cowslips, a
-_thyrsus_ of the Bacchanals: at night they have a bonfire and other
-merriment; which is really a sacrifice, or religious festival. The
-king formerly had this whole town in his possession, until it was
-bestowed on the bishop of Carlisle. Near the conflux of the two brooks
-was lately a pleasant garden, and a place called Julian’s Bower, much
-talked of.
-
-[Illustration: 89 +Banovallum.+ _Sept. 1. 1722._
-
- Josepho Banks _de Revesby Ar._ Romanorum hæc Vestigia d.d. W.
- Stukeley.
-
- _Stukeley. Del._]
-
-[Illustration: 19
-
- _Amicissimo Henrico Pacey Ar.
- Prospectum Bostoniæ Suæ d.d. W. Stukeley
- Aug. 29. 1722._]
-
-[Sidenote: +Boston.+]
-
-[Sidenote: +TAB. XIX.+]
-
-_Leak_ signifies a watery marshy place. _Wrangle_ an _ab_ A. S. _Wear
-lacus_, and _hangel arundo_, _lacus arundinibus obsita_? Return we
-to Boston, _Fanum Sti. Botulphi_, the saint of sea-faring men. St.
-Botulf (the bishop) his body lay in St. Edmund’s monastery at Bury.
-Wm. Malmsb. p. 137. This seems to have been the last bounds northward
-of the _Iceni_ in most antient times; therefore its old name was
-_Icanhoe_, or _Icenorum munimentum_, as Mr. Baxter interprets it in
-his Glossary. I guess the first monastery founded here was on the
-south of the present church; for I saw vast stone walls dug up there,
-and a plain leaden cross taken up; in my possession. Many were the
-religious houses here in superstitious times, whose lands were given
-to the corporation by Hen. VIII. as likewise the estate of the lord
-Hussey, beheaded then at Lincoln for rebellion: he lived in one of
-the houses where is a great square tower of brick, called now Hussey
-tower. There are many such in this country, as that now called Rochford
-and sometimes Richmond tower, which is very high. Queen Mary was a
-great benefactress to this corporation, and gave them lands called
-Erection-lands, to pay a vicar, a lecturer, and two school-masters:
-they have now a revenue of a thousand pounds per annum. In the
-parsonage-house is a scutcheon with a pastoral staff behind it thus: a
-fess charged with a fish and two annulets between three plates, each
-charged with a cross fitché. The church, I think, is the largest parish
-church (without cross ailes) in the world: it is a hundred foot wide
-and three hundred foot long within the walls: the roof is handsomely
-cieled with Irish oak supported by four and twenty tall and slender
-pillars: many remains of fine brasses in the church, none so perfect
-as this in the south aile. Under the figures of the man and woman this
-inscription,
-
- *Ecce sub hoc lapide henricus Mete sistit humatus
- vi mortis rapida generosus semper vocitatus
- hic quisquis veneris ipsum precibus memoraris.
- sponsam defunctam simul aliciam sibi junctam
- anno mil C quater quadragenoque deno
- marcia quarto dies, extat ei Requies.*
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. III. 2d vol.]
-
-The tower is the highest (100 yards) and noblest in Europe, flattering
-a weary traveller with its astonishing aspect even at ten miles
-distance. It is easily seen forty mile round this level country, and
-farther by sea: the lantern at top is very beautiful, and the thinness
-of the stone-work is admirable. There was a prodigious clock-bell,
-which could be heard six or seven miles round, with many old verses
-round it: about the year 1710 they knocked it in pieces, without taking
-the inscription. Twenty yards from the foundation of this tower runs
-the rapid Witham, through a bridge of wood. On the south side of the
-church-yard was, some few years ago, a curious monument[25] (as they
-say) of one of the builders of the church, in stone, of arched work,
-but now intirely demolished; and in the market place in my memory was
-an old and large cross, with a vault underneath, steps all around
-it, and at top a stone pyramid of thirty foot high, but at this time
-quite destroyed. I found here an old brass seal of William Chetwynd,
-with his coat of arms, A fesse lozengé between three mullets, which I
-gave to the honourable gentleman of that name. Several frieries here,
-black, white and grey; of which little remains. Oliver Cromwell, then a
-colonel, lay in Boston the night before he fought the battle of Winceby
-near Horncastle, Oct. 5. 1643. In North Holland they have a custom of
-pulling geese twice a year; which has not escaped Pliny’s notice, X.
-22. There is nothing left of the adjacent Swineshed abbey, founded by
-Rob. Greisly, but a yew-tree and a knightly tomb fixed in the wall
-of the new house. Here king John sickened in his journey to Sleeford
-castle and Newark castle, where he died.
-
-East of Boston was a chapel called Hiptoft, and in the town a church
-dedicated to St. John, but demolished. Here was a staple for wool and
-several other commodities, and a vast foreign trade: the hall was
-pulled down in my time. The great hall of St. Mary’s Guild is now
-the place of meeting for the corporation and sessions, &c. Here was
-born the learned John Fox the martyrologist. Queen Elizabeth gave the
-corporation a court of admiralty all over the sea-coast hereabouts.
-
-Abundance of rare sea-plants grow near this coast: many species
-of sea-_wormwoods_, _scurvy-grass_, _crithmum marinum_, _atriplex
-marinum_, _&c._ of which we may expect a good account from Dr. Blair
-of Boston; as also of many rare fishes caught hereabouts, _Raja_,
-_needle-fish_, _star-fish_, &c. and of the _stickle-back_ oil is made
-in very large quantities, the invention of the _Ichtyophagi_, Pliny
-XV. 7. _Carum vulgare_, Caraway, grows plentifully in the pastures all
-about Boston. _Sambucus foliis variegatis baccis albis_, Elder-tree
-with gilded leaves and white berries, in Boston Fen-ends: a gilded
-_ivy_ in Mr. Pacey’s garden. _Apium palustre Italicum_, Selery _vulgo
-dictum_, in all the ditches of Holland. _Paronychia folio rutaceo_,
-Rue-leaved whitlow-grass, on the north side of walls and houses. A
-_barberry-tree_ without stones, in Alderchurch parish. _Asparagus
-sylvestris_, wild asparagus, in Gorham wood, Whaplode. Many rare plants
-in the east fen, such as _stratiotes azoides_, fresh water fengreen.
-In the boggy grounds about Tattersall, _Trifolium palustre_, _ros
-solis_, _virga aurea_, _myrtus brabantica_, _pinguicula_, _asphodelus_,
-_adianthum aureum_. In the park, _androsæmum_, _tutsan_: in the ditches
-hard by, _valeriana sylvestris_: in the heaths, many sorts of _erica_:
-_solanum lethale_ about Cowhurn.
-
-[Sidenote: +Kirton.+]
-
-Pass we from Boston by Kirkton, famous for apples, denominated from its
-fair church built by Alexander, that magnificent bishop of Lincoln,
-after the manner of a cathedral with a transept. It has a handsome
-tower standing upon four pillars in the middle of the cross, with a
-noble ring of five large bells. I observe, this building is set upon
-the ruins of a former church, part whereof is visible at the
-west end: and in most of the churches in this country the same may be
-discovered, from the different manner of the architecture; the most
-ancient having small windows arched semicircularly; what is additional,
-to be known by the pointed Gothic arches. This church is very neat both
-within and without: upon the font is this inscription:
-
-+ *Orate pro anima alani burton qui fontem istum fieri fec. a. d.
-mccccii.*
-
-Against the north wall is the monument of a person in armour, and round
-it this inscription,
-
- + *Orate pro anima Iohannis de Meres.*
-
-The family of the Meres has flourished much hereabouts.
-
-[Illustration: _3·2ᵈ._
-
- _Boston Cross_
-
- _Stukeley delin_ _I Harris Sculp_]
-
-[Illustration: _4·2ᵈ._
-
- The Remains of Crowland Abby. 14. July. 1724._
-
- _Stukeley del._ _I Harris Sculp_]
-
-[Sidenote: +Crowland.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. IV.]
-
-Upon the edge of Lincolnshire, in the middle of a vast fenny level,
-Crowland is situate, memorable for its early religion and the ruins
-of an opulent monastery, which still makes a considerable prospect.
-The abbey presents a majestic view of ruins; founded a thousand years
-ago, by Athelbald king of the Mercians, in a horrid silence of bogs
-and thorns; made eminent for the holy retirement of his chaplain
-Guthlac, who changed the gaieties of the court for the severities of
-an anchorite. The king endowed it with a profuse hand, and all the
-land for several miles round the church belonged to it. The foundation
-is laid on piles of wood drove into the ground with gravel and sand,
-and they have found several of them in tearing up the ruins of the
-eastern part of the church; for what remains now is only part of the
-west end; and of that only one corner in tolerable repair, which is
-their parish-church at present. It is not difficult at this time to
-distinguish part of the very first building of this church, from that
-which was built by Ingulphus.[26] In the middle of the cross stood once
-a lofty tower and a remarkably fine ring of bells, of which there is a
-proverb in this country still remaining: one prodigiously great bell
-was sacred to Guthlac: they are said to have been the first peal of
-bells in the county, perhaps England.[27] From the foundation of this
-tower to the west end, is somewhat left, but only the walls, pillars,
-with passages or galleries at top, and stair-cases at the corners. The
-roof, which was of Irish oak finely carved and gilt, fell down about
-twenty years ago: you see pieces of it in every house. The pavement is
-covered with shrubs for brass inscriptions, and people now at pleasure
-dig up the monumental stones, and divide the holy shipwreck for their
-private uses; so that, instead of one, most of the houses in the town
-are become religious. The painted glass was broke by the soldiers in
-the rebellion, for they made a garrison of the place. All the eastern
-part of the body of the church is intirely razed to the foundation;
-and the ashes as well as tombs of an infinite number of illustrious
-personages, kings, abbots, lords, knights, &c. there hoping for repose,
-are dispersed, to the irreparable damage of English history. The great
-Waltheof, earl of Northumberland and Huntingdon, was one of the saints
-here: he was beheaded by the Norman conqueror. The monastic buildings,
-cloysters, hall, abbot’s lodgings,[28] and the like, which no doubt
-were very fine, are absolutely demolished; no trace thereof left,
-whereby their extent might be guessed at. In the north-west corner
-of the church stands a strong tower with a very obtuse spire, and a
-pleasant ring of small bells. Over the west gate are the images of
-divers kings, abbots, &c. among the rest St. Guthlac with a whip and
-knife, as always painted: they were cut in a soft kind of stone, and
-drawn over in oil colour with gilding.
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. VII.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XI.]
-
-Not far off the abbey eastward, upon a hillock, is the remnant of a
-little stone cottage, called Anchor Church-house: here was a chapel
-over the place where St. Guthlac lived a hermit, and where he was
-buried.[29] Over-against the west end of the abbey is the famous
-triangular bridge: it is too steep to be commonly rode over; horses and
-carriages go under it: it is formed upon three segments of a circle
-meeting in one point; they say each base stands in a different county.
-The rivers Nyne and Welland here meet. On one side sits an image of
-king Athelbald with a globe in his hand. St. Guthlake’s cross, between
-Spalding and Crowland, near Brother-house and Cloot-bar, stands upon
-the side of the bank, almost buried under earth: it is a boundary of
-the church lands: of great antiquity.[30]
-
-
-
-
- ITER OXONIENSE. II.
-
- _Sed prior hæc hominis cura est cognoscere terram._ +Virg.+
-
-
- _To Mr._ JOHN HARDY _of_ Nottingham.
-
-It is commonly remarked, that impressions of any sort made upon
-youthful minds last long; and, like a cut in the bark of tender sprigs,
-grow deeper and more apparent with advancing years.
-
- _Crescent illæ crescetis amores._ +Virg.+
-
-The many hours I have spent with you when I first began to cast my eyes
-upon the scenes of the world, and consider things about me, recur to my
-mind with pleasure. I should be ungrateful then, (to which my temper
-is most abhorrent) and I should deny myself a particular satisfaction,
-did I not acknowledge the remembrance of a friendship now mature:
-therefore to you I offer the earliest fruits of it, this small account
-of the first pleasurable journey I can reckon to myself, where I had
-opportunity for satisfying my growing curiosity. It is no wonder that
-your learning, your taste of antiquities, and all endearing qualities,
-made me fond of cultivating your acquaintance; and perhaps to you in
-great measure do I owe what may not be discommendable in amusements of
-the following kind, since our converse and our journeying sometimes
-together, to visit the remains of venerable antiquity, in my first
-years, gave me the love and incitement to such pursuits. I am not
-concerned to make an excuse for the meanness of this present: were
-it not juvenile, it would not be genuine. As when first with you, so
-since it has been my method, to put into writing what little remarks I
-made in travelling: at length I had collected so much, that with some
-drawings of places and things taken at the same time, it was judged not
-unworthy of publication: my consent was grounded upon hopes that by
-this means I might give some account of every part of my time, and that
-my own pleasures might not be altogether unuseful; especially thinking
-it was no hard task to equal somewhat of this sort lately done, and
-well received of the public. It is to be wished this branch of learning
-should revive among us, which has lain dormant since the great Camden;
-so that either in discoursing on it, or journeying, we might find some
-entertainment worthy of men of letters.
-
-[Illustration: 7 _Croyland Bridge Lincolnshire._
-
- _W. Stukeley f. 1721. & Jonathan Sisson Mathematico, Conterraneo suo
- ut Amicitice pignus offert._]
-
-[Sidenote: +Stanford.+]
-
-Passing the fenny counterscarps of Holland, we begin our journey at
-Stanford, which stands in a mild air and pleasant country abounding
-with noblemen’s seats. Many religious houses have been at Stanford,
-and once a college founded there, of which they boast much; but of
-all these things we expect shortly an exact and full account from the
-reverend Mr. Peck. About 1708, a brass seal was dug up, in the castle
-at Stanford, of Thomas bishop of Elphin in Ireland; in possession
-of Ralf Madyson, esq. Burghley, the earl of Exeter’s, is worth a
-traveller’s view: the rooms are finely painted by Seignior Varrio:
-abundance of curious pictures from Italy, collected by my lord’s
-grandfather. At St. Martin’s church are the monuments of that noble
-family.
-
-[Sidenote: +Foderinghay.+]
-
-Through a pleasant and woody country, we went to Foderinghay castle,
-situate on a branch of the river Nyne, overlooking the adjacent country
-and wide-extended meadows. The castle seems to have been very strong:
-there was a high mount, or keep, environed with a deep ditch: the
-space around it is guarded by a wall, double ditch, and the river: it
-is mostly demolished, and all the materials carried off. They pretend
-to show the ruins of the hall where Mary queen of Scots was beheaded.
-Some say king James I. ordered this fortress to be destroyed out of
-indignation: it was the seat of Edmund of Langley, duke of York,
-buried in the collegiate church here, a very neat building, founded by
-Edward duke of York, and here likewise interred: their monuments in
-the chancel (which was intirely demolished at the suppression) were
-restored by queen Elizabeth: the windows of the church are filled with
-very handsome painted glass, representing the images of cardinals,
-arch-bishops, abbots, &c. such as St. Denis with his head in his hand,
-St. Guthlac of Croyland, Richard Scrope arch-bishop of Canterbury, &c.
-these were saved in the late civil war, by the then minister of the
-parish, with a little money given to the soldiers that came to execute
-the harmless saints. We met with these uncouth verses upon the wall,
-showing the poetry of those times:
-
- _In festo Martyrii processus Martiniani,
- Ecclesiæ prima fuit hujus petra locata,
- Anno Christi primum centum ac mille
- Cum deca quinta H. V. tunc imminente 2ᵈᵃ._
-
-On the north side of the church are the remains of the college, and the
-meadow under it retains its name: the steeple has an octagonal tower
-at the top, somewhat like that of Boston; at the bases of which are
-the images of bears and ragged staffs, cognisances (I suppose) of the
-founders; as the falcon and fetterlock often painted in the glass. They
-have a very ancient MS. book here, of the affairs of the parish. There
-is a school in the town, erected by Hen. VII. worth about 30l. per ann.
-over the door is wrote, _Disce aut discede_. A stone bridge over the
-river was built by queen Elizabeth anno 1555. shown by an inscription
-on the wall, a monument of the spite of the soldiers, who cut out with
-their swords, as they passed by, one line of it, _God save the queen_.
-
-[Sidenote: +Oundale.+]
-
-Oundale, or Avondale, is remarkable for a drumming well, much talked
-of by the superstitious vulgar: no doubt it is owing to the passage of
-the water, and air upon certain conditions, through the subterraneous
-chinks; for, as Virgil says, in his fine poem called _Ætna_,
-
- _Secta est omnis humus penitusque cavata latebris, &c._
-
-and that it is done by intervals or pulses as it were, is but
-consentaneous to many of Nature’s operations. Here are two long
-bridges of stone. Louick church, on the side of a hill, is very fine,
-founded by John de Drayton, anno 1125: the windows are full of coats
-of arms. There is a picture of the founder in armour, on his knees,
-presenting his church to God: here is his monument, of the Veres too,
-and Staffords earls of Wiltshire, and others who intermarried with his
-family: there is a modern one of the late Dutchess of Norfolk, who was
-married, after her divorcement, to the present owner of the family
-seat, called Drayton house, Sir John Germayn, who has for the most part
-new-built it.
-
-[Sidenote: +Boughton.+]
-
-From hence we went to Boughton, the seat of the duke of Montagu,
-magnificent for building, painting and gardens: the stables are large
-and stately, well calculated for the designed grandeur of the house;
-for it is not yet finished: the hall is a very noble room: on the
-cieling is a convocation of the gods admirably painted, as are many
-suites of rooms and apartments, stair-cases, galleries, &c. beside
-the great numbers of portraits and other curious pictures, part of
-the furniture: the gardens contain fourscore and ten acres of ground,
-adorned with statues, flower-pots, urns of marble and metal, many very
-large basons, with variety of fountains playing, aviaries, reservoirs,
-fish-ponds, canals, admirable greens, wildernesses, terraces, &c. the
-cascade is very fine: a whole river, running through the length of the
-gardens, is diversified very agreeably to complete its beauty.
-
-[Sidenote: +Geddington.+]
-
-A mile off is Geddington, where in a _trivium_ stands one of the stone
-crosses[31] built by king Edward I. in memory of his queen Eleanor,
-who died at Hareby near Bolingbroke, in Lincolnshire, 1291. It is
-formed upon a triangular model, of pretty Gothic architecture to suit
-its station. Her bowels were buried by the high altar in the Lady’s
-chapel of Lincoln minster; and in her journey thence to Westminster,
-where ever her herse rested, the king erected one of these magnificent
-crosses, as a monument of his great love: upon them are the arms of
-England, Castile, Leon and Poictou. These are the places, as far as I
-am at present informed, Lincoln, Grantham, Stamford,[32] Geddington,
-Northampton, Stony Stratford, Dunstable, St. Alban’s, Waltham,
-Cheapside over against Wood-street, Charing-cross. Near this place is
-Boughton, having a petrifying spring, which forms itself a canal of
-stone as it runs, consolidating the twigs, moss, and all adventitious
-bodies. We saw near the road a spring-head, with a statue of Moses in
-the middle of the water, belonging to Boughton house.
-
-[Illustration: 12 _The West View of_ Waltham Cross _11 Jul. 1721._
-
- _Petro Le Neve Ar. Norroy. tab. d.d. Wˢ. Stukeley_
-
- _Stukeley delin._ _J. Harris Sculp._]
-
-[Sidenote: +Eltabona+]
-
-Through Kettering we went to Northampton, the most elegant town
-in England: which, being wholly burnt down, is rebuilt with great
-regularity and beauty. There is a spacious square market-place, a fine
-assize-house of Corinthian architecture. Allhallow’s church is built
-after a pretty model, with a cupola and a noble portico before it of
-eight lofty Ionic columns: upon the balustrade a statue of king Charles
-II. There is an inscription of John Bailes, aged above 126: his sight,
-hearing and memory, intire; buried 1706. One of the old churches, St.
-Sepulchre’s, seems to have belonged to the Knights Hospitalers of St.
-John of Jerusalem, of a circular form: there has been another tacked to
-it of later date, with a choir and steeple, as to that at Cambridge of
-the same name and figure: another such I am told is at Guildford, which
-are all of this sort that I know of in England. I suspect these are
-the most ancient churches in England, and probably built in the later
-times of the Romans for Christian service, at least in the early Saxon
-reigns. Westward are the ruins of the castle, by the river side, built
-by Simon Silvanect I. earl of Northampton, who founded here likewise
-St. Andrew’s abbey: his son Simon Silvanect II. earl of Northampton
-and Huntingdon, founded St. Mary de Près abbey here about 1150. This
-probably is a Roman town arising from one of the forts built upon
-this river, as that great people proceeded northward in the conquest
-of the island; and being mentioned by Ravennas between Leicester and
-Stoney Stratford, it is very likely the Eltabona there, meaning _ael_,
-_supercilium_, and Avon, the river. Roman coins have been found on
-the other side the river: there are likewise the footsteps of the
-fortifications round the town, thrown up with bastions in the time of
-the civil wars. Under those on the south side, descending into a stone
-quarry which has abundance of intricate turnings, I saw a piece of oak
-wood, as big as both one’s hands, lie between the _strata_ of solid
-stone: though petrified, the ligneous fibres when split would burn
-in a candle. I suppose it to have been lodged there in the deluge. A
-little way from the town, about Sprotton, are the pits where they dig
-up tobacco-pipe clay. Near Billing, about three miles from Northampton,
-not far from the earl of Twomond’s seat, was lately found a mine of
-copper, and coal, and marble, as they told me.
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XII.]
-
-[Sidenote: +Guildsborough.+ Roman _Camp_.]
-
-From Northampton, over the river, by a large stone bridge where is an
-old religious house, half a mile off in the London road, is another of
-queen Eleanor’s stone crosses, called Queen’s cross, with her images
-and arms. It stands on a hill in the open country upon eight steps, in
-form much like that of Waltham, of which I have given a print. On the
-other side of the town, about three miles distance, is Holdenby house,
-which lies in noble ruins: here king Charles I. was kept prisoner.
-A little way off is Naseby,[33] where the bloody and fatal battle
-happened between his forces and those of the parliament, upon a fine
-plain where at present stands a windmill: the marks of several great
-holes appear, where the slain were buried. This town, as near as may
-be, is the navel of England. Near is Guildsborough, so named from a
-Roman camp of a square form, and deep ditch, called the Burrows. I
-was told of several more thereabouts, which I suppose those made in
-the time of Ostorius about the heads of the rivers here; which all
-together made a sort of fortification between the north and south parts
-of the kingdom, especially between the Avon and Severn. A long barrow
-at Pesford, called Longman’s hill. We saw Althorp, a curious seat of
-the earl of Sunderland’s, elegantly furnished: there is a fine gallery
-adorned with good pictures, and a noble library.
-
-[Sidenote: +Eston.+]
-
-My lord Lemster’s seat, now earl of Pomfret, near Towcester, is
-a stately building, and stands pleasantly, encompassed with good
-plantations of wood, visto’s and agreeable prospects. In the grand view
-to the back front, beyond the garden, is a large and long canal: in the
-house are several curious pictures; an original, of Sir Paul Ricot; of
-a pillar of Persepolis, one of those sixty foot high; Perseus loosing
-Andromeda, by Gioseppi Cari; a copy of Galatea, from Raphael: but what
-highly inhances the glory of this seat, is the vast number of Roman
-and Greek marbles, statues, busto’s, bas reliefs, &c. part of the most
-noble collection of the great earl of Arundel. My lord has it in his
-thoughts to build a large room, or gallery, to receive this invaluable
-treasure; at present they are for the most part exposed to the weather
-in the garden. I shall cursorily name them all with the haste of a
-traveller, though each single piece merits a serious view, and a long
-description.
-
-At the end of the side terrace in the garden, and near the house,
-stands an intire column of marble in two pieces, fluted, taken from
-among the ruins of the temple of Apollo at the isle of Delos, where
-many now lie: this is set upon a proper base and pedestal made
-purposely for it: the capital is unusual, but very beautiful, and
-seems perfectly to answer that description which Vitruvius gives us,
-IV. 1. of the origin of the Corinthian capital from the conceit of
-Callimachus, who was pleased with the appearance of a basket covered
-with a tile, and luckily set upon the middle of a root of _acanthus_,
-or _brank ursin_, which shot up its curled leaves around it in a
-delicate and tender manner: upon it stands a statue, the upper part
-naked. In the niches of that wall along the walk are several broken
-statues of goddesses, naked or in fine drapery, where the mind is
-divided between the pleasure of seeing what remains and the grief for
-what is lost. Upon the stairs that descend into the garden are a great
-many whole and broken statues, pieces of _basso relievo_, altars, urns,
-tombs, &c. such as the destruction of Troy, represented in the Trojan
-horse, the merriment of the Trojans, the slaughter of Priamus, Achilles
-driving his chariot with Hector tied to it: there is another bas-relief
-of a battle; a figure recumbent at dinner; two figures in procession,
-but covered over with moss; four figures, two with Phrygian bonnets;
-good pieces of cornice-work, with mouldings of ovolo’s, bead-moulds,
-&c. a tomb, the husband and wife with the son between; a piece of
-Bacchanalians; the end of a tomb, or vase; a mask and revelling
-figures; an horseman and footman engaging. Most of these antiquities
-seem of the highest Greek times. Before the steps upon pedestals are
-two Egyptian _sphynges_ mitred, and two Muses sitting: other things
-thereabouts are a sea-horse in basso; a man carrying another; a capital
-of a pillar made of a horse’s head, with branches coming out of his
-mouth like them at Persepolis, a dog’s head on one angle, and lions
-on the other: upon it are busts and heads: over that is a portal of
-a monumental stone, with a woman and two children, the tomb of some
-player, with fine bassos of masks, the busto of the deceased; four
-Genii; two lions devouring horses, finely cut: over it a priestess by
-the side of a temple: eight round altars or pedestals adorned with
-bulls heads, festoons, &c. which stand upon the piers of the stairs:
-upon and about them are other antiquities, such as the bottom part of
-Scylla; three monsters like dogs devouring three men; a receiver for an
-urn. Cupid asleep lies upon this.
-
-On the north side the front of the house, a tomb; another capital of
-a horse’s head, &c. over it a basso of Venus riding on a sea-horse, a
-Cupid driving; a lion over it; two Cupids, _alto relievo_: some busts
-over the windows; a young Nero, Faunus, &c.
-
-At the south end of the house, on the ground, an old headless statue;
-upon the basement, a tomb of a boy wrought in channel-work, his busto
-in basso upon it: over the windows a small statue; a woman with a child
-in her arms; a tomb; another capital from the temple of Apollo at
-Delos; a Greek mask.
-
-Next let us descend into the garden along the middle walk. In the
-parterres about the fountain stand four Greek statues very intire,
-bigger than the life, of most admirable art: they are dressed in
-matron-like robes, or outer garments, in most comely folds, yet cut
-so exquisitely, that the folds of the inner drapery appear, and the
-whole shape of the body, as if transparent: they cannot be sufficiently
-commended. Between them and the house on the south side, is that
-celebrated statue of Cicero intire, with his _sudarium_ in his right,
-and a scroll in his left hand: the sight of the eyes is cut hollow. I
-could not possibly excuse my self half a quarter of an hour’s serious
-view of this master-piece, frequently going round it: where so much
-seeming simplicity of the carver, has called forth all the fire of that
-divine genius that could make statues hear, as this artist has made
-them speak, and left an eternal monument of contention between him and
-the great orator: it grieved me to think it should stand a day longer
-in the open air. Answering to this on the left, is another statue of
-more robust shape and workmanship: his left hand holds a scroll, his
-right is laid in a passionate manner upon his breast: if sinewy muscles
-denote one that worked on the anvil, it may possibly be Demosthenes.
-The two next that correspond beyond the fountain, are Scipio Africanus
-and Asiaticus, in an heroic dress. Beyond, on each side the steps
-going down to the lower garden, are two _colossi_, Fabius Maximus the
-cunctator, and Archimides with a square in his hand. At each end of
-this cross-walk, or terrace, which terminates the middle or principal
-one, is built a handsome stone-work with niches and pediment supported
-with pilasters, contrived on purpose to receive other pieces: in that
-on the left hand, or north side, is the tomb of the famous Germanicus,
-adorned with carving of bas-relief: upon it two admirable busts of
-him and Agrippina his wife. Between these upon the tomb stands an
-altar-like pedestal with a small and ancient statue of Jupiter sitting.
-In the pediment over the arch is a curious piece of marble, whereon
-is raised the upper part of a man with his arms and hands extended,
-and the impression likewise of a foot: this I suppose the original
-standard of the Greek measure. Upon the _apex_ of the pediment is a
-fine statue of Apollo with the right arm naked, the other covered with
-a mantle: below the hips it ends in a _terminus_; so that it is an
-_Hermapollon_. In two niches here, are two large and curious trunks,
-as fine as the loquacious Pasquin or Marforio at Rome. Upon the two
-outermost pilasters are two other beautiful trunks. At the corner of
-this terrace is an altar. At the other end of this cross walk, under
-the stone-work is a marble chair with an inscription on the back of
-it, denoting that it belonged to the high-priest of Isis, as said;
-for it is obliterated: it is remarkably easy to sit on: the sides are
-embossed with winged _sphynges_. On each side of it are two sitting
-fragments. Upon the top of this stone-work is a very large and curious
-Greek statue of Pallas, coloss proportion, naked arms, a plumed helmet
-on her head, the Gorgonian _Ægis_ on her breast: the very marble is not
-without its terror.
-
-We shall now pass through the house. The hall is a fine lofty room: in
-the niches are several statues; a Greek lady with her arms folded under
-the drapery, which with that of the under garment are perfectly seen
-through the robe; Caius Marius in a senatorial habit; Cupid asleep,
-leaning on his torch: M. Antony, a naked figure; all these as big as
-the life: over the chimney-piece, a little Hercules tearing the lion;
-seven bustos, an excellent one of Pindar; one said to be of Olympias,
-I fancied it Lucretia. By the great stairs, painted in _fresco_ by Sir
-James Thornhill, two bustos, one of the Grecian Venus. In niches upon
-the stairs, six statues as big as the life: Diana in a hunting-habit,
-a tuck’d-up coat, buskins of skins; a lady in Greek drapery; the Venus
-de Medicis; Paris with a mantle, the Phrygian bonnet, and odd stockings
-of the Dacian mode; (this is a statue of great antiquity;) a nymph
-with a long flowing garment tied under the breast, a fine turn of the
-body; a man, the right shoulder naked. In the little dining-room, over
-the chimney, an antique marble vase. In the green-house I saw these
-following: a Flora, the upper part lost; most inimitable drapery to
-show the naked, like the celebrated one at Rome: a coloss head of
-Apollo, from the collar bone to the crown of the head three foot; the
-body is said to lie among many more under Arundel house in London: the
-trunk of Camilla, both arms: a young Bacchus.
-
-[Sidenote: +Towcester+ Roman.]
-
-Towcester is a pretty town, of Roman antiquity: through it in a strait
-line runs the Watling-street. Edward the elder built the mount called
-Berry hill when he fortified the town against the Danes. Roman coins
-have been oft found at this place.[34] The inhabitants here, both old
-and young, are very busy in a silken manufacture, and making of lace.
-This town has been ditched about on the west side; every where else
-guarded by the rivers.
-
-[Sidenote: +Buckingham.+]
-
-From hence we went through spacious woods to Buckingham. There was a
-castle before the Conquest, but now scarce to be known. The church is
-well built, particularly the chancel: they showed us a place called St.
-Rumbald’s shrine, where his coffin was taken up. St. John Baptist’s
-chapel, built, as said, by archbishop Becket, is now a free school.
-From this place we travelled upon a Roman road.
-
-[Sidenote: +Alauna.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. V. VI. 2d Vol.]
-
-Entering Oxfordshire, we saw on our right the park called Caversfield,
-which antiquaries say was the place where Allectus slew Carausius.
-This is near Bicester, which I visited big with expectation of finding
-somewhat considerable from a conflux of towns’ names that promised
-much. I observed Lawnton hard by, which seemed to confirm Mr.
-Baxter’s conjecture of Alauna hereabouts. Chesterton, Aldchester, and
-Wandlebury, were specious marks for enquiry; but I find they all depend
-upon Aldchester, where was the undoubted Alauna of Ravennas, mentioned
-thus in that valuable author. Next to London, Tamese, Branavis, Alauna;
-of all which I shall give an account in this journey.
-
-[Illustration: 5·2ᵈ. _Prospect of Aldchester near Bicester._ Alauna.
-
- _Stukeley delin._ _E. Kirkall sculp._]
-
-[Illustration: 6·2ᵈ. +Alavna.+
-
- _Stukeley del._ _E. Kirkall sculp._]
-
-[Sidenote: +Akeman-street.+]
-
-South of Bicester about a mile, two Roman roads cross one another
-at right angles, in the middle of a large and beautiful meadow; the
-Akeman-street running east and west, and another directly north and
-south: the first comes out of Buckinghamshire, I imagine from Fenny
-Stratford through Winslow; passes by here at Longford, over Bicester
-river, under the north side of Gravenhall hill; so proceeds by
-Aldchester, Kirklington, to Woodstock park, and so to Cirencester: the
-other crosses it at Aldchester, running directly through the middle of
-the city; then through the southern meadow belonging to Wandlebury,
-where it is visible enough to a nice eye, the grass being poor, and
-much abates of the verdure for its whole breadth: then entering a
-pasture, it is very plain, being elevated into a ridge of a hundred
-foot breadth, and two little ditches all along the sides: it leaves
-Marton on the east and Fencot, making fords over the brooks, paved
-with great broad stones its whole breadth; then proceeds the length
-of Ottmore, a spacious level, marsh or meadow, two or three miles
-together, where its ridge is plain, though broken by many sloughs; then
-through Beckly by the park wall; then under Shotover hill, and so, I
-suppose, passes the Thames at Sandford below Oxford. Northward from
-Alauna it proceeds through the northern meadow belonging to Chesterton
-and Bicester, where the stones it is composed of may be seen in the
-little ditches they have dug upon each side; then it enters the lane,
-and goes on the west side of Bicester town, at some little distance,
-and strait forwards on the east of Caverfield park by Stretton Audley,
-where many Roman coins have been found; and so to Radley by Buckingham,
-being now the great high road between the two towns, of which we may
-say, in the poet’s words,
-
- _Scilicet hæc ævi stravit longinqua vetustas,
- Heu nimis ex vero nunc ea strata jacent!_
-
-The city called now Aldchester is a parcel of ploughed field, on the
-south side of the Akeman way, a mile at least south of Bicester:
-it stands in the middle of the meadow, which is very level, more
-especially stretching itself north and south of the city. I know not
-whether the ground which is the site of the city be naturally higher,
-or raised by the ruins and rubbish thereof: but, if any, this deserves
-to be called _urbs pratensis_. I can scarce believe that this meadow
-was so subject to inundations as now, at the time of setting the city
-here; and I never observed the like position elsewhere, when there is
-higher ground near enough: it may be thought rather a city of pleasure
-than strength. A very little way off to the east is Gravenhall hill, a
-copped hill curiously covered with wood and hedge-rows: beyond it is
-Berry hill, or vulgarly the Brill, guarded at top with one of their
-camps. A little brook comes from Chesterton, a mile off, and runs on
-the south side of the city; for between that and the Akeman way is it
-placed. When I came upon the spot, I soon found it by the prodigious
-blackness and richness of the earth, as they were ploughing; and
-this shows it to have been once in a very flourishing condition and
-populous; for the fund of nitrous particles and animal salts lodged
-in this earth are inexhaustible. The site of this city is a common,
-belonging to the inhabitants of Wandlebury, and every one has a
-certain little portion of it to plough up; whence we may well imagine
-the land is racked to the last extremity, and no great care taken in
-the management of it: yet it bears very good crops of wheat. As I
-traversed the spot, at every step I saw pieces of pots and vessels,
-of all sorts of coloured earth,[35] red, green, and some perfectly
-of blue clay, that came from Aynhoe: I picked up several parcels,
-thinking to have carried them away, till I perceived them strown
-very thick over the whole field, together with bits of bricks of all
-sorts: the husbandmen told me they frequently break their ploughs
-against foundations of hewn stone and brick; and we saw upon the spot
-many paving stones with a smooth face, and laid in a very good bed
-of gravel, till they draw them all up by degrees, when the plough
-chances to go a little deeper than ordinary. Infinite numbers of coins
-have been found, and dispersed over the adjacent villages without
-any regard; and after a shower of rain now, they say, sometimes they
-find them: I got two or three of Tetricus jun. &c. A good while ago,
-they dug up a glass urn full of ashes, laid in a cavity cut out of a
-stone: I went to see the stone, used as a pig-trough, at Wandlebury,
-in which office it has served ever since Dr. Plot’s time; for I find
-he mentions it, page 329: it is squarish, the cavity is roundish, nine
-inches deep, and a foot diameter; but the urn was broke and lost. I
-heard likewise, by enquiry, that they have found brass images, _lares_,
-and all sorts of antiquities, which I encouraged them to preserve for
-the future. This city was fenced with a bank and ditch quite round:
-it is a square of one thousand foot each side, standing upon the four
-cardinal points: the _vallum_ and ditch are sufficiently visible,
-though both have met with equal change; the _vallum_, from the plough,
-which levels it to a certain quantity every year; and the inundation of
-the meadow raises the ditch: these are most easily discernible at the
-corners, for there they are still pretty perfect, and so notoriously,
-that the country people tell you in those places were four towers to
-defend the city. This little brook, that runs on the southern ditch,
-encompassed the city quite round originally: the track of the way that
-passes the city in the middle from south to north, is still very high
-raised, and another street crossed it the contrary way in the middle,
-and so went eastward, meeting the Akeman in its way to Langford: these
-were the two principal streets, and doubtless there were others; and
-great foundations are known to be all around in the meadows, especially
-northward and eastward upon both sides the Akeman. On the west side of
-the city, a little distance from the ditch, is an artificial hill in
-the very middle of the meadow which they call the Castle hill, and is
-full of Roman bricks, stone, and foundations. I attentively considered
-this place: the circuit of it is very plain and definable; it was a
-square of two hundred foot: I guess it originally to have been some
-considerable building in the middle of an _area_, or court; whether a
-_pretorium_, or a temple, might probably be ascertained upon digging:
-the edge of the _area_ is very distinct upon the meadow, by the
-difference in the colour of the grass, the one gray, the other green;
-but the main body of the building reached not so far, but lies in a
-great heap of rubbish, much elevated, and of much less extent: before
-it, to the south, has been another _area_, paved with a bed of gravel,
-at least above a hundred foot broad: I doubt not but a curious person,
-that will be at the expence of digging this plot, would find it
-well worth his while. This is the sum of what I observed at the place:
-whether the present name be Alcester, as retaining any thing of the
-Latin, or Aldcester, signifying the old city, I dispute not; but think
-it has no manner of relation to Allectus that slew the brave Carausius.
-The name of Akeman way I am fit to think a vulgar error, as commonly
-imagined from going to the Bath:[36] more probably it is _ag maen_,
-the stony _agger_, or ridge; this is confirmed by the people calling
-the other road too, that goes north and south, by the same name,
-Akeman-street. There has been a religious house at Bicester near the
-church, a priory of St. Eadburg, founded by Gilbert Basset. This town
-is famous for excellent malt liquor, of a delicate taste and colour.
-
-[Illustration: 7·2ᵈ. _Prospect of Tame._ +Tamese.+ _14 Sept. 1724._
-
- _Stukeley delin._ _E. Kirkall Sculp._]
-
-[Sidenote: +Bury-hill+ Ro. _camp_.]
-
-From hence we journeyed by Aynhoe, where is a vein of stiff clay,
-exceeding blue: at Souldern is a curious barrow, neatly turned like a
-bell, small and high; I believe it Celtic. Then climbing for a long
-while together, we ascended Bury hill, a village upon the highest
-copped mountain in the country: it is vulgarly called the Brill, as Mr.
-Camden takes notice: this has a vast prospect over Bernwood, Ottmore,
-and the whole country, bounded only by the superior Chiltern, seven
-miles off, which hence has a most notable aspect, and ends insensibly
-at the eastern and western horizon, diminishing regularly all the way:
-at the top of the Brill, by the church, I saw parcels of the old Roman
-camp, which has been modernised with additional bastions in the civil
-wars. Before the Conquest, here was a palace of Edward the Confessor.
-Much Roman coin has been found hereabout.
-
-[Sidenote: +Tamese.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. VII. 2d Vol.]
-
-Below here, two or three miles off, stands Tamese, now Tame, upon the
-side of a meadow; a pleasant town, consisting of one long and broad
-street, running north-east and south-west: behind lie the smiling
-arable fields: it is almost encompassed with rivulets. This was called
-a _burg_ in the time of Edward the elder, anno 921, who besieged the
-Danes here, and took the burg, or castle. I saw infinite quantities
-of the _cornu ammonis_, a foot and half or two foot diameter, laid in
-the roads among rubble stone to mend them: all the quarries hereabouts
-abound with them of all dimensions. Here is a fine large church in form
-of a cross: in it many brasses and old monuments: some I transcribed.
-
-_Thome de Grey filii Roberti dni. de Grey Retherfeld militis obiit anno
-dni. millesimo_ ccc. Another thus.
-
- O certyn deth that now hast overthrowe
- Richard Quatremayns squier and Sibil his wyf that ly her now full
- lowe
- That with rial prinses of councel was true and wise famed
- To Richard duke of Yorke and after with his sone king Edward IIII
- named
- That founded in the chyrche of Tame a chantrye six pore men and a
- fraternity
- In the worship of St. Christofere to be relieved in perpetuitye
- They that of their almys for their sowles a _pater noster_ and
- _ave_ devoutly wul seye
- Of holy fadurs is granted them pardun of days xl alway.
-
-Which Richard and Sibil out of this world passed in the yer of our lord
-M. cccclx. upon their sowles jhu have mercy amen. Another thus.
-
-_Orate pro animabus Galfredi Dormer mercatoris Stapile ville Calis &
-Margere & Alicie uxoris ejus qui quidem Galfridus ob. 9 Mar. 1502.
-quorum_ _animabus propicietur deus amen._ There are the images of
-twenty-five children upon this stone.
-
-John lord Williams of Tame baronet, baron of Tame, ob. 14 Oct. 1559.
-
-Here lyeth Sir John Clerk of Northweston knight which tuke Lovys of
-Orleance duke of Longuevill and marquis of Rotelin prysoner at the
-journy of Bomy by Tyrvain the xvi day of August in the v yer of the
-reign of the noble and victorious king Henry viii. which John decesed
-the v day of April 1539.
-
-There is an abbot (I suppose) in stone in the church wall of the south
-transept within side: near the church are the ruins of a priory built
-by Alexander bishop of Lincoln. At Notely, not far off, is another. A
-pot of Roman money was found at Sherburn in this neighbourhood last
-year.
-
-[Sidenote: +Islip.+]
-
-Islip is memorable for the birth of Edward the Confessor. The font
-which stood in the king’s chapel, as still called, where he was
-baptised, is removed: but that font in Dr. Plot seems not of such
-antiquity. There are some remains of an ancient palace.
-
-[Sidenote: +Oxford.+]
-
-Oxford requires a more elaborate description than a stranger can
-possibly give; and indeed so numerous are the colleges and halls, that
-one can scarce get a tolerable idea of them in the three days I staid
-here. The prospect of this place from Shotover hill is very inviting,
-nor is our expectation frustrated when in the place. The bridge over
-the Cherwel is a stately work, twice as broad as London bridge.
-Magdalen college, the legacy of our countryman, William of Wainflet,
-which he endowed with a princely hand, deservedly is thought one of the
-noblest foundations in Europe: the old oak is still left, nigh which
-he ordered it to be built. A vast tract of ground is inclosed with a
-castellated wall for gardens. On the other side the river is a park
-too, with long shady walks, but too near the water, wherein likewise
-more resembling those of Academus by Athens. The chapel is large and
-magnificent: the tower is a lofty strong work, in it a fine ring of
-bells: the whimsical figures in the quadrangle, over the buttresses,
-amuse the vulgar; they are the licentious inventions of the mason.
-Over-against this is the physic garden, whose curiosities Mr. Bobart
-showed us, and his own: since his death, its purpose is not so well
-executed. Here are remarkably fine greens in all the gardens at Oxford,
-especially in yew: the two piers here, with flower-pots on them,
-are thought to exceed; but the two yew men (as one waggishly called
-them) that guard the door, are ridiculous; the architecture of these
-gates is, I suppose, of Inigo Jones: two _sphynges_ at the entrance
-are properly placed: these are without the city walls. University
-college has a new quadrangle built by legacy of Dr. Radcliffe; but
-I think uniformity, in this and other structures in the university,
-no sufficient reason for using the old manner of building. Queen’s
-college over-against it is of a good taste, improved to its present
-splendor under the auspices, and in great degree at the charge, of the
-late Dr. Lancaster. The library, the hall, and chapel, are beautiful.
-The old gatehouse has a pretty cieling over it of stone; they say it
-was the chamber of Harry the Vth’s uncle and tutor. Behind it is New
-college; a large chapel, a good visto to the garden, in which is a
-pleasant mount: this was the foundation of William of Wickham, bishop
-of Winchester: it stands in an angle of the old city walls. At All
-Souls a new court is building, but in the anachronism of the Gothic
-degenerate taste: the new library is a spacious room, the legacy of
-colonel Coddrington: the chapel is very elegant; the altar, entirely
-of marble, was made at the charge of George Clark, esq. one of the
-fellows. Christ church, the magnificent work of cardinal Wolsey: the
-stone cieling over the entrance to the hall is very pretty; the new
-quadrangle, designed by the learned Dr. Aldrich, is beautiful. St.
-John’s college has two handsome quadrangles, the portico’s built by
-archbishop Laud: two fine statues, in brass, of king Charles I. and his
-queen, probably designed by Inigo Jones. But it is impossible for me
-to run through the whole of this splendid university, which I leave as
-a fitter task for some of her own learned sons. The school is a large
-building: the Bodleian library, an immense store-house of most valuable
-books and manuscripts, the donation of archbishop Laud, the earl of
-Pembroke, O. Cromwell, Selden, Digby, Bodley, and other great names:
-over it is a spacious gallery, adorned with pictures of founders,
-benefactors, and others, and with the antique marbles which were the
-learned part of the inexhaustible collection of the earl of Arundel:
-these have been illustrated with the accurate comments of Selden and
-Prideaux. Here are some of the most valuable Greek monuments now in the
-world. Over the porch, upon a handsome pedestal of black marble, stands
-the brass effigies of the earl of Pembroke, their noble and generous
-chancellor, given by the present earl: this was moulded by Rubens. Here
-is likewise a very large collection of Greek, Roman, British, Saxon,
-English, and other coins, presented by several hands. The divinity
-schools, finished by Humphry the good duke of Gloucester, have a very
-curious stone roof. The Ashmolean repository, beside some good books,
-papers and MSS. of the founder, has a large collection of rarities in
-antiquity, nature and art, &c. such as original pictures of famous men,
-marbles of old Egyptian carving in figures and hieroglyphics, a fine
-marble inscription in Arabic, which was over the door of a school at
-Tangier; an Egyptian mummy, being a man dressed like _orus Apollo_;
-the cradle of Henry VI. the hat of Bradshaw plaited with steel within,
-under which he sat in judgment upon king Charles I. a vast fund of
-precious and other stones, &c. which it is impossible to enumerate.
-Here is, beside, a choice apparatus of instruments for chymistry and
-experimental philosophy under the direction of Mr. Whiteside. The
-printing-house is a good building with a bold portico, but next the
-schools disgraced with a wretched statue of my lord Clarendon. Between
-these two last and the schools stands the Sheldonian theatre, the
-first piece of architecture of Sir Christopher Wren, a spacious and
-well-proportioned room: it is worth while to go upon the top of it,
-to see the carpentry of the roof, and the fine prospect of the city
-and country thence. Before Baliol college they showed us the stone in
-the street which marks the place of the barbarous martyrdom of the
-venerable archbishop Cranmer and bishop Ridley, then upon the banks of
-the ditch without the walls of the city, which went along where the
-theatre now stands. Beyond the river, amongst meadows encompassed with
-rivulets, stood Oseney abbey, founded by Robert D’oyley 1129.[37] upon
-the bridge is a tower called Friar Bacon’s Study, from that famous and
-learned monk, who in dark ages had penetrated so far into the secrets
-of nature. Oxford, no doubt, means no more than the passage over the
-river Ox, Ouse, or Isis, which are equivalents. Over another bridge of
-the Isis we went to see Ruleigh abbey, where some ruins and parcels
-still remain, turned to a common brew-house: a disjointed stone in
-a partition wall preserves this monumental inscription, *Elae de
-Warwik comitissae viscera sunt hic*. This Ela was daughter of Wil.
-Longspee earl of Salisbury, and wife of Thomas de Newburgh the last
-earl of Warwick of that name: she died on Sunday the fifth of the ides
-of February, 26 Ed. I. 1297. she gave lands to this abbey, and founded
-a chapel here, as appears by an inscription dug up 1705. her body was
-buried before the high altar at Oseney, her heart in this place. Of the
-castle there is a square high tower remaining by the river side, and a
-lofty mount or keep walled at top, with a stair-case going downward:
-this seems to have been a very strong place, built by Robert de Oili in
-the time of William the Conqueror. If there was a town here in Roman
-times, it seems to have been in this quarter. The White-friars was a
-royal palace; and near a green called Beaumonds, they showed us the
-bottom of a tower upon the ground where the valiant Richard I. _Cœur
-de lion_, was born. Without the town on all sides may be seen the
-remains of the fortifications raised in the time of the civil wars.
-It is in vain to pretend in this paper to enumerate the particular
-remarkables of every college, which are eighteen in number, and seven
-halls: these for beauty, grandeur, and endowment, no doubt, exceed any
-thing: their chapels, halls, libraries, quadrangles, piazzas; their
-gardens, walks, groves, and every thing, contribute to make the first
-university in the world. As to the city, though the colleges make up
-two thirds of it, and are continually eating it away, in buying whole
-streets for enlargement; yet it is large, regular, and crouds itself
-out proportionably: the streets are spacious, handsome, clean, and
-strait; the whole place pleasant and healthful; the inhabitants genteel
-and courteous: the churches are many and elegant enough, especially
-Allhallows, a neat fabric of modern architecture, with a very handsome
-spire. St. Peter’s in the east is venerable for its antiquity: the east
-end by its fabric appears prior to the time of the Conquest.
-
-Leaving this famous repository of learning, we saw on our left hand, on
-the other side of the river, the last ruins of Godstow nunnery, placed
-among the sweet meadows: here fair Rosamond, the beloved mistress of
-Henry II. had a tomb remarkably fine; but before the dissolution,
-scarce could her ashes rest, whose beauty was thought guilty even after
-death.
-
-[Sidenote: +Woodstock.+]
-
-At Woodstock we saw part of the old palace, and her famous labyrinth,
-which is since destroyed: her bathing-place, or well (as called) is
-left, a quadrangular receptacle of most pure water, immediately flowing
-from a little spring under the hill, and over-shadowed with trees:
-near it some few ruins of walls and arches. King Ethelred called a
-parliament here; it has been a royal seat from most ancient times:
-Henry I. inclosed the park. A-cross this valley was a remarkably fine
-echo, that would repeat a whole hexameter, but impaired by the removal
-of these buildings. A stately bridge from hence now leads along the
-grand approach to the present castle: one arch is above a hundred foot
-diameter: a cascade of water falls from a great lake down some stone
-steps into the canal that runs under it.
-
-The new palace is a vast and magnificent pile of building; a royal gift
-to the high merit of the invincible duke of Marlborough; the lofty
-hall is painted by Sir James Thornhill; the salon by la Guerre: the
-rooms are finely enriched with marble chimney-pieces and furniture, but
-more by the incomparable paintings: many of Rubens’s best and largest
-pieces; that celebrated one of himself, his wife, and child, among
-others; Vandyke’s king Charles I. upon a dun horse, of great value;
-and the famous loves of the Gods, by Titian, a present from the king
-of Sardinia. The gallery I admired beyond any thing I have seen, lined
-with marble pilasters and whole pillars of one piece, supporting a most
-costly and beautiful entablature, excellent for matter and workmanship:
-the window frames of the same, and a basement of black marble quite
-round. Before it is stretched out a most agreeable prospect of the fine
-woods beyond the great valley: it is indeed of an admirable model:
-this, and what is of the most elegant taste in the whole house, is of
-the duchess’s own designing. The chapel is not yet finished, and which
-I doubt not will be equal to the rest. The garden is a large plot of
-ground taken out of the park, and may still be said to be part of it;
-well contrived by sinking the outer wall into a foss, to give one a
-view quite round, and take off the odious appearance of confinement
-and limitation to the eye, and which quite spoils the pleasure and
-intention of a garden: within, it is well adorned with walks, greens,
-espaliers, and visto’s to diverse remarkable objects that offer
-themselves in the circumjacent country. Over the pediment of this
-front of the house is a curious busto in marble of the French king,
-bigger than life, taken from the gate of the citadel of Tournay. The
-orangery is a pretty room. At the entrance hither from the town, her
-grace has erected a noble triumphal arch to the memory of the duke, and
-has projected a vast obelisk to be set in the principal avenue in the
-park, whereon is to be inscribed an account of his great actions and
-ability in council, and in war. Near the gate is the house where our
-famous Chaucer was born: methinks there was somewhat poetical in the
-ground that first gave him birth, and produced these verses, which I
-ask pardon for inserting, upon a subject which his genius only could be
-equal to:
-
- _Fame, like the optic artist, wont to swell
- The object larger to the armed eye,
- Sing on, and mighty Marlborough’s actions tell:
- Secure from flattery in words abound,
- And let thy trumpet diapasons sound;
- Speak but enough of him, ’tis all reality._
-
-[Sidenote: +Stunsfield+, Ro. _town_.]
-
-Through the park we crossed again the Akeman-street, which runs all
-along with a perfect ridge made of stone, dug every where near the
-surface: it bears between north-east and east: it is a foot-path still
-through the park with a stile, and a road beyond it by which it passes
-to Stunsfield, where are marks of an intrenched work, once a Roman
-station: and in the place they found (the 25th Jan. 1712.) a most
-curious tesselated pavement, for bulk and beauty the most considerable
-one we know of: it was a parallelogram of thirty-five foot long and
-twenty foot wide, a noble room, and no doubt designed for feasting and
-jollity: in one of the circular works was Bacchus represented in stones
-properly coloured, with a tiger, a _thyrsus_ in his hand enwrapped with
-vine leaves. This admirable curiosity deserved a better owner; for the
-landlord and tenant quarreling about sharing the profits of showing
-it, the latter maliciously tore it in pieces. When the earth was first
-laid open upon its discovery, they found it covered a foot thick with
-burnt wheat, barley and pease: so that we may guess upon some enemy’s
-approach it was covered with those matters to prevent its being
-injured, or was turned into a barn and burnt.
-
-We crossed a foss called Grimesditch, the _vallum_ eastward: it goes by
-Ditchley wood and house, which takes its name from it. Dr. Plot does
-not sufficiently distinguish this from a Roman road: it was doubtless
-some division of the ancient Britons: the country is all a rock of
-rag-stone. Many good seats of the nobility hereabouts; Cornbury lord
-Clarendon’s, Ditchley lord Litchfield’s, duke of Shrewsbury’s at
-Hathorp, new built of stone very beautiful. Juniper grows plentifully
-hereabouts. At Chadlington is a square Roman camp. At Enston is a
-pretty curiosity in water-works, cascades falling down artificial rocks
-overgrown with waterplants, chirping of birds imitated, many pipes of
-water, secretly to dash the spectators, and fancies of that kind.
-
-[Sidenote: +Chipping-norton.+]
-
-Chipping-Norton must have been a great trading town by the number of
-merchants, as they are there called, buried in the church under brasses
-and inscriptions: others of alabaster: and the name of the place
-signifies it, as our Cheapside, equivalent to market, to buying or
-cheapening. There are marks of a castle by the church, which probably
-was demolished in the time of king Stephen. Lord Arundel, beheaded in
-the barons wars, lived in it: a place called the Vineyards near it.
-Roman coins are frequently found here. The church is a good building of
-a curious model, the south porch hexagonal, and a little roof over it
-supported by a stone arch: under the choir is a charnel-house full of
-the ruined rafters of mortality. A priory was here near Chapel on the
-heath: the Talbot inn was religious: stories of subterraneous passages
-thence to the priory. A well lately found in the ploughed fields at
-Woodstock hill, a mile south of this place, and more such like in the
-fields. Hereabouts they call camps _barrows_, meaning boroughs.
-
-[Sidenote: +Rowldrich.+ Br. _temple_.]
-
-Hence we rode to see Rowldrich stones, a very noble monument; the first
-antiquity of this sort that I had seen, and from which I concluded
-these works to be temples of the ancient Britons. I crave leave to
-reserve its description for another work. In the clay upon these hills
-they dig out _cornua ammonis_, small, but very prettily notched: they
-are nothing but clay hardened in the shell. Further on, in Tadmerton
-parish, we rode through a large round camp on the top of a hill doubly
-intrenched, able to contain a great army. Bloxham has a very fine
-church, the steeple of an odd make, but pretty enough. At Broughton
-near Banbury is the seat of the lord Say and Seal.
-
-[Sidenote: +Branavis.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. VIII. 2d Vol.]
-
-Banbury was a Roman station, called _Branavis_. That master builder the
-bishop of Lincoln, Alexander, built the castle anno 1125, I doubt not
-but upon the Roman fortification: he enlarged it and built it after
-the mode of those times, taking in a huge space of ground with a wall,
-towers and ditch: within he made another work upon one side, where were
-the lodgings, chapel, &c. A small part of the wall of this is only now
-left, of good hewn stone; but the ditch went along the middle of the
-adjacent street, and houses are built by the side of it, out of its
-ruins, as people now alive remember: in the civil wars it received
-new additional works, for there are plain remains of four bastions; a
-brook running without them. Many Roman coins and antiquities have been
-found here. There is an inn called the Altarstone inn, from an altar
-which stood in a nich under the sign: this had a ram and fire carved
-on it, as they say: part of the stone is still left: I imagine this
-was originally a Roman altar: they tell us William the Conqueror lay
-at this inn. The town is a large straggling place and dirty, though on
-a rock with sufficient descent: one would think it was walled about in
-most ancient times. Here are three gates, though of later make. The
-tower of the church, they say, was much higher than at present: the
-church is of great compass: three rows of pillars, but of too slender
-a manner, which makes them all lean awry, and different ways: many
-additions have been made to it: a touch-stone monument of the family
-of Cope: other old monuments ruined. The bridge is long, consisting
-of many arches. _Branau supercilium aquæ_ seems well to answer the
-etymology of the Roman name, as Mr. Baxter has it: The stone of
-this country is mixed with sand. Black gloves is a great manufacture
-here. Kenric the West-Saxon king, anno 540, routed the Britons at this
-place.
-
-[Illustration: 8·2ᵈ. _Prospect of Banbury._ +Branavis.+ _13. Sept.
- 1724._
-
- _Stukeley delin._ _E. Kirkall sculp._]
-
-[Illustration: 9·2ᵈ. _Prospect of Warwick_ _July 7ᵗʰ. 1725_
-
- _Stukeley del._ _Fletcher Sculp._
-
- PRAESIDIUM]
-
-We went over the vale of Red-horse and Edghill, which presents us with
-a most extensive prospect, steep to the north: on the top of it, at
-Warmleighton, is a large and strong intrenchment of a circular but
-irregular form, said to be Danish by the inhabitants, but seemingly
-more ancient and British. Descending the hill for a mile, we rode
-through Radway, and over the field between it and Kyneton, where the
-famous battle of Edghill was fought: we were shown some of the graves
-of the slain. At Tellisford we crossed the Foss-way.
-
-[Sidenote: +Præsidium.+ Warwick.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. IX. 2d Vol.]
-
-Warwick is situate on a rock, a fine new-built town, having been almost
-wholly burnt down in 1694. The church and lofty tower is new built,
-except the east end, which is old and very good work: there are a many
-fine brass monuments of the earls of Warwick and others, as the earl of
-Essex; many chapels and confessionaries, with other remains of ancient
-superstition: in the chapter-house on the north side is a tomb of the
-lord Brook. The castle stands upon the river Avon, over which is a
-stone bridge with a dozen arches: across is a large stone-work dam,
-where the water falls over it as a cascade, under the castle wall,
-which is built on a rock forty foot above the water. It overlooks the
-whole town and country, being delicately situate for pleasure and
-strength, fenced with a deep mound and strong embattled double walls
-and lofty towers: there are good apartments and lodgings next the
-river, the residence of the lord Brook: on one side of the area is a
-very high mount: we were shown the sword and other gigantic reliques
-of Guy the famous earl of Warwick. The priory on the north-east side
-of the town overlooks a pleasant woody vale: there are a great many
-curious original pictures, by Vandike and other good hands, of kings,
-queens, famous statesmen, persons of learning both at home and abroad.
-A mile out of town, on the side of a hill, is a pretty retired cell,
-called Guy-cliffe: in an old chapel there is a statue of Guy eight foot
-high: the fence of the court is intire rock, in which are cut stables
-and out-houses. We saw the rough cave where they say Guy died a hermit.
-
-[Sidenote: +Coventry+.]
-
-Coventry is a large old city: it was walled about: the gates are
-yet standing. It is adorned with a fine and very large church and
-beautiful spire a hundred yards high. There is another good church in
-the same yard. The cross is a beautiful Gothic work, sixty six foot
-high: in niches are the statues of the English kings. At the south end
-of the town stands a tall spire by itself, part of the Grey Friers’
-conventual church. The town-house is worth seeing: the windows filled
-with painted glass of the images of the old earls, kings, &c. who have
-been benefactors to the town. Here the famous lady Godiva redeemed the
-privileges thereof almost at the expence of her modesty, the memory
-whereof is preserved by an annual cavalcade. These verses are wrote in
-the town-house.
-
- _Auxiliis olim stetit alma Coventria regum
- Dum fortuna fuit. Magnos colit hinc Edoardos
- Henricosque suos, urbs non ingrata patronos.
- Jamque adeo afflictis crescit spes altera rebus
- Elizabetha tuis princeps mitissima sceptris.
- Lætior illuxit nullo pax rege Britannis.
- Ergo age diva tuis sis fœlix civibus usque,
- Exuperans patrias & avitas æmula laudes._
-
- _Princeps ille niger (niveis cui vertice pennis
- Crista minax, victi regis cæsique Bohæmi
- Exuviis) heros Edoardus magnus in armis,
- Hic sedem posuit. Sic dicta est principis aula.
- Hoc authore fuit libertas civibus aucta,
- Muneribusque ornata suis, res publica crevit.
- Hinc depicta, vides, passim sua penna per urbem
- Testatur magni monumentum & pignus amoris._
-
- _Labentes fatis (quid enim perdurat in ævum?)
- Fortunas urbis tandem miseratus agrorum
- Extendit fines, Northumbrius ille Johannes.
- Cumque fuit bello dux invictissimus, armis
- In mediis coluit pacis, vir providus, artes;
- Exemploque suum vocat ad pia facta Robertum._
-
- _Non tantum meruit Leofricus Cestrius olim
- Nec conjux Godiva, pii dux fœmina facti.
- Godiva ab turpi quæ lege coacta mariti
- Fertur equo, diffusa comas nudata per urbem.
- Asseruitque suos, culpent utcunque minores!
- Vicit amor patriæ libertatisque cupido:
- Quantum hodie patrem referens Leicestrius heros
- Retro sublapsam qui nostram restituit rem,
- Sustinet in pejus ruituram urbisque salutem.
- I modo quo virtus te fert, sic itur ad astra.
- Et quibus insistis fœlix, procede paternis
- Auspiciis, maneatque tuos hæc cura nepotes._
-
- Holbech, May 1712.
-
-
-
-
- ITER CIMBRICUM. III.
-
- ——_quid virtus & quid sapientia possit
- Utile proposuit nobis exemplar Ulyssem.
- Qui domitor Trojæ, multorum providus urbes
- Et mores hominum inspexit_—— +Hor.+
-
-
- _To_ RICHARD MYDDLETON MASSEY
- _of_ Wisbech, _M. D._
-
-To you of right I inscribe this journey, to which your company and my
-inclination to see somewhat of the world allured me. I had conceived
-great notions of the old Britons betimes, and longed to hear at least
-a language spoke soon after the deluge; and I then prided myself as
-much as Cæsar formerly in making this small inroad into their country.
-I willingly take this occasion of recognizing how I ought to esteem
-it a happiness, that you chanced to be seated in a place so near that
-of my nativity, and presented to me a subject of imitation, in all
-the commendable qualifications that may conduce to the felicity and
-ornament of life. Your deep insight into the _materia medica_, the
-theory and practice of physic, your great knowledge of antiquities,
-natural history, and all polite learning, and the excellence of your
-hand in designing, were as so many spurs to me in my young years, when
-we are most apt at imitation: and that the latter exercise of the pen
-is of importance to all the others, is too notorious, and universally
-allowed by all, to need any solemn proof. Who sees not that the defeats
-and confusion in anatomy and botany, and every part of philosophy,
-is owing to the want of drawing? when the innumerable labours of so
-many ages are either lost to posterity, or imperfectly transmitted,
-for that reason. How well does this range and distinguish ideas, and
-imprint them in one’s own mind, as well as make them known to others?
-It is not to be disputed but a person that understands it, sees much
-farther into things than others: the beauties of art and nature are
-open to him. Indeed every body is pleased with perfection and beauty,
-though they know not why: as suppose that of a fine statue, they are
-hugely delighted with it, though they understand not that it is owing
-to the proper disposition and contrast of the limbs, to the attitude,
-the grace of the posture, the expression of the action, the light and
-shade, and a thousand other requisites, as well as the particular
-delicacy and outline of the parts and members: and these things are
-only to be learnt and gathered from Nature’s self, from copying and
-observing it; for she is the grand exemplar of all fine strokes in
-drawing; as Aristotle formed his Art of Poetry from the great genius
-of Homer, and he from the force of Nature.
-
-[Sidenote: +Grantham.+]
-
-Grantham was certainly a Roman town. Burton in his Commentaries on
-Antoninus’s Itinerary relates, that a great stone trough, covered with
-a stone, was dug up there, full of Roman coins, p. 216.[38] The street
-that runs on the east of the church is called Castle-street: between
-it and the river have been dug up foundations of a castle, as they
-say.[39] I have a piece of glass with enamel upon it, ground with an
-engine; which is curious, and I take it for Roman: it was found in the
-Grange garden. Here is a spacious church and fine spire, much noted:
-it is a hundred yards high, equalled by another in this county, Louth,
-besides the tower of Boston: under the south wall of this church are
-two tomb-stones, said to be of the founders; one in old French, the
-date only legible, 1362; the other, *hic jacent ricard de calceby et
-margareta vx ejus m ccclxii*. On a stone in a wall in Church-lane
-this inscription (the _orate pro anima_ seems to have been cut out by
-order of some zealot) *Iohis Goldsmyth mercatoris de Grantham*, a
-coat of arms, quarterly; in the sinister upper quarter a mullet. There
-were many religious houses here, some reliques of them left: in one
-just by the market-place is a very pretty little chapel, or oratory,
-adorned with imagery. The Angel inn was once a commandery. Here is a
-good free-school, erected by Richard Fox bishop of Winchester, where
-Sir Isaac Newton received the first principles of literature, under
-the famous William Walker then school-master.[40] Belvoir, the seat of
-the dukes of Rutland, stands on a high hill with a very fine prospect:
-you may see Nottingham castle and Lincoln minster, and all around you,
-below, many towns and lordships the demesnes of this noble family. Here
-is a perfect pattern of the true old English hospitality. In the fine
-gallery are many ancient and modern family pictures and others; the
-original one of king Charles I. as he sat at his trial. This place was
-the possession of Robert de Totney,[41] a great man who came in with
-William the Conqueror: he built a priory near it. I imagine originally
-here was a Roman camp; for coins have been found about it.[42] Upon
-the edge of Lincolnshire we visited the tombs of the duke of Rutland’s
-family at Bottesworth, which are worth seeing.
-
-[Sidenote: +Nottingham.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XXXIX.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XXXVIII.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XIV.]
-
-Nottingham we arrived at after crossing the Roman road called Foss:
-it is a pleasant and beautiful town. They have a great manufacture
-here for stockings, which they weave in looms from the invention of
-a neighbouring clergyman. Their ale is highly valued for softness
-and pleasant taste: the cellars in the town are hewn out of
-the rock two or three story deep, to fourscore steps sometimes. The
-castle is a goodly building on a high perpendicular rock; seems to
-have been modelled after some of Inigo Jones’s draughts: many good
-pictures there: it commands a vast prospect. The south side of the
-rock is altogether inaccessible: a winding stair-case along it to the
-bottom, which they call Mortimer’s hole: there are vast subterraneous
-grottos cut underneath. St. Mary’s church is a fine old lightsome
-building, with a good ring of eight bells. We saw Mr. Hurst’s gardens,
-late Pierpoint’s, which are very pretty; in the middle a copy of the
-Dalmatian slave in metal. One may easily guess Nottingham to have
-been an ancient town of the Britons: as soon as they had proper tools
-they fell to work upon the rocks, which every where offer themselves
-so commodiously to make houses in; and I doubt not that here was a
-considerable collection of colonies of this sort: that which I have
-described in Plate 39. will give us an idea of them; it is in the duke
-of Newcastle’s park. What is visible at present is not of so old a date
-as their time; yet I see no doubt but that it is formed upon theirs:
-this is a ledge of perpendicular rock hewn out into a church, houses,
-chambers, dove-houses, &c. The church is like those in the rocks at
-Bethlehem and other places in the Holy Land: the altar is natural
-rock, and there has been painting upon the wall; a steeple, I suppose,
-where a bell hung, and regular pillars. The river here winding about
-makes a fortification to it; for it comes to both ends of the cliff,
-leaving a plain before the middle. The way to it was by gates cut out
-of the rock, and with oblique entrance for more safety. Without is a
-plain with three niches, which I fancy their place of judicature, or
-the like: there is regularity in it, and seems to resemble that square
-called the Temple in the Pictish castle, Plate 38. in Scotland. The
-wild _cherry-tree_ grows upon this place, and many curious plants,
-_liver-worts_, _lychnis sylvester_. 9. _clus. ruta muraria_, _rosa
-pimpinellæ folio odorata_, _capillus veneris_, _umbilicus veneris_.
-Between this and the castle is an hermitage of like workmanship. The
-butchers shambles is an old edifice built for a granary. Clifton near
-here is a good seat, with pretty gardens and a noble prospect: in the
-church are many old brasses of the family of this name. Three miles
-from Nottingham is Woolaton hall, the seat of my lord Middleton;
-which is a good piece of old building: there is a pretty summer-house
-panelled and cieled with looking-glass, which produces a pleasant
-effect: underneath is a water-house with grotesque work of shells, &c.
-A little beyond, in the road, upon the brow of the hill, is a high
-rugged piece of rock, called Hemlock-stone, seen at a good distance:
-probably it is the remains of a quarry dug from around it. Beyond this
-we entered Derbyshire. There are some few ruins of Dale abbey seated
-in a valley, and the east end of the choir over-grown with ivy: the
-mullions of the windows are knocked out (I suppose for sake of the
-iron:) it is overlooked by a near and high hill covered with oaks. In
-the ascent, out of the rock is cut a cell, or little oratory, called
-the Hermitage: on one side the door and windows, at the east end, a
-square altar and a step up to it of the same quarry, little niches cut
-in the wall, and a bench to sit on all round.
-
-[Illustration: 39 BRYTTISH.
-
- _Rudera Coloniæ Troglodyticæ juxta. Nottingham._
-
- _Lin flu._]
-
-[Illustration: 38 +Pictish+
-
- _Caves of Hawthornden, Scotland._
-
- _Stukeley delin._ _I. Harris sculp._]
-
-[Sidenote: +Derby.+]
-
-Derby has five churches; the tower of one is very fine. The new-erected
-silk manufacture is a remarkable curiosity: the house is of a vast
-bulk, five or six stories high: the whole furniture is one machine
-turned by a single water-wheel, which communicates its power through
-the whole, and actuates no less than 97–746 several wheels or motions,
-and still employs three or four hundred hands to over-look and act
-in concert with it. Mr. Loom the owner brought the design of it from
-Italy.[43] The waters that run here, whether from the lead mines or
-coal, are apt to cause the _bronchocele_ in the fair sex.
-
-[Sidenote: +Burton.+]
-
-Beyond Derby, along the Ricning way is Burton upon the Trent, where
-is a bridge of thirty-seven arches. Here was an old abbey: they are
-pulling down the ruins to build a new church.
-
-[Sidenote: +Derventio.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LXXXVI.]
-
-A mile below Derby, upon the river Derwent, stood the old Roman city
-Derventio, now called Little Chester. I traced the track of the wall
-quite round, and in some places saw under ground the foundation of it
-in the pastures, and some vaults along the side of it: they dig it up
-daily to mend the ways with. Mr. Lord’s cellar is built on one side of
-the wall three yards thick: it is of a square form, standing between
-the Roman way called the Ricning street and the river. Within the walls
-are foundations of houses in all the pastures; and in the fields round
-the castle (as they call it) you may see the tracks of the streets
-laid with gravel: in a dry summer the grass over them is very bare.
-Divers wells are found, some still remaining, square, curbed with good
-stone. Brass, silver, and gold Roman coins have been found in great
-abundance; earthen pipes, aqueducts, and all kinds of antiquities.
-Towards the river they have dug up human bones, brass rings, and the
-like. There was a bridge over the river, for it was too deep and rapid
-for a ford: they can feel the foundations of it with a staff. In Mr.
-Hodgkin’s cellar a stag’s head with horns was dug up; probably a temple
-thereabouts: a square well in his garden three foot and a half one way,
-and four another.
-
-[Sidenote: +Ricning-way.+]
-
-A little further northward upon the Ricning street,[44] which seems to
-take its name from the Saxon _rige_, _dorsum_, is Horreston castle,
-whose ruins on a hoary rock are nearly obliterated; and out of it
-they cut great quantities of rubstones to whet scythes withal. We are
-now got into the very Peak of Derbyshire, the British Alps, where the
-odd prospects afford some entertainment to a traveller, and relieve
-the fatigue of so tedious a road. Now you pass over barren moors, in
-perpetual danger of slipping into coal-pits and lead-mines; or ride for
-miles together, on the edge of a steep hill, on solid slippery rock or
-loose stones, with a valley underneath, where you can scarce discover
-the bottom with your eye; which brought into my mind that beautiful
-verse in Virgil,
-
- _Saxa per & scopulos & depressas convalles._
-
-Instead of trees and hedges, they fence in their poor meadow or arable
-with walls of loose stones picked up from beneath their feet. The
-extended sides of the mountains are generally powdered over as it were
-with rocks, streams of water dribbling down every where; and now bolder
-cataracts diversify the romantic scene.
-
-At the smelting-mills they melt down the lead ore, and run it into a
-mould, whence it becomes pigs as they call it: the bellows continually
-are kept in motion by running water. We were complemented to be let
-down two hundred yards deep into the mines, if we pleased. We came to
-a monstrous parcel of gigantic rocks, seemingly piled one a-top of
-another as in the wars of the gods, called the Torr: there were a few
-inhabitants at bottom, in little cottages, who durst trust themselves
-under so ruinous a shelter: it was fitly represented by those verses of
-the poet,
-
- _Stabat acuta silex, præcisis undique saxis,
- Speluncæ dorso insurgens, altissima visu.
- Dirarum nidis domus opportuna volucrum!_ +Virg.+ viii. Æn.
-
-[Illustration: 86 DERVENTIO
- _31 Sept. 1721._
-
- Simon Degg Ar. _Castrum Romanum jam suum d.d. W. Stukeley_]
-
-I took the pains to clamber on hands and knees almost to the top, and
-entered another hermit’s cell, who had a mind, if possible, to get
-quite out of the world: it is hewn in the rock, with a most dreary
-prospect before it: on one end is a crucifix and a little niche, where
-I suppose the mistaken zeal of the starved anchorite placed his saint,
-or such trinket. Over-against it, about half a mile off, is another
-such cliff; but by the care of a gentleman that lives underneath (Mr.
-Ashe) it is reduced into a more agreeable form: there is an easy ascent
-up to it by steps hewn out of the rock, and abundance of alcoves,
-grots, summer-houses, cellars, pinacles, dials, balustrades, urns, &c.
-all of the same materials: earth is carried to the top, and fine grassy
-walks with greens planted along them, upon this hanging terrace, whence
-you have a free view over many a craggy mountain. I was highly pleased
-with so elegant a composure, where Art and industry had so well played
-its part against rugged Nature.
-
-[Sidenote: +Chatsworth.+]
-
-We went through Wirksworth, and over the rapid Derwent, whilst on a
-sudden (like the advantageous change of a scene) we were surprised at
-the sight of Chatsworth, the famous seat of the duke of Devonshire,
-deservedly reckoned one of the wonders of the Peak, as remarkable for
-its situation in so wild a place as its curious fabric and ornaments.
-The river here for a while puts on a smooth aspect, and glides gently
-by, as unwilling to leave so glorious a place: between it and the house
-is a fine venerable walk of trees, retaining the name of that great
-philosopher Hobbes, who studied frequently under its shade. A noble
-piece of iron-work gates and balusters exposes the front of the house
-and court, terminated at the corners next the road with two large
-stone pedestals of Attic work, curiously adorned with trophies of war,
-and utensils of all the sciences, cut in _basso relievo_. This face
-of the building is Ionic, the whole being a square of a single order,
-but every side of a different model: a court in the middle, with a
-piazza of Doric columns of one stone each overlaid with prodigious
-architraves. The stone is of an excellent sort, veined like marble,
-hewn out of the neighbouring quarries, and tumbled down the adjacent
-hill: it is introduced into the work in very large sizes, finely
-jointed. In the anti-room to the hall are flat stones, of fourteen
-foot square, laid upon the heads of four pillars, and so throughout:
-in the hall stairs the landing or resting steps of the same dimension:
-the doors, chimneys, window-cases, stairs, &c. of marble; the sashes
-very large, gilt; the squares two foot broad: the cielings and walls
-of all the apartments charged with rare painting of Varrio and other
-famous hands: the bath-room all of marble curiously wrought. The
-chapel is a most ravishing place: the altar-end and floor marble, the
-seats and gallery cedar, the rest of the wall and cieling painted. The
-gardens abound with green-houses, summer-houses, walks, wildernesses,
-orangeries, with all the furniture of statues, urns, greens, &c. with
-canals, basons and water-works of various forms and contrivance,
-sea-horses, drakes, dolphins, and other fountains that throw up the
-water: an artificial willow-tree of copper spouts and drops water from
-every leaf: a wonderful cascade, where, from a neat house of stone like
-a temple, out of the mouths of beasts, pipes, urns, &c. a whole river
-descends the slope of a hill, a quarter of a mile in length, over
-steps, with a terrible noise and broken appearance, till it is lost
-under ground. Beyond the garden, upon the hills, is a park, and that
-overlooked by a very high and rocky mountain: here are some statues and
-other antiquities.
-
-[Sidenote: +Buxton.+]
-
-Hence we went by Bakewel, and left Haddon-house belonging to the duke
-of Rutland on our left hand, in a pleasant and fruitful valley. We
-travelled ten miles over a perfect desert to Buxton, encompassed with
-waste and boggy mountains and naked cliffs: the tops of the hills
-hereabouts are quagmires, or springs, furnishing numerous rivers
-running hence all manner of ways. Nature seems to have thrown these
-precipicious heights into the middle of the island on purpose for her
-limbeck, to distil the liquid sources of springs by some unknown power.
-The valleys are the firmest ground, made of the gritty washings of
-the mountains: we were every moment diverted with the appearance of
-curious plants, but no tree to be seen. At Buxton are the admirable
-warm springs, which invite numbers of strangers yearly, especially
-from the northern countries. The duke of Devonshire has built a large
-and convenient house for their reception: the bath-room is arched over
-head, and the whole made handsome, convenient, and delightful. This
-collection of tepid waters, exceeding clear, will receive twenty people
-at a time to walk and swim in: the temper thereof, equal to new milk,
-or that of one’s own blood, procures a moderate perspiration: its
-effect is remarkable for giving that gentle relaxation of the solids,
-which takes off the weariness and fatigue of a journey, and refreshes
-immediately: it is useful physically in many cases, and may be indulged
-more than the hot baths of Somersetshire, which frequently do harm for
-that reason, through an imprudent use. Such a one as this was imitated
-by the sumptuous bagnios of the Roman emperors. Sir Tho. Delves, who
-received a cure here, gave the pump and a pretty stone alcove over the
-drinking-spring in the yard: the water may be raised to what height you
-please. Philosophers have long sought for a solution of the cause of
-these hot springs: the chymists know many mixtures will produce a flame
-and effervescence, particularly steel filings and sulphur, when water
-is poured thereon; but that these could continue the same course and
-quantity of water, and this regular heat, through all ages and seasons,
-is worthy of admiration. Indulgent Nature indeed has made some amends
-to the inhabitants of this barren region by this inestimable gift.
-We found in one of the rooms these verses, wrote upon the wall by a
-physician that formerly frequented the place:
-
- _Corpore debilior Grani se proluit undis,
- Quærit aquas Aponi, quem febris atra necat.
- Ut penitus renem purget cur Psaulia tanti,
- Vel quæ Lucinæ gaudia, Calderiæ?
- Sola mihi Buxtona placet, Buxtona Britannis
- Undæ Grani, Aponus, Psaulia, Calderiæ._
-
-About half a mile off is that stupendous cavern called Pool’s Hole,
-under a great mountain: the entrance at the foot thereof is very low
-and narrow, so that you must stoop to get in: but immediately it
-dilates into a wide and lofty concavity, which reaches above a quarter
-of a mile end-wise and farther, as they tell us: some old women with
-lighted candles are guides in this Cimmerian obscurity: water drops
-from the roof every where, and incrusts all the stones with long
-crystals and fluors: whence a thousand imaginary figures are shown you,
-by the name of lions, fonts, lanterns, organs, flitch of bacon, &c. At
-length you come to the Queen of Scots pillar, as a _terminus_ of most
-people’s curiosity. A stream of water runs along the middle, among the
-fallen rocks, with a hideous noise, re-echoed from all sides of the
-horrid concave: on the left hand is a sort of chamber, where they say
-Pool, a famous robber, lived. We may very well apply these verses to
-the place:
-
- _At specus & Caci detecta apparuit ingens
- Regia, & umbrosæ penitus patuere cavernæ:
- Non secus ac si qua penitus vi terræ dehiscens
- Infernas reseret sedes & regna recludat
- Pallida, diis invisa, superque immane barathrum
- Cernatur——_ +Virg.+ Æn. viii.
-
- Within appears old Pool’s tremendous cave,
- With glimmering lights redoubled horror shown;
- Yawning, as earth by strong convulsions torn
- Opens the caverns of the Stygian king
- Dire, hateful to the gods, and the black pit
- Discloses wide——
-
-We entered the pleasanter country of Cheshire at Lyme, the seat of
-Mr. Leigh: here are curious gardens, lakes, cascades, fountains,
-summer-houses. This is a fine level, woody, and rich county, abounding
-with lakes of water called meres: the towns stand but thin, and it
-being mostly inclosure, there are paved causeways for horses along
-the clayey roads: many ancient seats and parks, but most ruinous and
-decayed. We were entertained by the worthy Sir Francis Leycester at his
-seat, Nether Tabley, by Knutsford, upon the Roman way from Mancunium
-to Deva: this house stands in the midst of a mere: here is a good
-library completed by the curious possessor, with a vast addition to his
-ancestors’ store, of all the English history especially. In cleansing
-this mote some time since they found an old British axe, or some such
-thing, made of large flint, neatly ground into an edge, with a hole in
-the middle to fasten into a handle: it would serve for a battle-axe.
-Rotherston church stands upon a hill, and commands a lovely prospect
-across a mere, a mile and half in length and a mile over, where
-amongst great variety of fish are smelts found, properly inhabitants
-of the sea. There is a floating island, formed from turf, sustained
-by implication of the roots of _alnus nigra baccifera_ growing on it,
-which the wind wafts over from one side to the other. On the south side
-of the steeple is this inscription:
-
- *Orate pro anima domini willmi hardwicke vicarii istius ecclesiae
- et pro animabus omnium parochianorum qui hoc sculpt.*
-
-Out of the church-yard you see to the Yorkshire hills beyond
-Manchester. By the church-porch were lately dug up three large stone
-coffins. In the church are abundance of coats of arms. Among other
-curious plants grow hereabouts _calamus aromaticus_ and _ros solis_.
-The Roman road from Manchester to Chester passes the Mersey river at
-Stretford, through Altringham, to the north of Rotherston mere; then by
-Chapel in the street, by Winingham, to Northwich; then by Sandy way,
-the Chamber or Edesbury, it passes the river at Stanford, so called
-from the stony ford, to Chester.
-
-[Sidenote: +Condate.+]
-
-We were at Northwich, which I take to be Condate, as all distances
-persuade me. It is still, among others hereabouts, famous for
-brine-springs, whence they make great quantities of finest salt, by
-boiling the water in large iron pans of small depth: as fast as the
-salt crystallises, they rake it out and dry it in conic wicker baskets:
-the duty paid by it amounts to a great sum of money. About thirty years
-ago on the south side of the town they discovered immense mines of
-rock salt, which they continually dig up, and send in great lumps to
-the maritime parts, where it is dissolved and made into eating-salt.
-We were let down by a bucket a hundred and fifty foot deep to the
-bottom of the salt quarry, a most pleasant subterraneous prospect: it
-looks like a large cathedral, supported by rows of pillars and roof
-of crystal, all of the same rock, transparent and glittering from the
-numerous candles of the workmen, labouring with their steel pick-axes
-in digging it away: this rock-work of salt extends to several acres
-of ground. There is a very good church in the town: the end of the
-choir is semicircular: the roof of the church is very fine, whereon
-are carved several of the wicker baskets before mentioned; whence they
-report it was built out of the profits of the salt works. At Lawton
-Yates they bore for the salt spring to sixty yards deep; lower down, at
-Hassal, it is forty seven; at Wheeloc, eighteen; about Middlewich it is
-less; at Northwich it arises to open day; which seems to intimate that
-the salt spring runs between layers of the earth in an horizontal line:
-upon boring, it rises with great impetuosity, so that the workmen have
-scarce time to get out of the wells. This is all along the side of a
-brook that comes from a remarkable hill called Mawcop, upon the edge
-of Staffordshire, so that the ground rises above the true level in the
-mentioned proportion.
-
-[Sidenote: +Mancunium.+]
-
-Manchester, in Lancashire, is the _Mancunium_ of the Romans, the
-largest, most rich, populous, and busy village in England. There
-are about two thousand four hundred families. The site of the Roman
-_castrum_, between Sir John Bland’s and Manchester, is now called
-Knock Castle. They have a fabulous report of Turquin a giant living
-there, killed by Sir Lancelot de Lake, a knight of king Arthur’s: in
-it was found a Saxon ring, mentioned in Hickes’s _Thesaurus_, now in
-possession of Sir Hans Sloan. A Roman altar dug up here, described by
-Dr. Lister, Philos. Trans. N. 155. p. 457. and a large gold Roman ring.
-The Castle field, as sometime called, is about as big as Lincoln’s-Inn
-square, the foundation of the wall and ditch remaining. Some call it
-Man-castle: its name comes from the British _maen_, _lapis_, meaning
-its rocky soil. The old church, though very large, having three
-rows of neat pillars, was not capable of containing the people at
-divine service; whence they raised, by voluntary subscriptions, a new
-edifice after the London models, finished last year: the choir is
-alcove-fashion, and the pilasters painted of _lapis-lazuli_ colour.
-There is a fine new street built to the north. Their trade, which is
-incredibly large, consists much in fustians, girth-web, tickings,
-tapes, &c. which is dispersed all over the kingdom, and to foreign
-parts: they have looms that work twenty-four laces at a time, which
-was stolen from the Dutch. The college has a good library for public
-use, endowed with 116l. per ann. to buy more books, and a salary for
-the librarian. There is a free-school maintained by a mill upon the
-river, which raises 300l. per annum. On the same river, for the space
-of three miles upwards, there are no less than sixty water-mills. The
-town stands chiefly on a rock; and across the river is another large
-town, called Salthorp. Dr. Yarburgh, son to him late of Newark, showed
-me a great collection of old Greek, Persian, Tartarian, and Punic coins
-brought from Asia. About a mile off, at the seat of Sir John Bland, is
-a Roman altar, lately dug up thereabouts: in the mosses, as they call
-them in this country, they often find reliques of antiquity, such as
-arrow-heads, celts, pick-axes, kettles, &c. of brass; many are in the
-repository of the library: likewise subterraneous fir-trees, as in most
-other countries in the like sort of ground. French wheat grows commonly
-hereabouts, much used among the poor people, of very different species
-from ours: they have likewise wheat with long beards like barley, and
-barley with four rows of grain on an ear, and great plenty of potatoes.
-
-[Sidenote: +Deva.+]
-
-We passed through Delamere forest, upon the Roman road, in our way
-to Chester. They say here was formerly an old city, now called the
-Chamber on the Forest; I suppose, some fort or camp to secure the
-road. From hence you have a fine prospect to the Welsh mountains,
-such a noble scene of nature as I never beheld before. Beeston castle
-is on our left, built upon a rocky precipice. Chester is a fine old
-city, and colony of the Romans, the residence some time of the _legio
-vicesima victrix_: a hypocaust was lately found, lined with bricks
-made by that legion. I need not repeat what other authors say of the
-antiquities at this place. The rows or piazzas are singular, through
-the whole town giving shelter to foot people. I fancied it a remain
-of the Roman porticos. Four churches beside the cathedral, which is
-a pile venerable indeed for age and almost ruin: there are shadows
-of many pictures on the walls, _madonnas_, saints, bishops, &c. but
-defaced. At the west end are some images of the earls Palatine of
-Chester in niches. The adjoining abbey is quite ruined. The walls
-round the city are kept in very good repair at the charge of the
-corporation, and serve for a pleasant airy walk. The Exchange is a neat
-building, supported by columns, thirteen foot high, of one stone each:
-over it is the city-hall, a well-contrived court of judicature. The
-castle was formerly the palace, and where the earls assembled their
-parliaments, and enacted laws independent of the kings of England,
-and determined all judicial trials themselves. Abundance of Roman and
-British antiquities are found hereabouts. At Stretton, Roman coins,
-and a camp-kettle of copper dug up at Codington: near it divers other
-antiquities. The old Watling-street way from Dover came originally
-hither through Stretton and Aldford; though I suppose in after-times of
-the Romans they turned it off more southward into Wales, for sake of
-the many towns seated on the Severn.
-
-[Sidenote: +Wales.+]
-
-[Sidenote: +Bonium.+]
-
-Next we entered Wales, and came to Wrexham in Flintshire. Here is a
-good church, and the finest tower-steeple I ever saw, except Boston:
-it is adorned with abundance of images. There is a new town-house
-built like that at Chester. The common people speak the Welsh. The
-gentry are well-bred, hospitable, generous and open-hearted: the
-females are generally handsome. I took a great deal of pleasure in
-hearing the natives talk in their own language, and remarked a great
-many words among them still retained in our country of Lincolnshire
-Holland: it is probable enough that our fens and morasses might be a
-long security to us against the Saxons, as it had been to them against
-the Romans. I shall give instances of a few words. When we put oatmeal
-into water-gruel or milk, we call it _lithing_ the pot: the same is
-signified by the Welsh word _llith_. Davis thinks the English _slide_
-comes from the British _llithro_, _labi_: we call it _slither_. A
-_bull-beggar_, or _boggleboe_, is manifestly the British _bwbach_,
-with all its synonymes. A top we call a _whirligig_, purely British.
-We say a _whisking_ fellow, dexterous, ready: British _gwisgi_, To
-_whyne_; British _gwynio_. Very many such like occur in Dr. Skinner’s
-_Etymologicum_, which he would fain persuade us the Welsh learnt from
-the Saxons, but without reason. We passed by the valley upon the river
-Dee, where was the famous British monastery in early times, whereof
-Pelagius was abbot, whose British name was Morgan; but no remains
-discernible. What some talk concerning it, probably the vestiges of
-the Roman city; for many foundations, coins, and antiquities have been
-dug up; and not long since two gates of the city were left. We entered
-Shropshire, passing by Ellsmere and Wem to Newport, where is a noble
-foundation for a school well endowed by William Adams esq; to the value
-of 7000l. over the door is this distich, _in fundatorem_:
-
- _Scripsisti heredem patriam tibi quæ dedit ortum,
- Scriberis ergo tuæ, jure, pater patriæ._
-
-he gave 550l. towards building the town-house.
-
-
-[Sidenote: +Royal Oak.+]
-
-Presently entering Staffordshire, we came into the Watling-street, laid
-very broad and deep with gravel not yet worn out, where it goes over
-commons and moors. It is raised a good height above the soil, and so
-strait, that upon an eminence you may see it ten or twenty miles before
-you, and as much behind, over many hill-tops answering one the other as
-a visto of trees. Here and there, between one Roman town and another,
-you meet with the remains of an old fort or guard-place. We lodged
-at an inn called Ivesey bank, on the borders between Staffordshire
-and Shropshire. About a mile off, in a large wood, stands Boscobel
-house, where the Pendrils lived, who preserved king Charles II. after
-Worcester fight, and famous for the Royal Oak. The grand-daughter of
-that William Pendril still lives in the house. The floor of the garret
-(which is a popish chapel) being matted, prevents any suspicion of a
-little cavity with a trap-door over the stair-case, where the king was
-hid: his bed was artfully placed behind some wainscot that shut up very
-close. A bow-shot from the house, just by a horse-track passing through
-the wood, stood the Royal Oak into which the king, and his companion
-colonel Carlos, climbed by means of the hen-roost ladder, when they
-judged it no longer safe to stay in the house; the family reaching them
-victuals with the nut-hook. It happened (as they related it to us)
-that whilst these two were in the tree, a party of the enemy’s horse,
-sent to search the house, came whistling and talking along this road:
-when they were just under the tree, an owl flew out of a neighbouring
-tree, and hovered along the ground as if her wings were broke, which
-the soldiers merrily pursued without any circumspection. The tree is
-now inclosed within a brick wall, the inside whereof is covered with
-laurel; of which we may say, as Ovid did of that before the Augustan
-palace, _mediamque tuebere quercum_. The oak is, in the middle, almost
-cut away by travellers whose curiosity leads them to see it: close by
-the side grows a young thriving plant from one of its acorns. The king,
-after the restoration, reviewing the place, carried some of the acorns,
-and set them in St. James’s park, or garden, and used to water them
-himself: he gave this Pendril an estate of about 200l. per annum, which
-still remains among them. Over the door of the inclosure I took this
-inscription cut in marble.
-
- _Felicissimam arborem quam in asylum
- potentissimi regis Caroli II. Deus O. M.
- per quem reges regnant hic crescere
- voluit, tam in perpetuam rei tantæ memoriam,
- quam specimen firmæ in reges
- fidei, muro cinctam posteris commendant
- Basilius & Jana Fitzherbert.
- Quercus amica Jovi._
-
-[Sidenote: +Pennocrucium.+]
-
-Entering Staffordshire, we went along the Watling-street by Stretton
-and Water-Eaton: where a brook crosses the road was the _Pennocrucium_
-of the Romans, as mentioned in the Itinerary of Antoninus. A little way
-off is Penkridge, which no doubt retains somewhat of the ancient name.
-
-[Sidenote: +Litchfield.+]
-
-[Sidenote: +Etocetum.+]
-
-Litchfield is a city neat enough. The cathedral is a very handsome
-pile, with numerous statues in niches at the front, which appears very
-majestic half a mile off, there being two high spires, and another
-higher in the middle of the cross. The rebels intirely ruined all the
-ornament of the inside, with the brass inscriptions, tombs, &c. and
-were going to pull down the whole fabric for sale. It is built in the
-middle of a bog for security, and held out some fierce attacks for
-king Charles I. This was made a metropolitical see by the potent king
-Offa. St. Ceadda lived an eremitical life here by the spring near
-Stow church. This town arose from the ruin of the Roman _Etocetum_,
-a mile off, where the Rickning and Watling streets cross, now called
-Chesterfield wall, from some reliques of its fortifications: it stands
-high: the Rickning street is very visible southward, passing within a
-mile of Fotherby, and so to a park in Sutton Colfield, Warwickshire;
-thence to Bromicham. Castle hill, two miles hence above Stone hall,
-is a camp, the port eastward. A mile and half from Wall is West-wall,
-a camp; and Knaves-castle, near the Watling-street, probably a guard
-upon the road: it is a circle of twenty yards diameter, with a square
-in the middle, three or four yards broad, with a breast-work about
-it: the whole is inclosed with three ditches: it stands in a large
-common. This Rickning is all along called by Dr. Plot _Icknilway_, but
-injuriously, and tends only to the confusion of things; I suppose, to
-favour his _Iceni_ in this country; which notion is but chimerical. We
-passed through Tamworth, pleasantly situated in a plain watered by the
-river Tame, which divides it into two counties: it was the residence of
-the Mercian kings, and has been secured by a _vallum_ and ditch quite
-round. Here died the noble lady Elfleda, daughter of king Alfred, queen
-of the Mercian kingdom, anno 919. This town, by William the Conqueror,
-was given to the Marmyons, who built the castle here, hereditary
-champions to the kings of England; from whom that office descended to
-the Dymokes of Lincolnshire. We went through Bosworth over the field
-where Henry VII. won the kingdom by a bold and well-timed battle.
-
- Boston, Dec. 1713.
-
-
-
-
- ITER SABRINIUM. IV.
-
- _O mitte mirari beatæ
- Fumum, & opes, strepitumque Romæ._ +Hor.+
-
-
- _To_ TANCRED ROBINSON, _M. D._ &c.
-
-To you, Sir, that have visited the boasted remains of Italy, and
-other transmarine parts, it would seem presumptuous to offer the
-trifle of the following letter, were I not sufficiently apprized of
-your great humanity and candour, which prompts you to encourage even
-the blossoms of commendable studies. You, that have made an intimate
-search, and happily obtained a thorough insight into Nature, consider
-that she proceeds regularly by successive gradations from little
-things to greater. The acquisition of any part of science is owing
-to a conversation with its elements and first principles, whose very
-simplicity renders them not disagreeable.
-
-These pages were memoradums I took in a summer’s journey with our
-friend Mr. Roger Gale. This being my first expedition since I came
-to live at London, I design as early as possible to commemorate the
-felicity I enjoyed thereby of your acquaintance, and the opportunity of
-observing the noble character you sustain, of possessing all the wisdom
-that ancient or modern learning can give us without vanity, and that
-the physician, the scholar, and the gentleman, meet in you.
-
-[Sidenote: +Bibroci.+]
-
-I observe, in Berkshire, a river called Ock, running in the north side
-of the county by Abingdon into the Thames, which in the Celtic language
-signifies sharp or swift, or perhaps water in general: this is in Oke
-hundred. In the south side of the county is the town of Okeingham.
-These seem plainly remnants of the old name of the inhabitants of this
-country, _Bibroci_, not yet observed. Near Reading is Laurence-Waltham,
-which has been Roman: there is a field called Castle-field, and vast
-numbers of coins found. By it is Sunning, once an episcopal see. From
-London to Maidenhead it is a gravelly soil; then a marly chalk begins.
-
-[Sidenote: +Reading.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XXVI.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XXIII.]
-
-Reading is a large and populous town upon the fall of the Kennet into
-the Thames; in the angle of which it stands upon a rising ground,
-overlooking the meadows, which have a fine appearance all along the
-rivers. There are three churches, built of flint and square stone in
-the _quincunx_ fashion, with tall towers of the same. Arch-bishop Laud
-was born here. The abbey stood in a charming situation: large ruins
-of it still visible, built of flint; the walls about eight foot thick
-at present, though the stone that faced them be pillaged away: the
-remainder is so hard cemented, that it is not worth while to separate
-them: many remnants of arched vaults a good height above ground,
-whereon stood, as I suppose, the hall, lodgings, &c. there is one large
-room about sixteen yards broad, and twenty-eight long, semi-circular
-towards the east end, with five narrow windows, three doors towards the
-west, and three windows over them: it was arched over, and seems to
-have supported a chapel, in which we fancy king Henry I. was buried
-with his queen: he founded this abbey upon an old one, that had been
-formerly erected by a Saxon lady. There are the remains of bastions,
-part of the fortifications, when garrisoned by the parliament army in
-the civil wars: the abbey gate-house is yet pretty intire. Here was a
-famous old castle, but long since demolished, perhaps originally Roman.
-Near the trench the Danes made between the river Kennet and the Thames,
-is Catsgrove hill, a mile off Reading: in digging there they find first
-a red gravel, clay, chalk, flints, and then a bed of huge petrified
-oysters five yards thick, twenty foot below the surface: these shells
-are full of sea sand.[45] Dr. Plot, in _Oxfordshire_, p. 119. who
-supposes these appearances only the sports of Nature, solves this
-matter after a way that will induce one to think his cause reduced to
-extremity. On the right hand, just beyond Theal, is Inglefield, where
-king Ethelwolf routed the Danes.
-
-[Illustration: 26 _Ruins of Reding Abby Augᵗ. 14. 1721._
-
- _Neustrius Henricus situs hic, Inglorius urna nunc jacet ejectus,
- tumulum novus advena quærit Frustra_——]
-
-[Illustration: 23 GATEHOUSES
-
- _Reading Abby Gatehouse. 14 Aug 1721_
-
- _The College Gate at Worcester. 30 Aug 1721_
-
- _Stukeley delin._ _I Harris Sculp._]
-
-[Illustration: 60 Ad SPINAS
-
- _Prospect of_ Newberry _from the South between_ Winchester _and_
- Silchester _Road_
- _Iun. 28, 1723. Stukeley del_:
-
- _A._ _Icening Street._
- _B._ _Donington Castle._
- _C._ _Way to Winchester._
- _D._ _Speen._]
-
-[Illustration: 10·2ᵈ. +Spinae+
- _Iun 28 1723_
-
-_Stukeley delin._ _Parker Sculpᵗ._]
-
-[Illustration: 62
-
- _Cunetio_
- _Castrum_
- _6 July. 1723_
- _Algernonio Com de Hartford d.d. W. Stukeley._
-
- _Stukeley delin._]
-
-[Illustration: 63 _Prospect of_ Marlborough _from the South. 29 Iun
- 1723._ CVNETIO.
-
- A. _Marlborough Mount._ B. _the Road to Kennet._ C. _the Castle._ D.
- _Sᵗ. Peters Church._ E. _Sᵗ. Marys._ F. _the Road to Ramsbury._ G.
- _the Kennet._ H. _the remains of the Roman Castrum._ I. _Lady
- Winchilseas._ K. _Preshute._
-
- _Stukeley, del._]
-
-[Illustration: 11·2ᵈ. +Cunetio+
- _29 Iun. 1723_
-
- _Stukeley delin._ _Parker Sculpᵗ._]
-
-[Sidenote: +Ad Spinam.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LX.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. X. 2d Vol.]
-
-A little west of Newberry is a village called Speen; which has given
-antiquarians a reasonable hint of looking for the town, in Antoninus
-called _ad Spinas_, hereabouts; and doubtless it was where now stands
-the north part of the town of Newberry, still called Spinham. At this
-place the great Icening-street road, coming from the Thames at Goring,
-and another Roman road running hence through Speen to Hungerford, and
-so to Marlborough, crosses the Kennet river. Newberry has derived
-itself and name from the ruins of the old one; and the grounds
-thereabouts are called Spinham lands. Dunington castle was once in
-the possession of Geffrey Chaucer. A remarkable large oak, venerable
-through many ages, because it bore his name, was felled in the civil
-wars. The Kennet, still called by the country people Cunnet, near
-Hungerford, parts the soil, that on the north side being a red clay
-gravel, that on the south a chalk. I have often wished that a map of
-soils was accurately made, promising to myself that such a curiosity
-would furnish us with some new notions of geography, and of the theory
-of the earth, which has only hitherto been made from hypotheses.
-This brings into my mind a remarkable passage in Sir Robert Atkins’s
-_Glocestershire_: “Lay a line (says he) from the mouth of the Severn to
-Newcastle, and so quite round the terrestrial globe, and coal is to be
-found every where near that line, and scarce any where else.”[46]
-
-[Sidenote: +Cunetio.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LXII. LXIII.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XI. 2d vol.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. I.]
-
-From Newberry the Roman road (I believe coming from Silchester) passes
-east and west to Marlborough, the Roman _Cunetio_,[47] named from the
-river. This town consists chiefly of one broad and strait street, and
-for the most part upon the original ground-plot; nor does it seem
-unlikely that the narrow piazza continued all along the sides of the
-houses is in imitation of them: the square about the church in the
-eastern part one may imagine the site of a temple fronting this street:
-to the south are some reliques of a priory: the gate-house is left: on
-the north has been another religious house, whereof the chapel remains,
-now turned into a dwelling-house. Where now is the seat of my lord
-Hartford was the site of the Roman _castrum_, for they find foundations
-and Roman coins; I saw one of Titus in large brass: but towards the
-river, and without my lord’s garden-walls, is one angle of it left
-very manifestly, the rampart and ditch intire: the road going over the
-bridge cuts it off from the limits of the present castle: the ditch
-is still twenty foot broad in some part: it passed originally on the
-south of the summer-house, and so along the garden-wall, where it makes
-the fence, to the turn of the corner: the mark of it is still apparent
-broader than the ditch, which has been repaired since, but of narrower
-dimension: then I suppose it went through the garden by the southern
-foot of the mount, and round the house through the court-yard, where
-I have marked the track thereof with pricked lines in Plate 62. There
-is a spring in the ditch, so that the foss of the _castrum_ was always
-full of water. I suppose it to have been five hundred Roman feet square
-within, and the Roman road through the present street of Marlborough
-went by the side of it. Afterward, in Saxon or Norman times, they built
-a larger castle, upon the same ground, after their model, and took in
-more compass for the mount; which obliged the road to go round it with
-a turn, till it falls in again on the west side of the mount at the
-bounds of Preshute parish. Roman coins have been found in shaping the
-mount; which was the keep of the later castle, and now converted into
-a pretty spiral walk, on the top of which is an octagonal summer-house
-represented Tab. I. This neighbouring village, Preshute, has its name
-from the meadows the church stands in, which are very low: in the
-windows upon a piece of glass is written, DNS RICHARDUS HIC VICARIUS,
-who I believe lived formerly in a little house at Marlborough,
-over-against the castle, now an ale-house, where his name is cut in
-wood in the same old letters over the door.
-
-[Sidenote: +Leucomagus.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LXIV.]
-
-Great Bedwin I take to be the _Leucomagus_ of Ravennas; for that
-and the present name signify the same thing, viz. the white town,
-the soil being chalk: he there places it just before Marlborough,
-_cunetzione_. We saw near it the continuation of Wansdike. This town
-is an old corporation: in it the famous Dr. Tho. Willis, the ornament
-of our faculty, was born. In the church lies the monument of a knight
-cross-legged; on his shield, barry of six argent and gules, an orle of
-martlets sable; over all three escallops of the first on a bend of the
-third. Upon a stone in brass in the choir,
-
- _Bellocampus eram graja genetrice semerus
- Tres habui natos, est quibus una soror._
-
-Here lyeth the body of John Seymour, son and heyre of Sir John Seymour
-and of Margery oon of the doughters of Henry Wentworth knyght, which
-decesed the xv day of July the yer of our lord M. D. X. on whose soul
-Ihu have mercy, and of your charity say a _pater nostr_ and a _ave_.
-
-_Hic jacet dns Thomas Dageson quondam vicarius istius ecclesie qui
-obiit 7. die Decemb. Aᵒ dni._ M.D.I. _cujus anime propitietur deus
-amen_. on a brass in the middle aile.
-
-_Roger de Stocre chev. ici gycht deu de sa alme eyt merci._ in the
-south transept.
-
-The town arms are, a man standing in a castle, with a sword in his
-hand. Castle copse, south-east from the town about half a mile, as much
-from Wansdike, containing about fourteen acres, seems the old Roman
-castle. Howisdike I suppose a camp upon an eminence and in an angle
-made by the Wansdike. They showed us a brass town gallon, from the
-Winchester standard, given by my lord Nottingham. In the east window
-of this church some time since was the picture of a priest with
-two crutches, a cup in his hand, and a cann standing by him, with
-this inscription, which Mr. le Neve Norroy gave me: he transcribed it
-out of an old MS. now in the library of Holkham in Norfolk, formerly
-Sir Ed. Coke’s book; and for its antiquity I think it not unworthy of
-mentioning.
-
-[Illustration: 1 Rural Curiosity.
-
- _Marlborough Mount_
-
- _Cascade at Wilton._
-
- _Dedicated to the Right Honorable the Lady Hartford._]
-
-[Illustration: 3 _View of Lord_ Hartfords House _at_ Marlborough _29
- Iun. 1723._ A. _the scite of the Roman Castrum_ B. _Sᵗ. Peters._
-
- _Stukeley del_:]
-
-[Illustration: 64 _View of_ Great Bedwin & Wansdike _2 Iuly. 1723._
- +Leucomagus.+
-
- _Stukeley del._]
-
- *G SU PERIS APELE VIKERE DE SET EGLISE
- SU MA POTENTE SU APUE TOT EN TELE GYSE
- MON HANAP AY EN POYNE E BEVEREI SANS FEINTISE
- MON POT A MON DERER MISS E LA NOVELE GYISE
- DE MON POT E MON HANAP SEREY JUSTICE
- KE NUL NI BEYVE SANS NE Y AY M ATENTE MISE.*
-
- _G su Peris apele vikere de set eglise
- Su ma potente su apue tot en tele gyse
- Mon hanap ay en poyne e beverei sans feintise
- Mon pot a mon derer miss e la novele gyise
- De mon pot e mon hanap serey justice
- Ke nul ni beyve sans ne y ay m atente mise._
-
-In modern French,
-
- _Je suis Peris appellé vicaire de cette eglise
- Sur ma potence suis appuié tout en tell guise
- Mon hanap enpoigne & boirai sans feintise
- Mon pot a mon derriere mis a la nouvelle guise
- De mon pot & mon hanap serai justice
- Que nul ne boive sans que n’y ai m’autant mis._
-
-In English,
-
- I am Peris call’d, vicar of this church,
- Upon my crutches leaning just in this wise;
- My pouch in my fist, and I’ll drink without guile;
- My pot at my back set after the new mode:
- To my pot and my pouch I will have justice done,
- For none shall drink without putting in as much again.
-
-We were entertained at Wilton, the noble seat of the great earl of
-Pembroke; and deservedly may I style it the School of Athens. The
-glories of this place I shall endeavour to rehearse in a separate
-discourse.
-
-Crekelade, probably a Roman town upon the Thames; for from this a
-very plain Roman road runs to Cirencester. Much has been the dispute
-formerly about a fancied university in this place, and the little town
-in its neighbourhood _Latin_, which it would be senseless only to
-repeat. The word _Crekelade_ is derived from the cray-fishes in the
-river: _Lade_ is no more than a water-course, but more especially such
-a one as is made by art;[48] and we here find the river pent up for a
-long way together by factitious banks, in order the better to supply
-their mills: so _Latin_ is no more than _ladeings_, or the meadows
-where these channels run. Ledencourt, near Newent, Glocestershire, I
-suppose, acknowledges the like original; and many more. The town of
-Lechelade falls under the same predicament: _leche_ signifies a watery
-place subject to inundations; as Leach, a town near Boston before
-mentioned, anciently written _Leche_: as Camden says of Northleach, p.
-240. and Litchfield hence fetches its etymology from the marshy bog
-that environs the church, rather than the superstitious notion there
-current. Not far hence are two towns called Sarney and Sarncote, from
-the Roman causeway; _sarn_ in Welsh importing a paved way. There is
-another upon the same road between Cirencester and Glocester.
-
-[Sidenote: +Corinium.+ Dobunorum]
-
-Cirencester was anciently the _Corinium_ of the Romans, a great and
-populous city, built upon the intersection of this road we have been
-traveling, and the great Foss road going to the Bath: it was inclosed
-with walls and a ditch of a vast compass, which I traced quite round.
-Under the north-east side of the wall runs the river Churn, whence the
-names of the town: the foundation of the wall is all along visible; the
-ditch is so where that is quite erased.
-
- ————_sic omnia fatis
- In pejus ruere ac retro sublapsa referri._ +Virg. G. i.+
-
-A great part of the ground comprehended within this circuit is now
-pasture, corn-fields, or converted into gardens, beside the site of
-the present town. Here they dig up antiquities every day, especially
-in the gardens; and in the plain fields, the track of foundations of
-houses and streets are evident enough. Here are found many Mosaic
-pavements, rings, intaglia’s, and coins innumerable, especially in
-one great garden called _lewis_ grounds, which signifies in British a
-palace, _llys_. I suppose it was the _prætorium_, or head magistrate’s
-quarters. Large quantities of carved stones are carried off yearly in
-carts, to mend the highways, besides what are useful in building. A
-fine Mosaic pavement dug up here Sept. 1723. with many coins. I bought
-a little head which has been broke off from a _basso relievo_, and
-seems by the _tiara_, of a very odd shape, like fortification work, to
-have been the genius of a city, or some of the _deæ matres_, which are
-in old inscriptions, such like in Gruter, p. 92. The gardener told me
-he had lately found a fine little brass image, I suppose one of the
-_lares_; but, upon a diligent scrutiny, his children had played it
-away. Mr. Richard Bishop, owner of the garden, on a hillock near his
-house, dug up a vault sixteen foot long and twelve broad, supported
-with square pillars of Roman brick three foot and a half high; on it
-a strong floor of terras: there are now several more vaults near it,
-on which grow cherry-trees like the hanging gardens of Babylon. I
-suppose these the foundations of a temple; for in the same place they
-found several stones of the shafts of pillars six foot long, and bases
-of stone near as big in compass as his summer-house adjoining (as he
-expressed himself): these, with cornices very handsomely moulded and
-carved with modilions, and the like ornaments, were converted into
-swine-troughs: some of the stones of the bases were fastened together
-with cramps of iron, so that they were forced to employ horses to
-draw them asunder; and they now lie before the door of his house as
-a pavement: capitals of these pillars were likewise found, and a
-crooked cramp of iron ten or twelve foot long, which probably was for
-the architraves of a circular portico. A Mosaic pavement near it, and
-intire, is now the floor of his privy vault. Mr. Aubury in his MS.
-coll. says an hypocaust was here discovered; and Mr. Tho. Pigot, fellow
-of Wadham, wrote a description thereof. Sometimes they dig up little
-stones, as big as a shilling, with stamps on them: I conjecture they
-are counterfeit dies to cast money in.
-
-[Illustration: 32 _The White Fryers in_ Glocester _Aug. 24. 1721._
-
- Browne Willys _Ar. Reliquias sacras d. d. Wˢ. Stukeley_.
-
- _Stukeley delin._ _E. Kirkall sculp:_]
-
-[Illustration: 12·2ᵈ. +Glevvm+]
-
-We saw a monumental inscription upon a stone at Mr. Isaac Tibbot’s, in
-Castle-street, in very large letters four inches long:
-
- D — M
- IVLIAE CASTAE
- CONIVGI — VIX
- ANN — XXXIII.
-
-It was found at a place half a mile west of the town, upon the north
-side of the Foss road, called _Quern_ from the quarries of stone
-thereabouts. Five such stones lay flatwise upon two walls in a row,
-end to end; and underneath were the corpses of that family, as we may
-suppose. He keeps Julia Casta’s skull in his summer-house; but people
-have stole all her teeth out for _amulets_ against the ague. Another of
-the stones serves for a table in his garden: it is handsomely squared,
-five foot long and three and a half broad, without an inscription.
-Another of them is laid for a bridge over a channel near the cross in
-Castle-street. There were but two of them which had inscriptions: the
-other inscription perished, being unluckily exposed to the wet in a
-frosty season: probably, of her husband. Several urns have been found
-thereabouts, being a common burying place: I suppose them buried here
-after christianity. In the church, which is a very handsome building
-of the style of St. Mary’s at Cambridge, are a great many ancient
-brass inscriptions and figures: the windows are full of good painted
-glass: there is a fine lofty tower. Little of the abbey is now left,
-beside two old gate-houses neither large nor good: the circuit of it is
-bounded for a good way by the city walls. East of the town about a a
-quarter of a mile, is a mount or barrow called Starbury, where several
-gold Roman coins have been dug up, of about the time of Julian, which
-we saw: some people ploughing in the field between it and the town,
-south of the hill, took up a stone coffin with a body in it covered
-with another stone. West of the town, behind my lord Bathurst’s garden,
-is another mount, called Grismunds or Gurmonds, of which several fables
-are told: probably raised by the Danes when they laid siege to this
-place.
-
-[Sidenote: +Glevum.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB XXXII.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XII. 2d Vol.]
-
-Hence our journey lay by Stretton over the continuation of the Roman
-road from Crekelade, which appears with a very high ridge and very
-strait for eight miles, to Birdlip hill, prodigiously steep and rocky
-to the north-west, till we came to Glocester, a colony of the Romans.
-The old proverb, “As sure as God’s at Glocester,” surely meant the vast
-number of churches and religious foundations here; for you can scarce
-walk past ten doors but somewhat of that sort occurs. The western part
-of the cathedral is old and mean; but from the tower, which is very
-handsome, you have a most glorious prospect eastward through the choir
-finely vaulted at top, and the Lady’s chapel, to the east window, which
-is very magnificent: here, on the north side, lies that unfortunate
-king, Edward II. and out of the abundance of pious offerings to his
-remains, the religious built this choir: before the high altar in the
-middle thereof lies the equally unfortunate prince Robert, eldest
-son of William the Conqueror, after a miserable life: but he rests
-quietly in his grave; which cannot be said of his younger brother,
-Henry I. before spoken of at Reading abbey: he has a wooden tomb over
-him, painted with his coats of arms, and upon it his effigies, in
-Irish oak, cross-legged like a Jerusalem knight. The cloysters in this
-cathedral are beautiful, beyond any thing I ever saw, in the style of
-King’s-college chapel in Cambridge. Nothing could ever have made me so
-much in love with Gothic architecture (as called); and I judge, for
-a gallery, library, or the like, it is the best manner of building;
-because the idea of it is taken from a walk of trees, whose branching
-heads are curiously imitated by the roof. There are large remains of
-several abbeys of black and white friers, &c. I saw this distich cut in
-wood over an old door of a house:
-
- *Cum ruinosa domus quondam quam tunc renovavit
- Monachus Urbanus Osborn John rite vocavit.*
-
-This city abounds much with crosses and statues of the kings of
-England, and has a handsome prospect of steeples, some without a
-church. Here are several market-houses supported with pillars; among
-the rest a very old one of stone, Gothic architecture, uncommon and
-ancient, now turned into a cistern for water. A mile or two distant
-from the city is a very pleasant hill, called Robin Hood’s: I suppose
-it may have been the rendezvous of youth formerly to exercise
-themselves in archery upon festivals, as now a walk for the citizens.
-By this city, the _Glevum_ of the Romans, the Ricning-street way runs
-from the mouth of the Severn into Yorkshire. I have nothing new as to
-its Roman antiquities; and since that is out of dispute, I hasten to
-Worcester.
-
-[Sidenote: +Branonium.+]
-
-It was anciently called _Branonium_, which the Welsh corrupted into
-_Wrangon_, prefixing _Caer_, as was their method; and thence our
-_Worcester_: it signifies the city _ad frontem aquæ_. The commandery
-here, formerly belonging to St. John’s of Jerusalem, is now possessed
-by the hospitable My. Wylde: it is a fine old house of timber in the
-form of a court: the hall makes one side thereof, roofed with Irish
-oak: the windows adorned with imagery and coats armorial of stained
-glass: built for the reception of pilgrims: it stands just without the
-south gate of the city in the London road, where the heat of the famous
-battle happened between king Charles II. and Oliver Cromwell. Digging
-in the garden they frequently find the bones of the slain. Above, in
-the park, is to be seen a great work, of four bastions, called the
-Royal Mount, whence a _vallum_ and ditch runs both ways to encompass
-this side of the city. Here I suppose the storm began, when the
-Royalists were driven back into the city with great slaughter; and the
-king escaped being made a prisoner in the narrow street at this gate
-(as they say) by a loaded cart of hay purposely overthrown; by that
-means he had time to retire at the opposite gate to an old house called
-White Ladys, being formerly a nunnery in possession of the family of
-Cookseys, where he left his gloves and garters, which a descendant of
-that family, of the same name, now keeps. The chapel of this nunnery
-is standing, and has some painted saints upon the wall of one end. A
-mile and half above the south gate, on the top of the hill, is the
-celebrated Perry wood, where Oliver Cromwell’s army lay.
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XVIII.]
-
-The collegiate church is stately enough: in it is buried the restless
-king John; not where now his monument stands in the choir before the
-high altar, but under a little stone before the altar of the eastermost
-wall of the church; on each side him, upon the ground, lie the effigies
-of the two holy bishops and his chief saints Wolstan and Oswald, from
-whose vicinity he hoped to be safe from harm: the image of the king
-likewise I suppose formerly lay here upon the ground, now elevated
-upon a tomb in the choir as aforesaid. There is a large and handsome
-stone chapel over the monument of prince Arthur, son of Henry VII. on
-the south side of the high altar. The cloysters are very perfect, and
-the chapter-house is large, supported, as to its arched roof, with
-one umbilical pillar: it is now become a library well furnished,
-and has a good many old manuscripts. There is a large old gate-house
-standing, and near it the castle, with a very high artificial mount or
-keep nigh the river. We met here with an odd instance of a prodigious
-memory, in a person the powers of whose soul are run out (as we may
-speak) intirely into that one; for otherwise his capacity is very weak:
-if we name any passage in the whole Bible, he will immediately tell you
-what book, chapter, and verse, it is in; a truly living concordance.
-Here are a great many churches, and in good repair: one steeple is
-octangular, another is remarkable for its lofty spire. A large bridge
-of six arches over the beautiful Severn, enriched on both sides with
-pleasant meadows. This is a large city, very populous and busy, and
-affords several fine prospects, particularly from Perry wood. No doubt
-but this was a Roman city; yet we could find no remains, but a place in
-it called Sidbury, which seems to retain from its name some memorial of
-that sort.
-
-[Illustration: 18 _King_ Johns _Monument before the Altar in Worcester
- Choir._
-
- _Præhonorabili Dⁿᵒ. Eduardo Dⁿᵒ. Harley bonarum Artium
- cultori & fautori Tabula votiva._
-
- _J. Pine sculp._ _W. Stukeley designat_]
-
-[Illustration: 85 +Ariconivm+
- _9ᵗʰ. Sept. 1721._
-
- _Tempus edax Rerum Tuqᵤₑ Invidiosa Vetustas
- Omnia destruitis. Vitiataqᵤₑ dentibus Ævi
- Paulatim lenta consumitis Omnia Morte._
- +Ov.+
-
- Jacobo Hill Ar. J. C. Vicinæ Civitatis formam consecrat W. Stukeley.
-
- _Stukeley delin._]
-
-[Sidenote: +Ypocessa.+]
-
-[Sidenote: +Salinis.+]
-
-[Sidenote: +Malvern.+]
-
-A Roman road goes hence along the river to Upton, where antiquities are
-dug up, (I take it for _Ypocessa_ of Ravennas) and so to Tewksbury,
-where it meets with the Ricning-street way. A little below Worcester
-a river called Teme falls into the Severn; and many other synonymous
-rivers there are in England, beside the great Thames, which shows it
-a common name to rivers in the old Celtic language, and the same with
-the Greek Ποταμος, the first syllable cut off. A little above, a river
-called Saltwarp falls into the Severn from Droitwich, a Roman town,
-which occurs too in Ravennas under the name of _Salinis_; and they
-still make salt at the place. From hence I made an excursion to Great
-Malvern, a considerable priory at the bottom of a prodigious hill of
-that name: the church is very large and beautiful, with admirable
-painted glass in all the windows, and several old monuments: upon a
-stone now in the body of the church, but taken from without the south
-side in a garden, which was anciently the south wing, this.
-
- PHILOSOPHVS DIGNVS BONVS ASTROLOGVS LOTHERING,
- VIR PIVS AC HVMILIS MONACHVS PRIOR HVIVS OVILIS
- HAC IACET IN CISTA GEOMETRICVS AC ABACISTA
- DOCTOR WALCHERVS FLET PLEBS DOLET VNDIQ. CLERVS
- HVIC LVX PRIMA MORI DEDIT OCTOBRIS SENIORI
- VIVAT UT IN CELIS EXORET QVISQ. FIDELIS M. C. XXXV.[49]
-
-there is a carved stone image, by the south wall of the choir, of
-very rude and ancient workmanship: it is a knight covered with mail
-and his surcoat; in his right hand a halbert like a pick-axe, in his
-left a round target. Here are many coats of arms and cognizances upon
-a glazed sort of brick; such I have seen at other places. A handsome
-gate-house is left, and from the houses in the town you command a very
-noble prospect over Worcester, as far as Edghill, as they tell us: it
-is thought the Malvern has metals in its bowels. We diverted ourselves,
-as we rode through Dean forest, with a house after the primitive style,
-built round an oak tree, whose branches are still green with leaves.
-Vide Vitruv. L. II. C. I. Two thousand years ago, one would have
-suspected it to be a Druid’s.
-
-[Sidenote: +Ariconium.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LXXXV.]
-
-[Sidenote: +Credonhill.+ Br. _camp_.]
-
-[Sidenote: +Sutton walls.+ Ro. _camp_.]
-
-The city of Hereford probably sprung up from the ruin of the Roman
-_Ariconium_, now Kenchester, three miles off, higher up the river
-Wye, but not very near it; which may be a reason for its decay.
-Ariconium stands upon a little brook called the Ine, which thence
-encompassing the walls of Hereford falls into the Wye. Two great
-Roman ways here cross each other: one called the Port-way comes from
-_Bullæum_, now Buelt, in Radnorshire; passing eastward by Kenchester,
-through Stretton, over the river Lug, to Stretton Grantham upon the
-Frome, it goes to Worcester: the other road comes from the south, and
-Abergavenny, _Gobannium_, by Old town formerly _Blescium_; so by Dowre
-a-cross the Golden vale and Archenfield to the river Wye, which it
-passes at Eaton, where is a Roman camp for security, and a bridge for
-convenience of the passage: thence it goes to Kenchester, so northwards
-by Stretford: this Archenfield seems to retain the name of Ariconium.
-Nothing remaining of its splendour, but a piece of a temple probably,
-with a niche which is five foot high and three broad within, built of
-Roman brick, stone, and indissoluble mortar: the figure of it is in
-the fore-mentioned plate. There are many large foundations near it.
-A very fine Mosaic floor a few years ago was found intire, soon torn
-to pieces by the ignorant vulgar. I took up some remaining stones of
-different colours, and several bits of fine potters ware of red earth.
-Mr. Aubury in his manuscript notes says, anno 1670, old Roman buildings
-of brick were discovered under-ground, on which oaks grew: the bricks
-are of two sorts; some equilaterally square, seven or eight inches, and
-one inch thick; some two foot square, and three inches thick. A bath
-was here found by Sir John Hoskyns about seven foot square: the pipes
-of lead intire; those of brick were a foot long, three inches square,
-let artificially one into another: over these I suppose was a pavement.
-This is an excellent invention for heating a room, and might well be
-introduced among us in winter time. In another place is a hollow, where
-burnt wheat has been taken up: some time since colonel Dantsey sent a
-little box full of it to the Antiquarian Society. All around the city
-you may easily trace the walls, some stones being left every where,
-though overgrown by hedges and timber trees. The ground of the city is
-higher than the level of the circumjacent country. There appears no
-sign of a foss or ditch around it. The site of the place is a gentle
-eminence of a squarish form; the earth black and rich, overgrown with
-brambles, oak trees, full of stones, foundations, and cavities where
-they have been digging. Many coins and the like have been found. Mr.
-Ja. Hill, J. C. has many coins found here, some of which he gave to the
-said society. Colonel Dantsey has paved a cellar with square bricks
-dug up here: my lord Coningsby has judiciously adorned the floor of
-his evidence-room with them. This city is overlooked and sheltered
-towards the north with a prodigious mountain of steep ascent crowned
-at the top with a vast camp, which ingirdles its whole _apex_ with
-works altogether inaccessible: it is called Credon hill, seemingly
-British: if you will take the pains to climb it, you are presented with
-a most glorious and extensive prospect, as far as St. Michael’s mount
-in Monmouthshire; bipartite at top, Parnassus-like, and of especial
-fame and resort among the zealots of the Roman creed, who think this
-holy hill was sent hither by St. Patrick out of Ireland, and has
-wonderful efficacy in several cases. On the other hand you see the vast
-black mountain separating Brecknockshire from this county: the city
-Ariconium underneath appears like a little copse. On the other side
-of the Wye you see Dinder hill, whereon is a Roman camp: and upon the
-Lug are Sutton walls, another vast Roman camp upon a hill overtopping
-a beautiful vale, the royal mansion of the most potent king Offa,
-but most notorious for the execrable murder of young king Ethelbert,
-allured thither under pretext of courting his daughter, and buried in
-the adjacent church of Marden, situate in a marsh by the river side:
-hence his body was afterwards conveyed to Hereford and enshrined; but
-the particular place we cannot find. I suppose this martyr’s merits
-were obliterated by the succeeding saint, Cantilupe, the great
-miracle-monger on this side the kingdom, as his tutor and namesake
-Thomas Becket was in Kent.
-
-[Sidenote: +Hereford.+]
-
-In the north wing of the cathedral of Hereford is the shrine where
-Cantilupe was buried, and which wing he himself built: his picture
-is painted on the wall: all around are the marks of hooks where the
-banners, lamps, reliques, and the like presents, were hung up in his
-honour; and, no doubt, vast were the riches and splendor which filled
-this place; and it is well guarded and barricadoed to prevent thieves
-from making free with his superfluities: the shrine is of stone, carved
-round with knights in armour; for what reason I know not, unless
-they were his life-guard. I saw a book, printed at St. Omar’s, of no
-little bulk, which contained an account of his miracles. The church
-is very old and stately, the roof, ailes, and chapel, have been added
-to the more ancient part by succeeding bishops, as also the towers,
-cloysters, &c. The most beautiful chapter-house of a decagonal form,
-and having an umbilical pillar, was destroyed in the civil wars. I
-saw its poor remains, whence I endeavoured to restore the whole in
-drawing as well as I could, from the symmetry and manner of the fabric,
-which I guess to be about Henry the Sixth’s time: there are about four
-windows now standing, and the springing of the stone arches between, of
-fine rib-work, which composed the roof; of that sort of architecture
-wherewith King’s-college chapel at Cambridge is built: two windows were
-pulled down, a very little while ago, by bishop Bisse, which he used
-in new fitting up the episcopal palace: under the windows in every
-compartment was painted a king, bishop, saint, virgin, or the like;
-some I found distinct enough, though so long exposed to the weather.
-Here are the greatest number of monuments of the bishops I ever saw,
-many valuable brasses and tombs, one of Sir Richard Penbrug, knight of
-the garter, which I drew out for Mr. Anstis: in our Lady’s chapel, now
-the library, a fine brass of Isabella the wife of Richard Delamare, ob.
-1421. Between the cathedral and episcopal palace is a most venerable
-pile, exceeding it in date, as I conjecture from its manner of
-composure; built intirely of stone, roofed with stone: it consists of
-two chapels, one above the other: the ground-plot is a perfect square,
-beside the portico and choir: four pillars in the middle, with arches
-every way, form the whole: the portico seems to have a grandeur in
-imitation of Roman works, made of many arches retiring inwards: two
-pillars on each side consist of single stones: the lowermost chapel,
-which is some steps under ground, is dedicated to St. Catharine, the
-upper to St. Magdalen, and has several pillars against the wall, made
-of single stones, and an odd eight-square cupola upon the four middle
-pillars: there have been much paintings upon the walls: the arched roof
-is turned very artfully, and seems to have a taste of that kind of
-architecture used in the declension of the Roman empire.
-
-The city of Hereford stands upon a fine gravel, encompassed with
-springs and rivulets, as well as strong walls, towers, and lunettes;
-all which, with the embattlements, are pretty perfect, and enabled them
-to withstand a most vigorous siege of the Scots army under general
-Lesley. The castle was a noble work, built by one of the Edwards before
-the Conquest, strongly walled about, and ditched: there is a very lofty
-artificial keep, walled once at top, having a well in it faced with
-good stone: by the side of the ditch arose a spring, which superstition
-consecrated to St. Ethelbert: there is a handsome old stone arch
-erected over it. Without the walls are the ruins of Black Friers
-monastery, and a pretty stone cross intire; round which originally were
-the cloysters built, as now the cloysters of the cathedral inclose
-another such. These crosses were in the nature of a pulpit, whence a
-monk preached to the people _sub dio_, as is now practised once a year
-in the cloysters of some colleges in the universities; and I suppose
-Paul’s cross in London was somewhat of this sort. There was likewise an
-opulent priory, dedicated to our country saint, Guthlac of Crowland,
-now intirely ruined: the situation of it in a marshy place best suited
-him. White Friers on the other side the town is intirely ruined: a
-gate-house and several other parts were seen by many now living. All
-these religious conventions (as tradition goes) had subterraneous
-passages into the city under the ditch, that the holy fraternities
-might retire from the fury of war, upon occasion.
-
-In our way from Hereford to Leominster we ascended with some difficulty
-the mighty Dynmaur hill, the meaning of which appellation is the great
-hill: it makes us some amends for the tediousness of climbing, by the
-extensive and pleasant prospect it affords us from its woody crest
-commanding a vast horizon.
-
-[Sidenote: +Leominster.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XXII.]
-
-Leominster is a town of brisk trade in manufactures of their admirable
-wool, in hat-making, leather, and many others; it lies in a valley
-luxuriant above measure. Three rivers of very swift current go
-through the town, besides others very near: nor will the industrious
-inhabitants suffer the water-nymphs that preside over the streams to
-be idle: for with mills, and machinery of various contrivance, they
-make them subservient to many uses in the way of their trades. Here was
-a considerable priory on the north-side of the church, two ailes of
-which are very ancient, and I suppose belonged to the priory: two other
-ailes of more lightsome work have been added. The mayor, who invited
-us to attend him thither, had a long black _caduceus_ to walk withall,
-tipped with silver. There are some poor remains of the priory, chiefly
-a little chapel, which I imagine belonged to the prior’s family:
-underneath it runs a pretty rivulet, which used to grind his corn,
-now converted to a fulling-mill: near are very large ponds for fish,
-to furnish the monks on fasting days. There was a fine gate-house,
-pulled down not long since, near the Ambry close, denominated from the
-place (Almery) in which they gave their scraps away to poor people
-at the gate, as I have observed at several other religious houses:
-this is reckoned a great argument of their charity, whilst idle folks
-lost their time in waiting for it. Round the cross built of timber I
-saw this inscription, _Vive deo gratus, toti mundo tumulatus, crimine
-mundatus, semper transire paratus_, and some more stuff of that sort.
-In this town the soil is luxuriant above measure: trees of all sorts
-flourish prodigiously: we were surprised at the extravagant bulk of
-plants, leaves of dock as big as an ordinary tea-table, comfry leaves
-as long as my arm. Mr. Gale and I disputed a good while about borage
-quite grown out of cognizance.
-
-We were entertained by my lord Coningsby at his seat of Hampton-court,
-three miles off: at dinner time, one of the ancient bards in an
-adjacent room played to us upon the harp, and at proper intervals threw
-in many notes of his voice, with a swelling thrill, after a surprising
-manner, much in the tone of a flute. This is a fine seat, built by our
-countryman Harry of Bolingbroke, afterwards Henry the Fourth: it is,
-castle like, situate in a valley, upon a rapid river under coverture
-of Dynmaur: the gardens very pleasant, (the finest greens I ever saw)
-terminated by vast woods covering all the sloping side of the hill;
-whose wavy tops, when agitated by the wind, entertain the eye with a
-most agreeable spectacle, and verdant theatric concavity, as high,
-and as far, as you can well see. Here is a great command of water,
-on all sides of the house, for fountains, basons, canals: within are
-excellent pictures of the earl’s ancestors, and others, by the best
-hands; Holbein, Dobson, Van Dyke, Sir P. Lely, &c. there is an original
-of the founder, Henry the Fourth, of queen Elizabeth, of the duchess
-of Portsmouth, &c. The windows of the chapel are well painted, some
-images of the Coningsbys: here are two new stone stair-cases after a
-geometrical method, with a view, I suppose, of security from fire: the
-record-room is at top of a tower arched with stone, paved with Roman
-brick; an iron door. From the top of the house goes a stair-case,
-which they say has a subterraneous conveyance into Dynmaur wood;
-which was the method of ancient times to escape the last extremity of
-a siege. After dinner my lord did us the honour to ride out with us
-into the park, which for beauty, diversity, and use, is very fine: it
-is eight miles in circumference, and has all the variety of scenes
-you can imagine; about 1200 head of deer in it: there are extensive
-prospects, on one side reaching into Wiltshire; on another, over the
-Welsh mountains; lawns, groves, canals, hills and plains. There is a
-pool three quarters of a mile long, very broad, included between two
-great woods: the dam that forms it across a valley, cost 800l. and
-was made in a fortnight by 200 hands. There is a new river cut quite
-through the park, the channel of which for a long way together is
-hewn out of the rock: this stream enriches with derivative channels
-vast tracts of land that before was barren. Here are new gardens and
-canals laid out, and new plantations of timber in proper places to
-complete its pleasures; warrens, decoys, sheep-walks, pastures for
-cattle, and the like, intirely supply the house with all necessaries
-and conveniences, without recourse to a market. His lordship showed us
-in his study four or five vast books in manuscript, being transcripts
-out of the record-offices, relating to his manors, royalties, estates
-and muniments, which cost him 500l. in writing and fees: many of his
-galleries and passages are adorned with the genealogy of his family,
-their pictures, arms, grants, history, &c. The Roman road from
-Ariconium to Uriconium lies west of Lemster by Stretford; then passes
-over the Arrow, the Oney, the Lug; so through Biriton, two miles north
-of Lemster, where they dig up the pavement of it, as it runs through
-the grounds, made of squarish rag-stone.
-
-[Illustration: 22 +Religiou_s_ Ruin_s_+
-
- _Remnant of the Priory of Leominster Sep. 14. 1722._
-
- _Black Fryers in Glocester._
- _Aug. 24. 1721._
-
- _Stukeley delin._ & Nobilissimo Thomæ Comiti de Coningsby DD. _E
- Kirkall sculp._]
-
-[Sidenote: +Ludlow.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. IV. V.]
-
-Our next expedition was to Ludlow, a place of fame and antiquity, the
-residence of the lords presidents of Wales under the prince. In the way
-hither we found the _euonymus pannonicus_ in the hedges. This town is
-walled quite round, and pretty strong, having five gates, situate upon
-a hill-top, running from south-east with an ascent towards north-west,
-on which, precipitous to the north and west, stands the castle. On
-the south side runs the Teme, fettered with numerous dams across, in
-nature of cataracts; by which means abundance of mills are turned: the
-superfluous water pours over them, cascade-like, with a mighty noise.
-Here is a very good church and handsome tower, with a pleasant ring of
-six bells in the cross thereof: the windows are full of painted glass
-pretty intire: there are some old monuments of the lords presidents,
-&c. and an inscription upon the north wall of the choir relating to
-prince Arthur, who died here: his bowels were buried in this place:
-one told me they took up his heart not long since in a leaden box.
-In the eastern angle of the choir is a closet, anciently called the
-_God-house_, where the priests locked up their roods, wafers, and
-such things: it has a window strongly barred outward. This church is
-consecrated to St Laurence: and in the market-place is an hexagonal
-cistern, or conduit, like a cross; on the top of which is a long stone
-cross, bearing a niche with an image of that saint in it. West of
-the church was a college, now converted to a dwelling-house, whose
-owner showed us a pretty collection of pictures, one by Holben. There
-was a rich priory out of the town on the north side; small ruins now
-to be seen, except a little adjoining church once belonging to it:
-about the same place an arched gate-way went cross the street, but
-now demolished. The greatest rarity of Ludlow is the noble and strong
-castle and palace, placed on the north-west angle of the town upon a
-rock, commanding a delightful prospect northward; but on the west,
-where runs the river, it is overlooked by a high hill. It is strongly
-environed by embattled walls of great height and thickness, with
-towers at convenient distances: that half which is within the walls
-of the town is secured moreover with a deep ditch; the other founded
-on the solid rock. It is divided into two separate parts; the castle,
-properly so speaking, wherein the palace and lodgings; and the green,
-or out-work, what I suppose they call the Barbican: the first is in
-the strongest or north-west corner, and has likewise walls and ditch
-hewn out of the rock towards the green: this was the residence of the
-lords presidents: it was a noble structure, but now, alas! only groans
-out with its last breath the glories of its ancient state. A chapel
-here has abundance of coats of arms upon the panels; so has the hall,
-together with lances, spears, firelocks and old armour; but the present
-inhabitants live upon the sale of the timber, stone, iron, and other
-materials and furniture, which dwindles away insensibly. Here died
-prince Arthur. The green takes in a large compass of ground, wherein
-was formerly the court of judicature and records, the stables, garden,
-bowling-green and other offices; all which now lie in ruins, or are let
-out at rack-rents to those that pilfer what they can: over several of
-the stable-doors are queen Elizabeth’s arms, the earls of Pembroke’s,
-and others.
-
-Hence we went along the river Teme to Tenbury. In a niche in the
-chancel is a stone, a yard long, of a child of lord Arundel’s of
-Sutton-house, as they say, dressed like a knight, cross-legged: another
-knight cross-legged under the south wall of the church; on his shield a
-chevron between three stars pierced. In the meadow, upon the river, a
-_tumulus_ covered with old oaks, called Castle-mead bower, or burrow.
-
-[Sidenote: +Bewdley.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XIII. XIV.]
-
-Bewdley is a pleasant town by sweet meadows upon the Severn, which is
-the most delightful river I have seen. Here, upon a hill over-looking
-the town, is Tickenhall, built by Henry VII. for his son prince
-Arthur; part of the old palace is standing, of timber-work: here was
-a park too, part of Wire forest. This is a thriving town. A mile off
-is Ribsford, the seat of the lord Herbert of Cherbury, pleasantly
-encompassed with woods. Here is a good picture of William I. earl
-of Pembroke: the ends of the hills toward the river are generally
-rocks. Blackston hill has an hermitage cut out of it, with a chapel
-and several apartments, which I have represented in prospect and
-ground-plot: near it is a pretty rock upon the edge of the water,
-covered with Nature’s beautiful canopy of oaks and many curious plants:
-near the water, upon the rock, _liver-wort_ grows plentifully. They
-dig up coal hereabouts, about twelve yards under ground. Kederminster
-is but two miles off: in the church a cross-legged monument of Sir
-Tho. Acton. In Wulverhampton church are several old monuments; a brass
-statue of Sir Richard Leveson, who fought the Spaniards under Sir
-Francis Drake: there is a very old stone pulpit, and a very old stone
-cross in the church-yard. Was I to chuse a country residence for health
-and pleasure, it would be undoubtedly on the west side of the island,
-not far from this river, and where it is most distant from the sea; for
-natural reasons, which I need not mention to you.
-
- Bewdley, 17 Sept. 1721.
-
-[Illustration: 4 _The North Prospect of Ludlow Castle._]
-
-[Illustration: _The Ichnography of Ludlow Castle._
-
-_Stukeley delin._ _I. Harris Sculp._]
-
-[Illustration: 5 _The West prospect of Ludlow Castle. Sep. 16. 1721._
-
- Robto Cornwall Barrᵗᵗᵒ. d.d. _W. Stukeley_]
-
-[Illustration: 13 _View of_ Blackston Cave. _River Severn & Lᵈ.
- Herberts house near_ Bewdley _Sep. 23. 1721_.
-
- _Stukeley delin:_ _E. Kirkall sculp:_]
-
-[Illustration: 14 HERMITAGES.
-
- _The Groundplot & Section of an Hermitage near Bewdley._
-
- _The Hermitage at Dale Abby_
-
- _W Stukeley Del_]
-
-
-
-
- ITER ROMANUM. V.
-
- _Salve magna parens frugum Britanica tellus,
- Magna virum! tibi res antiquæ laudis & artis
- Ingredior. Sanctos ausus recludere fontes,
- Antiquum repeto Romana per oppida cursum. +Virg.+
- Nam quid Britannum cœlum differre putamus._ +Lucret. vi.+
-
-
- _To my Lord_ WINCHELSEA.
-
-The journey I here present your lordship is intirely Roman; for I went
-from London full northward to the banks of the Humber, upon the famous
-Hermen-street road, passing through Lincoln: then coasting about a
-little, at Lincoln again I took the Foss way to its intersection of the
-Watling-street in Warwickshire: upon that I returned back to London,
-and pursued it to the sea-coasts of Kent: likewise some part of the
-Icening-street, as it crosses the others, where it lay not too far
-out of my main route, was the subject of my enquiry: so that in this
-account is somewhat of all these four great roads of Britain, which
-our old monkish writers make a considerable harangue about, but are
-scarce able fully to distinguish them, and of the reason of their names
-say but little to our satisfaction: but the ways themselves, as drawn
-quite a-cross the island in different directions, are sufficiently
-manifest to a traveller of common sagacity. Though my discoveries
-herein are mean enough, yet I reckon this an happy _æra_ of my life,
-because, the very day before I undertook it, I had the good fortune to
-be known to your lordship, and at the end of it enjoyed the pleasurable
-repose of your delightful seat at Eastwel, but what is more, your own
-conversation: since then your many favours, like all other felicities
-in life, give me uneasiness in the midst of joy, as sensible of my own
-little merit. I have no hope indeed of retaliating; and I know that
-great minds like yours imitate Providence, expecting no return from its
-beneficiaries: but it is consentaneous to human nature to endeavour at
-it, and offer tokens of gratitude, however unequal. The delight you
-take in rescuing the monuments of our ancestors, your indefatigable
-zeal in collecting them, your exquisite knowledge in the Greek, Roman,
-and British antiquities, and especially your great love for those of
-your own country, which you continually commit to writing in your
-private commentaries, add a reputation to these studies, and make the
-Muses hope for a sunshine, when men of your lordship’s noble birth
-entertain them with that familiarity and condescension which was one
-great glory of the Augustan age.
-
-[Sidenote: Roman _roads_.]
-
-For arts military and civil, that became a most wise government, the
-Romans beyond compare exceeded all nations; but in their roads they
-have exceeded themselves: nothing but the highest pitch of good sense
-and public spirit could prompt them to so immense a labour: it is
-altogether astonishing to consider how they begirt the whole globe,[50]
-as it were, with new meridians and great circles all manner of ways; as
-one says,
-
- _Magnorum fuerat solers hæc cura Quiritum
- Constratas passim concelebrare vias._
-
-As well as use, they studied eternity in all their works, just opposite
-to our present narrow souls, who say, It will serve our time well
-enough. For this reason they made few bridges, as liable to decay;
-but fords were laid with great skill and labour, many of which remain
-firm to this day without any reparation. No doubt but the Romans
-gave names to these roads from the commanders under whose government
-and direction they were laid out, as was their custom elsewhere: but
-because they generally held their posts here but for a short time, and
-perhaps scarce any finished one road intirely; therefore, whilst each
-endeavoured to stamp his own name upon them, so it fell out that they
-were all forgotten. The present appellatives seem to be derived either
-from the British or Saxon: William the Conqueror calls them _Chemini
-majores_ in confirming the laws of St. Edward about these four ways.
-All misdemeanours committed upon them were decided by the king himself.
-Though there was no need of paving or raising a bank in some places,
-yet it was done for a perpetual direction; and every where I suppose
-stones were set at a mile’s distance, many of which are still left.
-Of these four celebrated ways, the Foss and Icening-street traverse
-the kingdom from south-west to north-east, parallel to one another:
-the Watling-street crossed them quite the contrary way, with an equal
-obliquity: the Hermen-street passed directly north and south: and
-besides these are very many more. I purpose not to give a full history
-of them here, any farther than I travel upon them, reserving that till
-I am better able.
-
-[Sidenote: +Hermen-street.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LVI.]
-
-[Sidenote: Br. _camp._]
-
-Somewhat on the Hermen-street is said already in my first letter
-about Lincolnshire, where it divides itself into two, which we may
-call the old and the new branch. Here I design to search it up to its
-fountain-head. As to its name, we have no reason to seek any farther
-than the Saxon language, where _Here_ signifies an army; _Hereman_, a
-soldier or warriour:[51] the Hermen-street then is the military street,
-in the same propriety the Romans used it. It begins at Newhaven, at
-the mouth of the river Ouse in Sussex, and passes on the west side the
-river through Radmil, probably taking its name thence; so through Lewis
-by Isfield: then it seems to pass over the river at Sharnbridge, as we
-may guess by its name, and so proceeds to East Grinsted, but I suppose
-lost in passing through the great woods: then through Surrey it goes by
-Stane-street, Croydon, Stretham, and, by its pointing, we may suppose
-was designed originally to pass the Thames at the ferry called Stangate
-by Lambeth, where it coincides with the Watling-street. Of this I can
-say nothing yet, having not travelled it. There I apprehend the road
-went before London became very considerable; but when the majesty of
-the place suddenly arose to great height, this road, and all others
-directed this way, deflected a little from their primitive intention,
-to salute the _Augusta_ of Britain, destined to be the _altera Roma_;
-and this has rendered them all obscure near the city. It is generally
-thought the Hermen-street goes hence through Bishopsgate, and along
-the northern road; but I apprehend that to be of much later standing
-than the original one, which goes more on the west. By the quotation I
-mentioned in my first letter, when upon this road, out of Mr. Gale’s
-Itinerary, of Lowlsworth near Bishopsgate, it seems as if it was done
-in Lollius Urbicus his time. The original one perhaps passes through
-unfrequented ways near Enfield and Hermen-street, seeming to retain
-the old name: on the eastern side of Enfield chace, by Bush hill, is a
-circular British camp upon an eminence declining south-west; but our
-ancient road appears upon a common on this side of Hertford by Ball’s
-park, and so passes the river below Hertford; then goes through Ware
-park, and falls into the present road on this side Wadesmill,[52] and
-so to Royston. Here must have been several stations upon it, but I
-see no hope of ever retrieving their names: that Hertford is one is
-reasonable to think, it having been ever in the royal demesne, and
-passing a river at a proper distance from London: but in the assignment
-of _Durocobrovis_ here, I take leave to dissent from Camden and other
-learned men; it by no means answers the distances in the Itinerary, or
-the import of the name; the Red Ford, or the Ford of Harts, are fancies
-without foundation: either _trajectus militaris_ is the meaning, or
-it is the passage of the river Ard, now the Beane: Ardley at the
-spring-head of it: _ardh_ in British is _altus_.
-
-[Sidenote: +Icening-street.+]
-
-[Sidenote: +Wilbury.+ Br.]
-
-[Sidenote: Ro. _camp._]
-
-[Sidenote: +Harbury Banks.+ Br.]
-
-At Royston the Icening-street crosses the Hermen-street, coming from
-Dunstable going into Suffolk: this about Baldock appears but like a
-fieldway, and scarce the breadth of a coach, the farmers on both sides
-industriously ploughing it up: between Baldock and Icleford it goes
-through an intrenchment, taking in the top of a hill of good compass,
-but of no great elevation: it consists of a _vallum_ only, and such a
-thing as I take to be properly the remains of a British _oppidum_: it
-is called Wilbury hill, and is said to have been woody not intirely
-beyond memory: this street, quite to the Thames in Oxfordshire, goes
-at the bottom of a continued ridge of hills called the Chiltern, being
-chalk, the natural as well as civil boundaries between the counties
-of Hertford and Bedford, very steep northward. Ickleford retains the
-name of the street, which at this place passes a rivulet with a stoney
-ford wanting reparation. Near Periton church has been a castle of
-Saxon or Norman times, with a keep. These high chalk hills, having a
-fine prospect northward, are covered with a beautiful turf like the
-Wiltshire downs, and have such like barrows here and there, and indeed
-are but a continuation of them quite a-cross the kingdom. Near Hexton
-is a square Roman camp upon a _lingula_, or promontory, just big enough
-for the purpose: it is very steep quite round, except at a narrow
-slip where the entrance is; double ditched, and very strong, but
-land-locked with hills every way, except to the north-east, and that
-way has a good prospect: under it is a fine spring: it seems made by
-the Romans when they were masters of all the country on this side, and
-extending their arms northward. On High downs is a pleasant house by a
-wood, where is a place called Chapel close: in this wood are barrows
-and dikes, perhaps of British original. Liliho is a fine plot of ground
-upon a hill steep to the north-west, where a horse-race is kept: from
-under it goes the Icening-street by Stretley to Dunstable. North of
-Baldoc we visited the camp by Ashwel, taken notice of in Camden, called
-Harbury banks: it is of a theatrical form, consisting wholly of an
-_agger_: though Roman coins have been found in it, I am inclinable to
-think it is earlier than their times. Between Calcot and Henxworth, two
-miles off, several Roman antiquities have been dug up this year; many
-in the custody of my friend Simon Degg, esq; he gave me this account of
-it: some workmen, digging gravel for the repair of the great northern
-road, struck upon some earthen vessels, or large urns, full of burnt
-bones and ashes, but rotten: near them a human skeleton, with the
-head towards the south-east, the feet north-west: several bodies were
-found in this manner not above a foot under the surface of the earth,
-and with urns great or small near them, and _pateras_ of fine red
-earth, some with the impression of the maker on the bottom: there were
-likewise glass lachrymatories, _ampullas_, a _fibula_ of brass, six
-small glass rings, two long glass beads of a green colour, and other
-fragments.
-
-[Sidenote: +Salinæ.+]
-
-Northward still upon a high sandy hill, by the bank of the river
-Ivel, is a Roman camp called Chesterton: under it lies the town
-called Sandy, or Salndy, the _Salinæ_ of the Romans in Ptolemy,
-where great quantities of Roman and British antiquities have been
-found, and immense numbers of coins, once a brass _Otho_, vases,
-urns, lachrymatories, lamps. Mr. Degg has a cornelian intaglia, and a
-British gold coin dug up here, _Tascio_ upon it. Thomas Bromsal esq.
-has a fine silver _Cunobelin_ found here, of elegant work; others of
-Titus, Agrippina, Trajan, Hadrian, Augustus, Antoninus Pius, Faustina,
-Constantius Chlorus, Constantinus Magnus, Carausius, Alectus, Tetricus,
-and many more.[53] His great grandfather, high-sheriff of this county,
-preserved the invaluable Cottonian library from plunder in the time of
-the commonwealth, whilst it was at Stratton in this county, about anno
-1650. The soil here is sand, perfectly like that on the sea shore. I
-imagine a Roman road passed by this place westward from Grantchester by
-Cambridge.
-
-[Sidenote: +Camboritum.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LIX.]
-
-[Sidenote: Roman _camp_.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XLV.]
-
-Return we to Royston again. Going upon the Icening-street the other
-way, just upon the edge of Cambridgeshire, we come to Chesterford upon
-the river going to Cambridge, near Icleton and Strethal. In July, 1719,
-I discovered the _vestigia_ of a Roman city here: the foundation of
-the walls is very apparent quite round, though level with the ground,
-including a space of about fifty acres: great part of it serves for
-a causeway to the public Cambridge road from London: the Crown inn
-is built upon it:[54] the rest is made use of by the countrymen for
-their carriages to and fro in the fields: the earth is still high on
-both sides of it: in one part they have been long digging this wall up
-for materials in building and mending the roads: there I measured its
-breadth twelve foot, and remarked its composition of rag stone,
-flints and Roman brick: in a little cottage hard by, the parlour is
-paved with bricks; they are fourteen inches and an half long, and nine
-broad. In the north-west end of the city,[55] the people promised
-to show me a wonderful thing in the corn, which they observed every
-year with some sort of superstition. I found it to be the foundation
-of a Roman temple very apparent, it being almost harvest time: here
-the poverty of the corn growing where the walls stood, defines it to
-such a nicety, that I was able to measure it with exactness enough:
-the dimensions of the cell, or _naos_, were fifteen foot in breadth,
-forty in length; the _pronaos_, where the steps were, appeared at both
-ends, and the wall of the portico around, whereon stood the pillars.
-I remarked that the city was just a thousand Roman feet in breadth,
-and that the breadth to the length was as three to five, of the same
-proportion as they make their bricks: it is posited obliquely to the
-cardinal points, its length from north-west to south-east; whereby
-wholesomeness is so well provided for, according to the direction of
-Vitruvius. The river Cam runs under the wall, whence its name; for
-I have no scruple to think this was the _Camboritum_ of Antoninus,
-meaning the ford over this river, or the crooked ford: in Lincolnshire
-we called a crooked stick, the butchers use, a _cambril_.[56] They have
-found many Roman coins in the city or Borough field, as they call it: I
-saw divers of them. In this parish, they say, has been a royal manor:
-not far off, by Audlenhouse, upon an eminence is a great Roman camp
-called Ringhill; a hunting tower of brick now stands upon it. Beyond
-this the Icening-street goes toward Icleworth in Suffolk, parting the
-counties of Cambridge and Essex all the way; and almost parallel to it
-runs a great ditch, viz. from Royston to Balsham, called Brentditch,
-where it turns and goes to the river below Cambridge, there called
-Flightditch. I imagine these to be ancient boundaries of the Britons,
-and before the Roman road was made, which naturally enough would have
-served for a distinction by the Saxons, as at other places, had their
-limits lain hereabouts. Two miles both ways of Royston is chalky
-soil:[57] about Puckeridge it is gravelly. On Bartlow hills there is
-a camp too, castle camps, and Roman antiquities found: I am told of
-three remarkable barrows thereabouts, where bones have been dug out.
-At Hadstok they talk of the skin of a Danish king nailed upon the
-church-doors.
-
-[Illustration: 59 +Camboritvm.+
- _21. Aug. 1722._
-
- _Thomæ Bawtre Conterraneo Suo Tabula votiva._
-
- _Stukeley delin._]
-
-[Illustration: 45 _The_ Hunting Tower _in the Ro. Camp near_ Littlebury
- _Aug. 21. 1722._
-
- _View of_ Silchester Walls _from the N.E. corner Aug. 5. 1722. Ro.
- Brick & Flint._
-
- _Stukeley delin:_ & Amico Peregrino Bertie Ar. vovet. _E. Kirkall
- sculp:_]
-
-Now we shall take along with us the Itinerary of Antoninus in his
-fifth journey; for after he has gone from London toward Colchester,
-and part of Suffolk, he turns into this Icening-street at _Icianis_,
-which seems to be Icesworth beyond St. Edmundsbury; from whence to
-this _Camboritum_ is thirty-five miles: from thence to Huntingdon is
-just twenty-five, as they are noted; but it is to be supposed that
-the Itinerary went along the Icening-street to Royston, then took the
-Hermen-street; for so the miles exactly quadrate.
-
-[Sidenote: +Royston.+ Ro. _town_.]
-
-Royston, as being seated upon the intersection of these two roads, no
-doubt was a Roman town[58] before Roisia[59] built her religious house
-here, and perpetuated her own name upon the Roman, which is now lost;
-and this very year they found Roman coins near there: but there seems
-to be the stump of her cross still remaining at the corner of the inn
-just where the two roads meet. The Hermen-street now coincides all the
-way with the common northern road. At Arminton, denominated from it,
-passes another branch of the river going to Cambridge in Armingford
-hundred; so by Caxton, which was probably a baiting-place: there are
-some old works without the town. A red clay begins now. Anno 1721,
-near this road my lord Oxford, digging canals at Wimpole, found many
-bodies, and pieces of iron rusty, the remains of some battle. Wimpole
-is now improved and honoured with his residence, and the noble Harleian
-library.
-
-[Sidenote: +Durocinonte.+]
-
-At Godmanchester, or Gormanchester, on this side Huntingdon river, the
-name _chester_ ascertains the Roman _castrum_ to have been; nor is
-there any dispute of it, however critics vary about its name, whether
-_Durosiponte_ or _Durocinonte_; whether there was a bridge, a ferry,
-or a ford, in most ancient times: no doubt but the Romans inhabited
-both sides of the river, and probably rather at Huntingdon, being a
-much better situation; therefore, as to antiquities here found, I hold
-myself more excusable if at present I have nothing to say. Mr. Camden
-tells us Roman coins have been frequently ploughed up at Gormanchester,
-and Henry of Huntingdon says it has been a noble city: but I took
-notice of a wooden bridge over a rivulet between the two towns, which
-ought not to be forgot, as a grateful and public charity, having this
-inscription.
-
- ROB̄TUS COOK EMERGENS AQUIS HOC VIATORIBUS
- SACRUM DD. 1636.
-
-In Huntingdon is the house where Oliver Cromwell was born: though it is
-new-built, yet they preserved that room in its first state.[60]
-
-[Sidenote: +Stukeley.+]
-
-From hence the Hermen-street goes in a strait line through Great and
-Little Stukeley, so called from the soil, and most anciently written
-_Styvecle_, signifying a stiff clay.[61] I should be ungrateful to my
-ancestors, not to mention that hence they had their name and large
-possessions in both towns, and many others hereabouts. I have the
-genealogy of them from Herebert be Styvecle, mentioned in Madox _Hist.
-Scaccar. cap._ xiv. _fol._ 382. _mag. rot._ 12. H. II. _rot._ 6. Cant.
-& Hunt. which shows that they had lands here before. His descendants
-of this place have been high sheriffs of the counties of Huntingdon
-and Cambridge more than thirty times, and knights of the shire in
-parliament more than forty times: but I remember Lucan says,
-
- ————_perit omnis in illo
- Nobilitas, cujus laus est in origine sola._
-
-In Great Stukeley church is a font of a very ancient make, and in
-the north aile a monumental brass of Sir Nicholas Styvecle: the legend
-round the verge of the stone was kept for some time in the town chest,
-when it was taken off being loose, but now lost: the effigies being
-in the same condition, we carried it to be hung up in the hall now
-belonging to James Torkington esq; whose ancestors married the heiress
-of the family, and now enjoys the estate.
-
-[Illustration: 17 +Inclytus Ailwinus Totius Angliæ Aldermanus Fundator
- Abbatiæ de Ramsey, (In Lapide. 1719.)+
-
- _W. Stukeley delin._ _& Amicissimo S. Gale Ar. D.D._ _E. Kirkall
- sculp:_]
-
-[Sidenote: +Conington+.]
-
-[Sidenote: +Ramsey+.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XVII.]
-
-The Hermen-street hence becomes notorious by the name of Stangate;
-whence we may conjecture that it was originally paved with stone:
-a mile beyond Little Stukeley it turns somewhat to the right, and
-then proceeds full north and south: near Stilton some parts appear
-still paved with stone: it passes through great woods between the two
-Saltrys, where was a religious foundation of Simon Silvanect II. earl
-of Huntingdon and Northampton; among whose ruins lie buried Robert
-Brus, lord of Anandale in Scotland, and of Cleveland in England, with
-Isabel his wife, from whom the Scottish branch of our royal family is
-descended. Near the road-side Roman urns have been dug up. I thought
-it piety to turn half a mile out of the road, to visit Conington, the
-seat of the noble Sir Robert Cotton, where he and the great Camden have
-often sat in council upon the antiquities of Britain, and where he had
-a choice collection of Roman inscriptions, picked up from all parts of
-the kingdom. I was concerned to see a stately old house of hewn stone
-large and handsome lie in dismal ruin, the deserted _lares_ and the
-_genius_ of the place fled: by it a most beautiful church and tower;
-in the windows is fine painted glass, but of what sort I know not: a
-poor cottage or two seem to be the whole town, once the possession of
-the kings of Scotland.[62] From those woods aforementioned, standing on
-high ground, you see all over the level of the fens, particularly that
-huge reservoir of water called Whitlesey-mere, full of fish, and a very
-pleasant place in summer time, where the gentry have little vessels to
-sail in for diversion: upon this hill Sir Robert Cotton, digging the
-foundation of a house, found the skeleton of a fish twelve foot long. A
-little to the right lies Ramsey, famous for a rich abbey, where every
-monk lived like a gentleman: there is little of it left now, but a part
-of the old gate-house. In the yard I saw the neglected statue of the
-famous Alwyn the founder, called alderman of all England, cousin to
-king Edgar: I take this to be one of the most ancient pieces of English
-sculpture which we knew of: the _insignia_ he has in his hand, the keys
-and ragged staff, relate to his office. Anno 1721 many pecks of Roman
-coins were found there. Probably from the name we may conjecture it
-was a Roman town. Near it is Audrey causeway: at the south end of it,
-in the parish of Willingham, a camp of a circular form, large, called
-Belsar’s hills, thought that of William the Conqueror, or his general
-Belasis, when busied in the reduction of the isle of Ely, or Odo
-Balistarius. A Roman pavement found at Ramsey.
-
-Stilton, or Stickleton, analogous to _Stivecle_, is famous for cheese,
-which they sell at 12d. per pound, and would be thought equal to
-Parmesan, were it not too near us. Beyond here the road is perfect,
-with a ridge upon the open fields, for a long way together: it goes
-pretty near north and south about Stangate; but now it takes a turn
-to the left a little, to avoid the vast fens full before our view. I
-cannot but take notice of the great stones, set at every mile from
-Grantham hither by Mr. Boulter, which he designed to have carried on
-to London. Any thing that assists or amuses travellers is most highly
-commendable: hence the good understanding of the ancients prompted them
-to set their funeral monuments by the road side, not crouded round
-their temples: they knew the absurdity of filling the mind with ideas
-of melancholy, at such times as they approached the sacred altars:
-there nought but what is beautiful and great ought to appear, as
-most besuiting the place where we seek the Deity. With them Mercury
-was the god of ways, and the _custos manium_. I have often wondered
-that the cheap and easy method of setting up posts with directions at
-every cross road is so little practised; which methinks deserves to be
-enforced by a law: it would teach the carpenters that make them, and
-the country people, to read, with much more emolument to the public
-than some other methods now in vogue: of other uses I need say nothing.
-All the country between Huntingdon river and Peterborough river is
-clay, sand, and gravel; but beyond that to the Humber is stone. At
-Gunwath ferry over Peterborough river is a new bridge, where boats too
-pay a toll; such is the modern way of encouraging trade and navigation.
-The people of Peterborough are averse to having their river made
-navigable, out of an absurd notion that it will spoil their trade.
-
-[Sidenote: +Durobrivis.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XIII. 2d Vol.]
-
-The imperial Itinerary makes 35 miles between the last station,
-_Durocinonte_, and _Durobrivis_;[63] but a decimal too much is put
-into the number, for 25 is full enough: it is indeed 25 measured miles
-from Huntingdon river to the Nen at Caster: there is no dispute but
-Chesterton by Caster is the place. Dornford retains somewhat of the
-old name, where the road traversed the river by a bridge (of brass,
-the common people say.) At Chesterton on this side is a large tract
-of ground, called the Castle field, with a ditch and rampart around
-it:[64] the Roman road runs directly through it, and still retains
-its high ridge. I observe every where near the fenny country great
-precaution and strength employed; which seems owing to the incursions
-of the Britons from that part, who, no doubt, retired into these
-fastnesses as their last refuge, when the Roman arms shined all around
-them: and that reason must induce the Romans very early to think of
-draining the country, and rendering it provincial, which was the only
-means of preventing that inconvenience. The Hermen-street beyond the
-river runs for some space along the side of it upon the meadow, then
-turns up with an angle, and proceeds full north. Caster[65] is above
-half a mile from it, upon the hill. I espied a bit of the foundation of
-the wall of the Roman _castrum_ in the street to the north-west corner
-of the church, under the wall of the house where the minister lives:
-it is easily known by the vast strength of the mortar, built of the
-white slab-stone of the country: this _castrum_ then went round the
-church-yard, and took in the whole top of the hill, facing the mid day
-sun. Underneath it lay the city; for below the church-yard the ground
-is full of foundations and Mosaics: I saw a bit of a pavement in the
-cellar of the ale-house (the Boot.)
-
- ————_varias ubi picta per artes
- Gaudet humus, suberantque novis asarota figuris._ +Stat. Silv.+
-
-[Illustration: 13·2ᵈ. _over the Quire door in Castor chh._
-
- _Prospect of Castor_, Durobrivis. 11. July. 1724._
-
- _Stukeley delin._ _E. Kirkall sculp._]
-
-They know of many such: particularly at Mr. Wright’s, and in the
-landlord’s garden, is an intire one untouched. Roman coins are found in
-great abundance: I have before me a long and particular catalogue of
-many I have seen of all times, from the consular to the later emperors,
-in brass and silver, but think it a nauseous formality to print them: a
-few I will repeat of the silver.
-
- _M. poblic_ ℞ — _nus imp._
- _Ant._ III. _vir_ _leg._ VI.
- _Sabin_ _l. titur._ the rape of the Sabins.
- _Augustus divi fil._ _imp_ x _act_.
- _Cæsar Augustus pater patriæ._ _Augusti f. cos. design. princ. juvent._
- [exergue] _Cl. Cæsaris_
- _Augustus Cæsar_ a comet. _idus jun._
- _Cæsar_ _l. juli l. f._ a chariot drawn by cupids.
- _Hadrian Cos._ III. _Ægyptos_, a recumbent figure with the
- _sistrum_.
- _Theodosius_ _virtus romanorum tr. p. s._
- _Silanus_ _l. f. roma._
-
-These among more are in the possession of Monsieur Baillardeau.[66] In
-the ploughed fields between the town and the river, toward Ford-green,
-they are often found, with earthen pipes, bricks, and- all sorts of
-antiquities: in that field is a tract running quite through, whereon
-corn grows very poorly, which is nothing but a street or road laid
-with a deep bed of gravel: the vulgar have a foolish story about it,
-as at other places, and say that lady Kyneburg cursed it; by whom
-they mean the abbess that built a religious house here, which stood
-eastward of the church: some part of it is still left. This meadow is
-called Norman-gate field, or more properly Dorman-gate, some corrupted
-memorial of the ancient name of the town, which extended itself hither;
-and foundations are found all about here, and innumerable coins, which
-they call Dorman pence: part of this is Berrysted, where antiquities
-are dug up every day. Higher up toward Peterborough is Mill-field:
-Mosaic pavements are there dug up, and other things; and seems to have
-been a little citadel belonging to the town. Part of the church is of
-an ancient fabric, but new modelled: there is a curious inscription
-upon a stone over the choir door thus: (the letters are raised.)
-
- XVᵒ. KLˢ MAI. DEDICATIO HVIˢ ECLEˢ A. D. Mᵒ. CXIIII.
-
-it is wrong transcribed in Camden. The steeple stands in the middle
-of the church: the tower is a fine piece of ancient architecture with
-semi-circular arches; I judge the spire of later date. The square well
-by the porch no doubt is Roman; it is curbed with hewn stone: though
-it stands on a hill, yet the water is very high: at the east end of
-the church is a very old cross. Mr. Morton is very copious upon this
-station, in his curious history of Northamptonshire; the inquisitive
-reader will consult him: I only recite such things as I saw, and fear
-being tedious upon such places as admit of no doubt among antiquaries.
-A little higher up the river, near Wansford bridge,[67] a gold British
-coin was found, in the possession of Mr. Maurice Johnson, J. C. Anno
-1720, at Thorp, the seat of Sir Francis St. John, by Peterborough, a
-Mosaic pavement was found: this was undoubtedly a villa of some great
-Roman. In the garden here are some fine antique statues of marble,
-but suffering more from the weather, in this moist situation, than
-from age: in the middle is a Livia of coloss proportion, the wife
-of Augustus: in the four quarters are Diana, Amphion, an orator, a
-gladiator: upon the terrace, an admirable Hercules killing Hydra: in
-the court are two equestrian figures in copper, Henry IV. of France,
-and Don John of Austria: within the house over most of the doors are
-placed busts, Bassianus, Caracalla, &c. these antiquities were of the
-Arundel collection.
-
-Hence I travelled upon the Roman road all the way to Stanford. As it
-rises from the water-side of Peterborough river, and passes over the
-corn-fields, it appears in a lofty ridge called Norman-gate, i. e.
-Dorman-gate; only here and there they have dug great holes in it for
-its materials: it goes forwards to Lolham bridges, by the name of
-Long-ditch, which we treated of before, being its oldest and directest
-road, full north and south. In the reign of Nero all the southern part
-of the island was conquered, and the _Brigantes_ were fast friends;
-so that in his time we may conclude the Hermen-street was made as far
-as Sleford by Catus Decianus the procurator, as we suggested in the
-first letter. But now our journey is by the left-hand new branch, and
-which goes out of the other with an angle in the parish of Upton,
-called the Forty-foot way: almost at Southorp, it is inclosed in a
-pasture; but beyond that you find it again, going by Walcot inclosures,
-then through Bernack fields, winding a little to the left hand till
-it enters Burleigh park: its true line from Walcot corner would pass
-through Tolethorp wood, but the river below Stanford was too broad; so
-it passes through Burleigh park, where its gravel is transferred to
-make walks in the gardens: at Wothorp park-wall it appears again with a
-very high ridge and agreeable sight, descending the valley to Stanford
-river, which it passes a little above the town between it and Tynwell;
-then rises again upon the opposite hill, entering Lincolnshire, with
-its broad and elated crest, till it goes to Brigcasterton: it is
-composed all the way of stone, gravel, and hard materials, got near at
-hand: the common road leaves it intirely from Peterborough river to
-Brigcasterton, crossing it at Wothrop park-wall.[68]
-
-[Sidenote: +Brigcasterton.+ Ro. _town_.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XIV. 2d vol.]
-
-Brigcasterton happened most convenient for a station, being ten miles
-from the last, or Durobrivis; but the Itinerary mentions not its name;
-for the distances between them, and likewise to Lincoln, impugn Mr.
-Camden and such as place Causennis here: however, it was fenced about
-with a deep mote on two sides, the river supplying its use on the other
-two; for it stands in an angle, and the Romans made a little curve
-in the road here on purpose to take it in, as it offered itself so
-conveniently, then rectified the obliquity on the other side of the
-town: it consists of one street running through its length upon the
-road: this great ditch and banks are called the Dikes. I saw many coins
-that are found here; and one pasture is called Castle-close at the
-corner: they say the foundation of a wall was dug up there.[69]
-
-[Illustration: 14·2ᵈ. _Prospect of_ Brig casterton _from the Hermen
- Street S. of the Town. 13. July 1724._
-
- _Stukeley delin._ _E. Kirkall sculp._]
-
-[Illustration: 20 _Colsterworth Church Lincolnshire_
-
- Magno NEUTONO _Ecclesiam Parochiæ Ipsius Natalibus celebris Summæ
- Observantiæ Monumentum quam pusillum humillime consecrat Conterraneus
- suus Wˢ. Stukeley, 1722_
-
- _Stukeley Fecit_]
-
-[Sidenote: +Colsterworth.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XX.]
-
-Hence the road goes by Stretton, then leaves a little on the left hand
-Colsterworth, highly memorable for being the birth-place of that vast
-genius Sir Isaac Newton, the darling of Nature, who with a sagacity
-truly wonderful has penetrated into the secret methods of all her great
-operations; of whom Lincolnshire may justly boast: and we may say of
-him, with Lucretius, I.
-
- _Ergo vivida vis animi pervicit, & extra
- Processit longe flammantia mœnia mundi,
- Atque omne immensum peragravit mente animoque._[70]
-
-On the north wall of the chancel is this monument. _Heic jacent
-Gulielmi Walkeri particulæ obiit 1 aug. anno domini 1684. ætat. 61._
-
-[Sidenote: +Causennis.+]
-
-Thirty lesser miles from Durobrivis you come to Paunton,[71] which
-must needs be _Causennis_: it is indeed twenty seven measured miles,
-the Hermen-street accompanying. This village is at present under the
-hill where the road goes near the spring of the Witham, to which I
-suppose its name alludes, as the present to _pant avon_: both signify
-the valley of the river in British: perhaps the most ancient name of
-the river was _Cavata_; whence that part of the country that is watered
-by it assumed the name of Kestevon,[72] importing the river Cavata,
-_Cavaut avon_; as Lindsey from _Lindum_: the present name Witham, or
-_Guithavon_, signifying the separating river, as it principally divides
-these two. Many Roman coins are found here, and all the neighbourhood
-round, and Mosaic pavements, Roman bricks, urns and the like, of a
-curious composition. Mr. Burton speaks of a musive pavement.
-
-[Sidenote: +Ancaster.+ Ro. _town_.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XV. 2d Vol.]
-
-The Hermen-street, now called High-dike road, goes along the heath,
-which preserves it from being worn away; and it is a sight highly
-entertaining. The next town it comes to is Ancaster:[73] what was its
-Roman name I know not; but it has been a very strong city, intrenched
-and walled about; as may be seen very plainly for the most part, and
-perceived by those that are the least versed in these searches. The
-bowling-green behind the Red-lion inn is made in the ditch: when they
-were levelling it, they came to the old foundation. At this end of the
-town, where a dove-cote stands, is Castle close, full of foundations
-appearing every where above ground: the ditch and rampire encompass
-it. Here are prodigious quantities of Roman coins found; many people
-in the town have traded in the sale of them these thirty years: they
-are found too in great plenty upon all the hills round the town,
-especially southward, and toward Castle-pits; so that one may well
-persuade one’s self, that glorious people sowed them in the earth like
-corn, as a certain harvest of their fame, and indubitable evidence of
-their presence at this place. After a shower of rain the school-boys
-and shepherds look for them on the declivities, and never return empty.
-I saw an _Antoninus Pius_, of base silver, found that morning I was
-there: likewise I saw many of Faustina, Verus, Commodus, Gallienus,
-Salonina, Julia Mæsa, Constantius Chlorus, Helena, Maximiana Theodora,
-Constantine the Great, Magnentius, Constans, Tetricus, Victorinus,
-&c.[74] The town consists of one street running north and south along
-the road: there is a spring at both ends of the town, and which, no
-doubt, was the reason of their pitching it at this place; for no more
-water is met with from hence to Lincoln. There is a road on the west
-side of the town, which was for the convenience of those that travelled
-when the gates were shut. On a stone laid upon the church wall I read
-this inscription, in large letters of lead melted into the cavities.
-
- PRIEZ: PUR
- LE: ALME
- SIRE: JOHN
- COLMAN
- CHIVALER
-
-In the church-yard are two priests cut in stone. This has been a
-populous place; for here are great quarries about it, and the rock lies
-very little under the surface. Mr. Camden speaks of vaults found here;
-and W. Harrison, in his description of Britain, II. 17. mentions Mosaic
-pavements.[75] The road seems to bend somewhat in this part, which I
-conjecture was with an intent to take in the springs.
-
-[Illustration: 15·2ᵈ.
-
- _Stukeley delin._ _E. Kirkall sculp._
-
- _Prospect of_ Ancaster. _Iuly 20. 1724._]
-
-[Sidenote: +Hunington.+ Ro. _camp_.]
-
-A mile and half off to the west, in the parish of Hunnington, upon
-a hill surveying a lovely prospect, both toward the sea-coast, and
-into Nottinghamshire, is a summer camp of the Romans, or a _castrum
-exploratorum_, of a square form and doubly trenched, but of no great
-bulk: the entrance seems to have been on the east side. Not long ago,
-in this place, have been dug up, in ploughing, bits of spears, bridles
-and swords, and two urns full of coins: I saw a large brass one of
-Agrippa, and Julia daughter to Augustus, with many more, in possession
-of the Rev. Mr. Garnon of North Witham: his daughter gave me a score of
-them at Newark, Dec. 1728. Mr. Banks, 1735, digging for his new house
-at Ancaster, found much Roman antiquity.
-
-All the way from this road, upon Ancaster heath, we have a view of
-the sea, and the towering height of Boston steeple. A little further
-we come to a place, of no mean note among the country people, called
-Byard’s Leap, where the Newark road crosses the Roman: here is a cross
-of stone, and by it four little holes made in the ground: they tell
-silly stories of a witch and a horse making a prodigious leap, and that
-his feet rested in these holes, which I rather think the boundaries
-of four parishes: perhaps I may be too fanciful in supposing this
-name a corruption of _vialis lapis_. I mentioned before, that here
-I apprehended the Roman road from the fen country passed down the
-hill toward _Crocolana_. Upon our road there are many stones placed;
-but most seem modern, and like stumps of crosses, yet probably are
-mile-stones: it would be of little use to measure the intervals;
-for one would find that the whole distance between two towns was
-equally divided by such a number of paces as came nearest the total.
-Over-against Temple-Bruer is a cross upon a stone, cut through in
-the shape of that borne by the knights Templars, and I suppose a
-boundary of their demesnes: some part of their old church is left, of
-a circular form as usual. _Bruer_ in this place signifies a heath.
-The Hermen-street hereabout is very bold and perfect, made of stone
-gathered all along from the superficial quarries, the holes remaining.
-I observed, whenever it intercepts a valley of any considerable
-breadth, whose water must necessarily drain past it, there is an
-intermission left in the road; for otherwise their work would be vain:
-and the ends of the road are flaunted off neatly for that purpose,
-laying perhaps a small quantity of solid materials to vindicate the
-track, and not hinder the voidance of the rain: it goes perfectly
-strait from Ancaster to Lincoln full north, butting upon the west side
-of Lincoln town. A _tumulus_ some time upon the centre of it: it is
-notorious from hence that the intent of these roads was chiefly to mark
-out the way to such places in the march of their armies; for there can
-be no need of a causeway for travellers, the heath being so perfectly
-good; and that our English word _highway_ is hence derived, and applied
-to public ways. When we come to the towns upon the cliff side, they
-have ploughed up this barren ground on both sides the road, and basely
-lowered it for miles together, by dragging the plough a-cross it at
-every furrow; so that every year levels it some inches, and, was it
-not a public road, it would soon be quite obliterated. Here are six
-villages on the left hand, at a mile distance each, and a little off
-the road, which make an agreeable prospect. Just descending Lincoln
-hill, I saw the true profile of the road broke off by the wearing away
-of the ground: it is about thirty foot broad, made of stone piled up
-into an easy convexity: there is likewise generally a little trench
-dug in the natural earth along both sides of the road, which is of
-great use in conducting the water that falls from the heavens into
-the vallies upon the long side of the road both ways, and prevents its
-lodging and stagnating against the side of their work: the turf that
-came out of those trenches they threw upon the road to cover it with
-grass: thus had they all the curious and convenient ways for beauty,
-use, and perpetuity.[76]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XXVIII.]
-
-Below the hill the Hermen-street meets with the Foss, which now
-united march directly up to the city, across a great vale where the
-river Witham runs, by Mr. Baxter thought the _Victius_ of Ravennas:
-Mr. Leland calls it _Lindis_. As it descends towards Boston, it is
-besieged, as it were, by religious houses, planted at every mile; such
-as Nocton priory, founded by Robert D’arci, lord of the place, 1164.
-now the elegant seat of Sir William Ellys, bart. Kyme priory, founded
-by Philip and Simon de Kyme, knts. to which the Tailboyses added, who
-married the heiress; Barlings abbey, founded by Ralph de Hay, and his
-brother Richard; Stanfield, the seat now of Sir John Tyrwhit, bart.
-Bardney abbey built by king Ethelred, who was buried here anno 712.
-much added by Remigius bishop of Lincoln; Tupholm, founded by Rob. de
-Novavilla; Stikeswold priory of the Benedictine nuns; Kirksted abbey,
-by Hugh de Breton, whose ichnography is discoverable from its ruins;
-Revesby abbey, by William de Romara.
-
-[Sidenote: +Lindum.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LXXXVIII.]
-
-[Sidenote: 1.]
-
-[Sidenote: 2.]
-
-I think it not worth while, in a Roman journey, to dwell upon these
-places, and haste up hill to Lincoln,[77] a great and most famous city
-of theirs, graced with the title and privilege of a colony; therefore
-called _Lindum colonia_; a bold and noble situation upon a high hill,
-which we may think no less than five cities united into one; of all
-which I shall give a short account in their order, as to what I
-observed, without transcribing such matters as the reader will find
-better delivered in authors. My business is to illustrate the 88th
-Plate, which I made by pacing as I walked about the city, intended to
-give the idea of the place as formed originally by the Romans, and
-of their roads leading to and from it. Below the hill, and westward
-of the city, the river throws itself into a great pool, called Swan
-pool from the multitude of swans upon it. All around this place the
-ground is moory, and full of bogs and islets, called now Carham, which
-means a dwelling upon the _car_, that is, the fen. Now here, without
-question, was the British city in the most early times, where they
-drove their cattle backwards and forwards, and retired themselves into
-its inaccessible securities; and from thence I apprehend the name of
-_caer_, signifying a fortification or inclosure in all the most ancient
-languages, came in this country to be retained in these morasses: this
-was its name as a dwelling, or a collection of native inhabitants; but
-the pool in their language was called _lhyn_, and that denominated the
-Roman city _Lindum_, being the hill hanging over this pool. From this
-Carham you have a pleasant view of the west front of the cathedral. The
-shape of the pool is thought very much to resemble a map of England,
-when you survey it from the top of the cathedral. The Romans, pleased
-with this notable eminence, placed their city upon it, which they first
-built in the form of a large square, the southern wall standing upon
-the precipice or edge of the hill, and wanted no other external fence:
-quite round the other three sides they carried a deep trench too, which
-still remains, except on the south-east angle. This city was divided
-into four equal parts, by two cross streets that cut it quite through
-upon the cardinal points: the two southern quarters were taken
-up, one by the castle, the other by the church which Remigius built;
-but, when Alexander the bishop projected a structure of much larger
-dimensions, they carried the sacred inclosure beyond the eastern bounds
-of the city, and so built a new wall farther that way, as it is now,
-with battlements and towers. The north and south Roman gates of this
-part of the city remain; the one intire, the other pulled down about
-fifteen years ago by Mr. Houghton: the northern, called Newport gate,
-is the noblest remnant of this sort in Britain, as far as I know.
-Upon the first sight of it I was struck with admiration, as well of
-its noble simplicity, as that hitherto it should not have been taken
-notice of: it is a vast semicircle of stones of very large dimensions,
-and, by what I could perceive, laid without mortar, connected only by
-their cuniform shape. This magnificent arch is sixteen foot diameter,
-the stones four foot thick at bottom: from the injuries of time, but
-worse of hands, it is somewhat luxated, yet seems to have a joint in
-the middle, not a key-stone: on both sides, towards the upper part,
-are laid horizontal stones of great dimensions, some ten or twelve
-foot long, to take off the side pressure, very judiciously adapted.
-This arch rises from an impost of large mouldings, some part of which,
-especially on the left-hand side, are still discoverable: below on
-both sides was a postern, or foot passage, made of like stones; but
-against that on the left side is a house built, and when I went down
-into the cellar I found a chimney set before it. The ground here in
-the street has been very much raised, and the top of the wall is of a
-later workmanship: it is indeed a most venerable piece of antiquity,
-and what a lover of architecture would be hugely delighted withall.
-They that look upon a gate among the vestiges of the _forum_ of Nerva
-at Rome, will think they see the counterpart of this; but, of the two,
-this has the most grandeur in aspect: the drawing supplies any further
-harangue about it. From this gate eastward, some part of the old Roman
-wall is to be seen by a pasture, made of stone and very strong mortar:
-thereabout too are some arches under ground. The west gate toward the
-gallows was pulled down, not beyond memory: that on the south side,
-which I spoke of, still shows one jamb from between the houses, and
-two or three stones of the same make as the former, just above the
-springing of the arch: if you go up stairs in the adjoining house
-within the city, you may see the postern on the east side, which is big
-enough for a bed to stand in. I doubt not but there is, or was, another
-answerable on the other side; but this street is much contracted from
-its original breadth by the subsequent populousness of the place; and
-the ground here, being upon the edge of the hill, is much worn down,
-as the first is heaped up, from the condition of former ages. But by
-Newport gate before described, is another large and curious remnant of
-Roman workmanship: this is called the Mint wall, and stands in a garden
-in the north-west quarter of the city: it is still sixteen foot high,
-above forty foot long, and turned again with an angle: on the left-hand
-side behind it are houses built and marks of arches. What it was
-originally cannot now be affirmed; the composition of it is thus: upon
-squared stone of the common sort, but a little decayed through age, is
-laid a triple course of Roman brick, which rises one foot in height;
-the bricks seem to be a Roman foot long, and our seven inches broad:
-above this three courses of stone, which rise about a foot more; then
-three layers of brick, as before; upon that twelve courses of stone,
-then brick and stone to the top: the scaffold-holes are left all the
-way: the mortar is very hard, and full of little pebbles.
-
-[Illustration: 28 RELIGIOVS.
-
- Remains _of the Church at_ Kirsted Abbey _Linc. 1716_.
-
- _The Gate house of_ Tupholm Abbey _Linc._
-
- The Ichnography of the Monastery of _Kirsted_ Linc.
-
- _Stukeley delin._]
-
-[Illustration: 88 LINDVM Colonia.
- _4 Sep. 1722._
-
- Josepho Banks Jun. Ar. _Tabulam_ D.D. Wˢ. Stukeley.
-
- _Stukeley del._.]
-
-[Illustration: 54 Worth Gate (_a Roman Work_) Canterbury
- _6. Oct. 1722._]
-
-[Illustration: +Newport Gate+ at +Lincoln+
- Sept. 3. 1722.
- _The Arch of Roman Work_
-
- _Stukᵉley delin. & Amicissimo Conterraneo Mauritio Johnson Ar.
- Interioris Templi J.C. offert._]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LIV]
-
-[Sidenote: 3.]
-
-But this city being happily seated for navigation of the river, and the
-chief thoroughfare to the north, soon increased to that degree, that
-the Romans were obliged to add another to it as big as the former: this
-they did southward upon the declivity of the hill, and so tallied it to
-the other, that the new side-walls answered in a parallel to the old,
-and the most southern lay upon the river. Eastward the ditch without
-is turned into a broad street called the Beast-market, and there below
-Claskgate a great part of the old Roman wall is left, made of stones
-piled sideways, first with one direction, then with another, as was
-a common method with them: one piece of it is now eighty foot long,
-eighteen high; a little bit of it lower down is twelve foot long, as
-much high: between that gate upwards and the old city-wall, by the
-Greestone stairs, is the old ditch to be seen, much talked of, but not
-understood: it is called Weredyke. The people have a notion that the
-river came up here, and that these stairs were a landing-place from
-the water-side, and denominated from I know not what Grecian traders:
-but this is utterly impossible in nature. To the west the ditch and
-foundation of the wall is still left, though many times repaired and
-demolished in the frequent sieges this town has sustained, especially
-in the wars of Maud the empress: at the bottom of it, towards the
-water, is a round tower called Lucy tower, and famous in her history.
-This then was the state of this place in Roman times: the Foss and
-Hermen-street entered the city at Stanbow, or the stoney arch; there
-they parted: the Hermen-street went directly up the hill, and so full
-north through Newport; the Foss, according to its natural direction,
-ascended it obliquely on the eastern side without the ancient city, and
-so proceeded to the sea coast north-east.
-
-[Sidenote: 4.]
-
-But still here were two more great additions to the length of this
-city, and which stretched it out to an enormous bulk; the first
-northwards above the hill: it is called Newport, or the new city,
-500 paces long. This I apprehend to have been done in the reign of
-the Saxon kings: it lies on both sides the Hermen-street, and was
-fenced with a wall and ditch hewn out of the rock: at the two farther
-corners were round towers and a gate, the foundations of which remain:
-there were several churches and religious houses in this place; and
-I suppose it was chiefly inhabited by Jews, who had settled here in
-great numbers, and grown rich by trade: there is a well still called
-Grantham’s well, from a child they ludicrously crucified and threw into
-that well.
-
-[Sidenote: 5.]
-
-[78] After the Norman conquest, when a great part of the first city was
-turned into a castle, I apprehend they added the last intake southward
-in the angle of the Witham, and made a new cut, called Sinsil dike, on
-the south and east side, for its security. The city then being of this
-huge compass, gave occasion for that prophecy, as they call it, and
-fancy to have been fulfilled in the year 1666:
-
- Lincoln _was_, London _is, and_ York _shall be
- The fairest city of the three_.
-
-It is observable that the Normans could not well pronounce _Lincoln_,
-but called it _Nichol_, as we find it in some old writers; and to this
-day a part of _swan_ pool is called _nichol_ pool: in some places of
-Lincolnshire the vulgar pronounce _little_, _nickle_, and some other
-words of that sort. Though this place is much declined since those
-times, yet of late it begins to flourish again very considerably.
-The meaning of _grecian_ stairs I suppose borrowed from the Normans,
-importing only stone steps (_grees_) as they appear at this day, a
-commodious descent from the minster yard. Within this two years, two
-new churches, large and fair, have been built at the charge of the
-inhabitants, and a great many handsome dwelling-houses: trades and
-manufactures too reflourish.
-
-[Illustration: 64·2ᵈ. +Roman Inscriptions+
-
- I II
-
- D ~ M D·M·S
- G ~ VALERIVS ~ G ~ F ~ CADIOI
- GALERIA ~ VICTOR ~ NIAE~FOR
- LVGDVNI~SIG~LEG~II~AVG~ TVNA
-STP~XVII~ANNOR~XI.V.~ CV PIA~V~A XV
-RA~AGENT~AMNIO~PERPITVO~B
- _At Adel_
- _at Caerlion_
-
-
- III IV
-
- MARIE VIBIA
- OFEIS◌̅CE IVCVN
- NERIS IEIO DA
- + VIPIO S C δ I I R AN XXX
- + ER IIGMEIETRIPE HIC SEPVL
- TA EST
- DIS MANIBVS
- NOMINE SACR _at Bathe_
- BRVSCI FILI CVIS
- SENONI ET CARSS
- VNAE CONIVGIS
- EIVS ET QVINTIP
-
-_Upon Sᵗ Marys Steeple Lincoln_
-
-
- V VI
-
- D ~ M ~ C·GAVIO·L·F·STEL·SILVANO
-IVLIAE CASTÆ TRIB·COH·II·VIGILVM·TRIB·
-CONIVGI~VIX~ COH·XIII·VRB·TRIB·COH·XII·
- ANN~XXXIII PRAETOR·DONIS.DONATO·A·
- DIVO·CLAVDIO·BELLO·BRI
-_at Cirencester~GlocestʳSh_ TANNICO
-
- _at Tours_
-
- _Stukeley delin_ _I Harris Sculp_]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XXIX.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XVI.]
-
-[79] In this last part of the city, on both sides the Roman road, were
-many funeral monuments of the old Romans; some of which they now dig
-up, and doubtless much more when they first built upon this ground. I
-saw a pit where they found a stone with an inscription, this summer:
-through age and the workmen’s tools it was defaced, only small remains
-of D. M. & VIX. ANN. XXX. such letters as showed its intent, with
-carvings of palm-trees, and other things: this is behind the house
-where the lord Hussey was beheaded for rebellion in the time of Henry
-VIII. the great bow window through which he came upon the scaffold was
-taken down this year: it stands over-against another stone building,
-of an ancient model, said to be the palace of John of Gaunt, duke of
-Lancaster, who lived here in royal state, and had the privilege of
-coining: his arms are here carved in stone. Upon the steeple of St.
-Mary’s church they have placed in the wall an ancient monumental stone,
-with this imperfect inscription:
-
- DIS MANIBVS
- NOMINI SACRI
- BRVSCI FILI CIVIS
- SENONI ET CARIS
- UNAE CONIVGIS
- EIUS ET QVINTIE.
-
-There is another obscure inscription upon the upper part of the stone,
-but has been added since, and is christian. Upon the church-wall lies
-an old stone by the conduit, which Leland takes notice of, and says is
-Ranulf de Kyme. Immense are the Roman antiquities dug up about this
-famous colony: nor has the perpetual turning up the ground exhausted
-them. The late Dr. Primrose had a great collection: I remember to have
-seen a fine glass urn in his possession, now with Martin Folkes, esq;
-found near Newport gate; also a very large silver seal of one of the
-Quincys earls of Lincoln, now with Nevil King, esq. Wm. Pownal, esq;
-has many coins very well preserved, particularly a Carausus with his
-wife on the same coin, which is a great rarity. I am in hopes he will
-some time favour the learned with an accurate account of this place, as
-it highly deserves. Upon the Roman road eastward are some barrows: many
-urns, and the like, have been dug up about them, especially near the
-stone pits, with earthen aqueducts, and all kinds of antiquities. Mr.
-Pownal showed me a brass _armilla_, found with a corpse which possibly
-was British.[80] Upon the road going to Staynton, is an hospital of St.
-Giles, built by Remigius; and behind it are great cavities in the rock
-under ground, which people fancied to be Roman catacombs, and affirmed
-they had seen earthen and brazen pots, inscriptions and the like,
-with many other strange stories: to search this matter thoroughly,
-provided with torches, we traced them to the utmost corners, but found
-them only quarries. Let us now survey the cathedral. It is far more
-magnificent than any I have yet seen: there are two great gate-houses
-or entrances to it from the west: the lower part of the front, and of
-the two towers, are of Remigius his building, as is easily discoverable
-by the colour of the stones, and by the manner of architecture: but
-Alexander built the additions upon it, the body of the cathedral, the
-choir and St. Mary’s tower, which once had a very lofty spire upon
-it; a prodigious work for a single man, and that not the only one,
-as appears by what we have mentioned of him. St. Hugh the Burgundian
-built the east end, or St. Mary’s chapel, where he had a shrine; and
-the chapter-house cieled with a beautiful stone roof, one pillar in the
-middle. The cloysters and the library are fine: here are many books
-and manuscripts, and an old leaden inscription of William d’Agincourt,
-cousin to Remigius, already printed. Here are many bells, particularly
-one remarkably large, called _Tom of Lincoln_, which takes up a whole
-steeple to itself; probably consecrated to that great champion of the
-church, St. Thomas of Canterbury, the first cathedral mentioned in
-Bede; I suppose an humble building, and contained within the ancient
-walls. Two Catharine-wheel windows, as called, at the ends of the
-larger transepts, are remarkably fine for mullion-work and painted
-glass. Here are great numbers of ancient brasses and monuments:
-one I have engraven from a drawing procured by Browne Willys, esq;
-Tab. 16. the stone only is left near the west door. To set down the
-particularities of the church would require a volume. South of it, upon
-the very brow of the hill, is the bishop’s palace, built by Robert
-de Chesney, who gave two great bells likewise: bishop Bek and other
-successors enlarged it to a magnificence equal with the cathedral: it
-stands just south of the Roman wall; a very expensive work, for the
-foundations of it reach, as it were, below hill: over this hung many
-large bow windows of curious workmanship, looking over the tops of the
-lower city into Nottinghamshire: the kitchen had seven chimneys in it:
-the hall was stately: the gate-house remains intire, with coats of arms
-of the founders. This palace was ruined in the time of the civil wars:
-good part of it might be handsomely rebuilt without an extravagant
-expence.
-
-In Leland’s time one of the stone crosses of queen Eleanor was here
-standing in the market place: it were endless to enumerate the
-religious houses, gates, and old buildings, that croud up every part
-of the streets. Here were originally fifty two churches. I never saw
-such a fund of antique speculations in any town in England: I heard
-continually of coins and urns found all the country over, as at
-Cathorp, Methringham, Nocton, &c. I found this inscription on a stone
-in the stable wall of the Rein-deer inn.
-
-+*RANDOLF: DE: BORTON: GYT: ICY: DEUI: DE: SA: ALME: AYT: MERCY:
-AMEN.*
-
-This castle of William the Conqueror’s is a large place, and
-exceedingly strong with walls, ditches, keep, and towers: over against
-it westward is an intrenchment made by king Stephen.
-
-Through the whole length of Lincolnshire, from north to south, in
-a strait line runs a ledge of hills, that is, from Stanford to
-Winteringham: the Romans, observing this, carried their road upon
-it, and left the original stem of Fokingham. This high ground is
-similar all along, having a steep descent westward, overlooking
-Nottinghamshire, and is a rock of rag-stone quite through; the
-stone is white, and rises in _strata_, thicker as deeper: the surface
-is heathy. The river Witham, which rises on the west of this ridge,
-must have run into the Humber, had not Nature, by her propensity of
-drawing it eastward, as her declivities generally run, broke it off in
-the middle by that great valley under Lincoln, and made a passage for
-it into the estuary. Hence it is that the stone upon this western cliff
-is full of sea-shells; for, when the great and universal deluge had
-carried those inhabitants of the ocean into the mediterranean parts, by
-the weight of their shells they were unapt to retire again along with
-the waters, so were intercepted against this cliff, and received into
-the nascent stone.[81] A remarkable antediluvian curiosity I procured
-for the repository of the Royal Society, from these parts; being the
-real skeleton of a crocodile, or some such animal, inclosed in a broad
-flat stone. But now it is time to proceed.
-
-[Illustration: 29 _The Shrine of Sᵗ._ Hugh _the Burgundian_ Bishop _of_
- Lincoln. In the South Isle of the Cathedral there behind the Choir._
-
- Reverendo Doctissimoqᵤₑ Laurentio Echard _dicata_.
-
- _Stukeley delin._ _F. Kirkall sculp._]
-
-[Illustration: 16 Sub marmore isto tenet hic tumulus ossa venerabilis
- in Christo patris et dñi Witti Smith quond̃̃̃̃̃̃̃̃̃̃m̃̃̃̃̃̃̃̃̃̃̃̃̃ Eoventrens et Lichfeldens
- ac deinde Lincolnien presulis qui obüt secundo die mentis Januarii
- anno dñi millesimo quingentessimo trio decimo cñj̃ aĩe ppicietur qĩ
- pius et misicors in die tribulat peccata remittit
-
- Cestrensis presul post Lincolniensis Hmato Cleriuam multos cis
- mare transqᵤₑ aluit. Qui utriusqq fuit prefectus Principis aulæ
- Fundavitqᵤₑ duas perpetuando Scholas. aulasqᵤₑ sumptu hujus renovata
- est Cnea Ehrste hic situs est Anime parce benigne sue.]
-
-[Illustration: 87 AGELOCVM. _Sep. 1722._
-
- Erudito Willo Ella A. M. vieario _de_ Rampton vicinam _Stationem.
- d.d. Wˢ. Stukeley_]
-
-The Hermen-street going northward from Lincoln is scarce diminished,
-because its materials are hard stone, and the heath on both sides
-favours it: three miles off, near a watering-place, a branch divides
-from it with an obtuse angle to the left, which goes towards Yorkshire.
-We suppose the Romans at first had an erroneous idea of the island of
-Britain, and thought its northern parts in a more easterly longitude
-than by experience they found; and thus in Ptolemy’s maps the length
-of Scotland is represented running out enormously that way: but when
-Agricola, in his conquests northward, had discovered that mistake,
-and that the passage over the Humber was very incommodious for the
-march of soldiers, he struck out this new road, as another branch of
-the Hermen-street, by way of Doncaster, from thence observing its
-natural direction northward. When we turn ourselves here, and look
-back to Lincoln, we see the road butts upon the western spires of the
-cathedral: and when from thence you survey the road, it is an agreeable
-prospect; your eye being in the middle line of its whole length to the
-horizon. I had a mind to pursue this branch through Lincolnshire as
-far as the first station, _Agelocum_: this ridge is likely to be of
-an eternal duration, as wholly out of all roads: it proceeds directly
-over the heath, then descends the cliff through the rich country at
-bottom, between two hedge-rows, by the name of Tilbridge lane. When you
-view it on the brink of the hill, it is as a visto or avenue running
-through a wood or garden very strait, and pleasanter in prospect than
-when you come to travel it; wanting a Roman legion to repair it. You
-pass through Stretton and Gate-Burton, so called from the road, and by
-a ferry cross over the Trent, which lands you at
-
-[Sidenote: +Agelocum.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LXXXVII.]
-
-Littleborough, _Agelocum_, or, as by later times corrupted, with a
-_sibilus_, into _Segelocum_.[82] This is a small village three miles
-above Ganesborough, just upon the edge of the water, and in an angle.
-_Agel auk_, _frons aquæ_, is a pertinent etymology: it seems only to
-have been environed with a ditch, and of a square form, and the water
-ran quite round it; for to the west, where White’s bridge is, a watery
-valley hems it in: so that it was a place sufficiently strong. The
-church stands upon the highest ground. The Trent has washed away part
-of the eastern side of the town. Foundations and pavements are visible
-in the bank. Mr. Roger Gale, passing by, once found an urn there, with
-a coin of Domitian’s: great numbers of coins have been taken up in
-ploughing and digging: they called them swine-pennies, because those
-creatures sometimes root them up, and the inhabitants take little
-care to save them. I saw a few there: the reverend Mr. Ella, vicar of
-Rampton hard by, has collected several, and some valuable, such as the
-following, of which he sent me an account.
-
-A consecration piece of Vespasian. Cos. IIII.
-
-IMP CAES NERVAE TRAIANO AVG GER DAC PMTRP COSVPP ℞ SPQR OPTIMO
-PRINCIPI. The mole at Ancona.
-
-IMP CÆS NER TRAIANO OPTIMO AVG GER DAC ℞ SENATVS POPVLVSQ ROMANVS.
-Fortune sitting with a _cornucopia_ in one hand, a rudder in the other,
-FORT RED SC.
-
-IMP CAES. &c. as the second. ℞ SPQR. a genius sitting on trophies, with
-a spear in the left hand, a _victoriola_ in its right.
-
-IMP CAESAR TRAIANVS HADRIANVS ℞ PONT. MAX. TRP. Britannia sitting with
-a shield, a spear in her left hand, a laurel in her right, the right
-foot upon a rock BRITANNIA SC.
-
-CONSTANTINVS AVG. ℞ SOLI INVICTO COMITI. Another, ℞ ALEMANNIA DEVICTA.
-
-Several of those struck about Constantius’s time with a galeate head
-on one side, and URBS ROMA ℞ a wolf suckling Romulus and Remus:
-others, CONSTANTINOPOLIS: many more, of Aurelius, Faustina, Gallienus,
-Tetricus, Victorinus, Carausius, Constantine, Constantius, Crispus,
-Allectus, and the lower Empire. About forty years ago, when the
-inclosures between the town and bridge were ploughed up, abundance of
-these coins were found, many intaglias of agate, cornelian, the finest
-coral-coloured urns and patera’s, some wrought in _basso relievo_,
-the workman’s name generally impressed on the inside of the bottom:
-a _discus_ with an emperor’s head embossed. In 1718, they dug up two
-altars, handsomely moulded, which are set as piers in a wall on the
-side of the steps that lead from the water-side to the inn: on one is
-the remnant of an inscription, LIS ARAM DD. these are of the course
-grit-stone. Many very little coins are found here, like flatted pease;
-they call them mites. Mr. Hardy has a large urn with the face of a
-woman on the out-side. In this same field near White’s bridge are great
-foundations of building: coins are often found too at the lowest edge
-of the water, when the tide is gone off, and in dry seasons. On the
-east side of the river has been a camp. Returning by Tilbridge lane,
-upon the top of the heath is a spring, which they say flows and abates
-with the tide in the Trent, though five miles off: the like is reported
-of divers others hereabouts.
-
-From the place where the roads branch out, before spoken of, I
-proceeded on the Hermen-street, northward, to Spittle on the street.
-There are milliary stones set upon the road all the way: it is very
-delightful riding, being wholly champaign, or heath. Of these stones I
-believe some are Roman, others later crosses, perhaps to supply their
-place: some _tumuli_ scattered here and there. This place no doubt was
-a mansion, because a little beck runs through it, arising hard by:
-and it is ten miles from Lincoln; a convenient distance. I took the
-bearing of the road just north and south. Here is an hospital, said to
-be founded 1308, and great foundations all around, some of which are
-probably Roman. At present the village consists of two farm-houses, a
-chapel, an inn, and a sessions-house: three or four _tumuli_ near the
-town. Upon the chapel is a silly Latin inscription:
-
- _fui anno domini_ 1398 }
- _non fui_ 1594 } _dom. dei & pauperum_
- _sum_ 1616 }
- _Qui hanc Deus hunc destruet._
-
-[Illustration: 16·2ᵈ. _The Scite of the Roman town at_ Wintringham.
- _24. Iuly 1724._ +Abontrvs.+
-
- _Stukeley delin._]
-
-Upon the sessions-house,
-
- _Hæc domus odit, amat, punit, conservat, honorat,
- Equitiam, pacem, crimina, jura, bonos._ 1620.
-
-Underneath, a coat palè of six, on a bend three annulets, with the
-arms of Ulster: over the door, _Fiat justitia_ 1619. All this whole
-country is a quarry just beneath the surface. Beyond Spittle woodland
-begins: by Broughton, a vein of deep sand well planted with coneys. At
-all these towns upon the Roman road, coins and antiquities are found;
-Hibberstow, Gainsthorp, Broughton, Roxby, &c. at Sandton has been a
-Roman pottery: between Scalby and Manton is a Roman camp: in Appleby
-is a place called Julian’s Bower: at Kirton, John of Gaunt had a seat:
-twenty-nine towns round about held of him in socage. I take Broughton
-to be another station, because of its name, and that a brook runs
-through it; so that the interval between Lincoln and Wintringham is
-conveniently divided into three parts, ten miles each, by Spittle and
-Broughton, the whole being thirty Roman miles. Thornholm, a mitred
-priory: there is but another in England, Spalding. Risby and Gokewell,
-two nunneries; some small remains of both. To the left is Normanby,
-where the late duke of Buckingham was born, and whence his title.
-
-[Sidenote: +Wintringham+ Ro. _town_.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. [i XVI]. 2d Vol.]
-
-We kept the road all the way, though sometimes it passes over little
-bogs, and at last about Winterton is inclosed: it terminates in some
-arable, where it is well nigh lost a mile south of Wintringham.
-Upon a rising ground at the end of the Roman road, a little to the
-right, and half a mile east of the present Wintringham, stood the
-old Roman town, of which they have a perfect knowledge, and ploughed
-up great foundations within memory: it is now a common, skirted by
-the marshes upon the Humber: the soil hereabouts is clay. This site
-of Old Wintringham, as called, was almost inclosed with water in its
-first condition, having only a slip of land towards the Roman road
-as an entrance: the valley westward between it and the town is now
-called the Old Haven, where three elm-trees stand: the east is bounded
-by the mouth of the Ankham, which I suppose is _ang_ in British,
-broad, _avon_, river, from its broad marshes. The city was ploughed
-up six years ago, and great numbers of antiquities found, now lost;
-great pavements, chimney-stones, &c. often breaking their ploughs: in
-several places they found streets made of sea-sand and gravel. It is
-a _peninsula_ between the Humber and Ankham, and had most opportunely
-a fine spring on the east side, which no doubt was embraced by the
-Romans: it is likewise a great rarity in nature, arising so near the
-sea in a clayey marsh: there is stone-work left round it, and an iron
-ladle to drink at, which is done frequently by travellers, as with a
-religious necessity. Several intakes have been made beyond this city in
-memory of man, which drives the Humber farther off, and increases the
-marsh: it is half a mile between it and old town. The old haven-mouth
-is called Flashmire. This place is over-against Brough, the Roman
-town on the Yorkshire shore; but it is rather more eastward: so that
-with the tide coming in they ferried over very commodiously thither,
-and even now they are forced to take the tide. _Buck-bean trefoil_
-grows upon all the bogs hereabouts. The bearing of the end of the
-Roman way is precisely north and south, as at Lincoln; so that it is
-a true meridian line from the west end of the cathedral. The present
-Wintringham is a dirty poor place, but still a corporation; and the
-mayor is chosen only out of one street, next the old town, where was a
-chapel: the bell of it now hangs in a wooden frame by the pillory, and
-makes a most ridiculous appearance. Here is still a ferry from a small
-creek kept open by some freshes; it was ill judged of travellers to
-desert the old Roman way and ferry, and turn the road to Barton, (where
-the Humber is much broader and very dangerous) for no other reason but
-because it is somewhat nearer and over-against Hull: but the saving
-three miles riding does not compensate for the time or hazard of so
-uncouth a passage. I am persuaded the old name of this station was
-_Abontrus_, the same as the name of the river, whence they have formed
-the mimic Wintringham. Here is a vast jaw-bone or rib of a whale, that
-has lain time out of mind, like that at St. James’s. Wintringham church
-stands on the end of the Lincolnshire _Alpes_. Well may the Humber take
-its name from the noise it makes: my landlord, who is a sailor, says
-in a high wind it is incredibly great and terrible, like the crash and
-dashing together of ships. The Roman way beyond the Humber at Brough is
-continued in Yorkshire; but of its progress that way I can say nothing
-at present, this being the northern boundary of my expeditions.
-
-[Sidenote: +Aquis.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XVII. 2d Vol.]
-
-From the termination of the Hermen-street, just by the knoll of old
-Wintringham, and the hedge on the side of a common, a lesser vicinal
-branch of a Roman road goes directly west to Aukborough, passing over
-Whitton brook. All the ground hereabouts terminates at the Humber
-in longitudinal ridges going north and south, and all steep like a
-cliff to the west, plain and level eastward. Aukborough I visited,
-because I suspected it the _Aquis_ of the Romans, in Ravennas, and I
-was not deceived; for I presently descried the Roman _castrum_.[83]
-There are two little _tumuli_ upon the end of the road entering the
-town. The Roman castle is square, three hundred foot each side, the
-entrance north: the west side is objected to the steep cliff hanging
-over the Trent, which here falls into the Humber; for this castle is
-very conveniently placed in the north-west angle of Lincolnshire, as a
-watch-tower over all Nottinghamshire and Yorkshire, which it surveys.
-Hence you see the Ouse coming from York, and downward the Humber mouth,
-and all over the isle of Axholm. Much salt-marsh is gained from all
-these rivers, though now and then they reclaim and alter their course.
-Then they discover the subterraneous trees lodged here at the Deluge
-in great abundance, along the banks of all the three rivers: the wood
-is hard and black, and sinks like a stone. Here are likewise other
-plentiful reliques of the Deluge in the stones, viz. sea-shells of
-all sorts, where a _virtuoso_ might furnish his cabinet: sometimes a
-stone is full of one sort of shell, sometimes of another; sometimes,
-of little globules like the spawn of fishes: I viewed them with great
-pleasure. I am told the camp is now called Countess Close, and they say
-a countess of Warwick lived there; perhaps owned the estate;[84] but
-there are no marks of building, nor I believe ever were. The _vallum_
-and ditch are very perfect: before the north entrance is a square plot
-called the Green, where I suppose the Roman soldiers lay _pro castris_:
-in it is a round work, formed into a labyrinth, which they call
-Julian’s Bower. The church is of good stone, has a square tower, but
-the choir ruinous, excluded by a wooden partition: between it and the
-way to the marshes, a good spring rising out of the cliff. I dare say
-no antiquary ever visited this place since the Romans left it; for the
-people were perfectly ignorant of any matters we could inquire about;
-and as to finding coins, &c. they would make us no other answer than
-laughing at us: but I heard since, from other good hands, that they
-have been found here in great numbers.
-
-[Illustration: 17·2ᵈ. _Prospect of Aukborough_ Aquis _of the Romans 24.
- July 1724._
-
- _Stukeley delin:_ _E. Kirkall sculp:_]
-
-[Sidenote: +Julian’s Bower.+]
-
-Because I have frequently found these places called _Julian’s Bower_,
-both at Roman towns and others, but especially very common in
-Lincolnshire, I considered what should be the meaning of them, and
-shall here give my thoughts about it. They are generally upon open
-green places, by the side of roads or rivers, upon meadows and the like
-near a town: the name often remains, though the place be altered and
-cultivated; and the lovers of antiquity, especially of the inferior
-class, always speak of them with great pleasure, and as if there were
-something extraordinary in the thing, though they cannot tell what:
-very often they are called _Troy town_. What generally appears at
-present is no more than a circular work, made of banks of earth, in
-the fashion of a maze or labyrinth; and the boys to this day divert
-themselves with running in it one after another, which leads them by
-many windings quite through and back again.
-
-Upon a little reflection I concluded that this is the ancient Roman
-game; and it is admirable that both name and thing should have
-continued through such a diversity of people; though now it is well
-nigh perished, since the last age has discouraged the innocent and
-useful sports of the common people, by an injudicious and unnecessary
-zeal for religion, which has drove them into worse methods of
-amusement. I imagine too this was a practice of the ancient Britons,
-many of which were of Phrygian extract, coming from the borders of
-Thrace; therefore derived it from the same fountain as the Romans:
-this was upon their _maii campi_; but I shall not speak of them here:
-and the Turks, I apprehend, learnt it hence; for it is their diversion
-too. As to the name _bower_, it signifies not an arbor, or pleasant
-shady retirement, in this place; but _borough_, or any work made with
-ramparts of earth, as camps and the like: and it is my thoughts,
-many works, which have been taken for camps, were only made for this
-purpose; whereof two I met with in this journey, that at Ashwel, and
-Maiden Bower near Dunstable. The name of _Julian_ undoubtedly refers
-to _Julus_ the son of Æneas, who first brought it into Italy, as is
-admirably described by Virgil in his V. Æneid. and kept up by the
-Romans with great pomp and annual festivity: Augustus was particularly
-fond of it, and took it as a compliment to his family. That they call
-these places _Troy town_, proves the same. Hear the poet:
-
- _Hunc morem hos cursus atque hæc certamina primus
- Ascanius, longam muris cum cingeret Albam
- Rettulit, & priscos docuit celebrare Latinos.
- Quo puer ipse modo, secum quo Troia pubes.
- Albani docuere suos, hinc maxima porro
- Accepit Roma & patrium servavit honorem:
- Trojaque nunc pueri Trojanum dicitur agmen._
-
- This game long since, this martial exercise
- Ascanius brought, when Alba’s walls he rear’d.
- Whence the old Latins celebrate the same,
- As he a lad, with him the Trojan youth.
- The Albans taught it theirs: from them great Rome
- Learnt it, and to their country’s honour call
- The game _Troy town_, the boys the _Trojan band_.
-
-I conceive this game was of two sorts; that performed on foot; that
-on horse-back, or in chariots: the intent of both was to exercise the
-youth in warlike activity, for it was a sort of mock fight: that
-on foot was the _Pyrrhic_ dance. Suetonius says, _lusus ipse quem
-vulgo Pyrrhicum appellant Troja vocatur_. If we carry it up to its
-first original, we must affirm it was invented by the _Corybantes_,
-_Idei dactyli_, _Curetes_, whose institution, when confirmed among
-the Romans, was continued by the priests called _Salii_, dancing in
-armour, and clashing their weapons together with some sort of concert.
-Likewise the real soldiers had the same festival, which they called
-_armilustrium_, celebrated on the 19. Octob. of which Varro gives us
-an account _de lingua Lat._ Suetonius mentions it in _Tiberio_, c. 72.
-This, whether performed on foot or horse-back, by children, priests
-or soldiers, was manifestly the same thing: their gestures, turnings,
-returnings, knots and figures, their assaults, retreat, and the like,
-were aptly represented by mazes and labyrinths; which very comparison
-Virgil uses.
-
- _Ut quondam Cretâ fertur labyrinthus in altâ,
- Parjetibus textum cæcis iter, ancipitemque
- Mille viis habuisse dolum, qua signa sequendi
- Falleret indeprensus & irremeabilis error._
-
- Such was in Crete the labyrinth of yore,
- In crooked tracks immur’d, a thousand ways
- Doubtful and dark: whence the return obscure,
- Inextricable, in endless mazes lost.
-
-It is likely these works of ours, made in the turf, were cast up, in
-order to teach the children the method of it. That on foot is elegantly
-described by Claudian _de_ VI. _consul. Honorii_, v. 622.
-
- _Armatos hic sæpe choros, certaque vagandi
- Textas lege fugas, inconfusosque recursus,
- Et pulchras errorum artes, jucundaque Martis
- Cernimus: insonuit cum verbere signa magister.
- Mutatosque edunt pariter tot pectora motus,
- In latus allisis clypeis, aut rursus in altum
- Vibratis. grave parma sonat mucronis acuti
- Murmure, & umbonum pulsu modulante resultans
- Ferreus alterno concentus clauditur ense._
-
- Here have I seen the armed rings revolve
- In artful flights, in order then advance,
- Attack, retire in all the forms of war,
- Their eye still on the signal of the chief;
- Then face about, ringing their brazen shields
- Against their corslets, or uplifted high
- Threaten the ecchoing skies; whilst steely blades
- Harsh murmur, and the clanging targets sound
- Alternate struck, the martial concert close.
-
-The equestrian games of this denomination required more room and
-_apparatus_ for spectators: therefore probably they fenced in a larger
-space of ground, of a circular or oval form, with a _vallum_, to keep
-the spectators at proper distance, and upon which they might more
-commodiously behold the sport. This I suppose was provided for by those
-bowers or burroughs mentioned, where there was no ditch behind; for
-that would be dangerous, if the people crouding one another, as is
-natural on those occasions, should thrust the outermost from such an
-elevation: so that they were a larger sort of amphitheatres, or circs:
-and this seems expressly intimated by the great Mantuan in those verses,
-
- _Munera principio ante oculos circoque locantur
- In medio——
- Et tuba commissos medio canit aggere ludos._
-
-These games on horseback he thus describes:
-
- _Olli discurrere pares, atque agmina terni
- Diductis solvere choris, rursusque vocati
- Convertere vias, infestaque tela tulere.
- Inde alios ineunt cursus aliosque recursus
- Adversis spatiis, alternosque orbibus orbes
- Impediunt, pugnæque cient simulachra sub armis.
- Et nunc terga fugâ nudant; nunc spicula vertunt
- Infensi, factâ pariter nunc pace feruntur._
-
- They ride by pairs: the martial cavalcade
- Triple battalions form, which open first
- With adverse front, and show of dreadful fight.
- Then new careers they take, wheeling about
- In various circles and self-ending orbs,
- In all the mazy arts and forms of war;
- Now turn their backs, and now afresh attack:
- At length in peaceful order all march off.
-
-It seems that our tournaments, so much in fashion till queen
-Elizabeth’s time, are remainders of these warlike diversions; and the
-triple order, by which they were conducted, may possibly be imitated in
-some degree by the common figure in dancing, called the _hedge_, or the
-_hay_; both which I suppose are derived from the Saxon _hæg_, perhaps
-from the Latin _agger_.
-
-We passed by the spring of old Wintringham and the Marsh at the mouth
-of the Ankham, which is a vast tract of land left by the sea; and came
-to Feriby sluice, a stately bridge of three arches, with sluices for
-voidance of the water into the sea, but now broken down and lying in
-dismal ruins by the negligence of the undertakers: whence travellers
-are obliged to pass the river in a paltry short boat, commanded by a
-little old deaf fellow with a long beard: into this boat you descend,
-by the steep of the river, through a deep mirey clay, full of stones
-and stakes; nor is the ascent on the other side any better, both
-dangerous and difficult. This, with the hideous ruins of the bridge,
-like the picture of hell gates in Milton, and the terrible roar of the
-water passing through it, fitly represented Virgil’s description of
-Charon’s ferry: nor would a poet wish for a better scene to heighten
-his fancy, were he to paint out the horrors of the confines of hell.
-
- _Hinc via Tartarei quæ fert Acherontis ad undas.
- Turbidus hic cœno vastaque voragine gurges
- Æstuat, atque omnem Cocyto eructat arenam.
- Portitor has horrendus aquas & flumina servat
- Terribili squallore Charon, cui plurima mento
- Canicies inculta jacet_—— Æn. vi.
-
- Hence the way leads to Fereby forlorn,
- Where Ankham’s oozy flood with hideous roar
- Tears up the sands and sluices ruin’d vaults.
- A squalid Charon the dread ferry plies
- In leaky scull, whose furrow’d cheeks lie deep
- With hoary beard insconc’d——
-
-When we had mounted the precipice again from the water, and paid our
-naul to the inexorable ferryman, we had several clayey lakes to ride
-over, unpassable in winter. Two roads[85] lead you to the town, a sorry
-ragged place, where upon the stocks is wrote, _Fear God, honour the
-King_. The church is set respecting no points of the compass, and just
-under the side of a precipice, so that you may almost leap from it
-upon the steeple: when we climbed the hill, it was a long while before
-we could find the way to Barton; and scarce could the people direct
-us to it, though but two miles off: at length, after wandering some
-time backward and forward, we hit upon the road, and, as men escaped
-the Stygian pool, with pleasure surveyed Barton, riding all the way
-through corn-fields, overlooking the Humber and Hull. Barton from hence
-makes a pretty prospect, having two churches, several mills, and the
-houses pleasantly intermixed with trees. This hill is wholly chalk, and
-answered on the opposite shore by another of the same nature. This is
-at present the passage across the Humber to Yorkshire, and we pleased
-ourselves at this time only with the distant view of it, and the
-neighbouring Hull: we could see the flag upon the castle.
-
-[Sidenote: +Barrow.+ British _temple_.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XVIII. 2d Vol.]
-
-At Barrow we were surprised with a castle, as the inhabitants call it,
-upon the salt marsh: upon view of the works I wondered not that they
-say it was made by Humber when he invaded Britain, in the time of the
-Trojan Brutus; for it is wholly dissonant from any thing I had seen
-before: but after sufficient _examen_ I found it to be a temple of the
-old Britons, therefore to be referred to another occasion. A little
-eastward hence we visited Thornton college, a great abbey founded by
-William le Gros earl of Albemarle 1139, the gate-house is very perfect;
-a vast tower, or castle, wherein all methods of Gothic architecture for
-offence and defence are employed: there is a great ditch before it,
-across which a bridge with walls on each hand, and arches that support
-a broad battlement to defend the access: before it two low round
-towers: this stands oblique to the building, like the bridge at the
-tower-gate, the better to keep off assailants by arrows shot through
-many narrow loop-holes: there was a portcullis at the great gate, and
-behind it another gate of oak: there are no windows in front: over it
-are three old clumsy statues in as ordinary niches: a woman seeming a
-queen, or the virgin Mary: to the right, a man with a lamb; I suppose,
-St. John baptist: to the left, a bishop or abbot with a crosier: the
-lamb is introduced in several other places: in the battlements above
-the gate are the figures of men cut in stone, as looking down: on both
-sides this tower goes a strong wall embattled, supported by internal
-arches, with towers at proper distances: along the ditch within the
-gate are spacious rooms and stair-cases of good stone and rib-work
-arches. Upon taking down an old wall there, they found a man with a
-candlestick, table and book, who was supposed to have been immured.
-When you enter the spacious court, a walk of trees conducts you to the
-ruins of the church: part of the south-east corner is left between the
-choir and transept, and behind that some of the chapter-house, which
-was octagonal: the whole plan of the church is easily discoverable,
-and round about it the foundations of a quadrangle, and lodgings, to
-the south of which now stands a dwelling-house, which I suppose was
-the abbot’s lodge: here are great moats and fish-ponds, subterraneous
-vaults and passages; the whole monastery being encompassed by a deep
-ditch and high rampart, to secure the religious from robbers, because
-near the sea. A mile east of Thornton are the ruins of another great
-castle, called Kelingholme. In Goswel parish northward is Burham,
-a chapel now become a farm-house, which belonged to the monastery: in
-the same parish, near the Humber, is Vere court, which belonged to the
-ancient family of that name. Good land hereabouts, well wooded: they
-find Roman coins all about. Two miles west of Thornton is a great Roman
-camp, called Yarborough, which surveys the whole hundred denominated
-from it, and all the sea-coast. Vast quantities of Roman coins have
-been found here: Mr. Howson, of Kenington hard by, has pecks of them,
-many of Licinius.[86]
-
-[Illustration: 18·2ᵈ. _Inside view of Thornton College gate house July
- 26 1724_
-
- _Stukeley del._ _I Harris Scul._]
-
-[Illustration: 19·2ᵈ. _Prospect of_ Caster Lincolnshʳ: July 26 1724. A
- Roman Town._
-
- _Stukeley del:_ A. _a piece of the Roman wall of the castle_. B. _the
- Spring_. C. _another piece of the Roman wall_. _E. Kirkall sculp:_]
-
-[Sidenote: +Yarborough.+ Ro. _town_.]
-
-Hence we journeyed to Caster, upon another ridge of the downs, running
-north and south, slaunting off eastward to the sea, and steep all the
-way westward, reaching from the Humber to the Witham below Lincoln: a
-vein of sand again, and alike stocked with rabbets, answering to that
-on the other side the Ankham at Sandton, but a little more southward.
-From the hill just above Caster you have an admirable prospect both
-east and west; this way to the mouth of the Humber, the Spurnhead
-promontory, the Sunk island, and the whole country of Holderness in
-Yorkshire; that way, all the sea-coast of Lincoln stretched out in a
-long bow, jutting into the sea, full of creeks and harbours: south and
-west the whole county of Lincoln lies under the eye; but the height of
-Lincoln minster particularly pleases, which is here seen by the edge of
-the cliff south of Caster, and presents a very romantic landscape.
-
-[Sidenote: +Caster.+ Ro. _town_.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XIX. 2d Vol.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XX. 2d Vol.]
-
-The town of Caster is half way down this western steep; and in nothing
-more, that I have seen, did the Romans show their fine genius for
-choice of a station, than this: there is a narrow promontory juts
-forward to the west, being a rock full of springs, level at top;
-and on this did they build their town. One may easily guess at the
-original Roman scheme upon which it was founded, and now in the main
-preserved: this whole town takes in three squares of full 300 feet
-each, two of which are allotted to the castle, the third is an _area_
-lying to the east before it, between it and the hill, which is still
-the market-place: the streets are all set upon these squares, and at
-right angles: at each end are two outlets, going obliquely at the
-corners to the country round about, two above, two descending the hill
-thus distributed: the north-east to the Humber mouth, south-east to
-Louth, north-west to Wintringham, south-west to Lincoln. What is the
-meaning of this place being called _Thongcaster_,[87] among some others
-in England, I know not; one in Kent: but it gave occasion to the same
-fanciful report of its original, as queen Dido’s founding Carthage
-upon as much ground as she could incompass with an ox’s hide cut into
-_thongs_; and a person in the town told me there was an history of
-the building Caster in _Virgil_, and offered to show it me. I should
-not have thought this worth mentioning, had not Mr. Camden spoke of
-it, as if he believed it to be true: but there can be no doubt that
-this castle was built long before Hengist’s time; for I saw enough
-of the old Roman wall to evince its founders: one great piece stands
-on the verge of the church-yard; another by a house: there are more
-behind the school-house in the pastures, and I have met with many
-men that have dug at its foundations in several other places: it is
-built of white rag-stone laid sometimes sideways, sometimes flat, in
-mortar exceedingly hard, full of pebbles and sand; nor is it mixed to
-any fineness: so that I conjecture it was the method of the Romans
-to pour the mortar on liquid, as soon as the lime was slaked: thus
-the heat and moisture, struggling together, created a most strict
-union or attraction between the lime and stone, the motion favouring
-their approximation; and the lime, no doubt, being made of the same
-stone, promoted a more intimate union between the cement and the hard
-materials by similitude of parts. I suppose this narrow tongue of land
-was thus encompassed with a wall quite to the market-place, objecting
-only its end to the plain before the hill, the rest standing upon the
-stoney precipice. From under the castle-walls almost quite round rise
-many quick springs; but Syfer spring is most famous, having now four
-fluxes of water from between the joints of great stones laid flat like
-a wall; and joined together with lead, probably first by the Romans,
-for it is under their wall; shaded over with trees very pleasantly:
-this is the morning and evening rendezvous of the servant-maids, where
-consequently intelligence is given of all domestic news: they say,
-within memory it ran much quicker, so that the water projected three
-or four foot from the wall; others say, that originally it ran in one
-stream like the sheet of a cascade. Syfer spring, no doubt, is the
-Saxon _syfer_, pure, clean, as the stream here deserves to be called.
-There is a place by the fold, south-west of the church, still called
-Castle-hill, where many bodies have been dug up. I am inclinable to
-think the meaning of _Thong-castle_ to be fetched from _Thane Degen_,
-Saxonicè, _miles_, _præfectus_, analogous to the Latin _comes_.[88]
-Here it is likely our Saxon ancestors placed a garrison of troops to
-secure this country, as they conquered from the Roman Britons. In the
-church is a monumental _effigies_, in stone, of a knight of the name
-of Hundon; another, of a lady; another, of a knight of St. John of
-Jerusalem, cross-legged.
-
-In Snarford church some fine monuments, in alabaster, of the family of
-St. Paul’s. Return we now to Lindum.
-
- _Sol medium cœli conscenderat igneus orbem
- Cum muros arcemque procul & rara domorum
- Tecta vides, modo quæ Romana potentia cœlo
- Æquavit_—— +Virg.+ Æ. viii.
-
-A mile north upon the Foss is a _tumulus_ of hard stone, called the
-Castle.
-
-From hence I determined to proceed to London all the way on the Roman
-road, which perhaps has not been so scrupulously travelled upon for
-this thousand years: the intent, which I executed, was to perform the
-whole sixth journey in Antoninus his Itinerary; of which I shall give
-as complete an account as can be expected, considering how totally most
-of the stations here are erased, and that I was resolved so far to
-imitate an ancient traveller, as to dine and lie at a Roman town all
-the way if possible, and sometimes in danger of faring as meanly as a
-Roman soldier: nor could I always readily say,
-
- _Longum iter hic nobis minuit mutatio crebra,
- Mansio sub noctem claudit ubique diem._
-
-Add to this, that the whole was new to me; that I had almost every
-place to find out; that I was alone, and had no other guide than what
-Mr. Gale has pointed out to us, who is the first that hit upon the true
-notion of this road: and I doubt not but the reader’s candour will
-overlook the errors or imperfections of this simple narration, of what
-I could observe myself, and fish out from the uncouth relations of
-the country people, who, for one half of the way, had never heard of
-enquiries of this sort since any memory, and were too apt to be morose
-upon that occasion, thinking I had some design upon their farms in my
-inquisitiveness.
-
-[Illustration: 20·2ᵈ. Syfer Spring _at Caster in Lincolnshʳ. July 26. 1724. (a
- Roman Work.)_
-
- _Stukeley delin._ _E. Kirkall fe._]
-
-[Illustration: 21·2ᵈ. _Prospect of_ Crocolana _from Potter hill.
- Sept. 7. 1722._
-
- A. _Brough the Roman City._ B. _Newark._ C. _the cliff by the Trent._
- D. _Potter hill._
-
- _Stukeley delin._ _E. Kirkall sculp._]
-
-[Sidenote: _Foss_ road.]
-
-This journey proceeds from Lincoln upon the great Foss road, as it
-tends to the Bath quite through Nottinghamshire and Leicestershire (but
-most terribly defaced) till it meets with and crosses (having gone
-sixty miles) the great Watling-street coming from Chester, and going
-to Dover, at High-cross in Warwickshire: hence to London, about ninety
-miles more, I went upon this Watling-street, which completes that
-journey of the Itinerary.
-
-[Sidenote: +Crocolana.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XXI. 2d Vol.]
-
-I apprehend the _Foss_ is the name transmitted through the British,
-which comes from _digging_, as being an artificial road; whence they
-are often called _dikes_, a word of contrary significations, as the
-Latin _altus_.[89] Descending southwards, where the Foss parts with the
-Hermen-street below Lincoln, by the abbey without the most southern
-gate, and passing over the river Witham by Bracebridge, before it comes
-to Lincoln; I soon perceived myself upon the Foss road, by its strait
-ridge carried over the barren moory ground, by a mill near Stickham.
-Hard by lies a stone cross of good height, of one piece, vulgarly
-called Robin Hood’s Whetstone upon the Foss, and is called sometimes
-the three-mile stone. The elevation of the road is still preserved,
-the common road going round about: it is much overgrown with goss,
-and the moor but thinly so; its strait length easily distinguishable
-for that reason: it butts a good deal to the east of Lincoln. Between
-Bracebridge and its union with the Hermen way, some pavement is left
-of flag-stone set edgewise: the road beyond the moor goes through
-the inclosures of Hikeham and Thorp, then enters Morton lane, very
-pleasantly set on both sides with woods full of game.[90] And so
-journeying to the space of about twelve Roman miles, I found Collingham
-on my right hand: there is a high barrow or _tumulus_ called Potters
-hill, where they say was a Roman pottery: it stands upon an eminence
-commanding a prospect both ways upon the road. Half a mile farther is
-Brough, the undoubted _Crocolana_ of the Romans: it is three miles
-North of Newark. Great plenty of wild Saffron grows hereabouts; whence
-I once thought the name came, signifying the saffron field, from the
-Celtic word, a field or inclosure (_lhan._) In the later times of the
-empire, when they shortened words, it was called _Colana_; and some
-critic restoring _Croco_ to it, doubled the second syllable; whence it
-is found in Antoninus his Itinerary, _Crococolanum_: but I judge Mr.
-Baxter’s derivation of it is right, _ericetum pulchrum_: the ground is
-very woody and pleasant, and full of goss or heath, in Welsh _grûg_.
-From _Colana_, Collinghams, two miles off, probably had their name,[91]
-springing up from its ruins, as well as Newark, the Saxons approaching
-nearer the water side; the Trent and the Foss road being neglected,
-which supported the Roman town by travellers chiefly. Collinghams
-stand upon a mere or rivulet, abounding with springs called the Fleet,
-running into the Trent. The lands at Collingham belong to Peterborough
-church; probably the gift of some king:[92] they have a report, that
-one arch of South Collingham church came from Brough, which is
-probably true of the whole: they say Collingham was a market-town
-before Newark; and that Brough was a famous place in time of the Danes,
-who destroyed it in Edmund Ironside’s days. Danethorp is hard by, the
-seat lately of lady Grey.
-
-At Brough no Roman token visible, but the remarkable straitness of all
-the roads and by-lanes thereabouts: the city has been most perfectly
-levelled by the plough, so that the mark of ridge and furrow remains
-in the very road: the hedge-rows were planted since. Were it not for
-many distinguishing tokens, one may be apt to conclude as Floras did,
-_laborat annalium fides ut Veios fuisse credamus_. They say here was
-a church upon a place called chapel-yard, and a font was once taken
-up there. The old landlady at the little ale-house, which is the only
-house there, till Thomas Cope’s and another were lately built, says,
-that where her fire-place is, the cross once stood; and that the whole
-is fairy ground, and very lucky to live on. There have been many
-Roman coins dug up here, and all the way between it and Newark:[93] I
-bought a large brass _Faustina junior_, lately found in the corn-field
-over-against the ale-house: in digging too they find great foundations,
-for half a mile together, on each side the road, with much rusty iron,
-iron ore and iron cinders; so that it is probable here was an eminent
-Roman forge. Across the road was a vast foundation of a wall, and part
-still remains: out of one hole they showed me, has been dug up ten or
-fifteen load of stone; so that it should seem to have been a gate: the
-stones at the foundation are observed to be placed edgewise, and very
-large ones, but not of a good sort: this was the method the Romans
-justly thought most convenient, in this springy soil; for the springs
-rise here, all about, within two foot of the surface. They told me some
-very large copper Roman coins have been found here, and silver too, and
-many pots, urns, bricks, &c. they call the money Brough pennies. The
-earl of Stanford is lord of the manor, and all is copy-hold, probably
-originally in the crown. The country people have a notion that the Foss
-road is the oldest in England, and that it was made by William the
-Conqueror. This is all that I could learn of this city, which I thought
-no contemptible gleaning from the shipwreck of time; for
-
- _Jam seges est ubi Troja fuit_——
-
-is true of all the stations of this whole journey, more or less; and I
-was glad when any part of the harvest might be applied to the gathering
-of antiquities. From hence the road goes extremely strait to Newark
-between hedge-rows, having the steeple before us as a visto: but, much
-to their disgrace, it is in very ill repair; nay, in some places they
-dig the very stone and gravel out of it to mend their streets.
-
-[Sidenote: +Newark.+]
-
-Newark was certainly raised from the neighbouring Roman cities, and has
-been walled about with their remains: the northern and eastern gate,
-still left, are composed of stones seemingly of a Roman cut; and not
-improbably the Romans themselves had a town here; for many antiquities
-are found round about it,[94] especially by the Foss side, which runs
-quite through the town. My friend the reverend Mr. Warburton, of this
-place, gave me a coin or two dug up here; and likewise this further
-information, that lately a gentleman (Mr. Holden) digging to plant
-some trees by the Foss road side, discovered four urns lying in a
-strait line, and at equal distances: they were soon broke in pieces
-by the workmen, imagining to find treasure therein: in one there was
-only a rude piece of brass, about the bulk of a small walnut, half
-melted down, with a bit of bone and some of the ashes sticking in the
-surface thereof, amidst the other burnt bones and ashes: he conjectured
-that it was a _fibula_ belonging to the habit of the dead: there
-were square earthen beads in others, which seem to be British: in
-another was a small brass _lar_ about an inch and half long, but much
-consumed by rust: he told me likewise a pot of Roman money was found at
-Carlton-scrope near them. There are two fine stone crosses at Newark:
-the market-place is a spacious square: the church is very large and
-handsome, with a very high steeple.[95]
-
-[Illustration: 90 _A Prospect of_ Ad Pontem _upon the Eminence. A Mile
- South on the Foss. Sep. 7. 1722._
-
- _W. Stukeley delin._ a. _Old work Spring._ b. _the Foss_ c. _a
- Tumulus_ RR. _the Roman City._ _E. Kirkall Sculp._]
-
-[Sidenote: +Ad Pontem.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XC.]
-
-From Newark the Foss passes by Queen’s Sconce, one of the great forts
-erected in the civil wars, and so along the Trent side by Stoke, famous
-for a battle, and an inn called the Red inn. We arrived, at about six
-miles distance south of Newark, to the station of the Romans called _Ad
-pontem_. East Bridgford lies near a mile to the right upon the river
-Trent: doubtless there was the bridge over the river, which created
-the denomination, in the Roman times, as being the passage from the
-eastern parts to those beyond the Trent: and as to this particular
-station upon the road, perhaps a bridge was the sign of the inn, that
-travellers might know where to turn out for that purpose, for I cannot
-suppose here was a bridge at the road. At Bridgford they told us there
-were formerly great buildings and cellars on the right as you descend
-to the Trent, and a quay upon the river for vessels to unlade at.[96]
-The Roman station upon the Foss I found to be called Boroughfield,
-west of the road: here a spring arises under the hedge, called Oldwork
-spring, very quick, running over a fine gravel; the only one hereabouts
-that falls eastward, not directly into the neighbouring Trent, towards
-Newton. Hereabouts I saw the Roman foundations of walls, and floors
-of houses, composed after the manner before spoken, of stones set
-edgewise in clay, and liquid mortar run upon them: there are likewise
-short oaken posts or piles at proper intervals, some whereof I pulled
-up with my own hands. Dr. Batteley tells us of oak very firm, found
-at Reculver, under the Roman cisterns: the earth all around looks
-very black: they told us that frequently the stones were laid upon a
-bed of pease-straw and rush-rope or twisted hay, which remained very
-perfect. Houses stood all along upon the Foss, whose foundations have
-been dug up, and carried to the neighbouring villages. They told us too
-of a most famous pavement near the Foss way: close by, in a pasture,
-Castle-hill close, has been a great building, which they say was
-carried all to Newark. John Green of Bridgeford, aged 80, told me that
-he has taken up large foundations there, much ancient coin, and small
-earthen pipes for water: his father, aged near 100, took up many pipes
-fourscore yards off the castle, and much fine free-stone: some well cut
-and carved: there have been found many urns, pots, and Roman bricks;
-but the people preserved none of them; and some that had coins would by
-no means let us see them, for fear we were come from the lord of the
-manor. About a mile farther is a _tumulus_ upon an eminence of the road
-beyond Bingham lane, a fine prospect to Belvoir castle, Nottingham,
-the Trent, &c. whence I took a small sketch of the road we had passed,
-regretting the oblivion of so many famous antiquities.
-
-In my journey forwards, upon the declension of a stiff clayey hill,
-near the lodge upon the wolds, an inn under a great wood. The pavement
-upon the road is very manifest, of great blue flag-stones laid edgewise
-very carefully: the quarries whence they took them are by the side
-of the hill: this pavement is a hundred foot broad, or more; but all
-the way thence it has been intirely paved with red flints, seemingly
-brought from the sea-coasts: these are laid, with the smoothest face
-upwards, upon a bed of gravel over the clayey marl, which reaches
-beyond Margidunum; that we may well say,
-
- _O quantæ pariter manus laborant!
- Hi cædunt nemus, exuuntque montes.
- Hi ferro scopulos trabesque cædunt_, &c. +Stat. Sylv.+ iv.
-
-This pavement is very broad, and visible where not covered with dirt,
-and especially in the frequent breaches thereof. They preserve a report
-still, that it was thus paved all the way from Newark to Leicester,
-and that the Foss way went through Leicester shambles: the yard of the
-lodge in the wold is paved with these same stones plundered from the
-road. June 15, 1728, Mr. L. Hurst, of Grantham, told me he saw at Mr.
-Gascoign’s, a goldsmith in Newark, a large gold ring weighing 42s.
-lately brought him by a countryman, which he found upon the Foss-way.
-There was a seal upon the gold; a fox (he thought) engraved under a
-tree. Afterward I bought the seal: it is a wolf under a tree. Perhaps
-Norman. AD PONTEM.
-
-[Sidenote: +Margidvnvm.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XCI.]
-
-Willughby brook is the next water. When arrived over-against Willughby
-on the wold on the right, Upper and Nether Broughton on the left,
-you find a _tumulus_ on Willughby side of the road, famous among
-the country people: it is called Cross hill: upon this they have an
-anniversary festival: the road parts the two lordships; but the name
-of Broughton set me to work to find the Roman town, among the people
-getting in harvest. After some time I perceived I was upon the spot,
-being a field called Henings, by which I suppose is meant the ancient
-meadows: this is upon the brow of the hill overlooking Willughby
-brook, rising in Dalby lordship, and playing in pretty meanders along
-a valley between corn-fields, with a moderate water unless raised by
-rains. Here they said had been an old city, called Long Billington: it
-is often called the Black field in common discourse, from the colour
-and excessive richness of the soil, so that they never lay any manure
-upon it. Here is a place called Thieves, and on the other side of the
-valley a place called Wells, near where now a barn stands: and all
-this length they say the city reached, and that there was a church on
-the top of Wells; but the city was mostly on Willughby side; for the
-land on the other side in Broughton lordship is poor, whilst this is
-luxuriant to the last degree; so that a farmer once happening to set
-his sheep-fold here, it rotted the corn upon the spot; and often
-he has been forced to mow the blade before it spindled (in their way
-of talking.) The soil is perfectly black, though all the circumjacent
-land be red, especially north of the valley upon the edge of the hill,
-and where most antiquities are found; which certainly was the true
-place, whence the Roman name, signifying a marly hill. Richard Cooper,
-aged 72, has found many brass and silver coins here: there have been
-some of gold. They have a notion of great riches being under ground,
-and a vulgar report that one balk, or mere, (i. e. a division between
-the ploughed fields) has as much money under it, as would purchase
-the whole lordship: but people have been frighted from digging it by
-spirits; and several pleasant stories are told thereupon. They have
-likewise a tradition that the city was destroyed by _thieves_, perhaps
-from the place so called. Many Mosaic pavements have been dug up: my
-landlord Gee of Willughby says, he has upon ploughing met with such
-for five yards together, as likewise coins, pot-hooks, fire-shovels
-and the like utensils, and many large brass coins, which they took for
-weights, ounces and half-ounces, but upon trial found them somewhat
-less. Broad stones and foundations are frequent upon the side of the
-Foss: several found at Wells. The ground naturally is so stiff a marl,
-that at Willughby town they pave their yards with stones, fetched from
-the Foss way even to the slope of their pits, for the cattle to drink
-at. At Over and Nether Broughton, and Willughby too, the coins are so
-frequent, that you hear of them all the country round. There is a fine
-prospect from Wells hill every way, whence I drew a little view of the
-place. In Willughby town is a handsome cross of one stone, five yards
-long: in the time of the reforming rebellion the soldiers had tied
-ropes about it to pull it down; but the vicar persuaded them to commute
-for some strong beer, having made an harangue to show the innocence
-thereof. Richard Cooper likewise told me of a pot of Roman money found
-at Wilford near Nottingham.
-
-[Illustration: 91 Prospect of Margidunum from Wells hill _by yᵉ Barn
- upon_ Foss _Sept. 8. 1722. Nobilissimo Principi Duci Kingstoniæ &c._
-
- _W. Stukeley delin._ To face +Nether Broughton+ _Kirkall Sculp._]
-
-[Illustration: 11 CROSSES
-
- _Sᵗ. Guthlac’s Cross upon the bank, between Crowland & Spalding,
- near Peakill Lineʳ._
-
- _Ivy Cross by Romans bank in Sutton Sᵗ. James Parish Holland
- Lincʳ.]_
-
- _The Pedestal of a Cross, Hadenham Cambʳ._
-
- _A Stone Cross found at Sᵗ. John Old Castles near the Barr.
- Presented to Lord_ Harley _by Mʳ._ J. Mickleton, _deceased._
-
- _On the Pedestal of a Stone Cross at Drayton near_ Norwich.
-
- _This Cross was at Ednam Lincʳ. drawn by Sʳ._ H. Spelman. Form
- Octangular, 9 Inches Diam. 4 Sides twice as broad as the other._
-
- _At Willughby on the Wold, one Stone 5 yards high_
-
- _Stukeley delin:_ _E. Kirkall scu._]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XI.]
-
-So much for Margidunum, of which we may say,
-
- _Nunc passim vix relliquias vix nomina servans._
-
-In passing forwards towards Leicester, between here and the river Wrek,
-I found the Foss road began to be very obscure, not only where it
-has been ploughed up in some places, but where it goes over a grassy
-common: the reason is, travellers have quite worn it away, because of
-the badness of the roads; and the negligence of the people so far from
-repairing it, that they take away the materials. Moreover, you are oft
-in danger of losing it through the many intersections of cross roads;
-and sometimes it is inclosed with pastures, or passes under the sides
-of a wood: therefore upon every hill-top I made an observation of some
-remarkable object on the opposite high ground, which continued the
-right line; so that by going strait forwards I never failed of meeting
-it again. I observed too, that at such a time of the day exactly, the
-sun was perpendicular to the road; for it continues the same bearing
-throughout: this I tried by the compass soon after I left Lincoln,
-and when I came to High-cross, where it crosses the Watling-street,
-and at intermediate places; finding it always butted upon the same
-degree, to surprising exactness. At Abketilby in the vale of Belvoir,
-and thereabouts, in the quarries is a vein of rag-stone wholly made of
-shells, covered with a thin vein of good hewing stone: this is in one
-corner of that great vale, under the Lincolnshire _Alpes_.
-
-[Sidenote: +Shipley-Hill+ Br _barrow_.]
-
-At Cossington (just before I came to the river Wrek, parting the
-counties) is a vast barrow, 350 foot long, 120 broad, 40 high or near
-it: it is very handsomely worked up on the sides, and very steep: it
-seems to have lost some of its length at both ends, especially the
-northern, a torrent running close by: it stands exactly north and
-south, upon the very edge of the ings; and in wet times it must be
-almost incompassed with water: they call it Shipley hill, and say a
-great captain called Shipley was buried there. I doubt not but this is
-of great antiquity, and Celtic, and that the intent of it is rightly
-preserved by the country people; but as to the name of him I can say
-nothing. On the top are several oblong double trenches cut in the
-turf, where the lads and lasses of the adjacent villages meet upon
-Easter-Monday yearly, to be merry with cakes and ale. I observed upon
-the Foss, all along, that in almost every parish were such like tables,
-for the same purpose; and such a one I formerly found at Rowldrich
-stones in Oxfordshire. Near this place, at Radcliff, so called from
-the road, it seems that the Foss road passes over this brook, and
-filling up its cavity, made it necessary to cut a new channel, that
-the road might run strait, and like the Roman _terminus_ give place to
-nothing. Having passed the river, it proceeds over the meadows: just
-beyond them is a large round _tumulus_, which I suppose Roman: then the
-road goes strait through Thumarton, and ends full upon the east gate
-of Leicester. But before we speak of this station, we must with the
-Itinerary make an excursion to take in _Vernometum_.
-
-[Sidenote: +Vernometum.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XXII 2d Vol.]
-
-There seems to be no Roman way between _Ratæ_ and _Vernometum_;[97]
-but coming from _Margidunum_, you turn out of the road by Sison
-over-against Radcliffe before mentioned. This place is Borough, or
-Erdborough, i. e. the earthy camp, in Gartre hundred east of Leicester.
-It is a very great Roman camp upon a very high hill, the north-west
-tip of a ridge of hills, and higher than any other part of it, of a
-most delightful and extensive prospect, reaching as far as Lincoln
-one way: the fortification takes in the whole summit of the hill; the
-high rampire is partly composed of vast loose stones piled up and
-covered with turf: it is of an irregular figure, humouring the form
-of the ground, nearly a square, and conformed to the quarters of the
-heavens: its length lies east and west, the narrowest end eastward: it
-is about 800 foot long, and for the most part there is a ditch besides
-the rampire, to render the ascent still more difficult to assailants:
-the entrance is south-west at a corner from a narrow ridge: here
-two rampires advance inwards, like the sides of a gate, for greater
-strength: within is a rising hill about the middle, and they say that
-vaults have been found thereabouts. Antiquarians talk of a temple,
-which possibly may have been there, and in the time of the Britons:
-thus the old _Fanum_ of Apollo at Delphos was in a concavity on the
-top of a hill. The name of _Vernometum_ signifies a sacred plain, as
-they tell us from authority. It contains about sixteen acres: several
-springs rise from under the hill on all sides, and I observed the rock
-thereof is composed intirely of sea-shells: they frequently carry
-away the stones that form the rampires, to mend the roads with. The
-town itself is now but a small village. There is another Roman castle
-southward near Tilton, but not so big as Borough hill: a petrifying
-spring near it, and a Roman road, as thought, called Long Hedges. I am
-not without suspicion that the true name is _Verometum_, and must be
-sought for somewhere near a river.
-
-[Sidenote: +Ratæ+ Coritanorum.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XCII.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LV.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XXIII. 2d Vol.]
-
-[Sidenote: +Rawdikes+ _a_ Br. _cursus_.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XXIV. XXV. XXVI. XXVII. 2d Vol.]
-
-Leicester is the _Ratæ Coritanorum_ of the Romans. The trace of the
-Roman wall quite round is discoverable without difficulty, especially
-in the gardens about Senvy gate: there was a ditch on the outside,
-very visible in the gardens thereabouts: it is 2500 Roman feet long,
-and as much broad towards the south-east, 2000 Roman feet broad to the
-north-west: this was repaired by Edelfleda, a noble Saxon lady, anno
-914. but the stories in Mr. Camden, of the piles it stood on, and the
-indissoluble tenacity of the mortar, seem meant of the Roman work. The
-streets run in the manner we observed of _Camboritum_, the length of
-the city being from north-west to south-east. There is a Roman musive
-pavement in a cellar, in part remaining, of a person standing by a
-deer, Cupid drawing his bow, delineated in differently-coloured small
-stones as usual.[98] The old work called Jewry wall is composed of
-rag-stone and Roman brick: several fragments and foundations are in all
-the houses hereabouts of this building, whatever it were, as well as in
-the adjacent church, which seems to be built in the very _area_ of it,
-and out of its ruins. Not far off is a place called Holy Bones, where
-abundance of bones of oxen have been dug up, the _exuvia_ of their
-sacrifices: this is however a most noble piece of Roman antiquity, and
-I lament it should be so much abused. Many Roman coins are found at
-Leicester: at the entrance into White Friers a pot full dug up about
-five years ago, and many great foundations. At St. Mary de Pree’s
-abbey they dug up a body, about three years ago, which they supposed
-to be cardinal Wolsey’s: in this abbey is nought worth seeing, but a
-pleasant terrace-walk, supported by an embattled wall, with lunettes
-hanging over the river and shadowed with trees. The little remains of
-the old building are new modelled by later hands, and scarce to be
-distinguished: it was made a dwelling-house since the Dissolution; and
-that is now spoiled of floors, roof, and windows; and the naked walls
-are left to daily ruin and pillage: the spot of the abbey is turned
-into a garden: they show us a place in it, where has been much search
-for the famous cardinal’s body; but it did not seem to me a likely
-place. The church, though wholly erased, did not probably come out
-so far toward the river: indeed there is thorough work made of all
-the religious houses at Leicester, and scarce one stone left in its
-original site. St. Margaret’s church was a bishop’s see in the time of
-the Saxon kings. Within the castle is a collegiate hospital, founded
-by Henry earl of Lancaster, who with his son Henry duke of Lancaster
-lie buried in the chapel: the church was very fine, demolished in the
-Suppression. Here, say some, was buried Richard III. this castle was
-built by Simon de Montfort. There is a very pretty arch reaching across
-the river, called Bowbridge, at Black Friers, under which they have
-a notion that king Richard III. was buried; which seems to allude to
-the British romance that tells of king Lear being buried here. Half
-a mile southward from Leicester, upon the edge of the meadows is a
-long ditch called Rawdikes: upon view of the place I found it to be a
-British _cursus_. King Charles I. when besieging Leicester, lay at the
-vicarage-house at Elston; and during the storm of the town, when his
-men took and pillaged it, he stood, as they report, upon the banks of
-this Rawdikes. About February 1721–2. a tesselated pavement was found
-the other side the river, about Wanlip, with coins of Constantine,
-broken urns, a human scull, &c. a foundation by it, doubtless of the
-house that covered it.
-
-[Illustration: _Prospect of_ Burrow hill _from the Leicester road.
-Sepᵗ. 8. 1722._ +Vernometvm.+
-
- _Stukeley delin._ _E. Kirkall sculp._
-
- Willᵒ: Cheselden Chirurgo peritissimo, Amico _Tab. dd. W. Stukeley_.
-
- _Key found at Burrow Hill_
-
- _T. Lyus Delin._
-
- _from Revᵈ. G Ashby’s Museolum at Barrow Suffolk. 1791]
-
-[Illustration: 92 _Leicester._
-
- Samueli Carte A.M. d.d. W. Stukeley.
-
- _Stukeley delin._]
-
-[Illustration: 55 _The Roman Building commonly called the Temple of Janus
- at Leicester._
-
- _Ne tantam Ruinam absorbeat Inimica Ætas aq. forti fecit. Wˢ.
- Stukeley & Samⁱ Gale Ar. consecratā voluit. 1722._]
-
-[Illustration: 23·2ᵈ. _The west side of the_ roman building _at_
- +Leicester+ _Sept: 8. 1722_.
-
- _Stukeley delin_: _E. Kirkall sculp_:]
-
-[Illustration: 24·2ᵈ.]
-
-[Illustration: 25·2ᵈ. _A Prospect of the British Cursus near
- Leicester, call’d Raw Dikes from the hills above. September 10.
- 1722._]
-
-[Illustration: 26·2ᵈ. _The Side View of the British Cursus at Leicester
- Sep. 10. 1722._
-
-_Stukeley del._ _I. Vᵈᵉʳ. Gucht Sculp._]
-
-[Illustration: 27·2ᵈ. _A Prospect of the British Cursus at Leicester
- call’d Rawdikes from the other side of yᵉ River by the Foss road Sep.
- 9. 1722._]
-
-Soon after you go from Leicester, taking the Foss at Bronstongate, you
-come to some inclosures and troublesome gates across the road: here
-they have fenced it out into a narrow scantling, scarce the breadth
-of a coach, to the shame as well as the detriment of the country,
-suffering so scandalous an incroachment. I travelled by Narborough
-on the west side of the river, and a very wet journey under foot for
-one that was resolved to keep upon the road: sometimes I rode half
-a mile up to the horse’s belly in water upon the Roman pavement.
-The river Soar running near its east side, it is carried over many
-bogs, quags, and springs, for miles together, with a visible pavement
-of great round coggles by Sharnford, so called from the causeway:
-approaching High-cross it enters inclosures again, and is crossed by
-some more lakes scarce passable. Just upon the edge of Leicestershire
-and Warwickshire, at High-cross, I met the Watling-street, my future
-conductor.
-
-[Sidenote: +Benonis.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XCIII.]
-
-Benonis stands in the intersection of the two great Roman roads that
-traverse the kingdom obliquely, and seems to be the centre of England,
-and highest ground; for from hence rivers run every way. The Foss
-went across the back-side of the inn, and so towards Bath. The ground
-hereabouts, the site of the ancient city, is very rich; and many
-antiquities, stones, Roman bricks, &c. have been dug up: Roman coins
-were found when they ploughed the field west of the cross.[99] Much
-_ebulus_ grows here, sought for in cure of dropsies. Claybroke lane has
-a bit of an old quick-set hedge left across it, betokening one side
-of the Foss: the bearing of the Foss here is exactly north-east and
-south-west, as upon the moor on this side Lincoln. In the garden before
-the inn was a _tumulus_ lately taken away: under it they found the
-body of a man upon the plain surface, as likewise under several others
-hereabouts upon the Watling-street. Foundations of houses have been
-frequently dug up along the street here, all the way to Cleycester.
-Here is a cross of handsome design, but of a mouldering stone, through
-the villainy of the architect, one Dunkley, built at the charge of
-the late earl of Denbigh, and the gentlemen in the neighbourhood: it
-consists of four Doric columns regarding the four roads, with a gilded
-globe and cross a-top upon a sun-dial: on two sides, between the four
-Tuscan pillars, that compose a sort of pedestal, are these inscriptions.
-
- _Vicinarum provinciarum Vervicensis
- Scilicet & Leicestrensis ornamenta
- Proceres patriciique auspiciis
- Illustrissimi Basilii comitis de
- Denbigh hanc columnam statuendam
- curaverunt in gratam pariter
- & perpetuam memoriam Jani tandem
- a serenissima Anna clausi._
-
-
- A. D. MDCCXII.
-
- _Si veterum Romanorum vestigia
- quæras, hic cernas viator. Hic enim
- celeberrimæ illorum viæ militares
- sese mutuo secantes ad extremos usque
- Britanniæ limites procurrunt, hic
- stativa sua habuerunt Vennones & ad
- primum abhinc lapidem castra sua
- ad stratam & ad fossam tumulum
- Claudius quidam cohortis præfectus
- habuisse videtur._
-
-Cloudbury-hill, two thorn-bushes upon a _tumulus_ on the Foss,
-supposed the sepulchre of one Claudius. The city probably was of a
-square form, humouring the crossing of the roads, and had consequently
-four streets and four quarters. Many foundations are dug up along all
-the roads. It commands a charming prospect to _Ratæ_, _Vernometum_,
-Coventry, &c. and quite round. You go through a gate by the cross to
-regain the Foss: at the length of a pasture it meets the true old road.
-
-[Illustration: 93 +Bennonis.+
- _Sepᵗ. 9. 1722._
-
- _Stukeley del_: _I. Vᵈᵉʳ. Gucht Sculp._
-
- _Thomæ Bacon Ar Relliquias Romanas dd. Wˢ. Stukeley._
-
- _Coins found near High-Cross_
-
- High Cross. A.D. 1618.
-
- High Cross, 1722.
-
- _Bonnonis Sept. 9. 1722._]
-
-[Sidenote: +Watling-street.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LVI.]
-
-Being now got upon the Watling-street, I made this remark of it, that
-it is the direct road to Rome: for take a ruler, and lay it in a map
-of Europe from Chester through London and Dover, and it makes a strait
-line with Rome: so the great founders had this satisfaction when they
-travelled upon it, that they were ever going upon the line that led
-to the imperial Capitol. Our antiquarians are much at a loss, after
-torturing of words and languages, to find out the reason of the name
-of this street, which is so notorious, that many other by-roads of the
-Romans, in different parts of the kingdom, have taken the same, and it
-became almost the common appellative of such roads. My judgment of it
-is this: it is natural to denominate great roads from the places they
-tend to, as the Icening-street from the Iceni: the Akeman-street is
-said to come from Akemancester: in Wiltshire, and other places, the
-way to Exeter they call the Exeter road, though a hundred mile off:
-so the London road is every where inquired for as the most remarkable
-place: thus _Watling-street_, tending directly to Ireland, no doubt was
-called the Irish road, that is the _Gathelian_ road, _Gathelin-street_;
-whence our present word _Wales_ from _Gauls_, _warden_ from _guardian_,
-&c. _Scoti qui & Gaidelii_ says _ogygia extera_. Whether there be any
-thing in the story of Gathelus, as founder of the Irish, I do not
-concern myself at present; but their language is called _Gaothela_:
-so Mr. Camden says the true genuine Scots own not that name, but
-call themselves _gaoithel_, _gaiothlac_, as coming from Ireland;
-and that they glory in this name: and there is no dispute but this
-is the ancient appellative of the Irish,[100] which the learned Mr.
-Edward Lluyd has turned into _Gwydhelians_: and this name, which has
-superseded that which the Romans gave it, (whatever it was) seems to
-show there was such a road in the ancient times of the Britons, as the
-track of the trade between Ireland and the continent; yet it must be
-owned nought but Roman hands reduced it to the present form.
-
-Hence-forward we turn our course upon the Gathelin-street directly for
-London along with the Itinerary. The road is now altogether between
-hedge-rows, very clayey and bad, full of lakes and mires, through the
-intolerable negligence of the inhabitants: here and there they have
-stupidly mended it, by making a ditch in the middle of the road to
-raise a bank of earth; for which they ought rather to be punished than
-commended.
-
-I turned out of the road to the west, through some inclosures, to see
-Cester-over, induced by the name. I found a house in a little square
-deeply intrenched upon the side of a hill, but the earth rather thrown
-outward than inward as a _vallum_, and the level within much lower than
-the field around it. I perceived it was a religious house; some part of
-the building left; and without the ditch a fine chapel, built of brick
-with good stone coins and mullioned windows, converted into a barn:
-and a-cross a valley hard by I saw dams, or stanks, for fish-ponds.
-The people within could give me no manner of intelligence, having but
-lately come thither. I fancied it to have been a nunnery, and that it
-was called _Sister-over_, to distinguish it from other neighbouring
-towns; as _Church-over_, _Browns-over_, _&c._ but afterwards I learnt
-from other hands that there is a close called Old-town, where they dig
-up foundations, being very rich land (said to have been a city) lord
-Brook possessor.
-
-[Sidenote: +Tripontium.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XCIV.]
-
-Thence passing a rivulet, from Bensford bridge[101] I came to
-_Tripontium_, placed in a sweet little valley, but the sides pretty
-steep: the road on the opposite hill looks perfectly like a perspective
-scene at the play-house. This is the next Roman station, which is
-rightly placed at Dovebridge upon the Avon, running by Rugby to
-Warwick. The stream here divides into two, with a bridge over each:
-upon one a stone inscription, very laconic, showing the three counties
-that repair it. The first syllable of _Tripontium_ has relation to
-the old British word _tre_, a town or fortification: the remainder is
-generally thought to signify a bridge; but it is not to be imagined
-the Romans would make a bridge over this rill, or one so eminently
-large as to denominate the town: indubitably it comes from the
-British word _pant_, a little valley as this is, and remarkably so;
-which the Britons pronouncing broad, created the Latin _Tripontium_.
-Here are no manner of remains of antiquity, but the distances on each
-hand ascertain this the place: hard by antiquities have been found both
-at Cathorp and Lilburn, one on the north, the other on the south of
-the river; so that the Roman city stood on both sides. Castle hills, a
-place at Lilburn, where are some old walls: Camden speaks of it. Mr.
-Morton has treated largely on this station, to whom I refer the reader.
-The neighbouring Newton probably succeeded it, and then Rugby.
-
- Yet rolling Avon still maintains its stream,
- Swell’d with the glories of the Roman name.
- Strange power of fate, unshaken moles must waste,
- While things that ever move for ever last!
-
-With this reflection of the poet leave we the name of _Tripontium_,
-made immortal in the imperial Itinerary.
-
-[Illustration: 94 Johi Bridges Ar. _Romanæ Stationis in Comitatu Suo.
- delineationem d.d. W.ˢ Stukeley._
-
- _Dowbridg_
-
- TRIPONTIUM
- 9 Sep. 1722]
-
-[Sidenote: +Burrow hill.+ Ro. _camp_.]
-
-[Sidenote: +Arbury Hill.+ Ro. _camp_.]
-
-When we mount the next hill there is a lovely prospect as far as
-Watford-gap, four miles off, a great vale or rather level meadow lying
-between, a-cross which the road is drawn: and hereabouts the ridge of
-it is very high for miles together: the nature of the way, on both
-sides being stoney, has spared it. Several _tumuli_ upon the road;
-bodies found under them: this shows the Romans did not travel upon
-them on horse-back. Watford-gap is a convenient inn for antiquaries to
-supply the mansion of _Tripontium_, which I think proper to advertise
-them of: it has a pleasant prospect of the road northwards: it is a
-high hill, and a rock of stone six foot under the surface, which is
-softish; then a bed of clay; under that a blue hard stone of good
-depth: below this rock it is springy, and at the bottom by the meadows
-are many quick springs. At Legers Ashby near here has been another old
-town, as they say, destroyed by the Danes: there are great ditches,
-causeways, and marks of streets. Catesby owned the town, who hatched
-the powder-plot. I went out of the road through Norton to see a great
-camp called Burrow hill, upon the north end of a hill covered over with
-fern and goss: here is a horse-race kept; and the whole hill-top, which
-is of great extent, seems to have been fortified: but the principal
-work upon the end of it is squarish, double ditched, of about twelve
-acres: the inner ditch is very large, and at one corner has a spring:
-the _vallum_ is but moderate: a squarish work within, upon the highest
-part of the camp, like a _prætorium_. They say this was a Danish camp;
-and every thing hereabouts is attributed to the _Danes_, because of
-the neighbouring _Daventre_, which they suppose to be built by them:
-the road hereabouts too being overgrown with _dane-weed_, they fancy
-it sprung from the blood of the Danes slain in battle, and that, if
-upon a certain day in the year you cut it, it bleeds. As to the camp,
-I believe it to be originally Roman; but that it has been occupied by
-some other people, and perhaps the Danes, who have new modelled it,
-and made new works to it. Consult Mr. Moreton, who has discoursed very
-largely about it. Much _cotyledon_ and _ros solis_ grow in the springs
-hereabouts: the stone is red and sandy, and brim-full of shells. I saw
-a fine _cornu ammonis_ lie neglected in Norton town road, too big to
-bring away, and where they have fresh mended the Watling-street with
-this stone; it was an amusement for some miles to view the shells in
-it. Hereabouts the road is overgrown with grass and trefoil, being well
-nigh neglected for badness, and the trade wholly turned another way,
-by Coventry, for that reason. Between the head of the Leam and this
-Avon is Arbury hill in view, another Roman camp, upon a very high hill;
-notoriously made for a guard between the two rivers.
-
-[Sidenote: +Benavona.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XXVIII. 2d Vol.]
-
-[Sidenote: +Castledikes.+]
-
-The next station the Watling-street leads us to is Weedon on the
-street; beyond dispute _Benavona_, as surely it ought to be wrote,
-being situate on the head of the _Aufona_, running to _Northavonton_,
-or Northampton. This too affords but little matter for the antiquary.
-The old town seems to have been in two pastures west of the road, and
-south of the church, called Upper Ash-close and Nether Ash-close, or
-the Ashes; in which are manifest vestiges of the ditch and rampart
-that surrounded it, and many marks of great foundations: they show you
-the site of king Wolfhere’s palace, the Saxon kings of this province
-having their seat here. The Ashes was the Roman _castrum_: here was
-a chapel of St. Werberg, daughter of king Wolfhere, abbess to the
-nunnery in this place: there has been dug up abundance of very fine
-stone, and many Roman coins. Now Weedon consists of two parishes, and
-has been a market-town. There is a large Roman camp a little higher
-toward the river-head, southward a mile, as much from Watling-street,
-called Castledikes, probably one of those made by P. Ostorius Scapula,
-_proprætor_ under Claudius. Roman coin and pavements have been found
-there. I visited the place: it is of a very pleasant and healthful
-situation, being in a wood on the top of a dry hill: probably it was a
-Roman villa, afterwards rendered Saxon: a house stands by it. Another
-of these camps of Scapula I mentioned before, at Guildsborough. At
-Nether Hayford, on the other side the road, anno 1699, a Roman Mosaic
-pavement was found, of which Mr. Moreton gives us a drawing, but in too
-small a compass.
-
-[Sidenote: +Lactorodum.+]
-
-Towcester is a considerable town between two rivulets; but what
-its Roman name, time has envied us, the Itinerary passing it by.
-_Lactorodum_ is the next station, being Old Stretford, on the opposite
-side of the Ouse to Stony Stretford: many Roman coins have been found
-in the fields thereabouts, and queen Eleanor’s cross stood a little
-north of the Horse-shoe inn, pulled down in the rebellion; which shows
-that the town was on this side the bridge in the time of Edward I.
-Mr. Baxter says, the name imports the ford over the water. My friend
-Browne Willys esq; who lives in the neighbourhood, has inquired into
-the antiquities of this place, and gives us an account of them in
-his curious Treatise of Burroughs, which it is to be wished he would
-continue. A little on this side Stretford, to the west, upon very high
-ground stands Whaddon hall, Mr. Willys’s seat; it has a most delicate
-prospect: this manor formerly belonged to the lords Grey; one, a knight
-of the garter, lies buried in the church. Spencer the poet lived here,
-and the learned duke of Bucks. Here is the original picture of Dr.
-Willys: I saw many of his MSS. letters, consultations, lectures, and
-other works unprinted.
-
-Still higher stands Stukeley, a very large parish, on the same sort
-of soil as that in Huntingdonshire. This is the oldest church, and
-most intire, I ever saw, undoubtedly before the Conquest, in the plain
-ancient manner, being a parallelogram of four squares: two are allotted
-to the church; one covered by the steeple, which stands between it and
-the choir, carried across the church upon two round arches; one square
-to the choir, which is vaulted over with stone: the windows are small,
-with semi-circular arches, and few in number: at the west end are three
-arches, the door in the middlemost: the whole of a very good manner of
-symmetry.
-
-[Illustration: 28·2ᵈ. _Prospect of_ Benavona _July 6ᵗʰ. 1725._
-
- _Stukeley delin._ _Fletcher sculp._]
-
-[Sidenote: +Magiovinium.+]
-
-Thus far we have gone through Northamptonshire and Bucks: now we enter
-Bedfordshire, and arrive at _Magiovinium_, or Dunstable. The road
-hither from Fenny Stretford is deep sand (and comes from _Salinæ_,
-or _sandy_) till you arrive at the bottom of the chalk-hills, or
-_chiltern_, which arise very steep on this side, as being north-west,
-conform to my assumption, p. 4. The town stands upon this chalk;
-whence its Roman name, importing the white town:[102] it consists
-of four streets, intersecting at right angles, but oblique to the
-cardinal points, because such is the direction of the Icening and
-Watling-street, which here meet. In the centre stood one of those
-beautiful crosses of queen Eleanor; but fanatic zeal has robbed the
-town of this ornament. This being a high situation, and no running
-water near, they are forced to draw up their water, from very deep
-wells, by machinery of great wheels. Kingsbury, the royal seat
-over-against the church, is now a farm-house. The church is composed of
-many parts tacked together, some very old: it was part of the priory:
-arch-bishop Cranmer was the last prior here. In Dunstable church is
-this inscription,
-
- *Hic iacent Nicholaus Lane quondam presidens frat’nitat’ sci
- Johannis Baptiste De Dunstable qui obiit ii die mens’ Decembr anno
- Dm Mᵒ CCCCᵒ lir Et Agnes ur. eiᵒ quorum animabus propicietur Deus
- amen.*
-
-[Sidenote: +Maiden Bower.+ British.]
-
-[Sidenote: Tumuli _British_.]
-
-I visited Maiden-Bower,[103] mentioned by Mr. Camden, but cannot think
-its name has any relation to that of the town: though Roman coins
-have been found here, I am persuaded it is a British work, like that
-at Ashwell, at like distance from the Chiltern, and of like form, but
-more circular: it stands upon a plain, but not far from the edge of a
-lesser eminence of these hills, about a little mile from Dunstable: the
-rampire is pretty high, but very little sign of a ditch; nor do I think
-there ever was much more: it incloses about nine acres: the ground
-round it is ploughed: this chalk yields good wheat. Between here and
-the town is a long barrow called the Mill-hill, no doubt from a mill
-which was afterwards set upon it; the ends of it ploughed somewhat:
-it stands east and west: I have no scruple in supposing it Celtic. A
-high prominence of the Chiltern overlooks all, called the Five Knolls,
-from that number of barrows, or Celtic _tumuli_, round, pretty large,
-and ditched about upon the very _apex_ of the hill. Close by are two
-round cavities, as often observed in Wiltshire. The Icening-street runs
-under the bottom. These chalk hills have frequently veins of strong
-clay intermixed, and the like between these hills and the sand more
-northward. This great tract of chalk comes from the eastern sea, and
-traverses the kingdom much in a like direction with the Icening-street.
-
-At Woburn is some fullers earth. There was a noble abbey, now the seat
-of the duke of Bedford; in it several valuable works of Inigo Jones
-left, particularly a curious grotto.
-
-[Sidenote: +Durocobrivis.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB XXIX. 2d Vol.]
-
-From Dunstable the Itinerary leads us out of the road, going strait
-to Verolam, and takes in another station by the way, _Durocobrivis_;
-which demonstrates it was made not so much for travellers, as for
-the soldiery or officers that were to visit the garrisons, therefore
-comprehends as many as could conveniently be taken into that route.
-About this station antiquaries have been much divided, when it
-certainly ought to be placed at Berghamsted, commonly Barkamstead,
-in Hertfordshire, which well suits the assigned distances from
-_Magiovinium_, and the subsequent _Verolanium_, and has evidently been
-a Roman town, as its name imports; and probably the castle there stands
-upon a Roman foundation. It is certain Roman coins are frequently dug
-up there: my friend Mr. Browne Willys has a Roman coin, found there:
-young Mr. Whitfield, brother to the major at St. Alban’s, has many
-Roman coins, great and small, found in the castle at Berghamsted. The
-inside, within the walls where the lodgings were, is about two acres:
-the entrance was not at the corner, where now, but in the front of the
-south side: many chimneys remain in the wall, of the lodgings which
-extended quite round, leaving a spacious court within; and all the
-windows looked inward: the ground of the court is distinguishable,
-being good soil, and there they find the Roman coins; the rest is
-rubbish and foundations; so that the Saxon castle was made upon the
-Roman: the chapel seems to have stood against the west wall, where
-be signs of a stair-case: the walls are of flints gathered from the
-highlands, very thick, and laid with strong mortar. This town fully
-answers the distance in the Itinerary, and remarkably the import of
-the name, according to Mr. Baxter’s derivation, though he erroneously
-places it at Woburn, _civitas paludosi profluentis_; for here is a
-large marsh, or bog, wherein the ancient British _oppidum_ was placed:
-it is most sweetly surrounded with high, hard, and pleasant ground
-all around, full of hedge-rows, pastures, and arable: the castle was
-set very judiciously in the north side, upon a piece of dry ground,
-incompassed with springs, by the Saxons made exceedingly strong. The
-town is upon the south side of the marsh, stretching itself a good
-length in handsome buildings, and a broad street: the church is a large
-handsome building, a monumental _effigies_ of a knight and a lady; upon
-his coat a bend or belt, and in the sinister chief a martlet; a lion
-his crest under his feet: it is full of chapels and monuments old and
-new. This town has been an old corporation; the kings of Mercia resided
-here; Wightred, king of Kent and Mercia, anno 697, held a parliament
-here; and here king Ina’s laws were published: all which further
-confirm its being the place we assert.[104]
-
-Near is Ashridge, an abbey, now the seat of the duke of Bridgewater;
-a park finely wooded, especially with tall beech-trees full of mast.
-Hereabouts I observed many great stones composed wholly of little
-pebbles; others, of larger pebbles or flints petrified together
-exceeding hard. Near Ricmeresworth, at Moor park, Mr. Styles, digging a
-hill away, found veins of sea-sand with mussels in them, and many other
-curious particulars.
-
-[Sidenote: +Verolanium.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XCV.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB XXX XXXI.]
-
-We come again into the Watling-street at _Verolanium_. I need say
-little here, after Mr. Camden, Chancey, Weaver, and others. This was
-the famous _municipium_ of the Romans, destroyed by Boadicia. The form
-of the city is depicted in plate 95. in one part the ditch is double,
-but irregularly formed. I imagine the outermost was the only fence of
-the first city, which Boadicia destroyed before the walls were built,
-and these reduced it into a more square form; to which the inner ditch
-belonged. In some measure the track of the streets is visible, when
-the corn first comes up, or is nearly ripe: three years ago good part
-of the wall was standing; but ever since, out of wretched
-ignorance, even of their own interest, they have been pulling it up
-all around, to the very foundations, to mend the highway; and I met
-hundreds of cart-loads of Roman bricks, &c. carrying for that purpose,
-as I now rode through the old city, though they may have stone cheaper,
-because of the prodigious strength of the mortar, so that they cannot
-get up one whole brick in a thousand. The composition of the Roman wall
-is three foot layers of flint, and one foot made up of three courses
-of Roman brick: there are round holes quite through the wall, at about
-eight yards distance, in that corner still left by St. German’s chapel:
-another great piece of the wall is left by the west gate, called Gorham
-Block; it is always twelve foot thick. I saw a little brass _lar_, or
-_genius alatus_; another curious antiquity, of a brass knife-handle
-with odd faces and figures on it, now in possession of Sir Robert
-Cornwall, baronet; a little urn of white earth two inches and quarter
-high: part of a great wine-jar, 20 inches high, two foot diameter,
-in St. Michael’s vestry; another such in St. Alban’s church. In St.
-Michael’s church sleeps the great naturalist Bacon, who first revived
-the experimental way of philosophy: his mansion-house or manor was
-at Gorhambury, hard by, where is a statue of Henry VIII. and several
-things worth seeing: it is now the seat of my lord Grimstone. Infinite
-are the antiquities of all sorts that have been, and frequently are,
-dug up at _Verolam_. When I was making an ichnography of it, I could
-have taken several pecks of remainders of Mosaic pavements out of a
-little ditch near St. German’s chapel; and there is one or two intire
-yet under ground. As you walk along the great road that runs north and
-south through the city from St. Michael’s church, you see foundations
-of houses and streets, gutters, floors, &c. under the hedge-rows.
-The ancient part of the monastic church and the steeple are intirely
-built of Roman brick, fetched by the abbots from the old city. March
-1718–9 a Mosaic pavement was found. The Roman bricks are generally
-eighteen inches long, twelve broad, one and a half thick. I measured
-one in the south-wall of the school-house, by the east end of the
-abbey church, twenty-three inches long, three thick, which probably
-was made for hypocausts. Upon the walls of old _Verulam_ grows the
-_bee orchis_, a very curious plant. Many are the monuments, brasses,
-tombs, and inscriptions, in the abbey church: the vault of Humphry duke
-of Glocester was lately discovered: the high altar is a curious piece
-of Gothic work, which I have represented in two plates. Hard by is
-Sopwell nunnery, where they say Henry VIII. was married to Anna Bolen:
-part of it is standing. But to say any thing particular of religious
-antiquities, would be too tedious: they have lately been working hard
-at pulling up the old foundations of the abbey, and it is now levelled
-with the pasture, when three years ago one might make a tolerable
-guess at the ichnography of the place. In the heart of the town of the
-adjoining corporation stood another of queen Eleanor’s crosses, which
-they likewise intirely demolished, not considering that such kind of
-antiquities invite many curious travellers to come thither. This very
-year they pulled down the stone tower or gate-house on the north side
-of the abbey, within a month after I had taken a sketch of it. In St.
-Peter’s church I found this old inscription on a stone,
-
- *EDITHE : LE : UINETER : GIST : ICI : DIEU : DE
- SA : ALME : EIT : MERCI.*
-
-I shall add no more, than that my notion of the derivation of this
-town, and several others compounded of like words, is, a fair
-habitation, _Vrolân_, as it justly merits.
-
-[Illustration: 29·2ᵈ. _Prospect of_ Berghamsted _14. Sept. 1724._
- +Dvrocobrivis.+
-
- _Stukeley delin._ _E. Kirkall sculp._]
-
-[Illustration: 95 +Verolanivm+
-
-Martino Folkes Ar. observantiæ ergo d. _W. Stukeley_
-
- A. _To_ Suellaniacis
- B. _The Monastrey_
- C. _Sopwell a Nunnery_
- D. _Sᵗ Stephens_
- E. _Q. Elenors-cross_
- F. _Sᵗ Michaels_
- G. _A Bell-tower_
- H. _Sᵗ Marys chap_:
-
- _Stukeley delin._ _Parker Sculp_]
-
-[Illustration: 30
-
- _The high Altar at Sᵗ. Albans. 28. Dec 1720._ _Stukeley d._]
-
-[Illustration: 31 _The back side of the high altar at Sᵗ. Albans_
-
- _Stukeley d._]
-
-[Sidenote: +Suellaniacis.+]
-
-The Watling-street seems to have passed directly through the Roman
-city, a little southward of St. Michael’s church and St. Mary’s chapel,
-so by St. Stephen’s: nevertheless there is a road round about, without
-the south side of the city-walls, for those that had no occasion to go
-through the city: it goes by St. Julian’s, once an hospital; then by
-Colney-street and Radway; thence almost disused, and scarce known but
-from its straitness: it continues direct, but very narrow, the hedges
-having incroached upon it on both sides, till we arrive at our next
-station, _Suellaniacis_, upon Brockley hill, a little south of Elstre,
-and near Stanmore. From this eminence, where Mr. Philpot’s summer-house
-stands, is a sweet prospect across the Thames into Surrey: this is
-by Kendale wood, where formerly they found an old flint wall laid in
-terrace-mortar as they call it, meaning its strength, so hard that they
-could not possibly dig it up with pick-axes: they found an oven in the
-same place. Mr. Philpot, when digging his canal and foundations for his
-buildings, which are upon the site of the old city, found many coins,
-urns, and other antiquities. They have a proverb here,
-
- _No heart can think, nor tongue can tell,
- What lies between_ Brockley-hill _and_ Penny-well;
-
-meaning the coins found thereabouts. In the wood over-against the
-house, great quantity of Roman bricks, gold rings, and coins, have been
-found in digging; many arched vaults of brick and flints under the
-trees: the whole top of the hill is covered with foundations. Pennywell
-is a parcel of closes across the valley beyond _Suellaniacis_, where
-foundations are discernible: here likewise they say was a city: two or
-three years ago they dug privately, in hopes of finding treasure at
-this place. I am of Mr. Baxter’s opinion, that the name of this station
-has some reference to the famous British king _Suellan_, or Cassibelan,
-general of the Britons against Cæsar, and that his town was in this
-neighbourhood; which I shall consider more particularly upon another
-occasion. By the road side is a barrow lately dug away.
-
-Hence the road goes through Edgworth; and so at Paddington, by Tyburn,
-it crosses the other Roman road, called now Oxford-street, which was
-originally continued to Old-street, going north of London one way;
-the other way it proceeds by the back side of Kensington, and through
-an unfrequented path, till it falls into the present great road to
-Brentford, Stanes, &c. and it is a Roman road all the way, going pretty
-nearly east and west: therefore our Watling-street must cross it with
-an oblique angle; and by observation I found it to be about forty-five
-degrees. Higden takes notice the Watling-street ran to the west of
-Westminster, over the Thames, so through the middle of Kent: from
-Tyburn I judge it goes over part of Hyde-park,[105] and by May-fair,
-through St. James’s park, to the street by Old Palace-yard called the
-Wool-staple, to the Thames. Here has been an old gate; one part of
-the arch is still left, but not Roman. On the opposite side of the
-river is Stane-gate ferry, which is the continuation of this street to
-Canterbury, and so to the three famous sea-ports, _Rutupiæ_, _Dubris_,
-and _Lemanis_. This Oxford road was originally carried north of London,
-in order to pass into Essex, because London then was not considerable;
-but in a little time became well nigh lost; and Holborn was struck
-out from it, as conducting travellers thither, directly entering the
-city at Newgate, originally called Chamberlain’s gate, and so to
-Londonstone, the _lapis milliaris_ from which distances are reckoned:
-and hence the reason why the name of Watling-street is still preserved
-in the city, though the real Watling-street goes through no part of it,
-but through Southwark; or, if we please, we may call this a vicinal
-branch of the Watling-street.
-
-[Illustration: 57 +Londinivm+ Augusta
- _7. Nov. 1722._
-
- Illustrissimo Comiti Penbrokiæ Moecenati Eximio Sacra Tabula.
-
- _Stukeley delin._]
-
-[Sidenote: +Londinium.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LVII.]
-
-According to method I should speak of _Londinium_ here: but because
-the great deal that may be said thereupon will make a discourse by
-itself, we content ourselves at present with giving the plan of it,
-as we suppose it might appear in the times of the Romans; and so
-continuing our tour into Kent, will finish the whole continuation of
-the Watling-street with what few memoirs I could pick up at that time.
-
-As Old-street went on the north of London, so the proper Watling-street
-we have been upon, since High-cross in Warwickshire, went on the south;
-from Stane-gate ferry across St. George’s fields, so south of the Lock
-hospital to Deptford and Black heath: a small portion of the ancient
-way pointing to Westminster abbey is now the common road on this side
-the nearest turnpike; but the continuation of it is quite lost since
-the bridge was made, and all roads meet at that centre as so many
-_radii_. When London became considerable, the ferry over-against it,
-from being better attended, rendered that at Stangate almost useless;
-so passengers went through the city by Canon-street, Watling-street,
-and Holborn: hence so little appears of it between Tyburn and the Lock
-hospital; and probably its materials were long since wholly dug away to
-mend the highways. Upon this way in Southwark many Roman antiquities
-have been found, particularly a _Janus_ of stone, in possession of Dr.
-Woodward: but our business shall be to prosecute the end of the second
-journey and the whole third and fourth of Antoninus.
-
-From Shooters hill the direction of the road is very plain both ways:
-a mile westward from the bottom of the hill you find vestiges of it
-just upon the common: some part of the _agger_ is left, made of gravel
-near at hand: from the top of Shooters hill you see it butts upon
-Westminster abbey, where it passes the Thames; and this demonstrates
-its original direction, and that it was begun from the east; for the
-turn of the river at Greenwich intercepts it, though not observed in
-maps: so the way is forced to deflect a little southward there, and
-then recovers its point: beyond that hill it is very strait as far as
-the ken reaches. On Black heath a vast _tumulus_, now used as a butt
-for _archers_, hereabouts in great request till Henry the VIIIth’s
-time: and hence the name of _Shooters_ hill.
-
-[Sidenote: +Noviomagus.+]
-
-[Sidenote: +Northfleet.+ Ro. _town_.]
-
-It is to be noted that in the second journey of Antoninus, _Madviacis_,
-Maidstone, and _Durobrovis_, Rochester, are transposed; therefore
-in the whole between London and Rochester it is twenty-eight miles,
-as in both the next journeys called twenty-seven, (but more rightly
-the former:) so that, as the Watling-street leads directly over
-Shooters hill between London and Rochester, and seeing the whole
-distance is answerable to fact, we need be in no pain for finding
-out the intermediate station, _Noviomagus_: doubtless it was about
-Wellend or Crayford,[106] as Mr. Somner judges, where the respective
-distances on each side point it out: notwithstanding, as to matters
-of antiquity, we have nothing to say. So with good reason Dr. Plot
-settles _Pennocrucium_ at Stretton in Staffordshire, because it is upon
-this same Watling-street, and answers the distances, though no Roman
-antiquities are there discovered; and the like must we do of other
-places. No doubt there were two stations between London and Rochester,
-though only one mentioned in the Itinerary: Northfleet seems to be the
-other, where many antiquities are found. I heard much talk of an old
-town at Plumsted, nearer the Thames, and to which they say the river
-came up originally: if true, perhaps this was the _Noviomagus_, and
-the _Trinobantum_, or _Trenowydh_ of the Britons, i. e. the town of
-the _Novii_ or _Novantes_, of which their old writers make a din, and
-would affix it to London: they say there are much ruins there. East
-of Crayford, all along upon the heath, as well as on the other side
-from Shooters hill, the ridge of the Watling-street is very visible;
-but beyond Dartford the common road leaves it quite on the south side,
-which induced me to follow the Roman: it becomes a lane presently, and
-passes in a very strait line, for five or six miles, through little
-valleys, woods, and inclosures; and about that distance I lost both
-it and myself in a wood by Southfleet; which obliged me to endeavour
-again to recover the great road: by the quantity of ground I went for
-that purpose, I guess this is a branch of the main road directly to
-Maidstone, for the convenience of such as intended to go strait to
-_Lemanis_ by _Durolenum_. The soil from London to Dartford is gravel,
-but the highest ground has sand: beyond to Rochester it is chalk full
-of flints and gravel: the flints lie in _strata_, very black, and
-squeezed flat like mortar in the course of a wall; and above the chalk
-is pure sand.
-
-[Sidenote: +Durobrivis.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XXX. 2d Vol.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. VI.]
-
-The river Medway at Rochester is very broad and rapid, foaming most
-violently: there is a stately bridge built across it: below bridge lie
-about fifty of our biggest first rate men of war unrigged, such as
-the Royal Sovereign, Britannia, Barfleur, &c. The Roman city was very
-strong, being walled about and ditched:[107] near that angle below the
-bridge, incompassed by the river, is a large piece of Roman building
-of the wall, made of rubble-stone laid sloping side-ways, here and
-there Roman bricks: houses are built upon it, and it is broke through
-for a passage; in the inside much flint. Dr. Thorp has great numbers
-of antiquities found hereabouts. This city stands in an angle of the
-river: it seems to have been of a square form, the Watling-street
-running directly through it: most of the walls still remain, but
-repaired. The castle was built out of one angle by William the
-Conqueror, which together with the cathedral has altered the regular
-ground-plot of the city, as at Lincoln: the walls of the great tower
-now left are four yards thick. The body of the cathedral is of the
-original structure before the Conquest, repaired by bishop Gundulf an
-architect, who likewise built the castle: the great tower is now called
-Gundulf’s tower. The chalky cliff under the castle-wall next the river
-is a romantic sight: the rapidity of the river wastes it away; and then
-huge tracts of the wall fall down: in some places you see the bottom of
-the broad foundation, and which in others is carried down to the water.
-On the north side of the north-west tower of the church is Gundulf’s
-_effigies_.[108] The front of the church is of the old work, but a new
-window put in the middle. The eastern gate of the city was pulled down
-not long ago: I saw many of the stones distributed among the adjacent
-buildings, being of a Roman cut.
-
-[Sidenote: +Vaginacis.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XXXI. XXXII. XXXIII. XXXIV. 2d Vol.]
-
-We must now, according to the Itinerary, leave the Watling-street, and
-go to Maidstone. The road hither passes by that famous British monument
-called Kits-coty-house. It cannot be disputed but that Maidstone is the
-next Roman station. _Mædwæg_ I apprehend signifies the meadows upon
-the river _Vaga_, which are here beautiful: whether the Latin word be
-_Madviacis_, or _Vagniacis_, I see no difficulty in forming it from the
-British.[109] The archbishop of Canterbury had a palace here, founded
-by John Ufford, finished by Simon Islip: a college or hospital was
-erected by A. B. Boniface, and a chantry by Thomas Arundel, now the
-free-school. About 1720, they dug up several canoos, made of hollowed
-trees, in the marshes of the river Medway above Maidstone: one is used
-for a boat to this day. I saw, in the hands of Dr. Dodd, a British
-coin of _electrum_, found at Addington near Malling, anno 1720, in the
-foundation of a stone wall: on the concave side a British horse, rude
-enough; the convex was plain.
-
-[Illustration: 30·2ᵈ. _A Piece of the Roman Wall at Rochester 7. Oct.
- 1724._
-
- _Stukeley delin_ _Toms Sculp._]
-
-[Illustration: 6 Rochester _Castle 4 Oct. 1722._
-
- Dno J. ohi Elwill Barᵗᵗᵒ. dd. _W. Stukeley._]
-
-[Illustration: 31·2ᵈ. _A Prospect of Kits Coty:house Kent Oct: 15.
- 1722._
-
- _Illustrissimo_ Heneagio _Comiti Winchilsea Animi fortitudine &
- eruditione singulari plusquam titulis nobili, Antiquitatem hanc_ D.
- Wˢ. Stukeley. _E. Kirkall sculp._]
-
-[Illustration: 32·2ᵈ. Kits Coty house _15. Oct. 1722. The N. E.
- Prospect._
-
- _The View_ _The Groundplot_
-
- _Stukeley delin:_ _The lower_ Coty _house_ _E: Kirkall sculp:_]
-
-[Illustration: 33·2ᵈ. _A Prospect of the Country from_ Kits Coty
- house _15 Oct. 1722_.]
-
-[Illustration: 34·2ᵈ. _View of the Ruins of the Lower Coty house._ A.
- _The Upper Coty house._]
-
-[Illustration: 27 Dno. Samueli Lennard _Barr. ᵗᵒ Tabula Votiva_.
-
- _Stukeley delin._ _E. Kirkall sculp_
-
- _5 Oct. 1722. Prospect of the Remains of_ Feversham Abby _where K.
- Stephen was buried_.]
-
-[Sidenote: +Durolenum.+]
-
-From thence the Itinerary leads us to _Durolenum_. The learned Talbot
-first guessed it to be Charing; and to me he seems to be in the right.
-It is upon a spring of the river Len. The present name is derived from
-the British _Caer_, as they called all Roman towns in after-times:
-anciently it was wrote _Cering_ with a Saxon termination, intimating
-the meadows it stands upon. Roman antiquities are found all about, but
-nothing I have yet met withal, that particularly fixes the spot the
-Roman city stood upon. Near is a manor called Broughton; Chart[110]
-is the name of the hundred, from two little adjoining villages: but
-at this place the distances answer well, and the roads in many parts
-appear: that from hence to Canterbury passed by Chilham; so over the
-river Stour by Sharnford, which retains the British name of a causeway.
-The archbishops of Canterbury had a castellated palace at Charing,
-probably given them by some of the first Saxon kings, as a royal
-demesne of theirs: there are large ruins of it still left. Here was a
-chantry founded by Sir John Burley. All the ground upon the river Len
-at the bottom of the great ridge of hills is sand, sometimes exceeding
-white; between that and the bottom of the hills it is flinty: the hills
-themselves are pure chalk. All Kent consists of large tracts of ground
-gradually rising from the east to a western ridge steep that way, so
-succeeded by another of like manner; but any of these tracts are made
-up of little hills and short valleys, quite of a different nature from
-those on the west side of the island: and Mr. Camden has observed this
-before us, as to the northern part of the island, p. 533. _Britannia_.
-We may gather an idea of the natural reason of it from what we spoke at
-first, of the ground hardening upon the instant of the earth’s rotation.
-
-After we have made this excursion with Antoninus, to take in these
-two stations, which seems to have been done to conduct travellers the
-nearest way to the _portus Lemanis_, we return again to Rochester, that
-we may finish the progress of the Watling-street.
-
-[Sidenote: +Feversham.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XXVII.]
-
-[Sidenote: +Newington.+]
-
-[Sidenote: Ro. _town_.]
-
-From Rochester the Watling-street continues very strait to Canterbury,
-by Feversham, whither I went to visit the remains of the monastery
-founded by king Stephen, and where he was buried with his family. At
-present nothing left but two gate-houses, and they of mean structure:
-the hall was standing intire within this forty year; but now the whole
-monastery is level with the ground, and converted into orchards, so
-that I could not so much as guess at the place where the church was.
-They have a report still, that at the dissolution of abbeys they took
-up the coffin of lead wherein the king was buried, and sold it: as
-for his corpse, they threw it into the Thames. Here king Ethelstan
-enacted laws, anno 903. At Newington seems to have been another
-station: many Roman coins and antiquities have been found there. Vide
-large accounts thereof in Burton’s Itinerary, p. 181. and Casaubon’s
-translation of Antoninus Philos. Beyond Broughton, which seems to have
-been another,[111] you come to a very high hill, steep on the west. The
-Watling-street here first presents the tower of the cathedral in its
-line, and both together make a fine show:
-
- _Apparet rursum moles operosa viarum,
- Consurgit stratis agger ubique suis._
-
-[Sidenote: +Durovernum.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XCVI.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LIV.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XXV.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XXIV.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XXV.]
-
-Canterbury is deservedly famous for religious as well as Roman
-antiquity, being the place where christianity first made its entrance
-among our Saxon ancestors. Here are many remains of Roman buildings,
-many made of Roman materials in the Saxon times: many antiquities found
-in digging about the hop-grounds; your lordship has quantities of them.
-The city is strongly walled about, and many lunettes or towers at due
-intervals; a deep ditch close underneath, and a great rampart of earth
-within. The original ground-plot here, as in many other cities, is
-spoiled by churches built in the middle of streets. To the south is
-an old obscure gate, called Worth gate, partly walled up: it is under
-the castle. This is intirely a Roman work: the semi-circular arch is
-of Roman brick, beautifully turned; the piers of stone; the thickness
-of it is three Roman feet. I suppose this the original gate of the
-Roman city, and from hence went the road which presently divides itself
-into two: the one goes by Chilham to _Durolenum_, over the river at
-Sharnford, as we said; the other goes in a very strait line, by the
-name of Stone-street, to the port of _Lemanis_. The castle built here
-in William the Conqueror’s time, extending its limits beyond this gate,
-was the occasion of blocking it up; and so Winchup gate was built a
-little further eastward, to supply its use. The castle is much of the
-same form as that at Rochester, and the walls of the same thickness. A
-little further within the walls is a very high mount, called Dungeon
-hill: a ditch and high bank inclose the _area_ before it: it seems to
-have been part of the old castle. Opposite to it without the walls is a
-hill, seeming to have been raised by the Danes when they besieged the
-city. The top of Dungeon hill is equal to the top of the castle, and
-has a fine prospect over the city and country. The materials of the
-city-walls are chiefly flint. Next to this, where the Watling-street
-comes,[112] is Riding-gate, built by a mayor of the city, but evidently
-in the place of the Roman one; for there is part of the Roman arch,
-and the pier of one side, still visible, but much lower than the
-present gate: and in a yard close by is part of the arch of a postern,
-or foot-gate, by the side of it: these arches are of Roman brick,
-and there are in the wall here and there some more fragments of the
-Roman work. The draught of it I have given in the plate of the city
-ground-plot, 96. Hence the Watling-street passes directly to Dover,
-over Barham downs. Next to East-gate is another gate, opposite to
-what they call St. Ethelbert’s tower: this is the way to the port of
-_Rutupium_. Here is the famous monastery of St. Augustin, the first
-metropolitan, built, as they say, near the palace of the converted
-king Ethelbert: two gates remain next the city, and both very stately:
-perhaps one belonged to the palace, the other to the monastery, which
-doubtless as magnificent as richly endowed; and such its ruins
-demonstrate, and the great compass of ground it took up, incircled with
-a very high wall. Great vying was ever here between the religious of
-St. Austin and of Tho. à Becket, both very rich and contentious. At
-the west end of this church, as I conjecture, were two great towers:
-half of one is still remaining, called Ethelbert’s tower: all the whole
-stones and pillars about it are skinned off as far as they can reach;
-and every year a buttress, a side of an arch, or the like, passes _sub
-hasta_. There is part of the other standing, if it can be so said,
-that is only not fallen; I call it _muro torto_: it is a vast angular
-piece of the tower, about thirty foot high, which has been undermined
-by digging away a course at bottom, in order to be thrown down; but it
-happened only to disjoint itself from the foundation, and leaping, as
-it were, a little space, lodged itself in the ground in that inclining
-state, to the wonderment of the vulgar who do not discern the meaning
-of it, though the foundation it came from is sufficiently visible: thus
-happening to be equally poized, it is a sight somewhat dreadful, and
-forbids a too near approach on any side, with the apprehension of its
-falling that way. Under St. Ethelbert’s tower is the porch where St.
-Augustin and his six successors, as Bede tells us, were interred: the
-arched roof is left, but ready to fall: the pavement is gone, in the
-middle of which was an altar. The adjacent close is full of religious
-ruins and foundations, one great part turned into a stable near the
-almery: all over they are busy in pulling it up, to sell the stones;
-which generally pays the rent, and yet the tenants of such places
-thrive never the more. In one corner of this field are the walls of
-a chapel, said to have been a christian temple before St. Augustin’s
-time, and reconsecrated by him to St. Pancras: a great apple-tree and
-some plum-trees now grow in it: the lower part of it is really old, and
-mostly made of Roman brick, and thicker walls than the superstructure:
-there is an old Roman arch on the south side toward to altar, the top
-of it about as high as one’s nose; so that the ground has been much
-raised: the present east window is a pointed arch, though made of Roman
-brick, later than St. Austin’s time: near it a little room, said to
-have been king Ethelbert’s pagan chapel: however it be, both these and
-the wall adjoining are mostly built of Roman brick: the breadth of the
-mortar is rather more than the brick, and full of pebbles; but the mark
-of the devil’s claws, there observed by the vulgar, is fantastical.
-The garden and orchard adjoining seem to lie in their ancient form:
-there is a large square mount close by the wall, which it equals in
-height, and gives a prospect into the fields. Your lordship has a
-huge water-pipe dug up among many other antiquities in a Roman bath
-discovered at Canterbury: it is five inches and a half diameter at the
-smaller end, seventeen long, seven in diameter at the broad end: they
-were fastened into one another with strong terrace cement. The great
-number of other antiquities of all sorts, found at and about this city,
-make part of your fine collection.
-
-[Illustration: 96 DVROVERNVM. _5 Oct. 1722_
-
- _Stukeley delin_ Collegæ charissimo Johi Gray M. D. Civitatē svā
- _dd. W. Stukeley._ _I. Harris sculp_]
-
-[Illustration: 24 _The Ruins of Sᵗ. Augustins Church in the Porch of
- which the English Apostle was bury’d, now called Ethelberts tower at
- Canterbury Oct. 6. 1722._
-
- _Dedicated to her Grace the Dutchess of Ancaster._
-
- _Stukeley del._ _I.Vᵈᵉʳ. Gucht Sculp._]
-
-[Illustration: 25 _A View in Sᵗ Austins Monastery Canterbury_
-
- _Sᵗ Gregorys Chappel_
-
- _The Heathen chappel of Ethelbert. 6 Oct. 1722_
-
- _Stukeley delin_ _Harris sculp_]
-
-Eastward of this, and farther out of the city, is the church of
-St. Martin, said to be the christian place of devotion, where king
-Ethelbert’s queen used to go, and St. Austin’s first see: it is built,
-for the most part, of Roman brick: in the middle is a very large
-old-fashioned font, supposed that where the king was baptised. North
-of the city is a very small remnant of St. Gregory’s chapel, founded
-probably by Austin to the honour of his patron.
-
-The cathedral of Canterbury is very stately, but neither in length,
-breadth, nor height, especially in front, equal to Lincoln, in my
-judgement: it is intirely vaulted with stone, and of a very pretty
-model of building, but much too high for its breadth, as all Gothic
-buildings were. I believe they got this ill taste from building upon
-the old foundations, the ancient churches being much narrower and lower
-than in the succeeding times: when greater riches flowed in upon them,
-they carried their walls and roofs to an unseemly height. The place
-where Thomas à Becket’s shrine stood, is sufficiently known by the mark
-of the devoted knees quite around it, which have left deep impressions
-in the hard coarse marble. The Black Prince has a noble monument of
-brass: that of Henry IV. is a good tomb, and there is a pretty chapel
-hard by, to say mass for him. There is an old picture of arch-bishop
-Becket’s martyrdom, as called; and upon the wall an old painting of the
-siege of Jerusalem, in our old habits. Here are several monuments of
-the bishops. The metropolitan chair is of grey marble, standing behind
-the high altar: the cloysters are pretty good, and a very large chapel
-near them, called Sermon-house, wainscotted with Irish oak. The reason
-of the ancient name of this British city seems intimated in this verse
-of Virgil,
-
- _Divinosque lacus & averna sonantia silvis._ Æn. iii.
-
-The poor derivation of the commentators thereon ought to be referred to
-Tuscan original, to which our Celtic is a-kin.
-
-[Sidenote: +Rutupiæ.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XXXV. 2d Vol.]
-
-Leaving Canterbury,[113] I journeyed to find out _Rutupiæ_. At Wingham
-I saw a very large barrow, of Celtic make, by the road side, called
-the Mount: upon enquiry I found there were several more in the parish,
-and that a lane here is called Port-lane; doubtless the Roman road,
-for here the common road goes more southward. The Roman city and port
-without peradventure was the place now called Stonar, or _Stanar_,
-as they pronounce it, from the stony foundations I chuse to think;
-over-against Sandwich, or rather half a mile lower upon the river
-coming from Canterbury, and almost incompassed by it. This river at
-first discharged itself into the sea by Ebbesflete, north of the Roman
-city, till the sand, pouring so directly upon it, obliged the stream
-to slide under the cliff by Richborough castle, and so by Sandwich:
-then, coming in obliquely by the weight of its waters, it maintains
-its passage. I conceit the etymology of _Rhutupium_, about which the
-learned contend much, is to be sought for in this _Ebbesflete_; and
-that this water was originally called _Ube_, or _Tyvi_: _rhyd tyf_ or
-_tyvi_, is the passage over it: the Saxons called it _Reptacester_, a
-contraction only from _Rhutupicester_: and so our _Ebbe_ at present
-came from them; _Ruptimuth_ anciently. Hence you see far into the isle
-of Thanet and Ramsgate cliff, named from the Romans, thrusting its
-chalky promontory into the sea. This was the chief port for the Roman
-navy.[114] At present there is only a farm-house or two, standing on
-an elevation in the marshes: they informed me that here had been a
-great city, and that they can discover all the streets when the corn
-is on the ground; and those streets are nothing but pure gravel laid
-very deep: innumerable stones and foundations have been dug up, but now
-mostly evacuated; and no doubt Sandwich was built out of it. The river
-runs close by it, with difficulty preserving its current to the sea;
-but no doubt originally it was an open beach, or port: perhaps the city
-itself was an island. The old mouth of the river is now filled up by
-the astonishing quantity of small pebbles thrown into this bay by the
-roll of the ocean: you see here a hundred acres of this flat
-ground covered over with them six or seven foot deep, and looking blue
-like the water. I fancied the people that lived here, in like danger
-with those that travel the sandy deserts of Africa, or Arabia. Here
-are two elevations, where they say two churches stood: upon one, where
-an elder-tree grows, much rubble and stone is left, but no part of any
-building; nor is it easy to distinguish what it was originally.
-
-[Illustration: 35·2ᵈ. View of Portus Rutupiæ from Sandwich. _7.
-Oct. 1722._
-
- _South West view of_ Richborough Castle.
-
- _Stukeley delin:_ _E. Kirkall sculp:_]
-
-[Illustration: 97 Richborow _Castle of the Romans 7 Oct. 1722_.
- Auspiciis Doctissimi D. Tancred Robinson M. D. &c.
-
- _Stukeley delin:_]
-
-[Illustration: 36·2ᵈ. _The Remains of the_ Castrensian Amphitheater
- _at Richborough Castle. Oct. 7. 1724._
-
-_Stukeley. delin:_ _E. Kirkall. Sculp:_]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XCVII.]
-
-[Sidenote: Amphitheatre]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XXXVI. 2d Vol.]
-
-Richborough castle, as now called, was the fort as it were to this
-city, and station of the garrison, which was to watch and defend the
-port and sea-coast hereabout; or rather one of those castles built upon
-the _littus Saxonicum_, in the time of Theodosius: it is a mile off
-Stanar and Sandwich, situate upon the highest elevation near hand, and
-being the only small part of a bold shore in all this bay: the river
-runs at the foot of it,
-
- ———— _arvaque & urbem
- Littore diductam angusto interluit æstu._ +Virg.+ Æn. iii.
-
-It is a most noble remnant of Roman antiquity, where in later times of
-their empire the _Legio_ II. _Aug._ was quartered: the walls on three
-sides are pretty intire, and in some places still about twenty-five or
-thirty foot high, without any ditch: the side next the sea being upon
-a kind of cliff, the top of the wall is but level with the ground:
-beside, at the east angle the wall descends to another slope just upon
-the river, which seems to have been in the nature of an outwork, or
-gradual ascent into the castle: the ground on the inside is pretty much
-raised. In the middle of the north-east side there is a square work
-jutting out from the wall, which seems to have been an oblique[115]
-gate to enter at, for those that came from the water side; and it
-is not unlikely that gap on the north-west side was another gate:
-it was a square CV. paces one way, CL. the other; according to the
-Roman method of making camps, a third part longer than their breadth.
-There is a foundation within, which has caused many words among the
-Kentish antiquaries; seems to have been a _Pharos_, or lodging for the
-commanding officer, a _prætorium_: there are foundations of several
-apartments, the walls monstrously thick and strong. It is manifest
-to any one that seriously contemplates the ruins of the walls in
-divers places, that this castle was destroyed by great violence and
-industriously; I guess, by the Saxons immediately after the Romans left
-the island, when they could more boldly make descénts upon the coast:
-the reason why, is evident from the intent of these castles: upon the
-eastern corner, especially, great piles of wall lie one upon another
-like rocks: in other places cavities are hewn out of its thickness,
-that would make good lodging-rooms: the manner of the composition of
-the walls is seven courses of small hewn stone, which take up four
-Roman feet: then two courses of Roman brick, which are white, like
-the brick in the isle of Ely. I observe all the brick about Sandwich
-to be of the same colour, made of whitish clay. The walls are twelve
-foot thick: the inward body thereof is made of flint and excessive
-hard mortar. Sandwich bears directly south. Dr. Holland talks of a
-carved head over one of the gates; but I could find no such thing now.
-In the way thither, upon an eminence is the carcass of a castrensian
-amphitheatre made of turf; I suppose, for the exercise and diversion
-of the garrison: the soil of it is gravel and sand, and has been long
-ploughed over, that we need not wonder it is so level. There are three
-Roman _tumuli_ before Sandwich west gate; one a windmill stands on: it
-is not easy to assign which Contentus was buried under:
-
- _Contentum tellus quem Rutupina tegit._ +Auson.+
-
-South of Sandwich, as we go along upon the sea-shore, are six large
-and broad Celtic _tumuli_, equidistant: the second from the town has
-been dug away, to raise a little fort upon the road: they all stand in
-a line east and west.[116] This flat coast is fenced against the ocean
-by the sand-downs, which in Lincolnshire we call _meals_: but within
-the memory of man, as they told me, the sea has commenced a new method
-of guarding against its own violence, by covering the shore, for a
-great depth and height, with the pebbles afore mentioned; which is an
-odd mutation in nature; and it is observable that these pebbles come
-from the south. I rode from Sandwich as far as Hithe, upon the brink
-of the shore or cliff, in sight of France all the way; and nothing
-could be more entertaining in this autumnal season, when the weather
-is generally clear, serene and calm. Much sea _tithymal_ grows here,
-and a very pretty plant, _papaver cornutum flore luteo_, rock samphire
-feeding upon _petroleum_, a most excellent pickle, and many more.[117]
-The murmur of the ocean has a noble solemnity in it, as Homer says,
-when latinised,
-
- _Eructante salo raucam dant littora vocem._
-
-More copiously expressed in Virgil,
-
- _Et gemitum ingentem pelagi, pulsataque saxa,
- Audimus longe, fractasque ad littora voces.
- Exsultantque vada atque æstu miscentur arenæ._ Æn. iii.
-
-which is an exact idea of this place. By listening attentively I
-observed this noise of the ocean is by fits, at short but equal
-intervals; which I believe gave occasion to that fancy of the ancients,
-that every tenth wave was the largest; of which Ovid has a distich.
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XXXVII. 2nd Vol.]
-
-Sandown castle is composed of four lunettes of very thick arched
-work of stone, with many port-holes for great guns: in the middle
-is a great round tower, with a cistern at top; underneath an arched
-cavern, bomb-proof: a foss incompasses the whole, to which there is
-a passage over a draw-bridge. Deal castle and Walmer castle are of
-the same nature, all built by Harry VIII. to guard this naked level
-coast: moreover, lines are drawn along between castle and castle, and
-at proper intervals round bastions with a ditch and parapet of earth,
-where cannon may be planted, as in the infancy of fortification. These
-are what Camden calls _Rome’s works_, and fancies to be remnants of
-Cæsar’s ship-camp: the neighbours with as little truth affirm they were
-thrown up by Oliver Cromwell, for reduction of these castles:
-one is close by the north side of Deal, and two between Deal castle
-and Walmer castle. At Walmer castle the cliff begins for about half a
-mile southward with a gentle rise to a hill, whereon is a _tumulus_:
-then the shore is plain again in a valley till you come to Kings-wold,
-which is half a mile’s space. Between Walmer castle and Deal I take to
-be the spot where Cæsar landed in his first expedition, because it is
-the first place where the shore can be ascended north of Dover, and
-exactly answers his assigned distance of eight miles: probably in his
-second expedition, when he came with many more ships, and had a perfect
-knowledge of the country, he went a little farther in the downs,
-whereabouts now is Deal, a town lately sprung up from the mariners. As
-for his sea-camps, it is vain to expect a sight of them; they are many
-ages since absorpt by the ocean, which has so long been exercising its
-power, and wasting the land away. Even since Harry the VIIIth’s time
-it has carried off the sea-ward _esplanades_ of the three castles, and
-one half of two of the three circular forts. Indeed, of late years,
-the providential ejectment of those pebbles has put a stop to it in
-some measure; and it is amazing to see how it by degrees fills up these
-fosses and trenches, and sometimes flies over the banks a good way up
-into the land, with a power well expressed by the poet,
-
- _Aut vaga cum Tethys Rutupinaque littora fervent._ +Lucan.+ vi.
-
-But of this affair of Cæsar’s I reserve to myself another opportunity
-of speaking, when I shall expresly treat of his expedition hither. At
-Deal castle is a very good well, though close by the sea.
-
-[Illustration: 37·2ᵈ. _A Prospect towards Deal from yᵉ Barrow South of
- Walmer Castle._
-
- _Stukeley delin._ _Toms. Sculp._]
-
-[Illustration: 38·2ᵈ. _The Appeareance of the Roman_ DVBRIS
-
- _Stukeley delin._ _Toms Sculp._]
-
-Now my journey lay intirely upon the edge of the cliffs, whose
-precipicious height, with the noble prospect at sea, and most awful
-roaring of the waves, filled the mind with a sense of Nature’s majesty.
-About St. Margaret’s on cliff, near the light-houses, I saw in two
-places a great number of little _tumuli_, of unequal bulk, close by
-one another; and the like I found frequently about Barham downs,
-and between Hardres[118] and Chilham, and other places. I know not
-that such have ever been taken notice of: the people say they were
-burying-places of the Danes; probably digging into them might give us
-some satisfaction. I believe them Celtic, because I saw many sorts of
-them, and such as appear on Salisbury plain.
-
-[Sidenote: +Dubris Portus.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XXXVIII. 2nd Vol.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XXXIX. XL. 2d Vol.]
-
-Dover is a most romantic situation: it is a great valley, and the only
-one about this coast where water is admitted inwards of the cliff, here
-very high; and a running brook discharges itself into the sea:[119]
-the water formerly came a good way higher up, and made a large port;
-and they have found anchors above the town. The Roman city of _Dubris_
-was to the south of the river: the Watling-street enters it at Bigin
-gate, coming very strait from Canterbury over Barham down, where it
-is very perfect:[120] butting directly upon the great tower of the
-cathedral, it bears a little more northerly than north-west. This city
-was an oblong square, and some of the walls are left: the churches
-are of a very antique make: that of St. Martin is collegiate, founded
-by Wightred king of Kent; it is a venerable ruin: the east end seems
-to have terminated in three semi-circular works: it was built in form
-of a cross, as to its main body. Much remains of the priory, now a
-farm-house. The _maison dieu_ over-against it is become a store-house:
-here the knights Hospitallers or Templars lodged, coming into, or going
-out of, the kingdom. The piers that form the haven, or large bason, are
-costly and great works: above is a fort with four bastions of modern
-date. The broad beach which lies at the mouth of this great valley, and
-was the harbour in Cæsar’s time, is very delightful: it is no little
-part of the diversion, in walking there, to observe the odd produce
-of the ocean thrown up under your feet, and the sea-plants that grow
-there; the _umbelli_, _star-fishes_, many curious fossils and shells;
-the _eringo_, _sea-lungs_, _sea-weed_, or _ood_ as called, &c. One long
-street here is named Snare-gate, from the most tremendous rocks of
-chalk hanging directly over the houses; as Cnarsborough in Yorkshire,
-says Mr. Camden, p. 715.
-
-[Sidenote: +Dover Castle.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XLVIII.]
-
-[Sidenote: _Roman._ +Pharos.+]
-
-The castle is the strongest place in the world, of old fortification;
-it takes up thirty acres of ground: it is an amazing _congeries_ of
-walls, ditches, arches, embattlements, mounts, and all imaginable
-contrivances to render it impregnable after the old mode: but with
-highest regret I beheld this most noble and memorable fortress, once
-thought the key of Britain, and that has divers times had the honour to
-save the kingdom from conquest and slavery, now become a common prey
-to the people that belong to it: in the late wars with France they
-kept 1500 prisoners in the great castle; but within this twelvemonth
-they have carried away the timbers and floors, disabling it even for
-that use. Thus much I think out of gratitude is its due; let it stand
-a monument of antiquity, or sink slowly by its own ruin. The brass gun
-called Queen Elizabeth’s Pocket-pistol is a great curiosity, twenty-two
-foot long: it requires fifteen pound of powder, and carries a ball
-seven miles (as the gunner told me;) it is excellently well wrought. I
-saw two very old keys, and a brass horn, which seem to be the ensigns
-of authority belonging to the constable of the castle, or lord warden
-of the cinque ports. One part of the fortifications consists of a large
-circular work, in which stands the old church, said to have been built
-by Lucius, an ancient king of the Britons, and first christian. Bishop
-Stillingfleet thinks he is no romantic person, but reigned in Kent and
-Sussex: however that be, I believe this church is as ancient as the
-time assigned him. There is not much doubt to be made, that upon this
-hill was a _castrum_ of the Romans, like that at Richborough, to guard
-this haven. It is somewhat surprizing that our Saxon ancestors should
-take great pains to demolish Roman works, though they wanted such in
-the same places, and were forced to build them again. I look upon it
-as an argument that they had no thoughts of conquering the island
-at first, and destroyed these bulwarks, that such might not hinder
-their depredations; but espying the nakedness of the land, thoroughly
-evacuated of its youth and men of arms by the Romans, they found a
-conquest practicable: then were they obliged to repair these
-castles. The church we are speaking of was built, in the first times
-of christianity, out of part of the Roman ruins, whence there are huge
-quantities of Roman bricks laid into the work: the arches are intirely
-turned with them; the corners and many parts, both within and without,
-are built up therewith; and the remainder is of stone originally cut
-by the Romans: it is in form of a cross, and has a square tower in
-the middle. I have represented the drawing of it in plate 48. The
-stone windows of this church are of later date than the building; they
-have been put in long since: but the greatest curiosity here is the
-_Pharos_, or Roman watch-tower, standing at the west end of the church:
-notwithstanding it is so much disfigured by new daubing with mortar,
-casing and mending, I discovered its primary intention the first minute
-I saw it; and sent the three prints of it, which I here present the
-reader, to monsieur Montfaucon, at the instances of my most honoured
-lord, the archbishop of Canterbury. I was in hopes they would have been
-more useful to that celebrated author; for therein at least he might
-have found, that the building which he first took for a _Pharos_, and
-whereof he gives us four views, is only the tower of the church we were
-talking of. The description of this curious work, which I believe the
-most perfect of any left, in short is thus.
-
-[Illustration: 39·2ᵈ. The Prospect of DOVER _9 Oct. 1724_.
-
- _Stukeley delin._ _Toms sculp._]
-
-[Illustration: 40·2ᵈ. _The Appearance of Dover at the time of Cæsar’s
- Landing._
-
- _Stukeley delin._ _Toms sculp._]
-
-[Illustration: 48 ROMANO-SAXONIC.
-
- _The Old Church & Roman Pharos in Dover Castle. 8. Oct. 1722._
-
- _Sᵗ. Martins Church near Canterbury where K. Ethelberts Queen us’d
- to goe to Christian Service._
-
- Erudito viro et Amicissimo Johi Hardy de Nottingham.
-
- _Tabulam hanc vovet W. Stukeley_
-
- _Stukeley delin._ _I. Harris Sculp_]
-
-[Illustration: 47 _The_ Ichnography & Section of the +Roman Pharos+
- _in_ +Dover+ _Castle_.
-
- Tabulam Architectonicam Dno. Jacobo Thornhil-Equiti, ad Rem
- Pictoriam Servienti
-
- Regio. D.D. _Wˢ. Stukeley._
-
- _Stukeley del._ _I.Vᵈᵉʳ. Gucht Sculp._]
-
-[Illustration: 46 +The Roman Pharos in Dover Castle+ 8 Oct. 1722.
-
- _Quæ olim_ Romanis _navigantibus facem præbuit_
- Pharon _in Castro Dubriensi_ Rogᵒ. Gale Arm.
- _consecratum posuit_ Wˢ. Stukeley 1722.
-
- _Stukeley delin._ _E Kirkall sculp._]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XLVII.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XLVI.]
-
-In the 47th plate we have shown the ground-plot upon which it is
-formed, and a section of the work; whence we may readily observe that
-the design is simple, but admirably contrived for its use and purpose:
-the base is octagonal without, within a square; but the sides of the
-square and octagon are equal, viz. fifteen Roman feet, which reduces
-the wall to the thickness of ten feet. In this manner it was carried
-up to the top, which was much higher than at present; but it retires
-inward continually from all sides, with much the same proportion as an
-Egyptian _obelus_. Upon four of these sides there are windows narrow,
-handsomely turned with a semi-circular arch of Roman brick six foot
-high, so that the outside of it appears as in our 46th plate. The
-door to it is on the east side, about six foot wide, very well turned
-over head, with an arch made of a course of Roman brick and stone
-alternately, fourteen foot high. All the stones of this work are of
-a narrow scantling; and the manner of the composure, throughout, is
-perfectly the same with that lately described at Richborough castle:
-there are first two courses of this brick, which is level with the
-bottom of the windows; then seven courses of hewn stone, which mount up
-to the top of the windows; then two courses of brick, seven of stone
-alternately, to the top; every window by this means reaching to a stage
-or story. There are five of these stages left: the windows are visible
-enough to a discerning eye, though some be stopt up, others covered
-over, others have modern church-like windows of stone put in. I suppose
-the inside was intirely filled up with a stair-case: the height of what
-is left is forty foot; I believe there was twenty foot more originally;
-and the whole number of windows on a side was eight. This building was
-made use of as a steeple, and had a pleasant ring of bells in it, which
-Sir George Rook procured to be carried away to Portsmouth. Since then
-the office of the ordnance, under pretext of savingness, have taken
-away the lead that covered it, and left this rare piece of art and
-masonry to struggle with the sea, air and weather. Mr. Degg gave me
-a coin of Dioclesian, found here. The Erpinghams arms are patched up
-against one side of the _Pharos_, being two bars and a canton; so that
-I suppose it was repaired in Henry the Fifth’s time, lord Erpingham
-then warden of Dover castle. In the Roman castle here the Tungrican
-soldiers had their station. I have heard there is another such _Pharos_
-at St. Andrew’s in Scotland.[121]
-
-On the other high cliff opposite to this, beyond the town, has been
-another _Pharos_: some part of the bottom part of it is still left,
-called The Devil’s Drop, from the strength of the mortar: others call
-it Bredonstone. Here the new constable of the castle is sworn. If we
-consider the ancient state of Dover, we must imagine that the little
-river ran directly into the sea, and left a harbour close to the walls
-of the town; but in process of time, as the sea threw up that vast
-beach which lies between the town and it, the river was forced by an
-oblique passage to creep along the shore under the southern cliff,
-and there vent itself where now is the harbour. This is what Nature
-practises in the microcosm in innumerable instances, as the passage
-of the gall and pancreatic juice into the intestines, in the duct of
-the urine from the ureters into the bladder, of the chyle into the
-torrent of the blood, insinuating themselves for some space between
-the membranes. And this caution may be of service in forming harbours;
-as in that costly work of the French king’s before Dunkirk, where two
-banks or piers projected for half a mile through the sands directly,
-which ought rather to have gone downwards a little towards the fall of
-the tide. The cliffs here are of solid chalk to the very bottom, full
-of the blackest flints; and those at Calais seem perfectly like them;
-and no doubt a long vein of chalk is continued from one to the other
-under the sea, and perhaps through many countries: but that these two
-places were ever contiguous, or joined by an isthmus, is chimerical.
-
-Though the mariners have much mathematics on board, and in all their
-tackle and machinery, yet here I had occasion of observing a gross
-error, that has not been thought on, in the shape of their oars; where
-the extremity of that fan-like part, which opposes the water in rowing,
-is broadest. Now this is quite contrary to Nature’s method, who is the
-best geometrician in like cases: in the shape of a single feather,
-or in the wings of birds, the extremity is always pointed, and the
-broadest part is nearest the joint where the power lies, analogous
-to the _fulcrum_ of leavers; therefore is drawn off to a narrower
-scantling, as the part recedes from it, and the effect of the moving
-force: thus it is even in the wings of butterflies, and all other
-insects, as well as birds; and so in the water-beetles that row with
-oars. Though the broad part resists the water more as farther distant
-from the _fulcrum_, yet it requires more proportionable strength; and
-in my judgment, therefore, oars ought to be made quite the contrary
-way, and drawn off into a point, the broadest part nearest the hand;
-and I doubt not but equal strength will then out-row the other,
-_cæteris paribus_.[122]
-
-Beyond Dover southward the cliff is exceedingly high to Folkstone.
-In the road two great Roman barrows, which will be eaten away in a
-few years by the sea. Here this larger track of cliff ends, as to the
-ocean, and slaunts off westward towards Wye in a long ledge very steep
-all the way to the west. The whole county of Kent consists of three
-or four of these parcels, lying parallel, and running nearly north
-and south: they rise gently from the east as a reclining plain, and
-then end suddenly on the western side with a quick descent: at bottom
-begins another such plain, and it ends in like manner after it has
-gone its proper distance, to be alike succeeded, as we said before.
-Beyond this we are upon, southward is a lesser ledge of high ground
-sandy and rocky, but good land, especially in the valleys, and full
-of wood. This is terminated by Romney marsh, such another country as
-our Lincolnshire Holland. To the right of us is Eleham, seated in a
-pleasant concavity: there has been a religious house. Upon one end of
-our upper chalk-hills, near Folkstone, is a camp called Castle hill.
-
-[Illustration: 98 View of Folkston——+Lapis TITVLI+.
-
- _Stukeley d, & Nobilissimo Comiti
- Winchilsea d. d_.]
-
-[Sidenote: +Lapis Tituli.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XCVIII.]
-
-Now descending, Folkstone[123] offers itself, still standing on a
-cliff, but not so high as the former, and of a rocky composure, the
-other being chalk: it was anciently called _Flostane_, a lesser rock,
-or cliff of stone; so that it probably was the _lapis tituli_ of the
-Romans. Here is a copious spring runs through the town. Near the
-church, upon the sea side, is a square plain, like that I observed at
-Burgh in Lincolnshire, and was of the same use. I saw two pieces of old
-wall hanging over the terrible cliff, seemingly of Roman work: here are
-some old guns, one of iron of a very odd cast, no doubt as old as Henry
-the Eighth’s time. Many Roman coins have been found here. A nunnery was
-built by Eanswide, a religious daughter of Eadbald king of Kent.
-
-I passed by Sandgate castle, another of those built by Henry VIII.
-in a little valley where the shore is plain: then we enter upon the
-beach. Here are many springs which come down from the higher ground,
-and sink immediately into this beach, rendering it a little boggy: this
-I thought very odd. You ride through a wood of sea-poppy, which is a
-fine variety in nature, casting all the numerous seeds into a long
-pod, instead of the common globular head: the leaves look hoary, like
-sea-ragwort, and are finely crisped; the flowers of a most delicate
-yellow, taken notice of by the poet,
-
- _Ore floridulo nitens
- Alba parthenice velut
- Luteumve papaver._ +Catull.+
-
-[Sidenote: +Hythe.+]
-
-Hythe stands on the edge of this lesser ridge, but the marsh has
-intercepted it from the sea. They talk much of their charnel-house full
-of human bones, said to have been the massacred Danes; but I thought it
-not worth going to see, nor believed their report of it. They say this
-has been a great city, and reached as far as West Hythe, where is an
-old ruinous chapel: they mean undoubtedly the city of _Lemanis_. Here
-were two hospitals, St. Bartholomew’s, and St. Leonard’s.
-
-I visited Saltwood castle, in hopes to find somewhat Roman, as is
-reported: it is a very strong seat of the archbishop’s: the outer wall
-has towers and battlements, and a deep ditch: within, and on one side,
-stands the main body of the place: two great and high towers at the
-gate of this, over which are the founder’s arms, archbishop Courtney,
-in two escutcheons; the first impaled with those of the see; the other
-plain, a label over three plates. This inner work has a stronger and
-higher wall, with a broad embattled parapet at top: within is a court,
-but the lodgings are all demolished: the floor of the ruinous chapel is
-strongly vaulted: in the middle of the court is a large square well,
-which is the only thing I saw that looked like Roman. It is said that
-hereabouts anchors are dug up; which, if true, is not owing to the
-sea’s coming so high, as the vulgar think, for that is impossible; but
-to an iron forge of the Romans, conveniently placed, where so much wood
-grows, so near the sea, and so many ports. They say too that Roman
-coins are found at Newington, not far off here.
-
-[Sidenote: +Lemanis+ Portus.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XCIX.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LVIII.]
-
-A little way further, at the end of the Stane-street,[124] the Roman
-road from Canterbury; and at a proper distance from thence is the port
-of _Lemanis_. I am surprized that some Kentish antiquaries should,
-by pretended corrections of the Itinerary, send it farther off to
-the southern coasts. As soon as I came to Limne church, looking
-from the brow of the hill to the subjacent marshes, I descried the
-tattered Roman walls, situate on this southern decline, almost at
-the bottom. One would imagine the name came from the _Stone-street_;
-for such it literally signifies, _via lapidea_: this is a solid rock
-of stone laid out in a strait line between here and Canterbury. Thus
-in Yorkshire another Roman road is called _Leming-lane_, from its
-stony composure. _Lhe_ signifies a way in British; _maen_, a stone.
-Its present appellation of _Studfal_ castle gives occasion to some
-uncouth etymologies: without any difficulty I think it derived from
-_stæd-weall_, the sea-shore, in Saxon; so that it signifies no more
-than _castrum littoreum_. This fine remnant of Roman work, and which
-was the garrison of the Turnacensian band, hangs as it were upon the
-side of the hill; for it is pretty steep in descent: the walls include
-about twelve acres of ground, in form somewhat squarish, without any
-ditch: a pretty brook, arising from the rock west of the church, runs
-for some space on the east side of the wall; then passes through it,
-and so along its lowermost edge by the farm-house at bottom. The
-composition of the wall is similar to that of Richborough; but instead
-of hewn stone and regular courses, as there, the interval between
-the three layers of Roman brick is made of rag-stone: the brick too
-is of the same whitish kind, but remarkably thin. I suppose the clay
-shrank much in burning. This interval of stone is four feet of Roman
-standard: the walls are twelve foot thick, and have some round holes at
-equal spaces, that run quite through, as we observed at _Sorbiodunum_
-and _Verolanium_ perhaps to let the air in for drying the wall, being
-of so great a thickness. Here are several of the circular, or rather
-elliptic buttments, as thick as the wall, like those at the castle of
-_Garionenum_, near Yarmouth in Norfolk, in plate 58. which my worthy
-and learned friend Mr. Hare gave me from his own mensuration. It is a
-piece of masonry, I must own, unaccountable to me: they are like round
-towers or bastions, but solid; and some scarce join to the wall at the
-sides, but go quite through to the inside. The circuit of this wall is
-manifest enough on three sides, but that southward is levelled to the
-ground: every where else, where not standing, it lies sideways, flat,
-close by, in prodigious parcels; or where standing, cracked through the
-whole solid thickness, as if Time was in a merry humour, and ruined it
-in sport: but I believe it is the effect of design and much labour, as
-I said of Richborough: probably the Saxons or Danes thus dismantled
-it, to render it useless against their incursions. Where this wall is
-standing, it is ten foot high or more, made with excellent cement: on
-the eastern side is such another gate, formed by the return of the
-wall, as at the place last mentioned. Geo. Hunt, an old man, living in
-the farm-house, told me he has found coins here: he says, once
-the sea-bank broke, and his house with all the adjacent marshes was
-floated: for the level of the ocean is higher than this place; but it
-has fenced itself out by raising the ground continually near the shore,
-as it does in other like marshes. Whether the sea reached this lower
-wall, even in the time of the Romans, I cannot determine; for I do not
-believe this was the very port, but the castle belonging to it: that, I
-rather think, was somewhat more eastward, about West Hithe; and there,
-the town that belonged to it: for they find old foundations frequently
-under the side of the hill, laid in strong terrace mortar. The rev. Mr.
-Bagnal, minister of the place, informs me, that the field, of about
-sixteen acres of ground, adjoining to the church-yard of Limne, is to
-this day called the Northern town: nor do they know that it ever had
-any other name; which intimates that the Roman town was thereabouts,
-lying upon the slope of the hill, as the castle does, and to the east
-of it. This port is now called Ship-way, where the _limenarcha_, or
-lord warden of the cinque ports, was anciently sworn; where their
-courts were kept, and all the pleas relating to these ports: since the
-decay thereof, that ceremony is transferred to Dover. This Ship-way
-too denominates the _lathe_, or division of the country. Leland says,
-the people of Limne had an horn and mace, remaining ensigns of their
-authority.
-
-Thus have we conducted our journey, for the space of 500 miles, all
-upon Roman roads, to these three famous ports on the eastern shore,
-where commonly the great Roman emperors and generals landed from the
-continent; and in which we have run over such notices as occurred to us
-in thirty-five Roman stations, many camps, and other things of highest
-antiquity. The season of the year for expeditions being far spent, it
-is time to release your lordship’s patience, and retire into harbour,
-concluding with the great Roman wit, in his poetical voyage,
-
- _Lemanis longæ finis chartæque, viæque._
-
- 10 Octob. 1722.
-
-[Illustration: 99 LEMANIS Portus _9 Oct. 1722_.
-
- _Dnᵒ. Hans Sloan Barrᵗᵗᵒ._ +M.D.+ _Tabulam d.d. W Stukeley._
-
- _Stukeley Delin_]
-
-[Illustration: 58 GARIONENVM
-
- Borough Castle
-
- _3. Miles S.W. from Great-Yarmouth contains abᵗ 5. acres_
-
- _Statio fuit hæc Præpositi Equitum Stablesianorum sub comite
- Limitis Saxonici._
-
- Henrico Hare Armᵒ. GARIONENVM sua manu dimensum consecrat
-
- _W. Stukeley._]
-
-
-
-
- ITER DUMNONIENSE. VI.
-
- _Ipse locis capitur patriis & singula lætus
- Exquiritque, auditque virûm monumenta priorum._ +Virg.+
-
-
- _To my Lord_ PEMBROKE.
-
-I have sometimes in travelling been apt, within my own mind, to make a
-comparison between the excellence of the study of Philosophy, and that
-commonly called Antiquity, that is, ancient history. The beauties and
-the advantage of natural inquiries I cannot but be highly sensible of;
-yet I must needs give the preference to the latter, as it more nearly
-concerns the rational part of the creation, for whom the whole was
-made: it is a comment upon the wonderful volumes of divine wisdom, and
-the conduct of providence in the management of its supreme workmanship.
-God has given us indeed a large manuscript of his power, and other
-adorable attributes, in his wide-extended products, the furniture of
-the world; but in man, a more correct epitome of himself; a delegated
-immaterial particle of his spirituality, a self-moving principle of
-free agency, from the very fountain of all existence. As he is the
-great master-wheel and _primum movens_; so we are the subordinate
-executors of his mighty purposes, by his direction and superintendence
-carrying on the regular government and unseen operations thereof.
-Whoever declaims against this, ought to be looked upon as one of a
-poor, narrow way of thinking, and who does not deserve so much as that
-noble faculty of the soul, reminiscence or memory, which is the same
-to a single man, as ancient history is to the whole community: such a
-one no more claims the name of a scholar, than he that knows but the
-letters of the Alphabet, or whose study consists only in Gazettes. It
-is the knowledge of antiquity that can give us a maturity in judgement,
-either in persons or things; and how unfit such a one is, that is
-destitute of it, in the executing the great offices of life, I need not
-inculcate.
-
-But nothing I can say in favour of this subject, can be so great a
-panegyric to it, as your lordship’s illustrious name prefixed. The
-glorious ardour for this kind of learning, that kindled in your
-younger years, and that through a long cultivation of it has produced
-a boundless extent of knowledge, with the deepest penetration, the
-strongest judgement, the fire of the soul, and all sublimest qualities
-which the world admires in your lordship; bears down all opposition to
-the study of antiquities, wherein you preside most worthily; wherein no
-one dares to be rival, or hopes to be equal. We see the fruits of it in
-the best-chosen library of ancient authors, in the best collection of
-most ancient coins, statues, busto’s, and learned marbles, which the
-world can show. You, my lord, by treading in the steps of the great
-Arundel, have brought old arts, Greece and Rome, nay Apollo and all his
-Muses, to Great Britain: Wilton is become tramontane Italy.
-
-Every part of learning is your lordship’s province, and sure of your
-protection. But I have a particular happiness in laying before you
-the following account of this summer’s journey, because the greatest
-part of it was by your own direction, and as excursions I made whilst
-at your lordship’s most delightful seat at Wilton. I shall begin with
-what I observed in my tour about it, and proceed to my more western
-perambulation through a country pregnant of antiquities, and the
-greatest curiosities in the world.
-
-The _Belgæ_, the ancient inhabitants of this country, were a brave and
-warlike people, when on their original continent; and we have no reason
-to think, after transplantation on the British soil, they abated aught
-of their courage and valour, natural to its inhabitants. These were
-one of those powerful nations, whose conquest gave opportunity to the
-emperor Vespasian highly to signalize his conduct when he first made a
-figure in arms. Hence it is that we find so many camps hereabouts, from
-the sea side to the midland parts; many of which were made by him, and
-others by his undaunted opposers. The road from Wilton to Shaftesbury,
-called the Ten-mile Course, is a fine ridge of downs, continued upon
-the southern bank of the river Nader, with a sweet prospect to the
-right and left, all the way, over the towns and the country on both
-sides: a traveller is highly indebted to your lordship for adding to
-his pleasure and advantage, in reviving the Roman method of placing a
-numbered stone at every mile, and the living index of a tree to make it
-more observable; which ought to be recommended as a laudable pattern
-to others: thus C. Gracchus planted a stone at every mile, with the
-distance inscribed, says Plutarch; and thus Rutilius, Itinerar. II.
-
- _Intervalla viæ fessis præstare videtur,
- Qui notat inscriptus millia crebra lapis._
-
-[Sidenote: +Chiselbury.+]
-
-[Sidenote: Br. _oppidum_.]
-
-Between Nᵒ 5. and 6. is a pretty large camp, called Chiselbury, upon
-the northern brow of the hill: it is single ditched and of a roundish
-form: before the chief entrance is an half-moon, with two apertures
-for greater security: there is a ditch indeed goes from it downward
-to the valley on both sides, but not to be regarded. This I imagine
-relates not to the camp; for I observed the like across the same road
-in many places between little declivities, and seem to be boundaries
-and sheep-walks made since, and belonging to particular parishes. I
-fancy this name imparted from some shepherd’s cot, anciently standing
-hereabouts, in Saxon _Ccsol_. It seems to be a Roman camp, but of later
-date. At the end of this course, when you come to the great chalk-hill
-looking towards Shaftesbury, are three or four Celtic barrows, one long
-and large, pointing east and west: in this hill is a quarry of stone,
-very full of sea-shells. Not far off, in the parish of Tisbury, near
-Warder castle, is a great intrenchment in a wood, which was probably a
-British _oppidum_, and near the river before mentioned.
-
-[Sidenote: Carvilii _tumulus_.]
-
-Returning, we see upon the highest eminence that overlooks Wilton,
-and the fertile valley at the union of the Nader and Willy, the
-famous King-barrow, as vulgarly called: it is a round _tumulus_,
-of a most ancient form, flat at top, and without any ditch. Your
-lordship rightly judges it in situation to be one of the highest
-barrows in England, being, by exact observation from the water-level
-and calculation, at least four hundred foot above the surface of the
-ocean. This, questionless, is a Celtic _tumulus_: and the very name,
-inherent through long revolutions of time, indicates it to be the grave
-of a king of this country of the _Belgæ_, and that Wilton was his
-royal residence, which for goodness of air, of water and soil, joined
-with the most delightful downs all around it, must highly magnify his
-judgement in choice of a place second to none for all the conveniences
-and delicacies of life. If we reflect a little upon the matter, it
-appears a supposition far from improbability, that this is the very
-monument of Carvilius mentioned by Cæsar, who, joining with the other
-kings along the country on the sea-side from hence to Kent, attacked
-his sea-camp on the Rutupian shore: and this was to make a diversion
-to the great Roman general, pressing hard upon Cassibelan; for, as the
-late learned and sagacious Mr. Baxter observes in his Glossary, where
-should _Carvilius_ live, but among the _Carvilii_? as _Segonax_, one
-of his confederates, among the _Segontiaci_; that is, _Segontium_,
-or _Caersegont_, as the Britons call it; which is now Silchester.
-And it seems to have been the fashion of that time for kings to be
-denominated from the people or place they governed; as _Cassibelan_
-was in name and fact king of the _Cassii_; and many other instances
-I might bring of like nature. Where then should _Carvilius_ live,
-but at _Carvilium_, now Wilton; or where be buried, but in the most
-conspicuous place near his palace? and no other barrow competitor to
-leave any doubt or scruple. It is natural to suppose that the very spot
-where his residence was, is the same where king Edgar’s queen spent
-the latter part of her life in a religious house she built near your
-lordship’s seat, being a hard dry soil, gravelly, and incompassed with
-two fine rivers, which in early times added much to the security of the
-place, and much sought for by the Britons. We took notice, when with
-particular pleasure we visited his _tumulus_, and paid our respects to
-the illustrious _manes_ of the royal defunct, that, among other views
-of great distance, we could see Long-barrow beyond Stonehenge, and
-all the long ridge of Martinsal hill, St. Ann’s hill, and Runwayhill
-beyond that; upon which goes the great Wansdike, which I take to be the
-northern boundary of the Belgic kingdom. I question not but one purpose
-of this interment was to be in sight of the holy work, or temple, of
-Stonehenge. Here then may we conclude rest the ashes of Carvilius, made
-immortal by Caæsar for bravely defending his country; now resting in
-the possessions of a successor, master of both their great qualities;
-who, when wielding the British trident, in a fleet infinitely superior
-to Cæsar’s, could assert a more universal empire. In you, my lord,
-the memory of Carvilius flourishes again, in your eminent love for
-your country’s honour, and in your care for preserving his monument,
-and adorning it with fresh verdure; by planting four trees round its
-edge,[125] and introducing it as a _terminus_, in one of the visto’s,
-to the admirable equestrian statue of M. Aurelius, in the middle of the
-principal star of your park. Thus, according to ancient usage, was the
-_tumulus_ of Diomedes planted with the _platanus_ brought from Asia for
-that purpose; as Pliny informs us in book XII. cap. +i+.
-
-[Illustration: 41 Chlori _Imp. Castrum vulgo_ Clorendon _Aug. 25.
- 1723_.
-
- A. _Icening Street._ B. _Old Sarum._ C. _New Sarum._ D. _Clarendon
- Park._ E. _Ford._ _Stukeley del:_]
-
-[Illustration: 67 _View from_ Harnham hill _Aug 26. 1723._
-
- _Stukeley del._]
-
-[Sidenote: +Yarnbury.+ Ro. _camp_.]
-
-[Sidenote: +Amsbury.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LXVII.]
-
-[Sidenote: +Chloridunum.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XLI.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. IX.]
-
-From hence riding along the hare-warren and end of the park, we are
-entertained with the landscape of no less than five rivers, four
-retaining the old British names: the villages on each side of them are
-so thick, that they seem to join and form long cities in woods. About
-the union of these rivers are three cities and three cathedrals within
-a triangle, whose sides are less than three miles; Wilton, Old and New
-Sarum. The _Nadre_ signifies a snake or adder, metaphorically drawn
-from its winding current: it rises by the end of the Ten-mile course
-above described, and passes by a pleasant village belonging to your
-lordship, Chilmark, famous for its quarries; of a very good stone,
-white, and that rises in any dimensions: there is now a single stone,
-lying over the mouth of the quarry like an architrave, full sixty foot
-long, twelve foot thick, and, as the workmen have assured me upon
-examination, perfectly without flaw: sometimes here are found great
-petrified oyster-shells. The Willy rises about Warminster, taking in a
-little brook, the Dyver, passing under ground, runs by Yarnbury, a vast
-Roman camp, where some think is Vespasian’s name; a great semi-circular
-work at the entrance: several Roman coins have been found here. Not
-far off is a ditch called Chiltern, which seems to be some division of
-the hundreds. There is another camp on the other side the Willy: then
-it runs by Grovely, a great wood of your lordship’s: it admits another
-stream coming on the west side of Stonehenge from Orcheston, remarkable
-for a long kind of grass, which without good proof I should scruple
-relating, for it is commonly twenty-five foot in length, much coveted
-by cattle; by Mr. Ray called _gramen caninum supinum longissimum_:
-he says they use to fatten hogs with it. This Willy, that gives name
-to Wilton, passes chiefly on the north side of the town, makes the
-canal before the front of the house, and then joins the Nadre, coming
-on the south side of the town and through the gardens, at the end of
-the avenue. The Avon arises from under the great ridge of hills that
-divides Wiltshire into north and south, crowned with the Wansditch: it
-passes southward through innumerable villages to Ambsbury, the _pagus
-Ambri_ famous for a monastery built by one Ambrus, which the monks and
-fabulous writers have wrested into _Ambrosbury_; then for a celebrated
-nunnery of noble-women, great numbers of whom, against the institution
-of Nature and Providence, were here veiled: it is now the seat of my
-lord Charlton, built by Inigo Jones, and deservedly to be admired: some
-new works are added to it under the direction of my lord Burlington,
-possessor of his spirit, and a noble collection of his designs. The
-famous old city of _Sorbiodunum_ may be said to stand upon this river:
-it meets with the other two just before it passes through Salisbury,
-and beyond it receives the Bourn, which has dropped its proper name:
-but I guess it to have been _Colin_ or _Colinity_, the same as _Clun_;
-for at its fountain-head is _Colinburn_: all these rivers are called
-_burns_, _Willyburn_, _Adderburn_, &c. below Salisbury enters another,
-I suppose called _Ebbesburn_. From Harnham hill we have a view of both
-Sarums: the old city, with its high-crested triple fortifications,
-threatens all the circumjacent country: the new justly boasts of its
-lofty spire, as wonderful for the slenderness of its foundation, as its
-great height, being 450 foot, making one of the visto’s to the front
-of Wilton-house. To the east is Clarendon, which your lordship first
-observed, from old writings, ought to be called _Clorendun_, from the
-famous Roman camp half a mile off the park near the Roman road: this
-was made or repaired by Constantius Chlorus, father of Constantine the
-Great; it was he that slew Allectus, after he had basely murdered the
-valiant Carausius. Constantius lived at the neighbouring _Sorbiodunum_:
-he was of British extract, the husband of Helena, a famous British
-princess. This camp therefore, properly written, is _Chloridunum_,
-being a beautiful fortification of a round form upon a dry chalk hill:
-within is a circular ditch, having two entrances answering to the
-entrances of the camp, and leaving a large space between it and the
-_vallum_. I suppose this ditch was a lesser camp before, inlarged by
-Chlorus, for keeping his legions as in a summer-camp before the city:
-this they did by carrying away all the earth of the old _vallum_ to the
-new; for it is evident the present rampart is of much larger quantity
-than could be taken out of the subjacent ditch. Chlorendon park is a
-sweet and beautiful place: here king John built him a palace, where
-several Parliaments have been held: part of the building is still
-left, though they have been pulling it down many years: it is chiefly
-of flint, and was a large place upon the side of a hill, but no way
-fortified. This palace of king John answers directly to the front visto
-of Wilton house over the length of the great canal, and is called the
-King’s Manor: they say here is a subterraneous passage to the Queen’s
-Manor. Between the camp and the park runs a Roman road, which has not
-been taken notice of, from _Sorbiodunum_ to Winchester full east and
-west.
-
-[Sidenote: +Aukbury.+ Br. _oppidum_.]
-
-[Sidenote: +Walls.+ Vespasian’s _camp_.]
-
-[Sidenote: +Cheselbury.+]
-
-As we go from Wilton to Stonehenge, between Grovely wood and Woodford
-runs a ditch across the plain, with a high rampart southward: the ditch
-is broad, and goes east and west. I take it to be one of the boundaries
-of the _Belgæ_, which I call the third: the reason will hereafter
-appear. On the east side of the Avon, by Great Dornford, is a very
-large camp covering the whole top of a hill, of no determinate figure,
-as humouring the height it stands on: it is made intirely without any
-ditch, the earth being heaped up very steep in the nature of a parapet,
-when dug away level at the bottom. I doubt not but this was a camp of
-the Britons, and perhaps an _oppidum_, where they retired at night from
-the pasturage upon the river, with their cattle: within it are many
-little banks, carried strait and meeting one another at right angles,
-square, oblong parallels and some oblique, as the meres and divisions
-between ploughed lands; yet it seems never to have been ploughed: and
-there is likewise a small squarish work intrenched, no bigger than a
-large tent: these to me seem the distinctions and divisions for the
-several quarters and lodgements of the people within; for I have, upon
-the downs in Dorsetshire, often remarked the like, of too small a
-compass to be ploughed fields. This camp has an aspect very old; the
-prominent part of the rampart in many places quite consumed by time,
-though the steep remains perfect; one being the natural earth, the
-other factitious: it certainly has so much of the manner of Vespasian’s
-camp, as induces one to think it an imitation. I know not whether we
-ought to derive the name of it from the British _Og_, signifying the
-hurdles and pens they fence their cattle in with, which perhaps stood
-upon those meres, or little banks, to distinguish every man’s property.
-Vespasian’s camp is within sight of it, a little higher up the river,
-and on the other side: it is a famous camp, properly and by universal
-consent attributed to him, called the Walls; well chose, being a high
-piece of ground at a flexure of the river, which closes in an end and a
-side of it: the other side has a broad and very deep valley along it,
-and at the other end is the entrance: the whole hangs over the town of
-Amsbury: the manner of this camp too consists mostly in a rampire, but
-much more operose than that last mentioned; the form oblong: the road
-to the town goes quite through it: it is high in the middle, and has a
-barrow inclosed, but partly level; this I suppose originally Celtic, on
-account of its vicinity to Stonehenge, therefore elder than the
-camp. The east side of Vespasian’s camp is sufficiently guarded by the
-precipice of the river. Further northwards, in the road from Ambsbury
-to Marlborough, is the remain of another round camp, extremely old,
-and almost obliterated: this is between Collinburn and Burbich, upon
-a rising ground, seemingly British: and on the west side of the river
-Avon, over-against it, is another, called too Cheselbury, and said to
-have a fair _prætorium_ in it. These camps so contiguous, with a river
-between, seem still remains of Vespasian’s conquests; and that he got
-the country by inches.
-
-[Illustration: 9 Ruins of King Johns Palace at Clarendon Aug. 3. 1723.
-
- _Stukeley. delin._]
-
-[Illustration: 44 Prospect of Martinsal hill, a Roman Camp 6 July 1723.
-
- A Prospect in Somersetshire 19. Aug. 1723.
-
- a. _Mountagu hill._ b. _a Camp._ c. _the Foss Road._ _Stukeley del:_]
-
-[Sidenote: +Martinshal Hill.+ Ro. _camp_.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XLIV.]
-
-North of these is Martinsal hill, a vast stationary Roman camp, upon
-a high hill steep to the east, which is seldom observable. I measured
-it quite round, in company with lord Hertford and lord Winchelsea:
-it is conspicuous at a great distance, and within sight of all the
-camps in the country. I take it to have been made when the Romans
-were thoroughly possessors of the kingdom, and one of their chief
-fortresses, whence they might give or receive signals all around, in
-case of distress, by fire or smoke. On two sides the precipice is
-dreadfully steep. Lord Winchelsea has a brass _Alexander Severus_ found
-here; on the reverse, _Jupiter fulminans_, with PM. TR. P. COS. On the
-west side, upon the top of the hill, without the camp is a round pit
-full of good spring water, always to the brim but never overflowing in
-the driest summers; which at those seasons is of greatest service to
-the country round, and thousands of cattle are driven every day from
-a considerable distance to drink there. I am told there is another
-such upon the top of Chute hill, south east from hence, very high,
-and no water within some miles of it. So provident has Nature been in
-subliming, by some unknown powers, the liquid element to these barren
-heights, that every part of her works should not be without its graces
-and use. The prospect from Martinsal must needs be exceeding fine.
-Salisbury steeple, twenty miles off, bears south-west and by west: the
-port of this camp is north-east.
-
-[Sidenote: +Martinalia.+]
-
-I take the name of this hill to come from the merriments among the
-northern people, called _Martinalia_, or drinking healths to the memory
-of St. Martin, practised by our Saxon and Danish ancestors. I doubt not
-but upon St. Martin’s day, or Martinmass, all the young people in the
-neighbourhood assembled here,[126] as they do now upon the adjacent St.
-Ann’s hill upon St. Ann’s day. The true word is _Martinsheil_, _heyl_
-signifying health; and the Germans call a bowl, or drinking-vessel,
-_schale_: likewise _hali_ in the Saxon signifies holy; whence our
-_hallow_; and the _Washeyl_ bowl at Christmass, full of spiced ale,
-which they carry about, singing of carols in the streets. Monsieur
-Keysler speaks of these matters largely in his _Antiquitates
-Septentrionales_, p. 358. and that the German gilds, or societies,
-were obliged to keep drinking festivals to St. Mary, St. Martin, St.
-Nicholas, &c. p. 487. he says, at a village in _tractu Albino_, the
-married women upon St. Martin’s day pay 4 d. to the questor: and the
-Spring upon this hill still further favoured their ceremonies. So
-beneficial a bason in heathen times merited divine honours; and the
-people, not willing to part with a holy-day, blended their rites into
-christian. The English took the opportunity of the day after this
-great festival of St. Martin, much observed by the Danes, to commit
-that universal massacre upon them drunken, which totally extirpated
-them. This was anno 1002, upon the 13th of November, the feast day of
-St. Brittius, says Chron. Joann. Alb. Petriburg. on _Hock_ Tuesday,
-which Spelman says had its denomination thence.
-
-In the fields about Chute are bones dug up very plentifully, in a
-place called Blood-field especially: they likewise found there a stone
-coffin with a skeleton inclosed, and an arrow or spear-head of brass,
-as described to me: there was a horse found buried about three yards
-from the body. Whether this was Roman or British, I cannot affirm: I am
-inclinable to think the latter: but it seems that a battle was fought
-here between them.
-
-[Sidenote: +Barbury.+ Ro. _camp_.]
-
-[Sidenote: +Badbury.+]
-
-Full north from hence, upon the Barbury hills, the next ridge
-overlooking the north part of Wiltshire, is another camp, called
-Barbury, in the parish of Ogburn St. George. The noble lords late
-mentioned assisted in measuring it: it is double ditched quite round,
-the inner very deep, and rampart high, of a circular form; an entrance
-upon the east, and another on the west diameter, which is 2000 Roman
-foot long: at the west the inmost rampire retires inwards a little,
-to make a port with jambs: eastward the outer ditch turns round with
-a semi-circular sweep, leaving two passages through it obliquely to
-the main entrance, like our modern half-moons: both these methods I
-have often seen practised.[127] This mighty camp stands on one of the
-western eminences of this ridge, running east and west; very steep
-to the north and west, separating the high ground or downs from the
-fertile country below, which belonged to the _Dobuni_, and lies under
-the eye like a map, as far as the Welsh hills beyond the Severn; whose
-lovely prospect would naturally animate the Britons in its defence, as
-the Romans in its conquest: it is indeed a fine scene of woods, towns,
-pastures, rivers and valleys. A little beyond, upon the same ridge,
-is Badbury camp; and the whole is well planted with stout camps and
-frequent, the eye-sore and terror of the plain: hence you see Martinsal
-camp and many more.
-
-[Sidenote: Ro. _road to_ +Bath. via Badonica.+]
-
-[Sidenote: +Oldbury.+ Ro. _camp_.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XLII.]
-
-Having recited these matters as preliminary, I shall begin my journey
-from Marlborough, the Roman _Cunetio_. I forbear speaking of the
-infinite number of Celtic monuments I have found in this country,
-designing them for a particular treatise, to be honoured with your
-lordship’s illustrious name; and from Marlborough pursue the Roman
-road, which we have before traced from Newbury hither, and lately
-discovered its whole progress toward the Bath, which for distinction
-sake we may call _Via Badonica_: its course is east and west: it goes
-hence all along the north side of the Kennet river, between it and the
-high grounds; and is the present road, but highly wants a Roman hand to
-repair it. When we have rode about a mile, over-against Clatford, at
-a flexure of the river, we meet with several very great stones, about
-a dozen in number, which probably was a Celtic temple, and stood in a
-circle: this form in a great measure they still preserve. I guess the
-Romans buried them in the ground under their road, because directly in
-its passage: the materials throughout have since been worn away, or
-sunk into the ground, being in this place meadow, and so has restored
-their huge bulk to day-light. Hence it proceeds directly up to the
-famous Overton hill, where I first discovered its ridge, when surveying
-the beautiful circle of stones there, belonging to the majestic temple
-of the old Britons at Abury: this ridge is a little to the north
-of the present road, somewhat higher up the hill; it points directly
-east and west, one end to Marlborough, the other to Silbury hill: and
-this shows a defect in our maps, which place Abury too much to the
-south: it is perfect for some space over the down; but upon descending
-the hill westward, they have ploughed it up, and found several Roman
-coins near it, some of which I have by me.[128] At the bottom, by the
-corner of the hedge, it meets again the common road near the White-hart
-ale-house; and so they go together above West Kennet to Silbury-hill:
-this was the post and coach road to the Bath, till, for want of
-reparation, they were forced to find a new one, more northward upon
-the downs, and farther about, through the town of Abury: when on the
-south side of Silbury hill, it goes very strait and full west through
-the corn-fields on the south of Bekhamton, where it is sufficiently
-known by the name of the French way; for what reason I cannot imagine.
-They have of late endeavoured to exclude travellers going upon it,
-by inclosing it at both ends with ditches; but the badness of the
-lower road has defeated their purpose, and made people still assert
-the public right. Beyond Bekhamton it again enters the downs, and
-marches up the hill in a very plain ridge, and beautiful to behold;
-the pits and cavities whence the earth was taken, on both sides, being
-conspicuous all the way: besides, the Romans have defaced a druid’s
-barrow, and another Celtic one near, which saved them some labour: a
-proof they were there before the Roman road; but this is not a proper
-place to enlarge upon it. When it has gained the summit of the hill, it
-leaves Oldbury castle a little to the north: this is a great and strong
-Roman camp on the north-west point of the hill, overlooking Calne: the
-precipice on those two sides is altogether inaccessible, falling down
-in narrow cavities or ribs, as it were the great roots of a tree, with
-an odd and tremendous aspect; and that way there was need but of very
-slender work for its security: but on the other sides it is double
-ditched, having but one entrance to the east, and that fortified with a
-return of the outer ditch and inner rampire, very artificially: there
-is a ditch likewise across the middle, as if it had been inlarged with
-an additional intake westward: it is in the main of a squarish form,
-and has a very fine prospect. On the northern limit, in the highest
-part, seems to have been a _prætorium_. On this hill, which is wholly
-a chalky down, with a most delicate turf (and softer to walk upon
-than a Turky carpet) about a foot or two under the superficial earth,
-they dig great quantities of flints to mend the highways withal: one
-would imagine they had been spewed out of the hardening chalk at the
-creation, as extraneous bodies, though of greater specific gravity than
-itself.
-
-[Illustration: 42 Oldbury Castle _11 Iuly. 1723_.
-
- _Stukeley del:_]
-
-[Sidenote: +Wansdike.+]
-
-Return we to the Roman road, which proceeds across another valley, and
-so towards Runway hill, the highest in all these parts. This was famous
-for a battle in the late civil wars; and they oft find the bullets,
-when digging for the pebbles as afore mentioned; and below the hill
-they plough up the bones of the slain: but much more is Runway eminent
-for two mighty works of antiquity, this Roman way, and Wansdike. The
-most lovely prospect here will tempt even a hasty traveller to cast
-his eyes about him, and see all the country far beyond the Bath,
-and so proportionably quite around. I am not doubtful that it takes
-its name from the Roman way, which here has an unusual and the most
-curious appearance of any I have seen. I took pleasure in examining
-the particularity of it more than once; and it is a masterstroke of
-skill to conduct it down the north side of this long and steep hill
-(as I have so often remarked to be the condition of northern heights)
-to render it easy, or even practicable. When from the top of this hill
-you look towards Marlborough, which is full east, you may discern that
-the road curves a little northward, not discernible but in the whole:
-the reason is to be attributed to the river Kennet, thrusting it out
-somewhat that way; otherwise the true line should have lain a little
-more to the south of Silbury. To the right you see Wansdike, creeping
-all along from south of Marlborough (about two mile) upon the northern
-edge of the great ridge of hills, parting North and South Wiltshire,
-till it descends St. Ann’s hill; and makes several right angles to
-humour the edges of the other hills: the _vallum_ is always on the
-south side, and the higher ground behind it: then it mounts up to the
-highest _apex_ of Runway hill. But the method of the Roman road is
-this: it goes along the northern side of this hill, preserving itself
-upon the level, being cut like a terrace-walk, with a parapet before
-it next the precipice; and that winding in and out, as the curvatures
-of the hill require: it passes just by Calston lime-kiln, and is
-defaced by it; for the workmen make no scruple to dig through it for
-their materials, and this practice has been so old as to denominate
-the town lying beneath. Soon after, it meets with the Wansdike,
-descending the hill just by the gibbet: here it enters full into it,
-and very dexterously makes use of it, all along to the bottom, on a
-very convenient shelf, or spurn of the hill: at the place of union is
-a flexure of the Wansdike, so that the Roman road coincides with it
-directly; and in order to raise it from a ditch into a road, the Roman
-workmen have thrown in most part of the rampire, still preserving it as
-a terrace to prevent the danger, and the terror of the descent on one
-side.
-
-I shall mention, upon another occasion, some other observations I
-have made long since, that overthrow the notion of those that imagine
-Wansdike was cast up by the Saxons, as a limit of the West Saxon and
-Mercian kingdoms, or that its name is derived from their god _Woden_:
-but here we have a most incontestable proof that it was in being
-before the Roman times; and its very name shows it, signifying, in
-the old British language, the division dike, _guaban_, _distinctio_,
-_separatio_: it is indeed the work of the _Belgæ_, their fourth and
-last boundary. These two, the Roman road and Wansdike, go together
-after this manner, till they enter the inclosures a little north of
-Hedington town below Runway hill. At Calston is a most famous spring,
-or cataract of water, coming out of the chalk-hill, and much talked of.
-Wansdike was made by the people of the south, to cover their country,
-as the mode of it sufficiently testifies, and, as we said before, was
-the most northern bounds of the Belgic kingdom. When from the top of
-these hills you view the Roman road, towards the west you see it butts
-full upon the Bath, or that great chink between Lansdown and the banks
-of the river Avon going to Bristol.
-
-[Sidenote: +Verlucio.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LXVIII.]
-
-I had no sooner traced out this road, but I found a fair opportunity
-presented of setting the antiquaries right, as to part of the XIVth
-journey of Antoninus his Itinerary, in which they have hitherto been
-much perplexed. I found no manner of difficulty in settling _Verlucio_
-at Hedington; _Hedda’s_ town, _Heddan_ genitivo. This town is but
-small at present, lying at the bottom of this great hill in a rich
-marly country. The inhabitants are not surprised when you inquire for
-antiquities; they assert it to have been a very old and great city:
-infinite quantities of antiquities are found here: handfuls of coins
-brought home every time they plough, (madam Whitlock has many) and
-the streets and foundations of houses found for a great length,
-sufficiently evince it.[129] Reuben Horsal, clerk of Abury, told me,
-he had seen a gallon of Roman coin taken up at a time in Hedington
-field, in an urn covered with a stone. I suppose its original name
-was _Verolucio_, as _Verolanium_, &c. and then it signifies, in
-the old Celtic, the white habitation, _vrô llug_; _llug_ denoting
-splendid, as _Lugdunum_, a white hill; the same as the Greek Λευκος
-_albus_: if _lug_ imports pure water, then it must relate to Calston
-spring, breaking forth like a cascade: if we take the word _gloyii_,
-_limpidus_, it is all one. It must be noted, that both the XIIIth and
-XIVth journeys of Antoninus his Itinerary are abominably corrupted,
-and want a healing hand as much as any throughout: and being both one
-journey by a different route, I shall undertake thus to restore them.
-
-[Illustration: 68 +Verlvcio+
-
- _Prospect of Hedington. 18 July 1723._
-
- _Stukeley delin._]
-
-
- ITER XIII.
-
- _Ab Isca Callevam_ _M. P._ CXXXIX. _sic_
-
- _Isca leg._ II. _Aug._ Caerleon
- _Burrium_ Usk IX
- _Blescium_ Old town XI
- _Ariconium_ Kenchester XI
- _Glevum colonia_ Glocester XXXV
- _Durocorinium_ Cirencester XIV
- Cunetio _Marlborough_ XIX
- _Spinas_ Newberry XV
- Vindoma _Silchester_ X
- _Caleva Atrebatum_ Farnham XV. _toto_ CXXXIX.
-
-In the copies the sum total is set down CIX. miles; when, if you cast
-up the particulars, it amounts to no more than XC. so that no less than
-nineteen in the original is lost: this shows plainly that some station
-is dropped out, and geography itself indispensably demonstrates it.
-Mr. Fulk was sensible of some deficiency, by his adding _Gobannium_,
-though thereby he hit not the white: in truth, both stations and
-numbers are wanting; for it is notorious that the distance between
-_Ariconium_ and _Glevum_, places sufficiently known, and about which
-we have no contest, is much too little, when set down only XV. mile;
-and XX. must unavoidably be added. Though I am as cautious as any man
-living in laying hand upon these venerable remains, and altering them;
-yet, where nature and reason absolutely require it, I have not the
-least fear in adding two stations, which are quite slipped out from
-the original: between Cirencester and Newberry it is evident _Cunetio_
-must be interposed, or the distance heightened to twice as much: the
-truth is, one station is intermitted, _Cunetio_: and the like between
-_Spinas_ and _Calleva_; for _Vindoma_, or Silchester, must be added,
-beyond which is our _Calleva_, or Farnham; all in a strait line, and
-upon a Roman road from _Aricomum_. Cast up the whole account, it comes
-to CXXXIX. instead of CIX. then all the difficulties that have hitherto
-obscured this journey, vanish: they that compare William Harrison’s
-first copy with the others of this journey, will not be surprised at
-the effects of negligent transcribers, when, out of seven names in
-other books, he has missed two; and so frequently in other journeys.
-In the next place I offer this as the true reading of the fourteenth
-journey of Antoninus.
-
-
- ITER XIIII.
-
- _Alio itinere ab Isca Callevam_ _M. P._ CIII. _sic_
-
- _Isca leg._ II. _Aug._ Caerleon
- _Venta silurum_ Caerguent IX
- _Trajectus_ Old-bury IX
- _Abone_ Henbury IX
- _Aquæ solis_ Bath VI
- _Verlucio_ Hedington XX
- _Cunetio_ Malboro X
- _Spinas_ Newberry XV
- Vindoma _Silchester_ X.
- _Calleva Atrebatum_ Farnham XV _toto_ CIII.
-
-This journey leads us to _Calleva_ another way. Mr. Gale has observed
-_Trajectus_ and _Abone_ transposed. The sum total here likewise is
-invariably in all copies CIII. when the particulars amount but to
-ninety-eight; whence we likewise infer a station is dropped out, as
-before, viz. Silchester, with the number X. annexed. Now it happens
-that number was not lost, though the station was; but was erroneously
-placed to Marlborough, being XX. instead of X. seeing the distance
-between the Bath and Marlborough is notoriously too much. Setting then
-X. mile to _Cunetio_, its real distance from our _Verlucio_, Hedington;
-it remains further to correct the number annexed to _Verlucio_, XX.
-for XV. the letter X being easily corrupted into an V. then we answer
-the distances on all hands, having a Roman road accompanying us, and
-complete the sum total set at top precisely CIII. and restore the whole
-to its ancient purity. When we reflect a little, that, take the matter
-how we will any other way, the difficulties are unsurmountable, I am
-thoroughly satisfied in these corrections.
-
-Much rusty old iron is dug up at the quarries by Brunham, probably of
-the Romans: it is a mile off Hedington.
-
-Upon the hedge of the hill which overlooks Hedington, as it bends a
-little southward, is another pretty little Roman camp, in an angle of
-the hill, of a square form, and as if not finished, or made for but a
-small time of abode upon an expedition; for neither _vallum_ nor ditch
-of any great strength: it is situate on a very convenient promontory,
-or rather _peninsula_ of high ground, the steepness whereof is a guard
-to three sides of it; the other has the slender _vallum_ made chiefly
-of the surface of the earth thrown up a little. From the edge of these
-hills is an indefinite prospect over the country of the _Dobuni_, the
-_Belgæ_, and _Durotriges_: the descent to it, as being on the west side
-of the hill, is very steep. I think this place is called Bagdon hill.
-
-[Sidenote: +Punctuobice.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LXIX.]
-
-Under it, to the left, is the Devises: this I take to be the
-_Punctuobice_ of Ravennas, which he mentions by parcels thus:
-_Leucomagus_, Bedwin, (_Cimetzone_ for) _Cunetione_ in the ablative
-case, Marlborough; _Punctuobice_, the Devises: then he begins a new
-period of cities in Wales, _Venta Silurum_, &c. I suppose here is a
-remnant of the former part of the word _Punctuobice_ in Poulsholt, a
-little village hard by; Potern another, Potern-wood, and the name of
-the hundred Potern, taken, in the first times of their division, from
-such a corrupt appellation of this place: the last syllable _bice_
-subsists in the present name Devises, vulgarly _vies_. This town is
-excellently situated, about two miles from the bottom of the hills,
-which keep off the eastern winds, and in a rich soil.[130] Under
-the hill at Runway is an excellent spring, which the inhabitants have
-not yet found means to convey thither, though it runs but a little
-way off the town, where they want water. It is a very large old town,
-consisting chiefly of two long parallel streets; the houses for the
-most part of timber, but of a very good model: they value themselves
-for one of the best weekly markets in England, and for being tenants
-to the king. It was inclosed by the Romans with a _vallum_ and ditch,
-which I presently found out: they have made a road of the ditch in
-most parts round the town; but in several places both that and the
-_vallum_ are visible enough, and it took in the castle: this castle
-was Roman originally, finely chosen upon a natural fortification,
-but in after-times made in a manner impregnable by Roger a bishop of
-Salisbury; though now it is ignobly mangled, and every day destroyed by
-people that care not to leave a wall standing, though for a fence to
-their garden. Here are two churches; the choir of St. Mary’s, of a very
-old model; the steeple, choir, and both wings of St. John’s, the same,
-to which parcels have since been tacked all round, and new wide windows
-put in with pointed arches, instead of the ancient narrow semi-circular
-ones. Just out of town is a pretty plain, called the Green, with
-another handsome church and steeple, suburbs to the old town. Here
-William Cadby, a gardener, dug up his collection of gods, which he
-carried about for a show: they were found in a garden, in a cavity
-inclosed with Roman brick: the _Venus_ is of an excellent design; and
-the Vestal Virgin, as they call it, a fragment of Corinthian brass;
-it is of very curious drapery: _Vulcan_ is as lame as if made at a
-forge: the rest equal in designing with the _lares_ of the _Ostiaques_,
-and not at all mended in the plate published by Dr. Musgrave: he had
-several coins found thereabouts, and a brass Roman key which my lord
-Winchelsea bought. Roman antiquities are found here every day. My lord
-Winchelsea has one brass _Probus_; on the reverse, +Victoria Germ.+
-with a trophy: and a great fund of such antiquities is to be met with
-all around the country. At Calne incredible numbers of Roman coin dug
-up; so at Studley, in the way to Bath, once a seat of the Saxon kings:
-I have seen and bought some of these: my lord Winchelsea has many found
-there.
-
-[Illustration: 69 +Pvnctvobice.+
- _July 17. 1723._]
-
-From hence towards Trubridge is Steeple-Aston, upon the bottom of the
-downs of Salisbury plain: it is a most excellent church and tower of
-stone, and had a famous spire of lead upon it, but twice thrown down by
-thunder and tempest, which absolutely discouraged the inhabitants from
-setting it up again.
-
-Return we to the Roman Bath road, which we left at Hedington; whence
-it goes much as the common road to Bath, and all along upon the south
-division of Chipenham hundred: I could discern its bank now and then
-upon the road, though much worn away and defaced in defect of necessary
-repairs: it passes the Avon at Lacock, where has been a great religious
-house, so by a chapel south of Haselbury: then it descends a hill for
-two miles together, till it meets, over-against Bathford, the Foss-way,
-which comes in a strait line hither through Cirencester, from _Benonis_
-or High-cross in Warwickshire, where I left it last year: then our
-road goes round the crook of the river by Walcot to the Bath. This
-turn it is that swells the distance between Bath and _Verlucio_ to XX.
-Roman miles, as we before corrected it. The Wansdike runs still not
-far off this road, but a little north of it through Spy park; so by
-Ditchbridge, which has its name from it; then to the Shire stones, at
-the division between Gloucestershire, Wilts, and Somerset. As to the
-nature of the soil, when we have left the chalky downs at Hedington,
-it is intirely sand to the river Avon, whence the name of Sandy lanes:
-from thence to the Bath it is rocky. There is a vast descent from the
-Downs quite to Bath, and every great ridge is very steep westward.
-
-[Sidenote: +Aquæ Solis.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LXX. LXXI.]
-
-The Bath is a place so celebrated, and so well known, that I need say
-but little upon it; nor can much be expected from the small time I
-rested here: its history and antiquities have been copiously handled
-by several gentlemen of our own faculty. It is indeed a spot of ground
-which we Britons may esteem as a particular boon of Nature: it lies
-in a great valley surrounded with an amphitheatrical view of hills;
-and its situation on the west side of the island does not a little
-contribute to its pleasures; for such is ever less subject to violent
-and enormous alterations of the air by winds and tempest, heat and
-cold: but the Romans were prudently induced to make a station here, by
-the admirable hot springs, so wonderful in themselves, and so justly
-regarded. The walls round the city are for the most part intire, and
-perhaps the old Roman work, except the upper part, which seems repaired
-with the ruins of Roman buildings; for the lewis holes are still left
-in many of the stones, and, to the shame of the repairers, many Roman
-inscriptions: some sawn across, to fit the size of the place, are
-still to be seen, some with the letters towards the city, others on
-the outside: most of those mentioned in Mr. Camden and other authors
-are still left; but the legend more obscure. The level of the city
-is risen to the top of the first walls, through the negligence of
-the magistracy, in this and all other great towns, who suffer idle
-servants to throw all manner of dirt and ashes into the streets: these
-walls inclose but a small compass, of a pentagonal form: four gates
-on four sides, and a postern on the other: from the south-west angle
-has been an additional wall and ditch carried out to the river; by
-which short work the approach of an enemy on two sides is cut off,
-unless they pass the river. The small compass of the city has made
-the inhabitants croud up the streets to an unseemly and inconvenient
-narrowness: it is handsomely built, mostly of new stone, which is very
-white and good; a disgrace to the architects they have there. The
-cathedral is a beautiful pile, though small; the roof of stone well
-wrought; much imagery in front, but of a sorry taste. Here they suppose
-(with probability) stood the Roman temple of Minerva, patroness of the
-Baths.[131] Before it was a handsome square _area_, but lately deformed
-with houses encroaching: on the south side are the justly-renowned hot
-springs, collected into a square _area_ called the King’s Bath. The
-corporation has lately erected a pretty handsome building before it,
-called the Drinking-room, for the company to meet in that drink the
-waters drawn hither by a marble pump from the bottom of the springs,
-where it is near boiling hot. This water is admirably grateful to the
-stomach, striking the roof of the mouth with a fine sulphureous and
-steely _gas_, like that of the German Spa or Pyrmont: though you drink
-off a large pint glass, yet it is so far from creating a heaviness, or
-_nausea_, that you find yourself brisker immediately, by its agreeable
-sensation on the membranes of the stomach: at first it operates
-by stool, and especially urine: it is of most sovereign virtue to
-strengthen the bowels, to restore their lost tone through intemperance
-or inactivity, and renews the vital fire by its adventitious heat and
-congenial principles. Hither let the hypochondriac student repair, and
-drink at the Muses’ spring: no doubt the advantages obtained here in
-abdominal obstructions must be very great. The King’s Bath is an oblong
-square; the walls full of niches, perhaps the Roman work: there are
-twelve on the north side, eight on the east and west; about four larger
-arches on the south: at every corner are the steps to descend into
-it, and a parapet or balustrade with a walk round it: in the middle
-is set an aukward timber-work, like a cross, adorned with crutches,
-the trophies of its wonderful cures: around that emerge the boiling
-springs very plentifully: upon the south wall is the fanciful image of
-king Bladud, with a silly account of his finding out these springs,
-more reasonably attributed to the Romans: they no doubt separated them
-first from common springs, and fenced them in with an eternal wall.
-The people have a notion, and probable enough, of subterraneal canals
-of their making, to carry off the other waters, lest they should mix
-and spoil the heat of these. It is remarkable that at the cleansing of
-the springs, when they set down a new pump, they constantly find great
-quantities of hazle-nuts, as in many other places among subterraneous
-timber. These I doubt not to be the remains of the famous and universal
-deluge, which the Hebrew historian tells us was in autumn, Providence
-by that means securing the revival of the vegetable world. In this bath
-the people stand up to the chin, men and women, and stew, as we may
-properly call it; for the most part, in the way of gallantry, and as
-at a collation. I should judge the method used at Buxton preferable,
-where the sexes go in separately and privately, where they have liberty
-to swim about and stir the limbs, and exercise the lungs; whence the
-whole body will better receive the full force and benefit of the
-warmth: and this will more effectually put the humours in motion,
-that should be exterminated at the opened pores: this exercise of the
-solids sets the glands to work, and every secretion is promoted. Many
-are the diseases and calamities which here find a happy period, when
-judiciously applied, which, as a traveller, I need not discourse upon.
-This brings innumerable people to the salutiferous streams; especially
-in the summer time, which likewise seems an error owing to custom and
-fashion; for I doubt not they are equally, if not more beneficial, both
-internally and externally, in winter than summer. The carrying the
-water to distant places to drink, seems only a splendid fallacy.
-
-[Illustration: 70 +Aqvæ Solis+
-
- _Iuly 1723_
-
- A _The Kings Bath_
- B _The Queens Bath_
- C _The Cross Bath_
- D _The Hot Bath_
- E _Gascoins Tower_
- F _Sᵗ. Catherines Hospital_
- G _Sᵗ. Iohns Hospital_
- H _Bridewell_
- I _The Play House_
- K _Sᵗ. Marys_
- L _The Market House_
- M _Sᵗ. Peters Cathedral_
- N _Sᵗ. Iames’s_
- O _The Abby Gate_
- P _Sᵗ. Michaels_
- Q _Sᵗ. Michaels broadstr._
-
- _Insignia Urbis_ _Insignia ecclesiæ_
-
- _Stukeley delin._ _Parker Sculpᵗ._]
-
-[Illustration: 71 Aquæ Solis Iuly 21. 1723. _From the top of the
- Southern hill._
-
- Cl. Richardo Mead M.D. _tab. d.d. Wˢ. Stukeley_. _Stukeley del._]
-
-I observe the whole country hereabouts is a rock of good lime-stone,
-which is the _minera_ of the water’s heat and virtue: but how that
-comes to be calcined; by what refined chymistry of Nature sulphur and
-steel are mixed with it; by what means it acquires and conserves with
-so much constancy this equable and mighty _focus_, together with the
-reason of fountains in general; I profess, in my sentiments, is one of
-the great _arcana_ in philosophy hitherto inscrutable.
-
-Behind the southern wall of the King’s Bath is a lesser square, called
-the Queen’s Bath, with a tabernacle of four pillars in the midst: this
-is of more temperate warmth, as deriving its water at second-hand from
-the other. There are likewise pumps and pumping-rooms, for pouring hot
-streams on any part of the body; which in many cases is very useful, to
-dissolve sizy concretions about the joints and the like, and recovers
-the natural elasticity in the relaxed fibres of the solids. The _area_
-before this bath and front of the cathedral, is in the centre of the
-_pentagon_, upon which the city is formed. Why the Romans made it of
-this unusual figure, I cannot tell: nothing appears from the manner
-of the ground and situation; but I observe the same of Aix in France.
-One would be apt to suspect they had a regard to the sacred symbol and
-mystical character of medicine, which in ancient times was thought of
-no inconsiderable virtue: this is a pentagonal figure, formed from a
-triple triangle, called by the name of _Hygeia_, because to be resolved
-into the Greek letters that compose the word. The Pythagoreans used it
-among their disciples as a mystical symbol, denoting health; and the
-cabalistic Jews and Arabians had the same fancy: it is the _pentalpha_,
-or _pentagrammon_, among the Egyptians; the mark of prosperity.
-Antiochus Soter, going to fight against the Galatians, was advised
-in a dream to bear this sign upon his banner; whence he obtained a
-signal victory. This would make one believe a physician had a hand
-in projecting this city. Dr. Musgrave thinks it was Scribonius, who
-accompanied Claudius hither.
-
-In the south-west part of the town are two other baths, not to be
-disregarded: for in any other place who would not purchase them at
-the greatest price? The Hot bath is a small parallelogram, not much
-inferior in heat to the King’s bath: it has a stone tabernacle of four
-pillars in the middle. The Cross bath, near it, is triangular, and had
-a cross in the middle; which now is a very handsome work, in marble,
-of three Corinthian pillars, erected by the lord Milford, in memory
-of king James the Second’s queen conceiving, as it is said, after the
-use thereof. Hard by is an hospital built and endowed by a bishop of
-this see. The water in these two places rises near to the level of the
-streets, because I suppose in this part of the town the earth is not
-so much heightened. On the south side of the cathedral are some parts
-of the abbey left, and the gate-house belonging to it. Not long ago,
-by money contributed, they made a cold bath, at a spring beyond the
-bridge, that nothing of this sort might be wanting for the benefit of
-the infirm.
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XLIX.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XLI. 2d Vol.]
-
-Since Mr. Camden’s time two inscriptions have been set in the eastern
-wall of the cathedral, fronting the walks: but this is as imprudently
-done as those in the city-walls; for, besides the rain and weather,
-they are exposed to the boys, who throw stones at them: one is that of
-Julius Vitalis, published by Dr. Musgrave; the other, which he calls a
-basso relievo of Geta, seems to have been the top of a monumental stone
-over some common horseman. Harrison’s house, they say, is built against
-some basso’s and inscriptions. In the 49th plate I have given the whole
-stone and inscription, now in the wall near the north gate.
-
-At Walcot has been a camp, and many Roman antiquities are frequently
-found. Lord Winchelsea has an urn, a _patera_, and other things, found
-in a stone coffin, wherein was a child’s body, half a mile off the Bath.
-
-Riding upon Lansdown, I saw the monument, lately erected by lord
-Lansdown, in memory of his grandfather Bevil Granvile, slain here in
-a battle with the parliament forces. Hence, it being a north-west
-precipice, is a prospect of Bristol, the Severn, &c. This road seems
-to be the Ricning-street, called Langridge, going to the passage over
-the Severn, the ancient _Trajectus_ and so along the east side of the
-Severn, and into Yorkshire. The ground hereabouts is very red, covering
-a solid rock of stone, which lies in thin layers parallel to the
-horizon, with as much exactness as if hewn for courses in a wall: this
-stone is full of little shells; and of this sort is the monument of
-Julius Vitalis: between the _strata_ are crystallizations or fluors of
-petrifying juices: all the stone in this country abounds with curious
-fossils. As you walk along a new paved road, it is very common to
-find very great _cornua ammonis_, two foot diameter, laid in among the
-rest; and, though formed with such admirable curiosity, yet the country
-people walk carelessly over them, as I observed, whilst a horse will
-startle at so unusual an appearance: the first I saw in the Foss road,
-going up the hill south of Bath, I took for the image of the Sun, which
-I remembered to have seen prints of, as it was in _basso relievo_ in
-the city-walls, with his hair flowing round like rays; and this was
-well enough represented in a stone that had been worn a little: but
-I was soon undeceived, when I found great numbers of the same sort
-further on.[132]
-
-[Illustration: 49 +Roman Inscriptions+
-
- _Honorabili Johĩ Clerke Baroni Scaccar. in Scotia tab. d.d. Wˢ.
- Stukeley._
-
- _Stukeley f.a.f 1723_]
-
-[Illustration: 41·2ᵈ. _At Bathe._
-
- _Stukeley delin._ _I. Harris fecit._]
-
-[Sidenote: _The_ +Weddings+. Br. _Temple_.]
-
-[Sidenote: +Marsbury+ _field_.]
-
-[Sidenote: +Bowditch+ _camp_.]
-
-From the Bath I went to visit the famous Celtic temple called the
-Weddings, in company with John Strachey, esq; who lives near there,
-a person well versed in natural history and antiquities, and fellow
-of the Royal Society. I shall describe this memorable curiosity upon
-another occasion. In the way hither, about Twyfordton, I found a fallow
-field with but little quantity of earth upon the rock: this was as
-full of fossil shells as possible, let into a softish stone, which had
-preserved their very natural colour of blue and white as perfectly as
-at first. Near Stanton Drue, in a _trivium_, is an old elm-tree made
-infamous for the bloody trophies of judge Jeffrys’s barbarity, in the
-duke of Monmouth’s rebellion; for all its broad-spreading arms were
-covered over with heads and limbs of the unfortunate countrymen. In Chu
-parish is Bowditch, a large camp on a hill trebly fortified, whence you
-may behold the isles of Flatholm and Steepholm in the sea. I suppose
-the word means the circular form of the place. Here is a petrifying
-spring. This country abounds with coal-pits: the slates that lie upon
-it, and have not received their due quantity of sulphur, so as to make
-perfect coal, are most curiously marked with impressions of plants,
-capillary ones especially, and more particularly those of fern; all
-which grew in exceeding plenty in this country, and gave their forms
-to this soft matter at the Deluge. This is indeed a rock, and full
-of springs, very bad road for travelling, short and steep valleys,
-narrow lanes, intricate, dark and hard: so no wonder _harts-tongue_,
-_liver-wort_, _maiden-hair_, _navel-wort_, and the like moist plants,
-thrive here. The ground in these valleys is very rich: much wood
-grows upon it; though in some roads you ride upon the superfice of a
-rock lying flat in great slabs, as if artificially placed with good
-joints. Many wood-plants grow about here, such as _wood-sorrel_,
-_strawberries_, _tutsan_ or _park-leaves_, &c. The neatness of the
-houses even of the poorer sort of people is remarkable, being generally
-whited over, and with pretty little gardens, which in pure and unartful
-nature is a necessary adjunct in the happiness of life.
-
-[Sidenote: _Camps._]
-
-There is a camp overlooks Stanton Drue, called Mizknoll; another at
-Elm, two miles west from Frome: in 1691 a pot of Roman coin found
-there, most of Constantine junior: it is upon the end of a precipice,
-and severed from the rest of the hill by a _vallum_ on one side only:
-south of it runs a rivulet. Masbury castle upon Mendip hills, half a
-mile from the Foss, a mile north of Shipton-Mallet, of a round form,
-150 paces diameter: the two entrances opposite: the environing ditch on
-one end laps over with a semi-lunar turn, rendering the passage to it
-oblique. Hereabouts are many camps, whose ditches are hewn out of the
-solid rock: that above Bristol has four trenches, as many _vallums_,
-and but one entrance: one would think it impregnable to any thing but
-hunger. A camp cut out of the rock at Churchill with a single trench.
-There is a cave equal to that of Ochey-hole at Dolebury. These are from
-information of Mr. Strachey.
-
-In this county of Somersetshire are three remarkable hills, that make
-an exact triangle twelve mile each side, much talked of by the country
-people; Camalet castle, Glassenbury torr, and Montacute. They have a
-notion that king Arthur obtained from some saint, that no serpent or
-venomous creature should ever be found in this compass, though frequent
-all around it. I shall rehearse to your lordship what occurred to me
-at the places. All this country, though to the eye very pleasant with
-woods and prospects yet is very disagreeable to travel, for the reasons
-I just mentioned.
-
-[Sidenote: +Colomeæ.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XLIII.]
-
-Camalet is a noted place, situate on the highest ground in this county,
-on the edge of Dorsetshire. The country people are ignorant of this
-name, which has generally obtained among the learned: they call it
-Cadbury castle, from the village of North-Cadbury, in which it is: this
-caution is useful to those that go to enquire for it. Hereabouts rise
-the rivers of Somersetshire, which run into the Severn sea westward;
-and that in Dorset, which goes eastward, through Sturminster, into the
-southern ocean. It is a noble fortification of the Romans, placed on
-the north end of a ridge of hills separated from the rest by nature;
-and for the most part solid rock, very steep and high: there are three
-or four ditches quite round, sometimes more: the _area_ within is
-twenty acres at least, rising in the middle: its figure is squarish,
-but conforms to the shape of the hill. There is a higher angle of
-ground within, ditched about, where they say was king Arthur’s palace:
-it was probably the _prætorium_ and might be king Arthur’s too. who
-lived in this place: the country people refer all stories to him. The
-whole has been ploughed over since the memory of man, and much stone
-has been taken from the surface, which has altered it. The rampart
-is large and high, made chiefly of great stones covered with earth,
-and perhaps, in some parts where it was necessary, laid with mortar:
-here is only one entrance from the east. It is not unlikely there
-were buildings erected in the later British times, being of so great
-strength, and a perfect watch-tower, surveying the country round to an
-incredible distance. The prospect is woody, and very pleasant; here and
-there little hills, lofty and steep, peeping up with their naked heads:
-you reach all the Mendip hills and Black-down in Devonshire. In this
-camp they find many pebble-stones exactly round, half a peck at a time;
-whereas there are none such in the country: they suppose them stones
-to sling withal, fetched from the sea, or perhaps shot in cross-bows.
-Roman coin in great plenty has been found here, and all the country
-round: I saw vast numbers of Antoninus and Faustina, about that time
-and after. The entrance here is guarded with six or seven ditches: on
-the north side, in the fourth ditch, is a never-failing spring, called
-King Arthur’s well: over it they have dug up square stones, door-jambs
-with hinges, and say there are subterraneous vaults thereabouts.
-Selden, in his notes on _Polyolbion_, writes it was full of ruins and
-reliques of old buildings. At top they told me many pavements, and
-arches have been dug up, hand-grindstones, and other domestic or camp
-utensils. They say there is a road across the fields, that bears very
-rank corn, called King Arthur’s Hunting-causeway.
-
-[Sidenote: +Cadbury.+]
-
-The church and tower of Cadbury is neat and small, built of stone.
-In this place they call walnuts _Welsh-nuts_. To the southward, on
-the opposite hill, corpses have been dug up: there was lately an
-urn full of Roman money found at Wincaunton. A little above Sutton,
-toward Beacon-Ash, in inclosing ground, half a peck of the same coin
-was found; I saw some of Tetricus. Roman _pateras_, a knife, and
-other antiquities, taken up thereabouts, sent to madam Thyns, now in
-lord Winchelsea’s custody. Many are the British stories told of
-Camalet, of the knights of king Arthur’s round table, of the solemn
-justings and tournaments there, &c. It seems, when the castle for its
-security was turned into a city, this was the _Colomeæ_ of Ravennas,
-(as Mr. Baxter has corrected it) in the later times of the Romans;
-unless Quincamel, not far off, can better put in its claim, to which
-this might be the garrison. At Long-Leat, in my lord Weymouth’s
-library, is a piece of lead weighing fifty pound, one foot nine inches
-long, two inches thick, three and an half broad, found in the lord
-Fitzharding’s grounds near Bruton in Somersetshire, and was discovered
-by digging a hole to set a gate-post in: upon it this memorable
-inscription, which I suppose was some trophy; communicated by lord
-Winchelsea.
-
-[Illustration: 43 _Prospect From Sᵗ. Roc’s hill Sept. 15. 1723._
-
- _Prospect of Camalet Castle._ _15. Aug. 1723._
-
- _Stukeley Del._]
-
-[Illustration: 33 _Ichnography of the Abby of Glasenbury. 17. Aug.
- 1723._
-
-_I. Vᵈʳ. Gucht Scul._ _Stukeley delin_]
-
- ┌───────────────────────┐
- │ IMP DVOR AVG ANTONINI │
- │ ET VERI ARMENIACORVM. │
- └───────────────────────┘
-
-Hence let us go, as in pilgrimage, to the famous Glassenbury; for it is
-a very rough and disagreeable road, over rocks and the heads of rivers:
-but that is much alleviated by the many natural curiosities such places
-afford: several times I saw _gilded ivy_ grow in the hedges, as yellow
-as gold; great plenty of _viorna_, _purging-thorn_, _prim-print_, and
-the banks every where over-grown with _fox-gloves_. Kyneton village,
-for half a mile together, is paved naturally with one smooth broad
-rock, the whole breadth of the road; so that it looks like ice. Great
-quarries of stone hereabouts, of the slab kind: all the uppermost
-layers are incredibly full of sea-shells, and would make admirable
-pannels to wainscot a _virtuoso’s_ summer-house, grotto, or the like,
-and of any dimensions; not inferior, in true value, to those brought
-from Italy, but too cheap. I frequently took notice that the course of
-the vein of the stone quarry runs north-east and south-west.
-
-[Sidenote: +Glasenbury Torr+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XXXVII.]
-
-Crossing the Foss road at Lyteford you enter upon a flat moorish
-country, full of artificial cuts and drains, like the levels in
-Lincolnshire. Not far before I came to Glassenbury, I observed a great
-bank, crossing the road, which seemed to be a Roman road. I guess there
-was a Roman road went from Bristol, through Axbridge, Bridgewater,
-Taunton, parallel to the Foss, and nearer the ocean. I have been told,
-between the two last places it is very fair, and paved with stone. With
-much labour I climbed to the top of the Torr, hanging over the town of
-Glassenbury. This hill, with that called Werial hill, is a long rib of
-elevated ground in the midst of this vast level or isle of Avalon. I
-observed, in its several breaks or gradations, a steepness westward.
-Here upon the narrow crest of the Torr, which is much the highest, the
-abbots built a church to St. Michael, of good square stone: the tower
-is left, though ruinous; and it is an excellent sea-mark: it probably
-cost more to carry the stone up to this _apex_, than to erect the
-building. There is a spring half way up it. It is certainly higher than
-any ground within ten miles of the place. They say here is a passage
-hence under ground to the abbey.
-
-[Sidenote: +Glasenbury.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XXXIII.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XXXVII.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XXXIV.]
-
-This great monastery in superstitious times held the first place for
-fame and sanctity. Here the christian doctrine first found admittance
-in Britain, or early tradition has amused us: it is not unlikely the
-fact may be true, though the persons and circumstances invented:
-however, it is not to be doubted but king Ina built their church; as
-one of the most ancient, so the most wealthy and magnificent, loaded
-with revenues by the Saxon kings, and perhaps the British before
-them. Truly the abbot lived in no less state than the royal donors: no
-wonder, when his revenue was equivalent to 40,000l. per ann. he could
-from the Torr see a vast tract of this rich land his own demesnes,
-and seven parks well stored with deer belonging to the monastery.
-It is walled round and embattled like a town, a mile in compass: as
-yet there are magnificent ruins; but within a _lustrum_ of years, a
-presbyterian tenant has made more barbarous havock there, than has
-been since the Dissolution; for every week a pillar, a buttress, a
-window-jamb, or an angle of fine hewn stone, is sold to the best
-bidder: whilst I was there they were excoriating St. Joseph’s chapel
-for that purpose, and the squared stones were laid up by lots in the
-abbot’s kitchen: the rest goes to paving yards and stalls for cattle,
-or the highway. I observed frequent instances of the townsmen being
-generally afraid to make such purchase, as thinking an unlucky fate
-attends the family where these materials are used; and they told me
-many stories and particular instances of it: others, that are but half
-religious, will venture to build stables and out-houses therewith, but
-by no means any part of the dwelling-house. The abbot’s lodging was a
-fine stone building, but could not content the tenant just mentioned,
-who pulled it down two or three years ago, and built a new house out of
-it; aukwardly setting up the arms and cognisances of the great Saxon
-kings and princes, founders, and of the abbots, over his own doors and
-windows: my friend Mr. Strachey had taken a drawing of it very luckily
-just before, which I have put in its proper place, plate 37. Nothing
-is reserved intire but the kitchen, a judicious piece of architecture:
-it is formed from an octagon included in a square; four fire-places
-fill the four angles, having chimneys over them: in the flat part of
-the roof, between these, rises the arched octagonal pyramid, crowned
-with a double lantern, one within another: there are eight curved ribs
-within, which support this vault, and eight funnels for letting out
-the steam through windows; within which, in a lesser pyramid, hung the
-bell to call the poor people to the adjacent almery, whose ruins are
-on the north side of the kitchen: the stones of the pyramid are all
-cut slaunting with the same bevil to throw off the rain. They have a
-report in the town, that king Henry VIII. quarrelling with the abbot,
-threatened to fire his kitchen: to which he returned answer, That he
-would build such a one as all the timber in his forest should not burn.
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XXXVI.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XXXV.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XXXVII.]
-
-The church was large and magnificent: the walls of the choir are
-standing, twenty-five fathom long, twelve broad: there is one jamb
-at the east end of the high altar left: hereabouts were buried king
-Edgar, and many of the Saxon kings, whose noble ashes ought to have
-protected the whole: two pillars of the great middle tower are left
-next the choir: on the north side is St. Mary’s chapel, as they told
-me; the roof beat down by violence, and a sorry wooden one in its
-place, thatched with stubble to make it serve as a stable: the manger
-lies upon the altar and niche where they put the holy water. St.
-Edgar’s chapel is opposite to it; not much left of it, beside the
-foundations: the north and south transepts are quite demolished. They
-say king Arthur was buried under the great tower. A small part of the
-south side wall of the body of the church remains, which made one side
-of the cloysters; and the arch at the west end, leading to the chapel
-of Joseph of Arimathea, the patron and asserted founder of the whole.
-This they say was the first christian church in Britain. The present
-work is about the third building upon the same spot: it is forty-four
-paces long, thirty-six wide without: it is so intire, that we could
-well enough draw the whole structure, as in plate 35. the roof
-is chiefly wanting: two little turrets are at the corners of the west
-end, and two more at the interval of four windows from thence, which
-seem to indicate the space of ground the first chapel was built on: the
-rest between it and the church was a sort of anti-chapel. Underneath
-was a vault now full of water, the floor of the chapel being beaten
-down into it: it was wrought with great stones. Here was a capacious
-receptacle of the dead: they have taken up many leaden coffins, and
-melted them into cisterns. Hence is the subterraneous arched passage
-to the Torr, according to their notion. The roof of the chapel was
-finely arched with rib-work of stone: the sides of the walls are full
-of small pillars of Sussex marble, as likewise the whole church; which
-was a little way of ornamenting in those days: they are mostly beaten
-down: between them the walls are painted with pictures of saints, as
-still easily seen. All the walls are overgrown with ivy, which is the
-only thing here in a flourishing condition; everything else presenting
-a most melancholy, though venerable aspect. On the south side the
-cloysters was the great hall. The town’s people bought the stone of
-the vaults underneath to build a sorry market-house, contributing
-to the ruin of the sacred fabric, and to their own: what they durst
-not have done singly, they perpetrated as a body, hoping vengeance
-would slip between so many: nor did they discern the benefit accruing
-to the town from the great concourse of strangers purposely to see
-this abbey, which is now the greatest trade of it, as formerly its
-only support; for it is in a most miserable decaying condition, as
-wholly cut off from the great revenues spent among them. There are
-many other foundations of the buildings left in the great _area_, but
-in the present hands will soon be rooted up, and the very footsteps
-of them effaced, which so many ages had been erecting. Though I am
-no encourager of superstitious foppery, yet I think, out of that
-vast estate, somewhat might have been left, if only to preserve old
-monuments for the benefit of our history. The abbot’s hall I have been
-told was curiously wainscoted with oak, and painted with coats of arms
-in every pannel. The mortar of these buildings is very good, and great
-rocks of the roof of the church lie upon the ground, consisting chiefly
-of rubble stone untouched by the fanatical destroyers, who work on the
-hewn stone of the outside, till a whole wall falls when undermined a
-little. Throughout the town are the tattered remains of doors, windows,
-bases, capitals of pillars, &c. brought from the abbey, and put into
-every poor cottage.
-
-[Illustration: 37 _The Prospect of_ Glasenbury Abby.
-
- A. _Sᵗ. Josephs chappel._ B. _The Abby Church._ C. _Sᵗ. Marys
- chappel._ D. _Edgars chappel._ E. _The high Alter._ F. _The
- Cloysters._ G. _The Hall._ H. _The Abbots kitchin._ I. _The Abbots
- Lodging._
-
- _Stukeley del._]
-
-[Illustration: 34 _The Orthography Section & Groundplot of the Abbot of
- Glasenburys Kitchin._ _Aug. 17. 1723._
-
- _Celeberrimo Viro Humfredo Wanleio d.d. W. Stukeley._]
-
-[Illustration: 36 _A Prospect of the Ruins of_ Glasenbury Abby _Aug.
- 17. 1723_.
-
- _Stukeley del_: _E. Kirkall scul_:
-
- A. _The Abbots Kitchin._ B. _His Lodgings._ C. _Sᵗ. Iosephs
- Chappel._ D. _The Town Church._ E. _the Abby Church._ F. _the
- Tower._ G. _Sᵗ. Marys Chappel._ H. _Edgars Chappel._ I. _the
- Choir._ K. _the Cloysters._ L. _the Hall._ M. _the Monks Lodgings._
- N. _the Almery._]
-
-[Illustration: 35 _The Inside Section of Sᵗ. Joseph of Arimathea’s
- Chapel at Glasenbury._
-
- _Tho. Tanner D.D. Sacra Tabula._
-
- _G. Vᵈᵉʳ. Gucht. Scul._ _Stukeley delin._]
-
-In the town are two churches; the upper a handsome fabric, with a fine
-tower of good design, adorned with figures in niches: at the east end
-of the church-yard is a curious old tomb inscribed with ancient English
-letters, but so worn with trampling on, that I could make little out
-of it, except the name of the interred Alleyn. The George inn is an
-old stone building, called the Abbot’s inn, where chiefly the pilgrims
-were lodged that came strolling hither, and idling their time away for
-sanctity: stone and timber are liberally bestowed on it: a coat of arms
-of the kings of England, supported by a lion and a bull, over the gate,
-and many crosses: the bed I lay in was of large timber, with great
-embossed gilt pannels, and seemed to have been the abbot’s.
-
-When I left this place, I passed through a great gate built across
-the road under the abbey wall, with a lesser portal by the side of
-it; which I suppose was some boundary of the abbey-lands, and part of
-their extravagance; for the abbot’s revenues being inconsumable in
-their way of life, they prodigally threw it away in building, as one
-method of perpetuating their name: another they had which was very
-useful, the making great and high causeways, along this moory country,
-for facilitating travelling and commerce; the remains of which I saw
-here and there, and wished they had been in better repair. I passed by
-the side of Werial hill, where grew the famous hawthorn that blossomed
-at Christmas; I suppose, an early blooming white-thorn: but that it
-so strictly observed Christmas day to an hour, nay a minute, as they
-here assert, I believe no more than the vulgar derivation of the hill,
-with more of the dregs of monkery. Somerton is an old town, that gives
-name to the whole county, once the royal seat of the West-Saxon kings:
-the steeple is octangular: probably it was a Roman town. I saw a camp
-upon a great copped high hill on the right hand, as I travelled. At
-Ilchester town end I fell into the Foss road again.
-
-[Sidenote: +Ischalis.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LXXII.]
-
-This station of the Romans is situate on the south side of the river
-Ivel, or Yeovil, the _Velox_ of Ravennas. Pillbridge, a little lower,
-seems to retain the name: it is the _Uzella_ of Ptolemy. I perceived
-immediately that this place had been originally encompassed with a
-wall and ditch, and traced out the manifest _vestigia_ thereof quite
-round: it was an oblong square 300 paces in length, 200 in breadth,
-standing upon the oblique points of the compass, conform to the
-Foss way, which passes through the town exactly from north-east to
-south-west: the north-east side of the city lay against the river,
-where I saw foundations of the wall here and there, and took up several
-Roman bricks in searching for it in the gardens: the ditch on the
-north-west side is become a road, called Yard-lane, as going behind
-the yards and gardens: then it runs through the friery garden; for the
-religious had extended their bounds beyond the city, and turned the
-road on the outside: then it goes along the road on the back of Mr.
-Lockyer’s garden: it is now visible between the Yeovil road and the
-southern angle; then runs through another garden, being for the most
-part levelled by the gardener, who showed me the track of it, and had
-by times, in digging, taken up remainders of the wall, with many coins,
-bricks, tiles, and other antiquities. I bought some coins of him, among
-which the brass one of Antoninus Pius depicted in the plate; on the
-reverse, Britannia sitting on a rock with a military ensign. Sir Philip
-Sydenham has a great quantity of coins found here, and the minister of
-the parish gave many to the learned Mr. Coke of Norfolk. This gardener
-showed me many square paving bricks in the floor of his house, and
-told me he dug up a great brass coin, as big as half a crown, under
-the foundation of the wall, which doubtless would have discovered to
-us the _area_ of its building. Crossing the Sherburn and Limington
-road, we find the ditch again, turning up to the river-side, on the
-eastern angle, conformable to the scheme; where it is again inclosed
-into gardens and pastures: the occupier of the gardens there informed
-me too, that he had frequently dug up the like antiquities, together
-with the foundations of the wall. The quickset-hedge that fences in
-the garden stands on the edge of the ditch, and observes its turn at
-that angle of the city: by the new mill it meets the river. In all the
-gardens hereabouts, by the Borough-green, they find foundations of old
-houses; and some run across the present streets, now visible above
-ground. This ditch, when perfect, admitted the water of the river quite
-round. Mr. Lockyer’s house is built upon subterraneous arches. They say
-here have been sixteen parish-churches, and foundations are to be found
-all the town over; and that the suburbs extended southward, especially
-on the Yeovil road, which formerly had a gate: it is not to be doubted
-but that there were gates at the passage of all the other streets. They
-say the bishop of Bath and Wells has a manuscript relating to the
-ancient state of this town. They have the same tradition as in many
-other places, that the old city was set on fire by matches tied to the
-tails of sparrows, let fly from a place called Stannard-cross hill. As
-soon as I came into the inn, (the Swan) I saw a great parcel of the
-little stones of a tesselated pavement, found but two days before, in a
-garden over the way near the river: a croud of people came immediately
-out of curiosity to see it, and tore it up: I saw some of the remainder
-_in situ_, about two foot deep, laid in strong mortar upon a hard
-gravelled floor: I made the owner melancholy with informing him what
-profit he might have got by preserving it, to show to strangers. The
-Foss-way retains its name, and makes the principal street: the pavement
-thereof, or the original ford across the river, may be seen on the
-west side of the bridge, made with great flag stones. Upon the bridge
-is an old chapel, called Little St. Mary’s: at the foot of the bridge
-within the town is another, called White-chapel; both converted into
-dwellings. Foundations of houses, chimney-pieces, and the like, have
-been dug up in the meads on the west side the town, and on both sides
-the river, with stone coffins and other funeral _apparatus_. The head
-of the mayor’s staff or mace is a piece of great antiquity in cast
-brass: there are four niches with four images, two kings, a queen, and
-an angel: it seems to have been the crosier of some religious house:
-round the bottom is wrote, in two lines, *+ JESU DE DRUERJE + NEME
-DUNETMJE*. In the northern angle beyond the old ditch of the city,
-towards the river, have been some bastions and modern fortifications,
-of the time of king Charles I.
-
-[Illustration: 72 ISCHALIS
- _17. Aug. 1723._
-
- a. _Little Sᵗ. Marys chappel_
- b. _where I saw a mosaic pavement_
- c. _pavement of Roman brick_
- ddd. _old Foundations_
- e. _pavement a cross the River_
- f. _Road to Limington &c._
- g. _White chapel_
-
- _Carolo Lockyer Ar. tab. d.d. W. Stukeley._
-
- _Stukeley del._ _I. Vᵈᵉʳ. Gucht Sculp._]
-
-Beyond the river is a village adjoining, called North-over, with a
-church; at Mrs. Hoddle’s, hard by, I saw a grey-hound bitch, from whose
-side a skewer of wood seven inches long had worked itself out from the
-stomach: we have some such rare cases in medicinal histories. They talk
-of a castle standing where now is the gaol, and that the tide came
-formerly up hither, though now it reaches not beyond Langport. West of
-this, some time since, they dug up some bones in a leaden case, as big
-as a band-box, laid in a hollowed stone; and near it, under a tree, was
-a vault of stone, where a body was found lying at full length. Langport
-is moted about, as they tell me, and probably was a Roman town. These
-were all the remarkables I met with at _Ischalis_, where I staid but
-half a day.
-
-[Sidenote: Foss _road_.]
-
-[Sidenote: +Hamden-hill.+ Ro. _camp_.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XLIV.]
-
-Hence I continued my journey along the Foss, which I observed paved
-with the original work in many parts: it is composed of the flat
-quarry-stones of the country, of a good breadth, laid edgewise, and so
-close that it looks like the side of a wall fallen down, and through
-the current of so many ages is not worn through: a glorious and
-useful piece of industry, and, to our shame, not imitated; for small
-reparation from time to time would have preserved it intire, and where
-it is so much wanted in a dirty country. As I rode, on my left hand
-I saw the pleasant view of Montacute hill, a copped round eminence
-incompassed at bottom with a broad verge of wood, so that it looks like
-a high-crowned hat with a fringed hat-band: here has been a castle and
-chapel at top, and below it a religious house built by the earl of
-Moriton in the time of William the Conqueror.[133] Another hill near
-it, much of the same figure. Between them and the Foss, upon the same
-hilly ridge, is a Roman camp called Hamden hill, with a double ditch
-about it; to which leads a vicinal Roman way from the Foss through
-Stoke. The Foss is very plain and strait hither, and to Petherton
-bridge near South Petherton, once the palace of king Ina: here was
-formerly a wooden bridge, but ruinous, where two children were drowned,
-as they say; whereupon their parents rebuilt it of stone, and caused
-their _effigies_ to be cut upon a stone which lies at the foot of the
-bridge. In a field not far off, two years ago a pot full of Roman coin,
-to the quantity of six pecks, was dug up. Beyond this the Foss grows
-intricate and obscure, from the many collateral roads made through the
-badness and want of reparation in the true one; yet it seems to run
-through Donington, which stands on a very high hill, and, when mounted,
-presents us with a vast scene of Devonshire. I suppose this Foss went
-on the east side of Chard, and so by Axminster and Culliton, to Seaton
-or _Moridunum_, where properly it begins; whence if we measure its
-noble length to the sea-coast in Lincolnshire, at Grimsby or Saltfleet,
-where I imagine it ends, it amounts to 250 Roman miles in a strait
-line from north-east to south-west. Your lordship presented me with
-an oyster, found a little northward of Axminster, where the very fish
-appears petrified with its cartilaginous concretion to the shell, all
-in their proper colours.
-
-[Sidenote: +Chard.+]
-
-The street of Chard runs directly east and west, where formerly was
-kept a large market on Sundays. Beyond this to Honiton is a very bad
-road of stones and sand, over brooks, spring-heads, and barren downs.
-From the hill-tops about Stockland I first had sight of the southern
-ocean; a most solemn view, a boundless extent of water thrown into a
-mighty horizontal curve. Beyond Honiton the scene of travelling mended
-apace, and the fine Devonshire prospects entertained the eye in a
-manner new and beautiful; for here the hills are very long and broad,
-the valleys between proportional, so that the vastly-extended concavity
-presented an immense landscape of pastures and hedge-rows distinct,
-like a map of an actual survey, and not beyond ken: these are full of
-springs, brooks, and villages, copses and gentlemen’s seats; and when
-you have passed over one hill, you see the like repeated before you,
-with Nature’s usual diversity. They told me of a great kairn, or heap
-of stones, on Black down, called Lapper-stones; probably a sepulchral
-monument.
-
-[Sidenote: +Isca Dumnoniorum.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LXXIII.]
-
-Exeter is the famous _Isca Dumnoniorum_ of the Romans, the last station
-this way in Antoninus his Itinerary; _pen cair_ of the Britons, the
-capital: it is a large and populous city, built upon a pleasant
-eminence on the eastern bank of the river _Ex_, or _Isca_ when
-latinised. I suppose the original word signifies no more than waters,
-like the French _eaux_, a collection of them, or several rivers, or
-branches of rivers, running parallel; and that whether it be wrote
-_Ax_, _Ex_, _Ix_, _Ox_, or _Ux_; of which many instances all over
-England. This river is navigable up to the city, but the tide comes
-not quite so high. The walls take in a very great compass, being a
-parallelogram of 3000 Roman feet long, 2000 broad; having a gate on
-every side: it lies oblique to the cardinal points of the compass,
-and objects its main declivity to the south-west. What adds to its
-wholesomeness and cleanliness, is that the ground is higher in a ridge
-along the middle of its length, declining on both sides: further, on
-the south-west and north-west sides it is precipicious: so that, with
-the river, the walls, the declivity of ground and ditch without side,
-it was a place of very great strength, and well chose for a frontier
-against the ancient _Corinavii_: it was built with a good omen, and
-has been ever in a flourishing condition. The walls are in pretty
-good repair, having many lunettes and towers, and make a walk
-round the city, with the advantage and pleasure of seeing the fine
-country on the opposite hills, full of wood, rich ground, orchards,
-villages and gentlemen’s houses. The beauty of the place consists
-mainly of one long street, running the length of the parallelogram,
-called High-street, broad and strait: the houses are of a very old,
-but good model, spacious, commodious, and not inelegant: this street
-is full of shops well furnished, and all sorts of trades look brisk.
-The people are industrious and courteous: the fair sex are truly so,
-as well as numerous; their complexions, and generally their hair
-likewise, fair: they are genteel, disengaged, of easy carriage and good
-mien. At Mr. Cole’s the goldsmith I saw an old ground-plot of this
-city in queen Elizabeth’s time: there has been since a vast increase
-of buildings within and without the city: the situation renders it
-of necessity clean, dry and airy. The soil hither from Honiton was
-rather sandy than stony, whence it must needs be very healthful; and
-it is of a convenient distance from the sea. They drive a great trade
-here for woollen manufacture in cloths, serges, stuffs, &c. all along
-the water-side innumerable tenters or racks for stretching them.
-Here is a good face of learning too; many booksellers’ shops: I saw
-a printed catalogue of an auction of books to be sold there. I saw
-the coloss head of the empress Julia Domna dug up near Bath, in Dr.
-Musgrave’s garden, which his father calls _Andromache_: the head-dress
-is like that of her times, and her bust at Wilton; nor is the manner
-and carving despisable: the graver has not done it justice. It is
-the noblest relique of British antiquity of this sort that we know:
-it is twenty-one inches from the top of the attire to the chin, and
-belonged to a statue of twelve foot proportion, set upon some temple
-or palace originally. In the same place is the inscription of Camillus
-published by him: I saw his library, a very good collection of books,
-coins and other antiquarian _supellex_; likewise a treatise, ready for
-publication, of the original gout, which he wrote thirty years ago,
-before his other two. The doctor had made this distemper his particular
-view through his long practice; and this country remarkably abounds
-with patients of that sort, which he attributes in a great measure to
-the custom of marling the lands with lime, and the great use of poor,
-sweet cyder, especially among the meaner people.
-
-[Illustration: 73 +Isca.+ _S. Sidwels_ +Dvmnoniorvm+.
- 19 Aug. 1723
-
- Gulielmo Musgrave M.D. Gulielmi filio Amico suo d.d. _W. Stukeley_
-
- _Stukeley delin._ _Parker sculp_]
-
-In the northern angle of the city, and highest ground, is Rugemont
-castle, once the royal residence of the West-Saxon kings, then of
-the earls of Cornwall: it is of a squarish figure, not very large,
-environed with a high wall and deep ditch: there is a rampire of earth
-within, equal in height to the top of the wall at present, and makes
-a terrace-walk overlooking the city and country. In the morning, the
-air being perfectly serene, and the sun shining, I observed from this
-place all the country southward, between the sea and Exeter, covered
-with a very thick fog; the west side of the city and country beyond it
-very clear. In this place is the assize-house and a chapel. In the wall
-of this castle is a narrow cavity quite round, perhaps for conveyance
-of a sound from turret to turret. Dr. Holland supposes this to have
-been a Roman work originally; and it is not unlikely that it was their
-_prætorium_, or garrison. Beyond the ditch is a pleasant walk of trees,
-and a little intrenched hill, called Danes castle.
-
-The cathedral is a good pile of building: two old towers stand on
-the north and south transept of the most ancient part: the organ is
-remarkably large; the diapason pipes fifteen inches diameter, and
-set against the pillars of the church: the west front of the church
-is full of old statues. Many religious foundations in the city are
-converted into streets and houses, full of numerous families and
-thriving inhabitants, instead of lazy monks and nuns. King Edward I. in
-the Saxon times founded the monastery of Exeter, anno 868: Athelstan
-enlarged it for the Benedictines in 932: Edward Confessor translated
-those monks to Westminster, and made this an episcopal see; not Edward
-III. as Mr. Camden says. Leofricus a Briton was the first bishop, and
-founder of the cathedral: he was chaplain to king Edward the Confessor,
-anno 1046: he gave his lands at Bampton in Oxfordshire to this church:
-he has a monument in the southern transept. Warewast, the third bishop,
-began to build the choir, 13 Henry I. Bishop Brewer created the dean
-and prebends in the time of Henry III. Bishop Quivel built the body of
-the church to the west end, 13 Edward I. he instituted the sub-dean and
-singing-men. Bishop Grandison lengthened the cathedral by two arches,
-and is buried in a little chapel in the west end: bishop Lacy began
-the chapter-house; bishop Nevil finished it: bishop Courtney built the
-north tower, or rather repaired it, and gave that large bell called
-_Peter_: the dean and chapter built the cloysters. St. Mary’s chapel,
-at the end of the choir, is now turned into a library: this, I suppose,
-is what bishop Leofric built. The bishop’s throne in the choir is a
-lofty Gothic work. Here are many monuments of bishops in the cathedral.
-
-The present deanery, they say, was a nunnery. The monastery of St.
-Andrew at Cowic was founded by Thomas Courtney earl of Devon; a cell
-to Bec abbey in Normandy: it was dissolved in the time of Edward III.
-Roger Holland, I suppose duke of Exeter, lived in it in the time
-of Edward VI. St. Nicholas’ priory was a cell to Battle abbey: St.
-John’s was of Augustine friers: Polesloe, a mile off, dedicate to St.
-Catharine, a nunnery of the Benedictine order: Marsh was a cell to
-Plympton: Cleve was a monastery of Black canons; St. James’ priory,
-of Cluniac monks: Grey friers, without South-gate, were Franciscans;
-Gold-hays, without West-gate, Black friers: the Bear inn was the abbot
-of Tavistock’s house; the Blacklion too was a religious house; Lathbier
-another, near the new river below Radford mount. Thus had these holy
-locusts well nigh devoured the land.
-
-In Corry lane, over-against St. Paul’s church, is a little old house
-called King Athelstan’s, said to have been his palace, built of large
-square stones, and circular arches over the doors: it seems indeed to
-have been originally a Roman building, though other later works have
-been added to the doors and windows: over the door in the street is a
-very small niche crouded into the wall, as if it had been converted
-into a religious house: in the yard a winding stone stair-case is
-added. One arch of South-gate seems to be Roman. No doubt the walls of
-the city are upon the Roman foundation for the most part, and great
-numbers of antiquities have been found here. In digging behind the
-guild-hall in Pancras-lane, they found a great Roman pavement of little
-white square stones eight foot deep. A pot of Roman coin of two pecks
-was dug up, two years ago, near St. Martin’s church: I saw some of
-them in Dr. Musgrave’s possession, of Gordian, Balbinus, Philippus,
-Julia Mæsa, Geta, Gallienus, and the like. Mr. Loudham, surgeon in this
-city, has many of them among his curious collection of antiquities,
-manuscripts, &c. Mr. Reynolds the schoolmaster is a great collector
-and preserver of such learned remains. St. Mary Arches church, and St.
-Stephen’s Bow, by their names seem to have been built out of Roman
-temples.
-
-[Illustration: 75 MORIDVNVM Aug. 20 1723.
-
- A. _Seaton._ B. _Salt pans._ C. _Watch tower._ D. _Portland._
- _Stukeley del._]
-
-[Illustration: 74 Prospect of Exeter 19 Aug. 1723.
- ISCA Dumnoniorum.
-
- _Stukeley del._]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LXXIV.]
-
-The bridge over the _Isca_ is of great length, and has houses on
-both sides and both ends; a considerable void space in the middle:
-there is a church upon it with a tower-steeple. In the Guild-hall
-are the pictures of general Monk, and the princess Henrietta Maria,
-born at Bedford-house, a palace in this city, during the civil wars.
-The composition of the stone of this country is intirely made of
-little black pebbles, incrusted in a sandy matter of a red colour and
-mouldering nature.
-
-[Sidenote: +Moridunum.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LXXV.]
-
-Leaving Exeter, my farthest western longitude at present, I steered my
-course back again along the sea-side, inwrapped in contemplation with
-the poet,
-
- _Undæ quæ vestris pulsatis littora lymphis,
- Littora quæ dulces auras diffunditis agris!_ +Virg.+
-
-[Sidenote: +Honey-Ditches.+ _a Camp_.
-
-Nor could I think myself alone, when so much new entertainment was
-presented to me every minute. Much rock-samphire grows upon these
-cliffs. The Roman road seems to have crossed the Otter at Hertford. At
-Woodbury is a camp. I passed by Sidmouth, and came to Seaton, a little
-village upon the mouth of the river Ax. This Mr. Camden conjectures to
-have been the Roman _Moridunum_, and with reason: it has been a great
-haven and excellent port, of which they still keep up the memory: the
-river runs in a large valley, having high ground on each side: the
-shore is rocky, high and steep, consisting of the ends of hills which
-here run north and south: the ground at bottom under the rocks is
-marly; the waves wash it down perpetually, undermining the _strata_ of
-stone, which from time to time fall down in great parcels. At present
-this haven mouth, which is a good half-mile over, is filled up with
-beach, as they call it; that is, coggles, gravel, sand, shells, and
-such matter as is thrown up by the roll of the ocean: so that the river
-water has but a very narrow passage on the east side under the cliff.
-The beach was covered over with _papaver luteum corniculatum_, now in
-blossom: the people in the isle of Portland call it _squat maw_, i. e.
-bruise herb, and use it in that case, no doubt with good success, where
-both intentions are answered, of dissolving the coagulated blood, and
-easing pain. On the west side, near Seaton, upon a little eminence is a
-modern ruined square _Pharos_ built of brick; they remember it sixteen
-foot high; and two guns lie there. They say there were formerly many
-great foundations of houses visible nearer the sea than the present
-town, but now swallowed up; and in all likelihood there stood the Roman
-city. More inward toward the land, beyond the great bank of beach, is a
-marsh which the sea has made, landing itself up when its free flux was
-hindered: this is full of salt-pans, into which they take the sea-water
-at high tides. When they dig these places they find innumerable keels
-and pieces of vessels, with nails, pitch, anchors, &c. six or eight
-foot deep, because it was formerly part of the haven: anchors have
-been found as high as Axminster, and beyond it, though now there is no
-navigation at all: so great a change has Time produced in the face of
-Nature, upon these confines of the two great elements always opposing
-each other.
-
- _Sic volvenda ætas commutat tempora rerum._ +Lucr. V.+
-
-Half a mile off, upon higher ground, on the western side is a castle
-in a pasture, but formerly tilled, called Honey Ditches: it is moted
-about, and perhaps walled; for they dig up much square stone there. The
-place is an oblong square, containing about three acres: I guess it to
-have been the garrison of the port. Just by the present haven-mouth is
-a great and long pier or wall, jutting out into the sea, made of great
-rocks piled together to the breadth of six yards. They told me it
-was built many years ago by one Courd, once a poor sailor, who, being
-somewhere in the Mediterranean, was told by a certain Greek, that much
-treasure was hid upon Hogsdon hill near here, and that this memorial
-was transmitted to him by his ancestors: Courd, upon his return digging
-there, luckily found the golden mine, which enriched him prodigiously;
-so that at his own expence he built this wall, with an intent to
-restore the harbour. The people hereabouts firmly believe the story,
-and many have dug in the place with like hopes; and as an argument of
-its truth, they say some of his family are still remaining, that live
-upon their estate got by him.
-
-A mile higher on the same western side of the river is Cullyford, where
-was the ancient road from London to Exeter passing over at Axbridge,
-which is now a stony ford, with two bridges that traverse the valley
-and the river, once a haven. Here have been many inns and houses, and
-a considerable town. They talk of great stone vaults being found; so
-that it probably arose from the destruction of _Moridunum_, as Culliton
-adjacent, from it. Further, it was a corporation, and they now keep up
-their claim by an annual choice of a mayor, who has a mace too, but I
-suppose not of great elegance.
-
-[Sidenote: +Londinis.+]
-
-[Sidenote: +Lyme.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LXXVI.]
-
-Lyme lies upon the sea-side, in the cavity between two mountains, the
-_Londinis_ of Ravennas according to Mr. Baxter. Here is a bold stony
-shore, the ridges of the hills jutting out into the sea; but broken off
-continually, and wasted away, by the waves as before: the ground too
-is clay and stone. Their method of opposing its violence is to throw
-out a wall of huge dry stones, which by time gathers the beech, and
-consolidates to a greater breadth. Besides, here is a great artificial
-pier, called the Cobb, extended to the length of 1000 foot with a bow
-into the ocean, where ships lie secure from the impetuous surges. Here
-are two little forts, one with five, another with three guns. A large
-sort of sea horse-tail grows plentifully upon these clayey cliffs; and
-many little springs issue thereout in the face of the briny deep, which
-loosen the earth, and hasten its continual downfall. I took notice
-that the declivity of the hills, with the veins of stone and different
-_strata_ of earth in these cliffs, is ever north-west, just as is the
-appearance of the Isle of Portland hence, and with the same angle.
-The town of Lyme has a pretty good appearance. A small river runs in
-a rocky _alveus_ through the middle of it into the sea. Most of their
-buildings are of a rag-stone, blue, not very durable. The duke of
-Monmouth landed at this place just by the pier with only twelve men:
-many of his party were executed on the spot afterwards, their limbs
-hung up in the town. Before that time the duke of Tuscany came here on
-shore in his visit to Britain. This is called Lime-Regis.
-
-[Sidenote: +Icening-street.+]
-
-[Sidenote: +Aggerdon.+]
-
-Here entering Dorsetshire, I journeyed along the coast, in view of the
-ocean, and Portland isle growing more and more distinct, till I came
-to Bridport, a large town upon a little river. Ascending a high hill,
-I found myself upon the great downs of chalk like those at Salisbury,
-and, much to my surprize, infinitely fuller of Celtic barrows than your
-lordship’s celebrated plains. What matters of that sort I discovered
-shall be referred to another discourse. A little north of Bridport I
-found the great Icening-street of the Romans going to Dorchester,
-which I accompanied with no small pleasure. I imagine it goes a little
-farther up the country than I had travelled, and hereabouts may
-properly be said to begin, probably meeting the Foss at _Moridunum_.
-The road from _Moridunum_ westward through Exeter I think ought not
-to be denominated either from the one or the other, because
-of a different direction, which with reasonable allowance I esteem
-essential: but this road we are upon, which is the parallel and sister
-to the Foss, from Seaton to Yarmouth in Norfolk, extends to the like
-quantity of 250 Roman miles. In this place it is called the Ridge-way,
-both as it rises in an artificial ridge, and as it takes a high ridge
-all the way between here and Dorchester, having many valleys on both
-sides. The composition of the road is wholly of flints gathered off the
-lands, or taken from near the surface: these were laid in a fine bank,
-and so covered with turf. As I road along I found it frequently makes
-great curves to avoid passing over valleys, and industriously keeps
-on the highest ground, and commands the prospect of the country every
-where: it goes to Eggardon hill, as they tell me, north of Bridport;
-and here I suppose is a camp, whence the whole hundred is denominated:
-whether from this camp, or from this road, it is plain the old Latin
-word is retained, _agger_; therefore _aggerdon_, as it ought to be
-wrote, is the hill intrenched, or the down where the high road runs.
-
-[Illustration: 76 Prospect of Lyme 21 Aug. 1723.
-
- LONDINIS.
-
- A. _Where the Duke of Monmouth Landed_
- B. _Portland_
- C. _The Peer._
-
- _Stukeley del._]
-
-[Illustration: 77 +Dvrnovaria+
- _Aug. 22. 1723_
-
- _Stukeley delin._]
-
-[Illustration: 78 _Augˢᵗ: 22. 1723_
- _Prospect of Dorchester from the Amphitheater._
-
- _Stukeley Del._]
-
-The Icening-street derives its name not from beginning, but ending,
-at the Iceni, _via ad Icenos_. They say hereabouts it was cast up in
-a night’s time by the devil, referring to a supernatural agent the
-effect of Roman wisdom and industry. It enters the city of Dorchester
-by the north of Winterburn at West-gate. In divers places they have
-mended it where wore out, by a small slip of chalk and flints, with a
-shameful and degenerate carelessness; so that we may well pronounce the
-Romans worked with shovels, the moderns with tea-spoons: besides, it
-is mostly inclosed and obstructed with perpetual gates across it, to
-the great hindrance of travellers, to whom public ways ought to be laid
-open and free; and the authors of such nusances may well be declared
-sacrilegious. An endless fund of Celtic as well as Roman inquiries
-hereabouts, and no where less regarded.
-
-[Sidenote: +Durnovaria.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LXXVII.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LXXVIII.]
-
-Dorchester, the Roman _Durnovaria_, meaning the passage over the river,
-is a good regular town, standing conformable to the four cardinal
-points, with the river on its north side: it had four gates in the
-middle of each side, was encompassed with a strong wall and ditch, if
-not two; for so it seems, though now levelled into arable, to which
-the inhabitants hereabout are extremely prone. On the west side great
-part of the old Roman wall is standing, twelve foot thick, made of
-rag-stone, laid side by side and obliquely, then covered over with
-very strong mortar: the next course generally leans the contrary way:
-now and then three horizontal ones for binding, for much flint is used
-withal. I saw the foundation of it in a saw-pit laid upon the solid
-chalk: it is yet twelve foot high, broke through and battered every
-where, as if the sight of it was obnoxious: this is a strong manner
-of building, and very expeditious. Much more of this wall remained
-within memory. It would surprise one to think why the very ruins of
-it should be pulled down, which must be done with great labour, and
-frequently a mud wall erected in its place. The foundations appear
-quite round the town; but eastward a street is built upon it, and
-the ditch filled up: it is still called The Walls; for that way the
-town is swelled out into a considerable village, with a church and
-handsome tower, called Fordington, corruptly Farington. Here are three
-churches in the town beside it. On the south and west side, without
-the walls, a handsome walk of trees is planted, looking pleasantly
-into the fields; but the sort of them being common sycamores, are
-incommodious by harbouring flies. The winding of the river on the
-north spoils the square of the town that way; and there is an _area_
-of a castle, out of the ruins of which the grey friers built their
-convent: but now all the works are wholly obliterated, religious and
-military. The banks of the river here are steep, for the town stands
-on high ground. Beyond the river are meadows and warm sandy lands; on
-this side, the fine chalky downs, pleasant for riding, and profitable
-in excellent grain. The air must needs be wholesome and pure, the
-climate warm, and a sufficient distance from the sea; so that we need
-not wonder if the Romans were fond of this place. The level of the old
-city was much lower than the present; for antiquities, which are found
-in great number, always lie deep. Some farmers were levelling another
-great barrow; but the people of Fordington rose in arms and prevented
-them with a laudable animosity. All this land is of the prince’s fee.
-I took notice of a particularity in the stone they use here: it is
-fetched from a quarry southward in the way to Weymouth; a flag-stone,
-rising in large dimensions, but not very thick: the superfice of it is
-curiously and regularly indented or waved, like a mat made of cables,
-and that very regularly: it much resembles the face of the sands upon
-the sea shore, just after the tide is gone off: it is very convenient
-for paving, and those natural undulations prevent slipperiness, being
-nevertheless level enough: they make fences for their grounds with it
-in many places, setting them up edgewise in a pretty method. The Roman
-money dug up here are called _dorn-pennies_, or king Dor’s money: the
-reverend Mr. Place, living here, showed me a great collection of them.
-Much _opus tessellatum_ has been found. As this town, so Wareham below
-from its ford derives its name. In Lincolnshire we call them still
-_warths_.
-
-From Dorchester many Roman roads disperse themselves, beside the
-Icening-street, passing directly over the meadows to Walton: one goes
-by the amphitheatre southward to Weymouth; another by Poundbury,
-Stretton, to Yeovil and Ischalis; another probably to Wareham.
-
-[Sidenote: +Poundbury+ _a_ Ro. _Camp_.]
-
-Poundbury, I am intirely persuaded, was a camp of Vespasian’s, when he
-was busy hereabouts in the conquest of the _Belgæ_, therefore ancienter
-than the adjacent Roman city: the situation, the bulk, and the manner
-of it, so much resembling that by Ambsbury, engages me into that
-sentiment: it stands half a mile west of Dorchester, upon the brink
-of the river, which is very steep, in form square: the rampart high,
-but the ditch inconsiderable, except at the angle by the river; the
-reason is, because standing on high ground, they dug the earth clear
-away before it, and threw it intirely into a _vallum_; so that its
-height and steepness, wherein its strength consists, is the same as if
-a regular ditch was made in level ground. The chief entrance was on
-the south side: there seems likewise to have been an entrance next the
-river, but made with great art; for a narrow path is drawn all along
-between the edge of the precipice and the _vallum_, so that it was
-absolutely impossible to force an entry that way: beside, I observe,
-beyond the camp, for a long way, a small trench is cut upon the said
-edge, which seems designed to prevent the ascent of cavalry, if they
-should pass the river: the ground of the camp rises in the middle, as
-was usual among the Romans in their choice. There is a _tumulus_ too,
-which I imagine is Celtic, and extant before the camp was made: this
-levelled a little might serve for the _prætorium_. A very good prospect
-from hence all around. The name is taken from its inclosure as a pound;
-for here they call a circle of stones round a _tumulus_, a pound.
-
-[Sidenote: +Maiden Castle.+ _a_ Ro. _Camp_.]
-
-The other camp, called Maiden Castle, was undoubtedly the _Æsiiva_ of
-the Durnovarian garrison:[134] it is of a vast extent, and prodigiously
-strong, apparently of much later date than the foregoing, its
-manner savouring of inferior times of the empire: it has every where
-a double ditch of extraordinary depth, and a double rampire, in some
-places treble or more: it takes in the whole summit of a great hill:
-within it seems as if two camps, a ditch and _vallum_ running across,
-with each its entry of very perplexed work; several ditches with cross
-entries lapping over one another, as we may well express it; especially
-westward, where their number may be affirmed half a score. Certainly,
-for healthful air and prospect, a most delightful place;
-
- _Heic Veneris vario florentia serta decore,
- Purpureo campos quæ pingit avena colore.
- Hinc auræ dulces, hinc suavis spiritus agri._ +Virg.+
-
-and, for sight of barrows, I believe not to be equalled in the
-world; for they reach ten miles. What further remains to be said of
-Dorchester, is the noble amphitheatre, of which your lordship first
-gave me the hint; therefore most justly are you intitled to the
-following description of it.
-
-[Illustration: 61 VINDOMA. _4 Aug. 1722_
-
- Peritura Moenia Stylo renovavit _Ger. Vander Gucht_.
-
- _Stukeley Designavit._]
-
-
- _Of the_ ROMAN AMPHITHEATRE _at_ Dorchester.
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LXI. XCVII.]
-
-There was no kind of civil edifice, or public work, more frequent among
-the Romans, in Italy or the conquered provinces, than such as related
-to sports and games; for that brave and wise people both judged and
-found that method well calculated to bring over the nations to their
-own language and customs, being agreeable contrivances that seemed
-rather pleasure and delight than compulsion. Such were theatres, circs,
-amphitheatres, _stadia_, and the like. There were three amphitheatres
-in the city of Rome; that of Vespasian, the Castrense, and of Statilius
-Taurus: and, though we find them not so particularly taken notice of
-elsewhere in historians, yet we behold the things themselves, whose
-immense bulk and weighty materials have generally so long out-faced
-time and weather. We may affirm, there was scarce any colony or free
-city, of considerable note, in their extensive empire, that wanted
-these places of public pastime; and scarce any province now, where
-their footsteps at least are not visible, and many almost intire,
-particularly what we are now treating upon, amphitheatres: yet I
-believe it will appear a novelty to most people, when we shall talk of
-such curious antiquities in Britain. But since this time twelve-months,
-I have seen three, one at Silchester, another at Richborough castle
-in Kent, and this at Dorchester in Dorsetshire. I have been told of
-one with six tire of seats, three mile off Redruth in Cornwall. Sir
-Christopher Wren is the first person that I know of who gave this hint
-of inquiry, in discovering this, many years ago, in his journeys to
-the isle of Portland, when he began to build St. Paul’s cathedral.
-Great pity it is that he did not take an exact description of it at
-that time, when in greater perfection, before the gallows were removed
-hither by an unlucky humour of the sheriff; since when the parapet
-at top is on that side much beaten down, by the trampling of men and
-horses at executions; but especially because his great skill might have
-done it exact justice, and by means of his pen it might have shared
-in the duration of his works. In defect of such illustration, I hope
-the reader will accept of my mean endeavours to preserve so valuable
-a piece of architecture, which, notwithstanding the damage above
-mentioned, and that the _area_ of it has been ploughed up these many
-years, will still give a spectator a fine notion in the structures of
-this sort abroad, deservedly the admiration of travellers; and will
-present a person of understanding, the pleasure of observing the noble
-and great genius of the Romans in every production of their hands. Nor
-does the meanness of its materials debase, but rather inhance, its
-value and its art; for, though less costly and lasting than stone and
-marble, of which others are generally built, yet for the same reason
-less liable to rapine, and the covetous humour of such as plunder them
-for other uses: therefore I believe, in the main, it is as perfect as
-most abroad, if not so alluring to the eye; whence we may suppose it
-has so long escaped common observation, though close by a great town
-and road.
-
-An amphitheatre is properly a double theatre, or two theatres joined
-together. A theatre is a semicircle wherein are the seats of the
-spectators; the _apparatus_ of the actors, or scenes, filling up the
-diameter before it. But if we would be more exact, we shall observe,
-it is half as long again as the _radius_; for they cut off the fourth
-part of a circle, then the rest became the form of their theatres.
-Now two such as these joined together, throwing away the scenic part,
-constituted an amphitheatre; taking its name from circular vision,
-and because the seats were continued quite round, the faces of the
-people being all directed to the centre of its excentricity: so its
-use required, different from that of the theatre, where the company
-look all one way toward the stage. But then, as Lipsius takes notice
-in discoursing upon this topic, the lines, at the ends where they are
-conjoined, must be drawn outward a little, approaching more to strait
-lines, than it becomes a true oval, well expressed by Cassiodorus;
-“for, (says he) the _area_ includes the figure of an egg, which affords
-due space for combatants, and more advantage to spectators to see every
-thing by its long curvity or relaxed circle.” These were not put in
-practice at Rome till the end of the commonwealth, and appropriated to
-the hunting and fighting of wild-beasts, to gladiators and the like;
-and at last to sea engagements, represented in gallies floating upon
-the water, which they introduced for that purpose. First of all, they
-made them _pro tempore_ of timber, being two theatres, each fixed upon
-a wonderful _axis_, and so contrived, that when they pleased they
-could turn both together, with all the people on their seats, and
-make an amphitheatre; of which Pliny, xxxv. 15. speaks with a note
-of astonishment, as it really was. This was done by C. Curio, one of
-Cæsar’s party. It is worth while to read the great naturalist’s descant
-upon it. This I suppose gave occasion to the building of regular
-amphitheatres, of which Cæsar made the first in the _Campus Martius_,
-but of wood, when he was dictator. The first of stone was erected in
-Augustus his time, by Statilius Taurus, in the place of the former,
-which was the only one till Vespasian, whose work was the monstrous
-_Colissæum_, but finished by his son Titus. This has afforded materials
-for many public buildings in Rome, and still boasts its immense ruins,
-as one of the greatest prodigies of the imperial city.
-
-Vitruvius mentions nothing of amphitheatres; therefore he probably
-published his book before that of Taurus was built: as for Cæsar’s,
-it belonged not to masonry, being carpenter’s work; in which he was a
-very great master, as in every thing else: so that we must form our
-notions of these things from the works themselves, and the ruins that
-time has spared. The parts of an amphitheatre are these: the _arena_
-or space within, the scene of action; the _euripus_, or river that
-generally encompassed the verge of it; the _podium_, or parapet at
-bottom; the _itinera_, or _viæ_, which were the walks between certain
-series of seats; the _ascensus_, steps or stairs; the _pulpita_ or
-_tribunalia_, a sort of covered chair of state, where the emperor, his
-legate, the prætor or chief magistrate of a city, sat; the _cathedræ_,
-where the senators, foreign ambassadors, and great personages, sat;
-the _gradus_, or common seats; the _præcinctiones_, which I suppose
-balustrades; the _aditus_ or _vomitoria_, being the passages from the
-stairs withinside to the seats, a metaphorical name, from the people
-pouring themselves through them with violence; the _cunei_, which
-were the space of seats comprehended between two of those passages,
-so called from their wedge-like shape; the _porticus_, or galleries
-within, partly for magnificence, and partly for convenience: all these
-particulars are easily apprehended from inspection of schemes and
-sections of these works in many authors. Some of them could not, others
-need not to be in our work; therefore I shall occasionally enlarge
-upon those pertinent to this subject, as they fall in our way in the
-description.
-
-[Illustration: 50 _The Geometrical Groundplot of the Roman Amphitheatre
- at Dorchester_
- _Aug. 22. 1723._
-
- _Stukeley designʳ._]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LXXVII.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LXXVIII.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. L.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LIII.]
-
-The amphitheatre at Dorchester is situate on a plain in the open
-fields about a quarter of a mile (being just 300 of my paces) or 1500
-foot south-west from the walls of the town, delicately ascending all
-the way, close by the Roman road running from thence to Weymouth. The
-vulgar call it Maumbury, but have no notion of its purpose, though
-it is a common walk for the inhabitants, and the terrace at top is a
-noted place of rendezvous, as affording a pleasant circular walk, and
-a prospect of the town and wide plain of corn fields all around, much
-boasted of by the inhabitants for most excellent grain. Westward of
-the town we see the Roman camp called Poundbury, and southward the
-most famous one Maiden castle, both before described. More southerly
-all the hill-tops, as far as the eye reaches, are covered with an
-incredible number of Celtic barrows. It stands upon the very edge of
-that part of the fields which declines gently northward, or toward the
-town, upon a chalk, and which without doubt at first was perfect down,
-like that of Salisbury plain, or the neighbouring downs in the way to
-Bridport. One may in fancy imagine the beauty of its prospect, and
-the pleasantness of the walk hither upon that fine carpet, when all
-was in its first perfection; but at present it is ploughed up to the
-very skirt of the amphitheatre, both within and without: so foolishly
-greedy are the country people of an inch of ground, that they have
-levelled several barrows lately in the neighbourhood, which cost more
-than the spot they covered will pay in fifty years. This work of ours
-is raised of solid chalk upon the level, without any ditch about it. I
-have endeavoured to delineate, as exactly as I could by mensuration,
-the true and original ground-plot thereof, or architectonic design upon
-which it is formed, from what is left by the injuries of age, of the
-plough, of men and beasts; and that in its first and genuine scale the
-Roman foot, which is about an eleventh part less than ours. The plate
-Nᵒ 50, represents the amphitheatre as covered with the _subsellia_,
-and as in its primitive perfection; for we may well suppose age has
-diminished it on all dimensions: and in truth it requires a great
-deal of thought and judgement to attempt to measure it. It is obvious
-thence to observe, in the general, its conformity with other works of
-this sort abroad, as far as its different materials will allow; and
-the great judgement of the architect in varying his scheme thereto, so
-as fully to answer the proposed end. It is to be noted that half this
-work is above, and half below the surface of the ground, as visible in
-a section; so that great part of the matter was dug out of the _cavea_
-in the middle; for it is a solid bed of chalk, and the rest fetched
-from elsewhere. I believe the method of building it, was to join solid
-chalk cut square like stones, and that mortar made of burnt chalk was
-run into the joints; and probably all the outside was neatly laid with
-scantlings of the same, but with the natural turf on: so that it is not
-much inferior in strength to those of stone, though infinitely less
-expensive; but for use and convenience there is very little difference;
-and as to beauty, as far as relates to the seats, and what was visible
-on the inside, our work no doubt was very handsome, and even now is a
-very pleasant sight. It is observed of most amphitheatres abroad, that
-they are placed without the cities for wholesomness, and upon elevated
-ground for benefit of the air, and perflation; a thing much recomended
-for theatres in Vitruvius; as that of Bourdeaux, 400 paces without
-the city. Besides, this is very artfully set upon the top of a plain,
-declining to the north-east; whereby the rays of the sun, falling upon
-the ground hereabouts, are thrown off to a distance by reflection, and
-the upper end of the amphitheatre, for the major part of the day, has
-the sun behind the spectators.
-
-When you stand in the centre of the entrance, it opens itself with all
-the grandeur that can be imagined: the jambs are wore away somewhat,
-and the plough encroaches on its verge every year, especially the
-cheeks below: never did I see corn growing, which of itself is an
-agreeable sight, with so much indignation as in this noble concavity,
-where once the _gens togata_, and majesty of imperial Rome, used to
-show itself. The conjugate, or shortest diameter externally, is to the
-longest as 4 to 5; that of the _area_ within, as 2 to 3: this is the
-same proportion as of the amphitheatre at Lucca, which is 195 _brachia_
-in length, 130 broad: a _brachium_ is about 23½ of our inches: it is 25
-high. In ours therefore the two centres upon the transverse diameter,
-or longest that form it, are 100 feet distant: the ends of the oval
-are struck with a _radius_ of 60 feet set upon each of those centres.
-The centres that describe the side-lines are formed by setting off 85
-feet on each side the diameter, from the centre of excentricity. Thus
-from these four centres only the whole is delineated, and that most
-easily and naturally; whence I suspect Desgodetz, in laying down his
-plot of the _Coliseum_, has without necessity employed no less than
-eight centres, which is an operation of great perplexity: but still
-we except the circle in the middle, which so remarkably distinguishes
-this from all other works, and which gives so great a beauty to
-the scheme: this is that artful contrivance supplying the place of
-portico’s, stair-cases, _vomitoria_, and all the costly work in the
-grander amphitheatres, for ready conveyance of the spectators in and
-out to their proper places: it is described from the common centre of
-the whole, and in the ground-plot is a true circle; but upon the place
-becomes a walk of eight foot broad, gradually ascending, from the ends
-upon the long diameter, to its highest elevation in the middle upon
-the short diameter, where it reaches half-way up the whole series of
-seats of the spectators, who marching hence distribute themselves
-therein from all sides without hurry and tumult. On the top is a
-terrace twelve feet broad at least, beside the parapet outwardly five
-feet broad, four high. There are three ways leading up to this; at the
-upper end of the work, over the cave, one; and one on each side upon
-the shortest diameter, going from the elevated part of the circular
-walk: horses very conveniently, several a-breast, may go upon this,
-and frequently do, ascending by the ruin of the cave, but not on the
-outward steep. The parapet is now three or four foot high, but much
-ruined on that side next the gallows since last year, at an execution:
-not only so, but I saw a mixen heap laid under it on that side; and
-some vile fellow had been digging down part of the amphitheatre to lay
-among it for compost. There is some enormity, if one examines this
-work in mathematical strictness without proper judgement: because it
-stands on a declivity, some parts of the out-side are higher
-than others, not only as to the same side, but as to the same part
-on different sides: the plain on which it stands, declines to the
-north-east: hence the outer side of the work is higher there than in
-other places; therefore in my sections and ground-plot I endeavour to
-reduce it to a medium, and the measure which seems to have been the
-primary intent of the architect.
-
-[Illustration: 52 _A view of Dorchester Amphitheatre from the South
- West._
-
- _Stukeley Del. Aug. 1723._]
-
-[Illustration: 53 _The Side View of Dorchester Amphitheater._
-
- _Stukeley delin._]
-
-[Illustration: 51 _A View of Dorchester Amphitheatre from the
- Entrance._]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LIII.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XLII. 2d Vol.]
-
-The cave, or receptacle of the gladiators, wild beasts, &c. I suppose
-to have been at the upper end, under the ascent to the terrace, being
-vaults under that part of the body of the work: whether they were of
-the same chalk, or timber, or whether they were arched with brick
-or stone, or what other matter, I cannot say; but the ruin thereof
-seems to be the reason of the present deformity at that end; so that
-it is not easy to guess at its original profile. We may observe that
-the parapet and terrace go back there, and, taking a new sweep, fall
-beyond the line of the outer oval; for two reasons, as I conceive:
-1st, Because by that means there is a greater length obtained for the
-ascent to the terrace, which makes it more gradual and easy: 2dly,
-Thereby more space is procured for the apartments of the prisoners
-under ground. By the section lengthwise, it is easily understood that
-I suppose a passage quite through, or subterraneous gallery upon that
-end of the longest diameter, under the ascent to the terrace, from the
-out-side into the _area_: this must open at the bottom of the _podium_,
-as was practised in other works of like nature, with a squarish door,
-as Varro tells us, _de re rustica_. “The door (says he) ought to be low
-and narrow, of that sort which they call a _cochlea_, as is wont to be
-in the cave where the bulls are shut up for fight.” The entrance to
-this place might be from without-side the amphitheatre: here is no want
-of room for the door within; for the level of the _area_ was at least
-twelve feet lower than the _podium_, like our pit at the play-houses;
-and it is probable there was a descent of the whole level this way,
-to draw off the rain into some subterraneous passage: the _podium_ in
-the _castrensian_ amphitheatre is monstrously high. Our _area_, no
-doubt, is exceedingly elevated by manuring, ploughing, and ruins: yet
-it preserves a dish-like concavity, through innumerable injuries; for
-the descent from the entrance is very great, and you go down as into a
-pit. I conjecture the middle part of the _area_ is now ten foot lower
-than the level of the field: but the field itself, especially about the
-entrance, is much lowered by ploughing, because the end of the circular
-walk there, which should be even with the ground, is a good deal above
-it. The dens and caves of the wild beasts at the great circ in Rome
-were only of earth and wood, till Claudius the emperor built them of
-marble. This ruin at the upper end is very considerable; for it has so
-filled the _arena_ thereabouts, that the cattle plough up to the very
-_præcinctio_. On the out-side is a large round tumour, a considerable
-way beyond the exterior verge, and regular in figure, which certainly
-has been somewhat appertaining to the work: I could wish that a careful
-person had liberty of digging into it. Moreover, this _podium_ had a
-parapet of earth, if not a balustrade, as was usual in others: behind
-this, upon the lowermost seat, was the place of the senators and chief
-persons, who often had chairs or cushions: this was the best place for
-seeing and hearing, as being nearest the _arena_; whence Juvenal says,
-
- ————————_generosior & Marcellis,
- Et Catulis Paulique minoribus et Fabiis &
- Omnibus ad podium spectantibus_.————
-
-So Suetonius, in _Augusto_, says, the senate made an order, that the
-first or lowest seat at public spectacles should be left for them:
-probably this was broader than any other seat, with a greater space
-between the _podium_ and next seat, for more ease. The chair of state
-for the _prætor_ was on one side, and probably another opposite to
-it for the emperor, or his legate, which was reserved empty, for
-state, in their absence; or for the _editor_ of the shows, who was
-generally thus distinguished: and it is remarkable that a little
-prominence is still left in these very places. These were set in the
-middle of the _podium_, on each side, upon the shortest diameter,
-and were covered with canopies like a tabernacle. This _podium_ had,
-for greater safety, grates, nets, and lattice work of iron, or more
-costly metal, supported by pillars, and the like: beside, there were
-rollers of wood or ivory length-wise, which hindered the beasts from
-climbing up, by their turning round, as is particularly described
-by Calpurnius. And, moreover, in greater amphitheatres, there was a
-ditch full of water under it, called _euripus_, first introduced by
-Julius Cæsar. In the early times of these buildings, the people sat
-all together promiscuously; but after the emperors, the places were
-distinguished according to the degrees of quality, senators, knights,
-or common people. The knights seats were next to the senators, fourteen
-deep in number; so that _gradus quatuordecim_ became a phrase for
-the equestrian order. We may suppose these two degrees filled all
-the seats in our amphitheatre under the circular walk or ascent. The
-common people possessed the remainder, or the whole concavity above
-the circular walk, taking the best places as they came first: but the
-uppermost seats were reserved particularly for the women; and one
-reason of their distance was, I suppose, because the gladiators were
-naked. And that no routs and confusions should disturb the order of
-these solemnities, there were proper officers appointed, that took care
-none should presume to sit out of the seats suitable to his degree.
-
-I imagine the terrace at top in our work was designed for the men
-of arms: for they are by no means to be excluded, seeing one of the
-primary intents of these diversions was to inure them, as well as the
-people, to blood and murder. Hence, before they went upon any great
-expedition, or foreign war, these feasts and butcheries were publicly
-celebrated: and in my opinion, the two rising plots, that are squarish
-on each side upon the shortest diameter, were for the officers. These
-are above the level of the walk, or terrace, and might possibly have a
-tent set upon them for that purpose. I call them pavilions: they are
-of a handsome turn, and capable each of holding two dozen of people
-commodiously: their side-breadth is fifteen foot; their length, i. e.
-north and south, twenty: they are somewhat nearer the upper end, not
-standing precisely upon the shortest diameter, and four foot above the
-level of the terrace. I considered with care that seeming irregularity
-of the terrace on both sides the lower end; for it is higher within
-side than without, yet so as to produce no ill effect below, either
-within or without, but the contrary. I find it is a master-piece of
-skill, and am surprised that it has not been more defaced in so long
-time. The matter is this: the work standing on a declining plain, this
-artifice was necessary to render its appearance regular; for when you
-stand in the centre within-side, the whole circuit of the terrace
-seems and is really of one level: but on the out-side the verge of
-the north-easterly part is sloped off gradually toward the entrance
-where the declivity is, conformably with it; whence the whole exterior
-contour appears of an equal height too: and this could not otherwise
-have been obtained, since within it was necessary to keep a true level,
-without regard to the outer plain. As to the seats, which I have
-supposed in plate 50, they were contrived to be twice as broad as
-high: their height was but a small matter more than a foot, and their
-breadth not above two feet and a half; half that space being allotted
-for the seat of the lowermost, and the other half for the feet of the
-uppermost. The declivity of these _gradus_ is justly made within an
-angle of thirty degrees, the third part of a quadrant: but this is more
-exact at the ends; for in the middle, or towards the shortest diameter
-over the elevated part of the circular walk, the upper _series_ of
-seats has a somewhat more obtuse angle; the reason of which is obvious,
-to overlook the breadth of the circular walk. This is most plainly
-seen in the sections, and is done with judgement, because by that
-means the upper edge of the amphitheatre is in a right line with the
-declivity. As to the disposition of these seats, their method is as
-new as curious: it is so contrived, that the circular walks cut the
-whole breadth in two equal parts upon the shortest diameter; therefore
-an equal number of seats is above and under it: hence the middle seat
-at each extremity is in the same level with the elevated part of the
-walk. Though these seats in other amphitheatres abroad were made of
-stone or marble, yet they were generally covered with boards, because
-more wholesome; and that sometimes covered with cushions for the better
-sort. Dion Cassius tells us, this piece of nicety was first brought in
-by Caligula, who gave cushions to the senators seats, that they might
-not sit upon the bare boards, and _Thessalic_ caps to keep them from
-the sun. The vulgar had mats made of reeds. I think we may well infer
-from hence, that the seats in our amphitheatre were covered too with
-plank, if not made wholly of it. The _præcinctiones_, or, as Vitruvius
-sometimes calls them in Greek, _diazomata_, which commentators make a
-difficulty about, to me seem only balustrades, because he orders them
-to be as high as the breadth of the walk along them: beside that upon
-the _podium_, here might possibly be one upon the inner edge of the
-terrace which separated between the soldiers and the women.
-
-The _area_ in the middle was commonly called _arena_, from the sand
-it was strown over with, for the better footing of the combatants,
-and to drink up the blood: this again by intervals was fresh strown,
-or raked over, to prevent slipperiness; for if, instead thereof,
-the pavement had been brick or stone, it would have proved highly
-inconvenient. Hence this word became a common appellation of an
-amphitheatre, and most of those beyond sea are still called _arena_.
-As for the present name of _Maumbury_, perhaps it comes corrupted from
-the old British word _mainge_, signifying _scamnum_, _scabellum_, the
-same as our bench, from the multitude of seats therein; the remains
-of which in former times might very plausibly give occasion to such
-an appellation. Or is it not equivalent to the heathen _bury_, from
-the memory of these pagan sports therein celebrated? as our ancestors
-used to call heathenism by the general name of _maumetry_, corrupted
-from _mahometism_: of this my friend Robert Stephens, esq; J. C. first
-gave me the hint. Thus in Trevisa’s translation of _Polychronicon_,
-XIV. 18. p. 175. “Julianus had commaunded that crysten knyghtes sholde
-do sacrefyce to _mawmettes_,” meaning heathen idols. Or is it from
-the old-fashioned games of _mummings_, so frequent among us, derived
-from _Mimus_ or _Momus_? The _Mimi_ were frequently introduced into
-all shows, at theatres, amphitheatres, circs, &c. Or perhaps in the
-same sense it is to be understood as in Oxfordshire they call land
-_maum_, consisting of a mixture of white clay and chalk, Plot’s hist.
-p. 240. The _area_ was originally about 140 feet diameter the shortest
-way, 220 the longest; wherein it falls not much short of the compass
-of the most considerable ones. The famous amphitheatre at Verona but
-233, and 136; and the vast _Colisæum_ at Rome is but 263, 165; but,
-I believe, as reckoned by a larger measure, the French foot. That at
-Perigusium is less than ours, being 180 one way, 120 the other. I find
-the amphitheatre at Silchester is of the same dimension with ours here,
-and built of the same materials and form, as far as I could discern,
-but more ruinous.
-
-These places, though of absolute necessity open at top, where usually
-sheltered from rain in some measure, and from the sun effectually, by
-great sail-cloths spread along the top from masts and ropes, which
-were managed by the soldiers of the marine affairs, who were more
-skilful in such work: a fashion first invented by Q. Catulus when he
-was Ædile. The places where these poles were let through the cornices
-of the upper order, and rested on corbels, are still visible in the
-great amphitheatres. This probably was done in ours by masts and poles
-fastened into the ground without-side, and leaning along the outside
-bank; which would give them a very advantageous turn in hanging over
-the top of the theatre; for the slope of the _agger_ externally is
-with an angle of forty five degrees, being half a right angle, the
-most natural and commodious for beauty and force to oppose against
-the side weight: or they might erect them in the solid work on the
-top of the terrace, seeing it has abundantly strength enough. But in
-the particularity of these modes no certainty is at this time to be
-expected. However, by the situation of the place, the architect has
-taken great care, according to Vitruvius his rules about theatres, to
-obviate the inconvenience of the sun-beams as well as possible; and
-that in three respects. 1st, As he has set it upon a plain declining
-northwards, and upon the higher part of the plain; upon the very tip
-where the declivity begins. 2dly. By taking the bearing of it exactly,
-I found the opening, or entrance thereto, is to the north-east precise:
-hence it is very plain and easy to conceive, that from nine o’clock
-in the morning till sun-set, in the longest day of the year, the sun
-will be on the backs of the spectators, upon the upper or south-west
-half of the building; which contrivance is worthy of notice: and that
-this is not done upon account of the city of Dorchester lying that way,
-but as a thing essential, is plain from the like in the amphitheatre
-of Silchester, which opens upon the same point, though directly the
-farthest from the city. 3dly, The breadth of the opening or entrance,
-level with the surface, and opposite to the falling beams of the sun,
-must produce a very great rebatement of the heat thereof, reflected
-into this vast concave, and prove a convenience the other amphitheatres
-are wholly destitute of: and this purpose is so much regarded, that,
-if we consider it with a scrupulous eye, we shall find that the
-western side of this upper half of the terrace and the pavilion there
-is somewhat broader, and nearer the upper end of the long diameter,
-than the eastern. In the midway of the terrace between the pavilions
-on both sides and the _cavea_, are still to be seen two round holes,
-which seem to be places where they set poles to oppose against those
-others leaning on the out-side that bear the sail-cloths. The section
-or profile of this work is contrived with exquisite judgement in
-proportioning its parts; for the eye of a man standing at the most
-retired part of the terrace next the parapet is in the right line of
-the declivity within side; of a man standing in the middle of it, his
-eye sees the heads of the spectators sitting under him on the upper
-_subsellia_, even with the line of the circular walk; the eye of him
-standing on the edge of the terrace, sees the heads of those on the
-lowermost _subsellia_, even with the edge of the _podium_, and commands
-the whole _area_: therefore we may conclude none were permitted to
-stand on the circular walk, for that would have obstructed the sight,
-but it was left open for passage. I took notice before, that on both
-sides, the terrace at the top of the lower half seemed to me narrower
-than that at the other and principal half: whether so originally, and
-for sake of any advantage to be had in this respect, and that the
-meanest of the people stood here, or that it has happened to have
-been more wasted away since, I cannot be positive; but I judged it
-not material enough to be regarded in the scheme: for, in the main, I
-found the breadth of the side of the work, or solid, taken upon the
-ground-plot, is equal to half the longest diameter of the _area_, or a
-fourth of the whole longest diameter. Its perpendicular altitude, from
-the top of the terrace to the bottom of the _area_, is a fourth of the
-longest diameter of the _area_.
-
-In the middle of each side we may observe a _cuneus_, or parcel of the
-seats, of near thirty feet broad, just over the most elevated part of
-the circular work, and reaching up to the terrace, which swells out
-above the concavity of the whole, and answering to the rising ground
-in the middle of the terrace, which we call the pavilions, and have
-assigned for the seats of the officers among the soldiery. This is
-upon the shortest diameter, and over the _tribunalia_ of the emperor
-and prætor; and consequently cuts each side of the upper _series_ of
-seats above the circular walk into two equal parts. I have guessed
-only at these reasons for it, which I leave to better judgements. One
-might possibly be, to give a greater beauty to the range of seats
-over the circular walk by its break, which is a thing not practised
-at all in other amphitheatres, unless we suppose this effect produced
-by their _vomitoria_: or is it not more necessary here, because of
-the circular walk, which causes the _series_ of seats above them to
-be broader at the extremity than in the middle, and therein different
-from the aspect of common amphitheatres? Or was not this division
-useful in distinguishing the great length of that _series_ into
-separate compartments for two different sort of plebeians? Or is it
-necessary to distribute the three orders of people; the senators under
-the circular walk to the _podium_, whose place in general was called
-_orchestra_; that half of the upper seats on the upper or south side
-of this protuberant part, to the equestrian order; that on the lower
-or north side, to the people or vulgar? But there seems to be another
-likely reason, that every seat here was divided into two (at least some
-part of it) in the nature of steps, as was practised in particular
-places of all other amphitheatres: and perhaps there were three of
-these ranges of steps, one in the middle, and one on each side: that
-in the middle was for the officers to ascend from the circular walk to
-their tribunals, or tents, set upon the raised part of the terrace,
-whilst the common soldiers went up by the ascent over the cave, at the
-upper end. The steps on each side led to the respective halves of the
-upper _series_ of seats above the circular walk. All which uses to me
-appear convenient and necessary for ease, regularity, and decency.
-In the upper or south-west half of the internal slope have been some
-deformities, caused by the inner edge of the terrace in some places
-cut or fallen down, which spoils the curve a little: and, as the
-lower terraces diminish gradually from the pavilions to the entrance,
-that on the western end has received great damage over and above; for
-the inward verge of it has been thrown down intirely: as for that
-north-easterly half of the terrace, which we said was narrower, more
-exposed to the sun, and for that reason allotted to the last rabble,
-we leave them to scramble up with somewhat more labour over the whole
-_series_ of the seats at that end, which we may reasonably judge were
-last filled by the spectators.
-
-These noble buildings, which were of a fine invention, and well
-calculated for their uses, were most frequently called, from their
-hollow figure, _cavea_; of which there are many quotations to be had
-out of the old poets, and other writers: and originally it was inherent
-to theatres; in which sense commonly used by Cicero and others, but
-at length passed chiefly to amphitheatres, as the greater works. The
-matter of some was brick, as that near Trajecto in the Campania of
-Italy; another at Puteoli; others stone, and others solid marble; as
-that famous one at Capua, another at Athens, and that at Verona. The
-amphitheatre which is still in part to be seen at Pola in Istria, was
-of stone and wood too; for the whole frame of the seats was made of
-timber, the portico’s only, or external part, of stone. The wit of man
-could not find out a fitter scheme for commodiousness of seeing and
-hearing: and in some respect, I conceit, they had an eye to the form
-of their harps, fiddles, and such instruments of music, as modulate
-sounds in a roundish cavity: the oval turn thereof, and the solidity of
-the materials, had all the requisites of receiving and returning the
-vibrations of the air to greater advantage. Vitruvius advises, in this
-case, that the place, as well as the stuff, wherein these buildings
-are set, and of which they are composed, must not be what he calls
-_surd_, such as deaden the sound, but make smart repercussions, and in
-just space of time; which is of great consequence in the philosophy of
-echoes: for if the voice strike upon a solid that is not harmonious
-in its texture, that is, whose parts are not of a proper tone or
-tenseness, not consentaneous to the vibrations of musical notes; or if
-this solid be too near, or too far distant, so that it reverberates
-too quick, or too slow, as a room too little, or too great; all the
-main business of hearing and sounds is disturbed. Vitruvius is very
-large upon this head, to whom I refer the reader. Now I suppose the
-ancients learnt by experience and trial, as well as by reasoning
-upon the nature of things, that such a capacity and compass, and of
-such extent, was best for this end: whence we find, that all their
-amphitheatres are much about the same bulk, and executed upon nearly
-the same proportions. A thing of this kind deceives the eye without
-strict consideration; for it is bigger than it seems, and a person
-in the middle of it, to one upon the terrace, looks lesser than one
-would imagine. It is true indeed, that ours is not made of so solid
-materials as brick, stone or marble; but yet it is possible there may
-be as much an error in one extreme as the other, and nature affects
-a mediocrity. One shall scarce doubt that a _convallis_, or proper
-convexity between two mountains, will give as fine an echo as any
-artificial work that can be contrived. I can say, however, in favour
-of the subject we are upon, that in effect it has a very fine and
-agreeable sound, (as I purposely several times tried) and seems to want
-nothing of the compactness of matter, or closeness of the place, though
-doubtless much deficient in the original depth, which would improve
-it. An echo here is not to be expected, the return being too quick;
-but after the voice you hear a ringing, as of a brass pot, or bell;
-which shows the proportion well adjusted: and perhaps, if we consider
-the great numbers of the stair-cases and openings, or what they call
-_vomitoria_, in the other amphitheatres, for the people to come in
-and go out at, which are intirely wanting here; we may not be far to
-seek for the reason of it, or scruple thinking ours to be the better
-model: the sides being perfectly uniform, and free from those frequent
-apertures, seem better adapted for the rolling, concentring, and
-retorting the voice. It is not unlikely that some may think the great
-gap and discontinuity of our entrance an obstacle in the case; but to
-such I would propose a _quære_, Whether that single break, which bears
-so small a proportion to the whole, in account of those best skilled in
-the doctrine of _acoustics_, be not by far more inconsiderable in that
-point, than the multiplicity of those other passages which we see in
-all drawings of this kind? Or whether again it be not a real advantage
-to the sound? as is the hole in the sounding-board of a fiddle, harp,
-harpsichord, or the like instrument; or when two holes are made, as
-frequently; but, if there were twenty instead thereof, probably it
-would be injurious, though of less bulk when all put together. Perhaps
-the air intirely pent up in this great hollow, without any collateral
-aperture, may be obstructed in the varieties of its necessary motions
-and reflections, so as to delight the ear: and I must profess myself
-of this opinion, which seems confirmed by Nature’s abhorrence of such
-figures, in the constant outlets of valleys some way or other. It is
-certain, whatever effect the entrance has as to the sound, it must be
-highly useful in cooling the place, in admitting the breezes of the
-north-easterly air from over the meadows to refresh them; and the side
-of the opposite hill beyond the town, diversified with hedge-grows,
-presents a beautiful scene to the better spectators: nor is the present
-town deficient in contributing to the landscape: for, as you advance
-from the _arena_ toward the entrance, the two handsome towers of the
-churches appear very agreeably at each cheek of the entrance.
-
-But we have reason to content ourselves with the plain matter of
-fact, and need not enter into a dispute, whether necessity or choice
-determined the Romans here to use the present materials, or whether the
-entrance was originally of the manner we see it: it is certain, that in
-all the places where I have seen these amphitheatres, the Roman walls
-that incompassed the towns are still left, built with ranges of brick,
-stone, flint, and indissoluble mortar; so that ignorance of building
-cannot be laid to their charge. Nor is this practice wholly confined
-to our island, and without parallel; for there is now in France an
-amphitheatre, not improperly to be reckoned of this sort, whereof
-Lipsius gives us a large account: it is at a place called Doveon, near
-Pont du sey, upon the river Loire, as you go from Anjou to Poictou; a
-place where the Druids are said to have had a seat: this is cut out of
-a mountain of stone, but of a very soft kind, and, I suppose, not much
-better than our chalk: it is not near so big as ours, and much inferior
-in beauty and convenience: here are chambers hewn out of the rock for
-the caves; and the _area_ is but very small. The seats of the theatre
-of Bacchus at Athens are still visible, cut out of the natural rock.
-It is not much to be doubted, that in many places in France, and other
-provinces of the Roman empire, where the same chalk is the soil, there
-are such as ours, though as little regarded: and we may reasonably
-think, in the beginning of the commonwealth, before art, luxury, and
-magnificence had got to its highest pitch, that the Romans themselves
-were contented with such of grassy turf. The people of Rome originally
-stood at the games. Cicero, _de Amicit._ c. 7. says, _stantes
-plaudebant in re ficta_. So Tac. _Annal._ XIV. 20. “If you look back
-to customs of antiquity, the people stood at the shows; for if they
-had been accommodated with seats, they would have idled the whole day
-away at the theatre.” Valer. Max. XI. 4. says, “it was ordered by the
-senate, that no one should set benches for shows in the city, nor
-within a mile of it, or should see the games sitting, that the manly
-posture of standing, the peculiar note of the Roman nation, should be
-observed even at diversions.” If any one had rather think, that ours
-never had any seats, but that the people stood upon the plain grassy
-declivity, I shall not be averse to it, and the rather because it is
-your lordship’s opinion: yet it seemed to me, viewing the sides very
-curiously, when the sun shone upon them with a proper light and shade,
-that I could see the very marks of the poles that lay upon the slopes,
-whereon the benches were fastened. Ovid, _de arte amandi_, speaking of
-theatres, says the seats were turf.
-
- _In gradibus sedet populus de cespite factis,
- Qualibet hirsutas fronde tegente comas._
-
- On grassy seats of turf the people sate,
- And leaves of trees Thessalic caps supply.
-
-This of ours seems to be a better method than that in the amphitheatre
-at Pola; and, if it is readily owned much inferior to those at Rome,
-yet even those were exceeded by the noble Greek architects, especially
-by that most admirable theatre near the temple of Æsculapius in
-Epidaurus, of which Pausanias, an eye-witness of both, speaks _in
-argolicis_: “for, though it is not so big as some others, yet for the
-art of it, the nicety of its constituents, and for beauty, who dare
-contend with Polycletus, who was the architect of it?” says he.
-
-As it is not my intent to write a complete history of amphitheatres,
-or further than what is necessary to our present purpose, and to give
-a clear understanding of our work; so I forbear saying any thing of
-the manners, times, qualities, and circumstances, of the games here
-practised, but suppose them much the same in all points with those used
-at Rome, and other places, and with suitable grandeur and magnificence;
-whether in relation to hunting or fighting of wild beasts, of the same
-or different kinds, with one another, or with men; of the gladiators,
-wrestlings, of the pageants called by the ancients _pegmata_, whence
-our word seems derived; of the showers of saffron water to refresh
-the spectators; of the gods these places were dedicated to, and their
-festivals: the whole of these matters, by those that have a mind to
-make themselves acquainted therewith, is best learnt from authors who
-have largely and professedly handled the subject; such as the learned
-Lipsius before quoted, Donatus, and many more Pitiscus will inform
-us of in his Lexicon. It is not to be questioned, that the Romans,
-who had so firmly settled themselves here for the space of 400 years,
-were for elegance and politeness much upon the level with those of the
-continent. But amongst other shows and diversions of beasts, we may
-safely imagine that our British bull-dogs bore a part, since the Romans
-brought them up for the use of the Italian amphitheatres. Claudian
-speaks of them thus,
-
- _Magnaque taurorum fracturi colla Britanni._
-
-But see a large and learned account of them from ancient authors in Mr.
-Camden’s _Britannia_, Hampshire, pag. 119.
-
-I shall give the reader a plain calculation of the number of people,
-that might commodiously be present at the solemn sports and diversions,
-made generally upon holy-days and great festivities of their gods.
-The people hereabouts told me, that once they executed a woman for
-petit-treason, in the middle of the _area_, by burning; which brought
-all the country round to the sight, and filled the whole place: they by
-a gross guess supposed there might be 10,000. But if we allow a foot
-and half for each person sitting, and the number of seats, as I have
-delineated it, 24; then one side of the building spread _in plano_ will
-form a conic _frustrum_ 440 feet long at top, 280 at bottom; taking the
-medium number 360, multiplying it by 24, it gives us 8640 feet; from
-which take off a fourth part, to reduce it to single places of a foot
-and half, there remain 6480 places on one half of the amphitheatre;
-double this for the other side, and you produce 12,960 single places
-for spectators upon the whole range of seats. For fear of exceeding the
-truth, I omit all that might occasionally stand on the terrace at top,
-the ascent up to it, and on the entrance.
-
-It would be vain to talk of the exact time, or the persons concerned
-in building this amphitheatre: but my friend Mr. Pownall of Lincoln,
-before spoken of, has a silver coin of Philippus, ploughed up in the
-very place. _imp. m. jul. philippus aug._ ℞ _lætit. fundat._ a Genius
-with a garland in his right, the helm of a ship in his left hand: the
-legend of the reverse, I must own, seems strongly to intimate he made
-or repaired this work, or that some solemn sports were here performed
-in his time; notwithstanding his melancholy and cynical nature, which
-Sext. Aurelius gives us an account of, or that he was a christian. He
-reigned about A. D. 240. yet I chuse to think it is of a higher date.
-Tacitus tells us, so early as the time of Agricola in Titus his reign,
-they began to introduce luxury among the Britons; for he exhorted
-them privately, and publicly assisted them, to build temples, places
-of public resort, and fine houses; and by degrees they came to those
-excitements to debauchery, portico’s, baths, and the like, of which
-we frequently find the ruins. Therefore we may suppose amphitheatres
-were not forgotton; and probably this was not later than that time,
-so near the southern coast, (which among the Britons themselves was
-the most civilised) so rich and fine a country: for Titus his father
-Vespasian, partly under Claudius the emperor, and partly under Aulus
-Plautius his lieutenant, conquered all the parts hereabouts (as we
-mentioned in the beginning of this letter) where he fought the Britons
-thirty times, subdued two of their most potent nations, took above
-twenty of their towns, and the whole Isle of Wight. No doubt but the
-people, inhabitants of this country, the _Durotriges_, and the town of
-Dorchester, _Durnovaria_, were included in his conquests; and they,
-whatever reign it was in, for their entertainment, erected this noble
-work; of which, in comparison of our modern bear-gardens, and places of
-prize-fighting, I shall venture to give it as my sentiment,
-
- _Hunc homines dicant, hos statuisse feras._
-
- 7 Nov. 1723.
-
-
-
-
- ITER SEPTIMUM ANTONINI AUG. VII.
-
- _Adde tot egregias urbes, operumque laborem.
- Tot congesta manu præruptis oppida saxis,
- Fluminaque antiquos subterlabentia muros._ +Virg. Geor. II.+
-
-
- _To_ ROGER GALE, _Esq_;
-
-The reasons I have to address the following journey to you, are
-both general and particular: of the first sort, the title affixed
-to it could not but put me in mind of your claim to these kind of
-disquisitions from any hand, whose excellent commentary on Antoninus’s
-Itinerary has deservedly given you the palm of ancient learning, and
-rendered your character classic among the chief restorers of the Roman
-Britain. But I am apprehensive it will be easier to make these papers
-of mine acceptable to the world, than to yourself, both as the most
-valuable part of them is your own, and as I purpose by it to remind
-you of favouring the public with a new edition of that work, to which
-I know you have made great additions; and in this I am sure they will
-join with me. The honour you have indulged me of a long friendship,
-the pleasure and advantage I have reaped in travelling with you, and
-especially a great part of this journey, are particular reasons, or
-rather a debt from myself and the world, if any thing of antique
-inquiries I can produce that are not illaudable, if what time I spend
-in travelling, may not be wholly a hunting after fresh air with the
-vulgar citizens, but an examination into the works of nature, and of
-past ages. I have no fears, that aught here will be less acceptable to
-you, because perhaps in some things I may differ from your sentiments:
-the sweetness of your disposition, and your great judgement, I know,
-will discern and applaud what is really just, and excuse the errors:
-difference of opinions, though false, is often of great service in
-furthering a discovery of the truth: to think for one’s self is the
-prerogative of learning; and no one, but a tyrant in books, will
-persecute another for it. It is certain, Antoninus his Itinerary is an
-endless fund of inquiry. I doubt not but in future researches I shall
-be induced as much to vary from myself as now from others; and, after
-our best endeavours, succeeding writers will correct us all.
-
-[Sidenote: +Via Trinovantica.+]
-
-The last summer I travelled this whole Seventh Journey, and in the
-order of the Itinerary; but I took in several other places by the way,
-which relate to the clearing some parts of other journeys. Parallel to
-the great Icening-street, runs another Roman road from south-west to
-north-east, through London, beginning at the sea-coast in Hampshire by
-Rumsey, and ending at the sea-coast in Suffolk about Aldborough. The
-name of it is utterly lost: if I might have the liberty of assigning
-one, it should be _via Trinovantica_, as it tends to the country of
-those people; and names are necessary to avoid confusion. The lower
-part of it, or that comprehended between London and Ringwood upon the
-edge of Dorsetshire, is the subject of this journey; but because I have
-already given an account of several towns that relate to the XIIIth
-and XIVth journeys of Antoninus, which have some connexion with this,
-and that I conceive they are considerably faulty in the original, I
-shall run through some few more I had opportunity to see, and offer my
-conjectures towards the restitution of those journeys.
-
-Upon the great moor between Bagshot and Okingham, near East-Hamsted
-park, we saw a large camp upon a hill doubly ditched, commonly called
-Cæsar’s camp, as many more without any reason: there has been a well
-in it, and both Roman and British coins have been found there, one of
-Cunobelin in silver: its figure is not regular, but conformable to the
-top of the hill: near it are two large barrows, Ambury and Edgebury.
-At Berkham by Okingham I bought a very elegant British coin of gold,
-dug up by a woman in her garden: it is of the most ancient kind, and
-without letters. I saw a British gold coin found near Old Windsor;
-another dug up, 1719, at Hanmer hill, between Guildford and Farnham.
-
-[Sidenote: +Vindoma.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LXI.]
-
-All the country hereabouts, and to Silchester, is clay, moor, sand,
-gravel by spots, much boggy, springy land, much good land, but more
-bad: the water is blackish every where. Silchester is a place that
-a lover of antiquity will visit with great delight: it stands upon
-the highest ground thereabouts, but hid with wood, which grows very
-plentifully all about it. Many were the Roman roads that met here,
-though now scarce any road; which is the reason it is so little known:
-it is likewise inconvenient for travellers, because no inns are near
-it; and it may be serviceable to tell the curious, that Aldermaston is
-the nearest town where lodging is to be found, three miles off; for at
-the place we may truly say,
-
- _Rarus & antiquis habitator in urbibus errat._
-
-The walls of this city are standing, more or less perfect, quite
-round; perhaps the most intire of any in the Roman empire, especially
-the whole north side of the wall, which is a most agreeable sight.
-The composition is chiefly flint for the space of four foot high,
-then a binding of three layers of rag-stone laid flat: in many places
-five of these double intervals remain for a great length. There was
-a broad ditch quite round, and now for the most part impassable, and
-full of springs. Here and there Roman bricks are left in the walls.
-Though on the out-side they are of this considerable height, yet the
-ground within is so raised as nearly to be equal to the top, and that
-quite round crowned with oaks and other timber-trees of no mean bulk,
-and which Mr. Camden takes notice of in his time. Not long since,
-lady Blessington cut 500l. worth of timber from thence. Gildas says,
-Constantius the son of Constantine the Great built it, and sowed corn
-in the track of the walls, as an omen of their perpetuity:[135] indeed,
-now the whole city is arable; and among the fields Roman bricks, bits
-of pots, rubbish of buildings, are scattered every where, and coins
-are picked up every day. It is a parallelogram whose shortest side
-to the longest is as 3 to 4; its length about 2600 feet, its breadth
-2000; standing conformable to the four cardinal points: it had two
-gates upon its length opposite. There is only one farm-house within
-it, and the church. To the east, by that house, the foundation of
-the gate is visible, and several Roman bricks thereabouts. All the
-yards here are like a solid rock, with rubbish, pavements and mortar,
-cemented together. The late Rev. Mr. Betham, minister of this place,
-a learned, curious and worthy person, had collected a vast number of
-coins and antiquities found here: he is buried under the north wall
-of the chancel without side: within is another monument of a person
-of quality: it is remarkable that a wall only divides them in their
-graves, who both met a sad and disastrous fate at different times
-in the same place, being drowned in Fleet-ditch. Onion-hole, in the
-middle of the southern wall, is a place much talked of here by the
-ignorant country people, which is only an arch in the foundation for
-the issue of a sewer: they have a like story here of this city being
-taken by sparrows. I saw a silver coin of Philippus, and a brass one
-of Constantine, and many more. A spring arises from under the wall at
-the church-yard. The streets are still visible in the corn. Rings with
-stones in them are often found, among inscriptions and all sorts of
-other antiquities.
-
-[Sidenote: +Amphitheatre.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XLIII. 2d Vol.]
-
-Five hundred foot without the city, on the north-east corner I espied
-another great curiosity, which the people think was a castle: I
-presently discerned it to be an amphitheatre: it is in bulk, in shape,
-and all points, the same as that at Dorchester, but not built of so
-solid materials; for it is chiefly clay and gravel: it stands in a
-yard by the road side, near a ruinous house and barn, upon a sloping
-piece of ground: eastward toward the road there is a pit: there it is
-sixty foot high on the out-side. The whole _area_ or _arena_ within
-is now covered with water, but they say it is not much above three
-foot deep: the bottom of it, and the work, must certainly be exceeding
-solid, and well compared, to retain the water so many years without
-draining through: it is a most noble and beautiful concave, but
-intirely over-grown with thorn-bushes, briars, holly, broom, furze,
-oak and ash trees, &c. and has from times immemorial been a yard for
-cattle, and a watering-pond; so that it is a wonder their trampling has
-not defaced it much more. I examined this fine antiquity with all the
-exactness possible: the terrace at top, the circular walk, the whole
-form, is not obscure: it is posited exactly as that before described,
-with its longest diameter from north-east to south-west; its entrance
-north-east, though farthest from the city. There is an ascent to it
-from the entrance side, that being upon the lowest ground: at the
-upper end, the level of the ground is not much below the top of the
-terrace, and vastly above that of the _arena_; so that I conceive the
-better sort of the people went that way directly from the city into
-their seats: there is such a gap too in that part, from the ruin of
-the cave where the wild beasts were kept. An old house standing there
-with an orchard has forwarded its ruin from that quarter; and they
-have levelled some part of the terrace for their garden. Surveying the
-whole could not but put me in mind of that piece of Roman magnificence,
-when the emperors caused great trees to be taken up by the roots, and
-planted in the amphitheatres and circs, _pro tempore_, to imitate
-forests wherein they hunted beasts; which here is presented in pure
-nature.
-
-[Sidenote: _Barrows_ Br.]
-
-Riding along the road on the north side of Silchester, I left it with
-this reflection: Now a person of a moderate fortune may buy a whole
-Roman city, which once half a kingdom could not do; and a gentleman may
-be lord of the soil where formerly princes and emperors commanded. To
-the west of the place, but at some distance, runs a high bank overgrown
-with trees seemingly north and south: they say there is another
-such, south of the city: which would make one suspect they were raised
-by some besiegers. Farther on I crossed a great Roman road coming
-from Winchester: they call it Long-bank and Grimesdike. I have very
-often found this name applied to a road, a wall, a ditch of antiquity;
-which would make one fancy it is a Saxon word signifying the witches
-work; for the vulgar generally think these extraordinary works made by
-help of the devil. They told me it goes through Burfield and Reading.
-Towards Winchester I could see it as far as the horizon, perfectly
-strait, ten miles off. We may say with the poet,
-
- _Tellus in longas est patefacta vias._ +Tibull.+
-
-Near it they talk of a stone thrown by an imp from Silchester walls, a
-mile off, which I suppose a mile-stone. Mr. Camden says a Roman road
-runs westward from Silchester, which I imagine goes to Andover. From
-Aldermaston is a fine view of the country hanging over the Kennet,
-lately made navigable. Going from Aldermaston to Kingsclere, where once
-was a palace of the Saxon kings, I passed over Brimpton common: here
-are many very fine Celtic barrows: the soil is a moor full of _erica_,
-which they dig up for fewel; underneath it is sand: at Kingsclere the
-mighty chalk-hills begin. Upon the top of a very high promontory is a
-square Roman camp, in a park. From hence to Andover is an hard way and
-open country. Just before I descended the continuation of this great
-ridge of hills overlooking Andover, I crossed a ditch like Wansditch,
-hanging upon the edge of the hills, which I suppose some division
-among the ancient Britons: it extended itself both ways as far as I
-could see: the foss is not very large, though the bank is: the foss is
-northward.
-
-[Illustration: 43·2ᵈ. _The Side view of the_ Amphitheater _at
- Silchester. May 8. 1724._
-
-_Stukeley delin._ _E. Kirkall sculp._]
-
-[Sidenote: +Andaoreon.+]
-
-[Sidenote: +Bury-hill+ Ro. _Camp_.]
-
-Andover is (not to be questioned) the _Andaoreon_ of Ravennas: the name
-signifies the watery habitation; _annedh_, habitatio; _dur_, aqua. It
-stands on the slope of a hill just by the springs of the river Tees, or
-_t’isca_: they arise here northward of the town very plentiful, and are
-carried in a thousand rills through all the meadows, till they unite
-and pass under the bridge. The church is an aukward old building; the
-west door, of an ancient circular make. They are now pulling down the
-timber market-house to build a new one of stone: the market-place is a
-broad street. Upon a very high hill to the south-west is a large Roman
-camp, seeming to be admirably well fortified: it is called Bury hill.
-Between this and Stockbridge is Dunbury hill, a circular camp, doubly
-intrenched with various works at the entrance.
-
-I travelled along a fine downy country, ’till passing the river Bourn
-in Wiltshire I came to the Icening-street near Haradon hill; where I
-intended to observe the great eclipse of the sun, which was to be on
-the next day; of which memorable _phænomenon_ I judge it will not be
-disagreeable if I repeat what I wrote of it.
-
-
- To Dr. _Edmund Halley_.
-
-According to my promise, I send you what I observed of the solar
-eclipse, though I fear it will not be of any great use to you. I was
-not prepared with any instruments for measuring time, or the like,
-and proposed to myself only to watch all the appearances that Nature
-would present to the naked eye on so remarkable an occasion, and which
-generally are overlooked, or but grosly regarded. I chose for my
-station a place called Haradon hill, two miles eastward from Amsbury,
-and full east from the opening of Stonehenge avenue, to which it is as
-the point of view. Before me lay the vast plain where that celebrated
-work stands, and I knew that the eclipse would appear directly over
-it: beside, I had the advantage of a very extensive prospect every
-way, this being the highest hill hereabouts, and nearest the middle of
-the shadow. Full west of me, and beyond Stonehenge, is a pretty copped
-hill, like the top of a cone lifting itself above the horizon: this is
-Clay hill, near Warminster, twenty miles distant, and near the central
-line of darkness, which must come from thence; so that I could have
-notice enough before-hand of its approach. Abraham Sturgis and Stephen
-Ewens, both of this place and sensible men, were with me. Though it was
-very cloudy, yet now and then we had gleams of sun-shine, rather more
-than I could perceive at any other place around us. These two persons
-looking through smoaked glasses, while I was taking some bearings
-of the country with a circumferentor, both confidently affirmed the
-eclipse was begun; when by my watch I found it just half an hour after
-five: and accordingly from thence the progress of it was visible,
-and very often to the naked eye; the thin clouds doing the office of
-glasses. From the time of the sun’s body being half covered, there was
-a very conspicuous circular _iris_ round the sun, with perfect colours.
-On all sides we beheld the shepherds hurrying their flocks into fold,
-the darkness coming on; for they expected nothing less than a total
-eclipse, for an hour and a quarter.
-
-When the sun looked very sharp, like a new moon, the sky was pretty
-clear in that spot: but soon after a thicker cloud covered it; at
-which time the _iris_ vanished, the copped hill before mentioned grew
-very dark, together with the horizon on both sides, that is, to the
-north and south, and looked blue; just as it appears in the east at
-the declension of day: we had scarce time to tell ten, when Salisbury
-steeple, six mile off southward, became very black; the copped hill
-quite lost, and a most gloomy night with full career came upon us. At
-this instant we lost sight of the sun, whose place among the clouds
-was hitherto sufficiently distinguishable, but now not the least trace
-of it to be found, no more than if really absent: then I saw by my
-watch, though with difficulty, and only by help of some light from
-the northern quarter, that it was six hours thirty-five minutes: just
-before this the whole compass of the heavens and earth looked of a
-lurid complexion, properly speaking, for it was black and blue; only
-on the earth upon the horizon the blue prevailed. There was likewise
-in the heavens among the clouds much green interspersed; so that the
-whole appearance was really very dreadful, and as symptoms of sickening
-nature.
-
-Now I perceived us involved in total darkness, and palpable, as I may
-aptly call it: though it came quick, yet I was so intent that I could
-perceive its steps, and feel it as it were drop upon us, and fall on
-the right shoulder (we looking westward) like a great dark mantle, or
-coverlet of a bed, thrown over us, or like the drawing of a curtain on
-that side: and the horses we held in our hands were very sensible of
-it, and crouded close to us, startling with great surprise. As much
-as I could see of the men’s faces that stood by me, had a horrible
-aspect. At this instant I looked around me, not without exclamations of
-admiration, and could discern colours in the heavens; but the earth had
-lost its blue, and was wholly black. For some time, among the clouds,
-there were visible streaks of rays, tending to the place of the sun as
-their centre; but immediately after, the whole appearance of the
-earth and sky was intirely black. Of all things I ever saw in my life,
-or can by imagination fancy, it was a sight the most tremendous.
-
-[Illustration: _The appearance of the_ Total Solar eclipse _from
- Haradon hill May 11, 1724_.
-
- _Stukeley del._ _E Kirkhall Sculp._]
-
-Toward the north-west, whence the eclipse came, I could not in the
-least find any distinction in the horizon between heaven and earth, for
-a good breadth, of about sixty degrees or more; nor the town of Amsbury
-underneath us, nor scarce the ground we trod on. I turned myself round
-several times during this total darkness, and remarked at a good
-distance from the west on both sides, that is, to the north and south,
-the horizon very perfect; the earth being black, the lower part of
-the heavens light: for the darkness above hung over us like a canopy,
-almost reaching the horizon in those parts, or as if made with skirts
-of a lighter colour; so that the upper edges of all the hills were as a
-black line, and I knew them very distinctly by their shape or profile:
-and northward I saw perfectly, that the interval of light and darkness
-in the horizon was between Martinsal hill and St. Ann’s hill; but
-southward it was more indefinite. I do not mean that the verge of the
-shadow passed between those hills, which were but twelve miles distant
-from us: but so far I could distinguish the horizon; beyond it, not
-at all. The reason of it is this: the elevation of ground I was upon
-gave me an opportunity of seeing the light of the heavens beyond the
-shadow: nevertheless this verge of light looked of a dead, yellowish
-and greenish colour: it was broader to the north than south, but the
-southern was of a tawny colour. At this time, behind us or eastward
-toward London, it was dark too, where otherwise I could see the hills
-beyond Andover; for the foremost end of the shadow was past thither: so
-that the whole horizon was now divided into four parts of unequal bulk
-and degrees of light and dark: the part to the north-west, broadest
-and blackest; to the south-west, lightest and longest. All the change
-I could perceive during the totality, was that the horizon by degrees
-drew into two parts, light and dark; the northern hemisphere growing
-still longer, lighter, and broader, and the two opposite dark parts
-uniting into one, and swallowing up the southern enlightened part.
-
-As at the beginning the shade came feelingly upon our right shoulders,
-so now the light from the north, where it opened as it were: though
-I could discern no defined light or shade upon the earth that way,
-which I earnestly watched for; yet it was manifestly by degrees, and
-with oscillations, going back a little, and quickly advancing further;
-till at length upon the first lucid point appearing in the heavens,
-where the sun was, I could distinguish pretty plainly a rim of light
-running along-side of us a good while together, or sweeping by at our
-elbows from west to east. Just then, having good reason to suppose the
-totality ended with us, I looked on my watch, and found it to be full
-three minutes and a half more: now the hill-tops changed their black
-into blue again, and I could distinguish a horizon where the centre
-of darkness was before: the men cried out, they saw the copped hill
-again, which they had eagerly looked for: but still it continued dark
-to the south-east; yet I cannot say that ever the horizon that way was
-undistinguishable: immediately we heard the larks chirping and singing
-very briskly for joy of the restored luminary, after all things had
-been hushed into a most profound and universal silence: the heavens and
-earth now appeared exactly like morning before sun-rise, of a greyish
-cast, but rather more blue interspersed; and the earth, as far as the
-verge of the hill reached, was of a dark green or russet colour.
-
-As soon as the sun emerged, the clouds grew thicker, and the light was
-very little amended for a minute or more, like a cloudy morning slowly
-advancing. After about the middle of the totality, and so after the
-emersion of the sun, we saw Venus very plainly, but no other star.
-Salisbury steeple now appeared. The clouds never removed, so that we
-could take no account of it afterward, but in the evening it lightened
-very much. I hasted home to write this letter; and the impression was
-so vivid upon my mind, that I am sure I could, for some days after,
-have wrote the same account of it, and very precisely. After supper I
-made a drawing of it from my imagination, upon the same paper I had
-taken a prospect of the country before.
-
-I must confess to you, that I was (I believe) the only person in
-England that regretted not the cloudiness of the day, which added so
-much to the solemnity of the sight, and which imcomparably exceeded,
-in my apprehension, that of 1715, which I saw very perfectly from the
-top of Boston steeple in Lincolnshire, where the air was very clear:
-but the night of this was more complete and dreadful. There indeed
-I saw both sides of the shadow come from a great distance, and pass
-beyond us to a great distance; but this eclipse had much more of
-variety and majestic terror: so that I cannot but felicitate myself
-upon the opportunity of seeing these two rare accidents of nature, in
-so different a manner: yet I should willingly have lost this pleasure
-for your more valuable advantage of perfecting the noble theory of
-the celestial bodies, which last time you gave the world so nice a
-calculation of; and wish the sky had now as much favoured us for an
-addition to your honour and great skill, which I doubt not to be as
-exact in this as before.
-
- _Ambsbury, Wilts, May 10, 1724._
-
-Return we to matters of antiquity. Upon this very hill-top are great
-pits dug lately by order of my lord Charlton for clay, which they find
-here of a very stiff sort, by nature let in like veins among clefts of
-the solid chalk: the workmen here, whilst they have been busy in taking
-it up, have found many Romans coins, silver and brass, some very deep
-in the earth, as they say; several of which I have now by me. I saw
-likewise a very fair gold _Constantius_; the reverse, two Genii holding
-a shield, _vot._ xxx. _victoria Augg._ It seems as if the Romans, with
-their wonted sagacity, had been occupied here in the same way, to make
-pottery ware, and not neglected to leave proof of it according to their
-method. I took notice likewise of one side of the summit being covered
-with oyster-shells loose upon the surface; and how they came there I
-could get no information.
-
-[Sidenote: +Icening-street.+]
-
-[Sidenote: +Sorbiodunum.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LXV.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LXVI.]
-
-[Sidenote: Roman _way_.]
-
-[Sidenote: +Brige.+]
-
-The Icening-street runs between this hill and the Bourn river, coming
-from Newberry, as I suppose, through Chute forest, where vulgarly
-called Chute causeway: at Lurgishal it makes a fine terrace-walk in
-the garden of Sir Philip Medows; then passes the Bourn river about
-Tudworth, and so by this place to the eastern gate of Old Sarum, the
-Roman _Sorbiodunum_, where it runs most precisely north-east and
-south-west, as we said before. This city is perfectly round, and
-formed upon one of the most elegant designs one can imagine: probably
-a fortress of the old Britons, and I fancy somewhat like the famous
-Alesia in Gaul, memorable for the ancient Hercules, its founder, and
-for the siege of the great Cæsar; which only his genius could have
-taken in his circumstances. The prospect of this place is at present
-very august, and would have afforded us a most noble sight when in
-perfection: such a one will not be difficult to conceive when we have
-described it. It fills up the summit of a high and steep hill, which
-originally rose equally on all sides to an _apex_: the whole work is
-1600 foot diameter, included in a ditch of a prodigious depth:
-it is so contrived that in effect it has two ramparts, the inner and
-outer, the ditch between: upon the inner, which is much the higher,
-stood a strong wall of twelve foot thick, their usual standard, which
-afforded a parapet at top for the defendants, with battlements quite
-round: upon still higher ground is another deep circular ditch, of 500
-foot diameter; this is the castle or citadel. Upon the inner rampire of
-this was likewise another wall, I suppose of like thickness: so that
-between the inner ditch and the outer wall, all around, was the city.
-This is divided into equal parts by a meridian line: both the banks are
-still left; one to the south, the other to the north; and these had
-walls upon them too: the traces of all the walls are still manifest,
-and some parts of them left; but we may say with the poet of the whole,
-
- ————_lapsis ingentia muris
- Saxa jacent, nulloque domus custode tenetur._ +Lucan. I.+
-
-In the middle of each half, toward the east and west, is a gate,
-with each a lunette before it, deeply ditched, and two oblique
-entries; that to the east is square, to the west round: the hollow
-where the wall stood is visible quite round, though the materials
-are well-nigh carried away to New Sarum: in every quarter were two
-towers, the foundations plainly appearing: then, with those that
-were upon the cardinal points, the gates and the median rampart, as
-it must necessarily be understood, there were twelve in the whole
-circumference; so that, supposing it about 5000 feet in circumference,
-there was a tower at every 400. Hence we may imagine the nature of
-the city was thus: a circular street went round in the middle between
-the inner and outer fortifications, concentric to the whole work; and
-that cross streets, like _radii_, fronted each tower: then there were
-twenty-four islets of building for houses, temples, or the like. Now
-such is the design of this place, that if one half was taken by an
-enemy, the other would still be defensible; and at last they might
-retire into the castle. The city is now ploughed over, and not one
-house left. In the angle to the north-west stood the cathedral and
-episcopal palace: the foundations are at present so conspicuous, that
-I could easily mark out the ground-plot of it, as in the 65th plate:
-near it is a large piece of the wall left, made of hewn stone with
-holes quite through at equal spaces. One would imagine the Romans, in
-laying down the _area_ of this city, had Plato’s rules in view,[136]
-in his fifth dialogue of laws. Many wells have been filled up, and,
-no doubt, with noble reliques of antiquity: they must have been very
-deep, and especially that in the castle, and dug out of the solid
-chalk. Of the castle-wall a good deal of huge fragments and foundations
-are left: a double winding stair-case led up to the gate, where bits
-of arch-work and immense strength of stone and mortar remains; and
-within, many foundations and traces of buildings. In the north-east
-corner of the city there is another rampart upon a _radius_, including
-a squarish piece of ground; probably for some public edifice, but what
-in particular, is now hard to say. Certainly, for strength, air, and
-prospect over the lovely downs, and for salubrity, this place was well
-calculated, and impregnable to any thing but death and hunger. The
-river Avon runs near the bottom of the hill. The history of its glory,
-its strange vicissitudes, and its ruin by removal of the church to
-New Sarum, may be learnt from Camden, Burton, and other authors; my
-business being chiefly to describe things: but the very sight of such a
-carcass would naturally from a traveller extort such an expostulation:
-Is this the ancient episcopal see, and the seat of warlike men, now
-become corn-fields, and pasture for sheep? Is this the place where
-synods have been held, and British parliaments; where all the states of
-the kingdom were summoned to swear fealty to William the Conqueror; the
-palace of the most potent British and Saxon kings, and Roman emperors?
-and conclude with Rutilius,
-
- _Non indignemur mortalia corpora solvi,
- Cernimus exemplis oppida posse mori._
-
- Nor grieve at our own fate, since here we see
- That towns themselves must die as well as we.
-
-Before the eastern gate of _Sorbiodunum_, a branch of the Roman way
-proceeds eastward to Winchester, which has never yet been observed:
-upon this goes part of the XVth imperial journey in these words; _Venta
-Belgarum, Brige, Sorbiodunum_. This way passes the river Bourn at
-Ford: the ridge of it is plain, though the countrymen have attacked
-it vigorously on both sides with their ploughs: we caught them at the
-sacrilegious work, and reprehended them for it: then it goes between
-Clarendon park, and the camp of Chlorus before described: on the whole
-length of Farley common it is very conspicuous, made of hard matter dug
-up all along on both sides; then ascends the hills at Winterslow, which
-signifies the white hill; then through Buckholt forest, where with
-good heed the course of it may be followed, though through by-ways,
-pastures, woods and hedges; sometimes running the length, sometimes
-crossing it: a little northward of West Titherley it goes close by a
-farm-house and large barn upon a rising ground, and at the edge of a
-wood. This is the proper distance of eight miles from _Sorbiodunum_,
-and was the ancient Brige; and Roman antiquities are often found here:
-the British name imports a town upon the top of the hill; _brege_,
-cacumen.
-
- _Nunc situs informis premit & deserta vetustas._ +Hor.+
-
-All this country being part of the Conqueror’s new forest, this colony
-of the Romans shared in that great depopulation he made for his
-diversion. It is near the brink of that woody hill, called Horseshoe
-wood from its being upon a hill, overlooking Broughton upon the river
-Wallop, where Mr. Camden places the Brige. A little way farther upon
-the same brink, on an _apex_ of the hill, stands a large Celtic barrow,
-ditched about, called Bols turret:[137] there are several other barrows
-thereabouts, and probably some Roman; for the Roman road, here called
-the Cause-way, proceeds upon this edge to the river at Bossington,
-though sometimes intercepted by corn-fields, where the common road
-goes about, and then falls into it again: it passes over the river at
-Bossington, then marches directly to Winchester west gate.
-
-[Illustration: 65 SORBIODVNVM.
- _1. Aug. 1722._
-
- _The View._
-
- _The Ichnography._
-
- _The Section._
-
- Antiquæ Urbis Cadaver in Æs transtulit Joħes Pine Chalcographus.
-
- _Stukeley designavit._]
-
-[Illustration: 66 _Prospect of_ Old Sarum _Aug. 1. 1723._
-
- A. _Stratford_ B. _the Icening Street_.
-
- _Stukeley del_]
-
-[Illustration: 75·2ᵈ. MARCVS MODIVS MEDICVS. _In Marmore_
-
-_Apud Illustrissimum Comitem_ Penbrokiæ, In Villa Carviliana._
-
- _Stukeley delin:_ _G. Vᵈʳ. Gucht Sculp._]
-
-[Sidenote: +Wilton.+]
-
-Having described this road, let us return to _Sorbiodunum_, in order
-to pursue the Icening-street: but first give me leave to impart
-to the reader somewhat of the pleasure you and I reaped at the
-neighbouring Wilton. I shall only at this time give a catalogue of my
-lord Pembroke’s most noble collection of ancient marbles, which may
-be of use to the curious, in knowing the particulars of that glorious
-_Musœum_, or that have a mind to view them.
-
-The BUSTO’S are in number 133. The STATUES 36. The BASSO RELIEVO’S 15.
-MISCELLANIES 9.
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. CIII. 2d Vol.]
-
-I. Of the BUSTO’S. 1. Those made with eyes of different matter from
-the bust. A Sibyl, the whole cavity of the eyes hollowed: Ariadne,
-with agate eyes: A Greek Cupid, with agate eyes: Drusus, Germanicus;
-these two are in copper, finely performed, with silver eyes.—2. Learned
-persons. Hesiod: Homer, brought from Constantinople, seems by its high
-antiquity to have been the first model of the father of the poets:
-Sappho, the inimitable in poetry; this is of the ivory marble, the last
-perfection of Greek sculpture: Pythagoras: Anacharsis, of an admirable
-character: Socrates, by the roguish carver dressed like a Satyr, with
-sharp ears: Plato, very ancient, and of a most venerable aspect:
-Aristotle: Aristophanes: Apollonius Tyanæus, a most valuable antiquity,
-with the right hand and arm: Marcus Modius, an Athenian physician,
-of excellent Greek work: Epicurus, a little bust of the great atomic
-philosopher: Posidonius, preceptor to Cicero: Sophocles: Aspasia,
-who taught Socrates rhetoric: Isocrates: Cato major: Cicero, of
-touch-stone: Horace, as some think; a young busto of speckled porphyry;
-I am inclined to believe it Ovid: Seneca: Persius the Satyrist: Titus
-Livius.—3. Of coloss proportion. Arsinoe mater: Ahenobarbus, the bad
-father of the worse Nero: Julia Domna, wife of Severus: Geta when
-young, their son.—4. Persons of Greece before the Roman empire: Cecrops
-and his wife represented as Janus: Tmolus, a most ancient founder of
-a colony: Ganymede, with the Phrygian bonnet, very beautiful: Dido:
-Arsinoe filia: Phædra, wife of Theseus: Damas, the learned daughter
-of Pythagoras: Olympias, mother of Alexander: Alexander magnus:
-Lysimachus: Berenice mater: Berenice filia: Ptolemy, brother to
-Cleopatra: Cleopatra, wife to Antipater: Ammonius Alexandrinus, one
-of the Olympic victors: Iotape, wife of Antiochus Comagenes king of
-Syria.—5. Consular persons: Lucius Junius Brutus, who slew Tarquin:
-M. Junius Brutus, who slew Cæsar: P. Cornelius Scipio Africanus:
-Scipio Asiaticus: P. Cornelius Scipio Nasica: one of the brothers of
-the Horatii: Marcellus: Marius: Sulpicius Rufus: Dolabella: Cneius
-Pompeius magnus: Sextus Pompeius.—6. Emperors, Empresses, Cæsars and
-Augustæ, beside Geta and Julia Domna already mentioned. Julius Cæsar,
-of oriental alabaster, the only original: Augustus: Julia, daughter
-to Augustus, incomparably fine: Cajus Cæsar: Lucius Cæsar: Marcellus:
-Drusus senior: Germanicus: Agrippina senior: Antonia, of curious
-marble: Tiberius, of small brass: Caligula: Cæsonia, wife of Caligula:
-Claudius, the conqueror of Britain: Drusilla: Messalina: Nero: Sabina
-Poppæa, his wife, a naked busto: Octavia, his wife: Marcia: Galba:
-Otho: Vitellius: Lucius Vitellius, brother to the emperor: Vespasian:
-Titus: Julia, daughter of Titus: Domitian: Vespasianus novus, the
-adopted son of Domitian: Nerva: Trajan: Hadrian: Sabina: Antinous,
-Hadrian’s favourite: Antoninus Pius: Faustina senior: M. Aurelius
-Antoninus Philosophus: Annius Verus: Lucius Verus: Commodus: Lucilla,
-wife of Ælius: Lucilla junior, wife of Verus: Pertinax: Didius
-Julianus: Crispina, wife of Commodus: Septimius Severus: Plautilla,
-wife of Caracalla: Julia Paula: Macrinus: Annia Faustina, wife of
-Heliogabalus: Julia Mammæa, wife of Verus: Julia Moesa: Lucilla junior:
-Alexander Severus: Gordianus Cæsar: Balbinus: Sabina Tranquillina, wife
-of Antonius Gordianus, emperor: Marcia Otacilla; Q. Herennius, a boy:
-Hostilianus: Volusianus: Valerianus, a boy: Constantinus magnus the
-Briton, of better work than was commonly in that age, as a few of his
-medals were.—7. Divinities. Jupiter: Pallas: Apollo, a fine large bust:
-Diana: Venus, like that of Medicis: Bacchus: Faunus: Fauna: Libera:
-Libertas: Mercury Pantheon, made of different faces.
-
-II. STATUES. A queen of the Amazons defending herself from a horseman
-in battle: Cupid, a man, breaking his bow: Clio, the muse, sitting: a
-Faunus: these are of most admirable workmanship. Five statues reckoned
-as ancient as any in the several parts of the world. Egypt, Isis
-with her husband Osiris in Theban iron stone. Thrace, Jupiter Ammon
-from the temple built by Sesostris, with a ram on his shoulders; it
-is a very venerable piece. Asia Minor, Diana of Ephesus; the head,
-hands and feet black, the rest of white marble. Phrygia, Cupid tied
-to a tree; a Phrygian cap on his head. Lydia, Hercules wrestling
-with Achelous. Paris with the Phrygian bonnet and shepherd’s coat of
-skins. Saturn with an infant in his arms. The Egyptian Bacchus, of a
-fine shape, carrying the young fat Greek Bacchus on his shoulder. A
-shepherd playing on the flute. A Greek Bacchus. Flora. Silenus drunk,
-with a club in his hand, fancying himself Hercules, supported by a
-younger; a piece of most incomparable art. A boy dancing and playing
-on music. Cupid holding the golden apple. A young Bacchus smiling.
-Marcus Aurelius on horseback, made at Athens, small. The river Meander,
-recumbent. A boy in an eager posture, catching at some live thing
-on the ground. A coloss Hercules, six Attic cubits high, with three
-apples in one hand. Cleopatra giving suck to Cæsarion her son, sitting.
-Julia Pia Domna, wife of Septimius Severus, sitting. Livia, the wife
-of Augustus, sitting. Manlia Scantilla, sitting. Attys the Phrygian,
-engraved by Montfaucon without the head, which is here restored. Mark
-Antony, a crocodile at his feet. Apollo. Ceres. Pomona. Andromeda.
-Young Hercules with the serpents. Hercules, old, with his club. The
-dwarf of Augustus.
-
-III. BASSO RELIEVO’S. The Story of Niobe, _alto relievo_, very ancient:
-there are twenty figures; the marble is 2400 weight; seems to have been
-a pannel in some temple of Apollo, or Diana. The story of Meleager,
-being the side of a _sarcophagus_, seventeen figures, _mezzo relievo_,
-1500 weight, of an admirable taste. Curtius on horseback, leaping into
-the gaping cavern, of most excellent work. M. Aurelius and Faustina,
-_adversa capita_, fine work. Caracalla, a three-quarters _relievo_.
-The three Graces. One on horseback, cutting at a soldier defending
-himself under the horse. The ancient manner of eating, Jupiter served
-by Hebe: he is accumbent. A frize of a sea-triumph, small figures.
-Cleopatra with the asps in a covered vase, _alto relievo_. Part of a
-frize from a temple of Neptune, Naiades and Tritons. A _basso_ from a
-temple of Bacchus, the _thyrsus_, &c. A _basso relievo_ on porphyry
-of Roemitalces king of Thrace. A child stealing fruit from the altar
-through a mask.
-
-IV. MISCELLANIES. A nuptial vase, representing the ceremonies of
-marriage. Ara Hammonis, a cube of white marble, on front the symbol of
-Jupiter Hammon on a circular piece of the old Theban marble. Two black
-porphyry pillars brought from Rome by the earl of Arundel. The column
-of Egyptian granite, weighing near 7000 weight, from the ruins of the
-temple of Venus genetrix, built by Julius Cæsar: this my lord has set
-up in the front of the house. A very ancient altar of Bacchus, adorned
-with _basso relievo’s_. An altar table of red Egyptian granite, large,
-and four or five inches thick. An antique pavement, four sorts of
-marble, of gradual light and shade. The antique picture from the temple
-of Juno: it is in thick stucco. The _sarcophagus_ of Epaphroditus
-intire, finely carved with the history of Ceres. The front of Claudia’s
-sepulchre, sister of Probus the emperor: her head is joined with his.
-Eighty-five _termini_ of antique marbles, busto’s on seventy-two of
-them.
-
-[Sidenote: +Icening-street.+]
-
-From the gate of _Sorbiodunum_ the Icening-street goes from north-east
-to south-west, by the name of Port lane, over the river Avon at
-Stretford; then ascends the hill, and passes the united Nadre and
-Willy near Bemerton, where the stony ford is still very perfect: then
-it goes across my lord Pembroke’s horse-race course and hare-warren,
-making a visto to M. Aurelius his equestrian figure in the park. If
-the spirits and _genii_ of the ancient Romans travel this way, no
-doubt they will be surprised to find themselves so near the Capitol.
-Then it traverses the brook at Fenny-Stretford, and so along the great
-downs toward Cranburn chace: here it delights one to turn and survey
-its direction towards _Sorbiodunum_, a sweet prospect; whether we
-regard what share of it is due to nature, or what to art; and of the
-latter sort, what is owing to the road, or what to the old city. As it
-enters the chace there is a most remarkable _diverticulum_, and which
-notoriously demonstrates it was begun from the south: for here, as it
-came from thence across the woods, where its ridge is very perfect,
-made of stone, it butts full upon the end of a vast valley, very deep
-and of steep descent; where it was absolutely impracticable to carry
-the road on in a strait line: the Roman surveyor therefore wisely gave
-way to nature, turned the road side-ways along the end of the valley,
-then with an equal angle carried it forward upon the upper side of that
-valley in full direction to Old Sarum. That great and wise people,
-though ignorant of submission, knew nature might be drawn aside, but
-not directly opposed, especially in works that are to be lasting: hence
-my intent was, to pursue this noble road as far as it would carry me;
-and the pleasure one perceives in such a concomicant is not to be
-imagined by any one but those that experience it: to observe their
-methods in the conduct of such works, their artifices and struggles
-between industry and the difficulties and diversities of ground, of
-rivers, &c. and the continual presentment of somewhat worthy of remark
-by the way, renders it short, and vastly entertaining; nor is the mind
-ever at a loss for learned amusement. When it has passed through the
-woods of Cranburn chace, and approaches Woodyates, you see a great
-dike and _vallum_ (Venndike) upon the edges of the hills to the left
-by Pentridge, to which I suppose it gave name: this crosses the Roman
-road, and then passes on the other side, upon the division between
-the hundred. The large _vallum_ here is southward, and it runs upon
-the northern brink of the hills; whence I conjecture it a division
-or fence thrown up by the _Belgæ_ before Cæsar’s time. I call this
-the second boundary of the _Belgæ_; two others are already mentioned.
-I pleased myself with the hopes of observing the Roman road running
-over it, as doubtless it did originally: but just at that instant both
-enter a lane, where every thing is disfigured with the wearing away
-and reparations that have been made ever since. Its high ridge is then
-inclosed within a pasture just at Woodyates, then becomes the common
-road for half a mile, but immediately passes forward upon a down, the
-road going off to the right. I continued the Roman road for two or
-three mile, where it is rarely visited: it is very beautiful, smooth
-on both sides, broad at top, the holes remaining whence it was taken,
-with a ditch on each hand: it is made of gravel, flint, or such stuff
-as happened in the way, most convenient and lasting. There are vast
-numbers of Celtic barrows upon these downs, just of such manner and
-shapes as those of Salisbury plain: at the first and more considerable
-group I came to, there was a most convincing evidence of the Roman
-road being made since the barrows: two instances of this nature I gave
-in the last letter. One form of these barrows, for distinction sake,
-I call Druids (for what reasons I shall not stand here to dispute:)
-they are thus. A circle of about 100 foot diameter, more or less, is
-inclosed with a ditch of a moderate breadth and depth: on the outside
-of this ditch is a proportionate _vallum_; in the centre of this
-inclosure is a small tump, where the remains of the person are buried,
-sometimes two, sometimes three. Now so it fell out, that the line of
-direction of the Roman road necessarily carried it over part of one of
-these _tumuli_, and some of the materials of the road are dug out of
-it: this has two little tumps in its centre.
-
-[Sidenote: +Vindogladia.+]
-
-It was now my business to look out for the station in Antoninus
-called _Vindogladia_, mentioned in the last journey to be twelve mile
-from _Sorbiodunum_. By this time I was come to a proper distance:
-accordingly I found, at the end of this heath, the road which is all
-along called Iclingdike, descended a valley where a brook crosses it,
-from two villages called Gliffet. At All-Saints, or Lower Gliffet,
-there was a small ale-house, and the only one hereabouts (the Rose:)
-my old landlady, after some discourse preparatory, informed me that
-at Boroston, a mile lower upon the river, had been an old city; and
-that strangers had come out of their way on purpose to see it; that
-ruins and foundations were there; that it had seven parish-churches,
-which were beaten down in the war time; that many old coins had been
-ploughed up when she was a girl, which the children commonly played
-withal; but the case at present was plainly the same with that of old
-Troy, described in the ballad upon her wall, where she showed me these
-passionate verses,
-
- Waste lie those walls that were so good,
- And corn now grows where Troy towers stood.
-
-This account, so natural, satisfied me that _Vindogladia_ must here
-be fixed, and Wimbornminster be robbed of that honour, where the tide
-of antiquarians have hitherto carried it, for no other reason but
-name sake; the distances and road being repugnant. I suppose the name
-signifies the white river, or vale; _vint_, white; _gladh_, a river;
-whence our glade, or valley where a river runs. This place being not
-capable of affording me a proper mansion, I left the more particular
-scrutiny of it for another opportunity.
-
-Hence I pursued the road on the opposite chalk-hill, where they have
-dug it away to burn for lime, but much degenerate from Roman mortar in
-strength: it was not long before I absolutely lost it in great woods
-beyond Long Crechil; but by information I learnt that it passes the
-Stour at Crayford bridge below Blandford, where I was obliged to take
-up my nightly quarters. I was glad to gain the downy country again
-westward of it, and still full of barrows of all sorts by clusters or
-groups. I frequently observed on the sides of hills long divisions,
-very strait, crossing one another with all kinds of angles: they
-look like the balks or meres of ploughed lands, and are really made
-of flint over-grown with turf: they are too small for ploughed lands,
-unless of the most ancient Britons, who dealt little that way; but just
-such like have I seen in what I always imagine British camps. Above the
-town of Blandford is an odd intrenchment on a hill, a squarish work,
-with others like the foundation of small towers: a barrow near it.
-
-[Illustration: _A Roman Camp near Bere Regis_ (Ibernium) _Dorsʳ 9 Iun
- 1724._
-
- _Vol. I. p. 81_
-
- _Stukeley delin:_ _E. Kirkall sculp._]
-
-[Sidenote: +Blandford.+]
-
-Blandford is a pretty town, pleasantly seated in a flexure of
-the river, before charming meadows, and rich lands. Wood thrives
-exceedingly here: indeed this country is a fine variety of downs,
-woods, lawns, arable, pasture, and rich valleys; and an excellent air:
-the dry easterly winds, the cold northern, and the western moisture,
-are tempered by the warm southern saline breezes from the ocean, and
-nearest the sun. The incredible number of barrows that over-spread
-this country from the sea-side to North Wiltshire, persuade me a
-great people inhabited here before the _Belgæ_, that came from Spain,
-which we may call the _Albionites_: but it is not a time to discourse
-of that. This year, wherever I travelled, I found the bloom of the
-hedge-rows, and indeed all trees whatever, excessively luxuriant beyond
-any thing I ever knew. In this part the _buck-thorn_, or _rhamnus
-catharticus_, is very plentiful; and a traveller, if he pleases, may
-swallow a dozen of the ripe berries, not without use. Near the passage
-of the Icening-street at Crayford is Badbury, a vast Roman camp, where
-antiquities have been found.
-
-[Sidenote: +Wansdike.+]
-
-[Sidenote: +Ibernium.+]
-
-[Sidenote: Ro. _Camp_.]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XLV 2d Vol.]
-
-About three mile beyond this I found another ditch and rampart, which
-I believe to be the first of the colony of the _Belgæ_; it has indeed
-a rude ancient look; so that they made four of these boundaries
-successively as their power enlarged, the last being Wansdike,
-between North and South Wiltshire. By what I could see or learn, in
-travelling over this intricate country, the Roman road passes upon
-a division between Pimpern and Bere hundred to Bere; and that I
-reckon a convenient distance for a station between _Vindogladia_ and
-Dorchester, being near the middle: on one side it is about thirteen
-mile, on the other nine. Now in the last journey of Antoninus before
-mentioned, immediately after _Vindogladia_ follows _Durnovaria M. P._
-IX. Dorchester being very truly nine mile off this town Bere, and
-which is a market-town too, but far otherwise as to Wimbornminster; I
-doubt not but this is the true place designed in the Itinerary; but
-that a town is slipped out of the copies. I think I have fortunately
-discovered it in the famous Ravennas, by which we may have hopes of
-restoring this journey to its original purity. That author mentions
-a town next to _Bindogladia_, which he calls _Ibernium_: this verily
-is our Bere. Mr. Baxter corrects it into _Ibelnium_, and places it at
-Blandford, for no other reason, as I conceive, but because he imagined
-it must necessarily be hereabouts. I was not a little pleased when I
-found my notion highly confirmed by a great and elegant Roman camp upon
-a hill near Bere, I think it is called Woodbury, where a yearly fair
-is kept: this is between Bere and Milburn upon the river: it is doubly
-intrenched, or rather a double camp one within another. This town of
-Bere denominates the hundred too. In this case, where a Roman camp, a
-road, and all distances concur, which in the others are very abhorrent
-from reality, I imagine the reader will find little difficulty in
-passing over to my sentiments. The town is called _Bere Regis_, and the
-camp is the _Æstiva_ to the town. Of Dorchester I have spoken already,
-beyond which is the original of the Icening-street: from thence I
-travelled along the southern coasts, in order to come to the beginning
-of this seventh journey.
-
-[Sidenote: +Moriconium.+]
-
-Wareham is denominated from the passage or ford over the two rivers
-between which it is situate, where now are bridges: this has been a
-Roman town. A great square is taken in, with a very high _vallum_ of
-earth, and a deep ditch: there has been a castle by the water-side,
-west of the bridge, built by William the Conqueror, perhaps upon the
-Roman. It is an old corporation, now decayed, the sands obstructing the
-passage of vessels; and Pool, being better seated, from a fisher’s town
-has rose to be a rich flourishing sea-port, robbing this place. They
-say here have been many parish-churches, and a mint. This is probably
-the _Moriconium_ of Ravennas, as Mr. Baxter asserts. I heard of Roman
-coins being found here. This country is sandy for the most part, as
-commonly toward the sea-coasts. I saw a ruinous religious house as I
-came by the side of the river Frome. This haven is of a vast extent,
-like a sea, having a narrow entry; an indulgent formation of Nature to
-her beloved island of Great Britain. I saw vast stones lying loose upon
-this sand, in some places, like the Wiltshire grey weathers. It is a
-melancholy unpleasant view hereabouts for travellers, when they come
-from the other delightful scenes of the better parts of Dorsetshire:
-it is moory for the most part, full of ling or heath, as on all the
-sea-coasts here, from the chalk-hills in Dorsetshire to those in
-Sussex. Two rocks about Corf castle have an odd appearance hence.
-
-[Sidenote: +Alauna.+]
-
-[Sidenote: +Bolnelaunium.+]
-
-Wimburnminster is a small place, of no great trade: a large old church
-with two towers; the middle one in the cross very old, and most of
-the church before the time of the Conquest: this middle steeple had
-a spire which fell down. The river Stour runs a little way south of
-the town, through a large bridge; _sdour_, a _sibilus_ put to the old
-Celtic word. The river Alen in several divisions runs through the
-town, which makes me think it to be the _Alauna_ of Ravennas, put next
-to _Bolnelaunium_, which I conjecture to be Christ’s-church by the
-sea-side, that being subsequent to _Moriconium_: that it was not Pool,
-as Mr. Baxter places it, is plain from a reason just mentioned, Pool
-being an upstart. Wimburnminster stands in a large extended fruitful
-vale like a meadow, with much wood about it. These rivers abound with
-fish. Here was a nunnery built anno 712, by Cuthburga sister to king
-Ina. King Etheldred was buried here.
-
-[Sidenote: +Regnum.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XLVI. 2d Vol.]
-
-[Sidenote: Br. _oppidum_.]
-
-From hence I went to Ringwood upon the river Avon, over a deep sandy
-moor; which has ever been thought the _Regnum_ in the Itinerary, and
-begins the _Iter septimum_ of Antoninus. It is a large thriving place,
-full of good new brick houses, seated by the side of a great watery
-valley, the river dividing itself into several streams, and frequently
-overflowing large quantities of the meadow: it seems well calculated
-to have been an old British town: they deal pretty much in leather
-here, and woollen manufactures of stockings, druggets, narrow cloth.
-Roman discoveries I could make little; but the name and distances seem
-to establish the matter: so I hastened through New Forest, where I
-found it necessary to steer by the compass, as at sea. They tell us
-at Wattonsford the memory of Tyrrel is still preserved, as passing
-over there when he unawares shot William Rufus. The soil is sand,
-gravel, stone, clay by parcels: these are pleasant solitudes for a
-contemplative traveller, did not the intricacies of the roads give one
-uneasiness. Here are whole acres of the most beautiful _fox-gloves_
-that one can see, rising upon a strong stem, adorned with numerous
-bell-flowers as high as one’s horse. Mr. Baxter has a right notion of
-this name, signifying _lemurum manicæ_, from the supposed fairies.
-I take these names, and foxes bells, and the like, to be reliques
-of the Druids, who did great cures by them; for this is a plant of
-powerful qualities, when prudently administered, in a constitution
-that will bear it. I observe we derive the names of very many plants
-from the old Celtic language, as I believe the Greeks and Latins did
-likewise. The king’s house, as called still, was at Lyndhurst: the duke
-of Bolton has a hunting-seat thereabouts. I rode through an old camp in
-the midst of the forest: it is overgrown with wood, seems to have been
-round: at bottom is a spring: no doubt but it is a British _oppidum_.
-You may see Southampton from thence. They say the king was killed
-hereabouts. Here is a great plantation of young oaks, for the use of
-the crown: a great deal of fine oak-timber left; but the beech-trees
-are very stately and numerous.
-
-[Illustration: 46·2ᵈ. _Prospect of_ Ringwood _14 June 1724 +Regnum+._
-
- _Stukeley del_: _E. Kirkall sculp_:]
-
-[Illustration: 83 Prospect of +Winchester+ from the South 9 Sep. 1723.
- +VENTA+ Belgarum.
-
- A. _the Cathedral._
- B. _the Kings house_
- C. _the Bishops Palace_
- D. _the College_
- E. _the Ro: road to Southampton_
- F. _the Ro: Road to old Sarum_
- G. _Ro: road to Speen & Silchester_
-
- _Dno Rogero Mostyn Barrᵗᵗᵒ.
- tab. d.d. Wˢ. Stukeley._
-
- _Wᵐ. Rufus his Tomb_
-
- _Stukeley del_:]
-
-[Sidenote: +Arminis.+]
-
-Romsey was unquestionably a Roman town, and its present name shows as
-much. The church is a noble old pile of architecture, arched with stone
-in the form of a cross, with semi-circular chapels in the upper angles.
-These churches, hereabouts called minsters, were doubtless built by
-the Saxon kings as soon as they became christian: the manner of their
-structure is much like those built by queen Helena in Palestine: at
-the west end of it is a bit of an old wall, perhaps belonging to the
-nunnery built here by king Edgar. I heard of a silver Roman coin found
-here. This town is an old corporation, in situation extraordinary
-pleasant, having woods, corn-fields, meadows, pastures, around it in
-view: the river and rivulets, which are many, have a rapid course.
-
-[Sidenote: +Venta Belgarum.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LXXXIII.]
-
-Two miles before I came to Winchester, the downs of chalk begin
-again with barrows upon them. I saw several double ones. The walls
-of Winchester inclose a long square about 700 paces one way, 500 the
-other: it stands on the western declivity of a hill, the river running
-below on the east. Many branches, and cuts of it too, pass through the
-midst of the city, and render their gardens very pleasant: the walls
-and gates, as repaired in times long after the Roman, and chiefly of
-flint, are pretty intire; no doubt, built upon the old Roman. In the
-higher part of the city is the castle, which overlooks the whole:[138]
-here is a famed round table, where king Arthur’s knights used to sit. I
-saw some great ruins still left of the walls and towers that belonged
-to it; but the main of it was pulled down when Sir Christopher Wren
-projected the king’s palace there in king Charles the IId’s reign:
-it fronts the west end of the cathedral. The houses in the town were
-bought in order to make a street between both, which would have had a
-noble effect. This palace is a large pile of building, and beautiful,
-yet with all the plainness that was necessary to save an extravagant
-expence, or that became a royal retirement: it fills up three sides
-of a large square, so that the opening of the wings or front looks
-over the city: three tier of windows, twenty-six in a row, fill up
-every side externally, besides the fronton in the middle of each side,
-composed of four Corinthian pilasters: a handsome balustrade runs
-quite round the top: the inside of this open court is more elegant,
-and enriched with portico’s, &c. the late duke of Tuscany gave some
-fine marble pillars towards the adorning it. A great bridge was to
-have been built across the foss in the principal front; and a garden,
-park, &c. were to have been made before the back front: the citizens
-entertain great hopes, that since the happy increase of the royal
-family, this palace will be finished: it is of plain brick-work, but
-the window-cases, fascias, cornice, &c. of good Portland stone. There
-is a great old chapel near it. This place was the residence of the
-potent kings of the West Saxons.
-
-The cathedral is a venerable and large pile: the tower in the middle
-and transept are of ancienter work than the choir and the body. Inigo
-Jones has erected a delicate screen of stone-work before the choir.
-Here was the burial-place of many Saxon and Norman kings, whose remains
-the impious soldiers in the civil wars threw against the painted glass:
-they show too the tomb of king Lucius. Queen Mary was here married to
-Philip of Spain: the chair used in that ceremony is still preserved.
-In the body of the church is a very ancient font, with odd sculptures
-round it. In the city is a pretty cross of Gothic workmanship, but ill
-repaired. Without the southern gate is a stately fabric, the college,
-erected and endowed by William of Wickham, bishop here, for education
-of youth. There is good painted glass of imagery in the chapel windows:
-in the middle of the cloysters is a strong stone building, the library,
-well contrived to prevent fire: the school is a more modern structure,
-handsome, with a very good statue of the founder over the door, made
-by Cibber. This country is intirely chalk, whence I suppose the name
-of _Venta_: the city is a genteel and pleasant place, and abounds with
-even the elegancies of life. Beyond the river eastward is a high hill,
-called St. Giles’s, from an hospital once there; now only some ruins of
-it to be seen, and a church-yard, seeming to have been a camp, beside
-the marks of bastions, and works of fortifications in the modern stile.
-Here Waltheof, earl of Northumberland and Huntingdon, was beheaded, by
-order of William I. whose body was carried to Crowland, and asserted to
-have miraculous virtues.
-
-In digging the foundation of a house near the college, in a stone
-coffin was found a stone set in a gold ring, with this inscription in
-very old characters, supposed about the sixth century.
-
- _Duce domino comite fidele meo._
-
-A mile to the south of Winchester is a magnificent hospital, called
-Holy Cross, founded by bishop Blois: the church is in the form of a
-cross, and has a large square tower. Over it, on the other side the
-river, hangs a camp upon St. Catharine’s hill, with a _brachium_
-reaching down to the water side, for convenience of that element. The
-way between Winchester and Southampton we perceived plainly to be a
-Roman road, especially as far as the chalk reached: then we came to a
-forest where the soil is gravelly all the way.
-
-[Sidenote: +Southampton.+]
-
-Southampton was strongly walled about with very large stones, full of
-those little white shells, like honey-combs, that grow upon the back
-of oysters: this is a sort of stone extremely hard, and seems to be
-gathered near the beach of the sea. These walls have many lunettes, and
-towers, in some places doubly ditched; but the sea encompasses near
-half the town: it was built in the time of king Edward III. I observe
-they have a method of breaking the force of the waves here, by laying a
-bank of sea-ore, as they call it: it is composed of long, slender, and
-strong filaments, like pilled hemp, very tough and durable; I suppose
-it is thrown up by the ocean: and this performs its work better than
-walls of stone, or natural cliff. At the south-east corner, near the
-quay, is a fort with some guns upon it, called the Tower: on one we saw
-this inscription,
-
- _Henricus_ VIII. _Anglie, Franciæ_ & _Hiberniæ rex,
- fidei defensor invictissimus f. f._
- MD. XXXXII. HR. VIII.
-
-In the north-west corner was a strong castle with a mount, walled
-about at top, as a keep: upon this a round stone tower, with a
-winding ascent: the Anabaptists are about pulling it down, to build
-a meeting-house. The main of this town consists of one broad street,
-running through its length: there are many old religious ruins,
-and great warehouses, cellars, store-houses, &c. but with their trade
-gone to decay. It was a great sea-port not long since, and had the
-sole privilege, by charter, of importing wine from France, till they
-foolishly sold it to the city of London.
-
-[Illustration: 80 +Portvs Magnvs+ _12 Sep. 1723. Portchester_
-
- _Stukeley d._
-
- _View in the_ Port.]
-
-[Illustration: 79 _Prospect of_ Southampton _from the East Sep 11.
- 1723._
- +Travsantvm+
-
- A. _Sᵗ. Mary’s where the old_ Trausantum _Stood_
-
- _Stukeley d._
-
- _Prospect from_ Portsmouth]
-
-[Sidenote: +Trausantum.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LXXIX.]
-
-The old Roman city stood more eastward, upon the banks of the river
-Itching coming from Winchester, where now is a hamlet called St.
-Mary’s. There is a handsome new church built upon the ruins of an old
-one, which they say was burnt in some French wars: it is near the
-present ferry and opposite to Bittern. Many antiquities have been found
-upon the site of the old city. Likewise at Bittern was an old Roman
-castle, surrounded by a ditch, into which the sea-water flowed: many
-antiquities likewise have hence been produced, of which Mr. Camden
-gives us an account. Perhaps the buildings on both sides the river
-were comprehended under one name of _Trausantum_; therefore this river
-must have been the _Antona_: it was ruined in the Danish wars, and
-Southampton arose from its ashes. This is the place memorable for the
-famous experiment of king Canute, who sitting upon the banks of the
-river, crowned and in regal robes, commanded the tide not to approach
-his footstool; but the ocean, like an unlimited monarch, was as
-regardless of his menaces, as the Hellespont, of Xerxes his bridles and
-fetters.
-
-[Sidenote: +Portus Magnus.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LXXX.]
-
-Leaving this lesson of the perishing glory of monarchs and cities too,
-we journeyed to Portsmouth, an entertaining sight of the maritime
-majesty of Great Britain, in this point excelling the ancient Roman
-grandeur. Over a moory common we passed by Fareham, and by Portchester,
-a castle made out of a Roman city. We have little reason to doubt that
-this is the _portus magnus_ of Ptolemy, as it deserves to be called,
-where a thousand sail of the biggest ships may ride secure: the mouth
-of it is not so broad, as the Thames at Westminster, and that secured
-by numerous forts; on Gosport side, Charles fort, James fort, Borough
-fort, which name seems to intimate a Roman citadel formerly there;
-Blockhouse fort, which has a platform of above twenty great guns level
-with the water: and on the other side, by Portsmouth, Southsea castle,
-built by Henry VIII. of a like model with those I saw near Deal upon
-the Kentish shore.
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LXXIX.]
-
-Portsmouth is the most regular fortification, of the modern manner,
-which we have in England; a curious sight to those that have not been
-out of it. The government has bought more ground lately for additional
-works, and no doubt it is capable of being made impregnable; for
-a shallow water may be brought quite round it. Here is one of the
-greatest arsenals for the royal navy: above thirty men of war of the
-highest rates lie here, capable of being fitted out in less than a
-fortnight; among them, the Royal William, that can play off at once 120
-battering-rams of brass, infinitely more forceable than that famous
-one Titus used against the walls of Jerusalem. The yards, the docks,
-the store-houses, where all their furniture is laid up in the exactest
-order, so that the men can go in the dark and fetch out any individual,
-is a sight beyond imagination. The immense quantities of cables,
-masts and tackle, of great guns, bullets, bombs, carcasses, mortars,
-granado’s, &c. these of all sorts and sizes, and the regular methods
-they are reposited in and distinguished by, are prodigious, and no
-where to be equalled but in England; for when I was informed that this
-place is outdone, in all the particulars, both at Chatham and Plymouth,
-there was no more room left for wonder. The Royal William’s mast is a
-noble piece of timber 124 foot long, and this is only the bottom part
-of the main mast; it is 36 inches diameter, clear timber: its lantern
-is like a summer-house: its great anchor and all accoutrements are
-equally astonishing. The rope-house is 870 foot long, one continued
-room, almost a quarter of a mile: we chanced to have the pleasure of
-seeing a great cable made here; it requires 100 men to work at it, and
-so hard the labour, that they can work but four hours in a day. The
-least complement of men continually employed in the yard is a thousand,
-and that but barely sufficient ordinarily to keep the naval affairs
-in good repair. But I have talked enough of matters so much out of my
-sphere. I was sorry to leave this amazing scene of naval grandeur, with
-the shocking sight of a wretched statue of king William, gilt indeed in
-an extraordinary manner; but of all the bad works in this fort, I have
-seen, it is the very last. From Portsmouth there is a fine prospect of
-the isle of Wight, famous for Vespasian’s first attempts in subduing
-the southern parts of Britain: its beautiful elevations, some woody,
-some downy, its towns, havens and white cliffs, at this distance, seem
-to persuade one it is an epitome of Great Britain, as that of the
-world; or that Nature made it as an essay, or copy, of her greater and
-more finished work. Before I leave Portsmouth I shall set down this
-catalogue of the British fleet as it stands this present year, given
-me by an officer; by which some people, fond of magnifying the mimic
-endeavours of some other powers, may calculate, if they please, when
-such will come up to rival it.
-
- Rates. Guns. Nᵒ of each rate. Complement of men
- to each.
- _1st._ 100 7 780
- _2d._ 90 13 680
- _3d._ 80 16 520
- 70 24 440
- ————
- 60
- ————
- _4th._ 60 18 365
- 50 46 280
- 124
- ————
- _5th._ 40 24 190
- 30 4 155
- ————
- 152
- ————
- _6th._ 20 27 130
- ———— ————
- 179 3540
- ———— ————
- The whole complement
- of men 55720.
- Fire-ships 3
- Bombs 3
- Sloops 13
- Yachts 12
- Hoys 11
- Smacks 2
- Hulks 7
- Store-ships 1
- Hospital-ships 1
- ————
- 232
-
-[Illustration: 82 _Prospect of_ Portsmouth, the Isle of Wight
- Gosport, Portchester &c Sep. 13. 1723._
-
- A. _The Isle of Wight._ B. _Southsea Castle._ D. _Portsmouth._ E.
- _Landgard fort._ F. _Gosport._ G. _Portchester._ H. _Portsdown
- hill._
-
- _Prospect of_ Chichester _Sep. 14. 1723._ _Stukeley del._]
-
-[Illustration: 81 +Mantantonis+
- _Sep. 14. 1723._
-
- A. _Where the Roman Temple stood_
- B. _Grey-fryers_
- C. _Black fryers_
- D. _Sᵗ. Marys Hospital_
-
- _Stukeley Delin._ _Parker Sculpᵗ._]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LXXXII.]
-
-I observed, the great quantity of water and ditches about this place
-is apt to render it aguish. The reader will excuse me from giving
-any description of the fortifications here, for the same reason that
-I did not offer to draw any thing; but passing by draw-bridges,
-bastions, gates, fosses, counterscarps, &c. we repeated our steps to
-the Ports-down hills, which are of chalk, and at a reasonable distance
-from the shore extend themselves into Sussex; leaving to the south a
-less elevated, woody, and rich country. Here we turned to admire the
-delightful view of the ground we had passed, and that we were going to:
-the ports, creeks, bays, the ocean, the castles fixt, and those moving
-on the water, the isle of Wight in its full extent, all lay before us,
-and under the eye, as in a map: Portchester, Gosport, which is a very
-considerable town, Portsmouth, Southampton, Chichester, and all the
-sea-coast from Portland isle to the Sussex coasts, were taken in at one
-ken. I took a little sketch of it in passing, in plate 82.
-
-We found some of the Roman way upon this ridge, which I suppose went
-through Fareham and Havant, between _Trausantum_ and Chichester, with
-a vicinal turning out to Portchester: it goes east and west. We passed
-by a large long barrow. We were led to Chichester by the fame of a
-most ancient inscription lately discovered there, whereof transcripts
-were handed about, that appeared not exact enough: this has revived
-the lustre of Chichester; for, though the termination of its name, and
-a Roman road called Stane-street coming to it, is evidence sufficient
-of its being a Roman city, yet none has positively affirmed it,
-because we have not hitherto been able to assign it a name. Mr. Camden
-satisfied himself that it owed its name and foundation to Cissa, the
-South-Saxon king. It is probable the city was destroyed soon after the
-Romans evacuated this kingdom, either in the wars between the Britons
-and first Saxons, or by the plundering Danes, who ravaged all the
-sea-coasts; so that its name was utterly forgot: but Cissa becoming
-master of this country, and there chusing to fix his seat, repaired the
-ancient castle or walls, whose _vestigia_ were of too lasting materials
-wholly to have lost the appearance of their workmanship: then it was
-natural enough to prefix his name to this Roman termination, by which
-the Saxons always called castles of the Romans: or it might be simply
-called _caster_, _chester_, as was frequent in other places, till he
-restored it; and then it took his name, importing _Cissa’s chester_:
-but had it been originally founded by him, it would never have assumed
-that adjunct.
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LXXXI.]
-
-I doubt not but the walls of the present city are built upon the old
-Roman foundations chiefly. It is of a roundish form, the river running
-under part of the walls. Two principal streets cross it at right
-angles upon the cardinal points, where stands a curious cross erected
-by bishop Read. The church takes up one of these quadrants: it is
-remarkable for two side-ailes on both sides, and the pictures of all
-the kings and queens of England since Cissa, which are hung upon the
-wall of the southern transept; all the bishops on the opposite wall.
-Eastward of the cathedral is a place called the _Pallant_, which seems
-derived from the Latin _palatium_. In the middle of North-street was
-dug up this memorable inscription, which I have printed in plate 49. To
-your explication of it nothing can be added: the reader and myself will
-be obliged to you for the leave you have given me here to insert it. It
-was happy we took great care in transcribing the letters; for, since it
-has been in the possession of the duke of Richmond, I hear a workman,
-who pretended to set the fragments together, has defaced it.
-
-
- _An Account of a_ ROMAN INSCRIPTION _found at_ Chichester.
-
- _By_ +Roger Gale+, _Esq._
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XLIX.]
-
-This inscription, as curious as any that has yet been discovered in
-Britain, was found, the beginning of last April, at Chichester, in
-digging a cellar under the corner house of St. Martin’s lane, on the
-north side, as it comes into North-street. It lay about four foot
-under ground, with the face upwards: by which it had the misfortune
-to receive a great deal of damage from the picks of the labourers, as
-they endeavoured to raise it; for, besides the defacing of several
-letters, what was here disinterred of the stone was broke into four
-pieces: the other part of it, still wanting, is, in all probability,
-buried under the next house, and will not be brought to light till
-that happens to be rebuilt. The inscription is cut upon a grey Sussex
-marble, the length of which was six Roman feet, as may be conjectured
-by measuring it from the middle of the word TEMPLVM to that end of it
-which is intire, and is not altogether three foot English, from the
-point mentioned: the breadth of it is 2 and ¾ of the same feet; the
-letters beautifully and exactly drawn; those in the two first lines
-three inches long, and the rest 2¼.
-
-Being at Chichester in September last with Dr. Stukeley, we took an
-accurate view of this marble, which is now fixed in the wall under
-a window within the house where it was found; and, that we might be
-as sure of the true reading as possible, wherever the letters were
-defaced, we impressed a paper with a wet sponge into them, and by that
-means found those in the fifth line to have been as we have expressed
-them above, and not as in other copies that have been handed about of
-this inscription.
-
-The only letter wanting in the first line is an N before EPTVNO, and
-so no difficulty in reading that. As to the second, though it was more
-usual, in inscriptions of this nature, to express the donation by the
-word SACRVM only, referring to the _temple_, or _altar_, dedicated;
-yet we have so many instances, in Gruter’s _Corpus Inscriptionum_, of
-TEMPLVM and ARAM also cut on the stones, that there is not the least
-occasion to say any thing farther upon that point.
-
-The third line can be no other way filled up, than as I have done it by
-the pricked letters: I must own, however, that I have had some scruple
-about the phrase of DOMVS DIVINA, the same thing as DOMVS AVGVSTA,
-the _imperial family_; which I cannot say occurs, with any certainty
-of the time it was used in, before the reign of Antoninus Pius, from
-whom, down to Constantine the Great, it is very frequently met with in
-inscriptions. This kept me some time in suspence, whether this found
-at Chichester could be of so early a date as the time of Claudius:
-but as we find several inscriptions in Gruter with those words in
-them, or I. H. D. D. _In Honorem Domus Divinæ_, which is much the same
-thing, without any mark of the time when they were cut, they may have
-been before the reign of Antoninus Pius, and then only came into more
-general use; and as the time that Cogidunus lived in, will not let
-this be of a later standing, I think we may offer it as an authority
-for the use of this piece of flattery to the emperors long before that
-excellent prince came to the purple.
-
-The third line, as I believe, was EX AVCTORITATE. TIB. CLAVD. and the
-fourth COGIDVBNI. R. LEG. &c. that is, _Ex auctoritate Tiberii Claudii
-Cogidubni regis, legati Augusti in Britannia_; for the following
-reasons: we are informed by Tacitus, _in vita Agricolæ_, _cap._ 14.
-that after Britain had been reduced to a Roman province by the
-successful arms of Aulus Plautius, and Ostorius Scapula, under the
-emperor Claudius, _Quædam civitates_ Cogiduno Regi _erant donatæ, is
-ad nostram usque memoriam fidissimus remansit, vetere ac jam pridem
-recepta Populi Romani confsuetudine ut haberet instrumenta servitutis_ &
-Reges. This _Cogidunus_ seems to be the same person as _Cogidubnus_ in
-our inscription, the letter B in the third syllable making little or no
-difference in the word, especially if pronounced soft, as it ought to
-be, like a V consonant.
-
-It is so well known to have been the custom of the Roman _Liberti_ and
-_Clientes_, to take the names of their patrons and benefactors, it
-would be wasting of time to prove the constant usage of that practice.
-Now, as this _Cogidubnus_, who in all probability was a petty prince of
-that part of the _Dobuni_ which had submitted to Claudius, and one that
-continued many years faithful to him and the Romans, (_vide Tacit. ut
-supra_) had given him the government of some part of the island by that
-emperor, nothing could be more grateful in regard to Claudius, nor more
-honourable to himself, after he was _romanised_, than to take the names
-of a benefactor to whom he was indebted for his kingdom, and so call
-himself TIBERIVS CLAVDIVS COGIDVBNVS.
-
-I suppose him to have been a _Regulus_ of the _Dobuni_; because we
-are told by Dion Cassius (_in lib._ lx.) that Aulus Plautius having
-put to flight Cataratacus and _Togodumnus_, sons of Cunobelin, part
-of the _Boduni_ (the same people as the _Dobuni_) who were subject to
-the _Catuellani_, submitted to the Romans; and the name _Cogidubnus_,
-or _Cogiduvnus_, *Coc o Dubn*, or *Duvn*, (_vid. Baxteri
-Glossar. in verbis_ Cogidumnus, & Dobuni) signifying expresly in the
-British language PRINCEPS DOBVNORVM, seems to put the matter out of all
-doubt.
-
-How far his territories extended, it is impossible to define. Bishop
-Stillingfleet, _Orig. Britan._ p. 63. supposes them to have lain in
-Surrey and Sussex. Sussex certainly was part of them, since the temple
-mentioned in this inscription was erected in it by his authority; and
-it is not unlikely, that besides the _Regni_, who were the people of
-those two counties, he might have that part of the _Dobuni_ which had
-submitted to the Romans, and seems to have been his own principality,
-together with the _Ancalites_, _Bibroci_ and _Segontiaci_, whose
-countries lay between the _Dobuni_ and the _Regni_, bestowed upon him;
-the words _civitates quædam_, in Tacitus, not importing no more than
-some _few towns_, but _several people_; the word _civitas_ always
-signifying a _people_ in that historian.
-
-Before I proceed any farther, it will not be amiss to observe, that
-_Togodumnus_ and _Cogidubnus_, though their names are so much alike,
-were two distinct persons: the first was son of Cunobelin, king of the
-_Trinobantes_, vanquished and killed in battle by Aulus Plautius; the
-second, a prince that submitted to Ostorius Scapula, and continued
-in his fidelity to the Romans, _in nostram usque memoriam_, says
-Tacitus, who was born at the latter end of Claudius’s reign; so that
-_Togodumnus_ was probably dead before _Cogidubnus_ had his government
-conferred upon him.
-
-I call it his government; for though, by the letter ·R· standing in the
-inscription with a point both before and after it, by which it plainly
-denotes an intire word of itself, it may seem that it was intended
-for COGIDVBNI REGIS, and I believe was so in respect of his _quondam_
-dignity, yet it is evident, that he had condescended to take the title
-of LEGATVS AVGVSTI IN BRITANNIA from Claudius: and that too must have
-been only over those people that he had given him the government of;
-Aulus Plautius, Ostorius Scapula, Didius Gallus, Avitus Veranius, and
-Suetonius Paullinus, having the supreme command successively about
-this time in this island, the second and last of which are called
-expresly _Legati_ by Tacitus, _lib._ xii. _Ann. cap._ 23. & _Vit.
-Agric. cap._ 15. The _Legati Cæsaris_, or _Augusti,_ were those _qui
-Cæsaribus subditas regebant Provincias_.
-
-The sixth line has lost at the beginning the letters COLLE; but so much
-remains of the word, as makes it to have been indubitably, when intire,
-COLLEGIVM; and the following letters are an abbreviation of FABRORVM.
-
-These colleges of artificers were very ancient at Rome, as ancient as
-their second king Numa Pompilius, if we may believe Plutarch (_in vit.
-Numæ_) who tells us, that the people were divided by him into what we
-at this day call _Companies of Tradesmen_, and mentions the Τέκτονες
-or _Fabri_ among them; though Floras (_lib._ i. _cap._ 6.) says, that
-_Populus Romanus a_ Servio Tullio _relatus suit in Censum, digestus in
-Classes, Curiis atque_ Collegiis _distributus_. But as the power of the
-Romans extended itself, it carried the arts of that great people along
-with it, and improved the nations that it subdued, by civilizing, and
-teaching them the use of whatever was necessary or advantageous among
-their conquerors; from which most wise and generous disposition, among
-other beneficial institutions, we find these _Collegia_ to have been
-established in every part of the empire, from the frequent mention
-of them in the inscriptions collected by Gruter, Spon, and other
-antiquaries.
-
-Several sorts of workmen were included under the name of _Fabri_,
-particularly all those that were concerned in any kind of building;
-whence we meet with the _Fabri Ferrarii_, _Lignarii_, _Tignarii_,
-_Materiarii_, _Navales_, and others: the last named may have been
-the authors of dedicating this temple to Neptune, having so near a
-relation to the sea, from which the city of Chichester is at so small
-a distance, that perhaps that arm of it which still comes up within
-two miles of its walls, might formerly have washed them. The rest
-of the fraternity might very well pay the same devotion to Minerva,
-the Goddess of all arts and sciences, and patroness of the Dædalian
-profession.
-
-As no less than five letters are wanting at the beginning of the sixth
-line, there cannot be fewer lost at the beginning of the seventh, where
-the stone is more broke away than above; so that probably there were
-six when it was perfect. What we have left of them is only the top of
-an S: I will not therefore take upon me to affirm any thing as to the
-reading of them, which is so intirely defaced: perhaps it was A. SACR.
-S. _a sacris sunt_; perhaps it was HONOR. S. _Honorati sunt_: as to the
-former, we find these _Collegia_ had their _Sacerdotes_; therefore _Qui
-a sacris sunt_, which is found in inscriptions, (_vid. Grut. Corp._
-xxix. 8. cxxi. +I. DCXXXII. I.+) would be no improper term to express
-them; or it might have been SACER. S. _sacerdotes sunt_, since we find
-such mentioned in the following inscriptions. _Spon. Miscell. Erud.
-Antiq._ p. 58.
-
- MAVORTI SACRVM
- HOC SIGNVM
- RESTIT _ _ _ _ _
- COLL. FABR. ARI
- CINORVM ANTIQVISS.
- VETVSTATE
- DILAPSVM ET
- REFECER. CVR. L. LVCILIVS
- LATINVS PROC. R. P. ARIC.
- ET T. SEXTIVS MAGGIVS
- SACER. COLL. EIVSD.
-
-_Mavorti sacrum hoc Signum restituit Collegium_ Fabrorum Aricinorum
-_Antiquissimum, vetustate dilapsum, & refecerunt. Curabant Lucius
-Lucilius Latinus, Procurator Reipublicæ Aricinorum, & Titus Sextius
-Maggius_ Sacerdos _Collegii ejusdem_,
-
-Ibid. p. 64.
-
- L. TERTENI AMANTI
- SACER. COLL. LOTORVM
- IIVIR. C. SARTIVS C. F.
- ITERINVS ET L. ALLIVS
- PETELINVS D. D.
-
-_Lucius Tertenius Amantius_ Sacerdos _Collegii Lotorum, Duumviri Caius
-Sartius, Caii Filius, Iterinus, & Lucius Allius Petelinus Dedicaverunt_.
-
-As to the latter, those members of the college that had passed
-through the chief Offices of it, as that of _Præfectus_, or _Magister
-quinquennalis_, had the title of HONORATI conferred upon them: you have
-several of these HONORATI mentioned in Gruter, particularly a long
-catalogue of them _in Collegio Fabrorum Tignariorum_, p. +CCLXVIII. I.+
-and in Reinesius’s _Syntagma_, p. 605. there is an inscription,
-
- EPAGATHO TVRANNO
- HONORATO COLLEGI
- FABRVM TIGNARIORVM
- ROMANENSIVM _&c._
-
-So that the vacuity in our inscription may very well have been filled
-up with one or other of these words; and the three next letters that
-follow them, D. S. D. _de suo dedicaverunt_, will agree with either of
-them, and what precedes them.
-
-The last line has been PVDENTE PVDENTINI FILio: but there must have
-been a letter or two of the _prænomen_ at the beginning of it, unless
-it was shorter than the rest at that, as well as at the latter end of
-it: and from what I have said, the whole may be read as follows:
-
- _Neptuno & Minervæ Templum pro Salute Domus Divinæ, ex Auctoritate
- Tiberii Claudii Cogidubni Regis, Legati Augusti in Brittanniâ,
- Collegium Fabrorum, & Qui in eo a Sacris [or Honorati] sunt, De suo
- Dedicaverunt, Donante aream Pudente Pudentini Filio._
-
- Chichester, by this inscription found at it, must have been a
- town of eminence very soon after the Romans had settled here, and
- in process of time seems to have been much frequented, by the
- Roman roads, still visible, that terminate here from Portsmouth,
- Midhurst, and Arundel; though, what is very strange, we have no
- Roman name now for it. I once thought it might have put in its
- claim for _Anderida_, which our antiquaries have not yet agreed
- to fix any where, being situated, very near, both to the _Sylva
- Anderida_, and the _southern Coast_ of the island, the two
- properties of that city: _vid._ Camb. Brit. and Somner’s Roman
- Ports and Forts. But Henry of Huntingdon, who lived in the time of
- Henry II. telling us, that the Saxons so destroyed _Andredecester_,
- that _Nunquam postea reædificata fuit, & locus tantum quasi
- nobilissimæ urbis transeuntibus ostenditur desolatus_, pag. 312.
- (_Vid._ Dr. Tabor’s Discourse of _Anderida_, Philos. Transact. Nᵒ
- 356.) it could not be Chichester; for that was not only rebuilt
- before his time, but was a place of such note, that when the
- bishops, soon after the Conquest, anno Dom. 1076. removed their
- churches from small decayed towns, where several of them were then
- seated, _in urbes celebriores_, Stigand, then bishop of Selsey,
- settled his episcopal chair at that place.
-
- I shall conclude with observing, that when this inscription was
- dug up, there were also two walls of stone discovered close by
- it, three foot thick each, one running north, the other east, and
- joining in an angle, as the North-street and St. Martin’s lane now
- turn, which, in all probability, were part of the foundations of
- the temple mentioned on the marble.
- October 31. 1723.
-
-To this judicious elucidation of the inscription I have nothing to
-add, but that it seems to me probable enough, that Pudens, mentioned
-therein to have given the ground upon which the temple was built, was
-that Aulus Pudens who married the famous British lady Claudia Rufina,
-celebrated for her wit, beauty and eloquence. There is room enough in
-the stone to suppose the letter A at least, as his _prænomen_ was in
-that part which is lost. _Moncæius de incunab. regiis eccles. christ.
-vet. Britann._ thinks Claudia, mentioned by St. Paul,[139] 2 Tim. iv.
-21. was daughter of the renowned Caratacus, converted to christianity
-by him, and married to this Pudens, a Roman Senator. But this may be
-judged rather too early, on account of the time of St. Paul’s death,
-and that wherein Martial lived, who wrote two elegant epigrams upon
-her; and we may with more likelihood conclude her to be the daughter
-of our _Cogidunus_, who lived to Tacitus his time, which was the same
-as Martial’s: and there is equal reason for the name of Claudia to be
-given her in honour of Claudius the emperor, as for the king her father
-taking the same upon himself, as appears in this inscription. Martial’s
-first epigram upon her is the 13th in his IV. _L._ thus,
-
- _Claudia, Rufe, meo nupsit peregrina Pudenti
- Macte esto tædis o hymenæe tuis_ &c.
-
-We may well imagine this was wrote in the reign of Domitian, by the
-first epigram in that book being in honour of that emperor’s birth day;
-and sixteen years at least must have passed between that and the time
-of St. Paul’s death, which happened the last year of Nero. The other
-epigram is the 54th of XI. _L._
-
- _Claudia cœruleis cum sit Rufina Britannis
- Edita, cur Latiæ pectora plebis habet?
- Quale decus formæ! Romanam credere matres
- Italides possunt, Atthides esse suam.
- Dî bene, quod sancto peperit fæcunda marito
- Quot sperat generos, quotque puella nurus.
- Sic placeat superis, ut conjuge gaudeat uno,
- Et semper natis gaudeat illa tribus._
-
-We may conclude, that if she had been of age sufficient to be converted
-by St. Paul, she would about this time have been too old to have
-children, and be accounted beautiful. But times and all circumstances
-conspire sufficiently to make her the daughter of _Cogidunus_.
-
-Famous was the contest between Neptune and Minerva in naming the
-city of Athens, which they referred to the umpire of Apollo: he, to
-avoid the _odium_ of appearing partial on either side, left it to the
-decision of mortal men, as Varro tells us: howsoever, these two deities
-are happily reconciled in a joint partnership of the dedication of this
-temple. The antiquaries are still at variance about the ancient name
-of this city. Therefore, Sir, that I may not be wholly an unworthy
-fellow-traveller, _passibus etsi longe inequalibus_, I shall venture,
-if Minerva is not averse, to offer my thoughts towards a recovery of
-the Roman denomination of Chichester, which appears plainly to have
-been an eminent and early station: though the journey of Antoninus
-reaches it not, yet it would be strange if Ravennas should have passed
-it by, who is very particular in this part of the island.
-
-[Sidenote: +Mantantonis.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LXXXI.]
-
-I observe the river this city stands upon is called _Lavant_. There
-are three towns synonymous higher up, East, West, and Middle Lavant;
-whence I think we may conclude, that the true and original name of
-the river was _Antona_, not an uncommon appellative of such in the
-Celtic dialect: Mr. Baxter, voce _Anderida_, calls it _Ant_. Likewise
-a town called _Hampnet_ stands upon it, which seems some corruption
-of _Antona_. Now there are two rivers of this name falling into the
-southern ocean; that which we spoke of lately, the Itchin, running by
-_Trausantum_; and this we are upon: therefore it appears natural and
-necessary that they should some way or other be distinguished from
-one another: the former _Trausantum_, Mr. Baxter, voce _Antona_, says
-signifies the farther _Antona_; and in this same sense, but in a later
-manner, Ninius calls it _Trahannon_; as our monk Ravennas, _Onna_, by
-a softer pronunciation. Our river then must be the hither or nearer
-_Antona_, however actually distinguished; which we must find out.
-Looking into that author generally called _Anonymus_, though I suppose
-his true name is _Ravennas_, as born there, (it being at that time
-the method of the ecclesiastics to take the sirname of their native
-towns) he thus mentions some cities hereabouts: _Caleba Atrebatum_,
-_Anderesio_, _Miba_, _Mutuantonis_, _Lemanis_, _Dubris_, _&c._ Now
-I imagine _Mutuantonis_ is the place here sought for. This author
-probably transcribed these names from inspection of a map, sometimes
-casting his eye along a road, sometimes a river, sea-coast or the
-like, and sometimes _per saltum_: when he has been reciting many
-names of cities in the inland parts as far as _Corinium Dobunorum_,
-or Cirencester, he returns to the south-east part of the island, and
-begins a new period, as above. Directly in his way to the sea-coasts
-is _Caleba_, or Farnham, as I shall show in proper place: next is
-_Anderida_; which cannot be this place, for the reason you brought out
-of Henry of Huntingdon: no doubt it is somewhere upon the Sussex coast;
-but its particular site I shall not take upon me now to determine.
-_Miba_ is with good reason thought to be Midhurst; then very naturally
-follows _Mutuantonis_, our Chichester: hence he takes his route
-eastward towards _Lemanis_, _Dubris_, _&c._ in Kent. In short, the
-evidence is this: the author is plainly describing these parts; and
-where should _Mutuantonis_ stand, but upon the river _Antona_? and it
-does not appear, that any other river hereabouts is so called; or, if
-it did, _Anderida_ may very well thither be referred, which cannot
-possibly to this place. I take the name of _lavant_, or _mutuant_, to
-be synonymous words in the British language, to distinguish it, as we
-said, from _trausant_;, for _llafar_ signifies _sonorous_, _loquax_;
-and _mwth_ is _citus_, _velox_; either of which, prefixed to _Antona_,
-describe this rapid or noisy river; and in effect we find it remarkably
-so. Dr. Holland in his notes at the bottom of Mr. Camden expresly
-observes, that this river, though sometimes quite dry, at others, and
-that very often in the midst of summer, is so full as to run very
-violently: this, no doubt, is owing to its rise in the neighbouring
-high grounds to the north; for from them it must needs fall with an
-impetuous torrent. Further, it may possibly be derived from the British
-_llai minor_, signifying the _lesser Antona_, from its short course;
-the consonant _v_, or _f_ which is its equivalent, being interposed
-_euphoniæ gratia_: or if Mr. Baxter’s correction of _Mantantonis_ be
-thought just, then it signifies the mouth of the river _Antona_; and
-Chichester now stands very near its inlet into the sea, and formerly
-nearer. What way soever we take it, it seems reasonable to conclude
-this is the place. Though it was not properly a sea-port town, yet
-it is plainly near enough for the establishment of the _collegium
-fabrorum_ here; and the vast plenty of wood from the adjoining
-forest favoured their work, whether of timber or the forge. Since
-this inscription, there was found a Mosaic pavement in Mrs. Downes’s
-garden; and when that was pulled in pieces as usual, a brass coin was
-discovered under it of Nero and Drusus Cæs. on one side, represented on
-horseback; on the other, _C. Cæsar Divi aug. pron. aug. p. m. tr. p._
-+IIII.+ _pp._ which no doubt was there deposited to show the _æra_ of
-that work.
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LXXXII.]
-
-A little way out of the city northward, we passed by a Roman camp,
-called Brill, I suppose Bury hill, in Ogilby’s maps called _Beauty’s
-bank_: the Roman road called Stone-street causeway, goes directly
-north-east from hence through this country, and by Darking church-yard
-in Surrey; then falls into the Hermen-street at Woodcote.
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XLIII.]
-
-[Sidenote: +Mida.+]
-
-St. Roc’s hill is a fine elevation, with a spacious circular camp
-on the top, of a round form, a _castrum æstivum_, belonging to
-_Mantantonis_. Here is a foundation of a chapel, or a beacon, perhaps
-both: the reader may gather an idea of the view here from plate 43. At
-Midhurst is a fine old seat called Cowdrey, belonging to the Browns
-viscount Montacute: it stands in a valley incompassed with lawns, hills
-and woods, thrown into a park, the river running underneath. It is a
-large house of stone, consisting of one court: the hall is cieled of
-Irish oak after the ancient manner; the walls painted with architecture
-by Roberti, the statues by Goupé, the stair-case by Pelegrini: the room
-at the end of the hall is of Holbein’s painting, where that famous
-old artist has described the exploits of Henry VIII. before Bulloign,
-Calais, his landing at Portsmouth, his magnificent entry into London,
-&c. In the other rooms are many excellent pictures of the ancestors
-of the family, and other history-painting of Holbein’s, relating to
-their actions in war. The whole circuit of rooms above stairs are
-stately and well furnished, adorned with many pictures: there is a long
-gallery with the twelve apostles as big as the life; another very neat
-one, wainscotted with Norway oak, where are many ancient whole-length
-pictures of the family in their proper habits, which is a very elegant
-notion: there are four history pieces; two copies of Raphael’s marriage
-of Cupid and Psyche; several old religious and military paintings from
-Battle-abbey. The road to Midhurst to us appeared Roman, and therefore
-strengthens the supposition of its being _Mida_.
-
-St. Roc’s hill is upon the chalky down running east and west: north of
-it to Farnham it is sandy, full of _erica_; but the valleys are rich,
-warm and woody. The heaths between Farnham and Godalmin are full of
-barrows. Ferndon hill in the way to Godalmin is very steep northwards,
-and of an hour’s descent; which you rise to insensibly: it runs east
-and west.
-
-[Sidenote: +Calleva Atrebatum.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. XLIV. 2d Vol.]
-
-At Farnham is the bishop of Winchester’s palace, a magnificent ancient
-structure of the castle-form, deeply moted, and strongly walled about,
-with towers at proper distance: it stands upon the edge of a hill,
-where is a fine park. One large and broad street of the town, below
-hill, fronts the castle; the main of the rest of the town consists of
-a long strait street crossing it at right angles, which is the Roman
-road coming from Winchester: the river runs parallel to it on the
-south: this is a fine rich soil with much sand in it, and has an
-extraordinary propriety for the growth of hops. This place I take to
-be the _Caleva Atrebatum_;[140] which because it is a notion of my
-own advancing, it requires that I should a little enlarge upon it,
-and propose it to your discerning judgement. This has been hitherto
-matter of dispute among antiquaries, and I think cannot otherwise
-be settled than in fixing it at this place: it will make this VIIth
-journey of Antoninus and some more very clear, that otherwise labour
-under insuperable difficulties: therefore this I propose to be the true
-scheme of that journey.
-
-
- ITER VII. _a Regno Londinium M. P._ XCVI. _sic_
-
- _Regnum_ Ringwood
- _Trausantum_ Southampton XX
- _Venta Belgarum_ Winchester X
- _Caleva Atrebatum_ Farnham XXII
- _Pontes_ Stanes XXII
- _Londinium_ London XXII
- ————
- _toto_, XCVI.
-
-We have no difference in the copies, but in the sum total at top, which
-is owing only to a transposition of the letters C and X. therefore all
-we have to do is to find out the towns; the particular numbers being
-indisputably right, and rightly cast up in the _Suritan_ edition;
-and all the places that admit any question, are only _Calleva_ and
-_Pontes_, which in this manner mutually prove one another, as being
-absolutely conformable to geography, and the nearest way one should
-chuse to go at this day, and having from Southampton a Roman road
-accompanying all the way. This summer I rode through Winchester and
-Farnham, through Alresford and Alton, and observed in many places
-signs sufficient of that nature; though it is horridly out of repair,
-and even in the midst of summer very bad, notwithstanding such plenty
-of materials every where to mend it: this has obliged coaches and
-horsemen frequently to make excursions for their ease and safety. Mr.
-Aubury likewise pronounces it a Roman road long since in his manuscript
-collections. Between Farnham and Alton the bank is visible, in several
-places between Alresford and Alton: the right reverend author of the
-additions to Camden takes notice of it. The distance is twenty two
-miles, as in the Itinerary; but to Wallingford, where Mr. Camden places
-it, it is thirty; to Henley somewhat more: beside, from the one you
-must cross the Thames three times, from the other twice in the way
-to London; a thing the Romans would certainly avoid, if possible:
-but from Farnham by way of Stanes is the direct road, and distances
-correspondent as before.
-
-[Illustration: 44·2ᵈ. _Prospect of_ Farnham _Sep: 16. 1723._
-
- +Caleva atrebatvm+
-
- _Stukeley del:_ _E. Kirkall sculp:_]
-
-_Calleva_ is again mentioned in the XIIIth and XIVth journeys, both
-which I have already corrected; and they mutually confirm one another,
-and take away all difficulties when they are considered together.
-Lastly, _Calleva_ is mentioned in the XVth journey of Antoninus: I
-shall exhibit it in this form, which I conceive to be its original one.
-We have cleared all the other parts of it before, where it differs from
-this in the printed copies.
-
-
- ITER XV. _a Caleva Atrebatum, Iscam Dumnoniorum M. P._ CXXXXI. _sic_
-
- _Caleva Atrebatum_ Farnham
- _Vindoma_ Silchester XV
- _Venta Belgarum_ Winchester XXI
- _Brigæ_ by Broughton XI
- _Sorbiodunum_ Old Sarum VIII
- _Vindogladia_ Boroston XII
- Ibernium _Bere regis_ XIIII
- _Durnovaria_ Dorchester IX
- _Moridunum_ Seaton XXXVI
- _Isca Dumnoniorum_ Excester XV
- ——————
- CXXXXI
-
-Perhaps the last X in the sum total was corrupted into a V after the
-station was dropped out. The first part of it here establishes the site
-of _Calleva_ in respect to _Venta Belgarum_; as in the XIIIth and XIVth
-journeys in respect to _Spina_; so that it is proved from different
-points of a triangle, and as it were by mathematical demonstration.
-
-I imagine the occasion of over-sight in this matter is owing to Mr.
-Camden’s settling the _Atrebates_ in Berkshire; and his authority,
-no doubt, with every one is of the greatest weight deservedly: yet
-I suppose his only reason for it is because he thought Wallingford
-the _Calleva Atrebatum_, as having some resemblance to his supposed
-_Gallena_. In his Roman map he has set these _Atrebates_ partly north
-of the Thames in Oxfordshire, where himself puts the _Ancalites_, and
-partly south, where rightly he fixes the _Bibroci_ in Berkshire: this
-is in my judgement too far northward. I doubt not but the _Bibroci_
-inhabited Berkshire intirely to the Thames, as I proved in a former
-letter; to which we may add, that if, as he says, this country was
-called by the Saxons _Berrocscyre_, there can be no difficulty in
-asserting the word derived from _Bibroci_. The _Atrebates_ came
-undoubtedly from _Gallia Belgica_, where were a people of the same
-name upon the sea-coasts; and if we place them here in Surrey about
-this their capital, they may with some propriety with Mr. Camden be
-said here in Britain to live over-against their own country, where
-Ptolemy places them in the maritime parts upon the Sein; but not if he
-sends them up to the top of the Thames: nor is it probable they should
-have penetrated so far up the country, even beyond their brethren the
-_Belgæ_, by all allowed the most powerful colony of transmarine people
-at that time. The _Segontiaci_ as well as _Bibroci_, on this side the
-Thames, would confessedly oppose such passage; therefore, if we give
-Sussex to the _Regni_, we must reserve Surrey for these _Atrebates_,
-and Farnham their capital; and this is agreeable to Ptolemy, who places
-them next the _Cantii_.
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LVI.]
-
-A little without Farnham eastward, the road divides into two branches
-with an acute angle: one goes to Guildford and Darking, where it
-meets the Stane-street coming from Chichester; the other to Stanes,
-which I prosecuted to Farnborow, probably a station or inn, or camp
-to secure the road over this wild country; for it is deep sand from
-Farnham to Egham: but where in particular the Roman road went is not
-easy to define, because of the extraordinary sandiness of the whole
-country:[141] but at Frimley, near here, about sixteen year ago,
-an urn with Roman coins and intaglia’s was found: Mr. Titchburn had
-them. This is directly in the way to Farnbarow. I suppose there was
-a Roman way from Silchester through Stretley, Hartley row, Harford
-bridge, which signifies _trajectus militaris_, but from the mooryness
-of the soil is quite worn away. I take this road to be a continuation
-of that coming from the Bath by Marlborough;[142] but at Stanes I saw
-our road very evidently go through the fields west of the bridge, and
-directly over-against it; for it must be understood that the Romans
-drew a road, as I said before, under the Icening-street, and parallel
-to it, which went from _Regnum_ to London. This is what we have been
-upon, and composes this VIIth _Iter_: From thence it passed through
-Colchester to the sea-coasts of Suffolk. Now between Stanes and London
-it is notorious, being the common road at present, till you come to
-Turnham green:[143] there the present road through Hammersmith and
-Kensington leaves it; for it passes more northward upon the common,
-where to a discerning eye the trace of it is manifest; then it goes
-over a little brook called from it Stanford-bridge, and comes into the
-Acton road at a common, and a bridge, a little west of Camden house, so
-along Hyde-park wall, and crosses the Watling-street at Tyburn, then
-along Oxford-road. But of this part of it, going to Old-street, north
-of London, I spoke before.
-
-[Illustration: 84 _Prospect of Stanes Sept. 16. 1723._
-
- +Pontes+
- _16 Sep. 1723._]
-
-[Sidenote: +Pontes.+]
-
-[Sidenote: TAB. LXXXIV.]
-
-Between Oxford-street and Stanes, this Roman road was originally drawn
-through Brentford, which undoubtedly was a mansion between them; and
-this is a very strait line: I rode the broken part of it between Acton
-road and Turnham green: it is still a narrow strait way, keeping its
-original direction, but full of dangerous sloughs, being a clayey soil
-and never repaired: it butts full upon Stanes bridge, and then beyond
-it passes forward in a strait line through gardens and yards into the
-corn-fields, where its ridge is still left, the highest part of all
-the field, though they plough close to it on both sides; and it is now
-a road for three quarters of a mile; then it enters a narrow lane,
-and at last degenerates into a foot-path toward Thorp-lea, in the way
-to Farnham; the common road leaving it all this while in the way to
-Egham. So that undoubtedly Stanes was the _Pontes_ of Antoninus;[144]
-the distances of 22 miles on both sides answering the fact, and the
-Itinerary; with which I shall at present conclude mine in the words of
-the poet,
-
- _Hic labor extremus, longarum hæc meta viarum._ +Virg.+ Æn. III.
-
-
-
-
- THE
- PLATES
- IN
- _ITINERARIUM CURIOSUM_, Cent. I.
-
- And where explained.
-
- 1. Rural Curiosity. Marlborough _mount, and the cascade at_
- Wilton. Pag. 64
-
- 2. Lincolnshire _decoys_. 18
-
- 3. Seats. _Lord_ Hartford’s _house at_ Marlborough. 64
-
- 4. Ichnography of castles. Ludlow _castle, ground-plot and prospect_. 74
-
- 5. _Prospect of the same._ 74
-
- 6. Views of castles. Rochester _castle_. 120
-
- 7. Bridges. Croyland _bridge_. 34
-
- 8. Ichnography of Palaces. Whitehall _ruins ground-plot_. _Pref._
-
- 9. Ruins of Palaces. _King_ John’_s palace at_ Clarendon. 138
-
- 10. Seals. _Of the church of_ Norwich. _Pref._
-
- 11. Crosses. _St._ Guthlack’_s, Ivy cross_, Ednam,
- Hadenham, _and others_. 12, 19, 34, 107
-
- 12. Waltham _cross_. 37
-
- 13. Prospects. Blackston _cave, &c. near_ Bewdley. 74
-
- 14. Hermitages. Dale _abbey, &c. and_ Blackston _cave
- ground-plot_. 53, 74
-
- 15. Portraits. _Sir_ Harry Spelman. _Pref._
-
- 16. Monumental brasses. _Bishop_ Smith, _founder of_ Brazen-nose
- _college_. 92
-
- 17. Marbles. Aylwin _alderman of_ England. 81
-
- 18. _King_ John’_s effigies at_ Worcester. 68
-
- 19. View of churches. Boston, Lincolnshire. 31
-
- 20. Colsterworth _church_. 85
-
- 21. Holbech _church_. 20
-
- 22. Religious ruins. _Priory of_ Leominster. 72
-
- 23. Gatehouses. Reding _abbey, and_ Worcester _college_. 63
-
- 24. Places of interment
- of archbishops. _St._ Augustin, _St._ Augustin’_s abbey_. 123
-
- 25. _Ruins of that abbey, king_ Ethelbert’_s
- chapel. St._ Gregory’_s chapel_. 120, 123
-
- 26. Kings. Reding _abbey, king_ Harry I. 63
-
- 27. Feversham _abbey, king_ Stephen. 121
-
- 28. Ichnography of abbies. Kirsted _abbey_, Tupholm _abbey_. 88
-
- 29. Shrines. _St._ Hugh _the_ Burgundian’_s shrine_,
- Lincoln. 92
-
- 30. Altars. _The high altar of St._ Alban’_s abbey_. 117
-
- 31. _The backside of the same._ 117
-
- 32. _White fryers in_ Gloucester. 67
-
- 33. _Ichnography of_ Glassenbury _abbey_. 151
-
- 34. _The kitchen there._ 152
-
- 35. _St._ Joseph _of_ Arimathea’_s chapel_. 152
-
- 36. _Ruins of_ Glassenbury _abbey_. 152
-
- 37. _Prospect of the same._ 151, 153
-
- 38. Pictish. _The caves of_ Hauthornden, Scotland. 53
-
- 39. British. _The_ Troglodytes _of_ Nottingham. 53
-
- 40. Greek. _A view at_ Athens. _Pref._
-
- 41. Roman camps. Chlorus _his camp, near_ Clarendon _park_. 137
-
- 42. Oldbury _camp in_ Wiltshire. 141
-
- 43. Camalet _castle and view from St._ Roc’_s
- hill_. 150, 202
-
- 44. Martinsal _hill_, Montacute _hill_, &c. 139, 156
-
- 45. Walls. Silchester _walls, and a_ Roman _camp_. 79
-
- 46. Pharos. Pharos _in_ Dover _castle_. 129
-
- 47. _Ground-plot and section of the same._ 129
-
- 48. Romano-Saxonic. _St._ Martin’_s church_, Canterbury, _and the
- Church in_ Dover-castle. 129
-
- 49. Roman inscriptions. Chichester, _&c._ 148, 196
-
- 50. Amphitheatre. Dorchester _amphitheatre ground-plot_. 165
-
- 51. _From the entrance a view._ 167
-
- 52. _Another view._ 169
-
- 53. _The sections and oblique view of the
- amphitheatre._ 165, 167
-
- 54. Gates. Roman _gate at_ Lincoln _and_ Canterbury. 89, 122
-
- 55. Buildings. _Temple of_ Janus _at_ Leicester. 109
-
- 56. Itinerary. _Of_ Antoninus. 6, 76, 111, 205
-
- 57. Ichnography of
- Roman Cities. Londinium Augusta, _London_. 119
-
- 58. Garionenum _by_ Yarmouth. 132
-
- 59. and Camboritum, Chesterford _Mag._ 78
-
- 60. Prospect of Roman Spinæ, _Newberry_. 63
- Cities.
-
- 61. Vindoma, _Silchester_. 163, 177
-
- 62. Cunetio castrum, Marlborough. 63
-
- 63. _Prospect of_ Marlborough. 63
-
- 64. Leucomagus, _Great Bedwin_. 64
-
- 65. Sorbiodunum, _Old Sarum_. 182
-
- 66. _Prospect of Old_ Sarum. 183
-
- 67. _View of Old and New_ Sarum _from_
- Harnham-hill. 137
-
- 68. Verlucio, _Heddington_. 142
-
- 69. Punctuobice, _the Devizes_. 144
-
- 70. Aquæ Solis, _Bath_. 146
-
- 71. _Prospect of the_ Bath. 146
-
- 72. Ischalis, _Ilchester_. 154
-
- 73. Isca Dumnoniorum, _Exeter_. 156
-
- 74. _Prospect of_ Exeter. 159
-
- 75. Moridunum, _Seaton_. 159
-
- 76. Londinis, _Lyme_. 160
-
- 77. Durnovaria, _Dorchester_. 161, 165
-
- 78. _Prospect of_ Dorchester. 161
-
- 79. Trausantum, _Southampton, and prospect from_
- Portsmouth. 193
-
- 80. Portus Magnus, _Portchester, and view in the
- port_. 193
-
- 81. Mantantonis, _Chichester_. 195, 201
-
- 82. _Prospect of_ Portsmouth _and of_
- Chichester. 195, 202
-
- 83. Venta Belgarum. 191
-
- 84. Pontes, _Stanes_. 205
-
- 85. Ariconium, _Kenchester_. 69
-
- 86. Derventio, _Little Chester by_ Derby. 54
-
- 87. Agelocum, _Littlebury_. 93
-
- 88. Lindum colonia, _Lincoln_. 88
-
- 89. Banovallum, _Horncastle_. 30
-
- 90. Ad Pontem, _by_ Bridgford. 105
-
- 91. Margidunum, _by_ Willoughby. 106
-
- 92. Ratæ Coritanorum, _Leicester_. 108
-
- 93. Benonis, _High-cross_. 110
-
- 94. Tripontium, _Dove-bridge_. 112
-
- 95. Verolanium, _Verolam_. 116
-
- 96. Durovernum, _Canterbury_. 122
-
- 97. Richborough-castle. 125, 163
-
- 98. Lapis tituli, _Folkstone_. 131
-
- 99. Lemanus Portus, _Limne_. 132
-
- 100. Celestial character. _The great conjunction of the five
- Planets._ _Preface._
-
- 101. _Total eclipse of the Sun in 1721._ 179
-
-
-
-
- INDEX.
-
-
- Page
- English.
-
-Birth-Places, Sir _Isaac Newton_ 85
-
-———— Dr. _Willis_ 64
-
-———— Dr. _Harvey_ 131
-
-Champions of _England_ 61
-
-Circular churches 37, 87
-
-Hermitages 34, 49, 53, 55, 61, 74
-
-K. _John_’s palace 138
-
-K. _Charles_ II. at _Winchester_ 191
-
-Two mitred priories, _Spalding_ } 95
- and _Thornholme_ }
-
-Q. _Eleanor_’s crosses 36, 37, 92, 114, 115, 117
-
-Royal oak 60
-
-The _British_ navy 194
-
-Sepulture of K. _Lucius_ 192
-
-———— _H._ I. 63
-
-———— _H._ IV. 124
-
-———— _Etheldred_ 190
-
-———— _Edgar_ 152
-
-———— _Arthur_ 152
-
-———— _Stephen_ 121
-
-———— _Rich._ III. 109
-
-———— _Edw._ II. 67
-
-———— _John_ 68
-
-———— _Rob. Brus_ 81
-
-_Stilton_ cheese 81
-
-_Wales_ 59
-
-The Washes 19
-
-Vicar of _Bedwin_ 65
-
-
- Etymology.
-
-_Ankam_ river 95
-
-_Bow_ 31
-
-Barrows, burrows, bowers 48, 97, 115
-
-_Biard_’s leap 15, 87
-
-_Crekelade_ 65
-
-_Churn_ 65
-
-_Cunnet_ 63
-
-_Catwater_ &c. 8
-
-_Elho_ 5
-
-_Ely_ 5
-
-_Frampton_ 24
-
-_Holland_ 5
-
-_Humber_ 96
-
-Hedg or hay in dancing 99
-
-_Helpringham_ 12
-
-_Hargate_ 16
-
-_Hurn_ 24, 30
-
-_Kesteven_ 85
-
-_Llys_ 66
-
-_Lichfield_ 66
-
-_Lade_, _lode_ 19, 65
-
-_Lindsey_ 85
-
-_Martinalia_ 139
-
-_Preshute_ 64
-
-_Quern_ 67
-
-Ruffian, romeing 15, 16
-
-_Sarn_ 66, 76, 110, 121
-
-_Syfer_ 102
-
-_Thong-castle_ 102
-
-Thong, wang 102
-
-Warths 162
-
-_Welsh_ words in _Lincolnshire_ 59
-
-_Witham_ 85
-
-Pageants 174
-
-
- Genealogies.
-
-Of _Wakes_ of _Brun_ 10
-
-_Moulton_ 23
-
-_Croun_ 25
-
-
- Seats.
-
-_Ambsbury_, lord _Charlton_ 137
-
-_Althorp_, earl of _Sunderland_ 38
-
-_Boughton_, duke of _Montague_ 36
-
-_Burghley_, earl of _Exeter_ 35
-
-_Belvoir_, duke of _Rutland_ 52
-
-_Chatsworth_, duke of _Devon_ 55
-
-_Cowdrey_, lord _Montacute_ 202
-
-_Eston_, earl of _Pomfret_ 38
-
-_Grimsthorp_, duke of _Ancaster_ 12
-
-_Hampton-court_, earl of _Coningsby_ 72
-
-_Marlborough_, earl of _Hertford_ 64
-
-_Ribsford_, lord _Herbert_ of _Cherbury_ 74
-
-_Wilton_, earl of _Pembroke_ 65, 185
-
-_Woodstock_, duke of _Marlborough_ 46
-
-_Warwick_, lord _Brooke_ 49
-
-
- Mechanics.
-
-Gotes and sluices, by whom invented 13
-
-Decoys described 18
-
-Salt making 57
-
-The form of oars 130
-
-Silk mill 54
-
-Stocking-loom 52
-
-Lace-loom 58
-
-
- Antediluvian.
-
-Trees 16, 59, 96
-
-Wood 37
-
-Bones 93
-
-Canoos 16, 121
-
-Nuts 147
-
-Fish 81, 156
-
-Plants 149
-
-Horns 16
-
-Shells 18, 43, 48, 93, 96, 107, 108,
- 113, 116, 135, 137, 148, 149, 151
-
-
- Art.
-
-Mr. _Ashe’s_ Garden 55
-
-_Enston_ water-works 48
-
-_Gothic_ architecture commended 67
-
-Whence their ill taste 124
-
-
- Mineralogy.
-
-Lead mines 54
-
-Salt-springs 57, 69
-
-Salt works 58
-
-Tobacco-pipe clay 37
-
-Coal mines 54, 63, 74, 149
-
-Fullers earth 115
-
-
- Geography.
-
-Memoirs towards a _British_ map of soils 27, 29, 47, 62,
- 64, 100, 115, 116, 120, 146,
- 157, 177, 179, 190, 192, 193,
- 195, 202, 204
-
-
- Natural.
-
-Composure of stones 18, 49, 55, 116, 159, 162, 192
-
-The earth an oblade sphæroid 5
-
-Proofs of the rotation of the globe 4, 29, 49, 67, 73, 77,
- 93, 96, 101, 108, 115, 120,
- 121, 130, 137, 138, 141, 146,
- 148, 151, 157, 159, 202
-
-The drumming well at _Oundle_ 36
-
-_Pool’s_ hole 57
-
-Another 149
-
-Remarkably large stone 137
-
-Flints in chalk 120, 141
-
-Echo 46, 172
-
-Beach of pebbles 124, 126, 127, 159
-
-Of the noise of the ocean 126
-
-Springs flowing with the tide 94
-
-Petrifying springs 37, 108, 112
-
-Springs swallowed up 131
-
-Floating island 57
-
-The philosophy of making drains 17
-
-———— of harbours 130
-
-———— of oars 130
-
-An account of the solar eclipse 179
-
-
- Medicinal.
-
-Chalybeat spring 9
-
-Ossification in a sheep 20
-
-Sheep without horns 17
-
-Prodigious memory 69
-
-_Buxton_ bath 56
-
-_Bath_ waters 146
-
-Case of a greyhound bitch 155
-
-_Bronchocele endemic_ 54
-
-The symbol of medicine 148
-
-_Scribonius_, physician to _Claudius_ 148
-
-One aged 126 37
-
-Of the gout 157
-
-Richness of soil in old cities 41, 106
-
-West side of the island }
- most healthy } 59, 60, 74, 146
-
-Botany 16, 32, 44, 53, 57, 59, 73, 95,
- 110, 113, 117, 126, 128, 131,
- 137, 149, 151, 154, 159, 160,
- 189, 190, 203
-
-Extravagant bulk of plants 72
-
-_Celtic_ names of plants 190
-
-
- _Roman_ Roads.
-
- 57, 65, 69, 73, 76, 87, 96, 109, 120, 127, 137, 151, 156,
- 158, 162, 179, 184, 192, 195, 200, 202, 203
-
-Artifice of them 108, 141, 187
-
-Manner of paving 106, 110, 155
-
-_Hermen-street_ 5, 76, 81, 88, 202
-
-—— name 6
-
-—— the new 85, 93
-
-Old _Hermen-street_ 7
- by whom made 7, 84
-
-_Brigantian Hermen-street_ 92
-
-_Akeman-street_ 41, 43, 47
- name 43
-
-_Ricning-way_ 54, 61, 68, 69, 148
- name 54, 148
-
-_Icening street_ 63, 77, 79, 115, 160, 179, 182, 187
- name 161
- extent 161
-
-_Foss_ road 66, 87, 103, 145, 154, 155
- name 103
- extent 156
-
-_Watling-street_ 59, 61, 111, 119, 121, 127
- name 111
- directed to _Rome_ 111
-
-_Via Trinovantica_ 118, 177, 205
-
-Stone streets 122, 132, 204
-
-_Ravens-bank_ 15
-
-_Via Badonica_ 62, 63, 140
-
-_Brig-end_ causeway 15
-
-In _Holland_, _Lincolnshire_ 14
-
-
- _English_ Towns.
-
-_Ambsbury_ 137
-
-_Blandford_ 189
-
-_Boston_ 31
-
-_Buxton_ 56
-
-_Bewdley_ 74
-
-_Crowland_ 33
-
-_Chip. norton_ 48
-
-_Coventry_ 49
-
-_Connington_ 81
-
-_Colsterworth_ 85
-
-_Chard_ 156
-
-_Derby_ 54
-
-_Fereby_ 99
-
-_Feversham_ 121
-
-_Fleet_ 12
-
-_Frieston_ 25
-
-_Fotheringhay_ 35
-
-_Glassonbury_ 151
-
-_Gedney_ 12
-
-_Holbech_ 12
-
-_Hyth_ 131
-
-_Hereford_ 71
-
-_Islip_ 44
-
-_Kirkton_ 32
-
-_Lichfield_ 61, 66
-
-_Leominster_ 72
-
-_Ludlow_ 73
-
-_Moulton_ 22
-
-_Malvern_ 69
-
-_Newark_ 104
-
-_Nottingham_ 52
-
-_Oundle_ 36
-
-_Oxford_ 44
-
-_Petherton_ 156
-
-_Portsmouth_ 193
-
-_Rotherston_ 57
-
-_Reading_ 62
-
-_Somerton_ 154
-
-_Steeple-ashton_ 145
-
-_Southampton_ 192
-
-_Stukeley_ 80, 114
-
-_Stanford_ 35
-
-_Tamworth_ 61
-
-_Wight_ island 195
-
-_Wrexham_ 59
-
-
- _Roman_ Towns.
-
-_Ancaster_ 86
-
-_Brigcasterton_ 84
-
-_Brentford_ 205
-
-_Crekelade_ 65
-
-_Caster_ 101
-
-_Grantham_ 52
-
-_Hartford_ 77
-
-_Laurance Waltham_ 62
-
-_Northfleet_ 120
-
-_Newington_ 122
-
-_Royston_ 79
-
-_Sleaford_ 9
-
-_Stanfield_ 9
-
-_Stunsfield_ 47
-
-_Spittal_ on the street 94
-
-_Towcester_ 40
-
-_Wintringham_ 95
-
-
- _Roman_ cities.
-
-_Abontrus_ 96
-
-_Alauna_, Aldcester 40
-
-_Ad spinam_ 63
-
-_Ariconium_ 69
-
-_Agelocum_ 93
-
-_Aquis_ 96
-
-_Ad pontem_ 105
-
-_Alauna_, Wimborn 190
-
-_Arminis_ 191
-
-_Aquæ solis_ 146
-
-_Andaoreon_ 179
-
-_Brigæ_ 184
-
-_Bolnelaunium_ 190
-
-_Benavona_ 114
-
-_Benonis_ 110
-
-_Branonium_ 68
-
-_Bonium_ 59
-
-_Branavis_ 48
-
-_Banovallum_ 30
-
-_Condate_ 57
-
-_Cunetio_ 63
-
-_Corinium_ 66
-
-_Camboritum_ 78
-
-_Causennis_ 85
-
-_Crocolana_ 103
-
-_Caleva Atrebatum_ 202
-
-_Colomeæ_ 150
-
-_Derventio_ 54
-
-_Deva_ 59
-
-_Durocinonte_ 80
-
-_Durobrivis_ 82
-
-_Durocobrivis_ 116
-
-_Durobrovis_ 120
-
-_Durolenum_ 121
-
-_Durovernum_ 122
-
-_Dubris_ 127
-
-_Durnovaria_ 161
-
-_Eltabona_ 37
-
-_Etocetum_ 61
-
-_Garionenum_ 152
-
-_Glevum_ 67
-
-_Isca Dumnoniorum_ 156
-
-_Ischalis_ 154
-
-_Ibernium_ 189
-
-_Leucomagus_ 64
-
-_Lindum_ 88
-
-_Lactorodum_ 114
-
-_Londinium_ 119
-
-_Lapis Tituli_ 131
-
-_Lemanis_ 132
-
-_Londinis_ 160
-
-_Moridunum_ 159
-
-_Moriconium_ 190
-
-_Mida_ 202
-
-_Mantantonis_ 201, 202
-
-_Magiovinium_ 115
-
-_Margidunum_ 106
-
-_Mancunium_ 58
-
-_Noviomagus_ 119
-
-_Præsidium_ 49
-
-_Pennocrucium_ 61
-
-_Portus magnus_ 193
-
-_Punctuobice_ 144
-
-_Pontes_ 205
-
-_Rutupiæ_ 124
-
-_Regnum_ 190
-
-_Ratæ_ 108
-
-_Salinis_ 69
-
-_Salinæ_ 78
-
-_Sorbiodunum_ 182
-
-_Suellaniacis_ 118
-
-_Tamese_ 43
-
-_Tripontium_ 112
-
-_Trausantum_ 193
-
-_Vindoma_ 177
-
-_Verlucio_ 142
-
-_Vagniacis_ 120
-
-_Verolanium_ 116
-
-_Vernometum_ 108
-
-_Venta Belgarum_ 191
-
-_Vindogladia_ 188
-
-_Vainona_ 28
-
-_Ypocessa_ 69
-
-
- Roman Forts.
-
-_Burgh_ 16, 29
-
-_Boston_ 16
-
-_Spalding_ 14
-
-_Wisbech_ 14, 16
-
-_Brancaster_ 16
-
-_Richborough_ 125
-
-_Farnborough_ 204
-
-Many more 8
-
-
- Roman Camps.
-
-_Arbury hill_ 114
-
-_Audleyn_ 79
-
-_Bury hill_ 43
-
-_Bury hill_ 179
-
-_Burrough hill_ 113
-
-_Barbury_ 140
-
-_Badbury_ 140
-
-_Badbury_ 140
-
-_Badbury_ 189
-
-_Castledikes_ 114
-
-_Cheselbury_ 135
-
-_Cheselbury_ 139
-
-_Chloridunum_ 137
-
-_Dinder-hill_ 70
-
-_Gildsborough_ 38
-
-_Hexton_ 77
-
-_Honington_ 87
-
-_Hamden hill_ 156
-
-_Honey ditches_ 159
-
-By _Kingsclere_ 179
-
-_Maiden castle_ 162
-
-_Martinshall_ 139
-
-_Oldbury_ 141
-
-_Poundbury_ 162
-
-_Ring hill_ 202
-
-_St. Roc’s hill_ 70
-
-_Sutton walls_ 79
-
-_Vespasian’s camp_ 138
-
-_Wodbury_ 189
-
-_Yarborough_ 101
-
-_Yarnbury_ 137
-
-
- Roman remains.
-
-_Old Sea-dike_ 13
-
-The _Cardike_ 7
-
-Gate at _Lincoln_ 89
-
-At _Canterbury_ 13, 122
-
-_Mintwall_, at _Lincoln_ 89
-
-At _Exeter_ 157, 158
-
-_Jewrywall, Leicester_ 109
-
-At _Ariconium_ 70
-
-At _Rochester_ 120
-
-_Temples_ 66, 79, 146
-
-Manner of _Roman_ walls 89, 104, 117, 120, 122, 125,
- 129, 132, 161, 165, 177
-
-_Lolham_ bridges 7
-
-_Pharos_ at _Dover_ 129
-
-Their mortar 89, 101
-
-Proportion of bricks 70, 117
-
-Imbanking of _Holland_ 12
-
-Piles of oak 105, 109
-
-Amphitheatres 125, 163, 164, 178
-
-_Julian_’s bower 31, 95
-
-The meaning 97
-
-_Chichester_ inscription 196
-
-_Lapis milliaris_ 14, 87, 94, 179
-
-_Lares_ 42, 66, 118, 145
-
-_Thyrsus_ 31
-
-Antiquities in _Holland_ 12, 13
-
-At _Rauceby_ 12
-
-_Wells_ 54, 83
-
-_Hypocausts_ 59, 70, 123
-
-Coins found 9, 13, 40, 42, 48, 52, 54, 59, 60, 62,
- 66, 70, 78, 80, 83, 84, 85, 86, 91, 94,
- 95, 101, 104, 107, 112, 114, 116, 139,
- 141, 142, 145, 149, 150, 154, 156, 158,
- 175, 177, 182, 188, 202, 205
-
-_Mosaics_ 47, 66, 70, 81, 83, 84, 105, 107, 109,
- 117, 155, 158, 162, 202
-
-_Cæsar’s_ landing place 127
-
-_Julia Domna_’s head 157
-
-_Arundel_ Collection _Preface_, 38, 45, 84
-
-_Runway_ 141
-
-_Rumsey_ 191
-
-_Ramsgate cliff_ 124
-
-_Ravensbank_ 15
-
- VII. } { 203
-_Antoninus_’s Iter XIII. } corrected { 143
- XIV. } { 144
- XV. } { 204
-
-Inscriptions 67, 91, 148, 169
-
-
- Celtic Antiquities.
-
-_Tumuli_ 5, 19, 29, 30, 38, 43, 74, 106, 107,
- 113, 115, 118, 127, 131, 135, 156, 160,
- 162, 165, 179, 184, 188, 189, 191, 202
-
-Instruments dug up 12, 57, 58, 59, 91
-
-_Oppida_ 53, 77, 78, 124, 135, 138, 182, 191
-
-_Cursus_ 109
-
-Temples 48, 100, 136, 140, 149
-
-_Grimesditch_ 47, 179
-
-_Flightditch_ 79
-
-_Brentditch_ 79
-
-Boundary of the _Belgic_ kingdom I. 189
- II. 187
- III. 138
-_Wansdike_ IV. 64, 142, 145
-
-The _Albionites_ 189
-
-These _Celtic_ works ancienter than the _Roman_ 141, 142, 188
-
-
- British Camps.
-
-_Aukbury_ 138
-
-_Credon hill_ 70
-
-_Bushill_ 77
-
-By East _Hamstead_ 177
-
-_Harbury banks_ 78
-
-_Maiden bower_ 115
-
-_Wilbury_ 77
-
-_Warmleighton_ 49
-
-_Tadmerton_ 49
-
-_Burbich_ 139
-
-_Mentaris Æstuarium_ 5
-
-_Cavata_ 85
-
-_Victius_ 88
-
-_Bibroci_ 62, 204
-
-_Atrebates_ 202
-
-_Nadre_ 135
-
-_Antona_ 193, 201
-
-_Belgæ_ 135
-
-_Dobuni_ 140, 197
-
-
- Religious Houses.
-
-_Vaudy_ 12
-
-_Sempringham_ 12
-
-_Skirbec_ 25
-
-_Frieston_ 25
-
-_Hagnaby_ 29
-
-_Crowland_ 32
-
-_Northampton_ 37
-
-_Bicester_ 43
-
-_Tame_ 44
-
-_Osney_ 45
-
-_Ruleigh_ 45
-
-_Godstow_ 46
-
-_Chipping Norton_ 48
-
-_Dale_ 53
-
-_Chester_ 59
-
-_Reading_ 62
-
-_Marlborough_ 63
-
-_Hereford_ 71
-
-_Leominster_ 72
-
-_Ludlow_ 74
-
-_Ramsey_ 81
-
-_Nocton_ 88
-
-_Kyme_ 88
-
-_Barlings_ 88
-
-_Bardney_ 88
-
-_Tupholme_ 88
-
-_Stickswold_ 88
-
-_Kirksted_ 88
-
-_Revesby_ 88
-
-_Risby_ 95
-
-_Gokewell_ 95
-
-_Thornton_ 100
-
-_Leicester_ 109
-
-_Sopwell_ 117
-
-_Feversham_ 121
-
-_Glassenbury_ 151
-
-_Cowic_ 158
-
-_Exeter_ 158
-
-_Wimburn_ 190
-
-
-
-
- FOOTNOTES:
-
-[1] The late John Ives, Jun. Esq; of Great Yarmouth, F. R. & A. S. who
- was possessed of these Plates, kindly lent that of Sir Henry Spelman
- for this Edition: the other was re-engraved before the Editor knew in
- whose possession they were.
-
-[2] Cum perpetui ferè & asperrimi montes sint versus occasum.—Baxteri
- Glossarium, voce _Otodini_.
-
-[3] At Hall, by Inspruck, salt-rocks, says Mr. Addison in his Italian
- Travels.
-
-[4] Cæsar calls Arminius a German general, whose proper name was
- _Harman_, or _Herman_, which signifies in that language the General
- of an Army.
-
-[5] The 6th of August, 1733, I went to meet Mr. Roger Gale coming from
- Peterborough. I staid at the Roman road, on that high hill, they have
- lately afresh plowed up some of the heath. It is surprizing to see
- how thick the fossil shells lay just under the surface, turned to
- stone; cockles, muscles, bivalves, whilks, and many more. I measured
- the adventitious turf grown over the Roman road: at a breach, it is
- almost six inches.
-
-[6] Lolham and Torphall, two royal manors belonging to Margaret
- countess of Richmond, who lived at Colliweston, a great old house at
- Lolham, which has been moted about. At Torphall the foundation of an
- antient tower forty foot square.
-
- Mr. Samuel Parker gave me, 1735, a silver Antoninus found by the
- Cardike on the back of Peterborough minster: the reverse, COS. III.
- DES. IIII. Many Roman coins found in digging in the ruins of the
- minster.
-
- At Moreton upon the Cardike, much Roman coin found.
-
-[7] _Cardike_ is British: _Cæirs_ is _palus_
-
-[8] Oslac, ambassador from Athelwolf, king of the West Saxons, anno
- 851, to Bertulf, king of Mercia, witness to a charter of Bertulf’s
- to Croyland abbey, Ingulf, p. 490. This was done at a parliament
- held at Kingsbury, a manor of the kings of Mercia, near Verolanum,
- and near where Offa had built the monastery to St Alban. I suppose
- Oslac, often mentioned in charters about 966, in Ingulf and others,
- to be Oslac, in the time of king Edgar, partner with earl Osul in the
- government of Northumberland, by king Edred constituted. His hand
- is at king Edred’s charter to Croyland, anno 948; to that of king
- Edgar, in 966; and to that of king Edgar to Peterborough, 970. Roger
- de Hoveden, p. 243. Oslac, butler to Athelwolf, was a Goth by origin,
- says Rog. de Hoveden, descended from Stuf and Withgar, two earls
- and brothers, who received the Isle of Wight from their uncle, king
- Cerdie, and Cinvic his son, their cousin.
-
-[9] Ralf, or Radinus Scalre, son to Goda, sister to king Edward: he is
- buried at Peterborough. Leofric, lord of Brun, was cousin to him.
- Earl Rodulf was son to Goda. William Malmsbury, p. 45. _b._ Earl Rolf
- was one of king Edward’s admirals against earl Godwin.
-
-[10] Morcar had these manors following, in the time of Domesday book:
- Colstewrde (Colsterworth) Basingheham, Shillington, Cherchebi
- (Kirkby) Chime (Kime) Bodebi, Wellingoure, Castre, Cotes, Barewe,
- Stroustone, Nort Stoches, Carletune, Bredesthorp, Wes-Bitham,
- Bortone, Brune, and Stapleford.
-
- Bodebi belonged of right to Crowland.
-
-[11] Morchar, or Macher, as William Malmsbury calls him, son of Elgar,
- or Algar, p. 46. _b._ was made earl of Northumberland; Tostin, son
- of Earl Godwin, losing it for his severity: and at the end of king
- Edward’s life, Tostin coming out of Flanders to invade the coasts
- of Northumberland in a piratical manner, was repelled by the forces
- of Morcar, and his brother Edwin. Tostin goes into Scotland, there
- meets Harold Harfag, the Norwegian, with three hundred ships upon an
- invasion: they agree to join forces, land in Northumberland, surprise
- the two brothers overjoyed at their late victory, and shut them up in
- York city till king Harold relieved them.
-
- Tostin, son of earl Godwin, was earl of Northumberland, and turned
- out, by instigation of his brother, at the end of Edward the
- Confessor’s life, and Morchar made earl in his stead. Morcar, and
- his elder brother Edwin, lived there very lovingly together, and
- when Harold the king was slain by William the Conqueror, offered
- themselves to the people, who might chuse one of them for their king.
- Harold and they were cousins; and they were at London at the time of
- the battle of Hastings: but William the Conqueror’s fortune prevailed
- both in getting the battle, and in getting the kingdom. Afterwards
- they disturbed the Conqueror by little inroads and vexations, and
- were sometimes taken prisoners; yet he pardoned them, and married
- them to his relations. At length they were slain perfidiously by
- their own men, and the king was much grieved at their death.
-
-[12] Hereward married Turfrida in Flanders.
-
-[13] The Duke of Ancaster, 1726, showed me a large brass Hadrian, but
- defaced, dug up in his garden, near the _tumulus_ at the end: he says
- more coins have been found about the stone pits in the park. That
- _tumulus_ perhaps was the burial-place of Grime, who denominated the
- place Grimsthorp, or Grime’s farm, probably some great Saxon, or
- Dane. I observe there are a few more _tumuli_ upon hills hereabouts,
- as one on the heath by Corby. I think the country hereabouts
- extremely fine and delightful: an excellent kind of stone is dug
- up in Grimsthorp park; and here and there a vein of good marble of
- a darkish colour: the blueish marble lies uppermost in a bed of
- about four foot; then a bed of twenty foot thick, of an excellent
- whitish stone, with reddish veins where they can cut blocks of any
- dimensions. Anno 1731, in digging in the court yard, they found an
- old brass seal, a coat of arms, two bars ermine; the epigraphe, as
- well as I could make it out, thus:
-
- SEEL. DES. OBLIG[AT symbol]CIONS. DE. RCE.
-
-[14] Later, about 1701 or 1702.
-
-[15] At Grantford, by March, 1732, several Roman urns found.
-
-[16] Holbech seems to have been _Holbergh_, as Wisbech _Wousbergh_.
-
-[17] Anno 1727, at Walpole, by the side of Wisbech river, abundance of
- Roman aqueducts were dug up, and Roman bricks, &c. and Mr. Colburn,
- minister there, sent me an aqueduct.
-
-[18] Wisbech is called _Wiseberch_, i. e. burgh, in king Wulfhere’s
- charter to Peterburgh. Mr. Peck’s Ant. Stanf. p. 21. Many Roman
- aqueducts dug up at Wisbech castle, when they built the present
- structure, as Mr. Beaupre Bell tells me; such as were found at
- Walpole, whereof I have one. William the Conqueror built a castle
- upon the Roman work.
-
-[19] No less than eight canoos were found in draining Martin mere. Dr.
- Leigh’s _Lancaster_. A moss-deer’s skeleton found fourteen foot under
- ground in the fens by the river Witham, Lincolnshire. I saw part of
- a moss-deer’s horn at the Society in Peterborough, found in the fens
- there.
-
-[20] The bed wherein Margaret lay, has since been removed to a
- farm-house by the fen-side, called Wrigbolt, where I have seen it.
- It is a very old-fashioned oak bed with panels of odd embossed work,
- like many we see in old country houses.
-
-[21] Pliny says they eat ducks in Britain as a great delicacy.
-
-[22] Radulfus de Holbech officium custod. resignat, & resumit locum
- focii ap. Æd. Petri Cant. 1349.
-
-[23] Algar the Count, called the Younger, with his two stewards,
- Wibert and Leofric, who gave names to these three towns, Algarkirk,
- Wiberton, Leverton, with other warriors, obtained a great victory
- over the Danes, anno 870. (Chron. Joan. Abb. S. Petri de Burgo, ed.
- a Spark, p 15. from Ingulf) but were slain the next day. 9 Ed. I.
- Ranulf de Rye obtained of the king a licence for a market every week,
- on the Monday, at his manor of Gosberchurch, and free warren there,
- as at his lands at Swinflete, Quadavering, Donington, Iwardby, and
- Housthorp.
-
-[24] Thoroton’s Hist. of Nott. gives part of this Pedigree, p. 174.
-
-[25] That monument in the church-yard was probably that of St.
- Botulphus, who was buried in this town, and famous for miracles
- before and after death.
-
-[26] The old church, built after the Danish devastation in 870, was of
- Turketil’s raising, who died 975. The new part of Crowland abbey was
- built in 1114.
-
-[27] The names of Croyland bells are mentioned by Ingulf, p. 505. _b_.
- The first was made by Turketil, _Guthlac_ the greatest: the five
- others were made by his successor, abbot Egelric; _Bartholomew_,
- _Bettelin_, _Turketyl_, _Tatwin_, _Pega_ and _Bega_.
-
-[28] The abbot of Croyland’s chair is at Mr. Dove’s seat at Upton by
- Peterborough, a descendant of bishop Dove’s: upon it, +BENEDICITE
- FONTES DN̄O+. I suppose the abbot’s name was _Fountain_.
-
-[29] St. Guthlake’s hermitage ruins pulled down about 1720.
-
-[30] The triangular bridge of Croyland is mentioned in the time of king
- Edred, anno 948. St. Guthlake’s cross, Plate XI. was set up by abbot
- Thurketil a little before that time.—Ingulf, p. 497. _b._
-
-[31] Of these crosses thus Walsingham, Hist. Angl. anno 1291. Dura
- (rex) finibus Scotiæ, &c.
-
-[32] Grantham and Stamford were two stages. Mr. Howgrave says there was
- a queen’s cross at Stanford; and the like is affirmed of Grantham,
- and that it stood in the open place in the London road: and I saw a
- stone, carved with foliage work, said to be part of it; and I believe
- it, seeming of that sort of work: if so, then Newark and Leicester
- must be left out, and they travelled with the queen’s corpse by way
- of Oundle to Geddington from Stanford, I suppose the present London
- road from Stanford being unpassable, or not having at that time royal
- seats, manors, or abbeys, by the way, sufficient to entertain the
- cavalcade. Mr. Peck, in his Stanford Antiquities, asserts Grantham
- and Stanford two of the stages, and where crosses were erected, no
- doubt, that at Grantham flood in the open London road before my
- neighbour Hacket’s house, called Peter-church hill; and the people
- have some memory of it. Mr. Peck puts in Woburn between Dunstable
- and St. Alban’s; upon what authority I know not.—Geddington was a
- manor of the king’s, V. Regist. Hon. Richmond, p. 280.—Camden in his
- Remains, p. 208, who doubtless had seen them, inserts Grantham and
- Stanford, V. p. 116.
-
-[33] At Naseby, round the font an inscription, ΝΙΨΟΝ
-
-[34] The Rev. Mr. Bertie of Uffington gave me 1735, several Roman coins
- found in this city; a very fair silver Hadrian, +IMP. CÆSAR TRAIAN
- HADRIANVS AVG.+ reverse, a sitting figure. +PM TRP COS. III.+
-
-[35] Jan. 1718, between Broadwel and Stow in the Wold, Gloucestershire,
- a countryman digging a ditch to divide a pasture, found an urn of a
- green colour: at top it had foliage work; in it thirty pound weight
- of copper Roman coin, which he sold for six-pence per pound. About a
- dozen were sent to Dr. Mead, of Constans, Constantine, and Magnentius.
-
-[36] _Acha_, in Irish, is a dike, mound, or bank.
-
-[37] The countess of Warwick was abbess here. _Tiber._ B. XIII. 5.
- Bibl. Cotton. is her elegium.
-
-[38] Holinshed, in his Hist. Engl. p. 92. says a stone trough full of
- Roman coin was found at Grantham forty years before: he there gives
- an account of the golden helmet, &c. found at Harlaxton.
-
-[39] The castle was in the close by the river east of the church:
- people alive remember foundations of it being dug up. I saw this
- year, 1726, a large brass Antoninus coin, found near Slade mill, in
- possession of Mrs. Vincent. Some think the castle was at Captain
- Hacket’s house, and that it was John of Gaunt’s castle, who had a
- manor here: however, great foundations are at the place, and arches
- have been taken up by the Captain; whether belonging to that manor
- house, castle, or the adjoining St. Peter’s church, now demolished, I
- know not.
-
-[40] It is a mistake I was led into by the vulgar opinion of the people
- of Grantham: Mr. Stokes was master of the school in Sir Isaac’s time.
-
-[41] 1726, I saw the tomb-stone of this Robert new dug up, in a stable
- where was the priory chapel:
-
- ROBERT DE TODĒILE FVDEVR
-
- wrote in large letters with lead cast in them.
-
-[42] I have a brass Claudius, found in Grantham, reverse, +CERES
- AVGVSTA+, struck on occasion of that universal dearth mentioned by
- St. Luke. Josephus takes notice of it, Ant. Jud. III. 18.
-
-[43] It contains 26,586 principal wheels, any one of which may be
- stopped separately, and independent of the rest: one regulator
- governs the whole work. It works 73,728 yards of silk every time the
- water-wheel goes round, which is thrice in a minute; 318,504,960
- yards of silk in a day and night. A girl of eleven years old does the
- work of thirty-five persons. One chimney conveys warm air into every
- room.
-
-[44] Walter Laci gave to the canons of Lanthony the whole valley where
- the abbey was situate, viz. from Kenentesset and Askareswey, by the
- _Rudgewey_, to Antefin, and from Haterell, from the land of Sesil
- Fitzgilbert, by the _Ruggewey_, to the bounds of Talgarth.
-
-[45] An account of these shells in Phil. Trans. p. 427. V. II.
- Mr. collector Terry tells me they find here vast quantities of
- antediluvian fir-trees, and peat very deep in the earth: amongst it,
- a large hollow gold ring, an inch and a half diameter; and a broad
- thick coin of base gold, full of strange unknown characters on both
- sides, sold to a goldsmith there; probably an invaluable curiosity.
-
-[46] At Frilsham, a Roman villa by _ad Spinam_, a Roman altar dug up,
- dedicated to Jupiter, 1730, in the earl of Abingdon’s grounds.
-
-[47] At Froxfield, south of Ramesbury, upon the _via Trinobantica_, a
- Roman villa discovered anno 1724. under a wood two Mosaic pavements.
- Lord Winchelsea has the drawings of them. Many antiquities found here.
-
- Howhill near here.
-
-[48] _Lod_ and _Lud_, &c. is a general name for rivers. The river
- _Loddon_ runs into the Thames between Reading and Henley. _Loddon_,
- the name of a town upon a rivulet running into the Yare near
- Yarmouth, Norfolk. _Lutton_, in Holland, Lincolnshire, where all
- the drains of the country meet. _Ludlow_, and _Ludford_ near it,
- from the river. _Lidston_, in Devonshire, and _Lidford_, anciently a
- large town upon the river _Lid_, a branch of the Tamar. _Lidbury_,
- upon the river _Liden_, Herefordshire. River _Lid_, in Cumberland.
- _Lidesdale_, _Loder_, in Westmoreland. _Luda_ river and town
- (Louth) Lincolnshire. _Ludham_, upon a river in Norfolk. _Lug_, in
- Herefordshire, a river of note. _Loghor_, a river in Glamorganshire.
- Hence _Luguballia_, _Lugotitia_, _Ludgate_, &c.
-
-[49] Wm. of Malmsbury, p. 65 tells a story he had from this Walkerius.
-
-[50] _In longas orbem qui secuere vias._ +Ovid.+ Amor. II. 16.
-
-[51] Among the old Egyptians, Herodotus tells us, (_Euterpe_) one sort
- of soldiers was called _Hermotybiæ_; latui _arma_.
-
-[52] The Roman station between London and Hertford (I suppose they
- had one every ten miles, if conveniently it could be) was probably
- at Cheshunt, anciently _Cestrehunt_; and it is likely there was a
- fortification there. Wadesmill retains the name of _Vadum_.
-
- It is very easy to discern where the old Roman road becomes the
- present road northward, by the alteration of its direction, near a
- little rill between Wadesmill and Ware. Wadesmill was a Roman ford,
- _vadum_, _wath_; whence its name: and from hence the Roman road is
- the common one, or post road, to Chesterton, or _Durobrivæ_, upon the
- river Nen.
-
- K. Edward senior, in 909, the 9th year of his reign, built a castle
- there, says H. Hunt; where it is printed _Herefordiam_ instead
- of _Hertfordiam_. _Castrum non immensum, sed pulcherrimum, inter
- Beneficiam_ (the Bean) _& Mimera & Luge flumina, &c._
-
- Cestrehunt, Cheshunt, is _via ad castrum_. _Huynt_, _hynt_, is in
- Welsh a gang, or road, a by-road, short road.
-
-[53] Vast quantities of coins found at Gamlingay, as I am told by Mr.
- Peck.
-
-[54] June 11, 1729, Mr. Welby of Denton tells me, Gardiner, who keeps
- the Crown inn at _Camboritum_, lately found many Roman coins there,
- and sells them for four pence a piece.
-
-[55] Dr. Brady, in his History of England, p. 48. mentions this city.
- Hollingshed, p. 92. _b._ of his History of England, says a gate of it
- was standing in his time.
-
-[56] _Et_ camuris _hirtæ sub cornibus aures._ +Virg.+ G. III.
-
-[57] The chalk ends about two miles north of Baldoc and Royston.
-
-[58] The market-place at Royston is a large square area, seemingly of
- Roman design.
-
-[59] Probably Roisia, wife to Pagan de Beauchamp, Baron 3d of Bedford,
- who built the castle of Bedford about the time of the Conquest.
-
-[60] May 15, 1732, I rode between Huntingdon and Cambridge, and
- discovered evidently that it was a Roman road all the way, pointing
- strait from Godmanchester to Cambridge castle. When I told this to
- Mr. Roger Gale, then at Cotenham, he said, he had observed that Roman
- road which lies on Gogmagog hills to point likewise upon Cambridge
- castle; so that the ford at Cambridge river is originally Roman: and
- undoubtedly there was a Roman town at Cambridge, for the conveniency
- of passengers and armies between the _Iceni_ and the northern parts
- beyond Huntingdon. I apprehend Chesterton and Grantchester were
- Roman forts and repositories of corn from this country, to be sent
- to Peterborough, and so by the Cardike into the north: and from
- the bridge at Cambridge, Bridge street and St. Andrew’s street are
- continuations, in a very strait line and direction, of the Roman road.
-
- July, 1742, Mr. collector Collins showed me several Roman coins,
- curious and fair, both silver and large brass, found lately at
- Gormanchester; Hadrian, Antoninus, Severus.
-
-[61] The Saxon word _stiff_ seems to be the same with the Greek
- στιβαρος, from στιβειν, to stiffen, _durare_, _roborare_; στυφεω to
- stiffen, _cogere_, _constringere_: but which is the primitive, I
- shall not determine. There are many large _tumuli_, by the road-side,
- at Little and Great Stukeley: so one at the town-end of Stilton
- northwards, and another on the top of the next hill northward by the
- road.
-
-[62] Sir Robert Cotton bought the whole room from Foderinghay castle,
- wherein Mary queen of Scots was beheaded, and set it up here.
-
-[63] Durobrivis was at that Roman work by the river side in Chesterton
- parish. Allerton, hard by, was anciently wrote _Aldwalton_,
- _Aldwarkton_.
-
-[64] The Castle field was walled about: perhaps this was originally one
- of the forts upon the _Antona_, built by A. Plautius before the Roman
- road was made.
-
-[65] Castre is called a royal manor, Ingulf, p. 497.
-
- It seems likely to me that Kimbolton was the town where Boadicia
- lived; _Kiseni pant_, the Icenian valley; as she was making
- homewards, she was met by the Romans at Ravensden, or the Roman
- valley, where the battle was fought; and that they buried her at
- Reynold, where the circular antiquity is, by the road side between
- Bedford and St. Neot’s. It lies near the meadow, and seems to be a
- British place for celebration of sports.
-
-[66] Mr. Parker, supervisor of excise, gave me a silver _Domitian_
- found at Castor; reverse +DIANA+, as usual. I saw a good brass
- _Galba_ found there.
-
- I have a silver _Hadrian_ found at the true _Durobrivis_, Chesterton;
- reverse +COS. III.+
-
- Anno 1731 the people of Bernac dug up some urns, with coins in them,
- near the Roman road passing through that parish. Mr. Archdeacon
- Payn showed me a brass _Magnentius_: there were many urns, coins,
- a brass _fibula_, tweezers, &c. dug up. I suppose it was a family
- burying-place of the Roman villa at Walcot.
-
- Mr. Terry, collector, gave me a good brass _Vespasian_, reverse
- +AVGVSTI+, found at Uffington.
-
-[67] _Wansford_ is _Avonsford_.
-
-[68] Many Roman coins found at Wilsthorp, upon the old Hermen-street:
- it was a Roman station, being the same distance from _Durobrivis_ on
- the old street, as Brigcasterton on the new.
-
-[69] I have several brass coins, found in the fields by Ryhall, in
- the neighbourhood of Brigcasterton; particularly a large _Nero_, of
- Corinthian brass; reverse, +VICTORIA AVGVSTI+: another; reverse, a
- victory +S. C.+ a _Trajan_, of Corinthian brass; reverse, +CERES.
- S. C.+ _Maximian_, reverse, +GENIO POP. ROM.+ _Constantinus Aug._
- reverse, +PRINCIPI JUVENTUT.+ exergue PLN. percussa Londini Constans
- Felix temp. repar. Nerva. _Trajan_; reverse, +COS. IIII. P. P.+
- _Claud Gothicus_.
-
- Mr. Beaupre Bell gave me a fair _Sev. Pertinax_, middle brass, found
- in Tickencote lane.
-
- I saw a silver _denarius_ of Pompey, found in Castreton field, 1733,
- the first in second plate of Patin’s famil. Rom. Pompeia.
-
- I have a middle-sized brass coin of Nero, found at Brigcasterton, +S
- P Q R+ stamped on the neck. I saw a large _Severus Pertinax_, brass,
- found there, Mr. Foden’s. Dec. 7, 1731. Lord Ganesborough showed me a
- fair large brass _Divo Antonino_, reverse, the Antonine column, dug
- up in Exton church-yard.
-
- Pickworth church, to the right, was burnt down, together with the
- then populous town, by the rebels in Henry the Seventh’s time; and
- all now lies in ruins. At the same time Hornfield and Hardwick
- demolished. Pickworth steeple, a very fine spire, and seen all round
- the country, was taken down about A. D. 1728, to build a sorry
- bridge at Wakerley. I saw the lower part of the steeple anno 1731,
- when it was pulled down to build a bridge by Casterton. There was
- a pretty church and an ancient one at Ingthorp, now turned into a
- dwelling-house.
-
-[70] Sir Isaac was born at Wolsthorp, a hamlet of Colsterworth.
- Some part of the high dike remains perfect enough in the fields
- over-against Colsterworth.
-
-[71] A silver _Trajan_, found by the high dike in ditching near the
- Woodnolk in Little Paunton parish, was sent by Madam Eyre, of
- Eastwell, to Lady Oxford.
-
- Many Roman coins found at Strawston, in possession of my neighbour
- Andrew Hacket, esq. and vaults dug up there: it is near Paunton.
-
- William de Vesci gave the church of Ancaster to the nuns at Walton;
- to the knights Templars he gave the churches of Cathorp and
- Normanton; to the canons of Sempringham, and nuns of Ormsby, the
- hermitage at Spaldingholme.
-
-[72] The name of _Kesteven_ undoubtedly came from _Causennis_; but
- Brigcasterton is really out of that division: Paunton is in the
- midway of it. Many arched vaults under ground about Paunton Magna: in
- one of them some coiners lodged for some weeks.
-
-[73] Mrs. Woodward gave me a silver _Antoninus_ upon his consecration,
- found at Ancaster: she says, one morning she was there, a labourer
- brought home a dozen Roman coins just then found.
-
-[74] Roman coins are found at Thistleton, near Post Witham, and at
- Market Overton: two large _tumuli_ in a valley, near a division-dike,
- on that beautiful plain called Saltby heath.
-
- I saw a fine brass _Alexander_, Roman; reverse, +PROVIDENTIA+, a
- Genius with a _cornucopia_ and ear of corn.
-
- A mile off Stretton, between Stamford and Grantham, between Stretton
- and Market Overton, is a place called the Holmes, where they find
- vast quantities of Roman coins. Mr. Parker, supervisor, gave me
- several, of the low empire: after a shower of rain, on the ploughed
- ground, they find them plentifully. No doubt but this was a Roman
- town. I viewed it with Mr. Baron Clark, of Scotland, May 30, 1733:
- it is a villa, or shepherd’s town, upon a delightful plain: there is
- an old well, which is new scoured, and the foundation of a wall that
- inclosed a kind of a court: it is near Thistleton.
-
- Mr. William Annis gave me a brass _Magnentius_, found at Honington;
- reverse +FELICITAS REIPUELICÆ+.
-
-[75] A Roman Mosaic pavement found in the fields above Denton, February
- 1727–8, of which I sent an account to the Royal Society.
-
-[76] I saw in possession of Mr. Terry of Lincoln, found at Ledenham, a
- Corinthian brass coin obliterated, with three holes bored in it.
-
- Over the parson’s gate of Ledenham an inscription of the famous John
- Dee, minister here.
-
- [Illustration]
-
-[77] Ninnius says, Vortimer the British prince was buried here.
-
-[78] The castle of Lincoln was made by the Saxon kings, repaired by
- William the Conqueror.
-
-[79] Captain Pownal gave me a brass _Fausta_, wife of Constantine,
- found in a barrow near Lincoln, +SPES+.
-
- Mr. S. Buck gave me a Crispus Nob. C. brass, found in the rubbish of
- a house, reverse, +BEATA TRANQUILLITAS P L C.+ struck at Lincoln.
-
- Captain Pownal told me they found coins, scatteringly, as they dug up
- a Roman _tumulus_ near Lincoln, anno 1727.
-
- Sept. 2, 1731, I accompanied Mr. Roger Gale, in his journey to
- Yorkshire, as far as Lincoln, (Dr. Knight of Bluntsham with us) just
- before they had dug up the foundation of the Roman east gate toward
- Banovallum: the stones exceeding large, cramped with iron. Lord
- Burlington was present.
-
- This summer they found two Roman tombs by the quarries on the same
- Banovallum road; four great stones set together like a coffin, and
- one on the top: there were in it the bones of a man, with urns,
- lacrymatories, and coins.
-
-[80] More brass _armillæ_ in the _tumuli_.
-
-[81] All the fields about Allington, Fosston, &c. are covered over with
- petrified shells of a particular kind of oyster; they call them there
- crow-stones.
-
-[82] So _Sedetani_, a people of Spain, in Silius are called _Hedetani_;
- by Ptolemy, _Segesta_, a town in Sicily, _Egesta_, &c.
-
-[83] I saw a coin found here, brass, of Claudius; reverse, a soldier
- with a shield throwing the pile.
-
-[84] The countess of Warwick, whose maiden name was Wray, gave the
- manor to Magdalen college, Cambridge.
-
-[85] ——_Partes ubi se via findit in ambas._
-
-[86] June 7. 1732, Mr. John Ash showed me some Roman coins found at
- Ludford by Market Raisin, where he says they find very many: it is
- fourteen miles from Lincoln, and probably a Roman station upon the
- Fossway going toward the sea: the coins were of Constantius Cl.
- Gothicus, &c.
-
-[87] In Bede it is called _Tunnaceaster_, from Tunna the owner, a
- Saxon, IIII. 22.
-
-[88] The _Thane_ was a _count_, or minister of the king. Tong castle,
- in Shropshire, upon the head of the Severn.
-
-[89] Near Stanford, in old writings, the Hermen street is sometimes
- called the Foss.
-
-[90] Vide Ogilby’s Survey, [p. 207].
-
-[91] Godfrid abbot of Peterborough built a new roof and chapel at
- Collingham, which cost him 57l. 15s. 1d. says Walter Whittlesey, [p.
- 162]. this was about 1316. July 10, 1729, the reverend Mr. Welby
- of Scaleford gave me a coin or two, Roman, found near the Foss at
- Crocolana; one remarkably corroded, seemingly of Corinthian brass.
-
-[92] Turketil Hoche gave it, says Hugo Candidus.
-
- I saw two Roman coins found at Crocolana, 28. Apr. 1728. There is a
- long old wall.
-
-[93] April 28, 1728, I saw at Newark two Roman coins, lately found at
- Brough: they say there is a long old wall there.
-
-[94] Mr. Twells of Newark sent me four Roman coins dug up in the fields
- by Newark; a Magnentius, pretty fair; reverse, P. Antoninus Pius; two
- large Trajans, but defaced.
-
- I guess Newark was built in the later Roman times, for its
- commodiousness upon the Trent, and exhausted the neighbouring Brough:
- both being destroyed by the plundering Danes, perhaps were repaired
- in after-ages, and called Newark.
-
- My cousin, Edmund Dickenson esq. gave me a large brass Verus found in
- Newark fields, 1729, obliterated; an Hadrian found there.
-
- Oct. 7. 1731, I satisfied myself that this was the long-sought-for
- episcopal see called _Sidnacester_.
-
- I saw a gold Gratian, reverse, +VICTORIA AUG. G.+ found at Thoroton;
- in my brother Collins’s possession. The rev. Mr. Guy, of Long
- Benington, says they find Roman coins in the fields thereabouts.
-
-[95] Newark castle built by Alexander bishop of Lincoln.
-
-[96] April 17, 1730, I heard, in the neighbourhood, of Roman pavements
- dug up there, and coins. Burton, in his _Leicestershire_, speaks of
- antiquities found here.
-
- Upon the Foss-way hereabouts was found a large and fine medallion of
- Corinthian brass inclosed with wax: among other coins, the head of
- the emperor +M. ANTONINUS AUG. TRP. XXVII.+ reverse, the head of his
- son +COMMODUS CÆS. GERM. ANTONINI AUG. GERM. FIL.+ it is of that kind
- of medals called _contorniati_. I think it was found in an urn, with
- a coin or two more.
-
-[97] At this camp of _Vernometum_, as in divers others, the two
- _brachia_ advancing inwards of the gate, verge a little to the left:
- the design of it, as I apprehend, is to expose so much the more the
- right side of an enemy entering, who have their shields on their left.
-
-[98] A Roman pavement found, 1721, at Medburn cum Holt, near
- Harborough, Leicestershire.
-
-[99] Mr. Lee of Leicester informs me of a Roman urn, in his possession,
- found at High-cross; digging for a vault in the church, for the late
- lord Denbigh, they found a dozen of them covered with Roman bricks.
-
-[100] _Cincl squit, natio Guidelia_, the Irish nation: so they now call
- themselves.
-
-[101] Near Bensford bridge and Lutterworth, a vast quantity of silver
- Roman coins found anno 1725, now in possession of Mr. Walter
- Reynolds, steward to lord Denbygh of Lutterworth. I saw many of
- Trajan, Hadrian, Nerva, Vespasian, two large brass Trajans. Feb. 9.
- 1726, I saw the following in silver.
-
- Vespasianus Aug. _reverse_, Judæa. _A prisoner under a
- trophy_
- ———————————————— pon. max. tr. p. cos. v. _A caduceus._
- Vesp. Aug. imp. Cæsar pontif. maxim. _A caduceus._
- Imp. Cæs. Vesp. Aug. Cen. pontif. max sedens cum hasta in dex.
- flore in læva
- Vespasianus Cæsar _a sow and three pigs._ imp. III.
- Imp. Cæs. Ner. Trajan optm. Aug. _rev._ p. m. tr. p. cos. S. p. q. r.
- Ger. &c. _A genius of plenty_
- Imp. Cæs. Nerva Trajan Aug. Germ. pont. max. tr. pot. cos. II. Genius
- sedens
- Imp. Cæs. Nerva Trajan Aug. Germ. p. m. tr. p. cos. IIII. p. f. _A genius
- of plenty_
- Imp. Cæs. Trajan p. m. tr. p. cos. II. justitia. Genius
- sedens
- Trajano Aug. Ger. Dac. S. p. q. r. opt. principi. _Genius of
- plenty._
- Imp. Trajano Aug. Ger. Dac. p. m. cos. v. p. p. s. p. q. r. opt. princ.
- tr. p. Genius cum pavone
- Trajano Aug. Ger. Dac. p. m. tr. p. S. p. q. r. optimo principi. Mars
- cos. II. p. p. gradivus
- Imp. Trajano Aug. Ger. Dac. p. m. S. p. q. r. optimo principi. Genius
- tr. p. cos. V. p. p. sacrificans
- Imp. Trajano Aug. Ger. Dac. p. m. S. p. q. r. optimo principi. Columna
- tr. p. cos. VI. p. p. Trajana
- 4
- +ANTXAICNETPAIANOCCEBTEPM+ ΔΗΜΕΣ IIIII
- 0 0
- Imp. Trajano Aug. Ger. Dac. p. m. S. p. q. r. optimo principi. Genius cum
- tr. p. cos. V. p. p. bilance
- Imp. Trajano Aug. Ger. Dac. p. m. S. p. q. r. optimo principi. Genius cum
- tr. p. cos. VI. p. p. puero
- Imp. Trajano Aug. Ger Dac. p. m. tr. cos. VI. p. p. s. p. q. r. opt pr. Vesta
- p. sed. cum victoriola
- Imp. Trajano Aug. Ger. Dac. p. m. cos. V. p. p. s. p. q. r. opt. pr.
- tr. p. Genius stans cum prora
- Imp. Cæsar Trajan Hadrianus Aug. p. m. tr. p. cos. III. Genius cum
- caduceo
- Imp. Cæsar Trajan Hadrianus Aug. p. m. tr. p. cos. III. _A female in the
- posture of imploring_
- Hadrianus Aug. cos. m. p. p. salus Aug. Hygeia
- Hadrianus Augustus cos. III. Genius armatus sedens
- Imp. Cæsar Trajan Hadrianus Aug. p. m. tr. p. cos. III. _a genius with
- two bustos in her hands_
- Hadrianus Aug. cos. III. p. p. Africa Genia Nili procumbens
- Imp. Cæsar Trajan Hadrianus Aug. p. m. tr. p. cos. III. Genius sedens
- sacrificans
- Imp. Cæsar Trajan Hadrianus Aug. p. m. tr. p. cos. Fortuna sedens cum
- prora
- Imp. Cæsar Trajan Hadrianus Aug. p. m. tr. p. cos. III. Genius nudus
- sacrificans
- Hadrianus Augustus cos. +III.+ Hercules sedens cum
- victoriola
- —————————————————— ——————————— Victoria sedens
- Imp. Cæsar Trajan Hadrianus Aug. p. m. tr. p. cos. III. Fortuna stans
- Hadrianus Aug. cos. III. p. p. moneta Aug. Genius cum bilance
- Imp. Cæsar Trajan Hadrianus Aug. p. m. tr. p. cos. III. salus. Hygeia
- sedens
- ——————————————————————————————————— ————————————— Genius nudus sacrificans
- Antoninus Augustus p. p. _reverse_, cos. pulvinar cum fulmine
- ælius Cæsar tr. pot. cos. II. Concord. victoria
- sedens
- Faustina Vesta pulvinar
- Sabina Augusta Concordia Aug. genia stans cum patera
-
- These being all of the higher empire, and many excellently well cut,
- indicate that they were hid early, and perhaps about this time, that
- the Watling-street was made: they were found in a hole in the fields
- between Loughborow and the Watling-street, with about a dozen more
- than here described.
-
- Wickliff lived at Lutterworth, his picture in the parsonage. Mr.
- Button of Kimcote, near here, a curious man. Wickliff’s pulpit still
- left. A petrifying spring at Lutterworth.
-
-[102] _Magus_ rather signifies originally a field, or plain, and where
- probably the old Britons had their religious ceremonies, sports,
- and races, &c. the barrows too hereabout indicate here has been an
- ancient British temple, and I suppose the name of _Long Meg and her
- daughters_, at the British temple in Cumberland, only the remains of
- the original name _Magus_.
-
-[103] In Speed’s History of England, p. 261. Maiden Bower by the
- sea-coast in Norfolk, where Hunstanton was built. This was
- undoubtedly a Roman camp there.
-
-[104] At the same time and place, the king, and Bertuald archbishop of
- Canterbury, held a council and enacted canons.
-
- K. Henry I. kept his court here, 1122. as Hen. Hunt says, p. 218.
- _b._
-
-[105] A brass Roman _lar_ dug up about Grosvenor square (in
- possession of Mr. Beaupre Bell) near where the Roman road ran, the
- Watling-street.
-
-[106] May place, west of Crayford, seems _Noviomagus_. Oct. 1722, many
- Roman coins found in an urn near Croydon.
-
-[107] Rochester was a very strong place, and the water went quite round
- it.
-
-[108] Bishop Gundulf died 1108.
-
-[109] The river Medvacus runs through Vicenza, a city in Italy, built
- by the Gauls. I suppose our present Britons, or Welsh, are Gauls, the
- same as Cæsar conquered; that the oldest Britons are the Irish, who
- are much of Phœnician original, and part of the shepherds banished
- Africa, and who came along with Hercules Ægyptus, Assis, Melcartus,
- who built Carteja or Cadiz, and civilized the Celtic nations,
- remembered by the Gauls under the name of Hercules Ogmius.
-
-[110] I find in this country, that the word _Chart_ generally imports
- some works of antiquity. Chartway from E. Sutton to Munchilsey.
-
-[111] In Stone church are many Roman bricks.
-
-[112] The name of Watling-street, as it passes through the city, is
- almost lost by the negligence of the inhabitants, who generally of
- late call it Beer-cart lane.
-
-[113] The ground east of Canterbury is sandy, and favourable for hops.
-
-[114] In this port landed St. Augustin, the apostle of our Saxon
- ancestors.
-
-[115] Vitruvius directs the gates of cities to be made oblique. This
- was called _Madan_ gate, from the figure of a _woman_ over it, as the
- vulgar fancy.
-
-[116] There are a great number of large barrows about Sandwich; one
- at Winsborough, with a tree upon it; so it is called by the vulgar,
- but the learned make it Wodnesborough: between that and Sandwich is
- another, called Marvil hill.
-
-[117] Among the sand-hills by Sandwich I found a curious plant, which
- I take to be the _satyrium abortivum_, or bird’s-nest of Gerard: it
- has a bulbous root of a red colour; the stem sometimes a foot long,
- whitish like young asparagus, and almost naked; a great spike of
- white flowers, of the cucullate sort, with a black _apex_: they are
- exceeding odoriferous. I found much _eryngo_ there, which smells
- pleasantly when broke; and on all the banks of the ditches hereabouts
- garden-fennel grows in great plenty.
-
- Sandwich is in a miserable, decayed condition, following apace the
- downfall of its mother _Rutupium_: it might easily be made the best
- harbour on this coast, by cutting a new channel for the river about
- a mile and half through the sand-hills south easterly; for the water
- of the river Stour would sufficiently scour it, did it run strait,
- and with that direction. All the walls and bulworks of the town are
- dismantled, the gates tumbling down; and a few cannon lie scattered
- here and there. This town likewise might be made very strong; for,
- besides the river Stour, another rivulet runs through it, that would
- keep the ditches always full.
-
-[118] At Hardres place, the seat of Sir William Hardres, lay king Henry
- VIII. when going upon his expedition at Boloign: he left his picture
- here, and an old dagger, very broad, and about as long as a Roman
- sword: the handle is of silver gilt and enamelled, with mottos on it.
- The old gates of this seat were the gates of Boloign, brought thence
- at that siege by Sir William’s ancestor, who accompanied the king.
-
-[119] By St. Margaret’s are many natural cavities in the chalk cliffs,
- and an admirable large spring arising from the beach with great force
- when the tide is out.
-
-[120] To Dover from Canterbury the Watling-street is still the common
- way: it is left intire over Barham downs, with a high ridge strait
- pointing to Canterbury cathedral tower: as soon as it enters the
- downs it traverses a group of Celtic barrows, then leaves a small
- camp of Cæsar’s: further on it has been basely inclosed through
- two fields, and levelled with ploughing: then it passes by a great
- single barrow, whereon stood the mill, which is now removed higher
- up: then it ascends the hill to a hedge corner, where are three
- barrows, a great one between two little ones, all inclosed with a
- double square intrenchment of no great bulk: I fancy them Roman,
- because parallel to, and close by, the Roman road: the great barrow
- has a cavity at top, and an entrance eastward; whether casually, or
- with design, I know not. At Lyddon the Watling-street falls into
- that noble valley of Dover, made of two huge ridges of chalk, which
- divide themselves into lesser valleys, dropping into the great one at
- regular distances, as the little leaves of plants meet at the main
- stem: this valley, when viewed from the end, looks like a landscape
- on scenes lessening, according to perspective, to Dover, between
- the two _Phari_ and the sea at the end, inclosed between them. The
- street slides along the northern declivity, crosses the rivulet which
- wanders through the midst of the valley at Buckland, so to Biggin
- gate, where is its termination, by the side of the old port, having
- now run from Chester about 250 miles. Many barrows on the sides of
- those hills.
-
-[121] Such a Roman _Pharos_ at Damiata in Egypt, the view of it in Le
- Brun, plate 70. letter A.
-
-[122] I suppose likewise that the sails of ships ought to be narrower
- at top, where they are fastened to the yard’s arm, broader at bottom,
- like a cloke; and so they are ordinarily made in some measure.
-
-[123] At Folkstone the famous Dr. Harvey was born, ob. 1657.
-
-[124] The seat of Ostenhanger, through the park whereof the
- Stone-street runs to Limne, was a noble building: they sold it lately
- for 1000 pounds to a mason, who pulled it all down. An inscription of
- the chapel there is now made a stone step in the house of Mr. Smith
- of Stanford; thus copied by Mr. Godfrey:
-
- IVIL. V. ET. XX A LINCARNATION NOSTRE CHRIST ET LE XII. ANNE DV
- TRES HAULT ET TRES SANT ET TRES EXCELLENT PRINCE NOSTRE
- ET ROY HĒR̄̅Y VIII A LE HONEVR DV DIEV ET DE LA GLORIEUSE
- VIERGE MARIE FVT FAICTE ET ACHEVEE CESTE CHAPELLE PAR MESSIRE EDOVARD
- POYNINGS CHEVALIER DE LA NOBLE ORDRE DV GARTIER ET CONTRE ROYLER DE
- LA MASON DV ROY CVY DIEV DDINT SA GRACE ET BONNE VIE ET LONGVE ET
- PARADIS A LA FIN AMEN.
-
-[125] Asclepiades says Boreas, a king of the Celts, planted an unknown
- tree on the _tumulus_ of his daughter _Cyparissa_; whence the name of
- it, and its funeral use. Trees planted on Protesilaus’s sepulchre,
- Pliny, XVI. 44. So an oak on Illus’s _tumulus_, ibid. so on the tomb
- of Amycus king of the Bebrycians, _ibid._
-
-[126] St. Martin’s day, in the Norway clogs, is marked with a goose;
- for on that day they always feasted with a roasted goose: they say
- St. Martin, being elected to a bishoprick, hid himself, but was
- discovered by that animal. We have transferred the ceremony to
- Michaelmas. Sumner’s glossary, voce ᵹe-beoꞃꞅciꞃe, mentions the _alæ_
- of the northern people, meaning such a religious ceremony as we have
- been speaking of: and, if one consults Skinner’s _Etymologicon_ for
- the derivation of our word _ale_, we may be apt to suspect it is most
- reasonable to refer it to this custom, from the incongruity of his.
-
-[127] This work on the outside of the gates is called _titulus_ by
- Hyginus: he orders it to be sixty foot distant from the gate. The
- word and thing, whether round or square, is analogous to our modern
- priest-cap, as called: perhaps it should be _tutulus_.
-
-[128] Captain Madox sent me some Roman coins; a Maximian pretty large,
- LON ; with an instrument of brass.
-
-[129] In Weekfield, much foundations of houses, coins, &c.
-
-[130] Divitiacus, king of the Gauls, had a great command in Britain, in
- _Belgium_, and seems to have given his name to the Devizes, upon his
- frontier.
-
- Wells remains of the _Belgæ_.
-
-[131] A most noble busto in brass found at the Bath, anno 1727. Mr.
- Gale says it is not easy to know whether it be a man’s or a woman’s:
- I suppose it is the Genius of the city, buried there for luck sake.
- Such another found in the middle of Paris, very deep, with a mural
- crown on; and such a one had ours, the holes being visible where it
- was fastened.
-
-[132] In the public papers, Jan. 1722–3, at Corton, Somersetshire, a
- small Roman urn full of coins, Valerian, Gallienus, Aurelian, in the
- hands of Mr. Tho. Nash, rector there.
-
-[133] Some have had a notion that Joseph of Arimathea was buried at
- Montague hill, not at Glasenbury; but if Joseph ever was in Britain,
- it is most likely he was buried really at Glasenbury: and probably
- it is Simon the Zealot, or Canaanite, one of our Saviour’s apostles,
- that is buried at Montague; the two stories being confounded, and
- perhaps two made of one: for that Simon preached in Britain, wrought
- miracles here, was martyred and buried in Britain, we have the
- express testimony, and very ancient, of Nicephorus, Dorotheus, the
- Greek Monologies, wherein he is said to be crucified and buried there.
-
-[134] A broad Roman sword found here, 1688. Here is a spring.
-
-[135] Alexander, at building Alexandria, marked the track of the walls
- with bread-corn.
-
-[136] Urbs primum in medio regionis maximè condatur, delecto in loco
- qui cæteras quoque opportunitates complectatur, quas & concipere &
- designare minimè difficile est; deinde in partes duodecim distributio
- fiat, ut Vestae prima Jovique atque Minervæ consecretur; & illa urbis
- pars Arx nuncupetur, & septo diligenter muniatur: & ex eo urbem &
- regionem in duodecim partes distribuant: vici præterea in 12 partes
- erunt distribuendi, sicuti & cæteræ civium facultates ut ex 12
- partium constitutione cursuum lustrationes commodius peragi possint:
- 12 quoque partes 12 diis erunt deinceps attribuendæ; & unaquæque
- pars, ex ejus dei nomine cui illa obtigerit, erit nuncupanda, ut
- tribus ipsa sit suo & tutelari deo cognominata; sed ut 12 urbis
- membra, sicuti in reliqua regione factum est, singulatim in duas
- habitationes fuerunt dividenda, quarum una circa medium sit, altera
- circa extremum; & habitationis quidem ordo & ratio hunc in modum
- conformetur.—All this Plato learnt from the Jewish œconomy.
-
-[137] It pleases me to inquire the names of these old things, however
- aukward. Quære, Whether it means the name of the person buried there,
- or the god worshipped there, _Baal_, _Belinus_; or that it signifies
- only an eminence, _bal_, _fal_?
-
-[138] _Opus tessellatum_ found in the castle.
-
-[139] Eubulus greeteth thee, and Pudens, and Linus, and Claudia, and
- all the brethren.—See Fuller’s Church History, and Usher.
-
-[140] Mr. Terry of Lincoln tells me, at Tangham near Farnham,
- innumerable Roman coins, urns, and antiquities, are dug up every
- where in hedge-rows: vast quantities of them, which he got, he
- gave to Oxford. This perhaps was the site of _Calleva_. Many
- pillars, pilasters, capitals, bases, marble tables, &c. dug up there
- continually; many in possession of George Woodroff, esq. late owner
- of the estate: he had many pecks of coins found there.
-
-[141] A large parcel of it, a quarter of a mile long, is still perfect
- to the east of the brook, where the powder mills are on Hounslow
- heath, where the common road goes southward to pass it.
-
-[142] The _via Trinovantica_.
-
-[143] November, 1731, a labourer dug up an urn full of silver Roman
- coin, at Turnham green, as repeated in the public prints.
-
-[144] Stanes was fenced round with a ditch.
-
-
- Transcriber’s Notes:
-
- - Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_).
- - Text enclosed by pluses is in small caps (+Small Caps+).
- - Text enclosed by asterisks is in blackletter font (*blackletter*).
- - A table of contents has been added.
- - Blank pages have been removed.
- - Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected.
- - There is no plate #56.
- - Errata from Vol. II. have been applied.
-
-*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ITINERARIUM CURIOSUM (CENTURIA
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-<p style='text-align:center; font-size:1.2em; font-weight:bold'>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Itinerarium Curiosum (Centuria I), by William Stukeley</p>
-<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
-most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
-of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online
-at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you
-are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the
-country where you are located before using this eBook.
-</div>
-
-<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: Itinerarium Curiosum (Centuria I)</p>
-<p style='display:block; margin-left:2em; text-indent:0; margin-top:0; margin-bottom:1em;'>or, An account of the antiquities, and remarkable curiosities in nature or art, observed in travels through Great Britain</p>
-<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: William Stukeley</p>
-<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: December 29, 2022 [eBook #69657]</p>
-<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</p>
- <p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; text-align:left'>Produced by: Tim Lindell, Robert Tonsing and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)</p>
-<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ITINERARIUM CURIOSUM (CENTURIA I) ***</div>
-
- <figure class="x-ebookmaker-drop">
- <img class="illowp75" src="images/cover.jpg" alt="">
- </figure>
-
- <div class="transnote mt5">
- <div class="large center"><b>Transcriber’s Notes:</b></div>
- <ul class="spaced">
- <li>A table of contents has been added.</li>
- <li>Blank pages have been removed.</li>
- <li>Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected.</li>
- <li>Font 'Old English Text MT' is recommended to view blackletter text.</li>
- <li>Some illustrations with internal text have "See transcription" links to the text at the end of the book.</li>
- <li>Family tree illustrations have "See transcription" links to tables with the transcribed text, in approximate arrangement.</li>
- <li>Errata from Vol. II. have been applied.</li>
- <li>There is no plate #56.</li>
- </ul>
- </div>
-
- <figure id="i_frontis1">
- <img class="illowp75" src="images/i_frontispiece_1.jpg" alt="Wm. Stukeley M.D.">
- </figure>
-
- <figure class="illowp75 mt5" id="i_frontis2">
- <img src="images/i_frontispiece_2.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"> <i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <figcaption class="smcap clear">Itinerarivm.&nbsp; &nbsp; Cvriosvm.<br>Centvria. i.</figcaption>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="chap">
- <div class="titlepage">
- <h1><span class="xxlarge"><span class="gesperrt">ITINERARIUM CURIOSUM</span>:</span><br>
- <span class="xsmall"><span class="gesperrt1">OR</span>,</span><br>
- <span class="small gesperrt">AN ACCOUNT OF THE</span><br>
- <span class="gesperrt">ANTIQUITIES</span>,<br>
- <span class="small gesperrt1">AND REMARKABLE</span><br>
- <span class="xxlarge gesperrt2">CURIOSITIES</span><br>
- <span class="small gesperrt1">IN</span><br>
- <span class="medium"><span class="gesperrt2">NATURE </span><span class="xsmall">OR</span><span class="gesperrt2"> ART</span>,</span><br>
- <span class="small">OBSERVED IN TRAVELS THROUGH</span><br>
- <span class="gesperrt">GREAT BRITAIN</span>.</h1>
-
- <div class="small mb5"><b>ILLUSTRATED WITH COPPER PLATES.</b></div>
-
- <hr class="wide">
- <div class="large mt2 mb2"><b><span class="gesperrt2">CENTURIA I</span>.</b></div>
- <hr class="wide">
-
- <div class="mt3 mb3 lh1"><b><span class="gesperrt2">THE SECOND EDITION</span>,<br>
- <span class="gesperrt1">WITH LARGE ADDITIONS</span>.</b></div>
-
- <hr class="wide">
- <div class="mt2 mb2"><b>By WILLIAM STUKELEY, M.D. F.R. &amp; A.S.</b></div>
- <hr class="wide">
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza" lang="la">
- <div class="i0"><i>O Patria, O Divûm domus, Albion, inclyta bello!</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>O quam te memorem, quantum juvat usque morari</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Mirarique tuæ spectacula plurima terræ!</i></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <hr class="wide thick mt1">
- <hr class="wide mt0">
-
- <div class="lh1 mt2">
- <span class="gesperrt2">LONDON</span>:<br>
- Printed for Messrs. <span class="smcap">Baker</span> and <span class="smcap">Leigh</span>,
- in York-Street, Covent-Garden.<br>
- <span class="small">M.DCC.LXXVI.</span></div>
- </div>
-
- <hr class="wide thick mt10">
- <hr class="wide mt0">
- <h2 class="xxxlarge">Table of Contents.</h2>
- <div class="center-container">
- <ul class="mt0" style="text-align: left;">
- <li><a href="#PREFACE">PREFACE</a></li>
- <li><a href="#ITINERARIUM_DOMESTICUM">ITER DOMESTICUM. I.</a></li>
- <li><a href="#ITER_OXONIENSE">ITER OXONIENSE. II.</a></li>
- <li><a href="#ITER_CIMBRICUM">ITER CIMBRICUM. III.</a></li>
- <li><a href="#ITER_SABRINIUM">ITER SABRINIUM. IV.</a></li>
- <li><a href="#ITER_ROMANUM">ITER ROMANUM. V.</a></li>
- <li><a href="#ITER_DUMNONIENSE">ITER DUMNONIENSE. VI.</a></li>
- <li><a href="#ITER_SEPTIMUM_ANTONINI_AUG">ITER SEPTIMUM ANTONINI AUG. VII.</a></li>
- <li><a href="#PLATES">THE PLATES</a></li>
- <li><a href="#INDEX">INDEX</a></li>
- </ul>
- </div>
-
- <hr class="wide thick mt10">
- <hr class="wide mt0">
- <h2 class="xxxlarge" id="PREFACE"><span class="gesperrt3">PREFACE</span>.</h2>
-
- <p class="drop-cap">THE intent of this Treatise is to oblige the curious in the Antiquities
- of Britain: it is an account of places and things from inspection, not
- compiled from others’ labours, or travels in one’s study. I own it is a
- work crude and hasty, like the notes of a traveller that stays not long
- in a place; and such it was in reality. Many matters I threw in only
- as hints for further scrutiny, and memorandums for myself or others:
- above all, I avoided prejudice, never carrying any author along with
- me, but taking things in the natural order and manner they presented
- themselves: and if my sentiments of Roman stations, and other matters,
- happen not to coincide with what has been wrote before me; it was
- not that I differ from them, but things did not so appear to me. The
- prints, beside their use in illustrating the discourses, are ranged in
- such a manner as to become an index of inquiries for those that travel,
- or for a British Antiquary. I shall probably continue this method at
- reasonable intervals. The whole is to invite Gentlemen and others in
- the country, to make researches of this nature, and to acquaint the
- world with them: they may be assured, that whatever accounts of this
- sort they please to communicate to me, they shall be applied to proper
- use, and all due honour paid to the names of those that favour me with
- a correspondence so much to the glory and benefit of our country, which
- is my sole aim therein.</p>
-
- <p>It is evident how proper engravings are to preserve the memory of
- things, and how much better an idea they convey to the mind than
- written descriptions, which often not at all, oftener not sufficiently,
- explain them: beside, they present us with the pleasure of observing
- the various changes in the face of nature, of countries, and the
- like, through the current of time and vicissitude of things. These
- embellishments are the chief <em>desiderata</em> of the excellent Mr.
- Camden’s <cite>Britannia</cite>, and other writers of this sort, whose pens
- were not so ready to deliver their sentiments in lines as letters: and
- how hard it is for common artificers to draw from mere description,
- or to express well what they understand not, is obvious from our
- engravings in all sciences. I am sensible enough, that large allowances
- must be made for my own performances in this kind, and some for the
- artificers parts therein, who, for want of more practice in such works,
- cannot equal others abroad. I know not whether it will be an excuse, or
- a fault, if I should plead the expedition I used in the drawing part;
- but I may urge, that a private person, and a moderate fortune, may want
- many useful assistants and conveniences for that purpose. It is enough
- for me to point them out; to show things that are fine in themselves,
- and want little art to render them more agreeable, or that deserve to
- be better done; or any way to contribute toward retrieving the noble
- monuments of our ancestors; in which case only, we are behind other
- the learned nations in Europe. It is not that we have a less fund of
- curiosities than they, were the description of them attempted by an
- abler hand, and more adequate experience.</p>
-
- <p>Two or three of the plates are inserted only as heads, being not
- referred to in the discourse, as Tab. VIII. the ground-plot of the
- ruins of Whitehall. I myself never saw the palace, but was pleased
- that I chanced to take this draught of its ruinous ichnography, but
- the very week before totally destroyed. Thus much I thought owing to
- the venerable memory of that name, which is ever the word at sea with
- British ships, and which makes the whole world tremble. Tab. X. is an
- ancient seal of the bishops of Norwich.<a id="FNanchor_1" href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> This plate the learned and
- curious Mr. le Neve, Norroy king at arms, lent me out of his good will
- to promote the work: the seal is remarkable for having letters upon the
- edge, represented in the empty ringlet; the manner of it is like our
- milled money; but how it was performed in wax, is not easy to say. Tab.
- XV. was likewise lent me by Mr. Norroy abovesaid. I design always, in
- these collections of mine, to insert one plate in a hundred, of some
- person’s <em>effigies</em> that has deserved well of the antiquities of
- Britain: it is but a just piece of gratitude to their
- memory. Tab. XL. (the Greek view at Athens) I took from an original
- drawing in Mr. Talman’s collection. I have some more of that sort:
- though they relate not to Britain, I do not fear the reader will be
- displeased with me on that account. How much rather ought we to lament
- the scarcity of such! What noble monuments of Greece are sunk into
- eternal oblivion, through want of Drawing in travellers that have been
- there in great numbers, or for want of encouragement to those that
- are able! With what regret do I mention that most beautiful temple of
- Minerva in the citadel of Athens, without dispute the finest building
- upon the globe, <i>anno</i> 1694! that year it was casually blown up
- with gunpowder, and not a drawing of it preserved.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp75 mb4" id="i_iv_1">
- <div class="plateno"><i>15</i></div>
- <img src="images/i_iv_1.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attr"><i>Guil: Faithorne Sculp:</i></div>
- <figcaption class="clear"><i>HENRICUS SPELMANNUS.<br>Eques Auratus.</i></figcaption>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp75 mb4" id="i_iv_2">
- <div class="plateno"><i>8</i></div>
- <div class="smcap"><b>Palaces.</b></div>
- <img src="images/i_iv_2.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>JV<sup>der</sup> Gucht Sculp</i></div>
- <figcaption><i>The Groundplot of the Ruins of Whitehall June 14. 1718.</i></figcaption>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_iv_3">
- <div class="plateno"><i>10</i></div>
- <img src="images/i_iv_3.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attr"><i>I. Harris sculp<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <figcaption class=""><i>Ex autographo penes Maiorem et Com̃unitat.<br>Villæ Lenne Regis in Com Norff.</i></figcaption>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_v_1">
- <div class="plateno"><i>40</i></div>
- <div class="caption"><i>A View at Athens.</i></div>
- <img src="images/i_v_1.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>I. Harris sculp</i></div>
- <div class="small"><i>Ex collectionᵉ Jo<span class="bt">his</span> Talman Ar.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_v_2">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>101·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <div class="small clear"><span class="col50"><i><b>A View of the Temple of the Winds at Athens.</b></i></span>
- <span class="col50"><i><b>A Lyon Cast in brass standing by y<sup>e</sup> Port of Athens.</b></i></span></div>
- <img src="images/i_v_2.jpg" alt="">
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp75 mb4" id="i_v_3">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>102. 2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <div><i><b>The Temple of Minerva at Syracuse.</b></i></div>
- <img src="images/i_v_3a.jpg" alt="">
- <hr class="full">
- <div><i><b>The Ichnography of the same Temple.</b></i></div>
- <img src="images/i_v_3b.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_v_4">
- <div class="plateno"><i>100</i></div>
- <div><b><i>Insignis Synodus quinq, Planetarum Anno 1722, Mense Decembrifacta ad ho:7 .matutinas.<br>
- Gradus Sigittary.</i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_v_4.jpg" alt="">
- <figcaption><i>Celeberrimo Hallejo Astronomo Regio tabulam reddit L. M. W<sup>s</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span> Stukeley.</i></figcaption>
- </figure>
-
- <p>The last plate, of the great conjunction of the five planets, I added
- as an <em>æra</em> of my book. This memorable appearance, because it
- affected not the vulgar like a solar eclipse, was almost neglected
- by the learned. I had a mind to do it justice by printing the type
- of it from the diagram sent me by the great Dr. Halley. For my part,
- I congratulate myself for living in an age fruitful of these grand
- phænomena of the celestial bodies, and am pleased, that beside the
- total eclipse 1715, we have in the space of two years this great
- conjunction, a transit of Mercury across the sun, a comet, the last
- eclipse of the sun, and in March next another great conjunction.</p>
-
- <p>The numerous plates I have given the reader, of ground-plots and
- prospects of Roman cities, I thought contributed much towards fixing
- their site, and preserving their memory: they may be useful to curious
- inhabitants, in marking the places where antiquities are found from
- time to time, and in other respects. There are some few errors of the
- press escaped me, notwithstanding all my care; but none, I think, of
- any consequence. I have taken care to make the Index as instructing
- as I could. The title of <em>Roman roads</em> belongs to such as are
- anonymous, or not commonly taken notice of: that of <em>Roman coins</em>
- points to such places as are not Roman towns, or particularly
- described. <em>Etymology</em> includes only such words as are scattered
- casually in the work, or matters that are not comprehended under any
- other head; and so of the rest.</p>
-
- <p>One general observation I have made within the short space of time
- my travels were limited to, that husbandry, grazing, cultivation of
- waste lands, all sorts of trades and manufactures, towns and cities,
- are hugely improved; and especially the multitude of inhabitants is
- increased to a high proportion: the reason of it is not difficult to be
- guessed at.</p>
-
- <p>What I shall next trouble the reader withall, will be my intended work,
- of the history of the ancient Celts, particularly the first inhabitants
- of Great Britain, which for the most part is now finished. By what I
- can judge at present, it will consist of four books in folio. I. The
- history of the origin and passage of the Celts from Asia into the west
- of Europe, particularly into Britain; of their manners, language, &amp;c.
- II. Of the religion, deities, priests, temples, and sacred rites, of
- the Celts. III. Of the great Celtic temple at Abury in Wiltshire, and
- others of that sort. IV. Of the celebrated Stonehenge. There will be
- above 300 copper plates of a folio size, many of which are already
- engraven; and many will be of much larger dimensions. Upon account,
- therefore, of the vast expence attending this work, I shall print no
- more than are subscribed for; the money to be paid to me only. Thus
- much I thought fit to advertise the friendly reader.</p>
-
- <p class="right mb3"><i>Ormond-street, 26 Dec. 1724.</i></p>
-
- <hr class="full thick">
- <hr class="full mb2">
- <p class="center xlarge bold"><span class="gesperrt">GULIELMO STUKELEY, <i>M. D.</i></span><br>
- <i>Amicus Amico</i>, &amp;c.</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza italics" lang="la">
- <div class="i0 drop-cap">LUbrica Romani dum Tu monumenta pererras</div>
- <div class="i1">Nominis, &amp; tacito saecula lapsa pede:</div>
- <div class="i0">Docte opifex, variis seu vim sermonibus addas,</div>
- <div class="i2">Seu placet artifici pagina picta manu;</div>
- <div class="i0">Quanta vetustatis summae miracula promis,</div>
- <div class="i2">Obrutaque indigno moenia celsa situ!</div>
- <div class="i0">Vindice Te, fossas video procedere longas.</div>
- <div class="i2">Per loca constratum devia ducit iter.</div>
- <div class="i0">Nunc via sublimi conscendit vertice montes,</div>
- <div class="i2">Flumina declivis nunc per aperta ruit.</div>
- <div class="i0">Castra quot immenso retegis constructa labore?</div>
- <div class="i2">Et tua non sinit ars oppida posse mori.</div>
- <div class="i0">Hic mira antiquae pendent compagine portae,</div>
- <div class="i2">Hic tremulo fulget lumine grata pharos.</div>
- <div class="i0">Celsior exsurgit chartis Romana potestas</div>
- <div class="i2">Clara tuis; ultro est fassa ruina decus.</div>
- <div class="i0">Ecce iterum ingenti pandunt curvamine sedes,</div>
- <div class="i2">Et plausu resonant amphitheatra novo.</div>
- <div class="i0">Roma triumphato jamdudum languida mundo</div>
- <div class="i2">Nequicquam invictam se superesse dolet.</div>
- <div class="i0">Nec te dira cohors morborum sola tremiscit,</div>
- <div class="i2">Ast tempus medicas sentit inerme manus.</div>
- <div class="i0">Quantum Roma tibi, quantum Brittannia debet.</div>
- <div class="i2">O ingens patriae, Romulidumque decus!</div>
- <div class="i0">Accipe Phoebea merito dignissime lauro,</div>
- <div class="i2">Sint, quæ das aliis, saecula sera tibi.</div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="right">I. S.</p>
-
- <hr class="full mt3 mb2">
- <div class="center xlarge bold"><span class="gesperrt">GULIELMO STUKELEY, <i>M. D.</i></span> &amp;c.</div>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza italics" lang="la">
- <div class="i0 drop-cap">NEC sola est medicina Tui, sed Apolline dignam</div>
- <div class="i1">Artem omnem recolis, mente, manuque potens.</div>
- <div class="i0">Non modo restituis senio morbisque gravatos,</div>
- <div class="i2">Ad vitam reddis sæcla sepulta diu.</div>
- <div class="i0">Te Lindensis ager gestit celebrare nepotem,</div>
- <div class="i2">Quæque dedit, patriæ lumina grate refers.</div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="right"><span class="gesperrt">GEOR. LYNN</span>, Interior. Templ. Soc.</p>
-
- <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_viii">viii</span></p>
-
- <hr class="full mt3 mb2">
- <p class="hang large bold" lang="la">In Itinerarium Curiosum amici sui charissima viri doctissimi &amp; Cl.
- Domini <span class="smcap">Gulielmi Stukeleii</span> M. D. CML. SRS. &amp; Antiquar.
- Secretar.</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza italics" lang="la">
- <div class="i0 drop-cap">O&nbsp; Jane bifrons! Temporis inclyte</div>
- <div class="i1">Vindex remoti, de superis videns</div>
- <div class="i8">Post terga solus, nunc adesto et</div>
- <div class="i8">Egregium tueare amicum</div>
- <div class="i0">Opusque. templi janua sit tui</div>
- <div class="i0">Serata, dum ex bis nostra quietior</div>
- <div class="i4">Discat juventus, quid avorum</div>
- <div class="i4">Indomitæ potuere dextræ.</div>
- <div class="i0">Quicquid Britannus ferre recusans</div>
- <div class="i0">Servile collo Romulidum jugum,</div>
- <div class="i4">Terra sua contentus egit,</div>
- <div class="i4">Artibus ingenitis beatus.</div>
- <div class="i0">Quicquid Quirites gentibus asperis</div>
- <div class="i0">Cultu renidens tradere providi:</div>
- <div class="i4">Victoriam, Musasque &amp; artes,</div>
- <div class="i4">Arma simul rapiente dextra.</div>
- <div class="i0">Nec vestra omittit pagina Saxonem</div>
- <div class="i0">Sicâ timendum, relligionibus</div>
- <div class="i4">Valde revinctum: bellicosis</div>
- <div class="i4">Horribilemve Dacum carinis.</div>
- <div class="i0">Nec tu recondis facta silentio</div>
- <div class="i0">Præclara Normanni immemor inclyti;</div>
- <div class="i4">Quorum omnium est imbutus Anglus</div>
- <div class="i4">Sanguine, moribus, &amp; vigore.</div>
- <div class="i0">Quæ mira doctus condidit artifex</div>
- <div class="i0">Excelsa prisci mœnia seculi,</div>
- <div class="i4">Quæ strata, pontes, templa, castra,</div>
- <div class="i4">Amphitheatra, asarota, turres!</div>
- <div class="i0">Plaudit sibi jam magna Britannia</div>
- <div class="i0">Antiqua splendet gloria denuo.</div>
- <div class="i4">Chartis resurgit Stivecleji</div>
- <div class="i4">Celsa canens iterum triumphos.</div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="right"><span style="margin-right: 1.1em;">MAUR. JOHNSON, J. C.</span><br>
- Interioris Templi Soc. <span class="allsmcap">MDCCXXIV.</span></p>
-
- <hr class="full mt3 mb2">
- <div class="center large bold">In <span class="gesperrt"><span class="smcap">Stukelejanas</span></span> Antiquitates.</div>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza italics" lang="la">
- <div class="i0 drop-cap">DEperditorum restitutor Temporum</div>
- <div class="i1">Et veritatis in tenebris abditæ</div>
- <div class="i0">Scrutator eruditus, arte quâ mirâ valet!</div>
- <div class="i0">Retegit vetustum quicquid obscuro sinu</div>
- <div class="i0">Abscondit Ævum. Tempus, hic aciem tuæ</div>
- <div class="i0">Falcis retundit invidam: frustra omnia</div>
- <div class="i0">Comples ruinis. jam tuæ pereunt minæ.</div>
- <div class="i0">Ipsæ perire nam ruinæ nesciunt. <span class="fright">M. M.</span></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_ix">ix</span></p>
-
- <hr class="full mt3 mb2">
- <div class="center large bold">Ad <span class="smcap"><span class="gesperrt">Itinerarii Curiosi </span></span>auctorem.</div>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry" lang="la">
- <div class="stanza italics">
- <div class="i0 drop-cap">QUantum Roma tibi, et Romana Britannia debet,</div>
- <div class="i1">Ingenui Vates, Vir celebrande, canant.</div>
- <div class="i0">Me nec Roma modos suaves, nec Celtica tellus</div>
- <div class="i2">Argutæ docuit stringere fila lyræ.</div>
- <div class="i0">Muneris hoc igitur vani cur hybrida tentem</div>
- <div class="i2">Normannus, Cimber, Saxo, Britannus ego?</div>
- <div class="i0">Musa negat, Natura negat, sed suggerit unus</div>
- <div class="i2">Qualiacunque potest carmina noster Amor.</div>
- </div>
- <div class="stanza italics">
- <div class="i0">Gratulor inceptum tibi nobile, gratulor illis,</div>
- <div class="i2">Inter quos nomen glorior esse meum:</div>
- <div class="i0">Qui patriæ priscas arteis, loca, nomina, &amp; ipsas</div>
- <div class="i2">Relliquias sancta relligione colunt;</div>
- <div class="i0">Quo brevis ostendis conclusus limite campi,</div>
- <div class="i2">Limite quam nullo clauditur ingenium.</div>
- <div class="i0">Quòque tuos sensus permulcet amore <span class="smcap">Vetustas</span>,</div>
- <div class="i2">Qui nullos casus, ardua nulla fugis.</div>
- <div class="i0">Per salebras asp’ras, per tortas ambitiones,</div>
- <div class="i2">Et cæcos calles, improbe, carpis <span class="smcap">Iter</span>.</div>
- <div class="i0">Stagna lacúsque inter, limosáque pascua Lindi,</div>
- <div class="i2">Romanæ explorans avia strata viæ.</div>
- <div class="i0">Hic ubi sorte dolens, pelagi tot jugera rector</div>
- <div class="i2">Æquoris herbosi non sua, rapta tenet.</div>
- <div class="i0">Plura quidem tenuit, sed jussit Jupiter acres</div>
- <div class="i2">Martigenas patrui vim cohibere sui.</div>
- <div class="i0">Haud secus ac jussi faciunt, partémque receptam</div>
- <div class="i2">Terreni, ut par est, æquoris esse jubent.</div>
- <div class="i0">Cætera raptori quæ nunc manet Ennosigæo,</div>
- <div class="i2">Si quibus est armis, est repetenda tuis.</div>
- <div class="i0">Qui terræ pelagíque adeo declivia monstras,</div>
- <div class="i2">Et quò præcipites Nereus urget equos;</div>
- <div class="i0">Tanta mathematicis se tollit gloria vestra</div>
- <div class="i2">Artibus; at numeris grandior illa meis.</div>
- <div class="i0">Me rapit addictum veterum admiratio rerum,</div>
- <div class="i2">Plenáque deliciis pagina quæque suis.</div>
- <div class="i0">Tu monumenta pius, monumentis adstruis ipsis,</div>
- <div class="i2">Perdita quæ fuerant, posse perire vetans.</div>
- <div class="i0">Quid referam quantum tibi debet Classicus auctor,</div>
- <div class="i2">Qui priscas urbes, castràque prisca doces?</div>
- <div class="i0">Mercator siccis quærens adamantas in oris,</div>
- <div class="i2">Non tam conductam versat avarus humum,</div>
- <div class="i0">Quam tu cum nummos, urnas, &amp; cætera signa</div>
- <div class="i2">Antiquæ effodias indubitata notæ.</div>
- <div class="i0">Nomina, quæ fuerant olim, Romana reducis,</div>
- <div class="i2">Perdita restituens, obsolefacta novans.</div>
- <div class="i0">Nec te, antiquarum tam mira peritia vocum est,</div>
- <div class="i2">Fallunt Teutonici, barbaricique soni.</div>
- <div class="i0">Historiam quantum decoras, si dicere vellem,</div>
- <div class="i2">Historiam videar scribere, non literas.</div>
- <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_x">x</span></p>
- </div>
- <div class="stanza italics">
- <div class="i0">Tu das præteritis veluti præsentibus uti,</div>
- <div class="i2">Et redeunt scriptis secula lapsa tuis.</div>
- <div class="i0">Detrahis ancipiti Jano mirabile monstrum,</div>
- <div class="i2">Et recta facie cernere cuncta jubes.</div>
- <div class="i0">Sed dum commendo tua, carmine digna Maronis.</div>
- <div class="i2">Ingenii culpâ detero, scripta, mei.</div>
- <div class="i0">Macte tua virtute esto, patriamque quotannis</div>
- <div class="i2">Quo pede cæpisti demereare. Vale.</div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <div class="right">R. AINSWORTH.</div>
-
- <hr class="full mt3 mb2">
- <div class="center large bold">To Dr. <span class="smcap">Stukeley</span>, upon his <i>Itinerarium Curiosum</i>.</div>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0 drop-cap">HAIL, Baxter lives! in each descriptive page</div>
- <div class="i1">Are seen the labours of the Roman age:</div>
- <div class="i0">What ere the sons of Rome or Albion knew,</div>
- <div class="i0">We here discern at one compendious view.</div>
- <div class="i0">Thus taught we pass the Caledonian flood,</div>
- <div class="i0">Or fertile plains that smile from Cimbric blood:</div>
- <div class="i0">Where Vaga’s streams glide murmuring near the tomb,<span class="rbracep">}</span></div>
- <div class="i0">(Darksome recess) where mighty Chiefs of Rome</div>
- <div class="i0">Have slumber’d ages in its silent gloom:</div>
- <div class="i0">Where airy lamps the distant sailor guide,</div>
- <div class="i0">Or where the labour’d arch deceives the tide:</div>
- <div class="i0">Where Geta kept the Belgic youth in awe,</div>
- <div class="i0">Or where Papinian gave the Roman law.</div>
- <div class="i0">Pleas’d I behold Sabrina’s silver stream,</div>
- <div class="i0">Or hear the murmurs of the doubtful Teme.</div>
- <div class="i0">With you, methinks, from Cred’nil I survey</div>
- <div class="i0">Th’ important conflict of the furious day:</div>
- <div class="i0">See, see! Frontinus fierce in armour shine,</div>
- <div class="i0">Where the war burns upon the vale of Eigne.</div>
- <div class="i0">Here on the plains of Aricon we learn</div>
- <div class="i0">Life’s various period from the peaceful urn.</div>
- <div class="i0">Yon hoary Druids pray celestial aid,</div>
- <div class="i0">Where sacred oaks diffuse a solemn shade;</div>
- <div class="i0">Each branch aspiring to the blest abode</div>
- <div class="i0">Lifts up the vows of Britain to the God.</div>
- <div class="i0">Go on, my friend! the curious theme pursue,<span class="rbracep">}</span></div>
- <div class="i0">The mystic scenes of early time review,</div>
- <div class="i0">And tell Britannia, Baxter lives in you.</div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="right"><span style="margin-right: 2.4em;">JAMES HILL, J. C.</span><br>
- <i class="small">Middle-Temple, London, Dec. 1. 1724.</i></p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp90 mb4" id="i_001">
- <img src="images/i_001.jpg" alt="">
- <div><a href="#t_001">See transcription</a></div>
- </figure>
-
-<div class="snmargin">
-
- <div class="chapter">
- <span class="pagenum" id="Page_1">1</span>
- <hr class="full mb0">
- <hr class="full thick" style="margin-top: 0.2%;">
- <hr class="full mt0">
- <div class="center xxlarge mt5"><b>ITINERARIUM CURIOSUM, &amp;c.</b></div>
- <h2 class="nobreak xlarge" id="ITINERARIUM_DOMESTICUM"><span class="gesperrt2">ITER DOMESTICUM</span>.&nbsp; &nbsp; I.</h2>
- </div>
-
- <hr class="full">
- <div class="center"><i lang="la">I, fuge, sed poteras tutior esse domi.</i>
- <span class="smcap" style="float: right;">Mart.</span></div>
- <hr class="full">
-
- <div class="center bold mt3 lh1"><i>To</i>&nbsp; <span class="gesperrt1">MAURICE JOHNSON</span>,&nbsp; Jun.&nbsp; <i>Esq.</i><br>
- <i>Barrister at Law of the</i> Inner-Temple.</div>
-
- <p class="drop-cap">THE amity that long subsisted between our families giving birth to an
- early acquaintance, a certain sameness of disposition, particularly a
- love to antient learning, advanced our friendship into that confidence,
- which induces me to prefix your name to this little summary of what has
- occurred to me worth mentioning in our native country, <span class="gesperrt">HOLLAND</span>,
- in Lincolnshire; but chiefly intended to provoke you to pursue a full
- history thereof, who have so large a fund of valuable papers and
- collections relating thereto, and every qualification necessary for
- the work. That these memoirs of mine are so short, is because scarce
- more time than that of childhood I there spent, and when I but began to
- have an inclination for such enquiries: that the rest which follow are
- grown to such a bulk as to become the present volume, is owing to my
- residence at London. Great as are the advantages of this capital, for
- opportunities of study, or for the best conversation in the world, yet
- I should think a confinement to it insupportable, and cry out with the
- poet,</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0"><i lang="la">Invideo vobis agros, formosaque prata.</i> <span class="fright">Virg.</span></div>
- </div>
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0">I envy you your fields and pastures fair.</div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">which engages me to make an excursion now and then into the country:
- and this is properly taking a review of pure nature; for life here
- may be called only artificial, especially when fixed down to it;
- like the gaudy entries upon a theatre, where a pompous character is
- supported for a little while, and then makes an exit soon forgotten.
- My ancestors, both paternal and maternal, having lived, from times
- immemorial, in or upon the edges of our marshy level, perhaps gave me
- that melancholic disposition, which renders the bustlings of an active
- and showy life disagreeable. The fair allurements of the business of
- a profession, which have been in my road, cannot induce me wholly to
- forsake the sweet recesses of contemplation, that real life, that
- tranquillity of mind, only to be<span class="pagenum" id="Page_2">2</span> met with in proper solitude; where I
- might make the most of the pittance of time allotted by Fate, and if
- possible doubly over enjoy its fleeting space. I own a man is born for
- his country and his friends, and that he ought to serve them in his
- best capacity; yet he confessedly claims a share in himself: and that,
- in my opinion, is enjoying one’s self; not, as the vulgar think, in
- heaping up immoderate riches, titles of honour, or in empty, irrational
- pleasures, but in storing the mind with the valuable treasures of the
- knowledge of divine and human things. And this may in a very proper
- sense be called the study of Antiquities.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><i>Of the study of</i> <span class="smcap">Antiquities</span>.</div>
-
- <p>I need not make an apology to you for that which some people of
- terrestrial minds think to be a meagre and useless matter; for
- truly what is this study, but searching into the fountain-head of
- all learning and truth? Some antient philosophers have thought that
- knowledge is only reminiscence. If we extend this notion no further
- than as to what has been said and done before us, we shall not be
- mistaken in asserting that the past ages bore men of as good parts as
- we: enquiry into their thoughts and actions is learning; and happy for
- us if we can improve upon them, and find out things they did not know,
- by help of their own clue. All things upon this voluble globe are but
- a succession, like the stream of a river: the higher you go, the purer
- the fluid, less tainted with corruptions of prejudice or craft, with
- the mud and soil of ignorance. Here are the things themselves to study
- upon; not words only, wherein too much of learning has consisted. If
- we examine into the antiquities of nations that had no writing among
- them, here are their monuments: these we are to explore, to strike
- out their latent meaning; and the more we reason upon them, the more
- reason shall we find to admire the vast size of the gigantic minds
- of our predecessors, the great and simple majesty of their works,
- and wherein mainly lies the beauty and the excellence of matters of
- antiquity. But more especially it is not without a happy omen, that
- the moderns have exerted themselves in earnest, to rake up every dust
- of past times, moved by the evident advantages therefrom accruing, in
- the understanding their invaluable writings, which have escaped the
- common shipwreck of time. It is from this method we must obtain an
- accurate intelligence of those principles of learning and foundations
- of all science: it is from them we advance our minds immediately to the
- state of manhood, and without them the world 5000 years old would but
- begin to think like a child. Nothing more illustrates this than looking
- into the comments that were wrote upon them 200 years ago, voluminous
- enough, but barbarous, poor, and impertinent, when compared to the
- solid performances of learned men since, whose heads were enriched with
- an exact search into the customs, manners and monuments of the writers.
- Hence it is, that history, geography, mathematics, philosophy, the
- learned professions, law, divinity, our own faculty, and the muses in
- general, flourish like a fresh garden richly watered and cultivated,
- weeded from rubbish of logomachy and barren mushrooms, gay with
- thriving and beautiful plants of true erudition, inoculated upon the
- stocks of the antients.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><i>Of</i> <span class="smcap">Britain</span>.</div>
-
- <p>If ruminating upon antiquities at home be commendable, travelling at
- home for that purpose can want no defence; it is still coming nearer
- the lucid springs of truth. The satisfaction of viewing realities has
- led infinite numbers of its admirers through the labours and dangers
- of strange countries, through oceans, immoderate heats and colds, over
- rugged mountains, barren sands and deserts, savage inhabitants, and a
- million of perils; and the world is filled with accounts of them. We
- export yearly our own<span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">3</span> treasures into foreign parts, by the genteel and
- fashionable <em>tours</em> of France and Italy, and import ship-loads
- of books relating to their antiquities and history (it is well if we
- bring back nothing worse) whilst our own country lies like a neglected
- province. Like untoward children, we look back with contempt upon our
- own mother. The antient Albion, the valiant Britain, the renowned
- England, big with all the blessings of indulgent nature, fruitful
- in strengths of genius, in the great, the wise, the magnanimous,
- the learned and the fair, is postponed to all nations. Her immense
- wealth, traffic, industry; her flowing streams, her fertile plains,
- her delightful elevations, pleasant prospects, curious antiquities,
- flourishing cities, commodious inns, courteous inhabitants, her
- temperate air, her glorious show of liberty, every gift of providence
- that can make her the envy and the desirable mistress of the whole
- earth, is slighted and disregarded.</p>
-
- <p>You, Sir, to whom I pretend not to talk in this manner, well know that
- I had a desire by this present work, however mean, to rouse up the
- spirit of the Curious among us, to look about them and admire their
- native furniture: to show them we have rarities of domestic growth.
- What I offer them is an account of my journeyings hitherto, but little
- indeed, and with expedition enough, with accuracy no more than may be
- expected from a traveller; for truth in every particular, I can vouch
- only for my own share, strangers must owe somewhat to informations. I
- can assure you I endeavoured as much as possible not to be deceived,
- nor to deceive the reader. It was ever my opinion that a more intimate
- knowledge of Britain more becomes us, is more useful and as worthy a
- part of education for our young nobility and gentry as the view of any
- transmarine parts. And if I have learnt by seeing some places, men and
- manners, or have any judgment in things, it is not impossible to make a
- classic journey on this side the streights of Dover.</p>
-
- <p>Thus much at least I thought fit to premise in favour of the study of
- antiquities. And with particular deference to the society of British
- Antiquaries in London, to whom I remember with pleasure you first
- introduced me: since for some time I have had the honour of being their
- secretary; to them I beg leave to consecrate the following work. To
- the right honourable the Earl of Hartford the illustrious and worthy
- President, the right honourable the Earl of Winchelsea, Peter le Neve,
- esq; Roger Gale, esq; the illustrious and worthy Vice-presidents, and
- to the learned Members thereof. Then, lest I should fall under my own
- censure passed upon others, that know least of things nearest them, I
- shall deliver my thoughts about the history of <span class="smcap">Holland</span> before
- mentioned, which may serve as a short comment upon the map of this
- country which I published last year, with a purpose of assisting the
- gentlemen that are commissioners of sewers there, though it is of such
- a bulk as cannot conveniently be inserted into this volume.</p>
-
- <p>If we cast our eyes upon the geography of England, we must observe that
- much of the eastern shore is flat, low ground, whilst the western is
- steep and rocky. This holds generally true throughout the globe as to
- its great parts, countries or islands, and likewise particularly as to
- its little ones, mountains and plains. I mean, that mountains are steep
- and abrupt to the west,<a id="FNanchor_2" href="#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> especially the north-west, and have a gentle
- declivity eastward or to the south-east, and that plains ever descend
- eastward. I wonder very much that this remark has never been made. I
- took notice of it in our own country, almost before <span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">4</span>I had ever been
- out of it, in the universal declivity of that level eastward, in those
- parts where it did not by that means regard the ocean; particularly in
- South Holland, or the wapentake of Elho: the natural descent of water
- therein is not to the sea, as the rivers run, but directly eastward,
- and that very considerable. Beside, the current of every river is lower
- as more eastward: thus the Welland is higher in level than the Nen,
- the Nen than the Ouse; and probably at first both emptied themselves
- by the Ouse or Lyn river as most eastward. I observed in June 1732,
- that the Peterborough river Nen would willingly discharge itself into
- Whitlesea mere, and so to the Ouse at Lyn, if it were not hindered by
- the sluice at Horsey bridge by the river Nen. I see no difficulty to
- attribute the reason of it to the rotation of the globe. Those that
- have gone about to demonstrate to us that famous problem of the earth’s
- motion, have found out many mathematical and abstracted proofs for
- that purpose, but neglected this which is most sensible and before our
- eyes every minute. It is a property of matter, that when whirled round
- upon an <em>axis</em>, it endeavours to fly from the <em>axis</em>, as we
- see in the motion of a wheel, the dirt and loose parts are thrown the
- contrary way in a tangent line. This is owing to the natural inactivity
- of matter, which is not easily susceptible of motion. Now at the time
- that the body of the earth was in a mixt state between solid and fluid,
- before its present form of land and sea was perfectly determined, the
- almighty Artist gave it its great diurnal motion. By this means the
- elevated parts or mountainous tracts, as they consolidated whilst yet
- soft and yielding, flew somewhat westward, and spread forth a long
- declivity to the east: the same is to be said of the plains, their
- natural descent tending that way, and, as I doubt not, of the superfice
- of the earth below the ocean. This critical minute is sublimely
- described by the admirable poet and observer of nature,</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry" lang="la">
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0"><i>Namque canebat, uti magnum per inane coacta</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Semina terrarumque, animæque, marisque fuissent,</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Et liquidi simul ignis. Ut his exordia primis</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Omnia, &amp; ipse tener mundi concreverit orbis.</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Tum durare solum &amp; discludere nerea ponto</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Cœperit, &amp; rerum paulatim sumere formas.</i>
- <span class="fright"><span class="smcap">Virg.</span> Ecl. <span class="allsmcap">VI.</span></span></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">which may thus be englished.</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0">He sang, how from the mighty void, in one</div>
- <div class="i0">Large space, collected were the fluid seeds</div>
- <div class="i0">Of earth, air, sea and fire; from these came all.</div>
- <div class="i0">The callow world became one massive globe;</div>
- <div class="i0">The ocean by the hard’ning ground disjoin’d,</div>
- <div class="i0">New forms surpris’d the beauteous face of things.</div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">The truth of this observation I have seen universally confirmed in all
- my travels, and innumerable instances of it will occur to the reader
- throughout these discourses. I design another time professedly to
- treat of it in a philosophical way. But consequent to this doctrine it
- is that we have so large a quantity of this marshland in the middle
- of the eastern shore of England, seeming as if made by the washings
- and <em>eluvies</em> of the many rivers that fall that way, such as the
- Welland, the Witham, the Nen, the Ouse great and little, together
- with many other streams of inferior note. These all empty themselves
- into the great bay formed between the Lincolnshire wolds and cliffs
- of Norfolk, called by Ptolemy <i lang="la">Mentaris æstuarium</i>, as rightly<span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">5</span>
- corrected by Mr. Baxter, seeing it is composed of the mouths of so
- many rivers; <em>Ment</em>, or <em>Mant</em>, signifying <em>ostium</em> in
- the British language. Beside the great quantity of high and inland
- country that discharges its waters this way, even as far as Fritwell
- in Oxfordshire; all the level country lies before it, extending itself
- from within some few miles of Cambridge south, to Keal hills near
- Bolingbroke in Lincolnshire north, about sixty miles long, known by the
- names of the Isle of Ely, Holland and Marshland. This country, since
- the flood, I believe was much in the same state as at present, and for
- its bulk the richest spot of ground in the kingdom; once well inhabited
- by gentry, especially the religious. I apprehend the more inland part
- of it, the Isle of Ely, Deeping Fen, &amp;c. was not in distant ages in so
- bad a condition as now, because the natural drainage of it was better,
- before the sea had by degrees added so much solid ground upon the
- coasts.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Holland</span>, <i>its name</i>.</div>
-
- <p>In this country I have observed abundance of old Welsh words left among
- us; and I am persuaded that the name of Holland is derived from that
- language, though now terminated by a later word, as is frequent enough.
- It signifies no more than salt or marsh land, such as is gained from
- the sea; and to this day we call the marshes adjoining to, and sometime
- overflowed by the sea, <em>salt marshes</em>. Likewise upon the sea shore
- they formerly made salt in great abundance. The hills all along upon
- the sea bank, the remains of such works, are still called salt hills:
- such are at Fleet, Holbech, Gosberton, Wainflet,<a id="FNanchor_3" href="#Footnote_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> &amp;c. Many names
- of rivers and roads, thence derived, remain still, such as Salters
- Lode, Salteney Gate, &amp;c. <em>Hallt</em> in the British is <em>salsus</em>,
- salt, as ἅλς in the Greek is <em>mare</em>, the sea; and most evidently
- borrowed from the British, because of its most notorious quality. The
- adjoining part of this country in Norfolk, is called marsh land, in the
- very same sense: so is Zeland and Holland at the mouth of the Rhine,
- where our Cimbric ancestors once lived. In the Cimbric Chersoness, now
- Denmark, is Halland, a division of the country by the Saxons called
- <em>Halgo land</em>. Vid. Spelman’s Glassary, voce <em>Sciringes heal</em>.
- Holsatia, Holstein, &amp;c. and our Holderness in Yorkshire, must thus be
- understood. Hence the isle of Ely too is denominated, the very word
- <em>heli</em> being <em>salsugo</em> in the British. This, in the most
- antient British times, was as much marsh land as our wapentake of Elho
- is now, which acknowledges the same original; <em>hoe</em> signifying a
- parcel of high ground.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><i>First Inhabitants the</i> <span class="smcap">Britons</span>.</div>
-
- <p>We may be assured that this whole country was well inhabited by the
- antient Britons, and that as far as the sea coasts, especially the
- islets and higher parts more free from ordinary inundations of the
- rivers, or though not imbanked above the reach of the spring tides;
- for the nature of this place perfectly answered their gusto, both as
- affording abundant pasturage for their cattle, wherein their chief
- sustenance and employment consisted, and in being so very secure from
- incursion and depredations of war and troublesome neighbours, by the
- difficult fens upon the edge of the high country. Here I have not been
- able to meet with any remains of them, except it be the great quantity
- of <em>tumuli</em>, or barrows, in all these parts; scarce a parish
- without one or more of them. They are generally of a very considerable
- bulk, much too large for Roman; nor has any thing Roman been discovered
- in cutting them through; though, a few years ago, two or three were
- dug quite away near Boston, and another at Frampton, to make brick of,
- or to mend the highways. I guess these were the high places of worship
- among our Cimbrian predecessors, purposely cast up, because there
- <span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">6</span>are no natural hills in these parts; and we know antiquity affected
- places of elevation for religious rites. No doubt, some are places
- of sepulture, especially such as are very frequent upon the edges of
- the high countries all around, looking down upon the fens. Hither
- seem to have been carried the remains of great men, whose habitations
- were in the marshy grounds, who chose to be buried upon higher ground
- than where they lived; as is the case all over England; for the
- <em>tumuli</em> are commonly placed upon the brink of hills hanging over
- a valley, where doubtless their dwellings were.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Romans.</div>
-
- <p>But when the Romans had made considerable progress in reducing this
- island into the regular form of a province, and began the mighty work
- of laying down the great military ways; then I suppose it was, that
- they cast their eyes upon this fertile and wide-extended plain, and
- projected the draining it. <span class="sidenote"><i>The</i> <span class="smcap">Hermen Street.</span></span>In the reign of Nero, in all probability,
- they made the <em>Hermen Street</em>,<a id="FNanchor_4" href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> as now called by a Saxon word
- equivalent to the Latin <i lang="la">via militaris</i>. That this was the first,
- seems intimated by the name, in that it has retained κατ’ εξοχην, what
- is but a common appellative of such roads. <span class="sidenote">TAB. LVI.</span>This noble work, taking
- in the whole of it, was intended to be a meridian line running from
- the southern ocean, through London, to the utmost bounds of Scotland.
- This may be inferred from the main of it, which runs directly north
- and south. And another argument of its early date, drawn from three
- remarkable particularities, I have observed in travelling upon it,
- and which show it was begun before that notable people had a thorough
- knowledge of the geography of the island. One is, its deviation
- westward as it advances towards these fens from London: another is,
- the new branch, drawn a little beyond Lincoln westward into Yorkshire,
- out of the principal stem going to the Humber: a third is, that it is
- double in Lincolnshire. Of these I shall speak again when we come to
- the following <em>Iter Romanum</em>. Now we will only consider such part
- of it as has relation to the country we are upon; and that is the road
- going from Caster by Peterburgh to Sleford in this county, which is
- undoubtedly Roman, and which first occasioned the draining this fenny
- tract, and surely more antient than that which goes above Stanford,
- and along the heathy part of the county to Lincoln. My reasoning
- depends upon the manner of the road itself, and upon that other great
- work which accompanies it, called the <em>Cardike</em>, equally to be
- ascribed to the same authors. This road is nearer the first intention
- of a meridian line than the other: but, when they found it carried them
- through a low country, where it perpetually needed reparation, and that
- they must necessarily decline westward to reach Lincoln, they quitted
- it, and struck out a new one, more westerly, that should run altogether
- upon better ground. This, if we have leave to guess, was done after
- the time of Lollius Urbicus, lieutenant under Antoninus Pius, who with
- great industry and courage had extended and secured the whole province
- as far as Edinburgh. Then it was they had time and opportunity to
- complete the work in the best manner, being perfect masters of the
- country, and of its geography: and this road was for the ready march of
- their armies and provisions to succour those northern frontiers. But it
- seems as if they had long before that time brought the Hermen Street
- as far as Lincolnshire,<a id="FNanchor_5" href="#Footnote_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> especially that eastern branch, or original
- stem, of which we <span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">7</span>are treating, and that as early as the reign
- of Nero, and at the same time made the Cardike. I shall give you my
- further reasons for this conjecture, and nothing more than conjecture
- can be expected in such matters.</p>
-
- <figure class="illowp90" id="i_006">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>42·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <img src="images/i_006.jpg" alt="Bricantiæ Pars">
- </figure>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><i>Old</i> <span class="smcap">Hermen Street</span>.</div>
-
- <p>The road which we suppose the original stem of the Hermen Street
- goes in a direct line, and full north and south from Durobrivæ, or
- Caster, to Sleford; and there, for aught I know, it terminates. It is
- manifest, that if it had been carried further in that direction, it
- would have passed below Lincoln heath, and arrive at the river where
- it is not fordable. It parts from the present and real Hermen Street
- at Upton, a mile north of Caster; but this is continued in a strait
- line, which demonstrates that it is the original one: the other goes
- from it with an angular branching. This traverses the river Welland at
- Westdeeping, and is carried in a high bank across the watery meadows
- of Lolham bridges.<a id="FNanchor_6" href="#Footnote_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> These are numerous and large arches made upon
- the road, to let the waters pass through, taken notice of by the great
- Camden as of antiquity; and no doubt originally Roman: then it crosses
- the Glen at Catebridge, (whereabouts it is now called King’sgate,
- <em>via regia</em>) to Bourn, (where Roman coins are often found, many
- in possession of Jos. Banks, jun. esq.) so to Fokingham and Sleaford.
- It is now called Longdike. All along parallel to this road runs a
- famous old drain, called <span class="sidenote"><i>The</i> <span class="smcap">Cardike</span>.</span>
- <em>Cardike</em>.<a id="FNanchor_7" href="#Footnote_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> Mr. Morton has been very
- curious in tracing it out through his county, Northamptonshire. I am
- sorry I have not yet had opportunity to pursue his laudable example,
- in finishing the course of it through Lincolnshire: but as far as I
- have observed it, it is marked in the map. This is a vast artificial
- canal drawn north and south upon the edge of the fens, from Peterburgh
- river to Lincoln river, about fifty mile long, and by the Romans
- without all peradventure. It is taken notice of by serjeant Callis,
- our countryman, in his readings on the sewers. That wise people, with
- a greatness of thought peculiar to themselves, observed the great use
- of such a channel, that by water carriage should open an inland traffic
- between their two great colonies of Durobrivæ and Lindum, or Lincoln,
- without going round the hazardous voyage of the Estuary: just such was
- the policy of Corbulo in Tacitus, Annal. xi. <i lang="la">Ne tamen miles otium
- indueret inter Mosam Rhenumque trium &amp; viginti millium spatio fossam
- produxit, qua incerta oceani evitarentur.</i> And lest the soldiery
- should be idle, he drew a dike for the space of three and twenty miles
- between the Maese and the Rhine, whereby the dangers of the ocean are
- avoided; which is exactly a parallel case with ours. Besides, it is
- plain that by intercepting all the little streams coming down from
- the high country, and naturally overflowing our levels, it would much
- facilitate the draining thereof, which at this time they must have had
- in view. This canal enters Lincolnshire at Eastdeeping, proceeding
- upon an exact level, which it takes industriously between the high and
- low grounds all the way, by Langtoft and Baston: passing the river
- Glen at Highbridge, it runs in an uninterrupted course as far as
- Kyme: beyond that I have not yet followed it; but I suppose it meets
- Lincoln river near Washenburgh, and where probably they had a fort
- to secure the navigation, as upon other proper intermediate places,
- such <span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">8</span>as Walcot, Garick, Billingborough, Waldram-hall, Narborough,
- Eye antiently Ege, <em>agger</em>; and I imagine St. Peter’s de Burgo
- hence owes its original: and a place called Low there, a camp ditched
- about, just where the Cardike begins on one side the river: another
- such fortification at Horsey bridge on the other side the river: all
- these names point out some antient works. It is all the way threescore
- foot broad, having a large flat bank, on both sides, for the horses
- that drew their boats. Roman coins are frequently found through its
- whole length, as you well know, who are possessed of many of them of
- different emperors. Now it seems to me highly probable that Catus
- Decianus, the procurator in Nero’s time, was the projector both of this
- road and this canal, two notable examples in different kinds of Roman
- industry and judgment; and the memorial of the author of so great a
- benefit to the country is handed down to us in several particulars; as
- that of Catesbridge before mentioned upon the road, and of Catwater, a
- stream derived from this artificial channel, at the very place where
- it begins, to the Nen at Dovesdale bar: likewise at Dovesdale bar
- comes in another stream from the north, from a place by Shephey bank,
- called Catscove corner; and this was first hinted to me by our deceased
- friend, the learned and reverend Mr. John Britain, late schoolmaster
- of Holbech: to which we may add Catley, a town near Walcot upon the
- Cardike beyond Kyme; and Catthorp, a village near Stanfield, upon the
- road. We may likewise upon the same grounds conjecture that Lollius
- Urbicus repaired this work; whence it seems that his name, though
- corrupted, is preserved in Lolham bridges; for there is no town of that
- kind near it. Vid. Gale’s <cite>Itinerar.</cite> pag. 28. Lowlsworth upon the
- Hermen Street without Bishops-Gate, in Spittle-Fields. Certainly this
- is a good hint for our imitation, had we a like public spirit. Now this
- road thus accompanying the canal, was of great service to the traders,
- who might have an eye upon their vessels all the while. And even after
- the projection of the other branch which goes to Lincoln upon the
- higher ground, the navigation here was undoubtedly continued in full
- perfection, till the Romans left the island; for such is its advantage
- of situation, that it could never want water, nor ever overflow: that
- stream of Catwater seems to be cut on purpose, at least scoured up,
- to preserve these uses in drawing off the floods of Peterburgh river
- into the Nen, if its proper channel was not sufficient. The meaning of
- the word <em>Cardike</em> is no more than Fendike: we use the word still
- in this country, to signify watery, boggy places: it is of British
- original.</p>
-
- <p>I doubt not but that the Romans likewise made that other cut, between
- Lincoln river and the Trent, called the Foss: the name seems to
- indicate it, as well as the thing itself; for it is but a consequent of
- the Cardike, and formed on the same idea: so that I suppose it was not
- originally cut, but scoured by Henry I. as Hoveden mentions: then the
- navigation was continued by land from Peterborough quite to York, and
- this was very useful to the Romans in their northern wars. The other
- way they might come from Huntingdon.</p>
-
- <p>The 20th of October, 1726, I traced the Cardike round the out-skirts of
- Sir William Ellys’s park of Nockton: it runs near the site of the old
- priory, whose ruins are just visible: it bounds the park entirely on
- the fen side, and is very perfect thereabouts; the high-country streams
- from Dunston, and others, running along it. We saw where it crossed a
- marshy valley, and reached the opposite high ground in its course to
- Washenburgh. A well of the old priory is well preserved, remarkably
- good water.</p>
-
- <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">9</span></p>
-
- <p>That part of the Cardike between Lincoln and the Trent was begun to be
- cleansed by bishop Atwater, but he died before completed. It is highly
- probable that the Romans called our Cardike <em>Fossa</em>, which happens
- to be preserved only on that part between Lincoln and the Trent.</p>
-
- <p>The Fossdike in being in Edward the Confessor’s time. Vide Camden,
- <cite>Nottingham</cite>.</p>
-
- <p>Cardike runs close by Thurlby town end.</p>
-
- <p>The marquis of Lindsey gave me an exceeding fair Maximinus; the
- reverse, <span class="allsmcap">GENIO POP. ROM.</span> found at Grimsthorp.</p>
-
- <p>Mrs. Tichmus of Stamford told me she once had many Roman coins, from a
- great parcel found at or near Sleford.</p>
-
- <p>The 18th of October, 1728, I travelled on the Roman road, the eastern
- branch of the Hermen Street from Sleford, for about three miles
- southward. I observed that it went not to Sleford town directly, but to
- the old house of Sir Robert Carr’s, formerly Lord Hussey’s (attainted
- for treason in time of Henry VIII.) called Old Place. We saw by the
- way, on the east side the road, a mile or more south of Sleford, an old
- work, square, ditched about, large, with an entry from the road; the
- earth of the vallum thrown on both sides.</p>
-
- <p>But it was not enough for the Romans thus to provide for commerce
- and travelling, without they set proper stations or mansions for the
- reception of negociators and the like. Accordingly we find the distance
- between Caster and Lincoln, about 40 miles, has two towns upon it at
- proper intervals for lodging; these are Sleaford and Stanfield: the
- original names of them are in irrecoverable silence, but the eternity
- of the Romans is inherent. <span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Sleaford</span> Ro. <i>town</i>.</span>At Sleaford they have found many Roman
- coins, especially of the Constantine family and their wives, about the
- castle and the spring-head a little above the town. It is probable that
- Alexander, the bishop of Lincoln, built his work upon the site of a
- Roman citadel. Beside, at Sleaford comes in the other Roman road from
- the fen country by Brig-end causeway, and at the intersection of these
- two roads the old town stood. At Stanfield,<span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Stanfield</span> Ro. <i>town</i>.</span> which is a little village
- near Burn, they find daily the foundations of buildings, innumerable
- coins and other antiquities, of which yourself and our friend Mr. John
- Hardy have a good quantity. These are chiefly dug up in a close called
- Blackfield, from the extraordinary richness of the ground. It stands
- half a mile off the road upon elevated ground, whence you may see
- Spalding, Boston, and the whole level: it is now only of some note for
- a good chalybeat spring.</p>
-
- <p>I shall rehearse a few things I have noted hereabouts, and then we
- will descend into Holland. The following antient part of the genealogy
- of the inheritors of Brun, or Bourn, contains several antiquities
- hereabouts. The spring-head at Bourn, near the castle belonging to
- them, is remarkable for its largeness and quickness.</p>
-
- <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">10</span></p>
-
- <figure class="illowp100" id="i_010-11">
- <img src="images/i_010-11.jpg" alt="genealogy">
- <div><a href="#t_010_11">See transcription</a></div>
- </figure>
-
- <p>There were other collateral branches of this family about 1244. such as
- Thomas Wake, who held lands in Stoke and Irthingbure under the abbot
- of Peterburgh. Wydo Wac held half a knight’s fee in Deping, Beresham<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">12</span>
- and Stow, of the heirs of Hugh Wake the same year. Hugo Wac, Roger Wac,
- witnesses to a charter 1152. Rymer’s <cite>Fœdera</cite>, I. p. 12. From Sir
- Tho. Wake, that married the daughter of Sir John Pateshul, is descended
- his grace the present archbishop of Canterbury.</p>
-
- <p>Not long since some British instruments of brass called celts,
- arrow-heads, and bits of bridles of the same metal, were found at Aye
- near the Cardike. The 19th of November, 1731, I saw four celts and a
- brass spear-head found at Ege, or Aye: the celts were of the female
- or recipient kind: they were bought by bishop Kennet, and are now in
- the gentlemen’s society at Peterborough. The Druids buried them there,
- when the Romans drove them northward: there has been some great work
- of the Druids there, as I take it. At Jernham was found an old brass
- seal, a man blowing a horn, the legend <cite>John de Sodeburi</cite>, now in
- the hands of Mr. Richards of Stanford. At Edenham was a stone cross
- now demolished: the inscription on it I have inserted in the <span class="sidenote">TAB. XI.</span>Plate of
- Crosses: I saw the stump of it remaining not long since: hard by has
- been an old castle at Bitham. Grimsthorp, the pleasant seat of the
- Duke of Ancaster: the park is very large and beautiful; in the middle
- of it stood Vaudy abbey in a vale, founded by Wil. de Albemarle 1147.
- some small ruins of it are left: the lawn there, whereon is an annual
- horse-race, is extremely delightful.<a id="FNanchor_13" href="#Footnote_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a> In Hakunby church upon a stone
- I read this inscription,</p>
-
- <div class="center antiqua">Iste fuit Rector Thomas de Brunn vocitatus.</div>
-
- <p class="noindent">Sempringham abbey founded by St. Gilbert lord of the place, and author
- of the Gilbertin order, where men and women lived together in holy
- community: now an old ruinous seat of the earls of Lincoln.</p>
-
- <p>Trekingham, so called, as some will have it, from a fanciful story of
- three Danish kings there buried: round the font in the church is this
- inscription, + <span class="antiqua">Ave maria gratia p. d. t.</span> Upon a tombstone in the
- church-yard this,</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry" lang="la">
- <div class="stanza large">
- <div class="i0"><span class="gesperrtx">HIC INTVMVLATVR JOHANNES</span></div>
- <div class="i0"><span class="gesperrtx">QVONDAM DN̅S DE TRIKINGHA</span>M.</div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">St. Saviour’s chapel at the end of Brig-end causeway is still left,
- turned into a mansion house, founded by George of Lincoln, endowed
- with lands to maintain the causeway: a legacy highly to be commended.
- At Ranceby near Sleford on a hill, many Roman antiquities found, of
- which an account in Leland’s Itinerar. Hale Parva, Hale Magna, so
- called from the hall or seat of the lord of the manor: in the former is
- Helpringham, which I suppose no more than <i lang="la">Hale parva ingham</i>, the
- termination being very common in towns hereabouts.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Holland</span> <i>imbanked by the</i> Romans.</div>
-
- <p>Having given an account of the preparation made by the Romans towards
- gaining this vast tract of fen-land, the Lincolnshire levels, by
- securing it from the fresh water of the high countries in that noble
- cut called Cardike; <span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">13</span>we must imagine their next care was to render
- it safe from the flux of the Ocean, by making a great bank all along
- upon the sea coasts: this was done as to the wapentake of Elho by what
- we call the Old Sea-dike, which by the people at this day is said to
- be made by Julius Cæsar and his soldiers; as if they had knowledge
- of its being a Roman work: at the mouths of all the rivers no doubt
- they made gotes and sluices as at present, which was an invention of
- Osiris, the great king of Egypt, as Diodorus Siculus tells us, I. 19.
- We may well suppose it was performed after the time of Lollius Urbicus,
- scarce fully accomplished before: possibly in Severus his time, which
- seems not obscurely hinted at by Herodian, III. <i lang="la">Sed in primis curæ
- habuit pontibus occupare paludes, ut stare in tuto milites possint
- atque in solido præliari. Siquidem Britanniæ pleraque loca frequentibus
- oceani alluvionibus paludescunt. Per eas igitur paludes barbari ipsi
- natant excursantque ad ilia usque demersi.</i> But he had it in his
- particular care to make passes over the fens, that the soldiers might
- stand firm and fight upon hard ground; for many places in Britain are
- marshy through the frequent overflowings of the ocean, over which the
- inhabitants will swim, and walk though up to the middle in water. To
- which description no place so well corresponds.</p>
-
- <p>That the Romans thoroughly inhabited this fertile plain, the
- following instances will sufficiently evince. About 1713, at Elm near
- Wisbech, an urn full of Roman brass money was taken up, not far from
- a <em>tumulus</em> of which the common people have strange notions,
- affirming that they frequently see a light upon it in dark winter
- nights. Dr. Massey has many of the coins; they are of the later
- empire. There is another piece of high ground near it, where have been
- buildings. Dr. Massey says there is a Roman altar in a wall there. At
- Gedney hill several Roman coins have been found; some of Antoninus are
- in your collection. In the same hamlet, about two mile north of Southea
- bank, is a pasture called the High Doles, being a square doubly moted,
- where ancient foundations have been dug up, and some Roman coins.
- Another like square so moted is in the parish of St. Edmund’s, about
- the same distance from the said bank, where the like matters have been
- discovered. Aswic grange in Whaplodedrove parish is a high piece of
- ground, square and moted about: in this and near it many Roman coins
- have been dug up, and urns, which I have seen; some coins in your
- collection. This is near Catscove corner; and it was Mr. Britain’s
- notion that Catus made this work among many others as <em>castella</em>
- to secure the possession of the country: these lie as it were in a
- line, on the most southerly part of Elho. In the parish of Fleet near
- Ravensclow, about 1698,<a id="FNanchor_14" href="#Footnote_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a> upon a piece of high ground where buildings
- have been, Mr. Edward Lenton dug up a large urn with letters round it,
- full of Roman coins,<a id="FNanchor_15" href="#Footnote_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a> about the quantity of three pecks, covered
- with an oak board: the urn he broke in pieces: they were of brass piled
- edgeways, mostly about the time of Gallienus and the thirty tyrants as
- called, Tetricus, Claudius Gothicus, Victorinus, Carausius, Alectus,
- &amp;c. I have seen vast numbers of them, and have some by me: many are in
- your collection. Near this place runs a low channel, quite to Fleet
- haven, which probably then was the chief outlet of the waters into
- the sea. Mr. Lenton found some ship-timber upon it with rusty nails,
- probably of some Roman barge. None of these coins were lower than the
- Tetrici, which proves the imbankation was made before their time. In
- the same latitude, and in the next parish, Holbech,<a id="FNanchor_16" href="#Footnote_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a> in a pasture
- called Anytofts,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">14</span> in my tenure, is a like square of high ground, where
- rubbish of buildings and coins have been found; it is moted likewise:
- not long since a labourer, scouring up a pit in the mote, took up an
- urn now in my possession. At Giggleshurn, in casting up a ditch, were
- many Roman coins found: we may reasonably conjecture Moulton hall was
- such another place originally: and in a Held not far from thence,
- called Woods, near Ravens-bank, three mile south of Moulton church,
- upon plowing, several Roman urns and vessels were found, of fine white
- and red earth; some of them were brought to Mr. Hardy. At Spalding,
- Roman antiquities have been found, particularly cisterns; of which
- some accounts in the Acts of the Royal Soc. N<sup>o</sup> 279. and there was a
- Roman castle there, as I conjecture, on the north side of the town, not
- far from the river on the right hand of the great road to Bolton, the
- square form of the ditch yet remaining. These places, with some other
- of like nature, make another line of fortresses through the middle of
- the country, parallel to the present towns. I have been told that at
- Theophilus Grant’s house in Whaplode, near Gorham’s holt, aqueducts
- of clay, one let into another, have been dug up;<a id="FNanchor_17" href="#Footnote_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a> and that in the
- seadike bank, between Fleet and Gedney, a brass sword was lately found,
- which seem to be Roman. Thus far in South Holland. At Boston, about
- 1716, they dug up an old Roman foundation beyond the school-house: near
- it some hewn stones formed a cavity, in which was an urn with ashes,
- another little pot with an ear, and an iron key of an odd figure, in
- my possession. Some time before then, in Mr. Brown’s garden at the
- Green poles, they dug up an urn lined with thin lead full of red earth
- and bones. A like one I have seen now in Sir Hans Sloan’s museum,
- unquestionably Roman.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Roman</span> <i>roads there</i>.</div>
-
- <p>As the Romans had thus intirely taken in and inhabited the country, no
- doubt but according to their custom they drew several roads across it:
- but I fear it will be very difficult to give an exact account of them:
- such is the nature of the ground, having no solid materials, that they
- would be presently wore away without more constant reparations than the
- inhabitants practise: yet I have little doubt in supposing one of their
- ways was drawn from the northern high country about Bolingbroke by
- Stickford, Stickney, Sibsey, and so to Boston river about Redstonegote,
- where it passed it by a ferry. I have fancied to myself that several
- parcels of it are plainly Roman, by the straitness and by the gravelly
- bottom: from thence to Kirkton it is indubitably so, being laid with a
- very large bed of gravel: and just a mile from the river is a stone,
- now called the Mile-stone, standing in a <i lang="la">quadrivium</i>; it is
- a large round stone like the <i lang="la">frustum</i> of a pillar, and very
- properly a <i lang="la">lapis milliaris</i>. From Kirkton I imagine the road went
- to Donington, where it met the great and principal road of the country,
- which is drawn from Ely to Sleaford in a line not much different from a
- strait one. It is certain that there is such a road from Grantchester,
- which was a Roman town a mile above Cambridge, to Ely by Stretham:
- thence another goes across the depth of the fens by Upwell and Elme
- towards Wisbech; and it was near this road that the urn with coins
- first mentioned was found: and anno 1730 a Roman urn full of coins
- was found at the same place; they were of silver, and very fair. Mr.
- Beaupre Bell, a curious gentleman, has many Roman coins found near this
- Roman road by Emney; several of Carausius undescribed. Wisbech probably
- was a Roman station, and their castle founded upon an older foundation.
- I suppose this road passed over <span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">15</span>Wisbech river above the town towards
- Guyhurn chapel, then went to Trokenholt and Clowscross, there entering
- our country: from thence that it went in a strait line to Spalding, by
- which means most of those square forts we have mentioned in Elho, where
- Roman antiquities were discovered, together with most of the southern
- hamlets, will be found to be situate near or upon it; such as St.
- Edmund’s chapel, the moted place there, Gedneyhill chapel, Highdoles
- there, Holbech chapel, Whaplodedrove chapel, Aswic grange, St.
- Katherine’s, and Moulton chapel: whether any traces of it can now be
- found or no, I cannot say; but the villages thereabouts seem strongly
- to favour the conjecture. Supposing it fact, I should not be surprised
- if it now be laid perfectly level with the surface of this fenny soil,
- seeing I have observed the like appearance of a Roman road when carried
- across a meadow in the high countries, and which was composed of a bed
- of gravel 100 foot broad, particularly at the Roman city of Alauna by
- Bicester, of which I shall in a following page give an account: and
- this of ours I suppose only made of the earth of the country thrown
- into a bank, because it was impossible to get more durable materials.</p>
-
- <p>From Spalding, according to my sentiments, this road went towards
- Herring bridge (the word retaining some semblance of antiquity) upon
- Surflet river, so along the division between the wapentakes of Kirton
- and Aveland, near Wrigbolt and Cressy-hall, to the end of Brig-end
- causeway at Donington. Here, Holland brig or Brig-end causeway has all
- the requisites that can ascertain it to be a Roman work, being strait
- and laid with a solid bed of stone: the present indeed is repaired
- every year, but we have much reason to think the first projection of it
- through this broad morass was no less than Roman. From thence it went
- to Sleford; then it seems to have gone across the heath, and to have
- fallen in with the great Hermen street at a remarkable place called
- Biard’s leap: from thence possibly it was carried, or was designed to
- be, by Stretleythorp and Brentbroughton over the Witham to Crocolana
- upon the foss-way; then over the Trent into Nottinghamshire, where
- it answers in a line with the road to Tuxford and Worksop; and so on
- perhaps to the Irish sea, whereby it would become a great parallel
- to the Watling street running across the kingdom, as it does, from
- south-east to north-west. At Sleaford I am inclinable to think another
- road came from Banovallum, or Horn castle, to the east of the river
- Bane southward by les Yates, and so crossed the Witham by Chapelhill
- and the Cardike somewhere about Kyme: or else crossed the Witham at the
- Hermitage, so went by Swinshed north end to Donington: this principal
- road we speak of on the other end seems to go from Ely by Soham and
- Bury to the German ocean. I am not ashamed to offer my conjecture to
- the curious, however slender its foundation may be, if only as a hint
- for a future search: but it seems to me very probable, that if it
- was not fully executed by the Romans, they intended it, and have in
- part manifestly done it. I conceit it crosses the Icening street at
- Ikesworth near Bury, then goes to Bretenham, the Combretonium; but with
- that country of Suffolk I am at present perfectly unacquainted. Return
- we to Holland.</p>
-
- <p>Besides this great road, I think we need not scruple to assert that
- now called Ravensbank to be another, going east and west, through the
- heart of the country, from Tid St. Mary’s to Cowbit. I have rode some
- miles upon it, where it is now extremely strait and broad. We have
- been informed that it is actually in some old writings called Romans
- Bank: it is well known the Welsh pronounced Roman <em>Rhuffain</em>, and
- our English word <em>ruffian</em> is from this fountain. Among the Welsh
- the letters <em>m</em> and <em>v</em> are<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">16</span> equivalent, to which <em>f</em>
- is perfectly alike: <em>maur</em> and <em>vaur</em> is great, and many
- more: so that <em>Roman</em>, <em>raven</em>, and <em>ruffen</em>, is the
- same word; and hence no doubt came <em>rambling</em>, <em>roving</em>,
- and <em>roming</em>, as an ignominious appellative of such as thought
- every country better than their own; for such to our ancestors seemed
- the Romans, that scarce left any corner of the known world impervious
- to their all-conquering eagles, carrying arts and arms along with
- them as an impetuous torrent, with a most glorious and invincible
- perseverance. Further, it is not unlikely that the upper road running
- east and west nearer the sea bank, now called Old Spalding gate, is
- originally Roman: in some places, as about Fleet, it retains the name
- of Haregate, which is equivalent to <i lang="la">via militaris</i> when spoken
- by our Saxon progenitors. Thus the main road and these two lesser
- ones seem sufficiently to answer this purpose as to Elho: it seems to
- me, that when the Romans made the many forts all along the eastern
- shore, to guard against the Saxons, that this bay was provided for
- by five, two upon the edges of the high country, and three upon the
- rivers; Brancaster in Norfolk, Burgh on Lincolnshire side; Wisbech,<a id="FNanchor_18" href="#Footnote_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a>
- Spalding, and Boston, upon each river of the fenny tract.</p>
-
- <p>Having given you then all the authentic or conjectural memoirs that
- have in general occurred to my reflection upon the most ancient state
- of this country, I shall proceed to other particularities, nearer
- our own times, through every parish; only first take notice in short
- of a wonderful appearance in nature all over this country, and which
- is common to all such like upon the globe, as far as my informations
- reach: that is, <span class="sidenote"><i>Antediluvian trees.</i></span>the infinite quantities of subterraneous trees, lying
- three or four foot deep, of vast bulk and different species, chiefly
- fir and oak, exceeding hard, heavy and black: many times the branches
- reach so near day as to break their ploughs, for so I have heard
- them complain about Crowland: about Kyme and Billingay they have dug
- up some boats or canoos made of hollowed trunks of trees.<a id="FNanchor_19" href="#Footnote_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a> Many
- people will think that this is nothing but the effect of particular
- floods, and that this country was once a forest, and not long since
- disafforested. This country was once taken into the forest of Kesteven
- by the Norman kings, (as you have told me) only with a political view
- of extending their power, and disafforested soon after at the instance
- of the prior of Spalding: yet it is true of Nassaburg hundred only,
- in Northamptonshire. But in my apprehension, as to the matter before
- us, such confine their notions to very scanty bounds: an universal
- phænomenon requires a more dilated solution, and no less than that
- of the Noachian deluge. But upon this I hope for an occasion to
- be more copious another time: at present I remember a passage in
- Pausanias’s <cite>Attics</cite> toward the end; speaking of an ebeny statue
- of Archigetes, “I have heard, (says he) from a man of Cyprus very
- skilful in medicinal herbs, that ebeny bears no leaves, no fruit, nor
- has it any stock exposed to the sun, only roots in the earth, which the
- Ethiopians dig up. Some of them are particularly skilful in finding
- them out.” I doubt not but our author speaks of subterranean trees, and
- that our people might use this timber to better use than burning it.</p>
-
- <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">17</span></p>
-
- <p>Most writers, and particularly Mr. Camden, and most strangers, have an
- injurious opinion of this country, and apply that to the whole which
- is true but of part of it: for in the main the land is admirably good,
- hard, and dry; produces excellent corn and grass; feeds innumerable
- sheep and oxen of a very large size, and good flesh and wool; bears
- wood extremely well, has several large woods in it, some intirely of
- oak of considerable size; is full of hedge-rows and quicksets, and
- in summer time looks like the garden of Eden: it is level, and most
- delightful to travellers, whether on horseback, or in a coach. The air
- indeed is moist, as being near the sea, and bordering upon the fens
- of the isle of Ely: as to the first, it is the same upon every sea
- coast; as to the latter, they are chiefly on the south side, whence
- the sun for the most part draws off the vapours from this country.
- Indeed this inconvenience accrues from such vicinity, the production
- of gnats; to which Angelus Politianus has done so much honour in that
- beautiful Greek epigram you showed me; and is well guarded against
- by the gentry in the use of netted canopies hung round their beds,
- which was an invention of the Ægyptians living in a like country.
- Vide Brown’s Garden of Cyrus, p. 30. But all things necessary for the
- comfort of life are here in great plenty; and visitants ever go away
- with a better opinion of it than they bring. That great soul king
- Charles I. himself undertaking the glorious talk, and others under him,
- had projected and made such stately works of <em>sewers</em>, as would
- have rendered this country before now, for trade and beauty, the rival
- of its name-sake beyond sea; but the licentious times that succeeded,
- gave the unthinking mob (incited by his avowed adversary in all things,
- Cromwell) an opportunity to destroy them. I have often considered and
- admired the length, breadth, and depth of their canals, the vastness of
- their gotes and sluices: indeed I think they made many more than were
- useful, and might have laid out the whole in a better manner. I would
- not, like the Trojan Prophetess, prognosticate ill to my own country;
- but it is not difficult to foresee, that unless some project be taken
- in hand, like that which my friend Mr. Kinderley published some time
- ago, this vast and rich tract must be abandoned to eels and wild ducks.
- A thing of this nature is not to be done but by the senate of the
- kingdom taking the matter intirely into their own hands; and if I have
- any judgement, whatever new works are made, ought always to be carried
- eastward only, for reasons I inculcated before: therefore, instead of
- deriving the Welland into the Witham, as was his notion, I would have
- it brought to the Nen, and both into the Ouse at Lynn, as it was in its
- original and natural state.</p>
-
- <p>Since the time of the Romans, beyond their first bank have been many
- intakes, by successive banks, of the best ground in the world left
- by the sea, which contracts its own limits by throwing up banks of
- sand out of the estuary: so that, from time to time, the land-owners
- upon these frontiers gain several thousands of acres. It is observed,
- the land so imbanked is ever higher in level than that left behind
- it; and I doubt not but some time the whole bay between Lincolnshire
- and Norfolk (being one of our great sovereign’s noblest chambers in
- his British dominions over the sea, vide Seld. <cite>Mar. claus.</cite>)
- will become dry land. By this means the parishes hereabouts increase
- to a huge bulk. Holbech from Dovesdale bar, where it joins to
- Cambridgeshire, to the limits of the salt marshes, is near twenty miles
- long. The cattle bred on this ground are very large; the sheep never
- have horns. Smithfield market, as now much supported, was chiefly set
- up by the inhabitants here, as I have been told, particularly by<span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">18</span> Mr.
- William Hobson, brother to the famous Cambridge carrier, and Mr. Cust;
- the London butchers, before then, commonly going into the country to
- buy cattle.</p>
-
- <p>In every parish formerly were many chapels, it being impracticable
- for people to come so far to one church, though now most of them
- are demolished, at what time I cannot imagine. No part of England
- boasts of so many beautiful churches, having generally lofty spires
- of fine squared stone, fetched from Barneck pits, which are a coarse
- rag full of petrified shells of all kinds of small fish, and not, as
- some think, from Norway. And in no very distant times, not a parish
- without great numbers of gentry, lords, knights, and great families,
- who made a figure in the world: now scarce any remains of them, but
- the site of their houses moted round, their tombs in the churches,
- their arms in the painted windows, where they have by chance escaped
- the fury of fanatic zeal. Many religious houses formerly there; and
- nearly the whole country was got into their hands, as appears by the
- old terriers, or town-books. The only houses of note are at present
- Dunton hall, in Tyd St. Mary’s parish, lately rebuilt magnificently
- by Sigismund Trafford, esq. who has likewise inclosed a considerable
- park with a brick wall; and Cressy hall in Surflet parish, the seat
- of Henry Heron, esq. in which the lady Margaret, mother to Hen. VII.
- was once entertained. The house was handsomely rebuilt by the present
- possessor’s father, Sir Henry Heron, knight of the Bath; but the chapel
- is old, built, or licensed at least, anno 1309, as an inscription over
- the door tells us. In it is an old brass eagle with an inscription
- round it.<a id="FNanchor_20" href="#Footnote_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a></p>
-
- <p>Formerly, there is reason to suppose, the gentry had many parks
- near their seats. Records in your possession show that the prior of
- Spalding, about 1265, compelled Thomas lord Moulton to compound with
- him for the venison in his park at Moulton; and in Holbech, about a
- mile south of the church, are lands in my tenure, called the Park. That
- fish and fowl is here plentiful, no one will wonder; but particularly
- the pigeons are noted for large and fine.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><i>Decoys.</i></div>
-
- <div class="sidenote">TAB. II.</div>
-
- <p>In the out-skirts of it are great numbers of decoys, places so called
- where they take an incredible quantity of wild ducks,<a id="FNanchor_21" href="#Footnote_21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a> mostly sent
- up to London: they are large pits dug in the fens, with five canals
- shooting from them, each ending in a point after one angle made, well
- planted with willows, fallows, osiers, and such underwood. I have given
- a drawing of one. The method of catching fowl in short is this: the
- decoy-man coming down to the angle of the pipe, or canal, which is
- covered with nets and over-shadowed with trees, peeps through the holes
- in the reedy sheds, disposed like the scenes at the play-house, and
- joined by the others with holes at the bottom, about as high as a man’s
- breast: when he sees a sufficient quantity of wild ducks in the mouth
- of the great pond, by whistling softly, the tame ducks wing-stocked,
- and brought up for that purpose, swim into the pipe covered with the
- nets, to feed upon the corn he throws over the sheds into the water:
- this tempts the wild ducks in to partake of the bait: in the mean time
- a dog they teach runs round the half-sheds, in and out at the holes in
- the bottom, which amuses the fowl so that they apprehend no danger:
- when he has brought them far enough into the pipe, stooping he goes
- along the scenes, till he is got beyond the ducks, and rising up shows
- himself at the half-scenes, <span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">19</span>which frightens the wild ducks only, the
- opposite way into the narrow end of the pipe, which terminates in a
- fatal net: and all this is done without any noise or knowledge of the
- rest of the wild ducks in the great pond; so that the decoy-man having
- dispatched one pipe, goes round to execute the same game at all the
- rest, whereby infinite quantities are catched in a year’s time at one
- of these places only.</p>
-
- <figure class="illowp100" id="i_018">
- <div class="plateno"><i>2</i></div>
- <div><i><b>The Form of the Decoys in Lincolnshire.</b></i></div>
- <div class="small right"><i>Richardo M. Masfey M.D.<br>tabulam d.d. Wˢ<span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span> Stukeley</i></div>
- <img src="images/i_018.jpg" alt="">
- </figure>
-
- <p>In running over what few remarkables I have observed in this country,
- I shall exclude Marsh-land, because in Norfolk, observing only that
- their churches are very beautiful, numerous, large, and stately; that
- here are, too, many such of the <em>tumuli</em>. You will indulge me the
- liberty of giving the etymology of places all along: Cicero likes that
- method; <cite>Acad. Quæst.</cite> 1. 8. <i lang="la">verborum explicatio probatur</i>,
- i. e. <i lang="la">qua de causa quæque essent ita nominata quam etymologiam
- appellabant</i>: and though there be often more of pleasant subtlety
- than reality in such matters, yet it serves to find out and preserve
- some old words in a language that otherwise are in danger of oblivion.
- <span class="sidenote"><i>The</i> <span class="smcap">Washes</span>.</span>
- I shall begin with the Washes so much talked of, and so terrible to
- strangers, though without much reason; if they take a guide, which
- is highly adviseable. The meaning is this: they are the mouths of
- the river Welland, called Fossdike Wash, and the river Ouse, called
- Cross-Keys Wash, running into the sea, and inclosing this country
- almost round. <em>Wase Sax. lutum, oose.</em> Twice in a day, six hours
- each time during the recess of the tide, they are fordable and easy
- to be passed over: the intermediate six hours they are covered with
- the flux of the ocean. Mr. Merret, of Boston, son to Dr. Merret, has
- given a table in the Philos. Trans. which I improved for the benefit
- of travellers, and is graven on a handsome copperplate by my friend,
- Mr. John Redman: but I would have passengers not to trust too far to
- the minutes in the table, because at some times of the year the tides
- will anticipate a few minutes, at others will be retarded, and at all
- times (not to say any thing of the difference of clocks and watches)
- south-east winds make the tides flow earlier than ordinary, north-west
- protract them; so that a wise traveller, in this and all other cases,
- will take time and tide by the forelock. Formerly people travelled what
- they call the Long Wash, between Lynn and Boston, intirely upon the
- sands or skirts of the ocean, but now quite disused and impracticable:
- there it was, that king John lost all his carriages among the creeks
- and quicksands. The memory of it is retained to this day, by the corner
- of a bank between Cross-Keys Wash and Lynn, called now King’s Corner.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Lutton.</div>
-
- <p>In Lutton was born the famous Dr. Busby, master of Westminster school,
- who has beautified the church, and founded a school there: he owes his
- education to the Welbys, an ancient family in this country. I suppose
- the town has its name from the general drainage of the country, which
- was here in one channel united: they call such Lades, or Lodes, to this
- day: this probably is as ancient as any town in Holland. South from
- it (and therefore)<span class="sidenote smcap">Sutton.</span> Sutton church is of an ancient make, especially
- the stone work of the steeple: the upper part of the church has been
- built of brick in the memory of man. John of Gaunt owned Sutton, and
- other vast manors and townships in this country. At Tyd St. Giles,
- Nicholas Breakspear was curate, who afterwards became pope Adrian IV.
- St. James’s chapel is built of a large sort of brick, such as I have
- seen no where else; not Roman.<span class="sidenote">TAB. XI.</span> Near it is Ivy-Cross, of stone, in a
- <i lang="la">quadrivium</i>; a curious piece, upon Ravensbank.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Gedney.</div>
-
- <p>Gedney church is very beautiful, built, I believe, chiefly by the
- abbots of Croyland, who had a house, no doubt, very stately, on the
- north side<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">20</span> of the church, and large possessions in the parish: the
- upper part of the tower is of the same date with the church, built
- upon older work; probably both the work of the abbots, together with
- contributions of the rich families that formerly lived here. In the
- chancel window a religious in his habit. There is an old monument of
- the Welbys, and upon the south door is this inscription:</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry" lang="la">
- <div class="stanza antiqua">
- <div class="i0">PAX XPISIT HUIC DOMUI</div>
- <div class="i0">ET OMNIBUS HABITANTIBUS</div>
- <div class="i0">IN EA HIC REQUIES NOSTRA.</div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">The town seems to be derived from <i lang="la">Gaden-ea, aqua ad viam</i>:
- <em>Ea</em> is a watering place properly for cattle, and roads we still
- call gates in this country.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Fleet.</div>
-
- <p>The next parish, Fleet, from the Anglo-Saxonic <em>Fleot</em>,
- <em>æstuarium</em>, <em>fluxus</em>, still called Fleet-Haven, is
- remarkable for the steeple standing at a distance from the church: from
- this place the family of the Fletes come, who have made a considerable
- figure in the country ever since we have any written memorials.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Holbech.</div>
-
- <p>Holbech (the Salt-Beech) church is very large, and well built, a
- strong tower and lofty steeple, dedicate to all saints: formerly there
- were organs and fine painted glass, with many coats of arms, but none
- left except the Holbeches: Vert, six escallops argent, three, two,
- one.<span class="sidenote">TAB. XXI.</span> There is a fine monument of the Littleburys, an ancient and
- flourishing family in these parts:<span class="sidenote">TAB. I. 2d Vol.</span> upon his shield is his coat, Argent,
- two lions passant gardant gules: there is a brass inscription of a
- lady of the Welby family, wife to Sir Richard Leake, knight. <span class="antiqua" lang="la">Orate
- pro anima Johanne Welby quondam filiae Richardi Leake militis nuper
- uxoris Littlebury que obiit xviii die mensis decembris anno domini
- mccclxxxviii. cujus anime propitietur deus Amen.</span> Here was born
- Henry Rands, alias de Holbech, bishop of Lincoln, who was one of the
- compilers of the Liturgy: here formerly flourished the ancient families
- of Fleet, Dacres, Harrington, Barrington, Welby, Multon.</p>
-
- <p>In the year 1696, in digging at Mr. Adlard Stukeley’s gardens, they
- found an old brass seal, which I gave to Sir Hans Sloan; a man in
- long robes, with two escutcheons, on one three cocks, on the other a
- portcullis; the legend, +<span class="allsmcap">SOVRABLA DEUS OLER</span>. In the year 1698,
- an iron spur with a very long shank was found: in my possession. A
- remarkable rarity in nature I met withal, an admirable ossification in
- the <em>omentum</em> of a sheep, white and solid as ivory. Mr. Cheselden
- has printed a cut of it in the second edition of his Anatomy. I gave it
- to Dr. Mead.</p>
-
- <p>From the ancient churchwardens’ accounts, before the time of the
- Reformation, from anno 1453, many curious remarks may be made, in
- relation to prices of things, wages, superstitious customs, old
- families, and the like: a specimen whereof I have here annexed.</p>
-
- <p class="hang2"><i>ss.&nbsp; A Boake of the Stuffe in the Cheyrche of</i> Holbeche
- <i>sowld by Chyrchewardyns of the same according to the injunctyons
- of the Kynges Magyste.</i></p>
-
- <table>
- <thead>
- <tr>
- <th>&nbsp;</th>
- <th><i>s.</i></th>
- <th><i>d.</i></th>
- </tr>
- </thead>
- <tbody>
- <tr>
- <td class="hang">An. dni. M. ccccc. xlvii<sup>o</sup>. First to Antony
- Heydon the trynite with the tabernacle</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>ii.</div></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>iiii.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="hang">It. to Wm. Calow thelder the tabernacle of Nicholas and Jamys</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>vi.</div></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div> viii.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="hang"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">21</span>It. to Wm. Davy on tabernacle of our lady of pytye</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>iiii.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="hang">It. to Wm. Calow the younger on other tabernacle of our lady</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>iii.</div></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>vi.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="hang">It. to Antony Heydon the ymage of the Antony</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>xx.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="hang">It. to Humphry Hornesey on sygne</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>vi.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="hang">It. to Antony Heydon on other synge and a lytyl tabernacle</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>xx.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="hang">It. to Wm. Calow the younger the tabernacle of Thomas Bekete</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>iiii.</div></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>viii.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="hang">It. to Wm. Davy the sygne whereon the plowghe did stond</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>xvi.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="hang">It. to John Thorpe a chyst in St. Jamys chapell</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>ii.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="hang">It. to Lincone howld woode</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>iiii.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="hang">It. to Nicholas Foster the banke that the George stoode on</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>iiii.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="hang">It. to Antony Heydon ij alters</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>ii.</div></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>viii.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="hang">It. to Wm. Stowe ij lytyll tabernacles</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>viii.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="hang">It. to Henry Elman on lytyll tabernacle</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>ii.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="hang">It. to John Thorpe for Harod’s coate</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>xviii.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="hang">It. to Wm. Calow the younger all thapostyls coats and other raggs</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>viii.</div></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>iiii.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="hang">It. to Henry Elman for vii baner clothes</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>ix.</div></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>iiii.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="hang">It. to Antony Heydon on blewe clothe</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>ix.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="hang">It. to Smithes on pece of howlde saye</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>iii.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="hang">It. to Richerd Richerson the crosse and other gydys</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>ii.</div></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>iii.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="hang">It. to Mr. Byllysby ij tablys</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>iiii.</div></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>iiii.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="hang">It. to Antony Heydon for the coats of the iij kyngs of Coloyne</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>v.</div></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>iiii.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="hang">It. to Humphry Hornesey the canypye that was born over the sacrament</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>xx.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="hang">It. to Wm. Calow thelder and John Thorpe iiij owlde pantyd clothes</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>vi.</div></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>viii.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="hang">It. to Antony Heydon on wood candlestyke</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>iiii.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="hang">It. to Wm. Calow the younger on lytyll bell</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>vi.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="hang">It. to Antony Heydon on other lytyll bell</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>vi.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="hang">It. to Wm. Davy for the tabernacles that stode at the end of the hy alter</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>viii.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- </tr>
- </tbody>
- </table>
-
- <table>
- <thead>
- <tr>
- <th>&nbsp;</th>
- <th><i>l.</i></th>
- <th><i>s.</i></th>
- <th><i>d.</i></th>
- </tr>
- </thead>
- <tbody>
- <tr>
- <td><i>Sm.</i></td>
- <td>iiii.</td>
- <td>ii.</td>
- <td>iiii.</td>
- </tr>
- </tbody>
- </table>
-
- <div class="center mt2"><i>A. D.</i> m. ccccc xlvii.</div>
-
- <table>
- <tbody>
- <tr>
- <td class="hang">It. to Wm. Calow the younger on rod of iyron</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>iiii.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="hang">It. to Robt. Gyffon for ij barrs of iyron</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>v.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="hang">It. to Antony Heydon xx score and x hund. of latyn at ii <i>s.</i> and xi <i>d.</i> the score</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>lxix.</div></td>
- <td class="tdr" style="width: 4em;"><div>xi. ob.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="hang">It. to Richerd Richerson ij lytyll tabernacles</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>viii.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="hang">It. of John Suger for the chyrche lond</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>ii.</div></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>viii.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="hang">It. of the burial of Mr. Byllysby</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>iii.</div></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>iiii.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="hang">It. of John Mays wyffe for the Dracon</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>iii.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="hang">It. of Alys Boyds debt to xps corpys gilde</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>ii.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="hang">It. for on bell<span style="margin-left: 65%;"><i>l.</i> xviii.</span></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>ii.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="hang">It. for seyten vestments and trashe in the chest in trinete quere sold to Davy</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>xxxiii.</div></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>iiii.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="hang">It. of Wm. Burnit for pilows</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>xvi.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="hang">It. of Wm. Calow the younger for eyrne</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>xx.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- </tr>
- </tbody>
- </table>
-
- <table>
- <thead>
- <tr>
- <th>&nbsp;</th>
- <th><i>l.</i></th>
- <th><i>s.</i></th>
- <th><i>d.</i></th>
- </tr>
- </thead>
- <tbody>
- <tr>
- <td><i>Sm. totalis</i></td>
- <td>xxviii.</td>
- <td>iiii.</td>
- <td>iiii. ob.</td>
- </tr>
- </tbody>
- </table>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_020_1">
- <div class="plateno"><i>21</i></div>
- <div><b>Ecclesiam de HOLBECH <i>in Agro</i> Linc. Lucio<br><i>Henrico</i>
- <i>Hibbins Arm. d.d. W. Stukeley</i> 1722</b></div>
- <img src="images/i_020_1.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>I. Harris sculp</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_020_2">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>1·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <div><b>Littlebury in Holbech Church</b></div>
- <img class="mt5" src="images/i_020_2.jpg" alt="">
- </figure>
-
- <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">22</span></p>
-
- <p>More superstitious ornaments of the church were sold in queen
- Elizabeth’s time, 1560.</p>
-
- <div class="center">From this book I extracted the following catalogue of the Ministers<br>
- of the parish.</div>
-
- <table>
- <tbody>
- <tr>
- <td>John Clerk chaplain.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>Anno</div></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>1450.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>John Risceby vicar.</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>1460.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Thomas George chaplain then.</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Robert Jelow.</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>1469.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>William Greyborn vicarius perpetuus.</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>1474.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Sir John Welby priest.</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Sir John Lyard perpetual vicar.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>obiit</div></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>1496.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td style="padding-left: 3.7em;">Baxter.</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>1508.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Ds. Neel capellanus.</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Richard Wytte.</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>1520.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Sir John Scapull.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>ob.</div></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>1524.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Sir Robert Manning.</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>1550.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Sir Thomas West.</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>1561.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Thomas Gybson precher.</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Othoneel Bradbury.</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>1600.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Matthew Clarke vicar of Holbech.</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>1610.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Henry Williamson.</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>1630.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>John Grante.</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>1633.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>John Bellenden.</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>1640.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>John Pymlowe.</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>1647.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>John Pymlowe.</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>1687.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>George Arnett.</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr" style="width: 4em;"><div>1720.<a id="FNanchor_22" href="#Footnote_22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- </tbody>
- </table>
-
- <p>In 1529, a new organ cost 3l. 6s. 8d. The organ in the church was
- taken down 1568. Anno 1453, Wm. Enot, of Lynn, epi. and Henry Nele of
- Holbech, gave the saints bell. Another guild of St. Thomas; another
- of our Lady. The vestry on the south side of the choir was taken
- down 1567. There was formerly a chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary
- at Holbech hurn, near the ancient seat of the Littleburys; standing
- 1515: another chapel thereabouts, dedicated to St. Nicholas: another
- in Wignal’s gate, near Holbech hall, by the river side, dedicated to
- St. Peter. About 1719, I saw many corpses dug up in the yard at making
- a ditch there. Another in the fen ends. An ancient guild of Corpus
- Christi stood near Barney pit, where is now a house once belonging to
- Moses Stukeley, who owned the estate thereof. An hospital founded by
- John de Kirkton, in his own messuage, by licence of king Ed. III dat.
- Nov. 16, for a warden, chaplain, and fifteen poor people: he endowed it
- with several lands in Holbech, which he held of the abbot of Croyland,
- who by licence permitted the same to be annexed to this hospital of All
- Saints in Holbech, for which he paid 20l. This stood, as I imagine,
- where now is the Chequer inn, over against the church. I remember the
- old stone-work arched doors and windows with mullions, pulled down
- when rebuilt by my father, and many of the carved stones were laid in
- the foundation of the houses he built by the river side at the bridge.
- See Dugdale’s <cite>Monasticon</cite>. A free-school was founded here, about
- 1669, by George Farmer, esq. who endowed it with lands, which with
- others since given are now worth about 50l. per annum; which I am bound
- in gratitude not to forget. A. D. 1699, there were belonging to the
- fifty-four bounds of this parish,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">23</span>
- paying rates, acres 6234; in the marsh, acres 6532; and since added
- for the last intake, acres 170. The old cross in the market-place was
- pulled down 1683. 1253, Thomas de Multon, lord Egremont, obtained
- a market and fair to<span class="sidenote">TAB II. 2d Vol.</span> Holbech, 31 Oct. 37 Hen. III. at Windsor, and
- probably built that cross.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp70" id="i_023">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>2·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <div class="large"><b><i>Holbech Cross Lincolnshire</i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_023.jpg" alt="">
- <div><i>Ob amorem erga Solum Natale, Temporum Ignorantia direptam restituit
- W<sup>s</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span> Stukeley 1722</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Whaplode.</div>
-
- <p>Quaplode, called anciently Capellade, i. e. <i lang="la">Capella ad Ladam s.
- fluvium</i>, has a very ancient church, founded by the abbots of
- Croyland: the tower stands on the south side. In the upper and south
- windows are these coats of arms. Barry of six azure and argent; Azure,
- a bend gules, charged with three roses argent; Argent, two lions
- passant gardant gules, <em>Littlebury</em>. In the east window of the
- north chapel, <em>Littlebury</em>, and Or, a fesse between two chevronels
- gules; and Sable, a fret argent, <em>Harrington</em>: Azure, on a bend
- gules, three roses argent, as before. I have a copy of the foundation
- of this church. Here is a large monument of the Irbys.</p>
-
- <div class="center large bold mt3"><span class="gesperrt2">GENEALOGY </span>of<span class="gesperrt2"> MOULTON</span>.</div>
-
- <figure class="illowp100" id="i_023a">
- <img src="images/i_023a.jpg" alt="Genealogy of Moulton">
- <div><a href="#t_023">See transcription</a></div>
- </figure>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Moulton.</div>
-
- <p>Moulton, or Multon, probably has its name from a mill, which anciently,
- perhaps, were not so common as now. There is a good church, and very
- fine spire; as also a good free-school of near 100l. per ann. value in
- lands.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">24</span> Moulton hall, whose last ruins I have seen, was the seat of
- Thomas de Multon, lord Egremont, a great man in these parts. His hand
- is among the barons at <cite>Magna Charta</cite>. Between these two parishes,
- in a green lane northwards, stands a little stone called Elho stone,
- whence the name of this hundred is derived: it is about the middle
- thereof, and was formerly the main road across the country, now called
- Old Spalding Gate. Old men tell us, here was kept in ancient times an
- annual court; I suppose a convention, <i lang="la">sub dio</i>, of the adjacent
- parts, to treat of their general affairs. A wood hard by is called
- Elhostone wood.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Weston.</div>
-
- <p>Weston, because west from the last town. Here is the stately chapel of
- Wykeham, the villa of the rich priors of Spalding, built by Clement de
- Hatfield, prior, who died anno 1318. In 1051, Spalding priory made by
- Thorold, sheriff of Lincoln, out of his own manor-house. Many places
- near the old sea-bank are called <em>hurns</em>, signifying an angle.
- Here is a little leam called the Wik: Mr. Camden, in <cite>Bucks</cite>,
- says it signifies the winding of a river, as Cowhurn hard by.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Spalding.</div>
-
- <p>Spalding has been famous for its ancient and rich priory founded before
- the Conquest, and for the residence of Ivo Tailbois, the lord of this
- country, by gift of William the Conqueror, the site of whose castle is
- on the north-east part of the town. The town-hall was built by William
- Hobson. But of this place we expect from you, sir, a more particular
- account.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Pynchbek.</div>
-
- <p>In Pynchbek church-windows are the arms of Ogle, of Fleet; Argent,
- on two bars sable, six escallops of the first, empaled with <em>De la
- Launde</em>. Pyncebeck seems to come from the Cimbrian <em>pinken</em>,
- <em>lucere</em>, from the clearness of its water.</p>
-
- <p>Many towns, on both sides Deeping Fen, end in <em>ington</em>,
- <em>ingham</em>, as lying upon the Mead. <span class="sidenote smcap">Donington.</span>Donington is very hilly, full of
- elevations or dunes. Thomas Cowley, esq. of Donington, who died about
- 1718, left all his estate, which was considerable, to the poor of every
- parish where it lay, whereof 400l. per ann. to Donington, where he
- built a school-house, and endowed it.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Algarkirk.</div>
-
- <p>Algarkirk has a fine church, in which are some water-bougets carved
- on the oak seats in escutcheons. They say here lived the famous count
- Algar,<a id="FNanchor_23" href="#Footnote_23" class="fnanchor">[23]</a> commander of the Holland men in many battles against the
- Danes, of whom they show an image in stone in the church-yard. I found
- there this inscription,</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza" lang="la">
- <div class="i0"><i>Sis testis Xpe, quod non jacet hic lapis iste</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Quisquis es si transeas sta perlege plora</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Corpus ut ornetur sit lapis ut memoretur.</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Sum quod eris fueramque quod es pro me precor ora.</i></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Wiberton.</div>
-
- <p>Wiberton, they say, has its name from Guibertus, a great man here
- formerly. There is a place called Multon hall, which belonged to the
- aforementioned Thomas de Multon. Here is likewise Titton hall: the
- chapel is now converted into a stable.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Frampton.</div>
-
- <p>Hard by is Frampton, probably from the Anglo-Saxonic <em>Faran</em>,
- <em>trajicere</em>: for here they passed over the river in a ferry,
- before Boston bridge was built; as at Framton, in Gloucestershire,
- upon the Severn, and Framilode passage. Farnton by Newark, where
- now is the ferry over the Trent. Gosberton, from <em>Gosbèrt</em>, or
- <em>Gosbright</em>, I suppose lord of the town before <span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">25</span>the Conquest.
- Fossdike seems to be <em>Fordsdike</em>, where we pass over the Washes.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Skirbeck.</div>
-
- <p>Skirebec doubtless has its name from the Saxon, <em>scire</em>, division,
- because here the river parts the hundreds. Here was an hospital of
- knights of St. John of Jerusalem, now intirely demolished, though the
- church was standing within memory of man. There was another religious
- house near the church: the remains of it is now the parsonage-house.
- Such names of towns as Fishtoft, Butterwick, Swineshead, Cowbyte, and
- the like, seem easy enough.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Sibsey.</div>
-
- <p>Sibsey church has very handsome pillars and circular arches, somewhat
- after the Roman mode. The top of the steeple is added upon the old
- work; perhaps from its watery situation; <em>sipan</em>, to steep.
- <span class="sidenote smcap">Leverton.</span>Leverton, <i lang="la">Leofrici oppidum</i>: he was a potent man thereabouts at
- the time of the Normans coming, and gave to the town much common: his
- deed of gift is now in possession of the reverend and worthy vicar, Mr.
- William Falkner, which I have seen.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Frieston.</div>
-
- <p>Frieston, a <em>frith</em>, <em>æstuarium</em>; so Ald Friston in Sussex,
- near Cuckmere haven. Here was an opulent monastery founded by Guy de
- Croun, whose genealogy I shall not think much to recite, because it
- relates to the antiquities of this country, and in some measure shows
- the reason of what my friend Mr. Becket, surgeon, much wondered at
- when he searched the old repository of wills at the Prerogative Office
- in London, where he observed more of this country than any other in
- England.</p>
-
- <h3 class="large">The&nbsp; &nbsp; <span class="gesperrt2">GENEALOGY</span></h3>
-
- <p class="hang">Of the <span class="smcap">Craons</span>, <em>Credon</em>, <em>Crodon</em>, <em>Croun</em>, the
- most illustrious family of Anjou, and one of the most illustrious
- in France, which came into England with William the Conqueror. The
- barony of Craon is the first and most considerable in Anjou: it is
- a small city in that province upon the river Oudon near Bretagne,
- encompassed with walls.<a id="FNanchor_24" href="#Footnote_24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a></p>
-
- <div class="center">A. D. 940.</div>
-
- <div class="figcenter illowp100" id="i_025">
- <img src="images/i_025.jpg" alt="Genealogy of the Craons">
- <span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">26</span><img src="images/i_026.jpg" alt="">
- <span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">27</span><img src="images/i_027.jpg" alt="">
- <span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">28</span><img src="images/i_028.jpg" alt="">
- <div><a href="#t_025">See transcription</a></div>
- </div>
-
- <p>The site of Roushall, where the barons Ros lived, is in the parish of Fishtoft.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Vainona.</div>
-
- <p>In Wainfleet church, the bishop of Winchester, whose name was Patten,
- founder of Magdalen college, Oxford, erected a marble monument for
- his father, where are his coats of arms in the windows. In the town<span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">29</span>
- he built a handsome chapel of brick, and endowed it with a pretty
- good revenue, to pray for his and his ancestors souls. Now it is
- made a free-school house. This place still retains its ancient name;
- for I am certain it is the Vainona mentioned by the famous author of
- <cite>Ravenna</cite>, who has happily preserved so many of our old British
- cities. The learned Mr. Baxter, in his Glossary of British Antiquities,
- with a sagacity peculiar to himself, has corrected this from Navione.
- The sea has added much ground to this place since the Roman times, and
- then their city stood higher up by the churches, which is a mile off
- the present town. The haven was near St. Thomas church, now called
- North-holm: it is still very deep thereabouts, and appears to have been
- broad, being a pretty good river, whilst the waters of the east fen
- ran through it, and kept it open: it was thirty foot wide a mile above
- the churches, as appears by the old cloughs there; for they had wisely
- contrived by that means to keep out the salt water and heighten the
- fresh, which no doubt would have preserved the haven to this day, had
- they not foolishly suffered the east-fen water to be carried to Boston.
- It is apparent the natural course of water here (as we before observed
- of other parts of the level) is eastward: the east fen is lower than
- the west fen. At Nordike bridge anciently were four arches: the edge of
- the piers which cut the water was westward; which shows that the water
- originally run eastward, and the whole level was drained that way,
- though now most currents run to Boston. The inhabitants have a constant
- tradition, that this was a great town; but when the haven was filled
- up, Boston became the sea-port: likewise they say there is a road
- across the east fen, called Salter’s road, which probably was the Roman
- road; and there are people now alive who knew such as had remembered
- it. Doubtless this was a place where the Romans made their salt of the
- sea water, to supply all this province; and it is not improbable that
- this road led to Banovallum, Lindum, &amp;c. Many salt hills are visible
- from Wainfleet to Friskney. The king is still lord of the soil of this
- old Roman city.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Burgh</span>, <i>a</i> Ro. <i>fort</i>.</div>
-
- <p>Three miles north, and as much from Skegness and the sea, is Burgh, a
- market-town, whose name drew my attention. I found it to be a Roman
- <em>castrum</em> to guard the sea-coasts, probably against the Saxon
- rovers: it is a piece of very high ground, partly natural, partly
- raised by Roman labour, overlooking the wide extended marshes, perhaps
- in those times covered with salt water, at least in spring tides. There
- are two artificial <em>tumuli</em>, one very high, called Cock-hill. In
- St. Mary’s church-yard, now demolished, Roman coins have been found. I
- saw a very fair and large Antoninus Pius in brass, cos. <span class="smcap">iiii</span>.
- in possession of Tho. Linny. In the yards and gardens about the town
- they frequently dig up bodies. St. Peter’s church is large and good.
- There appear no Roman ways, <em>vallum</em>, or ditch, to inclose the
- town, which is a sort of knoll, or rising ground.</p>
-
- <p>I was told of a Roman aqueduct of earth, found at Spilsby. In Halton
- church hard by is this inscription on a flat stone. + <span class="antiqua">SIRE WATER
- BER GIST ICY DE SA ALME DEUS EIT MERCI</span>. Another, a cross-legged
- knight: on his shield a lion rampant. At Hagnaby, a religious house
- founded by Agnes de Orreby. Well, by Ralf de Hauvile. Near Well, on a
- chalky heath, are three curious Celtic barrows contiguous and joined
- one into another, composed of chalk: the chalk in Lincolnshire by
- Alford answers to that in Norfolk. Tateshall collegiate church founded
- by Ralf Cromwell. Many <em>tumuli</em> hereabouts, as at Hagnaby and
- other places, but none so remarkable a curiosity as those by the broad
- road upon the descent of the high country, overlooking the vast level
- towards Boston.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">30</span> At Revesby, by the seat of Joseph Banks, esq; there
- is an oval inclosed with a broad ditch: the longest diameter, which
- is somewhat above 300 foot, is precisely east and west; the other a
- little above 100: the entrance to it is on the middle of the south
- side: within, at each end of the length, is a large <em>tumulus</em>
- 100 foot in diameter: they are equal in shape and similar positure, a
- large vacuum of 100 foot lying between: it is very regularly formed:
- the length of the oval ditch that incloses the two <em>tumuli</em> is
- equal to thrice the breadth: the <em>tumuli</em> are large and high:
- that rising on the north side, without the ditch, is of an odd figure,
- but similar. It seems to have been a place of sepulture; perhaps two
- British kings were there buried; and the height on the north side
- was the place whereon they sacrificed horses, or the like, to the
- <em>manes</em> of the deceased. Or is it a place of religious worship
- among the old Britons? and the two hills may possibly be the temples
- of the Sun and Moon. I am inclined to think it ancient, because of the
- measure: the breadth is equal to 100 Celtic feet, as I call them; the
- length to 300.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Banovallum.</div>
-
- <p>Horncastle was undoubtedly the Banovallum in <em>Ravennas</em>:
- the latter part of the word is Latin, so that it signifies the
- fortification upon the river Bane. <span class="sidenote">TAB. LXXXIX.</span>It is of a low situation, placed
- in the angle of the two brooks meeting here, the Bane and Waring;
- whence the modern name Horncastle, which signifies an angle, all this
- country over, as you know in your neighbouring Cow-hurn, Holbech-hurn,
- Guy-hurn, &amp;c. I will not venture to conceit it came from the ancient
- way of painting rivers horned, from their windings and turnings; of
- which we may find a hint in Burton’s Comment. on Antoninus’s Itinerary,
- pag. 56. and they that please may consult Bochart’s <cite>Phaleg</cite>, II.
- 22. where are many proofs of the ancients expressing an angle by the
- term <em>horn</em>. Skinner in his <cite>Etymologicon</cite> rightly affirms
- it comes from the Saxon word <em>hyrn</em>; and Ælfricus expounds it by
- the word <em>cornu</em>. It is probable the Romans were induced to make
- a station here at first from its convenient situation, easily rendered
- defensible by a <em>vallum</em> drawn across the aperture from one river
- to the other; and thence came the Roman name. Afterwards they built
- the indissoluble stone wall, whole <em>vestigia</em> are manifest the
- whole compass round, and in some places pretty high, as three or four
- yards, and four yards thick. It serves for sides of gardens, cellars,
- out-houses, &amp;c. as chance offers, inclosing the market-place, church,
- and good part of the town. It is a perfect parallelogram, composed of
- two squares: at the angles have been square towers, as they report:
- the gates were in the middle of three sides, and I suppose a postern
- into the meadows called the Holmes at the union of the two rivulets. I
- suspect originally the river Bane ran nearer to the wall in that part,
- and behind the manor-house: the garden there has been heightened, and
- the river pushed farther off, and turned with a larger bow to favour
- the people who live in Far-street, and especially the tanners, who
- are very numerous there: both rivers probably were wider and deeper
- than now, as the Celtic name of <em>Bane altus</em> intimates, which at
- present is conformable to reality lower down. Some do not scruple to
- affirm it was a sea-port, that is, navigable. The Waring arises but
- a mile or two off. The field across it south of the town is called
- the Thowng and Cagthorp, and probably was its <em>pomæria</em>, from
- the Saxon word <em>pang</em>, <em>campus</em>, <em>ager</em>. Here they
- find a great number of Roman coins. I saw a brass coin of Vespasian;
- reverse, an eagle, <span class="allsmcap">CONSECRATIO</span>; dug up from under the walls
- of Banovallum: Mr. Hograve of the place has it now: but Horncastle was
- not built in the time of Vespasian. I saw, in possession of Mr. Terry
- of Lincoln, a silver Vespasian found here; reverse, a sitting Genius
- with a sympulum in her<span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">31</span> hand, and <span class="allsmcap">DN. MA</span>. In 1734, a girl
- digging sand by the road side going from Les Yates to Horncastle, and
- near Horncastle, dug up an earthen urn full of Roman coins, rings, &amp;c.
- Mr. Terry collector gave me some of them. Near the walls upon digging
- cellars they sometimes find bodies buried. A rivulet called Temsford
- runs into the Bane. The school lands were given by private persons,
- and it was incorporated by queen Elizabeth: their seal is a castle and
- hunting-horn: and a horn is the brand for the town cattle upon the
- common. It is dubious whether Bowbridge has its name from the arch of
- the bridge, or from its being the entrance into the town from Lindum
- through the gate called formerly a Bow. This way is the maypole-hill,
- where probably stood an Hermes in Roman times. The boys annually keep
- up the festival of the <em>Floralia</em> on May day, making a procession
- to this hill with <em>May gads</em> (as they call them) in their hands:
- this is a white willow wand, the bark peeled off, tied round with
- cowslips, a <em>thyrsus</em> of the Bacchanals: at night they have a
- bonfire and other merriment; which is really a sacrifice, or religious
- festival. The king formerly had this whole town in his possession,
- until it was bestowed on the bishop of Carlisle. Near the conflux
- of the two brooks was lately a pleasant garden, and a place called
- Julian’s Bower, much talked of.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp68" id="i_030">
- <div class="plateno"><i>89</i></div>
- <div class="bold"><span class="smcap">Banovallum.</span><br><i class="small">Sept. 1. 1722.</i></div>
- <img src="images/i_030.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="bold">Josepho Banks <i>de Revesby Ar.</i> Romanorum hæc Vestigia d.d. W. Stukeley.</div>
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley. Del.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100" id="i_031">
- <div class="plateno"><i>19</i></div>
- <img src="images/i_031.jpg" alt="">
- <figcaption class="bold bbox" style="width: 20em;">
- <i>Amicissimo Henrico Pacey Ar.<br>
- Prospectum Bostoniæ Suæ d.d. W. Stukeley<br>
- Aug. 29. 1722.</i>
- </figcaption>
- </figure>
-
- <p><em>Leak</em> signifies a watery marshy place. <em>Wrangle</em> an
- <em>ab</em> A. S. <em>Wear lacus</em>, and <em>hangel arundo</em>,
- <i lang="la">lacus arundinibus obsita</i>? Return we to<span class="sidenote smcap">Boston.</span> Boston, <i lang="la">Fanum Sti.
- Botulphi</i>, the saint of sea-faring men. St. Botulf (the bishop)
- his body lay in St. Edmund’s monastery at Bury. Wm. Malmsb. p. 137.
- This seems to have been the last bounds northward of the <em>Iceni</em>
- in most antient times; therefore its old name was <em>Icanhoe</em>,
- or <i lang="la">Icenorum munimentum</i>, as Mr. Baxter interprets it in his
- Glossary. I guess the first monastery founded here was on the south
- of the present church; for I saw vast stone walls dug up there,
- and a plain leaden cross taken up; in my possession. Many were the
- religious houses here in superstitious times, whose lands were given
- to the corporation by Hen. VIII. as likewise the estate of the lord
- Hussey, beheaded then at Lincoln for rebellion: he lived in one of
- the houses where is a great square tower of brick, called now Hussey
- tower. There are many such in this country, as that now called Rochford
- and sometimes Richmond tower, which is very high. Queen Mary was a
- great benefactress to this corporation, and gave them lands called
- Erection-lands, to pay a vicar, a lecturer, and two school-masters:
- they have now a revenue of a thousand pounds per annum. In the
- parsonage-house is a scutcheon with a pastoral staff behind it thus: a
- fess charged with a fish and two annulets between three plates, each
- charged with a cross fitché. <span class="sidenote">TAB. XIX.</span>The church, I think, is the largest parish
- church (without cross ailes) in the world: it is a hundred foot wide
- and three hundred foot long within the walls: the roof is handsomely
- cieled with Irish oak supported by four and twenty tall and slender
- pillars: many remains of fine brasses in the church, none so perfect
- as this in the south aile. Under the figures of the man and woman this
- inscription,</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza antiqua medium" lang="la">
- <div class="i0">Ecce sub hoc lapide henricus Mete sistit humatus</div>
- <div class="i0">vi mortis rapida generosus semper vocitatus</div>
- <div class="i0">hic quisquis veneris ipsum precibus memoraris.</div>
- <div class="i0">sponsam defunctam simul aliciam sibi junctam</div>
- <div class="i0">anno mil C quater quadragenoque deno</div>
- <div class="i0">marcia quarto dies, extat ei Requies.</div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">The tower is the highest (100 yards) and noblest in Europe, flattering
- a weary traveller with its astonishing aspect even at ten miles
- distance. It is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">32</span> easily seen forty mile round this level country, and
- farther by sea: the lantern at top is very beautiful, and the thinness
- of the stone-work is admirable. There was a prodigious clock-bell,
- which could be heard six or seven miles round, with many old verses
- round it: about the year 1710 they knocked it in pieces, without taking
- the inscription. Twenty yards from the foundation of this tower runs
- the rapid Witham, through a bridge of wood. On the south side of the
- church-yard was, some few years ago, a curious monument<a id="FNanchor_25" href="#Footnote_25" class="fnanchor">[25]</a> (as they
- say) of one of the builders of the church, in stone, of arched work,
- but now intirely demolished; and in the market place in my memory was
- an old and large cross, with a vault underneath, <span class="sidenote">TAB. III. 2d vol.</span>steps all around
- it, and at top a stone pyramid of thirty foot high, but at this time
- quite destroyed. I found here an old brass seal of William Chetwynd,
- with his coat of arms, A fesse lozengé between three mullets, which I
- gave to the honourable gentleman of that name. Several frieries here,
- black, white and grey; of which little remains. Oliver Cromwell, then a
- colonel, lay in Boston the night before he fought the battle of Winceby
- near Horncastle, Oct. 5. 1643. In North Holland they have a custom of
- pulling geese twice a year; which has not escaped Pliny’s notice, X.
- 22. There is nothing left of the adjacent Swineshed abbey, founded by
- Rob. Greisly, but a yew-tree and a knightly tomb fixed in the wall
- of the new house. Here king John sickened in his journey to Sleeford
- castle and Newark castle, where he died.</p>
-
- <p>East of Boston was a chapel called Hiptoft, and in the town a church
- dedicated to St. John, but demolished. Here was a staple for wool and
- several other commodities, and a vast foreign trade: the hall was
- pulled down in my time. The great hall of St. Mary’s Guild is now
- the place of meeting for the corporation and sessions, &amp;c. Here was
- born the learned John Fox the martyrologist. Queen Elizabeth gave the
- corporation a court of admiralty all over the sea-coast hereabouts.</p>
-
- <p>Abundance of rare sea-plants grow near this coast: many species of
- sea-<em>wormwoods</em>, <em>scurvy-grass</em>, <em>crithmum marinum</em>,
- <em>atriplex marinum</em>, <i>&amp;c.</i> of which we may expect a good
- account from Dr. Blair of Boston; as also of many rare fishes caught
- hereabouts, <em>Raja</em>, <em>needle-fish</em>, <em>star-fish</em>, &amp;c. and
- of the <em>stickle-back</em> oil is made in very large quantities, the
- invention of the <cite>Ichtyophagi</cite>, Pliny XV. 7. <i lang="la">Carum vulgare</i>,
- Caraway, grows plentifully in the pastures all about Boston.
- <i lang="la">Sambucus foliis variegatis baccis albis</i>, Elder-tree with gilded
- leaves and white berries, in Boston Fen-ends: a gilded <em>ivy</em> in
- Mr. Pacey’s garden. <i lang="la">Apium palustre Italicum</i>, Selery <i lang="la">vulgo
- dictum</i>, in all the ditches of Holland. <i lang="la">Paronychia folio
- rutaceo</i>, Rue-leaved whitlow-grass, on the north side of walls and
- houses. A <em>barberry-tree</em> without stones, in Alderchurch parish.
- <i>Asparagus sylvestris</i>, wild asparagus, in Gorham wood, Whaplode.
- Many rare plants in the east fen, such as <i>stratiotes azoides</i>,
- fresh water fengreen. In the boggy grounds about Tattersall,
- <i>Trifolium palustre</i>, <em>ros solis</em>, <em>virga aurea</em>,
- <em>myrtus brabantica</em>, <em>pinguicula</em>, <em>asphodelus</em>,
- <em>adianthum aureum</em>. In the park, <em>androsæmum</em>, <em>tutsan</em>:
- in the ditches hard by, <em>valeriana sylvestris</em>: in the heaths,
- many sorts of <em>erica</em>: <em>solanum lethale</em> about Cowhurn.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Kirton.</div>
-
- <p>Pass we from Boston by Kirkton, famous for apples, denominated from its
- fair church built by Alexander, that magnificent bishop of Lincoln,
- after the manner of a cathedral with a transept. It has a handsome
- tower standing upon four pillars in the middle of the cross, with a
- noble ring of five large bells. I observe, this building is set upon
- the ruins of a former <span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">33</span>church, part whereof is visible at the
- west end: and in most of the churches in this country the same may be
- discovered, from the different manner of the architecture; the most
- ancient having small windows arched semicircularly; what is additional,
- to be known by the pointed Gothic arches. This church is very neat both
- within and without: upon the font is this inscription:</p>
-
- <div class="center">+ <span class="antiqua" lang="la">Orate pro anima alani burton qui fontem istum fieri fec. a. d.
- mccccii.</span></div>
-
- <p class="noindent">Against the north wall is the monument of a person in armour, and round
- it this inscription,</p>
-
- <div class="center">+ <span class="antiqua" lang="la">Orate pro anima Iohannis de Meres.</span></div>
-
- <p class="noindent">The family of the Meres has flourished much hereabouts.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>3·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <div class="bold"><i>Boston Cross</i></div>
- <img src="images/i_032.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>I Harris Sculp</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>4·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <div class="bold"><i>The Remains of Crowland Abby. 14. July. 1724.</i></div>
- <img src="images/i_033.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley del</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>I Harris Sculp</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <p class="clear">Upon the edge of Lincolnshire, in the middle of a vast fenny level,
- <span class="sidenote smcap">Crowland.</span>Crowland is situate, memorable for its early religion and the ruins
- of an opulent monastery, which still makes a considerable prospect.
- The abbey presents a majestic view of ruins; founded a thousand years
- ago, by Athelbald king of the Mercians, in a horrid silence of bogs
- and thorns;<span class="sidenote">TAB. IV.</span> made eminent for the holy retirement of his chaplain
- Guthlac, who changed the gaieties of the court for the severities of
- an anchorite. The king endowed it with a profuse hand, and all the
- land for several miles round the church belonged to it. The foundation
- is laid on piles of wood drove into the ground with gravel and sand,
- and they have found several of them in tearing up the ruins of the
- eastern part of the church; for what remains now is only part of the
- west end; and of that only one corner in tolerable repair, which is
- their parish-church at present. It is not difficult at this time to
- distinguish part of the very first building of this church, from that
- which was built by Ingulphus.<a id="FNanchor_26" href="#Footnote_26" class="fnanchor">[26]</a> In the middle of the cross stood once
- a lofty tower and a remarkably fine ring of bells, of which there is a
- proverb in this country still remaining: one prodigiously great bell
- was sacred to Guthlac: they are said to have been the first peal of
- bells in the county, perhaps England.<a id="FNanchor_27" href="#Footnote_27" class="fnanchor">[27]</a> From the foundation of this
- tower to the west end, is somewhat left, but only the walls, pillars,
- with passages or galleries at top, and stair-cases at the corners. The
- roof, which was of Irish oak finely carved and gilt, fell down about
- twenty years ago: you see pieces of it in every house. The pavement is
- covered with shrubs for brass inscriptions, and people now at pleasure
- dig up the monumental stones, and divide the holy shipwreck for their
- private uses; so that, instead of one, most of the houses in the town
- are become religious. The painted glass was broke by the soldiers in
- the rebellion, for they made a garrison of the place. All the eastern
- part of the body of the church is intirely razed to the foundation;
- and the ashes as well as tombs of an infinite number of illustrious
- personages, kings, abbots, lords, knights, &amp;c. there hoping for repose,
- are dispersed, to the irreparable damage of English history. The great
- Waltheof, earl of Northumberland and Huntingdon, was one of the saints
- here: he was beheaded by the Norman conqueror. The monastic buildings,
- cloysters, hall, abbot’s lodgings,<a id="FNanchor_28" href="#Footnote_28" class="fnanchor">[28]</a> and the like, which <span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">34</span>no doubt
- were very fine, are absolutely demolished; no trace thereof left,
- whereby their extent might be guessed at. In the north-west corner
- of the church stands a strong tower with a very obtuse spire, and a
- pleasant ring of small bells. Over the west gate are the images of
- divers kings, abbots, &amp;c. among the rest St. Guthlac with a whip and
- knife, as always painted: they were cut in a soft kind of stone, and
- drawn over in oil colour with gilding.</p>
-
- <p>Not far off the abbey eastward, upon a hillock, is the remnant of a
- little stone cottage, called Anchor Church-house: here was a chapel
- over the place where St. Guthlac lived a hermit, and where he was
- buried.<a id="FNanchor_29" href="#Footnote_29" class="fnanchor">[29]</a> Over-against the
- <span class="sidenote">TAB. VII.</span>west end of the abbey is the famous
- triangular bridge: it is too steep to be commonly rode over; horses and
- carriages go under it: it is formed upon three segments of a circle
- meeting in one point; they say each base stands in a different county.
- The rivers Nyne and Welland here meet. On one side sits an image of
- king Athelbald with a globe in his hand. St. Guthlake’s cross, between
- Spalding and Crowland, near Brother-house and Cloot-bar, stands upon
- the side of the bank, almost buried under earth: it is a boundary of
- the church lands: <span class="sidenote">TAB. XI.</span>of great antiquity.<a id="FNanchor_30" href="#Footnote_30" class="fnanchor">[30]</a></p>
-
- <div class="chapter">
- <hr class="full thick">
- <hr class="full mt0">
- <h2 class="nobreak" id="ITER_OXONIENSE"><span class="gesperrt2">ITER OXONIENSE</span>.&nbsp; &nbsp; II.</h2>
- </div>
-
- <hr class="full">
- <div class="center" lang="la"><b><i>Sed prior hæc hominis cura est cognoscere terram.</i>
- <span class="smcap" style="float: right;">Virg.</span></b></div>
- <hr class="full">
-
- <div class="center bold mt3 lh1"><i>To Mr.</i> <span class="gesperrt">JOHN HARDY</span> <i>of</i> Nottingham.</div>
-
- <p class="drop-cap">IT is commonly remarked, that impressions of any sort made upon
- youthful minds last long; and, like a cut in the bark of tender sprigs,
- grow deeper and more apparent with advancing years.</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza" lang="la">
- <div class="i0"><i>Crescent illæ crescetis amores.</i> <span class="smcap fright">Virg.</span></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p>The many hours I have spent with you when I first began to cast my eyes
- upon the scenes of the world, and consider things about me, recur to my
- mind with pleasure. I should be ungrateful then, (to which my temper
- is most abhorrent) and I should deny myself a particular satisfaction,
- did I not acknowledge the remembrance of a friendship now mature:
- therefore to you I offer the earliest fruits of it, this small account
- of the first pleasurable journey I can reckon to myself, where I had
- opportunity for satisfying my growing curiosity. It is no wonder that
- your learning, your taste of antiquities, and all endearing qualities,
- made me fond of cultivating your acquaintance; and perhaps to you in
- great measure do I owe what may not be discommendable in amusements of
- the following kind, since <span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">35</span>our converse and our journeying sometimes
- together, to visit the remains of venerable antiquity, in my first
- years, gave me the love and incitement to such pursuits. I am not
- concerned to make an excuse for the meanness of this present: were
- it not juvenile, it would not be genuine. As when first with you, so
- since it has been my method, to put into writing what little remarks I
- made in travelling: at length I had collected so much, that with some
- drawings of places and things taken at the same time, it was judged not
- unworthy of publication: my consent was grounded upon hopes that by
- this means I might give some account of every part of my time, and that
- my own pleasures might not be altogether unuseful; especially thinking
- it was no hard task to equal somewhat of this sort lately done, and
- well received of the public. It is to be wished this branch of learning
- should revive among us, which has lain dormant since the great Camden;
- so that either in discoursing on it, or journeying, we might find some
- entertainment worthy of men of letters.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb2" id="i_034">
- <div class="plateno"><i>7</i></div>
- <div class="bold"><i>Croyland Bridge Lincolnshire.</i></div>
- <img src="images/i_034.jpg" alt="">
- <figcaption class="small"><i>W. Stukeley f. 1721. &amp; Jonathan Sisson Mathematico, Conterraneo suo
- ut Amicitice pignus offert.</i></figcaption>
- </figure>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Stanford.</div>
-
- <p>Passing the fenny counterscarps of Holland, we begin our journey at
- Stanford, which stands in a mild air and pleasant country abounding
- with noblemen’s seats. Many religious houses have been at Stanford,
- and once a college founded there, of which they boast much; but of
- all these things we expect shortly an exact and full account from the
- reverend Mr. Peck. About 1708, a brass seal was dug up, in the castle
- at Stanford, of Thomas bishop of Elphin in Ireland; in possession
- of Ralf Madyson, esq. Burghley, the earl of Exeter’s, is worth a
- traveller’s view: the rooms are finely painted by Seignior Varrio:
- abundance of curious pictures from Italy, collected by my lord’s
- grandfather. At St. Martin’s church are the monuments of that noble
- family.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Foderinghay.</div>
-
- <p>Through a pleasant and woody country, we went to Foderinghay castle,
- situate on a branch of the river Nyne, overlooking the adjacent country
- and wide-extended meadows. The castle seems to have been very strong:
- there was a high mount, or keep, environed with a deep ditch: the
- space around it is guarded by a wall, double ditch, and the river: it
- is mostly demolished, and all the materials carried off. They pretend
- to show the ruins of the hall where Mary queen of Scots was beheaded.
- Some say king James I. ordered this fortress to be destroyed out of
- indignation: it was the seat of Edmund of Langley, duke of York,
- buried in the collegiate church here, a very neat building, founded by
- Edward duke of York, and here likewise interred: their monuments in
- the chancel (which was intirely demolished at the suppression) were
- restored by queen Elizabeth: the windows of the church are filled with
- very handsome painted glass, representing the images of cardinals,
- arch-bishops, abbots, &amp;c. such as St. Denis with his head in his hand,
- St. Guthlac of Croyland, Richard Scrope arch-bishop of Canterbury, &amp;c.
- these were saved in the late civil war, by the then minister of the
- parish, with a little money given to the soldiers that came to execute
- the harmless saints. We met with these uncouth verses upon the wall,
- showing the poetry of those times:</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza" lang="la">
- <div class="i0"><i>In festo Martyrii processus Martiniani,</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Ecclesiæ prima fuit hujus petra locata,</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Anno Christi primum centum ac mille</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Cum deca quinta H. V. tunc imminente 2<sup>da.</sup></i></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">On the north side of the church are the remains of the college, and the
- meadow under it retains its name: the steeple has an octagonal tower
- at the top, somewhat like that of Boston; at the bases of which are
- the images<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">36</span> of bears and ragged staffs, cognisances (I suppose) of the
- founders; as the falcon and fetterlock often painted in the glass. They
- have a very ancient MS. book here, of the affairs of the parish. There
- is a school in the town, erected by Hen. VII. worth about 30l. per
- ann. over the door is wrote, <i lang="la">Disce aut discede</i>. A stone bridge
- over the river was built by queen Elizabeth anno 1555. shown by an
- inscription on the wall, a monument of the spite of the soldiers, who
- cut out with their swords, as they passed by, one line of it, <em>God
- save the queen</em>.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Oundale.</div>
-
- <p>Oundale, or Avondale, is remarkable for a drumming well, much talked
- of by the superstitious vulgar: no doubt it is owing to the passage of
- the water, and air upon certain conditions, through the subterraneous
- chinks; for, as Virgil says, in his fine poem called <cite>Ætna</cite>,</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza" lang="la">
- <div class="i0"><i>Secta est omnis humus penitusque cavata latebris, &amp;c.</i></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">and that it is done by intervals or pulses as it were, is but
- consentaneous to many of Nature’s operations. Here are two long
- bridges of stone. Louick church, on the side of a hill, is very fine,
- founded by John de Drayton, anno 1125: the windows are full of coats
- of arms. There is a picture of the founder in armour, on his knees,
- presenting his church to God: here is his monument, of the Veres too,
- and Staffords earls of Wiltshire, and others who intermarried with his
- family: there is a modern one of the late Dutchess of Norfolk, who was
- married, after her divorcement, to the present owner of the family
- seat, called Drayton house, Sir John Germayn, who has for the most part
- new-built it.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Boughton.</div>
-
- <p>From hence we went to Boughton, the seat of the duke of Montagu,
- magnificent for building, painting and gardens: the stables are large
- and stately, well calculated for the designed grandeur of the house;
- for it is not yet finished: the hall is a very noble room: on the
- cieling is a convocation of the gods admirably painted, as are many
- suites of rooms and apartments, stair-cases, galleries, &amp;c. beside
- the great numbers of portraits and other curious pictures, part of
- the furniture: the gardens contain fourscore and ten acres of ground,
- adorned with statues, flower-pots, urns of marble and metal, many very
- large basons, with variety of fountains playing, aviaries, reservoirs,
- fish-ponds, canals, admirable greens, wildernesses, terraces, &amp;c. the
- cascade is very fine: a whole river, running through the length of the
- gardens, is diversified very agreeably to complete its beauty.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Geddington.</div>
-
- <p>A mile off is Geddington, where in a <em>trivium</em> stands one of
- the stone crosses<a id="FNanchor_31" href="#Footnote_31" class="fnanchor">[31]</a> built by king Edward I. in memory of his queen
- Eleanor, who died at Hareby near Bolingbroke, in Lincolnshire, 1291.
- It is formed upon a triangular model, of pretty Gothic architecture
- to suit its station. Her bowels were buried by the high altar in
- the Lady’s chapel of Lincoln minster; and in her journey thence to
- Westminster, where ever her herse rested, the king erected one of these
- magnificent crosses, as a monument of his great love: upon them are
- the arms of England, Castile, Leon and Poictou. These are the places,
- as far as I am at present informed, Lincoln, Grantham, Stamford,<a id="FNanchor_32" href="#Footnote_32" class="fnanchor">[32]</a>
- Geddington, Northampton, Stony Stratford, <span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">37</span>Dunstable, St. Alban’s,
- Waltham, Cheapside over against Wood-street, Charing-cross. Near this
- place is Boughton, having a petrifying spring, which forms itself a
- canal of stone as it runs, consolidating the twigs, moss, and all
- adventitious bodies. We saw near the road a spring-head, with a statue
- of Moses in the middle of the water, belonging to Boughton house.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp63 mb3" id="i_037">
- <div class="plateno"><i>12</i></div>
- <div class="bold"><i>The West View of</i> Waltham Cross <i>11 Jul. 1721.</i></div>
- <img src="images/i_037.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="bold small"><i>Petro Le Neve Ar.<br>Norroy. tab. d.d.<br>W<sup>s</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.4em;">.</span> Stukeley</i></div>
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>J. Harris Sculp.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <p class="clear"><span class="sidenote smcap">Eltabona.</span>Through Kettering we went to Northampton, the most elegant town
- in England: which, being wholly burnt down, is rebuilt with great
- regularity and beauty. There is a spacious square market-place, a fine
- assize-house of Corinthian architecture. Allhallow’s church is built
- after a pretty model, with a cupola and a noble portico before it of
- eight lofty Ionic columns: upon the balustrade a statue of king Charles
- II. There is an inscription of John Bailes, aged above 126: his sight,
- hearing and memory, intire; buried 1706. One of the old churches, St.
- Sepulchre’s, seems to have belonged to the Knights Hospitalers of St.
- John of Jerusalem, of a circular form: there has been another tacked to
- it of later date, with a choir and steeple, as to that at Cambridge of
- the same name and figure: another such I am told is at Guildford, which
- are all of this sort that I know of in England. I suspect these are
- the most ancient churches in England, and probably built in the later
- times of the Romans for Christian service, at least in the early Saxon
- reigns. Westward are the ruins of the castle, by the river side, built
- by Simon Silvanect I. earl of Northampton, who founded here likewise
- St. Andrew’s abbey: his son Simon Silvanect II. earl of Northampton
- and Huntingdon, founded St. Mary de Près abbey here about 1150. This
- probably is a Roman town arising from one of the forts built upon this
- river, as that great people proceeded northward in the conquest of the
- island; and being mentioned by Ravennas between Leicester and Stoney
- Stratford, it is very likely the Eltabona there, meaning <em>ael</em>,
- <em>supercilium</em>, and Avon, the river. Roman coins have been found
- on the other side the river: there are likewise the footsteps of the
- fortifications round the town, thrown up with bastions in the time of
- the civil wars. Under those on the south side, descending into a stone
- quarry which has abundance of intricate turnings, I saw a piece of oak
- wood, as big as both one’s hands, lie between the <em>strata</em> of
- solid stone: though petrified, the ligneous fibres when split would
- burn in a candle. I suppose it to have been lodged there in the deluge.
- A little way from the town, about Sprotton, are the pits where they dig
- up tobacco-pipe clay. Near Billing, about three miles from Northampton,
- not far from the earl of Twomond’s seat, was lately found a mine of
- copper, and coal, and marble, as they told me.</p>
-
- <p>From Northampton, over the river, by a large stone bridge where is an
- old religious house, half a mile off in the London road, is another of
- queen Eleanor’s stone crosses, called Queen’s cross, with her images
- and arms. It stands on a hill in the open country upon eight steps, in
- form much like that of Waltham, of which I have given a print.<span class="sidenote">TAB. XII.</span> On the
- other side of the town, about three miles distance, is Holdenby house,
- <span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">38</span>which lies in noble ruins: here king Charles I. was kept prisoner.
- A little way off is Naseby,<a id="FNanchor_33" href="#Footnote_33" class="fnanchor">[33]</a> where the bloody and fatal battle
- happened between his forces and those of the parliament, upon a fine
- plain where at present stands a windmill: the marks of several great
- holes appear, where the slain were buried. This town, as near as may
- be, is the navel of England. Near is<span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Guildsborough.</span> Roman <i>Camp</i>.</span>
- Guildsborough, so named from a
- Roman camp of a square form, and deep ditch, called the Burrows. I
- was told of several more thereabouts, which I suppose those made in
- the time of Ostorius about the heads of the rivers here; which all
- together made a sort of fortification between the north and south parts
- of the kingdom, especially between the Avon and Severn. A long barrow
- at Pesford, called Longman’s hill. We saw Althorp, a curious seat of
- the earl of Sunderland’s, elegantly furnished: there is a fine gallery
- adorned with good pictures, and a noble library.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Eston.</div>
-
- <p>My lord Lemster’s seat, now earl of Pomfret, near Towcester, is
- a stately building, and stands pleasantly, encompassed with good
- plantations of wood, visto’s and agreeable prospects. In the grand view
- to the back front, beyond the garden, is a large and long canal: in the
- house are several curious pictures; an original, of Sir Paul Ricot; of
- a pillar of Persepolis, one of those sixty foot high; Perseus loosing
- Andromeda, by Gioseppi Cari; a copy of Galatea, from Raphael: but what
- highly inhances the glory of this seat, is the vast number of Roman
- and Greek marbles, statues, busto’s, bas reliefs, &amp;c. part of the most
- noble collection of the great earl of Arundel. My lord has it in his
- thoughts to build a large room, or gallery, to receive this invaluable
- treasure; at present they are for the most part exposed to the weather
- in the garden. I shall cursorily name them all with the haste of a
- traveller, though each single piece merits a serious view, and a long
- description.</p>
-
- <p>At the end of the side terrace in the garden, and near the house,
- stands an intire column of marble in two pieces, fluted, taken from
- among the ruins of the temple of Apollo at the isle of Delos, where
- many now lie: this is set upon a proper base and pedestal made
- purposely for it: the capital is unusual, but very beautiful, and
- seems perfectly to answer that description which Vitruvius gives
- us, IV. 1. of the origin of the Corinthian capital from the conceit
- of Callimachus, who was pleased with the appearance of a basket
- covered with a tile, and luckily set upon the middle of a root of
- <em>acanthus</em>, or <em>brank ursin</em>, which shot up its curled leaves
- around it in a delicate and tender manner: upon it stands a statue,
- the upper part naked. In the niches of that wall along the walk are
- several broken statues of goddesses, naked or in fine drapery, where
- the mind is divided between the pleasure of seeing what remains and
- the grief for what is lost. Upon the stairs that descend into the
- garden are a great many whole and broken statues, pieces of <em>basso
- relievo</em>, altars, urns, tombs, &amp;c. such as the destruction of Troy,
- represented in the Trojan horse, the merriment of the Trojans, the
- slaughter of Priamus, Achilles driving his chariot with Hector tied
- to it: there is another bas-relief of a battle; a figure recumbent at
- dinner; two figures in procession, but covered over with moss; four
- figures, two with Phrygian bonnets; good pieces of cornice-work, with
- mouldings of ovolo’s, bead-moulds, &amp;c. a tomb, the husband and wife
- with the son between; a piece of Bacchanalians; the end of a tomb, or
- vase; a mask and revelling figures; an horseman and footman engaging.
- <span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">39</span>Most of these antiquities seem of the highest Greek times. Before the
- steps upon pedestals are two Egyptian <em>sphynges</em> mitred, and two
- Muses sitting: other things thereabouts are a sea-horse in basso; a man
- carrying another; a capital of a pillar made of a horse’s head, with
- branches coming out of his mouth like them at Persepolis, a dog’s head
- on one angle, and lions on the other: upon it are busts and heads: over
- that is a portal of a monumental stone, with a woman and two children,
- the tomb of some player, with fine bassos of masks, the busto of the
- deceased; four Genii; two lions devouring horses, finely cut: over it
- a priestess by the side of a temple: eight round altars or pedestals
- adorned with bulls heads, festoons, &amp;c. which stand upon the piers of
- the stairs: upon and about them are other antiquities, such as the
- bottom part of Scylla; three monsters like dogs devouring three men; a
- receiver for an urn. Cupid asleep lies upon this.</p>
-
- <p>On the north side the front of the house, a tomb; another capital of
- a horse’s head, &amp;c. over it a basso of Venus riding on a sea-horse, a
- Cupid driving; a lion over it; two Cupids, <em>alto relievo</em>: some
- busts over the windows; a young Nero, Faunus, &amp;c.</p>
-
- <p>At the south end of the house, on the ground, an old headless statue;
- upon the basement, a tomb of a boy wrought in channel-work, his busto
- in basso upon it: over the windows a small statue; a woman with a child
- in her arms; a tomb; another capital from the temple of Apollo at
- Delos; a Greek mask.</p>
-
- <p>Next let us descend into the garden along the middle walk. In the
- parterres about the fountain stand four Greek statues very intire,
- bigger than the life, of most admirable art: they are dressed in
- matron-like robes, or outer garments, in most comely folds, yet cut
- so exquisitely, that the folds of the inner drapery appear, and the
- whole shape of the body, as if transparent: they cannot be sufficiently
- commended. Between them and the house on the south side, is that
- celebrated statue of Cicero intire, with his <em>sudarium</em> in his
- right, and a scroll in his left hand: the sight of the eyes is cut
- hollow. I could not possibly excuse my self half a quarter of an hour’s
- serious view of this master-piece, frequently going round it: where so
- much seeming simplicity of the carver, has called forth all the fire
- of that divine genius that could make statues hear, as this artist has
- made them speak, and left an eternal monument of contention between
- him and the great orator: it grieved me to think it should stand a
- day longer in the open air. Answering to this on the left, is another
- statue of more robust shape and workmanship: his left hand holds a
- scroll, his right is laid in a passionate manner upon his breast: if
- sinewy muscles denote one that worked on the anvil, it may possibly
- be Demosthenes. The two next that correspond beyond the fountain, are
- Scipio Africanus and Asiaticus, in an heroic dress. Beyond, on each
- side the steps going down to the lower garden, are two <em>colossi</em>,
- Fabius Maximus the cunctator, and Archimides with a square in his
- hand. At each end of this cross-walk, or terrace, which terminates the
- middle or principal one, is built a handsome stone-work with niches
- and pediment supported with pilasters, contrived on purpose to receive
- other pieces: in that on the left hand, or north side, is the tomb
- of the famous Germanicus, adorned with carving of bas-relief: upon
- it two admirable busts of him and Agrippina his wife. Between these
- upon the tomb stands an altar-like pedestal with a small and ancient
- statue of Jupiter sitting. In the pediment over the arch is a curious
- piece of marble, whereon is raised the upper part of a man with his
- arms and hands extended, and the impression likewise of a foot: this
- I suppose the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">40</span> original standard of the Greek measure. Upon the
- <em>apex</em> of the pediment is a fine statue of Apollo with the right
- arm naked, the other covered with a mantle: below the hips it ends in
- a <em>terminus</em>; so that it is an <em>Hermapollon</em>. In two niches
- here, are two large and curious trunks, as fine as the loquacious
- Pasquin or Marforio at Rome. Upon the two outermost pilasters are
- two other beautiful trunks. At the corner of this terrace is an
- altar. At the other end of this cross walk, under the stone-work is a
- marble chair with an inscription on the back of it, denoting that it
- belonged to the high-priest of Isis, as said; for it is obliterated:
- it is remarkably easy to sit on: the sides are embossed with winged
- <em>sphynges</em>. On each side of it are two sitting fragments. Upon
- the top of this stone-work is a very large and curious Greek statue of
- Pallas, coloss proportion, naked arms, a plumed helmet on her head, the
- Gorgonian <em>Ægis</em> on her breast: the very marble is not without its
- terror.</p>
-
- <p>We shall now pass through the house. The hall is a fine lofty room:
- in the niches are several statues; a Greek lady with her arms folded
- under the drapery, which with that of the under garment are perfectly
- seen through the robe; Caius Marius in a senatorial habit; Cupid
- asleep, leaning on his torch: M. Antony, a naked figure; all these as
- big as the life: over the chimney-piece, a little Hercules tearing
- the lion; seven bustos, an excellent one of Pindar; one said to be
- of Olympias, I fancied it Lucretia. By the great stairs, painted in
- <em>fresco</em> by Sir James Thornhill, two bustos, one of the Grecian
- Venus. In niches upon the stairs, six statues as big as the life: Diana
- in a hunting-habit, a tuck’d-up coat, buskins of skins; a lady in
- Greek drapery; the Venus de Medicis; Paris with a mantle, the Phrygian
- bonnet, and odd stockings of the Dacian mode; (this is a statue of
- great antiquity;) a nymph with a long flowing garment tied under the
- breast, a fine turn of the body; a man, the right shoulder naked. In
- the little dining-room, over the chimney, an antique marble vase. In
- the green-house I saw these following: a Flora, the upper part lost;
- most inimitable drapery to show the naked, like the celebrated one at
- Rome: a coloss head of Apollo, from the collar bone to the crown of the
- head three foot; the body is said to lie among many more under Arundel
- house in London: the trunk of Camilla, both arms: a young Bacchus.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Towcester</span> Roman.</div>
-
- <p>Towcester is a pretty town, of Roman antiquity: through it in a strait
- line runs the Watling-street. Edward the elder built the mount called
- Berry hill when he fortified the town against the Danes. Roman coins
- have been oft found at this place.<a id="FNanchor_34" href="#Footnote_34" class="fnanchor">[34]</a> The inhabitants here, both old
- and young, are very busy in a silken manufacture, and making of lace.
- This town has been ditched about on the west side; every where else
- guarded by the rivers.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Buckingham.</div>
-
- <p>From hence we went through spacious woods to Buckingham. There was a
- castle before the Conquest, but now scarce to be known. The church is
- well built, particularly the chancel: they showed us a place called St.
- Rumbald’s shrine, where his coffin was taken up. St. John Baptist’s
- chapel, built, as said, by archbishop Becket, is now a free school.
- From this place we travelled upon a Roman road.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Alauna.</div>
-
- <p>Entering Oxfordshire, we saw on our right the park called Caversfield,
- which antiquaries say was the place where Allectus slew Carausius.
- <span class="sidenote">TAB. V. VI. 2d Vol.</span>This is near Bicester, which I visited big with expectation of finding
- somewhat considerable from a conflux of towns’ names that promised
- much. I <span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">41</span>observed Lawnton hard by, which seemed to confirm Mr.
- Baxter’s conjecture of Alauna hereabouts. Chesterton, Aldchester, and
- Wandlebury, were specious marks for enquiry; but I find they all depend
- upon Aldchester, where was the undoubted Alauna of Ravennas, mentioned
- thus in that valuable author. Next to London, Tamese, Branavis, Alauna;
- of all which I shall give an account in this journey.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>5·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <div class="bold"><i>Prospect of Aldchester near Bicester.</i> Alauna.</div>
- <img src="images/i_040.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>6·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <div class="bold"><span class="smcap">Alavna.</span></div>
- <img src="images/i_040_2.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <p class="clear"><span class="sidenote smcap">Akeman-street.</span>South of Bicester about a mile, two Roman roads cross one another
- at right angles, in the middle of a large and beautiful meadow; the
- Akeman-street running east and west, and another directly north and
- south: the first comes out of Buckinghamshire, I imagine from Fenny
- Stratford through Winslow; passes by here at Longford, over Bicester
- river, under the north side of Gravenhall hill; so proceeds by
- Aldchester, Kirklington, to Woodstock park, and so to Cirencester: the
- other crosses it at Aldchester, running directly through the middle of
- the city; then through the southern meadow belonging to Wandlebury,
- where it is visible enough to a nice eye, the grass being poor, and
- much abates of the verdure for its whole breadth: then entering a
- pasture, it is very plain, being elevated into a ridge of a hundred
- foot breadth, and two little ditches all along the sides: it leaves
- Marton on the east and Fencot, making fords over the brooks, paved
- with great broad stones its whole breadth; then proceeds the length
- of Ottmore, a spacious level, marsh or meadow, two or three miles
- together, where its ridge is plain, though broken by many sloughs; then
- through Beckly by the park wall; then under Shotover hill, and so, I
- suppose, passes the Thames at Sandford below Oxford. Northward from
- Alauna it proceeds through the northern meadow belonging to Chesterton
- and Bicester, where the stones it is composed of may be seen in the
- little ditches they have dug upon each side; then it enters the lane,
- and goes on the west side of Bicester town, at some little distance,
- and strait forwards on the east of Caverfield park by Stretton Audley,
- where many Roman coins have been found; and so to Radley by Buckingham,
- being now the great high road between the two towns, of which we may
- say, in the poet’s words,</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza" lang="la">
- <div class="i0"><i>Scilicet hæc ævi stravit longinqua vetustas,</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Heu nimis ex vero nunc ea strata jacent!</i></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p>The city called now Aldchester is a parcel of ploughed field, on the
- south side of the Akeman way, a mile at least south of Bicester:
- it stands in the middle of the meadow, which is very level, more
- especially stretching itself north and south of the city. I know not
- whether the ground which is the site of the city be naturally higher,
- or raised by the ruins and rubbish thereof: but, if any, this deserves
- to be called <em>urbs pratensis</em>. I can scarce believe that this
- meadow was so subject to inundations as now, at the time of setting
- the city here; and I never observed the like position elsewhere,
- when there is higher ground near enough: it may be thought rather a
- city of pleasure than strength. A very little way off to the east
- is Gravenhall hill, a copped hill curiously covered with wood and
- hedge-rows: beyond it is Berry hill, or vulgarly the Brill, guarded
- at top with one of their camps. A little brook comes from Chesterton,
- a mile off, and runs on the south side of the city; for between that
- and the Akeman way is it placed. When I came upon the spot, I soon
- found it by the prodigious blackness and richness of the earth, as
- they were ploughing; and this shows it to have been once in a very
- flourishing condition and populous; for the fund of nitrous particles
- and animal salts lodged in this earth are inexhaustible. The site of
- this city is a common, belonging to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">42</span> the inhabitants of Wandlebury,
- and every one has a certain little portion of it to plough up; whence
- we may well imagine the land is racked to the last extremity, and
- no great care taken in the management of it: yet it bears very good
- crops of wheat. As I traversed the spot, at every step I saw pieces
- of pots and vessels, of all sorts of coloured earth,<a id="FNanchor_35" href="#Footnote_35" class="fnanchor">[35]</a> red, green,
- and some perfectly of blue clay, that came from Aynhoe: I picked up
- several parcels, thinking to have carried them away, till I perceived
- them strown very thick over the whole field, together with bits of
- bricks of all sorts: the husbandmen told me they frequently break their
- ploughs against foundations of hewn stone and brick; and we saw upon
- the spot many paving stones with a smooth face, and laid in a very good
- bed of gravel, till they draw them all up by degrees, when the plough
- chances to go a little deeper than ordinary. Infinite numbers of coins
- have been found, and dispersed over the adjacent villages without any
- regard; and after a shower of rain now, they say, sometimes they find
- them: I got two or three of Tetricus jun. &amp;c. A good while ago, they
- dug up a glass urn full of ashes, laid in a cavity cut out of a stone:
- I went to see the stone, used as a pig-trough, at Wandlebury, in which
- office it has served ever since Dr. Plot’s time; for I find he mentions
- it, page 329: it is squarish, the cavity is roundish, nine inches deep,
- and a foot diameter; but the urn was broke and lost. I heard likewise,
- by enquiry, that they have found brass images, <em>lares</em>, and all
- sorts of antiquities, which I encouraged them to preserve for the
- future. This city was fenced with a bank and ditch quite round: it is a
- square of one thousand foot each side, standing upon the four cardinal
- points: the <em>vallum</em> and ditch are sufficiently visible, though
- both have met with equal change; the <em>vallum</em>, from the plough,
- which levels it to a certain quantity every year; and the inundation of
- the meadow raises the ditch: these are most easily discernible at the
- corners, for there they are still pretty perfect, and so notoriously,
- that the country people tell you in those places were four towers to
- defend the city. This little brook, that runs on the southern ditch,
- encompassed the city quite round originally: the track of the way that
- passes the city in the middle from south to north, is still very high
- raised, and another street crossed it the contrary way in the middle,
- and so went eastward, meeting the Akeman in its way to Langford: these
- were the two principal streets, and doubtless there were others; and
- great foundations are known to be all around in the meadows, especially
- northward and eastward upon both sides the Akeman. On the west side
- of the city, a little distance from the ditch, is an artificial hill
- in the very middle of the meadow which they call the Castle hill,
- and is full of Roman bricks, stone, and foundations. I attentively
- considered this place: the circuit of it is very plain and definable;
- it was a square of two hundred foot: I guess it originally to have been
- some considerable building in the middle of an <em>area</em>, or court;
- whether a <em>pretorium</em>, or a temple, might probably be ascertained
- upon digging: the edge of the <em>area</em> is very distinct upon the
- meadow, by the difference in the colour of the grass, the one gray,
- the other green; but the main body of the building reached not so
- far, but lies in a great heap of rubbish, much elevated, and of much
- less extent: before it, to the south, has been another <em>area</em>,
- paved with a bed of gravel, at least above a hundred foot broad: I
- doubt not but a curious person, that will be at the expence of digging
- this plot, would find <span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">43</span>it well worth his while. This is the sum of
- what I observed at the place: whether the present name be Alcester,
- as retaining any thing of the Latin, or Aldcester, signifying the old
- city, I dispute not; but think it has no manner of relation to Allectus
- that slew the brave Carausius. The name of Akeman way I am fit to think
- a vulgar error, as commonly imagined from going to the Bath:<a id="FNanchor_36" href="#Footnote_36" class="fnanchor">[36]</a> more
- probably it is <em>ag maen</em>, the stony <em>agger</em>, or ridge; this
- is confirmed by the people calling the other road too, that goes north
- and south, by the same name, Akeman-street. There has been a religious
- house at Bicester near the church, a priory of St. Eadburg, founded by
- Gilbert Basset. This town is famous for excellent malt liquor, of a
- delicate taste and colour.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>7·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <img src="images/i_043.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div>
- <figcaption><i>Prospect of Tame.</i> <span class="smcap">Tamese.</span> <i>14 Sept. 1724.</i></figcaption>
- </figure>
-
- <p>From hence we journeyed by Aynhoe, where is a vein of stiff clay,
- exceeding blue: at Souldern is a curious barrow, neatly turned like a
- bell, small and high; I believe it Celtic. Then climbing for a long
- while together, we ascended <span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Bury-hill</span> Ro. <em>camp</em>.</span>Bury hill, a village upon the highest
- copped mountain in the country: it is vulgarly called the Brill, as Mr.
- Camden takes notice: this has a vast prospect over Bernwood, Ottmore,
- and the whole country, bounded only by the superior Chiltern, seven
- miles off, which hence has a most notable aspect, and ends insensibly
- at the eastern and western horizon, diminishing regularly all the way:
- at the top of the Brill, by the church, I saw parcels of the old Roman
- camp, which has been modernised with additional bastions in the civil
- wars. Before the Conquest, here was a palace of Edward the Confessor.
- Much Roman coin has been found hereabout.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Tamese.</div>
-
- <div class="sidenote">TAB. VII. 2d Vol.</div>
-
- <p>Below here, two or three miles off, stands Tamese, now Tame, upon the
- side of a meadow; a pleasant town, consisting of one long and broad
- street, running north-east and south-west: behind lie the smiling
- arable fields: it is almost encompassed with rivulets. This was called
- a <em>burg</em> in the time of Edward the elder, anno 921, who besieged
- the Danes here, and took the burg, or castle. I saw infinite quantities
- of the <em>cornu ammonis</em>, a foot and half or two foot diameter,
- laid in the roads among rubble stone to mend them: all the quarries
- hereabouts abound with them of all dimensions. Here is a fine large
- church in form of a cross: in it many brasses and old monuments: some I
- transcribed.</p>
-
- <p><cite>Thome de Grey filii Roberti dni. de Grey Retherfeld militis obiit
- anno dni. millesimo</cite> ccc. Another thus.</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0">O certyn deth that now hast overthrowe</div>
- <div class="i0">Richard Quatremayns squier and Sibil his wyf that ly her now full lowe</div>
- <div class="i0">That with rial prinses of councel was true and wise famed</div>
- <div class="i0">To Richard duke of Yorke and after with his sone king Edward IIII named</div>
- <div class="i0">That founded in the chyrche of Tame a chantrye six pore men and a fraternity</div>
- <div class="i0">In the worship of St. Christofere to be relieved in perpetuitye</div>
- <div class="i0">They that of their almys for their sowles a <i lang="la">pater noster</i> and <i>ave</i> devoutly wul seye</div>
- <div class="i0">Of holy fadurs is granted them pardun of days xl alway.</div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p>Which Richard and Sibil out of this world passed in the yer of our lord
- M. cccclx. upon their sowles jhu have mercy amen. Another thus.</p>
-
- <p><i lang="la">Orate pro animabus Galfredi Dormer mercatoris Stapile ville Calis
- &amp; Margere &amp; Alicie uxoris ejus qui quidem Galfridus ob. 9 Mar. 1502.
- quorum <span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">44</span>animabus propicietur deus amen.</i> There are the images
- of twenty-five children upon this stone.</p>
-
- <p>John lord Williams of Tame baronet, baron of Tame, ob. 14 Oct. 1559.</p>
-
- <p>Here lyeth Sir John Clerk of Northweston knight which tuke Lovys of
- Orleance duke of Longuevill and marquis of Rotelin prysoner at the
- journy of Bomy by Tyrvain the xvi day of August in the v yer of the
- reign of the noble and victorious king Henry viii. which John decesed
- the v day of April 1539.</p>
-
- <p>There is an abbot (I suppose) in stone in the church wall of the south
- transept within side: near the church are the ruins of a priory built
- by Alexander bishop of Lincoln. At Notely, not far off, is another. A
- pot of Roman money was found at Sherburn in this neighbourhood last
- year.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Islip.</div>
-
- <p>Islip is memorable for the birth of Edward the Confessor. The font
- which stood in the king’s chapel, as still called, where he was
- baptised, is removed: but that font in Dr. Plot seems not of such
- antiquity. There are some remains of an ancient palace.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Oxford.</div>
-
- <p>Oxford requires a more elaborate description than a stranger can
- possibly give; and indeed so numerous are the colleges and halls, that
- one can scarce get a tolerable idea of them in the three days I staid
- here. The prospect of this place from Shotover hill is very inviting,
- nor is our expectation frustrated when in the place. The bridge over
- the Cherwel is a stately work, twice as broad as London bridge.
- Magdalen college, the legacy of our countryman, William of Wainflet,
- which he endowed with a princely hand, deservedly is thought one of the
- noblest foundations in Europe: the old oak is still left, nigh which
- he ordered it to be built. A vast tract of ground is inclosed with a
- castellated wall for gardens. On the other side the river is a park
- too, with long shady walks, but too near the water, wherein likewise
- more resembling those of Academus by Athens. The chapel is large and
- magnificent: the tower is a lofty strong work, in it a fine ring of
- bells: the whimsical figures in the quadrangle, over the buttresses,
- amuse the vulgar; they are the licentious inventions of the mason.
- Over-against this is the physic garden, whose curiosities Mr. Bobart
- showed us, and his own: since his death, its purpose is not so well
- executed. Here are remarkably fine greens in all the gardens at Oxford,
- especially in yew: the two piers here, with flower-pots on them, are
- thought to exceed; but the two yew men (as one waggishly called them)
- that guard the door, are ridiculous; the architecture of these gates
- is, I suppose, of Inigo Jones: two <em>sphynges</em> at the entrance
- are properly placed: these are without the city walls. University
- college has a new quadrangle built by legacy of Dr. Radcliffe; but I
- think uniformity, in this and other structures in the university, no
- sufficient reason for using the old manner of building. Queen’s college
- over-against it is of a good taste, improved to its present splendor
- under the auspices, and in great degree at the charge, of the late Dr.
- Lancaster. The library, the hall, and chapel, are beautiful. The old
- gatehouse has a pretty cieling over it of stone; they say it was the
- chamber of Harry the Vth’s uncle and tutor. Behind it is New college; a
- large chapel, a good visto to the garden, in which is a pleasant mount:
- this was the foundation of William of Wickham, bishop of Winchester:
- it stands in an angle of the old city walls. At All Souls a new court
- is building, but in the anachronism of the Gothic degenerate taste:
- the new library is a spacious room, the legacy of colonel Coddrington:
- the chapel is very elegant; the altar, entirely of marble, was made at
- the charge of George Clark, esq. one of the fellows. Christ church,
- the magnificent work of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">45</span> cardinal Wolsey: the stone cieling over the
- entrance to the hall is very pretty; the new quadrangle, designed by
- the learned Dr. Aldrich, is beautiful. St. John’s college has two
- handsome quadrangles, the portico’s built by archbishop Laud: two
- fine statues, in brass, of king Charles I. and his queen, probably
- designed by Inigo Jones. But it is impossible for me to run through
- the whole of this splendid university, which I leave as a fitter task
- for some of her own learned sons. The school is a large building: the
- Bodleian library, an immense store-house of most valuable books and
- manuscripts, the donation of archbishop Laud, the earl of Pembroke, O.
- Cromwell, Selden, Digby, Bodley, and other great names: over it is a
- spacious gallery, adorned with pictures of founders, benefactors, and
- others, and with the antique marbles which were the learned part of
- the inexhaustible collection of the earl of Arundel: these have been
- illustrated with the accurate comments of Selden and Prideaux. Here
- are some of the most valuable Greek monuments now in the world. Over
- the porch, upon a handsome pedestal of black marble, stands the brass
- effigies of the earl of Pembroke, their noble and generous chancellor,
- given by the present earl: this was moulded by Rubens. Here is likewise
- a very large collection of Greek, Roman, British, Saxon, English, and
- other coins, presented by several hands. The divinity schools, finished
- by Humphry the good duke of Gloucester, have a very curious stone
- roof. The Ashmolean repository, beside some good books, papers and
- MSS. of the founder, has a large collection of rarities in antiquity,
- nature and art, &amp;c. such as original pictures of famous men, marbles
- of old Egyptian carving in figures and hieroglyphics, a fine marble
- inscription in Arabic, which was over the door of a school at Tangier;
- an Egyptian mummy, being a man dressed like <em>orus Apollo</em>; the
- cradle of Henry VI. the hat of Bradshaw plaited with steel within,
- under which he sat in judgment upon king Charles I. a vast fund of
- precious and other stones, &amp;c. which it is impossible to enumerate.
- Here is, beside, a choice apparatus of instruments for chymistry and
- experimental philosophy under the direction of Mr. Whiteside. The
- printing-house is a good building with a bold portico, but next the
- schools disgraced with a wretched statue of my lord Clarendon. Between
- these two last and the schools stands the Sheldonian theatre, the
- first piece of architecture of Sir Christopher Wren, a spacious and
- well-proportioned room: it is worth while to go upon the top of it,
- to see the carpentry of the roof, and the fine prospect of the city
- and country thence. Before Baliol college they showed us the stone in
- the street which marks the place of the barbarous martyrdom of the
- venerable archbishop Cranmer and bishop Ridley, then upon the banks of
- the ditch without the walls of the city, which went along where the
- theatre now stands. Beyond the river, amongst meadows encompassed with
- rivulets, stood Oseney abbey, founded by Robert D’oyley 1129.<a id="FNanchor_37" href="#Footnote_37" class="fnanchor">[37]</a> upon
- the bridge is a tower called Friar Bacon’s Study, from that famous and
- learned monk, who in dark ages had penetrated so far into the secrets
- of nature. Oxford, no doubt, means no more than the passage over the
- river Ox, Ouse, or Isis, which are equivalents. Over another bridge of
- the Isis we went to see Ruleigh abbey, where some ruins and parcels
- still remain, turned to a common brew-house: a disjointed stone in
- a partition wall preserves this monumental inscription, <span class="antiqua">Elae de
- Warwik comitissae viscera sunt hic</span>. This Ela was daughter of Wil.
- Longspee earl of Salisbury, and wife of Thomas de Newburgh the last
- earl <span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">46</span>of Warwick of that name: she died on Sunday the fifth of the ides
- of February, 26 Ed. I. 1297. she gave lands to this abbey, and founded
- a chapel here, as appears by an inscription dug up 1705. her body was
- buried before the high altar at Oseney, her heart in this place. Of the
- castle there is a square high tower remaining by the river side, and a
- lofty mount or keep walled at top, with a stair-case going downward:
- this seems to have been a very strong place, built by Robert de Oili in
- the time of William the Conqueror. If there was a town here in Roman
- times, it seems to have been in this quarter. The White-friars was a
- royal palace; and near a green called Beaumonds, they showed us the
- bottom of a tower upon the ground where the valiant Richard I. <em>Cœur
- de lion</em>, was born. Without the town on all sides may be seen the
- remains of the fortifications raised in the time of the civil wars.
- It is in vain to pretend in this paper to enumerate the particular
- remarkables of every college, which are eighteen in number, and seven
- halls: these for beauty, grandeur, and endowment, no doubt, exceed any
- thing: their chapels, halls, libraries, quadrangles, piazzas; their
- gardens, walks, groves, and every thing, contribute to make the first
- university in the world. As to the city, though the colleges make up
- two thirds of it, and are continually eating it away, in buying whole
- streets for enlargement; yet it is large, regular, and crouds itself
- out proportionably: the streets are spacious, handsome, clean, and
- strait; the whole place pleasant and healthful; the inhabitants genteel
- and courteous: the churches are many and elegant enough, especially
- Allhallows, a neat fabric of modern architecture, with a very handsome
- spire. St. Peter’s in the east is venerable for its antiquity: the east
- end by its fabric appears prior to the time of the Conquest.</p>
-
- <p>Leaving this famous repository of learning, we saw on our left hand, on
- the other side of the river, the last ruins of Godstow nunnery, placed
- among the sweet meadows: here fair Rosamond, the beloved mistress of
- Henry II. had a tomb remarkably fine; but before the dissolution,
- scarce could her ashes rest, whose beauty was thought guilty even after
- death.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Woodstock.</div>
-
- <p>At Woodstock we saw part of the old palace, and her famous labyrinth,
- which is since destroyed: her bathing-place, or well (as called) is
- left, a quadrangular receptacle of most pure water, immediately flowing
- from a little spring under the hill, and over-shadowed with trees:
- near it some few ruins of walls and arches. King Ethelred called a
- parliament here; it has been a royal seat from most ancient times:
- Henry I. inclosed the park. A-cross this valley was a remarkably fine
- echo, that would repeat a whole hexameter, but impaired by the removal
- of these buildings. A stately bridge from hence now leads along the
- grand approach to the present castle: one arch is above a hundred foot
- diameter: a cascade of water falls from a great lake down some stone
- steps into the canal that runs under it.</p>
-
- <p>The new palace is a vast and magnificent pile of building; a royal gift
- to the high merit of the invincible duke of Marlborough; the lofty
- hall is painted by Sir James Thornhill; the salon by la Guerre: the
- rooms are finely enriched with marble chimney-pieces and furniture, but
- more by the incomparable paintings: many of Rubens’s best and largest
- pieces; that celebrated one of himself, his wife, and child, among
- others; Vandyke’s king Charles I. upon a dun horse, of great value;
- and the famous loves of the Gods, by Titian, a present from the king
- of Sardinia. The gallery I admired beyond any thing I have seen, lined
- with marble pilasters and whole pillars of one piece, supporting a most
- costly and beautiful entablature, excellent for matter and workmanship:
- the window frames of the same,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">47</span> and a basement of black marble quite
- round. Before it is stretched out a most agreeable prospect of the fine
- woods beyond the great valley: it is indeed of an admirable model:
- this, and what is of the most elegant taste in the whole house, is of
- the duchess’s own designing. The chapel is not yet finished, and which
- I doubt not will be equal to the rest. The garden is a large plot of
- ground taken out of the park, and may still be said to be part of it;
- well contrived by sinking the outer wall into a foss, to give one a
- view quite round, and take off the odious appearance of confinement
- and limitation to the eye, and which quite spoils the pleasure and
- intention of a garden: within, it is well adorned with walks, greens,
- espaliers, and visto’s to diremarkable objects that offer
- themselves in the circumjacent country. Over the pediment of this
- front of the house is a curious busto in marble of the French king,
- bigger than life, taken from the gate of the citadel of Tournay. The
- orangery is a pretty room. At the entrance hither from the town, her
- grace has erected a noble triumphal arch to the memory of the duke, and
- has projected a vast obelisk to be set in the principal avenue in the
- park, whereon is to be inscribed an account of his great actions and
- ability in council, and in war. Near the gate is the house where our
- famous Chaucer was born: methinks there was somewhat poetical in the
- ground that first gave him birth, and produced these verses, which I
- ask pardon for inserting, upon a subject which his genius only could be
- equal to:</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0"><i>Fame, like the optic artist, wont to swell</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>The object larger to the armed eye,</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Sing on, and mighty Marlborough’s actions tell:</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Secure from flattery in words abound,</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>And let thy trumpet diapasons sound;</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Speak but enough of him, ’tis all reality.</i></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p>Through the park we crossed again the Akeman-street, which runs all
- along with a perfect ridge made of stone, dug every where near the
- surface: it bears between north-east and east: it is a foot-path still
- through the park with a stile, and a road beyond it by which it passes
- to <span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Stunsfield</span>, Ro. <i>town</i>.</span>Stunsfield,
- where are marks of an intrenched work, once a Roman
- station: and in the place they found (the 25th Jan. 1712.) a most
- curious tesselated pavement, for bulk and beauty the most considerable
- one we know of: it was a parallelogram of thirty-five foot long and
- twenty foot wide, a noble room, and no doubt designed for feasting and
- jollity: in one of the circular works was Bacchus represented in stones
- properly coloured, with a tiger, a <em>thyrsus</em> in his hand enwrapped
- with vine leaves. This admirable curiosity deserved a better owner;
- for the landlord and tenant quarreling about sharing the profits of
- showing it, the latter maliciously tore it in pieces. When the earth
- was first laid open upon its discovery, they found it covered a foot
- thick with burnt wheat, barley and pease: so that we may guess upon
- some enemy’s approach it was covered with those matters to prevent its
- being injured, or was turned into a barn and burnt.</p>
-
- <p>We crossed a foss called Grimesditch, the <em>vallum</em> eastward: it
- goes by Ditchley wood and house, which takes its name from it. Dr.
- Plot does not sufficiently distinguish this from a Roman road: it was
- doubtless some division of the ancient Britons: the country is all a
- rock of rag-stone. Many good seats of the nobility hereabouts; Cornbury
- lord Clarendon’s, Ditchley lord Litchfield’s, duke of Shrewsbury’s at
- Hathorp, new built of stone very beautiful. Juniper grows plentifully
- hereabouts. At<span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">48</span> Chadlington is a square Roman camp. At Enston is a
- pretty curiosity in water-works, cascades falling down artificial rocks
- overgrown with waterplants, chirping of birds imitated, many pipes of
- water, secretly to dash the spectators, and fancies of that kind.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Chipping-norton.</span></div>
-
- <p>Chipping-Norton must have been a great trading town by the number of
- merchants, as they are there called, buried in the church under brasses
- and inscriptions: others of alabaster: and the name of the place
- signifies it, as our Cheapside, equivalent to market, to buying or
- cheapening. There are marks of a castle by the church, which probably
- was demolished in the time of king Stephen. Lord Arundel, beheaded in
- the barons wars, lived in it: a place called the Vineyards near it.
- Roman coins are frequently found here. The church is a good building of
- a curious model, the south porch hexagonal, and a little roof over it
- supported by a stone arch: under the choir is a charnel-house full of
- the ruined rafters of mortality. A priory was here near Chapel on the
- heath: the Talbot inn was religious: stories of subterraneous passages
- thence to the priory. A well lately found in the ploughed fields at
- Woodstock hill, a mile south of this place, and more such like in the
- fields. Hereabouts they call camps <em>barrows</em>, meaning boroughs.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Rowldrich.</span> Br. <i>temple</i>.</div>
-
- <p>Hence we rode to see Rowldrich stones, a very noble monument; the first
- antiquity of this sort that I had seen, and from which I concluded
- these works to be temples of the ancient Britons. I crave leave to
- reserve its description for another work. In the clay upon these
- hills they dig out <i lang="la">cornua ammonis</i>, small, but very prettily
- notched: they are nothing but clay hardened in the shell. Further on,
- in Tadmerton parish, we rode through a large round camp on the top of
- a hill doubly intrenched, able to contain a great army. Bloxham has a
- very fine church, the steeple of an odd make, but pretty enough. At
- Broughton near Banbury is the seat of the lord Say and Seal.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Branavis.</div>
-
- <div class="sidenote">TAB. VIII. 2d Vol.</div>
-
- <p>Banbury was a Roman station, called <em>Branavis</em>. That master
- builder the bishop of Lincoln, Alexander, built the castle anno 1125,
- I doubt not but upon the Roman fortification: he enlarged it and built
- it after the mode of those times, taking in a huge space of ground
- with a wall, towers and ditch: within he made another work upon one
- side, where were the lodgings, chapel, &amp;c. A small part of the wall of
- this is only now left, of good hewn stone; but the ditch went along
- the middle of the adjacent street, and houses are built by the side
- of it, out of its ruins, as people now alive remember: in the civil
- wars it received new additional works, for there are plain remains
- of four bastions; a brook running without them. Many Roman coins and
- antiquities have been found here. There is an inn called the Altarstone
- inn, from an altar which stood in a nich under the sign: this had a ram
- and fire carved on it, as they say: part of the stone is still left:
- I imagine this was originally a Roman altar: they tell us William the
- Conqueror lay at this inn. The town is a large straggling place and
- dirty, though on a rock with sufficient descent: one would think it
- was walled about in most ancient times. Here are three gates, though
- of later make. The tower of the church, they say, was much higher than
- at present: the church is of great compass: three rows of pillars, but
- of too slender a manner, which makes them all lean awry, and different
- ways: many additions have been made to it: a touch-stone monument of
- the family of Cope: other old monuments ruined. The bridge is long,
- consisting of many arches. <i>Branau supercilium aquæ</i> seems well
- to answer the etymology of the Roman name, as Mr. Baxter has it:<span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">49</span>
- The stone of this country is mixed with sand. Black gloves is a great
- manufacture here. Kenric the West-Saxon king, anno 540, routed the
- Britons at this place.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>8·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <div class="bold"><i>Prospect of Banbury.</i>&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="smcap">Branavis.</span>&nbsp; &nbsp; <i>13. Sept. 1724.</i></div>
- <img src="images/i_048.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>9·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <div class="bold"><i>Prospect of Warwick</i> <i>July 7<sup>th.</sup> 1725</i></div>
- <img src="images/i_049.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>Fletcher Sculp.</i></div>
- <figcaption>PRAESIDIUM</figcaption>
- </figure>
-
- <p>We went over the vale of Red-horse and Edghill, which presents us with
- a most extensive prospect, steep to the north: on the top of it, at
- Warmleighton, is a large and strong intrenchment of a circular but
- irregular form, said to be Danish by the inhabitants, but seemingly
- more ancient and British. Descending the hill for a mile, we rode
- through Radway, and over the field between it and Kyneton, where the
- famous battle of Edghill was fought: we were shown some of the graves
- of the slain. At Tellisford we crossed the Foss-way.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Præsidium.</span> Warwick.</div>
-
- <p>Warwick is situate on a rock, a fine new-built town, having been almost
- wholly burnt down in 1694. The church and lofty tower is new built,
- except the east end, which is old and very good work: there are a many
- fine brass monuments of the earls of Warwick and others, as the earl of
- Essex; <span class="sidenote">TAB. IX. 2d Vol.</span>many chapels and confessionaries, with other remains of ancient
- superstition: in the chapter-house on the north side is a tomb of the
- lord Brook. The castle stands upon the river Avon, over which is a
- stone bridge with a dozen arches: across is a large stone-work dam,
- where the water falls over it as a cascade, under the castle wall,
- which is built on a rock forty foot above the water. It overlooks the
- whole town and country, being delicately situate for pleasure and
- strength, fenced with a deep mound and strong embattled double walls
- and lofty towers: there are good apartments and lodgings next the
- river, the residence of the lord Brook: on one side of the area is a
- very high mount: we were shown the sword and other gigantic reliques
- of Guy the famous earl of Warwick. The priory on the north-east side
- of the town overlooks a pleasant woody vale: there are a great many
- curious original pictures, by Vandike and other good hands, of kings,
- queens, famous statesmen, persons of learning both at home and abroad.
- A mile out of town, on the side of a hill, is a pretty retired cell,
- called Guy-cliffe: in an old chapel there is a statue of Guy eight foot
- high: the fence of the court is intire rock, in which are cut stables
- and out-houses. We saw the rough cave where they say Guy died a hermit.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Coventry</span>.</div>
-
- <p>Coventry is a large old city: it was walled about: the gates are
- yet standing. It is adorned with a fine and very large church and
- beautiful spire a hundred yards high. There is another good church in
- the same yard. The cross is a beautiful Gothic work, sixty six foot
- high: in niches are the statues of the English kings. At the south end
- of the town stands a tall spire by itself, part of the Grey Friers’
- conventual church. The town-house is worth seeing: the windows filled
- with painted glass of the images of the old earls, kings, &amp;c. who have
- been benefactors to the town. Here the famous lady Godiva redeemed the
- privileges thereof almost at the expence of her modesty, the memory
- whereof is preserved by an annual cavalcade. These verses are wrote in
- the town-house.</p>
-
- <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">50</span></p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry" lang="la">
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0"><i>Auxiliis olim stetit alma Coventria regum</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Dum fortuna fuit. Magnos colit hinc Edoardos</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Henricosque suos, urbs non ingrata patronos.</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Jamque adeo afflictis crescit spes altera rebus</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Elizabetha tuis princeps mitissima sceptris.</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Lætior illuxit nullo pax rege Britannis.</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Ergo age diva tuis sis fœlix civibus usque,</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Exuperans patrias &amp; avitas æmula laudes.</i></div>
- </div>
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0"><i>Princeps ille niger (niveis cui vertice pennis</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Crista minax, victi regis cæsique Bohæmi</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Exuviis) heros Edoardus magnus in armis,</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Hic sedem posuit. Sic dicta est principis aula.</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Hoc authore fuit libertas civibus aucta,</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Muneribusque ornata suis, res publica crevit.</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Hinc depicta, vides, passim sua penna per urbem</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Testatur magni monumentum &amp; pignus amoris.</i></div>
- </div>
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0"><i>Labentes fatis (quid enim perdurat in ævum?)</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Fortunas urbis tandem miseratus agrorum</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Extendit fines, Northumbrius ille Johannes.</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Cumque fuit bello dux invictissimus, armis</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>In mediis coluit pacis, vir providus, artes;</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Exemploque suum vocat ad pia facta Robertum.</i></div>
- </div>
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0"><i>Non tantum meruit Leofricus Cestrius olim</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Nec conjux Godiva, pii dux fœmina facti.</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Godiva ab turpi quæ lege coacta mariti</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Fertur equo, diffusa comas nudata per urbem.</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Asseruitque suos, culpent utcunque minores!</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Vicit amor patriæ libertatisque cupido:</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Quantum hodie patrem referens Leicestrius heros</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Retro sublapsam qui nostram restituit rem,</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Sustinet in pejus ruituram urbisque salutem.</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>I modo quo virtus te fert, sic itur ad astra.</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Et quibus insistis fœlix, procede paternis</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Auspiciis, maneatque tuos hæc cura nepotes.</i></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <div class="right">Holbech, May 1712.</div>
-
- <div class="chapter">
- <span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">51</span>
- <hr class="full thick">
- <hr class="full mt0">
- <h2 class="nobreak" id="ITER_CIMBRICUM"><span class="gesperrt2">ITER CIMBRICUM</span>.&nbsp; &nbsp; III.</h2>
- </div>
-
- <hr class="full">
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry" lang="la">
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0">———<i>quid virtus &amp; quid sapientia possit</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Utile proposuit nobis exemplar Ulyssem.</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Qui domitor Trojæ, multorum providus urbes</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Et mores hominum inspexit</i>——— <span class="smcap fright">Hor.</span></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
- <hr class="full">
-
- <div class="center bold mt3 lh1"><i>To</i><span class="gesperrt1"> RICHARD MYDDLETON MASSEY</span><br>
- <i>of</i> Wisbech, <i>M. D.</i></div>
-
- <p class="drop-cap">TO you of right I inscribe this journey, to which your company and my
- inclination to see somewhat of the world allured me. I had conceived
- great notions of the old Britons betimes, and longed to hear at least
- a language spoke soon after the deluge; and I then prided myself as
- much as Cæsar formerly in making this small inroad into their country.
- I willingly take this occasion of recognizing how I ought to esteem
- it a happiness, that you chanced to be seated in a place so near that
- of my nativity, and presented to me a subject of imitation, in all
- the commendable qualifications that may conduce to the felicity and
- ornament of life. Your deep insight into the <em>materia medica</em>, the
- theory and practice of physic, your great knowledge of antiquities,
- natural history, and all polite learning, and the excellence of your
- hand in designing, were as so many spurs to me in my young years, when
- we are most apt at imitation: and that the latter exercise of the pen
- is of importance to all the others, is too notorious, and universally
- allowed by all, to need any solemn proof. Who sees not that the defeats
- and confusion in anatomy and botany, and every part of philosophy,
- is owing to the want of drawing? when the innumerable labours of so
- many ages are either lost to posterity, or imperfectly transmitted,
- for that reason. How well does this range and distinguish ideas, and
- imprint them in one’s own mind, as well as make them known to others?
- It is not to be disputed but a person that understands it, sees much
- farther into things than others: the beauties of art and nature are
- open to him. Indeed every body is pleased with perfection and beauty,
- though they know not why: as suppose that of a fine statue, they are
- hugely delighted with it, though they understand not that it is owing
- to the proper disposition and contrast of the limbs, to the attitude,
- the grace of the posture, the expression of the action, the light and
- shade, and a thousand other requisites, as well as the particular
- delicacy and outline of the parts and members: and these things are
- only to be learnt and gathered from Nature’s self, from copying and
- observing it; for she is the grand exemplar of all fine strokes in
- drawing;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">52</span> as Aristotle formed his Art of Poetry from the great genius
- of Homer, and he from the force of Nature.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Grantham.</div>
-
- <p>Grantham was certainly a Roman town. Burton in his Commentaries on
- Antoninus’s Itinerary relates, that a great stone trough, covered
- with a stone, was dug up there, full of Roman coins, p. 216.<a id="FNanchor_38" href="#Footnote_38" class="fnanchor">[38]</a> The
- street that runs on the east of the church is called Castle-street:
- between it and the river have been dug up foundations of a castle,
- as they say.<a id="FNanchor_39" href="#Footnote_39" class="fnanchor">[39]</a> I have a piece of glass with enamel upon it, ground
- with an engine; which is curious, and I take it for Roman: it was
- found in the Grange garden. Here is a spacious church and fine spire,
- much noted: it is a hundred yards high, equalled by another in this
- county, Louth, besides the tower of Boston: under the south wall of
- this church are two tomb-stones, said to be of the founders; one in old
- French, the date only legible, 1362; the other, <span class="antiqua" lang="la">hic jacent ricard
- de calceby et margareta vx ejus m ccclxii</span>. On a stone in a wall in
- Church-lane this inscription (the <em>orate pro anima</em> seems to have
- been cut out by order of some zealot) <span class="antiqua" lang="la">Iohis Goldsmyth mercatoris
- de Grantham</span>, a coat of arms, quarterly; in the sinister upper
- quarter a mullet. There were many religious houses here, some reliques
- of them left: in one just by the market-place is a very pretty little
- chapel, or oratory, adorned with imagery. The Angel inn was once a
- commandery. Here is a good free-school, erected by Richard Fox bishop
- of Winchester, where Sir Isaac Newton received the first principles of
- literature, under the famous William Walker then school-master.<a id="FNanchor_40" href="#Footnote_40" class="fnanchor">[40]</a>
- Belvoir, the seat of the dukes of Rutland, stands on a high hill with a
- very fine prospect: you may see Nottingham castle and Lincoln minster,
- and all around you, below, many towns and lordships the demesnes of
- this noble family. Here is a perfect pattern of the true old English
- hospitality. In the fine gallery are many ancient and modern family
- pictures and others; the original one of king Charles I. as he sat at
- his trial. This place was the possession of Robert de Totney,<a id="FNanchor_41" href="#Footnote_41" class="fnanchor">[41]</a> a
- great man who came in with William the Conqueror: he built a priory
- near it. I imagine originally here was a Roman camp; for coins have
- been found about it.<a id="FNanchor_42" href="#Footnote_42" class="fnanchor">[42]</a> Upon the edge of Lincolnshire we visited the
- tombs of the duke of Rutland’s family at Bottesworth, which are worth
- seeing.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Nottingham.</div>
-
- <p>Nottingham we arrived at after crossing the Roman road called Foss:
- it is a pleasant and beautiful town. They have a great manufacture
- here for stockings, which they weave in looms from the invention of
- a neighbouring clergyman. Their ale is highly valued for softness
- and pleasant <span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">53</span>taste: the cellars in the town are hewn out of
- the rock two or three story deep, to fourscore steps sometimes. The
- castle is a goodly building on a high perpendicular rock; seems to
- have been modelled after some of Inigo Jones’s draughts: many good
- pictures there: it commands a vast prospect. The south side of the
- rock is altogether inaccessible: a winding stair-case along it to the
- bottom, which they call Mortimer’s hole: there are vast subterraneous
- grottos cut underneath. St. Mary’s church is a fine old lightsome
- building, with a good ring of eight bells. We saw Mr. Hurst’s gardens,
- late Pierpoint’s, which are very pretty; in the middle a copy of the
- Dalmatian slave in metal. One may easily guess Nottingham to have
- been an ancient town of the Britons: as soon as they had proper tools
- they fell to work upon the rocks, which every where offer themselves
- so commodiously to make houses in; and I doubt not that here was a
- considerable collection of colonies of this sort: that which I have
- described in <a href="#i_053_1">Plate 39</a>.<span class="sidenote">TAB. XXXIX.</span> will give us an idea of them; it is in the
- duke of Newcastle’s park. What is visible at present is not of so old
- a date as their time; yet I see no doubt but that it is formed upon
- theirs: this is a ledge of perpendicular rock hewn out into a church,
- houses, chambers, dove-houses, &amp;c. The church is like those in the
- rocks at Bethlehem and other places in the Holy Land: the altar is
- natural rock, and there has been painting upon the wall; a steeple,
- I suppose, where a bell hung, and regular pillars. The river here
- winding about makes a fortification to it; for it comes to both ends
- of the cliff, leaving a plain before the middle. The way to it was by
- gates cut out of the rock, and with oblique entrance for more safety.
- Without is a plain with three niches, which I fancy their place of
- judicature, or the like: there is regularity in it, and seems to
- resemble that square called the Temple in the Pictish castle, <a href="#i_053_2">Plate
- 38</a>.<span class="sidenote">TAB. XXXVIII.</span> in Scotland. The wild <em>cherry-tree</em> grows upon this place,
- and many curious plants, <em>liver-worts</em>, <em>lychnis sylvester</em>.
- 9. <em>clus. ruta muraria</em>, <em>rosa pimpinellæ folio odorata</em>,
- <em>capillus veneris</em>, <em>umbilicus veneris</em>. Between this and the
- castle is an hermitage of like workmanship. The butchers shambles is
- an old edifice built for a granary. Clifton near here is a good seat,
- with pretty gardens and a noble prospect: in the church are many old
- brasses of the family of this name. Three miles from Nottingham is
- Woolaton hall, the seat of my lord Middleton; which is a good piece
- of old building: there is a pretty summer-house panelled and cieled
- with looking-glass, which produces a pleasant effect: underneath is a
- water-house with grotesque work of shells, &amp;c. A little beyond, in the
- road, upon the brow of the hill, is a high rugged piece of rock, called
- Hemlock-stone, seen at a good distance: probably it is the remains of a
- quarry dug from around it. Beyond this we entered Derbyshire. There are
- some few ruins of Dale abbey seated in a valley, and the east end of
- the choir over-grown with ivy: the mullions of the windows are knocked
- out (I suppose for sake of the iron:) it is overlooked by a near and
- high hill covered with oaks. In the ascent, out of the rock is cut a
- cell, or little oratory, called the Hermitage:<span class="sidenote">TAB. XIV.</span> on one side the door and
- windows, at the east end, a square altar and a step up to it of the
- same quarry, little niches cut in the wall, and a bench to sit on all round.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_053_1">
- <div class="plateno"><i>39</i></div>
- <div class="bold">BRYTTISH.</div>
- <img src="images/i_053_1.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="right-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div><i lang="la">Illus trissimo Principi<br>
- Iohi Duci de Novo Castro &amp;c.<br>
- Antiquitatis in Vivario Suo<br>
- Juxta Nottingham Tabula Sacra.</i></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- <figcaption><i>Rudera Coloniæ Troglodyticæ juxta. Nottingham.</i></figcaption>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb5" id="i_053_2">
- <div class="plateno"><i>38</i></div>
- <div class="fleft smcap">Pictish</div>
- <div class="caption"><i>Caves of Hawthornden, Scotland.</i></div>
- <img src="images/i_053_2.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>I. Harris sculp.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <p class="clear">Derby<span class="sidenote smcap clear">Derby.</span> has five churches; the tower of one is very fine. The new-erected
- silk manufacture is a remarkable curiosity: the house is of a vast
- bulk, five or six stories high: the whole furniture is one machine
- turned by a single water-wheel, which communicates its power through
- the whole, and actuates no less than 97–746 several wheels or motions,
- and still employs<span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">54</span> three or four hundred hands to over-look and act
- in concert with it. Mr. Loom the owner brought the design of it from
- Italy.<a id="FNanchor_43" href="#Footnote_43" class="fnanchor">[43]</a> The waters that run here, whether from the lead mines or
- coal, are apt to cause the <em>bronchocele</em> in the fair sex.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Burton.</div>
-
- <p>Beyond Derby, along the Ricning way is Burton upon the Trent, where
- is a bridge of thirty-seven arches. Here was an old abbey: they are
- pulling down the ruins to build a new church.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Derventio.</div>
-
- <div class="sidenote">TAB. LXXXVI.</div>
-
- <p>A mile below Derby, upon the river Derwent, stood the old Roman city
- Derventio, now called Little Chester. I traced the track of the wall
- quite round, and in some places saw under ground the foundation of it
- in the pastures, and some vaults along the side of it: they dig it up
- daily to mend the ways with. Mr. Lord’s cellar is built on one side of
- the wall three yards thick: it is of a square form, standing between
- the Roman way called the Ricning street and the river. Within the walls
- are foundations of houses in all the pastures; and in the fields round
- the castle (as they call it) you may see the tracks of the streets
- laid with gravel: in a dry summer the grass over them is very bare.
- Divers wells are found, some still remaining, square, curbed with good
- stone. Brass, silver, and gold Roman coins have been found in great
- abundance; earthen pipes, aqueducts, and all kinds of antiquities.
- Towards the river they have dug up human bones, brass rings, and the
- like. There was a bridge over the river, for it was too deep and rapid
- for a ford: they can feel the foundations of it with a staff. In Mr.
- Hodgkin’s cellar a stag’s head with horns was dug up; probably a temple
- thereabouts: a square well in his garden three foot and a half one way,
- and four another.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Ricning-way.</span></div>
-
- <p>A little further northward upon the Ricning street,<a id="FNanchor_44" href="#Footnote_44" class="fnanchor">[44]</a> which seems to
- take its name from the Saxon <em>rige</em>, <em>dorsum</em>, is Horreston
- castle, whose ruins on a hoary rock are nearly obliterated; and out of
- it they cut great quantities of rubstones to whet scythes withal. We
- are now got into the very Peak of Derbyshire, the British Alps, where
- the odd prospects afford some entertainment to a traveller, and relieve
- the fatigue of so tedious a road. Now you pass over barren moors, in
- perpetual danger of slipping into coal-pits and lead-mines; or ride for
- miles together, on the edge of a steep hill, on solid slippery rock or
- loose stones, with a valley underneath, where you can scarce discover
- the bottom with your eye; which brought into my mind that beautiful
- in Virgil,</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry" lang="la">
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0"><i>Saxa per &amp; scopulos &amp; depressas convalles.</i></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p>Instead of trees and hedges, they fence in their poor meadow or arable
- with walls of loose stones picked up from beneath their feet. The
- extended sides of the mountains are generally powdered over as it were
- with rocks, streams of water dribbling down every where; and now bolder
- cataracts diversify the romantic scene.</p>
-
- <p>At the smelting-mills they melt down the lead ore, and run it into a
- mould, whence it becomes pigs as they call it: the bellows continually
- are kept in motion by running water. We were complemented to be let
- down two hundred yards deep into the mines, if we pleased. We came to
- a monstrous<span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">55</span> parcel of gigantic rocks, seemingly piled one a-top of
- another as in the wars of the gods, called the Torr: there were a few
- inhabitants at bottom, in little cottages, who durst trust themselves
- under so ruinous a shelter: it was fitly represented by those verses of
- the poet,</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry" lang="la">
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0"><i>Stabat acuta silex, præcisis undique saxis,</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Speluncæ dorso insurgens, altissima visu.</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Dirarum nidis domus opportuna volucrum!</i> <span class="fright"><span class="smcap">Virg.</span> viii. Æn.</span></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp68 mb5" id="i_054">
- <div class="plateno"><i>86</i></div>
- <div class="bold">DERVENTIO<br><i class="small">31 Sept. 1721.</i></div>
- <img src="images/i_054.jpg" alt="">
- <figcaption class="bold">Simon Degg Ar. <i>Castrum Romanum jam suum d.d. W. Stukeley</i></figcaption>
- </figure>
-
- <p>I took the pains to clamber on hands and knees almost to the top, and
- entered another hermit’s cell, who had a mind, if possible, to get
- quite out of the world: it is hewn in the rock, with a most dreary
- prospect before it: on one end is a crucifix and a little niche, where
- I suppose the mistaken zeal of the starved anchorite placed his saint,
- or such trinket. Over-against it, about half a mile off, is another
- such cliff; but by the care of a gentleman that lives underneath (Mr.
- Ashe) it is reduced into a more agreeable form: there is an easy ascent
- up to it by steps hewn out of the rock, and abundance of alcoves,
- grots, summer-houses, cellars, pinacles, dials, balustrades, urns, &amp;c.
- all of the same materials: earth is carried to the top, and fine grassy
- walks with greens planted along them, upon this hanging terrace, whence
- you have a free view over many a craggy mountain. I was highly pleased
- with so elegant a composure, where Art and industry had so well played
- its part against rugged Nature.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Chatsworth.</div>
-
- <p>We went through Wirksworth, and over the rapid Derwent, whilst on a
- sudden (like the advantageous change of a scene) we were surprised at
- the sight of Chatsworth, the famous seat of the duke of Devonshire,
- deservedly reckoned one of the wonders of the Peak, as remarkable for
- its situation in so wild a place as its curious fabric and ornaments.
- The river here for a while puts on a smooth aspect, and glides gently
- by, as unwilling to leave so glorious a place: between it and the house
- is a fine venerable walk of trees, retaining the name of that great
- philosopher Hobbes, who studied frequently under its shade. A noble
- piece of iron-work gates and balusters exposes the front of the house
- and court, terminated at the corners next the road with two large stone
- pedestals of Attic work, curiously adorned with trophies of war, and
- utensils of all the sciences, cut in <em>basso relievo</em>. This face
- of the building is Ionic, the whole being a square of a single order,
- but every side of a different model: a court in the middle, with a
- piazza of Doric columns of one stone each overlaid with prodigious
- architraves. The stone is of an excellent sort, veined like marble,
- hewn out of the neighbouring quarries, and tumbled down the adjacent
- hill: it is introduced into the work in very large sizes, finely
- jointed. In the anti-room to the hall are flat stones, of fourteen
- foot square, laid upon the heads of four pillars, and so throughout:
- in the hall stairs the landing or resting steps of the same dimension:
- the doors, chimneys, window-cases, stairs, &amp;c. of marble; the sashes
- very large, gilt; the squares two foot broad: the cielings and walls
- of all the apartments charged with rare painting of Varrio and other
- famous hands: the bath-room all of marble curiously wrought. The
- chapel is a most ravishing place: the altar-end and floor marble, the
- seats and gallery cedar, the rest of the wall and cieling painted. The
- gardens abound with green-houses, summer-houses, walks, wildernesses,
- orangeries, with all the furniture of statues, urns, greens, &amp;c. with
- canals, basons and water-works of various forms and contrivance,
- sea-horses, drakes, dolphins, and other fountains that throw up the
- water: an artificial willow-tree of copper spouts and drops water from
- every leaf: a wonderful cascade, where, from a neat house of stone like
- a temple, out of the mouths of beasts, pipes, urns, &amp;c. a whole river
- descends the slope of a hill, a quarter<span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">56</span> of a mile in length, over
- steps, with a terrible noise and broken appearance, till it is lost
- under ground. Beyond the garden, upon the hills, is a park, and that
- overlooked by a very high and rocky mountain: here are some statues and
- other antiquities.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Buxton.</div>
-
- <p>Hence we went by Bakewel, and left Haddon-house belonging to the duke
- of Rutland on our left hand, in a pleasant and fruitful valley. We
- travelled ten miles over a perfect desert to Buxton, encompassed with
- waste and boggy mountains and naked cliffs: the tops of the hills
- hereabouts are quagmires, or springs, furnishing numerous rivers
- running hence all manner of ways. Nature seems to have thrown these
- precipicious heights into the middle of the island on purpose for her
- limbeck, to distil the liquid sources of springs by some unknown power.
- The valleys are the firmest ground, made of the gritty washings of
- the mountains: we were every moment diverted with the appearance of
- curious plants, but no tree to be seen. At Buxton are the admirable
- warm springs, which invite numbers of strangers yearly, especially
- from the northern countries. The duke of Devonshire has built a large
- and convenient house for their reception: the bath-room is arched over
- head, and the whole made handsome, convenient, and delightful. This
- collection of tepid waters, exceeding clear, will receive twenty people
- at a time to walk and swim in: the temper thereof, equal to new milk,
- or that of one’s own blood, procures a moderate perspiration: its
- effect is remarkable for giving that gentle relaxation of the solids,
- which takes off the weariness and fatigue of a journey, and refreshes
- immediately: it is useful physically in many cases, and may be indulged
- more than the hot baths of Somersetshire, which frequently do harm for
- that reason, through an imprudent use. Such a one as this was imitated
- by the sumptuous bagnios of the Roman emperors. Sir Tho. Delves, who
- received a cure here, gave the pump and a pretty stone alcove over the
- drinking-spring in the yard: the water may be raised to what height you
- please. Philosophers have long sought for a solution of the cause of
- these hot springs: the chymists know many mixtures will produce a flame
- and effervescence, particularly steel filings and sulphur, when water
- is poured thereon; but that these could continue the same course and
- quantity of water, and this regular heat, through all ages and seasons,
- is worthy of admiration. Indulgent Nature indeed has made some amends
- to the inhabitants of this barren region by this inestimable gift.
- We found in one of the rooms these verses, wrote upon the wall by a
- physician that formerly frequented the place:</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry" lang="la">
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0"><i>Corpore debilior Grani se proluit undis,</i></div>
- <div class="i2"><i>Quærit aquas Aponi, quem febris atra necat.</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Ut penitus renem purget cur Psaulia tanti,</i></div>
- <div class="i2"><i>Vel quæ Lucinæ gaudia, Calderiæ?</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Sola mihi Buxtona placet, Buxtona Britannis</i></div>
- <div class="i2"><i>Undæ Grani, Aponus, Psaulia, Calderiæ.</i></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">About half a mile off is that stupendous cavern called Pool’s Hole,
- under a great mountain: the entrance at the foot thereof is very low
- and narrow, so that you must stoop to get in: but immediately it
- dilates into a wide and lofty concavity, which reaches above a quarter
- of a mile end-wise and farther, as they tell us: some old women with
- lighted candles are guides in this Cimmerian obscurity: water drops
- from the roof every where, and incrusts all the stones with long
- crystals and fluors: whence a thousand imaginary figures are shown you,
- by the name of lions, fonts, lanterns, organs, flitch of bacon, &amp;c. At
- length you come to the Queen of Scots<span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">57</span> pillar, as a <em>terminus</em> of
- most people’s curiosity. A stream of water runs along the middle, among
- the fallen rocks, with a hideous noise, re-echoed from all sides of the
- horrid concave: on the left hand is a sort of chamber, where they say
- Pool, a famous robber, lived. We may very well apply these verses to
- the place:</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza" lang="la">
- <div class="i0"><i>At specus &amp; Caci detecta apparuit ingens</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Regia, &amp; umbrosæ penitus patuere cavernæ:</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Non secus ac si qua penitus vi terræ dehiscens</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Infernas reseret sedes &amp; regna recludat</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Pallida, diis invisa, superque immane barathrum</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Cernatur——</i> <span class="fright"><span class="smcap">Virg.</span> Æn. viii.</span></div>
- </div>
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0">Within appears old Pool’s tremendous cave,</div>
- <div class="i0">With glimmering lights redoubled horror shown;</div>
- <div class="i0">Yawning, as earth by strong convulsions torn</div>
- <div class="i0">Opens the caverns of the Stygian king</div>
- <div class="i0">Dire, hateful to the gods, and the black pit</div>
- <div class="i0">Discloses wide——</div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p>We entered the pleasanter country of Cheshire at Lyme, the seat of
- Mr. Leigh: here are curious gardens, lakes, cascades, fountains,
- summer-houses. This is a fine level, woody, and rich county, abounding
- with lakes of water called meres: the towns stand but thin, and it
- being mostly inclosure, there are paved causeways for horses along
- the clayey roads: many ancient seats and parks, but most ruinous and
- decayed. We were entertained by the worthy Sir Francis Leycester at his
- seat, Nether Tabley, by Knutsford, upon the Roman way from Mancunium
- to Deva: this house stands in the midst of a mere: here is a good
- library completed by the curious possessor, with a vast addition to his
- ancestors’ store, of all the English history especially. In cleansing
- this mote some time since they found an old British axe, or some such
- thing, made of large flint, neatly ground into an edge, with a hole in
- the middle to fasten into a handle: it would serve for a battle-axe.
- Rotherston church stands upon a hill, and commands a lovely prospect
- across a mere, a mile and half in length and a mile over, where
- amongst great variety of fish are smelts found, properly inhabitants
- of the sea. There is a floating island, formed from turf, sustained by
- implication of the roots of <i>alnus nigra baccifera</i> growing on it,
- which the wind wafts over from one side to the other. On the south side
- of the steeple is this inscription:</p>
-
- <div class="center"><span class="antiqua">Orate pro anima domini willmi hardwicke vicarii istius ecclesiae<br>
- et pro animabus omnium parochianorum qui hoc sculpt.</span></div>
-
- <p class="noindent">Out of the church-yard you see to the Yorkshire hills beyond
- Manchester. By the church-porch were lately dug up three large stone
- coffins. In the church are abundance of coats of arms. Among other
- curious plants grow hereabouts <i>calamus aromaticus</i> and <i>ros
- solis</i>. The Roman road from Manchester to Chester passes the Mersey
- river at Stretford, through Altringham, to the north of Rotherston
- mere; then by Chapel in the street, by Winingham, to Northwich; then by
- Sandy way, the Chamber or Edesbury, it passes the river at Stanford, so
- called from the stony ford, to Chester.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Condate.</div>
-
- <p>We were at Northwich, which I take to be Condate, as all distances
- persuade me. It is still, among others hereabouts, famous for
- brine-springs, whence they make great quantities of finest salt, by
- boiling the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">58</span> water in large iron pans of small depth: as fast as the
- salt crystallises, they rake it out and dry it in conic wicker baskets:
- the duty paid by it amounts to a great sum of money. About thirty years
- ago on the south side of the town they discovered immense mines of
- rock salt, which they continually dig up, and send in great lumps to
- the maritime parts, where it is dissolved and made into eating-salt.
- We were let down by a bucket a hundred and fifty foot deep to the
- bottom of the salt quarry, a most pleasant subterraneous prospect: it
- looks like a large cathedral, supported by rows of pillars and roof
- of crystal, all of the same rock, transparent and glittering from the
- numerous candles of the workmen, labouring with their steel pick-axes
- in digging it away: this rock-work of salt extends to several acres
- of ground. There is a very good church in the town: the end of the
- choir is semicircular: the roof of the church is very fine, whereon
- are carved several of the wicker baskets before mentioned; whence they
- report it was built out of the profits of the salt works. At Lawton
- Yates they bore for the salt spring to sixty yards deep; lower down, at
- Hassal, it is forty seven; at Wheeloc, eighteen; about Middlewich it is
- less; at Northwich it arises to open day; which seems to intimate that
- the salt spring runs between layers of the earth in an horizontal line:
- upon boring, it rises with great impetuosity, so that the workmen have
- scarce time to get out of the wells. This is all along the side of a
- brook that comes from a remarkable hill called Mawcop, upon the edge
- of Staffordshire, so that the ground rises above the true level in the
- mentioned proportion.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Mancunium.</div>
-
- <p>Manchester, in Lancashire, is the <em>Mancunium</em> of the Romans,
- the largest, most rich, populous, and busy village in England. There
- are about two thousand four hundred families. The site of the Roman
- <em>castrum</em>, between Sir John Bland’s and Manchester, is now called
- Knock Castle. They have a fabulous report of Turquin a giant living
- there, killed by Sir Lancelot de Lake, a knight of king Arthur’s: in it
- was found a Saxon ring, mentioned in Hickes’s <cite>Thesaurus</cite>, now in
- possession of Sir Hans Sloan. A Roman altar dug up here, described by
- Dr. Lister, Philos. Trans. N. 155. p. 457. and a large gold Roman ring.
- The Castle field, as sometime called, is about as big as Lincoln’s-Inn
- square, the foundation of the wall and ditch remaining. Some call it
- Man-castle: its name comes from the British <em>maen</em>, <em>lapis</em>,
- meaning its rocky soil. The old church, though very large, having
- three rows of neat pillars, was not capable of containing the people
- at divine service; whence they raised, by voluntary subscriptions, a
- new edifice after the London models, finished last year: the choir
- is alcove-fashion, and the pilasters painted of <em>lapis-lazuli</em>
- colour. There is a fine new street built to the north. Their trade,
- which is incredibly large, consists much in fustians, girth-web,
- tickings, tapes, &amp;c. which is dispersed all over the kingdom, and to
- foreign parts: they have looms that work twenty-four laces at a time,
- which was stolen from the Dutch. The college has a good library for
- public use, endowed with 116l. per ann. to buy more books, and a salary
- for the librarian. There is a free-school maintained by a mill upon the
- river, which raises 300l. per annum. On the same river, for the space
- of three miles upwards, there are no less than sixty water-mills. The
- town stands chiefly on a rock; and across the river is another large
- town, called Salthorp. Dr. Yarburgh, son to him late of Newark, showed
- me a great collection of old Greek, Persian, Tartarian, and Punic coins
- brought from Asia. About a mile off, at the seat of Sir John Bland, is
- a Roman altar, lately dug up thereabouts: in the mosses, as they call
- them in this country, they often find reliques<span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">59</span> of antiquity, such as
- arrow-heads, celts, pick-axes, kettles, &amp;c. of brass; many are in the
- repository of the library: likewise subterraneous fir-trees, as in most
- other countries in the like sort of ground. French wheat grows commonly
- hereabouts, much used among the poor people, of very different species
- from ours: they have likewise wheat with long beards like barley, and
- barley with four rows of grain on an ear, and great plenty of potatoes.</p>
-
- <p>We passed through Delamere forest, upon the Roman road, in our way
- to Chester. They say here was formerly an old city, now called the
- Chamber on the Forest; I suppose, some fort or camp to secure the road.
- From hence you have a fine prospect to the Welsh mountains, such a
- noble scene of nature as I never beheld before. Beeston castle is on
- our left, built upon a rocky precipice.<span class="sidenote smcap">Deva.</span> Chester is a fine old city,
- and colony of the Romans, the residence some time of the <i>legio
- vicesima victrix</i>: a hypocaust was lately found, lined with bricks
- made by that legion. I need not repeat what other authors say of the
- antiquities at this place. The rows or piazzas are singular, through
- the whole town giving shelter to foot people. I fancied it a remain
- of the Roman porticos. Four churches beside the cathedral, which is
- a pile venerable indeed for age and almost ruin: there are shadows
- of many pictures on the walls, <em>madonnas</em>, saints, bishops, &amp;c.
- but defaced. At the west end are some images of the earls Palatine
- of Chester in niches. The adjoining abbey is quite ruined. The walls
- round the city are kept in very good repair at the charge of the
- corporation, and serve for a pleasant airy walk. The Exchange is a neat
- building, supported by columns, thirteen foot high, of one stone each:
- over it is the city-hall, a well-contrived court of judicature. The
- castle was formerly the palace, and where the earls assembled their
- parliaments, and enacted laws independent of the kings of England,
- and determined all judicial trials themselves. Abundance of Roman and
- British antiquities are found hereabouts. At Stretton, Roman coins,
- and a camp-kettle of copper dug up at Codington: near it divers other
- antiquities. The old Watling-street way from Dover came originally
- hither through Stretton and Aldford; though I suppose in after-times of
- the Romans they turned it off more southward into Wales, for sake of
- the many towns seated on the Severn.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Wales.</div>
-
- <p>Next we entered Wales, and came to Wrexham in Flintshire. Here is a
- good church, and the finest tower-steeple I ever saw, except Boston:
- it is adorned with abundance of images. There is a new town-house
- built like that at Chester. The common people speak the Welsh. The
- gentry are well-bred, hospitable, generous and open-hearted: the
- females are generally handsome. I took a great deal of pleasure in
- hearing the natives talk in their own language, and remarked a great
- many words among them still retained in our country of Lincolnshire
- Holland: it is probable enough that our fens and morasses might be
- a long security to us against the Saxons, as it had been to them
- against the Romans. I shall give instances of a few words. When we
- put oatmeal into water-gruel or milk, we call it <em>lithing</em> the
- pot: the same is signified by the Welsh word <em>llith</em>. Davis
- thinks the English <em>slide</em> comes from the British <em>llithro</em>,
- <em>labi</em>: we call it <em>slither</em>. A <em>bull-beggar</em>, or
- <em>boggleboe</em>, is manifestly the British <em>bwbach</em>, with all
- its synonymes. A top we call a <em>whirligig</em>, purely British. We
- say a <em>whisking</em> fellow, dexterous, ready: British <em>gwisgi</em>,
- To <em>whyne</em>; British <em>gwynio</em>. Very many such like occur in
- Dr. Skinner’s <cite>Etymologicum</cite>, which he would fain persuade us
- the Welsh learnt from the Saxons, <span class="sidenote smcap">Bonium.</span>but without reason. We passed by
- the valley upon the river Dee, where was the famous British monastery
- in early times, whereof Pelagius was abbot, whose British name<span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">60</span> was
- Morgan; but no remains discernible. What some talk concerning it,
- probably the vestiges of the Roman city; for many foundations, coins,
- and antiquities have been dug up; and not long since two gates of the
- city were left. We entered Shropshire, passing by Ellsmere and Wem
- to Newport, where is a noble foundation for a school well endowed
- by William Adams esq; to the value of 7000l. over the door is this
- distich, <i lang="la">in fundatorem</i>:</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry" lang="la">
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0"><i>Scripsisti heredem patriam tibi quæ dedit ortum,</i></div>
- <div class="i2"><i>Scriberis ergo tuæ, jure, pater patriæ.</i></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">he gave 550l. towards building the town-house.</p>
-
- <p>Presently entering Staffordshire, we came into the Watling-street, laid
- very broad and deep with gravel not yet worn out, where it goes over
- commons and moors. It is raised a good height above the soil, and so
- strait, that upon an eminence you may see it ten or twenty miles before
- you, and as much behind, over many hill-tops answering one the other as
- a visto of trees. Here and there, between one Roman town and another,
- you meet with the remains of an old fort or guard-place. We lodged
- at an inn called Ivesey bank, on the borders between Staffordshire
- and Shropshire. About a mile off, in a large wood, stands Boscobel
- house, where the Pendrils lived, who preserved king Charles II. after
- Worcester fight, and famous for the Royal Oak.<span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Royal Oak.</span></span> The grand-daughter of
- that William Pendril still lives in the house. The floor of the garret
- (which is a popish chapel) being matted, prevents any suspicion of a
- little cavity with a trap-door over the stair-case, where the king was
- hid: his bed was artfully placed behind some wainscot that shut up very
- close. A bow-shot from the house, just by a horse-track passing through
- the wood, stood the Royal Oak into which the king, and his companion
- colonel Carlos, climbed by means of the hen-roost ladder, when they
- judged it no longer safe to stay in the house; the family reaching them
- victuals with the nut-hook. It happened (as they related it to us)
- that whilst these two were in the tree, a party of the enemy’s horse,
- sent to search the house, came whistling and talking along this road:
- when they were just under the tree, an owl flew out of a neighbouring
- tree, and hovered along the ground as if her wings were broke, which
- the soldiers merrily pursued without any circumspection. The tree is
- now inclosed within a brick wall, the inside whereof is covered with
- laurel; of which we may say, as Ovid did of that before the Augustan
- palace, <i lang="la">mediamque tuebere quercum</i>. The oak is, in the middle,
- almost cut away by travellers whose curiosity leads them to see it:
- close by the side grows a young thriving plant from one of its acorns.
- The king, after the restoration, reviewing the place, carried some of
- the acorns, and set them in St. James’s park, or garden, and used to
- water them himself: he gave this Pendril an estate of about 200l. per
- annum, which still remains among them. Over the door of the inclosure I
- took this inscription cut in marble.</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry" lang="la">
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0"><i>Felicissimam arborem quam in asylum</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>potentissimi regis Caroli II. Deus O. M.</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>per quem reges regnant hic crescere</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>voluit, tam in perpetuam rei tantæ memoriam,</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>quam specimen firmæ in reges</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>fidei, muro cinctam posteris commendant</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Basilius &amp; Jana Fitzherbert.</i></div>
- <div class="i10"><i>Quercus amica Jovi.</i></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">61</span></p>
-
- <p>Entering Staffordshire, we went along the Watling-street by
- Stretton and Water-Eaton: where a brook crosses the road was the
- <span class="sidenote smcap">Pennocrucium.</span><em>Pennocrucium</em> of the Romans, as mentioned in the Itinerary of
- Antoninus. A little way off is Penkridge, which no doubt retains
- somewhat of the ancient name.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Litchfield.</div>
-
- <p>Litchfield is a city neat enough. The cathedral is a very handsome
- pile, with numerous statues in niches at the front, which appears very
- majestic half a mile off, there being two high spires, and another
- higher in the middle of the cross. The rebels intirely ruined all the
- ornament of the inside, with the brass inscriptions, tombs, &amp;c. and
- were going to pull down the whole fabric for sale. It is built in the
- middle of a bog for security, and held out some fierce attacks for
- king Charles I. This was made a metropolitical see by the potent king
- Offa. St. Ceadda lived an eremitical life here by the spring near Stow
- church. This town arose from the ruin of the Roman <span class="sidenote smcap">Etocetum.</span><em>Etocetum</em>,
- a mile off, where the Rickning and Watling streets cross, now called
- Chesterfield wall, from some reliques of its fortifications: it stands
- high: the Rickning street is very visible southward, passing within a
- mile of Fotherby, and so to a park in Sutton Colfield, Warwickshire;
- thence to Bromicham. Castle hill, two miles hence above Stone hall,
- is a camp, the port eastward. A mile and half from Wall is West-wall,
- a camp; and Knaves-castle, near the Watling-street, probably a guard
- upon the road: it is a circle of twenty yards diameter, with a square
- in the middle, three or four yards broad, with a breast-work about it:
- the whole is inclosed with three ditches: it stands in a large common.
- This Rickning is all along called by Dr. Plot <em>Icknilway</em>, but
- injuriously, and tends only to the confusion of things; I suppose,
- to favour his <em>Iceni</em> in this country; which notion is but
- chimerical. We passed through Tamworth, pleasantly situated in a
- plain watered by the river Tame, which divides it into two counties:
- it was the residence of the Mercian kings, and has been secured by a
- <em>vallum</em> and ditch quite round. Here died the noble lady Elfleda,
- daughter of king Alfred, queen of the Mercian kingdom, anno 919. This
- town, by William the Conqueror, was given to the Marmyons, who built
- the castle here, hereditary champions to the kings of England; from
- whom that office descended to the Dymokes of Lincolnshire. We went
- through Bosworth over the field where Henry VII. won the kingdom by a
- bold and well-timed battle.</p>
-
- <p class="right">Boston, Dec. 1713.</p>
-
- <div class="chapter">
- <span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">62</span>
- <hr class="full thick">
- <hr class="full mt0">
- <h2 class="nobreak" id="ITER_SABRINIUM"><span class="gesperrt2">ITER SABRINIUM</span>.&nbsp; &nbsp; IV.</h2>
- </div>
-
- <hr class="full">
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry" lang="la">
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i2"><i>O mitte mirari beatæ</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Fumum, &amp; opes, strepitumque Romæ.</i> <span class="smcap fright">Hor.</span></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
- <hr class="full">
-
- <div class="center bold mt3 lh1"><i>To</i><span class="gesperrt1"> TANCRED ROBINSON</span>,&nbsp; <i>M. D.</i> &amp;c.</div>
-
- <p class="drop-cap">TO you, Sir, that have visited the boasted remains of Italy, and
- other transmarine parts, it would seem presumptuous to offer the
- trifle of the following letter, were I not sufficiently apprized of
- your great humanity and candour, which prompts you to encourage even
- the blossoms of commendable studies. You, that have made an intimate
- search, and happily obtained a thorough insight into Nature, consider
- that she proceeds regularly by successive gradations from little
- things to greater. The acquisition of any part of science is owing
- to a conversation with its elements and first principles, whose very
- simplicity renders them not disagreeable.</p>
-
- <p>These pages were memoradums I took in a summer’s journey with our
- friend Mr. Roger Gale. This being my first expedition since I came
- to live at London, I design as early as possible to commemorate the
- felicity I enjoyed thereby of your acquaintance, and the opportunity of
- observing the noble character you sustain, of possessing all the wisdom
- that ancient or modern learning can give us without vanity, and that
- the physician, the scholar, and the gentleman, meet in you.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Bibroci.</div>
-
- <p>I observe, in Berkshire, a river called Ock, running in the north side
- of the county by Abingdon into the Thames, which in the Celtic language
- signifies sharp or swift, or perhaps water in general: this is in Oke
- hundred. In the south side of the county is the town of Okeingham.
- These seem plainly remnants of the old name of the inhabitants of
- this country, <em>Bibroci</em>, not yet observed. Near Reading is
- Laurence-Waltham, which has been Roman: there is a field called
- Castle-field, and vast numbers of coins found. By it is Sunning, once
- an episcopal see. From London to Maidenhead it is a gravelly soil; then
- a marly chalk begins.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Reading.</div>
-
- <p>Reading is a large and populous town upon the fall of the Kennet into
- the Thames; in the angle of which it stands upon a rising ground,
- overlooking the meadows, which have a fine appearance all along the
- rivers. There are three churches, built of flint and square stone in
- the <em>quincunx</em> fashion, with tall towers of the same. Arch-bishop
- Laud was born here. The abbey stood in a charming situation: large
- ruins of it still visible, built of flint; the walls about eight
- foot thick at present, though the stone that faced them be pillaged
- away: the remainder is so hard cemented, that it is not worth while
- to separate them: many remnants of arched vaults a good height above
- ground, whereon stood, as I suppose, the hall, lodgings, &amp;c. there
- is one large room about sixteen yards broad, and twenty-eight long,
- semi-circular towards the east end, with five narrow windows,
- <span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">63</span>three doors towards the west, and three windows over
- them: it was arched over, and seems to have supported a chapel, in
- which we fancy king Henry I. was buried with his queen: he founded
- this abbey upon an old one, that had been formerly erected by a <span class="sidenote">TAB. XXVI.</span>Saxon
- lady. There are the remains of bastions, part of the fortifications,
- when garrisoned by the parliament army in the civil wars: <span class="sidenote">TAB. XXIII.</span>the abbey
- gate-house is yet pretty intire. Here was a famous old castle, but
- long since demolished, perhaps originally Roman. Near the trench the
- Danes made between the river Kennet and the Thames, is Catsgrove hill,
- a mile off Reading: in digging there they find first a red gravel,
- clay, chalk, flints, and then a bed of huge petrified oysters five
- yards thick, twenty foot below the surface: these shells are full of
- sea sand.<a id="FNanchor_45" href="#Footnote_45" class="fnanchor">[45]</a> Dr. Plot, in <em>Oxfordshire</em>, p. 119. who supposes
- these appearances only the sports of Nature, solves this matter after
- a way that will induce one to think his cause reduced to extremity. On
- the right hand, just beyond Theal, is Inglefield, where king Ethelwolf
- routed the Danes.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_063_1">
- <div class="plateno"><i>26</i></div>
- <div class="inline left bold">
- <i><span class="large">Ruins of Reding Abby Aug<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span> 14. 1721.</span><br>
- Neustrius Henricus situs hic, Inglorius urna<br>
- nunc jacet ejectus, tumulum novus advena quærit<br>Frustra</i>——</div>
- <img src="images/i_063_1.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>I. V<sup>der</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.6em;">.</span> Gucht Sculp.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp66 mb4" id="i_063_2">
- <div class="plateno"><i>23</i></div>
- <div class="large"><b>GATEHOUSES</b></div>
- <div class="small"><i>Reading Abby Gatehouse. 14 Aug 1721</i></div>
- <img src="images/i_063_2.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="small"><i>The College Gate at Worcester. 30 Aug 1721</i></div>
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>I. Harris sculp.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_063_3">
- <div class="plateno"><i>60</i></div>
- <div><b>Ad SPINAS</b></div>
- <img src="images/i_063_3.jpg" alt="">
- <div>
- <div class="fright0 left">
- <ol class="alpha small mt0">
- <li><i>Icening Street.</i></li>
- <li><i>Donington Castle.</i></li>
- <li><i>Way to Winchester.</i></li>
- <li><i>Speen.</i></li>
- </ol>
- </div>
- <div><b><i>Prospect of</i> Newberry <i>from the South between</i> Winchester
- <i>and</i> Silchester <i>Road<br>Iun. 28, 1723.</i> <span class="small"><i>Stukeley del</i>:</span></b></div>
- </div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>10·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <div class="inline"><span class="smcap xlarge">Spinae</span><br><span class="small"><i>Iun 28 1723</i></span></div>
- <img src="images/i_063_4.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i> </div>
- <div class="attr"><i>Parker Sculp<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span></i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp66 mb4" id="i_063_5">
- <div class="plateno"><i>62</i></div>
- <div class="mb4 lh0 bold"><i><span class="large">Cunetio</span><br><span class="small">Castrum<br>6 July. 1723.<br>
- Algernonio Com de Hartford d.d. W. Stukeley.</span></i></div>
- <img src="images/i_063_5.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley delin.</i> </div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_063_6">
- <div class="plateno"><i>63</i></div>
- <div><b><i>Prospect of</i> Marlborough <i>from the South. 29 Iun 1723.</i><span class="small fright0" style="margin-right: 5em;">CVNETIO.</span></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_063_6.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="small">A.&nbsp;<i>Marlborough Mount.</i> B.&nbsp;<i>the Road to Kennet.</i> C.&nbsp;<i>the
- Castle.</i> D.&nbsp;<i>S<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span> Peters Church.</i> E.&nbsp;<i>S<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span> Marys.</i>
- F.&nbsp;<i>the Road to Ramsbury.</i> G.&nbsp;<i>the Kennet.</i> H.&nbsp;<i>the remains of
- the Roman Castrum.</i> I. <i>Lady Winchilseas.</i> K. <i>Preshute.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley, del.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb5">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>11·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <div><b><span class="smcap large">Cunetio</span><br><span class="small"><i>29 Iun. 1723</i></span></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_063_7.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>Parker Sculp<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span></i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <p class="clear">A little west of Newberry<span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Ad Spinam.</span></span> is a village called Speen; which has given
- antiquarians a reasonable hint of looking for the town, in Antoninus
- called <span class="sidenote">TAB. LX.</span><em>ad Spinas</em>, hereabouts; and doubtless it was where now
- stands the north part of the town of Newberry, still called Spinham.<span class="sidenote">TAB. X. 2d Vol.</span>
- At this place the great Icening-street road, coming from the Thames
- at Goring, and another Roman road running hence through Speen to
- Hungerford, and so to Marlborough, crosses the Kennet river. Newberry
- has derived itself and name from the ruins of the old one; and the
- grounds thereabouts are called Spinham lands. Dunington castle was
- once in the possession of Geffrey Chaucer. A remarkable large oak,
- venerable through many ages, because it bore his name, was felled in
- the civil wars. The Kennet, still called by the country people Cunnet,
- near Hungerford, parts the soil, that on the north side being a red
- clay gravel, that on the south a chalk. I have often wished that a map
- of soils was accurately made, promising to myself that such a curiosity
- would furnish us with some new notions of geography, and of the theory
- of the earth, which has only hitherto been made from hypotheses.
- This brings into my mind a remarkable passage in Sir Robert Atkins’s
- <em>Glocestershire</em>: “Lay a line (says he) from the mouth of the
- Severn to Newcastle, and so quite round the terrestrial globe, and
- coal is to be found every where near that line, and scarce any where
- else.”<a id="FNanchor_46" href="#Footnote_46" class="fnanchor">[46]</a></p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Cunetio.</div>
-
- <p>From Newberry the Roman road (I believe coming from Silchester) passes
- east and west to Marlborough, the Roman<span class="sidenote">TAB. LXII. LXIII.</span>
- <em>Cunetio</em>,<a id="FNanchor_47" href="#Footnote_47" class="fnanchor">[47]</a> named
- from the river. This town consists chiefly of one broad and strait
- street, and for the most part upon the original ground-plot; nor does
- it seem unlikely that the narrow piazza<span class="sidenote">TAB. XI. 2d vol.</span> continued all along the sides
- of the houses is in imitation of them: the square about the church in
- the eastern part one may imagine the site of a temple fronting this
- street: to the south are some reliques of a priory: the gate-house is
- left: on the north has been another religious house, whereof the chapel
- remains, now turned into a dwelling-house. <span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">64</span>Where now is the seat of my
- lord Hartford was the site of the Roman <em>castrum</em>, for they find
- foundations and Roman coins; I saw one of Titus in large brass: but
- towards the river, and without my lord’s garden-walls, is one angle of
- it left very manifestly, the rampart and ditch intire: the road going
- over the bridge cuts it off from the limits of the present castle: the
- ditch is still twenty foot broad in some part: it passed originally on
- the south of the summer-house, and so along the garden-wall, where it
- makes the fence, to the turn of the corner: the mark of it is still
- apparent broader than the ditch, which has been repaired since, but of
- narrower dimension: then I suppose it went through the garden by the
- southern foot of the mount, and round the house through the court-yard,
- where I have marked the track thereof with pricked lines in <a href="#i_063_5">Plate 62</a>.
- There is a spring in the ditch, so that the foss of the <em>castrum</em>
- was always full of water. I suppose it to have been five hundred Roman
- feet square within, and the Roman road through the present street of
- Marlborough went by the side of it. Afterward, in Saxon or Norman
- times, they built a larger castle, upon the same ground, after their
- model, and took in more compass for the mount; which obliged the road
- to go round it with a turn, till it falls in again on the west side
- of the mount at the bounds of Preshute parish. Roman coins have been
- found in shaping the mount; which was the keep of the later castle,
- and now converted into a pretty spiral walk, on the top of which is an
- octagonal summer-house represented<span class="sidenote">TAB. I.</span> Tab. I. This neighbouring village,
- Preshute, has its name from the meadows the church stands in, which
- are very low: in the windows upon a piece of glass is written, DNS
- RICHARDUS HIC VICARIUS, who I believe lived formerly in a little house
- at Marlborough, over-against the castle, now an ale-house, where his
- name is cut in wood in the same old letters over the door.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Leucomagus.</div>
-
- <p>Great Bedwin I take to be the <em>Leucomagus</em> of Ravennas; for that
- and the present name signify the same thing, viz. the white town,
- the soil being chalk: he there places it just before Marlborough,
- <em>cunetzione</em>. We saw near it the continuation of Wansdike.<span class="sidenote">TAB. LXIV.</span> This
- town is an old corporation: in it the famous Dr. Tho. Willis, the
- ornament of our faculty, was born. In the church lies the monument of a
- knight cross-legged; on his shield, barry of six argent and gules, an
- orle of martlets sable; over all three escallops of the first on a bend
- of the third. Upon a stone in brass in the choir,</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza" lang="la">
- <div class="i0"><i>Bellocampus eram graja genetrice semerus</i></div>
- <div class="i2"><i>Tres habui natos, est quibus una soror.</i></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p>Here lyeth the body of John Seymour, son and heyre of Sir John Seymour
- and of Margery oon of the doughters of Henry Wentworth knyght, which
- decesed the xv day of July the yer of our lord M. D. X. on whose soul
- Ihu have mercy, and of your charity say a <i lang="la">pater nostr</i> and a <i lang="la">ave</i>.</p>
-
- <p><i lang="la">Hic jacet dns Thomas Dageson quondam vicarius istius ecclesie qui
- obiit 7. die Decemb. A<sup>o</sup> dni.</i> M.D.I. <i lang="la">cujus anime propitietur
- deus amen</i>. on a brass in the middle aile.</p>
-
- <p><i lang="la">Roger de Stocre chev. ici gycht deu de sa alme eyt merci.</i> in the
- south transept.</p>
-
- <p>The town arms are, a man standing in a castle, with a sword in his
- hand. Castle copse, south-east from the town about half a mile, as much
- from Wansdike, containing about fourteen acres, seems the old Roman
- castle. Howisdike I suppose a camp upon an eminence and in an angle
- made by the Wansdike. They showed us a brass town gallon, from the
- Winchester standard, given by my lord Nottingham. In the east window
- of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">65</span> this church some time since was the picture of a priest with
- two crutches, a cup in his hand, and a cann standing by him, with
- this inscription, which Mr. le Neve Norroy gave me: he transcribed it
- out of an old MS. now in the library of Holkham in Norfolk, formerly
- Sir Ed. Coke’s book; and for its antiquity I think it not unworthy of
- mentioning.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp73 mb2" id="i_064_1">
- <div class="plateno"><i>1</i></div>
- <div><b>Rural Curiosity.</b></div>
- <div class="small"><i>Marlborough Mount</i></div>
- <img src="images/i_064_1.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="small"><i>Cascade at Wilton.</i></div>
- <div><i>Dedicated to the Right Honorable the Lady Hartford.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_064_2">
- <div class="plateno"><i>3</i></div>
- <div class="fleft small">B. <i>S<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span> Peters.</i></div>
- <div class="fright small" style="margin-right: 1em;">A. <i>the scite of the Roman Castrum</i></div>
- <div><b><i>View of Lord</i> Hartfords House <i>at</i> Marlborough <i>29 Iun. 1723.</i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_064_2.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley del:</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_064_3">
- <div class="plateno"><i>64</i></div>
- <div><b><i>View of</i> Great Bedwin &amp; Wansdike <i>2 Iuly.
- 1723.</i> <span class="smcap">Leucomagus.</span></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_064_3.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry" lang="la">
- <div class="stanza antiqua">
- <div class="i0">G SU PERIS APELE VIKERE DE SET EGLISE</div>
- <div class="i0">SU MA POTENTE SU APUE TOT EN TELE GYSE</div>
- <div class="i0">MON HANAP AY EN POYNE E BEVEREI SANS FEINTISE</div>
- <div class="i0">MON POT A MON DERER MISS E LA NOVELE GYISE</div>
- <div class="i0">DE MON POT E MON HANAP SEREY JUSTICE</div>
- <div class="i0">KE NUL NI BEYVE SANS NE Y AY M ATENTE MISE.</div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry" lang="la">
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0"><i>G su Peris apele vikere de set eglise</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Su ma potente su apue tot en tele gyse</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Mon hanap ay en poyne e beverei sans feintise</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Mon pot a mon derer miss e la novele gyise</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>De mon pot e mon hanap serey justice</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Ke nul ni beyve sans ne y ay m atente mise.</i></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p>In modern French,</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry" lang="la">
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0"><i>Je suis Peris appellé vicaire de cette eglise</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Sur ma potence suis appuié tout en tell guise</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Mon hanap enpoigne &amp; boirai sans feintise</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Mon pot a mon derriere mis a la nouvelle guise</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>De mon pot &amp; mon hanap serai justice</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Que nul ne boive sans que n’y ai m’autant mis.</i></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p>In English,</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0">I am Peris call’d, vicar of this church,</div>
- <div class="i0">Upon my crutches leaning just in this wise;</div>
- <div class="i0">My pouch in my fist, and I’ll drink without guile;</div>
- <div class="i0">My pot at my back set after the new mode:</div>
- <div class="i0">To my pot and my pouch I will have justice done,</div>
- <div class="i0">For none shall drink without putting in as much again.</div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">We were entertained at Wilton, the noble seat of the great earl of
- Pembroke; and deservedly may I style it the School of Athens. The
- glories of this place I shall endeavour to rehearse in a separate
- discourse.</p>
-
- <p>Crekelade, probably a Roman town upon the Thames; for from this a
- very plain Roman road runs to Cirencester. Much has been the dispute
- formerly about a fancied university in this place, and the little town
- in its neighbourhood <em>Latin</em>, which it would be senseless only
- to repeat. The word <em>Crekelade</em> is derived from the cray-fishes
- in the river: <em>Lade</em> is no more than a water-course, but more
- especially such a one as is made by art;<a id="FNanchor_48" href="#Footnote_48" class="fnanchor">[48]</a> and we here find the
- river pent up for a long way together by factitious banks, in order
- the better to supply their mills: so <em>Latin</em> is no more than
- <em>ladeings</em>, or the meadows where these channels run. Ledencourt,
- near Newent, Glocestershire, I suppose, acknowledges the like original;
- and many <span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">66</span>more. The town of Lechelade falls under the same predicament:
- <em>leche</em> signifies a watery place subject to inundations; as Leach,
- a town near Boston before mentioned, anciently written <em>Leche</em>:
- as Camden says of Northleach, p. 240. and Litchfield hence fetches its
- etymology from the marshy bog that environs the church, rather than the
- superstitious notion there current. Not far hence are two towns called
- Sarney and Sarncote, from the Roman causeway; <em>sarn</em> in Welsh
- importing a paved way. There is another upon the same road between
- Cirencester and Glocester.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Corinium.</span> Dobunorum</div>
-
- <p>Cirencester was anciently the <em>Corinium</em> of the Romans, a great
- and populous city, built upon the intersection of this road we have
- been traveling, and the great Foss road going to the Bath: it was
- inclosed with walls and a ditch of a vast compass, which I traced quite
- round. Under the north-east side of the wall runs the river Churn,
- whence the names of the town: the foundation of the wall is all along
- visible; the ditch is so where that is quite erased.</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry" lang="la">
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i6">————<i>sic omnia fatis</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>In pejus ruere ac retro sublapsa referri.</i><span class="smcap fright">Virg. G. i.</span></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">A great part of the ground comprehended within this circuit is now
- pasture, corn-fields, or converted into gardens, beside the site of
- the present town. Here they dig up antiquities every day, especially
- in the gardens; and in the plain fields, the track of foundations of
- houses and streets are evident enough. Here are found many Mosaic
- pavements, rings, intaglia’s, and coins innumerable, especially in one
- great garden called <em>lewis</em> grounds, which signifies in British
- a palace, <em>llys</em>. I suppose it was the <em>prætorium</em>, or head
- magistrate’s quarters. Large quantities of carved stones are carried
- off yearly in carts, to mend the highways, besides what are useful in
- building. A fine Mosaic pavement dug up here Sept. 1723. with many
- coins. I bought a little head which has been broke off from a <i>basso
- relievo</i>, and seems by the <em>tiara</em>, of a very odd shape, like
- fortification work, to have been the genius of a city, or some of
- the <i lang="la">deæ matres</i>, which are in old inscriptions, such like in
- Gruter, p. 92. The gardener told me he had lately found a fine little
- brass image, I suppose one of the <em>lares</em>; but, upon a diligent
- scrutiny, his children had played it away. Mr. Richard Bishop, owner
- of the garden, on a hillock near his house, dug up a vault sixteen
- foot long and twelve broad, supported with square pillars of Roman
- brick three foot and a half high; on it a strong floor of terras: there
- are now several more vaults near it, on which grow cherry-trees like
- the hanging gardens of Babylon. I suppose these the foundations of a
- temple; for in the same place they found several stones of the shafts
- of pillars six foot long, and bases of stone near as big in compass
- as his summer-house adjoining (as he expressed himself): these, with
- cornices very handsomely moulded and carved with modilions, and the
- like ornaments, were converted into swine-troughs: some of the stones
- of the bases were fastened together with cramps of iron, so that they
- were forced to employ horses to draw them asunder; and they now lie
- before the door of his house as a pavement: capitals of these pillars
- were likewise found, and a crooked cramp of iron ten or twelve foot
- long, which probably was for the architraves of a circular portico.
- A Mosaic pavement near it, and intire, is now the floor of his
- privy vault. Mr. Aubury in his MS. coll. says an hypocaust was here
- discovered; and Mr. Tho. Pigot, fellow of Wadham, wrote a description
- thereof. Sometimes they dig up little stones, as big as a shilling,
- with stamps on them: I conjecture they are counterfeit dies to cast
- money in.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_067_1">
- <div class="plateno"><i>32</i></div>
- <div><b><i>The White Fryers in</i> Glocester <i>Aug. 24. 1721.</i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_067_1.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp:</i></div>
- <div class="small"><b>Browne Willys <i>Ar. Reliquias sacras d. d. W<sup>s</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.4em;">.</span> Stukeley.</i></b></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>12·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <div class="smcap large"><b>Glevvm</b></div>
- <img src="images/i_067_2.jpg" alt="">
- </figure>
-
- <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">67</span></p>
-
- <p>We saw a monumental inscription upon a stone at Mr. Isaac Tibbot’s, in
- Castle-street, in very large letters four inches long:</p>
-
- <div class="center large">
- D&nbsp; &nbsp; <img class="iglyph" src="images/i_067.png" alt="">&nbsp; &nbsp; M<br>
- <span class="gesperrt2">IVLIAE &nbsp;CASTAE</span><br>
- <span class="gesperrt2">CONIVGI</span>&nbsp; &nbsp; <img class="iglyph" src="images/i_067.png" alt="">&nbsp; &nbsp; <span class="gesperrt2">VIX</span><br>
- <span class="gesperrt2">ANN</span>&nbsp; &nbsp; <img class="iglyph" src="images/i_067.png" alt="">&nbsp; &nbsp; XXXIII.</div>
-
- <p class="noindent">It was found at a place half a mile west of the town, upon the north
- side of the Foss road, called <em>Quern</em> from the quarries of stone
- thereabouts. Five such stones lay flatwise upon two walls in a row,
- end to end; and underneath were the corpses of that family, as we
- may suppose. He keeps Julia Casta’s skull in his summer-house; but
- people have stole all her teeth out for <em>amulets</em> against the
- ague. Another of the stones serves for a table in his garden: it is
- handsomely squared, five foot long and three and a half broad, without
- an inscription. Another of them is laid for a bridge over a channel
- near the cross in Castle-street. There were but two of them which had
- inscriptions: the other inscription perished, being unluckily exposed
- to the wet in a frosty season: probably, of her husband. Several urns
- have been found thereabouts, being a common burying place: I suppose
- them buried here after christianity. In the church, which is a very
- handsome building of the style of St. Mary’s at Cambridge, are a great
- many ancient brass inscriptions and figures: the windows are full of
- good painted glass: there is a fine lofty tower. Little of the abbey
- is now left, beside two old gate-houses neither large nor good: the
- circuit of it is bounded for a good way by the city walls. East of the
- town about a a quarter of a mile, is a mount or barrow called Starbury,
- where several gold Roman coins have been dug up, of about the time of
- Julian, which we saw: some people ploughing in the field between it and
- the town, south of the hill, took up a stone coffin with a body in it
- covered with another stone. West of the town, behind my lord Bathurst’s
- garden, is another mount, called Grismunds or Gurmonds, of which
- several fables are told: probably raised by the Danes when they laid
- siege to this place.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Glevum.</div>
-
- <p>Hence our journey lay by Stretton over the continuation of the Roman
- road from Crekelade, which appears with a very high ridge and very
- strait for eight miles, to Birdlip hill, prodigiously steep and rocky
- to the north-west, till we came to Glocester, a colony of the Romans.
- The old proverb, <span class="sidenote">TAB XXXII.</span>“As sure as God’s at Glocester,” surely meant the vast
- number of churches and religious foundations here; for you can scarce
- walk past ten doors but somewhat of that sort occurs. <span class="sidenote">TAB. XII. 2d Vol.</span>The western part
- of the cathedral is old and mean; but from the tower, which is very
- handsome, you have a most glorious prospect eastward through the choir
- finely vaulted at top, and the Lady’s chapel, to the east window, which
- is very magnificent: here, on the north side, lies that unfortunate
- king, Edward II. and out of the abundance of pious offerings to his
- remains, the religious built this choir: before the high altar in the
- middle thereof lies the equally unfortunate prince Robert, eldest
- son of William the Conqueror, after a miserable life: but he rests
- quietly in his grave; which cannot be said of his younger brother,
- Henry I. before spoken of at Reading abbey: he has a wooden tomb over
- him, painted with his coats of arms, and upon it his effigies, in
- Irish oak, cross-legged like a Jerusalem knight. The cloysters in this
- cathedral are beautiful, beyond any thing I ever saw, in the style of
- King’s-college chapel in Cambridge. Nothing could ever have made me so
- much in love with Gothic architecture (as called); and I<span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">68</span> judge, for
- a gallery, library, or the like, it is the best manner of building;
- because the idea of it is taken from a walk of trees, whose branching
- heads are curiously imitated by the roof. There are large remains of
- several abbeys of black and white friers, &amp;c. I saw this distich cut in
- wood over an old door of a house:</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza antiqua">
- <div class="i0">Cum ruinosa domus quondam quam tunc renovavit</div>
- <div class="i0">Monachus Urbanus Osborn John rite vocavit.</div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">This city abounds much with crosses and statues of the kings of
- England, and has a handsome prospect of steeples, some without a
- church. Here are several market-houses supported with pillars; among
- the rest a very old one of stone, Gothic architecture, uncommon and
- ancient, now turned into a cistern for water. A mile or two distant
- from the city is a very pleasant hill, called Robin Hood’s: I suppose
- it may have been the rendezvous of youth formerly to exercise
- themselves in archery upon festivals, as now a walk for the citizens.
- By this city, the <em>Glevum</em> of the Romans, the Ricning-street way
- runs from the mouth of the Severn into Yorkshire. I have nothing new as
- to its Roman antiquities; and since that is out of dispute, I hasten to
- Worcester.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Branonium.</div>
-
- <p>It was anciently called <em>Branonium</em>, which the Welsh corrupted
- into <em>Wrangon</em>, prefixing <em>Caer</em>, as was their method; and
- thence our <em>Worcester</em>: it signifies the city <i lang="la">ad frontem
- aquæ</i>. The commandery here, formerly belonging to St. John’s of
- Jerusalem, is now possessed by the hospitable My. Wylde: it is a fine
- old house of timber in the form of a court: the hall makes one side
- thereof, roofed with Irish oak: the windows adorned with imagery and
- coats armorial of stained glass: built for the reception of pilgrims:
- it stands just without the south gate of the city in the London road,
- where the heat of the famous battle happened between king Charles II.
- and Oliver Cromwell. Digging in the garden they frequently find the
- bones of the slain. Above, in the park, is to be seen a great work,
- of four bastions, called the Royal Mount, whence a <em>vallum</em>
- and ditch runs both ways to encompass this side of the city. Here I
- suppose the storm began, when the Royalists were driven back into the
- city with great slaughter; and the king escaped being made a prisoner
- in the narrow street at this gate (as they say) by a loaded cart of
- hay purposely overthrown; by that means he had time to retire at the
- opposite gate to an old house called White Ladys, being formerly a
- nunnery in possession of the family of Cookseys, where he left his
- gloves and garters, which a descendant of that family, of the same
- name, now keeps. The chapel of this nunnery is standing, and has some
- painted saints upon the wall of one end. A mile and half above the
- south gate, on the top of the hill, is the celebrated Perry wood, where
- Oliver Cromwell’s army lay.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote">TAB. XVIII.</div>
-
- <p>The collegiate church is stately enough: in it is buried the restless
- king John; not where now his monument stands in the choir before the
- high altar, but under a little stone before the altar of the eastermost
- wall of the church; on each side him, upon the ground, lie the effigies
- of the two holy bishops and his chief saints Wolstan and Oswald, from
- whose vicinity he hoped to be safe from harm: the image of the king
- likewise I suppose formerly lay here upon the ground, now elevated
- upon a tomb in the choir as aforesaid. There is a large and handsome
- stone chapel over the monument of prince Arthur, son of Henry VII. on
- the south side of the high altar. The cloysters are very perfect, and
- the chapter-house is large, supported, as to its arched roof, with
- one umbilical pillar: it is now<span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">69</span> become a library well furnished,
- and has a good many old manuscripts. There is a large old gate-house
- standing, and near it the castle, with a very high artificial mount or
- keep nigh the river. We met here with an odd instance of a prodigious
- memory, in a person the powers of whose soul are run out (as we may
- speak) intirely into that one; for otherwise his capacity is very weak:
- if we name any passage in the whole Bible, he will immediately tell you
- what book, chapter, and verse, it is in; a truly living concordance.
- Here are a great many churches, and in good repair: one steeple is
- octangular, another is remarkable for its lofty spire. A large bridge
- of six arches over the beautiful Severn, enriched on both sides with
- pleasant meadows. This is a large city, very populous and busy, and
- affords several fine prospects, particularly from Perry wood. No doubt
- but this was a Roman city; yet we could find no remains, but a place in
- it called Sidbury, which seems to retain from its name some memorial of
- that sort.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp70 mb4" id="i_068">
- <div class="plateno"><i>18</i></div>
- <div class="bold"><i>King</i> Johns <i>Monument before the Altar in Worcester Choir.</i></div>
- <img class="illowp50" src="images/i_068.jpg" alt="">
- <div>
- <div class="col40 small"><i>Præhonorabili D<sup>no</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.6em;">.</span>&nbsp; Eduardo<br>
- cultori &amp; fautori</i></div>
- <img class="illowp16" src="images/i_068a.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="col40 small"><i>D<sup>no</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.6em;">.</span>&nbsp; Harley bonarum Artium<br>
- Tabula votiva.</i></div></div>
- <div class="attl"><i>J. Pine sculp.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>W. Stukeley designat</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp70 mb4" id="i_069">
- <div class="plateno"><i>85</i></div>
- <div><span class="large"><b>ARICONIVM</b></span><br>
- <span class="small"><i>9<sup>th</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.5em;">.</span> Sept. 1721.</i></span></div>
- <div class="small mt1 bbox" style="width: 60%;">
- <div class="inline left"><i>Tempus edax Rerum Tuq<sub>ue</sub> Invidiosa Vetustas<br>
- Omnia destruitis. Vitiataq<sub>ue</sub> dentibus Ævi<br>
- Paulatim lenta consumitis Omnia Morte.</i><br><span class="smcap" style="margin-left: 19em;">Ov.</span></div>
- </div>
- <div class="large"><b><i>Kenchester.</i></b></div>
- <div class="small mb2"><i>The City contains 21 Acres.</i></div>
- <img src="images/i_069.jpg" alt="">
- <div>Jacobo Hill Ar. J. C. Vicinæ Civitatis formam consecrat W. Stukeley.</div>
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <p>A Roman road goes hence along the river to Upton, where antiquities
- are dug up, (I take it for <span class="sidenote smcap">Ypocessa.</span><em>Ypocessa</em> of Ravennas) and so to
- Tewksbury, where it meets with the Ricning-street way. A little below
- Worcester a river called Teme falls into the Severn; and many other
- synonymous rivers there are in England, beside the great Thames,
- which shows it a common name to rivers in the old Celtic language,
- and the same with the Greek Ποταμος, the first syllable cut off. A
- little above, a river called Saltwarp falls into the Severn from
- Droitwich, a Roman town, which occurs too in Ravennas under the name
- of <span class="sidenote smcap">Salinis.</span><em>Salinis</em>; and they still make salt at the place. From hence
- I made an excursion to <span class="sidenote smcap">Malvern.</span>Great Malvern, a considerable priory at the
- bottom of a prodigious hill of that name: the church is very large and
- beautiful, with admirable painted glass in all the windows, and several
- old monuments: upon a stone now in the body of the church, but taken
- from without the south side in a garden, which was anciently the south
- wing, this.</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry" lang="la">
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0">PHILOSOPHVS DIGNVS BONVS ASTROLOGVS LOTHERING,</div>
- <div class="i0">VIR PIVS AC HVMILIS MONACHVS PRIOR HVIVS OVILIS</div>
- <div class="i0">HAC IACET IN CISTA GEOMETRICVS AC ABACISTA</div>
- <div class="i0">DOCTOR WALCHERVS FLET PLEBS DOLET VNDIQ. CLERVS</div>
- <div class="i0">HVIC LVX PRIMA MORI DEDIT OCTOBRIS SENIORI</div>
- <div class="i0">VIVAT UT IN CELIS EXORET QVISQ. FIDELIS M. C. XXXV.<a id="FNanchor_49" href="#Footnote_49" class="fnanchor">[49]</a></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">there is a carved stone image, by the south wall of the choir, of
- very rude and ancient workmanship: it is a knight covered with mail
- and his surcoat; in his right hand a halbert like a pick-axe, in his
- left a round target. Here are many coats of arms and cognizances upon
- a glazed sort of brick; such I have seen at other places. A handsome
- gate-house is left, and from the houses in the town you command a very
- noble prospect over Worcester, as far as Edghill, as they tell us: it
- is thought the Malvern has metals in its bowels. We diverted ourselves,
- as we rode through Dean forest, with a house after the primitive style,
- built round an oak tree, whose branches are still green with leaves.
- Vide Vitruv. L. II. C. I. Two thousand years ago, one would have
- suspected it to be a Druid’s.</p>
-
- <p>The city of Hereford probably sprung up from the ruin of the Roman
- <span class="sidenote smcap">Ariconium.</span><em>Ariconium</em>, now Kenchester, three miles off, higher up the
- river Wye, but not very near it; which may be a reason for its decay.
- <span class="sidenote">TAB. LXXXV.</span>Ariconium stands upon a little brook called the Ine, which thence
- encompassing the walls of Hereford falls into the Wye. Two great
- Roman ways here cross each other: one called the Port-way comes
- from <em>Bullæum</em>, now Buelt, in Radnorshire; passing eastward
- by Kenchester, through Stretton, over the <span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">70</span>river Lug, to Stretton
- Grantham upon the Frome, it goes to Worcester: the other road comes
- from the south, and Abergavenny, <em>Gobannium</em>, by Old town formerly
- <em>Blescium</em>; so by Dowre a-cross the Golden vale and Archenfield
- to the river Wye, which it passes at Eaton, where is a Roman camp for
- security, and a bridge for convenience of the passage: thence it goes
- to Kenchester, so northwards by Stretford: this Archenfield seems to
- retain the name of Ariconium. Nothing remaining of its splendour, but
- a piece of a temple probably, with a niche which is five foot high
- and three broad within, built of Roman brick, stone, and indissoluble
- mortar: the figure of it is in the fore-mentioned plate. There are
- many large foundations near it. A very fine Mosaic floor a few years
- ago was found intire, soon torn to pieces by the ignorant vulgar.
- I took up some remaining stones of different colours, and several
- bits of fine potters ware of red earth. Mr. Aubury in his manuscript
- notes says, anno 1670, old Roman buildings of brick were discovered
- under-ground, on which oaks grew: the bricks are of two sorts; some
- equilaterally square, seven or eight inches, and one inch thick; some
- two foot square, and three inches thick. A bath was here found by Sir
- John Hoskyns about seven foot square: the pipes of lead intire; those
- of brick were a foot long, three inches square, let artificially one
- into another: over these I suppose was a pavement. This is an excellent
- invention for heating a room, and might well be introduced among us
- in winter time. In another place is a hollow, where burnt wheat has
- been taken up: some time since colonel Dantsey sent a little box full
- of it to the Antiquarian Society. All around the city you may easily
- trace the walls, some stones being left every where, though overgrown
- by hedges and timber trees. The ground of the city is higher than the
- level of the circumjacent country. There appears no sign of a foss
- or ditch around it. The site of the place is a gentle eminence of a
- squarish form; the earth black and rich, overgrown with brambles,
- oak trees, full of stones, foundations, and cavities where they have
- been digging. Many coins and the like have been found. Mr. Ja. Hill,
- J. C. has many coins found here, some of which he gave to the said
- society. Colonel Dantsey has paved a cellar with square bricks dug
- up here: my lord Coningsby has judiciously adorned the floor of his
- evidence-room with them. This city is overlooked and sheltered towards
- the north with a <span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Credonhill.</span> Br. <i>camp</i>.</span>prodigious mountain of steep ascent crowned at the
- top with a vast camp, which ingirdles its whole <em>apex</em> with works
- altogether inaccessible: it is called Credon hill, seemingly British:
- if you will take the pains to climb it, you are presented with a
- most glorious and extensive prospect, as far as St. Michael’s mount
- in Monmouthshire; bipartite at top, Parnassus-like, and of especial
- fame and resort among the zealots of the Roman creed, who think this
- holy hill was sent hither by St. Patrick out of Ireland, and has
- wonderful efficacy in several cases. On the other hand you see the vast
- black mountain separating Brecknockshire from this county: the city
- Ariconium underneath appears like a little copse. On the other side
- of the Wye you see Dinder hill, whereon is a Roman camp: and upon the
- Lug are <span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Sutton walls.</span> Ro. <i>camp</i>.</span>Sutton walls, another vast Roman camp upon a hill overtopping
- a beautiful vale, the royal mansion of the most potent king Offa,
- but most notorious for the execrable murder of young king Ethelbert,
- allured thither under pretext of courting his daughter, and buried in
- the adjacent church of Marden, situate in a marsh by the river side:
- hence his body was afterwards conveyed to Hereford and enshrined; but
- the particular place we cannot find. I suppose this martyr’s merits
- were obliterated by the succeeding saint,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">71</span> Cantilupe, the great
- miracle-monger on this side the kingdom, as his tutor and namesake
- Thomas Becket was in Kent.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Hereford.</div>
-
- <p>In the north wing of the cathedral of Hereford is the shrine where
- Cantilupe was buried, and which wing he himself built: his picture
- is painted on the wall: all around are the marks of hooks where the
- banners, lamps, reliques, and the like presents, were hung up in his
- honour; and, no doubt, vast were the riches and splendor which filled
- this place; and it is well guarded and barricadoed to prevent thieves
- from making free with his superfluities: the shrine is of stone, carved
- round with knights in armour; for what reason I know not, unless
- they were his life-guard. I saw a book, printed at St. Omar’s, of no
- little bulk, which contained an account of his miracles. The church
- is very old and stately, the roof, ailes, and chapel, have been added
- to the more ancient part by succeeding bishops, as also the towers,
- cloysters, &amp;c. The most beautiful chapter-house of a decagonal form,
- and having an umbilical pillar, was destroyed in the civil wars. I
- saw its poor remains, whence I endeavoured to restore the whole in
- drawing as well as I could, from the symmetry and manner of the fabric,
- which I guess to be about Henry the Sixth’s time: there are about four
- windows now standing, and the springing of the stone arches between, of
- fine rib-work, which composed the roof; of that sort of architecture
- wherewith King’s-college chapel at Cambridge is built: two windows were
- pulled down, a very little while ago, by bishop Bisse, which he used
- in new fitting up the episcopal palace: under the windows in every
- compartment was painted a king, bishop, saint, virgin, or the like;
- some I found distinct enough, though so long exposed to the weather.
- Here are the greatest number of monuments of the bishops I ever saw,
- many valuable brasses and tombs, one of Sir Richard Penbrug, knight of
- the garter, which I drew out for Mr. Anstis: in our Lady’s chapel, now
- the library, a fine brass of Isabella the wife of Richard Delamare, ob.
- 1421. Between the cathedral and episcopal palace is a most venerable
- pile, exceeding it in date, as I conjecture from its manner of
- composure; built intirely of stone, roofed with stone: it consists of
- two chapels, one above the other: the ground-plot is a perfect square,
- beside the portico and choir: four pillars in the middle, with arches
- every way, form the whole: the portico seems to have a grandeur in
- imitation of Roman works, made of many arches retiring inwards: two
- pillars on each side consist of single stones: the lowermost chapel,
- which is some steps under ground, is dedicated to St. Catharine, the
- upper to St. Magdalen, and has several pillars against the wall, made
- of single stones, and an odd eight-square cupola upon the four middle
- pillars: there have been much paintings upon the walls: the arched roof
- is turned very artfully, and seems to have a taste of that kind of
- architecture used in the declension of the Roman empire.</p>
-
- <p>The city of Hereford stands upon a fine gravel, encompassed with
- springs and rivulets, as well as strong walls, towers, and lunettes;
- all which, with the embattlements, are pretty perfect, and enabled them
- to withstand a most vigorous siege of the Scots army under general
- Lesley. The castle was a noble work, built by one of the Edwards
- before the Conquest, strongly walled about, and ditched: there is
- a very lofty artificial keep, walled once at top, having a well in
- it faced with good stone: by the side of the ditch arose a spring,
- which superstition consecrated to St. Ethelbert: there is a handsome
- old stone arch erected over it. Without the walls are the ruins of
- Black Friers monastery, and a pretty stone cross intire; round which
- originally were the cloysters built, as now the cloysters of the
- cathedral<span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">72</span> inclose another such. These crosses were in the nature of
- a pulpit, whence a monk preached to the people <em>sub dio</em>, as is
- now practised once a year in the cloysters of some colleges in the
- universities; and I suppose Paul’s cross in London was somewhat of this
- sort. There was likewise an opulent priory, dedicated to our country
- saint, Guthlac of Crowland, now intirely ruined: the situation of it in
- a marshy place best suited him. White Friers on the other side the town
- is intirely ruined: a gate-house and several other parts were seen by
- many now living. All these religious conventions (as tradition goes)
- had subterraneous passages into the city under the ditch, that the holy
- fraternities might retire from the fury of war, upon occasion.</p>
-
- <p>In our way from Hereford to Leominster we ascended with some difficulty
- the mighty Dynmaur hill, the meaning of which appellation is the great
- hill: it makes us some amends for the tediousness of climbing, by the
- extensive and pleasant prospect it affords us from its woody crest
- commanding a vast horizon.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Leominster.</div>
-
- <p>Leominster is a town of brisk trade in manufactures of their admirable
- wool, in hat-making, leather, and many others; it lies in a valley
- luxuriant above measure. Three rivers of very swift current go
- through the town, besides others very near: nor will the industrious
- inhabitants suffer the water-nymphs that preside over the streams to be
- idle: for with mills, and machinery of various contrivance, they make
- them subservient to many uses in the way of their trades. Here was a
- considerable priory on the north-side of the church, two ailes of which
- are very ancient, and I suppose belonged to the priory: two other ailes
- of more lightsome work have been added. The mayor, who invited us to
- attend him thither, had a long black <em>caduceus</em> to walk withall,
- tipped with silver. <span class="sidenote">TAB. XXII.</span>There are some poor remains of the priory, chiefly
- a little chapel, which I imagine belonged to the prior’s family:
- underneath it runs a pretty rivulet, which used to grind his corn,
- now converted to a fulling-mill: near are very large ponds for fish,
- to furnish the monks on fasting days. There was a fine gate-house,
- pulled down not long since, near the Ambry close, denominated from the
- place (Almery) in which they gave their scraps away to poor people at
- the gate, as I have observed at several other religious houses: this
- is reckoned a great argument of their charity, whilst idle folks lost
- their time in waiting for it. Round the cross built of timber I saw
- this inscription, <i lang="la">Vive deo gratus, toti mundo tumulatus, crimine
- mundatus, semper transire paratus</i>, and some more stuff of that
- sort. In this town the soil is luxuriant above measure: trees of all
- sorts flourish prodigiously: we were surprised at the extravagant bulk
- of plants, leaves of dock as big as an ordinary tea-table, comfry
- leaves as long as my arm. Mr. Gale and I disputed a good while about
- borage quite grown out of cognizance.</p>
-
- <p>We were entertained by my lord Coningsby at his seat of Hampton-court,
- three miles off: at dinner time, one of the ancient bards in an
- adjacent room played to us upon the harp, and at proper intervals threw
- in many notes of his voice, with a swelling thrill, after a surprising
- manner, much in the tone of a flute. This is a fine seat, built by our
- countryman Harry of Bolingbroke, afterwards Henry the Fourth: it is,
- castle like, situate in a valley, upon a rapid river under coverture
- of Dynmaur: the gardens very pleasant, (the finest greens I ever saw)
- terminated by vast woods covering all the sloping side of the hill;
- whose wavy tops, when agitated by the wind, entertain the eye with a
- most agreeable spectacle, and verdant theatric concavity, as high,
- and as far, as you can well see. Here is a great command<span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">73</span> of water,
- on all sides of the house, for fountains, basons, canals: within are
- excellent pictures of the earl’s ancestors, and others, by the best
- hands; Holbein, Dobson, Van Dyke, Sir P. Lely, &amp;c. there is an original
- of the founder, Henry the Fourth, of queen Elizabeth, of the duchess
- of Portsmouth, &amp;c. The windows of the chapel are well painted, some
- images of the Coningsbys: here are two new stone stair-cases after a
- geometrical method, with a view, I suppose, of security from fire: the
- record-room is at top of a tower arched with stone, paved with Roman
- brick; an iron door. From the top of the house goes a stair-case,
- which they say has a subterraneous conveyance into Dynmaur wood;
- which was the method of ancient times to escape the last extremity of
- a siege. After dinner my lord did us the honour to ride out with us
- into the park, which for beauty, diversity, and use, is very fine: it
- is eight miles in circumference, and has all the variety of scenes
- you can imagine; about 1200 head of deer in it: there are extensive
- prospects, on one side reaching into Wiltshire; on another, over the
- Welsh mountains; lawns, groves, canals, hills and plains. There is a
- pool three quarters of a mile long, very broad, included between two
- great woods: the dam that forms it across a valley, cost 800l. and
- was made in a fortnight by 200 hands. There is a new river cut quite
- through the park, the channel of which for a long way together is
- hewn out of the rock: this stream enriches with derivative channels
- vast tracts of land that before was barren. Here are new gardens and
- canals laid out, and new plantations of timber in proper places to
- complete its pleasures; warrens, decoys, sheep-walks, pastures for
- cattle, and the like, intirely supply the house with all necessaries
- and conveniences, without recourse to a market. His lordship showed us
- in his study four or five vast books in manuscript, being transcripts
- out of the record-offices, relating to his manors, royalties, estates
- and muniments, which cost him 500l. in writing and fees: many of his
- galleries and passages are adorned with the genealogy of his family,
- their pictures, arms, grants, history, &amp;c. The Roman road from
- Ariconium to Uriconium lies west of Lemster by Stretford; then passes
- over the Arrow, the Oney, the Lug; so through Biriton, two miles north
- of Lemster, where they dig up the pavement of it, as it runs through
- the grounds, made of squarish rag-stone.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp68 mb4" id="i_072">
- <div class="plateno"><i>22</i></div>
- <div><span class="smcap large"><b>Religiou<i>s</i> Ruin<i>s</i></b></span></div>
- <img src="images/i_072a.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="small"><i>Remnant of the Priory of Leominster Sep. 14. 1722.</i></div>
- <img src="images/i_072b.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="small"><i>Black Fryers in Glocester.<br><span class="small">Aug. 24. 1721.</span></i></div>
- <img src="images/i_072c.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div>
- <div class="small">&amp; Nobilissimo Thomæ Comiti de Coningsby DD.</div>
- </figure>
-
- <p class="clear"><span class="sidenote smcap">Ludlow.</span>Our next expedition was to Ludlow, a place of fame and antiquity, the
- residence of the lords presidents of Wales under the prince. In the
- way hither we found the <i>euonymus pannonicus</i> in the hedges. This
- town is walled quite round, and pretty strong, having five gates,
- situate upon a hill-top, running from south-east with an ascent towards
- north-west, on which, precipitous to the north and west, stands the
- castle. On the south side runs the Teme, fettered with numerous dams
- across, in nature of cataracts; by which means abundance of mills are
- turned: the superfluous water pours over them, cascade-like, with a
- mighty noise. Here is a very good church and handsome tower, with a
- pleasant ring of six bells in the cross thereof: the windows are full
- of painted glass pretty intire: there are some old monuments of the
- lords presidents, &amp;c. and an inscription upon the north wall of the
- choir relating to prince Arthur, who died here: his bowels were buried
- in this place: one told me they took up his heart not long since in a
- leaden box. In the eastern angle of the choir is a closet, anciently
- called the <em>God-house</em>, where the priests locked up their roods,
- wafers, and such things: it has a window strongly barred outward. This
- church is consecrated to St Laurence: and in the market-place is an
- hexagonal cistern, or conduit, like a cross; on the top of which is a
- long stone cross, bearing a niche with an image of that saint in it.
- West of the church was a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">74</span> college, now converted to a dwelling-house,
- whose owner showed us a pretty collection of pictures, one by Holben.
- There was a rich priory out of the town on the north side; small ruins
- now to be seen, except a little adjoining church once belonging to it:
- about the same place an arched gate-way went cross the street, but
- now demolished. The <span class="sidenote">TAB. IV. V.</span>greatest rarity of Ludlow is the noble and strong
- castle and palace, placed on the north-west angle of the town upon a
- rock, commanding a delightful prospect northward; but on the west,
- where runs the river, it is overlooked by a high hill. It is strongly
- environed by embattled walls of great height and thickness, with
- towers at convenient distances: that half which is within the walls
- of the town is secured moreover with a deep ditch; the other founded
- on the solid rock. It is divided into two separate parts; the castle,
- properly so speaking, wherein the palace and lodgings; and the green,
- or out-work, what I suppose they call the Barbican: the first is in
- the strongest or north-west corner, and has likewise walls and ditch
- hewn out of the rock towards the green: this was the residence of the
- lords presidents: it was a noble structure, but now, alas! only groans
- out with its last breath the glories of its ancient state. A chapel
- here has abundance of coats of arms upon the panels; so has the hall,
- together with lances, spears, firelocks and old armour; but the present
- inhabitants live upon the sale of the timber, stone, iron, and other
- materials and furniture, which dwindles away insensibly. Here died
- prince Arthur. The green takes in a large compass of ground, wherein
- was formerly the court of judicature and records, the stables, garden,
- bowling-green and other offices; all which now lie in ruins, or are let
- out at rack-rents to those that pilfer what they can: over several of
- the stable-doors are queen Elizabeth’s arms, the earls of Pembroke’s,
- and others.</p>
-
- <p>Hence we went along the river Teme to Tenbury. In a niche in the
- chancel is a stone, a yard long, of a child of lord Arundel’s of
- Sutton-house, as they say, dressed like a knight, cross-legged: another
- knight cross-legged under the south wall of the church; on his shield
- a chevron between three stars pierced. In the meadow, upon the river,
- a <em>tumulus</em> covered with old oaks, called Castle-mead bower, or burrow.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Bewdley.</div>
-
- <p>Bewdley is a pleasant town by sweet meadows upon the Severn, which is
- the most delightful river I have seen. Here, upon a hill over-looking
- the town, is Tickenhall, built by Henry VII. for his son prince
- Arthur; part of the old palace is standing, of timber-work: here was
- a park too, part of Wire forest. This is a thriving town. A mile off
- is Ribsford, the seat of the lord Herbert of Cherbury, pleasantly
- encompassed with woods. Here is a good picture of William I. earl
- of Pembroke: the ends of the hills toward the river are generally
- rocks. Blackston hill has an hermitage cut out of it, <span class="sidenote">TAB. XIII. XIV.</span>with a chapel
- and several apartments, which I have represented in prospect and
- ground-plot: near it is a pretty rock upon the edge of the water,
- covered with Nature’s beautiful canopy of oaks and many curious
- plants: near the water, upon the rock, <em>liver-wort</em> grows
- plentifully. They dig up coal hereabouts, about twelve yards under
- ground. Kederminster is but two miles off: in the church a cross-legged
- monument of Sir Tho. Acton. In Wulverhampton church are several old
- monuments; a brass statue of Sir Richard Leveson, who fought the
- Spaniards under Sir Francis Drake: there is a very old stone pulpit,
- and a very old stone cross in the church-yard. Was I to chuse a country
- residence for health and pleasure, it would be undoubtedly on the west
- side of the island, not far from this river, and where it is most
- distant from the sea; for natural reasons, which I need not mention to you.</p>
-
- <p class="right">Bewdley, 17 Sept. 1721.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp66 mb4" id="i_074_1">
- <div class="plateno"><i>4</i></div>
- <div><b><i>The North Prospect of Ludlow Castle.</i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_074_1.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>I. Harris Sculp.</i></div>
- <div><i>The Ichnography of Ludlow Castle.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb3" id="i_074_2">
- <div class="plateno"><i>5</i></div>
- <div class="large bold"><i>The West prospect of Ludlow Castle. Sep. 16. 1721.</i></div>
- <img src="images/i_074_2.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="small">Robto Cornwall Barr<sup>tto</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.6em;">.</span>&nbsp; d.d. <i>W. Stukeley</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_074_3">
- <div class="plateno"><i>13</i></div>
- <div><b><i>View of</i> Blackston Cave. <i>River Severn &amp; L<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span>
- Herberts house near</i> Bewdley <i>Sep. 23. 1721</i>.</b></div>
- <img src="images/i_074_3.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp:</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp68 mb4" id="i_074_4">
- <div class="plateno"><i>14</i></div>
- <div class="large bold">HERMITAGES.</div>
- <div><i>The Groundplot &amp; Section of an Hermitage near Bervdley.</i></div>
- <img src="images/i_074_4.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>W Stukeley Del</i></div>
- <div class="small"><i>The Hermitage at Dale Abby</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <div class="chapter">
- <span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">75</span>
- <hr class="full thick">
- <hr class="full mt0">
- <h2 class="nobreak" id="ITER_ROMANUM"><span class="gesperrt2">ITER ROMANUM</span>.&nbsp; &nbsp; V.</h2>
- </div>
-
- <hr class="full">
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry" lang="la">
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0"><i>Salve magna parens frugum Britanica tellus,</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Magna virum! tibi res antiquæ laudis &amp; artis</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Ingredior. Sanctos ausus recludere fontes,</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Antiquum repeto Romana per oppida cursum.</i> <span class="smcap fright">Virg.</span></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Nam quid Britannum cœlum differre putamus.</i> <span class="smcap fright">Lucret. vi.</span></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
- <hr class="full">
-
- <div class="center bold mt3 lh1"><i>To my Lord</i><span class="gesperrt1"> WINCHELSEA</span>.</div>
-
- <p class="drop-cap">THE journey I here present your lordship is intirely Roman; for I went
- from London full northward to the banks of the Humber, upon the famous
- Hermen-street road, passing through Lincoln: then coasting about a
- little, at Lincoln again I took the Foss way to its intersection of the
- Watling-street in Warwickshire: upon that I returned back to London,
- and pursued it to the sea-coasts of Kent: likewise some part of the
- Icening-street, as it crosses the others, where it lay not too far
- out of my main route, was the subject of my enquiry: so that in this
- account is somewhat of all these four great roads of Britain, which our
- old monkish writers make a considerable harangue about, but are scarce
- able fully to distinguish them, and of the reason of their names say
- but little to our satisfaction: but the ways themselves, as drawn quite
- a-cross the island in different directions, are sufficiently manifest
- to a traveller of common sagacity. Though my discoveries herein are
- mean enough, yet I reckon this an happy <em>æra</em> of my life, because,
- the very day before I undertook it, I had the good fortune to be
- known to your lordship, and at the end of it enjoyed the pleasurable
- repose of your delightful seat at Eastwel, but what is more, your own
- conversation: since then your many favours, like all other felicities
- in life, give me uneasiness in the midst of joy, as sensible of my own
- little merit. I have no hope indeed of retaliating; and I know that
- great minds like yours imitate Providence, expecting no return from its
- beneficiaries: but it is consentaneous to human nature to endeavour at
- it, and offer tokens of gratitude, however unequal. The delight you
- take in rescuing the monuments of our ancestors, your indefatigable
- zeal in collecting them, your exquisite knowledge in the Greek, Roman,
- and British antiquities, and especially your great love for those of
- your own country, which you continually commit to writing in your
- private commentaries, add a reputation to these studies, and make the
- Muses hope for a sunshine, when men of your lordship’s noble birth
- entertain them with that familiarity and condescension which was one
- great glory of the Augustan age.</p>
-
- <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">76</span></p>
-
- <div class="sidenote">Roman <em>roads</em>.</div>
-
- <p>For arts military and civil, that became a most wise government, the
- Romans beyond compare exceeded all nations; but in their roads they
- have exceeded themselves: nothing but the highest pitch of good sense
- and public spirit could prompt them to so immense a labour: it is
- altogether astonishing to consider how they begirt the whole globe,<a id="FNanchor_50" href="#Footnote_50" class="fnanchor">[50]</a>
- as it were, with new meridians and great circles all manner of ways; as
- one says,</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry" lang="la">
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0"><i>Magnorum fuerat solers hæc cura Quiritum</i></div>
- <div class="i2"><i>Constratas passim concelebrare vias.</i></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">As well as use, they studied eternity in all their works, just opposite
- to our present narrow souls, who say, It will serve our time well
- enough. For this reason they made few bridges, as liable to decay;
- but fords were laid with great skill and labour, many of which remain
- firm to this day without any reparation. No doubt but the Romans
- gave names to these roads from the commanders under whose government
- and direction they were laid out, as was their custom elsewhere: but
- because they generally held their posts here but for a short time, and
- perhaps scarce any finished one road intirely; therefore, whilst each
- endeavoured to stamp his own name upon them, so it fell out that they
- were all forgotten. The present appellatives seem to be derived either
- from the British or Saxon: William the Conqueror calls them <i>Chemini
- majores</i> in confirming the laws of St. Edward about these four ways.
- All misdemeanours committed upon them were decided by the king himself.
- Though there was no need of paving or raising a bank in some places,
- yet it was done for a perpetual direction; and every where I suppose
- stones were set at a mile’s distance, many of which are still left.
- Of these four celebrated ways, the Foss and Icening-street traverse
- the kingdom from south-west to north-east, parallel to one another:
- the Watling-street crossed them quite the contrary way, with an equal
- obliquity: the Hermen-street passed directly north and south: and
- besides these are very many more. I purpose not to give a full history
- of them here, any farther than I travel upon them, reserving that till
- I am better able.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Hermen-street.</span></div>
-
- <p>Somewhat on the Hermen-street is said already in my first letter
- about Lincolnshire, where it divides itself into two, which we may
- call the old and the new branch. <span class="sidenote">TAB. LVI.</span>Here I design to search it up to
- its fountain-head. As to its name, we have no reason to seek any
- farther than the Saxon language, where <em>Here</em> signifies an army;
- <em>Hereman</em>, a soldier or warriour:<a id="FNanchor_51" href="#Footnote_51" class="fnanchor">[51]</a> the Hermen-street then is
- the military street, in the same propriety the Romans used it. It
- begins at Newhaven, at the mouth of the river Ouse in Sussex, and
- passes on the west side the river through Radmil, probably taking its
- name thence; so through Lewis by Isfield: then it seems to pass over
- the river at Sharnbridge, as we may guess by its name, and so proceeds
- to East Grinsted, but I suppose lost in passing through the great
- woods: then through Surrey it goes by Stane-street, Croydon, Stretham,
- and, by its pointing, we may suppose was designed originally to pass
- the Thames at the ferry called Stangate by Lambeth, where it coincides
- with the Watling-street. Of this I can say nothing yet, having not
- travelled it. There I apprehend the road went before London became
- very considerable; but when the majesty of the place suddenly arose to
- great height, this road, and all others directed this way, deflected a
- little from their primitive intention, <span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">77</span>to salute the <em>Augusta</em>
- of Britain, destined to be the <i lang="la">altera Roma</i>; and this has
- rendered them all obscure near the city. It is generally thought the
- Hermen-street goes hence through Bishopsgate, and along the northern
- road; but I apprehend that to be of much later standing than the
- original one, which goes more on the west. By the quotation I mentioned
- in my first letter, when upon this road, out of Mr. Gale’s Itinerary,
- of Lowlsworth near Bishopsgate, it seems as if it was done in Lollius
- Urbicus his time. The original one perhaps passes through unfrequented
- ways near Enfield and Hermen-street, seeming to retain the old name: on
- the eastern side of Enfield chace, by Bush hill, is a circular <span class="sidenote">Br. <i>camp.</i></span>British
- camp upon an eminence declining south-west; but our ancient road
- appears upon a common on this side of Hertford by Ball’s park, and so
- passes the river below Hertford; then goes through Ware park, and falls
- into the present road on this side Wadesmill,<a id="FNanchor_52" href="#Footnote_52" class="fnanchor">[52]</a> and so to Royston.
- Here must have been several stations upon it, but I see no hope of ever
- retrieving their names: that Hertford is one is reasonable to think, it
- having been ever in the royal demesne, and passing a river at a proper
- distance from London: but in the assignment of <em>Durocobrovis</em>
- here, I take leave to dissent from Camden and other learned men; it
- by no means answers the distances in the Itinerary, or the import of
- the name; the Red Ford, or the Ford of Harts, are fancies without
- foundation: either <i lang="la">trajectus militaris</i> is the meaning, or it is
- the passage of the river Ard, now the Beane: Ardley at the spring-head
- of it: <em>ardh</em> in British is <em>altus</em>.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Icening-street.</span></div>
-
- <p>At Royston the Icening-street crosses the Hermen-street, coming from
- Dunstable going into Suffolk: this about Baldock appears but like a
- fieldway, and scarce the breadth of a coach, the farmers on both sides
- industriously ploughing it up: between Baldock and Icleford it goes
- through an intrenchment, taking in the top of a hill of good compass,
- but of no great elevation: it consists of a <em>vallum</em> only,
- and such a thing as I take to be properly the remains of a British
- <em>oppidum</em>: it is called <span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Wilbury.</span> Br.</span>Wilbury hill, and is said to have been
- woody not intirely beyond memory: this street, quite to the Thames in
- Oxfordshire, goes at the bottom of a continued ridge of hills called
- the Chiltern, being chalk, the natural as well as civil boundaries
- between the counties of Hertford and Bedford, very steep northward.
- Ickleford retains the name of the street, which at this place passes a
- rivulet with a stoney ford wanting reparation. Near Periton church has
- been a castle of Saxon or Norman times, with a keep. These high chalk
- hills, having a fine prospect northward, are covered with a beautiful
- turf like the Wiltshire downs, and have such like barrows here and
- there, and indeed are but a continuation of them quite a-cross the
- kingdom. Near Hexton is a square <span class="sidenote">Ro. <i>camp.</i></span>Roman camp upon a <em>lingula</em>, or
- promontory, just big enough for the purpose: it is very steep quite
- round, except at a narrow slip where the entrance is; double ditched,
- and very <span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">78</span>strong, but land-locked with hills every way, except to
- the north-east, and that way has a good prospect: under it is a fine
- spring: it seems made by the Romans when they were masters of all the
- country on this side, and extending their arms northward. On High downs
- is a pleasant house by a wood, where is a place called Chapel close: in
- this wood are barrows and dikes, perhaps of British original. Liliho
- is a fine plot of ground upon a hill steep to the north-west, where a
- horse-race is kept: from under it goes the Icening-street by Stretley
- to Dunstable. North of Baldoc we visited the camp by Ashwel, taken
- notice of in Camden, called <span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Harbury Banks.</span> Br.</span>Harbury banks: it is of a theatrical form,
- consisting wholly of an <em>agger</em>: though Roman coins have been
- found in it, I am inclinable to think it is earlier than their times.
- Between Calcot and Henxworth, two miles off, several Roman antiquities
- have been dug up this year; many in the custody of my friend Simon
- Degg, esq; he gave me this account of it: some workmen, digging gravel
- for the repair of the great northern road, struck upon some earthen
- vessels, or large urns, full of burnt bones and ashes, but rotten:
- near them a human skeleton, with the head towards the south-east, the
- feet north-west: several bodies were found in this manner not above a
- foot under the surface of the earth, and with urns great or small near
- them, and <em>pateras</em> of fine red earth, some with the impression
- of the maker on the bottom: there were likewise glass lachrymatories,
- <em>ampullas</em>, a <em>fibula</em> of brass, six small glass rings, two
- long glass beads of a green colour, and other fragments.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Salinæ.</span></div>
-
- <p>Northward still upon a high sandy hill, by the bank of the river Ivel,
- is a Roman camp called Chesterton: under it lies the town called
- Sandy, or Salndy, the <em>Salinæ</em> of the Romans in Ptolemy, where
- great quantities of Roman and British antiquities have been found,
- and immense numbers of coins, once a brass <em>Otho</em>, vases, urns,
- lachrymatories, lamps. Mr. Degg has a cornelian intaglia, and a British
- gold coin dug up here, <em>Tascio</em> upon it. Thomas Bromsal esq. has
- a fine silver <em>Cunobelin</em> found here, of elegant work; others of
- Titus, Agrippina, Trajan, Hadrian, Augustus, Antoninus Pius, Faustina,
- Constantius Chlorus, Constantinus Magnus, Carausius, Alectus, Tetricus,
- and many more.<a id="FNanchor_53" href="#Footnote_53" class="fnanchor">[53]</a> His great grandfather, high-sheriff of this county,
- preserved the invaluable Cottonian library from plunder in the time of
- the commonwealth, whilst it was at Stratton in this county, about anno
- 1650. The soil here is sand, perfectly like that on the sea shore. I
- imagine a Roman road passed by this place westward from Grantchester by Cambridge.</p>
-
- <p>Return we to Royston again. Going upon the Icening-street the other
- way, just upon the edge of Cambridgeshire, we come to Chesterford upon
- the river going to Cambridge, near Icleton and Strethal. <span class="sidenote smcap">Camboritum.</span>In July, 1719,
- I discovered the <em>vestigia</em> of a Roman city here: the foundation
- of the walls is very apparent quite round, though level with the
- ground, including a space of about fifty acres: <span class="sidenote">TAB. LIX.</span>great part of it serves
- for a causeway to the public Cambridge road from London: the Crown inn
- is built upon it:<a id="FNanchor_54" href="#Footnote_54" class="fnanchor">[54]</a> the rest is made use of by the countrymen for
- their carriages to and fro in the fields: the earth is still high on
- both sides of it: in one part they have been long digging this wall up
- for materials in building and mending the roads: there I measured its
- breadth twelve foot, and remarked its <span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">79</span>composition of rag stone,
- flints and Roman brick: in a little cottage hard by, the parlour is
- paved with bricks; they are fourteen inches and an half long, and nine
- broad. In the north-west end of the city,<a id="FNanchor_55" href="#Footnote_55" class="fnanchor">[55]</a> the people promised to
- show me a wonderful thing in the corn, which they observed every year
- with some sort of superstition. I found it to be the foundation of a
- Roman temple very apparent, it being almost harvest time: here the
- poverty of the corn growing where the walls stood, defines it to such
- a nicety, that I was able to measure it with exactness enough: the
- dimensions of the cell, or <em>naos</em>, were fifteen foot in breadth,
- forty in length; the <em>pronaos</em>, where the steps were, appeared
- at both ends, and the wall of the portico around, whereon stood the
- pillars. I remarked that the city was just a thousand Roman feet in
- breadth, and that the breadth to the length was as three to five, of
- the same proportion as they make their bricks: it is posited obliquely
- to the cardinal points, its length from north-west to south-east;
- whereby wholesomeness is so well provided for, according to the
- direction of Vitruvius. The river Cam runs under the wall, whence its
- name; for I have no scruple to think this was the <em>Camboritum</em>
- of Antoninus, meaning the ford over this river, or the crooked ford:
- in Lincolnshire we called a crooked stick, the butchers use, a
- <em>cambril</em>.<a id="FNanchor_56" href="#Footnote_56" class="fnanchor">[56]</a> They have found many Roman coins in the city or
- Borough field, as they call it: I saw divers of them. In this parish,
- they say, has been a royal manor: not far off, by Audlenhouse, upon
- an eminence is a great <span class="sidenote">Roman <em>camp</em>.</span>Roman camp called Ringhill; a hunting tower of
- brick now stands upon it. Beyond this the Icening-street goes toward
- Icleworth in Suffolk, <span class="sidenote">TAB. XLV.</span>parting the counties of Cambridge and Essex
- all the way; and almost parallel to it runs a great ditch, viz. from
- Royston to Balsham, called Brentditch, where it turns and goes to the
- river below Cambridge, there called Flightditch. I imagine these to
- be ancient boundaries of the Britons, and before the Roman road was
- made, which naturally enough would have served for a distinction by
- the Saxons, as at other places, had their limits lain hereabouts. Two
- miles both ways of Royston is chalky soil:<a id="FNanchor_57" href="#Footnote_57" class="fnanchor">[57]</a> about Puckeridge it is
- gravelly. On Bartlow hills there is a camp too, castle camps, and Roman
- antiquities found: I am told of three remarkable barrows thereabouts,
- where bones have been dug out. At Hadstok they talk of the skin of a
- Danish king nailed upon the church-doors.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp68 mb4" id="i_078">
- <div class="plateno"><i>59</i></div>
- <div><b><span class="smcap large">Camboritvm.</span><br><span class="small"><i>21. Aug. 1722.</i></span></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_078.jpg" alt="">
- <div><i>Thomæ Bawtre Conterraneo Suo Tabula votiva.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp85 mb4" id="i_079">
- <div class="plateno"><i>45</i></div>
- <div><b><i>The</i> Hunting Tower <i>in the Ro. Camp near</i> Littlebury <i>Aug. 21. 1722.</i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_079a.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="mt1"><b><i>View of</i> Silchester Walls <i>from the N.E. corner Aug. 5. 1722. Ro. Brick &amp; Flint.</i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_079b.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin:</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp:</i></div>
- <figcaption>&amp; Amico Peregrino Bertie Ar. vovet.</figcaption>
- </figure>
-
- <p>Now we shall take along with us the Itinerary of Antoninus in his fifth
- journey; for after he has gone from London toward Colchester, and
- part of Suffolk, he turns into this Icening-street at <em>Icianis</em>,
- which seems to be Icesworth beyond St. Edmundsbury; from whence to
- this <em>Camboritum</em> is thirty-five miles: from thence to Huntingdon
- is just twenty-five, as they are noted; but it is to be supposed that
- the Itinerary went along the Icening-street to Royston, then took the
- Hermen-street; for so the miles exactly quadrate.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Royston.</span> Ro. <i>town</i>.</div>
-
- <p>Royston, as being seated upon the intersection of these two roads, no
- doubt was a Roman town<a id="FNanchor_58" href="#Footnote_58" class="fnanchor">[58]</a> before Roisia<a id="FNanchor_59" href="#Footnote_59" class="fnanchor">[59]</a> built her religious house
- here, and perpetuated her own name upon the Roman, which is now lost;
- and <span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">80</span>this very year they found Roman coins near there: but there seems
- to be the stump of her cross still remaining at the corner of the inn
- just where the two roads meet. The Hermen-street now coincides all the
- way with the common northern road. At Arminton, denominated from it,
- passes another branch of the river going to Cambridge in Armingford
- hundred; so by Caxton, which was probably a baiting-place: there are
- some old works without the town. A red clay begins now. Anno 1721,
- near this road my lord Oxford, digging canals at Wimpole, found many
- bodies, and pieces of iron rusty, the remains of some battle. Wimpole
- is now improved and honoured with his residence, and the noble Harleian
- library.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Durocinonte.</div>
-
- <p>At Godmanchester, or Gormanchester, on this side Huntingdon river,
- the name <em>chester</em> ascertains the Roman <em>castrum</em> to have
- been; nor is there any dispute of it, however critics vary about its
- name, whether <em>Durosiponte</em> or <em>Durocinonte</em>; whether there
- was a bridge, a ferry, or a ford, in most ancient times: no doubt but
- the Romans inhabited both sides of the river, and probably rather at
- Huntingdon, being a much better situation; therefore, as to antiquities
- here found, I hold myself more excusable if at present I have nothing
- to say. Mr. Camden tells us Roman coins have been frequently ploughed
- up at Gormanchester, and Henry of Huntingdon says it has been a noble
- city: but I took notice of a wooden bridge over a rivulet between the
- two towns, which ought not to be forgot, as a grateful and public
- charity, having this inscription.</p>
-
- <div class="center"><b>RO<span class="overline">B</span>TUS COOK EMERGENS AQUIS HOC VIATORIBUS<br>
- SACRUM DD. 1636.</b></div>
-
- <p class="noindent">In Huntingdon is the house where Oliver Cromwell was born: though it is
- new-built, yet they preserved that room in its first state.<a id="FNanchor_60" href="#Footnote_60" class="fnanchor">[60]</a></p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Stukeley.</div>
-
- <p>From hence the Hermen-street goes in a strait line through Great and
- Little Stukeley, so called from the soil, and most anciently written
- <em>Styvecle</em>, signifying a stiff clay.<a id="FNanchor_61" href="#Footnote_61" class="fnanchor">[61]</a> I should be ungrateful
- to my ancestors, not to mention that hence they had their name and
- large possessions in both towns, and many others hereabouts. I have
- the genealogy of them from Herebert be Styvecle, mentioned in Madox
- <cite>Hist. Scaccar. cap.</cite> xiv. <i>fol.</i> 382. <i>mag. rot.</i> 12.
- H. II. <i>rot.</i> 6. Cant. &amp; Hunt. which shows that they had lands
- here before. His descendants of this place have been high sheriffs
- of the counties of Huntingdon and Cambridge more than thirty times,
- and knights of the shire in parliament more than forty times: but I
- remember Lucan says,</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry" lang="la">
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i6">————<i>perit omnis in illo</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Nobilitas, cujus laus est in origine sola.</i></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">81</span></p>
-
- <p class="noindent">In Great Stukeley church is a font of a very ancient make, and in
- the north aile a monumental brass of Sir Nicholas Styvecle: the legend
- round the verge of the stone was kept for some time in the town chest,
- when it was taken off being loose, but now lost: the effigies being
- in the same condition, we carried it to be hung up in the hall now
- belonging to James Torkington esq; whose ancestors married the heiress
- of the family, and now enjoys the estate.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp60 mb4" id="i_081">
- <div class="plateno"><i>17</i></div>
- <div class="smcap large"><b>Inclytus Ailwinus Totius Angliæ Aldermanus<br>
- Fundator Abbatiæ de Ramsey, (In Lapide. 1719.)</b></div>
- <img class="illowp54" src="images/i_081.jpg" alt="">
- <div><b><i>&amp; Amicissimo S. Gale Ar. D.D.</i></b></div>
- <div class="attl"><i>W. Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <p class="clear">The Hermen-street hence becomes notorious by the name of Stangate;
- whence we may conjecture that it was originally paved with stone:
- a mile beyond Little Stukeley it turns somewhat to the right, and
- then proceeds full north and south: near Stilton some parts appear
- still paved with stone: it passes through great woods between the two
- Saltrys, where was a religious foundation of Simon Silvanect II. earl
- of Huntingdon and Northampton; among whose ruins lie buried Robert
- Brus, lord of Anandale in Scotland, and of Cleveland in England, with
- Isabel his wife, from whom the Scottish branch of our royal family is
- descended. Near the road-side Roman urns have been dug up. I thought
- it piety to turn half a mile out of the road, to visit<span class="sidenote smcap">Conington.</span> Conington, the
- seat of the noble Sir Robert Cotton, where he and the great Camden
- have often sat in council upon the antiquities of Britain, and where
- he had a choice collection of Roman inscriptions, picked up from all
- parts of the kingdom. I was concerned to see a stately old house
- of hewn stone large and handsome lie in dismal ruin, the deserted
- <em>lares</em> and the <em>genius</em> of the place fled: by it a most
- beautiful church and tower; in the windows is fine painted glass, but
- of what sort I know not: a poor cottage or two seem to be the whole
- town, once the possession of the kings of Scotland.<a id="FNanchor_62" href="#Footnote_62" class="fnanchor">[62]</a> From those
- woods aforementioned, standing on high ground, you see all over the
- level of the fens, particularly that huge reservoir of water called
- Whitlesey-mere, full of fish, and a very pleasant place in summer
- time, where the gentry have little vessels to sail in for diversion:
- upon this hill Sir Robert Cotton, digging the foundation of a house,
- found the skeleton of a fish twelve foot long. A little to the right
- lies <span class="sidenote smcap">Ramsey.</span>Ramsey, famous for a rich abbey, where every monk lived like
- a gentleman: there is little of it left now, but a part of the old
- gate-house. <span class="sidenote">TAB. XVII.</span>In the yard I saw the neglected statue of the famous Alwyn
- the founder, called alderman of all England, cousin to king Edgar: I
- take this to be one of the most ancient pieces of English sculpture
- which we knew of: the <em>insignia</em> he has in his hand, the keys and
- ragged staff, relate to his office. Anno 1721 many pecks of Roman coins
- were found there. Probably from the name we may conjecture it was a
- Roman town. Near it is Audrey causeway: at the south end of it, in the
- parish of Willingham, a camp of a circular form, large, called Belsar’s
- hills, thought that of William the Conqueror, or his general Belasis,
- when busied in the reduction of the isle of Ely, or Odo Balistarius. A
- Roman pavement found at Ramsey.</p>
-
- <p>Stilton, or Stickleton, analogous to <em>Stivecle</em>, is famous for
- cheese, which they sell at 12d. per pound, and would be thought equal
- to Parmesan, were it not too near us. Beyond here the road is perfect,
- with a ridge upon the open fields, for a long way together: it goes
- pretty near north and south about Stangate; but now it takes a turn
- to the left a little, to avoid the vast fens full before our view. I
- cannot but take notice of the great stones, set at every mile from
- Grantham hither by Mr. Boulter, which he designed to have carried on
- to London. Any thing that assists or amuses travellers is <span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">82</span>most highly
- commendable: hence the good understanding of the ancients prompted them
- to set their funeral monuments by the road side, not crouded round
- their temples: they knew the absurdity of filling the mind with ideas
- of melancholy, at such times as they approached the sacred altars:
- there nought but what is beautiful and great ought to appear, as most
- besuiting the place where we seek the Deity. With them Mercury was
- the god of ways, and the <i lang="la">custos manium</i>. I have often wondered
- that the cheap and easy method of setting up posts with directions at
- every cross road is so little practised; which methinks deserves to be
- enforced by a law: it would teach the carpenters that make them, and
- the country people, to read, with much more emolument to the public
- than some other methods now in vogue: of other uses I need say nothing.
- All the country between Huntingdon river and Peterborough river is
- clay, sand, and gravel; but beyond that to the Humber is stone. At
- Gunwath ferry over Peterborough river is a new bridge, where boats too
- pay a toll; such is the modern way of encouraging trade and navigation.
- The people of Peterborough are ato having their river made
- navigable, out of an absurd notion that it will spoil their trade.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Durobrivis.</div>
-
- <div class="sidenote">TAB. XIII. 2d Vol.</div>
-
- <p>The imperial Itinerary makes 35 miles between the last station,
- <em>Durocinonte</em>, and <em>Durobrivis</em>;<a id="FNanchor_63" href="#Footnote_63" class="fnanchor">[63]</a> but a decimal too much
- is put into the number, for 25 is full enough: it is indeed 25 measured
- miles from Huntingdon river to the Nen at Caster: there is no dispute
- but Chesterton by Caster is the place. Dornford retains somewhat of the
- old name, where the road traversed the river by a bridge (of brass,
- the common people say.) At Chesterton on this side is a large tract
- of ground, called the Castle field, with a ditch and rampart around
- it:<a id="FNanchor_64" href="#Footnote_64" class="fnanchor">[64]</a> the Roman road runs directly through it, and still retains
- its high ridge. I observe every where near the fenny country great
- precaution and strength employed; which seems owing to the incursions
- of the Britons from that part, who, no doubt, retired into these
- fastnesses as their last refuge, when the Roman arms shined all around
- them: and that reason must induce the Romans very early to think of
- draining the country, and rendering it provincial, which was the only
- means of preventing that inconvenience. The Hermen-street beyond the
- river runs for some space along the side of it upon the meadow, then
- turns up with an angle, and proceeds full north. Caster<a id="FNanchor_65" href="#Footnote_65" class="fnanchor">[65]</a> is above
- half a mile from it, upon the hill. I espied a bit of the foundation of
- the wall of the Roman <em>castrum</em> in the street to the north-west
- corner of the church, under the wall of the house where the minister
- lives: it is easily known by the vast strength of the mortar, built
- of the white slab-stone of the country: this <em>castrum</em> then went
- round the church-yard, and took in the whole top of the hill, facing
- the mid day sun. Underneath it lay the city; for below the church-yard
- the ground is full of foundations and Mosaics: I saw a bit of a
- pavement in the cellar of the ale-house (the Boot.)</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry" lang="la">
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i7">———<i>varias ubi picta per artes</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Gaudet humus, suberantque novis asarota figuris.</i> <span class="smcap fright">Stat. Silv.</span></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>13·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span>
- <span class="xsmall" style="vertical-align: top; margin-left: 1em;">over the Quire door in Castor chh.</span></i></div>
- <div><b><i>Prospect of Castor</i>, Durobrivis. <i>11. July. 1724.</i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_082.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">83</span></p>
-
- <p class="noindent clear">They know of many such: particularly at Mr. Wright’s, and in the
- landlord’s garden, is an intire one untouched. Roman coins are found in
- great abundance: I have before me a long and particular catalogue of
- many I have seen of all times, from the consular to the later emperors,
- in brass and silver, but think it a nauseous formality to print them: a
- few I will repeat of the silver.</p>
-
- <table class="small">
- <tbody>
- <tr>
- <td><i>M. poblic</i></td>
- <td>℞</td>
- <td class="tdl">— <i>nus imp.</i></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2"><i>Ant.</i> III. <i>vir</i></td>
- <td class="tdl"><i>leg.</i> VI.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2"><i>Sabin</i></td>
- <td class="tdl"><i>l. titur.</i> the rape of the Sabins.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2"><i>Augustus divi fil.</i></td>
- <td class="tdl"><i>imp</i> x <i>act</i>.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2"><i>Cæsar Augustus pater patriæ.</i></td>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Augusti f. cos. design. princ. juvent.</i> [exergue] <i>Cl. Cæsaris</i></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2"><i>Augustus Cæsar</i></td>
- <td class="tdl">a comet. <i>idus jun.</i></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2"><i>Cæsar</i></td>
- <td class="tdl"><i>l. juli l. f.</i> a chariot drawn by cupids.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2"><i>Hadrian Cos.</i> III.</td>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Ægyptos</i>, a recumbent figure with the <i>sistrum</i>.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2"><i>Theodosius</i></td>
- <td class="tdl"><i>virtus romanorum tr. p. s.</i></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2"><i>Silanus</i></td>
- <td class="tdl"><i>l. f. roma.</i></td>
- </tr>
- </tbody>
- </table>
-
- <p class="noindent">These among more are in the possession of Monsieur Baillardeau.<a id="FNanchor_66" href="#Footnote_66" class="fnanchor">[66]</a> In
- the ploughed fields between the town and the river, toward Ford-green,
- they are often found, with earthen pipes, bricks, and all sorts of
- antiquities: in that field is a tract running quite through, whereon
- corn grows very poorly, which is nothing but a street or road laid
- with a deep bed of gravel: the vulgar have a foolish story about it,
- as at other places, and say that lady Kyneburg cursed it; by whom
- they mean the abbess that built a religious house here, which stood
- eastward of the church: some part of it is still left. This meadow is
- called Norman-gate field, or more properly Dorman-gate, some corrupted
- memorial of the ancient name of the town, which extended itself hither;
- and foundations are found all about here, and innumerable coins, which
- they call Dorman pence: part of this is Berrysted, where antiquities
- are dug up every day. Higher up toward Peterborough is Mill-field:
- Mosaic pavements are there dug up, and other things; and seems to have
- been a little citadel belonging to the town. Part of the church is of
- an ancient fabric, but new modelled: there is a curious inscription
- upon a stone over the choir door thus: (the letters are raised.)</p>
-
- <div class="center">XV<sup>o</sup>. KL<sup>s</sup> MAI. DEDICATIO HVI<sup>s</sup> ECLE<sup>s</sup> A. D. M.<sup>o</sup> CXIIII.</div>
-
- <p class="noindent">it is wrong transcribed in Camden. The steeple stands in the middle
- of the church: the tower is a fine piece of ancient architecture with
- semi-circular arches; I judge the spire of later date. The square well
- by the porch no doubt is Roman; it is curbed with hewn stone: though
- it stands on a hill, yet the water is very high: at the east end of
- the church is a very old cross. Mr. Morton is very copious upon this
- station, in his curious history of Northamptonshire; the inquisitive
- reader will consult him: I only recite such things as I saw, and fear
- being tedious upon such places as admit of no doubt among antiquaries.
- A little higher up the river, near <span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">84</span>Wansford bridge,<a id="FNanchor_67" href="#Footnote_67" class="fnanchor">[67]</a> a gold British
- coin was found, in the possession of Mr. Maurice Johnson, J. C. Anno
- 1720, at Thorp, the seat of Sir Francis St. John, by Peterborough, a
- Mosaic pavement was found: this was undoubtedly a villa of some great
- Roman. In the garden here are some fine antique statues of marble,
- but suffering more from the weather, in this moist situation, than
- from age: in the middle is a Livia of coloss proportion, the wife
- of Augustus: in the four quarters are Diana, Amphion, an orator, a
- gladiator: upon the terrace, an admirable Hercules killing Hydra: in
- the court are two equestrian figures in copper, Henry IV. of France,
- and Don John of Austria: within the house over most of the doors are
- placed busts, Bassianus, Caracalla, &amp;c. these antiquities were of the
- Arundel collection.</p>
-
- <p>Hence I travelled upon the Roman road all the way to Stanford. As it
- rises from the water-side of Peterborough river, and passes over the
- corn-fields, it appears in a lofty ridge called Norman-gate, i. e.
- Dorman-gate; only here and there they have dug great holes in it for
- its materials: it goes forwards to Lolham bridges, by the name of
- Long-ditch, which we treated of before, being its oldest and directest
- road, full north and south. In the reign of Nero all the southern
- part of the island was conquered, and the <em>Brigantes</em> were fast
- friends; so that in his time we may conclude the Hermen-street was made
- as far as Sleford by Catus Decianus the procurator, as we suggested in
- the first letter. But now our journey is by the left-hand new branch,
- and which goes out of the other with an angle in the parish of Upton,
- called the Forty-foot way: almost at Southorp, it is inclosed in a
- pasture; but beyond that you find it again, going by Walcot inclosures,
- then through Bernack fields, winding a little to the left hand till
- it enters Burleigh park: its true line from Walcot corner would pass
- through Tolethorp wood, but the river below Stanford was too broad; so
- it passes through Burleigh park, where its gravel is transferred to
- make walks in the gardens: at Wothorp park-wall it appears again with a
- very high ridge and agreeable sight, descending the valley to Stanford
- river, which it passes a little above the town between it and Tynwell;
- then rises again upon the opposite hill, entering Lincolnshire, with
- its broad and elated crest, till it goes to Brigcasterton: it is
- composed all the way of stone, gravel, and hard materials, got near at
- hand: the common road leaves it intirely from Peterborough river to
- Brigcasterton, crossing it at Wothrop park-wall.<a id="FNanchor_68" href="#Footnote_68" class="fnanchor">[68]</a></p>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Brigcasterton.</span> Ro. <i>town</i>.</div>
-
- <div class="sidenote">TAB. XIV. 2d vol.</div>
-
- <p>Brigcasterton happened most convenient for a station, being ten miles
- from the last, or Durobrivis; but the Itinerary mentions not its name;
- for the distances between them, and likewise to Lincoln, impugn Mr.
- Camden and such as place Causennis here: however, it was fenced about
- with a deep mote on two sides, the river supplying its use on the other
- two; for it stands in an angle, and the Romans made a little curve
- in the road here on purpose to take it in, as it offered itself so
- conveniently, then rectified the obliquity on the other side of the
- town: it consists of one street running through its length upon the
- road: this great ditch and banks are called the Dikes. I saw many coins
- that are found here; and one pasture is called Castle-close at the
- corner: they say the foundation of a wall was dug up there.<a id="FNanchor_69" href="#Footnote_69" class="fnanchor">[69]</a></p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>14·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <div><b><i>Prospect of</i> Brig casterton <i>from the Hermen Street S. of the Town. 13. July 1724.</i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_084.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_085">
- <div class="plateno"><i>20</i></div>
- <div><i><b>Colsterworth Church Lincolnshire</b></i></div>
- <img src="images/i_085.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley Fecit</i></div>
- <div><a href="#t_85">See transcription</a></div>
- </figure>
-
- <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">85</span></p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Colsterworth.</div>
-
- <div class="sidenote">TAB. XX.</div>
-
- <p>Hence the road goes by Stretton, then leaves a little on the left hand
- Colsterworth, highly memorable for being the birth-place of that vast
- genius Sir Isaac Newton, the darling of Nature, who with a sagacity
- truly wonderful has penetrated into the secret methods of all her great
- operations; of whom Lincolnshire may justly boast: and we may say of
- him, with Lucretius, I.</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry" lang="la">
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0"><i>Ergo vivida vis animi pervicit, &amp; extra</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Processit longe flammantia mœnia mundi,</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Atque omne immensum peragravit mente animoque.</i><a id="FNanchor_70" href="#Footnote_70" class="fnanchor">[70]</a></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">On the north wall of the chancel is this monument. <i>Heic jacent
- Gulielmi Walkeri particulæ obiit 1 aug. anno domini 1684. ætat. 61.</i></p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Causennis.</div>
-
- <p>Thirty lesser miles from Durobrivis you come to Paunton,<a id="FNanchor_71" href="#Footnote_71" class="fnanchor">[71]</a> which must
- needs be <em>Causennis</em>: it is indeed twenty seven measured miles,
- the Hermen-street accompanying. This village is at present under the
- hill where the road goes near the spring of the Witham, to which I
- suppose its name alludes, as the present to <em>pant avon</em>: both
- signify the valley of the river in British: perhaps the most ancient
- name of the river was <em>Cavata</em>; whence that part of the country
- that is watered by it assumed the name of Kestevon,<a id="FNanchor_72" href="#Footnote_72" class="fnanchor">[72]</a> importing the
- river Cavata, <em>Cavaut avon</em>; as Lindsey from <em>Lindum</em>: the
- present name Witham, or <em>Guithavon</em>, signifying the separating
- river, as it principally divides these two. Many Roman coins are found
- here, and all the neighbourhood round, and Mosaic pavements, Roman
- bricks, urns and the like, of a curious composition. Mr. Burton speaks
- of a musive pavement.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Ancaster.</span> Ro. <i>town</i>.</div>
-
- <div class="sidenote">TAB. XV. 2d Vol.</div>
-
- <p>The Hermen-street, now called High-dike road, goes along the heath,
- which preserves it from being worn away; and it is a sight highly
- entertaining.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">86</span> The next town it comes to is Ancaster:<a id="FNanchor_73" href="#Footnote_73" class="fnanchor">[73]</a> what was its
- Roman name I know not; but it has been a very strong city, intrenched
- and walled about; as may be seen very plainly for the most part, and
- perceived by those that are the least versed in these searches. The
- bowling-green behind the Red-lion inn is made in the ditch: when they
- were levelling it, they came to the old foundation. At this end of the
- town, where a dove-cote stands, is Castle close, full of foundations
- appearing every where above ground: the ditch and rampire encompass
- it. Here are prodigious quantities of Roman coins found; many people
- in the town have traded in the sale of them these thirty years: they
- are found too in great plenty upon all the hills round the town,
- especially southward, and toward Castle-pits; so that one may well
- persuade one’s self, that glorious people sowed them in the earth like
- corn, as a certain harvest of their fame, and indubitable evidence of
- their presence at this place. After a shower of rain the school-boys
- and shepherds look for them on the declivities, and never return empty.
- I saw an <em>Antoninus Pius</em>, of base silver, found that morning I
- was there: likewise I saw many of Faustina, Verus, Commodus, Gallienus,
- Salonina, Julia Mæsa, Constantius Chlorus, Helena, Maximiana Theodora,
- Constantine the Great, Magnentius, Constans, Tetricus, Victorinus,
- &amp;c.<a id="FNanchor_74" href="#Footnote_74" class="fnanchor">[74]</a> The town consists of one street running north and south along
- the road: there is a spring at both ends of the town, and which, no
- doubt, was the reason of their pitching it at this place; for no more
- water is met with from hence to Lincoln. There is a road on the west
- side of the town, which was for the convenience of those that travelled
- when the gates were shut. On a stone laid upon the church wall I read
- this inscription, in large letters of lead melted into the cavities.</p>
-
- <div class="center gesperrt1">
- PRIEZ: PUR<br>
- LE: ALME<br>
- SIRE: JOHN<br>
- COLMAN<br>
- CHIVALER</div>
-
- <p class="noindent">In the church-yard are two priests cut in stone. This has been a
- populous place; for here are great quarries about it, and the rock lies
- very little under the surface. Mr. Camden speaks of vaults found here;
- and W. Harrison, in his description of Britain, II. 17. mentions Mosaic
- pavements.<a id="FNanchor_75" href="#Footnote_75" class="fnanchor">[75]</a> The road seems to bend somewhat in this part, which I
- conjecture was with an intent to take in the springs.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>15·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <img src="images/i_086.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div>
- <div><b><i>Prospect of</i> Ancaster. <i>Iuly 20. 1724.</i></b></div>
- </figure>
-
- <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">87</span></p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Hunington.</div>
-
- <div class="sidenote">Ro. <i>camp</i>.</div>
-
- <p>A mile and half off to the west, in the parish of Hunnington, upon
- a hill surveying a lovely prospect, both toward the sea-coast, and
- into Nottinghamshire, is a summer camp of the Romans, or a <i lang="la">castrum
- exploratorum</i>, of a square form and doubly trenched, but of no great
- bulk: the entrance seems to have been on the east side. Not long ago,
- in this place, have been dug up, in ploughing, bits of spears, bridles
- and swords, and two urns full of coins: I saw a large brass one of
- Agrippa, and Julia daughter to Augustus, with many more, in possession
- of the Rev. Mr. Garnon of North Witham: his daughter gave me a score of
- them at Newark, Dec. 1728. Mr. Banks, 1735, digging for his new house
- at Ancaster, found much Roman antiquity.</p>
-
- <p>All the way from this road, upon Ancaster heath, we have a view of
- the sea, and the towering height of Boston steeple. A little further
- we come to a place, of no mean note among the country people, called
- Byard’s Leap, where the Newark road crosses the Roman: here is a
- cross of stone, and by it four little holes made in the ground: they
- tell silly stories of a witch and a horse making a prodigious leap,
- and that his feet rested in these holes, which I rather think the
- boundaries of four parishes: perhaps I may be too fanciful in supposing
- this name a corruption of <i lang="la">vialis lapis</i>. I mentioned before,
- that here I apprehended the Roman road from the fen country passed
- down the hill toward <em>Crocolana</em>. Upon our road there are many
- stones placed; but most seem modern, and like stumps of crosses, yet
- probably are mile-stones: it would be of little use to measure the
- intervals; for one would find that the whole distance between two towns
- was equally divided by such a number of paces as came nearest the
- total. Over-against Temple-Bruer is a cross upon a stone, cut through
- in the shape of that borne by the knights Templars, and I suppose a
- boundary of their demesnes: some part of their old church is left, of a
- circular form as usual. <em>Bruer</em> in this place signifies a heath.
- The Hermen-street hereabout is very bold and perfect, made of stone
- gathered all along from the superficial quarries, the holes remaining.
- I observed, whenever it intercepts a valley of any considerable
- breadth, whose water must necessarily drain past it, there is an
- intermission left in the road; for otherwise their work would be vain:
- and the ends of the road are flaunted off neatly for that purpose,
- laying perhaps a small quantity of solid materials to vindicate the
- track, and not hinder the voidance of the rain: it goes perfectly
- strait from Ancaster to Lincoln full north, butting upon the west side
- of Lincoln town. A <em>tumulus</em> some time upon the centre of it: it
- is notorious from hence that the intent of these roads was chiefly
- to mark out the way to such places in the march of their armies; for
- there can be no need of a causeway for travellers, the heath being
- so perfectly good; and that our English word <em>highway</em> is hence
- derived, and applied to public ways. When we come to the towns upon the
- cliff side, they have ploughed up this barren ground on both sides the
- road, and basely lowered it for miles together, by dragging the plough
- a-cross it at every furrow; so that every year levels it some inches,
- and, was it not a public road, it would soon be quite obliterated.
- Here are six villages on the left hand, at a mile distance each, and a
- little off the road, which make an agreeable prospect. Just descending
- Lincoln hill, I saw the true profile of the road broke off by the
- wearing away of the ground: it is about thirty foot broad, made of
- stone piled up into an easy convexity: there is likewise generally a
- little trench dug in the natural earth along both sides of the road,
- which is of great use in conducting the water<span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">88</span> that falls from the
- heavens into the vallies upon the long side of the road both ways, and
- prevents its lodging and stagnating against the side of their work: the
- turf that came out of those trenches they threw upon the road to cover
- it with grass: thus had they all the curious and convenient ways for
- beauty, use, and perpetuity.<a id="FNanchor_76" href="#Footnote_76" class="fnanchor">[76]</a></p>
-
- <p>Below the hill the Hermen-street meets with the Foss, which now united
- march directly up to the city, across a great vale where the river
- Witham runs, by Mr. Baxter thought the <em>Victius</em> of Ravennas: Mr.
- Leland calls it <em>Lindis</em>. As it descends towards Boston, it is
- besieged, as it were, by religious houses, planted at every mile; such
- as Nocton priory, founded by Robert D’arci, lord of the place, 1164.
- now the elegant seat of Sir William Ellys, bart. Kyme priory, founded
- by Philip and Simon de Kyme, knts. to which the Tailboyses added, who
- married the heiress; Barlings abbey, founded by Ralph de Hay, and his
- brother Richard; Stanfield, the seat now of Sir John Tyrwhit, bart.
- Bardney abbey built by king Ethelred, who was buried here anno 712.
- much added by Remigius bishop of Lincoln; Tupholm, founded by Rob. de
- Novavilla; Stikeswold priory of the Benedictine nuns; <span class="sidenote">TAB. XXVIII.</span>Kirksted abbey,
- by Hugh de Breton, whose ichnography is discoverable from its ruins;
- Revesby abbey, by William de Romara.</p>
-
- <p>I think it not worth while, in a Roman journey, to dwell upon these
- places, and haste up hill to Lincoln,<a id="FNanchor_77" href="#Footnote_77" class="fnanchor">[77]</a> a great and most famous city
- of theirs, graced with the title and privilege of a<span class="sidenote smcap">Lindum.</span> colony; therefore
- called <i lang="la">Lindum colonia</i>; a bold and noble situation upon a <span class="sidenote">TAB. LXXXVIII.</span>high
- hill, which we may think no less than five cities united into one; of
- all which I shall give a short account in their order, as to what I
- observed, without transcribing such matters as the reader will find
- better delivered in authors. My business is to illustrate the <a href="#i_088_2">88th
- Plate</a>, which I made by pacing as I walked about the city, intended to
- give the idea of the place as formed originally by the Romans, and of
- their roads leading to and from it. <span class="sidenote">1.</span>Below the hill, and westward of
- the city, the river throws itself into a great pool, called Swan pool
- from the multitude of swans upon it. All around this place the ground
- is moory, and full of bogs and islets, called now Carham, which means
- a dwelling upon the <em>car</em>, that is, the fen. Now here, without
- question, was the British city in the most early times, where they
- drove their cattle backwards and forwards, and retired themselves into
- its inaccessible securities; and from thence I apprehend the name
- of <em>caer</em>, signifying a fortification or inclosure in all the
- most ancient languages, came in this country to be retained in these
- morasses: this was its name as a dwelling, or a collection of native
- inhabitants; but the pool in their language was called <em>lhyn</em>,
- and that denominated the Roman city <em>Lindum</em>, being the hill
- hanging over this pool. From this Carham you have a pleasant view of
- the west front of the cathedral. The shape of the pool is thought very
- much to resemble a <span class="sidenote">2.</span>map of England, when you survey it from the top of
- the cathedral. The Romans, pleased with this notable eminence, placed
- their city upon it, which they first built in the form of a large
- square, the southern wall standing upon the precipice or edge of the
- hill, and wanted no other external fence: quite round the other three
- sides they carried a deep trench too, which still remains, except on
- the south-east angle. This city was divided into four equal parts, by
- two cross streets that cut it quite through upon the cardinal<span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">89</span>
- points: the two southern quarters were taken up, one by the castle,
- the other by the church which Remigius built; but, when Alexander the
- bishop projected a structure of much larger dimensions, they carried
- the sacred inclosure beyond the eastern bounds of the city, and so
- built a new wall farther that way, as it is now, with battlements
- and towers. The north and south Roman gates of this part of the city
- remain; the one intire, the other pulled down about fifteen years ago
- by Mr. Houghton: the northern, called Newport gate,<span class="sidenote">TAB. LIV</span> is the noblest
- remnant of this sort in Britain, as far as I know. Upon the first sight
- of it I was struck with admiration, as well of its noble simplicity,
- as that hitherto it should not have been taken notice of: it is a vast
- semicircle of stones of very large dimensions, and, by what I could
- perceive, laid without mortar, connected only by their cuniform shape.
- This magnificent arch is sixteen foot diameter, the stones four foot
- thick at bottom: from the injuries of time, but worse of hands, it
- is somewhat luxated, yet seems to have a joint in the middle, not a
- key-stone: on both sides, towards the upper part, are laid horizontal
- stones of great dimensions, some ten or twelve foot long, to take off
- the side pressure, very judiciously adapted. This arch rises from
- an impost of large mouldings, some part of which, especially on the
- left-hand side, are still discoverable: below on both sides was a
- postern, or foot passage, made of like stones; but against that on the
- left side is a house built, and when I went down into the cellar I
- found a chimney set before it. The ground here in the street has been
- very much raised, and the top of the wall is of a later workmanship:
- it is indeed a most venerable piece of antiquity, and what a lover of
- architecture would be hugely delighted withall. They that look upon
- a gate among the vestiges of the <em>forum</em> of Nerva at Rome, will
- think they see the counterpart of this; but, of the two, this has the
- most grandeur in aspect: the drawing supplies any further harangue
- about it. From this gate eastward, some part of the old Roman wall
- is to be seen by a pasture, made of stone and very strong mortar:
- thereabout too are some arches under ground. The west gate toward the
- gallows was pulled down, not beyond memory: that on the south side,
- which I spoke of, still shows one jamb from between the houses, and
- two or three stones of the same make as the former, just above the
- springing of the arch: if you go up stairs in the adjoining house
- within the city, you may see the postern on the east side, which is big
- enough for a bed to stand in. I doubt not but there is, or was, another
- answerable on the other side; but this street is much contracted from
- its original breadth by the subsequent populousness of the place; and
- the ground here, being upon the edge of the hill, is much worn down,
- as the first is heaped up, from the condition of former ages. But by
- Newport gate before described, is another large and curious remnant of
- Roman workmanship: this is called the Mint wall, and stands in a garden
- in the north-west quarter of the city: it is still sixteen foot high,
- above forty foot long, and turned again with an angle: on the left-hand
- side behind it are houses built and marks of arches. What it was
- originally cannot now be affirmed; the composition of it is thus: upon
- squared stone of the common sort, but a little decayed through age, is
- laid a triple course of Roman brick, which rises one foot in height;
- the bricks seem to be a Roman foot long, and our seven inches broad:
- above this three courses of stone, which rise about a foot more; then
- three layers of brick, as before; upon that twelve courses of stone,
- then brick and stone to the top: the scaffold-holes are left all the
- way: the mortar is very hard, and full of little pebbles.</p>
-
- <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">90</span></p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="mb4" id="i_088_1">
- <div class="plateno"><i>28</i></div>
- <div><b>RELIGIOVS.</b></div>
- <img class="illowp75" src="images/i_088_1a.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="col50 small"><b>Remains <i>of the Church at</i> Kirsted Abbey <i>Linc. 1716</i>.</b></div>
- <div class="col50 small"><b><i>The Gate house of</i> Tupholm Abbey <i>Linc.</i></b></div>
- <div class="small mt2"><b>The Ichnography of the Monastery of <i>Kirsted</i> Linc.</b></div>
- <div class="figcenter illowp73">
- <img src="images/i_088_1b.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="mb4" id="i_088_2">
- <div class="plateno"><i>88</i></div>
- <div><b><span class="large">LINDVM Colonia.</span><br><i class="small">4 Sep. 1722.</i></b></div>
- <img class="illowp66" src="images/i_088_2.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="small"><b>Josepho Banks Jun. Ar. <i>Tabulam</i> D.D. W<sup>s</sup>. Stukeley.</b></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="mb4" id="i_089">
- <div class="plateno"><i>54</i></div>
- <div><span class="large"><b>Worth Gate (<i>a Roman Work</i>) Canterbury</b></span><br><i>6. Oct. 1722.</i></div>
- <img class="illowp75" src="images/i_089a.jpg" alt="">
- <hr class="r75 clear mt0 mb1">
- <div><span class="large"><b><span class="smcap">Newport Gate</span> at <span class="smcap">Lincoln</span></b></span><br>
- Sept. 3. 1722.<br><i>The Arch of Roman Work</i></div>
- <img class="illowp75 mt0" src="images/i_089b.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="small mtneg"><i>Stuk<sup>e</sup>ley delin. &amp; Amicissimo Conterraneo Mauritio Johnson Ar.
- Interioris Templi J.C. offert.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <div class="sidenote">3.</div>
-
- <p>But this city being happily seated for navigation of the river, and the
- chief thoroughfare to the north, soon increased to that degree, that
- the Romans were obliged to add another to it as big as the former: this
- they did southward upon the declivity of the hill, and so tallied it to
- the other, that the new side-walls answered in a parallel to the old,
- and the most southern lay upon the river. Eastward the ditch without
- is turned into a broad street called the Beast-market, and there below
- Claskgate a great part of the old Roman wall is left, made of stones
- piled sideways, first with one direction, then with another, as was
- a common method with them: one piece of it is now eighty foot long,
- eighteen high; a little bit of it lower down is twelve foot long, as
- much high: between that gate upwards and the old city-wall, by the
- Greestone stairs, is the old ditch to be seen, much talked of, but not
- understood: it is called Weredyke. The people have a notion that the
- river came up here, and that these stairs were a landing-place from
- the water-side, and denominated from I know not what Grecian traders:
- but this is utterly impossible in nature. To the west the ditch and
- foundation of the wall is still left, though many times repaired and
- demolished in the frequent sieges this town has sustained, especially
- in the wars of Maud the empress: at the bottom of it, towards the
- water, is a round tower called Lucy tower, and famous in her history.
- This then was the state of this place in Roman times: the Foss and
- Hermen-street entered the city at Stanbow, or the stoney arch; there
- they parted: the Hermen-street went directly up the hill, and so full
- north through Newport; the Foss, according to its natural direction,
- ascended it obliquely on the eastern side without the ancient city, and
- so proceeded to the sea coast north-east.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote">4.</div>
-
- <p>But still here were two more great additions to the length of this
- city, and which stretched it out to an enormous bulk; the first
- northwards above the hill: it is called Newport, or the new city,
- 500 paces long. This I apprehend to have been done in the reign of
- the Saxon kings: it lies on both sides the Hermen-street, and was
- fenced with a wall and ditch hewn out of the rock: at the two farther
- corners were round towers and a gate, the foundations of which remain:
- there were several churches and religious houses in this place; and
- I suppose it was chiefly inhabited by Jews, who had settled here in
- great numbers, and grown rich by trade: there is a well still called
- Grantham’s well, from a child they ludicrously crucified and threw into
- that well.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote">5.</div>
-
- <p><a id="FNanchor_78" href="#Footnote_78" class="fnanchor">[78]</a>After the Norman conquest, when a great part of the
- first city was turned into a castle, I apprehend they added the last
- intake southward in the angle of the Witham, and made a new cut, called
- Sinsil dike, on the south and east side, for its security. The city
- then being of this huge compass, gave occasion for that prophecy, as
- they call it, and fancy to have been fulfilled in the year 1666:</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0">Lincoln <i>was</i>, London <i>is, and</i> York <i>shall be</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>The fairest city of the three</i>.</div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">It is observable that the Normans could not well pronounce
- <em>Lincoln</em>, but called it <em>Nichol</em>, as we find it in some
- old writers; and to this day a part of <em>swan</em> pool is called
- <em>nichol</em> pool: in some places of Lincolnshire the vulgar pronounce
- <em>little</em>, <em>nickle</em>, and some other words of that sort. Though
- this place is much declined since those times, yet of late it begins
- to flourish again very considerably. The meaning of <em>grecian</em>
- stairs I suppose borrowed from the Normans, importing only stone steps
- (<em>grees</em>) as they appear <span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">91</span>at this day, a commodious descent from
- the minster yard. Within this two years, two new churches, large and
- fair, have been built at the charge of the inhabitants, and a great
- many handsome dwelling-houses: trades and manufactures too reflourish.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp68 mb4" id="i_091">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>64·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <div class="large"><b><span class="smcap">Roman Inscriptions</span></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_091.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>I Harris Sculp</i></div>
- <div><a href="#t_091">See transcription</a></div>
- </figure>
-
- <p><a id="FNanchor_79" href="#Footnote_79" class="fnanchor">[79]</a>In this last part of the city, on both
- sides the Roman road, were many funeral monuments of the old Romans;
- some of which they now dig up, and doubtless much more when they first
- built upon this ground. I saw a pit where they found a stone with an
- inscription, this summer: through age and the workmen’s tools it was
- defaced, only small remains of D. M. &amp; VIX. ANN. XXX. such letters as
- showed its intent, with carvings of palm-trees, and other things: this
- is behind the house where the lord Hussey was beheaded for rebellion in
- the time of Henry VIII. the great bow window through which he came upon
- the scaffold was taken down this year: it stands over-against another
- stone building, of an ancient model, said to be the palace of John
- of Gaunt, duke of Lancaster, who lived here in royal state, and had
- the privilege of coining: his arms are here carved in stone. Upon the
- steeple of St. Mary’s church they have placed in the wall an ancient
- monumental stone, with this imperfect inscription:</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry" lang="la">
- <div class="stanza gesperrt1" lang="la">
- <div class="i0">DIS MANIBVS</div>
- <div class="i0">NOMINI SACRI</div>
- <div class="i0">BRVSCI FILI CIVIS</div>
- <div class="i0">SENONI ET CARIS</div>
- <div class="i0">UNAE CONIVGIS</div>
- <div class="i0">EIUS ET QVINTIE.</div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">There is another obscure inscription upon the upper part of the stone,
- but has been added since, and is christian. Upon the church-wall lies
- an old stone by the conduit, which Leland takes notice of, and says is
- Ranulf de Kyme. Immense are the Roman antiquities dug up about this
- famous colony: nor has the perpetual turning up the ground exhausted
- them. The late Dr. Primrose had a great collection: I remember to have
- seen a fine glass urn in his possession, now with Martin Folkes, esq;
- found near Newport gate; also a very large silver seal of one of the
- Quincys earls of Lincoln, now with Nevil King, esq. Wm. Pownal, esq;
- has many coins very well preserved, particularly a Carausus with his
- wife on the same coin, which is a great rarity. I am in hopes he will
- some time favour the learned with an accurate account of this place,
- as it highly deserves. Upon the Roman road eastward are some barrows:
- many urns, and the like, have been dug up about them, especially near
- the stone pits, with earthen aqueducts, and all kinds of antiquities.
- Mr. Pownal showed me a brass <em>armilla</em>, found with a corpse
- which possibly was British.<a id="FNanchor_80" href="#Footnote_80" class="fnanchor">[80]</a> Upon the road going to Staynton, is
- an hospital of St. Giles, built by Remigius; and behind it are great
- cavities in the rock under ground, which people fancied to be Roman
- <span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">92</span>catacombs, and affirmed they had seen earthen and brazen pots,
- inscriptions and the like, with many other strange stories: to search
- this matter thoroughly, provided with torches, we traced them to the
- utmost corners, but found them only quarries. Let us now survey the
- cathedral. It is far more magnificent than any I have yet seen: there
- are two great gate-houses or entrances to it from the west: the lower
- part of the front, and of the two towers, are of Remigius his building,
- as is easily discoverable by the colour of the stones, and by the
- manner of architecture: but Alexander built the additions upon it, the
- body of the cathedral, the choir and St. Mary’s tower, which once had a
- very lofty spire upon it; a prodigious work for a single man, and that
- not the only one, as appears by what we have mentioned of him. St. Hugh
- the Burgundian built the east end, or<span class="sidenote">TAB. XXIX.</span> St. Mary’s chapel, where he had a
- shrine; and the chapter-house cieled with a beautiful stone roof, one
- pillar in the middle. The cloysters and the library are fine: here are
- many books and manuscripts, and an old leaden inscription of William
- d’Agincourt, cousin to Remigius, already printed. Here are many bells,
- particularly one remarkably large, called <em>Tom of Lincoln</em>, which
- takes up a whole steeple to itself; probably consecrated to that great
- champion of the church, St. Thomas of Canterbury, the first cathedral
- mentioned in Bede; I suppose an humble building, and contained within
- the ancient walls. Two Catharine-wheel windows, as called, at the ends
- of the larger transepts, are remarkably fine for mullion-work and
- painted glass. Here are great numbers of ancient brasses and monuments:
- one I have engraven from a drawing procured by Browne Willys, esq;
- <span class="sidenote">TAB. XVI.</span>Tab. 16. the stone only is left near the west door. To set down the
- particularities of the church would require a volume. South of it, upon
- the very brow of the hill, is the bishop’s palace, built by Robert
- de Chesney, who gave two great bells likewise: bishop Bek and other
- successors enlarged it to a magnificence equal with the cathedral: it
- stands just south of the Roman wall; a very expensive work, for the
- foundations of it reach, as it were, below hill: over this hung many
- large bow windows of curious workmanship, looking over the tops of the
- lower city into Nottinghamshire: the kitchen had seven chimneys in it:
- the hall was stately: the gate-house remains intire, with coats of arms
- of the founders. This palace was ruined in the time of the civil wars:
- good part of it might be handsomely rebuilt without an extravagant expence.</p>
-
- <p>In Leland’s time one of the stone crosses of queen Eleanor was here
- standing in the market place: it were endless to enumerate the
- religious houses, gates, and old buildings, that croud up every part
- of the streets. Here were originally fifty two churches. I never saw
- such a fund of antique speculations in any town in England: I heard
- continually of coins and urns found all the country over, as at
- Cathorp, Methringham, Nocton, &amp;c. I found this inscription on a stone
- in the stable wall of the Rein-deer inn.</p>
-
- <p class="noindent antiqua">+RANDOLF: DE: BORTON: GYT: ICY: DEUI: DE: SA: ALME: AYT: MERCY: AMEN.</p>
-
- <p class="noindent">This castle of William the Conqueror’s is a large place, and
- exceedingly strong with walls, ditches, keep, and towers: over against
- it westward is an intrenchment made by king Stephen.</p>
-
- <p>Through the whole length of Lincolnshire, from north to south, in
- a strait line runs a ledge of hills, that is, from Stanford to
- Winteringham: the Romans, observing this, carried their road upon
- it, and left the original stem of Fokingham. This high ground is
- similar all along, having a steep descent westward, overlooking
- Nottinghamshire, and is a rock of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">93</span> rag-stone quite through; the
- stone is white, and rises in <em>strata</em>, thicker as deeper: the
- surface is heathy. The river Witham, which rises on the west of this
- ridge, must have run into the Humber, had not Nature, by her propensity
- of drawing it eastward, as her declivities generally run, broke it off
- in the middle by that great valley under Lincoln, and made a passage
- for it into the estuary. Hence it is that the stone upon this western
- cliff is full of sea-shells; for, when the great and universal deluge
- had carried those inhabitants of the ocean into the mediterranean
- parts, by the weight of their shells they were unapt to retire again
- along with the waters, so were intercepted against this cliff, and
- received into the nascent stone.<a id="FNanchor_81" href="#Footnote_81" class="fnanchor">[81]</a> A remarkable antediluvian
- curiosity I procured for the repository of the Royal Society, from
- these parts; being the real skeleton of a crocodile, or some such
- animal, inclosed in a broad flat stone. But now it is time to proceed.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp65 mb4" id="i_092_1">
- <div class="plateno"><i>29</i></div>
- <div class="bold"><i>The Shrine of S<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span></i> Hugh <i>the Burgundian</i>
- Bishop <i>of</i> Lincoln. <i>In the South Isle of the Cathedral there behind the Choir.</i></div>
- <img src="images/i_092_1.jpg" alt="">
- <div>Reverendo Doctissimoq<sub>ue</sub> Laurentio Echard <i>dicata</i>.</div>
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="mb4" id="i_092">
- <div class="plateno"><i>16</i></div>
- <img class="illowp58" src="images/i_092_2.jpg" alt="">
- <div><a href="#t_092">See transcription</a></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_093">
- <div class="plateno"><i>87</i></div>
- <div><b><span>AGELOCVM.</span><br><i>Sep. 1722.</i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_093.jpg" alt="">
- <div><a href="#t_093">See transcription</a></div>
- </figure>
-
- <p>The Hermen-street going northward from Lincoln is scarce diminished,
- because its materials are hard stone, and the heath on both sides
- favours it: three miles off, near a watering-place, a branch divides
- from it with an obtuse angle to the left, which goes towards Yorkshire.
- We suppose the Romans at first had an erroneous idea of the island of
- Britain, and thought its northern parts in a more easterly longitude
- than by experience they found; and thus in Ptolemy’s maps the length
- of Scotland is represented running out enormously that way: but when
- Agricola, in his conquests northward, had discovered that mistake,
- and that the passage over the Humber was very incommodious for the
- march of soldiers, he struck out this new road, as another branch of
- the Hermen-street, by way of Doncaster, from thence observing its
- natural direction northward. When we turn ourselves here, and look
- back to Lincoln, we see the road butts upon the western spires of the
- cathedral: and when from thence you survey the road, it is an agreeable
- prospect; your eye being in the middle line of its whole length to the
- horizon. I had a mind to pursue this branch through Lincolnshire as far
- as the first station, <em>Agelocum</em>: this ridge is likely to be of
- an eternal duration, as wholly out of all roads: it proceeds directly
- over the heath, then descends the cliff through the rich country at
- bottom, between two hedge-rows, by the name of Tilbridge lane. When you
- view it on the brink of the hill, it is as a visto or avenue running
- through a wood or garden very strait, and pleasanter in prospect than
- when you come to travel it; wanting a Roman legion to repair it. You
- pass through Stretton and Gate-Burton, so called from the road, and by
- a ferry cross over the Trent, which lands you at</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Agelocum.</div>
-
- <div class="sidenote">TAB. LXXXVII.</div>
-
- <p>Littleborough, <em>Agelocum</em>, or, as by later times corrupted, with
- a <em>sibilus</em>, into <em>Segelocum</em>.<a id="FNanchor_82" href="#Footnote_82" class="fnanchor">[82]</a> This is a small village
- three miles above Ganesborough, just upon the edge of the water,
- and in an angle. <em>Agel auk</em>, <em>frons aquæ</em>, is a pertinent
- etymology: it seems only to have been environed with a ditch, and of a
- square form, and the water ran quite round it; for to the west, where
- White’s bridge is, a watery valley hems it in: so that it was a place
- sufficiently strong. The church stands upon the highest ground. The
- Trent has washed away part of the eastern side of the town. Foundations
- and pavements are visible in the bank. Mr. Roger Gale, passing by,
- once found an urn there, with a coin of Domitian’s: great numbers of
- coins have been taken up in ploughing and digging: they called them
- swine-pennies, <span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">94</span>because those creatures sometimes root them up, and
- the inhabitants take little care to save them. I saw a few there: the
- reverend Mr. Ella, vicar of Rampton hard by, has collected several, and
- some valuable, such as the following, of which he sent me an account.</p>
-
- <p>A consecration piece of Vespasian. Cos. IIII.</p>
-
- <p>IMP CAES NERVAE TRAIANO AVG GER DAC PMTRP COSVPP ℞ SPQR OPTIMO
- PRINCIPI. The mole at Ancona.</p>
-
- <p>IMP CÆS NER TRAIANO OPTIMO AVG GER DAC ℞ SENATVS POPVLVSQ ROMANVS.
- Fortune sitting with a <em>cornucopia</em> in one hand, a rudder in the
- other, FORT RED SC.</p>
-
- <p>IMP CAES. &amp;c. as the second. ℞ SPQR. a genius sitting on trophies, with
- a spear in the left hand, a <em>victoriola</em> in its right.</p>
-
- <p>IMP CAESAR TRAIANVS HADRIANVS ℞ PONT. MAX. TRP. Britannia sitting with
- a shield, a spear in her left hand, a laurel in her right, the right
- foot upon a rock BRITANNIA SC.</p>
-
- <p>CONSTANTINVS AVG. ℞ SOLI INVICTO COMITI. Another, ℞ ALEMANNIA DEVICTA.</p>
-
- <p class="noindent">Several of those struck about Constantius’s time with a galeate head
- on one side, and URBS ROMA ℞ a wolf suckling Romulus and Remus:
- others, CONSTANTINOPOLIS: many more, of Aurelius, Faustina, Gallienus,
- Tetricus, Victorinus, Carausius, Constantine, Constantius, Crispus,
- Allectus, and the lower Empire. About forty years ago, when the
- inclosures between the town and bridge were ploughed up, abundance of
- these coins were found, many intaglias of agate, cornelian, the finest
- coral-coloured urns and patera’s, some wrought in <em>basso relievo</em>,
- the workman’s name generally impressed on the inside of the bottom: a
- <em>discus</em> with an emperor’s head embossed. In 1718, they dug up
- two altars, handsomely moulded, which are set as piers in a wall on
- the side of the steps that lead from the water-side to the inn: on one
- is the remnant of an inscription, LIS ARAM DD. these are of the course
- grit-stone. Many very little coins are found here, like flatted pease;
- they call them mites. Mr. Hardy has a large urn with the face of a
- woman on the out-side. In this same field near White’s bridge are great
- foundations of building: coins are often found too at the lowest edge
- of the water, when the tide is gone off, and in dry seasons. On the
- east side of the river has been a camp. Returning by Tilbridge lane,
- upon the top of the heath is a spring, which they say flows and abates
- with the tide in the Trent, though five miles off: the like is reported
- of divers others hereabouts.</p>
-
- <p>From the place where the roads branch out, before spoken of, I
- proceeded on the Hermen-street, northward, to Spittle on the street.
- There are milliary stones set upon the road all the way: it is very
- delightful riding, being wholly champaign, or heath. Of these stones I
- believe some are Roman, others later crosses, perhaps to supply their
- place: some <em>tumuli</em> scattered here and there. This place no doubt
- was a mansion, because a little beck runs through it, arising hard by:
- and it is ten miles from Lincoln; a convenient distance. I took the
- bearing of the road just north and south. Here is an hospital, said to
- be founded 1308, and great foundations all around, some of which are
- probably Roman. At present the village consists of two farm-houses, a
- chapel, an inn, and a sessions-house: three or four <em>tumuli</em> near
- the town. Upon the chapel is a silly Latin inscription:</p>
-
- <table class="small">
- <tbody>
- <tr>
- <td><i>fui anno domini</i></td>
- <td>1398</td>
- <td rowspan="3" class="rbrace">&nbsp;</td>
- <td rowspan="3"><i>dom. dei &amp; pauperum</i></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><i>non fui</i></td>
- <td>1594</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><i>sum</i></td>
- <td>1616</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="4" class="tdc"><div><i>Qui hanc Deus hunc destruet.</i></div></td>
- </tr>
- </tbody>
- </table>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>16·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <div><b><i>The Scite of the Roman town at</i> Wintringham. <i>24. Iuly 1724.</i> <span class="smcap">Abontrvs.</span></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_095.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">95</span></p>
-
- <p>Upon the sessions-house,</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry" lang="la">
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0"><i>Hæc domus odit, amat, punit, conservat, honorat,</i></div>
- <div class="i2"><i>Equitiam, pacem, crimina, jura, bonos.</i> 1620.</div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">Underneath, a coat palè of six, on a bend three annulets, with the
- arms of Ulster: over the door, <i lang="la">Fiat justitia</i> 1619. All this
- whole country is a quarry just beneath the surface. Beyond Spittle
- woodland begins: by Broughton, a vein of deep sand well planted with
- coneys. At all these towns upon the Roman road, coins and antiquities
- are found; Hibberstow, Gainsthorp, Broughton, Roxby, &amp;c. at Sandton
- has been a Roman pottery: between Scalby and Manton is a Roman camp:
- in Appleby is a place called Julian’s Bower: at Kirton, John of Gaunt
- had a seat: twenty-nine towns round about held of him in socage. I take
- Broughton to be another station, because of its name, and that a brook
- runs through it; so that the interval between Lincoln and Wintringham
- is conveniently divided into three parts, ten miles each, by Spittle
- and Broughton, the whole being thirty Roman miles. Thornholm, a mitred
- priory: there is but another in England, Spalding. Risby and Gokewell,
- two nunneries; some small remains of both. To the left is Normanby,
- where the late duke of Buckingham was born, and whence his title.</p>
-
- <p>We kept the road all the way, though sometimes it passes over little
- bogs, and at last about Winterton is inclosed: it terminates in some
- arable, where it is well nigh lost a mile south of <span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Wintringham</span> Ro. <i>town</i>.</span>Wintringham.
- Upon a rising ground at the end of the Roman road, a little to the
- right, and half a mile east of the present Wintringham, stood the old
- Roman town, of which they have a perfect knowledge, and ploughed up
- great foundations within memory: <span class="sidenote">TAB. [i XVI]. 2d Vol.</span>it is now a common, skirted by the
- marshes upon the Humber: the soil hereabouts is clay. This site of Old
- Wintringham, as called, was almost inclosed with water in its first
- condition, having only a slip of land towards the Roman road as an
- entrance: the valley westward between it and the town is now called
- the Old Haven, where three elm-trees stand: the east is bounded by the
- mouth of the Ankham, which I suppose is <em>ang</em> in British, broad,
- <em>avon</em>, river, from its broad marshes. The city was ploughed
- up six years ago, and great numbers of antiquities found, now lost;
- great pavements, chimney-stones, &amp;c. often breaking their ploughs:
- in several places they found streets made of sea-sand and gravel. It
- is a <em>peninsula</em> between the Humber and Ankham, and had most
- opportunely a fine spring on the east side, which no doubt was embraced
- by the Romans: it is likewise a great rarity in nature, arising so
- near the sea in a clayey marsh: there is stone-work left round it, and
- an iron ladle to drink at, which is done frequently by travellers,
- as with a religious necessity. Several intakes have been made beyond
- this city in memory of man, which drives the Humber farther off, and
- increases the marsh: it is half a mile between it and old town. The old
- haven-mouth is called Flashmire. This place is over-against Brough,
- the Roman town on the Yorkshire shore; but it is rather more eastward:
- so that with the tide coming in they ferried over very commodiously
- thither, and even now they are forced to take the tide. <em>Buck-bean
- trefoil</em> grows upon all the bogs hereabouts. The bearing of the end
- of the Roman way is precisely north and south, as at Lincoln; so that
- it is a true meridian line from the west end of the cathedral. The
- present Wintringham is a dirty poor place, but still a corporation;
- and the mayor is chosen only out of one street, next the old town,
- where was a chapel: the bell of it now hangs in a wooden frame by the
- pillory, and makes a most ridiculous appearance. Here is still a ferry
- from a small creek kept<span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">96</span> open by some freshes; it was ill judged of
- travellers to desert the old Roman way and ferry, and turn the road to
- Barton, (where the Humber is much broader and very dangerous) for no
- other reason but because it is somewhat nearer and over-against Hull:
- but the saving three miles riding does not compensate for the time or
- hazard of so uncouth a passage. I am persuaded the old name of this
- station was <em>Abontrus</em>, the same as the name of the river, whence
- they have formed the mimic Wintringham. Here is a vast jaw-bone or rib
- of a whale, that has lain time out of mind, like that at St. James’s.
- Wintringham church stands on the end of the Lincolnshire <em>Alpes</em>.
- Well may the Humber take its name from the noise it makes: my landlord,
- who is a sailor, says in a high wind it is incredibly great and
- terrible, like the crash and dashing together of ships. The Roman way
- beyond the Humber at Brough is continued in Yorkshire; but of its
- progress that way I can say nothing at present, this being the northern
- boundary of my expeditions.</p>
-
- <p>From the termination of the Hermen-street, just by the knoll of old
- Wintringham, and the hedge on the side of a common, a lesser vicinal
- branch of a Roman road goes directly west to Aukborough, passing over
- Whitton brook. All the ground hereabouts terminates at the Humber in
- longitudinal ridges going north and south, and all steep like a cliff
- to the west, plain and level eastward. Aukborough I visited, because
- I suspected it the <span class="sidenote smcap">Aquis.</span><i>Aquis</i> of the Romans, in Ravennas, and I was
- not deceived; for I presently descried the Roman <em>castrum</em>.<a id="FNanchor_83" href="#Footnote_83" class="fnanchor">[83]</a>
- <span class="sidenote">TAB. XVII. 2d Vol.</span>There are two little <em>tumuli</em> upon the end of the road entering
- the town. The Roman castle is square, three hundred foot each side, the
- entrance north: the west side is objected to the steep cliff hanging
- over the Trent, which here falls into the Humber; for this castle is
- very conveniently placed in the north-west angle of Lincolnshire, as a
- watch-tower over all Nottinghamshire and Yorkshire, which it surveys.
- Hence you see the Ouse coming from York, and downward the Humber mouth,
- and all over the isle of Axholm. Much salt-marsh is gained from all
- these rivers, though now and then they reclaim and alter their course.
- Then they discover the subterraneous trees lodged here at the Deluge
- in great abundance, along the banks of all the three rivers: the wood
- is hard and black, and sinks like a stone. Here are likewise other
- plentiful reliques of the Deluge in the stones, viz. sea-shells of all
- sorts, where a <em>virtuoso</em> might furnish his cabinet: sometimes a
- stone is full of one sort of shell, sometimes of another; sometimes,
- of little globules like the spawn of fishes: I viewed them with great
- pleasure. I am told the camp is now called Countess Close, and they
- say a countess of Warwick lived there; perhaps owned the estate;<a id="FNanchor_84" href="#Footnote_84" class="fnanchor">[84]</a>
- but there are no marks of building, nor I believe ever were. The
- <em>vallum</em> and ditch are very perfect: before the north entrance is
- a square plot called the Green, where I suppose the Roman soldiers lay
- <em>pro castris</em>: in it is a round work, formed into a labyrinth,
- which they call Julian’s Bower. The church is of good stone, has a
- square tower, but the choir ruinous, excluded by a wooden partition:
- between it and the way to the marshes, a good spring rising out of the
- cliff. I dare say no antiquary ever visited this place since the Romans
- left it; for the people were perfectly ignorant of any matters we could
- inquire about; and as to finding coins, &amp;c. they would make us no other
- answer than laughing at us: <span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">97</span>but I heard since, from other good
- hands, that they have been found here in great numbers.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>17·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <div><b><i>Prospect of Aukborough</i> Aquis <i>of the Romans 24. July 1724.</i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_096.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Julian’s Bower.</span></div>
-
- <p>Because I have frequently found these places called <em>Julian’s
- Bower</em>, both at Roman towns and others, but especially very common
- in Lincolnshire, I considered what should be the meaning of them, and
- shall here give my thoughts about it. They are generally upon open
- green places, by the side of roads or rivers, upon meadows and the like
- near a town: the name often remains, though the place be altered and
- cultivated; and the lovers of antiquity, especially of the inferior
- class, always speak of them with great pleasure, and as if there were
- something extraordinary in the thing, though they cannot tell what:
- very often they are called <em>Troy town</em>. What generally appears at
- present is no more than a circular work, made of banks of earth, in
- the fashion of a maze or labyrinth; and the boys to this day divert
- themselves with running in it one after another, which leads them by
- many windings quite through and back again.</p>
-
- <p>Upon a little reflection I concluded that this is the ancient Roman
- game; and it is admirable that both name and thing should have
- continued through such a diversity of people; though now it is well
- nigh perished, since the last age has discouraged the innocent and
- useful sports of the common people, by an injudicious and unnecessary
- zeal for religion, which has drove them into worse methods of
- amusement. I imagine too this was a practice of the ancient Britons,
- many of which were of Phrygian extract, coming from the borders of
- Thrace; therefore derived it from the same fountain as the Romans:
- this was upon their <em>maii campi</em>; but I shall not speak of them
- here: and the Turks, I apprehend, learnt it hence; for it is their
- diversion too. As to the name <em>bower</em>, it signifies not an arbor,
- or pleasant shady retirement, in this place; but <em>borough</em>, or
- any work made with ramparts of earth, as camps and the like: and it is
- my thoughts, many works, which have been taken for camps, were only
- made for this purpose; whereof two I met with in this journey, that
- at Ashwel, and Maiden Bower near Dunstable. The name of <em>Julian</em>
- undoubtedly refers to <em>Julus</em> the son of Æneas, who first brought
- it into Italy, as is admirably described by Virgil in his V. Æneid. and
- kept up by the Romans with great pomp and annual festivity: Augustus
- was particularly fond of it, and took it as a compliment to his family.
- That they call these places <em>Troy town</em>, proves the same. Hear the
- poet:</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza" lang="la">
- <div class="i0"><i>Hunc morem hos cursus atque hæc certamina primus</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Ascanius, longam muris cum cingeret Albam</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Rettulit, &amp; priscos docuit celebrare Latinos.</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Quo puer ipse modo, secum quo Troia pubes.</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Albani docuere suos, hinc maxima porro</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Accepit Roma &amp; patrium servavit honorem:</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Trojaque nunc pueri Trojanum dicitur agmen.</i></div>
- </div>
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0">This game long since, this martial exercise</div>
- <div class="i0">Ascanius brought, when Alba’s walls he rear’d.</div>
- <div class="i0">Whence the old Latins celebrate the same,</div>
- <div class="i0">As he a lad, with him the Trojan youth.</div>
- <div class="i0">The Albans taught it theirs: from them great Rome</div>
- <div class="i0">Learnt it, and to their country’s honour call</div>
- <div class="i0">The game <em>Troy town</em>, the boys the <em>Trojan band</em>.</div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">I conceive this game was of two sorts; that performed on foot; that
- on horse-back, or in chariots: the intent of both was to exercise
- the youth<span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">98</span> in warlike activity, for it was a sort of mock fight:
- that on foot was the <em>Pyrrhic</em> dance. Suetonius says, <i lang="la">lusus
- ipse quem vulgo Pyrrhicum appellant Troja vocatur</i>. If we carry
- it up to its first original, we must affirm it was invented by
- the <em>Corybantes</em>, <em>Idei dactyli</em>, <em>Curetes</em>, whose
- institution, when confirmed among the Romans, was continued by
- the priests called <em>Salii</em>, dancing in armour, and clashing
- their weapons together with some sort of concert. Likewise the real
- soldiers had the same festival, which they called <em>armilustrium</em>,
- celebrated on the 19. Octob. of which Varro gives us an account <em>de
- lingua Lat.</em> Suetonius mentions it in <em>Tiberio</em>, c. 72. This,
- whether performed on foot or horse-back, by children, priests or
- soldiers, was manifestly the same thing: their gestures, turnings,
- returnings, knots and figures, their assaults, retreat, and the like,
- were aptly represented by mazes and labyrinths; which very comparison
- Virgil uses.</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza" lang="la">
- <div class="i0"><i>Ut quondam Cretâ fertur labyrinthus in altâ,</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Parjetibus textum cæcis iter, ancipitemque</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Mille viis habuisse dolum, qua signa sequendi</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Falleret indeprensus &amp; irremeabilis error.</i></div>
- </div>
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0">Such was in Crete the labyrinth of yore,</div>
- <div class="i0">In crooked tracks immur’d, a thousand ways</div>
- <div class="i0">Doubtful and dark: whence the return obscure,</div>
- <div class="i0">Inextricable, in endless mazes lost.</div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">It is likely these works of ours, made in the turf, were cast up, in
- order to teach the children the method of it. That on foot is elegantly
- described by Claudian <i>de</i> VI. <i>consul. Honorii</i>, v. 622.</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza" lang="la">
- <div class="i0"><i>Armatos hic sæpe choros, certaque vagandi</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Textas lege fugas, inconfusosque recursus,</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Et pulchras errorum artes, jucundaque Martis</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Cernimus: insonuit cum verbere signa magister.</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Mutatosque edunt pariter tot pectora motus,</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>In latus allisis clypeis, aut rursus in altum</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Vibratis. grave parma sonat mucronis acuti</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Murmure, &amp; umbonum pulsu modulante resultans</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Ferreus alterno concentus clauditur ense.</i></div>
- </div>
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0">Here have I seen the armed rings revolve</div>
- <div class="i0">In artful flights, in order then advance,</div>
- <div class="i0">Attack, retire in all the forms of war,</div>
- <div class="i0">Their eye still on the signal of the chief;</div>
- <div class="i0">Then face about, ringing their brazen shields</div>
- <div class="i0">Against their corslets, or uplifted high</div>
- <div class="i0">Threaten the ecchoing skies; whilst steely blades</div>
- <div class="i0">Harsh murmur, and the clanging targets sound</div>
- <div class="i0">Alternate struck, the martial concert close.</div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">The equestrian games of this denomination required more room and
- <em>apparatus</em> for spectators: therefore probably they fenced
- in a larger space of ground, of a circular or oval form, with a
- <em>vallum</em>, to keep the spectators at proper distance, and upon
- which they might more commodiously behold the sport. This I suppose was
- provided for by those bowers or burroughs mentioned, where there was
- no ditch behind; for that would be dangerous, if the people crouding
- one another, as is natural on those occasions, should thrust the
- outermost from such an elevation: so that they were<span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">99</span> a larger sort of
- amphitheatres, or circs: and this seems expressly intimated by the
- great Mantuan in those verses,</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza" lang="la">
- <div class="i0"><i>Munera principio ante oculos circoque locantur</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>In medio ————</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Et tuba commissos medio canit aggere ludos.</i></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">These games on horseback he thus describes:</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza" lang="la">
- <div class="i0"><i>Olli discurrere pares, atque agmina terni</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Diductis solvere choris, rursusque vocati</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Convertere vias, infestaque tela tulere.</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Inde alios ineunt cursus aliosque recursus</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Adversis spatiis, alternosque orbibus orbes</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Impediunt, pugnæque cient simulachra sub armis.</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Et nunc terga fugâ nudant; nunc spicula vertunt</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Infensi, factâ pariter nunc pace feruntur.</i></div>
- </div>
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0">They ride by pairs: the martial cavalcade</div>
- <div class="i0">Triple battalions form, which open first</div>
- <div class="i0">With adfront, and show of dreadful fight.</div>
- <div class="i0">Then new careers they take, wheeling about</div>
- <div class="i0">In various circles and self-ending orbs,</div>
- <div class="i0">In all the mazy arts and forms of war;</div>
- <div class="i0">Now turn their backs, and now afresh attack:</div>
- <div class="i0">At length in peaceful order all march off.</div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">It seems that our tournaments, so much in fashion till queen
- Elizabeth’s time, are remainders of these warlike diversions; and the
- triple order, by which they were conducted, may possibly be imitated in
- some degree by the common figure in dancing, called the <em>hedge</em>,
- or the <em>hay</em>; both which I suppose are derived from the Saxon
- <em>hæg</em>, perhaps from the Latin <em>agger</em>.</p>
-
- <p>We passed by the spring of old Wintringham and the Marsh at the mouth
- of the Ankham, which is a vast tract of land left by the sea; and came
- to Feriby sluice, a stately bridge of three arches, with sluices for
- voidance of the water into the sea, but now broken down and lying in
- dismal ruins by the negligence of the undertakers: whence travellers
- are obliged to pass the river in a paltry short boat, commanded by a
- little old deaf fellow with a long beard: into this boat you descend,
- by the steep of the river, through a deep mirey clay, full of stones
- and stakes; nor is the ascent on the other side any better, both
- dangerous and difficult. This, with the hideous ruins of the bridge,
- like the picture of hell gates in Milton, and the terrible roar of the
- water passing through it, fitly represented Virgil’s description of
- Charon’s ferry: nor would a poet wish for a better scene to heighten
- his fancy, were he to paint out the horrors of the confines of hell.</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza" lang="la">
- <div class="i0"><i>Hinc via Tartarei quæ fert Acherontis ad undas.</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Turbidus hic cœno vastaque voragine gurges</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Æstuat, atque omnem Cocyto eructat arenam.</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Portitor has horrendus aquas &amp; flumina servat</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Terribili squallore Charon, cui plurima mento</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Canicies inculta jacet</i> ————<span class="fright">Æn. vi.</span></div>
- </div>
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0">Hence the way leads to Fereby forlorn,</div>
- <div class="i0">Where Ankham’s oozy flood with hideous roar</div>
- <div class="i0">Tears up the sands and sluices ruin’d vaults.</div>
- <div class="i0">A squalid Charon the dread ferry plies</div>
- <div class="i0">In leaky scull, whose furrow’d cheeks lie deep</div>
- <div class="i0">With hoary beard insconc’d———</div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_100">100</span></p>
-
- <p class="noindent">When we had mounted the precipice again from the water, and paid our
- naul to the inexorable ferryman, we had several clayey lakes to ride
- over, unpassable in winter. Two roads<a id="FNanchor_85" href="#Footnote_85" class="fnanchor">[85]</a> lead you to the town, a sorry
- ragged place, where upon the stocks is wrote, <em>Fear God, honour the
- King</em>. The church is set respecting no points of the compass, and
- just under the side of a precipice, so that you may almost leap from it
- upon the steeple: when we climbed the hill, it was a long while before
- we could find the way to Barton; and scarce could the people direct
- us to it, though but two miles off: at length, after wandering some
- time backward and forward, we hit upon the road, and, as men escaped
- the Stygian pool, with pleasure surveyed Barton, riding all the way
- through corn-fields, overlooking the Humber and Hull. Barton from hence
- makes a pretty prospect, having two churches, several mills, and the
- houses pleasantly intermixed with trees. This hill is wholly chalk, and
- answered on the opposite shore by another of the same nature. This is
- at present the passage across the Humber to Yorkshire, and we pleased
- ourselves at this time only with the distant view of it, and the
- neighbouring Hull: we could see the flag upon the castle.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Barrow.</span> British <i>temple</i>.</div>
-
- <p>At Barrow we were surprised with a castle, as the inhabitants call it,
- upon the salt marsh: upon view of the works I wondered not that they
- say it was made by Humber when he invaded Britain, in the time of the
- Trojan Brutus; for it is wholly dissonant from any thing I had seen
- before: but after sufficient <em>examen</em> I found it to be a temple of
- the old Britons, therefore to be referred to another occasion. A little
- eastward hence we visited Thornton college, a great abbey founded by
- William le Gros earl of Albemarle 1139, the gate-house is very perfect;
- a vast tower, <span class="sidenote">TAB. XVIII. 2d Vol.</span>or castle, wherein all methods of Gothic architecture for
- offence and defence are employed: there is a great ditch before it,
- across which a bridge with walls on each hand, and arches that support
- a broad battlement to defend the access: before it two low round
- towers: this stands oblique to the building, like the bridge at the
- tower-gate, the better to keep off assailants by arrows shot through
- many narrow loop-holes: there was a portcullis at the great gate, and
- behind it another gate of oak: there are no windows in front: over it
- are three old clumsy statues in as ordinary niches: a woman seeming a
- queen, or the virgin Mary: to the right, a man with a lamb; I suppose,
- St. John baptist: to the left, a bishop or abbot with a crosier: the
- lamb is introduced in several other places: in the battlements above
- the gate are the figures of men cut in stone, as looking down: on both
- sides this tower goes a strong wall embattled, supported by internal
- arches, with towers at proper distances: along the ditch within the
- gate are spacious rooms and stair-cases of good stone and rib-work
- arches. Upon taking down an old wall there, they found a man with a
- candlestick, table and book, who was supposed to have been immured.
- When you enter the spacious court, a walk of trees conducts you to the
- ruins of the church: part of the south-east corner is left between the
- choir and transept, and behind that some of the chapter-house, which
- was octagonal: the whole plan of the church is easily discoverable,
- and round about it the foundations of a quadrangle, and lodgings, to
- the south of which now stands a dwelling-house, which I suppose was
- the abbot’s lodge: here are great moats and fish-ponds, subterraneous
- vaults and passages; the whole monastery being encompassed by a deep
- ditch and high rampart, to secure the religious from robbers, because
- near the sea. A mile east of Thornton are the ruins of another great
- castle, called Kelingholme.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_101">101</span> In Goswel parish northward is Burham,
- a chapel now become a farm-house, which belonged to the monastery: in
- the same parish, near the Humber, is Vere court, which belonged to the
- ancient family of that name. Good land hereabouts, well wooded: they
- find Roman coins all about. Two miles west of Thornton is a great Roman
- camp, called <span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Yarborough.</span> Ro. <i>town</i>.</span>Yarborough, which surveys the whole hundred denominated
- from it, and all the sea-coast. Vast quantities of Roman coins have
- been found here: Mr. Howson, of Kenington hard by, has pecks of them,
- many of Licinius.<a id="FNanchor_86" href="#Footnote_86" class="fnanchor">[86]</a></p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>18·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <div><b><i>Inside view of Thornton College gate house July 26 1724</i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_100_1.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>I Harris Scul.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>19·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <img src="images/i_100_2.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp:</i></div>
- <div><b><span class="large"><i>Prospect of</i> Caster Lincolnsh<sup>r</sup><span class="xsmall" style="margin-left: -0.3em;">:</span> <i>July 26 1724.</i></span> <i>A Roman Town.</i></b><br>
- <span class="small">A. <i>a piece of the Roman wall of the castle.</i>&nbsp;
- B. <i>the Spring.</i>&nbsp; C. <i>another piece of the Roman wall.</i></span></div>
- </figure>
-
- <p class="clear">Hence we journeyed to Caster, upon another ridge of the downs, running
- north and south, slaunting off eastward to the sea, and steep all the
- way westward, reaching from the Humber to the Witham below Lincoln: a
- vein of sand again, and alike stocked with rabbets, answering to that
- on the other side the Ankham at Sandton, but a little more southward.
- From the hill just above Caster you have an admirable prospect both
- east and west; this way to the mouth of the Humber, the Spurnhead
- promontory, the Sunk island, and the whole country of Holderness in
- Yorkshire; that way, all the sea-coast of Lincoln stretched out in a
- long bow, jutting into the sea, full of creeks and harbours: south and
- west the whole county of Lincoln lies under the eye; but the height of
- Lincoln minster particularly pleases, which is here seen by the edge of
- the cliff south of Caster, and presents a very romantic landscape.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Caster.</span> Ro. <i>town</i>.</div>
-
- <p>The town of Caster is half way down this western steep; and in nothing
- more, that I have seen, did the Romans show their fine genius for
- choice of a station, than this:<span class="sidenote">TAB. XIX. 2d Vol.</span> there is a narrow promontory juts
- forward to the west, being a rock full of springs, level at top; and on
- this did they build their town. One may easily guess at the original
- Roman scheme upon which it was founded, and now in the main preserved:
- this whole town takes in three squares of full 300 feet each, two of
- which are allotted to the castle, the third is an <em>area</em> lying
- to the east before it, between it and the hill, which is still the
- market-place: the streets are all set upon these squares, and at right
- angles: at each end are two outlets, going obliquely at the corners
- to the country round about, two above, two descending the hill thus
- distributed: the north-east to the Humber mouth, south-east to Louth,
- north-west to Wintringham, south-west to Lincoln. What is the meaning
- of this place being called <em>Thongcaster</em>,<a id="FNanchor_87" href="#Footnote_87" class="fnanchor">[87]</a> among some others
- in England, I know not; one in Kent: but it gave occasion to the same
- fanciful report of its original, as queen Dido’s founding Carthage
- upon as much ground as she could incompass with an ox’s hide cut into
- <em>thongs</em>; and a person in the town told me there was an history
- of the building Caster in <em>Virgil</em>, and offered to show it me.
- I should not have thought this worth mentioning, had not Mr. Camden
- spoke of it, as if he believed it to be true: but there can be no
- doubt that this castle was built long before Hengist’s time; for I saw
- enough of the old Roman wall to evince its founders: one great piece
- stands on the verge of the church-yard; another by a house: there are
- more behind the school-house in the pastures, and I have met with many
- men that have dug at its foundations in several other places: it is
- built of white rag-stone laid sometimes sideways, sometimes flat, in
- mortar exceedingly hard, full of pebbles and sand; nor is it mixed to
- any <span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">102</span>fineness: so that I conjecture it was the method of the Romans
- to pour the mortar on liquid, as soon as the lime was slaked: thus
- the heat and moisture, struggling together, created a most strict
- union or attraction between the lime and stone, the motion favouring
- their approximation; and the lime, no doubt, being made of the same
- stone, promoted a more intimate union between the cement and the hard
- materials by similitude of parts. I suppose this narrow tongue of land
- was thus encompassed with a wall quite to the market-place, objecting
- only its end to the plain before the hill, the rest standing upon the
- stoney precipice. From under the<span class="sidenote">TAB. XX. 2d Vol.</span> castle-walls almost quite round rise
- many quick springs; but Syfer spring is most famous, having now four
- fluxes of water from between the joints of great stones laid flat like
- a wall; and joined together with lead, probably first by the Romans,
- for it is under their wall; shaded over with trees very pleasantly:
- this is the morning and evening rendezvous of the servant-maids, where
- consequently intelligence is given of all domestic news: they say,
- within memory it ran much quicker, so that the water projected three
- or four foot from the wall; others say, that originally it ran in one
- stream like the sheet of a cascade. Syfer spring, no doubt, is the
- Saxon <em>syfer</em>, pure, clean, as the stream here deserves to be
- called. There is a place by the fold, south-west of the church, still
- called Castle-hill, where many bodies have been dug up. I am inclinable
- to think the meaning of <em>Thong-castle</em> to be fetched from <em>Thane
- Degen</em>, Saxonicè, <em>miles</em>, <em>præfectus</em>, analogous to the
- Latin <em>comes</em>.<a id="FNanchor_88" href="#Footnote_88" class="fnanchor">[88]</a> Here it is likely our Saxon ancestors placed a
- garrison of troops to secure this country, as they conquered from the
- Roman Britons. In the church is a monumental <em>effigies</em>, in stone,
- of a knight of the name of Hundon; another, of a lady; another, of a
- knight of St. John of Jerusalem, cross-legged.</p>
-
- <p>In Snarford church some fine monuments, in alabaster, of the family of
- St. Paul’s. Return we now to Lindum.</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza" lang="la">
- <div class="i0"><i>Sol medium cœli conscenderat igneus orbem</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Cum muros arcemque procul &amp; rara domorum</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Tecta vides, modo quæ Romana potentia cœlo</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Æquavit</i>————<span class="fright"><span class="smcap">Virg.</span> Æ. viii.</span></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">A mile north upon the Foss is a <em>tumulus</em> of hard stone, called
- the Castle.</p>
-
- <p>From hence I determined to proceed to London all the way on the Roman
- road, which perhaps has not been so scrupulously travelled upon for
- this thousand years: the intent, which I executed, was to perform the
- whole sixth journey in Antoninus his Itinerary; of which I shall give
- as complete an account as can be expected, considering how totally most
- of the stations here are erased, and that I was resolved so far to
- imitate an ancient traveller, as to dine and lie at a Roman town all
- the way if possible, and sometimes in danger of faring as meanly as a
- Roman soldier: nor could I always readily say,</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry" lang="la">
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0"><i>Longum iter hic nobis minuit mutatio crebra,</i></div>
- <div class="i2"><i>Mansio sub noctem claudit ubique diem.</i></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">Add to this, that the whole was new to me; that I had almost every
- place to find out; that I was alone, and had no other guide than what
- Mr. Gale has pointed out to us, who is the first that hit upon the true
- notion of this road: and I doubt not but the reader’s candour will
- overlook the errors or imperfections of this simple narration, of what
- I could observe myself, <span class="pagenum" id="Page_103">103</span>and fish out from the uncouth relations of
- the country people, who, for one half of the way, had never heard of
- enquiries of this sort since any memory, and were too apt to be morose
- upon that occasion, thinking I had some design upon their farms in my
- inquisitiveness.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp68 mb4">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>20·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <img src="images/i_102_1.jpg" alt="">
- <div><b>Syfer Spring <i>at Caster in Lincolnsh<sup>r</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span> July 26. 1724. (a Roman Work.)</i></b></div>
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall fe.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb3">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>21·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <div><b><span class="large"><i>Prospect of</i> Crocolana <i>from Potter hill. Sept. 7. 1722.</i></span><br>
- <span class="small">A. <i>Brough the Roman City.</i>&nbsp; B. <i>Newark.</i>&nbsp; C. <i>the cliff by the Trent.</i>&nbsp; D. <i>Potter hill.</i></span></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_102_2.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <p class="clear">This<span class="sidenote"><em>Foss</em> road.</span> journey proceeds from Lincoln upon the great Foss road, as it
- tends to the Bath quite through Nottinghamshire and Leicestershire (but
- most terribly defaced) till it meets with and crosses (having gone
- sixty miles) the great Watling-street coming from Chester, and going
- to Dover, at High-cross in Warwickshire: hence to London, about ninety
- miles more, I went upon this Watling-street, which completes that
- journey of the Itinerary.</p>
-
- <p>I apprehend the <em>Foss</em> is the name transmitted through the
- British, which comes from <em>digging</em>, as being an artificial
- road; whence they are often called <em>dikes</em>, a word of contrary
- significations, as the Latin <em>altus</em>.<a id="FNanchor_89" href="#Footnote_89" class="fnanchor">[89]</a> Descending southwards,
- where the Foss parts with the Hermen-street below Lincoln, by the abbey
- without the most southern gate, and passing over the river Witham
- by Bracebridge, before it comes to Lincoln; I soon perceived myself
- upon the Foss road, by its strait ridge carried over the barren moory
- ground, by a mill near Stickham. Hard by lies a stone cross of good
- height, of one piece, vulgarly called Robin Hood’s Whetstone upon the
- Foss, and is called sometimes the three-mile stone. The elevation of
- the road is still preserved, the common road going round about: it
- is much overgrown with goss, and the moor but thinly so; its strait
- length easily distinguishable for that reason: it butts a good deal
- to the east of Lincoln. Between Bracebridge and its union with the
- Hermen way, some pavement is left of flag-stone set edgewise: the
- road beyond the moor goes through the inclosures of Hikeham and
- Thorp, then enters Morton lane, very pleasantly set on both sides
- with woods full of game.<a id="FNanchor_90" href="#Footnote_90" class="fnanchor">[90]</a> And so journeying to the space of about
- twelve Roman miles, I found Collingham on my right hand: there is a
- high barrow or <em>tumulus</em> called Potters hill, where they say was
- a Roman pottery: it stands upon an eminence commanding a prospect
- both ways upon the road. Half a mile farther is Brough, the undoubted
- <span class="sidenote smcap">Crocolana.</span><em>Crocolana</em> of the Romans: it is three miles North of Newark.
- Great plenty of wild Saffron grows hereabouts; whence I once thought
- the name came, signifying the saffron field, from the Celtic word, a
- field or inclosure (<em>lhan.</em>)<span class="sidenote">TAB. XXI. 2d Vol.</span> In the later times of the empire,
- when they shortened words, it was called <em>Colana</em>; and some critic
- restoring <em>Croco</em> to it, doubled the second syllable; whence it
- is found in Antoninus his Itinerary, <em>Crococolanum</em>: but I judge
- Mr. Baxter’s derivation of it is right, <em>ericetum pulchrum</em>: the
- ground is very woody and pleasant, and full of goss or heath, in Welsh
- <em>grûg</em>. From <em>Colana</em>, Collinghams, two miles off, probably
- had their name,<a id="FNanchor_91" href="#Footnote_91" class="fnanchor">[91]</a> springing up from its ruins, as well as Newark, the
- Saxons approaching nearer the water side; the Trent and the Foss road
- being neglected, which supported the Roman town by travellers chiefly.
- Collinghams stand upon a mere or rivulet, abounding with springs called
- the Fleet, running into the Trent. The lands at Collingham belong
- to Peterborough church; probably the gift of some king:<a id="FNanchor_92" href="#Footnote_92" class="fnanchor">[92]</a> they
- have a report, that one arch of South Collingham <span class="pagenum" id="Page_104">104</span>church came from
- Brough, which is probably true of the whole: they say Collingham was a
- market-town before Newark; and that Brough was a famous place in time
- of the Danes, who destroyed it in Edmund Ironside’s days. Danethorp is
- hard by, the seat lately of lady Grey.</p>
-
- <p>At Brough no Roman token visible, but the remarkable straitness of all
- the roads and by-lanes thereabouts: the city has been most perfectly
- levelled by the plough, so that the mark of ridge and furrow remains
- in the very road: the hedge-rows were planted since. Were it not for
- many distinguishing tokens, one may be apt to conclude as Floras did,
- <i lang="la">laborat annalium fides ut Veios fuisse credamus</i>. They say here
- was a church upon a place called chapel-yard, and a font was once taken
- up there. The old landlady at the little ale-house, which is the only
- house there, till Thomas Cope’s and another were lately built, says,
- that where her fire-place is, the cross once stood; and that the whole
- is fairy ground, and very lucky to live on. There have been many Roman
- coins dug up here, and all the way between it and Newark:<a id="FNanchor_93" href="#Footnote_93" class="fnanchor">[93]</a> I bought
- a large brass <em>Faustina junior</em>, lately found in the corn-field
- over-against the ale-house: in digging too they find great foundations,
- for half a mile together, on each side the road, with much rusty iron,
- iron ore and iron cinders; so that it is probable here was an eminent
- Roman forge. Across the road was a vast foundation of a wall, and part
- still remains: out of one hole they showed me, has been dug up ten or
- fifteen load of stone; so that it should seem to have been a gate: the
- stones at the foundation are observed to be placed edgewise, and very
- large ones, but not of a good sort: this was the method the Romans
- justly thought most convenient, in this springy soil; for the springs
- rise here, all about, within two foot of the surface. They told me some
- very large copper Roman coins have been found here, and silver too, and
- many pots, urns, bricks, &amp;c. they call the money Brough pennies. The
- earl of Stanford is lord of the manor, and all is copy-hold, probably
- originally in the crown. The country people have a notion that the Foss
- road is the oldest in England, and that it was made by William the
- Conqueror. This is all that I could learn of this city, which I thought
- no contemptible gleaning from the shipwreck of time; for</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza" lang="la">
- <div class="i0"><i>Jam seges est ubi Troja fuit</i>——</div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">is true of all the stations of this whole journey, more or less; and I
- was glad when any part of the harvest might be applied to the gathering
- of antiquities. From hence the road goes extremely strait to Newark
- between hedge-rows, having the steeple before us as a visto: but, much
- to their disgrace, it is in very ill repair; nay, in some places they
- dig the very stone and gravel out of it to mend their streets.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Newark.</div>
-
- <p>Newark was certainly raised from the neighbouring Roman cities, and has
- been walled about with their remains: the northern and eastern gate,
- still left, are composed of stones seemingly of a Roman cut; and not
- improbably the Romans themselves had a town here; for many antiquities
- are found round about it,<a id="FNanchor_94" href="#Footnote_94" class="fnanchor">[94]</a> especially by the Foss side, which runs
- quite through the town. My friend the reverend Mr. Warburton, of this
- place, gave me a <span class="pagenum" id="Page_105">105</span>coin or two dug up here; and likewise this further
- information, that lately a gentleman (Mr. Holden) digging to plant some
- trees by the Foss road side, discovered four urns lying in a strait
- line, and at equal distances: they were soon broke in pieces by the
- workmen, imagining to find treasure therein: in one there was only a
- rude piece of brass, about the bulk of a small walnut, half melted
- down, with a bit of bone and some of the ashes sticking in the surface
- thereof, amidst the other burnt bones and ashes: he conjectured that
- it was a <em>fibula</em> belonging to the habit of the dead: there were
- square earthen beads in others, which seem to be British: in another
- was a small brass <em>lar</em> about an inch and half long, but much
- consumed by rust: he told me likewise a pot of Roman money was found at
- Carlton-scrope near them. There are two fine stone crosses at Newark:
- the market-place is a spacious square: the church is very large and
- handsome, with a very high steeple.<a id="FNanchor_95" href="#Footnote_95" class="fnanchor">[95]</a></p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_104">
- <div class="plateno"><i>90</i></div>
- <div><b><i>A Prospect of</i> Ad Pontem <i>upon the Eminence. A Mile South on the Foss. Sep. 7. 1722.</i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_104.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>W. Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div>
- <div class="small">a. <i>Old work Spring.</i>&nbsp;&nbsp; b. <i>the Foss</i>&nbsp;&nbsp; c. <i>a Tumulus</i>&nbsp;&nbsp; RR. <i>the Roman City.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <p>From Newark the Foss passes by Queen’s Sconce, one of the great forts
- erected in the civil wars, and so along the Trent side by Stoke, famous
- for a battle, and an inn called the Red inn. We arrived, at about six
- miles distance south of Newark, to the station of the Romans called
- <span class="sidenote smcap">Ad Pontem.</span><i lang="la">Ad pontem</i>. East Bridgford lies near a mile to the right upon
- the river Trent:<span class="sidenote">TAB. XC.</span> doubtless there was the bridge over the river, which
- created the denomination, in the Roman times, as being the passage from
- the eastern parts to those beyond the Trent: and as to this particular
- station upon the road, perhaps a bridge was the sign of the inn, that
- travellers might know where to turn out for that purpose, for I cannot
- suppose here was a bridge at the road. At Bridgford they told us there
- were formerly great buildings and cellars on the right as you descend
- to the Trent, and a quay upon the river for vessels to unlade at.<a id="FNanchor_96" href="#Footnote_96" class="fnanchor">[96]</a>
- The Roman station upon the Foss I found to be called Boroughfield,
- west of the road: here a spring arises under the hedge, called Oldwork
- spring, very quick, running over a fine gravel; the only one hereabouts
- that falls eastward, not directly into the neighbouring Trent, towards
- Newton. Hereabouts I saw the Roman foundations of walls, and floors
- of houses, composed after the manner before spoken, of stones set
- edgewise in clay, and liquid mortar run upon them: there are likewise
- short oaken posts or piles at proper intervals, some whereof I pulled
- up with my own hands. Dr. Batteley tells us of oak very firm, found
- at Reculver, under the Roman cisterns: the earth all around looks
- very black: they told us that frequently the stones were laid upon
- a bed of pease-straw and rush-rope or twisted hay, which remained
- very perfect. Houses stood all along upon the Foss, whose foundations
- have been dug up, and carried to the neighbouring villages. They told
- us too of a most famous pavement near the Foss way: close by, in a
- pasture, Castle-hill close, has been a great building, which they say
- was carried all to Newark. John Green <span class="pagenum" id="Page_106">106</span>of Bridgeford, aged 80, told me
- that he has taken up large foundations there, much ancient coin, and
- small earthen pipes for water: his father, aged near 100, took up many
- pipes fourscore yards off the castle, and much fine free-stone: some
- well cut and carved: there have been found many urns, pots, and Roman
- bricks; but the people preserved none of them; and some that had coins
- would by no means let us see them, for fear we were come from the lord
- of the manor. About a mile farther is a <em>tumulus</em> upon an eminence
- of the road beyond Bingham lane, a fine prospect to Belvoir castle,
- Nottingham, the Trent, &amp;c. whence I took a small sketch of the road we
- had passed, regretting the oblivion of so many famous antiquities.</p>
-
- <p>In my journey forwards, upon the declension of a stiff clayey hill,
- near the lodge upon the wolds, an inn under a great wood. The pavement
- upon the road is very manifest, of great blue flag-stones laid edgewise
- very carefully: the quarries whence they took them are by the side
- of the hill: this pavement is a hundred foot broad, or more; but all
- the way thence it has been intirely paved with red flints, seemingly
- brought from the sea-coasts: these are laid, with the smoothest face
- upwards, upon a bed of gravel over the clayey marl, which reaches
- beyond Margidunum; that we may well say,</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza" lang="la">
- <div class="i0"><i>O quantæ pariter manus laborant!</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Hi cædunt nemus, exuuntque montes.</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Hi ferro scopulos trabesque cædunt</i>, &amp;c.<span class="fright"><span class="smcap">Stat. Sylv.</span> iv.</span></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">This pavement is very broad, and visible where not covered with dirt,
- and especially in the frequent breaches thereof. They preserve a report
- still, that it was thus paved all the way from Newark to Leicester,
- and that the Foss way went through Leicester shambles: the yard of the
- lodge in the wold is paved with these same stones plundered from the
- road. June 15, 1728, Mr. L. Hurst, of Grantham, told me he saw at Mr.
- Gascoign’s, a goldsmith in Newark, a large gold ring weighing 42s.
- lately brought him by a countryman, which he found upon the Foss-way.
- There was a seal upon the gold; a fox (he thought) engraved under a
- tree. Afterward I bought the seal: it is a wolf under a tree. Perhaps
- Norman. AD PONTEM.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Margidvnvm.</div>
-
- <div class="sidenote">TAB. XCI.</div>
-
- <p>Willughby brook is the next water. When arrived over-against Willughby
- on the wold on the right, Upper and Nether Broughton on the left, you
- find a <em>tumulus</em> on Willughby side of the road, famous among
- the country people: it is called Cross hill: upon this they have an
- anniversary festival: the road parts the two lordships; but the name
- of Broughton set me to work to find the Roman town, among the people
- getting in harvest. After some time I perceived I was upon the spot,
- being a field called Henings, by which I suppose is meant the ancient
- meadows: this is upon the brow of the hill overlooking Willughby brook,
- rising in Dalby lordship, and playing in pretty meanders along a valley
- between corn-fields, with a moderate water unless raised by rains.
- Here they said had been an old city, called Long Billington: it is
- often called the Black field in common discourse, from the colour and
- excessive richness of the soil, so that they never lay any manure upon
- it. Here is a place called Thieves, and on the other side of the valley
- a place called Wells, near where now a barn stands: and all this length
- they say the city reached, and that there was a church on the top of
- Wells; but the city was mostly on Willughby side; for the land on the
- other side in Broughton lordship is poor, whilst this is luxuriant to
- the last degree; so that a farmer once happening to set his sheep-fold
- here,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_107">107</span> it rotted the corn upon the spot; and often he has been
- forced to mow the blade before it spindled (in their way of talking.)
- The soil is perfectly black, though all the circumjacent land be red,
- especially north of the valley upon the edge of the hill, and where
- most antiquities are found; which certainly was the true place, whence
- the Roman name, signifying a marly hill. Richard Cooper, aged 72, has
- found many brass and silver coins here: there have been some of gold.
- They have a notion of great riches being under ground, and a vulgar
- report that one balk, or mere, (i. e. a division between the ploughed
- fields) has as much money under it, as would purchase the whole
- lordship: but people have been frighted from digging it by spirits;
- and several pleasant stories are told thereupon. They have likewise
- a tradition that the city was destroyed by <em>thieves</em>, perhaps
- from the place so called. Many Mosaic pavements have been dug up: my
- landlord Gee of Willughby says, he has upon ploughing met with such
- for five yards together, as likewise coins, pot-hooks, fire-shovels
- and the like utensils, and many large brass coins, which they took for
- weights, ounces and half-ounces, but upon trial found them somewhat
- less. Broad stones and foundations are frequent upon the side of the
- Foss: several found at Wells. The ground naturally is so stiff a marl,
- that at Willughby town they pave their yards with stones, fetched from
- the Foss way even to the slope of their pits, for the cattle to drink
- at. At Over and Nether Broughton, and Willughby too, the coins are so
- frequent, that you hear of them all the country round. There is a fine
- prospect from Wells hill every way, whence I drew a little view of the
- place.<span class="sidenote">TAB. XI.</span> In Willughby town is a handsome cross of one stone, five yards
- long: in the time of the reforming rebellion the soldiers had tied
- ropes about it to pull it down; but the vicar persuaded them to commute
- for some strong beer, having made an harangue to show the innocence
- thereof. Richard Cooper likewise told me of a pot of Roman money found
- at Wilford near Nottingham.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_106">
- <div class="plateno"><i>91</i></div>
- <div><b>Prospect of Margidunum from Wells hill <i>by y<sup style="margin-left: -0.4em;">e</sup> Barn
- upon</i> Foss <i>Sept. 8. 1722. Nobilissimo Principi Duci Kingstoniæ &amp;c.</i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_106.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>W. Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div>
- <div><b>To face <span class="smcap">Nether Broughton</span></b></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp68 mb4" id="i_107">
- <div class="plateno"><i>11</i></div>
- <div><b>CROSSES</b></div>
- <img src="images/i_107.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div>
- <div><a href="#t_107">See transcription</a></div>
- </figure>
-
- <p>So much for Margidunum, of which we may say,</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry" lang="la">
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0"><i>Nunc passim vix relliquias vix nomina servans.</i></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p>In passing forwards towards Leicester, between here and the river Wrek,
- I found the Foss road began to be very obscure, not only where it
- has been ploughed up in some places, but where it goes over a grassy
- common: the reason is, travellers have quite worn it away, because of
- the badness of the roads; and the negligence of the people so far from
- repairing it, that they take away the materials. Moreover, you are oft
- in danger of losing it through the many intersections of cross roads;
- and sometimes it is inclosed with pastures, or passes under the sides
- of a wood: therefore upon every hill-top I made an observation of some
- remarkable object on the opposite high ground, which continued the
- right line; so that by going strait forwards I never failed of meeting
- it again. I observed too, that at such a time of the day exactly, the
- sun was perpendicular to the road; for it continues the same bearing
- throughout: this I tried by the compass soon after I left Lincoln,
- and when I came to High-cross, where it crosses the Watling-street,
- and at intermediate places; finding it always butted upon the same
- degree, to surprising exactness. At Abketilby in the vale of Belvoir,
- and thereabouts, in the quarries is a vein of rag-stone wholly made of
- shells, covered with a thin vein of good hewing stone: this is in one
- corner of that great vale, under the Lincolnshire <em>Alpes</em>.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Shipley-Hill</span> Br <i>barrow</i>.</div>
-
- <p>At Cossington (just before I came to the river Wrek, parting the
- counties) is a vast barrow, 350 foot long, 120 broad, 40 high or near
- it: it is very handsomely worked up on the sides, and very steep: it
- seems to have<span class="pagenum" id="Page_108">108</span> lost some of its length at both ends, especially the
- northern, a torrent running close by: it stands exactly north and
- south, upon the very edge of the ings; and in wet times it must be
- almost incompassed with water: they call it Shipley hill, and say a
- great captain called Shipley was buried there. I doubt not but this is
- of great antiquity, and Celtic, and that the intent of it is rightly
- preserved by the country people; but as to the name of him I can say
- nothing. On the top are several oblong double trenches cut in the
- turf, where the lads and lasses of the adjacent villages meet upon
- Easter-Monday yearly, to be merry with cakes and ale. I observed upon
- the Foss, all along, that in almost every parish were such like tables,
- for the same purpose; and such a one I formerly found at Rowldrich
- stones in Oxfordshire. Near this place, at Radcliff, so called from the
- road, it seems that the Foss road passes over this brook, and filling
- up its cavity, made it necessary to cut a new channel, that the road
- might run strait, and like the Roman <em>terminus</em> give place to
- nothing. Having passed the river, it proceeds over the meadows: just
- beyond them is a large round <em>tumulus</em>, which I suppose Roman:
- then the road goes strait through Thumarton, and ends full upon the
- east gate of Leicester. But before we speak of this station, we must
- with the Itinerary make an excursion to take in <em>Vernometum</em>.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Vernometum.</div>
-
- <div class="sidenote">TAB. XXII 2d Vol.</div>
-
- <p>There seems to be no Roman way between <em>Ratæ</em> and
- <em>Vernometum</em>;<a id="FNanchor_97" href="#Footnote_97" class="fnanchor">[97]</a> but coming from <em>Margidunum</em>, you turn out
- of the road by Sison over-against Radcliffe before mentioned. This
- place is Borough, or Erdborough, i. e. the earthy camp, in Gartre
- hundred east of Leicester. It is a very great Roman camp upon a very
- high hill, the north-west tip of a ridge of hills, and higher than any
- other part of it, of a most delightful and extensive prospect, reaching
- as far as Lincoln one way: the fortification takes in the whole summit
- of the hill; the high rampire is partly composed of vast loose stones
- piled up and covered with turf: it is of an irregular figure, humouring
- the form of the ground, nearly a square, and conformed to the quarters
- of the heavens: its length lies east and west, the narrowest end
- eastward: it is about 800 foot long, and for the most part there is a
- ditch besides the rampire, to render the ascent still more difficult
- to assailants: the entrance is south-west at a corner from a narrow
- ridge: here two rampires advance inwards, like the sides of a gate,
- for greater strength: within is a rising hill about the middle, and
- they say that vaults have been found thereabouts. Antiquarians talk
- of a temple, which possibly may have been there, and in the time of
- the Britons: thus the old <em>Fanum</em> of Apollo at Delphos was in a
- concavity on the top of a hill. The name of <em>Vernometum</em> signifies
- a sacred plain, as they tell us from authority. It contains about
- sixteen acres: several springs rise from under the hill on all sides,
- and I observed the rock thereof is composed intirely of sea-shells:
- they frequently carry away the stones that form the rampires, to mend
- the roads with. The town itself is now but a small village. There is
- another Roman castle southward near Tilton, but not so big as Borough
- hill: a petrifying spring near it, and a Roman road, as thought,
- called Long Hedges. I am not without suspicion that the true name is
- <em>Verometum</em>, and must be sought for somewhere near a river.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Ratæ</span> Coritanorum.</div>
-
- <div class="sidenote">TAB. XCII.</div>
-
- <p>Leicester is the <em>Ratæ Coritanorum</em> of the Romans. The trace
- of the Roman wall quite round is discoverable without difficulty,
- especially in the gardens about Senvy gate: there was a ditch on the
- outside, very visible in <span class="pagenum" id="Page_109">109</span>the gardens thereabouts: it
- is 2500 Roman feet long, and as much broad towards the south-east, 2000
- Roman feet broad to the north-west: this was repaired by Edelfleda,
- a noble Saxon lady, anno 914. but the stories in Mr. Camden, of the
- piles it stood on, and the indissoluble tenacity of the mortar, seem
- meant of the Roman work. The streets run in the manner we observed
- of <em>Camboritum</em>, the length of the city being from north-west
- to south-east. There is a Roman musive pavement in a cellar, in part
- remaining, of a person standing by a deer, Cupid drawing his bow,
- delineated in differently-coloured small stones as usual.<a id="FNanchor_98" href="#Footnote_98" class="fnanchor">[98]</a> The
- old work called Jewry wall is composed of rag-stone and Roman brick:<span class="sidenote">TAB. LV.</span>
- several fragments and foundations are in all the houses hereabouts of
- this building, whatever it were, as well as in the adjacent church,<span class="sidenote">TAB. XXIII. 2d Vol.</span>
- which seems to be built in the very <em>area</em> of it, and out of its
- ruins. Not far off is a place called Holy Bones, where abundance of
- bones of oxen have been dug up, the <em>exuvia</em> of their sacrifices:
- this is however a most noble piece of Roman antiquity, and I lament
- it should be so much abused. Many Roman coins are found at Leicester:
- at the entrance into White Friers a pot full dug up about five
- years ago, and many great foundations. At St. Mary de Pree’s abbey
- they dug up a body, about three years ago, which they supposed to
- be cardinal Wolsey’s: in this abbey is nought worth seeing, but a
- pleasant terrace-walk, supported by an embattled wall, with lunettes
- hanging over the river and shadowed with trees. The little remains of
- the old building are new modelled by later hands, and scarce to be
- distinguished: it was made a dwelling-house since the Dissolution; and
- that is now spoiled of floors, roof, and windows; and the naked walls
- are left to daily ruin and pillage: the spot of the abbey is turned
- into a garden: they show us a place in it, where has been much search
- for the famous cardinal’s body; but it did not seem to me a likely
- place. The church, though wholly erased, did not probably come out
- so far toward the river: indeed there is thorough work made of all
- the religious houses at Leicester, and scarce one stone left in its
- original site. St. Margaret’s church was a bishop’s see in the time of
- the Saxon kings. Within the castle is a collegiate hospital, founded
- by Henry earl of Lancaster, who with his son Henry duke of Lancaster
- lie buried in the chapel: the church was very fine, demolished in the
- Suppression. Here, say some, was buried Richard III. this castle was
- built by Simon de Montfort. There is a very pretty arch reaching across
- the river, called Bowbridge, at Black Friers, under which they have a
- notion that king Richard III. was buried; which seems to allude to the
- British romance that tells of king Lear being buried here. Half a mile
- southward from Leicester, upon the edge of the meadows is a long ditch
- called Rawdikes:<span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Rawdikes</span> <i>a</i> Br. <i>cursus</i>.</span> upon view of the place I found it to be a British
- <em>cursus</em>. King Charles I. when besieging Leicester, lay at the
- vicarage-house at Elston;<span class="sidenote">TAB. XXIV. XXV. XXVI. XXVII. 2d Vol.</span> and during the storm of the town, when his
- men took and pillaged it, he stood, as they report, upon the banks of
- this Rawdikes. About February 1721–2. a tesselated pavement was found
- the other side the river, about Wanlip, with coins of Constantine,
- broken urns, a human scull, &amp;c. a foundation by it, doubtless of the
- house that covered it.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4">
- <div><b><i>Prospect of</i> Burrow hill <i>from the Leicester
- road. Sep<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span> 8. 1722.</i> <span class="smcap" style="margin-left: 3em;">Vernometvm.</span></b></div>
- <div class="left xsmall" style="border: solid 1px; width: 23em; padding: 0.5em;"><i>Key found at Burrow Hill<br>T. Lyus Delin.<br>
- from Rev<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span> G Ashby’s Museolum at Barrow Suffolk. 1791</i></div>
- <img src="images/i_108_1.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div>
- <div><b>Will<sup>o</sup><span class="xsmall" style="margin-left: -0.4em;">:</span> Cheselden Chirurgo peritissimo, Amico <i>Tab. dd. W. Stukeley</i>.</b></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp68 mb4" id="i_108_2">
- <div class="plateno"><i>92</i></div>
- <div><b>RATÆ Coritanorum.<br><i class="small">8. Sep. 1722.</i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_108_2.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_109_1">
- <div class="plateno"><i>55</i></div>
- <div class="large"><b><i>The Roman Building commonly called the Temple of Janus at Leicester.</i></b></div>
- <img class="mt1" src="images/i_109_1.jpg" alt="">
- <div><i>Ne tantam Ruinam absorbeat Inimica Ætas aq. forti fecit.&nbsp; W<sup>s</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.4em;">.</span>
- Stukeley &amp; Sam<sup>i</sup> Gale Ar. consecratā voluit. 1722.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>23·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <div class="large"><b><i>The west side of the</i> roman building <i>at</i> <span class="smcap">Leicester</span> <i class="small">Sept: 8. 1722.</i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_109_2.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>24·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <img src="images/i_109_3.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>25·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <div><b><i>A Prospect of the British Cursus near Leicester, call’d Raw Dikes from the hills above.&nbsp; &nbsp; <span class="small">September 10. 1722.</span></i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_109_4.jpg" alt="">
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>26·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <div class="large"><b><i>The Side View of the British Cursus at Leicester Sep. 10. 1722.</i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_109_5.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>I. V<sup>der</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.6em;">.</span> Gucht Sculp.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb2">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>27·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <div class="large"><b><i>A Prospect of the British Cursus at Leicester call’d Rawdikes from the other side
- of y<sup>e</sup> River by the Foss road&nbsp; &nbsp; <span class="small">Sep. 9. 1722.</span></i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_109_6.jpg" alt="">
- </figure>
-
- <p>Soon after you go from Leicester, taking the Foss at Bronstongate, you
- come to some inclosures and troublesome gates across the road: here
- they have fenced it out into a narrow scantling, scarce the breadth
- of a coach, to the shame as well as the detriment of the country,
- suffering so scandalous <span class="pagenum" id="Page_110">110</span>an incroachment. I travelled by Narborough
- on the west side of the river, and a very wet journey under foot for
- one that was resolved to keep upon the road: sometimes I rode half
- a mile up to the horse’s belly in water upon the Roman pavement.
- The river Soar running near its east side, it is carried over many
- bogs, quags, and springs, for miles together, with a visible pavement
- of great round coggles by Sharnford, so called from the causeway:
- approaching High-cross it enters inclosures again, and is crossed by
- some more lakes scarce passable. Just upon the edge of Leicestershire
- and Warwickshire, at High-cross, I met the Watling-street, my future conductor.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Benonis.</div>
-
- <div class="sidenote">TAB. XCIII.</div>
-
- <p>Benonis stands in the intersection of the two great Roman roads that
- trathe kingdom obliquely, and seems to be the centre of England,
- and highest ground; for from hence rivers run every way. The Foss
- went across the back-side of the inn, and so towards Bath. The ground
- hereabouts, the site of the ancient city, is very rich; and many
- antiquities, stones, Roman bricks, &amp;c. have been dug up: Roman coins
- were found when they ploughed the field west of the cross.<a id="FNanchor_99" href="#Footnote_99" class="fnanchor">[99]</a> Much
- <em>ebulus</em> grows here, sought for in cure of dropsies. Claybroke
- lane has a bit of an old quick-set hedge left across it, betokening one
- side of the Foss: the bearing of the Foss here is exactly north-east
- and south-west, as upon the moor on this side Lincoln. In the garden
- before the inn was a <em>tumulus</em> lately taken away: under it they
- found the body of a man upon the plain surface, as likewise under
- several others hereabouts upon the Watling-street. Foundations of
- houses have been frequently dug up along the street here, all the
- way to Cleycester. Here is a cross of handsome design, but of a
- mouldering stone, through the villainy of the architect, one Dunkley,
- built at the charge of the late earl of Denbigh, and the gentlemen in
- the neighbourhood: it consists of four Doric columns regarding the
- four roads, with a gilded globe and cross a-top upon a sun-dial: on
- two sides, between the four Tuscan pillars, that compose a sort of
- pedestal, are these inscriptions.</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza" lang="la">
- <div class="i0"><i>Vicinarum provinciarum Vervicensis</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Scilicet &amp; Leicestrensis ornamenta</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Proceres patriciique auspiciis</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Illustrissimi Basilii comitis de</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Denbigh hanc columnam statuendam</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>curaverunt in gratam pariter</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>&amp; perpetuam memoriam Jani tandem</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>a serenissima Anna clausi.</i></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <div class="center">A. D. MDCCXII.</div>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza" lang="la">
- <div class="i0"><i>Si veterum Romanorum vestigia</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>quæras, hic cernas viator. Hic enim</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>celeberrimæ illorum viæ militares</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>sese mutuo secantes ad extremos usque</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Britanniæ limites procurrunt, hic</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>stativa sua habuerunt Vennones &amp; ad</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>primum abhinc lapidem castra sua</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>ad stratam &amp; ad fossam tumulum</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Claudius quidam cohortis præfectus</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>habuisse videtur.</i></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_111">111</span></p>
-
- <p class="noindent">Cloudbury-hill, two thorn-bushes upon a <em>tumulus</em> on the
- Foss, supposed the sepulchre of one Claudius. The city probably
- was of a square form, humouring the crossing of the roads, and had
- consequently four streets and four quarters. Many foundations are dug
- up along all the roads. It commands a charming prospect to <em>Ratæ</em>,
- <em>Vernometum</em>, Coventry, &amp;c. and quite round. You go through a gate
- by the cross to regain the Foss: at the length of a pasture it meets
- the true old road.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp68 mb4" id="i_110">
- <div class="plateno"><i>93</i></div>
- <div><b><span class="smcap">Bennonis.</span><br><span class="small"><i>Sep<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span> 9. 1722.</i></span></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_110a.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley del:</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>I. V<sup>der</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.6em;">.</span> Gucht Sculp.</i></div>
- <div class="mt3 clear"><i>Thomæ Bacon Ar Relliquias Romanas dd.&nbsp; W<sup>s</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span> Stukeley.</i></div>
- <img src="images/i_110b.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="small"><i>Coins found near High-Cross</i><br>
- High Cross. A.D. 1618.<br>
- High Cross, 1722.<br>
- <i>Bonnonis Sept. 9. 1722.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Watling-street.</span></div>
-
- <div class="sidenote">TAB. LVI.</div>
-
- <p>Being now got upon the Watling-street, I made this remark of it, that
- it is the direct road to Rome: for take a ruler, and lay it in a map
- of Europe from Chester through London and Dover, and it makes a strait
- line with Rome: so the great founders had this satisfaction when they
- travelled upon it, that they were ever going upon the line that led
- to the imperial Capitol. Our antiquarians are much at a loss, after
- torturing of words and languages, to find out the reason of the name
- of this street, which is so notorious, that many other by-roads of the
- Romans, in different parts of the kingdom, have taken the same, and it
- became almost the common appellative of such roads. My judgment of it
- is this: it is natural to denominate great roads from the places they
- tend to, as the Icening-street from the Iceni: the Akeman-street is
- said to come from Akemancester: in Wiltshire, and other places, the
- way to Exeter they call the Exeter road, though a hundred mile off:
- so the London road is every where inquired for as the most remarkable
- place: thus <em>Watling-street</em>, tending directly to Ireland, no
- doubt was called the Irish road, that is the <em>Gathelian</em> road,
- <em>Gathelin-street</em>; whence our present word <em>Wales</em> from
- <em>Gauls</em>, <em>warden</em> from <em>guardian</em>, &amp;c. <cite>Scoti qui &amp;
- Gaidelii</cite> says <em>ogygia extera</em>. Whether there be any thing
- in the story of Gathelus, as founder of the Irish, I do not concern
- myself at present; but their language is called <em>Gaothela</em>: so
- Mr. Camden says the true genuine Scots own not that name, but call
- themselves <em>gaoithel</em>, <em>gaiothlac</em>, as coming from Ireland;
- and that they glory in this name: and there is no dispute but this is
- the ancient appellative of the Irish,<a id="FNanchor_100" href="#Footnote_100" class="fnanchor">[100]</a> which the learned Mr. Edward
- Lluyd has turned into <em>Gwydhelians</em>: and this name, which has
- superseded that which the Romans gave it, (whatever it was) seems to
- show there was such a road in the ancient times of the Britons, as the
- track of the trade between Ireland and the continent; yet it must be
- owned nought but Roman hands reduced it to the present form.</p>
-
- <p>Hence-forward we turn our course upon the Gathelin-street directly for
- London along with the Itinerary. The road is now altogether between
- hedge-rows, very clayey and bad, full of lakes and mires, through the
- intolerable negligence of the inhabitants: here and there they have
- stupidly mended it, by making a ditch in the middle of the road to
- raise a bank of earth; for which they ought rather to be punished than
- commended.</p>
-
- <p>I turned out of the road to the west, through some inclosures, to see
- Cester-over, induced by the name. I found a house in a little square
- deeply intrenched upon the side of a hill, but the earth rather thrown
- outward than inward as a <em>vallum</em>, and the level within much
- lower than the field around it. I perceived it was a religious house;
- some part of the building left; and without the ditch a fine chapel,
- built of brick with good stone coins and mullioned windows, converted
- into a barn: and a-cross a valley hard by I saw dams, or stanks, for
- fish-ponds. The people within could give me no manner of intelligence,
- having but lately come thither. I fancied it to have been a nunnery,
- and that it was called <em>Sister-over</em>, to distinguish it from
- other neighbouring towns; as <em>Church-over</em>, <em>Browns-over</em>,
- <i>&amp;c.</i> but <span class="pagenum" id="Page_112">112</span>afterwards I learnt from other hands that there is a
- close called Old-town, where they dig up foundations, being very rich
- land (said to have been a city) lord Brook possessor.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Tripontium.</div>
-
- <div class="sidenote">TAB. XCIV.</div>
-
- <p>Thence passing a rivulet, from Bensford bridge<a id="FNanchor_101" href="#Footnote_101" class="fnanchor">[101]</a> I came to
- <em>Tripontium</em>, placed in a sweet little valley, but the sides
- pretty steep: the road on the opposite hill looks perfectly like a
- perspective scene at the play-house. This is the next Roman station,
- which is rightly placed at Dovebridge upon the Avon, running by Rugby
- to Warwick. The stream here divides into two, with a bridge over
- each: upon one a stone inscription, very laconic, showing the three
- counties that repair it. The first syllable of <em>Tripontium</em> has
- relation to the old British word <em>tre</em>, a town or fortification:
- the remainder is generally thought to signify a bridge; but it is not
- to be imagined the Romans would make a bridge over this rill, or one
- so eminently <span class="pagenum" id="Page_113">113</span>large as to denominate the town: indubitably it comes
- from the British word <em>pant</em>, a little valley as this is, and
- remarkably so; which the Britons pronouncing broad, created the Latin
- <em>Tripontium</em>. Here are no manner of remains of antiquity, but the
- distances on each hand ascertain this the place: hard by antiquities
- have been found both at Cathorp and Lilburn, one on the north, the
- other on the south of the river; so that the Roman city stood on both
- sides. Castle hills, a place at Lilburn, where are some old walls:
- Camden speaks of it. Mr. Morton has treated largely on this station, to
- whom I refer the reader. The neighbouring Newton probably succeeded it,
- and then Rugby.</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0">Yet rolling Avon still maintains its stream,</div>
- <div class="i0">Swell’d with the glories of the Roman name.</div>
- <div class="i0">Strange power of fate, unshaken moles must waste,</div>
- <div class="i0">While things that ever move for ever last!</div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">With this reflection of the poet leave we the name of
- <em>Tripontium</em>, made immortal in the imperial Itinerary.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_112">
- <div class="plateno"><i>94</i></div>
- <div><b>Johi Bridges Ar. <i>Romanæ Stationis in Comitatu Suo. delineationem d.d. W<sup>s</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span> Stukeley.</i></b></div>
- <div class="small"><i>Dowbridg</i><br>TRIPONTIUM<br>9 Sep. 1722</div>
- <img src="images/i_112.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <p>When we mount the next hill there is a lovely prospect as far as
- Watford-gap, four miles off, a great vale or rather level meadow lying
- between, a-cross which the road is drawn: and hereabouts the ridge of
- it is very high for miles together: the nature of the way, on both
- sides being stoney, has spared it. Several <em>tumuli</em> upon the road;
- bodies found under them: this shows the Romans did not travel upon
- them on horse-back. Watford-gap is a convenient inn for antiquaries
- to supply the mansion of <em>Tripontium</em>, which I think proper to
- advertise them of: it has a pleasant prospect of the road northwards:
- it is a high hill, and a rock of stone six foot under the surface,
- which is softish; then a bed of clay; under that a blue hard stone of
- good depth: below this rock it is springy, and at the bottom by the
- meadows are many quick springs. At Legers Ashby near here has been
- another old town, as they say, destroyed by the Danes: there are great
- ditches, causeways, and marks of streets. Catesby owned the town, who
- hatched the powder-plot. I went out of the road through Norton to see
- a great camp called<span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Burrow hill.</span> Ro. <i>camp</i>.</span> Burrow hill, upon the north end of a hill covered
- over with fern and goss: here is a horse-race kept; and the whole
- hill-top, which is of great extent, seems to have been fortified: but
- the principal work upon the end of it is squarish, double ditched, of
- about twelve acres: the inner ditch is very large, and at one corner
- has a spring: the <em>vallum</em> is but moderate: a squarish work
- within, upon the highest part of the camp, like a <em>prætorium</em>.
- They say this was a Danish camp; and every thing hereabouts is
- attributed to the <em>Danes</em>, because of the neighbouring
- <em>Daventre</em>, which they suppose to be built by them: the road
- hereabouts too being overgrown with <em>dane-weed</em>, they fancy it
- sprung from the blood of the Danes slain in battle, and that, if upon
- a certain day in the year you cut it, it bleeds. As to the camp, I
- believe it to be originally Roman; but that it has been occupied by
- some other people, and perhaps the Danes, who have new modelled it,
- and made new works to it. Consult Mr. Moreton, who has discoursed very
- largely about it. Much <em>cotyledon</em> and <em>ros solis</em> grow in
- the springs hereabouts: the stone is red and sandy, and brim-full of
- shells. I saw a fine <i>cornu ammonis</i> lie neglected in Norton town
- road, too big to bring away, and where they have fresh mended the
- Watling-street with this stone; it was an amusement for some miles to
- view the shells in it. Hereabouts the road is overgrown with grass and
- trefoil, being well nigh neglected for badness, and the trade<span class="pagenum" id="Page_114">114</span> wholly
- turned another way, by Coventry, for that reason. Between the head of
- the Leam and this Avon is<span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Arbury Hill.</span> Ro. <i>camp</i>.</span> Arbury hill in view, another Roman camp, upon
- a very high hill; notoriously made for a guard between the two rivers.</p>
-
- <p>The next station the Watling-street leads us to is Weedon on the
- street; beyond dispute <span class="sidenote smcap">Benavona.</span><i>Benavona</i>, as surely it ought to be
- wrote, being situate on the head of the <em>Aufona</em>, running to
- <em>Northavonton</em>, or Northampton.<span class="sidenote">TAB. XXVIII. 2d Vol.</span> This too affords but little matter
- for the antiquary. The old town seems to have been in two pastures west
- of the road, and south of the church, called Upper Ash-close and Nether
- Ash-close, or the Ashes; in which are manifest vestiges of the ditch
- and rampart that surrounded it, and many marks of great foundations:
- they show you the site of king Wolfhere’s palace, the Saxon kings
- of this province having their seat here. The Ashes was the Roman
- <em>castrum</em>: here was a chapel of St. Werberg, daughter of king
- Wolfhere, abbess to the nunnery in this place: there has been dug up
- abundance of very fine stone, and many Roman coins. Now Weedon consists
- of two parishes, and has been a market-town. There is a large Roman
- camp a little higher toward the river-head, southward a mile, as much
- from Watling-street, called <span class="sidenote smcap">Castledikes.</span>Castledikes, probably one of those made by
- P. Ostorius Scapula, <em>proprætor</em> under Claudius. Roman coin and
- pavements have been found there. I visited the place: it is of a very
- pleasant and healthful situation, being in a wood on the top of a dry
- hill: probably it was a Roman villa, afterwards rendered Saxon: a house
- stands by it. Another of these camps of Scapula I mentioned before,
- at Guildsborough. At Nether Hayford, on the other side the road, anno
- 1699, a Roman Mosaic pavement was found, of which Mr. Moreton gives us
- a drawing, but in too small a compass.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Lactorodum.</div>
-
- <p>Towcester is a considerable town between two rivulets; but what
- its Roman name, time has envied us, the Itinerary passing it by.
- <em>Lactorodum</em> is the next station, being Old Stretford, on the
- opposite side of the Ouse to Stony Stretford: many Roman coins have
- been found in the fields thereabouts, and queen Eleanor’s cross stood
- a little north of the Horse-shoe inn, pulled down in the rebellion;
- which shows that the town was on this side the bridge in the time of
- Edward I. Mr. Baxter says, the name imports the ford over the water. My
- friend Browne Willys esq; who lives in the neighbourhood, has inquired
- into the antiquities of this place, and gives us an account of them in
- his curious Treatise of Burroughs, which it is to be wished he would
- continue. A little on this side Stretford, to the west, upon very high
- ground stands Whaddon hall, Mr. Willys’s seat; it has a most delicate
- prospect: this manor formerly belonged to the lords Grey; one, a knight
- of the garter, lies buried in the church. Spencer the poet lived here,
- and the learned duke of Bucks. Here is the original picture of Dr.
- Willys: I saw many of his MSS. letters, consultations, lectures, and
- other works unprinted.</p>
-
- <p>Still higher stands Stukeley, a very large parish, on the same sort
- of soil as that in Huntingdonshire. This is the oldest church, and
- most intire, I ever saw, undoubtedly before the Conquest, in the plain
- ancient manner, being a parallelogram of four squares: two are allotted
- to the church; one covered by the steeple, which stands between it and
- the choir, carried across the church upon two round arches; one square
- to the choir, which is vaulted over with stone: the windows are small,
- with semi-circular arches, and few in number: at the west end are three
- arches, the door in the middlemost: the whole of a very good manner of
- symmetry.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>28·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <div><b><i>Prospect of</i> Benavona&nbsp; &nbsp; <i class="small">July 6<sup>th</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.4em;">.</span> 1725.</i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_114.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>Fletcher sculp.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_115">115</span></p>
-
- <p>Thus far we have gone through Northamptonshire and Bucks: now we
- enter Bedfordshire, and arrive at <span class="sidenote smcap">Magiovinium.</span><em>Magiovinium</em>, or Dunstable.
- The road hither from Fenny Stretford is deep sand (and comes from
- <em>Salinæ</em>, or <em>sandy</em>) till you arrive at the bottom of
- the chalk-hills, or <em>chiltern</em>, which arise very steep on this
- side, as being north-west, conform to my assumption, p. 4. The town
- stands upon this chalk; whence its Roman name, importing the white
- town:<a id="FNanchor_102" href="#Footnote_102" class="fnanchor">[102]</a> it consists of four streets, intersecting at right angles,
- but oblique to the cardinal points, because such is the direction of
- the Icening and Watling-street, which here meet. In the centre stood
- one of those beautiful crosses of queen Eleanor; but fanatic zeal has
- robbed the town of this ornament. This being a high situation, and no
- running water near, they are forced to draw up their water, from very
- deep wells, by machinery of great wheels. Kingsbury, the royal seat
- over-against the church, is now a farm-house. The church is composed of
- many parts tacked together, some very old: it was part of the priory:
- arch-bishop Cranmer was the last prior here. In Dunstable church is
- this inscription,</p>
-
- <blockquote>
- <p class="antiqua noindent" lang="la">Hic iacent Nicholaus Lane quondam presidens frat’nitat’<br>
- sci Johannis Baptiste De Dunstable qui obiit ii die mens’ Decembr<br>
- anno Dm M<sup>o</sup> CCCC<sup>o</sup> lir Et Agnes ur. ei<sup>o</sup> quorum animabus propicietur<br>
- Deus amen.</p>
- </blockquote>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Maiden Bower.</span> British.</div>
-
- <p class="noindent">I visited Maiden-Bower,<a id="FNanchor_103" href="#Footnote_103" class="fnanchor">[103]</a> mentioned by Mr. Camden, but cannot think
- its name has any relation to that of the town: though Roman coins
- have been found here, I am persuaded it is a British work, like that
- at Ashwell, at like distance from the Chiltern, and of like form, but
- more circular: it stands upon a plain, but not far from the edge of a
- lesser eminence of these hills, about a little mile from Dunstable: the
- rampire is pretty high, but very little sign of a ditch; nor do I think
- there ever was much more: it incloses about nine acres: the ground
- round it is ploughed: this chalk yields good wheat. Between here and
- the town is a long barrow called the Mill-hill, no doubt from a mill
- which was afterwards set upon it; the ends of it ploughed somewhat: it
- stands east and west: I have no scruple in supposing it Celtic. <span class="sidenote">Tumuli <i>British</i>.</span>A high
- prominence of the Chiltern overlooks all, called the Five Knolls, from
- that number of barrows, or Celtic <em>tumuli</em>, round, pretty large,
- and ditched about upon the very <em>apex</em> of the hill. Close by are
- two round cavities, as often observed in Wiltshire. The Icening-street
- runs under the bottom. These chalk hills have frequently veins of
- strong clay intermixed, and the like between these hills and the sand
- more northward. This great tract of chalk comes from the eastern
- sea, and traverses the kingdom much in a like direction with the
- Icening-street.</p>
-
- <p>At Woburn is some fullers earth. There was a noble abbey, now the seat
- of the duke of Bedford; in it several valuable works of Inigo Jones
- left, particularly a curious grotto.</p>
-
- <p>From Dunstable the Itinerary leads us out of the road, going strait to
- Verolam, and takes in another station by the way, <span class="sidenote smcap">Durocobrivis.</span><em>Durocobrivis</em>;
- which demonstrates it was made not so much for travellers, as for
- the soldiery or officers that were to visit the garrisons, therefore
- comprehends as many <span class="pagenum" id="Page_116">116</span>as could conveniently be taken into that route.
- About this station antiquaries have been much divided, when it
- certainly ought to be placed at Berghamsted, commonly Barkamstead,
- in <span class="sidenote">TAB XXIX. 2d Vol.</span>Hertfordshire, which well suits the assigned distances from
- <em>Magiovinium</em>, and the subsequent <em>Verolanium</em>, and has
- evidently been a Roman town, as its name imports; and probably the
- castle there stands upon a Roman foundation. It is certain Roman coins
- are frequently dug up there: my friend Mr. Browne Willys has a Roman
- coin, found there: young Mr. Whitfield, brother to the major at St.
- Alban’s, has many Roman coins, great and small, found in the castle
- at Berghamsted. The inside, within the walls where the lodgings were,
- is about two acres: the entrance was not at the corner, where now,
- but in the front of the south side: many chimneys remain in the wall,
- of the lodgings which extended quite round, leaving a spacious court
- within; and all the windows looked inward: the ground of the court is
- distinguishable, being good soil, and there they find the Roman coins;
- the rest is rubbish and foundations; so that the Saxon castle was made
- upon the Roman: the chapel seems to have stood against the west wall,
- where be signs of a stair-case: the walls are of flints gathered from
- the highlands, very thick, and laid with strong mortar. This town fully
- answers the distance in the Itinerary, and remarkably the import of
- the name, according to Mr. Baxter’s derivation, though he erroneously
- places it at Woburn, <i lang="la">civitas paludosi profluentis</i>; for here is
- a large marsh, or bog, wherein the ancient British <em>oppidum</em> was
- placed: it is most sweetly surrounded with high, hard, and pleasant
- ground all around, full of hedge-rows, pastures, and arable: the castle
- was set very judiciously in the north side, upon a piece of dry ground,
- incompassed with springs, by the Saxons made exceedingly strong. The
- town is upon the south side of the marsh, stretching itself a good
- length in handsome buildings, and a broad street: the church is a large
- handsome building, a monumental <em>effigies</em> of a knight and a lady;
- upon his coat a bend or belt, and in the sinister chief a martlet; a
- lion his crest under his feet: it is full of chapels and monuments old
- and new. This town has been an old corporation; the kings of Mercia
- resided here; Wightred, king of Kent and Mercia, anno 697, held a
- parliament here; and here king Ina’s laws were published: all which
- further confirm its being the place we assert.<a id="FNanchor_104" href="#Footnote_104" class="fnanchor">[104]</a></p>
-
- <p>Near is Ashridge, an abbey, now the seat of the duke of Bridgewater;
- a park finely wooded, especially with tall beech-trees full of mast.
- Hereabouts I observed many great stones composed wholly of little
- pebbles; others, of larger pebbles or flints petrified together
- exceeding hard. Near Ricmeresworth, at Moor park, Mr. Styles, digging a
- hill away, found veins of sea-sand with mussels in them, and many other
- curious particulars.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Verolanium.</div>
-
- <div class="sidenote">TAB. XCV.</div>
-
- <p>We come again into the Watling-street at <em>Verolanium</em>. I need say
- little here, after Mr. Camden, Chancey, Weaver, and others. This was
- the famous <em>municipium</em> of the Romans, destroyed by Boadicia. The
- form of the city is depicted in <a href="#i_116_2">plate 95</a>. in one part the ditch is
- double, but irregularly formed. I imagine the outermost was the only
- fence of the first city, which Boadicia destroyed before the walls
- were built, and these reduced it into a more square form; to which
- the inner ditch belonged. In some measure the track of the streets is
- visible, when the corn first comes up, or is nearly ripe: three years
- ago good part of the wall was standing; but ever <span class="pagenum" id="Page_117">117</span>since, out of
- wretched ignorance, even of their own interest, they have been pulling
- it up all around, to the very foundations, to mend the highway; and
- I met hundreds of cart-loads of Roman bricks, &amp;c. carrying for that
- purpose, as I now rode through the old city, though they may have
- stone cheaper, because of the prodigious strength of the mortar, so
- that they cannot get up one whole brick in a thousand. The composition
- of the Roman wall is three foot layers of flint, and one foot made up
- of three courses of Roman brick: there are round holes quite through
- the wall, at about eight yards distance, in that corner still left by
- St. German’s chapel: another great piece of the wall is left by the
- west gate, called Gorham Block; it is always twelve foot thick. I saw
- a little brass <em>lar</em>, or <em>genius alatus</em>; another curious
- antiquity, of a brass knife-handle with odd faces and figures on it,
- now in possession of Sir Robert Cornwall, baronet; a little urn of
- white earth two inches and quarter high: part of a great wine-jar,
- 20 inches high, two foot diameter, in St. Michael’s vestry; another
- such in St. Alban’s church. In St. Michael’s church sleeps the great
- naturalist Bacon, who first revived the experimental way of philosophy:
- his mansion-house or manor was at Gorhambury, hard by, where is a
- statue of Henry VIII. and several things worth seeing: it is now the
- seat of my lord Grimstone. Infinite are the antiquities of all sorts
- that have been, and frequently are, dug up at <em>Verolam</em>. When I
- was making an ichnography of it, I could have taken several pecks of
- remainders of Mosaic pavements out of a little ditch near St. German’s
- chapel; and there is one or two intire yet under ground. As you walk
- along the great road that runs north and south through the city from
- St. Michael’s church, you see foundations of houses and streets,
- gutters, floors, &amp;c. under the hedge-rows. The ancient part of the
- monastic church and the steeple are intirely built of Roman brick,
- fetched by the abbots from the old city. March 1718–9 a Mosaic pavement
- was found. The Roman bricks are generally eighteen inches long, twelve
- broad, one and a half thick. I measured one in the south-wall of the
- school-house, by the east end of the abbey church, twenty-three inches
- long, three thick, which probably was made for hypocausts. Upon the
- walls of old <em>Verulam</em> grows the <em>bee orchis</em>, a very curious
- plant. Many are the monuments, brasses, tombs, and inscriptions, in
- the abbey church: the vault of Humphry duke of Glocester was lately
- discovered: the high altar is a curious piece of Gothic work, which I
- have represented in two plates. Hard by is Sopwell nunnery, <span class="sidenote">TAB XXX XXXI.</span>where they
- say Henry VIII. was married to Anna Bolen: part of it is standing.
- But to say any thing particular of religious antiquities, would be
- too tedious: they have lately been working hard at pulling up the old
- foundations of the abbey, and it is now levelled with the pasture, when
- three years ago one might make a tolerable guess at the ichnography
- of the place. In the heart of the town of the adjoining corporation
- stood another of queen Eleanor’s crosses, which they likewise intirely
- demolished, not considering that such kind of antiquities invite many
- curious travellers to come thither. This very year they pulled down
- the stone tower or gate-house on the north side of the abbey, within a
- month after I had taken a sketch of it. In St. Peter’s church I found
- this old inscription on a stone,</p>
-
- <div class="center"><span class="antiqua">EDITHE : LE : UINETER : GIST : ICI : DIEU : DE<br>
- SA : ALME : EIT : MERCI.</span></div>
-
- <p class="noindent">I shall add no more, than that my notion of the derivation of this
- town, and several others compounded of like words, is, a fair
- habitation, <em>Vrolân</em>, as it justly merits.</p>
-
- <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_118">118</span></p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>29·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <div><b><i>Prospect of</i> Berghamsted&nbsp; <i>14. Sept. 1724.</i>&nbsp; <span class="smcap">Dvrocobrivis.</span></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_116_1.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_116_2">
- <div class="plateno"><i>95</i></div>
- <div class="large"><b><span class="smcap">Verolanivm</span></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_116_2.jpg" alt="">
- <div>Martino Folkes Ar. observantiæ ergo d. <i>W. Stukeley</i></div>
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>Parker Sculp.</i></div>
- <ol class="alpha left small">
- <li><i>To</i> Suellaniacis</li>
- <li><i>The Monastrey</i></li>
- <li><i>Sopwell a Nunnery</i></li>
- <li><i>S<sup>t</sup> Stephens</i></li>
- <li><i>Q. Elenors-cross</i></li>
- <li><i>S<sup>t</sup> Michaels</i></li>
- <li><i>A Bell-tower</i></li>
- <li><i>S<sup>t</sup> Marys chap</i>:</li>
- </ol>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp75 mb4" id="i_117_1">
- <div class="plateno"><i>30</i></div>
- <img src="images/i_117_1.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley d.</i></div>
- <figcaption><i>The high Altar at S<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span> Albans. 28. Dec 1720.</i></figcaption>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp75 mb4" id="i_117_2">
- <div class="plateno"><i>31</i></div>
- <img src="images/i_117_2.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley d.</i></div>
- <div><i>The back side of the high altar at S<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span> Albans</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <p>The Watling-street seems to have passed directly through the Roman
- city, a little southward of St. Michael’s church and St. Mary’s chapel,
- so by St. Stephen’s: nevertheless there is a road round about, without
- the south side of the city-walls, for those that had no occasion to
- go through the city: it goes by St. Julian’s, once an hospital; then
- by Colney-street and Radway; thence almost disused, and scarce known
- but from its straitness: it continues direct, but very narrow, the
- hedges having incroached upon it on both sides, till we arrive at our
- next station, <span class="sidenote smcap">Suellaniacis.</span><em>Suellaniacis</em>, upon Brockley hill, a little south
- of Elstre, and near Stanmore. From this eminence, where Mr. Philpot’s
- summer-house stands, is a sweet prospect across the Thames into Surrey:
- this is by Kendale wood, where formerly they found an old flint wall
- laid in terrace-mortar as they call it, meaning its strength, so hard
- that they could not possibly dig it up with pick-axes: they found
- an oven in the same place. Mr. Philpot, when digging his canal and
- foundations for his buildings, which are upon the site of the old city,
- found many coins, urns, and other antiquities. They have a proverb here,</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0"><i>No heart can think, nor tongue can tell,</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>What lies between</i> Brockley-hill <i>and</i> Penny-well;</div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">meaning the coins found thereabouts. In the wood over-against the
- house, great quantity of Roman bricks, gold rings, and coins, have been
- found in digging; many arched vaults of brick and flints under the
- trees: the whole top of the hill is covered with foundations. Pennywell
- is a parcel of closes across the valley beyond <em>Suellaniacis</em>,
- where foundations are discernible: here likewise they say was a city:
- two or three years ago they dug privately, in hopes of finding treasure
- at this place. I am of Mr. Baxter’s opinion, that the name of this
- station has some reference to the famous British king <em>Suellan</em>,
- or Cassibelan, general of the Britons against Cæsar, and that his town
- was in this neighbourhood; which I shall consider more particularly
- upon another occasion. By the road side is a barrow lately dug away.</p>
-
- <p>Hence the road goes through Edgworth; and so at Paddington, by Tyburn,
- it crosses the other Roman road, called now Oxford-street, which was
- originally continued to Old-street, going north of London one way;
- the other way it proceeds by the back side of Kensington, and through
- an unfrequented path, till it falls into the present great road to
- Brentford, Stanes, &amp;c. and it is a Roman road all the way, going pretty
- nearly east and west: therefore our Watling-street must cross it with
- an oblique angle; and by observation I found it to be about forty-five
- degrees. Higden takes notice the Watling-street ran to the west of
- Westminster, over the Thames, so through the middle of Kent: from
- Tyburn I judge it goes over part of Hyde-park,<a id="FNanchor_105" href="#Footnote_105" class="fnanchor">[105]</a> and by May-fair,
- through St. James’s park, to the street by Old Palace-yard called the
- Wool-staple, to the Thames. Here has been an old gate; one part of
- the arch is still left, but not Roman. On the opposite side of the
- river is Stane-gate ferry, which is the continuation of this street
- to Canterbury, and so to the three famous sea-ports, <em>Rutupiæ</em>,
- <em>Dubris</em>, and <em>Lemanis</em>. This Oxford road was originally
- carried north of London, in order to pass into Essex, because London
- then was not considerable; but in a little time became well nigh
- lost; and Holborn was struck out from it, as conducting travellers
- thither, directly entering the city at Newgate, originally called
- Chamberlain’s gate, and so to Londonstone, <span class="pagenum" id="Page_119">119</span>the <i>lapis milliaris</i>
- from which distances are reckoned: and hence the reason why the name
- of Watling-street is still preserved in the city, though the real
- Watling-street goes through no part of it, but through Southwark; or,
- if we please, we may call this a vicinal branch of the Watling-street.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp68 mb4" id="i_119">
- <div class="plateno"><i>57</i></div>
- <div><b><span class="smcap large">Londinivm</span> Augusta<br><i class="small">7. Nov. 1722.</i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_119.jpg" alt="">
- <div>Illustrissimo Comiti Penbrokiæ Moecenati Eximio Sacra Tabula.</div>
- <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Londinium.</div>
-
- <div class="sidenote">TAB. LVII.</div>
-
- <p>According to method I should speak of <em>Londinium</em> here: but
- because the great deal that may be said thereupon will make a discourse
- by itself, we content ourselves at present with giving the plan of
- it, as we suppose it might appear in the times of the Romans; and so
- continuing our tour into Kent, will finish the whole continuation of
- the Watling-street with what few memoirs I could pick up at that time.</p>
-
- <p>As Old-street went on the north of London, so the proper Watling-street
- we have been upon, since High-cross in Warwickshire, went on the
- south; from Stane-gate ferry across St. George’s fields, so south of
- the Lock hospital to Deptford and Black heath: a small portion of the
- ancient way pointing to Westminster abbey is now the common road on
- this side the nearest turnpike; but the continuation of it is quite
- lost since the bridge was made, and all roads meet at that centre
- as so many <em>radii</em>. When London became considerable, the ferry
- over-against it, from being better attended, rendered that at Stangate
- almost useless; so passengers went through the city by Canon-street,
- Watling-street, and Holborn: hence so little appears of it between
- Tyburn and the Lock hospital; and probably its materials were long
- since wholly dug away to mend the highways. Upon this way in Southwark
- many Roman antiquities have been found, particularly a <em>Janus</em>
- of stone, in possession of Dr. Woodward: but our business shall be to
- prosecute the end of the second journey and the whole third and fourth
- of Antoninus.</p>
-
- <p>From Shooters hill the direction of the road is very plain both ways: a
- mile westward from the bottom of the hill you find vestiges of it just
- upon the common: some part of the <em>agger</em> is left, made of gravel
- near at hand: from the top of Shooters hill you see it butts upon
- Westminster abbey, where it passes the Thames; and this demonstrates
- its original direction, and that it was begun from the east; for the
- turn of the river at Greenwich intercepts it, though not observed in
- maps: so the way is forced to deflect a little southward there, and
- then recovers its point: beyond that hill it is very strait as far as
- the ken reaches. On Black heath a vast <em>tumulus</em>, now used as a
- butt for <em>archers</em>, hereabouts in great request till Henry the
- <abbr title="8th’s">VIIIth’s</abbr> time: and hence the name of <em>Shooters</em> hill.</p>
-
- <p>It is to be noted that in the second journey of Antoninus,
- <em>Madviacis</em>, Maidstone, and <em>Durobrovis</em>, Rochester, are
- transposed; therefore in the whole between London and Rochester it is
- twenty-eight miles, as in both the next journeys called twenty-seven,
- (but more rightly the former:) so that, as the Watling-street leads
- directly over Shooters hill between London and Rochester, and seeing
- the whole distance is answerable to fact, we need be in no pain for
- finding out the intermediate station, <span class="sidenote smcap">Noviomagus.</span><em>Noviomagus</em>: doubtless it
- was about Wellend or Crayford,<a id="FNanchor_106" href="#Footnote_106" class="fnanchor">[106]</a> as Mr. Somner judges, where the
- respective distances on each side point it out: notwithstanding, as to
- matters of antiquity, we have nothing to say. So with good reason Dr.
- Plot settles <em>Pennocrucium</em> at Stretton in Staffordshire, because
- it is upon this same Watling-street, and answers the distances, though
- no Roman antiquities are there discovered; and the like must we do
- of other places. No doubt there were two stations between London and
- Rochester, though <span class="pagenum" id="Page_120">120</span>only one mentioned in the Itinerary:
- <span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Northfleet.</span> Ro. <i>town</i>.</span>Northfleet
- seems to be the other, where many antiquities are found. I heard much
- talk of an old town at Plumsted, nearer the Thames, and to which
- they say the river came up originally: if true, perhaps this was the
- <em>Noviomagus</em>, and the <em>Trinobantum</em>, or <em>Trenowydh</em> of
- the Britons, i. e. the town of the <em>Novii</em> or <em>Novantes</em>,
- of which their old writers make a din, and would affix it to London:
- they say there are much ruins there. East of Crayford, all along
- upon the heath, as well as on the other side from Shooters hill, the
- ridge of the Watling-street is very visible; but beyond Dartford the
- common road leaves it quite on the south side, which induced me to
- follow the Roman: it becomes a lane presently, and passes in a very
- strait line, for five or six miles, through little valleys, woods, and
- inclosures; and about that distance I lost both it and myself in a wood
- by Southfleet; which obliged me to endeavour again to recover the great
- road: by the quantity of ground I went for that purpose, I guess this
- is a branch of the main road directly to Maidstone, for the convenience
- of such as intended to go strait to <em>Lemanis</em> by <em>Durolenum</em>.
- The soil from London to Dartford is gravel, but the highest ground has
- sand: beyond to Rochester it is chalk full of flints and gravel: the
- flints lie in <em>strata</em>, very black, and squeezed flat like mortar
- in the course of a wall; and above the chalk is pure sand.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Durobrivis.</div>
-
- <p>The river Medway at Rochester is very broad and rapid, foaming most
- violently: there is a stately bridge built across it: below bridge lie
- about fifty of our biggest first rate men of war unrigged, such as
- the Royal Sovereign, Britannia, Barfleur, &amp;c. The Roman city was very
- strong, being walled about and ditched:<a id="FNanchor_107" href="#Footnote_107" class="fnanchor">[107]</a> near that angle below the
- bridge, <span class="sidenote">TAB. XXX. 2d Vol.</span>incompassed by the river, is a large piece of Roman building
- of the wall, made of rubble-stone laid sloping side-ways, here and
- there Roman bricks: houses are built upon it, and it is broke through
- for a passage; in the inside much flint. Dr. Thorp has great numbers
- of antiquities found hereabouts. This city stands in an angle of the
- river: it seems to have been of a square form, the Watling-street
- running directly through it: most of the walls still remain, but
- repaired. <span class="sidenote">TAB. VI.</span>The castle was built out of one angle by William the
- Conqueror, which together with the cathedral has altered the regular
- ground-plot of the city, as at Lincoln: the walls of the great tower
- now left are four yards thick. The body of the cathedral is of the
- original structure before the Conquest, repaired by bishop Gundulf an
- architect, who likewise built the castle: the great tower is now called
- Gundulf’s tower. The chalky cliff under the castle-wall next the river
- is a romantic sight: the rapidity of the river wastes it away; and then
- huge tracts of the wall fall down: in some places you see the bottom of
- the broad foundation, and which in others is carried down to the water.
- On the north side of the north-west tower of the church is Gundulf’s
- <em>effigies</em>.<a id="FNanchor_108" href="#Footnote_108" class="fnanchor">[108]</a> The front of the church is of the old work, but a
- new window put in the middle. The eastern gate of the city was pulled
- down not long ago: I saw many of the stones distributed among the
- adjacent buildings, being of a Roman cut.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Vaginacis.</div>
-
- <div class="sidenote">TAB. XXXI. XXXII. XXXIII. XXXIV. 2d Vol.</div>
-
- <p>We must now, according to the Itinerary, leave the Watling-street, and
- go to Maidstone. The road hither passes by that famous British monument
- called Kits-coty-house. It cannot be disputed but that Maidstone is the
- next Roman station. <em>Mædwæg</em> I apprehend signifies the meadows
- upon the river <em>Vaga</em>, which are here beautiful: whether the
- Latin word be <span class="pagenum" id="Page_121">121</span><em>Madviacis</em>, or <em>Vagniacis</em>, I
- see no difficulty in forming it from the British.<a id="FNanchor_109" href="#Footnote_109" class="fnanchor">[109]</a> The archbishop
- of Canterbury had a palace here, founded by John Ufford, finished by
- Simon Islip: a college or hospital was erected by A. B. Boniface, and
- a chantry by Thomas Arundel, now the free-school. About 1720, they dug
- up several canoos, made of hollowed trees, in the marshes of the river
- Medway above Maidstone: one is used for a boat to this day. I saw, in
- the hands of Dr. Dodd, a British coin of <em>electrum</em>, found at
- Addington near Malling, anno 1720, in the foundation of a stone wall:
- on the concave side a British horse, rude enough; the convex was plain.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>30·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <img src="images/i_120_1.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>Toms Sculp.</i></div>
- <figcaption><i>A Piece of the Roman Wall at Rochester 7. Oct. 1724.</i></figcaption>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_120_2">
- <div class="plateno"><i>6</i></div>
- <div><b>Rochester <i>Castle 4 Oct. 1722.</i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_120_2.jpg" alt="">
- <figcaption>Dno J. ohi Elwill Bar.<sup>tto</sup> dd. <i>W. Stukeley.</i></figcaption>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>31·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <div><b><i>A Prospect of Kits Coty:house Kent Oct: 15. 1722.</i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_120_3.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div>
- <div class="small"><b><i>Illustrissimo</i> Heneagio <i>Comiti Winchilsea Animi fortitudine &amp;
- eruditione singulari plusquam titulis nobili, Antiquitatem hanc</i> D. W<sup>s</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span> Stukeley.</b></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>32·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <div><b>Kits Coty house <i>15. Oct. 1722. The N. E. Prospect.</i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_120_4.jpg" alt="">
- <div><b><i>The lower</i> Coty <i>house</i></b></div>
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>33·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <div><b><i>A Prospect of the Country from</i> Kits Coty house&nbsp; <i>15 Oct. 1722</i>.</b></div>
- <img src="images/i_120_5.jpg" alt="">
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>34·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <img src="images/i_120_6.jpg" alt="">
- <div><b><i>View of the Ruins of the Lower Coty house.</i> A. <i>The Upper Coty house.</i></b></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_121">
- <div class="plateno"><i>27</i></div>
- <div><b>Dno. Samueli Lennard <i>Barr. <sup>to</sup> Tabula Votiva</i>.</b></div>
- <img src="images/i_121.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div>
- <div class="small"><b><i>5 Oct. 1722. Prospect of the Remains of</i> Feversham Abby <i>where K. Stephen was buried.</i></b></div>
- </figure>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Durolenum.</div>
-
- <p>From thence the Itinerary leads us to <em>Durolenum</em>. The learned
- Talbot first guessed it to be Charing; and to me he seems to be in
- the right. It is upon a spring of the river Len. The present name
- is derived from the British <em>Caer</em>, as they called all Roman
- towns in after-times: anciently it was wrote <em>Cering</em> with a
- Saxon termination, intimating the meadows it stands upon. Roman
- antiquities are found all about, but nothing I have yet met withal,
- that particularly fixes the spot the Roman city stood upon. Near is a
- manor called Broughton; Chart<a id="FNanchor_110" href="#Footnote_110" class="fnanchor">[110]</a> is the name of the hundred, from
- two little adjoining villages: but at this place the distances answer
- well, and the roads in many parts appear: that from hence to Canterbury
- passed by Chilham; so over the river Stour by Sharnford, which retains
- the British name of a causeway. The archbishops of Canterbury had a
- castellated palace at Charing, probably given them by some of the first
- Saxon kings, as a royal demesne of theirs: there are large ruins of
- it still left. Here was a chantry founded by Sir John Burley. All the
- ground upon the river Len at the bottom of the great ridge of hills
- is sand, sometimes exceeding white; between that and the bottom of
- the hills it is flinty: the hills themselves are pure chalk. All Kent
- consists of large tracts of ground gradually rising from the east to a
- western ridge steep that way, so succeeded by another of like manner;
- but any of these tracts are made up of little hills and short valleys,
- quite of a different nature from those on the west side of the island:
- and Mr. Camden has observed this before us, as to the northern part
- of the island, p. 533. <cite>Britannia</cite>. We may gather an idea of
- the natural reason of it from what we spoke at first, of the ground
- hardening upon the instant of the earth’s rotation.</p>
-
- <p>After we have made this excursion with Antoninus, to take in these
- two stations, which seems to have been done to conduct travellers the
- nearest way to the <em>portus Lemanis</em>, we return again to Rochester,
- that we may finish the progress of the Watling-street.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Feversham.</div>
-
- <p>From Rochester the Watling-street continues very strait to Canterbury,
- by Feversham, whither I went to visit the remains of the monastery
- founded by king Stephen, and where he was buried with his family. At
- present nothing left but <span class="sidenote">TAB. XXVII.</span>two gate-houses, and they of mean structure:
- the hall was standing intire within this forty year; but now the whole
- monastery is level with the ground, and converted into orchards, so
- that I could not so much as guess at the place where the church was.
- They have a report still, that at the dissolution of abbeys they took
- up the coffin of <span class="pagenum" id="Page_122">122</span>lead wherein the king was buried, and sold it: as
- for his corpse, they threw it into the Thames. Here king Ethelstan
- enacted laws, anno 903. At <span class="sidenote smcap">Newington.</span>Newington seems to have been another
- station: many Roman coins and antiquities have been found <span class="sidenote">Ro. <i>town</i>.</span>there. Vide
- large accounts thereof in Burton’s Itinerary, p. 181. and Casaubon’s
- translation of Antoninus Philos. Beyond Broughton, which seems to have
- been another,<a id="FNanchor_111" href="#Footnote_111" class="fnanchor">[111]</a> you come to a very high hill, steep on the west. The
- Watling-street here first presents the tower of the cathedral in its
- line, and both together make a fine show:</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza" lang="la">
- <div class="i0"><i>Apparet rursum moles operosa viarum,</i></div>
- <div class="i2"><i>Consurgit stratis agger ubique suis.</i></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Durovernum.</div>
-
- <p>Canterbury is deservedly famous for religious as well as Roman
- antiquity, being the place where christianity first made its entrance
- among our Saxon ancestors. Here are many remains of Roman buildings,
- many made of <span class="sidenote">TAB. XCVI.</span>Roman materials in the Saxon times: many antiquities found
- in digging about the hop-grounds; your lordship has quantities of them.
- The city is strongly walled about, and many lunettes or towers at due
- intervals; a deep ditch close underneath, and a great rampart of earth
- within. The original ground-plot here, as in many other cities, is
- spoiled by churches built in the middle of streets. To the south is an
- old obscure gate, called <span class="sidenote">TAB. LIV.</span>Worth gate, partly walled up: it is under the
- castle. This is intirely a Roman work: the semi-circular arch is of
- Roman brick, beautifully turned; the piers of stone; the thickness of
- it is three Roman feet. I suppose this the original gate of the Roman
- city, and from hence went the road which presently divides itself into
- two: the one goes by Chilham to <em>Durolenum</em>, over the river at
- Sharnford, as we said; the other goes in a very strait line, by the
- name of Stone-street, to the port of <em>Lemanis</em>. The castle built
- here in William the Conqueror’s time, extending its limits beyond
- this gate, was the occasion of blocking it up; and so Winchup gate
- was built a little further eastward, to supply its use. The castle is
- much of the same form as that at Rochester, and the walls of the same
- thickness. A little further within the walls is a very high mount,
- called Dungeon hill: a ditch and high bank inclose the <em>area</em>
- before it: it seems to have been part of the old castle. Opposite to it
- without the walls is a hill, seeming to have been raised by the Danes
- when they besieged the city. The top of Dungeon hill is equal to the
- top of the castle, and has a fine prospect over the city and country.
- The materials of the city-walls are chiefly flint. Next to this, where
- the Watling-street comes,<a id="FNanchor_112" href="#Footnote_112" class="fnanchor">[112]</a> is Riding-gate, built by a mayor of
- the city, but evidently in the place of the Roman one; for there is
- part of the Roman arch, and the pier of one side, still visible, but
- much lower than the present gate: and in a yard close by is part of
- the arch of a postern, or foot-gate, by the side of it: these arches
- are of Roman brick, and there are in the wall here and there some more
- fragments of the Roman work. The draught of it I have given in the
- plate of the city ground-plot, 96. Hence the Watling-street passes
- directly to Dover, over Barham downs. Next to East-gate is another
- gate, opposite to what they call St. Ethelbert’s tower: this is the way
- to the port of <span class="sidenote">TAB. XXV.</span><em>Rutupium</em>. Here is the famous monastery of St.
- Augustin, the first metropolitan, built, as they say, near the palace
- of the converted king Ethelbert: two gates remain next the city, and
- both very stately: perhaps one belonged to the palace, the other to the
- monastery, which doubtless <span class="pagenum" id="Page_123">123</span>as magnificent as richly endowed; and
- such its ruins demonstrate, and the great compass of ground it took
- up, incircled with a very high wall. Great vying was ever here between
- the religious of St. Austin and of Tho. à Becket, both very rich and
- contentious. At the west end of this church, as I conjecture, were two
- great towers: half of one is still remaining, called <span class="sidenote">TAB. XXIV.</span>Ethelbert’s tower:
- all the whole stones and pillars about it are skinned off as far as
- they can reach; and every year a buttress, a side of an arch, or the
- like, passes <em>sub hasta</em>. There is part of the other standing,
- if it can be so said, that is only not fallen; I call it <i lang="la">muro
- torto</i>: it is a vast angular piece of the tower, about thirty foot
- high, which has been undermined by digging away a course at bottom,
- in order to be thrown down; but it happened only to disjoint itself
- from the foundation, and leaping, as it were, a little space, lodged
- itself in the ground in that inclining state, to the wonderment of the
- vulgar who do not discern the meaning of it, though the foundation
- it came from is sufficiently visible: thus happening to be equally
- poized, it is a sight somewhat dreadful, and forbids a too near
- approach on any side, with the apprehension of its falling that way.
- Under St. Ethelbert’s tower is the porch where St. Augustin and his six
- successors, as Bede tells us, were interred: the arched roof is left,
- but ready to fall: the pavement is gone, in the middle of which was an
- altar. The adjacent close is full of religious ruins and foundations,
- one great part turned into a stable near the almery: all over they
- are busy in pulling it up, to sell the stones; which generally pays
- the rent, and yet the tenants of such places thrive never the more.
- <span class="sidenote">TAB. XXV.</span>In one corner of this field are the walls of a chapel, said to have
- been a christian temple before St. Augustin’s time, and reconsecrated
- by him to St. Pancras: a great apple-tree and some plum-trees now
- grow in it: the lower part of it is really old, and mostly made of
- Roman brick, and thicker walls than the superstructure: there is an
- old Roman arch on the south side toward to altar, the top of it about
- as high as one’s nose; so that the ground has been much raised: the
- present east window is a pointed arch, though made of Roman brick,
- later than St. Austin’s time: near it a little room, said to have been
- king Ethelbert’s pagan chapel: however it be, both these and the wall
- adjoining are mostly built of Roman brick: the breadth of the mortar is
- rather more than the brick, and full of pebbles; but the mark of the
- devil’s claws, there observed by the vulgar, is fantastical. The garden
- and orchard adjoining seem to lie in their ancient form: there is a
- large square mount close by the wall, which it equals in height, and
- gives a prospect into the fields. Your lordship has a huge water-pipe
- dug up among many other antiquities in a Roman bath discovered at
- Canterbury: it is five inches and a half diameter at the smaller end,
- seventeen long, seven in diameter at the broad end: they were fastened
- into one another with strong terrace cement. The great number of other
- antiquities of all sorts, found at and about this city, make part of
- your fine collection.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_122">
- <div class="plateno"><i>96</i></div>
- <div><b>DVROVERNVM. <i>5 Oct. 1722</i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_122.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>I. Harris sculp.</i></div>
- <div>Collegæ charissimo Johi Gray M. D. Civitatē svā <i>dd. W. Stukeley.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_123_1">
- <div class="plateno"><i>24</i></div>
- <div><i>The Ruins of S<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span> Augustins Church<br>
- in the Porch of which the English Apostle<br>
- was bury’d, now called Ethelberts tower<br>at Canterbury Oct. 6. 1722.<br>
- Dedicated to her Grace the Dutchess of Ancaster.</i></div>
- <img src="images/i_123_1.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>I.V.<sup>der</sup> Gucht Sculp.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_123_2">
- <div class="plateno"><i>25</i></div>
- <div><b><i>A View in S<sup>t</sup> Austins Monastery Canterbury</i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_123_2.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="col35"><b><i>S<sup>t</sup> Gregorys Chappel</i></b></div>
- <div class="col65"><b><i>The Heathen chappel of Ethelbert. 6 Oct. 1722</i></b></div>
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>Harris sculp.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <p>Eastward of this, and farther out of the city, is the church of
- St. Martin, said to be the christian place of devotion, where king
- Ethelbert’s queen used to go, and St. Austin’s first see: it is built,
- for the most part, of Roman brick: in the middle is a very large
- old-fashioned font, supposed that where the king was baptised. North
- of the city is a very small remnant of St. Gregory’s chapel, founded
- probably by Austin to the honour of his patron.</p>
-
- <p>The cathedral of Canterbury is very stately, but neither in length,
- breadth, nor height, especially in front, equal to Lincoln, in my
- judgement: it is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_124">124</span> intirely vaulted with stone, and of a very pretty
- model of building, but much too high for its breadth, as all Gothic
- buildings were. I believe they got this ill taste from building upon
- the old foundations, the ancient churches being much narrower and lower
- than in the succeeding times: when greater riches flowed in upon them,
- they carried their walls and roofs to an unseemly height. The place
- where Thomas à Becket’s shrine stood, is sufficiently known by the mark
- of the devoted knees quite around it, which have left deep impressions
- in the hard coarse marble. The Black Prince has a noble monument of
- brass: that of Henry IV. is a good tomb, and there is a pretty chapel
- hard by, to say mass for him. There is an old picture of arch-bishop
- Becket’s martyrdom, as called; and upon the wall an old painting of the
- siege of Jerusalem, in our old habits. Here are several monuments of
- the bishops. The metropolitan chair is of grey marble, standing behind
- the high altar: the cloysters are pretty good, and a very large chapel
- near them, called Sermon-house, wainscotted with Irish oak. The reason
- of the ancient name of this British city seems intimated in this verse
- of Virgil,</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry" lang="la">
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0"><i>Divinosque lacus &amp; averna sonantia silvis.</i><span class="fright">Æn. iii.</span></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">The poor derivation of the commentators thereon ought to be referred to
- Tuscan original, to which our Celtic is a-kin.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Rutupiæ.</span></div>
-
- <div class="sidenote">TAB. XXXV. 2d Vol.</div>
-
- <p>Leaving Canterbury,<a id="FNanchor_113" href="#Footnote_113" class="fnanchor">[113]</a> I journeyed to find out <em>Rutupiæ</em>. At
- Wingham I saw a very large barrow, of Celtic make, by the road side,
- called the Mount: upon enquiry I found there were several more in
- the parish, and that a lane here is called Port-lane; doubtless the
- Roman road, for here the common road goes more southward. The Roman
- city and port without peradventure was the place now called Stonar,
- or <em>Stanar</em>, as they pronounce it, from the stony foundations I
- chuse to think; over-against Sandwich, or rather half a mile lower upon
- the river coming from Canterbury, and almost incompassed by it. This
- river at first discharged itself into the sea by Ebbesflete, north of
- the Roman city, till the sand, pouring so directly upon it, obliged
- the stream to slide under the cliff by Richborough castle, and so by
- Sandwich: then, coming in obliquely by the weight of its waters, it
- maintains its passage. I conceit the etymology of <em>Rhutupium</em>,
- about which the learned contend much, is to be sought for in this
- <em>Ebbesflete</em>; and that this water was originally called
- <em>Ube</em>, or <em>Tyvi</em>: <em>rhyd tyf</em> or <em>tyvi</em>, is the
- passage over it: the Saxons called it <em>Reptacester</em>, a contraction
- only from <em>Rhutupicester</em>: and so our <em>Ebbe</em> at present came
- from them; <em>Ruptimuth</em> anciently. Hence you see far into the isle
- of Thanet and Ramsgate cliff, named from the Romans, thrusting its
- chalky promontory into the sea. This was the chief port for the Roman
- navy.<a id="FNanchor_114" href="#Footnote_114" class="fnanchor">[114]</a> At present there is only a farm-house or two, standing on
- an elevation in the marshes: they informed me that here had been a
- great city, and that they can discover all the streets when the corn
- is on the ground; and those streets are nothing but pure gravel laid
- very deep: innumerable stones and foundations have been dug up, but now
- mostly evacuated; and no doubt Sandwich was built out of it. The river
- runs close by it, with difficulty preserving its current to the sea;
- but no doubt originally it was an open beach, or port: perhaps the city
- itself was an island. The old mouth of the river is now filled up by
- the astonishing quantity of small pebbles thrown into this bay by the
- roll of <span class="pagenum" id="Page_125">125</span>the ocean: you see here a hundred acres of this flat
- ground covered over with them six or seven foot deep, and looking blue
- like the water. I fancied the people that lived here, in like danger
- with those that travel the sandy deserts of Africa, or Arabia. Here
- are two elevations, where they say two churches stood: upon one, where
- an elder-tree grows, much rubble and stone is left, but no part of any
- building; nor is it easy to distinguish what it was originally.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>35·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <div><b>View of Portus Rutupiæ from Sandwich. <i>7. Oct. 1722.</i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_124.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div>
- <figcaption><i>South West view of</i> Richborough Castle.</figcaption>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_125_1">
- <div class="plateno"><i>97</i></div>
- <img src="images/i_125_1.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <figcaption class="small">Richborow <i>Castle of the Romans 7 Oct. 1722</i>. Auspiciis Doctissimi D. Tancred Robinson M. D. &amp;c.</figcaption>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>36·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <div><b><i>The Remains of the</i> Castrensian Amphitheater <i>at Richborough Castle. Oct. 7. 1724.</i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_125_2.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <p class="clear mt3"><span class="sidenote">TAB. XCVII.</span>Richborough castle, as now called, was the fort as it were to this
- city, and station of the garrison, which was to watch and defend the
- port and sea-coast hereabout; or rather one of those castles built upon
- the <i lang="la">littus Saxonicum</i>, in the time of Theodosius: it is a mile
- off Stanar and Sandwich, situate upon the highest elevation near hand,
- and being the only small part of a bold shore in all this bay: the
- river runs at the foot of it,</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza" lang="la">
- <div class="i0"><i>———— arvaque &amp; urbem</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Littore diductam angusto interluit æstu.</i><span class="fright"><span class="smcap">Virg.</span> Æn. iii.</span></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">It is a most noble remnant of Roman antiquity, where in later times
- of their empire the <em>Legio</em> II. <em>Aug.</em> was quartered: the
- walls on three sides are pretty intire, and in some places still about
- twenty-five or thirty foot high, without any ditch: the side next the
- sea being upon a kind of cliff, the top of the wall is but level with
- the ground: beside, at the east angle the wall descends to another
- slope just upon the river, which seems to have been in the nature of an
- outwork, or gradual ascent into the castle: the ground on the inside
- is pretty much raised. In the middle of the north-east side there is
- a square work jutting out from the wall, which seems to have been an
- oblique<a id="FNanchor_115" href="#Footnote_115" class="fnanchor">[115]</a> gate to enter at, for those that came from the water side;
- and it is not unlikely that gap on the north-west side was another
- gate: it was a square CV. paces one way, CL. the other; according
- to the Roman method of making camps, a third part longer than their
- breadth. There is a foundation within, which has caused many words
- among the Kentish antiquaries; seems to have been a <em>Pharos</em>,
- or lodging for the commanding officer, a <em>prætorium</em>: there are
- foundations of several apartments, the walls monstrously thick and
- strong. It is manifest to any one that seriously contemplates the ruins
- of the walls in divers places, that this castle was destroyed by great
- violence and industriously; I guess, by the Saxons immediately after
- the Romans left the island, when they could more boldly make descénts
- upon the coast: the reason why, is evident from the intent of these
- castles: upon the eastern corner, especially, great piles of wall lie
- one upon another like rocks: in other places cavities are hewn out of
- its thickness, that would make good lodging-rooms: the manner of the
- composition of the walls is seven courses of small hewn stone, which
- take up four Roman feet: then two courses of Roman brick, which are
- white, like the brick in the isle of Ely. I observe all the brick
- about Sandwich to be of the same colour, made of whitish clay. The
- walls are twelve foot thick: the inward body thereof is made of flint
- and excessive hard mortar. Sandwich bears directly south. Dr. Holland
- talks of a carved head over one of the gates; but I could find no such
- thing now. In the way thither, upon an eminence is the carcass of a
- castrensian <span class="sidenote smcap">Amphitheatre</span>amphitheatre made of turf; I suppose, for the exercise
- and diversion of the garrison: the soil of it is gravel and sand, and
- has been long ploughed over,<span class="sidenote">TAB. XXXVI. 2d Vol.</span> that we need not wonder it is so level.
- There are three Roman <em>tumuli</em> before Sandwich west <span class="pagenum" id="Page_126">126</span>gate; one a
- windmill stands on: it is not easy to assign which Contentus was buried
- under:</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza" lang="la">
- <div class="i0"><i>Contentum tellus quem Rutupina tegit.</i> <span class="smcap">Auson.</span></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p>South of Sandwich, as we go along upon the sea-shore, are six large and
- broad Celtic <em>tumuli</em>, equidistant: the second from the town has
- been dug away, to raise a little fort upon the road: they all stand in
- a line east and west.<a id="FNanchor_116" href="#Footnote_116" class="fnanchor">[116]</a> This flat coast is fenced against the ocean
- by the sand-downs, which in Lincolnshire we call <em>meals</em>: but
- within the memory of man, as they told me, the sea has commenced a new
- method of guarding against its own violence, by covering the shore, for
- a great depth and height, with the pebbles afore mentioned; which is an
- odd mutation in nature; and it is observable that these pebbles come
- from the south. I rode from Sandwich as far as Hithe, upon the brink
- of the shore or cliff, in sight of France all the way; and nothing
- could be more entertaining in this autumnal season, when the weather is
- generally clear, serene and calm. Much sea <em>tithymal</em> grows here,
- and a very pretty plant, <i lang="la">papaver cornutum flore luteo</i>, rock
- samphire feeding upon <em>petroleum</em>, a most excellent pickle, and
- many more.<a id="FNanchor_117" href="#Footnote_117" class="fnanchor">[117]</a> The murmur of the ocean has a noble solemnity in it, as
- Homer says, when latinised,</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza" lang="la">
- <div class="i0"><i>Eructante salo raucam dant littora vocem.</i></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">More copiously expressed in Virgil,</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza" lang="la">
- <div class="i0"><i>Et gemitum ingentem pelagi, pulsataque saxa,</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Audimus longe, fractasque ad littora voces.</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Exsultantque vada atque æstu miscentur arenæ.</i><span class="fright">Æn. iii.</span></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">which is an exact idea of this place. By listening attentively I
- observed this noise of the ocean is by fits, at short but equal
- intervals; which I believe gave occasion to that fancy of the ancients,
- that every tenth wave was the largest; of which Ovid has a distich.</p>
-
- <p>Sandown castle is composed of four lunettes of very thick arched
- work of stone, with many port-holes for great guns: in the middle
- is a great round tower, with a cistern at top; underneath an arched
- cavern, bomb-proof: a foss incompasses the whole, to which there is
- a passage over a draw-bridge. Deal castle and Walmer castle are of
- the same nature, all built by Harry VIII. to guard this naked level
- coast: moreover, lines are drawn along between castle and castle, and
- at proper intervals round bastions with a ditch and parapet of earth,
- where cannon may be planted, as in the infancy of fortification. These
- are what Camden calls <em>Rome’s works</em>, and fancies to be remnants
- of Cæsar’s ship-camp: the neighbours with as little truth affirm they
- were thrown up by Oliver Cromwell, for reduction of these <span class="pagenum" id="Page_127">127</span>castles:
- one is close by the north side of Deal, and two between Deal castle and
- Walmer castle. At Walmer castle the cliff begins for about half a mile
- southward with a gentle rise to a hill, whereon is a <em>tumulus</em>:
- then the shore is plain again in a valley till you come to Kings-wold,
- which is half a mile’s space. <span class="sidenote">TAB. XXXVII. 2nd Vol.</span>Between Walmer castle and Deal I take to
- be the spot where Cæsar landed in his first expedition, because it is
- the first place where the shore can be ascended north of Dover, and
- exactly answers his assigned distance of eight miles: probably in his
- second expedition, when he came with many more ships, and had a perfect
- knowledge of the country, he went a little farther in the downs,
- whereabouts now is Deal, a town lately sprung up from the mariners. As
- for his sea-camps, it is vain to expect a sight of them; they are many
- ages since absorpt by the ocean, which has so long been exercising its
- power, and wasting the land away. Even since Harry the VIIIth’s time it
- has carried off the sea-ward <em>esplanades</em> of the three castles,
- and one half of two of the three circular forts. Indeed, of late years,
- the providential ejectment of those pebbles has put a stop to it in
- some measure; and it is amazing to see how it by degrees fills up these
- fosses and trenches, and sometimes flies over the banks a good way up
- into the land, with a power well expressed by the poet,</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza" lang="la">
- <div class="i0"><i>Aut vaga cum Tethys Rutupinaque littora fervent.</i><span class="fright"><span class="smcap">Lucan.</span> vi.</span></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">But of this affair of Cæsar’s I reserve to myself another opportunity
- of speaking, when I shall expresly treat of his expedition hither. At
- Deal castle is a very good well, though close by the sea.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>37·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <img src="images/i_127_1.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>Toms Sculp.</i></div>
- <figcaption><i>A Prospect towards Deal from y<span style="margin-left: -0.1em;"><sup>e</sup></span> Barrow South of Walmer Castle.</i></figcaption>
- </figure>
-
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>38·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <img src="images/i_127_2.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>Toms Sculp.</i></div>
- <figcaption><i>The Appeareance of the Roman</i> DVBRIS</figcaption>
- </figure>
-
- <p>Now my journey lay intirely upon the edge of the cliffs, whose
- precipicious height, with the noble prospect at sea, and most awful
- roaring of the waves, filled the mind with a sense of Nature’s majesty.
- About St. Margaret’s on cliff, near the light-houses, I saw in two
- places a great number of little <em>tumuli</em>, of unequal bulk, close
- by one another; and the like I found frequently about Barham downs,
- and between Hardres<a id="FNanchor_118" href="#Footnote_118" class="fnanchor">[118]</a> and Chilham, and other places. I know not
- that such have ever been taken notice of: the people say they were
- burying-places of the Danes; probably digging into them might give us
- some satisfaction. I believe them Celtic, because I saw many sorts of
- them, and such as appear on Salisbury plain.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Dubris Portus.</span></div>
-
- <p>Dover is a most romantic situation: it is a great valley, and the only
- one about this coast where water is admitted inwards of the cliff, here
- very high; and a running brook discharges itself into the sea:<a id="FNanchor_119" href="#Footnote_119" class="fnanchor">[119]</a> the
- water formerly came a good way higher up, and made a large port; and
- they have found anchors above the town. <span class="sidenote">TAB. XXXVIII. 2nd Vol.</span>The Roman city of <em>Dubris</em>
- was to the south of the river: the Watling-street enters it at Bigin
- gate, coming very strait from Canterbury over Barham down, where it
- is very perfect:<a id="FNanchor_120" href="#Footnote_120" class="fnanchor">[120]</a> butting<span class="pagenum" id="Page_128">128</span> directly upon the great tower of the
- cathedral, it bears a little more northerly than north-west. This city
- was an oblong square, and some of the walls are left: the churches
- are of a very antique make: that of St. Martin is collegiate, founded
- by Wightred king of Kent; it is a venerable ruin: the east end seems
- to have terminated in three semi-circular works: it was built in
- form of a cross, as to its main body. Much remains of the priory,
- now a farm-house. The <em>maison dieu</em> over-against it is become a
- store-house: here the knights Hospitallers or Templars lodged, coming
- into, or going out of, the kingdom. The piers that form the haven, or
- large bason, are costly and great works: above is a fort with four
- bastions of modern date. The broad beach which lies at the mouth
- of this great valley, and was the harbour in Cæsar’s time, is very
- delightful: it is no little part of the diversion, in walking there,
- to observe the odd produce of the ocean thrown up under your feet, and
- the sea-plants that grow there; the<span class="sidenote">TAB. XXXIX. XL. 2d Vol.</span> <em>umbelli</em>, <em>star-fishes</em>,
- many curious fossils and shells; the <em>eringo</em>, <em>sea-lungs</em>,
- <em>sea-weed</em>, or <em>ood</em> as called, &amp;c. One long street here
- is named Snare-gate, from the most tremendous rocks of chalk hanging
- directly over the houses; as Cnarsborough in Yorkshire, says Mr.
- Camden, p. 715.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Dover Castle.</span></div>
-
- <p>The castle is the strongest place in the world, of old fortification;
- it takes up thirty acres of ground: it is an amazing <em>congeries</em>
- of walls, ditches, arches, embattlements, mounts, and all imaginable
- contrivances to render it impregnable after the old mode: but with
- highest regret I beheld this most noble and memorable fortress, once
- thought the key of Britain, and that has divers times had the honour to
- save the kingdom from conquest and slavery, now become a common prey
- to the people that belong to it: in the late wars with France they
- kept 1500 prisoners in the great castle; but within this twelvemonth
- they have carried away the timbers and floors, disabling it even for
- that use. Thus much I think out of gratitude is its due; let it stand
- a monument of antiquity, or sink slowly by its own ruin. The brass gun
- called Queen Elizabeth’s Pocket-pistol is a great curiosity, twenty-two
- foot long: it requires fifteen pound of powder, and carries a ball
- seven miles (as the gunner told me;) it is excellently well wrought. I
- saw two very old keys, and a brass horn, which seem to be the ensigns
- of authority belonging to the constable of the castle, or lord warden
- of the cinque ports. One part of the fortifications consists of a large
- circular work, in which stands the old church, said to have been built
- by Lucius, an ancient king of the Britons, and first christian. Bishop
- Stillingfleet thinks he is no romantic person, but reigned in Kent and
- Sussex: however that be, I believe this church is as ancient as the
- time assigned him. There is not much doubt to be made, that upon this
- hill was a <em>castrum</em> of the Romans, like that at Richborough, to
- guard this haven. It is somewhat surprizing that our Saxon ancestors
- should take great pains to demolish Roman works, though they wanted
- such in the same places, and were forced to build them again. I look
- upon it as an argument that they had no thoughts of conquering the
- island at first, and destroyed these bulwarks, that such might not
- hinder their depredations; but espying the nakedness of the land,
- thoroughly evacuated of its youth and men of arms by the Romans, they
- found a conquest practicable: then were they <span class="pagenum" id="Page_129">129</span>obliged to
- repair these castles. The church we are speaking of was built, in the
- first times of christianity, out of part of the Roman ruins, whence
- there are huge quantities of Roman bricks laid into the work: the
- arches are intirely turned with them; the corners and many parts, both
- within and without, are built up therewith; and the remainder is of
- stone originally cut by the Romans: it is in form of a cross, and has
- a square tower in the middle. I have represented the drawing of it in
- <span class="sidenote">TAB. XLVIII.</span><a href="#i_129_1">plate 48</a>. The stone windows of this church are of later date than the
- building; they have been put in long since: but the greatest curiosity
- here is the <span class="sidenote"><i>Roman.</i> <span class="smcap">Pharos.</span></span><em>Pharos</em>, or Roman watch-tower, standing at the west
- end of the church: notwithstanding it is so much disfigured by new
- daubing with mortar, casing and mending, I discovered its primary
- intention the first minute I saw it; and sent the three prints of
- it, which I here present the reader, to monsieur Montfaucon, at the
- instances of my most honoured lord, the archbishop of Canterbury. I was
- in hopes they would have been more useful to that celebrated author;
- for therein at least he might have found, that the building which he
- first took for a <em>Pharos</em>, and whereof he gives us four views, is
- only the tower of the church we were talking of. The description of
- this curious work, which I believe the most perfect of any left, in
- short is thus.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>39·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <img src="images/i_128_1.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>Toms sculp.</i></div>
- <figcaption>The Prospect of DOVER <i>9 Oct. 1724</i>.</figcaption>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>40·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <img src="images/i_128_2.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>Toms sculp.</i></div>
- <figcaption><i>The Appearance of Dover at the time of Cæsar’s Landing.</i></figcaption>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp68 mb4" id="i_129_1">
- <div class="plateno"><i>48</i></div>
- <div><b>ROMANO-SAXONIC.</b></div>
- <img src="images/i_129_1.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>I. Harris sculp.</i></div>
- <div class="small"><i>The Old Church &amp; Roman Pharos in Dover Castle. 8. Oct. 1722.</i></div>
- <div class="small"><i>S<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span> Martins Church near Canterbury where K. Ethelberts Queen us’d to goe to Christian Service.</i></div>
- <figcaption>Erudito viro et Amicissimo Johi Hardy de Nottingham.<br>
- <i class="small">Tabulam hanc vovet W. Stukley</i></figcaption>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp70 mb4" id="i_129_2">
- <div class="plateno"><i>47</i></div>
- <div><b><i>The</i> Ichnography &amp; Section of the <span class="smcap">Roman
- Pharos</span> <i>in</i> <span class="smcap">Dover</span> <i>Castle</i>.</b></div>
- <img src="images/i_129_2.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="small"><b>Tabulam Architectonicam Dno. Jacobo Thornhil-Equiti, ad Rem Pictoriam Servienti<br>
- Regio. D.D. <i>W<sup>s</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span> Stukeley.</i></b></div>
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>I.V<sup>der</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.6em;">.</span> Gucht Sculp.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt3">
- <figure class="illowp73 mb4" id="i_129_3">
- <div class="plateno"><i>46</i></div>
- <div><b><span class="smcap">The Roman Pharos in Dover Castle</span>&nbsp; &nbsp; 8 Oct. 1722.</b></div>
- <img src="images/i_129_3.jpg" alt="">
- <div><b><i>Quæ olim</i> Romanis <i>navigantibus facem præbuit</i><br>
- Pharon <i>in Castro Dubriensi</i> Rog<sup>o</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span> Gale Arm.<br>
- <i>consecratum posuit</i> W<sup>s</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span> Stukeley 1722.</b></div>
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <p class="clear"><span class="sidenote">TAB. XLVII.</span>In the <a href="#i_129_2">47th plate</a> we have shown the ground-plot upon which it is
- formed, and a section of the work; whence we may readily observe that
- the design is simple, but admirably contrived for its use and purpose:
- the base is octagonal without, within a square; but the sides of the
- square and octagon are equal, viz. fifteen Roman feet, which reduces
- the wall to the thickness of ten feet. In this manner it was carried
- up to the top, which was much higher than at present; but it retires
- inward continually from all sides, with much the same proportion as
- an Egyptian <em>obelus</em>. Upon four of these sides there are windows
- narrow, handsomely turned with a semi-circular arch of Roman brick six
- foot high, so that the outside of it appears as in our <span class="sidenote">TAB. XLVI.</span><a href="#i_129_3">46th plate</a>. The
- door to it is on the east side, about six foot wide, very well turned
- over head, with an arch made of a course of Roman brick and stone
- alternately, fourteen foot high. All the stones of this work are of
- a narrow scantling; and the manner of the composure, throughout, is
- perfectly the same with that lately described at Richborough castle:
- there are first two courses of this brick, which is level with the
- bottom of the windows; then seven courses of hewn stone, which mount up
- to the top of the windows; then two courses of brick, seven of stone
- alternately, to the top; every window by this means reaching to a stage
- or story. There are five of these stages left: the windows are visible
- enough to a discerning eye, though some be stopt up, others covered
- over, others have modern church-like windows of stone put in. I suppose
- the inside was intirely filled up with a stair-case: the height of what
- is left is forty foot; I believe there was twenty foot more originally;
- and the whole number of windows on a side was eight. This building
- was made use of as a steeple, and had a pleasant ring of bells in it,
- which Sir George Rook procured to be carried away to Portsmouth. Since
- then the office of the ordnance, under pretext of savingness, have
- taken away the lead that covered it, and left this rare piece of art
- and masonry to struggle with the sea, air and weather. Mr. Degg gave
- me a coin of Dioclesian, found here. The Erpinghams arms are patched
- up against one side of the <em>Pharos</em>, being two bars and a canton;
- so that I suppose it was repaired in Henry the Fifth’s time, lord
- Erpingham then warden of Dover castle. In the Roman castle here the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_130">130</span>
- Tungrican soldiers had their station. I have heard there is another
- such <em>Pharos</em> at St. Andrew’s in Scotland.<a id="FNanchor_121" href="#Footnote_121" class="fnanchor">[121]</a></p>
-
- <p>On the other high cliff opposite to this, beyond the town, has been
- another <em>Pharos</em>: some part of the bottom part of it is still
- left, called The Devil’s Drop, from the strength of the mortar: others
- call it Bredonstone. Here the new constable of the castle is sworn.
- If we consider the ancient state of Dover, we must imagine that the
- little river ran directly into the sea, and left a harbour close to the
- walls of the town; but in process of time, as the sea threw up that
- vast beach which lies between the town and it, the river was forced by
- an oblique passage to creep along the shore under the southern cliff,
- and there vent itself where now is the harbour. This is what Nature
- practises in the microcosm in innumerable instances, as the passage
- of the gall and pancreatic juice into the intestines, in the duct of
- the urine from the ureters into the bladder, of the chyle into the
- torrent of the blood, insinuating themselves for some space between
- the membranes. And this caution may be of service in forming harbours;
- as in that costly work of the French king’s before Dunkirk, where two
- banks or piers projected for half a mile through the sands directly,
- which ought rather to have gone downwards a little towards the fall of
- the tide. The cliffs here are of solid chalk to the very bottom, full
- of the blackest flints; and those at Calais seem perfectly like them;
- and no doubt a long vein of chalk is continued from one to the other
- under the sea, and perhaps through many countries: but that these two
- places were ever contiguous, or joined by an isthmus, is chimerical.</p>
-
- <p>Though the mariners have much mathematics on board, and in all their
- tackle and machinery, yet here I had occasion of observing a gross
- error, that has not been thought on, in the shape of their oars; where
- the extremity of that fan-like part, which opposes the water in rowing,
- is broadest. Now this is quite contrary to Nature’s method, who is the
- best geometrician in like cases: in the shape of a single feather,
- or in the wings of birds, the extremity is always pointed, and the
- broadest part is nearest the joint where the power lies, analogous to
- the <em>fulcrum</em> of leavers; therefore is drawn off to a narrower
- scantling, as the part recedes from it, and the effect of the moving
- force: thus it is even in the wings of butterflies, and all other
- insects, as well as birds; and so in the water-beetles that row with
- oars. Though the broad part resists the water more as farther distant
- from the <em>fulcrum</em>, yet it requires more proportionable strength;
- and in my judgment, therefore, oars ought to be made quite the contrary
- way, and drawn off into a point, the broadest part nearest the hand;
- and I doubt not but equal strength will then out-row the other,
- <i lang="la">cæteris paribus</i>.<a id="FNanchor_122" href="#Footnote_122" class="fnanchor">[122]</a></p>
-
- <p>Beyond Dover southward the cliff is exceedingly high to Folkstone.
- In the road two great Roman barrows, which will be eaten away in a
- few years by the sea. Here this larger track of cliff ends, as to the
- ocean, and slaunts off westward towards Wye in a long ledge very steep
- all the way to the west. The whole county of Kent consists of three
- or four of these parcels, lying parallel, and running nearly north
- and south: they rise gently from the east as a reclining plain, and
- then end suddenly on the western side with a quick descent: at bottom
- begins another such plain, and it ends in like manner after it has
- gone its proper distance, to be alike succeeded, as we said before.
- Beyond this we are upon, southward is <span class="pagenum" id="Page_131">131</span>a lesser ledge of high ground
- sandy and rocky, but good land, especially in the valleys, and full
- of wood. This is terminated by Romney marsh, such another country as
- our Lincolnshire Holland. To the right of us is Eleham, seated in a
- pleasant concavity: there has been a religious house. Upon one end of
- our upper chalk-hills, near Folkstone, is a camp called Castle hill.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_130">
- <div class="plateno"><i>98</i></div>
- <img src="images/i_130.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="small col35"><b><i>Stukeley d, &amp; Nobilissimo Comiti<br>
- Winchilsea d. d</i>.</b></div>
- <div class="col65"><b>View of Folkston —— <span class="smcap">Lapis titvli</span>.</b></div>
- </figure>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Lapis Tituli.</span></div>
-
- <p>Now descending, Folkstone<a id="FNanchor_123" href="#Footnote_123" class="fnanchor">[123]</a> offers itself, still standing on a
- cliff, but not so high as the former, and of a rocky composure,
- the other being chalk: it was anciently called <em>Flostane</em>, a
- lesser rock, or cliff of stone; so that it probably was the <span class="sidenote">TAB. XCVIII.</span><i lang="la">lapis
- tituli</i> of the Romans. Here is a copious spring runs through the
- town. Near the church, upon the sea side, is a square plain, like that
- I observed at Burgh in Lincolnshire, and was of the same use. I saw two
- pieces of old wall hanging over the terrible cliff, seemingly of Roman
- work: here are some old guns, one of iron of a very odd cast, no doubt
- as old as Henry the Eighth’s time. Many Roman coins have been found
- here. A nunnery was built by Eanswide, a religious daughter of Eadbald
- king of Kent.</p>
-
- <p>I passed by Sandgate castle, another of those built by Henry VIII.
- in a little valley where the shore is plain: then we enter upon the
- beach. Here are many springs which come down from the higher ground,
- and sink immediately into this beach, rendering it a little boggy: this
- I thought very odd. You ride through a wood of sea-poppy, which is a
- fine variety in nature, casting all the numerous seeds into a long
- pod, instead of the common globular head: the leaves look hoary, like
- sea-ragwort, and are finely crisped; the flowers of a most delicate
- yellow, taken notice of by the poet,</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza" lang="la">
- <div class="i0"><i>Ore floridulo nitens</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Alba parthenice velut</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Luteumve papaver.</i> <span class="smcap fright">Catull.</span></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p>Hythe<span class="sidenote smcap">Hythe.</span> stands on the edge of this lesser ridge, but the marsh has
- intercepted it from the sea. They talk much of their charnel-house full
- of human bones, said to have been the massacred Danes; but I thought it
- not worth going to see, nor believed their report of it. They say this
- has been a great city, and reached as far as West Hythe, where is an
- old ruinous chapel: they mean undoubtedly the city of <em>Lemanis</em>.
- Here were two hospitals, St. Bartholomew’s, and St. Leonard’s.</p>
-
- <p>I visited Saltwood castle, in hopes to find somewhat Roman, as is
- reported: it is a very strong seat of the archbishop’s: the outer wall
- has towers and battlements, and a deep ditch: within, and on one side,
- stands the main body of the place: two great and high towers at the
- gate of this, over which are the founder’s arms, archbishop Courtney,
- in two escutcheons; the first impaled with those of the see; the other
- plain, a label over three plates. This inner work has a stronger and
- higher wall, with a broad embattled parapet at top: within is a court,
- but the lodgings are all demolished: the floor of the ruinous chapel is
- strongly vaulted: in the middle of the court is a large square well,
- which is the only thing I saw that looked like Roman. It is said that
- hereabouts anchors are dug up; which, if true, is not owing to the
- sea’s coming so high, as the vulgar think, for that is impossible; but
- to an iron forge of the Romans, conveniently placed, where so much wood
- grows, so near the sea, and so many ports. They say too that Roman
- coins are found at Newington, not far off here.</p>
-
- <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_132">132</span></p>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Lemanis</span> Portus.</div>
-
- <p>A little way further, at the end of the Stane-street,<a id="FNanchor_124" href="#Footnote_124" class="fnanchor">[124]</a> the Roman
- road from Canterbury; and at a proper distance from thence is the port
- of <em>Lemanis</em>.<span class="sidenote">TAB. XCIX.</span> I am surprized that some Kentish antiquaries should,
- by pretended corrections of the Itinerary, send it farther off to the
- southern coasts. As soon as I came to Limne church, looking from the
- brow of the hill to the subjacent marshes, I descried the tattered
- Roman walls, situate on this southern decline, almost at the bottom.
- One would imagine the name came from the <em>Stone-street</em>; for such
- it literally signifies, <i lang="la">via lapidea</i>: this is a solid rock of
- stone laid out in a strait line between here and Canterbury. Thus in
- Yorkshire another Roman road is called <em>Leming-lane</em>, from its
- stony composure. <em>Lhe</em> signifies a way in British; <em>maen</em>,
- a stone. Its present appellation of <em>Studfal</em> castle gives
- occasion to some uncouth etymologies: without any difficulty I think
- it derived from <em>stæd-weall</em>, the sea-shore, in Saxon; so that
- it signifies no more than <i lang="la">castrum littoreum</i>. This fine remnant
- of Roman work, and which was the garrison of the Turnacensian band,
- hangs as it were upon the side of the hill; for it is pretty steep
- in descent: the walls include about twelve acres of ground, in form
- somewhat squarish, without any ditch: a pretty brook, arising from
- the rock west of the church, runs for some space on the east side of
- the wall; then passes through it, and so along its lowermost edge by
- the farm-house at bottom. The composition of the wall is similar to
- that of Richborough; but instead of hewn stone and regular courses, as
- there, the interval between the three layers of Roman brick is made of
- rag-stone: the brick too is of the same whitish kind, but remarkably
- thin. I suppose the clay shrank much in burning. This interval of stone
- is four feet of Roman standard: the walls are twelve foot thick, and
- have some round holes at equal spaces, that run quite through, as we
- observed at <em>Sorbiodunum</em> and <em>Verolanium</em> perhaps to let
- the air in for drying the wall, being of so great a thickness. Here
- are several of the circular, or rather elliptic buttments, as thick as
- the wall, like those at the castle of <em>Garionenum</em>, near Yarmouth
- in Norfolk, in <span class="sidenote">TAB. LVIII.</span><a href="#i_132_2">plate 58</a>. which my worthy and learned friend Mr. Hare
- gave me from his own mensuration. It is a piece of masonry, I must own,
- unaccountable to me: they are like round towers or bastions, but solid;
- and some scarce join to the wall at the sides, but go quite through
- to the inside. The circuit of this wall is manifest enough on three
- sides, but that southward is levelled to the ground: every where else,
- where not standing, it lies sideways, flat, close by, in prodigious
- parcels; or where standing, cracked through the whole solid thickness,
- as if Time was in a merry humour, and ruined it in sport: but I believe
- it is the effect of design and much labour, as I said of Richborough:
- probably the Saxons or Danes thus dismantled it, to render it useless
- against their incursions. Where this wall is standing, it is ten foot
- high or more, made with excellent cement: on the eastern side is such
- another gate, formed by the return of the wall, as at the place last
- mentioned. Geo. Hunt, an old man, living in the farm-house, told me
- <span class="pagenum" id="Page_133">133</span>he has found coins here: he says, once the sea-bank broke, and
- his house with all the adjacent marshes was floated: for the level of
- the ocean is higher than this place; but it has fenced itself out by
- raising the ground continually near the shore, as it does in other
- like marshes. Whether the sea reached this lower wall, even in the
- time of the Romans, I cannot determine; for I do not believe this was
- the very port, but the castle belonging to it: that, I rather think,
- was somewhat more eastward, about West Hithe; and there, the town
- that belonged to it: for they find old foundations frequently under
- the side of the hill, laid in strong terrace mortar. The rev. Mr.
- Bagnal, minister of the place, informs me, that the field, of about
- sixteen acres of ground, adjoining to the church-yard of Limne, is to
- this day called the Northern town: nor do they know that it ever had
- any other name; which intimates that the Roman town was thereabouts,
- lying upon the slope of the hill, as the castle does, and to the east
- of it. This port is now called Ship-way, where the <em>limenarcha</em>,
- or lord warden of the cinque ports, was anciently sworn; where their
- courts were kept, and all the pleas relating to these ports: since the
- decay thereof, that ceremony is transferred to Dover. This Ship-way too
- denominates the <em>lathe</em>, or division of the country. Leland says,
- the people of Limne had an horn and mace, remaining ensigns of their
- authority.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_132_1">
- <div class="plateno"><i>99</i></div>
- <div><b><i>Dn<sup>o</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span> Hans Sloan Barr<sup>tto</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.6em;">.</span></i>&nbsp; <span class="allsmcap">M.D.</span> <i>Tabulam d.d. W
- Stukeley.</i></b></div>
- <div class="small"><b>LEMANIS Portus <i>9 Oct. 1722</i>.</b></div>
- <img src="images/i_132_1.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley Delin.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp68 mb4" id="i_132_2">
- <div class="plateno"><i>58</i></div>
- <div><b>GARIONENVM</b></div>
- <img src="images/i_132_2.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="small">The Manner of the Wall</div>
- <div><b>Henrico Hare Arm<sup>o</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span> GARIONENVM sua manu dimensum consecrat</b><br>
- <i class="small">W. Stukeley.</i></div>
- <div><a href="#t_132">See transcription</a></div>
- </figure>
-
- <p>Thus have we conducted our journey, for the space of 500 miles, all
- upon Roman roads, to these three famous ports on the eastern shore,
- where commonly the great Roman emperors and generals landed from the
- continent; and in which we have run over such notices as occurred to us
- in thirty-five Roman stations, many camps, and other things of highest
- antiquity. The season of the year for expeditions being far spent, it
- is time to release your lordship’s patience, and retire into harbour,
- concluding with the great Roman wit, in his poetical voyage,</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza" lang="la">
- <div class="i0"><i>Lemanis longæ finis chartæque, viæque.</i></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <div class="right">10 Octob. 1722.</div>
-
- <div class="chapter">
- <span class="pagenum" id="Page_134">134</span>
- <hr class="full thick">
- <hr class="full mt0">
- <h2 class="nobreak" id="ITER_DUMNONIENSE"><span class="gesperrt1">ITER DUMNONIENSE</span>.&nbsp; &nbsp; VI.</h2>
- </div>
-
- <hr class="full">
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry" lang="la">
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0"><i>Ipse locis capitur patriis &amp; singula lætus</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Exquiritque, auditque virûm monumenta priorum.</i> <span class="smcap fright">Virg.</span></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
- <hr class="full">
-
- <div class="center bold mt3 lh1"><i>To my Lord</i><span class="gesperrt1"> PEMBROKE</span>.</div>
-
- <p class="drop-cap">I Have sometimes in travelling been apt, within my own mind, to make a
- comparison between the excellence of the study of Philosophy, and that
- commonly called Antiquity, that is, ancient history. The beauties and
- the advantage of natural inquiries I cannot but be highly sensible of;
- yet I must needs give the preference to the latter, as it more nearly
- concerns the rational part of the creation, for whom the whole was
- made: it is a comment upon the wonderful volumes of divine wisdom, and
- the conduct of providence in the management of its supreme workmanship.
- God has given us indeed a large manuscript of his power, and other
- adorable attributes, in his wide-extended products, the furniture of
- the world; but in man, a more correct epitome of himself; a delegated
- immaterial particle of his spirituality, a self-moving principle of
- free agency, from the very fountain of all existence. As he is the
- great master-wheel and <i lang="la">primum movens</i>; so we are the subordinate
- executors of his mighty purposes, by his direction and superintendence
- carrying on the regular government and unseen operations thereof.
- Whoever declaims against this, ought to be looked upon as one of a
- poor, narrow way of thinking, and who does not deserve so much as that
- noble faculty of the soul, reminiscence or memory, which is the same
- to a single man, as ancient history is to the whole community: such a
- one no more claims the name of a scholar, than he that knows but the
- letters of the Alphabet, or whose study consists only in Gazettes. It
- is the knowledge of antiquity that can give us a maturity in judgement,
- either in persons or things; and how unfit such a one is, that is
- destitute of it, in the executing the great offices of life, I need not
- inculcate.</p>
-
- <p>But nothing I can say in favour of this subject, can be so great a
- panegyric to it, as your lordship’s illustrious name prefixed. The
- glorious ardour for this kind of learning, that kindled in your
- younger years, and that through a long cultivation of it has produced
- a boundless extent of knowledge, with the deepest penetration, the
- strongest judgement, the fire of the soul, and all sublimest qualities
- which the world admires in your lordship; bears down all opposition to
- the study of antiquities, wherein you preside most worthily; wherein no
- one dares to be rival, or hopes to be equal. We see the fruits of it in
- the best-chosen library of ancient authors, in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_135">135</span> the best collection of
- most ancient coins, statues, busto’s, and learned marbles, which the
- world can show. You, my lord, by treading in the steps of the great
- Arundel, have brought old arts, Greece and Rome, nay Apollo and all his
- Muses, to Great Britain: Wilton is become tramontane Italy.</p>
-
- <p>Every part of learning is your lordship’s province, and sure of your
- protection. But I have a particular happiness in laying before you
- the following account of this summer’s journey, because the greatest
- part of it was by your own direction, and as excursions I made whilst
- at your lordship’s most delightful seat at Wilton. I shall begin with
- what I observed in my tour about it, and proceed to my more western
- perambulation through a country pregnant of antiquities, and the
- greatest curiosities in the world.</p>
-
- <p>The <em>Belgæ</em>, the ancient inhabitants of this country, were a brave
- and warlike people, when on their original continent; and we have no
- reason to think, after transplantation on the British soil, they abated
- aught of their courage and valour, natural to its inhabitants. These
- were one of those powerful nations, whose conquest gave opportunity
- to the emperor Vespasian highly to signalize his conduct when he
- first made a figure in arms. Hence it is that we find so many camps
- hereabouts, from the sea side to the midland parts; many of which were
- made by him, and others by his undaunted opposers. The road from Wilton
- to Shaftesbury, called the Ten-mile Course, is a fine ridge of downs,
- continued upon the southern bank of the river Nader, with a sweet
- prospect to the right and left, all the way, over the towns and the
- country on both sides: a traveller is highly indebted to your lordship
- for adding to his pleasure and advantage, in reviving the Roman method
- of placing a numbered stone at every mile, and the living index of a
- tree to make it more observable; which ought to be recommended as a
- laudable pattern to others: thus C. Gracchus planted a stone at every
- mile, with the distance inscribed, says Plutarch; and thus Rutilius,
- Itinerar. II.</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza" lang="la">
- <div class="i0"><i>Intervalla viæ fessis præstare videtur,</i></div>
- <div class="i3"><i>Qui notat inscriptus millia crebra lapis.</i></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p>Between N<sup>o</sup> 5. and 6. is a pretty large camp, called<span class="sidenote smcap">Chiselbury.</span> Chiselbury, upon
- the northern brow of the hill: it is single ditched and of a roundish
- form: before the chief entrance is an half-moon, with two apertures
- for greater security: there is a ditch indeed goes from it downward
- to the valley on both sides, but not to be regarded. This I imagine
- relates not to the camp; for I observed the like across the same road
- in many places between little declivities, and seem to be boundaries
- and sheep-walks made since, and belonging to particular parishes. I
- fancy this name imparted from some shepherd’s cot, anciently standing
- hereabouts, in Saxon <em>Ccsol</em>. It seems to be a Roman camp, but
- of later date. At the end of this course, when you come to the great
- chalk-hill looking towards Shaftesbury, are three or four Celtic
- barrows, one long and large, pointing east and west: in this hill is a
- quarry of stone, very full of sea-shells. Not far off, in the parish
- of Tisbury, near Warder castle, is a great intrenchment in a wood,
- which was probably a <span class="sidenote">Br. <i>oppidum</i>.</span>British <em>oppidum</em>, and near the river before
- mentioned.</p>
-
- <p>Returning, we see upon the highest eminence that overlooks Wilton,
- and the fertile valley at the union of the Nader and Willy, the
- famous King-barrow, as vulgarly called: it is a round <span class="sidenote">Carvilii <i>tumulus</i>.</span><em>tumulus</em>,
- of a most ancient<span class="pagenum" id="Page_136">136</span> form, flat at top, and without any ditch. Your
- lordship rightly judges it in situation to be one of the highest
- barrows in England, being, by exact observation from the water-level
- and calculation, at least four hundred foot above the surface of the
- ocean. This, questionless, is a Celtic <em>tumulus</em>: and the very
- name, inherent through long revolutions of time, indicates it to be
- the grave of a king of this country of the <em>Belgæ</em>, and that
- Wilton was his royal residence, which for goodness of air, of water
- and soil, joined with the most delightful downs all around it, must
- highly magnify his judgement in choice of a place second to none for
- all the conveniences and delicacies of life. If we reflect a little
- upon the matter, it appears a supposition far from improbability,
- that this is the very monument of Carvilius mentioned by Cæsar, who,
- joining with the other kings along the country on the sea-side from
- hence to Kent, attacked his sea-camp on the Rutupian shore: and this
- was to make a diversion to the great Roman general, pressing hard upon
- Cassibelan; for, as the late learned and sagacious Mr. Baxter observes
- in his Glossary, where should <em>Carvilius</em> live, but among the
- <em>Carvilii</em>? as <em>Segonax</em>, one of his confederates, among the
- <em>Segontiaci</em>; that is, <em>Segontium</em>, or <em>Caersegont</em>,
- as the Britons call it; which is now Silchester. And it seems to
- have been the fashion of that time for kings to be denominated from
- the people or place they governed; as <em>Cassibelan</em> was in name
- and fact king of the <em>Cassii</em>; and many other instances I might
- bring of like nature. Where then should <em>Carvilius</em> live, but
- at <em>Carvilium</em>, now Wilton; or where be buried, but in the most
- conspicuous place near his palace? and no other barrow competitor to
- leave any doubt or scruple. It is natural to suppose that the very spot
- where his residence was, is the same where king Edgar’s queen spent
- the latter part of her life in a religious house she built near your
- lordship’s seat, being a hard dry soil, gravelly, and incompassed with
- two fine rivers, which in early times added much to the security of
- the place, and much sought for by the Britons. We took notice, when
- with particular pleasure we visited his <em>tumulus</em>, and paid our
- respects to the illustrious <em>manes</em> of the royal defunct, that,
- among other views of great distance, we could see Long-barrow beyond
- Stonehenge, and all the long ridge of Martinsal hill, St. Ann’s hill,
- and Runwayhill beyond that; upon which goes the great Wansdike, which I
- take to be the northern boundary of the Belgic kingdom. I question not
- but one purpose of this interment was to be in sight of the holy work,
- or temple, of Stonehenge. Here then may we conclude rest the ashes of
- Carvilius, made immortal by Caæsar for bravely defending his country;
- now resting in the possessions of a successor, master of both their
- great qualities; who, when wielding the British trident, in a fleet
- infinitely superior to Cæsar’s, could assert a more universal empire.
- In you, my lord, the memory of Carvilius flourishes again, in your
- eminent love for your country’s honour, and in your care for preserving
- his monument, and adorning it with fresh verdure; by planting four
- trees round its edge,<a id="FNanchor_125" href="#Footnote_125" class="fnanchor">[125]</a> and introducing it as a <em>terminus</em>, in
- one of the visto’s, to the admirable equestrian statue of M. Aurelius,
- in the middle of the principal star of your park. Thus, according to
- ancient usage, was the <em>tumulus</em> of Diomedes planted with the
- <em>platanus</em> brought from Asia for that purpose; as Pliny informs us
- in book XII. cap. <span class="allsmcap">i</span>.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_137_1">
- <div class="plateno"><i>41</i></div>
- <div><b>Chlori <i>Imp. Castrum vulgo</i> Clorendon&nbsp; &nbsp; <i>Aug. 25. 1723</i>.</b></div>
- <img src="images/i_137_1.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley del:</i></div>
- <figcaption class="small">A. <i>Icening Street.</i>&nbsp; &nbsp; B. <i>Old Sarum.</i>&nbsp; &nbsp; C. <i>New Sarum.</i>&nbsp; &nbsp; D.
- <i>Clarendon Park.</i>&nbsp; &nbsp; E. <i>Ford.</i></figcaption>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_137_2">
- <div class="plateno"><i>67</i></div>
- <div><b><i>View from</i> Harnham hill&nbsp; &nbsp; <i>Aug 26. 1723.</i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_137_2.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <p class="clear"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_137">137</span></p>
-
- <p>From hence riding along the hare-warren and end of the park, we are
- entertained with the landscape of no less than five rivers, four
- retaining the old British names: the villages on each side of them are
- so thick, that they seem to join and form long cities in woods. About
- the union of these rivers are three cities and three cathedrals within
- a triangle, whose sides are less than three miles; Wilton, Old and New
- Sarum. The <em>Nadre</em> signifies a snake or adder, metaphorically
- drawn from its winding current: it rises by the end of the Ten-mile
- course above described, and passes by a pleasant village belonging
- to your lordship, Chilmark, famous for its quarries; of a very good
- stone, white, and that rises in any dimensions: there is now a single
- stone, lying over the mouth of the quarry like an architrave, full
- sixty foot long, twelve foot thick, and, as the workmen have assured
- me upon examination, perfectly without flaw: sometimes here are found
- great petrified oyster-shells. The Willy rises about Warminster,
- taking in a little brook, the Dyver, passing under ground, runs by
- <span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Yarnbury.</span> Ro. <i>camp</i>.</span>Yarnbury, a vast Roman camp, where some think is Vespasian’s name; a
- great semi-circular work at the entrance: several Roman coins have been
- found here. Not far off is a ditch called Chiltern, which seems to be
- some division of the hundreds. There is another camp on the other side
- the Willy: then it runs by Grovely, a great wood of your lordship’s:
- it admits another stream coming on the west side of Stonehenge from
- Orcheston, remarkable for a long kind of grass, which without good
- proof I should scruple relating, for it is commonly twenty-five foot
- in length, much coveted by cattle; by Mr. Ray called <i lang="la">gramen caninum
- supinum longissimum</i>: he says they use to fatten hogs with it. This
- Willy, that gives name to Wilton, passes chiefly on the north side
- of the town, makes the canal before the front of the house, and then
- joins the Nadre, coming on the south side of the town and through the
- gardens, at the end of the avenue. The Avon arises from under the great
- ridge of hills that divides Wiltshire into north and south, crowned
- with the Wansditch: it passes southward through innumerable villages
- to <span class="sidenote smcap">Amsbury.</span>Ambsbury, the <i lang="la">pagus Ambri</i> famous for a monastery built by
- one Ambrus, which the monks and fabulous writers have wrested into
- <em>Ambrosbury</em>; then for a celebrated nunnery of noble-women, great
- numbers of whom, against the institution of Nature and Providence,
- were here veiled: it is now the seat of my lord Charlton, built by
- Inigo Jones, and deservedly to be admired: some new works are added
- to it under the direction of my lord Burlington, possessor of his
- spirit, and a noble collection of his designs. The famous old city of
- <em>Sorbiodunum</em> may be said to stand upon this river: it meets with
- the other two just before it passes through Salisbury, and beyond it
- receives the Bourn, which has dropped its proper name: but I guess it
- to have been <em>Colin</em> or <em>Colinity</em>, the same as <em>Clun</em>;
- for at its fountain-head is <em>Colinburn</em>: all these rivers are
- called <em>burns</em>, <em>Willyburn</em>, <em>Adderburn</em>, &amp;c. below
- Salisbury enters another, I suppose called <em>Ebbesburn</em>. From
- Harnham hill we have a view of <span class="sidenote">TAB. LXVII.</span>both Sarums: the old city, with its
- high-crested triple fortifications, threatens all the circumjacent
- country: the new justly boasts of its lofty spire, as wonderful for the
- slenderness of its foundation, as its great height, being 450 foot,
- making one of the visto’s to the front of Wilton-house. To the east
- is <span class="sidenote smcap">Chloridunum.</span>Clarendon, which your lordship first observed, from old writings,
- ought to be called <em>Clorendun</em>, from the famous Roman camp<span class="sidenote">TAB. XLI.</span> half
- a mile off the park near the Roman road: this was made or repaired by
- Constantius Chlorus, father of Constantine the Great; it was he that
- slew Allectus, after he had basely murdered the valiant Carausius.
- Constantius lived at the neighbouring <em>Sorbiodunum</em>: he was of
- British<span class="pagenum" id="Page_138">138</span> extract, the husband of Helena, a famous British princess.
- This camp therefore, properly written, is <em>Chloridunum</em>, being a
- beautiful fortification of a round form upon a dry chalk hill: within
- is a circular ditch, having two entrances answering to the entrances of
- the camp, and leaving a large space between it and the <em>vallum</em>. I
- suppose this ditch was a lesser camp before, inlarged by Chlorus, for
- keeping his legions as in a summer-camp before the city: this they did
- by carrying away all the earth of the old <em>vallum</em> to the new;
- for it is evident the present rampart is of much larger quantity than
- could be taken out of the subjacent ditch. <span class="sidenote">TAB. IX.</span>Chlorendon park is a sweet
- and beautiful place: here king John built him a palace, where several
- Parliaments have been held: part of the building is still left, though
- they have been pulling it down many years: it is chiefly of flint, and
- was a large place upon the side of a hill, but no way fortified. This
- palace of king John answers directly to the front visto of Wilton house
- over the length of the great canal, and is called the King’s Manor:
- they say here is a subterraneous passage to the Queen’s Manor. Between
- the camp and the park runs a Roman road, which has not been taken
- notice of, from <em>Sorbiodunum</em> to Winchester full east and west.</p>
-
- <p>As we go from Wilton to Stonehenge, between Grovely wood and Woodford
- runs a ditch across the plain, with a high rampart southward: the
- ditch is broad, and goes east and west. I take it to be one of the
- boundaries of the <em>Belgæ</em>, which I call the third: the reason will
- hereafter appear. On the east side of the Avon, by Great Dornford, is
- a very large camp covering the whole top of a hill, of no determinate
- figure, as humouring the height it stands on: it is made intirely
- without any ditch, the earth being heaped up very steep in the nature
- of a parapet, when dug away level at the bottom. <span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Aukbury.</span> Br. <i>oppidum</i>.</span>I doubt not but
- this was a camp of the Britons, and perhaps an <em>oppidum</em>, where
- they retired at night from the pasturage upon the river, with their
- cattle: within it are many little banks, carried strait and meeting one
- another at right angles, square, oblong parallels and some oblique,
- as the meres and divisions between ploughed lands; yet it seems
- never to have been ploughed: and there is likewise a small squarish
- work intrenched, no bigger than a large tent: these to me seem the
- distinctions and divisions for the several quarters and lodgements of
- the people within; for I have, upon the downs in Dorsetshire, often
- remarked the like, of too small a compass to be ploughed fields. This
- camp has an aspect very old; the prominent part of the rampart in
- many places quite consumed by time, though the steep remains perfect;
- one being the natural earth, the other factitious: it certainly has
- so much of the manner of Vespasian’s camp, as induces one to think
- it an imitation. I know not whether we ought to derive the name of
- it from the British <em>Og</em>, signifying the hurdles and pens they
- fence their cattle in with, which perhaps stood upon those meres, or
- little banks, to distinguish every man’s property. Vespasian’s camp
- is within sight of it, a little higher up the river, and on the other
- side: it is a famous camp, properly and by universal consent attributed
- to him, called the <span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Walls.</span> Vespasian’s <i>camp</i>.</span>Walls; well chose, being a high piece of ground
- at a flexure of the river, which closes in an end and a side of it:
- the other side has a broad and very deep valley along it, and at the
- other end is the entrance: the whole hangs over the town of Amsbury:
- the manner of this camp too consists mostly in a rampire, but much
- more operose than that last mentioned; the form oblong: the road to
- the town goes quite through it: it is high in the middle, and has a
- barrow inclosed, but partly level; this I suppose originally Celtic, on
- account of its vicinity to Stonehenge, therefore<span class="pagenum" id="Page_139">139</span> elder than the
- camp. The east side of Vespasian’s camp is sufficiently guarded by the
- precipice of the river. Further northwards, in the road from Ambsbury
- to Marlborough, is the remain of another round camp, extremely old,
- and almost obliterated: this is between Collinburn and Burbich, upon
- a rising ground, seemingly British: and on the west side of the river
- Avon, over-against it, is another, called too <span class="sidenote smcap">Cheselbury.</span>Cheselbury, and said to
- have a fair <em>prætorium</em> in it. These camps so contiguous, with a
- river between, seem still remains of Vespasian’s conquests; and that he
- got the country by inches.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb3" id="i_138">
- <div class="plateno"><i>9</i></div>
- <img src="images/i_138.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <figcaption>Ruins of King Johns Palace at Clarendon&nbsp; &nbsp; Aug. 3. 1723.</figcaption>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb3" id="i_139">
- <div class="plateno"><i>44</i></div>
- <div><b>Prospect of Martinsal hill, a Roman Camp&nbsp; &nbsp; 6 July 1723.</b></div>
- <img src="images/i_139a.jpg" alt="">
- <div><b>A Prospect in Somersetshire&nbsp; &nbsp; 19. Aug. 1723.</b></div>
- <img src="images/i_139b.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley del:</i></div>
- <figcaption class="small">a. <i>Mountagu hill.</i>&nbsp; &nbsp; b. <i>a Camp.</i>&nbsp; &nbsp; c. <i>the Foss Road.</i></figcaption>
- </figure>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Martinshal Hill.</span> Ro. <i>camp</i>.</div>
-
- <p>North of these is Martinsal hill, a vast stationary Roman camp, upon
- a high hill steep to the east, which is seldom observable. I measured
- it quite round, in company with lord Hertford and lord Winchelsea:
- it is conspicuous at a great distance, and within sight of all the
- camps in the country. I take it to have<span class="sidenote">TAB. XLIV.</span> been made when the Romans
- were thoroughly possessors of the kingdom, and one of their chief
- fortresses, whence they might give or receive signals all around, in
- case of distress, by fire or smoke. On two sides the precipice is
- dreadfully steep. Lord Winchelsea has a brass <em>Alexander Severus</em>
- found here; on the reverse, <em>Jupiter fulminans</em>, with PM. TR.
- P. COS. On the west side, upon the top of the hill, without the camp
- is a round pit full of good spring water, always to the brim but
- never overflowing in the driest summers; which at those seasons is of
- greatest service to the country round, and thousands of cattle are
- driven every day from a considerable distance to drink there. I am
- told there is another such upon the top of Chute hill, south east from
- hence, very high, and no water within some miles of it. So provident
- has Nature been in subliming, by some unknown powers, the liquid
- element to these barren heights, that every part of her works should
- not be without its graces and use. The prospect from Martinsal must
- needs be exceeding fine. Salisbury steeple, twenty miles off, bears
- south-west and by west: the port of this camp is north-east.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Martinalia.</div>
-
- <p>I take the name of this hill to come from the merriments among the
- northern people, called <em>Martinalia</em>, or drinking healths to the
- memory of St. Martin, practised by our Saxon and Danish ancestors.
- I doubt not but upon St. Martin’s day, or Martinmass, all the young
- people in the neighbourhood assembled here,<a id="FNanchor_126" href="#Footnote_126" class="fnanchor">[126]</a> as they do now upon
- the adjacent St. Ann’s hill upon St. Ann’s day. The true word is
- <em>Martinsheil</em>, <em>heyl</em> signifying health; and the Germans call
- a bowl, or drinking-vessel, <em>schale</em>: likewise <em>hali</em> in the
- Saxon signifies holy; whence our <em>hallow</em>; and the <em>Washeyl</em>
- bowl at Christmass, full of spiced ale, which they carry about, singing
- of carols in the streets. Monsieur Keysler speaks of these matters
- largely in his <cite>Antiquitates Septentrionales</cite>, p. 358. and that
- the German gilds, or societies, were obliged to keep drinking festivals
- to St. Mary, St. Martin, St. Nicholas, &amp;c. p. 487. he says, at a
- village in <em>tractu Albino</em>, the married women upon St. Martin’s
- day pay 4 d. to the questor: and the Spring upon this hill still
- further favoured their ceremonies. So beneficial a bason in heathen
- times merited divine honours; and the people, not willing to part with
- a holy-day, blended their rites into christian. The English took the
- opportunity of <span class="pagenum" id="Page_140">140</span>the day after this great festival of St. Martin, much
- observed by the Danes, to commit that universal massacre upon them
- drunken, which totally extirpated them. This was anno 1002, upon the
- 13th of November, the feast day of St. Brittius, says Chron. Joann.
- Alb. Petriburg. on <em>Hock</em> Tuesday, which Spelman says had its
- denomination thence.</p>
-
- <p>In the fields about Chute are bones dug up very plentifully, in a
- place called Blood-field especially: they likewise found there a stone
- coffin with a skeleton inclosed, and an arrow or spear-head of brass,
- as described to me: there was a horse found buried about three yards
- from the body. Whether this was Roman or British, I cannot affirm: I am
- inclinable to think the latter: but it seems that a battle was fought
- here between them.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Barbury.</span> Ro. <i>camp</i>.</div>
-
- <p>Full north from hence, upon the Barbury hills, the next ridge
- overlooking the north part of Wiltshire, is another camp, called
- Barbury, in the parish of Ogburn St. George. The noble lords late
- mentioned assisted in measuring it: it is double ditched quite round,
- the inner very deep, and rampart high, of a circular form; an entrance
- upon the east, and another on the west diameter, which is 2000 Roman
- foot long: at the west the inmost rampire retires inwards a little,
- to make a port with jambs: eastward the outer ditch turns round with
- a semi-circular sweep, leaving two passages through it obliquely to
- the main entrance, like our modern half-moons: both these methods I
- have often seen practised.<a id="FNanchor_127" href="#Footnote_127" class="fnanchor">[127]</a> This mighty camp stands on one of the
- western eminences of this ridge, running east and west; very steep
- to the north and west, separating the high ground or downs from the
- fertile country below, which belonged to the <em>Dobuni</em>, and lies
- under the eye like a map, as far as the Welsh hills beyond the Severn;
- whose lovely prospect would naturally animate the Britons in its
- defence, as the Romans in its conquest: it is indeed a fine scene of
- woods, towns, pastures, rivers and valleys. A little beyond, upon the
- same ridge, is <span class="sidenote smcap">Badbury.</span>Badbury camp; and the whole is well planted with stout
- camps and frequent, the eye-sore and terror of the plain: hence you see
- Martinsal camp and many more.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote">Ro. <i>road to</i> <span class="smcap">Bath. via Badonica.</span></div>
-
- <p>Having recited these matters as preliminary, I shall begin my journey
- from Marlborough, the Roman <em>Cunetio</em>. I forbear speaking of the
- infinite number of Celtic monuments I have found in this country,
- designing them for a particular treatise, to be honoured with your
- lordship’s illustrious name; and from Marlborough pursue the Roman
- road, which we have before traced from Newbury hither, and lately
- discovered its whole progress toward the Bath, which for distinction
- sake we may call <em>Via Badonica</em>: its course is east and west:
- it goes hence all along the north side of the Kennet river, between
- it and the high grounds; and is the present road, but highly wants a
- Roman hand to repair it. When we have rode about a mile, over-against
- Clatford, at a flexure of the river, we meet with several very great
- stones, about a dozen in number, which probably was a Celtic temple,
- and stood in a circle: this form in a great measure they still
- preserve. I guess the Romans buried them in the ground under their
- road, because directly in its passage: the materials throughout have
- since been worn away, or sunk into the ground, being in this place
- meadow, and so has restored their huge bulk to day-light. Hence
- it proceeds directly up to the famous Overton hill, where I first
- discovered its ridge, when surveying the beautiful circle of stones
- there, belonging to the majestic temple of the old Britons<span class="pagenum" id="Page_141">141</span> at Abury:
- this ridge is a little to the north of the present road, somewhat
- higher up the hill; it points directly east and west, one end to
- Marlborough, the other to Silbury hill: and this shows a defect in
- our maps, which place Abury too much to the south: it is perfect for
- some space over the down; but upon descending the hill westward, they
- have ploughed it up, and found several Roman coins near it, some of
- which I have by me.<a id="FNanchor_128" href="#Footnote_128" class="fnanchor">[128]</a> At the bottom, by the corner of the hedge,
- it meets again the common road near the White-hart ale-house; and so
- they go together above West Kennet to Silbury-hill: this was the post
- and coach road to the Bath, till, for want of reparation, they were
- forced to find a new one, more northward upon the downs, and farther
- about, through the town of Abury: when on the south side of Silbury
- hill, it goes very strait and full west through the corn-fields on
- the south of Bekhamton, where it is sufficiently known by the name of
- the French way; for what reason I cannot imagine. They have of late
- endeavoured to exclude travellers going upon it, by inclosing it at
- both ends with ditches; but the badness of the lower road has defeated
- their purpose, and made people still assert the public right. Beyond
- Bekhamton it again enters the downs, and marches up the hill in a very
- plain ridge, and beautiful to behold; the pits and cavities whence the
- earth was taken, on both sides, being conspicuous all the way: besides,
- the Romans have defaced a druid’s barrow, and another Celtic one near,
- which saved them some labour: a proof they were there before the Roman
- road; but this is not a proper place to enlarge upon it. When it has
- gained the summit of the hill, it leaves <span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Oldbury.</span> Ro. <i>camp</i>.</span>Oldbury castle a little to the
- north: this is a great and strong <span class="sidenote">TAB. XLII.</span>Roman camp on the north-west point
- of the hill, overlooking Calne: the precipice on those two sides is
- altogether inaccessible, falling down in narrow cavities or ribs, as
- it were the great roots of a tree, with an odd and tremendous aspect;
- and that way there was need but of very slender work for its security:
- but on the other sides it is double ditched, having but one entrance
- to the east, and that fortified with a return of the outer ditch and
- inner rampire, very artificially: there is a ditch likewise across the
- middle, as if it had been inlarged with an additional intake westward:
- it is in the main of a squarish form, and has a very fine prospect.
- On the northern limit, in the highest part, seems to have been a
- <em>prætorium</em>. On this hill, which is wholly a chalky down, with a
- most delicate turf (and softer to walk upon than a Turky carpet) about
- a foot or two under the superficial earth, they dig great quantities
- of flints to mend the highways withal: one would imagine they had
- been spewed out of the hardening chalk at the creation, as extraneous
- bodies, though of greater specific gravity than itself.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_141">
- <div class="plateno"><i>42</i></div>
- <div><b>Oldbury Castle&nbsp; &nbsp; <i>11 Iuly. 1723</i>.</b></div>
- <img src="images/i_141.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <p class="clear">Return we to the Roman road, which proceeds across another valley, and
- so towards Runway hill, the highest in all these parts. This was famous
- for a battle in the late civil wars; and they oft find the bullets,
- when digging for the pebbles as afore mentioned; and below the hill
- they plough up the bones of the slain: but much more is Runway eminent
- for two mighty works of antiquity, this Roman way, and Wansdike. The
- most lovely prospect here will tempt even a hasty traveller to cast
- his eyes about him, and see all the country far beyond the Bath,
- and so proportionably quite around. I am not doubtful that it takes
- its name from the Roman way, which here has an unusual and the most
- curious appearance of any I have seen. I took pleasure in examining
- the particularity of it more than once; and it is a masterstroke of
- skill to conduct it down the north side of this long and steep hill
- <span class="pagenum" id="Page_142">142</span>(as I have so often remarked to be the condition of northern heights)
- to render it easy, or even practicable. When from the top of this hill
- you look towards Marlborough, which is full east, you may discern
- that the road curves a little northward, not discernible but in the
- whole: the reason is to be attributed to the river Kennet, thrusting
- it out somewhat that way; otherwise the true line should have lain a
- little more to the south of Silbury. To the right you see <span class="sidenote smcap">Wansdike.</span>Wansdike,
- creeping all along from south of Marlborough (about two mile) upon the
- northern edge of the great ridge of hills, parting North and South
- Wiltshire, till it descends St. Ann’s hill; and makes several right
- angles to humour the edges of the other hills: the <em>vallum</em> is
- always on the south side, and the higher ground behind it: then it
- mounts up to the highest <em>apex</em> of Runway hill. But the method
- of the Roman road is this: it goes along the northern side of this
- hill, preserving itself upon the level, being cut like a terrace-walk,
- with a parapet before it next the precipice; and that winding in and
- out, as the curvatures of the hill require: it passes just by Calston
- lime-kiln, and is defaced by it; for the workmen make no scruple to
- dig through it for their materials, and this practice has been so old
- as to denominate the town lying beneath. Soon after, it meets with the
- Wansdike, descending the hill just by the gibbet: here it enters full
- into it, and very dexterously makes use of it, all along to the bottom,
- on a very convenient shelf, or spurn of the hill: at the place of union
- is a flexure of the Wansdike, so that the Roman road coincides with it
- directly; and in order to raise it from a ditch into a road, the Roman
- workmen have thrown in most part of the rampire, still preserving it as
- a terrace to prevent the danger, and the terror of the descent on one side.</p>
-
- <p>I shall mention, upon another occasion, some other observations
- I have made long since, that overthrow the notion of those that
- imagine Wansdike was cast up by the Saxons, as a limit of the West
- Saxon and Mercian kingdoms, or that its name is derived from their
- god <em>Woden</em>: but here we have a most incontestable proof that
- it was in being before the Roman times; and its very name shows
- it, signifying, in the old British language, the division dike,
- <em>guaban</em>, <em>distinctio</em>, <em>separatio</em>: it is indeed the
- work of the <em>Belgæ</em>, their fourth and last boundary. These two,
- the Roman road and Wansdike, go together after this manner, till they
- enter the inclosures a little north of Hedington town below Runway
- hill. At Calston is a most famous spring, or cataract of water,
- coming out of the chalk-hill, and much talked of. Wansdike was made
- by the people of the south, to cover their country, as the mode of it
- sufficiently testifies, and, as we said before, was the most northern
- bounds of the Belgic kingdom. When from the top of these hills you view
- the Roman road, towards the west you see it butts full upon the Bath,
- or that great chink between Lansdown and the banks of the river Avon
- going to Bristol.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Verlucio.</div>
-
- <div class="sidenote">TAB. LXVIII.</div>
-
- <p>I had no sooner traced out this road, but I found a fair opportunity
- presented of setting the antiquaries right, as to part of the XIVth
- journey of Antoninus his Itinerary, in which they have hitherto
- been much perplexed. I found no manner of difficulty in settling
- <em>Verlucio</em> at Hedington; <em>Hedda’s</em> town, <em>Heddan</em>
- genitivo. This town is but small at present, lying at the bottom of
- this great hill in a rich marly country. The inhabitants are not
- surprised when you inquire for antiquities; they assert it to have been
- a very old and great city: infinite quantities of antiquities are found
- here: handfuls of coins brought home every time they plough, (madam
- Whitlock has many) and the streets and foundations of houses found for
- a great length,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_143">143</span> sufficiently evince it.<a id="FNanchor_129" href="#Footnote_129" class="fnanchor">[129]</a> Reuben Horsal, clerk
- of Abury, told me, he had seen a gallon of Roman coin taken up at a
- time in Hedington field, in an urn covered with a stone. I suppose
- its original name was <em>Verolucio</em>, as <em>Verolanium</em>, &amp;c. and
- then it signifies, in the old Celtic, the white habitation, <em>vrô
- llug</em>; <em>llug</em> denoting splendid, as <em>Lugdunum</em>, a white
- hill; the same as the Greek Λευκος <em>albus</em>: if <em>lug</em> imports
- pure water, then it must relate to Calston spring, breaking forth like
- a cascade: if we take the word <em>gloyii</em>, <em>limpidus</em>, it is
- all one. It must be noted, that both the XIIIth and XIVth journeys of
- Antoninus his Itinerary are abominably corrupted, and want a healing
- hand as much as any throughout: and being both one journey by a
- different route, I shall undertake thus to restore them.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_142">
- <div class="plateno"><i>68</i></div>
- <div><b><i>Prospect of Hedington.&nbsp; &nbsp; <span class="small">18 July 1723.</span></i></b></div>
- <div class="small smcap"><b>Verlvcio</b></div>
- <img src="images/i_142.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <div class="center clear"><span class="gesperrt2">ITER </span>XIII.<br>
- <i>Ab Isca Callevam</i>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; <i>M. P.</i> CXXXIX. <i>sic</i></div>
-
- <table class="mt2">
- <tbody>
- <tr>
- <td><i>Isca leg.</i> II. <i>Aug.</i></td>
- <td style="padding-left: 2.4em;">Caerleon</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td rowspan="9">&nbsp;</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><i>Burrium</i></td>
- <td style="padding-left: 2.4em;">Usk</td>
- <td class="tdc"><div>IX</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><i>Blescium</i></td>
- <td style="padding-left: 2.4em;">Old town</td>
- <td class="tdc"><div>XI</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><i>Ariconium</i></td>
- <td style="padding-left: 2.4em;">Kenchester</td>
- <td class="tdc"><div>XI</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><i>Glevum colonia</i></td>
- <td style="padding-left: 2.4em;">Glocester</td>
- <td class="tdc"><div>XXXV</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><i>Durocorinium</i></td>
- <td style="padding-left: 2.4em;">Cirencester</td>
- <td class="tdc"><div>XIV</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td style="padding-left: 1.6em;">Cunetio</td>
- <td><i>Marlborough</i></td>
- <td>XIX</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><i>Spinas</i></td>
- <td style="padding-left: 2.4em;">Newberry</td>
- <td class="tdc"><div>XV</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td style="padding-left: 1.6em;">Vindoma</td>
- <td><i>Silchester</i></td>
- <td>X</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><i>Caleva Atrebatum</i></td>
- <td style="padding-left: 2.4em;">Farnham</td>
- <td class="tdc"><div>XV.</div></td>
- <td><i>toto</i> CXXXIX.</td>
- </tr>
- </tbody>
- </table>
-
- <p>In the copies the sum total is set down CIX. miles; when, if you cast
- up the particulars, it amounts to no more than XC. so that no less than
- nineteen in the original is lost: this shows plainly that some station
- is dropped out, and geography itself indispensably demonstrates it. Mr.
- Fulk was sensible of some deficiency, by his adding <em>Gobannium</em>,
- though thereby he hit not the white: in truth, both stations and
- numbers are wanting; for it is notorious that the distance between
- <em>Ariconium</em> and <em>Glevum</em>, places sufficiently known, and
- about which we have no contest, is much too little, when set down only
- XV. mile; and XX. must unavoidably be added. Though I am as cautious
- as any man living in laying hand upon these venerable remains, and
- altering them; yet, where nature and reason absolutely require it,
- I have not the least fear in adding two stations, which are quite
- slipped out from the original: between Cirencester and Newberry
- it is evident <em>Cunetio</em> must be interposed, or the distance
- heightened to twice as much: the truth is, one station is intermitted,
- <em>Cunetio</em>: and the like between <em>Spinas</em> and <em>Calleva</em>;
- for <em>Vindoma</em>, or Silchester, must be added, beyond which is our
- <em>Calleva</em>, or Farnham; all in a strait line, and upon a Roman road
- from <em>Aricomum</em>. Cast up the whole account, it comes to CXXXIX.
- instead of CIX. then all the difficulties that have hitherto obscured
- this journey, vanish: they that compare William Harrison’s first copy
- with the others of this journey, will not be surprised at the effects
- of negligent transcribers, when, out of seven names in other books, he
- has missed two; and so frequently in other journeys. In the next place
- I offer this as the true reading of the fourteenth journey of Antoninus.</p>
-
- <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_144">144</span></p>
-
- <div class="center"><span class="gesperrt2">ITER </span>XIIII.<br>
- <i>Alio itinere ab Isca Callevam</i>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; <i>M. P.</i> CIII. <i>sic</i></div>
-
- <table class="mt2">
- <tbody>
- <tr>
- <td><i>Isca leg.</i> II. <i>Aug.</i></td>
- <td style="padding-left: 2.4em;">Caerleon</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td rowspan="9">&nbsp;</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><i>Venta silurum</i></td>
- <td style="padding-left: 2.4em;">Caerguent</td>
- <td class="tdc"><div>IX</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><i>Trajectus</i></td>
- <td style="padding-left: 2.4em;">Old-bury</td>
- <td class="tdc"><div>IX</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><i>Abone</i></td>
- <td style="padding-left: 2.4em;">Henbury</td>
- <td class="tdc"><div>IX</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><i>Aquæ solis</i></td>
- <td style="padding-left: 2.4em;">Bath</td>
- <td class="tdc"><div>VI</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><i>Verlucio</i></td>
- <td style="padding-left: 2.4em;">Hedington</td>
- <td class="tdc"><div>XX</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><i>Cunetio</i></td>
- <td style="padding-left: 2.4em;">Malboro</td>
- <td class="tdc"><div>X</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><i>Spinas</i></td>
- <td style="padding-left: 2.4em;">Newberry</td>
- <td class="tdc"><div>XV</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td style="padding-left: 1.6em;">Vindoma</td>
- <td><i>Silchester</i></td>
- <td>X.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><i>Caleva Atrebatum</i></td>
- <td style="padding-left: 2.4em;">Farnham</td>
- <td class="tdc"><div>XV</div></td>
- <td><i>toto</i> CIII.</td>
- </tr>
- </tbody>
- </table>
-
- <p class="noindent">This journey leads us to <em>Calleva</em> another way. Mr. Gale has
- observed <em>Trajectus</em> and <em>Abone</em> transposed. The sum total
- here likewise is invariably in all copies CIII. when the particulars
- amount but to ninety-eight; whence we likewise infer a station is
- dropped out, as before, viz. Silchester, with the number X. annexed.
- Now it happens that number was not lost, though the station was; but
- was erroneously placed to Marlborough, being XX. instead of X. seeing
- the distance between the Bath and Marlborough is notoriously too much.
- Setting then X. mile to <em>Cunetio</em>, its real distance from our
- <em>Verlucio</em>, Hedington; it remains further to correct the number
- annexed to <em>Verlucio</em>, XX. for XV. the letter X being easily
- corrupted into an V. then we answer the distances on all hands, having
- a Roman road accompanying us, and complete the sum total set at top
- precisely CIII. and restore the whole to its ancient purity. When we
- reflect a little, that, take the matter how we will any other way, the
- difficulties are unsurmountable, I am thoroughly satisfied in these
- corrections.</p>
-
- <p>Much rusty old iron is dug up at the quarries by Brunham, probably of
- the Romans: it is a mile off Hedington.</p>
-
- <p>Upon the hedge of the hill which overlooks Hedington, as it bends a
- little southward, is another pretty little Roman camp, in an angle of
- the hill, of a square form, and as if not finished, or made for but
- a small time of abode upon an expedition; for neither <em>vallum</em>
- nor ditch of any great strength: it is situate on a very convenient
- promontory, or rather <em>peninsula</em> of high ground, the steepness
- whereof is a guard to three sides of it; the other has the slender
- <em>vallum</em> made chiefly of the surface of the earth thrown up a
- little. From the edge of these hills is an indefinite prospect over the
- country of the <em>Dobuni</em>, the <em>Belgæ</em>, and <em>Durotriges</em>:
- the descent to it, as being on the west side of the hill, is very
- steep. I think this place is called Bagdon hill.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Punctuobice.</div>
-
- <div class="sidenote">TAB. LXIX.</div>
-
- <p>Under it, to the left, is the Devises: this I take to be the
- <em>Punctuobice</em> of Ravennas, which he mentions by parcels thus:
- <em>Leucomagus</em>, Bedwin, (<em>Cimetzone</em> for) <em>Cunetione</em>
- in the ablative case, Marlborough; <em>Punctuobice</em>, the Devises:
- then he begins a new period of cities in Wales, <em>Venta Silurum</em>,
- &amp;c. I suppose here is a remnant of the former part of the word
- <em>Punctuobice</em> in Poulsholt, a little village hard by; Potern
- another, Potern-wood, and the name of the hundred Potern, taken, in
- the first times of their division, from such a corrupt appellation
- of this place: the last syllable <em>bice</em> subsists in the present
- name Devises, vulgarly <em>vies</em>. This town is excellently situated,
- about two miles from the bottom of the hills, which keep <span class="pagenum" id="Page_145">145</span>off the
- eastern winds, and in a rich soil.<a id="FNanchor_130" href="#Footnote_130" class="fnanchor">[130]</a> Under the hill at Runway is an
- excellent spring, which the inhabitants have not yet found means to
- convey thither, though it runs but a little way off the town, where
- they want water. It is a very large old town, consisting chiefly of
- two long parallel streets; the houses for the most part of timber, but
- of a very good model: they value themselves for one of the best weekly
- markets in England, and for being tenants to the king. It was inclosed
- by the Romans with a <em>vallum</em> and ditch, which I presently found
- out: they have made a road of the ditch in most parts round the town;
- but in several places both that and the <em>vallum</em> are visible
- enough, and it took in the castle: this castle was Roman originally,
- finely chosen upon a natural fortification, but in after-times made in
- a manner impregnable by Roger a bishop of Salisbury; though now it is
- ignobly mangled, and every day destroyed by people that care not to
- leave a wall standing, though for a fence to their garden. Here are two
- churches; the choir of St. Mary’s, of a very old model; the steeple,
- choir, and both wings of St. John’s, the same, to which parcels have
- since been tacked all round, and new wide windows put in with pointed
- arches, instead of the ancient narrow semi-circular ones. Just out of
- town is a pretty plain, called the Green, with another handsome church
- and steeple, suburbs to the old town. Here William Cadby, a gardener,
- dug up his collection of gods, which he carried about for a show:
- they were found in a garden, in a cavity inclosed with Roman brick:
- the <em>Venus</em> is of an excellent design; and the Vestal Virgin, as
- they call it, a fragment of Corinthian brass; it is of very curious
- drapery: <em>Vulcan</em> is as lame as if made at a forge: the rest equal
- in designing with the <em>lares</em> of the <em>Ostiaques</em>, and not
- at all mended in the plate published by Dr. Musgrave: he had several
- coins found thereabouts, and a brass Roman key which my lord Winchelsea
- bought. Roman antiquities are found here every day. My lord Winchelsea
- has one brass <em>Probus</em>; on the reverse, <span class="smcap">Victoria Germ.</span>
- with a trophy: and a great fund of such antiquities is to be met with
- all around the country. At Calne incredible numbers of Roman coin dug
- up; so at Studley, in the way to Bath, once a seat of the Saxon kings:
- I have seen and bought some of these: my lord Winchelsea has many found
- there.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mt4" id="i_144">
- <div class="plateno"><i>69</i></div>
- <div><b><span class="smcap">Pvnctvobice.</span></b><br>
- <i class="small">July 17. 1723.</i></div>
- <img src="images/i_144.jpg" alt="">
- </figure>
-
- <p>From hence towards Trubridge is Steeple-Aston, upon the bottom of the
- downs of Salisbury plain: it is a most excellent church and tower of
- stone, and had a famous spire of lead upon it, but twice thrown down by
- thunder and tempest, which absolutely discouraged the inhabitants from
- setting it up again.</p>
-
- <p>Return we to the Roman Bath road, which we left at Hedington; whence
- it goes much as the common road to Bath, and all along upon the south
- division of Chipenham hundred: I could discern its bank now and then
- upon the road, though much worn away and defaced in defect of necessary
- repairs: it passes the Avon at Lacock, where has been a great religious
- house, so by a chapel south of Haselbury: then it descends a hill
- for two miles together, till it meets, over-against Bathford, the
- Foss-way, which comes in a strait line hither through Cirencester,
- from <em>Benonis</em> or High-cross in Warwickshire, where I left it
- last year: then our road goes round the crook of the river by Walcot
- to the Bath. This turn it is that swells the distance between Bath
- and <em>Verlucio</em> to XX. Roman miles, as we before corrected it.
- The Wansdike runs still not far off this road, but a little <span class="pagenum" id="Page_146">146</span>north of
- it through Spy park; so by Ditchbridge, which has its name from it;
- then to the Shire stones, at the division between Gloucestershire,
- Wilts, and Somerset. As to the nature of the soil, when we have left
- the chalky downs at Hedington, it is intirely sand to the river Avon,
- whence the name of Sandy lanes: from thence to the Bath it is rocky.
- There is a vast descent from the Downs quite to Bath, and every great
- ridge is very steep westward.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Aquæ Solis.</span></div>
-
- <p>The Bath is a place so celebrated, and so well known, that I need say
- but little upon it; nor can much be expected from the small time I
- rested here:<span class="sidenote">TAB. LXX. LXXI.</span> its history and antiquities have been copiously handled
- by several gentlemen of our own faculty. It is indeed a spot of ground
- which we Britons may esteem as a particular boon of Nature: it lies
- in a great valley surrounded with an amphitheatrical view of hills;
- and its situation on the west side of the island does not a little
- contribute to its pleasures; for such is ever less subject to violent
- and enormous alterations of the air by winds and tempest, heat and
- cold: but the Romans were prudently induced to make a station here, by
- the admirable hot springs, so wonderful in themselves, and so justly
- regarded. The walls round the city are for the most part intire, and
- perhaps the old Roman work, except the upper part, which seems repaired
- with the ruins of Roman buildings; for the lewis holes are still left
- in many of the stones, and, to the shame of the repairers, many Roman
- inscriptions: some sawn across, to fit the size of the place, are
- still to be seen, some with the letters towards the city, others on
- the outside: most of those mentioned in Mr. Camden and other authors
- are still left; but the legend more obscure. The level of the city
- is risen to the top of the first walls, through the negligence of
- the magistracy, in this and all other great towns, who suffer idle
- servants to throw all manner of dirt and ashes into the streets: these
- walls inclose but a small compass, of a pentagonal form: four gates
- on four sides, and a postern on the other: from the south-west angle
- has been an additional wall and ditch carried out to the river; by
- which short work the approach of an enemy on two sides is cut off,
- unless they pass the river. The small compass of the city has made
- the inhabitants croud up the streets to an unseemly and inconvenient
- narrowness: it is handsomely built, mostly of new stone, which is
- very white and good; a disgrace to the architects they have there.
- The cathedral is a beautiful pile, though small; the roof of stone
- well wrought; much imagery in front, but of a sorry taste. Here they
- suppose (with probability) stood the Roman temple of Minerva, patroness
- of the Baths.<a id="FNanchor_131" href="#Footnote_131" class="fnanchor">[131]</a> Before it was a handsome square <em>area</em>, but
- lately deformed with houses encroaching: on the south side are the
- justly-renowned hot springs, collected into a square <em>area</em> called
- the King’s Bath. The corporation has lately erected a pretty handsome
- building before it, called the Drinking-room, for the company to meet
- in that drink the waters drawn hither by a marble pump from the bottom
- of the springs, where it is near boiling hot. This water is admirably
- grateful to the stomach, striking the roof of the mouth with a fine
- sulphureous and steely <em>gas</em>, like that of the German Spa or
- Pyrmont: though you drink off a large pint glass, yet it is so far
- from creating a heaviness, or <em>nausea</em>, that you find yourself
- brisker immediately, by its agreeable sensation on the membranes of the
- stomach: at first it operates <span class="pagenum" id="Page_147">147</span>by stool, and especially urine: it
- is of most sovereign virtue to strengthen the bowels, to restore their
- lost tone through intemperance or inactivity, and renews the vital
- fire by its adventitious heat and congenial principles. Hither let the
- hypochondriac student repair, and drink at the Muses’ spring: no doubt
- the advantages obtained here in abdominal obstructions must be very
- great. The King’s Bath is an oblong square; the walls full of niches,
- perhaps the Roman work: there are twelve on the north side, eight on
- the east and west; about four larger arches on the south: at every
- corner are the steps to descend into it, and a parapet or balustrade
- with a walk round it: in the middle is set an aukward timber-work, like
- a cross, adorned with crutches, the trophies of its wonderful cures:
- around that emerge the boiling springs very plentifully: upon the south
- wall is the fanciful image of king Bladud, with a silly account of his
- finding out these springs, more reasonably attributed to the Romans:
- they no doubt separated them first from common springs, and fenced them
- in with an eternal wall. The people have a notion, and probable enough,
- of subterraneal canals of their making, to carry off the other waters,
- lest they should mix and spoil the heat of these. It is remarkable
- that at the cleansing of the springs, when they set down a new pump,
- they constantly find great quantities of hazle-nuts, as in many other
- places among subterraneous timber. These I doubt not to be the remains
- of the famous and universal deluge, which the Hebrew historian tells
- us was in autumn, Providence by that means securing the revival of the
- vegetable world. In this bath the people stand up to the chin, men and
- women, and stew, as we may properly call it; for the most part, in the
- way of gallantry, and as at a collation. I should judge the method used
- at Buxton preferable, where the sexes go in separately and privately,
- where they have liberty to swim about and stir the limbs, and exercise
- the lungs; whence the whole body will better receive the full force and
- benefit of the warmth: and this will more effectually put the humours
- in motion, that should be exterminated at the opened pores: this
- exercise of the solids sets the glands to work, and every secretion
- is promoted. Many are the diseases and calamities which here find a
- happy period, when judiciously applied, which, as a traveller, I need
- not discourse upon. This brings innumerable people to the salutiferous
- streams; especially in the summer time, which likewise seems an error
- owing to custom and fashion; for I doubt not they are equally, if
- not more beneficial, both internally and externally, in winter than
- summer. The carrying the water to distant places to drink, seems only a
- splendid fallacy.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_146_1">
- <div class="plateno"><i>70</i></div>
- <div><b><span class="smcap">Aqvæ Solis</span></b><br>
- <i>Iuly 1723</i></div>
- <img src="images/i_146_1.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>Parker Sculp<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span></i></div>
- <div><a href="#t_146">See transcription</a></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb3" id="i_146_2">
- <div class="plateno"><i>71</i></div>
- <div><b>Aquæ Solis Iuly 21. 1723. <i>From the top of the Southern hill.</i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_146_2.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div>
- <figcaption class="small">Cl. Richardo Mead M.D. <i>tab. d.d. W<sup>s</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.4em;">.</span> Stukeley</i>.</figcaption>
- </figure>
-
- <p>I observe the whole country hereabouts is a rock of good lime-stone,
- which is the <em>minera</em> of the water’s heat and virtue: but how that
- comes to be calcined; by what refined chymistry of Nature sulphur and
- steel are mixed with it; by what means it acquires and conserves with
- so much constancy this equable and mighty <em>focus</em>, together with
- the reason of fountains in general; I profess, in my sentiments, is one
- of the great <em>arcana</em> in philosophy hitherto inscrutable.</p>
-
- <p>Behind the southern wall of the King’s Bath is a lesser square, called
- the Queen’s Bath, with a tabernacle of four pillars in the midst: this
- is of more temperate warmth, as deriving its water at second-hand from
- the other. There are likewise pumps and pumping-rooms, for pouring hot
- streams on any part of the body; which in many cases is very useful,
- to dissolve sizy concretions about the joints and the like, and
- recovers the natural elasticity in the relaxed fibres of the solids.
- The <em>area</em> before this bath and front of the cathedral, is in
- the centre of the <em>pentagon</em>, upon which the city is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_148">148</span> formed.
- Why the Romans made it of this unusual figure, I cannot tell: nothing
- appears from the manner of the ground and situation; but I observe
- the same of Aix in France. One would be apt to suspect they had a
- regard to the sacred symbol and mystical character of medicine, which
- in ancient times was thought of no inconsiderable virtue: this is a
- pentagonal figure, formed from a triple triangle, called by the name
- of <em>Hygeia</em>, because to be resolved into the Greek letters that
- compose the word. The Pythagoreans used it among their disciples as a
- mystical symbol, denoting health; and the cabalistic Jews and Arabians
- had the same fancy: it is the <em>pentalpha</em>, or <em>pentagrammon</em>,
- among the Egyptians; the mark of prosperity. Antiochus Soter, going
- to fight against the Galatians, was advised in a dream to bear this
- sign upon his banner; whence he obtained a signal victory. This would
- make one believe a physician had a hand in projecting this city. Dr.
- Musgrave thinks it was Scribonius, who accompanied Claudius hither.</p>
-
- <p>In the south-west part of the town are two other baths, not to be
- disregarded: for in any other place who would not purchase them at
- the greatest price? The Hot bath is a small parallelogram, not much
- inferior in heat to the King’s bath: it has a stone tabernacle of four
- pillars in the middle. The Cross bath, near it, is triangular, and had
- a cross in the middle; which now is a very handsome work, in marble,
- of three Corinthian pillars, erected by the lord Milford, in memory
- of king James the Second’s queen conceiving, as it is said, after the
- use thereof. Hard by is an hospital built and endowed by a bishop of
- this see. The water in these two places rises near to the level of the
- streets, because I suppose in this part of the town the earth is not
- so much heightened. On the south side of the cathedral are some parts
- of the abbey left, and the gate-house belonging to it. Not long ago,
- by money contributed, they made a cold bath, at a spring beyond the
- bridge, that nothing of this sort might be wanting for the benefit of
- the infirm.</p>
-
- <p>Since Mr. Camden’s time two inscriptions have been set in the eastern
- wall of the cathedral, fronting the walks: but this is as imprudently
- done as those in the city-walls; for, besides the rain and weather,
- they are exposed to the boys, who throw stones at them: one is that of
- Julius Vitalis, published by Dr. Musgrave; the other, which he calls a
- basso relievo of Geta, seems to have been the top of a monumental stone
- over some common horseman. <span class="sidenote">TAB. XLIX.</span>Harrison’s house, they say, is built against
- some basso’s and inscriptions. In the <a href="#i_148_1">49th plate</a> I have given the whole
- <span class="sidenote">TAB. XLI. 2d Vol.</span>stone and inscription, now in the wall near the north gate.</p>
-
- <p>At Walcot has been a camp, and many Roman antiquities are frequently
- found. Lord Winchelsea has an urn, a <em>patera</em>, and other things,
- found in a stone coffin, wherein was a child’s body, half a mile off
- the Bath.</p>
-
- <p>Riding upon Lansdown, I saw the monument, lately erected by lord
- Lansdown, in memory of his grandfather Bevil Granvile, slain here in
- a battle with the parliament forces. Hence, it being a north-west
- precipice, is a prospect of Bristol, the Severn, &amp;c. This road seems
- to be the Ricning-street, called Langridge, going to the passage over
- the Severn, the ancient <em>Trajectus</em> and so along the east side
- of the Severn, and into Yorkshire. The ground hereabouts is very red,
- covering a solid rock of stone, which lies in thin layers parallel to
- the horizon, with as much exactness as if hewn for courses in a wall:
- this stone is full of little shells; and of this sort is the monument
- of Julius Vitalis: between the <em>strata</em> are crystallizations or
- fluors of petrifying juices: all the stone in this country abounds
- with curious fossils. As you walk along a new paved road, it is
- very common<span class="pagenum" id="Page_149">149</span> to find very great <i lang="la">cornua ammonis</i>, two foot
- diameter, laid in among the rest; and, though formed with such
- admirable curiosity, yet the country people walk carelessly over them,
- as I observed, whilst a horse will startle at so unusual an appearance:
- the first I saw in the Foss road, going up the hill south of Bath, I
- took for the image of the Sun, which I remembered to have seen prints
- of, as it was in <i lang="la">basso relievo</i> in the city-walls, with his hair
- flowing round like rays; and this was well enough represented in a
- stone that had been worn a little: but I was soon undeceived, when I
- found great numbers of the same sort further on.<a id="FNanchor_132" href="#Footnote_132" class="fnanchor">[132]</a></p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp68 mb4" id="i_148_1">
- <div class="plateno"><i>49</i></div>
- <div><b><span class="smcap">Roman Inscriptions</span></b><br>
- <i>Honorabili Johĩ Clerke Baroni Scaccar. in Scotia tab. d.d. W<sup>s</sup>. Stukeley.</i></div>
- <img src="images/i_148_1.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley f.a.f 1723</i></div>
- <div><a href="#t_148a">See transcription</a></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp64 mb4" id="i_148_2">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>41·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <div><b><i>At Bathe.</i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_148_2.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>I. Harris fecit.</i></div>
- <div><a href="#t_148b">See transcription</a></div>
- </figure>
-
- <p class="clear"><span class="sidenote"><i>The</i> <span class="smcap">Weddings</span>. Br. <i>Temple</i>.</span>
- From the Bath I went to visit the famous Celtic temple called the
- Weddings, in company with John Strachey, esq; who lives near there,
- a person well versed in natural history and antiquities, and fellow
- of the Royal Society. I shall describe this memorable curiosity upon
- another occasion. In the way hither, about Twyfordton, I found a
- <span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Marsbury</span> <i>field</i>.</span>fallow field with but little quantity of earth upon the rock: this
- was as full of fossil shells as possible, let into a softish stone,
- which had preserved their very natural colour of blue and white
- as perfectly as at first. Near Stanton Drue, in a <em>trivium</em>,
- is an old elm-tree made infamous for the bloody trophies of judge
- Jeffrys’s barbarity, in the duke of Monmouth’s rebellion; for all its
- broad-spreading arms were covered over with heads and limbs of the
- unfortunate countrymen. In Chu parish is <span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Bowditch</span> <i>camp</i>.</span>Bowditch, a large camp on a
- hill trebly fortified, whence you may behold the isles of Flatholm
- and Steepholm in the sea. I suppose the word means the circular form
- of the place. Here is a petrifying spring. This country abounds with
- coal-pits: the slates that lie upon it, and have not received their due
- quantity of sulphur, so as to make perfect coal, are most curiously
- marked with impressions of plants, capillary ones especially, and more
- particularly those of fern; all which grew in exceeding plenty in this
- country, and gave their forms to this soft matter at the Deluge. This
- is indeed a rock, and full of springs, very bad road for travelling,
- short and steep valleys, narrow lanes, intricate, dark and hard: so
- no wonder <em>harts-tongue</em>, <em>liver-wort</em>, <em>maiden-hair</em>,
- <em>navel-wort</em>, and the like moist plants, thrive here. The ground
- in these valleys is very rich: much wood grows upon it; though in some
- roads you ride upon the superfice of a rock lying flat in great slabs,
- as if artificially placed with good joints. Many wood-plants grow about
- here, such as <em>wood-sorrel</em>, <em>strawberries</em>, <em>tutsan</em> or
- <em>park-leaves</em>, &amp;c. The neatness of the houses even of the poorer
- sort of people is remarkable, being generally whited over, and with
- pretty little gardens, which in pure and unartful nature is a necessary
- adjunct in the happiness of life.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><i>Camps.</i></div>
-
- <p>There is a camp overlooks Stanton Drue, called Mizknoll; another at
- Elm, two miles west from Frome: in 1691 a pot of Roman coin found
- there, most of Constantine junior: it is upon the end of a precipice,
- and severed from the rest of the hill by a <em>vallum</em> on one side
- only: south of it runs a rivulet. Masbury castle upon Mendip hills,
- half a mile from the Foss, a mile north of Shipton-Mallet, of a round
- form, 150 paces diameter: the two entrances opposite: the environing
- ditch on one end laps over with a semi-lunar turn, rendering the
- passage to it oblique. Hereabouts are many camps, whose ditches are
- hewn out of the solid rock: that above Bristol has four trenches,
- as many <em>vallums</em>, and but one entrance: one would think it
- impregnable to any thing but hunger. A camp cut out of the rock at
- Churchill with a single trench. There is a cave equal to that of
- Ochey-hole at Dolebury. These are from information of Mr. Strachey.</p>
-
- <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_150">150</span></p>
-
- <p>In this county of Somersetshire are three remarkable hills, that make
- an exact triangle twelve mile each side, much talked of by the country
- people; Camalet castle, Glassenbury torr, and Montacute. They have a
- notion that king Arthur obtained from some saint, that no serpent or
- venomous creature should ever be found in this compass, though frequent
- all around it. I shall rehearse to your lordship what occurred to me
- at the places. All this country, though to the eye very pleasant with
- woods and prospects yet is very disagreeable to travel, for the reasons
- I just mentioned.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Colomeæ.</span></div>
-
- <p>Camalet is a noted place, situate on the highest ground in this
- county, on the edge of Dorsetshire. <span class="sidenote">TAB. XLIII.</span>The country people are ignorant
- of this name, which has generally obtained among the learned: they
- call it Cadbury castle, from the village of North-Cadbury, in which
- it is: this caution is useful to those that go to enquire for it.
- Hereabouts rise the rivers of Somersetshire, which run into the
- Severn sea westward; and that in Dorset, which goes eastward, through
- Sturminster, into the southern ocean. It is a noble fortification of
- the Romans, placed on the north end of a ridge of hills separated from
- the rest by nature; and for the most part solid rock, very steep and
- high: there are three or four ditches quite round, sometimes more: the
- <em>area</em> within is twenty acres at least, rising in the middle:
- its figure is squarish, but conforms to the shape of the hill. There
- is a higher angle of ground within, ditched about, where they say was
- king Arthur’s palace: it was probably the <em>prætorium</em> and might
- be king Arthur’s too. who lived in this place: the country people
- refer all stories to him. The whole has been ploughed over since the
- memory of man, and much stone has been taken from the surface, which
- has altered it. The rampart is large and high, made chiefly of great
- stones covered with earth, and perhaps, in some parts where it was
- necessary, laid with mortar: here is only one entrance from the east.
- It is not unlikely there were buildings erected in the later British
- times, being of so great strength, and a perfect watch-tower, surveying
- the country round to an incredible distance. The prospect is woody,
- and very pleasant; here and there little hills, lofty and steep,
- peeping up with their naked heads: you reach all the Mendip hills and
- Black-down in Devonshire. In this camp they find many pebble-stones
- exactly round, half a peck at a time; whereas there are none such in
- the country: they suppose them stones to sling withal, fetched from
- the sea, or perhaps shot in cross-bows. Roman coin in great plenty
- has been found here, and all the country round: I saw vast numbers
- of Antoninus and Faustina, about that time and after. The entrance
- here is guarded with six or seven ditches: on the north side, in the
- fourth ditch, is a never-failing spring, called King Arthur’s well:
- over it they have dug up square stones, door-jambs with hinges, and
- say there are subterraneous vaults thereabouts. Selden, in his notes
- on <em>Polyolbion</em>, writes it was full of ruins and reliques of old
- buildings. At top they told me many pavements, and arches have been dug
- up, hand-grindstones, and other domestic or camp utensils. They say
- there is a road across the fields, that bears very rank corn, called
- King Arthur’s Hunting-causeway.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_150">
- <div class="plateno"><i>43</i></div>
- <div><b><i>Prospect From S<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span> Roc’s hill&nbsp; &nbsp; Sept. 15. 1723.</i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_150.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div>
- <figcaption><i>Prospect of Camalet Castle.</i> <i>15. Aug. 1723.</i></figcaption>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp68 mb4" id="i_151">
- <div class="plateno"><i>33</i></div>
- <div><b><i>Ichnography of the Abby of Glasenbury.&nbsp; &nbsp; 17. Aug. 1723.</i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_151.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="small"><b><i>The Street</i></b></div>
- <div class="attl"><i>I. V<sup>dr</sup>. Gucht Scul.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <p class="clear"><span class="sidenote smcap">Cadbury.</span>The church and tower of Cadbury is neat and small, built of stone.
- In this place they call walnuts <em>Welsh-nuts</em>. To the southward,
- on the opposite hill, corpses have been dug up: there was lately an
- urn full of Roman money found at Wincaunton. A little above Sutton,
- toward Beacon-Ash, in inclosing ground, half a peck of the same coin
- was found; I saw some of Tetricus. Roman <em>pateras</em>, a knife, and
- other antiquities, taken up thereabouts, sent to madam Thyns, now in
- lord Winchelsea’s custody.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_151">151</span> Many are the British stories told of
- Camalet, of the knights of king Arthur’s round table, of the solemn
- justings and tournaments there, &amp;c. It seems, when the castle for
- its security was turned into a city, this was the <em>Colomeæ</em> of
- Ravennas, (as Mr. Baxter has corrected it) in the later times of the
- Romans; unless Quincamel, not far off, can better put in its claim, to
- which this might be the garrison. At Long-Leat, in my lord Weymouth’s
- library, is a piece of lead weighing fifty pound, one foot nine inches
- long, two inches thick, three and an half broad, found in the lord
- Fitzharding’s grounds near Bruton in Somersetshire, and was discovered
- by digging a hole to set a gate-post in: upon it this memorable
- inscription, which I suppose was some trophy; communicated by lord
- Winchelsea.</p>
-
- <div class="center bbox large gesperrt clear" style="width: 16em;">IMP DVOR AVG ANTONINI<br>
- ET VERI ARMENIACORVM.</div>
-
- <p>Hence let us go, as in pilgrimage, to the famous Glassenbury; for it is
- a very rough and disagreeable road, over rocks and the heads of rivers:
- but that is much alleviated by the many natural curiosities such places
- afford: several times I saw <em>gilded ivy</em> grow in the hedges, as
- yellow as gold; great plenty of <em>viorna</em>, <em>purging-thorn</em>,
- <em>prim-print</em>, and the banks every where over-grown with
- <em>fox-gloves</em>. Kyneton village, for half a mile together, is paved
- naturally with one smooth broad rock, the whole breadth of the road;
- so that it looks like ice. Great quarries of stone hereabouts, of the
- slab kind: all the uppermost layers are incredibly full of sea-shells,
- and would make admirable pannels to wainscot a <em>virtuoso’s</em>
- summer-house, grotto, or the like, and of any dimensions; not inferior,
- in true value, to those brought from Italy, but too cheap. I frequently
- took notice that the course of the vein of the stone quarry runs
- north-east and south-west.</p>
-
- <p>Crossing the Foss road at Lyteford you enter upon a flat moorish
- country, full of artificial cuts and drains, like the levels in
- Lincolnshire. Not far before I came to Glassenbury, I observed a great
- bank, crossing the road, which seemed to be a Roman road. I guess there
- was a Roman road went from Bristol, through Axbridge, Bridgewater,
- Taunton, parallel to the Foss, and nearer the ocean. I have been told,
- between the two last places it is very fair, and paved with stone. With
- much labour I climbed to the top of the Torr, hanging over the town of
- <span class="sidenote smcap">Glasenbury Torr</span>Glassenbury. This hill, with that called Werial hill, is a long rib of
- elevated ground in the midst of this vast level or isle of <span class="sidenote">TAB. XXXVII.</span>Avalon. I
- observed, in its several breaks or gradations, a steepness westward.
- Here upon the narrow crest of the Torr, which is much the highest, the
- abbots built a church to St. Michael, of good square stone: the tower
- is left, though ruinous; and it is an excellent sea-mark: it probably
- cost more to carry the stone up to this <em>apex</em>, than to erect the
- building. There is a spring half way up it. It is certainly higher than
- any ground within ten miles of the place. They say here is a passage
- hence under ground to the abbey.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Glasenbury.</div>
-
- <p>This great monastery in superstitious times held the first place for
- fame and sanctity. Here the christian doctrine first found admittance
- in Britain, or early tradition has amused us: it is not unlikely the
- fact may be true, <span class="sidenote">TAB. XXXIII.</span>though the persons and circumstances invented:
- however, it is not to be doubted but king Ina built their church; as
- one of the most ancient, so the most wealthy and magnificent, loaded
- with revenues by the Saxon<span class="pagenum" id="Page_152">152</span> kings, and perhaps the British before
- them. Truly the abbot lived in no less state than the royal donors: no
- wonder, when his revenue was equivalent to 40,000l. per ann. he could
- from the Torr see a vast tract of this rich land his own demesnes,
- and seven parks well stored with deer belonging to the monastery. It
- is walled round and embattled like a town, a mile in compass: as yet
- there are magnificent ruins; but within a <em>lustrum</em> of years, a
- presbyterian tenant has made more barbarous havock there, than has
- been since the Dissolution; for every week a pillar, a buttress, a
- window-jamb, or an angle of fine hewn stone, is sold to the best
- bidder: whilst I was there they were excoriating St. Joseph’s chapel
- for that purpose, and the squared stones were laid up by lots in the
- abbot’s kitchen: the rest goes to paving yards and stalls for cattle,
- or the highway. I observed frequent instances of the townsmen being
- generally afraid to make such purchase, as thinking an unlucky fate
- attends the family where these materials are used; and they told me
- many stories and particular instances of it: others, that are but half
- religious, will venture to build stables and out-houses therewith, but
- by no means any part of the dwelling-house. The abbot’s lodging was a
- fine stone building, but could not content the tenant just mentioned,
- who pulled it down two or three years ago, and built a new house out of
- it; aukwardly setting up the arms and cognisances of the great Saxon
- kings and princes, founders, and of the abbots, over his own doors and
- windows: <span class="sidenote">TAB. XXXVII.</span>my friend Mr. Strachey had taken a drawing of it very luckily
- just before, <span class="sidenote">TAB. XXXIV.</span>which I have put in its proper place, <a href="#i_152_1">plate 37</a>. Nothing
- is reserved intire but the kitchen, a judicious piece of architecture:
- it is formed from an octagon included in a square; four fire-places
- fill the four angles, having chimneys over them: in the flat part of
- the roof, between these, rises the arched octagonal pyramid, crowned
- with a double lantern, one within another: there are eight curved ribs
- within, which support this vault, and eight funnels for letting out
- the steam through windows; within which, in a lesser pyramid, hung the
- bell to call the poor people to the adjacent almery, whose ruins are
- on the north side of the kitchen: the stones of the pyramid are all
- cut slaunting with the same bevil to throw off the rain. They have a
- report in the town, that king Henry VIII. quarrelling with the abbot,
- threatened to fire his kitchen: to which he returned answer, That he
- would build such a one as all the timber in his forest should not burn.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote">TAB. XXXVI.</div>
-
- <p>The church was large and magnificent: the walls of the choir are
- standing, twenty-five fathom long, twelve broad: there is one jamb
- at the east end of the high altar left: hereabouts were buried king
- Edgar, and many of the Saxon kings, whose noble ashes ought to have
- protected the whole: two pillars of the great middle tower are left
- next the choir: on the north side is St. Mary’s chapel, as they told
- me; the roof beat down by violence, and a sorry wooden one in its
- place, thatched with stubble to make it serve as a stable: the manger
- lies upon the altar and niche where they put the holy water. St.
- Edgar’s chapel is opposite to it; not much left of it, beside the
- foundations: the north and south transepts are quite demolished. They
- say king Arthur was buried under the great tower. A small part of the
- south side wall of the body of the church remains, which made one side
- of the cloysters; and the arch at the west end, leading to the chapel
- of Joseph of Arimathea, the patron and asserted founder of the whole.
- This they say was the first christian church in Britain. The present
- work is about the third building upon the same spot:<span class="sidenote">TAB. XXXV.</span> it is forty-four
- paces long, thirty-six wide without: it is so intire, that we could
- well enough draw<span class="pagenum" id="Page_153">153</span> the whole structure, as in <a href="#i_152_4">plate 35</a>. the roof
- is chiefly wanting: two little turrets are at the corners of the west
- end, and two more at the interval of four windows from thence, which
- seem to indicate the space of ground the first chapel was built on: the
- rest between it and the church was a sort of anti-chapel. Underneath
- was a vault now full of water, the floor of the chapel being beaten
- down into it: it was wrought with great stones. Here was a capacious
- receptacle of the dead: they have taken up many leaden coffins, and
- melted them into cisterns. Hence is the subterraneous arched passage
- to the Torr, according to their notion. The roof of the chapel was
- finely arched with rib-work of stone: the sides of the walls are full
- of small pillars of Sussex marble, as likewise the whole church; which
- was a little way of ornamenting in those days: they are mostly beaten
- down: between them the walls are painted with pictures of saints, as
- still easily seen. All the walls are overgrown with ivy, which is the
- only thing here in a flourishing condition; everything else presenting
- a most melancholy, though venerable aspect. On the south side the
- cloysters was the great hall. The town’s people bought the stone of<span class="sidenote">TAB. XXXVII.</span>
- the vaults underneath to build a sorry market-house, contributing to
- the ruin of the sacred fabric, and to their own: what they durst not
- have done singly, they perpetrated as a body, hoping vengeance would
- slip between so many: nor did they discern the benefit accruing to
- the town from the great concourse of strangers purposely to see this
- abbey, which is now the greatest trade of it, as formerly its only
- support; for it is in a most miserable decaying condition, as wholly
- cut off from the great revenues spent among them. There are many
- other foundations of the buildings left in the great <em>area</em>, but
- in the present hands will soon be rooted up, and the very footsteps
- of them effaced, which so many ages had been erecting. Though I am
- no encourager of superstitious foppery, yet I think, out of that
- vast estate, somewhat might have been left, if only to preserve old
- monuments for the benefit of our history. The abbot’s hall I have been
- told was curiously wainscoted with oak, and painted with coats of arms
- in every pannel. The mortar of these buildings is very good, and great
- rocks of the roof of the church lie upon the ground, consisting chiefly
- of rubble stone untouched by the fanatical destroyers, who work on the
- hewn stone of the outside, till a whole wall falls when undermined a
- little. Throughout the town are the tattered remains of doors, windows,
- bases, capitals of pillars, &amp;c. brought from the abbey, and put into
- every poor cottage.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_152_1">
- <div class="plateno"><i>37</i></div>
- <div><b><i>The Prospect of</i> Glasenbury Abby.</b></div>
- <img src="images/i_152_1.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div>
- <figcaption class="small">A. <i>S<sup>t</sup>. Josephs chappel.</i>&nbsp; &nbsp; B. <i>The Abby Church.</i>&nbsp; &nbsp; C. <i>S<sup>t</sup>.
- Marys chappel.</i>&nbsp; &nbsp; D. <i>Edgars chappel.</i>&nbsp; &nbsp; E. <i>The high Alter.</i>&nbsp; &nbsp; F. <i>The Cloysters.</i>
- &nbsp; &nbsp; G. <i>The Hall.</i>&nbsp; &nbsp; H. <i>The Abbots kitchin.</i>&nbsp; &nbsp; I. <i>The Abbots Lodging.</i></figcaption>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_152_2">
- <div class="plateno"><i>34</i></div>
- <div><b><i>The Orthography Section &amp; Groundplot of the Abbot of Glasenburys Kitchin.&nbsp; &nbsp; Aug. 17. 1723.</i></b></div>
- <img class="mt5" src="images/i_152_2.jpg" alt="">
- <figcaption class="left small"><i>Celeberrimo Viro Humfredo Wanleio d.d. W. Stukeley.</i></figcaption>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_152_3">
- <div class="plateno"><i>36</i></div>
- <div><b><i>A Prospect of the Ruins of</i> Glasenbury Abby&nbsp; &nbsp; <i>Aug. 17. 1723</i>.</b></div>
- <img src="images/i_152_3.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall scul</i>:</div>
- <figcaption class="small">A. <i>The Abbots Kitchin.</i>&nbsp; &nbsp; B. <i>His Lodgings.</i>&nbsp; &nbsp; C. <i>S<sup>t</sup> Iosephs Chappel.</i>
- &nbsp; &nbsp; D. <i>The Town Church.</i>&nbsp; &nbsp; E. <i>the Abby Church.</i>&nbsp; &nbsp; F. <i>the Tower.</i>&nbsp; &nbsp; G. <i>S<sup>t</sup> Marys Chappel.</i>
- &nbsp; &nbsp; H. <i>Edgars Chappel.</i>&nbsp; &nbsp; I. <i>the Choir.</i>&nbsp; &nbsp; K. <i>the Cloysters.</i>&nbsp; &nbsp; L. <i>the Hall.</i>
- &nbsp; &nbsp; M. <i>the Monks Lodgings.</i>&nbsp; &nbsp; N. <i>the Almery.</i></figcaption>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_152_4">
- <div class="plateno"><i>35</i></div>
- <img src="images/i_152_4.jpg" alt="">
- <div><b><i>The Inside Section of S<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span> Joseph of Arimathea’s Chapel at Glasenbury.<br>
- <span class="small">Tho. Tanner D.D. Sacra Tabula.</span></i></b></div>
- <div class="attl"><i>G. V<sup>der</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.6em;">.</span> Gucht. Scul.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <p class="clear mt4">In the town are two churches; the upper a handsome fabric, with a fine
- tower of good design, adorned with figures in niches: at the east end
- of the church-yard is a curious old tomb inscribed with ancient English
- letters, but so worn with trampling on, that I could make little out
- of it, except the name of the interred Alleyn. The George inn is an
- old stone building, called the Abbot’s inn, where chiefly the pilgrims
- were lodged that came strolling hither, and idling their time away for
- sanctity: stone and timber are liberally bestowed on it: a coat of arms
- of the kings of England, supported by a lion and a bull, over the gate,
- and many crosses: the bed I lay in was of large timber, with great
- embossed gilt pannels, and seemed to have been the abbot’s.</p>
-
- <p>When I left this place, I passed through a great gate built across
- the road under the abbey wall, with a lesser portal by the side of
- it; which I suppose was some boundary of the abbey-lands, and part of
- their extravagance; for the abbot’s revenues being inconsumable in
- their way of life, they prodigally threw it away in building, as one
- method of perpetuating their<span class="pagenum" id="Page_154">154</span> name: another they had which was very
- useful, the making great and high causeways, along this moory country,
- for facilitating travelling and commerce; the remains of which I saw
- here and there, and wished they had been in better repair. I passed by
- the side of Werial hill, where grew the famous hawthorn that blossomed
- at Christmas; I suppose, an early blooming white-thorn: but that it
- so strictly observed Christmas day to an hour, nay a minute, as they
- here assert, I believe no more than the vulgar derivation of the hill,
- with more of the dregs of monkery. Somerton is an old town, that gives
- name to the whole county, once the royal seat of the West-Saxon kings:
- the steeple is octangular: probably it was a Roman town. I saw a camp
- upon a great copped high hill on the right hand, as I travelled. At
- Ilchester town end I fell into the Foss road again.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Ischalis.</div>
-
- <div class="sidenote">TAB. LXXII.</div>
-
- <p>This station of the Romans is situate on the south side of the river
- Ivel, or Yeovil, the <em>Velox</em> of Ravennas. Pillbridge, a little
- lower, seems to retain the name: it is the <em>Uzella</em> of Ptolemy. I
- perceived immediately that this place had been originally encompassed
- with a wall and ditch, and traced out the manifest <em>vestigia</em>
- thereof quite round: it was an oblong square 300 paces in length, 200
- in breadth, standing upon the oblique points of the compass, conform
- to the Foss way, which passes through the town exactly from north-east
- to south-west: the north-east side of the city lay against the river,
- where I saw foundations of the wall here and there, and took up several
- Roman bricks in searching for it in the gardens: the ditch on the
- north-west side is become a road, called Yard-lane, as going behind
- the yards and gardens: then it runs through the friery garden; for the
- religious had extended their bounds beyond the city, and turned the
- road on the outside: then it goes along the road on the back of Mr.
- Lockyer’s garden: it is now visible between the Yeovil road and the
- southern angle; then runs through another garden, being for the most
- part levelled by the gardener, who showed me the track of it, and had
- by times, in digging, taken up remainders of the wall, with many coins,
- bricks, tiles, and other antiquities. I bought some coins of him, among
- which the brass one of Antoninus Pius depicted in the plate; on the
- reverse, Britannia sitting on a rock with a military ensign. Sir Philip
- Sydenham has a great quantity of coins found here, and the minister of
- the parish gave many to the learned Mr. Coke of Norfolk. This gardener
- showed me many square paving bricks in the floor of his house, and told
- me he dug up a great brass coin, as big as half a crown, under the
- foundation of the wall, which doubtless would have discovered to us
- the <em>area</em> of its building. Crossing the Sherburn and Limington
- road, we find the ditch again, turning up to the river-side, on the
- eastern angle, conformable to the scheme; where it is again inclosed
- into gardens and pastures: the occupier of the gardens there informed
- me too, that he had frequently dug up the like antiquities, together
- with the foundations of the wall. The quickset-hedge that fences in
- the garden stands on the edge of the ditch, and observes its turn at
- that angle of the city: by the new mill it meets the river. In all the
- gardens hereabouts, by the Borough-green, they find foundations of old
- houses; and some run across the present streets, now visible above
- ground. This ditch, when perfect, admitted the water of the river quite
- round. Mr. Lockyer’s house is built upon subterraneous arches. They say
- here have been sixteen parish-churches, and foundations are to be found
- all the town over; and that the suburbs extended southward, especially
- on the Yeovil road, which formerly had a gate: it is not to be doubted
- but that there were gates at the passage of all the other streets. They
- say the bishop of Bath and Wells has a manuscript<span class="pagenum" id="Page_155">155</span> relating to the
- ancient state of this town. They have the same tradition as in many
- other places, that the old city was set on fire by matches tied to the
- tails of sparrows, let fly from a place called Stannard-cross hill. As
- soon as I came into the inn, (the Swan) I saw a great parcel of the
- little stones of a tesselated pavement, found but two days before, in a
- garden over the way near the river: a croud of people came immediately
- out of curiosity to see it, and tore it up: I saw some of the remainder
- <em>in situ</em>, about two foot deep, laid in strong mortar upon a hard
- gravelled floor: I made the owner melancholy with informing him what
- profit he might have got by preserving it, to show to strangers. The
- Foss-way retains its name, and makes the principal street: the pavement
- thereof, or the original ford across the river, may be seen on the
- west side of the bridge, made with great flag stones. Upon the bridge
- is an old chapel, called Little St. Mary’s: at the foot of the bridge
- within the town is another, called White-chapel; both converted into
- dwellings. Foundations of houses, chimney-pieces, and the like, have
- been dug up in the meads on the west side the town, and on both sides
- the river, with stone coffins and other funeral <em>apparatus</em>. The
- head of the mayor’s staff or mace is a piece of great antiquity in cast
- brass: there are four niches with four images, two kings, a queen, and
- an angel: it seems to have been the crosier of some religious house:
- round the bottom is wrote, in two lines, <span class="antiqua">+ JESU DE DRUERJE + NEME
- DUNETMJE</span>. In the northern angle beyond the old ditch of the city,
- towards the river, have been some bastions and modern fortifications,
- of the time of king Charles I.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp64 mb4" id="i_154">
- <div class="plateno"><i>72</i></div>
- <div><b>ISCHALIS</b><br><i class="small">17. Aug. 1723.</i></div>
- <img src="images/i_154.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>I. V<sup>der</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.6em;">.</span> Gucht Sculp.</i></div>
- <div><a href="#t_154">See transcription</a></div>
- </figure>
-
- <p class="clear">Beyond the river is a village adjoining, called North-over, with a
- church; at Mrs. Hoddle’s, hard by, I saw a grey-hound bitch, from whose
- side a skewer of wood seven inches long had worked itself out from the
- stomach: we have some such rare cases in medicinal histories. They talk
- of a castle standing where now is the gaol, and that the tide came
- formerly up hither, though now it reaches not beyond Langport. West of
- this, some time since, they dug up some bones in a leaden case, as big
- as a band-box, laid in a hollowed stone; and near it, under a tree, was
- a vault of stone, where a body was found lying at full length. Langport
- is moted about, as they tell me, and probably was a Roman town. These
- were all the remarkables I met with at <em>Ischalis</em>, where I staid
- but half a day.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote">Foss <i>road</i>.</div>
-
- <p>Hence I continued my journey along the Foss, which I observed paved
- with the original work in many parts: it is composed of the flat
- quarry-stones of the country, of a good breadth, laid edgewise, and
- so close that it looks like the side of a wall fallen down, and
- through the current of so many ages is not worn through: a glorious
- and useful piece of industry, and, to our shame, not imitated; for
- small reparation from time to time would have preserved it intire,
- and where it is so much wanted in a dirty country. As I rode, on my
- left hand I saw the pleasant view of Montacute hill, a copped round
- eminence incompassed at bottom with a broad verge of wood, so that it
- looks like a high-crowned hat with a fringed hat-band: here has been
- a castle and chapel at top, and below it a religious house built by
- the earl of Moriton in the time of William the Conqueror.<a id="FNanchor_133" href="#Footnote_133" class="fnanchor">[133]</a> Another
- hill near it, much of the same figure. Between them and the Foss,
- upon <span class="pagenum" id="Page_156">156</span>the same hilly ridge, is a Roman camp called
- <span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Hamden-hill.</span> Ro. <i>camp</i>.</span>Hamden hill, with
- a double ditch about it; to which leads a vicinal Roman way from the
- Foss through Stoke. The Foss is very plain and strait hither, and to
- Petherton bridge near South Petherton, once the palace of king Ina:<span class="sidenote">TAB. XLIV.</span>
- here was formerly a wooden bridge, but ruinous, where two children were
- drowned, as they say; whereupon their parents rebuilt it of stone, and
- caused their <em>effigies</em> to be cut upon a stone which lies at the
- foot of the bridge. In a field not far off, two years ago a pot full
- of Roman coin, to the quantity of six pecks, was dug up. Beyond this
- the Foss grows intricate and obscure, from the many collateral roads
- made through the badness and want of reparation in the true one; yet
- it seems to run through Donington, which stands on a very high hill,
- and, when mounted, presents us with a vast scene of Devonshire. I
- suppose this Foss went on the east side of Chard, and so by Axminster
- and Culliton, to Seaton or <em>Moridunum</em>, where properly it begins;
- whence if we measure its noble length to the sea-coast in Lincolnshire,
- at Grimsby or Saltfleet, where I imagine it ends, it amounts to 250
- Roman miles in a strait line from north-east to south-west. Your
- lordship presented me with an oyster, found a little northward of
- Axminster, where the very fish appears petrified with its cartilaginous
- concretion to the shell, all in their proper colours.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Chard.</div>
-
- <p>The street of Chard runs directly east and west, where formerly was
- kept a large market on Sundays. Beyond this to Honiton is a very bad
- road of stones and sand, over brooks, spring-heads, and barren downs.
- From the hill-tops about Stockland I first had sight of the southern
- ocean; a most solemn view, a boundless extent of water thrown into a
- mighty horizontal curve. Beyond Honiton the scene of travelling mended
- apace, and the fine Devonshire prospects entertained the eye in a
- manner new and beautiful; for here the hills are very long and broad,
- the valleys between proportional, so that the vastly-extended concavity
- presented an immense landscape of pastures and hedge-rows distinct,
- like a map of an actual survey, and not beyond ken: these are full of
- springs, brooks, and villages, copses and gentlemen’s seats; and when
- you have passed over one hill, you see the like repeated before you,
- with Nature’s usual diversity. They told me of a great kairn, or heap
- of stones, on Black down, called Lapper-stones; probably a sepulchral monument.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Isca Dumnoniorum.</span></div>
-
- <div class="sidenote">TAB. LXXIII.</div>
-
- <p>Exeter is the famous <i lang="la">Isca Dumnoniorum</i> of the Romans, the last
- station this way in Antoninus his Itinerary; <em>pen cair</em> of the
- Britons, the capital: it is a large and populous city, built upon
- a pleasant eminence on the eastern bank of the river <em>Ex</em>, or
- <em>Isca</em> when latinised. I suppose the original word signifies no
- more than waters, like the French <em>eaux</em>, a collection of them,
- or several rivers, or branches of rivers, running parallel; and that
- whether it be wrote <em>Ax</em>, <em>Ex</em>, <em>Ix</em>, <em>Ox</em>, or
- <em>Ux</em>; of which many instances all over England. This river is
- navigable up to the city, but the tide comes not quite so high. The
- walls take in a very great compass, being a parallelogram of 3000
- Roman feet long, 2000 broad; having a gate on every side: it lies
- oblique to the cardinal points of the compass, and objects its main
- declivity to the south-west. What adds to its wholesomeness and
- cleanliness, is that the ground is higher in a ridge along the middle
- of its length, declining on both sides: further, on the south-west
- and north-west sides it is precipicious: so that, with the river,
- the walls, the declivity of ground and ditch without side, it was a
- place of very great strength, and well chose for a frontier against
- the ancient <em>Corinavii</em>: it was built with a good omen, and has
- been ever in a flourishing condition. The walls are in pretty good
- <span class="pagenum" id="Page_157">157</span>repair, having many lunettes and towers, and make a walk round the
- city, with the advantage and pleasure of seeing the fine country on
- the opposite hills, full of wood, rich ground, orchards, villages
- and gentlemen’s houses. The beauty of the place consists mainly of
- one long street, running the length of the parallelogram, called
- High-street, broad and strait: the houses are of a very old, but good
- model, spacious, commodious, and not inelegant: this street is full of
- shops well furnished, and all sorts of trades look brisk. The people
- are industrious and courteous: the fair sex are truly so, as well as
- numerous; their complexions, and generally their hair likewise, fair:
- they are genteel, disengaged, of easy carriage and good mien. At Mr.
- Cole’s the goldsmith I saw an old ground-plot of this city in queen
- Elizabeth’s time: there has been since a vast increase of buildings
- within and without the city: the situation renders it of necessity
- clean, dry and airy. The soil hither from Honiton was rather sandy
- than stony, whence it must needs be very healthful; and it is of a
- convenient distance from the sea. They drive a great trade here for
- woollen manufacture in cloths, serges, stuffs, &amp;c. all along the
- water-side innumerable tenters or racks for stretching them. Here is
- a good face of learning too; many booksellers’ shops: I saw a printed
- catalogue of an auction of books to be sold there. I saw the coloss
- head of the empress Julia Domna dug up near Bath, in Dr. Musgrave’s
- garden, which his father calls <em>Andromache</em>: the head-dress is
- like that of her times, and her bust at Wilton; nor is the manner and
- carving despisable: the graver has not done it justice. It is the
- noblest relique of British antiquity of this sort that we know: it is
- twenty-one inches from the top of the attire to the chin, and belonged
- to a statue of twelve foot proportion, set upon some temple or palace
- originally. In the same place is the inscription of Camillus published
- by him: I saw his library, a very good collection of books, coins and
- other antiquarian <em>supellex</em>; likewise a treatise, ready for
- publication, of the original gout, which he wrote thirty years ago,
- before his other two. The doctor had made this distemper his particular
- view through his long practice; and this country remarkably abounds
- with patients of that sort, which he attributes in a great measure to
- the custom of marling the lands with lime, and the great use of poor,
- sweet cyder, especially among the meaner people.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp68 mb4" id="i_156">
- <div class="plateno"><i>73</i></div>
- <div><b><span class="smcap">Isca.</span> <i>S. Sidwels</i> <span class="smcap">Dvmnoniorvm</span>.</b><br>
- <span class="small">19 Aug. 1723</span></div>
- <img class="mt2" src="images/i_156.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>Parker sculp.</i></div>
- <div><a href="#t_156">See transcription</a></div>
- </figure>
-
- <p class="clear">In the northern angle of the city, and highest ground, is Rugemont
- castle, once the royal residence of the West-Saxon kings, then of
- the earls of Cornwall: it is of a squarish figure, not very large,
- environed with a high wall and deep ditch: there is a rampire of earth
- within, equal in height to the top of the wall at present, and makes
- a terrace-walk overlooking the city and country. In the morning, the
- air being perfectly serene, and the sun shining, I observed from this
- place all the country southward, between the sea and Exeter, covered
- with a very thick fog; the west side of the city and country beyond it
- very clear. In this place is the assize-house and a chapel. In the wall
- of this castle is a narrow cavity quite round, perhaps for conveyance
- of a sound from turret to turret. Dr. Holland supposes this to have
- been a Roman work originally; and it is not unlikely that it was their
- <em>prætorium</em>, or garrison. Beyond the ditch is a pleasant walk of
- trees, and a little intrenched hill, called Danes castle.</p>
-
- <p>The cathedral is a good pile of building: two old towers stand on
- the north and south transept of the most ancient part: the organ is
- remarkably large; the diapason pipes fifteen inches diameter, and
- set against the pillars of the church: the west front of the church
- is full of old statues. Many religious foundations in the city are
- converted into streets and houses, full<span class="pagenum" id="Page_158">158</span> of numerous families and
- thriving inhabitants, instead of lazy monks and nuns. King Edward I. in
- the Saxon times founded the monastery of Exeter, anno 868: Athelstan
- enlarged it for the Benedictines in 932: Edward Confessor translated
- those monks to Westminster, and made this an episcopal see; not Edward
- III. as Mr. Camden says. Leofricus a Briton was the first bishop, and
- founder of the cathedral: he was chaplain to king Edward the Confessor,
- anno 1046: he gave his lands at Bampton in Oxfordshire to this church:
- he has a monument in the southern transept. Warewast, the third bishop,
- began to build the choir, 13 Henry I. Bishop Brewer created the dean
- and prebends in the time of Henry III. Bishop Quivel built the body of
- the church to the west end, 13 Edward I. he instituted the sub-dean and
- singing-men. Bishop Grandison lengthened the cathedral by two arches,
- and is buried in a little chapel in the west end: bishop Lacy began
- the chapter-house; bishop Nevil finished it: bishop Courtney built the
- north tower, or rather repaired it, and gave that large bell called
- <em>Peter</em>: the dean and chapter built the cloysters. St. Mary’s
- chapel, at the end of the choir, is now turned into a library: this,
- I suppose, is what bishop Leofric built. The bishop’s throne in the
- choir is a lofty Gothic work. Here are many monuments of bishops in the cathedral.</p>
-
- <p>The present deanery, they say, was a nunnery. The monastery of St.
- Andrew at Cowic was founded by Thomas Courtney earl of Devon; a cell
- to Bec abbey in Normandy: it was dissolved in the time of Edward III.
- Roger Holland, I suppose duke of Exeter, lived in it in the time
- of Edward VI. St. Nicholas’ priory was a cell to Battle abbey: St.
- John’s was of Augustine friers: Polesloe, a mile off, dedicate to St.
- Catharine, a nunnery of the Benedictine order: Marsh was a cell to
- Plympton: Cleve was a monastery of Black canons; St. James’ priory,
- of Cluniac monks: Grey friers, without South-gate, were Franciscans;
- Gold-hays, without West-gate, Black friers: the Bear inn was the abbot
- of Tavistock’s house; the Blacklion too was a religious house; Lathbier
- another, near the new river below Radford mount. Thus had these holy
- locusts well nigh devoured the land.</p>
-
- <p>In Corry lane, over-against St. Paul’s church, is a little old house
- called King Athelstan’s, said to have been his palace, built of large
- square stones, and circular arches over the doors: it seems indeed to
- have been originally a Roman building, though other later works have
- been added to the doors and windows: over the door in the street is a
- very small niche crouded into the wall, as if it had been converted
- into a religious house: in the yard a winding stone stair-case is
- added. One arch of South-gate seems to be Roman. No doubt the walls of
- the city are upon the Roman foundation for the most part, and great
- numbers of antiquities have been found here. In digging behind the
- guild-hall in Pancras-lane, they found a great Roman pavement of little
- white square stones eight foot deep. A pot of Roman coin of two pecks
- was dug up, two years ago, near St. Martin’s church: I saw some of
- them in Dr. Musgrave’s possession, of Gordian, Balbinus, Philippus,
- Julia Mæsa, Geta, Gallienus, and the like. Mr. Loudham, surgeon in this
- city, has many of them among his curious collection of antiquities,
- manuscripts, &amp;c. Mr. Reynolds the schoolmaster is a great collector
- and preserver of such learned remains. St. Mary Arches church, and St.
- Stephen’s Bow, by their names seem to have been built out of Roman temples.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_159_1">
- <div class="plateno"><i>75</i></div>
- <div><b>MORIDVNVM&nbsp; &nbsp; Aug. 20 1723.</b></div>
- <img src="images/i_159_1.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div>
- <figcaption class="small left">A. <i>Seaton.</i>&nbsp; &nbsp; B. <i>Salt pans.</i>&nbsp; &nbsp; C. <i>Watch tower.</i>&nbsp; &nbsp; D.
- <i>Portland.</i></figcaption>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_159_2">
- <div class="plateno"><i>74</i></div>
- <div><b>Prospect of Exeter 19 Aug. 1723.<br><span class="small">ISCA Dumnoniorum.</span></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_159_2.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_159">159</span></p>
-
- <div class="sidenote">TAB. LXXIV.</div>
-
- <p>The bridge over the <em>Isca</em> is of great length, and has houses on
- both sides and both ends; a considerable void space in the middle:
- there is a church upon it with a tower-steeple. In the Guild-hall
- are the pictures of general Monk, and the princess Henrietta Maria,
- born at Bedford-house, a palace in this city, during the civil wars.
- The composition of the stone of this country is intirely made of
- little black pebbles, incrusted in a sandy matter of a red colour and
- mouldering nature.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Moridunum.</div>
-
- <div class="sidenote">TAB. LXXV.</div>
-
- <p>Leaving Exeter, my farthest western longitude at present, I steered my
- course back again along the sea-side, inwrapped in contemplation with
- the poet,</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza" lang="la">
- <div class="i0"><i>Undæ quæ vestris pulsatis littora lymphis,</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Littora quæ dulces auras diffunditis agris!</i> <span class="smcap fright">Virg.</span></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">Nor could I think myself alone, when so much new entertainment was
- presented to me every minute. Much rock-samphire grows upon these
- cliffs. The Roman road seems to have crossed the Otter at Hertford. At
- Woodbury is a camp. I passed by Sidmouth, and came to Seaton, a little
- village upon the mouth of the river Ax. This Mr. Camden conjectures
- to have been the Roman <em>Moridunum</em>, and with reason: it has been
- a great haven and excellent port, of which they still keep up the
- memory: the river runs in a large valley, having high ground on each
- side: the shore is rocky, high and steep, consisting of the ends of
- hills which here run north and south: the ground at bottom under the
- rocks is marly; the waves wash it down perpetually, undermining the
- <em>strata</em> of stone, which from time to time fall down in great
- parcels. At present this haven mouth, which is a good half-mile over,
- is filled up with beach, as they call it; that is, coggles, gravel,
- sand, shells, and such matter as is thrown up by the roll of the
- ocean: so that the river water has but a very narrow passage on the
- east side under the cliff. The beach was covered over with <i lang="la">papaver
- luteum corniculatum</i>, now in blossom: the people in the isle of
- Portland call it <em>squat maw</em>, i. e. bruise herb, and use it in
- that case, no doubt with good success, where both intentions are
- answered, of dissolving the coagulated blood, and easing pain. On the
- west side, near Seaton, upon a little eminence is a modern ruined
- square <em>Pharos</em> built of brick; they remember it sixteen foot
- high; and two guns lie there. They say there were formerly many great
- foundations of houses visible nearer the sea than the present town, but
- now swallowed up; and in all likelihood there stood the Roman city.
- More inward toward the land, beyond the great bank of beach, is a
- marsh which the sea has made, landing itself up when its free flux was
- hindered: this is full of salt-pans, into which they take the sea-water
- at high tides. When they dig these places they find innumerable keels
- and pieces of vessels, with nails, pitch, anchors, &amp;c. six or eight
- foot deep, because it was formerly part of the haven: anchors have
- been found as high as Axminster, and beyond it, though now there is no
- navigation at all: so great a change has Time produced in the face of
- Nature, upon these confines of the two great elements always opposing each other.</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry" lang="la">
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0"><i>Sic volvenda ætas commutat tempora rerum.</i> <span class="smcap fright">Lucr. V.</span></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">Half a mile off, upon higher ground,<span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Honey-Ditches.</span> <i>a Camp</i>.</span> on the western side is a castle
- in a pasture, but formerly tilled, called Honey Ditches: it is moted
- about, and perhaps walled; for they dig up much square stone there. The
- place is an oblong square, containing about three acres: I guess it to
- have been the garrison of the port. Just by the present haven-mouth is
- a great and long pier or wall, jutting out into the sea, made of great
- rocks piled together to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_160">160</span> the breadth of six yards. They told me it
- was built many years ago by one Courd, once a poor sailor, who, being
- somewhere in the Mediterranean, was told by a certain Greek, that much
- treasure was hid upon Hogsdon hill near here, and that this memorial
- was transmitted to him by his ancestors: Courd, upon his return digging
- there, luckily found the golden mine, which enriched him prodigiously;
- so that at his own expence he built this wall, with an intent to
- restore the harbour. The people hereabouts firmly believe the story,
- and many have dug in the place with like hopes; and as an argument of
- its truth, they say some of his family are still remaining, that live
- upon their estate got by him.</p>
-
- <p>A mile higher on the same western side of the river is Cullyford, where
- was the ancient road from London to Exeter passing over at Axbridge,
- which is now a stony ford, with two bridges that trathe valley
- and the river, once a haven. Here have been many inns and houses, and a
- considerable town. They talk of great stone vaults being found; so that
- it probably arose from the destruction of <em>Moridunum</em>, as Culliton
- adjacent, from it. Further, it was a corporation, and they now keep up
- their claim by an annual choice of a mayor, who has a mace too, but I
- suppose not of great elegance.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Londinis.</div>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Lyme.</div>
-
- <div class="sidenote">TAB. LXXVI.</div>
-
- <p>Lyme lies upon the sea-side, in the cavity between two mountains, the
- <em>Londinis</em> of Ravennas according to Mr. Baxter. Here is a bold
- stony shore, the ridges of the hills jutting out into the sea; but
- broken off continually, and wasted away, by the waves as before: the
- ground too is clay and stone. Their method of opposing its violence
- is to throw out a wall of huge dry stones, which by time gathers the
- beech, and consolidates to a greater breadth. Besides, here is a great
- artificial pier, called the Cobb, extended to the length of 1000 foot
- with a bow into the ocean, where ships lie secure from the impetuous
- surges. Here are two little forts, one with five, another with three
- guns. A large sort of sea horse-tail grows plentifully upon these
- clayey cliffs; and many little springs issue thereout in the face
- of the briny deep, which loosen the earth, and hasten its continual
- downfall. I took notice that the declivity of the hills, with the veins
- of stone and different <em>strata</em> of earth in these cliffs, is ever
- north-west, just as is the appearance of the Isle of Portland hence,
- and with the same angle. The town of Lyme has a pretty good appearance.
- A small river runs in a rocky <em>alveus</em> through the middle of it
- into the sea. Most of their buildings are of a rag-stone, blue, not
- very durable. The duke of Monmouth landed at this place just by the
- pier with only twelve men: many of his party were executed on the spot
- afterwards, their limbs hung up in the town. Before that time the duke
- of Tuscany came here on shore in his visit to Britain. This is called Lime-Regis.</p>
-
- <p>Here entering Dorsetshire, I journeyed along the coast, in view of
- the ocean, and Portland isle growing more and more distinct, till
- I came to Bridport, a large town upon a little river. Ascending a
- high hill, I found myself upon the great downs of chalk like those
- at Salisbury, and, much to my surprize, infinitely fuller of Celtic
- barrows than your lordship’s celebrated plains. What matters of that
- sort I discovered shall be referred to another discourse. A little
- north of Bridport I found the great <span class="sidenote smcap">Icening-street.</span>Icening-street of the Romans going
- to Dorchester, which I accompanied with no small pleasure. I imagine
- it goes a little farther up the country than I had travelled, and
- hereabouts may properly be said to begin, probably meeting the Foss
- at <em>Moridunum</em>. The road from <em>Moridunum</em> westward through
- Exeter I think ought not to be denominated either from the one or the
- <span class="pagenum" id="Page_161">161</span>other, because of a different direction, which with reasonable
- allowance I esteem essential: but this road we are upon, which is the
- parallel and sister to the Foss, from Seaton to Yarmouth in Norfolk,
- extends to the like quantity of 250 Roman miles. In this place it is
- called the Ridge-way, both as it rises in an artificial ridge, and as
- it takes a high ridge all the way between here and Dorchester, having
- many valleys on both sides. The composition of the road is wholly
- of flints gathered off the lands, or taken from near the surface:
- these were laid in a fine bank, and so covered with turf. As I road
- along I found it frequently makes great curves to avoid passing over
- valleys, and industriously keeps on the highest ground, and commands
- the prospect of the country every where: it goes to <span class="sidenote smcap">Aggerdon.</span>Eggardon hill, as
- they tell me, north of Bridport; and here I suppose is a camp, whence
- the whole hundred is denominated: whether from this camp, or from
- this road, it is plain the old Latin word is retained, <em>agger</em>;
- therefore <em>aggerdon</em>, as it ought to be wrote, is the hill
- intrenched, or the down where the high road runs.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_161_1">
- <div class="plateno"><i>76</i></div>
- <img src="images/i_161_1.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="col50">
- <div><b>Prospect of Lyme 21 Aug. 1723.<br><span class="small">LONDINIS.</span></b></div>
- </div>
- <div class="col50">
- <div class="fleft">
- <ol class="inline left small alpha mt0">
- <li><i>Where the Duke of Monmouth Landed</i></li>
- <li><i>Portland</i></li>
- <li><i>The Peer.</i></li>
- </ol>
- </div>
- <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div>
- </div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp68 mb4" id="i_161_2">
- <div class="plateno"><i>77</i></div>
- <div><b><span class="smcap">Dvrnovaria</span><br><i class="small">Aug. 22. 1723</i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_161_2.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_161_3">
- <div class="plateno"><i>78</i></div>
- <div><b><i class="small">Aug<sup>st</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.5em;">:</span> 22. 1723</i><br><i>Prospect of Dorchester from the Amphitheater.</i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_161_3.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <p>The Icening-street derives its name not from beginning, but ending, at
- the Iceni, <i lang="la">via ad Icenos</i>. They say hereabouts it was cast up
- in a night’s time by the devil, referring to a supernatural agent the
- effect of Roman wisdom and industry. It enters the city of Dorchester
- by the north of Winterburn at West-gate. In divers places they have
- mended it where wore out, by a small slip of chalk and flints, with a
- shameful and degenerate carelessness; so that we may well pronounce the
- Romans worked with shovels, the moderns with tea-spoons: besides, it
- is mostly inclosed and obstructed with perpetual gates across it, to
- the great hindrance of travellers, to whom public ways ought to be laid
- open and free; and the authors of such nusances may well be declared
- sacrilegious. An endless fund of Celtic as well as Roman inquiries
- hereabouts, and no where less regarded.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Durnovaria.</div>
-
- <p>Dorchester, the Roman <em>Durnovaria</em>, meaning the passage over
- the river, is a good regular town, standing conformable to the four
- cardinal points, with the river on its north side: <span class="sidenote">TAB. LXXVII.</span>it had four gates
- in the middle of each side, was encompassed with a strong wall and
- ditch, if not two; for so it seems, though now levelled into arable, to
- which the inhabitants hereabout are extremely prone. On the west side
- great part of the old Roman wall is standing, twelve foot thick, made
- of rag-stone, laid side by side and obliquely, then covered over with
- very strong mortar: the next course generally leans the contrary way:
- now and then three horizontal ones for binding, for much flint is used
- withal. I saw the foundation of it in a saw-pit laid upon the solid
- chalk: it is yet twelve foot high, broke through and battered every
- where, as if the sight of it was obnoxious: this is a strong manner of
- building, and very expeditious. Much more of this wall remained within
- memory. It would surprise one to think why the very ruins of it should
- be pulled down, which must be done with great labour, and frequently
- a mud wall erected in its place. The foundations appear quite round
- the town; but eastward a street is built upon it, and the ditch filled
- up: it is still called The Walls; for that way the town is swelled out
- into a considerable village, with a church and handsome tower, called
- Fordington, corruptly Farington. Here are three churches in the town
- beside it. <span class="sidenote">TAB. LXXVIII.</span>On the south and west side, without the walls, a handsome
- walk of trees is planted, looking pleasantly into the fields; but the
- sort of them being common sycamores, are incommodious by harbouring
- flies. The winding of the river on the north spoils the square of the
- town that way; and there is an <em>area</em> of a castle, out of the
- ruins of which the grey friers built their<span class="pagenum" id="Page_162">162</span> convent: but now all the
- works are wholly obliterated, religious and military. The banks of the
- river here are steep, for the town stands on high ground. Beyond the
- river are meadows and warm sandy lands; on this side, the fine chalky
- downs, pleasant for riding, and profitable in excellent grain. The air
- must needs be wholesome and pure, the climate warm, and a sufficient
- distance from the sea; so that we need not wonder if the Romans were
- fond of this place. The level of the old city was much lower than the
- present; for antiquities, which are found in great number, always
- lie deep. Some farmers were levelling another great barrow; but the
- people of Fordington rose in arms and prevented them with a laudable
- animosity. All this land is of the prince’s fee. I took notice of a
- particularity in the stone they use here: it is fetched from a quarry
- southward in the way to Weymouth; a flag-stone, rising in large
- dimensions, but not very thick: the superfice of it is curiously and
- regularly indented or waved, like a mat made of cables, and that very
- regularly: it much resembles the face of the sands upon the sea shore,
- just after the tide is gone off: it is very convenient for paving, and
- those natural undulations prevent slipperiness, being nevertheless
- level enough: they make fences for their grounds with it in many
- places, setting them up edgewise in a pretty method. The Roman money
- dug up here are called <em>dorn-pennies</em>, or king Dor’s money: the
- reverend Mr. Place, living here, showed me a great collection of them.
- Much <i lang="la">opus tessellatum</i> has been found. As this town, so Wareham
- below from its ford derives its name. In Lincolnshire we call them
- still <em>warths</em>.</p>
-
- <p>From Dorchester many Roman roads disperse themselves, beside the
- Icening-street, passing directly over the meadows to Walton: one goes
- by the amphitheatre southward to Weymouth; another by Poundbury,
- Stretton, to Yeovil and Ischalis; another probably to Wareham.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Poundbury</span> <i>a</i> Ro. <i>Camp</i>.</div>
-
- <p>Poundbury, I am intirely persuaded, was a camp of Vespasian’s, when
- he was busy hereabouts in the conquest of the <em>Belgæ</em>, therefore
- ancienter than the adjacent Roman city: the situation, the bulk, and
- the manner of it, so much resembling that by Ambsbury, engages me into
- that sentiment: it stands half a mile west of Dorchester, upon the
- brink of the river, which is very steep, in form square: the rampart
- high, but the ditch inconsiderable, except at the angle by the river;
- the reason is, because standing on high ground, they dug the earth
- clear away before it, and threw it intirely into a <em>vallum</em>; so
- that its height and steepness, wherein its strength consists, is the
- same as if a regular ditch was made in level ground. The chief entrance
- was on the south side: there seems likewise to have been an entrance
- next the river, but made with great art; for a narrow path is drawn
- all along between the edge of the precipice and the <em>vallum</em>,
- so that it was absolutely impossible to force an entry that way:
- beside, I observe, beyond the camp, for a long way, a small trench is
- cut upon the said edge, which seems designed to prevent the ascent
- of cavalry, if they should pass the river: the ground of the camp
- rises in the middle, as was usual among the Romans in their choice.
- There is a <em>tumulus</em> too, which I imagine is Celtic, and extant
- before the camp was made: this levelled a little might serve for the
- <em>prætorium</em>. A very good prospect from hence all around. The name
- is taken from its inclosure as a pound; for here they call a circle of
- stones round a <em>tumulus</em>, a pound.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Maiden Castle.</span> <i>a</i> Ro. <i>Camp</i>.</div>
-
- <p>The other camp, called Maiden Castle, was undoubtedly the <em>Æsiiva</em>
- of the Durnovarian garrison:<a id="FNanchor_134" href="#Footnote_134" class="fnanchor">[134]</a> it is of a vast extent, and
- prodigiously strong, <span class="pagenum" id="Page_163">163</span>apparently of much later date than the
- foregoing, its manner savouring of inferior times of the empire:
- it has every where a double ditch of extraordinary depth, and a
- double rampire, in some places treble or more: it takes in the whole
- summit of a great hill: within it seems as if two camps, a ditch and
- <em>vallum</em> running across, with each its entry of very perplexed
- work; several ditches with cross entries lapping over one another, as
- we may well express it; especially westward, where their number may be
- affirmed half a score. Certainly, for healthful air and prospect, a
- most delightful place;</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza" lang="la">
- <div class="i0"><i>Heic Veneris vario florentia serta decore,</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Purpureo campos quæ pingit avena colore.</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Hinc auræ dulces, hinc suavis spiritus agri.</i> <span class="smcap fright">Virg.</span></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">and, for sight of barrows, I believe not to be equalled in the
- world; for they reach ten miles. What further remains to be said of
- Dorchester, is the noble amphitheatre, of which your lordship first
- gave me the hint; therefore most justly are you intitled to the
- following description of it.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp68 mb4" id="i_163">
- <div class="plateno"><i>61</i></div>
- <div><b>VINDOMA. <i class="small">4 Aug. 1722</i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_163.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley Designavit.</i></div>
- <figcaption>Peritura Moenia Stylo renovavit <i>Ger. Vander Gucht</i>.</figcaption>
- </figure>
-
- <h3><i>Of the</i> ROMAN AMPHITHEATRE <i>at</i> Dorchester.</h3>
-
- <p class="drop-cap">THERE was no kind of civil edifice, or public work, more frequent among
- the Romans, in Italy or the conquered provinces, than such as related
- to sports and games; for that brave and wise people both judged and
- found that method well calculated to bring over the nations to their
- own language and customs, being agreeable contrivances that seemed
- rather pleasure and delight than compulsion. Such were theatres,
- circs, amphitheatres, <em>stadia</em>, and the like. There were three
- amphitheatres in the city of Rome; that of Vespasian, the Castrense,
- and of Statilius Taurus: and, though we find them not so particularly
- taken notice of elsewhere in historians, yet we behold the things
- themselves, whose immense bulk and weighty materials have generally so
- long out-faced time and weather. We may affirm, there was scarce any
- colony or free city, of considerable note, in their extensive empire,
- that wanted these places of public pastime; and scarce any province
- now, where their footsteps at least are not visible, and many almost
- intire, particularly what we are now treating upon, amphitheatres:
- yet I believe it will appear a novelty to most people, when we shall
- talk of such curious antiquities in Britain. <span class="sidenote">TAB. LXI. XCVII.</span>But since this time
- twelve-months, I have seen three, one at Silchester, another at
- Richborough castle in Kent, and this at Dorchester in Dorsetshire. I
- have been told of one with six tire of seats, three mile off Redruth
- in Cornwall. Sir Christopher Wren is the first person that I know of
- who gave this hint of inquiry, in discovering this, many years ago,
- in his journeys to the isle of Portland, when he began to build St.
- Paul’s cathedral. Great pity it is that he did not take an exact
- description of it at that time, when in greater perfection, before
- the gallows were removed hither by an unlucky humour of the sheriff;
- since when the parapet at top is on that side much beaten down, by the
- trampling of men and horses at executions; but especially because his
- great skill might have done it exact justice, and by means of his pen
- it might have shared in the duration of his works. In defect of such
- illustration, I hope the reader will accept of my mean endeavours to
- preserve so valuable a piece of architecture, which, notwithstanding
- the damage above mentioned, and that the <em>area</em> of it has been
- ploughed up these many years, will still give a spectator a fine notion
- in the structures of this sort abroad, deservedly<span class="pagenum" id="Page_164">164</span> the admiration of
- travellers; and will present a person of understanding, the pleasure of
- observing the noble and great genius of the Romans in every production
- of their hands. Nor does the meanness of its materials debase, but
- rather inhance, its value and its art; for, though less costly and
- lasting than stone and marble, of which others are generally built, yet
- for the same reason less liable to rapine, and the covetous humour of
- such as plunder them for other uses: therefore I believe, in the main,
- it is as perfect as most abroad, if not so alluring to the eye; whence
- we may suppose it has so long escaped common observation, though close
- by a great town and road.</p>
-
- <p>An amphitheatre is properly a double theatre, or two theatres joined
- together. A theatre is a semicircle wherein are the seats of the
- spectators; the <em>apparatus</em> of the actors, or scenes, filling
- up the diameter before it. But if we would be more exact, we shall
- observe, it is half as long again as the <em>radius</em>; for they cut
- off the fourth part of a circle, then the rest became the form of their
- theatres. Now two such as these joined together, throwing away the
- scenic part, constituted an amphitheatre; taking its name from circular
- vision, and because the seats were continued quite round, the faces of
- the people being all directed to the centre of its excentricity: so its
- use required, different from that of the theatre, where the company
- look all one way toward the stage. But then, as Lipsius takes notice
- in discoursing upon this topic, the lines, at the ends where they are
- conjoined, must be drawn outward a little, approaching more to strait
- lines, than it becomes a true oval, well expressed by Cassiodorus;
- “for, (says he) the <em>area</em> includes the figure of an egg, which
- affords due space for combatants, and more advantage to spectators to
- see every thing by its long curvity or relaxed circle.” These were
- not put in practice at Rome till the end of the commonwealth, and
- appropriated to the hunting and fighting of wild-beasts, to gladiators
- and the like; and at last to sea engagements, represented in gallies
- floating upon the water, which they introduced for that purpose.
- First of all, they made them <em>pro tempore</em> of timber, being two
- theatres, each fixed upon a wonderful <em>axis</em>, and so contrived,
- that when they pleased they could turn both together, with all the
- people on their seats, and make an amphitheatre; of which Pliny, xxxv.
- 15. speaks with a note of astonishment, as it really was. This was
- done by C. Curio, one of Cæsar’s party. It is worth while to read the
- great naturalist’s descant upon it. This I suppose gave occasion to
- the building of regular amphitheatres, of which Cæsar made the first
- in the <em>Campus Martius</em>, but of wood, when he was dictator. The
- first of stone was erected in Augustus his time, by Statilius Taurus,
- in the place of the former, which was the only one till Vespasian,
- whose work was the monstrous <em>Colissæum</em>, but finished by his son
- Titus. This has afforded materials for many public buildings in Rome,
- and still boasts its immense ruins, as one of the greatest prodigies of
- the imperial city.</p>
-
- <p>Vitruvius mentions nothing of amphitheatres; therefore he probably
- published his book before that of Taurus was built: as for Cæsar’s, it
- belonged not to masonry, being carpenter’s work; in which he was a very
- great master, as in every thing else: so that we must form our notions
- of these things from the works themselves, and the ruins that time
- has spared. The parts of an amphitheatre are these: the <em>arena</em>
- or space within, the scene of action; the <em>euripus</em>, or river
- that generally encompassed the verge of it; the <em>podium</em>, or
- parapet at bottom; the <em>itinera</em>, or <em>viæ</em>, which were the
- walks between certain series of seats; the <em>ascensus</em>, steps or
- stairs; the <em>pulpita<span class="pagenum" id="Page_165">165</span></em> or <em>tribunalia</em>, a sort of covered
- chair of state, where the emperor, his legate, the prætor or chief
- magistrate of a city, sat; the <em>cathedræ</em>, where the senators,
- foreign ambassadors, and great personages, sat; the <em>gradus</em>, or
- common seats; the <em>præcinctiones</em>, which I suppose balustrades;
- the <em>aditus</em> or <em>vomitoria</em>, being the passages from the
- stairs withinside to the seats, a metaphorical name, from the people
- pouring themselves through them with violence; the <em>cunei</em>, which
- were the space of seats comprehended between two of those passages, so
- called from their wedge-like shape; the <em>porticus</em>, or galleries
- within, partly for magnificence, and partly for convenience: all these
- particulars are easily apprehended from inspection of schemes and
- sections of these works in many authors. Some of them could not, others
- need not to be in our work; therefore I shall occasionally enlarge
- upon those pertinent to this subject, as they fall in our way in the description.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp75 mb4" id="i_165">
- <div class="plateno"><i>50</i></div>
- <div><b><i>The Geometrical Groundplot of the Roman Amphitheatre at Dorchester<br>
- <span class="small">Aug. 22. 1723.</span></i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_165.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley design<sup>r</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <p class="clear"><span class="sidenote">TAB. LXXVII.</span>The amphitheatre at Dorchester is situate on a plain in the open
- fields about a quarter of a mile (being just 300 of my paces) or 1500
- foot south-west from the walls of the town, delicately ascending all
- the way, close by the Roman road running from thence to Weymouth. The
- vulgar call it Maumbury, but have no notion of its purpose, though
- it is a common walk for the inhabitants, and the terrace at top is a
- noted place of rendezvous, as affording a pleasant circular walk, and
- a prospect of the town and wide plain of corn fields all around, much
- boasted of by the inhabitants for most excellent grain. Westward of the
- town we see the Roman camp called Poundbury, and southward the most
- famous one Maiden castle, both before described. More southerly all the
- hill-tops, as far as the eye reaches, are covered with an incredible
- number of Celtic barrows. It stands upon the very edge of that part of
- the fields which declines gently northward, or toward the town, upon a
- chalk, and which without doubt at first was perfect down, like that of
- Salisbury plain, or the neighbouring downs in the way to Bridport. One
- may in fancy imagine the beauty of its prospect, and the pleasantness
- of the walk hither upon that fine carpet, when all was in its first
- perfection; but at present it is ploughed up to the very skirt of the
- amphitheatre, both within and without: <span class="sidenote">TAB. LXXVIII.</span>so foolishly greedy are the
- country people of an inch of ground, that they have levelled several
- barrows lately in the neighbourhood, which cost more than the spot they
- covered will pay in fifty years. This work of ours is raised of solid
- chalk upon the level, without any ditch about it. I have endeavoured to
- delineate, as exactly as I could by mensuration, the true and original
- ground-plot thereof, or architectonic design upon which it is formed,
- from what is left by the injuries of age, of the plough, of men and
- beasts; and that in its first and genuine scale the Roman foot, which
- is about an eleventh part less than ours. The <span class="sidenote">TAB. L.</span><a href="#i_165">plate N<sup>o</sup> 50</a>, represents
- the amphitheatre as covered with the <em>subsellia</em>, and as in its
- primitive perfection; for we may well suppose age has diminished it on
- all dimensions: and in truth it requires a great deal of thought and
- judgement to attempt to measure it. It is obvious thence to observe,
- in the general, its conformity with other works of this sort abroad,
- as far as its different materials will allow; and the great judgement
- of the architect in varying his scheme thereto, so as fully to answer
- the proposed end. It is to be noted that half this work is above,
- and half below the surface of the ground, as<span class="sidenote">TAB. LIII.</span> visible in a section;
- so that great part of the matter was dug out of the <em>cavea</em> in
- the middle; for it is a solid bed of chalk, and the rest fetched from
- elsewhere. I believe the method of building it, was to join solid chalk
- cut square like stones, and that mortar made of burnt chalk was run
- into the joints; and probably all the outside was neatly<span class="pagenum" id="Page_166">166</span> laid with
- scantlings of the same, but with the natural turf on: so that it is not
- much inferior in strength to those of stone, though infinitely less
- expensive; but for use and convenience there is very little difference;
- and as to beauty, as far as relates to the seats, and what was visible
- on the inside, our work no doubt was very handsome, and even now is a
- very pleasant sight. It is observed of most amphitheatres abroad, that
- they are placed without the cities for wholesomness, and upon elevated
- ground for benefit of the air, and perflation; a thing much recomended
- for theatres in Vitruvius; as that of Bourdeaux, 400 paces without
- the city. Besides, this is very artfully set upon the top of a plain,
- declining to the north-east; whereby the rays of the sun, falling upon
- the ground hereabouts, are thrown off to a distance by reflection, and
- the upper end of the amphitheatre, for the major part of the day, has
- the sun behind the spectators.</p>
-
- <p>When you stand in the centre of the entrance, it opens itself with all
- the grandeur that can be imagined: the jambs are wore away somewhat,
- and the plough encroaches on its verge every year, especially the
- cheeks below: never did I see corn growing, which of itself is an
- agreeable sight, with so much indignation as in this noble concavity,
- where once the <em>gens togata</em>, and majesty of imperial Rome, used
- to show itself. The conjugate, or shortest diameter externally, is to
- the longest as 4 to 5; that of the <em>area</em> within, as 2 to 3: this
- is the same proportion as of the amphitheatre at Lucca, which is 195
- <em>brachia</em> in length, 130 broad: a <em>brachium</em> is about 23½ of
- our inches: it is 25 high. In ours therefore the two centres upon the
- transdiameter, or longest that form it, are 100 feet distant:
- the ends of the oval are struck with a <em>radius</em> of 60 feet set
- upon each of those centres. The centres that describe the side-lines
- are formed by setting off 85 feet on each side the diameter, from the
- centre of excentricity. Thus from these four centres only the whole
- is delineated, and that most easily and naturally; whence I suspect
- Desgodetz, in laying down his plot of the <em>Coliseum</em>, has without
- necessity employed no less than eight centres, which is an operation
- of great perplexity: but still we except the circle in the middle,
- which so remarkably distinguishes this from all other works, and which
- gives so great a beauty to the scheme: this is that artful contrivance
- supplying the place of portico’s, stair-cases, <em>vomitoria</em>, and
- all the costly work in the grander amphitheatres, for ready conveyance
- of the spectators in and out to their proper places: it is described
- from the common centre of the whole, and in the ground-plot is a
- true circle; but upon the place becomes a walk of eight foot broad,
- gradually ascending, from the ends upon the long diameter, to its
- highest elevation in the middle upon the short diameter, where it
- reaches half-way up the whole series of seats of the spectators, who
- marching hence distribute themselves therein from all sides without
- hurry and tumult. On the top is a terrace twelve feet broad at least,
- beside the parapet outwardly five feet broad, four high. There are
- three ways leading up to this; at the upper end of the work, over the
- cave, one; and one on each side upon the shortest diameter, going from
- the elevated part of the circular walk: horses very conveniently,
- several a-breast, may go upon this, and frequently do, ascending by
- the ruin of the cave, but not on the outward steep. The parapet is now
- three or four foot high, but much ruined on that side next the gallows
- since last year, at an execution: not only so, but I saw a mixen heap
- laid under it on that side; and some vile fellow had been digging down
- part of the amphitheatre to lay among it for compost. There is some
- enormity, if one examines this work in mathematical strictness without
- proper judgement: because it stands on<span class="pagenum" id="Page_167">167</span> a declivity, some parts
- of the out-side are higher than others, not only as to the same side,
- but as to the same part on different sides: the plain on which it
- stands, declines to the north-east: hence the outer side of the work
- is higher there than in other places; therefore in my sections and
- ground-plot I endeavour to reduce it to a medium, and the measure which
- seems to have been the primary intent of the architect.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_167_1">
- <div class="plateno"><i>52</i></div>
- <div><b><i>A view of Dorchester Amphitheatre from the South West.</i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_167_1.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley Del. Aug. 1723.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_167_2">
- <div class="plateno"><i>53</i></div>
- <div><b><i>The Side View of Dorchester Amphitheater.</i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_167_2.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_167_3">
- <div class="plateno"><i>51</i></div>
- <div><b><i>A View of Dorchester Amphitheatre from the Entrance.</i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_167_3.jpg" alt="">
- </figure>
-
- <p>The cave, or receptacle of the gladiators, wild beasts, &amp;c. I suppose
- to have been at the upper end, under the ascent to the terrace, being
- vaults under that part of the body of the work: whether they were of
- the same chalk, or timber, or whether they were arched with brick
- or stone, or what other matter, I cannot say; but the ruin thereof
- seems to be the reason of the present deformity at that end; so that
- it is not easy to guess at its original profile. We may observe that
- the parapet and terrace go back there, and, taking a new sweep, fall
- beyond the line of the outer oval; for two reasons, as I conceive:
- 1st, Because by that means there is a greater length obtained for the
- ascent to the terrace, which makes it more gradual and easy: 2dly,
- Thereby more space is procured for the apartments of the prisoners
- under ground. <span class="sidenote">TAB. LIII.</span>By the section lengthwise, it is easily understood that
- I suppose a passage quite through, or subterraneous gallery upon that
- end of the longest diameter,<span class="sidenote">TAB. XLII. 2d Vol.</span> under the ascent to the terrace, from
- the out-side into the <em>area</em>: this must open at the bottom of
- the <em>podium</em>, as was practised in other works of like nature,
- with a squarish door, as Varro tells us, <em>de re rustica</em>. “The
- door (says he) ought to be low and narrow, of that sort which they
- call a <em>cochlea</em>, as is wont to be in the cave where the bulls
- are shut up for fight.” The entrance to this place might be from
- without-side the amphitheatre: here is no want of room for the door
- within; for the level of the <em>area</em> was at least twelve feet
- lower than the <em>podium</em>, like our pit at the play-houses; and it
- is probable there was a descent of the whole level this way, to draw
- off the rain into some subterraneous passage: the <em>podium</em> in the
- <em>castrensian</em> amphitheatre is monstrously high. Our <em>area</em>,
- no doubt, is exceedingly elevated by manuring, ploughing, and ruins:
- yet it preserves a dish-like concavity, through innumerable injuries;
- for the descent from the entrance is very great, and you go down as
- into a pit. I conjecture the middle part of the <em>area</em> is now
- ten foot lower than the level of the field: but the field itself,
- especially about the entrance, is much lowered by ploughing, because
- the end of the circular walk there, which should be even with the
- ground, is a good deal above it. The dens and caves of the wild beasts
- at the great circ in Rome were only of earth and wood, till Claudius
- the emperor built them of marble. This ruin at the upper end is very
- considerable; for it has so filled the <em>arena</em> thereabouts, that
- the cattle plough up to the very <em>præcinctio</em>. On the out-side is
- a large round tumour, a considerable way beyond the exterior verge,
- and regular in figure, which certainly has been somewhat appertaining
- to the work: I could wish that a careful person had liberty of digging
- into it. Moreover, this <em>podium</em> had a parapet of earth, if not
- a balustrade, as was usual in others: behind this, upon the lowermost
- seat, was the place of the senators and chief persons, who often had
- chairs or cushions: this was the best place for seeing and hearing, as
- being nearest the <em>arena</em>; whence Juvenal says,</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza" lang="la">
- <div class="i0">—————— <i>generosior &amp; Marcellis,</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Et Catulis Paulique minoribus et Fabiis &amp;</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Omnibus ad podium spectantibus</i>.———</div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">So Suetonius, in <cite>Augusto</cite>, says, the senate made an order, that
- the first or lowest seat at public spectacles should be left for them:
- probably this was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_168">168</span> broader than any other seat, with a greater space
- between the <em>podium</em> and next seat, for more ease. The chair of
- state for the <em>prætor</em> was on one side, and probably another
- opposite to it for the emperor, or his legate, which was reserved
- empty, for state, in their absence; or for the <em>editor</em> of the
- shows, who was generally thus distinguished: and it is remarkable
- that a little prominence is still left in these very places. These
- were set in the middle of the <em>podium</em>, on each side, upon the
- shortest diameter, and were covered with canopies like a tabernacle.
- This <em>podium</em> had, for greater safety, grates, nets, and lattice
- work of iron, or more costly metal, supported by pillars, and the like:
- beside, there were rollers of wood or ivory length-wise, which hindered
- the beasts from climbing up, by their turning round, as is particularly
- described by Calpurnius. And, moreover, in greater amphitheatres,
- there was a ditch full of water under it, called <em>euripus</em>, first
- introduced by Julius Cæsar. In the early times of these buildings,
- the people sat all together promiscuously; but after the emperors,
- the places were distinguished according to the degrees of quality,
- senators, knights, or common people. The knights seats were next to the
- senators, fourteen deep in number; so that <i lang="la">gradus quatuordecim</i>
- became a phrase for the equestrian order. We may suppose these two
- degrees filled all the seats in our amphitheatre under the circular
- walk or ascent. The common people possessed the remainder, or the whole
- concavity above the circular walk, taking the best places as they came
- first: but the uppermost seats were reserved particularly for the
- women; and one reason of their distance was, I suppose, because the
- gladiators were naked. And that no routs and confusions should disturb
- the order of these solemnities, there were proper officers appointed,
- that took care none should presume to sit out of the seats suitable to
- his degree.</p>
-
- <p>I imagine the terrace at top in our work was designed for the men
- of arms: for they are by no means to be excluded, seeing one of the
- primary intents of these diversions was to inure them, as well as the
- people, to blood and murder. Hence, before they went upon any great
- expedition, or foreign war, these feasts and butcheries were publicly
- celebrated: and in my opinion, the two rising plots, that are squarish
- on each side upon the shortest diameter, were for the officers. These
- are above the level of the walk, or terrace, and might possibly have a
- tent set upon them for that purpose. I call them pavilions: they are
- of a handsome turn, and capable each of holding two dozen of people
- commodiously: their side-breadth is fifteen foot; their length, i. e.
- north and south, twenty: they are somewhat nearer the upper end, not
- standing precisely upon the shortest diameter, and four foot above the
- level of the terrace. I considered with care that seeming irregularity
- of the terrace on both sides the lower end; for it is higher within
- side than without, yet so as to produce no ill effect below, either
- within or without, but the contrary. I find it is a master-piece of
- skill, and am surprised that it has not been more defaced in so long
- time. The matter is this: the work standing on a declining plain, this
- artifice was necessary to render its appearance regular; for when you
- stand in the centre within-side, the whole circuit of the terrace
- seems and is really of one level: but on the out-side the verge of
- the north-easterly part is sloped off gradually toward the entrance
- where the declivity is, conformably with it; whence the whole exterior
- contour appears of an equal height too: and this could not otherwise
- have been obtained, since within it was necessary to keep a true level,
- without regard to the outer plain. As to the seats, which I have
- supposed in <a href="#i_165">plate 50</a>, they were contrived to be twice as broad as<span class="pagenum" id="Page_169">169</span>
- high: their height was but a small matter more than a foot, and their
- breadth not above two feet and a half; half that space being allotted
- for the seat of the lowermost, and the other half for the feet of the
- uppermost. The declivity of these <em>gradus</em> is justly made within
- an angle of thirty degrees, the third part of a quadrant: but this is
- more exact at the ends; for in the middle, or towards the shortest
- diameter over the elevated part of the circular walk, the upper
- <em>series</em> of seats has a somewhat more obtuse angle; the reason
- of which is obvious, to overlook the breadth of the circular walk.
- This is most plainly seen in the sections, and is done with judgement,
- because by that means the upper edge of the amphitheatre is in a right
- line with the declivity. As to the disposition of these seats, their
- method is as new as curious: it is so contrived, that the circular
- walks cut the whole breadth in two equal parts upon the shortest
- diameter; therefore an equal number of seats is above and under it:
- hence the middle seat at each extremity is in the same level with the
- elevated part of the walk. Though these seats in other amphitheatres
- abroad were made of stone or marble, yet they were generally covered
- with boards, because more wholesome; and that sometimes covered with
- cushions for the better sort. Dion Cassius tells us, this piece of
- nicety was first brought in by Caligula, who gave cushions to the
- senators seats, that they might not sit upon the bare boards, and
- <em>Thessalic</em> caps to keep them from the sun. The vulgar had mats
- made of reeds. I think we may well infer from hence, that the seats in
- our amphitheatre were covered too with plank, if not made wholly of
- it. The <em>præcinctiones</em>, or, as Vitruvius sometimes calls them in
- Greek, <em>diazomata</em>, which commentators make a difficulty about,
- to me seem only balustrades, because he orders them to be as high as
- the breadth of the walk along them: beside that upon the <em>podium</em>,
- here might possibly be one upon the inner edge of the terrace which
- separated between the soldiers and the women.</p>
-
- <p>The <em>area</em> in the middle was commonly called <em>arena</em>, from
- the sand it was strown over with, for the better footing of the
- combatants, and to drink up the blood: this again by intervals was
- fresh strown, or raked over, to prevent slipperiness; for if, instead
- thereof, the pavement had been brick or stone, it would have proved
- highly inconvenient. Hence this word became a common appellation
- of an amphitheatre, and most of those beyond sea are still called
- <em>arena</em>. As for the present name of <em>Maumbury</em>, perhaps it
- comes corrupted from the old British word <em>mainge</em>, signifying
- <em>scamnum</em>, <em>scabellum</em>, the same as our bench, from the
- multitude of seats therein; the remains of which in former times might
- very plausibly give occasion to such an appellation. Or is it not
- equivalent to the heathen <em>bury</em>, from the memory of these pagan
- sports therein celebrated? as our ancestors used to call heathenism by
- the general name of <em>maumetry</em>, corrupted from <em>mahometism</em>:
- of this my friend Robert Stephens, esq; J. C. first gave me the hint.
- Thus in Trevisa’s translation of <em>Polychronicon</em>, XIV. 18. p. 175.
- “Julianus had commaunded that crysten knyghtes sholde do sacrefyce
- to <em>mawmettes</em>,” meaning heathen idols. Or is it from the
- old-fashioned games of <em>mummings</em>, so frequent among us, derived
- from <em>Mimus</em> or <em>Momus</em>? The <em>Mimi</em> were frequently
- introduced into all shows, at theatres, amphitheatres, circs, &amp;c. Or
- perhaps in the same sense it is to be understood as in Oxfordshire
- they call land <em>maum</em>, consisting of a mixture of white clay and
- chalk, Plot’s hist. p. 240. The <em>area</em> was originally about 140
- feet diameter the shortest way, 220 the longest; wherein it falls not
- much short of the compass of the most considerable ones. The famous
- amphitheatre at Verona<span class="pagenum" id="Page_170">170</span> but 233, and 136; and the vast <em>Colisæum</em>
- at Rome is but 263, 165; but, I believe, as reckoned by a larger
- measure, the French foot. That at Perigusium is less than ours, being
- 180 one way, 120 the other. I find the amphitheatre at Silchester is of
- the same dimension with ours here, and built of the same materials and
- form, as far as I could discern, but more ruinous.</p>
-
- <p>These places, though of absolute necessity open at top, where usually
- sheltered from rain in some measure, and from the sun effectually, by
- great sail-cloths spread along the top from masts and ropes, which
- were managed by the soldiers of the marine affairs, who were more
- skilful in such work: a fashion first invented by Q. Catulus when he
- was Ædile. The places where these poles were let through the cornices
- of the upper order, and rested on corbels, are still visible in the
- great amphitheatres. This probably was done in ours by masts and poles
- fastened into the ground without-side, and leaning along the outside
- bank; which would give them a very advantageous turn in hanging over
- the top of the theatre; for the slope of the <em>agger</em> externally
- is with an angle of forty five degrees, being half a right angle, the
- most natural and commodious for beauty and force to oppose against
- the side weight: or they might erect them in the solid work on the
- top of the terrace, seeing it has abundantly strength enough. But in
- the particularity of these modes no certainty is at this time to be
- expected. However, by the situation of the place, the architect has
- taken great care, according to Vitruvius his rules about theatres, to
- obviate the inconvenience of the sun-beams as well as possible; and
- that in three respects. 1st, As he has set it upon a plain declining
- northwards, and upon the higher part of the plain; upon the very tip
- where the declivity begins. 2dly. By taking the bearing of it exactly,
- I found the opening, or entrance thereto, is to the north-east precise:
- hence it is very plain and easy to conceive, that from nine o’clock
- in the morning till sun-set, in the longest day of the year, the sun
- will be on the backs of the spectators, upon the upper or south-west
- half of the building; which contrivance is worthy of notice: and that
- this is not done upon account of the city of Dorchester lying that way,
- but as a thing essential, is plain from the like in the amphitheatre
- of Silchester, which opens upon the same point, though directly the
- farthest from the city. 3dly, The breadth of the opening or entrance,
- level with the surface, and opposite to the falling beams of the sun,
- must produce a very great rebatement of the heat thereof, reflected
- into this vast concave, and prove a convenience the other amphitheatres
- are wholly destitute of: and this purpose is so much regarded, that,
- if we consider it with a scrupulous eye, we shall find that the
- western side of this upper half of the terrace and the pavilion there
- is somewhat broader, and nearer the upper end of the long diameter,
- than the eastern. In the midway of the terrace between the pavilions
- on both sides and the <em>cavea</em>, are still to be seen two round
- holes, which seem to be places where they set poles to oppose against
- those others leaning on the out-side that bear the sail-cloths. The
- section or profile of this work is contrived with exquisite judgement
- in proportioning its parts; for the eye of a man standing at the most
- retired part of the terrace next the parapet is in the right line of
- the declivity within side; of a man standing in the middle of it, his
- eye sees the heads of the spectators sitting under him on the upper
- <em>subsellia</em>, even with the line of the circular walk; the eye of
- him standing on the edge of the terrace, sees the heads of those on the
- lowermost <em>subsellia</em>, even with the edge of the <em>podium</em>,
- and commands the whole <em>area</em>: therefore we may<span class="pagenum" id="Page_171">171</span> conclude none
- were permitted to stand on the circular walk, for that would have
- obstructed the sight, but it was left open for passage. I took notice
- before, that on both sides, the terrace at the top of the lower half
- seemed to me narrower than that at the other and principal half:
- whether so originally, and for sake of any advantage to be had in this
- respect, and that the meanest of the people stood here, or that it has
- happened to have been more wasted away since, I cannot be positive;
- but I judged it not material enough to be regarded in the scheme: for,
- in the main, I found the breadth of the side of the work, or solid,
- taken upon the ground-plot, is equal to half the longest diameter
- of the <em>area</em>, or a fourth of the whole longest diameter. Its
- perpendicular altitude, from the top of the terrace to the bottom of
- the <em>area</em>, is a fourth of the longest diameter of the <em>area</em>.</p>
-
- <p>In the middle of each side we may observe a <em>cuneus</em>, or parcel of
- the seats, of near thirty feet broad, just over the most elevated part
- of the circular work, and reaching up to the terrace, which swells out
- above the concavity of the whole, and answering to the rising ground
- in the middle of the terrace, which we call the pavilions, and have
- assigned for the seats of the officers among the soldiery. This is upon
- the shortest diameter, and over the <em>tribunalia</em> of the emperor
- and prætor; and consequently cuts each side of the upper <em>series</em>
- of seats above the circular walk into two equal parts. I have guessed
- only at these reasons for it, which I leave to better judgements. One
- might possibly be, to give a greater beauty to the range of seats over
- the circular walk by its break, which is a thing not practised at all
- in other amphitheatres, unless we suppose this effect produced by their
- <em>vomitoria</em>: or is it not more necessary here, because of the
- circular walk, which causes the <em>series</em> of seats above them to
- be broader at the extremity than in the middle, and therein different
- from the aspect of common amphitheatres? Or was not this division
- useful in distinguishing the great length of that <em>series</em> into
- separate compartments for two different sort of plebeians? Or is it
- necessary to distribute the three orders of people; the senators under
- the circular walk to the <em>podium</em>, whose place in general was
- called <em>orchestra</em>; that half of the upper seats on the upper or
- south side of this protuberant part, to the equestrian order; that on
- the lower or north side, to the people or vulgar? But there seems to
- be another likely reason, that every seat here was divided into two
- (at least some part of it) in the nature of steps, as was practised
- in particular places of all other amphitheatres: and perhaps there
- were three of these ranges of steps, one in the middle, and one on
- each side: that in the middle was for the officers to ascend from the
- circular walk to their tribunals, or tents, set upon the raised part of
- the terrace, whilst the common soldiers went up by the ascent over the
- cave, at the upper end. The steps on each side led to the respective
- halves of the upper <em>series</em> of seats above the circular walk. All
- which uses to me appear convenient and necessary for ease, regularity,
- and decency. In the upper or south-west half of the internal slope have
- been some deformities, caused by the inner edge of the terrace in some
- places cut or fallen down, which spoils the curve a little: and, as the
- lower terraces diminish gradually from the pavilions to the entrance,
- that on the western end has received great damage over and above; for
- the inward verge of it has been thrown down intirely: as for that
- north-easterly half of the terrace, which we said was narrower, more
- exposed to the sun, and for that reason allotted to the last rabble,
- we leave them to scramble up with somewhat more labour over the whole
- <em>series</em> of the seats at that end, which we may reasonably judge
- were last filled by the spectators.</p>
-
- <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_172">172</span></p>
-
- <p>These noble buildings, which were of a fine invention, and well
- calculated for their uses, were most frequently called, from their
- hollow figure, <em>cavea</em>; of which there are many quotations to
- be had out of the old poets, and other writers: and originally it
- was inherent to theatres; in which sense commonly used by Cicero and
- others, but at length passed chiefly to amphitheatres, as the greater
- works. The matter of some was brick, as that near Trajecto in the
- Campania of Italy; another at Puteoli; others stone, and others solid
- marble; as that famous one at Capua, another at Athens, and that at
- Verona. The amphitheatre which is still in part to be seen at Pola in
- Istria, was of stone and wood too; for the whole frame of the seats
- was made of timber, the portico’s only, or external part, of stone.
- The wit of man could not find out a fitter scheme for commodiousness
- of seeing and hearing: and in some respect, I conceit, they had an eye
- to the form of their harps, fiddles, and such instruments of music,
- as modulate sounds in a roundish cavity: the oval turn thereof, and
- the solidity of the materials, had all the requisites of receiving and
- returning the vibrations of the air to greater advantage. Vitruvius
- advises, in this case, that the place, as well as the stuff, wherein
- these buildings are set, and of which they are composed, must not be
- what he calls <em>surd</em>, such as deaden the sound, but make smart
- repercussions, and in just space of time; which is of great consequence
- in the philosophy of echoes: for if the voice strike upon a solid
- that is not harmonious in its texture, that is, whose parts are not
- of a proper tone or tenseness, not consentaneous to the vibrations of
- musical notes; or if this solid be too near, or too far distant, so
- that it reverberates too quick, or too slow, as a room too little, or
- too great; all the main business of hearing and sounds is disturbed.
- Vitruvius is very large upon this head, to whom I refer the reader.
- Now I suppose the ancients learnt by experience and trial, as well
- as by reasoning upon the nature of things, that such a capacity and
- compass, and of such extent, was best for this end: whence we find,
- that all their amphitheatres are much about the same bulk, and executed
- upon nearly the same proportions. A thing of this kind deceives the
- eye without strict consideration; for it is bigger than it seems, and
- a person in the middle of it, to one upon the terrace, looks lesser
- than one would imagine. It is true indeed, that ours is not made of
- so solid materials as brick, stone or marble; but yet it is possible
- there may be as much an error in one extreme as the other, and nature
- affects a mediocrity. One shall scarce doubt that a <em>convallis</em>,
- or proper convexity between two mountains, will give as fine an echo
- as any artificial work that can be contrived. I can say, however, in
- favour of the subject we are upon, that in effect it has a very fine
- and agreeable sound, (as I purposely several times tried) and seems
- to want nothing of the compactness of matter, or closeness of the
- place, though doubtless much deficient in the original depth, which
- would improve it. An echo here is not to be expected, the return being
- too quick; but after the voice you hear a ringing, as of a brass pot,
- or bell; which shows the proportion well adjusted: and perhaps, if
- we consider the great numbers of the stair-cases and openings, or
- what they call <em>vomitoria</em>, in the other amphitheatres, for the
- people to come in and go out at, which are intirely wanting here; we
- may not be far to seek for the reason of it, or scruple thinking ours
- to be the better model: the sides being perfectly uniform, and free
- from those frequent apertures, seem better adapted for the rolling,
- concentring, and retorting the voice. It is not unlikely that some
- may think the great gap and discontinuity of our entrance an obstacle
- in the case; but to such I<span class="pagenum" id="Page_173">173</span> would propose a <em>quære</em>, Whether
- that single break, which bears so small a proportion to the whole, in
- account of those best skilled in the doctrine of <em>acoustics</em>, be
- not by far more inconsiderable in that point, than the multiplicity
- of those other passages which we see in all drawings of this kind?
- Or whether again it be not a real advantage to the sound? as is the
- hole in the sounding-board of a fiddle, harp, harpsichord, or the
- like instrument; or when two holes are made, as frequently; but, if
- there were twenty instead thereof, probably it would be injurious,
- though of less bulk when all put together. Perhaps the air intirely
- pent up in this great hollow, without any collateral aperture, may be
- obstructed in the varieties of its necessary motions and reflections,
- so as to delight the ear: and I must profess myself of this opinion,
- which seems confirmed by Nature’s abhorrence of such figures, in the
- constant outlets of valleys some way or other. It is certain, whatever
- effect the entrance has as to the sound, it must be highly useful in
- cooling the place, in admitting the breezes of the north-easterly air
- from over the meadows to refresh them; and the side of the opposite
- hill beyond the town, diversified with hedge-grows, presents a
- beautiful scene to the better spectators: nor is the present town
- deficient in contributing to the landscape: for, as you advance from
- the <em>arena</em> toward the entrance, the two handsome towers of the
- churches appear very agreeably at each cheek of the entrance.</p>
-
- <p>But we have reason to content ourselves with the plain matter of
- fact, and need not enter into a dispute, whether necessity or choice
- determined the Romans here to use the present materials, or whether the
- entrance was originally of the manner we see it: it is certain, that in
- all the places where I have seen these amphitheatres, the Roman walls
- that incompassed the towns are still left, built with ranges of brick,
- stone, flint, and indissoluble mortar; so that ignorance of building
- cannot be laid to their charge. Nor is this practice wholly confined
- to our island, and without parallel; for there is now in France an
- amphitheatre, not improperly to be reckoned of this sort, whereof
- Lipsius gives us a large account: it is at a place called Doveon, near
- Pont du sey, upon the river Loire, as you go from Anjou to Poictou; a
- place where the Druids are said to have had a seat: this is cut out
- of a mountain of stone, but of a very soft kind, and, I suppose, not
- much better than our chalk: it is not near so big as ours, and much
- inferior in beauty and convenience: here are chambers hewn out of the
- rock for the caves; and the <em>area</em> is but very small. The seats
- of the theatre of Bacchus at Athens are still visible, cut out of the
- natural rock. It is not much to be doubted, that in many places in
- France, and other provinces of the Roman empire, where the same chalk
- is the soil, there are such as ours, though as little regarded: and
- we may reasonably think, in the beginning of the commonwealth, before
- art, luxury, and magnificence had got to its highest pitch, that the
- Romans themselves were contented with such of grassy turf. The people
- of Rome originally stood at the games. Cicero, <em>de Amicit.</em> c.
- 7. says, <i lang="la">stantes plaudebant in re ficta</i>. So Tac. <em>Annal.</em>
- XIV. 20. “If you look back to customs of antiquity, the people stood
- at the shows; for if they had been accommodated with seats, they would
- have idled the whole day away at the theatre.” Valer. Max. XI. 4. says,
- “it was ordered by the senate, that no one should set benches for
- shows in the city, nor within a mile of it, or should see the games
- sitting, that the manly posture of standing, the peculiar note of the
- Roman nation, should be observed even at diversions.” If any one had
- rather think, that ours never had any seats, but that the people stood
- upon the plain<span class="pagenum" id="Page_174">174</span> grassy declivity, I shall not be ato it, and the
- rather because it is your lordship’s opinion: yet it seemed to me,
- viewing the sides very curiously, when the sun shone upon them with a
- proper light and shade, that I could see the very marks of the poles
- that lay upon the slopes, whereon the benches were fastened. Ovid,
- <i lang="la">de arte amandi</i>, speaking of theatres, says the seats were turf.</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza" lang="la">
- <div class="i0"><i>In gradibus sedet populus de cespite factis,</i></div>
- <div class="i2"><i>Qualibet hirsutas fronde tegente comas.</i></div>
- </div>
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0">On grassy seats of turf the people sate,</div>
- <div class="i0">And leaves of trees Thessalic caps supply.</div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">This of ours seems to be a better method than that in the amphitheatre
- at Pola; and, if it is readily owned much inferior to those at Rome,
- yet even those were exceeded by the noble Greek architects, especially
- by that most admirable theatre near the temple of Æsculapius in
- Epidaurus, of which Pausanias, an eye-witness of both, speaks <em>in
- argolicis</em>: “for, though it is not so big as some others, yet for
- the art of it, the nicety of its constituents, and for beauty, who dare
- contend with Polycletus, who was the architect of it?” says he.</p>
-
- <p>As it is not my intent to write a complete history of amphitheatres,
- or further than what is necessary to our present purpose, and to give
- a clear understanding of our work; so I forbear saying any thing of
- the manners, times, qualities, and circumstances, of the games here
- practised, but suppose them much the same in all points with those used
- at Rome, and other places, and with suitable grandeur and magnificence;
- whether in relation to hunting or fighting of wild beasts, of the same
- or different kinds, with one another, or with men; of the gladiators,
- wrestlings, of the pageants called by the ancients <em>pegmata</em>,
- whence our word seems derived; of the showers of saffron water to
- refresh the spectators; of the gods these places were dedicated to,
- and their festivals: the whole of these matters, by those that have
- a mind to make themselves acquainted therewith, is best learnt from
- authors who have largely and professedly handled the subject; such as
- the learned Lipsius before quoted, Donatus, and many more Pitiscus
- will inform us of in his Lexicon. It is not to be questioned, that the
- Romans, who had so firmly settled themselves here for the space of 400
- years, were for elegance and politeness much upon the level with those
- of the continent. But amongst other shows and diversions of beasts,
- we may safely imagine that our British bull-dogs bore a part, since
- the Romans brought them up for the use of the Italian amphitheatres.
- Claudian speaks of them thus,</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza" lang="la">
- <div class="i0"><i>Magnaque taurorum fracturi colla Britanni.</i></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">But see a large and learned account of them from ancient authors in Mr.
- Camden’s <cite>Britannia</cite>, Hampshire, pag. 119.</p>
-
- <p>I shall give the reader a plain calculation of the number of people,
- that might commodiously be present at the solemn sports and diversions,
- made generally upon holy-days and great festivities of their gods.
- The people hereabouts told me, that once they executed a woman for
- petit-treason, in the middle of the <em>area</em>, by burning; which
- brought all the country round to the sight, and filled the whole place:
- they by a gross guess supposed there might be 10,000. But if we allow
- a foot and half for each person sitting, and the number of seats, as
- I have delineated it, 24; then one side of the building spread <em>in
- plano</em> will form a conic <em>frustrum</em> 440 feet long at top, 280
- at bottom; taking the medium number 360, multiplying it by 24, it<span class="pagenum" id="Page_175">175</span>
- gives us 8640 feet; from which take off a fourth part, to reduce it to
- single places of a foot and half, there remain 6480 places on one half
- of the amphitheatre; double this for the other side, and you produce
- 12,960 single places for spectators upon the whole range of seats. For
- fear of exceeding the truth, I omit all that might occasionally stand
- on the terrace at top, the ascent up to it, and on the entrance.</p>
-
- <p>It would be vain to talk of the exact time, or the persons concerned
- in building this amphitheatre: but my friend Mr. Pownall of Lincoln,
- before spoken of, has a silver coin of Philippus, ploughed up in the
- very place. <i lang="la">imp. m. jul. philippus aug. ℞ lætit. fundat.</i>
- a Genius with a garland in his right, the helm of a ship in his left
- hand: the legend of the reverse, I must own, seems strongly to intimate
- he made or repaired this work, or that some solemn sports were here
- performed in his time; notwithstanding his melancholy and cynical
- nature, which Sext. Aurelius gives us an account of, or that he was
- a christian. He reigned about A. D. 240. yet I chuse to think it is
- of a higher date. Tacitus tells us, so early as the time of Agricola
- in Titus his reign, they began to introduce luxury among the Britons;
- for he exhorted them privately, and publicly assisted them, to build
- temples, places of public resort, and fine houses; and by degrees
- they came to those excitements to debauchery, portico’s, baths, and
- the like, of which we frequently find the ruins. Therefore we may
- suppose amphitheatres were not forgotton; and probably this was not
- later than that time, so near the southern coast, (which among the
- Britons themselves was the most civilised) so rich and fine a country:
- for Titus his father Vespasian, partly under Claudius the emperor,
- and partly under Aulus Plautius his lieutenant, conquered all the
- parts hereabouts (as we mentioned in the beginning of this letter)
- where he fought the Britons thirty times, subdued two of their most
- potent nations, took above twenty of their towns, and the whole Isle
- of Wight. No doubt but the people, inhabitants of this country, the
- <em>Durotriges</em>, and the town of Dorchester, <em>Durnovaria</em>, were
- included in his conquests; and they, whatever reign it was in, for
- their entertainment, erected this noble work; of which, in comparison
- of our modern bear-gardens, and places of prize-fighting, I shall
- venture to give it as my sentiment,</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry" lang="la">
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0"><i>Hunc homines dicant, hos statuisse feras.</i></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <div class="right">7 Nov. 1723.</div>
-
- <div class="chapter">
- <span class="pagenum" id="Page_176">176</span>
- <hr class="full thick">
- <hr class="full mt0">
- <h2 class="nobreak" id="ITER_SEPTIMUM_ANTONINI_AUG">ITER SEPTIMUM ANTONINI AUG.&nbsp; &nbsp; VII.</h2>
- </div>
-
- <hr class="full">
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry" lang="la">
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0"><i>Adde tot egregias urbes, operumque laborem.</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Tot congesta manu præruptis oppida saxis,</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Fluminaque antiquos subterlabentia muros.</i> <span class="smcap fright">Virg. Geor. II.</span></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
- <hr class="full">
-
- <div class="center bold mt3 lh1"><i>To</i><span class="gesperrt2"> ROGER GALE</span>,&nbsp; <i>Esq</i>;</div>
-
- <p class="drop-cap">THE reasons I have to address the following journey to you, are
- both general and particular: of the first sort, the title affixed
- to it could not but put me in mind of your claim to these kind of
- disquisitions from any hand, whose excellent commentary on Antoninus’s
- Itinerary has deservedly given you the palm of ancient learning, and
- rendered your character classic among the chief restorers of the Roman
- Britain. But I am apprehensive it will be easier to make these papers
- of mine acceptable to the world, than to yourself, both as the most
- valuable part of them is your own, and as I purpose by it to remind
- you of favouring the public with a new edition of that work, to which
- I know you have made great additions; and in this I am sure they will
- join with me. The honour you have indulged me of a long friendship,
- the pleasure and advantage I have reaped in travelling with you, and
- especially a great part of this journey, are particular reasons, or
- rather a debt from myself and the world, if any thing of antique
- inquiries I can produce that are not illaudable, if what time I spend
- in travelling, may not be wholly a hunting after fresh air with the
- vulgar citizens, but an examination into the works of nature, and of
- past ages. I have no fears, that aught here will be less acceptable to
- you, because perhaps in some things I may differ from your sentiments:
- the sweetness of your disposition, and your great judgement, I know,
- will discern and applaud what is really just, and excuse the errors:
- difference of opinions, though false, is often of great service in
- furthering a discovery of the truth: to think for one’s self is the
- prerogative of learning; and no one, but a tyrant in books, will
- persecute another for it. It is certain, Antoninus his Itinerary is an
- endless fund of inquiry. I doubt not but in future researches I shall
- be induced as much to vary from myself as now from others; and, after
- our best endeavours, succeeding writers will correct us all.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Via Trinovantica.</span></div>
-
- <p>The last summer I travelled this whole Seventh Journey, and in the
- order of the Itinerary; but I took in several other places by the way,
- which relate to the clearing some parts of other journeys. Parallel to
- the great Icening-street, runs another Roman road from south-west to
- north-east,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_177">177</span> through London, beginning at the sea-coast in Hampshire by
- Rumsey, and ending at the sea-coast in Suffolk about Aldborough. The
- name of it is utterly lost: if I might have the liberty of assigning
- one, it should be <em>via Trinovantica</em>, as it tends to the country
- of those people; and names are necessary to avoid confusion. The lower
- part of it, or that comprehended between London and Ringwood upon the
- edge of Dorsetshire, is the subject of this journey; but because I have
- already given an account of several towns that relate to the XIIIth
- and XIVth journeys of Antoninus, which have some connexion with this,
- and that I conceive they are considerably faulty in the original, I
- shall run through some few more I had opportunity to see, and offer my
- conjectures towards the restitution of those journeys.</p>
-
- <p>Upon the great moor between Bagshot and Okingham, near East-Hamsted
- park, we saw a large camp upon a hill doubly ditched, commonly called
- Cæsar’s camp, as many more without any reason: there has been a well
- in it, and both Roman and British coins have been found there, one of
- Cunobelin in silver: its figure is not regular, but conformable to the
- top of the hill: near it are two large barrows, Ambury and Edgebury.
- At Berkham by Okingham I bought a very elegant British coin of gold,
- dug up by a woman in her garden: it is of the most ancient kind, and
- without letters. I saw a British gold coin found near Old Windsor;
- another dug up, 1719, at Hanmer hill, between Guildford and Farnham.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Vindoma.</div>
-
- <div class="sidenote">TAB. LXI.</div>
-
- <p>All the country hereabouts, and to Silchester, is clay, moor, sand,
- gravel by spots, much boggy, springy land, much good land, but more
- bad: the water is blackish every where. Silchester is a place that
- a lover of antiquity will visit with great delight: it stands upon
- the highest ground thereabouts, but hid with wood, which grows very
- plentifully all about it. Many were the Roman roads that met here,
- though now scarce any road; which is the reason it is so little known:
- it is likewise inconvenient for travellers, because no inns are near
- it; and it may be serviceable to tell the curious, that Aldermaston is
- the nearest town where lodging is to be found, three miles off; for at
- the place we may truly say,</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza" lang="la">
- <div class="i0"><i>Rarus &amp; antiquis habitator in urbibus errat.</i></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">The walls of this city are standing, more or less perfect, quite
- round; perhaps the most intire of any in the Roman empire, especially
- the whole north side of the wall, which is a most agreeable sight.
- The composition is chiefly flint for the space of four foot high,
- then a binding of three layers of rag-stone laid flat: in many places
- five of these double intervals remain for a great length. There was
- a broad ditch quite round, and now for the most part impassable, and
- full of springs. Here and there Roman bricks are left in the walls.
- Though on the out-side they are of this considerable height, yet the
- ground within is so raised as nearly to be equal to the top, and that
- quite round crowned with oaks and other timber-trees of no mean bulk,
- and which Mr. Camden takes notice of in his time. Not long since,
- lady Blessington cut 500l. worth of timber from thence. Gildas says,
- Constantius the son of Constantine the Great built it, and sowed corn
- in the track of the walls, as an omen of their perpetuity:<a id="FNanchor_135" href="#Footnote_135" class="fnanchor">[135]</a> indeed,
- now the whole city is arable; and among the fields Roman bricks, bits
- of pots, rubbish of buildings, are scattered every where, and coins
- are picked up every day. It is a parallelogram whose shortest side
- to the longest is as 3 to 4; its length about 2600 feet, its breadth
- 2000; standing<span class="pagenum" id="Page_178">178</span> conformable to the four cardinal points: it had two
- gates upon its length opposite. There is only one farm-house within
- it, and the church. To the east, by that house, the foundation of
- the gate is visible, and several Roman bricks thereabouts. All the
- yards here are like a solid rock, with rubbish, pavements and mortar,
- cemented together. The late Rev. Mr. Betham, minister of this place,
- a learned, curious and worthy person, had collected a vast number of
- coins and antiquities found here: he is buried under the north wall
- of the chancel without side: within is another monument of a person
- of quality: it is remarkable that a wall only divides them in their
- graves, who both met a sad and disastrous fate at different times
- in the same place, being drowned in Fleet-ditch. Onion-hole, in the
- middle of the southern wall, is a place much talked of here by the
- ignorant country people, which is only an arch in the foundation for
- the issue of a sewer: they have a like story here of this city being
- taken by sparrows. I saw a silver coin of Philippus, and a brass one
- of Constantine, and many more. A spring arises from under the wall at
- the church-yard. The streets are still visible in the corn. Rings with
- stones in them are often found, among inscriptions and all sorts of
- other antiquities.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Amphitheatre.</div>
-
- <div class="sidenote">TAB. XLIII. 2d Vol.</div>
-
- <p>Five hundred foot without the city, on the north-east corner I espied
- another great curiosity, which the people think was a castle: I
- presently discerned it to be an amphitheatre: it is in bulk, in shape,
- and all points, the same as that at Dorchester, but not built of so
- solid materials; for it is chiefly clay and gravel: it stands in a
- yard by the road side, near a ruinous house and barn, upon a sloping
- piece of ground: eastward toward the road there is a pit: there it is
- sixty foot high on the out-side. The whole <em>area</em> or <em>arena</em>
- within is now covered with water, but they say it is not much above
- three foot deep: the bottom of it, and the work, must certainly be
- exceeding solid, and well compared, to retain the water so many years
- without draining through: it is a most noble and beautiful concave, but
- intirely over-grown with thorn-bushes, briars, holly, broom, furze,
- oak and ash trees, &amp;c. and has from times immemorial been a yard for
- cattle, and a watering-pond; so that it is a wonder their trampling has
- not defaced it much more. I examined this fine antiquity with all the
- exactness possible: the terrace at top, the circular walk, the whole
- form, is not obscure: it is posited exactly as that before described,
- with its longest diameter from north-east to south-west; its entrance
- north-east, though farthest from the city. There is an ascent to it
- from the entrance side, that being upon the lowest ground: at the upper
- end, the level of the ground is not much below the top of the terrace,
- and vastly above that of the <em>arena</em>; so that I conceive the
- better sort of the people went that way directly from the city into
- their seats: there is such a gap too in that part, from the ruin of
- the cave where the wild beasts were kept. An old house standing there
- with an orchard has forwarded its ruin from that quarter; and they
- have levelled some part of the terrace for their garden. Surveying the
- whole could not but put me in mind of that piece of Roman magnificence,
- when the emperors caused great trees to be taken up by the roots, and
- planted in the amphitheatres and circs, <em>pro tempore</em>, to imitate
- forests wherein they hunted beasts; which here is presented in pure nature.</p>
-
- <p>Riding along the road on the north side of Silchester, I left it with
- this reflection: Now a person of a moderate fortune may buy a whole
- Roman city, which once half a kingdom could not do; and a gentleman may
- be lord of the soil where formerly princes and emperors commanded. To
- the west of the place, but at some distance, runs a high bank overgrown
- with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_179">179</span> trees seemingly north and south: they say there is another
- such, south of the city: which would make one suspect they were raised
- by some besiegers. Farther on I crossed a great Roman road coming
- from Winchester: they call it Long-bank and Grimesdike. I have very
- often found this name applied to a road, a wall, a ditch of antiquity;
- which would make one fancy it is a Saxon word signifying the witches
- work; for the vulgar generally think these extraordinary works made by
- help of the devil. They told me it goes through Burfield and Reading.
- Towards Winchester I could see it as far as the horizon, perfectly
- strait, ten miles off. We may say with the poet,</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza" lang="la">
- <div class="i0"><i>Tellus in longas est patefacta vias.</i> <span class="smcap fright">Tibull.</span></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">Near it they talk of a stone thrown by an imp from Silchester walls, a
- mile off, which I suppose a mile-stone. Mr. Camden says a Roman road
- runs westward from Silchester, which I imagine goes to Andover. From
- Aldermaston is a fine view of the country hanging over the Kennet,
- lately made navigable. Going from Aldermaston to Kingsclere, where
- once was a palace of the Saxon kings, I passed over Brimpton common:
- here are many very fine Celtic barrows:<span class="sidenote"><em>Barrows</em> Br.</span> the soil is a moor full of
- <em>erica</em>, which they dig up for fewel; underneath it is sand: at
- Kingsclere the mighty chalk-hills begin. Upon the top of a very high
- promontory is a square Roman camp, in a park. From hence to Andover is
- an hard way and open country. Just before I descended the continuation
- of this great ridge of hills overlooking Andover, I crossed a ditch
- like Wansditch, hanging upon the edge of the hills, which I suppose
- some division among the ancient Britons: it extended itself both ways
- as far as I could see: the foss is not very large, though the bank is:
- the foss is northward.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>43·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <img src="images/i_178.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div>
- <figcaption><i>The Side view of the</i> Amphitheater <i>at Silchester.&nbsp; <span class="small">May 8. 1724.</span></i></figcaption>
- </figure>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Andaoreon.</div>
-
- <p>Andover is (not to be questioned) the <em>Andaoreon</em> of Ravennas:
- the name signifies the watery habitation; <em>annedh</em>, habitatio;
- <em>dur</em>, aqua. It stands on the slope of a hill just by the springs
- of the river Tees, or <em>t’isca</em>: they arise here northward of the
- town very plentiful, and are carried in a thousand rills through all
- the meadows, till they unite and pass under the bridge. The church is
- an aukward old building; the west door, of an ancient circular make.
- They are now pulling down the timber market-house to build a new one
- of stone: the market-place is a broad street. Upon a very high hill
- to the south-west is a large Roman camp, seeming to be admirably well
- fortified: it is called <span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Bury-hill</span> Ro. <i>Camp</i>.</span>Bury hill. Between this and Stockbridge is
- Dunbury hill, a circular camp, doubly intrenched with various works at
- the entrance.</p>
-
- <p>I travelled along a fine downy country, ’till passing the river Bourn
- in Wiltshire I came to the Icening-street near Haradon hill; where I
- intended to observe the great eclipse of the sun, which was to be on
- the next day; of which memorable <em>phænomenon</em> I judge it will not
- be disagreeable if I repeat what I wrote of it.</p>
-
- <h3>To Dr. <i>Edmund Halley</i>.</h3>
-
- <p class="drop-cap">ACCORDING to my promise, I send you what I observed of the solar
- eclipse, though I fear it will not be of any great use to you. I was
- not prepared with any instruments for measuring time, or the like,
- and proposed to myself only to watch all the appearances that Nature
- would present to the naked eye on so remarkable an occasion, and which
- generally are overlooked, or but grosly regarded. I chose for my
- station a place<span class="pagenum" id="Page_180">180</span> called Haradon hill, two miles eastward from Amsbury,
- and full east from the opening of Stonehenge avenue, to which it is as
- the point of view. Before me lay the vast plain where that celebrated
- work stands, and I knew that the eclipse would appear directly over
- it: beside, I had the advantage of a very extensive prospect every
- way, this being the highest hill hereabouts, and nearest the middle of
- the shadow. Full west of me, and beyond Stonehenge, is a pretty copped
- hill, like the top of a cone lifting itself above the horizon: this is
- Clay hill, near Warminster, twenty miles distant, and near the central
- line of darkness, which must come from thence; so that I could have
- notice enough before-hand of its approach. Abraham Sturgis and Stephen
- Ewens, both of this place and sensible men, were with me. Though it was
- very cloudy, yet now and then we had gleams of sun-shine, rather more
- than I could perceive at any other place around us. These two persons
- looking through smoaked glasses, while I was taking some bearings
- of the country with a circumferentor, both confidently affirmed the
- eclipse was begun; when by my watch I found it just half an hour after
- five: and accordingly from thence the progress of it was visible,
- and very often to the naked eye; the thin clouds doing the office of
- glasses. From the time of the sun’s body being half covered, there was
- a very conspicuous circular <em>iris</em> round the sun, with perfect
- colours. On all sides we beheld the shepherds hurrying their flocks
- into fold, the darkness coming on; for they expected nothing less than
- a total eclipse, for an hour and a quarter.</p>
-
- <p>When the sun looked very sharp, like a new moon, the sky was pretty
- clear in that spot: but soon after a thicker cloud covered it; at which
- time the <em>iris</em> vanished, the copped hill before mentioned grew
- very dark, together with the horizon on both sides, that is, to the
- north and south, and looked blue; just as it appears in the east at
- the declension of day: we had scarce time to tell ten, when Salisbury
- steeple, six mile off southward, became very black; the copped hill
- quite lost, and a most gloomy night with full career came upon us. At
- this instant we lost sight of the sun, whose place among the clouds
- was hitherto sufficiently distinguishable, but now not the least trace
- of it to be found, no more than if really absent: then I saw by my
- watch, though with difficulty, and only by help of some light from
- the northern quarter, that it was six hours thirty-five minutes: just
- before this the whole compass of the heavens and earth looked of a
- lurid complexion, properly speaking, for it was black and blue; only
- on the earth upon the horizon the blue prevailed. There was likewise
- in the heavens among the clouds much green interspersed; so that the
- whole appearance was really very dreadful, and as symptoms of sickening
- nature.</p>
-
- <p>Now I perceived us involved in total darkness, and palpable, as I may
- aptly call it: though it came quick, yet I was so intent that I could
- perceive its steps, and feel it as it were drop upon us, and fall on
- the right shoulder (we looking westward) like a great dark mantle, or
- coverlet of a bed, thrown over us, or like the drawing of a curtain on
- that side: and the horses we held in our hands were very sensible of
- it, and crouded close to us, startling with great surprise. As much
- as I could see of the men’s faces that stood by me, had a horrible
- aspect. At this instant I looked around me, not without exclamations of
- admiration, and could discern colours in the heavens; but the earth had
- lost its blue, and was wholly black. For some time, among the clouds,
- there were visible streaks of rays, tending to the place of the sun as
- their centre; but immediately<span class="pagenum" id="Page_181">181</span> after, the whole appearance of the
- earth and sky was intirely black. Of all things I ever saw in my life,
- or can by imagination fancy, it was a sight the most tremendous.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_180">
- <img src="images/i_180.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div>
- <figcaption><i>The appearance of the</i> Total Solar eclipse <i>from
- Haradon hill May 11, 1724.</i></figcaption>
- </figure>
-
- <p>Toward the north-west, whence the eclipse came, I could not in the
- least find any distinction in the horizon between heaven and earth, for
- a good breadth, of about sixty degrees or more; nor the town of Amsbury
- underneath us, nor scarce the ground we trod on. I turned myself round
- several times during this total darkness, and remarked at a good
- distance from the west on both sides, that is, to the north and south,
- the horizon very perfect; the earth being black, the lower part of
- the heavens light: for the darkness above hung over us like a canopy,
- almost reaching the horizon in those parts, or as if made with skirts
- of a lighter colour; so that the upper edges of all the hills were as a
- black line, and I knew them very distinctly by their shape or profile:
- and northward I saw perfectly, that the interval of light and darkness
- in the horizon was between Martinsal hill and St. Ann’s hill; but
- southward it was more indefinite. I do not mean that the verge of the
- shadow passed between those hills, which were but twelve miles distant
- from us: but so far I could distinguish the horizon; beyond it, not
- at all. The reason of it is this: the elevation of ground I was upon
- gave me an opportunity of seeing the light of the heavens beyond the
- shadow: nevertheless this verge of light looked of a dead, yellowish
- and greenish colour: it was broader to the north than south, but the
- southern was of a tawny colour. At this time, behind us or eastward
- toward London, it was dark too, where otherwise I could see the hills
- beyond Andover; for the foremost end of the shadow was past thither: so
- that the whole horizon was now divided into four parts of unequal bulk
- and degrees of light and dark: the part to the north-west, broadest
- and blackest; to the south-west, lightest and longest. All the change
- I could perceive during the totality, was that the horizon by degrees
- drew into two parts, light and dark; the northern hemisphere growing
- still longer, lighter, and broader, and the two opposite dark parts
- uniting into one, and swallowing up the southern enlightened part.</p>
-
- <p>As at the beginning the shade came feelingly upon our right shoulders,
- so now the light from the north, where it opened as it were: though
- I could discern no defined light or shade upon the earth that way,
- which I earnestly watched for; yet it was manifestly by degrees, and
- with oscillations, going back a little, and quickly advancing further;
- till at length upon the first lucid point appearing in the heavens,
- where the sun was, I could distinguish pretty plainly a rim of light
- running along-side of us a good while together, or sweeping by at our
- elbows from west to east. Just then, having good reason to suppose the
- totality ended with us, I looked on my watch, and found it to be full
- three minutes and a half more: now the hill-tops changed their black
- into blue again, and I could distinguish a horizon where the centre
- of darkness was before: the men cried out, they saw the copped hill
- again, which they had eagerly looked for: but still it continued dark
- to the south-east; yet I cannot say that ever the horizon that way was
- undistinguishable: immediately we heard the larks chirping and singing
- very briskly for joy of the restored luminary, after all things had
- been hushed into a most profound and universal silence: the heavens and
- earth now appeared exactly like morning before sun-rise, of a greyish
- cast, but rather more blue interspersed; and the earth, as far as the
- verge of the hill reached, was of a dark green or russet colour.</p>
-
- <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_182">182</span></p>
-
- <p>As soon as the sun emerged, the clouds grew thicker, and the light was
- very little amended for a minute or more, like a cloudy morning slowly
- advancing. After about the middle of the totality, and so after the
- emersion of the sun, we saw Venus very plainly, but no other star.
- Salisbury steeple now appeared. The clouds never removed, so that we
- could take no account of it afterward, but in the evening it lightened
- very much. I hasted home to write this letter; and the impression was
- so vivid upon my mind, that I am sure I could, for some days after,
- have wrote the same account of it, and very precisely. After supper I
- made a drawing of it from my imagination, upon the same paper I had
- taken a prospect of the country before.</p>
-
- <p>I must confess to you, that I was (I believe) the only person in
- England that regretted not the cloudiness of the day, which added so
- much to the solemnity of the sight, and which imcomparably exceeded,
- in my apprehension, that of 1715, which I saw very perfectly from the
- top of Boston steeple in Lincolnshire, where the air was very clear:
- but the night of this was more complete and dreadful. There indeed
- I saw both sides of the shadow come from a great distance, and pass
- beyond us to a great distance; but this eclipse had much more of
- variety and majestic terror: so that I cannot but felicitate myself
- upon the opportunity of seeing these two rare accidents of nature, in
- so different a manner: yet I should willingly have lost this pleasure
- for your more valuable advantage of perfecting the noble theory of
- the celestial bodies, which last time you gave the world so nice a
- calculation of; and wish the sky had now as much favoured us for an
- addition to your honour and great skill, which I doubt not to be as
- exact in this as before.<span class="fright0"><i>Ambsbury, Wilts, May 10, 1724.</i></span></p>
-
- <p class="mt3">Return we to matters of antiquity. Upon this very hill-top are great
- pits dug lately by order of my lord Charlton for clay, which they find
- here of a very stiff sort, by nature let in like veins among clefts of
- the solid chalk: the workmen here, whilst they have been busy in taking
- it up, have found many Romans coins, silver and brass, some very deep
- in the earth, as they say; several of which I have now by me. I saw
- likewise a very fair gold <em>Constantius</em>; the reverse, two Genii
- holding a shield, <em>vot.</em> xxx. <cite>victoria Augg.</cite> It seems as if
- the Romans, with their wonted sagacity, had been occupied here in the
- same way, to make pottery ware, and not neglected to leave proof of it
- according to their method. I took notice likewise of one side of the
- summit being covered with oyster-shells loose upon the surface; and how
- they came there I could get no information.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Icening-street.</span></div>
-
- <p>The Icening-street runs between this hill and the Bourn river, coming
- from Newberry, as I suppose, through Chute forest, where vulgarly
- called Chute causeway: at Lurgishal it makes a fine terrace-walk in
- the garden of Sir Philip Medows; then passes the Bourn river about
- Tudworth, and so by this place to the eastern gate of Old Sarum, the
- Roman <span class="sidenote smcap">Sorbiodunum.</span><em>Sorbiodunum</em>, where it runs most precisely north-east
- and south-west, as we said before. <span class="sidenote">TAB. LXV.</span>This city is perfectly round, and
- formed upon one of the most elegant designs one can imagine: probably
- a fortress of the old Britons, and I fancy somewhat like the famous
- Alesia in Gaul, memorable for the ancient Hercules, its founder, and
- for the siege of the great Cæsar; which only his genius could have
- taken in his circumstances. The prospect of this place is at present
- very august, and would have afforded us a most noble sight when in
- perfection: such a one will not be difficult to conceive when we have
- described it. It fills up the summit of a high and steep hill, which
- originally rose equally on all sides to an <em>apex</em>: the whole work
- is 1600 foot diameter, included in a ditch of a prodigious depth:
- it is so contrived that in effect it has two ramparts, the inner and
- outer, the ditch between: upon the inner, which is much the higher,
- stood a strong wall of twelve foot thick, their usual standard, which
- afforded a parapet at top for the defendants, with battlements quite
- round: upon still higher ground is another deep circular ditch, of 500
- foot diameter; this is the castle or citadel. Upon the inner rampire of
- this was likewise another wall, I suppose of like thickness: so that
- between the inner ditch and the outer wall, all around, was the city.
- This is divided into equal parts by a meridian line: both the banks are
- still left; one to the south, the other to the north; and these had
- walls upon them too: the traces of all the walls are still manifest,
- and some parts of them left; but we may say with the poet of the whole,</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza" lang="la">
- <div class="i8"><i>————lapsis ingentia muris</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Saxa jacent, nulloque domus custode tenetur.</i> <span class="smcap fright">Lucan. I.</span></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">In the middle of each half, toward the east and west, is a gate,
- with each a lunette before it, deeply ditched, and two oblique
- entries; that to the east is square, to the west round: the hollow
- where the wall stood is visible quite round, though the materials
- are well-nigh carried away to New Sarum: in every quarter were two
- towers, the foundations plainly appearing: then, with those that
- were upon the cardinal points, the gates and the median rampart, as
- it must necessarily be understood, there were twelve in the whole
- circumference; so that, supposing it about 5000 feet in circumference,
- there was a tower at every 400. Hence we may imagine the nature of
- the city was thus: a circular street went round in the middle between
- the inner and outer fortifications, concentric to the whole work; and
- that cross streets, like <em>radii</em>, fronted each tower: then there
- were twenty-four islets of building for houses, temples, or the like.
- Now such is the design of this place, that if one half was taken by
- an enemy, the other would still be defensible; and at last they might
- retire into the castle. The city is now ploughed over, and not one
- house left. In the angle to the north-west stood the cathedral and
- episcopal palace: the foundations are at present so conspicuous, that I
- could easily mark out the ground-plot of it, as in the <a href="#i_182">65th plate</a>: near
- it is a large piece of the wall left, made of hewn stone with holes
- quite through at equal spaces. One would imagine the Romans, in laying
- down the <em>area</em> of this city, had Plato’s rules in view,<a id="FNanchor_136" href="#Footnote_136" class="fnanchor">[136]</a> in
- his fifth dialogue of laws. Many wells have been filled up, and, no
- doubt, with noble reliques of antiquity: they must have been very deep,
- and especially that in the castle, and dug out of the solid chalk.
- Of the castle-wall a good deal of huge fragments and foundations are
- left: a double winding stair-case led up to the gate, where bits of
- arch-work and immense strength of stone and mortar remains; and within,
- many foundations and traces of buildings. In the north-east corner of
- the city there is another rampart upon a <em>radius</em>, including a
- squarish piece of ground; probably for some public edifice, but what
- in particular, is now hard to say. <span class="sidenote">TAB. LXVI.</span>Certainly, for <span class="pagenum" id="Page_184">184</span>strength, air, and
- prospect over the lovely downs, and for salubrity, this place was well
- calculated, and impregnable to any thing but death and hunger. The
- river Avon runs near the bottom of the hill. The history of its glory,
- its strange vicissitudes, and its ruin by removal of the church to
- New Sarum, may be learnt from Camden, Burton, and other authors; my
- business being chiefly to describe things: but the very sight of such a
- carcass would naturally from a traveller extort such an expostulation:
- Is this the ancient episcopal see, and the seat of warlike men, now
- become corn-fields, and pasture for sheep? Is this the place where
- synods have been held, and British parliaments; where all the states of
- the kingdom were summoned to swear fealty to William the Conqueror; the
- palace of the most potent British and Saxon kings, and Roman emperors?
- and conclude with Rutilius,</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza" lang="la">
- <div class="i0"><i>Non indignemur mortalia corpora solvi,</i></div>
- <div class="i2"><i>Cernimus exemplis oppida posse mori.</i></div>
- </div>
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0">Nor grieve at our own fate, since here we see</div>
- <div class="i0">That towns themselves must die as well as we.</div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">Before the eastern gate of <em>Sorbiodunum</em>, a branch of the <span class="sidenote">Roman <em>way</em>.</span>Roman
- way proceeds eastward to Winchester, which has never yet been observed:
- upon this goes part of the XVth imperial journey in these words;
- <em>Venta Belgarum, Brige, Sorbiodunum</em>. This way passes the river
- Bourn at Ford: the ridge of it is plain, though the countrymen have
- attacked it vigorously on both sides with their ploughs: we caught
- them at the sacrilegious work, and reprehended them for it: then it
- goes between Clarendon park, and the camp of Chlorus before described:
- on the whole length of Farley common it is very conspicuous, made of
- hard matter dug up all along on both sides; then ascends the hills
- at Winterslow, which signifies the white hill; then through Buckholt
- forest, where with good heed the course of it may be followed, though
- through by-ways, pastures, woods and hedges; sometimes running the
- length, sometimes crossing it: a little northward of West Titherley it
- goes close by a farm-house and large barn upon a rising ground, and at
- the edge of a wood. This is the proper distance of eight miles from
- <em>Sorbiodunum</em>, and was the ancient <span class="sidenote smcap">Brige.</span>Brige; and Roman antiquities
- are often found here: the British name imports a town upon the top of
- the hill; <em>brege</em>, cacumen.</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza" lang="la">
- <div class="i0"><i>Nunc situs informis premit &amp; deserta vetustas.</i> <span class="smcap fright">Hor.</span></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">All this country being part of the Conqueror’s new forest, this colony
- of the Romans shared in that great depopulation he made for his
- diversion. It is near the brink of that woody hill, called Horseshoe
- wood from its being upon a hill, overlooking Broughton upon the river
- Wallop, where Mr. Camden places the Brige. A little way farther upon
- the same brink, on an <em>apex</em> of the hill, stands a large Celtic
- barrow, ditched about, called Bols turret:<a id="FNanchor_137" href="#Footnote_137" class="fnanchor">[137]</a> there are several
- other barrows thereabouts, and probably some Roman; for the Roman
- road, here called the Cause-way, proceeds upon this edge to the river
- at Bossington, though sometimes intercepted by corn-fields, where the
- common road goes about, and then falls into it again: it passes over
- the river at Bossington, then marches directly to Winchester west gate.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp73 mb4" id="i_182">
- <div class="plateno"><i>65</i></div>
- <div><b>SORBIODVNVM.<br><i class="small">1. Aug. 1722.</i></b></div>
- <div class="small"><i>The View.</i></div>
- <div class="small"><i>The Ichnography.</i></div>
- <div class="small"><i>The Section.</i></div>
- <img src="images/i_182.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley designavit.</i></div>
- <figcaption>Antiquæ Urbis Cadaver in Æs transtulit Joħes Pine Chalcographus.</figcaption>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_183">
- <div class="plateno"><i>66</i></div>
- <img src="images/i_183.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div>
- <div class="small">A. <i>Stratford</i>&nbsp; &nbsp; B. <i>the Icening Street</i>.</div>
- <figcaption><i>Prospect of</i> Old Sarum <i>Aug. 1. 1723.</i></figcaption>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp65 mb4">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>75·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <img src="images/i_185.jpg" alt="">
- <div><b>MARCVS MODIVS MEDICVS. <i class="small">In Marmore</i><br>
- <i>Apud Illustrissimum Comitem</i> Penbrokiæ, In Villa Carviliana.</b></div>
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin:</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>G. V<sup>dr</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.5em;">.</span> Gucht Sculp.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_185">185</span></p>
-
- <p>Having described this road, let us return to <em>Sorbiodunum</em>,
- in order to pursue the Icening-street: but first give me leave to
- impart to the reader somewhat of the pleasure you and I reaped at the
- neighbouring <span class="sidenote smcap">Wilton.</span>Wilton. I shall only at this time give a catalogue of my
- lord Pembroke’s most noble collection of ancient marbles, which may
- be of use to the curious, in knowing the particulars of that glorious
- <em>Musœum</em>, or that have a mind to view them.</p>
-
- <p>The BUSTO’S are in number 133.&nbsp; The STATUES 36.&nbsp; The BASSO RELIEVO’S 15.&nbsp; MISCELLANIES 9.</p>
-
- <p>I. Of the BUSTO’S. 1. Those made with eyes of different matter from
- the bust. A Sibyl, the whole cavity of the eyes hollowed: Ariadne,
- with agate eyes: A Greek Cupid, with agate eyes: Drusus, Germanicus;
- these two are in copper, finely performed, with silver eyes.—2. Learned
- persons. Hesiod: Homer, brought from Constantinople, seems by its high
- antiquity to have been the first model of the father of the poets:
- Sappho, the inimitable in poetry; this is of the ivory marble, the last
- perfection of Greek sculpture: Pythagoras: Anacharsis, of an admirable
- character: Socrates, by the roguish carver dressed like a Satyr, with
- sharp ears: Plato, very ancient, and of a most venerable aspect:
- Aristotle: Aristophanes: Apollonius Tyanæus, a most valuable antiquity,
- with the right hand and arm: Marcus Modius, an Athenian physician,
- of excellent Greek work: Epicurus, a little bust of the great atomic
- philosopher:<span class="sidenote">TAB. XLIV. 2d Vol.</span> Posidonius, preceptor to Cicero: Sophocles: Aspasia,
- who taught Socrates rhetoric: Isocrates: Cato major: Cicero, of
- touch-stone: Horace, as some think; a young busto of speckled porphyry;
- I am inclined to believe it Ovid: Seneca: Persius the Satyrist: Titus
- Livius.—3. Of coloss proportion. Arsinoe mater: Ahenobarbus, the bad
- father of the worse Nero: Julia Domna, wife of Severus: Geta when
- young, their son.—4. Persons of Greece before the Roman empire: Cecrops
- and his wife represented as Janus: Tmolus, a most ancient founder of
- a colony: Ganymede, with the Phrygian bonnet, very beautiful: Dido:
- Arsinoe filia: Phædra, wife of Theseus: Damas, the learned daughter
- of Pythagoras: Olympias, mother of Alexander: Alexander magnus:
- Lysimachus: Berenice mater: Berenice filia: Ptolemy, brother to
- Cleopatra: Cleopatra, wife to Antipater: Ammonius Alexandrinus, one
- of the Olympic victors: Iotape, wife of Antiochus Comagenes king of
- Syria.—5. Consular persons: Lucius Junius Brutus, who slew Tarquin:
- M. Junius Brutus, who slew Cæsar: P. Cornelius Scipio Africanus:
- Scipio Asiaticus: P. Cornelius Scipio Nasica: one of the brothers of
- the Horatii: Marcellus: Marius: Sulpicius Rufus: Dolabella: Cneius
- Pompeius magnus: Sextus Pompeius.—6. Emperors, Empresses, Cæsars and
- Augustæ, beside Geta and Julia Domna already mentioned. Julius Cæsar,
- of oriental alabaster, the only original: Augustus: Julia, daughter
- to Augustus, incomparably fine: Cajus Cæsar: Lucius Cæsar: Marcellus:
- Drusus senior: Germanicus: Agrippina senior: Antonia, of curious
- marble: Tiberius, of small brass: Caligula: Cæsonia, wife of Caligula:
- Claudius, the conqueror of Britain: Drusilla: Messalina: Nero: Sabina
- Poppæa, his wife, a naked busto: Octavia, his wife: Marcia: Galba:
- Otho: Vitellius: Lucius Vitellius, brother to the emperor: Vespasian:
- Titus: Julia, daughter of Titus: Domitian: Vespasianus novus, the
- adopted son of Domitian: Nerva: Trajan: Hadrian: Sabina: Antinous,
- Hadrian’s favourite: Antoninus Pius: Faustina senior: M. Aurelius
- Antoninus Philosophus: Annius Verus: Lucius Verus: Commodus: Lucilla,
- wife of Ælius: Lucilla junior, wife of Verus: Pertinax: Didius<span class="pagenum" id="Page_186">186</span>
- Julianus: Crispina, wife of Commodus: Septimius Severus: Plautilla,
- wife of Caracalla: Julia Paula: Macrinus: Annia Faustina, wife of
- Heliogabalus: Julia Mammæa, wife of Verus: Julia Moesa: Lucilla junior:
- Alexander Severus: Gordianus Cæsar: Balbinus: Sabina Tranquillina, wife
- of Antonius Gordianus, emperor: Marcia Otacilla; Q. Herennius, a boy:
- Hostilianus: Volusianus: Valerianus, a boy: Constantinus magnus the
- Briton, of better work than was commonly in that age, as a few of his
- medals were.—7. Divinities. Jupiter: Pallas: Apollo, a fine large bust:
- Diana: Venus, like that of Medicis: Bacchus: Faunus: Fauna: Libera:
- Libertas: Mercury Pantheon, made of different faces.</p>
-
- <p>II. STATUES. A queen of the Amazons defending herself from a horseman
- in battle: Cupid, a man, breaking his bow: Clio, the muse, sitting: a
- Faunus: these are of most admirable workmanship. Five statues reckoned
- as ancient as any in the several parts of the world. Egypt, Isis
- with her husband Osiris in Theban iron stone. Thrace, Jupiter Ammon
- from the temple built by Sesostris, with a ram on his shoulders; it
- is a very venerable piece. Asia Minor, Diana of Ephesus; the head,
- hands and feet black, the rest of white marble. Phrygia, Cupid tied
- to a tree; a Phrygian cap on his head. Lydia, Hercules wrestling
- with Achelous. Paris with the Phrygian bonnet and shepherd’s coat of
- skins. Saturn with an infant in his arms. The Egyptian Bacchus, of a
- fine shape, carrying the young fat Greek Bacchus on his shoulder. A
- shepherd playing on the flute. A Greek Bacchus. Flora. Silenus drunk,
- with a club in his hand, fancying himself Hercules, supported by a
- younger; a piece of most incomparable art. A boy dancing and playing
- on music. Cupid holding the golden apple. A young Bacchus smiling.
- Marcus Aurelius on horseback, made at Athens, small. The river Meander,
- recumbent. A boy in an eager posture, catching at some live thing
- on the ground. A coloss Hercules, six Attic cubits high, with three
- apples in one hand. Cleopatra giving suck to Cæsarion her son, sitting.
- Julia Pia Domna, wife of Septimius Severus, sitting. Livia, the wife
- of Augustus, sitting. Manlia Scantilla, sitting. Attys the Phrygian,
- engraved by Montfaucon without the head, which is here restored. Mark
- Antony, a crocodile at his feet. Apollo. Ceres. Pomona. Andromeda.
- Young Hercules with the serpents. Hercules, old, with his club. The
- dwarf of Augustus.</p>
-
- <p>III. BASSO RELIEVO’S. The Story of Niobe, <i lang="la">alto relievo</i>, very
- ancient: there are twenty figures; the marble is 2400 weight; seems to
- have been a pannel in some temple of Apollo, or Diana. The story of
- Meleager, being the side of a <em>sarcophagus</em>, seventeen figures,
- <i lang="la">mezzo relievo</i>, 1500 weight, of an admirable taste. Curtius on
- horseback, leaping into the gaping cavern, of most excellent work. M.
- Aurelius and Faustina, <i lang="la">adversa capita</i>, fine work. Caracalla,
- a three-quarters <i lang="la">relievo</i>. The three Graces. One on horseback,
- cutting at a soldier defending himself under the horse. The ancient
- manner of eating, Jupiter served by Hebe: he is accumbent. A frize of
- a sea-triumph, small figures. Cleopatra with the asps in a covered
- vase, <i lang="la">alto relievo</i>. Part of a frize from a temple of Neptune,
- Naiades and Tritons. A <i lang="la">basso</i> from a temple of Bacchus, the
- <i lang="la">thyrsus</i>, &amp;c. A <i lang="la">basso relievo</i> on porphyry of Roemitalces
- king of Thrace. A child stealing fruit from the altar through a mask.</p>
-
- <p>IV. MISCELLANIES. A nuptial vase, representing the ceremonies of
- marriage. Ara Hammonis, a cube of white marble, on front the symbol
- of Jupiter Hammon on a circular piece of the old Theban marble. Two<span class="pagenum" id="Page_187">187</span>
- black porphyry pillars brought from Rome by the earl of Arundel. The
- column of Egyptian granite, weighing near 7000 weight, from the ruins
- of the temple of Venus genetrix, built by Julius Cæsar: this my lord
- has set up in the front of the house. A very ancient altar of Bacchus,
- adorned with <i lang="la">basso relievo’s</i>. An altar table of red Egyptian
- granite, large, and four or five inches thick. An antique pavement,
- four sorts of marble, of gradual light and shade. The antique picture
- from the temple of Juno: it is in thick stucco. The <em>sarcophagus</em>
- of Epaphroditus intire, finely carved with the history of Ceres. The
- front of Claudia’s sepulchre, sister of Probus the emperor: her head is
- joined with his. Eighty-five <em>termini</em> of antique marbles, busto’s
- on seventy-two of them.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Icening-street.</span></div>
-
- <p>From the gate of <em>Sorbiodunum</em> the Icening-street goes from
- north-east to south-west, by the name of Port lane, over the river Avon
- at Stretford; then ascends the hill, and passes the united Nadre and
- Willy near Bemerton, where the stony ford is still very perfect: then
- it goes across my lord Pembroke’s horse-race course and hare-warren,
- making a visto to M. Aurelius his equestrian figure in the park. If
- the spirits and <em>genii</em> of the ancient Romans travel this way, no
- doubt they will be surprised to find themselves so near the Capitol.
- Then it traverses the brook at Fenny-Stretford, and so along the great
- downs toward Cranburn chace: here it delights one to turn and survey
- its direction towards <em>Sorbiodunum</em>, a sweet prospect; whether we
- regard what share of it is due to nature, or what to art; and of the
- latter sort, what is owing to the road, or what to the old city. As
- it enters the chace there is a most remarkable <em>diverticulum</em>,
- and which notoriously demonstrates it was begun from the south: for
- here, as it came from thence across the woods, where its ridge is very
- perfect, made of stone, it butts full upon the end of a vast valley,
- very deep and of steep descent; where it was absolutely impracticable
- to carry the road on in a strait line: the Roman surveyor therefore
- wisely gave way to nature, turned the road side-ways along the end of
- the valley, then with an equal angle carried it forward upon the upper
- side of that valley in full direction to Old Sarum. That great and
- wise people, though ignorant of submission, knew nature might be drawn
- aside, but not directly opposed, especially in works that are to be
- lasting: hence my intent was, to pursue this noble road as far as it
- would carry me; and the pleasure one perceives in such a concomicant
- is not to be imagined by any one but those that experience it: to
- observe their methods in the conduct of such works, their artifices
- and struggles between industry and the difficulties and diversities of
- ground, of rivers, &amp;c. and the continual presentment of somewhat worthy
- of remark by the way, renders it short, and vastly entertaining; nor
- is the mind ever at a loss for learned amusement. When it has passed
- through the woods of Cranburn chace, and approaches Woodyates, you see
- a great dike and <em>vallum</em> (Venndike) upon the edges of the hills
- to the left by Pentridge, to which I suppose it gave name: this crosses
- the Roman road, and then passes on the other side, upon the division
- between the hundred. The large <em>vallum</em> here is southward, and it
- runs upon the northern brink of the hills; whence I conjecture it a
- division or fence thrown up by the <em>Belgæ</em> before Cæsar’s time.
- I call this the second boundary of the <em>Belgæ</em>; two others are
- already mentioned. I pleased myself with the hopes of observing the
- Roman road running over it, as doubtless it did originally: but just
- at that instant both enter a lane, where every thing is disfigured
- with the wearing away and reparations that have been made ever since.
- Its high ridge is then inclosed within a pasture just at Woodyates,
- then becomes the common road for half<span class="pagenum" id="Page_188">188</span> a mile, but immediately passes
- forward upon a down, the road going off to the right. I continued
- the Roman road for two or three mile, where it is rarely visited:
- it is very beautiful, smooth on both sides, broad at top, the holes
- remaining whence it was taken, with a ditch on each hand: it is made of
- gravel, flint, or such stuff as happened in the way, most convenient
- and lasting. There are vast numbers of Celtic barrows upon these
- downs, just of such manner and shapes as those of Salisbury plain:
- at the first and more considerable group I came to, there was a most
- convincing evidence of the Roman road being made since the barrows:
- two instances of this nature I gave in the last letter. One form of
- these barrows, for distinction sake, I call Druids (for what reasons I
- shall not stand here to dispute:) they are thus. A circle of about 100
- foot diameter, more or less, is inclosed with a ditch of a moderate
- breadth and depth: on the outside of this ditch is a proportionate
- <em>vallum</em>; in the centre of this inclosure is a small tump, where
- the remains of the person are buried, sometimes two, sometimes three.
- Now so it fell out, that the line of direction of the Roman road
- necessarily carried it over part of one of these <em>tumuli</em>, and
- some of the materials of the road are dug out of it: this has two
- little tumps in its centre.</p>
-
- <p>It was now my business to look out for the station in Antoninus called
- <em>Vindogladia</em>, mentioned in the last journey to be twelve mile
- from <em>Sorbiodunum</em>. By this time I was come to a proper distance:
- accordingly I found, at the end of this heath, the road which is all
- along called Iclingdike, descended a valley where a brook crosses it,
- from two villages called Gliffet. At All-Saints, or Lower Gliffet,
- there was a small ale-house, and the only one hereabouts (the Rose:)<span class="sidenote smcap">Vindogladia.</span>
- my old landlady, after some discourse preparatory, informed me that
- at Boroston, a mile lower upon the river, had been an old city; and
- that strangers had come out of their way on purpose to see it; that
- ruins and foundations were there; that it had seven parish-churches,
- which were beaten down in the war time; that many old coins had been
- ploughed up when she was a girl, which the children commonly played
- withal; but the case at present was plainly the same with that of old
- Troy, described in the ballad upon her wall, where she showed me these
- passionate verses,</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0">Waste lie those walls that were so good,</div>
- <div class="i0">And corn now grows where Troy towers stood.</div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">This account, so natural, satisfied me that <em>Vindogladia</em> must
- here be fixed, and Wimbornminster be robbed of that honour, where the
- tide of antiquarians have hitherto carried it, for no other reason but
- name sake; the distances and road being repugnant. I suppose the name
- signifies the white river, or vale; <em>vint</em>, white; <em>gladh</em>,
- a river; whence our glade, or valley where a river runs. This place
- being not capable of affording me a proper mansion, I left the more
- particular scrutiny of it for another opportunity.</p>
-
- <p>Hence I pursued the road on the opposite chalk-hill, where they have
- dug it away to burn for lime, but much degenerate from Roman mortar in
- strength: it was not long before I absolutely lost it in great woods
- beyond Long Crechil; but by information I learnt that it passes the
- Stour at Crayford bridge below Blandford, where I was obliged to take
- up my nightly quarters. I was glad to gain the downy country again
- westward of it, and still full of barrows of all sorts by clusters or
- groups. I frequently observed on the sides of hills long divisions,
- very strait, crossing one another with all<span class="pagenum" id="Page_189">189</span> kinds of angles: they
- look like the balks or meres of ploughed lands, and are really made
- of flint over-grown with turf: they are too small for ploughed lands,
- unless of the most ancient Britons, who dealt little that way; but just
- such like have I seen in what I always imagine British camps. Above the
- town of Blandford is an odd intrenchment on a hill, a squarish work,
- with others like the foundation of small towers: a barrow near it.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4">
- <div class="attr"><i>Vol. I. p. 81</i></div>
- <div><b><i>A Roman Camp near Bere Regis</i> (Ibernium) <i>Dors<sup>r</sup> 9 Iun 1724.</i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_189.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Blandford.</div>
-
- <p>Blandford is a pretty town, pleasantly seated in a flexure of
- the river, before charming meadows, and rich lands. Wood thrives
- exceedingly here: indeed this country is a fine variety of downs,
- woods, lawns, arable, pasture, and rich valleys; and an excellent air:
- the dry easterly winds, the cold northern, and the western moisture,
- are tempered by the warm southern saline breezes from the ocean, and
- nearest the sun. The incredible number of barrows that over-spread
- this country from the sea-side to North Wiltshire, persuade me a great
- people inhabited here before the <em>Belgæ</em>, that came from Spain,
- which we may call the <em>Albionites</em>: but it is not a time to
- discourse of that. This year, wherever I travelled, I found the bloom
- of the hedge-rows, and indeed all trees whatever, excessively luxuriant
- beyond any thing I ever knew. In this part the <em>buck-thorn</em>, or
- <i lang="la">rhamnus catharticus</i>, is very plentiful; and a traveller, if he
- pleases, may swallow a dozen of the ripe berries, not without use. Near
- the passage of the Icening-street at Crayford is Badbury, a vast Roman
- camp, where antiquities have been found.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Wansdike.</div>
-
- <p>About three mile beyond this I found another ditch and rampart, which
- I believe to be the first of the colony of the <em>Belgæ</em>; it has
- indeed a rude ancient look; so that they made four of these boundaries
- successively as their power enlarged, the last being Wansdike,
- between North and South Wiltshire. By what I could see or learn, in
- travelling over this intricate country, the Roman road passes upon a
- division between Pimpern and Bere hundred to Bere; and that I reckon
- a convenient distance for a station between <em>Vindogladia</em> and
- Dorchester, being near the middle: on one side it is about thirteen
- mile, on the other nine. Now in the last journey of Antoninus before
- mentioned, immediately after <span class="sidenote smcap">Ibernium.</span><em>Vindogladia</em> follows <em>Durnovaria
- M. P.</em> IX. Dorchester being very truly nine mile off this town Bere,
- and which is a market-town too, but far otherwise as to Wimbornminster;
- I doubt not but this is the true place designed in the Itinerary; but
- that a town is slipped out of the copies. I think I have fortunately
- discovered it in the famous Ravennas, by which we may have hopes of
- restoring this journey to its original purity. That author mentions a
- town next to <em>Bindogladia</em>, which he calls <em>Ibernium</em>: this
- verily is our Bere. Mr. Baxter corrects it into <em>Ibelnium</em>, and
- places it at Blandford, for no other reason, as I conceive, but because
- he imagined it must necessarily be hereabouts. I was not a little
- pleased when I found my notion highly confirmed by a great and elegant
- <span class="sidenote">Ro. <i>Camp</i>.</span>Roman camp upon a hill near Bere, I think it is called Woodbury, where
- a yearly fair is kept: <span class="sidenote">TAB. XLV 2d Vol.</span>this is between Bere and Milburn upon the
- river: it is doubly intrenched, or rather a double camp one within
- another. This town of Bere denominates the hundred too. In this case,
- where a Roman camp, a road, and all distances concur, which in the
- others are very abhorrent from reality, I imagine the reader will find
- little difficulty in passing over to my sentiments. The town is called
- <em>Bere Regis</em>, and the camp is the <em>Æstiva</em> to the town. Of
- Dorchester I have spoken already, beyond which is the original of the
- Icening-street: from thence I travelled along the southern coasts, in
- order to come to the beginning of this seventh journey.</p>
-
- <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_190">190</span></p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Moriconium.</div>
-
- <p>Wareham is denominated from the passage or ford over the two rivers
- between which it is situate, where now are bridges: this has been a
- Roman town. A great square is taken in, with a very high <em>vallum</em>
- of earth, and a deep ditch: there has been a castle by the water-side,
- west of the bridge, built by William the Conqueror, perhaps upon the
- Roman. It is an old corporation, now decayed, the sands obstructing the
- passage of vessels; and Pool, being better seated, from a fisher’s town
- has rose to be a rich flourishing sea-port, robbing this place. They
- say here have been many parish-churches, and a mint. This is probably
- the <em>Moriconium</em> of Ravennas, as Mr. Baxter asserts. I heard of
- Roman coins being found here. This country is sandy for the most part,
- as commonly toward the sea-coasts. I saw a ruinous religious house as
- I came by the side of the river Frome. This haven is of a vast extent,
- like a sea, having a narrow entry; an indulgent formation of Nature to
- her beloved island of Great Britain. I saw vast stones lying loose upon
- this sand, in some places, like the Wiltshire grey weathers. It is a
- melancholy unpleasant view hereabouts for travellers, when they come
- from the other delightful scenes of the better parts of Dorsetshire:
- it is moory for the most part, full of ling or heath, as on all the
- sea-coasts here, from the chalk-hills in Dorsetshire to those in
- Sussex. Two rocks about Corf castle have an odd appearance hence.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Alauna.</div>
-
- <p>Wimburnminster is a small place, of no great trade: a large old church
- with two towers; the middle one in the cross very old, and most of the
- church before the time of the Conquest: this middle steeple had a spire
- which fell down. The river Stour runs a little way south of the town,
- through a large bridge; <em>sdour</em>, a <em>sibilus</em> put to the old
- Celtic word. The river Alen in several divisions runs through the town,
- which makes me think it to be the <em>Alauna</em> of Ravennas, put next
- to <span class="sidenote smcap">Bolnelaunium.</span><i>Bolnelaunium</i>, which I conjecture to be Christ’s-church by the
- sea-side, that being subsequent to <em>Moriconium</em>: that it was not
- Pool, as Mr. Baxter places it, is plain from a reason just mentioned,
- Pool being an upstart. Wimburnminster stands in a large extended
- fruitful vale like a meadow, with much wood about it. These rivers
- abound with fish. Here was a nunnery built anno 712, by Cuthburga
- sister to king Ina. King Etheldred was buried here.</p>
-
- <p>From hence I went to Ringwood upon the river Avon, over a deep sandy
- moor; which has ever been thought the <span class="sidenote smcap">Regnum.</span><em>Regnum</em> in the Itinerary,
- and begins the <i lang="la">Iter septimum</i> of Antoninus.<span class="sidenote">TAB. XLVI. 2d Vol.</span> It is a large
- thriving place, full of good new brick houses, seated by the side of a
- great watery valley, the river dividing itself into several streams,
- and frequently overflowing large quantities of the meadow: it seems
- well calculated to have been an old British town: they deal pretty
- much in leather here, and woollen manufactures of stockings, druggets,
- narrow cloth. Roman discoveries I could make little; but the name and
- distances seem to establish the matter: so I hastened through New
- Forest, where I found it necessary to steer by the compass, as at sea.
- They tell us at Wattonsford the memory of Tyrrel is still preserved,
- as passing over there when he unawares shot William Rufus. The soil
- is sand, gravel, stone, clay by parcels: these are pleasant solitudes
- for a contemplative traveller, did not the intricacies of the roads
- give one uneasiness. Here are whole acres of the most beautiful
- <em>fox-gloves</em> that one can see, rising upon a strong stem, adorned
- with numerous bell-flowers as high as one’s horse. Mr. Baxter has a
- right notion of this name, signifying <i lang="la">lemurum manicæ</i>, from the
- supposed fairies. I take these names, and foxes bells, and the like,
- to be reliques of the Druids, who did great cures by them; for this
- is a plant of powerful qualities, when prudently<span class="pagenum" id="Page_191">191</span> administered,
- in a constitution that will bear it. I observe we derive the names of
- very many plants from the old Celtic language, as I believe the Greeks
- and Latins did likewise. The king’s house, as called still, was at
- Lyndhurst: the duke of Bolton has a hunting-seat thereabouts. I rode
- through an old camp in the midst of the forest: it is overgrown with
- wood, seems to have been round: at bottom is a spring: no doubt but it
- is a British <span class="sidenote">Br. <i>oppidum</i>.</span><em>oppidum</em>. You may see Southampton from thence. They
- say the king was killed hereabouts. Here is a great plantation of young
- oaks, for the use of the crown: a great deal of fine oak-timber left;
- but the beech-trees are very stately and numerous.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>46·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <img src="images/i_190.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div>
- <figcaption><i>Prospect of</i> Ringwood <i>14 June 1724 <span class="smcap">Regnum</span>.</i></figcaption>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_191">
- <div class="plateno"><i>83</i></div>
- <img src="images/i_191.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div>
- <div><b>Prospect of <span class="smcap">Winchester</span> from the South 9 Sep. 1723.<br>
- <span class="allsmcap">VENTA</span> Belgarum.</b></div>
- <div><a href="#t_191">See transcription</a></div>
- </figure>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Arminis.</div>
-
- <p>Romsey was unquestionably a Roman town, and its present name shows as
- much. The church is a noble old pile of architecture, arched with stone
- in the form of a cross, with semi-circular chapels in the upper angles.
- These churches, hereabouts called minsters, were doubtless built by
- the Saxon kings as soon as they became christian: the manner of their
- structure is much like those built by queen Helena in Palestine: at
- the west end of it is a bit of an old wall, perhaps belonging to the
- nunnery built here by king Edgar. I heard of a silver Roman coin found
- here. This town is an old corporation, in situation extraordinary
- pleasant, having woods, corn-fields, meadows, pastures, around it in
- view: the river and rivulets, which are many, have a rapid course.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Venta Belgarum.</span></div>
-
- <p>Two miles before I came to Winchester, the downs of chalk begin
- again with barrows upon them. I saw several double ones. The walls
- of Winchester inclose a long square about 700 paces one way, 500 the
- other: it stands on the western declivity of a hill,<span class="sidenote">TAB. LXXXIII.</span> the river running
- below on the east. Many branches, and cuts of it too, pass through the
- midst of the city, and render their gardens very pleasant: the walls
- and gates, as repaired in times long after the Roman, and chiefly of
- flint, are pretty intire; no doubt, built upon the old Roman. In the
- higher part of the city is the castle, which overlooks the whole:<a id="FNanchor_138" href="#Footnote_138" class="fnanchor">[138]</a>
- here is a famed round table, where king Arthur’s knights used to sit. I
- saw some great ruins still left of the walls and towers that belonged
- to it; but the main of it was pulled down when Sir Christopher Wren
- projected the king’s palace there in king Charles the IId’s reign:
- it fronts the west end of the cathedral. The houses in the town were
- bought in order to make a street between both, which would have had a
- noble effect. This palace is a large pile of building, and beautiful,
- yet with all the plainness that was necessary to save an extravagant
- expence, or that became a royal retirement: it fills up three sides
- of a large square, so that the opening of the wings or front looks
- over the city: three tier of windows, twenty-six in a row, fill up
- every side externally, besides the fronton in the middle of each side,
- composed of four Corinthian pilasters: a handsome balustrade runs
- quite round the top: the inside of this open court is more elegant,
- and enriched with portico’s, &amp;c. the late duke of Tuscany gave some
- fine marble pillars towards the adorning it. A great bridge was to
- have been built across the foss in the principal front; and a garden,
- park, &amp;c. were to have been made before the back front: the citizens
- entertain great hopes, that since the happy increase of the royal
- family, this palace will be finished: it is of plain brick-work, but
- the window-cases, fascias, cornice, &amp;c. of good Portland stone. There
- is a great old chapel near it. This place was the residence of the
- potent kings of the West Saxons.</p>
-
- <p>The cathedral is a venerable and large pile: the tower in the middle
- and transept are of ancienter work than the choir and the body. Inigo
- Jones <span class="pagenum" id="Page_192">192</span>has erected a delicate screen of stone-work before the choir.
- Here was the burial-place of many Saxon and Norman kings, whose remains
- the impious soldiers in the civil wars threw against the painted glass:
- they show too the tomb of king Lucius. Queen Mary was here married to
- Philip of Spain: the chair used in that ceremony is still preserved.
- In the body of the church is a very ancient font, with odd sculptures
- round it. In the city is a pretty cross of Gothic workmanship, but ill
- repaired. Without the southern gate is a stately fabric, the college,
- erected and endowed by William of Wickham, bishop here, for education
- of youth. There is good painted glass of imagery in the chapel windows:
- in the middle of the cloysters is a strong stone building, the library,
- well contrived to prevent fire: the school is a more modern structure,
- handsome, with a very good statue of the founder over the door, made
- by Cibber. This country is intirely chalk, whence I suppose the name
- of <em>Venta</em>: the city is a genteel and pleasant place, and abounds
- with even the elegancies of life. Beyond the river eastward is a high
- hill, called St. Giles’s, from an hospital once there; now only some
- ruins of it to be seen, and a church-yard, seeming to have been a
- camp, beside the marks of bastions, and works of fortifications in the
- modern stile. Here Waltheof, earl of Northumberland and Huntingdon, was
- beheaded, by order of William I. whose body was carried to Crowland,
- and asserted to have miraculous virtues.</p>
-
- <p>In digging the foundation of a house near the college, in a stone
- coffin was found a stone set in a gold ring, with this inscription in
- very old characters, supposed about the sixth century.</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza" lang="la">
- <div class="i0"><i>Duce domino comite fidele meo.</i></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">A mile to the south of Winchester is a magnificent hospital, called
- Holy Cross, founded by bishop Blois: the church is in the form of a
- cross, and has a large square tower. Over it, on the other side the
- river, hangs a camp upon St. Catharine’s hill, with a <em>brachium</em>
- reaching down to the water side, for convenience of that element. The
- way between Winchester and Southampton we perceived plainly to be a
- Roman road, especially as far as the chalk reached: then we came to a
- forest where the soil is gravelly all the way.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Southampton.</div>
-
- <p>Southampton was strongly walled about with very large stones, full of
- those little white shells, like honey-combs, that grow upon the back
- of oysters: this is a sort of stone extremely hard, and seems to be
- gathered near the beach of the sea. These walls have many lunettes, and
- towers, in some places doubly ditched; but the sea encompasses near
- half the town: it was built in the time of king Edward III. I observe
- they have a method of breaking the force of the waves here, by laying a
- bank of sea-ore, as they call it: it is composed of long, slender, and
- strong filaments, like pilled hemp, very tough and durable; I suppose
- it is thrown up by the ocean: and this performs its work better than
- walls of stone, or natural cliff. At the south-east corner, near the
- quay, is a fort with some guns upon it, called the Tower: on one we saw
- this inscription,</p>
-
- <div class="center"><i>Henricus</i> VIII. <i>Anglie, Franciæ</i> &amp; <i>Hiberniæ rex,<br>
- fidei defensor invictissimus f. f.</i><br>
- MD. XXXXII. HR. VIII.</div>
-
- <p class="noindent">In the north-west corner was a strong castle with a mount, walled
- about at top, as a keep: upon this a round stone tower, with a
- winding ascent: the Anabaptists are about pulling it down, to build
- a meeting-house. The main of this town consists of one broad street,
- running through its length: <span class="pagenum" id="Page_193">193</span>there are many old religious ruins,
- and great warehouses, cellars, store-houses, &amp;c. but with their trade
- gone to decay. It was a great sea-port not long since, and had the
- sole privilege, by charter, of importing wine from France, till they
- foolishly sold it to the city of London.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_193_1">
- <div class="plateno"><i>80</i></div>
- <img src="images/i_193_1a.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="mb1"><b><span class="smcap">Portvs Magnvs</span> <i>12 Sep. 1723. Portchester</i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_193_1b.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley d.</i></div>
- <figcaption><i>View in the</i> Port.</figcaption>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_193_2">
- <div class="plateno"><i>79</i></div>
- <div><b><i>Prospect of</i> Southampton <i>from the East Sep 11. 1723.</i><br>
- <span class="smcap small">Travsantvm</span></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_193_2a.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="small mb1"><b>A. <i>S<sup>t</sup> Mary’s where the old</i> Trausantum <i>Stood</i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_193_2b.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley d.</i></div>
- <figcaption><i>Prospect from</i> Portsmouth</figcaption>
- </figure>
-
- <div class="sidenote smcap">Trausantum.</div>
-
- <p>The old Roman city stood more eastward, upon the banks of the river
- Itching coming from Winchester, where now is a hamlet called St.
- Mary’s. There is a handsome new church<span class="sidenote">TAB. LXXIX.</span> built upon the ruins of an old
- one, which they say was burnt in some French wars: it is near the
- present ferry and opposite to Bittern. Many antiquities have been found
- upon the site of the old city. Likewise at Bittern was an old Roman
- castle, surrounded by a ditch, into which the sea-water flowed: many
- antiquities likewise have hence been produced, of which Mr. Camden
- gives us an account. Perhaps the buildings on both sides the river
- were comprehended under one name of <em>Trausantum</em>; therefore this
- river must have been the <em>Antona</em>: it was ruined in the Danish
- wars, and Southampton arose from its ashes. This is the place memorable
- for the famous experiment of king Canute, who sitting upon the banks
- of the river, crowned and in regal robes, commanded the tide not to
- approach his footstool; but the ocean, like an unlimited monarch, was
- as regardless of his menaces, as the Hellespont, of Xerxes his bridles
- and fetters.</p>
-
- <p>Leaving this lesson of the perishing glory of monarchs and cities too,
- we journeyed to Portsmouth, an entertaining sight of the maritime
- majesty of Great Britain, in this point excelling the ancient Roman
- grandeur. Over a moory common we passed by Fareham, and by Portchester,
- a castle made out of a Roman city. We have little reason to doubt that
- this is the <span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Portus Magnus.</span></span><i lang="la">portus magnus</i> of Ptolemy, as it deserves to be
- called, where a thousand sail of the biggest ships may ride secure: the
- mouth of it is not so broad, as the Thames at Westminster, and that
- secured by numerous forts; on Gosport side, <span class="sidenote">TAB. LXXX.</span>Charles fort, James fort,
- Borough fort, which name seems to intimate a Roman citadel formerly
- there; Blockhouse fort, which has a platform of above twenty great guns
- level with the water: and on the other side, by Portsmouth, Southsea
- castle, built by Henry VIII. of a like model with those I saw near Deal
- upon the Kentish shore.</p>
-
- <p>Portsmouth is the most regular fortification, of the modern manner,
- which we have in England;<span class="sidenote">TAB. LXXIX.</span> a curious sight to those that have not been
- out of it. The government has bought more ground lately for additional
- works, and no doubt it is capable of being made impregnable; for
- a shallow water may be brought quite round it. Here is one of the
- greatest arsenals for the royal navy: above thirty men of war of the
- highest rates lie here, capable of being fitted out in less than a
- fortnight; among them, the Royal William, that can play off at once 120
- battering-rams of brass, infinitely more forceable than that famous
- one Titus used against the walls of Jerusalem. The yards, the docks,
- the store-houses, where all their furniture is laid up in the exactest
- order, so that the men can go in the dark and fetch out any individual,
- is a sight beyond imagination. The immense quantities of cables,
- masts and tackle, of great guns, bullets, bombs, carcasses, mortars,
- granado’s, &amp;c. these of all sorts and sizes, and the regular methods
- they are reposited in and distinguished by, are prodigious, and no
- where to be equalled but in England; for when I was informed that this
- place is outdone, in all the particulars, both at Chatham and Plymouth,
- there was no more room left for wonder. The Royal William’s mast is a
- noble piece of timber 124 foot long, and this is only the bottom part
- of the main mast; it is 36 inches diameter, clear timber: its lantern
- is like a summer-house: its great anchor and all accoutrements are
- equally astonishing.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_194">194</span> The rope-house is 870 foot long, one continued
- room, almost a quarter of a mile: we chanced to have the pleasure of
- seeing a great cable made here; it requires 100 men to work at it, and
- so hard the labour, that they can work but four hours in a day. The
- least complement of men continually employed in the yard is a thousand,
- and that but barely sufficient ordinarily to keep the naval affairs
- in good repair. But I have talked enough of matters so much out of my
- sphere. I was sorry to leave this amazing scene of naval grandeur, with
- the shocking sight of a wretched statue of king William, gilt indeed in
- an extraordinary manner; but of all the bad works in this fort, I have
- seen, it is the very last. From Portsmouth there is a fine prospect of
- the isle of Wight, famous for Vespasian’s first attempts in subduing
- the southern parts of Britain: its beautiful elevations, some woody,
- some downy, its towns, havens and white cliffs, at this distance, seem
- to persuade one it is an epitome of Great Britain, as that of the
- world; or that Nature made it as an essay, or copy, of her greater and
- more finished work. Before I leave Portsmouth I shall set down this
- catalogue of the British fleet as it stands this present year, given
- me by an officer; by which some people, fond of magnifying the mimic
- endeavours of some other powers, may calculate, if they please, when
- such will come up to rival it.</p>
-
- <table class="small">
- <thead>
- <tr>
- <th>Rates.</th>
- <th>Guns.</th>
- <th>N<sup>o</sup> of each rate.</th>
- <th>Complement of<br>men to each.</th>
- </tr>
- </thead>
- <tbody>
- <tr>
- <td><i>1st.</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>100</div></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>7</div></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div style="margin-right: 3.5em;">780</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><i>2d.</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>90</div></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>13</div></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div style="margin-right: 3.5em;">680</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td rowspan="2"><i>3d.</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>80</div></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>16</div></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div style="margin-right: 3.5em;">520</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>70</div></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>24</div></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div style="margin-right: 3.5em;">440</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>———</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div style="margin-right: 1.5em;">60</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>———</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td rowspan="2"><i>4th.</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>60</div></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>18</div></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div style="margin-right: 3.5em;">365</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>50</div></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>46</div></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div style="margin-right: 3.5em;">280</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>———</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div style="margin-right: 1.5em;">124</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>———</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td rowspan="2"><i>5th.</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>40</div></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>24</div></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div style="margin-right: 3.5em;">190</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>30</div></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>4</div></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div style="margin-right: 3.5em;">155</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>———</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div style="margin-right: 1.5em;">152</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>———</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><i>6th.</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>20</div></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>27</div></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div style="margin-right: 3.5em;">130</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>———</div></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div style="margin-right: 3.5em;">———</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div style="margin-right: 1.5em;">179</div></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div style="margin-right: 3.5em;">3540</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>———</div></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div style="margin-right: 3.5em;">———</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="3">&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdc"><div>The whole complement<br>of men 55720.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Fire-ships</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>3</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Bombs</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>3</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Sloops</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>13</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Yachts</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>12</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Hoys</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>11</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Smacks</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>2</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Hulks</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>7</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Store-ships</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>1</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Hospital-ships</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>1</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>———</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div style="margin-right: 1.5em;">232</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- </tr>
- </tbody>
- </table>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_195_1">
- <div class="plateno"><i>82</i></div>
- <div><b><i>Prospect of</i> Portsmouth, <i>the Isle of Wight Gosport, Portchester &amp;c. Sep. 13. 1723.</i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_195_1a.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="small mb1"><b>A. <i>The Isle of Wight.</i>&nbsp; B. <i>Southsea Castle.</i>&nbsp; D. <i>Portsmouth.</i>&nbsp; E. <i>Landgard fort.</i>&nbsp;
- F. <i>Gosport.</i>&nbsp; G. <i>Portchester.</i>&nbsp; H. <i>Portsdown hill.</i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_195_1b.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div>
- <figcaption class="small"><i>Prospect of</i> Chichester <i>Sep. 14. 1723.</i></figcaption>
- </figure>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp92 mb4" id="i_195_2">
- <div class="plateno"><i>81</i></div>
- <div><b><span class="smcap">Mantantonis</span><br>
- <i>Sep. 14. 1723.</i></b></div>
- <img class="mt2" src="images/i_195_2.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="left">
- <ol class="alpha left inline small">
- <li><i>Where the Roman Temple stood</i></li>
- <li><i>Grey-fryers</i></li>
- <li><i>Black fryers</i></li>
- <li><i>S<sup>t</sup>. Marys Hospital</i></li>
- </ol>
- </div>
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley Delin.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>Parker Sculp<sup>t</sup>.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_195">195</span></p>
-
- <p>I observed, the great quantity of water and ditches about this place
- is apt to render it aguish. The reader will excuse me from giving
- any description of the fortifications here, for the same reason that
- I did not offer to draw any thing; but passing by draw-bridges,
- bastions, gates, fosses, counterscarps, &amp;c. we repeated our steps to
- the Ports-down hills, which are of chalk, and at a reasonable distance
- from the shore extend themselves into Sussex; leaving to the south a
- less elevated, woody, and rich country. Here we turned to admire the
- delightful view of the ground we had passed, and that we were going to:
- the ports, creeks, bays, the ocean, the castles fixt, and those moving
- on the water, the isle of Wight in its full extent, all lay before us,
- and under the eye, as in a map: Portchester, Gosport, which is a very
- considerable town, Portsmouth, Southampton, Chichester, and all the
- sea-coast from Portland isle to the <span class="sidenote">TAB. LXXXII.</span>Sussex coasts, were taken in at one
- ken. I took a little sketch of it in passing, in <a href="#i_195_1">plate 82</a>.</p>
-
- <p>We found some of the Roman way upon this ridge, which I suppose went
- through Fareham and Havant, between <em>Trausantum</em> and Chichester,
- with a vicinal turning out to Portchester: it goes east and west.
- We passed by a large long barrow. We were led to Chichester by the
- fame of a most ancient inscription lately discovered there, whereof
- transcripts were handed about, that appeared not exact enough: this has
- revived the lustre of Chichester; for, though the termination of its
- name, and a Roman road called Stane-street coming to it, is evidence
- sufficient of its being a Roman city, yet none has positively affirmed
- it, because we have not hitherto been able to assign it a name. Mr.
- Camden satisfied himself that it owed its name and foundation to Cissa,
- the South-Saxon king. It is probable the city was destroyed soon after
- the Romans evacuated this kingdom, either in the wars between the
- Britons and first Saxons, or by the plundering Danes, who ravaged all
- the sea-coasts; so that its name was utterly forgot: but Cissa becoming
- master of this country, and there chusing to fix his seat, repaired
- the ancient castle or walls, whose <em>vestigia</em> were of too lasting
- materials wholly to have lost the appearance of their workmanship: then
- it was natural enough to prefix his name to this Roman termination, by
- which the Saxons always called castles of the Romans: or it might be
- simply called <em>caster</em>, <em>chester</em>, as was frequent in other
- places, till he restored it; and then it took his name, importing
- <em>Cissa’s chester</em>: but had it been originally founded by him, it
- would never have assumed that adjunct.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote">TAB. LXXXI.</div>
-
- <p>I doubt not but the walls of the present city are built upon the
- old Roman foundations chiefly. It is of a roundish form, the river
- running under part of the walls. Two principal streets cross it at
- right angles upon the cardinal points, where stands a curious cross
- erected by bishop Read. The church takes up one of these quadrants: it
- is remarkable for two side-ailes on both sides, and the pictures of
- all the kings and queens of England since Cissa, which are hung upon
- the wall of the southern transept; all the bishops on the opposite
- wall. Eastward of the cathedral is a place called the <em>Pallant</em>,
- which seems derived from the Latin <em>palatium</em>. In the middle
- of North-street was dug up this memorable inscription, which I have
- printed in <a href="#i_148_1">plate 49</a>. To your explication of it nothing can be added:
- the reader and myself will be obliged to you for the leave you have
- given me here to insert it. It was happy we took great care in
- transcribing the letters; for, since it has been in the possession
- of the duke of Richmond, I hear a workman, who pretended to set the
- fragments together, has defaced it.</p>
-
- <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_196">196</span></p>
-
- <h3><i>An Account of a</i> ROMAN INSCRIPTION <i>found at</i> Chichester.<br>
- <i>By</i> <span class="smcap">Roger Gale</span>, <i>Esq.</i></h3>
-
- <div class="sidenote">TAB. XLIX.</div>
-
- <p class="drop-cap">THIS inscription, as curious as any that has yet been discovered in
- Britain, was found, the beginning of last April, at Chichester, in
- digging a cellar under the corner house of St. Martin’s lane, on the
- north side, as it comes into North-street. It lay about four foot
- under ground, with the face upwards: by which it had the misfortune
- to receive a great deal of damage from the picks of the labourers, as
- they endeavoured to raise it; for, besides the defacing of several
- letters, what was here disinterred of the stone was broke into four
- pieces: the other part of it, still wanting, is, in all probability,
- buried under the next house, and will not be brought to light till
- that happens to be rebuilt. The inscription is cut upon a grey Sussex
- marble, the length of which was six Roman feet, as may be conjectured
- by measuring it from the middle of the word TEMPLVM to that end of it
- which is intire, and is not altogether three foot English, from the
- point mentioned: the breadth of it is 2 and ¾ of the same feet; the
- letters beautifully and exactly drawn; those in the two first lines
- three inches long, and the rest 2¼.</p>
-
- <p>Being at Chichester in September last with Dr. Stukeley, we took an
- accurate view of this marble, which is now fixed in the wall under
- a window within the house where it was found; and, that we might be
- as sure of the true reading as possible, wherever the letters were
- defaced, we impressed a paper with a wet sponge into them, and by that
- means found those in the fifth line to have been as we have expressed
- them above, and not as in other copies that have been handed about of
- this inscription.</p>
-
- <p>The only letter wanting in the first line is an N before EPTVNO, and
- so no difficulty in reading that. As to the second, though it was more
- usual, in inscriptions of this nature, to express the donation by the
- word SACRVM only, referring to the <em>temple</em>, or <em>altar</em>,
- dedicated; yet we have so many instances, in Gruter’s <cite>Corpus
- Inscriptionum</cite>, of TEMPLVM and ARAM also cut on the stones, that
- there is not the least occasion to say any thing farther upon that
- point.</p>
-
- <p>The third line can be no other way filled up, than as I have done it by
- the pricked letters: I must own, however, that I have had some scruple
- about the phrase of DOMVS DIVINA, the same thing as DOMVS AVGVSTA, the
- <em>imperial family</em>; which I cannot say occurs, with any certainty
- of the time it was used in, before the reign of Antoninus Pius, from
- whom, down to Constantine the Great, it is very frequently met with in
- inscriptions. This kept me some time in suspence, whether this found
- at Chichester could be of so early a date as the time of Claudius: but
- as we find several inscriptions in Gruter with those words in them,
- or I. H. D. D. <i lang="la">In Honorem Domus Divinæ</i>, which is much the same
- thing, without any mark of the time when they were cut, they may have
- been before the reign of Antoninus Pius, and then only came into more
- general use; and as the time that Cogidunus lived in, will not let
- this be of a later standing, I think we may offer it as an authority
- for the use of this piece of flattery to the emperors long before that
- excellent prince came to the purple.</p>
-
- <p>The third line, as I believe, was EX AVCTORITATE. TIB. CLAVD. and
- the fourth COGIDVBNI. R. LEG. &amp;c. that is, <i lang="la">Ex auctoritate Tiberii
- Claudii Cogidubni regis, legati Augusti in Britannia</i>; for the
- following reasons: we are informed by Tacitus, <i lang="la">in vita Agricolæ</i>,
- <i>cap.</i> 14. that after<span class="pagenum" id="Page_197">197</span> Britain had been reduced to a Roman
- province by the successful arms of Aulus Plautius, and Ostorius
- Scapula, under the emperor Claudius, <i lang="la">Quædam civitates</i> Cogiduno
- Regi <i lang="la">erant donatæ, is ad nostram usque memoriam fidissimus remansit,
- vetere ac jam pridem recepta Populi Romani consuetudine ut haberet
- instrumenta servitutis</i> &amp; Reges. This <em>Cogidunus</em> seems to be
- the same person as <em>Cogidubnus</em> in our inscription, the letter
- B in the third syllable making little or no difference in the word,
- especially if pronounced soft, as it ought to be, like a V consonant.</p>
-
- <p>It is so well known to have been the custom of the Roman <em>Liberti</em>
- and <em>Clientes</em>, to take the names of their patrons and
- benefactors, it would be wasting of time to prove the constant usage of
- that practice. Now, as this <em>Cogidubnus</em>, who in all probability
- was a petty prince of that part of the <em>Dobuni</em> which had
- submitted to Claudius, and one that continued many years faithful to
- him and the Romans, (<i lang="la">vide Tacit. ut supra</i>) had given him the
- government of some part of the island by that emperor, nothing could be
- more grateful in regard to Claudius, nor more honourable to himself,
- after he was <em>romanised</em>, than to take the names of a benefactor
- to whom he was indebted for his kingdom, and so call himself TIBERIVS
- CLAVDIVS COGIDVBNVS.</p>
-
- <p>I suppose him to have been a <em>Regulus</em> of the <em>Dobuni</em>;
- because we are told by Dion Cassius (<em>in lib.</em> lx.) that Aulus
- Plautius having put to flight Cataratacus and <em>Togodumnus</em>,
- sons of Cunobelin, part of the <em>Boduni</em> (the same people as the
- <em>Dobuni</em>) who were subject to the <em>Catuellani</em>, submitted
- to the Romans; and the name <em>Cogidubnus</em>, or <em>Cogiduvnus</em>,
- <span class="antiqua">Coc o Dubn</span>, or <span class="antiqua">Duvn</span>, (<i lang="la">vid. Baxteri Glossar. in
- verbis</i> Cogidumnus, &amp; Dobuni) signifying expresly in the British
- language PRINCEPS DOBVNORVM, seems to put the matter out of all doubt.</p>
-
- <p>How far his territories extended, it is impossible to define. Bishop
- Stillingfleet, <cite>Orig. Britan.</cite> p. 63. supposes them to have
- lain in Surrey and Sussex. Sussex certainly was part of them, since
- the temple mentioned in this inscription was erected in it by his
- authority; and it is not unlikely, that besides the <em>Regni</em>,
- who were the people of those two counties, he might have that part
- of the <em>Dobuni</em> which had submitted to the Romans, and seems to
- have been his own principality, together with the <em>Ancalites</em>,
- <em>Bibroci</em> and <em>Segontiaci</em>, whose countries lay between
- the <em>Dobuni</em> and the <em>Regni</em>, bestowed upon him; the words
- <i lang="la">civitates quædam</i>, in Tacitus, not importing no more than some
- <em>few towns</em>, but <em>several people</em>; the word <em>civitas</em>
- always signifying a <em>people</em> in that historian.</p>
-
- <p>Before I proceed any farther, it will not be amiss to observe, that
- <em>Togodumnus</em> and <em>Cogidubnus</em>, though their names are so
- much alike, were two distinct persons: the first was son of Cunobelin,
- king of the <em>Trinobantes</em>, vanquished and killed in battle by
- Aulus Plautius; the second, a prince that submitted to Ostorius
- Scapula, and continued in his fidelity to the Romans, <i lang="la">in nostram
- usque memoriam</i>, says Tacitus, who was born at the latter end of
- Claudius’s reign; so that <em>Togodumnus</em> was probably dead before
- <em>Cogidubnus</em> had his government conferred upon him.</p>
-
- <p>I call it his government; for though, by the letter ·R· standing in the
- inscription with a point both before and after it, by which it plainly
- denotes an intire word of itself, it may seem that it was intended for
- COGIDVBNI REGIS, and I believe was so in respect of his <em>quondam</em>
- dignity, yet it is evident, that he had condescended to take the title
- of LEGATVS AVGVSTI IN BRITANNIA from Claudius: and that too must have
- been only over those people that he had given him the government of;
- Aulus Plautius, Ostorius Scapula, Didius Gallus, Avitus Veranius,
- and Suetonius<span class="pagenum" id="Page_198">198</span> Paullinus, having the supreme command successively
- about this time in this island, the second and last of which are
- called expresly <em>Legati</em> by Tacitus, <em>lib.</em> xii. <em>Ann.
- cap.</em> 23. &amp; <em>Vit. Agric. cap.</em> 15. The <em>Legati Cæsaris</em>,
- or <em>Augusti,</em> were those <i lang="la">qui Cæsaribus subditas regebant
- Provincias</i>.</p>
-
- <p>The sixth line has lost at the beginning the letters COLLE; but so much
- remains of the word, as makes it to have been indubitably, when intire,
- COLLEGIVM; and the following letters are an abbreviation of FABRORVM.</p>
-
- <p>These colleges of artificers were very ancient at Rome, as ancient as
- their second king Numa Pompilius, if we may believe Plutarch (<cite>in
- vit. Numæ</cite>) who tells us, that the people were divided by him into
- what we at this day call <em>Companies of Tradesmen</em>, and mentions
- the Τέκτονες or <em>Fabri</em> among them; though Floras (<i>lib.</i>
- i. <i>cap.</i> 6.) says, that <em>Populus Romanus a</em> Servio Tullio
- <i lang="la">relatus suit in Censum, digestus in Classes, Curiis atque</i>
- Collegiis <i lang="la">distributus</i>. But as the power of the Romans extended
- itself, it carried the arts of that great people along with it, and
- improved the nations that it subdued, by civilizing, and teaching
- them the use of whatever was necessary or advantageous among their
- conquerors; from which most wise and generous disposition, among other
- beneficial institutions, we find these <em>Collegia</em> to have been
- established in every part of the empire, from the frequent mention
- of them in the inscriptions collected by Gruter, Spon, and other
- antiquaries.</p>
-
- <p>Several sorts of workmen were included under the name of <em>Fabri</em>,
- particularly all those that were concerned in any kind of building;
- whence we meet with the <em>Fabri Ferrarii</em>, <em>Lignarii</em>,
- <em>Tignarii</em>, <em>Materiarii</em>, <em>Navales</em>, and others: the
- last named may have been the authors of dedicating this temple to
- Neptune, having so near a relation to the sea, from which the city
- of Chichester is at so small a distance, that perhaps that arm of it
- which still comes up within two miles of its walls, might formerly
- have washed them. The rest of the fraternity might very well pay the
- same devotion to Minerva, the Goddess of all arts and sciences, and
- patroness of the Dædalian profession.</p>
-
- <p>As no less than five letters are wanting at the beginning of the sixth
- line, there cannot be fewer lost at the beginning of the seventh,
- where the stone is more broke away than above; so that probably there
- were six when it was perfect. What we have left of them is only the
- top of an S: I will not therefore take upon me to affirm any thing
- as to the reading of them, which is so intirely defaced: perhaps
- it was A. SACR. S. <i lang="la">a sacris sunt</i>; perhaps it was HONOR. S.
- <i lang="la">Honorati sunt</i>: as to the former, we find these <em>Collegia</em>
- had their <em>Sacerdotes</em>; therefore <i lang="la">Qui a sacris sunt</i>, which
- is found in inscriptions, (<cite>vid. Grut. Corp.</cite> xxix. 8. cxxi.
- <span class="smcap">i. dcxxxii. i.</span>) would be no improper term to express them;
- or it might have been SACER. S. <em>sacerdotes sunt</em>, since we find
- such mentioned in the following inscriptions. <cite>Spon. Miscell. Erud.
- Antiq.</cite> p. 58.</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza gesperrt1" lang="la">
- <div class="i0">MAVORTI SACRVM</div>
- <div class="i0">HOC SIGNVM</div>
- <div class="i0">RESTIT _ _ _ _ _</div>
- <div class="i0">COLL. FABR. ARI</div>
- <div class="i0">CINORVM ANTIQVISS.</div>
- <div class="i0">VETVSTATE</div>
- <div class="i0">DILAPSVM ET</div>
- <div class="i0">REFECER. CVR. L. LVCILIVS</div>
- <div class="i0">LATINVS PROC. R. P. ARIC.</div>
- <div class="i0">ET T. SEXTIVS MAGGIVS</div>
- <div class="i0">SACER. COLL. EIVSD.</div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_199">199</span></p>
-
- <p lang="la"><i>Mavorti sacrum hoc Signum restituit Collegium</i> Fabrorum
- Aricinorum <i>Antiquissimum, vetustate dilapsum, &amp; refecerunt. Curabant
- Lucius Lucilius Latinus, Procurator Reipublicæ Aricinorum, &amp; Titus
- Sextius Maggius</i> Sacerdos <i>Collegii ejusdem</i>,</p>
-
- <p>Ibid. p. 64.</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza gesperrt1" lang="la">
- <div class="i0">L. TERTENI AMANTI</div>
- <div class="i0">SACER. COLL. LOTORVM</div>
- <div class="i0">IIVIR. C. SARTIVS C. F.</div>
- <div class="i0">ITERINVS ET L. ALLIVS</div>
- <div class="i0">PETELINVS D. D.</div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p><i lang="la">Lucius Tertenius Amantius</i> Sacerdos <i>Collegii Lotorum, Duumviri
- Caius Sartius, Caii Filius, Iterinus, &amp; Lucius Allius Petelinus
- Dedicaverunt</i>.</p>
-
- <p>As to the latter, those members of the college that had passed through
- the chief Offices of it, as that of <em>Præfectus</em>, or <em>Magister
- quinquennalis</em>, had the title of HONORATI conferred upon them: you
- have several of these HONORATI mentioned in Gruter, particularly a
- long catalogue of them <i lang="la">in Collegio Fabrorum Tignariorum</i>, p.
- <span class="smcap">cclxviii. i.</span> and in Reinesius’s <em>Syntagma</em>, p. 605. there
- is an inscription,</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza" lang="la">
- <div class="i0 gesperrt1">EPAGATHO TVRANNO</div>
- <div class="i0 gesperrt1">HONORATO COLLEGI</div>
- <div class="i0 gesperrt1">FABRVM TIGNARIORVM</div>
- <div class="i0"><span class="gesperrt1">ROMANENSIVM </span><i>&amp;c.</i></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p>So that the vacuity in our inscription may very well have been filled
- up with one or other of these words; and the three next letters that
- follow them, D. S. D. <i lang="la">de suo dedicaverunt</i>, will agree with
- either of them, and what precedes them.</p>
-
- <p>The last line has been PVDENTE PVDENTINI FILio: but there must have
- been a letter or two of the <em>prænomen</em> at the beginning of it,
- unless it was shorter than the rest at that, as well as at the latter
- end of it: and from what I have said, the whole may be read as follows:</p>
-
- <blockquote>
- <p><i lang="la">Neptuno &amp; Minervæ Templum pro Salute Domus Divinæ, ex Auctoritate
- Tiberii Claudii Cogidubni Regis, Legati Augusti in Brittanniâ,
- Collegium Fabrorum, &amp; Qui in eo a Sacris [or Honorati] sunt, De suo
- Dedicaverunt, Donante aream Pudente Pudentini Filio.</i></p>
-
- <p>Chichester, by this inscription found at it, must have been a town of
- eminence very soon after the Romans had settled here, and in process
- of time seems to have been much frequented, by the Roman roads, still
- visible, that terminate here from Portsmouth, Midhurst, and Arundel;
- though, what is very strange, we have no Roman name now for it. I once
- thought it might have put in its claim for <em>Anderida</em>, which our
- antiquaries have not yet agreed to fix any where, being situated, very
- near, both to the <em>Sylva Anderida</em>, and the <em>southern Coast</em>
- of the island, the two properties of that city: <i>vid.</i> Camb. Brit.
- and Somner’s Roman Ports and Forts. But Henry of Huntingdon, who lived
- in the time of Henry II. telling us, that the Saxons so destroyed
- <em>Andredecester</em>, that <i lang="la">Nunquam postea reædificata fuit, &amp; locus
- tantum quasi nobilissimæ urbis transeuntibus ostenditur desolatus</i>,
- pag. 312. (<i>Vid.</i> Dr. Tabor’s Discourse of <em>Anderida</em>,
- Philos. Transact. N<sup>o</sup> 356.) it could not be Chichester; for that was
- not only rebuilt before his time, but was a place of such note, that
- when the bishops, soon after the Conquest, anno Dom. 1076. removed
- their churches from small decayed towns, where<span class="pagenum" id="Page_200">200</span> several of them were
- then seated, <i lang="la">in urbes celebriores</i>, Stigand, then bishop of
- Selsey, settled his episcopal chair at that place.</p>
-
- <p>I shall conclude with observing, that when this inscription was dug
- up, there were also two walls of stone discovered close by it, three
- foot thick each, one running north, the other east, and joining in an
- angle, as the North-street and St. Martin’s lane now turn, which, in
- all probability, were part of the foundations of the temple mentioned
- on the marble.</p>
-
- <div class="right">October 31. 1723.</div>
- </blockquote>
-
- <p>To this judicious elucidation of the inscription I have nothing to
- add, but that it seems to me probable enough, that Pudens, mentioned
- therein to have given the ground upon which the temple was built, was
- that Aulus Pudens who married the famous British lady Claudia Rufina,
- celebrated for her wit, beauty and eloquence. There is room enough in
- the stone to suppose the letter A at least, as his <em>prænomen</em> was
- in that part which is lost. <i lang="la">Moncæius de incunab. regiis eccles.
- christ. vet. Britann.</i> thinks Claudia, mentioned by St. Paul,<a id="FNanchor_139" href="#Footnote_139" class="fnanchor">[139]</a>
- 2 Tim. iv. 21. was daughter of the renowned Caratacus, converted to
- christianity by him, and married to this Pudens, a Roman Senator. But
- this may be judged rather too early, on account of the time of St.
- Paul’s death, and that wherein Martial lived, who wrote two elegant
- epigrams upon her; and we may with more likelihood conclude her to be
- the daughter of our <em>Cogidunus</em>, who lived to Tacitus his time,
- which was the same as Martial’s: and there is equal reason for the name
- of Claudia to be given her in honour of Claudius the emperor, as for
- the king her father taking the same upon himself, as appears in this
- inscription. Martial’s first epigram upon her is the 13th in his IV.
- <i>L.</i> thus,</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza" lang="la">
- <div class="i0"><i>Claudia, Rufe, meo nupsit peregrina Pudenti</i></div>
- <div class="i2"><i>Macte esto tædis o hymenæe tuis</i> &amp;c.</div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">We may well imagine this was wrote in the reign of Domitian, by the
- first epigram in that book being in honour of that emperor’s birth day;
- and sixteen years at least must have passed between that and the time
- of St. Paul’s death, which happened the last year of Nero. The other
- epigram is the 54th of XI. <i>L.</i></p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry">
- <div class="stanza" lang="la">
- <div class="i0"><i>Claudia cœruleis cum sit Rufina Britannis</i></div>
- <div class="i2"><i>Edita, cur Latiæ pectora plebis habet?</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Quale decus formæ! Romanam credere matres</i></div>
- <div class="i2"><i>Italides possunt, Atthides esse suam.</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Dî bene, quod sancto peperit fæcunda marito</i></div>
- <div class="i2"><i>Quot sperat generos, quotque puella nurus.</i></div>
- <div class="i0"><i>Sic placeat superis, ut conjuge gaudeat uno,</i></div>
- <div class="i2"><i>Et semper natis gaudeat illa tribus.</i></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <p class="noindent">We may conclude, that if she had been of age sufficient to be converted
- by St. Paul, she would about this time have been too old to have
- children, and be accounted beautiful. But times and all circumstances
- conspire sufficiently to make her the daughter of <em>Cogidunus</em>.</p>
-
- <p>Famous was the contest between Neptune and Minerva in naming the city
- of Athens, which they referred to the umpire of Apollo: he, to avoid
- the <em>odium</em> of appearing partial on either side, left it to the
- decision of mortal men, as Varro tells us: howsoever, these two deities
- are happily reconciled in a joint partnership of the dedication of this
- temple. The antiquaries are still <span class="pagenum" id="Page_201">201</span>at variance about the ancient name
- of this city. Therefore, Sir, that I may not be wholly an unworthy
- fellow-traveller, <i lang="la">passibus etsi longe inequalibus</i>, I shall
- venture, if Minerva is not averse, to offer my thoughts towards a
- recovery of the Roman denomination of Chichester, which appears plainly
- to have been an eminent and early station: though the journey of
- Antoninus reaches it not, yet it would be strange if Ravennas should
- have passed it by, who is very particular in this part of the island.</p>
-
- <p>I observe the river this city stands upon is called <em>Lavant</em>.
- There are three towns synonymous higher up, East, West, and Middle
- Lavant; whence I think we may conclude, that the true and original
- name of the river was <em>Antona</em>, not an uncommon appellative of
- such in the Celtic dialect: Mr. Baxter, voce <em>Anderida</em>, calls
- it <em>Ant</em>. Likewise a town called <em>Hampnet</em> stands upon
- it, which seems some corruption of <em>Antona</em>. Now there are two
- rivers of this name falling into the southern ocean; that which we
- spoke of lately, the Itchin, running by <em>Trausantum</em>; and this
- we are upon: therefore it appears natural and necessary that they
- should some way or other be distinguished from one another: the former
- <em>Trausantum</em>, Mr. Baxter, voce <em>Antona</em>, says signifies
- the farther <em>Antona</em>; and in this same sense, but in a later
- manner, Ninius calls it <em>Trahannon</em>; as our monk Ravennas,
- <em>Onna</em>, by a softer pronunciation. Our river then must be the
- hither or nearer <em>Antona</em>, however actually distinguished;
- which we must find out. Looking into that author generally called
- <em>Anonymus</em>, though I suppose his true name is <em>Ravennas</em>, as
- born there, (it being at that time the method of the ecclesiastics to
- take the sirname of their native towns) he thus mentions some cities
- hereabouts: <em>Caleba Atrebatum</em>, <em>Anderesio</em>, <em>Miba</em>,
- <span class="sidenote smcap">Mantantonis.</span><em>Mutuantonis</em>, <em>Lemanis</em>, <em>Dubris</em>, <i>&amp;c.</i> Now I
- imagine <em>Mutuantonis</em> is the place here sought for. <span class="sidenote">TAB. LXXXI.</span>This author
- probably transcribed these names from inspection of a map, sometimes
- casting his eye along a road, sometimes a river, sea-coast or the like,
- and sometimes <em>per saltum</em>: when he has been reciting many names
- of cities in the inland parts as far as <em>Corinium Dobunorum</em>,
- or Cirencester, he returns to the south-east part of the island, and
- begins a new period, as above. Directly in his way to the sea-coasts
- is <em>Caleba</em>, or Farnham, as I shall show in proper place: next
- is <em>Anderida</em>; which cannot be this place, for the reason you
- brought out of Henry of Huntingdon: no doubt it is somewhere upon the
- Sussex coast; but its particular site I shall not take upon me now to
- determine. <em>Miba</em> is with good reason thought to be Midhurst;
- then very naturally follows <em>Mutuantonis</em>, our Chichester: hence
- he takes his route eastward towards <em>Lemanis</em>, <em>Dubris</em>,
- <i>&amp;c.</i> in Kent. In short, the evidence is this: the author is
- plainly describing these parts; and where should <em>Mutuantonis</em>
- stand, but upon the river <em>Antona</em>? and it does not appear, that
- any other river hereabouts is so called; or, if it did, <em>Anderida</em>
- may very well thither be referred, which cannot possibly to this place.
- I take the name of <em>lavant</em>, or <em>mutuant</em>, to be synonymous
- words in the British language, to distinguish it, as we said, from
- <em>trausant</em>;, for <em>llafar</em> signifies <em>sonorous</em>,
- <em>loquax</em>; and <em>mwth</em> is <em>citus</em>, <em>velox</em>; either of
- which, prefixed to <em>Antona</em>, describe this rapid or noisy river;
- and in effect we find it remarkably so. Dr. Holland in his notes at
- the bottom of Mr. Camden expresly observes, that this river, though
- sometimes quite dry, at others, and that very often in the midst of
- summer, is so full as to run very violently: this, no doubt, is owing
- to its rise in the neighbouring high grounds to the north; for from
- them it must needs fall with an impetuous torrent. Further, it may
- possibly be derived from the British <em>llai minor</em>, signifying the
- <em>lesser Antona</em>, from its short course; the consonant <i>v</i>,
- or <i>f</i> which is its<span class="pagenum" id="Page_202">202</span> equivalent, being interposed <i lang="la">euphoniæ
- gratia</i>: or if Mr. Baxter’s correction of <em>Mantantonis</em> be
- thought just, then it signifies the mouth of the river <em>Antona</em>;
- and Chichester now stands very near its inlet into the sea, and
- formerly nearer. What way soever we take it, it seems reasonable to
- conclude this is the place. Though it was not properly a sea-port town,
- yet it is plainly near enough for the establishment of the <i lang="la">collegium
- fabrorum</i> here; and the vast plenty of wood from the adjoining
- forest favoured their work, whether of timber or the forge. Since
- this inscription, there was found a Mosaic pavement in Mrs. Downes’s
- garden; and when that was pulled in pieces as usual, a brass coin was
- discovered under it of Nero and Drusus Cæs. on one side, represented
- on horseback; on the other, <cite>C. Cæsar Divi aug. pron. aug. p. m. tr.
- p.</cite> <span class="allsmcap">IIII.</span> <i>pp.</i> which no doubt was there deposited to
- show the <em>æra</em> of that work.</p>
-
- <p>A little way out of the city northward, we passed by a Roman camp,
- called Brill, I suppose Bury hill, in Ogilby’s maps called <em>Beauty’s
- bank</em>: the Roman road called Stone-street causeway, goes directly
- north-east from hence through this country, and by Darking church-yard
- in Surrey; <span class="sidenote">TAB. LXXXII.</span>then falls into the Hermen-street at Woodcote.</p>
-
- <p>St. Roc’s hill is a fine elevation, with a spacious circular camp
- on the top, of a round form, a <i lang="la">castrum æstivum</i>, belonging to
- <em>Mantantonis</em>. Here is a foundation of a chapel, or a beacon,
- perhaps both: the reader may gather an idea of the view here from
- <span class="sidenote">TAB. XLIII.</span><a href="#i_150">plate 43</a>. At Midhurst is a fine old seat called Cowdrey, belonging
- to the Browns viscount Montacute: it stands in a valley incompassed
- with lawns, hills and woods, thrown into a park, the river running
- underneath. It is a large house of stone, consisting of one court:
- the hall is cieled of Irish oak after the ancient manner; <span class="sidenote smcap">Mida.</span>the walls
- painted with architecture by Roberti, the statues by Goupé, the
- stair-case by Pelegrini: the room at the end of the hall is of
- Holbein’s painting, where that famous old artist has described the
- exploits of Henry VIII. before Bulloign, Calais, his landing at
- Portsmouth, his magnificent entry into London, &amp;c. In the other rooms
- are many excellent pictures of the ancestors of the family, and other
- history-painting of Holbein’s, relating to their actions in war. The
- whole circuit of rooms above stairs are stately and well furnished,
- adorned with many pictures: there is a long gallery with the twelve
- apostles as big as the life; another very neat one, wainscotted with
- Norway oak, where are many ancient whole-length pictures of the family
- in their proper habits, which is a very elegant notion: there are four
- history pieces; two copies of Raphael’s marriage of Cupid and Psyche;
- several old religious and military paintings from Battle-abbey. The
- road to Midhurst to us appeared Roman, and therefore strengthens the
- supposition of its being <em>Mida</em>.</p>
-
- <p>St. Roc’s hill is upon the chalky down running east and west: north
- of it to Farnham it is sandy, full of <em>erica</em>; but the valleys
- are rich, warm and woody. The heaths between Farnham and Godalmin are
- full of barrows. Ferndon hill in the way to Godalmin is very steep
- northwards, and of an hour’s descent; which you rise to insensibly: it
- runs east and west.</p>
-
- <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Calleva Atrebatum.</span></div>
-
- <div class="sidenote">TAB. XLIV. 2d Vol.</div>
-
- <p>At Farnham is the bishop of Winchester’s palace, a magnificent ancient
- structure of the castle-form, deeply moted, and strongly walled about,
- with towers at proper distance: it stands upon the edge of a hill,
- where is a fine park. One large and broad street of the town, below
- hill, fronts the castle; the main of the rest of the town consists of
- a long strait street crossing it at right angles, which is the Roman
- road coming from Winchester: the river runs parallel to it on the
- south: this is a fine rich soil<span class="pagenum" id="Page_203">203</span> with much sand in it, and has an
- extraordinary propriety for the growth of hops. This place I take to
- be the <em>Caleva Atrebatum</em>;<a id="FNanchor_140" href="#Footnote_140" class="fnanchor">[140]</a> which because it is a notion of
- my own advancing, it requires that I should a little enlarge upon it,
- and propose it to your discerning judgement. This has been hitherto
- matter of dispute among antiquaries, and I think cannot otherwise
- be settled than in fixing it at this place: it will make this VIIth
- journey of Antoninus and some more very clear, that otherwise labour
- under insuperable difficulties: therefore this I propose to be the true
- scheme of that journey.</p>
-
- <div class="center"><span class="gesperrt1">ITER </span>VII. <i>a Regno Londinium M. P.</i> XCVI. <i>sic</i></div>
-
- <table>
- <tbody>
- <tr>
- <td><i>Regnum</i></td>
- <td>Ringwood</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><i>Trausantum</i></td>
- <td>Southampton</td>
- <td>XX</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><i>Venta Belgarum</i></td>
- <td>Winchester</td>
- <td>X</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><i>Caleva Atrebatum</i></td>
- <td>Farnham</td>
- <td>XXII</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><i>Pontes</i></td>
- <td>Stanes</td>
- <td>XXII</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><i>Londinium</i></td>
- <td>London</td>
- <td>XXII</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td>
- <td>———</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><i>toto</i>,</div></td>
- <td>XCVI.</td>
- </tr>
- </tbody>
- </table>
-
- <p class="noindent">We have no difference in the copies, but in the sum total at top, which
- is owing only to a transposition of the letters C and X. therefore all
- we have to do is to find out the towns; the particular numbers being
- indisputably right, and rightly cast up in the <cite>Suritan</cite> edition;
- and all the places that admit any question, are only <em>Calleva</em>
- and <em>Pontes</em>, which in this manner mutually prove one another,
- as being absolutely conformable to geography, and the nearest way one
- should chuse to go at this day, and having from Southampton a Roman
- road accompanying all the way. This summer I rode through Winchester
- and Farnham, through Alresford and Alton, and observed in many places
- signs sufficient of that nature; though it is horridly out of repair,
- and even in the midst of summer very bad, notwithstanding such plenty
- of materials every where to mend it: this has obliged coaches and
- horsemen frequently to make excursions for their ease and safety. Mr.
- Aubury likewise pronounces it a Roman road long since in his manuscript
- collections. Between Farnham and Alton the bank is visible, in several
- places between Alresford and Alton: the right reverend author of the
- additions to Camden takes notice of it. The distance is twenty two
- miles, as in the Itinerary; but to Wallingford, where Mr. Camden places
- it, it is thirty; to Henley somewhat more: beside, from the one you
- must cross the Thames three times, from the other twice in the way
- to London; a thing the Romans would certainly avoid, if possible:
- but from Farnham by way of Stanes is the direct road, and distances
- correspondent as before.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4">
- <div class="plateno1"><i>44·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div>
- <div><b><i>Prospect of</i> Farnham <i>Sep: 16. 1723.</i></b><br>
- <span class="smcap">Caleva atrebatvm</span></div>
- <img src="images/i_202.jpg" alt="">
- <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div>
- <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div>
- </figure>
-
- <p><em>Calleva</em> is again mentioned in the XIIIth and XIVth journeys,
- both which I have already corrected; and they mutually confirm one
- another, and take away all difficulties when they are considered
- together. Lastly, <em>Calleva</em> is mentioned in the XVth journey of
- Antoninus: I shall exhibit it in this form, which I conceive to be its
- original one. We have cleared all the other parts of it before, where
- it differs from this in the printed copies.</p>
-
- <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_204">204</span></p>
-
- <div class="center"><span class="gesperrt1">ITER </span>XV. <i lang="la">a Caleva Atrebatum, Iscam Dumnoniorum M. P.</i> CXXXXI. <i>sic</i></div>
-
- <table>
- <tbody>
- <tr>
- <td><i>Caleva Atrebatum</i></td>
- <td style="padding-left: 1.5em;">Farnham</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><i>Vindoma</i></td>
- <td style="padding-left: 1.5em;">Silchester</td>
- <td>XV</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><i>Venta Belgarum</i></td>
- <td style="padding-left: 1.5em;">Winchester</td>
- <td>XXI</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><i>Brigæ</i></td>
- <td>by Broughton</td>
- <td>XI</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><i>Sorbiodunum</i></td>
- <td style="padding-left: 1.5em;">Old Sarum</td>
- <td>VIII</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><i>Vindogladia</i></td>
- <td style="padding-left: 1.5em;">Boroston</td>
- <td>XII</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td style="padding-left: 2.5em;">Ibernium</td>
- <td><i>Bere regis</i></td>
- <td>XIIII</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><i>Durnovaria</i></td>
- <td style="padding-left: 1.5em;">Dorchester</td>
- <td>IX</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><i>Moridunum</i></td>
- <td style="padding-left: 1.5em;">Seaton</td>
- <td>XXXVI</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><i>Isca Dumnoniorum</i></td>
- <td style="padding-left: 1.5em;">Excester</td>
- <td>XV</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td>
- <td>————</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td>
- <td>CXXXXI</td>
- </tr>
- </tbody>
- </table>
-
- <p class="noindent">Perhaps the last X in the sum total was corrupted into a V after the
- station was dropped out. The first part of it here establishes the site
- of <em>Calleva</em> in respect to <em>Venta Belgarum</em>; as in the XIIIth
- and XIVth journeys in respect to <em>Spina</em>; so that it is proved
- from different points of a triangle, and as it were by mathematical
- demonstration.</p>
-
- <p>I imagine the occasion of over-sight in this matter is owing to Mr.
- Camden’s settling the <em>Atrebates</em> in Berkshire; and his authority,
- no doubt, with every one is of the greatest weight deservedly: yet I
- suppose his only reason for it is because he thought Wallingford the
- <em>Calleva Atrebatum</em>, as having some resemblance to his supposed
- <em>Gallena</em>. In his Roman map he has set these <em>Atrebates</em>
- partly north of the Thames in Oxfordshire, where himself puts the
- <em>Ancalites</em>, and partly south, where rightly he fixes the
- <em>Bibroci</em> in Berkshire: this is in my judgement too far northward.
- I doubt not but the <em>Bibroci</em> inhabited Berkshire intirely to the
- Thames, as I proved in a former letter; to which we may add, that if,
- as he says, this country was called by the Saxons <em>Berrocscyre</em>,
- there can be no difficulty in asserting the word derived from
- <em>Bibroci</em>. The <em>Atrebates</em> came undoubtedly from <em>Gallia
- Belgica</em>, where were a people of the same name upon the sea-coasts;
- and if we place them here in Surrey about this their capital, they
- may with some propriety with Mr. Camden be said here in Britain to
- live over-against their own country, where Ptolemy places them in
- the maritime parts upon the Sein; but not if he sends them up to the
- top of the Thames: nor is it probable they should have penetrated so
- far up the country, even beyond their brethren the <em>Belgæ</em>, by
- all allowed the most powerful colony of transmarine people at that
- time. The <em>Segontiaci</em> as well as <em>Bibroci</em>, on this side
- the Thames, would confessedly oppose such passage; therefore, if we
- give Sussex to the <em>Regni</em>, we must reserve Surrey for these
- <em>Atrebates</em>, and Farnham their capital; and this is agreeable to
- Ptolemy, who places them next the <em>Cantii</em>.</p>
-
- <p>A little without Farnham eastward, the road divides into two branches
- with an acute angle: one goes to Guildford and Darking, where it
- meets the Stane-street coming from Chichester; the other to Stanes,
- which I prosecuted to Farnborow, probably a station or inn, or camp
- to secure the road over this wild country; for it is deep sand from
- Farnham to Egham: but where in particular the Roman road went is not
- easy to define, because of the extraordinary sandiness of the whole
- country:<a id="FNanchor_141" href="#Footnote_141" class="fnanchor">[141]</a> but at Frimley,
- near <span class="pagenum" id="Page_205">205</span>here, about sixteen year ago, an
- urn with Roman coins and intaglia’s was found: Mr. Titchburn had them.
- This is directly in the way to Farnbarow. I suppose there was a Roman
- way from Silchester through Stretley, Hartley row, Harford bridge,
- which signifies <i lang="la">trajectus militaris</i>, but from the mooryness of
- the soil is quite worn away. I take this road to be a continuation of
- that coming from the Bath by Marlborough;<a id="FNanchor_142" href="#Footnote_142" class="fnanchor">[142]</a> but at Stanes I saw
- our road very evidently go through the fields west of the bridge, and
- directly over-against it;<span class="sidenote">TAB. LVI.</span> for it must be understood that the Romans
- drew a road, as I said before, under the Icening-street, and parallel
- to it, which went from <em>Regnum</em> to London. This is what we have
- been upon, and composes this VIIth <em>Iter</em>: From thence it passed
- through Colchester to the sea-coasts of Suffolk. Now between Stanes
- and London it is notorious, being the common road at present, till you
- come to Turnham green:<a id="FNanchor_143" href="#Footnote_143" class="fnanchor">[143]</a> there the present road through Hammersmith
- and Kensington leaves it; for it passes more northward upon the common,
- where to a discerning eye the trace of it is manifest; then it goes
- over a little brook called from it Stanford-bridge, and comes into the
- Acton road at a common, and a bridge, a little west of Camden house, so
- along Hyde-park wall, and crosses the Watling-street at Tyburn, then
- along Oxford-road. But of this part of it, going to Old-street, north
- of London, I spoke before.</p>
-
- <hr class="full clear mt2">
- <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_205">
- <div class="plateno"><i>84</i></div>
- <div><b><i>Prospect of Stanes Sept. 16. 1723.</i><br>
- <span class="smcap">Pontes</span><br><i class="small">16 Sep. 1723.</i></b></div>
- <img src="images/i_205.jpg" alt="">
- </figure>
-
- <p>Between Oxford-street and Stanes, this Roman road was originally drawn
- through Brentford, which undoubtedly was a mansion between them; and
- this is a very strait line: I rode the broken part of it between Acton
- road and Turnham green: it is still a narrow strait way, keeping its
- original direction, but full of dangerous sloughs, being a clayey soil
- and never repaired: it butts full upon Stanes bridge, and then beyond
- it passes forward in a strait line through gardens and yards into the
- corn-fields, where its ridge is still left, the highest part of all the
- field, though they plough close to it on both sides; and it is now a
- road for three quarters of a mile; then it enters a narrow lane, and
- at last degenerates into a foot-path toward Thorp-lea, in the way to
- Farnham; the common road leaving it all this while in the way to Egham.
- So that undoubtedly Stanes was the <span class="sidenote smcap">Pontes.</span><em>Pontes</em> of Antoninus;<a id="FNanchor_144" href="#Footnote_144" class="fnanchor">[144]</a>
- the distances of 22 miles on both sides answering the fact, and the
- <span class="sidenote">TAB. LXXXIV.</span>Itinerary; with which I shall at present conclude mine in the words of
- the poet,</p>
-
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry" lang="la">
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0"><i>Hic labor extremus, longarum hæc meta viarum.</i><span class="fright"><span class="smcap">Virg.</span> Æn. III.</span></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
-</div>
-
- <div class="chapter">
- <hr class="full thick">
- <hr class="full mt0">
- <h2 class="nobreak" id="PLATES"><span class="gesperrt1 small">THE</span><br>
- <span class="gesperrt4">PLATES</span><br>
- <span class="gesperrt1 small">IN</span><br>
- <i>ITINERARIUM CURIOSUM</i>, Cent. I.</h2>
- </div>
-
- <div class="center mb2">And where explained.</div>
-
- <table class="small">
- <tbody>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>1.</div></td>
- <td>Rural Curiosity.</td>
- <td>Marlborough <i>mount, and the cascade at</i> Wilton.</td>
- <td class="tdr" style="min-width: 7em;"><div>Pag. <a href="#i_064_1">64</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>2.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Lincolnshire <i>decoys</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_018">18</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>3.</div></td>
- <td>Seats.</td>
- <td><i>Lord</i> Hartford’s <i>house at</i> Marlborough.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_064_2">64</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>4.</div></td>
- <td>Ichnography of castles.</td>
- <td>Ludlow <i>castle, ground-plot and prospect</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_074_1">74</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>5.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td><i>Prospect of the same.</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_074_2">74</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>6.</div></td>
- <td>Views of castles.</td>
- <td>Rochester <i>castle</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_120_2">120</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>7.</div></td>
- <td>Bridges.</td>
- <td>Croyland <i>bridge</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_034">34</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>8.</div></td>
- <td>Ichnography of Palaces.</td>
- <td>Whitehall <i>ruins ground-plot</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_iv_2"><i>Pref.</i></a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>9.</div></td>
- <td>Ruins of Palaces.</td>
- <td><i>King</i> John’<i>s palace at</i> Clarendon.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_138">138</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>10.</div></td>
- <td>Seals.</td>
- <td><i>Of the church of</i> Norwich.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_iv_3"><i>Pref.</i></a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>11.</div></td>
- <td>Crosses.</td>
- <td><i>St.</i> Guthlack’<i>s, Ivy cross</i>, Ednam, Hadenham, <i>and others</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_12">12</a>, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a href="#i_107">107</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>12.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Waltham <i>cross</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_037">37</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>13.</div></td>
- <td>Prospects.</td>
- <td>Blackston <i>cave, &amp;c. near</i> Bewdley.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_074_3">74</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>14.</div></td>
- <td>Hermitages.</td>
- <td>Dale <i>abbey, &amp;c. and</i> Blackston <i>cave ground-plot</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_53">53</a>, <a href="#i_074_4">74</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>15.</div></td>
- <td>Portraits.</td>
- <td><i>Sir</i> Harry Spelman.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_iv_1"><i>Pref.</i></a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>16.</div></td>
- <td>Monumental brasses.</td>
- <td><i>Bishop</i> Smith, <i>founder of</i> Brazen-nose <i>college</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_092">92</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>17.</div></td>
- <td>Marbles.</td>
- <td>Aylwin <i>alderman of</i> England.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_081">81</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>18.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td><i>King</i> John’<i>s effigies at</i> Worcester.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_068">68</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>19.</div></td>
- <td>View of churches.</td>
- <td>Boston, Lincolnshire.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_031">31</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>20.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Colsterworth <i>church</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_085">85</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>21.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Holbech <i>church</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_020_1">20</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>22.</div></td>
- <td>Religious ruins.</td>
- <td><i>Priory of</i> Leominster.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_072">72</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>23.</div></td>
- <td>Gatehouses.</td>
- <td>Reding <i>abbey, and</i> Worcester <i>college</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_063_2">63</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>24.</div></td>
- <td>Places of interment of archbishops.</td>
- <td><i>St.</i> Augustin, <i>St.</i> Augustin’<i>s abbey</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_123_1">123</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>25.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td><i>Ruins of that abbey, king</i> Ethelbert’<i>s chapel. St.</i> Gregory’<i>s chapel</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_120">120</a>, <a href="#i_123_2">123</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>26.</div></td>
- <td>Kings.</td>
- <td>Reding <i>abbey, king</i> Harry I.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_063_1">63</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>27.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Feversham <i>abbey, king</i> Stephen.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_121">121</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>28.</div></td>
- <td>Ichnography of abbies.</td>
- <td>Kirsted <i>abbey</i>, Tupholm <i>abbey</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_088_1">88</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>29.</div></td>
- <td>Shrines.</td>
- <td><i>St.</i> Hugh <i>the</i> Burgundian’<i>s shrine</i>, Lincoln.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_092_1">92</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>30.</div></td>
- <td>Altars.</td>
- <td><i>The high altar of St.</i> Alban’<i>s abbey</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_117_1">117</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>31.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td><i>The backside of the same.</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_117_2">117</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>32.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td><i>White fryers in</i> Gloucester.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_067_1">67</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>33.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td><i>Ichnography of</i> Glassenbury <i>abbey</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_151">151</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>34.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td><i>The kitchen there.</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_152_2">152</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>35.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td><i>St.</i> Joseph <i>of</i> Arimathea’<i>s chapel</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_152_4">152</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>36.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td><i>Ruins of</i> Glassenbury <i>abbey</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_152_3">152</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>37.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td><i>Prospect of the same.</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_152_1">151</a>, <a href="#Page_153">153</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>38.</div></td>
- <td>Pictish.</td>
- <td><i>The caves of</i> Hauthornden, Scotland.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_053_2">53</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>39.</div></td>
- <td>British.</td>
- <td><i>The</i> Troglodytes <i>of</i> Nottingham.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_053_1">53</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>40.</div></td>
- <td>Greek.</td>
- <td><i>A view at</i> Athens.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_v_1"><i>Pref.</i></a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>41.</div></td>
- <td>Roman camps.</td>
- <td>Chlorus <i>his camp, near</i> Clarendon <i>park</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_137_1">137</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>42.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Oldbury <i>camp in</i> Wiltshire.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_141">141</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>43.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Camalet <i>castle and view from St.</i> Roc’<i>s hill</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_150">150</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>44.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Martinsal <i>hill</i>, Montacute <i>hill</i>, &amp;c.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_139">139</a>, <a href="#Page_156">156</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>45.</div></td>
- <td>Walls.</td>
- <td>Silchester <i>walls, and a</i> Roman <i>camp</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_079">79</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>46.</div></td>
- <td>Pharos.</td>
- <td>Pharos <i>in</i> Dover <i>castle</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_129_3">129</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>47.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td><i>Ground-plot and section of the same.</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_129_2">129</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>48.</div></td>
- <td>Romano-Saxonic.</td>
- <td><i>St.</i> Martin’<i>s church</i>, Canterbury, <i>and the Church in</i> Dover-castle.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_129_1">129</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>49.</div></td>
- <td>Roman inscriptions.</td>
- <td>Chichester, <i>&amp;c.</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_148_1">148</a>, <a href="#Page_196">196</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>50.</div></td>
- <td>Amphitheatre.</td>
- <td>Dorchester <i>amphitheatre ground-plot</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_165">165</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>51.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td><i>From the entrance a view.</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_167_3">167</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>52.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td><i>Another view.</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_167_1">169</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>53.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td><i>The sections and oblique view of the amphitheatre.</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_167_2">165</a>, <a href="#Page_167">167</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>54.</div></td>
- <td>Gates.</td>
- <td>Roman <i>gate at</i> Lincoln <i>and</i> Canterbury.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_089">89</a>, <a href="#Page_122">122</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>55.</div></td>
- <td>Buildings.</td>
- <td><i>Temple of</i> Janus <i>at</i> Leicester.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_109_1">109</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>56.</div></td>
- <td>Itinerary.</td>
- <td><i>Of</i> Antoninus.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>, <a href="#Page_205">205</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>57.</div></td>
- <td>Ichnography of Roman Cities.</td>
- <td>Londinium Augusta, <i>London</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_119">119</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>58.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Garionenum <i>by</i> Yarmouth.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_132_2">132</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>59.</div></td>
- <td style="padding-left: 3em;">and</td>
- <td>Camboritum, Chesterford <i>Mag.</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_078">78</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>60.</div></td>
- <td>Prospect of Roman Cities.</td>
- <td>Spinæ, <i>Newberry</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_063_3">63</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>61.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Vindoma, <i>Silchester</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_163">163</a>, <a href="#Page_177">177</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>62.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Cunetio castrum, Marlborough.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_063_5">63</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>63.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td><i>Prospect of</i> Marlborough.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_063_6">63</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>64.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Leucomagus, <i>Great Bedwin</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_064_3">64</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>65.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Sorbiodunum, <i>Old Sarum</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_182">182</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>66.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td><i>Prospect of Old</i> Sarum.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_183">183</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>67.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td><i>View of Old and New</i> Sarum <i>from</i> Harnham-hill.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_137_2">137</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>68.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Verlucio, <i>Heddington</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_142">142</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>69.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Punctuobice, <i>the Devizes</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_144">144</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>70.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Aquæ Solis, <i>Bath</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_146_1">146</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>71.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td><i>Prospect of the</i> Bath.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_146_2">146</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>72.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Ischalis, <i>Ilchester</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_154">154</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>73.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Isca Dumnoniorum, <i>Exeter</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_156">156</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>74.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td><i>Prospect of</i> Exeter.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_159_2">159</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>75.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Moridunum, <i>Seaton</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_159_1">159</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>76.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Londinis, <i>Lyme</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_161_1">160</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>77.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Durnovaria, <i>Dorchester</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_161_2">161</a>, <a href="#Page_165">165</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>78.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td><i>Prospect of</i> Dorchester.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_161_3">161</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>79.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Trausantum, <i>Southampton, and prospect from</i> Portsmouth.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_193_2">193</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>80.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Portus Magnus, <i>Portchester, and view in the port</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_193_1">193</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>81.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Mantantonis, <i>Chichester</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_195_2">195</a>, <a href="#Page_201">201</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>82.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td><i>Prospect of</i> Portsmouth <i>and of</i> Chichester.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_195_1">195</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>83.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Venta Belgarum.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_191">191</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>84.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Pontes, <i>Stanes</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_205">205</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>85.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Ariconium, <i>Kenchester</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_069">69</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>86.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Derventio, <i>Little Chester by</i> Derby.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_054">54</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>87.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Agelocum, <i>Littlebury</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_093">93</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>88.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Lindum colonia, <i>Lincoln</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_088_2">88</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>89.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Banovallum, <i>Horncastle</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_030">30</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>90.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Ad Pontem, <i>by</i> Bridgford.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_104">105</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>91.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Margidunum, <i>by</i> Willoughby.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_106">106</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>92.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Ratæ Coritanorum, <i>Leicester</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_108_2">108</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>93.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Benonis, <i>High-cross</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_110">110</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>94.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Tripontium, <i>Dove-bridge</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_112">112</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>95.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Verolanium, <i>Verolam</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_116_2">116</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>96.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Durovernum, <i>Canterbury</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_122">122</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>97.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Richborough-castle.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_125_1">125</a>, <a href="#Page_163">163</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>98.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Lapis tituli, <i>Folkstone</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_130">131</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>99.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Lemanus Portus, <i>Limne</i>.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_132_1">132</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>100.</div></td>
- <td>Celestial character.</td>
- <td><i>The great conjunction of the five Planets.</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_v_4"><i>Preface.</i></a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>101.</div></td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td><i>Total eclipse of the Sun in 1721.</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_180">179</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- </tbody>
- </table>
-
- <div class="chapter">
- <hr class="full thick">
- <hr class="full mt0">
- <h2 class="nobreak" id="INDEX"><span class="gesperrt4">INDEX</span>.</h2>
- </div>
-
- <table class="small">
- <thead>
- <tr>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <th class="tdr"><div>Page</div></th>
- </tr>
- </thead>
- <tbody>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2" class="tdc"><div>English.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Birth-Places, Sir <i>Isaac Newton</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_85">85</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">———— Dr. <i>Willis</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_64">64</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">———— Dr. <i>Harvey</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_131">131</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Champions of <i>England</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_61">61</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Circular churches</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_87">87</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Hermitages</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>,
- <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">K. <i>John</i>’s palace</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_138">138</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">K. <i>Charles</i> II. at <i>Winchester</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_191">191</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Two mitred priories, <i>Spalding</i> and <i>Thornholme</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_95">95</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Q. <i>Eleanor</i>’s crosses</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_36">36</a>, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_92">92</a>, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>,
- <a href="#Page_115">115</a>, <a href="#Page_117">117</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Royal oak</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_60">60</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">The <i>British</i> navy</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_194">194</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Sepulture of K. <i>Lucius</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_192">192</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">———— <i>H.</i> I.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_63">63</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">———— <i>H.</i> IV.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_124">124</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">———— <i>Etheldred</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_190">190</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">———— <i>Edgar</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_152">152</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">———— <i>Arthur</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_152">152</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">———— <i>Stephen</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_121">121</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">———— <i>Rich.</i> III.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_109">109</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">———— <i>Edw.</i> II.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_67">67</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">———— <i>John</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_68">68</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">———— <i>Rob. Brus</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_81">81</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Stilton</i> cheese</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_81">81</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Wales</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_59">59</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">The Washes</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_19">19</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Vicar of <i>Bedwin</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_65">65</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2" class="tdc pt3"><div>Etymology.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Ankam</i> river</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_95">95</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Bow</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_31">31</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Barrows, burrows, bowers</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_48">48</a>, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>, <a href="#Page_115">115</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Biard</i>’s leap</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_87">87</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Crekelade</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_65">65</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Churn</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_65">65</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Cunnet</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_63">63</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Catwater</i> &amp;c.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_8">8</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Elho</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_5">5</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Ely</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_5">5</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Frampton</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_24">24</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Holland</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_5">5</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Humber</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_96">96</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Hedg or hay in dancing</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_99">99</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Helpringham</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_12">12</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Hargate</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_16">16</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Hurn</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Kesteven</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_85">85</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Llys</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_66">66</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Lichfield</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_66">66</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Lade</i>, <i>lode</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_65">65</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Lindsey</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_85">85</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Martinalia</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_139">139</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Preshute</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_64">64</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Quern</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_67">67</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Ruffian, romeing</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Sarn</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>, <a href="#Page_121">121</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Syfer</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_102">102</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Thong-castle</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_102">102</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Thong, wang</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_102">102</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Warths</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_162">162</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Welsh</i> words in <i>Lincolnshire</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_59">59</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Witham</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_85">85</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Pageants</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_174">174</a></div></td>
- </tr>
-
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2" class="tdc pt3"><div>Genealogies.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Of <i>Wakes</i> of <i>Brun</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_10">10</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Moulton</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_23">23</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Croun</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_25">25</a></div></td>
- </tr>
-
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2" class="tdc pt3"><div>Seats.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Ambsbury</i>, lord <i>Charlton</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_137">137</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Althorp</i>, earl of <i>Sunderland</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_38">38</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Boughton</i>, duke of <i>Montague</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_36">36</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Burghley</i>, earl of <i>Exeter</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_35">35</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Belvoir</i>, duke of <i>Rutland</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_52">52</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Chatsworth</i>, duke of <i>Devon</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_55">55</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Cowdrey</i>, lord <i>Montacute</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_202">202</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Eston</i>, earl of <i>Pomfret</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_38">38</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Grimsthorp</i>, duke of <i>Ancaster</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_12">12</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Hampton-court</i>, earl of <i>Coningsby</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_72">72</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Marlborough</i>, earl of <i>Hertford</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_64">64</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Ribsford</i>, lord <i>Herbert</i> of <i>Cherbury</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_74">74</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Wilton</i>, earl of <i>Pembroke</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_65">65</a>, <a href="#Page_185">185</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Woodstock</i>, duke of <i>Marlborough</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_46">46</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Warwick</i>, lord <i>Brooke</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_49">49</a></div></td>
- </tr>
-
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2" class="tdc pt3"><div>Mechanics.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Gotes and sluices, by whom invented</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_13">13</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Decoys described</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_18">18</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Salt making</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_57">57</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">The form of oars</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_130">130</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Silk mill</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_54">54</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Stocking-loom</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_52">52</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Lace-loom</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_58">58</a></div></td>
- </tr>
-
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2" class="tdc pt3"><div>Antediluvian.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Trees</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Wood</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_37">37</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Bones</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_93">93</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Canoos</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_121">121</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Nuts</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_147">147</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Fish</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_81">81</a>, <a href="#Page_156">156</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Plants</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_149">149</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Horns</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_16">16</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Shells</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_18">18</a>, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>,
- <a href="#Page_96">96</a>, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>,
- <a href="#Page_116">116</a>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>,
- <a href="#Page_149">149</a>, <a href="#Page_151">151</a></div></td>
- </tr>
-
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2" class="tdc pt3"><div>Art.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Mr. <i>Ashe’s</i> Garden</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_55">55</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Enston</i> water-works</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_48">48</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Gothic</i> architecture commended</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_67">67</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Whence their ill taste</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_124">124</a></div></td>
- </tr>
-
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2" class="tdc pt3"><div>Mineralogy.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Lead mines</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_54">54</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Salt-springs</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_57">57</a>, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Salt works</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_58">58</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Tobacco-pipe clay</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_37">37</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Coal mines</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>, <a href="#Page_149">149</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Fullers earth</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_115">115</a></div></td>
- </tr>
-
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2" class="tdc pt3"><div>Geography.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Memoirs towards a <i>British</i> map of soils</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>,
- <a href="#Page_64">64</a>, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>,
- <a href="#Page_120">120</a>, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>, <a href="#Page_177">177</a>,
- <a href="#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>,
- <a href="#Page_195">195</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>, <a href="#Page_204">204</a></div></td>
- </tr>
-
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2" class="tdc pt3"><div>Natural.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Composure of stones</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_18">18</a>, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>,
- <a href="#Page_159">159</a>, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>, <a href="#Page_192">192</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">The earth an oblade sphæroid</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_5">5</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Proofs of the rotation of the globe</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>,
- <a href="#Page_73">73</a>, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>, <a href="#Page_96">96</a>,
- <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>, <a href="#Page_120">120</a>,
- <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>,
- <a href="#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>, <a href="#Page_151">151</a>,
- <a href="#Page_157">157</a>, <a href="#Page_159">159</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">The drumming well at <i>Oundle</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_36">36</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Pool’s</i> hole</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_57">57</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Another</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_149">149</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Remarkably large stone</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_137">137</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Flints in chalk</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_120">120</a>, <a href="#Page_141">141</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Echo</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_172">172</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Beach of pebbles</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_124">124</a>, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>, <a href="#Page_127">127</a>, <a href="#Page_159">159</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Of the noise of the ocean</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_126">126</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Springs flowing with the tide</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_94">94</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Petrifying springs</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>, <a href="#Page_112">112</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Springs swallowed up</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_131">131</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Floating island</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_57">57</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">The philosophy of making drains</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_17">17</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">———— of harbours</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_130">130</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">———— of oars</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_130">130</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">An account of the solar eclipse</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_179">179</a></div></td>
- </tr>
-
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2" class="tdc pt3"><div>Medicinal.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Chalybeat spring</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_9">9</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Ossification in a sheep</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_20">20</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Sheep without horns</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_17">17</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Prodigious memory</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_69">69</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Buxton</i> bath</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_56">56</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Bath</i> waters</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_146">146</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Case of a greyhound bitch</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_155">155</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Bronchocele endemic</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_54">54</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">The symbol of medicine</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_148">148</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Scribonius</i>, physician to <i>Claudius</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_148">148</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">One aged 126</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_37">37</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Of the gout</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_157">157</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Richness of soil in old cities</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_106">106</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">West side of the island most healthy</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>, <a href="#Page_146">146</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Botany</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>,
- <a href="#Page_57">57</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>, <a href="#Page_95">95</a>, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>,
- <a href="#Page_113">113</a>, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>, <a href="#Page_128">128</a>, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>,
- <a href="#Page_137">137</a>, <a href="#Page_149">149</a>, <a href="#Page_151">151</a>, <a href="#Page_154">154</a>, <a href="#Page_159">159</a>,
- <a href="#Page_160">160</a>, <a href="#Page_189">189</a>, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>, <a href="#Page_203">203</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Extravagant bulk of plants</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_72">72</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Celtic</i> names of plants</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_190">190</a></div></td>
- </tr>
-
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2" class="tdc pt3"><div><i>Roman</i> Roads.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2" class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_57">57</a>, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>,
- <a href="#Page_87">87</a>, <a href="#Page_96">96</a>, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>, <a href="#Page_120">120</a>,
- <a href="#Page_127">127</a>, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>, <a href="#Page_151">151</a>, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>,
- <a href="#Page_158">158</a>, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>,
- <a href="#Page_195">195</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>, <a href="#Page_203">203</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Artifice of them</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_108">108</a>, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="#Page_187">187</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Manner of paving</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_106">106</a>, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>, <a href="#Page_155">155</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Hermen-street</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">—— name</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_6">6</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">—— the new</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_85">85</a>, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Old <i>Hermen-street</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_7">7</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td style="padding-left: 2em;">by whom made</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Brigantian Hermen-street</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_92">92</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Akeman-street</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td style="padding-left: 2em;">name</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_43">43</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Ricning-way</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_68">68</a>, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href="#Page_148">148</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td style="padding-left: 2em;">name</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_148">148</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Icening street</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>,
- <a href="#Page_160">160</a>, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>, <a href="#Page_187">187</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td style="padding-left: 2em;">name</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_161">161</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td style="padding-left: 2em;">extent</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_161">161</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Foss</i> road</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>, <a href="#Page_154">154</a>, <a href="#Page_155">155</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td style="padding-left: 2em;">name</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_103">103</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td style="padding-left: 2em;">extent</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_156">156</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Watling-street</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, <a href="#Page_127">127</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td style="padding-left: 2em;">name</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_111">111</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td style="padding-left: 2em;">directed to <i>Rome</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_111">111</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Via Trinovantica</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_118">118</a>, <a href="#Page_177">177</a>, <a href="#Page_205">205</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Stone streets</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_122">122</a>, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>, <a href="#Page_204">204</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Ravens-bank</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_15">15</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Via Badonica</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_62">62</a>, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_140">140</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Brig-end</i> causeway</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_15">15</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">In <i>Holland</i>, <i>Lincolnshire</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_14">14</a></div></td>
- </tr>
-
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2" class="tdc pt3"><div><i>English</i> Towns.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Ambsbury</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_137">137</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Blandford</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_189">189</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Boston</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_31">31</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Buxton</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_56">56</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Bewdley</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_74">74</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Crowland</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_33">33</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Chip. norton</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_48">48</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Coventry</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_49">49</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Connington</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_81">81</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Colsterworth</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_85">85</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Chard</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_156">156</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Derby</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_54">54</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Fereby</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_99">99</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Feversham</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_121">121</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Fleet</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_12">12</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Frieston</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_25">25</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Fotheringhay</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_35">35</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Glassonbury</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_151">151</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Gedney</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_12">12</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Holbech</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_12">12</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Hyth</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_131">131</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Hereford</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_71">71</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Islip</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_44">44</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Kirkton</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_32">32</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Lichfield</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_66">66</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Leominster</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_72">72</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Ludlow</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_73">73</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Moulton</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_22">22</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Malvern</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_69">69</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Newark</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_104">104</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Nottingham</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_52">52</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Oundle</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_36">36</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Oxford</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_44">44</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Petherton</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_156">156</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Portsmouth</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_193">193</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Rotherston</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_57">57</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Reading</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_62">62</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Somerton</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_154">154</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Steeple-ashton</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_145">145</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Southampton</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_192">192</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Stukeley</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_80">80</a>, <a href="#Page_114">114</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Stanford</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_35">35</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Tamworth</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_61">61</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Wight</i> island</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_195">195</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Wrexham</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_59">59</a></div></td>
- </tr>
-
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2" class="tdc pt3"><div><i>Roman</i> Towns.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Ancaster</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_86">86</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Brigcasterton</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_84">84</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Brentford</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_205">205</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Crekelade</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_65">65</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Caster</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_101">101</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Grantham</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_52">52</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Hartford</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_77">77</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Laurance Waltham</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_62">62</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Northfleet</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_120">120</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Newington</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_122">122</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Royston</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_79">79</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Sleaford</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_9">9</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Stanfield</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_9">9</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Stunsfield</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_47">47</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Spittal</i> on the street</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_94">94</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Towcester</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_40">40</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Wintringham</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_95">95</a></div></td>
- </tr>
-
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2" class="tdc pt3"><div><i>Roman</i> cities.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Abontrus</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_96">96</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Alauna</i>, Aldcester</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_40">40</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Ad spinam</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_63">63</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Ariconium</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_69">69</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Agelocum</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_93">93</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Aquis</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_96">96</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Ad pontem</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_105">105</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Alauna</i>, Wimborn</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_190">190</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Arminis</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_191">191</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Aquæ solis</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_146">146</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Andaoreon</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_179">179</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Brigæ</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_184">184</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Bolnelaunium</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_190">190</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Benavona</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_114">114</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Benonis</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_110">110</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Branonium</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_68">68</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Bonium</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_59">59</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Branavis</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_48">48</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Banovallum</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_30">30</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Condate</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_57">57</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Cunetio</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_63">63</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Corinium</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_66">66</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Camboritum</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_78">78</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Causennis</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_85">85</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Crocolana</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_103">103</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Caleva Atrebatum</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_202">202</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Colomeæ</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_150">150</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Derventio</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_54">54</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Deva</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_59">59</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Durocinonte</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_80">80</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Durobrivis</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_82">82</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Durocobrivis</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_116">116</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Durobrovis</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_120">120</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Durolenum</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_121">121</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Durovernum</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_122">122</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Dubris</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_127">127</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Durnovaria</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_161">161</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Eltabona</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_37">37</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Etocetum</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_61">61</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Garionenum</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_152">152</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Glevum</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_67">67</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Isca Dumnoniorum</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_156">156</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Ischalis</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_154">154</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Ibernium</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_189">189</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Leucomagus</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_64">64</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Lindum</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_88">88</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Lactorodum</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_114">114</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Londinium</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_119">119</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Lapis Tituli</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_131">131</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Lemanis</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_132">132</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Londinis</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_160">160</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Moridunum</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_159">159</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Moriconium</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_190">190</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Mida</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_202">202</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Mantantonis</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_201">201</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Magiovinium</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_115">115</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Margidunum</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_106">106</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Mancunium</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_58">58</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Noviomagus</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_119">119</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Præsidium</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_49">49</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Pennocrucium</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_61">61</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Portus magnus</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_193">193</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Punctuobice</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_144">144</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Pontes</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_205">205</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Rutupiæ</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_124">124</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Regnum</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_190">190</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Ratæ</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_108">108</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Salinis</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_69">69</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Salinæ</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_78">78</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Sorbiodunum</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_182">182</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Suellaniacis</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_118">118</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Tamese</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_43">43</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Tripontium</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_112">112</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Trausantum</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_193">193</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Vindoma</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_177">177</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Verlucio</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_142">142</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Vagniacis</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_120">120</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Verolanium</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_116">116</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Vernometum</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_108">108</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Venta Belgarum</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_191">191</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Vindogladia</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_188">188</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Vainona</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_28">28</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Ypocessa</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_69">69</a></div></td>
- </tr>
-
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2" class="tdc pt3"><div>Roman Forts.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Burgh</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_29">29</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Boston</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_16">16</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Spalding</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_14">14</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Wisbech</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_14">14</a>, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Brancaster</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_16">16</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Richborough</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_125">125</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Farnborough</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_204">204</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Many more</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_8">8</a></div></td>
- </tr>
-
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2" class="tdc pt3"><div>Roman Camps.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Arbury hill</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_114">114</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Audleyn</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_79">79</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Bury hill</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_43">43</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Bury hill</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_179">179</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Burrough hill</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_113">113</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Barbury</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_140">140</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Badbury</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_140">140</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Badbury</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_140">140</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Badbury</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_189">189</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Castledikes</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_114">114</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Cheselbury</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_135">135</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Cheselbury</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_139">139</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Chloridunum</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_137">137</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Dinder-hill</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_70">70</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Gildsborough</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_38">38</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Hexton</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_77">77</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Honington</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_87">87</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Hamden hill</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_156">156</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Honey ditches</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_159">159</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">By <i>Kingsclere</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_179">179</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Maiden castle</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_162">162</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Martinshall</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_139">139</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Oldbury</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_141">141</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Poundbury</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_162">162</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Ring hill</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_202">202</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>St. Roc’s hill</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_70">70</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Sutton walls</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_79">79</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Vespasian’s camp</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_138">138</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Wodbury</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_189">189</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Yarborough</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_101">101</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Yarnbury</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_137">137</a></div></td>
- </tr>
-
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2" class="tdc pt3"><div>Roman remains.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Old Sea-dike</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_13">13</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">The <i>Cardike</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_7">7</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Gate at <i>Lincoln</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_89">89</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">At <i>Canterbury</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_122">122</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Mintwall</i>, at <i>Lincoln</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_89">89</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">At <i>Exeter</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_157">157</a>, <a href="#Page_158">158</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Jewrywall, Leicester</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_109">109</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">At <i>Ariconium</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_70">70</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">At <i>Rochester</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_120">120</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Temples</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>, <a href="#Page_146">146</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Manner of <i>Roman</i> walls</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_89">89</a>, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>, <a href="#Page_120">120</a>,
- <a href="#Page_122">122</a>, <a href="#Page_125">125</a>, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>,
- <a href="#Page_165">165</a>, <a href="#Page_177">177</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Lolham</i> bridges</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_7">7</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Pharos</i> at <i>Dover</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_129">129</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Their mortar</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_89">89</a>, <a href="#Page_101">101</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Proportion of bricks</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_70">70</a>, <a href="#Page_117">117</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Imbanking of <i>Holland</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_12">12</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Piles of oak</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_105">105</a>, <a href="#Page_109">109</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Amphitheatres</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_125">125</a>, <a href="#Page_163">163</a>, <a href="#Page_164">164</a>, <a href="#Page_178">178</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Julian</i>’s bower</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_95">95</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">The meaning</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_97">97</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Chichester</i> inscription</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_196">196</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Lapis milliaris</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_14">14</a>, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>, <a href="#Page_179">179</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Lares</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a href="#Page_118">118</a>, <a href="#Page_145">145</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Thyrsus</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_31">31</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Antiquities in <i>Holland</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_12">12</a>, <a href="#Page_13">13</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">At <i>Rauceby</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_12">12</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Wells</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Hypocausts</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>, <a href="#Page_123">123</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Coins found</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>,
- <a href="#Page_48">48</a>, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>,
- <a href="#Page_60">60</a>, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>,
- <a href="#Page_80">80</a>, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>,
- <a href="#Page_86">86</a>, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>, <a href="#Page_95">95</a>, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>,
- <a href="#Page_104">104</a>, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>, <a href="#Page_112">112</a>, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>,
- <a href="#Page_116">116</a>, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>,
- <a href="#Page_149">149</a>, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>, <a href="#Page_154">154</a>, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>,
- <a href="#Page_158">158</a>, <a href="#Page_175">175</a>, <a href="#Page_177">177</a>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>,
- <a href="#Page_202">202</a>, <a href="#Page_205">205</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Mosaics</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_47">47</a>, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>,
- <a href="#Page_84">84</a>, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>,
- <a href="#Page_117">117</a>, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Cæsar’s</i> landing place</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_127">127</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Julia Domna</i>’s head</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_157">157</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Arundel</i> Collection</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><i>Preface</i>, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Runway</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_141">141</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Rumsey</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_191">191</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Ramsgate cliff</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_124">124</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Ravensbank</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_15">15</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Antoninus</i>’s Iter</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>
- <table style="text-align: right; margin-right: 0">
- <tbody>
- <tr>
- <td> VII.</td>
- <td rowspan="4" class="rbrace">&nbsp;</td>
- <td rowspan="4">corrected</td>
- <td rowspan="4" class="lbrace">&nbsp;</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_203">203</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>XIII.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_143">143</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>XIV.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_144">144</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>XV.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_204">204</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- </tbody>
- </table>
- </div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Inscriptions</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_67">67</a>, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>, <a href="#Page_169">169</a></div></td>
- </tr>
-
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2" class="tdc pt3"><div>Celtic Antiquities.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Tumuli</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>,
- <a href="#Page_38">38</a>, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>, <a href="#Page_106">106</a>,
- <a href="#Page_107">107</a>, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>, <a href="#Page_118">118</a>, <a href="#Page_127">127</a>,
- <a href="#Page_131">131</a>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>,
- <a href="#Page_162">162</a>, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>,
- <a href="#Page_189">189</a>, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Instruments dug up</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_12">12</a>, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_91">91</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Oppida</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_53">53</a>, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>, <a href="#Page_124">124</a>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>, <a href="#Page_191">191</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Cursus</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_109">109</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Temples</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_48">48</a>, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>, <a href="#Page_140">140</a>, <a href="#Page_149">149</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Grimesditch</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_47">47</a>, <a href="#Page_179">179</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Flightditch</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_79">79</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Brentditch</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_79">79</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">Boundary of the <i>Belgic</i> kingdom</td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>
- <table style="text-align: right; margin-right: 0">
- <tbody>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>I.</div></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_189">189</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>II.</div></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_187">187</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdr"><div>III.</div></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_138">138</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- </tbody>
- </table>
- </div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">The <i>Wansdike</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div>IV. <a href="#Page_64">64</a>, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>, <a href="#Page_145">145</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">The <i>Albionites</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_189">189</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">These <i>Celtic</i> works ancienter than the <i>Roman</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>, <a href="#Page_188">188</a></div></td>
- </tr>
-
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2" class="tdc pt3">British Camps.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Aukbury</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_138">138</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Credon hill</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_70">70</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Bushill</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_77">77</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl">By East <i>Hamstead</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_177">177</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Harbury banks</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_78">78</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Maiden bower</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_115">115</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Wilbury</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_77">77</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Warmleighton</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_49">49</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Tadmerton</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_49">49</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Burbich</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_139">139</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Mentaris Æstuarium</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_5">5</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Cavata</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_85">85</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Victius</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_88">88</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Bibroci</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_62">62</a>, <a href="#Page_204">204</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Atrebates</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_202">202</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Nadre</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_135">135</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Antona</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_193">193</a>, <a href="#Page_201">201</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Belgæ</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_135">135</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Dobuni</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_140">140</a>, <a href="#Page_197">197</a></div></td>
- </tr>
-
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2" class="tdc pt3"><div>Religious Houses.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Vaudy</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_12">12</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Sempringham</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_12">12</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Skirbec</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_25">25</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Frieston</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_25">25</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Hagnaby</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_29">29</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Crowland</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_32">32</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Northampton</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_37">37</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Bicester</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_43">43</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Tame</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_44">44</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Osney</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_45">45</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Ruleigh</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_45">45</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Godstow</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_46">46</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Chipping Norton</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_48">48</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Dale</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_53">53</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Chester</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_59">59</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Reading</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_62">62</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Marlborough</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_63">63</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Hereford</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_71">71</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Leominster</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_72">72</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Ludlow</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_74">74</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Ramsey</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_81">81</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Nocton</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_88">88</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Kyme</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_88">88</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Barlings</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_88">88</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Bardney</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_88">88</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Tupholme</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_88">88</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Stickswold</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_88">88</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Kirksted</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_88">88</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Revesby</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_88">88</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Risby</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_95">95</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Gokewell</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_95">95</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Thornton</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_100">100</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Leicester</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_109">109</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Sopwell</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_117">117</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Feversham</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_121">121</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Glassenbury</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_151">151</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Cowic</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_158">158</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Exeter</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_158">158</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Wimburn</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_190">190</a></div></td>
- </tr>
- </tbody>
- </table>
-
- <div class="footheader">FOOTNOTES:</div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_1" href="#FNanchor_1" class="label">[1]</a> The late John Ives, Jun. Esq; of Great Yarmouth, F. R. &amp;
- A. S. who was possessed of these Plates, kindly lent that of Sir Henry
- Spelman for this Edition: the other was re-engraved before the Editor
- knew in whose possession they were.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_2" href="#FNanchor_2" class="label">[2]</a> Cum perpetui ferè &amp; asperrimi montes sint versus
- occasum.—Baxteri Glossarium, voce <i>Otodini</i>.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_3" href="#FNanchor_3" class="label">[3]</a> At Hall, by Inspruck, salt-rocks, says Mr. Addison in his
- Italian Travels.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_4" href="#FNanchor_4" class="label">[4]</a> Cæsar calls Arminius a German general, whose proper name
- was <i>Harman</i>, or <i>Herman</i>, which signifies in that language
- the General of an Army.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_5" href="#FNanchor_5" class="label">[5]</a> The 6th of August, 1733, I went to meet Mr. Roger Gale
- coming from Peterborough. I staid at the Roman road, on that high hill,
- they have lately afresh plowed up some of the heath. It is surprizing
- to see how thick the fossil shells lay just under the surface, turned
- to stone; cockles, muscles, bivalves, whilks, and many more. I measured
- the adventitious turf grown over the Roman road: at a breach, it is
- almost six inches.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_6" href="#FNanchor_6" class="label">[6]</a> Lolham and Torphall, two royal manors belonging to
- Margaret countess of Richmond, who lived at Colliweston, a great old
- house at Lolham, which has been moted about. At Torphall the foundation
- of an antient tower forty foot square.
-
- <p>Mr. Samuel Parker gave me, 1735, a silver Antoninus found by the
- Cardike on the back of Peterborough minster: the reverse, COS. III.
- DES. IIII. Many Roman coins found in digging in the ruins of the
- minster.</p>
-
- <p>At Moreton upon the Cardike, much Roman coin found.</p>
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_7" href="#FNanchor_7" class="label">[7]</a> <i>Cardike</i> is British: <i>Cæirs</i> is <i>palus</i>
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_8" href="#FNanchor_8" class="label">[8]</a> Oslac, ambassador from Athelwolf, king of the West Saxons,
- anno 851, to Bertulf, king of Mercia, witness to a charter of Bertulf’s
- to Croyland abbey, Ingulf, p. 490. This was done at a parliament held
- at Kingsbury, a manor of the kings of Mercia, near Verolanum, and near
- where Offa had built the monastery to St Alban. I suppose Oslac, often
- mentioned in charters about 966, in Ingulf and others, to be Oslac, in
- the time of king Edgar, partner with earl Osul in the government of
- Northumberland, by king Edred constituted. His hand is at king Edred’s
- charter to Croyland, anno 948; to that of king Edgar, in 966; and to
- that of king Edgar to Peterborough, 970. Roger de Hoveden, p. 243.
- Oslac, butler to Athelwolf, was a Goth by origin, says Rog. de Hoveden,
- descended from Stuf and Withgar, two earls and brothers, who received
- the Isle of Wight from their uncle, king Cerdie, and Cinvic his son,
- their cousin.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_9" href="#FNanchor_9" class="label">[9]</a> Ralf, or Radinus Scalre, son to Goda, sister to king
- Edward: he is buried at Peterborough. Leofric, lord of Brun, was
- cousin to him. Earl Rodulf was son to Goda. William Malmsbury, p. 45.
- <i>b.</i> Earl Rolf was one of king Edward’s admirals against earl Godwin.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_10" href="#FNanchor_10" class="label">[10]</a> Morcar had these manors following, in the time of
- Domesday book: Colstewrde (Colsterworth) Basingheham, Shillington,
- Cherchebi (Kirkby) Chime (Kime) Bodebi, Wellingoure, Castre, Cotes,
- Barewe, Stroustone, Nort Stoches, Carletune, Bredesthorp, Wes-Bitham,
- Bortone, Brune, and Stapleford.
-
- <p>Bodebi belonged of right to Crowland.</p>
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_11" href="#FNanchor_11" class="label">[11]</a> Morchar, or Macher, as William Malmsbury calls him, son
- of Elgar, or Algar, p. 46. <i>b.</i> was made earl of Northumberland;
- Tostin, son of Earl Godwin, losing it for his severity: and at the end
- of king Edward’s life, Tostin coming out of Flanders to invade the
- coasts of Northumberland in a piratical manner, was repelled by the
- forces of Morcar, and his brother Edwin. Tostin goes into Scotland,
- there meets Harold Harfag, the Norwegian, with three hundred ships
- upon an invasion: they agree to join forces, land in Northumberland,
- surprise the two brothers overjoyed at their late victory, and shut
- them up in York city till king Harold relieved them.
-
- <p>Tostin, son of earl Godwin, was earl of Northumberland, and turned out,
- by instigation of his brother, at the end of Edward the Confessor’s
- life, and Morchar made earl in his stead. Morcar, and his elder brother
- Edwin, lived there very lovingly together, and when Harold the king was
- slain by William the Conqueror, offered themselves to the people, who
- might chuse one of them for their king. Harold and they were cousins;
- and they were at London at the time of the battle of Hastings: but
- William the Conqueror’s fortune prevailed both in getting the battle,
- and in getting the kingdom. Afterwards they disturbed the Conqueror by
- little inroads and vexations, and were sometimes taken prisoners; yet
- he pardoned them, and married them to his relations. At length they
- were slain perfidiously by their own men, and the king was much grieved
- at their death.</p>
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_12" href="#FNanchor_12" class="label">[12]</a> Hereward married Turfrida in Flanders.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_13" href="#FNanchor_13" class="label">[13]</a> The Duke of Ancaster, 1726, showed me a large brass
- Hadrian, but defaced, dug up in his garden, near the <i>tumulus</i> at
- the end: he says more coins have been found about the stone pits in
- the park. That <i>tumulus</i> perhaps was the burial-place of Grime,
- who denominated the place Grimsthorp, or Grime’s farm, probably some
- great Saxon, or Dane. I observe there are a few more <i>tumuli</i> upon
- hills hereabouts, as one on the heath by Corby. I think the country
- hereabouts extremely fine and delightful: an excellent kind of stone is
- dug up in Grimsthorp park; and here and there a vein of good marble of
- a darkish colour: the blueish marble lies uppermost in a bed of about
- four foot; then a bed of twenty foot thick, of an excellent whitish
- stone, with reddish veins where they can cut blocks of any dimensions.
- Anno 1731, in digging in the court yard, they found an old brass seal,
- a coat of arms, two bars ermine; the epigraphe, as well as I could make
- it out, thus:
-
- <figure>
- <img class="illowp60" src="images/i_012.png" alt="SEEL. DES. OBLIGATCIONS. DE. RCE.">
- </figure>
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_14" href="#FNanchor_14" class="label">[14]</a> Later, about 1701 or 1702.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_15" href="#FNanchor_15" class="label">[15]</a> At Grantford, by March, 1732, several Roman urns found.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_16" href="#FNanchor_16" class="label">[16]</a> Holbech seems to have been <i>Holbergh</i>, as Wisbech
- <i>Wousbergh</i>.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_17" href="#FNanchor_17" class="label">[17]</a> Anno 1727, at Walpole, by the side of Wisbech river,
- abundance of Roman aqueducts were dug up, and Roman bricks, &amp;c. and Mr.
- Colburn, minister there, sent me an aqueduct.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_18" href="#FNanchor_18" class="label">[18]</a> Wisbech is called <i>Wiseberch</i>, i. e. burgh, in king
- Wulfhere’s charter to Peterburgh. Mr. Peck’s Ant. Stanf. p. 21. Many
- Roman aqueducts dug up at Wisbech castle, when they built the present
- structure, as Mr. Beaupre Bell tells me; such as were found at Walpole,
- whereof I have one. William the Conqueror built a castle upon the Roman work.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_19" href="#FNanchor_19" class="label">[19]</a> No less than eight canoos were found in draining
- Martin mere. Dr. Leigh’s <i>Lancaster</i>. A moss-deer’s skeleton
- found fourteen foot under ground in the fens by the river Witham,
- Lincolnshire. I saw part of a moss-deer’s horn at the Society in
- Peterborough, found in the fens there.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_20" href="#FNanchor_20" class="label">[20]</a> The bed wherein Margaret lay, has since been removed to a
- farm-house by the fen-side, called Wrigbolt, where I have seen it. It
- is a very old-fashioned oak bed with panels of odd embossed work, like
- many we see in old country houses.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_21" href="#FNanchor_21" class="label">[21]</a> Pliny says they eat ducks in Britain as a great delicacy.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_22" href="#FNanchor_22" class="label">[22]</a> Radulfus de Holbech officium custod. resignat, &amp; resumit
- locum focii ap. Æd. Petri Cant. 1349.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_23" href="#FNanchor_23" class="label">[23]</a> Algar the Count, called the Younger, with his two
- stewards, Wibert and Leofric, who gave names to these three towns,
- Algarkirk, Wiberton, Leverton, with other warriors, obtained a great
- victory over the Danes, anno 870. (Chron. Joan. Abb. S. Petri de Burgo,
- ed. a Spark, p 15. from Ingulf) but were slain the next day. 9 Ed. I.
- Ranulf de Rye obtained of the king a licence for a market every week,
- on the Monday, at his manor of Gosberchurch, and free warren there,
- as at his lands at Swinflete, Quadavering, Donington, Iwardby, and Housthorp.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_24" href="#FNanchor_24" class="label">[24]</a> Thoroton’s Hist. of Nott. gives part of this Pedigree, p. 174.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_25" href="#FNanchor_25" class="label">[25]</a> That monument in the church-yard was probably that of St.
- Botulphus, who was buried in this town, and famous for miracles before
- and after death.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_26" href="#FNanchor_26" class="label">[26]</a> The old church, built after the Danish devastation in
- 870, was of Turketil’s raising, who died 975. The new part of Crowland
- abbey was built in 1114.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_27" href="#FNanchor_27" class="label">[27]</a> The names of Croyland bells are mentioned by Ingulf,
- p. 505. <i>b</i>. The first was made by Turketil, <i>Guthlac</i> the
- greatest: the five others were made by his successor, abbot Egelric;
- <i>Bartholomew</i>, <i>Bettelin</i>, <i>Turketyl</i>, <i>Tatwin</i>,
- <i>Pega</i> and <i>Bega</i>.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_28" href="#FNanchor_28" class="label">[28]</a> The abbot of Croyland’s chair is at Mr. Dove’s seat
- at Upton by Peterborough, a descendant of bishop Dove’s: upon it,
- <span class="allsmcap">BENEDICITE FONTES DN̄O</span>. I suppose the abbot’s name was
- <i>Fountain</i>.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_29" href="#FNanchor_29" class="label">[29]</a> St. Guthlake’s hermitage ruins pulled down about 1720.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_30" href="#FNanchor_30" class="label">[30]</a> The triangular bridge of Croyland is mentioned in the
- time of king Edred, anno 948. St. Guthlake’s cross, Plate XI. was
- set up by abbot Thurketil a little before that time.—Ingulf, p. 497. <i>b.</i>
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_31" href="#FNanchor_31" class="label">[31]</a> Of these crosses thus Walsingham, Hist. Angl. anno 1291.
- Dura (rex) finibus Scotiæ, &amp;c.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_32" href="#FNanchor_32" class="label">[32]</a> Grantham and Stamford were two stages. Mr. Howgrave says
- there was a queen’s cross at Stanford; and the like is affirmed of
- Grantham, and that it stood in the open place in the London road: and
- I saw a stone, carved with foliage work, said to be part of it; and
- I believe it, seeming of that sort of work: if so, then Newark and
- Leicester must be left out, and they travelled with the queen’s corpse
- by way of Oundle to Geddington from Stanford, I suppose the present
- London road from Stanford being unpassable, or not having at that time
- royal seats, manors, or abbeys, by the way, sufficient to entertain
- the cavalcade. Mr. Peck, in his Stanford Antiquities, asserts Grantham
- and Stanford two of the stages, and where crosses were erected, no
- doubt, that at Grantham flood in the open London road before my
- neighbour Hacket’s house, called Peter-church hill; and the people have
- some memory of it. Mr. Peck puts in Woburn between Dunstable and St.
- Alban’s; upon what authority I know not.—Geddington was a manor of the
- king’s, V. Regist. Hon. Richmond, p. 280.—Camden in his Remains, p.
- 208, who doubtless had seen them, inserts Grantham and Stanford, V. p. 116.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_33" href="#FNanchor_33" class="label">[33]</a> At Naseby, round the font an inscription, ΝΙΨΟΝ
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_34" href="#FNanchor_34" class="label">[34]</a> The Rev. Mr. Bertie of Uffington gave me 1735, several
- Roman coins found in this city; a very fair silver Hadrian, <span class="allsmcap">IMP.
- CÆSAR TRAIAN HADRIANVS AVG.</span> reverse, a sitting figure. <span class="allsmcap">PM TRP COS. III.</span>
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_35" href="#FNanchor_35" class="label">[35]</a> Jan. 1718, between Broadwel and Stow in the Wold,
- Gloucestershire, a countryman digging a ditch to divide a pasture,
- found an urn of a green colour: at top it had foliage work; in it
- thirty pound weight of copper Roman coin, which he sold for six-pence
- per pound. About a dozen were sent to Dr. Mead, of Constans,
- Constantine, and Magnentius.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_36" href="#FNanchor_36" class="label">[36]</a> <i>Acha</i>, in Irish, is a dike, mound, or bank.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_37" href="#FNanchor_37" class="label">[37]</a> The countess of Warwick was abbess here. <i>Tiber.</i> B.
- XIII. 5. Bibl. Cotton. is her elegium.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_38" href="#FNanchor_38" class="label">[38]</a> Holinshed, in his Hist. Engl. p. 92. says a stone trough
- full of Roman coin was found at Grantham forty years before: he there
- gives an account of the golden helmet, &amp;c. found at Harlaxton.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_39" href="#FNanchor_39" class="label">[39]</a> The castle was in the close by the river east of the
- church: people alive remember foundations of it being dug up. I saw
- this year, 1726, a large brass Antoninus coin, found near Slade mill,
- in possession of Mrs. Vincent. Some think the castle was at Captain
- Hacket’s house, and that it was John of Gaunt’s castle, who had a manor
- here: however, great foundations are at the place, and arches have been
- taken up by the Captain; whether belonging to that manor house, castle,
- or the adjoining St. Peter’s church, now demolished, I know not.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_40" href="#FNanchor_40" class="label">[40]</a> It is a mistake I was led into by the vulgar opinion of
- the people of Grantham: Mr. Stokes was master of the school in Sir
- Isaac’s time.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_41" href="#FNanchor_41" class="label">[41]</a> 1726, I saw the tomb-stone of this Robert new dug up, in
- a stable where was the priory chapel:
-
- <figure class="mb0">
- <img class="illowp50" src="images/i_052.png" alt="ROBERT DE TODĒILE FVDEVR">
- </figure>
-
- wrote in large letters with lead cast in them.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_42" href="#FNanchor_42" class="label">[42]</a> I have a brass Claudius, found in Grantham, reverse,
- <span class="smcap">ceres avgvsta</span>, struck on occasion of that universal dearth
- mentioned by St. Luke. Josephus takes notice of it, Ant. Jud. III. 18.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_43" href="#FNanchor_43" class="label">[43]</a> It contains 26,586 principal wheels, any one of which
- may be stopped separately, and independent of the rest: one regulator
- governs the whole work. It works 73,728 yards of silk every time the
- water-wheel goes round, which is thrice in a minute; 318,504,960 yards
- of silk in a day and night. A girl of eleven years old does the work of
- thirty-five persons. One chimney conveys warm air into every room.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_44" href="#FNanchor_44" class="label">[44]</a> Walter Laci gave to the canons of Lanthony the whole
- valley where the abbey was situate, viz. from Kenentesset and
- Askareswey, by the <i>Rudgewey</i>, to Antefin, and from Haterell, from
- the land of Sesil Fitzgilbert, by the <i>Ruggewey</i>, to the bounds of Talgarth.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_45" href="#FNanchor_45" class="label">[45]</a> An account of these shells in Phil. Trans. p. 427. V. II.
- Mr. collector Terry tells me they find here vast quantities of
- antediluvian fir-trees, and peat very deep in the earth: amongst it,
- a large hollow gold ring, an inch and a half diameter; and a broad
- thick coin of base gold, full of strange unknown characters on both
- sides, sold to a goldsmith there; probably an invaluable curiosity.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_46" href="#FNanchor_46" class="label">[46]</a> At Frilsham, a Roman villa by <i>ad Spinam</i>, a Roman
- altar dug up, dedicated to Jupiter, 1730, in the earl of Abingdon’s grounds.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_47" href="#FNanchor_47" class="label">[47]</a> At Froxfield, south of Ramesbury, upon the <i>via
- Trinobantica</i>, a Roman villa discovered anno 1724. under a wood
- two Mosaic pavements. Lord Winchelsea has the drawings of them. Many
- antiquities found here.
-
- <p>Howhill near here.</p>
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_48" href="#FNanchor_48" class="label">[48]</a> <i>Lod</i> and <i>Lud</i>, &amp;c. is a general name for
- rivers. The river <i>Loddon</i> runs into the Thames between Reading
- and Henley. <i>Loddon</i>, the name of a town upon a rivulet running
- into the Yare near Yarmouth, Norfolk. <i>Lutton</i>, in Holland,
- Lincolnshire, where all the drains of the country meet. <i>Ludlow</i>,
- and <i>Ludford</i> near it, from the river. <i>Lidston</i>, in
- Devonshire, and <i>Lidford</i>, anciently a large town upon the
- river <i>Lid</i>, a branch of the Tamar. <i>Lidbury</i>, upon the
- river <i>Liden</i>, Herefordshire. River <i>Lid</i>, in Cumberland.
- <i>Lidesdale</i>, <i>Loder</i>, in Westmoreland. <i>Luda</i> river and
- town (Louth) Lincolnshire. <i>Ludham</i>, upon a river in Norfolk.
- <i>Lug</i>, in Herefordshire, a river of note. <i>Loghor</i>, a
- river in Glamorganshire. Hence <i>Luguballia</i>, <i>Lugotitia</i>,
- <i>Ludgate</i>, &amp;c.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_49" href="#FNanchor_49" class="label">[49]</a> Wm. of Malmsbury, p. 65 tells a story he had from this Walkerius.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_50" href="#FNanchor_50" class="label">[50]</a>
- <div class="center-container">
- <div class="poetry" lang="la">
- <div class="stanza">
- <div class="i0"><i>In longas orbem qui secuere vias.</i> <span class="fright"><span class="smcap">Ovid.</span> Amor. II. 16.</span></div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_51" href="#FNanchor_51" class="label">[51]</a> Among the old Egyptians, Herodotus tells us,
- (<i>Euterpe</i>) one sort of soldiers was called <i>Hermotybiæ</i>;
- latui <i>arma</i>.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_52" href="#FNanchor_52" class="label">[52]</a> The Roman station between London and Hertford (I suppose
- they had one every ten miles, if conveniently it could be) was probably
- at Cheshunt, anciently <i>Cestrehunt</i>; and it is likely there was a
- fortification there. Wadesmill retains the name of <i>Vadum</i>.
-
- <p>It is very easy to discern where the old Roman road becomes the present
- road northward, by the alteration of its direction, near a little rill
- between Wadesmill and Ware. Wadesmill was a Roman ford, <i>vadum</i>,
- <i>wath</i>; whence its name: and from hence the Roman road is the
- common one, or post road, to Chesterton, or <i>Durobrivæ</i>, upon the
- river Nen.</p>
-
- <p>K. Edward senior, in 909, the 9th year of his reign, built a castle
- there, says H. Hunt; where it is printed <i>Herefordiam</i> instead of
- <i>Hertfordiam</i>. <i>Castrum non immensum, sed pulcherrimum, inter
- Beneficiam</i> (the Bean) <i>&amp; Mimera &amp; Luge flumina, &amp;c.</i></p>
-
- <p>Cestrehunt, Cheshunt, is <i>via ad castrum</i>. <i>Huynt</i>,
- <i>hynt</i>, is in Welsh a gang, or road, a by-road, short road.</p>
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_53" href="#FNanchor_53" class="label">[53]</a> Vast quantities of coins found at Gamlingay, as I am told
- by Mr. Peck.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_54" href="#FNanchor_54" class="label">[54]</a> June 11, 1729, Mr. Welby of Denton tells me, Gardiner,
- who keeps the Crown inn at <i>Camboritum</i>, lately found many Roman
- coins there, and sells them for four pence a piece.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_55" href="#FNanchor_55" class="label">[55]</a> Dr. Brady, in his History of England, p. 48. mentions
- this city. Hollingshed, p. 92. <i>b.</i> of his History of England,
- says a gate of it was standing in his time.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_56" href="#FNanchor_56" class="label">[56]</a> <i>Et</i> camuris <i>hirtæ sub cornibus aures.</i>
- <span class="smcap">Virg.</span> G. III.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_57" href="#FNanchor_57" class="label">[57]</a> The chalk ends about two miles north of Baldoc and Royston.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_58" href="#FNanchor_58" class="label">[58]</a> The market-place at Royston is a large square area,
- seemingly of Roman design.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_59" href="#FNanchor_59" class="label">[59]</a> Probably Roisia, wife to Pagan de Beauchamp, Baron 3d
- of Bedford, who built the castle of Bedford about the time of the Conquest.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_60" href="#FNanchor_60" class="label">[60]</a> May 15, 1732, I rode between Huntingdon and Cambridge,
- and discovered evidently that it was a Roman road all the way, pointing
- strait from Godmanchester to Cambridge castle. When I told this to
- Mr. Roger Gale, then at Cotenham, he said, he had observed that Roman
- road which lies on Gogmagog hills to point likewise upon Cambridge
- castle; so that the ford at Cambridge river is originally Roman: and
- undoubtedly there was a Roman town at Cambridge, for the conveniency
- of passengers and armies between the <i>Iceni</i> and the northern
- parts beyond Huntingdon. I apprehend Chesterton and Grantchester were
- Roman forts and repositories of corn from this country, to be sent to
- Peterborough, and so by the Cardike into the north: and from the bridge
- at Cambridge, Bridge street and St. Andrew’s street are continuations,
- in a very strait line and direction, of the Roman road.
-
- <p>July, 1742, Mr. collector Collins showed me several Roman coins,
- curious and fair, both silver and large brass, found lately at
- Gormanchester; Hadrian, Antoninus, Severus.</p>
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_61" href="#FNanchor_61" class="label">[61]</a> The Saxon word <i>stiff</i> seems to be the same
- with the Greek στιβαρος, from στιβειν, to stiffen, <i>durare</i>,
- <i>roborare</i>; στυφεω to stiffen, <i>cogere</i>, <i>constringere</i>:
- but which is the primitive, I shall not determine. There are many large
- <i>tumuli</i>, by the road-side, at Little and Great Stukeley: so one
- at the town-end of Stilton northwards, and another on the top of the
- next hill northward by the road.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_62" href="#FNanchor_62" class="label">[62]</a> Sir Robert Cotton bought the whole room from Foderinghay
- castle, wherein Mary queen of Scots was beheaded, and set it up here.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_63" href="#FNanchor_63" class="label">[63]</a> Durobrivis was at that Roman work by the river side
- in Chesterton parish. Allerton, hard by, was anciently wrote
- <i>Aldwalton</i>, <i>Aldwarkton</i>.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_64" href="#FNanchor_64" class="label">[64]</a> The Castle field was walled about: perhaps this was
- originally one of the forts upon the <i>Antona</i>, built by A.
- Plautius before the Roman road was made.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_65" href="#FNanchor_65" class="label">[65]</a> Castre is called a royal manor, Ingulf, p. 497.
-
- <p>It seems likely to me that Kimbolton was the town where Boadicia lived;
- <i>Kiseni pant</i>, the Icenian valley; as she was making homewards,
- she was met by the Romans at Ravensden, or the Roman valley, where
- the battle was fought; and that they buried her at Reynold, where
- the circular antiquity is, by the road side between Bedford and St.
- Neot’s. It lies near the meadow, and seems to be a British place for
- celebration of sports.</p>
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_66" href="#FNanchor_66" class="label">[66]</a> Mr. Parker, supervisor of excise, gave me a silver
- <i>Domitian</i> found at Castor; re<span class="allsmcap">DIANA</span>, as usual. I
- saw a good brass <i>Galba</i> found there.
-
- <p>I have a silver <i>Hadrian</i> found at the true <i>Durobrivis</i>,
- Chesterton; re<span class="allsmcap">COS. III.</span></p>
-
- <p>Anno 1731 the people of Bernac dug up some urns, with coins in them,
- near the Roman road passing through that parish. Mr. Archdeacon Payn
- showed me a brass <i>Magnentius</i>: there were many urns, coins, a
- brass <i>fibula</i>, tweezers, &amp;c. dug up. I suppose it was a family
- burying-place of the Roman villa at Walcot.</p>
-
- <p>Mr. Terry, collector, gave me a good brass <i>Vespasian</i>, reverse
- <span class="allsmcap">AVGVSTI</span>, found at Uffington.</p>
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_67" href="#FNanchor_67" class="label">[67]</a> <i>Wansford</i> is <i>Avonsford</i>.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_68" href="#FNanchor_68" class="label">[68]</a> Many Roman coins found at Wilsthorp, upon the old
- Hermen-street: it was a Roman station, being the same distance from
- <i>Durobrivis</i> on the old street, as Brigcasterton on the new.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_69" href="#FNanchor_69" class="label">[69]</a> I have several brass coins, found in the fields by
- Ryhall, in the neighbourhood of Brigcasterton; particularly a large
- <i>Nero</i>, of Corinthian brass; reverse, <span class="allsmcap">VICTORIA AVGVSTI</span>:
- another; reverse, a victory <span class="allsmcap">S. C.</span> a <i>Trajan</i>, of
- Corinthian brass; reverse, <span class="allsmcap">CERES. S. C.</span> <i>Maximian</i>,
- reverse, <span class="allsmcap">GENIO POP. ROM.</span> <i>Constantinus Aug.</i> reverse,
- <span class="allsmcap">PRINCIPI JUVENTUT.</span> exergue PLN. percussa Londini Constans
- Felix temp. repar. Nerva. <i>Trajan</i>; reverse, <span class="allsmcap">COS. IIII. P.
- P.</span> <i>Claud Gothicus</i>.
-
- <p>Mr. Beaupre Bell gave me a fair <i>Sev. Pertinax</i>, middle brass,
- found in Tickencote lane.</p>
-
- <p>I saw a silver <i>denarius</i> of Pompey, found in Castreton field,
- 1733, the first in second plate of Patin’s famil. Rom. Pompeia.</p>
-
- <p>I have a middle-sized brass coin of Nero, found at Brigcasterton, <span class="allsmcap">S
- P Q R</span> stamped on the neck. I saw a large <i>Severus Pertinax</i>,
- brass, found there, Mr. Foden’s. Dec. 7, 1731. Lord Ganesborough showed
- me a fair large brass <i>Divo Antonino</i>, reverse, the Antonine
- column, dug up in Exton church-yard.</p>
-
- <p>Pickworth church, to the right, was burnt down, together with the then
- populous town, by the rebels in Henry the Seventh’s time; and all now
- lies in ruins. At the same time Hornfield and Hardwick demolished.
- Pickworth steeple, a very fine spire, and seen all round the country,
- was taken down about A. D. 1728, to build a sorry bridge at Wakerley. I
- saw the lower part of the steeple anno 1731, when it was pulled down to
- build a bridge by Casterton. There was a pretty church and an ancient
- one at Ingthorp, now turned into a dwelling-house.</p>
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_70" href="#FNanchor_70" class="label">[70]</a> Sir Isaac was born at Wolsthorp, a hamlet of
- Colsterworth. Some part of the high dike remains perfect enough in the
- fields over-against Colsterworth.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_71" href="#FNanchor_71" class="label">[71]</a> A silver <i>Trajan</i>, found by the high dike in
- ditching near the Woodnolk in Little Paunton parish, was sent by Madam
- Eyre, of Eastwell, to Lady Oxford.
-
- <p>Many Roman coins found at Strawston, in possession of my neighbour
- Andrew Hacket, esq. and vaults dug up there: it is near Paunton.</p>
-
- <p>William de Vesci gave the church of Ancaster to the nuns at Walton; to
- the knights Templars he gave the churches of Cathorp and Normanton;
- to the canons of Sempringham, and nuns of Ormsby, the hermitage at
- Spaldingholme.</p>
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_72" href="#FNanchor_72" class="label">[72]</a> The name of <i>Kesteven</i> undoubtedly came from
- <i>Causennis</i>; but Brigcasterton is really out of that division:
- Paunton is in the midway of it. Many arched vaults under ground about
- Paunton Magna: in one of them some coiners lodged for some weeks.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_73" href="#FNanchor_73" class="label">[73]</a> Mrs. Woodward gave me a silver <i>Antoninus</i> upon his
- consecration, found at Ancaster: she says, one morning she was there, a
- labourer brought home a dozen Roman coins just then found.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_74" href="#FNanchor_74" class="label">[74]</a> Roman coins are found at Thistleton, near Post Witham,
- and at Market Overton: two large <i>tumuli</i> in a valley, near a
- division-dike, on that beautiful plain called Saltby heath.
-
- <p>I saw a fine brass <i>Alexander</i>, Roman; reverse,
- <span class="allsmcap">PROVIDENTIA</span>, a Genius with a <i>cornucopia</i> and ear of corn.</p>
-
- <p>A mile off Stretton, between Stamford and Grantham, between Stretton
- and Market Overton, is a place called the Holmes, where they find vast
- quantities of Roman coins. Mr. Parker, supervisor, gave me several, of
- the low empire: after a shower of rain, on the ploughed ground, they
- find them plentifully. No doubt but this was a Roman town. I viewed
- it with Mr. Baron Clark, of Scotland, May 30, 1733: it is a villa, or
- shepherd’s town, upon a delightful plain: there is an old well, which
- is new scoured, and the foundation of a wall that inclosed a kind of a
- court: it is near Thistleton.</p>
-
- <p>Mr. William Annis gave me a brass <i>Magnentius</i>, found at
- Honington; re<span class="allsmcap">FELICITAS REIPUELICÆ</span>.</p>
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_75" href="#FNanchor_75" class="label">[75]</a> A Roman Mosaic pavement found in the fields above Denton,
- February 1727–8, of which I sent an account to the Royal Society.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <figure class="figright illowp10">
- <img src="images/i_088.jpg" alt="">
- </figure>
-
- <a id="Footnote_76" href="#FNanchor_76" class="label">[76]</a> I saw in possession of Mr. Terry of Lincoln, found at
- Ledenham, a Corinthian brass coin obliterated, with three holes bored in it.
-
- <p>Over the parson’s gate of Ledenham an inscription of the famous John Dee, minister here.</p>
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote clear">
- <a id="Footnote_77" href="#FNanchor_77" class="label">[77]</a> Ninnius says, Vortimer the British prince was buried here.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_78" href="#FNanchor_78" class="label">[78]</a> The castle of Lincoln was made by the Saxon kings,
- repaired by William the Conqueror.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_79" href="#FNanchor_79" class="label">[79]</a> Captain Pownal gave me a brass <i>Fausta</i>, wife of
- Constantine, found in a barrow near Lincoln, <span class="allsmcap">SPES</span>.
-
- <p>Mr. S. Buck gave me a Crispus Nob. C. brass, found in the rubbish of a
- house, reverse, <span class="allsmcap">BEATA TRANQUILLITAS P L C.</span> struck at Lincoln.</p>
-
- <p>Captain Pownal told me they found coins, scatteringly, as they dug up a
- Roman <i>tumulus</i> near Lincoln, anno 1727.</p>
-
- <p>Sept. 2, 1731, I accompanied Mr. Roger Gale, in his journey to
- Yorkshire, as far as Lincoln, (Dr. Knight of Bluntsham with us) just
- before they had dug up the foundation of the Roman east gate toward
- Banovallum: the stones exceeding large, cramped with iron. Lord
- Burlington was present.</p>
-
- <p>This summer they found two Roman tombs by the quarries on the same
- Banovallum road; four great stones set together like a coffin, and
- one on the top: there were in it the bones of a man, with urns,
- lacrymatories, and coins.</p>
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_80" href="#FNanchor_80" class="label">[80]</a> More brass <i>armillæ</i> in the <i>tumuli</i>.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_81" href="#FNanchor_81" class="label">[81]</a> All the fields about Allington, Fosston, &amp;c. are covered
- over with petrified shells of a particular kind of oyster; they call
- them there crow-stones.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_82" href="#FNanchor_82" class="label">[82]</a> So <i>Sedetani</i>, a people of Spain, in Silius are
- called <i>Hedetani</i>; by Ptolemy, <i>Segesta</i>, a town in Sicily,
- <i>Egesta</i>, &amp;c.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_83" href="#FNanchor_83" class="label">[83]</a> I saw a coin found here, brass, of Claudius; reverse, a
- soldier with a shield throwing the pile.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_84" href="#FNanchor_84" class="label">[84]</a> The countess of Warwick, whose maiden name was Wray, gave
- the manor to Magdalen college, Cambridge.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_85" href="#FNanchor_85" class="label">[85]</a> ——<i>Partes ubi se via findit in ambas.</i>
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_86" href="#FNanchor_86" class="label">[86]</a> June 7. 1732, Mr. John Ash showed me some Roman coins
- found at Ludford by Market Raisin, where he says they find very many:
- it is fourteen miles from Lincoln, and probably a Roman station upon
- the Fossway going toward the sea: the coins were of Constantius Cl.
- Gothicus, &amp;c.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_87" href="#FNanchor_87" class="label">[87]</a> In Bede it is called <i>Tunnaceaster</i>, from Tunna the
- owner, a Saxon, IIII. 22.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_88" href="#FNanchor_88" class="label">[88]</a> The <i>Thane</i> was a <i>count</i>, or minister of the
- king. Tong castle, in Shropshire, upon the head of the Severn.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_89" href="#FNanchor_89" class="label">[89]</a> Near Stanford, in old writings, the Hermen street is
- sometimes called the Foss.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_90" href="#FNanchor_90" class="label">[90]</a> Vide Ogilby’s Survey, [p. 207].
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_91" href="#FNanchor_91" class="label">[91]</a> Godfrid abbot of Peterborough built a new roof and chapel
- at Collingham, which cost him 57l. 15s. 1d. says Walter Whittlesey,
- [p. 162]. this was about 1316. July 10, 1729, the reverend Mr. Welby
- of Scaleford gave me a coin or two, Roman, found near the Foss at
- Crocolana; one remarkably corroded, seemingly of Corinthian brass.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_92" href="#FNanchor_92" class="label">[92]</a> Turketil Hoche gave it, says Hugo Candidus.
-
- <p>I saw two Roman coins found at Crocolana, 28. Apr. 1728. There is a
- long old wall.</p>
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_93" href="#FNanchor_93" class="label">[93]</a> April 28, 1728, I saw at Newark two Roman coins, lately
- found at Brough: they say there is a long old wall there.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_94" href="#FNanchor_94" class="label">[94]</a> Mr. Twells of Newark sent me four Roman coins dug up in
- the fields by Newark; a Magnentius, pretty fair; reverse, P. Antoninus
- Pius; two large Trajans, but defaced.
-
- <p>I guess Newark was built in the later Roman times, for its
- commodiousness upon the Trent, and exhausted the neighbouring Brough:
- both being destroyed by the plundering Danes, perhaps were repaired in
- after-ages, and called Newark.</p>
-
- <p>My cousin, Edmund Dickenson esq. gave me a large brass Verus found in
- Newark fields, 1729, obliterated; an Hadrian found there.</p>
-
- <p>Oct. 7. 1731, I satisfied myself that this was the long-sought-for
- episcopal see called <i>Sidnacester</i>.</p>
-
- <p>I saw a gold Gratian, reverse, <span class="allsmcap">VICTORIA AUG. G.</span> found at
- Thoroton; in my brother Collins’s possession. The rev. Mr. Guy, of Long
- Benington, says they find Roman coins in the fields thereabouts.</p>
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_95" href="#FNanchor_95" class="label">[95]</a> Newark castle built by Alexander bishop of Lincoln.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_96" href="#FNanchor_96" class="label">[96]</a> April 17, 1730, I heard, in the neighbourhood,
- of Roman pavements dug up there, and coins. Burton, in his
- <i>Leicestershire</i>, speaks of antiquities found here.
-
- <p>Upon the Foss-way hereabouts was found a large and fine medallion of
- Corinthian brass inclosed with wax: among other coins, the head of the
- emperor <span class="allsmcap">M. ANTONINUS AUG. TRP. XXVII.</span> reverse, the head of his
- son <span class="allsmcap">COMMODUS CÆS. GERM. ANTONINI AUG. GERM. FIL.</span> it is of that
- kind of medals called <i>contorniati</i>. I think it was found in an
- urn, with a coin or two more.</p>
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_97" href="#FNanchor_97" class="label">[97]</a> At this camp of <i>Vernometum</i>, as in divers others,
- the two <i>brachia</i> advancing inwards of the gate, verge a little to
- the left: the design of it, as I apprehend, is to expose so much the
- more the right side of an enemy entering, who have their shields on
- their left.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_98" href="#FNanchor_98" class="label">[98]</a> A Roman pavement found, 1721, at Medburn cum Holt, near
- Harborough, Leicestershire.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_99" href="#FNanchor_99" class="label">[99]</a> Mr. Lee of Leicester informs me of a Roman urn, in his
- possession, found at High-cross; digging for a vault in the church, for
- the late lord Denbigh, they found a dozen of them covered with Roman bricks.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_100" href="#FNanchor_100" class="label">[100]</a> <i>Cincl squit, natio Guidelia</i>, the Irish nation: so
- they now call themselves.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_101" href="#FNanchor_101" class="label">[101]</a> Near Bensford bridge and Lutterworth, a vast quantity
- of silver Roman coins found anno 1725, now in possession of Mr. Walter
- Reynolds, steward to lord Denbygh of Lutterworth. I saw many of Trajan,
- Hadrian, Nerva, Vespasian, two large brass Trajans. Feb. 9. 1726, I saw
- the following in silver.
-
- <table class="small">
- <tbody>
- <tr>
- <td>Vespasianus Aug.</td>
- <td><i>reverse</i>, Judæa. <i>A prisoner under a trophy</i></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>————————</td>
- <td>pon. max. tr. p. cos. <span class="smcap overline">v.</span> <i>A caduceus.</i></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Vesp. Aug. imp. Cæsar</td>
- <td>pontif. maxim. <i>A caduceus.</i></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Imp. Cæs. Vesp. Aug. Cen.</td>
- <td>pontif. max sedens cum hasta in dex. flore in læva</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Vespasianus Cæsar</td>
- <td><span style="padding-left: 3.3em;"><i>a sow and three pigs.</i> imp. <span class="smcap">iii.</span></span></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Imp. Cæs. Ner. Trajan optm. Aug. Ger. &amp;c.</td>
- <td><i>rev.</i> p. m. tr. p. cos. S. p. q. r. <i>A genius of plenty</i></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Imp. Cæs. Nerva Trajan Aug. Germ.</td>
- <td>pont. max. tr. pot. cos. <span class="smcap">ii.</span> Genius sedens</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Imp. Cæs. Nerva Trajan Aug. Germ.</td>
- <td>p. m. tr. p. cos. <span class="smcap overline">iiii.</span> p. f. <i>A genius of plenty</i></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Imp. Cæs. Trajan</td>
- <td>p. m. tr. p. cos. <span class="smcap">ii.</span> justitia. Genius sedens</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Trajano Aug. Ger. Dac.</td>
- <td>S. p. q. r. opt. principi. <i>Genius of plenty.</i></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Imp. Trajano Aug. Ger. Dac. p. m. tr. p.</td>
- <td>cos. v. p. p. s. p. q. r. opt. princ. Genius cum pavone</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Trajano Aug. Ger. Dac. p. m. tr. p. cos. <span class="smcap">ii.</span> p. p.</td>
- <td>S. p. q. r. optimo principi. Mars gradivus</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Imp. Trajano Aug. Ger. Dac. p. m. tr. p. cos. <span class="smcap">v.</span> p. p.</td>
- <td>S. p. q. r. optimo principi. Genius sacrificans</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Imp. Trajano Aug. Ger. Dac. p. m. tr. p. cos. <span class="smcap">vi.</span> p. p.</td>
- <td>S. p. q. r. optimo principi. Columna Trajana</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><span class="allsmcap">ANTXAICNETPAIANOCCEBTEPM</span></td>
- <td><span class="xsmall" style="padding-left: 5.5em;">4</span><br>ΔΗΜΕΣ <span class="smcap">iiiii</span><br><span class="xsmall" style="padding-left: 5.3em;">0 0</span></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Imp. Trajano Aug. Ger. Dac. p. m. tr. p. cos. <span class="smcap">v.</span> p. p.</td>
- <td>S. p. q. r. optimo principi. Genius cum bilance</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Imp. Trajano Aug. Ger. Dac. p. m. tr. p. cos. <span class="smcap">vi.</span> p. p.</td>
- <td>S. p. q. r. optimo principi. Genius cum puero</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Imp. Trajano Aug. Ger Dac. p. m. tr. p.</td>
- <td>cos. <span class="smcap">vi.</span> p. p. s. p. q. r. opt pr. Vesta sed. cum victoriola</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Imp. Trajano Aug. Ger. Dac. p. m. tr. p.</td>
- <td>cos. <span class="smcap">v.</span> p. p. s. p. q. r. opt. pr. Genius stans cum prora</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Imp. Cæsar Trajan Hadrianus Aug.</td>
- <td>p. m. tr. p. cos. <span class="smcap">iii.</span> Genius cum caduceo</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Imp. Cæsar Trajan Hadrianus Aug.</td>
- <td>p. m. tr. p. cos. <span class="smcap">iii.</span> <i>A female in the posture of imploring</i></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Hadrianus Aug. cos. m. p. p.</td>
- <td>salus Aug. Hygeia</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Hadrianus Augustus</td>
- <td>cos. <span class="smcap">iii.</span> Genius armatus sedens</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Imp. Cæsar Trajan Hadrianus Aug.</td>
- <td>p. m. tr. p. cos. <span class="smcap">iii.</span> <i>a genius with two bustos in her hands</i></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Hadrianus Aug. cos. <span class="smcap">iii.</span> p. p.</td>
- <td>Africa Genia Nili procumbens</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Imp. Cæsar Trajan Hadrianus Aug.</td>
- <td>p. m. tr. p. cos. <span class="smcap">iii.</span> Genius sedens sacrificans</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Imp. Cæsar Trajan Hadrianus Aug.</td>
- <td>p. m. tr. p. cos. Fortuna sedens cum prora</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Imp. Cæsar Trajan Hadrianus Aug.</td>
- <td>p. m. tr. p. cos. <span class="smcap">iii.</span> Genius nudus sacrificans</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Hadrianus Augustus</td>
- <td>cos. <span class="smcap">iii.</span> Hercules sedens cum victoriola</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>—————————</td>
- <td>————Victoria sedens</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Imp. Cæsar Trajan Hadrianus Aug.</td>
- <td>p. m. tr. p. cos. <span class="smcap">iii.</span> Fortuna stans</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Hadrianus Aug. cos. <span class="smcap">iii.</span> p. p.</td>
- <td>moneta Aug. Genius cum bilance</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Imp. Cæsar Trajan Hadrianus Aug.</td>
- <td>p. m. tr. p. cos. <span class="smcap">iii.</span> salus. Hygeia sedens</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>————————————————————</td>
- <td>—————Genius nudus sacrificans</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Antoninus Augustus p. p.</td>
- <td><i>reverse</i>, cos. pulvinar cum fulmine</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><span style="padding-left: 4.7em;">ælius Cæsar</span></td>
- <td>tr. pot. cos. <span class="smcap">ii.</span> Concord. victoria sedens</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><span style="padding-left: 2em;">Faustina</span></td>
- <td>Vesta pulvinar</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><span style="padding-left: 2em;">Sabina Augusta</span></td>
- <td>Concordia Aug. genia stans cum patera</td>
- </tr>
- </tbody>
- </table>
-
- <p class="noindent">These being all of the higher empire, and many excellently well cut,
- indicate that they were hid early, and perhaps about this time, that
- the Watling-street was made: they were found in a hole in the fields
- between Loughborow and the Watling-street, with about a dozen more than
- here described.</p>
-
- <p>Wickliff lived at Lutterworth, his picture in the parsonage. Mr. Button
- of Kimcote, near here, a curious man. Wickliff’s pulpit still left. A
- petrifying spring at Lutterworth.</p>
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_102" href="#FNanchor_102" class="label">[102]</a> <i>Magus</i> rather signifies originally a field,
- or plain, and where probably the old Britons had their religious
- ceremonies, sports, and races, &amp;c. the barrows too hereabout indicate
- here has been an ancient British temple, and I suppose the name of
- <i>Long Meg and her daughters</i>, at the British temple in Cumberland,
- only the remains of the original name <i>Magus</i>.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_103" href="#FNanchor_103" class="label">[103]</a> In Speed’s History of England, p. 261. Maiden Bower
- by the sea-coast in Norfolk, where Hunstanton was built. This was
- undoubtedly a Roman camp there.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_104" href="#FNanchor_104" class="label">[104]</a> At the same time and place, the king, and Bertuald
- archbishop of Canterbury, held a council and enacted canons.
-
- <p>K. Henry I. kept his court here, 1122. as Hen. Hunt says, p. 218. <i>b.</i></p>
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_105" href="#FNanchor_105" class="label">[105]</a> A brass Roman <i>lar</i> dug up about Grosvenor square
- (in possession of Mr. Beaupre Bell) near where the Roman road ran, the Watling-street.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_106" href="#FNanchor_106" class="label">[106]</a> May place, west of Crayford, seems <i>Noviomagus</i>.
- Oct. 1722, many Roman coins found in an urn near Croydon.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_107" href="#FNanchor_107" class="label">[107]</a> Rochester was a very strong place, and the water went
- quite round it.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_108" href="#FNanchor_108" class="label">[108]</a> Bishop Gundulf died 1108.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_109" href="#FNanchor_109" class="label">[109]</a> The river Medvacus runs through Vicenza, a city in
- Italy, built by the Gauls. I suppose our present Britons, or Welsh,
- are Gauls, the same as Cæsar conquered; that the oldest Britons
- are the Irish, who are much of Phœnician original, and part of the
- shepherds banished Africa, and who came along with Hercules Ægyptus,
- Assis, Melcartus, who built Carteja or Cadiz, and civilized the Celtic
- nations, remembered by the Gauls under the name of Hercules Ogmius.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_110" href="#FNanchor_110" class="label">[110]</a> I find in this country, that the word <i>Chart</i>
- generally imports some works of antiquity. Chartway from E. Sutton to Munchilsey.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_111" href="#FNanchor_111" class="label">[111]</a> In Stone church are many Roman bricks.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_112" href="#FNanchor_112" class="label">[112]</a> The name of Watling-street, as it passes through
- the city, is almost lost by the negligence of the inhabitants, who generally of late call it Beer-cart lane.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_113" href="#FNanchor_113" class="label">[113]</a> The ground east of Canterbury is sandy, and favourable for hops.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_114" href="#FNanchor_114" class="label">[114]</a> In this port landed St. Augustin, the apostle of our
- Saxon ancestors.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_115" href="#FNanchor_115" class="label">[115]</a> Vitruvius directs the gates of cities to be made
- oblique. This was called <i>Madan</i> gate, from the figure of a
- <i>woman</i> over it, as the vulgar fancy.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_116" href="#FNanchor_116" class="label">[116]</a> There are a great number of large barrows about
- Sandwich; one at Winsborough, with a tree upon it; so it is called by
- the vulgar, but the learned make it Wodnesborough: between that and
- Sandwich is another, called Marvil hill.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_117" href="#FNanchor_117" class="label">[117]</a> Among the sand-hills by Sandwich I found a curious
- plant, which I take to be the <i>satyrium abortivum</i>, or bird’s-nest
- of Gerard: it has a bulbous root of a red colour; the stem sometimes
- a foot long, whitish like young asparagus, and almost naked; a
- great spike of white flowers, of the cucullate sort, with a black
- <i>apex</i>: they are exceeding odoriferous. I found much <i>eryngo</i>
- there, which smells pleasantly when broke; and on all the banks of the
- ditches hereabouts garden-fennel grows in great plenty.
-
- <p>Sandwich is in a miserable, decayed condition, following apace the
- downfall of its mother <i>Rutupium</i>: it might easily be made the
- best harbour on this coast, by cutting a new channel for the river
- about a mile and half through the sand-hills south easterly; for the
- water of the river Stour would sufficiently scour it, did it run
- strait, and with that direction. All the walls and bulworks of the town
- are dismantled, the gates tumbling down; and a few cannon lie scattered
- here and there. This town likewise might be made very strong; for,
- besides the river Stour, another rivulet runs through it, that would
- keep the ditches always full.</p>
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_118" href="#FNanchor_118" class="label">[118]</a> At Hardres place, the seat of Sir William Hardres, lay
- king Henry VIII. when going upon his expedition at Boloign: he left
- his picture here, and an old dagger, very broad, and about as long as
- a Roman sword: the handle is of silver gilt and enamelled, with mottos
- on it. The old gates of this seat were the gates of Boloign, brought
- thence at that siege by Sir William’s ancestor, who accompanied the king.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_119" href="#FNanchor_119" class="label">[119]</a> By St. Margaret’s are many natural cavities in the chalk
- cliffs, and an admirable large spring arising from the beach with great force when the tide is out.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_120" href="#FNanchor_120" class="label">[120]</a> To Dover from Canterbury the Watling-street is still
- the common way: it is left intire over Barham downs, with a high ridge
- strait pointing to Canterbury cathedral tower: as soon as it enters
- the downs it traverses a group of Celtic barrows, then leaves a small
- camp of Cæsar’s: further on it has been basely inclosed through two
- fields, and levelled with ploughing: then it passes by a great single
- barrow, whereon stood the mill, which is now removed higher up: then
- it ascends the hill to a hedge corner, where are three barrows, a
- great one between two little ones, all inclosed with a double square
- intrenchment of no great bulk: I fancy them Roman, because parallel to,
- and close by, the Roman road: the great barrow has a cavity at top, and
- an entrance eastward; whether casually, or with design, I know not.
- At Lyddon the Watling-street falls into that noble valley of Dover,
- made of two huge ridges of chalk, which divide themselves into lesser
- valleys, dropping into the great one at regular distances, as the
- little leaves of plants meet at the main stem: this valley, when viewed
- from the end, looks like a landscape on scenes lessening, according
- to perspective, to Dover, between the two <i>Phari</i> and the sea at
- the end, inclosed between them. The street slides along the northern
- declivity, crosses the rivulet which wanders through the midst of the
- valley at Buckland, so to Biggin gate, where is its termination, by the
- side of the old port, having now run from Chester about 250 miles. Many
- barrows on the sides of those hills.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_121" href="#FNanchor_121" class="label">[121]</a> Such a Roman <i>Pharos</i> at Damiata in Egypt, the view
- of it in Le Brun, plate 70. letter A.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_122" href="#FNanchor_122" class="label">[122]</a> I suppose likewise that the sails of ships ought to be
- narrower at top, where they are fastened to the yard’s arm, broader at
- bottom, like a cloke; and so they are ordinarily made in some measure.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_123" href="#FNanchor_123" class="label">[123]</a> At Folkstone the famous Dr. Harvey was born, ob. 1657.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_124" href="#FNanchor_124" class="label">[124]</a> The seat of Ostenhanger, through the park whereof the
- Stone-street runs to Limne, was a noble building: they sold it lately
- for 1000 pounds to a mason, who pulled it all down. An inscription of
- the chapel there is now made a stone step in the house of Mr. Smith of
- Stanford; thus copied by Mr. Godfrey:
-
- <p lang="la">IVIL. V. ET. XX A LINCARNATION NOSTRE CHRIST ET LE XII. ANNE DV TRES
- HAULT ET TRES SANT ET TRES EXCELLENT PRINCE NOSTRE&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; ET ROY
- H<span class="overline">ER</span>Y VIII A LE HONEVR DV&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; DIEV ET DE LA GLORIEUSE VIERGE
- MARIE FVT FAICTE ET ACHEVEE CESTE CHAPELLE PAR MESSIRE EDOVARD POYNINGS
- CHEVALIER DE LA NOBLE ORDRE DV GARTIER ET CONTRE ROYLER DE LA MASON DV
- ROY CVY DIEV DDINT SA GRACE ET BONNE VIE ET LONGVE ET PARADIS A LA FIN AMEN.</p>
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_125" href="#FNanchor_125" class="label">[125]</a> Asclepiades says Boreas, a king of the Celts, planted an
- unknown tree on the <i>tumulus</i> of his daughter <i>Cyparissa</i>;
- whence the name of it, and its funeral use. Trees planted on
- Protesilaus’s sepulchre, Pliny, XVI. 44. So an oak on Illus’s
- <i>tumulus</i>, ibid. so on the tomb of Amycus king of the Bebrycians, <i>ibid.</i>
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_126" href="#FNanchor_126" class="label">[126]</a> St. Martin’s day, in the Norway clogs, is marked with
- a goose; for on that day they always feasted with a roasted goose:
- they say St. Martin, being elected to a bishoprick, hid himself, but
- was discovered by that animal. We have transferred the ceremony to
- Michaelmas. Sumner’s glossary, voce <b>ᵹe-beoꞃꞅciꞃe</b>, mentions
- the <i>alæ</i> of the northern people, meaning such a religious
- ceremony as we have been speaking of: and, if one consults Skinner’s
- <i>Etymologicon</i> for the derivation of our word <i>ale</i>, we may
- be apt to suspect it is most reasonable to refer it to this custom,
- from the incongruity of his.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_127" href="#FNanchor_127" class="label">[127]</a> This work on the outside of the gates is called
- <i>titulus</i> by Hyginus: he orders it to be sixty foot distant from
- the gate. The word and thing, whether round or square, is analogous to
- our modern priest-cap, as called: perhaps it should be <i>tutulus</i>.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_128" href="#FNanchor_128" class="label">[128]</a> Captain Madox sent me some Roman coins; a Maximian
- pretty large, LON&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;; with an instrument of brass.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_129" href="#FNanchor_129" class="label">[129]</a> In Weekfield, much foundations of houses, coins, &amp;c.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_130" href="#FNanchor_130" class="label">[130]</a> Divitiacus, king of the Gauls, had a great command in
- Britain, in <i>Belgium</i>, and seems to have given his name to the Devizes, upon his frontier.
-
- <p>Wells remains of the <i>Belgæ</i>.</p>
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_131" href="#FNanchor_131" class="label">[131]</a> A most noble busto in brass found at the Bath, anno
- 1727. Mr. Gale says it is not easy to know whether it be a man’s or a
- woman’s: I suppose it is the Genius of the city, buried there for luck
- sake. Such another found in the middle of Paris, very deep, with a
- mural crown on; and such a one had ours, the holes being visible where
- it was fastened.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_132" href="#FNanchor_132" class="label">[132]</a> In the public papers, Jan. 1722–3, at Corton,
- Somersetshire, a small Roman urn full of coins, Valerian, Gallienus,
- Aurelian, in the hands of Mr. Tho. Nash, rector there.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_133" href="#FNanchor_133" class="label">[133]</a> Some have had a notion that Joseph of Arimathea was
- buried at Montague hill, not at Glasenbury; but if Joseph ever was in
- Britain, it is most likely he was buried really at Glasenbury: and
- probably it is Simon the Zealot, or Canaanite, one of our Saviour’s
- apostles, that is buried at Montague; the two stories being confounded,
- and perhaps two made of one: for that Simon preached in Britain,
- wrought miracles here, was martyred and buried in Britain, we have the
- express testimony, and very ancient, of Nicephorus, Dorotheus, the
- Greek Monologies, wherein he is said to be crucified and buried there.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_134" href="#FNanchor_134" class="label">[134]</a> A broad Roman sword found here, 1688. Here is a spring.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_135" href="#FNanchor_135" class="label">[135]</a> Alexander, at building Alexandria, marked the track of
- the walls with bread-corn.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_136" href="#FNanchor_136" class="label">[136]</a> Urbs primum in medio regionis maximè condatur, delecto
- in loco qui cæteras quoque opportunitates complectatur, quas &amp;
- concipere &amp; designare minimè difficile est; deinde in partes duodecim
- distributio fiat, ut Vestae prima Jovique atque Minervæ consecretur; &amp;
- illa urbis pars Arx nuncupetur, &amp; septo diligenter muniatur: &amp; ex eo
- urbem &amp; regionem in duodecim partes distribuant: vici præterea in 12
- partes erunt distribuendi, sicuti &amp; cæteræ civium facultates ut ex 12
- partium constitutione cursuum lustrationes commodius peragi possint:
- 12 quoque partes 12 diis erunt deinceps attribuendæ; &amp; unaquæque pars,
- ex ejus dei nomine cui illa obtigerit, erit nuncupanda, ut tribus ipsa
- sit suo &amp; tutelari deo cognominata; sed ut 12 urbis membra, sicuti in
- reliqua regione factum est, singulatim in duas habitationes fuerunt
- dividenda, quarum una circa medium sit, altera circa extremum; &amp;
- habitationis quidem ordo &amp; ratio hunc in modum conformetur.—All this
- Plato learnt from the Jewish œconomy.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_137" href="#FNanchor_137" class="label">[137]</a> It pleases me to inquire the names of these old things,
- however aukward. Quære, Whether it means the name of the person buried
- there, or the god worshipped there, <i>Baal</i>, <i>Belinus</i>; or
- that it signifies only an eminence, <i>bal</i>, <i>fal</i>?
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_138" href="#FNanchor_138" class="label">[138]</a> <i>Opus tessellatum</i> found in the castle.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_139" href="#FNanchor_139" class="label">[139]</a> Eubulus greeteth thee, and Pudens, and Linus, and
- Claudia, and all the brethren.—See Fuller’s Church History, and Usher.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_140" href="#FNanchor_140" class="label">[140]</a> Mr. Terry of Lincoln tells me, at Tangham near Farnham,
- innumerable Roman coins, urns, and antiquities, are dug up every
- where in hedge-rows: vast quantities of them, which he got, he gave
- to Oxford. This perhaps was the site of <i>Calleva</i>. Many pillars,
- pilasters, capitals, bases, marble tables, &amp;c. dug up there continually;
- many in possession of George Woodroff, esq. late owner of the estate:
- he had many pecks of coins found there.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_141" href="#FNanchor_141" class="label">[141]</a> A large parcel of it, a quarter of a mile long, is
- still perfect to the east of the brook, where the powder mills are on
- Hounslow heath, where the common road goes southward to pass it.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_142" href="#FNanchor_142" class="label">[142]</a> The <i>via Trinovantica</i>.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_143" href="#FNanchor_143" class="label">[143]</a> November, 1731, a labourer dug up an urn full of silver
- Roman coin, at Turnham green, as repeated in the public prints.
- </div>
-
- <div class="footnote">
- <a id="Footnote_144" href="#FNanchor_144" class="label">[144]</a> Stanes was fenced round with a ditch.
- </div>
-
- <h2>Illustration Transcriptions:</h2>
-
- <div class="center mt3 bt" id="t_001">
- <div>Page 1</div>
- <div class="bbox left mt1" style="width: 11em; padding-left: 0.5em" lang="la"><i>Ingratiam Itinerantium<br>
- Curiosorum <span class="smcap">Antonini</span></i><br>
- Aug. <i><span class="smcap">Itinerarium</span></i> per<br>
- <span class="smcap large gesperrt1">Britanniam.</span><br>
- tentavit <i>W. Stukeley 1723</i>.</div>
- <div class="mt2"><a href="#i_001">Return</a></div>
- </div>
-
- <div class="center mt3 bt" id="t_010_11">
- <div>Page 10</div>
- <table class="small top border">
- <thead>
- <tr>
- <th colspan="4">Transcription</th>
- </tr>
- </thead>
- <tbody>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="4"><a id="FNanchor_8" href="#Footnote_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a>Duke Oslac, 960, in the time of Edgar, says Ingulfus,
- p. 67. falsly sirnamed De Wake in the Life of Hereward.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Goda</td>
- <td>Walt. Mant.</td>
- <td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><a id="FNanchor_9" href="#Footnote_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a>Ralph E. of Hereford, sirnamed Scalre.</td>
- <td colspan="3"><a id="FNanchor_10" href="#Footnote_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a>Morcar, Lord of Brun, second son of Algar
- earl of Leicester. V. Peck, A. S. iii. f. 28.<a id="FNanchor_11" href="#Footnote_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Roger, Lord of Brun 1060.</td>
- <td>Leofric</td>
- <td colspan="2">Edina, great grand-daughter of Oslac. Vita Hereward. Ingulf. p. 67.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><a id="FNanchor_12" href="#Footnote_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a>Hereward the famous outlaw</td>
- <td colspan="3">Thurfrida, vit. Hereward. This Hereward was the hero of his time, and
- did many notable exploits. He was nephew to Brando, abbot of Peterburgh. Vid. Dugdale’s Imbanking.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2">Hugh Evermue, lord of Deping and Brun.</td>
- <td colspan="2">Thurfrida heiress. Ingulph. p. 67.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">11</span>Richard de Rulos</td>
- <td colspan="3">only daughter. Ingulph. anno 1114. and Petr. Blesens.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="3">Baldwin Fitz-Gilbert, earl of Glomery, founder of Deping priory, ob. 1171, <i>Monast. Anglican.</i>
- Vol. I. p. 469. Vol. II. p. 23. York’s Heraldry, 191.</td>
- <td>Adheldis anno 1138.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Hugh de Wac</td>
- <td colspan="2">Emma, daughter and heir of Baldwin earl of Glocester. <i>Monast. Angl.</i> Vol. I. p. 462. Vol. II. 236.</td>
- <td>Rogerus.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="3">Baldwin lord Wake he founded the abbey of Brun, 1140. He gave the priory of Deeping to Thorney abbey,
- ob. 1156, and was buried at Thorney abbey. Dugdale’s Baronage.</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2">Baldwin, lord Wake and Lydel, in Cumberland: he died the 20th of July, 1224, buried at Harombel, a castle in Gascoign.</td>
- <td><sup>1</sup> Alicia</td>
- <td><sup>2</sup> Joscelyn de Styvecle, lord of Great Styvecle, com. Hunt. Inquisit. 38. H. III 2. Vincent ABC, N. 43. p. 891.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Baldwin lord Wake: he died 1213. Dugdale’s Baronage.</td>
- <td colspan="2">Isabella, daughter and heir of Wil. Bruer lord of Torbay, son of Henry de Bruer.</td>
- <td>Beatrix de Vanne, concubine of Reginald earl of Cornwall.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Hugh Wake, lord of Wake, Lydel and Brun: he died 1233.</td>
- <td colspan="2"><sup>1</sup> Johanna, heiress of Nicholas d’Estotvil lord of Cotingham, who died 1220: she died on St. Ambrose’s day 1260.
- <i>Mon. Angl.</i> Vol. II. p. 348.</td>
- <td><sup>2</sup> Hugh Bigod lord justice of England.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td rowspan="2" colspan="2">Baldwin, lord of Wake, Brun, Lydel and Cotingham, died <i>prid. non. Feb.</i> 1281, mentioned in Rymer’s <i>Fœdera</i> I. p. 777.</td>
- <td>Hugh Wake. Rymer’s Fœd. I. p. 493.</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Elinor, daughter of Sir John Montgomery.</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td>
- <td colspan="2">Sir Hugh de Wake, his father, gave him the manors of Deeping and Blisworth, Northamptonshire.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>John de Wake: he died 4 Ap. 1304.</td>
- <td>Johanna</td>
- <td colspan="2">St. John lord St. John = Mirabella = Thomas Aspal.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Sir Tho. Wake, knight</td>
- <td>Alice, daughter and coheir of Sir John Pateshul, knight.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td rowspan="2">Edmund Plantagenet of Woodstock, earl of Kent, third son of king Ed. I.</td>
- <td rowspan="2">Margaret, sister and heir.</td>
- <td rowspan="2">Thomas de Wake ob. 4 july 1343. he founded the abbey of Hautemprise, in Yorkshire, then removed it to
- Cotingham 1322. The original seal of that abbey is in the hands of John Warburton, esq. Somerset herald,
- and was engraven by the Antiquarian society, London.</td>
- <td>Blanch, daughter of Henry Plantagenet, Earl of Lancaster.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>John L. Wake, ob. s.p.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td rowspan="2" colspan="2">Sir Thomas Holland, one of the founders of the order of the Garter.</td>
- <td rowspan="2"><sup>2</sup> Joan the fair maid of Kent.</td>
- <td><sup>1</sup> Wil. Montacute, earl of Salisbury.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><sup>3</sup> Edward the black prince.</td>
- </tr>
- </tbody>
- </table>
- <div class="mt2"><a href="#i_010-11">Return</a></div>
- </div>
-
- <div class="center mt3 bt" id="t_023">
- <div>Page 23</div>
- <table class="small top mt2 border">
- <thead>
- <tr>
- <th colspan="3">Transcription</th>
- </tr>
- </thead>
- <tbody>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="3">Thomas de Multon, lord Egremont, and lord of Holbech, obtained a market for Fleet, 9 Jo.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Robert Romley,</td>
- <td colspan="2">daughter of Wm. Meschines, lord of Coupland.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Wm. Duncanson</td>
- <td>Alice, heiress.</td>
- <td>Hugh de Morvile, lord of Burgh upon Sands, chief forester of Cumberland.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Richard de Lucy lord Egremont</td>
- <td><sup>1</sup> Ada, coheiress</td>
- <td><sup>2</sup> Thomas de Multon obtained a market and fair for Holbech, 37 Hen. III.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Amabilis, heiress</td>
- <td>Lambert de Multon, 1270.</td>
- <td>Thomas de Multon, lord of Burgh, in Cumberland.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Thomas de Multon, 31 Ed. I. 1303.</td>
- <td>Thomas de Multon lord of Burgh, 20 Ed. I.</td>
- <td>Maud de Vaulx, heiress of Gillesland, daughter of Hubert de Vaulx.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="3">Thomas de Multon, lord Egremont.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Thomas de Multon, lord Egremont, ob. 15 Ed. II.</td>
- <td colspan="2">daughter of Rich. de Burgh, earl of Ulton.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>John de Multon, lord Egremont, ob. s. p. 9 Ed. III.</td>
- <td>Thomas de Multon, lord of Burgh, Gillesland and Holbech, 21 Ed. I. and 2 Ed. II. <i>Inquisit. post mortem.</i></td>
- <td>Isabel.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Ranulf de Dacre, lord of Drumbough castle</td>
- <td colspan="2">Margaret, heiress. Maud, says Camden.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Thomas Dacre, esq. lord of Holbech, 1450.</td>
- <td colspan="2">Philippa, ob. 1453.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td colspan="2">Humphry Dacre, esq.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td colspan="2">Sir Ralf de Dacre, lord of Holbech, 1470.</td>
- </tr>
- </tbody>
- </table>
- <div class="mt2"><a href="#i_023a">Return</a></div>
- </div>
-
- <div class="center mt3 bt" id="t_025">
- <div>Page 25</div>
- <table class="small top mt2 border">
- <thead>
- <tr>
- <th colspan="3">Transcription</th>
- </tr>
- </thead>
- <tbody>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2">Andrew de Craon, lord of Craon, of Bruslon, and of Loches. lozengé o. &amp; g.</td>
- <td>Agnes, daughter of Fulk, the good count of Anjou, and lord of Loches.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2">Lisois the elder, lord of Craon: he lived in the time of Nerra, earl of Anjou.</td>
- <td>Artus de Craon, chambrier de l’abbay de St. Aubin d’Angers.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="3">Suhard de Craon the elder, lord of Craon.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Lisois de Craon the younger, author of the elder or English house of Craon: he was lord of Mordelles. V. Histoire de Sablé, p. 109, 110.</td>
- <td>Guerin de Craon, lord of Craon. He doing homage for his baronage to Conan II. duke of Britany, instead of Geffrey
- Martel, earl of Anjou, who claimed that service, it was confiscated; whereupon he waged war, but was wounded therein, and died.</td>
- <td>Suhard de Craon the younger.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2">Robté de Craon, heiress</td>
- <td>Robert de Vitré, lord of Vitré.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Robert de Nevers, sirnamed the Burgundian, or Allobrog.</td>
- <td>Avis de Sablé.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Hildeberg married to Herbert Marquis of</td>
- <td>Inogen de Vitré.</td>
- <td>Reynold the Burgundian, lord of Craon.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td colspan="2">Authors of the second house of Craon, of special note in France. He founded the abbey of Roé,
- in the neighbourhood of Craon, 1096. His Cri d’Arms was <span class="smcap">Cleriau</span>.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Geffry, first prior to the abbey of St. Evron in Normandy, after abbot of Croyland, ob. 1124.</td>
- <td rowspan="2" colspan="2">Guy de Croun, baron Croun of Frieston, near Boston, Lincolnshire, given him by William
- the Conqueror, with whom he came into England. He had another seat at Burton Crown, near (Sleaford) so called
- from him, as now Pedwardyn from his descendants: he had much land in Ashby, Ravendale, Wade, and Bliton, com. Linc. 20 W. I.
- as appears in Domesday. He possessed no less than sixty lordships. He gave to the priory of Spalding, refounded about this time by his
- countryman, Ivo Talbois, one carucat of land in that town, anno 1081. Histoir. de Sablé, p, 138. thus says the charter of donation.
- Guy de Croun, in obedience to the divine inspiration, out of his ability, gave a certain parcel of his estate to GOD and St. Nicholas,
- for the soul of William the king, and Maud the queen, and for the soul of William the First, that the Lord would grant him success in
- his reign, and bring him to a good end; one carucat of land in Spaldingue, with the appurtenances; his wife, all his sons and
- daughters, and brothers, consenting thereto, for the good of his soul.——He likewise gave ten carucats of land in Pynchbeck to
- the abbey of Croyland, and two carucats in Spalding to the same.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Robert, monk of St. Evron, was afterwards abbot of Thorney.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Godfrey de Croun, first prior of Frieston.</td>
- <td>Emme.</td>
- <td>Roger de Croun.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td>
- <td>William de Crown.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2">Alan de Croun Baron Croun. He was in highest favour with king Hen. I. to whom he was great steward of the houshold.
- Petrus Blesensis says he was dear to the king above all other barons of the court, and whose
- counsel he valued most. He so far excelled in industry, honesty, wisdom, and sanctity, that he
- was called the King’s God, by the soldiery. In his country at Frieston, he was called <i>Alan</i>
- <i>Open-doors</i>, because he kept so great a house, says Leland in his Itinerary, Vol. VII. p. 126.
- He owned Southwarnburn, com. Southampt. He founded the priory of Frieston for Benedictin
- monks, subject to the abbot of Croyland, anno 1142: he was buried at Croyland abbey, on the
- south side of the high altar. See the <i>Monasticon</i>, and History of Ingulfus and Continuation, and Dugdale’s Baronage.</td>
- <td>Muriel.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Matilde.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2">1150. Maurice de Craon, baron Croun. He was made keeper of the castle of Ancennis by
- Hen. II. and governor of the provinces of Anjou and Main: he was one of the plenipotentiaries
- on the part of the king, in the treaties between him and Philip the August, king of France.</td>
- <td>Clarice, sister to Henry III. vid. liberat. 35 Hen. III. m. 3. and Claus. 45 Hen. III.
- m. 13. she was after married again to the duke of Burgundy, 33 Hen. III. 39 Hen. III. p. 2. m. 2.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2">Maurice de Croun, nepos regis &amp; nepos Almerici de Croun, cui manerium de Burn
- restituitur post mortem Almerici de Croun.—Pat. 55. Hen. III. p. 1. m. 28.</td>
- <td>Guy de la Val, qui habuit in liberio maritagio quasdam terras in Walttun com. Surr.
- sed forisfecit illas adherendo baronibus contra Ric. I. v. Lib. Feod. Milit. f. 16. b.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Ralf de Croun.</td>
- <td colspan="2">Peter de Croun habet Hamma, Waletun &amp; Ewell, cum. Surr. Pat. 17 Hen. I. m. 24.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2">1180. Guy de Crown, baron Crown He accompanied Richard I. in his voyage to the Holy Land, 1192; was present at the treaty
- between him and Tancred, king of Sicily, recited by Hoveden, annal. He confirmed, to the
- nuns of Haverholm, pasture for ninescore sheep in Bloxam fields, even to the bounds between
- them and the abbot of Grelle.—V. lib. R. Dodsworth, vocat. petigrees, tom. i. f. 94. b.</td>
- <td>Isabel.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Walter to Langtot</td>
- <td>Matildis.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Ranulf de Langtot</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td rowspan="3">There were lands in Sutton held of the
- honour of Croun,—Inquis. Wap. Elhou. 1 Ed. III. feod. milit. 42. offic. armor, p. 32.</td>
- <td>Robert de Vallibus came into England with William the Conqueror.</td>
- <td>Agnes.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>William de Vaux</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Robert de Vaux</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>1. William Longchamp<br>2. Henry de Mara. Gules, a fesse between three water-budgets ermine.</td>
- <td>Petronilla.</td>
- <td><sup>3</sup> Oliver de Vaux. Chequy argent and gules.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Sir Henry de Longchamp: he died March 1274, and was buried at Swynshed abbey; his heart at Burton Pedwardin, as called
- from his son in-law, before the altar in the chapel of the Virgin Mary. Or, three crescents gules, charged each with a mullet argent.<br>
- There is a great Fe gatery’d about Bostone parts by the name of <i>Petronille de la Corone</i> dowghter
- by <i>Lykelehode de la Corone</i> foundar of Frieston priorye, and buried at Croyland. This fe is
- now paid to the lord Rosse, but the Richmount fe is greater there. There is also anoder fee
- cauld <i>Pepardyne</i>; and that the lord Linsey had: and the owners of these fees be lords
- of the town of Boston.—Leland’s Itin. Vol. VIII. p. 124.—Petronil had lands in Holbech
- and Quaplode.—Inquis. Elho, 1 Ed. III. feod. milit. 42. offic. arm. p. 32. and
- in Weston, p. 33, 20, 21, &amp;c. <i>Juratores dicunt quod Petronilla de vallibus tenet</i>
- <i>de domino rege in capite manerium de Warnburn com. Southampton &amp; in com. Lincoln 22.</i>
- <i>feod. mil. &amp; dimid. per Baronium &amp; quod Henricus de Longo Campo est ejus propinquior</i>
- <i>heres &amp; ætat. 50. &amp; amplius.</i>—Escaet. 46 Hen. III. N. 5.</td>
- <td>Sibilla, daughter of Sir Thomas Heringande, com. Suff. Az. six herrings argent.</td>
- <td>John de Vaux owned the manor of Frieston, and certain lands in Boston by gift of his mother, in
- of his mother, <i>in</i> <i>feodo talliata, ob.</i> 1288.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Roger Penwardyn.</td>
- <td rowspan="2" colspan="2">Alice: she died 15 May, 1330, was buried in the north side of the chapel of the Virgin Mary, in Burton Pedwardin,
- where I saw her tomb-stone, with this inscription, 1714.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Gules, two lions regardant argent.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="3" class="tdc"><div>DAME ALIS. DE. PETTEWARDIN. GYT. ITY. DEU. DE. SA. ALME GYT. MERCI.</div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Petronil</td>
- <td>Sir William de Nereford.</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Matilda, ob. S. P.</td>
- <td>William de Roos, lord of Hamlake, Gules, three water-budgets argent.</td>
- <td>Maud, heiress.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td> William de Ros.</td>
- <td colspan="2">Margery, one of the coheiresses of Giles de Badlismere, lord of Chillham. Their descendants
- were barons Ros; and the Manors’s, earls of Rutland, married an heiress.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Thangharat, sister to Thelwell Llewellin, prince of Wales.</td>
- <td><sup>1</sup> Wallter Pedwardin, alias Lloyd, lived in the castle of Brampton, in Wigmorland, in the
- marches of Wales, called Waugher Thleud by reason of his white hairs.</td>
- <td><sup>2</sup> Maud, daughter of Sir John Lyngain.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2"><b class="small">anno 1340.</b> Roger Pedwardin II. he built entirely new the church of Burton
- Pedwardin and St. Mary’s chapel there, being on the north side; but the south aile, together with the chapel
- of St. Nicholas, wasrebuilt at the same time by the parishioners.</td>
- <td>Alice, daughter of Henry Longchamp.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td colspan="2">Sir Roger Pedwardin: he died 10 Feb. 1368,
- buried at Burton: he obtained a bull for 530 days pardon to all benefactors towards the church and chapels there.</td>
- <td>Agnes, daughter of Philip Darcy, sister and coheiress of Norman D’arcy, lord Darcy
- of Nocton, Azure, semée de cross croslets or, three cinquefoils ar.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>John de Markham, J. C. Az. on a chief ar. a demi-lion.</td>
- <td> daughter of Nicholas Bottomsell.</td>
- <td>Brian de Pedwarin, esc. 11 E. III. N. 4. Lincoln.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Robert de Markham</td>
- <td>daughter of Caunton.</td>
- <td>Alice = John de Warbelton.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Sir Walter Pedwardin, ob. 11 June, 1405.</td>
- <td>Isabel, daughter and coheiress of Sir Rob. Hilton, and Margaret, daughter and coheir of Marmaduke Tweng, knt.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><sup>2</sup> Milicent daughter of Beckerin.</td>
- <td>Sir John Markham, justic. de Banco.</td>
- <td><sup>1</sup> Eliz. daughter and coheiress of Hugh de Cressy.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td rowspan="2">Sir John Markham, of Nottingham: he was lord chief justice, 10 Hen. IV. buried in Sidbrook
- church, near Grantham. That manor continued in his family till Sir George Markham lately sold it to Sir John Thorold.</td>
- <td rowspan="2">Margaret, coheiress of Simon Leek.</td>
- <td> Walter de Pedwardin.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Catharine = David, son of Sir Daniel Fletwick.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>1430. Sir Robert Pedwarin, ob. 26. April, 1432. <i>fines prim. mich.</i> 8 Hen. IV. Linc.</td>
- <td>Elizabeth, daughter to Sir Edmund Pierpoint, knight.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td><sup>2</sup> Walter Pedwardin, esq. ob. 4. Aug. 1429, 9 Hen. VI. Ecc. N. 7.</td>
- <td><sup>1</sup> Katharine daughter of Ingilby of Ripley, near Knaresburgh.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td><sup>1</sup> Matthew Leak.<br><sup>2</sup> John de Fleet of Framton,esq. a lawyer. Ar. two bars sable,
- each charged with three scallops of the first.</td>
- <td>Katharine.</td>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Beatrice Leak.</td>
- <td>Roger Pedwardin.</td>
- <td>Thomas Pedwardin.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td rowspan="2">&nbsp;</td>
- <td rowspan="2">Christopher Pedwardin, of Brompton, Salop, son and heir, released all his right
- to the manor of Burton Pedwardin, Claus. 7. Ed. IV. m. 8 Linc.</td>
- <td> Katharine.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>Joanna.</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>Alexander Leak</td>
- <td>Margaret</td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td>&nbsp;</td>
- <td>John Quickerell, of Boston</td>
- <td>Ann.</td>
- </tr>
- </tbody>
- </table>
- <div class="mt2"><a href="#i_025">Return</a></div>
- </div>
-
- <div class="center mt3 bt" id="t_85">
- <div>Page 85</div>
- <div class="mt2">Magno NEUTONO <i>Ecclesiam Parochiæ Ipsius Natalibus celebris Summæ
- Observantiæ Monumentum quam pusillum humillime consecrat Conterraneus
- suus W<sup>s</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span> Stukeley, 1722</i></div>
- <div class="mt2"><a href="#i_085">Return</a></div>
- </div>
-
- <div class="center mt3 bt" id="t_091">
- <div>Page 91</div>
- <table class="border">
- <tbody>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdc"><div>I<br><br>
- D ~ M<br>
- G ~ VALERIVS ~ G ~ F ~<br>
- GALERIA ~ VICTOR ~<br>
- LVGDVNI~SIG~LEG~II~AVG~<br>
- STP~XVII~ANNOR~XI.V.~ CV<br>
- RA~AGENT~AMNIO~PERPITVO~B<br><br>
- <i>at Caerlion</i></div></td>
- <td class="tdc"><div>II<br><br>
- D·M·S<br>
- CADIOI<br>
- NIAE~FOR<br>
- TVNA<br>
- PIA~V~A XV<br><br>
- <i>At Adel</i></div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdc"><div>III<br><br>
- MARIE<br>
- OFEIS◌̅CE<br>
- NERIS IEIO<br>
- + VIPIO S C δ I I R<br>
- + ER IIGMEIETRIPE<br><br>
- DIS MANIBVS<br>
- NOMINE SACR<br>
- BRVSCI FILI CVIS<br>
- SENONI ET CARSS<br>
- VNAE CONIVGIS<br>
- EIVS ET QVINTIP<br><br>
- <i>Upon S<sup>t</sup> Marys Steeple Lincoln</i></div></td>
- <td class="tdc"><div>IV<br><br>
- VIBIA<br>
- IVCVN<br>
- DA<br>
- AN XXX<br>
- HIC SEPVL<br>
- TA EST<br><br>
- <i>at Bathe</i>
- </div></td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="tdc"><div>V<br><br>
- D ~ M ~<br>
- IVLIAE CASTÆ<br>
- CONIVGI~VIX~<br>
- ANN~XXXIII<br><br>
- <i>at Cirencester~Glocest<sup>r</sup>Sh</i></div></td>
- <td class="tdc">VI<br><br>
- C·GAVIO·L·F·STEL·SILVANO<br>
- TRIB·COH·II·VIGILVM·TRIB·<br>
- COH·XIII·VRB·TRIB·COH·XII·<br>
- PRAETOR·DONIS.DONATO·A·<br>
- DIVO·CLAVDIO·BELLO·BRI<br>
- TANNICO<br><br>
- <i>at Tours</i></td>
- </tr>
- </tbody>
- </table>
-
- <div class="mt2"><a href="#i_091">Return</a></div>
- </div>
-
- <div class="center mt3 bt" id="t_092">
- <div>Page 92</div>
- <div class="left inline antiqua mt2 mb2" style="width: 35em;" lang="la">Sub marmore isto tenet hic tumulus ossa venerabilis in Christo patris
- et dñi Wiꝉꝉi Smith quondm̃ Coventrens et Lichfeldens ac deinde
- Lincolnien presulis qui obiit secundo die mentis Januarii anno dñi
- millesimo quingentessimo trio decimo cuj̃ aĩe ppicietur qĩ pius et
- misicors in die tribulat peccata remittit</div>
- <div class="bbox left antiqua" style="width: 22em; padding-left: 0.5em" lang="la">Cestrensis presul post Lincolniensis Amator<br>
- Cleriuam multos cis mare transq<sub>ꝫ</sub> aluit.<br>
- Qui utriusqq fuit prefectus Principis aulæ<br>
- Fundavitq<sub>ꝫ</sub> duas perpetuando Scholas.<br>
- Aulaq<sub>ꝫ</sub> sumptu hujus renovata est Enea Chrste<br>
- hic situs est Anime parce benigne sue.</div>
- <div class="mt2"><a href="#i_092">Return</a></div>
- </div>
-
- <div class="center mt3 bt" id="t_093">
- <div>Page 93</div>
- <div class="mt2" lang="la">Erudito Willo Ella A. M.<br>vieario <i>de</i> Rampton vicinam<br>
- <i>Stationem. d.d. W<sup>s</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span> Stukeley</i></div>
- <div class="mt2"><a href="#i_093">Return</a></div>
- </div>
-
- <div class="center mt3 bt" id="t_107">
- <div>Page 107</div>
- <div class="col50 mt2 br"><i>S<sup>t</sup>. Guthlac’s Cross upon the bank, between Crowland &amp; Spalding, near
- Peakill Line<sup>r</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span></i></div>
-
- <div class="col50 mt2"><i>Ivy Cross by Romans bank in Sutton S<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span> James Parish Holland
- Linc<sup>r</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span></i></div>
-
- <div class="center mt2"><i>The Pedestal of a Cross, Hadenham Camb<sup>r</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span></i></div>
-
- <div class="center mt2"><i>A Stone Cross found at S<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span> John Old Castles near the Barr.
- Presented to Lord</i> Harley <i>by M<sup>r</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span></i> J. Mickleton, <i>deceased</i>.</div>
-
- <div class="center mt2"><i>On the Pedestal of a Stone Cross at Drayton near</i> Norwich.</div>
-
- <div class="col50 mt2 br"><i>This Cross was at Ednam Linc<sup>r</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span> drawn
- by S<sup>r</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span></i> H. Spelman.
- Form Octangular, 9 Inches Diam. 4 Sides twice as broad as the other.</div>
-
- <div class="col50 mt2"><i>At Willughby on the Wold, one Stone 5 yards high</i></div>
- <div class="mt2"><a href="#i_107">Return</a></div>
- </div>
-
- <div class="center mt3 bt" id="t_132">
- <div>Page 132</div>
- <div>Borough Castle<br>
- <i>3. Miles S.W. from Great-Yarmouth contains ab<sup>t</sup> 5. acres<br>
- <span lang="la">Statio fuit hæc Præpositi Equitum Stablesianorum sub comite Limitis Saxonici.</span></i></div>
- <div class="mt2"><a href="#i_132_2">Return</a></div>
- </div>
-
- <div class="center mt3 bt" id="t_146">
- <div>Page 146</div>
- <div class="mt2">
- <ul class="left inline">
- <li>A <i>The Kings Bath</i></li>
- <li>B <i>The Queens Bath</i></li>
- <li>C <i>The Cross Bath</i></li>
- <li>D <i>The Hot Bath</i></li>
- <li>E <i>Gascoins Tower</i></li>
- <li>F <i>S<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span> Catherines Hospital</i></li>
- <li>G <i>S<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span> Iohns Hospital</i></li>
- <li>H <i>Bridewell</i></li>
- <li>I <i>The Play House</i></li>
- <li>K <i>S<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span> Marys</i></li>
- <li>L <i>The Market House</i></li>
- <li>M <i>S<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span> Peters Cathedral</i></li>
- <li>N <i>S<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span> Iames’s</i></li>
- <li>O <i>The Abby Gate</i></li>
- <li>P <i>S<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span> Michaels</i></li>
- <li>Q <i>S<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span> Michaels broadstr.</i></li>
- </ul>
- </div>
- <div class="mt2"><a href="#i_146_1">Return</a></div>
- </div>
-
- <div class="center mt3 bt" id="t_148a">
- <div>Page 148</div>
- <div class="mt2"><i>Found in<br>Portugal</i></div>
- <div class="bbox" style="width: 18em;">L · TERENTIO<br>
- M · F · QVIR · RVF<br>
- PRAEF · COH · VI · BRITTON<br>
- · LEG · I · M · P · F · DON · DON · AB<br>
- IMP · TRAIAN O · BEL · DAC ·<br>
- P · P · LEG · XV · APOLL<br>
- TRIB · COH · II · VIC<br>
- D · D</div>
- <div><i>At Bath</i></div>
- <div class="bbox" style="width: 17em;">D M<br>
- SVCC · PETRONIAE · VIX<br>
- ANN · III · M · IIII · D · IX · V RO<br>
- MVLVS · ET · VICTS ARINA<br>
- FIL · KAR · FEC</div>
- <div><i>At Chichester</i></div>
- <div class="bbox" style="width: 22em;">NEPTVNO · ET · MINERVAE<br>
- TEMPLVM<br>
- PRO · SALVTE · DOMVS · DIVINAE<br>
- EXAVCTORITATE TIB CLAVD ·<br>
- CO GIDVBNI · R · E GATAG · N · BRIT ·<br>
- COLLEGIVM · FABROR · ET QVI · IN · EO<br>
- S · PP · S · D · S · D · DONANTE · AREAM<br>
- PVDENTE · PVDENTINI · FIL ·</div>
- <div class="mt2"><a href="#i_148_1">Return</a></div>
- </div>
-
- <div class="center mt3 bt" id="t_148b">
- <div>Page 148</div>
- <div class="col35">
- <div class="bbox left" style="width: 6em; padding-left: 1em;">ILIVS SA<br>VSVXSO</div>
- <div class="bbox left mt2" style="width: 6em; padding-left: 1em;">VRN-VLIA<br>IOP-ILLA</div>
- <div class="bbox left mt2" style="width: 9.5em; padding-left: 1em;">IVLIUS·VITA<br>
- LIS·FABRIGES<br>
- IS·LEG·XX·V·V·<br>
- STIPENDIOR<br>
- VM·VI·ANOR·XX·<br>
- IX·NATIONE·BE<br>
- LGA·EX·COLEG<sub>I</sub>O<br>
- FABRICE·ELAT<sub>V</sub><br>
- S·H&nbsp; &nbsp; S&nbsp; &nbsp; E</div>
- </div>
- <div class="col35">
- <div class="bbox left" style="width: 10.5em; padding-left: 1em;">DIS·MANIBVS<br>
- M·VALERIVS·M·<br>
- F·ELATINVS CEQ·<br>
- MILES·LEG·<span class="bt">X</span>X·ANN<br>
- ·<span class="bt">XX</span>X·STIPEN·<span class="bt">X</span>X·<br>
- <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">H&nbsp; &nbsp; S&nbsp; &nbsp; E</span></div>
- <div class="bbox left mt2" style="width: 8.5em; padding-left: 1em;">C·MVRRIUS·<br>
- C·F·ARNIEN SIS<br>
- FOROIVLI·MO<br>
- DESTVS·MIL·<br>
- LEG·II·AD·P·F<br>
- IVLI·SECVNDI<br>
- ANN·XXV·STIP·<br>
- <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">H&nbsp; &nbsp; S&nbsp; &nbsp; E</span></div>
- <div class="bbox mt2" style="width: 11em;">DEC·COL·NÆ GLEV<br>
- VIXT·A<span class="bt">N</span>·LXXX<sub>Q</sub> VI</div>
- </div>
- <div class="mt2"><a href="#i_148_2">Return</a></div>
- </div>
-
- <div class="center mt3 bt" id="t_154">
- <div>Page 154</div>
- <ul class="inline left">
- <li>a. <i>Little S<sup>t</sup>. Marys chappel</i></li>
- <li>b. <i>where I saw a mosaic pavement</i></li>
- <li>c. <i>pavement of Roman brick</i></li>
- <li>ddd. <i>old Foundations</i></li>
- <li>e. <i>pavement a cross the River</i></li>
- <li>f. <i>Road to Limington &amp;c.</i></li>
- <li>g. <i>White chapel</i></li>
- </ul>
- <div><i>Carolo Lockyer Ar. tab. d.d. W. Stukeley.</i></div>
- <div class="mt2"><a href="#i_154">Return</a></div>
- </div>
-
- <div class="center mt3 bt" id="t_156">
- <div>Page 156</div>
- <ul class="inline left">
- <li><i>1 S<sup>t</sup> Peters</i></li>
- <li><i>2 S<sup>t</sup> Nicholas Priory</i></li>
- <li><i>3 S<sup>t</sup> Mary Moor</i></li>
- <li><i>4 The Deanry</i></li>
- <li><i>5 Alhallows Wall</i></li>
- <li><i>6 Abbot of Tavistocks</i></li>
- <li><i>7 S<sup>t</sup> Edmunds</i></li>
- </ul>
- <div>Gulielmo Musgrave M.D. Gulielmi filio Amico suo d.d. <i>W. Stukeley</i></div>
- <div class="mt2"><a href="#i_156">Return</a></div>
- </div>
-
- <div class="center mt3 bt" id="t_191">
- <div>Page 191</div>
- <div class="mt2"><i>W<sup>m</sup>. Rufus his Tomb</i></div>
- <div class="fleft">
- <ol class="alpha left inline">
- <li><i>the Cathedral.</i></li>
- <li><i>the Kings house</i></li>
- <li><i>the Bishops Palace</i></li>
- <li><i>the College</i></li>
- <li><i>the Ro: road to Southampton</i></li>
- <li><i>the Ro: Road to old Sarum</i></li>
- <li><i>Ro: road to Speen &amp; Silchester</i></li>
- </ol>
- </div>
- <div style="text-align: right; margin-right: 15%;"><i>Dno Rogero Mostyn Barr.<sup>tto</sup><br>
- tab. d.d. W<sup>s</sup>. Stukeley.</i></div>
- <div class="mt2 clear"><a href="#i_191">Return</a></div>
-</div>
-
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