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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..bad6d16 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #69657 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/69657) diff --git a/old/69657-0.txt b/old/69657-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 8315189..0000000 --- a/old/69657-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,16216 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of Itinerarium Curiosum (Centuria I), by -William Stukeley - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: Itinerarium Curiosum (Centuria I) - or, An account of the antiquities, and remarkable curiosities in - nature or art, observed in travels through Great Britain - -Author: William Stukeley - -Release Date: December 29, 2022 [eBook #69657] - -Language: English - -Produced by: Tim Lindell, Robert Tonsing and the Online Distributed - Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was - produced from images generously made available by The - Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ITINERARIUM CURIOSUM -(CENTURIA I) *** - - - -[Illustration: Wᵐ. STUKELEY M.D.] - -[Illustration: _Frontispiece._ - - +Itinerarivm. Cvriosvm. Centvria. i.+ - - _Stukeley delin._] - - - - - ITINERARIUM CURIOSUM: - OR, - AN ACCOUNT OF THE - ANTIQUITIES, - AND REMARKABLE - CURIOSITIES - IN - NATURE +OR+ ART, - OBSERVED IN TRAVELS THROUGH - GREAT BRITAIN. - - ILLUSTRATED WITH COPPER PLATES. - - CENTURIA I. - - THE SECOND EDITION, - WITH LARGE ADDITIONS. - - By WILLIAM STUKELEY, M.D. F.R. & A.S. - - _O Patria, O Divûm domus, Albion, inclyta bello! - O quam te memorem, quantum juvat usque morari - Mirarique tuæ spectacula plurima terræ!_ - - LONDON: - Printed for Messrs. +Baker+ and +Leigh+, - in York-Street, Covent-Garden. - M.DCC.LXXVI. - - - - - TABLE OF CONTENTS. - - PREFACE - ITER DOMESTICUM. I. 1 - ITER OXONIENSE. II. 34 - ITER CIMBRICUM. III. 51 - ITER SABRINIUM. IV. 62 - ITER ROMANUM. V. 75 - ITER DUMNONIENSE. VI. 134 - ITER SEPTIMUM ANTONINI AUG. VII. 176 - THE PLATES - INDEX - - - - - PREFACE. - - -The intent of this Treatise is to oblige the curious in the Antiquities -of Britain: it is an account of places and things from inspection, not -compiled from others’ labours, or travels in one’s study. I own it is a -work crude and hasty, like the notes of a traveller that stays not long -in a place; and such it was in reality. Many matters I threw in only -as hints for further scrutiny, and memorandums for myself or others: -above all, I avoided prejudice, never carrying any author along with -me, but taking things in the natural order and manner they presented -themselves: and if my sentiments of Roman stations, and other matters, -happen not to coincide with what has been wrote before me; it was -not that I differ from them, but things did not so appear to me. The -prints, beside their use in illustrating the discourses, are ranged in -such a manner as to become an index of inquiries for those that travel, -or for a British Antiquary. I shall probably continue this method at -reasonable intervals. The whole is to invite Gentlemen and others in -the country, to make researches of this nature, and to acquaint the -world with them: they may be assured, that whatever accounts of this -sort they please to communicate to me, they shall be applied to proper -use, and all due honour paid to the names of those that favour me with -a correspondence so much to the glory and benefit of our country, which -is my sole aim therein. - -It is evident how proper engravings are to preserve the memory of -things, and how much better an idea they convey to the mind than -written descriptions, which often not at all, oftener not sufficiently, -explain them: beside, they present us with the pleasure of observing -the various changes in the face of nature, of countries, and the -like, through the current of time and vicissitude of things. These -embellishments are the chief _desiderata_ of the excellent Mr. Camden’s -_Britannia_, and other writers of this sort, whose pens were not so -ready to deliver their sentiments in lines as letters: and how hard it -is for common artificers to draw from mere description, or to express -well what they understand not, is obvious from our engravings in all -sciences. I am sensible enough, that large allowances must be made for -my own performances in this kind, and some for the artificers parts -therein, who, for want of more practice in such works, cannot equal -others abroad. I know not whether it will be an excuse, or a fault, if -I should plead the expedition I used in the drawing part; but I may -urge, that a private person, and a moderate fortune, may want many -useful assistants and conveniences for that purpose. It is enough for -me to point them out; to show things that are fine in themselves, and -want little art to render them more agreeable, or that deserve to be -better done; or any way to contribute toward retrieving the noble -monuments of our ancestors; in which case only, we are behind other -the learned nations in Europe. It is not that we have a less fund of -curiosities than they, were the description of them attempted by an -abler hand, and more adequate experience. - -Two or three of the plates are inserted only as heads, being not -referred to in the discourse, as Tab. VIII. the ground-plot of the -ruins of Whitehall. I myself never saw the palace, but was pleased -that I chanced to take this draught of its ruinous ichnography, but -the very week before totally destroyed. Thus much I thought owing to -the venerable memory of that name, which is ever the word at sea with -British ships, and which makes the whole world tremble. Tab. X. is an -ancient seal of the bishops of Norwich.[1] This plate the learned and -curious Mr. le Neve, Norroy king at arms, lent me out of his good will -to promote the work: the seal is remarkable for having letters upon -the edge, represented in the empty ringlet; the manner of it is like -our milled money; but how it was performed in wax, is not easy to say. -Tab. XV. was likewise lent me by Mr. Norroy abovesaid. I design always, -in these collections of mine, to insert one plate in a hundred, of -some person’s _effigies_ that has deserved well of the antiquities of -Britain: it is but a just piece of gratitude to their memory. Tab. XL. -(the Greek view at Athens) I took from an original drawing in Mr. -Talman’s collection. I have some more of that sort: though they relate -not to Britain, I do not fear the reader will be displeased with me on -that account. How much rather ought we to lament the scarcity of such! -What noble monuments of Greece are sunk into eternal oblivion, through -want of Drawing in travellers that have been there in great numbers, or -for want of encouragement to those that are able! With what regret do I -mention that most beautiful temple of Minerva in the citadel of Athens, -without dispute the finest building upon the globe, _anno_ 1694! that -year it was casually blown up with gunpowder, and not a drawing of it -preserved. - -[Illustration: _Guil: Faithorne Sculp:_ - - _HENRICUS SPELMANNUS._ - _Eques Auratus._] - -[Illustration: PALACES. - - _The Groundplot of the Ruins of Whitehall June 14. 1718._ - - _Stukeley del_ _JVᵈᵉʳ. Gucht Sculp_] - -[Illustration: _Ex autographo penes Maiorem et Com̃unitat._ - _Villæ Lenne Regis in Com Norff._ - - I. Harris Sculpᵗ.] - -[Illustration: _A View at Athens._ - - _Ex collectionᵉ Joh̄īs̄ Talman Ar._] - -[Illustration: _101. 2ᵈ._ - - _A View of the Temple of the Winds at Athens._ - - _A Lyon Cast in brass standing by yᵉ Port of Athens._] - -[Illustration: _102. 2ᵈ._ - - _The Temple of Minerva at Syracuse._ - - _The Ichnography of the same Temple._ - - _Stukeley del._] - -[Illustration: _Insignis Synodus quinq, Planetarum Anno 1722, Mense - Decembrifacta ad ho:7 .matutinas._ - - _Gradus Sigittary._ - - _Celeberrimo Hallejo Astronomo Regio tabulam reddit L. M. Wˢ. - Stukeley._] - -The last plate, of the great conjunction of the five planets, I -added as an _æra_ of my book. This memorable appearance, because it -affected not the vulgar like a solar eclipse, was almost neglected -by the learned. I had a mind to do it justice by printing the type -of it from the diagram sent me by the great Dr. Halley. For my part, -I congratulate myself for living in an age fruitful of these grand -phænomena of the celestial bodies, and am pleased, that beside the -total eclipse 1715, we have in the space of two years this great -conjunction, a transit of Mercury across the sun, a comet, the last -eclipse of the sun, and in March next another great conjunction. - -The numerous plates I have given the reader, of ground-plots and -prospects of Roman cities, I thought contributed much towards fixing -their site, and preserving their memory: they may be useful to curious -inhabitants, in marking the places where antiquities are found from -time to time, and in other respects. There are some few errors of the -press escaped me, notwithstanding all my care; but none, I think, of -any consequence. I have taken care to make the Index as instructing as -I could. The title of _Roman roads_ belongs to such as are anonymous, -or not commonly taken notice of: that of _Roman coins_ points to such -places as are not Roman towns, or particularly described. _Etymology_ -includes only such words as are scattered casually in the work, or -matters that are not comprehended under any other head; and so of the -rest. - -One general observation I have made within the short space of time -my travels were limited to, that husbandry, grazing, cultivation of -waste lands, all sorts of trades and manufactures, towns and cities, -are hugely improved; and especially the multitude of inhabitants is -increased to a high proportion: the reason of it is not difficult to be -guessed at. - -What I shall next trouble the reader withall, will be my intended work, -of the history of the ancient Celts, particularly the first inhabitants -of Great Britain, which for the most part is now finished. By what I -can judge at present, it will consist of four books in folio. I. The -history of the origin and passage of the Celts from Asia into the west -of Europe, particularly into Britain; of their manners, language, &c. -II. Of the religion, deities, priests, temples, and sacred rites, of -the Celts. III. Of the great Celtic temple at Abury in Wiltshire, and -others of that sort. IV. Of the celebrated Stonehenge. There will be -above 300 copper plates of a folio size, many of which are already -engraven; and many will be of much larger dimensions. Upon account, -therefore, of the vast expence attending this work, I shall print no -more than are subscribed for; the money to be paid to me only. Thus -much I thought fit to advertise the friendly reader. - - _Ormond-street, 26 Dec. 1724._ - - - GULIELMO STUKELEY, _M. D._ - - _Amicus Amico_, &c. - - _Lubrica Romani dum Tu monumenta pererras - Nominis, & tacito saecula lapsa pede: - Docte opifex, variis seu vim sermonibus addas, - Seu placet artifici pagina picta manu; - Quanta vetustatis summae miracula promis, - Obrutaque indigno moenia celsa situ! - Vindice Te, fossas video procedere longas. - Per loca constratum devia ducit iter. - Nunc via sublimi conscendit vertice montes, - Flumina declivis nunc per aperta ruit. - Castra quot immenso retegis constructa labore? - Et tua non sinit ars oppida posse mori. - Hic mira antiquae pendent compagine portae, - Hic tremulo fulget lumine grata pharos. - Celsior exsurgit chartis Romana potestas - Clara tuis; ultro est fassa ruina decus. - Ecce iterum ingenti pandunt curvamine sedes, - Et plausu resonant amphitheatra novo. - Roma triumphato jamdudum languida mundo - Nequicquam invictam se superesse dolet. - Nec te dira cohors morborum sola tremiscit, - Ast tempus medicas sentit inerme manus. - Quantum Roma tibi, quantum Brittannia debet. - O ingens patriae, Romulidumque decus! - Accipe Phoebea merito dignissime lauro, - Sint, quæ das aliis, saecula sera tibi._ - - I. S. - - - GULIELMO STUKELEY, _M. D._ &c. - - - _Nec sola est medicina Tui, sed Apolline dignam - Artem omnem recolis, mente, manuque potens. - Non modo restituis senio morbisque gravatos, - Ad vitam reddis sæcla sepulta diu. - Te Lindensis ager gestit celebrare nepotem, - Quæque dedit, patriæ lumina grate refers._ - - GEOR. LYNN, Interior. Templ. Soc. - - - In Itinerarium Curiosum amici sui charissima viri - doctissimi & Cl. Domini +Gulielmi Stukeleii+ - M. D. CML. SRS. & Antiquar. Secretar. - - _O Jane bifrons! Temporis inclyte - Vindex remoti, de superis videns - Post terga solus, nunc adesto et - Egregium tueare amicum - Opusque. templi janua sit tui - Serata, dum ex bis nostra quietior - Discat juventus, quid avorum - Indomitæ potuere dextræ. - Quicquid Britannus ferre recusans - Servile collo Romulidum jugum, - Terra sua contentus egit, - Artibus ingenitis beatus. - Quicquid Quirites gentibus asperis - Cultu renidens tradere providi: - Victoriam, Musasque & artes, - Arma simul rapiente dextra. - Nec vestra omittit pagina Saxonem - Sicâ timendum, relligionibus - Valde revinctum: bellicosis - Horribilemve Dacum carinis. - Nec tu recondis facta silentio - Præclara Normanni immemor inclyti; - Quorum omnium est imbutus Anglus - Sanguine, moribus, & vigore. - Quæ mira doctus condidit artifex - Excelsa prisci mœnia seculi, - Quæ strata, pontes, templa, castra, - Amphitheatra, asarota, turres! - Plaudit sibi jam magna Britannia - Antiqua splendet gloria denuo. - Chartis resurgit Stivecleji - Celsa canens iterum triumphos._ - - MAUR. JOHNSON, J. C. - Interioris Templi Soc. +MDCCXXIV.+ - - - In +Stukelejanas+ Antiquitates. - - _Deperditorum restitutor Temporum - Et veritatis in tenebris abditæ - Scrutator eruditus, arte quâ mirâ valet! - Retegit vetustum quicquid obscuro sinu - Abscondit Ævum. Tempus, hic aciem tuæ - Falcis retundit invidam: frustra omnia - Comples ruinis. jam tuæ pereunt minæ. - Ipsæ perire nam ruinæ nesciunt._ M. M. - - - Ad +Itinerarii Curiosi+ auctorem. - - _Quantum Roma tibi, et Romana Britannia debet, - Ingenui Vates, Vir celebrande, canant. - Me nec Roma modos suaves, nec Celtica tellus - Argutæ docuit stringere fila lyræ. - Muneris hoc igitur vani cur hybrida tentem - Normannus, Cimber, Saxo, Britannus ego? - Musa negat, Natura negat, sed suggerit unus - Qualiacunque potest carmina noster Amor._ - - _Gratulor inceptum tibi nobile, gratulor illis, - Inter quos nomen glorior esse meum: - Qui patriæ priscas arteis, loca, nomina, & ipsas - Relliquias sancta relligione colunt; - Quo brevis ostendis conclusus limite campi, - Limite quam nullo clauditur ingenium. - Quòque tuos sensus permulcet amore_ +Vetustas+, - _Qui nullos casus, ardua nulla fugis. - Per salebras asp’ras, per tortas ambitiones, - Et cæcos calles, improbe, carpis_ +Iter+. - _Stagna lacúsque inter, limosáque pascua Lindi, - Romanæ explorans avia strata viæ. - Hic ubi sorte dolens, pelagi tot jugera rector - Æquoris herbosi non sua, rapta tenet. - Plura quidem tenuit, sed jussit Jupiter acres - Martigenas patrui vim cohibere sui. - Haud secus ac jussi faciunt, partémque receptam - Terreni, ut par est, æquoris esse jubent. - Cætera raptori quæ nunc manet Ennosigæo, - Si quibus est armis, est repetenda tuis. - Qui terræ pelagíque adeo declivia monstras, - Et quò præcipites Nereus urget equos; - Tanta mathematicis se tollit gloria vestra - Artibus; at numeris grandior illa meis. - Me rapit addictum veterum admiratio rerum, - Plenáque deliciis pagina quæque suis. - Tu monumenta pius, monumentis adstruis ipsis, - Perdita quæ fuerant, posse perire vetans. - Quid referam quantum tibi debet Classicus auctor, - Qui priscas urbes, castràque prisca doces? - Mercator siccis quærens adamantas in oris, - Non tam conductam versat avarus humum, - Quam tu cum nummos, urnas, & cætera signa - Antiquæ effodias indubitata notæ. - Nomina, quæ fuerant olim, Romana reducis, - Perdita restituens, obsolefacta novans. - Nec te, antiquarum tam mira peritia vocum est, - Fallunt Teutonici, barbaricique soni. - Historiam quantum decoras, si dicere vellem, - Historiam videar scribere, non literas._ - - _Tu das præteritis veluti præsentibus uti, - Et redeunt scriptis secula lapsa tuis. - Detrahis ancipiti Jano mirabile monstrum, - Et recta facie cernere cuncta jubes. - Sed dum commendo tua, carmine digna Maronis. - Ingenii culpâ detero, scripta, mei. - Macte tua virtute esto, patriamque quotannis - Quo pede cæpisti demereare._ Vale. - - R. AINSWORTH. - - - To Dr. +Stukeley+, upon his _Itinerarium Curiosum_. - - Hail, Baxter lives! in each descriptive page - Are seen the labours of the Roman age: - What ere the sons of Rome or Albion knew, - We here discern at one compendious view. - Thus taught we pass the Caledonian flood, - Or fertile plains that smile from Cimbric blood: - Where Vaga’s streams glide murmuring near the tomb, } - (Darksome recess) where mighty Chiefs of Rome } - Have slumber’d ages in its silent gloom: } - Where airy lamps the distant sailor guide, - Or where the labour’d arch deceives the tide: - Where Geta kept the Belgic youth in awe, - Or where Papinian gave the Roman law. - Pleas’d I behold Sabrina’s silver stream, - Or hear the murmurs of the doubtful Teme. - With you, methinks, from Cred’nil I survey - Th’ important conflict of the furious day: - See, see! Frontinus fierce in armour shine, - Where the war burns upon the vale of Eigne. - Here on the plains of Aricon we learn - Life’s various period from the peaceful urn. - Yon hoary Druids pray celestial aid, - Where sacred oaks diffuse a solemn shade; - Each branch aspiring to the blest abode - Lifts up the vows of Britain to the God. - Go on, my friend! the curious theme pursue, } - The mystic scenes of early time review, } - And tell Britannia, Baxter lives in you. } - - JAMES HILL, J. C. - _Middle-Temple, London, Dec. 1. 1724._ - -[Illustration: _Ingratiam Itinerantium Curiosorum. +Antonini+_ Aug. - _+Itinerarium+_ per +Britanniam+. tentavit _W. Stukeley_ 1723.] - - - - - ITINERARIUM CURIOSUM, &c. - - ITER DOMESTICUM. I. - - _I, fuge, sed poteras tutior esse domi._ +Mart.+ - - - _To_ MAURICE JOHNSON, Jun. _Esq._ - - _Barrister at Law of the_ Inner-Temple. - -The amity that long subsisted between our families giving birth to an -early acquaintance, a certain sameness of disposition, particularly a -love to antient learning, advanced our friendship into that confidence, -which induces me to prefix your name to this little summary of what -has occurred to me worth mentioning in our native country, HOLLAND, -in Lincolnshire; but chiefly intended to provoke you to pursue a full -history thereof, who have so large a fund of valuable papers and -collections relating thereto, and every qualification necessary for -the work. That these memoirs of mine are so short, is because scarce -more time than that of childhood I there spent, and when I but began to -have an inclination for such enquiries: that the rest which follow are -grown to such a bulk as to become the present volume, is owing to my -residence at London. Great as are the advantages of this capital, for -opportunities of study, or for the best conversation in the world, yet -I should think a confinement to it insupportable, and cry out with the -poet, - - _Invideo vobis agros, formosaque prata._ Virg. - - I envy you your fields and pastures fair. - -which engages me to make an excursion now and then into the country: -and this is properly taking a review of pure nature; for life here -may be called only artificial, especially when fixed down to it; -like the gaudy entries upon a theatre, where a pompous character is -supported for a little while, and then makes an exit soon forgotten. -My ancestors, both paternal and maternal, having lived, from times -immemorial, in or upon the edges of our marshy level, perhaps gave me -that melancholic disposition, which renders the bustlings of an active -and showy life disagreeable. The fair allurements of the business of -a profession, which have been in my road, cannot induce me wholly to -forsake the sweet recesses of contemplation, that real life, that -tranquillity of mind, only to be met with in proper solitude; where I -might make the most of the pittance of time allotted by Fate, and if -possible doubly over enjoy its fleeting space. I own a man is born for -his country and his friends, and that he ought to serve them in his -best capacity; yet he confessedly claims a share in himself: and that, -in my opinion, is enjoying one’s self; not, as the vulgar think, in -heaping up immoderate riches, titles of honour, or in empty, irrational -pleasures, but in storing the mind with the valuable treasures of the -knowledge of divine and human things. And this may in a very proper -sense be called the study of Antiquities. - -[Sidenote: _Of the study of_ +Antiquities+.] - -I need not make an apology to you for that which some people of -terrestrial minds think to be a meagre and useless matter; for -truly what is this study, but searching into the fountain-head of -all learning and truth? Some antient philosophers have thought that -knowledge is only reminiscence. If we extend this notion no further -than as to what has been said and done before us, we shall not be -mistaken in asserting that the past ages bore men of as good parts as -we: enquiry into their thoughts and actions is learning; and happy for -us if we can improve upon them, and find out things they did not know, -by help of their own clue. All things upon this voluble globe are but -a succession, like the stream of a river: the higher you go, the purer -the fluid, less tainted with corruptions of prejudice or craft, with -the mud and soil of ignorance. Here are the things themselves to study -upon; not words only, wherein too much of learning has consisted. If -we examine into the antiquities of nations that had no writing among -them, here are their monuments: these we are to explore, to strike -out their latent meaning; and the more we reason upon them, the more -reason shall we find to admire the vast size of the gigantic minds -of our predecessors, the great and simple majesty of their works, -and wherein mainly lies the beauty and the excellence of matters of -antiquity. But more especially it is not without a happy omen, that -the moderns have exerted themselves in earnest, to rake up every dust -of past times, moved by the evident advantages therefrom accruing, in -the understanding their invaluable writings, which have escaped the -common shipwreck of time. It is from this method we must obtain an -accurate intelligence of those principles of learning and foundations -of all science: it is from them we advance our minds immediately to the -state of manhood, and without them the world 5000 years old would but -begin to think like a child. Nothing more illustrates this than looking -into the comments that were wrote upon them 200 years ago, voluminous -enough, but barbarous, poor, and impertinent, when compared to the -solid performances of learned men since, whose heads were enriched with -an exact search into the customs, manners and monuments of the writers. -Hence it is, that history, geography, mathematics, philosophy, the -learned professions, law, divinity, our own faculty, and the muses in -general, flourish like a fresh garden richly watered and cultivated, -weeded from rubbish of logomachy and barren mushrooms, gay with -thriving and beautiful plants of true erudition, inoculated upon the -stocks of the antients. - -[Sidenote: _Of_ +Britain+.] - -If ruminating upon antiquities at home be commendable, travelling at -home for that purpose can want no defence; it is still coming nearer -the lucid springs of truth. The satisfaction of viewing realities has -led infinite numbers of its admirers through the labours and dangers -of strange countries, through oceans, immoderate heats and colds, over -rugged mountains, barren sands and deserts, savage inhabitants, and a -million of perils; and the world is filled with accounts of them. We -export yearly our own treasures into foreign parts, by the genteel and -fashionable _tours_ of France and Italy, and import ship-loads of books -relating to their antiquities and history (it is well if we bring back -nothing worse) whilst our own country lies like a neglected province. -Like untoward children, we look back with contempt upon our own mother. -The antient Albion, the valiant Britain, the renowned England, big with -all the blessings of indulgent nature, fruitful in strengths of genius, -in the great, the wise, the magnanimous, the learned and the fair, -is postponed to all nations. Her immense wealth, traffic, industry; -her flowing streams, her fertile plains, her delightful elevations, -pleasant prospects, curious antiquities, flourishing cities, commodious -inns, courteous inhabitants, her temperate air, her glorious show of -liberty, every gift of providence that can make her the envy and the -desirable mistress of the whole earth, is slighted and disregarded. - -You, Sir, to whom I pretend not to talk in this manner, well know that -I had a desire by this present work, however mean, to rouse up the -spirit of the Curious among us, to look about them and admire their -native furniture: to show them we have rarities of domestic growth. -What I offer them is an account of my journeyings hitherto, but little -indeed, and with expedition enough, with accuracy no more than may be -expected from a traveller; for truth in every particular, I can vouch -only for my own share, strangers must owe somewhat to informations. I -can assure you I endeavoured as much as possible not to be deceived, -nor to deceive the reader. It was ever my opinion that a more intimate -knowledge of Britain more becomes us, is more useful and as worthy a -part of education for our young nobility and gentry as the view of any -transmarine parts. And if I have learnt by seeing some places, men and -manners, or have any judgment in things, it is not impossible to make a -classic journey on this side the streights of Dover. - -Thus much at least I thought fit to premise in favour of the study of -antiquities. And with particular deference to the society of British -Antiquaries in London, to whom I remember with pleasure you first -introduced me: since for some time I have had the honour of being their -secretary; to them I beg leave to consecrate the following work. To -the right honourable the Earl of Hartford the illustrious and worthy -President, the right honourable the Earl of Winchelsea, Peter le Neve, -esq; Roger Gale, esq; the illustrious and worthy Vice-presidents, and -to the learned Members thereof. Then, lest I should fall under my own -censure passed upon others, that know least of things nearest them, -I shall deliver my thoughts about the history of +Holland+ before -mentioned, which may serve as a short comment upon the map of this -country which I published last year, with a purpose of assisting the -gentlemen that are commissioners of sewers there, though it is of such -a bulk as cannot conveniently be inserted into this volume. - -If we cast our eyes upon the geography of England, we must observe that -much of the eastern shore is flat, low ground, whilst the western is -steep and rocky. This holds generally true throughout the globe as to -its great parts, countries or islands, and likewise particularly as to -its little ones, mountains and plains. I mean, that mountains are steep -and abrupt to the west,[2] especially the north-west, and have a gentle -declivity eastward or to the south-east, and that plains ever descend -eastward. I wonder very much that this remark has never been made. I -took notice of it in our own country, almost before I had ever been -out of it, in the universal declivity of that level eastward, in those -parts where it did not by that means regard the ocean; particularly in -South Holland, or the wapentake of Elho: the natural descent of water -therein is not to the sea, as the rivers run, but directly eastward, -and that very considerable. Beside, the current of every river is lower -as more eastward: thus the Welland is higher in level than the Nen, the -Nen than the Ouse; and probably at first both emptied themselves by the -Ouse or Lyn river as most eastward. I observed in June 1732, that the -Peterborough river Nen would willingly discharge itself into Whitlesea -mere, and so to the Ouse at Lyn, if it were not hindered by the sluice -at Horsey bridge by the river Nen. I see no difficulty to attribute the -reason of it to the rotation of the globe. Those that have gone about -to demonstrate to us that famous problem of the earth’s motion, have -found out many mathematical and abstracted proofs for that purpose, but -neglected this which is most sensible and before our eyes every minute. -It is a property of matter, that when whirled round upon an _axis_, it -endeavours to fly from the _axis_, as we see in the motion of a wheel, -the dirt and loose parts are thrown the contrary way in a tangent -line. This is owing to the natural inactivity of matter, which is not -easily susceptible of motion. Now at the time that the body of the -earth was in a mixt state between solid and fluid, before its present -form of land and sea was perfectly determined, the almighty Artist -gave it its great diurnal motion. By this means the elevated parts or -mountainous tracts, as they consolidated whilst yet soft and yielding, -flew somewhat westward, and spread forth a long declivity to the east: -the same is to be said of the plains, their natural descent tending -that way, and, as I doubt not, of the superfice of the earth below the -ocean. This critical minute is sublimely described by the admirable -poet and observer of nature, - - _Namque canebat, uti magnum per inane coacta - Semina terrarumque, animæque, marisque fuissent, - Et liquidi simul ignis. Ut his exordia primis - Omnia, & ipse tener mundi concreverit orbis. - Tum durare solum & discludere nerea ponto - Cœperit, & rerum paulatim sumere formas._ +Virg.+ Ecl. +VI.+ - -which may thus be englished. - - He sang, how from the mighty void, in one - Large space, collected were the fluid seeds - Of earth, air, sea and fire; from these came all. - The callow world became one massive globe; - The ocean by the hard’ning ground disjoin’d, - New forms surpris’d the beauteous face of things. - -The truth of this observation I have seen universally confirmed in all -my travels, and innumerable instances of it will occur to the reader -throughout these discourses. I design another time professedly to treat -of it in a philosophical way. But consequent to this doctrine it is -that we have so large a quantity of this marshland in the middle of -the eastern shore of England, seeming as if made by the washings and -_eluvies_ of the many rivers that fall that way, such as the Welland, -the Witham, the Nen, the Ouse great and little, together with many -other streams of inferior note. These all empty themselves into the -great bay formed between the Lincolnshire wolds and cliffs of Norfolk, -called by Ptolemy _Mentaris æstuarium_, as rightly corrected by Mr. -Baxter, seeing it is composed of the mouths of so many rivers; _Ment_, -or _Mant_, signifying _ostium_ in the British language. Beside the -great quantity of high and inland country that discharges its waters -this way, even as far as Fritwell in Oxfordshire; all the level -country lies before it, extending itself from within some few miles of -Cambridge south, to Keal hills near Bolingbroke in Lincolnshire north, -about sixty miles long, known by the names of the Isle of Ely, Holland -and Marshland. This country, since the flood, I believe was much in -the same state as at present, and for its bulk the richest spot of -ground in the kingdom; once well inhabited by gentry, especially the -religious. I apprehend the more inland part of it, the Isle of Ely, -Deeping Fen, &c. was not in distant ages in so bad a condition as now, -because the natural drainage of it was better, before the sea had by -degrees added so much solid ground upon the coasts. - -[Sidenote: +Holland+, _its name_.] - -In this country I have observed abundance of old Welsh words left among -us; and I am persuaded that the name of Holland is derived from that -language, though now terminated by a later word, as is frequent enough. -It signifies no more than salt or marsh land, such as is gained from -the sea; and to this day we call the marshes adjoining to, and sometime -overflowed by the sea, _salt marshes_. Likewise upon the sea shore -they formerly made salt in great abundance. The hills all along upon -the sea bank, the remains of such works, are still called salt hills: -such are at Fleet, Holbech, Gosberton, Wainflet,[3] &c. Many names of -rivers and roads, thence derived, remain still, such as Salters Lode, -Salteney Gate, &c. _Hallt_ in the British is _salsus_, salt, as ἅλς -in the Greek is _mare_, the sea; and most evidently borrowed from the -British, because of its most notorious quality. The adjoining part of -this country in Norfolk, is called marsh land, in the very same sense: -so is Zeland and Holland at the mouth of the Rhine, where our Cimbric -ancestors once lived. In the Cimbric Chersoness, now Denmark, is -Halland, a division of the country by the Saxons called _Halgo land_. -Vid. Spelman’s Glassary, voce _Sciringes heal_. Holsatia, Holstein, &c. -and our Holderness in Yorkshire, must thus be understood. Hence the -isle of Ely too is denominated, the very word _heli_ being _salsugo_ -in the British. This, in the most antient British times, was as much -marsh land as our wapentake of Elho is now, which acknowledges the same -original; _hoe_ signifying a parcel of high ground. - -[Sidenote: _First Inhabitants the_ +Britons+.] - -We may be assured that this whole country was well inhabited by the -antient Britons, and that as far as the sea coasts, especially the -islets and higher parts more free from ordinary inundations of the -rivers, or though not imbanked above the reach of the spring tides; -for the nature of this place perfectly answered their gusto, both as -affording abundant pasturage for their cattle, wherein their chief -sustenance and employment consisted, and in being so very secure from -incursion and depredations of war and troublesome neighbours, by the -difficult fens upon the edge of the high country. Here I have not been -able to meet with any remains of them, except it be the great quantity -of _tumuli_, or barrows, in all these parts; scarce a parish without -one or more of them. They are generally of a very considerable bulk, -much too large for Roman; nor has any thing Roman been discovered in -cutting them through; though, a few years ago, two or three were dug -quite away near Boston, and another at Frampton, to make brick of, or -to mend the highways. I guess these were the high places of worship -among our Cimbrian predecessors, purposely cast up, because there -are no natural hills in these parts; and we know antiquity affected -places of elevation for religious rites. No doubt, some are places of -sepulture, especially such as are very frequent upon the edges of the -high countries all around, looking down upon the fens. Hither seem to -have been carried the remains of great men, whose habitations were in -the marshy grounds, who chose to be buried upon higher ground than -where they lived; as is the case all over England; for the _tumuli_ are -commonly placed upon the brink of hills hanging over a valley, where -doubtless their dwellings were. - -[Sidenote: +Romans.+] - -[Sidenote: _The_ +Hermen Street.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. LVI.] - -But when the Romans had made considerable progress in reducing this -island into the regular form of a province, and began the mighty work -of laying down the great military ways; then I suppose it was, that -they cast their eyes upon this fertile and wide-extended plain, and -projected the draining it. In the reign of Nero, in all probability, -they made the _Hermen Street_,[4] as now called by a Saxon word -equivalent to the Latin _via militaris_. That this was the first, -seems intimated by the name, in that it has retained κατ’ εξοχην, what -is but a common appellative of such roads. This noble work, taking -in the whole of it, was intended to be a meridian line running from -the southern ocean, through London, to the utmost bounds of Scotland. -This may be inferred from the main of it, which runs directly north -and south. And another argument of its early date, drawn from three -remarkable particularities, I have observed in travelling upon it, -and which show it was begun before that notable people had a thorough -knowledge of the geography of the island. One is, its deviation -westward as it advances towards these fens from London: another is, -the new branch, drawn a little beyond Lincoln westward into Yorkshire, -out of the principal stem going to the Humber: a third is, that it is -double in Lincolnshire. Of these I shall speak again when we come to -the following _Iter Romanum_. Now we will only consider such part of -it as has relation to the country we are upon; and that is the road -going from Caster by Peterburgh to Sleford in this county, which is -undoubtedly Roman, and which first occasioned the draining this fenny -tract, and surely more antient than that which goes above Stanford, and -along the heathy part of the county to Lincoln. My reasoning depends -upon the manner of the road itself, and upon that other great work -which accompanies it, called the _Cardike_, equally to be ascribed to -the same authors. This road is nearer the first intention of a meridian -line than the other: but, when they found it carried them through a low -country, where it perpetually needed reparation, and that they must -necessarily decline westward to reach Lincoln, they quitted it, and -struck out a new one, more westerly, that should run altogether upon -better ground. This, if we have leave to guess, was done after the time -of Lollius Urbicus, lieutenant under Antoninus Pius, who with great -industry and courage had extended and secured the whole province as far -as Edinburgh. Then it was they had time and opportunity to complete the -work in the best manner, being perfect masters of the country, and of -its geography: and this road was for the ready march of their armies -and provisions to succour those northern frontiers. But it seems as -if they had long before that time brought the Hermen Street as far as -Lincolnshire,[5] especially that eastern branch, or original stem, of -which we are treating, and that as early as the reign of Nero, and -at the same time made the Cardike. I shall give you my further reasons -for this conjecture, and nothing more than conjecture can be expected -in such matters. - -[Illustration:42·2ᵈ. - - +Bricantiæ Pars+] - -[Sidenote: _Old_ +Hermen Street+.] - -[Sidenote: _The_ +Cardike+.] - -The road which we suppose the original stem of the Hermen Street goes -in a direct line, and full north and south from Durobrivæ, or Caster, -to Sleford; and there, for aught I know, it terminates. It is manifest, -that if it had been carried further in that direction, it would have -passed below Lincoln heath, and arrive at the river where it is not -fordable. It parts from the present and real Hermen Street at Upton, -a mile north of Caster; but this is continued in a strait line, which -demonstrates that it is the original one: the other goes from it with -an angular branching. This traverses the river Welland at Westdeeping, -and is carried in a high bank across the watery meadows of Lolham -bridges.[6] These are numerous and large arches made upon the road, to -let the waters pass through, taken notice of by the great Camden as -of antiquity; and no doubt originally Roman: then it crosses the Glen -at Catebridge, (whereabouts it is now called King’sgate, _via regia_) -to Bourn, (where Roman coins are often found, many in possession of -Jos. Banks, jun. esq.) so to Fokingham and Sleaford. It is now called -Longdike. All along parallel to this road runs a famous old drain, -called _Cardike_.[7] Mr. Morton has been very curious in tracing it out -through his county, Northamptonshire. I am sorry I have not yet had -opportunity to pursue his laudable example, in finishing the course of -it through Lincolnshire: but as far as I have observed it, it is marked -in the map. This is a vast artificial canal drawn north and south upon -the edge of the fens, from Peterburgh river to Lincoln river, about -fifty mile long, and by the Romans without all peradventure. It is -taken notice of by serjeant Callis, our countryman, in his readings -on the sewers. That wise people, with a greatness of thought peculiar -to themselves, observed the great use of such a channel, that by -water carriage should open an inland traffic between their two great -colonies of Durobrivæ and Lindum, or Lincoln, without going round the -hazardous voyage of the Estuary: just such was the policy of Corbulo -in Tacitus, Annal. xi. _Ne tamen miles otium indueret inter Mosam -Rhenumque trium & viginti millium spatio fossam produxit, qua incerta -oceani evitarentur._ And lest the soldiery should be idle, he drew a -dike for the space of three and twenty miles between the Maese and the -Rhine, whereby the dangers of the ocean are avoided; which is exactly -a parallel case with ours. Besides, it is plain that by intercepting -all the little streams coming down from the high country, and naturally -overflowing our levels, it would much facilitate the draining thereof, -which at this time they must have had in view. This canal enters -Lincolnshire at Eastdeeping, proceeding upon an exact level, which it -takes industriously between the high and low grounds all the way, by -Langtoft and Baston: passing the river Glen at Highbridge, it runs in -an uninterrupted course as far as Kyme: beyond that I have not yet -followed it; but I suppose it meets Lincoln river near Washenburgh, and -where probably they had a fort to secure the navigation, as upon other -proper intermediate places, such as Walcot, Garick, Billingborough, -Waldram-hall, Narborough, Eye antiently Ege, _agger_; and I imagine St. -Peter’s de Burgo hence owes its original: and a place called Low there, -a camp ditched about, just where the Cardike begins on one side the -river: another such fortification at Horsey bridge on the other side -the river: all these names point out some antient works. It is all the -way threescore foot broad, having a large flat bank, on both sides, -for the horses that drew their boats. Roman coins are frequently found -through its whole length, as you well know, who are possessed of many -of them of different emperors. Now it seems to me highly probable that -Catus Decianus, the procurator in Nero’s time, was the projector both -of this road and this canal, two notable examples in different kinds of -Roman industry and judgment; and the memorial of the author of so great -a benefit to the country is handed down to us in several particulars; -as that of Catesbridge before mentioned upon the road, and of Catwater, -a stream derived from this artificial channel, at the very place where -it begins, to the Nen at Dovesdale bar: likewise at Dovesdale bar -comes in another stream from the north, from a place by Shephey bank, -called Catscove corner; and this was first hinted to me by our deceased -friend, the learned and reverend Mr. John Britain, late schoolmaster -of Holbech: to which we may add Catley, a town near Walcot upon the -Cardike beyond Kyme; and Catthorp, a village near Stanfield, upon the -road. We may likewise upon the same grounds conjecture that Lollius -Urbicus repaired this work; whence it seems that his name, though -corrupted, is preserved in Lolham bridges; for there is no town of that -kind near it. Vid. Gale’s _Itinerar._ pag. 28. Lowlsworth upon the -Hermen Street without Bishops-Gate, in Spittle-Fields. Certainly this -is a good hint for our imitation, had we a like public spirit. Now this -road thus accompanying the canal, was of great service to the traders, -who might have an eye upon their vessels all the while. And even after -the projection of the other branch which goes to Lincoln upon the -higher ground, the navigation here was undoubtedly continued in full -perfection, till the Romans left the island; for such is its advantage -of situation, that it could never want water, nor ever overflow: that -stream of Catwater seems to be cut on purpose, at least scoured up, to -preserve these uses in drawing off the floods of Peterburgh river into -the Nen, if its proper channel was not sufficient. The meaning of the -word _Cardike_ is no more than Fendike: we use the word still in this -country, to signify watery, boggy places: it is of British original. - -I doubt not but that the Romans likewise made that other cut, between -Lincoln river and the Trent, called the Foss: the name seems to -indicate it, as well as the thing itself; for it is but a consequent of -the Cardike, and formed on the same idea: so that I suppose it was not -originally cut, but scoured by Henry I. as Hoveden mentions: then the -navigation was continued by land from Peterborough quite to York, and -this was very useful to the Romans in their northern wars. The other -way they might come from Huntingdon. - -The 20th of October, 1726, I traced the Cardike round the out-skirts of -Sir William Ellys’s park of Nockton: it runs near the site of the old -priory, whose ruins are just visible: it bounds the park entirely on -the fen side, and is very perfect thereabouts; the high-country streams -from Dunston, and others, running along it. We saw where it crossed a -marshy valley, and reached the opposite high ground in its course to -Washenburgh. A well of the old priory is well preserved, remarkably -good water. - -That part of the Cardike between Lincoln and the Trent was begun to be -cleansed by bishop Atwater, but he died before completed. It is highly -probable that the Romans called our Cardike _Fossa_, which happens to -be preserved only on that part between Lincoln and the Trent. - -The Fossdike in being in Edward the Confessor’s time. Vide Camden, -_Nottingham_. - -Cardike runs close by Thurlby town end. - -The marquis of Lindsey gave me an exceeding fair Maximinus; the -reverse, +GENIO POP. ROM.+ found at Grimsthorp. - -Mrs. Tichmus of Stamford told me she once had many Roman coins, from a -great parcel found at or near Sleford. - -The 18th of October, 1728, I travelled on the Roman road, the eastern -branch of the Hermen Street from Sleford, for about three miles -southward. I observed that it went not to Sleford town directly, but to -the old house of Sir Robert Carr’s, formerly Lord Hussey’s (attainted -for treason in time of Henry VIII.) called Old Place. We saw by the -way, on the east side the road, a mile or more south of Sleford, an old -work, square, ditched about, large, with an entry from the road; the -earth of the vallum thrown on both sides. - -[Sidenote: +Sleaford+ Ro. _town_.] - -[Sidenote: +Stanfield+ Ro. _town_.] - -But it was not enough for the Romans thus to provide for commerce -and travelling, without they set proper stations or mansions for the -reception of negociators and the like. Accordingly we find the distance -between Caster and Lincoln, about 40 miles, has two towns upon it at -proper intervals for lodging; these are Sleaford and Stanfield: the -original names of them are in irrecoverable silence, but the eternity -of the Romans is inherent. At Sleaford they have found many Roman -coins, especially of the Constantine family and their wives, about the -castle and the spring-head a little above the town. It is probable that -Alexander, the bishop of Lincoln, built his work upon the site of a -Roman citadel. Beside, at Sleaford comes in the other Roman road from -the fen country by Brig-end causeway, and at the intersection of these -two roads the old town stood. At Stanfield, which is a little village -near Burn, they find daily the foundations of buildings, innumerable -coins and other antiquities, of which yourself and our friend Mr. John -Hardy have a good quantity. These are chiefly dug up in a close called -Blackfield, from the extraordinary richness of the ground. It stands -half a mile off the road upon elevated ground, whence you may see -Spalding, Boston, and the whole level: it is now only of some note for -a good chalybeat spring. - -I shall rehearse a few things I have noted hereabouts, and then we -will descend into Holland. The following antient part of the genealogy -of the inheritors of Brun, or Bourn, contains several antiquities -hereabouts. The spring-head at Bourn, near the castle belonging to -them, is remarkable for its largeness and quickness. - - -[8]Duke Oslac, 960, in the time of Edgar, says Ingulfus, p. 67. falsly - | sirnamed De Wake in the Life of Hereward. - +------------------ - Goda = Walt. Mant. - | -[9]Ralph E. of Hereford, +--------+ - sirnamed Scalre. | | - | [10]Morcar, Lord of Brun, second son of Algar earl - +---------+ of Leicester. V. Peck, A. S. iii. f. 28.[11] - | | - +---------+---+ +---+ - | | | - Roger, Lord } Leofric = Edina, great grand-daughter of Oslac. Vita Hereward. -of Brun 1060. } | Ingulf. p. 67. - | - +----------------+ - | -[12]Hereward the } = Thurfrida, vit. Hereward. This Hereward was the hero of his - famous outlaw } | time, and did many notable exploits. He was nephew to - | Brando, abbot of Peterburgh. Vid. Dugdale’s Imbanking. - +-------+ - | -Hugh Evermue, lord } = Thurfrida heiress. Ingulph. p. 67. -of Deping and Brun. } | - +-----+ - | -Richard de Rulos = only daughter. Ingulph. anno 1114. and Petr. Blesens. - | - +-----------------------------------------+ -Baldwin Fitz-Gilbert, earl of Glomery, founder of } | -Deping priory, ob. 1171, _Monast. Anglican._ Vol. I. } = Adheldis anno 1138. -p. 469. Vol. II. p. 23. York’s Heraldry, 191. } | - | - +--------------------------------------+-----------------+ - | | -Hugh de Wac = Emma, daughter and heir of Baldwin earl of Glocester. Rogerus. - | _Monast. Angl._ Vol. I. p. 462. Vol. II. 236. - | -Baldwin lord Wake = - | - +-----------------------------------------------------------+ -he founded the abbey of Brun, 1140. He gave the priory of Deeping to Thorney | -abbey, ob. 1156, and was buried at Thorney abbey. Dugdale’s Baronage. | - +-------------------------------------------------------------------------+ - | 1 2 -Baldwin, lord Wake and Lydel, in = Alicia = Joscelyn de Styvecle, lord of Great -Cumberland: he died the 20th of | Styvecle, com. Hunt. Inquisit. 38. -July, 1224, buried at Harombel, | H. III 2. Vincent ABC, N. 43. p. 891. -a castle in Gascoign. | - +-----------------+ - | -Baldwin lord Wake: = Isabella, daughter and heir of = Beatrix de Vanne, concubine -he died 1213. | Wil. Bruer lord of Torbay, of Reginald earl -Dugdale’s Baronage.| son of Henry de Bruer. of Cornwall. - | - +----------+ - | 1 2 -Hugh Wake, lord of } = Johanna, heiress of Nicholas } -Wake, Lydel and } | d’Estotvil lord of Cotingham, who died } = Hugh Bigod -Brun: he died 1233.} | 1220: she died on St. Ambrose’s day } lord justice - | 1260. _Mon. Angl._ Vol. II. p. 348. } of England. - +----------+-------------------+ - | | -Baldwin, lord of Wake, Brun, } Hugh Wake. Rymer’s Fœd. I. p. 493. -Lydel and Cotingham, died } -_prid. non. Feb._ 1281, mentioned } = Elinor, daughter of Sir John Montgomery. -in Rymer’s _Fœdera_ I. p. 777. } | - +-------+ - | | - +---------------------------+ Sir Hugh de Wake, his father, gave him - | | the manors of Deeping and - | | Blisworth, Northamptonshire. - | +-------------------------+ - | | | -John de Wake: = Johanna St. John lord St. John = Mirabella = Thomas Aspal. | -he died 4 Ap. | -|- -|- | - 1304. | +-----------------------------------------+ - | | - | Sir Tho. Wake, knight = Alice, daughter and coheir of Sir - | -|- John Pateshul, knight. - +---------------+-----------+ - | | -Edmund Plantagenet of = Margaret, Thomas de Wake } = Blanch, daughter of -Woodstock, earl of Kent, | sister ob. 4 july 1343.} | Henry Plantagenet, -third son of king Ed. I. | and heir. he founded the | Earl of Lancaster. - +---------------+ abbey of | - | Hautemprise, in Yorkshire, then removed it to | - | Cotingham 1322. The original seal of that +----+ - | abbey is in the hands of John Warburton, esq. | - | Somerset herald, and was engraven by the John L. Wake, ob. s.p. - | the Antiquarian society, London. - +--------------------+ - 2 | 1 -Sir Thomas Holland, one } = Joan the fair { = Wil. Montacute, earl of Salisbury. -of the founders of the } maid of Kent. { 3 -order of the Garter. } { = Edward the black prince. - - -There were other collateral branches of this family about 1244. such as -Thomas Wake, who held lands in Stoke and Irthingbure under the abbot -of Peterburgh. Wydo Wac held half a knight’s fee in Deping, Beresham -and Stow, of the heirs of Hugh Wake the same year. Hugo Wac, Roger Wac, -witnesses to a charter 1152. Rymer’s _Fœdera_, I. p. 12. From Sir Tho. -Wake, that married the daughter of Sir John Pateshul, is descended his -grace the present archbishop of Canterbury. - -[Sidenote: TAB. XI.] - -Not long since some British instruments of brass called celts, -arrow-heads, and bits of bridles of the same metal, were found at Aye -near the Cardike. The 19th of November, 1731, I saw four celts and a -brass spear-head found at Ege, or Aye: the celts were of the female -or recipient kind: they were bought by bishop Kennet, and are now in -the gentlemen’s society at Peterborough. The Druids buried them there, -when the Romans drove them northward: there has been some great work -of the Druids there, as I take it. At Jernham was found an old brass -seal, a man blowing a horn, the legend _John de Sodeburi_, now in the -hands of Mr. Richards of Stanford. At Edenham was a stone cross now -demolished: the inscription on it I have inserted in the Plate of -Crosses: I saw the stump of it remaining not long since: hard by has -been an old castle at Bitham. Grimsthorp, the pleasant seat of the -Duke of Ancaster: the park is very large and beautiful; in the middle -of it stood Vaudy abbey in a vale, founded by Wil. de Albemarle 1147. -some small ruins of it are left: the lawn there, whereon is an annual -horse-race, is extremely delightful.[13] In Hakunby church upon a stone -I read this inscription, - - *Iste fuit Rector Thomas de Brunn vocitatus.* - -Sempringham abbey founded by St. Gilbert lord of the place, and author -of the Gilbertin order, where men and women lived together in holy -community: now an old ruinous seat of the earls of Lincoln. - -Trekingham, so called, as some will have it, from a fanciful story of -three Danish kings there buried: round the font in the church is this -inscription, + *Ave maria gratia p. d. t.* Upon a tombstone in the -church-yard this, - - HIC INTVMVLATVR JOHANNES - QVONDAM DN̄S DE TRIKINGHAM. - -St. Saviour’s chapel at the end of Brig-end causeway is still left, -turned into a mansion house, founded by George of Lincoln, endowed -with lands to maintain the causeway: a legacy highly to be commended. -At Ranceby near Sleford on a hill, many Roman antiquities found, of -which an account in Leland’s Itinerar. Hale Parva, Hale Magna, so -called from the hall or seat of the lord of the manor: in the former -is Helpringham, which I suppose no more than _Hale parva ingham_, the -termination being very common in towns hereabouts. - -[Sidenote: +Holland+ _imbanked by the_ Romans.] - -Having given an account of the preparation made by the Romans towards -gaining this vast tract of fen-land, the Lincolnshire levels, by -securing it from the fresh water of the high countries in that noble -cut called Cardike; we must imagine their next care was to render -it safe from the flux of the Ocean, by making a great bank all along -upon the sea coasts: this was done as to the wapentake of Elho by what -we call the Old Sea-dike, which by the people at this day is said to -be made by Julius Cæsar and his soldiers; as if they had knowledge -of its being a Roman work: at the mouths of all the rivers no doubt -they made gotes and sluices as at present, which was an invention of -Osiris, the great king of Egypt, as Diodorus Siculus tells us, I. 19. -We may well suppose it was performed after the time of Lollius Urbicus, -scarce fully accomplished before: possibly in Severus his time, which -seems not obscurely hinted at by Herodian, III. _Sed in primis curæ -habuit pontibus occupare paludes, ut stare in tuto milites possint -atque in solido præliari. Siquidem Britanniæ pleraque loca frequentibus -oceani alluvionibus paludescunt. Per eas igitur paludes barbari ipsi -natant excursantque ad ilia usque demersi._ But he had it in his -particular care to make passes over the fens, that the soldiers might -stand firm and fight upon hard ground; for many places in Britain are -marshy through the frequent overflowings of the ocean, over which the -inhabitants will swim, and walk though up to the middle in water. To -which description no place so well corresponds. - -That the Romans thoroughly inhabited this fertile plain, the following -instances will sufficiently evince. About 1713, at Elm near Wisbech, an -urn full of Roman brass money was taken up, not far from a _tumulus_ -of which the common people have strange notions, affirming that they -frequently see a light upon it in dark winter nights. Dr. Massey has -many of the coins; they are of the later empire. There is another piece -of high ground near it, where have been buildings. Dr. Massey says -there is a Roman altar in a wall there. At Gedney hill several Roman -coins have been found; some of Antoninus are in your collection. In the -same hamlet, about two mile north of Southea bank, is a pasture called -the High Doles, being a square doubly moted, where ancient foundations -have been dug up, and some Roman coins. Another like square so moted -is in the parish of St. Edmund’s, about the same distance from the -said bank, where the like matters have been discovered. Aswic grange -in Whaplodedrove parish is a high piece of ground, square and moted -about: in this and near it many Roman coins have been dug up, and urns, -which I have seen; some coins in your collection. This is near Catscove -corner; and it was Mr. Britain’s notion that Catus made this work among -many others as _castella_ to secure the possession of the country: -these lie as it were in a line, on the most southerly part of Elho. In -the parish of Fleet near Ravensclow, about 1698,[14] upon a piece of -high ground where buildings have been, Mr. Edward Lenton dug up a large -urn with letters round it, full of Roman coins,[15] about the quantity -of three pecks, covered with an oak board: the urn he broke in pieces: -they were of brass piled edgeways, mostly about the time of Gallienus -and the thirty tyrants as called, Tetricus, Claudius Gothicus, -Victorinus, Carausius, Alectus, &c. I have seen vast numbers of them, -and have some by me: many are in your collection. Near this place runs -a low channel, quite to Fleet haven, which probably then was the chief -outlet of the waters into the sea. Mr. Lenton found some ship-timber -upon it with rusty nails, probably of some Roman barge. None of these -coins were lower than the Tetrici, which proves the imbankation was -made before their time. In the same latitude, and in the next parish, -Holbech,[16] in a pasture called Anytofts, in my tenure, is a like -square of high ground, where rubbish of buildings and coins have been -found; it is moted likewise: not long since a labourer, scouring up a -pit in the mote, took up an urn now in my possession. At Giggleshurn, -in casting up a ditch, were many Roman coins found: we may reasonably -conjecture Moulton hall was such another place originally: and in a -Held not far from thence, called Woods, near Ravens-bank, three mile -south of Moulton church, upon plowing, several Roman urns and vessels -were found, of fine white and red earth; some of them were brought to -Mr. Hardy. At Spalding, Roman antiquities have been found, particularly -cisterns; of which some accounts in the Acts of the Royal Soc. Nᵒ 279. -and there was a Roman castle there, as I conjecture, on the north side -of the town, not far from the river on the right hand of the great road -to Bolton, the square form of the ditch yet remaining. These places, -with some other of like nature, make another line of fortresses through -the middle of the country, parallel to the present towns. I have been -told that at Theophilus Grant’s house in Whaplode, near Gorham’s holt, -aqueducts of clay, one let into another, have been dug up;[17] and -that in the seadike bank, between Fleet and Gedney, a brass sword was -lately found, which seem to be Roman. Thus far in South Holland. At -Boston, about 1716, they dug up an old Roman foundation beyond the -school-house: near it some hewn stones formed a cavity, in which was -an urn with ashes, another little pot with an ear, and an iron key of -an odd figure, in my possession. Some time before then, in Mr. Brown’s -garden at the Green poles, they dug up an urn lined with thin lead full -of red earth and bones. A like one I have seen now in Sir Hans Sloan’s -museum, unquestionably Roman. - -[Sidenote: +Roman+ _roads there_.] - -As the Romans had thus intirely taken in and inhabited the country, no -doubt but according to their custom they drew several roads across it: -but I fear it will be very difficult to give an exact account of them: -such is the nature of the ground, having no solid materials, that they -would be presently wore away without more constant reparations than the -inhabitants practise: yet I have little doubt in supposing one of their -ways was drawn from the northern high country about Bolingbroke by -Stickford, Stickney, Sibsey, and so to Boston river about Redstonegote, -where it passed it by a ferry. I have fancied to myself that several -parcels of it are plainly Roman, by the straitness and by the gravelly -bottom: from thence to Kirkton it is indubitably so, being laid with a -very large bed of gravel: and just a mile from the river is a stone, -now called the Mile-stone, standing in a _quadrivium_; it is a large -round stone like the _frustum_ of a pillar, and very properly a _lapis -milliaris_. From Kirkton I imagine the road went to Donington, where -it met the great and principal road of the country, which is drawn -from Ely to Sleaford in a line not much different from a strait one. -It is certain that there is such a road from Grantchester, which was a -Roman town a mile above Cambridge, to Ely by Stretham: thence another -goes across the depth of the fens by Upwell and Elme towards Wisbech; -and it was near this road that the urn with coins first mentioned -was found: and anno 1730 a Roman urn full of coins was found at the -same place; they were of silver, and very fair. Mr. Beaupre Bell, a -curious gentleman, has many Roman coins found near this Roman road by -Emney; several of Carausius undescribed. Wisbech probably was a Roman -station, and their castle founded upon an older foundation. I suppose -this road passed over Wisbech river above the town towards Guyhurn -chapel, then went to Trokenholt and Clowscross, there entering our -country: from thence that it went in a strait line to Spalding, by -which means most of those square forts we have mentioned in Elho, where -Roman antiquities were discovered, together with most of the southern -hamlets, will be found to be situate near or upon it; such as St. -Edmund’s chapel, the moted place there, Gedneyhill chapel, Highdoles -there, Holbech chapel, Whaplodedrove chapel, Aswic grange, St. -Katherine’s, and Moulton chapel: whether any traces of it can now be -found or no, I cannot say; but the villages thereabouts seem strongly -to favour the conjecture. Supposing it fact, I should not be surprised -if it now be laid perfectly level with the surface of this fenny soil, -seeing I have observed the like appearance of a Roman road when carried -across a meadow in the high countries, and which was composed of a bed -of gravel 100 foot broad, particularly at the Roman city of Alauna by -Bicester, of which I shall in a following page give an account: and -this of ours I suppose only made of the earth of the country thrown -into a bank, because it was impossible to get more durable materials. - -From Spalding, according to my sentiments, this road went towards -Herring bridge (the word retaining some semblance of antiquity) upon -Surflet river, so along the division between the wapentakes of Kirton -and Aveland, near Wrigbolt and Cressy-hall, to the end of Brig-end -causeway at Donington. Here, Holland brig or Brig-end causeway has all -the requisites that can ascertain it to be a Roman work, being strait -and laid with a solid bed of stone: the present indeed is repaired -every year, but we have much reason to think the first projection of it -through this broad morass was no less than Roman. From thence it went -to Sleford; then it seems to have gone across the heath, and to have -fallen in with the great Hermen street at a remarkable place called -Biard’s leap: from thence possibly it was carried, or was designed to -be, by Stretleythorp and Brentbroughton over the Witham to Crocolana -upon the foss-way; then over the Trent into Nottinghamshire, where -it answers in a line with the road to Tuxford and Worksop; and so on -perhaps to the Irish sea, whereby it would become a great parallel -to the Watling street running across the kingdom, as it does, from -south-east to north-west. At Sleaford I am inclinable to think another -road came from Banovallum, or Horn castle, to the east of the river -Bane southward by les Yates, and so crossed the Witham by Chapelhill -and the Cardike somewhere about Kyme: or else crossed the Witham at the -Hermitage, so went by Swinshed north end to Donington: this principal -road we speak of on the other end seems to go from Ely by Soham and -Bury to the German ocean. I am not ashamed to offer my conjecture to -the curious, however slender its foundation may be, if only as a hint -for a future search: but it seems to me very probable, that if it -was not fully executed by the Romans, they intended it, and have in -part manifestly done it. I conceit it crosses the Icening street at -Ikesworth near Bury, then goes to Bretenham, the Combretonium; but with -that country of Suffolk I am at present perfectly unacquainted. Return -we to Holland. - -Besides this great road, I think we need not scruple to assert that -now called Ravensbank to be another, going east and west, through the -heart of the country, from Tid St. Mary’s to Cowbit. I have rode some -miles upon it, where it is now extremely strait and broad. We have been -informed that it is actually in some old writings called Romans Bank: -it is well known the Welsh pronounced Roman _Rhuffain_, and our English -word _ruffian_ is from this fountain. Among the Welsh the letters _m_ -and _v_ are equivalent, to which _f_ is perfectly alike: _maur_ and -_vaur_ is great, and many more: so that _Roman_, _raven_, and _ruffen_, -is the same word; and hence no doubt came _rambling_, _roving_, and -_roming_, as an ignominious appellative of such as thought every -country better than their own; for such to our ancestors seemed the -Romans, that scarce left any corner of the known world impervious to -their all-conquering eagles, carrying arts and arms along with them as -an impetuous torrent, with a most glorious and invincible perseverance. -Further, it is not unlikely that the upper road running east and west -nearer the sea bank, now called Old Spalding gate, is originally Roman: -in some places, as about Fleet, it retains the name of Haregate, which -is equivalent to _via militaris_ when spoken by our Saxon progenitors. -Thus the main road and these two lesser ones seem sufficiently to -answer this purpose as to Elho: it seems to me, that when the Romans -made the many forts all along the eastern shore, to guard against the -Saxons, that this bay was provided for by five, two upon the edges of -the high country, and three upon the rivers; Brancaster in Norfolk, -Burgh on Lincolnshire side; Wisbech,[18] Spalding, and Boston, upon -each river of the fenny tract. - -[Sidenote: _Antediluvian trees._] - -Having given you then all the authentic or conjectural memoirs that -have in general occurred to my reflection upon the most ancient state -of this country, I shall proceed to other particularities, nearer -our own times, through every parish; only first take notice in short -of a wonderful appearance in nature all over this country, and which -is common to all such like upon the globe, as far as my informations -reach: that is, the infinite quantities of subterraneous trees, lying -three or four foot deep, of vast bulk and different species, chiefly -fir and oak, exceeding hard, heavy and black: many times the branches -reach so near day as to break their ploughs, for so I have heard -them complain about Crowland: about Kyme and Billingay they have dug -up some boats or canoos made of hollowed trunks of trees.[19] Many -people will think that this is nothing but the effect of particular -floods, and that this country was once a forest, and not long since -disafforested. This country was once taken into the forest of Kesteven -by the Norman kings, (as you have told me) only with a political view -of extending their power, and disafforested soon after at the instance -of the prior of Spalding: yet it is true of Nassaburg hundred only, -in Northamptonshire. But in my apprehension, as to the matter before -us, such confine their notions to very scanty bounds: an universal -phænomenon requires a more dilated solution, and no less than that of -the Noachian deluge. But upon this I hope for an occasion to be more -copious another time: at present I remember a passage in Pausanias’s -_Attics_ toward the end; speaking of an ebeny statue of Archigetes, “I -have heard, (says he) from a man of Cyprus very skilful in medicinal -herbs, that ebeny bears no leaves, no fruit, nor has it any stock -exposed to the sun, only roots in the earth, which the Ethiopians dig -up. Some of them are particularly skilful in finding them out.” I doubt -not but our author speaks of subterranean trees, and that our people -might use this timber to better use than burning it. - -Most writers, and particularly Mr. Camden, and most strangers, have an -injurious opinion of this country, and apply that to the whole which -is true but of part of it: for in the main the land is admirably good, -hard, and dry; produces excellent corn and grass; feeds innumerable -sheep and oxen of a very large size, and good flesh and wool; bears -wood extremely well, has several large woods in it, some intirely of -oak of considerable size; is full of hedge-rows and quicksets, and -in summer time looks like the garden of Eden: it is level, and most -delightful to travellers, whether on horseback, or in a coach. The air -indeed is moist, as being near the sea, and bordering upon the fens -of the isle of Ely: as to the first, it is the same upon every sea -coast; as to the latter, they are chiefly on the south side, whence -the sun for the most part draws off the vapours from this country. -Indeed this inconvenience accrues from such vicinity, the production -of gnats; to which Angelus Politianus has done so much honour in that -beautiful Greek epigram you showed me; and is well guarded against -by the gentry in the use of netted canopies hung round their beds, -which was an invention of the Ægyptians living in a like country. -Vide Brown’s Garden of Cyrus, p. 30. But all things necessary for the -comfort of life are here in great plenty; and visitants ever go away -with a better opinion of it than they bring. That great soul king -Charles I. himself undertaking the glorious talk, and others under -him, had projected and made such stately works of _sewers_, as would -have rendered this country before now, for trade and beauty, the rival -of its name-sake beyond sea; but the licentious times that succeeded, -gave the unthinking mob (incited by his avowed adversary in all things, -Cromwell) an opportunity to destroy them. I have often considered and -admired the length, breadth, and depth of their canals, the vastness of -their gotes and sluices: indeed I think they made many more than were -useful, and might have laid out the whole in a better manner. I would -not, like the Trojan Prophetess, prognosticate ill to my own country; -but it is not difficult to foresee, that unless some project be taken -in hand, like that which my friend Mr. Kinderley published some time -ago, this vast and rich tract must be abandoned to eels and wild ducks. -A thing of this nature is not to be done but by the senate of the -kingdom taking the matter intirely into their own hands; and if I have -any judgement, whatever new works are made, ought always to be carried -eastward only, for reasons I inculcated before: therefore, instead of -deriving the Welland into the Witham, as was his notion, I would have -it brought to the Nen, and both into the Ouse at Lynn, as it was in its -original and natural state. - -Since the time of the Romans, beyond their first bank have been many -intakes, by successive banks, of the best ground in the world left by -the sea, which contracts its own limits by throwing up banks of sand -out of the estuary: so that, from time to time, the land-owners upon -these frontiers gain several thousands of acres. It is observed, the -land so imbanked is ever higher in level than that left behind it; -and I doubt not but some time the whole bay between Lincolnshire and -Norfolk (being one of our great sovereign’s noblest chambers in his -British dominions over the sea, vide Seld. _Mar. claus._) will become -dry land. By this means the parishes hereabouts increase to a huge -bulk. Holbech from Dovesdale bar, where it joins to Cambridgeshire, -to the limits of the salt marshes, is near twenty miles long. The -cattle bred on this ground are very large; the sheep never have horns. -Smithfield market, as now much supported, was chiefly set up by the -inhabitants here, as I have been told, particularly by Mr. William -Hobson, brother to the famous Cambridge carrier, and Mr. Cust; the -London butchers, before then, commonly going into the country to buy -cattle. - -In every parish formerly were many chapels, it being impracticable -for people to come so far to one church, though now most of them -are demolished, at what time I cannot imagine. No part of England -boasts of so many beautiful churches, having generally lofty spires -of fine squared stone, fetched from Barneck pits, which are a coarse -rag full of petrified shells of all kinds of small fish, and not, as -some think, from Norway. And in no very distant times, not a parish -without great numbers of gentry, lords, knights, and great families, -who made a figure in the world: now scarce any remains of them, but -the site of their houses moted round, their tombs in the churches, -their arms in the painted windows, where they have by chance escaped -the fury of fanatic zeal. Many religious houses formerly there; and -nearly the whole country was got into their hands, as appears by the -old terriers, or town-books. The only houses of note are at present -Dunton hall, in Tyd St. Mary’s parish, lately rebuilt magnificently -by Sigismund Trafford, esq. who has likewise inclosed a considerable -park with a brick wall; and Cressy hall in Surflet parish, the seat -of Henry Heron, esq. in which the lady Margaret, mother to Hen. VII. -was once entertained. The house was handsomely rebuilt by the present -possessor’s father, Sir Henry Heron, knight of the Bath; but the chapel -is old, built, or licensed at least, anno 1309, as an inscription over -the door tells us. In it is an old brass eagle with an inscription -round it.[20] - -Formerly, there is reason to suppose, the gentry had many parks -near their seats. Records in your possession show that the prior of -Spalding, about 1265, compelled Thomas lord Moulton to compound with -him for the venison in his park at Moulton; and in Holbech, about a -mile south of the church, are lands in my tenure, called the Park. That -fish and fowl is here plentiful, no one will wonder; but particularly -the pigeons are noted for large and fine. - -[Sidenote: _Decoys._] - -[Sidenote: TAB. II.] - -In the out-skirts of it are great numbers of decoys, places so called -where they take an incredible quantity of wild ducks,[21] mostly sent -up to London: they are large pits dug in the fens, with five canals -shooting from them, each ending in a point after one angle made, well -planted with willows, fallows, osiers, and such underwood. I have given -a drawing of one. The method of catching fowl in short is this: the -decoy-man coming down to the angle of the pipe, or canal, which is -covered with nets and over-shadowed with trees, peeps through the holes -in the reedy sheds, disposed like the scenes at the play-house, and -joined by the others with holes at the bottom, about as high as a man’s -breast: when he sees a sufficient quantity of wild ducks in the mouth -of the great pond, by whistling softly, the tame ducks wing-stocked, -and brought up for that purpose, swim into the pipe covered with the -nets, to feed upon the corn he throws over the sheds into the water: -this tempts the wild ducks in to partake of the bait: in the mean time -a dog they teach runs round the half-sheds, in and out at the holes in -the bottom, which amuses the fowl so that they apprehend no danger: -when he has brought them far enough into the pipe, stooping he goes -along the scenes, till he is got beyond the ducks, and rising up shows -himself at the half-scenes, which frightens the wild ducks only, the -opposite way into the narrow end of the pipe, which terminates in a -fatal net: and all this is done without any noise or knowledge of the -rest of the wild ducks in the great pond; so that the decoy-man having -dispatched one pipe, goes round to execute the same game at all the -rest, whereby infinite quantities are catched in a year’s time at one -of these places only. - -[Illustration: 2 _The Form of the Decoys in Lincolnshire._ - - _Richardo M. Masfey M.D. - tabulam d.d. Wˢ. Stukeley_] - -[Sidenote: _The_ +Washes+.] - -In running over what few remarkables I have observed in this country, I -shall exclude Marsh-land, because in Norfolk, observing only that their -churches are very beautiful, numerous, large, and stately; that here -are, too, many such of the _tumuli_. You will indulge me the liberty -of giving the etymology of places all along: Cicero likes that method; -_Acad. Quæst._ 1. 8. _verborum explicatio probatur_, i. e. _qua de -causa quæque essent ita nominata quam etymologiam appellabant_: and -though there be often more of pleasant subtlety than reality in such -matters, yet it serves to find out and preserve some old words in a -language that otherwise are in danger of oblivion. I shall begin with -the Washes so much talked of, and so terrible to strangers, though -without much reason; if they take a guide, which is highly adviseable. -The meaning is this: they are the mouths of the river Welland, called -Fossdike Wash, and the river Ouse, called Cross-Keys Wash, running into -the sea, and inclosing this country almost round. _Wase Sax. lutum, -oose._ Twice in a day, six hours each time during the recess of the -tide, they are fordable and easy to be passed over: the intermediate -six hours they are covered with the flux of the ocean. Mr. Merret, of -Boston, son to Dr. Merret, has given a table in the Philos. Trans. -which I improved for the benefit of travellers, and is graven on a -handsome copperplate by my friend, Mr. John Redman: but I would have -passengers not to trust too far to the minutes in the table, because -at some times of the year the tides will anticipate a few minutes, -at others will be retarded, and at all times (not to say any thing -of the difference of clocks and watches) south-east winds make the -tides flow earlier than ordinary, north-west protract them; so that a -wise traveller, in this and all other cases, will take time and tide -by the forelock. Formerly people travelled what they call the Long -Wash, between Lynn and Boston, intirely upon the sands or skirts of -the ocean, but now quite disused and impracticable: there it was, that -king John lost all his carriages among the creeks and quicksands. The -memory of it is retained to this day, by the corner of a bank between -Cross-Keys Wash and Lynn, called now King’s Corner. - -[Sidenote: +Lutton.+] - -[Sidenote: +Sutton.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XI.] - -In Lutton was born the famous Dr. Busby, master of Westminster school, -who has beautified the church, and founded a school there: he owes his -education to the Welbys, an ancient family in this country. I suppose -the town has its name from the general drainage of the country, which -was here in one channel united: they call such Lades, or Lodes, to this -day: this probably is as ancient as any town in Holland. South from -it (and therefore) Sutton church is of an ancient make, especially -the stone work of the steeple: the upper part of the church has been -built of brick in the memory of man. John of Gaunt owned Sutton, and -other vast manors and townships in this country. At Tyd St. Giles, -Nicholas Breakspear was curate, who afterwards became pope Adrian IV. -St. James’s chapel is built of a large sort of brick, such as I have -seen no where else; not Roman. Near it is Ivy-Cross, of stone, in a -_quadrivium_; a curious piece, upon Ravensbank. - -[Sidenote: +Gedney.+] - -Gedney church is very beautiful, built, I believe, chiefly by the -abbots of Croyland, who had a house, no doubt, very stately, on the -north side of the church, and large possessions in the parish: the -upper part of the tower is of the same date with the church, built -upon older work; probably both the work of the abbots, together with -contributions of the rich families that formerly lived here. In the -chancel window a religious in his habit. There is an old monument of -the Welbys, and upon the south door is this inscription: - - *PAX XPISIT HUIC DOMUI - ET OMNIBUS HABITANTIBUS - IN EA HIC REQUIES NOSTRA.* - -The town seems to be derived from _Gaden-ea, aqua ad viam_: _Ea_ is a -watering place properly for cattle, and roads we still call gates in -this country. - -[Sidenote: +Fleet.+] - -The next parish, Fleet, from the Anglo-Saxonic _Fleot_, _æstuarium_, -_fluxus_, still called Fleet-Haven, is remarkable for the steeple -standing at a distance from the church: from this place the family of -the Fletes come, who have made a considerable figure in the country -ever since we have any written memorials. - -[Sidenote: +Holbech.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XXI.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. I. 2d Vol.] - -Holbech (the Salt-Beech) church is very large, and well built, a -strong tower and lofty steeple, dedicate to all saints: formerly there -were organs and fine painted glass, with many coats of arms, but none -left except the Holbeches: Vert, six escallops argent, three, two, -one. There is a fine monument of the Littleburys, an ancient and -flourishing family in these parts: upon his shield is his coat, Argent, -two lions passant gardant gules: there is a brass inscription of a -lady of the Welby family, wife to Sir Richard Leake, knight. *Orate -pro anima Johanne Welby quondam filiae Richardi Leake militis nuper -uxoris Littlebury que obiit xviii die mensis decembris anno domini -mccclxxxviii. cujus anime propitietur deus Amen.* Here was born -Henry Rands, alias de Holbech, bishop of Lincoln, who was one of the -compilers of the Liturgy: here formerly flourished the ancient families -of Fleet, Dacres, Harrington, Barrington, Welby, Multon. - -In the year 1696, in digging at Mr. Adlard Stukeley’s gardens, they -found an old brass seal, which I gave to Sir Hans Sloan; a man in -long robes, with two escutcheons, on one three cocks, on the other -a portcullis; the legend, + +SOVRABLA DEUS OLER+. In the year 1698, -an iron spur with a very long shank was found: in my possession. A -remarkable rarity in nature I met withal, an admirable ossification in -the _omentum_ of a sheep, white and solid as ivory. Mr. Cheselden has -printed a cut of it in the second edition of his Anatomy. I gave it to -Dr. Mead. - -From the ancient churchwardens’ accounts, before the time of the -Reformation, from anno 1453, many curious remarks may be made, in -relation to prices of things, wages, superstitious customs, old -families, and the like: a specimen whereof I have here annexed. - - -_ss._ _A Boake of the Stuffe in the Cheyrche of_ Holbeche _sowld by - Chyrchewardyns of the same according to the injunctyons of the - Kynges Magyste._ - - _s._ _d._ - An. dni. M. ccccc. xlviiᵒ. First to Antony - Heydon the trynite with the tabernacle ii. iiii. - - It. to Wm. Calow thelder the tabernacle of - Nicholas and Jamys vi. viii. - -[Illustration: 21 Ecclesiam de HOLBECH _in Agro_ Linc. Lucio _Henrico_ - _Hibbins Arm. d.d. W. Stukeley_ 1722 - - _Stukeley delin._ _I. Harris sculp_] - -[Illustration: _1·2ᵈ._ - - Littlebury in Holbech Church] - - _s._ _d._ - It. to Wm. Davy on tabernacle of our lady of pytye iiii. - It. to Wm. Calow the younger on other tabernacle of our - lady iii. vi. - It. to Antony Heydon the ymage of the Antony xx. - It. to Humphry Hornesey on sygne vi. - It. to Antony Heydon on other synge and a lytyl tabernacle xx. - It. to Wm. Calow the younger the tabernacle of Thomas - Bekete iiii. viii. - It. to Wm. Davy the sygne whereon the plowghe did stond xvi. - It. to John Thorpe a chyst in St. Jamys chapell ii. - It. to Lincone howld woode iiii. - It. to Nicholas Foster the banke that the George stoode on iiii. - It. to Antony Heydon ij alters ii. viii. - It. to Wm. Stowe ij lytyll tabernacles viii. - It. to Henry Elman on lytyll tabernacle ii. - It. to John Thorpe for Harod’s coate xviii. - It. to Wm. Calow the younger all thapostyls coats and other - raggs viii. iiii. - It. to Henry Elman for vii baner clothes ix. iiii. - It. to Antony Heydon on blewe clothe ix. - It. to Smithes on pece of howlde saye iii. - It. to Richerd Richerson the crosse and other gydys ii. iii. - It. to Mr. Byllysby ij tablys iiii. iiii. - It. to Antony Heydon for the coats of the iij kyngs of - Coloyne v. iiii. - It. to Humphry Hornesey the canypye that was born over the - sacrament xx. - It. to Wm. Calow thelder and John Thorpe iiij owlde pantyd - clothes vi. viii. - It. to Antony Heydon on wood candlestyke iiii. - It. to Wm. Calow the younger on lytyll bell vi. - It. to Antony Heydon on other lytyll bell vi. - It. to Wm. Davy for the tabernacles that stode at the end - of the hy alter viii. - _l._ _s._ _d._ - _Sm._ iiii. ii. iiii. - - - _A. D._ m. ccccc xlvii. - - It. to Wm. Calow the younger on rod of iyron iiii. - It. to Robt. Gyffon for ij barrs of iyron v. - It. to Antony Heydon xx score and x hund. of latyn at ii_s._ - and xi _d._ the score lxix. xi. ob. - It. to Richerd Richerson ij lytyll tabernacles viii. - It. of John Suger for the chyrche lond ii. viii. - It. of the burial of Mr. Byllysby iii. iiii. - It. of John Mays wyffe for the Dracon iii. - It. of Alys Boyds debt to xps corpys gilde ii. - It. for on bell _l._ xviii. ii. - It. for seyten vestments and trashe in the chest in trinete - quere sold to Davy xxxiii. iiii. - It. of Wm. Burnit for pilows xvi. - It. of Wm. Calow the younger for eyrne xx. - - _l._ _s._ _d._ - _Sm. totalis_ xxviii. iiii. iiii. ob. - -More superstitious ornaments of the church were sold in queen -Elizabeth’s time, 1560. - - From this book I extracted the following catalogue of the Ministers - of the parish. - - John Clerk chaplain. Anno 1450. - John Risceby vicar. 1460. - Thomas George chaplain then. - Robert Jelow. 1469. - William Greyborn vicarius perpetuus. 1474. - Sir John Welby priest. - Sir John Lyard perpetual vicar. obiit 1496. - Baxter. 1508. - Ds. Neel capellanus. - Richard Wytte. 1520. - Sir John Scapull. ob. 1524. - Sir Robert Manning. 1550. - Sir Thomas West. 1561. - Thomas Gybson precher. - Othoneel Bradbury. 1600. - Matthew Clarke vicar of Holbech. 1610. - Henry Williamson. 1630. - John Grante. 1633. - John Bellenden. 1640. - John Pymlowe. 1647. - John Pymlowe. 1687. - George Arnett. 1720.[22] - -[Sidenote: TAB II. 2d Vol.] - -In 1529, a new organ cost 3l. 6s. 8d. The organ in the church was -taken down 1568. Anno 1453, Wm. Enot, of Lynn, epi. and Henry Nele of -Holbech, gave the saints bell. Another guild of St. Thomas; another -of our Lady. The vestry on the south side of the choir was taken -down 1567. There was formerly a chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary -at Holbech hurn, near the ancient seat of the Littleburys; standing -1515: another chapel thereabouts, dedicated to St. Nicholas: another -in Wignal’s gate, near Holbech hall, by the river side, dedicated to -St. Peter. About 1719, I saw many corpses dug up in the yard at making -a ditch there. Another in the fen ends. An ancient guild of Corpus -Christi stood near Barney pit, where is now a house once belonging to -Moses Stukeley, who owned the estate thereof. An hospital founded by -John de Kirkton, in his own messuage, by licence of king Ed. III dat. -Nov. 16, for a warden, chaplain, and fifteen poor people: he endowed it -with several lands in Holbech, which he held of the abbot of Croyland, -who by licence permitted the same to be annexed to this hospital of All -Saints in Holbech, for which he paid 20l. This stood, as I imagine, -where now is the Chequer inn, over against the church. I remember the -old stone-work arched doors and windows with mullions, pulled down when -rebuilt by my father, and many of the carved stones were laid in the -foundation of the houses he built by the river side at the bridge. See -Dugdale’s _Monasticon_. A free-school was founded here, about 1669, by -George Farmer, esq. who endowed it with lands, which with others since -given are now worth about 50l. per annum; which I am bound in gratitude -not to forget. A. D. 1699, there were belonging to the fifty-four -bounds of this parish, paying rates, acres 6234; in the marsh, acres -6532; and since added for the last intake, acres 170. The old cross in -the market-place was pulled down 1683. 1253, Thomas de Multon, lord -Egremont, obtained a market and fair to Holbech, 31 Oct. 37 Hen. III. -at Windsor, and probably built that cross. - -[Illustration: _2·2ᵈ._ - - _Holbech Cross Lincolnshire_ - - _Ob amorem erga Solum Natale, Temporum Ignorantia direptam restituit - Wˢ. Stukeley 1722_] - -[Sidenote: +Whaplode.+] - -Quaplode, called anciently Capellade, i. e. _Capella ad Ladam s. -fluvium_, has a very ancient church, founded by the abbots of Croyland: -the tower stands on the south side. In the upper and south windows -are these coats of arms. Barry of six azure and argent; Azure, a bend -gules, charged with three roses argent; Argent, two lions passant -gardant gules, _Littlebury_. In the east window of the north chapel, -_Littlebury_, and Or, a fesse between two chevronels gules; and Sable, -a fret argent, _Harrington_: Azure, on a bend gules, three roses -argent, as before. I have a copy of the foundation of this church. Here -is a large monument of the Irbys. - - - GENEALOGY of MOULTON. - -Thomas de Multon, lord Egremont, and lord of Holbech, obtained a market -for Fleet, 9 Jo. | - +--------------------------------------------------+ -Robert Romley, = daughter of Wm. Meschines, lord of Coupland. | - | | - +---+ | - | | -Wm. Duncanson = Alice, heiress. Hugh de Morvile, lord of Burgh upon Sands, | - | chief forester of Cumberland. | - +--+ | | - | +-----------------+ | - | | +-------------------------------+ - | | | - 1 2 -Richard de Lucy} = Ada, coheiress = Thomas de Multon obtained a market and - lord Egremont} | | fair for Holbech, 37 Hen. III. - +-----------+ +--------------+--------------------+ - | | | -Amabilis, heiress = Lambert de Multon, 1270. Thomas de Multon, lord of - | | Burgh, in Cumberland. - +-------------+ +------+ - | | -Thomas de Multon, 31 Ed. I. 1303. Thomas de Multon} { Maud de Vaulx, - | lord of Burgh, } = { heiress of Gillesland, - | 20 Ed. I. } | { daughter of Hubert - | | de Vaulx. -Thomas de Multon, lord Egremont. | - | | -Thomas de Multon, lord } { daughter of Rich. de | - Egremont, ob. 15 Ed. II.} = { Burgh, earl of Ulton. | - | | - +----------------+ +-----------------+ - | | -John de Multon, lord Egremont, Thomas de Multon, lord of } - ob. s. p. 9 Ed. III. Burgh, Gillesland and Holbech, } = Isabel. - 21 Ed. I. and 2 Ed. II. } | - _Inquisit. post mortem._ | - +--------------------------------+ -Ranulf de Dacre, lord of } | - Drumbough castle } = Margaret, heiress. Maud, says Camden. - | - +----------------------+ - | -Thomas Dacre, esq. lord } - of Holbech, 1450. } = Philippa, ob. 1453. - | - Humphry Dacre, esq. - | - Sir Ralf de Dacre, lord of Holbech, 1470. - - -[Sidenote: +Moulton.+] - -Moulton, or Multon, probably has its name from a mill, which anciently, -perhaps, were not so common as now. There is a good church, and very -fine spire; as also a good free-school of near 100l. per ann. value in -lands. Moulton hall, whose last ruins I have seen, was the seat of -Thomas de Multon, lord Egremont, a great man in these parts. His hand -is among the barons at _Magna Charta_. Between these two parishes, -in a green lane northwards, stands a little stone called Elho stone, -whence the name of this hundred is derived: it is about the middle -thereof, and was formerly the main road across the country, now called -Old Spalding Gate. Old men tell us, here was kept in ancient times an -annual court; I suppose a convention, _sub dio_, of the adjacent parts, -to treat of their general affairs. A wood hard by is called Elhostone -wood. - -[Sidenote: +Weston.+] - -Weston, because west from the last town. Here is the stately chapel of -Wykeham, the villa of the rich priors of Spalding, built by Clement de -Hatfield, prior, who died anno 1318. In 1051, Spalding priory made by -Thorold, sheriff of Lincoln, out of his own manor-house. Many places -near the old sea-bank are called _hurns_, signifying an angle. Here -is a little leam called the Wik: Mr. Camden, in _Bucks_, says it -signifies the winding of a river, as Cowhurn hard by. - -[Sidenote: +Spalding.+] - -Spalding has been famous for its ancient and rich priory founded before -the Conquest, and for the residence of Ivo Tailbois, the lord of this -country, by gift of William the Conqueror, the site of whose castle is -on the north-east part of the town. The town-hall was built by William -Hobson. But of this place we expect from you, sir, a more particular -account. - -[Sidenote: +Pynchbek.+] - -In Pynchbek church-windows are the arms of Ogle, of Fleet; Argent, -on two bars sable, six escallops of the first, empaled with _De la -Launde_. Pyncebeck seems to come from the Cimbrian _pinken_, _lucere_, -from the clearness of its water. - -[Sidenote: +Donington.+] - -Many towns, on both sides Deeping Fen, end in _ington_, _ingham_, as -lying upon the Mead. Donington is very hilly, full of elevations or -dunes. Thomas Cowley, esq. of Donington, who died about 1718, left -all his estate, which was considerable, to the poor of every parish -where it lay, whereof 400l. per ann. to Donington, where he built a -school-house, and endowed it. - -[Sidenote: +Algarkirk.+] - -Algarkirk has a fine church, in which are some water-bougets carved -on the oak seats in escutcheons. They say here lived the famous count -Algar,[23] commander of the Holland men in many battles against the -Danes, of whom they show an image in stone in the church-yard. I found -there this inscription, - - _Sis testis Xpe, quod non jacet hic lapis iste - Quisquis es si transeas sta perlege plora - Corpus ut ornetur sit lapis ut memoretur. - Sum quod eris fueramque quod es pro me precor ora._ - -[Sidenote: +Wiberton.+] - -Wiberton, they say, has its name from Guibertus, a great man here -formerly. There is a place called Multon hall, which belonged to the -aforementioned Thomas de Multon. Here is likewise Titton hall: the -chapel is now converted into a stable. - -[Sidenote: +Frampton.+] - -Hard by is Frampton, probably from the Anglo-Saxonic _Faran_, -_trajicere_: for here they passed over the river in a ferry, before -Boston bridge was built; as at Framton, in Gloucestershire, upon the -Severn, and Framilode passage. Farnton by Newark, where now is the -ferry over the Trent. Gosberton, from _Gosbèrt_, or _Gosbright_, I -suppose lord of the town before the Conquest. Fossdike seems to be -_Fordsdike_, where we pass over the Washes. - -[Sidenote: +Skirbeck.+] - -Skirebec doubtless has its name from the Saxon, _scire_, division, -because here the river parts the hundreds. Here was an hospital of -knights of St. John of Jerusalem, now intirely demolished, though the -church was standing within memory of man. There was another religious -house near the church: the remains of it is now the parsonage-house. -Such names of towns as Fishtoft, Butterwick, Swineshead, Cowbyte, and -the like, seem easy enough. - -[Sidenote: +Sibsey.+] - -[Sidenote: +Leverton.+] - -Sibsey church has very handsome pillars and circular arches, somewhat -after the Roman mode. The top of the steeple is added upon the old -work; perhaps from its watery situation; _sipan_, to steep. Leverton, -_Leofrici oppidum_: he was a potent man thereabouts at the time of the -Normans coming, and gave to the town much common: his deed of gift -is now in possession of the reverend and worthy vicar, Mr. William -Falkner, which I have seen. - -[Sidenote: +Frieston.+] - -Frieston, a _frith_, _æstuarium_; so Ald Friston in Sussex, near -Cuckmere haven. Here was an opulent monastery founded by Guy de Croun, -whose genealogy I shall not think much to recite, because it relates -to the antiquities of this country, and in some measure shows the -reason of what my friend Mr. Becket, surgeon, much wondered at when -he searched the old repository of wills at the Prerogative Office -in London, where he observed more of this country than any other in -England. - - The GENEALOGY - -Of the +Craons+, _Credon_, _Crodon_, _Croun_, the most illustrious - family of Anjou, and one of the most illustrious in France, which - came into England with William the Conqueror. The barony of Craon - is the first and most considerable in Anjou: it is a small city in - that province upon the river Oudon near Bretagne, encompassed with - walls.[24] - - A. D. 940. - -Andrew de Craon, lord of Craon, of } = { Agnes, daughter of Fulk, the good - Bruslon, and of Loches. } | { count of Anjou, and lord of Loches. - | - +-----------------------+---------------------+ - | | -Lisois the elder, lord of Craon: he Artus de Craon, chambrier de - lived in the time of Nerra, earl l’abbay de St. Aubin d’Angers. - of Anjou. - | - +-------------+ - | - Suhard de Craon the elder, lord of Craon. - | - +---------+--------------+----------------------------+ - | | | -Lisois de Craon the Guerin de Craon, lord of Suhard de Craon the younger. -younger, author of the Craon. He doing homage for -elder or English house his baronage to Conan II. duke of Britany, instead of -of Craon: he was lord Geffrey Martel, earl of Anjou, who claimed that service, -of Mordelles. V. it was confiscated; whereupon he waged war, but was -Histoire de Sablé, p. wounded therein, and died. -109, 110. | - | +--------+ - | | - | Robté de Craon, heiress = Robert de Vitré, lord of Vitré. - +----------------+ | - | | +----------------+ - | | | Robert de Nevers, sirnamed the = Avis de Sablé. -Hildeberg married | | Burgundian, or Allobrog. | - to Herbert | | | - Marquis of | Inogen de Vitré. = Reynold the Burgundian, lord - | | | of Craon. - | | | - | | Authors of the second house of Craon, of special note in - | | France. He founded the abbey of Roé, in the neighbourhood - | of Craon, 1096. His Cri d’Arms was +Cleriau+. - +-------------+ | - | | | -Geffry, first prior | Guy de Croun, baron Croun of Frieston, near Boston, - to the abbey of St. | Lincolnshire, given him by William the Conqueror, with whom - Evron in Normandy, | he came into England. He had another seat at Burton Crown, - after abbot of | near (Sleaford) so called from him, as now Pedwardyn from - Croyland, ob. 1124. | his descendants: he had much land in Ashby, Ravendale, Wade, - +----------------+ and Bliton, com. Linc. 20 W. I. as appears in Domesday. He - | possessed no less than sixty lordships. He gave to the -Robert, monk of priory of Spalding, refounded about this time by his - St. Evron, was countryman, Ivo Talbois, one carucat of land in that town, - afterwards abbot anno 1081. Histoir. de Sablé, p, 138. thus says the charter - of Thorney. of donation. Guy de Croun, in obedience to the divine - inspiration, out of his ability, gave a certain parcel of - his estate to GOD and St. Nicholas, for the soul of William - the king, and Maud the queen, and for the soul of William - the First, that the Lord would grant him success in his - reign, and bring him to a good end; one carucat of land in - Spaldingue, with the appurtenances; his wife, all his sons - and daughters, and brothers, consenting thereto, for the - good of his soul.----He likewise gave ten carucats of land - in Pynchbeck to the abbey of Croyland, and two carucats in - Spalding to the same. - | - +---------------------------------------+-----+------------+ - | | | | -Godfrey de Croun, first prior | Emme. Roger de Croun. - of Frieston. | | - +--------------------------------------+ William de Crown. - | -Alan de Croun = Muriel. - Baron Croun. - He was in highest favour with king Hen. I. to whom he was great steward of the -houshold. Petrus Blesensis says he was dear to the king above all other barons of the -court, and whose counsel he valued most. He so far excelled in industry, honesty, -wisdom, and sanctity, that he was called the King’s God, by the soldiery. In his -country at Frieston, he was called _Alan Open-doors_, because he kept so great a -house, says Leland in his Itinerary, Vol. VII. p. 126. He owned Southwarnburn, com. -Southampt. He founded the priory of Frieston for Benedictin monks, subject to the -abbot of Croyland, anno 1142: he was buried at Croyland abbey, on the south side of -the high altar. See the _Monasticon_, and History of Ingulfus and Continuation, and -Dugdale’s Baronage. | - +--------------------------------------+-------------+ - | | -1150. | Matilde. - Maurice de Craon, baron Croun. He was } { -made keeper of the castle of Ancennis by } { Clarice, sister to Henry III. vid. -Hen. II. and governor of the provinces } { liberat. 35 Hen. III. m. 3. and Claus. -of Anjou and Main: he was one of the } = { 45 Hen. III. m. 13. she was after -plenipotentiaries on the part of the } | { married again to the duke of Burgundy, -king, in the treaties between him and } | { 33 Hen. III. 39 Hen. III. p. 2. m. 2. -Philip the August, king of France. } | { - +---------------------------+-+ - | | - Maurice de Croun, nepos regis & nepos | Guy de la Val, qui habuit in liberio -Almerici de Croun, cui manerium de Burn | maritagio quasdam terras in Walttun com. -restituitur post mortem Almerici de | Surr. sed forisfecit illas adherendo -Croun.--Pat. 55. Hen. III. p. 1. m. 28. | baronibus contra Ric. I. v. Lib. Feod. - | Milit. f. 16. b. - +-----------------------------+---------------+ - | | | - Ralf de Croun. | Peter de Croun habet Hamma, Waletun & - | Ewell, cum. Surr. Pat. 17 Hen. I. m. 24. - +--------------------------------+ -1180. | - Guy de Crown, } = Isabel. -baron Crown } - He accompanied Richard I. in his voyage to the Holy Land, 1192; was present at -the treaty between him and Tancred, king of Sicily, recited by Hoveden, annal. He -confirmed, to the nuns of Haverholm, pasture for ninescore sheep in Bloxam fields, -even to the bounds between them and the abbot of Grelle.--V. lib. R. Dodsworth, -vocat. petigrees, tom. i. f. 94. b. - | - | Walter to Langtot = Matildis. - | | - | +----+ - | | - | Ranulf de Langtot = - | | - | Robert de Vallibus came into } { | -There were lands in | England with William the } = { Agnes. -Sutton held of the | Conqueror. } { | -honour of Croun,--Inquis. | +----------------------------+ -Wap. Elhou. 1 Ed. III. | | -feod. milit. 42. | William de Vaux = -offic. armor, p. 32. | | - | +--------+ - | | - | Robert de Vaux = - +---+ | -1. William Longchamp = } | +--------------+ -2. Henry de Mara. = } = Petronilla. | ³ -Gules, a fesse between three } | = { Oliver de Vaux. Chequy -water-budgets ermine. } | | { argent and gules. - +-------------------+ | - | +--------------------------+ -Sir Henry de Longchamp: he died March } | -1274, and was buried at Swynshed } { Sibilla, daughter of John de Vaux = -abbey; his heart at Burton Pedwardin, } { Sir Thomas Heringande, owned the manor -as called from his son in-law, before } = { Sir Thomas Heringande, of Frieston, -the altar in the chapel of the Virgin } | { com. Suff. Az. and certain lands -Mary. Or, three crescents gules, } | { six herrings argent. in Boston by gift -charged each with a mullet argent. } | { of his mother, - | _in feodo talliata, -There is a great Fe gatery’d about Bostone parts | ob._ 1288. | -by the name of _Petronille de la Corone_ dowghter | | -by _Lykelehode de la Corone_ foundar of Frieston | | -priorye, and buried at Croyland. This fe is | | -now paid to the lord Rosse, but the Richmount | | -fe is greater there. There is also anoder fee +---------------------------+ | -cauld _Pepardyne_; and that the lord Linsey had: and the owners of these fees | | -be lords of the town of Boston.--Leland’s Itin. Vol. VIII. p. 124.--Petronil | | -had lands in Holbech and Quaplode.--Inquis. Elho, 1 Ed. III. feod. milit. 42. | | -offic. arm. p. 32. and in Weston, p. 33, 20, 21, &c. _Juratores dicunt quod | | -Petronilla de vallibus tenet de domino rege in capite manerium de Warnburn | | -com. Southampton & in com. Lincoln 22. feod. mil. & dimid. per Baronium & | | -quod Henricus de Longo Campo est ejus propinquior heres & ætat. 50. & | | -amplius._--Escaet. 46 Hen. III. N. 5. | | - | | - +----------------------------------------------------+ | - | | -Roger Penwardyn. } { Alice: she died 15 May, 1330, was buried in the north | - } = { Pedwardin, side of the chapel of the Virgin Mary, | -Gules, two lions } | { in Burton where I saw her tomb-stone, with this | -regardant argent. } | { inscription, 1714. | - | | - +-----------------+ | - |*DAME ALIS. DE. PETTEWARDIN. GYT. ITY.* | - | *DEU. DE. SA. ALME GYT. MERCI.* | - | +------------------------------------------------------------------+ - | | | - | Petronil = Sir William de Nereford. | - | | +----------------+ - | | William de Roos, lord of Hamlake, } | - | +---+ Gules, three water-budgets argent. } = Maud, heiress. - | | | - |Matilda, ob. S. P. +-----------------------------+ - | | { Margery, one of the coheiresses of Giles de - | William de Ros. = { Badlismere, lord of Chillham. Their descendants - | { were barons Ros; and the Manors’s, - | { earls of Rutland, married an heiress. - +------------------------------+ - | -Thangharat, sister to } ¹ { Wallter Pedwardin, alias Lloyd, } ² { Maud, daughter -Thelwell Llewellin, } = { lived in the castle of Brampton, } = { of Sir John -prince of Wales. } { in Wigmorland, in the marches of } | { Lyngain. - { Wales, called Waugher Thleud by } | - { reason of his white hairs. } | - +----------------------------------------------------------+ - | =anno 1340.= -Roger Pedwardin II. he built entirely new the church of } -Burton Pedwardin and St. Mary’s chapel there, being on the } = { Alice, daughter of -north side; but the south aile, together with the chapel of } | { Henry Longchamp. -St. Nicholas, was rebuilt at the same time by the } | -parishioners. } | - +--------------------------------------------------+ - | -Sir Roger Pedwardin: he died 10 Feb. } { Agnes, daughter of Philip Darcy, sister -1368, buried at Burton: he obtained a } { and coheiress of Norman D’arcy, lord -bull for 530 days pardon to all } = { Darcy of Nocton, Azure, semée de cross -benefactors towards the church and } | { croslets or, three cinquefoils ar. -chapels there. } | { - +-------------+ - | | -John de Markham, } { daughter | Brian de Pedwarin, esc. 11 E. -J. C. Az. on a chief } = { of Nicholas | III. N. 4. Lincoln. -ar. a demi-lion. } | { Bottomsell. | - | +----+ - | | | - +--------------+ | Alice = John de Warbelton. - | | -Robert de Markham } = { daughter | - } | { of Caunton. +-------+ - | | - | Sir Walter } { Isabel, daughter - | Pedwardin, ob. } { and coheiress of - | 11 June, 1405. } = { Sir Rob. Hilton, - ² | ¹ } | { and Margaret, -Milicent } { Sir John } { Eliz. daughter } | { daughter and -daughter of } = { Markham, justic. } = { and coheiress } | { coheir of Marmaduke -Beckerin. } | { de Banco. } { of Hugh } | { Tweng, knt. - | de Cressy. | - | +--+------------+ - | | | -Sir John Markham, of Nottingham: } | Walter de Pedwardin. -he was lord chief justice, } | -10 Hen. IV. buried in Sidbrook } +------+ -church, near Grantham. That } = { Margaret, coheiress | | -manor continued in his family } | { of Simon Leek. | Catharine = David, son -till Sir George Markham lately } | | of Sir Daniel Fletwick. -sold it to Sir John Thorold. } | | - | +----------------+ - | | 1430. - | Sir Robert Pedwarin, } { Elizabeth, daughter - | ob. 26. April, 1432. } = { to Sir Edmund - | _fines prim. mich._ } | { Pierpoint, knight. - | 8 Hen. IV. Linc. } | { - | | - | +---------------+ - | | - +--------+ ² = Walter Pedwardin, } { Katharine daughter - ¹ } | esq. ob. 4. Aug. } ² { of Ingilby -Matthew Leak. } | 1429, 9 Hen. VI. } = { of Ripley, near - ² } | Ecc. N. 7. } = { Knaresburgh. -John de Fleet of } = Katharine. | -Framton, esq. a } | | -lawyer. Ar. two +------------+ +----------------+------+ -bars sable, each | | | | | -charged with | Beatrice = Roger Pedwardin. | Thomas Pedwardin. -three scallops | Leak. | | -of the first. | | +------+ - | Christopher Pedwardin, of Brompton, | | - | Salop, son and heir, released all | Katharine. - | his right to the manor of Burton | - | Pedwardin, Claus. 7. Ed. IV. m. 8 Linc. | - | +------+ - | | | - | | Joanna. - +------------+ +----------------+ - | | | - Alexander Leak = Margaret | - | - | - John Quickerell, of Boston = Ann. - - -The site of Roushall, where the barons Ros lived, is in the parish of -Fishtoft. - -[Sidenote: +Vainona.+] - -In Wainfleet church, the bishop of Winchester, whose name was Patten, -founder of Magdalen college, Oxford, erected a marble monument for -his father, where are his coats of arms in the windows. In the town -he built a handsome chapel of brick, and endowed it with a pretty -good revenue, to pray for his and his ancestors souls. Now it is -made a free-school house. This place still retains its ancient name; -for I am certain it is the Vainona mentioned by the famous author of -_Ravenna_, who has happily preserved so many of our old British cities. -The learned Mr. Baxter, in his Glossary of British Antiquities, with -a sagacity peculiar to himself, has corrected this from Navione. The -sea has added much ground to this place since the Roman times, and -then their city stood higher up by the churches, which is a mile off -the present town. The haven was near St. Thomas church, now called -North-holm: it is still very deep thereabouts, and appears to have been -broad, being a pretty good river, whilst the waters of the east fen -ran through it, and kept it open: it was thirty foot wide a mile above -the churches, as appears by the old cloughs there; for they had wisely -contrived by that means to keep out the salt water and heighten the -fresh, which no doubt would have preserved the haven to this day, had -they not foolishly suffered the east-fen water to be carried to Boston. -It is apparent the natural course of water here (as we before observed -of other parts of the level) is eastward: the east fen is lower than -the west fen. At Nordike bridge anciently were four arches: the edge of -the piers which cut the water was westward; which shows that the water -originally run eastward, and the whole level was drained that way, -though now most currents run to Boston. The inhabitants have a constant -tradition, that this was a great town; but when the haven was filled -up, Boston became the sea-port: likewise they say there is a road -across the east fen, called Salter’s road, which probably was the Roman -road; and there are people now alive who knew such as had remembered -it. Doubtless this was a place where the Romans made their salt of the -sea water, to supply all this province; and it is not improbable that -this road led to Banovallum, Lindum, &c. Many salt hills are visible -from Wainfleet to Friskney. The king is still lord of the soil of this -old Roman city. - -[Sidenote: +Burgh+, _a_ Ro. _fort_.] - -Three miles north, and as much from Skegness and the sea, is Burgh, a -market-town, whose name drew my attention. I found it to be a Roman -_castrum_ to guard the sea-coasts, probably against the Saxon rovers: -it is a piece of very high ground, partly natural, partly raised by -Roman labour, overlooking the wide extended marshes, perhaps in those -times covered with salt water, at least in spring tides. There are two -artificial _tumuli_, one very high, called Cock-hill. In St. Mary’s -church-yard, now demolished, Roman coins have been found. I saw a very -fair and large Antoninus Pius in brass, cos. +iiii+. in possession of -Tho. Linny. In the yards and gardens about the town they frequently -dig up bodies. St. Peter’s church is large and good. There appear no -Roman ways, _vallum_, or ditch, to inclose the town, which is a sort of -knoll, or rising ground. - -I was told of a Roman aqueduct of earth, found at Spilsby. In Halton -church hard by is this inscription on a flat stone. + *SIRE WATER BER -GIST ICY DE SA ALME DEUS EIT MERCI*. Another, a cross-legged knight: -on his shield a lion rampant. At Hagnaby, a religious house founded -by Agnes de Orreby. Well, by Ralf de Hauvile. Near Well, on a chalky -heath, are three curious Celtic barrows contiguous and joined one -into another, composed of chalk: the chalk in Lincolnshire by Alford -answers to that in Norfolk. Tateshall collegiate church founded by Ralf -Cromwell. Many _tumuli_ hereabouts, as at Hagnaby and other places, -but none so remarkable a curiosity as those by the broad road upon -the descent of the high country, overlooking the vast level towards -Boston. At Revesby, by the seat of Joseph Banks, esq; there is an oval -inclosed with a broad ditch: the longest diameter, which is somewhat -above 300 foot, is precisely east and west; the other a little above -100: the entrance to it is on the middle of the south side: within, -at each end of the length, is a large _tumulus_ 100 foot in diameter: -they are equal in shape and similar positure, a large vacuum of 100 -foot lying between: it is very regularly formed: the length of the oval -ditch that incloses the two _tumuli_ is equal to thrice the breadth: -the _tumuli_ are large and high: that rising on the north side, without -the ditch, is of an odd figure, but similar. It seems to have been a -place of sepulture; perhaps two British kings were there buried; and -the height on the north side was the place whereon they sacrificed -horses, or the like, to the _manes_ of the deceased. Or is it a place -of religious worship among the old Britons? and the two hills may -possibly be the temples of the Sun and Moon. I am inclined to think it -ancient, because of the measure: the breadth is equal to 100 Celtic -feet, as I call them; the length to 300. - -[Sidenote: +Banovallum.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. LXXXIX.] - -Horncastle was undoubtedly the Banovallum in _Ravennas_: the latter -part of the word is Latin, so that it signifies the fortification -upon the river Bane. It is of a low situation, placed in the angle of -the two brooks meeting here, the Bane and Waring; whence the modern -name Horncastle, which signifies an angle, all this country over, as -you know in your neighbouring Cow-hurn, Holbech-hurn, Guy-hurn, &c. I -will not venture to conceit it came from the ancient way of painting -rivers horned, from their windings and turnings; of which we may find -a hint in Burton’s Comment. on Antoninus’s Itinerary, pag. 56. and -they that please may consult Bochart’s _Phaleg_, II. 22. where are -many proofs of the ancients expressing an angle by the term _horn_. -Skinner in his _Etymologicon_ rightly affirms it comes from the Saxon -word _hyrn_; and Ælfricus expounds it by the word _cornu_. It is -probable the Romans were induced to make a station here at first from -its convenient situation, easily rendered defensible by a _vallum_ -drawn across the aperture from one river to the other; and thence came -the Roman name. Afterwards they built the indissoluble stone wall, -whole _vestigia_ are manifest the whole compass round, and in some -places pretty high, as three or four yards, and four yards thick. -It serves for sides of gardens, cellars, out-houses, &c. as chance -offers, inclosing the market-place, church, and good part of the town. -It is a perfect parallelogram, composed of two squares: at the angles -have been square towers, as they report: the gates were in the middle -of three sides, and I suppose a postern into the meadows called the -Holmes at the union of the two rivulets. I suspect originally the river -Bane ran nearer to the wall in that part, and behind the manor-house: -the garden there has been heightened, and the river pushed farther -off, and turned with a larger bow to favour the people who live in -Far-street, and especially the tanners, who are very numerous there: -both rivers probably were wider and deeper than now, as the Celtic name -of _Bane altus_ intimates, which at present is conformable to reality -lower down. Some do not scruple to affirm it was a sea-port, that is, -navigable. The Waring arises but a mile or two off. The field across it -south of the town is called the Thowng and Cagthorp, and probably was -its _pomæria_, from the Saxon word _pang_, _campus_, _ager_. Here they -find a great number of Roman coins. I saw a brass coin of Vespasian; -reverse, an eagle, +CONSECRATIO+; dug up from under the walls of -Banovallum: Mr. Hograve of the place has it now: but Horncastle was -not built in the time of Vespasian. I saw, in possession of Mr. Terry -of Lincoln, a silver Vespasian found here; reverse, a sitting Genius -with a sympulum in her hand, and +DN. MA+. In 1734, a girl digging -sand by the road side going from Les Yates to Horncastle, and near -Horncastle, dug up an earthen urn full of Roman coins, rings, &c. Mr. -Terry collector gave me some of them. Near the walls upon digging -cellars they sometimes find bodies buried. A rivulet called Temsford -runs into the Bane. The school lands were given by private persons, -and it was incorporated by queen Elizabeth: their seal is a castle and -hunting-horn: and a horn is the brand for the town cattle upon the -common. It is dubious whether Bowbridge has its name from the arch of -the bridge, or from its being the entrance into the town from Lindum -through the gate called formerly a Bow. This way is the maypole-hill, -where probably stood an Hermes in Roman times. The boys annually keep -up the festival of the _Floralia_ on May day, making a procession to -this hill with _May gads_ (as they call them) in their hands: this is -a white willow wand, the bark peeled off, tied round with cowslips, a -_thyrsus_ of the Bacchanals: at night they have a bonfire and other -merriment; which is really a sacrifice, or religious festival. The -king formerly had this whole town in his possession, until it was -bestowed on the bishop of Carlisle. Near the conflux of the two brooks -was lately a pleasant garden, and a place called Julian’s Bower, much -talked of. - -[Illustration: 89 +Banovallum.+ _Sept. 1. 1722._ - - Josepho Banks _de Revesby Ar._ Romanorum hæc Vestigia d.d. W. - Stukeley. - - _Stukeley. Del._] - -[Illustration: 19 - - _Amicissimo Henrico Pacey Ar. - Prospectum Bostoniæ Suæ d.d. W. Stukeley - Aug. 29. 1722._] - -[Sidenote: +Boston.+] - -[Sidenote: +TAB. XIX.+] - -_Leak_ signifies a watery marshy place. _Wrangle_ an _ab_ A. S. _Wear -lacus_, and _hangel arundo_, _lacus arundinibus obsita_? Return we -to Boston, _Fanum Sti. Botulphi_, the saint of sea-faring men. St. -Botulf (the bishop) his body lay in St. Edmund’s monastery at Bury. -Wm. Malmsb. p. 137. This seems to have been the last bounds northward -of the _Iceni_ in most antient times; therefore its old name was -_Icanhoe_, or _Icenorum munimentum_, as Mr. Baxter interprets it in -his Glossary. I guess the first monastery founded here was on the -south of the present church; for I saw vast stone walls dug up there, -and a plain leaden cross taken up; in my possession. Many were the -religious houses here in superstitious times, whose lands were given -to the corporation by Hen. VIII. as likewise the estate of the lord -Hussey, beheaded then at Lincoln for rebellion: he lived in one of -the houses where is a great square tower of brick, called now Hussey -tower. There are many such in this country, as that now called Rochford -and sometimes Richmond tower, which is very high. Queen Mary was a -great benefactress to this corporation, and gave them lands called -Erection-lands, to pay a vicar, a lecturer, and two school-masters: -they have now a revenue of a thousand pounds per annum. In the -parsonage-house is a scutcheon with a pastoral staff behind it thus: a -fess charged with a fish and two annulets between three plates, each -charged with a cross fitché. The church, I think, is the largest parish -church (without cross ailes) in the world: it is a hundred foot wide -and three hundred foot long within the walls: the roof is handsomely -cieled with Irish oak supported by four and twenty tall and slender -pillars: many remains of fine brasses in the church, none so perfect -as this in the south aile. Under the figures of the man and woman this -inscription, - - *Ecce sub hoc lapide henricus Mete sistit humatus - vi mortis rapida generosus semper vocitatus - hic quisquis veneris ipsum precibus memoraris. - sponsam defunctam simul aliciam sibi junctam - anno mil C quater quadragenoque deno - marcia quarto dies, extat ei Requies.* - -[Sidenote: TAB. III. 2d vol.] - -The tower is the highest (100 yards) and noblest in Europe, flattering -a weary traveller with its astonishing aspect even at ten miles -distance. It is easily seen forty mile round this level country, and -farther by sea: the lantern at top is very beautiful, and the thinness -of the stone-work is admirable. There was a prodigious clock-bell, -which could be heard six or seven miles round, with many old verses -round it: about the year 1710 they knocked it in pieces, without taking -the inscription. Twenty yards from the foundation of this tower runs -the rapid Witham, through a bridge of wood. On the south side of the -church-yard was, some few years ago, a curious monument[25] (as they -say) of one of the builders of the church, in stone, of arched work, -but now intirely demolished; and in the market place in my memory was -an old and large cross, with a vault underneath, steps all around -it, and at top a stone pyramid of thirty foot high, but at this time -quite destroyed. I found here an old brass seal of William Chetwynd, -with his coat of arms, A fesse lozengé between three mullets, which I -gave to the honourable gentleman of that name. Several frieries here, -black, white and grey; of which little remains. Oliver Cromwell, then a -colonel, lay in Boston the night before he fought the battle of Winceby -near Horncastle, Oct. 5. 1643. In North Holland they have a custom of -pulling geese twice a year; which has not escaped Pliny’s notice, X. -22. There is nothing left of the adjacent Swineshed abbey, founded by -Rob. Greisly, but a yew-tree and a knightly tomb fixed in the wall -of the new house. Here king John sickened in his journey to Sleeford -castle and Newark castle, where he died. - -East of Boston was a chapel called Hiptoft, and in the town a church -dedicated to St. John, but demolished. Here was a staple for wool and -several other commodities, and a vast foreign trade: the hall was -pulled down in my time. The great hall of St. Mary’s Guild is now -the place of meeting for the corporation and sessions, &c. Here was -born the learned John Fox the martyrologist. Queen Elizabeth gave the -corporation a court of admiralty all over the sea-coast hereabouts. - -Abundance of rare sea-plants grow near this coast: many species -of sea-_wormwoods_, _scurvy-grass_, _crithmum marinum_, _atriplex -marinum_, _&c._ of which we may expect a good account from Dr. Blair -of Boston; as also of many rare fishes caught hereabouts, _Raja_, -_needle-fish_, _star-fish_, &c. and of the _stickle-back_ oil is made -in very large quantities, the invention of the _Ichtyophagi_, Pliny -XV. 7. _Carum vulgare_, Caraway, grows plentifully in the pastures all -about Boston. _Sambucus foliis variegatis baccis albis_, Elder-tree -with gilded leaves and white berries, in Boston Fen-ends: a gilded -_ivy_ in Mr. Pacey’s garden. _Apium palustre Italicum_, Selery _vulgo -dictum_, in all the ditches of Holland. _Paronychia folio rutaceo_, -Rue-leaved whitlow-grass, on the north side of walls and houses. A -_barberry-tree_ without stones, in Alderchurch parish. _Asparagus -sylvestris_, wild asparagus, in Gorham wood, Whaplode. Many rare plants -in the east fen, such as _stratiotes azoides_, fresh water fengreen. -In the boggy grounds about Tattersall, _Trifolium palustre_, _ros -solis_, _virga aurea_, _myrtus brabantica_, _pinguicula_, _asphodelus_, -_adianthum aureum_. In the park, _androsæmum_, _tutsan_: in the ditches -hard by, _valeriana sylvestris_: in the heaths, many sorts of _erica_: -_solanum lethale_ about Cowhurn. - -[Sidenote: +Kirton.+] - -Pass we from Boston by Kirkton, famous for apples, denominated from its -fair church built by Alexander, that magnificent bishop of Lincoln, -after the manner of a cathedral with a transept. It has a handsome -tower standing upon four pillars in the middle of the cross, with a -noble ring of five large bells. I observe, this building is set upon -the ruins of a former church, part whereof is visible at the -west end: and in most of the churches in this country the same may be -discovered, from the different manner of the architecture; the most -ancient having small windows arched semicircularly; what is additional, -to be known by the pointed Gothic arches. This church is very neat both -within and without: upon the font is this inscription: - -+ *Orate pro anima alani burton qui fontem istum fieri fec. a. d. -mccccii.* - -Against the north wall is the monument of a person in armour, and round -it this inscription, - - + *Orate pro anima Iohannis de Meres.* - -The family of the Meres has flourished much hereabouts. - -[Illustration: _3·2ᵈ._ - - _Boston Cross_ - - _Stukeley delin_ _I Harris Sculp_] - -[Illustration: _4·2ᵈ._ - - The Remains of Crowland Abby. 14. July. 1724._ - - _Stukeley del._ _I Harris Sculp_] - -[Sidenote: +Crowland.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. IV.] - -Upon the edge of Lincolnshire, in the middle of a vast fenny level, -Crowland is situate, memorable for its early religion and the ruins -of an opulent monastery, which still makes a considerable prospect. -The abbey presents a majestic view of ruins; founded a thousand years -ago, by Athelbald king of the Mercians, in a horrid silence of bogs -and thorns; made eminent for the holy retirement of his chaplain -Guthlac, who changed the gaieties of the court for the severities of -an anchorite. The king endowed it with a profuse hand, and all the -land for several miles round the church belonged to it. The foundation -is laid on piles of wood drove into the ground with gravel and sand, -and they have found several of them in tearing up the ruins of the -eastern part of the church; for what remains now is only part of the -west end; and of that only one corner in tolerable repair, which is -their parish-church at present. It is not difficult at this time to -distinguish part of the very first building of this church, from that -which was built by Ingulphus.[26] In the middle of the cross stood once -a lofty tower and a remarkably fine ring of bells, of which there is a -proverb in this country still remaining: one prodigiously great bell -was sacred to Guthlac: they are said to have been the first peal of -bells in the county, perhaps England.[27] From the foundation of this -tower to the west end, is somewhat left, but only the walls, pillars, -with passages or galleries at top, and stair-cases at the corners. The -roof, which was of Irish oak finely carved and gilt, fell down about -twenty years ago: you see pieces of it in every house. The pavement is -covered with shrubs for brass inscriptions, and people now at pleasure -dig up the monumental stones, and divide the holy shipwreck for their -private uses; so that, instead of one, most of the houses in the town -are become religious. The painted glass was broke by the soldiers in -the rebellion, for they made a garrison of the place. All the eastern -part of the body of the church is intirely razed to the foundation; -and the ashes as well as tombs of an infinite number of illustrious -personages, kings, abbots, lords, knights, &c. there hoping for repose, -are dispersed, to the irreparable damage of English history. The great -Waltheof, earl of Northumberland and Huntingdon, was one of the saints -here: he was beheaded by the Norman conqueror. The monastic buildings, -cloysters, hall, abbot’s lodgings,[28] and the like, which no doubt -were very fine, are absolutely demolished; no trace thereof left, -whereby their extent might be guessed at. In the north-west corner -of the church stands a strong tower with a very obtuse spire, and a -pleasant ring of small bells. Over the west gate are the images of -divers kings, abbots, &c. among the rest St. Guthlac with a whip and -knife, as always painted: they were cut in a soft kind of stone, and -drawn over in oil colour with gilding. - -[Sidenote: TAB. VII.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XI.] - -Not far off the abbey eastward, upon a hillock, is the remnant of a -little stone cottage, called Anchor Church-house: here was a chapel -over the place where St. Guthlac lived a hermit, and where he was -buried.[29] Over-against the west end of the abbey is the famous -triangular bridge: it is too steep to be commonly rode over; horses and -carriages go under it: it is formed upon three segments of a circle -meeting in one point; they say each base stands in a different county. -The rivers Nyne and Welland here meet. On one side sits an image of -king Athelbald with a globe in his hand. St. Guthlake’s cross, between -Spalding and Crowland, near Brother-house and Cloot-bar, stands upon -the side of the bank, almost buried under earth: it is a boundary of -the church lands: of great antiquity.[30] - - - - - ITER OXONIENSE. II. - - _Sed prior hæc hominis cura est cognoscere terram._ +Virg.+ - - - _To Mr._ JOHN HARDY _of_ Nottingham. - -It is commonly remarked, that impressions of any sort made upon -youthful minds last long; and, like a cut in the bark of tender sprigs, -grow deeper and more apparent with advancing years. - - _Crescent illæ crescetis amores._ +Virg.+ - -The many hours I have spent with you when I first began to cast my eyes -upon the scenes of the world, and consider things about me, recur to my -mind with pleasure. I should be ungrateful then, (to which my temper -is most abhorrent) and I should deny myself a particular satisfaction, -did I not acknowledge the remembrance of a friendship now mature: -therefore to you I offer the earliest fruits of it, this small account -of the first pleasurable journey I can reckon to myself, where I had -opportunity for satisfying my growing curiosity. It is no wonder that -your learning, your taste of antiquities, and all endearing qualities, -made me fond of cultivating your acquaintance; and perhaps to you in -great measure do I owe what may not be discommendable in amusements of -the following kind, since our converse and our journeying sometimes -together, to visit the remains of venerable antiquity, in my first -years, gave me the love and incitement to such pursuits. I am not -concerned to make an excuse for the meanness of this present: were -it not juvenile, it would not be genuine. As when first with you, so -since it has been my method, to put into writing what little remarks I -made in travelling: at length I had collected so much, that with some -drawings of places and things taken at the same time, it was judged not -unworthy of publication: my consent was grounded upon hopes that by -this means I might give some account of every part of my time, and that -my own pleasures might not be altogether unuseful; especially thinking -it was no hard task to equal somewhat of this sort lately done, and -well received of the public. It is to be wished this branch of learning -should revive among us, which has lain dormant since the great Camden; -so that either in discoursing on it, or journeying, we might find some -entertainment worthy of men of letters. - -[Illustration: 7 _Croyland Bridge Lincolnshire._ - - _W. Stukeley f. 1721. & Jonathan Sisson Mathematico, Conterraneo suo - ut Amicitice pignus offert._] - -[Sidenote: +Stanford.+] - -Passing the fenny counterscarps of Holland, we begin our journey at -Stanford, which stands in a mild air and pleasant country abounding -with noblemen’s seats. Many religious houses have been at Stanford, -and once a college founded there, of which they boast much; but of -all these things we expect shortly an exact and full account from the -reverend Mr. Peck. About 1708, a brass seal was dug up, in the castle -at Stanford, of Thomas bishop of Elphin in Ireland; in possession -of Ralf Madyson, esq. Burghley, the earl of Exeter’s, is worth a -traveller’s view: the rooms are finely painted by Seignior Varrio: -abundance of curious pictures from Italy, collected by my lord’s -grandfather. At St. Martin’s church are the monuments of that noble -family. - -[Sidenote: +Foderinghay.+] - -Through a pleasant and woody country, we went to Foderinghay castle, -situate on a branch of the river Nyne, overlooking the adjacent country -and wide-extended meadows. The castle seems to have been very strong: -there was a high mount, or keep, environed with a deep ditch: the -space around it is guarded by a wall, double ditch, and the river: it -is mostly demolished, and all the materials carried off. They pretend -to show the ruins of the hall where Mary queen of Scots was beheaded. -Some say king James I. ordered this fortress to be destroyed out of -indignation: it was the seat of Edmund of Langley, duke of York, -buried in the collegiate church here, a very neat building, founded by -Edward duke of York, and here likewise interred: their monuments in -the chancel (which was intirely demolished at the suppression) were -restored by queen Elizabeth: the windows of the church are filled with -very handsome painted glass, representing the images of cardinals, -arch-bishops, abbots, &c. such as St. Denis with his head in his hand, -St. Guthlac of Croyland, Richard Scrope arch-bishop of Canterbury, &c. -these were saved in the late civil war, by the then minister of the -parish, with a little money given to the soldiers that came to execute -the harmless saints. We met with these uncouth verses upon the wall, -showing the poetry of those times: - - _In festo Martyrii processus Martiniani, - Ecclesiæ prima fuit hujus petra locata, - Anno Christi primum centum ac mille - Cum deca quinta H. V. tunc imminente 2ᵈᵃ._ - -On the north side of the church are the remains of the college, and the -meadow under it retains its name: the steeple has an octagonal tower -at the top, somewhat like that of Boston; at the bases of which are -the images of bears and ragged staffs, cognisances (I suppose) of the -founders; as the falcon and fetterlock often painted in the glass. They -have a very ancient MS. book here, of the affairs of the parish. There -is a school in the town, erected by Hen. VII. worth about 30l. per ann. -over the door is wrote, _Disce aut discede_. A stone bridge over the -river was built by queen Elizabeth anno 1555. shown by an inscription -on the wall, a monument of the spite of the soldiers, who cut out with -their swords, as they passed by, one line of it, _God save the queen_. - -[Sidenote: +Oundale.+] - -Oundale, or Avondale, is remarkable for a drumming well, much talked -of by the superstitious vulgar: no doubt it is owing to the passage of -the water, and air upon certain conditions, through the subterraneous -chinks; for, as Virgil says, in his fine poem called _Ætna_, - - _Secta est omnis humus penitusque cavata latebris, &c._ - -and that it is done by intervals or pulses as it were, is but -consentaneous to many of Nature’s operations. Here are two long -bridges of stone. Louick church, on the side of a hill, is very fine, -founded by John de Drayton, anno 1125: the windows are full of coats -of arms. There is a picture of the founder in armour, on his knees, -presenting his church to God: here is his monument, of the Veres too, -and Staffords earls of Wiltshire, and others who intermarried with his -family: there is a modern one of the late Dutchess of Norfolk, who was -married, after her divorcement, to the present owner of the family -seat, called Drayton house, Sir John Germayn, who has for the most part -new-built it. - -[Sidenote: +Boughton.+] - -From hence we went to Boughton, the seat of the duke of Montagu, -magnificent for building, painting and gardens: the stables are large -and stately, well calculated for the designed grandeur of the house; -for it is not yet finished: the hall is a very noble room: on the -cieling is a convocation of the gods admirably painted, as are many -suites of rooms and apartments, stair-cases, galleries, &c. beside -the great numbers of portraits and other curious pictures, part of -the furniture: the gardens contain fourscore and ten acres of ground, -adorned with statues, flower-pots, urns of marble and metal, many very -large basons, with variety of fountains playing, aviaries, reservoirs, -fish-ponds, canals, admirable greens, wildernesses, terraces, &c. the -cascade is very fine: a whole river, running through the length of the -gardens, is diversified very agreeably to complete its beauty. - -[Sidenote: +Geddington.+] - -A mile off is Geddington, where in a _trivium_ stands one of the stone -crosses[31] built by king Edward I. in memory of his queen Eleanor, -who died at Hareby near Bolingbroke, in Lincolnshire, 1291. It is -formed upon a triangular model, of pretty Gothic architecture to suit -its station. Her bowels were buried by the high altar in the Lady’s -chapel of Lincoln minster; and in her journey thence to Westminster, -where ever her herse rested, the king erected one of these magnificent -crosses, as a monument of his great love: upon them are the arms of -England, Castile, Leon and Poictou. These are the places, as far as I -am at present informed, Lincoln, Grantham, Stamford,[32] Geddington, -Northampton, Stony Stratford, Dunstable, St. Alban’s, Waltham, -Cheapside over against Wood-street, Charing-cross. Near this place is -Boughton, having a petrifying spring, which forms itself a canal of -stone as it runs, consolidating the twigs, moss, and all adventitious -bodies. We saw near the road a spring-head, with a statue of Moses in -the middle of the water, belonging to Boughton house. - -[Illustration: 12 _The West View of_ Waltham Cross _11 Jul. 1721._ - - _Petro Le Neve Ar. Norroy. tab. d.d. Wˢ. Stukeley_ - - _Stukeley delin._ _J. Harris Sculp._] - -[Sidenote: +Eltabona+] - -Through Kettering we went to Northampton, the most elegant town -in England: which, being wholly burnt down, is rebuilt with great -regularity and beauty. There is a spacious square market-place, a fine -assize-house of Corinthian architecture. Allhallow’s church is built -after a pretty model, with a cupola and a noble portico before it of -eight lofty Ionic columns: upon the balustrade a statue of king Charles -II. There is an inscription of John Bailes, aged above 126: his sight, -hearing and memory, intire; buried 1706. One of the old churches, St. -Sepulchre’s, seems to have belonged to the Knights Hospitalers of St. -John of Jerusalem, of a circular form: there has been another tacked to -it of later date, with a choir and steeple, as to that at Cambridge of -the same name and figure: another such I am told is at Guildford, which -are all of this sort that I know of in England. I suspect these are -the most ancient churches in England, and probably built in the later -times of the Romans for Christian service, at least in the early Saxon -reigns. Westward are the ruins of the castle, by the river side, built -by Simon Silvanect I. earl of Northampton, who founded here likewise -St. Andrew’s abbey: his son Simon Silvanect II. earl of Northampton -and Huntingdon, founded St. Mary de Près abbey here about 1150. This -probably is a Roman town arising from one of the forts built upon -this river, as that great people proceeded northward in the conquest -of the island; and being mentioned by Ravennas between Leicester and -Stoney Stratford, it is very likely the Eltabona there, meaning _ael_, -_supercilium_, and Avon, the river. Roman coins have been found on -the other side the river: there are likewise the footsteps of the -fortifications round the town, thrown up with bastions in the time of -the civil wars. Under those on the south side, descending into a stone -quarry which has abundance of intricate turnings, I saw a piece of oak -wood, as big as both one’s hands, lie between the _strata_ of solid -stone: though petrified, the ligneous fibres when split would burn -in a candle. I suppose it to have been lodged there in the deluge. A -little way from the town, about Sprotton, are the pits where they dig -up tobacco-pipe clay. Near Billing, about three miles from Northampton, -not far from the earl of Twomond’s seat, was lately found a mine of -copper, and coal, and marble, as they told me. - -[Sidenote: TAB. XII.] - -[Sidenote: +Guildsborough.+ Roman _Camp_.] - -From Northampton, over the river, by a large stone bridge where is an -old religious house, half a mile off in the London road, is another of -queen Eleanor’s stone crosses, called Queen’s cross, with her images -and arms. It stands on a hill in the open country upon eight steps, in -form much like that of Waltham, of which I have given a print. On the -other side of the town, about three miles distance, is Holdenby house, -which lies in noble ruins: here king Charles I. was kept prisoner. -A little way off is Naseby,[33] where the bloody and fatal battle -happened between his forces and those of the parliament, upon a fine -plain where at present stands a windmill: the marks of several great -holes appear, where the slain were buried. This town, as near as may -be, is the navel of England. Near is Guildsborough, so named from a -Roman camp of a square form, and deep ditch, called the Burrows. I -was told of several more thereabouts, which I suppose those made in -the time of Ostorius about the heads of the rivers here; which all -together made a sort of fortification between the north and south parts -of the kingdom, especially between the Avon and Severn. A long barrow -at Pesford, called Longman’s hill. We saw Althorp, a curious seat of -the earl of Sunderland’s, elegantly furnished: there is a fine gallery -adorned with good pictures, and a noble library. - -[Sidenote: +Eston.+] - -My lord Lemster’s seat, now earl of Pomfret, near Towcester, is -a stately building, and stands pleasantly, encompassed with good -plantations of wood, visto’s and agreeable prospects. In the grand view -to the back front, beyond the garden, is a large and long canal: in the -house are several curious pictures; an original, of Sir Paul Ricot; of -a pillar of Persepolis, one of those sixty foot high; Perseus loosing -Andromeda, by Gioseppi Cari; a copy of Galatea, from Raphael: but what -highly inhances the glory of this seat, is the vast number of Roman -and Greek marbles, statues, busto’s, bas reliefs, &c. part of the most -noble collection of the great earl of Arundel. My lord has it in his -thoughts to build a large room, or gallery, to receive this invaluable -treasure; at present they are for the most part exposed to the weather -in the garden. I shall cursorily name them all with the haste of a -traveller, though each single piece merits a serious view, and a long -description. - -At the end of the side terrace in the garden, and near the house, -stands an intire column of marble in two pieces, fluted, taken from -among the ruins of the temple of Apollo at the isle of Delos, where -many now lie: this is set upon a proper base and pedestal made -purposely for it: the capital is unusual, but very beautiful, and -seems perfectly to answer that description which Vitruvius gives us, -IV. 1. of the origin of the Corinthian capital from the conceit of -Callimachus, who was pleased with the appearance of a basket covered -with a tile, and luckily set upon the middle of a root of _acanthus_, -or _brank ursin_, which shot up its curled leaves around it in a -delicate and tender manner: upon it stands a statue, the upper part -naked. In the niches of that wall along the walk are several broken -statues of goddesses, naked or in fine drapery, where the mind is -divided between the pleasure of seeing what remains and the grief for -what is lost. Upon the stairs that descend into the garden are a great -many whole and broken statues, pieces of _basso relievo_, altars, urns, -tombs, &c. such as the destruction of Troy, represented in the Trojan -horse, the merriment of the Trojans, the slaughter of Priamus, Achilles -driving his chariot with Hector tied to it: there is another bas-relief -of a battle; a figure recumbent at dinner; two figures in procession, -but covered over with moss; four figures, two with Phrygian bonnets; -good pieces of cornice-work, with mouldings of ovolo’s, bead-moulds, -&c. a tomb, the husband and wife with the son between; a piece of -Bacchanalians; the end of a tomb, or vase; a mask and revelling -figures; an horseman and footman engaging. Most of these antiquities -seem of the highest Greek times. Before the steps upon pedestals are -two Egyptian _sphynges_ mitred, and two Muses sitting: other things -thereabouts are a sea-horse in basso; a man carrying another; a capital -of a pillar made of a horse’s head, with branches coming out of his -mouth like them at Persepolis, a dog’s head on one angle, and lions -on the other: upon it are busts and heads: over that is a portal of -a monumental stone, with a woman and two children, the tomb of some -player, with fine bassos of masks, the busto of the deceased; four -Genii; two lions devouring horses, finely cut: over it a priestess by -the side of a temple: eight round altars or pedestals adorned with -bulls heads, festoons, &c. which stand upon the piers of the stairs: -upon and about them are other antiquities, such as the bottom part of -Scylla; three monsters like dogs devouring three men; a receiver for an -urn. Cupid asleep lies upon this. - -On the north side the front of the house, a tomb; another capital of -a horse’s head, &c. over it a basso of Venus riding on a sea-horse, a -Cupid driving; a lion over it; two Cupids, _alto relievo_: some busts -over the windows; a young Nero, Faunus, &c. - -At the south end of the house, on the ground, an old headless statue; -upon the basement, a tomb of a boy wrought in channel-work, his busto -in basso upon it: over the windows a small statue; a woman with a child -in her arms; a tomb; another capital from the temple of Apollo at -Delos; a Greek mask. - -Next let us descend into the garden along the middle walk. In the -parterres about the fountain stand four Greek statues very intire, -bigger than the life, of most admirable art: they are dressed in -matron-like robes, or outer garments, in most comely folds, yet cut -so exquisitely, that the folds of the inner drapery appear, and the -whole shape of the body, as if transparent: they cannot be sufficiently -commended. Between them and the house on the south side, is that -celebrated statue of Cicero intire, with his _sudarium_ in his right, -and a scroll in his left hand: the sight of the eyes is cut hollow. I -could not possibly excuse my self half a quarter of an hour’s serious -view of this master-piece, frequently going round it: where so much -seeming simplicity of the carver, has called forth all the fire of that -divine genius that could make statues hear, as this artist has made -them speak, and left an eternal monument of contention between him and -the great orator: it grieved me to think it should stand a day longer -in the open air. Answering to this on the left, is another statue of -more robust shape and workmanship: his left hand holds a scroll, his -right is laid in a passionate manner upon his breast: if sinewy muscles -denote one that worked on the anvil, it may possibly be Demosthenes. -The two next that correspond beyond the fountain, are Scipio Africanus -and Asiaticus, in an heroic dress. Beyond, on each side the steps -going down to the lower garden, are two _colossi_, Fabius Maximus the -cunctator, and Archimides with a square in his hand. At each end of -this cross-walk, or terrace, which terminates the middle or principal -one, is built a handsome stone-work with niches and pediment supported -with pilasters, contrived on purpose to receive other pieces: in that -on the left hand, or north side, is the tomb of the famous Germanicus, -adorned with carving of bas-relief: upon it two admirable busts of -him and Agrippina his wife. Between these upon the tomb stands an -altar-like pedestal with a small and ancient statue of Jupiter sitting. -In the pediment over the arch is a curious piece of marble, whereon -is raised the upper part of a man with his arms and hands extended, -and the impression likewise of a foot: this I suppose the original -standard of the Greek measure. Upon the _apex_ of the pediment is a -fine statue of Apollo with the right arm naked, the other covered with -a mantle: below the hips it ends in a _terminus_; so that it is an -_Hermapollon_. In two niches here, are two large and curious trunks, -as fine as the loquacious Pasquin or Marforio at Rome. Upon the two -outermost pilasters are two other beautiful trunks. At the corner of -this terrace is an altar. At the other end of this cross walk, under -the stone-work is a marble chair with an inscription on the back of -it, denoting that it belonged to the high-priest of Isis, as said; -for it is obliterated: it is remarkably easy to sit on: the sides are -embossed with winged _sphynges_. On each side of it are two sitting -fragments. Upon the top of this stone-work is a very large and curious -Greek statue of Pallas, coloss proportion, naked arms, a plumed helmet -on her head, the Gorgonian _Ægis_ on her breast: the very marble is not -without its terror. - -We shall now pass through the house. The hall is a fine lofty room: in -the niches are several statues; a Greek lady with her arms folded under -the drapery, which with that of the under garment are perfectly seen -through the robe; Caius Marius in a senatorial habit; Cupid asleep, -leaning on his torch: M. Antony, a naked figure; all these as big as -the life: over the chimney-piece, a little Hercules tearing the lion; -seven bustos, an excellent one of Pindar; one said to be of Olympias, -I fancied it Lucretia. By the great stairs, painted in _fresco_ by Sir -James Thornhill, two bustos, one of the Grecian Venus. In niches upon -the stairs, six statues as big as the life: Diana in a hunting-habit, -a tuck’d-up coat, buskins of skins; a lady in Greek drapery; the Venus -de Medicis; Paris with a mantle, the Phrygian bonnet, and odd stockings -of the Dacian mode; (this is a statue of great antiquity;) a nymph -with a long flowing garment tied under the breast, a fine turn of the -body; a man, the right shoulder naked. In the little dining-room, over -the chimney, an antique marble vase. In the green-house I saw these -following: a Flora, the upper part lost; most inimitable drapery to -show the naked, like the celebrated one at Rome: a coloss head of -Apollo, from the collar bone to the crown of the head three foot; the -body is said to lie among many more under Arundel house in London: the -trunk of Camilla, both arms: a young Bacchus. - -[Sidenote: +Towcester+ Roman.] - -Towcester is a pretty town, of Roman antiquity: through it in a strait -line runs the Watling-street. Edward the elder built the mount called -Berry hill when he fortified the town against the Danes. Roman coins -have been oft found at this place.[34] The inhabitants here, both old -and young, are very busy in a silken manufacture, and making of lace. -This town has been ditched about on the west side; every where else -guarded by the rivers. - -[Sidenote: +Buckingham.+] - -From hence we went through spacious woods to Buckingham. There was a -castle before the Conquest, but now scarce to be known. The church is -well built, particularly the chancel: they showed us a place called St. -Rumbald’s shrine, where his coffin was taken up. St. John Baptist’s -chapel, built, as said, by archbishop Becket, is now a free school. -From this place we travelled upon a Roman road. - -[Sidenote: +Alauna.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. V. VI. 2d Vol.] - -Entering Oxfordshire, we saw on our right the park called Caversfield, -which antiquaries say was the place where Allectus slew Carausius. -This is near Bicester, which I visited big with expectation of finding -somewhat considerable from a conflux of towns’ names that promised -much. I observed Lawnton hard by, which seemed to confirm Mr. -Baxter’s conjecture of Alauna hereabouts. Chesterton, Aldchester, and -Wandlebury, were specious marks for enquiry; but I find they all depend -upon Aldchester, where was the undoubted Alauna of Ravennas, mentioned -thus in that valuable author. Next to London, Tamese, Branavis, Alauna; -of all which I shall give an account in this journey. - -[Illustration: 5·2ᵈ. _Prospect of Aldchester near Bicester._ Alauna. - - _Stukeley delin._ _E. Kirkall sculp._] - -[Illustration: 6·2ᵈ. +Alavna.+ - - _Stukeley del._ _E. Kirkall sculp._] - -[Sidenote: +Akeman-street.+] - -South of Bicester about a mile, two Roman roads cross one another -at right angles, in the middle of a large and beautiful meadow; the -Akeman-street running east and west, and another directly north and -south: the first comes out of Buckinghamshire, I imagine from Fenny -Stratford through Winslow; passes by here at Longford, over Bicester -river, under the north side of Gravenhall hill; so proceeds by -Aldchester, Kirklington, to Woodstock park, and so to Cirencester: the -other crosses it at Aldchester, running directly through the middle of -the city; then through the southern meadow belonging to Wandlebury, -where it is visible enough to a nice eye, the grass being poor, and -much abates of the verdure for its whole breadth: then entering a -pasture, it is very plain, being elevated into a ridge of a hundred -foot breadth, and two little ditches all along the sides: it leaves -Marton on the east and Fencot, making fords over the brooks, paved -with great broad stones its whole breadth; then proceeds the length -of Ottmore, a spacious level, marsh or meadow, two or three miles -together, where its ridge is plain, though broken by many sloughs; then -through Beckly by the park wall; then under Shotover hill, and so, I -suppose, passes the Thames at Sandford below Oxford. Northward from -Alauna it proceeds through the northern meadow belonging to Chesterton -and Bicester, where the stones it is composed of may be seen in the -little ditches they have dug upon each side; then it enters the lane, -and goes on the west side of Bicester town, at some little distance, -and strait forwards on the east of Caverfield park by Stretton Audley, -where many Roman coins have been found; and so to Radley by Buckingham, -being now the great high road between the two towns, of which we may -say, in the poet’s words, - - _Scilicet hæc ævi stravit longinqua vetustas, - Heu nimis ex vero nunc ea strata jacent!_ - -The city called now Aldchester is a parcel of ploughed field, on the -south side of the Akeman way, a mile at least south of Bicester: -it stands in the middle of the meadow, which is very level, more -especially stretching itself north and south of the city. I know not -whether the ground which is the site of the city be naturally higher, -or raised by the ruins and rubbish thereof: but, if any, this deserves -to be called _urbs pratensis_. I can scarce believe that this meadow -was so subject to inundations as now, at the time of setting the city -here; and I never observed the like position elsewhere, when there is -higher ground near enough: it may be thought rather a city of pleasure -than strength. A very little way off to the east is Gravenhall hill, a -copped hill curiously covered with wood and hedge-rows: beyond it is -Berry hill, or vulgarly the Brill, guarded at top with one of their -camps. A little brook comes from Chesterton, a mile off, and runs on -the south side of the city; for between that and the Akeman way is it -placed. When I came upon the spot, I soon found it by the prodigious -blackness and richness of the earth, as they were ploughing; and -this shows it to have been once in a very flourishing condition and -populous; for the fund of nitrous particles and animal salts lodged -in this earth are inexhaustible. The site of this city is a common, -belonging to the inhabitants of Wandlebury, and every one has a -certain little portion of it to plough up; whence we may well imagine -the land is racked to the last extremity, and no great care taken in -the management of it: yet it bears very good crops of wheat. As I -traversed the spot, at every step I saw pieces of pots and vessels, -of all sorts of coloured earth,[35] red, green, and some perfectly -of blue clay, that came from Aynhoe: I picked up several parcels, -thinking to have carried them away, till I perceived them strown -very thick over the whole field, together with bits of bricks of all -sorts: the husbandmen told me they frequently break their ploughs -against foundations of hewn stone and brick; and we saw upon the spot -many paving stones with a smooth face, and laid in a very good bed -of gravel, till they draw them all up by degrees, when the plough -chances to go a little deeper than ordinary. Infinite numbers of coins -have been found, and dispersed over the adjacent villages without -any regard; and after a shower of rain now, they say, sometimes they -find them: I got two or three of Tetricus jun. &c. A good while ago, -they dug up a glass urn full of ashes, laid in a cavity cut out of a -stone: I went to see the stone, used as a pig-trough, at Wandlebury, -in which office it has served ever since Dr. Plot’s time; for I find -he mentions it, page 329: it is squarish, the cavity is roundish, nine -inches deep, and a foot diameter; but the urn was broke and lost. I -heard likewise, by enquiry, that they have found brass images, _lares_, -and all sorts of antiquities, which I encouraged them to preserve for -the future. This city was fenced with a bank and ditch quite round: -it is a square of one thousand foot each side, standing upon the four -cardinal points: the _vallum_ and ditch are sufficiently visible, -though both have met with equal change; the _vallum_, from the plough, -which levels it to a certain quantity every year; and the inundation of -the meadow raises the ditch: these are most easily discernible at the -corners, for there they are still pretty perfect, and so notoriously, -that the country people tell you in those places were four towers to -defend the city. This little brook, that runs on the southern ditch, -encompassed the city quite round originally: the track of the way that -passes the city in the middle from south to north, is still very high -raised, and another street crossed it the contrary way in the middle, -and so went eastward, meeting the Akeman in its way to Langford: these -were the two principal streets, and doubtless there were others; and -great foundations are known to be all around in the meadows, especially -northward and eastward upon both sides the Akeman. On the west side of -the city, a little distance from the ditch, is an artificial hill in -the very middle of the meadow which they call the Castle hill, and is -full of Roman bricks, stone, and foundations. I attentively considered -this place: the circuit of it is very plain and definable; it was a -square of two hundred foot: I guess it originally to have been some -considerable building in the middle of an _area_, or court; whether a -_pretorium_, or a temple, might probably be ascertained upon digging: -the edge of the _area_ is very distinct upon the meadow, by the -difference in the colour of the grass, the one gray, the other green; -but the main body of the building reached not so far, but lies in a -great heap of rubbish, much elevated, and of much less extent: before -it, to the south, has been another _area_, paved with a bed of gravel, -at least above a hundred foot broad: I doubt not but a curious person, -that will be at the expence of digging this plot, would find it -well worth his while. This is the sum of what I observed at the place: -whether the present name be Alcester, as retaining any thing of the -Latin, or Aldcester, signifying the old city, I dispute not; but think -it has no manner of relation to Allectus that slew the brave Carausius. -The name of Akeman way I am fit to think a vulgar error, as commonly -imagined from going to the Bath:[36] more probably it is _ag maen_, -the stony _agger_, or ridge; this is confirmed by the people calling -the other road too, that goes north and south, by the same name, -Akeman-street. There has been a religious house at Bicester near the -church, a priory of St. Eadburg, founded by Gilbert Basset. This town -is famous for excellent malt liquor, of a delicate taste and colour. - -[Illustration: 7·2ᵈ. _Prospect of Tame._ +Tamese.+ _14 Sept. 1724._ - - _Stukeley delin._ _E. Kirkall Sculp._] - -[Sidenote: +Bury-hill+ Ro. _camp_.] - -From hence we journeyed by Aynhoe, where is a vein of stiff clay, -exceeding blue: at Souldern is a curious barrow, neatly turned like a -bell, small and high; I believe it Celtic. Then climbing for a long -while together, we ascended Bury hill, a village upon the highest -copped mountain in the country: it is vulgarly called the Brill, as Mr. -Camden takes notice: this has a vast prospect over Bernwood, Ottmore, -and the whole country, bounded only by the superior Chiltern, seven -miles off, which hence has a most notable aspect, and ends insensibly -at the eastern and western horizon, diminishing regularly all the way: -at the top of the Brill, by the church, I saw parcels of the old Roman -camp, which has been modernised with additional bastions in the civil -wars. Before the Conquest, here was a palace of Edward the Confessor. -Much Roman coin has been found hereabout. - -[Sidenote: +Tamese.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. VII. 2d Vol.] - -Below here, two or three miles off, stands Tamese, now Tame, upon the -side of a meadow; a pleasant town, consisting of one long and broad -street, running north-east and south-west: behind lie the smiling -arable fields: it is almost encompassed with rivulets. This was called -a _burg_ in the time of Edward the elder, anno 921, who besieged the -Danes here, and took the burg, or castle. I saw infinite quantities -of the _cornu ammonis_, a foot and half or two foot diameter, laid in -the roads among rubble stone to mend them: all the quarries hereabouts -abound with them of all dimensions. Here is a fine large church in form -of a cross: in it many brasses and old monuments: some I transcribed. - -_Thome de Grey filii Roberti dni. de Grey Retherfeld militis obiit anno -dni. millesimo_ ccc. Another thus. - - O certyn deth that now hast overthrowe - Richard Quatremayns squier and Sibil his wyf that ly her now full - lowe - That with rial prinses of councel was true and wise famed - To Richard duke of Yorke and after with his sone king Edward IIII - named - That founded in the chyrche of Tame a chantrye six pore men and a - fraternity - In the worship of St. Christofere to be relieved in perpetuitye - They that of their almys for their sowles a _pater noster_ and - _ave_ devoutly wul seye - Of holy fadurs is granted them pardun of days xl alway. - -Which Richard and Sibil out of this world passed in the yer of our lord -M. cccclx. upon their sowles jhu have mercy amen. Another thus. - -_Orate pro animabus Galfredi Dormer mercatoris Stapile ville Calis & -Margere & Alicie uxoris ejus qui quidem Galfridus ob. 9 Mar. 1502. -quorum_ _animabus propicietur deus amen._ There are the images of -twenty-five children upon this stone. - -John lord Williams of Tame baronet, baron of Tame, ob. 14 Oct. 1559. - -Here lyeth Sir John Clerk of Northweston knight which tuke Lovys of -Orleance duke of Longuevill and marquis of Rotelin prysoner at the -journy of Bomy by Tyrvain the xvi day of August in the v yer of the -reign of the noble and victorious king Henry viii. which John decesed -the v day of April 1539. - -There is an abbot (I suppose) in stone in the church wall of the south -transept within side: near the church are the ruins of a priory built -by Alexander bishop of Lincoln. At Notely, not far off, is another. A -pot of Roman money was found at Sherburn in this neighbourhood last -year. - -[Sidenote: +Islip.+] - -Islip is memorable for the birth of Edward the Confessor. The font -which stood in the king’s chapel, as still called, where he was -baptised, is removed: but that font in Dr. Plot seems not of such -antiquity. There are some remains of an ancient palace. - -[Sidenote: +Oxford.+] - -Oxford requires a more elaborate description than a stranger can -possibly give; and indeed so numerous are the colleges and halls, that -one can scarce get a tolerable idea of them in the three days I staid -here. The prospect of this place from Shotover hill is very inviting, -nor is our expectation frustrated when in the place. The bridge over -the Cherwel is a stately work, twice as broad as London bridge. -Magdalen college, the legacy of our countryman, William of Wainflet, -which he endowed with a princely hand, deservedly is thought one of the -noblest foundations in Europe: the old oak is still left, nigh which -he ordered it to be built. A vast tract of ground is inclosed with a -castellated wall for gardens. On the other side the river is a park -too, with long shady walks, but too near the water, wherein likewise -more resembling those of Academus by Athens. The chapel is large and -magnificent: the tower is a lofty strong work, in it a fine ring of -bells: the whimsical figures in the quadrangle, over the buttresses, -amuse the vulgar; they are the licentious inventions of the mason. -Over-against this is the physic garden, whose curiosities Mr. Bobart -showed us, and his own: since his death, its purpose is not so well -executed. Here are remarkably fine greens in all the gardens at Oxford, -especially in yew: the two piers here, with flower-pots on them, -are thought to exceed; but the two yew men (as one waggishly called -them) that guard the door, are ridiculous; the architecture of these -gates is, I suppose, of Inigo Jones: two _sphynges_ at the entrance -are properly placed: these are without the city walls. University -college has a new quadrangle built by legacy of Dr. Radcliffe; but -I think uniformity, in this and other structures in the university, -no sufficient reason for using the old manner of building. Queen’s -college over-against it is of a good taste, improved to its present -splendor under the auspices, and in great degree at the charge, of the -late Dr. Lancaster. The library, the hall, and chapel, are beautiful. -The old gatehouse has a pretty cieling over it of stone; they say it -was the chamber of Harry the Vth’s uncle and tutor. Behind it is New -college; a large chapel, a good visto to the garden, in which is a -pleasant mount: this was the foundation of William of Wickham, bishop -of Winchester: it stands in an angle of the old city walls. At All -Souls a new court is building, but in the anachronism of the Gothic -degenerate taste: the new library is a spacious room, the legacy of -colonel Coddrington: the chapel is very elegant; the altar, entirely -of marble, was made at the charge of George Clark, esq. one of the -fellows. Christ church, the magnificent work of cardinal Wolsey: the -stone cieling over the entrance to the hall is very pretty; the new -quadrangle, designed by the learned Dr. Aldrich, is beautiful. St. -John’s college has two handsome quadrangles, the portico’s built by -archbishop Laud: two fine statues, in brass, of king Charles I. and his -queen, probably designed by Inigo Jones. But it is impossible for me -to run through the whole of this splendid university, which I leave as -a fitter task for some of her own learned sons. The school is a large -building: the Bodleian library, an immense store-house of most valuable -books and manuscripts, the donation of archbishop Laud, the earl of -Pembroke, O. Cromwell, Selden, Digby, Bodley, and other great names: -over it is a spacious gallery, adorned with pictures of founders, -benefactors, and others, and with the antique marbles which were the -learned part of the inexhaustible collection of the earl of Arundel: -these have been illustrated with the accurate comments of Selden and -Prideaux. Here are some of the most valuable Greek monuments now in the -world. Over the porch, upon a handsome pedestal of black marble, stands -the brass effigies of the earl of Pembroke, their noble and generous -chancellor, given by the present earl: this was moulded by Rubens. Here -is likewise a very large collection of Greek, Roman, British, Saxon, -English, and other coins, presented by several hands. The divinity -schools, finished by Humphry the good duke of Gloucester, have a very -curious stone roof. The Ashmolean repository, beside some good books, -papers and MSS. of the founder, has a large collection of rarities in -antiquity, nature and art, &c. such as original pictures of famous men, -marbles of old Egyptian carving in figures and hieroglyphics, a fine -marble inscription in Arabic, which was over the door of a school at -Tangier; an Egyptian mummy, being a man dressed like _orus Apollo_; -the cradle of Henry VI. the hat of Bradshaw plaited with steel within, -under which he sat in judgment upon king Charles I. a vast fund of -precious and other stones, &c. which it is impossible to enumerate. -Here is, beside, a choice apparatus of instruments for chymistry and -experimental philosophy under the direction of Mr. Whiteside. The -printing-house is a good building with a bold portico, but next the -schools disgraced with a wretched statue of my lord Clarendon. Between -these two last and the schools stands the Sheldonian theatre, the -first piece of architecture of Sir Christopher Wren, a spacious and -well-proportioned room: it is worth while to go upon the top of it, -to see the carpentry of the roof, and the fine prospect of the city -and country thence. Before Baliol college they showed us the stone in -the street which marks the place of the barbarous martyrdom of the -venerable archbishop Cranmer and bishop Ridley, then upon the banks of -the ditch without the walls of the city, which went along where the -theatre now stands. Beyond the river, amongst meadows encompassed with -rivulets, stood Oseney abbey, founded by Robert D’oyley 1129.[37] upon -the bridge is a tower called Friar Bacon’s Study, from that famous and -learned monk, who in dark ages had penetrated so far into the secrets -of nature. Oxford, no doubt, means no more than the passage over the -river Ox, Ouse, or Isis, which are equivalents. Over another bridge of -the Isis we went to see Ruleigh abbey, where some ruins and parcels -still remain, turned to a common brew-house: a disjointed stone in -a partition wall preserves this monumental inscription, *Elae de -Warwik comitissae viscera sunt hic*. This Ela was daughter of Wil. -Longspee earl of Salisbury, and wife of Thomas de Newburgh the last -earl of Warwick of that name: she died on Sunday the fifth of the ides -of February, 26 Ed. I. 1297. she gave lands to this abbey, and founded -a chapel here, as appears by an inscription dug up 1705. her body was -buried before the high altar at Oseney, her heart in this place. Of the -castle there is a square high tower remaining by the river side, and a -lofty mount or keep walled at top, with a stair-case going downward: -this seems to have been a very strong place, built by Robert de Oili in -the time of William the Conqueror. If there was a town here in Roman -times, it seems to have been in this quarter. The White-friars was a -royal palace; and near a green called Beaumonds, they showed us the -bottom of a tower upon the ground where the valiant Richard I. _Cœur -de lion_, was born. Without the town on all sides may be seen the -remains of the fortifications raised in the time of the civil wars. -It is in vain to pretend in this paper to enumerate the particular -remarkables of every college, which are eighteen in number, and seven -halls: these for beauty, grandeur, and endowment, no doubt, exceed any -thing: their chapels, halls, libraries, quadrangles, piazzas; their -gardens, walks, groves, and every thing, contribute to make the first -university in the world. As to the city, though the colleges make up -two thirds of it, and are continually eating it away, in buying whole -streets for enlargement; yet it is large, regular, and crouds itself -out proportionably: the streets are spacious, handsome, clean, and -strait; the whole place pleasant and healthful; the inhabitants genteel -and courteous: the churches are many and elegant enough, especially -Allhallows, a neat fabric of modern architecture, with a very handsome -spire. St. Peter’s in the east is venerable for its antiquity: the east -end by its fabric appears prior to the time of the Conquest. - -Leaving this famous repository of learning, we saw on our left hand, on -the other side of the river, the last ruins of Godstow nunnery, placed -among the sweet meadows: here fair Rosamond, the beloved mistress of -Henry II. had a tomb remarkably fine; but before the dissolution, -scarce could her ashes rest, whose beauty was thought guilty even after -death. - -[Sidenote: +Woodstock.+] - -At Woodstock we saw part of the old palace, and her famous labyrinth, -which is since destroyed: her bathing-place, or well (as called) is -left, a quadrangular receptacle of most pure water, immediately flowing -from a little spring under the hill, and over-shadowed with trees: -near it some few ruins of walls and arches. King Ethelred called a -parliament here; it has been a royal seat from most ancient times: -Henry I. inclosed the park. A-cross this valley was a remarkably fine -echo, that would repeat a whole hexameter, but impaired by the removal -of these buildings. A stately bridge from hence now leads along the -grand approach to the present castle: one arch is above a hundred foot -diameter: a cascade of water falls from a great lake down some stone -steps into the canal that runs under it. - -The new palace is a vast and magnificent pile of building; a royal gift -to the high merit of the invincible duke of Marlborough; the lofty -hall is painted by Sir James Thornhill; the salon by la Guerre: the -rooms are finely enriched with marble chimney-pieces and furniture, but -more by the incomparable paintings: many of Rubens’s best and largest -pieces; that celebrated one of himself, his wife, and child, among -others; Vandyke’s king Charles I. upon a dun horse, of great value; -and the famous loves of the Gods, by Titian, a present from the king -of Sardinia. The gallery I admired beyond any thing I have seen, lined -with marble pilasters and whole pillars of one piece, supporting a most -costly and beautiful entablature, excellent for matter and workmanship: -the window frames of the same, and a basement of black marble quite -round. Before it is stretched out a most agreeable prospect of the fine -woods beyond the great valley: it is indeed of an admirable model: -this, and what is of the most elegant taste in the whole house, is of -the duchess’s own designing. The chapel is not yet finished, and which -I doubt not will be equal to the rest. The garden is a large plot of -ground taken out of the park, and may still be said to be part of it; -well contrived by sinking the outer wall into a foss, to give one a -view quite round, and take off the odious appearance of confinement -and limitation to the eye, and which quite spoils the pleasure and -intention of a garden: within, it is well adorned with walks, greens, -espaliers, and visto’s to diverse remarkable objects that offer -themselves in the circumjacent country. Over the pediment of this -front of the house is a curious busto in marble of the French king, -bigger than life, taken from the gate of the citadel of Tournay. The -orangery is a pretty room. At the entrance hither from the town, her -grace has erected a noble triumphal arch to the memory of the duke, and -has projected a vast obelisk to be set in the principal avenue in the -park, whereon is to be inscribed an account of his great actions and -ability in council, and in war. Near the gate is the house where our -famous Chaucer was born: methinks there was somewhat poetical in the -ground that first gave him birth, and produced these verses, which I -ask pardon for inserting, upon a subject which his genius only could be -equal to: - - _Fame, like the optic artist, wont to swell - The object larger to the armed eye, - Sing on, and mighty Marlborough’s actions tell: - Secure from flattery in words abound, - And let thy trumpet diapasons sound; - Speak but enough of him, ’tis all reality._ - -[Sidenote: +Stunsfield+, Ro. _town_.] - -Through the park we crossed again the Akeman-street, which runs all -along with a perfect ridge made of stone, dug every where near the -surface: it bears between north-east and east: it is a foot-path still -through the park with a stile, and a road beyond it by which it passes -to Stunsfield, where are marks of an intrenched work, once a Roman -station: and in the place they found (the 25th Jan. 1712.) a most -curious tesselated pavement, for bulk and beauty the most considerable -one we know of: it was a parallelogram of thirty-five foot long and -twenty foot wide, a noble room, and no doubt designed for feasting and -jollity: in one of the circular works was Bacchus represented in stones -properly coloured, with a tiger, a _thyrsus_ in his hand enwrapped with -vine leaves. This admirable curiosity deserved a better owner; for the -landlord and tenant quarreling about sharing the profits of showing -it, the latter maliciously tore it in pieces. When the earth was first -laid open upon its discovery, they found it covered a foot thick with -burnt wheat, barley and pease: so that we may guess upon some enemy’s -approach it was covered with those matters to prevent its being -injured, or was turned into a barn and burnt. - -We crossed a foss called Grimesditch, the _vallum_ eastward: it goes by -Ditchley wood and house, which takes its name from it. Dr. Plot does -not sufficiently distinguish this from a Roman road: it was doubtless -some division of the ancient Britons: the country is all a rock of -rag-stone. Many good seats of the nobility hereabouts; Cornbury lord -Clarendon’s, Ditchley lord Litchfield’s, duke of Shrewsbury’s at -Hathorp, new built of stone very beautiful. Juniper grows plentifully -hereabouts. At Chadlington is a square Roman camp. At Enston is a -pretty curiosity in water-works, cascades falling down artificial rocks -overgrown with waterplants, chirping of birds imitated, many pipes of -water, secretly to dash the spectators, and fancies of that kind. - -[Sidenote: +Chipping-norton.+] - -Chipping-Norton must have been a great trading town by the number of -merchants, as they are there called, buried in the church under brasses -and inscriptions: others of alabaster: and the name of the place -signifies it, as our Cheapside, equivalent to market, to buying or -cheapening. There are marks of a castle by the church, which probably -was demolished in the time of king Stephen. Lord Arundel, beheaded in -the barons wars, lived in it: a place called the Vineyards near it. -Roman coins are frequently found here. The church is a good building of -a curious model, the south porch hexagonal, and a little roof over it -supported by a stone arch: under the choir is a charnel-house full of -the ruined rafters of mortality. A priory was here near Chapel on the -heath: the Talbot inn was religious: stories of subterraneous passages -thence to the priory. A well lately found in the ploughed fields at -Woodstock hill, a mile south of this place, and more such like in the -fields. Hereabouts they call camps _barrows_, meaning boroughs. - -[Sidenote: +Rowldrich.+ Br. _temple_.] - -Hence we rode to see Rowldrich stones, a very noble monument; the first -antiquity of this sort that I had seen, and from which I concluded -these works to be temples of the ancient Britons. I crave leave to -reserve its description for another work. In the clay upon these hills -they dig out _cornua ammonis_, small, but very prettily notched: they -are nothing but clay hardened in the shell. Further on, in Tadmerton -parish, we rode through a large round camp on the top of a hill doubly -intrenched, able to contain a great army. Bloxham has a very fine -church, the steeple of an odd make, but pretty enough. At Broughton -near Banbury is the seat of the lord Say and Seal. - -[Sidenote: +Branavis.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. VIII. 2d Vol.] - -Banbury was a Roman station, called _Branavis_. That master builder the -bishop of Lincoln, Alexander, built the castle anno 1125, I doubt not -but upon the Roman fortification: he enlarged it and built it after -the mode of those times, taking in a huge space of ground with a wall, -towers and ditch: within he made another work upon one side, where were -the lodgings, chapel, &c. A small part of the wall of this is only now -left, of good hewn stone; but the ditch went along the middle of the -adjacent street, and houses are built by the side of it, out of its -ruins, as people now alive remember: in the civil wars it received -new additional works, for there are plain remains of four bastions; a -brook running without them. Many Roman coins and antiquities have been -found here. There is an inn called the Altarstone inn, from an altar -which stood in a nich under the sign: this had a ram and fire carved -on it, as they say: part of the stone is still left: I imagine this -was originally a Roman altar: they tell us William the Conqueror lay -at this inn. The town is a large straggling place and dirty, though on -a rock with sufficient descent: one would think it was walled about in -most ancient times. Here are three gates, though of later make. The -tower of the church, they say, was much higher than at present: the -church is of great compass: three rows of pillars, but of too slender -a manner, which makes them all lean awry, and different ways: many -additions have been made to it: a touch-stone monument of the family -of Cope: other old monuments ruined. The bridge is long, consisting -of many arches. _Branau supercilium aquæ_ seems well to answer the -etymology of the Roman name, as Mr. Baxter has it: The stone of -this country is mixed with sand. Black gloves is a great manufacture -here. Kenric the West-Saxon king, anno 540, routed the Britons at this -place. - -[Illustration: 8·2ᵈ. _Prospect of Banbury._ +Branavis.+ _13. Sept. - 1724._ - - _Stukeley delin._ _E. Kirkall sculp._] - -[Illustration: 9·2ᵈ. _Prospect of Warwick_ _July 7ᵗʰ. 1725_ - - _Stukeley del._ _Fletcher Sculp._ - - PRAESIDIUM] - -We went over the vale of Red-horse and Edghill, which presents us with -a most extensive prospect, steep to the north: on the top of it, at -Warmleighton, is a large and strong intrenchment of a circular but -irregular form, said to be Danish by the inhabitants, but seemingly -more ancient and British. Descending the hill for a mile, we rode -through Radway, and over the field between it and Kyneton, where the -famous battle of Edghill was fought: we were shown some of the graves -of the slain. At Tellisford we crossed the Foss-way. - -[Sidenote: +Præsidium.+ Warwick.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. IX. 2d Vol.] - -Warwick is situate on a rock, a fine new-built town, having been almost -wholly burnt down in 1694. The church and lofty tower is new built, -except the east end, which is old and very good work: there are a many -fine brass monuments of the earls of Warwick and others, as the earl of -Essex; many chapels and confessionaries, with other remains of ancient -superstition: in the chapter-house on the north side is a tomb of the -lord Brook. The castle stands upon the river Avon, over which is a -stone bridge with a dozen arches: across is a large stone-work dam, -where the water falls over it as a cascade, under the castle wall, -which is built on a rock forty foot above the water. It overlooks the -whole town and country, being delicately situate for pleasure and -strength, fenced with a deep mound and strong embattled double walls -and lofty towers: there are good apartments and lodgings next the -river, the residence of the lord Brook: on one side of the area is a -very high mount: we were shown the sword and other gigantic reliques -of Guy the famous earl of Warwick. The priory on the north-east side -of the town overlooks a pleasant woody vale: there are a great many -curious original pictures, by Vandike and other good hands, of kings, -queens, famous statesmen, persons of learning both at home and abroad. -A mile out of town, on the side of a hill, is a pretty retired cell, -called Guy-cliffe: in an old chapel there is a statue of Guy eight foot -high: the fence of the court is intire rock, in which are cut stables -and out-houses. We saw the rough cave where they say Guy died a hermit. - -[Sidenote: +Coventry+.] - -Coventry is a large old city: it was walled about: the gates are -yet standing. It is adorned with a fine and very large church and -beautiful spire a hundred yards high. There is another good church in -the same yard. The cross is a beautiful Gothic work, sixty six foot -high: in niches are the statues of the English kings. At the south end -of the town stands a tall spire by itself, part of the Grey Friers’ -conventual church. The town-house is worth seeing: the windows filled -with painted glass of the images of the old earls, kings, &c. who have -been benefactors to the town. Here the famous lady Godiva redeemed the -privileges thereof almost at the expence of her modesty, the memory -whereof is preserved by an annual cavalcade. These verses are wrote in -the town-house. - - _Auxiliis olim stetit alma Coventria regum - Dum fortuna fuit. Magnos colit hinc Edoardos - Henricosque suos, urbs non ingrata patronos. - Jamque adeo afflictis crescit spes altera rebus - Elizabetha tuis princeps mitissima sceptris. - Lætior illuxit nullo pax rege Britannis. - Ergo age diva tuis sis fœlix civibus usque, - Exuperans patrias & avitas æmula laudes._ - - _Princeps ille niger (niveis cui vertice pennis - Crista minax, victi regis cæsique Bohæmi - Exuviis) heros Edoardus magnus in armis, - Hic sedem posuit. Sic dicta est principis aula. - Hoc authore fuit libertas civibus aucta, - Muneribusque ornata suis, res publica crevit. - Hinc depicta, vides, passim sua penna per urbem - Testatur magni monumentum & pignus amoris._ - - _Labentes fatis (quid enim perdurat in ævum?) - Fortunas urbis tandem miseratus agrorum - Extendit fines, Northumbrius ille Johannes. - Cumque fuit bello dux invictissimus, armis - In mediis coluit pacis, vir providus, artes; - Exemploque suum vocat ad pia facta Robertum._ - - _Non tantum meruit Leofricus Cestrius olim - Nec conjux Godiva, pii dux fœmina facti. - Godiva ab turpi quæ lege coacta mariti - Fertur equo, diffusa comas nudata per urbem. - Asseruitque suos, culpent utcunque minores! - Vicit amor patriæ libertatisque cupido: - Quantum hodie patrem referens Leicestrius heros - Retro sublapsam qui nostram restituit rem, - Sustinet in pejus ruituram urbisque salutem. - I modo quo virtus te fert, sic itur ad astra. - Et quibus insistis fœlix, procede paternis - Auspiciis, maneatque tuos hæc cura nepotes._ - - Holbech, May 1712. - - - - - ITER CIMBRICUM. III. - - ——_quid virtus & quid sapientia possit - Utile proposuit nobis exemplar Ulyssem. - Qui domitor Trojæ, multorum providus urbes - Et mores hominum inspexit_—— +Hor.+ - - - _To_ RICHARD MYDDLETON MASSEY - _of_ Wisbech, _M. D._ - -To you of right I inscribe this journey, to which your company and my -inclination to see somewhat of the world allured me. I had conceived -great notions of the old Britons betimes, and longed to hear at least -a language spoke soon after the deluge; and I then prided myself as -much as Cæsar formerly in making this small inroad into their country. -I willingly take this occasion of recognizing how I ought to esteem -it a happiness, that you chanced to be seated in a place so near that -of my nativity, and presented to me a subject of imitation, in all -the commendable qualifications that may conduce to the felicity and -ornament of life. Your deep insight into the _materia medica_, the -theory and practice of physic, your great knowledge of antiquities, -natural history, and all polite learning, and the excellence of your -hand in designing, were as so many spurs to me in my young years, when -we are most apt at imitation: and that the latter exercise of the pen -is of importance to all the others, is too notorious, and universally -allowed by all, to need any solemn proof. Who sees not that the defeats -and confusion in anatomy and botany, and every part of philosophy, -is owing to the want of drawing? when the innumerable labours of so -many ages are either lost to posterity, or imperfectly transmitted, -for that reason. How well does this range and distinguish ideas, and -imprint them in one’s own mind, as well as make them known to others? -It is not to be disputed but a person that understands it, sees much -farther into things than others: the beauties of art and nature are -open to him. Indeed every body is pleased with perfection and beauty, -though they know not why: as suppose that of a fine statue, they are -hugely delighted with it, though they understand not that it is owing -to the proper disposition and contrast of the limbs, to the attitude, -the grace of the posture, the expression of the action, the light and -shade, and a thousand other requisites, as well as the particular -delicacy and outline of the parts and members: and these things are -only to be learnt and gathered from Nature’s self, from copying and -observing it; for she is the grand exemplar of all fine strokes in -drawing; as Aristotle formed his Art of Poetry from the great genius -of Homer, and he from the force of Nature. - -[Sidenote: +Grantham.+] - -Grantham was certainly a Roman town. Burton in his Commentaries on -Antoninus’s Itinerary relates, that a great stone trough, covered with -a stone, was dug up there, full of Roman coins, p. 216.[38] The street -that runs on the east of the church is called Castle-street: between -it and the river have been dug up foundations of a castle, as they -say.[39] I have a piece of glass with enamel upon it, ground with an -engine; which is curious, and I take it for Roman: it was found in the -Grange garden. Here is a spacious church and fine spire, much noted: -it is a hundred yards high, equalled by another in this county, Louth, -besides the tower of Boston: under the south wall of this church are -two tomb-stones, said to be of the founders; one in old French, the -date only legible, 1362; the other, *hic jacent ricard de calceby et -margareta vx ejus m ccclxii*. On a stone in a wall in Church-lane -this inscription (the _orate pro anima_ seems to have been cut out by -order of some zealot) *Iohis Goldsmyth mercatoris de Grantham*, a -coat of arms, quarterly; in the sinister upper quarter a mullet. There -were many religious houses here, some reliques of them left: in one -just by the market-place is a very pretty little chapel, or oratory, -adorned with imagery. The Angel inn was once a commandery. Here is a -good free-school, erected by Richard Fox bishop of Winchester, where -Sir Isaac Newton received the first principles of literature, under -the famous William Walker then school-master.[40] Belvoir, the seat of -the dukes of Rutland, stands on a high hill with a very fine prospect: -you may see Nottingham castle and Lincoln minster, and all around you, -below, many towns and lordships the demesnes of this noble family. Here -is a perfect pattern of the true old English hospitality. In the fine -gallery are many ancient and modern family pictures and others; the -original one of king Charles I. as he sat at his trial. This place was -the possession of Robert de Totney,[41] a great man who came in with -William the Conqueror: he built a priory near it. I imagine originally -here was a Roman camp; for coins have been found about it.[42] Upon -the edge of Lincolnshire we visited the tombs of the duke of Rutland’s -family at Bottesworth, which are worth seeing. - -[Sidenote: +Nottingham.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XXXIX.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XXXVIII.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XIV.] - -Nottingham we arrived at after crossing the Roman road called Foss: -it is a pleasant and beautiful town. They have a great manufacture -here for stockings, which they weave in looms from the invention of -a neighbouring clergyman. Their ale is highly valued for softness -and pleasant taste: the cellars in the town are hewn out of -the rock two or three story deep, to fourscore steps sometimes. The -castle is a goodly building on a high perpendicular rock; seems to -have been modelled after some of Inigo Jones’s draughts: many good -pictures there: it commands a vast prospect. The south side of the -rock is altogether inaccessible: a winding stair-case along it to the -bottom, which they call Mortimer’s hole: there are vast subterraneous -grottos cut underneath. St. Mary’s church is a fine old lightsome -building, with a good ring of eight bells. We saw Mr. Hurst’s gardens, -late Pierpoint’s, which are very pretty; in the middle a copy of the -Dalmatian slave in metal. One may easily guess Nottingham to have -been an ancient town of the Britons: as soon as they had proper tools -they fell to work upon the rocks, which every where offer themselves -so commodiously to make houses in; and I doubt not that here was a -considerable collection of colonies of this sort: that which I have -described in Plate 39. will give us an idea of them; it is in the duke -of Newcastle’s park. What is visible at present is not of so old a date -as their time; yet I see no doubt but that it is formed upon theirs: -this is a ledge of perpendicular rock hewn out into a church, houses, -chambers, dove-houses, &c. The church is like those in the rocks at -Bethlehem and other places in the Holy Land: the altar is natural -rock, and there has been painting upon the wall; a steeple, I suppose, -where a bell hung, and regular pillars. The river here winding about -makes a fortification to it; for it comes to both ends of the cliff, -leaving a plain before the middle. The way to it was by gates cut out -of the rock, and with oblique entrance for more safety. Without is a -plain with three niches, which I fancy their place of judicature, or -the like: there is regularity in it, and seems to resemble that square -called the Temple in the Pictish castle, Plate 38. in Scotland. The -wild _cherry-tree_ grows upon this place, and many curious plants, -_liver-worts_, _lychnis sylvester_. 9. _clus. ruta muraria_, _rosa -pimpinellæ folio odorata_, _capillus veneris_, _umbilicus veneris_. -Between this and the castle is an hermitage of like workmanship. The -butchers shambles is an old edifice built for a granary. Clifton near -here is a good seat, with pretty gardens and a noble prospect: in the -church are many old brasses of the family of this name. Three miles -from Nottingham is Woolaton hall, the seat of my lord Middleton; -which is a good piece of old building: there is a pretty summer-house -panelled and cieled with looking-glass, which produces a pleasant -effect: underneath is a water-house with grotesque work of shells, &c. -A little beyond, in the road, upon the brow of the hill, is a high -rugged piece of rock, called Hemlock-stone, seen at a good distance: -probably it is the remains of a quarry dug from around it. Beyond this -we entered Derbyshire. There are some few ruins of Dale abbey seated -in a valley, and the east end of the choir over-grown with ivy: the -mullions of the windows are knocked out (I suppose for sake of the -iron:) it is overlooked by a near and high hill covered with oaks. In -the ascent, out of the rock is cut a cell, or little oratory, called -the Hermitage: on one side the door and windows, at the east end, a -square altar and a step up to it of the same quarry, little niches cut -in the wall, and a bench to sit on all round. - -[Illustration: 39 BRYTTISH. - - _Rudera Coloniæ Troglodyticæ juxta. Nottingham._ - - _Lin flu._] - -[Illustration: 38 +Pictish+ - - _Caves of Hawthornden, Scotland._ - - _Stukeley delin._ _I. Harris sculp._] - -[Sidenote: +Derby.+] - -Derby has five churches; the tower of one is very fine. The new-erected -silk manufacture is a remarkable curiosity: the house is of a vast -bulk, five or six stories high: the whole furniture is one machine -turned by a single water-wheel, which communicates its power through -the whole, and actuates no less than 97–746 several wheels or motions, -and still employs three or four hundred hands to over-look and act -in concert with it. Mr. Loom the owner brought the design of it from -Italy.[43] The waters that run here, whether from the lead mines or -coal, are apt to cause the _bronchocele_ in the fair sex. - -[Sidenote: +Burton.+] - -Beyond Derby, along the Ricning way is Burton upon the Trent, where -is a bridge of thirty-seven arches. Here was an old abbey: they are -pulling down the ruins to build a new church. - -[Sidenote: +Derventio.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. LXXXVI.] - -A mile below Derby, upon the river Derwent, stood the old Roman city -Derventio, now called Little Chester. I traced the track of the wall -quite round, and in some places saw under ground the foundation of it -in the pastures, and some vaults along the side of it: they dig it up -daily to mend the ways with. Mr. Lord’s cellar is built on one side of -the wall three yards thick: it is of a square form, standing between -the Roman way called the Ricning street and the river. Within the walls -are foundations of houses in all the pastures; and in the fields round -the castle (as they call it) you may see the tracks of the streets -laid with gravel: in a dry summer the grass over them is very bare. -Divers wells are found, some still remaining, square, curbed with good -stone. Brass, silver, and gold Roman coins have been found in great -abundance; earthen pipes, aqueducts, and all kinds of antiquities. -Towards the river they have dug up human bones, brass rings, and the -like. There was a bridge over the river, for it was too deep and rapid -for a ford: they can feel the foundations of it with a staff. In Mr. -Hodgkin’s cellar a stag’s head with horns was dug up; probably a temple -thereabouts: a square well in his garden three foot and a half one way, -and four another. - -[Sidenote: +Ricning-way.+] - -A little further northward upon the Ricning street,[44] which seems to -take its name from the Saxon _rige_, _dorsum_, is Horreston castle, -whose ruins on a hoary rock are nearly obliterated; and out of it -they cut great quantities of rubstones to whet scythes withal. We are -now got into the very Peak of Derbyshire, the British Alps, where the -odd prospects afford some entertainment to a traveller, and relieve -the fatigue of so tedious a road. Now you pass over barren moors, in -perpetual danger of slipping into coal-pits and lead-mines; or ride for -miles together, on the edge of a steep hill, on solid slippery rock or -loose stones, with a valley underneath, where you can scarce discover -the bottom with your eye; which brought into my mind that beautiful -verse in Virgil, - - _Saxa per & scopulos & depressas convalles._ - -Instead of trees and hedges, they fence in their poor meadow or arable -with walls of loose stones picked up from beneath their feet. The -extended sides of the mountains are generally powdered over as it were -with rocks, streams of water dribbling down every where; and now bolder -cataracts diversify the romantic scene. - -At the smelting-mills they melt down the lead ore, and run it into a -mould, whence it becomes pigs as they call it: the bellows continually -are kept in motion by running water. We were complemented to be let -down two hundred yards deep into the mines, if we pleased. We came to -a monstrous parcel of gigantic rocks, seemingly piled one a-top of -another as in the wars of the gods, called the Torr: there were a few -inhabitants at bottom, in little cottages, who durst trust themselves -under so ruinous a shelter: it was fitly represented by those verses of -the poet, - - _Stabat acuta silex, præcisis undique saxis, - Speluncæ dorso insurgens, altissima visu. - Dirarum nidis domus opportuna volucrum!_ +Virg.+ viii. Æn. - -[Illustration: 86 DERVENTIO - _31 Sept. 1721._ - - Simon Degg Ar. _Castrum Romanum jam suum d.d. W. Stukeley_] - -I took the pains to clamber on hands and knees almost to the top, and -entered another hermit’s cell, who had a mind, if possible, to get -quite out of the world: it is hewn in the rock, with a most dreary -prospect before it: on one end is a crucifix and a little niche, where -I suppose the mistaken zeal of the starved anchorite placed his saint, -or such trinket. Over-against it, about half a mile off, is another -such cliff; but by the care of a gentleman that lives underneath (Mr. -Ashe) it is reduced into a more agreeable form: there is an easy ascent -up to it by steps hewn out of the rock, and abundance of alcoves, -grots, summer-houses, cellars, pinacles, dials, balustrades, urns, &c. -all of the same materials: earth is carried to the top, and fine grassy -walks with greens planted along them, upon this hanging terrace, whence -you have a free view over many a craggy mountain. I was highly pleased -with so elegant a composure, where Art and industry had so well played -its part against rugged Nature. - -[Sidenote: +Chatsworth.+] - -We went through Wirksworth, and over the rapid Derwent, whilst on a -sudden (like the advantageous change of a scene) we were surprised at -the sight of Chatsworth, the famous seat of the duke of Devonshire, -deservedly reckoned one of the wonders of the Peak, as remarkable for -its situation in so wild a place as its curious fabric and ornaments. -The river here for a while puts on a smooth aspect, and glides gently -by, as unwilling to leave so glorious a place: between it and the house -is a fine venerable walk of trees, retaining the name of that great -philosopher Hobbes, who studied frequently under its shade. A noble -piece of iron-work gates and balusters exposes the front of the house -and court, terminated at the corners next the road with two large -stone pedestals of Attic work, curiously adorned with trophies of war, -and utensils of all the sciences, cut in _basso relievo_. This face -of the building is Ionic, the whole being a square of a single order, -but every side of a different model: a court in the middle, with a -piazza of Doric columns of one stone each overlaid with prodigious -architraves. The stone is of an excellent sort, veined like marble, -hewn out of the neighbouring quarries, and tumbled down the adjacent -hill: it is introduced into the work in very large sizes, finely -jointed. In the anti-room to the hall are flat stones, of fourteen -foot square, laid upon the heads of four pillars, and so throughout: -in the hall stairs the landing or resting steps of the same dimension: -the doors, chimneys, window-cases, stairs, &c. of marble; the sashes -very large, gilt; the squares two foot broad: the cielings and walls -of all the apartments charged with rare painting of Varrio and other -famous hands: the bath-room all of marble curiously wrought. The -chapel is a most ravishing place: the altar-end and floor marble, the -seats and gallery cedar, the rest of the wall and cieling painted. The -gardens abound with green-houses, summer-houses, walks, wildernesses, -orangeries, with all the furniture of statues, urns, greens, &c. with -canals, basons and water-works of various forms and contrivance, -sea-horses, drakes, dolphins, and other fountains that throw up the -water: an artificial willow-tree of copper spouts and drops water from -every leaf: a wonderful cascade, where, from a neat house of stone like -a temple, out of the mouths of beasts, pipes, urns, &c. a whole river -descends the slope of a hill, a quarter of a mile in length, over -steps, with a terrible noise and broken appearance, till it is lost -under ground. Beyond the garden, upon the hills, is a park, and that -overlooked by a very high and rocky mountain: here are some statues and -other antiquities. - -[Sidenote: +Buxton.+] - -Hence we went by Bakewel, and left Haddon-house belonging to the duke -of Rutland on our left hand, in a pleasant and fruitful valley. We -travelled ten miles over a perfect desert to Buxton, encompassed with -waste and boggy mountains and naked cliffs: the tops of the hills -hereabouts are quagmires, or springs, furnishing numerous rivers -running hence all manner of ways. Nature seems to have thrown these -precipicious heights into the middle of the island on purpose for her -limbeck, to distil the liquid sources of springs by some unknown power. -The valleys are the firmest ground, made of the gritty washings of -the mountains: we were every moment diverted with the appearance of -curious plants, but no tree to be seen. At Buxton are the admirable -warm springs, which invite numbers of strangers yearly, especially -from the northern countries. The duke of Devonshire has built a large -and convenient house for their reception: the bath-room is arched over -head, and the whole made handsome, convenient, and delightful. This -collection of tepid waters, exceeding clear, will receive twenty people -at a time to walk and swim in: the temper thereof, equal to new milk, -or that of one’s own blood, procures a moderate perspiration: its -effect is remarkable for giving that gentle relaxation of the solids, -which takes off the weariness and fatigue of a journey, and refreshes -immediately: it is useful physically in many cases, and may be indulged -more than the hot baths of Somersetshire, which frequently do harm for -that reason, through an imprudent use. Such a one as this was imitated -by the sumptuous bagnios of the Roman emperors. Sir Tho. Delves, who -received a cure here, gave the pump and a pretty stone alcove over the -drinking-spring in the yard: the water may be raised to what height you -please. Philosophers have long sought for a solution of the cause of -these hot springs: the chymists know many mixtures will produce a flame -and effervescence, particularly steel filings and sulphur, when water -is poured thereon; but that these could continue the same course and -quantity of water, and this regular heat, through all ages and seasons, -is worthy of admiration. Indulgent Nature indeed has made some amends -to the inhabitants of this barren region by this inestimable gift. -We found in one of the rooms these verses, wrote upon the wall by a -physician that formerly frequented the place: - - _Corpore debilior Grani se proluit undis, - Quærit aquas Aponi, quem febris atra necat. - Ut penitus renem purget cur Psaulia tanti, - Vel quæ Lucinæ gaudia, Calderiæ? - Sola mihi Buxtona placet, Buxtona Britannis - Undæ Grani, Aponus, Psaulia, Calderiæ._ - -About half a mile off is that stupendous cavern called Pool’s Hole, -under a great mountain: the entrance at the foot thereof is very low -and narrow, so that you must stoop to get in: but immediately it -dilates into a wide and lofty concavity, which reaches above a quarter -of a mile end-wise and farther, as they tell us: some old women with -lighted candles are guides in this Cimmerian obscurity: water drops -from the roof every where, and incrusts all the stones with long -crystals and fluors: whence a thousand imaginary figures are shown you, -by the name of lions, fonts, lanterns, organs, flitch of bacon, &c. At -length you come to the Queen of Scots pillar, as a _terminus_ of most -people’s curiosity. A stream of water runs along the middle, among the -fallen rocks, with a hideous noise, re-echoed from all sides of the -horrid concave: on the left hand is a sort of chamber, where they say -Pool, a famous robber, lived. We may very well apply these verses to -the place: - - _At specus & Caci detecta apparuit ingens - Regia, & umbrosæ penitus patuere cavernæ: - Non secus ac si qua penitus vi terræ dehiscens - Infernas reseret sedes & regna recludat - Pallida, diis invisa, superque immane barathrum - Cernatur——_ +Virg.+ Æn. viii. - - Within appears old Pool’s tremendous cave, - With glimmering lights redoubled horror shown; - Yawning, as earth by strong convulsions torn - Opens the caverns of the Stygian king - Dire, hateful to the gods, and the black pit - Discloses wide—— - -We entered the pleasanter country of Cheshire at Lyme, the seat of -Mr. Leigh: here are curious gardens, lakes, cascades, fountains, -summer-houses. This is a fine level, woody, and rich county, abounding -with lakes of water called meres: the towns stand but thin, and it -being mostly inclosure, there are paved causeways for horses along -the clayey roads: many ancient seats and parks, but most ruinous and -decayed. We were entertained by the worthy Sir Francis Leycester at his -seat, Nether Tabley, by Knutsford, upon the Roman way from Mancunium -to Deva: this house stands in the midst of a mere: here is a good -library completed by the curious possessor, with a vast addition to his -ancestors’ store, of all the English history especially. In cleansing -this mote some time since they found an old British axe, or some such -thing, made of large flint, neatly ground into an edge, with a hole in -the middle to fasten into a handle: it would serve for a battle-axe. -Rotherston church stands upon a hill, and commands a lovely prospect -across a mere, a mile and half in length and a mile over, where -amongst great variety of fish are smelts found, properly inhabitants -of the sea. There is a floating island, formed from turf, sustained -by implication of the roots of _alnus nigra baccifera_ growing on it, -which the wind wafts over from one side to the other. On the south side -of the steeple is this inscription: - - *Orate pro anima domini willmi hardwicke vicarii istius ecclesiae - et pro animabus omnium parochianorum qui hoc sculpt.* - -Out of the church-yard you see to the Yorkshire hills beyond -Manchester. By the church-porch were lately dug up three large stone -coffins. In the church are abundance of coats of arms. Among other -curious plants grow hereabouts _calamus aromaticus_ and _ros solis_. -The Roman road from Manchester to Chester passes the Mersey river at -Stretford, through Altringham, to the north of Rotherston mere; then by -Chapel in the street, by Winingham, to Northwich; then by Sandy way, -the Chamber or Edesbury, it passes the river at Stanford, so called -from the stony ford, to Chester. - -[Sidenote: +Condate.+] - -We were at Northwich, which I take to be Condate, as all distances -persuade me. It is still, among others hereabouts, famous for -brine-springs, whence they make great quantities of finest salt, by -boiling the water in large iron pans of small depth: as fast as the -salt crystallises, they rake it out and dry it in conic wicker baskets: -the duty paid by it amounts to a great sum of money. About thirty years -ago on the south side of the town they discovered immense mines of -rock salt, which they continually dig up, and send in great lumps to -the maritime parts, where it is dissolved and made into eating-salt. -We were let down by a bucket a hundred and fifty foot deep to the -bottom of the salt quarry, a most pleasant subterraneous prospect: it -looks like a large cathedral, supported by rows of pillars and roof -of crystal, all of the same rock, transparent and glittering from the -numerous candles of the workmen, labouring with their steel pick-axes -in digging it away: this rock-work of salt extends to several acres -of ground. There is a very good church in the town: the end of the -choir is semicircular: the roof of the church is very fine, whereon -are carved several of the wicker baskets before mentioned; whence they -report it was built out of the profits of the salt works. At Lawton -Yates they bore for the salt spring to sixty yards deep; lower down, at -Hassal, it is forty seven; at Wheeloc, eighteen; about Middlewich it is -less; at Northwich it arises to open day; which seems to intimate that -the salt spring runs between layers of the earth in an horizontal line: -upon boring, it rises with great impetuosity, so that the workmen have -scarce time to get out of the wells. This is all along the side of a -brook that comes from a remarkable hill called Mawcop, upon the edge -of Staffordshire, so that the ground rises above the true level in the -mentioned proportion. - -[Sidenote: +Mancunium.+] - -Manchester, in Lancashire, is the _Mancunium_ of the Romans, the -largest, most rich, populous, and busy village in England. There -are about two thousand four hundred families. The site of the Roman -_castrum_, between Sir John Bland’s and Manchester, is now called -Knock Castle. They have a fabulous report of Turquin a giant living -there, killed by Sir Lancelot de Lake, a knight of king Arthur’s: in -it was found a Saxon ring, mentioned in Hickes’s _Thesaurus_, now in -possession of Sir Hans Sloan. A Roman altar dug up here, described by -Dr. Lister, Philos. Trans. N. 155. p. 457. and a large gold Roman ring. -The Castle field, as sometime called, is about as big as Lincoln’s-Inn -square, the foundation of the wall and ditch remaining. Some call it -Man-castle: its name comes from the British _maen_, _lapis_, meaning -its rocky soil. The old church, though very large, having three -rows of neat pillars, was not capable of containing the people at -divine service; whence they raised, by voluntary subscriptions, a new -edifice after the London models, finished last year: the choir is -alcove-fashion, and the pilasters painted of _lapis-lazuli_ colour. -There is a fine new street built to the north. Their trade, which is -incredibly large, consists much in fustians, girth-web, tickings, -tapes, &c. which is dispersed all over the kingdom, and to foreign -parts: they have looms that work twenty-four laces at a time, which -was stolen from the Dutch. The college has a good library for public -use, endowed with 116l. per ann. to buy more books, and a salary for -the librarian. There is a free-school maintained by a mill upon the -river, which raises 300l. per annum. On the same river, for the space -of three miles upwards, there are no less than sixty water-mills. The -town stands chiefly on a rock; and across the river is another large -town, called Salthorp. Dr. Yarburgh, son to him late of Newark, showed -me a great collection of old Greek, Persian, Tartarian, and Punic coins -brought from Asia. About a mile off, at the seat of Sir John Bland, is -a Roman altar, lately dug up thereabouts: in the mosses, as they call -them in this country, they often find reliques of antiquity, such as -arrow-heads, celts, pick-axes, kettles, &c. of brass; many are in the -repository of the library: likewise subterraneous fir-trees, as in most -other countries in the like sort of ground. French wheat grows commonly -hereabouts, much used among the poor people, of very different species -from ours: they have likewise wheat with long beards like barley, and -barley with four rows of grain on an ear, and great plenty of potatoes. - -[Sidenote: +Deva.+] - -We passed through Delamere forest, upon the Roman road, in our way -to Chester. They say here was formerly an old city, now called the -Chamber on the Forest; I suppose, some fort or camp to secure the -road. From hence you have a fine prospect to the Welsh mountains, -such a noble scene of nature as I never beheld before. Beeston castle -is on our left, built upon a rocky precipice. Chester is a fine old -city, and colony of the Romans, the residence some time of the _legio -vicesima victrix_: a hypocaust was lately found, lined with bricks -made by that legion. I need not repeat what other authors say of the -antiquities at this place. The rows or piazzas are singular, through -the whole town giving shelter to foot people. I fancied it a remain -of the Roman porticos. Four churches beside the cathedral, which is -a pile venerable indeed for age and almost ruin: there are shadows -of many pictures on the walls, _madonnas_, saints, bishops, &c. but -defaced. At the west end are some images of the earls Palatine of -Chester in niches. The adjoining abbey is quite ruined. The walls -round the city are kept in very good repair at the charge of the -corporation, and serve for a pleasant airy walk. The Exchange is a neat -building, supported by columns, thirteen foot high, of one stone each: -over it is the city-hall, a well-contrived court of judicature. The -castle was formerly the palace, and where the earls assembled their -parliaments, and enacted laws independent of the kings of England, -and determined all judicial trials themselves. Abundance of Roman and -British antiquities are found hereabouts. At Stretton, Roman coins, -and a camp-kettle of copper dug up at Codington: near it divers other -antiquities. The old Watling-street way from Dover came originally -hither through Stretton and Aldford; though I suppose in after-times of -the Romans they turned it off more southward into Wales, for sake of -the many towns seated on the Severn. - -[Sidenote: +Wales.+] - -[Sidenote: +Bonium.+] - -Next we entered Wales, and came to Wrexham in Flintshire. Here is a -good church, and the finest tower-steeple I ever saw, except Boston: -it is adorned with abundance of images. There is a new town-house -built like that at Chester. The common people speak the Welsh. The -gentry are well-bred, hospitable, generous and open-hearted: the -females are generally handsome. I took a great deal of pleasure in -hearing the natives talk in their own language, and remarked a great -many words among them still retained in our country of Lincolnshire -Holland: it is probable enough that our fens and morasses might be a -long security to us against the Saxons, as it had been to them against -the Romans. I shall give instances of a few words. When we put oatmeal -into water-gruel or milk, we call it _lithing_ the pot: the same is -signified by the Welsh word _llith_. Davis thinks the English _slide_ -comes from the British _llithro_, _labi_: we call it _slither_. A -_bull-beggar_, or _boggleboe_, is manifestly the British _bwbach_, -with all its synonymes. A top we call a _whirligig_, purely British. -We say a _whisking_ fellow, dexterous, ready: British _gwisgi_, To -_whyne_; British _gwynio_. Very many such like occur in Dr. Skinner’s -_Etymologicum_, which he would fain persuade us the Welsh learnt from -the Saxons, but without reason. We passed by the valley upon the river -Dee, where was the famous British monastery in early times, whereof -Pelagius was abbot, whose British name was Morgan; but no remains -discernible. What some talk concerning it, probably the vestiges of -the Roman city; for many foundations, coins, and antiquities have been -dug up; and not long since two gates of the city were left. We entered -Shropshire, passing by Ellsmere and Wem to Newport, where is a noble -foundation for a school well endowed by William Adams esq; to the value -of 7000l. over the door is this distich, _in fundatorem_: - - _Scripsisti heredem patriam tibi quæ dedit ortum, - Scriberis ergo tuæ, jure, pater patriæ._ - -he gave 550l. towards building the town-house. - - -[Sidenote: +Royal Oak.+] - -Presently entering Staffordshire, we came into the Watling-street, laid -very broad and deep with gravel not yet worn out, where it goes over -commons and moors. It is raised a good height above the soil, and so -strait, that upon an eminence you may see it ten or twenty miles before -you, and as much behind, over many hill-tops answering one the other as -a visto of trees. Here and there, between one Roman town and another, -you meet with the remains of an old fort or guard-place. We lodged -at an inn called Ivesey bank, on the borders between Staffordshire -and Shropshire. About a mile off, in a large wood, stands Boscobel -house, where the Pendrils lived, who preserved king Charles II. after -Worcester fight, and famous for the Royal Oak. The grand-daughter of -that William Pendril still lives in the house. The floor of the garret -(which is a popish chapel) being matted, prevents any suspicion of a -little cavity with a trap-door over the stair-case, where the king was -hid: his bed was artfully placed behind some wainscot that shut up very -close. A bow-shot from the house, just by a horse-track passing through -the wood, stood the Royal Oak into which the king, and his companion -colonel Carlos, climbed by means of the hen-roost ladder, when they -judged it no longer safe to stay in the house; the family reaching them -victuals with the nut-hook. It happened (as they related it to us) -that whilst these two were in the tree, a party of the enemy’s horse, -sent to search the house, came whistling and talking along this road: -when they were just under the tree, an owl flew out of a neighbouring -tree, and hovered along the ground as if her wings were broke, which -the soldiers merrily pursued without any circumspection. The tree is -now inclosed within a brick wall, the inside whereof is covered with -laurel; of which we may say, as Ovid did of that before the Augustan -palace, _mediamque tuebere quercum_. The oak is, in the middle, almost -cut away by travellers whose curiosity leads them to see it: close by -the side grows a young thriving plant from one of its acorns. The king, -after the restoration, reviewing the place, carried some of the acorns, -and set them in St. James’s park, or garden, and used to water them -himself: he gave this Pendril an estate of about 200l. per annum, which -still remains among them. Over the door of the inclosure I took this -inscription cut in marble. - - _Felicissimam arborem quam in asylum - potentissimi regis Caroli II. Deus O. M. - per quem reges regnant hic crescere - voluit, tam in perpetuam rei tantæ memoriam, - quam specimen firmæ in reges - fidei, muro cinctam posteris commendant - Basilius & Jana Fitzherbert. - Quercus amica Jovi._ - -[Sidenote: +Pennocrucium.+] - -Entering Staffordshire, we went along the Watling-street by Stretton -and Water-Eaton: where a brook crosses the road was the _Pennocrucium_ -of the Romans, as mentioned in the Itinerary of Antoninus. A little way -off is Penkridge, which no doubt retains somewhat of the ancient name. - -[Sidenote: +Litchfield.+] - -[Sidenote: +Etocetum.+] - -Litchfield is a city neat enough. The cathedral is a very handsome -pile, with numerous statues in niches at the front, which appears very -majestic half a mile off, there being two high spires, and another -higher in the middle of the cross. The rebels intirely ruined all the -ornament of the inside, with the brass inscriptions, tombs, &c. and -were going to pull down the whole fabric for sale. It is built in the -middle of a bog for security, and held out some fierce attacks for -king Charles I. This was made a metropolitical see by the potent king -Offa. St. Ceadda lived an eremitical life here by the spring near -Stow church. This town arose from the ruin of the Roman _Etocetum_, -a mile off, where the Rickning and Watling streets cross, now called -Chesterfield wall, from some reliques of its fortifications: it stands -high: the Rickning street is very visible southward, passing within a -mile of Fotherby, and so to a park in Sutton Colfield, Warwickshire; -thence to Bromicham. Castle hill, two miles hence above Stone hall, -is a camp, the port eastward. A mile and half from Wall is West-wall, -a camp; and Knaves-castle, near the Watling-street, probably a guard -upon the road: it is a circle of twenty yards diameter, with a square -in the middle, three or four yards broad, with a breast-work about -it: the whole is inclosed with three ditches: it stands in a large -common. This Rickning is all along called by Dr. Plot _Icknilway_, but -injuriously, and tends only to the confusion of things; I suppose, to -favour his _Iceni_ in this country; which notion is but chimerical. We -passed through Tamworth, pleasantly situated in a plain watered by the -river Tame, which divides it into two counties: it was the residence of -the Mercian kings, and has been secured by a _vallum_ and ditch quite -round. Here died the noble lady Elfleda, daughter of king Alfred, queen -of the Mercian kingdom, anno 919. This town, by William the Conqueror, -was given to the Marmyons, who built the castle here, hereditary -champions to the kings of England; from whom that office descended to -the Dymokes of Lincolnshire. We went through Bosworth over the field -where Henry VII. won the kingdom by a bold and well-timed battle. - - Boston, Dec. 1713. - - - - - ITER SABRINIUM. IV. - - _O mitte mirari beatæ - Fumum, & opes, strepitumque Romæ._ +Hor.+ - - - _To_ TANCRED ROBINSON, _M. D._ &c. - -To you, Sir, that have visited the boasted remains of Italy, and -other transmarine parts, it would seem presumptuous to offer the -trifle of the following letter, were I not sufficiently apprized of -your great humanity and candour, which prompts you to encourage even -the blossoms of commendable studies. You, that have made an intimate -search, and happily obtained a thorough insight into Nature, consider -that she proceeds regularly by successive gradations from little -things to greater. The acquisition of any part of science is owing -to a conversation with its elements and first principles, whose very -simplicity renders them not disagreeable. - -These pages were memoradums I took in a summer’s journey with our -friend Mr. Roger Gale. This being my first expedition since I came -to live at London, I design as early as possible to commemorate the -felicity I enjoyed thereby of your acquaintance, and the opportunity of -observing the noble character you sustain, of possessing all the wisdom -that ancient or modern learning can give us without vanity, and that -the physician, the scholar, and the gentleman, meet in you. - -[Sidenote: +Bibroci.+] - -I observe, in Berkshire, a river called Ock, running in the north side -of the county by Abingdon into the Thames, which in the Celtic language -signifies sharp or swift, or perhaps water in general: this is in Oke -hundred. In the south side of the county is the town of Okeingham. -These seem plainly remnants of the old name of the inhabitants of this -country, _Bibroci_, not yet observed. Near Reading is Laurence-Waltham, -which has been Roman: there is a field called Castle-field, and vast -numbers of coins found. By it is Sunning, once an episcopal see. From -London to Maidenhead it is a gravelly soil; then a marly chalk begins. - -[Sidenote: +Reading.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XXVI.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XXIII.] - -Reading is a large and populous town upon the fall of the Kennet into -the Thames; in the angle of which it stands upon a rising ground, -overlooking the meadows, which have a fine appearance all along the -rivers. There are three churches, built of flint and square stone in -the _quincunx_ fashion, with tall towers of the same. Arch-bishop Laud -was born here. The abbey stood in a charming situation: large ruins -of it still visible, built of flint; the walls about eight foot thick -at present, though the stone that faced them be pillaged away: the -remainder is so hard cemented, that it is not worth while to separate -them: many remnants of arched vaults a good height above ground, -whereon stood, as I suppose, the hall, lodgings, &c. there is one large -room about sixteen yards broad, and twenty-eight long, semi-circular -towards the east end, with five narrow windows, three doors towards the -west, and three windows over them: it was arched over, and seems to -have supported a chapel, in which we fancy king Henry I. was buried -with his queen: he founded this abbey upon an old one, that had been -formerly erected by a Saxon lady. There are the remains of bastions, -part of the fortifications, when garrisoned by the parliament army in -the civil wars: the abbey gate-house is yet pretty intire. Here was a -famous old castle, but long since demolished, perhaps originally Roman. -Near the trench the Danes made between the river Kennet and the Thames, -is Catsgrove hill, a mile off Reading: in digging there they find first -a red gravel, clay, chalk, flints, and then a bed of huge petrified -oysters five yards thick, twenty foot below the surface: these shells -are full of sea sand.[45] Dr. Plot, in _Oxfordshire_, p. 119. who -supposes these appearances only the sports of Nature, solves this -matter after a way that will induce one to think his cause reduced to -extremity. On the right hand, just beyond Theal, is Inglefield, where -king Ethelwolf routed the Danes. - -[Illustration: 26 _Ruins of Reding Abby Augᵗ. 14. 1721._ - - _Neustrius Henricus situs hic, Inglorius urna nunc jacet ejectus, - tumulum novus advena quærit Frustra_——] - -[Illustration: 23 GATEHOUSES - - _Reading Abby Gatehouse. 14 Aug 1721_ - - _The College Gate at Worcester. 30 Aug 1721_ - - _Stukeley delin._ _I Harris Sculp._] - -[Illustration: 60 Ad SPINAS - - _Prospect of_ Newberry _from the South between_ Winchester _and_ - Silchester _Road_ - _Iun. 28, 1723. Stukeley del_: - - _A._ _Icening Street._ - _B._ _Donington Castle._ - _C._ _Way to Winchester._ - _D._ _Speen._] - -[Illustration: 10·2ᵈ. +Spinae+ - _Iun 28 1723_ - -_Stukeley delin._ _Parker Sculpᵗ._] - -[Illustration: 62 - - _Cunetio_ - _Castrum_ - _6 July. 1723_ - _Algernonio Com de Hartford d.d. W. Stukeley._ - - _Stukeley delin._] - -[Illustration: 63 _Prospect of_ Marlborough _from the South. 29 Iun - 1723._ CVNETIO. - - A. _Marlborough Mount._ B. _the Road to Kennet._ C. _the Castle._ D. - _Sᵗ. Peters Church._ E. _Sᵗ. Marys._ F. _the Road to Ramsbury._ G. - _the Kennet._ H. _the remains of the Roman Castrum._ I. _Lady - Winchilseas._ K. _Preshute._ - - _Stukeley, del._] - -[Illustration: 11·2ᵈ. +Cunetio+ - _29 Iun. 1723_ - - _Stukeley delin._ _Parker Sculpᵗ._] - -[Sidenote: +Ad Spinam.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. LX.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. X. 2d Vol.] - -A little west of Newberry is a village called Speen; which has given -antiquarians a reasonable hint of looking for the town, in Antoninus -called _ad Spinas_, hereabouts; and doubtless it was where now stands -the north part of the town of Newberry, still called Spinham. At this -place the great Icening-street road, coming from the Thames at Goring, -and another Roman road running hence through Speen to Hungerford, and -so to Marlborough, crosses the Kennet river. Newberry has derived -itself and name from the ruins of the old one; and the grounds -thereabouts are called Spinham lands. Dunington castle was once in -the possession of Geffrey Chaucer. A remarkable large oak, venerable -through many ages, because it bore his name, was felled in the civil -wars. The Kennet, still called by the country people Cunnet, near -Hungerford, parts the soil, that on the north side being a red clay -gravel, that on the south a chalk. I have often wished that a map of -soils was accurately made, promising to myself that such a curiosity -would furnish us with some new notions of geography, and of the theory -of the earth, which has only hitherto been made from hypotheses. -This brings into my mind a remarkable passage in Sir Robert Atkins’s -_Glocestershire_: “Lay a line (says he) from the mouth of the Severn to -Newcastle, and so quite round the terrestrial globe, and coal is to be -found every where near that line, and scarce any where else.”[46] - -[Sidenote: +Cunetio.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. LXII. LXIII.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XI. 2d vol.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. I.] - -From Newberry the Roman road (I believe coming from Silchester) passes -east and west to Marlborough, the Roman _Cunetio_,[47] named from the -river. This town consists chiefly of one broad and strait street, and -for the most part upon the original ground-plot; nor does it seem -unlikely that the narrow piazza continued all along the sides of the -houses is in imitation of them: the square about the church in the -eastern part one may imagine the site of a temple fronting this street: -to the south are some reliques of a priory: the gate-house is left: on -the north has been another religious house, whereof the chapel remains, -now turned into a dwelling-house. Where now is the seat of my lord -Hartford was the site of the Roman _castrum_, for they find foundations -and Roman coins; I saw one of Titus in large brass: but towards the -river, and without my lord’s garden-walls, is one angle of it left -very manifestly, the rampart and ditch intire: the road going over the -bridge cuts it off from the limits of the present castle: the ditch -is still twenty foot broad in some part: it passed originally on the -south of the summer-house, and so along the garden-wall, where it makes -the fence, to the turn of the corner: the mark of it is still apparent -broader than the ditch, which has been repaired since, but of narrower -dimension: then I suppose it went through the garden by the southern -foot of the mount, and round the house through the court-yard, where -I have marked the track thereof with pricked lines in Plate 62. There -is a spring in the ditch, so that the foss of the _castrum_ was always -full of water. I suppose it to have been five hundred Roman feet square -within, and the Roman road through the present street of Marlborough -went by the side of it. Afterward, in Saxon or Norman times, they built -a larger castle, upon the same ground, after their model, and took in -more compass for the mount; which obliged the road to go round it with -a turn, till it falls in again on the west side of the mount at the -bounds of Preshute parish. Roman coins have been found in shaping the -mount; which was the keep of the later castle, and now converted into -a pretty spiral walk, on the top of which is an octagonal summer-house -represented Tab. I. This neighbouring village, Preshute, has its name -from the meadows the church stands in, which are very low: in the -windows upon a piece of glass is written, DNS RICHARDUS HIC VICARIUS, -who I believe lived formerly in a little house at Marlborough, -over-against the castle, now an ale-house, where his name is cut in -wood in the same old letters over the door. - -[Sidenote: +Leucomagus.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. LXIV.] - -Great Bedwin I take to be the _Leucomagus_ of Ravennas; for that -and the present name signify the same thing, viz. the white town, -the soil being chalk: he there places it just before Marlborough, -_cunetzione_. We saw near it the continuation of Wansdike. This town -is an old corporation: in it the famous Dr. Tho. Willis, the ornament -of our faculty, was born. In the church lies the monument of a knight -cross-legged; on his shield, barry of six argent and gules, an orle of -martlets sable; over all three escallops of the first on a bend of the -third. Upon a stone in brass in the choir, - - _Bellocampus eram graja genetrice semerus - Tres habui natos, est quibus una soror._ - -Here lyeth the body of John Seymour, son and heyre of Sir John Seymour -and of Margery oon of the doughters of Henry Wentworth knyght, which -decesed the xv day of July the yer of our lord M. D. X. on whose soul -Ihu have mercy, and of your charity say a _pater nostr_ and a _ave_. - -_Hic jacet dns Thomas Dageson quondam vicarius istius ecclesie qui -obiit 7. die Decemb. Aᵒ dni._ M.D.I. _cujus anime propitietur deus -amen_. on a brass in the middle aile. - -_Roger de Stocre chev. ici gycht deu de sa alme eyt merci._ in the -south transept. - -The town arms are, a man standing in a castle, with a sword in his -hand. Castle copse, south-east from the town about half a mile, as much -from Wansdike, containing about fourteen acres, seems the old Roman -castle. Howisdike I suppose a camp upon an eminence and in an angle -made by the Wansdike. They showed us a brass town gallon, from the -Winchester standard, given by my lord Nottingham. In the east window -of this church some time since was the picture of a priest with -two crutches, a cup in his hand, and a cann standing by him, with -this inscription, which Mr. le Neve Norroy gave me: he transcribed it -out of an old MS. now in the library of Holkham in Norfolk, formerly -Sir Ed. Coke’s book; and for its antiquity I think it not unworthy of -mentioning. - -[Illustration: 1 Rural Curiosity. - - _Marlborough Mount_ - - _Cascade at Wilton._ - - _Dedicated to the Right Honorable the Lady Hartford._] - -[Illustration: 3 _View of Lord_ Hartfords House _at_ Marlborough _29 - Iun. 1723._ A. _the scite of the Roman Castrum_ B. _Sᵗ. Peters._ - - _Stukeley del_:] - -[Illustration: 64 _View of_ Great Bedwin & Wansdike _2 Iuly. 1723._ - +Leucomagus.+ - - _Stukeley del._] - - *G SU PERIS APELE VIKERE DE SET EGLISE - SU MA POTENTE SU APUE TOT EN TELE GYSE - MON HANAP AY EN POYNE E BEVEREI SANS FEINTISE - MON POT A MON DERER MISS E LA NOVELE GYISE - DE MON POT E MON HANAP SEREY JUSTICE - KE NUL NI BEYVE SANS NE Y AY M ATENTE MISE.* - - _G su Peris apele vikere de set eglise - Su ma potente su apue tot en tele gyse - Mon hanap ay en poyne e beverei sans feintise - Mon pot a mon derer miss e la novele gyise - De mon pot e mon hanap serey justice - Ke nul ni beyve sans ne y ay m atente mise._ - -In modern French, - - _Je suis Peris appellé vicaire de cette eglise - Sur ma potence suis appuié tout en tell guise - Mon hanap enpoigne & boirai sans feintise - Mon pot a mon derriere mis a la nouvelle guise - De mon pot & mon hanap serai justice - Que nul ne boive sans que n’y ai m’autant mis._ - -In English, - - I am Peris call’d, vicar of this church, - Upon my crutches leaning just in this wise; - My pouch in my fist, and I’ll drink without guile; - My pot at my back set after the new mode: - To my pot and my pouch I will have justice done, - For none shall drink without putting in as much again. - -We were entertained at Wilton, the noble seat of the great earl of -Pembroke; and deservedly may I style it the School of Athens. The -glories of this place I shall endeavour to rehearse in a separate -discourse. - -Crekelade, probably a Roman town upon the Thames; for from this a -very plain Roman road runs to Cirencester. Much has been the dispute -formerly about a fancied university in this place, and the little town -in its neighbourhood _Latin_, which it would be senseless only to -repeat. The word _Crekelade_ is derived from the cray-fishes in the -river: _Lade_ is no more than a water-course, but more especially such -a one as is made by art;[48] and we here find the river pent up for a -long way together by factitious banks, in order the better to supply -their mills: so _Latin_ is no more than _ladeings_, or the meadows -where these channels run. Ledencourt, near Newent, Glocestershire, I -suppose, acknowledges the like original; and many more. The town of -Lechelade falls under the same predicament: _leche_ signifies a watery -place subject to inundations; as Leach, a town near Boston before -mentioned, anciently written _Leche_: as Camden says of Northleach, p. -240. and Litchfield hence fetches its etymology from the marshy bog -that environs the church, rather than the superstitious notion there -current. Not far hence are two towns called Sarney and Sarncote, from -the Roman causeway; _sarn_ in Welsh importing a paved way. There is -another upon the same road between Cirencester and Glocester. - -[Sidenote: +Corinium.+ Dobunorum] - -Cirencester was anciently the _Corinium_ of the Romans, a great and -populous city, built upon the intersection of this road we have been -traveling, and the great Foss road going to the Bath: it was inclosed -with walls and a ditch of a vast compass, which I traced quite round. -Under the north-east side of the wall runs the river Churn, whence the -names of the town: the foundation of the wall is all along visible; the -ditch is so where that is quite erased. - - ————_sic omnia fatis - In pejus ruere ac retro sublapsa referri._ +Virg. G. i.+ - -A great part of the ground comprehended within this circuit is now -pasture, corn-fields, or converted into gardens, beside the site of -the present town. Here they dig up antiquities every day, especially -in the gardens; and in the plain fields, the track of foundations of -houses and streets are evident enough. Here are found many Mosaic -pavements, rings, intaglia’s, and coins innumerable, especially in -one great garden called _lewis_ grounds, which signifies in British a -palace, _llys_. I suppose it was the _prætorium_, or head magistrate’s -quarters. Large quantities of carved stones are carried off yearly in -carts, to mend the highways, besides what are useful in building. A -fine Mosaic pavement dug up here Sept. 1723. with many coins. I bought -a little head which has been broke off from a _basso relievo_, and -seems by the _tiara_, of a very odd shape, like fortification work, to -have been the genius of a city, or some of the _deæ matres_, which are -in old inscriptions, such like in Gruter, p. 92. The gardener told me -he had lately found a fine little brass image, I suppose one of the -_lares_; but, upon a diligent scrutiny, his children had played it -away. Mr. Richard Bishop, owner of the garden, on a hillock near his -house, dug up a vault sixteen foot long and twelve broad, supported -with square pillars of Roman brick three foot and a half high; on it -a strong floor of terras: there are now several more vaults near it, -on which grow cherry-trees like the hanging gardens of Babylon. I -suppose these the foundations of a temple; for in the same place they -found several stones of the shafts of pillars six foot long, and bases -of stone near as big in compass as his summer-house adjoining (as he -expressed himself): these, with cornices very handsomely moulded and -carved with modilions, and the like ornaments, were converted into -swine-troughs: some of the stones of the bases were fastened together -with cramps of iron, so that they were forced to employ horses to -draw them asunder; and they now lie before the door of his house as -a pavement: capitals of these pillars were likewise found, and a -crooked cramp of iron ten or twelve foot long, which probably was for -the architraves of a circular portico. A Mosaic pavement near it, and -intire, is now the floor of his privy vault. Mr. Aubury in his MS. -coll. says an hypocaust was here discovered; and Mr. Tho. Pigot, fellow -of Wadham, wrote a description thereof. Sometimes they dig up little -stones, as big as a shilling, with stamps on them: I conjecture they -are counterfeit dies to cast money in. - -[Illustration: 32 _The White Fryers in_ Glocester _Aug. 24. 1721._ - - Browne Willys _Ar. Reliquias sacras d. d. Wˢ. Stukeley_. - - _Stukeley delin._ _E. Kirkall sculp:_] - -[Illustration: 12·2ᵈ. +Glevvm+] - -We saw a monumental inscription upon a stone at Mr. Isaac Tibbot’s, in -Castle-street, in very large letters four inches long: - - D — M - IVLIAE CASTAE - CONIVGI — VIX - ANN — XXXIII. - -It was found at a place half a mile west of the town, upon the north -side of the Foss road, called _Quern_ from the quarries of stone -thereabouts. Five such stones lay flatwise upon two walls in a row, -end to end; and underneath were the corpses of that family, as we may -suppose. He keeps Julia Casta’s skull in his summer-house; but people -have stole all her teeth out for _amulets_ against the ague. Another of -the stones serves for a table in his garden: it is handsomely squared, -five foot long and three and a half broad, without an inscription. -Another of them is laid for a bridge over a channel near the cross in -Castle-street. There were but two of them which had inscriptions: the -other inscription perished, being unluckily exposed to the wet in a -frosty season: probably, of her husband. Several urns have been found -thereabouts, being a common burying place: I suppose them buried here -after christianity. In the church, which is a very handsome building -of the style of St. Mary’s at Cambridge, are a great many ancient -brass inscriptions and figures: the windows are full of good painted -glass: there is a fine lofty tower. Little of the abbey is now left, -beside two old gate-houses neither large nor good: the circuit of it is -bounded for a good way by the city walls. East of the town about a a -quarter of a mile, is a mount or barrow called Starbury, where several -gold Roman coins have been dug up, of about the time of Julian, which -we saw: some people ploughing in the field between it and the town, -south of the hill, took up a stone coffin with a body in it covered -with another stone. West of the town, behind my lord Bathurst’s garden, -is another mount, called Grismunds or Gurmonds, of which several fables -are told: probably raised by the Danes when they laid siege to this -place. - -[Sidenote: +Glevum.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB XXXII.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XII. 2d Vol.] - -Hence our journey lay by Stretton over the continuation of the Roman -road from Crekelade, which appears with a very high ridge and very -strait for eight miles, to Birdlip hill, prodigiously steep and rocky -to the north-west, till we came to Glocester, a colony of the Romans. -The old proverb, “As sure as God’s at Glocester,” surely meant the vast -number of churches and religious foundations here; for you can scarce -walk past ten doors but somewhat of that sort occurs. The western part -of the cathedral is old and mean; but from the tower, which is very -handsome, you have a most glorious prospect eastward through the choir -finely vaulted at top, and the Lady’s chapel, to the east window, which -is very magnificent: here, on the north side, lies that unfortunate -king, Edward II. and out of the abundance of pious offerings to his -remains, the religious built this choir: before the high altar in the -middle thereof lies the equally unfortunate prince Robert, eldest -son of William the Conqueror, after a miserable life: but he rests -quietly in his grave; which cannot be said of his younger brother, -Henry I. before spoken of at Reading abbey: he has a wooden tomb over -him, painted with his coats of arms, and upon it his effigies, in -Irish oak, cross-legged like a Jerusalem knight. The cloysters in this -cathedral are beautiful, beyond any thing I ever saw, in the style of -King’s-college chapel in Cambridge. Nothing could ever have made me so -much in love with Gothic architecture (as called); and I judge, for -a gallery, library, or the like, it is the best manner of building; -because the idea of it is taken from a walk of trees, whose branching -heads are curiously imitated by the roof. There are large remains of -several abbeys of black and white friers, &c. I saw this distich cut in -wood over an old door of a house: - - *Cum ruinosa domus quondam quam tunc renovavit - Monachus Urbanus Osborn John rite vocavit.* - -This city abounds much with crosses and statues of the kings of -England, and has a handsome prospect of steeples, some without a -church. Here are several market-houses supported with pillars; among -the rest a very old one of stone, Gothic architecture, uncommon and -ancient, now turned into a cistern for water. A mile or two distant -from the city is a very pleasant hill, called Robin Hood’s: I suppose -it may have been the rendezvous of youth formerly to exercise -themselves in archery upon festivals, as now a walk for the citizens. -By this city, the _Glevum_ of the Romans, the Ricning-street way runs -from the mouth of the Severn into Yorkshire. I have nothing new as to -its Roman antiquities; and since that is out of dispute, I hasten to -Worcester. - -[Sidenote: +Branonium.+] - -It was anciently called _Branonium_, which the Welsh corrupted into -_Wrangon_, prefixing _Caer_, as was their method; and thence our -_Worcester_: it signifies the city _ad frontem aquæ_. The commandery -here, formerly belonging to St. John’s of Jerusalem, is now possessed -by the hospitable My. Wylde: it is a fine old house of timber in the -form of a court: the hall makes one side thereof, roofed with Irish -oak: the windows adorned with imagery and coats armorial of stained -glass: built for the reception of pilgrims: it stands just without the -south gate of the city in the London road, where the heat of the famous -battle happened between king Charles II. and Oliver Cromwell. Digging -in the garden they frequently find the bones of the slain. Above, in -the park, is to be seen a great work, of four bastions, called the -Royal Mount, whence a _vallum_ and ditch runs both ways to encompass -this side of the city. Here I suppose the storm began, when the -Royalists were driven back into the city with great slaughter; and the -king escaped being made a prisoner in the narrow street at this gate -(as they say) by a loaded cart of hay purposely overthrown; by that -means he had time to retire at the opposite gate to an old house called -White Ladys, being formerly a nunnery in possession of the family of -Cookseys, where he left his gloves and garters, which a descendant of -that family, of the same name, now keeps. The chapel of this nunnery -is standing, and has some painted saints upon the wall of one end. A -mile and half above the south gate, on the top of the hill, is the -celebrated Perry wood, where Oliver Cromwell’s army lay. - -[Sidenote: TAB. XVIII.] - -The collegiate church is stately enough: in it is buried the restless -king John; not where now his monument stands in the choir before the -high altar, but under a little stone before the altar of the eastermost -wall of the church; on each side him, upon the ground, lie the effigies -of the two holy bishops and his chief saints Wolstan and Oswald, from -whose vicinity he hoped to be safe from harm: the image of the king -likewise I suppose formerly lay here upon the ground, now elevated -upon a tomb in the choir as aforesaid. There is a large and handsome -stone chapel over the monument of prince Arthur, son of Henry VII. on -the south side of the high altar. The cloysters are very perfect, and -the chapter-house is large, supported, as to its arched roof, with -one umbilical pillar: it is now become a library well furnished, -and has a good many old manuscripts. There is a large old gate-house -standing, and near it the castle, with a very high artificial mount or -keep nigh the river. We met here with an odd instance of a prodigious -memory, in a person the powers of whose soul are run out (as we may -speak) intirely into that one; for otherwise his capacity is very weak: -if we name any passage in the whole Bible, he will immediately tell you -what book, chapter, and verse, it is in; a truly living concordance. -Here are a great many churches, and in good repair: one steeple is -octangular, another is remarkable for its lofty spire. A large bridge -of six arches over the beautiful Severn, enriched on both sides with -pleasant meadows. This is a large city, very populous and busy, and -affords several fine prospects, particularly from Perry wood. No doubt -but this was a Roman city; yet we could find no remains, but a place in -it called Sidbury, which seems to retain from its name some memorial of -that sort. - -[Illustration: 18 _King_ Johns _Monument before the Altar in Worcester - Choir._ - - _Præhonorabili Dⁿᵒ. Eduardo Dⁿᵒ. Harley bonarum Artium - cultori & fautori Tabula votiva._ - - _J. Pine sculp._ _W. Stukeley designat_] - -[Illustration: 85 +Ariconivm+ - _9ᵗʰ. Sept. 1721._ - - _Tempus edax Rerum Tuqᵤₑ Invidiosa Vetustas - Omnia destruitis. Vitiataqᵤₑ dentibus Ævi - Paulatim lenta consumitis Omnia Morte._ - +Ov.+ - - Jacobo Hill Ar. J. C. Vicinæ Civitatis formam consecrat W. Stukeley. - - _Stukeley delin._] - -[Sidenote: +Ypocessa.+] - -[Sidenote: +Salinis.+] - -[Sidenote: +Malvern.+] - -A Roman road goes hence along the river to Upton, where antiquities are -dug up, (I take it for _Ypocessa_ of Ravennas) and so to Tewksbury, -where it meets with the Ricning-street way. A little below Worcester -a river called Teme falls into the Severn; and many other synonymous -rivers there are in England, beside the great Thames, which shows it -a common name to rivers in the old Celtic language, and the same with -the Greek Ποταμος, the first syllable cut off. A little above, a river -called Saltwarp falls into the Severn from Droitwich, a Roman town, -which occurs too in Ravennas under the name of _Salinis_; and they -still make salt at the place. From hence I made an excursion to Great -Malvern, a considerable priory at the bottom of a prodigious hill of -that name: the church is very large and beautiful, with admirable -painted glass in all the windows, and several old monuments: upon a -stone now in the body of the church, but taken from without the south -side in a garden, which was anciently the south wing, this. - - PHILOSOPHVS DIGNVS BONVS ASTROLOGVS LOTHERING, - VIR PIVS AC HVMILIS MONACHVS PRIOR HVIVS OVILIS - HAC IACET IN CISTA GEOMETRICVS AC ABACISTA - DOCTOR WALCHERVS FLET PLEBS DOLET VNDIQ. CLERVS - HVIC LVX PRIMA MORI DEDIT OCTOBRIS SENIORI - VIVAT UT IN CELIS EXORET QVISQ. FIDELIS M. C. XXXV.[49] - -there is a carved stone image, by the south wall of the choir, of -very rude and ancient workmanship: it is a knight covered with mail -and his surcoat; in his right hand a halbert like a pick-axe, in his -left a round target. Here are many coats of arms and cognizances upon -a glazed sort of brick; such I have seen at other places. A handsome -gate-house is left, and from the houses in the town you command a very -noble prospect over Worcester, as far as Edghill, as they tell us: it -is thought the Malvern has metals in its bowels. We diverted ourselves, -as we rode through Dean forest, with a house after the primitive style, -built round an oak tree, whose branches are still green with leaves. -Vide Vitruv. L. II. C. I. Two thousand years ago, one would have -suspected it to be a Druid’s. - -[Sidenote: +Ariconium.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. LXXXV.] - -[Sidenote: +Credonhill.+ Br. _camp_.] - -[Sidenote: +Sutton walls.+ Ro. _camp_.] - -The city of Hereford probably sprung up from the ruin of the Roman -_Ariconium_, now Kenchester, three miles off, higher up the river -Wye, but not very near it; which may be a reason for its decay. -Ariconium stands upon a little brook called the Ine, which thence -encompassing the walls of Hereford falls into the Wye. Two great -Roman ways here cross each other: one called the Port-way comes from -_Bullæum_, now Buelt, in Radnorshire; passing eastward by Kenchester, -through Stretton, over the river Lug, to Stretton Grantham upon the -Frome, it goes to Worcester: the other road comes from the south, and -Abergavenny, _Gobannium_, by Old town formerly _Blescium_; so by Dowre -a-cross the Golden vale and Archenfield to the river Wye, which it -passes at Eaton, where is a Roman camp for security, and a bridge for -convenience of the passage: thence it goes to Kenchester, so northwards -by Stretford: this Archenfield seems to retain the name of Ariconium. -Nothing remaining of its splendour, but a piece of a temple probably, -with a niche which is five foot high and three broad within, built of -Roman brick, stone, and indissoluble mortar: the figure of it is in -the fore-mentioned plate. There are many large foundations near it. -A very fine Mosaic floor a few years ago was found intire, soon torn -to pieces by the ignorant vulgar. I took up some remaining stones of -different colours, and several bits of fine potters ware of red earth. -Mr. Aubury in his manuscript notes says, anno 1670, old Roman buildings -of brick were discovered under-ground, on which oaks grew: the bricks -are of two sorts; some equilaterally square, seven or eight inches, and -one inch thick; some two foot square, and three inches thick. A bath -was here found by Sir John Hoskyns about seven foot square: the pipes -of lead intire; those of brick were a foot long, three inches square, -let artificially one into another: over these I suppose was a pavement. -This is an excellent invention for heating a room, and might well be -introduced among us in winter time. In another place is a hollow, where -burnt wheat has been taken up: some time since colonel Dantsey sent a -little box full of it to the Antiquarian Society. All around the city -you may easily trace the walls, some stones being left every where, -though overgrown by hedges and timber trees. The ground of the city is -higher than the level of the circumjacent country. There appears no -sign of a foss or ditch around it. The site of the place is a gentle -eminence of a squarish form; the earth black and rich, overgrown with -brambles, oak trees, full of stones, foundations, and cavities where -they have been digging. Many coins and the like have been found. Mr. -Ja. Hill, J. C. has many coins found here, some of which he gave to the -said society. Colonel Dantsey has paved a cellar with square bricks -dug up here: my lord Coningsby has judiciously adorned the floor of -his evidence-room with them. This city is overlooked and sheltered -towards the north with a prodigious mountain of steep ascent crowned -at the top with a vast camp, which ingirdles its whole _apex_ with -works altogether inaccessible: it is called Credon hill, seemingly -British: if you will take the pains to climb it, you are presented with -a most glorious and extensive prospect, as far as St. Michael’s mount -in Monmouthshire; bipartite at top, Parnassus-like, and of especial -fame and resort among the zealots of the Roman creed, who think this -holy hill was sent hither by St. Patrick out of Ireland, and has -wonderful efficacy in several cases. On the other hand you see the vast -black mountain separating Brecknockshire from this county: the city -Ariconium underneath appears like a little copse. On the other side -of the Wye you see Dinder hill, whereon is a Roman camp: and upon the -Lug are Sutton walls, another vast Roman camp upon a hill overtopping -a beautiful vale, the royal mansion of the most potent king Offa, -but most notorious for the execrable murder of young king Ethelbert, -allured thither under pretext of courting his daughter, and buried in -the adjacent church of Marden, situate in a marsh by the river side: -hence his body was afterwards conveyed to Hereford and enshrined; but -the particular place we cannot find. I suppose this martyr’s merits -were obliterated by the succeeding saint, Cantilupe, the great -miracle-monger on this side the kingdom, as his tutor and namesake -Thomas Becket was in Kent. - -[Sidenote: +Hereford.+] - -In the north wing of the cathedral of Hereford is the shrine where -Cantilupe was buried, and which wing he himself built: his picture -is painted on the wall: all around are the marks of hooks where the -banners, lamps, reliques, and the like presents, were hung up in his -honour; and, no doubt, vast were the riches and splendor which filled -this place; and it is well guarded and barricadoed to prevent thieves -from making free with his superfluities: the shrine is of stone, carved -round with knights in armour; for what reason I know not, unless -they were his life-guard. I saw a book, printed at St. Omar’s, of no -little bulk, which contained an account of his miracles. The church -is very old and stately, the roof, ailes, and chapel, have been added -to the more ancient part by succeeding bishops, as also the towers, -cloysters, &c. The most beautiful chapter-house of a decagonal form, -and having an umbilical pillar, was destroyed in the civil wars. I -saw its poor remains, whence I endeavoured to restore the whole in -drawing as well as I could, from the symmetry and manner of the fabric, -which I guess to be about Henry the Sixth’s time: there are about four -windows now standing, and the springing of the stone arches between, of -fine rib-work, which composed the roof; of that sort of architecture -wherewith King’s-college chapel at Cambridge is built: two windows were -pulled down, a very little while ago, by bishop Bisse, which he used -in new fitting up the episcopal palace: under the windows in every -compartment was painted a king, bishop, saint, virgin, or the like; -some I found distinct enough, though so long exposed to the weather. -Here are the greatest number of monuments of the bishops I ever saw, -many valuable brasses and tombs, one of Sir Richard Penbrug, knight of -the garter, which I drew out for Mr. Anstis: in our Lady’s chapel, now -the library, a fine brass of Isabella the wife of Richard Delamare, ob. -1421. Between the cathedral and episcopal palace is a most venerable -pile, exceeding it in date, as I conjecture from its manner of -composure; built intirely of stone, roofed with stone: it consists of -two chapels, one above the other: the ground-plot is a perfect square, -beside the portico and choir: four pillars in the middle, with arches -every way, form the whole: the portico seems to have a grandeur in -imitation of Roman works, made of many arches retiring inwards: two -pillars on each side consist of single stones: the lowermost chapel, -which is some steps under ground, is dedicated to St. Catharine, the -upper to St. Magdalen, and has several pillars against the wall, made -of single stones, and an odd eight-square cupola upon the four middle -pillars: there have been much paintings upon the walls: the arched roof -is turned very artfully, and seems to have a taste of that kind of -architecture used in the declension of the Roman empire. - -The city of Hereford stands upon a fine gravel, encompassed with -springs and rivulets, as well as strong walls, towers, and lunettes; -all which, with the embattlements, are pretty perfect, and enabled them -to withstand a most vigorous siege of the Scots army under general -Lesley. The castle was a noble work, built by one of the Edwards before -the Conquest, strongly walled about, and ditched: there is a very lofty -artificial keep, walled once at top, having a well in it faced with -good stone: by the side of the ditch arose a spring, which superstition -consecrated to St. Ethelbert: there is a handsome old stone arch -erected over it. Without the walls are the ruins of Black Friers -monastery, and a pretty stone cross intire; round which originally were -the cloysters built, as now the cloysters of the cathedral inclose -another such. These crosses were in the nature of a pulpit, whence a -monk preached to the people _sub dio_, as is now practised once a year -in the cloysters of some colleges in the universities; and I suppose -Paul’s cross in London was somewhat of this sort. There was likewise an -opulent priory, dedicated to our country saint, Guthlac of Crowland, -now intirely ruined: the situation of it in a marshy place best suited -him. White Friers on the other side the town is intirely ruined: a -gate-house and several other parts were seen by many now living. All -these religious conventions (as tradition goes) had subterraneous -passages into the city under the ditch, that the holy fraternities -might retire from the fury of war, upon occasion. - -In our way from Hereford to Leominster we ascended with some difficulty -the mighty Dynmaur hill, the meaning of which appellation is the great -hill: it makes us some amends for the tediousness of climbing, by the -extensive and pleasant prospect it affords us from its woody crest -commanding a vast horizon. - -[Sidenote: +Leominster.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XXII.] - -Leominster is a town of brisk trade in manufactures of their admirable -wool, in hat-making, leather, and many others; it lies in a valley -luxuriant above measure. Three rivers of very swift current go -through the town, besides others very near: nor will the industrious -inhabitants suffer the water-nymphs that preside over the streams to -be idle: for with mills, and machinery of various contrivance, they -make them subservient to many uses in the way of their trades. Here was -a considerable priory on the north-side of the church, two ailes of -which are very ancient, and I suppose belonged to the priory: two other -ailes of more lightsome work have been added. The mayor, who invited -us to attend him thither, had a long black _caduceus_ to walk withall, -tipped with silver. There are some poor remains of the priory, chiefly -a little chapel, which I imagine belonged to the prior’s family: -underneath it runs a pretty rivulet, which used to grind his corn, -now converted to a fulling-mill: near are very large ponds for fish, -to furnish the monks on fasting days. There was a fine gate-house, -pulled down not long since, near the Ambry close, denominated from the -place (Almery) in which they gave their scraps away to poor people -at the gate, as I have observed at several other religious houses: -this is reckoned a great argument of their charity, whilst idle folks -lost their time in waiting for it. Round the cross built of timber I -saw this inscription, _Vive deo gratus, toti mundo tumulatus, crimine -mundatus, semper transire paratus_, and some more stuff of that sort. -In this town the soil is luxuriant above measure: trees of all sorts -flourish prodigiously: we were surprised at the extravagant bulk of -plants, leaves of dock as big as an ordinary tea-table, comfry leaves -as long as my arm. Mr. Gale and I disputed a good while about borage -quite grown out of cognizance. - -We were entertained by my lord Coningsby at his seat of Hampton-court, -three miles off: at dinner time, one of the ancient bards in an -adjacent room played to us upon the harp, and at proper intervals threw -in many notes of his voice, with a swelling thrill, after a surprising -manner, much in the tone of a flute. This is a fine seat, built by our -countryman Harry of Bolingbroke, afterwards Henry the Fourth: it is, -castle like, situate in a valley, upon a rapid river under coverture -of Dynmaur: the gardens very pleasant, (the finest greens I ever saw) -terminated by vast woods covering all the sloping side of the hill; -whose wavy tops, when agitated by the wind, entertain the eye with a -most agreeable spectacle, and verdant theatric concavity, as high, -and as far, as you can well see. Here is a great command of water, -on all sides of the house, for fountains, basons, canals: within are -excellent pictures of the earl’s ancestors, and others, by the best -hands; Holbein, Dobson, Van Dyke, Sir P. Lely, &c. there is an original -of the founder, Henry the Fourth, of queen Elizabeth, of the duchess -of Portsmouth, &c. The windows of the chapel are well painted, some -images of the Coningsbys: here are two new stone stair-cases after a -geometrical method, with a view, I suppose, of security from fire: the -record-room is at top of a tower arched with stone, paved with Roman -brick; an iron door. From the top of the house goes a stair-case, -which they say has a subterraneous conveyance into Dynmaur wood; -which was the method of ancient times to escape the last extremity of -a siege. After dinner my lord did us the honour to ride out with us -into the park, which for beauty, diversity, and use, is very fine: it -is eight miles in circumference, and has all the variety of scenes -you can imagine; about 1200 head of deer in it: there are extensive -prospects, on one side reaching into Wiltshire; on another, over the -Welsh mountains; lawns, groves, canals, hills and plains. There is a -pool three quarters of a mile long, very broad, included between two -great woods: the dam that forms it across a valley, cost 800l. and -was made in a fortnight by 200 hands. There is a new river cut quite -through the park, the channel of which for a long way together is -hewn out of the rock: this stream enriches with derivative channels -vast tracts of land that before was barren. Here are new gardens and -canals laid out, and new plantations of timber in proper places to -complete its pleasures; warrens, decoys, sheep-walks, pastures for -cattle, and the like, intirely supply the house with all necessaries -and conveniences, without recourse to a market. His lordship showed us -in his study four or five vast books in manuscript, being transcripts -out of the record-offices, relating to his manors, royalties, estates -and muniments, which cost him 500l. in writing and fees: many of his -galleries and passages are adorned with the genealogy of his family, -their pictures, arms, grants, history, &c. The Roman road from -Ariconium to Uriconium lies west of Lemster by Stretford; then passes -over the Arrow, the Oney, the Lug; so through Biriton, two miles north -of Lemster, where they dig up the pavement of it, as it runs through -the grounds, made of squarish rag-stone. - -[Illustration: 22 +Religiou_s_ Ruin_s_+ - - _Remnant of the Priory of Leominster Sep. 14. 1722._ - - _Black Fryers in Glocester._ - _Aug. 24. 1721._ - - _Stukeley delin._ & Nobilissimo Thomæ Comiti de Coningsby DD. _E - Kirkall sculp._] - -[Sidenote: +Ludlow.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. IV. V.] - -Our next expedition was to Ludlow, a place of fame and antiquity, the -residence of the lords presidents of Wales under the prince. In the way -hither we found the _euonymus pannonicus_ in the hedges. This town is -walled quite round, and pretty strong, having five gates, situate upon -a hill-top, running from south-east with an ascent towards north-west, -on which, precipitous to the north and west, stands the castle. On -the south side runs the Teme, fettered with numerous dams across, in -nature of cataracts; by which means abundance of mills are turned: the -superfluous water pours over them, cascade-like, with a mighty noise. -Here is a very good church and handsome tower, with a pleasant ring of -six bells in the cross thereof: the windows are full of painted glass -pretty intire: there are some old monuments of the lords presidents, -&c. and an inscription upon the north wall of the choir relating to -prince Arthur, who died here: his bowels were buried in this place: -one told me they took up his heart not long since in a leaden box. -In the eastern angle of the choir is a closet, anciently called the -_God-house_, where the priests locked up their roods, wafers, and -such things: it has a window strongly barred outward. This church is -consecrated to St Laurence: and in the market-place is an hexagonal -cistern, or conduit, like a cross; on the top of which is a long stone -cross, bearing a niche with an image of that saint in it. West of -the church was a college, now converted to a dwelling-house, whose -owner showed us a pretty collection of pictures, one by Holben. There -was a rich priory out of the town on the north side; small ruins now -to be seen, except a little adjoining church once belonging to it: -about the same place an arched gate-way went cross the street, but -now demolished. The greatest rarity of Ludlow is the noble and strong -castle and palace, placed on the north-west angle of the town upon a -rock, commanding a delightful prospect northward; but on the west, -where runs the river, it is overlooked by a high hill. It is strongly -environed by embattled walls of great height and thickness, with -towers at convenient distances: that half which is within the walls -of the town is secured moreover with a deep ditch; the other founded -on the solid rock. It is divided into two separate parts; the castle, -properly so speaking, wherein the palace and lodgings; and the green, -or out-work, what I suppose they call the Barbican: the first is in -the strongest or north-west corner, and has likewise walls and ditch -hewn out of the rock towards the green: this was the residence of the -lords presidents: it was a noble structure, but now, alas! only groans -out with its last breath the glories of its ancient state. A chapel -here has abundance of coats of arms upon the panels; so has the hall, -together with lances, spears, firelocks and old armour; but the present -inhabitants live upon the sale of the timber, stone, iron, and other -materials and furniture, which dwindles away insensibly. Here died -prince Arthur. The green takes in a large compass of ground, wherein -was formerly the court of judicature and records, the stables, garden, -bowling-green and other offices; all which now lie in ruins, or are let -out at rack-rents to those that pilfer what they can: over several of -the stable-doors are queen Elizabeth’s arms, the earls of Pembroke’s, -and others. - -Hence we went along the river Teme to Tenbury. In a niche in the -chancel is a stone, a yard long, of a child of lord Arundel’s of -Sutton-house, as they say, dressed like a knight, cross-legged: another -knight cross-legged under the south wall of the church; on his shield a -chevron between three stars pierced. In the meadow, upon the river, a -_tumulus_ covered with old oaks, called Castle-mead bower, or burrow. - -[Sidenote: +Bewdley.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XIII. XIV.] - -Bewdley is a pleasant town by sweet meadows upon the Severn, which is -the most delightful river I have seen. Here, upon a hill over-looking -the town, is Tickenhall, built by Henry VII. for his son prince -Arthur; part of the old palace is standing, of timber-work: here was -a park too, part of Wire forest. This is a thriving town. A mile off -is Ribsford, the seat of the lord Herbert of Cherbury, pleasantly -encompassed with woods. Here is a good picture of William I. earl -of Pembroke: the ends of the hills toward the river are generally -rocks. Blackston hill has an hermitage cut out of it, with a chapel -and several apartments, which I have represented in prospect and -ground-plot: near it is a pretty rock upon the edge of the water, -covered with Nature’s beautiful canopy of oaks and many curious plants: -near the water, upon the rock, _liver-wort_ grows plentifully. They -dig up coal hereabouts, about twelve yards under ground. Kederminster -is but two miles off: in the church a cross-legged monument of Sir -Tho. Acton. In Wulverhampton church are several old monuments; a brass -statue of Sir Richard Leveson, who fought the Spaniards under Sir -Francis Drake: there is a very old stone pulpit, and a very old stone -cross in the church-yard. Was I to chuse a country residence for health -and pleasure, it would be undoubtedly on the west side of the island, -not far from this river, and where it is most distant from the sea; for -natural reasons, which I need not mention to you. - - Bewdley, 17 Sept. 1721. - -[Illustration: 4 _The North Prospect of Ludlow Castle._] - -[Illustration: _The Ichnography of Ludlow Castle._ - -_Stukeley delin._ _I. Harris Sculp._] - -[Illustration: 5 _The West prospect of Ludlow Castle. Sep. 16. 1721._ - - Robto Cornwall Barrᵗᵗᵒ. d.d. _W. Stukeley_] - -[Illustration: 13 _View of_ Blackston Cave. _River Severn & Lᵈ. - Herberts house near_ Bewdley _Sep. 23. 1721_. - - _Stukeley delin:_ _E. Kirkall sculp:_] - -[Illustration: 14 HERMITAGES. - - _The Groundplot & Section of an Hermitage near Bewdley._ - - _The Hermitage at Dale Abby_ - - _W Stukeley Del_] - - - - - ITER ROMANUM. V. - - _Salve magna parens frugum Britanica tellus, - Magna virum! tibi res antiquæ laudis & artis - Ingredior. Sanctos ausus recludere fontes, - Antiquum repeto Romana per oppida cursum. +Virg.+ - Nam quid Britannum cœlum differre putamus._ +Lucret. vi.+ - - - _To my Lord_ WINCHELSEA. - -The journey I here present your lordship is intirely Roman; for I went -from London full northward to the banks of the Humber, upon the famous -Hermen-street road, passing through Lincoln: then coasting about a -little, at Lincoln again I took the Foss way to its intersection of the -Watling-street in Warwickshire: upon that I returned back to London, -and pursued it to the sea-coasts of Kent: likewise some part of the -Icening-street, as it crosses the others, where it lay not too far -out of my main route, was the subject of my enquiry: so that in this -account is somewhat of all these four great roads of Britain, which -our old monkish writers make a considerable harangue about, but are -scarce able fully to distinguish them, and of the reason of their names -say but little to our satisfaction: but the ways themselves, as drawn -quite a-cross the island in different directions, are sufficiently -manifest to a traveller of common sagacity. Though my discoveries -herein are mean enough, yet I reckon this an happy _æra_ of my life, -because, the very day before I undertook it, I had the good fortune to -be known to your lordship, and at the end of it enjoyed the pleasurable -repose of your delightful seat at Eastwel, but what is more, your own -conversation: since then your many favours, like all other felicities -in life, give me uneasiness in the midst of joy, as sensible of my own -little merit. I have no hope indeed of retaliating; and I know that -great minds like yours imitate Providence, expecting no return from its -beneficiaries: but it is consentaneous to human nature to endeavour at -it, and offer tokens of gratitude, however unequal. The delight you -take in rescuing the monuments of our ancestors, your indefatigable -zeal in collecting them, your exquisite knowledge in the Greek, Roman, -and British antiquities, and especially your great love for those of -your own country, which you continually commit to writing in your -private commentaries, add a reputation to these studies, and make the -Muses hope for a sunshine, when men of your lordship’s noble birth -entertain them with that familiarity and condescension which was one -great glory of the Augustan age. - -[Sidenote: Roman _roads_.] - -For arts military and civil, that became a most wise government, the -Romans beyond compare exceeded all nations; but in their roads they -have exceeded themselves: nothing but the highest pitch of good sense -and public spirit could prompt them to so immense a labour: it is -altogether astonishing to consider how they begirt the whole globe,[50] -as it were, with new meridians and great circles all manner of ways; as -one says, - - _Magnorum fuerat solers hæc cura Quiritum - Constratas passim concelebrare vias._ - -As well as use, they studied eternity in all their works, just opposite -to our present narrow souls, who say, It will serve our time well -enough. For this reason they made few bridges, as liable to decay; -but fords were laid with great skill and labour, many of which remain -firm to this day without any reparation. No doubt but the Romans -gave names to these roads from the commanders under whose government -and direction they were laid out, as was their custom elsewhere: but -because they generally held their posts here but for a short time, and -perhaps scarce any finished one road intirely; therefore, whilst each -endeavoured to stamp his own name upon them, so it fell out that they -were all forgotten. The present appellatives seem to be derived either -from the British or Saxon: William the Conqueror calls them _Chemini -majores_ in confirming the laws of St. Edward about these four ways. -All misdemeanours committed upon them were decided by the king himself. -Though there was no need of paving or raising a bank in some places, -yet it was done for a perpetual direction; and every where I suppose -stones were set at a mile’s distance, many of which are still left. -Of these four celebrated ways, the Foss and Icening-street traverse -the kingdom from south-west to north-east, parallel to one another: -the Watling-street crossed them quite the contrary way, with an equal -obliquity: the Hermen-street passed directly north and south: and -besides these are very many more. I purpose not to give a full history -of them here, any farther than I travel upon them, reserving that till -I am better able. - -[Sidenote: +Hermen-street.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. LVI.] - -[Sidenote: Br. _camp._] - -Somewhat on the Hermen-street is said already in my first letter -about Lincolnshire, where it divides itself into two, which we may -call the old and the new branch. Here I design to search it up to its -fountain-head. As to its name, we have no reason to seek any farther -than the Saxon language, where _Here_ signifies an army; _Hereman_, a -soldier or warriour:[51] the Hermen-street then is the military street, -in the same propriety the Romans used it. It begins at Newhaven, at -the mouth of the river Ouse in Sussex, and passes on the west side the -river through Radmil, probably taking its name thence; so through Lewis -by Isfield: then it seems to pass over the river at Sharnbridge, as we -may guess by its name, and so proceeds to East Grinsted, but I suppose -lost in passing through the great woods: then through Surrey it goes by -Stane-street, Croydon, Stretham, and, by its pointing, we may suppose -was designed originally to pass the Thames at the ferry called Stangate -by Lambeth, where it coincides with the Watling-street. Of this I can -say nothing yet, having not travelled it. There I apprehend the road -went before London became very considerable; but when the majesty of -the place suddenly arose to great height, this road, and all others -directed this way, deflected a little from their primitive intention, -to salute the _Augusta_ of Britain, destined to be the _altera Roma_; -and this has rendered them all obscure near the city. It is generally -thought the Hermen-street goes hence through Bishopsgate, and along -the northern road; but I apprehend that to be of much later standing -than the original one, which goes more on the west. By the quotation I -mentioned in my first letter, when upon this road, out of Mr. Gale’s -Itinerary, of Lowlsworth near Bishopsgate, it seems as if it was done -in Lollius Urbicus his time. The original one perhaps passes through -unfrequented ways near Enfield and Hermen-street, seeming to retain -the old name: on the eastern side of Enfield chace, by Bush hill, is a -circular British camp upon an eminence declining south-west; but our -ancient road appears upon a common on this side of Hertford by Ball’s -park, and so passes the river below Hertford; then goes through Ware -park, and falls into the present road on this side Wadesmill,[52] and -so to Royston. Here must have been several stations upon it, but I -see no hope of ever retrieving their names: that Hertford is one is -reasonable to think, it having been ever in the royal demesne, and -passing a river at a proper distance from London: but in the assignment -of _Durocobrovis_ here, I take leave to dissent from Camden and other -learned men; it by no means answers the distances in the Itinerary, or -the import of the name; the Red Ford, or the Ford of Harts, are fancies -without foundation: either _trajectus militaris_ is the meaning, or -it is the passage of the river Ard, now the Beane: Ardley at the -spring-head of it: _ardh_ in British is _altus_. - -[Sidenote: +Icening-street.+] - -[Sidenote: +Wilbury.+ Br.] - -[Sidenote: Ro. _camp._] - -[Sidenote: +Harbury Banks.+ Br.] - -At Royston the Icening-street crosses the Hermen-street, coming from -Dunstable going into Suffolk: this about Baldock appears but like a -fieldway, and scarce the breadth of a coach, the farmers on both sides -industriously ploughing it up: between Baldock and Icleford it goes -through an intrenchment, taking in the top of a hill of good compass, -but of no great elevation: it consists of a _vallum_ only, and such a -thing as I take to be properly the remains of a British _oppidum_: it -is called Wilbury hill, and is said to have been woody not intirely -beyond memory: this street, quite to the Thames in Oxfordshire, goes -at the bottom of a continued ridge of hills called the Chiltern, being -chalk, the natural as well as civil boundaries between the counties -of Hertford and Bedford, very steep northward. Ickleford retains the -name of the street, which at this place passes a rivulet with a stoney -ford wanting reparation. Near Periton church has been a castle of -Saxon or Norman times, with a keep. These high chalk hills, having a -fine prospect northward, are covered with a beautiful turf like the -Wiltshire downs, and have such like barrows here and there, and indeed -are but a continuation of them quite a-cross the kingdom. Near Hexton -is a square Roman camp upon a _lingula_, or promontory, just big enough -for the purpose: it is very steep quite round, except at a narrow -slip where the entrance is; double ditched, and very strong, but -land-locked with hills every way, except to the north-east, and that -way has a good prospect: under it is a fine spring: it seems made by -the Romans when they were masters of all the country on this side, and -extending their arms northward. On High downs is a pleasant house by a -wood, where is a place called Chapel close: in this wood are barrows -and dikes, perhaps of British original. Liliho is a fine plot of ground -upon a hill steep to the north-west, where a horse-race is kept: from -under it goes the Icening-street by Stretley to Dunstable. North of -Baldoc we visited the camp by Ashwel, taken notice of in Camden, called -Harbury banks: it is of a theatrical form, consisting wholly of an -_agger_: though Roman coins have been found in it, I am inclinable to -think it is earlier than their times. Between Calcot and Henxworth, two -miles off, several Roman antiquities have been dug up this year; many -in the custody of my friend Simon Degg, esq; he gave me this account of -it: some workmen, digging gravel for the repair of the great northern -road, struck upon some earthen vessels, or large urns, full of burnt -bones and ashes, but rotten: near them a human skeleton, with the -head towards the south-east, the feet north-west: several bodies were -found in this manner not above a foot under the surface of the earth, -and with urns great or small near them, and _pateras_ of fine red -earth, some with the impression of the maker on the bottom: there were -likewise glass lachrymatories, _ampullas_, a _fibula_ of brass, six -small glass rings, two long glass beads of a green colour, and other -fragments. - -[Sidenote: +Salinæ.+] - -Northward still upon a high sandy hill, by the bank of the river -Ivel, is a Roman camp called Chesterton: under it lies the town -called Sandy, or Salndy, the _Salinæ_ of the Romans in Ptolemy, -where great quantities of Roman and British antiquities have been -found, and immense numbers of coins, once a brass _Otho_, vases, -urns, lachrymatories, lamps. Mr. Degg has a cornelian intaglia, and a -British gold coin dug up here, _Tascio_ upon it. Thomas Bromsal esq. -has a fine silver _Cunobelin_ found here, of elegant work; others of -Titus, Agrippina, Trajan, Hadrian, Augustus, Antoninus Pius, Faustina, -Constantius Chlorus, Constantinus Magnus, Carausius, Alectus, Tetricus, -and many more.[53] His great grandfather, high-sheriff of this county, -preserved the invaluable Cottonian library from plunder in the time of -the commonwealth, whilst it was at Stratton in this county, about anno -1650. The soil here is sand, perfectly like that on the sea shore. I -imagine a Roman road passed by this place westward from Grantchester by -Cambridge. - -[Sidenote: +Camboritum.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. LIX.] - -[Sidenote: Roman _camp_.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XLV.] - -Return we to Royston again. Going upon the Icening-street the other -way, just upon the edge of Cambridgeshire, we come to Chesterford upon -the river going to Cambridge, near Icleton and Strethal. In July, 1719, -I discovered the _vestigia_ of a Roman city here: the foundation of -the walls is very apparent quite round, though level with the ground, -including a space of about fifty acres: great part of it serves for -a causeway to the public Cambridge road from London: the Crown inn -is built upon it:[54] the rest is made use of by the countrymen for -their carriages to and fro in the fields: the earth is still high on -both sides of it: in one part they have been long digging this wall up -for materials in building and mending the roads: there I measured its -breadth twelve foot, and remarked its composition of rag stone, -flints and Roman brick: in a little cottage hard by, the parlour is -paved with bricks; they are fourteen inches and an half long, and nine -broad. In the north-west end of the city,[55] the people promised -to show me a wonderful thing in the corn, which they observed every -year with some sort of superstition. I found it to be the foundation -of a Roman temple very apparent, it being almost harvest time: here -the poverty of the corn growing where the walls stood, defines it to -such a nicety, that I was able to measure it with exactness enough: -the dimensions of the cell, or _naos_, were fifteen foot in breadth, -forty in length; the _pronaos_, where the steps were, appeared at both -ends, and the wall of the portico around, whereon stood the pillars. -I remarked that the city was just a thousand Roman feet in breadth, -and that the breadth to the length was as three to five, of the same -proportion as they make their bricks: it is posited obliquely to the -cardinal points, its length from north-west to south-east; whereby -wholesomeness is so well provided for, according to the direction of -Vitruvius. The river Cam runs under the wall, whence its name; for -I have no scruple to think this was the _Camboritum_ of Antoninus, -meaning the ford over this river, or the crooked ford: in Lincolnshire -we called a crooked stick, the butchers use, a _cambril_.[56] They have -found many Roman coins in the city or Borough field, as they call it: I -saw divers of them. In this parish, they say, has been a royal manor: -not far off, by Audlenhouse, upon an eminence is a great Roman camp -called Ringhill; a hunting tower of brick now stands upon it. Beyond -this the Icening-street goes toward Icleworth in Suffolk, parting the -counties of Cambridge and Essex all the way; and almost parallel to it -runs a great ditch, viz. from Royston to Balsham, called Brentditch, -where it turns and goes to the river below Cambridge, there called -Flightditch. I imagine these to be ancient boundaries of the Britons, -and before the Roman road was made, which naturally enough would have -served for a distinction by the Saxons, as at other places, had their -limits lain hereabouts. Two miles both ways of Royston is chalky -soil:[57] about Puckeridge it is gravelly. On Bartlow hills there is -a camp too, castle camps, and Roman antiquities found: I am told of -three remarkable barrows thereabouts, where bones have been dug out. -At Hadstok they talk of the skin of a Danish king nailed upon the -church-doors. - -[Illustration: 59 +Camboritvm.+ - _21. Aug. 1722._ - - _Thomæ Bawtre Conterraneo Suo Tabula votiva._ - - _Stukeley delin._] - -[Illustration: 45 _The_ Hunting Tower _in the Ro. Camp near_ Littlebury - _Aug. 21. 1722._ - - _View of_ Silchester Walls _from the N.E. corner Aug. 5. 1722. Ro. - Brick & Flint._ - - _Stukeley delin:_ & Amico Peregrino Bertie Ar. vovet. _E. Kirkall - sculp:_] - -Now we shall take along with us the Itinerary of Antoninus in his -fifth journey; for after he has gone from London toward Colchester, -and part of Suffolk, he turns into this Icening-street at _Icianis_, -which seems to be Icesworth beyond St. Edmundsbury; from whence to -this _Camboritum_ is thirty-five miles: from thence to Huntingdon is -just twenty-five, as they are noted; but it is to be supposed that -the Itinerary went along the Icening-street to Royston, then took the -Hermen-street; for so the miles exactly quadrate. - -[Sidenote: +Royston.+ Ro. _town_.] - -Royston, as being seated upon the intersection of these two roads, no -doubt was a Roman town[58] before Roisia[59] built her religious house -here, and perpetuated her own name upon the Roman, which is now lost; -and this very year they found Roman coins near there: but there seems -to be the stump of her cross still remaining at the corner of the inn -just where the two roads meet. The Hermen-street now coincides all the -way with the common northern road. At Arminton, denominated from it, -passes another branch of the river going to Cambridge in Armingford -hundred; so by Caxton, which was probably a baiting-place: there are -some old works without the town. A red clay begins now. Anno 1721, -near this road my lord Oxford, digging canals at Wimpole, found many -bodies, and pieces of iron rusty, the remains of some battle. Wimpole -is now improved and honoured with his residence, and the noble Harleian -library. - -[Sidenote: +Durocinonte.+] - -At Godmanchester, or Gormanchester, on this side Huntingdon river, the -name _chester_ ascertains the Roman _castrum_ to have been; nor is -there any dispute of it, however critics vary about its name, whether -_Durosiponte_ or _Durocinonte_; whether there was a bridge, a ferry, -or a ford, in most ancient times: no doubt but the Romans inhabited -both sides of the river, and probably rather at Huntingdon, being a -much better situation; therefore, as to antiquities here found, I hold -myself more excusable if at present I have nothing to say. Mr. Camden -tells us Roman coins have been frequently ploughed up at Gormanchester, -and Henry of Huntingdon says it has been a noble city: but I took -notice of a wooden bridge over a rivulet between the two towns, which -ought not to be forgot, as a grateful and public charity, having this -inscription. - - ROB̄TUS COOK EMERGENS AQUIS HOC VIATORIBUS - SACRUM DD. 1636. - -In Huntingdon is the house where Oliver Cromwell was born: though it is -new-built, yet they preserved that room in its first state.[60] - -[Sidenote: +Stukeley.+] - -From hence the Hermen-street goes in a strait line through Great and -Little Stukeley, so called from the soil, and most anciently written -_Styvecle_, signifying a stiff clay.[61] I should be ungrateful to my -ancestors, not to mention that hence they had their name and large -possessions in both towns, and many others hereabouts. I have the -genealogy of them from Herebert be Styvecle, mentioned in Madox _Hist. -Scaccar. cap._ xiv. _fol._ 382. _mag. rot._ 12. H. II. _rot._ 6. Cant. -& Hunt. which shows that they had lands here before. His descendants -of this place have been high sheriffs of the counties of Huntingdon -and Cambridge more than thirty times, and knights of the shire in -parliament more than forty times: but I remember Lucan says, - - ————_perit omnis in illo - Nobilitas, cujus laus est in origine sola._ - -In Great Stukeley church is a font of a very ancient make, and in -the north aile a monumental brass of Sir Nicholas Styvecle: the legend -round the verge of the stone was kept for some time in the town chest, -when it was taken off being loose, but now lost: the effigies being -in the same condition, we carried it to be hung up in the hall now -belonging to James Torkington esq; whose ancestors married the heiress -of the family, and now enjoys the estate. - -[Illustration: 17 +Inclytus Ailwinus Totius Angliæ Aldermanus Fundator - Abbatiæ de Ramsey, (In Lapide. 1719.)+ - - _W. Stukeley delin._ _& Amicissimo S. Gale Ar. D.D._ _E. Kirkall - sculp:_] - -[Sidenote: +Conington+.] - -[Sidenote: +Ramsey+.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XVII.] - -The Hermen-street hence becomes notorious by the name of Stangate; -whence we may conjecture that it was originally paved with stone: -a mile beyond Little Stukeley it turns somewhat to the right, and -then proceeds full north and south: near Stilton some parts appear -still paved with stone: it passes through great woods between the two -Saltrys, where was a religious foundation of Simon Silvanect II. earl -of Huntingdon and Northampton; among whose ruins lie buried Robert -Brus, lord of Anandale in Scotland, and of Cleveland in England, with -Isabel his wife, from whom the Scottish branch of our royal family is -descended. Near the road-side Roman urns have been dug up. I thought -it piety to turn half a mile out of the road, to visit Conington, the -seat of the noble Sir Robert Cotton, where he and the great Camden have -often sat in council upon the antiquities of Britain, and where he had -a choice collection of Roman inscriptions, picked up from all parts of -the kingdom. I was concerned to see a stately old house of hewn stone -large and handsome lie in dismal ruin, the deserted _lares_ and the -_genius_ of the place fled: by it a most beautiful church and tower; -in the windows is fine painted glass, but of what sort I know not: a -poor cottage or two seem to be the whole town, once the possession of -the kings of Scotland.[62] From those woods aforementioned, standing on -high ground, you see all over the level of the fens, particularly that -huge reservoir of water called Whitlesey-mere, full of fish, and a very -pleasant place in summer time, where the gentry have little vessels to -sail in for diversion: upon this hill Sir Robert Cotton, digging the -foundation of a house, found the skeleton of a fish twelve foot long. A -little to the right lies Ramsey, famous for a rich abbey, where every -monk lived like a gentleman: there is little of it left now, but a part -of the old gate-house. In the yard I saw the neglected statue of the -famous Alwyn the founder, called alderman of all England, cousin to -king Edgar: I take this to be one of the most ancient pieces of English -sculpture which we knew of: the _insignia_ he has in his hand, the keys -and ragged staff, relate to his office. Anno 1721 many pecks of Roman -coins were found there. Probably from the name we may conjecture it -was a Roman town. Near it is Audrey causeway: at the south end of it, -in the parish of Willingham, a camp of a circular form, large, called -Belsar’s hills, thought that of William the Conqueror, or his general -Belasis, when busied in the reduction of the isle of Ely, or Odo -Balistarius. A Roman pavement found at Ramsey. - -Stilton, or Stickleton, analogous to _Stivecle_, is famous for cheese, -which they sell at 12d. per pound, and would be thought equal to -Parmesan, were it not too near us. Beyond here the road is perfect, -with a ridge upon the open fields, for a long way together: it goes -pretty near north and south about Stangate; but now it takes a turn -to the left a little, to avoid the vast fens full before our view. I -cannot but take notice of the great stones, set at every mile from -Grantham hither by Mr. Boulter, which he designed to have carried on -to London. Any thing that assists or amuses travellers is most highly -commendable: hence the good understanding of the ancients prompted them -to set their funeral monuments by the road side, not crouded round -their temples: they knew the absurdity of filling the mind with ideas -of melancholy, at such times as they approached the sacred altars: -there nought but what is beautiful and great ought to appear, as -most besuiting the place where we seek the Deity. With them Mercury -was the god of ways, and the _custos manium_. I have often wondered -that the cheap and easy method of setting up posts with directions at -every cross road is so little practised; which methinks deserves to be -enforced by a law: it would teach the carpenters that make them, and -the country people, to read, with much more emolument to the public -than some other methods now in vogue: of other uses I need say nothing. -All the country between Huntingdon river and Peterborough river is -clay, sand, and gravel; but beyond that to the Humber is stone. At -Gunwath ferry over Peterborough river is a new bridge, where boats too -pay a toll; such is the modern way of encouraging trade and navigation. -The people of Peterborough are averse to having their river made -navigable, out of an absurd notion that it will spoil their trade. - -[Sidenote: +Durobrivis.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XIII. 2d Vol.] - -The imperial Itinerary makes 35 miles between the last station, -_Durocinonte_, and _Durobrivis_;[63] but a decimal too much is put -into the number, for 25 is full enough: it is indeed 25 measured miles -from Huntingdon river to the Nen at Caster: there is no dispute but -Chesterton by Caster is the place. Dornford retains somewhat of the -old name, where the road traversed the river by a bridge (of brass, -the common people say.) At Chesterton on this side is a large tract -of ground, called the Castle field, with a ditch and rampart around -it:[64] the Roman road runs directly through it, and still retains -its high ridge. I observe every where near the fenny country great -precaution and strength employed; which seems owing to the incursions -of the Britons from that part, who, no doubt, retired into these -fastnesses as their last refuge, when the Roman arms shined all around -them: and that reason must induce the Romans very early to think of -draining the country, and rendering it provincial, which was the only -means of preventing that inconvenience. The Hermen-street beyond the -river runs for some space along the side of it upon the meadow, then -turns up with an angle, and proceeds full north. Caster[65] is above -half a mile from it, upon the hill. I espied a bit of the foundation of -the wall of the Roman _castrum_ in the street to the north-west corner -of the church, under the wall of the house where the minister lives: -it is easily known by the vast strength of the mortar, built of the -white slab-stone of the country: this _castrum_ then went round the -church-yard, and took in the whole top of the hill, facing the mid day -sun. Underneath it lay the city; for below the church-yard the ground -is full of foundations and Mosaics: I saw a bit of a pavement in the -cellar of the ale-house (the Boot.) - - ————_varias ubi picta per artes - Gaudet humus, suberantque novis asarota figuris._ +Stat. Silv.+ - -[Illustration: 13·2ᵈ. _over the Quire door in Castor chh._ - - _Prospect of Castor_, Durobrivis. 11. July. 1724._ - - _Stukeley delin._ _E. Kirkall sculp._] - -They know of many such: particularly at Mr. Wright’s, and in the -landlord’s garden, is an intire one untouched. Roman coins are found in -great abundance: I have before me a long and particular catalogue of -many I have seen of all times, from the consular to the later emperors, -in brass and silver, but think it a nauseous formality to print them: a -few I will repeat of the silver. - - _M. poblic_ ℞ — _nus imp._ - _Ant._ III. _vir_ _leg._ VI. - _Sabin_ _l. titur._ the rape of the Sabins. - _Augustus divi fil._ _imp_ x _act_. - _Cæsar Augustus pater patriæ._ _Augusti f. cos. design. princ. juvent._ - [exergue] _Cl. Cæsaris_ - _Augustus Cæsar_ a comet. _idus jun._ - _Cæsar_ _l. juli l. f._ a chariot drawn by cupids. - _Hadrian Cos._ III. _Ægyptos_, a recumbent figure with the - _sistrum_. - _Theodosius_ _virtus romanorum tr. p. s._ - _Silanus_ _l. f. roma._ - -These among more are in the possession of Monsieur Baillardeau.[66] In -the ploughed fields between the town and the river, toward Ford-green, -they are often found, with earthen pipes, bricks, and- all sorts of -antiquities: in that field is a tract running quite through, whereon -corn grows very poorly, which is nothing but a street or road laid -with a deep bed of gravel: the vulgar have a foolish story about it, -as at other places, and say that lady Kyneburg cursed it; by whom -they mean the abbess that built a religious house here, which stood -eastward of the church: some part of it is still left. This meadow is -called Norman-gate field, or more properly Dorman-gate, some corrupted -memorial of the ancient name of the town, which extended itself hither; -and foundations are found all about here, and innumerable coins, which -they call Dorman pence: part of this is Berrysted, where antiquities -are dug up every day. Higher up toward Peterborough is Mill-field: -Mosaic pavements are there dug up, and other things; and seems to have -been a little citadel belonging to the town. Part of the church is of -an ancient fabric, but new modelled: there is a curious inscription -upon a stone over the choir door thus: (the letters are raised.) - - XVᵒ. KLˢ MAI. DEDICATIO HVIˢ ECLEˢ A. D. Mᵒ. CXIIII. - -it is wrong transcribed in Camden. The steeple stands in the middle -of the church: the tower is a fine piece of ancient architecture with -semi-circular arches; I judge the spire of later date. The square well -by the porch no doubt is Roman; it is curbed with hewn stone: though -it stands on a hill, yet the water is very high: at the east end of -the church is a very old cross. Mr. Morton is very copious upon this -station, in his curious history of Northamptonshire; the inquisitive -reader will consult him: I only recite such things as I saw, and fear -being tedious upon such places as admit of no doubt among antiquaries. -A little higher up the river, near Wansford bridge,[67] a gold British -coin was found, in the possession of Mr. Maurice Johnson, J. C. Anno -1720, at Thorp, the seat of Sir Francis St. John, by Peterborough, a -Mosaic pavement was found: this was undoubtedly a villa of some great -Roman. In the garden here are some fine antique statues of marble, -but suffering more from the weather, in this moist situation, than -from age: in the middle is a Livia of coloss proportion, the wife -of Augustus: in the four quarters are Diana, Amphion, an orator, a -gladiator: upon the terrace, an admirable Hercules killing Hydra: in -the court are two equestrian figures in copper, Henry IV. of France, -and Don John of Austria: within the house over most of the doors are -placed busts, Bassianus, Caracalla, &c. these antiquities were of the -Arundel collection. - -Hence I travelled upon the Roman road all the way to Stanford. As it -rises from the water-side of Peterborough river, and passes over the -corn-fields, it appears in a lofty ridge called Norman-gate, i. e. -Dorman-gate; only here and there they have dug great holes in it for -its materials: it goes forwards to Lolham bridges, by the name of -Long-ditch, which we treated of before, being its oldest and directest -road, full north and south. In the reign of Nero all the southern part -of the island was conquered, and the _Brigantes_ were fast friends; -so that in his time we may conclude the Hermen-street was made as far -as Sleford by Catus Decianus the procurator, as we suggested in the -first letter. But now our journey is by the left-hand new branch, and -which goes out of the other with an angle in the parish of Upton, -called the Forty-foot way: almost at Southorp, it is inclosed in a -pasture; but beyond that you find it again, going by Walcot inclosures, -then through Bernack fields, winding a little to the left hand till -it enters Burleigh park: its true line from Walcot corner would pass -through Tolethorp wood, but the river below Stanford was too broad; so -it passes through Burleigh park, where its gravel is transferred to -make walks in the gardens: at Wothorp park-wall it appears again with a -very high ridge and agreeable sight, descending the valley to Stanford -river, which it passes a little above the town between it and Tynwell; -then rises again upon the opposite hill, entering Lincolnshire, with -its broad and elated crest, till it goes to Brigcasterton: it is -composed all the way of stone, gravel, and hard materials, got near at -hand: the common road leaves it intirely from Peterborough river to -Brigcasterton, crossing it at Wothrop park-wall.[68] - -[Sidenote: +Brigcasterton.+ Ro. _town_.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XIV. 2d vol.] - -Brigcasterton happened most convenient for a station, being ten miles -from the last, or Durobrivis; but the Itinerary mentions not its name; -for the distances between them, and likewise to Lincoln, impugn Mr. -Camden and such as place Causennis here: however, it was fenced about -with a deep mote on two sides, the river supplying its use on the other -two; for it stands in an angle, and the Romans made a little curve -in the road here on purpose to take it in, as it offered itself so -conveniently, then rectified the obliquity on the other side of the -town: it consists of one street running through its length upon the -road: this great ditch and banks are called the Dikes. I saw many coins -that are found here; and one pasture is called Castle-close at the -corner: they say the foundation of a wall was dug up there.[69] - -[Illustration: 14·2ᵈ. _Prospect of_ Brig casterton _from the Hermen - Street S. of the Town. 13. July 1724._ - - _Stukeley delin._ _E. Kirkall sculp._] - -[Illustration: 20 _Colsterworth Church Lincolnshire_ - - Magno NEUTONO _Ecclesiam Parochiæ Ipsius Natalibus celebris Summæ - Observantiæ Monumentum quam pusillum humillime consecrat Conterraneus - suus Wˢ. Stukeley, 1722_ - - _Stukeley Fecit_] - -[Sidenote: +Colsterworth.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XX.] - -Hence the road goes by Stretton, then leaves a little on the left hand -Colsterworth, highly memorable for being the birth-place of that vast -genius Sir Isaac Newton, the darling of Nature, who with a sagacity -truly wonderful has penetrated into the secret methods of all her great -operations; of whom Lincolnshire may justly boast: and we may say of -him, with Lucretius, I. - - _Ergo vivida vis animi pervicit, & extra - Processit longe flammantia mœnia mundi, - Atque omne immensum peragravit mente animoque._[70] - -On the north wall of the chancel is this monument. _Heic jacent -Gulielmi Walkeri particulæ obiit 1 aug. anno domini 1684. ætat. 61._ - -[Sidenote: +Causennis.+] - -Thirty lesser miles from Durobrivis you come to Paunton,[71] which -must needs be _Causennis_: it is indeed twenty seven measured miles, -the Hermen-street accompanying. This village is at present under the -hill where the road goes near the spring of the Witham, to which I -suppose its name alludes, as the present to _pant avon_: both signify -the valley of the river in British: perhaps the most ancient name of -the river was _Cavata_; whence that part of the country that is watered -by it assumed the name of Kestevon,[72] importing the river Cavata, -_Cavaut avon_; as Lindsey from _Lindum_: the present name Witham, or -_Guithavon_, signifying the separating river, as it principally divides -these two. Many Roman coins are found here, and all the neighbourhood -round, and Mosaic pavements, Roman bricks, urns and the like, of a -curious composition. Mr. Burton speaks of a musive pavement. - -[Sidenote: +Ancaster.+ Ro. _town_.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XV. 2d Vol.] - -The Hermen-street, now called High-dike road, goes along the heath, -which preserves it from being worn away; and it is a sight highly -entertaining. The next town it comes to is Ancaster:[73] what was its -Roman name I know not; but it has been a very strong city, intrenched -and walled about; as may be seen very plainly for the most part, and -perceived by those that are the least versed in these searches. The -bowling-green behind the Red-lion inn is made in the ditch: when they -were levelling it, they came to the old foundation. At this end of the -town, where a dove-cote stands, is Castle close, full of foundations -appearing every where above ground: the ditch and rampire encompass -it. Here are prodigious quantities of Roman coins found; many people -in the town have traded in the sale of them these thirty years: they -are found too in great plenty upon all the hills round the town, -especially southward, and toward Castle-pits; so that one may well -persuade one’s self, that glorious people sowed them in the earth like -corn, as a certain harvest of their fame, and indubitable evidence of -their presence at this place. After a shower of rain the school-boys -and shepherds look for them on the declivities, and never return empty. -I saw an _Antoninus Pius_, of base silver, found that morning I was -there: likewise I saw many of Faustina, Verus, Commodus, Gallienus, -Salonina, Julia Mæsa, Constantius Chlorus, Helena, Maximiana Theodora, -Constantine the Great, Magnentius, Constans, Tetricus, Victorinus, -&c.[74] The town consists of one street running north and south along -the road: there is a spring at both ends of the town, and which, no -doubt, was the reason of their pitching it at this place; for no more -water is met with from hence to Lincoln. There is a road on the west -side of the town, which was for the convenience of those that travelled -when the gates were shut. On a stone laid upon the church wall I read -this inscription, in large letters of lead melted into the cavities. - - PRIEZ: PUR - LE: ALME - SIRE: JOHN - COLMAN - CHIVALER - -In the church-yard are two priests cut in stone. This has been a -populous place; for here are great quarries about it, and the rock lies -very little under the surface. Mr. Camden speaks of vaults found here; -and W. Harrison, in his description of Britain, II. 17. mentions Mosaic -pavements.[75] The road seems to bend somewhat in this part, which I -conjecture was with an intent to take in the springs. - -[Illustration: 15·2ᵈ. - - _Stukeley delin._ _E. Kirkall sculp._ - - _Prospect of_ Ancaster. _Iuly 20. 1724._] - -[Sidenote: +Hunington.+ Ro. _camp_.] - -A mile and half off to the west, in the parish of Hunnington, upon -a hill surveying a lovely prospect, both toward the sea-coast, and -into Nottinghamshire, is a summer camp of the Romans, or a _castrum -exploratorum_, of a square form and doubly trenched, but of no great -bulk: the entrance seems to have been on the east side. Not long ago, -in this place, have been dug up, in ploughing, bits of spears, bridles -and swords, and two urns full of coins: I saw a large brass one of -Agrippa, and Julia daughter to Augustus, with many more, in possession -of the Rev. Mr. Garnon of North Witham: his daughter gave me a score of -them at Newark, Dec. 1728. Mr. Banks, 1735, digging for his new house -at Ancaster, found much Roman antiquity. - -All the way from this road, upon Ancaster heath, we have a view of -the sea, and the towering height of Boston steeple. A little further -we come to a place, of no mean note among the country people, called -Byard’s Leap, where the Newark road crosses the Roman: here is a cross -of stone, and by it four little holes made in the ground: they tell -silly stories of a witch and a horse making a prodigious leap, and that -his feet rested in these holes, which I rather think the boundaries -of four parishes: perhaps I may be too fanciful in supposing this -name a corruption of _vialis lapis_. I mentioned before, that here -I apprehended the Roman road from the fen country passed down the -hill toward _Crocolana_. Upon our road there are many stones placed; -but most seem modern, and like stumps of crosses, yet probably are -mile-stones: it would be of little use to measure the intervals; -for one would find that the whole distance between two towns was -equally divided by such a number of paces as came nearest the total. -Over-against Temple-Bruer is a cross upon a stone, cut through in -the shape of that borne by the knights Templars, and I suppose a -boundary of their demesnes: some part of their old church is left, of -a circular form as usual. _Bruer_ in this place signifies a heath. -The Hermen-street hereabout is very bold and perfect, made of stone -gathered all along from the superficial quarries, the holes remaining. -I observed, whenever it intercepts a valley of any considerable -breadth, whose water must necessarily drain past it, there is an -intermission left in the road; for otherwise their work would be vain: -and the ends of the road are flaunted off neatly for that purpose, -laying perhaps a small quantity of solid materials to vindicate the -track, and not hinder the voidance of the rain: it goes perfectly -strait from Ancaster to Lincoln full north, butting upon the west side -of Lincoln town. A _tumulus_ some time upon the centre of it: it is -notorious from hence that the intent of these roads was chiefly to mark -out the way to such places in the march of their armies; for there can -be no need of a causeway for travellers, the heath being so perfectly -good; and that our English word _highway_ is hence derived, and applied -to public ways. When we come to the towns upon the cliff side, they -have ploughed up this barren ground on both sides the road, and basely -lowered it for miles together, by dragging the plough a-cross it at -every furrow; so that every year levels it some inches, and, was it -not a public road, it would soon be quite obliterated. Here are six -villages on the left hand, at a mile distance each, and a little off -the road, which make an agreeable prospect. Just descending Lincoln -hill, I saw the true profile of the road broke off by the wearing away -of the ground: it is about thirty foot broad, made of stone piled up -into an easy convexity: there is likewise generally a little trench -dug in the natural earth along both sides of the road, which is of -great use in conducting the water that falls from the heavens into -the vallies upon the long side of the road both ways, and prevents its -lodging and stagnating against the side of their work: the turf that -came out of those trenches they threw upon the road to cover it with -grass: thus had they all the curious and convenient ways for beauty, -use, and perpetuity.[76] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XXVIII.] - -Below the hill the Hermen-street meets with the Foss, which now -united march directly up to the city, across a great vale where the -river Witham runs, by Mr. Baxter thought the _Victius_ of Ravennas: -Mr. Leland calls it _Lindis_. As it descends towards Boston, it is -besieged, as it were, by religious houses, planted at every mile; such -as Nocton priory, founded by Robert D’arci, lord of the place, 1164. -now the elegant seat of Sir William Ellys, bart. Kyme priory, founded -by Philip and Simon de Kyme, knts. to which the Tailboyses added, who -married the heiress; Barlings abbey, founded by Ralph de Hay, and his -brother Richard; Stanfield, the seat now of Sir John Tyrwhit, bart. -Bardney abbey built by king Ethelred, who was buried here anno 712. -much added by Remigius bishop of Lincoln; Tupholm, founded by Rob. de -Novavilla; Stikeswold priory of the Benedictine nuns; Kirksted abbey, -by Hugh de Breton, whose ichnography is discoverable from its ruins; -Revesby abbey, by William de Romara. - -[Sidenote: +Lindum.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. LXXXVIII.] - -[Sidenote: 1.] - -[Sidenote: 2.] - -I think it not worth while, in a Roman journey, to dwell upon these -places, and haste up hill to Lincoln,[77] a great and most famous city -of theirs, graced with the title and privilege of a colony; therefore -called _Lindum colonia_; a bold and noble situation upon a high hill, -which we may think no less than five cities united into one; of all -which I shall give a short account in their order, as to what I -observed, without transcribing such matters as the reader will find -better delivered in authors. My business is to illustrate the 88th -Plate, which I made by pacing as I walked about the city, intended to -give the idea of the place as formed originally by the Romans, and -of their roads leading to and from it. Below the hill, and westward -of the city, the river throws itself into a great pool, called Swan -pool from the multitude of swans upon it. All around this place the -ground is moory, and full of bogs and islets, called now Carham, which -means a dwelling upon the _car_, that is, the fen. Now here, without -question, was the British city in the most early times, where they -drove their cattle backwards and forwards, and retired themselves into -its inaccessible securities; and from thence I apprehend the name of -_caer_, signifying a fortification or inclosure in all the most ancient -languages, came in this country to be retained in these morasses: this -was its name as a dwelling, or a collection of native inhabitants; but -the pool in their language was called _lhyn_, and that denominated the -Roman city _Lindum_, being the hill hanging over this pool. From this -Carham you have a pleasant view of the west front of the cathedral. The -shape of the pool is thought very much to resemble a map of England, -when you survey it from the top of the cathedral. The Romans, pleased -with this notable eminence, placed their city upon it, which they first -built in the form of a large square, the southern wall standing upon -the precipice or edge of the hill, and wanted no other external fence: -quite round the other three sides they carried a deep trench too, which -still remains, except on the south-east angle. This city was divided -into four equal parts, by two cross streets that cut it quite through -upon the cardinal points: the two southern quarters were taken -up, one by the castle, the other by the church which Remigius built; -but, when Alexander the bishop projected a structure of much larger -dimensions, they carried the sacred inclosure beyond the eastern bounds -of the city, and so built a new wall farther that way, as it is now, -with battlements and towers. The north and south Roman gates of this -part of the city remain; the one intire, the other pulled down about -fifteen years ago by Mr. Houghton: the northern, called Newport gate, -is the noblest remnant of this sort in Britain, as far as I know. -Upon the first sight of it I was struck with admiration, as well of -its noble simplicity, as that hitherto it should not have been taken -notice of: it is a vast semicircle of stones of very large dimensions, -and, by what I could perceive, laid without mortar, connected only by -their cuniform shape. This magnificent arch is sixteen foot diameter, -the stones four foot thick at bottom: from the injuries of time, but -worse of hands, it is somewhat luxated, yet seems to have a joint in -the middle, not a key-stone: on both sides, towards the upper part, -are laid horizontal stones of great dimensions, some ten or twelve -foot long, to take off the side pressure, very judiciously adapted. -This arch rises from an impost of large mouldings, some part of which, -especially on the left-hand side, are still discoverable: below on -both sides was a postern, or foot passage, made of like stones; but -against that on the left side is a house built, and when I went down -into the cellar I found a chimney set before it. The ground here in -the street has been very much raised, and the top of the wall is of a -later workmanship: it is indeed a most venerable piece of antiquity, -and what a lover of architecture would be hugely delighted withall. -They that look upon a gate among the vestiges of the _forum_ of Nerva -at Rome, will think they see the counterpart of this; but, of the two, -this has the most grandeur in aspect: the drawing supplies any further -harangue about it. From this gate eastward, some part of the old Roman -wall is to be seen by a pasture, made of stone and very strong mortar: -thereabout too are some arches under ground. The west gate toward the -gallows was pulled down, not beyond memory: that on the south side, -which I spoke of, still shows one jamb from between the houses, and -two or three stones of the same make as the former, just above the -springing of the arch: if you go up stairs in the adjoining house -within the city, you may see the postern on the east side, which is big -enough for a bed to stand in. I doubt not but there is, or was, another -answerable on the other side; but this street is much contracted from -its original breadth by the subsequent populousness of the place; and -the ground here, being upon the edge of the hill, is much worn down, -as the first is heaped up, from the condition of former ages. But by -Newport gate before described, is another large and curious remnant of -Roman workmanship: this is called the Mint wall, and stands in a garden -in the north-west quarter of the city: it is still sixteen foot high, -above forty foot long, and turned again with an angle: on the left-hand -side behind it are houses built and marks of arches. What it was -originally cannot now be affirmed; the composition of it is thus: upon -squared stone of the common sort, but a little decayed through age, is -laid a triple course of Roman brick, which rises one foot in height; -the bricks seem to be a Roman foot long, and our seven inches broad: -above this three courses of stone, which rise about a foot more; then -three layers of brick, as before; upon that twelve courses of stone, -then brick and stone to the top: the scaffold-holes are left all the -way: the mortar is very hard, and full of little pebbles. - -[Illustration: 28 RELIGIOVS. - - Remains _of the Church at_ Kirsted Abbey _Linc. 1716_. - - _The Gate house of_ Tupholm Abbey _Linc._ - - The Ichnography of the Monastery of _Kirsted_ Linc. - - _Stukeley delin._] - -[Illustration: 88 LINDVM Colonia. - _4 Sep. 1722._ - - Josepho Banks Jun. Ar. _Tabulam_ D.D. Wˢ. Stukeley. - - _Stukeley del._.] - -[Illustration: 54 Worth Gate (_a Roman Work_) Canterbury - _6. Oct. 1722._] - -[Illustration: +Newport Gate+ at +Lincoln+ - Sept. 3. 1722. - _The Arch of Roman Work_ - - _Stukᵉley delin. & Amicissimo Conterraneo Mauritio Johnson Ar. - Interioris Templi J.C. offert._] - -[Sidenote: TAB. LIV] - -[Sidenote: 3.] - -But this city being happily seated for navigation of the river, and the -chief thoroughfare to the north, soon increased to that degree, that -the Romans were obliged to add another to it as big as the former: this -they did southward upon the declivity of the hill, and so tallied it to -the other, that the new side-walls answered in a parallel to the old, -and the most southern lay upon the river. Eastward the ditch without -is turned into a broad street called the Beast-market, and there below -Claskgate a great part of the old Roman wall is left, made of stones -piled sideways, first with one direction, then with another, as was -a common method with them: one piece of it is now eighty foot long, -eighteen high; a little bit of it lower down is twelve foot long, as -much high: between that gate upwards and the old city-wall, by the -Greestone stairs, is the old ditch to be seen, much talked of, but not -understood: it is called Weredyke. The people have a notion that the -river came up here, and that these stairs were a landing-place from -the water-side, and denominated from I know not what Grecian traders: -but this is utterly impossible in nature. To the west the ditch and -foundation of the wall is still left, though many times repaired and -demolished in the frequent sieges this town has sustained, especially -in the wars of Maud the empress: at the bottom of it, towards the -water, is a round tower called Lucy tower, and famous in her history. -This then was the state of this place in Roman times: the Foss and -Hermen-street entered the city at Stanbow, or the stoney arch; there -they parted: the Hermen-street went directly up the hill, and so full -north through Newport; the Foss, according to its natural direction, -ascended it obliquely on the eastern side without the ancient city, and -so proceeded to the sea coast north-east. - -[Sidenote: 4.] - -But still here were two more great additions to the length of this -city, and which stretched it out to an enormous bulk; the first -northwards above the hill: it is called Newport, or the new city, -500 paces long. This I apprehend to have been done in the reign of -the Saxon kings: it lies on both sides the Hermen-street, and was -fenced with a wall and ditch hewn out of the rock: at the two farther -corners were round towers and a gate, the foundations of which remain: -there were several churches and religious houses in this place; and -I suppose it was chiefly inhabited by Jews, who had settled here in -great numbers, and grown rich by trade: there is a well still called -Grantham’s well, from a child they ludicrously crucified and threw into -that well. - -[Sidenote: 5.] - -[78] After the Norman conquest, when a great part of the first city was -turned into a castle, I apprehend they added the last intake southward -in the angle of the Witham, and made a new cut, called Sinsil dike, on -the south and east side, for its security. The city then being of this -huge compass, gave occasion for that prophecy, as they call it, and -fancy to have been fulfilled in the year 1666: - - Lincoln _was_, London _is, and_ York _shall be - The fairest city of the three_. - -It is observable that the Normans could not well pronounce _Lincoln_, -but called it _Nichol_, as we find it in some old writers; and to this -day a part of _swan_ pool is called _nichol_ pool: in some places of -Lincolnshire the vulgar pronounce _little_, _nickle_, and some other -words of that sort. Though this place is much declined since those -times, yet of late it begins to flourish again very considerably. -The meaning of _grecian_ stairs I suppose borrowed from the Normans, -importing only stone steps (_grees_) as they appear at this day, a -commodious descent from the minster yard. Within this two years, two -new churches, large and fair, have been built at the charge of the -inhabitants, and a great many handsome dwelling-houses: trades and -manufactures too reflourish. - -[Illustration: 64·2ᵈ. +Roman Inscriptions+ - - I II - - D ~ M D·M·S - G ~ VALERIVS ~ G ~ F ~ CADIOI - GALERIA ~ VICTOR ~ NIAE~FOR - LVGDVNI~SIG~LEG~II~AVG~ TVNA -STP~XVII~ANNOR~XI.V.~ CV PIA~V~A XV -RA~AGENT~AMNIO~PERPITVO~B - _At Adel_ - _at Caerlion_ - - - III IV - - MARIE VIBIA - OFEIS◌̅CE IVCVN - NERIS IEIO DA - + VIPIO S C δ I I R AN XXX - + ER IIGMEIETRIPE HIC SEPVL - TA EST - DIS MANIBVS - NOMINE SACR _at Bathe_ - BRVSCI FILI CVIS - SENONI ET CARSS - VNAE CONIVGIS - EIVS ET QVINTIP - -_Upon Sᵗ Marys Steeple Lincoln_ - - - V VI - - D ~ M ~ C·GAVIO·L·F·STEL·SILVANO -IVLIAE CASTÆ TRIB·COH·II·VIGILVM·TRIB· -CONIVGI~VIX~ COH·XIII·VRB·TRIB·COH·XII· - ANN~XXXIII PRAETOR·DONIS.DONATO·A· - DIVO·CLAVDIO·BELLO·BRI -_at Cirencester~GlocestʳSh_ TANNICO - - _at Tours_ - - _Stukeley delin_ _I Harris Sculp_] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XXIX.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XVI.] - -[79] In this last part of the city, on both sides the Roman road, were -many funeral monuments of the old Romans; some of which they now dig -up, and doubtless much more when they first built upon this ground. I -saw a pit where they found a stone with an inscription, this summer: -through age and the workmen’s tools it was defaced, only small remains -of D. M. & VIX. ANN. XXX. such letters as showed its intent, with -carvings of palm-trees, and other things: this is behind the house -where the lord Hussey was beheaded for rebellion in the time of Henry -VIII. the great bow window through which he came upon the scaffold was -taken down this year: it stands over-against another stone building, -of an ancient model, said to be the palace of John of Gaunt, duke of -Lancaster, who lived here in royal state, and had the privilege of -coining: his arms are here carved in stone. Upon the steeple of St. -Mary’s church they have placed in the wall an ancient monumental stone, -with this imperfect inscription: - - DIS MANIBVS - NOMINI SACRI - BRVSCI FILI CIVIS - SENONI ET CARIS - UNAE CONIVGIS - EIUS ET QVINTIE. - -There is another obscure inscription upon the upper part of the stone, -but has been added since, and is christian. Upon the church-wall lies -an old stone by the conduit, which Leland takes notice of, and says is -Ranulf de Kyme. Immense are the Roman antiquities dug up about this -famous colony: nor has the perpetual turning up the ground exhausted -them. The late Dr. Primrose had a great collection: I remember to have -seen a fine glass urn in his possession, now with Martin Folkes, esq; -found near Newport gate; also a very large silver seal of one of the -Quincys earls of Lincoln, now with Nevil King, esq. Wm. Pownal, esq; -has many coins very well preserved, particularly a Carausus with his -wife on the same coin, which is a great rarity. I am in hopes he will -some time favour the learned with an accurate account of this place, as -it highly deserves. Upon the Roman road eastward are some barrows: many -urns, and the like, have been dug up about them, especially near the -stone pits, with earthen aqueducts, and all kinds of antiquities. Mr. -Pownal showed me a brass _armilla_, found with a corpse which possibly -was British.[80] Upon the road going to Staynton, is an hospital of St. -Giles, built by Remigius; and behind it are great cavities in the rock -under ground, which people fancied to be Roman catacombs, and affirmed -they had seen earthen and brazen pots, inscriptions and the like, -with many other strange stories: to search this matter thoroughly, -provided with torches, we traced them to the utmost corners, but found -them only quarries. Let us now survey the cathedral. It is far more -magnificent than any I have yet seen: there are two great gate-houses -or entrances to it from the west: the lower part of the front, and of -the two towers, are of Remigius his building, as is easily discoverable -by the colour of the stones, and by the manner of architecture: but -Alexander built the additions upon it, the body of the cathedral, the -choir and St. Mary’s tower, which once had a very lofty spire upon -it; a prodigious work for a single man, and that not the only one, -as appears by what we have mentioned of him. St. Hugh the Burgundian -built the east end, or St. Mary’s chapel, where he had a shrine; and -the chapter-house cieled with a beautiful stone roof, one pillar in the -middle. The cloysters and the library are fine: here are many books -and manuscripts, and an old leaden inscription of William d’Agincourt, -cousin to Remigius, already printed. Here are many bells, particularly -one remarkably large, called _Tom of Lincoln_, which takes up a whole -steeple to itself; probably consecrated to that great champion of the -church, St. Thomas of Canterbury, the first cathedral mentioned in -Bede; I suppose an humble building, and contained within the ancient -walls. Two Catharine-wheel windows, as called, at the ends of the -larger transepts, are remarkably fine for mullion-work and painted -glass. Here are great numbers of ancient brasses and monuments: -one I have engraven from a drawing procured by Browne Willys, esq; -Tab. 16. the stone only is left near the west door. To set down the -particularities of the church would require a volume. South of it, upon -the very brow of the hill, is the bishop’s palace, built by Robert -de Chesney, who gave two great bells likewise: bishop Bek and other -successors enlarged it to a magnificence equal with the cathedral: it -stands just south of the Roman wall; a very expensive work, for the -foundations of it reach, as it were, below hill: over this hung many -large bow windows of curious workmanship, looking over the tops of the -lower city into Nottinghamshire: the kitchen had seven chimneys in it: -the hall was stately: the gate-house remains intire, with coats of arms -of the founders. This palace was ruined in the time of the civil wars: -good part of it might be handsomely rebuilt without an extravagant -expence. - -In Leland’s time one of the stone crosses of queen Eleanor was here -standing in the market place: it were endless to enumerate the -religious houses, gates, and old buildings, that croud up every part -of the streets. Here were originally fifty two churches. I never saw -such a fund of antique speculations in any town in England: I heard -continually of coins and urns found all the country over, as at -Cathorp, Methringham, Nocton, &c. I found this inscription on a stone -in the stable wall of the Rein-deer inn. - -+*RANDOLF: DE: BORTON: GYT: ICY: DEUI: DE: SA: ALME: AYT: MERCY: -AMEN.* - -This castle of William the Conqueror’s is a large place, and -exceedingly strong with walls, ditches, keep, and towers: over against -it westward is an intrenchment made by king Stephen. - -Through the whole length of Lincolnshire, from north to south, in -a strait line runs a ledge of hills, that is, from Stanford to -Winteringham: the Romans, observing this, carried their road upon -it, and left the original stem of Fokingham. This high ground is -similar all along, having a steep descent westward, overlooking -Nottinghamshire, and is a rock of rag-stone quite through; the -stone is white, and rises in _strata_, thicker as deeper: the surface -is heathy. The river Witham, which rises on the west of this ridge, -must have run into the Humber, had not Nature, by her propensity of -drawing it eastward, as her declivities generally run, broke it off in -the middle by that great valley under Lincoln, and made a passage for -it into the estuary. Hence it is that the stone upon this western cliff -is full of sea-shells; for, when the great and universal deluge had -carried those inhabitants of the ocean into the mediterranean parts, by -the weight of their shells they were unapt to retire again along with -the waters, so were intercepted against this cliff, and received into -the nascent stone.[81] A remarkable antediluvian curiosity I procured -for the repository of the Royal Society, from these parts; being the -real skeleton of a crocodile, or some such animal, inclosed in a broad -flat stone. But now it is time to proceed. - -[Illustration: 29 _The Shrine of Sᵗ._ Hugh _the Burgundian_ Bishop _of_ - Lincoln. In the South Isle of the Cathedral there behind the Choir._ - - Reverendo Doctissimoqᵤₑ Laurentio Echard _dicata_. - - _Stukeley delin._ _F. Kirkall sculp._] - -[Illustration: 16 Sub marmore isto tenet hic tumulus ossa venerabilis - in Christo patris et dñi Witti Smith quond̃̃̃̃̃̃̃̃̃̃m̃̃̃̃̃̃̃̃̃̃̃̃̃ Eoventrens et Lichfeldens - ac deinde Lincolnien presulis qui obüt secundo die mentis Januarii - anno dñi millesimo quingentessimo trio decimo cñj̃ aĩe ppicietur qĩ - pius et misicors in die tribulat peccata remittit - - Cestrensis presul post Lincolniensis Hmato Cleriuam multos cis - mare transqᵤₑ aluit. Qui utriusqq fuit prefectus Principis aulæ - Fundavitqᵤₑ duas perpetuando Scholas. aulasqᵤₑ sumptu hujus renovata - est Cnea Ehrste hic situs est Anime parce benigne sue.] - -[Illustration: 87 AGELOCVM. _Sep. 1722._ - - Erudito Willo Ella A. M. vieario _de_ Rampton vicinam _Stationem. - d.d. Wˢ. Stukeley_] - -The Hermen-street going northward from Lincoln is scarce diminished, -because its materials are hard stone, and the heath on both sides -favours it: three miles off, near a watering-place, a branch divides -from it with an obtuse angle to the left, which goes towards Yorkshire. -We suppose the Romans at first had an erroneous idea of the island of -Britain, and thought its northern parts in a more easterly longitude -than by experience they found; and thus in Ptolemy’s maps the length -of Scotland is represented running out enormously that way: but when -Agricola, in his conquests northward, had discovered that mistake, -and that the passage over the Humber was very incommodious for the -march of soldiers, he struck out this new road, as another branch of -the Hermen-street, by way of Doncaster, from thence observing its -natural direction northward. When we turn ourselves here, and look -back to Lincoln, we see the road butts upon the western spires of the -cathedral: and when from thence you survey the road, it is an agreeable -prospect; your eye being in the middle line of its whole length to the -horizon. I had a mind to pursue this branch through Lincolnshire as -far as the first station, _Agelocum_: this ridge is likely to be of -an eternal duration, as wholly out of all roads: it proceeds directly -over the heath, then descends the cliff through the rich country at -bottom, between two hedge-rows, by the name of Tilbridge lane. When you -view it on the brink of the hill, it is as a visto or avenue running -through a wood or garden very strait, and pleasanter in prospect than -when you come to travel it; wanting a Roman legion to repair it. You -pass through Stretton and Gate-Burton, so called from the road, and by -a ferry cross over the Trent, which lands you at - -[Sidenote: +Agelocum.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. LXXXVII.] - -Littleborough, _Agelocum_, or, as by later times corrupted, with a -_sibilus_, into _Segelocum_.[82] This is a small village three miles -above Ganesborough, just upon the edge of the water, and in an angle. -_Agel auk_, _frons aquæ_, is a pertinent etymology: it seems only to -have been environed with a ditch, and of a square form, and the water -ran quite round it; for to the west, where White’s bridge is, a watery -valley hems it in: so that it was a place sufficiently strong. The -church stands upon the highest ground. The Trent has washed away part -of the eastern side of the town. Foundations and pavements are visible -in the bank. Mr. Roger Gale, passing by, once found an urn there, with -a coin of Domitian’s: great numbers of coins have been taken up in -ploughing and digging: they called them swine-pennies, because those -creatures sometimes root them up, and the inhabitants take little -care to save them. I saw a few there: the reverend Mr. Ella, vicar of -Rampton hard by, has collected several, and some valuable, such as the -following, of which he sent me an account. - -A consecration piece of Vespasian. Cos. IIII. - -IMP CAES NERVAE TRAIANO AVG GER DAC PMTRP COSVPP ℞ SPQR OPTIMO -PRINCIPI. The mole at Ancona. - -IMP CÆS NER TRAIANO OPTIMO AVG GER DAC ℞ SENATVS POPVLVSQ ROMANVS. -Fortune sitting with a _cornucopia_ in one hand, a rudder in the other, -FORT RED SC. - -IMP CAES. &c. as the second. ℞ SPQR. a genius sitting on trophies, with -a spear in the left hand, a _victoriola_ in its right. - -IMP CAESAR TRAIANVS HADRIANVS ℞ PONT. MAX. TRP. Britannia sitting with -a shield, a spear in her left hand, a laurel in her right, the right -foot upon a rock BRITANNIA SC. - -CONSTANTINVS AVG. ℞ SOLI INVICTO COMITI. Another, ℞ ALEMANNIA DEVICTA. - -Several of those struck about Constantius’s time with a galeate head -on one side, and URBS ROMA ℞ a wolf suckling Romulus and Remus: -others, CONSTANTINOPOLIS: many more, of Aurelius, Faustina, Gallienus, -Tetricus, Victorinus, Carausius, Constantine, Constantius, Crispus, -Allectus, and the lower Empire. About forty years ago, when the -inclosures between the town and bridge were ploughed up, abundance of -these coins were found, many intaglias of agate, cornelian, the finest -coral-coloured urns and patera’s, some wrought in _basso relievo_, -the workman’s name generally impressed on the inside of the bottom: -a _discus_ with an emperor’s head embossed. In 1718, they dug up two -altars, handsomely moulded, which are set as piers in a wall on the -side of the steps that lead from the water-side to the inn: on one is -the remnant of an inscription, LIS ARAM DD. these are of the course -grit-stone. Many very little coins are found here, like flatted pease; -they call them mites. Mr. Hardy has a large urn with the face of a -woman on the out-side. In this same field near White’s bridge are great -foundations of building: coins are often found too at the lowest edge -of the water, when the tide is gone off, and in dry seasons. On the -east side of the river has been a camp. Returning by Tilbridge lane, -upon the top of the heath is a spring, which they say flows and abates -with the tide in the Trent, though five miles off: the like is reported -of divers others hereabouts. - -From the place where the roads branch out, before spoken of, I -proceeded on the Hermen-street, northward, to Spittle on the street. -There are milliary stones set upon the road all the way: it is very -delightful riding, being wholly champaign, or heath. Of these stones I -believe some are Roman, others later crosses, perhaps to supply their -place: some _tumuli_ scattered here and there. This place no doubt was -a mansion, because a little beck runs through it, arising hard by: -and it is ten miles from Lincoln; a convenient distance. I took the -bearing of the road just north and south. Here is an hospital, said to -be founded 1308, and great foundations all around, some of which are -probably Roman. At present the village consists of two farm-houses, a -chapel, an inn, and a sessions-house: three or four _tumuli_ near the -town. Upon the chapel is a silly Latin inscription: - - _fui anno domini_ 1398 } - _non fui_ 1594 } _dom. dei & pauperum_ - _sum_ 1616 } - _Qui hanc Deus hunc destruet._ - -[Illustration: 16·2ᵈ. _The Scite of the Roman town at_ Wintringham. - _24. Iuly 1724._ +Abontrvs.+ - - _Stukeley delin._] - -Upon the sessions-house, - - _Hæc domus odit, amat, punit, conservat, honorat, - Equitiam, pacem, crimina, jura, bonos._ 1620. - -Underneath, a coat palè of six, on a bend three annulets, with the -arms of Ulster: over the door, _Fiat justitia_ 1619. All this whole -country is a quarry just beneath the surface. Beyond Spittle woodland -begins: by Broughton, a vein of deep sand well planted with coneys. At -all these towns upon the Roman road, coins and antiquities are found; -Hibberstow, Gainsthorp, Broughton, Roxby, &c. at Sandton has been a -Roman pottery: between Scalby and Manton is a Roman camp: in Appleby -is a place called Julian’s Bower: at Kirton, John of Gaunt had a seat: -twenty-nine towns round about held of him in socage. I take Broughton -to be another station, because of its name, and that a brook runs -through it; so that the interval between Lincoln and Wintringham is -conveniently divided into three parts, ten miles each, by Spittle and -Broughton, the whole being thirty Roman miles. Thornholm, a mitred -priory: there is but another in England, Spalding. Risby and Gokewell, -two nunneries; some small remains of both. To the left is Normanby, -where the late duke of Buckingham was born, and whence his title. - -[Sidenote: +Wintringham+ Ro. _town_.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. [i XVI]. 2d Vol.] - -We kept the road all the way, though sometimes it passes over little -bogs, and at last about Winterton is inclosed: it terminates in some -arable, where it is well nigh lost a mile south of Wintringham. -Upon a rising ground at the end of the Roman road, a little to the -right, and half a mile east of the present Wintringham, stood the -old Roman town, of which they have a perfect knowledge, and ploughed -up great foundations within memory: it is now a common, skirted by -the marshes upon the Humber: the soil hereabouts is clay. This site -of Old Wintringham, as called, was almost inclosed with water in its -first condition, having only a slip of land towards the Roman road -as an entrance: the valley westward between it and the town is now -called the Old Haven, where three elm-trees stand: the east is bounded -by the mouth of the Ankham, which I suppose is _ang_ in British, -broad, _avon_, river, from its broad marshes. The city was ploughed -up six years ago, and great numbers of antiquities found, now lost; -great pavements, chimney-stones, &c. often breaking their ploughs: in -several places they found streets made of sea-sand and gravel. It is -a _peninsula_ between the Humber and Ankham, and had most opportunely -a fine spring on the east side, which no doubt was embraced by the -Romans: it is likewise a great rarity in nature, arising so near the -sea in a clayey marsh: there is stone-work left round it, and an iron -ladle to drink at, which is done frequently by travellers, as with a -religious necessity. Several intakes have been made beyond this city in -memory of man, which drives the Humber farther off, and increases the -marsh: it is half a mile between it and old town. The old haven-mouth -is called Flashmire. This place is over-against Brough, the Roman -town on the Yorkshire shore; but it is rather more eastward: so that -with the tide coming in they ferried over very commodiously thither, -and even now they are forced to take the tide. _Buck-bean trefoil_ -grows upon all the bogs hereabouts. The bearing of the end of the -Roman way is precisely north and south, as at Lincoln; so that it is -a true meridian line from the west end of the cathedral. The present -Wintringham is a dirty poor place, but still a corporation; and the -mayor is chosen only out of one street, next the old town, where was a -chapel: the bell of it now hangs in a wooden frame by the pillory, and -makes a most ridiculous appearance. Here is still a ferry from a small -creek kept open by some freshes; it was ill judged of travellers to -desert the old Roman way and ferry, and turn the road to Barton, (where -the Humber is much broader and very dangerous) for no other reason but -because it is somewhat nearer and over-against Hull: but the saving -three miles riding does not compensate for the time or hazard of so -uncouth a passage. I am persuaded the old name of this station was -_Abontrus_, the same as the name of the river, whence they have formed -the mimic Wintringham. Here is a vast jaw-bone or rib of a whale, that -has lain time out of mind, like that at St. James’s. Wintringham church -stands on the end of the Lincolnshire _Alpes_. Well may the Humber take -its name from the noise it makes: my landlord, who is a sailor, says -in a high wind it is incredibly great and terrible, like the crash and -dashing together of ships. The Roman way beyond the Humber at Brough is -continued in Yorkshire; but of its progress that way I can say nothing -at present, this being the northern boundary of my expeditions. - -[Sidenote: +Aquis.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XVII. 2d Vol.] - -From the termination of the Hermen-street, just by the knoll of old -Wintringham, and the hedge on the side of a common, a lesser vicinal -branch of a Roman road goes directly west to Aukborough, passing over -Whitton brook. All the ground hereabouts terminates at the Humber -in longitudinal ridges going north and south, and all steep like a -cliff to the west, plain and level eastward. Aukborough I visited, -because I suspected it the _Aquis_ of the Romans, in Ravennas, and I -was not deceived; for I presently descried the Roman _castrum_.[83] -There are two little _tumuli_ upon the end of the road entering the -town. The Roman castle is square, three hundred foot each side, the -entrance north: the west side is objected to the steep cliff hanging -over the Trent, which here falls into the Humber; for this castle is -very conveniently placed in the north-west angle of Lincolnshire, as a -watch-tower over all Nottinghamshire and Yorkshire, which it surveys. -Hence you see the Ouse coming from York, and downward the Humber mouth, -and all over the isle of Axholm. Much salt-marsh is gained from all -these rivers, though now and then they reclaim and alter their course. -Then they discover the subterraneous trees lodged here at the Deluge -in great abundance, along the banks of all the three rivers: the wood -is hard and black, and sinks like a stone. Here are likewise other -plentiful reliques of the Deluge in the stones, viz. sea-shells of -all sorts, where a _virtuoso_ might furnish his cabinet: sometimes a -stone is full of one sort of shell, sometimes of another; sometimes, -of little globules like the spawn of fishes: I viewed them with great -pleasure. I am told the camp is now called Countess Close, and they say -a countess of Warwick lived there; perhaps owned the estate;[84] but -there are no marks of building, nor I believe ever were. The _vallum_ -and ditch are very perfect: before the north entrance is a square plot -called the Green, where I suppose the Roman soldiers lay _pro castris_: -in it is a round work, formed into a labyrinth, which they call -Julian’s Bower. The church is of good stone, has a square tower, but -the choir ruinous, excluded by a wooden partition: between it and the -way to the marshes, a good spring rising out of the cliff. I dare say -no antiquary ever visited this place since the Romans left it; for the -people were perfectly ignorant of any matters we could inquire about; -and as to finding coins, &c. they would make us no other answer than -laughing at us: but I heard since, from other good hands, that they -have been found here in great numbers. - -[Illustration: 17·2ᵈ. _Prospect of Aukborough_ Aquis _of the Romans 24. - July 1724._ - - _Stukeley delin:_ _E. Kirkall sculp:_] - -[Sidenote: +Julian’s Bower.+] - -Because I have frequently found these places called _Julian’s Bower_, -both at Roman towns and others, but especially very common in -Lincolnshire, I considered what should be the meaning of them, and -shall here give my thoughts about it. They are generally upon open -green places, by the side of roads or rivers, upon meadows and the like -near a town: the name often remains, though the place be altered and -cultivated; and the lovers of antiquity, especially of the inferior -class, always speak of them with great pleasure, and as if there were -something extraordinary in the thing, though they cannot tell what: -very often they are called _Troy town_. What generally appears at -present is no more than a circular work, made of banks of earth, in -the fashion of a maze or labyrinth; and the boys to this day divert -themselves with running in it one after another, which leads them by -many windings quite through and back again. - -Upon a little reflection I concluded that this is the ancient Roman -game; and it is admirable that both name and thing should have -continued through such a diversity of people; though now it is well -nigh perished, since the last age has discouraged the innocent and -useful sports of the common people, by an injudicious and unnecessary -zeal for religion, which has drove them into worse methods of -amusement. I imagine too this was a practice of the ancient Britons, -many of which were of Phrygian extract, coming from the borders of -Thrace; therefore derived it from the same fountain as the Romans: -this was upon their _maii campi_; but I shall not speak of them here: -and the Turks, I apprehend, learnt it hence; for it is their diversion -too. As to the name _bower_, it signifies not an arbor, or pleasant -shady retirement, in this place; but _borough_, or any work made with -ramparts of earth, as camps and the like: and it is my thoughts, -many works, which have been taken for camps, were only made for this -purpose; whereof two I met with in this journey, that at Ashwel, and -Maiden Bower near Dunstable. The name of _Julian_ undoubtedly refers -to _Julus_ the son of Æneas, who first brought it into Italy, as is -admirably described by Virgil in his V. Æneid. and kept up by the -Romans with great pomp and annual festivity: Augustus was particularly -fond of it, and took it as a compliment to his family. That they call -these places _Troy town_, proves the same. Hear the poet: - - _Hunc morem hos cursus atque hæc certamina primus - Ascanius, longam muris cum cingeret Albam - Rettulit, & priscos docuit celebrare Latinos. - Quo puer ipse modo, secum quo Troia pubes. - Albani docuere suos, hinc maxima porro - Accepit Roma & patrium servavit honorem: - Trojaque nunc pueri Trojanum dicitur agmen._ - - This game long since, this martial exercise - Ascanius brought, when Alba’s walls he rear’d. - Whence the old Latins celebrate the same, - As he a lad, with him the Trojan youth. - The Albans taught it theirs: from them great Rome - Learnt it, and to their country’s honour call - The game _Troy town_, the boys the _Trojan band_. - -I conceive this game was of two sorts; that performed on foot; that -on horse-back, or in chariots: the intent of both was to exercise the -youth in warlike activity, for it was a sort of mock fight: that -on foot was the _Pyrrhic_ dance. Suetonius says, _lusus ipse quem -vulgo Pyrrhicum appellant Troja vocatur_. If we carry it up to its -first original, we must affirm it was invented by the _Corybantes_, -_Idei dactyli_, _Curetes_, whose institution, when confirmed among -the Romans, was continued by the priests called _Salii_, dancing in -armour, and clashing their weapons together with some sort of concert. -Likewise the real soldiers had the same festival, which they called -_armilustrium_, celebrated on the 19. Octob. of which Varro gives us -an account _de lingua Lat._ Suetonius mentions it in _Tiberio_, c. 72. -This, whether performed on foot or horse-back, by children, priests -or soldiers, was manifestly the same thing: their gestures, turnings, -returnings, knots and figures, their assaults, retreat, and the like, -were aptly represented by mazes and labyrinths; which very comparison -Virgil uses. - - _Ut quondam Cretâ fertur labyrinthus in altâ, - Parjetibus textum cæcis iter, ancipitemque - Mille viis habuisse dolum, qua signa sequendi - Falleret indeprensus & irremeabilis error._ - - Such was in Crete the labyrinth of yore, - In crooked tracks immur’d, a thousand ways - Doubtful and dark: whence the return obscure, - Inextricable, in endless mazes lost. - -It is likely these works of ours, made in the turf, were cast up, in -order to teach the children the method of it. That on foot is elegantly -described by Claudian _de_ VI. _consul. Honorii_, v. 622. - - _Armatos hic sæpe choros, certaque vagandi - Textas lege fugas, inconfusosque recursus, - Et pulchras errorum artes, jucundaque Martis - Cernimus: insonuit cum verbere signa magister. - Mutatosque edunt pariter tot pectora motus, - In latus allisis clypeis, aut rursus in altum - Vibratis. grave parma sonat mucronis acuti - Murmure, & umbonum pulsu modulante resultans - Ferreus alterno concentus clauditur ense._ - - Here have I seen the armed rings revolve - In artful flights, in order then advance, - Attack, retire in all the forms of war, - Their eye still on the signal of the chief; - Then face about, ringing their brazen shields - Against their corslets, or uplifted high - Threaten the ecchoing skies; whilst steely blades - Harsh murmur, and the clanging targets sound - Alternate struck, the martial concert close. - -The equestrian games of this denomination required more room and -_apparatus_ for spectators: therefore probably they fenced in a larger -space of ground, of a circular or oval form, with a _vallum_, to keep -the spectators at proper distance, and upon which they might more -commodiously behold the sport. This I suppose was provided for by those -bowers or burroughs mentioned, where there was no ditch behind; for -that would be dangerous, if the people crouding one another, as is -natural on those occasions, should thrust the outermost from such an -elevation: so that they were a larger sort of amphitheatres, or circs: -and this seems expressly intimated by the great Mantuan in those verses, - - _Munera principio ante oculos circoque locantur - In medio—— - Et tuba commissos medio canit aggere ludos._ - -These games on horseback he thus describes: - - _Olli discurrere pares, atque agmina terni - Diductis solvere choris, rursusque vocati - Convertere vias, infestaque tela tulere. - Inde alios ineunt cursus aliosque recursus - Adversis spatiis, alternosque orbibus orbes - Impediunt, pugnæque cient simulachra sub armis. - Et nunc terga fugâ nudant; nunc spicula vertunt - Infensi, factâ pariter nunc pace feruntur._ - - They ride by pairs: the martial cavalcade - Triple battalions form, which open first - With adverse front, and show of dreadful fight. - Then new careers they take, wheeling about - In various circles and self-ending orbs, - In all the mazy arts and forms of war; - Now turn their backs, and now afresh attack: - At length in peaceful order all march off. - -It seems that our tournaments, so much in fashion till queen -Elizabeth’s time, are remainders of these warlike diversions; and the -triple order, by which they were conducted, may possibly be imitated in -some degree by the common figure in dancing, called the _hedge_, or the -_hay_; both which I suppose are derived from the Saxon _hæg_, perhaps -from the Latin _agger_. - -We passed by the spring of old Wintringham and the Marsh at the mouth -of the Ankham, which is a vast tract of land left by the sea; and came -to Feriby sluice, a stately bridge of three arches, with sluices for -voidance of the water into the sea, but now broken down and lying in -dismal ruins by the negligence of the undertakers: whence travellers -are obliged to pass the river in a paltry short boat, commanded by a -little old deaf fellow with a long beard: into this boat you descend, -by the steep of the river, through a deep mirey clay, full of stones -and stakes; nor is the ascent on the other side any better, both -dangerous and difficult. This, with the hideous ruins of the bridge, -like the picture of hell gates in Milton, and the terrible roar of the -water passing through it, fitly represented Virgil’s description of -Charon’s ferry: nor would a poet wish for a better scene to heighten -his fancy, were he to paint out the horrors of the confines of hell. - - _Hinc via Tartarei quæ fert Acherontis ad undas. - Turbidus hic cœno vastaque voragine gurges - Æstuat, atque omnem Cocyto eructat arenam. - Portitor has horrendus aquas & flumina servat - Terribili squallore Charon, cui plurima mento - Canicies inculta jacet_—— Æn. vi. - - Hence the way leads to Fereby forlorn, - Where Ankham’s oozy flood with hideous roar - Tears up the sands and sluices ruin’d vaults. - A squalid Charon the dread ferry plies - In leaky scull, whose furrow’d cheeks lie deep - With hoary beard insconc’d—— - -When we had mounted the precipice again from the water, and paid our -naul to the inexorable ferryman, we had several clayey lakes to ride -over, unpassable in winter. Two roads[85] lead you to the town, a sorry -ragged place, where upon the stocks is wrote, _Fear God, honour the -King_. The church is set respecting no points of the compass, and just -under the side of a precipice, so that you may almost leap from it -upon the steeple: when we climbed the hill, it was a long while before -we could find the way to Barton; and scarce could the people direct -us to it, though but two miles off: at length, after wandering some -time backward and forward, we hit upon the road, and, as men escaped -the Stygian pool, with pleasure surveyed Barton, riding all the way -through corn-fields, overlooking the Humber and Hull. Barton from hence -makes a pretty prospect, having two churches, several mills, and the -houses pleasantly intermixed with trees. This hill is wholly chalk, and -answered on the opposite shore by another of the same nature. This is -at present the passage across the Humber to Yorkshire, and we pleased -ourselves at this time only with the distant view of it, and the -neighbouring Hull: we could see the flag upon the castle. - -[Sidenote: +Barrow.+ British _temple_.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XVIII. 2d Vol.] - -At Barrow we were surprised with a castle, as the inhabitants call it, -upon the salt marsh: upon view of the works I wondered not that they -say it was made by Humber when he invaded Britain, in the time of the -Trojan Brutus; for it is wholly dissonant from any thing I had seen -before: but after sufficient _examen_ I found it to be a temple of the -old Britons, therefore to be referred to another occasion. A little -eastward hence we visited Thornton college, a great abbey founded by -William le Gros earl of Albemarle 1139, the gate-house is very perfect; -a vast tower, or castle, wherein all methods of Gothic architecture for -offence and defence are employed: there is a great ditch before it, -across which a bridge with walls on each hand, and arches that support -a broad battlement to defend the access: before it two low round -towers: this stands oblique to the building, like the bridge at the -tower-gate, the better to keep off assailants by arrows shot through -many narrow loop-holes: there was a portcullis at the great gate, and -behind it another gate of oak: there are no windows in front: over it -are three old clumsy statues in as ordinary niches: a woman seeming a -queen, or the virgin Mary: to the right, a man with a lamb; I suppose, -St. John baptist: to the left, a bishop or abbot with a crosier: the -lamb is introduced in several other places: in the battlements above -the gate are the figures of men cut in stone, as looking down: on both -sides this tower goes a strong wall embattled, supported by internal -arches, with towers at proper distances: along the ditch within the -gate are spacious rooms and stair-cases of good stone and rib-work -arches. Upon taking down an old wall there, they found a man with a -candlestick, table and book, who was supposed to have been immured. -When you enter the spacious court, a walk of trees conducts you to the -ruins of the church: part of the south-east corner is left between the -choir and transept, and behind that some of the chapter-house, which -was octagonal: the whole plan of the church is easily discoverable, -and round about it the foundations of a quadrangle, and lodgings, to -the south of which now stands a dwelling-house, which I suppose was -the abbot’s lodge: here are great moats and fish-ponds, subterraneous -vaults and passages; the whole monastery being encompassed by a deep -ditch and high rampart, to secure the religious from robbers, because -near the sea. A mile east of Thornton are the ruins of another great -castle, called Kelingholme. In Goswel parish northward is Burham, -a chapel now become a farm-house, which belonged to the monastery: in -the same parish, near the Humber, is Vere court, which belonged to the -ancient family of that name. Good land hereabouts, well wooded: they -find Roman coins all about. Two miles west of Thornton is a great Roman -camp, called Yarborough, which surveys the whole hundred denominated -from it, and all the sea-coast. Vast quantities of Roman coins have -been found here: Mr. Howson, of Kenington hard by, has pecks of them, -many of Licinius.[86] - -[Illustration: 18·2ᵈ. _Inside view of Thornton College gate house July - 26 1724_ - - _Stukeley del._ _I Harris Scul._] - -[Illustration: 19·2ᵈ. _Prospect of_ Caster Lincolnshʳ: July 26 1724. A - Roman Town._ - - _Stukeley del:_ A. _a piece of the Roman wall of the castle_. B. _the - Spring_. C. _another piece of the Roman wall_. _E. Kirkall sculp:_] - -[Sidenote: +Yarborough.+ Ro. _town_.] - -Hence we journeyed to Caster, upon another ridge of the downs, running -north and south, slaunting off eastward to the sea, and steep all the -way westward, reaching from the Humber to the Witham below Lincoln: a -vein of sand again, and alike stocked with rabbets, answering to that -on the other side the Ankham at Sandton, but a little more southward. -From the hill just above Caster you have an admirable prospect both -east and west; this way to the mouth of the Humber, the Spurnhead -promontory, the Sunk island, and the whole country of Holderness in -Yorkshire; that way, all the sea-coast of Lincoln stretched out in a -long bow, jutting into the sea, full of creeks and harbours: south and -west the whole county of Lincoln lies under the eye; but the height of -Lincoln minster particularly pleases, which is here seen by the edge of -the cliff south of Caster, and presents a very romantic landscape. - -[Sidenote: +Caster.+ Ro. _town_.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XIX. 2d Vol.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XX. 2d Vol.] - -The town of Caster is half way down this western steep; and in nothing -more, that I have seen, did the Romans show their fine genius for -choice of a station, than this: there is a narrow promontory juts -forward to the west, being a rock full of springs, level at top; -and on this did they build their town. One may easily guess at the -original Roman scheme upon which it was founded, and now in the main -preserved: this whole town takes in three squares of full 300 feet -each, two of which are allotted to the castle, the third is an _area_ -lying to the east before it, between it and the hill, which is still -the market-place: the streets are all set upon these squares, and at -right angles: at each end are two outlets, going obliquely at the -corners to the country round about, two above, two descending the hill -thus distributed: the north-east to the Humber mouth, south-east to -Louth, north-west to Wintringham, south-west to Lincoln. What is the -meaning of this place being called _Thongcaster_,[87] among some others -in England, I know not; one in Kent: but it gave occasion to the same -fanciful report of its original, as queen Dido’s founding Carthage -upon as much ground as she could incompass with an ox’s hide cut into -_thongs_; and a person in the town told me there was an history of -the building Caster in _Virgil_, and offered to show it me. I should -not have thought this worth mentioning, had not Mr. Camden spoke of -it, as if he believed it to be true: but there can be no doubt that -this castle was built long before Hengist’s time; for I saw enough -of the old Roman wall to evince its founders: one great piece stands -on the verge of the church-yard; another by a house: there are more -behind the school-house in the pastures, and I have met with many -men that have dug at its foundations in several other places: it is -built of white rag-stone laid sometimes sideways, sometimes flat, in -mortar exceedingly hard, full of pebbles and sand; nor is it mixed to -any fineness: so that I conjecture it was the method of the Romans -to pour the mortar on liquid, as soon as the lime was slaked: thus -the heat and moisture, struggling together, created a most strict -union or attraction between the lime and stone, the motion favouring -their approximation; and the lime, no doubt, being made of the same -stone, promoted a more intimate union between the cement and the hard -materials by similitude of parts. I suppose this narrow tongue of land -was thus encompassed with a wall quite to the market-place, objecting -only its end to the plain before the hill, the rest standing upon the -stoney precipice. From under the castle-walls almost quite round rise -many quick springs; but Syfer spring is most famous, having now four -fluxes of water from between the joints of great stones laid flat like -a wall; and joined together with lead, probably first by the Romans, -for it is under their wall; shaded over with trees very pleasantly: -this is the morning and evening rendezvous of the servant-maids, where -consequently intelligence is given of all domestic news: they say, -within memory it ran much quicker, so that the water projected three -or four foot from the wall; others say, that originally it ran in one -stream like the sheet of a cascade. Syfer spring, no doubt, is the -Saxon _syfer_, pure, clean, as the stream here deserves to be called. -There is a place by the fold, south-west of the church, still called -Castle-hill, where many bodies have been dug up. I am inclinable to -think the meaning of _Thong-castle_ to be fetched from _Thane Degen_, -Saxonicè, _miles_, _præfectus_, analogous to the Latin _comes_.[88] -Here it is likely our Saxon ancestors placed a garrison of troops to -secure this country, as they conquered from the Roman Britons. In the -church is a monumental _effigies_, in stone, of a knight of the name -of Hundon; another, of a lady; another, of a knight of St. John of -Jerusalem, cross-legged. - -In Snarford church some fine monuments, in alabaster, of the family of -St. Paul’s. Return we now to Lindum. - - _Sol medium cœli conscenderat igneus orbem - Cum muros arcemque procul & rara domorum - Tecta vides, modo quæ Romana potentia cœlo - Æquavit_—— +Virg.+ Æ. viii. - -A mile north upon the Foss is a _tumulus_ of hard stone, called the -Castle. - -From hence I determined to proceed to London all the way on the Roman -road, which perhaps has not been so scrupulously travelled upon for -this thousand years: the intent, which I executed, was to perform the -whole sixth journey in Antoninus his Itinerary; of which I shall give -as complete an account as can be expected, considering how totally most -of the stations here are erased, and that I was resolved so far to -imitate an ancient traveller, as to dine and lie at a Roman town all -the way if possible, and sometimes in danger of faring as meanly as a -Roman soldier: nor could I always readily say, - - _Longum iter hic nobis minuit mutatio crebra, - Mansio sub noctem claudit ubique diem._ - -Add to this, that the whole was new to me; that I had almost every -place to find out; that I was alone, and had no other guide than what -Mr. Gale has pointed out to us, who is the first that hit upon the true -notion of this road: and I doubt not but the reader’s candour will -overlook the errors or imperfections of this simple narration, of what -I could observe myself, and fish out from the uncouth relations of -the country people, who, for one half of the way, had never heard of -enquiries of this sort since any memory, and were too apt to be morose -upon that occasion, thinking I had some design upon their farms in my -inquisitiveness. - -[Illustration: 20·2ᵈ. Syfer Spring _at Caster in Lincolnshʳ. July 26. 1724. (a - Roman Work.)_ - - _Stukeley delin._ _E. Kirkall fe._] - -[Illustration: 21·2ᵈ. _Prospect of_ Crocolana _from Potter hill. - Sept. 7. 1722._ - - A. _Brough the Roman City._ B. _Newark._ C. _the cliff by the Trent._ - D. _Potter hill._ - - _Stukeley delin._ _E. Kirkall sculp._] - -[Sidenote: _Foss_ road.] - -This journey proceeds from Lincoln upon the great Foss road, as it -tends to the Bath quite through Nottinghamshire and Leicestershire (but -most terribly defaced) till it meets with and crosses (having gone -sixty miles) the great Watling-street coming from Chester, and going -to Dover, at High-cross in Warwickshire: hence to London, about ninety -miles more, I went upon this Watling-street, which completes that -journey of the Itinerary. - -[Sidenote: +Crocolana.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XXI. 2d Vol.] - -I apprehend the _Foss_ is the name transmitted through the British, -which comes from _digging_, as being an artificial road; whence they -are often called _dikes_, a word of contrary significations, as the -Latin _altus_.[89] Descending southwards, where the Foss parts with the -Hermen-street below Lincoln, by the abbey without the most southern -gate, and passing over the river Witham by Bracebridge, before it comes -to Lincoln; I soon perceived myself upon the Foss road, by its strait -ridge carried over the barren moory ground, by a mill near Stickham. -Hard by lies a stone cross of good height, of one piece, vulgarly -called Robin Hood’s Whetstone upon the Foss, and is called sometimes -the three-mile stone. The elevation of the road is still preserved, -the common road going round about: it is much overgrown with goss, -and the moor but thinly so; its strait length easily distinguishable -for that reason: it butts a good deal to the east of Lincoln. Between -Bracebridge and its union with the Hermen way, some pavement is left -of flag-stone set edgewise: the road beyond the moor goes through -the inclosures of Hikeham and Thorp, then enters Morton lane, very -pleasantly set on both sides with woods full of game.[90] And so -journeying to the space of about twelve Roman miles, I found Collingham -on my right hand: there is a high barrow or _tumulus_ called Potters -hill, where they say was a Roman pottery: it stands upon an eminence -commanding a prospect both ways upon the road. Half a mile farther is -Brough, the undoubted _Crocolana_ of the Romans: it is three miles -North of Newark. Great plenty of wild Saffron grows hereabouts; whence -I once thought the name came, signifying the saffron field, from the -Celtic word, a field or inclosure (_lhan._) In the later times of the -empire, when they shortened words, it was called _Colana_; and some -critic restoring _Croco_ to it, doubled the second syllable; whence it -is found in Antoninus his Itinerary, _Crococolanum_: but I judge Mr. -Baxter’s derivation of it is right, _ericetum pulchrum_: the ground is -very woody and pleasant, and full of goss or heath, in Welsh _grûg_. -From _Colana_, Collinghams, two miles off, probably had their name,[91] -springing up from its ruins, as well as Newark, the Saxons approaching -nearer the water side; the Trent and the Foss road being neglected, -which supported the Roman town by travellers chiefly. Collinghams -stand upon a mere or rivulet, abounding with springs called the Fleet, -running into the Trent. The lands at Collingham belong to Peterborough -church; probably the gift of some king:[92] they have a report, that -one arch of South Collingham church came from Brough, which is -probably true of the whole: they say Collingham was a market-town -before Newark; and that Brough was a famous place in time of the Danes, -who destroyed it in Edmund Ironside’s days. Danethorp is hard by, the -seat lately of lady Grey. - -At Brough no Roman token visible, but the remarkable straitness of all -the roads and by-lanes thereabouts: the city has been most perfectly -levelled by the plough, so that the mark of ridge and furrow remains -in the very road: the hedge-rows were planted since. Were it not for -many distinguishing tokens, one may be apt to conclude as Floras did, -_laborat annalium fides ut Veios fuisse credamus_. They say here was -a church upon a place called chapel-yard, and a font was once taken -up there. The old landlady at the little ale-house, which is the only -house there, till Thomas Cope’s and another were lately built, says, -that where her fire-place is, the cross once stood; and that the whole -is fairy ground, and very lucky to live on. There have been many -Roman coins dug up here, and all the way between it and Newark:[93] I -bought a large brass _Faustina junior_, lately found in the corn-field -over-against the ale-house: in digging too they find great foundations, -for half a mile together, on each side the road, with much rusty iron, -iron ore and iron cinders; so that it is probable here was an eminent -Roman forge. Across the road was a vast foundation of a wall, and part -still remains: out of one hole they showed me, has been dug up ten or -fifteen load of stone; so that it should seem to have been a gate: the -stones at the foundation are observed to be placed edgewise, and very -large ones, but not of a good sort: this was the method the Romans -justly thought most convenient, in this springy soil; for the springs -rise here, all about, within two foot of the surface. They told me some -very large copper Roman coins have been found here, and silver too, and -many pots, urns, bricks, &c. they call the money Brough pennies. The -earl of Stanford is lord of the manor, and all is copy-hold, probably -originally in the crown. The country people have a notion that the Foss -road is the oldest in England, and that it was made by William the -Conqueror. This is all that I could learn of this city, which I thought -no contemptible gleaning from the shipwreck of time; for - - _Jam seges est ubi Troja fuit_—— - -is true of all the stations of this whole journey, more or less; and I -was glad when any part of the harvest might be applied to the gathering -of antiquities. From hence the road goes extremely strait to Newark -between hedge-rows, having the steeple before us as a visto: but, much -to their disgrace, it is in very ill repair; nay, in some places they -dig the very stone and gravel out of it to mend their streets. - -[Sidenote: +Newark.+] - -Newark was certainly raised from the neighbouring Roman cities, and has -been walled about with their remains: the northern and eastern gate, -still left, are composed of stones seemingly of a Roman cut; and not -improbably the Romans themselves had a town here; for many antiquities -are found round about it,[94] especially by the Foss side, which runs -quite through the town. My friend the reverend Mr. Warburton, of this -place, gave me a coin or two dug up here; and likewise this further -information, that lately a gentleman (Mr. Holden) digging to plant -some trees by the Foss road side, discovered four urns lying in a -strait line, and at equal distances: they were soon broke in pieces -by the workmen, imagining to find treasure therein: in one there was -only a rude piece of brass, about the bulk of a small walnut, half -melted down, with a bit of bone and some of the ashes sticking in the -surface thereof, amidst the other burnt bones and ashes: he conjectured -that it was a _fibula_ belonging to the habit of the dead: there -were square earthen beads in others, which seem to be British: in -another was a small brass _lar_ about an inch and half long, but much -consumed by rust: he told me likewise a pot of Roman money was found at -Carlton-scrope near them. There are two fine stone crosses at Newark: -the market-place is a spacious square: the church is very large and -handsome, with a very high steeple.[95] - -[Illustration: 90 _A Prospect of_ Ad Pontem _upon the Eminence. A Mile - South on the Foss. Sep. 7. 1722._ - - _W. Stukeley delin._ a. _Old work Spring._ b. _the Foss_ c. _a - Tumulus_ RR. _the Roman City._ _E. Kirkall Sculp._] - -[Sidenote: +Ad Pontem.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XC.] - -From Newark the Foss passes by Queen’s Sconce, one of the great forts -erected in the civil wars, and so along the Trent side by Stoke, famous -for a battle, and an inn called the Red inn. We arrived, at about six -miles distance south of Newark, to the station of the Romans called _Ad -pontem_. East Bridgford lies near a mile to the right upon the river -Trent: doubtless there was the bridge over the river, which created -the denomination, in the Roman times, as being the passage from the -eastern parts to those beyond the Trent: and as to this particular -station upon the road, perhaps a bridge was the sign of the inn, that -travellers might know where to turn out for that purpose, for I cannot -suppose here was a bridge at the road. At Bridgford they told us there -were formerly great buildings and cellars on the right as you descend -to the Trent, and a quay upon the river for vessels to unlade at.[96] -The Roman station upon the Foss I found to be called Boroughfield, -west of the road: here a spring arises under the hedge, called Oldwork -spring, very quick, running over a fine gravel; the only one hereabouts -that falls eastward, not directly into the neighbouring Trent, towards -Newton. Hereabouts I saw the Roman foundations of walls, and floors -of houses, composed after the manner before spoken, of stones set -edgewise in clay, and liquid mortar run upon them: there are likewise -short oaken posts or piles at proper intervals, some whereof I pulled -up with my own hands. Dr. Batteley tells us of oak very firm, found -at Reculver, under the Roman cisterns: the earth all around looks -very black: they told us that frequently the stones were laid upon a -bed of pease-straw and rush-rope or twisted hay, which remained very -perfect. Houses stood all along upon the Foss, whose foundations have -been dug up, and carried to the neighbouring villages. They told us too -of a most famous pavement near the Foss way: close by, in a pasture, -Castle-hill close, has been a great building, which they say was -carried all to Newark. John Green of Bridgeford, aged 80, told me that -he has taken up large foundations there, much ancient coin, and small -earthen pipes for water: his father, aged near 100, took up many pipes -fourscore yards off the castle, and much fine free-stone: some well cut -and carved: there have been found many urns, pots, and Roman bricks; -but the people preserved none of them; and some that had coins would by -no means let us see them, for fear we were come from the lord of the -manor. About a mile farther is a _tumulus_ upon an eminence of the road -beyond Bingham lane, a fine prospect to Belvoir castle, Nottingham, -the Trent, &c. whence I took a small sketch of the road we had passed, -regretting the oblivion of so many famous antiquities. - -In my journey forwards, upon the declension of a stiff clayey hill, -near the lodge upon the wolds, an inn under a great wood. The pavement -upon the road is very manifest, of great blue flag-stones laid edgewise -very carefully: the quarries whence they took them are by the side -of the hill: this pavement is a hundred foot broad, or more; but all -the way thence it has been intirely paved with red flints, seemingly -brought from the sea-coasts: these are laid, with the smoothest face -upwards, upon a bed of gravel over the clayey marl, which reaches -beyond Margidunum; that we may well say, - - _O quantæ pariter manus laborant! - Hi cædunt nemus, exuuntque montes. - Hi ferro scopulos trabesque cædunt_, &c. +Stat. Sylv.+ iv. - -This pavement is very broad, and visible where not covered with dirt, -and especially in the frequent breaches thereof. They preserve a report -still, that it was thus paved all the way from Newark to Leicester, -and that the Foss way went through Leicester shambles: the yard of the -lodge in the wold is paved with these same stones plundered from the -road. June 15, 1728, Mr. L. Hurst, of Grantham, told me he saw at Mr. -Gascoign’s, a goldsmith in Newark, a large gold ring weighing 42s. -lately brought him by a countryman, which he found upon the Foss-way. -There was a seal upon the gold; a fox (he thought) engraved under a -tree. Afterward I bought the seal: it is a wolf under a tree. Perhaps -Norman. AD PONTEM. - -[Sidenote: +Margidvnvm.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XCI.] - -Willughby brook is the next water. When arrived over-against Willughby -on the wold on the right, Upper and Nether Broughton on the left, -you find a _tumulus_ on Willughby side of the road, famous among -the country people: it is called Cross hill: upon this they have an -anniversary festival: the road parts the two lordships; but the name -of Broughton set me to work to find the Roman town, among the people -getting in harvest. After some time I perceived I was upon the spot, -being a field called Henings, by which I suppose is meant the ancient -meadows: this is upon the brow of the hill overlooking Willughby -brook, rising in Dalby lordship, and playing in pretty meanders along -a valley between corn-fields, with a moderate water unless raised by -rains. Here they said had been an old city, called Long Billington: it -is often called the Black field in common discourse, from the colour -and excessive richness of the soil, so that they never lay any manure -upon it. Here is a place called Thieves, and on the other side of the -valley a place called Wells, near where now a barn stands: and all -this length they say the city reached, and that there was a church on -the top of Wells; but the city was mostly on Willughby side; for the -land on the other side in Broughton lordship is poor, whilst this is -luxuriant to the last degree; so that a farmer once happening to set -his sheep-fold here, it rotted the corn upon the spot; and often -he has been forced to mow the blade before it spindled (in their way -of talking.) The soil is perfectly black, though all the circumjacent -land be red, especially north of the valley upon the edge of the hill, -and where most antiquities are found; which certainly was the true -place, whence the Roman name, signifying a marly hill. Richard Cooper, -aged 72, has found many brass and silver coins here: there have been -some of gold. They have a notion of great riches being under ground, -and a vulgar report that one balk, or mere, (i. e. a division between -the ploughed fields) has as much money under it, as would purchase -the whole lordship: but people have been frighted from digging it by -spirits; and several pleasant stories are told thereupon. They have -likewise a tradition that the city was destroyed by _thieves_, perhaps -from the place so called. Many Mosaic pavements have been dug up: my -landlord Gee of Willughby says, he has upon ploughing met with such -for five yards together, as likewise coins, pot-hooks, fire-shovels -and the like utensils, and many large brass coins, which they took for -weights, ounces and half-ounces, but upon trial found them somewhat -less. Broad stones and foundations are frequent upon the side of the -Foss: several found at Wells. The ground naturally is so stiff a marl, -that at Willughby town they pave their yards with stones, fetched from -the Foss way even to the slope of their pits, for the cattle to drink -at. At Over and Nether Broughton, and Willughby too, the coins are so -frequent, that you hear of them all the country round. There is a fine -prospect from Wells hill every way, whence I drew a little view of the -place. In Willughby town is a handsome cross of one stone, five yards -long: in the time of the reforming rebellion the soldiers had tied -ropes about it to pull it down; but the vicar persuaded them to commute -for some strong beer, having made an harangue to show the innocence -thereof. Richard Cooper likewise told me of a pot of Roman money found -at Wilford near Nottingham. - -[Illustration: 91 Prospect of Margidunum from Wells hill _by yᵉ Barn - upon_ Foss _Sept. 8. 1722. Nobilissimo Principi Duci Kingstoniæ &c._ - - _W. Stukeley delin._ To face +Nether Broughton+ _Kirkall Sculp._] - -[Illustration: 11 CROSSES - - _Sᵗ. Guthlac’s Cross upon the bank, between Crowland & Spalding, - near Peakill Lineʳ._ - - _Ivy Cross by Romans bank in Sutton Sᵗ. James Parish Holland - Lincʳ.]_ - - _The Pedestal of a Cross, Hadenham Cambʳ._ - - _A Stone Cross found at Sᵗ. John Old Castles near the Barr. - Presented to Lord_ Harley _by Mʳ._ J. Mickleton, _deceased._ - - _On the Pedestal of a Stone Cross at Drayton near_ Norwich. - - _This Cross was at Ednam Lincʳ. drawn by Sʳ._ H. Spelman. Form - Octangular, 9 Inches Diam. 4 Sides twice as broad as the other._ - - _At Willughby on the Wold, one Stone 5 yards high_ - - _Stukeley delin:_ _E. Kirkall scu._] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XI.] - -So much for Margidunum, of which we may say, - - _Nunc passim vix relliquias vix nomina servans._ - -In passing forwards towards Leicester, between here and the river Wrek, -I found the Foss road began to be very obscure, not only where it -has been ploughed up in some places, but where it goes over a grassy -common: the reason is, travellers have quite worn it away, because of -the badness of the roads; and the negligence of the people so far from -repairing it, that they take away the materials. Moreover, you are oft -in danger of losing it through the many intersections of cross roads; -and sometimes it is inclosed with pastures, or passes under the sides -of a wood: therefore upon every hill-top I made an observation of some -remarkable object on the opposite high ground, which continued the -right line; so that by going strait forwards I never failed of meeting -it again. I observed too, that at such a time of the day exactly, the -sun was perpendicular to the road; for it continues the same bearing -throughout: this I tried by the compass soon after I left Lincoln, -and when I came to High-cross, where it crosses the Watling-street, -and at intermediate places; finding it always butted upon the same -degree, to surprising exactness. At Abketilby in the vale of Belvoir, -and thereabouts, in the quarries is a vein of rag-stone wholly made of -shells, covered with a thin vein of good hewing stone: this is in one -corner of that great vale, under the Lincolnshire _Alpes_. - -[Sidenote: +Shipley-Hill+ Br _barrow_.] - -At Cossington (just before I came to the river Wrek, parting the -counties) is a vast barrow, 350 foot long, 120 broad, 40 high or near -it: it is very handsomely worked up on the sides, and very steep: it -seems to have lost some of its length at both ends, especially the -northern, a torrent running close by: it stands exactly north and -south, upon the very edge of the ings; and in wet times it must be -almost incompassed with water: they call it Shipley hill, and say a -great captain called Shipley was buried there. I doubt not but this is -of great antiquity, and Celtic, and that the intent of it is rightly -preserved by the country people; but as to the name of him I can say -nothing. On the top are several oblong double trenches cut in the -turf, where the lads and lasses of the adjacent villages meet upon -Easter-Monday yearly, to be merry with cakes and ale. I observed upon -the Foss, all along, that in almost every parish were such like tables, -for the same purpose; and such a one I formerly found at Rowldrich -stones in Oxfordshire. Near this place, at Radcliff, so called from -the road, it seems that the Foss road passes over this brook, and -filling up its cavity, made it necessary to cut a new channel, that -the road might run strait, and like the Roman _terminus_ give place to -nothing. Having passed the river, it proceeds over the meadows: just -beyond them is a large round _tumulus_, which I suppose Roman: then the -road goes strait through Thumarton, and ends full upon the east gate -of Leicester. But before we speak of this station, we must with the -Itinerary make an excursion to take in _Vernometum_. - -[Sidenote: +Vernometum.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XXII 2d Vol.] - -There seems to be no Roman way between _Ratæ_ and _Vernometum_;[97] -but coming from _Margidunum_, you turn out of the road by Sison -over-against Radcliffe before mentioned. This place is Borough, or -Erdborough, i. e. the earthy camp, in Gartre hundred east of Leicester. -It is a very great Roman camp upon a very high hill, the north-west -tip of a ridge of hills, and higher than any other part of it, of a -most delightful and extensive prospect, reaching as far as Lincoln -one way: the fortification takes in the whole summit of the hill; the -high rampire is partly composed of vast loose stones piled up and -covered with turf: it is of an irregular figure, humouring the form -of the ground, nearly a square, and conformed to the quarters of the -heavens: its length lies east and west, the narrowest end eastward: it -is about 800 foot long, and for the most part there is a ditch besides -the rampire, to render the ascent still more difficult to assailants: -the entrance is south-west at a corner from a narrow ridge: here -two rampires advance inwards, like the sides of a gate, for greater -strength: within is a rising hill about the middle, and they say that -vaults have been found thereabouts. Antiquarians talk of a temple, -which possibly may have been there, and in the time of the Britons: -thus the old _Fanum_ of Apollo at Delphos was in a concavity on the -top of a hill. The name of _Vernometum_ signifies a sacred plain, as -they tell us from authority. It contains about sixteen acres: several -springs rise from under the hill on all sides, and I observed the rock -thereof is composed intirely of sea-shells: they frequently carry -away the stones that form the rampires, to mend the roads with. The -town itself is now but a small village. There is another Roman castle -southward near Tilton, but not so big as Borough hill: a petrifying -spring near it, and a Roman road, as thought, called Long Hedges. I am -not without suspicion that the true name is _Verometum_, and must be -sought for somewhere near a river. - -[Sidenote: +Ratæ+ Coritanorum.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XCII.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. LV.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XXIII. 2d Vol.] - -[Sidenote: +Rawdikes+ _a_ Br. _cursus_.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XXIV. XXV. XXVI. XXVII. 2d Vol.] - -Leicester is the _Ratæ Coritanorum_ of the Romans. The trace of the -Roman wall quite round is discoverable without difficulty, especially -in the gardens about Senvy gate: there was a ditch on the outside, -very visible in the gardens thereabouts: it is 2500 Roman feet long, -and as much broad towards the south-east, 2000 Roman feet broad to the -north-west: this was repaired by Edelfleda, a noble Saxon lady, anno -914. but the stories in Mr. Camden, of the piles it stood on, and the -indissoluble tenacity of the mortar, seem meant of the Roman work. The -streets run in the manner we observed of _Camboritum_, the length of -the city being from north-west to south-east. There is a Roman musive -pavement in a cellar, in part remaining, of a person standing by a -deer, Cupid drawing his bow, delineated in differently-coloured small -stones as usual.[98] The old work called Jewry wall is composed of -rag-stone and Roman brick: several fragments and foundations are in all -the houses hereabouts of this building, whatever it were, as well as in -the adjacent church, which seems to be built in the very _area_ of it, -and out of its ruins. Not far off is a place called Holy Bones, where -abundance of bones of oxen have been dug up, the _exuvia_ of their -sacrifices: this is however a most noble piece of Roman antiquity, and -I lament it should be so much abused. Many Roman coins are found at -Leicester: at the entrance into White Friers a pot full dug up about -five years ago, and many great foundations. At St. Mary de Pree’s -abbey they dug up a body, about three years ago, which they supposed -to be cardinal Wolsey’s: in this abbey is nought worth seeing, but a -pleasant terrace-walk, supported by an embattled wall, with lunettes -hanging over the river and shadowed with trees. The little remains of -the old building are new modelled by later hands, and scarce to be -distinguished: it was made a dwelling-house since the Dissolution; and -that is now spoiled of floors, roof, and windows; and the naked walls -are left to daily ruin and pillage: the spot of the abbey is turned -into a garden: they show us a place in it, where has been much search -for the famous cardinal’s body; but it did not seem to me a likely -place. The church, though wholly erased, did not probably come out -so far toward the river: indeed there is thorough work made of all -the religious houses at Leicester, and scarce one stone left in its -original site. St. Margaret’s church was a bishop’s see in the time of -the Saxon kings. Within the castle is a collegiate hospital, founded -by Henry earl of Lancaster, who with his son Henry duke of Lancaster -lie buried in the chapel: the church was very fine, demolished in the -Suppression. Here, say some, was buried Richard III. this castle was -built by Simon de Montfort. There is a very pretty arch reaching across -the river, called Bowbridge, at Black Friers, under which they have -a notion that king Richard III. was buried; which seems to allude to -the British romance that tells of king Lear being buried here. Half -a mile southward from Leicester, upon the edge of the meadows is a -long ditch called Rawdikes: upon view of the place I found it to be a -British _cursus_. King Charles I. when besieging Leicester, lay at the -vicarage-house at Elston; and during the storm of the town, when his -men took and pillaged it, he stood, as they report, upon the banks of -this Rawdikes. About February 1721–2. a tesselated pavement was found -the other side the river, about Wanlip, with coins of Constantine, -broken urns, a human scull, &c. a foundation by it, doubtless of the -house that covered it. - -[Illustration: _Prospect of_ Burrow hill _from the Leicester road. -Sepᵗ. 8. 1722._ +Vernometvm.+ - - _Stukeley delin._ _E. Kirkall sculp._ - - Willᵒ: Cheselden Chirurgo peritissimo, Amico _Tab. dd. W. Stukeley_. - - _Key found at Burrow Hill_ - - _T. Lyus Delin._ - - _from Revᵈ. G Ashby’s Museolum at Barrow Suffolk. 1791] - -[Illustration: 92 _Leicester._ - - Samueli Carte A.M. d.d. W. Stukeley. - - _Stukeley delin._] - -[Illustration: 55 _The Roman Building commonly called the Temple of Janus - at Leicester._ - - _Ne tantam Ruinam absorbeat Inimica Ætas aq. forti fecit. Wˢ. - Stukeley & Samⁱ Gale Ar. consecratā voluit. 1722._] - -[Illustration: 23·2ᵈ. _The west side of the_ roman building _at_ - +Leicester+ _Sept: 8. 1722_. - - _Stukeley delin_: _E. Kirkall sculp_:] - -[Illustration: 24·2ᵈ.] - -[Illustration: 25·2ᵈ. _A Prospect of the British Cursus near - Leicester, call’d Raw Dikes from the hills above. September 10. - 1722._] - -[Illustration: 26·2ᵈ. _The Side View of the British Cursus at Leicester - Sep. 10. 1722._ - -_Stukeley del._ _I. Vᵈᵉʳ. Gucht Sculp._] - -[Illustration: 27·2ᵈ. _A Prospect of the British Cursus at Leicester - call’d Rawdikes from the other side of yᵉ River by the Foss road Sep. - 9. 1722._] - -Soon after you go from Leicester, taking the Foss at Bronstongate, you -come to some inclosures and troublesome gates across the road: here -they have fenced it out into a narrow scantling, scarce the breadth -of a coach, to the shame as well as the detriment of the country, -suffering so scandalous an incroachment. I travelled by Narborough -on the west side of the river, and a very wet journey under foot for -one that was resolved to keep upon the road: sometimes I rode half -a mile up to the horse’s belly in water upon the Roman pavement. -The river Soar running near its east side, it is carried over many -bogs, quags, and springs, for miles together, with a visible pavement -of great round coggles by Sharnford, so called from the causeway: -approaching High-cross it enters inclosures again, and is crossed by -some more lakes scarce passable. Just upon the edge of Leicestershire -and Warwickshire, at High-cross, I met the Watling-street, my future -conductor. - -[Sidenote: +Benonis.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XCIII.] - -Benonis stands in the intersection of the two great Roman roads that -traverse the kingdom obliquely, and seems to be the centre of England, -and highest ground; for from hence rivers run every way. The Foss -went across the back-side of the inn, and so towards Bath. The ground -hereabouts, the site of the ancient city, is very rich; and many -antiquities, stones, Roman bricks, &c. have been dug up: Roman coins -were found when they ploughed the field west of the cross.[99] Much -_ebulus_ grows here, sought for in cure of dropsies. Claybroke lane has -a bit of an old quick-set hedge left across it, betokening one side -of the Foss: the bearing of the Foss here is exactly north-east and -south-west, as upon the moor on this side Lincoln. In the garden before -the inn was a _tumulus_ lately taken away: under it they found the -body of a man upon the plain surface, as likewise under several others -hereabouts upon the Watling-street. Foundations of houses have been -frequently dug up along the street here, all the way to Cleycester. -Here is a cross of handsome design, but of a mouldering stone, through -the villainy of the architect, one Dunkley, built at the charge of -the late earl of Denbigh, and the gentlemen in the neighbourhood: it -consists of four Doric columns regarding the four roads, with a gilded -globe and cross a-top upon a sun-dial: on two sides, between the four -Tuscan pillars, that compose a sort of pedestal, are these inscriptions. - - _Vicinarum provinciarum Vervicensis - Scilicet & Leicestrensis ornamenta - Proceres patriciique auspiciis - Illustrissimi Basilii comitis de - Denbigh hanc columnam statuendam - curaverunt in gratam pariter - & perpetuam memoriam Jani tandem - a serenissima Anna clausi._ - - - A. D. MDCCXII. - - _Si veterum Romanorum vestigia - quæras, hic cernas viator. Hic enim - celeberrimæ illorum viæ militares - sese mutuo secantes ad extremos usque - Britanniæ limites procurrunt, hic - stativa sua habuerunt Vennones & ad - primum abhinc lapidem castra sua - ad stratam & ad fossam tumulum - Claudius quidam cohortis præfectus - habuisse videtur._ - -Cloudbury-hill, two thorn-bushes upon a _tumulus_ on the Foss, -supposed the sepulchre of one Claudius. The city probably was of a -square form, humouring the crossing of the roads, and had consequently -four streets and four quarters. Many foundations are dug up along all -the roads. It commands a charming prospect to _Ratæ_, _Vernometum_, -Coventry, &c. and quite round. You go through a gate by the cross to -regain the Foss: at the length of a pasture it meets the true old road. - -[Illustration: 93 +Bennonis.+ - _Sepᵗ. 9. 1722._ - - _Stukeley del_: _I. Vᵈᵉʳ. Gucht Sculp._ - - _Thomæ Bacon Ar Relliquias Romanas dd. Wˢ. Stukeley._ - - _Coins found near High-Cross_ - - High Cross. A.D. 1618. - - High Cross, 1722. - - _Bonnonis Sept. 9. 1722._] - -[Sidenote: +Watling-street.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. LVI.] - -Being now got upon the Watling-street, I made this remark of it, that -it is the direct road to Rome: for take a ruler, and lay it in a map -of Europe from Chester through London and Dover, and it makes a strait -line with Rome: so the great founders had this satisfaction when they -travelled upon it, that they were ever going upon the line that led -to the imperial Capitol. Our antiquarians are much at a loss, after -torturing of words and languages, to find out the reason of the name -of this street, which is so notorious, that many other by-roads of the -Romans, in different parts of the kingdom, have taken the same, and it -became almost the common appellative of such roads. My judgment of it -is this: it is natural to denominate great roads from the places they -tend to, as the Icening-street from the Iceni: the Akeman-street is -said to come from Akemancester: in Wiltshire, and other places, the -way to Exeter they call the Exeter road, though a hundred mile off: -so the London road is every where inquired for as the most remarkable -place: thus _Watling-street_, tending directly to Ireland, no doubt was -called the Irish road, that is the _Gathelian_ road, _Gathelin-street_; -whence our present word _Wales_ from _Gauls_, _warden_ from _guardian_, -&c. _Scoti qui & Gaidelii_ says _ogygia extera_. Whether there be any -thing in the story of Gathelus, as founder of the Irish, I do not -concern myself at present; but their language is called _Gaothela_: -so Mr. Camden says the true genuine Scots own not that name, but -call themselves _gaoithel_, _gaiothlac_, as coming from Ireland; -and that they glory in this name: and there is no dispute but this -is the ancient appellative of the Irish,[100] which the learned Mr. -Edward Lluyd has turned into _Gwydhelians_: and this name, which has -superseded that which the Romans gave it, (whatever it was) seems to -show there was such a road in the ancient times of the Britons, as the -track of the trade between Ireland and the continent; yet it must be -owned nought but Roman hands reduced it to the present form. - -Hence-forward we turn our course upon the Gathelin-street directly for -London along with the Itinerary. The road is now altogether between -hedge-rows, very clayey and bad, full of lakes and mires, through the -intolerable negligence of the inhabitants: here and there they have -stupidly mended it, by making a ditch in the middle of the road to -raise a bank of earth; for which they ought rather to be punished than -commended. - -I turned out of the road to the west, through some inclosures, to see -Cester-over, induced by the name. I found a house in a little square -deeply intrenched upon the side of a hill, but the earth rather thrown -outward than inward as a _vallum_, and the level within much lower than -the field around it. I perceived it was a religious house; some part of -the building left; and without the ditch a fine chapel, built of brick -with good stone coins and mullioned windows, converted into a barn: -and a-cross a valley hard by I saw dams, or stanks, for fish-ponds. -The people within could give me no manner of intelligence, having but -lately come thither. I fancied it to have been a nunnery, and that it -was called _Sister-over_, to distinguish it from other neighbouring -towns; as _Church-over_, _Browns-over_, _&c._ but afterwards I learnt -from other hands that there is a close called Old-town, where they dig -up foundations, being very rich land (said to have been a city) lord -Brook possessor. - -[Sidenote: +Tripontium.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XCIV.] - -Thence passing a rivulet, from Bensford bridge[101] I came to -_Tripontium_, placed in a sweet little valley, but the sides pretty -steep: the road on the opposite hill looks perfectly like a perspective -scene at the play-house. This is the next Roman station, which is -rightly placed at Dovebridge upon the Avon, running by Rugby to -Warwick. The stream here divides into two, with a bridge over each: -upon one a stone inscription, very laconic, showing the three counties -that repair it. The first syllable of _Tripontium_ has relation to -the old British word _tre_, a town or fortification: the remainder is -generally thought to signify a bridge; but it is not to be imagined -the Romans would make a bridge over this rill, or one so eminently -large as to denominate the town: indubitably it comes from the -British word _pant_, a little valley as this is, and remarkably so; -which the Britons pronouncing broad, created the Latin _Tripontium_. -Here are no manner of remains of antiquity, but the distances on each -hand ascertain this the place: hard by antiquities have been found both -at Cathorp and Lilburn, one on the north, the other on the south of -the river; so that the Roman city stood on both sides. Castle hills, a -place at Lilburn, where are some old walls: Camden speaks of it. Mr. -Morton has treated largely on this station, to whom I refer the reader. -The neighbouring Newton probably succeeded it, and then Rugby. - - Yet rolling Avon still maintains its stream, - Swell’d with the glories of the Roman name. - Strange power of fate, unshaken moles must waste, - While things that ever move for ever last! - -With this reflection of the poet leave we the name of _Tripontium_, -made immortal in the imperial Itinerary. - -[Illustration: 94 Johi Bridges Ar. _Romanæ Stationis in Comitatu Suo. - delineationem d.d. W.ˢ Stukeley._ - - _Dowbridg_ - - TRIPONTIUM - 9 Sep. 1722] - -[Sidenote: +Burrow hill.+ Ro. _camp_.] - -[Sidenote: +Arbury Hill.+ Ro. _camp_.] - -When we mount the next hill there is a lovely prospect as far as -Watford-gap, four miles off, a great vale or rather level meadow lying -between, a-cross which the road is drawn: and hereabouts the ridge of -it is very high for miles together: the nature of the way, on both -sides being stoney, has spared it. Several _tumuli_ upon the road; -bodies found under them: this shows the Romans did not travel upon -them on horse-back. Watford-gap is a convenient inn for antiquaries to -supply the mansion of _Tripontium_, which I think proper to advertise -them of: it has a pleasant prospect of the road northwards: it is a -high hill, and a rock of stone six foot under the surface, which is -softish; then a bed of clay; under that a blue hard stone of good -depth: below this rock it is springy, and at the bottom by the meadows -are many quick springs. At Legers Ashby near here has been another old -town, as they say, destroyed by the Danes: there are great ditches, -causeways, and marks of streets. Catesby owned the town, who hatched -the powder-plot. I went out of the road through Norton to see a great -camp called Burrow hill, upon the north end of a hill covered over with -fern and goss: here is a horse-race kept; and the whole hill-top, which -is of great extent, seems to have been fortified: but the principal -work upon the end of it is squarish, double ditched, of about twelve -acres: the inner ditch is very large, and at one corner has a spring: -the _vallum_ is but moderate: a squarish work within, upon the highest -part of the camp, like a _prætorium_. They say this was a Danish camp; -and every thing hereabouts is attributed to the _Danes_, because of -the neighbouring _Daventre_, which they suppose to be built by them: -the road hereabouts too being overgrown with _dane-weed_, they fancy -it sprung from the blood of the Danes slain in battle, and that, if -upon a certain day in the year you cut it, it bleeds. As to the camp, -I believe it to be originally Roman; but that it has been occupied by -some other people, and perhaps the Danes, who have new modelled it, -and made new works to it. Consult Mr. Moreton, who has discoursed very -largely about it. Much _cotyledon_ and _ros solis_ grow in the springs -hereabouts: the stone is red and sandy, and brim-full of shells. I saw -a fine _cornu ammonis_ lie neglected in Norton town road, too big to -bring away, and where they have fresh mended the Watling-street with -this stone; it was an amusement for some miles to view the shells in -it. Hereabouts the road is overgrown with grass and trefoil, being well -nigh neglected for badness, and the trade wholly turned another way, -by Coventry, for that reason. Between the head of the Leam and this -Avon is Arbury hill in view, another Roman camp, upon a very high hill; -notoriously made for a guard between the two rivers. - -[Sidenote: +Benavona.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XXVIII. 2d Vol.] - -[Sidenote: +Castledikes.+] - -The next station the Watling-street leads us to is Weedon on the -street; beyond dispute _Benavona_, as surely it ought to be wrote, -being situate on the head of the _Aufona_, running to _Northavonton_, -or Northampton. This too affords but little matter for the antiquary. -The old town seems to have been in two pastures west of the road, and -south of the church, called Upper Ash-close and Nether Ash-close, or -the Ashes; in which are manifest vestiges of the ditch and rampart -that surrounded it, and many marks of great foundations: they show you -the site of king Wolfhere’s palace, the Saxon kings of this province -having their seat here. The Ashes was the Roman _castrum_: here was -a chapel of St. Werberg, daughter of king Wolfhere, abbess to the -nunnery in this place: there has been dug up abundance of very fine -stone, and many Roman coins. Now Weedon consists of two parishes, and -has been a market-town. There is a large Roman camp a little higher -toward the river-head, southward a mile, as much from Watling-street, -called Castledikes, probably one of those made by P. Ostorius Scapula, -_proprætor_ under Claudius. Roman coin and pavements have been found -there. I visited the place: it is of a very pleasant and healthful -situation, being in a wood on the top of a dry hill: probably it was a -Roman villa, afterwards rendered Saxon: a house stands by it. Another -of these camps of Scapula I mentioned before, at Guildsborough. At -Nether Hayford, on the other side the road, anno 1699, a Roman Mosaic -pavement was found, of which Mr. Moreton gives us a drawing, but in too -small a compass. - -[Sidenote: +Lactorodum.+] - -Towcester is a considerable town between two rivulets; but what -its Roman name, time has envied us, the Itinerary passing it by. -_Lactorodum_ is the next station, being Old Stretford, on the opposite -side of the Ouse to Stony Stretford: many Roman coins have been found -in the fields thereabouts, and queen Eleanor’s cross stood a little -north of the Horse-shoe inn, pulled down in the rebellion; which shows -that the town was on this side the bridge in the time of Edward I. -Mr. Baxter says, the name imports the ford over the water. My friend -Browne Willys esq; who lives in the neighbourhood, has inquired into -the antiquities of this place, and gives us an account of them in -his curious Treatise of Burroughs, which it is to be wished he would -continue. A little on this side Stretford, to the west, upon very high -ground stands Whaddon hall, Mr. Willys’s seat; it has a most delicate -prospect: this manor formerly belonged to the lords Grey; one, a knight -of the garter, lies buried in the church. Spencer the poet lived here, -and the learned duke of Bucks. Here is the original picture of Dr. -Willys: I saw many of his MSS. letters, consultations, lectures, and -other works unprinted. - -Still higher stands Stukeley, a very large parish, on the same sort -of soil as that in Huntingdonshire. This is the oldest church, and -most intire, I ever saw, undoubtedly before the Conquest, in the plain -ancient manner, being a parallelogram of four squares: two are allotted -to the church; one covered by the steeple, which stands between it and -the choir, carried across the church upon two round arches; one square -to the choir, which is vaulted over with stone: the windows are small, -with semi-circular arches, and few in number: at the west end are three -arches, the door in the middlemost: the whole of a very good manner of -symmetry. - -[Illustration: 28·2ᵈ. _Prospect of_ Benavona _July 6ᵗʰ. 1725._ - - _Stukeley delin._ _Fletcher sculp._] - -[Sidenote: +Magiovinium.+] - -Thus far we have gone through Northamptonshire and Bucks: now we enter -Bedfordshire, and arrive at _Magiovinium_, or Dunstable. The road -hither from Fenny Stretford is deep sand (and comes from _Salinæ_, -or _sandy_) till you arrive at the bottom of the chalk-hills, or -_chiltern_, which arise very steep on this side, as being north-west, -conform to my assumption, p. 4. The town stands upon this chalk; -whence its Roman name, importing the white town:[102] it consists -of four streets, intersecting at right angles, but oblique to the -cardinal points, because such is the direction of the Icening and -Watling-street, which here meet. In the centre stood one of those -beautiful crosses of queen Eleanor; but fanatic zeal has robbed the -town of this ornament. This being a high situation, and no running -water near, they are forced to draw up their water, from very deep -wells, by machinery of great wheels. Kingsbury, the royal seat -over-against the church, is now a farm-house. The church is composed of -many parts tacked together, some very old: it was part of the priory: -arch-bishop Cranmer was the last prior here. In Dunstable church is -this inscription, - - *Hic iacent Nicholaus Lane quondam presidens frat’nitat’ sci - Johannis Baptiste De Dunstable qui obiit ii die mens’ Decembr anno - Dm Mᵒ CCCCᵒ lir Et Agnes ur. eiᵒ quorum animabus propicietur Deus - amen.* - -[Sidenote: +Maiden Bower.+ British.] - -[Sidenote: Tumuli _British_.] - -I visited Maiden-Bower,[103] mentioned by Mr. Camden, but cannot think -its name has any relation to that of the town: though Roman coins -have been found here, I am persuaded it is a British work, like that -at Ashwell, at like distance from the Chiltern, and of like form, but -more circular: it stands upon a plain, but not far from the edge of a -lesser eminence of these hills, about a little mile from Dunstable: the -rampire is pretty high, but very little sign of a ditch; nor do I think -there ever was much more: it incloses about nine acres: the ground -round it is ploughed: this chalk yields good wheat. Between here and -the town is a long barrow called the Mill-hill, no doubt from a mill -which was afterwards set upon it; the ends of it ploughed somewhat: -it stands east and west: I have no scruple in supposing it Celtic. A -high prominence of the Chiltern overlooks all, called the Five Knolls, -from that number of barrows, or Celtic _tumuli_, round, pretty large, -and ditched about upon the very _apex_ of the hill. Close by are two -round cavities, as often observed in Wiltshire. The Icening-street runs -under the bottom. These chalk hills have frequently veins of strong -clay intermixed, and the like between these hills and the sand more -northward. This great tract of chalk comes from the eastern sea, and -traverses the kingdom much in a like direction with the Icening-street. - -At Woburn is some fullers earth. There was a noble abbey, now the seat -of the duke of Bedford; in it several valuable works of Inigo Jones -left, particularly a curious grotto. - -[Sidenote: +Durocobrivis.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB XXIX. 2d Vol.] - -From Dunstable the Itinerary leads us out of the road, going strait -to Verolam, and takes in another station by the way, _Durocobrivis_; -which demonstrates it was made not so much for travellers, as for -the soldiery or officers that were to visit the garrisons, therefore -comprehends as many as could conveniently be taken into that route. -About this station antiquaries have been much divided, when it -certainly ought to be placed at Berghamsted, commonly Barkamstead, -in Hertfordshire, which well suits the assigned distances from -_Magiovinium_, and the subsequent _Verolanium_, and has evidently been -a Roman town, as its name imports; and probably the castle there stands -upon a Roman foundation. It is certain Roman coins are frequently dug -up there: my friend Mr. Browne Willys has a Roman coin, found there: -young Mr. Whitfield, brother to the major at St. Alban’s, has many -Roman coins, great and small, found in the castle at Berghamsted. The -inside, within the walls where the lodgings were, is about two acres: -the entrance was not at the corner, where now, but in the front of the -south side: many chimneys remain in the wall, of the lodgings which -extended quite round, leaving a spacious court within; and all the -windows looked inward: the ground of the court is distinguishable, -being good soil, and there they find the Roman coins; the rest is -rubbish and foundations; so that the Saxon castle was made upon the -Roman: the chapel seems to have stood against the west wall, where -be signs of a stair-case: the walls are of flints gathered from the -highlands, very thick, and laid with strong mortar. This town fully -answers the distance in the Itinerary, and remarkably the import of -the name, according to Mr. Baxter’s derivation, though he erroneously -places it at Woburn, _civitas paludosi profluentis_; for here is a -large marsh, or bog, wherein the ancient British _oppidum_ was placed: -it is most sweetly surrounded with high, hard, and pleasant ground -all around, full of hedge-rows, pastures, and arable: the castle was -set very judiciously in the north side, upon a piece of dry ground, -incompassed with springs, by the Saxons made exceedingly strong. The -town is upon the south side of the marsh, stretching itself a good -length in handsome buildings, and a broad street: the church is a large -handsome building, a monumental _effigies_ of a knight and a lady; upon -his coat a bend or belt, and in the sinister chief a martlet; a lion -his crest under his feet: it is full of chapels and monuments old and -new. This town has been an old corporation; the kings of Mercia resided -here; Wightred, king of Kent and Mercia, anno 697, held a parliament -here; and here king Ina’s laws were published: all which further -confirm its being the place we assert.[104] - -Near is Ashridge, an abbey, now the seat of the duke of Bridgewater; -a park finely wooded, especially with tall beech-trees full of mast. -Hereabouts I observed many great stones composed wholly of little -pebbles; others, of larger pebbles or flints petrified together -exceeding hard. Near Ricmeresworth, at Moor park, Mr. Styles, digging a -hill away, found veins of sea-sand with mussels in them, and many other -curious particulars. - -[Sidenote: +Verolanium.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XCV.] - -[Sidenote: TAB XXX XXXI.] - -We come again into the Watling-street at _Verolanium_. I need say -little here, after Mr. Camden, Chancey, Weaver, and others. This was -the famous _municipium_ of the Romans, destroyed by Boadicia. The form -of the city is depicted in plate 95. in one part the ditch is double, -but irregularly formed. I imagine the outermost was the only fence of -the first city, which Boadicia destroyed before the walls were built, -and these reduced it into a more square form; to which the inner ditch -belonged. In some measure the track of the streets is visible, when -the corn first comes up, or is nearly ripe: three years ago good part -of the wall was standing; but ever since, out of wretched -ignorance, even of their own interest, they have been pulling it up -all around, to the very foundations, to mend the highway; and I met -hundreds of cart-loads of Roman bricks, &c. carrying for that purpose, -as I now rode through the old city, though they may have stone cheaper, -because of the prodigious strength of the mortar, so that they cannot -get up one whole brick in a thousand. The composition of the Roman wall -is three foot layers of flint, and one foot made up of three courses -of Roman brick: there are round holes quite through the wall, at about -eight yards distance, in that corner still left by St. German’s chapel: -another great piece of the wall is left by the west gate, called Gorham -Block; it is always twelve foot thick. I saw a little brass _lar_, or -_genius alatus_; another curious antiquity, of a brass knife-handle -with odd faces and figures on it, now in possession of Sir Robert -Cornwall, baronet; a little urn of white earth two inches and quarter -high: part of a great wine-jar, 20 inches high, two foot diameter, -in St. Michael’s vestry; another such in St. Alban’s church. In St. -Michael’s church sleeps the great naturalist Bacon, who first revived -the experimental way of philosophy: his mansion-house or manor was -at Gorhambury, hard by, where is a statue of Henry VIII. and several -things worth seeing: it is now the seat of my lord Grimstone. Infinite -are the antiquities of all sorts that have been, and frequently are, -dug up at _Verolam_. When I was making an ichnography of it, I could -have taken several pecks of remainders of Mosaic pavements out of a -little ditch near St. German’s chapel; and there is one or two intire -yet under ground. As you walk along the great road that runs north and -south through the city from St. Michael’s church, you see foundations -of houses and streets, gutters, floors, &c. under the hedge-rows. -The ancient part of the monastic church and the steeple are intirely -built of Roman brick, fetched by the abbots from the old city. March -1718–9 a Mosaic pavement was found. The Roman bricks are generally -eighteen inches long, twelve broad, one and a half thick. I measured -one in the south-wall of the school-house, by the east end of the -abbey church, twenty-three inches long, three thick, which probably -was made for hypocausts. Upon the walls of old _Verulam_ grows the -_bee orchis_, a very curious plant. Many are the monuments, brasses, -tombs, and inscriptions, in the abbey church: the vault of Humphry duke -of Glocester was lately discovered: the high altar is a curious piece -of Gothic work, which I have represented in two plates. Hard by is -Sopwell nunnery, where they say Henry VIII. was married to Anna Bolen: -part of it is standing. But to say any thing particular of religious -antiquities, would be too tedious: they have lately been working hard -at pulling up the old foundations of the abbey, and it is now levelled -with the pasture, when three years ago one might make a tolerable -guess at the ichnography of the place. In the heart of the town of the -adjoining corporation stood another of queen Eleanor’s crosses, which -they likewise intirely demolished, not considering that such kind of -antiquities invite many curious travellers to come thither. This very -year they pulled down the stone tower or gate-house on the north side -of the abbey, within a month after I had taken a sketch of it. In St. -Peter’s church I found this old inscription on a stone, - - *EDITHE : LE : UINETER : GIST : ICI : DIEU : DE - SA : ALME : EIT : MERCI.* - -I shall add no more, than that my notion of the derivation of this -town, and several others compounded of like words, is, a fair -habitation, _Vrolân_, as it justly merits. - -[Illustration: 29·2ᵈ. _Prospect of_ Berghamsted _14. Sept. 1724._ - +Dvrocobrivis.+ - - _Stukeley delin._ _E. Kirkall sculp._] - -[Illustration: 95 +Verolanivm+ - -Martino Folkes Ar. observantiæ ergo d. _W. Stukeley_ - - A. _To_ Suellaniacis - B. _The Monastrey_ - C. _Sopwell a Nunnery_ - D. _Sᵗ Stephens_ - E. _Q. Elenors-cross_ - F. _Sᵗ Michaels_ - G. _A Bell-tower_ - H. _Sᵗ Marys chap_: - - _Stukeley delin._ _Parker Sculp_] - -[Illustration: 30 - - _The high Altar at Sᵗ. Albans. 28. Dec 1720._ _Stukeley d._] - -[Illustration: 31 _The back side of the high altar at Sᵗ. Albans_ - - _Stukeley d._] - -[Sidenote: +Suellaniacis.+] - -The Watling-street seems to have passed directly through the Roman -city, a little southward of St. Michael’s church and St. Mary’s chapel, -so by St. Stephen’s: nevertheless there is a road round about, without -the south side of the city-walls, for those that had no occasion to go -through the city: it goes by St. Julian’s, once an hospital; then by -Colney-street and Radway; thence almost disused, and scarce known but -from its straitness: it continues direct, but very narrow, the hedges -having incroached upon it on both sides, till we arrive at our next -station, _Suellaniacis_, upon Brockley hill, a little south of Elstre, -and near Stanmore. From this eminence, where Mr. Philpot’s summer-house -stands, is a sweet prospect across the Thames into Surrey: this is -by Kendale wood, where formerly they found an old flint wall laid in -terrace-mortar as they call it, meaning its strength, so hard that they -could not possibly dig it up with pick-axes: they found an oven in the -same place. Mr. Philpot, when digging his canal and foundations for his -buildings, which are upon the site of the old city, found many coins, -urns, and other antiquities. They have a proverb here, - - _No heart can think, nor tongue can tell, - What lies between_ Brockley-hill _and_ Penny-well; - -meaning the coins found thereabouts. In the wood over-against the -house, great quantity of Roman bricks, gold rings, and coins, have been -found in digging; many arched vaults of brick and flints under the -trees: the whole top of the hill is covered with foundations. Pennywell -is a parcel of closes across the valley beyond _Suellaniacis_, where -foundations are discernible: here likewise they say was a city: two or -three years ago they dug privately, in hopes of finding treasure at -this place. I am of Mr. Baxter’s opinion, that the name of this station -has some reference to the famous British king _Suellan_, or Cassibelan, -general of the Britons against Cæsar, and that his town was in this -neighbourhood; which I shall consider more particularly upon another -occasion. By the road side is a barrow lately dug away. - -Hence the road goes through Edgworth; and so at Paddington, by Tyburn, -it crosses the other Roman road, called now Oxford-street, which was -originally continued to Old-street, going north of London one way; -the other way it proceeds by the back side of Kensington, and through -an unfrequented path, till it falls into the present great road to -Brentford, Stanes, &c. and it is a Roman road all the way, going pretty -nearly east and west: therefore our Watling-street must cross it with -an oblique angle; and by observation I found it to be about forty-five -degrees. Higden takes notice the Watling-street ran to the west of -Westminster, over the Thames, so through the middle of Kent: from -Tyburn I judge it goes over part of Hyde-park,[105] and by May-fair, -through St. James’s park, to the street by Old Palace-yard called the -Wool-staple, to the Thames. Here has been an old gate; one part of -the arch is still left, but not Roman. On the opposite side of the -river is Stane-gate ferry, which is the continuation of this street to -Canterbury, and so to the three famous sea-ports, _Rutupiæ_, _Dubris_, -and _Lemanis_. This Oxford road was originally carried north of London, -in order to pass into Essex, because London then was not considerable; -but in a little time became well nigh lost; and Holborn was struck -out from it, as conducting travellers thither, directly entering the -city at Newgate, originally called Chamberlain’s gate, and so to -Londonstone, the _lapis milliaris_ from which distances are reckoned: -and hence the reason why the name of Watling-street is still preserved -in the city, though the real Watling-street goes through no part of it, -but through Southwark; or, if we please, we may call this a vicinal -branch of the Watling-street. - -[Illustration: 57 +Londinivm+ Augusta - _7. Nov. 1722._ - - Illustrissimo Comiti Penbrokiæ Moecenati Eximio Sacra Tabula. - - _Stukeley delin._] - -[Sidenote: +Londinium.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. LVII.] - -According to method I should speak of _Londinium_ here: but because -the great deal that may be said thereupon will make a discourse by -itself, we content ourselves at present with giving the plan of it, -as we suppose it might appear in the times of the Romans; and so -continuing our tour into Kent, will finish the whole continuation of -the Watling-street with what few memoirs I could pick up at that time. - -As Old-street went on the north of London, so the proper Watling-street -we have been upon, since High-cross in Warwickshire, went on the south; -from Stane-gate ferry across St. George’s fields, so south of the Lock -hospital to Deptford and Black heath: a small portion of the ancient -way pointing to Westminster abbey is now the common road on this side -the nearest turnpike; but the continuation of it is quite lost since -the bridge was made, and all roads meet at that centre as so many -_radii_. When London became considerable, the ferry over-against it, -from being better attended, rendered that at Stangate almost useless; -so passengers went through the city by Canon-street, Watling-street, -and Holborn: hence so little appears of it between Tyburn and the Lock -hospital; and probably its materials were long since wholly dug away to -mend the highways. Upon this way in Southwark many Roman antiquities -have been found, particularly a _Janus_ of stone, in possession of Dr. -Woodward: but our business shall be to prosecute the end of the second -journey and the whole third and fourth of Antoninus. - -From Shooters hill the direction of the road is very plain both ways: -a mile westward from the bottom of the hill you find vestiges of it -just upon the common: some part of the _agger_ is left, made of gravel -near at hand: from the top of Shooters hill you see it butts upon -Westminster abbey, where it passes the Thames; and this demonstrates -its original direction, and that it was begun from the east; for the -turn of the river at Greenwich intercepts it, though not observed in -maps: so the way is forced to deflect a little southward there, and -then recovers its point: beyond that hill it is very strait as far as -the ken reaches. On Black heath a vast _tumulus_, now used as a butt -for _archers_, hereabouts in great request till Henry the VIIIth’s -time: and hence the name of _Shooters_ hill. - -[Sidenote: +Noviomagus.+] - -[Sidenote: +Northfleet.+ Ro. _town_.] - -It is to be noted that in the second journey of Antoninus, _Madviacis_, -Maidstone, and _Durobrovis_, Rochester, are transposed; therefore -in the whole between London and Rochester it is twenty-eight miles, -as in both the next journeys called twenty-seven, (but more rightly -the former:) so that, as the Watling-street leads directly over -Shooters hill between London and Rochester, and seeing the whole -distance is answerable to fact, we need be in no pain for finding -out the intermediate station, _Noviomagus_: doubtless it was about -Wellend or Crayford,[106] as Mr. Somner judges, where the respective -distances on each side point it out: notwithstanding, as to matters -of antiquity, we have nothing to say. So with good reason Dr. Plot -settles _Pennocrucium_ at Stretton in Staffordshire, because it is upon -this same Watling-street, and answers the distances, though no Roman -antiquities are there discovered; and the like must we do of other -places. No doubt there were two stations between London and Rochester, -though only one mentioned in the Itinerary: Northfleet seems to be the -other, where many antiquities are found. I heard much talk of an old -town at Plumsted, nearer the Thames, and to which they say the river -came up originally: if true, perhaps this was the _Noviomagus_, and -the _Trinobantum_, or _Trenowydh_ of the Britons, i. e. the town of -the _Novii_ or _Novantes_, of which their old writers make a din, and -would affix it to London: they say there are much ruins there. East -of Crayford, all along upon the heath, as well as on the other side -from Shooters hill, the ridge of the Watling-street is very visible; -but beyond Dartford the common road leaves it quite on the south side, -which induced me to follow the Roman: it becomes a lane presently, and -passes in a very strait line, for five or six miles, through little -valleys, woods, and inclosures; and about that distance I lost both -it and myself in a wood by Southfleet; which obliged me to endeavour -again to recover the great road: by the quantity of ground I went for -that purpose, I guess this is a branch of the main road directly to -Maidstone, for the convenience of such as intended to go strait to -_Lemanis_ by _Durolenum_. The soil from London to Dartford is gravel, -but the highest ground has sand: beyond to Rochester it is chalk full -of flints and gravel: the flints lie in _strata_, very black, and -squeezed flat like mortar in the course of a wall; and above the chalk -is pure sand. - -[Sidenote: +Durobrivis.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XXX. 2d Vol.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. VI.] - -The river Medway at Rochester is very broad and rapid, foaming most -violently: there is a stately bridge built across it: below bridge lie -about fifty of our biggest first rate men of war unrigged, such as -the Royal Sovereign, Britannia, Barfleur, &c. The Roman city was very -strong, being walled about and ditched:[107] near that angle below the -bridge, incompassed by the river, is a large piece of Roman building -of the wall, made of rubble-stone laid sloping side-ways, here and -there Roman bricks: houses are built upon it, and it is broke through -for a passage; in the inside much flint. Dr. Thorp has great numbers -of antiquities found hereabouts. This city stands in an angle of the -river: it seems to have been of a square form, the Watling-street -running directly through it: most of the walls still remain, but -repaired. The castle was built out of one angle by William the -Conqueror, which together with the cathedral has altered the regular -ground-plot of the city, as at Lincoln: the walls of the great tower -now left are four yards thick. The body of the cathedral is of the -original structure before the Conquest, repaired by bishop Gundulf an -architect, who likewise built the castle: the great tower is now called -Gundulf’s tower. The chalky cliff under the castle-wall next the river -is a romantic sight: the rapidity of the river wastes it away; and then -huge tracts of the wall fall down: in some places you see the bottom of -the broad foundation, and which in others is carried down to the water. -On the north side of the north-west tower of the church is Gundulf’s -_effigies_.[108] The front of the church is of the old work, but a new -window put in the middle. The eastern gate of the city was pulled down -not long ago: I saw many of the stones distributed among the adjacent -buildings, being of a Roman cut. - -[Sidenote: +Vaginacis.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XXXI. XXXII. XXXIII. XXXIV. 2d Vol.] - -We must now, according to the Itinerary, leave the Watling-street, and -go to Maidstone. The road hither passes by that famous British monument -called Kits-coty-house. It cannot be disputed but that Maidstone is the -next Roman station. _Mædwæg_ I apprehend signifies the meadows upon -the river _Vaga_, which are here beautiful: whether the Latin word be -_Madviacis_, or _Vagniacis_, I see no difficulty in forming it from the -British.[109] The archbishop of Canterbury had a palace here, founded -by John Ufford, finished by Simon Islip: a college or hospital was -erected by A. B. Boniface, and a chantry by Thomas Arundel, now the -free-school. About 1720, they dug up several canoos, made of hollowed -trees, in the marshes of the river Medway above Maidstone: one is used -for a boat to this day. I saw, in the hands of Dr. Dodd, a British -coin of _electrum_, found at Addington near Malling, anno 1720, in the -foundation of a stone wall: on the concave side a British horse, rude -enough; the convex was plain. - -[Illustration: 30·2ᵈ. _A Piece of the Roman Wall at Rochester 7. Oct. - 1724._ - - _Stukeley delin_ _Toms Sculp._] - -[Illustration: 6 Rochester _Castle 4 Oct. 1722._ - - Dno J. ohi Elwill Barᵗᵗᵒ. dd. _W. Stukeley._] - -[Illustration: 31·2ᵈ. _A Prospect of Kits Coty:house Kent Oct: 15. - 1722._ - - _Illustrissimo_ Heneagio _Comiti Winchilsea Animi fortitudine & - eruditione singulari plusquam titulis nobili, Antiquitatem hanc_ D. - Wˢ. Stukeley. _E. Kirkall sculp._] - -[Illustration: 32·2ᵈ. Kits Coty house _15. Oct. 1722. The N. E. - Prospect._ - - _The View_ _The Groundplot_ - - _Stukeley delin:_ _The lower_ Coty _house_ _E: Kirkall sculp:_] - -[Illustration: 33·2ᵈ. _A Prospect of the Country from_ Kits Coty - house _15 Oct. 1722_.] - -[Illustration: 34·2ᵈ. _View of the Ruins of the Lower Coty house._ A. - _The Upper Coty house._] - -[Illustration: 27 Dno. Samueli Lennard _Barr. ᵗᵒ Tabula Votiva_. - - _Stukeley delin._ _E. Kirkall sculp_ - - _5 Oct. 1722. Prospect of the Remains of_ Feversham Abby _where K. - Stephen was buried_.] - -[Sidenote: +Durolenum.+] - -From thence the Itinerary leads us to _Durolenum_. The learned Talbot -first guessed it to be Charing; and to me he seems to be in the right. -It is upon a spring of the river Len. The present name is derived from -the British _Caer_, as they called all Roman towns in after-times: -anciently it was wrote _Cering_ with a Saxon termination, intimating -the meadows it stands upon. Roman antiquities are found all about, but -nothing I have yet met withal, that particularly fixes the spot the -Roman city stood upon. Near is a manor called Broughton; Chart[110] -is the name of the hundred, from two little adjoining villages: but -at this place the distances answer well, and the roads in many parts -appear: that from hence to Canterbury passed by Chilham; so over the -river Stour by Sharnford, which retains the British name of a causeway. -The archbishops of Canterbury had a castellated palace at Charing, -probably given them by some of the first Saxon kings, as a royal -demesne of theirs: there are large ruins of it still left. Here was a -chantry founded by Sir John Burley. All the ground upon the river Len -at the bottom of the great ridge of hills is sand, sometimes exceeding -white; between that and the bottom of the hills it is flinty: the hills -themselves are pure chalk. All Kent consists of large tracts of ground -gradually rising from the east to a western ridge steep that way, so -succeeded by another of like manner; but any of these tracts are made -up of little hills and short valleys, quite of a different nature from -those on the west side of the island: and Mr. Camden has observed this -before us, as to the northern part of the island, p. 533. _Britannia_. -We may gather an idea of the natural reason of it from what we spoke at -first, of the ground hardening upon the instant of the earth’s rotation. - -After we have made this excursion with Antoninus, to take in these -two stations, which seems to have been done to conduct travellers the -nearest way to the _portus Lemanis_, we return again to Rochester, that -we may finish the progress of the Watling-street. - -[Sidenote: +Feversham.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XXVII.] - -[Sidenote: +Newington.+] - -[Sidenote: Ro. _town_.] - -From Rochester the Watling-street continues very strait to Canterbury, -by Feversham, whither I went to visit the remains of the monastery -founded by king Stephen, and where he was buried with his family. At -present nothing left but two gate-houses, and they of mean structure: -the hall was standing intire within this forty year; but now the whole -monastery is level with the ground, and converted into orchards, so -that I could not so much as guess at the place where the church was. -They have a report still, that at the dissolution of abbeys they took -up the coffin of lead wherein the king was buried, and sold it: as -for his corpse, they threw it into the Thames. Here king Ethelstan -enacted laws, anno 903. At Newington seems to have been another -station: many Roman coins and antiquities have been found there. Vide -large accounts thereof in Burton’s Itinerary, p. 181. and Casaubon’s -translation of Antoninus Philos. Beyond Broughton, which seems to have -been another,[111] you come to a very high hill, steep on the west. The -Watling-street here first presents the tower of the cathedral in its -line, and both together make a fine show: - - _Apparet rursum moles operosa viarum, - Consurgit stratis agger ubique suis._ - -[Sidenote: +Durovernum.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XCVI.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. LIV.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XXV.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XXIV.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XXV.] - -Canterbury is deservedly famous for religious as well as Roman -antiquity, being the place where christianity first made its entrance -among our Saxon ancestors. Here are many remains of Roman buildings, -many made of Roman materials in the Saxon times: many antiquities found -in digging about the hop-grounds; your lordship has quantities of them. -The city is strongly walled about, and many lunettes or towers at due -intervals; a deep ditch close underneath, and a great rampart of earth -within. The original ground-plot here, as in many other cities, is -spoiled by churches built in the middle of streets. To the south is -an old obscure gate, called Worth gate, partly walled up: it is under -the castle. This is intirely a Roman work: the semi-circular arch is -of Roman brick, beautifully turned; the piers of stone; the thickness -of it is three Roman feet. I suppose this the original gate of the -Roman city, and from hence went the road which presently divides itself -into two: the one goes by Chilham to _Durolenum_, over the river at -Sharnford, as we said; the other goes in a very strait line, by the -name of Stone-street, to the port of _Lemanis_. The castle built here -in William the Conqueror’s time, extending its limits beyond this gate, -was the occasion of blocking it up; and so Winchup gate was built a -little further eastward, to supply its use. The castle is much of the -same form as that at Rochester, and the walls of the same thickness. A -little further within the walls is a very high mount, called Dungeon -hill: a ditch and high bank inclose the _area_ before it: it seems to -have been part of the old castle. Opposite to it without the walls is a -hill, seeming to have been raised by the Danes when they besieged the -city. The top of Dungeon hill is equal to the top of the castle, and -has a fine prospect over the city and country. The materials of the -city-walls are chiefly flint. Next to this, where the Watling-street -comes,[112] is Riding-gate, built by a mayor of the city, but evidently -in the place of the Roman one; for there is part of the Roman arch, -and the pier of one side, still visible, but much lower than the -present gate: and in a yard close by is part of the arch of a postern, -or foot-gate, by the side of it: these arches are of Roman brick, -and there are in the wall here and there some more fragments of the -Roman work. The draught of it I have given in the plate of the city -ground-plot, 96. Hence the Watling-street passes directly to Dover, -over Barham downs. Next to East-gate is another gate, opposite to -what they call St. Ethelbert’s tower: this is the way to the port of -_Rutupium_. Here is the famous monastery of St. Augustin, the first -metropolitan, built, as they say, near the palace of the converted -king Ethelbert: two gates remain next the city, and both very stately: -perhaps one belonged to the palace, the other to the monastery, which -doubtless as magnificent as richly endowed; and such its ruins -demonstrate, and the great compass of ground it took up, incircled with -a very high wall. Great vying was ever here between the religious of -St. Austin and of Tho. à Becket, both very rich and contentious. At -the west end of this church, as I conjecture, were two great towers: -half of one is still remaining, called Ethelbert’s tower: all the whole -stones and pillars about it are skinned off as far as they can reach; -and every year a buttress, a side of an arch, or the like, passes _sub -hasta_. There is part of the other standing, if it can be so said, -that is only not fallen; I call it _muro torto_: it is a vast angular -piece of the tower, about thirty foot high, which has been undermined -by digging away a course at bottom, in order to be thrown down; but it -happened only to disjoint itself from the foundation, and leaping, as -it were, a little space, lodged itself in the ground in that inclining -state, to the wonderment of the vulgar who do not discern the meaning -of it, though the foundation it came from is sufficiently visible: thus -happening to be equally poized, it is a sight somewhat dreadful, and -forbids a too near approach on any side, with the apprehension of its -falling that way. Under St. Ethelbert’s tower is the porch where St. -Augustin and his six successors, as Bede tells us, were interred: the -arched roof is left, but ready to fall: the pavement is gone, in the -middle of which was an altar. The adjacent close is full of religious -ruins and foundations, one great part turned into a stable near the -almery: all over they are busy in pulling it up, to sell the stones; -which generally pays the rent, and yet the tenants of such places -thrive never the more. In one corner of this field are the walls of -a chapel, said to have been a christian temple before St. Augustin’s -time, and reconsecrated by him to St. Pancras: a great apple-tree and -some plum-trees now grow in it: the lower part of it is really old, and -mostly made of Roman brick, and thicker walls than the superstructure: -there is an old Roman arch on the south side toward to altar, the top -of it about as high as one’s nose; so that the ground has been much -raised: the present east window is a pointed arch, though made of Roman -brick, later than St. Austin’s time: near it a little room, said to -have been king Ethelbert’s pagan chapel: however it be, both these and -the wall adjoining are mostly built of Roman brick: the breadth of the -mortar is rather more than the brick, and full of pebbles; but the mark -of the devil’s claws, there observed by the vulgar, is fantastical. -The garden and orchard adjoining seem to lie in their ancient form: -there is a large square mount close by the wall, which it equals in -height, and gives a prospect into the fields. Your lordship has a -huge water-pipe dug up among many other antiquities in a Roman bath -discovered at Canterbury: it is five inches and a half diameter at the -smaller end, seventeen long, seven in diameter at the broad end: they -were fastened into one another with strong terrace cement. The great -number of other antiquities of all sorts, found at and about this city, -make part of your fine collection. - -[Illustration: 96 DVROVERNVM. _5 Oct. 1722_ - - _Stukeley delin_ Collegæ charissimo Johi Gray M. D. Civitatē svā - _dd. W. Stukeley._ _I. Harris sculp_] - -[Illustration: 24 _The Ruins of Sᵗ. Augustins Church in the Porch of - which the English Apostle was bury’d, now called Ethelberts tower at - Canterbury Oct. 6. 1722._ - - _Dedicated to her Grace the Dutchess of Ancaster._ - - _Stukeley del._ _I.Vᵈᵉʳ. Gucht Sculp._] - -[Illustration: 25 _A View in Sᵗ Austins Monastery Canterbury_ - - _Sᵗ Gregorys Chappel_ - - _The Heathen chappel of Ethelbert. 6 Oct. 1722_ - - _Stukeley delin_ _Harris sculp_] - -Eastward of this, and farther out of the city, is the church of -St. Martin, said to be the christian place of devotion, where king -Ethelbert’s queen used to go, and St. Austin’s first see: it is built, -for the most part, of Roman brick: in the middle is a very large -old-fashioned font, supposed that where the king was baptised. North -of the city is a very small remnant of St. Gregory’s chapel, founded -probably by Austin to the honour of his patron. - -The cathedral of Canterbury is very stately, but neither in length, -breadth, nor height, especially in front, equal to Lincoln, in my -judgement: it is intirely vaulted with stone, and of a very pretty -model of building, but much too high for its breadth, as all Gothic -buildings were. I believe they got this ill taste from building upon -the old foundations, the ancient churches being much narrower and lower -than in the succeeding times: when greater riches flowed in upon them, -they carried their walls and roofs to an unseemly height. The place -where Thomas à Becket’s shrine stood, is sufficiently known by the mark -of the devoted knees quite around it, which have left deep impressions -in the hard coarse marble. The Black Prince has a noble monument of -brass: that of Henry IV. is a good tomb, and there is a pretty chapel -hard by, to say mass for him. There is an old picture of arch-bishop -Becket’s martyrdom, as called; and upon the wall an old painting of the -siege of Jerusalem, in our old habits. Here are several monuments of -the bishops. The metropolitan chair is of grey marble, standing behind -the high altar: the cloysters are pretty good, and a very large chapel -near them, called Sermon-house, wainscotted with Irish oak. The reason -of the ancient name of this British city seems intimated in this verse -of Virgil, - - _Divinosque lacus & averna sonantia silvis._ Æn. iii. - -The poor derivation of the commentators thereon ought to be referred to -Tuscan original, to which our Celtic is a-kin. - -[Sidenote: +Rutupiæ.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XXXV. 2d Vol.] - -Leaving Canterbury,[113] I journeyed to find out _Rutupiæ_. At Wingham -I saw a very large barrow, of Celtic make, by the road side, called -the Mount: upon enquiry I found there were several more in the parish, -and that a lane here is called Port-lane; doubtless the Roman road, -for here the common road goes more southward. The Roman city and port -without peradventure was the place now called Stonar, or _Stanar_, -as they pronounce it, from the stony foundations I chuse to think; -over-against Sandwich, or rather half a mile lower upon the river -coming from Canterbury, and almost incompassed by it. This river at -first discharged itself into the sea by Ebbesflete, north of the Roman -city, till the sand, pouring so directly upon it, obliged the stream -to slide under the cliff by Richborough castle, and so by Sandwich: -then, coming in obliquely by the weight of its waters, it maintains -its passage. I conceit the etymology of _Rhutupium_, about which the -learned contend much, is to be sought for in this _Ebbesflete_; and -that this water was originally called _Ube_, or _Tyvi_: _rhyd tyf_ or -_tyvi_, is the passage over it: the Saxons called it _Reptacester_, a -contraction only from _Rhutupicester_: and so our _Ebbe_ at present -came from them; _Ruptimuth_ anciently. Hence you see far into the isle -of Thanet and Ramsgate cliff, named from the Romans, thrusting its -chalky promontory into the sea. This was the chief port for the Roman -navy.[114] At present there is only a farm-house or two, standing on -an elevation in the marshes: they informed me that here had been a -great city, and that they can discover all the streets when the corn -is on the ground; and those streets are nothing but pure gravel laid -very deep: innumerable stones and foundations have been dug up, but now -mostly evacuated; and no doubt Sandwich was built out of it. The river -runs close by it, with difficulty preserving its current to the sea; -but no doubt originally it was an open beach, or port: perhaps the city -itself was an island. The old mouth of the river is now filled up by -the astonishing quantity of small pebbles thrown into this bay by the -roll of the ocean: you see here a hundred acres of this flat -ground covered over with them six or seven foot deep, and looking blue -like the water. I fancied the people that lived here, in like danger -with those that travel the sandy deserts of Africa, or Arabia. Here -are two elevations, where they say two churches stood: upon one, where -an elder-tree grows, much rubble and stone is left, but no part of any -building; nor is it easy to distinguish what it was originally. - -[Illustration: 35·2ᵈ. View of Portus Rutupiæ from Sandwich. _7. -Oct. 1722._ - - _South West view of_ Richborough Castle. - - _Stukeley delin:_ _E. Kirkall sculp:_] - -[Illustration: 97 Richborow _Castle of the Romans 7 Oct. 1722_. - Auspiciis Doctissimi D. Tancred Robinson M. D. &c. - - _Stukeley delin:_] - -[Illustration: 36·2ᵈ. _The Remains of the_ Castrensian Amphitheater - _at Richborough Castle. Oct. 7. 1724._ - -_Stukeley. delin:_ _E. Kirkall. Sculp:_] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XCVII.] - -[Sidenote: Amphitheatre] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XXXVI. 2d Vol.] - -Richborough castle, as now called, was the fort as it were to this -city, and station of the garrison, which was to watch and defend the -port and sea-coast hereabout; or rather one of those castles built upon -the _littus Saxonicum_, in the time of Theodosius: it is a mile off -Stanar and Sandwich, situate upon the highest elevation near hand, and -being the only small part of a bold shore in all this bay: the river -runs at the foot of it, - - ———— _arvaque & urbem - Littore diductam angusto interluit æstu._ +Virg.+ Æn. iii. - -It is a most noble remnant of Roman antiquity, where in later times of -their empire the _Legio_ II. _Aug._ was quartered: the walls on three -sides are pretty intire, and in some places still about twenty-five or -thirty foot high, without any ditch: the side next the sea being upon -a kind of cliff, the top of the wall is but level with the ground: -beside, at the east angle the wall descends to another slope just upon -the river, which seems to have been in the nature of an outwork, or -gradual ascent into the castle: the ground on the inside is pretty much -raised. In the middle of the north-east side there is a square work -jutting out from the wall, which seems to have been an oblique[115] -gate to enter at, for those that came from the water side; and it -is not unlikely that gap on the north-west side was another gate: -it was a square CV. paces one way, CL. the other; according to the -Roman method of making camps, a third part longer than their breadth. -There is a foundation within, which has caused many words among the -Kentish antiquaries; seems to have been a _Pharos_, or lodging for the -commanding officer, a _prætorium_: there are foundations of several -apartments, the walls monstrously thick and strong. It is manifest -to any one that seriously contemplates the ruins of the walls in -divers places, that this castle was destroyed by great violence and -industriously; I guess, by the Saxons immediately after the Romans left -the island, when they could more boldly make descénts upon the coast: -the reason why, is evident from the intent of these castles: upon the -eastern corner, especially, great piles of wall lie one upon another -like rocks: in other places cavities are hewn out of its thickness, -that would make good lodging-rooms: the manner of the composition of -the walls is seven courses of small hewn stone, which take up four -Roman feet: then two courses of Roman brick, which are white, like -the brick in the isle of Ely. I observe all the brick about Sandwich -to be of the same colour, made of whitish clay. The walls are twelve -foot thick: the inward body thereof is made of flint and excessive -hard mortar. Sandwich bears directly south. Dr. Holland talks of a -carved head over one of the gates; but I could find no such thing now. -In the way thither, upon an eminence is the carcass of a castrensian -amphitheatre made of turf; I suppose, for the exercise and diversion -of the garrison: the soil of it is gravel and sand, and has been long -ploughed over, that we need not wonder it is so level. There are three -Roman _tumuli_ before Sandwich west gate; one a windmill stands on: it -is not easy to assign which Contentus was buried under: - - _Contentum tellus quem Rutupina tegit._ +Auson.+ - -South of Sandwich, as we go along upon the sea-shore, are six large -and broad Celtic _tumuli_, equidistant: the second from the town has -been dug away, to raise a little fort upon the road: they all stand in -a line east and west.[116] This flat coast is fenced against the ocean -by the sand-downs, which in Lincolnshire we call _meals_: but within -the memory of man, as they told me, the sea has commenced a new method -of guarding against its own violence, by covering the shore, for a -great depth and height, with the pebbles afore mentioned; which is an -odd mutation in nature; and it is observable that these pebbles come -from the south. I rode from Sandwich as far as Hithe, upon the brink -of the shore or cliff, in sight of France all the way; and nothing -could be more entertaining in this autumnal season, when the weather -is generally clear, serene and calm. Much sea _tithymal_ grows here, -and a very pretty plant, _papaver cornutum flore luteo_, rock samphire -feeding upon _petroleum_, a most excellent pickle, and many more.[117] -The murmur of the ocean has a noble solemnity in it, as Homer says, -when latinised, - - _Eructante salo raucam dant littora vocem._ - -More copiously expressed in Virgil, - - _Et gemitum ingentem pelagi, pulsataque saxa, - Audimus longe, fractasque ad littora voces. - Exsultantque vada atque æstu miscentur arenæ._ Æn. iii. - -which is an exact idea of this place. By listening attentively I -observed this noise of the ocean is by fits, at short but equal -intervals; which I believe gave occasion to that fancy of the ancients, -that every tenth wave was the largest; of which Ovid has a distich. - -[Sidenote: TAB. XXXVII. 2nd Vol.] - -Sandown castle is composed of four lunettes of very thick arched -work of stone, with many port-holes for great guns: in the middle -is a great round tower, with a cistern at top; underneath an arched -cavern, bomb-proof: a foss incompasses the whole, to which there is -a passage over a draw-bridge. Deal castle and Walmer castle are of -the same nature, all built by Harry VIII. to guard this naked level -coast: moreover, lines are drawn along between castle and castle, and -at proper intervals round bastions with a ditch and parapet of earth, -where cannon may be planted, as in the infancy of fortification. These -are what Camden calls _Rome’s works_, and fancies to be remnants of -Cæsar’s ship-camp: the neighbours with as little truth affirm they were -thrown up by Oliver Cromwell, for reduction of these castles: -one is close by the north side of Deal, and two between Deal castle -and Walmer castle. At Walmer castle the cliff begins for about half a -mile southward with a gentle rise to a hill, whereon is a _tumulus_: -then the shore is plain again in a valley till you come to Kings-wold, -which is half a mile’s space. Between Walmer castle and Deal I take to -be the spot where Cæsar landed in his first expedition, because it is -the first place where the shore can be ascended north of Dover, and -exactly answers his assigned distance of eight miles: probably in his -second expedition, when he came with many more ships, and had a perfect -knowledge of the country, he went a little farther in the downs, -whereabouts now is Deal, a town lately sprung up from the mariners. As -for his sea-camps, it is vain to expect a sight of them; they are many -ages since absorpt by the ocean, which has so long been exercising its -power, and wasting the land away. Even since Harry the VIIIth’s time -it has carried off the sea-ward _esplanades_ of the three castles, and -one half of two of the three circular forts. Indeed, of late years, -the providential ejectment of those pebbles has put a stop to it in -some measure; and it is amazing to see how it by degrees fills up these -fosses and trenches, and sometimes flies over the banks a good way up -into the land, with a power well expressed by the poet, - - _Aut vaga cum Tethys Rutupinaque littora fervent._ +Lucan.+ vi. - -But of this affair of Cæsar’s I reserve to myself another opportunity -of speaking, when I shall expresly treat of his expedition hither. At -Deal castle is a very good well, though close by the sea. - -[Illustration: 37·2ᵈ. _A Prospect towards Deal from yᵉ Barrow South of - Walmer Castle._ - - _Stukeley delin._ _Toms. Sculp._] - -[Illustration: 38·2ᵈ. _The Appeareance of the Roman_ DVBRIS - - _Stukeley delin._ _Toms Sculp._] - -Now my journey lay intirely upon the edge of the cliffs, whose -precipicious height, with the noble prospect at sea, and most awful -roaring of the waves, filled the mind with a sense of Nature’s majesty. -About St. Margaret’s on cliff, near the light-houses, I saw in two -places a great number of little _tumuli_, of unequal bulk, close by -one another; and the like I found frequently about Barham downs, -and between Hardres[118] and Chilham, and other places. I know not -that such have ever been taken notice of: the people say they were -burying-places of the Danes; probably digging into them might give us -some satisfaction. I believe them Celtic, because I saw many sorts of -them, and such as appear on Salisbury plain. - -[Sidenote: +Dubris Portus.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XXXVIII. 2nd Vol.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XXXIX. XL. 2d Vol.] - -Dover is a most romantic situation: it is a great valley, and the only -one about this coast where water is admitted inwards of the cliff, here -very high; and a running brook discharges itself into the sea:[119] -the water formerly came a good way higher up, and made a large port; -and they have found anchors above the town. The Roman city of _Dubris_ -was to the south of the river: the Watling-street enters it at Bigin -gate, coming very strait from Canterbury over Barham down, where it -is very perfect:[120] butting directly upon the great tower of the -cathedral, it bears a little more northerly than north-west. This city -was an oblong square, and some of the walls are left: the churches -are of a very antique make: that of St. Martin is collegiate, founded -by Wightred king of Kent; it is a venerable ruin: the east end seems -to have terminated in three semi-circular works: it was built in form -of a cross, as to its main body. Much remains of the priory, now a -farm-house. The _maison dieu_ over-against it is become a store-house: -here the knights Hospitallers or Templars lodged, coming into, or going -out of, the kingdom. The piers that form the haven, or large bason, are -costly and great works: above is a fort with four bastions of modern -date. The broad beach which lies at the mouth of this great valley, and -was the harbour in Cæsar’s time, is very delightful: it is no little -part of the diversion, in walking there, to observe the odd produce -of the ocean thrown up under your feet, and the sea-plants that grow -there; the _umbelli_, _star-fishes_, many curious fossils and shells; -the _eringo_, _sea-lungs_, _sea-weed_, or _ood_ as called, &c. One long -street here is named Snare-gate, from the most tremendous rocks of -chalk hanging directly over the houses; as Cnarsborough in Yorkshire, -says Mr. Camden, p. 715. - -[Sidenote: +Dover Castle.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XLVIII.] - -[Sidenote: _Roman._ +Pharos.+] - -The castle is the strongest place in the world, of old fortification; -it takes up thirty acres of ground: it is an amazing _congeries_ of -walls, ditches, arches, embattlements, mounts, and all imaginable -contrivances to render it impregnable after the old mode: but with -highest regret I beheld this most noble and memorable fortress, once -thought the key of Britain, and that has divers times had the honour to -save the kingdom from conquest and slavery, now become a common prey -to the people that belong to it: in the late wars with France they -kept 1500 prisoners in the great castle; but within this twelvemonth -they have carried away the timbers and floors, disabling it even for -that use. Thus much I think out of gratitude is its due; let it stand -a monument of antiquity, or sink slowly by its own ruin. The brass gun -called Queen Elizabeth’s Pocket-pistol is a great curiosity, twenty-two -foot long: it requires fifteen pound of powder, and carries a ball -seven miles (as the gunner told me;) it is excellently well wrought. I -saw two very old keys, and a brass horn, which seem to be the ensigns -of authority belonging to the constable of the castle, or lord warden -of the cinque ports. One part of the fortifications consists of a large -circular work, in which stands the old church, said to have been built -by Lucius, an ancient king of the Britons, and first christian. Bishop -Stillingfleet thinks he is no romantic person, but reigned in Kent and -Sussex: however that be, I believe this church is as ancient as the -time assigned him. There is not much doubt to be made, that upon this -hill was a _castrum_ of the Romans, like that at Richborough, to guard -this haven. It is somewhat surprizing that our Saxon ancestors should -take great pains to demolish Roman works, though they wanted such in -the same places, and were forced to build them again. I look upon it -as an argument that they had no thoughts of conquering the island -at first, and destroyed these bulwarks, that such might not hinder -their depredations; but espying the nakedness of the land, thoroughly -evacuated of its youth and men of arms by the Romans, they found a -conquest practicable: then were they obliged to repair these -castles. The church we are speaking of was built, in the first times -of christianity, out of part of the Roman ruins, whence there are huge -quantities of Roman bricks laid into the work: the arches are intirely -turned with them; the corners and many parts, both within and without, -are built up therewith; and the remainder is of stone originally cut -by the Romans: it is in form of a cross, and has a square tower in -the middle. I have represented the drawing of it in plate 48. The -stone windows of this church are of later date than the building; they -have been put in long since: but the greatest curiosity here is the -_Pharos_, or Roman watch-tower, standing at the west end of the church: -notwithstanding it is so much disfigured by new daubing with mortar, -casing and mending, I discovered its primary intention the first minute -I saw it; and sent the three prints of it, which I here present the -reader, to monsieur Montfaucon, at the instances of my most honoured -lord, the archbishop of Canterbury. I was in hopes they would have been -more useful to that celebrated author; for therein at least he might -have found, that the building which he first took for a _Pharos_, and -whereof he gives us four views, is only the tower of the church we were -talking of. The description of this curious work, which I believe the -most perfect of any left, in short is thus. - -[Illustration: 39·2ᵈ. The Prospect of DOVER _9 Oct. 1724_. - - _Stukeley delin._ _Toms sculp._] - -[Illustration: 40·2ᵈ. _The Appearance of Dover at the time of Cæsar’s - Landing._ - - _Stukeley delin._ _Toms sculp._] - -[Illustration: 48 ROMANO-SAXONIC. - - _The Old Church & Roman Pharos in Dover Castle. 8. Oct. 1722._ - - _Sᵗ. Martins Church near Canterbury where K. Ethelberts Queen us’d - to goe to Christian Service._ - - Erudito viro et Amicissimo Johi Hardy de Nottingham. - - _Tabulam hanc vovet W. Stukeley_ - - _Stukeley delin._ _I. Harris Sculp_] - -[Illustration: 47 _The_ Ichnography & Section of the +Roman Pharos+ - _in_ +Dover+ _Castle_. - - Tabulam Architectonicam Dno. Jacobo Thornhil-Equiti, ad Rem - Pictoriam Servienti - - Regio. D.D. _Wˢ. Stukeley._ - - _Stukeley del._ _I.Vᵈᵉʳ. Gucht Sculp._] - -[Illustration: 46 +The Roman Pharos in Dover Castle+ 8 Oct. 1722. - - _Quæ olim_ Romanis _navigantibus facem præbuit_ - Pharon _in Castro Dubriensi_ Rogᵒ. Gale Arm. - _consecratum posuit_ Wˢ. Stukeley 1722. - - _Stukeley delin._ _E Kirkall sculp._] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XLVII.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XLVI.] - -In the 47th plate we have shown the ground-plot upon which it is -formed, and a section of the work; whence we may readily observe that -the design is simple, but admirably contrived for its use and purpose: -the base is octagonal without, within a square; but the sides of the -square and octagon are equal, viz. fifteen Roman feet, which reduces -the wall to the thickness of ten feet. In this manner it was carried -up to the top, which was much higher than at present; but it retires -inward continually from all sides, with much the same proportion as an -Egyptian _obelus_. Upon four of these sides there are windows narrow, -handsomely turned with a semi-circular arch of Roman brick six foot -high, so that the outside of it appears as in our 46th plate. The -door to it is on the east side, about six foot wide, very well turned -over head, with an arch made of a course of Roman brick and stone -alternately, fourteen foot high. All the stones of this work are of -a narrow scantling; and the manner of the composure, throughout, is -perfectly the same with that lately described at Richborough castle: -there are first two courses of this brick, which is level with the -bottom of the windows; then seven courses of hewn stone, which mount up -to the top of the windows; then two courses of brick, seven of stone -alternately, to the top; every window by this means reaching to a stage -or story. There are five of these stages left: the windows are visible -enough to a discerning eye, though some be stopt up, others covered -over, others have modern church-like windows of stone put in. I suppose -the inside was intirely filled up with a stair-case: the height of what -is left is forty foot; I believe there was twenty foot more originally; -and the whole number of windows on a side was eight. This building was -made use of as a steeple, and had a pleasant ring of bells in it, which -Sir George Rook procured to be carried away to Portsmouth. Since then -the office of the ordnance, under pretext of savingness, have taken -away the lead that covered it, and left this rare piece of art and -masonry to struggle with the sea, air and weather. Mr. Degg gave me -a coin of Dioclesian, found here. The Erpinghams arms are patched up -against one side of the _Pharos_, being two bars and a canton; so that -I suppose it was repaired in Henry the Fifth’s time, lord Erpingham -then warden of Dover castle. In the Roman castle here the Tungrican -soldiers had their station. I have heard there is another such _Pharos_ -at St. Andrew’s in Scotland.[121] - -On the other high cliff opposite to this, beyond the town, has been -another _Pharos_: some part of the bottom part of it is still left, -called The Devil’s Drop, from the strength of the mortar: others call -it Bredonstone. Here the new constable of the castle is sworn. If we -consider the ancient state of Dover, we must imagine that the little -river ran directly into the sea, and left a harbour close to the walls -of the town; but in process of time, as the sea threw up that vast -beach which lies between the town and it, the river was forced by an -oblique passage to creep along the shore under the southern cliff, -and there vent itself where now is the harbour. This is what Nature -practises in the microcosm in innumerable instances, as the passage -of the gall and pancreatic juice into the intestines, in the duct of -the urine from the ureters into the bladder, of the chyle into the -torrent of the blood, insinuating themselves for some space between -the membranes. And this caution may be of service in forming harbours; -as in that costly work of the French king’s before Dunkirk, where two -banks or piers projected for half a mile through the sands directly, -which ought rather to have gone downwards a little towards the fall of -the tide. The cliffs here are of solid chalk to the very bottom, full -of the blackest flints; and those at Calais seem perfectly like them; -and no doubt a long vein of chalk is continued from one to the other -under the sea, and perhaps through many countries: but that these two -places were ever contiguous, or joined by an isthmus, is chimerical. - -Though the mariners have much mathematics on board, and in all their -tackle and machinery, yet here I had occasion of observing a gross -error, that has not been thought on, in the shape of their oars; where -the extremity of that fan-like part, which opposes the water in rowing, -is broadest. Now this is quite contrary to Nature’s method, who is the -best geometrician in like cases: in the shape of a single feather, -or in the wings of birds, the extremity is always pointed, and the -broadest part is nearest the joint where the power lies, analogous -to the _fulcrum_ of leavers; therefore is drawn off to a narrower -scantling, as the part recedes from it, and the effect of the moving -force: thus it is even in the wings of butterflies, and all other -insects, as well as birds; and so in the water-beetles that row with -oars. Though the broad part resists the water more as farther distant -from the _fulcrum_, yet it requires more proportionable strength; and -in my judgment, therefore, oars ought to be made quite the contrary -way, and drawn off into a point, the broadest part nearest the hand; -and I doubt not but equal strength will then out-row the other, -_cæteris paribus_.[122] - -Beyond Dover southward the cliff is exceedingly high to Folkstone. -In the road two great Roman barrows, which will be eaten away in a -few years by the sea. Here this larger track of cliff ends, as to the -ocean, and slaunts off westward towards Wye in a long ledge very steep -all the way to the west. The whole county of Kent consists of three -or four of these parcels, lying parallel, and running nearly north -and south: they rise gently from the east as a reclining plain, and -then end suddenly on the western side with a quick descent: at bottom -begins another such plain, and it ends in like manner after it has -gone its proper distance, to be alike succeeded, as we said before. -Beyond this we are upon, southward is a lesser ledge of high ground -sandy and rocky, but good land, especially in the valleys, and full -of wood. This is terminated by Romney marsh, such another country as -our Lincolnshire Holland. To the right of us is Eleham, seated in a -pleasant concavity: there has been a religious house. Upon one end of -our upper chalk-hills, near Folkstone, is a camp called Castle hill. - -[Illustration: 98 View of Folkston——+Lapis TITVLI+. - - _Stukeley d, & Nobilissimo Comiti - Winchilsea d. d_.] - -[Sidenote: +Lapis Tituli.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XCVIII.] - -Now descending, Folkstone[123] offers itself, still standing on a -cliff, but not so high as the former, and of a rocky composure, the -other being chalk: it was anciently called _Flostane_, a lesser rock, -or cliff of stone; so that it probably was the _lapis tituli_ of the -Romans. Here is a copious spring runs through the town. Near the -church, upon the sea side, is a square plain, like that I observed at -Burgh in Lincolnshire, and was of the same use. I saw two pieces of old -wall hanging over the terrible cliff, seemingly of Roman work: here are -some old guns, one of iron of a very odd cast, no doubt as old as Henry -the Eighth’s time. Many Roman coins have been found here. A nunnery was -built by Eanswide, a religious daughter of Eadbald king of Kent. - -I passed by Sandgate castle, another of those built by Henry VIII. -in a little valley where the shore is plain: then we enter upon the -beach. Here are many springs which come down from the higher ground, -and sink immediately into this beach, rendering it a little boggy: this -I thought very odd. You ride through a wood of sea-poppy, which is a -fine variety in nature, casting all the numerous seeds into a long -pod, instead of the common globular head: the leaves look hoary, like -sea-ragwort, and are finely crisped; the flowers of a most delicate -yellow, taken notice of by the poet, - - _Ore floridulo nitens - Alba parthenice velut - Luteumve papaver._ +Catull.+ - -[Sidenote: +Hythe.+] - -Hythe stands on the edge of this lesser ridge, but the marsh has -intercepted it from the sea. They talk much of their charnel-house full -of human bones, said to have been the massacred Danes; but I thought it -not worth going to see, nor believed their report of it. They say this -has been a great city, and reached as far as West Hythe, where is an -old ruinous chapel: they mean undoubtedly the city of _Lemanis_. Here -were two hospitals, St. Bartholomew’s, and St. Leonard’s. - -I visited Saltwood castle, in hopes to find somewhat Roman, as is -reported: it is a very strong seat of the archbishop’s: the outer wall -has towers and battlements, and a deep ditch: within, and on one side, -stands the main body of the place: two great and high towers at the -gate of this, over which are the founder’s arms, archbishop Courtney, -in two escutcheons; the first impaled with those of the see; the other -plain, a label over three plates. This inner work has a stronger and -higher wall, with a broad embattled parapet at top: within is a court, -but the lodgings are all demolished: the floor of the ruinous chapel is -strongly vaulted: in the middle of the court is a large square well, -which is the only thing I saw that looked like Roman. It is said that -hereabouts anchors are dug up; which, if true, is not owing to the -sea’s coming so high, as the vulgar think, for that is impossible; but -to an iron forge of the Romans, conveniently placed, where so much wood -grows, so near the sea, and so many ports. They say too that Roman -coins are found at Newington, not far off here. - -[Sidenote: +Lemanis+ Portus.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XCIX.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. LVIII.] - -A little way further, at the end of the Stane-street,[124] the Roman -road from Canterbury; and at a proper distance from thence is the port -of _Lemanis_. I am surprized that some Kentish antiquaries should, -by pretended corrections of the Itinerary, send it farther off to -the southern coasts. As soon as I came to Limne church, looking -from the brow of the hill to the subjacent marshes, I descried the -tattered Roman walls, situate on this southern decline, almost at -the bottom. One would imagine the name came from the _Stone-street_; -for such it literally signifies, _via lapidea_: this is a solid rock -of stone laid out in a strait line between here and Canterbury. Thus -in Yorkshire another Roman road is called _Leming-lane_, from its -stony composure. _Lhe_ signifies a way in British; _maen_, a stone. -Its present appellation of _Studfal_ castle gives occasion to some -uncouth etymologies: without any difficulty I think it derived from -_stæd-weall_, the sea-shore, in Saxon; so that it signifies no more -than _castrum littoreum_. This fine remnant of Roman work, and which -was the garrison of the Turnacensian band, hangs as it were upon the -side of the hill; for it is pretty steep in descent: the walls include -about twelve acres of ground, in form somewhat squarish, without any -ditch: a pretty brook, arising from the rock west of the church, runs -for some space on the east side of the wall; then passes through it, -and so along its lowermost edge by the farm-house at bottom. The -composition of the wall is similar to that of Richborough; but instead -of hewn stone and regular courses, as there, the interval between -the three layers of Roman brick is made of rag-stone: the brick too -is of the same whitish kind, but remarkably thin. I suppose the clay -shrank much in burning. This interval of stone is four feet of Roman -standard: the walls are twelve foot thick, and have some round holes at -equal spaces, that run quite through, as we observed at _Sorbiodunum_ -and _Verolanium_ perhaps to let the air in for drying the wall, being -of so great a thickness. Here are several of the circular, or rather -elliptic buttments, as thick as the wall, like those at the castle of -_Garionenum_, near Yarmouth in Norfolk, in plate 58. which my worthy -and learned friend Mr. Hare gave me from his own mensuration. It is a -piece of masonry, I must own, unaccountable to me: they are like round -towers or bastions, but solid; and some scarce join to the wall at the -sides, but go quite through to the inside. The circuit of this wall is -manifest enough on three sides, but that southward is levelled to the -ground: every where else, where not standing, it lies sideways, flat, -close by, in prodigious parcels; or where standing, cracked through the -whole solid thickness, as if Time was in a merry humour, and ruined it -in sport: but I believe it is the effect of design and much labour, as -I said of Richborough: probably the Saxons or Danes thus dismantled -it, to render it useless against their incursions. Where this wall is -standing, it is ten foot high or more, made with excellent cement: on -the eastern side is such another gate, formed by the return of the -wall, as at the place last mentioned. Geo. Hunt, an old man, living in -the farm-house, told me he has found coins here: he says, once -the sea-bank broke, and his house with all the adjacent marshes was -floated: for the level of the ocean is higher than this place; but it -has fenced itself out by raising the ground continually near the shore, -as it does in other like marshes. Whether the sea reached this lower -wall, even in the time of the Romans, I cannot determine; for I do not -believe this was the very port, but the castle belonging to it: that, I -rather think, was somewhat more eastward, about West Hithe; and there, -the town that belonged to it: for they find old foundations frequently -under the side of the hill, laid in strong terrace mortar. The rev. Mr. -Bagnal, minister of the place, informs me, that the field, of about -sixteen acres of ground, adjoining to the church-yard of Limne, is to -this day called the Northern town: nor do they know that it ever had -any other name; which intimates that the Roman town was thereabouts, -lying upon the slope of the hill, as the castle does, and to the east -of it. This port is now called Ship-way, where the _limenarcha_, or -lord warden of the cinque ports, was anciently sworn; where their -courts were kept, and all the pleas relating to these ports: since the -decay thereof, that ceremony is transferred to Dover. This Ship-way -too denominates the _lathe_, or division of the country. Leland says, -the people of Limne had an horn and mace, remaining ensigns of their -authority. - -Thus have we conducted our journey, for the space of 500 miles, all -upon Roman roads, to these three famous ports on the eastern shore, -where commonly the great Roman emperors and generals landed from the -continent; and in which we have run over such notices as occurred to us -in thirty-five Roman stations, many camps, and other things of highest -antiquity. The season of the year for expeditions being far spent, it -is time to release your lordship’s patience, and retire into harbour, -concluding with the great Roman wit, in his poetical voyage, - - _Lemanis longæ finis chartæque, viæque._ - - 10 Octob. 1722. - -[Illustration: 99 LEMANIS Portus _9 Oct. 1722_. - - _Dnᵒ. Hans Sloan Barrᵗᵗᵒ._ +M.D.+ _Tabulam d.d. W Stukeley._ - - _Stukeley Delin_] - -[Illustration: 58 GARIONENVM - - Borough Castle - - _3. Miles S.W. from Great-Yarmouth contains abᵗ 5. acres_ - - _Statio fuit hæc Præpositi Equitum Stablesianorum sub comite - Limitis Saxonici._ - - Henrico Hare Armᵒ. GARIONENVM sua manu dimensum consecrat - - _W. Stukeley._] - - - - - ITER DUMNONIENSE. VI. - - _Ipse locis capitur patriis & singula lætus - Exquiritque, auditque virûm monumenta priorum._ +Virg.+ - - - _To my Lord_ PEMBROKE. - -I have sometimes in travelling been apt, within my own mind, to make a -comparison between the excellence of the study of Philosophy, and that -commonly called Antiquity, that is, ancient history. The beauties and -the advantage of natural inquiries I cannot but be highly sensible of; -yet I must needs give the preference to the latter, as it more nearly -concerns the rational part of the creation, for whom the whole was -made: it is a comment upon the wonderful volumes of divine wisdom, and -the conduct of providence in the management of its supreme workmanship. -God has given us indeed a large manuscript of his power, and other -adorable attributes, in his wide-extended products, the furniture of -the world; but in man, a more correct epitome of himself; a delegated -immaterial particle of his spirituality, a self-moving principle of -free agency, from the very fountain of all existence. As he is the -great master-wheel and _primum movens_; so we are the subordinate -executors of his mighty purposes, by his direction and superintendence -carrying on the regular government and unseen operations thereof. -Whoever declaims against this, ought to be looked upon as one of a -poor, narrow way of thinking, and who does not deserve so much as that -noble faculty of the soul, reminiscence or memory, which is the same -to a single man, as ancient history is to the whole community: such a -one no more claims the name of a scholar, than he that knows but the -letters of the Alphabet, or whose study consists only in Gazettes. It -is the knowledge of antiquity that can give us a maturity in judgement, -either in persons or things; and how unfit such a one is, that is -destitute of it, in the executing the great offices of life, I need not -inculcate. - -But nothing I can say in favour of this subject, can be so great a -panegyric to it, as your lordship’s illustrious name prefixed. The -glorious ardour for this kind of learning, that kindled in your -younger years, and that through a long cultivation of it has produced -a boundless extent of knowledge, with the deepest penetration, the -strongest judgement, the fire of the soul, and all sublimest qualities -which the world admires in your lordship; bears down all opposition to -the study of antiquities, wherein you preside most worthily; wherein no -one dares to be rival, or hopes to be equal. We see the fruits of it in -the best-chosen library of ancient authors, in the best collection of -most ancient coins, statues, busto’s, and learned marbles, which the -world can show. You, my lord, by treading in the steps of the great -Arundel, have brought old arts, Greece and Rome, nay Apollo and all his -Muses, to Great Britain: Wilton is become tramontane Italy. - -Every part of learning is your lordship’s province, and sure of your -protection. But I have a particular happiness in laying before you -the following account of this summer’s journey, because the greatest -part of it was by your own direction, and as excursions I made whilst -at your lordship’s most delightful seat at Wilton. I shall begin with -what I observed in my tour about it, and proceed to my more western -perambulation through a country pregnant of antiquities, and the -greatest curiosities in the world. - -The _Belgæ_, the ancient inhabitants of this country, were a brave and -warlike people, when on their original continent; and we have no reason -to think, after transplantation on the British soil, they abated aught -of their courage and valour, natural to its inhabitants. These were -one of those powerful nations, whose conquest gave opportunity to the -emperor Vespasian highly to signalize his conduct when he first made a -figure in arms. Hence it is that we find so many camps hereabouts, from -the sea side to the midland parts; many of which were made by him, and -others by his undaunted opposers. The road from Wilton to Shaftesbury, -called the Ten-mile Course, is a fine ridge of downs, continued upon -the southern bank of the river Nader, with a sweet prospect to the -right and left, all the way, over the towns and the country on both -sides: a traveller is highly indebted to your lordship for adding to -his pleasure and advantage, in reviving the Roman method of placing a -numbered stone at every mile, and the living index of a tree to make it -more observable; which ought to be recommended as a laudable pattern -to others: thus C. Gracchus planted a stone at every mile, with the -distance inscribed, says Plutarch; and thus Rutilius, Itinerar. II. - - _Intervalla viæ fessis præstare videtur, - Qui notat inscriptus millia crebra lapis._ - -[Sidenote: +Chiselbury.+] - -[Sidenote: Br. _oppidum_.] - -Between Nᵒ 5. and 6. is a pretty large camp, called Chiselbury, upon -the northern brow of the hill: it is single ditched and of a roundish -form: before the chief entrance is an half-moon, with two apertures -for greater security: there is a ditch indeed goes from it downward -to the valley on both sides, but not to be regarded. This I imagine -relates not to the camp; for I observed the like across the same road -in many places between little declivities, and seem to be boundaries -and sheep-walks made since, and belonging to particular parishes. I -fancy this name imparted from some shepherd’s cot, anciently standing -hereabouts, in Saxon _Ccsol_. It seems to be a Roman camp, but of later -date. At the end of this course, when you come to the great chalk-hill -looking towards Shaftesbury, are three or four Celtic barrows, one long -and large, pointing east and west: in this hill is a quarry of stone, -very full of sea-shells. Not far off, in the parish of Tisbury, near -Warder castle, is a great intrenchment in a wood, which was probably a -British _oppidum_, and near the river before mentioned. - -[Sidenote: Carvilii _tumulus_.] - -Returning, we see upon the highest eminence that overlooks Wilton, -and the fertile valley at the union of the Nader and Willy, the -famous King-barrow, as vulgarly called: it is a round _tumulus_, -of a most ancient form, flat at top, and without any ditch. Your -lordship rightly judges it in situation to be one of the highest -barrows in England, being, by exact observation from the water-level -and calculation, at least four hundred foot above the surface of the -ocean. This, questionless, is a Celtic _tumulus_: and the very name, -inherent through long revolutions of time, indicates it to be the grave -of a king of this country of the _Belgæ_, and that Wilton was his -royal residence, which for goodness of air, of water and soil, joined -with the most delightful downs all around it, must highly magnify his -judgement in choice of a place second to none for all the conveniences -and delicacies of life. If we reflect a little upon the matter, it -appears a supposition far from improbability, that this is the very -monument of Carvilius mentioned by Cæsar, who, joining with the other -kings along the country on the sea-side from hence to Kent, attacked -his sea-camp on the Rutupian shore: and this was to make a diversion -to the great Roman general, pressing hard upon Cassibelan; for, as the -late learned and sagacious Mr. Baxter observes in his Glossary, where -should _Carvilius_ live, but among the _Carvilii_? as _Segonax_, one -of his confederates, among the _Segontiaci_; that is, _Segontium_, -or _Caersegont_, as the Britons call it; which is now Silchester. -And it seems to have been the fashion of that time for kings to be -denominated from the people or place they governed; as _Cassibelan_ -was in name and fact king of the _Cassii_; and many other instances -I might bring of like nature. Where then should _Carvilius_ live, -but at _Carvilium_, now Wilton; or where be buried, but in the most -conspicuous place near his palace? and no other barrow competitor to -leave any doubt or scruple. It is natural to suppose that the very spot -where his residence was, is the same where king Edgar’s queen spent -the latter part of her life in a religious house she built near your -lordship’s seat, being a hard dry soil, gravelly, and incompassed with -two fine rivers, which in early times added much to the security of the -place, and much sought for by the Britons. We took notice, when with -particular pleasure we visited his _tumulus_, and paid our respects to -the illustrious _manes_ of the royal defunct, that, among other views -of great distance, we could see Long-barrow beyond Stonehenge, and -all the long ridge of Martinsal hill, St. Ann’s hill, and Runwayhill -beyond that; upon which goes the great Wansdike, which I take to be the -northern boundary of the Belgic kingdom. I question not but one purpose -of this interment was to be in sight of the holy work, or temple, of -Stonehenge. Here then may we conclude rest the ashes of Carvilius, made -immortal by Caæsar for bravely defending his country; now resting in -the possessions of a successor, master of both their great qualities; -who, when wielding the British trident, in a fleet infinitely superior -to Cæsar’s, could assert a more universal empire. In you, my lord, -the memory of Carvilius flourishes again, in your eminent love for -your country’s honour, and in your care for preserving his monument, -and adorning it with fresh verdure; by planting four trees round its -edge,[125] and introducing it as a _terminus_, in one of the visto’s, -to the admirable equestrian statue of M. Aurelius, in the middle of the -principal star of your park. Thus, according to ancient usage, was the -_tumulus_ of Diomedes planted with the _platanus_ brought from Asia for -that purpose; as Pliny informs us in book XII. cap. +i+. - -[Illustration: 41 Chlori _Imp. Castrum vulgo_ Clorendon _Aug. 25. - 1723_. - - A. _Icening Street._ B. _Old Sarum._ C. _New Sarum._ D. _Clarendon - Park._ E. _Ford._ _Stukeley del:_] - -[Illustration: 67 _View from_ Harnham hill _Aug 26. 1723._ - - _Stukeley del._] - -[Sidenote: +Yarnbury.+ Ro. _camp_.] - -[Sidenote: +Amsbury.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. LXVII.] - -[Sidenote: +Chloridunum.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XLI.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. IX.] - -From hence riding along the hare-warren and end of the park, we are -entertained with the landscape of no less than five rivers, four -retaining the old British names: the villages on each side of them are -so thick, that they seem to join and form long cities in woods. About -the union of these rivers are three cities and three cathedrals within -a triangle, whose sides are less than three miles; Wilton, Old and New -Sarum. The _Nadre_ signifies a snake or adder, metaphorically drawn -from its winding current: it rises by the end of the Ten-mile course -above described, and passes by a pleasant village belonging to your -lordship, Chilmark, famous for its quarries; of a very good stone, -white, and that rises in any dimensions: there is now a single stone, -lying over the mouth of the quarry like an architrave, full sixty foot -long, twelve foot thick, and, as the workmen have assured me upon -examination, perfectly without flaw: sometimes here are found great -petrified oyster-shells. The Willy rises about Warminster, taking in a -little brook, the Dyver, passing under ground, runs by Yarnbury, a vast -Roman camp, where some think is Vespasian’s name; a great semi-circular -work at the entrance: several Roman coins have been found here. Not -far off is a ditch called Chiltern, which seems to be some division of -the hundreds. There is another camp on the other side the Willy: then -it runs by Grovely, a great wood of your lordship’s: it admits another -stream coming on the west side of Stonehenge from Orcheston, remarkable -for a long kind of grass, which without good proof I should scruple -relating, for it is commonly twenty-five foot in length, much coveted -by cattle; by Mr. Ray called _gramen caninum supinum longissimum_: -he says they use to fatten hogs with it. This Willy, that gives name -to Wilton, passes chiefly on the north side of the town, makes the -canal before the front of the house, and then joins the Nadre, coming -on the south side of the town and through the gardens, at the end of -the avenue. The Avon arises from under the great ridge of hills that -divides Wiltshire into north and south, crowned with the Wansditch: it -passes southward through innumerable villages to Ambsbury, the _pagus -Ambri_ famous for a monastery built by one Ambrus, which the monks and -fabulous writers have wrested into _Ambrosbury_; then for a celebrated -nunnery of noble-women, great numbers of whom, against the institution -of Nature and Providence, were here veiled: it is now the seat of my -lord Charlton, built by Inigo Jones, and deservedly to be admired: some -new works are added to it under the direction of my lord Burlington, -possessor of his spirit, and a noble collection of his designs. The -famous old city of _Sorbiodunum_ may be said to stand upon this river: -it meets with the other two just before it passes through Salisbury, -and beyond it receives the Bourn, which has dropped its proper name: -but I guess it to have been _Colin_ or _Colinity_, the same as _Clun_; -for at its fountain-head is _Colinburn_: all these rivers are called -_burns_, _Willyburn_, _Adderburn_, &c. below Salisbury enters another, -I suppose called _Ebbesburn_. From Harnham hill we have a view of both -Sarums: the old city, with its high-crested triple fortifications, -threatens all the circumjacent country: the new justly boasts of its -lofty spire, as wonderful for the slenderness of its foundation, as its -great height, being 450 foot, making one of the visto’s to the front -of Wilton-house. To the east is Clarendon, which your lordship first -observed, from old writings, ought to be called _Clorendun_, from the -famous Roman camp half a mile off the park near the Roman road: this -was made or repaired by Constantius Chlorus, father of Constantine the -Great; it was he that slew Allectus, after he had basely murdered the -valiant Carausius. Constantius lived at the neighbouring _Sorbiodunum_: -he was of British extract, the husband of Helena, a famous British -princess. This camp therefore, properly written, is _Chloridunum_, -being a beautiful fortification of a round form upon a dry chalk hill: -within is a circular ditch, having two entrances answering to the -entrances of the camp, and leaving a large space between it and the -_vallum_. I suppose this ditch was a lesser camp before, inlarged by -Chlorus, for keeping his legions as in a summer-camp before the city: -this they did by carrying away all the earth of the old _vallum_ to the -new; for it is evident the present rampart is of much larger quantity -than could be taken out of the subjacent ditch. Chlorendon park is a -sweet and beautiful place: here king John built him a palace, where -several Parliaments have been held: part of the building is still -left, though they have been pulling it down many years: it is chiefly -of flint, and was a large place upon the side of a hill, but no way -fortified. This palace of king John answers directly to the front visto -of Wilton house over the length of the great canal, and is called the -King’s Manor: they say here is a subterraneous passage to the Queen’s -Manor. Between the camp and the park runs a Roman road, which has not -been taken notice of, from _Sorbiodunum_ to Winchester full east and -west. - -[Sidenote: +Aukbury.+ Br. _oppidum_.] - -[Sidenote: +Walls.+ Vespasian’s _camp_.] - -[Sidenote: +Cheselbury.+] - -As we go from Wilton to Stonehenge, between Grovely wood and Woodford -runs a ditch across the plain, with a high rampart southward: the ditch -is broad, and goes east and west. I take it to be one of the boundaries -of the _Belgæ_, which I call the third: the reason will hereafter -appear. On the east side of the Avon, by Great Dornford, is a very -large camp covering the whole top of a hill, of no determinate figure, -as humouring the height it stands on: it is made intirely without any -ditch, the earth being heaped up very steep in the nature of a parapet, -when dug away level at the bottom. I doubt not but this was a camp of -the Britons, and perhaps an _oppidum_, where they retired at night from -the pasturage upon the river, with their cattle: within it are many -little banks, carried strait and meeting one another at right angles, -square, oblong parallels and some oblique, as the meres and divisions -between ploughed lands; yet it seems never to have been ploughed: and -there is likewise a small squarish work intrenched, no bigger than a -large tent: these to me seem the distinctions and divisions for the -several quarters and lodgements of the people within; for I have, upon -the downs in Dorsetshire, often remarked the like, of too small a -compass to be ploughed fields. This camp has an aspect very old; the -prominent part of the rampart in many places quite consumed by time, -though the steep remains perfect; one being the natural earth, the -other factitious: it certainly has so much of the manner of Vespasian’s -camp, as induces one to think it an imitation. I know not whether we -ought to derive the name of it from the British _Og_, signifying the -hurdles and pens they fence their cattle in with, which perhaps stood -upon those meres, or little banks, to distinguish every man’s property. -Vespasian’s camp is within sight of it, a little higher up the river, -and on the other side: it is a famous camp, properly and by universal -consent attributed to him, called the Walls; well chose, being a high -piece of ground at a flexure of the river, which closes in an end and a -side of it: the other side has a broad and very deep valley along it, -and at the other end is the entrance: the whole hangs over the town of -Amsbury: the manner of this camp too consists mostly in a rampire, but -much more operose than that last mentioned; the form oblong: the road -to the town goes quite through it: it is high in the middle, and has a -barrow inclosed, but partly level; this I suppose originally Celtic, on -account of its vicinity to Stonehenge, therefore elder than the -camp. The east side of Vespasian’s camp is sufficiently guarded by the -precipice of the river. Further northwards, in the road from Ambsbury -to Marlborough, is the remain of another round camp, extremely old, -and almost obliterated: this is between Collinburn and Burbich, upon -a rising ground, seemingly British: and on the west side of the river -Avon, over-against it, is another, called too Cheselbury, and said to -have a fair _prætorium_ in it. These camps so contiguous, with a river -between, seem still remains of Vespasian’s conquests; and that he got -the country by inches. - -[Illustration: 9 Ruins of King Johns Palace at Clarendon Aug. 3. 1723. - - _Stukeley. delin._] - -[Illustration: 44 Prospect of Martinsal hill, a Roman Camp 6 July 1723. - - A Prospect in Somersetshire 19. Aug. 1723. - - a. _Mountagu hill._ b. _a Camp._ c. _the Foss Road._ _Stukeley del:_] - -[Sidenote: +Martinshal Hill.+ Ro. _camp_.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XLIV.] - -North of these is Martinsal hill, a vast stationary Roman camp, upon -a high hill steep to the east, which is seldom observable. I measured -it quite round, in company with lord Hertford and lord Winchelsea: -it is conspicuous at a great distance, and within sight of all the -camps in the country. I take it to have been made when the Romans -were thoroughly possessors of the kingdom, and one of their chief -fortresses, whence they might give or receive signals all around, in -case of distress, by fire or smoke. On two sides the precipice is -dreadfully steep. Lord Winchelsea has a brass _Alexander Severus_ found -here; on the reverse, _Jupiter fulminans_, with PM. TR. P. COS. On the -west side, upon the top of the hill, without the camp is a round pit -full of good spring water, always to the brim but never overflowing in -the driest summers; which at those seasons is of greatest service to -the country round, and thousands of cattle are driven every day from -a considerable distance to drink there. I am told there is another -such upon the top of Chute hill, south east from hence, very high, -and no water within some miles of it. So provident has Nature been in -subliming, by some unknown powers, the liquid element to these barren -heights, that every part of her works should not be without its graces -and use. The prospect from Martinsal must needs be exceeding fine. -Salisbury steeple, twenty miles off, bears south-west and by west: the -port of this camp is north-east. - -[Sidenote: +Martinalia.+] - -I take the name of this hill to come from the merriments among the -northern people, called _Martinalia_, or drinking healths to the memory -of St. Martin, practised by our Saxon and Danish ancestors. I doubt not -but upon St. Martin’s day, or Martinmass, all the young people in the -neighbourhood assembled here,[126] as they do now upon the adjacent St. -Ann’s hill upon St. Ann’s day. The true word is _Martinsheil_, _heyl_ -signifying health; and the Germans call a bowl, or drinking-vessel, -_schale_: likewise _hali_ in the Saxon signifies holy; whence our -_hallow_; and the _Washeyl_ bowl at Christmass, full of spiced ale, -which they carry about, singing of carols in the streets. Monsieur -Keysler speaks of these matters largely in his _Antiquitates -Septentrionales_, p. 358. and that the German gilds, or societies, -were obliged to keep drinking festivals to St. Mary, St. Martin, St. -Nicholas, &c. p. 487. he says, at a village in _tractu Albino_, the -married women upon St. Martin’s day pay 4 d. to the questor: and the -Spring upon this hill still further favoured their ceremonies. So -beneficial a bason in heathen times merited divine honours; and the -people, not willing to part with a holy-day, blended their rites into -christian. The English took the opportunity of the day after this -great festival of St. Martin, much observed by the Danes, to commit -that universal massacre upon them drunken, which totally extirpated -them. This was anno 1002, upon the 13th of November, the feast day of -St. Brittius, says Chron. Joann. Alb. Petriburg. on _Hock_ Tuesday, -which Spelman says had its denomination thence. - -In the fields about Chute are bones dug up very plentifully, in a -place called Blood-field especially: they likewise found there a stone -coffin with a skeleton inclosed, and an arrow or spear-head of brass, -as described to me: there was a horse found buried about three yards -from the body. Whether this was Roman or British, I cannot affirm: I am -inclinable to think the latter: but it seems that a battle was fought -here between them. - -[Sidenote: +Barbury.+ Ro. _camp_.] - -[Sidenote: +Badbury.+] - -Full north from hence, upon the Barbury hills, the next ridge -overlooking the north part of Wiltshire, is another camp, called -Barbury, in the parish of Ogburn St. George. The noble lords late -mentioned assisted in measuring it: it is double ditched quite round, -the inner very deep, and rampart high, of a circular form; an entrance -upon the east, and another on the west diameter, which is 2000 Roman -foot long: at the west the inmost rampire retires inwards a little, -to make a port with jambs: eastward the outer ditch turns round with -a semi-circular sweep, leaving two passages through it obliquely to -the main entrance, like our modern half-moons: both these methods I -have often seen practised.[127] This mighty camp stands on one of the -western eminences of this ridge, running east and west; very steep -to the north and west, separating the high ground or downs from the -fertile country below, which belonged to the _Dobuni_, and lies under -the eye like a map, as far as the Welsh hills beyond the Severn; whose -lovely prospect would naturally animate the Britons in its defence, as -the Romans in its conquest: it is indeed a fine scene of woods, towns, -pastures, rivers and valleys. A little beyond, upon the same ridge, -is Badbury camp; and the whole is well planted with stout camps and -frequent, the eye-sore and terror of the plain: hence you see Martinsal -camp and many more. - -[Sidenote: Ro. _road to_ +Bath. via Badonica.+] - -[Sidenote: +Oldbury.+ Ro. _camp_.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XLII.] - -Having recited these matters as preliminary, I shall begin my journey -from Marlborough, the Roman _Cunetio_. I forbear speaking of the -infinite number of Celtic monuments I have found in this country, -designing them for a particular treatise, to be honoured with your -lordship’s illustrious name; and from Marlborough pursue the Roman -road, which we have before traced from Newbury hither, and lately -discovered its whole progress toward the Bath, which for distinction -sake we may call _Via Badonica_: its course is east and west: it goes -hence all along the north side of the Kennet river, between it and the -high grounds; and is the present road, but highly wants a Roman hand to -repair it. When we have rode about a mile, over-against Clatford, at -a flexure of the river, we meet with several very great stones, about -a dozen in number, which probably was a Celtic temple, and stood in a -circle: this form in a great measure they still preserve. I guess the -Romans buried them in the ground under their road, because directly in -its passage: the materials throughout have since been worn away, or -sunk into the ground, being in this place meadow, and so has restored -their huge bulk to day-light. Hence it proceeds directly up to the -famous Overton hill, where I first discovered its ridge, when surveying -the beautiful circle of stones there, belonging to the majestic temple -of the old Britons at Abury: this ridge is a little to the north -of the present road, somewhat higher up the hill; it points directly -east and west, one end to Marlborough, the other to Silbury hill: and -this shows a defect in our maps, which place Abury too much to the -south: it is perfect for some space over the down; but upon descending -the hill westward, they have ploughed it up, and found several Roman -coins near it, some of which I have by me.[128] At the bottom, by the -corner of the hedge, it meets again the common road near the White-hart -ale-house; and so they go together above West Kennet to Silbury-hill: -this was the post and coach road to the Bath, till, for want of -reparation, they were forced to find a new one, more northward upon -the downs, and farther about, through the town of Abury: when on the -south side of Silbury hill, it goes very strait and full west through -the corn-fields on the south of Bekhamton, where it is sufficiently -known by the name of the French way; for what reason I cannot imagine. -They have of late endeavoured to exclude travellers going upon it, -by inclosing it at both ends with ditches; but the badness of the -lower road has defeated their purpose, and made people still assert -the public right. Beyond Bekhamton it again enters the downs, and -marches up the hill in a very plain ridge, and beautiful to behold; -the pits and cavities whence the earth was taken, on both sides, being -conspicuous all the way: besides, the Romans have defaced a druid’s -barrow, and another Celtic one near, which saved them some labour: a -proof they were there before the Roman road; but this is not a proper -place to enlarge upon it. When it has gained the summit of the hill, it -leaves Oldbury castle a little to the north: this is a great and strong -Roman camp on the north-west point of the hill, overlooking Calne: the -precipice on those two sides is altogether inaccessible, falling down -in narrow cavities or ribs, as it were the great roots of a tree, with -an odd and tremendous aspect; and that way there was need but of very -slender work for its security: but on the other sides it is double -ditched, having but one entrance to the east, and that fortified with a -return of the outer ditch and inner rampire, very artificially: there -is a ditch likewise across the middle, as if it had been inlarged with -an additional intake westward: it is in the main of a squarish form, -and has a very fine prospect. On the northern limit, in the highest -part, seems to have been a _prætorium_. On this hill, which is wholly -a chalky down, with a most delicate turf (and softer to walk upon -than a Turky carpet) about a foot or two under the superficial earth, -they dig great quantities of flints to mend the highways withal: one -would imagine they had been spewed out of the hardening chalk at the -creation, as extraneous bodies, though of greater specific gravity than -itself. - -[Illustration: 42 Oldbury Castle _11 Iuly. 1723_. - - _Stukeley del:_] - -[Sidenote: +Wansdike.+] - -Return we to the Roman road, which proceeds across another valley, and -so towards Runway hill, the highest in all these parts. This was famous -for a battle in the late civil wars; and they oft find the bullets, -when digging for the pebbles as afore mentioned; and below the hill -they plough up the bones of the slain: but much more is Runway eminent -for two mighty works of antiquity, this Roman way, and Wansdike. The -most lovely prospect here will tempt even a hasty traveller to cast -his eyes about him, and see all the country far beyond the Bath, -and so proportionably quite around. I am not doubtful that it takes -its name from the Roman way, which here has an unusual and the most -curious appearance of any I have seen. I took pleasure in examining -the particularity of it more than once; and it is a masterstroke of -skill to conduct it down the north side of this long and steep hill -(as I have so often remarked to be the condition of northern heights) -to render it easy, or even practicable. When from the top of this hill -you look towards Marlborough, which is full east, you may discern that -the road curves a little northward, not discernible but in the whole: -the reason is to be attributed to the river Kennet, thrusting it out -somewhat that way; otherwise the true line should have lain a little -more to the south of Silbury. To the right you see Wansdike, creeping -all along from south of Marlborough (about two mile) upon the northern -edge of the great ridge of hills, parting North and South Wiltshire, -till it descends St. Ann’s hill; and makes several right angles to -humour the edges of the other hills: the _vallum_ is always on the -south side, and the higher ground behind it: then it mounts up to the -highest _apex_ of Runway hill. But the method of the Roman road is -this: it goes along the northern side of this hill, preserving itself -upon the level, being cut like a terrace-walk, with a parapet before -it next the precipice; and that winding in and out, as the curvatures -of the hill require: it passes just by Calston lime-kiln, and is -defaced by it; for the workmen make no scruple to dig through it for -their materials, and this practice has been so old as to denominate -the town lying beneath. Soon after, it meets with the Wansdike, -descending the hill just by the gibbet: here it enters full into it, -and very dexterously makes use of it, all along to the bottom, on a -very convenient shelf, or spurn of the hill: at the place of union is -a flexure of the Wansdike, so that the Roman road coincides with it -directly; and in order to raise it from a ditch into a road, the Roman -workmen have thrown in most part of the rampire, still preserving it as -a terrace to prevent the danger, and the terror of the descent on one -side. - -I shall mention, upon another occasion, some other observations I -have made long since, that overthrow the notion of those that imagine -Wansdike was cast up by the Saxons, as a limit of the West Saxon and -Mercian kingdoms, or that its name is derived from their god _Woden_: -but here we have a most incontestable proof that it was in being -before the Roman times; and its very name shows it, signifying, in -the old British language, the division dike, _guaban_, _distinctio_, -_separatio_: it is indeed the work of the _Belgæ_, their fourth and -last boundary. These two, the Roman road and Wansdike, go together -after this manner, till they enter the inclosures a little north of -Hedington town below Runway hill. At Calston is a most famous spring, -or cataract of water, coming out of the chalk-hill, and much talked of. -Wansdike was made by the people of the south, to cover their country, -as the mode of it sufficiently testifies, and, as we said before, was -the most northern bounds of the Belgic kingdom. When from the top of -these hills you view the Roman road, towards the west you see it butts -full upon the Bath, or that great chink between Lansdown and the banks -of the river Avon going to Bristol. - -[Sidenote: +Verlucio.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. LXVIII.] - -I had no sooner traced out this road, but I found a fair opportunity -presented of setting the antiquaries right, as to part of the XIVth -journey of Antoninus his Itinerary, in which they have hitherto been -much perplexed. I found no manner of difficulty in settling _Verlucio_ -at Hedington; _Hedda’s_ town, _Heddan_ genitivo. This town is but -small at present, lying at the bottom of this great hill in a rich -marly country. The inhabitants are not surprised when you inquire for -antiquities; they assert it to have been a very old and great city: -infinite quantities of antiquities are found here: handfuls of coins -brought home every time they plough, (madam Whitlock has many) and -the streets and foundations of houses found for a great length, -sufficiently evince it.[129] Reuben Horsal, clerk of Abury, told me, -he had seen a gallon of Roman coin taken up at a time in Hedington -field, in an urn covered with a stone. I suppose its original name -was _Verolucio_, as _Verolanium_, &c. and then it signifies, in -the old Celtic, the white habitation, _vrô llug_; _llug_ denoting -splendid, as _Lugdunum_, a white hill; the same as the Greek Λευκος -_albus_: if _lug_ imports pure water, then it must relate to Calston -spring, breaking forth like a cascade: if we take the word _gloyii_, -_limpidus_, it is all one. It must be noted, that both the XIIIth and -XIVth journeys of Antoninus his Itinerary are abominably corrupted, -and want a healing hand as much as any throughout: and being both one -journey by a different route, I shall undertake thus to restore them. - -[Illustration: 68 +Verlvcio+ - - _Prospect of Hedington. 18 July 1723._ - - _Stukeley delin._] - - - ITER XIII. - - _Ab Isca Callevam_ _M. P._ CXXXIX. _sic_ - - _Isca leg._ II. _Aug._ Caerleon - _Burrium_ Usk IX - _Blescium_ Old town XI - _Ariconium_ Kenchester XI - _Glevum colonia_ Glocester XXXV - _Durocorinium_ Cirencester XIV - Cunetio _Marlborough_ XIX - _Spinas_ Newberry XV - Vindoma _Silchester_ X - _Caleva Atrebatum_ Farnham XV. _toto_ CXXXIX. - -In the copies the sum total is set down CIX. miles; when, if you cast -up the particulars, it amounts to no more than XC. so that no less than -nineteen in the original is lost: this shows plainly that some station -is dropped out, and geography itself indispensably demonstrates it. -Mr. Fulk was sensible of some deficiency, by his adding _Gobannium_, -though thereby he hit not the white: in truth, both stations and -numbers are wanting; for it is notorious that the distance between -_Ariconium_ and _Glevum_, places sufficiently known, and about which -we have no contest, is much too little, when set down only XV. mile; -and XX. must unavoidably be added. Though I am as cautious as any man -living in laying hand upon these venerable remains, and altering them; -yet, where nature and reason absolutely require it, I have not the -least fear in adding two stations, which are quite slipped out from -the original: between Cirencester and Newberry it is evident _Cunetio_ -must be interposed, or the distance heightened to twice as much: the -truth is, one station is intermitted, _Cunetio_: and the like between -_Spinas_ and _Calleva_; for _Vindoma_, or Silchester, must be added, -beyond which is our _Calleva_, or Farnham; all in a strait line, and -upon a Roman road from _Aricomum_. Cast up the whole account, it comes -to CXXXIX. instead of CIX. then all the difficulties that have hitherto -obscured this journey, vanish: they that compare William Harrison’s -first copy with the others of this journey, will not be surprised at -the effects of negligent transcribers, when, out of seven names in -other books, he has missed two; and so frequently in other journeys. -In the next place I offer this as the true reading of the fourteenth -journey of Antoninus. - - - ITER XIIII. - - _Alio itinere ab Isca Callevam_ _M. P._ CIII. _sic_ - - _Isca leg._ II. _Aug._ Caerleon - _Venta silurum_ Caerguent IX - _Trajectus_ Old-bury IX - _Abone_ Henbury IX - _Aquæ solis_ Bath VI - _Verlucio_ Hedington XX - _Cunetio_ Malboro X - _Spinas_ Newberry XV - Vindoma _Silchester_ X. - _Calleva Atrebatum_ Farnham XV _toto_ CIII. - -This journey leads us to _Calleva_ another way. Mr. Gale has observed -_Trajectus_ and _Abone_ transposed. The sum total here likewise is -invariably in all copies CIII. when the particulars amount but to -ninety-eight; whence we likewise infer a station is dropped out, as -before, viz. Silchester, with the number X. annexed. Now it happens -that number was not lost, though the station was; but was erroneously -placed to Marlborough, being XX. instead of X. seeing the distance -between the Bath and Marlborough is notoriously too much. Setting then -X. mile to _Cunetio_, its real distance from our _Verlucio_, Hedington; -it remains further to correct the number annexed to _Verlucio_, XX. -for XV. the letter X being easily corrupted into an V. then we answer -the distances on all hands, having a Roman road accompanying us, and -complete the sum total set at top precisely CIII. and restore the whole -to its ancient purity. When we reflect a little, that, take the matter -how we will any other way, the difficulties are unsurmountable, I am -thoroughly satisfied in these corrections. - -Much rusty old iron is dug up at the quarries by Brunham, probably of -the Romans: it is a mile off Hedington. - -Upon the hedge of the hill which overlooks Hedington, as it bends a -little southward, is another pretty little Roman camp, in an angle of -the hill, of a square form, and as if not finished, or made for but a -small time of abode upon an expedition; for neither _vallum_ nor ditch -of any great strength: it is situate on a very convenient promontory, -or rather _peninsula_ of high ground, the steepness whereof is a guard -to three sides of it; the other has the slender _vallum_ made chiefly -of the surface of the earth thrown up a little. From the edge of these -hills is an indefinite prospect over the country of the _Dobuni_, the -_Belgæ_, and _Durotriges_: the descent to it, as being on the west side -of the hill, is very steep. I think this place is called Bagdon hill. - -[Sidenote: +Punctuobice.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. LXIX.] - -Under it, to the left, is the Devises: this I take to be the -_Punctuobice_ of Ravennas, which he mentions by parcels thus: -_Leucomagus_, Bedwin, (_Cimetzone_ for) _Cunetione_ in the ablative -case, Marlborough; _Punctuobice_, the Devises: then he begins a new -period of cities in Wales, _Venta Silurum_, &c. I suppose here is a -remnant of the former part of the word _Punctuobice_ in Poulsholt, a -little village hard by; Potern another, Potern-wood, and the name of -the hundred Potern, taken, in the first times of their division, from -such a corrupt appellation of this place: the last syllable _bice_ -subsists in the present name Devises, vulgarly _vies_. This town is -excellently situated, about two miles from the bottom of the hills, -which keep off the eastern winds, and in a rich soil.[130] Under -the hill at Runway is an excellent spring, which the inhabitants have -not yet found means to convey thither, though it runs but a little -way off the town, where they want water. It is a very large old town, -consisting chiefly of two long parallel streets; the houses for the -most part of timber, but of a very good model: they value themselves -for one of the best weekly markets in England, and for being tenants -to the king. It was inclosed by the Romans with a _vallum_ and ditch, -which I presently found out: they have made a road of the ditch in -most parts round the town; but in several places both that and the -_vallum_ are visible enough, and it took in the castle: this castle -was Roman originally, finely chosen upon a natural fortification, -but in after-times made in a manner impregnable by Roger a bishop of -Salisbury; though now it is ignobly mangled, and every day destroyed by -people that care not to leave a wall standing, though for a fence to -their garden. Here are two churches; the choir of St. Mary’s, of a very -old model; the steeple, choir, and both wings of St. John’s, the same, -to which parcels have since been tacked all round, and new wide windows -put in with pointed arches, instead of the ancient narrow semi-circular -ones. Just out of town is a pretty plain, called the Green, with -another handsome church and steeple, suburbs to the old town. Here -William Cadby, a gardener, dug up his collection of gods, which he -carried about for a show: they were found in a garden, in a cavity -inclosed with Roman brick: the _Venus_ is of an excellent design; and -the Vestal Virgin, as they call it, a fragment of Corinthian brass; -it is of very curious drapery: _Vulcan_ is as lame as if made at a -forge: the rest equal in designing with the _lares_ of the _Ostiaques_, -and not at all mended in the plate published by Dr. Musgrave: he had -several coins found thereabouts, and a brass Roman key which my lord -Winchelsea bought. Roman antiquities are found here every day. My lord -Winchelsea has one brass _Probus_; on the reverse, +Victoria Germ.+ -with a trophy: and a great fund of such antiquities is to be met with -all around the country. At Calne incredible numbers of Roman coin dug -up; so at Studley, in the way to Bath, once a seat of the Saxon kings: -I have seen and bought some of these: my lord Winchelsea has many found -there. - -[Illustration: 69 +Pvnctvobice.+ - _July 17. 1723._] - -From hence towards Trubridge is Steeple-Aston, upon the bottom of the -downs of Salisbury plain: it is a most excellent church and tower of -stone, and had a famous spire of lead upon it, but twice thrown down by -thunder and tempest, which absolutely discouraged the inhabitants from -setting it up again. - -Return we to the Roman Bath road, which we left at Hedington; whence -it goes much as the common road to Bath, and all along upon the south -division of Chipenham hundred: I could discern its bank now and then -upon the road, though much worn away and defaced in defect of necessary -repairs: it passes the Avon at Lacock, where has been a great religious -house, so by a chapel south of Haselbury: then it descends a hill for -two miles together, till it meets, over-against Bathford, the Foss-way, -which comes in a strait line hither through Cirencester, from _Benonis_ -or High-cross in Warwickshire, where I left it last year: then our -road goes round the crook of the river by Walcot to the Bath. This -turn it is that swells the distance between Bath and _Verlucio_ to XX. -Roman miles, as we before corrected it. The Wansdike runs still not -far off this road, but a little north of it through Spy park; so by -Ditchbridge, which has its name from it; then to the Shire stones, at -the division between Gloucestershire, Wilts, and Somerset. As to the -nature of the soil, when we have left the chalky downs at Hedington, -it is intirely sand to the river Avon, whence the name of Sandy lanes: -from thence to the Bath it is rocky. There is a vast descent from the -Downs quite to Bath, and every great ridge is very steep westward. - -[Sidenote: +Aquæ Solis.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. LXX. LXXI.] - -The Bath is a place so celebrated, and so well known, that I need say -but little upon it; nor can much be expected from the small time I -rested here: its history and antiquities have been copiously handled -by several gentlemen of our own faculty. It is indeed a spot of ground -which we Britons may esteem as a particular boon of Nature: it lies -in a great valley surrounded with an amphitheatrical view of hills; -and its situation on the west side of the island does not a little -contribute to its pleasures; for such is ever less subject to violent -and enormous alterations of the air by winds and tempest, heat and -cold: but the Romans were prudently induced to make a station here, by -the admirable hot springs, so wonderful in themselves, and so justly -regarded. The walls round the city are for the most part intire, and -perhaps the old Roman work, except the upper part, which seems repaired -with the ruins of Roman buildings; for the lewis holes are still left -in many of the stones, and, to the shame of the repairers, many Roman -inscriptions: some sawn across, to fit the size of the place, are -still to be seen, some with the letters towards the city, others on -the outside: most of those mentioned in Mr. Camden and other authors -are still left; but the legend more obscure. The level of the city -is risen to the top of the first walls, through the negligence of -the magistracy, in this and all other great towns, who suffer idle -servants to throw all manner of dirt and ashes into the streets: these -walls inclose but a small compass, of a pentagonal form: four gates -on four sides, and a postern on the other: from the south-west angle -has been an additional wall and ditch carried out to the river; by -which short work the approach of an enemy on two sides is cut off, -unless they pass the river. The small compass of the city has made -the inhabitants croud up the streets to an unseemly and inconvenient -narrowness: it is handsomely built, mostly of new stone, which is very -white and good; a disgrace to the architects they have there. The -cathedral is a beautiful pile, though small; the roof of stone well -wrought; much imagery in front, but of a sorry taste. Here they suppose -(with probability) stood the Roman temple of Minerva, patroness of the -Baths.[131] Before it was a handsome square _area_, but lately deformed -with houses encroaching: on the south side are the justly-renowned hot -springs, collected into a square _area_ called the King’s Bath. The -corporation has lately erected a pretty handsome building before it, -called the Drinking-room, for the company to meet in that drink the -waters drawn hither by a marble pump from the bottom of the springs, -where it is near boiling hot. This water is admirably grateful to the -stomach, striking the roof of the mouth with a fine sulphureous and -steely _gas_, like that of the German Spa or Pyrmont: though you drink -off a large pint glass, yet it is so far from creating a heaviness, or -_nausea_, that you find yourself brisker immediately, by its agreeable -sensation on the membranes of the stomach: at first it operates -by stool, and especially urine: it is of most sovereign virtue to -strengthen the bowels, to restore their lost tone through intemperance -or inactivity, and renews the vital fire by its adventitious heat and -congenial principles. Hither let the hypochondriac student repair, and -drink at the Muses’ spring: no doubt the advantages obtained here in -abdominal obstructions must be very great. The King’s Bath is an oblong -square; the walls full of niches, perhaps the Roman work: there are -twelve on the north side, eight on the east and west; about four larger -arches on the south: at every corner are the steps to descend into -it, and a parapet or balustrade with a walk round it: in the middle -is set an aukward timber-work, like a cross, adorned with crutches, -the trophies of its wonderful cures: around that emerge the boiling -springs very plentifully: upon the south wall is the fanciful image of -king Bladud, with a silly account of his finding out these springs, -more reasonably attributed to the Romans: they no doubt separated them -first from common springs, and fenced them in with an eternal wall. -The people have a notion, and probable enough, of subterraneal canals -of their making, to carry off the other waters, lest they should mix -and spoil the heat of these. It is remarkable that at the cleansing of -the springs, when they set down a new pump, they constantly find great -quantities of hazle-nuts, as in many other places among subterraneous -timber. These I doubt not to be the remains of the famous and universal -deluge, which the Hebrew historian tells us was in autumn, Providence -by that means securing the revival of the vegetable world. In this bath -the people stand up to the chin, men and women, and stew, as we may -properly call it; for the most part, in the way of gallantry, and as -at a collation. I should judge the method used at Buxton preferable, -where the sexes go in separately and privately, where they have liberty -to swim about and stir the limbs, and exercise the lungs; whence the -whole body will better receive the full force and benefit of the -warmth: and this will more effectually put the humours in motion, -that should be exterminated at the opened pores: this exercise of the -solids sets the glands to work, and every secretion is promoted. Many -are the diseases and calamities which here find a happy period, when -judiciously applied, which, as a traveller, I need not discourse upon. -This brings innumerable people to the salutiferous streams; especially -in the summer time, which likewise seems an error owing to custom and -fashion; for I doubt not they are equally, if not more beneficial, both -internally and externally, in winter than summer. The carrying the -water to distant places to drink, seems only a splendid fallacy. - -[Illustration: 70 +Aqvæ Solis+ - - _Iuly 1723_ - - A _The Kings Bath_ - B _The Queens Bath_ - C _The Cross Bath_ - D _The Hot Bath_ - E _Gascoins Tower_ - F _Sᵗ. Catherines Hospital_ - G _Sᵗ. Iohns Hospital_ - H _Bridewell_ - I _The Play House_ - K _Sᵗ. Marys_ - L _The Market House_ - M _Sᵗ. Peters Cathedral_ - N _Sᵗ. Iames’s_ - O _The Abby Gate_ - P _Sᵗ. Michaels_ - Q _Sᵗ. Michaels broadstr._ - - _Insignia Urbis_ _Insignia ecclesiæ_ - - _Stukeley delin._ _Parker Sculpᵗ._] - -[Illustration: 71 Aquæ Solis Iuly 21. 1723. _From the top of the - Southern hill._ - - Cl. Richardo Mead M.D. _tab. d.d. Wˢ. Stukeley_. _Stukeley del._] - -I observe the whole country hereabouts is a rock of good lime-stone, -which is the _minera_ of the water’s heat and virtue: but how that -comes to be calcined; by what refined chymistry of Nature sulphur and -steel are mixed with it; by what means it acquires and conserves with -so much constancy this equable and mighty _focus_, together with the -reason of fountains in general; I profess, in my sentiments, is one of -the great _arcana_ in philosophy hitherto inscrutable. - -Behind the southern wall of the King’s Bath is a lesser square, called -the Queen’s Bath, with a tabernacle of four pillars in the midst: this -is of more temperate warmth, as deriving its water at second-hand from -the other. There are likewise pumps and pumping-rooms, for pouring hot -streams on any part of the body; which in many cases is very useful, to -dissolve sizy concretions about the joints and the like, and recovers -the natural elasticity in the relaxed fibres of the solids. The _area_ -before this bath and front of the cathedral, is in the centre of the -_pentagon_, upon which the city is formed. Why the Romans made it of -this unusual figure, I cannot tell: nothing appears from the manner -of the ground and situation; but I observe the same of Aix in France. -One would be apt to suspect they had a regard to the sacred symbol and -mystical character of medicine, which in ancient times was thought of -no inconsiderable virtue: this is a pentagonal figure, formed from a -triple triangle, called by the name of _Hygeia_, because to be resolved -into the Greek letters that compose the word. The Pythagoreans used it -among their disciples as a mystical symbol, denoting health; and the -cabalistic Jews and Arabians had the same fancy: it is the _pentalpha_, -or _pentagrammon_, among the Egyptians; the mark of prosperity. -Antiochus Soter, going to fight against the Galatians, was advised -in a dream to bear this sign upon his banner; whence he obtained a -signal victory. This would make one believe a physician had a hand -in projecting this city. Dr. Musgrave thinks it was Scribonius, who -accompanied Claudius hither. - -In the south-west part of the town are two other baths, not to be -disregarded: for in any other place who would not purchase them at -the greatest price? The Hot bath is a small parallelogram, not much -inferior in heat to the King’s bath: it has a stone tabernacle of four -pillars in the middle. The Cross bath, near it, is triangular, and had -a cross in the middle; which now is a very handsome work, in marble, -of three Corinthian pillars, erected by the lord Milford, in memory -of king James the Second’s queen conceiving, as it is said, after the -use thereof. Hard by is an hospital built and endowed by a bishop of -this see. The water in these two places rises near to the level of the -streets, because I suppose in this part of the town the earth is not -so much heightened. On the south side of the cathedral are some parts -of the abbey left, and the gate-house belonging to it. Not long ago, -by money contributed, they made a cold bath, at a spring beyond the -bridge, that nothing of this sort might be wanting for the benefit of -the infirm. - -[Sidenote: TAB. XLIX.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XLI. 2d Vol.] - -Since Mr. Camden’s time two inscriptions have been set in the eastern -wall of the cathedral, fronting the walks: but this is as imprudently -done as those in the city-walls; for, besides the rain and weather, -they are exposed to the boys, who throw stones at them: one is that of -Julius Vitalis, published by Dr. Musgrave; the other, which he calls a -basso relievo of Geta, seems to have been the top of a monumental stone -over some common horseman. Harrison’s house, they say, is built against -some basso’s and inscriptions. In the 49th plate I have given the whole -stone and inscription, now in the wall near the north gate. - -At Walcot has been a camp, and many Roman antiquities are frequently -found. Lord Winchelsea has an urn, a _patera_, and other things, found -in a stone coffin, wherein was a child’s body, half a mile off the Bath. - -Riding upon Lansdown, I saw the monument, lately erected by lord -Lansdown, in memory of his grandfather Bevil Granvile, slain here in -a battle with the parliament forces. Hence, it being a north-west -precipice, is a prospect of Bristol, the Severn, &c. This road seems -to be the Ricning-street, called Langridge, going to the passage over -the Severn, the ancient _Trajectus_ and so along the east side of the -Severn, and into Yorkshire. The ground hereabouts is very red, covering -a solid rock of stone, which lies in thin layers parallel to the -horizon, with as much exactness as if hewn for courses in a wall: this -stone is full of little shells; and of this sort is the monument of -Julius Vitalis: between the _strata_ are crystallizations or fluors of -petrifying juices: all the stone in this country abounds with curious -fossils. As you walk along a new paved road, it is very common to -find very great _cornua ammonis_, two foot diameter, laid in among the -rest; and, though formed with such admirable curiosity, yet the country -people walk carelessly over them, as I observed, whilst a horse will -startle at so unusual an appearance: the first I saw in the Foss road, -going up the hill south of Bath, I took for the image of the Sun, which -I remembered to have seen prints of, as it was in _basso relievo_ in -the city-walls, with his hair flowing round like rays; and this was -well enough represented in a stone that had been worn a little: but -I was soon undeceived, when I found great numbers of the same sort -further on.[132] - -[Illustration: 49 +Roman Inscriptions+ - - _Honorabili Johĩ Clerke Baroni Scaccar. in Scotia tab. d.d. Wˢ. - Stukeley._ - - _Stukeley f.a.f 1723_] - -[Illustration: 41·2ᵈ. _At Bathe._ - - _Stukeley delin._ _I. Harris fecit._] - -[Sidenote: _The_ +Weddings+. Br. _Temple_.] - -[Sidenote: +Marsbury+ _field_.] - -[Sidenote: +Bowditch+ _camp_.] - -From the Bath I went to visit the famous Celtic temple called the -Weddings, in company with John Strachey, esq; who lives near there, -a person well versed in natural history and antiquities, and fellow -of the Royal Society. I shall describe this memorable curiosity upon -another occasion. In the way hither, about Twyfordton, I found a fallow -field with but little quantity of earth upon the rock: this was as -full of fossil shells as possible, let into a softish stone, which had -preserved their very natural colour of blue and white as perfectly as -at first. Near Stanton Drue, in a _trivium_, is an old elm-tree made -infamous for the bloody trophies of judge Jeffrys’s barbarity, in the -duke of Monmouth’s rebellion; for all its broad-spreading arms were -covered over with heads and limbs of the unfortunate countrymen. In Chu -parish is Bowditch, a large camp on a hill trebly fortified, whence you -may behold the isles of Flatholm and Steepholm in the sea. I suppose -the word means the circular form of the place. Here is a petrifying -spring. This country abounds with coal-pits: the slates that lie upon -it, and have not received their due quantity of sulphur, so as to make -perfect coal, are most curiously marked with impressions of plants, -capillary ones especially, and more particularly those of fern; all -which grew in exceeding plenty in this country, and gave their forms -to this soft matter at the Deluge. This is indeed a rock, and full -of springs, very bad road for travelling, short and steep valleys, -narrow lanes, intricate, dark and hard: so no wonder _harts-tongue_, -_liver-wort_, _maiden-hair_, _navel-wort_, and the like moist plants, -thrive here. The ground in these valleys is very rich: much wood -grows upon it; though in some roads you ride upon the superfice of a -rock lying flat in great slabs, as if artificially placed with good -joints. Many wood-plants grow about here, such as _wood-sorrel_, -_strawberries_, _tutsan_ or _park-leaves_, &c. The neatness of the -houses even of the poorer sort of people is remarkable, being generally -whited over, and with pretty little gardens, which in pure and unartful -nature is a necessary adjunct in the happiness of life. - -[Sidenote: _Camps._] - -There is a camp overlooks Stanton Drue, called Mizknoll; another at -Elm, two miles west from Frome: in 1691 a pot of Roman coin found -there, most of Constantine junior: it is upon the end of a precipice, -and severed from the rest of the hill by a _vallum_ on one side only: -south of it runs a rivulet. Masbury castle upon Mendip hills, half a -mile from the Foss, a mile north of Shipton-Mallet, of a round form, -150 paces diameter: the two entrances opposite: the environing ditch on -one end laps over with a semi-lunar turn, rendering the passage to it -oblique. Hereabouts are many camps, whose ditches are hewn out of the -solid rock: that above Bristol has four trenches, as many _vallums_, -and but one entrance: one would think it impregnable to any thing but -hunger. A camp cut out of the rock at Churchill with a single trench. -There is a cave equal to that of Ochey-hole at Dolebury. These are from -information of Mr. Strachey. - -In this county of Somersetshire are three remarkable hills, that make -an exact triangle twelve mile each side, much talked of by the country -people; Camalet castle, Glassenbury torr, and Montacute. They have a -notion that king Arthur obtained from some saint, that no serpent or -venomous creature should ever be found in this compass, though frequent -all around it. I shall rehearse to your lordship what occurred to me -at the places. All this country, though to the eye very pleasant with -woods and prospects yet is very disagreeable to travel, for the reasons -I just mentioned. - -[Sidenote: +Colomeæ.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XLIII.] - -Camalet is a noted place, situate on the highest ground in this county, -on the edge of Dorsetshire. The country people are ignorant of this -name, which has generally obtained among the learned: they call it -Cadbury castle, from the village of North-Cadbury, in which it is: this -caution is useful to those that go to enquire for it. Hereabouts rise -the rivers of Somersetshire, which run into the Severn sea westward; -and that in Dorset, which goes eastward, through Sturminster, into the -southern ocean. It is a noble fortification of the Romans, placed on -the north end of a ridge of hills separated from the rest by nature; -and for the most part solid rock, very steep and high: there are three -or four ditches quite round, sometimes more: the _area_ within is -twenty acres at least, rising in the middle: its figure is squarish, -but conforms to the shape of the hill. There is a higher angle of -ground within, ditched about, where they say was king Arthur’s palace: -it was probably the _prætorium_ and might be king Arthur’s too. who -lived in this place: the country people refer all stories to him. The -whole has been ploughed over since the memory of man, and much stone -has been taken from the surface, which has altered it. The rampart -is large and high, made chiefly of great stones covered with earth, -and perhaps, in some parts where it was necessary, laid with mortar: -here is only one entrance from the east. It is not unlikely there -were buildings erected in the later British times, being of so great -strength, and a perfect watch-tower, surveying the country round to an -incredible distance. The prospect is woody, and very pleasant; here and -there little hills, lofty and steep, peeping up with their naked heads: -you reach all the Mendip hills and Black-down in Devonshire. In this -camp they find many pebble-stones exactly round, half a peck at a time; -whereas there are none such in the country: they suppose them stones -to sling withal, fetched from the sea, or perhaps shot in cross-bows. -Roman coin in great plenty has been found here, and all the country -round: I saw vast numbers of Antoninus and Faustina, about that time -and after. The entrance here is guarded with six or seven ditches: on -the north side, in the fourth ditch, is a never-failing spring, called -King Arthur’s well: over it they have dug up square stones, door-jambs -with hinges, and say there are subterraneous vaults thereabouts. -Selden, in his notes on _Polyolbion_, writes it was full of ruins and -reliques of old buildings. At top they told me many pavements, and -arches have been dug up, hand-grindstones, and other domestic or camp -utensils. They say there is a road across the fields, that bears very -rank corn, called King Arthur’s Hunting-causeway. - -[Sidenote: +Cadbury.+] - -The church and tower of Cadbury is neat and small, built of stone. -In this place they call walnuts _Welsh-nuts_. To the southward, on -the opposite hill, corpses have been dug up: there was lately an -urn full of Roman money found at Wincaunton. A little above Sutton, -toward Beacon-Ash, in inclosing ground, half a peck of the same coin -was found; I saw some of Tetricus. Roman _pateras_, a knife, and -other antiquities, taken up thereabouts, sent to madam Thyns, now in -lord Winchelsea’s custody. Many are the British stories told of -Camalet, of the knights of king Arthur’s round table, of the solemn -justings and tournaments there, &c. It seems, when the castle for its -security was turned into a city, this was the _Colomeæ_ of Ravennas, -(as Mr. Baxter has corrected it) in the later times of the Romans; -unless Quincamel, not far off, can better put in its claim, to which -this might be the garrison. At Long-Leat, in my lord Weymouth’s -library, is a piece of lead weighing fifty pound, one foot nine inches -long, two inches thick, three and an half broad, found in the lord -Fitzharding’s grounds near Bruton in Somersetshire, and was discovered -by digging a hole to set a gate-post in: upon it this memorable -inscription, which I suppose was some trophy; communicated by lord -Winchelsea. - -[Illustration: 43 _Prospect From Sᵗ. Roc’s hill Sept. 15. 1723._ - - _Prospect of Camalet Castle._ _15. Aug. 1723._ - - _Stukeley Del._] - -[Illustration: 33 _Ichnography of the Abby of Glasenbury. 17. Aug. - 1723._ - -_I. Vᵈʳ. Gucht Scul._ _Stukeley delin_] - - ┌───────────────────────┐ - │ IMP DVOR AVG ANTONINI │ - │ ET VERI ARMENIACORVM. │ - └───────────────────────┘ - -Hence let us go, as in pilgrimage, to the famous Glassenbury; for it is -a very rough and disagreeable road, over rocks and the heads of rivers: -but that is much alleviated by the many natural curiosities such places -afford: several times I saw _gilded ivy_ grow in the hedges, as yellow -as gold; great plenty of _viorna_, _purging-thorn_, _prim-print_, and -the banks every where over-grown with _fox-gloves_. Kyneton village, -for half a mile together, is paved naturally with one smooth broad -rock, the whole breadth of the road; so that it looks like ice. Great -quarries of stone hereabouts, of the slab kind: all the uppermost -layers are incredibly full of sea-shells, and would make admirable -pannels to wainscot a _virtuoso’s_ summer-house, grotto, or the like, -and of any dimensions; not inferior, in true value, to those brought -from Italy, but too cheap. I frequently took notice that the course of -the vein of the stone quarry runs north-east and south-west. - -[Sidenote: +Glasenbury Torr+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XXXVII.] - -Crossing the Foss road at Lyteford you enter upon a flat moorish -country, full of artificial cuts and drains, like the levels in -Lincolnshire. Not far before I came to Glassenbury, I observed a great -bank, crossing the road, which seemed to be a Roman road. I guess there -was a Roman road went from Bristol, through Axbridge, Bridgewater, -Taunton, parallel to the Foss, and nearer the ocean. I have been told, -between the two last places it is very fair, and paved with stone. With -much labour I climbed to the top of the Torr, hanging over the town of -Glassenbury. This hill, with that called Werial hill, is a long rib of -elevated ground in the midst of this vast level or isle of Avalon. I -observed, in its several breaks or gradations, a steepness westward. -Here upon the narrow crest of the Torr, which is much the highest, the -abbots built a church to St. Michael, of good square stone: the tower -is left, though ruinous; and it is an excellent sea-mark: it probably -cost more to carry the stone up to this _apex_, than to erect the -building. There is a spring half way up it. It is certainly higher than -any ground within ten miles of the place. They say here is a passage -hence under ground to the abbey. - -[Sidenote: +Glasenbury.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XXXIII.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XXXVII.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XXXIV.] - -This great monastery in superstitious times held the first place for -fame and sanctity. Here the christian doctrine first found admittance -in Britain, or early tradition has amused us: it is not unlikely the -fact may be true, though the persons and circumstances invented: -however, it is not to be doubted but king Ina built their church; as -one of the most ancient, so the most wealthy and magnificent, loaded -with revenues by the Saxon kings, and perhaps the British before -them. Truly the abbot lived in no less state than the royal donors: no -wonder, when his revenue was equivalent to 40,000l. per ann. he could -from the Torr see a vast tract of this rich land his own demesnes, -and seven parks well stored with deer belonging to the monastery. -It is walled round and embattled like a town, a mile in compass: as -yet there are magnificent ruins; but within a _lustrum_ of years, a -presbyterian tenant has made more barbarous havock there, than has -been since the Dissolution; for every week a pillar, a buttress, a -window-jamb, or an angle of fine hewn stone, is sold to the best -bidder: whilst I was there they were excoriating St. Joseph’s chapel -for that purpose, and the squared stones were laid up by lots in the -abbot’s kitchen: the rest goes to paving yards and stalls for cattle, -or the highway. I observed frequent instances of the townsmen being -generally afraid to make such purchase, as thinking an unlucky fate -attends the family where these materials are used; and they told me -many stories and particular instances of it: others, that are but half -religious, will venture to build stables and out-houses therewith, but -by no means any part of the dwelling-house. The abbot’s lodging was a -fine stone building, but could not content the tenant just mentioned, -who pulled it down two or three years ago, and built a new house out of -it; aukwardly setting up the arms and cognisances of the great Saxon -kings and princes, founders, and of the abbots, over his own doors and -windows: my friend Mr. Strachey had taken a drawing of it very luckily -just before, which I have put in its proper place, plate 37. Nothing -is reserved intire but the kitchen, a judicious piece of architecture: -it is formed from an octagon included in a square; four fire-places -fill the four angles, having chimneys over them: in the flat part of -the roof, between these, rises the arched octagonal pyramid, crowned -with a double lantern, one within another: there are eight curved ribs -within, which support this vault, and eight funnels for letting out -the steam through windows; within which, in a lesser pyramid, hung the -bell to call the poor people to the adjacent almery, whose ruins are -on the north side of the kitchen: the stones of the pyramid are all -cut slaunting with the same bevil to throw off the rain. They have a -report in the town, that king Henry VIII. quarrelling with the abbot, -threatened to fire his kitchen: to which he returned answer, That he -would build such a one as all the timber in his forest should not burn. - -[Sidenote: TAB. XXXVI.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XXXV.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XXXVII.] - -The church was large and magnificent: the walls of the choir are -standing, twenty-five fathom long, twelve broad: there is one jamb -at the east end of the high altar left: hereabouts were buried king -Edgar, and many of the Saxon kings, whose noble ashes ought to have -protected the whole: two pillars of the great middle tower are left -next the choir: on the north side is St. Mary’s chapel, as they told -me; the roof beat down by violence, and a sorry wooden one in its -place, thatched with stubble to make it serve as a stable: the manger -lies upon the altar and niche where they put the holy water. St. -Edgar’s chapel is opposite to it; not much left of it, beside the -foundations: the north and south transepts are quite demolished. They -say king Arthur was buried under the great tower. A small part of the -south side wall of the body of the church remains, which made one side -of the cloysters; and the arch at the west end, leading to the chapel -of Joseph of Arimathea, the patron and asserted founder of the whole. -This they say was the first christian church in Britain. The present -work is about the third building upon the same spot: it is forty-four -paces long, thirty-six wide without: it is so intire, that we could -well enough draw the whole structure, as in plate 35. the roof -is chiefly wanting: two little turrets are at the corners of the west -end, and two more at the interval of four windows from thence, which -seem to indicate the space of ground the first chapel was built on: the -rest between it and the church was a sort of anti-chapel. Underneath -was a vault now full of water, the floor of the chapel being beaten -down into it: it was wrought with great stones. Here was a capacious -receptacle of the dead: they have taken up many leaden coffins, and -melted them into cisterns. Hence is the subterraneous arched passage -to the Torr, according to their notion. The roof of the chapel was -finely arched with rib-work of stone: the sides of the walls are full -of small pillars of Sussex marble, as likewise the whole church; which -was a little way of ornamenting in those days: they are mostly beaten -down: between them the walls are painted with pictures of saints, as -still easily seen. All the walls are overgrown with ivy, which is the -only thing here in a flourishing condition; everything else presenting -a most melancholy, though venerable aspect. On the south side the -cloysters was the great hall. The town’s people bought the stone of -the vaults underneath to build a sorry market-house, contributing -to the ruin of the sacred fabric, and to their own: what they durst -not have done singly, they perpetrated as a body, hoping vengeance -would slip between so many: nor did they discern the benefit accruing -to the town from the great concourse of strangers purposely to see -this abbey, which is now the greatest trade of it, as formerly its -only support; for it is in a most miserable decaying condition, as -wholly cut off from the great revenues spent among them. There are -many other foundations of the buildings left in the great _area_, but -in the present hands will soon be rooted up, and the very footsteps -of them effaced, which so many ages had been erecting. Though I am -no encourager of superstitious foppery, yet I think, out of that -vast estate, somewhat might have been left, if only to preserve old -monuments for the benefit of our history. The abbot’s hall I have been -told was curiously wainscoted with oak, and painted with coats of arms -in every pannel. The mortar of these buildings is very good, and great -rocks of the roof of the church lie upon the ground, consisting chiefly -of rubble stone untouched by the fanatical destroyers, who work on the -hewn stone of the outside, till a whole wall falls when undermined a -little. Throughout the town are the tattered remains of doors, windows, -bases, capitals of pillars, &c. brought from the abbey, and put into -every poor cottage. - -[Illustration: 37 _The Prospect of_ Glasenbury Abby. - - A. _Sᵗ. Josephs chappel._ B. _The Abby Church._ C. _Sᵗ. Marys - chappel._ D. _Edgars chappel._ E. _The high Alter._ F. _The - Cloysters._ G. _The Hall._ H. _The Abbots kitchin._ I. _The Abbots - Lodging._ - - _Stukeley del._] - -[Illustration: 34 _The Orthography Section & Groundplot of the Abbot of - Glasenburys Kitchin._ _Aug. 17. 1723._ - - _Celeberrimo Viro Humfredo Wanleio d.d. W. Stukeley._] - -[Illustration: 36 _A Prospect of the Ruins of_ Glasenbury Abby _Aug. - 17. 1723_. - - _Stukeley del_: _E. Kirkall scul_: - - A. _The Abbots Kitchin._ B. _His Lodgings._ C. _Sᵗ. Iosephs - Chappel._ D. _The Town Church._ E. _the Abby Church._ F. _the - Tower._ G. _Sᵗ. Marys Chappel._ H. _Edgars Chappel._ I. _the - Choir._ K. _the Cloysters._ L. _the Hall._ M. _the Monks Lodgings._ - N. _the Almery._] - -[Illustration: 35 _The Inside Section of Sᵗ. Joseph of Arimathea’s - Chapel at Glasenbury._ - - _Tho. Tanner D.D. Sacra Tabula._ - - _G. Vᵈᵉʳ. Gucht. Scul._ _Stukeley delin._] - -In the town are two churches; the upper a handsome fabric, with a fine -tower of good design, adorned with figures in niches: at the east end -of the church-yard is a curious old tomb inscribed with ancient English -letters, but so worn with trampling on, that I could make little out -of it, except the name of the interred Alleyn. The George inn is an -old stone building, called the Abbot’s inn, where chiefly the pilgrims -were lodged that came strolling hither, and idling their time away for -sanctity: stone and timber are liberally bestowed on it: a coat of arms -of the kings of England, supported by a lion and a bull, over the gate, -and many crosses: the bed I lay in was of large timber, with great -embossed gilt pannels, and seemed to have been the abbot’s. - -When I left this place, I passed through a great gate built across -the road under the abbey wall, with a lesser portal by the side of -it; which I suppose was some boundary of the abbey-lands, and part of -their extravagance; for the abbot’s revenues being inconsumable in -their way of life, they prodigally threw it away in building, as one -method of perpetuating their name: another they had which was very -useful, the making great and high causeways, along this moory country, -for facilitating travelling and commerce; the remains of which I saw -here and there, and wished they had been in better repair. I passed by -the side of Werial hill, where grew the famous hawthorn that blossomed -at Christmas; I suppose, an early blooming white-thorn: but that it -so strictly observed Christmas day to an hour, nay a minute, as they -here assert, I believe no more than the vulgar derivation of the hill, -with more of the dregs of monkery. Somerton is an old town, that gives -name to the whole county, once the royal seat of the West-Saxon kings: -the steeple is octangular: probably it was a Roman town. I saw a camp -upon a great copped high hill on the right hand, as I travelled. At -Ilchester town end I fell into the Foss road again. - -[Sidenote: +Ischalis.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. LXXII.] - -This station of the Romans is situate on the south side of the river -Ivel, or Yeovil, the _Velox_ of Ravennas. Pillbridge, a little lower, -seems to retain the name: it is the _Uzella_ of Ptolemy. I perceived -immediately that this place had been originally encompassed with a -wall and ditch, and traced out the manifest _vestigia_ thereof quite -round: it was an oblong square 300 paces in length, 200 in breadth, -standing upon the oblique points of the compass, conform to the -Foss way, which passes through the town exactly from north-east to -south-west: the north-east side of the city lay against the river, -where I saw foundations of the wall here and there, and took up several -Roman bricks in searching for it in the gardens: the ditch on the -north-west side is become a road, called Yard-lane, as going behind -the yards and gardens: then it runs through the friery garden; for the -religious had extended their bounds beyond the city, and turned the -road on the outside: then it goes along the road on the back of Mr. -Lockyer’s garden: it is now visible between the Yeovil road and the -southern angle; then runs through another garden, being for the most -part levelled by the gardener, who showed me the track of it, and had -by times, in digging, taken up remainders of the wall, with many coins, -bricks, tiles, and other antiquities. I bought some coins of him, among -which the brass one of Antoninus Pius depicted in the plate; on the -reverse, Britannia sitting on a rock with a military ensign. Sir Philip -Sydenham has a great quantity of coins found here, and the minister of -the parish gave many to the learned Mr. Coke of Norfolk. This gardener -showed me many square paving bricks in the floor of his house, and -told me he dug up a great brass coin, as big as half a crown, under -the foundation of the wall, which doubtless would have discovered to -us the _area_ of its building. Crossing the Sherburn and Limington -road, we find the ditch again, turning up to the river-side, on the -eastern angle, conformable to the scheme; where it is again inclosed -into gardens and pastures: the occupier of the gardens there informed -me too, that he had frequently dug up the like antiquities, together -with the foundations of the wall. The quickset-hedge that fences in -the garden stands on the edge of the ditch, and observes its turn at -that angle of the city: by the new mill it meets the river. In all the -gardens hereabouts, by the Borough-green, they find foundations of old -houses; and some run across the present streets, now visible above -ground. This ditch, when perfect, admitted the water of the river quite -round. Mr. Lockyer’s house is built upon subterraneous arches. They say -here have been sixteen parish-churches, and foundations are to be found -all the town over; and that the suburbs extended southward, especially -on the Yeovil road, which formerly had a gate: it is not to be doubted -but that there were gates at the passage of all the other streets. They -say the bishop of Bath and Wells has a manuscript relating to the -ancient state of this town. They have the same tradition as in many -other places, that the old city was set on fire by matches tied to the -tails of sparrows, let fly from a place called Stannard-cross hill. As -soon as I came into the inn, (the Swan) I saw a great parcel of the -little stones of a tesselated pavement, found but two days before, in a -garden over the way near the river: a croud of people came immediately -out of curiosity to see it, and tore it up: I saw some of the remainder -_in situ_, about two foot deep, laid in strong mortar upon a hard -gravelled floor: I made the owner melancholy with informing him what -profit he might have got by preserving it, to show to strangers. The -Foss-way retains its name, and makes the principal street: the pavement -thereof, or the original ford across the river, may be seen on the -west side of the bridge, made with great flag stones. Upon the bridge -is an old chapel, called Little St. Mary’s: at the foot of the bridge -within the town is another, called White-chapel; both converted into -dwellings. Foundations of houses, chimney-pieces, and the like, have -been dug up in the meads on the west side the town, and on both sides -the river, with stone coffins and other funeral _apparatus_. The head -of the mayor’s staff or mace is a piece of great antiquity in cast -brass: there are four niches with four images, two kings, a queen, and -an angel: it seems to have been the crosier of some religious house: -round the bottom is wrote, in two lines, *+ JESU DE DRUERJE + NEME -DUNETMJE*. In the northern angle beyond the old ditch of the city, -towards the river, have been some bastions and modern fortifications, -of the time of king Charles I. - -[Illustration: 72 ISCHALIS - _17. Aug. 1723._ - - a. _Little Sᵗ. Marys chappel_ - b. _where I saw a mosaic pavement_ - c. _pavement of Roman brick_ - ddd. _old Foundations_ - e. _pavement a cross the River_ - f. _Road to Limington &c._ - g. _White chapel_ - - _Carolo Lockyer Ar. tab. d.d. W. Stukeley._ - - _Stukeley del._ _I. Vᵈᵉʳ. Gucht Sculp._] - -Beyond the river is a village adjoining, called North-over, with a -church; at Mrs. Hoddle’s, hard by, I saw a grey-hound bitch, from whose -side a skewer of wood seven inches long had worked itself out from the -stomach: we have some such rare cases in medicinal histories. They talk -of a castle standing where now is the gaol, and that the tide came -formerly up hither, though now it reaches not beyond Langport. West of -this, some time since, they dug up some bones in a leaden case, as big -as a band-box, laid in a hollowed stone; and near it, under a tree, was -a vault of stone, where a body was found lying at full length. Langport -is moted about, as they tell me, and probably was a Roman town. These -were all the remarkables I met with at _Ischalis_, where I staid but -half a day. - -[Sidenote: Foss _road_.] - -[Sidenote: +Hamden-hill.+ Ro. _camp_.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XLIV.] - -Hence I continued my journey along the Foss, which I observed paved -with the original work in many parts: it is composed of the flat -quarry-stones of the country, of a good breadth, laid edgewise, and so -close that it looks like the side of a wall fallen down, and through -the current of so many ages is not worn through: a glorious and -useful piece of industry, and, to our shame, not imitated; for small -reparation from time to time would have preserved it intire, and where -it is so much wanted in a dirty country. As I rode, on my left hand -I saw the pleasant view of Montacute hill, a copped round eminence -incompassed at bottom with a broad verge of wood, so that it looks like -a high-crowned hat with a fringed hat-band: here has been a castle and -chapel at top, and below it a religious house built by the earl of -Moriton in the time of William the Conqueror.[133] Another hill near -it, much of the same figure. Between them and the Foss, upon the same -hilly ridge, is a Roman camp called Hamden hill, with a double ditch -about it; to which leads a vicinal Roman way from the Foss through -Stoke. The Foss is very plain and strait hither, and to Petherton -bridge near South Petherton, once the palace of king Ina: here was -formerly a wooden bridge, but ruinous, where two children were drowned, -as they say; whereupon their parents rebuilt it of stone, and caused -their _effigies_ to be cut upon a stone which lies at the foot of the -bridge. In a field not far off, two years ago a pot full of Roman coin, -to the quantity of six pecks, was dug up. Beyond this the Foss grows -intricate and obscure, from the many collateral roads made through the -badness and want of reparation in the true one; yet it seems to run -through Donington, which stands on a very high hill, and, when mounted, -presents us with a vast scene of Devonshire. I suppose this Foss went -on the east side of Chard, and so by Axminster and Culliton, to Seaton -or _Moridunum_, where properly it begins; whence if we measure its -noble length to the sea-coast in Lincolnshire, at Grimsby or Saltfleet, -where I imagine it ends, it amounts to 250 Roman miles in a strait -line from north-east to south-west. Your lordship presented me with -an oyster, found a little northward of Axminster, where the very fish -appears petrified with its cartilaginous concretion to the shell, all -in their proper colours. - -[Sidenote: +Chard.+] - -The street of Chard runs directly east and west, where formerly was -kept a large market on Sundays. Beyond this to Honiton is a very bad -road of stones and sand, over brooks, spring-heads, and barren downs. -From the hill-tops about Stockland I first had sight of the southern -ocean; a most solemn view, a boundless extent of water thrown into a -mighty horizontal curve. Beyond Honiton the scene of travelling mended -apace, and the fine Devonshire prospects entertained the eye in a -manner new and beautiful; for here the hills are very long and broad, -the valleys between proportional, so that the vastly-extended concavity -presented an immense landscape of pastures and hedge-rows distinct, -like a map of an actual survey, and not beyond ken: these are full of -springs, brooks, and villages, copses and gentlemen’s seats; and when -you have passed over one hill, you see the like repeated before you, -with Nature’s usual diversity. They told me of a great kairn, or heap -of stones, on Black down, called Lapper-stones; probably a sepulchral -monument. - -[Sidenote: +Isca Dumnoniorum.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. LXXIII.] - -Exeter is the famous _Isca Dumnoniorum_ of the Romans, the last station -this way in Antoninus his Itinerary; _pen cair_ of the Britons, the -capital: it is a large and populous city, built upon a pleasant -eminence on the eastern bank of the river _Ex_, or _Isca_ when -latinised. I suppose the original word signifies no more than waters, -like the French _eaux_, a collection of them, or several rivers, or -branches of rivers, running parallel; and that whether it be wrote -_Ax_, _Ex_, _Ix_, _Ox_, or _Ux_; of which many instances all over -England. This river is navigable up to the city, but the tide comes -not quite so high. The walls take in a very great compass, being a -parallelogram of 3000 Roman feet long, 2000 broad; having a gate on -every side: it lies oblique to the cardinal points of the compass, -and objects its main declivity to the south-west. What adds to its -wholesomeness and cleanliness, is that the ground is higher in a ridge -along the middle of its length, declining on both sides: further, on -the south-west and north-west sides it is precipicious: so that, with -the river, the walls, the declivity of ground and ditch without side, -it was a place of very great strength, and well chose for a frontier -against the ancient _Corinavii_: it was built with a good omen, and -has been ever in a flourishing condition. The walls are in pretty -good repair, having many lunettes and towers, and make a walk -round the city, with the advantage and pleasure of seeing the fine -country on the opposite hills, full of wood, rich ground, orchards, -villages and gentlemen’s houses. The beauty of the place consists -mainly of one long street, running the length of the parallelogram, -called High-street, broad and strait: the houses are of a very old, -but good model, spacious, commodious, and not inelegant: this street -is full of shops well furnished, and all sorts of trades look brisk. -The people are industrious and courteous: the fair sex are truly so, -as well as numerous; their complexions, and generally their hair -likewise, fair: they are genteel, disengaged, of easy carriage and good -mien. At Mr. Cole’s the goldsmith I saw an old ground-plot of this -city in queen Elizabeth’s time: there has been since a vast increase -of buildings within and without the city: the situation renders it -of necessity clean, dry and airy. The soil hither from Honiton was -rather sandy than stony, whence it must needs be very healthful; and -it is of a convenient distance from the sea. They drive a great trade -here for woollen manufacture in cloths, serges, stuffs, &c. all along -the water-side innumerable tenters or racks for stretching them. -Here is a good face of learning too; many booksellers’ shops: I saw -a printed catalogue of an auction of books to be sold there. I saw -the coloss head of the empress Julia Domna dug up near Bath, in Dr. -Musgrave’s garden, which his father calls _Andromache_: the head-dress -is like that of her times, and her bust at Wilton; nor is the manner -and carving despisable: the graver has not done it justice. It is -the noblest relique of British antiquity of this sort that we know: -it is twenty-one inches from the top of the attire to the chin, and -belonged to a statue of twelve foot proportion, set upon some temple -or palace originally. In the same place is the inscription of Camillus -published by him: I saw his library, a very good collection of books, -coins and other antiquarian _supellex_; likewise a treatise, ready for -publication, of the original gout, which he wrote thirty years ago, -before his other two. The doctor had made this distemper his particular -view through his long practice; and this country remarkably abounds -with patients of that sort, which he attributes in a great measure to -the custom of marling the lands with lime, and the great use of poor, -sweet cyder, especially among the meaner people. - -[Illustration: 73 +Isca.+ _S. Sidwels_ +Dvmnoniorvm+. - 19 Aug. 1723 - - Gulielmo Musgrave M.D. Gulielmi filio Amico suo d.d. _W. Stukeley_ - - _Stukeley delin._ _Parker sculp_] - -In the northern angle of the city, and highest ground, is Rugemont -castle, once the royal residence of the West-Saxon kings, then of -the earls of Cornwall: it is of a squarish figure, not very large, -environed with a high wall and deep ditch: there is a rampire of earth -within, equal in height to the top of the wall at present, and makes -a terrace-walk overlooking the city and country. In the morning, the -air being perfectly serene, and the sun shining, I observed from this -place all the country southward, between the sea and Exeter, covered -with a very thick fog; the west side of the city and country beyond it -very clear. In this place is the assize-house and a chapel. In the wall -of this castle is a narrow cavity quite round, perhaps for conveyance -of a sound from turret to turret. Dr. Holland supposes this to have -been a Roman work originally; and it is not unlikely that it was their -_prætorium_, or garrison. Beyond the ditch is a pleasant walk of trees, -and a little intrenched hill, called Danes castle. - -The cathedral is a good pile of building: two old towers stand on -the north and south transept of the most ancient part: the organ is -remarkably large; the diapason pipes fifteen inches diameter, and -set against the pillars of the church: the west front of the church -is full of old statues. Many religious foundations in the city are -converted into streets and houses, full of numerous families and -thriving inhabitants, instead of lazy monks and nuns. King Edward I. in -the Saxon times founded the monastery of Exeter, anno 868: Athelstan -enlarged it for the Benedictines in 932: Edward Confessor translated -those monks to Westminster, and made this an episcopal see; not Edward -III. as Mr. Camden says. Leofricus a Briton was the first bishop, and -founder of the cathedral: he was chaplain to king Edward the Confessor, -anno 1046: he gave his lands at Bampton in Oxfordshire to this church: -he has a monument in the southern transept. Warewast, the third bishop, -began to build the choir, 13 Henry I. Bishop Brewer created the dean -and prebends in the time of Henry III. Bishop Quivel built the body of -the church to the west end, 13 Edward I. he instituted the sub-dean and -singing-men. Bishop Grandison lengthened the cathedral by two arches, -and is buried in a little chapel in the west end: bishop Lacy began -the chapter-house; bishop Nevil finished it: bishop Courtney built the -north tower, or rather repaired it, and gave that large bell called -_Peter_: the dean and chapter built the cloysters. St. Mary’s chapel, -at the end of the choir, is now turned into a library: this, I suppose, -is what bishop Leofric built. The bishop’s throne in the choir is a -lofty Gothic work. Here are many monuments of bishops in the cathedral. - -The present deanery, they say, was a nunnery. The monastery of St. -Andrew at Cowic was founded by Thomas Courtney earl of Devon; a cell -to Bec abbey in Normandy: it was dissolved in the time of Edward III. -Roger Holland, I suppose duke of Exeter, lived in it in the time -of Edward VI. St. Nicholas’ priory was a cell to Battle abbey: St. -John’s was of Augustine friers: Polesloe, a mile off, dedicate to St. -Catharine, a nunnery of the Benedictine order: Marsh was a cell to -Plympton: Cleve was a monastery of Black canons; St. James’ priory, -of Cluniac monks: Grey friers, without South-gate, were Franciscans; -Gold-hays, without West-gate, Black friers: the Bear inn was the abbot -of Tavistock’s house; the Blacklion too was a religious house; Lathbier -another, near the new river below Radford mount. Thus had these holy -locusts well nigh devoured the land. - -In Corry lane, over-against St. Paul’s church, is a little old house -called King Athelstan’s, said to have been his palace, built of large -square stones, and circular arches over the doors: it seems indeed to -have been originally a Roman building, though other later works have -been added to the doors and windows: over the door in the street is a -very small niche crouded into the wall, as if it had been converted -into a religious house: in the yard a winding stone stair-case is -added. One arch of South-gate seems to be Roman. No doubt the walls of -the city are upon the Roman foundation for the most part, and great -numbers of antiquities have been found here. In digging behind the -guild-hall in Pancras-lane, they found a great Roman pavement of little -white square stones eight foot deep. A pot of Roman coin of two pecks -was dug up, two years ago, near St. Martin’s church: I saw some of -them in Dr. Musgrave’s possession, of Gordian, Balbinus, Philippus, -Julia Mæsa, Geta, Gallienus, and the like. Mr. Loudham, surgeon in this -city, has many of them among his curious collection of antiquities, -manuscripts, &c. Mr. Reynolds the schoolmaster is a great collector -and preserver of such learned remains. St. Mary Arches church, and St. -Stephen’s Bow, by their names seem to have been built out of Roman -temples. - -[Illustration: 75 MORIDVNVM Aug. 20 1723. - - A. _Seaton._ B. _Salt pans._ C. _Watch tower._ D. _Portland._ - _Stukeley del._] - -[Illustration: 74 Prospect of Exeter 19 Aug. 1723. - ISCA Dumnoniorum. - - _Stukeley del._] - -[Sidenote: TAB. LXXIV.] - -The bridge over the _Isca_ is of great length, and has houses on -both sides and both ends; a considerable void space in the middle: -there is a church upon it with a tower-steeple. In the Guild-hall -are the pictures of general Monk, and the princess Henrietta Maria, -born at Bedford-house, a palace in this city, during the civil wars. -The composition of the stone of this country is intirely made of -little black pebbles, incrusted in a sandy matter of a red colour and -mouldering nature. - -[Sidenote: +Moridunum.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. LXXV.] - -Leaving Exeter, my farthest western longitude at present, I steered my -course back again along the sea-side, inwrapped in contemplation with -the poet, - - _Undæ quæ vestris pulsatis littora lymphis, - Littora quæ dulces auras diffunditis agris!_ +Virg.+ - -[Sidenote: +Honey-Ditches.+ _a Camp_. - -Nor could I think myself alone, when so much new entertainment was -presented to me every minute. Much rock-samphire grows upon these -cliffs. The Roman road seems to have crossed the Otter at Hertford. At -Woodbury is a camp. I passed by Sidmouth, and came to Seaton, a little -village upon the mouth of the river Ax. This Mr. Camden conjectures to -have been the Roman _Moridunum_, and with reason: it has been a great -haven and excellent port, of which they still keep up the memory: the -river runs in a large valley, having high ground on each side: the -shore is rocky, high and steep, consisting of the ends of hills which -here run north and south: the ground at bottom under the rocks is -marly; the waves wash it down perpetually, undermining the _strata_ of -stone, which from time to time fall down in great parcels. At present -this haven mouth, which is a good half-mile over, is filled up with -beach, as they call it; that is, coggles, gravel, sand, shells, and -such matter as is thrown up by the roll of the ocean: so that the river -water has but a very narrow passage on the east side under the cliff. -The beach was covered over with _papaver luteum corniculatum_, now in -blossom: the people in the isle of Portland call it _squat maw_, i. e. -bruise herb, and use it in that case, no doubt with good success, where -both intentions are answered, of dissolving the coagulated blood, and -easing pain. On the west side, near Seaton, upon a little eminence is a -modern ruined square _Pharos_ built of brick; they remember it sixteen -foot high; and two guns lie there. They say there were formerly many -great foundations of houses visible nearer the sea than the present -town, but now swallowed up; and in all likelihood there stood the Roman -city. More inward toward the land, beyond the great bank of beach, is a -marsh which the sea has made, landing itself up when its free flux was -hindered: this is full of salt-pans, into which they take the sea-water -at high tides. When they dig these places they find innumerable keels -and pieces of vessels, with nails, pitch, anchors, &c. six or eight -foot deep, because it was formerly part of the haven: anchors have -been found as high as Axminster, and beyond it, though now there is no -navigation at all: so great a change has Time produced in the face of -Nature, upon these confines of the two great elements always opposing -each other. - - _Sic volvenda ætas commutat tempora rerum._ +Lucr. V.+ - -Half a mile off, upon higher ground, on the western side is a castle -in a pasture, but formerly tilled, called Honey Ditches: it is moted -about, and perhaps walled; for they dig up much square stone there. The -place is an oblong square, containing about three acres: I guess it to -have been the garrison of the port. Just by the present haven-mouth is -a great and long pier or wall, jutting out into the sea, made of great -rocks piled together to the breadth of six yards. They told me it -was built many years ago by one Courd, once a poor sailor, who, being -somewhere in the Mediterranean, was told by a certain Greek, that much -treasure was hid upon Hogsdon hill near here, and that this memorial -was transmitted to him by his ancestors: Courd, upon his return digging -there, luckily found the golden mine, which enriched him prodigiously; -so that at his own expence he built this wall, with an intent to -restore the harbour. The people hereabouts firmly believe the story, -and many have dug in the place with like hopes; and as an argument of -its truth, they say some of his family are still remaining, that live -upon their estate got by him. - -A mile higher on the same western side of the river is Cullyford, where -was the ancient road from London to Exeter passing over at Axbridge, -which is now a stony ford, with two bridges that traverse the valley -and the river, once a haven. Here have been many inns and houses, and -a considerable town. They talk of great stone vaults being found; so -that it probably arose from the destruction of _Moridunum_, as Culliton -adjacent, from it. Further, it was a corporation, and they now keep up -their claim by an annual choice of a mayor, who has a mace too, but I -suppose not of great elegance. - -[Sidenote: +Londinis.+] - -[Sidenote: +Lyme.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. LXXVI.] - -Lyme lies upon the sea-side, in the cavity between two mountains, the -_Londinis_ of Ravennas according to Mr. Baxter. Here is a bold stony -shore, the ridges of the hills jutting out into the sea; but broken off -continually, and wasted away, by the waves as before: the ground too -is clay and stone. Their method of opposing its violence is to throw -out a wall of huge dry stones, which by time gathers the beech, and -consolidates to a greater breadth. Besides, here is a great artificial -pier, called the Cobb, extended to the length of 1000 foot with a bow -into the ocean, where ships lie secure from the impetuous surges. Here -are two little forts, one with five, another with three guns. A large -sort of sea horse-tail grows plentifully upon these clayey cliffs; and -many little springs issue thereout in the face of the briny deep, which -loosen the earth, and hasten its continual downfall. I took notice -that the declivity of the hills, with the veins of stone and different -_strata_ of earth in these cliffs, is ever north-west, just as is the -appearance of the Isle of Portland hence, and with the same angle. -The town of Lyme has a pretty good appearance. A small river runs in -a rocky _alveus_ through the middle of it into the sea. Most of their -buildings are of a rag-stone, blue, not very durable. The duke of -Monmouth landed at this place just by the pier with only twelve men: -many of his party were executed on the spot afterwards, their limbs -hung up in the town. Before that time the duke of Tuscany came here on -shore in his visit to Britain. This is called Lime-Regis. - -[Sidenote: +Icening-street.+] - -[Sidenote: +Aggerdon.+] - -Here entering Dorsetshire, I journeyed along the coast, in view of the -ocean, and Portland isle growing more and more distinct, till I came -to Bridport, a large town upon a little river. Ascending a high hill, -I found myself upon the great downs of chalk like those at Salisbury, -and, much to my surprize, infinitely fuller of Celtic barrows than your -lordship’s celebrated plains. What matters of that sort I discovered -shall be referred to another discourse. A little north of Bridport I -found the great Icening-street of the Romans going to Dorchester, -which I accompanied with no small pleasure. I imagine it goes a little -farther up the country than I had travelled, and hereabouts may -properly be said to begin, probably meeting the Foss at _Moridunum_. -The road from _Moridunum_ westward through Exeter I think ought not -to be denominated either from the one or the other, because -of a different direction, which with reasonable allowance I esteem -essential: but this road we are upon, which is the parallel and sister -to the Foss, from Seaton to Yarmouth in Norfolk, extends to the like -quantity of 250 Roman miles. In this place it is called the Ridge-way, -both as it rises in an artificial ridge, and as it takes a high ridge -all the way between here and Dorchester, having many valleys on both -sides. The composition of the road is wholly of flints gathered off the -lands, or taken from near the surface: these were laid in a fine bank, -and so covered with turf. As I road along I found it frequently makes -great curves to avoid passing over valleys, and industriously keeps -on the highest ground, and commands the prospect of the country every -where: it goes to Eggardon hill, as they tell me, north of Bridport; -and here I suppose is a camp, whence the whole hundred is denominated: -whether from this camp, or from this road, it is plain the old Latin -word is retained, _agger_; therefore _aggerdon_, as it ought to be -wrote, is the hill intrenched, or the down where the high road runs. - -[Illustration: 76 Prospect of Lyme 21 Aug. 1723. - - LONDINIS. - - A. _Where the Duke of Monmouth Landed_ - B. _Portland_ - C. _The Peer._ - - _Stukeley del._] - -[Illustration: 77 +Dvrnovaria+ - _Aug. 22. 1723_ - - _Stukeley delin._] - -[Illustration: 78 _Augˢᵗ: 22. 1723_ - _Prospect of Dorchester from the Amphitheater._ - - _Stukeley Del._] - -The Icening-street derives its name not from beginning, but ending, -at the Iceni, _via ad Icenos_. They say hereabouts it was cast up in -a night’s time by the devil, referring to a supernatural agent the -effect of Roman wisdom and industry. It enters the city of Dorchester -by the north of Winterburn at West-gate. In divers places they have -mended it where wore out, by a small slip of chalk and flints, with a -shameful and degenerate carelessness; so that we may well pronounce the -Romans worked with shovels, the moderns with tea-spoons: besides, it -is mostly inclosed and obstructed with perpetual gates across it, to -the great hindrance of travellers, to whom public ways ought to be laid -open and free; and the authors of such nusances may well be declared -sacrilegious. An endless fund of Celtic as well as Roman inquiries -hereabouts, and no where less regarded. - -[Sidenote: +Durnovaria.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. LXXVII.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. LXXVIII.] - -Dorchester, the Roman _Durnovaria_, meaning the passage over the river, -is a good regular town, standing conformable to the four cardinal -points, with the river on its north side: it had four gates in the -middle of each side, was encompassed with a strong wall and ditch, if -not two; for so it seems, though now levelled into arable, to which -the inhabitants hereabout are extremely prone. On the west side great -part of the old Roman wall is standing, twelve foot thick, made of -rag-stone, laid side by side and obliquely, then covered over with -very strong mortar: the next course generally leans the contrary way: -now and then three horizontal ones for binding, for much flint is used -withal. I saw the foundation of it in a saw-pit laid upon the solid -chalk: it is yet twelve foot high, broke through and battered every -where, as if the sight of it was obnoxious: this is a strong manner -of building, and very expeditious. Much more of this wall remained -within memory. It would surprise one to think why the very ruins of -it should be pulled down, which must be done with great labour, and -frequently a mud wall erected in its place. The foundations appear -quite round the town; but eastward a street is built upon it, and -the ditch filled up: it is still called The Walls; for that way the -town is swelled out into a considerable village, with a church and -handsome tower, called Fordington, corruptly Farington. Here are three -churches in the town beside it. On the south and west side, without -the walls, a handsome walk of trees is planted, looking pleasantly -into the fields; but the sort of them being common sycamores, are -incommodious by harbouring flies. The winding of the river on the -north spoils the square of the town that way; and there is an _area_ -of a castle, out of the ruins of which the grey friers built their -convent: but now all the works are wholly obliterated, religious and -military. The banks of the river here are steep, for the town stands -on high ground. Beyond the river are meadows and warm sandy lands; on -this side, the fine chalky downs, pleasant for riding, and profitable -in excellent grain. The air must needs be wholesome and pure, the -climate warm, and a sufficient distance from the sea; so that we need -not wonder if the Romans were fond of this place. The level of the old -city was much lower than the present; for antiquities, which are found -in great number, always lie deep. Some farmers were levelling another -great barrow; but the people of Fordington rose in arms and prevented -them with a laudable animosity. All this land is of the prince’s fee. -I took notice of a particularity in the stone they use here: it is -fetched from a quarry southward in the way to Weymouth; a flag-stone, -rising in large dimensions, but not very thick: the superfice of it is -curiously and regularly indented or waved, like a mat made of cables, -and that very regularly: it much resembles the face of the sands upon -the sea shore, just after the tide is gone off: it is very convenient -for paving, and those natural undulations prevent slipperiness, being -nevertheless level enough: they make fences for their grounds with it -in many places, setting them up edgewise in a pretty method. The Roman -money dug up here are called _dorn-pennies_, or king Dor’s money: the -reverend Mr. Place, living here, showed me a great collection of them. -Much _opus tessellatum_ has been found. As this town, so Wareham below -from its ford derives its name. In Lincolnshire we call them still -_warths_. - -From Dorchester many Roman roads disperse themselves, beside the -Icening-street, passing directly over the meadows to Walton: one goes -by the amphitheatre southward to Weymouth; another by Poundbury, -Stretton, to Yeovil and Ischalis; another probably to Wareham. - -[Sidenote: +Poundbury+ _a_ Ro. _Camp_.] - -Poundbury, I am intirely persuaded, was a camp of Vespasian’s, when he -was busy hereabouts in the conquest of the _Belgæ_, therefore ancienter -than the adjacent Roman city: the situation, the bulk, and the manner -of it, so much resembling that by Ambsbury, engages me into that -sentiment: it stands half a mile west of Dorchester, upon the brink -of the river, which is very steep, in form square: the rampart high, -but the ditch inconsiderable, except at the angle by the river; the -reason is, because standing on high ground, they dug the earth clear -away before it, and threw it intirely into a _vallum_; so that its -height and steepness, wherein its strength consists, is the same as if -a regular ditch was made in level ground. The chief entrance was on -the south side: there seems likewise to have been an entrance next the -river, but made with great art; for a narrow path is drawn all along -between the edge of the precipice and the _vallum_, so that it was -absolutely impossible to force an entry that way: beside, I observe, -beyond the camp, for a long way, a small trench is cut upon the said -edge, which seems designed to prevent the ascent of cavalry, if they -should pass the river: the ground of the camp rises in the middle, as -was usual among the Romans in their choice. There is a _tumulus_ too, -which I imagine is Celtic, and extant before the camp was made: this -levelled a little might serve for the _prætorium_. A very good prospect -from hence all around. The name is taken from its inclosure as a pound; -for here they call a circle of stones round a _tumulus_, a pound. - -[Sidenote: +Maiden Castle.+ _a_ Ro. _Camp_.] - -The other camp, called Maiden Castle, was undoubtedly the _Æsiiva_ of -the Durnovarian garrison:[134] it is of a vast extent, and prodigiously -strong, apparently of much later date than the foregoing, its -manner savouring of inferior times of the empire: it has every where -a double ditch of extraordinary depth, and a double rampire, in some -places treble or more: it takes in the whole summit of a great hill: -within it seems as if two camps, a ditch and _vallum_ running across, -with each its entry of very perplexed work; several ditches with cross -entries lapping over one another, as we may well express it; especially -westward, where their number may be affirmed half a score. Certainly, -for healthful air and prospect, a most delightful place; - - _Heic Veneris vario florentia serta decore, - Purpureo campos quæ pingit avena colore. - Hinc auræ dulces, hinc suavis spiritus agri._ +Virg.+ - -and, for sight of barrows, I believe not to be equalled in the -world; for they reach ten miles. What further remains to be said of -Dorchester, is the noble amphitheatre, of which your lordship first -gave me the hint; therefore most justly are you intitled to the -following description of it. - -[Illustration: 61 VINDOMA. _4 Aug. 1722_ - - Peritura Moenia Stylo renovavit _Ger. Vander Gucht_. - - _Stukeley Designavit._] - - - _Of the_ ROMAN AMPHITHEATRE _at_ Dorchester. - -[Sidenote: TAB. LXI. XCVII.] - -There was no kind of civil edifice, or public work, more frequent among -the Romans, in Italy or the conquered provinces, than such as related -to sports and games; for that brave and wise people both judged and -found that method well calculated to bring over the nations to their -own language and customs, being agreeable contrivances that seemed -rather pleasure and delight than compulsion. Such were theatres, circs, -amphitheatres, _stadia_, and the like. There were three amphitheatres -in the city of Rome; that of Vespasian, the Castrense, and of Statilius -Taurus: and, though we find them not so particularly taken notice of -elsewhere in historians, yet we behold the things themselves, whose -immense bulk and weighty materials have generally so long out-faced -time and weather. We may affirm, there was scarce any colony or free -city, of considerable note, in their extensive empire, that wanted -these places of public pastime; and scarce any province now, where -their footsteps at least are not visible, and many almost intire, -particularly what we are now treating upon, amphitheatres: yet I -believe it will appear a novelty to most people, when we shall talk of -such curious antiquities in Britain. But since this time twelve-months, -I have seen three, one at Silchester, another at Richborough castle -in Kent, and this at Dorchester in Dorsetshire. I have been told of -one with six tire of seats, three mile off Redruth in Cornwall. Sir -Christopher Wren is the first person that I know of who gave this hint -of inquiry, in discovering this, many years ago, in his journeys to -the isle of Portland, when he began to build St. Paul’s cathedral. -Great pity it is that he did not take an exact description of it at -that time, when in greater perfection, before the gallows were removed -hither by an unlucky humour of the sheriff; since when the parapet -at top is on that side much beaten down, by the trampling of men and -horses at executions; but especially because his great skill might have -done it exact justice, and by means of his pen it might have shared -in the duration of his works. In defect of such illustration, I hope -the reader will accept of my mean endeavours to preserve so valuable -a piece of architecture, which, notwithstanding the damage above -mentioned, and that the _area_ of it has been ploughed up these many -years, will still give a spectator a fine notion in the structures of -this sort abroad, deservedly the admiration of travellers; and will -present a person of understanding, the pleasure of observing the noble -and great genius of the Romans in every production of their hands. Nor -does the meanness of its materials debase, but rather inhance, its -value and its art; for, though less costly and lasting than stone and -marble, of which others are generally built, yet for the same reason -less liable to rapine, and the covetous humour of such as plunder them -for other uses: therefore I believe, in the main, it is as perfect as -most abroad, if not so alluring to the eye; whence we may suppose it -has so long escaped common observation, though close by a great town -and road. - -An amphitheatre is properly a double theatre, or two theatres joined -together. A theatre is a semicircle wherein are the seats of the -spectators; the _apparatus_ of the actors, or scenes, filling up the -diameter before it. But if we would be more exact, we shall observe, -it is half as long again as the _radius_; for they cut off the fourth -part of a circle, then the rest became the form of their theatres. -Now two such as these joined together, throwing away the scenic part, -constituted an amphitheatre; taking its name from circular vision, -and because the seats were continued quite round, the faces of the -people being all directed to the centre of its excentricity: so its -use required, different from that of the theatre, where the company -look all one way toward the stage. But then, as Lipsius takes notice -in discoursing upon this topic, the lines, at the ends where they are -conjoined, must be drawn outward a little, approaching more to strait -lines, than it becomes a true oval, well expressed by Cassiodorus; -“for, (says he) the _area_ includes the figure of an egg, which affords -due space for combatants, and more advantage to spectators to see every -thing by its long curvity or relaxed circle.” These were not put in -practice at Rome till the end of the commonwealth, and appropriated to -the hunting and fighting of wild-beasts, to gladiators and the like; -and at last to sea engagements, represented in gallies floating upon -the water, which they introduced for that purpose. First of all, they -made them _pro tempore_ of timber, being two theatres, each fixed upon -a wonderful _axis_, and so contrived, that when they pleased they -could turn both together, with all the people on their seats, and -make an amphitheatre; of which Pliny, xxxv. 15. speaks with a note -of astonishment, as it really was. This was done by C. Curio, one of -Cæsar’s party. It is worth while to read the great naturalist’s descant -upon it. This I suppose gave occasion to the building of regular -amphitheatres, of which Cæsar made the first in the _Campus Martius_, -but of wood, when he was dictator. The first of stone was erected in -Augustus his time, by Statilius Taurus, in the place of the former, -which was the only one till Vespasian, whose work was the monstrous -_Colissæum_, but finished by his son Titus. This has afforded materials -for many public buildings in Rome, and still boasts its immense ruins, -as one of the greatest prodigies of the imperial city. - -Vitruvius mentions nothing of amphitheatres; therefore he probably -published his book before that of Taurus was built: as for Cæsar’s, -it belonged not to masonry, being carpenter’s work; in which he was a -very great master, as in every thing else: so that we must form our -notions of these things from the works themselves, and the ruins that -time has spared. The parts of an amphitheatre are these: the _arena_ -or space within, the scene of action; the _euripus_, or river that -generally encompassed the verge of it; the _podium_, or parapet at -bottom; the _itinera_, or _viæ_, which were the walks between certain -series of seats; the _ascensus_, steps or stairs; the _pulpita_ or -_tribunalia_, a sort of covered chair of state, where the emperor, his -legate, the prætor or chief magistrate of a city, sat; the _cathedræ_, -where the senators, foreign ambassadors, and great personages, sat; -the _gradus_, or common seats; the _præcinctiones_, which I suppose -balustrades; the _aditus_ or _vomitoria_, being the passages from the -stairs withinside to the seats, a metaphorical name, from the people -pouring themselves through them with violence; the _cunei_, which -were the space of seats comprehended between two of those passages, -so called from their wedge-like shape; the _porticus_, or galleries -within, partly for magnificence, and partly for convenience: all these -particulars are easily apprehended from inspection of schemes and -sections of these works in many authors. Some of them could not, others -need not to be in our work; therefore I shall occasionally enlarge -upon those pertinent to this subject, as they fall in our way in the -description. - -[Illustration: 50 _The Geometrical Groundplot of the Roman Amphitheatre - at Dorchester_ - _Aug. 22. 1723._ - - _Stukeley designʳ._] - -[Sidenote: TAB. LXXVII.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. LXXVIII.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. L.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. LIII.] - -The amphitheatre at Dorchester is situate on a plain in the open -fields about a quarter of a mile (being just 300 of my paces) or 1500 -foot south-west from the walls of the town, delicately ascending all -the way, close by the Roman road running from thence to Weymouth. The -vulgar call it Maumbury, but have no notion of its purpose, though -it is a common walk for the inhabitants, and the terrace at top is a -noted place of rendezvous, as affording a pleasant circular walk, and -a prospect of the town and wide plain of corn fields all around, much -boasted of by the inhabitants for most excellent grain. Westward of -the town we see the Roman camp called Poundbury, and southward the -most famous one Maiden castle, both before described. More southerly -all the hill-tops, as far as the eye reaches, are covered with an -incredible number of Celtic barrows. It stands upon the very edge of -that part of the fields which declines gently northward, or toward the -town, upon a chalk, and which without doubt at first was perfect down, -like that of Salisbury plain, or the neighbouring downs in the way to -Bridport. One may in fancy imagine the beauty of its prospect, and -the pleasantness of the walk hither upon that fine carpet, when all -was in its first perfection; but at present it is ploughed up to the -very skirt of the amphitheatre, both within and without: so foolishly -greedy are the country people of an inch of ground, that they have -levelled several barrows lately in the neighbourhood, which cost more -than the spot they covered will pay in fifty years. This work of ours -is raised of solid chalk upon the level, without any ditch about it. I -have endeavoured to delineate, as exactly as I could by mensuration, -the true and original ground-plot thereof, or architectonic design upon -which it is formed, from what is left by the injuries of age, of the -plough, of men and beasts; and that in its first and genuine scale the -Roman foot, which is about an eleventh part less than ours. The plate -Nᵒ 50, represents the amphitheatre as covered with the _subsellia_, -and as in its primitive perfection; for we may well suppose age has -diminished it on all dimensions: and in truth it requires a great -deal of thought and judgement to attempt to measure it. It is obvious -thence to observe, in the general, its conformity with other works of -this sort abroad, as far as its different materials will allow; and -the great judgement of the architect in varying his scheme thereto, so -as fully to answer the proposed end. It is to be noted that half this -work is above, and half below the surface of the ground, as visible in -a section; so that great part of the matter was dug out of the _cavea_ -in the middle; for it is a solid bed of chalk, and the rest fetched -from elsewhere. I believe the method of building it, was to join solid -chalk cut square like stones, and that mortar made of burnt chalk was -run into the joints; and probably all the outside was neatly laid with -scantlings of the same, but with the natural turf on: so that it is not -much inferior in strength to those of stone, though infinitely less -expensive; but for use and convenience there is very little difference; -and as to beauty, as far as relates to the seats, and what was visible -on the inside, our work no doubt was very handsome, and even now is a -very pleasant sight. It is observed of most amphitheatres abroad, that -they are placed without the cities for wholesomness, and upon elevated -ground for benefit of the air, and perflation; a thing much recomended -for theatres in Vitruvius; as that of Bourdeaux, 400 paces without -the city. Besides, this is very artfully set upon the top of a plain, -declining to the north-east; whereby the rays of the sun, falling upon -the ground hereabouts, are thrown off to a distance by reflection, and -the upper end of the amphitheatre, for the major part of the day, has -the sun behind the spectators. - -When you stand in the centre of the entrance, it opens itself with all -the grandeur that can be imagined: the jambs are wore away somewhat, -and the plough encroaches on its verge every year, especially the -cheeks below: never did I see corn growing, which of itself is an -agreeable sight, with so much indignation as in this noble concavity, -where once the _gens togata_, and majesty of imperial Rome, used to -show itself. The conjugate, or shortest diameter externally, is to the -longest as 4 to 5; that of the _area_ within, as 2 to 3: this is the -same proportion as of the amphitheatre at Lucca, which is 195 _brachia_ -in length, 130 broad: a _brachium_ is about 23½ of our inches: it is 25 -high. In ours therefore the two centres upon the transverse diameter, -or longest that form it, are 100 feet distant: the ends of the oval -are struck with a _radius_ of 60 feet set upon each of those centres. -The centres that describe the side-lines are formed by setting off 85 -feet on each side the diameter, from the centre of excentricity. Thus -from these four centres only the whole is delineated, and that most -easily and naturally; whence I suspect Desgodetz, in laying down his -plot of the _Coliseum_, has without necessity employed no less than -eight centres, which is an operation of great perplexity: but still -we except the circle in the middle, which so remarkably distinguishes -this from all other works, and which gives so great a beauty to -the scheme: this is that artful contrivance supplying the place of -portico’s, stair-cases, _vomitoria_, and all the costly work in the -grander amphitheatres, for ready conveyance of the spectators in and -out to their proper places: it is described from the common centre of -the whole, and in the ground-plot is a true circle; but upon the place -becomes a walk of eight foot broad, gradually ascending, from the ends -upon the long diameter, to its highest elevation in the middle upon -the short diameter, where it reaches half-way up the whole series of -seats of the spectators, who marching hence distribute themselves -therein from all sides without hurry and tumult. On the top is a -terrace twelve feet broad at least, beside the parapet outwardly five -feet broad, four high. There are three ways leading up to this; at the -upper end of the work, over the cave, one; and one on each side upon -the shortest diameter, going from the elevated part of the circular -walk: horses very conveniently, several a-breast, may go upon this, -and frequently do, ascending by the ruin of the cave, but not on the -outward steep. The parapet is now three or four foot high, but much -ruined on that side next the gallows since last year, at an execution: -not only so, but I saw a mixen heap laid under it on that side; and -some vile fellow had been digging down part of the amphitheatre to lay -among it for compost. There is some enormity, if one examines this -work in mathematical strictness without proper judgement: because it -stands on a declivity, some parts of the out-side are higher -than others, not only as to the same side, but as to the same part -on different sides: the plain on which it stands, declines to the -north-east: hence the outer side of the work is higher there than in -other places; therefore in my sections and ground-plot I endeavour to -reduce it to a medium, and the measure which seems to have been the -primary intent of the architect. - -[Illustration: 52 _A view of Dorchester Amphitheatre from the South - West._ - - _Stukeley Del. Aug. 1723._] - -[Illustration: 53 _The Side View of Dorchester Amphitheater._ - - _Stukeley delin._] - -[Illustration: 51 _A View of Dorchester Amphitheatre from the - Entrance._] - -[Sidenote: TAB. LIII.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XLII. 2d Vol.] - -The cave, or receptacle of the gladiators, wild beasts, &c. I suppose -to have been at the upper end, under the ascent to the terrace, being -vaults under that part of the body of the work: whether they were of -the same chalk, or timber, or whether they were arched with brick -or stone, or what other matter, I cannot say; but the ruin thereof -seems to be the reason of the present deformity at that end; so that -it is not easy to guess at its original profile. We may observe that -the parapet and terrace go back there, and, taking a new sweep, fall -beyond the line of the outer oval; for two reasons, as I conceive: -1st, Because by that means there is a greater length obtained for the -ascent to the terrace, which makes it more gradual and easy: 2dly, -Thereby more space is procured for the apartments of the prisoners -under ground. By the section lengthwise, it is easily understood that -I suppose a passage quite through, or subterraneous gallery upon that -end of the longest diameter, under the ascent to the terrace, from the -out-side into the _area_: this must open at the bottom of the _podium_, -as was practised in other works of like nature, with a squarish door, -as Varro tells us, _de re rustica_. “The door (says he) ought to be low -and narrow, of that sort which they call a _cochlea_, as is wont to be -in the cave where the bulls are shut up for fight.” The entrance to -this place might be from without-side the amphitheatre: here is no want -of room for the door within; for the level of the _area_ was at least -twelve feet lower than the _podium_, like our pit at the play-houses; -and it is probable there was a descent of the whole level this way, -to draw off the rain into some subterraneous passage: the _podium_ in -the _castrensian_ amphitheatre is monstrously high. Our _area_, no -doubt, is exceedingly elevated by manuring, ploughing, and ruins: yet -it preserves a dish-like concavity, through innumerable injuries; for -the descent from the entrance is very great, and you go down as into a -pit. I conjecture the middle part of the _area_ is now ten foot lower -than the level of the field: but the field itself, especially about the -entrance, is much lowered by ploughing, because the end of the circular -walk there, which should be even with the ground, is a good deal above -it. The dens and caves of the wild beasts at the great circ in Rome -were only of earth and wood, till Claudius the emperor built them of -marble. This ruin at the upper end is very considerable; for it has so -filled the _arena_ thereabouts, that the cattle plough up to the very -_præcinctio_. On the out-side is a large round tumour, a considerable -way beyond the exterior verge, and regular in figure, which certainly -has been somewhat appertaining to the work: I could wish that a careful -person had liberty of digging into it. Moreover, this _podium_ had a -parapet of earth, if not a balustrade, as was usual in others: behind -this, upon the lowermost seat, was the place of the senators and chief -persons, who often had chairs or cushions: this was the best place for -seeing and hearing, as being nearest the _arena_; whence Juvenal says, - - ————————_generosior & Marcellis, - Et Catulis Paulique minoribus et Fabiis & - Omnibus ad podium spectantibus_.———— - -So Suetonius, in _Augusto_, says, the senate made an order, that the -first or lowest seat at public spectacles should be left for them: -probably this was broader than any other seat, with a greater space -between the _podium_ and next seat, for more ease. The chair of state -for the _prætor_ was on one side, and probably another opposite to -it for the emperor, or his legate, which was reserved empty, for -state, in their absence; or for the _editor_ of the shows, who was -generally thus distinguished: and it is remarkable that a little -prominence is still left in these very places. These were set in the -middle of the _podium_, on each side, upon the shortest diameter, -and were covered with canopies like a tabernacle. This _podium_ had, -for greater safety, grates, nets, and lattice work of iron, or more -costly metal, supported by pillars, and the like: beside, there were -rollers of wood or ivory length-wise, which hindered the beasts from -climbing up, by their turning round, as is particularly described -by Calpurnius. And, moreover, in greater amphitheatres, there was a -ditch full of water under it, called _euripus_, first introduced by -Julius Cæsar. In the early times of these buildings, the people sat -all together promiscuously; but after the emperors, the places were -distinguished according to the degrees of quality, senators, knights, -or common people. The knights seats were next to the senators, fourteen -deep in number; so that _gradus quatuordecim_ became a phrase for -the equestrian order. We may suppose these two degrees filled all -the seats in our amphitheatre under the circular walk or ascent. The -common people possessed the remainder, or the whole concavity above -the circular walk, taking the best places as they came first: but the -uppermost seats were reserved particularly for the women; and one -reason of their distance was, I suppose, because the gladiators were -naked. And that no routs and confusions should disturb the order of -these solemnities, there were proper officers appointed, that took care -none should presume to sit out of the seats suitable to his degree. - -I imagine the terrace at top in our work was designed for the men -of arms: for they are by no means to be excluded, seeing one of the -primary intents of these diversions was to inure them, as well as the -people, to blood and murder. Hence, before they went upon any great -expedition, or foreign war, these feasts and butcheries were publicly -celebrated: and in my opinion, the two rising plots, that are squarish -on each side upon the shortest diameter, were for the officers. These -are above the level of the walk, or terrace, and might possibly have a -tent set upon them for that purpose. I call them pavilions: they are -of a handsome turn, and capable each of holding two dozen of people -commodiously: their side-breadth is fifteen foot; their length, i. e. -north and south, twenty: they are somewhat nearer the upper end, not -standing precisely upon the shortest diameter, and four foot above the -level of the terrace. I considered with care that seeming irregularity -of the terrace on both sides the lower end; for it is higher within -side than without, yet so as to produce no ill effect below, either -within or without, but the contrary. I find it is a master-piece of -skill, and am surprised that it has not been more defaced in so long -time. The matter is this: the work standing on a declining plain, this -artifice was necessary to render its appearance regular; for when you -stand in the centre within-side, the whole circuit of the terrace -seems and is really of one level: but on the out-side the verge of -the north-easterly part is sloped off gradually toward the entrance -where the declivity is, conformably with it; whence the whole exterior -contour appears of an equal height too: and this could not otherwise -have been obtained, since within it was necessary to keep a true level, -without regard to the outer plain. As to the seats, which I have -supposed in plate 50, they were contrived to be twice as broad as -high: their height was but a small matter more than a foot, and their -breadth not above two feet and a half; half that space being allotted -for the seat of the lowermost, and the other half for the feet of the -uppermost. The declivity of these _gradus_ is justly made within an -angle of thirty degrees, the third part of a quadrant: but this is more -exact at the ends; for in the middle, or towards the shortest diameter -over the elevated part of the circular walk, the upper _series_ of -seats has a somewhat more obtuse angle; the reason of which is obvious, -to overlook the breadth of the circular walk. This is most plainly -seen in the sections, and is done with judgement, because by that -means the upper edge of the amphitheatre is in a right line with the -declivity. As to the disposition of these seats, their method is as -new as curious: it is so contrived, that the circular walks cut the -whole breadth in two equal parts upon the shortest diameter; therefore -an equal number of seats is above and under it: hence the middle seat -at each extremity is in the same level with the elevated part of the -walk. Though these seats in other amphitheatres abroad were made of -stone or marble, yet they were generally covered with boards, because -more wholesome; and that sometimes covered with cushions for the better -sort. Dion Cassius tells us, this piece of nicety was first brought in -by Caligula, who gave cushions to the senators seats, that they might -not sit upon the bare boards, and _Thessalic_ caps to keep them from -the sun. The vulgar had mats made of reeds. I think we may well infer -from hence, that the seats in our amphitheatre were covered too with -plank, if not made wholly of it. The _præcinctiones_, or, as Vitruvius -sometimes calls them in Greek, _diazomata_, which commentators make a -difficulty about, to me seem only balustrades, because he orders them -to be as high as the breadth of the walk along them: beside that upon -the _podium_, here might possibly be one upon the inner edge of the -terrace which separated between the soldiers and the women. - -The _area_ in the middle was commonly called _arena_, from the sand -it was strown over with, for the better footing of the combatants, -and to drink up the blood: this again by intervals was fresh strown, -or raked over, to prevent slipperiness; for if, instead thereof, -the pavement had been brick or stone, it would have proved highly -inconvenient. Hence this word became a common appellation of an -amphitheatre, and most of those beyond sea are still called _arena_. -As for the present name of _Maumbury_, perhaps it comes corrupted from -the old British word _mainge_, signifying _scamnum_, _scabellum_, the -same as our bench, from the multitude of seats therein; the remains -of which in former times might very plausibly give occasion to such -an appellation. Or is it not equivalent to the heathen _bury_, from -the memory of these pagan sports therein celebrated? as our ancestors -used to call heathenism by the general name of _maumetry_, corrupted -from _mahometism_: of this my friend Robert Stephens, esq; J. C. first -gave me the hint. Thus in Trevisa’s translation of _Polychronicon_, -XIV. 18. p. 175. “Julianus had commaunded that crysten knyghtes sholde -do sacrefyce to _mawmettes_,” meaning heathen idols. Or is it from -the old-fashioned games of _mummings_, so frequent among us, derived -from _Mimus_ or _Momus_? The _Mimi_ were frequently introduced into -all shows, at theatres, amphitheatres, circs, &c. Or perhaps in the -same sense it is to be understood as in Oxfordshire they call land -_maum_, consisting of a mixture of white clay and chalk, Plot’s hist. -p. 240. The _area_ was originally about 140 feet diameter the shortest -way, 220 the longest; wherein it falls not much short of the compass -of the most considerable ones. The famous amphitheatre at Verona but -233, and 136; and the vast _Colisæum_ at Rome is but 263, 165; but, -I believe, as reckoned by a larger measure, the French foot. That at -Perigusium is less than ours, being 180 one way, 120 the other. I find -the amphitheatre at Silchester is of the same dimension with ours here, -and built of the same materials and form, as far as I could discern, -but more ruinous. - -These places, though of absolute necessity open at top, where usually -sheltered from rain in some measure, and from the sun effectually, by -great sail-cloths spread along the top from masts and ropes, which -were managed by the soldiers of the marine affairs, who were more -skilful in such work: a fashion first invented by Q. Catulus when he -was Ædile. The places where these poles were let through the cornices -of the upper order, and rested on corbels, are still visible in the -great amphitheatres. This probably was done in ours by masts and poles -fastened into the ground without-side, and leaning along the outside -bank; which would give them a very advantageous turn in hanging over -the top of the theatre; for the slope of the _agger_ externally is -with an angle of forty five degrees, being half a right angle, the -most natural and commodious for beauty and force to oppose against -the side weight: or they might erect them in the solid work on the -top of the terrace, seeing it has abundantly strength enough. But in -the particularity of these modes no certainty is at this time to be -expected. However, by the situation of the place, the architect has -taken great care, according to Vitruvius his rules about theatres, to -obviate the inconvenience of the sun-beams as well as possible; and -that in three respects. 1st, As he has set it upon a plain declining -northwards, and upon the higher part of the plain; upon the very tip -where the declivity begins. 2dly. By taking the bearing of it exactly, -I found the opening, or entrance thereto, is to the north-east precise: -hence it is very plain and easy to conceive, that from nine o’clock -in the morning till sun-set, in the longest day of the year, the sun -will be on the backs of the spectators, upon the upper or south-west -half of the building; which contrivance is worthy of notice: and that -this is not done upon account of the city of Dorchester lying that way, -but as a thing essential, is plain from the like in the amphitheatre -of Silchester, which opens upon the same point, though directly the -farthest from the city. 3dly, The breadth of the opening or entrance, -level with the surface, and opposite to the falling beams of the sun, -must produce a very great rebatement of the heat thereof, reflected -into this vast concave, and prove a convenience the other amphitheatres -are wholly destitute of: and this purpose is so much regarded, that, -if we consider it with a scrupulous eye, we shall find that the -western side of this upper half of the terrace and the pavilion there -is somewhat broader, and nearer the upper end of the long diameter, -than the eastern. In the midway of the terrace between the pavilions -on both sides and the _cavea_, are still to be seen two round holes, -which seem to be places where they set poles to oppose against those -others leaning on the out-side that bear the sail-cloths. The section -or profile of this work is contrived with exquisite judgement in -proportioning its parts; for the eye of a man standing at the most -retired part of the terrace next the parapet is in the right line of -the declivity within side; of a man standing in the middle of it, his -eye sees the heads of the spectators sitting under him on the upper -_subsellia_, even with the line of the circular walk; the eye of him -standing on the edge of the terrace, sees the heads of those on the -lowermost _subsellia_, even with the edge of the _podium_, and commands -the whole _area_: therefore we may conclude none were permitted to -stand on the circular walk, for that would have obstructed the sight, -but it was left open for passage. I took notice before, that on both -sides, the terrace at the top of the lower half seemed to me narrower -than that at the other and principal half: whether so originally, and -for sake of any advantage to be had in this respect, and that the -meanest of the people stood here, or that it has happened to have -been more wasted away since, I cannot be positive; but I judged it -not material enough to be regarded in the scheme: for, in the main, I -found the breadth of the side of the work, or solid, taken upon the -ground-plot, is equal to half the longest diameter of the _area_, or a -fourth of the whole longest diameter. Its perpendicular altitude, from -the top of the terrace to the bottom of the _area_, is a fourth of the -longest diameter of the _area_. - -In the middle of each side we may observe a _cuneus_, or parcel of the -seats, of near thirty feet broad, just over the most elevated part of -the circular work, and reaching up to the terrace, which swells out -above the concavity of the whole, and answering to the rising ground -in the middle of the terrace, which we call the pavilions, and have -assigned for the seats of the officers among the soldiery. This is -upon the shortest diameter, and over the _tribunalia_ of the emperor -and prætor; and consequently cuts each side of the upper _series_ of -seats above the circular walk into two equal parts. I have guessed -only at these reasons for it, which I leave to better judgements. One -might possibly be, to give a greater beauty to the range of seats -over the circular walk by its break, which is a thing not practised -at all in other amphitheatres, unless we suppose this effect produced -by their _vomitoria_: or is it not more necessary here, because of -the circular walk, which causes the _series_ of seats above them to -be broader at the extremity than in the middle, and therein different -from the aspect of common amphitheatres? Or was not this division -useful in distinguishing the great length of that _series_ into -separate compartments for two different sort of plebeians? Or is it -necessary to distribute the three orders of people; the senators under -the circular walk to the _podium_, whose place in general was called -_orchestra_; that half of the upper seats on the upper or south side -of this protuberant part, to the equestrian order; that on the lower -or north side, to the people or vulgar? But there seems to be another -likely reason, that every seat here was divided into two (at least some -part of it) in the nature of steps, as was practised in particular -places of all other amphitheatres: and perhaps there were three of -these ranges of steps, one in the middle, and one on each side: that -in the middle was for the officers to ascend from the circular walk to -their tribunals, or tents, set upon the raised part of the terrace, -whilst the common soldiers went up by the ascent over the cave, at the -upper end. The steps on each side led to the respective halves of the -upper _series_ of seats above the circular walk. All which uses to me -appear convenient and necessary for ease, regularity, and decency. -In the upper or south-west half of the internal slope have been some -deformities, caused by the inner edge of the terrace in some places -cut or fallen down, which spoils the curve a little: and, as the -lower terraces diminish gradually from the pavilions to the entrance, -that on the western end has received great damage over and above; for -the inward verge of it has been thrown down intirely: as for that -north-easterly half of the terrace, which we said was narrower, more -exposed to the sun, and for that reason allotted to the last rabble, -we leave them to scramble up with somewhat more labour over the whole -_series_ of the seats at that end, which we may reasonably judge were -last filled by the spectators. - -These noble buildings, which were of a fine invention, and well -calculated for their uses, were most frequently called, from their -hollow figure, _cavea_; of which there are many quotations to be had -out of the old poets, and other writers: and originally it was inherent -to theatres; in which sense commonly used by Cicero and others, but -at length passed chiefly to amphitheatres, as the greater works. The -matter of some was brick, as that near Trajecto in the Campania of -Italy; another at Puteoli; others stone, and others solid marble; as -that famous one at Capua, another at Athens, and that at Verona. The -amphitheatre which is still in part to be seen at Pola in Istria, was -of stone and wood too; for the whole frame of the seats was made of -timber, the portico’s only, or external part, of stone. The wit of man -could not find out a fitter scheme for commodiousness of seeing and -hearing: and in some respect, I conceit, they had an eye to the form -of their harps, fiddles, and such instruments of music, as modulate -sounds in a roundish cavity: the oval turn thereof, and the solidity of -the materials, had all the requisites of receiving and returning the -vibrations of the air to greater advantage. Vitruvius advises, in this -case, that the place, as well as the stuff, wherein these buildings -are set, and of which they are composed, must not be what he calls -_surd_, such as deaden the sound, but make smart repercussions, and in -just space of time; which is of great consequence in the philosophy of -echoes: for if the voice strike upon a solid that is not harmonious -in its texture, that is, whose parts are not of a proper tone or -tenseness, not consentaneous to the vibrations of musical notes; or if -this solid be too near, or too far distant, so that it reverberates -too quick, or too slow, as a room too little, or too great; all the -main business of hearing and sounds is disturbed. Vitruvius is very -large upon this head, to whom I refer the reader. Now I suppose the -ancients learnt by experience and trial, as well as by reasoning -upon the nature of things, that such a capacity and compass, and of -such extent, was best for this end: whence we find, that all their -amphitheatres are much about the same bulk, and executed upon nearly -the same proportions. A thing of this kind deceives the eye without -strict consideration; for it is bigger than it seems, and a person -in the middle of it, to one upon the terrace, looks lesser than one -would imagine. It is true indeed, that ours is not made of so solid -materials as brick, stone or marble; but yet it is possible there may -be as much an error in one extreme as the other, and nature affects -a mediocrity. One shall scarce doubt that a _convallis_, or proper -convexity between two mountains, will give as fine an echo as any -artificial work that can be contrived. I can say, however, in favour -of the subject we are upon, that in effect it has a very fine and -agreeable sound, (as I purposely several times tried) and seems to want -nothing of the compactness of matter, or closeness of the place, though -doubtless much deficient in the original depth, which would improve -it. An echo here is not to be expected, the return being too quick; -but after the voice you hear a ringing, as of a brass pot, or bell; -which shows the proportion well adjusted: and perhaps, if we consider -the great numbers of the stair-cases and openings, or what they call -_vomitoria_, in the other amphitheatres, for the people to come in -and go out at, which are intirely wanting here; we may not be far to -seek for the reason of it, or scruple thinking ours to be the better -model: the sides being perfectly uniform, and free from those frequent -apertures, seem better adapted for the rolling, concentring, and -retorting the voice. It is not unlikely that some may think the great -gap and discontinuity of our entrance an obstacle in the case; but to -such I would propose a _quære_, Whether that single break, which bears -so small a proportion to the whole, in account of those best skilled in -the doctrine of _acoustics_, be not by far more inconsiderable in that -point, than the multiplicity of those other passages which we see in -all drawings of this kind? Or whether again it be not a real advantage -to the sound? as is the hole in the sounding-board of a fiddle, harp, -harpsichord, or the like instrument; or when two holes are made, as -frequently; but, if there were twenty instead thereof, probably it -would be injurious, though of less bulk when all put together. Perhaps -the air intirely pent up in this great hollow, without any collateral -aperture, may be obstructed in the varieties of its necessary motions -and reflections, so as to delight the ear: and I must profess myself -of this opinion, which seems confirmed by Nature’s abhorrence of such -figures, in the constant outlets of valleys some way or other. It is -certain, whatever effect the entrance has as to the sound, it must be -highly useful in cooling the place, in admitting the breezes of the -north-easterly air from over the meadows to refresh them; and the side -of the opposite hill beyond the town, diversified with hedge-grows, -presents a beautiful scene to the better spectators: nor is the present -town deficient in contributing to the landscape: for, as you advance -from the _arena_ toward the entrance, the two handsome towers of the -churches appear very agreeably at each cheek of the entrance. - -But we have reason to content ourselves with the plain matter of -fact, and need not enter into a dispute, whether necessity or choice -determined the Romans here to use the present materials, or whether the -entrance was originally of the manner we see it: it is certain, that in -all the places where I have seen these amphitheatres, the Roman walls -that incompassed the towns are still left, built with ranges of brick, -stone, flint, and indissoluble mortar; so that ignorance of building -cannot be laid to their charge. Nor is this practice wholly confined -to our island, and without parallel; for there is now in France an -amphitheatre, not improperly to be reckoned of this sort, whereof -Lipsius gives us a large account: it is at a place called Doveon, near -Pont du sey, upon the river Loire, as you go from Anjou to Poictou; a -place where the Druids are said to have had a seat: this is cut out of -a mountain of stone, but of a very soft kind, and, I suppose, not much -better than our chalk: it is not near so big as ours, and much inferior -in beauty and convenience: here are chambers hewn out of the rock for -the caves; and the _area_ is but very small. The seats of the theatre -of Bacchus at Athens are still visible, cut out of the natural rock. -It is not much to be doubted, that in many places in France, and other -provinces of the Roman empire, where the same chalk is the soil, there -are such as ours, though as little regarded: and we may reasonably -think, in the beginning of the commonwealth, before art, luxury, and -magnificence had got to its highest pitch, that the Romans themselves -were contented with such of grassy turf. The people of Rome originally -stood at the games. Cicero, _de Amicit._ c. 7. says, _stantes -plaudebant in re ficta_. So Tac. _Annal._ XIV. 20. “If you look back -to customs of antiquity, the people stood at the shows; for if they -had been accommodated with seats, they would have idled the whole day -away at the theatre.” Valer. Max. XI. 4. says, “it was ordered by the -senate, that no one should set benches for shows in the city, nor -within a mile of it, or should see the games sitting, that the manly -posture of standing, the peculiar note of the Roman nation, should be -observed even at diversions.” If any one had rather think, that ours -never had any seats, but that the people stood upon the plain grassy -declivity, I shall not be averse to it, and the rather because it is -your lordship’s opinion: yet it seemed to me, viewing the sides very -curiously, when the sun shone upon them with a proper light and shade, -that I could see the very marks of the poles that lay upon the slopes, -whereon the benches were fastened. Ovid, _de arte amandi_, speaking of -theatres, says the seats were turf. - - _In gradibus sedet populus de cespite factis, - Qualibet hirsutas fronde tegente comas._ - - On grassy seats of turf the people sate, - And leaves of trees Thessalic caps supply. - -This of ours seems to be a better method than that in the amphitheatre -at Pola; and, if it is readily owned much inferior to those at Rome, -yet even those were exceeded by the noble Greek architects, especially -by that most admirable theatre near the temple of Æsculapius in -Epidaurus, of which Pausanias, an eye-witness of both, speaks _in -argolicis_: “for, though it is not so big as some others, yet for the -art of it, the nicety of its constituents, and for beauty, who dare -contend with Polycletus, who was the architect of it?” says he. - -As it is not my intent to write a complete history of amphitheatres, -or further than what is necessary to our present purpose, and to give -a clear understanding of our work; so I forbear saying any thing of -the manners, times, qualities, and circumstances, of the games here -practised, but suppose them much the same in all points with those used -at Rome, and other places, and with suitable grandeur and magnificence; -whether in relation to hunting or fighting of wild beasts, of the same -or different kinds, with one another, or with men; of the gladiators, -wrestlings, of the pageants called by the ancients _pegmata_, whence -our word seems derived; of the showers of saffron water to refresh -the spectators; of the gods these places were dedicated to, and their -festivals: the whole of these matters, by those that have a mind to -make themselves acquainted therewith, is best learnt from authors who -have largely and professedly handled the subject; such as the learned -Lipsius before quoted, Donatus, and many more Pitiscus will inform -us of in his Lexicon. It is not to be questioned, that the Romans, -who had so firmly settled themselves here for the space of 400 years, -were for elegance and politeness much upon the level with those of the -continent. But amongst other shows and diversions of beasts, we may -safely imagine that our British bull-dogs bore a part, since the Romans -brought them up for the use of the Italian amphitheatres. Claudian -speaks of them thus, - - _Magnaque taurorum fracturi colla Britanni._ - -But see a large and learned account of them from ancient authors in Mr. -Camden’s _Britannia_, Hampshire, pag. 119. - -I shall give the reader a plain calculation of the number of people, -that might commodiously be present at the solemn sports and diversions, -made generally upon holy-days and great festivities of their gods. -The people hereabouts told me, that once they executed a woman for -petit-treason, in the middle of the _area_, by burning; which brought -all the country round to the sight, and filled the whole place: they by -a gross guess supposed there might be 10,000. But if we allow a foot -and half for each person sitting, and the number of seats, as I have -delineated it, 24; then one side of the building spread _in plano_ will -form a conic _frustrum_ 440 feet long at top, 280 at bottom; taking the -medium number 360, multiplying it by 24, it gives us 8640 feet; from -which take off a fourth part, to reduce it to single places of a foot -and half, there remain 6480 places on one half of the amphitheatre; -double this for the other side, and you produce 12,960 single places -for spectators upon the whole range of seats. For fear of exceeding the -truth, I omit all that might occasionally stand on the terrace at top, -the ascent up to it, and on the entrance. - -It would be vain to talk of the exact time, or the persons concerned -in building this amphitheatre: but my friend Mr. Pownall of Lincoln, -before spoken of, has a silver coin of Philippus, ploughed up in the -very place. _imp. m. jul. philippus aug._ ℞ _lætit. fundat._ a Genius -with a garland in his right, the helm of a ship in his left hand: the -legend of the reverse, I must own, seems strongly to intimate he made -or repaired this work, or that some solemn sports were here performed -in his time; notwithstanding his melancholy and cynical nature, which -Sext. Aurelius gives us an account of, or that he was a christian. He -reigned about A. D. 240. yet I chuse to think it is of a higher date. -Tacitus tells us, so early as the time of Agricola in Titus his reign, -they began to introduce luxury among the Britons; for he exhorted -them privately, and publicly assisted them, to build temples, places -of public resort, and fine houses; and by degrees they came to those -excitements to debauchery, portico’s, baths, and the like, of which -we frequently find the ruins. Therefore we may suppose amphitheatres -were not forgotton; and probably this was not later than that time, -so near the southern coast, (which among the Britons themselves was -the most civilised) so rich and fine a country: for Titus his father -Vespasian, partly under Claudius the emperor, and partly under Aulus -Plautius his lieutenant, conquered all the parts hereabouts (as we -mentioned in the beginning of this letter) where he fought the Britons -thirty times, subdued two of their most potent nations, took above -twenty of their towns, and the whole Isle of Wight. No doubt but the -people, inhabitants of this country, the _Durotriges_, and the town of -Dorchester, _Durnovaria_, were included in his conquests; and they, -whatever reign it was in, for their entertainment, erected this noble -work; of which, in comparison of our modern bear-gardens, and places of -prize-fighting, I shall venture to give it as my sentiment, - - _Hunc homines dicant, hos statuisse feras._ - - 7 Nov. 1723. - - - - - ITER SEPTIMUM ANTONINI AUG. VII. - - _Adde tot egregias urbes, operumque laborem. - Tot congesta manu præruptis oppida saxis, - Fluminaque antiquos subterlabentia muros._ +Virg. Geor. II.+ - - - _To_ ROGER GALE, _Esq_; - -The reasons I have to address the following journey to you, are -both general and particular: of the first sort, the title affixed -to it could not but put me in mind of your claim to these kind of -disquisitions from any hand, whose excellent commentary on Antoninus’s -Itinerary has deservedly given you the palm of ancient learning, and -rendered your character classic among the chief restorers of the Roman -Britain. But I am apprehensive it will be easier to make these papers -of mine acceptable to the world, than to yourself, both as the most -valuable part of them is your own, and as I purpose by it to remind -you of favouring the public with a new edition of that work, to which -I know you have made great additions; and in this I am sure they will -join with me. The honour you have indulged me of a long friendship, -the pleasure and advantage I have reaped in travelling with you, and -especially a great part of this journey, are particular reasons, or -rather a debt from myself and the world, if any thing of antique -inquiries I can produce that are not illaudable, if what time I spend -in travelling, may not be wholly a hunting after fresh air with the -vulgar citizens, but an examination into the works of nature, and of -past ages. I have no fears, that aught here will be less acceptable to -you, because perhaps in some things I may differ from your sentiments: -the sweetness of your disposition, and your great judgement, I know, -will discern and applaud what is really just, and excuse the errors: -difference of opinions, though false, is often of great service in -furthering a discovery of the truth: to think for one’s self is the -prerogative of learning; and no one, but a tyrant in books, will -persecute another for it. It is certain, Antoninus his Itinerary is an -endless fund of inquiry. I doubt not but in future researches I shall -be induced as much to vary from myself as now from others; and, after -our best endeavours, succeeding writers will correct us all. - -[Sidenote: +Via Trinovantica.+] - -The last summer I travelled this whole Seventh Journey, and in the -order of the Itinerary; but I took in several other places by the way, -which relate to the clearing some parts of other journeys. Parallel to -the great Icening-street, runs another Roman road from south-west to -north-east, through London, beginning at the sea-coast in Hampshire by -Rumsey, and ending at the sea-coast in Suffolk about Aldborough. The -name of it is utterly lost: if I might have the liberty of assigning -one, it should be _via Trinovantica_, as it tends to the country of -those people; and names are necessary to avoid confusion. The lower -part of it, or that comprehended between London and Ringwood upon the -edge of Dorsetshire, is the subject of this journey; but because I have -already given an account of several towns that relate to the XIIIth -and XIVth journeys of Antoninus, which have some connexion with this, -and that I conceive they are considerably faulty in the original, I -shall run through some few more I had opportunity to see, and offer my -conjectures towards the restitution of those journeys. - -Upon the great moor between Bagshot and Okingham, near East-Hamsted -park, we saw a large camp upon a hill doubly ditched, commonly called -Cæsar’s camp, as many more without any reason: there has been a well -in it, and both Roman and British coins have been found there, one of -Cunobelin in silver: its figure is not regular, but conformable to the -top of the hill: near it are two large barrows, Ambury and Edgebury. -At Berkham by Okingham I bought a very elegant British coin of gold, -dug up by a woman in her garden: it is of the most ancient kind, and -without letters. I saw a British gold coin found near Old Windsor; -another dug up, 1719, at Hanmer hill, between Guildford and Farnham. - -[Sidenote: +Vindoma.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. LXI.] - -All the country hereabouts, and to Silchester, is clay, moor, sand, -gravel by spots, much boggy, springy land, much good land, but more -bad: the water is blackish every where. Silchester is a place that -a lover of antiquity will visit with great delight: it stands upon -the highest ground thereabouts, but hid with wood, which grows very -plentifully all about it. Many were the Roman roads that met here, -though now scarce any road; which is the reason it is so little known: -it is likewise inconvenient for travellers, because no inns are near -it; and it may be serviceable to tell the curious, that Aldermaston is -the nearest town where lodging is to be found, three miles off; for at -the place we may truly say, - - _Rarus & antiquis habitator in urbibus errat._ - -The walls of this city are standing, more or less perfect, quite -round; perhaps the most intire of any in the Roman empire, especially -the whole north side of the wall, which is a most agreeable sight. -The composition is chiefly flint for the space of four foot high, -then a binding of three layers of rag-stone laid flat: in many places -five of these double intervals remain for a great length. There was -a broad ditch quite round, and now for the most part impassable, and -full of springs. Here and there Roman bricks are left in the walls. -Though on the out-side they are of this considerable height, yet the -ground within is so raised as nearly to be equal to the top, and that -quite round crowned with oaks and other timber-trees of no mean bulk, -and which Mr. Camden takes notice of in his time. Not long since, -lady Blessington cut 500l. worth of timber from thence. Gildas says, -Constantius the son of Constantine the Great built it, and sowed corn -in the track of the walls, as an omen of their perpetuity:[135] indeed, -now the whole city is arable; and among the fields Roman bricks, bits -of pots, rubbish of buildings, are scattered every where, and coins -are picked up every day. It is a parallelogram whose shortest side -to the longest is as 3 to 4; its length about 2600 feet, its breadth -2000; standing conformable to the four cardinal points: it had two -gates upon its length opposite. There is only one farm-house within -it, and the church. To the east, by that house, the foundation of -the gate is visible, and several Roman bricks thereabouts. All the -yards here are like a solid rock, with rubbish, pavements and mortar, -cemented together. The late Rev. Mr. Betham, minister of this place, -a learned, curious and worthy person, had collected a vast number of -coins and antiquities found here: he is buried under the north wall -of the chancel without side: within is another monument of a person -of quality: it is remarkable that a wall only divides them in their -graves, who both met a sad and disastrous fate at different times -in the same place, being drowned in Fleet-ditch. Onion-hole, in the -middle of the southern wall, is a place much talked of here by the -ignorant country people, which is only an arch in the foundation for -the issue of a sewer: they have a like story here of this city being -taken by sparrows. I saw a silver coin of Philippus, and a brass one -of Constantine, and many more. A spring arises from under the wall at -the church-yard. The streets are still visible in the corn. Rings with -stones in them are often found, among inscriptions and all sorts of -other antiquities. - -[Sidenote: +Amphitheatre.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XLIII. 2d Vol.] - -Five hundred foot without the city, on the north-east corner I espied -another great curiosity, which the people think was a castle: I -presently discerned it to be an amphitheatre: it is in bulk, in shape, -and all points, the same as that at Dorchester, but not built of so -solid materials; for it is chiefly clay and gravel: it stands in a -yard by the road side, near a ruinous house and barn, upon a sloping -piece of ground: eastward toward the road there is a pit: there it is -sixty foot high on the out-side. The whole _area_ or _arena_ within -is now covered with water, but they say it is not much above three -foot deep: the bottom of it, and the work, must certainly be exceeding -solid, and well compared, to retain the water so many years without -draining through: it is a most noble and beautiful concave, but -intirely over-grown with thorn-bushes, briars, holly, broom, furze, -oak and ash trees, &c. and has from times immemorial been a yard for -cattle, and a watering-pond; so that it is a wonder their trampling has -not defaced it much more. I examined this fine antiquity with all the -exactness possible: the terrace at top, the circular walk, the whole -form, is not obscure: it is posited exactly as that before described, -with its longest diameter from north-east to south-west; its entrance -north-east, though farthest from the city. There is an ascent to it -from the entrance side, that being upon the lowest ground: at the -upper end, the level of the ground is not much below the top of the -terrace, and vastly above that of the _arena_; so that I conceive the -better sort of the people went that way directly from the city into -their seats: there is such a gap too in that part, from the ruin of -the cave where the wild beasts were kept. An old house standing there -with an orchard has forwarded its ruin from that quarter; and they -have levelled some part of the terrace for their garden. Surveying the -whole could not but put me in mind of that piece of Roman magnificence, -when the emperors caused great trees to be taken up by the roots, and -planted in the amphitheatres and circs, _pro tempore_, to imitate -forests wherein they hunted beasts; which here is presented in pure -nature. - -[Sidenote: _Barrows_ Br.] - -Riding along the road on the north side of Silchester, I left it with -this reflection: Now a person of a moderate fortune may buy a whole -Roman city, which once half a kingdom could not do; and a gentleman may -be lord of the soil where formerly princes and emperors commanded. To -the west of the place, but at some distance, runs a high bank overgrown -with trees seemingly north and south: they say there is another -such, south of the city: which would make one suspect they were raised -by some besiegers. Farther on I crossed a great Roman road coming -from Winchester: they call it Long-bank and Grimesdike. I have very -often found this name applied to a road, a wall, a ditch of antiquity; -which would make one fancy it is a Saxon word signifying the witches -work; for the vulgar generally think these extraordinary works made by -help of the devil. They told me it goes through Burfield and Reading. -Towards Winchester I could see it as far as the horizon, perfectly -strait, ten miles off. We may say with the poet, - - _Tellus in longas est patefacta vias._ +Tibull.+ - -Near it they talk of a stone thrown by an imp from Silchester walls, a -mile off, which I suppose a mile-stone. Mr. Camden says a Roman road -runs westward from Silchester, which I imagine goes to Andover. From -Aldermaston is a fine view of the country hanging over the Kennet, -lately made navigable. Going from Aldermaston to Kingsclere, where once -was a palace of the Saxon kings, I passed over Brimpton common: here -are many very fine Celtic barrows: the soil is a moor full of _erica_, -which they dig up for fewel; underneath it is sand: at Kingsclere the -mighty chalk-hills begin. Upon the top of a very high promontory is a -square Roman camp, in a park. From hence to Andover is an hard way and -open country. Just before I descended the continuation of this great -ridge of hills overlooking Andover, I crossed a ditch like Wansditch, -hanging upon the edge of the hills, which I suppose some division -among the ancient Britons: it extended itself both ways as far as I -could see: the foss is not very large, though the bank is: the foss is -northward. - -[Illustration: 43·2ᵈ. _The Side view of the_ Amphitheater _at - Silchester. May 8. 1724._ - -_Stukeley delin._ _E. Kirkall sculp._] - -[Sidenote: +Andaoreon.+] - -[Sidenote: +Bury-hill+ Ro. _Camp_.] - -Andover is (not to be questioned) the _Andaoreon_ of Ravennas: the name -signifies the watery habitation; _annedh_, habitatio; _dur_, aqua. It -stands on the slope of a hill just by the springs of the river Tees, or -_t’isca_: they arise here northward of the town very plentiful, and are -carried in a thousand rills through all the meadows, till they unite -and pass under the bridge. The church is an aukward old building; the -west door, of an ancient circular make. They are now pulling down the -timber market-house to build a new one of stone: the market-place is a -broad street. Upon a very high hill to the south-west is a large Roman -camp, seeming to be admirably well fortified: it is called Bury hill. -Between this and Stockbridge is Dunbury hill, a circular camp, doubly -intrenched with various works at the entrance. - -I travelled along a fine downy country, ’till passing the river Bourn -in Wiltshire I came to the Icening-street near Haradon hill; where I -intended to observe the great eclipse of the sun, which was to be on -the next day; of which memorable _phænomenon_ I judge it will not be -disagreeable if I repeat what I wrote of it. - - - To Dr. _Edmund Halley_. - -According to my promise, I send you what I observed of the solar -eclipse, though I fear it will not be of any great use to you. I was -not prepared with any instruments for measuring time, or the like, -and proposed to myself only to watch all the appearances that Nature -would present to the naked eye on so remarkable an occasion, and which -generally are overlooked, or but grosly regarded. I chose for my -station a place called Haradon hill, two miles eastward from Amsbury, -and full east from the opening of Stonehenge avenue, to which it is as -the point of view. Before me lay the vast plain where that celebrated -work stands, and I knew that the eclipse would appear directly over -it: beside, I had the advantage of a very extensive prospect every -way, this being the highest hill hereabouts, and nearest the middle of -the shadow. Full west of me, and beyond Stonehenge, is a pretty copped -hill, like the top of a cone lifting itself above the horizon: this is -Clay hill, near Warminster, twenty miles distant, and near the central -line of darkness, which must come from thence; so that I could have -notice enough before-hand of its approach. Abraham Sturgis and Stephen -Ewens, both of this place and sensible men, were with me. Though it was -very cloudy, yet now and then we had gleams of sun-shine, rather more -than I could perceive at any other place around us. These two persons -looking through smoaked glasses, while I was taking some bearings -of the country with a circumferentor, both confidently affirmed the -eclipse was begun; when by my watch I found it just half an hour after -five: and accordingly from thence the progress of it was visible, -and very often to the naked eye; the thin clouds doing the office of -glasses. From the time of the sun’s body being half covered, there was -a very conspicuous circular _iris_ round the sun, with perfect colours. -On all sides we beheld the shepherds hurrying their flocks into fold, -the darkness coming on; for they expected nothing less than a total -eclipse, for an hour and a quarter. - -When the sun looked very sharp, like a new moon, the sky was pretty -clear in that spot: but soon after a thicker cloud covered it; at -which time the _iris_ vanished, the copped hill before mentioned grew -very dark, together with the horizon on both sides, that is, to the -north and south, and looked blue; just as it appears in the east at -the declension of day: we had scarce time to tell ten, when Salisbury -steeple, six mile off southward, became very black; the copped hill -quite lost, and a most gloomy night with full career came upon us. At -this instant we lost sight of the sun, whose place among the clouds -was hitherto sufficiently distinguishable, but now not the least trace -of it to be found, no more than if really absent: then I saw by my -watch, though with difficulty, and only by help of some light from -the northern quarter, that it was six hours thirty-five minutes: just -before this the whole compass of the heavens and earth looked of a -lurid complexion, properly speaking, for it was black and blue; only -on the earth upon the horizon the blue prevailed. There was likewise -in the heavens among the clouds much green interspersed; so that the -whole appearance was really very dreadful, and as symptoms of sickening -nature. - -Now I perceived us involved in total darkness, and palpable, as I may -aptly call it: though it came quick, yet I was so intent that I could -perceive its steps, and feel it as it were drop upon us, and fall on -the right shoulder (we looking westward) like a great dark mantle, or -coverlet of a bed, thrown over us, or like the drawing of a curtain on -that side: and the horses we held in our hands were very sensible of -it, and crouded close to us, startling with great surprise. As much -as I could see of the men’s faces that stood by me, had a horrible -aspect. At this instant I looked around me, not without exclamations of -admiration, and could discern colours in the heavens; but the earth had -lost its blue, and was wholly black. For some time, among the clouds, -there were visible streaks of rays, tending to the place of the sun as -their centre; but immediately after, the whole appearance of the -earth and sky was intirely black. Of all things I ever saw in my life, -or can by imagination fancy, it was a sight the most tremendous. - -[Illustration: _The appearance of the_ Total Solar eclipse _from - Haradon hill May 11, 1724_. - - _Stukeley del._ _E Kirkhall Sculp._] - -Toward the north-west, whence the eclipse came, I could not in the -least find any distinction in the horizon between heaven and earth, for -a good breadth, of about sixty degrees or more; nor the town of Amsbury -underneath us, nor scarce the ground we trod on. I turned myself round -several times during this total darkness, and remarked at a good -distance from the west on both sides, that is, to the north and south, -the horizon very perfect; the earth being black, the lower part of -the heavens light: for the darkness above hung over us like a canopy, -almost reaching the horizon in those parts, or as if made with skirts -of a lighter colour; so that the upper edges of all the hills were as a -black line, and I knew them very distinctly by their shape or profile: -and northward I saw perfectly, that the interval of light and darkness -in the horizon was between Martinsal hill and St. Ann’s hill; but -southward it was more indefinite. I do not mean that the verge of the -shadow passed between those hills, which were but twelve miles distant -from us: but so far I could distinguish the horizon; beyond it, not -at all. The reason of it is this: the elevation of ground I was upon -gave me an opportunity of seeing the light of the heavens beyond the -shadow: nevertheless this verge of light looked of a dead, yellowish -and greenish colour: it was broader to the north than south, but the -southern was of a tawny colour. At this time, behind us or eastward -toward London, it was dark too, where otherwise I could see the hills -beyond Andover; for the foremost end of the shadow was past thither: so -that the whole horizon was now divided into four parts of unequal bulk -and degrees of light and dark: the part to the north-west, broadest -and blackest; to the south-west, lightest and longest. All the change -I could perceive during the totality, was that the horizon by degrees -drew into two parts, light and dark; the northern hemisphere growing -still longer, lighter, and broader, and the two opposite dark parts -uniting into one, and swallowing up the southern enlightened part. - -As at the beginning the shade came feelingly upon our right shoulders, -so now the light from the north, where it opened as it were: though -I could discern no defined light or shade upon the earth that way, -which I earnestly watched for; yet it was manifestly by degrees, and -with oscillations, going back a little, and quickly advancing further; -till at length upon the first lucid point appearing in the heavens, -where the sun was, I could distinguish pretty plainly a rim of light -running along-side of us a good while together, or sweeping by at our -elbows from west to east. Just then, having good reason to suppose the -totality ended with us, I looked on my watch, and found it to be full -three minutes and a half more: now the hill-tops changed their black -into blue again, and I could distinguish a horizon where the centre -of darkness was before: the men cried out, they saw the copped hill -again, which they had eagerly looked for: but still it continued dark -to the south-east; yet I cannot say that ever the horizon that way was -undistinguishable: immediately we heard the larks chirping and singing -very briskly for joy of the restored luminary, after all things had -been hushed into a most profound and universal silence: the heavens and -earth now appeared exactly like morning before sun-rise, of a greyish -cast, but rather more blue interspersed; and the earth, as far as the -verge of the hill reached, was of a dark green or russet colour. - -As soon as the sun emerged, the clouds grew thicker, and the light was -very little amended for a minute or more, like a cloudy morning slowly -advancing. After about the middle of the totality, and so after the -emersion of the sun, we saw Venus very plainly, but no other star. -Salisbury steeple now appeared. The clouds never removed, so that we -could take no account of it afterward, but in the evening it lightened -very much. I hasted home to write this letter; and the impression was -so vivid upon my mind, that I am sure I could, for some days after, -have wrote the same account of it, and very precisely. After supper I -made a drawing of it from my imagination, upon the same paper I had -taken a prospect of the country before. - -I must confess to you, that I was (I believe) the only person in -England that regretted not the cloudiness of the day, which added so -much to the solemnity of the sight, and which imcomparably exceeded, -in my apprehension, that of 1715, which I saw very perfectly from the -top of Boston steeple in Lincolnshire, where the air was very clear: -but the night of this was more complete and dreadful. There indeed -I saw both sides of the shadow come from a great distance, and pass -beyond us to a great distance; but this eclipse had much more of -variety and majestic terror: so that I cannot but felicitate myself -upon the opportunity of seeing these two rare accidents of nature, in -so different a manner: yet I should willingly have lost this pleasure -for your more valuable advantage of perfecting the noble theory of -the celestial bodies, which last time you gave the world so nice a -calculation of; and wish the sky had now as much favoured us for an -addition to your honour and great skill, which I doubt not to be as -exact in this as before. - - _Ambsbury, Wilts, May 10, 1724._ - -Return we to matters of antiquity. Upon this very hill-top are great -pits dug lately by order of my lord Charlton for clay, which they find -here of a very stiff sort, by nature let in like veins among clefts of -the solid chalk: the workmen here, whilst they have been busy in taking -it up, have found many Romans coins, silver and brass, some very deep -in the earth, as they say; several of which I have now by me. I saw -likewise a very fair gold _Constantius_; the reverse, two Genii holding -a shield, _vot._ xxx. _victoria Augg._ It seems as if the Romans, with -their wonted sagacity, had been occupied here in the same way, to make -pottery ware, and not neglected to leave proof of it according to their -method. I took notice likewise of one side of the summit being covered -with oyster-shells loose upon the surface; and how they came there I -could get no information. - -[Sidenote: +Icening-street.+] - -[Sidenote: +Sorbiodunum.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. LXV.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. LXVI.] - -[Sidenote: Roman _way_.] - -[Sidenote: +Brige.+] - -The Icening-street runs between this hill and the Bourn river, coming -from Newberry, as I suppose, through Chute forest, where vulgarly -called Chute causeway: at Lurgishal it makes a fine terrace-walk in -the garden of Sir Philip Medows; then passes the Bourn river about -Tudworth, and so by this place to the eastern gate of Old Sarum, the -Roman _Sorbiodunum_, where it runs most precisely north-east and -south-west, as we said before. This city is perfectly round, and -formed upon one of the most elegant designs one can imagine: probably -a fortress of the old Britons, and I fancy somewhat like the famous -Alesia in Gaul, memorable for the ancient Hercules, its founder, and -for the siege of the great Cæsar; which only his genius could have -taken in his circumstances. The prospect of this place is at present -very august, and would have afforded us a most noble sight when in -perfection: such a one will not be difficult to conceive when we have -described it. It fills up the summit of a high and steep hill, which -originally rose equally on all sides to an _apex_: the whole work is -1600 foot diameter, included in a ditch of a prodigious depth: -it is so contrived that in effect it has two ramparts, the inner and -outer, the ditch between: upon the inner, which is much the higher, -stood a strong wall of twelve foot thick, their usual standard, which -afforded a parapet at top for the defendants, with battlements quite -round: upon still higher ground is another deep circular ditch, of 500 -foot diameter; this is the castle or citadel. Upon the inner rampire of -this was likewise another wall, I suppose of like thickness: so that -between the inner ditch and the outer wall, all around, was the city. -This is divided into equal parts by a meridian line: both the banks are -still left; one to the south, the other to the north; and these had -walls upon them too: the traces of all the walls are still manifest, -and some parts of them left; but we may say with the poet of the whole, - - ————_lapsis ingentia muris - Saxa jacent, nulloque domus custode tenetur._ +Lucan. I.+ - -In the middle of each half, toward the east and west, is a gate, -with each a lunette before it, deeply ditched, and two oblique -entries; that to the east is square, to the west round: the hollow -where the wall stood is visible quite round, though the materials -are well-nigh carried away to New Sarum: in every quarter were two -towers, the foundations plainly appearing: then, with those that -were upon the cardinal points, the gates and the median rampart, as -it must necessarily be understood, there were twelve in the whole -circumference; so that, supposing it about 5000 feet in circumference, -there was a tower at every 400. Hence we may imagine the nature of -the city was thus: a circular street went round in the middle between -the inner and outer fortifications, concentric to the whole work; and -that cross streets, like _radii_, fronted each tower: then there were -twenty-four islets of building for houses, temples, or the like. Now -such is the design of this place, that if one half was taken by an -enemy, the other would still be defensible; and at last they might -retire into the castle. The city is now ploughed over, and not one -house left. In the angle to the north-west stood the cathedral and -episcopal palace: the foundations are at present so conspicuous, that -I could easily mark out the ground-plot of it, as in the 65th plate: -near it is a large piece of the wall left, made of hewn stone with -holes quite through at equal spaces. One would imagine the Romans, in -laying down the _area_ of this city, had Plato’s rules in view,[136] -in his fifth dialogue of laws. Many wells have been filled up, and, -no doubt, with noble reliques of antiquity: they must have been very -deep, and especially that in the castle, and dug out of the solid -chalk. Of the castle-wall a good deal of huge fragments and foundations -are left: a double winding stair-case led up to the gate, where bits -of arch-work and immense strength of stone and mortar remains; and -within, many foundations and traces of buildings. In the north-east -corner of the city there is another rampart upon a _radius_, including -a squarish piece of ground; probably for some public edifice, but what -in particular, is now hard to say. Certainly, for strength, air, and -prospect over the lovely downs, and for salubrity, this place was well -calculated, and impregnable to any thing but death and hunger. The -river Avon runs near the bottom of the hill. The history of its glory, -its strange vicissitudes, and its ruin by removal of the church to -New Sarum, may be learnt from Camden, Burton, and other authors; my -business being chiefly to describe things: but the very sight of such a -carcass would naturally from a traveller extort such an expostulation: -Is this the ancient episcopal see, and the seat of warlike men, now -become corn-fields, and pasture for sheep? Is this the place where -synods have been held, and British parliaments; where all the states of -the kingdom were summoned to swear fealty to William the Conqueror; the -palace of the most potent British and Saxon kings, and Roman emperors? -and conclude with Rutilius, - - _Non indignemur mortalia corpora solvi, - Cernimus exemplis oppida posse mori._ - - Nor grieve at our own fate, since here we see - That towns themselves must die as well as we. - -Before the eastern gate of _Sorbiodunum_, a branch of the Roman way -proceeds eastward to Winchester, which has never yet been observed: -upon this goes part of the XVth imperial journey in these words; _Venta -Belgarum, Brige, Sorbiodunum_. This way passes the river Bourn at -Ford: the ridge of it is plain, though the countrymen have attacked -it vigorously on both sides with their ploughs: we caught them at the -sacrilegious work, and reprehended them for it: then it goes between -Clarendon park, and the camp of Chlorus before described: on the whole -length of Farley common it is very conspicuous, made of hard matter dug -up all along on both sides; then ascends the hills at Winterslow, which -signifies the white hill; then through Buckholt forest, where with -good heed the course of it may be followed, though through by-ways, -pastures, woods and hedges; sometimes running the length, sometimes -crossing it: a little northward of West Titherley it goes close by a -farm-house and large barn upon a rising ground, and at the edge of a -wood. This is the proper distance of eight miles from _Sorbiodunum_, -and was the ancient Brige; and Roman antiquities are often found here: -the British name imports a town upon the top of the hill; _brege_, -cacumen. - - _Nunc situs informis premit & deserta vetustas._ +Hor.+ - -All this country being part of the Conqueror’s new forest, this colony -of the Romans shared in that great depopulation he made for his -diversion. It is near the brink of that woody hill, called Horseshoe -wood from its being upon a hill, overlooking Broughton upon the river -Wallop, where Mr. Camden places the Brige. A little way farther upon -the same brink, on an _apex_ of the hill, stands a large Celtic barrow, -ditched about, called Bols turret:[137] there are several other barrows -thereabouts, and probably some Roman; for the Roman road, here called -the Cause-way, proceeds upon this edge to the river at Bossington, -though sometimes intercepted by corn-fields, where the common road -goes about, and then falls into it again: it passes over the river at -Bossington, then marches directly to Winchester west gate. - -[Illustration: 65 SORBIODVNVM. - _1. Aug. 1722._ - - _The View._ - - _The Ichnography._ - - _The Section._ - - Antiquæ Urbis Cadaver in Æs transtulit Joħes Pine Chalcographus. - - _Stukeley designavit._] - -[Illustration: 66 _Prospect of_ Old Sarum _Aug. 1. 1723._ - - A. _Stratford_ B. _the Icening Street_. - - _Stukeley del_] - -[Illustration: 75·2ᵈ. MARCVS MODIVS MEDICVS. _In Marmore_ - -_Apud Illustrissimum Comitem_ Penbrokiæ, In Villa Carviliana._ - - _Stukeley delin:_ _G. Vᵈʳ. Gucht Sculp._] - -[Sidenote: +Wilton.+] - -Having described this road, let us return to _Sorbiodunum_, in order -to pursue the Icening-street: but first give me leave to impart -to the reader somewhat of the pleasure you and I reaped at the -neighbouring Wilton. I shall only at this time give a catalogue of my -lord Pembroke’s most noble collection of ancient marbles, which may -be of use to the curious, in knowing the particulars of that glorious -_Musœum_, or that have a mind to view them. - -The BUSTO’S are in number 133. The STATUES 36. The BASSO RELIEVO’S 15. -MISCELLANIES 9. - -[Sidenote: TAB. CIII. 2d Vol.] - -I. Of the BUSTO’S. 1. Those made with eyes of different matter from -the bust. A Sibyl, the whole cavity of the eyes hollowed: Ariadne, -with agate eyes: A Greek Cupid, with agate eyes: Drusus, Germanicus; -these two are in copper, finely performed, with silver eyes.—2. Learned -persons. Hesiod: Homer, brought from Constantinople, seems by its high -antiquity to have been the first model of the father of the poets: -Sappho, the inimitable in poetry; this is of the ivory marble, the last -perfection of Greek sculpture: Pythagoras: Anacharsis, of an admirable -character: Socrates, by the roguish carver dressed like a Satyr, with -sharp ears: Plato, very ancient, and of a most venerable aspect: -Aristotle: Aristophanes: Apollonius Tyanæus, a most valuable antiquity, -with the right hand and arm: Marcus Modius, an Athenian physician, -of excellent Greek work: Epicurus, a little bust of the great atomic -philosopher: Posidonius, preceptor to Cicero: Sophocles: Aspasia, -who taught Socrates rhetoric: Isocrates: Cato major: Cicero, of -touch-stone: Horace, as some think; a young busto of speckled porphyry; -I am inclined to believe it Ovid: Seneca: Persius the Satyrist: Titus -Livius.—3. Of coloss proportion. Arsinoe mater: Ahenobarbus, the bad -father of the worse Nero: Julia Domna, wife of Severus: Geta when -young, their son.—4. Persons of Greece before the Roman empire: Cecrops -and his wife represented as Janus: Tmolus, a most ancient founder of -a colony: Ganymede, with the Phrygian bonnet, very beautiful: Dido: -Arsinoe filia: Phædra, wife of Theseus: Damas, the learned daughter -of Pythagoras: Olympias, mother of Alexander: Alexander magnus: -Lysimachus: Berenice mater: Berenice filia: Ptolemy, brother to -Cleopatra: Cleopatra, wife to Antipater: Ammonius Alexandrinus, one -of the Olympic victors: Iotape, wife of Antiochus Comagenes king of -Syria.—5. Consular persons: Lucius Junius Brutus, who slew Tarquin: -M. Junius Brutus, who slew Cæsar: P. Cornelius Scipio Africanus: -Scipio Asiaticus: P. Cornelius Scipio Nasica: one of the brothers of -the Horatii: Marcellus: Marius: Sulpicius Rufus: Dolabella: Cneius -Pompeius magnus: Sextus Pompeius.—6. Emperors, Empresses, Cæsars and -Augustæ, beside Geta and Julia Domna already mentioned. Julius Cæsar, -of oriental alabaster, the only original: Augustus: Julia, daughter -to Augustus, incomparably fine: Cajus Cæsar: Lucius Cæsar: Marcellus: -Drusus senior: Germanicus: Agrippina senior: Antonia, of curious -marble: Tiberius, of small brass: Caligula: Cæsonia, wife of Caligula: -Claudius, the conqueror of Britain: Drusilla: Messalina: Nero: Sabina -Poppæa, his wife, a naked busto: Octavia, his wife: Marcia: Galba: -Otho: Vitellius: Lucius Vitellius, brother to the emperor: Vespasian: -Titus: Julia, daughter of Titus: Domitian: Vespasianus novus, the -adopted son of Domitian: Nerva: Trajan: Hadrian: Sabina: Antinous, -Hadrian’s favourite: Antoninus Pius: Faustina senior: M. Aurelius -Antoninus Philosophus: Annius Verus: Lucius Verus: Commodus: Lucilla, -wife of Ælius: Lucilla junior, wife of Verus: Pertinax: Didius -Julianus: Crispina, wife of Commodus: Septimius Severus: Plautilla, -wife of Caracalla: Julia Paula: Macrinus: Annia Faustina, wife of -Heliogabalus: Julia Mammæa, wife of Verus: Julia Moesa: Lucilla junior: -Alexander Severus: Gordianus Cæsar: Balbinus: Sabina Tranquillina, wife -of Antonius Gordianus, emperor: Marcia Otacilla; Q. Herennius, a boy: -Hostilianus: Volusianus: Valerianus, a boy: Constantinus magnus the -Briton, of better work than was commonly in that age, as a few of his -medals were.—7. Divinities. Jupiter: Pallas: Apollo, a fine large bust: -Diana: Venus, like that of Medicis: Bacchus: Faunus: Fauna: Libera: -Libertas: Mercury Pantheon, made of different faces. - -II. STATUES. A queen of the Amazons defending herself from a horseman -in battle: Cupid, a man, breaking his bow: Clio, the muse, sitting: a -Faunus: these are of most admirable workmanship. Five statues reckoned -as ancient as any in the several parts of the world. Egypt, Isis -with her husband Osiris in Theban iron stone. Thrace, Jupiter Ammon -from the temple built by Sesostris, with a ram on his shoulders; it -is a very venerable piece. Asia Minor, Diana of Ephesus; the head, -hands and feet black, the rest of white marble. Phrygia, Cupid tied -to a tree; a Phrygian cap on his head. Lydia, Hercules wrestling -with Achelous. Paris with the Phrygian bonnet and shepherd’s coat of -skins. Saturn with an infant in his arms. The Egyptian Bacchus, of a -fine shape, carrying the young fat Greek Bacchus on his shoulder. A -shepherd playing on the flute. A Greek Bacchus. Flora. Silenus drunk, -with a club in his hand, fancying himself Hercules, supported by a -younger; a piece of most incomparable art. A boy dancing and playing -on music. Cupid holding the golden apple. A young Bacchus smiling. -Marcus Aurelius on horseback, made at Athens, small. The river Meander, -recumbent. A boy in an eager posture, catching at some live thing -on the ground. A coloss Hercules, six Attic cubits high, with three -apples in one hand. Cleopatra giving suck to Cæsarion her son, sitting. -Julia Pia Domna, wife of Septimius Severus, sitting. Livia, the wife -of Augustus, sitting. Manlia Scantilla, sitting. Attys the Phrygian, -engraved by Montfaucon without the head, which is here restored. Mark -Antony, a crocodile at his feet. Apollo. Ceres. Pomona. Andromeda. -Young Hercules with the serpents. Hercules, old, with his club. The -dwarf of Augustus. - -III. BASSO RELIEVO’S. The Story of Niobe, _alto relievo_, very ancient: -there are twenty figures; the marble is 2400 weight; seems to have been -a pannel in some temple of Apollo, or Diana. The story of Meleager, -being the side of a _sarcophagus_, seventeen figures, _mezzo relievo_, -1500 weight, of an admirable taste. Curtius on horseback, leaping into -the gaping cavern, of most excellent work. M. Aurelius and Faustina, -_adversa capita_, fine work. Caracalla, a three-quarters _relievo_. -The three Graces. One on horseback, cutting at a soldier defending -himself under the horse. The ancient manner of eating, Jupiter served -by Hebe: he is accumbent. A frize of a sea-triumph, small figures. -Cleopatra with the asps in a covered vase, _alto relievo_. Part of a -frize from a temple of Neptune, Naiades and Tritons. A _basso_ from a -temple of Bacchus, the _thyrsus_, &c. A _basso relievo_ on porphyry -of Roemitalces king of Thrace. A child stealing fruit from the altar -through a mask. - -IV. MISCELLANIES. A nuptial vase, representing the ceremonies of -marriage. Ara Hammonis, a cube of white marble, on front the symbol of -Jupiter Hammon on a circular piece of the old Theban marble. Two black -porphyry pillars brought from Rome by the earl of Arundel. The column -of Egyptian granite, weighing near 7000 weight, from the ruins of the -temple of Venus genetrix, built by Julius Cæsar: this my lord has set -up in the front of the house. A very ancient altar of Bacchus, adorned -with _basso relievo’s_. An altar table of red Egyptian granite, large, -and four or five inches thick. An antique pavement, four sorts of -marble, of gradual light and shade. The antique picture from the temple -of Juno: it is in thick stucco. The _sarcophagus_ of Epaphroditus -intire, finely carved with the history of Ceres. The front of Claudia’s -sepulchre, sister of Probus the emperor: her head is joined with his. -Eighty-five _termini_ of antique marbles, busto’s on seventy-two of -them. - -[Sidenote: +Icening-street.+] - -From the gate of _Sorbiodunum_ the Icening-street goes from north-east -to south-west, by the name of Port lane, over the river Avon at -Stretford; then ascends the hill, and passes the united Nadre and -Willy near Bemerton, where the stony ford is still very perfect: then -it goes across my lord Pembroke’s horse-race course and hare-warren, -making a visto to M. Aurelius his equestrian figure in the park. If -the spirits and _genii_ of the ancient Romans travel this way, no -doubt they will be surprised to find themselves so near the Capitol. -Then it traverses the brook at Fenny-Stretford, and so along the great -downs toward Cranburn chace: here it delights one to turn and survey -its direction towards _Sorbiodunum_, a sweet prospect; whether we -regard what share of it is due to nature, or what to art; and of the -latter sort, what is owing to the road, or what to the old city. As it -enters the chace there is a most remarkable _diverticulum_, and which -notoriously demonstrates it was begun from the south: for here, as it -came from thence across the woods, where its ridge is very perfect, -made of stone, it butts full upon the end of a vast valley, very deep -and of steep descent; where it was absolutely impracticable to carry -the road on in a strait line: the Roman surveyor therefore wisely gave -way to nature, turned the road side-ways along the end of the valley, -then with an equal angle carried it forward upon the upper side of that -valley in full direction to Old Sarum. That great and wise people, -though ignorant of submission, knew nature might be drawn aside, but -not directly opposed, especially in works that are to be lasting: hence -my intent was, to pursue this noble road as far as it would carry me; -and the pleasure one perceives in such a concomicant is not to be -imagined by any one but those that experience it: to observe their -methods in the conduct of such works, their artifices and struggles -between industry and the difficulties and diversities of ground, of -rivers, &c. and the continual presentment of somewhat worthy of remark -by the way, renders it short, and vastly entertaining; nor is the mind -ever at a loss for learned amusement. When it has passed through the -woods of Cranburn chace, and approaches Woodyates, you see a great -dike and _vallum_ (Venndike) upon the edges of the hills to the left -by Pentridge, to which I suppose it gave name: this crosses the Roman -road, and then passes on the other side, upon the division between -the hundred. The large _vallum_ here is southward, and it runs upon -the northern brink of the hills; whence I conjecture it a division -or fence thrown up by the _Belgæ_ before Cæsar’s time. I call this -the second boundary of the _Belgæ_; two others are already mentioned. -I pleased myself with the hopes of observing the Roman road running -over it, as doubtless it did originally: but just at that instant both -enter a lane, where every thing is disfigured with the wearing away -and reparations that have been made ever since. Its high ridge is then -inclosed within a pasture just at Woodyates, then becomes the common -road for half a mile, but immediately passes forward upon a down, the -road going off to the right. I continued the Roman road for two or -three mile, where it is rarely visited: it is very beautiful, smooth -on both sides, broad at top, the holes remaining whence it was taken, -with a ditch on each hand: it is made of gravel, flint, or such stuff -as happened in the way, most convenient and lasting. There are vast -numbers of Celtic barrows upon these downs, just of such manner and -shapes as those of Salisbury plain: at the first and more considerable -group I came to, there was a most convincing evidence of the Roman -road being made since the barrows: two instances of this nature I gave -in the last letter. One form of these barrows, for distinction sake, -I call Druids (for what reasons I shall not stand here to dispute:) -they are thus. A circle of about 100 foot diameter, more or less, is -inclosed with a ditch of a moderate breadth and depth: on the outside -of this ditch is a proportionate _vallum_; in the centre of this -inclosure is a small tump, where the remains of the person are buried, -sometimes two, sometimes three. Now so it fell out, that the line of -direction of the Roman road necessarily carried it over part of one of -these _tumuli_, and some of the materials of the road are dug out of -it: this has two little tumps in its centre. - -[Sidenote: +Vindogladia.+] - -It was now my business to look out for the station in Antoninus -called _Vindogladia_, mentioned in the last journey to be twelve mile -from _Sorbiodunum_. By this time I was come to a proper distance: -accordingly I found, at the end of this heath, the road which is all -along called Iclingdike, descended a valley where a brook crosses it, -from two villages called Gliffet. At All-Saints, or Lower Gliffet, -there was a small ale-house, and the only one hereabouts (the Rose:) -my old landlady, after some discourse preparatory, informed me that -at Boroston, a mile lower upon the river, had been an old city; and -that strangers had come out of their way on purpose to see it; that -ruins and foundations were there; that it had seven parish-churches, -which were beaten down in the war time; that many old coins had been -ploughed up when she was a girl, which the children commonly played -withal; but the case at present was plainly the same with that of old -Troy, described in the ballad upon her wall, where she showed me these -passionate verses, - - Waste lie those walls that were so good, - And corn now grows where Troy towers stood. - -This account, so natural, satisfied me that _Vindogladia_ must here -be fixed, and Wimbornminster be robbed of that honour, where the tide -of antiquarians have hitherto carried it, for no other reason but -name sake; the distances and road being repugnant. I suppose the name -signifies the white river, or vale; _vint_, white; _gladh_, a river; -whence our glade, or valley where a river runs. This place being not -capable of affording me a proper mansion, I left the more particular -scrutiny of it for another opportunity. - -Hence I pursued the road on the opposite chalk-hill, where they have -dug it away to burn for lime, but much degenerate from Roman mortar in -strength: it was not long before I absolutely lost it in great woods -beyond Long Crechil; but by information I learnt that it passes the -Stour at Crayford bridge below Blandford, where I was obliged to take -up my nightly quarters. I was glad to gain the downy country again -westward of it, and still full of barrows of all sorts by clusters or -groups. I frequently observed on the sides of hills long divisions, -very strait, crossing one another with all kinds of angles: they -look like the balks or meres of ploughed lands, and are really made -of flint over-grown with turf: they are too small for ploughed lands, -unless of the most ancient Britons, who dealt little that way; but just -such like have I seen in what I always imagine British camps. Above the -town of Blandford is an odd intrenchment on a hill, a squarish work, -with others like the foundation of small towers: a barrow near it. - -[Illustration: _A Roman Camp near Bere Regis_ (Ibernium) _Dorsʳ 9 Iun - 1724._ - - _Vol. I. p. 81_ - - _Stukeley delin:_ _E. Kirkall sculp._] - -[Sidenote: +Blandford.+] - -Blandford is a pretty town, pleasantly seated in a flexure of -the river, before charming meadows, and rich lands. Wood thrives -exceedingly here: indeed this country is a fine variety of downs, -woods, lawns, arable, pasture, and rich valleys; and an excellent air: -the dry easterly winds, the cold northern, and the western moisture, -are tempered by the warm southern saline breezes from the ocean, and -nearest the sun. The incredible number of barrows that over-spread -this country from the sea-side to North Wiltshire, persuade me a -great people inhabited here before the _Belgæ_, that came from Spain, -which we may call the _Albionites_: but it is not a time to discourse -of that. This year, wherever I travelled, I found the bloom of the -hedge-rows, and indeed all trees whatever, excessively luxuriant beyond -any thing I ever knew. In this part the _buck-thorn_, or _rhamnus -catharticus_, is very plentiful; and a traveller, if he pleases, may -swallow a dozen of the ripe berries, not without use. Near the passage -of the Icening-street at Crayford is Badbury, a vast Roman camp, where -antiquities have been found. - -[Sidenote: +Wansdike.+] - -[Sidenote: +Ibernium.+] - -[Sidenote: Ro. _Camp_.] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XLV 2d Vol.] - -About three mile beyond this I found another ditch and rampart, which -I believe to be the first of the colony of the _Belgæ_; it has indeed -a rude ancient look; so that they made four of these boundaries -successively as their power enlarged, the last being Wansdike, -between North and South Wiltshire. By what I could see or learn, in -travelling over this intricate country, the Roman road passes upon -a division between Pimpern and Bere hundred to Bere; and that I -reckon a convenient distance for a station between _Vindogladia_ and -Dorchester, being near the middle: on one side it is about thirteen -mile, on the other nine. Now in the last journey of Antoninus before -mentioned, immediately after _Vindogladia_ follows _Durnovaria M. P._ -IX. Dorchester being very truly nine mile off this town Bere, and -which is a market-town too, but far otherwise as to Wimbornminster; I -doubt not but this is the true place designed in the Itinerary; but -that a town is slipped out of the copies. I think I have fortunately -discovered it in the famous Ravennas, by which we may have hopes of -restoring this journey to its original purity. That author mentions -a town next to _Bindogladia_, which he calls _Ibernium_: this verily -is our Bere. Mr. Baxter corrects it into _Ibelnium_, and places it at -Blandford, for no other reason, as I conceive, but because he imagined -it must necessarily be hereabouts. I was not a little pleased when I -found my notion highly confirmed by a great and elegant Roman camp upon -a hill near Bere, I think it is called Woodbury, where a yearly fair -is kept: this is between Bere and Milburn upon the river: it is doubly -intrenched, or rather a double camp one within another. This town of -Bere denominates the hundred too. In this case, where a Roman camp, a -road, and all distances concur, which in the others are very abhorrent -from reality, I imagine the reader will find little difficulty in -passing over to my sentiments. The town is called _Bere Regis_, and the -camp is the _Æstiva_ to the town. Of Dorchester I have spoken already, -beyond which is the original of the Icening-street: from thence I -travelled along the southern coasts, in order to come to the beginning -of this seventh journey. - -[Sidenote: +Moriconium.+] - -Wareham is denominated from the passage or ford over the two rivers -between which it is situate, where now are bridges: this has been a -Roman town. A great square is taken in, with a very high _vallum_ of -earth, and a deep ditch: there has been a castle by the water-side, -west of the bridge, built by William the Conqueror, perhaps upon the -Roman. It is an old corporation, now decayed, the sands obstructing the -passage of vessels; and Pool, being better seated, from a fisher’s town -has rose to be a rich flourishing sea-port, robbing this place. They -say here have been many parish-churches, and a mint. This is probably -the _Moriconium_ of Ravennas, as Mr. Baxter asserts. I heard of Roman -coins being found here. This country is sandy for the most part, as -commonly toward the sea-coasts. I saw a ruinous religious house as I -came by the side of the river Frome. This haven is of a vast extent, -like a sea, having a narrow entry; an indulgent formation of Nature to -her beloved island of Great Britain. I saw vast stones lying loose upon -this sand, in some places, like the Wiltshire grey weathers. It is a -melancholy unpleasant view hereabouts for travellers, when they come -from the other delightful scenes of the better parts of Dorsetshire: -it is moory for the most part, full of ling or heath, as on all the -sea-coasts here, from the chalk-hills in Dorsetshire to those in -Sussex. Two rocks about Corf castle have an odd appearance hence. - -[Sidenote: +Alauna.+] - -[Sidenote: +Bolnelaunium.+] - -Wimburnminster is a small place, of no great trade: a large old church -with two towers; the middle one in the cross very old, and most of -the church before the time of the Conquest: this middle steeple had -a spire which fell down. The river Stour runs a little way south of -the town, through a large bridge; _sdour_, a _sibilus_ put to the old -Celtic word. The river Alen in several divisions runs through the -town, which makes me think it to be the _Alauna_ of Ravennas, put next -to _Bolnelaunium_, which I conjecture to be Christ’s-church by the -sea-side, that being subsequent to _Moriconium_: that it was not Pool, -as Mr. Baxter places it, is plain from a reason just mentioned, Pool -being an upstart. Wimburnminster stands in a large extended fruitful -vale like a meadow, with much wood about it. These rivers abound with -fish. Here was a nunnery built anno 712, by Cuthburga sister to king -Ina. King Etheldred was buried here. - -[Sidenote: +Regnum.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XLVI. 2d Vol.] - -[Sidenote: Br. _oppidum_.] - -From hence I went to Ringwood upon the river Avon, over a deep sandy -moor; which has ever been thought the _Regnum_ in the Itinerary, and -begins the _Iter septimum_ of Antoninus. It is a large thriving place, -full of good new brick houses, seated by the side of a great watery -valley, the river dividing itself into several streams, and frequently -overflowing large quantities of the meadow: it seems well calculated -to have been an old British town: they deal pretty much in leather -here, and woollen manufactures of stockings, druggets, narrow cloth. -Roman discoveries I could make little; but the name and distances seem -to establish the matter: so I hastened through New Forest, where I -found it necessary to steer by the compass, as at sea. They tell us -at Wattonsford the memory of Tyrrel is still preserved, as passing -over there when he unawares shot William Rufus. The soil is sand, -gravel, stone, clay by parcels: these are pleasant solitudes for a -contemplative traveller, did not the intricacies of the roads give one -uneasiness. Here are whole acres of the most beautiful _fox-gloves_ -that one can see, rising upon a strong stem, adorned with numerous -bell-flowers as high as one’s horse. Mr. Baxter has a right notion of -this name, signifying _lemurum manicæ_, from the supposed fairies. -I take these names, and foxes bells, and the like, to be reliques -of the Druids, who did great cures by them; for this is a plant of -powerful qualities, when prudently administered, in a constitution -that will bear it. I observe we derive the names of very many plants -from the old Celtic language, as I believe the Greeks and Latins did -likewise. The king’s house, as called still, was at Lyndhurst: the duke -of Bolton has a hunting-seat thereabouts. I rode through an old camp in -the midst of the forest: it is overgrown with wood, seems to have been -round: at bottom is a spring: no doubt but it is a British _oppidum_. -You may see Southampton from thence. They say the king was killed -hereabouts. Here is a great plantation of young oaks, for the use of -the crown: a great deal of fine oak-timber left; but the beech-trees -are very stately and numerous. - -[Illustration: 46·2ᵈ. _Prospect of_ Ringwood _14 June 1724 +Regnum+._ - - _Stukeley del_: _E. Kirkall sculp_:] - -[Illustration: 83 Prospect of +Winchester+ from the South 9 Sep. 1723. - +VENTA+ Belgarum. - - A. _the Cathedral._ - B. _the Kings house_ - C. _the Bishops Palace_ - D. _the College_ - E. _the Ro: road to Southampton_ - F. _the Ro: Road to old Sarum_ - G. _Ro: road to Speen & Silchester_ - - _Dno Rogero Mostyn Barrᵗᵗᵒ. - tab. d.d. Wˢ. Stukeley._ - - _Wᵐ. Rufus his Tomb_ - - _Stukeley del_:] - -[Sidenote: +Arminis.+] - -Romsey was unquestionably a Roman town, and its present name shows as -much. The church is a noble old pile of architecture, arched with stone -in the form of a cross, with semi-circular chapels in the upper angles. -These churches, hereabouts called minsters, were doubtless built by -the Saxon kings as soon as they became christian: the manner of their -structure is much like those built by queen Helena in Palestine: at -the west end of it is a bit of an old wall, perhaps belonging to the -nunnery built here by king Edgar. I heard of a silver Roman coin found -here. This town is an old corporation, in situation extraordinary -pleasant, having woods, corn-fields, meadows, pastures, around it in -view: the river and rivulets, which are many, have a rapid course. - -[Sidenote: +Venta Belgarum.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. LXXXIII.] - -Two miles before I came to Winchester, the downs of chalk begin -again with barrows upon them. I saw several double ones. The walls -of Winchester inclose a long square about 700 paces one way, 500 the -other: it stands on the western declivity of a hill, the river running -below on the east. Many branches, and cuts of it too, pass through the -midst of the city, and render their gardens very pleasant: the walls -and gates, as repaired in times long after the Roman, and chiefly of -flint, are pretty intire; no doubt, built upon the old Roman. In the -higher part of the city is the castle, which overlooks the whole:[138] -here is a famed round table, where king Arthur’s knights used to sit. I -saw some great ruins still left of the walls and towers that belonged -to it; but the main of it was pulled down when Sir Christopher Wren -projected the king’s palace there in king Charles the IId’s reign: -it fronts the west end of the cathedral. The houses in the town were -bought in order to make a street between both, which would have had a -noble effect. This palace is a large pile of building, and beautiful, -yet with all the plainness that was necessary to save an extravagant -expence, or that became a royal retirement: it fills up three sides -of a large square, so that the opening of the wings or front looks -over the city: three tier of windows, twenty-six in a row, fill up -every side externally, besides the fronton in the middle of each side, -composed of four Corinthian pilasters: a handsome balustrade runs -quite round the top: the inside of this open court is more elegant, -and enriched with portico’s, &c. the late duke of Tuscany gave some -fine marble pillars towards the adorning it. A great bridge was to -have been built across the foss in the principal front; and a garden, -park, &c. were to have been made before the back front: the citizens -entertain great hopes, that since the happy increase of the royal -family, this palace will be finished: it is of plain brick-work, but -the window-cases, fascias, cornice, &c. of good Portland stone. There -is a great old chapel near it. This place was the residence of the -potent kings of the West Saxons. - -The cathedral is a venerable and large pile: the tower in the middle -and transept are of ancienter work than the choir and the body. Inigo -Jones has erected a delicate screen of stone-work before the choir. -Here was the burial-place of many Saxon and Norman kings, whose remains -the impious soldiers in the civil wars threw against the painted glass: -they show too the tomb of king Lucius. Queen Mary was here married to -Philip of Spain: the chair used in that ceremony is still preserved. -In the body of the church is a very ancient font, with odd sculptures -round it. In the city is a pretty cross of Gothic workmanship, but ill -repaired. Without the southern gate is a stately fabric, the college, -erected and endowed by William of Wickham, bishop here, for education -of youth. There is good painted glass of imagery in the chapel windows: -in the middle of the cloysters is a strong stone building, the library, -well contrived to prevent fire: the school is a more modern structure, -handsome, with a very good statue of the founder over the door, made -by Cibber. This country is intirely chalk, whence I suppose the name -of _Venta_: the city is a genteel and pleasant place, and abounds with -even the elegancies of life. Beyond the river eastward is a high hill, -called St. Giles’s, from an hospital once there; now only some ruins of -it to be seen, and a church-yard, seeming to have been a camp, beside -the marks of bastions, and works of fortifications in the modern stile. -Here Waltheof, earl of Northumberland and Huntingdon, was beheaded, by -order of William I. whose body was carried to Crowland, and asserted to -have miraculous virtues. - -In digging the foundation of a house near the college, in a stone -coffin was found a stone set in a gold ring, with this inscription in -very old characters, supposed about the sixth century. - - _Duce domino comite fidele meo._ - -A mile to the south of Winchester is a magnificent hospital, called -Holy Cross, founded by bishop Blois: the church is in the form of a -cross, and has a large square tower. Over it, on the other side the -river, hangs a camp upon St. Catharine’s hill, with a _brachium_ -reaching down to the water side, for convenience of that element. The -way between Winchester and Southampton we perceived plainly to be a -Roman road, especially as far as the chalk reached: then we came to a -forest where the soil is gravelly all the way. - -[Sidenote: +Southampton.+] - -Southampton was strongly walled about with very large stones, full of -those little white shells, like honey-combs, that grow upon the back -of oysters: this is a sort of stone extremely hard, and seems to be -gathered near the beach of the sea. These walls have many lunettes, and -towers, in some places doubly ditched; but the sea encompasses near -half the town: it was built in the time of king Edward III. I observe -they have a method of breaking the force of the waves here, by laying a -bank of sea-ore, as they call it: it is composed of long, slender, and -strong filaments, like pilled hemp, very tough and durable; I suppose -it is thrown up by the ocean: and this performs its work better than -walls of stone, or natural cliff. At the south-east corner, near the -quay, is a fort with some guns upon it, called the Tower: on one we saw -this inscription, - - _Henricus_ VIII. _Anglie, Franciæ_ & _Hiberniæ rex, - fidei defensor invictissimus f. f._ - MD. XXXXII. HR. VIII. - -In the north-west corner was a strong castle with a mount, walled -about at top, as a keep: upon this a round stone tower, with a -winding ascent: the Anabaptists are about pulling it down, to build -a meeting-house. The main of this town consists of one broad street, -running through its length: there are many old religious ruins, -and great warehouses, cellars, store-houses, &c. but with their trade -gone to decay. It was a great sea-port not long since, and had the -sole privilege, by charter, of importing wine from France, till they -foolishly sold it to the city of London. - -[Illustration: 80 +Portvs Magnvs+ _12 Sep. 1723. Portchester_ - - _Stukeley d._ - - _View in the_ Port.] - -[Illustration: 79 _Prospect of_ Southampton _from the East Sep 11. - 1723._ - +Travsantvm+ - - A. _Sᵗ. Mary’s where the old_ Trausantum _Stood_ - - _Stukeley d._ - - _Prospect from_ Portsmouth] - -[Sidenote: +Trausantum.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. LXXIX.] - -The old Roman city stood more eastward, upon the banks of the river -Itching coming from Winchester, where now is a hamlet called St. -Mary’s. There is a handsome new church built upon the ruins of an old -one, which they say was burnt in some French wars: it is near the -present ferry and opposite to Bittern. Many antiquities have been found -upon the site of the old city. Likewise at Bittern was an old Roman -castle, surrounded by a ditch, into which the sea-water flowed: many -antiquities likewise have hence been produced, of which Mr. Camden -gives us an account. Perhaps the buildings on both sides the river -were comprehended under one name of _Trausantum_; therefore this river -must have been the _Antona_: it was ruined in the Danish wars, and -Southampton arose from its ashes. This is the place memorable for the -famous experiment of king Canute, who sitting upon the banks of the -river, crowned and in regal robes, commanded the tide not to approach -his footstool; but the ocean, like an unlimited monarch, was as -regardless of his menaces, as the Hellespont, of Xerxes his bridles and -fetters. - -[Sidenote: +Portus Magnus.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. LXXX.] - -Leaving this lesson of the perishing glory of monarchs and cities too, -we journeyed to Portsmouth, an entertaining sight of the maritime -majesty of Great Britain, in this point excelling the ancient Roman -grandeur. Over a moory common we passed by Fareham, and by Portchester, -a castle made out of a Roman city. We have little reason to doubt that -this is the _portus magnus_ of Ptolemy, as it deserves to be called, -where a thousand sail of the biggest ships may ride secure: the mouth -of it is not so broad, as the Thames at Westminster, and that secured -by numerous forts; on Gosport side, Charles fort, James fort, Borough -fort, which name seems to intimate a Roman citadel formerly there; -Blockhouse fort, which has a platform of above twenty great guns level -with the water: and on the other side, by Portsmouth, Southsea castle, -built by Henry VIII. of a like model with those I saw near Deal upon -the Kentish shore. - -[Sidenote: TAB. LXXIX.] - -Portsmouth is the most regular fortification, of the modern manner, -which we have in England; a curious sight to those that have not been -out of it. The government has bought more ground lately for additional -works, and no doubt it is capable of being made impregnable; for -a shallow water may be brought quite round it. Here is one of the -greatest arsenals for the royal navy: above thirty men of war of the -highest rates lie here, capable of being fitted out in less than a -fortnight; among them, the Royal William, that can play off at once 120 -battering-rams of brass, infinitely more forceable than that famous -one Titus used against the walls of Jerusalem. The yards, the docks, -the store-houses, where all their furniture is laid up in the exactest -order, so that the men can go in the dark and fetch out any individual, -is a sight beyond imagination. The immense quantities of cables, -masts and tackle, of great guns, bullets, bombs, carcasses, mortars, -granado’s, &c. these of all sorts and sizes, and the regular methods -they are reposited in and distinguished by, are prodigious, and no -where to be equalled but in England; for when I was informed that this -place is outdone, in all the particulars, both at Chatham and Plymouth, -there was no more room left for wonder. The Royal William’s mast is a -noble piece of timber 124 foot long, and this is only the bottom part -of the main mast; it is 36 inches diameter, clear timber: its lantern -is like a summer-house: its great anchor and all accoutrements are -equally astonishing. The rope-house is 870 foot long, one continued -room, almost a quarter of a mile: we chanced to have the pleasure of -seeing a great cable made here; it requires 100 men to work at it, and -so hard the labour, that they can work but four hours in a day. The -least complement of men continually employed in the yard is a thousand, -and that but barely sufficient ordinarily to keep the naval affairs -in good repair. But I have talked enough of matters so much out of my -sphere. I was sorry to leave this amazing scene of naval grandeur, with -the shocking sight of a wretched statue of king William, gilt indeed in -an extraordinary manner; but of all the bad works in this fort, I have -seen, it is the very last. From Portsmouth there is a fine prospect of -the isle of Wight, famous for Vespasian’s first attempts in subduing -the southern parts of Britain: its beautiful elevations, some woody, -some downy, its towns, havens and white cliffs, at this distance, seem -to persuade one it is an epitome of Great Britain, as that of the -world; or that Nature made it as an essay, or copy, of her greater and -more finished work. Before I leave Portsmouth I shall set down this -catalogue of the British fleet as it stands this present year, given -me by an officer; by which some people, fond of magnifying the mimic -endeavours of some other powers, may calculate, if they please, when -such will come up to rival it. - - Rates. Guns. Nᵒ of each rate. Complement of men - to each. - _1st._ 100 7 780 - _2d._ 90 13 680 - _3d._ 80 16 520 - 70 24 440 - ———— - 60 - ———— - _4th._ 60 18 365 - 50 46 280 - 124 - ———— - _5th._ 40 24 190 - 30 4 155 - ———— - 152 - ———— - _6th._ 20 27 130 - ———— ———— - 179 3540 - ———— ———— - The whole complement - of men 55720. - Fire-ships 3 - Bombs 3 - Sloops 13 - Yachts 12 - Hoys 11 - Smacks 2 - Hulks 7 - Store-ships 1 - Hospital-ships 1 - ———— - 232 - -[Illustration: 82 _Prospect of_ Portsmouth, the Isle of Wight - Gosport, Portchester &c Sep. 13. 1723._ - - A. _The Isle of Wight._ B. _Southsea Castle._ D. _Portsmouth._ E. - _Landgard fort._ F. _Gosport._ G. _Portchester._ H. _Portsdown - hill._ - - _Prospect of_ Chichester _Sep. 14. 1723._ _Stukeley del._] - -[Illustration: 81 +Mantantonis+ - _Sep. 14. 1723._ - - A. _Where the Roman Temple stood_ - B. _Grey-fryers_ - C. _Black fryers_ - D. _Sᵗ. Marys Hospital_ - - _Stukeley Delin._ _Parker Sculpᵗ._] - -[Sidenote: TAB. LXXXII.] - -I observed, the great quantity of water and ditches about this place -is apt to render it aguish. The reader will excuse me from giving -any description of the fortifications here, for the same reason that -I did not offer to draw any thing; but passing by draw-bridges, -bastions, gates, fosses, counterscarps, &c. we repeated our steps to -the Ports-down hills, which are of chalk, and at a reasonable distance -from the shore extend themselves into Sussex; leaving to the south a -less elevated, woody, and rich country. Here we turned to admire the -delightful view of the ground we had passed, and that we were going to: -the ports, creeks, bays, the ocean, the castles fixt, and those moving -on the water, the isle of Wight in its full extent, all lay before us, -and under the eye, as in a map: Portchester, Gosport, which is a very -considerable town, Portsmouth, Southampton, Chichester, and all the -sea-coast from Portland isle to the Sussex coasts, were taken in at one -ken. I took a little sketch of it in passing, in plate 82. - -We found some of the Roman way upon this ridge, which I suppose went -through Fareham and Havant, between _Trausantum_ and Chichester, with -a vicinal turning out to Portchester: it goes east and west. We passed -by a large long barrow. We were led to Chichester by the fame of a -most ancient inscription lately discovered there, whereof transcripts -were handed about, that appeared not exact enough: this has revived -the lustre of Chichester; for, though the termination of its name, and -a Roman road called Stane-street coming to it, is evidence sufficient -of its being a Roman city, yet none has positively affirmed it, -because we have not hitherto been able to assign it a name. Mr. Camden -satisfied himself that it owed its name and foundation to Cissa, the -South-Saxon king. It is probable the city was destroyed soon after the -Romans evacuated this kingdom, either in the wars between the Britons -and first Saxons, or by the plundering Danes, who ravaged all the -sea-coasts; so that its name was utterly forgot: but Cissa becoming -master of this country, and there chusing to fix his seat, repaired the -ancient castle or walls, whose _vestigia_ were of too lasting materials -wholly to have lost the appearance of their workmanship: then it was -natural enough to prefix his name to this Roman termination, by which -the Saxons always called castles of the Romans: or it might be simply -called _caster_, _chester_, as was frequent in other places, till he -restored it; and then it took his name, importing _Cissa’s chester_: -but had it been originally founded by him, it would never have assumed -that adjunct. - -[Sidenote: TAB. LXXXI.] - -I doubt not but the walls of the present city are built upon the old -Roman foundations chiefly. It is of a roundish form, the river running -under part of the walls. Two principal streets cross it at right -angles upon the cardinal points, where stands a curious cross erected -by bishop Read. The church takes up one of these quadrants: it is -remarkable for two side-ailes on both sides, and the pictures of all -the kings and queens of England since Cissa, which are hung upon the -wall of the southern transept; all the bishops on the opposite wall. -Eastward of the cathedral is a place called the _Pallant_, which seems -derived from the Latin _palatium_. In the middle of North-street was -dug up this memorable inscription, which I have printed in plate 49. To -your explication of it nothing can be added: the reader and myself will -be obliged to you for the leave you have given me here to insert it. It -was happy we took great care in transcribing the letters; for, since it -has been in the possession of the duke of Richmond, I hear a workman, -who pretended to set the fragments together, has defaced it. - - - _An Account of a_ ROMAN INSCRIPTION _found at_ Chichester. - - _By_ +Roger Gale+, _Esq._ - -[Sidenote: TAB. XLIX.] - -This inscription, as curious as any that has yet been discovered in -Britain, was found, the beginning of last April, at Chichester, in -digging a cellar under the corner house of St. Martin’s lane, on the -north side, as it comes into North-street. It lay about four foot -under ground, with the face upwards: by which it had the misfortune -to receive a great deal of damage from the picks of the labourers, as -they endeavoured to raise it; for, besides the defacing of several -letters, what was here disinterred of the stone was broke into four -pieces: the other part of it, still wanting, is, in all probability, -buried under the next house, and will not be brought to light till -that happens to be rebuilt. The inscription is cut upon a grey Sussex -marble, the length of which was six Roman feet, as may be conjectured -by measuring it from the middle of the word TEMPLVM to that end of it -which is intire, and is not altogether three foot English, from the -point mentioned: the breadth of it is 2 and ¾ of the same feet; the -letters beautifully and exactly drawn; those in the two first lines -three inches long, and the rest 2¼. - -Being at Chichester in September last with Dr. Stukeley, we took an -accurate view of this marble, which is now fixed in the wall under -a window within the house where it was found; and, that we might be -as sure of the true reading as possible, wherever the letters were -defaced, we impressed a paper with a wet sponge into them, and by that -means found those in the fifth line to have been as we have expressed -them above, and not as in other copies that have been handed about of -this inscription. - -The only letter wanting in the first line is an N before EPTVNO, and -so no difficulty in reading that. As to the second, though it was more -usual, in inscriptions of this nature, to express the donation by the -word SACRVM only, referring to the _temple_, or _altar_, dedicated; -yet we have so many instances, in Gruter’s _Corpus Inscriptionum_, of -TEMPLVM and ARAM also cut on the stones, that there is not the least -occasion to say any thing farther upon that point. - -The third line can be no other way filled up, than as I have done it by -the pricked letters: I must own, however, that I have had some scruple -about the phrase of DOMVS DIVINA, the same thing as DOMVS AVGVSTA, -the _imperial family_; which I cannot say occurs, with any certainty -of the time it was used in, before the reign of Antoninus Pius, from -whom, down to Constantine the Great, it is very frequently met with in -inscriptions. This kept me some time in suspence, whether this found -at Chichester could be of so early a date as the time of Claudius: -but as we find several inscriptions in Gruter with those words in -them, or I. H. D. D. _In Honorem Domus Divinæ_, which is much the same -thing, without any mark of the time when they were cut, they may have -been before the reign of Antoninus Pius, and then only came into more -general use; and as the time that Cogidunus lived in, will not let -this be of a later standing, I think we may offer it as an authority -for the use of this piece of flattery to the emperors long before that -excellent prince came to the purple. - -The third line, as I believe, was EX AVCTORITATE. TIB. CLAVD. and the -fourth COGIDVBNI. R. LEG. &c. that is, _Ex auctoritate Tiberii Claudii -Cogidubni regis, legati Augusti in Britannia_; for the following -reasons: we are informed by Tacitus, _in vita Agricolæ_, _cap._ 14. -that after Britain had been reduced to a Roman province by the -successful arms of Aulus Plautius, and Ostorius Scapula, under the -emperor Claudius, _Quædam civitates_ Cogiduno Regi _erant donatæ, is -ad nostram usque memoriam fidissimus remansit, vetere ac jam pridem -recepta Populi Romani confsuetudine ut haberet instrumenta servitutis_ & -Reges. This _Cogidunus_ seems to be the same person as _Cogidubnus_ in -our inscription, the letter B in the third syllable making little or no -difference in the word, especially if pronounced soft, as it ought to -be, like a V consonant. - -It is so well known to have been the custom of the Roman _Liberti_ and -_Clientes_, to take the names of their patrons and benefactors, it -would be wasting of time to prove the constant usage of that practice. -Now, as this _Cogidubnus_, who in all probability was a petty prince of -that part of the _Dobuni_ which had submitted to Claudius, and one that -continued many years faithful to him and the Romans, (_vide Tacit. ut -supra_) had given him the government of some part of the island by that -emperor, nothing could be more grateful in regard to Claudius, nor more -honourable to himself, after he was _romanised_, than to take the names -of a benefactor to whom he was indebted for his kingdom, and so call -himself TIBERIVS CLAVDIVS COGIDVBNVS. - -I suppose him to have been a _Regulus_ of the _Dobuni_; because we -are told by Dion Cassius (_in lib._ lx.) that Aulus Plautius having -put to flight Cataratacus and _Togodumnus_, sons of Cunobelin, part -of the _Boduni_ (the same people as the _Dobuni_) who were subject to -the _Catuellani_, submitted to the Romans; and the name _Cogidubnus_, -or _Cogiduvnus_, *Coc o Dubn*, or *Duvn*, (_vid. Baxteri -Glossar. in verbis_ Cogidumnus, & Dobuni) signifying expresly in the -British language PRINCEPS DOBVNORVM, seems to put the matter out of all -doubt. - -How far his territories extended, it is impossible to define. Bishop -Stillingfleet, _Orig. Britan._ p. 63. supposes them to have lain in -Surrey and Sussex. Sussex certainly was part of them, since the temple -mentioned in this inscription was erected in it by his authority; and -it is not unlikely, that besides the _Regni_, who were the people of -those two counties, he might have that part of the _Dobuni_ which had -submitted to the Romans, and seems to have been his own principality, -together with the _Ancalites_, _Bibroci_ and _Segontiaci_, whose -countries lay between the _Dobuni_ and the _Regni_, bestowed upon him; -the words _civitates quædam_, in Tacitus, not importing no more than -some _few towns_, but _several people_; the word _civitas_ always -signifying a _people_ in that historian. - -Before I proceed any farther, it will not be amiss to observe, that -_Togodumnus_ and _Cogidubnus_, though their names are so much alike, -were two distinct persons: the first was son of Cunobelin, king of the -_Trinobantes_, vanquished and killed in battle by Aulus Plautius; the -second, a prince that submitted to Ostorius Scapula, and continued -in his fidelity to the Romans, _in nostram usque memoriam_, says -Tacitus, who was born at the latter end of Claudius’s reign; so that -_Togodumnus_ was probably dead before _Cogidubnus_ had his government -conferred upon him. - -I call it his government; for though, by the letter ·R· standing in the -inscription with a point both before and after it, by which it plainly -denotes an intire word of itself, it may seem that it was intended -for COGIDVBNI REGIS, and I believe was so in respect of his _quondam_ -dignity, yet it is evident, that he had condescended to take the title -of LEGATVS AVGVSTI IN BRITANNIA from Claudius: and that too must have -been only over those people that he had given him the government of; -Aulus Plautius, Ostorius Scapula, Didius Gallus, Avitus Veranius, and -Suetonius Paullinus, having the supreme command successively about -this time in this island, the second and last of which are called -expresly _Legati_ by Tacitus, _lib._ xii. _Ann. cap._ 23. & _Vit. -Agric. cap._ 15. The _Legati Cæsaris_, or _Augusti,_ were those _qui -Cæsaribus subditas regebant Provincias_. - -The sixth line has lost at the beginning the letters COLLE; but so much -remains of the word, as makes it to have been indubitably, when intire, -COLLEGIVM; and the following letters are an abbreviation of FABRORVM. - -These colleges of artificers were very ancient at Rome, as ancient as -their second king Numa Pompilius, if we may believe Plutarch (_in vit. -Numæ_) who tells us, that the people were divided by him into what we -at this day call _Companies of Tradesmen_, and mentions the Τέκτονες -or _Fabri_ among them; though Floras (_lib._ i. _cap._ 6.) says, that -_Populus Romanus a_ Servio Tullio _relatus suit in Censum, digestus in -Classes, Curiis atque_ Collegiis _distributus_. But as the power of the -Romans extended itself, it carried the arts of that great people along -with it, and improved the nations that it subdued, by civilizing, and -teaching them the use of whatever was necessary or advantageous among -their conquerors; from which most wise and generous disposition, among -other beneficial institutions, we find these _Collegia_ to have been -established in every part of the empire, from the frequent mention -of them in the inscriptions collected by Gruter, Spon, and other -antiquaries. - -Several sorts of workmen were included under the name of _Fabri_, -particularly all those that were concerned in any kind of building; -whence we meet with the _Fabri Ferrarii_, _Lignarii_, _Tignarii_, -_Materiarii_, _Navales_, and others: the last named may have been -the authors of dedicating this temple to Neptune, having so near a -relation to the sea, from which the city of Chichester is at so small -a distance, that perhaps that arm of it which still comes up within -two miles of its walls, might formerly have washed them. The rest -of the fraternity might very well pay the same devotion to Minerva, -the Goddess of all arts and sciences, and patroness of the Dædalian -profession. - -As no less than five letters are wanting at the beginning of the sixth -line, there cannot be fewer lost at the beginning of the seventh, where -the stone is more broke away than above; so that probably there were -six when it was perfect. What we have left of them is only the top of -an S: I will not therefore take upon me to affirm any thing as to the -reading of them, which is so intirely defaced: perhaps it was A. SACR. -S. _a sacris sunt_; perhaps it was HONOR. S. _Honorati sunt_: as to the -former, we find these _Collegia_ had their _Sacerdotes_; therefore _Qui -a sacris sunt_, which is found in inscriptions, (_vid. Grut. Corp._ -xxix. 8. cxxi. +I. DCXXXII. I.+) would be no improper term to express -them; or it might have been SACER. S. _sacerdotes sunt_, since we find -such mentioned in the following inscriptions. _Spon. Miscell. Erud. -Antiq._ p. 58. - - MAVORTI SACRVM - HOC SIGNVM - RESTIT _ _ _ _ _ - COLL. FABR. ARI - CINORVM ANTIQVISS. - VETVSTATE - DILAPSVM ET - REFECER. CVR. L. LVCILIVS - LATINVS PROC. R. P. ARIC. - ET T. SEXTIVS MAGGIVS - SACER. COLL. EIVSD. - -_Mavorti sacrum hoc Signum restituit Collegium_ Fabrorum Aricinorum -_Antiquissimum, vetustate dilapsum, & refecerunt. Curabant Lucius -Lucilius Latinus, Procurator Reipublicæ Aricinorum, & Titus Sextius -Maggius_ Sacerdos _Collegii ejusdem_, - -Ibid. p. 64. - - L. TERTENI AMANTI - SACER. COLL. LOTORVM - IIVIR. C. SARTIVS C. F. - ITERINVS ET L. ALLIVS - PETELINVS D. D. - -_Lucius Tertenius Amantius_ Sacerdos _Collegii Lotorum, Duumviri Caius -Sartius, Caii Filius, Iterinus, & Lucius Allius Petelinus Dedicaverunt_. - -As to the latter, those members of the college that had passed -through the chief Offices of it, as that of _Præfectus_, or _Magister -quinquennalis_, had the title of HONORATI conferred upon them: you have -several of these HONORATI mentioned in Gruter, particularly a long -catalogue of them _in Collegio Fabrorum Tignariorum_, p. +CCLXVIII. I.+ -and in Reinesius’s _Syntagma_, p. 605. there is an inscription, - - EPAGATHO TVRANNO - HONORATO COLLEGI - FABRVM TIGNARIORVM - ROMANENSIVM _&c._ - -So that the vacuity in our inscription may very well have been filled -up with one or other of these words; and the three next letters that -follow them, D. S. D. _de suo dedicaverunt_, will agree with either of -them, and what precedes them. - -The last line has been PVDENTE PVDENTINI FILio: but there must have -been a letter or two of the _prænomen_ at the beginning of it, unless -it was shorter than the rest at that, as well as at the latter end of -it: and from what I have said, the whole may be read as follows: - - _Neptuno & Minervæ Templum pro Salute Domus Divinæ, ex Auctoritate - Tiberii Claudii Cogidubni Regis, Legati Augusti in Brittanniâ, - Collegium Fabrorum, & Qui in eo a Sacris [or Honorati] sunt, De suo - Dedicaverunt, Donante aream Pudente Pudentini Filio._ - - Chichester, by this inscription found at it, must have been a - town of eminence very soon after the Romans had settled here, and - in process of time seems to have been much frequented, by the - Roman roads, still visible, that terminate here from Portsmouth, - Midhurst, and Arundel; though, what is very strange, we have no - Roman name now for it. I once thought it might have put in its - claim for _Anderida_, which our antiquaries have not yet agreed - to fix any where, being situated, very near, both to the _Sylva - Anderida_, and the _southern Coast_ of the island, the two - properties of that city: _vid._ Camb. Brit. and Somner’s Roman - Ports and Forts. But Henry of Huntingdon, who lived in the time of - Henry II. telling us, that the Saxons so destroyed _Andredecester_, - that _Nunquam postea reædificata fuit, & locus tantum quasi - nobilissimæ urbis transeuntibus ostenditur desolatus_, pag. 312. - (_Vid._ Dr. Tabor’s Discourse of _Anderida_, Philos. Transact. Nᵒ - 356.) it could not be Chichester; for that was not only rebuilt - before his time, but was a place of such note, that when the - bishops, soon after the Conquest, anno Dom. 1076. removed their - churches from small decayed towns, where several of them were then - seated, _in urbes celebriores_, Stigand, then bishop of Selsey, - settled his episcopal chair at that place. - - I shall conclude with observing, that when this inscription was - dug up, there were also two walls of stone discovered close by - it, three foot thick each, one running north, the other east, and - joining in an angle, as the North-street and St. Martin’s lane now - turn, which, in all probability, were part of the foundations of - the temple mentioned on the marble. - October 31. 1723. - -To this judicious elucidation of the inscription I have nothing to -add, but that it seems to me probable enough, that Pudens, mentioned -therein to have given the ground upon which the temple was built, was -that Aulus Pudens who married the famous British lady Claudia Rufina, -celebrated for her wit, beauty and eloquence. There is room enough in -the stone to suppose the letter A at least, as his _prænomen_ was in -that part which is lost. _Moncæius de incunab. regiis eccles. christ. -vet. Britann._ thinks Claudia, mentioned by St. Paul,[139] 2 Tim. iv. -21. was daughter of the renowned Caratacus, converted to christianity -by him, and married to this Pudens, a Roman Senator. But this may be -judged rather too early, on account of the time of St. Paul’s death, -and that wherein Martial lived, who wrote two elegant epigrams upon -her; and we may with more likelihood conclude her to be the daughter -of our _Cogidunus_, who lived to Tacitus his time, which was the same -as Martial’s: and there is equal reason for the name of Claudia to be -given her in honour of Claudius the emperor, as for the king her father -taking the same upon himself, as appears in this inscription. Martial’s -first epigram upon her is the 13th in his IV. _L._ thus, - - _Claudia, Rufe, meo nupsit peregrina Pudenti - Macte esto tædis o hymenæe tuis_ &c. - -We may well imagine this was wrote in the reign of Domitian, by the -first epigram in that book being in honour of that emperor’s birth day; -and sixteen years at least must have passed between that and the time -of St. Paul’s death, which happened the last year of Nero. The other -epigram is the 54th of XI. _L._ - - _Claudia cœruleis cum sit Rufina Britannis - Edita, cur Latiæ pectora plebis habet? - Quale decus formæ! Romanam credere matres - Italides possunt, Atthides esse suam. - Dî bene, quod sancto peperit fæcunda marito - Quot sperat generos, quotque puella nurus. - Sic placeat superis, ut conjuge gaudeat uno, - Et semper natis gaudeat illa tribus._ - -We may conclude, that if she had been of age sufficient to be converted -by St. Paul, she would about this time have been too old to have -children, and be accounted beautiful. But times and all circumstances -conspire sufficiently to make her the daughter of _Cogidunus_. - -Famous was the contest between Neptune and Minerva in naming the -city of Athens, which they referred to the umpire of Apollo: he, to -avoid the _odium_ of appearing partial on either side, left it to the -decision of mortal men, as Varro tells us: howsoever, these two deities -are happily reconciled in a joint partnership of the dedication of this -temple. The antiquaries are still at variance about the ancient name -of this city. Therefore, Sir, that I may not be wholly an unworthy -fellow-traveller, _passibus etsi longe inequalibus_, I shall venture, -if Minerva is not averse, to offer my thoughts towards a recovery of -the Roman denomination of Chichester, which appears plainly to have -been an eminent and early station: though the journey of Antoninus -reaches it not, yet it would be strange if Ravennas should have passed -it by, who is very particular in this part of the island. - -[Sidenote: +Mantantonis.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. LXXXI.] - -I observe the river this city stands upon is called _Lavant_. There -are three towns synonymous higher up, East, West, and Middle Lavant; -whence I think we may conclude, that the true and original name of -the river was _Antona_, not an uncommon appellative of such in the -Celtic dialect: Mr. Baxter, voce _Anderida_, calls it _Ant_. Likewise -a town called _Hampnet_ stands upon it, which seems some corruption -of _Antona_. Now there are two rivers of this name falling into the -southern ocean; that which we spoke of lately, the Itchin, running by -_Trausantum_; and this we are upon: therefore it appears natural and -necessary that they should some way or other be distinguished from -one another: the former _Trausantum_, Mr. Baxter, voce _Antona_, says -signifies the farther _Antona_; and in this same sense, but in a later -manner, Ninius calls it _Trahannon_; as our monk Ravennas, _Onna_, by -a softer pronunciation. Our river then must be the hither or nearer -_Antona_, however actually distinguished; which we must find out. -Looking into that author generally called _Anonymus_, though I suppose -his true name is _Ravennas_, as born there, (it being at that time -the method of the ecclesiastics to take the sirname of their native -towns) he thus mentions some cities hereabouts: _Caleba Atrebatum_, -_Anderesio_, _Miba_, _Mutuantonis_, _Lemanis_, _Dubris_, _&c._ Now -I imagine _Mutuantonis_ is the place here sought for. This author -probably transcribed these names from inspection of a map, sometimes -casting his eye along a road, sometimes a river, sea-coast or the -like, and sometimes _per saltum_: when he has been reciting many -names of cities in the inland parts as far as _Corinium Dobunorum_, -or Cirencester, he returns to the south-east part of the island, and -begins a new period, as above. Directly in his way to the sea-coasts -is _Caleba_, or Farnham, as I shall show in proper place: next is -_Anderida_; which cannot be this place, for the reason you brought out -of Henry of Huntingdon: no doubt it is somewhere upon the Sussex coast; -but its particular site I shall not take upon me now to determine. -_Miba_ is with good reason thought to be Midhurst; then very naturally -follows _Mutuantonis_, our Chichester: hence he takes his route -eastward towards _Lemanis_, _Dubris_, _&c._ in Kent. In short, the -evidence is this: the author is plainly describing these parts; and -where should _Mutuantonis_ stand, but upon the river _Antona_? and it -does not appear, that any other river hereabouts is so called; or, if -it did, _Anderida_ may very well thither be referred, which cannot -possibly to this place. I take the name of _lavant_, or _mutuant_, to -be synonymous words in the British language, to distinguish it, as we -said, from _trausant_;, for _llafar_ signifies _sonorous_, _loquax_; -and _mwth_ is _citus_, _velox_; either of which, prefixed to _Antona_, -describe this rapid or noisy river; and in effect we find it remarkably -so. Dr. Holland in his notes at the bottom of Mr. Camden expresly -observes, that this river, though sometimes quite dry, at others, and -that very often in the midst of summer, is so full as to run very -violently: this, no doubt, is owing to its rise in the neighbouring -high grounds to the north; for from them it must needs fall with an -impetuous torrent. Further, it may possibly be derived from the British -_llai minor_, signifying the _lesser Antona_, from its short course; -the consonant _v_, or _f_ which is its equivalent, being interposed -_euphoniæ gratia_: or if Mr. Baxter’s correction of _Mantantonis_ be -thought just, then it signifies the mouth of the river _Antona_; and -Chichester now stands very near its inlet into the sea, and formerly -nearer. What way soever we take it, it seems reasonable to conclude -this is the place. Though it was not properly a sea-port town, yet -it is plainly near enough for the establishment of the _collegium -fabrorum_ here; and the vast plenty of wood from the adjoining -forest favoured their work, whether of timber or the forge. Since -this inscription, there was found a Mosaic pavement in Mrs. Downes’s -garden; and when that was pulled in pieces as usual, a brass coin was -discovered under it of Nero and Drusus Cæs. on one side, represented on -horseback; on the other, _C. Cæsar Divi aug. pron. aug. p. m. tr. p._ -+IIII.+ _pp._ which no doubt was there deposited to show the _æra_ of -that work. - -[Sidenote: TAB. LXXXII.] - -A little way out of the city northward, we passed by a Roman camp, -called Brill, I suppose Bury hill, in Ogilby’s maps called _Beauty’s -bank_: the Roman road called Stone-street causeway, goes directly -north-east from hence through this country, and by Darking church-yard -in Surrey; then falls into the Hermen-street at Woodcote. - -[Sidenote: TAB. XLIII.] - -[Sidenote: +Mida.+] - -St. Roc’s hill is a fine elevation, with a spacious circular camp -on the top, of a round form, a _castrum æstivum_, belonging to -_Mantantonis_. Here is a foundation of a chapel, or a beacon, perhaps -both: the reader may gather an idea of the view here from plate 43. At -Midhurst is a fine old seat called Cowdrey, belonging to the Browns -viscount Montacute: it stands in a valley incompassed with lawns, hills -and woods, thrown into a park, the river running underneath. It is a -large house of stone, consisting of one court: the hall is cieled of -Irish oak after the ancient manner; the walls painted with architecture -by Roberti, the statues by Goupé, the stair-case by Pelegrini: the room -at the end of the hall is of Holbein’s painting, where that famous -old artist has described the exploits of Henry VIII. before Bulloign, -Calais, his landing at Portsmouth, his magnificent entry into London, -&c. In the other rooms are many excellent pictures of the ancestors -of the family, and other history-painting of Holbein’s, relating to -their actions in war. The whole circuit of rooms above stairs are -stately and well furnished, adorned with many pictures: there is a long -gallery with the twelve apostles as big as the life; another very neat -one, wainscotted with Norway oak, where are many ancient whole-length -pictures of the family in their proper habits, which is a very elegant -notion: there are four history pieces; two copies of Raphael’s marriage -of Cupid and Psyche; several old religious and military paintings from -Battle-abbey. The road to Midhurst to us appeared Roman, and therefore -strengthens the supposition of its being _Mida_. - -St. Roc’s hill is upon the chalky down running east and west: north of -it to Farnham it is sandy, full of _erica_; but the valleys are rich, -warm and woody. The heaths between Farnham and Godalmin are full of -barrows. Ferndon hill in the way to Godalmin is very steep northwards, -and of an hour’s descent; which you rise to insensibly: it runs east -and west. - -[Sidenote: +Calleva Atrebatum.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. XLIV. 2d Vol.] - -At Farnham is the bishop of Winchester’s palace, a magnificent ancient -structure of the castle-form, deeply moted, and strongly walled about, -with towers at proper distance: it stands upon the edge of a hill, -where is a fine park. One large and broad street of the town, below -hill, fronts the castle; the main of the rest of the town consists of -a long strait street crossing it at right angles, which is the Roman -road coming from Winchester: the river runs parallel to it on the -south: this is a fine rich soil with much sand in it, and has an -extraordinary propriety for the growth of hops. This place I take to -be the _Caleva Atrebatum_;[140] which because it is a notion of my -own advancing, it requires that I should a little enlarge upon it, -and propose it to your discerning judgement. This has been hitherto -matter of dispute among antiquaries, and I think cannot otherwise -be settled than in fixing it at this place: it will make this VIIth -journey of Antoninus and some more very clear, that otherwise labour -under insuperable difficulties: therefore this I propose to be the true -scheme of that journey. - - - ITER VII. _a Regno Londinium M. P._ XCVI. _sic_ - - _Regnum_ Ringwood - _Trausantum_ Southampton XX - _Venta Belgarum_ Winchester X - _Caleva Atrebatum_ Farnham XXII - _Pontes_ Stanes XXII - _Londinium_ London XXII - ———— - _toto_, XCVI. - -We have no difference in the copies, but in the sum total at top, which -is owing only to a transposition of the letters C and X. therefore all -we have to do is to find out the towns; the particular numbers being -indisputably right, and rightly cast up in the _Suritan_ edition; -and all the places that admit any question, are only _Calleva_ and -_Pontes_, which in this manner mutually prove one another, as being -absolutely conformable to geography, and the nearest way one should -chuse to go at this day, and having from Southampton a Roman road -accompanying all the way. This summer I rode through Winchester and -Farnham, through Alresford and Alton, and observed in many places -signs sufficient of that nature; though it is horridly out of repair, -and even in the midst of summer very bad, notwithstanding such plenty -of materials every where to mend it: this has obliged coaches and -horsemen frequently to make excursions for their ease and safety. Mr. -Aubury likewise pronounces it a Roman road long since in his manuscript -collections. Between Farnham and Alton the bank is visible, in several -places between Alresford and Alton: the right reverend author of the -additions to Camden takes notice of it. The distance is twenty two -miles, as in the Itinerary; but to Wallingford, where Mr. Camden places -it, it is thirty; to Henley somewhat more: beside, from the one you -must cross the Thames three times, from the other twice in the way -to London; a thing the Romans would certainly avoid, if possible: -but from Farnham by way of Stanes is the direct road, and distances -correspondent as before. - -[Illustration: 44·2ᵈ. _Prospect of_ Farnham _Sep: 16. 1723._ - - +Caleva atrebatvm+ - - _Stukeley del:_ _E. Kirkall sculp:_] - -_Calleva_ is again mentioned in the XIIIth and XIVth journeys, both -which I have already corrected; and they mutually confirm one another, -and take away all difficulties when they are considered together. -Lastly, _Calleva_ is mentioned in the XVth journey of Antoninus: I -shall exhibit it in this form, which I conceive to be its original one. -We have cleared all the other parts of it before, where it differs from -this in the printed copies. - - - ITER XV. _a Caleva Atrebatum, Iscam Dumnoniorum M. P._ CXXXXI. _sic_ - - _Caleva Atrebatum_ Farnham - _Vindoma_ Silchester XV - _Venta Belgarum_ Winchester XXI - _Brigæ_ by Broughton XI - _Sorbiodunum_ Old Sarum VIII - _Vindogladia_ Boroston XII - Ibernium _Bere regis_ XIIII - _Durnovaria_ Dorchester IX - _Moridunum_ Seaton XXXVI - _Isca Dumnoniorum_ Excester XV - —————— - CXXXXI - -Perhaps the last X in the sum total was corrupted into a V after the -station was dropped out. The first part of it here establishes the site -of _Calleva_ in respect to _Venta Belgarum_; as in the XIIIth and XIVth -journeys in respect to _Spina_; so that it is proved from different -points of a triangle, and as it were by mathematical demonstration. - -I imagine the occasion of over-sight in this matter is owing to Mr. -Camden’s settling the _Atrebates_ in Berkshire; and his authority, -no doubt, with every one is of the greatest weight deservedly: yet -I suppose his only reason for it is because he thought Wallingford -the _Calleva Atrebatum_, as having some resemblance to his supposed -_Gallena_. In his Roman map he has set these _Atrebates_ partly north -of the Thames in Oxfordshire, where himself puts the _Ancalites_, and -partly south, where rightly he fixes the _Bibroci_ in Berkshire: this -is in my judgement too far northward. I doubt not but the _Bibroci_ -inhabited Berkshire intirely to the Thames, as I proved in a former -letter; to which we may add, that if, as he says, this country was -called by the Saxons _Berrocscyre_, there can be no difficulty in -asserting the word derived from _Bibroci_. The _Atrebates_ came -undoubtedly from _Gallia Belgica_, where were a people of the same -name upon the sea-coasts; and if we place them here in Surrey about -this their capital, they may with some propriety with Mr. Camden be -said here in Britain to live over-against their own country, where -Ptolemy places them in the maritime parts upon the Sein; but not if he -sends them up to the top of the Thames: nor is it probable they should -have penetrated so far up the country, even beyond their brethren the -_Belgæ_, by all allowed the most powerful colony of transmarine people -at that time. The _Segontiaci_ as well as _Bibroci_, on this side the -Thames, would confessedly oppose such passage; therefore, if we give -Sussex to the _Regni_, we must reserve Surrey for these _Atrebates_, -and Farnham their capital; and this is agreeable to Ptolemy, who places -them next the _Cantii_. - -[Sidenote: TAB. LVI.] - -A little without Farnham eastward, the road divides into two branches -with an acute angle: one goes to Guildford and Darking, where it -meets the Stane-street coming from Chichester; the other to Stanes, -which I prosecuted to Farnborow, probably a station or inn, or camp -to secure the road over this wild country; for it is deep sand from -Farnham to Egham: but where in particular the Roman road went is not -easy to define, because of the extraordinary sandiness of the whole -country:[141] but at Frimley, near here, about sixteen year ago, -an urn with Roman coins and intaglia’s was found: Mr. Titchburn had -them. This is directly in the way to Farnbarow. I suppose there was -a Roman way from Silchester through Stretley, Hartley row, Harford -bridge, which signifies _trajectus militaris_, but from the mooryness -of the soil is quite worn away. I take this road to be a continuation -of that coming from the Bath by Marlborough;[142] but at Stanes I saw -our road very evidently go through the fields west of the bridge, and -directly over-against it; for it must be understood that the Romans -drew a road, as I said before, under the Icening-street, and parallel -to it, which went from _Regnum_ to London. This is what we have been -upon, and composes this VIIth _Iter_: From thence it passed through -Colchester to the sea-coasts of Suffolk. Now between Stanes and London -it is notorious, being the common road at present, till you come to -Turnham green:[143] there the present road through Hammersmith and -Kensington leaves it; for it passes more northward upon the common, -where to a discerning eye the trace of it is manifest; then it goes -over a little brook called from it Stanford-bridge, and comes into the -Acton road at a common, and a bridge, a little west of Camden house, so -along Hyde-park wall, and crosses the Watling-street at Tyburn, then -along Oxford-road. But of this part of it, going to Old-street, north -of London, I spoke before. - -[Illustration: 84 _Prospect of Stanes Sept. 16. 1723._ - - +Pontes+ - _16 Sep. 1723._] - -[Sidenote: +Pontes.+] - -[Sidenote: TAB. LXXXIV.] - -Between Oxford-street and Stanes, this Roman road was originally drawn -through Brentford, which undoubtedly was a mansion between them; and -this is a very strait line: I rode the broken part of it between Acton -road and Turnham green: it is still a narrow strait way, keeping its -original direction, but full of dangerous sloughs, being a clayey soil -and never repaired: it butts full upon Stanes bridge, and then beyond -it passes forward in a strait line through gardens and yards into the -corn-fields, where its ridge is still left, the highest part of all -the field, though they plough close to it on both sides; and it is now -a road for three quarters of a mile; then it enters a narrow lane, -and at last degenerates into a foot-path toward Thorp-lea, in the way -to Farnham; the common road leaving it all this while in the way to -Egham. So that undoubtedly Stanes was the _Pontes_ of Antoninus;[144] -the distances of 22 miles on both sides answering the fact, and the -Itinerary; with which I shall at present conclude mine in the words of -the poet, - - _Hic labor extremus, longarum hæc meta viarum._ +Virg.+ Æn. III. - - - - - THE - PLATES - IN - _ITINERARIUM CURIOSUM_, Cent. I. - - And where explained. - - 1. Rural Curiosity. Marlborough _mount, and the cascade at_ - Wilton. Pag. 64 - - 2. Lincolnshire _decoys_. 18 - - 3. Seats. _Lord_ Hartford’s _house at_ Marlborough. 64 - - 4. Ichnography of castles. Ludlow _castle, ground-plot and prospect_. 74 - - 5. _Prospect of the same._ 74 - - 6. Views of castles. Rochester _castle_. 120 - - 7. Bridges. Croyland _bridge_. 34 - - 8. Ichnography of Palaces. Whitehall _ruins ground-plot_. _Pref._ - - 9. Ruins of Palaces. _King_ John’_s palace at_ Clarendon. 138 - - 10. Seals. _Of the church of_ Norwich. _Pref._ - - 11. Crosses. _St._ Guthlack’_s, Ivy cross_, Ednam, - Hadenham, _and others_. 12, 19, 34, 107 - - 12. Waltham _cross_. 37 - - 13. Prospects. Blackston _cave, &c. near_ Bewdley. 74 - - 14. Hermitages. Dale _abbey, &c. and_ Blackston _cave - ground-plot_. 53, 74 - - 15. Portraits. _Sir_ Harry Spelman. _Pref._ - - 16. Monumental brasses. _Bishop_ Smith, _founder of_ Brazen-nose - _college_. 92 - - 17. Marbles. Aylwin _alderman of_ England. 81 - - 18. _King_ John’_s effigies at_ Worcester. 68 - - 19. View of churches. Boston, Lincolnshire. 31 - - 20. Colsterworth _church_. 85 - - 21. Holbech _church_. 20 - - 22. Religious ruins. _Priory of_ Leominster. 72 - - 23. Gatehouses. Reding _abbey, and_ Worcester _college_. 63 - - 24. Places of interment - of archbishops. _St._ Augustin, _St._ Augustin’_s abbey_. 123 - - 25. _Ruins of that abbey, king_ Ethelbert’_s - chapel. St._ Gregory’_s chapel_. 120, 123 - - 26. Kings. Reding _abbey, king_ Harry I. 63 - - 27. Feversham _abbey, king_ Stephen. 121 - - 28. Ichnography of abbies. Kirsted _abbey_, Tupholm _abbey_. 88 - - 29. Shrines. _St._ Hugh _the_ Burgundian’_s shrine_, - Lincoln. 92 - - 30. Altars. _The high altar of St._ Alban’_s abbey_. 117 - - 31. _The backside of the same._ 117 - - 32. _White fryers in_ Gloucester. 67 - - 33. _Ichnography of_ Glassenbury _abbey_. 151 - - 34. _The kitchen there._ 152 - - 35. _St._ Joseph _of_ Arimathea’_s chapel_. 152 - - 36. _Ruins of_ Glassenbury _abbey_. 152 - - 37. _Prospect of the same._ 151, 153 - - 38. Pictish. _The caves of_ Hauthornden, Scotland. 53 - - 39. British. _The_ Troglodytes _of_ Nottingham. 53 - - 40. Greek. _A view at_ Athens. _Pref._ - - 41. Roman camps. Chlorus _his camp, near_ Clarendon _park_. 137 - - 42. Oldbury _camp in_ Wiltshire. 141 - - 43. Camalet _castle and view from St._ Roc’_s - hill_. 150, 202 - - 44. Martinsal _hill_, Montacute _hill_, &c. 139, 156 - - 45. Walls. Silchester _walls, and a_ Roman _camp_. 79 - - 46. Pharos. Pharos _in_ Dover _castle_. 129 - - 47. _Ground-plot and section of the same._ 129 - - 48. Romano-Saxonic. _St._ Martin’_s church_, Canterbury, _and the - Church in_ Dover-castle. 129 - - 49. Roman inscriptions. Chichester, _&c._ 148, 196 - - 50. Amphitheatre. Dorchester _amphitheatre ground-plot_. 165 - - 51. _From the entrance a view._ 167 - - 52. _Another view._ 169 - - 53. _The sections and oblique view of the - amphitheatre._ 165, 167 - - 54. Gates. Roman _gate at_ Lincoln _and_ Canterbury. 89, 122 - - 55. Buildings. _Temple of_ Janus _at_ Leicester. 109 - - 56. Itinerary. _Of_ Antoninus. 6, 76, 111, 205 - - 57. Ichnography of - Roman Cities. Londinium Augusta, _London_. 119 - - 58. Garionenum _by_ Yarmouth. 132 - - 59. and Camboritum, Chesterford _Mag._ 78 - - 60. Prospect of Roman Spinæ, _Newberry_. 63 - Cities. - - 61. Vindoma, _Silchester_. 163, 177 - - 62. Cunetio castrum, Marlborough. 63 - - 63. _Prospect of_ Marlborough. 63 - - 64. Leucomagus, _Great Bedwin_. 64 - - 65. Sorbiodunum, _Old Sarum_. 182 - - 66. _Prospect of Old_ Sarum. 183 - - 67. _View of Old and New_ Sarum _from_ - Harnham-hill. 137 - - 68. Verlucio, _Heddington_. 142 - - 69. Punctuobice, _the Devizes_. 144 - - 70. Aquæ Solis, _Bath_. 146 - - 71. _Prospect of the_ Bath. 146 - - 72. Ischalis, _Ilchester_. 154 - - 73. Isca Dumnoniorum, _Exeter_. 156 - - 74. _Prospect of_ Exeter. 159 - - 75. Moridunum, _Seaton_. 159 - - 76. Londinis, _Lyme_. 160 - - 77. Durnovaria, _Dorchester_. 161, 165 - - 78. _Prospect of_ Dorchester. 161 - - 79. Trausantum, _Southampton, and prospect from_ - Portsmouth. 193 - - 80. Portus Magnus, _Portchester, and view in the - port_. 193 - - 81. Mantantonis, _Chichester_. 195, 201 - - 82. _Prospect of_ Portsmouth _and of_ - Chichester. 195, 202 - - 83. Venta Belgarum. 191 - - 84. Pontes, _Stanes_. 205 - - 85. Ariconium, _Kenchester_. 69 - - 86. Derventio, _Little Chester by_ Derby. 54 - - 87. Agelocum, _Littlebury_. 93 - - 88. Lindum colonia, _Lincoln_. 88 - - 89. Banovallum, _Horncastle_. 30 - - 90. Ad Pontem, _by_ Bridgford. 105 - - 91. Margidunum, _by_ Willoughby. 106 - - 92. Ratæ Coritanorum, _Leicester_. 108 - - 93. Benonis, _High-cross_. 110 - - 94. Tripontium, _Dove-bridge_. 112 - - 95. Verolanium, _Verolam_. 116 - - 96. Durovernum, _Canterbury_. 122 - - 97. Richborough-castle. 125, 163 - - 98. Lapis tituli, _Folkstone_. 131 - - 99. Lemanus Portus, _Limne_. 132 - - 100. Celestial character. _The great conjunction of the five - Planets._ _Preface._ - - 101. _Total eclipse of the Sun in 1721._ 179 - - - - - INDEX. - - - Page - English. - -Birth-Places, Sir _Isaac Newton_ 85 - -———— Dr. _Willis_ 64 - -———— Dr. _Harvey_ 131 - -Champions of _England_ 61 - -Circular churches 37, 87 - -Hermitages 34, 49, 53, 55, 61, 74 - -K. _John_’s palace 138 - -K. _Charles_ II. at _Winchester_ 191 - -Two mitred priories, _Spalding_ } 95 - and _Thornholme_ } - -Q. _Eleanor_’s crosses 36, 37, 92, 114, 115, 117 - -Royal oak 60 - -The _British_ navy 194 - -Sepulture of K. _Lucius_ 192 - -———— _H._ I. 63 - -———— _H._ IV. 124 - -———— _Etheldred_ 190 - -———— _Edgar_ 152 - -———— _Arthur_ 152 - -———— _Stephen_ 121 - -———— _Rich._ III. 109 - -———— _Edw._ II. 67 - -———— _John_ 68 - -———— _Rob. Brus_ 81 - -_Stilton_ cheese 81 - -_Wales_ 59 - -The Washes 19 - -Vicar of _Bedwin_ 65 - - - Etymology. - -_Ankam_ river 95 - -_Bow_ 31 - -Barrows, burrows, bowers 48, 97, 115 - -_Biard_’s leap 15, 87 - -_Crekelade_ 65 - -_Churn_ 65 - -_Cunnet_ 63 - -_Catwater_ &c. 8 - -_Elho_ 5 - -_Ely_ 5 - -_Frampton_ 24 - -_Holland_ 5 - -_Humber_ 96 - -Hedg or hay in dancing 99 - -_Helpringham_ 12 - -_Hargate_ 16 - -_Hurn_ 24, 30 - -_Kesteven_ 85 - -_Llys_ 66 - -_Lichfield_ 66 - -_Lade_, _lode_ 19, 65 - -_Lindsey_ 85 - -_Martinalia_ 139 - -_Preshute_ 64 - -_Quern_ 67 - -Ruffian, romeing 15, 16 - -_Sarn_ 66, 76, 110, 121 - -_Syfer_ 102 - -_Thong-castle_ 102 - -Thong, wang 102 - -Warths 162 - -_Welsh_ words in _Lincolnshire_ 59 - -_Witham_ 85 - -Pageants 174 - - - Genealogies. - -Of _Wakes_ of _Brun_ 10 - -_Moulton_ 23 - -_Croun_ 25 - - - Seats. - -_Ambsbury_, lord _Charlton_ 137 - -_Althorp_, earl of _Sunderland_ 38 - -_Boughton_, duke of _Montague_ 36 - -_Burghley_, earl of _Exeter_ 35 - -_Belvoir_, duke of _Rutland_ 52 - -_Chatsworth_, duke of _Devon_ 55 - -_Cowdrey_, lord _Montacute_ 202 - -_Eston_, earl of _Pomfret_ 38 - -_Grimsthorp_, duke of _Ancaster_ 12 - -_Hampton-court_, earl of _Coningsby_ 72 - -_Marlborough_, earl of _Hertford_ 64 - -_Ribsford_, lord _Herbert_ of _Cherbury_ 74 - -_Wilton_, earl of _Pembroke_ 65, 185 - -_Woodstock_, duke of _Marlborough_ 46 - -_Warwick_, lord _Brooke_ 49 - - - Mechanics. - -Gotes and sluices, by whom invented 13 - -Decoys described 18 - -Salt making 57 - -The form of oars 130 - -Silk mill 54 - -Stocking-loom 52 - -Lace-loom 58 - - - Antediluvian. - -Trees 16, 59, 96 - -Wood 37 - -Bones 93 - -Canoos 16, 121 - -Nuts 147 - -Fish 81, 156 - -Plants 149 - -Horns 16 - -Shells 18, 43, 48, 93, 96, 107, 108, - 113, 116, 135, 137, 148, 149, 151 - - - Art. - -Mr. _Ashe’s_ Garden 55 - -_Enston_ water-works 48 - -_Gothic_ architecture commended 67 - -Whence their ill taste 124 - - - Mineralogy. - -Lead mines 54 - -Salt-springs 57, 69 - -Salt works 58 - -Tobacco-pipe clay 37 - -Coal mines 54, 63, 74, 149 - -Fullers earth 115 - - - Geography. - -Memoirs towards a _British_ map of soils 27, 29, 47, 62, - 64, 100, 115, 116, 120, 146, - 157, 177, 179, 190, 192, 193, - 195, 202, 204 - - - Natural. - -Composure of stones 18, 49, 55, 116, 159, 162, 192 - -The earth an oblade sphæroid 5 - -Proofs of the rotation of the globe 4, 29, 49, 67, 73, 77, - 93, 96, 101, 108, 115, 120, - 121, 130, 137, 138, 141, 146, - 148, 151, 157, 159, 202 - -The drumming well at _Oundle_ 36 - -_Pool’s_ hole 57 - -Another 149 - -Remarkably large stone 137 - -Flints in chalk 120, 141 - -Echo 46, 172 - -Beach of pebbles 124, 126, 127, 159 - -Of the noise of the ocean 126 - -Springs flowing with the tide 94 - -Petrifying springs 37, 108, 112 - -Springs swallowed up 131 - -Floating island 57 - -The philosophy of making drains 17 - -———— of harbours 130 - -———— of oars 130 - -An account of the solar eclipse 179 - - - Medicinal. - -Chalybeat spring 9 - -Ossification in a sheep 20 - -Sheep without horns 17 - -Prodigious memory 69 - -_Buxton_ bath 56 - -_Bath_ waters 146 - -Case of a greyhound bitch 155 - -_Bronchocele endemic_ 54 - -The symbol of medicine 148 - -_Scribonius_, physician to _Claudius_ 148 - -One aged 126 37 - -Of the gout 157 - -Richness of soil in old cities 41, 106 - -West side of the island } - most healthy } 59, 60, 74, 146 - -Botany 16, 32, 44, 53, 57, 59, 73, 95, - 110, 113, 117, 126, 128, 131, - 137, 149, 151, 154, 159, 160, - 189, 190, 203 - -Extravagant bulk of plants 72 - -_Celtic_ names of plants 190 - - - _Roman_ Roads. - - 57, 65, 69, 73, 76, 87, 96, 109, 120, 127, 137, 151, 156, - 158, 162, 179, 184, 192, 195, 200, 202, 203 - -Artifice of them 108, 141, 187 - -Manner of paving 106, 110, 155 - -_Hermen-street_ 5, 76, 81, 88, 202 - -—— name 6 - -—— the new 85, 93 - -Old _Hermen-street_ 7 - by whom made 7, 84 - -_Brigantian Hermen-street_ 92 - -_Akeman-street_ 41, 43, 47 - name 43 - -_Ricning-way_ 54, 61, 68, 69, 148 - name 54, 148 - -_Icening street_ 63, 77, 79, 115, 160, 179, 182, 187 - name 161 - extent 161 - -_Foss_ road 66, 87, 103, 145, 154, 155 - name 103 - extent 156 - -_Watling-street_ 59, 61, 111, 119, 121, 127 - name 111 - directed to _Rome_ 111 - -_Via Trinovantica_ 118, 177, 205 - -Stone streets 122, 132, 204 - -_Ravens-bank_ 15 - -_Via Badonica_ 62, 63, 140 - -_Brig-end_ causeway 15 - -In _Holland_, _Lincolnshire_ 14 - - - _English_ Towns. - -_Ambsbury_ 137 - -_Blandford_ 189 - -_Boston_ 31 - -_Buxton_ 56 - -_Bewdley_ 74 - -_Crowland_ 33 - -_Chip. norton_ 48 - -_Coventry_ 49 - -_Connington_ 81 - -_Colsterworth_ 85 - -_Chard_ 156 - -_Derby_ 54 - -_Fereby_ 99 - -_Feversham_ 121 - -_Fleet_ 12 - -_Frieston_ 25 - -_Fotheringhay_ 35 - -_Glassonbury_ 151 - -_Gedney_ 12 - -_Holbech_ 12 - -_Hyth_ 131 - -_Hereford_ 71 - -_Islip_ 44 - -_Kirkton_ 32 - -_Lichfield_ 61, 66 - -_Leominster_ 72 - -_Ludlow_ 73 - -_Moulton_ 22 - -_Malvern_ 69 - -_Newark_ 104 - -_Nottingham_ 52 - -_Oundle_ 36 - -_Oxford_ 44 - -_Petherton_ 156 - -_Portsmouth_ 193 - -_Rotherston_ 57 - -_Reading_ 62 - -_Somerton_ 154 - -_Steeple-ashton_ 145 - -_Southampton_ 192 - -_Stukeley_ 80, 114 - -_Stanford_ 35 - -_Tamworth_ 61 - -_Wight_ island 195 - -_Wrexham_ 59 - - - _Roman_ Towns. - -_Ancaster_ 86 - -_Brigcasterton_ 84 - -_Brentford_ 205 - -_Crekelade_ 65 - -_Caster_ 101 - -_Grantham_ 52 - -_Hartford_ 77 - -_Laurance Waltham_ 62 - -_Northfleet_ 120 - -_Newington_ 122 - -_Royston_ 79 - -_Sleaford_ 9 - -_Stanfield_ 9 - -_Stunsfield_ 47 - -_Spittal_ on the street 94 - -_Towcester_ 40 - -_Wintringham_ 95 - - - _Roman_ cities. - -_Abontrus_ 96 - -_Alauna_, Aldcester 40 - -_Ad spinam_ 63 - -_Ariconium_ 69 - -_Agelocum_ 93 - -_Aquis_ 96 - -_Ad pontem_ 105 - -_Alauna_, Wimborn 190 - -_Arminis_ 191 - -_Aquæ solis_ 146 - -_Andaoreon_ 179 - -_Brigæ_ 184 - -_Bolnelaunium_ 190 - -_Benavona_ 114 - -_Benonis_ 110 - -_Branonium_ 68 - -_Bonium_ 59 - -_Branavis_ 48 - -_Banovallum_ 30 - -_Condate_ 57 - -_Cunetio_ 63 - -_Corinium_ 66 - -_Camboritum_ 78 - -_Causennis_ 85 - -_Crocolana_ 103 - -_Caleva Atrebatum_ 202 - -_Colomeæ_ 150 - -_Derventio_ 54 - -_Deva_ 59 - -_Durocinonte_ 80 - -_Durobrivis_ 82 - -_Durocobrivis_ 116 - -_Durobrovis_ 120 - -_Durolenum_ 121 - -_Durovernum_ 122 - -_Dubris_ 127 - -_Durnovaria_ 161 - -_Eltabona_ 37 - -_Etocetum_ 61 - -_Garionenum_ 152 - -_Glevum_ 67 - -_Isca Dumnoniorum_ 156 - -_Ischalis_ 154 - -_Ibernium_ 189 - -_Leucomagus_ 64 - -_Lindum_ 88 - -_Lactorodum_ 114 - -_Londinium_ 119 - -_Lapis Tituli_ 131 - -_Lemanis_ 132 - -_Londinis_ 160 - -_Moridunum_ 159 - -_Moriconium_ 190 - -_Mida_ 202 - -_Mantantonis_ 201, 202 - -_Magiovinium_ 115 - -_Margidunum_ 106 - -_Mancunium_ 58 - -_Noviomagus_ 119 - -_Præsidium_ 49 - -_Pennocrucium_ 61 - -_Portus magnus_ 193 - -_Punctuobice_ 144 - -_Pontes_ 205 - -_Rutupiæ_ 124 - -_Regnum_ 190 - -_Ratæ_ 108 - -_Salinis_ 69 - -_Salinæ_ 78 - -_Sorbiodunum_ 182 - -_Suellaniacis_ 118 - -_Tamese_ 43 - -_Tripontium_ 112 - -_Trausantum_ 193 - -_Vindoma_ 177 - -_Verlucio_ 142 - -_Vagniacis_ 120 - -_Verolanium_ 116 - -_Vernometum_ 108 - -_Venta Belgarum_ 191 - -_Vindogladia_ 188 - -_Vainona_ 28 - -_Ypocessa_ 69 - - - Roman Forts. - -_Burgh_ 16, 29 - -_Boston_ 16 - -_Spalding_ 14 - -_Wisbech_ 14, 16 - -_Brancaster_ 16 - -_Richborough_ 125 - -_Farnborough_ 204 - -Many more 8 - - - Roman Camps. - -_Arbury hill_ 114 - -_Audleyn_ 79 - -_Bury hill_ 43 - -_Bury hill_ 179 - -_Burrough hill_ 113 - -_Barbury_ 140 - -_Badbury_ 140 - -_Badbury_ 140 - -_Badbury_ 189 - -_Castledikes_ 114 - -_Cheselbury_ 135 - -_Cheselbury_ 139 - -_Chloridunum_ 137 - -_Dinder-hill_ 70 - -_Gildsborough_ 38 - -_Hexton_ 77 - -_Honington_ 87 - -_Hamden hill_ 156 - -_Honey ditches_ 159 - -By _Kingsclere_ 179 - -_Maiden castle_ 162 - -_Martinshall_ 139 - -_Oldbury_ 141 - -_Poundbury_ 162 - -_Ring hill_ 202 - -_St. Roc’s hill_ 70 - -_Sutton walls_ 79 - -_Vespasian’s camp_ 138 - -_Wodbury_ 189 - -_Yarborough_ 101 - -_Yarnbury_ 137 - - - Roman remains. - -_Old Sea-dike_ 13 - -The _Cardike_ 7 - -Gate at _Lincoln_ 89 - -At _Canterbury_ 13, 122 - -_Mintwall_, at _Lincoln_ 89 - -At _Exeter_ 157, 158 - -_Jewrywall, Leicester_ 109 - -At _Ariconium_ 70 - -At _Rochester_ 120 - -_Temples_ 66, 79, 146 - -Manner of _Roman_ walls 89, 104, 117, 120, 122, 125, - 129, 132, 161, 165, 177 - -_Lolham_ bridges 7 - -_Pharos_ at _Dover_ 129 - -Their mortar 89, 101 - -Proportion of bricks 70, 117 - -Imbanking of _Holland_ 12 - -Piles of oak 105, 109 - -Amphitheatres 125, 163, 164, 178 - -_Julian_’s bower 31, 95 - -The meaning 97 - -_Chichester_ inscription 196 - -_Lapis milliaris_ 14, 87, 94, 179 - -_Lares_ 42, 66, 118, 145 - -_Thyrsus_ 31 - -Antiquities in _Holland_ 12, 13 - -At _Rauceby_ 12 - -_Wells_ 54, 83 - -_Hypocausts_ 59, 70, 123 - -Coins found 9, 13, 40, 42, 48, 52, 54, 59, 60, 62, - 66, 70, 78, 80, 83, 84, 85, 86, 91, 94, - 95, 101, 104, 107, 112, 114, 116, 139, - 141, 142, 145, 149, 150, 154, 156, 158, - 175, 177, 182, 188, 202, 205 - -_Mosaics_ 47, 66, 70, 81, 83, 84, 105, 107, 109, - 117, 155, 158, 162, 202 - -_Cæsar’s_ landing place 127 - -_Julia Domna_’s head 157 - -_Arundel_ Collection _Preface_, 38, 45, 84 - -_Runway_ 141 - -_Rumsey_ 191 - -_Ramsgate cliff_ 124 - -_Ravensbank_ 15 - - VII. } { 203 -_Antoninus_’s Iter XIII. } corrected { 143 - XIV. } { 144 - XV. } { 204 - -Inscriptions 67, 91, 148, 169 - - - Celtic Antiquities. - -_Tumuli_ 5, 19, 29, 30, 38, 43, 74, 106, 107, - 113, 115, 118, 127, 131, 135, 156, 160, - 162, 165, 179, 184, 188, 189, 191, 202 - -Instruments dug up 12, 57, 58, 59, 91 - -_Oppida_ 53, 77, 78, 124, 135, 138, 182, 191 - -_Cursus_ 109 - -Temples 48, 100, 136, 140, 149 - -_Grimesditch_ 47, 179 - -_Flightditch_ 79 - -_Brentditch_ 79 - -Boundary of the _Belgic_ kingdom I. 189 - II. 187 - III. 138 -_Wansdike_ IV. 64, 142, 145 - -The _Albionites_ 189 - -These _Celtic_ works ancienter than the _Roman_ 141, 142, 188 - - - British Camps. - -_Aukbury_ 138 - -_Credon hill_ 70 - -_Bushill_ 77 - -By East _Hamstead_ 177 - -_Harbury banks_ 78 - -_Maiden bower_ 115 - -_Wilbury_ 77 - -_Warmleighton_ 49 - -_Tadmerton_ 49 - -_Burbich_ 139 - -_Mentaris Æstuarium_ 5 - -_Cavata_ 85 - -_Victius_ 88 - -_Bibroci_ 62, 204 - -_Atrebates_ 202 - -_Nadre_ 135 - -_Antona_ 193, 201 - -_Belgæ_ 135 - -_Dobuni_ 140, 197 - - - Religious Houses. - -_Vaudy_ 12 - -_Sempringham_ 12 - -_Skirbec_ 25 - -_Frieston_ 25 - -_Hagnaby_ 29 - -_Crowland_ 32 - -_Northampton_ 37 - -_Bicester_ 43 - -_Tame_ 44 - -_Osney_ 45 - -_Ruleigh_ 45 - -_Godstow_ 46 - -_Chipping Norton_ 48 - -_Dale_ 53 - -_Chester_ 59 - -_Reading_ 62 - -_Marlborough_ 63 - -_Hereford_ 71 - -_Leominster_ 72 - -_Ludlow_ 74 - -_Ramsey_ 81 - -_Nocton_ 88 - -_Kyme_ 88 - -_Barlings_ 88 - -_Bardney_ 88 - -_Tupholme_ 88 - -_Stickswold_ 88 - -_Kirksted_ 88 - -_Revesby_ 88 - -_Risby_ 95 - -_Gokewell_ 95 - -_Thornton_ 100 - -_Leicester_ 109 - -_Sopwell_ 117 - -_Feversham_ 121 - -_Glassenbury_ 151 - -_Cowic_ 158 - -_Exeter_ 158 - -_Wimburn_ 190 - - - - - FOOTNOTES: - -[1] The late John Ives, Jun. Esq; of Great Yarmouth, F. R. & A. S. who - was possessed of these Plates, kindly lent that of Sir Henry Spelman - for this Edition: the other was re-engraved before the Editor knew in - whose possession they were. - -[2] Cum perpetui ferè & asperrimi montes sint versus occasum.—Baxteri - Glossarium, voce _Otodini_. - -[3] At Hall, by Inspruck, salt-rocks, says Mr. Addison in his Italian - Travels. - -[4] Cæsar calls Arminius a German general, whose proper name was - _Harman_, or _Herman_, which signifies in that language the General - of an Army. - -[5] The 6th of August, 1733, I went to meet Mr. Roger Gale coming from - Peterborough. I staid at the Roman road, on that high hill, they have - lately afresh plowed up some of the heath. It is surprizing to see - how thick the fossil shells lay just under the surface, turned to - stone; cockles, muscles, bivalves, whilks, and many more. I measured - the adventitious turf grown over the Roman road: at a breach, it is - almost six inches. - -[6] Lolham and Torphall, two royal manors belonging to Margaret - countess of Richmond, who lived at Colliweston, a great old house at - Lolham, which has been moted about. At Torphall the foundation of an - antient tower forty foot square. - - Mr. Samuel Parker gave me, 1735, a silver Antoninus found by the - Cardike on the back of Peterborough minster: the reverse, COS. III. - DES. IIII. Many Roman coins found in digging in the ruins of the - minster. - - At Moreton upon the Cardike, much Roman coin found. - -[7] _Cardike_ is British: _Cæirs_ is _palus_ - -[8] Oslac, ambassador from Athelwolf, king of the West Saxons, anno - 851, to Bertulf, king of Mercia, witness to a charter of Bertulf’s - to Croyland abbey, Ingulf, p. 490. This was done at a parliament - held at Kingsbury, a manor of the kings of Mercia, near Verolanum, - and near where Offa had built the monastery to St Alban. I suppose - Oslac, often mentioned in charters about 966, in Ingulf and others, - to be Oslac, in the time of king Edgar, partner with earl Osul in the - government of Northumberland, by king Edred constituted. His hand - is at king Edred’s charter to Croyland, anno 948; to that of king - Edgar, in 966; and to that of king Edgar to Peterborough, 970. Roger - de Hoveden, p. 243. Oslac, butler to Athelwolf, was a Goth by origin, - says Rog. de Hoveden, descended from Stuf and Withgar, two earls - and brothers, who received the Isle of Wight from their uncle, king - Cerdie, and Cinvic his son, their cousin. - -[9] Ralf, or Radinus Scalre, son to Goda, sister to king Edward: he is - buried at Peterborough. Leofric, lord of Brun, was cousin to him. - Earl Rodulf was son to Goda. William Malmsbury, p. 45. _b._ Earl Rolf - was one of king Edward’s admirals against earl Godwin. - -[10] Morcar had these manors following, in the time of Domesday book: - Colstewrde (Colsterworth) Basingheham, Shillington, Cherchebi - (Kirkby) Chime (Kime) Bodebi, Wellingoure, Castre, Cotes, Barewe, - Stroustone, Nort Stoches, Carletune, Bredesthorp, Wes-Bitham, - Bortone, Brune, and Stapleford. - - Bodebi belonged of right to Crowland. - -[11] Morchar, or Macher, as William Malmsbury calls him, son of Elgar, - or Algar, p. 46. _b._ was made earl of Northumberland; Tostin, son - of Earl Godwin, losing it for his severity: and at the end of king - Edward’s life, Tostin coming out of Flanders to invade the coasts - of Northumberland in a piratical manner, was repelled by the forces - of Morcar, and his brother Edwin. Tostin goes into Scotland, there - meets Harold Harfag, the Norwegian, with three hundred ships upon an - invasion: they agree to join forces, land in Northumberland, surprise - the two brothers overjoyed at their late victory, and shut them up in - York city till king Harold relieved them. - - Tostin, son of earl Godwin, was earl of Northumberland, and turned - out, by instigation of his brother, at the end of Edward the - Confessor’s life, and Morchar made earl in his stead. Morcar, and - his elder brother Edwin, lived there very lovingly together, and - when Harold the king was slain by William the Conqueror, offered - themselves to the people, who might chuse one of them for their king. - Harold and they were cousins; and they were at London at the time of - the battle of Hastings: but William the Conqueror’s fortune prevailed - both in getting the battle, and in getting the kingdom. Afterwards - they disturbed the Conqueror by little inroads and vexations, and - were sometimes taken prisoners; yet he pardoned them, and married - them to his relations. At length they were slain perfidiously by - their own men, and the king was much grieved at their death. - -[12] Hereward married Turfrida in Flanders. - -[13] The Duke of Ancaster, 1726, showed me a large brass Hadrian, but - defaced, dug up in his garden, near the _tumulus_ at the end: he says - more coins have been found about the stone pits in the park. That - _tumulus_ perhaps was the burial-place of Grime, who denominated the - place Grimsthorp, or Grime’s farm, probably some great Saxon, or - Dane. I observe there are a few more _tumuli_ upon hills hereabouts, - as one on the heath by Corby. I think the country hereabouts - extremely fine and delightful: an excellent kind of stone is dug - up in Grimsthorp park; and here and there a vein of good marble of - a darkish colour: the blueish marble lies uppermost in a bed of - about four foot; then a bed of twenty foot thick, of an excellent - whitish stone, with reddish veins where they can cut blocks of any - dimensions. Anno 1731, in digging in the court yard, they found an - old brass seal, a coat of arms, two bars ermine; the epigraphe, as - well as I could make it out, thus: - - SEEL. DES. OBLIG[AT symbol]CIONS. DE. RCE. - -[14] Later, about 1701 or 1702. - -[15] At Grantford, by March, 1732, several Roman urns found. - -[16] Holbech seems to have been _Holbergh_, as Wisbech _Wousbergh_. - -[17] Anno 1727, at Walpole, by the side of Wisbech river, abundance of - Roman aqueducts were dug up, and Roman bricks, &c. and Mr. Colburn, - minister there, sent me an aqueduct. - -[18] Wisbech is called _Wiseberch_, i. e. burgh, in king Wulfhere’s - charter to Peterburgh. Mr. Peck’s Ant. Stanf. p. 21. Many Roman - aqueducts dug up at Wisbech castle, when they built the present - structure, as Mr. Beaupre Bell tells me; such as were found at - Walpole, whereof I have one. William the Conqueror built a castle - upon the Roman work. - -[19] No less than eight canoos were found in draining Martin mere. Dr. - Leigh’s _Lancaster_. A moss-deer’s skeleton found fourteen foot under - ground in the fens by the river Witham, Lincolnshire. I saw part of - a moss-deer’s horn at the Society in Peterborough, found in the fens - there. - -[20] The bed wherein Margaret lay, has since been removed to a - farm-house by the fen-side, called Wrigbolt, where I have seen it. - It is a very old-fashioned oak bed with panels of odd embossed work, - like many we see in old country houses. - -[21] Pliny says they eat ducks in Britain as a great delicacy. - -[22] Radulfus de Holbech officium custod. resignat, & resumit locum - focii ap. Æd. Petri Cant. 1349. - -[23] Algar the Count, called the Younger, with his two stewards, - Wibert and Leofric, who gave names to these three towns, Algarkirk, - Wiberton, Leverton, with other warriors, obtained a great victory - over the Danes, anno 870. (Chron. Joan. Abb. S. Petri de Burgo, ed. - a Spark, p 15. from Ingulf) but were slain the next day. 9 Ed. I. - Ranulf de Rye obtained of the king a licence for a market every week, - on the Monday, at his manor of Gosberchurch, and free warren there, - as at his lands at Swinflete, Quadavering, Donington, Iwardby, and - Housthorp. - -[24] Thoroton’s Hist. of Nott. gives part of this Pedigree, p. 174. - -[25] That monument in the church-yard was probably that of St. - Botulphus, who was buried in this town, and famous for miracles - before and after death. - -[26] The old church, built after the Danish devastation in 870, was of - Turketil’s raising, who died 975. The new part of Crowland abbey was - built in 1114. - -[27] The names of Croyland bells are mentioned by Ingulf, p. 505. _b_. - The first was made by Turketil, _Guthlac_ the greatest: the five - others were made by his successor, abbot Egelric; _Bartholomew_, - _Bettelin_, _Turketyl_, _Tatwin_, _Pega_ and _Bega_. - -[28] The abbot of Croyland’s chair is at Mr. Dove’s seat at Upton by - Peterborough, a descendant of bishop Dove’s: upon it, +BENEDICITE - FONTES DN̄O+. I suppose the abbot’s name was _Fountain_. - -[29] St. Guthlake’s hermitage ruins pulled down about 1720. - -[30] The triangular bridge of Croyland is mentioned in the time of king - Edred, anno 948. St. Guthlake’s cross, Plate XI. was set up by abbot - Thurketil a little before that time.—Ingulf, p. 497. _b._ - -[31] Of these crosses thus Walsingham, Hist. Angl. anno 1291. Dura - (rex) finibus Scotiæ, &c. - -[32] Grantham and Stamford were two stages. Mr. Howgrave says there was - a queen’s cross at Stanford; and the like is affirmed of Grantham, - and that it stood in the open place in the London road: and I saw a - stone, carved with foliage work, said to be part of it; and I believe - it, seeming of that sort of work: if so, then Newark and Leicester - must be left out, and they travelled with the queen’s corpse by way - of Oundle to Geddington from Stanford, I suppose the present London - road from Stanford being unpassable, or not having at that time royal - seats, manors, or abbeys, by the way, sufficient to entertain the - cavalcade. Mr. Peck, in his Stanford Antiquities, asserts Grantham - and Stanford two of the stages, and where crosses were erected, no - doubt, that at Grantham flood in the open London road before my - neighbour Hacket’s house, called Peter-church hill; and the people - have some memory of it. Mr. Peck puts in Woburn between Dunstable - and St. Alban’s; upon what authority I know not.—Geddington was a - manor of the king’s, V. Regist. Hon. Richmond, p. 280.—Camden in his - Remains, p. 208, who doubtless had seen them, inserts Grantham and - Stanford, V. p. 116. - -[33] At Naseby, round the font an inscription, ΝΙΨΟΝ - -[34] The Rev. Mr. Bertie of Uffington gave me 1735, several Roman coins - found in this city; a very fair silver Hadrian, +IMP. CÆSAR TRAIAN - HADRIANVS AVG.+ reverse, a sitting figure. +PM TRP COS. III.+ - -[35] Jan. 1718, between Broadwel and Stow in the Wold, Gloucestershire, - a countryman digging a ditch to divide a pasture, found an urn of a - green colour: at top it had foliage work; in it thirty pound weight - of copper Roman coin, which he sold for six-pence per pound. About a - dozen were sent to Dr. Mead, of Constans, Constantine, and Magnentius. - -[36] _Acha_, in Irish, is a dike, mound, or bank. - -[37] The countess of Warwick was abbess here. _Tiber._ B. XIII. 5. - Bibl. Cotton. is her elegium. - -[38] Holinshed, in his Hist. Engl. p. 92. says a stone trough full of - Roman coin was found at Grantham forty years before: he there gives - an account of the golden helmet, &c. found at Harlaxton. - -[39] The castle was in the close by the river east of the church: - people alive remember foundations of it being dug up. I saw this - year, 1726, a large brass Antoninus coin, found near Slade mill, in - possession of Mrs. Vincent. Some think the castle was at Captain - Hacket’s house, and that it was John of Gaunt’s castle, who had a - manor here: however, great foundations are at the place, and arches - have been taken up by the Captain; whether belonging to that manor - house, castle, or the adjoining St. Peter’s church, now demolished, I - know not. - -[40] It is a mistake I was led into by the vulgar opinion of the people - of Grantham: Mr. Stokes was master of the school in Sir Isaac’s time. - -[41] 1726, I saw the tomb-stone of this Robert new dug up, in a stable - where was the priory chapel: - - ROBERT DE TODĒILE FVDEVR - - wrote in large letters with lead cast in them. - -[42] I have a brass Claudius, found in Grantham, reverse, +CERES - AVGVSTA+, struck on occasion of that universal dearth mentioned by - St. Luke. Josephus takes notice of it, Ant. Jud. III. 18. - -[43] It contains 26,586 principal wheels, any one of which may be - stopped separately, and independent of the rest: one regulator - governs the whole work. It works 73,728 yards of silk every time the - water-wheel goes round, which is thrice in a minute; 318,504,960 - yards of silk in a day and night. A girl of eleven years old does the - work of thirty-five persons. One chimney conveys warm air into every - room. - -[44] Walter Laci gave to the canons of Lanthony the whole valley where - the abbey was situate, viz. from Kenentesset and Askareswey, by the - _Rudgewey_, to Antefin, and from Haterell, from the land of Sesil - Fitzgilbert, by the _Ruggewey_, to the bounds of Talgarth. - -[45] An account of these shells in Phil. Trans. p. 427. V. II. - Mr. collector Terry tells me they find here vast quantities of - antediluvian fir-trees, and peat very deep in the earth: amongst it, - a large hollow gold ring, an inch and a half diameter; and a broad - thick coin of base gold, full of strange unknown characters on both - sides, sold to a goldsmith there; probably an invaluable curiosity. - -[46] At Frilsham, a Roman villa by _ad Spinam_, a Roman altar dug up, - dedicated to Jupiter, 1730, in the earl of Abingdon’s grounds. - -[47] At Froxfield, south of Ramesbury, upon the _via Trinobantica_, a - Roman villa discovered anno 1724. under a wood two Mosaic pavements. - Lord Winchelsea has the drawings of them. Many antiquities found here. - - Howhill near here. - -[48] _Lod_ and _Lud_, &c. is a general name for rivers. The river - _Loddon_ runs into the Thames between Reading and Henley. _Loddon_, - the name of a town upon a rivulet running into the Yare near - Yarmouth, Norfolk. _Lutton_, in Holland, Lincolnshire, where all - the drains of the country meet. _Ludlow_, and _Ludford_ near it, - from the river. _Lidston_, in Devonshire, and _Lidford_, anciently a - large town upon the river _Lid_, a branch of the Tamar. _Lidbury_, - upon the river _Liden_, Herefordshire. River _Lid_, in Cumberland. - _Lidesdale_, _Loder_, in Westmoreland. _Luda_ river and town - (Louth) Lincolnshire. _Ludham_, upon a river in Norfolk. _Lug_, in - Herefordshire, a river of note. _Loghor_, a river in Glamorganshire. - Hence _Luguballia_, _Lugotitia_, _Ludgate_, &c. - -[49] Wm. of Malmsbury, p. 65 tells a story he had from this Walkerius. - -[50] _In longas orbem qui secuere vias._ +Ovid.+ Amor. II. 16. - -[51] Among the old Egyptians, Herodotus tells us, (_Euterpe_) one sort - of soldiers was called _Hermotybiæ_; latui _arma_. - -[52] The Roman station between London and Hertford (I suppose they - had one every ten miles, if conveniently it could be) was probably - at Cheshunt, anciently _Cestrehunt_; and it is likely there was a - fortification there. Wadesmill retains the name of _Vadum_. - - It is very easy to discern where the old Roman road becomes the - present road northward, by the alteration of its direction, near a - little rill between Wadesmill and Ware. Wadesmill was a Roman ford, - _vadum_, _wath_; whence its name: and from hence the Roman road is - the common one, or post road, to Chesterton, or _Durobrivæ_, upon the - river Nen. - - K. Edward senior, in 909, the 9th year of his reign, built a castle - there, says H. Hunt; where it is printed _Herefordiam_ instead - of _Hertfordiam_. _Castrum non immensum, sed pulcherrimum, inter - Beneficiam_ (the Bean) _& Mimera & Luge flumina, &c._ - - Cestrehunt, Cheshunt, is _via ad castrum_. _Huynt_, _hynt_, is in - Welsh a gang, or road, a by-road, short road. - -[53] Vast quantities of coins found at Gamlingay, as I am told by Mr. - Peck. - -[54] June 11, 1729, Mr. Welby of Denton tells me, Gardiner, who keeps - the Crown inn at _Camboritum_, lately found many Roman coins there, - and sells them for four pence a piece. - -[55] Dr. Brady, in his History of England, p. 48. mentions this city. - Hollingshed, p. 92. _b._ of his History of England, says a gate of it - was standing in his time. - -[56] _Et_ camuris _hirtæ sub cornibus aures._ +Virg.+ G. III. - -[57] The chalk ends about two miles north of Baldoc and Royston. - -[58] The market-place at Royston is a large square area, seemingly of - Roman design. - -[59] Probably Roisia, wife to Pagan de Beauchamp, Baron 3d of Bedford, - who built the castle of Bedford about the time of the Conquest. - -[60] May 15, 1732, I rode between Huntingdon and Cambridge, and - discovered evidently that it was a Roman road all the way, pointing - strait from Godmanchester to Cambridge castle. When I told this to - Mr. Roger Gale, then at Cotenham, he said, he had observed that Roman - road which lies on Gogmagog hills to point likewise upon Cambridge - castle; so that the ford at Cambridge river is originally Roman: and - undoubtedly there was a Roman town at Cambridge, for the conveniency - of passengers and armies between the _Iceni_ and the northern parts - beyond Huntingdon. I apprehend Chesterton and Grantchester were - Roman forts and repositories of corn from this country, to be sent - to Peterborough, and so by the Cardike into the north: and from - the bridge at Cambridge, Bridge street and St. Andrew’s street are - continuations, in a very strait line and direction, of the Roman road. - - July, 1742, Mr. collector Collins showed me several Roman coins, - curious and fair, both silver and large brass, found lately at - Gormanchester; Hadrian, Antoninus, Severus. - -[61] The Saxon word _stiff_ seems to be the same with the Greek - στιβαρος, from στιβειν, to stiffen, _durare_, _roborare_; στυφεω to - stiffen, _cogere_, _constringere_: but which is the primitive, I - shall not determine. There are many large _tumuli_, by the road-side, - at Little and Great Stukeley: so one at the town-end of Stilton - northwards, and another on the top of the next hill northward by the - road. - -[62] Sir Robert Cotton bought the whole room from Foderinghay castle, - wherein Mary queen of Scots was beheaded, and set it up here. - -[63] Durobrivis was at that Roman work by the river side in Chesterton - parish. Allerton, hard by, was anciently wrote _Aldwalton_, - _Aldwarkton_. - -[64] The Castle field was walled about: perhaps this was originally one - of the forts upon the _Antona_, built by A. Plautius before the Roman - road was made. - -[65] Castre is called a royal manor, Ingulf, p. 497. - - It seems likely to me that Kimbolton was the town where Boadicia - lived; _Kiseni pant_, the Icenian valley; as she was making - homewards, she was met by the Romans at Ravensden, or the Roman - valley, where the battle was fought; and that they buried her at - Reynold, where the circular antiquity is, by the road side between - Bedford and St. Neot’s. It lies near the meadow, and seems to be a - British place for celebration of sports. - -[66] Mr. Parker, supervisor of excise, gave me a silver _Domitian_ - found at Castor; reverse +DIANA+, as usual. I saw a good brass - _Galba_ found there. - - I have a silver _Hadrian_ found at the true _Durobrivis_, Chesterton; - reverse +COS. III.+ - - Anno 1731 the people of Bernac dug up some urns, with coins in them, - near the Roman road passing through that parish. Mr. Archdeacon - Payn showed me a brass _Magnentius_: there were many urns, coins, - a brass _fibula_, tweezers, &c. dug up. I suppose it was a family - burying-place of the Roman villa at Walcot. - - Mr. Terry, collector, gave me a good brass _Vespasian_, reverse - +AVGVSTI+, found at Uffington. - -[67] _Wansford_ is _Avonsford_. - -[68] Many Roman coins found at Wilsthorp, upon the old Hermen-street: - it was a Roman station, being the same distance from _Durobrivis_ on - the old street, as Brigcasterton on the new. - -[69] I have several brass coins, found in the fields by Ryhall, in - the neighbourhood of Brigcasterton; particularly a large _Nero_, of - Corinthian brass; reverse, +VICTORIA AVGVSTI+: another; reverse, a - victory +S. C.+ a _Trajan_, of Corinthian brass; reverse, +CERES. - S. C.+ _Maximian_, reverse, +GENIO POP. ROM.+ _Constantinus Aug._ - reverse, +PRINCIPI JUVENTUT.+ exergue PLN. percussa Londini Constans - Felix temp. repar. Nerva. _Trajan_; reverse, +COS. IIII. P. P.+ - _Claud Gothicus_. - - Mr. Beaupre Bell gave me a fair _Sev. Pertinax_, middle brass, found - in Tickencote lane. - - I saw a silver _denarius_ of Pompey, found in Castreton field, 1733, - the first in second plate of Patin’s famil. Rom. Pompeia. - - I have a middle-sized brass coin of Nero, found at Brigcasterton, +S - P Q R+ stamped on the neck. I saw a large _Severus Pertinax_, brass, - found there, Mr. Foden’s. Dec. 7, 1731. Lord Ganesborough showed me a - fair large brass _Divo Antonino_, reverse, the Antonine column, dug - up in Exton church-yard. - - Pickworth church, to the right, was burnt down, together with the - then populous town, by the rebels in Henry the Seventh’s time; and - all now lies in ruins. At the same time Hornfield and Hardwick - demolished. Pickworth steeple, a very fine spire, and seen all round - the country, was taken down about A. D. 1728, to build a sorry - bridge at Wakerley. I saw the lower part of the steeple anno 1731, - when it was pulled down to build a bridge by Casterton. There was - a pretty church and an ancient one at Ingthorp, now turned into a - dwelling-house. - -[70] Sir Isaac was born at Wolsthorp, a hamlet of Colsterworth. - Some part of the high dike remains perfect enough in the fields - over-against Colsterworth. - -[71] A silver _Trajan_, found by the high dike in ditching near the - Woodnolk in Little Paunton parish, was sent by Madam Eyre, of - Eastwell, to Lady Oxford. - - Many Roman coins found at Strawston, in possession of my neighbour - Andrew Hacket, esq. and vaults dug up there: it is near Paunton. - - William de Vesci gave the church of Ancaster to the nuns at Walton; - to the knights Templars he gave the churches of Cathorp and - Normanton; to the canons of Sempringham, and nuns of Ormsby, the - hermitage at Spaldingholme. - -[72] The name of _Kesteven_ undoubtedly came from _Causennis_; but - Brigcasterton is really out of that division: Paunton is in the - midway of it. Many arched vaults under ground about Paunton Magna: in - one of them some coiners lodged for some weeks. - -[73] Mrs. Woodward gave me a silver _Antoninus_ upon his consecration, - found at Ancaster: she says, one morning she was there, a labourer - brought home a dozen Roman coins just then found. - -[74] Roman coins are found at Thistleton, near Post Witham, and at - Market Overton: two large _tumuli_ in a valley, near a division-dike, - on that beautiful plain called Saltby heath. - - I saw a fine brass _Alexander_, Roman; reverse, +PROVIDENTIA+, a - Genius with a _cornucopia_ and ear of corn. - - A mile off Stretton, between Stamford and Grantham, between Stretton - and Market Overton, is a place called the Holmes, where they find - vast quantities of Roman coins. Mr. Parker, supervisor, gave me - several, of the low empire: after a shower of rain, on the ploughed - ground, they find them plentifully. No doubt but this was a Roman - town. I viewed it with Mr. Baron Clark, of Scotland, May 30, 1733: - it is a villa, or shepherd’s town, upon a delightful plain: there is - an old well, which is new scoured, and the foundation of a wall that - inclosed a kind of a court: it is near Thistleton. - - Mr. William Annis gave me a brass _Magnentius_, found at Honington; - reverse +FELICITAS REIPUELICÆ+. - -[75] A Roman Mosaic pavement found in the fields above Denton, February - 1727–8, of which I sent an account to the Royal Society. - -[76] I saw in possession of Mr. Terry of Lincoln, found at Ledenham, a - Corinthian brass coin obliterated, with three holes bored in it. - - Over the parson’s gate of Ledenham an inscription of the famous John - Dee, minister here. - - [Illustration] - -[77] Ninnius says, Vortimer the British prince was buried here. - -[78] The castle of Lincoln was made by the Saxon kings, repaired by - William the Conqueror. - -[79] Captain Pownal gave me a brass _Fausta_, wife of Constantine, - found in a barrow near Lincoln, +SPES+. - - Mr. S. Buck gave me a Crispus Nob. C. brass, found in the rubbish of - a house, reverse, +BEATA TRANQUILLITAS P L C.+ struck at Lincoln. - - Captain Pownal told me they found coins, scatteringly, as they dug up - a Roman _tumulus_ near Lincoln, anno 1727. - - Sept. 2, 1731, I accompanied Mr. Roger Gale, in his journey to - Yorkshire, as far as Lincoln, (Dr. Knight of Bluntsham with us) just - before they had dug up the foundation of the Roman east gate toward - Banovallum: the stones exceeding large, cramped with iron. Lord - Burlington was present. - - This summer they found two Roman tombs by the quarries on the same - Banovallum road; four great stones set together like a coffin, and - one on the top: there were in it the bones of a man, with urns, - lacrymatories, and coins. - -[80] More brass _armillæ_ in the _tumuli_. - -[81] All the fields about Allington, Fosston, &c. are covered over with - petrified shells of a particular kind of oyster; they call them there - crow-stones. - -[82] So _Sedetani_, a people of Spain, in Silius are called _Hedetani_; - by Ptolemy, _Segesta_, a town in Sicily, _Egesta_, &c. - -[83] I saw a coin found here, brass, of Claudius; reverse, a soldier - with a shield throwing the pile. - -[84] The countess of Warwick, whose maiden name was Wray, gave the - manor to Magdalen college, Cambridge. - -[85] ——_Partes ubi se via findit in ambas._ - -[86] June 7. 1732, Mr. John Ash showed me some Roman coins found at - Ludford by Market Raisin, where he says they find very many: it is - fourteen miles from Lincoln, and probably a Roman station upon the - Fossway going toward the sea: the coins were of Constantius Cl. - Gothicus, &c. - -[87] In Bede it is called _Tunnaceaster_, from Tunna the owner, a - Saxon, IIII. 22. - -[88] The _Thane_ was a _count_, or minister of the king. Tong castle, - in Shropshire, upon the head of the Severn. - -[89] Near Stanford, in old writings, the Hermen street is sometimes - called the Foss. - -[90] Vide Ogilby’s Survey, [p. 207]. - -[91] Godfrid abbot of Peterborough built a new roof and chapel at - Collingham, which cost him 57l. 15s. 1d. says Walter Whittlesey, [p. - 162]. this was about 1316. July 10, 1729, the reverend Mr. Welby - of Scaleford gave me a coin or two, Roman, found near the Foss at - Crocolana; one remarkably corroded, seemingly of Corinthian brass. - -[92] Turketil Hoche gave it, says Hugo Candidus. - - I saw two Roman coins found at Crocolana, 28. Apr. 1728. There is a - long old wall. - -[93] April 28, 1728, I saw at Newark two Roman coins, lately found at - Brough: they say there is a long old wall there. - -[94] Mr. Twells of Newark sent me four Roman coins dug up in the fields - by Newark; a Magnentius, pretty fair; reverse, P. Antoninus Pius; two - large Trajans, but defaced. - - I guess Newark was built in the later Roman times, for its - commodiousness upon the Trent, and exhausted the neighbouring Brough: - both being destroyed by the plundering Danes, perhaps were repaired - in after-ages, and called Newark. - - My cousin, Edmund Dickenson esq. gave me a large brass Verus found in - Newark fields, 1729, obliterated; an Hadrian found there. - - Oct. 7. 1731, I satisfied myself that this was the long-sought-for - episcopal see called _Sidnacester_. - - I saw a gold Gratian, reverse, +VICTORIA AUG. G.+ found at Thoroton; - in my brother Collins’s possession. The rev. Mr. Guy, of Long - Benington, says they find Roman coins in the fields thereabouts. - -[95] Newark castle built by Alexander bishop of Lincoln. - -[96] April 17, 1730, I heard, in the neighbourhood, of Roman pavements - dug up there, and coins. Burton, in his _Leicestershire_, speaks of - antiquities found here. - - Upon the Foss-way hereabouts was found a large and fine medallion of - Corinthian brass inclosed with wax: among other coins, the head of - the emperor +M. ANTONINUS AUG. TRP. XXVII.+ reverse, the head of his - son +COMMODUS CÆS. GERM. ANTONINI AUG. GERM. FIL.+ it is of that kind - of medals called _contorniati_. I think it was found in an urn, with - a coin or two more. - -[97] At this camp of _Vernometum_, as in divers others, the two - _brachia_ advancing inwards of the gate, verge a little to the left: - the design of it, as I apprehend, is to expose so much the more the - right side of an enemy entering, who have their shields on their left. - -[98] A Roman pavement found, 1721, at Medburn cum Holt, near - Harborough, Leicestershire. - -[99] Mr. Lee of Leicester informs me of a Roman urn, in his possession, - found at High-cross; digging for a vault in the church, for the late - lord Denbigh, they found a dozen of them covered with Roman bricks. - -[100] _Cincl squit, natio Guidelia_, the Irish nation: so they now call - themselves. - -[101] Near Bensford bridge and Lutterworth, a vast quantity of silver - Roman coins found anno 1725, now in possession of Mr. Walter - Reynolds, steward to lord Denbygh of Lutterworth. I saw many of - Trajan, Hadrian, Nerva, Vespasian, two large brass Trajans. Feb. 9. - 1726, I saw the following in silver. - - Vespasianus Aug. _reverse_, Judæa. _A prisoner under a - trophy_ - ———————————————— pon. max. tr. p. cos. v. _A caduceus._ - Vesp. Aug. imp. Cæsar pontif. maxim. _A caduceus._ - Imp. Cæs. Vesp. Aug. Cen. pontif. max sedens cum hasta in dex. - flore in læva - Vespasianus Cæsar _a sow and three pigs._ imp. III. - Imp. Cæs. Ner. Trajan optm. Aug. _rev._ p. m. tr. p. cos. S. p. q. r. - Ger. &c. _A genius of plenty_ - Imp. Cæs. Nerva Trajan Aug. Germ. pont. max. tr. pot. cos. II. Genius - sedens - Imp. Cæs. Nerva Trajan Aug. Germ. p. m. tr. p. cos. IIII. p. f. _A genius - of plenty_ - Imp. Cæs. Trajan p. m. tr. p. cos. II. justitia. Genius - sedens - Trajano Aug. Ger. Dac. S. p. q. r. opt. principi. _Genius of - plenty._ - Imp. Trajano Aug. Ger. Dac. p. m. cos. v. p. p. s. p. q. r. opt. princ. - tr. p. Genius cum pavone - Trajano Aug. Ger. Dac. p. m. tr. p. S. p. q. r. optimo principi. Mars - cos. II. p. p. gradivus - Imp. Trajano Aug. Ger. Dac. p. m. S. p. q. r. optimo principi. Genius - tr. p. cos. V. p. p. sacrificans - Imp. Trajano Aug. Ger. Dac. p. m. S. p. q. r. optimo principi. Columna - tr. p. cos. VI. p. p. Trajana - 4 - +ANTXAICNETPAIANOCCEBTEPM+ ΔΗΜΕΣ IIIII - 0 0 - Imp. Trajano Aug. Ger. Dac. p. m. S. p. q. r. optimo principi. Genius cum - tr. p. cos. V. p. p. bilance - Imp. Trajano Aug. Ger. Dac. p. m. S. p. q. r. optimo principi. Genius cum - tr. p. cos. VI. p. p. puero - Imp. Trajano Aug. Ger Dac. p. m. tr. cos. VI. p. p. s. p. q. r. opt pr. Vesta - p. sed. cum victoriola - Imp. Trajano Aug. Ger. Dac. p. m. cos. V. p. p. s. p. q. r. opt. pr. - tr. p. Genius stans cum prora - Imp. Cæsar Trajan Hadrianus Aug. p. m. tr. p. cos. III. Genius cum - caduceo - Imp. Cæsar Trajan Hadrianus Aug. p. m. tr. p. cos. III. _A female in the - posture of imploring_ - Hadrianus Aug. cos. m. p. p. salus Aug. Hygeia - Hadrianus Augustus cos. III. Genius armatus sedens - Imp. Cæsar Trajan Hadrianus Aug. p. m. tr. p. cos. III. _a genius with - two bustos in her hands_ - Hadrianus Aug. cos. III. p. p. Africa Genia Nili procumbens - Imp. Cæsar Trajan Hadrianus Aug. p. m. tr. p. cos. III. Genius sedens - sacrificans - Imp. Cæsar Trajan Hadrianus Aug. p. m. tr. p. cos. Fortuna sedens cum - prora - Imp. Cæsar Trajan Hadrianus Aug. p. m. tr. p. cos. III. Genius nudus - sacrificans - Hadrianus Augustus cos. +III.+ Hercules sedens cum - victoriola - —————————————————— ——————————— Victoria sedens - Imp. Cæsar Trajan Hadrianus Aug. p. m. tr. p. cos. III. Fortuna stans - Hadrianus Aug. cos. III. p. p. moneta Aug. Genius cum bilance - Imp. Cæsar Trajan Hadrianus Aug. p. m. tr. p. cos. III. salus. Hygeia - sedens - ——————————————————————————————————— ————————————— Genius nudus sacrificans - Antoninus Augustus p. p. _reverse_, cos. pulvinar cum fulmine - ælius Cæsar tr. pot. cos. II. Concord. victoria - sedens - Faustina Vesta pulvinar - Sabina Augusta Concordia Aug. genia stans cum patera - - These being all of the higher empire, and many excellently well cut, - indicate that they were hid early, and perhaps about this time, that - the Watling-street was made: they were found in a hole in the fields - between Loughborow and the Watling-street, with about a dozen more - than here described. - - Wickliff lived at Lutterworth, his picture in the parsonage. Mr. - Button of Kimcote, near here, a curious man. Wickliff’s pulpit still - left. A petrifying spring at Lutterworth. - -[102] _Magus_ rather signifies originally a field, or plain, and where - probably the old Britons had their religious ceremonies, sports, - and races, &c. the barrows too hereabout indicate here has been an - ancient British temple, and I suppose the name of _Long Meg and her - daughters_, at the British temple in Cumberland, only the remains of - the original name _Magus_. - -[103] In Speed’s History of England, p. 261. Maiden Bower by the - sea-coast in Norfolk, where Hunstanton was built. This was - undoubtedly a Roman camp there. - -[104] At the same time and place, the king, and Bertuald archbishop of - Canterbury, held a council and enacted canons. - - K. Henry I. kept his court here, 1122. as Hen. Hunt says, p. 218. - _b._ - -[105] A brass Roman _lar_ dug up about Grosvenor square (in - possession of Mr. Beaupre Bell) near where the Roman road ran, the - Watling-street. - -[106] May place, west of Crayford, seems _Noviomagus_. Oct. 1722, many - Roman coins found in an urn near Croydon. - -[107] Rochester was a very strong place, and the water went quite round - it. - -[108] Bishop Gundulf died 1108. - -[109] The river Medvacus runs through Vicenza, a city in Italy, built - by the Gauls. I suppose our present Britons, or Welsh, are Gauls, the - same as Cæsar conquered; that the oldest Britons are the Irish, who - are much of Phœnician original, and part of the shepherds banished - Africa, and who came along with Hercules Ægyptus, Assis, Melcartus, - who built Carteja or Cadiz, and civilized the Celtic nations, - remembered by the Gauls under the name of Hercules Ogmius. - -[110] I find in this country, that the word _Chart_ generally imports - some works of antiquity. Chartway from E. Sutton to Munchilsey. - -[111] In Stone church are many Roman bricks. - -[112] The name of Watling-street, as it passes through the city, is - almost lost by the negligence of the inhabitants, who generally of - late call it Beer-cart lane. - -[113] The ground east of Canterbury is sandy, and favourable for hops. - -[114] In this port landed St. Augustin, the apostle of our Saxon - ancestors. - -[115] Vitruvius directs the gates of cities to be made oblique. This - was called _Madan_ gate, from the figure of a _woman_ over it, as the - vulgar fancy. - -[116] There are a great number of large barrows about Sandwich; one - at Winsborough, with a tree upon it; so it is called by the vulgar, - but the learned make it Wodnesborough: between that and Sandwich is - another, called Marvil hill. - -[117] Among the sand-hills by Sandwich I found a curious plant, which - I take to be the _satyrium abortivum_, or bird’s-nest of Gerard: it - has a bulbous root of a red colour; the stem sometimes a foot long, - whitish like young asparagus, and almost naked; a great spike of - white flowers, of the cucullate sort, with a black _apex_: they are - exceeding odoriferous. I found much _eryngo_ there, which smells - pleasantly when broke; and on all the banks of the ditches hereabouts - garden-fennel grows in great plenty. - - Sandwich is in a miserable, decayed condition, following apace the - downfall of its mother _Rutupium_: it might easily be made the best - harbour on this coast, by cutting a new channel for the river about - a mile and half through the sand-hills south easterly; for the water - of the river Stour would sufficiently scour it, did it run strait, - and with that direction. All the walls and bulworks of the town are - dismantled, the gates tumbling down; and a few cannon lie scattered - here and there. This town likewise might be made very strong; for, - besides the river Stour, another rivulet runs through it, that would - keep the ditches always full. - -[118] At Hardres place, the seat of Sir William Hardres, lay king Henry - VIII. when going upon his expedition at Boloign: he left his picture - here, and an old dagger, very broad, and about as long as a Roman - sword: the handle is of silver gilt and enamelled, with mottos on it. - The old gates of this seat were the gates of Boloign, brought thence - at that siege by Sir William’s ancestor, who accompanied the king. - -[119] By St. Margaret’s are many natural cavities in the chalk cliffs, - and an admirable large spring arising from the beach with great force - when the tide is out. - -[120] To Dover from Canterbury the Watling-street is still the common - way: it is left intire over Barham downs, with a high ridge strait - pointing to Canterbury cathedral tower: as soon as it enters the - downs it traverses a group of Celtic barrows, then leaves a small - camp of Cæsar’s: further on it has been basely inclosed through - two fields, and levelled with ploughing: then it passes by a great - single barrow, whereon stood the mill, which is now removed higher - up: then it ascends the hill to a hedge corner, where are three - barrows, a great one between two little ones, all inclosed with a - double square intrenchment of no great bulk: I fancy them Roman, - because parallel to, and close by, the Roman road: the great barrow - has a cavity at top, and an entrance eastward; whether casually, or - with design, I know not. At Lyddon the Watling-street falls into - that noble valley of Dover, made of two huge ridges of chalk, which - divide themselves into lesser valleys, dropping into the great one at - regular distances, as the little leaves of plants meet at the main - stem: this valley, when viewed from the end, looks like a landscape - on scenes lessening, according to perspective, to Dover, between - the two _Phari_ and the sea at the end, inclosed between them. The - street slides along the northern declivity, crosses the rivulet which - wanders through the midst of the valley at Buckland, so to Biggin - gate, where is its termination, by the side of the old port, having - now run from Chester about 250 miles. Many barrows on the sides of - those hills. - -[121] Such a Roman _Pharos_ at Damiata in Egypt, the view of it in Le - Brun, plate 70. letter A. - -[122] I suppose likewise that the sails of ships ought to be narrower - at top, where they are fastened to the yard’s arm, broader at bottom, - like a cloke; and so they are ordinarily made in some measure. - -[123] At Folkstone the famous Dr. Harvey was born, ob. 1657. - -[124] The seat of Ostenhanger, through the park whereof the - Stone-street runs to Limne, was a noble building: they sold it lately - for 1000 pounds to a mason, who pulled it all down. An inscription of - the chapel there is now made a stone step in the house of Mr. Smith - of Stanford; thus copied by Mr. Godfrey: - - IVIL. V. ET. XX A LINCARNATION NOSTRE CHRIST ET LE XII. ANNE DV - TRES HAULT ET TRES SANT ET TRES EXCELLENT PRINCE NOSTRE - ET ROY HĒR̄̅Y VIII A LE HONEVR DV DIEV ET DE LA GLORIEUSE - VIERGE MARIE FVT FAICTE ET ACHEVEE CESTE CHAPELLE PAR MESSIRE EDOVARD - POYNINGS CHEVALIER DE LA NOBLE ORDRE DV GARTIER ET CONTRE ROYLER DE - LA MASON DV ROY CVY DIEV DDINT SA GRACE ET BONNE VIE ET LONGVE ET - PARADIS A LA FIN AMEN. - -[125] Asclepiades says Boreas, a king of the Celts, planted an unknown - tree on the _tumulus_ of his daughter _Cyparissa_; whence the name of - it, and its funeral use. Trees planted on Protesilaus’s sepulchre, - Pliny, XVI. 44. So an oak on Illus’s _tumulus_, ibid. so on the tomb - of Amycus king of the Bebrycians, _ibid._ - -[126] St. Martin’s day, in the Norway clogs, is marked with a goose; - for on that day they always feasted with a roasted goose: they say - St. Martin, being elected to a bishoprick, hid himself, but was - discovered by that animal. We have transferred the ceremony to - Michaelmas. Sumner’s glossary, voce ᵹe-beoꞃꞅciꞃe, mentions the _alæ_ - of the northern people, meaning such a religious ceremony as we have - been speaking of: and, if one consults Skinner’s _Etymologicon_ for - the derivation of our word _ale_, we may be apt to suspect it is most - reasonable to refer it to this custom, from the incongruity of his. - -[127] This work on the outside of the gates is called _titulus_ by - Hyginus: he orders it to be sixty foot distant from the gate. The - word and thing, whether round or square, is analogous to our modern - priest-cap, as called: perhaps it should be _tutulus_. - -[128] Captain Madox sent me some Roman coins; a Maximian pretty large, - LON ; with an instrument of brass. - -[129] In Weekfield, much foundations of houses, coins, &c. - -[130] Divitiacus, king of the Gauls, had a great command in Britain, in - _Belgium_, and seems to have given his name to the Devizes, upon his - frontier. - - Wells remains of the _Belgæ_. - -[131] A most noble busto in brass found at the Bath, anno 1727. Mr. - Gale says it is not easy to know whether it be a man’s or a woman’s: - I suppose it is the Genius of the city, buried there for luck sake. - Such another found in the middle of Paris, very deep, with a mural - crown on; and such a one had ours, the holes being visible where it - was fastened. - -[132] In the public papers, Jan. 1722–3, at Corton, Somersetshire, a - small Roman urn full of coins, Valerian, Gallienus, Aurelian, in the - hands of Mr. Tho. Nash, rector there. - -[133] Some have had a notion that Joseph of Arimathea was buried at - Montague hill, not at Glasenbury; but if Joseph ever was in Britain, - it is most likely he was buried really at Glasenbury: and probably - it is Simon the Zealot, or Canaanite, one of our Saviour’s apostles, - that is buried at Montague; the two stories being confounded, and - perhaps two made of one: for that Simon preached in Britain, wrought - miracles here, was martyred and buried in Britain, we have the - express testimony, and very ancient, of Nicephorus, Dorotheus, the - Greek Monologies, wherein he is said to be crucified and buried there. - -[134] A broad Roman sword found here, 1688. Here is a spring. - -[135] Alexander, at building Alexandria, marked the track of the walls - with bread-corn. - -[136] Urbs primum in medio regionis maximè condatur, delecto in loco - qui cæteras quoque opportunitates complectatur, quas & concipere & - designare minimè difficile est; deinde in partes duodecim distributio - fiat, ut Vestae prima Jovique atque Minervæ consecretur; & illa urbis - pars Arx nuncupetur, & septo diligenter muniatur: & ex eo urbem & - regionem in duodecim partes distribuant: vici præterea in 12 partes - erunt distribuendi, sicuti & cæteræ civium facultates ut ex 12 - partium constitutione cursuum lustrationes commodius peragi possint: - 12 quoque partes 12 diis erunt deinceps attribuendæ; & unaquæque - pars, ex ejus dei nomine cui illa obtigerit, erit nuncupanda, ut - tribus ipsa sit suo & tutelari deo cognominata; sed ut 12 urbis - membra, sicuti in reliqua regione factum est, singulatim in duas - habitationes fuerunt dividenda, quarum una circa medium sit, altera - circa extremum; & habitationis quidem ordo & ratio hunc in modum - conformetur.—All this Plato learnt from the Jewish œconomy. - -[137] It pleases me to inquire the names of these old things, however - aukward. Quære, Whether it means the name of the person buried there, - or the god worshipped there, _Baal_, _Belinus_; or that it signifies - only an eminence, _bal_, _fal_? - -[138] _Opus tessellatum_ found in the castle. - -[139] Eubulus greeteth thee, and Pudens, and Linus, and Claudia, and - all the brethren.—See Fuller’s Church History, and Usher. - -[140] Mr. Terry of Lincoln tells me, at Tangham near Farnham, - innumerable Roman coins, urns, and antiquities, are dug up every - where in hedge-rows: vast quantities of them, which he got, he - gave to Oxford. This perhaps was the site of _Calleva_. Many - pillars, pilasters, capitals, bases, marble tables, &c. dug up there - continually; many in possession of George Woodroff, esq. late owner - of the estate: he had many pecks of coins found there. - -[141] A large parcel of it, a quarter of a mile long, is still perfect - to the east of the brook, where the powder mills are on Hounslow - heath, where the common road goes southward to pass it. - -[142] The _via Trinovantica_. - -[143] November, 1731, a labourer dug up an urn full of silver Roman - coin, at Turnham green, as repeated in the public prints. - -[144] Stanes was fenced round with a ditch. - - - Transcriber’s Notes: - - - Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_). - - Text enclosed by pluses is in small caps (+Small Caps+). - - Text enclosed by asterisks is in blackletter font (*blackletter*). - - A table of contents has been added. - - Blank pages have been removed. - - Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected. - - There is no plate #56. - - Errata from Vol. II. have been applied. - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ITINERARIUM CURIOSUM (CENTURIA -I) *** - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the -United States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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- padding-left: inherit; - margin-top: inherit; - line-height: inherit; - } - - /* === Abreviation: no underline, no color === */ - abbr { - border: none; - text-decoration: none; - } - - /* === Transcriber's notes === */ - ul.spaced li { - padding-top: 1%; - list-style-type: disc; - } - - .transnote { - background-color: #E6E6FA; - border: 1px solid black; - color: black; - font-size: smaller; - padding: 0.5em; - margin-bottom: 5em; - font-family: sans-serif; - } - - .sidenote, .x-ebookmaker .sidenote { - text-align: left; - text-indent: 0; - padding: 0; - width: 8em; - min-width: 8em; - margin: 1% -8.5em 0 0; - float: right; - clear: right; /* keep elements separate from each other */ - font-size: 75%; - line-height: 1.0em; - font-weight: normal; - } - - </style> -</head> - -<body> -<p style='text-align:center; font-size:1.2em; font-weight:bold'>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Itinerarium Curiosum (Centuria I), by William Stukeley</p> -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online -at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you -are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this eBook. -</div> - -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: Itinerarium Curiosum (Centuria I)</p> -<p style='display:block; margin-left:2em; text-indent:0; margin-top:0; margin-bottom:1em;'>or, An account of the antiquities, and remarkable curiosities in nature or art, observed in travels through Great Britain</p> -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: William Stukeley</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: December 29, 2022 [eBook #69657]</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</p> - <p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; text-align:left'>Produced by: Tim Lindell, Robert Tonsing and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)</p> -<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ITINERARIUM CURIOSUM (CENTURIA I) ***</div> - - <figure class="x-ebookmaker-drop"> - <img class="illowp75" src="images/cover.jpg" alt=""> - </figure> - - <div class="transnote mt5"> - <div class="large center"><b>Transcriber’s Notes:</b></div> - <ul class="spaced"> - <li>A table of contents has been added.</li> - <li>Blank pages have been removed.</li> - <li>Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected.</li> - <li>Font 'Old English Text MT' is recommended to view blackletter text.</li> - <li>Some illustrations with internal text have "See transcription" links to the text at the end of the book.</li> - <li>Family tree illustrations have "See transcription" links to tables with the transcribed text, in approximate arrangement.</li> - <li>Errata from Vol. II. have been applied.</li> - <li>There is no plate #56.</li> - </ul> - </div> - - <figure id="i_frontis1"> - <img class="illowp75" src="images/i_frontispiece_1.jpg" alt="Wm. Stukeley M.D."> - </figure> - - <figure class="illowp75 mt5" id="i_frontis2"> - <img src="images/i_frontispiece_2.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"> <i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <figcaption class="smcap clear">Itinerarivm. Cvriosvm.<br>Centvria. i.</figcaption> - </figure> - - <hr class="chap"> - <div class="titlepage"> - <h1><span class="xxlarge"><span class="gesperrt">ITINERARIUM CURIOSUM</span>:</span><br> - <span class="xsmall"><span class="gesperrt1">OR</span>,</span><br> - <span class="small gesperrt">AN ACCOUNT OF THE</span><br> - <span class="gesperrt">ANTIQUITIES</span>,<br> - <span class="small gesperrt1">AND REMARKABLE</span><br> - <span class="xxlarge gesperrt2">CURIOSITIES</span><br> - <span class="small gesperrt1">IN</span><br> - <span class="medium"><span class="gesperrt2">NATURE </span><span class="xsmall">OR</span><span class="gesperrt2"> ART</span>,</span><br> - <span class="small">OBSERVED IN TRAVELS THROUGH</span><br> - <span class="gesperrt">GREAT BRITAIN</span>.</h1> - - <div class="small mb5"><b>ILLUSTRATED WITH COPPER PLATES.</b></div> - - <hr class="wide"> - <div class="large mt2 mb2"><b><span class="gesperrt2">CENTURIA I</span>.</b></div> - <hr class="wide"> - - <div class="mt3 mb3 lh1"><b><span class="gesperrt2">THE SECOND EDITION</span>,<br> - <span class="gesperrt1">WITH LARGE ADDITIONS</span>.</b></div> - - <hr class="wide"> - <div class="mt2 mb2"><b>By WILLIAM STUKELEY, M.D. F.R. & A.S.</b></div> - <hr class="wide"> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza" lang="la"> - <div class="i0"><i>O Patria, O Divûm domus, Albion, inclyta bello!</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>O quam te memorem, quantum juvat usque morari</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Mirarique tuæ spectacula plurima terræ!</i></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <hr class="wide thick mt1"> - <hr class="wide mt0"> - - <div class="lh1 mt2"> - <span class="gesperrt2">LONDON</span>:<br> - Printed for Messrs. <span class="smcap">Baker</span> and <span class="smcap">Leigh</span>, - in York-Street, Covent-Garden.<br> - <span class="small">M.DCC.LXXVI.</span></div> - </div> - - <hr class="wide thick mt10"> - <hr class="wide mt0"> - <h2 class="xxxlarge">Table of Contents.</h2> - <div class="center-container"> - <ul class="mt0" style="text-align: left;"> - <li><a href="#PREFACE">PREFACE</a></li> - <li><a href="#ITINERARIUM_DOMESTICUM">ITER DOMESTICUM. I.</a></li> - <li><a href="#ITER_OXONIENSE">ITER OXONIENSE. II.</a></li> - <li><a href="#ITER_CIMBRICUM">ITER CIMBRICUM. III.</a></li> - <li><a href="#ITER_SABRINIUM">ITER SABRINIUM. IV.</a></li> - <li><a href="#ITER_ROMANUM">ITER ROMANUM. V.</a></li> - <li><a href="#ITER_DUMNONIENSE">ITER DUMNONIENSE. VI.</a></li> - <li><a href="#ITER_SEPTIMUM_ANTONINI_AUG">ITER SEPTIMUM ANTONINI AUG. VII.</a></li> - <li><a href="#PLATES">THE PLATES</a></li> - <li><a href="#INDEX">INDEX</a></li> - </ul> - </div> - - <hr class="wide thick mt10"> - <hr class="wide mt0"> - <h2 class="xxxlarge" id="PREFACE"><span class="gesperrt3">PREFACE</span>.</h2> - - <p class="drop-cap">THE intent of this Treatise is to oblige the curious in the Antiquities - of Britain: it is an account of places and things from inspection, not - compiled from others’ labours, or travels in one’s study. I own it is a - work crude and hasty, like the notes of a traveller that stays not long - in a place; and such it was in reality. Many matters I threw in only - as hints for further scrutiny, and memorandums for myself or others: - above all, I avoided prejudice, never carrying any author along with - me, but taking things in the natural order and manner they presented - themselves: and if my sentiments of Roman stations, and other matters, - happen not to coincide with what has been wrote before me; it was - not that I differ from them, but things did not so appear to me. The - prints, beside their use in illustrating the discourses, are ranged in - such a manner as to become an index of inquiries for those that travel, - or for a British Antiquary. I shall probably continue this method at - reasonable intervals. The whole is to invite Gentlemen and others in - the country, to make researches of this nature, and to acquaint the - world with them: they may be assured, that whatever accounts of this - sort they please to communicate to me, they shall be applied to proper - use, and all due honour paid to the names of those that favour me with - a correspondence so much to the glory and benefit of our country, which - is my sole aim therein.</p> - - <p>It is evident how proper engravings are to preserve the memory of - things, and how much better an idea they convey to the mind than - written descriptions, which often not at all, oftener not sufficiently, - explain them: beside, they present us with the pleasure of observing - the various changes in the face of nature, of countries, and the - like, through the current of time and vicissitude of things. These - embellishments are the chief <em>desiderata</em> of the excellent Mr. - Camden’s <cite>Britannia</cite>, and other writers of this sort, whose pens - were not so ready to deliver their sentiments in lines as letters: and - how hard it is for common artificers to draw from mere description, - or to express well what they understand not, is obvious from our - engravings in all sciences. I am sensible enough, that large allowances - must be made for my own performances in this kind, and some for the - artificers parts therein, who, for want of more practice in such works, - cannot equal others abroad. I know not whether it will be an excuse, or - a fault, if I should plead the expedition I used in the drawing part; - but I may urge, that a private person, and a moderate fortune, may want - many useful assistants and conveniences for that purpose. It is enough - for me to point them out; to show things that are fine in themselves, - and want little art to render them more agreeable, or that deserve to - be better done; or any way to contribute toward retrieving the noble - monuments of our ancestors; in which case only, we are behind other - the learned nations in Europe. It is not that we have a less fund of - curiosities than they, were the description of them attempted by an - abler hand, and more adequate experience.</p> - - <p>Two or three of the plates are inserted only as heads, being not - referred to in the discourse, as Tab. VIII. the ground-plot of the - ruins of Whitehall. I myself never saw the palace, but was pleased - that I chanced to take this draught of its ruinous ichnography, but - the very week before totally destroyed. Thus much I thought owing to - the venerable memory of that name, which is ever the word at sea with - British ships, and which makes the whole world tremble. Tab. X. is an - ancient seal of the bishops of Norwich.<a id="FNanchor_1" href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> This plate the learned and - curious Mr. le Neve, Norroy king at arms, lent me out of his good will - to promote the work: the seal is remarkable for having letters upon the - edge, represented in the empty ringlet; the manner of it is like our - milled money; but how it was performed in wax, is not easy to say. Tab. - XV. was likewise lent me by Mr. Norroy abovesaid. I design always, in - these collections of mine, to insert one plate in a hundred, of some - person’s <em>effigies</em> that has deserved well of the antiquities of - Britain: it is but a just piece of gratitude to their - memory. Tab. XL. (the Greek view at Athens) I took from an original - drawing in Mr. Talman’s collection. I have some more of that sort: - though they relate not to Britain, I do not fear the reader will be - displeased with me on that account. How much rather ought we to lament - the scarcity of such! What noble monuments of Greece are sunk into - eternal oblivion, through want of Drawing in travellers that have been - there in great numbers, or for want of encouragement to those that - are able! With what regret do I mention that most beautiful temple of - Minerva in the citadel of Athens, without dispute the finest building - upon the globe, <i>anno</i> 1694! that year it was casually blown up - with gunpowder, and not a drawing of it preserved.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp75 mb4" id="i_iv_1"> - <div class="plateno"><i>15</i></div> - <img src="images/i_iv_1.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attr"><i>Guil: Faithorne Sculp:</i></div> - <figcaption class="clear"><i>HENRICUS SPELMANNUS.<br>Eques Auratus.</i></figcaption> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp75 mb4" id="i_iv_2"> - <div class="plateno"><i>8</i></div> - <div class="smcap"><b>Palaces.</b></div> - <img src="images/i_iv_2.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>JV<sup>der</sup> Gucht Sculp</i></div> - <figcaption><i>The Groundplot of the Ruins of Whitehall June 14. 1718.</i></figcaption> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_iv_3"> - <div class="plateno"><i>10</i></div> - <img src="images/i_iv_3.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attr"><i>I. Harris sculp<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <figcaption class=""><i>Ex autographo penes Maiorem et Com̃unitat.<br>Villæ Lenne Regis in Com Norff.</i></figcaption> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_v_1"> - <div class="plateno"><i>40</i></div> - <div class="caption"><i>A View at Athens.</i></div> - <img src="images/i_v_1.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>I. Harris sculp</i></div> - <div class="small"><i>Ex collectionᵉ Jo<span class="bt">his</span> Talman Ar.</i></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_v_2"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>101·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <div class="small clear"><span class="col50"><i><b>A View of the Temple of the Winds at Athens.</b></i></span> - <span class="col50"><i><b>A Lyon Cast in brass standing by y<sup>e</sup> Port of Athens.</b></i></span></div> - <img src="images/i_v_2.jpg" alt=""> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp75 mb4" id="i_v_3"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>102. 2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <div><i><b>The Temple of Minerva at Syracuse.</b></i></div> - <img src="images/i_v_3a.jpg" alt=""> - <hr class="full"> - <div><i><b>The Ichnography of the same Temple.</b></i></div> - <img src="images/i_v_3b.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_v_4"> - <div class="plateno"><i>100</i></div> - <div><b><i>Insignis Synodus quinq, Planetarum Anno 1722, Mense Decembrifacta ad ho:7 .matutinas.<br> - Gradus Sigittary.</i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_v_4.jpg" alt=""> - <figcaption><i>Celeberrimo Hallejo Astronomo Regio tabulam reddit L. M. W<sup>s</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span> Stukeley.</i></figcaption> - </figure> - - <p>The last plate, of the great conjunction of the five planets, I added - as an <em>æra</em> of my book. This memorable appearance, because it - affected not the vulgar like a solar eclipse, was almost neglected - by the learned. I had a mind to do it justice by printing the type - of it from the diagram sent me by the great Dr. Halley. For my part, - I congratulate myself for living in an age fruitful of these grand - phænomena of the celestial bodies, and am pleased, that beside the - total eclipse 1715, we have in the space of two years this great - conjunction, a transit of Mercury across the sun, a comet, the last - eclipse of the sun, and in March next another great conjunction.</p> - - <p>The numerous plates I have given the reader, of ground-plots and - prospects of Roman cities, I thought contributed much towards fixing - their site, and preserving their memory: they may be useful to curious - inhabitants, in marking the places where antiquities are found from - time to time, and in other respects. There are some few errors of the - press escaped me, notwithstanding all my care; but none, I think, of - any consequence. I have taken care to make the Index as instructing - as I could. The title of <em>Roman roads</em> belongs to such as are - anonymous, or not commonly taken notice of: that of <em>Roman coins</em> - points to such places as are not Roman towns, or particularly - described. <em>Etymology</em> includes only such words as are scattered - casually in the work, or matters that are not comprehended under any - other head; and so of the rest.</p> - - <p>One general observation I have made within the short space of time - my travels were limited to, that husbandry, grazing, cultivation of - waste lands, all sorts of trades and manufactures, towns and cities, - are hugely improved; and especially the multitude of inhabitants is - increased to a high proportion: the reason of it is not difficult to be - guessed at.</p> - - <p>What I shall next trouble the reader withall, will be my intended work, - of the history of the ancient Celts, particularly the first inhabitants - of Great Britain, which for the most part is now finished. By what I - can judge at present, it will consist of four books in folio. I. The - history of the origin and passage of the Celts from Asia into the west - of Europe, particularly into Britain; of their manners, language, &c. - II. Of the religion, deities, priests, temples, and sacred rites, of - the Celts. III. Of the great Celtic temple at Abury in Wiltshire, and - others of that sort. IV. Of the celebrated Stonehenge. There will be - above 300 copper plates of a folio size, many of which are already - engraven; and many will be of much larger dimensions. Upon account, - therefore, of the vast expence attending this work, I shall print no - more than are subscribed for; the money to be paid to me only. Thus - much I thought fit to advertise the friendly reader.</p> - - <p class="right mb3"><i>Ormond-street, 26 Dec. 1724.</i></p> - - <hr class="full thick"> - <hr class="full mb2"> - <p class="center xlarge bold"><span class="gesperrt">GULIELMO STUKELEY, <i>M. D.</i></span><br> - <i>Amicus Amico</i>, &c.</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza italics" lang="la"> - <div class="i0 drop-cap">LUbrica Romani dum Tu monumenta pererras</div> - <div class="i1">Nominis, & tacito saecula lapsa pede:</div> - <div class="i0">Docte opifex, variis seu vim sermonibus addas,</div> - <div class="i2">Seu placet artifici pagina picta manu;</div> - <div class="i0">Quanta vetustatis summae miracula promis,</div> - <div class="i2">Obrutaque indigno moenia celsa situ!</div> - <div class="i0">Vindice Te, fossas video procedere longas.</div> - <div class="i2">Per loca constratum devia ducit iter.</div> - <div class="i0">Nunc via sublimi conscendit vertice montes,</div> - <div class="i2">Flumina declivis nunc per aperta ruit.</div> - <div class="i0">Castra quot immenso retegis constructa labore?</div> - <div class="i2">Et tua non sinit ars oppida posse mori.</div> - <div class="i0">Hic mira antiquae pendent compagine portae,</div> - <div class="i2">Hic tremulo fulget lumine grata pharos.</div> - <div class="i0">Celsior exsurgit chartis Romana potestas</div> - <div class="i2">Clara tuis; ultro est fassa ruina decus.</div> - <div class="i0">Ecce iterum ingenti pandunt curvamine sedes,</div> - <div class="i2">Et plausu resonant amphitheatra novo.</div> - <div class="i0">Roma triumphato jamdudum languida mundo</div> - <div class="i2">Nequicquam invictam se superesse dolet.</div> - <div class="i0">Nec te dira cohors morborum sola tremiscit,</div> - <div class="i2">Ast tempus medicas sentit inerme manus.</div> - <div class="i0">Quantum Roma tibi, quantum Brittannia debet.</div> - <div class="i2">O ingens patriae, Romulidumque decus!</div> - <div class="i0">Accipe Phoebea merito dignissime lauro,</div> - <div class="i2">Sint, quæ das aliis, saecula sera tibi.</div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="right">I. S.</p> - - <hr class="full mt3 mb2"> - <div class="center xlarge bold"><span class="gesperrt">GULIELMO STUKELEY, <i>M. D.</i></span> &c.</div> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza italics" lang="la"> - <div class="i0 drop-cap">NEC sola est medicina Tui, sed Apolline dignam</div> - <div class="i1">Artem omnem recolis, mente, manuque potens.</div> - <div class="i0">Non modo restituis senio morbisque gravatos,</div> - <div class="i2">Ad vitam reddis sæcla sepulta diu.</div> - <div class="i0">Te Lindensis ager gestit celebrare nepotem,</div> - <div class="i2">Quæque dedit, patriæ lumina grate refers.</div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="right"><span class="gesperrt">GEOR. LYNN</span>, Interior. Templ. Soc.</p> - - <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_viii">viii</span></p> - - <hr class="full mt3 mb2"> - <p class="hang large bold" lang="la">In Itinerarium Curiosum amici sui charissima viri doctissimi & Cl. - Domini <span class="smcap">Gulielmi Stukeleii</span> M. D. CML. SRS. & Antiquar. - Secretar.</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza italics" lang="la"> - <div class="i0 drop-cap">O Jane bifrons! Temporis inclyte</div> - <div class="i1">Vindex remoti, de superis videns</div> - <div class="i8">Post terga solus, nunc adesto et</div> - <div class="i8">Egregium tueare amicum</div> - <div class="i0">Opusque. templi janua sit tui</div> - <div class="i0">Serata, dum ex bis nostra quietior</div> - <div class="i4">Discat juventus, quid avorum</div> - <div class="i4">Indomitæ potuere dextræ.</div> - <div class="i0">Quicquid Britannus ferre recusans</div> - <div class="i0">Servile collo Romulidum jugum,</div> - <div class="i4">Terra sua contentus egit,</div> - <div class="i4">Artibus ingenitis beatus.</div> - <div class="i0">Quicquid Quirites gentibus asperis</div> - <div class="i0">Cultu renidens tradere providi:</div> - <div class="i4">Victoriam, Musasque & artes,</div> - <div class="i4">Arma simul rapiente dextra.</div> - <div class="i0">Nec vestra omittit pagina Saxonem</div> - <div class="i0">Sicâ timendum, relligionibus</div> - <div class="i4">Valde revinctum: bellicosis</div> - <div class="i4">Horribilemve Dacum carinis.</div> - <div class="i0">Nec tu recondis facta silentio</div> - <div class="i0">Præclara Normanni immemor inclyti;</div> - <div class="i4">Quorum omnium est imbutus Anglus</div> - <div class="i4">Sanguine, moribus, & vigore.</div> - <div class="i0">Quæ mira doctus condidit artifex</div> - <div class="i0">Excelsa prisci mœnia seculi,</div> - <div class="i4">Quæ strata, pontes, templa, castra,</div> - <div class="i4">Amphitheatra, asarota, turres!</div> - <div class="i0">Plaudit sibi jam magna Britannia</div> - <div class="i0">Antiqua splendet gloria denuo.</div> - <div class="i4">Chartis resurgit Stivecleji</div> - <div class="i4">Celsa canens iterum triumphos.</div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="right"><span style="margin-right: 1.1em;">MAUR. JOHNSON, J. C.</span><br> - Interioris Templi Soc. <span class="allsmcap">MDCCXXIV.</span></p> - - <hr class="full mt3 mb2"> - <div class="center large bold">In <span class="gesperrt"><span class="smcap">Stukelejanas</span></span> Antiquitates.</div> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza italics" lang="la"> - <div class="i0 drop-cap">DEperditorum restitutor Temporum</div> - <div class="i1">Et veritatis in tenebris abditæ</div> - <div class="i0">Scrutator eruditus, arte quâ mirâ valet!</div> - <div class="i0">Retegit vetustum quicquid obscuro sinu</div> - <div class="i0">Abscondit Ævum. Tempus, hic aciem tuæ</div> - <div class="i0">Falcis retundit invidam: frustra omnia</div> - <div class="i0">Comples ruinis. jam tuæ pereunt minæ.</div> - <div class="i0">Ipsæ perire nam ruinæ nesciunt. <span class="fright">M. M.</span></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_ix">ix</span></p> - - <hr class="full mt3 mb2"> - <div class="center large bold">Ad <span class="smcap"><span class="gesperrt">Itinerarii Curiosi </span></span>auctorem.</div> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry" lang="la"> - <div class="stanza italics"> - <div class="i0 drop-cap">QUantum Roma tibi, et Romana Britannia debet,</div> - <div class="i1">Ingenui Vates, Vir celebrande, canant.</div> - <div class="i0">Me nec Roma modos suaves, nec Celtica tellus</div> - <div class="i2">Argutæ docuit stringere fila lyræ.</div> - <div class="i0">Muneris hoc igitur vani cur hybrida tentem</div> - <div class="i2">Normannus, Cimber, Saxo, Britannus ego?</div> - <div class="i0">Musa negat, Natura negat, sed suggerit unus</div> - <div class="i2">Qualiacunque potest carmina noster Amor.</div> - </div> - <div class="stanza italics"> - <div class="i0">Gratulor inceptum tibi nobile, gratulor illis,</div> - <div class="i2">Inter quos nomen glorior esse meum:</div> - <div class="i0">Qui patriæ priscas arteis, loca, nomina, & ipsas</div> - <div class="i2">Relliquias sancta relligione colunt;</div> - <div class="i0">Quo brevis ostendis conclusus limite campi,</div> - <div class="i2">Limite quam nullo clauditur ingenium.</div> - <div class="i0">Quòque tuos sensus permulcet amore <span class="smcap">Vetustas</span>,</div> - <div class="i2">Qui nullos casus, ardua nulla fugis.</div> - <div class="i0">Per salebras asp’ras, per tortas ambitiones,</div> - <div class="i2">Et cæcos calles, improbe, carpis <span class="smcap">Iter</span>.</div> - <div class="i0">Stagna lacúsque inter, limosáque pascua Lindi,</div> - <div class="i2">Romanæ explorans avia strata viæ.</div> - <div class="i0">Hic ubi sorte dolens, pelagi tot jugera rector</div> - <div class="i2">Æquoris herbosi non sua, rapta tenet.</div> - <div class="i0">Plura quidem tenuit, sed jussit Jupiter acres</div> - <div class="i2">Martigenas patrui vim cohibere sui.</div> - <div class="i0">Haud secus ac jussi faciunt, partémque receptam</div> - <div class="i2">Terreni, ut par est, æquoris esse jubent.</div> - <div class="i0">Cætera raptori quæ nunc manet Ennosigæo,</div> - <div class="i2">Si quibus est armis, est repetenda tuis.</div> - <div class="i0">Qui terræ pelagíque adeo declivia monstras,</div> - <div class="i2">Et quò præcipites Nereus urget equos;</div> - <div class="i0">Tanta mathematicis se tollit gloria vestra</div> - <div class="i2">Artibus; at numeris grandior illa meis.</div> - <div class="i0">Me rapit addictum veterum admiratio rerum,</div> - <div class="i2">Plenáque deliciis pagina quæque suis.</div> - <div class="i0">Tu monumenta pius, monumentis adstruis ipsis,</div> - <div class="i2">Perdita quæ fuerant, posse perire vetans.</div> - <div class="i0">Quid referam quantum tibi debet Classicus auctor,</div> - <div class="i2">Qui priscas urbes, castràque prisca doces?</div> - <div class="i0">Mercator siccis quærens adamantas in oris,</div> - <div class="i2">Non tam conductam versat avarus humum,</div> - <div class="i0">Quam tu cum nummos, urnas, & cætera signa</div> - <div class="i2">Antiquæ effodias indubitata notæ.</div> - <div class="i0">Nomina, quæ fuerant olim, Romana reducis,</div> - <div class="i2">Perdita restituens, obsolefacta novans.</div> - <div class="i0">Nec te, antiquarum tam mira peritia vocum est,</div> - <div class="i2">Fallunt Teutonici, barbaricique soni.</div> - <div class="i0">Historiam quantum decoras, si dicere vellem,</div> - <div class="i2">Historiam videar scribere, non literas.</div> - <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_x">x</span></p> - </div> - <div class="stanza italics"> - <div class="i0">Tu das præteritis veluti præsentibus uti,</div> - <div class="i2">Et redeunt scriptis secula lapsa tuis.</div> - <div class="i0">Detrahis ancipiti Jano mirabile monstrum,</div> - <div class="i2">Et recta facie cernere cuncta jubes.</div> - <div class="i0">Sed dum commendo tua, carmine digna Maronis.</div> - <div class="i2">Ingenii culpâ detero, scripta, mei.</div> - <div class="i0">Macte tua virtute esto, patriamque quotannis</div> - <div class="i2">Quo pede cæpisti demereare. Vale.</div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <div class="right">R. AINSWORTH.</div> - - <hr class="full mt3 mb2"> - <div class="center large bold">To Dr. <span class="smcap">Stukeley</span>, upon his <i>Itinerarium Curiosum</i>.</div> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0 drop-cap">HAIL, Baxter lives! in each descriptive page</div> - <div class="i1">Are seen the labours of the Roman age:</div> - <div class="i0">What ere the sons of Rome or Albion knew,</div> - <div class="i0">We here discern at one compendious view.</div> - <div class="i0">Thus taught we pass the Caledonian flood,</div> - <div class="i0">Or fertile plains that smile from Cimbric blood:</div> - <div class="i0">Where Vaga’s streams glide murmuring near the tomb,<span class="rbracep">}</span></div> - <div class="i0">(Darksome recess) where mighty Chiefs of Rome</div> - <div class="i0">Have slumber’d ages in its silent gloom:</div> - <div class="i0">Where airy lamps the distant sailor guide,</div> - <div class="i0">Or where the labour’d arch deceives the tide:</div> - <div class="i0">Where Geta kept the Belgic youth in awe,</div> - <div class="i0">Or where Papinian gave the Roman law.</div> - <div class="i0">Pleas’d I behold Sabrina’s silver stream,</div> - <div class="i0">Or hear the murmurs of the doubtful Teme.</div> - <div class="i0">With you, methinks, from Cred’nil I survey</div> - <div class="i0">Th’ important conflict of the furious day:</div> - <div class="i0">See, see! Frontinus fierce in armour shine,</div> - <div class="i0">Where the war burns upon the vale of Eigne.</div> - <div class="i0">Here on the plains of Aricon we learn</div> - <div class="i0">Life’s various period from the peaceful urn.</div> - <div class="i0">Yon hoary Druids pray celestial aid,</div> - <div class="i0">Where sacred oaks diffuse a solemn shade;</div> - <div class="i0">Each branch aspiring to the blest abode</div> - <div class="i0">Lifts up the vows of Britain to the God.</div> - <div class="i0">Go on, my friend! the curious theme pursue,<span class="rbracep">}</span></div> - <div class="i0">The mystic scenes of early time review,</div> - <div class="i0">And tell Britannia, Baxter lives in you.</div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="right"><span style="margin-right: 2.4em;">JAMES HILL, J. C.</span><br> - <i class="small">Middle-Temple, London, Dec. 1. 1724.</i></p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp90 mb4" id="i_001"> - <img src="images/i_001.jpg" alt=""> - <div><a href="#t_001">See transcription</a></div> - </figure> - -<div class="snmargin"> - - <div class="chapter"> - <span class="pagenum" id="Page_1">1</span> - <hr class="full mb0"> - <hr class="full thick" style="margin-top: 0.2%;"> - <hr class="full mt0"> - <div class="center xxlarge mt5"><b>ITINERARIUM CURIOSUM, &c.</b></div> - <h2 class="nobreak xlarge" id="ITINERARIUM_DOMESTICUM"><span class="gesperrt2">ITER DOMESTICUM</span>. I.</h2> - </div> - - <hr class="full"> - <div class="center"><i lang="la">I, fuge, sed poteras tutior esse domi.</i> - <span class="smcap" style="float: right;">Mart.</span></div> - <hr class="full"> - - <div class="center bold mt3 lh1"><i>To</i> <span class="gesperrt1">MAURICE JOHNSON</span>, Jun. <i>Esq.</i><br> - <i>Barrister at Law of the</i> Inner-Temple.</div> - - <p class="drop-cap">THE amity that long subsisted between our families giving birth to an - early acquaintance, a certain sameness of disposition, particularly a - love to antient learning, advanced our friendship into that confidence, - which induces me to prefix your name to this little summary of what has - occurred to me worth mentioning in our native country, <span class="gesperrt">HOLLAND</span>, - in Lincolnshire; but chiefly intended to provoke you to pursue a full - history thereof, who have so large a fund of valuable papers and - collections relating thereto, and every qualification necessary for - the work. That these memoirs of mine are so short, is because scarce - more time than that of childhood I there spent, and when I but began to - have an inclination for such enquiries: that the rest which follow are - grown to such a bulk as to become the present volume, is owing to my - residence at London. Great as are the advantages of this capital, for - opportunities of study, or for the best conversation in the world, yet - I should think a confinement to it insupportable, and cry out with the - poet,</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0"><i lang="la">Invideo vobis agros, formosaque prata.</i> <span class="fright">Virg.</span></div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0">I envy you your fields and pastures fair.</div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">which engages me to make an excursion now and then into the country: - and this is properly taking a review of pure nature; for life here - may be called only artificial, especially when fixed down to it; - like the gaudy entries upon a theatre, where a pompous character is - supported for a little while, and then makes an exit soon forgotten. - My ancestors, both paternal and maternal, having lived, from times - immemorial, in or upon the edges of our marshy level, perhaps gave me - that melancholic disposition, which renders the bustlings of an active - and showy life disagreeable. The fair allurements of the business of - a profession, which have been in my road, cannot induce me wholly to - forsake the sweet recesses of contemplation, that real life, that - tranquillity of mind, only to be<span class="pagenum" id="Page_2">2</span> met with in proper solitude; where I - might make the most of the pittance of time allotted by Fate, and if - possible doubly over enjoy its fleeting space. I own a man is born for - his country and his friends, and that he ought to serve them in his - best capacity; yet he confessedly claims a share in himself: and that, - in my opinion, is enjoying one’s self; not, as the vulgar think, in - heaping up immoderate riches, titles of honour, or in empty, irrational - pleasures, but in storing the mind with the valuable treasures of the - knowledge of divine and human things. And this may in a very proper - sense be called the study of Antiquities.</p> - - <div class="sidenote"><i>Of the study of</i> <span class="smcap">Antiquities</span>.</div> - - <p>I need not make an apology to you for that which some people of - terrestrial minds think to be a meagre and useless matter; for - truly what is this study, but searching into the fountain-head of - all learning and truth? Some antient philosophers have thought that - knowledge is only reminiscence. If we extend this notion no further - than as to what has been said and done before us, we shall not be - mistaken in asserting that the past ages bore men of as good parts as - we: enquiry into their thoughts and actions is learning; and happy for - us if we can improve upon them, and find out things they did not know, - by help of their own clue. All things upon this voluble globe are but - a succession, like the stream of a river: the higher you go, the purer - the fluid, less tainted with corruptions of prejudice or craft, with - the mud and soil of ignorance. Here are the things themselves to study - upon; not words only, wherein too much of learning has consisted. If - we examine into the antiquities of nations that had no writing among - them, here are their monuments: these we are to explore, to strike - out their latent meaning; and the more we reason upon them, the more - reason shall we find to admire the vast size of the gigantic minds - of our predecessors, the great and simple majesty of their works, - and wherein mainly lies the beauty and the excellence of matters of - antiquity. But more especially it is not without a happy omen, that - the moderns have exerted themselves in earnest, to rake up every dust - of past times, moved by the evident advantages therefrom accruing, in - the understanding their invaluable writings, which have escaped the - common shipwreck of time. It is from this method we must obtain an - accurate intelligence of those principles of learning and foundations - of all science: it is from them we advance our minds immediately to the - state of manhood, and without them the world 5000 years old would but - begin to think like a child. Nothing more illustrates this than looking - into the comments that were wrote upon them 200 years ago, voluminous - enough, but barbarous, poor, and impertinent, when compared to the - solid performances of learned men since, whose heads were enriched with - an exact search into the customs, manners and monuments of the writers. - Hence it is, that history, geography, mathematics, philosophy, the - learned professions, law, divinity, our own faculty, and the muses in - general, flourish like a fresh garden richly watered and cultivated, - weeded from rubbish of logomachy and barren mushrooms, gay with - thriving and beautiful plants of true erudition, inoculated upon the - stocks of the antients.</p> - - <div class="sidenote"><i>Of</i> <span class="smcap">Britain</span>.</div> - - <p>If ruminating upon antiquities at home be commendable, travelling at - home for that purpose can want no defence; it is still coming nearer - the lucid springs of truth. The satisfaction of viewing realities has - led infinite numbers of its admirers through the labours and dangers - of strange countries, through oceans, immoderate heats and colds, over - rugged mountains, barren sands and deserts, savage inhabitants, and a - million of perils; and the world is filled with accounts of them. We - export yearly our own<span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">3</span> treasures into foreign parts, by the genteel and - fashionable <em>tours</em> of France and Italy, and import ship-loads - of books relating to their antiquities and history (it is well if we - bring back nothing worse) whilst our own country lies like a neglected - province. Like untoward children, we look back with contempt upon our - own mother. The antient Albion, the valiant Britain, the renowned - England, big with all the blessings of indulgent nature, fruitful - in strengths of genius, in the great, the wise, the magnanimous, - the learned and the fair, is postponed to all nations. Her immense - wealth, traffic, industry; her flowing streams, her fertile plains, - her delightful elevations, pleasant prospects, curious antiquities, - flourishing cities, commodious inns, courteous inhabitants, her - temperate air, her glorious show of liberty, every gift of providence - that can make her the envy and the desirable mistress of the whole - earth, is slighted and disregarded.</p> - - <p>You, Sir, to whom I pretend not to talk in this manner, well know that - I had a desire by this present work, however mean, to rouse up the - spirit of the Curious among us, to look about them and admire their - native furniture: to show them we have rarities of domestic growth. - What I offer them is an account of my journeyings hitherto, but little - indeed, and with expedition enough, with accuracy no more than may be - expected from a traveller; for truth in every particular, I can vouch - only for my own share, strangers must owe somewhat to informations. I - can assure you I endeavoured as much as possible not to be deceived, - nor to deceive the reader. It was ever my opinion that a more intimate - knowledge of Britain more becomes us, is more useful and as worthy a - part of education for our young nobility and gentry as the view of any - transmarine parts. And if I have learnt by seeing some places, men and - manners, or have any judgment in things, it is not impossible to make a - classic journey on this side the streights of Dover.</p> - - <p>Thus much at least I thought fit to premise in favour of the study of - antiquities. And with particular deference to the society of British - Antiquaries in London, to whom I remember with pleasure you first - introduced me: since for some time I have had the honour of being their - secretary; to them I beg leave to consecrate the following work. To - the right honourable the Earl of Hartford the illustrious and worthy - President, the right honourable the Earl of Winchelsea, Peter le Neve, - esq; Roger Gale, esq; the illustrious and worthy Vice-presidents, and - to the learned Members thereof. Then, lest I should fall under my own - censure passed upon others, that know least of things nearest them, I - shall deliver my thoughts about the history of <span class="smcap">Holland</span> before - mentioned, which may serve as a short comment upon the map of this - country which I published last year, with a purpose of assisting the - gentlemen that are commissioners of sewers there, though it is of such - a bulk as cannot conveniently be inserted into this volume.</p> - - <p>If we cast our eyes upon the geography of England, we must observe that - much of the eastern shore is flat, low ground, whilst the western is - steep and rocky. This holds generally true throughout the globe as to - its great parts, countries or islands, and likewise particularly as to - its little ones, mountains and plains. I mean, that mountains are steep - and abrupt to the west,<a id="FNanchor_2" href="#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> especially the north-west, and have a gentle - declivity eastward or to the south-east, and that plains ever descend - eastward. I wonder very much that this remark has never been made. I - took notice of it in our own country, almost before <span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">4</span>I had ever been - out of it, in the universal declivity of that level eastward, in those - parts where it did not by that means regard the ocean; particularly in - South Holland, or the wapentake of Elho: the natural descent of water - therein is not to the sea, as the rivers run, but directly eastward, - and that very considerable. Beside, the current of every river is lower - as more eastward: thus the Welland is higher in level than the Nen, - the Nen than the Ouse; and probably at first both emptied themselves - by the Ouse or Lyn river as most eastward. I observed in June 1732, - that the Peterborough river Nen would willingly discharge itself into - Whitlesea mere, and so to the Ouse at Lyn, if it were not hindered by - the sluice at Horsey bridge by the river Nen. I see no difficulty to - attribute the reason of it to the rotation of the globe. Those that - have gone about to demonstrate to us that famous problem of the earth’s - motion, have found out many mathematical and abstracted proofs for - that purpose, but neglected this which is most sensible and before our - eyes every minute. It is a property of matter, that when whirled round - upon an <em>axis</em>, it endeavours to fly from the <em>axis</em>, as we - see in the motion of a wheel, the dirt and loose parts are thrown the - contrary way in a tangent line. This is owing to the natural inactivity - of matter, which is not easily susceptible of motion. Now at the time - that the body of the earth was in a mixt state between solid and fluid, - before its present form of land and sea was perfectly determined, the - almighty Artist gave it its great diurnal motion. By this means the - elevated parts or mountainous tracts, as they consolidated whilst yet - soft and yielding, flew somewhat westward, and spread forth a long - declivity to the east: the same is to be said of the plains, their - natural descent tending that way, and, as I doubt not, of the superfice - of the earth below the ocean. This critical minute is sublimely - described by the admirable poet and observer of nature,</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry" lang="la"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0"><i>Namque canebat, uti magnum per inane coacta</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Semina terrarumque, animæque, marisque fuissent,</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Et liquidi simul ignis. Ut his exordia primis</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Omnia, & ipse tener mundi concreverit orbis.</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Tum durare solum & discludere nerea ponto</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Cœperit, & rerum paulatim sumere formas.</i> - <span class="fright"><span class="smcap">Virg.</span> Ecl. <span class="allsmcap">VI.</span></span></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">which may thus be englished.</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0">He sang, how from the mighty void, in one</div> - <div class="i0">Large space, collected were the fluid seeds</div> - <div class="i0">Of earth, air, sea and fire; from these came all.</div> - <div class="i0">The callow world became one massive globe;</div> - <div class="i0">The ocean by the hard’ning ground disjoin’d,</div> - <div class="i0">New forms surpris’d the beauteous face of things.</div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">The truth of this observation I have seen universally confirmed in all - my travels, and innumerable instances of it will occur to the reader - throughout these discourses. I design another time professedly to - treat of it in a philosophical way. But consequent to this doctrine it - is that we have so large a quantity of this marshland in the middle - of the eastern shore of England, seeming as if made by the washings - and <em>eluvies</em> of the many rivers that fall that way, such as the - Welland, the Witham, the Nen, the Ouse great and little, together - with many other streams of inferior note. These all empty themselves - into the great bay formed between the Lincolnshire wolds and cliffs - of Norfolk, called by Ptolemy <i lang="la">Mentaris æstuarium</i>, as rightly<span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">5</span> - corrected by Mr. Baxter, seeing it is composed of the mouths of so - many rivers; <em>Ment</em>, or <em>Mant</em>, signifying <em>ostium</em> in - the British language. Beside the great quantity of high and inland - country that discharges its waters this way, even as far as Fritwell - in Oxfordshire; all the level country lies before it, extending itself - from within some few miles of Cambridge south, to Keal hills near - Bolingbroke in Lincolnshire north, about sixty miles long, known by the - names of the Isle of Ely, Holland and Marshland. This country, since - the flood, I believe was much in the same state as at present, and for - its bulk the richest spot of ground in the kingdom; once well inhabited - by gentry, especially the religious. I apprehend the more inland part - of it, the Isle of Ely, Deeping Fen, &c. was not in distant ages in so - bad a condition as now, because the natural drainage of it was better, - before the sea had by degrees added so much solid ground upon the - coasts.</p> - - <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Holland</span>, <i>its name</i>.</div> - - <p>In this country I have observed abundance of old Welsh words left among - us; and I am persuaded that the name of Holland is derived from that - language, though now terminated by a later word, as is frequent enough. - It signifies no more than salt or marsh land, such as is gained from - the sea; and to this day we call the marshes adjoining to, and sometime - overflowed by the sea, <em>salt marshes</em>. Likewise upon the sea shore - they formerly made salt in great abundance. The hills all along upon - the sea bank, the remains of such works, are still called salt hills: - such are at Fleet, Holbech, Gosberton, Wainflet,<a id="FNanchor_3" href="#Footnote_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> &c. Many names - of rivers and roads, thence derived, remain still, such as Salters - Lode, Salteney Gate, &c. <em>Hallt</em> in the British is <em>salsus</em>, - salt, as ἅλς in the Greek is <em>mare</em>, the sea; and most evidently - borrowed from the British, because of its most notorious quality. The - adjoining part of this country in Norfolk, is called marsh land, in the - very same sense: so is Zeland and Holland at the mouth of the Rhine, - where our Cimbric ancestors once lived. In the Cimbric Chersoness, now - Denmark, is Halland, a division of the country by the Saxons called - <em>Halgo land</em>. Vid. Spelman’s Glassary, voce <em>Sciringes heal</em>. - Holsatia, Holstein, &c. and our Holderness in Yorkshire, must thus be - understood. Hence the isle of Ely too is denominated, the very word - <em>heli</em> being <em>salsugo</em> in the British. This, in the most - antient British times, was as much marsh land as our wapentake of Elho - is now, which acknowledges the same original; <em>hoe</em> signifying a - parcel of high ground.</p> - - <div class="sidenote"><i>First Inhabitants the</i> <span class="smcap">Britons</span>.</div> - - <p>We may be assured that this whole country was well inhabited by the - antient Britons, and that as far as the sea coasts, especially the - islets and higher parts more free from ordinary inundations of the - rivers, or though not imbanked above the reach of the spring tides; - for the nature of this place perfectly answered their gusto, both as - affording abundant pasturage for their cattle, wherein their chief - sustenance and employment consisted, and in being so very secure from - incursion and depredations of war and troublesome neighbours, by the - difficult fens upon the edge of the high country. Here I have not been - able to meet with any remains of them, except it be the great quantity - of <em>tumuli</em>, or barrows, in all these parts; scarce a parish - without one or more of them. They are generally of a very considerable - bulk, much too large for Roman; nor has any thing Roman been discovered - in cutting them through; though, a few years ago, two or three were - dug quite away near Boston, and another at Frampton, to make brick of, - or to mend the highways. I guess these were the high places of worship - among our Cimbrian predecessors, purposely cast up, because there - <span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">6</span>are no natural hills in these parts; and we know antiquity affected - places of elevation for religious rites. No doubt, some are places - of sepulture, especially such as are very frequent upon the edges of - the high countries all around, looking down upon the fens. Hither - seem to have been carried the remains of great men, whose habitations - were in the marshy grounds, who chose to be buried upon higher ground - than where they lived; as is the case all over England; for the - <em>tumuli</em> are commonly placed upon the brink of hills hanging over - a valley, where doubtless their dwellings were.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Romans.</div> - - <p>But when the Romans had made considerable progress in reducing this - island into the regular form of a province, and began the mighty work - of laying down the great military ways; then I suppose it was, that - they cast their eyes upon this fertile and wide-extended plain, and - projected the draining it. <span class="sidenote"><i>The</i> <span class="smcap">Hermen Street.</span></span>In the reign of Nero, in all probability, - they made the <em>Hermen Street</em>,<a id="FNanchor_4" href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> as now called by a Saxon word - equivalent to the Latin <i lang="la">via militaris</i>. That this was the first, - seems intimated by the name, in that it has retained κατ’ εξοχην, what - is but a common appellative of such roads. <span class="sidenote">TAB. LVI.</span>This noble work, taking - in the whole of it, was intended to be a meridian line running from - the southern ocean, through London, to the utmost bounds of Scotland. - This may be inferred from the main of it, which runs directly north - and south. And another argument of its early date, drawn from three - remarkable particularities, I have observed in travelling upon it, - and which show it was begun before that notable people had a thorough - knowledge of the geography of the island. One is, its deviation - westward as it advances towards these fens from London: another is, - the new branch, drawn a little beyond Lincoln westward into Yorkshire, - out of the principal stem going to the Humber: a third is, that it is - double in Lincolnshire. Of these I shall speak again when we come to - the following <em>Iter Romanum</em>. Now we will only consider such part - of it as has relation to the country we are upon; and that is the road - going from Caster by Peterburgh to Sleford in this county, which is - undoubtedly Roman, and which first occasioned the draining this fenny - tract, and surely more antient than that which goes above Stanford, - and along the heathy part of the county to Lincoln. My reasoning - depends upon the manner of the road itself, and upon that other great - work which accompanies it, called the <em>Cardike</em>, equally to be - ascribed to the same authors. This road is nearer the first intention - of a meridian line than the other: but, when they found it carried them - through a low country, where it perpetually needed reparation, and that - they must necessarily decline westward to reach Lincoln, they quitted - it, and struck out a new one, more westerly, that should run altogether - upon better ground. This, if we have leave to guess, was done after - the time of Lollius Urbicus, lieutenant under Antoninus Pius, who with - great industry and courage had extended and secured the whole province - as far as Edinburgh. Then it was they had time and opportunity to - complete the work in the best manner, being perfect masters of the - country, and of its geography: and this road was for the ready march of - their armies and provisions to succour those northern frontiers. But it - seems as if they had long before that time brought the Hermen Street - as far as Lincolnshire,<a id="FNanchor_5" href="#Footnote_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> especially that eastern branch, or original - stem, of which we <span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">7</span>are treating, and that as early as the reign - of Nero, and at the same time made the Cardike. I shall give you my - further reasons for this conjecture, and nothing more than conjecture - can be expected in such matters.</p> - - <figure class="illowp90" id="i_006"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>42·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <img src="images/i_006.jpg" alt="Bricantiæ Pars"> - </figure> - - <div class="sidenote"><i>Old</i> <span class="smcap">Hermen Street</span>.</div> - - <p>The road which we suppose the original stem of the Hermen Street - goes in a direct line, and full north and south from Durobrivæ, or - Caster, to Sleford; and there, for aught I know, it terminates. It is - manifest, that if it had been carried further in that direction, it - would have passed below Lincoln heath, and arrive at the river where - it is not fordable. It parts from the present and real Hermen Street - at Upton, a mile north of Caster; but this is continued in a strait - line, which demonstrates that it is the original one: the other goes - from it with an angular branching. This traverses the river Welland at - Westdeeping, and is carried in a high bank across the watery meadows - of Lolham bridges.<a id="FNanchor_6" href="#Footnote_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> These are numerous and large arches made upon - the road, to let the waters pass through, taken notice of by the great - Camden as of antiquity; and no doubt originally Roman: then it crosses - the Glen at Catebridge, (whereabouts it is now called King’sgate, - <em>via regia</em>) to Bourn, (where Roman coins are often found, many - in possession of Jos. Banks, jun. esq.) so to Fokingham and Sleaford. - It is now called Longdike. All along parallel to this road runs a - famous old drain, called <span class="sidenote"><i>The</i> <span class="smcap">Cardike</span>.</span> - <em>Cardike</em>.<a id="FNanchor_7" href="#Footnote_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> Mr. Morton has been very - curious in tracing it out through his county, Northamptonshire. I am - sorry I have not yet had opportunity to pursue his laudable example, - in finishing the course of it through Lincolnshire: but as far as I - have observed it, it is marked in the map. This is a vast artificial - canal drawn north and south upon the edge of the fens, from Peterburgh - river to Lincoln river, about fifty mile long, and by the Romans - without all peradventure. It is taken notice of by serjeant Callis, - our countryman, in his readings on the sewers. That wise people, with - a greatness of thought peculiar to themselves, observed the great use - of such a channel, that by water carriage should open an inland traffic - between their two great colonies of Durobrivæ and Lindum, or Lincoln, - without going round the hazardous voyage of the Estuary: just such was - the policy of Corbulo in Tacitus, Annal. xi. <i lang="la">Ne tamen miles otium - indueret inter Mosam Rhenumque trium & viginti millium spatio fossam - produxit, qua incerta oceani evitarentur.</i> And lest the soldiery - should be idle, he drew a dike for the space of three and twenty miles - between the Maese and the Rhine, whereby the dangers of the ocean are - avoided; which is exactly a parallel case with ours. Besides, it is - plain that by intercepting all the little streams coming down from - the high country, and naturally overflowing our levels, it would much - facilitate the draining thereof, which at this time they must have had - in view. This canal enters Lincolnshire at Eastdeeping, proceeding - upon an exact level, which it takes industriously between the high and - low grounds all the way, by Langtoft and Baston: passing the river - Glen at Highbridge, it runs in an uninterrupted course as far as - Kyme: beyond that I have not yet followed it; but I suppose it meets - Lincoln river near Washenburgh, and where probably they had a fort - to secure the navigation, as upon other proper intermediate places, - such <span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">8</span>as Walcot, Garick, Billingborough, Waldram-hall, Narborough, - Eye antiently Ege, <em>agger</em>; and I imagine St. Peter’s de Burgo - hence owes its original: and a place called Low there, a camp ditched - about, just where the Cardike begins on one side the river: another - such fortification at Horsey bridge on the other side the river: all - these names point out some antient works. It is all the way threescore - foot broad, having a large flat bank, on both sides, for the horses - that drew their boats. Roman coins are frequently found through its - whole length, as you well know, who are possessed of many of them of - different emperors. Now it seems to me highly probable that Catus - Decianus, the procurator in Nero’s time, was the projector both of this - road and this canal, two notable examples in different kinds of Roman - industry and judgment; and the memorial of the author of so great a - benefit to the country is handed down to us in several particulars; as - that of Catesbridge before mentioned upon the road, and of Catwater, a - stream derived from this artificial channel, at the very place where - it begins, to the Nen at Dovesdale bar: likewise at Dovesdale bar - comes in another stream from the north, from a place by Shephey bank, - called Catscove corner; and this was first hinted to me by our deceased - friend, the learned and reverend Mr. John Britain, late schoolmaster - of Holbech: to which we may add Catley, a town near Walcot upon the - Cardike beyond Kyme; and Catthorp, a village near Stanfield, upon the - road. We may likewise upon the same grounds conjecture that Lollius - Urbicus repaired this work; whence it seems that his name, though - corrupted, is preserved in Lolham bridges; for there is no town of that - kind near it. Vid. Gale’s <cite>Itinerar.</cite> pag. 28. Lowlsworth upon the - Hermen Street without Bishops-Gate, in Spittle-Fields. Certainly this - is a good hint for our imitation, had we a like public spirit. Now this - road thus accompanying the canal, was of great service to the traders, - who might have an eye upon their vessels all the while. And even after - the projection of the other branch which goes to Lincoln upon the - higher ground, the navigation here was undoubtedly continued in full - perfection, till the Romans left the island; for such is its advantage - of situation, that it could never want water, nor ever overflow: that - stream of Catwater seems to be cut on purpose, at least scoured up, - to preserve these uses in drawing off the floods of Peterburgh river - into the Nen, if its proper channel was not sufficient. The meaning of - the word <em>Cardike</em> is no more than Fendike: we use the word still - in this country, to signify watery, boggy places: it is of British - original.</p> - - <p>I doubt not but that the Romans likewise made that other cut, between - Lincoln river and the Trent, called the Foss: the name seems to - indicate it, as well as the thing itself; for it is but a consequent of - the Cardike, and formed on the same idea: so that I suppose it was not - originally cut, but scoured by Henry I. as Hoveden mentions: then the - navigation was continued by land from Peterborough quite to York, and - this was very useful to the Romans in their northern wars. The other - way they might come from Huntingdon.</p> - - <p>The 20th of October, 1726, I traced the Cardike round the out-skirts of - Sir William Ellys’s park of Nockton: it runs near the site of the old - priory, whose ruins are just visible: it bounds the park entirely on - the fen side, and is very perfect thereabouts; the high-country streams - from Dunston, and others, running along it. We saw where it crossed a - marshy valley, and reached the opposite high ground in its course to - Washenburgh. A well of the old priory is well preserved, remarkably - good water.</p> - - <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">9</span></p> - - <p>That part of the Cardike between Lincoln and the Trent was begun to be - cleansed by bishop Atwater, but he died before completed. It is highly - probable that the Romans called our Cardike <em>Fossa</em>, which happens - to be preserved only on that part between Lincoln and the Trent.</p> - - <p>The Fossdike in being in Edward the Confessor’s time. Vide Camden, - <cite>Nottingham</cite>.</p> - - <p>Cardike runs close by Thurlby town end.</p> - - <p>The marquis of Lindsey gave me an exceeding fair Maximinus; the - reverse, <span class="allsmcap">GENIO POP. ROM.</span> found at Grimsthorp.</p> - - <p>Mrs. Tichmus of Stamford told me she once had many Roman coins, from a - great parcel found at or near Sleford.</p> - - <p>The 18th of October, 1728, I travelled on the Roman road, the eastern - branch of the Hermen Street from Sleford, for about three miles - southward. I observed that it went not to Sleford town directly, but to - the old house of Sir Robert Carr’s, formerly Lord Hussey’s (attainted - for treason in time of Henry VIII.) called Old Place. We saw by the - way, on the east side the road, a mile or more south of Sleford, an old - work, square, ditched about, large, with an entry from the road; the - earth of the vallum thrown on both sides.</p> - - <p>But it was not enough for the Romans thus to provide for commerce - and travelling, without they set proper stations or mansions for the - reception of negociators and the like. Accordingly we find the distance - between Caster and Lincoln, about 40 miles, has two towns upon it at - proper intervals for lodging; these are Sleaford and Stanfield: the - original names of them are in irrecoverable silence, but the eternity - of the Romans is inherent. <span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Sleaford</span> Ro. <i>town</i>.</span>At Sleaford they have found many Roman - coins, especially of the Constantine family and their wives, about the - castle and the spring-head a little above the town. It is probable that - Alexander, the bishop of Lincoln, built his work upon the site of a - Roman citadel. Beside, at Sleaford comes in the other Roman road from - the fen country by Brig-end causeway, and at the intersection of these - two roads the old town stood. At Stanfield,<span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Stanfield</span> Ro. <i>town</i>.</span> which is a little village - near Burn, they find daily the foundations of buildings, innumerable - coins and other antiquities, of which yourself and our friend Mr. John - Hardy have a good quantity. These are chiefly dug up in a close called - Blackfield, from the extraordinary richness of the ground. It stands - half a mile off the road upon elevated ground, whence you may see - Spalding, Boston, and the whole level: it is now only of some note for - a good chalybeat spring.</p> - - <p>I shall rehearse a few things I have noted hereabouts, and then we - will descend into Holland. The following antient part of the genealogy - of the inheritors of Brun, or Bourn, contains several antiquities - hereabouts. The spring-head at Bourn, near the castle belonging to - them, is remarkable for its largeness and quickness.</p> - - <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">10</span></p> - - <figure class="illowp100" id="i_010-11"> - <img src="images/i_010-11.jpg" alt="genealogy"> - <div><a href="#t_010_11">See transcription</a></div> - </figure> - - <p>There were other collateral branches of this family about 1244. such as - Thomas Wake, who held lands in Stoke and Irthingbure under the abbot - of Peterburgh. Wydo Wac held half a knight’s fee in Deping, Beresham<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">12</span> - and Stow, of the heirs of Hugh Wake the same year. Hugo Wac, Roger Wac, - witnesses to a charter 1152. Rymer’s <cite>Fœdera</cite>, I. p. 12. From Sir - Tho. Wake, that married the daughter of Sir John Pateshul, is descended - his grace the present archbishop of Canterbury.</p> - - <p>Not long since some British instruments of brass called celts, - arrow-heads, and bits of bridles of the same metal, were found at Aye - near the Cardike. The 19th of November, 1731, I saw four celts and a - brass spear-head found at Ege, or Aye: the celts were of the female - or recipient kind: they were bought by bishop Kennet, and are now in - the gentlemen’s society at Peterborough. The Druids buried them there, - when the Romans drove them northward: there has been some great work - of the Druids there, as I take it. At Jernham was found an old brass - seal, a man blowing a horn, the legend <cite>John de Sodeburi</cite>, now in - the hands of Mr. Richards of Stanford. At Edenham was a stone cross - now demolished: the inscription on it I have inserted in the <span class="sidenote">TAB. XI.</span>Plate of - Crosses: I saw the stump of it remaining not long since: hard by has - been an old castle at Bitham. Grimsthorp, the pleasant seat of the - Duke of Ancaster: the park is very large and beautiful; in the middle - of it stood Vaudy abbey in a vale, founded by Wil. de Albemarle 1147. - some small ruins of it are left: the lawn there, whereon is an annual - horse-race, is extremely delightful.<a id="FNanchor_13" href="#Footnote_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a> In Hakunby church upon a stone - I read this inscription,</p> - - <div class="center antiqua">Iste fuit Rector Thomas de Brunn vocitatus.</div> - - <p class="noindent">Sempringham abbey founded by St. Gilbert lord of the place, and author - of the Gilbertin order, where men and women lived together in holy - community: now an old ruinous seat of the earls of Lincoln.</p> - - <p>Trekingham, so called, as some will have it, from a fanciful story of - three Danish kings there buried: round the font in the church is this - inscription, + <span class="antiqua">Ave maria gratia p. d. t.</span> Upon a tombstone in the - church-yard this,</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry" lang="la"> - <div class="stanza large"> - <div class="i0"><span class="gesperrtx">HIC INTVMVLATVR JOHANNES</span></div> - <div class="i0"><span class="gesperrtx">QVONDAM DN̅S DE TRIKINGHA</span>M.</div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">St. Saviour’s chapel at the end of Brig-end causeway is still left, - turned into a mansion house, founded by George of Lincoln, endowed - with lands to maintain the causeway: a legacy highly to be commended. - At Ranceby near Sleford on a hill, many Roman antiquities found, of - which an account in Leland’s Itinerar. Hale Parva, Hale Magna, so - called from the hall or seat of the lord of the manor: in the former is - Helpringham, which I suppose no more than <i lang="la">Hale parva ingham</i>, the - termination being very common in towns hereabouts.</p> - - <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Holland</span> <i>imbanked by the</i> Romans.</div> - - <p>Having given an account of the preparation made by the Romans towards - gaining this vast tract of fen-land, the Lincolnshire levels, by - securing it from the fresh water of the high countries in that noble - cut called Cardike; <span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">13</span>we must imagine their next care was to render - it safe from the flux of the Ocean, by making a great bank all along - upon the sea coasts: this was done as to the wapentake of Elho by what - we call the Old Sea-dike, which by the people at this day is said to - be made by Julius Cæsar and his soldiers; as if they had knowledge - of its being a Roman work: at the mouths of all the rivers no doubt - they made gotes and sluices as at present, which was an invention of - Osiris, the great king of Egypt, as Diodorus Siculus tells us, I. 19. - We may well suppose it was performed after the time of Lollius Urbicus, - scarce fully accomplished before: possibly in Severus his time, which - seems not obscurely hinted at by Herodian, III. <i lang="la">Sed in primis curæ - habuit pontibus occupare paludes, ut stare in tuto milites possint - atque in solido præliari. Siquidem Britanniæ pleraque loca frequentibus - oceani alluvionibus paludescunt. Per eas igitur paludes barbari ipsi - natant excursantque ad ilia usque demersi.</i> But he had it in his - particular care to make passes over the fens, that the soldiers might - stand firm and fight upon hard ground; for many places in Britain are - marshy through the frequent overflowings of the ocean, over which the - inhabitants will swim, and walk though up to the middle in water. To - which description no place so well corresponds.</p> - - <p>That the Romans thoroughly inhabited this fertile plain, the - following instances will sufficiently evince. About 1713, at Elm near - Wisbech, an urn full of Roman brass money was taken up, not far from - a <em>tumulus</em> of which the common people have strange notions, - affirming that they frequently see a light upon it in dark winter - nights. Dr. Massey has many of the coins; they are of the later - empire. There is another piece of high ground near it, where have been - buildings. Dr. Massey says there is a Roman altar in a wall there. At - Gedney hill several Roman coins have been found; some of Antoninus are - in your collection. In the same hamlet, about two mile north of Southea - bank, is a pasture called the High Doles, being a square doubly moted, - where ancient foundations have been dug up, and some Roman coins. - Another like square so moted is in the parish of St. Edmund’s, about - the same distance from the said bank, where the like matters have been - discovered. Aswic grange in Whaplodedrove parish is a high piece of - ground, square and moted about: in this and near it many Roman coins - have been dug up, and urns, which I have seen; some coins in your - collection. This is near Catscove corner; and it was Mr. Britain’s - notion that Catus made this work among many others as <em>castella</em> - to secure the possession of the country: these lie as it were in a - line, on the most southerly part of Elho. In the parish of Fleet near - Ravensclow, about 1698,<a id="FNanchor_14" href="#Footnote_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a> upon a piece of high ground where buildings - have been, Mr. Edward Lenton dug up a large urn with letters round it, - full of Roman coins,<a id="FNanchor_15" href="#Footnote_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a> about the quantity of three pecks, covered - with an oak board: the urn he broke in pieces: they were of brass piled - edgeways, mostly about the time of Gallienus and the thirty tyrants as - called, Tetricus, Claudius Gothicus, Victorinus, Carausius, Alectus, - &c. I have seen vast numbers of them, and have some by me: many are in - your collection. Near this place runs a low channel, quite to Fleet - haven, which probably then was the chief outlet of the waters into - the sea. Mr. Lenton found some ship-timber upon it with rusty nails, - probably of some Roman barge. None of these coins were lower than the - Tetrici, which proves the imbankation was made before their time. In - the same latitude, and in the next parish, Holbech,<a id="FNanchor_16" href="#Footnote_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a> in a pasture - called Anytofts,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">14</span> in my tenure, is a like square of high ground, where - rubbish of buildings and coins have been found; it is moted likewise: - not long since a labourer, scouring up a pit in the mote, took up an - urn now in my possession. At Giggleshurn, in casting up a ditch, were - many Roman coins found: we may reasonably conjecture Moulton hall was - such another place originally: and in a Held not far from thence, - called Woods, near Ravens-bank, three mile south of Moulton church, - upon plowing, several Roman urns and vessels were found, of fine white - and red earth; some of them were brought to Mr. Hardy. At Spalding, - Roman antiquities have been found, particularly cisterns; of which - some accounts in the Acts of the Royal Soc. N<sup>o</sup> 279. and there was a - Roman castle there, as I conjecture, on the north side of the town, not - far from the river on the right hand of the great road to Bolton, the - square form of the ditch yet remaining. These places, with some other - of like nature, make another line of fortresses through the middle of - the country, parallel to the present towns. I have been told that at - Theophilus Grant’s house in Whaplode, near Gorham’s holt, aqueducts - of clay, one let into another, have been dug up;<a id="FNanchor_17" href="#Footnote_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a> and that in the - seadike bank, between Fleet and Gedney, a brass sword was lately found, - which seem to be Roman. Thus far in South Holland. At Boston, about - 1716, they dug up an old Roman foundation beyond the school-house: near - it some hewn stones formed a cavity, in which was an urn with ashes, - another little pot with an ear, and an iron key of an odd figure, in - my possession. Some time before then, in Mr. Brown’s garden at the - Green poles, they dug up an urn lined with thin lead full of red earth - and bones. A like one I have seen now in Sir Hans Sloan’s museum, - unquestionably Roman.</p> - - <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Roman</span> <i>roads there</i>.</div> - - <p>As the Romans had thus intirely taken in and inhabited the country, no - doubt but according to their custom they drew several roads across it: - but I fear it will be very difficult to give an exact account of them: - such is the nature of the ground, having no solid materials, that they - would be presently wore away without more constant reparations than the - inhabitants practise: yet I have little doubt in supposing one of their - ways was drawn from the northern high country about Bolingbroke by - Stickford, Stickney, Sibsey, and so to Boston river about Redstonegote, - where it passed it by a ferry. I have fancied to myself that several - parcels of it are plainly Roman, by the straitness and by the gravelly - bottom: from thence to Kirkton it is indubitably so, being laid with a - very large bed of gravel: and just a mile from the river is a stone, - now called the Mile-stone, standing in a <i lang="la">quadrivium</i>; it is - a large round stone like the <i lang="la">frustum</i> of a pillar, and very - properly a <i lang="la">lapis milliaris</i>. From Kirkton I imagine the road went - to Donington, where it met the great and principal road of the country, - which is drawn from Ely to Sleaford in a line not much different from a - strait one. It is certain that there is such a road from Grantchester, - which was a Roman town a mile above Cambridge, to Ely by Stretham: - thence another goes across the depth of the fens by Upwell and Elme - towards Wisbech; and it was near this road that the urn with coins - first mentioned was found: and anno 1730 a Roman urn full of coins - was found at the same place; they were of silver, and very fair. Mr. - Beaupre Bell, a curious gentleman, has many Roman coins found near this - Roman road by Emney; several of Carausius undescribed. Wisbech probably - was a Roman station, and their castle founded upon an older foundation. - I suppose this road passed over <span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">15</span>Wisbech river above the town towards - Guyhurn chapel, then went to Trokenholt and Clowscross, there entering - our country: from thence that it went in a strait line to Spalding, by - which means most of those square forts we have mentioned in Elho, where - Roman antiquities were discovered, together with most of the southern - hamlets, will be found to be situate near or upon it; such as St. - Edmund’s chapel, the moted place there, Gedneyhill chapel, Highdoles - there, Holbech chapel, Whaplodedrove chapel, Aswic grange, St. - Katherine’s, and Moulton chapel: whether any traces of it can now be - found or no, I cannot say; but the villages thereabouts seem strongly - to favour the conjecture. Supposing it fact, I should not be surprised - if it now be laid perfectly level with the surface of this fenny soil, - seeing I have observed the like appearance of a Roman road when carried - across a meadow in the high countries, and which was composed of a bed - of gravel 100 foot broad, particularly at the Roman city of Alauna by - Bicester, of which I shall in a following page give an account: and - this of ours I suppose only made of the earth of the country thrown - into a bank, because it was impossible to get more durable materials.</p> - - <p>From Spalding, according to my sentiments, this road went towards - Herring bridge (the word retaining some semblance of antiquity) upon - Surflet river, so along the division between the wapentakes of Kirton - and Aveland, near Wrigbolt and Cressy-hall, to the end of Brig-end - causeway at Donington. Here, Holland brig or Brig-end causeway has all - the requisites that can ascertain it to be a Roman work, being strait - and laid with a solid bed of stone: the present indeed is repaired - every year, but we have much reason to think the first projection of it - through this broad morass was no less than Roman. From thence it went - to Sleford; then it seems to have gone across the heath, and to have - fallen in with the great Hermen street at a remarkable place called - Biard’s leap: from thence possibly it was carried, or was designed to - be, by Stretleythorp and Brentbroughton over the Witham to Crocolana - upon the foss-way; then over the Trent into Nottinghamshire, where - it answers in a line with the road to Tuxford and Worksop; and so on - perhaps to the Irish sea, whereby it would become a great parallel - to the Watling street running across the kingdom, as it does, from - south-east to north-west. At Sleaford I am inclinable to think another - road came from Banovallum, or Horn castle, to the east of the river - Bane southward by les Yates, and so crossed the Witham by Chapelhill - and the Cardike somewhere about Kyme: or else crossed the Witham at the - Hermitage, so went by Swinshed north end to Donington: this principal - road we speak of on the other end seems to go from Ely by Soham and - Bury to the German ocean. I am not ashamed to offer my conjecture to - the curious, however slender its foundation may be, if only as a hint - for a future search: but it seems to me very probable, that if it - was not fully executed by the Romans, they intended it, and have in - part manifestly done it. I conceit it crosses the Icening street at - Ikesworth near Bury, then goes to Bretenham, the Combretonium; but with - that country of Suffolk I am at present perfectly unacquainted. Return - we to Holland.</p> - - <p>Besides this great road, I think we need not scruple to assert that - now called Ravensbank to be another, going east and west, through the - heart of the country, from Tid St. Mary’s to Cowbit. I have rode some - miles upon it, where it is now extremely strait and broad. We have - been informed that it is actually in some old writings called Romans - Bank: it is well known the Welsh pronounced Roman <em>Rhuffain</em>, and - our English word <em>ruffian</em> is from this fountain. Among the Welsh - the letters <em>m</em> and <em>v</em> are<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">16</span> equivalent, to which <em>f</em> - is perfectly alike: <em>maur</em> and <em>vaur</em> is great, and many - more: so that <em>Roman</em>, <em>raven</em>, and <em>ruffen</em>, is the - same word; and hence no doubt came <em>rambling</em>, <em>roving</em>, - and <em>roming</em>, as an ignominious appellative of such as thought - every country better than their own; for such to our ancestors seemed - the Romans, that scarce left any corner of the known world impervious - to their all-conquering eagles, carrying arts and arms along with - them as an impetuous torrent, with a most glorious and invincible - perseverance. Further, it is not unlikely that the upper road running - east and west nearer the sea bank, now called Old Spalding gate, is - originally Roman: in some places, as about Fleet, it retains the name - of Haregate, which is equivalent to <i lang="la">via militaris</i> when spoken - by our Saxon progenitors. Thus the main road and these two lesser - ones seem sufficiently to answer this purpose as to Elho: it seems to - me, that when the Romans made the many forts all along the eastern - shore, to guard against the Saxons, that this bay was provided for - by five, two upon the edges of the high country, and three upon the - rivers; Brancaster in Norfolk, Burgh on Lincolnshire side; Wisbech,<a id="FNanchor_18" href="#Footnote_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a> - Spalding, and Boston, upon each river of the fenny tract.</p> - - <p>Having given you then all the authentic or conjectural memoirs that - have in general occurred to my reflection upon the most ancient state - of this country, I shall proceed to other particularities, nearer - our own times, through every parish; only first take notice in short - of a wonderful appearance in nature all over this country, and which - is common to all such like upon the globe, as far as my informations - reach: that is, <span class="sidenote"><i>Antediluvian trees.</i></span>the infinite quantities of subterraneous trees, lying - three or four foot deep, of vast bulk and different species, chiefly - fir and oak, exceeding hard, heavy and black: many times the branches - reach so near day as to break their ploughs, for so I have heard - them complain about Crowland: about Kyme and Billingay they have dug - up some boats or canoos made of hollowed trunks of trees.<a id="FNanchor_19" href="#Footnote_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a> Many - people will think that this is nothing but the effect of particular - floods, and that this country was once a forest, and not long since - disafforested. This country was once taken into the forest of Kesteven - by the Norman kings, (as you have told me) only with a political view - of extending their power, and disafforested soon after at the instance - of the prior of Spalding: yet it is true of Nassaburg hundred only, - in Northamptonshire. But in my apprehension, as to the matter before - us, such confine their notions to very scanty bounds: an universal - phænomenon requires a more dilated solution, and no less than that - of the Noachian deluge. But upon this I hope for an occasion to - be more copious another time: at present I remember a passage in - Pausanias’s <cite>Attics</cite> toward the end; speaking of an ebeny statue - of Archigetes, “I have heard, (says he) from a man of Cyprus very - skilful in medicinal herbs, that ebeny bears no leaves, no fruit, nor - has it any stock exposed to the sun, only roots in the earth, which the - Ethiopians dig up. Some of them are particularly skilful in finding - them out.” I doubt not but our author speaks of subterranean trees, and - that our people might use this timber to better use than burning it.</p> - - <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">17</span></p> - - <p>Most writers, and particularly Mr. Camden, and most strangers, have an - injurious opinion of this country, and apply that to the whole which - is true but of part of it: for in the main the land is admirably good, - hard, and dry; produces excellent corn and grass; feeds innumerable - sheep and oxen of a very large size, and good flesh and wool; bears - wood extremely well, has several large woods in it, some intirely of - oak of considerable size; is full of hedge-rows and quicksets, and - in summer time looks like the garden of Eden: it is level, and most - delightful to travellers, whether on horseback, or in a coach. The air - indeed is moist, as being near the sea, and bordering upon the fens - of the isle of Ely: as to the first, it is the same upon every sea - coast; as to the latter, they are chiefly on the south side, whence - the sun for the most part draws off the vapours from this country. - Indeed this inconvenience accrues from such vicinity, the production - of gnats; to which Angelus Politianus has done so much honour in that - beautiful Greek epigram you showed me; and is well guarded against - by the gentry in the use of netted canopies hung round their beds, - which was an invention of the Ægyptians living in a like country. - Vide Brown’s Garden of Cyrus, p. 30. But all things necessary for the - comfort of life are here in great plenty; and visitants ever go away - with a better opinion of it than they bring. That great soul king - Charles I. himself undertaking the glorious talk, and others under him, - had projected and made such stately works of <em>sewers</em>, as would - have rendered this country before now, for trade and beauty, the rival - of its name-sake beyond sea; but the licentious times that succeeded, - gave the unthinking mob (incited by his avowed adversary in all things, - Cromwell) an opportunity to destroy them. I have often considered and - admired the length, breadth, and depth of their canals, the vastness of - their gotes and sluices: indeed I think they made many more than were - useful, and might have laid out the whole in a better manner. I would - not, like the Trojan Prophetess, prognosticate ill to my own country; - but it is not difficult to foresee, that unless some project be taken - in hand, like that which my friend Mr. Kinderley published some time - ago, this vast and rich tract must be abandoned to eels and wild ducks. - A thing of this nature is not to be done but by the senate of the - kingdom taking the matter intirely into their own hands; and if I have - any judgement, whatever new works are made, ought always to be carried - eastward only, for reasons I inculcated before: therefore, instead of - deriving the Welland into the Witham, as was his notion, I would have - it brought to the Nen, and both into the Ouse at Lynn, as it was in its - original and natural state.</p> - - <p>Since the time of the Romans, beyond their first bank have been many - intakes, by successive banks, of the best ground in the world left - by the sea, which contracts its own limits by throwing up banks of - sand out of the estuary: so that, from time to time, the land-owners - upon these frontiers gain several thousands of acres. It is observed, - the land so imbanked is ever higher in level than that left behind - it; and I doubt not but some time the whole bay between Lincolnshire - and Norfolk (being one of our great sovereign’s noblest chambers in - his British dominions over the sea, vide Seld. <cite>Mar. claus.</cite>) - will become dry land. By this means the parishes hereabouts increase - to a huge bulk. Holbech from Dovesdale bar, where it joins to - Cambridgeshire, to the limits of the salt marshes, is near twenty miles - long. The cattle bred on this ground are very large; the sheep never - have horns. Smithfield market, as now much supported, was chiefly set - up by the inhabitants here, as I have been told, particularly by<span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">18</span> Mr. - William Hobson, brother to the famous Cambridge carrier, and Mr. Cust; - the London butchers, before then, commonly going into the country to - buy cattle.</p> - - <p>In every parish formerly were many chapels, it being impracticable - for people to come so far to one church, though now most of them - are demolished, at what time I cannot imagine. No part of England - boasts of so many beautiful churches, having generally lofty spires - of fine squared stone, fetched from Barneck pits, which are a coarse - rag full of petrified shells of all kinds of small fish, and not, as - some think, from Norway. And in no very distant times, not a parish - without great numbers of gentry, lords, knights, and great families, - who made a figure in the world: now scarce any remains of them, but - the site of their houses moted round, their tombs in the churches, - their arms in the painted windows, where they have by chance escaped - the fury of fanatic zeal. Many religious houses formerly there; and - nearly the whole country was got into their hands, as appears by the - old terriers, or town-books. The only houses of note are at present - Dunton hall, in Tyd St. Mary’s parish, lately rebuilt magnificently - by Sigismund Trafford, esq. who has likewise inclosed a considerable - park with a brick wall; and Cressy hall in Surflet parish, the seat - of Henry Heron, esq. in which the lady Margaret, mother to Hen. VII. - was once entertained. The house was handsomely rebuilt by the present - possessor’s father, Sir Henry Heron, knight of the Bath; but the chapel - is old, built, or licensed at least, anno 1309, as an inscription over - the door tells us. In it is an old brass eagle with an inscription - round it.<a id="FNanchor_20" href="#Footnote_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a></p> - - <p>Formerly, there is reason to suppose, the gentry had many parks - near their seats. Records in your possession show that the prior of - Spalding, about 1265, compelled Thomas lord Moulton to compound with - him for the venison in his park at Moulton; and in Holbech, about a - mile south of the church, are lands in my tenure, called the Park. That - fish and fowl is here plentiful, no one will wonder; but particularly - the pigeons are noted for large and fine.</p> - - <div class="sidenote"><i>Decoys.</i></div> - - <div class="sidenote">TAB. II.</div> - - <p>In the out-skirts of it are great numbers of decoys, places so called - where they take an incredible quantity of wild ducks,<a id="FNanchor_21" href="#Footnote_21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a> mostly sent - up to London: they are large pits dug in the fens, with five canals - shooting from them, each ending in a point after one angle made, well - planted with willows, fallows, osiers, and such underwood. I have given - a drawing of one. The method of catching fowl in short is this: the - decoy-man coming down to the angle of the pipe, or canal, which is - covered with nets and over-shadowed with trees, peeps through the holes - in the reedy sheds, disposed like the scenes at the play-house, and - joined by the others with holes at the bottom, about as high as a man’s - breast: when he sees a sufficient quantity of wild ducks in the mouth - of the great pond, by whistling softly, the tame ducks wing-stocked, - and brought up for that purpose, swim into the pipe covered with the - nets, to feed upon the corn he throws over the sheds into the water: - this tempts the wild ducks in to partake of the bait: in the mean time - a dog they teach runs round the half-sheds, in and out at the holes in - the bottom, which amuses the fowl so that they apprehend no danger: - when he has brought them far enough into the pipe, stooping he goes - along the scenes, till he is got beyond the ducks, and rising up shows - himself at the half-scenes, <span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">19</span>which frightens the wild ducks only, the - opposite way into the narrow end of the pipe, which terminates in a - fatal net: and all this is done without any noise or knowledge of the - rest of the wild ducks in the great pond; so that the decoy-man having - dispatched one pipe, goes round to execute the same game at all the - rest, whereby infinite quantities are catched in a year’s time at one - of these places only.</p> - - <figure class="illowp100" id="i_018"> - <div class="plateno"><i>2</i></div> - <div><i><b>The Form of the Decoys in Lincolnshire.</b></i></div> - <div class="small right"><i>Richardo M. Masfey M.D.<br>tabulam d.d. Wˢ<span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span> Stukeley</i></div> - <img src="images/i_018.jpg" alt=""> - </figure> - - <p>In running over what few remarkables I have observed in this country, - I shall exclude Marsh-land, because in Norfolk, observing only that - their churches are very beautiful, numerous, large, and stately; that - here are, too, many such of the <em>tumuli</em>. You will indulge me the - liberty of giving the etymology of places all along: Cicero likes that - method; <cite>Acad. Quæst.</cite> 1. 8. <i lang="la">verborum explicatio probatur</i>, - i. e. <i lang="la">qua de causa quæque essent ita nominata quam etymologiam - appellabant</i>: and though there be often more of pleasant subtlety - than reality in such matters, yet it serves to find out and preserve - some old words in a language that otherwise are in danger of oblivion. - <span class="sidenote"><i>The</i> <span class="smcap">Washes</span>.</span> - I shall begin with the Washes so much talked of, and so terrible to - strangers, though without much reason; if they take a guide, which - is highly adviseable. The meaning is this: they are the mouths of - the river Welland, called Fossdike Wash, and the river Ouse, called - Cross-Keys Wash, running into the sea, and inclosing this country - almost round. <em>Wase Sax. lutum, oose.</em> Twice in a day, six hours - each time during the recess of the tide, they are fordable and easy - to be passed over: the intermediate six hours they are covered with - the flux of the ocean. Mr. Merret, of Boston, son to Dr. Merret, has - given a table in the Philos. Trans. which I improved for the benefit - of travellers, and is graven on a handsome copperplate by my friend, - Mr. John Redman: but I would have passengers not to trust too far to - the minutes in the table, because at some times of the year the tides - will anticipate a few minutes, at others will be retarded, and at all - times (not to say any thing of the difference of clocks and watches) - south-east winds make the tides flow earlier than ordinary, north-west - protract them; so that a wise traveller, in this and all other cases, - will take time and tide by the forelock. Formerly people travelled what - they call the Long Wash, between Lynn and Boston, intirely upon the - sands or skirts of the ocean, but now quite disused and impracticable: - there it was, that king John lost all his carriages among the creeks - and quicksands. The memory of it is retained to this day, by the corner - of a bank between Cross-Keys Wash and Lynn, called now King’s Corner.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Lutton.</div> - - <p>In Lutton was born the famous Dr. Busby, master of Westminster school, - who has beautified the church, and founded a school there: he owes his - education to the Welbys, an ancient family in this country. I suppose - the town has its name from the general drainage of the country, which - was here in one channel united: they call such Lades, or Lodes, to this - day: this probably is as ancient as any town in Holland. South from - it (and therefore)<span class="sidenote smcap">Sutton.</span> Sutton church is of an ancient make, especially - the stone work of the steeple: the upper part of the church has been - built of brick in the memory of man. John of Gaunt owned Sutton, and - other vast manors and townships in this country. At Tyd St. Giles, - Nicholas Breakspear was curate, who afterwards became pope Adrian IV. - St. James’s chapel is built of a large sort of brick, such as I have - seen no where else; not Roman.<span class="sidenote">TAB. XI.</span> Near it is Ivy-Cross, of stone, in a - <i lang="la">quadrivium</i>; a curious piece, upon Ravensbank.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Gedney.</div> - - <p>Gedney church is very beautiful, built, I believe, chiefly by the - abbots of Croyland, who had a house, no doubt, very stately, on the - north side<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">20</span> of the church, and large possessions in the parish: the - upper part of the tower is of the same date with the church, built - upon older work; probably both the work of the abbots, together with - contributions of the rich families that formerly lived here. In the - chancel window a religious in his habit. There is an old monument of - the Welbys, and upon the south door is this inscription:</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry" lang="la"> - <div class="stanza antiqua"> - <div class="i0">PAX XPISIT HUIC DOMUI</div> - <div class="i0">ET OMNIBUS HABITANTIBUS</div> - <div class="i0">IN EA HIC REQUIES NOSTRA.</div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">The town seems to be derived from <i lang="la">Gaden-ea, aqua ad viam</i>: - <em>Ea</em> is a watering place properly for cattle, and roads we still - call gates in this country.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Fleet.</div> - - <p>The next parish, Fleet, from the Anglo-Saxonic <em>Fleot</em>, - <em>æstuarium</em>, <em>fluxus</em>, still called Fleet-Haven, is - remarkable for the steeple standing at a distance from the church: from - this place the family of the Fletes come, who have made a considerable - figure in the country ever since we have any written memorials.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Holbech.</div> - - <p>Holbech (the Salt-Beech) church is very large, and well built, a - strong tower and lofty steeple, dedicate to all saints: formerly there - were organs and fine painted glass, with many coats of arms, but none - left except the Holbeches: Vert, six escallops argent, three, two, - one.<span class="sidenote">TAB. XXI.</span> There is a fine monument of the Littleburys, an ancient and - flourishing family in these parts:<span class="sidenote">TAB. I. 2d Vol.</span> upon his shield is his coat, Argent, - two lions passant gardant gules: there is a brass inscription of a - lady of the Welby family, wife to Sir Richard Leake, knight. <span class="antiqua" lang="la">Orate - pro anima Johanne Welby quondam filiae Richardi Leake militis nuper - uxoris Littlebury que obiit xviii die mensis decembris anno domini - mccclxxxviii. cujus anime propitietur deus Amen.</span> Here was born - Henry Rands, alias de Holbech, bishop of Lincoln, who was one of the - compilers of the Liturgy: here formerly flourished the ancient families - of Fleet, Dacres, Harrington, Barrington, Welby, Multon.</p> - - <p>In the year 1696, in digging at Mr. Adlard Stukeley’s gardens, they - found an old brass seal, which I gave to Sir Hans Sloan; a man in - long robes, with two escutcheons, on one three cocks, on the other a - portcullis; the legend, +<span class="allsmcap">SOVRABLA DEUS OLER</span>. In the year 1698, - an iron spur with a very long shank was found: in my possession. A - remarkable rarity in nature I met withal, an admirable ossification in - the <em>omentum</em> of a sheep, white and solid as ivory. Mr. Cheselden - has printed a cut of it in the second edition of his Anatomy. I gave it - to Dr. Mead.</p> - - <p>From the ancient churchwardens’ accounts, before the time of the - Reformation, from anno 1453, many curious remarks may be made, in - relation to prices of things, wages, superstitious customs, old - families, and the like: a specimen whereof I have here annexed.</p> - - <p class="hang2"><i>ss. A Boake of the Stuffe in the Cheyrche of</i> Holbeche - <i>sowld by Chyrchewardyns of the same according to the injunctyons - of the Kynges Magyste.</i></p> - - <table> - <thead> - <tr> - <th> </th> - <th><i>s.</i></th> - <th><i>d.</i></th> - </tr> - </thead> - <tbody> - <tr> - <td class="hang">An. dni. M. ccccc. xlvii<sup>o</sup>. First to Antony - Heydon the trynite with the tabernacle</td> - <td class="tdr"><div>ii.</div></td> - <td class="tdr"><div>iiii.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="hang">It. to Wm. Calow thelder the tabernacle of Nicholas and Jamys</td> - <td class="tdr"><div>vi.</div></td> - <td class="tdr"><div> viii.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="hang"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">21</span>It. to Wm. Davy on tabernacle of our lady of pytye</td> - <td class="tdr"><div>iiii.</div></td> - <td> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="hang">It. to Wm. Calow the younger on other tabernacle of our lady</td> - <td class="tdr"><div>iii.</div></td> - <td class="tdr"><div>vi.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="hang">It. to Antony Heydon the ymage of the Antony</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div>xx.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="hang">It. to Humphry Hornesey on sygne</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div>vi.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="hang">It. to Antony Heydon on other synge and a lytyl tabernacle</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div>xx.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="hang">It. to Wm. Calow the younger the tabernacle of Thomas Bekete</td> - <td class="tdr"><div>iiii.</div></td> - <td class="tdr"><div>viii.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="hang">It. to Wm. Davy the sygne whereon the plowghe did stond</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div>xvi.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="hang">It. to John Thorpe a chyst in St. Jamys chapell</td> - <td class="tdr"><div>ii.</div></td> - <td> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="hang">It. to Lincone howld woode</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div>iiii.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="hang">It. to Nicholas Foster the banke that the George stoode on</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div>iiii.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="hang">It. to Antony Heydon ij alters</td> - <td class="tdr"><div>ii.</div></td> - <td class="tdr"><div>viii.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="hang">It. to Wm. Stowe ij lytyll tabernacles</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div>viii.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="hang">It. to Henry Elman on lytyll tabernacle</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div>ii.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="hang">It. to John Thorpe for Harod’s coate</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div>xviii.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="hang">It. to Wm. Calow the younger all thapostyls coats and other raggs</td> - <td class="tdr"><div>viii.</div></td> - <td class="tdr"><div>iiii.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="hang">It. to Henry Elman for vii baner clothes</td> - <td class="tdr"><div>ix.</div></td> - <td class="tdr"><div>iiii.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="hang">It. to Antony Heydon on blewe clothe</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div>ix.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="hang">It. to Smithes on pece of howlde saye</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div>iii.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="hang">It. to Richerd Richerson the crosse and other gydys</td> - <td class="tdr"><div>ii.</div></td> - <td class="tdr"><div>iii.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="hang">It. to Mr. Byllysby ij tablys</td> - <td class="tdr"><div>iiii.</div></td> - <td class="tdr"><div>iiii.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="hang">It. to Antony Heydon for the coats of the iij kyngs of Coloyne</td> - <td class="tdr"><div>v.</div></td> - <td class="tdr"><div>iiii.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="hang">It. to Humphry Hornesey the canypye that was born over the sacrament</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div>xx.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="hang">It. to Wm. Calow thelder and John Thorpe iiij owlde pantyd clothes</td> - <td class="tdr"><div>vi.</div></td> - <td class="tdr"><div>viii.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="hang">It. to Antony Heydon on wood candlestyke</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div>iiii.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="hang">It. to Wm. Calow the younger on lytyll bell</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div>vi.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="hang">It. to Antony Heydon on other lytyll bell</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div>vi.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="hang">It. to Wm. Davy for the tabernacles that stode at the end of the hy alter</td> - <td class="tdr"><div>viii.</div></td> - <td> </td> - </tr> - </tbody> - </table> - - <table> - <thead> - <tr> - <th> </th> - <th><i>l.</i></th> - <th><i>s.</i></th> - <th><i>d.</i></th> - </tr> - </thead> - <tbody> - <tr> - <td><i>Sm.</i></td> - <td>iiii.</td> - <td>ii.</td> - <td>iiii.</td> - </tr> - </tbody> - </table> - - <div class="center mt2"><i>A. D.</i> m. ccccc xlvii.</div> - - <table> - <tbody> - <tr> - <td class="hang">It. to Wm. Calow the younger on rod of iyron</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div>iiii.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="hang">It. to Robt. Gyffon for ij barrs of iyron</td> - <td class="tdr"><div>v.</div></td> - <td> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="hang">It. to Antony Heydon xx score and x hund. of latyn at ii <i>s.</i> and xi <i>d.</i> the score</td> - <td class="tdr"><div>lxix.</div></td> - <td class="tdr" style="width: 4em;"><div>xi. ob.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="hang">It. to Richerd Richerson ij lytyll tabernacles</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div>viii.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="hang">It. of John Suger for the chyrche lond</td> - <td class="tdr"><div>ii.</div></td> - <td class="tdr"><div>viii.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="hang">It. of the burial of Mr. Byllysby</td> - <td class="tdr"><div>iii.</div></td> - <td class="tdr"><div>iiii.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="hang">It. of John Mays wyffe for the Dracon</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div>iii.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="hang">It. of Alys Boyds debt to xps corpys gilde</td> - <td class="tdr"><div>ii.</div></td> - <td> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="hang">It. for on bell<span style="margin-left: 65%;"><i>l.</i> xviii.</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><div>ii.</div></td> - <td> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="hang">It. for seyten vestments and trashe in the chest in trinete quere sold to Davy</td> - <td class="tdr"><div>xxxiii.</div></td> - <td class="tdr"><div>iiii.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="hang">It. of Wm. Burnit for pilows</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div>xvi.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="hang">It. of Wm. Calow the younger for eyrne</td> - <td class="tdr"><div>xx.</div></td> - <td> </td> - </tr> - </tbody> - </table> - - <table> - <thead> - <tr> - <th> </th> - <th><i>l.</i></th> - <th><i>s.</i></th> - <th><i>d.</i></th> - </tr> - </thead> - <tbody> - <tr> - <td><i>Sm. totalis</i></td> - <td>xxviii.</td> - <td>iiii.</td> - <td>iiii. ob.</td> - </tr> - </tbody> - </table> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_020_1"> - <div class="plateno"><i>21</i></div> - <div><b>Ecclesiam de HOLBECH <i>in Agro</i> Linc. Lucio<br><i>Henrico</i> - <i>Hibbins Arm. d.d. W. Stukeley</i> 1722</b></div> - <img src="images/i_020_1.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>I. Harris sculp</i></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_020_2"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>1·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <div><b>Littlebury in Holbech Church</b></div> - <img class="mt5" src="images/i_020_2.jpg" alt=""> - </figure> - - <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">22</span></p> - - <p>More superstitious ornaments of the church were sold in queen - Elizabeth’s time, 1560.</p> - - <div class="center">From this book I extracted the following catalogue of the Ministers<br> - of the parish.</div> - - <table> - <tbody> - <tr> - <td>John Clerk chaplain.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div>Anno</div></td> - <td class="tdr"><div>1450.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>John Risceby vicar.</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div>1460.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Thomas George chaplain then.</td> - <td> </td> - <td> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Robert Jelow.</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div>1469.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>William Greyborn vicarius perpetuus.</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div>1474.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Sir John Welby priest.</td> - <td> </td> - <td> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Sir John Lyard perpetual vicar.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div>obiit</div></td> - <td class="tdr"><div>1496.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td style="padding-left: 3.7em;">Baxter.</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div>1508.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Ds. Neel capellanus.</td> - <td> </td> - <td> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Richard Wytte.</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div>1520.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Sir John Scapull.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div>ob.</div></td> - <td class="tdr"><div>1524.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Sir Robert Manning.</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div>1550.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Sir Thomas West.</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div>1561.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Thomas Gybson precher.</td> - <td> </td> - <td> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Othoneel Bradbury.</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div>1600.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Matthew Clarke vicar of Holbech.</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div>1610.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Henry Williamson.</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div>1630.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>John Grante.</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div>1633.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>John Bellenden.</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div>1640.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>John Pymlowe.</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div>1647.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>John Pymlowe.</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div>1687.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>George Arnett.</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdr" style="width: 4em;"><div>1720.<a id="FNanchor_22" href="#Footnote_22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a></div></td> - </tr> - </tbody> - </table> - - <p>In 1529, a new organ cost 3l. 6s. 8d. The organ in the church was - taken down 1568. Anno 1453, Wm. Enot, of Lynn, epi. and Henry Nele of - Holbech, gave the saints bell. Another guild of St. Thomas; another - of our Lady. The vestry on the south side of the choir was taken - down 1567. There was formerly a chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary - at Holbech hurn, near the ancient seat of the Littleburys; standing - 1515: another chapel thereabouts, dedicated to St. Nicholas: another - in Wignal’s gate, near Holbech hall, by the river side, dedicated to - St. Peter. About 1719, I saw many corpses dug up in the yard at making - a ditch there. Another in the fen ends. An ancient guild of Corpus - Christi stood near Barney pit, where is now a house once belonging to - Moses Stukeley, who owned the estate thereof. An hospital founded by - John de Kirkton, in his own messuage, by licence of king Ed. III dat. - Nov. 16, for a warden, chaplain, and fifteen poor people: he endowed it - with several lands in Holbech, which he held of the abbot of Croyland, - who by licence permitted the same to be annexed to this hospital of All - Saints in Holbech, for which he paid 20l. This stood, as I imagine, - where now is the Chequer inn, over against the church. I remember the - old stone-work arched doors and windows with mullions, pulled down - when rebuilt by my father, and many of the carved stones were laid in - the foundation of the houses he built by the river side at the bridge. - See Dugdale’s <cite>Monasticon</cite>. A free-school was founded here, about - 1669, by George Farmer, esq. who endowed it with lands, which with - others since given are now worth about 50l. per annum; which I am bound - in gratitude not to forget. A. D. 1699, there were belonging to the - fifty-four bounds of this parish,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">23</span> - paying rates, acres 6234; in the marsh, acres 6532; and since added - for the last intake, acres 170. The old cross in the market-place was - pulled down 1683. 1253, Thomas de Multon, lord Egremont, obtained - a market and fair to<span class="sidenote">TAB II. 2d Vol.</span> Holbech, 31 Oct. 37 Hen. III. at Windsor, and - probably built that cross.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp70" id="i_023"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>2·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <div class="large"><b><i>Holbech Cross Lincolnshire</i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_023.jpg" alt=""> - <div><i>Ob amorem erga Solum Natale, Temporum Ignorantia direptam restituit - W<sup>s</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span> Stukeley 1722</i></div> - </figure> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Whaplode.</div> - - <p>Quaplode, called anciently Capellade, i. e. <i lang="la">Capella ad Ladam s. - fluvium</i>, has a very ancient church, founded by the abbots of - Croyland: the tower stands on the south side. In the upper and south - windows are these coats of arms. Barry of six azure and argent; Azure, - a bend gules, charged with three roses argent; Argent, two lions - passant gardant gules, <em>Littlebury</em>. In the east window of the - north chapel, <em>Littlebury</em>, and Or, a fesse between two chevronels - gules; and Sable, a fret argent, <em>Harrington</em>: Azure, on a bend - gules, three roses argent, as before. I have a copy of the foundation - of this church. Here is a large monument of the Irbys.</p> - - <div class="center large bold mt3"><span class="gesperrt2">GENEALOGY </span>of<span class="gesperrt2"> MOULTON</span>.</div> - - <figure class="illowp100" id="i_023a"> - <img src="images/i_023a.jpg" alt="Genealogy of Moulton"> - <div><a href="#t_023">See transcription</a></div> - </figure> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Moulton.</div> - - <p>Moulton, or Multon, probably has its name from a mill, which anciently, - perhaps, were not so common as now. There is a good church, and very - fine spire; as also a good free-school of near 100l. per ann. value in - lands.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">24</span> Moulton hall, whose last ruins I have seen, was the seat of - Thomas de Multon, lord Egremont, a great man in these parts. His hand - is among the barons at <cite>Magna Charta</cite>. Between these two parishes, - in a green lane northwards, stands a little stone called Elho stone, - whence the name of this hundred is derived: it is about the middle - thereof, and was formerly the main road across the country, now called - Old Spalding Gate. Old men tell us, here was kept in ancient times an - annual court; I suppose a convention, <i lang="la">sub dio</i>, of the adjacent - parts, to treat of their general affairs. A wood hard by is called - Elhostone wood.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Weston.</div> - - <p>Weston, because west from the last town. Here is the stately chapel of - Wykeham, the villa of the rich priors of Spalding, built by Clement de - Hatfield, prior, who died anno 1318. In 1051, Spalding priory made by - Thorold, sheriff of Lincoln, out of his own manor-house. Many places - near the old sea-bank are called <em>hurns</em>, signifying an angle. - Here is a little leam called the Wik: Mr. Camden, in <cite>Bucks</cite>, - says it signifies the winding of a river, as Cowhurn hard by.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Spalding.</div> - - <p>Spalding has been famous for its ancient and rich priory founded before - the Conquest, and for the residence of Ivo Tailbois, the lord of this - country, by gift of William the Conqueror, the site of whose castle is - on the north-east part of the town. The town-hall was built by William - Hobson. But of this place we expect from you, sir, a more particular - account.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Pynchbek.</div> - - <p>In Pynchbek church-windows are the arms of Ogle, of Fleet; Argent, - on two bars sable, six escallops of the first, empaled with <em>De la - Launde</em>. Pyncebeck seems to come from the Cimbrian <em>pinken</em>, - <em>lucere</em>, from the clearness of its water.</p> - - <p>Many towns, on both sides Deeping Fen, end in <em>ington</em>, - <em>ingham</em>, as lying upon the Mead. <span class="sidenote smcap">Donington.</span>Donington is very hilly, full of - elevations or dunes. Thomas Cowley, esq. of Donington, who died about - 1718, left all his estate, which was considerable, to the poor of every - parish where it lay, whereof 400l. per ann. to Donington, where he - built a school-house, and endowed it.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Algarkirk.</div> - - <p>Algarkirk has a fine church, in which are some water-bougets carved - on the oak seats in escutcheons. They say here lived the famous count - Algar,<a id="FNanchor_23" href="#Footnote_23" class="fnanchor">[23]</a> commander of the Holland men in many battles against the - Danes, of whom they show an image in stone in the church-yard. I found - there this inscription,</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza" lang="la"> - <div class="i0"><i>Sis testis Xpe, quod non jacet hic lapis iste</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Quisquis es si transeas sta perlege plora</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Corpus ut ornetur sit lapis ut memoretur.</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Sum quod eris fueramque quod es pro me precor ora.</i></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Wiberton.</div> - - <p>Wiberton, they say, has its name from Guibertus, a great man here - formerly. There is a place called Multon hall, which belonged to the - aforementioned Thomas de Multon. Here is likewise Titton hall: the - chapel is now converted into a stable.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Frampton.</div> - - <p>Hard by is Frampton, probably from the Anglo-Saxonic <em>Faran</em>, - <em>trajicere</em>: for here they passed over the river in a ferry, - before Boston bridge was built; as at Framton, in Gloucestershire, - upon the Severn, and Framilode passage. Farnton by Newark, where - now is the ferry over the Trent. Gosberton, from <em>Gosbèrt</em>, or - <em>Gosbright</em>, I suppose lord of the town before <span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">25</span>the Conquest. - Fossdike seems to be <em>Fordsdike</em>, where we pass over the Washes.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Skirbeck.</div> - - <p>Skirebec doubtless has its name from the Saxon, <em>scire</em>, division, - because here the river parts the hundreds. Here was an hospital of - knights of St. John of Jerusalem, now intirely demolished, though the - church was standing within memory of man. There was another religious - house near the church: the remains of it is now the parsonage-house. - Such names of towns as Fishtoft, Butterwick, Swineshead, Cowbyte, and - the like, seem easy enough.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Sibsey.</div> - - <p>Sibsey church has very handsome pillars and circular arches, somewhat - after the Roman mode. The top of the steeple is added upon the old - work; perhaps from its watery situation; <em>sipan</em>, to steep. - <span class="sidenote smcap">Leverton.</span>Leverton, <i lang="la">Leofrici oppidum</i>: he was a potent man thereabouts at - the time of the Normans coming, and gave to the town much common: his - deed of gift is now in possession of the reverend and worthy vicar, Mr. - William Falkner, which I have seen.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Frieston.</div> - - <p>Frieston, a <em>frith</em>, <em>æstuarium</em>; so Ald Friston in Sussex, - near Cuckmere haven. Here was an opulent monastery founded by Guy de - Croun, whose genealogy I shall not think much to recite, because it - relates to the antiquities of this country, and in some measure shows - the reason of what my friend Mr. Becket, surgeon, much wondered at - when he searched the old repository of wills at the Prerogative Office - in London, where he observed more of this country than any other in - England.</p> - - <h3 class="large">The <span class="gesperrt2">GENEALOGY</span></h3> - - <p class="hang">Of the <span class="smcap">Craons</span>, <em>Credon</em>, <em>Crodon</em>, <em>Croun</em>, the - most illustrious family of Anjou, and one of the most illustrious - in France, which came into England with William the Conqueror. The - barony of Craon is the first and most considerable in Anjou: it is - a small city in that province upon the river Oudon near Bretagne, - encompassed with walls.<a id="FNanchor_24" href="#Footnote_24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a></p> - - <div class="center">A. D. 940.</div> - - <div class="figcenter illowp100" id="i_025"> - <img src="images/i_025.jpg" alt="Genealogy of the Craons"> - <span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">26</span><img src="images/i_026.jpg" alt=""> - <span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">27</span><img src="images/i_027.jpg" alt=""> - <span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">28</span><img src="images/i_028.jpg" alt=""> - <div><a href="#t_025">See transcription</a></div> - </div> - - <p>The site of Roushall, where the barons Ros lived, is in the parish of Fishtoft.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Vainona.</div> - - <p>In Wainfleet church, the bishop of Winchester, whose name was Patten, - founder of Magdalen college, Oxford, erected a marble monument for - his father, where are his coats of arms in the windows. In the town<span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">29</span> - he built a handsome chapel of brick, and endowed it with a pretty - good revenue, to pray for his and his ancestors souls. Now it is - made a free-school house. This place still retains its ancient name; - for I am certain it is the Vainona mentioned by the famous author of - <cite>Ravenna</cite>, who has happily preserved so many of our old British - cities. The learned Mr. Baxter, in his Glossary of British Antiquities, - with a sagacity peculiar to himself, has corrected this from Navione. - The sea has added much ground to this place since the Roman times, and - then their city stood higher up by the churches, which is a mile off - the present town. The haven was near St. Thomas church, now called - North-holm: it is still very deep thereabouts, and appears to have been - broad, being a pretty good river, whilst the waters of the east fen - ran through it, and kept it open: it was thirty foot wide a mile above - the churches, as appears by the old cloughs there; for they had wisely - contrived by that means to keep out the salt water and heighten the - fresh, which no doubt would have preserved the haven to this day, had - they not foolishly suffered the east-fen water to be carried to Boston. - It is apparent the natural course of water here (as we before observed - of other parts of the level) is eastward: the east fen is lower than - the west fen. At Nordike bridge anciently were four arches: the edge of - the piers which cut the water was westward; which shows that the water - originally run eastward, and the whole level was drained that way, - though now most currents run to Boston. The inhabitants have a constant - tradition, that this was a great town; but when the haven was filled - up, Boston became the sea-port: likewise they say there is a road - across the east fen, called Salter’s road, which probably was the Roman - road; and there are people now alive who knew such as had remembered - it. Doubtless this was a place where the Romans made their salt of the - sea water, to supply all this province; and it is not improbable that - this road led to Banovallum, Lindum, &c. Many salt hills are visible - from Wainfleet to Friskney. The king is still lord of the soil of this - old Roman city.</p> - - <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Burgh</span>, <i>a</i> Ro. <i>fort</i>.</div> - - <p>Three miles north, and as much from Skegness and the sea, is Burgh, a - market-town, whose name drew my attention. I found it to be a Roman - <em>castrum</em> to guard the sea-coasts, probably against the Saxon - rovers: it is a piece of very high ground, partly natural, partly - raised by Roman labour, overlooking the wide extended marshes, perhaps - in those times covered with salt water, at least in spring tides. There - are two artificial <em>tumuli</em>, one very high, called Cock-hill. In - St. Mary’s church-yard, now demolished, Roman coins have been found. I - saw a very fair and large Antoninus Pius in brass, cos. <span class="smcap">iiii</span>. - in possession of Tho. Linny. In the yards and gardens about the town - they frequently dig up bodies. St. Peter’s church is large and good. - There appear no Roman ways, <em>vallum</em>, or ditch, to inclose the - town, which is a sort of knoll, or rising ground.</p> - - <p>I was told of a Roman aqueduct of earth, found at Spilsby. In Halton - church hard by is this inscription on a flat stone. + <span class="antiqua">SIRE WATER - BER GIST ICY DE SA ALME DEUS EIT MERCI</span>. Another, a cross-legged - knight: on his shield a lion rampant. At Hagnaby, a religious house - founded by Agnes de Orreby. Well, by Ralf de Hauvile. Near Well, on a - chalky heath, are three curious Celtic barrows contiguous and joined - one into another, composed of chalk: the chalk in Lincolnshire by - Alford answers to that in Norfolk. Tateshall collegiate church founded - by Ralf Cromwell. Many <em>tumuli</em> hereabouts, as at Hagnaby and - other places, but none so remarkable a curiosity as those by the broad - road upon the descent of the high country, overlooking the vast level - towards Boston.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">30</span> At Revesby, by the seat of Joseph Banks, esq; there - is an oval inclosed with a broad ditch: the longest diameter, which - is somewhat above 300 foot, is precisely east and west; the other a - little above 100: the entrance to it is on the middle of the south - side: within, at each end of the length, is a large <em>tumulus</em> - 100 foot in diameter: they are equal in shape and similar positure, a - large vacuum of 100 foot lying between: it is very regularly formed: - the length of the oval ditch that incloses the two <em>tumuli</em> is - equal to thrice the breadth: the <em>tumuli</em> are large and high: - that rising on the north side, without the ditch, is of an odd figure, - but similar. It seems to have been a place of sepulture; perhaps two - British kings were there buried; and the height on the north side - was the place whereon they sacrificed horses, or the like, to the - <em>manes</em> of the deceased. Or is it a place of religious worship - among the old Britons? and the two hills may possibly be the temples - of the Sun and Moon. I am inclined to think it ancient, because of the - measure: the breadth is equal to 100 Celtic feet, as I call them; the - length to 300.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Banovallum.</div> - - <p>Horncastle was undoubtedly the Banovallum in <em>Ravennas</em>: - the latter part of the word is Latin, so that it signifies the - fortification upon the river Bane. <span class="sidenote">TAB. LXXXIX.</span>It is of a low situation, placed - in the angle of the two brooks meeting here, the Bane and Waring; - whence the modern name Horncastle, which signifies an angle, all this - country over, as you know in your neighbouring Cow-hurn, Holbech-hurn, - Guy-hurn, &c. I will not venture to conceit it came from the ancient - way of painting rivers horned, from their windings and turnings; of - which we may find a hint in Burton’s Comment. on Antoninus’s Itinerary, - pag. 56. and they that please may consult Bochart’s <cite>Phaleg</cite>, II. - 22. where are many proofs of the ancients expressing an angle by the - term <em>horn</em>. Skinner in his <cite>Etymologicon</cite> rightly affirms - it comes from the Saxon word <em>hyrn</em>; and Ælfricus expounds it by - the word <em>cornu</em>. It is probable the Romans were induced to make - a station here at first from its convenient situation, easily rendered - defensible by a <em>vallum</em> drawn across the aperture from one river - to the other; and thence came the Roman name. Afterwards they built - the indissoluble stone wall, whole <em>vestigia</em> are manifest the - whole compass round, and in some places pretty high, as three or four - yards, and four yards thick. It serves for sides of gardens, cellars, - out-houses, &c. as chance offers, inclosing the market-place, church, - and good part of the town. It is a perfect parallelogram, composed of - two squares: at the angles have been square towers, as they report: - the gates were in the middle of three sides, and I suppose a postern - into the meadows called the Holmes at the union of the two rivulets. I - suspect originally the river Bane ran nearer to the wall in that part, - and behind the manor-house: the garden there has been heightened, and - the river pushed farther off, and turned with a larger bow to favour - the people who live in Far-street, and especially the tanners, who - are very numerous there: both rivers probably were wider and deeper - than now, as the Celtic name of <em>Bane altus</em> intimates, which at - present is conformable to reality lower down. Some do not scruple to - affirm it was a sea-port, that is, navigable. The Waring arises but - a mile or two off. The field across it south of the town is called - the Thowng and Cagthorp, and probably was its <em>pomæria</em>, from - the Saxon word <em>pang</em>, <em>campus</em>, <em>ager</em>. Here they - find a great number of Roman coins. I saw a brass coin of Vespasian; - reverse, an eagle, <span class="allsmcap">CONSECRATIO</span>; dug up from under the walls - of Banovallum: Mr. Hograve of the place has it now: but Horncastle was - not built in the time of Vespasian. I saw, in possession of Mr. Terry - of Lincoln, a silver Vespasian found here; reverse, a sitting Genius - with a sympulum in her<span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">31</span> hand, and <span class="allsmcap">DN. MA</span>. In 1734, a girl - digging sand by the road side going from Les Yates to Horncastle, and - near Horncastle, dug up an earthen urn full of Roman coins, rings, &c. - Mr. Terry collector gave me some of them. Near the walls upon digging - cellars they sometimes find bodies buried. A rivulet called Temsford - runs into the Bane. The school lands were given by private persons, - and it was incorporated by queen Elizabeth: their seal is a castle and - hunting-horn: and a horn is the brand for the town cattle upon the - common. It is dubious whether Bowbridge has its name from the arch of - the bridge, or from its being the entrance into the town from Lindum - through the gate called formerly a Bow. This way is the maypole-hill, - where probably stood an Hermes in Roman times. The boys annually keep - up the festival of the <em>Floralia</em> on May day, making a procession - to this hill with <em>May gads</em> (as they call them) in their hands: - this is a white willow wand, the bark peeled off, tied round with - cowslips, a <em>thyrsus</em> of the Bacchanals: at night they have a - bonfire and other merriment; which is really a sacrifice, or religious - festival. The king formerly had this whole town in his possession, - until it was bestowed on the bishop of Carlisle. Near the conflux - of the two brooks was lately a pleasant garden, and a place called - Julian’s Bower, much talked of.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp68" id="i_030"> - <div class="plateno"><i>89</i></div> - <div class="bold"><span class="smcap">Banovallum.</span><br><i class="small">Sept. 1. 1722.</i></div> - <img src="images/i_030.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="bold">Josepho Banks <i>de Revesby Ar.</i> Romanorum hæc Vestigia d.d. W. Stukeley.</div> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley. Del.</i></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100" id="i_031"> - <div class="plateno"><i>19</i></div> - <img src="images/i_031.jpg" alt=""> - <figcaption class="bold bbox" style="width: 20em;"> - <i>Amicissimo Henrico Pacey Ar.<br> - Prospectum Bostoniæ Suæ d.d. W. Stukeley<br> - Aug. 29. 1722.</i> - </figcaption> - </figure> - - <p><em>Leak</em> signifies a watery marshy place. <em>Wrangle</em> an - <em>ab</em> A. S. <em>Wear lacus</em>, and <em>hangel arundo</em>, - <i lang="la">lacus arundinibus obsita</i>? Return we to<span class="sidenote smcap">Boston.</span> Boston, <i lang="la">Fanum Sti. - Botulphi</i>, the saint of sea-faring men. St. Botulf (the bishop) - his body lay in St. Edmund’s monastery at Bury. Wm. Malmsb. p. 137. - This seems to have been the last bounds northward of the <em>Iceni</em> - in most antient times; therefore its old name was <em>Icanhoe</em>, - or <i lang="la">Icenorum munimentum</i>, as Mr. Baxter interprets it in his - Glossary. I guess the first monastery founded here was on the south - of the present church; for I saw vast stone walls dug up there, - and a plain leaden cross taken up; in my possession. Many were the - religious houses here in superstitious times, whose lands were given - to the corporation by Hen. VIII. as likewise the estate of the lord - Hussey, beheaded then at Lincoln for rebellion: he lived in one of - the houses where is a great square tower of brick, called now Hussey - tower. There are many such in this country, as that now called Rochford - and sometimes Richmond tower, which is very high. Queen Mary was a - great benefactress to this corporation, and gave them lands called - Erection-lands, to pay a vicar, a lecturer, and two school-masters: - they have now a revenue of a thousand pounds per annum. In the - parsonage-house is a scutcheon with a pastoral staff behind it thus: a - fess charged with a fish and two annulets between three plates, each - charged with a cross fitché. <span class="sidenote">TAB. XIX.</span>The church, I think, is the largest parish - church (without cross ailes) in the world: it is a hundred foot wide - and three hundred foot long within the walls: the roof is handsomely - cieled with Irish oak supported by four and twenty tall and slender - pillars: many remains of fine brasses in the church, none so perfect - as this in the south aile. Under the figures of the man and woman this - inscription,</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza antiqua medium" lang="la"> - <div class="i0">Ecce sub hoc lapide henricus Mete sistit humatus</div> - <div class="i0">vi mortis rapida generosus semper vocitatus</div> - <div class="i0">hic quisquis veneris ipsum precibus memoraris.</div> - <div class="i0">sponsam defunctam simul aliciam sibi junctam</div> - <div class="i0">anno mil C quater quadragenoque deno</div> - <div class="i0">marcia quarto dies, extat ei Requies.</div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">The tower is the highest (100 yards) and noblest in Europe, flattering - a weary traveller with its astonishing aspect even at ten miles - distance. It is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">32</span> easily seen forty mile round this level country, and - farther by sea: the lantern at top is very beautiful, and the thinness - of the stone-work is admirable. There was a prodigious clock-bell, - which could be heard six or seven miles round, with many old verses - round it: about the year 1710 they knocked it in pieces, without taking - the inscription. Twenty yards from the foundation of this tower runs - the rapid Witham, through a bridge of wood. On the south side of the - church-yard was, some few years ago, a curious monument<a id="FNanchor_25" href="#Footnote_25" class="fnanchor">[25]</a> (as they - say) of one of the builders of the church, in stone, of arched work, - but now intirely demolished; and in the market place in my memory was - an old and large cross, with a vault underneath, <span class="sidenote">TAB. III. 2d vol.</span>steps all around - it, and at top a stone pyramid of thirty foot high, but at this time - quite destroyed. I found here an old brass seal of William Chetwynd, - with his coat of arms, A fesse lozengé between three mullets, which I - gave to the honourable gentleman of that name. Several frieries here, - black, white and grey; of which little remains. Oliver Cromwell, then a - colonel, lay in Boston the night before he fought the battle of Winceby - near Horncastle, Oct. 5. 1643. In North Holland they have a custom of - pulling geese twice a year; which has not escaped Pliny’s notice, X. - 22. There is nothing left of the adjacent Swineshed abbey, founded by - Rob. Greisly, but a yew-tree and a knightly tomb fixed in the wall - of the new house. Here king John sickened in his journey to Sleeford - castle and Newark castle, where he died.</p> - - <p>East of Boston was a chapel called Hiptoft, and in the town a church - dedicated to St. John, but demolished. Here was a staple for wool and - several other commodities, and a vast foreign trade: the hall was - pulled down in my time. The great hall of St. Mary’s Guild is now - the place of meeting for the corporation and sessions, &c. Here was - born the learned John Fox the martyrologist. Queen Elizabeth gave the - corporation a court of admiralty all over the sea-coast hereabouts.</p> - - <p>Abundance of rare sea-plants grow near this coast: many species of - sea-<em>wormwoods</em>, <em>scurvy-grass</em>, <em>crithmum marinum</em>, - <em>atriplex marinum</em>, <i>&c.</i> of which we may expect a good - account from Dr. Blair of Boston; as also of many rare fishes caught - hereabouts, <em>Raja</em>, <em>needle-fish</em>, <em>star-fish</em>, &c. and - of the <em>stickle-back</em> oil is made in very large quantities, the - invention of the <cite>Ichtyophagi</cite>, Pliny XV. 7. <i lang="la">Carum vulgare</i>, - Caraway, grows plentifully in the pastures all about Boston. - <i lang="la">Sambucus foliis variegatis baccis albis</i>, Elder-tree with gilded - leaves and white berries, in Boston Fen-ends: a gilded <em>ivy</em> in - Mr. Pacey’s garden. <i lang="la">Apium palustre Italicum</i>, Selery <i lang="la">vulgo - dictum</i>, in all the ditches of Holland. <i lang="la">Paronychia folio - rutaceo</i>, Rue-leaved whitlow-grass, on the north side of walls and - houses. A <em>barberry-tree</em> without stones, in Alderchurch parish. - <i>Asparagus sylvestris</i>, wild asparagus, in Gorham wood, Whaplode. - Many rare plants in the east fen, such as <i>stratiotes azoides</i>, - fresh water fengreen. In the boggy grounds about Tattersall, - <i>Trifolium palustre</i>, <em>ros solis</em>, <em>virga aurea</em>, - <em>myrtus brabantica</em>, <em>pinguicula</em>, <em>asphodelus</em>, - <em>adianthum aureum</em>. In the park, <em>androsæmum</em>, <em>tutsan</em>: - in the ditches hard by, <em>valeriana sylvestris</em>: in the heaths, - many sorts of <em>erica</em>: <em>solanum lethale</em> about Cowhurn.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Kirton.</div> - - <p>Pass we from Boston by Kirkton, famous for apples, denominated from its - fair church built by Alexander, that magnificent bishop of Lincoln, - after the manner of a cathedral with a transept. It has a handsome - tower standing upon four pillars in the middle of the cross, with a - noble ring of five large bells. I observe, this building is set upon - the ruins of a former <span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">33</span>church, part whereof is visible at the - west end: and in most of the churches in this country the same may be - discovered, from the different manner of the architecture; the most - ancient having small windows arched semicircularly; what is additional, - to be known by the pointed Gothic arches. This church is very neat both - within and without: upon the font is this inscription:</p> - - <div class="center">+ <span class="antiqua" lang="la">Orate pro anima alani burton qui fontem istum fieri fec. a. d. - mccccii.</span></div> - - <p class="noindent">Against the north wall is the monument of a person in armour, and round - it this inscription,</p> - - <div class="center">+ <span class="antiqua" lang="la">Orate pro anima Iohannis de Meres.</span></div> - - <p class="noindent">The family of the Meres has flourished much hereabouts.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>3·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <div class="bold"><i>Boston Cross</i></div> - <img src="images/i_032.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>I Harris Sculp</i></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>4·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <div class="bold"><i>The Remains of Crowland Abby. 14. July. 1724.</i></div> - <img src="images/i_033.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley del</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>I Harris Sculp</i></div> - </figure> - - <p class="clear">Upon the edge of Lincolnshire, in the middle of a vast fenny level, - <span class="sidenote smcap">Crowland.</span>Crowland is situate, memorable for its early religion and the ruins - of an opulent monastery, which still makes a considerable prospect. - The abbey presents a majestic view of ruins; founded a thousand years - ago, by Athelbald king of the Mercians, in a horrid silence of bogs - and thorns;<span class="sidenote">TAB. IV.</span> made eminent for the holy retirement of his chaplain - Guthlac, who changed the gaieties of the court for the severities of - an anchorite. The king endowed it with a profuse hand, and all the - land for several miles round the church belonged to it. The foundation - is laid on piles of wood drove into the ground with gravel and sand, - and they have found several of them in tearing up the ruins of the - eastern part of the church; for what remains now is only part of the - west end; and of that only one corner in tolerable repair, which is - their parish-church at present. It is not difficult at this time to - distinguish part of the very first building of this church, from that - which was built by Ingulphus.<a id="FNanchor_26" href="#Footnote_26" class="fnanchor">[26]</a> In the middle of the cross stood once - a lofty tower and a remarkably fine ring of bells, of which there is a - proverb in this country still remaining: one prodigiously great bell - was sacred to Guthlac: they are said to have been the first peal of - bells in the county, perhaps England.<a id="FNanchor_27" href="#Footnote_27" class="fnanchor">[27]</a> From the foundation of this - tower to the west end, is somewhat left, but only the walls, pillars, - with passages or galleries at top, and stair-cases at the corners. The - roof, which was of Irish oak finely carved and gilt, fell down about - twenty years ago: you see pieces of it in every house. The pavement is - covered with shrubs for brass inscriptions, and people now at pleasure - dig up the monumental stones, and divide the holy shipwreck for their - private uses; so that, instead of one, most of the houses in the town - are become religious. The painted glass was broke by the soldiers in - the rebellion, for they made a garrison of the place. All the eastern - part of the body of the church is intirely razed to the foundation; - and the ashes as well as tombs of an infinite number of illustrious - personages, kings, abbots, lords, knights, &c. there hoping for repose, - are dispersed, to the irreparable damage of English history. The great - Waltheof, earl of Northumberland and Huntingdon, was one of the saints - here: he was beheaded by the Norman conqueror. The monastic buildings, - cloysters, hall, abbot’s lodgings,<a id="FNanchor_28" href="#Footnote_28" class="fnanchor">[28]</a> and the like, which <span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">34</span>no doubt - were very fine, are absolutely demolished; no trace thereof left, - whereby their extent might be guessed at. In the north-west corner - of the church stands a strong tower with a very obtuse spire, and a - pleasant ring of small bells. Over the west gate are the images of - divers kings, abbots, &c. among the rest St. Guthlac with a whip and - knife, as always painted: they were cut in a soft kind of stone, and - drawn over in oil colour with gilding.</p> - - <p>Not far off the abbey eastward, upon a hillock, is the remnant of a - little stone cottage, called Anchor Church-house: here was a chapel - over the place where St. Guthlac lived a hermit, and where he was - buried.<a id="FNanchor_29" href="#Footnote_29" class="fnanchor">[29]</a> Over-against the - <span class="sidenote">TAB. VII.</span>west end of the abbey is the famous - triangular bridge: it is too steep to be commonly rode over; horses and - carriages go under it: it is formed upon three segments of a circle - meeting in one point; they say each base stands in a different county. - The rivers Nyne and Welland here meet. On one side sits an image of - king Athelbald with a globe in his hand. St. Guthlake’s cross, between - Spalding and Crowland, near Brother-house and Cloot-bar, stands upon - the side of the bank, almost buried under earth: it is a boundary of - the church lands: <span class="sidenote">TAB. XI.</span>of great antiquity.<a id="FNanchor_30" href="#Footnote_30" class="fnanchor">[30]</a></p> - - <div class="chapter"> - <hr class="full thick"> - <hr class="full mt0"> - <h2 class="nobreak" id="ITER_OXONIENSE"><span class="gesperrt2">ITER OXONIENSE</span>. II.</h2> - </div> - - <hr class="full"> - <div class="center" lang="la"><b><i>Sed prior hæc hominis cura est cognoscere terram.</i> - <span class="smcap" style="float: right;">Virg.</span></b></div> - <hr class="full"> - - <div class="center bold mt3 lh1"><i>To Mr.</i> <span class="gesperrt">JOHN HARDY</span> <i>of</i> Nottingham.</div> - - <p class="drop-cap">IT is commonly remarked, that impressions of any sort made upon - youthful minds last long; and, like a cut in the bark of tender sprigs, - grow deeper and more apparent with advancing years.</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza" lang="la"> - <div class="i0"><i>Crescent illæ crescetis amores.</i> <span class="smcap fright">Virg.</span></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p>The many hours I have spent with you when I first began to cast my eyes - upon the scenes of the world, and consider things about me, recur to my - mind with pleasure. I should be ungrateful then, (to which my temper - is most abhorrent) and I should deny myself a particular satisfaction, - did I not acknowledge the remembrance of a friendship now mature: - therefore to you I offer the earliest fruits of it, this small account - of the first pleasurable journey I can reckon to myself, where I had - opportunity for satisfying my growing curiosity. It is no wonder that - your learning, your taste of antiquities, and all endearing qualities, - made me fond of cultivating your acquaintance; and perhaps to you in - great measure do I owe what may not be discommendable in amusements of - the following kind, since <span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">35</span>our converse and our journeying sometimes - together, to visit the remains of venerable antiquity, in my first - years, gave me the love and incitement to such pursuits. I am not - concerned to make an excuse for the meanness of this present: were - it not juvenile, it would not be genuine. As when first with you, so - since it has been my method, to put into writing what little remarks I - made in travelling: at length I had collected so much, that with some - drawings of places and things taken at the same time, it was judged not - unworthy of publication: my consent was grounded upon hopes that by - this means I might give some account of every part of my time, and that - my own pleasures might not be altogether unuseful; especially thinking - it was no hard task to equal somewhat of this sort lately done, and - well received of the public. It is to be wished this branch of learning - should revive among us, which has lain dormant since the great Camden; - so that either in discoursing on it, or journeying, we might find some - entertainment worthy of men of letters.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb2" id="i_034"> - <div class="plateno"><i>7</i></div> - <div class="bold"><i>Croyland Bridge Lincolnshire.</i></div> - <img src="images/i_034.jpg" alt=""> - <figcaption class="small"><i>W. Stukeley f. 1721. & Jonathan Sisson Mathematico, Conterraneo suo - ut Amicitice pignus offert.</i></figcaption> - </figure> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Stanford.</div> - - <p>Passing the fenny counterscarps of Holland, we begin our journey at - Stanford, which stands in a mild air and pleasant country abounding - with noblemen’s seats. Many religious houses have been at Stanford, - and once a college founded there, of which they boast much; but of - all these things we expect shortly an exact and full account from the - reverend Mr. Peck. About 1708, a brass seal was dug up, in the castle - at Stanford, of Thomas bishop of Elphin in Ireland; in possession - of Ralf Madyson, esq. Burghley, the earl of Exeter’s, is worth a - traveller’s view: the rooms are finely painted by Seignior Varrio: - abundance of curious pictures from Italy, collected by my lord’s - grandfather. At St. Martin’s church are the monuments of that noble - family.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Foderinghay.</div> - - <p>Through a pleasant and woody country, we went to Foderinghay castle, - situate on a branch of the river Nyne, overlooking the adjacent country - and wide-extended meadows. The castle seems to have been very strong: - there was a high mount, or keep, environed with a deep ditch: the - space around it is guarded by a wall, double ditch, and the river: it - is mostly demolished, and all the materials carried off. They pretend - to show the ruins of the hall where Mary queen of Scots was beheaded. - Some say king James I. ordered this fortress to be destroyed out of - indignation: it was the seat of Edmund of Langley, duke of York, - buried in the collegiate church here, a very neat building, founded by - Edward duke of York, and here likewise interred: their monuments in - the chancel (which was intirely demolished at the suppression) were - restored by queen Elizabeth: the windows of the church are filled with - very handsome painted glass, representing the images of cardinals, - arch-bishops, abbots, &c. such as St. Denis with his head in his hand, - St. Guthlac of Croyland, Richard Scrope arch-bishop of Canterbury, &c. - these were saved in the late civil war, by the then minister of the - parish, with a little money given to the soldiers that came to execute - the harmless saints. We met with these uncouth verses upon the wall, - showing the poetry of those times:</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza" lang="la"> - <div class="i0"><i>In festo Martyrii processus Martiniani,</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Ecclesiæ prima fuit hujus petra locata,</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Anno Christi primum centum ac mille</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Cum deca quinta H. V. tunc imminente 2<sup>da.</sup></i></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">On the north side of the church are the remains of the college, and the - meadow under it retains its name: the steeple has an octagonal tower - at the top, somewhat like that of Boston; at the bases of which are - the images<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">36</span> of bears and ragged staffs, cognisances (I suppose) of the - founders; as the falcon and fetterlock often painted in the glass. They - have a very ancient MS. book here, of the affairs of the parish. There - is a school in the town, erected by Hen. VII. worth about 30l. per - ann. over the door is wrote, <i lang="la">Disce aut discede</i>. A stone bridge - over the river was built by queen Elizabeth anno 1555. shown by an - inscription on the wall, a monument of the spite of the soldiers, who - cut out with their swords, as they passed by, one line of it, <em>God - save the queen</em>.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Oundale.</div> - - <p>Oundale, or Avondale, is remarkable for a drumming well, much talked - of by the superstitious vulgar: no doubt it is owing to the passage of - the water, and air upon certain conditions, through the subterraneous - chinks; for, as Virgil says, in his fine poem called <cite>Ætna</cite>,</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza" lang="la"> - <div class="i0"><i>Secta est omnis humus penitusque cavata latebris, &c.</i></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">and that it is done by intervals or pulses as it were, is but - consentaneous to many of Nature’s operations. Here are two long - bridges of stone. Louick church, on the side of a hill, is very fine, - founded by John de Drayton, anno 1125: the windows are full of coats - of arms. There is a picture of the founder in armour, on his knees, - presenting his church to God: here is his monument, of the Veres too, - and Staffords earls of Wiltshire, and others who intermarried with his - family: there is a modern one of the late Dutchess of Norfolk, who was - married, after her divorcement, to the present owner of the family - seat, called Drayton house, Sir John Germayn, who has for the most part - new-built it.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Boughton.</div> - - <p>From hence we went to Boughton, the seat of the duke of Montagu, - magnificent for building, painting and gardens: the stables are large - and stately, well calculated for the designed grandeur of the house; - for it is not yet finished: the hall is a very noble room: on the - cieling is a convocation of the gods admirably painted, as are many - suites of rooms and apartments, stair-cases, galleries, &c. beside - the great numbers of portraits and other curious pictures, part of - the furniture: the gardens contain fourscore and ten acres of ground, - adorned with statues, flower-pots, urns of marble and metal, many very - large basons, with variety of fountains playing, aviaries, reservoirs, - fish-ponds, canals, admirable greens, wildernesses, terraces, &c. the - cascade is very fine: a whole river, running through the length of the - gardens, is diversified very agreeably to complete its beauty.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Geddington.</div> - - <p>A mile off is Geddington, where in a <em>trivium</em> stands one of - the stone crosses<a id="FNanchor_31" href="#Footnote_31" class="fnanchor">[31]</a> built by king Edward I. in memory of his queen - Eleanor, who died at Hareby near Bolingbroke, in Lincolnshire, 1291. - It is formed upon a triangular model, of pretty Gothic architecture - to suit its station. Her bowels were buried by the high altar in - the Lady’s chapel of Lincoln minster; and in her journey thence to - Westminster, where ever her herse rested, the king erected one of these - magnificent crosses, as a monument of his great love: upon them are - the arms of England, Castile, Leon and Poictou. These are the places, - as far as I am at present informed, Lincoln, Grantham, Stamford,<a id="FNanchor_32" href="#Footnote_32" class="fnanchor">[32]</a> - Geddington, Northampton, Stony Stratford, <span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">37</span>Dunstable, St. Alban’s, - Waltham, Cheapside over against Wood-street, Charing-cross. Near this - place is Boughton, having a petrifying spring, which forms itself a - canal of stone as it runs, consolidating the twigs, moss, and all - adventitious bodies. We saw near the road a spring-head, with a statue - of Moses in the middle of the water, belonging to Boughton house.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp63 mb3" id="i_037"> - <div class="plateno"><i>12</i></div> - <div class="bold"><i>The West View of</i> Waltham Cross <i>11 Jul. 1721.</i></div> - <img src="images/i_037.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="bold small"><i>Petro Le Neve Ar.<br>Norroy. tab. d.d.<br>W<sup>s</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.4em;">.</span> Stukeley</i></div> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>J. Harris Sculp.</i></div> - </figure> - - <p class="clear"><span class="sidenote smcap">Eltabona.</span>Through Kettering we went to Northampton, the most elegant town - in England: which, being wholly burnt down, is rebuilt with great - regularity and beauty. There is a spacious square market-place, a fine - assize-house of Corinthian architecture. Allhallow’s church is built - after a pretty model, with a cupola and a noble portico before it of - eight lofty Ionic columns: upon the balustrade a statue of king Charles - II. There is an inscription of John Bailes, aged above 126: his sight, - hearing and memory, intire; buried 1706. One of the old churches, St. - Sepulchre’s, seems to have belonged to the Knights Hospitalers of St. - John of Jerusalem, of a circular form: there has been another tacked to - it of later date, with a choir and steeple, as to that at Cambridge of - the same name and figure: another such I am told is at Guildford, which - are all of this sort that I know of in England. I suspect these are - the most ancient churches in England, and probably built in the later - times of the Romans for Christian service, at least in the early Saxon - reigns. Westward are the ruins of the castle, by the river side, built - by Simon Silvanect I. earl of Northampton, who founded here likewise - St. Andrew’s abbey: his son Simon Silvanect II. earl of Northampton - and Huntingdon, founded St. Mary de Près abbey here about 1150. This - probably is a Roman town arising from one of the forts built upon this - river, as that great people proceeded northward in the conquest of the - island; and being mentioned by Ravennas between Leicester and Stoney - Stratford, it is very likely the Eltabona there, meaning <em>ael</em>, - <em>supercilium</em>, and Avon, the river. Roman coins have been found - on the other side the river: there are likewise the footsteps of the - fortifications round the town, thrown up with bastions in the time of - the civil wars. Under those on the south side, descending into a stone - quarry which has abundance of intricate turnings, I saw a piece of oak - wood, as big as both one’s hands, lie between the <em>strata</em> of - solid stone: though petrified, the ligneous fibres when split would - burn in a candle. I suppose it to have been lodged there in the deluge. - A little way from the town, about Sprotton, are the pits where they dig - up tobacco-pipe clay. Near Billing, about three miles from Northampton, - not far from the earl of Twomond’s seat, was lately found a mine of - copper, and coal, and marble, as they told me.</p> - - <p>From Northampton, over the river, by a large stone bridge where is an - old religious house, half a mile off in the London road, is another of - queen Eleanor’s stone crosses, called Queen’s cross, with her images - and arms. It stands on a hill in the open country upon eight steps, in - form much like that of Waltham, of which I have given a print.<span class="sidenote">TAB. XII.</span> On the - other side of the town, about three miles distance, is Holdenby house, - <span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">38</span>which lies in noble ruins: here king Charles I. was kept prisoner. - A little way off is Naseby,<a id="FNanchor_33" href="#Footnote_33" class="fnanchor">[33]</a> where the bloody and fatal battle - happened between his forces and those of the parliament, upon a fine - plain where at present stands a windmill: the marks of several great - holes appear, where the slain were buried. This town, as near as may - be, is the navel of England. Near is<span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Guildsborough.</span> Roman <i>Camp</i>.</span> - Guildsborough, so named from a - Roman camp of a square form, and deep ditch, called the Burrows. I - was told of several more thereabouts, which I suppose those made in - the time of Ostorius about the heads of the rivers here; which all - together made a sort of fortification between the north and south parts - of the kingdom, especially between the Avon and Severn. A long barrow - at Pesford, called Longman’s hill. We saw Althorp, a curious seat of - the earl of Sunderland’s, elegantly furnished: there is a fine gallery - adorned with good pictures, and a noble library.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Eston.</div> - - <p>My lord Lemster’s seat, now earl of Pomfret, near Towcester, is - a stately building, and stands pleasantly, encompassed with good - plantations of wood, visto’s and agreeable prospects. In the grand view - to the back front, beyond the garden, is a large and long canal: in the - house are several curious pictures; an original, of Sir Paul Ricot; of - a pillar of Persepolis, one of those sixty foot high; Perseus loosing - Andromeda, by Gioseppi Cari; a copy of Galatea, from Raphael: but what - highly inhances the glory of this seat, is the vast number of Roman - and Greek marbles, statues, busto’s, bas reliefs, &c. part of the most - noble collection of the great earl of Arundel. My lord has it in his - thoughts to build a large room, or gallery, to receive this invaluable - treasure; at present they are for the most part exposed to the weather - in the garden. I shall cursorily name them all with the haste of a - traveller, though each single piece merits a serious view, and a long - description.</p> - - <p>At the end of the side terrace in the garden, and near the house, - stands an intire column of marble in two pieces, fluted, taken from - among the ruins of the temple of Apollo at the isle of Delos, where - many now lie: this is set upon a proper base and pedestal made - purposely for it: the capital is unusual, but very beautiful, and - seems perfectly to answer that description which Vitruvius gives - us, IV. 1. of the origin of the Corinthian capital from the conceit - of Callimachus, who was pleased with the appearance of a basket - covered with a tile, and luckily set upon the middle of a root of - <em>acanthus</em>, or <em>brank ursin</em>, which shot up its curled leaves - around it in a delicate and tender manner: upon it stands a statue, - the upper part naked. In the niches of that wall along the walk are - several broken statues of goddesses, naked or in fine drapery, where - the mind is divided between the pleasure of seeing what remains and - the grief for what is lost. Upon the stairs that descend into the - garden are a great many whole and broken statues, pieces of <em>basso - relievo</em>, altars, urns, tombs, &c. such as the destruction of Troy, - represented in the Trojan horse, the merriment of the Trojans, the - slaughter of Priamus, Achilles driving his chariot with Hector tied - to it: there is another bas-relief of a battle; a figure recumbent at - dinner; two figures in procession, but covered over with moss; four - figures, two with Phrygian bonnets; good pieces of cornice-work, with - mouldings of ovolo’s, bead-moulds, &c. a tomb, the husband and wife - with the son between; a piece of Bacchanalians; the end of a tomb, or - vase; a mask and revelling figures; an horseman and footman engaging. - <span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">39</span>Most of these antiquities seem of the highest Greek times. Before the - steps upon pedestals are two Egyptian <em>sphynges</em> mitred, and two - Muses sitting: other things thereabouts are a sea-horse in basso; a man - carrying another; a capital of a pillar made of a horse’s head, with - branches coming out of his mouth like them at Persepolis, a dog’s head - on one angle, and lions on the other: upon it are busts and heads: over - that is a portal of a monumental stone, with a woman and two children, - the tomb of some player, with fine bassos of masks, the busto of the - deceased; four Genii; two lions devouring horses, finely cut: over it - a priestess by the side of a temple: eight round altars or pedestals - adorned with bulls heads, festoons, &c. which stand upon the piers of - the stairs: upon and about them are other antiquities, such as the - bottom part of Scylla; three monsters like dogs devouring three men; a - receiver for an urn. Cupid asleep lies upon this.</p> - - <p>On the north side the front of the house, a tomb; another capital of - a horse’s head, &c. over it a basso of Venus riding on a sea-horse, a - Cupid driving; a lion over it; two Cupids, <em>alto relievo</em>: some - busts over the windows; a young Nero, Faunus, &c.</p> - - <p>At the south end of the house, on the ground, an old headless statue; - upon the basement, a tomb of a boy wrought in channel-work, his busto - in basso upon it: over the windows a small statue; a woman with a child - in her arms; a tomb; another capital from the temple of Apollo at - Delos; a Greek mask.</p> - - <p>Next let us descend into the garden along the middle walk. In the - parterres about the fountain stand four Greek statues very intire, - bigger than the life, of most admirable art: they are dressed in - matron-like robes, or outer garments, in most comely folds, yet cut - so exquisitely, that the folds of the inner drapery appear, and the - whole shape of the body, as if transparent: they cannot be sufficiently - commended. Between them and the house on the south side, is that - celebrated statue of Cicero intire, with his <em>sudarium</em> in his - right, and a scroll in his left hand: the sight of the eyes is cut - hollow. I could not possibly excuse my self half a quarter of an hour’s - serious view of this master-piece, frequently going round it: where so - much seeming simplicity of the carver, has called forth all the fire - of that divine genius that could make statues hear, as this artist has - made them speak, and left an eternal monument of contention between - him and the great orator: it grieved me to think it should stand a - day longer in the open air. Answering to this on the left, is another - statue of more robust shape and workmanship: his left hand holds a - scroll, his right is laid in a passionate manner upon his breast: if - sinewy muscles denote one that worked on the anvil, it may possibly - be Demosthenes. The two next that correspond beyond the fountain, are - Scipio Africanus and Asiaticus, in an heroic dress. Beyond, on each - side the steps going down to the lower garden, are two <em>colossi</em>, - Fabius Maximus the cunctator, and Archimides with a square in his - hand. At each end of this cross-walk, or terrace, which terminates the - middle or principal one, is built a handsome stone-work with niches - and pediment supported with pilasters, contrived on purpose to receive - other pieces: in that on the left hand, or north side, is the tomb - of the famous Germanicus, adorned with carving of bas-relief: upon - it two admirable busts of him and Agrippina his wife. Between these - upon the tomb stands an altar-like pedestal with a small and ancient - statue of Jupiter sitting. In the pediment over the arch is a curious - piece of marble, whereon is raised the upper part of a man with his - arms and hands extended, and the impression likewise of a foot: this - I suppose the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">40</span> original standard of the Greek measure. Upon the - <em>apex</em> of the pediment is a fine statue of Apollo with the right - arm naked, the other covered with a mantle: below the hips it ends in - a <em>terminus</em>; so that it is an <em>Hermapollon</em>. In two niches - here, are two large and curious trunks, as fine as the loquacious - Pasquin or Marforio at Rome. Upon the two outermost pilasters are - two other beautiful trunks. At the corner of this terrace is an - altar. At the other end of this cross walk, under the stone-work is a - marble chair with an inscription on the back of it, denoting that it - belonged to the high-priest of Isis, as said; for it is obliterated: - it is remarkably easy to sit on: the sides are embossed with winged - <em>sphynges</em>. On each side of it are two sitting fragments. Upon - the top of this stone-work is a very large and curious Greek statue of - Pallas, coloss proportion, naked arms, a plumed helmet on her head, the - Gorgonian <em>Ægis</em> on her breast: the very marble is not without its - terror.</p> - - <p>We shall now pass through the house. The hall is a fine lofty room: - in the niches are several statues; a Greek lady with her arms folded - under the drapery, which with that of the under garment are perfectly - seen through the robe; Caius Marius in a senatorial habit; Cupid - asleep, leaning on his torch: M. Antony, a naked figure; all these as - big as the life: over the chimney-piece, a little Hercules tearing - the lion; seven bustos, an excellent one of Pindar; one said to be - of Olympias, I fancied it Lucretia. By the great stairs, painted in - <em>fresco</em> by Sir James Thornhill, two bustos, one of the Grecian - Venus. In niches upon the stairs, six statues as big as the life: Diana - in a hunting-habit, a tuck’d-up coat, buskins of skins; a lady in - Greek drapery; the Venus de Medicis; Paris with a mantle, the Phrygian - bonnet, and odd stockings of the Dacian mode; (this is a statue of - great antiquity;) a nymph with a long flowing garment tied under the - breast, a fine turn of the body; a man, the right shoulder naked. In - the little dining-room, over the chimney, an antique marble vase. In - the green-house I saw these following: a Flora, the upper part lost; - most inimitable drapery to show the naked, like the celebrated one at - Rome: a coloss head of Apollo, from the collar bone to the crown of the - head three foot; the body is said to lie among many more under Arundel - house in London: the trunk of Camilla, both arms: a young Bacchus.</p> - - <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Towcester</span> Roman.</div> - - <p>Towcester is a pretty town, of Roman antiquity: through it in a strait - line runs the Watling-street. Edward the elder built the mount called - Berry hill when he fortified the town against the Danes. Roman coins - have been oft found at this place.<a id="FNanchor_34" href="#Footnote_34" class="fnanchor">[34]</a> The inhabitants here, both old - and young, are very busy in a silken manufacture, and making of lace. - This town has been ditched about on the west side; every where else - guarded by the rivers.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Buckingham.</div> - - <p>From hence we went through spacious woods to Buckingham. There was a - castle before the Conquest, but now scarce to be known. The church is - well built, particularly the chancel: they showed us a place called St. - Rumbald’s shrine, where his coffin was taken up. St. John Baptist’s - chapel, built, as said, by archbishop Becket, is now a free school. - From this place we travelled upon a Roman road.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Alauna.</div> - - <p>Entering Oxfordshire, we saw on our right the park called Caversfield, - which antiquaries say was the place where Allectus slew Carausius. - <span class="sidenote">TAB. V. VI. 2d Vol.</span>This is near Bicester, which I visited big with expectation of finding - somewhat considerable from a conflux of towns’ names that promised - much. I <span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">41</span>observed Lawnton hard by, which seemed to confirm Mr. - Baxter’s conjecture of Alauna hereabouts. Chesterton, Aldchester, and - Wandlebury, were specious marks for enquiry; but I find they all depend - upon Aldchester, where was the undoubted Alauna of Ravennas, mentioned - thus in that valuable author. Next to London, Tamese, Branavis, Alauna; - of all which I shall give an account in this journey.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>5·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <div class="bold"><i>Prospect of Aldchester near Bicester.</i> Alauna.</div> - <img src="images/i_040.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>6·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <div class="bold"><span class="smcap">Alavna.</span></div> - <img src="images/i_040_2.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div> - </figure> - - <p class="clear"><span class="sidenote smcap">Akeman-street.</span>South of Bicester about a mile, two Roman roads cross one another - at right angles, in the middle of a large and beautiful meadow; the - Akeman-street running east and west, and another directly north and - south: the first comes out of Buckinghamshire, I imagine from Fenny - Stratford through Winslow; passes by here at Longford, over Bicester - river, under the north side of Gravenhall hill; so proceeds by - Aldchester, Kirklington, to Woodstock park, and so to Cirencester: the - other crosses it at Aldchester, running directly through the middle of - the city; then through the southern meadow belonging to Wandlebury, - where it is visible enough to a nice eye, the grass being poor, and - much abates of the verdure for its whole breadth: then entering a - pasture, it is very plain, being elevated into a ridge of a hundred - foot breadth, and two little ditches all along the sides: it leaves - Marton on the east and Fencot, making fords over the brooks, paved - with great broad stones its whole breadth; then proceeds the length - of Ottmore, a spacious level, marsh or meadow, two or three miles - together, where its ridge is plain, though broken by many sloughs; then - through Beckly by the park wall; then under Shotover hill, and so, I - suppose, passes the Thames at Sandford below Oxford. Northward from - Alauna it proceeds through the northern meadow belonging to Chesterton - and Bicester, where the stones it is composed of may be seen in the - little ditches they have dug upon each side; then it enters the lane, - and goes on the west side of Bicester town, at some little distance, - and strait forwards on the east of Caverfield park by Stretton Audley, - where many Roman coins have been found; and so to Radley by Buckingham, - being now the great high road between the two towns, of which we may - say, in the poet’s words,</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza" lang="la"> - <div class="i0"><i>Scilicet hæc ævi stravit longinqua vetustas,</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Heu nimis ex vero nunc ea strata jacent!</i></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p>The city called now Aldchester is a parcel of ploughed field, on the - south side of the Akeman way, a mile at least south of Bicester: - it stands in the middle of the meadow, which is very level, more - especially stretching itself north and south of the city. I know not - whether the ground which is the site of the city be naturally higher, - or raised by the ruins and rubbish thereof: but, if any, this deserves - to be called <em>urbs pratensis</em>. I can scarce believe that this - meadow was so subject to inundations as now, at the time of setting - the city here; and I never observed the like position elsewhere, - when there is higher ground near enough: it may be thought rather a - city of pleasure than strength. A very little way off to the east - is Gravenhall hill, a copped hill curiously covered with wood and - hedge-rows: beyond it is Berry hill, or vulgarly the Brill, guarded - at top with one of their camps. A little brook comes from Chesterton, - a mile off, and runs on the south side of the city; for between that - and the Akeman way is it placed. When I came upon the spot, I soon - found it by the prodigious blackness and richness of the earth, as - they were ploughing; and this shows it to have been once in a very - flourishing condition and populous; for the fund of nitrous particles - and animal salts lodged in this earth are inexhaustible. The site of - this city is a common, belonging to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">42</span> the inhabitants of Wandlebury, - and every one has a certain little portion of it to plough up; whence - we may well imagine the land is racked to the last extremity, and - no great care taken in the management of it: yet it bears very good - crops of wheat. As I traversed the spot, at every step I saw pieces - of pots and vessels, of all sorts of coloured earth,<a id="FNanchor_35" href="#Footnote_35" class="fnanchor">[35]</a> red, green, - and some perfectly of blue clay, that came from Aynhoe: I picked up - several parcels, thinking to have carried them away, till I perceived - them strown very thick over the whole field, together with bits of - bricks of all sorts: the husbandmen told me they frequently break their - ploughs against foundations of hewn stone and brick; and we saw upon - the spot many paving stones with a smooth face, and laid in a very good - bed of gravel, till they draw them all up by degrees, when the plough - chances to go a little deeper than ordinary. Infinite numbers of coins - have been found, and dispersed over the adjacent villages without any - regard; and after a shower of rain now, they say, sometimes they find - them: I got two or three of Tetricus jun. &c. A good while ago, they - dug up a glass urn full of ashes, laid in a cavity cut out of a stone: - I went to see the stone, used as a pig-trough, at Wandlebury, in which - office it has served ever since Dr. Plot’s time; for I find he mentions - it, page 329: it is squarish, the cavity is roundish, nine inches deep, - and a foot diameter; but the urn was broke and lost. I heard likewise, - by enquiry, that they have found brass images, <em>lares</em>, and all - sorts of antiquities, which I encouraged them to preserve for the - future. This city was fenced with a bank and ditch quite round: it is a - square of one thousand foot each side, standing upon the four cardinal - points: the <em>vallum</em> and ditch are sufficiently visible, though - both have met with equal change; the <em>vallum</em>, from the plough, - which levels it to a certain quantity every year; and the inundation of - the meadow raises the ditch: these are most easily discernible at the - corners, for there they are still pretty perfect, and so notoriously, - that the country people tell you in those places were four towers to - defend the city. This little brook, that runs on the southern ditch, - encompassed the city quite round originally: the track of the way that - passes the city in the middle from south to north, is still very high - raised, and another street crossed it the contrary way in the middle, - and so went eastward, meeting the Akeman in its way to Langford: these - were the two principal streets, and doubtless there were others; and - great foundations are known to be all around in the meadows, especially - northward and eastward upon both sides the Akeman. On the west side - of the city, a little distance from the ditch, is an artificial hill - in the very middle of the meadow which they call the Castle hill, - and is full of Roman bricks, stone, and foundations. I attentively - considered this place: the circuit of it is very plain and definable; - it was a square of two hundred foot: I guess it originally to have been - some considerable building in the middle of an <em>area</em>, or court; - whether a <em>pretorium</em>, or a temple, might probably be ascertained - upon digging: the edge of the <em>area</em> is very distinct upon the - meadow, by the difference in the colour of the grass, the one gray, - the other green; but the main body of the building reached not so - far, but lies in a great heap of rubbish, much elevated, and of much - less extent: before it, to the south, has been another <em>area</em>, - paved with a bed of gravel, at least above a hundred foot broad: I - doubt not but a curious person, that will be at the expence of digging - this plot, would find <span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">43</span>it well worth his while. This is the sum of - what I observed at the place: whether the present name be Alcester, - as retaining any thing of the Latin, or Aldcester, signifying the old - city, I dispute not; but think it has no manner of relation to Allectus - that slew the brave Carausius. The name of Akeman way I am fit to think - a vulgar error, as commonly imagined from going to the Bath:<a id="FNanchor_36" href="#Footnote_36" class="fnanchor">[36]</a> more - probably it is <em>ag maen</em>, the stony <em>agger</em>, or ridge; this - is confirmed by the people calling the other road too, that goes north - and south, by the same name, Akeman-street. There has been a religious - house at Bicester near the church, a priory of St. Eadburg, founded by - Gilbert Basset. This town is famous for excellent malt liquor, of a - delicate taste and colour.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>7·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <img src="images/i_043.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div> - <figcaption><i>Prospect of Tame.</i> <span class="smcap">Tamese.</span> <i>14 Sept. 1724.</i></figcaption> - </figure> - - <p>From hence we journeyed by Aynhoe, where is a vein of stiff clay, - exceeding blue: at Souldern is a curious barrow, neatly turned like a - bell, small and high; I believe it Celtic. Then climbing for a long - while together, we ascended <span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Bury-hill</span> Ro. <em>camp</em>.</span>Bury hill, a village upon the highest - copped mountain in the country: it is vulgarly called the Brill, as Mr. - Camden takes notice: this has a vast prospect over Bernwood, Ottmore, - and the whole country, bounded only by the superior Chiltern, seven - miles off, which hence has a most notable aspect, and ends insensibly - at the eastern and western horizon, diminishing regularly all the way: - at the top of the Brill, by the church, I saw parcels of the old Roman - camp, which has been modernised with additional bastions in the civil - wars. Before the Conquest, here was a palace of Edward the Confessor. - Much Roman coin has been found hereabout.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Tamese.</div> - - <div class="sidenote">TAB. VII. 2d Vol.</div> - - <p>Below here, two or three miles off, stands Tamese, now Tame, upon the - side of a meadow; a pleasant town, consisting of one long and broad - street, running north-east and south-west: behind lie the smiling - arable fields: it is almost encompassed with rivulets. This was called - a <em>burg</em> in the time of Edward the elder, anno 921, who besieged - the Danes here, and took the burg, or castle. I saw infinite quantities - of the <em>cornu ammonis</em>, a foot and half or two foot diameter, - laid in the roads among rubble stone to mend them: all the quarries - hereabouts abound with them of all dimensions. Here is a fine large - church in form of a cross: in it many brasses and old monuments: some I - transcribed.</p> - - <p><cite>Thome de Grey filii Roberti dni. de Grey Retherfeld militis obiit - anno dni. millesimo</cite> ccc. Another thus.</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0">O certyn deth that now hast overthrowe</div> - <div class="i0">Richard Quatremayns squier and Sibil his wyf that ly her now full lowe</div> - <div class="i0">That with rial prinses of councel was true and wise famed</div> - <div class="i0">To Richard duke of Yorke and after with his sone king Edward IIII named</div> - <div class="i0">That founded in the chyrche of Tame a chantrye six pore men and a fraternity</div> - <div class="i0">In the worship of St. Christofere to be relieved in perpetuitye</div> - <div class="i0">They that of their almys for their sowles a <i lang="la">pater noster</i> and <i>ave</i> devoutly wul seye</div> - <div class="i0">Of holy fadurs is granted them pardun of days xl alway.</div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p>Which Richard and Sibil out of this world passed in the yer of our lord - M. cccclx. upon their sowles jhu have mercy amen. Another thus.</p> - - <p><i lang="la">Orate pro animabus Galfredi Dormer mercatoris Stapile ville Calis - & Margere & Alicie uxoris ejus qui quidem Galfridus ob. 9 Mar. 1502. - quorum <span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">44</span>animabus propicietur deus amen.</i> There are the images - of twenty-five children upon this stone.</p> - - <p>John lord Williams of Tame baronet, baron of Tame, ob. 14 Oct. 1559.</p> - - <p>Here lyeth Sir John Clerk of Northweston knight which tuke Lovys of - Orleance duke of Longuevill and marquis of Rotelin prysoner at the - journy of Bomy by Tyrvain the xvi day of August in the v yer of the - reign of the noble and victorious king Henry viii. which John decesed - the v day of April 1539.</p> - - <p>There is an abbot (I suppose) in stone in the church wall of the south - transept within side: near the church are the ruins of a priory built - by Alexander bishop of Lincoln. At Notely, not far off, is another. A - pot of Roman money was found at Sherburn in this neighbourhood last - year.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Islip.</div> - - <p>Islip is memorable for the birth of Edward the Confessor. The font - which stood in the king’s chapel, as still called, where he was - baptised, is removed: but that font in Dr. Plot seems not of such - antiquity. There are some remains of an ancient palace.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Oxford.</div> - - <p>Oxford requires a more elaborate description than a stranger can - possibly give; and indeed so numerous are the colleges and halls, that - one can scarce get a tolerable idea of them in the three days I staid - here. The prospect of this place from Shotover hill is very inviting, - nor is our expectation frustrated when in the place. The bridge over - the Cherwel is a stately work, twice as broad as London bridge. - Magdalen college, the legacy of our countryman, William of Wainflet, - which he endowed with a princely hand, deservedly is thought one of the - noblest foundations in Europe: the old oak is still left, nigh which - he ordered it to be built. A vast tract of ground is inclosed with a - castellated wall for gardens. On the other side the river is a park - too, with long shady walks, but too near the water, wherein likewise - more resembling those of Academus by Athens. The chapel is large and - magnificent: the tower is a lofty strong work, in it a fine ring of - bells: the whimsical figures in the quadrangle, over the buttresses, - amuse the vulgar; they are the licentious inventions of the mason. - Over-against this is the physic garden, whose curiosities Mr. Bobart - showed us, and his own: since his death, its purpose is not so well - executed. Here are remarkably fine greens in all the gardens at Oxford, - especially in yew: the two piers here, with flower-pots on them, are - thought to exceed; but the two yew men (as one waggishly called them) - that guard the door, are ridiculous; the architecture of these gates - is, I suppose, of Inigo Jones: two <em>sphynges</em> at the entrance - are properly placed: these are without the city walls. University - college has a new quadrangle built by legacy of Dr. Radcliffe; but I - think uniformity, in this and other structures in the university, no - sufficient reason for using the old manner of building. Queen’s college - over-against it is of a good taste, improved to its present splendor - under the auspices, and in great degree at the charge, of the late Dr. - Lancaster. The library, the hall, and chapel, are beautiful. The old - gatehouse has a pretty cieling over it of stone; they say it was the - chamber of Harry the Vth’s uncle and tutor. Behind it is New college; a - large chapel, a good visto to the garden, in which is a pleasant mount: - this was the foundation of William of Wickham, bishop of Winchester: - it stands in an angle of the old city walls. At All Souls a new court - is building, but in the anachronism of the Gothic degenerate taste: - the new library is a spacious room, the legacy of colonel Coddrington: - the chapel is very elegant; the altar, entirely of marble, was made at - the charge of George Clark, esq. one of the fellows. Christ church, - the magnificent work of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">45</span> cardinal Wolsey: the stone cieling over the - entrance to the hall is very pretty; the new quadrangle, designed by - the learned Dr. Aldrich, is beautiful. St. John’s college has two - handsome quadrangles, the portico’s built by archbishop Laud: two - fine statues, in brass, of king Charles I. and his queen, probably - designed by Inigo Jones. But it is impossible for me to run through - the whole of this splendid university, which I leave as a fitter task - for some of her own learned sons. The school is a large building: the - Bodleian library, an immense store-house of most valuable books and - manuscripts, the donation of archbishop Laud, the earl of Pembroke, O. - Cromwell, Selden, Digby, Bodley, and other great names: over it is a - spacious gallery, adorned with pictures of founders, benefactors, and - others, and with the antique marbles which were the learned part of - the inexhaustible collection of the earl of Arundel: these have been - illustrated with the accurate comments of Selden and Prideaux. Here - are some of the most valuable Greek monuments now in the world. Over - the porch, upon a handsome pedestal of black marble, stands the brass - effigies of the earl of Pembroke, their noble and generous chancellor, - given by the present earl: this was moulded by Rubens. Here is likewise - a very large collection of Greek, Roman, British, Saxon, English, and - other coins, presented by several hands. The divinity schools, finished - by Humphry the good duke of Gloucester, have a very curious stone - roof. The Ashmolean repository, beside some good books, papers and - MSS. of the founder, has a large collection of rarities in antiquity, - nature and art, &c. such as original pictures of famous men, marbles - of old Egyptian carving in figures and hieroglyphics, a fine marble - inscription in Arabic, which was over the door of a school at Tangier; - an Egyptian mummy, being a man dressed like <em>orus Apollo</em>; the - cradle of Henry VI. the hat of Bradshaw plaited with steel within, - under which he sat in judgment upon king Charles I. a vast fund of - precious and other stones, &c. which it is impossible to enumerate. - Here is, beside, a choice apparatus of instruments for chymistry and - experimental philosophy under the direction of Mr. Whiteside. The - printing-house is a good building with a bold portico, but next the - schools disgraced with a wretched statue of my lord Clarendon. Between - these two last and the schools stands the Sheldonian theatre, the - first piece of architecture of Sir Christopher Wren, a spacious and - well-proportioned room: it is worth while to go upon the top of it, - to see the carpentry of the roof, and the fine prospect of the city - and country thence. Before Baliol college they showed us the stone in - the street which marks the place of the barbarous martyrdom of the - venerable archbishop Cranmer and bishop Ridley, then upon the banks of - the ditch without the walls of the city, which went along where the - theatre now stands. Beyond the river, amongst meadows encompassed with - rivulets, stood Oseney abbey, founded by Robert D’oyley 1129.<a id="FNanchor_37" href="#Footnote_37" class="fnanchor">[37]</a> upon - the bridge is a tower called Friar Bacon’s Study, from that famous and - learned monk, who in dark ages had penetrated so far into the secrets - of nature. Oxford, no doubt, means no more than the passage over the - river Ox, Ouse, or Isis, which are equivalents. Over another bridge of - the Isis we went to see Ruleigh abbey, where some ruins and parcels - still remain, turned to a common brew-house: a disjointed stone in - a partition wall preserves this monumental inscription, <span class="antiqua">Elae de - Warwik comitissae viscera sunt hic</span>. This Ela was daughter of Wil. - Longspee earl of Salisbury, and wife of Thomas de Newburgh the last - earl <span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">46</span>of Warwick of that name: she died on Sunday the fifth of the ides - of February, 26 Ed. I. 1297. she gave lands to this abbey, and founded - a chapel here, as appears by an inscription dug up 1705. her body was - buried before the high altar at Oseney, her heart in this place. Of the - castle there is a square high tower remaining by the river side, and a - lofty mount or keep walled at top, with a stair-case going downward: - this seems to have been a very strong place, built by Robert de Oili in - the time of William the Conqueror. If there was a town here in Roman - times, it seems to have been in this quarter. The White-friars was a - royal palace; and near a green called Beaumonds, they showed us the - bottom of a tower upon the ground where the valiant Richard I. <em>Cœur - de lion</em>, was born. Without the town on all sides may be seen the - remains of the fortifications raised in the time of the civil wars. - It is in vain to pretend in this paper to enumerate the particular - remarkables of every college, which are eighteen in number, and seven - halls: these for beauty, grandeur, and endowment, no doubt, exceed any - thing: their chapels, halls, libraries, quadrangles, piazzas; their - gardens, walks, groves, and every thing, contribute to make the first - university in the world. As to the city, though the colleges make up - two thirds of it, and are continually eating it away, in buying whole - streets for enlargement; yet it is large, regular, and crouds itself - out proportionably: the streets are spacious, handsome, clean, and - strait; the whole place pleasant and healthful; the inhabitants genteel - and courteous: the churches are many and elegant enough, especially - Allhallows, a neat fabric of modern architecture, with a very handsome - spire. St. Peter’s in the east is venerable for its antiquity: the east - end by its fabric appears prior to the time of the Conquest.</p> - - <p>Leaving this famous repository of learning, we saw on our left hand, on - the other side of the river, the last ruins of Godstow nunnery, placed - among the sweet meadows: here fair Rosamond, the beloved mistress of - Henry II. had a tomb remarkably fine; but before the dissolution, - scarce could her ashes rest, whose beauty was thought guilty even after - death.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Woodstock.</div> - - <p>At Woodstock we saw part of the old palace, and her famous labyrinth, - which is since destroyed: her bathing-place, or well (as called) is - left, a quadrangular receptacle of most pure water, immediately flowing - from a little spring under the hill, and over-shadowed with trees: - near it some few ruins of walls and arches. King Ethelred called a - parliament here; it has been a royal seat from most ancient times: - Henry I. inclosed the park. A-cross this valley was a remarkably fine - echo, that would repeat a whole hexameter, but impaired by the removal - of these buildings. A stately bridge from hence now leads along the - grand approach to the present castle: one arch is above a hundred foot - diameter: a cascade of water falls from a great lake down some stone - steps into the canal that runs under it.</p> - - <p>The new palace is a vast and magnificent pile of building; a royal gift - to the high merit of the invincible duke of Marlborough; the lofty - hall is painted by Sir James Thornhill; the salon by la Guerre: the - rooms are finely enriched with marble chimney-pieces and furniture, but - more by the incomparable paintings: many of Rubens’s best and largest - pieces; that celebrated one of himself, his wife, and child, among - others; Vandyke’s king Charles I. upon a dun horse, of great value; - and the famous loves of the Gods, by Titian, a present from the king - of Sardinia. The gallery I admired beyond any thing I have seen, lined - with marble pilasters and whole pillars of one piece, supporting a most - costly and beautiful entablature, excellent for matter and workmanship: - the window frames of the same,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">47</span> and a basement of black marble quite - round. Before it is stretched out a most agreeable prospect of the fine - woods beyond the great valley: it is indeed of an admirable model: - this, and what is of the most elegant taste in the whole house, is of - the duchess’s own designing. The chapel is not yet finished, and which - I doubt not will be equal to the rest. The garden is a large plot of - ground taken out of the park, and may still be said to be part of it; - well contrived by sinking the outer wall into a foss, to give one a - view quite round, and take off the odious appearance of confinement - and limitation to the eye, and which quite spoils the pleasure and - intention of a garden: within, it is well adorned with walks, greens, - espaliers, and visto’s to diremarkable objects that offer - themselves in the circumjacent country. Over the pediment of this - front of the house is a curious busto in marble of the French king, - bigger than life, taken from the gate of the citadel of Tournay. The - orangery is a pretty room. At the entrance hither from the town, her - grace has erected a noble triumphal arch to the memory of the duke, and - has projected a vast obelisk to be set in the principal avenue in the - park, whereon is to be inscribed an account of his great actions and - ability in council, and in war. Near the gate is the house where our - famous Chaucer was born: methinks there was somewhat poetical in the - ground that first gave him birth, and produced these verses, which I - ask pardon for inserting, upon a subject which his genius only could be - equal to:</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0"><i>Fame, like the optic artist, wont to swell</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>The object larger to the armed eye,</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Sing on, and mighty Marlborough’s actions tell:</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Secure from flattery in words abound,</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>And let thy trumpet diapasons sound;</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Speak but enough of him, ’tis all reality.</i></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p>Through the park we crossed again the Akeman-street, which runs all - along with a perfect ridge made of stone, dug every where near the - surface: it bears between north-east and east: it is a foot-path still - through the park with a stile, and a road beyond it by which it passes - to <span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Stunsfield</span>, Ro. <i>town</i>.</span>Stunsfield, - where are marks of an intrenched work, once a Roman - station: and in the place they found (the 25th Jan. 1712.) a most - curious tesselated pavement, for bulk and beauty the most considerable - one we know of: it was a parallelogram of thirty-five foot long and - twenty foot wide, a noble room, and no doubt designed for feasting and - jollity: in one of the circular works was Bacchus represented in stones - properly coloured, with a tiger, a <em>thyrsus</em> in his hand enwrapped - with vine leaves. This admirable curiosity deserved a better owner; - for the landlord and tenant quarreling about sharing the profits of - showing it, the latter maliciously tore it in pieces. When the earth - was first laid open upon its discovery, they found it covered a foot - thick with burnt wheat, barley and pease: so that we may guess upon - some enemy’s approach it was covered with those matters to prevent its - being injured, or was turned into a barn and burnt.</p> - - <p>We crossed a foss called Grimesditch, the <em>vallum</em> eastward: it - goes by Ditchley wood and house, which takes its name from it. Dr. - Plot does not sufficiently distinguish this from a Roman road: it was - doubtless some division of the ancient Britons: the country is all a - rock of rag-stone. Many good seats of the nobility hereabouts; Cornbury - lord Clarendon’s, Ditchley lord Litchfield’s, duke of Shrewsbury’s at - Hathorp, new built of stone very beautiful. Juniper grows plentifully - hereabouts. At<span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">48</span> Chadlington is a square Roman camp. At Enston is a - pretty curiosity in water-works, cascades falling down artificial rocks - overgrown with waterplants, chirping of birds imitated, many pipes of - water, secretly to dash the spectators, and fancies of that kind.</p> - - <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Chipping-norton.</span></div> - - <p>Chipping-Norton must have been a great trading town by the number of - merchants, as they are there called, buried in the church under brasses - and inscriptions: others of alabaster: and the name of the place - signifies it, as our Cheapside, equivalent to market, to buying or - cheapening. There are marks of a castle by the church, which probably - was demolished in the time of king Stephen. Lord Arundel, beheaded in - the barons wars, lived in it: a place called the Vineyards near it. - Roman coins are frequently found here. The church is a good building of - a curious model, the south porch hexagonal, and a little roof over it - supported by a stone arch: under the choir is a charnel-house full of - the ruined rafters of mortality. A priory was here near Chapel on the - heath: the Talbot inn was religious: stories of subterraneous passages - thence to the priory. A well lately found in the ploughed fields at - Woodstock hill, a mile south of this place, and more such like in the - fields. Hereabouts they call camps <em>barrows</em>, meaning boroughs.</p> - - <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Rowldrich.</span> Br. <i>temple</i>.</div> - - <p>Hence we rode to see Rowldrich stones, a very noble monument; the first - antiquity of this sort that I had seen, and from which I concluded - these works to be temples of the ancient Britons. I crave leave to - reserve its description for another work. In the clay upon these - hills they dig out <i lang="la">cornua ammonis</i>, small, but very prettily - notched: they are nothing but clay hardened in the shell. Further on, - in Tadmerton parish, we rode through a large round camp on the top of - a hill doubly intrenched, able to contain a great army. Bloxham has a - very fine church, the steeple of an odd make, but pretty enough. At - Broughton near Banbury is the seat of the lord Say and Seal.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Branavis.</div> - - <div class="sidenote">TAB. VIII. 2d Vol.</div> - - <p>Banbury was a Roman station, called <em>Branavis</em>. That master - builder the bishop of Lincoln, Alexander, built the castle anno 1125, - I doubt not but upon the Roman fortification: he enlarged it and built - it after the mode of those times, taking in a huge space of ground - with a wall, towers and ditch: within he made another work upon one - side, where were the lodgings, chapel, &c. A small part of the wall of - this is only now left, of good hewn stone; but the ditch went along - the middle of the adjacent street, and houses are built by the side - of it, out of its ruins, as people now alive remember: in the civil - wars it received new additional works, for there are plain remains - of four bastions; a brook running without them. Many Roman coins and - antiquities have been found here. There is an inn called the Altarstone - inn, from an altar which stood in a nich under the sign: this had a ram - and fire carved on it, as they say: part of the stone is still left: - I imagine this was originally a Roman altar: they tell us William the - Conqueror lay at this inn. The town is a large straggling place and - dirty, though on a rock with sufficient descent: one would think it - was walled about in most ancient times. Here are three gates, though - of later make. The tower of the church, they say, was much higher than - at present: the church is of great compass: three rows of pillars, but - of too slender a manner, which makes them all lean awry, and different - ways: many additions have been made to it: a touch-stone monument of - the family of Cope: other old monuments ruined. The bridge is long, - consisting of many arches. <i>Branau supercilium aquæ</i> seems well - to answer the etymology of the Roman name, as Mr. Baxter has it:<span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">49</span> - The stone of this country is mixed with sand. Black gloves is a great - manufacture here. Kenric the West-Saxon king, anno 540, routed the - Britons at this place.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>8·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <div class="bold"><i>Prospect of Banbury.</i> <span class="smcap">Branavis.</span> <i>13. Sept. 1724.</i></div> - <img src="images/i_048.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>9·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <div class="bold"><i>Prospect of Warwick</i> <i>July 7<sup>th.</sup> 1725</i></div> - <img src="images/i_049.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>Fletcher Sculp.</i></div> - <figcaption>PRAESIDIUM</figcaption> - </figure> - - <p>We went over the vale of Red-horse and Edghill, which presents us with - a most extensive prospect, steep to the north: on the top of it, at - Warmleighton, is a large and strong intrenchment of a circular but - irregular form, said to be Danish by the inhabitants, but seemingly - more ancient and British. Descending the hill for a mile, we rode - through Radway, and over the field between it and Kyneton, where the - famous battle of Edghill was fought: we were shown some of the graves - of the slain. At Tellisford we crossed the Foss-way.</p> - - <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Præsidium.</span> Warwick.</div> - - <p>Warwick is situate on a rock, a fine new-built town, having been almost - wholly burnt down in 1694. The church and lofty tower is new built, - except the east end, which is old and very good work: there are a many - fine brass monuments of the earls of Warwick and others, as the earl of - Essex; <span class="sidenote">TAB. IX. 2d Vol.</span>many chapels and confessionaries, with other remains of ancient - superstition: in the chapter-house on the north side is a tomb of the - lord Brook. The castle stands upon the river Avon, over which is a - stone bridge with a dozen arches: across is a large stone-work dam, - where the water falls over it as a cascade, under the castle wall, - which is built on a rock forty foot above the water. It overlooks the - whole town and country, being delicately situate for pleasure and - strength, fenced with a deep mound and strong embattled double walls - and lofty towers: there are good apartments and lodgings next the - river, the residence of the lord Brook: on one side of the area is a - very high mount: we were shown the sword and other gigantic reliques - of Guy the famous earl of Warwick. The priory on the north-east side - of the town overlooks a pleasant woody vale: there are a great many - curious original pictures, by Vandike and other good hands, of kings, - queens, famous statesmen, persons of learning both at home and abroad. - A mile out of town, on the side of a hill, is a pretty retired cell, - called Guy-cliffe: in an old chapel there is a statue of Guy eight foot - high: the fence of the court is intire rock, in which are cut stables - and out-houses. We saw the rough cave where they say Guy died a hermit.</p> - - <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Coventry</span>.</div> - - <p>Coventry is a large old city: it was walled about: the gates are - yet standing. It is adorned with a fine and very large church and - beautiful spire a hundred yards high. There is another good church in - the same yard. The cross is a beautiful Gothic work, sixty six foot - high: in niches are the statues of the English kings. At the south end - of the town stands a tall spire by itself, part of the Grey Friers’ - conventual church. The town-house is worth seeing: the windows filled - with painted glass of the images of the old earls, kings, &c. who have - been benefactors to the town. Here the famous lady Godiva redeemed the - privileges thereof almost at the expence of her modesty, the memory - whereof is preserved by an annual cavalcade. These verses are wrote in - the town-house.</p> - - <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">50</span></p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry" lang="la"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0"><i>Auxiliis olim stetit alma Coventria regum</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Dum fortuna fuit. Magnos colit hinc Edoardos</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Henricosque suos, urbs non ingrata patronos.</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Jamque adeo afflictis crescit spes altera rebus</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Elizabetha tuis princeps mitissima sceptris.</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Lætior illuxit nullo pax rege Britannis.</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Ergo age diva tuis sis fœlix civibus usque,</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Exuperans patrias & avitas æmula laudes.</i></div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0"><i>Princeps ille niger (niveis cui vertice pennis</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Crista minax, victi regis cæsique Bohæmi</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Exuviis) heros Edoardus magnus in armis,</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Hic sedem posuit. Sic dicta est principis aula.</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Hoc authore fuit libertas civibus aucta,</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Muneribusque ornata suis, res publica crevit.</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Hinc depicta, vides, passim sua penna per urbem</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Testatur magni monumentum & pignus amoris.</i></div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0"><i>Labentes fatis (quid enim perdurat in ævum?)</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Fortunas urbis tandem miseratus agrorum</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Extendit fines, Northumbrius ille Johannes.</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Cumque fuit bello dux invictissimus, armis</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>In mediis coluit pacis, vir providus, artes;</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Exemploque suum vocat ad pia facta Robertum.</i></div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0"><i>Non tantum meruit Leofricus Cestrius olim</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Nec conjux Godiva, pii dux fœmina facti.</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Godiva ab turpi quæ lege coacta mariti</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Fertur equo, diffusa comas nudata per urbem.</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Asseruitque suos, culpent utcunque minores!</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Vicit amor patriæ libertatisque cupido:</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Quantum hodie patrem referens Leicestrius heros</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Retro sublapsam qui nostram restituit rem,</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Sustinet in pejus ruituram urbisque salutem.</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>I modo quo virtus te fert, sic itur ad astra.</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Et quibus insistis fœlix, procede paternis</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Auspiciis, maneatque tuos hæc cura nepotes.</i></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <div class="right">Holbech, May 1712.</div> - - <div class="chapter"> - <span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">51</span> - <hr class="full thick"> - <hr class="full mt0"> - <h2 class="nobreak" id="ITER_CIMBRICUM"><span class="gesperrt2">ITER CIMBRICUM</span>. III.</h2> - </div> - - <hr class="full"> - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry" lang="la"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0">———<i>quid virtus & quid sapientia possit</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Utile proposuit nobis exemplar Ulyssem.</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Qui domitor Trojæ, multorum providus urbes</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Et mores hominum inspexit</i>——— <span class="smcap fright">Hor.</span></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - <hr class="full"> - - <div class="center bold mt3 lh1"><i>To</i><span class="gesperrt1"> RICHARD MYDDLETON MASSEY</span><br> - <i>of</i> Wisbech, <i>M. D.</i></div> - - <p class="drop-cap">TO you of right I inscribe this journey, to which your company and my - inclination to see somewhat of the world allured me. I had conceived - great notions of the old Britons betimes, and longed to hear at least - a language spoke soon after the deluge; and I then prided myself as - much as Cæsar formerly in making this small inroad into their country. - I willingly take this occasion of recognizing how I ought to esteem - it a happiness, that you chanced to be seated in a place so near that - of my nativity, and presented to me a subject of imitation, in all - the commendable qualifications that may conduce to the felicity and - ornament of life. Your deep insight into the <em>materia medica</em>, the - theory and practice of physic, your great knowledge of antiquities, - natural history, and all polite learning, and the excellence of your - hand in designing, were as so many spurs to me in my young years, when - we are most apt at imitation: and that the latter exercise of the pen - is of importance to all the others, is too notorious, and universally - allowed by all, to need any solemn proof. Who sees not that the defeats - and confusion in anatomy and botany, and every part of philosophy, - is owing to the want of drawing? when the innumerable labours of so - many ages are either lost to posterity, or imperfectly transmitted, - for that reason. How well does this range and distinguish ideas, and - imprint them in one’s own mind, as well as make them known to others? - It is not to be disputed but a person that understands it, sees much - farther into things than others: the beauties of art and nature are - open to him. Indeed every body is pleased with perfection and beauty, - though they know not why: as suppose that of a fine statue, they are - hugely delighted with it, though they understand not that it is owing - to the proper disposition and contrast of the limbs, to the attitude, - the grace of the posture, the expression of the action, the light and - shade, and a thousand other requisites, as well as the particular - delicacy and outline of the parts and members: and these things are - only to be learnt and gathered from Nature’s self, from copying and - observing it; for she is the grand exemplar of all fine strokes in - drawing;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">52</span> as Aristotle formed his Art of Poetry from the great genius - of Homer, and he from the force of Nature.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Grantham.</div> - - <p>Grantham was certainly a Roman town. Burton in his Commentaries on - Antoninus’s Itinerary relates, that a great stone trough, covered - with a stone, was dug up there, full of Roman coins, p. 216.<a id="FNanchor_38" href="#Footnote_38" class="fnanchor">[38]</a> The - street that runs on the east of the church is called Castle-street: - between it and the river have been dug up foundations of a castle, - as they say.<a id="FNanchor_39" href="#Footnote_39" class="fnanchor">[39]</a> I have a piece of glass with enamel upon it, ground - with an engine; which is curious, and I take it for Roman: it was - found in the Grange garden. Here is a spacious church and fine spire, - much noted: it is a hundred yards high, equalled by another in this - county, Louth, besides the tower of Boston: under the south wall of - this church are two tomb-stones, said to be of the founders; one in old - French, the date only legible, 1362; the other, <span class="antiqua" lang="la">hic jacent ricard - de calceby et margareta vx ejus m ccclxii</span>. On a stone in a wall in - Church-lane this inscription (the <em>orate pro anima</em> seems to have - been cut out by order of some zealot) <span class="antiqua" lang="la">Iohis Goldsmyth mercatoris - de Grantham</span>, a coat of arms, quarterly; in the sinister upper - quarter a mullet. There were many religious houses here, some reliques - of them left: in one just by the market-place is a very pretty little - chapel, or oratory, adorned with imagery. The Angel inn was once a - commandery. Here is a good free-school, erected by Richard Fox bishop - of Winchester, where Sir Isaac Newton received the first principles of - literature, under the famous William Walker then school-master.<a id="FNanchor_40" href="#Footnote_40" class="fnanchor">[40]</a> - Belvoir, the seat of the dukes of Rutland, stands on a high hill with a - very fine prospect: you may see Nottingham castle and Lincoln minster, - and all around you, below, many towns and lordships the demesnes of - this noble family. Here is a perfect pattern of the true old English - hospitality. In the fine gallery are many ancient and modern family - pictures and others; the original one of king Charles I. as he sat at - his trial. This place was the possession of Robert de Totney,<a id="FNanchor_41" href="#Footnote_41" class="fnanchor">[41]</a> a - great man who came in with William the Conqueror: he built a priory - near it. I imagine originally here was a Roman camp; for coins have - been found about it.<a id="FNanchor_42" href="#Footnote_42" class="fnanchor">[42]</a> Upon the edge of Lincolnshire we visited the - tombs of the duke of Rutland’s family at Bottesworth, which are worth - seeing.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Nottingham.</div> - - <p>Nottingham we arrived at after crossing the Roman road called Foss: - it is a pleasant and beautiful town. They have a great manufacture - here for stockings, which they weave in looms from the invention of - a neighbouring clergyman. Their ale is highly valued for softness - and pleasant <span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">53</span>taste: the cellars in the town are hewn out of - the rock two or three story deep, to fourscore steps sometimes. The - castle is a goodly building on a high perpendicular rock; seems to - have been modelled after some of Inigo Jones’s draughts: many good - pictures there: it commands a vast prospect. The south side of the - rock is altogether inaccessible: a winding stair-case along it to the - bottom, which they call Mortimer’s hole: there are vast subterraneous - grottos cut underneath. St. Mary’s church is a fine old lightsome - building, with a good ring of eight bells. We saw Mr. Hurst’s gardens, - late Pierpoint’s, which are very pretty; in the middle a copy of the - Dalmatian slave in metal. One may easily guess Nottingham to have - been an ancient town of the Britons: as soon as they had proper tools - they fell to work upon the rocks, which every where offer themselves - so commodiously to make houses in; and I doubt not that here was a - considerable collection of colonies of this sort: that which I have - described in <a href="#i_053_1">Plate 39</a>.<span class="sidenote">TAB. XXXIX.</span> will give us an idea of them; it is in the - duke of Newcastle’s park. What is visible at present is not of so old - a date as their time; yet I see no doubt but that it is formed upon - theirs: this is a ledge of perpendicular rock hewn out into a church, - houses, chambers, dove-houses, &c. The church is like those in the - rocks at Bethlehem and other places in the Holy Land: the altar is - natural rock, and there has been painting upon the wall; a steeple, - I suppose, where a bell hung, and regular pillars. The river here - winding about makes a fortification to it; for it comes to both ends - of the cliff, leaving a plain before the middle. The way to it was by - gates cut out of the rock, and with oblique entrance for more safety. - Without is a plain with three niches, which I fancy their place of - judicature, or the like: there is regularity in it, and seems to - resemble that square called the Temple in the Pictish castle, <a href="#i_053_2">Plate - 38</a>.<span class="sidenote">TAB. XXXVIII.</span> in Scotland. The wild <em>cherry-tree</em> grows upon this place, - and many curious plants, <em>liver-worts</em>, <em>lychnis sylvester</em>. - 9. <em>clus. ruta muraria</em>, <em>rosa pimpinellæ folio odorata</em>, - <em>capillus veneris</em>, <em>umbilicus veneris</em>. Between this and the - castle is an hermitage of like workmanship. The butchers shambles is - an old edifice built for a granary. Clifton near here is a good seat, - with pretty gardens and a noble prospect: in the church are many old - brasses of the family of this name. Three miles from Nottingham is - Woolaton hall, the seat of my lord Middleton; which is a good piece - of old building: there is a pretty summer-house panelled and cieled - with looking-glass, which produces a pleasant effect: underneath is a - water-house with grotesque work of shells, &c. A little beyond, in the - road, upon the brow of the hill, is a high rugged piece of rock, called - Hemlock-stone, seen at a good distance: probably it is the remains of a - quarry dug from around it. Beyond this we entered Derbyshire. There are - some few ruins of Dale abbey seated in a valley, and the east end of - the choir over-grown with ivy: the mullions of the windows are knocked - out (I suppose for sake of the iron:) it is overlooked by a near and - high hill covered with oaks. In the ascent, out of the rock is cut a - cell, or little oratory, called the Hermitage:<span class="sidenote">TAB. XIV.</span> on one side the door and - windows, at the east end, a square altar and a step up to it of the - same quarry, little niches cut in the wall, and a bench to sit on all round.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_053_1"> - <div class="plateno"><i>39</i></div> - <div class="bold">BRYTTISH.</div> - <img src="images/i_053_1.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="right-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div><i lang="la">Illus trissimo Principi<br> - Iohi Duci de Novo Castro &c.<br> - Antiquitatis in Vivario Suo<br> - Juxta Nottingham Tabula Sacra.</i></div> - </div> - </div> - <figcaption><i>Rudera Coloniæ Troglodyticæ juxta. Nottingham.</i></figcaption> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb5" id="i_053_2"> - <div class="plateno"><i>38</i></div> - <div class="fleft smcap">Pictish</div> - <div class="caption"><i>Caves of Hawthornden, Scotland.</i></div> - <img src="images/i_053_2.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>I. Harris sculp.</i></div> - </figure> - - <p class="clear">Derby<span class="sidenote smcap clear">Derby.</span> has five churches; the tower of one is very fine. The new-erected - silk manufacture is a remarkable curiosity: the house is of a vast - bulk, five or six stories high: the whole furniture is one machine - turned by a single water-wheel, which communicates its power through - the whole, and actuates no less than 97–746 several wheels or motions, - and still employs<span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">54</span> three or four hundred hands to over-look and act - in concert with it. Mr. Loom the owner brought the design of it from - Italy.<a id="FNanchor_43" href="#Footnote_43" class="fnanchor">[43]</a> The waters that run here, whether from the lead mines or - coal, are apt to cause the <em>bronchocele</em> in the fair sex.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Burton.</div> - - <p>Beyond Derby, along the Ricning way is Burton upon the Trent, where - is a bridge of thirty-seven arches. Here was an old abbey: they are - pulling down the ruins to build a new church.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Derventio.</div> - - <div class="sidenote">TAB. LXXXVI.</div> - - <p>A mile below Derby, upon the river Derwent, stood the old Roman city - Derventio, now called Little Chester. I traced the track of the wall - quite round, and in some places saw under ground the foundation of it - in the pastures, and some vaults along the side of it: they dig it up - daily to mend the ways with. Mr. Lord’s cellar is built on one side of - the wall three yards thick: it is of a square form, standing between - the Roman way called the Ricning street and the river. Within the walls - are foundations of houses in all the pastures; and in the fields round - the castle (as they call it) you may see the tracks of the streets - laid with gravel: in a dry summer the grass over them is very bare. - Divers wells are found, some still remaining, square, curbed with good - stone. Brass, silver, and gold Roman coins have been found in great - abundance; earthen pipes, aqueducts, and all kinds of antiquities. - Towards the river they have dug up human bones, brass rings, and the - like. There was a bridge over the river, for it was too deep and rapid - for a ford: they can feel the foundations of it with a staff. In Mr. - Hodgkin’s cellar a stag’s head with horns was dug up; probably a temple - thereabouts: a square well in his garden three foot and a half one way, - and four another.</p> - - <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Ricning-way.</span></div> - - <p>A little further northward upon the Ricning street,<a id="FNanchor_44" href="#Footnote_44" class="fnanchor">[44]</a> which seems to - take its name from the Saxon <em>rige</em>, <em>dorsum</em>, is Horreston - castle, whose ruins on a hoary rock are nearly obliterated; and out of - it they cut great quantities of rubstones to whet scythes withal. We - are now got into the very Peak of Derbyshire, the British Alps, where - the odd prospects afford some entertainment to a traveller, and relieve - the fatigue of so tedious a road. Now you pass over barren moors, in - perpetual danger of slipping into coal-pits and lead-mines; or ride for - miles together, on the edge of a steep hill, on solid slippery rock or - loose stones, with a valley underneath, where you can scarce discover - the bottom with your eye; which brought into my mind that beautiful - in Virgil,</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry" lang="la"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0"><i>Saxa per & scopulos & depressas convalles.</i></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p>Instead of trees and hedges, they fence in their poor meadow or arable - with walls of loose stones picked up from beneath their feet. The - extended sides of the mountains are generally powdered over as it were - with rocks, streams of water dribbling down every where; and now bolder - cataracts diversify the romantic scene.</p> - - <p>At the smelting-mills they melt down the lead ore, and run it into a - mould, whence it becomes pigs as they call it: the bellows continually - are kept in motion by running water. We were complemented to be let - down two hundred yards deep into the mines, if we pleased. We came to - a monstrous<span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">55</span> parcel of gigantic rocks, seemingly piled one a-top of - another as in the wars of the gods, called the Torr: there were a few - inhabitants at bottom, in little cottages, who durst trust themselves - under so ruinous a shelter: it was fitly represented by those verses of - the poet,</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry" lang="la"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0"><i>Stabat acuta silex, præcisis undique saxis,</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Speluncæ dorso insurgens, altissima visu.</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Dirarum nidis domus opportuna volucrum!</i> <span class="fright"><span class="smcap">Virg.</span> viii. Æn.</span></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp68 mb5" id="i_054"> - <div class="plateno"><i>86</i></div> - <div class="bold">DERVENTIO<br><i class="small">31 Sept. 1721.</i></div> - <img src="images/i_054.jpg" alt=""> - <figcaption class="bold">Simon Degg Ar. <i>Castrum Romanum jam suum d.d. W. Stukeley</i></figcaption> - </figure> - - <p>I took the pains to clamber on hands and knees almost to the top, and - entered another hermit’s cell, who had a mind, if possible, to get - quite out of the world: it is hewn in the rock, with a most dreary - prospect before it: on one end is a crucifix and a little niche, where - I suppose the mistaken zeal of the starved anchorite placed his saint, - or such trinket. Over-against it, about half a mile off, is another - such cliff; but by the care of a gentleman that lives underneath (Mr. - Ashe) it is reduced into a more agreeable form: there is an easy ascent - up to it by steps hewn out of the rock, and abundance of alcoves, - grots, summer-houses, cellars, pinacles, dials, balustrades, urns, &c. - all of the same materials: earth is carried to the top, and fine grassy - walks with greens planted along them, upon this hanging terrace, whence - you have a free view over many a craggy mountain. I was highly pleased - with so elegant a composure, where Art and industry had so well played - its part against rugged Nature.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Chatsworth.</div> - - <p>We went through Wirksworth, and over the rapid Derwent, whilst on a - sudden (like the advantageous change of a scene) we were surprised at - the sight of Chatsworth, the famous seat of the duke of Devonshire, - deservedly reckoned one of the wonders of the Peak, as remarkable for - its situation in so wild a place as its curious fabric and ornaments. - The river here for a while puts on a smooth aspect, and glides gently - by, as unwilling to leave so glorious a place: between it and the house - is a fine venerable walk of trees, retaining the name of that great - philosopher Hobbes, who studied frequently under its shade. A noble - piece of iron-work gates and balusters exposes the front of the house - and court, terminated at the corners next the road with two large stone - pedestals of Attic work, curiously adorned with trophies of war, and - utensils of all the sciences, cut in <em>basso relievo</em>. This face - of the building is Ionic, the whole being a square of a single order, - but every side of a different model: a court in the middle, with a - piazza of Doric columns of one stone each overlaid with prodigious - architraves. The stone is of an excellent sort, veined like marble, - hewn out of the neighbouring quarries, and tumbled down the adjacent - hill: it is introduced into the work in very large sizes, finely - jointed. In the anti-room to the hall are flat stones, of fourteen - foot square, laid upon the heads of four pillars, and so throughout: - in the hall stairs the landing or resting steps of the same dimension: - the doors, chimneys, window-cases, stairs, &c. of marble; the sashes - very large, gilt; the squares two foot broad: the cielings and walls - of all the apartments charged with rare painting of Varrio and other - famous hands: the bath-room all of marble curiously wrought. The - chapel is a most ravishing place: the altar-end and floor marble, the - seats and gallery cedar, the rest of the wall and cieling painted. The - gardens abound with green-houses, summer-houses, walks, wildernesses, - orangeries, with all the furniture of statues, urns, greens, &c. with - canals, basons and water-works of various forms and contrivance, - sea-horses, drakes, dolphins, and other fountains that throw up the - water: an artificial willow-tree of copper spouts and drops water from - every leaf: a wonderful cascade, where, from a neat house of stone like - a temple, out of the mouths of beasts, pipes, urns, &c. a whole river - descends the slope of a hill, a quarter<span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">56</span> of a mile in length, over - steps, with a terrible noise and broken appearance, till it is lost - under ground. Beyond the garden, upon the hills, is a park, and that - overlooked by a very high and rocky mountain: here are some statues and - other antiquities.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Buxton.</div> - - <p>Hence we went by Bakewel, and left Haddon-house belonging to the duke - of Rutland on our left hand, in a pleasant and fruitful valley. We - travelled ten miles over a perfect desert to Buxton, encompassed with - waste and boggy mountains and naked cliffs: the tops of the hills - hereabouts are quagmires, or springs, furnishing numerous rivers - running hence all manner of ways. Nature seems to have thrown these - precipicious heights into the middle of the island on purpose for her - limbeck, to distil the liquid sources of springs by some unknown power. - The valleys are the firmest ground, made of the gritty washings of - the mountains: we were every moment diverted with the appearance of - curious plants, but no tree to be seen. At Buxton are the admirable - warm springs, which invite numbers of strangers yearly, especially - from the northern countries. The duke of Devonshire has built a large - and convenient house for their reception: the bath-room is arched over - head, and the whole made handsome, convenient, and delightful. This - collection of tepid waters, exceeding clear, will receive twenty people - at a time to walk and swim in: the temper thereof, equal to new milk, - or that of one’s own blood, procures a moderate perspiration: its - effect is remarkable for giving that gentle relaxation of the solids, - which takes off the weariness and fatigue of a journey, and refreshes - immediately: it is useful physically in many cases, and may be indulged - more than the hot baths of Somersetshire, which frequently do harm for - that reason, through an imprudent use. Such a one as this was imitated - by the sumptuous bagnios of the Roman emperors. Sir Tho. Delves, who - received a cure here, gave the pump and a pretty stone alcove over the - drinking-spring in the yard: the water may be raised to what height you - please. Philosophers have long sought for a solution of the cause of - these hot springs: the chymists know many mixtures will produce a flame - and effervescence, particularly steel filings and sulphur, when water - is poured thereon; but that these could continue the same course and - quantity of water, and this regular heat, through all ages and seasons, - is worthy of admiration. Indulgent Nature indeed has made some amends - to the inhabitants of this barren region by this inestimable gift. - We found in one of the rooms these verses, wrote upon the wall by a - physician that formerly frequented the place:</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry" lang="la"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0"><i>Corpore debilior Grani se proluit undis,</i></div> - <div class="i2"><i>Quærit aquas Aponi, quem febris atra necat.</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Ut penitus renem purget cur Psaulia tanti,</i></div> - <div class="i2"><i>Vel quæ Lucinæ gaudia, Calderiæ?</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Sola mihi Buxtona placet, Buxtona Britannis</i></div> - <div class="i2"><i>Undæ Grani, Aponus, Psaulia, Calderiæ.</i></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">About half a mile off is that stupendous cavern called Pool’s Hole, - under a great mountain: the entrance at the foot thereof is very low - and narrow, so that you must stoop to get in: but immediately it - dilates into a wide and lofty concavity, which reaches above a quarter - of a mile end-wise and farther, as they tell us: some old women with - lighted candles are guides in this Cimmerian obscurity: water drops - from the roof every where, and incrusts all the stones with long - crystals and fluors: whence a thousand imaginary figures are shown you, - by the name of lions, fonts, lanterns, organs, flitch of bacon, &c. At - length you come to the Queen of Scots<span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">57</span> pillar, as a <em>terminus</em> of - most people’s curiosity. A stream of water runs along the middle, among - the fallen rocks, with a hideous noise, re-echoed from all sides of the - horrid concave: on the left hand is a sort of chamber, where they say - Pool, a famous robber, lived. We may very well apply these verses to - the place:</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza" lang="la"> - <div class="i0"><i>At specus & Caci detecta apparuit ingens</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Regia, & umbrosæ penitus patuere cavernæ:</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Non secus ac si qua penitus vi terræ dehiscens</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Infernas reseret sedes & regna recludat</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Pallida, diis invisa, superque immane barathrum</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Cernatur——</i> <span class="fright"><span class="smcap">Virg.</span> Æn. viii.</span></div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0">Within appears old Pool’s tremendous cave,</div> - <div class="i0">With glimmering lights redoubled horror shown;</div> - <div class="i0">Yawning, as earth by strong convulsions torn</div> - <div class="i0">Opens the caverns of the Stygian king</div> - <div class="i0">Dire, hateful to the gods, and the black pit</div> - <div class="i0">Discloses wide——</div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p>We entered the pleasanter country of Cheshire at Lyme, the seat of - Mr. Leigh: here are curious gardens, lakes, cascades, fountains, - summer-houses. This is a fine level, woody, and rich county, abounding - with lakes of water called meres: the towns stand but thin, and it - being mostly inclosure, there are paved causeways for horses along - the clayey roads: many ancient seats and parks, but most ruinous and - decayed. We were entertained by the worthy Sir Francis Leycester at his - seat, Nether Tabley, by Knutsford, upon the Roman way from Mancunium - to Deva: this house stands in the midst of a mere: here is a good - library completed by the curious possessor, with a vast addition to his - ancestors’ store, of all the English history especially. In cleansing - this mote some time since they found an old British axe, or some such - thing, made of large flint, neatly ground into an edge, with a hole in - the middle to fasten into a handle: it would serve for a battle-axe. - Rotherston church stands upon a hill, and commands a lovely prospect - across a mere, a mile and half in length and a mile over, where - amongst great variety of fish are smelts found, properly inhabitants - of the sea. There is a floating island, formed from turf, sustained by - implication of the roots of <i>alnus nigra baccifera</i> growing on it, - which the wind wafts over from one side to the other. On the south side - of the steeple is this inscription:</p> - - <div class="center"><span class="antiqua">Orate pro anima domini willmi hardwicke vicarii istius ecclesiae<br> - et pro animabus omnium parochianorum qui hoc sculpt.</span></div> - - <p class="noindent">Out of the church-yard you see to the Yorkshire hills beyond - Manchester. By the church-porch were lately dug up three large stone - coffins. In the church are abundance of coats of arms. Among other - curious plants grow hereabouts <i>calamus aromaticus</i> and <i>ros - solis</i>. The Roman road from Manchester to Chester passes the Mersey - river at Stretford, through Altringham, to the north of Rotherston - mere; then by Chapel in the street, by Winingham, to Northwich; then by - Sandy way, the Chamber or Edesbury, it passes the river at Stanford, so - called from the stony ford, to Chester.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Condate.</div> - - <p>We were at Northwich, which I take to be Condate, as all distances - persuade me. It is still, among others hereabouts, famous for - brine-springs, whence they make great quantities of finest salt, by - boiling the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">58</span> water in large iron pans of small depth: as fast as the - salt crystallises, they rake it out and dry it in conic wicker baskets: - the duty paid by it amounts to a great sum of money. About thirty years - ago on the south side of the town they discovered immense mines of - rock salt, which they continually dig up, and send in great lumps to - the maritime parts, where it is dissolved and made into eating-salt. - We were let down by a bucket a hundred and fifty foot deep to the - bottom of the salt quarry, a most pleasant subterraneous prospect: it - looks like a large cathedral, supported by rows of pillars and roof - of crystal, all of the same rock, transparent and glittering from the - numerous candles of the workmen, labouring with their steel pick-axes - in digging it away: this rock-work of salt extends to several acres - of ground. There is a very good church in the town: the end of the - choir is semicircular: the roof of the church is very fine, whereon - are carved several of the wicker baskets before mentioned; whence they - report it was built out of the profits of the salt works. At Lawton - Yates they bore for the salt spring to sixty yards deep; lower down, at - Hassal, it is forty seven; at Wheeloc, eighteen; about Middlewich it is - less; at Northwich it arises to open day; which seems to intimate that - the salt spring runs between layers of the earth in an horizontal line: - upon boring, it rises with great impetuosity, so that the workmen have - scarce time to get out of the wells. This is all along the side of a - brook that comes from a remarkable hill called Mawcop, upon the edge - of Staffordshire, so that the ground rises above the true level in the - mentioned proportion.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Mancunium.</div> - - <p>Manchester, in Lancashire, is the <em>Mancunium</em> of the Romans, - the largest, most rich, populous, and busy village in England. There - are about two thousand four hundred families. The site of the Roman - <em>castrum</em>, between Sir John Bland’s and Manchester, is now called - Knock Castle. They have a fabulous report of Turquin a giant living - there, killed by Sir Lancelot de Lake, a knight of king Arthur’s: in it - was found a Saxon ring, mentioned in Hickes’s <cite>Thesaurus</cite>, now in - possession of Sir Hans Sloan. A Roman altar dug up here, described by - Dr. Lister, Philos. Trans. N. 155. p. 457. and a large gold Roman ring. - The Castle field, as sometime called, is about as big as Lincoln’s-Inn - square, the foundation of the wall and ditch remaining. Some call it - Man-castle: its name comes from the British <em>maen</em>, <em>lapis</em>, - meaning its rocky soil. The old church, though very large, having - three rows of neat pillars, was not capable of containing the people - at divine service; whence they raised, by voluntary subscriptions, a - new edifice after the London models, finished last year: the choir - is alcove-fashion, and the pilasters painted of <em>lapis-lazuli</em> - colour. There is a fine new street built to the north. Their trade, - which is incredibly large, consists much in fustians, girth-web, - tickings, tapes, &c. which is dispersed all over the kingdom, and to - foreign parts: they have looms that work twenty-four laces at a time, - which was stolen from the Dutch. The college has a good library for - public use, endowed with 116l. per ann. to buy more books, and a salary - for the librarian. There is a free-school maintained by a mill upon the - river, which raises 300l. per annum. On the same river, for the space - of three miles upwards, there are no less than sixty water-mills. The - town stands chiefly on a rock; and across the river is another large - town, called Salthorp. Dr. Yarburgh, son to him late of Newark, showed - me a great collection of old Greek, Persian, Tartarian, and Punic coins - brought from Asia. About a mile off, at the seat of Sir John Bland, is - a Roman altar, lately dug up thereabouts: in the mosses, as they call - them in this country, they often find reliques<span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">59</span> of antiquity, such as - arrow-heads, celts, pick-axes, kettles, &c. of brass; many are in the - repository of the library: likewise subterraneous fir-trees, as in most - other countries in the like sort of ground. French wheat grows commonly - hereabouts, much used among the poor people, of very different species - from ours: they have likewise wheat with long beards like barley, and - barley with four rows of grain on an ear, and great plenty of potatoes.</p> - - <p>We passed through Delamere forest, upon the Roman road, in our way - to Chester. They say here was formerly an old city, now called the - Chamber on the Forest; I suppose, some fort or camp to secure the road. - From hence you have a fine prospect to the Welsh mountains, such a - noble scene of nature as I never beheld before. Beeston castle is on - our left, built upon a rocky precipice.<span class="sidenote smcap">Deva.</span> Chester is a fine old city, - and colony of the Romans, the residence some time of the <i>legio - vicesima victrix</i>: a hypocaust was lately found, lined with bricks - made by that legion. I need not repeat what other authors say of the - antiquities at this place. The rows or piazzas are singular, through - the whole town giving shelter to foot people. I fancied it a remain - of the Roman porticos. Four churches beside the cathedral, which is - a pile venerable indeed for age and almost ruin: there are shadows - of many pictures on the walls, <em>madonnas</em>, saints, bishops, &c. - but defaced. At the west end are some images of the earls Palatine - of Chester in niches. The adjoining abbey is quite ruined. The walls - round the city are kept in very good repair at the charge of the - corporation, and serve for a pleasant airy walk. The Exchange is a neat - building, supported by columns, thirteen foot high, of one stone each: - over it is the city-hall, a well-contrived court of judicature. The - castle was formerly the palace, and where the earls assembled their - parliaments, and enacted laws independent of the kings of England, - and determined all judicial trials themselves. Abundance of Roman and - British antiquities are found hereabouts. At Stretton, Roman coins, - and a camp-kettle of copper dug up at Codington: near it divers other - antiquities. The old Watling-street way from Dover came originally - hither through Stretton and Aldford; though I suppose in after-times of - the Romans they turned it off more southward into Wales, for sake of - the many towns seated on the Severn.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Wales.</div> - - <p>Next we entered Wales, and came to Wrexham in Flintshire. Here is a - good church, and the finest tower-steeple I ever saw, except Boston: - it is adorned with abundance of images. There is a new town-house - built like that at Chester. The common people speak the Welsh. The - gentry are well-bred, hospitable, generous and open-hearted: the - females are generally handsome. I took a great deal of pleasure in - hearing the natives talk in their own language, and remarked a great - many words among them still retained in our country of Lincolnshire - Holland: it is probable enough that our fens and morasses might be - a long security to us against the Saxons, as it had been to them - against the Romans. I shall give instances of a few words. When we - put oatmeal into water-gruel or milk, we call it <em>lithing</em> the - pot: the same is signified by the Welsh word <em>llith</em>. Davis - thinks the English <em>slide</em> comes from the British <em>llithro</em>, - <em>labi</em>: we call it <em>slither</em>. A <em>bull-beggar</em>, or - <em>boggleboe</em>, is manifestly the British <em>bwbach</em>, with all - its synonymes. A top we call a <em>whirligig</em>, purely British. We - say a <em>whisking</em> fellow, dexterous, ready: British <em>gwisgi</em>, - To <em>whyne</em>; British <em>gwynio</em>. Very many such like occur in - Dr. Skinner’s <cite>Etymologicum</cite>, which he would fain persuade us - the Welsh learnt from the Saxons, <span class="sidenote smcap">Bonium.</span>but without reason. We passed by - the valley upon the river Dee, where was the famous British monastery - in early times, whereof Pelagius was abbot, whose British name<span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">60</span> was - Morgan; but no remains discernible. What some talk concerning it, - probably the vestiges of the Roman city; for many foundations, coins, - and antiquities have been dug up; and not long since two gates of the - city were left. We entered Shropshire, passing by Ellsmere and Wem - to Newport, where is a noble foundation for a school well endowed - by William Adams esq; to the value of 7000l. over the door is this - distich, <i lang="la">in fundatorem</i>:</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry" lang="la"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0"><i>Scripsisti heredem patriam tibi quæ dedit ortum,</i></div> - <div class="i2"><i>Scriberis ergo tuæ, jure, pater patriæ.</i></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">he gave 550l. towards building the town-house.</p> - - <p>Presently entering Staffordshire, we came into the Watling-street, laid - very broad and deep with gravel not yet worn out, where it goes over - commons and moors. It is raised a good height above the soil, and so - strait, that upon an eminence you may see it ten or twenty miles before - you, and as much behind, over many hill-tops answering one the other as - a visto of trees. Here and there, between one Roman town and another, - you meet with the remains of an old fort or guard-place. We lodged - at an inn called Ivesey bank, on the borders between Staffordshire - and Shropshire. About a mile off, in a large wood, stands Boscobel - house, where the Pendrils lived, who preserved king Charles II. after - Worcester fight, and famous for the Royal Oak.<span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Royal Oak.</span></span> The grand-daughter of - that William Pendril still lives in the house. The floor of the garret - (which is a popish chapel) being matted, prevents any suspicion of a - little cavity with a trap-door over the stair-case, where the king was - hid: his bed was artfully placed behind some wainscot that shut up very - close. A bow-shot from the house, just by a horse-track passing through - the wood, stood the Royal Oak into which the king, and his companion - colonel Carlos, climbed by means of the hen-roost ladder, when they - judged it no longer safe to stay in the house; the family reaching them - victuals with the nut-hook. It happened (as they related it to us) - that whilst these two were in the tree, a party of the enemy’s horse, - sent to search the house, came whistling and talking along this road: - when they were just under the tree, an owl flew out of a neighbouring - tree, and hovered along the ground as if her wings were broke, which - the soldiers merrily pursued without any circumspection. The tree is - now inclosed within a brick wall, the inside whereof is covered with - laurel; of which we may say, as Ovid did of that before the Augustan - palace, <i lang="la">mediamque tuebere quercum</i>. The oak is, in the middle, - almost cut away by travellers whose curiosity leads them to see it: - close by the side grows a young thriving plant from one of its acorns. - The king, after the restoration, reviewing the place, carried some of - the acorns, and set them in St. James’s park, or garden, and used to - water them himself: he gave this Pendril an estate of about 200l. per - annum, which still remains among them. Over the door of the inclosure I - took this inscription cut in marble.</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry" lang="la"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0"><i>Felicissimam arborem quam in asylum</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>potentissimi regis Caroli II. Deus O. M.</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>per quem reges regnant hic crescere</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>voluit, tam in perpetuam rei tantæ memoriam,</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>quam specimen firmæ in reges</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>fidei, muro cinctam posteris commendant</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Basilius & Jana Fitzherbert.</i></div> - <div class="i10"><i>Quercus amica Jovi.</i></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">61</span></p> - - <p>Entering Staffordshire, we went along the Watling-street by - Stretton and Water-Eaton: where a brook crosses the road was the - <span class="sidenote smcap">Pennocrucium.</span><em>Pennocrucium</em> of the Romans, as mentioned in the Itinerary of - Antoninus. A little way off is Penkridge, which no doubt retains - somewhat of the ancient name.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Litchfield.</div> - - <p>Litchfield is a city neat enough. The cathedral is a very handsome - pile, with numerous statues in niches at the front, which appears very - majestic half a mile off, there being two high spires, and another - higher in the middle of the cross. The rebels intirely ruined all the - ornament of the inside, with the brass inscriptions, tombs, &c. and - were going to pull down the whole fabric for sale. It is built in the - middle of a bog for security, and held out some fierce attacks for - king Charles I. This was made a metropolitical see by the potent king - Offa. St. Ceadda lived an eremitical life here by the spring near Stow - church. This town arose from the ruin of the Roman <span class="sidenote smcap">Etocetum.</span><em>Etocetum</em>, - a mile off, where the Rickning and Watling streets cross, now called - Chesterfield wall, from some reliques of its fortifications: it stands - high: the Rickning street is very visible southward, passing within a - mile of Fotherby, and so to a park in Sutton Colfield, Warwickshire; - thence to Bromicham. Castle hill, two miles hence above Stone hall, - is a camp, the port eastward. A mile and half from Wall is West-wall, - a camp; and Knaves-castle, near the Watling-street, probably a guard - upon the road: it is a circle of twenty yards diameter, with a square - in the middle, three or four yards broad, with a breast-work about it: - the whole is inclosed with three ditches: it stands in a large common. - This Rickning is all along called by Dr. Plot <em>Icknilway</em>, but - injuriously, and tends only to the confusion of things; I suppose, - to favour his <em>Iceni</em> in this country; which notion is but - chimerical. We passed through Tamworth, pleasantly situated in a - plain watered by the river Tame, which divides it into two counties: - it was the residence of the Mercian kings, and has been secured by a - <em>vallum</em> and ditch quite round. Here died the noble lady Elfleda, - daughter of king Alfred, queen of the Mercian kingdom, anno 919. This - town, by William the Conqueror, was given to the Marmyons, who built - the castle here, hereditary champions to the kings of England; from - whom that office descended to the Dymokes of Lincolnshire. We went - through Bosworth over the field where Henry VII. won the kingdom by a - bold and well-timed battle.</p> - - <p class="right">Boston, Dec. 1713.</p> - - <div class="chapter"> - <span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">62</span> - <hr class="full thick"> - <hr class="full mt0"> - <h2 class="nobreak" id="ITER_SABRINIUM"><span class="gesperrt2">ITER SABRINIUM</span>. IV.</h2> - </div> - - <hr class="full"> - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry" lang="la"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i2"><i>O mitte mirari beatæ</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Fumum, & opes, strepitumque Romæ.</i> <span class="smcap fright">Hor.</span></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - <hr class="full"> - - <div class="center bold mt3 lh1"><i>To</i><span class="gesperrt1"> TANCRED ROBINSON</span>, <i>M. D.</i> &c.</div> - - <p class="drop-cap">TO you, Sir, that have visited the boasted remains of Italy, and - other transmarine parts, it would seem presumptuous to offer the - trifle of the following letter, were I not sufficiently apprized of - your great humanity and candour, which prompts you to encourage even - the blossoms of commendable studies. You, that have made an intimate - search, and happily obtained a thorough insight into Nature, consider - that she proceeds regularly by successive gradations from little - things to greater. The acquisition of any part of science is owing - to a conversation with its elements and first principles, whose very - simplicity renders them not disagreeable.</p> - - <p>These pages were memoradums I took in a summer’s journey with our - friend Mr. Roger Gale. This being my first expedition since I came - to live at London, I design as early as possible to commemorate the - felicity I enjoyed thereby of your acquaintance, and the opportunity of - observing the noble character you sustain, of possessing all the wisdom - that ancient or modern learning can give us without vanity, and that - the physician, the scholar, and the gentleman, meet in you.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Bibroci.</div> - - <p>I observe, in Berkshire, a river called Ock, running in the north side - of the county by Abingdon into the Thames, which in the Celtic language - signifies sharp or swift, or perhaps water in general: this is in Oke - hundred. In the south side of the county is the town of Okeingham. - These seem plainly remnants of the old name of the inhabitants of - this country, <em>Bibroci</em>, not yet observed. Near Reading is - Laurence-Waltham, which has been Roman: there is a field called - Castle-field, and vast numbers of coins found. By it is Sunning, once - an episcopal see. From London to Maidenhead it is a gravelly soil; then - a marly chalk begins.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Reading.</div> - - <p>Reading is a large and populous town upon the fall of the Kennet into - the Thames; in the angle of which it stands upon a rising ground, - overlooking the meadows, which have a fine appearance all along the - rivers. There are three churches, built of flint and square stone in - the <em>quincunx</em> fashion, with tall towers of the same. Arch-bishop - Laud was born here. The abbey stood in a charming situation: large - ruins of it still visible, built of flint; the walls about eight - foot thick at present, though the stone that faced them be pillaged - away: the remainder is so hard cemented, that it is not worth while - to separate them: many remnants of arched vaults a good height above - ground, whereon stood, as I suppose, the hall, lodgings, &c. there - is one large room about sixteen yards broad, and twenty-eight long, - semi-circular towards the east end, with five narrow windows, - <span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">63</span>three doors towards the west, and three windows over - them: it was arched over, and seems to have supported a chapel, in - which we fancy king Henry I. was buried with his queen: he founded - this abbey upon an old one, that had been formerly erected by a <span class="sidenote">TAB. XXVI.</span>Saxon - lady. There are the remains of bastions, part of the fortifications, - when garrisoned by the parliament army in the civil wars: <span class="sidenote">TAB. XXIII.</span>the abbey - gate-house is yet pretty intire. Here was a famous old castle, but - long since demolished, perhaps originally Roman. Near the trench the - Danes made between the river Kennet and the Thames, is Catsgrove hill, - a mile off Reading: in digging there they find first a red gravel, - clay, chalk, flints, and then a bed of huge petrified oysters five - yards thick, twenty foot below the surface: these shells are full of - sea sand.<a id="FNanchor_45" href="#Footnote_45" class="fnanchor">[45]</a> Dr. Plot, in <em>Oxfordshire</em>, p. 119. who supposes - these appearances only the sports of Nature, solves this matter after - a way that will induce one to think his cause reduced to extremity. On - the right hand, just beyond Theal, is Inglefield, where king Ethelwolf - routed the Danes.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_063_1"> - <div class="plateno"><i>26</i></div> - <div class="inline left bold"> - <i><span class="large">Ruins of Reding Abby Aug<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span> 14. 1721.</span><br> - Neustrius Henricus situs hic, Inglorius urna<br> - nunc jacet ejectus, tumulum novus advena quærit<br>Frustra</i>——</div> - <img src="images/i_063_1.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>I. V<sup>der</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.6em;">.</span> Gucht Sculp.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp66 mb4" id="i_063_2"> - <div class="plateno"><i>23</i></div> - <div class="large"><b>GATEHOUSES</b></div> - <div class="small"><i>Reading Abby Gatehouse. 14 Aug 1721</i></div> - <img src="images/i_063_2.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="small"><i>The College Gate at Worcester. 30 Aug 1721</i></div> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>I. Harris sculp.</i></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_063_3"> - <div class="plateno"><i>60</i></div> - <div><b>Ad SPINAS</b></div> - <img src="images/i_063_3.jpg" alt=""> - <div> - <div class="fright0 left"> - <ol class="alpha small mt0"> - <li><i>Icening Street.</i></li> - <li><i>Donington Castle.</i></li> - <li><i>Way to Winchester.</i></li> - <li><i>Speen.</i></li> - </ol> - </div> - <div><b><i>Prospect of</i> Newberry <i>from the South between</i> Winchester - <i>and</i> Silchester <i>Road<br>Iun. 28, 1723.</i> <span class="small"><i>Stukeley del</i>:</span></b></div> - </div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>10·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <div class="inline"><span class="smcap xlarge">Spinae</span><br><span class="small"><i>Iun 28 1723</i></span></div> - <img src="images/i_063_4.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i> </div> - <div class="attr"><i>Parker Sculp<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span></i></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp66 mb4" id="i_063_5"> - <div class="plateno"><i>62</i></div> - <div class="mb4 lh0 bold"><i><span class="large">Cunetio</span><br><span class="small">Castrum<br>6 July. 1723.<br> - Algernonio Com de Hartford d.d. W. Stukeley.</span></i></div> - <img src="images/i_063_5.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley delin.</i> </div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_063_6"> - <div class="plateno"><i>63</i></div> - <div><b><i>Prospect of</i> Marlborough <i>from the South. 29 Iun 1723.</i><span class="small fright0" style="margin-right: 5em;">CVNETIO.</span></b></div> - <img src="images/i_063_6.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="small">A. <i>Marlborough Mount.</i> B. <i>the Road to Kennet.</i> C. <i>the - Castle.</i> D. <i>S<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span> Peters Church.</i> E. <i>S<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span> Marys.</i> - F. <i>the Road to Ramsbury.</i> G. <i>the Kennet.</i> H. <i>the remains of - the Roman Castrum.</i> I. <i>Lady Winchilseas.</i> K. <i>Preshute.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley, del.</i></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb5"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>11·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <div><b><span class="smcap large">Cunetio</span><br><span class="small"><i>29 Iun. 1723</i></span></b></div> - <img src="images/i_063_7.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>Parker Sculp<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span></i></div> - </figure> - - <p class="clear">A little west of Newberry<span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Ad Spinam.</span></span> is a village called Speen; which has given - antiquarians a reasonable hint of looking for the town, in Antoninus - called <span class="sidenote">TAB. LX.</span><em>ad Spinas</em>, hereabouts; and doubtless it was where now - stands the north part of the town of Newberry, still called Spinham.<span class="sidenote">TAB. X. 2d Vol.</span> - At this place the great Icening-street road, coming from the Thames - at Goring, and another Roman road running hence through Speen to - Hungerford, and so to Marlborough, crosses the Kennet river. Newberry - has derived itself and name from the ruins of the old one; and the - grounds thereabouts are called Spinham lands. Dunington castle was - once in the possession of Geffrey Chaucer. A remarkable large oak, - venerable through many ages, because it bore his name, was felled in - the civil wars. The Kennet, still called by the country people Cunnet, - near Hungerford, parts the soil, that on the north side being a red - clay gravel, that on the south a chalk. I have often wished that a map - of soils was accurately made, promising to myself that such a curiosity - would furnish us with some new notions of geography, and of the theory - of the earth, which has only hitherto been made from hypotheses. - This brings into my mind a remarkable passage in Sir Robert Atkins’s - <em>Glocestershire</em>: “Lay a line (says he) from the mouth of the - Severn to Newcastle, and so quite round the terrestrial globe, and - coal is to be found every where near that line, and scarce any where - else.”<a id="FNanchor_46" href="#Footnote_46" class="fnanchor">[46]</a></p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Cunetio.</div> - - <p>From Newberry the Roman road (I believe coming from Silchester) passes - east and west to Marlborough, the Roman<span class="sidenote">TAB. LXII. LXIII.</span> - <em>Cunetio</em>,<a id="FNanchor_47" href="#Footnote_47" class="fnanchor">[47]</a> named - from the river. This town consists chiefly of one broad and strait - street, and for the most part upon the original ground-plot; nor does - it seem unlikely that the narrow piazza<span class="sidenote">TAB. XI. 2d vol.</span> continued all along the sides - of the houses is in imitation of them: the square about the church in - the eastern part one may imagine the site of a temple fronting this - street: to the south are some reliques of a priory: the gate-house is - left: on the north has been another religious house, whereof the chapel - remains, now turned into a dwelling-house. <span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">64</span>Where now is the seat of my - lord Hartford was the site of the Roman <em>castrum</em>, for they find - foundations and Roman coins; I saw one of Titus in large brass: but - towards the river, and without my lord’s garden-walls, is one angle of - it left very manifestly, the rampart and ditch intire: the road going - over the bridge cuts it off from the limits of the present castle: the - ditch is still twenty foot broad in some part: it passed originally on - the south of the summer-house, and so along the garden-wall, where it - makes the fence, to the turn of the corner: the mark of it is still - apparent broader than the ditch, which has been repaired since, but of - narrower dimension: then I suppose it went through the garden by the - southern foot of the mount, and round the house through the court-yard, - where I have marked the track thereof with pricked lines in <a href="#i_063_5">Plate 62</a>. - There is a spring in the ditch, so that the foss of the <em>castrum</em> - was always full of water. I suppose it to have been five hundred Roman - feet square within, and the Roman road through the present street of - Marlborough went by the side of it. Afterward, in Saxon or Norman - times, they built a larger castle, upon the same ground, after their - model, and took in more compass for the mount; which obliged the road - to go round it with a turn, till it falls in again on the west side - of the mount at the bounds of Preshute parish. Roman coins have been - found in shaping the mount; which was the keep of the later castle, - and now converted into a pretty spiral walk, on the top of which is an - octagonal summer-house represented<span class="sidenote">TAB. I.</span> Tab. I. This neighbouring village, - Preshute, has its name from the meadows the church stands in, which - are very low: in the windows upon a piece of glass is written, DNS - RICHARDUS HIC VICARIUS, who I believe lived formerly in a little house - at Marlborough, over-against the castle, now an ale-house, where his - name is cut in wood in the same old letters over the door.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Leucomagus.</div> - - <p>Great Bedwin I take to be the <em>Leucomagus</em> of Ravennas; for that - and the present name signify the same thing, viz. the white town, - the soil being chalk: he there places it just before Marlborough, - <em>cunetzione</em>. We saw near it the continuation of Wansdike.<span class="sidenote">TAB. LXIV.</span> This - town is an old corporation: in it the famous Dr. Tho. Willis, the - ornament of our faculty, was born. In the church lies the monument of a - knight cross-legged; on his shield, barry of six argent and gules, an - orle of martlets sable; over all three escallops of the first on a bend - of the third. Upon a stone in brass in the choir,</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza" lang="la"> - <div class="i0"><i>Bellocampus eram graja genetrice semerus</i></div> - <div class="i2"><i>Tres habui natos, est quibus una soror.</i></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p>Here lyeth the body of John Seymour, son and heyre of Sir John Seymour - and of Margery oon of the doughters of Henry Wentworth knyght, which - decesed the xv day of July the yer of our lord M. D. X. on whose soul - Ihu have mercy, and of your charity say a <i lang="la">pater nostr</i> and a <i lang="la">ave</i>.</p> - - <p><i lang="la">Hic jacet dns Thomas Dageson quondam vicarius istius ecclesie qui - obiit 7. die Decemb. A<sup>o</sup> dni.</i> M.D.I. <i lang="la">cujus anime propitietur - deus amen</i>. on a brass in the middle aile.</p> - - <p><i lang="la">Roger de Stocre chev. ici gycht deu de sa alme eyt merci.</i> in the - south transept.</p> - - <p>The town arms are, a man standing in a castle, with a sword in his - hand. Castle copse, south-east from the town about half a mile, as much - from Wansdike, containing about fourteen acres, seems the old Roman - castle. Howisdike I suppose a camp upon an eminence and in an angle - made by the Wansdike. They showed us a brass town gallon, from the - Winchester standard, given by my lord Nottingham. In the east window - of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">65</span> this church some time since was the picture of a priest with - two crutches, a cup in his hand, and a cann standing by him, with - this inscription, which Mr. le Neve Norroy gave me: he transcribed it - out of an old MS. now in the library of Holkham in Norfolk, formerly - Sir Ed. Coke’s book; and for its antiquity I think it not unworthy of - mentioning.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp73 mb2" id="i_064_1"> - <div class="plateno"><i>1</i></div> - <div><b>Rural Curiosity.</b></div> - <div class="small"><i>Marlborough Mount</i></div> - <img src="images/i_064_1.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="small"><i>Cascade at Wilton.</i></div> - <div><i>Dedicated to the Right Honorable the Lady Hartford.</i></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_064_2"> - <div class="plateno"><i>3</i></div> - <div class="fleft small">B. <i>S<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span> Peters.</i></div> - <div class="fright small" style="margin-right: 1em;">A. <i>the scite of the Roman Castrum</i></div> - <div><b><i>View of Lord</i> Hartfords House <i>at</i> Marlborough <i>29 Iun. 1723.</i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_064_2.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley del:</i></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_064_3"> - <div class="plateno"><i>64</i></div> - <div><b><i>View of</i> Great Bedwin & Wansdike <i>2 Iuly. - 1723.</i> <span class="smcap">Leucomagus.</span></b></div> - <img src="images/i_064_3.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div> - </figure> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry" lang="la"> - <div class="stanza antiqua"> - <div class="i0">G SU PERIS APELE VIKERE DE SET EGLISE</div> - <div class="i0">SU MA POTENTE SU APUE TOT EN TELE GYSE</div> - <div class="i0">MON HANAP AY EN POYNE E BEVEREI SANS FEINTISE</div> - <div class="i0">MON POT A MON DERER MISS E LA NOVELE GYISE</div> - <div class="i0">DE MON POT E MON HANAP SEREY JUSTICE</div> - <div class="i0">KE NUL NI BEYVE SANS NE Y AY M ATENTE MISE.</div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry" lang="la"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0"><i>G su Peris apele vikere de set eglise</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Su ma potente su apue tot en tele gyse</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Mon hanap ay en poyne e beverei sans feintise</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Mon pot a mon derer miss e la novele gyise</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>De mon pot e mon hanap serey justice</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Ke nul ni beyve sans ne y ay m atente mise.</i></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p>In modern French,</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry" lang="la"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0"><i>Je suis Peris appellé vicaire de cette eglise</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Sur ma potence suis appuié tout en tell guise</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Mon hanap enpoigne & boirai sans feintise</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Mon pot a mon derriere mis a la nouvelle guise</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>De mon pot & mon hanap serai justice</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Que nul ne boive sans que n’y ai m’autant mis.</i></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p>In English,</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0">I am Peris call’d, vicar of this church,</div> - <div class="i0">Upon my crutches leaning just in this wise;</div> - <div class="i0">My pouch in my fist, and I’ll drink without guile;</div> - <div class="i0">My pot at my back set after the new mode:</div> - <div class="i0">To my pot and my pouch I will have justice done,</div> - <div class="i0">For none shall drink without putting in as much again.</div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">We were entertained at Wilton, the noble seat of the great earl of - Pembroke; and deservedly may I style it the School of Athens. The - glories of this place I shall endeavour to rehearse in a separate - discourse.</p> - - <p>Crekelade, probably a Roman town upon the Thames; for from this a - very plain Roman road runs to Cirencester. Much has been the dispute - formerly about a fancied university in this place, and the little town - in its neighbourhood <em>Latin</em>, which it would be senseless only - to repeat. The word <em>Crekelade</em> is derived from the cray-fishes - in the river: <em>Lade</em> is no more than a water-course, but more - especially such a one as is made by art;<a id="FNanchor_48" href="#Footnote_48" class="fnanchor">[48]</a> and we here find the - river pent up for a long way together by factitious banks, in order - the better to supply their mills: so <em>Latin</em> is no more than - <em>ladeings</em>, or the meadows where these channels run. Ledencourt, - near Newent, Glocestershire, I suppose, acknowledges the like original; - and many <span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">66</span>more. The town of Lechelade falls under the same predicament: - <em>leche</em> signifies a watery place subject to inundations; as Leach, - a town near Boston before mentioned, anciently written <em>Leche</em>: - as Camden says of Northleach, p. 240. and Litchfield hence fetches its - etymology from the marshy bog that environs the church, rather than the - superstitious notion there current. Not far hence are two towns called - Sarney and Sarncote, from the Roman causeway; <em>sarn</em> in Welsh - importing a paved way. There is another upon the same road between - Cirencester and Glocester.</p> - - <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Corinium.</span> Dobunorum</div> - - <p>Cirencester was anciently the <em>Corinium</em> of the Romans, a great - and populous city, built upon the intersection of this road we have - been traveling, and the great Foss road going to the Bath: it was - inclosed with walls and a ditch of a vast compass, which I traced quite - round. Under the north-east side of the wall runs the river Churn, - whence the names of the town: the foundation of the wall is all along - visible; the ditch is so where that is quite erased.</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry" lang="la"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i6">————<i>sic omnia fatis</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>In pejus ruere ac retro sublapsa referri.</i><span class="smcap fright">Virg. G. i.</span></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">A great part of the ground comprehended within this circuit is now - pasture, corn-fields, or converted into gardens, beside the site of - the present town. Here they dig up antiquities every day, especially - in the gardens; and in the plain fields, the track of foundations of - houses and streets are evident enough. Here are found many Mosaic - pavements, rings, intaglia’s, and coins innumerable, especially in one - great garden called <em>lewis</em> grounds, which signifies in British - a palace, <em>llys</em>. I suppose it was the <em>prætorium</em>, or head - magistrate’s quarters. Large quantities of carved stones are carried - off yearly in carts, to mend the highways, besides what are useful in - building. A fine Mosaic pavement dug up here Sept. 1723. with many - coins. I bought a little head which has been broke off from a <i>basso - relievo</i>, and seems by the <em>tiara</em>, of a very odd shape, like - fortification work, to have been the genius of a city, or some of - the <i lang="la">deæ matres</i>, which are in old inscriptions, such like in - Gruter, p. 92. The gardener told me he had lately found a fine little - brass image, I suppose one of the <em>lares</em>; but, upon a diligent - scrutiny, his children had played it away. Mr. Richard Bishop, owner - of the garden, on a hillock near his house, dug up a vault sixteen - foot long and twelve broad, supported with square pillars of Roman - brick three foot and a half high; on it a strong floor of terras: there - are now several more vaults near it, on which grow cherry-trees like - the hanging gardens of Babylon. I suppose these the foundations of a - temple; for in the same place they found several stones of the shafts - of pillars six foot long, and bases of stone near as big in compass - as his summer-house adjoining (as he expressed himself): these, with - cornices very handsomely moulded and carved with modilions, and the - like ornaments, were converted into swine-troughs: some of the stones - of the bases were fastened together with cramps of iron, so that they - were forced to employ horses to draw them asunder; and they now lie - before the door of his house as a pavement: capitals of these pillars - were likewise found, and a crooked cramp of iron ten or twelve foot - long, which probably was for the architraves of a circular portico. - A Mosaic pavement near it, and intire, is now the floor of his - privy vault. Mr. Aubury in his MS. coll. says an hypocaust was here - discovered; and Mr. Tho. Pigot, fellow of Wadham, wrote a description - thereof. Sometimes they dig up little stones, as big as a shilling, - with stamps on them: I conjecture they are counterfeit dies to cast - money in.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_067_1"> - <div class="plateno"><i>32</i></div> - <div><b><i>The White Fryers in</i> Glocester <i>Aug. 24. 1721.</i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_067_1.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp:</i></div> - <div class="small"><b>Browne Willys <i>Ar. Reliquias sacras d. d. W<sup>s</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.4em;">.</span> Stukeley.</i></b></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>12·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <div class="smcap large"><b>Glevvm</b></div> - <img src="images/i_067_2.jpg" alt=""> - </figure> - - <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">67</span></p> - - <p>We saw a monumental inscription upon a stone at Mr. Isaac Tibbot’s, in - Castle-street, in very large letters four inches long:</p> - - <div class="center large"> - D <img class="iglyph" src="images/i_067.png" alt=""> M<br> - <span class="gesperrt2">IVLIAE CASTAE</span><br> - <span class="gesperrt2">CONIVGI</span> <img class="iglyph" src="images/i_067.png" alt=""> <span class="gesperrt2">VIX</span><br> - <span class="gesperrt2">ANN</span> <img class="iglyph" src="images/i_067.png" alt=""> XXXIII.</div> - - <p class="noindent">It was found at a place half a mile west of the town, upon the north - side of the Foss road, called <em>Quern</em> from the quarries of stone - thereabouts. Five such stones lay flatwise upon two walls in a row, - end to end; and underneath were the corpses of that family, as we - may suppose. He keeps Julia Casta’s skull in his summer-house; but - people have stole all her teeth out for <em>amulets</em> against the - ague. Another of the stones serves for a table in his garden: it is - handsomely squared, five foot long and three and a half broad, without - an inscription. Another of them is laid for a bridge over a channel - near the cross in Castle-street. There were but two of them which had - inscriptions: the other inscription perished, being unluckily exposed - to the wet in a frosty season: probably, of her husband. Several urns - have been found thereabouts, being a common burying place: I suppose - them buried here after christianity. In the church, which is a very - handsome building of the style of St. Mary’s at Cambridge, are a great - many ancient brass inscriptions and figures: the windows are full of - good painted glass: there is a fine lofty tower. Little of the abbey - is now left, beside two old gate-houses neither large nor good: the - circuit of it is bounded for a good way by the city walls. East of the - town about a a quarter of a mile, is a mount or barrow called Starbury, - where several gold Roman coins have been dug up, of about the time of - Julian, which we saw: some people ploughing in the field between it and - the town, south of the hill, took up a stone coffin with a body in it - covered with another stone. West of the town, behind my lord Bathurst’s - garden, is another mount, called Grismunds or Gurmonds, of which - several fables are told: probably raised by the Danes when they laid - siege to this place.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Glevum.</div> - - <p>Hence our journey lay by Stretton over the continuation of the Roman - road from Crekelade, which appears with a very high ridge and very - strait for eight miles, to Birdlip hill, prodigiously steep and rocky - to the north-west, till we came to Glocester, a colony of the Romans. - The old proverb, <span class="sidenote">TAB XXXII.</span>“As sure as God’s at Glocester,” surely meant the vast - number of churches and religious foundations here; for you can scarce - walk past ten doors but somewhat of that sort occurs. <span class="sidenote">TAB. XII. 2d Vol.</span>The western part - of the cathedral is old and mean; but from the tower, which is very - handsome, you have a most glorious prospect eastward through the choir - finely vaulted at top, and the Lady’s chapel, to the east window, which - is very magnificent: here, on the north side, lies that unfortunate - king, Edward II. and out of the abundance of pious offerings to his - remains, the religious built this choir: before the high altar in the - middle thereof lies the equally unfortunate prince Robert, eldest - son of William the Conqueror, after a miserable life: but he rests - quietly in his grave; which cannot be said of his younger brother, - Henry I. before spoken of at Reading abbey: he has a wooden tomb over - him, painted with his coats of arms, and upon it his effigies, in - Irish oak, cross-legged like a Jerusalem knight. The cloysters in this - cathedral are beautiful, beyond any thing I ever saw, in the style of - King’s-college chapel in Cambridge. Nothing could ever have made me so - much in love with Gothic architecture (as called); and I<span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">68</span> judge, for - a gallery, library, or the like, it is the best manner of building; - because the idea of it is taken from a walk of trees, whose branching - heads are curiously imitated by the roof. There are large remains of - several abbeys of black and white friers, &c. I saw this distich cut in - wood over an old door of a house:</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza antiqua"> - <div class="i0">Cum ruinosa domus quondam quam tunc renovavit</div> - <div class="i0">Monachus Urbanus Osborn John rite vocavit.</div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">This city abounds much with crosses and statues of the kings of - England, and has a handsome prospect of steeples, some without a - church. Here are several market-houses supported with pillars; among - the rest a very old one of stone, Gothic architecture, uncommon and - ancient, now turned into a cistern for water. A mile or two distant - from the city is a very pleasant hill, called Robin Hood’s: I suppose - it may have been the rendezvous of youth formerly to exercise - themselves in archery upon festivals, as now a walk for the citizens. - By this city, the <em>Glevum</em> of the Romans, the Ricning-street way - runs from the mouth of the Severn into Yorkshire. I have nothing new as - to its Roman antiquities; and since that is out of dispute, I hasten to - Worcester.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Branonium.</div> - - <p>It was anciently called <em>Branonium</em>, which the Welsh corrupted - into <em>Wrangon</em>, prefixing <em>Caer</em>, as was their method; and - thence our <em>Worcester</em>: it signifies the city <i lang="la">ad frontem - aquæ</i>. The commandery here, formerly belonging to St. John’s of - Jerusalem, is now possessed by the hospitable My. Wylde: it is a fine - old house of timber in the form of a court: the hall makes one side - thereof, roofed with Irish oak: the windows adorned with imagery and - coats armorial of stained glass: built for the reception of pilgrims: - it stands just without the south gate of the city in the London road, - where the heat of the famous battle happened between king Charles II. - and Oliver Cromwell. Digging in the garden they frequently find the - bones of the slain. Above, in the park, is to be seen a great work, - of four bastions, called the Royal Mount, whence a <em>vallum</em> - and ditch runs both ways to encompass this side of the city. Here I - suppose the storm began, when the Royalists were driven back into the - city with great slaughter; and the king escaped being made a prisoner - in the narrow street at this gate (as they say) by a loaded cart of - hay purposely overthrown; by that means he had time to retire at the - opposite gate to an old house called White Ladys, being formerly a - nunnery in possession of the family of Cookseys, where he left his - gloves and garters, which a descendant of that family, of the same - name, now keeps. The chapel of this nunnery is standing, and has some - painted saints upon the wall of one end. A mile and half above the - south gate, on the top of the hill, is the celebrated Perry wood, where - Oliver Cromwell’s army lay.</p> - - <div class="sidenote">TAB. XVIII.</div> - - <p>The collegiate church is stately enough: in it is buried the restless - king John; not where now his monument stands in the choir before the - high altar, but under a little stone before the altar of the eastermost - wall of the church; on each side him, upon the ground, lie the effigies - of the two holy bishops and his chief saints Wolstan and Oswald, from - whose vicinity he hoped to be safe from harm: the image of the king - likewise I suppose formerly lay here upon the ground, now elevated - upon a tomb in the choir as aforesaid. There is a large and handsome - stone chapel over the monument of prince Arthur, son of Henry VII. on - the south side of the high altar. The cloysters are very perfect, and - the chapter-house is large, supported, as to its arched roof, with - one umbilical pillar: it is now<span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">69</span> become a library well furnished, - and has a good many old manuscripts. There is a large old gate-house - standing, and near it the castle, with a very high artificial mount or - keep nigh the river. We met here with an odd instance of a prodigious - memory, in a person the powers of whose soul are run out (as we may - speak) intirely into that one; for otherwise his capacity is very weak: - if we name any passage in the whole Bible, he will immediately tell you - what book, chapter, and verse, it is in; a truly living concordance. - Here are a great many churches, and in good repair: one steeple is - octangular, another is remarkable for its lofty spire. A large bridge - of six arches over the beautiful Severn, enriched on both sides with - pleasant meadows. This is a large city, very populous and busy, and - affords several fine prospects, particularly from Perry wood. No doubt - but this was a Roman city; yet we could find no remains, but a place in - it called Sidbury, which seems to retain from its name some memorial of - that sort.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp70 mb4" id="i_068"> - <div class="plateno"><i>18</i></div> - <div class="bold"><i>King</i> Johns <i>Monument before the Altar in Worcester Choir.</i></div> - <img class="illowp50" src="images/i_068.jpg" alt=""> - <div> - <div class="col40 small"><i>Præhonorabili D<sup>no</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.6em;">.</span> Eduardo<br> - cultori & fautori</i></div> - <img class="illowp16" src="images/i_068a.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="col40 small"><i>D<sup>no</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.6em;">.</span> Harley bonarum Artium<br> - Tabula votiva.</i></div></div> - <div class="attl"><i>J. Pine sculp.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>W. Stukeley designat</i></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp70 mb4" id="i_069"> - <div class="plateno"><i>85</i></div> - <div><span class="large"><b>ARICONIVM</b></span><br> - <span class="small"><i>9<sup>th</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.5em;">.</span> Sept. 1721.</i></span></div> - <div class="small mt1 bbox" style="width: 60%;"> - <div class="inline left"><i>Tempus edax Rerum Tuq<sub>ue</sub> Invidiosa Vetustas<br> - Omnia destruitis. Vitiataq<sub>ue</sub> dentibus Ævi<br> - Paulatim lenta consumitis Omnia Morte.</i><br><span class="smcap" style="margin-left: 19em;">Ov.</span></div> - </div> - <div class="large"><b><i>Kenchester.</i></b></div> - <div class="small mb2"><i>The City contains 21 Acres.</i></div> - <img src="images/i_069.jpg" alt=""> - <div>Jacobo Hill Ar. J. C. Vicinæ Civitatis formam consecrat W. Stukeley.</div> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - </figure> - - <p>A Roman road goes hence along the river to Upton, where antiquities - are dug up, (I take it for <span class="sidenote smcap">Ypocessa.</span><em>Ypocessa</em> of Ravennas) and so to - Tewksbury, where it meets with the Ricning-street way. A little below - Worcester a river called Teme falls into the Severn; and many other - synonymous rivers there are in England, beside the great Thames, - which shows it a common name to rivers in the old Celtic language, - and the same with the Greek Ποταμος, the first syllable cut off. A - little above, a river called Saltwarp falls into the Severn from - Droitwich, a Roman town, which occurs too in Ravennas under the name - of <span class="sidenote smcap">Salinis.</span><em>Salinis</em>; and they still make salt at the place. From hence - I made an excursion to <span class="sidenote smcap">Malvern.</span>Great Malvern, a considerable priory at the - bottom of a prodigious hill of that name: the church is very large and - beautiful, with admirable painted glass in all the windows, and several - old monuments: upon a stone now in the body of the church, but taken - from without the south side in a garden, which was anciently the south - wing, this.</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry" lang="la"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0">PHILOSOPHVS DIGNVS BONVS ASTROLOGVS LOTHERING,</div> - <div class="i0">VIR PIVS AC HVMILIS MONACHVS PRIOR HVIVS OVILIS</div> - <div class="i0">HAC IACET IN CISTA GEOMETRICVS AC ABACISTA</div> - <div class="i0">DOCTOR WALCHERVS FLET PLEBS DOLET VNDIQ. CLERVS</div> - <div class="i0">HVIC LVX PRIMA MORI DEDIT OCTOBRIS SENIORI</div> - <div class="i0">VIVAT UT IN CELIS EXORET QVISQ. FIDELIS M. C. XXXV.<a id="FNanchor_49" href="#Footnote_49" class="fnanchor">[49]</a></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">there is a carved stone image, by the south wall of the choir, of - very rude and ancient workmanship: it is a knight covered with mail - and his surcoat; in his right hand a halbert like a pick-axe, in his - left a round target. Here are many coats of arms and cognizances upon - a glazed sort of brick; such I have seen at other places. A handsome - gate-house is left, and from the houses in the town you command a very - noble prospect over Worcester, as far as Edghill, as they tell us: it - is thought the Malvern has metals in its bowels. We diverted ourselves, - as we rode through Dean forest, with a house after the primitive style, - built round an oak tree, whose branches are still green with leaves. - Vide Vitruv. L. II. C. I. Two thousand years ago, one would have - suspected it to be a Druid’s.</p> - - <p>The city of Hereford probably sprung up from the ruin of the Roman - <span class="sidenote smcap">Ariconium.</span><em>Ariconium</em>, now Kenchester, three miles off, higher up the - river Wye, but not very near it; which may be a reason for its decay. - <span class="sidenote">TAB. LXXXV.</span>Ariconium stands upon a little brook called the Ine, which thence - encompassing the walls of Hereford falls into the Wye. Two great - Roman ways here cross each other: one called the Port-way comes - from <em>Bullæum</em>, now Buelt, in Radnorshire; passing eastward - by Kenchester, through Stretton, over the <span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">70</span>river Lug, to Stretton - Grantham upon the Frome, it goes to Worcester: the other road comes - from the south, and Abergavenny, <em>Gobannium</em>, by Old town formerly - <em>Blescium</em>; so by Dowre a-cross the Golden vale and Archenfield - to the river Wye, which it passes at Eaton, where is a Roman camp for - security, and a bridge for convenience of the passage: thence it goes - to Kenchester, so northwards by Stretford: this Archenfield seems to - retain the name of Ariconium. Nothing remaining of its splendour, but - a piece of a temple probably, with a niche which is five foot high - and three broad within, built of Roman brick, stone, and indissoluble - mortar: the figure of it is in the fore-mentioned plate. There are - many large foundations near it. A very fine Mosaic floor a few years - ago was found intire, soon torn to pieces by the ignorant vulgar. - I took up some remaining stones of different colours, and several - bits of fine potters ware of red earth. Mr. Aubury in his manuscript - notes says, anno 1670, old Roman buildings of brick were discovered - under-ground, on which oaks grew: the bricks are of two sorts; some - equilaterally square, seven or eight inches, and one inch thick; some - two foot square, and three inches thick. A bath was here found by Sir - John Hoskyns about seven foot square: the pipes of lead intire; those - of brick were a foot long, three inches square, let artificially one - into another: over these I suppose was a pavement. This is an excellent - invention for heating a room, and might well be introduced among us - in winter time. In another place is a hollow, where burnt wheat has - been taken up: some time since colonel Dantsey sent a little box full - of it to the Antiquarian Society. All around the city you may easily - trace the walls, some stones being left every where, though overgrown - by hedges and timber trees. The ground of the city is higher than the - level of the circumjacent country. There appears no sign of a foss - or ditch around it. The site of the place is a gentle eminence of a - squarish form; the earth black and rich, overgrown with brambles, - oak trees, full of stones, foundations, and cavities where they have - been digging. Many coins and the like have been found. Mr. Ja. Hill, - J. C. has many coins found here, some of which he gave to the said - society. Colonel Dantsey has paved a cellar with square bricks dug - up here: my lord Coningsby has judiciously adorned the floor of his - evidence-room with them. This city is overlooked and sheltered towards - the north with a <span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Credonhill.</span> Br. <i>camp</i>.</span>prodigious mountain of steep ascent crowned at the - top with a vast camp, which ingirdles its whole <em>apex</em> with works - altogether inaccessible: it is called Credon hill, seemingly British: - if you will take the pains to climb it, you are presented with a - most glorious and extensive prospect, as far as St. Michael’s mount - in Monmouthshire; bipartite at top, Parnassus-like, and of especial - fame and resort among the zealots of the Roman creed, who think this - holy hill was sent hither by St. Patrick out of Ireland, and has - wonderful efficacy in several cases. On the other hand you see the vast - black mountain separating Brecknockshire from this county: the city - Ariconium underneath appears like a little copse. On the other side - of the Wye you see Dinder hill, whereon is a Roman camp: and upon the - Lug are <span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Sutton walls.</span> Ro. <i>camp</i>.</span>Sutton walls, another vast Roman camp upon a hill overtopping - a beautiful vale, the royal mansion of the most potent king Offa, - but most notorious for the execrable murder of young king Ethelbert, - allured thither under pretext of courting his daughter, and buried in - the adjacent church of Marden, situate in a marsh by the river side: - hence his body was afterwards conveyed to Hereford and enshrined; but - the particular place we cannot find. I suppose this martyr’s merits - were obliterated by the succeeding saint,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">71</span> Cantilupe, the great - miracle-monger on this side the kingdom, as his tutor and namesake - Thomas Becket was in Kent.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Hereford.</div> - - <p>In the north wing of the cathedral of Hereford is the shrine where - Cantilupe was buried, and which wing he himself built: his picture - is painted on the wall: all around are the marks of hooks where the - banners, lamps, reliques, and the like presents, were hung up in his - honour; and, no doubt, vast were the riches and splendor which filled - this place; and it is well guarded and barricadoed to prevent thieves - from making free with his superfluities: the shrine is of stone, carved - round with knights in armour; for what reason I know not, unless - they were his life-guard. I saw a book, printed at St. Omar’s, of no - little bulk, which contained an account of his miracles. The church - is very old and stately, the roof, ailes, and chapel, have been added - to the more ancient part by succeeding bishops, as also the towers, - cloysters, &c. The most beautiful chapter-house of a decagonal form, - and having an umbilical pillar, was destroyed in the civil wars. I - saw its poor remains, whence I endeavoured to restore the whole in - drawing as well as I could, from the symmetry and manner of the fabric, - which I guess to be about Henry the Sixth’s time: there are about four - windows now standing, and the springing of the stone arches between, of - fine rib-work, which composed the roof; of that sort of architecture - wherewith King’s-college chapel at Cambridge is built: two windows were - pulled down, a very little while ago, by bishop Bisse, which he used - in new fitting up the episcopal palace: under the windows in every - compartment was painted a king, bishop, saint, virgin, or the like; - some I found distinct enough, though so long exposed to the weather. - Here are the greatest number of monuments of the bishops I ever saw, - many valuable brasses and tombs, one of Sir Richard Penbrug, knight of - the garter, which I drew out for Mr. Anstis: in our Lady’s chapel, now - the library, a fine brass of Isabella the wife of Richard Delamare, ob. - 1421. Between the cathedral and episcopal palace is a most venerable - pile, exceeding it in date, as I conjecture from its manner of - composure; built intirely of stone, roofed with stone: it consists of - two chapels, one above the other: the ground-plot is a perfect square, - beside the portico and choir: four pillars in the middle, with arches - every way, form the whole: the portico seems to have a grandeur in - imitation of Roman works, made of many arches retiring inwards: two - pillars on each side consist of single stones: the lowermost chapel, - which is some steps under ground, is dedicated to St. Catharine, the - upper to St. Magdalen, and has several pillars against the wall, made - of single stones, and an odd eight-square cupola upon the four middle - pillars: there have been much paintings upon the walls: the arched roof - is turned very artfully, and seems to have a taste of that kind of - architecture used in the declension of the Roman empire.</p> - - <p>The city of Hereford stands upon a fine gravel, encompassed with - springs and rivulets, as well as strong walls, towers, and lunettes; - all which, with the embattlements, are pretty perfect, and enabled them - to withstand a most vigorous siege of the Scots army under general - Lesley. The castle was a noble work, built by one of the Edwards - before the Conquest, strongly walled about, and ditched: there is - a very lofty artificial keep, walled once at top, having a well in - it faced with good stone: by the side of the ditch arose a spring, - which superstition consecrated to St. Ethelbert: there is a handsome - old stone arch erected over it. Without the walls are the ruins of - Black Friers monastery, and a pretty stone cross intire; round which - originally were the cloysters built, as now the cloysters of the - cathedral<span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">72</span> inclose another such. These crosses were in the nature of - a pulpit, whence a monk preached to the people <em>sub dio</em>, as is - now practised once a year in the cloysters of some colleges in the - universities; and I suppose Paul’s cross in London was somewhat of this - sort. There was likewise an opulent priory, dedicated to our country - saint, Guthlac of Crowland, now intirely ruined: the situation of it in - a marshy place best suited him. White Friers on the other side the town - is intirely ruined: a gate-house and several other parts were seen by - many now living. All these religious conventions (as tradition goes) - had subterraneous passages into the city under the ditch, that the holy - fraternities might retire from the fury of war, upon occasion.</p> - - <p>In our way from Hereford to Leominster we ascended with some difficulty - the mighty Dynmaur hill, the meaning of which appellation is the great - hill: it makes us some amends for the tediousness of climbing, by the - extensive and pleasant prospect it affords us from its woody crest - commanding a vast horizon.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Leominster.</div> - - <p>Leominster is a town of brisk trade in manufactures of their admirable - wool, in hat-making, leather, and many others; it lies in a valley - luxuriant above measure. Three rivers of very swift current go - through the town, besides others very near: nor will the industrious - inhabitants suffer the water-nymphs that preside over the streams to be - idle: for with mills, and machinery of various contrivance, they make - them subservient to many uses in the way of their trades. Here was a - considerable priory on the north-side of the church, two ailes of which - are very ancient, and I suppose belonged to the priory: two other ailes - of more lightsome work have been added. The mayor, who invited us to - attend him thither, had a long black <em>caduceus</em> to walk withall, - tipped with silver. <span class="sidenote">TAB. XXII.</span>There are some poor remains of the priory, chiefly - a little chapel, which I imagine belonged to the prior’s family: - underneath it runs a pretty rivulet, which used to grind his corn, - now converted to a fulling-mill: near are very large ponds for fish, - to furnish the monks on fasting days. There was a fine gate-house, - pulled down not long since, near the Ambry close, denominated from the - place (Almery) in which they gave their scraps away to poor people at - the gate, as I have observed at several other religious houses: this - is reckoned a great argument of their charity, whilst idle folks lost - their time in waiting for it. Round the cross built of timber I saw - this inscription, <i lang="la">Vive deo gratus, toti mundo tumulatus, crimine - mundatus, semper transire paratus</i>, and some more stuff of that - sort. In this town the soil is luxuriant above measure: trees of all - sorts flourish prodigiously: we were surprised at the extravagant bulk - of plants, leaves of dock as big as an ordinary tea-table, comfry - leaves as long as my arm. Mr. Gale and I disputed a good while about - borage quite grown out of cognizance.</p> - - <p>We were entertained by my lord Coningsby at his seat of Hampton-court, - three miles off: at dinner time, one of the ancient bards in an - adjacent room played to us upon the harp, and at proper intervals threw - in many notes of his voice, with a swelling thrill, after a surprising - manner, much in the tone of a flute. This is a fine seat, built by our - countryman Harry of Bolingbroke, afterwards Henry the Fourth: it is, - castle like, situate in a valley, upon a rapid river under coverture - of Dynmaur: the gardens very pleasant, (the finest greens I ever saw) - terminated by vast woods covering all the sloping side of the hill; - whose wavy tops, when agitated by the wind, entertain the eye with a - most agreeable spectacle, and verdant theatric concavity, as high, - and as far, as you can well see. Here is a great command<span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">73</span> of water, - on all sides of the house, for fountains, basons, canals: within are - excellent pictures of the earl’s ancestors, and others, by the best - hands; Holbein, Dobson, Van Dyke, Sir P. Lely, &c. there is an original - of the founder, Henry the Fourth, of queen Elizabeth, of the duchess - of Portsmouth, &c. The windows of the chapel are well painted, some - images of the Coningsbys: here are two new stone stair-cases after a - geometrical method, with a view, I suppose, of security from fire: the - record-room is at top of a tower arched with stone, paved with Roman - brick; an iron door. From the top of the house goes a stair-case, - which they say has a subterraneous conveyance into Dynmaur wood; - which was the method of ancient times to escape the last extremity of - a siege. After dinner my lord did us the honour to ride out with us - into the park, which for beauty, diversity, and use, is very fine: it - is eight miles in circumference, and has all the variety of scenes - you can imagine; about 1200 head of deer in it: there are extensive - prospects, on one side reaching into Wiltshire; on another, over the - Welsh mountains; lawns, groves, canals, hills and plains. There is a - pool three quarters of a mile long, very broad, included between two - great woods: the dam that forms it across a valley, cost 800l. and - was made in a fortnight by 200 hands. There is a new river cut quite - through the park, the channel of which for a long way together is - hewn out of the rock: this stream enriches with derivative channels - vast tracts of land that before was barren. Here are new gardens and - canals laid out, and new plantations of timber in proper places to - complete its pleasures; warrens, decoys, sheep-walks, pastures for - cattle, and the like, intirely supply the house with all necessaries - and conveniences, without recourse to a market. His lordship showed us - in his study four or five vast books in manuscript, being transcripts - out of the record-offices, relating to his manors, royalties, estates - and muniments, which cost him 500l. in writing and fees: many of his - galleries and passages are adorned with the genealogy of his family, - their pictures, arms, grants, history, &c. The Roman road from - Ariconium to Uriconium lies west of Lemster by Stretford; then passes - over the Arrow, the Oney, the Lug; so through Biriton, two miles north - of Lemster, where they dig up the pavement of it, as it runs through - the grounds, made of squarish rag-stone.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp68 mb4" id="i_072"> - <div class="plateno"><i>22</i></div> - <div><span class="smcap large"><b>Religiou<i>s</i> Ruin<i>s</i></b></span></div> - <img src="images/i_072a.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="small"><i>Remnant of the Priory of Leominster Sep. 14. 1722.</i></div> - <img src="images/i_072b.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="small"><i>Black Fryers in Glocester.<br><span class="small">Aug. 24. 1721.</span></i></div> - <img src="images/i_072c.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div> - <div class="small">& Nobilissimo Thomæ Comiti de Coningsby DD.</div> - </figure> - - <p class="clear"><span class="sidenote smcap">Ludlow.</span>Our next expedition was to Ludlow, a place of fame and antiquity, the - residence of the lords presidents of Wales under the prince. In the - way hither we found the <i>euonymus pannonicus</i> in the hedges. This - town is walled quite round, and pretty strong, having five gates, - situate upon a hill-top, running from south-east with an ascent towards - north-west, on which, precipitous to the north and west, stands the - castle. On the south side runs the Teme, fettered with numerous dams - across, in nature of cataracts; by which means abundance of mills are - turned: the superfluous water pours over them, cascade-like, with a - mighty noise. Here is a very good church and handsome tower, with a - pleasant ring of six bells in the cross thereof: the windows are full - of painted glass pretty intire: there are some old monuments of the - lords presidents, &c. and an inscription upon the north wall of the - choir relating to prince Arthur, who died here: his bowels were buried - in this place: one told me they took up his heart not long since in a - leaden box. In the eastern angle of the choir is a closet, anciently - called the <em>God-house</em>, where the priests locked up their roods, - wafers, and such things: it has a window strongly barred outward. This - church is consecrated to St Laurence: and in the market-place is an - hexagonal cistern, or conduit, like a cross; on the top of which is a - long stone cross, bearing a niche with an image of that saint in it. - West of the church was a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">74</span> college, now converted to a dwelling-house, - whose owner showed us a pretty collection of pictures, one by Holben. - There was a rich priory out of the town on the north side; small ruins - now to be seen, except a little adjoining church once belonging to it: - about the same place an arched gate-way went cross the street, but - now demolished. The <span class="sidenote">TAB. IV. V.</span>greatest rarity of Ludlow is the noble and strong - castle and palace, placed on the north-west angle of the town upon a - rock, commanding a delightful prospect northward; but on the west, - where runs the river, it is overlooked by a high hill. It is strongly - environed by embattled walls of great height and thickness, with - towers at convenient distances: that half which is within the walls - of the town is secured moreover with a deep ditch; the other founded - on the solid rock. It is divided into two separate parts; the castle, - properly so speaking, wherein the palace and lodgings; and the green, - or out-work, what I suppose they call the Barbican: the first is in - the strongest or north-west corner, and has likewise walls and ditch - hewn out of the rock towards the green: this was the residence of the - lords presidents: it was a noble structure, but now, alas! only groans - out with its last breath the glories of its ancient state. A chapel - here has abundance of coats of arms upon the panels; so has the hall, - together with lances, spears, firelocks and old armour; but the present - inhabitants live upon the sale of the timber, stone, iron, and other - materials and furniture, which dwindles away insensibly. Here died - prince Arthur. The green takes in a large compass of ground, wherein - was formerly the court of judicature and records, the stables, garden, - bowling-green and other offices; all which now lie in ruins, or are let - out at rack-rents to those that pilfer what they can: over several of - the stable-doors are queen Elizabeth’s arms, the earls of Pembroke’s, - and others.</p> - - <p>Hence we went along the river Teme to Tenbury. In a niche in the - chancel is a stone, a yard long, of a child of lord Arundel’s of - Sutton-house, as they say, dressed like a knight, cross-legged: another - knight cross-legged under the south wall of the church; on his shield - a chevron between three stars pierced. In the meadow, upon the river, - a <em>tumulus</em> covered with old oaks, called Castle-mead bower, or burrow.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Bewdley.</div> - - <p>Bewdley is a pleasant town by sweet meadows upon the Severn, which is - the most delightful river I have seen. Here, upon a hill over-looking - the town, is Tickenhall, built by Henry VII. for his son prince - Arthur; part of the old palace is standing, of timber-work: here was - a park too, part of Wire forest. This is a thriving town. A mile off - is Ribsford, the seat of the lord Herbert of Cherbury, pleasantly - encompassed with woods. Here is a good picture of William I. earl - of Pembroke: the ends of the hills toward the river are generally - rocks. Blackston hill has an hermitage cut out of it, <span class="sidenote">TAB. XIII. XIV.</span>with a chapel - and several apartments, which I have represented in prospect and - ground-plot: near it is a pretty rock upon the edge of the water, - covered with Nature’s beautiful canopy of oaks and many curious - plants: near the water, upon the rock, <em>liver-wort</em> grows - plentifully. They dig up coal hereabouts, about twelve yards under - ground. Kederminster is but two miles off: in the church a cross-legged - monument of Sir Tho. Acton. In Wulverhampton church are several old - monuments; a brass statue of Sir Richard Leveson, who fought the - Spaniards under Sir Francis Drake: there is a very old stone pulpit, - and a very old stone cross in the church-yard. Was I to chuse a country - residence for health and pleasure, it would be undoubtedly on the west - side of the island, not far from this river, and where it is most - distant from the sea; for natural reasons, which I need not mention to you.</p> - - <p class="right">Bewdley, 17 Sept. 1721.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp66 mb4" id="i_074_1"> - <div class="plateno"><i>4</i></div> - <div><b><i>The North Prospect of Ludlow Castle.</i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_074_1.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>I. Harris Sculp.</i></div> - <div><i>The Ichnography of Ludlow Castle.</i></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb3" id="i_074_2"> - <div class="plateno"><i>5</i></div> - <div class="large bold"><i>The West prospect of Ludlow Castle. Sep. 16. 1721.</i></div> - <img src="images/i_074_2.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="small">Robto Cornwall Barr<sup>tto</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.6em;">.</span> d.d. <i>W. Stukeley</i></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_074_3"> - <div class="plateno"><i>13</i></div> - <div><b><i>View of</i> Blackston Cave. <i>River Severn & L<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span> - Herberts house near</i> Bewdley <i>Sep. 23. 1721</i>.</b></div> - <img src="images/i_074_3.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp:</i></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp68 mb4" id="i_074_4"> - <div class="plateno"><i>14</i></div> - <div class="large bold">HERMITAGES.</div> - <div><i>The Groundplot & Section of an Hermitage near Bervdley.</i></div> - <img src="images/i_074_4.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>W Stukeley Del</i></div> - <div class="small"><i>The Hermitage at Dale Abby</i></div> - </figure> - - <div class="chapter"> - <span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">75</span> - <hr class="full thick"> - <hr class="full mt0"> - <h2 class="nobreak" id="ITER_ROMANUM"><span class="gesperrt2">ITER ROMANUM</span>. V.</h2> - </div> - - <hr class="full"> - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry" lang="la"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0"><i>Salve magna parens frugum Britanica tellus,</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Magna virum! tibi res antiquæ laudis & artis</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Ingredior. Sanctos ausus recludere fontes,</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Antiquum repeto Romana per oppida cursum.</i> <span class="smcap fright">Virg.</span></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Nam quid Britannum cœlum differre putamus.</i> <span class="smcap fright">Lucret. vi.</span></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - <hr class="full"> - - <div class="center bold mt3 lh1"><i>To my Lord</i><span class="gesperrt1"> WINCHELSEA</span>.</div> - - <p class="drop-cap">THE journey I here present your lordship is intirely Roman; for I went - from London full northward to the banks of the Humber, upon the famous - Hermen-street road, passing through Lincoln: then coasting about a - little, at Lincoln again I took the Foss way to its intersection of the - Watling-street in Warwickshire: upon that I returned back to London, - and pursued it to the sea-coasts of Kent: likewise some part of the - Icening-street, as it crosses the others, where it lay not too far - out of my main route, was the subject of my enquiry: so that in this - account is somewhat of all these four great roads of Britain, which our - old monkish writers make a considerable harangue about, but are scarce - able fully to distinguish them, and of the reason of their names say - but little to our satisfaction: but the ways themselves, as drawn quite - a-cross the island in different directions, are sufficiently manifest - to a traveller of common sagacity. Though my discoveries herein are - mean enough, yet I reckon this an happy <em>æra</em> of my life, because, - the very day before I undertook it, I had the good fortune to be - known to your lordship, and at the end of it enjoyed the pleasurable - repose of your delightful seat at Eastwel, but what is more, your own - conversation: since then your many favours, like all other felicities - in life, give me uneasiness in the midst of joy, as sensible of my own - little merit. I have no hope indeed of retaliating; and I know that - great minds like yours imitate Providence, expecting no return from its - beneficiaries: but it is consentaneous to human nature to endeavour at - it, and offer tokens of gratitude, however unequal. The delight you - take in rescuing the monuments of our ancestors, your indefatigable - zeal in collecting them, your exquisite knowledge in the Greek, Roman, - and British antiquities, and especially your great love for those of - your own country, which you continually commit to writing in your - private commentaries, add a reputation to these studies, and make the - Muses hope for a sunshine, when men of your lordship’s noble birth - entertain them with that familiarity and condescension which was one - great glory of the Augustan age.</p> - - <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">76</span></p> - - <div class="sidenote">Roman <em>roads</em>.</div> - - <p>For arts military and civil, that became a most wise government, the - Romans beyond compare exceeded all nations; but in their roads they - have exceeded themselves: nothing but the highest pitch of good sense - and public spirit could prompt them to so immense a labour: it is - altogether astonishing to consider how they begirt the whole globe,<a id="FNanchor_50" href="#Footnote_50" class="fnanchor">[50]</a> - as it were, with new meridians and great circles all manner of ways; as - one says,</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry" lang="la"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0"><i>Magnorum fuerat solers hæc cura Quiritum</i></div> - <div class="i2"><i>Constratas passim concelebrare vias.</i></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">As well as use, they studied eternity in all their works, just opposite - to our present narrow souls, who say, It will serve our time well - enough. For this reason they made few bridges, as liable to decay; - but fords were laid with great skill and labour, many of which remain - firm to this day without any reparation. No doubt but the Romans - gave names to these roads from the commanders under whose government - and direction they were laid out, as was their custom elsewhere: but - because they generally held their posts here but for a short time, and - perhaps scarce any finished one road intirely; therefore, whilst each - endeavoured to stamp his own name upon them, so it fell out that they - were all forgotten. The present appellatives seem to be derived either - from the British or Saxon: William the Conqueror calls them <i>Chemini - majores</i> in confirming the laws of St. Edward about these four ways. - All misdemeanours committed upon them were decided by the king himself. - Though there was no need of paving or raising a bank in some places, - yet it was done for a perpetual direction; and every where I suppose - stones were set at a mile’s distance, many of which are still left. - Of these four celebrated ways, the Foss and Icening-street traverse - the kingdom from south-west to north-east, parallel to one another: - the Watling-street crossed them quite the contrary way, with an equal - obliquity: the Hermen-street passed directly north and south: and - besides these are very many more. I purpose not to give a full history - of them here, any farther than I travel upon them, reserving that till - I am better able.</p> - - <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Hermen-street.</span></div> - - <p>Somewhat on the Hermen-street is said already in my first letter - about Lincolnshire, where it divides itself into two, which we may - call the old and the new branch. <span class="sidenote">TAB. LVI.</span>Here I design to search it up to - its fountain-head. As to its name, we have no reason to seek any - farther than the Saxon language, where <em>Here</em> signifies an army; - <em>Hereman</em>, a soldier or warriour:<a id="FNanchor_51" href="#Footnote_51" class="fnanchor">[51]</a> the Hermen-street then is - the military street, in the same propriety the Romans used it. It - begins at Newhaven, at the mouth of the river Ouse in Sussex, and - passes on the west side the river through Radmil, probably taking its - name thence; so through Lewis by Isfield: then it seems to pass over - the river at Sharnbridge, as we may guess by its name, and so proceeds - to East Grinsted, but I suppose lost in passing through the great - woods: then through Surrey it goes by Stane-street, Croydon, Stretham, - and, by its pointing, we may suppose was designed originally to pass - the Thames at the ferry called Stangate by Lambeth, where it coincides - with the Watling-street. Of this I can say nothing yet, having not - travelled it. There I apprehend the road went before London became - very considerable; but when the majesty of the place suddenly arose to - great height, this road, and all others directed this way, deflected a - little from their primitive intention, <span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">77</span>to salute the <em>Augusta</em> - of Britain, destined to be the <i lang="la">altera Roma</i>; and this has - rendered them all obscure near the city. It is generally thought the - Hermen-street goes hence through Bishopsgate, and along the northern - road; but I apprehend that to be of much later standing than the - original one, which goes more on the west. By the quotation I mentioned - in my first letter, when upon this road, out of Mr. Gale’s Itinerary, - of Lowlsworth near Bishopsgate, it seems as if it was done in Lollius - Urbicus his time. The original one perhaps passes through unfrequented - ways near Enfield and Hermen-street, seeming to retain the old name: on - the eastern side of Enfield chace, by Bush hill, is a circular <span class="sidenote">Br. <i>camp.</i></span>British - camp upon an eminence declining south-west; but our ancient road - appears upon a common on this side of Hertford by Ball’s park, and so - passes the river below Hertford; then goes through Ware park, and falls - into the present road on this side Wadesmill,<a id="FNanchor_52" href="#Footnote_52" class="fnanchor">[52]</a> and so to Royston. - Here must have been several stations upon it, but I see no hope of ever - retrieving their names: that Hertford is one is reasonable to think, it - having been ever in the royal demesne, and passing a river at a proper - distance from London: but in the assignment of <em>Durocobrovis</em> - here, I take leave to dissent from Camden and other learned men; it - by no means answers the distances in the Itinerary, or the import of - the name; the Red Ford, or the Ford of Harts, are fancies without - foundation: either <i lang="la">trajectus militaris</i> is the meaning, or it is - the passage of the river Ard, now the Beane: Ardley at the spring-head - of it: <em>ardh</em> in British is <em>altus</em>.</p> - - <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Icening-street.</span></div> - - <p>At Royston the Icening-street crosses the Hermen-street, coming from - Dunstable going into Suffolk: this about Baldock appears but like a - fieldway, and scarce the breadth of a coach, the farmers on both sides - industriously ploughing it up: between Baldock and Icleford it goes - through an intrenchment, taking in the top of a hill of good compass, - but of no great elevation: it consists of a <em>vallum</em> only, - and such a thing as I take to be properly the remains of a British - <em>oppidum</em>: it is called <span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Wilbury.</span> Br.</span>Wilbury hill, and is said to have been - woody not intirely beyond memory: this street, quite to the Thames in - Oxfordshire, goes at the bottom of a continued ridge of hills called - the Chiltern, being chalk, the natural as well as civil boundaries - between the counties of Hertford and Bedford, very steep northward. - Ickleford retains the name of the street, which at this place passes a - rivulet with a stoney ford wanting reparation. Near Periton church has - been a castle of Saxon or Norman times, with a keep. These high chalk - hills, having a fine prospect northward, are covered with a beautiful - turf like the Wiltshire downs, and have such like barrows here and - there, and indeed are but a continuation of them quite a-cross the - kingdom. Near Hexton is a square <span class="sidenote">Ro. <i>camp.</i></span>Roman camp upon a <em>lingula</em>, or - promontory, just big enough for the purpose: it is very steep quite - round, except at a narrow slip where the entrance is; double ditched, - and very <span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">78</span>strong, but land-locked with hills every way, except to - the north-east, and that way has a good prospect: under it is a fine - spring: it seems made by the Romans when they were masters of all the - country on this side, and extending their arms northward. On High downs - is a pleasant house by a wood, where is a place called Chapel close: in - this wood are barrows and dikes, perhaps of British original. Liliho - is a fine plot of ground upon a hill steep to the north-west, where a - horse-race is kept: from under it goes the Icening-street by Stretley - to Dunstable. North of Baldoc we visited the camp by Ashwel, taken - notice of in Camden, called <span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Harbury Banks.</span> Br.</span>Harbury banks: it is of a theatrical form, - consisting wholly of an <em>agger</em>: though Roman coins have been - found in it, I am inclinable to think it is earlier than their times. - Between Calcot and Henxworth, two miles off, several Roman antiquities - have been dug up this year; many in the custody of my friend Simon - Degg, esq; he gave me this account of it: some workmen, digging gravel - for the repair of the great northern road, struck upon some earthen - vessels, or large urns, full of burnt bones and ashes, but rotten: - near them a human skeleton, with the head towards the south-east, the - feet north-west: several bodies were found in this manner not above a - foot under the surface of the earth, and with urns great or small near - them, and <em>pateras</em> of fine red earth, some with the impression - of the maker on the bottom: there were likewise glass lachrymatories, - <em>ampullas</em>, a <em>fibula</em> of brass, six small glass rings, two - long glass beads of a green colour, and other fragments.</p> - - <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Salinæ.</span></div> - - <p>Northward still upon a high sandy hill, by the bank of the river Ivel, - is a Roman camp called Chesterton: under it lies the town called - Sandy, or Salndy, the <em>Salinæ</em> of the Romans in Ptolemy, where - great quantities of Roman and British antiquities have been found, - and immense numbers of coins, once a brass <em>Otho</em>, vases, urns, - lachrymatories, lamps. Mr. Degg has a cornelian intaglia, and a British - gold coin dug up here, <em>Tascio</em> upon it. Thomas Bromsal esq. has - a fine silver <em>Cunobelin</em> found here, of elegant work; others of - Titus, Agrippina, Trajan, Hadrian, Augustus, Antoninus Pius, Faustina, - Constantius Chlorus, Constantinus Magnus, Carausius, Alectus, Tetricus, - and many more.<a id="FNanchor_53" href="#Footnote_53" class="fnanchor">[53]</a> His great grandfather, high-sheriff of this county, - preserved the invaluable Cottonian library from plunder in the time of - the commonwealth, whilst it was at Stratton in this county, about anno - 1650. The soil here is sand, perfectly like that on the sea shore. I - imagine a Roman road passed by this place westward from Grantchester by Cambridge.</p> - - <p>Return we to Royston again. Going upon the Icening-street the other - way, just upon the edge of Cambridgeshire, we come to Chesterford upon - the river going to Cambridge, near Icleton and Strethal. <span class="sidenote smcap">Camboritum.</span>In July, 1719, - I discovered the <em>vestigia</em> of a Roman city here: the foundation - of the walls is very apparent quite round, though level with the - ground, including a space of about fifty acres: <span class="sidenote">TAB. LIX.</span>great part of it serves - for a causeway to the public Cambridge road from London: the Crown inn - is built upon it:<a id="FNanchor_54" href="#Footnote_54" class="fnanchor">[54]</a> the rest is made use of by the countrymen for - their carriages to and fro in the fields: the earth is still high on - both sides of it: in one part they have been long digging this wall up - for materials in building and mending the roads: there I measured its - breadth twelve foot, and remarked its <span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">79</span>composition of rag stone, - flints and Roman brick: in a little cottage hard by, the parlour is - paved with bricks; they are fourteen inches and an half long, and nine - broad. In the north-west end of the city,<a id="FNanchor_55" href="#Footnote_55" class="fnanchor">[55]</a> the people promised to - show me a wonderful thing in the corn, which they observed every year - with some sort of superstition. I found it to be the foundation of a - Roman temple very apparent, it being almost harvest time: here the - poverty of the corn growing where the walls stood, defines it to such - a nicety, that I was able to measure it with exactness enough: the - dimensions of the cell, or <em>naos</em>, were fifteen foot in breadth, - forty in length; the <em>pronaos</em>, where the steps were, appeared - at both ends, and the wall of the portico around, whereon stood the - pillars. I remarked that the city was just a thousand Roman feet in - breadth, and that the breadth to the length was as three to five, of - the same proportion as they make their bricks: it is posited obliquely - to the cardinal points, its length from north-west to south-east; - whereby wholesomeness is so well provided for, according to the - direction of Vitruvius. The river Cam runs under the wall, whence its - name; for I have no scruple to think this was the <em>Camboritum</em> - of Antoninus, meaning the ford over this river, or the crooked ford: - in Lincolnshire we called a crooked stick, the butchers use, a - <em>cambril</em>.<a id="FNanchor_56" href="#Footnote_56" class="fnanchor">[56]</a> They have found many Roman coins in the city or - Borough field, as they call it: I saw divers of them. In this parish, - they say, has been a royal manor: not far off, by Audlenhouse, upon - an eminence is a great <span class="sidenote">Roman <em>camp</em>.</span>Roman camp called Ringhill; a hunting tower of - brick now stands upon it. Beyond this the Icening-street goes toward - Icleworth in Suffolk, <span class="sidenote">TAB. XLV.</span>parting the counties of Cambridge and Essex - all the way; and almost parallel to it runs a great ditch, viz. from - Royston to Balsham, called Brentditch, where it turns and goes to the - river below Cambridge, there called Flightditch. I imagine these to - be ancient boundaries of the Britons, and before the Roman road was - made, which naturally enough would have served for a distinction by - the Saxons, as at other places, had their limits lain hereabouts. Two - miles both ways of Royston is chalky soil:<a id="FNanchor_57" href="#Footnote_57" class="fnanchor">[57]</a> about Puckeridge it is - gravelly. On Bartlow hills there is a camp too, castle camps, and Roman - antiquities found: I am told of three remarkable barrows thereabouts, - where bones have been dug out. At Hadstok they talk of the skin of a - Danish king nailed upon the church-doors.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp68 mb4" id="i_078"> - <div class="plateno"><i>59</i></div> - <div><b><span class="smcap large">Camboritvm.</span><br><span class="small"><i>21. Aug. 1722.</i></span></b></div> - <img src="images/i_078.jpg" alt=""> - <div><i>Thomæ Bawtre Conterraneo Suo Tabula votiva.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp85 mb4" id="i_079"> - <div class="plateno"><i>45</i></div> - <div><b><i>The</i> Hunting Tower <i>in the Ro. Camp near</i> Littlebury <i>Aug. 21. 1722.</i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_079a.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="mt1"><b><i>View of</i> Silchester Walls <i>from the N.E. corner Aug. 5. 1722. Ro. Brick & Flint.</i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_079b.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin:</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp:</i></div> - <figcaption>& Amico Peregrino Bertie Ar. vovet.</figcaption> - </figure> - - <p>Now we shall take along with us the Itinerary of Antoninus in his fifth - journey; for after he has gone from London toward Colchester, and - part of Suffolk, he turns into this Icening-street at <em>Icianis</em>, - which seems to be Icesworth beyond St. Edmundsbury; from whence to - this <em>Camboritum</em> is thirty-five miles: from thence to Huntingdon - is just twenty-five, as they are noted; but it is to be supposed that - the Itinerary went along the Icening-street to Royston, then took the - Hermen-street; for so the miles exactly quadrate.</p> - - <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Royston.</span> Ro. <i>town</i>.</div> - - <p>Royston, as being seated upon the intersection of these two roads, no - doubt was a Roman town<a id="FNanchor_58" href="#Footnote_58" class="fnanchor">[58]</a> before Roisia<a id="FNanchor_59" href="#Footnote_59" class="fnanchor">[59]</a> built her religious house - here, and perpetuated her own name upon the Roman, which is now lost; - and <span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">80</span>this very year they found Roman coins near there: but there seems - to be the stump of her cross still remaining at the corner of the inn - just where the two roads meet. The Hermen-street now coincides all the - way with the common northern road. At Arminton, denominated from it, - passes another branch of the river going to Cambridge in Armingford - hundred; so by Caxton, which was probably a baiting-place: there are - some old works without the town. A red clay begins now. Anno 1721, - near this road my lord Oxford, digging canals at Wimpole, found many - bodies, and pieces of iron rusty, the remains of some battle. Wimpole - is now improved and honoured with his residence, and the noble Harleian - library.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Durocinonte.</div> - - <p>At Godmanchester, or Gormanchester, on this side Huntingdon river, - the name <em>chester</em> ascertains the Roman <em>castrum</em> to have - been; nor is there any dispute of it, however critics vary about its - name, whether <em>Durosiponte</em> or <em>Durocinonte</em>; whether there - was a bridge, a ferry, or a ford, in most ancient times: no doubt but - the Romans inhabited both sides of the river, and probably rather at - Huntingdon, being a much better situation; therefore, as to antiquities - here found, I hold myself more excusable if at present I have nothing - to say. Mr. Camden tells us Roman coins have been frequently ploughed - up at Gormanchester, and Henry of Huntingdon says it has been a noble - city: but I took notice of a wooden bridge over a rivulet between the - two towns, which ought not to be forgot, as a grateful and public - charity, having this inscription.</p> - - <div class="center"><b>RO<span class="overline">B</span>TUS COOK EMERGENS AQUIS HOC VIATORIBUS<br> - SACRUM DD. 1636.</b></div> - - <p class="noindent">In Huntingdon is the house where Oliver Cromwell was born: though it is - new-built, yet they preserved that room in its first state.<a id="FNanchor_60" href="#Footnote_60" class="fnanchor">[60]</a></p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Stukeley.</div> - - <p>From hence the Hermen-street goes in a strait line through Great and - Little Stukeley, so called from the soil, and most anciently written - <em>Styvecle</em>, signifying a stiff clay.<a id="FNanchor_61" href="#Footnote_61" class="fnanchor">[61]</a> I should be ungrateful - to my ancestors, not to mention that hence they had their name and - large possessions in both towns, and many others hereabouts. I have - the genealogy of them from Herebert be Styvecle, mentioned in Madox - <cite>Hist. Scaccar. cap.</cite> xiv. <i>fol.</i> 382. <i>mag. rot.</i> 12. - H. II. <i>rot.</i> 6. Cant. & Hunt. which shows that they had lands - here before. His descendants of this place have been high sheriffs - of the counties of Huntingdon and Cambridge more than thirty times, - and knights of the shire in parliament more than forty times: but I - remember Lucan says,</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry" lang="la"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i6">————<i>perit omnis in illo</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Nobilitas, cujus laus est in origine sola.</i></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">81</span></p> - - <p class="noindent">In Great Stukeley church is a font of a very ancient make, and in - the north aile a monumental brass of Sir Nicholas Styvecle: the legend - round the verge of the stone was kept for some time in the town chest, - when it was taken off being loose, but now lost: the effigies being - in the same condition, we carried it to be hung up in the hall now - belonging to James Torkington esq; whose ancestors married the heiress - of the family, and now enjoys the estate.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp60 mb4" id="i_081"> - <div class="plateno"><i>17</i></div> - <div class="smcap large"><b>Inclytus Ailwinus Totius Angliæ Aldermanus<br> - Fundator Abbatiæ de Ramsey, (In Lapide. 1719.)</b></div> - <img class="illowp54" src="images/i_081.jpg" alt=""> - <div><b><i>& Amicissimo S. Gale Ar. D.D.</i></b></div> - <div class="attl"><i>W. Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div> - </figure> - - <p class="clear">The Hermen-street hence becomes notorious by the name of Stangate; - whence we may conjecture that it was originally paved with stone: - a mile beyond Little Stukeley it turns somewhat to the right, and - then proceeds full north and south: near Stilton some parts appear - still paved with stone: it passes through great woods between the two - Saltrys, where was a religious foundation of Simon Silvanect II. earl - of Huntingdon and Northampton; among whose ruins lie buried Robert - Brus, lord of Anandale in Scotland, and of Cleveland in England, with - Isabel his wife, from whom the Scottish branch of our royal family is - descended. Near the road-side Roman urns have been dug up. I thought - it piety to turn half a mile out of the road, to visit<span class="sidenote smcap">Conington.</span> Conington, the - seat of the noble Sir Robert Cotton, where he and the great Camden - have often sat in council upon the antiquities of Britain, and where - he had a choice collection of Roman inscriptions, picked up from all - parts of the kingdom. I was concerned to see a stately old house - of hewn stone large and handsome lie in dismal ruin, the deserted - <em>lares</em> and the <em>genius</em> of the place fled: by it a most - beautiful church and tower; in the windows is fine painted glass, but - of what sort I know not: a poor cottage or two seem to be the whole - town, once the possession of the kings of Scotland.<a id="FNanchor_62" href="#Footnote_62" class="fnanchor">[62]</a> From those - woods aforementioned, standing on high ground, you see all over the - level of the fens, particularly that huge reservoir of water called - Whitlesey-mere, full of fish, and a very pleasant place in summer - time, where the gentry have little vessels to sail in for diversion: - upon this hill Sir Robert Cotton, digging the foundation of a house, - found the skeleton of a fish twelve foot long. A little to the right - lies <span class="sidenote smcap">Ramsey.</span>Ramsey, famous for a rich abbey, where every monk lived like - a gentleman: there is little of it left now, but a part of the old - gate-house. <span class="sidenote">TAB. XVII.</span>In the yard I saw the neglected statue of the famous Alwyn - the founder, called alderman of all England, cousin to king Edgar: I - take this to be one of the most ancient pieces of English sculpture - which we knew of: the <em>insignia</em> he has in his hand, the keys and - ragged staff, relate to his office. Anno 1721 many pecks of Roman coins - were found there. Probably from the name we may conjecture it was a - Roman town. Near it is Audrey causeway: at the south end of it, in the - parish of Willingham, a camp of a circular form, large, called Belsar’s - hills, thought that of William the Conqueror, or his general Belasis, - when busied in the reduction of the isle of Ely, or Odo Balistarius. A - Roman pavement found at Ramsey.</p> - - <p>Stilton, or Stickleton, analogous to <em>Stivecle</em>, is famous for - cheese, which they sell at 12d. per pound, and would be thought equal - to Parmesan, were it not too near us. Beyond here the road is perfect, - with a ridge upon the open fields, for a long way together: it goes - pretty near north and south about Stangate; but now it takes a turn - to the left a little, to avoid the vast fens full before our view. I - cannot but take notice of the great stones, set at every mile from - Grantham hither by Mr. Boulter, which he designed to have carried on - to London. Any thing that assists or amuses travellers is <span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">82</span>most highly - commendable: hence the good understanding of the ancients prompted them - to set their funeral monuments by the road side, not crouded round - their temples: they knew the absurdity of filling the mind with ideas - of melancholy, at such times as they approached the sacred altars: - there nought but what is beautiful and great ought to appear, as most - besuiting the place where we seek the Deity. With them Mercury was - the god of ways, and the <i lang="la">custos manium</i>. I have often wondered - that the cheap and easy method of setting up posts with directions at - every cross road is so little practised; which methinks deserves to be - enforced by a law: it would teach the carpenters that make them, and - the country people, to read, with much more emolument to the public - than some other methods now in vogue: of other uses I need say nothing. - All the country between Huntingdon river and Peterborough river is - clay, sand, and gravel; but beyond that to the Humber is stone. At - Gunwath ferry over Peterborough river is a new bridge, where boats too - pay a toll; such is the modern way of encouraging trade and navigation. - The people of Peterborough are ato having their river made - navigable, out of an absurd notion that it will spoil their trade.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Durobrivis.</div> - - <div class="sidenote">TAB. XIII. 2d Vol.</div> - - <p>The imperial Itinerary makes 35 miles between the last station, - <em>Durocinonte</em>, and <em>Durobrivis</em>;<a id="FNanchor_63" href="#Footnote_63" class="fnanchor">[63]</a> but a decimal too much - is put into the number, for 25 is full enough: it is indeed 25 measured - miles from Huntingdon river to the Nen at Caster: there is no dispute - but Chesterton by Caster is the place. Dornford retains somewhat of the - old name, where the road traversed the river by a bridge (of brass, - the common people say.) At Chesterton on this side is a large tract - of ground, called the Castle field, with a ditch and rampart around - it:<a id="FNanchor_64" href="#Footnote_64" class="fnanchor">[64]</a> the Roman road runs directly through it, and still retains - its high ridge. I observe every where near the fenny country great - precaution and strength employed; which seems owing to the incursions - of the Britons from that part, who, no doubt, retired into these - fastnesses as their last refuge, when the Roman arms shined all around - them: and that reason must induce the Romans very early to think of - draining the country, and rendering it provincial, which was the only - means of preventing that inconvenience. The Hermen-street beyond the - river runs for some space along the side of it upon the meadow, then - turns up with an angle, and proceeds full north. Caster<a id="FNanchor_65" href="#Footnote_65" class="fnanchor">[65]</a> is above - half a mile from it, upon the hill. I espied a bit of the foundation of - the wall of the Roman <em>castrum</em> in the street to the north-west - corner of the church, under the wall of the house where the minister - lives: it is easily known by the vast strength of the mortar, built - of the white slab-stone of the country: this <em>castrum</em> then went - round the church-yard, and took in the whole top of the hill, facing - the mid day sun. Underneath it lay the city; for below the church-yard - the ground is full of foundations and Mosaics: I saw a bit of a - pavement in the cellar of the ale-house (the Boot.)</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry" lang="la"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i7">———<i>varias ubi picta per artes</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Gaudet humus, suberantque novis asarota figuris.</i> <span class="smcap fright">Stat. Silv.</span></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>13·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span> - <span class="xsmall" style="vertical-align: top; margin-left: 1em;">over the Quire door in Castor chh.</span></i></div> - <div><b><i>Prospect of Castor</i>, Durobrivis. <i>11. July. 1724.</i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_082.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div> - </figure> - - <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">83</span></p> - - <p class="noindent clear">They know of many such: particularly at Mr. Wright’s, and in the - landlord’s garden, is an intire one untouched. Roman coins are found in - great abundance: I have before me a long and particular catalogue of - many I have seen of all times, from the consular to the later emperors, - in brass and silver, but think it a nauseous formality to print them: a - few I will repeat of the silver.</p> - - <table class="small"> - <tbody> - <tr> - <td><i>M. poblic</i></td> - <td>℞</td> - <td class="tdl">— <i>nus imp.</i></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"><i>Ant.</i> III. <i>vir</i></td> - <td class="tdl"><i>leg.</i> VI.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"><i>Sabin</i></td> - <td class="tdl"><i>l. titur.</i> the rape of the Sabins.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"><i>Augustus divi fil.</i></td> - <td class="tdl"><i>imp</i> x <i>act</i>.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"><i>Cæsar Augustus pater patriæ.</i></td> - <td class="tdl"><i>Augusti f. cos. design. princ. juvent.</i> [exergue] <i>Cl. Cæsaris</i></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"><i>Augustus Cæsar</i></td> - <td class="tdl">a comet. <i>idus jun.</i></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"><i>Cæsar</i></td> - <td class="tdl"><i>l. juli l. f.</i> a chariot drawn by cupids.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"><i>Hadrian Cos.</i> III.</td> - <td class="tdl"><i>Ægyptos</i>, a recumbent figure with the <i>sistrum</i>.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"><i>Theodosius</i></td> - <td class="tdl"><i>virtus romanorum tr. p. s.</i></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"><i>Silanus</i></td> - <td class="tdl"><i>l. f. roma.</i></td> - </tr> - </tbody> - </table> - - <p class="noindent">These among more are in the possession of Monsieur Baillardeau.<a id="FNanchor_66" href="#Footnote_66" class="fnanchor">[66]</a> In - the ploughed fields between the town and the river, toward Ford-green, - they are often found, with earthen pipes, bricks, and all sorts of - antiquities: in that field is a tract running quite through, whereon - corn grows very poorly, which is nothing but a street or road laid - with a deep bed of gravel: the vulgar have a foolish story about it, - as at other places, and say that lady Kyneburg cursed it; by whom - they mean the abbess that built a religious house here, which stood - eastward of the church: some part of it is still left. This meadow is - called Norman-gate field, or more properly Dorman-gate, some corrupted - memorial of the ancient name of the town, which extended itself hither; - and foundations are found all about here, and innumerable coins, which - they call Dorman pence: part of this is Berrysted, where antiquities - are dug up every day. Higher up toward Peterborough is Mill-field: - Mosaic pavements are there dug up, and other things; and seems to have - been a little citadel belonging to the town. Part of the church is of - an ancient fabric, but new modelled: there is a curious inscription - upon a stone over the choir door thus: (the letters are raised.)</p> - - <div class="center">XV<sup>o</sup>. KL<sup>s</sup> MAI. DEDICATIO HVI<sup>s</sup> ECLE<sup>s</sup> A. D. M.<sup>o</sup> CXIIII.</div> - - <p class="noindent">it is wrong transcribed in Camden. The steeple stands in the middle - of the church: the tower is a fine piece of ancient architecture with - semi-circular arches; I judge the spire of later date. The square well - by the porch no doubt is Roman; it is curbed with hewn stone: though - it stands on a hill, yet the water is very high: at the east end of - the church is a very old cross. Mr. Morton is very copious upon this - station, in his curious history of Northamptonshire; the inquisitive - reader will consult him: I only recite such things as I saw, and fear - being tedious upon such places as admit of no doubt among antiquaries. - A little higher up the river, near <span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">84</span>Wansford bridge,<a id="FNanchor_67" href="#Footnote_67" class="fnanchor">[67]</a> a gold British - coin was found, in the possession of Mr. Maurice Johnson, J. C. Anno - 1720, at Thorp, the seat of Sir Francis St. John, by Peterborough, a - Mosaic pavement was found: this was undoubtedly a villa of some great - Roman. In the garden here are some fine antique statues of marble, - but suffering more from the weather, in this moist situation, than - from age: in the middle is a Livia of coloss proportion, the wife - of Augustus: in the four quarters are Diana, Amphion, an orator, a - gladiator: upon the terrace, an admirable Hercules killing Hydra: in - the court are two equestrian figures in copper, Henry IV. of France, - and Don John of Austria: within the house over most of the doors are - placed busts, Bassianus, Caracalla, &c. these antiquities were of the - Arundel collection.</p> - - <p>Hence I travelled upon the Roman road all the way to Stanford. As it - rises from the water-side of Peterborough river, and passes over the - corn-fields, it appears in a lofty ridge called Norman-gate, i. e. - Dorman-gate; only here and there they have dug great holes in it for - its materials: it goes forwards to Lolham bridges, by the name of - Long-ditch, which we treated of before, being its oldest and directest - road, full north and south. In the reign of Nero all the southern - part of the island was conquered, and the <em>Brigantes</em> were fast - friends; so that in his time we may conclude the Hermen-street was made - as far as Sleford by Catus Decianus the procurator, as we suggested in - the first letter. But now our journey is by the left-hand new branch, - and which goes out of the other with an angle in the parish of Upton, - called the Forty-foot way: almost at Southorp, it is inclosed in a - pasture; but beyond that you find it again, going by Walcot inclosures, - then through Bernack fields, winding a little to the left hand till - it enters Burleigh park: its true line from Walcot corner would pass - through Tolethorp wood, but the river below Stanford was too broad; so - it passes through Burleigh park, where its gravel is transferred to - make walks in the gardens: at Wothorp park-wall it appears again with a - very high ridge and agreeable sight, descending the valley to Stanford - river, which it passes a little above the town between it and Tynwell; - then rises again upon the opposite hill, entering Lincolnshire, with - its broad and elated crest, till it goes to Brigcasterton: it is - composed all the way of stone, gravel, and hard materials, got near at - hand: the common road leaves it intirely from Peterborough river to - Brigcasterton, crossing it at Wothrop park-wall.<a id="FNanchor_68" href="#Footnote_68" class="fnanchor">[68]</a></p> - - <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Brigcasterton.</span> Ro. <i>town</i>.</div> - - <div class="sidenote">TAB. XIV. 2d vol.</div> - - <p>Brigcasterton happened most convenient for a station, being ten miles - from the last, or Durobrivis; but the Itinerary mentions not its name; - for the distances between them, and likewise to Lincoln, impugn Mr. - Camden and such as place Causennis here: however, it was fenced about - with a deep mote on two sides, the river supplying its use on the other - two; for it stands in an angle, and the Romans made a little curve - in the road here on purpose to take it in, as it offered itself so - conveniently, then rectified the obliquity on the other side of the - town: it consists of one street running through its length upon the - road: this great ditch and banks are called the Dikes. I saw many coins - that are found here; and one pasture is called Castle-close at the - corner: they say the foundation of a wall was dug up there.<a id="FNanchor_69" href="#Footnote_69" class="fnanchor">[69]</a></p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>14·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <div><b><i>Prospect of</i> Brig casterton <i>from the Hermen Street S. of the Town. 13. July 1724.</i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_084.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_085"> - <div class="plateno"><i>20</i></div> - <div><i><b>Colsterworth Church Lincolnshire</b></i></div> - <img src="images/i_085.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley Fecit</i></div> - <div><a href="#t_85">See transcription</a></div> - </figure> - - <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">85</span></p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Colsterworth.</div> - - <div class="sidenote">TAB. XX.</div> - - <p>Hence the road goes by Stretton, then leaves a little on the left hand - Colsterworth, highly memorable for being the birth-place of that vast - genius Sir Isaac Newton, the darling of Nature, who with a sagacity - truly wonderful has penetrated into the secret methods of all her great - operations; of whom Lincolnshire may justly boast: and we may say of - him, with Lucretius, I.</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry" lang="la"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0"><i>Ergo vivida vis animi pervicit, & extra</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Processit longe flammantia mœnia mundi,</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Atque omne immensum peragravit mente animoque.</i><a id="FNanchor_70" href="#Footnote_70" class="fnanchor">[70]</a></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">On the north wall of the chancel is this monument. <i>Heic jacent - Gulielmi Walkeri particulæ obiit 1 aug. anno domini 1684. ætat. 61.</i></p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Causennis.</div> - - <p>Thirty lesser miles from Durobrivis you come to Paunton,<a id="FNanchor_71" href="#Footnote_71" class="fnanchor">[71]</a> which must - needs be <em>Causennis</em>: it is indeed twenty seven measured miles, - the Hermen-street accompanying. This village is at present under the - hill where the road goes near the spring of the Witham, to which I - suppose its name alludes, as the present to <em>pant avon</em>: both - signify the valley of the river in British: perhaps the most ancient - name of the river was <em>Cavata</em>; whence that part of the country - that is watered by it assumed the name of Kestevon,<a id="FNanchor_72" href="#Footnote_72" class="fnanchor">[72]</a> importing the - river Cavata, <em>Cavaut avon</em>; as Lindsey from <em>Lindum</em>: the - present name Witham, or <em>Guithavon</em>, signifying the separating - river, as it principally divides these two. Many Roman coins are found - here, and all the neighbourhood round, and Mosaic pavements, Roman - bricks, urns and the like, of a curious composition. Mr. Burton speaks - of a musive pavement.</p> - - <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Ancaster.</span> Ro. <i>town</i>.</div> - - <div class="sidenote">TAB. XV. 2d Vol.</div> - - <p>The Hermen-street, now called High-dike road, goes along the heath, - which preserves it from being worn away; and it is a sight highly - entertaining.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">86</span> The next town it comes to is Ancaster:<a id="FNanchor_73" href="#Footnote_73" class="fnanchor">[73]</a> what was its - Roman name I know not; but it has been a very strong city, intrenched - and walled about; as may be seen very plainly for the most part, and - perceived by those that are the least versed in these searches. The - bowling-green behind the Red-lion inn is made in the ditch: when they - were levelling it, they came to the old foundation. At this end of the - town, where a dove-cote stands, is Castle close, full of foundations - appearing every where above ground: the ditch and rampire encompass - it. Here are prodigious quantities of Roman coins found; many people - in the town have traded in the sale of them these thirty years: they - are found too in great plenty upon all the hills round the town, - especially southward, and toward Castle-pits; so that one may well - persuade one’s self, that glorious people sowed them in the earth like - corn, as a certain harvest of their fame, and indubitable evidence of - their presence at this place. After a shower of rain the school-boys - and shepherds look for them on the declivities, and never return empty. - I saw an <em>Antoninus Pius</em>, of base silver, found that morning I - was there: likewise I saw many of Faustina, Verus, Commodus, Gallienus, - Salonina, Julia Mæsa, Constantius Chlorus, Helena, Maximiana Theodora, - Constantine the Great, Magnentius, Constans, Tetricus, Victorinus, - &c.<a id="FNanchor_74" href="#Footnote_74" class="fnanchor">[74]</a> The town consists of one street running north and south along - the road: there is a spring at both ends of the town, and which, no - doubt, was the reason of their pitching it at this place; for no more - water is met with from hence to Lincoln. There is a road on the west - side of the town, which was for the convenience of those that travelled - when the gates were shut. On a stone laid upon the church wall I read - this inscription, in large letters of lead melted into the cavities.</p> - - <div class="center gesperrt1"> - PRIEZ: PUR<br> - LE: ALME<br> - SIRE: JOHN<br> - COLMAN<br> - CHIVALER</div> - - <p class="noindent">In the church-yard are two priests cut in stone. This has been a - populous place; for here are great quarries about it, and the rock lies - very little under the surface. Mr. Camden speaks of vaults found here; - and W. Harrison, in his description of Britain, II. 17. mentions Mosaic - pavements.<a id="FNanchor_75" href="#Footnote_75" class="fnanchor">[75]</a> The road seems to bend somewhat in this part, which I - conjecture was with an intent to take in the springs.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>15·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <img src="images/i_086.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div> - <div><b><i>Prospect of</i> Ancaster. <i>Iuly 20. 1724.</i></b></div> - </figure> - - <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">87</span></p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Hunington.</div> - - <div class="sidenote">Ro. <i>camp</i>.</div> - - <p>A mile and half off to the west, in the parish of Hunnington, upon - a hill surveying a lovely prospect, both toward the sea-coast, and - into Nottinghamshire, is a summer camp of the Romans, or a <i lang="la">castrum - exploratorum</i>, of a square form and doubly trenched, but of no great - bulk: the entrance seems to have been on the east side. Not long ago, - in this place, have been dug up, in ploughing, bits of spears, bridles - and swords, and two urns full of coins: I saw a large brass one of - Agrippa, and Julia daughter to Augustus, with many more, in possession - of the Rev. Mr. Garnon of North Witham: his daughter gave me a score of - them at Newark, Dec. 1728. Mr. Banks, 1735, digging for his new house - at Ancaster, found much Roman antiquity.</p> - - <p>All the way from this road, upon Ancaster heath, we have a view of - the sea, and the towering height of Boston steeple. A little further - we come to a place, of no mean note among the country people, called - Byard’s Leap, where the Newark road crosses the Roman: here is a - cross of stone, and by it four little holes made in the ground: they - tell silly stories of a witch and a horse making a prodigious leap, - and that his feet rested in these holes, which I rather think the - boundaries of four parishes: perhaps I may be too fanciful in supposing - this name a corruption of <i lang="la">vialis lapis</i>. I mentioned before, - that here I apprehended the Roman road from the fen country passed - down the hill toward <em>Crocolana</em>. Upon our road there are many - stones placed; but most seem modern, and like stumps of crosses, yet - probably are mile-stones: it would be of little use to measure the - intervals; for one would find that the whole distance between two towns - was equally divided by such a number of paces as came nearest the - total. Over-against Temple-Bruer is a cross upon a stone, cut through - in the shape of that borne by the knights Templars, and I suppose a - boundary of their demesnes: some part of their old church is left, of a - circular form as usual. <em>Bruer</em> in this place signifies a heath. - The Hermen-street hereabout is very bold and perfect, made of stone - gathered all along from the superficial quarries, the holes remaining. - I observed, whenever it intercepts a valley of any considerable - breadth, whose water must necessarily drain past it, there is an - intermission left in the road; for otherwise their work would be vain: - and the ends of the road are flaunted off neatly for that purpose, - laying perhaps a small quantity of solid materials to vindicate the - track, and not hinder the voidance of the rain: it goes perfectly - strait from Ancaster to Lincoln full north, butting upon the west side - of Lincoln town. A <em>tumulus</em> some time upon the centre of it: it - is notorious from hence that the intent of these roads was chiefly - to mark out the way to such places in the march of their armies; for - there can be no need of a causeway for travellers, the heath being - so perfectly good; and that our English word <em>highway</em> is hence - derived, and applied to public ways. When we come to the towns upon the - cliff side, they have ploughed up this barren ground on both sides the - road, and basely lowered it for miles together, by dragging the plough - a-cross it at every furrow; so that every year levels it some inches, - and, was it not a public road, it would soon be quite obliterated. - Here are six villages on the left hand, at a mile distance each, and a - little off the road, which make an agreeable prospect. Just descending - Lincoln hill, I saw the true profile of the road broke off by the - wearing away of the ground: it is about thirty foot broad, made of - stone piled up into an easy convexity: there is likewise generally a - little trench dug in the natural earth along both sides of the road, - which is of great use in conducting the water<span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">88</span> that falls from the - heavens into the vallies upon the long side of the road both ways, and - prevents its lodging and stagnating against the side of their work: the - turf that came out of those trenches they threw upon the road to cover - it with grass: thus had they all the curious and convenient ways for - beauty, use, and perpetuity.<a id="FNanchor_76" href="#Footnote_76" class="fnanchor">[76]</a></p> - - <p>Below the hill the Hermen-street meets with the Foss, which now united - march directly up to the city, across a great vale where the river - Witham runs, by Mr. Baxter thought the <em>Victius</em> of Ravennas: Mr. - Leland calls it <em>Lindis</em>. As it descends towards Boston, it is - besieged, as it were, by religious houses, planted at every mile; such - as Nocton priory, founded by Robert D’arci, lord of the place, 1164. - now the elegant seat of Sir William Ellys, bart. Kyme priory, founded - by Philip and Simon de Kyme, knts. to which the Tailboyses added, who - married the heiress; Barlings abbey, founded by Ralph de Hay, and his - brother Richard; Stanfield, the seat now of Sir John Tyrwhit, bart. - Bardney abbey built by king Ethelred, who was buried here anno 712. - much added by Remigius bishop of Lincoln; Tupholm, founded by Rob. de - Novavilla; Stikeswold priory of the Benedictine nuns; <span class="sidenote">TAB. XXVIII.</span>Kirksted abbey, - by Hugh de Breton, whose ichnography is discoverable from its ruins; - Revesby abbey, by William de Romara.</p> - - <p>I think it not worth while, in a Roman journey, to dwell upon these - places, and haste up hill to Lincoln,<a id="FNanchor_77" href="#Footnote_77" class="fnanchor">[77]</a> a great and most famous city - of theirs, graced with the title and privilege of a<span class="sidenote smcap">Lindum.</span> colony; therefore - called <i lang="la">Lindum colonia</i>; a bold and noble situation upon a <span class="sidenote">TAB. LXXXVIII.</span>high - hill, which we may think no less than five cities united into one; of - all which I shall give a short account in their order, as to what I - observed, without transcribing such matters as the reader will find - better delivered in authors. My business is to illustrate the <a href="#i_088_2">88th - Plate</a>, which I made by pacing as I walked about the city, intended to - give the idea of the place as formed originally by the Romans, and of - their roads leading to and from it. <span class="sidenote">1.</span>Below the hill, and westward of - the city, the river throws itself into a great pool, called Swan pool - from the multitude of swans upon it. All around this place the ground - is moory, and full of bogs and islets, called now Carham, which means - a dwelling upon the <em>car</em>, that is, the fen. Now here, without - question, was the British city in the most early times, where they - drove their cattle backwards and forwards, and retired themselves into - its inaccessible securities; and from thence I apprehend the name - of <em>caer</em>, signifying a fortification or inclosure in all the - most ancient languages, came in this country to be retained in these - morasses: this was its name as a dwelling, or a collection of native - inhabitants; but the pool in their language was called <em>lhyn</em>, - and that denominated the Roman city <em>Lindum</em>, being the hill - hanging over this pool. From this Carham you have a pleasant view of - the west front of the cathedral. The shape of the pool is thought very - much to resemble a <span class="sidenote">2.</span>map of England, when you survey it from the top of - the cathedral. The Romans, pleased with this notable eminence, placed - their city upon it, which they first built in the form of a large - square, the southern wall standing upon the precipice or edge of the - hill, and wanted no other external fence: quite round the other three - sides they carried a deep trench too, which still remains, except on - the south-east angle. This city was divided into four equal parts, by - two cross streets that cut it quite through upon the cardinal<span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">89</span> - points: the two southern quarters were taken up, one by the castle, - the other by the church which Remigius built; but, when Alexander the - bishop projected a structure of much larger dimensions, they carried - the sacred inclosure beyond the eastern bounds of the city, and so - built a new wall farther that way, as it is now, with battlements - and towers. The north and south Roman gates of this part of the city - remain; the one intire, the other pulled down about fifteen years ago - by Mr. Houghton: the northern, called Newport gate,<span class="sidenote">TAB. LIV</span> is the noblest - remnant of this sort in Britain, as far as I know. Upon the first sight - of it I was struck with admiration, as well of its noble simplicity, - as that hitherto it should not have been taken notice of: it is a vast - semicircle of stones of very large dimensions, and, by what I could - perceive, laid without mortar, connected only by their cuniform shape. - This magnificent arch is sixteen foot diameter, the stones four foot - thick at bottom: from the injuries of time, but worse of hands, it - is somewhat luxated, yet seems to have a joint in the middle, not a - key-stone: on both sides, towards the upper part, are laid horizontal - stones of great dimensions, some ten or twelve foot long, to take off - the side pressure, very judiciously adapted. This arch rises from - an impost of large mouldings, some part of which, especially on the - left-hand side, are still discoverable: below on both sides was a - postern, or foot passage, made of like stones; but against that on the - left side is a house built, and when I went down into the cellar I - found a chimney set before it. The ground here in the street has been - very much raised, and the top of the wall is of a later workmanship: - it is indeed a most venerable piece of antiquity, and what a lover of - architecture would be hugely delighted withall. They that look upon - a gate among the vestiges of the <em>forum</em> of Nerva at Rome, will - think they see the counterpart of this; but, of the two, this has the - most grandeur in aspect: the drawing supplies any further harangue - about it. From this gate eastward, some part of the old Roman wall - is to be seen by a pasture, made of stone and very strong mortar: - thereabout too are some arches under ground. The west gate toward the - gallows was pulled down, not beyond memory: that on the south side, - which I spoke of, still shows one jamb from between the houses, and - two or three stones of the same make as the former, just above the - springing of the arch: if you go up stairs in the adjoining house - within the city, you may see the postern on the east side, which is big - enough for a bed to stand in. I doubt not but there is, or was, another - answerable on the other side; but this street is much contracted from - its original breadth by the subsequent populousness of the place; and - the ground here, being upon the edge of the hill, is much worn down, - as the first is heaped up, from the condition of former ages. But by - Newport gate before described, is another large and curious remnant of - Roman workmanship: this is called the Mint wall, and stands in a garden - in the north-west quarter of the city: it is still sixteen foot high, - above forty foot long, and turned again with an angle: on the left-hand - side behind it are houses built and marks of arches. What it was - originally cannot now be affirmed; the composition of it is thus: upon - squared stone of the common sort, but a little decayed through age, is - laid a triple course of Roman brick, which rises one foot in height; - the bricks seem to be a Roman foot long, and our seven inches broad: - above this three courses of stone, which rise about a foot more; then - three layers of brick, as before; upon that twelve courses of stone, - then brick and stone to the top: the scaffold-holes are left all the - way: the mortar is very hard, and full of little pebbles.</p> - - <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">90</span></p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="mb4" id="i_088_1"> - <div class="plateno"><i>28</i></div> - <div><b>RELIGIOVS.</b></div> - <img class="illowp75" src="images/i_088_1a.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="col50 small"><b>Remains <i>of the Church at</i> Kirsted Abbey <i>Linc. 1716</i>.</b></div> - <div class="col50 small"><b><i>The Gate house of</i> Tupholm Abbey <i>Linc.</i></b></div> - <div class="small mt2"><b>The Ichnography of the Monastery of <i>Kirsted</i> Linc.</b></div> - <div class="figcenter illowp73"> - <img src="images/i_088_1b.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="mb4" id="i_088_2"> - <div class="plateno"><i>88</i></div> - <div><b><span class="large">LINDVM Colonia.</span><br><i class="small">4 Sep. 1722.</i></b></div> - <img class="illowp66" src="images/i_088_2.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="small"><b>Josepho Banks Jun. Ar. <i>Tabulam</i> D.D. W<sup>s</sup>. Stukeley.</b></div> - <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="mb4" id="i_089"> - <div class="plateno"><i>54</i></div> - <div><span class="large"><b>Worth Gate (<i>a Roman Work</i>) Canterbury</b></span><br><i>6. Oct. 1722.</i></div> - <img class="illowp75" src="images/i_089a.jpg" alt=""> - <hr class="r75 clear mt0 mb1"> - <div><span class="large"><b><span class="smcap">Newport Gate</span> at <span class="smcap">Lincoln</span></b></span><br> - Sept. 3. 1722.<br><i>The Arch of Roman Work</i></div> - <img class="illowp75 mt0" src="images/i_089b.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="small mtneg"><i>Stuk<sup>e</sup>ley delin. & Amicissimo Conterraneo Mauritio Johnson Ar. - Interioris Templi J.C. offert.</i></div> - </figure> - - <div class="sidenote">3.</div> - - <p>But this city being happily seated for navigation of the river, and the - chief thoroughfare to the north, soon increased to that degree, that - the Romans were obliged to add another to it as big as the former: this - they did southward upon the declivity of the hill, and so tallied it to - the other, that the new side-walls answered in a parallel to the old, - and the most southern lay upon the river. Eastward the ditch without - is turned into a broad street called the Beast-market, and there below - Claskgate a great part of the old Roman wall is left, made of stones - piled sideways, first with one direction, then with another, as was - a common method with them: one piece of it is now eighty foot long, - eighteen high; a little bit of it lower down is twelve foot long, as - much high: between that gate upwards and the old city-wall, by the - Greestone stairs, is the old ditch to be seen, much talked of, but not - understood: it is called Weredyke. The people have a notion that the - river came up here, and that these stairs were a landing-place from - the water-side, and denominated from I know not what Grecian traders: - but this is utterly impossible in nature. To the west the ditch and - foundation of the wall is still left, though many times repaired and - demolished in the frequent sieges this town has sustained, especially - in the wars of Maud the empress: at the bottom of it, towards the - water, is a round tower called Lucy tower, and famous in her history. - This then was the state of this place in Roman times: the Foss and - Hermen-street entered the city at Stanbow, or the stoney arch; there - they parted: the Hermen-street went directly up the hill, and so full - north through Newport; the Foss, according to its natural direction, - ascended it obliquely on the eastern side without the ancient city, and - so proceeded to the sea coast north-east.</p> - - <div class="sidenote">4.</div> - - <p>But still here were two more great additions to the length of this - city, and which stretched it out to an enormous bulk; the first - northwards above the hill: it is called Newport, or the new city, - 500 paces long. This I apprehend to have been done in the reign of - the Saxon kings: it lies on both sides the Hermen-street, and was - fenced with a wall and ditch hewn out of the rock: at the two farther - corners were round towers and a gate, the foundations of which remain: - there were several churches and religious houses in this place; and - I suppose it was chiefly inhabited by Jews, who had settled here in - great numbers, and grown rich by trade: there is a well still called - Grantham’s well, from a child they ludicrously crucified and threw into - that well.</p> - - <div class="sidenote">5.</div> - - <p><a id="FNanchor_78" href="#Footnote_78" class="fnanchor">[78]</a>After the Norman conquest, when a great part of the - first city was turned into a castle, I apprehend they added the last - intake southward in the angle of the Witham, and made a new cut, called - Sinsil dike, on the south and east side, for its security. The city - then being of this huge compass, gave occasion for that prophecy, as - they call it, and fancy to have been fulfilled in the year 1666:</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0">Lincoln <i>was</i>, London <i>is, and</i> York <i>shall be</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>The fairest city of the three</i>.</div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">It is observable that the Normans could not well pronounce - <em>Lincoln</em>, but called it <em>Nichol</em>, as we find it in some - old writers; and to this day a part of <em>swan</em> pool is called - <em>nichol</em> pool: in some places of Lincolnshire the vulgar pronounce - <em>little</em>, <em>nickle</em>, and some other words of that sort. Though - this place is much declined since those times, yet of late it begins - to flourish again very considerably. The meaning of <em>grecian</em> - stairs I suppose borrowed from the Normans, importing only stone steps - (<em>grees</em>) as they appear <span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">91</span>at this day, a commodious descent from - the minster yard. Within this two years, two new churches, large and - fair, have been built at the charge of the inhabitants, and a great - many handsome dwelling-houses: trades and manufactures too reflourish.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp68 mb4" id="i_091"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>64·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <div class="large"><b><span class="smcap">Roman Inscriptions</span></b></div> - <img src="images/i_091.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>I Harris Sculp</i></div> - <div><a href="#t_091">See transcription</a></div> - </figure> - - <p><a id="FNanchor_79" href="#Footnote_79" class="fnanchor">[79]</a>In this last part of the city, on both - sides the Roman road, were many funeral monuments of the old Romans; - some of which they now dig up, and doubtless much more when they first - built upon this ground. I saw a pit where they found a stone with an - inscription, this summer: through age and the workmen’s tools it was - defaced, only small remains of D. M. & VIX. ANN. XXX. such letters as - showed its intent, with carvings of palm-trees, and other things: this - is behind the house where the lord Hussey was beheaded for rebellion in - the time of Henry VIII. the great bow window through which he came upon - the scaffold was taken down this year: it stands over-against another - stone building, of an ancient model, said to be the palace of John - of Gaunt, duke of Lancaster, who lived here in royal state, and had - the privilege of coining: his arms are here carved in stone. Upon the - steeple of St. Mary’s church they have placed in the wall an ancient - monumental stone, with this imperfect inscription:</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry" lang="la"> - <div class="stanza gesperrt1" lang="la"> - <div class="i0">DIS MANIBVS</div> - <div class="i0">NOMINI SACRI</div> - <div class="i0">BRVSCI FILI CIVIS</div> - <div class="i0">SENONI ET CARIS</div> - <div class="i0">UNAE CONIVGIS</div> - <div class="i0">EIUS ET QVINTIE.</div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">There is another obscure inscription upon the upper part of the stone, - but has been added since, and is christian. Upon the church-wall lies - an old stone by the conduit, which Leland takes notice of, and says is - Ranulf de Kyme. Immense are the Roman antiquities dug up about this - famous colony: nor has the perpetual turning up the ground exhausted - them. The late Dr. Primrose had a great collection: I remember to have - seen a fine glass urn in his possession, now with Martin Folkes, esq; - found near Newport gate; also a very large silver seal of one of the - Quincys earls of Lincoln, now with Nevil King, esq. Wm. Pownal, esq; - has many coins very well preserved, particularly a Carausus with his - wife on the same coin, which is a great rarity. I am in hopes he will - some time favour the learned with an accurate account of this place, - as it highly deserves. Upon the Roman road eastward are some barrows: - many urns, and the like, have been dug up about them, especially near - the stone pits, with earthen aqueducts, and all kinds of antiquities. - Mr. Pownal showed me a brass <em>armilla</em>, found with a corpse - which possibly was British.<a id="FNanchor_80" href="#Footnote_80" class="fnanchor">[80]</a> Upon the road going to Staynton, is - an hospital of St. Giles, built by Remigius; and behind it are great - cavities in the rock under ground, which people fancied to be Roman - <span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">92</span>catacombs, and affirmed they had seen earthen and brazen pots, - inscriptions and the like, with many other strange stories: to search - this matter thoroughly, provided with torches, we traced them to the - utmost corners, but found them only quarries. Let us now survey the - cathedral. It is far more magnificent than any I have yet seen: there - are two great gate-houses or entrances to it from the west: the lower - part of the front, and of the two towers, are of Remigius his building, - as is easily discoverable by the colour of the stones, and by the - manner of architecture: but Alexander built the additions upon it, the - body of the cathedral, the choir and St. Mary’s tower, which once had a - very lofty spire upon it; a prodigious work for a single man, and that - not the only one, as appears by what we have mentioned of him. St. Hugh - the Burgundian built the east end, or<span class="sidenote">TAB. XXIX.</span> St. Mary’s chapel, where he had a - shrine; and the chapter-house cieled with a beautiful stone roof, one - pillar in the middle. The cloysters and the library are fine: here are - many books and manuscripts, and an old leaden inscription of William - d’Agincourt, cousin to Remigius, already printed. Here are many bells, - particularly one remarkably large, called <em>Tom of Lincoln</em>, which - takes up a whole steeple to itself; probably consecrated to that great - champion of the church, St. Thomas of Canterbury, the first cathedral - mentioned in Bede; I suppose an humble building, and contained within - the ancient walls. Two Catharine-wheel windows, as called, at the ends - of the larger transepts, are remarkably fine for mullion-work and - painted glass. Here are great numbers of ancient brasses and monuments: - one I have engraven from a drawing procured by Browne Willys, esq; - <span class="sidenote">TAB. XVI.</span>Tab. 16. the stone only is left near the west door. To set down the - particularities of the church would require a volume. South of it, upon - the very brow of the hill, is the bishop’s palace, built by Robert - de Chesney, who gave two great bells likewise: bishop Bek and other - successors enlarged it to a magnificence equal with the cathedral: it - stands just south of the Roman wall; a very expensive work, for the - foundations of it reach, as it were, below hill: over this hung many - large bow windows of curious workmanship, looking over the tops of the - lower city into Nottinghamshire: the kitchen had seven chimneys in it: - the hall was stately: the gate-house remains intire, with coats of arms - of the founders. This palace was ruined in the time of the civil wars: - good part of it might be handsomely rebuilt without an extravagant expence.</p> - - <p>In Leland’s time one of the stone crosses of queen Eleanor was here - standing in the market place: it were endless to enumerate the - religious houses, gates, and old buildings, that croud up every part - of the streets. Here were originally fifty two churches. I never saw - such a fund of antique speculations in any town in England: I heard - continually of coins and urns found all the country over, as at - Cathorp, Methringham, Nocton, &c. I found this inscription on a stone - in the stable wall of the Rein-deer inn.</p> - - <p class="noindent antiqua">+RANDOLF: DE: BORTON: GYT: ICY: DEUI: DE: SA: ALME: AYT: MERCY: AMEN.</p> - - <p class="noindent">This castle of William the Conqueror’s is a large place, and - exceedingly strong with walls, ditches, keep, and towers: over against - it westward is an intrenchment made by king Stephen.</p> - - <p>Through the whole length of Lincolnshire, from north to south, in - a strait line runs a ledge of hills, that is, from Stanford to - Winteringham: the Romans, observing this, carried their road upon - it, and left the original stem of Fokingham. This high ground is - similar all along, having a steep descent westward, overlooking - Nottinghamshire, and is a rock of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">93</span> rag-stone quite through; the - stone is white, and rises in <em>strata</em>, thicker as deeper: the - surface is heathy. The river Witham, which rises on the west of this - ridge, must have run into the Humber, had not Nature, by her propensity - of drawing it eastward, as her declivities generally run, broke it off - in the middle by that great valley under Lincoln, and made a passage - for it into the estuary. Hence it is that the stone upon this western - cliff is full of sea-shells; for, when the great and universal deluge - had carried those inhabitants of the ocean into the mediterranean - parts, by the weight of their shells they were unapt to retire again - along with the waters, so were intercepted against this cliff, and - received into the nascent stone.<a id="FNanchor_81" href="#Footnote_81" class="fnanchor">[81]</a> A remarkable antediluvian - curiosity I procured for the repository of the Royal Society, from - these parts; being the real skeleton of a crocodile, or some such - animal, inclosed in a broad flat stone. But now it is time to proceed.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp65 mb4" id="i_092_1"> - <div class="plateno"><i>29</i></div> - <div class="bold"><i>The Shrine of S<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span></i> Hugh <i>the Burgundian</i> - Bishop <i>of</i> Lincoln. <i>In the South Isle of the Cathedral there behind the Choir.</i></div> - <img src="images/i_092_1.jpg" alt=""> - <div>Reverendo Doctissimoq<sub>ue</sub> Laurentio Echard <i>dicata</i>.</div> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="mb4" id="i_092"> - <div class="plateno"><i>16</i></div> - <img class="illowp58" src="images/i_092_2.jpg" alt=""> - <div><a href="#t_092">See transcription</a></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_093"> - <div class="plateno"><i>87</i></div> - <div><b><span>AGELOCVM.</span><br><i>Sep. 1722.</i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_093.jpg" alt=""> - <div><a href="#t_093">See transcription</a></div> - </figure> - - <p>The Hermen-street going northward from Lincoln is scarce diminished, - because its materials are hard stone, and the heath on both sides - favours it: three miles off, near a watering-place, a branch divides - from it with an obtuse angle to the left, which goes towards Yorkshire. - We suppose the Romans at first had an erroneous idea of the island of - Britain, and thought its northern parts in a more easterly longitude - than by experience they found; and thus in Ptolemy’s maps the length - of Scotland is represented running out enormously that way: but when - Agricola, in his conquests northward, had discovered that mistake, - and that the passage over the Humber was very incommodious for the - march of soldiers, he struck out this new road, as another branch of - the Hermen-street, by way of Doncaster, from thence observing its - natural direction northward. When we turn ourselves here, and look - back to Lincoln, we see the road butts upon the western spires of the - cathedral: and when from thence you survey the road, it is an agreeable - prospect; your eye being in the middle line of its whole length to the - horizon. I had a mind to pursue this branch through Lincolnshire as far - as the first station, <em>Agelocum</em>: this ridge is likely to be of - an eternal duration, as wholly out of all roads: it proceeds directly - over the heath, then descends the cliff through the rich country at - bottom, between two hedge-rows, by the name of Tilbridge lane. When you - view it on the brink of the hill, it is as a visto or avenue running - through a wood or garden very strait, and pleasanter in prospect than - when you come to travel it; wanting a Roman legion to repair it. You - pass through Stretton and Gate-Burton, so called from the road, and by - a ferry cross over the Trent, which lands you at</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Agelocum.</div> - - <div class="sidenote">TAB. LXXXVII.</div> - - <p>Littleborough, <em>Agelocum</em>, or, as by later times corrupted, with - a <em>sibilus</em>, into <em>Segelocum</em>.<a id="FNanchor_82" href="#Footnote_82" class="fnanchor">[82]</a> This is a small village - three miles above Ganesborough, just upon the edge of the water, - and in an angle. <em>Agel auk</em>, <em>frons aquæ</em>, is a pertinent - etymology: it seems only to have been environed with a ditch, and of a - square form, and the water ran quite round it; for to the west, where - White’s bridge is, a watery valley hems it in: so that it was a place - sufficiently strong. The church stands upon the highest ground. The - Trent has washed away part of the eastern side of the town. Foundations - and pavements are visible in the bank. Mr. Roger Gale, passing by, - once found an urn there, with a coin of Domitian’s: great numbers of - coins have been taken up in ploughing and digging: they called them - swine-pennies, <span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">94</span>because those creatures sometimes root them up, and - the inhabitants take little care to save them. I saw a few there: the - reverend Mr. Ella, vicar of Rampton hard by, has collected several, and - some valuable, such as the following, of which he sent me an account.</p> - - <p>A consecration piece of Vespasian. Cos. IIII.</p> - - <p>IMP CAES NERVAE TRAIANO AVG GER DAC PMTRP COSVPP ℞ SPQR OPTIMO - PRINCIPI. The mole at Ancona.</p> - - <p>IMP CÆS NER TRAIANO OPTIMO AVG GER DAC ℞ SENATVS POPVLVSQ ROMANVS. - Fortune sitting with a <em>cornucopia</em> in one hand, a rudder in the - other, FORT RED SC.</p> - - <p>IMP CAES. &c. as the second. ℞ SPQR. a genius sitting on trophies, with - a spear in the left hand, a <em>victoriola</em> in its right.</p> - - <p>IMP CAESAR TRAIANVS HADRIANVS ℞ PONT. MAX. TRP. Britannia sitting with - a shield, a spear in her left hand, a laurel in her right, the right - foot upon a rock BRITANNIA SC.</p> - - <p>CONSTANTINVS AVG. ℞ SOLI INVICTO COMITI. Another, ℞ ALEMANNIA DEVICTA.</p> - - <p class="noindent">Several of those struck about Constantius’s time with a galeate head - on one side, and URBS ROMA ℞ a wolf suckling Romulus and Remus: - others, CONSTANTINOPOLIS: many more, of Aurelius, Faustina, Gallienus, - Tetricus, Victorinus, Carausius, Constantine, Constantius, Crispus, - Allectus, and the lower Empire. About forty years ago, when the - inclosures between the town and bridge were ploughed up, abundance of - these coins were found, many intaglias of agate, cornelian, the finest - coral-coloured urns and patera’s, some wrought in <em>basso relievo</em>, - the workman’s name generally impressed on the inside of the bottom: a - <em>discus</em> with an emperor’s head embossed. In 1718, they dug up - two altars, handsomely moulded, which are set as piers in a wall on - the side of the steps that lead from the water-side to the inn: on one - is the remnant of an inscription, LIS ARAM DD. these are of the course - grit-stone. Many very little coins are found here, like flatted pease; - they call them mites. Mr. Hardy has a large urn with the face of a - woman on the out-side. In this same field near White’s bridge are great - foundations of building: coins are often found too at the lowest edge - of the water, when the tide is gone off, and in dry seasons. On the - east side of the river has been a camp. Returning by Tilbridge lane, - upon the top of the heath is a spring, which they say flows and abates - with the tide in the Trent, though five miles off: the like is reported - of divers others hereabouts.</p> - - <p>From the place where the roads branch out, before spoken of, I - proceeded on the Hermen-street, northward, to Spittle on the street. - There are milliary stones set upon the road all the way: it is very - delightful riding, being wholly champaign, or heath. Of these stones I - believe some are Roman, others later crosses, perhaps to supply their - place: some <em>tumuli</em> scattered here and there. This place no doubt - was a mansion, because a little beck runs through it, arising hard by: - and it is ten miles from Lincoln; a convenient distance. I took the - bearing of the road just north and south. Here is an hospital, said to - be founded 1308, and great foundations all around, some of which are - probably Roman. At present the village consists of two farm-houses, a - chapel, an inn, and a sessions-house: three or four <em>tumuli</em> near - the town. Upon the chapel is a silly Latin inscription:</p> - - <table class="small"> - <tbody> - <tr> - <td><i>fui anno domini</i></td> - <td>1398</td> - <td rowspan="3" class="rbrace"> </td> - <td rowspan="3"><i>dom. dei & pauperum</i></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>non fui</i></td> - <td>1594</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>sum</i></td> - <td>1616</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="4" class="tdc"><div><i>Qui hanc Deus hunc destruet.</i></div></td> - </tr> - </tbody> - </table> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>16·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <div><b><i>The Scite of the Roman town at</i> Wintringham. <i>24. Iuly 1724.</i> <span class="smcap">Abontrvs.</span></b></div> - <img src="images/i_095.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - </figure> - - <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">95</span></p> - - <p>Upon the sessions-house,</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry" lang="la"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0"><i>Hæc domus odit, amat, punit, conservat, honorat,</i></div> - <div class="i2"><i>Equitiam, pacem, crimina, jura, bonos.</i> 1620.</div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">Underneath, a coat palè of six, on a bend three annulets, with the - arms of Ulster: over the door, <i lang="la">Fiat justitia</i> 1619. All this - whole country is a quarry just beneath the surface. Beyond Spittle - woodland begins: by Broughton, a vein of deep sand well planted with - coneys. At all these towns upon the Roman road, coins and antiquities - are found; Hibberstow, Gainsthorp, Broughton, Roxby, &c. at Sandton - has been a Roman pottery: between Scalby and Manton is a Roman camp: - in Appleby is a place called Julian’s Bower: at Kirton, John of Gaunt - had a seat: twenty-nine towns round about held of him in socage. I take - Broughton to be another station, because of its name, and that a brook - runs through it; so that the interval between Lincoln and Wintringham - is conveniently divided into three parts, ten miles each, by Spittle - and Broughton, the whole being thirty Roman miles. Thornholm, a mitred - priory: there is but another in England, Spalding. Risby and Gokewell, - two nunneries; some small remains of both. To the left is Normanby, - where the late duke of Buckingham was born, and whence his title.</p> - - <p>We kept the road all the way, though sometimes it passes over little - bogs, and at last about Winterton is inclosed: it terminates in some - arable, where it is well nigh lost a mile south of <span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Wintringham</span> Ro. <i>town</i>.</span>Wintringham. - Upon a rising ground at the end of the Roman road, a little to the - right, and half a mile east of the present Wintringham, stood the old - Roman town, of which they have a perfect knowledge, and ploughed up - great foundations within memory: <span class="sidenote">TAB. [i XVI]. 2d Vol.</span>it is now a common, skirted by the - marshes upon the Humber: the soil hereabouts is clay. This site of Old - Wintringham, as called, was almost inclosed with water in its first - condition, having only a slip of land towards the Roman road as an - entrance: the valley westward between it and the town is now called - the Old Haven, where three elm-trees stand: the east is bounded by the - mouth of the Ankham, which I suppose is <em>ang</em> in British, broad, - <em>avon</em>, river, from its broad marshes. The city was ploughed - up six years ago, and great numbers of antiquities found, now lost; - great pavements, chimney-stones, &c. often breaking their ploughs: - in several places they found streets made of sea-sand and gravel. It - is a <em>peninsula</em> between the Humber and Ankham, and had most - opportunely a fine spring on the east side, which no doubt was embraced - by the Romans: it is likewise a great rarity in nature, arising so - near the sea in a clayey marsh: there is stone-work left round it, and - an iron ladle to drink at, which is done frequently by travellers, - as with a religious necessity. Several intakes have been made beyond - this city in memory of man, which drives the Humber farther off, and - increases the marsh: it is half a mile between it and old town. The old - haven-mouth is called Flashmire. This place is over-against Brough, - the Roman town on the Yorkshire shore; but it is rather more eastward: - so that with the tide coming in they ferried over very commodiously - thither, and even now they are forced to take the tide. <em>Buck-bean - trefoil</em> grows upon all the bogs hereabouts. The bearing of the end - of the Roman way is precisely north and south, as at Lincoln; so that - it is a true meridian line from the west end of the cathedral. The - present Wintringham is a dirty poor place, but still a corporation; - and the mayor is chosen only out of one street, next the old town, - where was a chapel: the bell of it now hangs in a wooden frame by the - pillory, and makes a most ridiculous appearance. Here is still a ferry - from a small creek kept<span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">96</span> open by some freshes; it was ill judged of - travellers to desert the old Roman way and ferry, and turn the road to - Barton, (where the Humber is much broader and very dangerous) for no - other reason but because it is somewhat nearer and over-against Hull: - but the saving three miles riding does not compensate for the time or - hazard of so uncouth a passage. I am persuaded the old name of this - station was <em>Abontrus</em>, the same as the name of the river, whence - they have formed the mimic Wintringham. Here is a vast jaw-bone or rib - of a whale, that has lain time out of mind, like that at St. James’s. - Wintringham church stands on the end of the Lincolnshire <em>Alpes</em>. - Well may the Humber take its name from the noise it makes: my landlord, - who is a sailor, says in a high wind it is incredibly great and - terrible, like the crash and dashing together of ships. The Roman way - beyond the Humber at Brough is continued in Yorkshire; but of its - progress that way I can say nothing at present, this being the northern - boundary of my expeditions.</p> - - <p>From the termination of the Hermen-street, just by the knoll of old - Wintringham, and the hedge on the side of a common, a lesser vicinal - branch of a Roman road goes directly west to Aukborough, passing over - Whitton brook. All the ground hereabouts terminates at the Humber in - longitudinal ridges going north and south, and all steep like a cliff - to the west, plain and level eastward. Aukborough I visited, because - I suspected it the <span class="sidenote smcap">Aquis.</span><i>Aquis</i> of the Romans, in Ravennas, and I was - not deceived; for I presently descried the Roman <em>castrum</em>.<a id="FNanchor_83" href="#Footnote_83" class="fnanchor">[83]</a> - <span class="sidenote">TAB. XVII. 2d Vol.</span>There are two little <em>tumuli</em> upon the end of the road entering - the town. The Roman castle is square, three hundred foot each side, the - entrance north: the west side is objected to the steep cliff hanging - over the Trent, which here falls into the Humber; for this castle is - very conveniently placed in the north-west angle of Lincolnshire, as a - watch-tower over all Nottinghamshire and Yorkshire, which it surveys. - Hence you see the Ouse coming from York, and downward the Humber mouth, - and all over the isle of Axholm. Much salt-marsh is gained from all - these rivers, though now and then they reclaim and alter their course. - Then they discover the subterraneous trees lodged here at the Deluge - in great abundance, along the banks of all the three rivers: the wood - is hard and black, and sinks like a stone. Here are likewise other - plentiful reliques of the Deluge in the stones, viz. sea-shells of all - sorts, where a <em>virtuoso</em> might furnish his cabinet: sometimes a - stone is full of one sort of shell, sometimes of another; sometimes, - of little globules like the spawn of fishes: I viewed them with great - pleasure. I am told the camp is now called Countess Close, and they - say a countess of Warwick lived there; perhaps owned the estate;<a id="FNanchor_84" href="#Footnote_84" class="fnanchor">[84]</a> - but there are no marks of building, nor I believe ever were. The - <em>vallum</em> and ditch are very perfect: before the north entrance is - a square plot called the Green, where I suppose the Roman soldiers lay - <em>pro castris</em>: in it is a round work, formed into a labyrinth, - which they call Julian’s Bower. The church is of good stone, has a - square tower, but the choir ruinous, excluded by a wooden partition: - between it and the way to the marshes, a good spring rising out of the - cliff. I dare say no antiquary ever visited this place since the Romans - left it; for the people were perfectly ignorant of any matters we could - inquire about; and as to finding coins, &c. they would make us no other - answer than laughing at us: <span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">97</span>but I heard since, from other good - hands, that they have been found here in great numbers.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>17·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <div><b><i>Prospect of Aukborough</i> Aquis <i>of the Romans 24. July 1724.</i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_096.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div> - </figure> - - <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Julian’s Bower.</span></div> - - <p>Because I have frequently found these places called <em>Julian’s - Bower</em>, both at Roman towns and others, but especially very common - in Lincolnshire, I considered what should be the meaning of them, and - shall here give my thoughts about it. They are generally upon open - green places, by the side of roads or rivers, upon meadows and the like - near a town: the name often remains, though the place be altered and - cultivated; and the lovers of antiquity, especially of the inferior - class, always speak of them with great pleasure, and as if there were - something extraordinary in the thing, though they cannot tell what: - very often they are called <em>Troy town</em>. What generally appears at - present is no more than a circular work, made of banks of earth, in - the fashion of a maze or labyrinth; and the boys to this day divert - themselves with running in it one after another, which leads them by - many windings quite through and back again.</p> - - <p>Upon a little reflection I concluded that this is the ancient Roman - game; and it is admirable that both name and thing should have - continued through such a diversity of people; though now it is well - nigh perished, since the last age has discouraged the innocent and - useful sports of the common people, by an injudicious and unnecessary - zeal for religion, which has drove them into worse methods of - amusement. I imagine too this was a practice of the ancient Britons, - many of which were of Phrygian extract, coming from the borders of - Thrace; therefore derived it from the same fountain as the Romans: - this was upon their <em>maii campi</em>; but I shall not speak of them - here: and the Turks, I apprehend, learnt it hence; for it is their - diversion too. As to the name <em>bower</em>, it signifies not an arbor, - or pleasant shady retirement, in this place; but <em>borough</em>, or - any work made with ramparts of earth, as camps and the like: and it is - my thoughts, many works, which have been taken for camps, were only - made for this purpose; whereof two I met with in this journey, that - at Ashwel, and Maiden Bower near Dunstable. The name of <em>Julian</em> - undoubtedly refers to <em>Julus</em> the son of Æneas, who first brought - it into Italy, as is admirably described by Virgil in his V. Æneid. and - kept up by the Romans with great pomp and annual festivity: Augustus - was particularly fond of it, and took it as a compliment to his family. - That they call these places <em>Troy town</em>, proves the same. Hear the - poet:</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza" lang="la"> - <div class="i0"><i>Hunc morem hos cursus atque hæc certamina primus</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Ascanius, longam muris cum cingeret Albam</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Rettulit, & priscos docuit celebrare Latinos.</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Quo puer ipse modo, secum quo Troia pubes.</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Albani docuere suos, hinc maxima porro</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Accepit Roma & patrium servavit honorem:</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Trojaque nunc pueri Trojanum dicitur agmen.</i></div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0">This game long since, this martial exercise</div> - <div class="i0">Ascanius brought, when Alba’s walls he rear’d.</div> - <div class="i0">Whence the old Latins celebrate the same,</div> - <div class="i0">As he a lad, with him the Trojan youth.</div> - <div class="i0">The Albans taught it theirs: from them great Rome</div> - <div class="i0">Learnt it, and to their country’s honour call</div> - <div class="i0">The game <em>Troy town</em>, the boys the <em>Trojan band</em>.</div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">I conceive this game was of two sorts; that performed on foot; that - on horse-back, or in chariots: the intent of both was to exercise - the youth<span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">98</span> in warlike activity, for it was a sort of mock fight: - that on foot was the <em>Pyrrhic</em> dance. Suetonius says, <i lang="la">lusus - ipse quem vulgo Pyrrhicum appellant Troja vocatur</i>. If we carry - it up to its first original, we must affirm it was invented by - the <em>Corybantes</em>, <em>Idei dactyli</em>, <em>Curetes</em>, whose - institution, when confirmed among the Romans, was continued by - the priests called <em>Salii</em>, dancing in armour, and clashing - their weapons together with some sort of concert. Likewise the real - soldiers had the same festival, which they called <em>armilustrium</em>, - celebrated on the 19. Octob. of which Varro gives us an account <em>de - lingua Lat.</em> Suetonius mentions it in <em>Tiberio</em>, c. 72. This, - whether performed on foot or horse-back, by children, priests or - soldiers, was manifestly the same thing: their gestures, turnings, - returnings, knots and figures, their assaults, retreat, and the like, - were aptly represented by mazes and labyrinths; which very comparison - Virgil uses.</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza" lang="la"> - <div class="i0"><i>Ut quondam Cretâ fertur labyrinthus in altâ,</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Parjetibus textum cæcis iter, ancipitemque</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Mille viis habuisse dolum, qua signa sequendi</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Falleret indeprensus & irremeabilis error.</i></div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0">Such was in Crete the labyrinth of yore,</div> - <div class="i0">In crooked tracks immur’d, a thousand ways</div> - <div class="i0">Doubtful and dark: whence the return obscure,</div> - <div class="i0">Inextricable, in endless mazes lost.</div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">It is likely these works of ours, made in the turf, were cast up, in - order to teach the children the method of it. That on foot is elegantly - described by Claudian <i>de</i> VI. <i>consul. Honorii</i>, v. 622.</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza" lang="la"> - <div class="i0"><i>Armatos hic sæpe choros, certaque vagandi</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Textas lege fugas, inconfusosque recursus,</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Et pulchras errorum artes, jucundaque Martis</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Cernimus: insonuit cum verbere signa magister.</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Mutatosque edunt pariter tot pectora motus,</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>In latus allisis clypeis, aut rursus in altum</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Vibratis. grave parma sonat mucronis acuti</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Murmure, & umbonum pulsu modulante resultans</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Ferreus alterno concentus clauditur ense.</i></div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0">Here have I seen the armed rings revolve</div> - <div class="i0">In artful flights, in order then advance,</div> - <div class="i0">Attack, retire in all the forms of war,</div> - <div class="i0">Their eye still on the signal of the chief;</div> - <div class="i0">Then face about, ringing their brazen shields</div> - <div class="i0">Against their corslets, or uplifted high</div> - <div class="i0">Threaten the ecchoing skies; whilst steely blades</div> - <div class="i0">Harsh murmur, and the clanging targets sound</div> - <div class="i0">Alternate struck, the martial concert close.</div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">The equestrian games of this denomination required more room and - <em>apparatus</em> for spectators: therefore probably they fenced - in a larger space of ground, of a circular or oval form, with a - <em>vallum</em>, to keep the spectators at proper distance, and upon - which they might more commodiously behold the sport. This I suppose was - provided for by those bowers or burroughs mentioned, where there was - no ditch behind; for that would be dangerous, if the people crouding - one another, as is natural on those occasions, should thrust the - outermost from such an elevation: so that they were<span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">99</span> a larger sort of - amphitheatres, or circs: and this seems expressly intimated by the - great Mantuan in those verses,</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza" lang="la"> - <div class="i0"><i>Munera principio ante oculos circoque locantur</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>In medio ————</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Et tuba commissos medio canit aggere ludos.</i></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">These games on horseback he thus describes:</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza" lang="la"> - <div class="i0"><i>Olli discurrere pares, atque agmina terni</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Diductis solvere choris, rursusque vocati</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Convertere vias, infestaque tela tulere.</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Inde alios ineunt cursus aliosque recursus</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Adversis spatiis, alternosque orbibus orbes</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Impediunt, pugnæque cient simulachra sub armis.</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Et nunc terga fugâ nudant; nunc spicula vertunt</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Infensi, factâ pariter nunc pace feruntur.</i></div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0">They ride by pairs: the martial cavalcade</div> - <div class="i0">Triple battalions form, which open first</div> - <div class="i0">With adfront, and show of dreadful fight.</div> - <div class="i0">Then new careers they take, wheeling about</div> - <div class="i0">In various circles and self-ending orbs,</div> - <div class="i0">In all the mazy arts and forms of war;</div> - <div class="i0">Now turn their backs, and now afresh attack:</div> - <div class="i0">At length in peaceful order all march off.</div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">It seems that our tournaments, so much in fashion till queen - Elizabeth’s time, are remainders of these warlike diversions; and the - triple order, by which they were conducted, may possibly be imitated in - some degree by the common figure in dancing, called the <em>hedge</em>, - or the <em>hay</em>; both which I suppose are derived from the Saxon - <em>hæg</em>, perhaps from the Latin <em>agger</em>.</p> - - <p>We passed by the spring of old Wintringham and the Marsh at the mouth - of the Ankham, which is a vast tract of land left by the sea; and came - to Feriby sluice, a stately bridge of three arches, with sluices for - voidance of the water into the sea, but now broken down and lying in - dismal ruins by the negligence of the undertakers: whence travellers - are obliged to pass the river in a paltry short boat, commanded by a - little old deaf fellow with a long beard: into this boat you descend, - by the steep of the river, through a deep mirey clay, full of stones - and stakes; nor is the ascent on the other side any better, both - dangerous and difficult. This, with the hideous ruins of the bridge, - like the picture of hell gates in Milton, and the terrible roar of the - water passing through it, fitly represented Virgil’s description of - Charon’s ferry: nor would a poet wish for a better scene to heighten - his fancy, were he to paint out the horrors of the confines of hell.</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza" lang="la"> - <div class="i0"><i>Hinc via Tartarei quæ fert Acherontis ad undas.</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Turbidus hic cœno vastaque voragine gurges</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Æstuat, atque omnem Cocyto eructat arenam.</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Portitor has horrendus aquas & flumina servat</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Terribili squallore Charon, cui plurima mento</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Canicies inculta jacet</i> ————<span class="fright">Æn. vi.</span></div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0">Hence the way leads to Fereby forlorn,</div> - <div class="i0">Where Ankham’s oozy flood with hideous roar</div> - <div class="i0">Tears up the sands and sluices ruin’d vaults.</div> - <div class="i0">A squalid Charon the dread ferry plies</div> - <div class="i0">In leaky scull, whose furrow’d cheeks lie deep</div> - <div class="i0">With hoary beard insconc’d———</div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_100">100</span></p> - - <p class="noindent">When we had mounted the precipice again from the water, and paid our - naul to the inexorable ferryman, we had several clayey lakes to ride - over, unpassable in winter. Two roads<a id="FNanchor_85" href="#Footnote_85" class="fnanchor">[85]</a> lead you to the town, a sorry - ragged place, where upon the stocks is wrote, <em>Fear God, honour the - King</em>. The church is set respecting no points of the compass, and - just under the side of a precipice, so that you may almost leap from it - upon the steeple: when we climbed the hill, it was a long while before - we could find the way to Barton; and scarce could the people direct - us to it, though but two miles off: at length, after wandering some - time backward and forward, we hit upon the road, and, as men escaped - the Stygian pool, with pleasure surveyed Barton, riding all the way - through corn-fields, overlooking the Humber and Hull. Barton from hence - makes a pretty prospect, having two churches, several mills, and the - houses pleasantly intermixed with trees. This hill is wholly chalk, and - answered on the opposite shore by another of the same nature. This is - at present the passage across the Humber to Yorkshire, and we pleased - ourselves at this time only with the distant view of it, and the - neighbouring Hull: we could see the flag upon the castle.</p> - - <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Barrow.</span> British <i>temple</i>.</div> - - <p>At Barrow we were surprised with a castle, as the inhabitants call it, - upon the salt marsh: upon view of the works I wondered not that they - say it was made by Humber when he invaded Britain, in the time of the - Trojan Brutus; for it is wholly dissonant from any thing I had seen - before: but after sufficient <em>examen</em> I found it to be a temple of - the old Britons, therefore to be referred to another occasion. A little - eastward hence we visited Thornton college, a great abbey founded by - William le Gros earl of Albemarle 1139, the gate-house is very perfect; - a vast tower, <span class="sidenote">TAB. XVIII. 2d Vol.</span>or castle, wherein all methods of Gothic architecture for - offence and defence are employed: there is a great ditch before it, - across which a bridge with walls on each hand, and arches that support - a broad battlement to defend the access: before it two low round - towers: this stands oblique to the building, like the bridge at the - tower-gate, the better to keep off assailants by arrows shot through - many narrow loop-holes: there was a portcullis at the great gate, and - behind it another gate of oak: there are no windows in front: over it - are three old clumsy statues in as ordinary niches: a woman seeming a - queen, or the virgin Mary: to the right, a man with a lamb; I suppose, - St. John baptist: to the left, a bishop or abbot with a crosier: the - lamb is introduced in several other places: in the battlements above - the gate are the figures of men cut in stone, as looking down: on both - sides this tower goes a strong wall embattled, supported by internal - arches, with towers at proper distances: along the ditch within the - gate are spacious rooms and stair-cases of good stone and rib-work - arches. Upon taking down an old wall there, they found a man with a - candlestick, table and book, who was supposed to have been immured. - When you enter the spacious court, a walk of trees conducts you to the - ruins of the church: part of the south-east corner is left between the - choir and transept, and behind that some of the chapter-house, which - was octagonal: the whole plan of the church is easily discoverable, - and round about it the foundations of a quadrangle, and lodgings, to - the south of which now stands a dwelling-house, which I suppose was - the abbot’s lodge: here are great moats and fish-ponds, subterraneous - vaults and passages; the whole monastery being encompassed by a deep - ditch and high rampart, to secure the religious from robbers, because - near the sea. A mile east of Thornton are the ruins of another great - castle, called Kelingholme.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_101">101</span> In Goswel parish northward is Burham, - a chapel now become a farm-house, which belonged to the monastery: in - the same parish, near the Humber, is Vere court, which belonged to the - ancient family of that name. Good land hereabouts, well wooded: they - find Roman coins all about. Two miles west of Thornton is a great Roman - camp, called <span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Yarborough.</span> Ro. <i>town</i>.</span>Yarborough, which surveys the whole hundred denominated - from it, and all the sea-coast. Vast quantities of Roman coins have - been found here: Mr. Howson, of Kenington hard by, has pecks of them, - many of Licinius.<a id="FNanchor_86" href="#Footnote_86" class="fnanchor">[86]</a></p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>18·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <div><b><i>Inside view of Thornton College gate house July 26 1724</i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_100_1.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>I Harris Scul.</i></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>19·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <img src="images/i_100_2.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp:</i></div> - <div><b><span class="large"><i>Prospect of</i> Caster Lincolnsh<sup>r</sup><span class="xsmall" style="margin-left: -0.3em;">:</span> <i>July 26 1724.</i></span> <i>A Roman Town.</i></b><br> - <span class="small">A. <i>a piece of the Roman wall of the castle.</i> - B. <i>the Spring.</i> C. <i>another piece of the Roman wall.</i></span></div> - </figure> - - <p class="clear">Hence we journeyed to Caster, upon another ridge of the downs, running - north and south, slaunting off eastward to the sea, and steep all the - way westward, reaching from the Humber to the Witham below Lincoln: a - vein of sand again, and alike stocked with rabbets, answering to that - on the other side the Ankham at Sandton, but a little more southward. - From the hill just above Caster you have an admirable prospect both - east and west; this way to the mouth of the Humber, the Spurnhead - promontory, the Sunk island, and the whole country of Holderness in - Yorkshire; that way, all the sea-coast of Lincoln stretched out in a - long bow, jutting into the sea, full of creeks and harbours: south and - west the whole county of Lincoln lies under the eye; but the height of - Lincoln minster particularly pleases, which is here seen by the edge of - the cliff south of Caster, and presents a very romantic landscape.</p> - - <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Caster.</span> Ro. <i>town</i>.</div> - - <p>The town of Caster is half way down this western steep; and in nothing - more, that I have seen, did the Romans show their fine genius for - choice of a station, than this:<span class="sidenote">TAB. XIX. 2d Vol.</span> there is a narrow promontory juts - forward to the west, being a rock full of springs, level at top; and on - this did they build their town. One may easily guess at the original - Roman scheme upon which it was founded, and now in the main preserved: - this whole town takes in three squares of full 300 feet each, two of - which are allotted to the castle, the third is an <em>area</em> lying - to the east before it, between it and the hill, which is still the - market-place: the streets are all set upon these squares, and at right - angles: at each end are two outlets, going obliquely at the corners - to the country round about, two above, two descending the hill thus - distributed: the north-east to the Humber mouth, south-east to Louth, - north-west to Wintringham, south-west to Lincoln. What is the meaning - of this place being called <em>Thongcaster</em>,<a id="FNanchor_87" href="#Footnote_87" class="fnanchor">[87]</a> among some others - in England, I know not; one in Kent: but it gave occasion to the same - fanciful report of its original, as queen Dido’s founding Carthage - upon as much ground as she could incompass with an ox’s hide cut into - <em>thongs</em>; and a person in the town told me there was an history - of the building Caster in <em>Virgil</em>, and offered to show it me. - I should not have thought this worth mentioning, had not Mr. Camden - spoke of it, as if he believed it to be true: but there can be no - doubt that this castle was built long before Hengist’s time; for I saw - enough of the old Roman wall to evince its founders: one great piece - stands on the verge of the church-yard; another by a house: there are - more behind the school-house in the pastures, and I have met with many - men that have dug at its foundations in several other places: it is - built of white rag-stone laid sometimes sideways, sometimes flat, in - mortar exceedingly hard, full of pebbles and sand; nor is it mixed to - any <span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">102</span>fineness: so that I conjecture it was the method of the Romans - to pour the mortar on liquid, as soon as the lime was slaked: thus - the heat and moisture, struggling together, created a most strict - union or attraction between the lime and stone, the motion favouring - their approximation; and the lime, no doubt, being made of the same - stone, promoted a more intimate union between the cement and the hard - materials by similitude of parts. I suppose this narrow tongue of land - was thus encompassed with a wall quite to the market-place, objecting - only its end to the plain before the hill, the rest standing upon the - stoney precipice. From under the<span class="sidenote">TAB. XX. 2d Vol.</span> castle-walls almost quite round rise - many quick springs; but Syfer spring is most famous, having now four - fluxes of water from between the joints of great stones laid flat like - a wall; and joined together with lead, probably first by the Romans, - for it is under their wall; shaded over with trees very pleasantly: - this is the morning and evening rendezvous of the servant-maids, where - consequently intelligence is given of all domestic news: they say, - within memory it ran much quicker, so that the water projected three - or four foot from the wall; others say, that originally it ran in one - stream like the sheet of a cascade. Syfer spring, no doubt, is the - Saxon <em>syfer</em>, pure, clean, as the stream here deserves to be - called. There is a place by the fold, south-west of the church, still - called Castle-hill, where many bodies have been dug up. I am inclinable - to think the meaning of <em>Thong-castle</em> to be fetched from <em>Thane - Degen</em>, Saxonicè, <em>miles</em>, <em>præfectus</em>, analogous to the - Latin <em>comes</em>.<a id="FNanchor_88" href="#Footnote_88" class="fnanchor">[88]</a> Here it is likely our Saxon ancestors placed a - garrison of troops to secure this country, as they conquered from the - Roman Britons. In the church is a monumental <em>effigies</em>, in stone, - of a knight of the name of Hundon; another, of a lady; another, of a - knight of St. John of Jerusalem, cross-legged.</p> - - <p>In Snarford church some fine monuments, in alabaster, of the family of - St. Paul’s. Return we now to Lindum.</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza" lang="la"> - <div class="i0"><i>Sol medium cœli conscenderat igneus orbem</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Cum muros arcemque procul & rara domorum</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Tecta vides, modo quæ Romana potentia cœlo</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Æquavit</i>————<span class="fright"><span class="smcap">Virg.</span> Æ. viii.</span></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">A mile north upon the Foss is a <em>tumulus</em> of hard stone, called - the Castle.</p> - - <p>From hence I determined to proceed to London all the way on the Roman - road, which perhaps has not been so scrupulously travelled upon for - this thousand years: the intent, which I executed, was to perform the - whole sixth journey in Antoninus his Itinerary; of which I shall give - as complete an account as can be expected, considering how totally most - of the stations here are erased, and that I was resolved so far to - imitate an ancient traveller, as to dine and lie at a Roman town all - the way if possible, and sometimes in danger of faring as meanly as a - Roman soldier: nor could I always readily say,</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry" lang="la"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0"><i>Longum iter hic nobis minuit mutatio crebra,</i></div> - <div class="i2"><i>Mansio sub noctem claudit ubique diem.</i></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">Add to this, that the whole was new to me; that I had almost every - place to find out; that I was alone, and had no other guide than what - Mr. Gale has pointed out to us, who is the first that hit upon the true - notion of this road: and I doubt not but the reader’s candour will - overlook the errors or imperfections of this simple narration, of what - I could observe myself, <span class="pagenum" id="Page_103">103</span>and fish out from the uncouth relations of - the country people, who, for one half of the way, had never heard of - enquiries of this sort since any memory, and were too apt to be morose - upon that occasion, thinking I had some design upon their farms in my - inquisitiveness.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp68 mb4"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>20·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <img src="images/i_102_1.jpg" alt=""> - <div><b>Syfer Spring <i>at Caster in Lincolnsh<sup>r</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span> July 26. 1724. (a Roman Work.)</i></b></div> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall fe.</i></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb3"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>21·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <div><b><span class="large"><i>Prospect of</i> Crocolana <i>from Potter hill. Sept. 7. 1722.</i></span><br> - <span class="small">A. <i>Brough the Roman City.</i> B. <i>Newark.</i> C. <i>the cliff by the Trent.</i> D. <i>Potter hill.</i></span></b></div> - <img src="images/i_102_2.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div> - </figure> - - <p class="clear">This<span class="sidenote"><em>Foss</em> road.</span> journey proceeds from Lincoln upon the great Foss road, as it - tends to the Bath quite through Nottinghamshire and Leicestershire (but - most terribly defaced) till it meets with and crosses (having gone - sixty miles) the great Watling-street coming from Chester, and going - to Dover, at High-cross in Warwickshire: hence to London, about ninety - miles more, I went upon this Watling-street, which completes that - journey of the Itinerary.</p> - - <p>I apprehend the <em>Foss</em> is the name transmitted through the - British, which comes from <em>digging</em>, as being an artificial - road; whence they are often called <em>dikes</em>, a word of contrary - significations, as the Latin <em>altus</em>.<a id="FNanchor_89" href="#Footnote_89" class="fnanchor">[89]</a> Descending southwards, - where the Foss parts with the Hermen-street below Lincoln, by the abbey - without the most southern gate, and passing over the river Witham - by Bracebridge, before it comes to Lincoln; I soon perceived myself - upon the Foss road, by its strait ridge carried over the barren moory - ground, by a mill near Stickham. Hard by lies a stone cross of good - height, of one piece, vulgarly called Robin Hood’s Whetstone upon the - Foss, and is called sometimes the three-mile stone. The elevation of - the road is still preserved, the common road going round about: it - is much overgrown with goss, and the moor but thinly so; its strait - length easily distinguishable for that reason: it butts a good deal - to the east of Lincoln. Between Bracebridge and its union with the - Hermen way, some pavement is left of flag-stone set edgewise: the - road beyond the moor goes through the inclosures of Hikeham and - Thorp, then enters Morton lane, very pleasantly set on both sides - with woods full of game.<a id="FNanchor_90" href="#Footnote_90" class="fnanchor">[90]</a> And so journeying to the space of about - twelve Roman miles, I found Collingham on my right hand: there is a - high barrow or <em>tumulus</em> called Potters hill, where they say was - a Roman pottery: it stands upon an eminence commanding a prospect - both ways upon the road. Half a mile farther is Brough, the undoubted - <span class="sidenote smcap">Crocolana.</span><em>Crocolana</em> of the Romans: it is three miles North of Newark. - Great plenty of wild Saffron grows hereabouts; whence I once thought - the name came, signifying the saffron field, from the Celtic word, a - field or inclosure (<em>lhan.</em>)<span class="sidenote">TAB. XXI. 2d Vol.</span> In the later times of the empire, - when they shortened words, it was called <em>Colana</em>; and some critic - restoring <em>Croco</em> to it, doubled the second syllable; whence it - is found in Antoninus his Itinerary, <em>Crococolanum</em>: but I judge - Mr. Baxter’s derivation of it is right, <em>ericetum pulchrum</em>: the - ground is very woody and pleasant, and full of goss or heath, in Welsh - <em>grûg</em>. From <em>Colana</em>, Collinghams, two miles off, probably - had their name,<a id="FNanchor_91" href="#Footnote_91" class="fnanchor">[91]</a> springing up from its ruins, as well as Newark, the - Saxons approaching nearer the water side; the Trent and the Foss road - being neglected, which supported the Roman town by travellers chiefly. - Collinghams stand upon a mere or rivulet, abounding with springs called - the Fleet, running into the Trent. The lands at Collingham belong - to Peterborough church; probably the gift of some king:<a id="FNanchor_92" href="#Footnote_92" class="fnanchor">[92]</a> they - have a report, that one arch of South Collingham <span class="pagenum" id="Page_104">104</span>church came from - Brough, which is probably true of the whole: they say Collingham was a - market-town before Newark; and that Brough was a famous place in time - of the Danes, who destroyed it in Edmund Ironside’s days. Danethorp is - hard by, the seat lately of lady Grey.</p> - - <p>At Brough no Roman token visible, but the remarkable straitness of all - the roads and by-lanes thereabouts: the city has been most perfectly - levelled by the plough, so that the mark of ridge and furrow remains - in the very road: the hedge-rows were planted since. Were it not for - many distinguishing tokens, one may be apt to conclude as Floras did, - <i lang="la">laborat annalium fides ut Veios fuisse credamus</i>. They say here - was a church upon a place called chapel-yard, and a font was once taken - up there. The old landlady at the little ale-house, which is the only - house there, till Thomas Cope’s and another were lately built, says, - that where her fire-place is, the cross once stood; and that the whole - is fairy ground, and very lucky to live on. There have been many Roman - coins dug up here, and all the way between it and Newark:<a id="FNanchor_93" href="#Footnote_93" class="fnanchor">[93]</a> I bought - a large brass <em>Faustina junior</em>, lately found in the corn-field - over-against the ale-house: in digging too they find great foundations, - for half a mile together, on each side the road, with much rusty iron, - iron ore and iron cinders; so that it is probable here was an eminent - Roman forge. Across the road was a vast foundation of a wall, and part - still remains: out of one hole they showed me, has been dug up ten or - fifteen load of stone; so that it should seem to have been a gate: the - stones at the foundation are observed to be placed edgewise, and very - large ones, but not of a good sort: this was the method the Romans - justly thought most convenient, in this springy soil; for the springs - rise here, all about, within two foot of the surface. They told me some - very large copper Roman coins have been found here, and silver too, and - many pots, urns, bricks, &c. they call the money Brough pennies. The - earl of Stanford is lord of the manor, and all is copy-hold, probably - originally in the crown. The country people have a notion that the Foss - road is the oldest in England, and that it was made by William the - Conqueror. This is all that I could learn of this city, which I thought - no contemptible gleaning from the shipwreck of time; for</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza" lang="la"> - <div class="i0"><i>Jam seges est ubi Troja fuit</i>——</div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">is true of all the stations of this whole journey, more or less; and I - was glad when any part of the harvest might be applied to the gathering - of antiquities. From hence the road goes extremely strait to Newark - between hedge-rows, having the steeple before us as a visto: but, much - to their disgrace, it is in very ill repair; nay, in some places they - dig the very stone and gravel out of it to mend their streets.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Newark.</div> - - <p>Newark was certainly raised from the neighbouring Roman cities, and has - been walled about with their remains: the northern and eastern gate, - still left, are composed of stones seemingly of a Roman cut; and not - improbably the Romans themselves had a town here; for many antiquities - are found round about it,<a id="FNanchor_94" href="#Footnote_94" class="fnanchor">[94]</a> especially by the Foss side, which runs - quite through the town. My friend the reverend Mr. Warburton, of this - place, gave me a <span class="pagenum" id="Page_105">105</span>coin or two dug up here; and likewise this further - information, that lately a gentleman (Mr. Holden) digging to plant some - trees by the Foss road side, discovered four urns lying in a strait - line, and at equal distances: they were soon broke in pieces by the - workmen, imagining to find treasure therein: in one there was only a - rude piece of brass, about the bulk of a small walnut, half melted - down, with a bit of bone and some of the ashes sticking in the surface - thereof, amidst the other burnt bones and ashes: he conjectured that - it was a <em>fibula</em> belonging to the habit of the dead: there were - square earthen beads in others, which seem to be British: in another - was a small brass <em>lar</em> about an inch and half long, but much - consumed by rust: he told me likewise a pot of Roman money was found at - Carlton-scrope near them. There are two fine stone crosses at Newark: - the market-place is a spacious square: the church is very large and - handsome, with a very high steeple.<a id="FNanchor_95" href="#Footnote_95" class="fnanchor">[95]</a></p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_104"> - <div class="plateno"><i>90</i></div> - <div><b><i>A Prospect of</i> Ad Pontem <i>upon the Eminence. A Mile South on the Foss. Sep. 7. 1722.</i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_104.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>W. Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div> - <div class="small">a. <i>Old work Spring.</i> b. <i>the Foss</i> c. <i>a Tumulus</i> RR. <i>the Roman City.</i></div> - </figure> - - <p>From Newark the Foss passes by Queen’s Sconce, one of the great forts - erected in the civil wars, and so along the Trent side by Stoke, famous - for a battle, and an inn called the Red inn. We arrived, at about six - miles distance south of Newark, to the station of the Romans called - <span class="sidenote smcap">Ad Pontem.</span><i lang="la">Ad pontem</i>. East Bridgford lies near a mile to the right upon - the river Trent:<span class="sidenote">TAB. XC.</span> doubtless there was the bridge over the river, which - created the denomination, in the Roman times, as being the passage from - the eastern parts to those beyond the Trent: and as to this particular - station upon the road, perhaps a bridge was the sign of the inn, that - travellers might know where to turn out for that purpose, for I cannot - suppose here was a bridge at the road. At Bridgford they told us there - were formerly great buildings and cellars on the right as you descend - to the Trent, and a quay upon the river for vessels to unlade at.<a id="FNanchor_96" href="#Footnote_96" class="fnanchor">[96]</a> - The Roman station upon the Foss I found to be called Boroughfield, - west of the road: here a spring arises under the hedge, called Oldwork - spring, very quick, running over a fine gravel; the only one hereabouts - that falls eastward, not directly into the neighbouring Trent, towards - Newton. Hereabouts I saw the Roman foundations of walls, and floors - of houses, composed after the manner before spoken, of stones set - edgewise in clay, and liquid mortar run upon them: there are likewise - short oaken posts or piles at proper intervals, some whereof I pulled - up with my own hands. Dr. Batteley tells us of oak very firm, found - at Reculver, under the Roman cisterns: the earth all around looks - very black: they told us that frequently the stones were laid upon - a bed of pease-straw and rush-rope or twisted hay, which remained - very perfect. Houses stood all along upon the Foss, whose foundations - have been dug up, and carried to the neighbouring villages. They told - us too of a most famous pavement near the Foss way: close by, in a - pasture, Castle-hill close, has been a great building, which they say - was carried all to Newark. John Green <span class="pagenum" id="Page_106">106</span>of Bridgeford, aged 80, told me - that he has taken up large foundations there, much ancient coin, and - small earthen pipes for water: his father, aged near 100, took up many - pipes fourscore yards off the castle, and much fine free-stone: some - well cut and carved: there have been found many urns, pots, and Roman - bricks; but the people preserved none of them; and some that had coins - would by no means let us see them, for fear we were come from the lord - of the manor. About a mile farther is a <em>tumulus</em> upon an eminence - of the road beyond Bingham lane, a fine prospect to Belvoir castle, - Nottingham, the Trent, &c. whence I took a small sketch of the road we - had passed, regretting the oblivion of so many famous antiquities.</p> - - <p>In my journey forwards, upon the declension of a stiff clayey hill, - near the lodge upon the wolds, an inn under a great wood. The pavement - upon the road is very manifest, of great blue flag-stones laid edgewise - very carefully: the quarries whence they took them are by the side - of the hill: this pavement is a hundred foot broad, or more; but all - the way thence it has been intirely paved with red flints, seemingly - brought from the sea-coasts: these are laid, with the smoothest face - upwards, upon a bed of gravel over the clayey marl, which reaches - beyond Margidunum; that we may well say,</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza" lang="la"> - <div class="i0"><i>O quantæ pariter manus laborant!</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Hi cædunt nemus, exuuntque montes.</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Hi ferro scopulos trabesque cædunt</i>, &c.<span class="fright"><span class="smcap">Stat. Sylv.</span> iv.</span></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">This pavement is very broad, and visible where not covered with dirt, - and especially in the frequent breaches thereof. They preserve a report - still, that it was thus paved all the way from Newark to Leicester, - and that the Foss way went through Leicester shambles: the yard of the - lodge in the wold is paved with these same stones plundered from the - road. June 15, 1728, Mr. L. Hurst, of Grantham, told me he saw at Mr. - Gascoign’s, a goldsmith in Newark, a large gold ring weighing 42s. - lately brought him by a countryman, which he found upon the Foss-way. - There was a seal upon the gold; a fox (he thought) engraved under a - tree. Afterward I bought the seal: it is a wolf under a tree. Perhaps - Norman. AD PONTEM.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Margidvnvm.</div> - - <div class="sidenote">TAB. XCI.</div> - - <p>Willughby brook is the next water. When arrived over-against Willughby - on the wold on the right, Upper and Nether Broughton on the left, you - find a <em>tumulus</em> on Willughby side of the road, famous among - the country people: it is called Cross hill: upon this they have an - anniversary festival: the road parts the two lordships; but the name - of Broughton set me to work to find the Roman town, among the people - getting in harvest. After some time I perceived I was upon the spot, - being a field called Henings, by which I suppose is meant the ancient - meadows: this is upon the brow of the hill overlooking Willughby brook, - rising in Dalby lordship, and playing in pretty meanders along a valley - between corn-fields, with a moderate water unless raised by rains. - Here they said had been an old city, called Long Billington: it is - often called the Black field in common discourse, from the colour and - excessive richness of the soil, so that they never lay any manure upon - it. Here is a place called Thieves, and on the other side of the valley - a place called Wells, near where now a barn stands: and all this length - they say the city reached, and that there was a church on the top of - Wells; but the city was mostly on Willughby side; for the land on the - other side in Broughton lordship is poor, whilst this is luxuriant to - the last degree; so that a farmer once happening to set his sheep-fold - here,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_107">107</span> it rotted the corn upon the spot; and often he has been - forced to mow the blade before it spindled (in their way of talking.) - The soil is perfectly black, though all the circumjacent land be red, - especially north of the valley upon the edge of the hill, and where - most antiquities are found; which certainly was the true place, whence - the Roman name, signifying a marly hill. Richard Cooper, aged 72, has - found many brass and silver coins here: there have been some of gold. - They have a notion of great riches being under ground, and a vulgar - report that one balk, or mere, (i. e. a division between the ploughed - fields) has as much money under it, as would purchase the whole - lordship: but people have been frighted from digging it by spirits; - and several pleasant stories are told thereupon. They have likewise - a tradition that the city was destroyed by <em>thieves</em>, perhaps - from the place so called. Many Mosaic pavements have been dug up: my - landlord Gee of Willughby says, he has upon ploughing met with such - for five yards together, as likewise coins, pot-hooks, fire-shovels - and the like utensils, and many large brass coins, which they took for - weights, ounces and half-ounces, but upon trial found them somewhat - less. Broad stones and foundations are frequent upon the side of the - Foss: several found at Wells. The ground naturally is so stiff a marl, - that at Willughby town they pave their yards with stones, fetched from - the Foss way even to the slope of their pits, for the cattle to drink - at. At Over and Nether Broughton, and Willughby too, the coins are so - frequent, that you hear of them all the country round. There is a fine - prospect from Wells hill every way, whence I drew a little view of the - place.<span class="sidenote">TAB. XI.</span> In Willughby town is a handsome cross of one stone, five yards - long: in the time of the reforming rebellion the soldiers had tied - ropes about it to pull it down; but the vicar persuaded them to commute - for some strong beer, having made an harangue to show the innocence - thereof. Richard Cooper likewise told me of a pot of Roman money found - at Wilford near Nottingham.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_106"> - <div class="plateno"><i>91</i></div> - <div><b>Prospect of Margidunum from Wells hill <i>by y<sup style="margin-left: -0.4em;">e</sup> Barn - upon</i> Foss <i>Sept. 8. 1722. Nobilissimo Principi Duci Kingstoniæ &c.</i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_106.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>W. Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div> - <div><b>To face <span class="smcap">Nether Broughton</span></b></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp68 mb4" id="i_107"> - <div class="plateno"><i>11</i></div> - <div><b>CROSSES</b></div> - <img src="images/i_107.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div> - <div><a href="#t_107">See transcription</a></div> - </figure> - - <p>So much for Margidunum, of which we may say,</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry" lang="la"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0"><i>Nunc passim vix relliquias vix nomina servans.</i></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p>In passing forwards towards Leicester, between here and the river Wrek, - I found the Foss road began to be very obscure, not only where it - has been ploughed up in some places, but where it goes over a grassy - common: the reason is, travellers have quite worn it away, because of - the badness of the roads; and the negligence of the people so far from - repairing it, that they take away the materials. Moreover, you are oft - in danger of losing it through the many intersections of cross roads; - and sometimes it is inclosed with pastures, or passes under the sides - of a wood: therefore upon every hill-top I made an observation of some - remarkable object on the opposite high ground, which continued the - right line; so that by going strait forwards I never failed of meeting - it again. I observed too, that at such a time of the day exactly, the - sun was perpendicular to the road; for it continues the same bearing - throughout: this I tried by the compass soon after I left Lincoln, - and when I came to High-cross, where it crosses the Watling-street, - and at intermediate places; finding it always butted upon the same - degree, to surprising exactness. At Abketilby in the vale of Belvoir, - and thereabouts, in the quarries is a vein of rag-stone wholly made of - shells, covered with a thin vein of good hewing stone: this is in one - corner of that great vale, under the Lincolnshire <em>Alpes</em>.</p> - - <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Shipley-Hill</span> Br <i>barrow</i>.</div> - - <p>At Cossington (just before I came to the river Wrek, parting the - counties) is a vast barrow, 350 foot long, 120 broad, 40 high or near - it: it is very handsomely worked up on the sides, and very steep: it - seems to have<span class="pagenum" id="Page_108">108</span> lost some of its length at both ends, especially the - northern, a torrent running close by: it stands exactly north and - south, upon the very edge of the ings; and in wet times it must be - almost incompassed with water: they call it Shipley hill, and say a - great captain called Shipley was buried there. I doubt not but this is - of great antiquity, and Celtic, and that the intent of it is rightly - preserved by the country people; but as to the name of him I can say - nothing. On the top are several oblong double trenches cut in the - turf, where the lads and lasses of the adjacent villages meet upon - Easter-Monday yearly, to be merry with cakes and ale. I observed upon - the Foss, all along, that in almost every parish were such like tables, - for the same purpose; and such a one I formerly found at Rowldrich - stones in Oxfordshire. Near this place, at Radcliff, so called from the - road, it seems that the Foss road passes over this brook, and filling - up its cavity, made it necessary to cut a new channel, that the road - might run strait, and like the Roman <em>terminus</em> give place to - nothing. Having passed the river, it proceeds over the meadows: just - beyond them is a large round <em>tumulus</em>, which I suppose Roman: - then the road goes strait through Thumarton, and ends full upon the - east gate of Leicester. But before we speak of this station, we must - with the Itinerary make an excursion to take in <em>Vernometum</em>.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Vernometum.</div> - - <div class="sidenote">TAB. XXII 2d Vol.</div> - - <p>There seems to be no Roman way between <em>Ratæ</em> and - <em>Vernometum</em>;<a id="FNanchor_97" href="#Footnote_97" class="fnanchor">[97]</a> but coming from <em>Margidunum</em>, you turn out - of the road by Sison over-against Radcliffe before mentioned. This - place is Borough, or Erdborough, i. e. the earthy camp, in Gartre - hundred east of Leicester. It is a very great Roman camp upon a very - high hill, the north-west tip of a ridge of hills, and higher than any - other part of it, of a most delightful and extensive prospect, reaching - as far as Lincoln one way: the fortification takes in the whole summit - of the hill; the high rampire is partly composed of vast loose stones - piled up and covered with turf: it is of an irregular figure, humouring - the form of the ground, nearly a square, and conformed to the quarters - of the heavens: its length lies east and west, the narrowest end - eastward: it is about 800 foot long, and for the most part there is a - ditch besides the rampire, to render the ascent still more difficult - to assailants: the entrance is south-west at a corner from a narrow - ridge: here two rampires advance inwards, like the sides of a gate, - for greater strength: within is a rising hill about the middle, and - they say that vaults have been found thereabouts. Antiquarians talk - of a temple, which possibly may have been there, and in the time of - the Britons: thus the old <em>Fanum</em> of Apollo at Delphos was in a - concavity on the top of a hill. The name of <em>Vernometum</em> signifies - a sacred plain, as they tell us from authority. It contains about - sixteen acres: several springs rise from under the hill on all sides, - and I observed the rock thereof is composed intirely of sea-shells: - they frequently carry away the stones that form the rampires, to mend - the roads with. The town itself is now but a small village. There is - another Roman castle southward near Tilton, but not so big as Borough - hill: a petrifying spring near it, and a Roman road, as thought, - called Long Hedges. I am not without suspicion that the true name is - <em>Verometum</em>, and must be sought for somewhere near a river.</p> - - <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Ratæ</span> Coritanorum.</div> - - <div class="sidenote">TAB. XCII.</div> - - <p>Leicester is the <em>Ratæ Coritanorum</em> of the Romans. The trace - of the Roman wall quite round is discoverable without difficulty, - especially in the gardens about Senvy gate: there was a ditch on the - outside, very visible in <span class="pagenum" id="Page_109">109</span>the gardens thereabouts: it - is 2500 Roman feet long, and as much broad towards the south-east, 2000 - Roman feet broad to the north-west: this was repaired by Edelfleda, - a noble Saxon lady, anno 914. but the stories in Mr. Camden, of the - piles it stood on, and the indissoluble tenacity of the mortar, seem - meant of the Roman work. The streets run in the manner we observed - of <em>Camboritum</em>, the length of the city being from north-west - to south-east. There is a Roman musive pavement in a cellar, in part - remaining, of a person standing by a deer, Cupid drawing his bow, - delineated in differently-coloured small stones as usual.<a id="FNanchor_98" href="#Footnote_98" class="fnanchor">[98]</a> The - old work called Jewry wall is composed of rag-stone and Roman brick:<span class="sidenote">TAB. LV.</span> - several fragments and foundations are in all the houses hereabouts of - this building, whatever it were, as well as in the adjacent church,<span class="sidenote">TAB. XXIII. 2d Vol.</span> - which seems to be built in the very <em>area</em> of it, and out of its - ruins. Not far off is a place called Holy Bones, where abundance of - bones of oxen have been dug up, the <em>exuvia</em> of their sacrifices: - this is however a most noble piece of Roman antiquity, and I lament - it should be so much abused. Many Roman coins are found at Leicester: - at the entrance into White Friers a pot full dug up about five - years ago, and many great foundations. At St. Mary de Pree’s abbey - they dug up a body, about three years ago, which they supposed to - be cardinal Wolsey’s: in this abbey is nought worth seeing, but a - pleasant terrace-walk, supported by an embattled wall, with lunettes - hanging over the river and shadowed with trees. The little remains of - the old building are new modelled by later hands, and scarce to be - distinguished: it was made a dwelling-house since the Dissolution; and - that is now spoiled of floors, roof, and windows; and the naked walls - are left to daily ruin and pillage: the spot of the abbey is turned - into a garden: they show us a place in it, where has been much search - for the famous cardinal’s body; but it did not seem to me a likely - place. The church, though wholly erased, did not probably come out - so far toward the river: indeed there is thorough work made of all - the religious houses at Leicester, and scarce one stone left in its - original site. St. Margaret’s church was a bishop’s see in the time of - the Saxon kings. Within the castle is a collegiate hospital, founded - by Henry earl of Lancaster, who with his son Henry duke of Lancaster - lie buried in the chapel: the church was very fine, demolished in the - Suppression. Here, say some, was buried Richard III. this castle was - built by Simon de Montfort. There is a very pretty arch reaching across - the river, called Bowbridge, at Black Friers, under which they have a - notion that king Richard III. was buried; which seems to allude to the - British romance that tells of king Lear being buried here. Half a mile - southward from Leicester, upon the edge of the meadows is a long ditch - called Rawdikes:<span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Rawdikes</span> <i>a</i> Br. <i>cursus</i>.</span> upon view of the place I found it to be a British - <em>cursus</em>. King Charles I. when besieging Leicester, lay at the - vicarage-house at Elston;<span class="sidenote">TAB. XXIV. XXV. XXVI. XXVII. 2d Vol.</span> and during the storm of the town, when his - men took and pillaged it, he stood, as they report, upon the banks of - this Rawdikes. About February 1721–2. a tesselated pavement was found - the other side the river, about Wanlip, with coins of Constantine, - broken urns, a human scull, &c. a foundation by it, doubtless of the - house that covered it.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4"> - <div><b><i>Prospect of</i> Burrow hill <i>from the Leicester - road. Sep<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span> 8. 1722.</i> <span class="smcap" style="margin-left: 3em;">Vernometvm.</span></b></div> - <div class="left xsmall" style="border: solid 1px; width: 23em; padding: 0.5em;"><i>Key found at Burrow Hill<br>T. Lyus Delin.<br> - from Rev<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span> G Ashby’s Museolum at Barrow Suffolk. 1791</i></div> - <img src="images/i_108_1.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div> - <div><b>Will<sup>o</sup><span class="xsmall" style="margin-left: -0.4em;">:</span> Cheselden Chirurgo peritissimo, Amico <i>Tab. dd. W. Stukeley</i>.</b></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp68 mb4" id="i_108_2"> - <div class="plateno"><i>92</i></div> - <div><b>RATÆ Coritanorum.<br><i class="small">8. Sep. 1722.</i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_108_2.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_109_1"> - <div class="plateno"><i>55</i></div> - <div class="large"><b><i>The Roman Building commonly called the Temple of Janus at Leicester.</i></b></div> - <img class="mt1" src="images/i_109_1.jpg" alt=""> - <div><i>Ne tantam Ruinam absorbeat Inimica Ætas aq. forti fecit. W<sup>s</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.4em;">.</span> - Stukeley & Sam<sup>i</sup> Gale Ar. consecratā voluit. 1722.</i></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>23·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <div class="large"><b><i>The west side of the</i> roman building <i>at</i> <span class="smcap">Leicester</span> <i class="small">Sept: 8. 1722.</i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_109_2.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>24·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <img src="images/i_109_3.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>25·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <div><b><i>A Prospect of the British Cursus near Leicester, call’d Raw Dikes from the hills above. <span class="small">September 10. 1722.</span></i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_109_4.jpg" alt=""> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>26·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <div class="large"><b><i>The Side View of the British Cursus at Leicester Sep. 10. 1722.</i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_109_5.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>I. V<sup>der</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.6em;">.</span> Gucht Sculp.</i></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb2"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>27·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <div class="large"><b><i>A Prospect of the British Cursus at Leicester call’d Rawdikes from the other side - of y<sup>e</sup> River by the Foss road <span class="small">Sep. 9. 1722.</span></i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_109_6.jpg" alt=""> - </figure> - - <p>Soon after you go from Leicester, taking the Foss at Bronstongate, you - come to some inclosures and troublesome gates across the road: here - they have fenced it out into a narrow scantling, scarce the breadth - of a coach, to the shame as well as the detriment of the country, - suffering so scandalous <span class="pagenum" id="Page_110">110</span>an incroachment. I travelled by Narborough - on the west side of the river, and a very wet journey under foot for - one that was resolved to keep upon the road: sometimes I rode half - a mile up to the horse’s belly in water upon the Roman pavement. - The river Soar running near its east side, it is carried over many - bogs, quags, and springs, for miles together, with a visible pavement - of great round coggles by Sharnford, so called from the causeway: - approaching High-cross it enters inclosures again, and is crossed by - some more lakes scarce passable. Just upon the edge of Leicestershire - and Warwickshire, at High-cross, I met the Watling-street, my future conductor.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Benonis.</div> - - <div class="sidenote">TAB. XCIII.</div> - - <p>Benonis stands in the intersection of the two great Roman roads that - trathe kingdom obliquely, and seems to be the centre of England, - and highest ground; for from hence rivers run every way. The Foss - went across the back-side of the inn, and so towards Bath. The ground - hereabouts, the site of the ancient city, is very rich; and many - antiquities, stones, Roman bricks, &c. have been dug up: Roman coins - were found when they ploughed the field west of the cross.<a id="FNanchor_99" href="#Footnote_99" class="fnanchor">[99]</a> Much - <em>ebulus</em> grows here, sought for in cure of dropsies. Claybroke - lane has a bit of an old quick-set hedge left across it, betokening one - side of the Foss: the bearing of the Foss here is exactly north-east - and south-west, as upon the moor on this side Lincoln. In the garden - before the inn was a <em>tumulus</em> lately taken away: under it they - found the body of a man upon the plain surface, as likewise under - several others hereabouts upon the Watling-street. Foundations of - houses have been frequently dug up along the street here, all the - way to Cleycester. Here is a cross of handsome design, but of a - mouldering stone, through the villainy of the architect, one Dunkley, - built at the charge of the late earl of Denbigh, and the gentlemen in - the neighbourhood: it consists of four Doric columns regarding the - four roads, with a gilded globe and cross a-top upon a sun-dial: on - two sides, between the four Tuscan pillars, that compose a sort of - pedestal, are these inscriptions.</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza" lang="la"> - <div class="i0"><i>Vicinarum provinciarum Vervicensis</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Scilicet & Leicestrensis ornamenta</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Proceres patriciique auspiciis</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Illustrissimi Basilii comitis de</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Denbigh hanc columnam statuendam</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>curaverunt in gratam pariter</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>& perpetuam memoriam Jani tandem</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>a serenissima Anna clausi.</i></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <div class="center">A. D. MDCCXII.</div> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza" lang="la"> - <div class="i0"><i>Si veterum Romanorum vestigia</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>quæras, hic cernas viator. Hic enim</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>celeberrimæ illorum viæ militares</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>sese mutuo secantes ad extremos usque</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Britanniæ limites procurrunt, hic</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>stativa sua habuerunt Vennones & ad</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>primum abhinc lapidem castra sua</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>ad stratam & ad fossam tumulum</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Claudius quidam cohortis præfectus</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>habuisse videtur.</i></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_111">111</span></p> - - <p class="noindent">Cloudbury-hill, two thorn-bushes upon a <em>tumulus</em> on the - Foss, supposed the sepulchre of one Claudius. The city probably - was of a square form, humouring the crossing of the roads, and had - consequently four streets and four quarters. Many foundations are dug - up along all the roads. It commands a charming prospect to <em>Ratæ</em>, - <em>Vernometum</em>, Coventry, &c. and quite round. You go through a gate - by the cross to regain the Foss: at the length of a pasture it meets - the true old road.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp68 mb4" id="i_110"> - <div class="plateno"><i>93</i></div> - <div><b><span class="smcap">Bennonis.</span><br><span class="small"><i>Sep<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span> 9. 1722.</i></span></b></div> - <img src="images/i_110a.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley del:</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>I. V<sup>der</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.6em;">.</span> Gucht Sculp.</i></div> - <div class="mt3 clear"><i>Thomæ Bacon Ar Relliquias Romanas dd. W<sup>s</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span> Stukeley.</i></div> - <img src="images/i_110b.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="small"><i>Coins found near High-Cross</i><br> - High Cross. A.D. 1618.<br> - High Cross, 1722.<br> - <i>Bonnonis Sept. 9. 1722.</i></div> - </figure> - - <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Watling-street.</span></div> - - <div class="sidenote">TAB. LVI.</div> - - <p>Being now got upon the Watling-street, I made this remark of it, that - it is the direct road to Rome: for take a ruler, and lay it in a map - of Europe from Chester through London and Dover, and it makes a strait - line with Rome: so the great founders had this satisfaction when they - travelled upon it, that they were ever going upon the line that led - to the imperial Capitol. Our antiquarians are much at a loss, after - torturing of words and languages, to find out the reason of the name - of this street, which is so notorious, that many other by-roads of the - Romans, in different parts of the kingdom, have taken the same, and it - became almost the common appellative of such roads. My judgment of it - is this: it is natural to denominate great roads from the places they - tend to, as the Icening-street from the Iceni: the Akeman-street is - said to come from Akemancester: in Wiltshire, and other places, the - way to Exeter they call the Exeter road, though a hundred mile off: - so the London road is every where inquired for as the most remarkable - place: thus <em>Watling-street</em>, tending directly to Ireland, no - doubt was called the Irish road, that is the <em>Gathelian</em> road, - <em>Gathelin-street</em>; whence our present word <em>Wales</em> from - <em>Gauls</em>, <em>warden</em> from <em>guardian</em>, &c. <cite>Scoti qui & - Gaidelii</cite> says <em>ogygia extera</em>. Whether there be any thing - in the story of Gathelus, as founder of the Irish, I do not concern - myself at present; but their language is called <em>Gaothela</em>: so - Mr. Camden says the true genuine Scots own not that name, but call - themselves <em>gaoithel</em>, <em>gaiothlac</em>, as coming from Ireland; - and that they glory in this name: and there is no dispute but this is - the ancient appellative of the Irish,<a id="FNanchor_100" href="#Footnote_100" class="fnanchor">[100]</a> which the learned Mr. Edward - Lluyd has turned into <em>Gwydhelians</em>: and this name, which has - superseded that which the Romans gave it, (whatever it was) seems to - show there was such a road in the ancient times of the Britons, as the - track of the trade between Ireland and the continent; yet it must be - owned nought but Roman hands reduced it to the present form.</p> - - <p>Hence-forward we turn our course upon the Gathelin-street directly for - London along with the Itinerary. The road is now altogether between - hedge-rows, very clayey and bad, full of lakes and mires, through the - intolerable negligence of the inhabitants: here and there they have - stupidly mended it, by making a ditch in the middle of the road to - raise a bank of earth; for which they ought rather to be punished than - commended.</p> - - <p>I turned out of the road to the west, through some inclosures, to see - Cester-over, induced by the name. I found a house in a little square - deeply intrenched upon the side of a hill, but the earth rather thrown - outward than inward as a <em>vallum</em>, and the level within much - lower than the field around it. I perceived it was a religious house; - some part of the building left; and without the ditch a fine chapel, - built of brick with good stone coins and mullioned windows, converted - into a barn: and a-cross a valley hard by I saw dams, or stanks, for - fish-ponds. The people within could give me no manner of intelligence, - having but lately come thither. I fancied it to have been a nunnery, - and that it was called <em>Sister-over</em>, to distinguish it from - other neighbouring towns; as <em>Church-over</em>, <em>Browns-over</em>, - <i>&c.</i> but <span class="pagenum" id="Page_112">112</span>afterwards I learnt from other hands that there is a - close called Old-town, where they dig up foundations, being very rich - land (said to have been a city) lord Brook possessor.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Tripontium.</div> - - <div class="sidenote">TAB. XCIV.</div> - - <p>Thence passing a rivulet, from Bensford bridge<a id="FNanchor_101" href="#Footnote_101" class="fnanchor">[101]</a> I came to - <em>Tripontium</em>, placed in a sweet little valley, but the sides - pretty steep: the road on the opposite hill looks perfectly like a - perspective scene at the play-house. This is the next Roman station, - which is rightly placed at Dovebridge upon the Avon, running by Rugby - to Warwick. The stream here divides into two, with a bridge over - each: upon one a stone inscription, very laconic, showing the three - counties that repair it. The first syllable of <em>Tripontium</em> has - relation to the old British word <em>tre</em>, a town or fortification: - the remainder is generally thought to signify a bridge; but it is not - to be imagined the Romans would make a bridge over this rill, or one - so eminently <span class="pagenum" id="Page_113">113</span>large as to denominate the town: indubitably it comes - from the British word <em>pant</em>, a little valley as this is, and - remarkably so; which the Britons pronouncing broad, created the Latin - <em>Tripontium</em>. Here are no manner of remains of antiquity, but the - distances on each hand ascertain this the place: hard by antiquities - have been found both at Cathorp and Lilburn, one on the north, the - other on the south of the river; so that the Roman city stood on both - sides. Castle hills, a place at Lilburn, where are some old walls: - Camden speaks of it. Mr. Morton has treated largely on this station, to - whom I refer the reader. The neighbouring Newton probably succeeded it, - and then Rugby.</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0">Yet rolling Avon still maintains its stream,</div> - <div class="i0">Swell’d with the glories of the Roman name.</div> - <div class="i0">Strange power of fate, unshaken moles must waste,</div> - <div class="i0">While things that ever move for ever last!</div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">With this reflection of the poet leave we the name of - <em>Tripontium</em>, made immortal in the imperial Itinerary.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_112"> - <div class="plateno"><i>94</i></div> - <div><b>Johi Bridges Ar. <i>Romanæ Stationis in Comitatu Suo. delineationem d.d. W<sup>s</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span> Stukeley.</i></b></div> - <div class="small"><i>Dowbridg</i><br>TRIPONTIUM<br>9 Sep. 1722</div> - <img src="images/i_112.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div> - </figure> - - <p>When we mount the next hill there is a lovely prospect as far as - Watford-gap, four miles off, a great vale or rather level meadow lying - between, a-cross which the road is drawn: and hereabouts the ridge of - it is very high for miles together: the nature of the way, on both - sides being stoney, has spared it. Several <em>tumuli</em> upon the road; - bodies found under them: this shows the Romans did not travel upon - them on horse-back. Watford-gap is a convenient inn for antiquaries - to supply the mansion of <em>Tripontium</em>, which I think proper to - advertise them of: it has a pleasant prospect of the road northwards: - it is a high hill, and a rock of stone six foot under the surface, - which is softish; then a bed of clay; under that a blue hard stone of - good depth: below this rock it is springy, and at the bottom by the - meadows are many quick springs. At Legers Ashby near here has been - another old town, as they say, destroyed by the Danes: there are great - ditches, causeways, and marks of streets. Catesby owned the town, who - hatched the powder-plot. I went out of the road through Norton to see - a great camp called<span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Burrow hill.</span> Ro. <i>camp</i>.</span> Burrow hill, upon the north end of a hill covered - over with fern and goss: here is a horse-race kept; and the whole - hill-top, which is of great extent, seems to have been fortified: but - the principal work upon the end of it is squarish, double ditched, of - about twelve acres: the inner ditch is very large, and at one corner - has a spring: the <em>vallum</em> is but moderate: a squarish work - within, upon the highest part of the camp, like a <em>prætorium</em>. - They say this was a Danish camp; and every thing hereabouts is - attributed to the <em>Danes</em>, because of the neighbouring - <em>Daventre</em>, which they suppose to be built by them: the road - hereabouts too being overgrown with <em>dane-weed</em>, they fancy it - sprung from the blood of the Danes slain in battle, and that, if upon - a certain day in the year you cut it, it bleeds. As to the camp, I - believe it to be originally Roman; but that it has been occupied by - some other people, and perhaps the Danes, who have new modelled it, - and made new works to it. Consult Mr. Moreton, who has discoursed very - largely about it. Much <em>cotyledon</em> and <em>ros solis</em> grow in - the springs hereabouts: the stone is red and sandy, and brim-full of - shells. I saw a fine <i>cornu ammonis</i> lie neglected in Norton town - road, too big to bring away, and where they have fresh mended the - Watling-street with this stone; it was an amusement for some miles to - view the shells in it. Hereabouts the road is overgrown with grass and - trefoil, being well nigh neglected for badness, and the trade<span class="pagenum" id="Page_114">114</span> wholly - turned another way, by Coventry, for that reason. Between the head of - the Leam and this Avon is<span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Arbury Hill.</span> Ro. <i>camp</i>.</span> Arbury hill in view, another Roman camp, upon - a very high hill; notoriously made for a guard between the two rivers.</p> - - <p>The next station the Watling-street leads us to is Weedon on the - street; beyond dispute <span class="sidenote smcap">Benavona.</span><i>Benavona</i>, as surely it ought to be - wrote, being situate on the head of the <em>Aufona</em>, running to - <em>Northavonton</em>, or Northampton.<span class="sidenote">TAB. XXVIII. 2d Vol.</span> This too affords but little matter - for the antiquary. The old town seems to have been in two pastures west - of the road, and south of the church, called Upper Ash-close and Nether - Ash-close, or the Ashes; in which are manifest vestiges of the ditch - and rampart that surrounded it, and many marks of great foundations: - they show you the site of king Wolfhere’s palace, the Saxon kings - of this province having their seat here. The Ashes was the Roman - <em>castrum</em>: here was a chapel of St. Werberg, daughter of king - Wolfhere, abbess to the nunnery in this place: there has been dug up - abundance of very fine stone, and many Roman coins. Now Weedon consists - of two parishes, and has been a market-town. There is a large Roman - camp a little higher toward the river-head, southward a mile, as much - from Watling-street, called <span class="sidenote smcap">Castledikes.</span>Castledikes, probably one of those made by - P. Ostorius Scapula, <em>proprætor</em> under Claudius. Roman coin and - pavements have been found there. I visited the place: it is of a very - pleasant and healthful situation, being in a wood on the top of a dry - hill: probably it was a Roman villa, afterwards rendered Saxon: a house - stands by it. Another of these camps of Scapula I mentioned before, - at Guildsborough. At Nether Hayford, on the other side the road, anno - 1699, a Roman Mosaic pavement was found, of which Mr. Moreton gives us - a drawing, but in too small a compass.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Lactorodum.</div> - - <p>Towcester is a considerable town between two rivulets; but what - its Roman name, time has envied us, the Itinerary passing it by. - <em>Lactorodum</em> is the next station, being Old Stretford, on the - opposite side of the Ouse to Stony Stretford: many Roman coins have - been found in the fields thereabouts, and queen Eleanor’s cross stood - a little north of the Horse-shoe inn, pulled down in the rebellion; - which shows that the town was on this side the bridge in the time of - Edward I. Mr. Baxter says, the name imports the ford over the water. My - friend Browne Willys esq; who lives in the neighbourhood, has inquired - into the antiquities of this place, and gives us an account of them in - his curious Treatise of Burroughs, which it is to be wished he would - continue. A little on this side Stretford, to the west, upon very high - ground stands Whaddon hall, Mr. Willys’s seat; it has a most delicate - prospect: this manor formerly belonged to the lords Grey; one, a knight - of the garter, lies buried in the church. Spencer the poet lived here, - and the learned duke of Bucks. Here is the original picture of Dr. - Willys: I saw many of his MSS. letters, consultations, lectures, and - other works unprinted.</p> - - <p>Still higher stands Stukeley, a very large parish, on the same sort - of soil as that in Huntingdonshire. This is the oldest church, and - most intire, I ever saw, undoubtedly before the Conquest, in the plain - ancient manner, being a parallelogram of four squares: two are allotted - to the church; one covered by the steeple, which stands between it and - the choir, carried across the church upon two round arches; one square - to the choir, which is vaulted over with stone: the windows are small, - with semi-circular arches, and few in number: at the west end are three - arches, the door in the middlemost: the whole of a very good manner of - symmetry.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>28·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <div><b><i>Prospect of</i> Benavona <i class="small">July 6<sup>th</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.4em;">.</span> 1725.</i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_114.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>Fletcher sculp.</i></div> - </figure> - - <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_115">115</span></p> - - <p>Thus far we have gone through Northamptonshire and Bucks: now we - enter Bedfordshire, and arrive at <span class="sidenote smcap">Magiovinium.</span><em>Magiovinium</em>, or Dunstable. - The road hither from Fenny Stretford is deep sand (and comes from - <em>Salinæ</em>, or <em>sandy</em>) till you arrive at the bottom of - the chalk-hills, or <em>chiltern</em>, which arise very steep on this - side, as being north-west, conform to my assumption, p. 4. The town - stands upon this chalk; whence its Roman name, importing the white - town:<a id="FNanchor_102" href="#Footnote_102" class="fnanchor">[102]</a> it consists of four streets, intersecting at right angles, - but oblique to the cardinal points, because such is the direction of - the Icening and Watling-street, which here meet. In the centre stood - one of those beautiful crosses of queen Eleanor; but fanatic zeal has - robbed the town of this ornament. This being a high situation, and no - running water near, they are forced to draw up their water, from very - deep wells, by machinery of great wheels. Kingsbury, the royal seat - over-against the church, is now a farm-house. The church is composed of - many parts tacked together, some very old: it was part of the priory: - arch-bishop Cranmer was the last prior here. In Dunstable church is - this inscription,</p> - - <blockquote> - <p class="antiqua noindent" lang="la">Hic iacent Nicholaus Lane quondam presidens frat’nitat’<br> - sci Johannis Baptiste De Dunstable qui obiit ii die mens’ Decembr<br> - anno Dm M<sup>o</sup> CCCC<sup>o</sup> lir Et Agnes ur. ei<sup>o</sup> quorum animabus propicietur<br> - Deus amen.</p> - </blockquote> - - <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Maiden Bower.</span> British.</div> - - <p class="noindent">I visited Maiden-Bower,<a id="FNanchor_103" href="#Footnote_103" class="fnanchor">[103]</a> mentioned by Mr. Camden, but cannot think - its name has any relation to that of the town: though Roman coins - have been found here, I am persuaded it is a British work, like that - at Ashwell, at like distance from the Chiltern, and of like form, but - more circular: it stands upon a plain, but not far from the edge of a - lesser eminence of these hills, about a little mile from Dunstable: the - rampire is pretty high, but very little sign of a ditch; nor do I think - there ever was much more: it incloses about nine acres: the ground - round it is ploughed: this chalk yields good wheat. Between here and - the town is a long barrow called the Mill-hill, no doubt from a mill - which was afterwards set upon it; the ends of it ploughed somewhat: it - stands east and west: I have no scruple in supposing it Celtic. <span class="sidenote">Tumuli <i>British</i>.</span>A high - prominence of the Chiltern overlooks all, called the Five Knolls, from - that number of barrows, or Celtic <em>tumuli</em>, round, pretty large, - and ditched about upon the very <em>apex</em> of the hill. Close by are - two round cavities, as often observed in Wiltshire. The Icening-street - runs under the bottom. These chalk hills have frequently veins of - strong clay intermixed, and the like between these hills and the sand - more northward. This great tract of chalk comes from the eastern - sea, and traverses the kingdom much in a like direction with the - Icening-street.</p> - - <p>At Woburn is some fullers earth. There was a noble abbey, now the seat - of the duke of Bedford; in it several valuable works of Inigo Jones - left, particularly a curious grotto.</p> - - <p>From Dunstable the Itinerary leads us out of the road, going strait to - Verolam, and takes in another station by the way, <span class="sidenote smcap">Durocobrivis.</span><em>Durocobrivis</em>; - which demonstrates it was made not so much for travellers, as for - the soldiery or officers that were to visit the garrisons, therefore - comprehends as many <span class="pagenum" id="Page_116">116</span>as could conveniently be taken into that route. - About this station antiquaries have been much divided, when it - certainly ought to be placed at Berghamsted, commonly Barkamstead, - in <span class="sidenote">TAB XXIX. 2d Vol.</span>Hertfordshire, which well suits the assigned distances from - <em>Magiovinium</em>, and the subsequent <em>Verolanium</em>, and has - evidently been a Roman town, as its name imports; and probably the - castle there stands upon a Roman foundation. It is certain Roman coins - are frequently dug up there: my friend Mr. Browne Willys has a Roman - coin, found there: young Mr. Whitfield, brother to the major at St. - Alban’s, has many Roman coins, great and small, found in the castle - at Berghamsted. The inside, within the walls where the lodgings were, - is about two acres: the entrance was not at the corner, where now, - but in the front of the south side: many chimneys remain in the wall, - of the lodgings which extended quite round, leaving a spacious court - within; and all the windows looked inward: the ground of the court is - distinguishable, being good soil, and there they find the Roman coins; - the rest is rubbish and foundations; so that the Saxon castle was made - upon the Roman: the chapel seems to have stood against the west wall, - where be signs of a stair-case: the walls are of flints gathered from - the highlands, very thick, and laid with strong mortar. This town fully - answers the distance in the Itinerary, and remarkably the import of - the name, according to Mr. Baxter’s derivation, though he erroneously - places it at Woburn, <i lang="la">civitas paludosi profluentis</i>; for here is - a large marsh, or bog, wherein the ancient British <em>oppidum</em> was - placed: it is most sweetly surrounded with high, hard, and pleasant - ground all around, full of hedge-rows, pastures, and arable: the castle - was set very judiciously in the north side, upon a piece of dry ground, - incompassed with springs, by the Saxons made exceedingly strong. The - town is upon the south side of the marsh, stretching itself a good - length in handsome buildings, and a broad street: the church is a large - handsome building, a monumental <em>effigies</em> of a knight and a lady; - upon his coat a bend or belt, and in the sinister chief a martlet; a - lion his crest under his feet: it is full of chapels and monuments old - and new. This town has been an old corporation; the kings of Mercia - resided here; Wightred, king of Kent and Mercia, anno 697, held a - parliament here; and here king Ina’s laws were published: all which - further confirm its being the place we assert.<a id="FNanchor_104" href="#Footnote_104" class="fnanchor">[104]</a></p> - - <p>Near is Ashridge, an abbey, now the seat of the duke of Bridgewater; - a park finely wooded, especially with tall beech-trees full of mast. - Hereabouts I observed many great stones composed wholly of little - pebbles; others, of larger pebbles or flints petrified together - exceeding hard. Near Ricmeresworth, at Moor park, Mr. Styles, digging a - hill away, found veins of sea-sand with mussels in them, and many other - curious particulars.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Verolanium.</div> - - <div class="sidenote">TAB. XCV.</div> - - <p>We come again into the Watling-street at <em>Verolanium</em>. I need say - little here, after Mr. Camden, Chancey, Weaver, and others. This was - the famous <em>municipium</em> of the Romans, destroyed by Boadicia. The - form of the city is depicted in <a href="#i_116_2">plate 95</a>. in one part the ditch is - double, but irregularly formed. I imagine the outermost was the only - fence of the first city, which Boadicia destroyed before the walls - were built, and these reduced it into a more square form; to which - the inner ditch belonged. In some measure the track of the streets is - visible, when the corn first comes up, or is nearly ripe: three years - ago good part of the wall was standing; but ever <span class="pagenum" id="Page_117">117</span>since, out of - wretched ignorance, even of their own interest, they have been pulling - it up all around, to the very foundations, to mend the highway; and - I met hundreds of cart-loads of Roman bricks, &c. carrying for that - purpose, as I now rode through the old city, though they may have - stone cheaper, because of the prodigious strength of the mortar, so - that they cannot get up one whole brick in a thousand. The composition - of the Roman wall is three foot layers of flint, and one foot made up - of three courses of Roman brick: there are round holes quite through - the wall, at about eight yards distance, in that corner still left by - St. German’s chapel: another great piece of the wall is left by the - west gate, called Gorham Block; it is always twelve foot thick. I saw - a little brass <em>lar</em>, or <em>genius alatus</em>; another curious - antiquity, of a brass knife-handle with odd faces and figures on it, - now in possession of Sir Robert Cornwall, baronet; a little urn of - white earth two inches and quarter high: part of a great wine-jar, - 20 inches high, two foot diameter, in St. Michael’s vestry; another - such in St. Alban’s church. In St. Michael’s church sleeps the great - naturalist Bacon, who first revived the experimental way of philosophy: - his mansion-house or manor was at Gorhambury, hard by, where is a - statue of Henry VIII. and several things worth seeing: it is now the - seat of my lord Grimstone. Infinite are the antiquities of all sorts - that have been, and frequently are, dug up at <em>Verolam</em>. When I - was making an ichnography of it, I could have taken several pecks of - remainders of Mosaic pavements out of a little ditch near St. German’s - chapel; and there is one or two intire yet under ground. As you walk - along the great road that runs north and south through the city from - St. Michael’s church, you see foundations of houses and streets, - gutters, floors, &c. under the hedge-rows. The ancient part of the - monastic church and the steeple are intirely built of Roman brick, - fetched by the abbots from the old city. March 1718–9 a Mosaic pavement - was found. The Roman bricks are generally eighteen inches long, twelve - broad, one and a half thick. I measured one in the south-wall of the - school-house, by the east end of the abbey church, twenty-three inches - long, three thick, which probably was made for hypocausts. Upon the - walls of old <em>Verulam</em> grows the <em>bee orchis</em>, a very curious - plant. Many are the monuments, brasses, tombs, and inscriptions, in - the abbey church: the vault of Humphry duke of Glocester was lately - discovered: the high altar is a curious piece of Gothic work, which I - have represented in two plates. Hard by is Sopwell nunnery, <span class="sidenote">TAB XXX XXXI.</span>where they - say Henry VIII. was married to Anna Bolen: part of it is standing. - But to say any thing particular of religious antiquities, would be - too tedious: they have lately been working hard at pulling up the old - foundations of the abbey, and it is now levelled with the pasture, when - three years ago one might make a tolerable guess at the ichnography - of the place. In the heart of the town of the adjoining corporation - stood another of queen Eleanor’s crosses, which they likewise intirely - demolished, not considering that such kind of antiquities invite many - curious travellers to come thither. This very year they pulled down - the stone tower or gate-house on the north side of the abbey, within a - month after I had taken a sketch of it. In St. Peter’s church I found - this old inscription on a stone,</p> - - <div class="center"><span class="antiqua">EDITHE : LE : UINETER : GIST : ICI : DIEU : DE<br> - SA : ALME : EIT : MERCI.</span></div> - - <p class="noindent">I shall add no more, than that my notion of the derivation of this - town, and several others compounded of like words, is, a fair - habitation, <em>Vrolân</em>, as it justly merits.</p> - - <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_118">118</span></p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>29·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <div><b><i>Prospect of</i> Berghamsted <i>14. Sept. 1724.</i> <span class="smcap">Dvrocobrivis.</span></b></div> - <img src="images/i_116_1.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_116_2"> - <div class="plateno"><i>95</i></div> - <div class="large"><b><span class="smcap">Verolanivm</span></b></div> - <img src="images/i_116_2.jpg" alt=""> - <div>Martino Folkes Ar. observantiæ ergo d. <i>W. Stukeley</i></div> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>Parker Sculp.</i></div> - <ol class="alpha left small"> - <li><i>To</i> Suellaniacis</li> - <li><i>The Monastrey</i></li> - <li><i>Sopwell a Nunnery</i></li> - <li><i>S<sup>t</sup> Stephens</i></li> - <li><i>Q. Elenors-cross</i></li> - <li><i>S<sup>t</sup> Michaels</i></li> - <li><i>A Bell-tower</i></li> - <li><i>S<sup>t</sup> Marys chap</i>:</li> - </ol> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp75 mb4" id="i_117_1"> - <div class="plateno"><i>30</i></div> - <img src="images/i_117_1.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley d.</i></div> - <figcaption><i>The high Altar at S<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span> Albans. 28. Dec 1720.</i></figcaption> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp75 mb4" id="i_117_2"> - <div class="plateno"><i>31</i></div> - <img src="images/i_117_2.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley d.</i></div> - <div><i>The back side of the high altar at S<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span> Albans</i></div> - </figure> - - <p>The Watling-street seems to have passed directly through the Roman - city, a little southward of St. Michael’s church and St. Mary’s chapel, - so by St. Stephen’s: nevertheless there is a road round about, without - the south side of the city-walls, for those that had no occasion to - go through the city: it goes by St. Julian’s, once an hospital; then - by Colney-street and Radway; thence almost disused, and scarce known - but from its straitness: it continues direct, but very narrow, the - hedges having incroached upon it on both sides, till we arrive at our - next station, <span class="sidenote smcap">Suellaniacis.</span><em>Suellaniacis</em>, upon Brockley hill, a little south - of Elstre, and near Stanmore. From this eminence, where Mr. Philpot’s - summer-house stands, is a sweet prospect across the Thames into Surrey: - this is by Kendale wood, where formerly they found an old flint wall - laid in terrace-mortar as they call it, meaning its strength, so hard - that they could not possibly dig it up with pick-axes: they found - an oven in the same place. Mr. Philpot, when digging his canal and - foundations for his buildings, which are upon the site of the old city, - found many coins, urns, and other antiquities. They have a proverb here,</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0"><i>No heart can think, nor tongue can tell,</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>What lies between</i> Brockley-hill <i>and</i> Penny-well;</div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">meaning the coins found thereabouts. In the wood over-against the - house, great quantity of Roman bricks, gold rings, and coins, have been - found in digging; many arched vaults of brick and flints under the - trees: the whole top of the hill is covered with foundations. Pennywell - is a parcel of closes across the valley beyond <em>Suellaniacis</em>, - where foundations are discernible: here likewise they say was a city: - two or three years ago they dug privately, in hopes of finding treasure - at this place. I am of Mr. Baxter’s opinion, that the name of this - station has some reference to the famous British king <em>Suellan</em>, - or Cassibelan, general of the Britons against Cæsar, and that his town - was in this neighbourhood; which I shall consider more particularly - upon another occasion. By the road side is a barrow lately dug away.</p> - - <p>Hence the road goes through Edgworth; and so at Paddington, by Tyburn, - it crosses the other Roman road, called now Oxford-street, which was - originally continued to Old-street, going north of London one way; - the other way it proceeds by the back side of Kensington, and through - an unfrequented path, till it falls into the present great road to - Brentford, Stanes, &c. and it is a Roman road all the way, going pretty - nearly east and west: therefore our Watling-street must cross it with - an oblique angle; and by observation I found it to be about forty-five - degrees. Higden takes notice the Watling-street ran to the west of - Westminster, over the Thames, so through the middle of Kent: from - Tyburn I judge it goes over part of Hyde-park,<a id="FNanchor_105" href="#Footnote_105" class="fnanchor">[105]</a> and by May-fair, - through St. James’s park, to the street by Old Palace-yard called the - Wool-staple, to the Thames. Here has been an old gate; one part of - the arch is still left, but not Roman. On the opposite side of the - river is Stane-gate ferry, which is the continuation of this street - to Canterbury, and so to the three famous sea-ports, <em>Rutupiæ</em>, - <em>Dubris</em>, and <em>Lemanis</em>. This Oxford road was originally - carried north of London, in order to pass into Essex, because London - then was not considerable; but in a little time became well nigh - lost; and Holborn was struck out from it, as conducting travellers - thither, directly entering the city at Newgate, originally called - Chamberlain’s gate, and so to Londonstone, <span class="pagenum" id="Page_119">119</span>the <i>lapis milliaris</i> - from which distances are reckoned: and hence the reason why the name - of Watling-street is still preserved in the city, though the real - Watling-street goes through no part of it, but through Southwark; or, - if we please, we may call this a vicinal branch of the Watling-street.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp68 mb4" id="i_119"> - <div class="plateno"><i>57</i></div> - <div><b><span class="smcap large">Londinivm</span> Augusta<br><i class="small">7. Nov. 1722.</i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_119.jpg" alt=""> - <div>Illustrissimo Comiti Penbrokiæ Moecenati Eximio Sacra Tabula.</div> - <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - </figure> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Londinium.</div> - - <div class="sidenote">TAB. LVII.</div> - - <p>According to method I should speak of <em>Londinium</em> here: but - because the great deal that may be said thereupon will make a discourse - by itself, we content ourselves at present with giving the plan of - it, as we suppose it might appear in the times of the Romans; and so - continuing our tour into Kent, will finish the whole continuation of - the Watling-street with what few memoirs I could pick up at that time.</p> - - <p>As Old-street went on the north of London, so the proper Watling-street - we have been upon, since High-cross in Warwickshire, went on the - south; from Stane-gate ferry across St. George’s fields, so south of - the Lock hospital to Deptford and Black heath: a small portion of the - ancient way pointing to Westminster abbey is now the common road on - this side the nearest turnpike; but the continuation of it is quite - lost since the bridge was made, and all roads meet at that centre - as so many <em>radii</em>. When London became considerable, the ferry - over-against it, from being better attended, rendered that at Stangate - almost useless; so passengers went through the city by Canon-street, - Watling-street, and Holborn: hence so little appears of it between - Tyburn and the Lock hospital; and probably its materials were long - since wholly dug away to mend the highways. Upon this way in Southwark - many Roman antiquities have been found, particularly a <em>Janus</em> - of stone, in possession of Dr. Woodward: but our business shall be to - prosecute the end of the second journey and the whole third and fourth - of Antoninus.</p> - - <p>From Shooters hill the direction of the road is very plain both ways: a - mile westward from the bottom of the hill you find vestiges of it just - upon the common: some part of the <em>agger</em> is left, made of gravel - near at hand: from the top of Shooters hill you see it butts upon - Westminster abbey, where it passes the Thames; and this demonstrates - its original direction, and that it was begun from the east; for the - turn of the river at Greenwich intercepts it, though not observed in - maps: so the way is forced to deflect a little southward there, and - then recovers its point: beyond that hill it is very strait as far as - the ken reaches. On Black heath a vast <em>tumulus</em>, now used as a - butt for <em>archers</em>, hereabouts in great request till Henry the - <abbr title="8th’s">VIIIth’s</abbr> time: and hence the name of <em>Shooters</em> hill.</p> - - <p>It is to be noted that in the second journey of Antoninus, - <em>Madviacis</em>, Maidstone, and <em>Durobrovis</em>, Rochester, are - transposed; therefore in the whole between London and Rochester it is - twenty-eight miles, as in both the next journeys called twenty-seven, - (but more rightly the former:) so that, as the Watling-street leads - directly over Shooters hill between London and Rochester, and seeing - the whole distance is answerable to fact, we need be in no pain for - finding out the intermediate station, <span class="sidenote smcap">Noviomagus.</span><em>Noviomagus</em>: doubtless it - was about Wellend or Crayford,<a id="FNanchor_106" href="#Footnote_106" class="fnanchor">[106]</a> as Mr. Somner judges, where the - respective distances on each side point it out: notwithstanding, as to - matters of antiquity, we have nothing to say. So with good reason Dr. - Plot settles <em>Pennocrucium</em> at Stretton in Staffordshire, because - it is upon this same Watling-street, and answers the distances, though - no Roman antiquities are there discovered; and the like must we do - of other places. No doubt there were two stations between London and - Rochester, though <span class="pagenum" id="Page_120">120</span>only one mentioned in the Itinerary: - <span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Northfleet.</span> Ro. <i>town</i>.</span>Northfleet - seems to be the other, where many antiquities are found. I heard much - talk of an old town at Plumsted, nearer the Thames, and to which - they say the river came up originally: if true, perhaps this was the - <em>Noviomagus</em>, and the <em>Trinobantum</em>, or <em>Trenowydh</em> of - the Britons, i. e. the town of the <em>Novii</em> or <em>Novantes</em>, - of which their old writers make a din, and would affix it to London: - they say there are much ruins there. East of Crayford, all along - upon the heath, as well as on the other side from Shooters hill, the - ridge of the Watling-street is very visible; but beyond Dartford the - common road leaves it quite on the south side, which induced me to - follow the Roman: it becomes a lane presently, and passes in a very - strait line, for five or six miles, through little valleys, woods, and - inclosures; and about that distance I lost both it and myself in a wood - by Southfleet; which obliged me to endeavour again to recover the great - road: by the quantity of ground I went for that purpose, I guess this - is a branch of the main road directly to Maidstone, for the convenience - of such as intended to go strait to <em>Lemanis</em> by <em>Durolenum</em>. - The soil from London to Dartford is gravel, but the highest ground has - sand: beyond to Rochester it is chalk full of flints and gravel: the - flints lie in <em>strata</em>, very black, and squeezed flat like mortar - in the course of a wall; and above the chalk is pure sand.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Durobrivis.</div> - - <p>The river Medway at Rochester is very broad and rapid, foaming most - violently: there is a stately bridge built across it: below bridge lie - about fifty of our biggest first rate men of war unrigged, such as - the Royal Sovereign, Britannia, Barfleur, &c. The Roman city was very - strong, being walled about and ditched:<a id="FNanchor_107" href="#Footnote_107" class="fnanchor">[107]</a> near that angle below the - bridge, <span class="sidenote">TAB. XXX. 2d Vol.</span>incompassed by the river, is a large piece of Roman building - of the wall, made of rubble-stone laid sloping side-ways, here and - there Roman bricks: houses are built upon it, and it is broke through - for a passage; in the inside much flint. Dr. Thorp has great numbers - of antiquities found hereabouts. This city stands in an angle of the - river: it seems to have been of a square form, the Watling-street - running directly through it: most of the walls still remain, but - repaired. <span class="sidenote">TAB. VI.</span>The castle was built out of one angle by William the - Conqueror, which together with the cathedral has altered the regular - ground-plot of the city, as at Lincoln: the walls of the great tower - now left are four yards thick. The body of the cathedral is of the - original structure before the Conquest, repaired by bishop Gundulf an - architect, who likewise built the castle: the great tower is now called - Gundulf’s tower. The chalky cliff under the castle-wall next the river - is a romantic sight: the rapidity of the river wastes it away; and then - huge tracts of the wall fall down: in some places you see the bottom of - the broad foundation, and which in others is carried down to the water. - On the north side of the north-west tower of the church is Gundulf’s - <em>effigies</em>.<a id="FNanchor_108" href="#Footnote_108" class="fnanchor">[108]</a> The front of the church is of the old work, but a - new window put in the middle. The eastern gate of the city was pulled - down not long ago: I saw many of the stones distributed among the - adjacent buildings, being of a Roman cut.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Vaginacis.</div> - - <div class="sidenote">TAB. XXXI. XXXII. XXXIII. XXXIV. 2d Vol.</div> - - <p>We must now, according to the Itinerary, leave the Watling-street, and - go to Maidstone. The road hither passes by that famous British monument - called Kits-coty-house. It cannot be disputed but that Maidstone is the - next Roman station. <em>Mædwæg</em> I apprehend signifies the meadows - upon the river <em>Vaga</em>, which are here beautiful: whether the - Latin word be <span class="pagenum" id="Page_121">121</span><em>Madviacis</em>, or <em>Vagniacis</em>, I - see no difficulty in forming it from the British.<a id="FNanchor_109" href="#Footnote_109" class="fnanchor">[109]</a> The archbishop - of Canterbury had a palace here, founded by John Ufford, finished by - Simon Islip: a college or hospital was erected by A. B. Boniface, and - a chantry by Thomas Arundel, now the free-school. About 1720, they dug - up several canoos, made of hollowed trees, in the marshes of the river - Medway above Maidstone: one is used for a boat to this day. I saw, in - the hands of Dr. Dodd, a British coin of <em>electrum</em>, found at - Addington near Malling, anno 1720, in the foundation of a stone wall: - on the concave side a British horse, rude enough; the convex was plain.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>30·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <img src="images/i_120_1.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>Toms Sculp.</i></div> - <figcaption><i>A Piece of the Roman Wall at Rochester 7. Oct. 1724.</i></figcaption> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_120_2"> - <div class="plateno"><i>6</i></div> - <div><b>Rochester <i>Castle 4 Oct. 1722.</i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_120_2.jpg" alt=""> - <figcaption>Dno J. ohi Elwill Bar.<sup>tto</sup> dd. <i>W. Stukeley.</i></figcaption> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>31·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <div><b><i>A Prospect of Kits Coty:house Kent Oct: 15. 1722.</i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_120_3.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div> - <div class="small"><b><i>Illustrissimo</i> Heneagio <i>Comiti Winchilsea Animi fortitudine & - eruditione singulari plusquam titulis nobili, Antiquitatem hanc</i> D. W<sup>s</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span> Stukeley.</b></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>32·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <div><b>Kits Coty house <i>15. Oct. 1722. The N. E. Prospect.</i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_120_4.jpg" alt=""> - <div><b><i>The lower</i> Coty <i>house</i></b></div> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>33·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <div><b><i>A Prospect of the Country from</i> Kits Coty house <i>15 Oct. 1722</i>.</b></div> - <img src="images/i_120_5.jpg" alt=""> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>34·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <img src="images/i_120_6.jpg" alt=""> - <div><b><i>View of the Ruins of the Lower Coty house.</i> A. <i>The Upper Coty house.</i></b></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_121"> - <div class="plateno"><i>27</i></div> - <div><b>Dno. Samueli Lennard <i>Barr. <sup>to</sup> Tabula Votiva</i>.</b></div> - <img src="images/i_121.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div> - <div class="small"><b><i>5 Oct. 1722. Prospect of the Remains of</i> Feversham Abby <i>where K. Stephen was buried.</i></b></div> - </figure> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Durolenum.</div> - - <p>From thence the Itinerary leads us to <em>Durolenum</em>. The learned - Talbot first guessed it to be Charing; and to me he seems to be in - the right. It is upon a spring of the river Len. The present name - is derived from the British <em>Caer</em>, as they called all Roman - towns in after-times: anciently it was wrote <em>Cering</em> with a - Saxon termination, intimating the meadows it stands upon. Roman - antiquities are found all about, but nothing I have yet met withal, - that particularly fixes the spot the Roman city stood upon. Near is a - manor called Broughton; Chart<a id="FNanchor_110" href="#Footnote_110" class="fnanchor">[110]</a> is the name of the hundred, from - two little adjoining villages: but at this place the distances answer - well, and the roads in many parts appear: that from hence to Canterbury - passed by Chilham; so over the river Stour by Sharnford, which retains - the British name of a causeway. The archbishops of Canterbury had a - castellated palace at Charing, probably given them by some of the first - Saxon kings, as a royal demesne of theirs: there are large ruins of - it still left. Here was a chantry founded by Sir John Burley. All the - ground upon the river Len at the bottom of the great ridge of hills - is sand, sometimes exceeding white; between that and the bottom of - the hills it is flinty: the hills themselves are pure chalk. All Kent - consists of large tracts of ground gradually rising from the east to a - western ridge steep that way, so succeeded by another of like manner; - but any of these tracts are made up of little hills and short valleys, - quite of a different nature from those on the west side of the island: - and Mr. Camden has observed this before us, as to the northern part - of the island, p. 533. <cite>Britannia</cite>. We may gather an idea of - the natural reason of it from what we spoke at first, of the ground - hardening upon the instant of the earth’s rotation.</p> - - <p>After we have made this excursion with Antoninus, to take in these - two stations, which seems to have been done to conduct travellers the - nearest way to the <em>portus Lemanis</em>, we return again to Rochester, - that we may finish the progress of the Watling-street.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Feversham.</div> - - <p>From Rochester the Watling-street continues very strait to Canterbury, - by Feversham, whither I went to visit the remains of the monastery - founded by king Stephen, and where he was buried with his family. At - present nothing left but <span class="sidenote">TAB. XXVII.</span>two gate-houses, and they of mean structure: - the hall was standing intire within this forty year; but now the whole - monastery is level with the ground, and converted into orchards, so - that I could not so much as guess at the place where the church was. - They have a report still, that at the dissolution of abbeys they took - up the coffin of <span class="pagenum" id="Page_122">122</span>lead wherein the king was buried, and sold it: as - for his corpse, they threw it into the Thames. Here king Ethelstan - enacted laws, anno 903. At <span class="sidenote smcap">Newington.</span>Newington seems to have been another - station: many Roman coins and antiquities have been found <span class="sidenote">Ro. <i>town</i>.</span>there. Vide - large accounts thereof in Burton’s Itinerary, p. 181. and Casaubon’s - translation of Antoninus Philos. Beyond Broughton, which seems to have - been another,<a id="FNanchor_111" href="#Footnote_111" class="fnanchor">[111]</a> you come to a very high hill, steep on the west. The - Watling-street here first presents the tower of the cathedral in its - line, and both together make a fine show:</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza" lang="la"> - <div class="i0"><i>Apparet rursum moles operosa viarum,</i></div> - <div class="i2"><i>Consurgit stratis agger ubique suis.</i></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Durovernum.</div> - - <p>Canterbury is deservedly famous for religious as well as Roman - antiquity, being the place where christianity first made its entrance - among our Saxon ancestors. Here are many remains of Roman buildings, - many made of <span class="sidenote">TAB. XCVI.</span>Roman materials in the Saxon times: many antiquities found - in digging about the hop-grounds; your lordship has quantities of them. - The city is strongly walled about, and many lunettes or towers at due - intervals; a deep ditch close underneath, and a great rampart of earth - within. The original ground-plot here, as in many other cities, is - spoiled by churches built in the middle of streets. To the south is an - old obscure gate, called <span class="sidenote">TAB. LIV.</span>Worth gate, partly walled up: it is under the - castle. This is intirely a Roman work: the semi-circular arch is of - Roman brick, beautifully turned; the piers of stone; the thickness of - it is three Roman feet. I suppose this the original gate of the Roman - city, and from hence went the road which presently divides itself into - two: the one goes by Chilham to <em>Durolenum</em>, over the river at - Sharnford, as we said; the other goes in a very strait line, by the - name of Stone-street, to the port of <em>Lemanis</em>. The castle built - here in William the Conqueror’s time, extending its limits beyond - this gate, was the occasion of blocking it up; and so Winchup gate - was built a little further eastward, to supply its use. The castle is - much of the same form as that at Rochester, and the walls of the same - thickness. A little further within the walls is a very high mount, - called Dungeon hill: a ditch and high bank inclose the <em>area</em> - before it: it seems to have been part of the old castle. Opposite to it - without the walls is a hill, seeming to have been raised by the Danes - when they besieged the city. The top of Dungeon hill is equal to the - top of the castle, and has a fine prospect over the city and country. - The materials of the city-walls are chiefly flint. Next to this, where - the Watling-street comes,<a id="FNanchor_112" href="#Footnote_112" class="fnanchor">[112]</a> is Riding-gate, built by a mayor of - the city, but evidently in the place of the Roman one; for there is - part of the Roman arch, and the pier of one side, still visible, but - much lower than the present gate: and in a yard close by is part of - the arch of a postern, or foot-gate, by the side of it: these arches - are of Roman brick, and there are in the wall here and there some more - fragments of the Roman work. The draught of it I have given in the - plate of the city ground-plot, 96. Hence the Watling-street passes - directly to Dover, over Barham downs. Next to East-gate is another - gate, opposite to what they call St. Ethelbert’s tower: this is the way - to the port of <span class="sidenote">TAB. XXV.</span><em>Rutupium</em>. Here is the famous monastery of St. - Augustin, the first metropolitan, built, as they say, near the palace - of the converted king Ethelbert: two gates remain next the city, and - both very stately: perhaps one belonged to the palace, the other to the - monastery, which doubtless <span class="pagenum" id="Page_123">123</span>as magnificent as richly endowed; and - such its ruins demonstrate, and the great compass of ground it took - up, incircled with a very high wall. Great vying was ever here between - the religious of St. Austin and of Tho. à Becket, both very rich and - contentious. At the west end of this church, as I conjecture, were two - great towers: half of one is still remaining, called <span class="sidenote">TAB. XXIV.</span>Ethelbert’s tower: - all the whole stones and pillars about it are skinned off as far as - they can reach; and every year a buttress, a side of an arch, or the - like, passes <em>sub hasta</em>. There is part of the other standing, - if it can be so said, that is only not fallen; I call it <i lang="la">muro - torto</i>: it is a vast angular piece of the tower, about thirty foot - high, which has been undermined by digging away a course at bottom, - in order to be thrown down; but it happened only to disjoint itself - from the foundation, and leaping, as it were, a little space, lodged - itself in the ground in that inclining state, to the wonderment of the - vulgar who do not discern the meaning of it, though the foundation - it came from is sufficiently visible: thus happening to be equally - poized, it is a sight somewhat dreadful, and forbids a too near - approach on any side, with the apprehension of its falling that way. - Under St. Ethelbert’s tower is the porch where St. Augustin and his six - successors, as Bede tells us, were interred: the arched roof is left, - but ready to fall: the pavement is gone, in the middle of which was an - altar. The adjacent close is full of religious ruins and foundations, - one great part turned into a stable near the almery: all over they - are busy in pulling it up, to sell the stones; which generally pays - the rent, and yet the tenants of such places thrive never the more. - <span class="sidenote">TAB. XXV.</span>In one corner of this field are the walls of a chapel, said to have - been a christian temple before St. Augustin’s time, and reconsecrated - by him to St. Pancras: a great apple-tree and some plum-trees now - grow in it: the lower part of it is really old, and mostly made of - Roman brick, and thicker walls than the superstructure: there is an - old Roman arch on the south side toward to altar, the top of it about - as high as one’s nose; so that the ground has been much raised: the - present east window is a pointed arch, though made of Roman brick, - later than St. Austin’s time: near it a little room, said to have been - king Ethelbert’s pagan chapel: however it be, both these and the wall - adjoining are mostly built of Roman brick: the breadth of the mortar is - rather more than the brick, and full of pebbles; but the mark of the - devil’s claws, there observed by the vulgar, is fantastical. The garden - and orchard adjoining seem to lie in their ancient form: there is a - large square mount close by the wall, which it equals in height, and - gives a prospect into the fields. Your lordship has a huge water-pipe - dug up among many other antiquities in a Roman bath discovered at - Canterbury: it is five inches and a half diameter at the smaller end, - seventeen long, seven in diameter at the broad end: they were fastened - into one another with strong terrace cement. The great number of other - antiquities of all sorts, found at and about this city, make part of - your fine collection.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_122"> - <div class="plateno"><i>96</i></div> - <div><b>DVROVERNVM. <i>5 Oct. 1722</i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_122.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>I. Harris sculp.</i></div> - <div>Collegæ charissimo Johi Gray M. D. Civitatē svā <i>dd. W. Stukeley.</i></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_123_1"> - <div class="plateno"><i>24</i></div> - <div><i>The Ruins of S<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span> Augustins Church<br> - in the Porch of which the English Apostle<br> - was bury’d, now called Ethelberts tower<br>at Canterbury Oct. 6. 1722.<br> - Dedicated to her Grace the Dutchess of Ancaster.</i></div> - <img src="images/i_123_1.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>I.V.<sup>der</sup> Gucht Sculp.</i></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_123_2"> - <div class="plateno"><i>25</i></div> - <div><b><i>A View in S<sup>t</sup> Austins Monastery Canterbury</i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_123_2.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="col35"><b><i>S<sup>t</sup> Gregorys Chappel</i></b></div> - <div class="col65"><b><i>The Heathen chappel of Ethelbert. 6 Oct. 1722</i></b></div> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>Harris sculp.</i></div> - </figure> - - <p>Eastward of this, and farther out of the city, is the church of - St. Martin, said to be the christian place of devotion, where king - Ethelbert’s queen used to go, and St. Austin’s first see: it is built, - for the most part, of Roman brick: in the middle is a very large - old-fashioned font, supposed that where the king was baptised. North - of the city is a very small remnant of St. Gregory’s chapel, founded - probably by Austin to the honour of his patron.</p> - - <p>The cathedral of Canterbury is very stately, but neither in length, - breadth, nor height, especially in front, equal to Lincoln, in my - judgement: it is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_124">124</span> intirely vaulted with stone, and of a very pretty - model of building, but much too high for its breadth, as all Gothic - buildings were. I believe they got this ill taste from building upon - the old foundations, the ancient churches being much narrower and lower - than in the succeeding times: when greater riches flowed in upon them, - they carried their walls and roofs to an unseemly height. The place - where Thomas à Becket’s shrine stood, is sufficiently known by the mark - of the devoted knees quite around it, which have left deep impressions - in the hard coarse marble. The Black Prince has a noble monument of - brass: that of Henry IV. is a good tomb, and there is a pretty chapel - hard by, to say mass for him. There is an old picture of arch-bishop - Becket’s martyrdom, as called; and upon the wall an old painting of the - siege of Jerusalem, in our old habits. Here are several monuments of - the bishops. The metropolitan chair is of grey marble, standing behind - the high altar: the cloysters are pretty good, and a very large chapel - near them, called Sermon-house, wainscotted with Irish oak. The reason - of the ancient name of this British city seems intimated in this verse - of Virgil,</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry" lang="la"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0"><i>Divinosque lacus & averna sonantia silvis.</i><span class="fright">Æn. iii.</span></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">The poor derivation of the commentators thereon ought to be referred to - Tuscan original, to which our Celtic is a-kin.</p> - - <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Rutupiæ.</span></div> - - <div class="sidenote">TAB. XXXV. 2d Vol.</div> - - <p>Leaving Canterbury,<a id="FNanchor_113" href="#Footnote_113" class="fnanchor">[113]</a> I journeyed to find out <em>Rutupiæ</em>. At - Wingham I saw a very large barrow, of Celtic make, by the road side, - called the Mount: upon enquiry I found there were several more in - the parish, and that a lane here is called Port-lane; doubtless the - Roman road, for here the common road goes more southward. The Roman - city and port without peradventure was the place now called Stonar, - or <em>Stanar</em>, as they pronounce it, from the stony foundations I - chuse to think; over-against Sandwich, or rather half a mile lower upon - the river coming from Canterbury, and almost incompassed by it. This - river at first discharged itself into the sea by Ebbesflete, north of - the Roman city, till the sand, pouring so directly upon it, obliged - the stream to slide under the cliff by Richborough castle, and so by - Sandwich: then, coming in obliquely by the weight of its waters, it - maintains its passage. I conceit the etymology of <em>Rhutupium</em>, - about which the learned contend much, is to be sought for in this - <em>Ebbesflete</em>; and that this water was originally called - <em>Ube</em>, or <em>Tyvi</em>: <em>rhyd tyf</em> or <em>tyvi</em>, is the - passage over it: the Saxons called it <em>Reptacester</em>, a contraction - only from <em>Rhutupicester</em>: and so our <em>Ebbe</em> at present came - from them; <em>Ruptimuth</em> anciently. Hence you see far into the isle - of Thanet and Ramsgate cliff, named from the Romans, thrusting its - chalky promontory into the sea. This was the chief port for the Roman - navy.<a id="FNanchor_114" href="#Footnote_114" class="fnanchor">[114]</a> At present there is only a farm-house or two, standing on - an elevation in the marshes: they informed me that here had been a - great city, and that they can discover all the streets when the corn - is on the ground; and those streets are nothing but pure gravel laid - very deep: innumerable stones and foundations have been dug up, but now - mostly evacuated; and no doubt Sandwich was built out of it. The river - runs close by it, with difficulty preserving its current to the sea; - but no doubt originally it was an open beach, or port: perhaps the city - itself was an island. The old mouth of the river is now filled up by - the astonishing quantity of small pebbles thrown into this bay by the - roll of <span class="pagenum" id="Page_125">125</span>the ocean: you see here a hundred acres of this flat - ground covered over with them six or seven foot deep, and looking blue - like the water. I fancied the people that lived here, in like danger - with those that travel the sandy deserts of Africa, or Arabia. Here - are two elevations, where they say two churches stood: upon one, where - an elder-tree grows, much rubble and stone is left, but no part of any - building; nor is it easy to distinguish what it was originally.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>35·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <div><b>View of Portus Rutupiæ from Sandwich. <i>7. Oct. 1722.</i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_124.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div> - <figcaption><i>South West view of</i> Richborough Castle.</figcaption> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_125_1"> - <div class="plateno"><i>97</i></div> - <img src="images/i_125_1.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <figcaption class="small">Richborow <i>Castle of the Romans 7 Oct. 1722</i>. Auspiciis Doctissimi D. Tancred Robinson M. D. &c.</figcaption> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>36·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <div><b><i>The Remains of the</i> Castrensian Amphitheater <i>at Richborough Castle. Oct. 7. 1724.</i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_125_2.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div> - </figure> - - <p class="clear mt3"><span class="sidenote">TAB. XCVII.</span>Richborough castle, as now called, was the fort as it were to this - city, and station of the garrison, which was to watch and defend the - port and sea-coast hereabout; or rather one of those castles built upon - the <i lang="la">littus Saxonicum</i>, in the time of Theodosius: it is a mile - off Stanar and Sandwich, situate upon the highest elevation near hand, - and being the only small part of a bold shore in all this bay: the - river runs at the foot of it,</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza" lang="la"> - <div class="i0"><i>———— arvaque & urbem</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Littore diductam angusto interluit æstu.</i><span class="fright"><span class="smcap">Virg.</span> Æn. iii.</span></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">It is a most noble remnant of Roman antiquity, where in later times - of their empire the <em>Legio</em> II. <em>Aug.</em> was quartered: the - walls on three sides are pretty intire, and in some places still about - twenty-five or thirty foot high, without any ditch: the side next the - sea being upon a kind of cliff, the top of the wall is but level with - the ground: beside, at the east angle the wall descends to another - slope just upon the river, which seems to have been in the nature of an - outwork, or gradual ascent into the castle: the ground on the inside - is pretty much raised. In the middle of the north-east side there is - a square work jutting out from the wall, which seems to have been an - oblique<a id="FNanchor_115" href="#Footnote_115" class="fnanchor">[115]</a> gate to enter at, for those that came from the water side; - and it is not unlikely that gap on the north-west side was another - gate: it was a square CV. paces one way, CL. the other; according - to the Roman method of making camps, a third part longer than their - breadth. There is a foundation within, which has caused many words - among the Kentish antiquaries; seems to have been a <em>Pharos</em>, - or lodging for the commanding officer, a <em>prætorium</em>: there are - foundations of several apartments, the walls monstrously thick and - strong. It is manifest to any one that seriously contemplates the ruins - of the walls in divers places, that this castle was destroyed by great - violence and industriously; I guess, by the Saxons immediately after - the Romans left the island, when they could more boldly make descénts - upon the coast: the reason why, is evident from the intent of these - castles: upon the eastern corner, especially, great piles of wall lie - one upon another like rocks: in other places cavities are hewn out of - its thickness, that would make good lodging-rooms: the manner of the - composition of the walls is seven courses of small hewn stone, which - take up four Roman feet: then two courses of Roman brick, which are - white, like the brick in the isle of Ely. I observe all the brick - about Sandwich to be of the same colour, made of whitish clay. The - walls are twelve foot thick: the inward body thereof is made of flint - and excessive hard mortar. Sandwich bears directly south. Dr. Holland - talks of a carved head over one of the gates; but I could find no such - thing now. In the way thither, upon an eminence is the carcass of a - castrensian <span class="sidenote smcap">Amphitheatre</span>amphitheatre made of turf; I suppose, for the exercise - and diversion of the garrison: the soil of it is gravel and sand, and - has been long ploughed over,<span class="sidenote">TAB. XXXVI. 2d Vol.</span> that we need not wonder it is so level. - There are three Roman <em>tumuli</em> before Sandwich west <span class="pagenum" id="Page_126">126</span>gate; one a - windmill stands on: it is not easy to assign which Contentus was buried - under:</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza" lang="la"> - <div class="i0"><i>Contentum tellus quem Rutupina tegit.</i> <span class="smcap">Auson.</span></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p>South of Sandwich, as we go along upon the sea-shore, are six large and - broad Celtic <em>tumuli</em>, equidistant: the second from the town has - been dug away, to raise a little fort upon the road: they all stand in - a line east and west.<a id="FNanchor_116" href="#Footnote_116" class="fnanchor">[116]</a> This flat coast is fenced against the ocean - by the sand-downs, which in Lincolnshire we call <em>meals</em>: but - within the memory of man, as they told me, the sea has commenced a new - method of guarding against its own violence, by covering the shore, for - a great depth and height, with the pebbles afore mentioned; which is an - odd mutation in nature; and it is observable that these pebbles come - from the south. I rode from Sandwich as far as Hithe, upon the brink - of the shore or cliff, in sight of France all the way; and nothing - could be more entertaining in this autumnal season, when the weather is - generally clear, serene and calm. Much sea <em>tithymal</em> grows here, - and a very pretty plant, <i lang="la">papaver cornutum flore luteo</i>, rock - samphire feeding upon <em>petroleum</em>, a most excellent pickle, and - many more.<a id="FNanchor_117" href="#Footnote_117" class="fnanchor">[117]</a> The murmur of the ocean has a noble solemnity in it, as - Homer says, when latinised,</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza" lang="la"> - <div class="i0"><i>Eructante salo raucam dant littora vocem.</i></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">More copiously expressed in Virgil,</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza" lang="la"> - <div class="i0"><i>Et gemitum ingentem pelagi, pulsataque saxa,</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Audimus longe, fractasque ad littora voces.</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Exsultantque vada atque æstu miscentur arenæ.</i><span class="fright">Æn. iii.</span></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">which is an exact idea of this place. By listening attentively I - observed this noise of the ocean is by fits, at short but equal - intervals; which I believe gave occasion to that fancy of the ancients, - that every tenth wave was the largest; of which Ovid has a distich.</p> - - <p>Sandown castle is composed of four lunettes of very thick arched - work of stone, with many port-holes for great guns: in the middle - is a great round tower, with a cistern at top; underneath an arched - cavern, bomb-proof: a foss incompasses the whole, to which there is - a passage over a draw-bridge. Deal castle and Walmer castle are of - the same nature, all built by Harry VIII. to guard this naked level - coast: moreover, lines are drawn along between castle and castle, and - at proper intervals round bastions with a ditch and parapet of earth, - where cannon may be planted, as in the infancy of fortification. These - are what Camden calls <em>Rome’s works</em>, and fancies to be remnants - of Cæsar’s ship-camp: the neighbours with as little truth affirm they - were thrown up by Oliver Cromwell, for reduction of these <span class="pagenum" id="Page_127">127</span>castles: - one is close by the north side of Deal, and two between Deal castle and - Walmer castle. At Walmer castle the cliff begins for about half a mile - southward with a gentle rise to a hill, whereon is a <em>tumulus</em>: - then the shore is plain again in a valley till you come to Kings-wold, - which is half a mile’s space. <span class="sidenote">TAB. XXXVII. 2nd Vol.</span>Between Walmer castle and Deal I take to - be the spot where Cæsar landed in his first expedition, because it is - the first place where the shore can be ascended north of Dover, and - exactly answers his assigned distance of eight miles: probably in his - second expedition, when he came with many more ships, and had a perfect - knowledge of the country, he went a little farther in the downs, - whereabouts now is Deal, a town lately sprung up from the mariners. As - for his sea-camps, it is vain to expect a sight of them; they are many - ages since absorpt by the ocean, which has so long been exercising its - power, and wasting the land away. Even since Harry the VIIIth’s time it - has carried off the sea-ward <em>esplanades</em> of the three castles, - and one half of two of the three circular forts. Indeed, of late years, - the providential ejectment of those pebbles has put a stop to it in - some measure; and it is amazing to see how it by degrees fills up these - fosses and trenches, and sometimes flies over the banks a good way up - into the land, with a power well expressed by the poet,</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza" lang="la"> - <div class="i0"><i>Aut vaga cum Tethys Rutupinaque littora fervent.</i><span class="fright"><span class="smcap">Lucan.</span> vi.</span></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">But of this affair of Cæsar’s I reserve to myself another opportunity - of speaking, when I shall expresly treat of his expedition hither. At - Deal castle is a very good well, though close by the sea.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>37·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <img src="images/i_127_1.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>Toms Sculp.</i></div> - <figcaption><i>A Prospect towards Deal from y<span style="margin-left: -0.1em;"><sup>e</sup></span> Barrow South of Walmer Castle.</i></figcaption> - </figure> - - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>38·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <img src="images/i_127_2.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>Toms Sculp.</i></div> - <figcaption><i>The Appeareance of the Roman</i> DVBRIS</figcaption> - </figure> - - <p>Now my journey lay intirely upon the edge of the cliffs, whose - precipicious height, with the noble prospect at sea, and most awful - roaring of the waves, filled the mind with a sense of Nature’s majesty. - About St. Margaret’s on cliff, near the light-houses, I saw in two - places a great number of little <em>tumuli</em>, of unequal bulk, close - by one another; and the like I found frequently about Barham downs, - and between Hardres<a id="FNanchor_118" href="#Footnote_118" class="fnanchor">[118]</a> and Chilham, and other places. I know not - that such have ever been taken notice of: the people say they were - burying-places of the Danes; probably digging into them might give us - some satisfaction. I believe them Celtic, because I saw many sorts of - them, and such as appear on Salisbury plain.</p> - - <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Dubris Portus.</span></div> - - <p>Dover is a most romantic situation: it is a great valley, and the only - one about this coast where water is admitted inwards of the cliff, here - very high; and a running brook discharges itself into the sea:<a id="FNanchor_119" href="#Footnote_119" class="fnanchor">[119]</a> the - water formerly came a good way higher up, and made a large port; and - they have found anchors above the town. <span class="sidenote">TAB. XXXVIII. 2nd Vol.</span>The Roman city of <em>Dubris</em> - was to the south of the river: the Watling-street enters it at Bigin - gate, coming very strait from Canterbury over Barham down, where it - is very perfect:<a id="FNanchor_120" href="#Footnote_120" class="fnanchor">[120]</a> butting<span class="pagenum" id="Page_128">128</span> directly upon the great tower of the - cathedral, it bears a little more northerly than north-west. This city - was an oblong square, and some of the walls are left: the churches - are of a very antique make: that of St. Martin is collegiate, founded - by Wightred king of Kent; it is a venerable ruin: the east end seems - to have terminated in three semi-circular works: it was built in - form of a cross, as to its main body. Much remains of the priory, - now a farm-house. The <em>maison dieu</em> over-against it is become a - store-house: here the knights Hospitallers or Templars lodged, coming - into, or going out of, the kingdom. The piers that form the haven, or - large bason, are costly and great works: above is a fort with four - bastions of modern date. The broad beach which lies at the mouth - of this great valley, and was the harbour in Cæsar’s time, is very - delightful: it is no little part of the diversion, in walking there, - to observe the odd produce of the ocean thrown up under your feet, and - the sea-plants that grow there; the<span class="sidenote">TAB. XXXIX. XL. 2d Vol.</span> <em>umbelli</em>, <em>star-fishes</em>, - many curious fossils and shells; the <em>eringo</em>, <em>sea-lungs</em>, - <em>sea-weed</em>, or <em>ood</em> as called, &c. One long street here - is named Snare-gate, from the most tremendous rocks of chalk hanging - directly over the houses; as Cnarsborough in Yorkshire, says Mr. - Camden, p. 715.</p> - - <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Dover Castle.</span></div> - - <p>The castle is the strongest place in the world, of old fortification; - it takes up thirty acres of ground: it is an amazing <em>congeries</em> - of walls, ditches, arches, embattlements, mounts, and all imaginable - contrivances to render it impregnable after the old mode: but with - highest regret I beheld this most noble and memorable fortress, once - thought the key of Britain, and that has divers times had the honour to - save the kingdom from conquest and slavery, now become a common prey - to the people that belong to it: in the late wars with France they - kept 1500 prisoners in the great castle; but within this twelvemonth - they have carried away the timbers and floors, disabling it even for - that use. Thus much I think out of gratitude is its due; let it stand - a monument of antiquity, or sink slowly by its own ruin. The brass gun - called Queen Elizabeth’s Pocket-pistol is a great curiosity, twenty-two - foot long: it requires fifteen pound of powder, and carries a ball - seven miles (as the gunner told me;) it is excellently well wrought. I - saw two very old keys, and a brass horn, which seem to be the ensigns - of authority belonging to the constable of the castle, or lord warden - of the cinque ports. One part of the fortifications consists of a large - circular work, in which stands the old church, said to have been built - by Lucius, an ancient king of the Britons, and first christian. Bishop - Stillingfleet thinks he is no romantic person, but reigned in Kent and - Sussex: however that be, I believe this church is as ancient as the - time assigned him. There is not much doubt to be made, that upon this - hill was a <em>castrum</em> of the Romans, like that at Richborough, to - guard this haven. It is somewhat surprizing that our Saxon ancestors - should take great pains to demolish Roman works, though they wanted - such in the same places, and were forced to build them again. I look - upon it as an argument that they had no thoughts of conquering the - island at first, and destroyed these bulwarks, that such might not - hinder their depredations; but espying the nakedness of the land, - thoroughly evacuated of its youth and men of arms by the Romans, they - found a conquest practicable: then were they <span class="pagenum" id="Page_129">129</span>obliged to - repair these castles. The church we are speaking of was built, in the - first times of christianity, out of part of the Roman ruins, whence - there are huge quantities of Roman bricks laid into the work: the - arches are intirely turned with them; the corners and many parts, both - within and without, are built up therewith; and the remainder is of - stone originally cut by the Romans: it is in form of a cross, and has - a square tower in the middle. I have represented the drawing of it in - <span class="sidenote">TAB. XLVIII.</span><a href="#i_129_1">plate 48</a>. The stone windows of this church are of later date than the - building; they have been put in long since: but the greatest curiosity - here is the <span class="sidenote"><i>Roman.</i> <span class="smcap">Pharos.</span></span><em>Pharos</em>, or Roman watch-tower, standing at the west - end of the church: notwithstanding it is so much disfigured by new - daubing with mortar, casing and mending, I discovered its primary - intention the first minute I saw it; and sent the three prints of - it, which I here present the reader, to monsieur Montfaucon, at the - instances of my most honoured lord, the archbishop of Canterbury. I was - in hopes they would have been more useful to that celebrated author; - for therein at least he might have found, that the building which he - first took for a <em>Pharos</em>, and whereof he gives us four views, is - only the tower of the church we were talking of. The description of - this curious work, which I believe the most perfect of any left, in - short is thus.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>39·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <img src="images/i_128_1.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>Toms sculp.</i></div> - <figcaption>The Prospect of DOVER <i>9 Oct. 1724</i>.</figcaption> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>40·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <img src="images/i_128_2.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>Toms sculp.</i></div> - <figcaption><i>The Appearance of Dover at the time of Cæsar’s Landing.</i></figcaption> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp68 mb4" id="i_129_1"> - <div class="plateno"><i>48</i></div> - <div><b>ROMANO-SAXONIC.</b></div> - <img src="images/i_129_1.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>I. Harris sculp.</i></div> - <div class="small"><i>The Old Church & Roman Pharos in Dover Castle. 8. Oct. 1722.</i></div> - <div class="small"><i>S<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span> Martins Church near Canterbury where K. Ethelberts Queen us’d to goe to Christian Service.</i></div> - <figcaption>Erudito viro et Amicissimo Johi Hardy de Nottingham.<br> - <i class="small">Tabulam hanc vovet W. Stukley</i></figcaption> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp70 mb4" id="i_129_2"> - <div class="plateno"><i>47</i></div> - <div><b><i>The</i> Ichnography & Section of the <span class="smcap">Roman - Pharos</span> <i>in</i> <span class="smcap">Dover</span> <i>Castle</i>.</b></div> - <img src="images/i_129_2.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="small"><b>Tabulam Architectonicam Dno. Jacobo Thornhil-Equiti, ad Rem Pictoriam Servienti<br> - Regio. D.D. <i>W<sup>s</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span> Stukeley.</i></b></div> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>I.V<sup>der</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.6em;">.</span> Gucht Sculp.</i></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt3"> - <figure class="illowp73 mb4" id="i_129_3"> - <div class="plateno"><i>46</i></div> - <div><b><span class="smcap">The Roman Pharos in Dover Castle</span> 8 Oct. 1722.</b></div> - <img src="images/i_129_3.jpg" alt=""> - <div><b><i>Quæ olim</i> Romanis <i>navigantibus facem præbuit</i><br> - Pharon <i>in Castro Dubriensi</i> Rog<sup>o</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span> Gale Arm.<br> - <i>consecratum posuit</i> W<sup>s</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span> Stukeley 1722.</b></div> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div> - </figure> - - <p class="clear"><span class="sidenote">TAB. XLVII.</span>In the <a href="#i_129_2">47th plate</a> we have shown the ground-plot upon which it is - formed, and a section of the work; whence we may readily observe that - the design is simple, but admirably contrived for its use and purpose: - the base is octagonal without, within a square; but the sides of the - square and octagon are equal, viz. fifteen Roman feet, which reduces - the wall to the thickness of ten feet. In this manner it was carried - up to the top, which was much higher than at present; but it retires - inward continually from all sides, with much the same proportion as - an Egyptian <em>obelus</em>. Upon four of these sides there are windows - narrow, handsomely turned with a semi-circular arch of Roman brick six - foot high, so that the outside of it appears as in our <span class="sidenote">TAB. XLVI.</span><a href="#i_129_3">46th plate</a>. The - door to it is on the east side, about six foot wide, very well turned - over head, with an arch made of a course of Roman brick and stone - alternately, fourteen foot high. All the stones of this work are of - a narrow scantling; and the manner of the composure, throughout, is - perfectly the same with that lately described at Richborough castle: - there are first two courses of this brick, which is level with the - bottom of the windows; then seven courses of hewn stone, which mount up - to the top of the windows; then two courses of brick, seven of stone - alternately, to the top; every window by this means reaching to a stage - or story. There are five of these stages left: the windows are visible - enough to a discerning eye, though some be stopt up, others covered - over, others have modern church-like windows of stone put in. I suppose - the inside was intirely filled up with a stair-case: the height of what - is left is forty foot; I believe there was twenty foot more originally; - and the whole number of windows on a side was eight. This building - was made use of as a steeple, and had a pleasant ring of bells in it, - which Sir George Rook procured to be carried away to Portsmouth. Since - then the office of the ordnance, under pretext of savingness, have - taken away the lead that covered it, and left this rare piece of art - and masonry to struggle with the sea, air and weather. Mr. Degg gave - me a coin of Dioclesian, found here. The Erpinghams arms are patched - up against one side of the <em>Pharos</em>, being two bars and a canton; - so that I suppose it was repaired in Henry the Fifth’s time, lord - Erpingham then warden of Dover castle. In the Roman castle here the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_130">130</span> - Tungrican soldiers had their station. I have heard there is another - such <em>Pharos</em> at St. Andrew’s in Scotland.<a id="FNanchor_121" href="#Footnote_121" class="fnanchor">[121]</a></p> - - <p>On the other high cliff opposite to this, beyond the town, has been - another <em>Pharos</em>: some part of the bottom part of it is still - left, called The Devil’s Drop, from the strength of the mortar: others - call it Bredonstone. Here the new constable of the castle is sworn. - If we consider the ancient state of Dover, we must imagine that the - little river ran directly into the sea, and left a harbour close to the - walls of the town; but in process of time, as the sea threw up that - vast beach which lies between the town and it, the river was forced by - an oblique passage to creep along the shore under the southern cliff, - and there vent itself where now is the harbour. This is what Nature - practises in the microcosm in innumerable instances, as the passage - of the gall and pancreatic juice into the intestines, in the duct of - the urine from the ureters into the bladder, of the chyle into the - torrent of the blood, insinuating themselves for some space between - the membranes. And this caution may be of service in forming harbours; - as in that costly work of the French king’s before Dunkirk, where two - banks or piers projected for half a mile through the sands directly, - which ought rather to have gone downwards a little towards the fall of - the tide. The cliffs here are of solid chalk to the very bottom, full - of the blackest flints; and those at Calais seem perfectly like them; - and no doubt a long vein of chalk is continued from one to the other - under the sea, and perhaps through many countries: but that these two - places were ever contiguous, or joined by an isthmus, is chimerical.</p> - - <p>Though the mariners have much mathematics on board, and in all their - tackle and machinery, yet here I had occasion of observing a gross - error, that has not been thought on, in the shape of their oars; where - the extremity of that fan-like part, which opposes the water in rowing, - is broadest. Now this is quite contrary to Nature’s method, who is the - best geometrician in like cases: in the shape of a single feather, - or in the wings of birds, the extremity is always pointed, and the - broadest part is nearest the joint where the power lies, analogous to - the <em>fulcrum</em> of leavers; therefore is drawn off to a narrower - scantling, as the part recedes from it, and the effect of the moving - force: thus it is even in the wings of butterflies, and all other - insects, as well as birds; and so in the water-beetles that row with - oars. Though the broad part resists the water more as farther distant - from the <em>fulcrum</em>, yet it requires more proportionable strength; - and in my judgment, therefore, oars ought to be made quite the contrary - way, and drawn off into a point, the broadest part nearest the hand; - and I doubt not but equal strength will then out-row the other, - <i lang="la">cæteris paribus</i>.<a id="FNanchor_122" href="#Footnote_122" class="fnanchor">[122]</a></p> - - <p>Beyond Dover southward the cliff is exceedingly high to Folkstone. - In the road two great Roman barrows, which will be eaten away in a - few years by the sea. Here this larger track of cliff ends, as to the - ocean, and slaunts off westward towards Wye in a long ledge very steep - all the way to the west. The whole county of Kent consists of three - or four of these parcels, lying parallel, and running nearly north - and south: they rise gently from the east as a reclining plain, and - then end suddenly on the western side with a quick descent: at bottom - begins another such plain, and it ends in like manner after it has - gone its proper distance, to be alike succeeded, as we said before. - Beyond this we are upon, southward is <span class="pagenum" id="Page_131">131</span>a lesser ledge of high ground - sandy and rocky, but good land, especially in the valleys, and full - of wood. This is terminated by Romney marsh, such another country as - our Lincolnshire Holland. To the right of us is Eleham, seated in a - pleasant concavity: there has been a religious house. Upon one end of - our upper chalk-hills, near Folkstone, is a camp called Castle hill.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_130"> - <div class="plateno"><i>98</i></div> - <img src="images/i_130.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="small col35"><b><i>Stukeley d, & Nobilissimo Comiti<br> - Winchilsea d. d</i>.</b></div> - <div class="col65"><b>View of Folkston —— <span class="smcap">Lapis titvli</span>.</b></div> - </figure> - - <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Lapis Tituli.</span></div> - - <p>Now descending, Folkstone<a id="FNanchor_123" href="#Footnote_123" class="fnanchor">[123]</a> offers itself, still standing on a - cliff, but not so high as the former, and of a rocky composure, - the other being chalk: it was anciently called <em>Flostane</em>, a - lesser rock, or cliff of stone; so that it probably was the <span class="sidenote">TAB. XCVIII.</span><i lang="la">lapis - tituli</i> of the Romans. Here is a copious spring runs through the - town. Near the church, upon the sea side, is a square plain, like that - I observed at Burgh in Lincolnshire, and was of the same use. I saw two - pieces of old wall hanging over the terrible cliff, seemingly of Roman - work: here are some old guns, one of iron of a very odd cast, no doubt - as old as Henry the Eighth’s time. Many Roman coins have been found - here. A nunnery was built by Eanswide, a religious daughter of Eadbald - king of Kent.</p> - - <p>I passed by Sandgate castle, another of those built by Henry VIII. - in a little valley where the shore is plain: then we enter upon the - beach. Here are many springs which come down from the higher ground, - and sink immediately into this beach, rendering it a little boggy: this - I thought very odd. You ride through a wood of sea-poppy, which is a - fine variety in nature, casting all the numerous seeds into a long - pod, instead of the common globular head: the leaves look hoary, like - sea-ragwort, and are finely crisped; the flowers of a most delicate - yellow, taken notice of by the poet,</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza" lang="la"> - <div class="i0"><i>Ore floridulo nitens</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Alba parthenice velut</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Luteumve papaver.</i> <span class="smcap fright">Catull.</span></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p>Hythe<span class="sidenote smcap">Hythe.</span> stands on the edge of this lesser ridge, but the marsh has - intercepted it from the sea. They talk much of their charnel-house full - of human bones, said to have been the massacred Danes; but I thought it - not worth going to see, nor believed their report of it. They say this - has been a great city, and reached as far as West Hythe, where is an - old ruinous chapel: they mean undoubtedly the city of <em>Lemanis</em>. - Here were two hospitals, St. Bartholomew’s, and St. Leonard’s.</p> - - <p>I visited Saltwood castle, in hopes to find somewhat Roman, as is - reported: it is a very strong seat of the archbishop’s: the outer wall - has towers and battlements, and a deep ditch: within, and on one side, - stands the main body of the place: two great and high towers at the - gate of this, over which are the founder’s arms, archbishop Courtney, - in two escutcheons; the first impaled with those of the see; the other - plain, a label over three plates. This inner work has a stronger and - higher wall, with a broad embattled parapet at top: within is a court, - but the lodgings are all demolished: the floor of the ruinous chapel is - strongly vaulted: in the middle of the court is a large square well, - which is the only thing I saw that looked like Roman. It is said that - hereabouts anchors are dug up; which, if true, is not owing to the - sea’s coming so high, as the vulgar think, for that is impossible; but - to an iron forge of the Romans, conveniently placed, where so much wood - grows, so near the sea, and so many ports. They say too that Roman - coins are found at Newington, not far off here.</p> - - <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_132">132</span></p> - - <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Lemanis</span> Portus.</div> - - <p>A little way further, at the end of the Stane-street,<a id="FNanchor_124" href="#Footnote_124" class="fnanchor">[124]</a> the Roman - road from Canterbury; and at a proper distance from thence is the port - of <em>Lemanis</em>.<span class="sidenote">TAB. XCIX.</span> I am surprized that some Kentish antiquaries should, - by pretended corrections of the Itinerary, send it farther off to the - southern coasts. As soon as I came to Limne church, looking from the - brow of the hill to the subjacent marshes, I descried the tattered - Roman walls, situate on this southern decline, almost at the bottom. - One would imagine the name came from the <em>Stone-street</em>; for such - it literally signifies, <i lang="la">via lapidea</i>: this is a solid rock of - stone laid out in a strait line between here and Canterbury. Thus in - Yorkshire another Roman road is called <em>Leming-lane</em>, from its - stony composure. <em>Lhe</em> signifies a way in British; <em>maen</em>, - a stone. Its present appellation of <em>Studfal</em> castle gives - occasion to some uncouth etymologies: without any difficulty I think - it derived from <em>stæd-weall</em>, the sea-shore, in Saxon; so that - it signifies no more than <i lang="la">castrum littoreum</i>. This fine remnant - of Roman work, and which was the garrison of the Turnacensian band, - hangs as it were upon the side of the hill; for it is pretty steep - in descent: the walls include about twelve acres of ground, in form - somewhat squarish, without any ditch: a pretty brook, arising from - the rock west of the church, runs for some space on the east side of - the wall; then passes through it, and so along its lowermost edge by - the farm-house at bottom. The composition of the wall is similar to - that of Richborough; but instead of hewn stone and regular courses, as - there, the interval between the three layers of Roman brick is made of - rag-stone: the brick too is of the same whitish kind, but remarkably - thin. I suppose the clay shrank much in burning. This interval of stone - is four feet of Roman standard: the walls are twelve foot thick, and - have some round holes at equal spaces, that run quite through, as we - observed at <em>Sorbiodunum</em> and <em>Verolanium</em> perhaps to let - the air in for drying the wall, being of so great a thickness. Here - are several of the circular, or rather elliptic buttments, as thick as - the wall, like those at the castle of <em>Garionenum</em>, near Yarmouth - in Norfolk, in <span class="sidenote">TAB. LVIII.</span><a href="#i_132_2">plate 58</a>. which my worthy and learned friend Mr. Hare - gave me from his own mensuration. It is a piece of masonry, I must own, - unaccountable to me: they are like round towers or bastions, but solid; - and some scarce join to the wall at the sides, but go quite through - to the inside. The circuit of this wall is manifest enough on three - sides, but that southward is levelled to the ground: every where else, - where not standing, it lies sideways, flat, close by, in prodigious - parcels; or where standing, cracked through the whole solid thickness, - as if Time was in a merry humour, and ruined it in sport: but I believe - it is the effect of design and much labour, as I said of Richborough: - probably the Saxons or Danes thus dismantled it, to render it useless - against their incursions. Where this wall is standing, it is ten foot - high or more, made with excellent cement: on the eastern side is such - another gate, formed by the return of the wall, as at the place last - mentioned. Geo. Hunt, an old man, living in the farm-house, told me - <span class="pagenum" id="Page_133">133</span>he has found coins here: he says, once the sea-bank broke, and - his house with all the adjacent marshes was floated: for the level of - the ocean is higher than this place; but it has fenced itself out by - raising the ground continually near the shore, as it does in other - like marshes. Whether the sea reached this lower wall, even in the - time of the Romans, I cannot determine; for I do not believe this was - the very port, but the castle belonging to it: that, I rather think, - was somewhat more eastward, about West Hithe; and there, the town - that belonged to it: for they find old foundations frequently under - the side of the hill, laid in strong terrace mortar. The rev. Mr. - Bagnal, minister of the place, informs me, that the field, of about - sixteen acres of ground, adjoining to the church-yard of Limne, is to - this day called the Northern town: nor do they know that it ever had - any other name; which intimates that the Roman town was thereabouts, - lying upon the slope of the hill, as the castle does, and to the east - of it. This port is now called Ship-way, where the <em>limenarcha</em>, - or lord warden of the cinque ports, was anciently sworn; where their - courts were kept, and all the pleas relating to these ports: since the - decay thereof, that ceremony is transferred to Dover. This Ship-way too - denominates the <em>lathe</em>, or division of the country. Leland says, - the people of Limne had an horn and mace, remaining ensigns of their - authority.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_132_1"> - <div class="plateno"><i>99</i></div> - <div><b><i>Dn<sup>o</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span> Hans Sloan Barr<sup>tto</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.6em;">.</span></i> <span class="allsmcap">M.D.</span> <i>Tabulam d.d. W - Stukeley.</i></b></div> - <div class="small"><b>LEMANIS Portus <i>9 Oct. 1722</i>.</b></div> - <img src="images/i_132_1.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley Delin.</i></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp68 mb4" id="i_132_2"> - <div class="plateno"><i>58</i></div> - <div><b>GARIONENVM</b></div> - <img src="images/i_132_2.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="small">The Manner of the Wall</div> - <div><b>Henrico Hare Arm<sup>o</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span> GARIONENVM sua manu dimensum consecrat</b><br> - <i class="small">W. Stukeley.</i></div> - <div><a href="#t_132">See transcription</a></div> - </figure> - - <p>Thus have we conducted our journey, for the space of 500 miles, all - upon Roman roads, to these three famous ports on the eastern shore, - where commonly the great Roman emperors and generals landed from the - continent; and in which we have run over such notices as occurred to us - in thirty-five Roman stations, many camps, and other things of highest - antiquity. The season of the year for expeditions being far spent, it - is time to release your lordship’s patience, and retire into harbour, - concluding with the great Roman wit, in his poetical voyage,</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza" lang="la"> - <div class="i0"><i>Lemanis longæ finis chartæque, viæque.</i></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <div class="right">10 Octob. 1722.</div> - - <div class="chapter"> - <span class="pagenum" id="Page_134">134</span> - <hr class="full thick"> - <hr class="full mt0"> - <h2 class="nobreak" id="ITER_DUMNONIENSE"><span class="gesperrt1">ITER DUMNONIENSE</span>. VI.</h2> - </div> - - <hr class="full"> - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry" lang="la"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0"><i>Ipse locis capitur patriis & singula lætus</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Exquiritque, auditque virûm monumenta priorum.</i> <span class="smcap fright">Virg.</span></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - <hr class="full"> - - <div class="center bold mt3 lh1"><i>To my Lord</i><span class="gesperrt1"> PEMBROKE</span>.</div> - - <p class="drop-cap">I Have sometimes in travelling been apt, within my own mind, to make a - comparison between the excellence of the study of Philosophy, and that - commonly called Antiquity, that is, ancient history. The beauties and - the advantage of natural inquiries I cannot but be highly sensible of; - yet I must needs give the preference to the latter, as it more nearly - concerns the rational part of the creation, for whom the whole was - made: it is a comment upon the wonderful volumes of divine wisdom, and - the conduct of providence in the management of its supreme workmanship. - God has given us indeed a large manuscript of his power, and other - adorable attributes, in his wide-extended products, the furniture of - the world; but in man, a more correct epitome of himself; a delegated - immaterial particle of his spirituality, a self-moving principle of - free agency, from the very fountain of all existence. As he is the - great master-wheel and <i lang="la">primum movens</i>; so we are the subordinate - executors of his mighty purposes, by his direction and superintendence - carrying on the regular government and unseen operations thereof. - Whoever declaims against this, ought to be looked upon as one of a - poor, narrow way of thinking, and who does not deserve so much as that - noble faculty of the soul, reminiscence or memory, which is the same - to a single man, as ancient history is to the whole community: such a - one no more claims the name of a scholar, than he that knows but the - letters of the Alphabet, or whose study consists only in Gazettes. It - is the knowledge of antiquity that can give us a maturity in judgement, - either in persons or things; and how unfit such a one is, that is - destitute of it, in the executing the great offices of life, I need not - inculcate.</p> - - <p>But nothing I can say in favour of this subject, can be so great a - panegyric to it, as your lordship’s illustrious name prefixed. The - glorious ardour for this kind of learning, that kindled in your - younger years, and that through a long cultivation of it has produced - a boundless extent of knowledge, with the deepest penetration, the - strongest judgement, the fire of the soul, and all sublimest qualities - which the world admires in your lordship; bears down all opposition to - the study of antiquities, wherein you preside most worthily; wherein no - one dares to be rival, or hopes to be equal. We see the fruits of it in - the best-chosen library of ancient authors, in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_135">135</span> the best collection of - most ancient coins, statues, busto’s, and learned marbles, which the - world can show. You, my lord, by treading in the steps of the great - Arundel, have brought old arts, Greece and Rome, nay Apollo and all his - Muses, to Great Britain: Wilton is become tramontane Italy.</p> - - <p>Every part of learning is your lordship’s province, and sure of your - protection. But I have a particular happiness in laying before you - the following account of this summer’s journey, because the greatest - part of it was by your own direction, and as excursions I made whilst - at your lordship’s most delightful seat at Wilton. I shall begin with - what I observed in my tour about it, and proceed to my more western - perambulation through a country pregnant of antiquities, and the - greatest curiosities in the world.</p> - - <p>The <em>Belgæ</em>, the ancient inhabitants of this country, were a brave - and warlike people, when on their original continent; and we have no - reason to think, after transplantation on the British soil, they abated - aught of their courage and valour, natural to its inhabitants. These - were one of those powerful nations, whose conquest gave opportunity - to the emperor Vespasian highly to signalize his conduct when he - first made a figure in arms. Hence it is that we find so many camps - hereabouts, from the sea side to the midland parts; many of which were - made by him, and others by his undaunted opposers. The road from Wilton - to Shaftesbury, called the Ten-mile Course, is a fine ridge of downs, - continued upon the southern bank of the river Nader, with a sweet - prospect to the right and left, all the way, over the towns and the - country on both sides: a traveller is highly indebted to your lordship - for adding to his pleasure and advantage, in reviving the Roman method - of placing a numbered stone at every mile, and the living index of a - tree to make it more observable; which ought to be recommended as a - laudable pattern to others: thus C. Gracchus planted a stone at every - mile, with the distance inscribed, says Plutarch; and thus Rutilius, - Itinerar. II.</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza" lang="la"> - <div class="i0"><i>Intervalla viæ fessis præstare videtur,</i></div> - <div class="i3"><i>Qui notat inscriptus millia crebra lapis.</i></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p>Between N<sup>o</sup> 5. and 6. is a pretty large camp, called<span class="sidenote smcap">Chiselbury.</span> Chiselbury, upon - the northern brow of the hill: it is single ditched and of a roundish - form: before the chief entrance is an half-moon, with two apertures - for greater security: there is a ditch indeed goes from it downward - to the valley on both sides, but not to be regarded. This I imagine - relates not to the camp; for I observed the like across the same road - in many places between little declivities, and seem to be boundaries - and sheep-walks made since, and belonging to particular parishes. I - fancy this name imparted from some shepherd’s cot, anciently standing - hereabouts, in Saxon <em>Ccsol</em>. It seems to be a Roman camp, but - of later date. At the end of this course, when you come to the great - chalk-hill looking towards Shaftesbury, are three or four Celtic - barrows, one long and large, pointing east and west: in this hill is a - quarry of stone, very full of sea-shells. Not far off, in the parish - of Tisbury, near Warder castle, is a great intrenchment in a wood, - which was probably a <span class="sidenote">Br. <i>oppidum</i>.</span>British <em>oppidum</em>, and near the river before - mentioned.</p> - - <p>Returning, we see upon the highest eminence that overlooks Wilton, - and the fertile valley at the union of the Nader and Willy, the - famous King-barrow, as vulgarly called: it is a round <span class="sidenote">Carvilii <i>tumulus</i>.</span><em>tumulus</em>, - of a most ancient<span class="pagenum" id="Page_136">136</span> form, flat at top, and without any ditch. Your - lordship rightly judges it in situation to be one of the highest - barrows in England, being, by exact observation from the water-level - and calculation, at least four hundred foot above the surface of the - ocean. This, questionless, is a Celtic <em>tumulus</em>: and the very - name, inherent through long revolutions of time, indicates it to be - the grave of a king of this country of the <em>Belgæ</em>, and that - Wilton was his royal residence, which for goodness of air, of water - and soil, joined with the most delightful downs all around it, must - highly magnify his judgement in choice of a place second to none for - all the conveniences and delicacies of life. If we reflect a little - upon the matter, it appears a supposition far from improbability, - that this is the very monument of Carvilius mentioned by Cæsar, who, - joining with the other kings along the country on the sea-side from - hence to Kent, attacked his sea-camp on the Rutupian shore: and this - was to make a diversion to the great Roman general, pressing hard upon - Cassibelan; for, as the late learned and sagacious Mr. Baxter observes - in his Glossary, where should <em>Carvilius</em> live, but among the - <em>Carvilii</em>? as <em>Segonax</em>, one of his confederates, among the - <em>Segontiaci</em>; that is, <em>Segontium</em>, or <em>Caersegont</em>, - as the Britons call it; which is now Silchester. And it seems to - have been the fashion of that time for kings to be denominated from - the people or place they governed; as <em>Cassibelan</em> was in name - and fact king of the <em>Cassii</em>; and many other instances I might - bring of like nature. Where then should <em>Carvilius</em> live, but - at <em>Carvilium</em>, now Wilton; or where be buried, but in the most - conspicuous place near his palace? and no other barrow competitor to - leave any doubt or scruple. It is natural to suppose that the very spot - where his residence was, is the same where king Edgar’s queen spent - the latter part of her life in a religious house she built near your - lordship’s seat, being a hard dry soil, gravelly, and incompassed with - two fine rivers, which in early times added much to the security of - the place, and much sought for by the Britons. We took notice, when - with particular pleasure we visited his <em>tumulus</em>, and paid our - respects to the illustrious <em>manes</em> of the royal defunct, that, - among other views of great distance, we could see Long-barrow beyond - Stonehenge, and all the long ridge of Martinsal hill, St. Ann’s hill, - and Runwayhill beyond that; upon which goes the great Wansdike, which I - take to be the northern boundary of the Belgic kingdom. I question not - but one purpose of this interment was to be in sight of the holy work, - or temple, of Stonehenge. Here then may we conclude rest the ashes of - Carvilius, made immortal by Caæsar for bravely defending his country; - now resting in the possessions of a successor, master of both their - great qualities; who, when wielding the British trident, in a fleet - infinitely superior to Cæsar’s, could assert a more universal empire. - In you, my lord, the memory of Carvilius flourishes again, in your - eminent love for your country’s honour, and in your care for preserving - his monument, and adorning it with fresh verdure; by planting four - trees round its edge,<a id="FNanchor_125" href="#Footnote_125" class="fnanchor">[125]</a> and introducing it as a <em>terminus</em>, in - one of the visto’s, to the admirable equestrian statue of M. Aurelius, - in the middle of the principal star of your park. Thus, according to - ancient usage, was the <em>tumulus</em> of Diomedes planted with the - <em>platanus</em> brought from Asia for that purpose; as Pliny informs us - in book XII. cap. <span class="allsmcap">i</span>.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_137_1"> - <div class="plateno"><i>41</i></div> - <div><b>Chlori <i>Imp. Castrum vulgo</i> Clorendon <i>Aug. 25. 1723</i>.</b></div> - <img src="images/i_137_1.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley del:</i></div> - <figcaption class="small">A. <i>Icening Street.</i> B. <i>Old Sarum.</i> C. <i>New Sarum.</i> D. - <i>Clarendon Park.</i> E. <i>Ford.</i></figcaption> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_137_2"> - <div class="plateno"><i>67</i></div> - <div><b><i>View from</i> Harnham hill <i>Aug 26. 1723.</i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_137_2.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div> - </figure> - - <p class="clear"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_137">137</span></p> - - <p>From hence riding along the hare-warren and end of the park, we are - entertained with the landscape of no less than five rivers, four - retaining the old British names: the villages on each side of them are - so thick, that they seem to join and form long cities in woods. About - the union of these rivers are three cities and three cathedrals within - a triangle, whose sides are less than three miles; Wilton, Old and New - Sarum. The <em>Nadre</em> signifies a snake or adder, metaphorically - drawn from its winding current: it rises by the end of the Ten-mile - course above described, and passes by a pleasant village belonging - to your lordship, Chilmark, famous for its quarries; of a very good - stone, white, and that rises in any dimensions: there is now a single - stone, lying over the mouth of the quarry like an architrave, full - sixty foot long, twelve foot thick, and, as the workmen have assured - me upon examination, perfectly without flaw: sometimes here are found - great petrified oyster-shells. The Willy rises about Warminster, - taking in a little brook, the Dyver, passing under ground, runs by - <span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Yarnbury.</span> Ro. <i>camp</i>.</span>Yarnbury, a vast Roman camp, where some think is Vespasian’s name; a - great semi-circular work at the entrance: several Roman coins have been - found here. Not far off is a ditch called Chiltern, which seems to be - some division of the hundreds. There is another camp on the other side - the Willy: then it runs by Grovely, a great wood of your lordship’s: - it admits another stream coming on the west side of Stonehenge from - Orcheston, remarkable for a long kind of grass, which without good - proof I should scruple relating, for it is commonly twenty-five foot - in length, much coveted by cattle; by Mr. Ray called <i lang="la">gramen caninum - supinum longissimum</i>: he says they use to fatten hogs with it. This - Willy, that gives name to Wilton, passes chiefly on the north side - of the town, makes the canal before the front of the house, and then - joins the Nadre, coming on the south side of the town and through the - gardens, at the end of the avenue. The Avon arises from under the great - ridge of hills that divides Wiltshire into north and south, crowned - with the Wansditch: it passes southward through innumerable villages - to <span class="sidenote smcap">Amsbury.</span>Ambsbury, the <i lang="la">pagus Ambri</i> famous for a monastery built by - one Ambrus, which the monks and fabulous writers have wrested into - <em>Ambrosbury</em>; then for a celebrated nunnery of noble-women, great - numbers of whom, against the institution of Nature and Providence, - were here veiled: it is now the seat of my lord Charlton, built by - Inigo Jones, and deservedly to be admired: some new works are added - to it under the direction of my lord Burlington, possessor of his - spirit, and a noble collection of his designs. The famous old city of - <em>Sorbiodunum</em> may be said to stand upon this river: it meets with - the other two just before it passes through Salisbury, and beyond it - receives the Bourn, which has dropped its proper name: but I guess it - to have been <em>Colin</em> or <em>Colinity</em>, the same as <em>Clun</em>; - for at its fountain-head is <em>Colinburn</em>: all these rivers are - called <em>burns</em>, <em>Willyburn</em>, <em>Adderburn</em>, &c. below - Salisbury enters another, I suppose called <em>Ebbesburn</em>. From - Harnham hill we have a view of <span class="sidenote">TAB. LXVII.</span>both Sarums: the old city, with its - high-crested triple fortifications, threatens all the circumjacent - country: the new justly boasts of its lofty spire, as wonderful for the - slenderness of its foundation, as its great height, being 450 foot, - making one of the visto’s to the front of Wilton-house. To the east - is <span class="sidenote smcap">Chloridunum.</span>Clarendon, which your lordship first observed, from old writings, - ought to be called <em>Clorendun</em>, from the famous Roman camp<span class="sidenote">TAB. XLI.</span> half - a mile off the park near the Roman road: this was made or repaired by - Constantius Chlorus, father of Constantine the Great; it was he that - slew Allectus, after he had basely murdered the valiant Carausius. - Constantius lived at the neighbouring <em>Sorbiodunum</em>: he was of - British<span class="pagenum" id="Page_138">138</span> extract, the husband of Helena, a famous British princess. - This camp therefore, properly written, is <em>Chloridunum</em>, being a - beautiful fortification of a round form upon a dry chalk hill: within - is a circular ditch, having two entrances answering to the entrances of - the camp, and leaving a large space between it and the <em>vallum</em>. I - suppose this ditch was a lesser camp before, inlarged by Chlorus, for - keeping his legions as in a summer-camp before the city: this they did - by carrying away all the earth of the old <em>vallum</em> to the new; - for it is evident the present rampart is of much larger quantity than - could be taken out of the subjacent ditch. <span class="sidenote">TAB. IX.</span>Chlorendon park is a sweet - and beautiful place: here king John built him a palace, where several - Parliaments have been held: part of the building is still left, though - they have been pulling it down many years: it is chiefly of flint, and - was a large place upon the side of a hill, but no way fortified. This - palace of king John answers directly to the front visto of Wilton house - over the length of the great canal, and is called the King’s Manor: - they say here is a subterraneous passage to the Queen’s Manor. Between - the camp and the park runs a Roman road, which has not been taken - notice of, from <em>Sorbiodunum</em> to Winchester full east and west.</p> - - <p>As we go from Wilton to Stonehenge, between Grovely wood and Woodford - runs a ditch across the plain, with a high rampart southward: the - ditch is broad, and goes east and west. I take it to be one of the - boundaries of the <em>Belgæ</em>, which I call the third: the reason will - hereafter appear. On the east side of the Avon, by Great Dornford, is - a very large camp covering the whole top of a hill, of no determinate - figure, as humouring the height it stands on: it is made intirely - without any ditch, the earth being heaped up very steep in the nature - of a parapet, when dug away level at the bottom. <span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Aukbury.</span> Br. <i>oppidum</i>.</span>I doubt not but - this was a camp of the Britons, and perhaps an <em>oppidum</em>, where - they retired at night from the pasturage upon the river, with their - cattle: within it are many little banks, carried strait and meeting one - another at right angles, square, oblong parallels and some oblique, - as the meres and divisions between ploughed lands; yet it seems - never to have been ploughed: and there is likewise a small squarish - work intrenched, no bigger than a large tent: these to me seem the - distinctions and divisions for the several quarters and lodgements of - the people within; for I have, upon the downs in Dorsetshire, often - remarked the like, of too small a compass to be ploughed fields. This - camp has an aspect very old; the prominent part of the rampart in - many places quite consumed by time, though the steep remains perfect; - one being the natural earth, the other factitious: it certainly has - so much of the manner of Vespasian’s camp, as induces one to think - it an imitation. I know not whether we ought to derive the name of - it from the British <em>Og</em>, signifying the hurdles and pens they - fence their cattle in with, which perhaps stood upon those meres, or - little banks, to distinguish every man’s property. Vespasian’s camp - is within sight of it, a little higher up the river, and on the other - side: it is a famous camp, properly and by universal consent attributed - to him, called the <span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Walls.</span> Vespasian’s <i>camp</i>.</span>Walls; well chose, being a high piece of ground - at a flexure of the river, which closes in an end and a side of it: - the other side has a broad and very deep valley along it, and at the - other end is the entrance: the whole hangs over the town of Amsbury: - the manner of this camp too consists mostly in a rampire, but much - more operose than that last mentioned; the form oblong: the road to - the town goes quite through it: it is high in the middle, and has a - barrow inclosed, but partly level; this I suppose originally Celtic, on - account of its vicinity to Stonehenge, therefore<span class="pagenum" id="Page_139">139</span> elder than the - camp. The east side of Vespasian’s camp is sufficiently guarded by the - precipice of the river. Further northwards, in the road from Ambsbury - to Marlborough, is the remain of another round camp, extremely old, - and almost obliterated: this is between Collinburn and Burbich, upon - a rising ground, seemingly British: and on the west side of the river - Avon, over-against it, is another, called too <span class="sidenote smcap">Cheselbury.</span>Cheselbury, and said to - have a fair <em>prætorium</em> in it. These camps so contiguous, with a - river between, seem still remains of Vespasian’s conquests; and that he - got the country by inches.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb3" id="i_138"> - <div class="plateno"><i>9</i></div> - <img src="images/i_138.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <figcaption>Ruins of King Johns Palace at Clarendon Aug. 3. 1723.</figcaption> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb3" id="i_139"> - <div class="plateno"><i>44</i></div> - <div><b>Prospect of Martinsal hill, a Roman Camp 6 July 1723.</b></div> - <img src="images/i_139a.jpg" alt=""> - <div><b>A Prospect in Somersetshire 19. Aug. 1723.</b></div> - <img src="images/i_139b.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley del:</i></div> - <figcaption class="small">a. <i>Mountagu hill.</i> b. <i>a Camp.</i> c. <i>the Foss Road.</i></figcaption> - </figure> - - <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Martinshal Hill.</span> Ro. <i>camp</i>.</div> - - <p>North of these is Martinsal hill, a vast stationary Roman camp, upon - a high hill steep to the east, which is seldom observable. I measured - it quite round, in company with lord Hertford and lord Winchelsea: - it is conspicuous at a great distance, and within sight of all the - camps in the country. I take it to have<span class="sidenote">TAB. XLIV.</span> been made when the Romans - were thoroughly possessors of the kingdom, and one of their chief - fortresses, whence they might give or receive signals all around, in - case of distress, by fire or smoke. On two sides the precipice is - dreadfully steep. Lord Winchelsea has a brass <em>Alexander Severus</em> - found here; on the reverse, <em>Jupiter fulminans</em>, with PM. TR. - P. COS. On the west side, upon the top of the hill, without the camp - is a round pit full of good spring water, always to the brim but - never overflowing in the driest summers; which at those seasons is of - greatest service to the country round, and thousands of cattle are - driven every day from a considerable distance to drink there. I am - told there is another such upon the top of Chute hill, south east from - hence, very high, and no water within some miles of it. So provident - has Nature been in subliming, by some unknown powers, the liquid - element to these barren heights, that every part of her works should - not be without its graces and use. The prospect from Martinsal must - needs be exceeding fine. Salisbury steeple, twenty miles off, bears - south-west and by west: the port of this camp is north-east.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Martinalia.</div> - - <p>I take the name of this hill to come from the merriments among the - northern people, called <em>Martinalia</em>, or drinking healths to the - memory of St. Martin, practised by our Saxon and Danish ancestors. - I doubt not but upon St. Martin’s day, or Martinmass, all the young - people in the neighbourhood assembled here,<a id="FNanchor_126" href="#Footnote_126" class="fnanchor">[126]</a> as they do now upon - the adjacent St. Ann’s hill upon St. Ann’s day. The true word is - <em>Martinsheil</em>, <em>heyl</em> signifying health; and the Germans call - a bowl, or drinking-vessel, <em>schale</em>: likewise <em>hali</em> in the - Saxon signifies holy; whence our <em>hallow</em>; and the <em>Washeyl</em> - bowl at Christmass, full of spiced ale, which they carry about, singing - of carols in the streets. Monsieur Keysler speaks of these matters - largely in his <cite>Antiquitates Septentrionales</cite>, p. 358. and that - the German gilds, or societies, were obliged to keep drinking festivals - to St. Mary, St. Martin, St. Nicholas, &c. p. 487. he says, at a - village in <em>tractu Albino</em>, the married women upon St. Martin’s - day pay 4 d. to the questor: and the Spring upon this hill still - further favoured their ceremonies. So beneficial a bason in heathen - times merited divine honours; and the people, not willing to part with - a holy-day, blended their rites into christian. The English took the - opportunity of <span class="pagenum" id="Page_140">140</span>the day after this great festival of St. Martin, much - observed by the Danes, to commit that universal massacre upon them - drunken, which totally extirpated them. This was anno 1002, upon the - 13th of November, the feast day of St. Brittius, says Chron. Joann. - Alb. Petriburg. on <em>Hock</em> Tuesday, which Spelman says had its - denomination thence.</p> - - <p>In the fields about Chute are bones dug up very plentifully, in a - place called Blood-field especially: they likewise found there a stone - coffin with a skeleton inclosed, and an arrow or spear-head of brass, - as described to me: there was a horse found buried about three yards - from the body. Whether this was Roman or British, I cannot affirm: I am - inclinable to think the latter: but it seems that a battle was fought - here between them.</p> - - <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Barbury.</span> Ro. <i>camp</i>.</div> - - <p>Full north from hence, upon the Barbury hills, the next ridge - overlooking the north part of Wiltshire, is another camp, called - Barbury, in the parish of Ogburn St. George. The noble lords late - mentioned assisted in measuring it: it is double ditched quite round, - the inner very deep, and rampart high, of a circular form; an entrance - upon the east, and another on the west diameter, which is 2000 Roman - foot long: at the west the inmost rampire retires inwards a little, - to make a port with jambs: eastward the outer ditch turns round with - a semi-circular sweep, leaving two passages through it obliquely to - the main entrance, like our modern half-moons: both these methods I - have often seen practised.<a id="FNanchor_127" href="#Footnote_127" class="fnanchor">[127]</a> This mighty camp stands on one of the - western eminences of this ridge, running east and west; very steep - to the north and west, separating the high ground or downs from the - fertile country below, which belonged to the <em>Dobuni</em>, and lies - under the eye like a map, as far as the Welsh hills beyond the Severn; - whose lovely prospect would naturally animate the Britons in its - defence, as the Romans in its conquest: it is indeed a fine scene of - woods, towns, pastures, rivers and valleys. A little beyond, upon the - same ridge, is <span class="sidenote smcap">Badbury.</span>Badbury camp; and the whole is well planted with stout - camps and frequent, the eye-sore and terror of the plain: hence you see - Martinsal camp and many more.</p> - - <div class="sidenote">Ro. <i>road to</i> <span class="smcap">Bath. via Badonica.</span></div> - - <p>Having recited these matters as preliminary, I shall begin my journey - from Marlborough, the Roman <em>Cunetio</em>. I forbear speaking of the - infinite number of Celtic monuments I have found in this country, - designing them for a particular treatise, to be honoured with your - lordship’s illustrious name; and from Marlborough pursue the Roman - road, which we have before traced from Newbury hither, and lately - discovered its whole progress toward the Bath, which for distinction - sake we may call <em>Via Badonica</em>: its course is east and west: - it goes hence all along the north side of the Kennet river, between - it and the high grounds; and is the present road, but highly wants a - Roman hand to repair it. When we have rode about a mile, over-against - Clatford, at a flexure of the river, we meet with several very great - stones, about a dozen in number, which probably was a Celtic temple, - and stood in a circle: this form in a great measure they still - preserve. I guess the Romans buried them in the ground under their - road, because directly in its passage: the materials throughout have - since been worn away, or sunk into the ground, being in this place - meadow, and so has restored their huge bulk to day-light. Hence - it proceeds directly up to the famous Overton hill, where I first - discovered its ridge, when surveying the beautiful circle of stones - there, belonging to the majestic temple of the old Britons<span class="pagenum" id="Page_141">141</span> at Abury: - this ridge is a little to the north of the present road, somewhat - higher up the hill; it points directly east and west, one end to - Marlborough, the other to Silbury hill: and this shows a defect in - our maps, which place Abury too much to the south: it is perfect for - some space over the down; but upon descending the hill westward, they - have ploughed it up, and found several Roman coins near it, some of - which I have by me.<a id="FNanchor_128" href="#Footnote_128" class="fnanchor">[128]</a> At the bottom, by the corner of the hedge, - it meets again the common road near the White-hart ale-house; and so - they go together above West Kennet to Silbury-hill: this was the post - and coach road to the Bath, till, for want of reparation, they were - forced to find a new one, more northward upon the downs, and farther - about, through the town of Abury: when on the south side of Silbury - hill, it goes very strait and full west through the corn-fields on - the south of Bekhamton, where it is sufficiently known by the name of - the French way; for what reason I cannot imagine. They have of late - endeavoured to exclude travellers going upon it, by inclosing it at - both ends with ditches; but the badness of the lower road has defeated - their purpose, and made people still assert the public right. Beyond - Bekhamton it again enters the downs, and marches up the hill in a very - plain ridge, and beautiful to behold; the pits and cavities whence the - earth was taken, on both sides, being conspicuous all the way: besides, - the Romans have defaced a druid’s barrow, and another Celtic one near, - which saved them some labour: a proof they were there before the Roman - road; but this is not a proper place to enlarge upon it. When it has - gained the summit of the hill, it leaves <span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Oldbury.</span> Ro. <i>camp</i>.</span>Oldbury castle a little to the - north: this is a great and strong <span class="sidenote">TAB. XLII.</span>Roman camp on the north-west point - of the hill, overlooking Calne: the precipice on those two sides is - altogether inaccessible, falling down in narrow cavities or ribs, as - it were the great roots of a tree, with an odd and tremendous aspect; - and that way there was need but of very slender work for its security: - but on the other sides it is double ditched, having but one entrance - to the east, and that fortified with a return of the outer ditch and - inner rampire, very artificially: there is a ditch likewise across the - middle, as if it had been inlarged with an additional intake westward: - it is in the main of a squarish form, and has a very fine prospect. - On the northern limit, in the highest part, seems to have been a - <em>prætorium</em>. On this hill, which is wholly a chalky down, with a - most delicate turf (and softer to walk upon than a Turky carpet) about - a foot or two under the superficial earth, they dig great quantities - of flints to mend the highways withal: one would imagine they had - been spewed out of the hardening chalk at the creation, as extraneous - bodies, though of greater specific gravity than itself.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_141"> - <div class="plateno"><i>42</i></div> - <div><b>Oldbury Castle <i>11 Iuly. 1723</i>.</b></div> - <img src="images/i_141.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div> - </figure> - - <p class="clear">Return we to the Roman road, which proceeds across another valley, and - so towards Runway hill, the highest in all these parts. This was famous - for a battle in the late civil wars; and they oft find the bullets, - when digging for the pebbles as afore mentioned; and below the hill - they plough up the bones of the slain: but much more is Runway eminent - for two mighty works of antiquity, this Roman way, and Wansdike. The - most lovely prospect here will tempt even a hasty traveller to cast - his eyes about him, and see all the country far beyond the Bath, - and so proportionably quite around. I am not doubtful that it takes - its name from the Roman way, which here has an unusual and the most - curious appearance of any I have seen. I took pleasure in examining - the particularity of it more than once; and it is a masterstroke of - skill to conduct it down the north side of this long and steep hill - <span class="pagenum" id="Page_142">142</span>(as I have so often remarked to be the condition of northern heights) - to render it easy, or even practicable. When from the top of this hill - you look towards Marlborough, which is full east, you may discern - that the road curves a little northward, not discernible but in the - whole: the reason is to be attributed to the river Kennet, thrusting - it out somewhat that way; otherwise the true line should have lain a - little more to the south of Silbury. To the right you see <span class="sidenote smcap">Wansdike.</span>Wansdike, - creeping all along from south of Marlborough (about two mile) upon the - northern edge of the great ridge of hills, parting North and South - Wiltshire, till it descends St. Ann’s hill; and makes several right - angles to humour the edges of the other hills: the <em>vallum</em> is - always on the south side, and the higher ground behind it: then it - mounts up to the highest <em>apex</em> of Runway hill. But the method - of the Roman road is this: it goes along the northern side of this - hill, preserving itself upon the level, being cut like a terrace-walk, - with a parapet before it next the precipice; and that winding in and - out, as the curvatures of the hill require: it passes just by Calston - lime-kiln, and is defaced by it; for the workmen make no scruple to - dig through it for their materials, and this practice has been so old - as to denominate the town lying beneath. Soon after, it meets with the - Wansdike, descending the hill just by the gibbet: here it enters full - into it, and very dexterously makes use of it, all along to the bottom, - on a very convenient shelf, or spurn of the hill: at the place of union - is a flexure of the Wansdike, so that the Roman road coincides with it - directly; and in order to raise it from a ditch into a road, the Roman - workmen have thrown in most part of the rampire, still preserving it as - a terrace to prevent the danger, and the terror of the descent on one side.</p> - - <p>I shall mention, upon another occasion, some other observations - I have made long since, that overthrow the notion of those that - imagine Wansdike was cast up by the Saxons, as a limit of the West - Saxon and Mercian kingdoms, or that its name is derived from their - god <em>Woden</em>: but here we have a most incontestable proof that - it was in being before the Roman times; and its very name shows - it, signifying, in the old British language, the division dike, - <em>guaban</em>, <em>distinctio</em>, <em>separatio</em>: it is indeed the - work of the <em>Belgæ</em>, their fourth and last boundary. These two, - the Roman road and Wansdike, go together after this manner, till they - enter the inclosures a little north of Hedington town below Runway - hill. At Calston is a most famous spring, or cataract of water, - coming out of the chalk-hill, and much talked of. Wansdike was made - by the people of the south, to cover their country, as the mode of it - sufficiently testifies, and, as we said before, was the most northern - bounds of the Belgic kingdom. When from the top of these hills you view - the Roman road, towards the west you see it butts full upon the Bath, - or that great chink between Lansdown and the banks of the river Avon - going to Bristol.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Verlucio.</div> - - <div class="sidenote">TAB. LXVIII.</div> - - <p>I had no sooner traced out this road, but I found a fair opportunity - presented of setting the antiquaries right, as to part of the XIVth - journey of Antoninus his Itinerary, in which they have hitherto - been much perplexed. I found no manner of difficulty in settling - <em>Verlucio</em> at Hedington; <em>Hedda’s</em> town, <em>Heddan</em> - genitivo. This town is but small at present, lying at the bottom of - this great hill in a rich marly country. The inhabitants are not - surprised when you inquire for antiquities; they assert it to have been - a very old and great city: infinite quantities of antiquities are found - here: handfuls of coins brought home every time they plough, (madam - Whitlock has many) and the streets and foundations of houses found for - a great length,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_143">143</span> sufficiently evince it.<a id="FNanchor_129" href="#Footnote_129" class="fnanchor">[129]</a> Reuben Horsal, clerk - of Abury, told me, he had seen a gallon of Roman coin taken up at a - time in Hedington field, in an urn covered with a stone. I suppose - its original name was <em>Verolucio</em>, as <em>Verolanium</em>, &c. and - then it signifies, in the old Celtic, the white habitation, <em>vrô - llug</em>; <em>llug</em> denoting splendid, as <em>Lugdunum</em>, a white - hill; the same as the Greek Λευκος <em>albus</em>: if <em>lug</em> imports - pure water, then it must relate to Calston spring, breaking forth like - a cascade: if we take the word <em>gloyii</em>, <em>limpidus</em>, it is - all one. It must be noted, that both the XIIIth and XIVth journeys of - Antoninus his Itinerary are abominably corrupted, and want a healing - hand as much as any throughout: and being both one journey by a - different route, I shall undertake thus to restore them.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_142"> - <div class="plateno"><i>68</i></div> - <div><b><i>Prospect of Hedington. <span class="small">18 July 1723.</span></i></b></div> - <div class="small smcap"><b>Verlvcio</b></div> - <img src="images/i_142.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div> - </figure> - - <div class="center clear"><span class="gesperrt2">ITER </span>XIII.<br> - <i>Ab Isca Callevam</i> <i>M. P.</i> CXXXIX. <i>sic</i></div> - - <table class="mt2"> - <tbody> - <tr> - <td><i>Isca leg.</i> II. <i>Aug.</i></td> - <td style="padding-left: 2.4em;">Caerleon</td> - <td> </td> - <td rowspan="9"> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Burrium</i></td> - <td style="padding-left: 2.4em;">Usk</td> - <td class="tdc"><div>IX</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Blescium</i></td> - <td style="padding-left: 2.4em;">Old town</td> - <td class="tdc"><div>XI</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Ariconium</i></td> - <td style="padding-left: 2.4em;">Kenchester</td> - <td class="tdc"><div>XI</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Glevum colonia</i></td> - <td style="padding-left: 2.4em;">Glocester</td> - <td class="tdc"><div>XXXV</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Durocorinium</i></td> - <td style="padding-left: 2.4em;">Cirencester</td> - <td class="tdc"><div>XIV</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td style="padding-left: 1.6em;">Cunetio</td> - <td><i>Marlborough</i></td> - <td>XIX</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Spinas</i></td> - <td style="padding-left: 2.4em;">Newberry</td> - <td class="tdc"><div>XV</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td style="padding-left: 1.6em;">Vindoma</td> - <td><i>Silchester</i></td> - <td>X</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Caleva Atrebatum</i></td> - <td style="padding-left: 2.4em;">Farnham</td> - <td class="tdc"><div>XV.</div></td> - <td><i>toto</i> CXXXIX.</td> - </tr> - </tbody> - </table> - - <p>In the copies the sum total is set down CIX. miles; when, if you cast - up the particulars, it amounts to no more than XC. so that no less than - nineteen in the original is lost: this shows plainly that some station - is dropped out, and geography itself indispensably demonstrates it. Mr. - Fulk was sensible of some deficiency, by his adding <em>Gobannium</em>, - though thereby he hit not the white: in truth, both stations and - numbers are wanting; for it is notorious that the distance between - <em>Ariconium</em> and <em>Glevum</em>, places sufficiently known, and - about which we have no contest, is much too little, when set down only - XV. mile; and XX. must unavoidably be added. Though I am as cautious - as any man living in laying hand upon these venerable remains, and - altering them; yet, where nature and reason absolutely require it, - I have not the least fear in adding two stations, which are quite - slipped out from the original: between Cirencester and Newberry - it is evident <em>Cunetio</em> must be interposed, or the distance - heightened to twice as much: the truth is, one station is intermitted, - <em>Cunetio</em>: and the like between <em>Spinas</em> and <em>Calleva</em>; - for <em>Vindoma</em>, or Silchester, must be added, beyond which is our - <em>Calleva</em>, or Farnham; all in a strait line, and upon a Roman road - from <em>Aricomum</em>. Cast up the whole account, it comes to CXXXIX. - instead of CIX. then all the difficulties that have hitherto obscured - this journey, vanish: they that compare William Harrison’s first copy - with the others of this journey, will not be surprised at the effects - of negligent transcribers, when, out of seven names in other books, he - has missed two; and so frequently in other journeys. In the next place - I offer this as the true reading of the fourteenth journey of Antoninus.</p> - - <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_144">144</span></p> - - <div class="center"><span class="gesperrt2">ITER </span>XIIII.<br> - <i>Alio itinere ab Isca Callevam</i> <i>M. P.</i> CIII. <i>sic</i></div> - - <table class="mt2"> - <tbody> - <tr> - <td><i>Isca leg.</i> II. <i>Aug.</i></td> - <td style="padding-left: 2.4em;">Caerleon</td> - <td> </td> - <td rowspan="9"> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Venta silurum</i></td> - <td style="padding-left: 2.4em;">Caerguent</td> - <td class="tdc"><div>IX</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Trajectus</i></td> - <td style="padding-left: 2.4em;">Old-bury</td> - <td class="tdc"><div>IX</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Abone</i></td> - <td style="padding-left: 2.4em;">Henbury</td> - <td class="tdc"><div>IX</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Aquæ solis</i></td> - <td style="padding-left: 2.4em;">Bath</td> - <td class="tdc"><div>VI</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Verlucio</i></td> - <td style="padding-left: 2.4em;">Hedington</td> - <td class="tdc"><div>XX</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Cunetio</i></td> - <td style="padding-left: 2.4em;">Malboro</td> - <td class="tdc"><div>X</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Spinas</i></td> - <td style="padding-left: 2.4em;">Newberry</td> - <td class="tdc"><div>XV</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td style="padding-left: 1.6em;">Vindoma</td> - <td><i>Silchester</i></td> - <td>X.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Caleva Atrebatum</i></td> - <td style="padding-left: 2.4em;">Farnham</td> - <td class="tdc"><div>XV</div></td> - <td><i>toto</i> CIII.</td> - </tr> - </tbody> - </table> - - <p class="noindent">This journey leads us to <em>Calleva</em> another way. Mr. Gale has - observed <em>Trajectus</em> and <em>Abone</em> transposed. The sum total - here likewise is invariably in all copies CIII. when the particulars - amount but to ninety-eight; whence we likewise infer a station is - dropped out, as before, viz. Silchester, with the number X. annexed. - Now it happens that number was not lost, though the station was; but - was erroneously placed to Marlborough, being XX. instead of X. seeing - the distance between the Bath and Marlborough is notoriously too much. - Setting then X. mile to <em>Cunetio</em>, its real distance from our - <em>Verlucio</em>, Hedington; it remains further to correct the number - annexed to <em>Verlucio</em>, XX. for XV. the letter X being easily - corrupted into an V. then we answer the distances on all hands, having - a Roman road accompanying us, and complete the sum total set at top - precisely CIII. and restore the whole to its ancient purity. When we - reflect a little, that, take the matter how we will any other way, the - difficulties are unsurmountable, I am thoroughly satisfied in these - corrections.</p> - - <p>Much rusty old iron is dug up at the quarries by Brunham, probably of - the Romans: it is a mile off Hedington.</p> - - <p>Upon the hedge of the hill which overlooks Hedington, as it bends a - little southward, is another pretty little Roman camp, in an angle of - the hill, of a square form, and as if not finished, or made for but - a small time of abode upon an expedition; for neither <em>vallum</em> - nor ditch of any great strength: it is situate on a very convenient - promontory, or rather <em>peninsula</em> of high ground, the steepness - whereof is a guard to three sides of it; the other has the slender - <em>vallum</em> made chiefly of the surface of the earth thrown up a - little. From the edge of these hills is an indefinite prospect over the - country of the <em>Dobuni</em>, the <em>Belgæ</em>, and <em>Durotriges</em>: - the descent to it, as being on the west side of the hill, is very - steep. I think this place is called Bagdon hill.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Punctuobice.</div> - - <div class="sidenote">TAB. LXIX.</div> - - <p>Under it, to the left, is the Devises: this I take to be the - <em>Punctuobice</em> of Ravennas, which he mentions by parcels thus: - <em>Leucomagus</em>, Bedwin, (<em>Cimetzone</em> for) <em>Cunetione</em> - in the ablative case, Marlborough; <em>Punctuobice</em>, the Devises: - then he begins a new period of cities in Wales, <em>Venta Silurum</em>, - &c. I suppose here is a remnant of the former part of the word - <em>Punctuobice</em> in Poulsholt, a little village hard by; Potern - another, Potern-wood, and the name of the hundred Potern, taken, in - the first times of their division, from such a corrupt appellation - of this place: the last syllable <em>bice</em> subsists in the present - name Devises, vulgarly <em>vies</em>. This town is excellently situated, - about two miles from the bottom of the hills, which keep <span class="pagenum" id="Page_145">145</span>off the - eastern winds, and in a rich soil.<a id="FNanchor_130" href="#Footnote_130" class="fnanchor">[130]</a> Under the hill at Runway is an - excellent spring, which the inhabitants have not yet found means to - convey thither, though it runs but a little way off the town, where - they want water. It is a very large old town, consisting chiefly of - two long parallel streets; the houses for the most part of timber, but - of a very good model: they value themselves for one of the best weekly - markets in England, and for being tenants to the king. It was inclosed - by the Romans with a <em>vallum</em> and ditch, which I presently found - out: they have made a road of the ditch in most parts round the town; - but in several places both that and the <em>vallum</em> are visible - enough, and it took in the castle: this castle was Roman originally, - finely chosen upon a natural fortification, but in after-times made in - a manner impregnable by Roger a bishop of Salisbury; though now it is - ignobly mangled, and every day destroyed by people that care not to - leave a wall standing, though for a fence to their garden. Here are two - churches; the choir of St. Mary’s, of a very old model; the steeple, - choir, and both wings of St. John’s, the same, to which parcels have - since been tacked all round, and new wide windows put in with pointed - arches, instead of the ancient narrow semi-circular ones. Just out of - town is a pretty plain, called the Green, with another handsome church - and steeple, suburbs to the old town. Here William Cadby, a gardener, - dug up his collection of gods, which he carried about for a show: - they were found in a garden, in a cavity inclosed with Roman brick: - the <em>Venus</em> is of an excellent design; and the Vestal Virgin, as - they call it, a fragment of Corinthian brass; it is of very curious - drapery: <em>Vulcan</em> is as lame as if made at a forge: the rest equal - in designing with the <em>lares</em> of the <em>Ostiaques</em>, and not - at all mended in the plate published by Dr. Musgrave: he had several - coins found thereabouts, and a brass Roman key which my lord Winchelsea - bought. Roman antiquities are found here every day. My lord Winchelsea - has one brass <em>Probus</em>; on the reverse, <span class="smcap">Victoria Germ.</span> - with a trophy: and a great fund of such antiquities is to be met with - all around the country. At Calne incredible numbers of Roman coin dug - up; so at Studley, in the way to Bath, once a seat of the Saxon kings: - I have seen and bought some of these: my lord Winchelsea has many found - there.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mt4" id="i_144"> - <div class="plateno"><i>69</i></div> - <div><b><span class="smcap">Pvnctvobice.</span></b><br> - <i class="small">July 17. 1723.</i></div> - <img src="images/i_144.jpg" alt=""> - </figure> - - <p>From hence towards Trubridge is Steeple-Aston, upon the bottom of the - downs of Salisbury plain: it is a most excellent church and tower of - stone, and had a famous spire of lead upon it, but twice thrown down by - thunder and tempest, which absolutely discouraged the inhabitants from - setting it up again.</p> - - <p>Return we to the Roman Bath road, which we left at Hedington; whence - it goes much as the common road to Bath, and all along upon the south - division of Chipenham hundred: I could discern its bank now and then - upon the road, though much worn away and defaced in defect of necessary - repairs: it passes the Avon at Lacock, where has been a great religious - house, so by a chapel south of Haselbury: then it descends a hill - for two miles together, till it meets, over-against Bathford, the - Foss-way, which comes in a strait line hither through Cirencester, - from <em>Benonis</em> or High-cross in Warwickshire, where I left it - last year: then our road goes round the crook of the river by Walcot - to the Bath. This turn it is that swells the distance between Bath - and <em>Verlucio</em> to XX. Roman miles, as we before corrected it. - The Wansdike runs still not far off this road, but a little <span class="pagenum" id="Page_146">146</span>north of - it through Spy park; so by Ditchbridge, which has its name from it; - then to the Shire stones, at the division between Gloucestershire, - Wilts, and Somerset. As to the nature of the soil, when we have left - the chalky downs at Hedington, it is intirely sand to the river Avon, - whence the name of Sandy lanes: from thence to the Bath it is rocky. - There is a vast descent from the Downs quite to Bath, and every great - ridge is very steep westward.</p> - - <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Aquæ Solis.</span></div> - - <p>The Bath is a place so celebrated, and so well known, that I need say - but little upon it; nor can much be expected from the small time I - rested here:<span class="sidenote">TAB. LXX. LXXI.</span> its history and antiquities have been copiously handled - by several gentlemen of our own faculty. It is indeed a spot of ground - which we Britons may esteem as a particular boon of Nature: it lies - in a great valley surrounded with an amphitheatrical view of hills; - and its situation on the west side of the island does not a little - contribute to its pleasures; for such is ever less subject to violent - and enormous alterations of the air by winds and tempest, heat and - cold: but the Romans were prudently induced to make a station here, by - the admirable hot springs, so wonderful in themselves, and so justly - regarded. The walls round the city are for the most part intire, and - perhaps the old Roman work, except the upper part, which seems repaired - with the ruins of Roman buildings; for the lewis holes are still left - in many of the stones, and, to the shame of the repairers, many Roman - inscriptions: some sawn across, to fit the size of the place, are - still to be seen, some with the letters towards the city, others on - the outside: most of those mentioned in Mr. Camden and other authors - are still left; but the legend more obscure. The level of the city - is risen to the top of the first walls, through the negligence of - the magistracy, in this and all other great towns, who suffer idle - servants to throw all manner of dirt and ashes into the streets: these - walls inclose but a small compass, of a pentagonal form: four gates - on four sides, and a postern on the other: from the south-west angle - has been an additional wall and ditch carried out to the river; by - which short work the approach of an enemy on two sides is cut off, - unless they pass the river. The small compass of the city has made - the inhabitants croud up the streets to an unseemly and inconvenient - narrowness: it is handsomely built, mostly of new stone, which is - very white and good; a disgrace to the architects they have there. - The cathedral is a beautiful pile, though small; the roof of stone - well wrought; much imagery in front, but of a sorry taste. Here they - suppose (with probability) stood the Roman temple of Minerva, patroness - of the Baths.<a id="FNanchor_131" href="#Footnote_131" class="fnanchor">[131]</a> Before it was a handsome square <em>area</em>, but - lately deformed with houses encroaching: on the south side are the - justly-renowned hot springs, collected into a square <em>area</em> called - the King’s Bath. The corporation has lately erected a pretty handsome - building before it, called the Drinking-room, for the company to meet - in that drink the waters drawn hither by a marble pump from the bottom - of the springs, where it is near boiling hot. This water is admirably - grateful to the stomach, striking the roof of the mouth with a fine - sulphureous and steely <em>gas</em>, like that of the German Spa or - Pyrmont: though you drink off a large pint glass, yet it is so far - from creating a heaviness, or <em>nausea</em>, that you find yourself - brisker immediately, by its agreeable sensation on the membranes of the - stomach: at first it operates <span class="pagenum" id="Page_147">147</span>by stool, and especially urine: it - is of most sovereign virtue to strengthen the bowels, to restore their - lost tone through intemperance or inactivity, and renews the vital - fire by its adventitious heat and congenial principles. Hither let the - hypochondriac student repair, and drink at the Muses’ spring: no doubt - the advantages obtained here in abdominal obstructions must be very - great. The King’s Bath is an oblong square; the walls full of niches, - perhaps the Roman work: there are twelve on the north side, eight on - the east and west; about four larger arches on the south: at every - corner are the steps to descend into it, and a parapet or balustrade - with a walk round it: in the middle is set an aukward timber-work, like - a cross, adorned with crutches, the trophies of its wonderful cures: - around that emerge the boiling springs very plentifully: upon the south - wall is the fanciful image of king Bladud, with a silly account of his - finding out these springs, more reasonably attributed to the Romans: - they no doubt separated them first from common springs, and fenced them - in with an eternal wall. The people have a notion, and probable enough, - of subterraneal canals of their making, to carry off the other waters, - lest they should mix and spoil the heat of these. It is remarkable - that at the cleansing of the springs, when they set down a new pump, - they constantly find great quantities of hazle-nuts, as in many other - places among subterraneous timber. These I doubt not to be the remains - of the famous and universal deluge, which the Hebrew historian tells - us was in autumn, Providence by that means securing the revival of the - vegetable world. In this bath the people stand up to the chin, men and - women, and stew, as we may properly call it; for the most part, in the - way of gallantry, and as at a collation. I should judge the method used - at Buxton preferable, where the sexes go in separately and privately, - where they have liberty to swim about and stir the limbs, and exercise - the lungs; whence the whole body will better receive the full force and - benefit of the warmth: and this will more effectually put the humours - in motion, that should be exterminated at the opened pores: this - exercise of the solids sets the glands to work, and every secretion - is promoted. Many are the diseases and calamities which here find a - happy period, when judiciously applied, which, as a traveller, I need - not discourse upon. This brings innumerable people to the salutiferous - streams; especially in the summer time, which likewise seems an error - owing to custom and fashion; for I doubt not they are equally, if - not more beneficial, both internally and externally, in winter than - summer. The carrying the water to distant places to drink, seems only a - splendid fallacy.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_146_1"> - <div class="plateno"><i>70</i></div> - <div><b><span class="smcap">Aqvæ Solis</span></b><br> - <i>Iuly 1723</i></div> - <img src="images/i_146_1.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>Parker Sculp<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span></i></div> - <div><a href="#t_146">See transcription</a></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb3" id="i_146_2"> - <div class="plateno"><i>71</i></div> - <div><b>Aquæ Solis Iuly 21. 1723. <i>From the top of the Southern hill.</i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_146_2.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div> - <figcaption class="small">Cl. Richardo Mead M.D. <i>tab. d.d. W<sup>s</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.4em;">.</span> Stukeley</i>.</figcaption> - </figure> - - <p>I observe the whole country hereabouts is a rock of good lime-stone, - which is the <em>minera</em> of the water’s heat and virtue: but how that - comes to be calcined; by what refined chymistry of Nature sulphur and - steel are mixed with it; by what means it acquires and conserves with - so much constancy this equable and mighty <em>focus</em>, together with - the reason of fountains in general; I profess, in my sentiments, is one - of the great <em>arcana</em> in philosophy hitherto inscrutable.</p> - - <p>Behind the southern wall of the King’s Bath is a lesser square, called - the Queen’s Bath, with a tabernacle of four pillars in the midst: this - is of more temperate warmth, as deriving its water at second-hand from - the other. There are likewise pumps and pumping-rooms, for pouring hot - streams on any part of the body; which in many cases is very useful, - to dissolve sizy concretions about the joints and the like, and - recovers the natural elasticity in the relaxed fibres of the solids. - The <em>area</em> before this bath and front of the cathedral, is in - the centre of the <em>pentagon</em>, upon which the city is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_148">148</span> formed. - Why the Romans made it of this unusual figure, I cannot tell: nothing - appears from the manner of the ground and situation; but I observe - the same of Aix in France. One would be apt to suspect they had a - regard to the sacred symbol and mystical character of medicine, which - in ancient times was thought of no inconsiderable virtue: this is a - pentagonal figure, formed from a triple triangle, called by the name - of <em>Hygeia</em>, because to be resolved into the Greek letters that - compose the word. The Pythagoreans used it among their disciples as a - mystical symbol, denoting health; and the cabalistic Jews and Arabians - had the same fancy: it is the <em>pentalpha</em>, or <em>pentagrammon</em>, - among the Egyptians; the mark of prosperity. Antiochus Soter, going - to fight against the Galatians, was advised in a dream to bear this - sign upon his banner; whence he obtained a signal victory. This would - make one believe a physician had a hand in projecting this city. Dr. - Musgrave thinks it was Scribonius, who accompanied Claudius hither.</p> - - <p>In the south-west part of the town are two other baths, not to be - disregarded: for in any other place who would not purchase them at - the greatest price? The Hot bath is a small parallelogram, not much - inferior in heat to the King’s bath: it has a stone tabernacle of four - pillars in the middle. The Cross bath, near it, is triangular, and had - a cross in the middle; which now is a very handsome work, in marble, - of three Corinthian pillars, erected by the lord Milford, in memory - of king James the Second’s queen conceiving, as it is said, after the - use thereof. Hard by is an hospital built and endowed by a bishop of - this see. The water in these two places rises near to the level of the - streets, because I suppose in this part of the town the earth is not - so much heightened. On the south side of the cathedral are some parts - of the abbey left, and the gate-house belonging to it. Not long ago, - by money contributed, they made a cold bath, at a spring beyond the - bridge, that nothing of this sort might be wanting for the benefit of - the infirm.</p> - - <p>Since Mr. Camden’s time two inscriptions have been set in the eastern - wall of the cathedral, fronting the walks: but this is as imprudently - done as those in the city-walls; for, besides the rain and weather, - they are exposed to the boys, who throw stones at them: one is that of - Julius Vitalis, published by Dr. Musgrave; the other, which he calls a - basso relievo of Geta, seems to have been the top of a monumental stone - over some common horseman. <span class="sidenote">TAB. XLIX.</span>Harrison’s house, they say, is built against - some basso’s and inscriptions. In the <a href="#i_148_1">49th plate</a> I have given the whole - <span class="sidenote">TAB. XLI. 2d Vol.</span>stone and inscription, now in the wall near the north gate.</p> - - <p>At Walcot has been a camp, and many Roman antiquities are frequently - found. Lord Winchelsea has an urn, a <em>patera</em>, and other things, - found in a stone coffin, wherein was a child’s body, half a mile off - the Bath.</p> - - <p>Riding upon Lansdown, I saw the monument, lately erected by lord - Lansdown, in memory of his grandfather Bevil Granvile, slain here in - a battle with the parliament forces. Hence, it being a north-west - precipice, is a prospect of Bristol, the Severn, &c. This road seems - to be the Ricning-street, called Langridge, going to the passage over - the Severn, the ancient <em>Trajectus</em> and so along the east side - of the Severn, and into Yorkshire. The ground hereabouts is very red, - covering a solid rock of stone, which lies in thin layers parallel to - the horizon, with as much exactness as if hewn for courses in a wall: - this stone is full of little shells; and of this sort is the monument - of Julius Vitalis: between the <em>strata</em> are crystallizations or - fluors of petrifying juices: all the stone in this country abounds - with curious fossils. As you walk along a new paved road, it is - very common<span class="pagenum" id="Page_149">149</span> to find very great <i lang="la">cornua ammonis</i>, two foot - diameter, laid in among the rest; and, though formed with such - admirable curiosity, yet the country people walk carelessly over them, - as I observed, whilst a horse will startle at so unusual an appearance: - the first I saw in the Foss road, going up the hill south of Bath, I - took for the image of the Sun, which I remembered to have seen prints - of, as it was in <i lang="la">basso relievo</i> in the city-walls, with his hair - flowing round like rays; and this was well enough represented in a - stone that had been worn a little: but I was soon undeceived, when I - found great numbers of the same sort further on.<a id="FNanchor_132" href="#Footnote_132" class="fnanchor">[132]</a></p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp68 mb4" id="i_148_1"> - <div class="plateno"><i>49</i></div> - <div><b><span class="smcap">Roman Inscriptions</span></b><br> - <i>Honorabili Johĩ Clerke Baroni Scaccar. in Scotia tab. d.d. W<sup>s</sup>. Stukeley.</i></div> - <img src="images/i_148_1.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley f.a.f 1723</i></div> - <div><a href="#t_148a">See transcription</a></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp64 mb4" id="i_148_2"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>41·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <div><b><i>At Bathe.</i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_148_2.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>I. Harris fecit.</i></div> - <div><a href="#t_148b">See transcription</a></div> - </figure> - - <p class="clear"><span class="sidenote"><i>The</i> <span class="smcap">Weddings</span>. Br. <i>Temple</i>.</span> - From the Bath I went to visit the famous Celtic temple called the - Weddings, in company with John Strachey, esq; who lives near there, - a person well versed in natural history and antiquities, and fellow - of the Royal Society. I shall describe this memorable curiosity upon - another occasion. In the way hither, about Twyfordton, I found a - <span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Marsbury</span> <i>field</i>.</span>fallow field with but little quantity of earth upon the rock: this - was as full of fossil shells as possible, let into a softish stone, - which had preserved their very natural colour of blue and white - as perfectly as at first. Near Stanton Drue, in a <em>trivium</em>, - is an old elm-tree made infamous for the bloody trophies of judge - Jeffrys’s barbarity, in the duke of Monmouth’s rebellion; for all its - broad-spreading arms were covered over with heads and limbs of the - unfortunate countrymen. In Chu parish is <span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Bowditch</span> <i>camp</i>.</span>Bowditch, a large camp on a - hill trebly fortified, whence you may behold the isles of Flatholm - and Steepholm in the sea. I suppose the word means the circular form - of the place. Here is a petrifying spring. This country abounds with - coal-pits: the slates that lie upon it, and have not received their due - quantity of sulphur, so as to make perfect coal, are most curiously - marked with impressions of plants, capillary ones especially, and more - particularly those of fern; all which grew in exceeding plenty in this - country, and gave their forms to this soft matter at the Deluge. This - is indeed a rock, and full of springs, very bad road for travelling, - short and steep valleys, narrow lanes, intricate, dark and hard: so - no wonder <em>harts-tongue</em>, <em>liver-wort</em>, <em>maiden-hair</em>, - <em>navel-wort</em>, and the like moist plants, thrive here. The ground - in these valleys is very rich: much wood grows upon it; though in some - roads you ride upon the superfice of a rock lying flat in great slabs, - as if artificially placed with good joints. Many wood-plants grow about - here, such as <em>wood-sorrel</em>, <em>strawberries</em>, <em>tutsan</em> or - <em>park-leaves</em>, &c. The neatness of the houses even of the poorer - sort of people is remarkable, being generally whited over, and with - pretty little gardens, which in pure and unartful nature is a necessary - adjunct in the happiness of life.</p> - - <div class="sidenote"><i>Camps.</i></div> - - <p>There is a camp overlooks Stanton Drue, called Mizknoll; another at - Elm, two miles west from Frome: in 1691 a pot of Roman coin found - there, most of Constantine junior: it is upon the end of a precipice, - and severed from the rest of the hill by a <em>vallum</em> on one side - only: south of it runs a rivulet. Masbury castle upon Mendip hills, - half a mile from the Foss, a mile north of Shipton-Mallet, of a round - form, 150 paces diameter: the two entrances opposite: the environing - ditch on one end laps over with a semi-lunar turn, rendering the - passage to it oblique. Hereabouts are many camps, whose ditches are - hewn out of the solid rock: that above Bristol has four trenches, - as many <em>vallums</em>, and but one entrance: one would think it - impregnable to any thing but hunger. A camp cut out of the rock at - Churchill with a single trench. There is a cave equal to that of - Ochey-hole at Dolebury. These are from information of Mr. Strachey.</p> - - <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_150">150</span></p> - - <p>In this county of Somersetshire are three remarkable hills, that make - an exact triangle twelve mile each side, much talked of by the country - people; Camalet castle, Glassenbury torr, and Montacute. They have a - notion that king Arthur obtained from some saint, that no serpent or - venomous creature should ever be found in this compass, though frequent - all around it. I shall rehearse to your lordship what occurred to me - at the places. All this country, though to the eye very pleasant with - woods and prospects yet is very disagreeable to travel, for the reasons - I just mentioned.</p> - - <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Colomeæ.</span></div> - - <p>Camalet is a noted place, situate on the highest ground in this - county, on the edge of Dorsetshire. <span class="sidenote">TAB. XLIII.</span>The country people are ignorant - of this name, which has generally obtained among the learned: they - call it Cadbury castle, from the village of North-Cadbury, in which - it is: this caution is useful to those that go to enquire for it. - Hereabouts rise the rivers of Somersetshire, which run into the - Severn sea westward; and that in Dorset, which goes eastward, through - Sturminster, into the southern ocean. It is a noble fortification of - the Romans, placed on the north end of a ridge of hills separated from - the rest by nature; and for the most part solid rock, very steep and - high: there are three or four ditches quite round, sometimes more: the - <em>area</em> within is twenty acres at least, rising in the middle: - its figure is squarish, but conforms to the shape of the hill. There - is a higher angle of ground within, ditched about, where they say was - king Arthur’s palace: it was probably the <em>prætorium</em> and might - be king Arthur’s too. who lived in this place: the country people - refer all stories to him. The whole has been ploughed over since the - memory of man, and much stone has been taken from the surface, which - has altered it. The rampart is large and high, made chiefly of great - stones covered with earth, and perhaps, in some parts where it was - necessary, laid with mortar: here is only one entrance from the east. - It is not unlikely there were buildings erected in the later British - times, being of so great strength, and a perfect watch-tower, surveying - the country round to an incredible distance. The prospect is woody, - and very pleasant; here and there little hills, lofty and steep, - peeping up with their naked heads: you reach all the Mendip hills and - Black-down in Devonshire. In this camp they find many pebble-stones - exactly round, half a peck at a time; whereas there are none such in - the country: they suppose them stones to sling withal, fetched from - the sea, or perhaps shot in cross-bows. Roman coin in great plenty - has been found here, and all the country round: I saw vast numbers - of Antoninus and Faustina, about that time and after. The entrance - here is guarded with six or seven ditches: on the north side, in the - fourth ditch, is a never-failing spring, called King Arthur’s well: - over it they have dug up square stones, door-jambs with hinges, and - say there are subterraneous vaults thereabouts. Selden, in his notes - on <em>Polyolbion</em>, writes it was full of ruins and reliques of old - buildings. At top they told me many pavements, and arches have been dug - up, hand-grindstones, and other domestic or camp utensils. They say - there is a road across the fields, that bears very rank corn, called - King Arthur’s Hunting-causeway.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_150"> - <div class="plateno"><i>43</i></div> - <div><b><i>Prospect From S<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span> Roc’s hill Sept. 15. 1723.</i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_150.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div> - <figcaption><i>Prospect of Camalet Castle.</i> <i>15. Aug. 1723.</i></figcaption> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp68 mb4" id="i_151"> - <div class="plateno"><i>33</i></div> - <div><b><i>Ichnography of the Abby of Glasenbury. 17. Aug. 1723.</i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_151.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="small"><b><i>The Street</i></b></div> - <div class="attl"><i>I. V<sup>dr</sup>. Gucht Scul.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - </figure> - - <p class="clear"><span class="sidenote smcap">Cadbury.</span>The church and tower of Cadbury is neat and small, built of stone. - In this place they call walnuts <em>Welsh-nuts</em>. To the southward, - on the opposite hill, corpses have been dug up: there was lately an - urn full of Roman money found at Wincaunton. A little above Sutton, - toward Beacon-Ash, in inclosing ground, half a peck of the same coin - was found; I saw some of Tetricus. Roman <em>pateras</em>, a knife, and - other antiquities, taken up thereabouts, sent to madam Thyns, now in - lord Winchelsea’s custody.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_151">151</span> Many are the British stories told of - Camalet, of the knights of king Arthur’s round table, of the solemn - justings and tournaments there, &c. It seems, when the castle for - its security was turned into a city, this was the <em>Colomeæ</em> of - Ravennas, (as Mr. Baxter has corrected it) in the later times of the - Romans; unless Quincamel, not far off, can better put in its claim, to - which this might be the garrison. At Long-Leat, in my lord Weymouth’s - library, is a piece of lead weighing fifty pound, one foot nine inches - long, two inches thick, three and an half broad, found in the lord - Fitzharding’s grounds near Bruton in Somersetshire, and was discovered - by digging a hole to set a gate-post in: upon it this memorable - inscription, which I suppose was some trophy; communicated by lord - Winchelsea.</p> - - <div class="center bbox large gesperrt clear" style="width: 16em;">IMP DVOR AVG ANTONINI<br> - ET VERI ARMENIACORVM.</div> - - <p>Hence let us go, as in pilgrimage, to the famous Glassenbury; for it is - a very rough and disagreeable road, over rocks and the heads of rivers: - but that is much alleviated by the many natural curiosities such places - afford: several times I saw <em>gilded ivy</em> grow in the hedges, as - yellow as gold; great plenty of <em>viorna</em>, <em>purging-thorn</em>, - <em>prim-print</em>, and the banks every where over-grown with - <em>fox-gloves</em>. Kyneton village, for half a mile together, is paved - naturally with one smooth broad rock, the whole breadth of the road; - so that it looks like ice. Great quarries of stone hereabouts, of the - slab kind: all the uppermost layers are incredibly full of sea-shells, - and would make admirable pannels to wainscot a <em>virtuoso’s</em> - summer-house, grotto, or the like, and of any dimensions; not inferior, - in true value, to those brought from Italy, but too cheap. I frequently - took notice that the course of the vein of the stone quarry runs - north-east and south-west.</p> - - <p>Crossing the Foss road at Lyteford you enter upon a flat moorish - country, full of artificial cuts and drains, like the levels in - Lincolnshire. Not far before I came to Glassenbury, I observed a great - bank, crossing the road, which seemed to be a Roman road. I guess there - was a Roman road went from Bristol, through Axbridge, Bridgewater, - Taunton, parallel to the Foss, and nearer the ocean. I have been told, - between the two last places it is very fair, and paved with stone. With - much labour I climbed to the top of the Torr, hanging over the town of - <span class="sidenote smcap">Glasenbury Torr</span>Glassenbury. This hill, with that called Werial hill, is a long rib of - elevated ground in the midst of this vast level or isle of <span class="sidenote">TAB. XXXVII.</span>Avalon. I - observed, in its several breaks or gradations, a steepness westward. - Here upon the narrow crest of the Torr, which is much the highest, the - abbots built a church to St. Michael, of good square stone: the tower - is left, though ruinous; and it is an excellent sea-mark: it probably - cost more to carry the stone up to this <em>apex</em>, than to erect the - building. There is a spring half way up it. It is certainly higher than - any ground within ten miles of the place. They say here is a passage - hence under ground to the abbey.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Glasenbury.</div> - - <p>This great monastery in superstitious times held the first place for - fame and sanctity. Here the christian doctrine first found admittance - in Britain, or early tradition has amused us: it is not unlikely the - fact may be true, <span class="sidenote">TAB. XXXIII.</span>though the persons and circumstances invented: - however, it is not to be doubted but king Ina built their church; as - one of the most ancient, so the most wealthy and magnificent, loaded - with revenues by the Saxon<span class="pagenum" id="Page_152">152</span> kings, and perhaps the British before - them. Truly the abbot lived in no less state than the royal donors: no - wonder, when his revenue was equivalent to 40,000l. per ann. he could - from the Torr see a vast tract of this rich land his own demesnes, - and seven parks well stored with deer belonging to the monastery. It - is walled round and embattled like a town, a mile in compass: as yet - there are magnificent ruins; but within a <em>lustrum</em> of years, a - presbyterian tenant has made more barbarous havock there, than has - been since the Dissolution; for every week a pillar, a buttress, a - window-jamb, or an angle of fine hewn stone, is sold to the best - bidder: whilst I was there they were excoriating St. Joseph’s chapel - for that purpose, and the squared stones were laid up by lots in the - abbot’s kitchen: the rest goes to paving yards and stalls for cattle, - or the highway. I observed frequent instances of the townsmen being - generally afraid to make such purchase, as thinking an unlucky fate - attends the family where these materials are used; and they told me - many stories and particular instances of it: others, that are but half - religious, will venture to build stables and out-houses therewith, but - by no means any part of the dwelling-house. The abbot’s lodging was a - fine stone building, but could not content the tenant just mentioned, - who pulled it down two or three years ago, and built a new house out of - it; aukwardly setting up the arms and cognisances of the great Saxon - kings and princes, founders, and of the abbots, over his own doors and - windows: <span class="sidenote">TAB. XXXVII.</span>my friend Mr. Strachey had taken a drawing of it very luckily - just before, <span class="sidenote">TAB. XXXIV.</span>which I have put in its proper place, <a href="#i_152_1">plate 37</a>. Nothing - is reserved intire but the kitchen, a judicious piece of architecture: - it is formed from an octagon included in a square; four fire-places - fill the four angles, having chimneys over them: in the flat part of - the roof, between these, rises the arched octagonal pyramid, crowned - with a double lantern, one within another: there are eight curved ribs - within, which support this vault, and eight funnels for letting out - the steam through windows; within which, in a lesser pyramid, hung the - bell to call the poor people to the adjacent almery, whose ruins are - on the north side of the kitchen: the stones of the pyramid are all - cut slaunting with the same bevil to throw off the rain. They have a - report in the town, that king Henry VIII. quarrelling with the abbot, - threatened to fire his kitchen: to which he returned answer, That he - would build such a one as all the timber in his forest should not burn.</p> - - <div class="sidenote">TAB. XXXVI.</div> - - <p>The church was large and magnificent: the walls of the choir are - standing, twenty-five fathom long, twelve broad: there is one jamb - at the east end of the high altar left: hereabouts were buried king - Edgar, and many of the Saxon kings, whose noble ashes ought to have - protected the whole: two pillars of the great middle tower are left - next the choir: on the north side is St. Mary’s chapel, as they told - me; the roof beat down by violence, and a sorry wooden one in its - place, thatched with stubble to make it serve as a stable: the manger - lies upon the altar and niche where they put the holy water. St. - Edgar’s chapel is opposite to it; not much left of it, beside the - foundations: the north and south transepts are quite demolished. They - say king Arthur was buried under the great tower. A small part of the - south side wall of the body of the church remains, which made one side - of the cloysters; and the arch at the west end, leading to the chapel - of Joseph of Arimathea, the patron and asserted founder of the whole. - This they say was the first christian church in Britain. The present - work is about the third building upon the same spot:<span class="sidenote">TAB. XXXV.</span> it is forty-four - paces long, thirty-six wide without: it is so intire, that we could - well enough draw<span class="pagenum" id="Page_153">153</span> the whole structure, as in <a href="#i_152_4">plate 35</a>. the roof - is chiefly wanting: two little turrets are at the corners of the west - end, and two more at the interval of four windows from thence, which - seem to indicate the space of ground the first chapel was built on: the - rest between it and the church was a sort of anti-chapel. Underneath - was a vault now full of water, the floor of the chapel being beaten - down into it: it was wrought with great stones. Here was a capacious - receptacle of the dead: they have taken up many leaden coffins, and - melted them into cisterns. Hence is the subterraneous arched passage - to the Torr, according to their notion. The roof of the chapel was - finely arched with rib-work of stone: the sides of the walls are full - of small pillars of Sussex marble, as likewise the whole church; which - was a little way of ornamenting in those days: they are mostly beaten - down: between them the walls are painted with pictures of saints, as - still easily seen. All the walls are overgrown with ivy, which is the - only thing here in a flourishing condition; everything else presenting - a most melancholy, though venerable aspect. On the south side the - cloysters was the great hall. The town’s people bought the stone of<span class="sidenote">TAB. XXXVII.</span> - the vaults underneath to build a sorry market-house, contributing to - the ruin of the sacred fabric, and to their own: what they durst not - have done singly, they perpetrated as a body, hoping vengeance would - slip between so many: nor did they discern the benefit accruing to - the town from the great concourse of strangers purposely to see this - abbey, which is now the greatest trade of it, as formerly its only - support; for it is in a most miserable decaying condition, as wholly - cut off from the great revenues spent among them. There are many - other foundations of the buildings left in the great <em>area</em>, but - in the present hands will soon be rooted up, and the very footsteps - of them effaced, which so many ages had been erecting. Though I am - no encourager of superstitious foppery, yet I think, out of that - vast estate, somewhat might have been left, if only to preserve old - monuments for the benefit of our history. The abbot’s hall I have been - told was curiously wainscoted with oak, and painted with coats of arms - in every pannel. The mortar of these buildings is very good, and great - rocks of the roof of the church lie upon the ground, consisting chiefly - of rubble stone untouched by the fanatical destroyers, who work on the - hewn stone of the outside, till a whole wall falls when undermined a - little. Throughout the town are the tattered remains of doors, windows, - bases, capitals of pillars, &c. brought from the abbey, and put into - every poor cottage.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_152_1"> - <div class="plateno"><i>37</i></div> - <div><b><i>The Prospect of</i> Glasenbury Abby.</b></div> - <img src="images/i_152_1.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div> - <figcaption class="small">A. <i>S<sup>t</sup>. Josephs chappel.</i> B. <i>The Abby Church.</i> C. <i>S<sup>t</sup>. - Marys chappel.</i> D. <i>Edgars chappel.</i> E. <i>The high Alter.</i> F. <i>The Cloysters.</i> - G. <i>The Hall.</i> H. <i>The Abbots kitchin.</i> I. <i>The Abbots Lodging.</i></figcaption> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_152_2"> - <div class="plateno"><i>34</i></div> - <div><b><i>The Orthography Section & Groundplot of the Abbot of Glasenburys Kitchin. Aug. 17. 1723.</i></b></div> - <img class="mt5" src="images/i_152_2.jpg" alt=""> - <figcaption class="left small"><i>Celeberrimo Viro Humfredo Wanleio d.d. W. Stukeley.</i></figcaption> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_152_3"> - <div class="plateno"><i>36</i></div> - <div><b><i>A Prospect of the Ruins of</i> Glasenbury Abby <i>Aug. 17. 1723</i>.</b></div> - <img src="images/i_152_3.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall scul</i>:</div> - <figcaption class="small">A. <i>The Abbots Kitchin.</i> B. <i>His Lodgings.</i> C. <i>S<sup>t</sup> Iosephs Chappel.</i> - D. <i>The Town Church.</i> E. <i>the Abby Church.</i> F. <i>the Tower.</i> G. <i>S<sup>t</sup> Marys Chappel.</i> - H. <i>Edgars Chappel.</i> I. <i>the Choir.</i> K. <i>the Cloysters.</i> L. <i>the Hall.</i> - M. <i>the Monks Lodgings.</i> N. <i>the Almery.</i></figcaption> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_152_4"> - <div class="plateno"><i>35</i></div> - <img src="images/i_152_4.jpg" alt=""> - <div><b><i>The Inside Section of S<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span> Joseph of Arimathea’s Chapel at Glasenbury.<br> - <span class="small">Tho. Tanner D.D. Sacra Tabula.</span></i></b></div> - <div class="attl"><i>G. V<sup>der</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.6em;">.</span> Gucht. Scul.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - </figure> - - <p class="clear mt4">In the town are two churches; the upper a handsome fabric, with a fine - tower of good design, adorned with figures in niches: at the east end - of the church-yard is a curious old tomb inscribed with ancient English - letters, but so worn with trampling on, that I could make little out - of it, except the name of the interred Alleyn. The George inn is an - old stone building, called the Abbot’s inn, where chiefly the pilgrims - were lodged that came strolling hither, and idling their time away for - sanctity: stone and timber are liberally bestowed on it: a coat of arms - of the kings of England, supported by a lion and a bull, over the gate, - and many crosses: the bed I lay in was of large timber, with great - embossed gilt pannels, and seemed to have been the abbot’s.</p> - - <p>When I left this place, I passed through a great gate built across - the road under the abbey wall, with a lesser portal by the side of - it; which I suppose was some boundary of the abbey-lands, and part of - their extravagance; for the abbot’s revenues being inconsumable in - their way of life, they prodigally threw it away in building, as one - method of perpetuating their<span class="pagenum" id="Page_154">154</span> name: another they had which was very - useful, the making great and high causeways, along this moory country, - for facilitating travelling and commerce; the remains of which I saw - here and there, and wished they had been in better repair. I passed by - the side of Werial hill, where grew the famous hawthorn that blossomed - at Christmas; I suppose, an early blooming white-thorn: but that it - so strictly observed Christmas day to an hour, nay a minute, as they - here assert, I believe no more than the vulgar derivation of the hill, - with more of the dregs of monkery. Somerton is an old town, that gives - name to the whole county, once the royal seat of the West-Saxon kings: - the steeple is octangular: probably it was a Roman town. I saw a camp - upon a great copped high hill on the right hand, as I travelled. At - Ilchester town end I fell into the Foss road again.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Ischalis.</div> - - <div class="sidenote">TAB. LXXII.</div> - - <p>This station of the Romans is situate on the south side of the river - Ivel, or Yeovil, the <em>Velox</em> of Ravennas. Pillbridge, a little - lower, seems to retain the name: it is the <em>Uzella</em> of Ptolemy. I - perceived immediately that this place had been originally encompassed - with a wall and ditch, and traced out the manifest <em>vestigia</em> - thereof quite round: it was an oblong square 300 paces in length, 200 - in breadth, standing upon the oblique points of the compass, conform - to the Foss way, which passes through the town exactly from north-east - to south-west: the north-east side of the city lay against the river, - where I saw foundations of the wall here and there, and took up several - Roman bricks in searching for it in the gardens: the ditch on the - north-west side is become a road, called Yard-lane, as going behind - the yards and gardens: then it runs through the friery garden; for the - religious had extended their bounds beyond the city, and turned the - road on the outside: then it goes along the road on the back of Mr. - Lockyer’s garden: it is now visible between the Yeovil road and the - southern angle; then runs through another garden, being for the most - part levelled by the gardener, who showed me the track of it, and had - by times, in digging, taken up remainders of the wall, with many coins, - bricks, tiles, and other antiquities. I bought some coins of him, among - which the brass one of Antoninus Pius depicted in the plate; on the - reverse, Britannia sitting on a rock with a military ensign. Sir Philip - Sydenham has a great quantity of coins found here, and the minister of - the parish gave many to the learned Mr. Coke of Norfolk. This gardener - showed me many square paving bricks in the floor of his house, and told - me he dug up a great brass coin, as big as half a crown, under the - foundation of the wall, which doubtless would have discovered to us - the <em>area</em> of its building. Crossing the Sherburn and Limington - road, we find the ditch again, turning up to the river-side, on the - eastern angle, conformable to the scheme; where it is again inclosed - into gardens and pastures: the occupier of the gardens there informed - me too, that he had frequently dug up the like antiquities, together - with the foundations of the wall. The quickset-hedge that fences in - the garden stands on the edge of the ditch, and observes its turn at - that angle of the city: by the new mill it meets the river. In all the - gardens hereabouts, by the Borough-green, they find foundations of old - houses; and some run across the present streets, now visible above - ground. This ditch, when perfect, admitted the water of the river quite - round. Mr. Lockyer’s house is built upon subterraneous arches. They say - here have been sixteen parish-churches, and foundations are to be found - all the town over; and that the suburbs extended southward, especially - on the Yeovil road, which formerly had a gate: it is not to be doubted - but that there were gates at the passage of all the other streets. They - say the bishop of Bath and Wells has a manuscript<span class="pagenum" id="Page_155">155</span> relating to the - ancient state of this town. They have the same tradition as in many - other places, that the old city was set on fire by matches tied to the - tails of sparrows, let fly from a place called Stannard-cross hill. As - soon as I came into the inn, (the Swan) I saw a great parcel of the - little stones of a tesselated pavement, found but two days before, in a - garden over the way near the river: a croud of people came immediately - out of curiosity to see it, and tore it up: I saw some of the remainder - <em>in situ</em>, about two foot deep, laid in strong mortar upon a hard - gravelled floor: I made the owner melancholy with informing him what - profit he might have got by preserving it, to show to strangers. The - Foss-way retains its name, and makes the principal street: the pavement - thereof, or the original ford across the river, may be seen on the - west side of the bridge, made with great flag stones. Upon the bridge - is an old chapel, called Little St. Mary’s: at the foot of the bridge - within the town is another, called White-chapel; both converted into - dwellings. Foundations of houses, chimney-pieces, and the like, have - been dug up in the meads on the west side the town, and on both sides - the river, with stone coffins and other funeral <em>apparatus</em>. The - head of the mayor’s staff or mace is a piece of great antiquity in cast - brass: there are four niches with four images, two kings, a queen, and - an angel: it seems to have been the crosier of some religious house: - round the bottom is wrote, in two lines, <span class="antiqua">+ JESU DE DRUERJE + NEME - DUNETMJE</span>. In the northern angle beyond the old ditch of the city, - towards the river, have been some bastions and modern fortifications, - of the time of king Charles I.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp64 mb4" id="i_154"> - <div class="plateno"><i>72</i></div> - <div><b>ISCHALIS</b><br><i class="small">17. Aug. 1723.</i></div> - <img src="images/i_154.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>I. V<sup>der</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.6em;">.</span> Gucht Sculp.</i></div> - <div><a href="#t_154">See transcription</a></div> - </figure> - - <p class="clear">Beyond the river is a village adjoining, called North-over, with a - church; at Mrs. Hoddle’s, hard by, I saw a grey-hound bitch, from whose - side a skewer of wood seven inches long had worked itself out from the - stomach: we have some such rare cases in medicinal histories. They talk - of a castle standing where now is the gaol, and that the tide came - formerly up hither, though now it reaches not beyond Langport. West of - this, some time since, they dug up some bones in a leaden case, as big - as a band-box, laid in a hollowed stone; and near it, under a tree, was - a vault of stone, where a body was found lying at full length. Langport - is moted about, as they tell me, and probably was a Roman town. These - were all the remarkables I met with at <em>Ischalis</em>, where I staid - but half a day.</p> - - <div class="sidenote">Foss <i>road</i>.</div> - - <p>Hence I continued my journey along the Foss, which I observed paved - with the original work in many parts: it is composed of the flat - quarry-stones of the country, of a good breadth, laid edgewise, and - so close that it looks like the side of a wall fallen down, and - through the current of so many ages is not worn through: a glorious - and useful piece of industry, and, to our shame, not imitated; for - small reparation from time to time would have preserved it intire, - and where it is so much wanted in a dirty country. As I rode, on my - left hand I saw the pleasant view of Montacute hill, a copped round - eminence incompassed at bottom with a broad verge of wood, so that it - looks like a high-crowned hat with a fringed hat-band: here has been - a castle and chapel at top, and below it a religious house built by - the earl of Moriton in the time of William the Conqueror.<a id="FNanchor_133" href="#Footnote_133" class="fnanchor">[133]</a> Another - hill near it, much of the same figure. Between them and the Foss, - upon <span class="pagenum" id="Page_156">156</span>the same hilly ridge, is a Roman camp called - <span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Hamden-hill.</span> Ro. <i>camp</i>.</span>Hamden hill, with - a double ditch about it; to which leads a vicinal Roman way from the - Foss through Stoke. The Foss is very plain and strait hither, and to - Petherton bridge near South Petherton, once the palace of king Ina:<span class="sidenote">TAB. XLIV.</span> - here was formerly a wooden bridge, but ruinous, where two children were - drowned, as they say; whereupon their parents rebuilt it of stone, and - caused their <em>effigies</em> to be cut upon a stone which lies at the - foot of the bridge. In a field not far off, two years ago a pot full - of Roman coin, to the quantity of six pecks, was dug up. Beyond this - the Foss grows intricate and obscure, from the many collateral roads - made through the badness and want of reparation in the true one; yet - it seems to run through Donington, which stands on a very high hill, - and, when mounted, presents us with a vast scene of Devonshire. I - suppose this Foss went on the east side of Chard, and so by Axminster - and Culliton, to Seaton or <em>Moridunum</em>, where properly it begins; - whence if we measure its noble length to the sea-coast in Lincolnshire, - at Grimsby or Saltfleet, where I imagine it ends, it amounts to 250 - Roman miles in a strait line from north-east to south-west. Your - lordship presented me with an oyster, found a little northward of - Axminster, where the very fish appears petrified with its cartilaginous - concretion to the shell, all in their proper colours.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Chard.</div> - - <p>The street of Chard runs directly east and west, where formerly was - kept a large market on Sundays. Beyond this to Honiton is a very bad - road of stones and sand, over brooks, spring-heads, and barren downs. - From the hill-tops about Stockland I first had sight of the southern - ocean; a most solemn view, a boundless extent of water thrown into a - mighty horizontal curve. Beyond Honiton the scene of travelling mended - apace, and the fine Devonshire prospects entertained the eye in a - manner new and beautiful; for here the hills are very long and broad, - the valleys between proportional, so that the vastly-extended concavity - presented an immense landscape of pastures and hedge-rows distinct, - like a map of an actual survey, and not beyond ken: these are full of - springs, brooks, and villages, copses and gentlemen’s seats; and when - you have passed over one hill, you see the like repeated before you, - with Nature’s usual diversity. They told me of a great kairn, or heap - of stones, on Black down, called Lapper-stones; probably a sepulchral monument.</p> - - <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Isca Dumnoniorum.</span></div> - - <div class="sidenote">TAB. LXXIII.</div> - - <p>Exeter is the famous <i lang="la">Isca Dumnoniorum</i> of the Romans, the last - station this way in Antoninus his Itinerary; <em>pen cair</em> of the - Britons, the capital: it is a large and populous city, built upon - a pleasant eminence on the eastern bank of the river <em>Ex</em>, or - <em>Isca</em> when latinised. I suppose the original word signifies no - more than waters, like the French <em>eaux</em>, a collection of them, - or several rivers, or branches of rivers, running parallel; and that - whether it be wrote <em>Ax</em>, <em>Ex</em>, <em>Ix</em>, <em>Ox</em>, or - <em>Ux</em>; of which many instances all over England. This river is - navigable up to the city, but the tide comes not quite so high. The - walls take in a very great compass, being a parallelogram of 3000 - Roman feet long, 2000 broad; having a gate on every side: it lies - oblique to the cardinal points of the compass, and objects its main - declivity to the south-west. What adds to its wholesomeness and - cleanliness, is that the ground is higher in a ridge along the middle - of its length, declining on both sides: further, on the south-west - and north-west sides it is precipicious: so that, with the river, - the walls, the declivity of ground and ditch without side, it was a - place of very great strength, and well chose for a frontier against - the ancient <em>Corinavii</em>: it was built with a good omen, and has - been ever in a flourishing condition. The walls are in pretty good - <span class="pagenum" id="Page_157">157</span>repair, having many lunettes and towers, and make a walk round the - city, with the advantage and pleasure of seeing the fine country on - the opposite hills, full of wood, rich ground, orchards, villages - and gentlemen’s houses. The beauty of the place consists mainly of - one long street, running the length of the parallelogram, called - High-street, broad and strait: the houses are of a very old, but good - model, spacious, commodious, and not inelegant: this street is full of - shops well furnished, and all sorts of trades look brisk. The people - are industrious and courteous: the fair sex are truly so, as well as - numerous; their complexions, and generally their hair likewise, fair: - they are genteel, disengaged, of easy carriage and good mien. At Mr. - Cole’s the goldsmith I saw an old ground-plot of this city in queen - Elizabeth’s time: there has been since a vast increase of buildings - within and without the city: the situation renders it of necessity - clean, dry and airy. The soil hither from Honiton was rather sandy - than stony, whence it must needs be very healthful; and it is of a - convenient distance from the sea. They drive a great trade here for - woollen manufacture in cloths, serges, stuffs, &c. all along the - water-side innumerable tenters or racks for stretching them. Here is - a good face of learning too; many booksellers’ shops: I saw a printed - catalogue of an auction of books to be sold there. I saw the coloss - head of the empress Julia Domna dug up near Bath, in Dr. Musgrave’s - garden, which his father calls <em>Andromache</em>: the head-dress is - like that of her times, and her bust at Wilton; nor is the manner and - carving despisable: the graver has not done it justice. It is the - noblest relique of British antiquity of this sort that we know: it is - twenty-one inches from the top of the attire to the chin, and belonged - to a statue of twelve foot proportion, set upon some temple or palace - originally. In the same place is the inscription of Camillus published - by him: I saw his library, a very good collection of books, coins and - other antiquarian <em>supellex</em>; likewise a treatise, ready for - publication, of the original gout, which he wrote thirty years ago, - before his other two. The doctor had made this distemper his particular - view through his long practice; and this country remarkably abounds - with patients of that sort, which he attributes in a great measure to - the custom of marling the lands with lime, and the great use of poor, - sweet cyder, especially among the meaner people.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp68 mb4" id="i_156"> - <div class="plateno"><i>73</i></div> - <div><b><span class="smcap">Isca.</span> <i>S. Sidwels</i> <span class="smcap">Dvmnoniorvm</span>.</b><br> - <span class="small">19 Aug. 1723</span></div> - <img class="mt2" src="images/i_156.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>Parker sculp.</i></div> - <div><a href="#t_156">See transcription</a></div> - </figure> - - <p class="clear">In the northern angle of the city, and highest ground, is Rugemont - castle, once the royal residence of the West-Saxon kings, then of - the earls of Cornwall: it is of a squarish figure, not very large, - environed with a high wall and deep ditch: there is a rampire of earth - within, equal in height to the top of the wall at present, and makes - a terrace-walk overlooking the city and country. In the morning, the - air being perfectly serene, and the sun shining, I observed from this - place all the country southward, between the sea and Exeter, covered - with a very thick fog; the west side of the city and country beyond it - very clear. In this place is the assize-house and a chapel. In the wall - of this castle is a narrow cavity quite round, perhaps for conveyance - of a sound from turret to turret. Dr. Holland supposes this to have - been a Roman work originally; and it is not unlikely that it was their - <em>prætorium</em>, or garrison. Beyond the ditch is a pleasant walk of - trees, and a little intrenched hill, called Danes castle.</p> - - <p>The cathedral is a good pile of building: two old towers stand on - the north and south transept of the most ancient part: the organ is - remarkably large; the diapason pipes fifteen inches diameter, and - set against the pillars of the church: the west front of the church - is full of old statues. Many religious foundations in the city are - converted into streets and houses, full<span class="pagenum" id="Page_158">158</span> of numerous families and - thriving inhabitants, instead of lazy monks and nuns. King Edward I. in - the Saxon times founded the monastery of Exeter, anno 868: Athelstan - enlarged it for the Benedictines in 932: Edward Confessor translated - those monks to Westminster, and made this an episcopal see; not Edward - III. as Mr. Camden says. Leofricus a Briton was the first bishop, and - founder of the cathedral: he was chaplain to king Edward the Confessor, - anno 1046: he gave his lands at Bampton in Oxfordshire to this church: - he has a monument in the southern transept. Warewast, the third bishop, - began to build the choir, 13 Henry I. Bishop Brewer created the dean - and prebends in the time of Henry III. Bishop Quivel built the body of - the church to the west end, 13 Edward I. he instituted the sub-dean and - singing-men. Bishop Grandison lengthened the cathedral by two arches, - and is buried in a little chapel in the west end: bishop Lacy began - the chapter-house; bishop Nevil finished it: bishop Courtney built the - north tower, or rather repaired it, and gave that large bell called - <em>Peter</em>: the dean and chapter built the cloysters. St. Mary’s - chapel, at the end of the choir, is now turned into a library: this, - I suppose, is what bishop Leofric built. The bishop’s throne in the - choir is a lofty Gothic work. Here are many monuments of bishops in the cathedral.</p> - - <p>The present deanery, they say, was a nunnery. The monastery of St. - Andrew at Cowic was founded by Thomas Courtney earl of Devon; a cell - to Bec abbey in Normandy: it was dissolved in the time of Edward III. - Roger Holland, I suppose duke of Exeter, lived in it in the time - of Edward VI. St. Nicholas’ priory was a cell to Battle abbey: St. - John’s was of Augustine friers: Polesloe, a mile off, dedicate to St. - Catharine, a nunnery of the Benedictine order: Marsh was a cell to - Plympton: Cleve was a monastery of Black canons; St. James’ priory, - of Cluniac monks: Grey friers, without South-gate, were Franciscans; - Gold-hays, without West-gate, Black friers: the Bear inn was the abbot - of Tavistock’s house; the Blacklion too was a religious house; Lathbier - another, near the new river below Radford mount. Thus had these holy - locusts well nigh devoured the land.</p> - - <p>In Corry lane, over-against St. Paul’s church, is a little old house - called King Athelstan’s, said to have been his palace, built of large - square stones, and circular arches over the doors: it seems indeed to - have been originally a Roman building, though other later works have - been added to the doors and windows: over the door in the street is a - very small niche crouded into the wall, as if it had been converted - into a religious house: in the yard a winding stone stair-case is - added. One arch of South-gate seems to be Roman. No doubt the walls of - the city are upon the Roman foundation for the most part, and great - numbers of antiquities have been found here. In digging behind the - guild-hall in Pancras-lane, they found a great Roman pavement of little - white square stones eight foot deep. A pot of Roman coin of two pecks - was dug up, two years ago, near St. Martin’s church: I saw some of - them in Dr. Musgrave’s possession, of Gordian, Balbinus, Philippus, - Julia Mæsa, Geta, Gallienus, and the like. Mr. Loudham, surgeon in this - city, has many of them among his curious collection of antiquities, - manuscripts, &c. Mr. Reynolds the schoolmaster is a great collector - and preserver of such learned remains. St. Mary Arches church, and St. - Stephen’s Bow, by their names seem to have been built out of Roman temples.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_159_1"> - <div class="plateno"><i>75</i></div> - <div><b>MORIDVNVM Aug. 20 1723.</b></div> - <img src="images/i_159_1.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div> - <figcaption class="small left">A. <i>Seaton.</i> B. <i>Salt pans.</i> C. <i>Watch tower.</i> D. - <i>Portland.</i></figcaption> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_159_2"> - <div class="plateno"><i>74</i></div> - <div><b>Prospect of Exeter 19 Aug. 1723.<br><span class="small">ISCA Dumnoniorum.</span></b></div> - <img src="images/i_159_2.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div> - </figure> - - <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_159">159</span></p> - - <div class="sidenote">TAB. LXXIV.</div> - - <p>The bridge over the <em>Isca</em> is of great length, and has houses on - both sides and both ends; a considerable void space in the middle: - there is a church upon it with a tower-steeple. In the Guild-hall - are the pictures of general Monk, and the princess Henrietta Maria, - born at Bedford-house, a palace in this city, during the civil wars. - The composition of the stone of this country is intirely made of - little black pebbles, incrusted in a sandy matter of a red colour and - mouldering nature.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Moridunum.</div> - - <div class="sidenote">TAB. LXXV.</div> - - <p>Leaving Exeter, my farthest western longitude at present, I steered my - course back again along the sea-side, inwrapped in contemplation with - the poet,</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza" lang="la"> - <div class="i0"><i>Undæ quæ vestris pulsatis littora lymphis,</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Littora quæ dulces auras diffunditis agris!</i> <span class="smcap fright">Virg.</span></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">Nor could I think myself alone, when so much new entertainment was - presented to me every minute. Much rock-samphire grows upon these - cliffs. The Roman road seems to have crossed the Otter at Hertford. At - Woodbury is a camp. I passed by Sidmouth, and came to Seaton, a little - village upon the mouth of the river Ax. This Mr. Camden conjectures - to have been the Roman <em>Moridunum</em>, and with reason: it has been - a great haven and excellent port, of which they still keep up the - memory: the river runs in a large valley, having high ground on each - side: the shore is rocky, high and steep, consisting of the ends of - hills which here run north and south: the ground at bottom under the - rocks is marly; the waves wash it down perpetually, undermining the - <em>strata</em> of stone, which from time to time fall down in great - parcels. At present this haven mouth, which is a good half-mile over, - is filled up with beach, as they call it; that is, coggles, gravel, - sand, shells, and such matter as is thrown up by the roll of the - ocean: so that the river water has but a very narrow passage on the - east side under the cliff. The beach was covered over with <i lang="la">papaver - luteum corniculatum</i>, now in blossom: the people in the isle of - Portland call it <em>squat maw</em>, i. e. bruise herb, and use it in - that case, no doubt with good success, where both intentions are - answered, of dissolving the coagulated blood, and easing pain. On the - west side, near Seaton, upon a little eminence is a modern ruined - square <em>Pharos</em> built of brick; they remember it sixteen foot - high; and two guns lie there. They say there were formerly many great - foundations of houses visible nearer the sea than the present town, but - now swallowed up; and in all likelihood there stood the Roman city. - More inward toward the land, beyond the great bank of beach, is a - marsh which the sea has made, landing itself up when its free flux was - hindered: this is full of salt-pans, into which they take the sea-water - at high tides. When they dig these places they find innumerable keels - and pieces of vessels, with nails, pitch, anchors, &c. six or eight - foot deep, because it was formerly part of the haven: anchors have - been found as high as Axminster, and beyond it, though now there is no - navigation at all: so great a change has Time produced in the face of - Nature, upon these confines of the two great elements always opposing each other.</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry" lang="la"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0"><i>Sic volvenda ætas commutat tempora rerum.</i> <span class="smcap fright">Lucr. V.</span></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">Half a mile off, upon higher ground,<span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Honey-Ditches.</span> <i>a Camp</i>.</span> on the western side is a castle - in a pasture, but formerly tilled, called Honey Ditches: it is moted - about, and perhaps walled; for they dig up much square stone there. The - place is an oblong square, containing about three acres: I guess it to - have been the garrison of the port. Just by the present haven-mouth is - a great and long pier or wall, jutting out into the sea, made of great - rocks piled together to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_160">160</span> the breadth of six yards. They told me it - was built many years ago by one Courd, once a poor sailor, who, being - somewhere in the Mediterranean, was told by a certain Greek, that much - treasure was hid upon Hogsdon hill near here, and that this memorial - was transmitted to him by his ancestors: Courd, upon his return digging - there, luckily found the golden mine, which enriched him prodigiously; - so that at his own expence he built this wall, with an intent to - restore the harbour. The people hereabouts firmly believe the story, - and many have dug in the place with like hopes; and as an argument of - its truth, they say some of his family are still remaining, that live - upon their estate got by him.</p> - - <p>A mile higher on the same western side of the river is Cullyford, where - was the ancient road from London to Exeter passing over at Axbridge, - which is now a stony ford, with two bridges that trathe valley - and the river, once a haven. Here have been many inns and houses, and a - considerable town. They talk of great stone vaults being found; so that - it probably arose from the destruction of <em>Moridunum</em>, as Culliton - adjacent, from it. Further, it was a corporation, and they now keep up - their claim by an annual choice of a mayor, who has a mace too, but I - suppose not of great elegance.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Londinis.</div> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Lyme.</div> - - <div class="sidenote">TAB. LXXVI.</div> - - <p>Lyme lies upon the sea-side, in the cavity between two mountains, the - <em>Londinis</em> of Ravennas according to Mr. Baxter. Here is a bold - stony shore, the ridges of the hills jutting out into the sea; but - broken off continually, and wasted away, by the waves as before: the - ground too is clay and stone. Their method of opposing its violence - is to throw out a wall of huge dry stones, which by time gathers the - beech, and consolidates to a greater breadth. Besides, here is a great - artificial pier, called the Cobb, extended to the length of 1000 foot - with a bow into the ocean, where ships lie secure from the impetuous - surges. Here are two little forts, one with five, another with three - guns. A large sort of sea horse-tail grows plentifully upon these - clayey cliffs; and many little springs issue thereout in the face - of the briny deep, which loosen the earth, and hasten its continual - downfall. I took notice that the declivity of the hills, with the veins - of stone and different <em>strata</em> of earth in these cliffs, is ever - north-west, just as is the appearance of the Isle of Portland hence, - and with the same angle. The town of Lyme has a pretty good appearance. - A small river runs in a rocky <em>alveus</em> through the middle of it - into the sea. Most of their buildings are of a rag-stone, blue, not - very durable. The duke of Monmouth landed at this place just by the - pier with only twelve men: many of his party were executed on the spot - afterwards, their limbs hung up in the town. Before that time the duke - of Tuscany came here on shore in his visit to Britain. This is called Lime-Regis.</p> - - <p>Here entering Dorsetshire, I journeyed along the coast, in view of - the ocean, and Portland isle growing more and more distinct, till - I came to Bridport, a large town upon a little river. Ascending a - high hill, I found myself upon the great downs of chalk like those - at Salisbury, and, much to my surprize, infinitely fuller of Celtic - barrows than your lordship’s celebrated plains. What matters of that - sort I discovered shall be referred to another discourse. A little - north of Bridport I found the great <span class="sidenote smcap">Icening-street.</span>Icening-street of the Romans going - to Dorchester, which I accompanied with no small pleasure. I imagine - it goes a little farther up the country than I had travelled, and - hereabouts may properly be said to begin, probably meeting the Foss - at <em>Moridunum</em>. The road from <em>Moridunum</em> westward through - Exeter I think ought not to be denominated either from the one or the - <span class="pagenum" id="Page_161">161</span>other, because of a different direction, which with reasonable - allowance I esteem essential: but this road we are upon, which is the - parallel and sister to the Foss, from Seaton to Yarmouth in Norfolk, - extends to the like quantity of 250 Roman miles. In this place it is - called the Ridge-way, both as it rises in an artificial ridge, and as - it takes a high ridge all the way between here and Dorchester, having - many valleys on both sides. The composition of the road is wholly - of flints gathered off the lands, or taken from near the surface: - these were laid in a fine bank, and so covered with turf. As I road - along I found it frequently makes great curves to avoid passing over - valleys, and industriously keeps on the highest ground, and commands - the prospect of the country every where: it goes to <span class="sidenote smcap">Aggerdon.</span>Eggardon hill, as - they tell me, north of Bridport; and here I suppose is a camp, whence - the whole hundred is denominated: whether from this camp, or from - this road, it is plain the old Latin word is retained, <em>agger</em>; - therefore <em>aggerdon</em>, as it ought to be wrote, is the hill - intrenched, or the down where the high road runs.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_161_1"> - <div class="plateno"><i>76</i></div> - <img src="images/i_161_1.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="col50"> - <div><b>Prospect of Lyme 21 Aug. 1723.<br><span class="small">LONDINIS.</span></b></div> - </div> - <div class="col50"> - <div class="fleft"> - <ol class="inline left small alpha mt0"> - <li><i>Where the Duke of Monmouth Landed</i></li> - <li><i>Portland</i></li> - <li><i>The Peer.</i></li> - </ol> - </div> - <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div> - </div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp68 mb4" id="i_161_2"> - <div class="plateno"><i>77</i></div> - <div><b><span class="smcap">Dvrnovaria</span><br><i class="small">Aug. 22. 1723</i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_161_2.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_161_3"> - <div class="plateno"><i>78</i></div> - <div><b><i class="small">Aug<sup>st</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.5em;">:</span> 22. 1723</i><br><i>Prospect of Dorchester from the Amphitheater.</i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_161_3.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div> - </figure> - - <p>The Icening-street derives its name not from beginning, but ending, at - the Iceni, <i lang="la">via ad Icenos</i>. They say hereabouts it was cast up - in a night’s time by the devil, referring to a supernatural agent the - effect of Roman wisdom and industry. It enters the city of Dorchester - by the north of Winterburn at West-gate. In divers places they have - mended it where wore out, by a small slip of chalk and flints, with a - shameful and degenerate carelessness; so that we may well pronounce the - Romans worked with shovels, the moderns with tea-spoons: besides, it - is mostly inclosed and obstructed with perpetual gates across it, to - the great hindrance of travellers, to whom public ways ought to be laid - open and free; and the authors of such nusances may well be declared - sacrilegious. An endless fund of Celtic as well as Roman inquiries - hereabouts, and no where less regarded.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Durnovaria.</div> - - <p>Dorchester, the Roman <em>Durnovaria</em>, meaning the passage over - the river, is a good regular town, standing conformable to the four - cardinal points, with the river on its north side: <span class="sidenote">TAB. LXXVII.</span>it had four gates - in the middle of each side, was encompassed with a strong wall and - ditch, if not two; for so it seems, though now levelled into arable, to - which the inhabitants hereabout are extremely prone. On the west side - great part of the old Roman wall is standing, twelve foot thick, made - of rag-stone, laid side by side and obliquely, then covered over with - very strong mortar: the next course generally leans the contrary way: - now and then three horizontal ones for binding, for much flint is used - withal. I saw the foundation of it in a saw-pit laid upon the solid - chalk: it is yet twelve foot high, broke through and battered every - where, as if the sight of it was obnoxious: this is a strong manner of - building, and very expeditious. Much more of this wall remained within - memory. It would surprise one to think why the very ruins of it should - be pulled down, which must be done with great labour, and frequently - a mud wall erected in its place. The foundations appear quite round - the town; but eastward a street is built upon it, and the ditch filled - up: it is still called The Walls; for that way the town is swelled out - into a considerable village, with a church and handsome tower, called - Fordington, corruptly Farington. Here are three churches in the town - beside it. <span class="sidenote">TAB. LXXVIII.</span>On the south and west side, without the walls, a handsome - walk of trees is planted, looking pleasantly into the fields; but the - sort of them being common sycamores, are incommodious by harbouring - flies. The winding of the river on the north spoils the square of the - town that way; and there is an <em>area</em> of a castle, out of the - ruins of which the grey friers built their<span class="pagenum" id="Page_162">162</span> convent: but now all the - works are wholly obliterated, religious and military. The banks of the - river here are steep, for the town stands on high ground. Beyond the - river are meadows and warm sandy lands; on this side, the fine chalky - downs, pleasant for riding, and profitable in excellent grain. The air - must needs be wholesome and pure, the climate warm, and a sufficient - distance from the sea; so that we need not wonder if the Romans were - fond of this place. The level of the old city was much lower than the - present; for antiquities, which are found in great number, always - lie deep. Some farmers were levelling another great barrow; but the - people of Fordington rose in arms and prevented them with a laudable - animosity. All this land is of the prince’s fee. I took notice of a - particularity in the stone they use here: it is fetched from a quarry - southward in the way to Weymouth; a flag-stone, rising in large - dimensions, but not very thick: the superfice of it is curiously and - regularly indented or waved, like a mat made of cables, and that very - regularly: it much resembles the face of the sands upon the sea shore, - just after the tide is gone off: it is very convenient for paving, and - those natural undulations prevent slipperiness, being nevertheless - level enough: they make fences for their grounds with it in many - places, setting them up edgewise in a pretty method. The Roman money - dug up here are called <em>dorn-pennies</em>, or king Dor’s money: the - reverend Mr. Place, living here, showed me a great collection of them. - Much <i lang="la">opus tessellatum</i> has been found. As this town, so Wareham - below from its ford derives its name. In Lincolnshire we call them - still <em>warths</em>.</p> - - <p>From Dorchester many Roman roads disperse themselves, beside the - Icening-street, passing directly over the meadows to Walton: one goes - by the amphitheatre southward to Weymouth; another by Poundbury, - Stretton, to Yeovil and Ischalis; another probably to Wareham.</p> - - <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Poundbury</span> <i>a</i> Ro. <i>Camp</i>.</div> - - <p>Poundbury, I am intirely persuaded, was a camp of Vespasian’s, when - he was busy hereabouts in the conquest of the <em>Belgæ</em>, therefore - ancienter than the adjacent Roman city: the situation, the bulk, and - the manner of it, so much resembling that by Ambsbury, engages me into - that sentiment: it stands half a mile west of Dorchester, upon the - brink of the river, which is very steep, in form square: the rampart - high, but the ditch inconsiderable, except at the angle by the river; - the reason is, because standing on high ground, they dug the earth - clear away before it, and threw it intirely into a <em>vallum</em>; so - that its height and steepness, wherein its strength consists, is the - same as if a regular ditch was made in level ground. The chief entrance - was on the south side: there seems likewise to have been an entrance - next the river, but made with great art; for a narrow path is drawn - all along between the edge of the precipice and the <em>vallum</em>, - so that it was absolutely impossible to force an entry that way: - beside, I observe, beyond the camp, for a long way, a small trench is - cut upon the said edge, which seems designed to prevent the ascent - of cavalry, if they should pass the river: the ground of the camp - rises in the middle, as was usual among the Romans in their choice. - There is a <em>tumulus</em> too, which I imagine is Celtic, and extant - before the camp was made: this levelled a little might serve for the - <em>prætorium</em>. A very good prospect from hence all around. The name - is taken from its inclosure as a pound; for here they call a circle of - stones round a <em>tumulus</em>, a pound.</p> - - <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Maiden Castle.</span> <i>a</i> Ro. <i>Camp</i>.</div> - - <p>The other camp, called Maiden Castle, was undoubtedly the <em>Æsiiva</em> - of the Durnovarian garrison:<a id="FNanchor_134" href="#Footnote_134" class="fnanchor">[134]</a> it is of a vast extent, and - prodigiously strong, <span class="pagenum" id="Page_163">163</span>apparently of much later date than the - foregoing, its manner savouring of inferior times of the empire: - it has every where a double ditch of extraordinary depth, and a - double rampire, in some places treble or more: it takes in the whole - summit of a great hill: within it seems as if two camps, a ditch and - <em>vallum</em> running across, with each its entry of very perplexed - work; several ditches with cross entries lapping over one another, as - we may well express it; especially westward, where their number may be - affirmed half a score. Certainly, for healthful air and prospect, a - most delightful place;</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza" lang="la"> - <div class="i0"><i>Heic Veneris vario florentia serta decore,</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Purpureo campos quæ pingit avena colore.</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Hinc auræ dulces, hinc suavis spiritus agri.</i> <span class="smcap fright">Virg.</span></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">and, for sight of barrows, I believe not to be equalled in the - world; for they reach ten miles. What further remains to be said of - Dorchester, is the noble amphitheatre, of which your lordship first - gave me the hint; therefore most justly are you intitled to the - following description of it.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp68 mb4" id="i_163"> - <div class="plateno"><i>61</i></div> - <div><b>VINDOMA. <i class="small">4 Aug. 1722</i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_163.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley Designavit.</i></div> - <figcaption>Peritura Moenia Stylo renovavit <i>Ger. Vander Gucht</i>.</figcaption> - </figure> - - <h3><i>Of the</i> ROMAN AMPHITHEATRE <i>at</i> Dorchester.</h3> - - <p class="drop-cap">THERE was no kind of civil edifice, or public work, more frequent among - the Romans, in Italy or the conquered provinces, than such as related - to sports and games; for that brave and wise people both judged and - found that method well calculated to bring over the nations to their - own language and customs, being agreeable contrivances that seemed - rather pleasure and delight than compulsion. Such were theatres, - circs, amphitheatres, <em>stadia</em>, and the like. There were three - amphitheatres in the city of Rome; that of Vespasian, the Castrense, - and of Statilius Taurus: and, though we find them not so particularly - taken notice of elsewhere in historians, yet we behold the things - themselves, whose immense bulk and weighty materials have generally so - long out-faced time and weather. We may affirm, there was scarce any - colony or free city, of considerable note, in their extensive empire, - that wanted these places of public pastime; and scarce any province - now, where their footsteps at least are not visible, and many almost - intire, particularly what we are now treating upon, amphitheatres: - yet I believe it will appear a novelty to most people, when we shall - talk of such curious antiquities in Britain. <span class="sidenote">TAB. LXI. XCVII.</span>But since this time - twelve-months, I have seen three, one at Silchester, another at - Richborough castle in Kent, and this at Dorchester in Dorsetshire. I - have been told of one with six tire of seats, three mile off Redruth - in Cornwall. Sir Christopher Wren is the first person that I know of - who gave this hint of inquiry, in discovering this, many years ago, - in his journeys to the isle of Portland, when he began to build St. - Paul’s cathedral. Great pity it is that he did not take an exact - description of it at that time, when in greater perfection, before - the gallows were removed hither by an unlucky humour of the sheriff; - since when the parapet at top is on that side much beaten down, by the - trampling of men and horses at executions; but especially because his - great skill might have done it exact justice, and by means of his pen - it might have shared in the duration of his works. In defect of such - illustration, I hope the reader will accept of my mean endeavours to - preserve so valuable a piece of architecture, which, notwithstanding - the damage above mentioned, and that the <em>area</em> of it has been - ploughed up these many years, will still give a spectator a fine notion - in the structures of this sort abroad, deservedly<span class="pagenum" id="Page_164">164</span> the admiration of - travellers; and will present a person of understanding, the pleasure of - observing the noble and great genius of the Romans in every production - of their hands. Nor does the meanness of its materials debase, but - rather inhance, its value and its art; for, though less costly and - lasting than stone and marble, of which others are generally built, yet - for the same reason less liable to rapine, and the covetous humour of - such as plunder them for other uses: therefore I believe, in the main, - it is as perfect as most abroad, if not so alluring to the eye; whence - we may suppose it has so long escaped common observation, though close - by a great town and road.</p> - - <p>An amphitheatre is properly a double theatre, or two theatres joined - together. A theatre is a semicircle wherein are the seats of the - spectators; the <em>apparatus</em> of the actors, or scenes, filling - up the diameter before it. But if we would be more exact, we shall - observe, it is half as long again as the <em>radius</em>; for they cut - off the fourth part of a circle, then the rest became the form of their - theatres. Now two such as these joined together, throwing away the - scenic part, constituted an amphitheatre; taking its name from circular - vision, and because the seats were continued quite round, the faces of - the people being all directed to the centre of its excentricity: so its - use required, different from that of the theatre, where the company - look all one way toward the stage. But then, as Lipsius takes notice - in discoursing upon this topic, the lines, at the ends where they are - conjoined, must be drawn outward a little, approaching more to strait - lines, than it becomes a true oval, well expressed by Cassiodorus; - “for, (says he) the <em>area</em> includes the figure of an egg, which - affords due space for combatants, and more advantage to spectators to - see every thing by its long curvity or relaxed circle.” These were - not put in practice at Rome till the end of the commonwealth, and - appropriated to the hunting and fighting of wild-beasts, to gladiators - and the like; and at last to sea engagements, represented in gallies - floating upon the water, which they introduced for that purpose. - First of all, they made them <em>pro tempore</em> of timber, being two - theatres, each fixed upon a wonderful <em>axis</em>, and so contrived, - that when they pleased they could turn both together, with all the - people on their seats, and make an amphitheatre; of which Pliny, xxxv. - 15. speaks with a note of astonishment, as it really was. This was - done by C. Curio, one of Cæsar’s party. It is worth while to read the - great naturalist’s descant upon it. This I suppose gave occasion to - the building of regular amphitheatres, of which Cæsar made the first - in the <em>Campus Martius</em>, but of wood, when he was dictator. The - first of stone was erected in Augustus his time, by Statilius Taurus, - in the place of the former, which was the only one till Vespasian, - whose work was the monstrous <em>Colissæum</em>, but finished by his son - Titus. This has afforded materials for many public buildings in Rome, - and still boasts its immense ruins, as one of the greatest prodigies of - the imperial city.</p> - - <p>Vitruvius mentions nothing of amphitheatres; therefore he probably - published his book before that of Taurus was built: as for Cæsar’s, it - belonged not to masonry, being carpenter’s work; in which he was a very - great master, as in every thing else: so that we must form our notions - of these things from the works themselves, and the ruins that time - has spared. The parts of an amphitheatre are these: the <em>arena</em> - or space within, the scene of action; the <em>euripus</em>, or river - that generally encompassed the verge of it; the <em>podium</em>, or - parapet at bottom; the <em>itinera</em>, or <em>viæ</em>, which were the - walks between certain series of seats; the <em>ascensus</em>, steps or - stairs; the <em>pulpita<span class="pagenum" id="Page_165">165</span></em> or <em>tribunalia</em>, a sort of covered - chair of state, where the emperor, his legate, the prætor or chief - magistrate of a city, sat; the <em>cathedræ</em>, where the senators, - foreign ambassadors, and great personages, sat; the <em>gradus</em>, or - common seats; the <em>præcinctiones</em>, which I suppose balustrades; - the <em>aditus</em> or <em>vomitoria</em>, being the passages from the - stairs withinside to the seats, a metaphorical name, from the people - pouring themselves through them with violence; the <em>cunei</em>, which - were the space of seats comprehended between two of those passages, so - called from their wedge-like shape; the <em>porticus</em>, or galleries - within, partly for magnificence, and partly for convenience: all these - particulars are easily apprehended from inspection of schemes and - sections of these works in many authors. Some of them could not, others - need not to be in our work; therefore I shall occasionally enlarge - upon those pertinent to this subject, as they fall in our way in the description.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp75 mb4" id="i_165"> - <div class="plateno"><i>50</i></div> - <div><b><i>The Geometrical Groundplot of the Roman Amphitheatre at Dorchester<br> - <span class="small">Aug. 22. 1723.</span></i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_165.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley design<sup>r</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - </figure> - - <p class="clear"><span class="sidenote">TAB. LXXVII.</span>The amphitheatre at Dorchester is situate on a plain in the open - fields about a quarter of a mile (being just 300 of my paces) or 1500 - foot south-west from the walls of the town, delicately ascending all - the way, close by the Roman road running from thence to Weymouth. The - vulgar call it Maumbury, but have no notion of its purpose, though - it is a common walk for the inhabitants, and the terrace at top is a - noted place of rendezvous, as affording a pleasant circular walk, and - a prospect of the town and wide plain of corn fields all around, much - boasted of by the inhabitants for most excellent grain. Westward of the - town we see the Roman camp called Poundbury, and southward the most - famous one Maiden castle, both before described. More southerly all the - hill-tops, as far as the eye reaches, are covered with an incredible - number of Celtic barrows. It stands upon the very edge of that part of - the fields which declines gently northward, or toward the town, upon a - chalk, and which without doubt at first was perfect down, like that of - Salisbury plain, or the neighbouring downs in the way to Bridport. One - may in fancy imagine the beauty of its prospect, and the pleasantness - of the walk hither upon that fine carpet, when all was in its first - perfection; but at present it is ploughed up to the very skirt of the - amphitheatre, both within and without: <span class="sidenote">TAB. LXXVIII.</span>so foolishly greedy are the - country people of an inch of ground, that they have levelled several - barrows lately in the neighbourhood, which cost more than the spot they - covered will pay in fifty years. This work of ours is raised of solid - chalk upon the level, without any ditch about it. I have endeavoured to - delineate, as exactly as I could by mensuration, the true and original - ground-plot thereof, or architectonic design upon which it is formed, - from what is left by the injuries of age, of the plough, of men and - beasts; and that in its first and genuine scale the Roman foot, which - is about an eleventh part less than ours. The <span class="sidenote">TAB. L.</span><a href="#i_165">plate N<sup>o</sup> 50</a>, represents - the amphitheatre as covered with the <em>subsellia</em>, and as in its - primitive perfection; for we may well suppose age has diminished it on - all dimensions: and in truth it requires a great deal of thought and - judgement to attempt to measure it. It is obvious thence to observe, - in the general, its conformity with other works of this sort abroad, - as far as its different materials will allow; and the great judgement - of the architect in varying his scheme thereto, so as fully to answer - the proposed end. It is to be noted that half this work is above, - and half below the surface of the ground, as<span class="sidenote">TAB. LIII.</span> visible in a section; - so that great part of the matter was dug out of the <em>cavea</em> in - the middle; for it is a solid bed of chalk, and the rest fetched from - elsewhere. I believe the method of building it, was to join solid chalk - cut square like stones, and that mortar made of burnt chalk was run - into the joints; and probably all the outside was neatly<span class="pagenum" id="Page_166">166</span> laid with - scantlings of the same, but with the natural turf on: so that it is not - much inferior in strength to those of stone, though infinitely less - expensive; but for use and convenience there is very little difference; - and as to beauty, as far as relates to the seats, and what was visible - on the inside, our work no doubt was very handsome, and even now is a - very pleasant sight. It is observed of most amphitheatres abroad, that - they are placed without the cities for wholesomness, and upon elevated - ground for benefit of the air, and perflation; a thing much recomended - for theatres in Vitruvius; as that of Bourdeaux, 400 paces without - the city. Besides, this is very artfully set upon the top of a plain, - declining to the north-east; whereby the rays of the sun, falling upon - the ground hereabouts, are thrown off to a distance by reflection, and - the upper end of the amphitheatre, for the major part of the day, has - the sun behind the spectators.</p> - - <p>When you stand in the centre of the entrance, it opens itself with all - the grandeur that can be imagined: the jambs are wore away somewhat, - and the plough encroaches on its verge every year, especially the - cheeks below: never did I see corn growing, which of itself is an - agreeable sight, with so much indignation as in this noble concavity, - where once the <em>gens togata</em>, and majesty of imperial Rome, used - to show itself. The conjugate, or shortest diameter externally, is to - the longest as 4 to 5; that of the <em>area</em> within, as 2 to 3: this - is the same proportion as of the amphitheatre at Lucca, which is 195 - <em>brachia</em> in length, 130 broad: a <em>brachium</em> is about 23½ of - our inches: it is 25 high. In ours therefore the two centres upon the - transdiameter, or longest that form it, are 100 feet distant: - the ends of the oval are struck with a <em>radius</em> of 60 feet set - upon each of those centres. The centres that describe the side-lines - are formed by setting off 85 feet on each side the diameter, from the - centre of excentricity. Thus from these four centres only the whole - is delineated, and that most easily and naturally; whence I suspect - Desgodetz, in laying down his plot of the <em>Coliseum</em>, has without - necessity employed no less than eight centres, which is an operation - of great perplexity: but still we except the circle in the middle, - which so remarkably distinguishes this from all other works, and which - gives so great a beauty to the scheme: this is that artful contrivance - supplying the place of portico’s, stair-cases, <em>vomitoria</em>, and - all the costly work in the grander amphitheatres, for ready conveyance - of the spectators in and out to their proper places: it is described - from the common centre of the whole, and in the ground-plot is a - true circle; but upon the place becomes a walk of eight foot broad, - gradually ascending, from the ends upon the long diameter, to its - highest elevation in the middle upon the short diameter, where it - reaches half-way up the whole series of seats of the spectators, who - marching hence distribute themselves therein from all sides without - hurry and tumult. On the top is a terrace twelve feet broad at least, - beside the parapet outwardly five feet broad, four high. There are - three ways leading up to this; at the upper end of the work, over the - cave, one; and one on each side upon the shortest diameter, going from - the elevated part of the circular walk: horses very conveniently, - several a-breast, may go upon this, and frequently do, ascending by - the ruin of the cave, but not on the outward steep. The parapet is now - three or four foot high, but much ruined on that side next the gallows - since last year, at an execution: not only so, but I saw a mixen heap - laid under it on that side; and some vile fellow had been digging down - part of the amphitheatre to lay among it for compost. There is some - enormity, if one examines this work in mathematical strictness without - proper judgement: because it stands on<span class="pagenum" id="Page_167">167</span> a declivity, some parts - of the out-side are higher than others, not only as to the same side, - but as to the same part on different sides: the plain on which it - stands, declines to the north-east: hence the outer side of the work - is higher there than in other places; therefore in my sections and - ground-plot I endeavour to reduce it to a medium, and the measure which - seems to have been the primary intent of the architect.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_167_1"> - <div class="plateno"><i>52</i></div> - <div><b><i>A view of Dorchester Amphitheatre from the South West.</i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_167_1.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley Del. Aug. 1723.</i></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_167_2"> - <div class="plateno"><i>53</i></div> - <div><b><i>The Side View of Dorchester Amphitheater.</i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_167_2.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_167_3"> - <div class="plateno"><i>51</i></div> - <div><b><i>A View of Dorchester Amphitheatre from the Entrance.</i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_167_3.jpg" alt=""> - </figure> - - <p>The cave, or receptacle of the gladiators, wild beasts, &c. I suppose - to have been at the upper end, under the ascent to the terrace, being - vaults under that part of the body of the work: whether they were of - the same chalk, or timber, or whether they were arched with brick - or stone, or what other matter, I cannot say; but the ruin thereof - seems to be the reason of the present deformity at that end; so that - it is not easy to guess at its original profile. We may observe that - the parapet and terrace go back there, and, taking a new sweep, fall - beyond the line of the outer oval; for two reasons, as I conceive: - 1st, Because by that means there is a greater length obtained for the - ascent to the terrace, which makes it more gradual and easy: 2dly, - Thereby more space is procured for the apartments of the prisoners - under ground. <span class="sidenote">TAB. LIII.</span>By the section lengthwise, it is easily understood that - I suppose a passage quite through, or subterraneous gallery upon that - end of the longest diameter,<span class="sidenote">TAB. XLII. 2d Vol.</span> under the ascent to the terrace, from - the out-side into the <em>area</em>: this must open at the bottom of - the <em>podium</em>, as was practised in other works of like nature, - with a squarish door, as Varro tells us, <em>de re rustica</em>. “The - door (says he) ought to be low and narrow, of that sort which they - call a <em>cochlea</em>, as is wont to be in the cave where the bulls - are shut up for fight.” The entrance to this place might be from - without-side the amphitheatre: here is no want of room for the door - within; for the level of the <em>area</em> was at least twelve feet - lower than the <em>podium</em>, like our pit at the play-houses; and it - is probable there was a descent of the whole level this way, to draw - off the rain into some subterraneous passage: the <em>podium</em> in the - <em>castrensian</em> amphitheatre is monstrously high. Our <em>area</em>, - no doubt, is exceedingly elevated by manuring, ploughing, and ruins: - yet it preserves a dish-like concavity, through innumerable injuries; - for the descent from the entrance is very great, and you go down as - into a pit. I conjecture the middle part of the <em>area</em> is now - ten foot lower than the level of the field: but the field itself, - especially about the entrance, is much lowered by ploughing, because - the end of the circular walk there, which should be even with the - ground, is a good deal above it. The dens and caves of the wild beasts - at the great circ in Rome were only of earth and wood, till Claudius - the emperor built them of marble. This ruin at the upper end is very - considerable; for it has so filled the <em>arena</em> thereabouts, that - the cattle plough up to the very <em>præcinctio</em>. On the out-side is - a large round tumour, a considerable way beyond the exterior verge, - and regular in figure, which certainly has been somewhat appertaining - to the work: I could wish that a careful person had liberty of digging - into it. Moreover, this <em>podium</em> had a parapet of earth, if not - a balustrade, as was usual in others: behind this, upon the lowermost - seat, was the place of the senators and chief persons, who often had - chairs or cushions: this was the best place for seeing and hearing, as - being nearest the <em>arena</em>; whence Juvenal says,</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza" lang="la"> - <div class="i0">—————— <i>generosior & Marcellis,</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Et Catulis Paulique minoribus et Fabiis &</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Omnibus ad podium spectantibus</i>.———</div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">So Suetonius, in <cite>Augusto</cite>, says, the senate made an order, that - the first or lowest seat at public spectacles should be left for them: - probably this was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_168">168</span> broader than any other seat, with a greater space - between the <em>podium</em> and next seat, for more ease. The chair of - state for the <em>prætor</em> was on one side, and probably another - opposite to it for the emperor, or his legate, which was reserved - empty, for state, in their absence; or for the <em>editor</em> of the - shows, who was generally thus distinguished: and it is remarkable - that a little prominence is still left in these very places. These - were set in the middle of the <em>podium</em>, on each side, upon the - shortest diameter, and were covered with canopies like a tabernacle. - This <em>podium</em> had, for greater safety, grates, nets, and lattice - work of iron, or more costly metal, supported by pillars, and the like: - beside, there were rollers of wood or ivory length-wise, which hindered - the beasts from climbing up, by their turning round, as is particularly - described by Calpurnius. And, moreover, in greater amphitheatres, - there was a ditch full of water under it, called <em>euripus</em>, first - introduced by Julius Cæsar. In the early times of these buildings, - the people sat all together promiscuously; but after the emperors, - the places were distinguished according to the degrees of quality, - senators, knights, or common people. The knights seats were next to the - senators, fourteen deep in number; so that <i lang="la">gradus quatuordecim</i> - became a phrase for the equestrian order. We may suppose these two - degrees filled all the seats in our amphitheatre under the circular - walk or ascent. The common people possessed the remainder, or the whole - concavity above the circular walk, taking the best places as they came - first: but the uppermost seats were reserved particularly for the - women; and one reason of their distance was, I suppose, because the - gladiators were naked. And that no routs and confusions should disturb - the order of these solemnities, there were proper officers appointed, - that took care none should presume to sit out of the seats suitable to - his degree.</p> - - <p>I imagine the terrace at top in our work was designed for the men - of arms: for they are by no means to be excluded, seeing one of the - primary intents of these diversions was to inure them, as well as the - people, to blood and murder. Hence, before they went upon any great - expedition, or foreign war, these feasts and butcheries were publicly - celebrated: and in my opinion, the two rising plots, that are squarish - on each side upon the shortest diameter, were for the officers. These - are above the level of the walk, or terrace, and might possibly have a - tent set upon them for that purpose. I call them pavilions: they are - of a handsome turn, and capable each of holding two dozen of people - commodiously: their side-breadth is fifteen foot; their length, i. e. - north and south, twenty: they are somewhat nearer the upper end, not - standing precisely upon the shortest diameter, and four foot above the - level of the terrace. I considered with care that seeming irregularity - of the terrace on both sides the lower end; for it is higher within - side than without, yet so as to produce no ill effect below, either - within or without, but the contrary. I find it is a master-piece of - skill, and am surprised that it has not been more defaced in so long - time. The matter is this: the work standing on a declining plain, this - artifice was necessary to render its appearance regular; for when you - stand in the centre within-side, the whole circuit of the terrace - seems and is really of one level: but on the out-side the verge of - the north-easterly part is sloped off gradually toward the entrance - where the declivity is, conformably with it; whence the whole exterior - contour appears of an equal height too: and this could not otherwise - have been obtained, since within it was necessary to keep a true level, - without regard to the outer plain. As to the seats, which I have - supposed in <a href="#i_165">plate 50</a>, they were contrived to be twice as broad as<span class="pagenum" id="Page_169">169</span> - high: their height was but a small matter more than a foot, and their - breadth not above two feet and a half; half that space being allotted - for the seat of the lowermost, and the other half for the feet of the - uppermost. The declivity of these <em>gradus</em> is justly made within - an angle of thirty degrees, the third part of a quadrant: but this is - more exact at the ends; for in the middle, or towards the shortest - diameter over the elevated part of the circular walk, the upper - <em>series</em> of seats has a somewhat more obtuse angle; the reason - of which is obvious, to overlook the breadth of the circular walk. - This is most plainly seen in the sections, and is done with judgement, - because by that means the upper edge of the amphitheatre is in a right - line with the declivity. As to the disposition of these seats, their - method is as new as curious: it is so contrived, that the circular - walks cut the whole breadth in two equal parts upon the shortest - diameter; therefore an equal number of seats is above and under it: - hence the middle seat at each extremity is in the same level with the - elevated part of the walk. Though these seats in other amphitheatres - abroad were made of stone or marble, yet they were generally covered - with boards, because more wholesome; and that sometimes covered with - cushions for the better sort. Dion Cassius tells us, this piece of - nicety was first brought in by Caligula, who gave cushions to the - senators seats, that they might not sit upon the bare boards, and - <em>Thessalic</em> caps to keep them from the sun. The vulgar had mats - made of reeds. I think we may well infer from hence, that the seats in - our amphitheatre were covered too with plank, if not made wholly of - it. The <em>præcinctiones</em>, or, as Vitruvius sometimes calls them in - Greek, <em>diazomata</em>, which commentators make a difficulty about, - to me seem only balustrades, because he orders them to be as high as - the breadth of the walk along them: beside that upon the <em>podium</em>, - here might possibly be one upon the inner edge of the terrace which - separated between the soldiers and the women.</p> - - <p>The <em>area</em> in the middle was commonly called <em>arena</em>, from - the sand it was strown over with, for the better footing of the - combatants, and to drink up the blood: this again by intervals was - fresh strown, or raked over, to prevent slipperiness; for if, instead - thereof, the pavement had been brick or stone, it would have proved - highly inconvenient. Hence this word became a common appellation - of an amphitheatre, and most of those beyond sea are still called - <em>arena</em>. As for the present name of <em>Maumbury</em>, perhaps it - comes corrupted from the old British word <em>mainge</em>, signifying - <em>scamnum</em>, <em>scabellum</em>, the same as our bench, from the - multitude of seats therein; the remains of which in former times might - very plausibly give occasion to such an appellation. Or is it not - equivalent to the heathen <em>bury</em>, from the memory of these pagan - sports therein celebrated? as our ancestors used to call heathenism by - the general name of <em>maumetry</em>, corrupted from <em>mahometism</em>: - of this my friend Robert Stephens, esq; J. C. first gave me the hint. - Thus in Trevisa’s translation of <em>Polychronicon</em>, XIV. 18. p. 175. - “Julianus had commaunded that crysten knyghtes sholde do sacrefyce - to <em>mawmettes</em>,” meaning heathen idols. Or is it from the - old-fashioned games of <em>mummings</em>, so frequent among us, derived - from <em>Mimus</em> or <em>Momus</em>? The <em>Mimi</em> were frequently - introduced into all shows, at theatres, amphitheatres, circs, &c. Or - perhaps in the same sense it is to be understood as in Oxfordshire - they call land <em>maum</em>, consisting of a mixture of white clay and - chalk, Plot’s hist. p. 240. The <em>area</em> was originally about 140 - feet diameter the shortest way, 220 the longest; wherein it falls not - much short of the compass of the most considerable ones. The famous - amphitheatre at Verona<span class="pagenum" id="Page_170">170</span> but 233, and 136; and the vast <em>Colisæum</em> - at Rome is but 263, 165; but, I believe, as reckoned by a larger - measure, the French foot. That at Perigusium is less than ours, being - 180 one way, 120 the other. I find the amphitheatre at Silchester is of - the same dimension with ours here, and built of the same materials and - form, as far as I could discern, but more ruinous.</p> - - <p>These places, though of absolute necessity open at top, where usually - sheltered from rain in some measure, and from the sun effectually, by - great sail-cloths spread along the top from masts and ropes, which - were managed by the soldiers of the marine affairs, who were more - skilful in such work: a fashion first invented by Q. Catulus when he - was Ædile. The places where these poles were let through the cornices - of the upper order, and rested on corbels, are still visible in the - great amphitheatres. This probably was done in ours by masts and poles - fastened into the ground without-side, and leaning along the outside - bank; which would give them a very advantageous turn in hanging over - the top of the theatre; for the slope of the <em>agger</em> externally - is with an angle of forty five degrees, being half a right angle, the - most natural and commodious for beauty and force to oppose against - the side weight: or they might erect them in the solid work on the - top of the terrace, seeing it has abundantly strength enough. But in - the particularity of these modes no certainty is at this time to be - expected. However, by the situation of the place, the architect has - taken great care, according to Vitruvius his rules about theatres, to - obviate the inconvenience of the sun-beams as well as possible; and - that in three respects. 1st, As he has set it upon a plain declining - northwards, and upon the higher part of the plain; upon the very tip - where the declivity begins. 2dly. By taking the bearing of it exactly, - I found the opening, or entrance thereto, is to the north-east precise: - hence it is very plain and easy to conceive, that from nine o’clock - in the morning till sun-set, in the longest day of the year, the sun - will be on the backs of the spectators, upon the upper or south-west - half of the building; which contrivance is worthy of notice: and that - this is not done upon account of the city of Dorchester lying that way, - but as a thing essential, is plain from the like in the amphitheatre - of Silchester, which opens upon the same point, though directly the - farthest from the city. 3dly, The breadth of the opening or entrance, - level with the surface, and opposite to the falling beams of the sun, - must produce a very great rebatement of the heat thereof, reflected - into this vast concave, and prove a convenience the other amphitheatres - are wholly destitute of: and this purpose is so much regarded, that, - if we consider it with a scrupulous eye, we shall find that the - western side of this upper half of the terrace and the pavilion there - is somewhat broader, and nearer the upper end of the long diameter, - than the eastern. In the midway of the terrace between the pavilions - on both sides and the <em>cavea</em>, are still to be seen two round - holes, which seem to be places where they set poles to oppose against - those others leaning on the out-side that bear the sail-cloths. The - section or profile of this work is contrived with exquisite judgement - in proportioning its parts; for the eye of a man standing at the most - retired part of the terrace next the parapet is in the right line of - the declivity within side; of a man standing in the middle of it, his - eye sees the heads of the spectators sitting under him on the upper - <em>subsellia</em>, even with the line of the circular walk; the eye of - him standing on the edge of the terrace, sees the heads of those on the - lowermost <em>subsellia</em>, even with the edge of the <em>podium</em>, - and commands the whole <em>area</em>: therefore we may<span class="pagenum" id="Page_171">171</span> conclude none - were permitted to stand on the circular walk, for that would have - obstructed the sight, but it was left open for passage. I took notice - before, that on both sides, the terrace at the top of the lower half - seemed to me narrower than that at the other and principal half: - whether so originally, and for sake of any advantage to be had in this - respect, and that the meanest of the people stood here, or that it has - happened to have been more wasted away since, I cannot be positive; - but I judged it not material enough to be regarded in the scheme: for, - in the main, I found the breadth of the side of the work, or solid, - taken upon the ground-plot, is equal to half the longest diameter - of the <em>area</em>, or a fourth of the whole longest diameter. Its - perpendicular altitude, from the top of the terrace to the bottom of - the <em>area</em>, is a fourth of the longest diameter of the <em>area</em>.</p> - - <p>In the middle of each side we may observe a <em>cuneus</em>, or parcel of - the seats, of near thirty feet broad, just over the most elevated part - of the circular work, and reaching up to the terrace, which swells out - above the concavity of the whole, and answering to the rising ground - in the middle of the terrace, which we call the pavilions, and have - assigned for the seats of the officers among the soldiery. This is upon - the shortest diameter, and over the <em>tribunalia</em> of the emperor - and prætor; and consequently cuts each side of the upper <em>series</em> - of seats above the circular walk into two equal parts. I have guessed - only at these reasons for it, which I leave to better judgements. One - might possibly be, to give a greater beauty to the range of seats over - the circular walk by its break, which is a thing not practised at all - in other amphitheatres, unless we suppose this effect produced by their - <em>vomitoria</em>: or is it not more necessary here, because of the - circular walk, which causes the <em>series</em> of seats above them to - be broader at the extremity than in the middle, and therein different - from the aspect of common amphitheatres? Or was not this division - useful in distinguishing the great length of that <em>series</em> into - separate compartments for two different sort of plebeians? Or is it - necessary to distribute the three orders of people; the senators under - the circular walk to the <em>podium</em>, whose place in general was - called <em>orchestra</em>; that half of the upper seats on the upper or - south side of this protuberant part, to the equestrian order; that on - the lower or north side, to the people or vulgar? But there seems to - be another likely reason, that every seat here was divided into two - (at least some part of it) in the nature of steps, as was practised - in particular places of all other amphitheatres: and perhaps there - were three of these ranges of steps, one in the middle, and one on - each side: that in the middle was for the officers to ascend from the - circular walk to their tribunals, or tents, set upon the raised part of - the terrace, whilst the common soldiers went up by the ascent over the - cave, at the upper end. The steps on each side led to the respective - halves of the upper <em>series</em> of seats above the circular walk. All - which uses to me appear convenient and necessary for ease, regularity, - and decency. In the upper or south-west half of the internal slope have - been some deformities, caused by the inner edge of the terrace in some - places cut or fallen down, which spoils the curve a little: and, as the - lower terraces diminish gradually from the pavilions to the entrance, - that on the western end has received great damage over and above; for - the inward verge of it has been thrown down intirely: as for that - north-easterly half of the terrace, which we said was narrower, more - exposed to the sun, and for that reason allotted to the last rabble, - we leave them to scramble up with somewhat more labour over the whole - <em>series</em> of the seats at that end, which we may reasonably judge - were last filled by the spectators.</p> - - <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_172">172</span></p> - - <p>These noble buildings, which were of a fine invention, and well - calculated for their uses, were most frequently called, from their - hollow figure, <em>cavea</em>; of which there are many quotations to - be had out of the old poets, and other writers: and originally it - was inherent to theatres; in which sense commonly used by Cicero and - others, but at length passed chiefly to amphitheatres, as the greater - works. The matter of some was brick, as that near Trajecto in the - Campania of Italy; another at Puteoli; others stone, and others solid - marble; as that famous one at Capua, another at Athens, and that at - Verona. The amphitheatre which is still in part to be seen at Pola in - Istria, was of stone and wood too; for the whole frame of the seats - was made of timber, the portico’s only, or external part, of stone. - The wit of man could not find out a fitter scheme for commodiousness - of seeing and hearing: and in some respect, I conceit, they had an eye - to the form of their harps, fiddles, and such instruments of music, - as modulate sounds in a roundish cavity: the oval turn thereof, and - the solidity of the materials, had all the requisites of receiving and - returning the vibrations of the air to greater advantage. Vitruvius - advises, in this case, that the place, as well as the stuff, wherein - these buildings are set, and of which they are composed, must not be - what he calls <em>surd</em>, such as deaden the sound, but make smart - repercussions, and in just space of time; which is of great consequence - in the philosophy of echoes: for if the voice strike upon a solid - that is not harmonious in its texture, that is, whose parts are not - of a proper tone or tenseness, not consentaneous to the vibrations of - musical notes; or if this solid be too near, or too far distant, so - that it reverberates too quick, or too slow, as a room too little, or - too great; all the main business of hearing and sounds is disturbed. - Vitruvius is very large upon this head, to whom I refer the reader. - Now I suppose the ancients learnt by experience and trial, as well - as by reasoning upon the nature of things, that such a capacity and - compass, and of such extent, was best for this end: whence we find, - that all their amphitheatres are much about the same bulk, and executed - upon nearly the same proportions. A thing of this kind deceives the - eye without strict consideration; for it is bigger than it seems, and - a person in the middle of it, to one upon the terrace, looks lesser - than one would imagine. It is true indeed, that ours is not made of - so solid materials as brick, stone or marble; but yet it is possible - there may be as much an error in one extreme as the other, and nature - affects a mediocrity. One shall scarce doubt that a <em>convallis</em>, - or proper convexity between two mountains, will give as fine an echo - as any artificial work that can be contrived. I can say, however, in - favour of the subject we are upon, that in effect it has a very fine - and agreeable sound, (as I purposely several times tried) and seems - to want nothing of the compactness of matter, or closeness of the - place, though doubtless much deficient in the original depth, which - would improve it. An echo here is not to be expected, the return being - too quick; but after the voice you hear a ringing, as of a brass pot, - or bell; which shows the proportion well adjusted: and perhaps, if - we consider the great numbers of the stair-cases and openings, or - what they call <em>vomitoria</em>, in the other amphitheatres, for the - people to come in and go out at, which are intirely wanting here; we - may not be far to seek for the reason of it, or scruple thinking ours - to be the better model: the sides being perfectly uniform, and free - from those frequent apertures, seem better adapted for the rolling, - concentring, and retorting the voice. It is not unlikely that some - may think the great gap and discontinuity of our entrance an obstacle - in the case; but to such I<span class="pagenum" id="Page_173">173</span> would propose a <em>quære</em>, Whether - that single break, which bears so small a proportion to the whole, in - account of those best skilled in the doctrine of <em>acoustics</em>, be - not by far more inconsiderable in that point, than the multiplicity - of those other passages which we see in all drawings of this kind? - Or whether again it be not a real advantage to the sound? as is the - hole in the sounding-board of a fiddle, harp, harpsichord, or the - like instrument; or when two holes are made, as frequently; but, if - there were twenty instead thereof, probably it would be injurious, - though of less bulk when all put together. Perhaps the air intirely - pent up in this great hollow, without any collateral aperture, may be - obstructed in the varieties of its necessary motions and reflections, - so as to delight the ear: and I must profess myself of this opinion, - which seems confirmed by Nature’s abhorrence of such figures, in the - constant outlets of valleys some way or other. It is certain, whatever - effect the entrance has as to the sound, it must be highly useful in - cooling the place, in admitting the breezes of the north-easterly air - from over the meadows to refresh them; and the side of the opposite - hill beyond the town, diversified with hedge-grows, presents a - beautiful scene to the better spectators: nor is the present town - deficient in contributing to the landscape: for, as you advance from - the <em>arena</em> toward the entrance, the two handsome towers of the - churches appear very agreeably at each cheek of the entrance.</p> - - <p>But we have reason to content ourselves with the plain matter of - fact, and need not enter into a dispute, whether necessity or choice - determined the Romans here to use the present materials, or whether the - entrance was originally of the manner we see it: it is certain, that in - all the places where I have seen these amphitheatres, the Roman walls - that incompassed the towns are still left, built with ranges of brick, - stone, flint, and indissoluble mortar; so that ignorance of building - cannot be laid to their charge. Nor is this practice wholly confined - to our island, and without parallel; for there is now in France an - amphitheatre, not improperly to be reckoned of this sort, whereof - Lipsius gives us a large account: it is at a place called Doveon, near - Pont du sey, upon the river Loire, as you go from Anjou to Poictou; a - place where the Druids are said to have had a seat: this is cut out - of a mountain of stone, but of a very soft kind, and, I suppose, not - much better than our chalk: it is not near so big as ours, and much - inferior in beauty and convenience: here are chambers hewn out of the - rock for the caves; and the <em>area</em> is but very small. The seats - of the theatre of Bacchus at Athens are still visible, cut out of the - natural rock. It is not much to be doubted, that in many places in - France, and other provinces of the Roman empire, where the same chalk - is the soil, there are such as ours, though as little regarded: and - we may reasonably think, in the beginning of the commonwealth, before - art, luxury, and magnificence had got to its highest pitch, that the - Romans themselves were contented with such of grassy turf. The people - of Rome originally stood at the games. Cicero, <em>de Amicit.</em> c. - 7. says, <i lang="la">stantes plaudebant in re ficta</i>. So Tac. <em>Annal.</em> - XIV. 20. “If you look back to customs of antiquity, the people stood - at the shows; for if they had been accommodated with seats, they would - have idled the whole day away at the theatre.” Valer. Max. XI. 4. says, - “it was ordered by the senate, that no one should set benches for - shows in the city, nor within a mile of it, or should see the games - sitting, that the manly posture of standing, the peculiar note of the - Roman nation, should be observed even at diversions.” If any one had - rather think, that ours never had any seats, but that the people stood - upon the plain<span class="pagenum" id="Page_174">174</span> grassy declivity, I shall not be ato it, and the - rather because it is your lordship’s opinion: yet it seemed to me, - viewing the sides very curiously, when the sun shone upon them with a - proper light and shade, that I could see the very marks of the poles - that lay upon the slopes, whereon the benches were fastened. Ovid, - <i lang="la">de arte amandi</i>, speaking of theatres, says the seats were turf.</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza" lang="la"> - <div class="i0"><i>In gradibus sedet populus de cespite factis,</i></div> - <div class="i2"><i>Qualibet hirsutas fronde tegente comas.</i></div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0">On grassy seats of turf the people sate,</div> - <div class="i0">And leaves of trees Thessalic caps supply.</div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">This of ours seems to be a better method than that in the amphitheatre - at Pola; and, if it is readily owned much inferior to those at Rome, - yet even those were exceeded by the noble Greek architects, especially - by that most admirable theatre near the temple of Æsculapius in - Epidaurus, of which Pausanias, an eye-witness of both, speaks <em>in - argolicis</em>: “for, though it is not so big as some others, yet for - the art of it, the nicety of its constituents, and for beauty, who dare - contend with Polycletus, who was the architect of it?” says he.</p> - - <p>As it is not my intent to write a complete history of amphitheatres, - or further than what is necessary to our present purpose, and to give - a clear understanding of our work; so I forbear saying any thing of - the manners, times, qualities, and circumstances, of the games here - practised, but suppose them much the same in all points with those used - at Rome, and other places, and with suitable grandeur and magnificence; - whether in relation to hunting or fighting of wild beasts, of the same - or different kinds, with one another, or with men; of the gladiators, - wrestlings, of the pageants called by the ancients <em>pegmata</em>, - whence our word seems derived; of the showers of saffron water to - refresh the spectators; of the gods these places were dedicated to, - and their festivals: the whole of these matters, by those that have - a mind to make themselves acquainted therewith, is best learnt from - authors who have largely and professedly handled the subject; such as - the learned Lipsius before quoted, Donatus, and many more Pitiscus - will inform us of in his Lexicon. It is not to be questioned, that the - Romans, who had so firmly settled themselves here for the space of 400 - years, were for elegance and politeness much upon the level with those - of the continent. But amongst other shows and diversions of beasts, - we may safely imagine that our British bull-dogs bore a part, since - the Romans brought them up for the use of the Italian amphitheatres. - Claudian speaks of them thus,</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza" lang="la"> - <div class="i0"><i>Magnaque taurorum fracturi colla Britanni.</i></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">But see a large and learned account of them from ancient authors in Mr. - Camden’s <cite>Britannia</cite>, Hampshire, pag. 119.</p> - - <p>I shall give the reader a plain calculation of the number of people, - that might commodiously be present at the solemn sports and diversions, - made generally upon holy-days and great festivities of their gods. - The people hereabouts told me, that once they executed a woman for - petit-treason, in the middle of the <em>area</em>, by burning; which - brought all the country round to the sight, and filled the whole place: - they by a gross guess supposed there might be 10,000. But if we allow - a foot and half for each person sitting, and the number of seats, as - I have delineated it, 24; then one side of the building spread <em>in - plano</em> will form a conic <em>frustrum</em> 440 feet long at top, 280 - at bottom; taking the medium number 360, multiplying it by 24, it<span class="pagenum" id="Page_175">175</span> - gives us 8640 feet; from which take off a fourth part, to reduce it to - single places of a foot and half, there remain 6480 places on one half - of the amphitheatre; double this for the other side, and you produce - 12,960 single places for spectators upon the whole range of seats. For - fear of exceeding the truth, I omit all that might occasionally stand - on the terrace at top, the ascent up to it, and on the entrance.</p> - - <p>It would be vain to talk of the exact time, or the persons concerned - in building this amphitheatre: but my friend Mr. Pownall of Lincoln, - before spoken of, has a silver coin of Philippus, ploughed up in the - very place. <i lang="la">imp. m. jul. philippus aug. ℞ lætit. fundat.</i> - a Genius with a garland in his right, the helm of a ship in his left - hand: the legend of the reverse, I must own, seems strongly to intimate - he made or repaired this work, or that some solemn sports were here - performed in his time; notwithstanding his melancholy and cynical - nature, which Sext. Aurelius gives us an account of, or that he was - a christian. He reigned about A. D. 240. yet I chuse to think it is - of a higher date. Tacitus tells us, so early as the time of Agricola - in Titus his reign, they began to introduce luxury among the Britons; - for he exhorted them privately, and publicly assisted them, to build - temples, places of public resort, and fine houses; and by degrees - they came to those excitements to debauchery, portico’s, baths, and - the like, of which we frequently find the ruins. Therefore we may - suppose amphitheatres were not forgotton; and probably this was not - later than that time, so near the southern coast, (which among the - Britons themselves was the most civilised) so rich and fine a country: - for Titus his father Vespasian, partly under Claudius the emperor, - and partly under Aulus Plautius his lieutenant, conquered all the - parts hereabouts (as we mentioned in the beginning of this letter) - where he fought the Britons thirty times, subdued two of their most - potent nations, took above twenty of their towns, and the whole Isle - of Wight. No doubt but the people, inhabitants of this country, the - <em>Durotriges</em>, and the town of Dorchester, <em>Durnovaria</em>, were - included in his conquests; and they, whatever reign it was in, for - their entertainment, erected this noble work; of which, in comparison - of our modern bear-gardens, and places of prize-fighting, I shall - venture to give it as my sentiment,</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry" lang="la"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0"><i>Hunc homines dicant, hos statuisse feras.</i></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <div class="right">7 Nov. 1723.</div> - - <div class="chapter"> - <span class="pagenum" id="Page_176">176</span> - <hr class="full thick"> - <hr class="full mt0"> - <h2 class="nobreak" id="ITER_SEPTIMUM_ANTONINI_AUG">ITER SEPTIMUM ANTONINI AUG. VII.</h2> - </div> - - <hr class="full"> - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry" lang="la"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0"><i>Adde tot egregias urbes, operumque laborem.</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Tot congesta manu præruptis oppida saxis,</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Fluminaque antiquos subterlabentia muros.</i> <span class="smcap fright">Virg. Geor. II.</span></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - <hr class="full"> - - <div class="center bold mt3 lh1"><i>To</i><span class="gesperrt2"> ROGER GALE</span>, <i>Esq</i>;</div> - - <p class="drop-cap">THE reasons I have to address the following journey to you, are - both general and particular: of the first sort, the title affixed - to it could not but put me in mind of your claim to these kind of - disquisitions from any hand, whose excellent commentary on Antoninus’s - Itinerary has deservedly given you the palm of ancient learning, and - rendered your character classic among the chief restorers of the Roman - Britain. But I am apprehensive it will be easier to make these papers - of mine acceptable to the world, than to yourself, both as the most - valuable part of them is your own, and as I purpose by it to remind - you of favouring the public with a new edition of that work, to which - I know you have made great additions; and in this I am sure they will - join with me. The honour you have indulged me of a long friendship, - the pleasure and advantage I have reaped in travelling with you, and - especially a great part of this journey, are particular reasons, or - rather a debt from myself and the world, if any thing of antique - inquiries I can produce that are not illaudable, if what time I spend - in travelling, may not be wholly a hunting after fresh air with the - vulgar citizens, but an examination into the works of nature, and of - past ages. I have no fears, that aught here will be less acceptable to - you, because perhaps in some things I may differ from your sentiments: - the sweetness of your disposition, and your great judgement, I know, - will discern and applaud what is really just, and excuse the errors: - difference of opinions, though false, is often of great service in - furthering a discovery of the truth: to think for one’s self is the - prerogative of learning; and no one, but a tyrant in books, will - persecute another for it. It is certain, Antoninus his Itinerary is an - endless fund of inquiry. I doubt not but in future researches I shall - be induced as much to vary from myself as now from others; and, after - our best endeavours, succeeding writers will correct us all.</p> - - <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Via Trinovantica.</span></div> - - <p>The last summer I travelled this whole Seventh Journey, and in the - order of the Itinerary; but I took in several other places by the way, - which relate to the clearing some parts of other journeys. Parallel to - the great Icening-street, runs another Roman road from south-west to - north-east,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_177">177</span> through London, beginning at the sea-coast in Hampshire by - Rumsey, and ending at the sea-coast in Suffolk about Aldborough. The - name of it is utterly lost: if I might have the liberty of assigning - one, it should be <em>via Trinovantica</em>, as it tends to the country - of those people; and names are necessary to avoid confusion. The lower - part of it, or that comprehended between London and Ringwood upon the - edge of Dorsetshire, is the subject of this journey; but because I have - already given an account of several towns that relate to the XIIIth - and XIVth journeys of Antoninus, which have some connexion with this, - and that I conceive they are considerably faulty in the original, I - shall run through some few more I had opportunity to see, and offer my - conjectures towards the restitution of those journeys.</p> - - <p>Upon the great moor between Bagshot and Okingham, near East-Hamsted - park, we saw a large camp upon a hill doubly ditched, commonly called - Cæsar’s camp, as many more without any reason: there has been a well - in it, and both Roman and British coins have been found there, one of - Cunobelin in silver: its figure is not regular, but conformable to the - top of the hill: near it are two large barrows, Ambury and Edgebury. - At Berkham by Okingham I bought a very elegant British coin of gold, - dug up by a woman in her garden: it is of the most ancient kind, and - without letters. I saw a British gold coin found near Old Windsor; - another dug up, 1719, at Hanmer hill, between Guildford and Farnham.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Vindoma.</div> - - <div class="sidenote">TAB. LXI.</div> - - <p>All the country hereabouts, and to Silchester, is clay, moor, sand, - gravel by spots, much boggy, springy land, much good land, but more - bad: the water is blackish every where. Silchester is a place that - a lover of antiquity will visit with great delight: it stands upon - the highest ground thereabouts, but hid with wood, which grows very - plentifully all about it. Many were the Roman roads that met here, - though now scarce any road; which is the reason it is so little known: - it is likewise inconvenient for travellers, because no inns are near - it; and it may be serviceable to tell the curious, that Aldermaston is - the nearest town where lodging is to be found, three miles off; for at - the place we may truly say,</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza" lang="la"> - <div class="i0"><i>Rarus & antiquis habitator in urbibus errat.</i></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">The walls of this city are standing, more or less perfect, quite - round; perhaps the most intire of any in the Roman empire, especially - the whole north side of the wall, which is a most agreeable sight. - The composition is chiefly flint for the space of four foot high, - then a binding of three layers of rag-stone laid flat: in many places - five of these double intervals remain for a great length. There was - a broad ditch quite round, and now for the most part impassable, and - full of springs. Here and there Roman bricks are left in the walls. - Though on the out-side they are of this considerable height, yet the - ground within is so raised as nearly to be equal to the top, and that - quite round crowned with oaks and other timber-trees of no mean bulk, - and which Mr. Camden takes notice of in his time. Not long since, - lady Blessington cut 500l. worth of timber from thence. Gildas says, - Constantius the son of Constantine the Great built it, and sowed corn - in the track of the walls, as an omen of their perpetuity:<a id="FNanchor_135" href="#Footnote_135" class="fnanchor">[135]</a> indeed, - now the whole city is arable; and among the fields Roman bricks, bits - of pots, rubbish of buildings, are scattered every where, and coins - are picked up every day. It is a parallelogram whose shortest side - to the longest is as 3 to 4; its length about 2600 feet, its breadth - 2000; standing<span class="pagenum" id="Page_178">178</span> conformable to the four cardinal points: it had two - gates upon its length opposite. There is only one farm-house within - it, and the church. To the east, by that house, the foundation of - the gate is visible, and several Roman bricks thereabouts. All the - yards here are like a solid rock, with rubbish, pavements and mortar, - cemented together. The late Rev. Mr. Betham, minister of this place, - a learned, curious and worthy person, had collected a vast number of - coins and antiquities found here: he is buried under the north wall - of the chancel without side: within is another monument of a person - of quality: it is remarkable that a wall only divides them in their - graves, who both met a sad and disastrous fate at different times - in the same place, being drowned in Fleet-ditch. Onion-hole, in the - middle of the southern wall, is a place much talked of here by the - ignorant country people, which is only an arch in the foundation for - the issue of a sewer: they have a like story here of this city being - taken by sparrows. I saw a silver coin of Philippus, and a brass one - of Constantine, and many more. A spring arises from under the wall at - the church-yard. The streets are still visible in the corn. Rings with - stones in them are often found, among inscriptions and all sorts of - other antiquities.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Amphitheatre.</div> - - <div class="sidenote">TAB. XLIII. 2d Vol.</div> - - <p>Five hundred foot without the city, on the north-east corner I espied - another great curiosity, which the people think was a castle: I - presently discerned it to be an amphitheatre: it is in bulk, in shape, - and all points, the same as that at Dorchester, but not built of so - solid materials; for it is chiefly clay and gravel: it stands in a - yard by the road side, near a ruinous house and barn, upon a sloping - piece of ground: eastward toward the road there is a pit: there it is - sixty foot high on the out-side. The whole <em>area</em> or <em>arena</em> - within is now covered with water, but they say it is not much above - three foot deep: the bottom of it, and the work, must certainly be - exceeding solid, and well compared, to retain the water so many years - without draining through: it is a most noble and beautiful concave, but - intirely over-grown with thorn-bushes, briars, holly, broom, furze, - oak and ash trees, &c. and has from times immemorial been a yard for - cattle, and a watering-pond; so that it is a wonder their trampling has - not defaced it much more. I examined this fine antiquity with all the - exactness possible: the terrace at top, the circular walk, the whole - form, is not obscure: it is posited exactly as that before described, - with its longest diameter from north-east to south-west; its entrance - north-east, though farthest from the city. There is an ascent to it - from the entrance side, that being upon the lowest ground: at the upper - end, the level of the ground is not much below the top of the terrace, - and vastly above that of the <em>arena</em>; so that I conceive the - better sort of the people went that way directly from the city into - their seats: there is such a gap too in that part, from the ruin of - the cave where the wild beasts were kept. An old house standing there - with an orchard has forwarded its ruin from that quarter; and they - have levelled some part of the terrace for their garden. Surveying the - whole could not but put me in mind of that piece of Roman magnificence, - when the emperors caused great trees to be taken up by the roots, and - planted in the amphitheatres and circs, <em>pro tempore</em>, to imitate - forests wherein they hunted beasts; which here is presented in pure nature.</p> - - <p>Riding along the road on the north side of Silchester, I left it with - this reflection: Now a person of a moderate fortune may buy a whole - Roman city, which once half a kingdom could not do; and a gentleman may - be lord of the soil where formerly princes and emperors commanded. To - the west of the place, but at some distance, runs a high bank overgrown - with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_179">179</span> trees seemingly north and south: they say there is another - such, south of the city: which would make one suspect they were raised - by some besiegers. Farther on I crossed a great Roman road coming - from Winchester: they call it Long-bank and Grimesdike. I have very - often found this name applied to a road, a wall, a ditch of antiquity; - which would make one fancy it is a Saxon word signifying the witches - work; for the vulgar generally think these extraordinary works made by - help of the devil. They told me it goes through Burfield and Reading. - Towards Winchester I could see it as far as the horizon, perfectly - strait, ten miles off. We may say with the poet,</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza" lang="la"> - <div class="i0"><i>Tellus in longas est patefacta vias.</i> <span class="smcap fright">Tibull.</span></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">Near it they talk of a stone thrown by an imp from Silchester walls, a - mile off, which I suppose a mile-stone. Mr. Camden says a Roman road - runs westward from Silchester, which I imagine goes to Andover. From - Aldermaston is a fine view of the country hanging over the Kennet, - lately made navigable. Going from Aldermaston to Kingsclere, where - once was a palace of the Saxon kings, I passed over Brimpton common: - here are many very fine Celtic barrows:<span class="sidenote"><em>Barrows</em> Br.</span> the soil is a moor full of - <em>erica</em>, which they dig up for fewel; underneath it is sand: at - Kingsclere the mighty chalk-hills begin. Upon the top of a very high - promontory is a square Roman camp, in a park. From hence to Andover is - an hard way and open country. Just before I descended the continuation - of this great ridge of hills overlooking Andover, I crossed a ditch - like Wansditch, hanging upon the edge of the hills, which I suppose - some division among the ancient Britons: it extended itself both ways - as far as I could see: the foss is not very large, though the bank is: - the foss is northward.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>43·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <img src="images/i_178.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div> - <figcaption><i>The Side view of the</i> Amphitheater <i>at Silchester. <span class="small">May 8. 1724.</span></i></figcaption> - </figure> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Andaoreon.</div> - - <p>Andover is (not to be questioned) the <em>Andaoreon</em> of Ravennas: - the name signifies the watery habitation; <em>annedh</em>, habitatio; - <em>dur</em>, aqua. It stands on the slope of a hill just by the springs - of the river Tees, or <em>t’isca</em>: they arise here northward of the - town very plentiful, and are carried in a thousand rills through all - the meadows, till they unite and pass under the bridge. The church is - an aukward old building; the west door, of an ancient circular make. - They are now pulling down the timber market-house to build a new one - of stone: the market-place is a broad street. Upon a very high hill - to the south-west is a large Roman camp, seeming to be admirably well - fortified: it is called <span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Bury-hill</span> Ro. <i>Camp</i>.</span>Bury hill. Between this and Stockbridge is - Dunbury hill, a circular camp, doubly intrenched with various works at - the entrance.</p> - - <p>I travelled along a fine downy country, ’till passing the river Bourn - in Wiltshire I came to the Icening-street near Haradon hill; where I - intended to observe the great eclipse of the sun, which was to be on - the next day; of which memorable <em>phænomenon</em> I judge it will not - be disagreeable if I repeat what I wrote of it.</p> - - <h3>To Dr. <i>Edmund Halley</i>.</h3> - - <p class="drop-cap">ACCORDING to my promise, I send you what I observed of the solar - eclipse, though I fear it will not be of any great use to you. I was - not prepared with any instruments for measuring time, or the like, - and proposed to myself only to watch all the appearances that Nature - would present to the naked eye on so remarkable an occasion, and which - generally are overlooked, or but grosly regarded. I chose for my - station a place<span class="pagenum" id="Page_180">180</span> called Haradon hill, two miles eastward from Amsbury, - and full east from the opening of Stonehenge avenue, to which it is as - the point of view. Before me lay the vast plain where that celebrated - work stands, and I knew that the eclipse would appear directly over - it: beside, I had the advantage of a very extensive prospect every - way, this being the highest hill hereabouts, and nearest the middle of - the shadow. Full west of me, and beyond Stonehenge, is a pretty copped - hill, like the top of a cone lifting itself above the horizon: this is - Clay hill, near Warminster, twenty miles distant, and near the central - line of darkness, which must come from thence; so that I could have - notice enough before-hand of its approach. Abraham Sturgis and Stephen - Ewens, both of this place and sensible men, were with me. Though it was - very cloudy, yet now and then we had gleams of sun-shine, rather more - than I could perceive at any other place around us. These two persons - looking through smoaked glasses, while I was taking some bearings - of the country with a circumferentor, both confidently affirmed the - eclipse was begun; when by my watch I found it just half an hour after - five: and accordingly from thence the progress of it was visible, - and very often to the naked eye; the thin clouds doing the office of - glasses. From the time of the sun’s body being half covered, there was - a very conspicuous circular <em>iris</em> round the sun, with perfect - colours. On all sides we beheld the shepherds hurrying their flocks - into fold, the darkness coming on; for they expected nothing less than - a total eclipse, for an hour and a quarter.</p> - - <p>When the sun looked very sharp, like a new moon, the sky was pretty - clear in that spot: but soon after a thicker cloud covered it; at which - time the <em>iris</em> vanished, the copped hill before mentioned grew - very dark, together with the horizon on both sides, that is, to the - north and south, and looked blue; just as it appears in the east at - the declension of day: we had scarce time to tell ten, when Salisbury - steeple, six mile off southward, became very black; the copped hill - quite lost, and a most gloomy night with full career came upon us. At - this instant we lost sight of the sun, whose place among the clouds - was hitherto sufficiently distinguishable, but now not the least trace - of it to be found, no more than if really absent: then I saw by my - watch, though with difficulty, and only by help of some light from - the northern quarter, that it was six hours thirty-five minutes: just - before this the whole compass of the heavens and earth looked of a - lurid complexion, properly speaking, for it was black and blue; only - on the earth upon the horizon the blue prevailed. There was likewise - in the heavens among the clouds much green interspersed; so that the - whole appearance was really very dreadful, and as symptoms of sickening - nature.</p> - - <p>Now I perceived us involved in total darkness, and palpable, as I may - aptly call it: though it came quick, yet I was so intent that I could - perceive its steps, and feel it as it were drop upon us, and fall on - the right shoulder (we looking westward) like a great dark mantle, or - coverlet of a bed, thrown over us, or like the drawing of a curtain on - that side: and the horses we held in our hands were very sensible of - it, and crouded close to us, startling with great surprise. As much - as I could see of the men’s faces that stood by me, had a horrible - aspect. At this instant I looked around me, not without exclamations of - admiration, and could discern colours in the heavens; but the earth had - lost its blue, and was wholly black. For some time, among the clouds, - there were visible streaks of rays, tending to the place of the sun as - their centre; but immediately<span class="pagenum" id="Page_181">181</span> after, the whole appearance of the - earth and sky was intirely black. Of all things I ever saw in my life, - or can by imagination fancy, it was a sight the most tremendous.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_180"> - <img src="images/i_180.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div> - <figcaption><i>The appearance of the</i> Total Solar eclipse <i>from - Haradon hill May 11, 1724.</i></figcaption> - </figure> - - <p>Toward the north-west, whence the eclipse came, I could not in the - least find any distinction in the horizon between heaven and earth, for - a good breadth, of about sixty degrees or more; nor the town of Amsbury - underneath us, nor scarce the ground we trod on. I turned myself round - several times during this total darkness, and remarked at a good - distance from the west on both sides, that is, to the north and south, - the horizon very perfect; the earth being black, the lower part of - the heavens light: for the darkness above hung over us like a canopy, - almost reaching the horizon in those parts, or as if made with skirts - of a lighter colour; so that the upper edges of all the hills were as a - black line, and I knew them very distinctly by their shape or profile: - and northward I saw perfectly, that the interval of light and darkness - in the horizon was between Martinsal hill and St. Ann’s hill; but - southward it was more indefinite. I do not mean that the verge of the - shadow passed between those hills, which were but twelve miles distant - from us: but so far I could distinguish the horizon; beyond it, not - at all. The reason of it is this: the elevation of ground I was upon - gave me an opportunity of seeing the light of the heavens beyond the - shadow: nevertheless this verge of light looked of a dead, yellowish - and greenish colour: it was broader to the north than south, but the - southern was of a tawny colour. At this time, behind us or eastward - toward London, it was dark too, where otherwise I could see the hills - beyond Andover; for the foremost end of the shadow was past thither: so - that the whole horizon was now divided into four parts of unequal bulk - and degrees of light and dark: the part to the north-west, broadest - and blackest; to the south-west, lightest and longest. All the change - I could perceive during the totality, was that the horizon by degrees - drew into two parts, light and dark; the northern hemisphere growing - still longer, lighter, and broader, and the two opposite dark parts - uniting into one, and swallowing up the southern enlightened part.</p> - - <p>As at the beginning the shade came feelingly upon our right shoulders, - so now the light from the north, where it opened as it were: though - I could discern no defined light or shade upon the earth that way, - which I earnestly watched for; yet it was manifestly by degrees, and - with oscillations, going back a little, and quickly advancing further; - till at length upon the first lucid point appearing in the heavens, - where the sun was, I could distinguish pretty plainly a rim of light - running along-side of us a good while together, or sweeping by at our - elbows from west to east. Just then, having good reason to suppose the - totality ended with us, I looked on my watch, and found it to be full - three minutes and a half more: now the hill-tops changed their black - into blue again, and I could distinguish a horizon where the centre - of darkness was before: the men cried out, they saw the copped hill - again, which they had eagerly looked for: but still it continued dark - to the south-east; yet I cannot say that ever the horizon that way was - undistinguishable: immediately we heard the larks chirping and singing - very briskly for joy of the restored luminary, after all things had - been hushed into a most profound and universal silence: the heavens and - earth now appeared exactly like morning before sun-rise, of a greyish - cast, but rather more blue interspersed; and the earth, as far as the - verge of the hill reached, was of a dark green or russet colour.</p> - - <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_182">182</span></p> - - <p>As soon as the sun emerged, the clouds grew thicker, and the light was - very little amended for a minute or more, like a cloudy morning slowly - advancing. After about the middle of the totality, and so after the - emersion of the sun, we saw Venus very plainly, but no other star. - Salisbury steeple now appeared. The clouds never removed, so that we - could take no account of it afterward, but in the evening it lightened - very much. I hasted home to write this letter; and the impression was - so vivid upon my mind, that I am sure I could, for some days after, - have wrote the same account of it, and very precisely. After supper I - made a drawing of it from my imagination, upon the same paper I had - taken a prospect of the country before.</p> - - <p>I must confess to you, that I was (I believe) the only person in - England that regretted not the cloudiness of the day, which added so - much to the solemnity of the sight, and which imcomparably exceeded, - in my apprehension, that of 1715, which I saw very perfectly from the - top of Boston steeple in Lincolnshire, where the air was very clear: - but the night of this was more complete and dreadful. There indeed - I saw both sides of the shadow come from a great distance, and pass - beyond us to a great distance; but this eclipse had much more of - variety and majestic terror: so that I cannot but felicitate myself - upon the opportunity of seeing these two rare accidents of nature, in - so different a manner: yet I should willingly have lost this pleasure - for your more valuable advantage of perfecting the noble theory of - the celestial bodies, which last time you gave the world so nice a - calculation of; and wish the sky had now as much favoured us for an - addition to your honour and great skill, which I doubt not to be as - exact in this as before.<span class="fright0"><i>Ambsbury, Wilts, May 10, 1724.</i></span></p> - - <p class="mt3">Return we to matters of antiquity. Upon this very hill-top are great - pits dug lately by order of my lord Charlton for clay, which they find - here of a very stiff sort, by nature let in like veins among clefts of - the solid chalk: the workmen here, whilst they have been busy in taking - it up, have found many Romans coins, silver and brass, some very deep - in the earth, as they say; several of which I have now by me. I saw - likewise a very fair gold <em>Constantius</em>; the reverse, two Genii - holding a shield, <em>vot.</em> xxx. <cite>victoria Augg.</cite> It seems as if - the Romans, with their wonted sagacity, had been occupied here in the - same way, to make pottery ware, and not neglected to leave proof of it - according to their method. I took notice likewise of one side of the - summit being covered with oyster-shells loose upon the surface; and how - they came there I could get no information.</p> - - <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Icening-street.</span></div> - - <p>The Icening-street runs between this hill and the Bourn river, coming - from Newberry, as I suppose, through Chute forest, where vulgarly - called Chute causeway: at Lurgishal it makes a fine terrace-walk in - the garden of Sir Philip Medows; then passes the Bourn river about - Tudworth, and so by this place to the eastern gate of Old Sarum, the - Roman <span class="sidenote smcap">Sorbiodunum.</span><em>Sorbiodunum</em>, where it runs most precisely north-east - and south-west, as we said before. <span class="sidenote">TAB. LXV.</span>This city is perfectly round, and - formed upon one of the most elegant designs one can imagine: probably - a fortress of the old Britons, and I fancy somewhat like the famous - Alesia in Gaul, memorable for the ancient Hercules, its founder, and - for the siege of the great Cæsar; which only his genius could have - taken in his circumstances. The prospect of this place is at present - very august, and would have afforded us a most noble sight when in - perfection: such a one will not be difficult to conceive when we have - described it. It fills up the summit of a high and steep hill, which - originally rose equally on all sides to an <em>apex</em>: the whole work - is 1600 foot diameter, included in a ditch of a prodigious depth: - it is so contrived that in effect it has two ramparts, the inner and - outer, the ditch between: upon the inner, which is much the higher, - stood a strong wall of twelve foot thick, their usual standard, which - afforded a parapet at top for the defendants, with battlements quite - round: upon still higher ground is another deep circular ditch, of 500 - foot diameter; this is the castle or citadel. Upon the inner rampire of - this was likewise another wall, I suppose of like thickness: so that - between the inner ditch and the outer wall, all around, was the city. - This is divided into equal parts by a meridian line: both the banks are - still left; one to the south, the other to the north; and these had - walls upon them too: the traces of all the walls are still manifest, - and some parts of them left; but we may say with the poet of the whole,</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza" lang="la"> - <div class="i8"><i>————lapsis ingentia muris</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Saxa jacent, nulloque domus custode tenetur.</i> <span class="smcap fright">Lucan. I.</span></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">In the middle of each half, toward the east and west, is a gate, - with each a lunette before it, deeply ditched, and two oblique - entries; that to the east is square, to the west round: the hollow - where the wall stood is visible quite round, though the materials - are well-nigh carried away to New Sarum: in every quarter were two - towers, the foundations plainly appearing: then, with those that - were upon the cardinal points, the gates and the median rampart, as - it must necessarily be understood, there were twelve in the whole - circumference; so that, supposing it about 5000 feet in circumference, - there was a tower at every 400. Hence we may imagine the nature of - the city was thus: a circular street went round in the middle between - the inner and outer fortifications, concentric to the whole work; and - that cross streets, like <em>radii</em>, fronted each tower: then there - were twenty-four islets of building for houses, temples, or the like. - Now such is the design of this place, that if one half was taken by - an enemy, the other would still be defensible; and at last they might - retire into the castle. The city is now ploughed over, and not one - house left. In the angle to the north-west stood the cathedral and - episcopal palace: the foundations are at present so conspicuous, that I - could easily mark out the ground-plot of it, as in the <a href="#i_182">65th plate</a>: near - it is a large piece of the wall left, made of hewn stone with holes - quite through at equal spaces. One would imagine the Romans, in laying - down the <em>area</em> of this city, had Plato’s rules in view,<a id="FNanchor_136" href="#Footnote_136" class="fnanchor">[136]</a> in - his fifth dialogue of laws. Many wells have been filled up, and, no - doubt, with noble reliques of antiquity: they must have been very deep, - and especially that in the castle, and dug out of the solid chalk. - Of the castle-wall a good deal of huge fragments and foundations are - left: a double winding stair-case led up to the gate, where bits of - arch-work and immense strength of stone and mortar remains; and within, - many foundations and traces of buildings. In the north-east corner of - the city there is another rampart upon a <em>radius</em>, including a - squarish piece of ground; probably for some public edifice, but what - in particular, is now hard to say. <span class="sidenote">TAB. LXVI.</span>Certainly, for <span class="pagenum" id="Page_184">184</span>strength, air, and - prospect over the lovely downs, and for salubrity, this place was well - calculated, and impregnable to any thing but death and hunger. The - river Avon runs near the bottom of the hill. The history of its glory, - its strange vicissitudes, and its ruin by removal of the church to - New Sarum, may be learnt from Camden, Burton, and other authors; my - business being chiefly to describe things: but the very sight of such a - carcass would naturally from a traveller extort such an expostulation: - Is this the ancient episcopal see, and the seat of warlike men, now - become corn-fields, and pasture for sheep? Is this the place where - synods have been held, and British parliaments; where all the states of - the kingdom were summoned to swear fealty to William the Conqueror; the - palace of the most potent British and Saxon kings, and Roman emperors? - and conclude with Rutilius,</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza" lang="la"> - <div class="i0"><i>Non indignemur mortalia corpora solvi,</i></div> - <div class="i2"><i>Cernimus exemplis oppida posse mori.</i></div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0">Nor grieve at our own fate, since here we see</div> - <div class="i0">That towns themselves must die as well as we.</div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">Before the eastern gate of <em>Sorbiodunum</em>, a branch of the <span class="sidenote">Roman <em>way</em>.</span>Roman - way proceeds eastward to Winchester, which has never yet been observed: - upon this goes part of the XVth imperial journey in these words; - <em>Venta Belgarum, Brige, Sorbiodunum</em>. This way passes the river - Bourn at Ford: the ridge of it is plain, though the countrymen have - attacked it vigorously on both sides with their ploughs: we caught - them at the sacrilegious work, and reprehended them for it: then it - goes between Clarendon park, and the camp of Chlorus before described: - on the whole length of Farley common it is very conspicuous, made of - hard matter dug up all along on both sides; then ascends the hills - at Winterslow, which signifies the white hill; then through Buckholt - forest, where with good heed the course of it may be followed, though - through by-ways, pastures, woods and hedges; sometimes running the - length, sometimes crossing it: a little northward of West Titherley it - goes close by a farm-house and large barn upon a rising ground, and at - the edge of a wood. This is the proper distance of eight miles from - <em>Sorbiodunum</em>, and was the ancient <span class="sidenote smcap">Brige.</span>Brige; and Roman antiquities - are often found here: the British name imports a town upon the top of - the hill; <em>brege</em>, cacumen.</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza" lang="la"> - <div class="i0"><i>Nunc situs informis premit & deserta vetustas.</i> <span class="smcap fright">Hor.</span></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">All this country being part of the Conqueror’s new forest, this colony - of the Romans shared in that great depopulation he made for his - diversion. It is near the brink of that woody hill, called Horseshoe - wood from its being upon a hill, overlooking Broughton upon the river - Wallop, where Mr. Camden places the Brige. A little way farther upon - the same brink, on an <em>apex</em> of the hill, stands a large Celtic - barrow, ditched about, called Bols turret:<a id="FNanchor_137" href="#Footnote_137" class="fnanchor">[137]</a> there are several - other barrows thereabouts, and probably some Roman; for the Roman - road, here called the Cause-way, proceeds upon this edge to the river - at Bossington, though sometimes intercepted by corn-fields, where the - common road goes about, and then falls into it again: it passes over - the river at Bossington, then marches directly to Winchester west gate.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp73 mb4" id="i_182"> - <div class="plateno"><i>65</i></div> - <div><b>SORBIODVNVM.<br><i class="small">1. Aug. 1722.</i></b></div> - <div class="small"><i>The View.</i></div> - <div class="small"><i>The Ichnography.</i></div> - <div class="small"><i>The Section.</i></div> - <img src="images/i_182.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley designavit.</i></div> - <figcaption>Antiquæ Urbis Cadaver in Æs transtulit Joħes Pine Chalcographus.</figcaption> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_183"> - <div class="plateno"><i>66</i></div> - <img src="images/i_183.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div> - <div class="small">A. <i>Stratford</i> B. <i>the Icening Street</i>.</div> - <figcaption><i>Prospect of</i> Old Sarum <i>Aug. 1. 1723.</i></figcaption> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp65 mb4"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>75·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <img src="images/i_185.jpg" alt=""> - <div><b>MARCVS MODIVS MEDICVS. <i class="small">In Marmore</i><br> - <i>Apud Illustrissimum Comitem</i> Penbrokiæ, In Villa Carviliana.</b></div> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin:</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>G. V<sup>dr</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.5em;">.</span> Gucht Sculp.</i></div> - </figure> - - <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_185">185</span></p> - - <p>Having described this road, let us return to <em>Sorbiodunum</em>, - in order to pursue the Icening-street: but first give me leave to - impart to the reader somewhat of the pleasure you and I reaped at the - neighbouring <span class="sidenote smcap">Wilton.</span>Wilton. I shall only at this time give a catalogue of my - lord Pembroke’s most noble collection of ancient marbles, which may - be of use to the curious, in knowing the particulars of that glorious - <em>Musœum</em>, or that have a mind to view them.</p> - - <p>The BUSTO’S are in number 133. The STATUES 36. The BASSO RELIEVO’S 15. MISCELLANIES 9.</p> - - <p>I. Of the BUSTO’S. 1. Those made with eyes of different matter from - the bust. A Sibyl, the whole cavity of the eyes hollowed: Ariadne, - with agate eyes: A Greek Cupid, with agate eyes: Drusus, Germanicus; - these two are in copper, finely performed, with silver eyes.—2. Learned - persons. Hesiod: Homer, brought from Constantinople, seems by its high - antiquity to have been the first model of the father of the poets: - Sappho, the inimitable in poetry; this is of the ivory marble, the last - perfection of Greek sculpture: Pythagoras: Anacharsis, of an admirable - character: Socrates, by the roguish carver dressed like a Satyr, with - sharp ears: Plato, very ancient, and of a most venerable aspect: - Aristotle: Aristophanes: Apollonius Tyanæus, a most valuable antiquity, - with the right hand and arm: Marcus Modius, an Athenian physician, - of excellent Greek work: Epicurus, a little bust of the great atomic - philosopher:<span class="sidenote">TAB. XLIV. 2d Vol.</span> Posidonius, preceptor to Cicero: Sophocles: Aspasia, - who taught Socrates rhetoric: Isocrates: Cato major: Cicero, of - touch-stone: Horace, as some think; a young busto of speckled porphyry; - I am inclined to believe it Ovid: Seneca: Persius the Satyrist: Titus - Livius.—3. Of coloss proportion. Arsinoe mater: Ahenobarbus, the bad - father of the worse Nero: Julia Domna, wife of Severus: Geta when - young, their son.—4. Persons of Greece before the Roman empire: Cecrops - and his wife represented as Janus: Tmolus, a most ancient founder of - a colony: Ganymede, with the Phrygian bonnet, very beautiful: Dido: - Arsinoe filia: Phædra, wife of Theseus: Damas, the learned daughter - of Pythagoras: Olympias, mother of Alexander: Alexander magnus: - Lysimachus: Berenice mater: Berenice filia: Ptolemy, brother to - Cleopatra: Cleopatra, wife to Antipater: Ammonius Alexandrinus, one - of the Olympic victors: Iotape, wife of Antiochus Comagenes king of - Syria.—5. Consular persons: Lucius Junius Brutus, who slew Tarquin: - M. Junius Brutus, who slew Cæsar: P. Cornelius Scipio Africanus: - Scipio Asiaticus: P. Cornelius Scipio Nasica: one of the brothers of - the Horatii: Marcellus: Marius: Sulpicius Rufus: Dolabella: Cneius - Pompeius magnus: Sextus Pompeius.—6. Emperors, Empresses, Cæsars and - Augustæ, beside Geta and Julia Domna already mentioned. Julius Cæsar, - of oriental alabaster, the only original: Augustus: Julia, daughter - to Augustus, incomparably fine: Cajus Cæsar: Lucius Cæsar: Marcellus: - Drusus senior: Germanicus: Agrippina senior: Antonia, of curious - marble: Tiberius, of small brass: Caligula: Cæsonia, wife of Caligula: - Claudius, the conqueror of Britain: Drusilla: Messalina: Nero: Sabina - Poppæa, his wife, a naked busto: Octavia, his wife: Marcia: Galba: - Otho: Vitellius: Lucius Vitellius, brother to the emperor: Vespasian: - Titus: Julia, daughter of Titus: Domitian: Vespasianus novus, the - adopted son of Domitian: Nerva: Trajan: Hadrian: Sabina: Antinous, - Hadrian’s favourite: Antoninus Pius: Faustina senior: M. Aurelius - Antoninus Philosophus: Annius Verus: Lucius Verus: Commodus: Lucilla, - wife of Ælius: Lucilla junior, wife of Verus: Pertinax: Didius<span class="pagenum" id="Page_186">186</span> - Julianus: Crispina, wife of Commodus: Septimius Severus: Plautilla, - wife of Caracalla: Julia Paula: Macrinus: Annia Faustina, wife of - Heliogabalus: Julia Mammæa, wife of Verus: Julia Moesa: Lucilla junior: - Alexander Severus: Gordianus Cæsar: Balbinus: Sabina Tranquillina, wife - of Antonius Gordianus, emperor: Marcia Otacilla; Q. Herennius, a boy: - Hostilianus: Volusianus: Valerianus, a boy: Constantinus magnus the - Briton, of better work than was commonly in that age, as a few of his - medals were.—7. Divinities. Jupiter: Pallas: Apollo, a fine large bust: - Diana: Venus, like that of Medicis: Bacchus: Faunus: Fauna: Libera: - Libertas: Mercury Pantheon, made of different faces.</p> - - <p>II. STATUES. A queen of the Amazons defending herself from a horseman - in battle: Cupid, a man, breaking his bow: Clio, the muse, sitting: a - Faunus: these are of most admirable workmanship. Five statues reckoned - as ancient as any in the several parts of the world. Egypt, Isis - with her husband Osiris in Theban iron stone. Thrace, Jupiter Ammon - from the temple built by Sesostris, with a ram on his shoulders; it - is a very venerable piece. Asia Minor, Diana of Ephesus; the head, - hands and feet black, the rest of white marble. Phrygia, Cupid tied - to a tree; a Phrygian cap on his head. Lydia, Hercules wrestling - with Achelous. Paris with the Phrygian bonnet and shepherd’s coat of - skins. Saturn with an infant in his arms. The Egyptian Bacchus, of a - fine shape, carrying the young fat Greek Bacchus on his shoulder. A - shepherd playing on the flute. A Greek Bacchus. Flora. Silenus drunk, - with a club in his hand, fancying himself Hercules, supported by a - younger; a piece of most incomparable art. A boy dancing and playing - on music. Cupid holding the golden apple. A young Bacchus smiling. - Marcus Aurelius on horseback, made at Athens, small. The river Meander, - recumbent. A boy in an eager posture, catching at some live thing - on the ground. A coloss Hercules, six Attic cubits high, with three - apples in one hand. Cleopatra giving suck to Cæsarion her son, sitting. - Julia Pia Domna, wife of Septimius Severus, sitting. Livia, the wife - of Augustus, sitting. Manlia Scantilla, sitting. Attys the Phrygian, - engraved by Montfaucon without the head, which is here restored. Mark - Antony, a crocodile at his feet. Apollo. Ceres. Pomona. Andromeda. - Young Hercules with the serpents. Hercules, old, with his club. The - dwarf of Augustus.</p> - - <p>III. BASSO RELIEVO’S. The Story of Niobe, <i lang="la">alto relievo</i>, very - ancient: there are twenty figures; the marble is 2400 weight; seems to - have been a pannel in some temple of Apollo, or Diana. The story of - Meleager, being the side of a <em>sarcophagus</em>, seventeen figures, - <i lang="la">mezzo relievo</i>, 1500 weight, of an admirable taste. Curtius on - horseback, leaping into the gaping cavern, of most excellent work. M. - Aurelius and Faustina, <i lang="la">adversa capita</i>, fine work. Caracalla, - a three-quarters <i lang="la">relievo</i>. The three Graces. One on horseback, - cutting at a soldier defending himself under the horse. The ancient - manner of eating, Jupiter served by Hebe: he is accumbent. A frize of - a sea-triumph, small figures. Cleopatra with the asps in a covered - vase, <i lang="la">alto relievo</i>. Part of a frize from a temple of Neptune, - Naiades and Tritons. A <i lang="la">basso</i> from a temple of Bacchus, the - <i lang="la">thyrsus</i>, &c. A <i lang="la">basso relievo</i> on porphyry of Roemitalces - king of Thrace. A child stealing fruit from the altar through a mask.</p> - - <p>IV. MISCELLANIES. A nuptial vase, representing the ceremonies of - marriage. Ara Hammonis, a cube of white marble, on front the symbol - of Jupiter Hammon on a circular piece of the old Theban marble. Two<span class="pagenum" id="Page_187">187</span> - black porphyry pillars brought from Rome by the earl of Arundel. The - column of Egyptian granite, weighing near 7000 weight, from the ruins - of the temple of Venus genetrix, built by Julius Cæsar: this my lord - has set up in the front of the house. A very ancient altar of Bacchus, - adorned with <i lang="la">basso relievo’s</i>. An altar table of red Egyptian - granite, large, and four or five inches thick. An antique pavement, - four sorts of marble, of gradual light and shade. The antique picture - from the temple of Juno: it is in thick stucco. The <em>sarcophagus</em> - of Epaphroditus intire, finely carved with the history of Ceres. The - front of Claudia’s sepulchre, sister of Probus the emperor: her head is - joined with his. Eighty-five <em>termini</em> of antique marbles, busto’s - on seventy-two of them.</p> - - <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Icening-street.</span></div> - - <p>From the gate of <em>Sorbiodunum</em> the Icening-street goes from - north-east to south-west, by the name of Port lane, over the river Avon - at Stretford; then ascends the hill, and passes the united Nadre and - Willy near Bemerton, where the stony ford is still very perfect: then - it goes across my lord Pembroke’s horse-race course and hare-warren, - making a visto to M. Aurelius his equestrian figure in the park. If - the spirits and <em>genii</em> of the ancient Romans travel this way, no - doubt they will be surprised to find themselves so near the Capitol. - Then it traverses the brook at Fenny-Stretford, and so along the great - downs toward Cranburn chace: here it delights one to turn and survey - its direction towards <em>Sorbiodunum</em>, a sweet prospect; whether we - regard what share of it is due to nature, or what to art; and of the - latter sort, what is owing to the road, or what to the old city. As - it enters the chace there is a most remarkable <em>diverticulum</em>, - and which notoriously demonstrates it was begun from the south: for - here, as it came from thence across the woods, where its ridge is very - perfect, made of stone, it butts full upon the end of a vast valley, - very deep and of steep descent; where it was absolutely impracticable - to carry the road on in a strait line: the Roman surveyor therefore - wisely gave way to nature, turned the road side-ways along the end of - the valley, then with an equal angle carried it forward upon the upper - side of that valley in full direction to Old Sarum. That great and - wise people, though ignorant of submission, knew nature might be drawn - aside, but not directly opposed, especially in works that are to be - lasting: hence my intent was, to pursue this noble road as far as it - would carry me; and the pleasure one perceives in such a concomicant - is not to be imagined by any one but those that experience it: to - observe their methods in the conduct of such works, their artifices - and struggles between industry and the difficulties and diversities of - ground, of rivers, &c. and the continual presentment of somewhat worthy - of remark by the way, renders it short, and vastly entertaining; nor - is the mind ever at a loss for learned amusement. When it has passed - through the woods of Cranburn chace, and approaches Woodyates, you see - a great dike and <em>vallum</em> (Venndike) upon the edges of the hills - to the left by Pentridge, to which I suppose it gave name: this crosses - the Roman road, and then passes on the other side, upon the division - between the hundred. The large <em>vallum</em> here is southward, and it - runs upon the northern brink of the hills; whence I conjecture it a - division or fence thrown up by the <em>Belgæ</em> before Cæsar’s time. - I call this the second boundary of the <em>Belgæ</em>; two others are - already mentioned. I pleased myself with the hopes of observing the - Roman road running over it, as doubtless it did originally: but just - at that instant both enter a lane, where every thing is disfigured - with the wearing away and reparations that have been made ever since. - Its high ridge is then inclosed within a pasture just at Woodyates, - then becomes the common road for half<span class="pagenum" id="Page_188">188</span> a mile, but immediately passes - forward upon a down, the road going off to the right. I continued - the Roman road for two or three mile, where it is rarely visited: - it is very beautiful, smooth on both sides, broad at top, the holes - remaining whence it was taken, with a ditch on each hand: it is made of - gravel, flint, or such stuff as happened in the way, most convenient - and lasting. There are vast numbers of Celtic barrows upon these - downs, just of such manner and shapes as those of Salisbury plain: - at the first and more considerable group I came to, there was a most - convincing evidence of the Roman road being made since the barrows: - two instances of this nature I gave in the last letter. One form of - these barrows, for distinction sake, I call Druids (for what reasons I - shall not stand here to dispute:) they are thus. A circle of about 100 - foot diameter, more or less, is inclosed with a ditch of a moderate - breadth and depth: on the outside of this ditch is a proportionate - <em>vallum</em>; in the centre of this inclosure is a small tump, where - the remains of the person are buried, sometimes two, sometimes three. - Now so it fell out, that the line of direction of the Roman road - necessarily carried it over part of one of these <em>tumuli</em>, and - some of the materials of the road are dug out of it: this has two - little tumps in its centre.</p> - - <p>It was now my business to look out for the station in Antoninus called - <em>Vindogladia</em>, mentioned in the last journey to be twelve mile - from <em>Sorbiodunum</em>. By this time I was come to a proper distance: - accordingly I found, at the end of this heath, the road which is all - along called Iclingdike, descended a valley where a brook crosses it, - from two villages called Gliffet. At All-Saints, or Lower Gliffet, - there was a small ale-house, and the only one hereabouts (the Rose:)<span class="sidenote smcap">Vindogladia.</span> - my old landlady, after some discourse preparatory, informed me that - at Boroston, a mile lower upon the river, had been an old city; and - that strangers had come out of their way on purpose to see it; that - ruins and foundations were there; that it had seven parish-churches, - which were beaten down in the war time; that many old coins had been - ploughed up when she was a girl, which the children commonly played - withal; but the case at present was plainly the same with that of old - Troy, described in the ballad upon her wall, where she showed me these - passionate verses,</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0">Waste lie those walls that were so good,</div> - <div class="i0">And corn now grows where Troy towers stood.</div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">This account, so natural, satisfied me that <em>Vindogladia</em> must - here be fixed, and Wimbornminster be robbed of that honour, where the - tide of antiquarians have hitherto carried it, for no other reason but - name sake; the distances and road being repugnant. I suppose the name - signifies the white river, or vale; <em>vint</em>, white; <em>gladh</em>, - a river; whence our glade, or valley where a river runs. This place - being not capable of affording me a proper mansion, I left the more - particular scrutiny of it for another opportunity.</p> - - <p>Hence I pursued the road on the opposite chalk-hill, where they have - dug it away to burn for lime, but much degenerate from Roman mortar in - strength: it was not long before I absolutely lost it in great woods - beyond Long Crechil; but by information I learnt that it passes the - Stour at Crayford bridge below Blandford, where I was obliged to take - up my nightly quarters. I was glad to gain the downy country again - westward of it, and still full of barrows of all sorts by clusters or - groups. I frequently observed on the sides of hills long divisions, - very strait, crossing one another with all<span class="pagenum" id="Page_189">189</span> kinds of angles: they - look like the balks or meres of ploughed lands, and are really made - of flint over-grown with turf: they are too small for ploughed lands, - unless of the most ancient Britons, who dealt little that way; but just - such like have I seen in what I always imagine British camps. Above the - town of Blandford is an odd intrenchment on a hill, a squarish work, - with others like the foundation of small towers: a barrow near it.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4"> - <div class="attr"><i>Vol. I. p. 81</i></div> - <div><b><i>A Roman Camp near Bere Regis</i> (Ibernium) <i>Dors<sup>r</sup> 9 Iun 1724.</i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_189.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div> - </figure> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Blandford.</div> - - <p>Blandford is a pretty town, pleasantly seated in a flexure of - the river, before charming meadows, and rich lands. Wood thrives - exceedingly here: indeed this country is a fine variety of downs, - woods, lawns, arable, pasture, and rich valleys; and an excellent air: - the dry easterly winds, the cold northern, and the western moisture, - are tempered by the warm southern saline breezes from the ocean, and - nearest the sun. The incredible number of barrows that over-spread - this country from the sea-side to North Wiltshire, persuade me a great - people inhabited here before the <em>Belgæ</em>, that came from Spain, - which we may call the <em>Albionites</em>: but it is not a time to - discourse of that. This year, wherever I travelled, I found the bloom - of the hedge-rows, and indeed all trees whatever, excessively luxuriant - beyond any thing I ever knew. In this part the <em>buck-thorn</em>, or - <i lang="la">rhamnus catharticus</i>, is very plentiful; and a traveller, if he - pleases, may swallow a dozen of the ripe berries, not without use. Near - the passage of the Icening-street at Crayford is Badbury, a vast Roman - camp, where antiquities have been found.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Wansdike.</div> - - <p>About three mile beyond this I found another ditch and rampart, which - I believe to be the first of the colony of the <em>Belgæ</em>; it has - indeed a rude ancient look; so that they made four of these boundaries - successively as their power enlarged, the last being Wansdike, - between North and South Wiltshire. By what I could see or learn, in - travelling over this intricate country, the Roman road passes upon a - division between Pimpern and Bere hundred to Bere; and that I reckon - a convenient distance for a station between <em>Vindogladia</em> and - Dorchester, being near the middle: on one side it is about thirteen - mile, on the other nine. Now in the last journey of Antoninus before - mentioned, immediately after <span class="sidenote smcap">Ibernium.</span><em>Vindogladia</em> follows <em>Durnovaria - M. P.</em> IX. Dorchester being very truly nine mile off this town Bere, - and which is a market-town too, but far otherwise as to Wimbornminster; - I doubt not but this is the true place designed in the Itinerary; but - that a town is slipped out of the copies. I think I have fortunately - discovered it in the famous Ravennas, by which we may have hopes of - restoring this journey to its original purity. That author mentions a - town next to <em>Bindogladia</em>, which he calls <em>Ibernium</em>: this - verily is our Bere. Mr. Baxter corrects it into <em>Ibelnium</em>, and - places it at Blandford, for no other reason, as I conceive, but because - he imagined it must necessarily be hereabouts. I was not a little - pleased when I found my notion highly confirmed by a great and elegant - <span class="sidenote">Ro. <i>Camp</i>.</span>Roman camp upon a hill near Bere, I think it is called Woodbury, where - a yearly fair is kept: <span class="sidenote">TAB. XLV 2d Vol.</span>this is between Bere and Milburn upon the - river: it is doubly intrenched, or rather a double camp one within - another. This town of Bere denominates the hundred too. In this case, - where a Roman camp, a road, and all distances concur, which in the - others are very abhorrent from reality, I imagine the reader will find - little difficulty in passing over to my sentiments. The town is called - <em>Bere Regis</em>, and the camp is the <em>Æstiva</em> to the town. Of - Dorchester I have spoken already, beyond which is the original of the - Icening-street: from thence I travelled along the southern coasts, in - order to come to the beginning of this seventh journey.</p> - - <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_190">190</span></p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Moriconium.</div> - - <p>Wareham is denominated from the passage or ford over the two rivers - between which it is situate, where now are bridges: this has been a - Roman town. A great square is taken in, with a very high <em>vallum</em> - of earth, and a deep ditch: there has been a castle by the water-side, - west of the bridge, built by William the Conqueror, perhaps upon the - Roman. It is an old corporation, now decayed, the sands obstructing the - passage of vessels; and Pool, being better seated, from a fisher’s town - has rose to be a rich flourishing sea-port, robbing this place. They - say here have been many parish-churches, and a mint. This is probably - the <em>Moriconium</em> of Ravennas, as Mr. Baxter asserts. I heard of - Roman coins being found here. This country is sandy for the most part, - as commonly toward the sea-coasts. I saw a ruinous religious house as - I came by the side of the river Frome. This haven is of a vast extent, - like a sea, having a narrow entry; an indulgent formation of Nature to - her beloved island of Great Britain. I saw vast stones lying loose upon - this sand, in some places, like the Wiltshire grey weathers. It is a - melancholy unpleasant view hereabouts for travellers, when they come - from the other delightful scenes of the better parts of Dorsetshire: - it is moory for the most part, full of ling or heath, as on all the - sea-coasts here, from the chalk-hills in Dorsetshire to those in - Sussex. Two rocks about Corf castle have an odd appearance hence.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Alauna.</div> - - <p>Wimburnminster is a small place, of no great trade: a large old church - with two towers; the middle one in the cross very old, and most of the - church before the time of the Conquest: this middle steeple had a spire - which fell down. The river Stour runs a little way south of the town, - through a large bridge; <em>sdour</em>, a <em>sibilus</em> put to the old - Celtic word. The river Alen in several divisions runs through the town, - which makes me think it to be the <em>Alauna</em> of Ravennas, put next - to <span class="sidenote smcap">Bolnelaunium.</span><i>Bolnelaunium</i>, which I conjecture to be Christ’s-church by the - sea-side, that being subsequent to <em>Moriconium</em>: that it was not - Pool, as Mr. Baxter places it, is plain from a reason just mentioned, - Pool being an upstart. Wimburnminster stands in a large extended - fruitful vale like a meadow, with much wood about it. These rivers - abound with fish. Here was a nunnery built anno 712, by Cuthburga - sister to king Ina. King Etheldred was buried here.</p> - - <p>From hence I went to Ringwood upon the river Avon, over a deep sandy - moor; which has ever been thought the <span class="sidenote smcap">Regnum.</span><em>Regnum</em> in the Itinerary, - and begins the <i lang="la">Iter septimum</i> of Antoninus.<span class="sidenote">TAB. XLVI. 2d Vol.</span> It is a large - thriving place, full of good new brick houses, seated by the side of a - great watery valley, the river dividing itself into several streams, - and frequently overflowing large quantities of the meadow: it seems - well calculated to have been an old British town: they deal pretty - much in leather here, and woollen manufactures of stockings, druggets, - narrow cloth. Roman discoveries I could make little; but the name and - distances seem to establish the matter: so I hastened through New - Forest, where I found it necessary to steer by the compass, as at sea. - They tell us at Wattonsford the memory of Tyrrel is still preserved, - as passing over there when he unawares shot William Rufus. The soil - is sand, gravel, stone, clay by parcels: these are pleasant solitudes - for a contemplative traveller, did not the intricacies of the roads - give one uneasiness. Here are whole acres of the most beautiful - <em>fox-gloves</em> that one can see, rising upon a strong stem, adorned - with numerous bell-flowers as high as one’s horse. Mr. Baxter has a - right notion of this name, signifying <i lang="la">lemurum manicæ</i>, from the - supposed fairies. I take these names, and foxes bells, and the like, - to be reliques of the Druids, who did great cures by them; for this - is a plant of powerful qualities, when prudently<span class="pagenum" id="Page_191">191</span> administered, - in a constitution that will bear it. I observe we derive the names of - very many plants from the old Celtic language, as I believe the Greeks - and Latins did likewise. The king’s house, as called still, was at - Lyndhurst: the duke of Bolton has a hunting-seat thereabouts. I rode - through an old camp in the midst of the forest: it is overgrown with - wood, seems to have been round: at bottom is a spring: no doubt but it - is a British <span class="sidenote">Br. <i>oppidum</i>.</span><em>oppidum</em>. You may see Southampton from thence. They - say the king was killed hereabouts. Here is a great plantation of young - oaks, for the use of the crown: a great deal of fine oak-timber left; - but the beech-trees are very stately and numerous.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>46·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <img src="images/i_190.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div> - <figcaption><i>Prospect of</i> Ringwood <i>14 June 1724 <span class="smcap">Regnum</span>.</i></figcaption> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_191"> - <div class="plateno"><i>83</i></div> - <img src="images/i_191.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div> - <div><b>Prospect of <span class="smcap">Winchester</span> from the South 9 Sep. 1723.<br> - <span class="allsmcap">VENTA</span> Belgarum.</b></div> - <div><a href="#t_191">See transcription</a></div> - </figure> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Arminis.</div> - - <p>Romsey was unquestionably a Roman town, and its present name shows as - much. The church is a noble old pile of architecture, arched with stone - in the form of a cross, with semi-circular chapels in the upper angles. - These churches, hereabouts called minsters, were doubtless built by - the Saxon kings as soon as they became christian: the manner of their - structure is much like those built by queen Helena in Palestine: at - the west end of it is a bit of an old wall, perhaps belonging to the - nunnery built here by king Edgar. I heard of a silver Roman coin found - here. This town is an old corporation, in situation extraordinary - pleasant, having woods, corn-fields, meadows, pastures, around it in - view: the river and rivulets, which are many, have a rapid course.</p> - - <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Venta Belgarum.</span></div> - - <p>Two miles before I came to Winchester, the downs of chalk begin - again with barrows upon them. I saw several double ones. The walls - of Winchester inclose a long square about 700 paces one way, 500 the - other: it stands on the western declivity of a hill,<span class="sidenote">TAB. LXXXIII.</span> the river running - below on the east. Many branches, and cuts of it too, pass through the - midst of the city, and render their gardens very pleasant: the walls - and gates, as repaired in times long after the Roman, and chiefly of - flint, are pretty intire; no doubt, built upon the old Roman. In the - higher part of the city is the castle, which overlooks the whole:<a id="FNanchor_138" href="#Footnote_138" class="fnanchor">[138]</a> - here is a famed round table, where king Arthur’s knights used to sit. I - saw some great ruins still left of the walls and towers that belonged - to it; but the main of it was pulled down when Sir Christopher Wren - projected the king’s palace there in king Charles the IId’s reign: - it fronts the west end of the cathedral. The houses in the town were - bought in order to make a street between both, which would have had a - noble effect. This palace is a large pile of building, and beautiful, - yet with all the plainness that was necessary to save an extravagant - expence, or that became a royal retirement: it fills up three sides - of a large square, so that the opening of the wings or front looks - over the city: three tier of windows, twenty-six in a row, fill up - every side externally, besides the fronton in the middle of each side, - composed of four Corinthian pilasters: a handsome balustrade runs - quite round the top: the inside of this open court is more elegant, - and enriched with portico’s, &c. the late duke of Tuscany gave some - fine marble pillars towards the adorning it. A great bridge was to - have been built across the foss in the principal front; and a garden, - park, &c. were to have been made before the back front: the citizens - entertain great hopes, that since the happy increase of the royal - family, this palace will be finished: it is of plain brick-work, but - the window-cases, fascias, cornice, &c. of good Portland stone. There - is a great old chapel near it. This place was the residence of the - potent kings of the West Saxons.</p> - - <p>The cathedral is a venerable and large pile: the tower in the middle - and transept are of ancienter work than the choir and the body. Inigo - Jones <span class="pagenum" id="Page_192">192</span>has erected a delicate screen of stone-work before the choir. - Here was the burial-place of many Saxon and Norman kings, whose remains - the impious soldiers in the civil wars threw against the painted glass: - they show too the tomb of king Lucius. Queen Mary was here married to - Philip of Spain: the chair used in that ceremony is still preserved. - In the body of the church is a very ancient font, with odd sculptures - round it. In the city is a pretty cross of Gothic workmanship, but ill - repaired. Without the southern gate is a stately fabric, the college, - erected and endowed by William of Wickham, bishop here, for education - of youth. There is good painted glass of imagery in the chapel windows: - in the middle of the cloysters is a strong stone building, the library, - well contrived to prevent fire: the school is a more modern structure, - handsome, with a very good statue of the founder over the door, made - by Cibber. This country is intirely chalk, whence I suppose the name - of <em>Venta</em>: the city is a genteel and pleasant place, and abounds - with even the elegancies of life. Beyond the river eastward is a high - hill, called St. Giles’s, from an hospital once there; now only some - ruins of it to be seen, and a church-yard, seeming to have been a - camp, beside the marks of bastions, and works of fortifications in the - modern stile. Here Waltheof, earl of Northumberland and Huntingdon, was - beheaded, by order of William I. whose body was carried to Crowland, - and asserted to have miraculous virtues.</p> - - <p>In digging the foundation of a house near the college, in a stone - coffin was found a stone set in a gold ring, with this inscription in - very old characters, supposed about the sixth century.</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza" lang="la"> - <div class="i0"><i>Duce domino comite fidele meo.</i></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">A mile to the south of Winchester is a magnificent hospital, called - Holy Cross, founded by bishop Blois: the church is in the form of a - cross, and has a large square tower. Over it, on the other side the - river, hangs a camp upon St. Catharine’s hill, with a <em>brachium</em> - reaching down to the water side, for convenience of that element. The - way between Winchester and Southampton we perceived plainly to be a - Roman road, especially as far as the chalk reached: then we came to a - forest where the soil is gravelly all the way.</p> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Southampton.</div> - - <p>Southampton was strongly walled about with very large stones, full of - those little white shells, like honey-combs, that grow upon the back - of oysters: this is a sort of stone extremely hard, and seems to be - gathered near the beach of the sea. These walls have many lunettes, and - towers, in some places doubly ditched; but the sea encompasses near - half the town: it was built in the time of king Edward III. I observe - they have a method of breaking the force of the waves here, by laying a - bank of sea-ore, as they call it: it is composed of long, slender, and - strong filaments, like pilled hemp, very tough and durable; I suppose - it is thrown up by the ocean: and this performs its work better than - walls of stone, or natural cliff. At the south-east corner, near the - quay, is a fort with some guns upon it, called the Tower: on one we saw - this inscription,</p> - - <div class="center"><i>Henricus</i> VIII. <i>Anglie, Franciæ</i> & <i>Hiberniæ rex,<br> - fidei defensor invictissimus f. f.</i><br> - MD. XXXXII. HR. VIII.</div> - - <p class="noindent">In the north-west corner was a strong castle with a mount, walled - about at top, as a keep: upon this a round stone tower, with a - winding ascent: the Anabaptists are about pulling it down, to build - a meeting-house. The main of this town consists of one broad street, - running through its length: <span class="pagenum" id="Page_193">193</span>there are many old religious ruins, - and great warehouses, cellars, store-houses, &c. but with their trade - gone to decay. It was a great sea-port not long since, and had the - sole privilege, by charter, of importing wine from France, till they - foolishly sold it to the city of London.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_193_1"> - <div class="plateno"><i>80</i></div> - <img src="images/i_193_1a.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="mb1"><b><span class="smcap">Portvs Magnvs</span> <i>12 Sep. 1723. Portchester</i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_193_1b.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley d.</i></div> - <figcaption><i>View in the</i> Port.</figcaption> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_193_2"> - <div class="plateno"><i>79</i></div> - <div><b><i>Prospect of</i> Southampton <i>from the East Sep 11. 1723.</i><br> - <span class="smcap small">Travsantvm</span></b></div> - <img src="images/i_193_2a.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="small mb1"><b>A. <i>S<sup>t</sup> Mary’s where the old</i> Trausantum <i>Stood</i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_193_2b.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley d.</i></div> - <figcaption><i>Prospect from</i> Portsmouth</figcaption> - </figure> - - <div class="sidenote smcap">Trausantum.</div> - - <p>The old Roman city stood more eastward, upon the banks of the river - Itching coming from Winchester, where now is a hamlet called St. - Mary’s. There is a handsome new church<span class="sidenote">TAB. LXXIX.</span> built upon the ruins of an old - one, which they say was burnt in some French wars: it is near the - present ferry and opposite to Bittern. Many antiquities have been found - upon the site of the old city. Likewise at Bittern was an old Roman - castle, surrounded by a ditch, into which the sea-water flowed: many - antiquities likewise have hence been produced, of which Mr. Camden - gives us an account. Perhaps the buildings on both sides the river - were comprehended under one name of <em>Trausantum</em>; therefore this - river must have been the <em>Antona</em>: it was ruined in the Danish - wars, and Southampton arose from its ashes. This is the place memorable - for the famous experiment of king Canute, who sitting upon the banks - of the river, crowned and in regal robes, commanded the tide not to - approach his footstool; but the ocean, like an unlimited monarch, was - as regardless of his menaces, as the Hellespont, of Xerxes his bridles - and fetters.</p> - - <p>Leaving this lesson of the perishing glory of monarchs and cities too, - we journeyed to Portsmouth, an entertaining sight of the maritime - majesty of Great Britain, in this point excelling the ancient Roman - grandeur. Over a moory common we passed by Fareham, and by Portchester, - a castle made out of a Roman city. We have little reason to doubt that - this is the <span class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Portus Magnus.</span></span><i lang="la">portus magnus</i> of Ptolemy, as it deserves to be - called, where a thousand sail of the biggest ships may ride secure: the - mouth of it is not so broad, as the Thames at Westminster, and that - secured by numerous forts; on Gosport side, <span class="sidenote">TAB. LXXX.</span>Charles fort, James fort, - Borough fort, which name seems to intimate a Roman citadel formerly - there; Blockhouse fort, which has a platform of above twenty great guns - level with the water: and on the other side, by Portsmouth, Southsea - castle, built by Henry VIII. of a like model with those I saw near Deal - upon the Kentish shore.</p> - - <p>Portsmouth is the most regular fortification, of the modern manner, - which we have in England;<span class="sidenote">TAB. LXXIX.</span> a curious sight to those that have not been - out of it. The government has bought more ground lately for additional - works, and no doubt it is capable of being made impregnable; for - a shallow water may be brought quite round it. Here is one of the - greatest arsenals for the royal navy: above thirty men of war of the - highest rates lie here, capable of being fitted out in less than a - fortnight; among them, the Royal William, that can play off at once 120 - battering-rams of brass, infinitely more forceable than that famous - one Titus used against the walls of Jerusalem. The yards, the docks, - the store-houses, where all their furniture is laid up in the exactest - order, so that the men can go in the dark and fetch out any individual, - is a sight beyond imagination. The immense quantities of cables, - masts and tackle, of great guns, bullets, bombs, carcasses, mortars, - granado’s, &c. these of all sorts and sizes, and the regular methods - they are reposited in and distinguished by, are prodigious, and no - where to be equalled but in England; for when I was informed that this - place is outdone, in all the particulars, both at Chatham and Plymouth, - there was no more room left for wonder. The Royal William’s mast is a - noble piece of timber 124 foot long, and this is only the bottom part - of the main mast; it is 36 inches diameter, clear timber: its lantern - is like a summer-house: its great anchor and all accoutrements are - equally astonishing.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_194">194</span> The rope-house is 870 foot long, one continued - room, almost a quarter of a mile: we chanced to have the pleasure of - seeing a great cable made here; it requires 100 men to work at it, and - so hard the labour, that they can work but four hours in a day. The - least complement of men continually employed in the yard is a thousand, - and that but barely sufficient ordinarily to keep the naval affairs - in good repair. But I have talked enough of matters so much out of my - sphere. I was sorry to leave this amazing scene of naval grandeur, with - the shocking sight of a wretched statue of king William, gilt indeed in - an extraordinary manner; but of all the bad works in this fort, I have - seen, it is the very last. From Portsmouth there is a fine prospect of - the isle of Wight, famous for Vespasian’s first attempts in subduing - the southern parts of Britain: its beautiful elevations, some woody, - some downy, its towns, havens and white cliffs, at this distance, seem - to persuade one it is an epitome of Great Britain, as that of the - world; or that Nature made it as an essay, or copy, of her greater and - more finished work. Before I leave Portsmouth I shall set down this - catalogue of the British fleet as it stands this present year, given - me by an officer; by which some people, fond of magnifying the mimic - endeavours of some other powers, may calculate, if they please, when - such will come up to rival it.</p> - - <table class="small"> - <thead> - <tr> - <th>Rates.</th> - <th>Guns.</th> - <th>N<sup>o</sup> of each rate.</th> - <th>Complement of<br>men to each.</th> - </tr> - </thead> - <tbody> - <tr> - <td><i>1st.</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div>100</div></td> - <td class="tdr"><div>7</div></td> - <td class="tdr"><div style="margin-right: 3.5em;">780</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>2d.</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div>90</div></td> - <td class="tdr"><div>13</div></td> - <td class="tdr"><div style="margin-right: 3.5em;">680</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td rowspan="2"><i>3d.</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div>80</div></td> - <td class="tdr"><div>16</div></td> - <td class="tdr"><div style="margin-right: 3.5em;">520</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>70</div></td> - <td class="tdr"><div>24</div></td> - <td class="tdr"><div style="margin-right: 3.5em;">440</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div>———</div></td> - <td> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div style="margin-right: 1.5em;">60</div></td> - <td> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div>———</div></td> - <td> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td rowspan="2"><i>4th.</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div>60</div></td> - <td class="tdr"><div>18</div></td> - <td class="tdr"><div style="margin-right: 3.5em;">365</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>50</div></td> - <td class="tdr"><div>46</div></td> - <td class="tdr"><div style="margin-right: 3.5em;">280</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div>———</div></td> - <td> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div style="margin-right: 1.5em;">124</div></td> - <td> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div>———</div></td> - <td> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td rowspan="2"><i>5th.</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div>40</div></td> - <td class="tdr"><div>24</div></td> - <td class="tdr"><div style="margin-right: 3.5em;">190</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>30</div></td> - <td class="tdr"><div>4</div></td> - <td class="tdr"><div style="margin-right: 3.5em;">155</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div>———</div></td> - <td> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div style="margin-right: 1.5em;">152</div></td> - <td> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div>———</div></td> - <td> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>6th.</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div>20</div></td> - <td class="tdr"><div>27</div></td> - <td class="tdr"><div style="margin-right: 3.5em;">130</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div>———</div></td> - <td class="tdr"><div style="margin-right: 3.5em;">———</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div style="margin-right: 1.5em;">179</div></td> - <td class="tdr"><div style="margin-right: 3.5em;">3540</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div>———</div></td> - <td class="tdr"><div style="margin-right: 3.5em;">———</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="3"> </td> - <td class="tdc"><div>The whole complement<br>of men 55720.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> </td> - <td>Fire-ships</td> - <td class="tdr"><div>3</div></td> - <td> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> </td> - <td>Bombs</td> - <td class="tdr"><div>3</div></td> - <td> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> </td> - <td>Sloops</td> - <td class="tdr"><div>13</div></td> - <td> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> </td> - <td>Yachts</td> - <td class="tdr"><div>12</div></td> - <td> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> </td> - <td>Hoys</td> - <td class="tdr"><div>11</div></td> - <td> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> </td> - <td>Smacks</td> - <td class="tdr"><div>2</div></td> - <td> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> </td> - <td>Hulks</td> - <td class="tdr"><div>7</div></td> - <td> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> </td> - <td>Store-ships</td> - <td class="tdr"><div>1</div></td> - <td> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> </td> - <td>Hospital-ships</td> - <td class="tdr"><div>1</div></td> - <td> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div>———</div></td> - <td> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div style="margin-right: 1.5em;">232</div></td> - <td> </td> - </tr> - </tbody> - </table> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_195_1"> - <div class="plateno"><i>82</i></div> - <div><b><i>Prospect of</i> Portsmouth, <i>the Isle of Wight Gosport, Portchester &c. Sep. 13. 1723.</i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_195_1a.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="small mb1"><b>A. <i>The Isle of Wight.</i> B. <i>Southsea Castle.</i> D. <i>Portsmouth.</i> E. <i>Landgard fort.</i> - F. <i>Gosport.</i> G. <i>Portchester.</i> H. <i>Portsdown hill.</i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_195_1b.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attr"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div> - <figcaption class="small"><i>Prospect of</i> Chichester <i>Sep. 14. 1723.</i></figcaption> - </figure> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp92 mb4" id="i_195_2"> - <div class="plateno"><i>81</i></div> - <div><b><span class="smcap">Mantantonis</span><br> - <i>Sep. 14. 1723.</i></b></div> - <img class="mt2" src="images/i_195_2.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="left"> - <ol class="alpha left inline small"> - <li><i>Where the Roman Temple stood</i></li> - <li><i>Grey-fryers</i></li> - <li><i>Black fryers</i></li> - <li><i>S<sup>t</sup>. Marys Hospital</i></li> - </ol> - </div> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley Delin.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>Parker Sculp<sup>t</sup>.</i></div> - </figure> - - <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_195">195</span></p> - - <p>I observed, the great quantity of water and ditches about this place - is apt to render it aguish. The reader will excuse me from giving - any description of the fortifications here, for the same reason that - I did not offer to draw any thing; but passing by draw-bridges, - bastions, gates, fosses, counterscarps, &c. we repeated our steps to - the Ports-down hills, which are of chalk, and at a reasonable distance - from the shore extend themselves into Sussex; leaving to the south a - less elevated, woody, and rich country. Here we turned to admire the - delightful view of the ground we had passed, and that we were going to: - the ports, creeks, bays, the ocean, the castles fixt, and those moving - on the water, the isle of Wight in its full extent, all lay before us, - and under the eye, as in a map: Portchester, Gosport, which is a very - considerable town, Portsmouth, Southampton, Chichester, and all the - sea-coast from Portland isle to the <span class="sidenote">TAB. LXXXII.</span>Sussex coasts, were taken in at one - ken. I took a little sketch of it in passing, in <a href="#i_195_1">plate 82</a>.</p> - - <p>We found some of the Roman way upon this ridge, which I suppose went - through Fareham and Havant, between <em>Trausantum</em> and Chichester, - with a vicinal turning out to Portchester: it goes east and west. - We passed by a large long barrow. We were led to Chichester by the - fame of a most ancient inscription lately discovered there, whereof - transcripts were handed about, that appeared not exact enough: this has - revived the lustre of Chichester; for, though the termination of its - name, and a Roman road called Stane-street coming to it, is evidence - sufficient of its being a Roman city, yet none has positively affirmed - it, because we have not hitherto been able to assign it a name. Mr. - Camden satisfied himself that it owed its name and foundation to Cissa, - the South-Saxon king. It is probable the city was destroyed soon after - the Romans evacuated this kingdom, either in the wars between the - Britons and first Saxons, or by the plundering Danes, who ravaged all - the sea-coasts; so that its name was utterly forgot: but Cissa becoming - master of this country, and there chusing to fix his seat, repaired - the ancient castle or walls, whose <em>vestigia</em> were of too lasting - materials wholly to have lost the appearance of their workmanship: then - it was natural enough to prefix his name to this Roman termination, by - which the Saxons always called castles of the Romans: or it might be - simply called <em>caster</em>, <em>chester</em>, as was frequent in other - places, till he restored it; and then it took his name, importing - <em>Cissa’s chester</em>: but had it been originally founded by him, it - would never have assumed that adjunct.</p> - - <div class="sidenote">TAB. LXXXI.</div> - - <p>I doubt not but the walls of the present city are built upon the - old Roman foundations chiefly. It is of a roundish form, the river - running under part of the walls. Two principal streets cross it at - right angles upon the cardinal points, where stands a curious cross - erected by bishop Read. The church takes up one of these quadrants: it - is remarkable for two side-ailes on both sides, and the pictures of - all the kings and queens of England since Cissa, which are hung upon - the wall of the southern transept; all the bishops on the opposite - wall. Eastward of the cathedral is a place called the <em>Pallant</em>, - which seems derived from the Latin <em>palatium</em>. In the middle - of North-street was dug up this memorable inscription, which I have - printed in <a href="#i_148_1">plate 49</a>. To your explication of it nothing can be added: - the reader and myself will be obliged to you for the leave you have - given me here to insert it. It was happy we took great care in - transcribing the letters; for, since it has been in the possession - of the duke of Richmond, I hear a workman, who pretended to set the - fragments together, has defaced it.</p> - - <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_196">196</span></p> - - <h3><i>An Account of a</i> ROMAN INSCRIPTION <i>found at</i> Chichester.<br> - <i>By</i> <span class="smcap">Roger Gale</span>, <i>Esq.</i></h3> - - <div class="sidenote">TAB. XLIX.</div> - - <p class="drop-cap">THIS inscription, as curious as any that has yet been discovered in - Britain, was found, the beginning of last April, at Chichester, in - digging a cellar under the corner house of St. Martin’s lane, on the - north side, as it comes into North-street. It lay about four foot - under ground, with the face upwards: by which it had the misfortune - to receive a great deal of damage from the picks of the labourers, as - they endeavoured to raise it; for, besides the defacing of several - letters, what was here disinterred of the stone was broke into four - pieces: the other part of it, still wanting, is, in all probability, - buried under the next house, and will not be brought to light till - that happens to be rebuilt. The inscription is cut upon a grey Sussex - marble, the length of which was six Roman feet, as may be conjectured - by measuring it from the middle of the word TEMPLVM to that end of it - which is intire, and is not altogether three foot English, from the - point mentioned: the breadth of it is 2 and ¾ of the same feet; the - letters beautifully and exactly drawn; those in the two first lines - three inches long, and the rest 2¼.</p> - - <p>Being at Chichester in September last with Dr. Stukeley, we took an - accurate view of this marble, which is now fixed in the wall under - a window within the house where it was found; and, that we might be - as sure of the true reading as possible, wherever the letters were - defaced, we impressed a paper with a wet sponge into them, and by that - means found those in the fifth line to have been as we have expressed - them above, and not as in other copies that have been handed about of - this inscription.</p> - - <p>The only letter wanting in the first line is an N before EPTVNO, and - so no difficulty in reading that. As to the second, though it was more - usual, in inscriptions of this nature, to express the donation by the - word SACRVM only, referring to the <em>temple</em>, or <em>altar</em>, - dedicated; yet we have so many instances, in Gruter’s <cite>Corpus - Inscriptionum</cite>, of TEMPLVM and ARAM also cut on the stones, that - there is not the least occasion to say any thing farther upon that - point.</p> - - <p>The third line can be no other way filled up, than as I have done it by - the pricked letters: I must own, however, that I have had some scruple - about the phrase of DOMVS DIVINA, the same thing as DOMVS AVGVSTA, the - <em>imperial family</em>; which I cannot say occurs, with any certainty - of the time it was used in, before the reign of Antoninus Pius, from - whom, down to Constantine the Great, it is very frequently met with in - inscriptions. This kept me some time in suspence, whether this found - at Chichester could be of so early a date as the time of Claudius: but - as we find several inscriptions in Gruter with those words in them, - or I. H. D. D. <i lang="la">In Honorem Domus Divinæ</i>, which is much the same - thing, without any mark of the time when they were cut, they may have - been before the reign of Antoninus Pius, and then only came into more - general use; and as the time that Cogidunus lived in, will not let - this be of a later standing, I think we may offer it as an authority - for the use of this piece of flattery to the emperors long before that - excellent prince came to the purple.</p> - - <p>The third line, as I believe, was EX AVCTORITATE. TIB. CLAVD. and - the fourth COGIDVBNI. R. LEG. &c. that is, <i lang="la">Ex auctoritate Tiberii - Claudii Cogidubni regis, legati Augusti in Britannia</i>; for the - following reasons: we are informed by Tacitus, <i lang="la">in vita Agricolæ</i>, - <i>cap.</i> 14. that after<span class="pagenum" id="Page_197">197</span> Britain had been reduced to a Roman - province by the successful arms of Aulus Plautius, and Ostorius - Scapula, under the emperor Claudius, <i lang="la">Quædam civitates</i> Cogiduno - Regi <i lang="la">erant donatæ, is ad nostram usque memoriam fidissimus remansit, - vetere ac jam pridem recepta Populi Romani consuetudine ut haberet - instrumenta servitutis</i> & Reges. This <em>Cogidunus</em> seems to be - the same person as <em>Cogidubnus</em> in our inscription, the letter - B in the third syllable making little or no difference in the word, - especially if pronounced soft, as it ought to be, like a V consonant.</p> - - <p>It is so well known to have been the custom of the Roman <em>Liberti</em> - and <em>Clientes</em>, to take the names of their patrons and - benefactors, it would be wasting of time to prove the constant usage of - that practice. Now, as this <em>Cogidubnus</em>, who in all probability - was a petty prince of that part of the <em>Dobuni</em> which had - submitted to Claudius, and one that continued many years faithful to - him and the Romans, (<i lang="la">vide Tacit. ut supra</i>) had given him the - government of some part of the island by that emperor, nothing could be - more grateful in regard to Claudius, nor more honourable to himself, - after he was <em>romanised</em>, than to take the names of a benefactor - to whom he was indebted for his kingdom, and so call himself TIBERIVS - CLAVDIVS COGIDVBNVS.</p> - - <p>I suppose him to have been a <em>Regulus</em> of the <em>Dobuni</em>; - because we are told by Dion Cassius (<em>in lib.</em> lx.) that Aulus - Plautius having put to flight Cataratacus and <em>Togodumnus</em>, - sons of Cunobelin, part of the <em>Boduni</em> (the same people as the - <em>Dobuni</em>) who were subject to the <em>Catuellani</em>, submitted - to the Romans; and the name <em>Cogidubnus</em>, or <em>Cogiduvnus</em>, - <span class="antiqua">Coc o Dubn</span>, or <span class="antiqua">Duvn</span>, (<i lang="la">vid. Baxteri Glossar. in - verbis</i> Cogidumnus, & Dobuni) signifying expresly in the British - language PRINCEPS DOBVNORVM, seems to put the matter out of all doubt.</p> - - <p>How far his territories extended, it is impossible to define. Bishop - Stillingfleet, <cite>Orig. Britan.</cite> p. 63. supposes them to have - lain in Surrey and Sussex. Sussex certainly was part of them, since - the temple mentioned in this inscription was erected in it by his - authority; and it is not unlikely, that besides the <em>Regni</em>, - who were the people of those two counties, he might have that part - of the <em>Dobuni</em> which had submitted to the Romans, and seems to - have been his own principality, together with the <em>Ancalites</em>, - <em>Bibroci</em> and <em>Segontiaci</em>, whose countries lay between - the <em>Dobuni</em> and the <em>Regni</em>, bestowed upon him; the words - <i lang="la">civitates quædam</i>, in Tacitus, not importing no more than some - <em>few towns</em>, but <em>several people</em>; the word <em>civitas</em> - always signifying a <em>people</em> in that historian.</p> - - <p>Before I proceed any farther, it will not be amiss to observe, that - <em>Togodumnus</em> and <em>Cogidubnus</em>, though their names are so - much alike, were two distinct persons: the first was son of Cunobelin, - king of the <em>Trinobantes</em>, vanquished and killed in battle by - Aulus Plautius; the second, a prince that submitted to Ostorius - Scapula, and continued in his fidelity to the Romans, <i lang="la">in nostram - usque memoriam</i>, says Tacitus, who was born at the latter end of - Claudius’s reign; so that <em>Togodumnus</em> was probably dead before - <em>Cogidubnus</em> had his government conferred upon him.</p> - - <p>I call it his government; for though, by the letter ·R· standing in the - inscription with a point both before and after it, by which it plainly - denotes an intire word of itself, it may seem that it was intended for - COGIDVBNI REGIS, and I believe was so in respect of his <em>quondam</em> - dignity, yet it is evident, that he had condescended to take the title - of LEGATVS AVGVSTI IN BRITANNIA from Claudius: and that too must have - been only over those people that he had given him the government of; - Aulus Plautius, Ostorius Scapula, Didius Gallus, Avitus Veranius, - and Suetonius<span class="pagenum" id="Page_198">198</span> Paullinus, having the supreme command successively - about this time in this island, the second and last of which are - called expresly <em>Legati</em> by Tacitus, <em>lib.</em> xii. <em>Ann. - cap.</em> 23. & <em>Vit. Agric. cap.</em> 15. The <em>Legati Cæsaris</em>, - or <em>Augusti,</em> were those <i lang="la">qui Cæsaribus subditas regebant - Provincias</i>.</p> - - <p>The sixth line has lost at the beginning the letters COLLE; but so much - remains of the word, as makes it to have been indubitably, when intire, - COLLEGIVM; and the following letters are an abbreviation of FABRORVM.</p> - - <p>These colleges of artificers were very ancient at Rome, as ancient as - their second king Numa Pompilius, if we may believe Plutarch (<cite>in - vit. Numæ</cite>) who tells us, that the people were divided by him into - what we at this day call <em>Companies of Tradesmen</em>, and mentions - the Τέκτονες or <em>Fabri</em> among them; though Floras (<i>lib.</i> - i. <i>cap.</i> 6.) says, that <em>Populus Romanus a</em> Servio Tullio - <i lang="la">relatus suit in Censum, digestus in Classes, Curiis atque</i> - Collegiis <i lang="la">distributus</i>. But as the power of the Romans extended - itself, it carried the arts of that great people along with it, and - improved the nations that it subdued, by civilizing, and teaching - them the use of whatever was necessary or advantageous among their - conquerors; from which most wise and generous disposition, among other - beneficial institutions, we find these <em>Collegia</em> to have been - established in every part of the empire, from the frequent mention - of them in the inscriptions collected by Gruter, Spon, and other - antiquaries.</p> - - <p>Several sorts of workmen were included under the name of <em>Fabri</em>, - particularly all those that were concerned in any kind of building; - whence we meet with the <em>Fabri Ferrarii</em>, <em>Lignarii</em>, - <em>Tignarii</em>, <em>Materiarii</em>, <em>Navales</em>, and others: the - last named may have been the authors of dedicating this temple to - Neptune, having so near a relation to the sea, from which the city - of Chichester is at so small a distance, that perhaps that arm of it - which still comes up within two miles of its walls, might formerly - have washed them. The rest of the fraternity might very well pay the - same devotion to Minerva, the Goddess of all arts and sciences, and - patroness of the Dædalian profession.</p> - - <p>As no less than five letters are wanting at the beginning of the sixth - line, there cannot be fewer lost at the beginning of the seventh, - where the stone is more broke away than above; so that probably there - were six when it was perfect. What we have left of them is only the - top of an S: I will not therefore take upon me to affirm any thing - as to the reading of them, which is so intirely defaced: perhaps - it was A. SACR. S. <i lang="la">a sacris sunt</i>; perhaps it was HONOR. S. - <i lang="la">Honorati sunt</i>: as to the former, we find these <em>Collegia</em> - had their <em>Sacerdotes</em>; therefore <i lang="la">Qui a sacris sunt</i>, which - is found in inscriptions, (<cite>vid. Grut. Corp.</cite> xxix. 8. cxxi. - <span class="smcap">i. dcxxxii. i.</span>) would be no improper term to express them; - or it might have been SACER. S. <em>sacerdotes sunt</em>, since we find - such mentioned in the following inscriptions. <cite>Spon. Miscell. Erud. - Antiq.</cite> p. 58.</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza gesperrt1" lang="la"> - <div class="i0">MAVORTI SACRVM</div> - <div class="i0">HOC SIGNVM</div> - <div class="i0">RESTIT _ _ _ _ _</div> - <div class="i0">COLL. FABR. ARI</div> - <div class="i0">CINORVM ANTIQVISS.</div> - <div class="i0">VETVSTATE</div> - <div class="i0">DILAPSVM ET</div> - <div class="i0">REFECER. CVR. L. LVCILIVS</div> - <div class="i0">LATINVS PROC. R. P. ARIC.</div> - <div class="i0">ET T. SEXTIVS MAGGIVS</div> - <div class="i0">SACER. COLL. EIVSD.</div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_199">199</span></p> - - <p lang="la"><i>Mavorti sacrum hoc Signum restituit Collegium</i> Fabrorum - Aricinorum <i>Antiquissimum, vetustate dilapsum, & refecerunt. Curabant - Lucius Lucilius Latinus, Procurator Reipublicæ Aricinorum, & Titus - Sextius Maggius</i> Sacerdos <i>Collegii ejusdem</i>,</p> - - <p>Ibid. p. 64.</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza gesperrt1" lang="la"> - <div class="i0">L. TERTENI AMANTI</div> - <div class="i0">SACER. COLL. LOTORVM</div> - <div class="i0">IIVIR. C. SARTIVS C. F.</div> - <div class="i0">ITERINVS ET L. ALLIVS</div> - <div class="i0">PETELINVS D. D.</div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p><i lang="la">Lucius Tertenius Amantius</i> Sacerdos <i>Collegii Lotorum, Duumviri - Caius Sartius, Caii Filius, Iterinus, & Lucius Allius Petelinus - Dedicaverunt</i>.</p> - - <p>As to the latter, those members of the college that had passed through - the chief Offices of it, as that of <em>Præfectus</em>, or <em>Magister - quinquennalis</em>, had the title of HONORATI conferred upon them: you - have several of these HONORATI mentioned in Gruter, particularly a - long catalogue of them <i lang="la">in Collegio Fabrorum Tignariorum</i>, p. - <span class="smcap">cclxviii. i.</span> and in Reinesius’s <em>Syntagma</em>, p. 605. there - is an inscription,</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza" lang="la"> - <div class="i0 gesperrt1">EPAGATHO TVRANNO</div> - <div class="i0 gesperrt1">HONORATO COLLEGI</div> - <div class="i0 gesperrt1">FABRVM TIGNARIORVM</div> - <div class="i0"><span class="gesperrt1">ROMANENSIVM </span><i>&c.</i></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p>So that the vacuity in our inscription may very well have been filled - up with one or other of these words; and the three next letters that - follow them, D. S. D. <i lang="la">de suo dedicaverunt</i>, will agree with - either of them, and what precedes them.</p> - - <p>The last line has been PVDENTE PVDENTINI FILio: but there must have - been a letter or two of the <em>prænomen</em> at the beginning of it, - unless it was shorter than the rest at that, as well as at the latter - end of it: and from what I have said, the whole may be read as follows:</p> - - <blockquote> - <p><i lang="la">Neptuno & Minervæ Templum pro Salute Domus Divinæ, ex Auctoritate - Tiberii Claudii Cogidubni Regis, Legati Augusti in Brittanniâ, - Collegium Fabrorum, & Qui in eo a Sacris [or Honorati] sunt, De suo - Dedicaverunt, Donante aream Pudente Pudentini Filio.</i></p> - - <p>Chichester, by this inscription found at it, must have been a town of - eminence very soon after the Romans had settled here, and in process - of time seems to have been much frequented, by the Roman roads, still - visible, that terminate here from Portsmouth, Midhurst, and Arundel; - though, what is very strange, we have no Roman name now for it. I once - thought it might have put in its claim for <em>Anderida</em>, which our - antiquaries have not yet agreed to fix any where, being situated, very - near, both to the <em>Sylva Anderida</em>, and the <em>southern Coast</em> - of the island, the two properties of that city: <i>vid.</i> Camb. Brit. - and Somner’s Roman Ports and Forts. But Henry of Huntingdon, who lived - in the time of Henry II. telling us, that the Saxons so destroyed - <em>Andredecester</em>, that <i lang="la">Nunquam postea reædificata fuit, & locus - tantum quasi nobilissimæ urbis transeuntibus ostenditur desolatus</i>, - pag. 312. (<i>Vid.</i> Dr. Tabor’s Discourse of <em>Anderida</em>, - Philos. Transact. N<sup>o</sup> 356.) it could not be Chichester; for that was - not only rebuilt before his time, but was a place of such note, that - when the bishops, soon after the Conquest, anno Dom. 1076. removed - their churches from small decayed towns, where<span class="pagenum" id="Page_200">200</span> several of them were - then seated, <i lang="la">in urbes celebriores</i>, Stigand, then bishop of - Selsey, settled his episcopal chair at that place.</p> - - <p>I shall conclude with observing, that when this inscription was dug - up, there were also two walls of stone discovered close by it, three - foot thick each, one running north, the other east, and joining in an - angle, as the North-street and St. Martin’s lane now turn, which, in - all probability, were part of the foundations of the temple mentioned - on the marble.</p> - - <div class="right">October 31. 1723.</div> - </blockquote> - - <p>To this judicious elucidation of the inscription I have nothing to - add, but that it seems to me probable enough, that Pudens, mentioned - therein to have given the ground upon which the temple was built, was - that Aulus Pudens who married the famous British lady Claudia Rufina, - celebrated for her wit, beauty and eloquence. There is room enough in - the stone to suppose the letter A at least, as his <em>prænomen</em> was - in that part which is lost. <i lang="la">Moncæius de incunab. regiis eccles. - christ. vet. Britann.</i> thinks Claudia, mentioned by St. Paul,<a id="FNanchor_139" href="#Footnote_139" class="fnanchor">[139]</a> - 2 Tim. iv. 21. was daughter of the renowned Caratacus, converted to - christianity by him, and married to this Pudens, a Roman Senator. But - this may be judged rather too early, on account of the time of St. - Paul’s death, and that wherein Martial lived, who wrote two elegant - epigrams upon her; and we may with more likelihood conclude her to be - the daughter of our <em>Cogidunus</em>, who lived to Tacitus his time, - which was the same as Martial’s: and there is equal reason for the name - of Claudia to be given her in honour of Claudius the emperor, as for - the king her father taking the same upon himself, as appears in this - inscription. Martial’s first epigram upon her is the 13th in his IV. - <i>L.</i> thus,</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza" lang="la"> - <div class="i0"><i>Claudia, Rufe, meo nupsit peregrina Pudenti</i></div> - <div class="i2"><i>Macte esto tædis o hymenæe tuis</i> &c.</div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">We may well imagine this was wrote in the reign of Domitian, by the - first epigram in that book being in honour of that emperor’s birth day; - and sixteen years at least must have passed between that and the time - of St. Paul’s death, which happened the last year of Nero. The other - epigram is the 54th of XI. <i>L.</i></p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza" lang="la"> - <div class="i0"><i>Claudia cœruleis cum sit Rufina Britannis</i></div> - <div class="i2"><i>Edita, cur Latiæ pectora plebis habet?</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Quale decus formæ! Romanam credere matres</i></div> - <div class="i2"><i>Italides possunt, Atthides esse suam.</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Dî bene, quod sancto peperit fæcunda marito</i></div> - <div class="i2"><i>Quot sperat generos, quotque puella nurus.</i></div> - <div class="i0"><i>Sic placeat superis, ut conjuge gaudeat uno,</i></div> - <div class="i2"><i>Et semper natis gaudeat illa tribus.</i></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <p class="noindent">We may conclude, that if she had been of age sufficient to be converted - by St. Paul, she would about this time have been too old to have - children, and be accounted beautiful. But times and all circumstances - conspire sufficiently to make her the daughter of <em>Cogidunus</em>.</p> - - <p>Famous was the contest between Neptune and Minerva in naming the city - of Athens, which they referred to the umpire of Apollo: he, to avoid - the <em>odium</em> of appearing partial on either side, left it to the - decision of mortal men, as Varro tells us: howsoever, these two deities - are happily reconciled in a joint partnership of the dedication of this - temple. The antiquaries are still <span class="pagenum" id="Page_201">201</span>at variance about the ancient name - of this city. Therefore, Sir, that I may not be wholly an unworthy - fellow-traveller, <i lang="la">passibus etsi longe inequalibus</i>, I shall - venture, if Minerva is not averse, to offer my thoughts towards a - recovery of the Roman denomination of Chichester, which appears plainly - to have been an eminent and early station: though the journey of - Antoninus reaches it not, yet it would be strange if Ravennas should - have passed it by, who is very particular in this part of the island.</p> - - <p>I observe the river this city stands upon is called <em>Lavant</em>. - There are three towns synonymous higher up, East, West, and Middle - Lavant; whence I think we may conclude, that the true and original - name of the river was <em>Antona</em>, not an uncommon appellative of - such in the Celtic dialect: Mr. Baxter, voce <em>Anderida</em>, calls - it <em>Ant</em>. Likewise a town called <em>Hampnet</em> stands upon - it, which seems some corruption of <em>Antona</em>. Now there are two - rivers of this name falling into the southern ocean; that which we - spoke of lately, the Itchin, running by <em>Trausantum</em>; and this - we are upon: therefore it appears natural and necessary that they - should some way or other be distinguished from one another: the former - <em>Trausantum</em>, Mr. Baxter, voce <em>Antona</em>, says signifies - the farther <em>Antona</em>; and in this same sense, but in a later - manner, Ninius calls it <em>Trahannon</em>; as our monk Ravennas, - <em>Onna</em>, by a softer pronunciation. Our river then must be the - hither or nearer <em>Antona</em>, however actually distinguished; - which we must find out. Looking into that author generally called - <em>Anonymus</em>, though I suppose his true name is <em>Ravennas</em>, as - born there, (it being at that time the method of the ecclesiastics to - take the sirname of their native towns) he thus mentions some cities - hereabouts: <em>Caleba Atrebatum</em>, <em>Anderesio</em>, <em>Miba</em>, - <span class="sidenote smcap">Mantantonis.</span><em>Mutuantonis</em>, <em>Lemanis</em>, <em>Dubris</em>, <i>&c.</i> Now I - imagine <em>Mutuantonis</em> is the place here sought for. <span class="sidenote">TAB. LXXXI.</span>This author - probably transcribed these names from inspection of a map, sometimes - casting his eye along a road, sometimes a river, sea-coast or the like, - and sometimes <em>per saltum</em>: when he has been reciting many names - of cities in the inland parts as far as <em>Corinium Dobunorum</em>, - or Cirencester, he returns to the south-east part of the island, and - begins a new period, as above. Directly in his way to the sea-coasts - is <em>Caleba</em>, or Farnham, as I shall show in proper place: next - is <em>Anderida</em>; which cannot be this place, for the reason you - brought out of Henry of Huntingdon: no doubt it is somewhere upon the - Sussex coast; but its particular site I shall not take upon me now to - determine. <em>Miba</em> is with good reason thought to be Midhurst; - then very naturally follows <em>Mutuantonis</em>, our Chichester: hence - he takes his route eastward towards <em>Lemanis</em>, <em>Dubris</em>, - <i>&c.</i> in Kent. In short, the evidence is this: the author is - plainly describing these parts; and where should <em>Mutuantonis</em> - stand, but upon the river <em>Antona</em>? and it does not appear, that - any other river hereabouts is so called; or, if it did, <em>Anderida</em> - may very well thither be referred, which cannot possibly to this place. - I take the name of <em>lavant</em>, or <em>mutuant</em>, to be synonymous - words in the British language, to distinguish it, as we said, from - <em>trausant</em>;, for <em>llafar</em> signifies <em>sonorous</em>, - <em>loquax</em>; and <em>mwth</em> is <em>citus</em>, <em>velox</em>; either of - which, prefixed to <em>Antona</em>, describe this rapid or noisy river; - and in effect we find it remarkably so. Dr. Holland in his notes at - the bottom of Mr. Camden expresly observes, that this river, though - sometimes quite dry, at others, and that very often in the midst of - summer, is so full as to run very violently: this, no doubt, is owing - to its rise in the neighbouring high grounds to the north; for from - them it must needs fall with an impetuous torrent. Further, it may - possibly be derived from the British <em>llai minor</em>, signifying the - <em>lesser Antona</em>, from its short course; the consonant <i>v</i>, - or <i>f</i> which is its<span class="pagenum" id="Page_202">202</span> equivalent, being interposed <i lang="la">euphoniæ - gratia</i>: or if Mr. Baxter’s correction of <em>Mantantonis</em> be - thought just, then it signifies the mouth of the river <em>Antona</em>; - and Chichester now stands very near its inlet into the sea, and - formerly nearer. What way soever we take it, it seems reasonable to - conclude this is the place. Though it was not properly a sea-port town, - yet it is plainly near enough for the establishment of the <i lang="la">collegium - fabrorum</i> here; and the vast plenty of wood from the adjoining - forest favoured their work, whether of timber or the forge. Since - this inscription, there was found a Mosaic pavement in Mrs. Downes’s - garden; and when that was pulled in pieces as usual, a brass coin was - discovered under it of Nero and Drusus Cæs. on one side, represented - on horseback; on the other, <cite>C. Cæsar Divi aug. pron. aug. p. m. tr. - p.</cite> <span class="allsmcap">IIII.</span> <i>pp.</i> which no doubt was there deposited to - show the <em>æra</em> of that work.</p> - - <p>A little way out of the city northward, we passed by a Roman camp, - called Brill, I suppose Bury hill, in Ogilby’s maps called <em>Beauty’s - bank</em>: the Roman road called Stone-street causeway, goes directly - north-east from hence through this country, and by Darking church-yard - in Surrey; <span class="sidenote">TAB. LXXXII.</span>then falls into the Hermen-street at Woodcote.</p> - - <p>St. Roc’s hill is a fine elevation, with a spacious circular camp - on the top, of a round form, a <i lang="la">castrum æstivum</i>, belonging to - <em>Mantantonis</em>. Here is a foundation of a chapel, or a beacon, - perhaps both: the reader may gather an idea of the view here from - <span class="sidenote">TAB. XLIII.</span><a href="#i_150">plate 43</a>. At Midhurst is a fine old seat called Cowdrey, belonging - to the Browns viscount Montacute: it stands in a valley incompassed - with lawns, hills and woods, thrown into a park, the river running - underneath. It is a large house of stone, consisting of one court: - the hall is cieled of Irish oak after the ancient manner; <span class="sidenote smcap">Mida.</span>the walls - painted with architecture by Roberti, the statues by Goupé, the - stair-case by Pelegrini: the room at the end of the hall is of - Holbein’s painting, where that famous old artist has described the - exploits of Henry VIII. before Bulloign, Calais, his landing at - Portsmouth, his magnificent entry into London, &c. In the other rooms - are many excellent pictures of the ancestors of the family, and other - history-painting of Holbein’s, relating to their actions in war. The - whole circuit of rooms above stairs are stately and well furnished, - adorned with many pictures: there is a long gallery with the twelve - apostles as big as the life; another very neat one, wainscotted with - Norway oak, where are many ancient whole-length pictures of the family - in their proper habits, which is a very elegant notion: there are four - history pieces; two copies of Raphael’s marriage of Cupid and Psyche; - several old religious and military paintings from Battle-abbey. The - road to Midhurst to us appeared Roman, and therefore strengthens the - supposition of its being <em>Mida</em>.</p> - - <p>St. Roc’s hill is upon the chalky down running east and west: north - of it to Farnham it is sandy, full of <em>erica</em>; but the valleys - are rich, warm and woody. The heaths between Farnham and Godalmin are - full of barrows. Ferndon hill in the way to Godalmin is very steep - northwards, and of an hour’s descent; which you rise to insensibly: it - runs east and west.</p> - - <div class="sidenote"><span class="smcap">Calleva Atrebatum.</span></div> - - <div class="sidenote">TAB. XLIV. 2d Vol.</div> - - <p>At Farnham is the bishop of Winchester’s palace, a magnificent ancient - structure of the castle-form, deeply moted, and strongly walled about, - with towers at proper distance: it stands upon the edge of a hill, - where is a fine park. One large and broad street of the town, below - hill, fronts the castle; the main of the rest of the town consists of - a long strait street crossing it at right angles, which is the Roman - road coming from Winchester: the river runs parallel to it on the - south: this is a fine rich soil<span class="pagenum" id="Page_203">203</span> with much sand in it, and has an - extraordinary propriety for the growth of hops. This place I take to - be the <em>Caleva Atrebatum</em>;<a id="FNanchor_140" href="#Footnote_140" class="fnanchor">[140]</a> which because it is a notion of - my own advancing, it requires that I should a little enlarge upon it, - and propose it to your discerning judgement. This has been hitherto - matter of dispute among antiquaries, and I think cannot otherwise - be settled than in fixing it at this place: it will make this VIIth - journey of Antoninus and some more very clear, that otherwise labour - under insuperable difficulties: therefore this I propose to be the true - scheme of that journey.</p> - - <div class="center"><span class="gesperrt1">ITER </span>VII. <i>a Regno Londinium M. P.</i> XCVI. <i>sic</i></div> - - <table> - <tbody> - <tr> - <td><i>Regnum</i></td> - <td>Ringwood</td> - <td> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Trausantum</i></td> - <td>Southampton</td> - <td>XX</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Venta Belgarum</i></td> - <td>Winchester</td> - <td>X</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Caleva Atrebatum</i></td> - <td>Farnham</td> - <td>XXII</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Pontes</i></td> - <td>Stanes</td> - <td>XXII</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Londinium</i></td> - <td>London</td> - <td>XXII</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - <td>———</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div><i>toto</i>,</div></td> - <td>XCVI.</td> - </tr> - </tbody> - </table> - - <p class="noindent">We have no difference in the copies, but in the sum total at top, which - is owing only to a transposition of the letters C and X. therefore all - we have to do is to find out the towns; the particular numbers being - indisputably right, and rightly cast up in the <cite>Suritan</cite> edition; - and all the places that admit any question, are only <em>Calleva</em> - and <em>Pontes</em>, which in this manner mutually prove one another, - as being absolutely conformable to geography, and the nearest way one - should chuse to go at this day, and having from Southampton a Roman - road accompanying all the way. This summer I rode through Winchester - and Farnham, through Alresford and Alton, and observed in many places - signs sufficient of that nature; though it is horridly out of repair, - and even in the midst of summer very bad, notwithstanding such plenty - of materials every where to mend it: this has obliged coaches and - horsemen frequently to make excursions for their ease and safety. Mr. - Aubury likewise pronounces it a Roman road long since in his manuscript - collections. Between Farnham and Alton the bank is visible, in several - places between Alresford and Alton: the right reverend author of the - additions to Camden takes notice of it. The distance is twenty two - miles, as in the Itinerary; but to Wallingford, where Mr. Camden places - it, it is thirty; to Henley somewhat more: beside, from the one you - must cross the Thames three times, from the other twice in the way - to London; a thing the Romans would certainly avoid, if possible: - but from Farnham by way of Stanes is the direct road, and distances - correspondent as before.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4"> - <div class="plateno1"><i>44·2<sup>d</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span></i></div> - <div><b><i>Prospect of</i> Farnham <i>Sep: 16. 1723.</i></b><br> - <span class="smcap">Caleva atrebatvm</span></div> - <img src="images/i_202.jpg" alt=""> - <div class="attl"><i>Stukeley del.</i></div> - <div class="attr"><i>E. Kirkall sculp.</i></div> - </figure> - - <p><em>Calleva</em> is again mentioned in the XIIIth and XIVth journeys, - both which I have already corrected; and they mutually confirm one - another, and take away all difficulties when they are considered - together. Lastly, <em>Calleva</em> is mentioned in the XVth journey of - Antoninus: I shall exhibit it in this form, which I conceive to be its - original one. We have cleared all the other parts of it before, where - it differs from this in the printed copies.</p> - - <p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_204">204</span></p> - - <div class="center"><span class="gesperrt1">ITER </span>XV. <i lang="la">a Caleva Atrebatum, Iscam Dumnoniorum M. P.</i> CXXXXI. <i>sic</i></div> - - <table> - <tbody> - <tr> - <td><i>Caleva Atrebatum</i></td> - <td style="padding-left: 1.5em;">Farnham</td> - <td> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Vindoma</i></td> - <td style="padding-left: 1.5em;">Silchester</td> - <td>XV</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Venta Belgarum</i></td> - <td style="padding-left: 1.5em;">Winchester</td> - <td>XXI</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Brigæ</i></td> - <td>by Broughton</td> - <td>XI</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Sorbiodunum</i></td> - <td style="padding-left: 1.5em;">Old Sarum</td> - <td>VIII</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Vindogladia</i></td> - <td style="padding-left: 1.5em;">Boroston</td> - <td>XII</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td style="padding-left: 2.5em;">Ibernium</td> - <td><i>Bere regis</i></td> - <td>XIIII</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Durnovaria</i></td> - <td style="padding-left: 1.5em;">Dorchester</td> - <td>IX</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Moridunum</i></td> - <td style="padding-left: 1.5em;">Seaton</td> - <td>XXXVI</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Isca Dumnoniorum</i></td> - <td style="padding-left: 1.5em;">Excester</td> - <td>XV</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - <td>————</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - <td>CXXXXI</td> - </tr> - </tbody> - </table> - - <p class="noindent">Perhaps the last X in the sum total was corrupted into a V after the - station was dropped out. The first part of it here establishes the site - of <em>Calleva</em> in respect to <em>Venta Belgarum</em>; as in the XIIIth - and XIVth journeys in respect to <em>Spina</em>; so that it is proved - from different points of a triangle, and as it were by mathematical - demonstration.</p> - - <p>I imagine the occasion of over-sight in this matter is owing to Mr. - Camden’s settling the <em>Atrebates</em> in Berkshire; and his authority, - no doubt, with every one is of the greatest weight deservedly: yet I - suppose his only reason for it is because he thought Wallingford the - <em>Calleva Atrebatum</em>, as having some resemblance to his supposed - <em>Gallena</em>. In his Roman map he has set these <em>Atrebates</em> - partly north of the Thames in Oxfordshire, where himself puts the - <em>Ancalites</em>, and partly south, where rightly he fixes the - <em>Bibroci</em> in Berkshire: this is in my judgement too far northward. - I doubt not but the <em>Bibroci</em> inhabited Berkshire intirely to the - Thames, as I proved in a former letter; to which we may add, that if, - as he says, this country was called by the Saxons <em>Berrocscyre</em>, - there can be no difficulty in asserting the word derived from - <em>Bibroci</em>. The <em>Atrebates</em> came undoubtedly from <em>Gallia - Belgica</em>, where were a people of the same name upon the sea-coasts; - and if we place them here in Surrey about this their capital, they - may with some propriety with Mr. Camden be said here in Britain to - live over-against their own country, where Ptolemy places them in - the maritime parts upon the Sein; but not if he sends them up to the - top of the Thames: nor is it probable they should have penetrated so - far up the country, even beyond their brethren the <em>Belgæ</em>, by - all allowed the most powerful colony of transmarine people at that - time. The <em>Segontiaci</em> as well as <em>Bibroci</em>, on this side - the Thames, would confessedly oppose such passage; therefore, if we - give Sussex to the <em>Regni</em>, we must reserve Surrey for these - <em>Atrebates</em>, and Farnham their capital; and this is agreeable to - Ptolemy, who places them next the <em>Cantii</em>.</p> - - <p>A little without Farnham eastward, the road divides into two branches - with an acute angle: one goes to Guildford and Darking, where it - meets the Stane-street coming from Chichester; the other to Stanes, - which I prosecuted to Farnborow, probably a station or inn, or camp - to secure the road over this wild country; for it is deep sand from - Farnham to Egham: but where in particular the Roman road went is not - easy to define, because of the extraordinary sandiness of the whole - country:<a id="FNanchor_141" href="#Footnote_141" class="fnanchor">[141]</a> but at Frimley, - near <span class="pagenum" id="Page_205">205</span>here, about sixteen year ago, an - urn with Roman coins and intaglia’s was found: Mr. Titchburn had them. - This is directly in the way to Farnbarow. I suppose there was a Roman - way from Silchester through Stretley, Hartley row, Harford bridge, - which signifies <i lang="la">trajectus militaris</i>, but from the mooryness of - the soil is quite worn away. I take this road to be a continuation of - that coming from the Bath by Marlborough;<a id="FNanchor_142" href="#Footnote_142" class="fnanchor">[142]</a> but at Stanes I saw - our road very evidently go through the fields west of the bridge, and - directly over-against it;<span class="sidenote">TAB. LVI.</span> for it must be understood that the Romans - drew a road, as I said before, under the Icening-street, and parallel - to it, which went from <em>Regnum</em> to London. This is what we have - been upon, and composes this VIIth <em>Iter</em>: From thence it passed - through Colchester to the sea-coasts of Suffolk. Now between Stanes - and London it is notorious, being the common road at present, till you - come to Turnham green:<a id="FNanchor_143" href="#Footnote_143" class="fnanchor">[143]</a> there the present road through Hammersmith - and Kensington leaves it; for it passes more northward upon the common, - where to a discerning eye the trace of it is manifest; then it goes - over a little brook called from it Stanford-bridge, and comes into the - Acton road at a common, and a bridge, a little west of Camden house, so - along Hyde-park wall, and crosses the Watling-street at Tyburn, then - along Oxford-road. But of this part of it, going to Old-street, north - of London, I spoke before.</p> - - <hr class="full clear mt2"> - <figure class="illowp100 mb4" id="i_205"> - <div class="plateno"><i>84</i></div> - <div><b><i>Prospect of Stanes Sept. 16. 1723.</i><br> - <span class="smcap">Pontes</span><br><i class="small">16 Sep. 1723.</i></b></div> - <img src="images/i_205.jpg" alt=""> - </figure> - - <p>Between Oxford-street and Stanes, this Roman road was originally drawn - through Brentford, which undoubtedly was a mansion between them; and - this is a very strait line: I rode the broken part of it between Acton - road and Turnham green: it is still a narrow strait way, keeping its - original direction, but full of dangerous sloughs, being a clayey soil - and never repaired: it butts full upon Stanes bridge, and then beyond - it passes forward in a strait line through gardens and yards into the - corn-fields, where its ridge is still left, the highest part of all the - field, though they plough close to it on both sides; and it is now a - road for three quarters of a mile; then it enters a narrow lane, and - at last degenerates into a foot-path toward Thorp-lea, in the way to - Farnham; the common road leaving it all this while in the way to Egham. - So that undoubtedly Stanes was the <span class="sidenote smcap">Pontes.</span><em>Pontes</em> of Antoninus;<a id="FNanchor_144" href="#Footnote_144" class="fnanchor">[144]</a> - the distances of 22 miles on both sides answering the fact, and the - <span class="sidenote">TAB. LXXXIV.</span>Itinerary; with which I shall at present conclude mine in the words of - the poet,</p> - - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry" lang="la"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0"><i>Hic labor extremus, longarum hæc meta viarum.</i><span class="fright"><span class="smcap">Virg.</span> Æn. III.</span></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - -</div> - - <div class="chapter"> - <hr class="full thick"> - <hr class="full mt0"> - <h2 class="nobreak" id="PLATES"><span class="gesperrt1 small">THE</span><br> - <span class="gesperrt4">PLATES</span><br> - <span class="gesperrt1 small">IN</span><br> - <i>ITINERARIUM CURIOSUM</i>, Cent. I.</h2> - </div> - - <div class="center mb2">And where explained.</div> - - <table class="small"> - <tbody> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>1.</div></td> - <td>Rural Curiosity.</td> - <td>Marlborough <i>mount, and the cascade at</i> Wilton.</td> - <td class="tdr" style="min-width: 7em;"><div>Pag. <a href="#i_064_1">64</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>2.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td>Lincolnshire <i>decoys</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_018">18</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>3.</div></td> - <td>Seats.</td> - <td><i>Lord</i> Hartford’s <i>house at</i> Marlborough.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_064_2">64</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>4.</div></td> - <td>Ichnography of castles.</td> - <td>Ludlow <i>castle, ground-plot and prospect</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_074_1">74</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>5.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td><i>Prospect of the same.</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_074_2">74</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>6.</div></td> - <td>Views of castles.</td> - <td>Rochester <i>castle</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_120_2">120</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>7.</div></td> - <td>Bridges.</td> - <td>Croyland <i>bridge</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_034">34</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>8.</div></td> - <td>Ichnography of Palaces.</td> - <td>Whitehall <i>ruins ground-plot</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_iv_2"><i>Pref.</i></a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>9.</div></td> - <td>Ruins of Palaces.</td> - <td><i>King</i> John’<i>s palace at</i> Clarendon.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_138">138</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>10.</div></td> - <td>Seals.</td> - <td><i>Of the church of</i> Norwich.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_iv_3"><i>Pref.</i></a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>11.</div></td> - <td>Crosses.</td> - <td><i>St.</i> Guthlack’<i>s, Ivy cross</i>, Ednam, Hadenham, <i>and others</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_12">12</a>, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a href="#i_107">107</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>12.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td>Waltham <i>cross</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_037">37</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>13.</div></td> - <td>Prospects.</td> - <td>Blackston <i>cave, &c. near</i> Bewdley.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_074_3">74</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>14.</div></td> - <td>Hermitages.</td> - <td>Dale <i>abbey, &c. and</i> Blackston <i>cave ground-plot</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_53">53</a>, <a href="#i_074_4">74</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>15.</div></td> - <td>Portraits.</td> - <td><i>Sir</i> Harry Spelman.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_iv_1"><i>Pref.</i></a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>16.</div></td> - <td>Monumental brasses.</td> - <td><i>Bishop</i> Smith, <i>founder of</i> Brazen-nose <i>college</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_092">92</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>17.</div></td> - <td>Marbles.</td> - <td>Aylwin <i>alderman of</i> England.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_081">81</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>18.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td><i>King</i> John’<i>s effigies at</i> Worcester.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_068">68</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>19.</div></td> - <td>View of churches.</td> - <td>Boston, Lincolnshire.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_031">31</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>20.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td>Colsterworth <i>church</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_085">85</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>21.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td>Holbech <i>church</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_020_1">20</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>22.</div></td> - <td>Religious ruins.</td> - <td><i>Priory of</i> Leominster.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_072">72</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>23.</div></td> - <td>Gatehouses.</td> - <td>Reding <i>abbey, and</i> Worcester <i>college</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_063_2">63</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>24.</div></td> - <td>Places of interment of archbishops.</td> - <td><i>St.</i> Augustin, <i>St.</i> Augustin’<i>s abbey</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_123_1">123</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>25.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td><i>Ruins of that abbey, king</i> Ethelbert’<i>s chapel. St.</i> Gregory’<i>s chapel</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_120">120</a>, <a href="#i_123_2">123</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>26.</div></td> - <td>Kings.</td> - <td>Reding <i>abbey, king</i> Harry I.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_063_1">63</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>27.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td>Feversham <i>abbey, king</i> Stephen.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_121">121</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>28.</div></td> - <td>Ichnography of abbies.</td> - <td>Kirsted <i>abbey</i>, Tupholm <i>abbey</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_088_1">88</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>29.</div></td> - <td>Shrines.</td> - <td><i>St.</i> Hugh <i>the</i> Burgundian’<i>s shrine</i>, Lincoln.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_092_1">92</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>30.</div></td> - <td>Altars.</td> - <td><i>The high altar of St.</i> Alban’<i>s abbey</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_117_1">117</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>31.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td><i>The backside of the same.</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_117_2">117</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>32.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td><i>White fryers in</i> Gloucester.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_067_1">67</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>33.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td><i>Ichnography of</i> Glassenbury <i>abbey</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_151">151</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>34.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td><i>The kitchen there.</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_152_2">152</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>35.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td><i>St.</i> Joseph <i>of</i> Arimathea’<i>s chapel</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_152_4">152</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>36.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td><i>Ruins of</i> Glassenbury <i>abbey</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_152_3">152</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>37.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td><i>Prospect of the same.</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_152_1">151</a>, <a href="#Page_153">153</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>38.</div></td> - <td>Pictish.</td> - <td><i>The caves of</i> Hauthornden, Scotland.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_053_2">53</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>39.</div></td> - <td>British.</td> - <td><i>The</i> Troglodytes <i>of</i> Nottingham.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_053_1">53</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>40.</div></td> - <td>Greek.</td> - <td><i>A view at</i> Athens.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_v_1"><i>Pref.</i></a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>41.</div></td> - <td>Roman camps.</td> - <td>Chlorus <i>his camp, near</i> Clarendon <i>park</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_137_1">137</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>42.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td>Oldbury <i>camp in</i> Wiltshire.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_141">141</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>43.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td>Camalet <i>castle and view from St.</i> Roc’<i>s hill</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_150">150</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>44.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td>Martinsal <i>hill</i>, Montacute <i>hill</i>, &c.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_139">139</a>, <a href="#Page_156">156</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>45.</div></td> - <td>Walls.</td> - <td>Silchester <i>walls, and a</i> Roman <i>camp</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_079">79</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>46.</div></td> - <td>Pharos.</td> - <td>Pharos <i>in</i> Dover <i>castle</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_129_3">129</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>47.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td><i>Ground-plot and section of the same.</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_129_2">129</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>48.</div></td> - <td>Romano-Saxonic.</td> - <td><i>St.</i> Martin’<i>s church</i>, Canterbury, <i>and the Church in</i> Dover-castle.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_129_1">129</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>49.</div></td> - <td>Roman inscriptions.</td> - <td>Chichester, <i>&c.</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_148_1">148</a>, <a href="#Page_196">196</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>50.</div></td> - <td>Amphitheatre.</td> - <td>Dorchester <i>amphitheatre ground-plot</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_165">165</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>51.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td><i>From the entrance a view.</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_167_3">167</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>52.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td><i>Another view.</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_167_1">169</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>53.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td><i>The sections and oblique view of the amphitheatre.</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_167_2">165</a>, <a href="#Page_167">167</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>54.</div></td> - <td>Gates.</td> - <td>Roman <i>gate at</i> Lincoln <i>and</i> Canterbury.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_089">89</a>, <a href="#Page_122">122</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>55.</div></td> - <td>Buildings.</td> - <td><i>Temple of</i> Janus <i>at</i> Leicester.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_109_1">109</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>56.</div></td> - <td>Itinerary.</td> - <td><i>Of</i> Antoninus.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>, <a href="#Page_205">205</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>57.</div></td> - <td>Ichnography of Roman Cities.</td> - <td>Londinium Augusta, <i>London</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_119">119</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>58.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td>Garionenum <i>by</i> Yarmouth.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_132_2">132</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>59.</div></td> - <td style="padding-left: 3em;">and</td> - <td>Camboritum, Chesterford <i>Mag.</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_078">78</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>60.</div></td> - <td>Prospect of Roman Cities.</td> - <td>Spinæ, <i>Newberry</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_063_3">63</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>61.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td>Vindoma, <i>Silchester</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_163">163</a>, <a href="#Page_177">177</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>62.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td>Cunetio castrum, Marlborough.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_063_5">63</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>63.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td><i>Prospect of</i> Marlborough.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_063_6">63</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>64.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td>Leucomagus, <i>Great Bedwin</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_064_3">64</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>65.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td>Sorbiodunum, <i>Old Sarum</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_182">182</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>66.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td><i>Prospect of Old</i> Sarum.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_183">183</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>67.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td><i>View of Old and New</i> Sarum <i>from</i> Harnham-hill.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_137_2">137</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>68.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td>Verlucio, <i>Heddington</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_142">142</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>69.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td>Punctuobice, <i>the Devizes</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_144">144</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>70.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td>Aquæ Solis, <i>Bath</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_146_1">146</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>71.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td><i>Prospect of the</i> Bath.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_146_2">146</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>72.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td>Ischalis, <i>Ilchester</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_154">154</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>73.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td>Isca Dumnoniorum, <i>Exeter</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_156">156</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>74.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td><i>Prospect of</i> Exeter.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_159_2">159</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>75.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td>Moridunum, <i>Seaton</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_159_1">159</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>76.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td>Londinis, <i>Lyme</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_161_1">160</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>77.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td>Durnovaria, <i>Dorchester</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_161_2">161</a>, <a href="#Page_165">165</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>78.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td><i>Prospect of</i> Dorchester.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_161_3">161</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>79.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td>Trausantum, <i>Southampton, and prospect from</i> Portsmouth.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_193_2">193</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>80.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td>Portus Magnus, <i>Portchester, and view in the port</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_193_1">193</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>81.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td>Mantantonis, <i>Chichester</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_195_2">195</a>, <a href="#Page_201">201</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>82.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td><i>Prospect of</i> Portsmouth <i>and of</i> Chichester.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_195_1">195</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>83.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td>Venta Belgarum.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_191">191</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>84.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td>Pontes, <i>Stanes</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_205">205</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>85.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td>Ariconium, <i>Kenchester</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_069">69</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>86.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td>Derventio, <i>Little Chester by</i> Derby.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_054">54</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>87.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td>Agelocum, <i>Littlebury</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_093">93</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>88.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td>Lindum colonia, <i>Lincoln</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_088_2">88</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>89.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td>Banovallum, <i>Horncastle</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_030">30</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>90.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td>Ad Pontem, <i>by</i> Bridgford.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_104">105</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>91.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td>Margidunum, <i>by</i> Willoughby.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_106">106</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>92.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td>Ratæ Coritanorum, <i>Leicester</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_108_2">108</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>93.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td>Benonis, <i>High-cross</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_110">110</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>94.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td>Tripontium, <i>Dove-bridge</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_112">112</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>95.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td>Verolanium, <i>Verolam</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_116_2">116</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>96.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td>Durovernum, <i>Canterbury</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_122">122</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>97.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td>Richborough-castle.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_125_1">125</a>, <a href="#Page_163">163</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>98.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td>Lapis tituli, <i>Folkstone</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_130">131</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>99.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td>Lemanus Portus, <i>Limne</i>.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_132_1">132</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>100.</div></td> - <td>Celestial character.</td> - <td><i>The great conjunction of the five Planets.</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_v_4"><i>Preface.</i></a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>101.</div></td> - <td> </td> - <td><i>Total eclipse of the Sun in 1721.</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#i_180">179</a></div></td> - </tr> - </tbody> - </table> - - <div class="chapter"> - <hr class="full thick"> - <hr class="full mt0"> - <h2 class="nobreak" id="INDEX"><span class="gesperrt4">INDEX</span>.</h2> - </div> - - <table class="small"> - <thead> - <tr> - <td> </td> - <th class="tdr"><div>Page</div></th> - </tr> - </thead> - <tbody> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc"><div>English.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Birth-Places, Sir <i>Isaac Newton</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_85">85</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">———— Dr. <i>Willis</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_64">64</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">———— Dr. <i>Harvey</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_131">131</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Champions of <i>England</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_61">61</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Circular churches</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_87">87</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Hermitages</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>, - <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">K. <i>John</i>’s palace</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_138">138</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">K. <i>Charles</i> II. at <i>Winchester</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_191">191</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Two mitred priories, <i>Spalding</i> and <i>Thornholme</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_95">95</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Q. <i>Eleanor</i>’s crosses</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_36">36</a>, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_92">92</a>, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>, - <a href="#Page_115">115</a>, <a href="#Page_117">117</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Royal oak</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_60">60</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">The <i>British</i> navy</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_194">194</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Sepulture of K. <i>Lucius</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_192">192</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">———— <i>H.</i> I.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_63">63</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">———— <i>H.</i> IV.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_124">124</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">———— <i>Etheldred</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_190">190</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">———— <i>Edgar</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_152">152</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">———— <i>Arthur</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_152">152</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">———— <i>Stephen</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_121">121</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">———— <i>Rich.</i> III.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_109">109</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">———— <i>Edw.</i> II.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_67">67</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">———— <i>John</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_68">68</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">———— <i>Rob. Brus</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_81">81</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Stilton</i> cheese</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_81">81</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Wales</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_59">59</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">The Washes</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_19">19</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Vicar of <i>Bedwin</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_65">65</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc pt3"><div>Etymology.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Ankam</i> river</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_95">95</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Bow</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_31">31</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Barrows, burrows, bowers</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_48">48</a>, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>, <a href="#Page_115">115</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Biard</i>’s leap</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_87">87</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Crekelade</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_65">65</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Churn</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_65">65</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Cunnet</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_63">63</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Catwater</i> &c.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_8">8</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Elho</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_5">5</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Ely</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_5">5</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Frampton</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_24">24</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Holland</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_5">5</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Humber</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_96">96</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Hedg or hay in dancing</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_99">99</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Helpringham</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_12">12</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Hargate</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_16">16</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Hurn</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Kesteven</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_85">85</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Llys</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_66">66</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Lichfield</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_66">66</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Lade</i>, <i>lode</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_65">65</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Lindsey</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_85">85</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Martinalia</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_139">139</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Preshute</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_64">64</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Quern</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_67">67</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Ruffian, romeing</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Sarn</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>, <a href="#Page_121">121</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Syfer</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_102">102</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Thong-castle</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_102">102</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Thong, wang</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_102">102</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Warths</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_162">162</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Welsh</i> words in <i>Lincolnshire</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_59">59</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Witham</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_85">85</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Pageants</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_174">174</a></div></td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc pt3"><div>Genealogies.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Of <i>Wakes</i> of <i>Brun</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_10">10</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Moulton</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_23">23</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Croun</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_25">25</a></div></td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc pt3"><div>Seats.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Ambsbury</i>, lord <i>Charlton</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_137">137</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Althorp</i>, earl of <i>Sunderland</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_38">38</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Boughton</i>, duke of <i>Montague</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_36">36</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Burghley</i>, earl of <i>Exeter</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_35">35</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Belvoir</i>, duke of <i>Rutland</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_52">52</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Chatsworth</i>, duke of <i>Devon</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_55">55</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Cowdrey</i>, lord <i>Montacute</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_202">202</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Eston</i>, earl of <i>Pomfret</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_38">38</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Grimsthorp</i>, duke of <i>Ancaster</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_12">12</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Hampton-court</i>, earl of <i>Coningsby</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_72">72</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Marlborough</i>, earl of <i>Hertford</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_64">64</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Ribsford</i>, lord <i>Herbert</i> of <i>Cherbury</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_74">74</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Wilton</i>, earl of <i>Pembroke</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_65">65</a>, <a href="#Page_185">185</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Woodstock</i>, duke of <i>Marlborough</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_46">46</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Warwick</i>, lord <i>Brooke</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_49">49</a></div></td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc pt3"><div>Mechanics.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Gotes and sluices, by whom invented</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_13">13</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Decoys described</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_18">18</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Salt making</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_57">57</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">The form of oars</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_130">130</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Silk mill</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_54">54</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Stocking-loom</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_52">52</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Lace-loom</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_58">58</a></div></td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc pt3"><div>Antediluvian.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Trees</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Wood</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_37">37</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Bones</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_93">93</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Canoos</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_121">121</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Nuts</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_147">147</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Fish</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_81">81</a>, <a href="#Page_156">156</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Plants</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_149">149</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Horns</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_16">16</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Shells</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_18">18</a>, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>, - <a href="#Page_96">96</a>, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>, - <a href="#Page_116">116</a>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>, - <a href="#Page_149">149</a>, <a href="#Page_151">151</a></div></td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc pt3"><div>Art.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Mr. <i>Ashe’s</i> Garden</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_55">55</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Enston</i> water-works</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_48">48</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Gothic</i> architecture commended</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_67">67</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Whence their ill taste</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_124">124</a></div></td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc pt3"><div>Mineralogy.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Lead mines</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_54">54</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Salt-springs</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_57">57</a>, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Salt works</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_58">58</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Tobacco-pipe clay</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_37">37</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Coal mines</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>, <a href="#Page_149">149</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Fullers earth</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_115">115</a></div></td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc pt3"><div>Geography.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Memoirs towards a <i>British</i> map of soils</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>, - <a href="#Page_64">64</a>, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>, - <a href="#Page_120">120</a>, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>, <a href="#Page_177">177</a>, - <a href="#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>, - <a href="#Page_195">195</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>, <a href="#Page_204">204</a></div></td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc pt3"><div>Natural.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Composure of stones</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_18">18</a>, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>, - <a href="#Page_159">159</a>, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>, <a href="#Page_192">192</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">The earth an oblade sphæroid</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_5">5</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Proofs of the rotation of the globe</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>, - <a href="#Page_73">73</a>, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>, <a href="#Page_96">96</a>, - <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>, <a href="#Page_120">120</a>, - <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>, - <a href="#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>, <a href="#Page_151">151</a>, - <a href="#Page_157">157</a>, <a href="#Page_159">159</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">The drumming well at <i>Oundle</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_36">36</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Pool’s</i> hole</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_57">57</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Another</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_149">149</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Remarkably large stone</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_137">137</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Flints in chalk</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_120">120</a>, <a href="#Page_141">141</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Echo</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_172">172</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Beach of pebbles</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_124">124</a>, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>, <a href="#Page_127">127</a>, <a href="#Page_159">159</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Of the noise of the ocean</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_126">126</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Springs flowing with the tide</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_94">94</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Petrifying springs</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>, <a href="#Page_112">112</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Springs swallowed up</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_131">131</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Floating island</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_57">57</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">The philosophy of making drains</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_17">17</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">———— of harbours</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_130">130</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">———— of oars</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_130">130</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">An account of the solar eclipse</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_179">179</a></div></td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc pt3"><div>Medicinal.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Chalybeat spring</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_9">9</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Ossification in a sheep</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_20">20</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Sheep without horns</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_17">17</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Prodigious memory</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_69">69</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Buxton</i> bath</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_56">56</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Bath</i> waters</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_146">146</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Case of a greyhound bitch</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_155">155</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Bronchocele endemic</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_54">54</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">The symbol of medicine</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_148">148</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Scribonius</i>, physician to <i>Claudius</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_148">148</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">One aged 126</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_37">37</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Of the gout</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_157">157</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Richness of soil in old cities</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_106">106</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">West side of the island most healthy</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>, <a href="#Page_146">146</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Botany</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>, - <a href="#Page_57">57</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>, <a href="#Page_95">95</a>, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>, - <a href="#Page_113">113</a>, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>, <a href="#Page_128">128</a>, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>, - <a href="#Page_137">137</a>, <a href="#Page_149">149</a>, <a href="#Page_151">151</a>, <a href="#Page_154">154</a>, <a href="#Page_159">159</a>, - <a href="#Page_160">160</a>, <a href="#Page_189">189</a>, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>, <a href="#Page_203">203</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Extravagant bulk of plants</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_72">72</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Celtic</i> names of plants</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_190">190</a></div></td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc pt3"><div><i>Roman</i> Roads.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_57">57</a>, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>, - <a href="#Page_87">87</a>, <a href="#Page_96">96</a>, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>, <a href="#Page_120">120</a>, - <a href="#Page_127">127</a>, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>, <a href="#Page_151">151</a>, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>, - <a href="#Page_158">158</a>, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>, - <a href="#Page_195">195</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>, <a href="#Page_203">203</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Artifice of them</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_108">108</a>, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="#Page_187">187</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Manner of paving</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_106">106</a>, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>, <a href="#Page_155">155</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Hermen-street</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">—— name</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_6">6</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">—— the new</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_85">85</a>, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Old <i>Hermen-street</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_7">7</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td style="padding-left: 2em;">by whom made</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Brigantian Hermen-street</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_92">92</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Akeman-street</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td style="padding-left: 2em;">name</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_43">43</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Ricning-way</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_68">68</a>, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href="#Page_148">148</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td style="padding-left: 2em;">name</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_148">148</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Icening street</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>, - <a href="#Page_160">160</a>, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>, <a href="#Page_187">187</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td style="padding-left: 2em;">name</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_161">161</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td style="padding-left: 2em;">extent</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_161">161</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Foss</i> road</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>, <a href="#Page_154">154</a>, <a href="#Page_155">155</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td style="padding-left: 2em;">name</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_103">103</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td style="padding-left: 2em;">extent</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_156">156</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Watling-street</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, <a href="#Page_127">127</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td style="padding-left: 2em;">name</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_111">111</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td style="padding-left: 2em;">directed to <i>Rome</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_111">111</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Via Trinovantica</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_118">118</a>, <a href="#Page_177">177</a>, <a href="#Page_205">205</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Stone streets</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_122">122</a>, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>, <a href="#Page_204">204</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Ravens-bank</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_15">15</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Via Badonica</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_62">62</a>, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_140">140</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Brig-end</i> causeway</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_15">15</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">In <i>Holland</i>, <i>Lincolnshire</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_14">14</a></div></td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc pt3"><div><i>English</i> Towns.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Ambsbury</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_137">137</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Blandford</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_189">189</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Boston</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_31">31</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Buxton</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_56">56</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Bewdley</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_74">74</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Crowland</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_33">33</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Chip. norton</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_48">48</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Coventry</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_49">49</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Connington</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_81">81</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Colsterworth</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_85">85</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Chard</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_156">156</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Derby</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_54">54</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Fereby</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_99">99</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Feversham</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_121">121</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Fleet</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_12">12</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Frieston</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_25">25</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Fotheringhay</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_35">35</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Glassonbury</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_151">151</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Gedney</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_12">12</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Holbech</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_12">12</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Hyth</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_131">131</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Hereford</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_71">71</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Islip</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_44">44</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Kirkton</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_32">32</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Lichfield</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_66">66</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Leominster</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_72">72</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Ludlow</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_73">73</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Moulton</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_22">22</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Malvern</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_69">69</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Newark</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_104">104</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Nottingham</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_52">52</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Oundle</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_36">36</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Oxford</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_44">44</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Petherton</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_156">156</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Portsmouth</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_193">193</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Rotherston</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_57">57</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Reading</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_62">62</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Somerton</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_154">154</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Steeple-ashton</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_145">145</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Southampton</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_192">192</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Stukeley</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_80">80</a>, <a href="#Page_114">114</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Stanford</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_35">35</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Tamworth</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_61">61</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Wight</i> island</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_195">195</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Wrexham</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_59">59</a></div></td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc pt3"><div><i>Roman</i> Towns.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Ancaster</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_86">86</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Brigcasterton</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_84">84</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Brentford</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_205">205</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Crekelade</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_65">65</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Caster</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_101">101</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Grantham</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_52">52</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Hartford</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_77">77</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Laurance Waltham</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_62">62</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Northfleet</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_120">120</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Newington</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_122">122</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Royston</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_79">79</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Sleaford</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_9">9</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Stanfield</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_9">9</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Stunsfield</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_47">47</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Spittal</i> on the street</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_94">94</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Towcester</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_40">40</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Wintringham</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_95">95</a></div></td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc pt3"><div><i>Roman</i> cities.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Abontrus</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_96">96</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Alauna</i>, Aldcester</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_40">40</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Ad spinam</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_63">63</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Ariconium</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_69">69</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Agelocum</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_93">93</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Aquis</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_96">96</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Ad pontem</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_105">105</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Alauna</i>, Wimborn</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_190">190</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Arminis</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_191">191</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Aquæ solis</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_146">146</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Andaoreon</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_179">179</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Brigæ</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_184">184</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Bolnelaunium</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_190">190</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Benavona</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_114">114</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Benonis</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_110">110</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Branonium</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_68">68</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Bonium</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_59">59</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Branavis</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_48">48</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Banovallum</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_30">30</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Condate</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_57">57</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Cunetio</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_63">63</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Corinium</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_66">66</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Camboritum</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_78">78</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Causennis</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_85">85</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Crocolana</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_103">103</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Caleva Atrebatum</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_202">202</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Colomeæ</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_150">150</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Derventio</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_54">54</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Deva</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_59">59</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Durocinonte</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_80">80</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Durobrivis</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_82">82</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Durocobrivis</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_116">116</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Durobrovis</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_120">120</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Durolenum</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_121">121</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Durovernum</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_122">122</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Dubris</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_127">127</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Durnovaria</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_161">161</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Eltabona</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_37">37</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Etocetum</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_61">61</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Garionenum</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_152">152</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Glevum</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_67">67</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Isca Dumnoniorum</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_156">156</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Ischalis</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_154">154</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Ibernium</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_189">189</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Leucomagus</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_64">64</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Lindum</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_88">88</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Lactorodum</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_114">114</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Londinium</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_119">119</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Lapis Tituli</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_131">131</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Lemanis</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_132">132</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Londinis</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_160">160</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Moridunum</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_159">159</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Moriconium</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_190">190</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Mida</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_202">202</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Mantantonis</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_201">201</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Magiovinium</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_115">115</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Margidunum</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_106">106</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Mancunium</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_58">58</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Noviomagus</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_119">119</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Præsidium</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_49">49</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Pennocrucium</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_61">61</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Portus magnus</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_193">193</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Punctuobice</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_144">144</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Pontes</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_205">205</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Rutupiæ</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_124">124</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Regnum</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_190">190</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Ratæ</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_108">108</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Salinis</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_69">69</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Salinæ</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_78">78</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Sorbiodunum</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_182">182</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Suellaniacis</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_118">118</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Tamese</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_43">43</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Tripontium</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_112">112</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Trausantum</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_193">193</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Vindoma</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_177">177</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Verlucio</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_142">142</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Vagniacis</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_120">120</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Verolanium</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_116">116</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Vernometum</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_108">108</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Venta Belgarum</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_191">191</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Vindogladia</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_188">188</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Vainona</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_28">28</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Ypocessa</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_69">69</a></div></td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc pt3"><div>Roman Forts.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Burgh</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_29">29</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Boston</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_16">16</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Spalding</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_14">14</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Wisbech</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_14">14</a>, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Brancaster</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_16">16</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Richborough</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_125">125</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Farnborough</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_204">204</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Many more</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_8">8</a></div></td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc pt3"><div>Roman Camps.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Arbury hill</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_114">114</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Audleyn</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_79">79</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Bury hill</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_43">43</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Bury hill</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_179">179</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Burrough hill</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_113">113</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Barbury</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_140">140</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Badbury</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_140">140</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Badbury</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_140">140</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Badbury</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_189">189</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Castledikes</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_114">114</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Cheselbury</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_135">135</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Cheselbury</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_139">139</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Chloridunum</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_137">137</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Dinder-hill</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_70">70</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Gildsborough</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_38">38</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Hexton</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_77">77</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Honington</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_87">87</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Hamden hill</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_156">156</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Honey ditches</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_159">159</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">By <i>Kingsclere</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_179">179</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Maiden castle</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_162">162</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Martinshall</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_139">139</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Oldbury</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_141">141</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Poundbury</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_162">162</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Ring hill</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_202">202</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>St. Roc’s hill</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_70">70</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Sutton walls</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_79">79</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Vespasian’s camp</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_138">138</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Wodbury</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_189">189</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Yarborough</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_101">101</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Yarnbury</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_137">137</a></div></td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc pt3"><div>Roman remains.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Old Sea-dike</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_13">13</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">The <i>Cardike</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_7">7</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Gate at <i>Lincoln</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_89">89</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">At <i>Canterbury</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_122">122</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Mintwall</i>, at <i>Lincoln</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_89">89</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">At <i>Exeter</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_157">157</a>, <a href="#Page_158">158</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Jewrywall, Leicester</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_109">109</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">At <i>Ariconium</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_70">70</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">At <i>Rochester</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_120">120</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Temples</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>, <a href="#Page_146">146</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Manner of <i>Roman</i> walls</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_89">89</a>, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>, <a href="#Page_120">120</a>, - <a href="#Page_122">122</a>, <a href="#Page_125">125</a>, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>, - <a href="#Page_165">165</a>, <a href="#Page_177">177</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Lolham</i> bridges</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_7">7</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Pharos</i> at <i>Dover</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_129">129</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Their mortar</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_89">89</a>, <a href="#Page_101">101</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Proportion of bricks</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_70">70</a>, <a href="#Page_117">117</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Imbanking of <i>Holland</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_12">12</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Piles of oak</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_105">105</a>, <a href="#Page_109">109</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Amphitheatres</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_125">125</a>, <a href="#Page_163">163</a>, <a href="#Page_164">164</a>, <a href="#Page_178">178</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Julian</i>’s bower</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_95">95</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">The meaning</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_97">97</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Chichester</i> inscription</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_196">196</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Lapis milliaris</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_14">14</a>, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>, <a href="#Page_179">179</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Lares</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a href="#Page_118">118</a>, <a href="#Page_145">145</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Thyrsus</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_31">31</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Antiquities in <i>Holland</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_12">12</a>, <a href="#Page_13">13</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">At <i>Rauceby</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_12">12</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Wells</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Hypocausts</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>, <a href="#Page_123">123</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Coins found</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, - <a href="#Page_48">48</a>, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, - <a href="#Page_60">60</a>, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>, - <a href="#Page_80">80</a>, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>, - <a href="#Page_86">86</a>, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>, <a href="#Page_95">95</a>, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, - <a href="#Page_104">104</a>, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>, <a href="#Page_112">112</a>, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>, - <a href="#Page_116">116</a>, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>, - <a href="#Page_149">149</a>, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>, <a href="#Page_154">154</a>, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>, - <a href="#Page_158">158</a>, <a href="#Page_175">175</a>, <a href="#Page_177">177</a>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>, - <a href="#Page_202">202</a>, <a href="#Page_205">205</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Mosaics</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_47">47</a>, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>, - <a href="#Page_84">84</a>, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>, - <a href="#Page_117">117</a>, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Cæsar’s</i> landing place</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_127">127</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Julia Domna</i>’s head</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_157">157</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Arundel</i> Collection</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><i>Preface</i>, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Runway</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_141">141</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Rumsey</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_191">191</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Ramsgate cliff</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_124">124</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Ravensbank</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_15">15</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Antoninus</i>’s Iter</td> - <td class="tdr"><div> - <table style="text-align: right; margin-right: 0"> - <tbody> - <tr> - <td> VII.</td> - <td rowspan="4" class="rbrace"> </td> - <td rowspan="4">corrected</td> - <td rowspan="4" class="lbrace"> </td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_203">203</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>XIII.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_143">143</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>XIV.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_144">144</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>XV.</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_204">204</a></div></td> - </tr> - </tbody> - </table> - </div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Inscriptions</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_67">67</a>, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>, <a href="#Page_169">169</a></div></td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc pt3"><div>Celtic Antiquities.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Tumuli</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, - <a href="#Page_38">38</a>, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>, <a href="#Page_106">106</a>, - <a href="#Page_107">107</a>, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>, <a href="#Page_118">118</a>, <a href="#Page_127">127</a>, - <a href="#Page_131">131</a>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>, - <a href="#Page_162">162</a>, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>, - <a href="#Page_189">189</a>, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Instruments dug up</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_12">12</a>, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_91">91</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Oppida</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_53">53</a>, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>, <a href="#Page_124">124</a>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>, <a href="#Page_191">191</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Cursus</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_109">109</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Temples</td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_48">48</a>, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>, <a href="#Page_140">140</a>, <a href="#Page_149">149</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Grimesditch</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_47">47</a>, <a href="#Page_179">179</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Flightditch</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_79">79</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Brentditch</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_79">79</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Boundary of the <i>Belgic</i> kingdom</td> - <td class="tdr"><div> - <table style="text-align: right; margin-right: 0"> - <tbody> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>I.</div></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_189">189</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>II.</div></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_187">187</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"><div>III.</div></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_138">138</a></div></td> - </tr> - </tbody> - </table> - </div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">The <i>Wansdike</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div>IV. <a href="#Page_64">64</a>, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>, <a href="#Page_145">145</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">The <i>Albionites</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_189">189</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">These <i>Celtic</i> works ancienter than the <i>Roman</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>, <a href="#Page_188">188</a></div></td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc pt3">British Camps.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Aukbury</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_138">138</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Credon hill</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_70">70</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Bushill</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_77">77</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">By East <i>Hamstead</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_177">177</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Harbury banks</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_78">78</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Maiden bower</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_115">115</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Wilbury</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_77">77</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Warmleighton</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_49">49</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Tadmerton</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_49">49</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Burbich</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_139">139</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Mentaris Æstuarium</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_5">5</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Cavata</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_85">85</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Victius</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_88">88</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Bibroci</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_62">62</a>, <a href="#Page_204">204</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Atrebates</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_202">202</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Nadre</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_135">135</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Antona</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_193">193</a>, <a href="#Page_201">201</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Belgæ</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_135">135</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Dobuni</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_140">140</a>, <a href="#Page_197">197</a></div></td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc pt3"><div>Religious Houses.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Vaudy</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_12">12</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Sempringham</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_12">12</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Skirbec</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_25">25</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Frieston</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_25">25</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Hagnaby</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_29">29</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Crowland</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_32">32</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Northampton</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_37">37</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Bicester</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_43">43</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Tame</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_44">44</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Osney</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_45">45</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Ruleigh</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_45">45</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Godstow</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_46">46</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Chipping Norton</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_48">48</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Dale</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_53">53</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Chester</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_59">59</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Reading</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_62">62</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Marlborough</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_63">63</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Hereford</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_71">71</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Leominster</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_72">72</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Ludlow</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_74">74</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Ramsey</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_81">81</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Nocton</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_88">88</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Kyme</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_88">88</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Barlings</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_88">88</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Bardney</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_88">88</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Tupholme</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_88">88</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Stickswold</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_88">88</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Kirksted</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_88">88</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Revesby</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_88">88</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Risby</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_95">95</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Gokewell</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_95">95</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Thornton</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_100">100</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Leicester</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_109">109</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Sopwell</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_117">117</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Feversham</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_121">121</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Glassenbury</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_151">151</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Cowic</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_158">158</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Exeter</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_158">158</a></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><i>Wimburn</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><div><a href="#Page_190">190</a></div></td> - </tr> - </tbody> - </table> - - <div class="footheader">FOOTNOTES:</div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_1" href="#FNanchor_1" class="label">[1]</a> The late John Ives, Jun. Esq; of Great Yarmouth, F. R. & - A. S. who was possessed of these Plates, kindly lent that of Sir Henry - Spelman for this Edition: the other was re-engraved before the Editor - knew in whose possession they were. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_2" href="#FNanchor_2" class="label">[2]</a> Cum perpetui ferè & asperrimi montes sint versus - occasum.—Baxteri Glossarium, voce <i>Otodini</i>. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_3" href="#FNanchor_3" class="label">[3]</a> At Hall, by Inspruck, salt-rocks, says Mr. Addison in his - Italian Travels. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_4" href="#FNanchor_4" class="label">[4]</a> Cæsar calls Arminius a German general, whose proper name - was <i>Harman</i>, or <i>Herman</i>, which signifies in that language - the General of an Army. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_5" href="#FNanchor_5" class="label">[5]</a> The 6th of August, 1733, I went to meet Mr. Roger Gale - coming from Peterborough. I staid at the Roman road, on that high hill, - they have lately afresh plowed up some of the heath. It is surprizing - to see how thick the fossil shells lay just under the surface, turned - to stone; cockles, muscles, bivalves, whilks, and many more. I measured - the adventitious turf grown over the Roman road: at a breach, it is - almost six inches. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_6" href="#FNanchor_6" class="label">[6]</a> Lolham and Torphall, two royal manors belonging to - Margaret countess of Richmond, who lived at Colliweston, a great old - house at Lolham, which has been moted about. At Torphall the foundation - of an antient tower forty foot square. - - <p>Mr. Samuel Parker gave me, 1735, a silver Antoninus found by the - Cardike on the back of Peterborough minster: the reverse, COS. III. - DES. IIII. Many Roman coins found in digging in the ruins of the - minster.</p> - - <p>At Moreton upon the Cardike, much Roman coin found.</p> - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_7" href="#FNanchor_7" class="label">[7]</a> <i>Cardike</i> is British: <i>Cæirs</i> is <i>palus</i> - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_8" href="#FNanchor_8" class="label">[8]</a> Oslac, ambassador from Athelwolf, king of the West Saxons, - anno 851, to Bertulf, king of Mercia, witness to a charter of Bertulf’s - to Croyland abbey, Ingulf, p. 490. This was done at a parliament held - at Kingsbury, a manor of the kings of Mercia, near Verolanum, and near - where Offa had built the monastery to St Alban. I suppose Oslac, often - mentioned in charters about 966, in Ingulf and others, to be Oslac, in - the time of king Edgar, partner with earl Osul in the government of - Northumberland, by king Edred constituted. His hand is at king Edred’s - charter to Croyland, anno 948; to that of king Edgar, in 966; and to - that of king Edgar to Peterborough, 970. Roger de Hoveden, p. 243. - Oslac, butler to Athelwolf, was a Goth by origin, says Rog. de Hoveden, - descended from Stuf and Withgar, two earls and brothers, who received - the Isle of Wight from their uncle, king Cerdie, and Cinvic his son, - their cousin. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_9" href="#FNanchor_9" class="label">[9]</a> Ralf, or Radinus Scalre, son to Goda, sister to king - Edward: he is buried at Peterborough. Leofric, lord of Brun, was - cousin to him. Earl Rodulf was son to Goda. William Malmsbury, p. 45. - <i>b.</i> Earl Rolf was one of king Edward’s admirals against earl Godwin. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_10" href="#FNanchor_10" class="label">[10]</a> Morcar had these manors following, in the time of - Domesday book: Colstewrde (Colsterworth) Basingheham, Shillington, - Cherchebi (Kirkby) Chime (Kime) Bodebi, Wellingoure, Castre, Cotes, - Barewe, Stroustone, Nort Stoches, Carletune, Bredesthorp, Wes-Bitham, - Bortone, Brune, and Stapleford. - - <p>Bodebi belonged of right to Crowland.</p> - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_11" href="#FNanchor_11" class="label">[11]</a> Morchar, or Macher, as William Malmsbury calls him, son - of Elgar, or Algar, p. 46. <i>b.</i> was made earl of Northumberland; - Tostin, son of Earl Godwin, losing it for his severity: and at the end - of king Edward’s life, Tostin coming out of Flanders to invade the - coasts of Northumberland in a piratical manner, was repelled by the - forces of Morcar, and his brother Edwin. Tostin goes into Scotland, - there meets Harold Harfag, the Norwegian, with three hundred ships - upon an invasion: they agree to join forces, land in Northumberland, - surprise the two brothers overjoyed at their late victory, and shut - them up in York city till king Harold relieved them. - - <p>Tostin, son of earl Godwin, was earl of Northumberland, and turned out, - by instigation of his brother, at the end of Edward the Confessor’s - life, and Morchar made earl in his stead. Morcar, and his elder brother - Edwin, lived there very lovingly together, and when Harold the king was - slain by William the Conqueror, offered themselves to the people, who - might chuse one of them for their king. Harold and they were cousins; - and they were at London at the time of the battle of Hastings: but - William the Conqueror’s fortune prevailed both in getting the battle, - and in getting the kingdom. Afterwards they disturbed the Conqueror by - little inroads and vexations, and were sometimes taken prisoners; yet - he pardoned them, and married them to his relations. At length they - were slain perfidiously by their own men, and the king was much grieved - at their death.</p> - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_12" href="#FNanchor_12" class="label">[12]</a> Hereward married Turfrida in Flanders. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_13" href="#FNanchor_13" class="label">[13]</a> The Duke of Ancaster, 1726, showed me a large brass - Hadrian, but defaced, dug up in his garden, near the <i>tumulus</i> at - the end: he says more coins have been found about the stone pits in - the park. That <i>tumulus</i> perhaps was the burial-place of Grime, - who denominated the place Grimsthorp, or Grime’s farm, probably some - great Saxon, or Dane. I observe there are a few more <i>tumuli</i> upon - hills hereabouts, as one on the heath by Corby. I think the country - hereabouts extremely fine and delightful: an excellent kind of stone is - dug up in Grimsthorp park; and here and there a vein of good marble of - a darkish colour: the blueish marble lies uppermost in a bed of about - four foot; then a bed of twenty foot thick, of an excellent whitish - stone, with reddish veins where they can cut blocks of any dimensions. - Anno 1731, in digging in the court yard, they found an old brass seal, - a coat of arms, two bars ermine; the epigraphe, as well as I could make - it out, thus: - - <figure> - <img class="illowp60" src="images/i_012.png" alt="SEEL. DES. OBLIGATCIONS. DE. RCE."> - </figure> - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_14" href="#FNanchor_14" class="label">[14]</a> Later, about 1701 or 1702. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_15" href="#FNanchor_15" class="label">[15]</a> At Grantford, by March, 1732, several Roman urns found. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_16" href="#FNanchor_16" class="label">[16]</a> Holbech seems to have been <i>Holbergh</i>, as Wisbech - <i>Wousbergh</i>. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_17" href="#FNanchor_17" class="label">[17]</a> Anno 1727, at Walpole, by the side of Wisbech river, - abundance of Roman aqueducts were dug up, and Roman bricks, &c. and Mr. - Colburn, minister there, sent me an aqueduct. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_18" href="#FNanchor_18" class="label">[18]</a> Wisbech is called <i>Wiseberch</i>, i. e. burgh, in king - Wulfhere’s charter to Peterburgh. Mr. Peck’s Ant. Stanf. p. 21. Many - Roman aqueducts dug up at Wisbech castle, when they built the present - structure, as Mr. Beaupre Bell tells me; such as were found at Walpole, - whereof I have one. William the Conqueror built a castle upon the Roman work. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_19" href="#FNanchor_19" class="label">[19]</a> No less than eight canoos were found in draining - Martin mere. Dr. Leigh’s <i>Lancaster</i>. A moss-deer’s skeleton - found fourteen foot under ground in the fens by the river Witham, - Lincolnshire. I saw part of a moss-deer’s horn at the Society in - Peterborough, found in the fens there. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_20" href="#FNanchor_20" class="label">[20]</a> The bed wherein Margaret lay, has since been removed to a - farm-house by the fen-side, called Wrigbolt, where I have seen it. It - is a very old-fashioned oak bed with panels of odd embossed work, like - many we see in old country houses. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_21" href="#FNanchor_21" class="label">[21]</a> Pliny says they eat ducks in Britain as a great delicacy. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_22" href="#FNanchor_22" class="label">[22]</a> Radulfus de Holbech officium custod. resignat, & resumit - locum focii ap. Æd. Petri Cant. 1349. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_23" href="#FNanchor_23" class="label">[23]</a> Algar the Count, called the Younger, with his two - stewards, Wibert and Leofric, who gave names to these three towns, - Algarkirk, Wiberton, Leverton, with other warriors, obtained a great - victory over the Danes, anno 870. (Chron. Joan. Abb. S. Petri de Burgo, - ed. a Spark, p 15. from Ingulf) but were slain the next day. 9 Ed. I. - Ranulf de Rye obtained of the king a licence for a market every week, - on the Monday, at his manor of Gosberchurch, and free warren there, - as at his lands at Swinflete, Quadavering, Donington, Iwardby, and Housthorp. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_24" href="#FNanchor_24" class="label">[24]</a> Thoroton’s Hist. of Nott. gives part of this Pedigree, p. 174. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_25" href="#FNanchor_25" class="label">[25]</a> That monument in the church-yard was probably that of St. - Botulphus, who was buried in this town, and famous for miracles before - and after death. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_26" href="#FNanchor_26" class="label">[26]</a> The old church, built after the Danish devastation in - 870, was of Turketil’s raising, who died 975. The new part of Crowland - abbey was built in 1114. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_27" href="#FNanchor_27" class="label">[27]</a> The names of Croyland bells are mentioned by Ingulf, - p. 505. <i>b</i>. The first was made by Turketil, <i>Guthlac</i> the - greatest: the five others were made by his successor, abbot Egelric; - <i>Bartholomew</i>, <i>Bettelin</i>, <i>Turketyl</i>, <i>Tatwin</i>, - <i>Pega</i> and <i>Bega</i>. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_28" href="#FNanchor_28" class="label">[28]</a> The abbot of Croyland’s chair is at Mr. Dove’s seat - at Upton by Peterborough, a descendant of bishop Dove’s: upon it, - <span class="allsmcap">BENEDICITE FONTES DN̄O</span>. I suppose the abbot’s name was - <i>Fountain</i>. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_29" href="#FNanchor_29" class="label">[29]</a> St. Guthlake’s hermitage ruins pulled down about 1720. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_30" href="#FNanchor_30" class="label">[30]</a> The triangular bridge of Croyland is mentioned in the - time of king Edred, anno 948. St. Guthlake’s cross, Plate XI. was - set up by abbot Thurketil a little before that time.—Ingulf, p. 497. <i>b.</i> - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_31" href="#FNanchor_31" class="label">[31]</a> Of these crosses thus Walsingham, Hist. Angl. anno 1291. - Dura (rex) finibus Scotiæ, &c. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_32" href="#FNanchor_32" class="label">[32]</a> Grantham and Stamford were two stages. Mr. Howgrave says - there was a queen’s cross at Stanford; and the like is affirmed of - Grantham, and that it stood in the open place in the London road: and - I saw a stone, carved with foliage work, said to be part of it; and - I believe it, seeming of that sort of work: if so, then Newark and - Leicester must be left out, and they travelled with the queen’s corpse - by way of Oundle to Geddington from Stanford, I suppose the present - London road from Stanford being unpassable, or not having at that time - royal seats, manors, or abbeys, by the way, sufficient to entertain - the cavalcade. Mr. Peck, in his Stanford Antiquities, asserts Grantham - and Stanford two of the stages, and where crosses were erected, no - doubt, that at Grantham flood in the open London road before my - neighbour Hacket’s house, called Peter-church hill; and the people have - some memory of it. Mr. Peck puts in Woburn between Dunstable and St. - Alban’s; upon what authority I know not.—Geddington was a manor of the - king’s, V. Regist. Hon. Richmond, p. 280.—Camden in his Remains, p. - 208, who doubtless had seen them, inserts Grantham and Stanford, V. p. 116. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_33" href="#FNanchor_33" class="label">[33]</a> At Naseby, round the font an inscription, ΝΙΨΟΝ - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_34" href="#FNanchor_34" class="label">[34]</a> The Rev. Mr. Bertie of Uffington gave me 1735, several - Roman coins found in this city; a very fair silver Hadrian, <span class="allsmcap">IMP. - CÆSAR TRAIAN HADRIANVS AVG.</span> reverse, a sitting figure. <span class="allsmcap">PM TRP COS. III.</span> - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_35" href="#FNanchor_35" class="label">[35]</a> Jan. 1718, between Broadwel and Stow in the Wold, - Gloucestershire, a countryman digging a ditch to divide a pasture, - found an urn of a green colour: at top it had foliage work; in it - thirty pound weight of copper Roman coin, which he sold for six-pence - per pound. About a dozen were sent to Dr. Mead, of Constans, - Constantine, and Magnentius. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_36" href="#FNanchor_36" class="label">[36]</a> <i>Acha</i>, in Irish, is a dike, mound, or bank. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_37" href="#FNanchor_37" class="label">[37]</a> The countess of Warwick was abbess here. <i>Tiber.</i> B. - XIII. 5. Bibl. Cotton. is her elegium. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_38" href="#FNanchor_38" class="label">[38]</a> Holinshed, in his Hist. Engl. p. 92. says a stone trough - full of Roman coin was found at Grantham forty years before: he there - gives an account of the golden helmet, &c. found at Harlaxton. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_39" href="#FNanchor_39" class="label">[39]</a> The castle was in the close by the river east of the - church: people alive remember foundations of it being dug up. I saw - this year, 1726, a large brass Antoninus coin, found near Slade mill, - in possession of Mrs. Vincent. Some think the castle was at Captain - Hacket’s house, and that it was John of Gaunt’s castle, who had a manor - here: however, great foundations are at the place, and arches have been - taken up by the Captain; whether belonging to that manor house, castle, - or the adjoining St. Peter’s church, now demolished, I know not. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_40" href="#FNanchor_40" class="label">[40]</a> It is a mistake I was led into by the vulgar opinion of - the people of Grantham: Mr. Stokes was master of the school in Sir - Isaac’s time. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_41" href="#FNanchor_41" class="label">[41]</a> 1726, I saw the tomb-stone of this Robert new dug up, in - a stable where was the priory chapel: - - <figure class="mb0"> - <img class="illowp50" src="images/i_052.png" alt="ROBERT DE TODĒILE FVDEVR"> - </figure> - - wrote in large letters with lead cast in them. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_42" href="#FNanchor_42" class="label">[42]</a> I have a brass Claudius, found in Grantham, reverse, - <span class="smcap">ceres avgvsta</span>, struck on occasion of that universal dearth - mentioned by St. Luke. Josephus takes notice of it, Ant. Jud. III. 18. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_43" href="#FNanchor_43" class="label">[43]</a> It contains 26,586 principal wheels, any one of which - may be stopped separately, and independent of the rest: one regulator - governs the whole work. It works 73,728 yards of silk every time the - water-wheel goes round, which is thrice in a minute; 318,504,960 yards - of silk in a day and night. A girl of eleven years old does the work of - thirty-five persons. One chimney conveys warm air into every room. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_44" href="#FNanchor_44" class="label">[44]</a> Walter Laci gave to the canons of Lanthony the whole - valley where the abbey was situate, viz. from Kenentesset and - Askareswey, by the <i>Rudgewey</i>, to Antefin, and from Haterell, from - the land of Sesil Fitzgilbert, by the <i>Ruggewey</i>, to the bounds of Talgarth. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_45" href="#FNanchor_45" class="label">[45]</a> An account of these shells in Phil. Trans. p. 427. V. II. - Mr. collector Terry tells me they find here vast quantities of - antediluvian fir-trees, and peat very deep in the earth: amongst it, - a large hollow gold ring, an inch and a half diameter; and a broad - thick coin of base gold, full of strange unknown characters on both - sides, sold to a goldsmith there; probably an invaluable curiosity. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_46" href="#FNanchor_46" class="label">[46]</a> At Frilsham, a Roman villa by <i>ad Spinam</i>, a Roman - altar dug up, dedicated to Jupiter, 1730, in the earl of Abingdon’s grounds. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_47" href="#FNanchor_47" class="label">[47]</a> At Froxfield, south of Ramesbury, upon the <i>via - Trinobantica</i>, a Roman villa discovered anno 1724. under a wood - two Mosaic pavements. Lord Winchelsea has the drawings of them. Many - antiquities found here. - - <p>Howhill near here.</p> - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_48" href="#FNanchor_48" class="label">[48]</a> <i>Lod</i> and <i>Lud</i>, &c. is a general name for - rivers. The river <i>Loddon</i> runs into the Thames between Reading - and Henley. <i>Loddon</i>, the name of a town upon a rivulet running - into the Yare near Yarmouth, Norfolk. <i>Lutton</i>, in Holland, - Lincolnshire, where all the drains of the country meet. <i>Ludlow</i>, - and <i>Ludford</i> near it, from the river. <i>Lidston</i>, in - Devonshire, and <i>Lidford</i>, anciently a large town upon the - river <i>Lid</i>, a branch of the Tamar. <i>Lidbury</i>, upon the - river <i>Liden</i>, Herefordshire. River <i>Lid</i>, in Cumberland. - <i>Lidesdale</i>, <i>Loder</i>, in Westmoreland. <i>Luda</i> river and - town (Louth) Lincolnshire. <i>Ludham</i>, upon a river in Norfolk. - <i>Lug</i>, in Herefordshire, a river of note. <i>Loghor</i>, a - river in Glamorganshire. Hence <i>Luguballia</i>, <i>Lugotitia</i>, - <i>Ludgate</i>, &c. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_49" href="#FNanchor_49" class="label">[49]</a> Wm. of Malmsbury, p. 65 tells a story he had from this Walkerius. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_50" href="#FNanchor_50" class="label">[50]</a> - <div class="center-container"> - <div class="poetry" lang="la"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0"><i>In longas orbem qui secuere vias.</i> <span class="fright"><span class="smcap">Ovid.</span> Amor. II. 16.</span></div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_51" href="#FNanchor_51" class="label">[51]</a> Among the old Egyptians, Herodotus tells us, - (<i>Euterpe</i>) one sort of soldiers was called <i>Hermotybiæ</i>; - latui <i>arma</i>. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_52" href="#FNanchor_52" class="label">[52]</a> The Roman station between London and Hertford (I suppose - they had one every ten miles, if conveniently it could be) was probably - at Cheshunt, anciently <i>Cestrehunt</i>; and it is likely there was a - fortification there. Wadesmill retains the name of <i>Vadum</i>. - - <p>It is very easy to discern where the old Roman road becomes the present - road northward, by the alteration of its direction, near a little rill - between Wadesmill and Ware. Wadesmill was a Roman ford, <i>vadum</i>, - <i>wath</i>; whence its name: and from hence the Roman road is the - common one, or post road, to Chesterton, or <i>Durobrivæ</i>, upon the - river Nen.</p> - - <p>K. Edward senior, in 909, the 9th year of his reign, built a castle - there, says H. Hunt; where it is printed <i>Herefordiam</i> instead of - <i>Hertfordiam</i>. <i>Castrum non immensum, sed pulcherrimum, inter - Beneficiam</i> (the Bean) <i>& Mimera & Luge flumina, &c.</i></p> - - <p>Cestrehunt, Cheshunt, is <i>via ad castrum</i>. <i>Huynt</i>, - <i>hynt</i>, is in Welsh a gang, or road, a by-road, short road.</p> - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_53" href="#FNanchor_53" class="label">[53]</a> Vast quantities of coins found at Gamlingay, as I am told - by Mr. Peck. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_54" href="#FNanchor_54" class="label">[54]</a> June 11, 1729, Mr. Welby of Denton tells me, Gardiner, - who keeps the Crown inn at <i>Camboritum</i>, lately found many Roman - coins there, and sells them for four pence a piece. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_55" href="#FNanchor_55" class="label">[55]</a> Dr. Brady, in his History of England, p. 48. mentions - this city. Hollingshed, p. 92. <i>b.</i> of his History of England, - says a gate of it was standing in his time. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_56" href="#FNanchor_56" class="label">[56]</a> <i>Et</i> camuris <i>hirtæ sub cornibus aures.</i> - <span class="smcap">Virg.</span> G. III. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_57" href="#FNanchor_57" class="label">[57]</a> The chalk ends about two miles north of Baldoc and Royston. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_58" href="#FNanchor_58" class="label">[58]</a> The market-place at Royston is a large square area, - seemingly of Roman design. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_59" href="#FNanchor_59" class="label">[59]</a> Probably Roisia, wife to Pagan de Beauchamp, Baron 3d - of Bedford, who built the castle of Bedford about the time of the Conquest. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_60" href="#FNanchor_60" class="label">[60]</a> May 15, 1732, I rode between Huntingdon and Cambridge, - and discovered evidently that it was a Roman road all the way, pointing - strait from Godmanchester to Cambridge castle. When I told this to - Mr. Roger Gale, then at Cotenham, he said, he had observed that Roman - road which lies on Gogmagog hills to point likewise upon Cambridge - castle; so that the ford at Cambridge river is originally Roman: and - undoubtedly there was a Roman town at Cambridge, for the conveniency - of passengers and armies between the <i>Iceni</i> and the northern - parts beyond Huntingdon. I apprehend Chesterton and Grantchester were - Roman forts and repositories of corn from this country, to be sent to - Peterborough, and so by the Cardike into the north: and from the bridge - at Cambridge, Bridge street and St. Andrew’s street are continuations, - in a very strait line and direction, of the Roman road. - - <p>July, 1742, Mr. collector Collins showed me several Roman coins, - curious and fair, both silver and large brass, found lately at - Gormanchester; Hadrian, Antoninus, Severus.</p> - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_61" href="#FNanchor_61" class="label">[61]</a> The Saxon word <i>stiff</i> seems to be the same - with the Greek στιβαρος, from στιβειν, to stiffen, <i>durare</i>, - <i>roborare</i>; στυφεω to stiffen, <i>cogere</i>, <i>constringere</i>: - but which is the primitive, I shall not determine. There are many large - <i>tumuli</i>, by the road-side, at Little and Great Stukeley: so one - at the town-end of Stilton northwards, and another on the top of the - next hill northward by the road. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_62" href="#FNanchor_62" class="label">[62]</a> Sir Robert Cotton bought the whole room from Foderinghay - castle, wherein Mary queen of Scots was beheaded, and set it up here. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_63" href="#FNanchor_63" class="label">[63]</a> Durobrivis was at that Roman work by the river side - in Chesterton parish. Allerton, hard by, was anciently wrote - <i>Aldwalton</i>, <i>Aldwarkton</i>. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_64" href="#FNanchor_64" class="label">[64]</a> The Castle field was walled about: perhaps this was - originally one of the forts upon the <i>Antona</i>, built by A. - Plautius before the Roman road was made. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_65" href="#FNanchor_65" class="label">[65]</a> Castre is called a royal manor, Ingulf, p. 497. - - <p>It seems likely to me that Kimbolton was the town where Boadicia lived; - <i>Kiseni pant</i>, the Icenian valley; as she was making homewards, - she was met by the Romans at Ravensden, or the Roman valley, where - the battle was fought; and that they buried her at Reynold, where - the circular antiquity is, by the road side between Bedford and St. - Neot’s. It lies near the meadow, and seems to be a British place for - celebration of sports.</p> - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_66" href="#FNanchor_66" class="label">[66]</a> Mr. Parker, supervisor of excise, gave me a silver - <i>Domitian</i> found at Castor; re<span class="allsmcap">DIANA</span>, as usual. I - saw a good brass <i>Galba</i> found there. - - <p>I have a silver <i>Hadrian</i> found at the true <i>Durobrivis</i>, - Chesterton; re<span class="allsmcap">COS. III.</span></p> - - <p>Anno 1731 the people of Bernac dug up some urns, with coins in them, - near the Roman road passing through that parish. Mr. Archdeacon Payn - showed me a brass <i>Magnentius</i>: there were many urns, coins, a - brass <i>fibula</i>, tweezers, &c. dug up. I suppose it was a family - burying-place of the Roman villa at Walcot.</p> - - <p>Mr. Terry, collector, gave me a good brass <i>Vespasian</i>, reverse - <span class="allsmcap">AVGVSTI</span>, found at Uffington.</p> - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_67" href="#FNanchor_67" class="label">[67]</a> <i>Wansford</i> is <i>Avonsford</i>. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_68" href="#FNanchor_68" class="label">[68]</a> Many Roman coins found at Wilsthorp, upon the old - Hermen-street: it was a Roman station, being the same distance from - <i>Durobrivis</i> on the old street, as Brigcasterton on the new. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_69" href="#FNanchor_69" class="label">[69]</a> I have several brass coins, found in the fields by - Ryhall, in the neighbourhood of Brigcasterton; particularly a large - <i>Nero</i>, of Corinthian brass; reverse, <span class="allsmcap">VICTORIA AVGVSTI</span>: - another; reverse, a victory <span class="allsmcap">S. C.</span> a <i>Trajan</i>, of - Corinthian brass; reverse, <span class="allsmcap">CERES. S. C.</span> <i>Maximian</i>, - reverse, <span class="allsmcap">GENIO POP. ROM.</span> <i>Constantinus Aug.</i> reverse, - <span class="allsmcap">PRINCIPI JUVENTUT.</span> exergue PLN. percussa Londini Constans - Felix temp. repar. Nerva. <i>Trajan</i>; reverse, <span class="allsmcap">COS. IIII. P. - P.</span> <i>Claud Gothicus</i>. - - <p>Mr. Beaupre Bell gave me a fair <i>Sev. Pertinax</i>, middle brass, - found in Tickencote lane.</p> - - <p>I saw a silver <i>denarius</i> of Pompey, found in Castreton field, - 1733, the first in second plate of Patin’s famil. Rom. Pompeia.</p> - - <p>I have a middle-sized brass coin of Nero, found at Brigcasterton, <span class="allsmcap">S - P Q R</span> stamped on the neck. I saw a large <i>Severus Pertinax</i>, - brass, found there, Mr. Foden’s. Dec. 7, 1731. Lord Ganesborough showed - me a fair large brass <i>Divo Antonino</i>, reverse, the Antonine - column, dug up in Exton church-yard.</p> - - <p>Pickworth church, to the right, was burnt down, together with the then - populous town, by the rebels in Henry the Seventh’s time; and all now - lies in ruins. At the same time Hornfield and Hardwick demolished. - Pickworth steeple, a very fine spire, and seen all round the country, - was taken down about A. D. 1728, to build a sorry bridge at Wakerley. I - saw the lower part of the steeple anno 1731, when it was pulled down to - build a bridge by Casterton. There was a pretty church and an ancient - one at Ingthorp, now turned into a dwelling-house.</p> - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_70" href="#FNanchor_70" class="label">[70]</a> Sir Isaac was born at Wolsthorp, a hamlet of - Colsterworth. Some part of the high dike remains perfect enough in the - fields over-against Colsterworth. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_71" href="#FNanchor_71" class="label">[71]</a> A silver <i>Trajan</i>, found by the high dike in - ditching near the Woodnolk in Little Paunton parish, was sent by Madam - Eyre, of Eastwell, to Lady Oxford. - - <p>Many Roman coins found at Strawston, in possession of my neighbour - Andrew Hacket, esq. and vaults dug up there: it is near Paunton.</p> - - <p>William de Vesci gave the church of Ancaster to the nuns at Walton; to - the knights Templars he gave the churches of Cathorp and Normanton; - to the canons of Sempringham, and nuns of Ormsby, the hermitage at - Spaldingholme.</p> - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_72" href="#FNanchor_72" class="label">[72]</a> The name of <i>Kesteven</i> undoubtedly came from - <i>Causennis</i>; but Brigcasterton is really out of that division: - Paunton is in the midway of it. Many arched vaults under ground about - Paunton Magna: in one of them some coiners lodged for some weeks. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_73" href="#FNanchor_73" class="label">[73]</a> Mrs. Woodward gave me a silver <i>Antoninus</i> upon his - consecration, found at Ancaster: she says, one morning she was there, a - labourer brought home a dozen Roman coins just then found. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_74" href="#FNanchor_74" class="label">[74]</a> Roman coins are found at Thistleton, near Post Witham, - and at Market Overton: two large <i>tumuli</i> in a valley, near a - division-dike, on that beautiful plain called Saltby heath. - - <p>I saw a fine brass <i>Alexander</i>, Roman; reverse, - <span class="allsmcap">PROVIDENTIA</span>, a Genius with a <i>cornucopia</i> and ear of corn.</p> - - <p>A mile off Stretton, between Stamford and Grantham, between Stretton - and Market Overton, is a place called the Holmes, where they find vast - quantities of Roman coins. Mr. Parker, supervisor, gave me several, of - the low empire: after a shower of rain, on the ploughed ground, they - find them plentifully. No doubt but this was a Roman town. I viewed - it with Mr. Baron Clark, of Scotland, May 30, 1733: it is a villa, or - shepherd’s town, upon a delightful plain: there is an old well, which - is new scoured, and the foundation of a wall that inclosed a kind of a - court: it is near Thistleton.</p> - - <p>Mr. William Annis gave me a brass <i>Magnentius</i>, found at - Honington; re<span class="allsmcap">FELICITAS REIPUELICÆ</span>.</p> - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_75" href="#FNanchor_75" class="label">[75]</a> A Roman Mosaic pavement found in the fields above Denton, - February 1727–8, of which I sent an account to the Royal Society. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <figure class="figright illowp10"> - <img src="images/i_088.jpg" alt=""> - </figure> - - <a id="Footnote_76" href="#FNanchor_76" class="label">[76]</a> I saw in possession of Mr. Terry of Lincoln, found at - Ledenham, a Corinthian brass coin obliterated, with three holes bored in it. - - <p>Over the parson’s gate of Ledenham an inscription of the famous John Dee, minister here.</p> - </div> - - <div class="footnote clear"> - <a id="Footnote_77" href="#FNanchor_77" class="label">[77]</a> Ninnius says, Vortimer the British prince was buried here. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_78" href="#FNanchor_78" class="label">[78]</a> The castle of Lincoln was made by the Saxon kings, - repaired by William the Conqueror. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_79" href="#FNanchor_79" class="label">[79]</a> Captain Pownal gave me a brass <i>Fausta</i>, wife of - Constantine, found in a barrow near Lincoln, <span class="allsmcap">SPES</span>. - - <p>Mr. S. Buck gave me a Crispus Nob. C. brass, found in the rubbish of a - house, reverse, <span class="allsmcap">BEATA TRANQUILLITAS P L C.</span> struck at Lincoln.</p> - - <p>Captain Pownal told me they found coins, scatteringly, as they dug up a - Roman <i>tumulus</i> near Lincoln, anno 1727.</p> - - <p>Sept. 2, 1731, I accompanied Mr. Roger Gale, in his journey to - Yorkshire, as far as Lincoln, (Dr. Knight of Bluntsham with us) just - before they had dug up the foundation of the Roman east gate toward - Banovallum: the stones exceeding large, cramped with iron. Lord - Burlington was present.</p> - - <p>This summer they found two Roman tombs by the quarries on the same - Banovallum road; four great stones set together like a coffin, and - one on the top: there were in it the bones of a man, with urns, - lacrymatories, and coins.</p> - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_80" href="#FNanchor_80" class="label">[80]</a> More brass <i>armillæ</i> in the <i>tumuli</i>. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_81" href="#FNanchor_81" class="label">[81]</a> All the fields about Allington, Fosston, &c. are covered - over with petrified shells of a particular kind of oyster; they call - them there crow-stones. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_82" href="#FNanchor_82" class="label">[82]</a> So <i>Sedetani</i>, a people of Spain, in Silius are - called <i>Hedetani</i>; by Ptolemy, <i>Segesta</i>, a town in Sicily, - <i>Egesta</i>, &c. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_83" href="#FNanchor_83" class="label">[83]</a> I saw a coin found here, brass, of Claudius; reverse, a - soldier with a shield throwing the pile. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_84" href="#FNanchor_84" class="label">[84]</a> The countess of Warwick, whose maiden name was Wray, gave - the manor to Magdalen college, Cambridge. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_85" href="#FNanchor_85" class="label">[85]</a> ——<i>Partes ubi se via findit in ambas.</i> - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_86" href="#FNanchor_86" class="label">[86]</a> June 7. 1732, Mr. John Ash showed me some Roman coins - found at Ludford by Market Raisin, where he says they find very many: - it is fourteen miles from Lincoln, and probably a Roman station upon - the Fossway going toward the sea: the coins were of Constantius Cl. - Gothicus, &c. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_87" href="#FNanchor_87" class="label">[87]</a> In Bede it is called <i>Tunnaceaster</i>, from Tunna the - owner, a Saxon, IIII. 22. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_88" href="#FNanchor_88" class="label">[88]</a> The <i>Thane</i> was a <i>count</i>, or minister of the - king. Tong castle, in Shropshire, upon the head of the Severn. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_89" href="#FNanchor_89" class="label">[89]</a> Near Stanford, in old writings, the Hermen street is - sometimes called the Foss. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_90" href="#FNanchor_90" class="label">[90]</a> Vide Ogilby’s Survey, [p. 207]. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_91" href="#FNanchor_91" class="label">[91]</a> Godfrid abbot of Peterborough built a new roof and chapel - at Collingham, which cost him 57l. 15s. 1d. says Walter Whittlesey, - [p. 162]. this was about 1316. July 10, 1729, the reverend Mr. Welby - of Scaleford gave me a coin or two, Roman, found near the Foss at - Crocolana; one remarkably corroded, seemingly of Corinthian brass. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_92" href="#FNanchor_92" class="label">[92]</a> Turketil Hoche gave it, says Hugo Candidus. - - <p>I saw two Roman coins found at Crocolana, 28. Apr. 1728. There is a - long old wall.</p> - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_93" href="#FNanchor_93" class="label">[93]</a> April 28, 1728, I saw at Newark two Roman coins, lately - found at Brough: they say there is a long old wall there. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_94" href="#FNanchor_94" class="label">[94]</a> Mr. Twells of Newark sent me four Roman coins dug up in - the fields by Newark; a Magnentius, pretty fair; reverse, P. Antoninus - Pius; two large Trajans, but defaced. - - <p>I guess Newark was built in the later Roman times, for its - commodiousness upon the Trent, and exhausted the neighbouring Brough: - both being destroyed by the plundering Danes, perhaps were repaired in - after-ages, and called Newark.</p> - - <p>My cousin, Edmund Dickenson esq. gave me a large brass Verus found in - Newark fields, 1729, obliterated; an Hadrian found there.</p> - - <p>Oct. 7. 1731, I satisfied myself that this was the long-sought-for - episcopal see called <i>Sidnacester</i>.</p> - - <p>I saw a gold Gratian, reverse, <span class="allsmcap">VICTORIA AUG. G.</span> found at - Thoroton; in my brother Collins’s possession. The rev. Mr. Guy, of Long - Benington, says they find Roman coins in the fields thereabouts.</p> - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_95" href="#FNanchor_95" class="label">[95]</a> Newark castle built by Alexander bishop of Lincoln. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_96" href="#FNanchor_96" class="label">[96]</a> April 17, 1730, I heard, in the neighbourhood, - of Roman pavements dug up there, and coins. Burton, in his - <i>Leicestershire</i>, speaks of antiquities found here. - - <p>Upon the Foss-way hereabouts was found a large and fine medallion of - Corinthian brass inclosed with wax: among other coins, the head of the - emperor <span class="allsmcap">M. ANTONINUS AUG. TRP. XXVII.</span> reverse, the head of his - son <span class="allsmcap">COMMODUS CÆS. GERM. ANTONINI AUG. GERM. FIL.</span> it is of that - kind of medals called <i>contorniati</i>. I think it was found in an - urn, with a coin or two more.</p> - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_97" href="#FNanchor_97" class="label">[97]</a> At this camp of <i>Vernometum</i>, as in divers others, - the two <i>brachia</i> advancing inwards of the gate, verge a little to - the left: the design of it, as I apprehend, is to expose so much the - more the right side of an enemy entering, who have their shields on - their left. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_98" href="#FNanchor_98" class="label">[98]</a> A Roman pavement found, 1721, at Medburn cum Holt, near - Harborough, Leicestershire. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_99" href="#FNanchor_99" class="label">[99]</a> Mr. Lee of Leicester informs me of a Roman urn, in his - possession, found at High-cross; digging for a vault in the church, for - the late lord Denbigh, they found a dozen of them covered with Roman bricks. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_100" href="#FNanchor_100" class="label">[100]</a> <i>Cincl squit, natio Guidelia</i>, the Irish nation: so - they now call themselves. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_101" href="#FNanchor_101" class="label">[101]</a> Near Bensford bridge and Lutterworth, a vast quantity - of silver Roman coins found anno 1725, now in possession of Mr. Walter - Reynolds, steward to lord Denbygh of Lutterworth. I saw many of Trajan, - Hadrian, Nerva, Vespasian, two large brass Trajans. Feb. 9. 1726, I saw - the following in silver. - - <table class="small"> - <tbody> - <tr> - <td>Vespasianus Aug.</td> - <td><i>reverse</i>, Judæa. <i>A prisoner under a trophy</i></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>————————</td> - <td>pon. max. tr. p. cos. <span class="smcap overline">v.</span> <i>A caduceus.</i></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Vesp. Aug. imp. Cæsar</td> - <td>pontif. maxim. <i>A caduceus.</i></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Imp. Cæs. Vesp. Aug. Cen.</td> - <td>pontif. max sedens cum hasta in dex. flore in læva</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Vespasianus Cæsar</td> - <td><span style="padding-left: 3.3em;"><i>a sow and three pigs.</i> imp. <span class="smcap">iii.</span></span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Imp. Cæs. Ner. Trajan optm. Aug. Ger. &c.</td> - <td><i>rev.</i> p. m. tr. p. cos. S. p. q. r. <i>A genius of plenty</i></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Imp. Cæs. Nerva Trajan Aug. Germ.</td> - <td>pont. max. tr. pot. cos. <span class="smcap">ii.</span> Genius sedens</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Imp. Cæs. Nerva Trajan Aug. Germ.</td> - <td>p. m. tr. p. cos. <span class="smcap overline">iiii.</span> p. f. <i>A genius of plenty</i></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Imp. Cæs. Trajan</td> - <td>p. m. tr. p. cos. <span class="smcap">ii.</span> justitia. Genius sedens</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Trajano Aug. Ger. Dac.</td> - <td>S. p. q. r. opt. principi. <i>Genius of plenty.</i></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Imp. Trajano Aug. Ger. Dac. p. m. tr. p.</td> - <td>cos. v. p. p. s. p. q. r. opt. princ. Genius cum pavone</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Trajano Aug. Ger. Dac. p. m. tr. p. cos. <span class="smcap">ii.</span> p. p.</td> - <td>S. p. q. r. optimo principi. Mars gradivus</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Imp. Trajano Aug. Ger. Dac. p. m. tr. p. cos. <span class="smcap">v.</span> p. p.</td> - <td>S. p. q. r. optimo principi. Genius sacrificans</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Imp. Trajano Aug. Ger. Dac. p. m. tr. p. cos. <span class="smcap">vi.</span> p. p.</td> - <td>S. p. q. r. optimo principi. Columna Trajana</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="allsmcap">ANTXAICNETPAIANOCCEBTEPM</span></td> - <td><span class="xsmall" style="padding-left: 5.5em;">4</span><br>ΔΗΜΕΣ <span class="smcap">iiiii</span><br><span class="xsmall" style="padding-left: 5.3em;">0 0</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Imp. Trajano Aug. Ger. Dac. p. m. tr. p. cos. <span class="smcap">v.</span> p. p.</td> - <td>S. p. q. r. optimo principi. Genius cum bilance</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Imp. Trajano Aug. Ger. Dac. p. m. tr. p. cos. <span class="smcap">vi.</span> p. p.</td> - <td>S. p. q. r. optimo principi. Genius cum puero</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Imp. Trajano Aug. Ger Dac. p. m. tr. p.</td> - <td>cos. <span class="smcap">vi.</span> p. p. s. p. q. r. opt pr. Vesta sed. cum victoriola</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Imp. Trajano Aug. Ger. Dac. p. m. tr. p.</td> - <td>cos. <span class="smcap">v.</span> p. p. s. p. q. r. opt. pr. Genius stans cum prora</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Imp. Cæsar Trajan Hadrianus Aug.</td> - <td>p. m. tr. p. cos. <span class="smcap">iii.</span> Genius cum caduceo</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Imp. Cæsar Trajan Hadrianus Aug.</td> - <td>p. m. tr. p. cos. <span class="smcap">iii.</span> <i>A female in the posture of imploring</i></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Hadrianus Aug. cos. m. p. p.</td> - <td>salus Aug. Hygeia</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Hadrianus Augustus</td> - <td>cos. <span class="smcap">iii.</span> Genius armatus sedens</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Imp. Cæsar Trajan Hadrianus Aug.</td> - <td>p. m. tr. p. cos. <span class="smcap">iii.</span> <i>a genius with two bustos in her hands</i></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Hadrianus Aug. cos. <span class="smcap">iii.</span> p. p.</td> - <td>Africa Genia Nili procumbens</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Imp. Cæsar Trajan Hadrianus Aug.</td> - <td>p. m. tr. p. cos. <span class="smcap">iii.</span> Genius sedens sacrificans</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Imp. Cæsar Trajan Hadrianus Aug.</td> - <td>p. m. tr. p. cos. Fortuna sedens cum prora</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Imp. Cæsar Trajan Hadrianus Aug.</td> - <td>p. m. tr. p. cos. <span class="smcap">iii.</span> Genius nudus sacrificans</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Hadrianus Augustus</td> - <td>cos. <span class="smcap">iii.</span> Hercules sedens cum victoriola</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>—————————</td> - <td>————Victoria sedens</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Imp. Cæsar Trajan Hadrianus Aug.</td> - <td>p. m. tr. p. cos. <span class="smcap">iii.</span> Fortuna stans</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Hadrianus Aug. cos. <span class="smcap">iii.</span> p. p.</td> - <td>moneta Aug. Genius cum bilance</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Imp. Cæsar Trajan Hadrianus Aug.</td> - <td>p. m. tr. p. cos. <span class="smcap">iii.</span> salus. Hygeia sedens</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>————————————————————</td> - <td>—————Genius nudus sacrificans</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Antoninus Augustus p. p.</td> - <td><i>reverse</i>, cos. pulvinar cum fulmine</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span style="padding-left: 4.7em;">ælius Cæsar</span></td> - <td>tr. pot. cos. <span class="smcap">ii.</span> Concord. victoria sedens</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span style="padding-left: 2em;">Faustina</span></td> - <td>Vesta pulvinar</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span style="padding-left: 2em;">Sabina Augusta</span></td> - <td>Concordia Aug. genia stans cum patera</td> - </tr> - </tbody> - </table> - - <p class="noindent">These being all of the higher empire, and many excellently well cut, - indicate that they were hid early, and perhaps about this time, that - the Watling-street was made: they were found in a hole in the fields - between Loughborow and the Watling-street, with about a dozen more than - here described.</p> - - <p>Wickliff lived at Lutterworth, his picture in the parsonage. Mr. Button - of Kimcote, near here, a curious man. Wickliff’s pulpit still left. A - petrifying spring at Lutterworth.</p> - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_102" href="#FNanchor_102" class="label">[102]</a> <i>Magus</i> rather signifies originally a field, - or plain, and where probably the old Britons had their religious - ceremonies, sports, and races, &c. the barrows too hereabout indicate - here has been an ancient British temple, and I suppose the name of - <i>Long Meg and her daughters</i>, at the British temple in Cumberland, - only the remains of the original name <i>Magus</i>. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_103" href="#FNanchor_103" class="label">[103]</a> In Speed’s History of England, p. 261. Maiden Bower - by the sea-coast in Norfolk, where Hunstanton was built. This was - undoubtedly a Roman camp there. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_104" href="#FNanchor_104" class="label">[104]</a> At the same time and place, the king, and Bertuald - archbishop of Canterbury, held a council and enacted canons. - - <p>K. Henry I. kept his court here, 1122. as Hen. Hunt says, p. 218. <i>b.</i></p> - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_105" href="#FNanchor_105" class="label">[105]</a> A brass Roman <i>lar</i> dug up about Grosvenor square - (in possession of Mr. Beaupre Bell) near where the Roman road ran, the Watling-street. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_106" href="#FNanchor_106" class="label">[106]</a> May place, west of Crayford, seems <i>Noviomagus</i>. - Oct. 1722, many Roman coins found in an urn near Croydon. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_107" href="#FNanchor_107" class="label">[107]</a> Rochester was a very strong place, and the water went - quite round it. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_108" href="#FNanchor_108" class="label">[108]</a> Bishop Gundulf died 1108. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_109" href="#FNanchor_109" class="label">[109]</a> The river Medvacus runs through Vicenza, a city in - Italy, built by the Gauls. I suppose our present Britons, or Welsh, - are Gauls, the same as Cæsar conquered; that the oldest Britons - are the Irish, who are much of Phœnician original, and part of the - shepherds banished Africa, and who came along with Hercules Ægyptus, - Assis, Melcartus, who built Carteja or Cadiz, and civilized the Celtic - nations, remembered by the Gauls under the name of Hercules Ogmius. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_110" href="#FNanchor_110" class="label">[110]</a> I find in this country, that the word <i>Chart</i> - generally imports some works of antiquity. Chartway from E. Sutton to Munchilsey. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_111" href="#FNanchor_111" class="label">[111]</a> In Stone church are many Roman bricks. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_112" href="#FNanchor_112" class="label">[112]</a> The name of Watling-street, as it passes through - the city, is almost lost by the negligence of the inhabitants, who generally of late call it Beer-cart lane. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_113" href="#FNanchor_113" class="label">[113]</a> The ground east of Canterbury is sandy, and favourable for hops. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_114" href="#FNanchor_114" class="label">[114]</a> In this port landed St. Augustin, the apostle of our - Saxon ancestors. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_115" href="#FNanchor_115" class="label">[115]</a> Vitruvius directs the gates of cities to be made - oblique. This was called <i>Madan</i> gate, from the figure of a - <i>woman</i> over it, as the vulgar fancy. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_116" href="#FNanchor_116" class="label">[116]</a> There are a great number of large barrows about - Sandwich; one at Winsborough, with a tree upon it; so it is called by - the vulgar, but the learned make it Wodnesborough: between that and - Sandwich is another, called Marvil hill. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_117" href="#FNanchor_117" class="label">[117]</a> Among the sand-hills by Sandwich I found a curious - plant, which I take to be the <i>satyrium abortivum</i>, or bird’s-nest - of Gerard: it has a bulbous root of a red colour; the stem sometimes - a foot long, whitish like young asparagus, and almost naked; a - great spike of white flowers, of the cucullate sort, with a black - <i>apex</i>: they are exceeding odoriferous. I found much <i>eryngo</i> - there, which smells pleasantly when broke; and on all the banks of the - ditches hereabouts garden-fennel grows in great plenty. - - <p>Sandwich is in a miserable, decayed condition, following apace the - downfall of its mother <i>Rutupium</i>: it might easily be made the - best harbour on this coast, by cutting a new channel for the river - about a mile and half through the sand-hills south easterly; for the - water of the river Stour would sufficiently scour it, did it run - strait, and with that direction. All the walls and bulworks of the town - are dismantled, the gates tumbling down; and a few cannon lie scattered - here and there. This town likewise might be made very strong; for, - besides the river Stour, another rivulet runs through it, that would - keep the ditches always full.</p> - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_118" href="#FNanchor_118" class="label">[118]</a> At Hardres place, the seat of Sir William Hardres, lay - king Henry VIII. when going upon his expedition at Boloign: he left - his picture here, and an old dagger, very broad, and about as long as - a Roman sword: the handle is of silver gilt and enamelled, with mottos - on it. The old gates of this seat were the gates of Boloign, brought - thence at that siege by Sir William’s ancestor, who accompanied the king. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_119" href="#FNanchor_119" class="label">[119]</a> By St. Margaret’s are many natural cavities in the chalk - cliffs, and an admirable large spring arising from the beach with great force when the tide is out. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_120" href="#FNanchor_120" class="label">[120]</a> To Dover from Canterbury the Watling-street is still - the common way: it is left intire over Barham downs, with a high ridge - strait pointing to Canterbury cathedral tower: as soon as it enters - the downs it traverses a group of Celtic barrows, then leaves a small - camp of Cæsar’s: further on it has been basely inclosed through two - fields, and levelled with ploughing: then it passes by a great single - barrow, whereon stood the mill, which is now removed higher up: then - it ascends the hill to a hedge corner, where are three barrows, a - great one between two little ones, all inclosed with a double square - intrenchment of no great bulk: I fancy them Roman, because parallel to, - and close by, the Roman road: the great barrow has a cavity at top, and - an entrance eastward; whether casually, or with design, I know not. - At Lyddon the Watling-street falls into that noble valley of Dover, - made of two huge ridges of chalk, which divide themselves into lesser - valleys, dropping into the great one at regular distances, as the - little leaves of plants meet at the main stem: this valley, when viewed - from the end, looks like a landscape on scenes lessening, according - to perspective, to Dover, between the two <i>Phari</i> and the sea at - the end, inclosed between them. The street slides along the northern - declivity, crosses the rivulet which wanders through the midst of the - valley at Buckland, so to Biggin gate, where is its termination, by the - side of the old port, having now run from Chester about 250 miles. Many - barrows on the sides of those hills. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_121" href="#FNanchor_121" class="label">[121]</a> Such a Roman <i>Pharos</i> at Damiata in Egypt, the view - of it in Le Brun, plate 70. letter A. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_122" href="#FNanchor_122" class="label">[122]</a> I suppose likewise that the sails of ships ought to be - narrower at top, where they are fastened to the yard’s arm, broader at - bottom, like a cloke; and so they are ordinarily made in some measure. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_123" href="#FNanchor_123" class="label">[123]</a> At Folkstone the famous Dr. Harvey was born, ob. 1657. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_124" href="#FNanchor_124" class="label">[124]</a> The seat of Ostenhanger, through the park whereof the - Stone-street runs to Limne, was a noble building: they sold it lately - for 1000 pounds to a mason, who pulled it all down. An inscription of - the chapel there is now made a stone step in the house of Mr. Smith of - Stanford; thus copied by Mr. Godfrey: - - <p lang="la">IVIL. V. ET. XX A LINCARNATION NOSTRE CHRIST ET LE XII. ANNE DV TRES - HAULT ET TRES SANT ET TRES EXCELLENT PRINCE NOSTRE ET ROY - H<span class="overline">ER</span>Y VIII A LE HONEVR DV DIEV ET DE LA GLORIEUSE VIERGE - MARIE FVT FAICTE ET ACHEVEE CESTE CHAPELLE PAR MESSIRE EDOVARD POYNINGS - CHEVALIER DE LA NOBLE ORDRE DV GARTIER ET CONTRE ROYLER DE LA MASON DV - ROY CVY DIEV DDINT SA GRACE ET BONNE VIE ET LONGVE ET PARADIS A LA FIN AMEN.</p> - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_125" href="#FNanchor_125" class="label">[125]</a> Asclepiades says Boreas, a king of the Celts, planted an - unknown tree on the <i>tumulus</i> of his daughter <i>Cyparissa</i>; - whence the name of it, and its funeral use. Trees planted on - Protesilaus’s sepulchre, Pliny, XVI. 44. So an oak on Illus’s - <i>tumulus</i>, ibid. so on the tomb of Amycus king of the Bebrycians, <i>ibid.</i> - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_126" href="#FNanchor_126" class="label">[126]</a> St. Martin’s day, in the Norway clogs, is marked with - a goose; for on that day they always feasted with a roasted goose: - they say St. Martin, being elected to a bishoprick, hid himself, but - was discovered by that animal. We have transferred the ceremony to - Michaelmas. Sumner’s glossary, voce <b>ᵹe-beoꞃꞅciꞃe</b>, mentions - the <i>alæ</i> of the northern people, meaning such a religious - ceremony as we have been speaking of: and, if one consults Skinner’s - <i>Etymologicon</i> for the derivation of our word <i>ale</i>, we may - be apt to suspect it is most reasonable to refer it to this custom, - from the incongruity of his. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_127" href="#FNanchor_127" class="label">[127]</a> This work on the outside of the gates is called - <i>titulus</i> by Hyginus: he orders it to be sixty foot distant from - the gate. The word and thing, whether round or square, is analogous to - our modern priest-cap, as called: perhaps it should be <i>tutulus</i>. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_128" href="#FNanchor_128" class="label">[128]</a> Captain Madox sent me some Roman coins; a Maximian - pretty large, LON ; with an instrument of brass. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_129" href="#FNanchor_129" class="label">[129]</a> In Weekfield, much foundations of houses, coins, &c. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_130" href="#FNanchor_130" class="label">[130]</a> Divitiacus, king of the Gauls, had a great command in - Britain, in <i>Belgium</i>, and seems to have given his name to the Devizes, upon his frontier. - - <p>Wells remains of the <i>Belgæ</i>.</p> - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_131" href="#FNanchor_131" class="label">[131]</a> A most noble busto in brass found at the Bath, anno - 1727. Mr. Gale says it is not easy to know whether it be a man’s or a - woman’s: I suppose it is the Genius of the city, buried there for luck - sake. Such another found in the middle of Paris, very deep, with a - mural crown on; and such a one had ours, the holes being visible where - it was fastened. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_132" href="#FNanchor_132" class="label">[132]</a> In the public papers, Jan. 1722–3, at Corton, - Somersetshire, a small Roman urn full of coins, Valerian, Gallienus, - Aurelian, in the hands of Mr. Tho. Nash, rector there. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_133" href="#FNanchor_133" class="label">[133]</a> Some have had a notion that Joseph of Arimathea was - buried at Montague hill, not at Glasenbury; but if Joseph ever was in - Britain, it is most likely he was buried really at Glasenbury: and - probably it is Simon the Zealot, or Canaanite, one of our Saviour’s - apostles, that is buried at Montague; the two stories being confounded, - and perhaps two made of one: for that Simon preached in Britain, - wrought miracles here, was martyred and buried in Britain, we have the - express testimony, and very ancient, of Nicephorus, Dorotheus, the - Greek Monologies, wherein he is said to be crucified and buried there. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_134" href="#FNanchor_134" class="label">[134]</a> A broad Roman sword found here, 1688. Here is a spring. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_135" href="#FNanchor_135" class="label">[135]</a> Alexander, at building Alexandria, marked the track of - the walls with bread-corn. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_136" href="#FNanchor_136" class="label">[136]</a> Urbs primum in medio regionis maximè condatur, delecto - in loco qui cæteras quoque opportunitates complectatur, quas & - concipere & designare minimè difficile est; deinde in partes duodecim - distributio fiat, ut Vestae prima Jovique atque Minervæ consecretur; & - illa urbis pars Arx nuncupetur, & septo diligenter muniatur: & ex eo - urbem & regionem in duodecim partes distribuant: vici præterea in 12 - partes erunt distribuendi, sicuti & cæteræ civium facultates ut ex 12 - partium constitutione cursuum lustrationes commodius peragi possint: - 12 quoque partes 12 diis erunt deinceps attribuendæ; & unaquæque pars, - ex ejus dei nomine cui illa obtigerit, erit nuncupanda, ut tribus ipsa - sit suo & tutelari deo cognominata; sed ut 12 urbis membra, sicuti in - reliqua regione factum est, singulatim in duas habitationes fuerunt - dividenda, quarum una circa medium sit, altera circa extremum; & - habitationis quidem ordo & ratio hunc in modum conformetur.—All this - Plato learnt from the Jewish œconomy. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_137" href="#FNanchor_137" class="label">[137]</a> It pleases me to inquire the names of these old things, - however aukward. Quære, Whether it means the name of the person buried - there, or the god worshipped there, <i>Baal</i>, <i>Belinus</i>; or - that it signifies only an eminence, <i>bal</i>, <i>fal</i>? - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_138" href="#FNanchor_138" class="label">[138]</a> <i>Opus tessellatum</i> found in the castle. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_139" href="#FNanchor_139" class="label">[139]</a> Eubulus greeteth thee, and Pudens, and Linus, and - Claudia, and all the brethren.—See Fuller’s Church History, and Usher. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_140" href="#FNanchor_140" class="label">[140]</a> Mr. Terry of Lincoln tells me, at Tangham near Farnham, - innumerable Roman coins, urns, and antiquities, are dug up every - where in hedge-rows: vast quantities of them, which he got, he gave - to Oxford. This perhaps was the site of <i>Calleva</i>. Many pillars, - pilasters, capitals, bases, marble tables, &c. dug up there continually; - many in possession of George Woodroff, esq. late owner of the estate: - he had many pecks of coins found there. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_141" href="#FNanchor_141" class="label">[141]</a> A large parcel of it, a quarter of a mile long, is - still perfect to the east of the brook, where the powder mills are on - Hounslow heath, where the common road goes southward to pass it. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_142" href="#FNanchor_142" class="label">[142]</a> The <i>via Trinovantica</i>. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_143" href="#FNanchor_143" class="label">[143]</a> November, 1731, a labourer dug up an urn full of silver - Roman coin, at Turnham green, as repeated in the public prints. - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <a id="Footnote_144" href="#FNanchor_144" class="label">[144]</a> Stanes was fenced round with a ditch. - </div> - - <h2>Illustration Transcriptions:</h2> - - <div class="center mt3 bt" id="t_001"> - <div>Page 1</div> - <div class="bbox left mt1" style="width: 11em; padding-left: 0.5em" lang="la"><i>Ingratiam Itinerantium<br> - Curiosorum <span class="smcap">Antonini</span></i><br> - Aug. <i><span class="smcap">Itinerarium</span></i> per<br> - <span class="smcap large gesperrt1">Britanniam.</span><br> - tentavit <i>W. Stukeley 1723</i>.</div> - <div class="mt2"><a href="#i_001">Return</a></div> - </div> - - <div class="center mt3 bt" id="t_010_11"> - <div>Page 10</div> - <table class="small top border"> - <thead> - <tr> - <th colspan="4">Transcription</th> - </tr> - </thead> - <tbody> - <tr> - <td colspan="4"><a id="FNanchor_8" href="#Footnote_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a>Duke Oslac, 960, in the time of Edgar, says Ingulfus, - p. 67. falsly sirnamed De Wake in the Life of Hereward.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Goda</td> - <td>Walt. Mant.</td> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><a id="FNanchor_9" href="#Footnote_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a>Ralph E. of Hereford, sirnamed Scalre.</td> - <td colspan="3"><a id="FNanchor_10" href="#Footnote_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a>Morcar, Lord of Brun, second son of Algar - earl of Leicester. V. Peck, A. S. iii. f. 28.<a id="FNanchor_11" href="#Footnote_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Roger, Lord of Brun 1060.</td> - <td>Leofric</td> - <td colspan="2">Edina, great grand-daughter of Oslac. Vita Hereward. Ingulf. p. 67.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><a id="FNanchor_12" href="#Footnote_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a>Hereward the famous outlaw</td> - <td colspan="3">Thurfrida, vit. Hereward. This Hereward was the hero of his time, and - did many notable exploits. He was nephew to Brando, abbot of Peterburgh. Vid. Dugdale’s Imbanking.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Hugh Evermue, lord of Deping and Brun.</td> - <td colspan="2">Thurfrida heiress. Ingulph. p. 67.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">11</span>Richard de Rulos</td> - <td colspan="3">only daughter. Ingulph. anno 1114. and Petr. Blesens.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="3">Baldwin Fitz-Gilbert, earl of Glomery, founder of Deping priory, ob. 1171, <i>Monast. Anglican.</i> - Vol. I. p. 469. Vol. II. p. 23. York’s Heraldry, 191.</td> - <td>Adheldis anno 1138.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Hugh de Wac</td> - <td colspan="2">Emma, daughter and heir of Baldwin earl of Glocester. <i>Monast. Angl.</i> Vol. I. p. 462. Vol. II. 236.</td> - <td>Rogerus.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="3">Baldwin lord Wake he founded the abbey of Brun, 1140. He gave the priory of Deeping to Thorney abbey, - ob. 1156, and was buried at Thorney abbey. Dugdale’s Baronage.</td> - <td> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Baldwin, lord Wake and Lydel, in Cumberland: he died the 20th of July, 1224, buried at Harombel, a castle in Gascoign.</td> - <td><sup>1</sup> Alicia</td> - <td><sup>2</sup> Joscelyn de Styvecle, lord of Great Styvecle, com. Hunt. Inquisit. 38. H. III 2. Vincent ABC, N. 43. p. 891.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Baldwin lord Wake: he died 1213. Dugdale’s Baronage.</td> - <td colspan="2">Isabella, daughter and heir of Wil. Bruer lord of Torbay, son of Henry de Bruer.</td> - <td>Beatrix de Vanne, concubine of Reginald earl of Cornwall.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Hugh Wake, lord of Wake, Lydel and Brun: he died 1233.</td> - <td colspan="2"><sup>1</sup> Johanna, heiress of Nicholas d’Estotvil lord of Cotingham, who died 1220: she died on St. Ambrose’s day 1260. - <i>Mon. Angl.</i> Vol. II. p. 348.</td> - <td><sup>2</sup> Hugh Bigod lord justice of England.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td rowspan="2" colspan="2">Baldwin, lord of Wake, Brun, Lydel and Cotingham, died <i>prid. non. Feb.</i> 1281, mentioned in Rymer’s <i>Fœdera</i> I. p. 777.</td> - <td>Hugh Wake. Rymer’s Fœd. I. p. 493.</td> - <td> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Elinor, daughter of Sir John Montgomery.</td> - <td> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - <td colspan="2">Sir Hugh de Wake, his father, gave him the manors of Deeping and Blisworth, Northamptonshire.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>John de Wake: he died 4 Ap. 1304.</td> - <td>Johanna</td> - <td colspan="2">St. John lord St. John = Mirabella = Thomas Aspal.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - <td>Sir Tho. Wake, knight</td> - <td>Alice, daughter and coheir of Sir John Pateshul, knight.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td rowspan="2">Edmund Plantagenet of Woodstock, earl of Kent, third son of king Ed. I.</td> - <td rowspan="2">Margaret, sister and heir.</td> - <td rowspan="2">Thomas de Wake ob. 4 july 1343. he founded the abbey of Hautemprise, in Yorkshire, then removed it to - Cotingham 1322. The original seal of that abbey is in the hands of John Warburton, esq. Somerset herald, - and was engraven by the Antiquarian society, London.</td> - <td>Blanch, daughter of Henry Plantagenet, Earl of Lancaster.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>John L. Wake, ob. s.p.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td rowspan="2" colspan="2">Sir Thomas Holland, one of the founders of the order of the Garter.</td> - <td rowspan="2"><sup>2</sup> Joan the fair maid of Kent.</td> - <td><sup>1</sup> Wil. Montacute, earl of Salisbury.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><sup>3</sup> Edward the black prince.</td> - </tr> - </tbody> - </table> - <div class="mt2"><a href="#i_010-11">Return</a></div> - </div> - - <div class="center mt3 bt" id="t_023"> - <div>Page 23</div> - <table class="small top mt2 border"> - <thead> - <tr> - <th colspan="3">Transcription</th> - </tr> - </thead> - <tbody> - <tr> - <td colspan="3">Thomas de Multon, lord Egremont, and lord of Holbech, obtained a market for Fleet, 9 Jo.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Robert Romley,</td> - <td colspan="2">daughter of Wm. Meschines, lord of Coupland.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Wm. Duncanson</td> - <td>Alice, heiress.</td> - <td>Hugh de Morvile, lord of Burgh upon Sands, chief forester of Cumberland.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Richard de Lucy lord Egremont</td> - <td><sup>1</sup> Ada, coheiress</td> - <td><sup>2</sup> Thomas de Multon obtained a market and fair for Holbech, 37 Hen. III.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Amabilis, heiress</td> - <td>Lambert de Multon, 1270.</td> - <td>Thomas de Multon, lord of Burgh, in Cumberland.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Thomas de Multon, 31 Ed. I. 1303.</td> - <td>Thomas de Multon lord of Burgh, 20 Ed. I.</td> - <td>Maud de Vaulx, heiress of Gillesland, daughter of Hubert de Vaulx.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="3">Thomas de Multon, lord Egremont.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Thomas de Multon, lord Egremont, ob. 15 Ed. II.</td> - <td colspan="2">daughter of Rich. de Burgh, earl of Ulton.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>John de Multon, lord Egremont, ob. s. p. 9 Ed. III.</td> - <td>Thomas de Multon, lord of Burgh, Gillesland and Holbech, 21 Ed. I. and 2 Ed. II. <i>Inquisit. post mortem.</i></td> - <td>Isabel.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Ranulf de Dacre, lord of Drumbough castle</td> - <td colspan="2">Margaret, heiress. Maud, says Camden.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Thomas Dacre, esq. lord of Holbech, 1450.</td> - <td colspan="2">Philippa, ob. 1453.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> </td> - <td colspan="2">Humphry Dacre, esq.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> </td> - <td colspan="2">Sir Ralf de Dacre, lord of Holbech, 1470.</td> - </tr> - </tbody> - </table> - <div class="mt2"><a href="#i_023a">Return</a></div> - </div> - - <div class="center mt3 bt" id="t_025"> - <div>Page 25</div> - <table class="small top mt2 border"> - <thead> - <tr> - <th colspan="3">Transcription</th> - </tr> - </thead> - <tbody> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Andrew de Craon, lord of Craon, of Bruslon, and of Loches. lozengé o. & g.</td> - <td>Agnes, daughter of Fulk, the good count of Anjou, and lord of Loches.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Lisois the elder, lord of Craon: he lived in the time of Nerra, earl of Anjou.</td> - <td>Artus de Craon, chambrier de l’abbay de St. Aubin d’Angers.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="3">Suhard de Craon the elder, lord of Craon.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Lisois de Craon the younger, author of the elder or English house of Craon: he was lord of Mordelles. V. Histoire de Sablé, p. 109, 110.</td> - <td>Guerin de Craon, lord of Craon. He doing homage for his baronage to Conan II. duke of Britany, instead of Geffrey - Martel, earl of Anjou, who claimed that service, it was confiscated; whereupon he waged war, but was wounded therein, and died.</td> - <td>Suhard de Craon the younger.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Robté de Craon, heiress</td> - <td>Robert de Vitré, lord of Vitré.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> </td> - <td>Robert de Nevers, sirnamed the Burgundian, or Allobrog.</td> - <td>Avis de Sablé.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Hildeberg married to Herbert Marquis of</td> - <td>Inogen de Vitré.</td> - <td>Reynold the Burgundian, lord of Craon.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> </td> - <td colspan="2">Authors of the second house of Craon, of special note in France. He founded the abbey of Roé, - in the neighbourhood of Craon, 1096. His Cri d’Arms was <span class="smcap">Cleriau</span>.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Geffry, first prior to the abbey of St. Evron in Normandy, after abbot of Croyland, ob. 1124.</td> - <td rowspan="2" colspan="2">Guy de Croun, baron Croun of Frieston, near Boston, Lincolnshire, given him by William - the Conqueror, with whom he came into England. He had another seat at Burton Crown, near (Sleaford) so called - from him, as now Pedwardyn from his descendants: he had much land in Ashby, Ravendale, Wade, and Bliton, com. Linc. 20 W. I. - as appears in Domesday. He possessed no less than sixty lordships. He gave to the priory of Spalding, refounded about this time by his - countryman, Ivo Talbois, one carucat of land in that town, anno 1081. Histoir. de Sablé, p, 138. thus says the charter of donation. - Guy de Croun, in obedience to the divine inspiration, out of his ability, gave a certain parcel of his estate to GOD and St. Nicholas, - for the soul of William the king, and Maud the queen, and for the soul of William the First, that the Lord would grant him success in - his reign, and bring him to a good end; one carucat of land in Spaldingue, with the appurtenances; his wife, all his sons and - daughters, and brothers, consenting thereto, for the good of his soul.——He likewise gave ten carucats of land in Pynchbeck to - the abbey of Croyland, and two carucats in Spalding to the same.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Robert, monk of St. Evron, was afterwards abbot of Thorney.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Godfrey de Croun, first prior of Frieston.</td> - <td>Emme.</td> - <td>Roger de Croun.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - <td>William de Crown.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Alan de Croun Baron Croun. He was in highest favour with king Hen. I. to whom he was great steward of the houshold. - Petrus Blesensis says he was dear to the king above all other barons of the court, and whose - counsel he valued most. He so far excelled in industry, honesty, wisdom, and sanctity, that he - was called the King’s God, by the soldiery. In his country at Frieston, he was called <i>Alan</i> - <i>Open-doors</i>, because he kept so great a house, says Leland in his Itinerary, Vol. VII. p. 126. - He owned Southwarnburn, com. Southampt. He founded the priory of Frieston for Benedictin - monks, subject to the abbot of Croyland, anno 1142: he was buried at Croyland abbey, on the - south side of the high altar. See the <i>Monasticon</i>, and History of Ingulfus and Continuation, and Dugdale’s Baronage.</td> - <td>Muriel.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - <td>Matilde.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">1150. Maurice de Craon, baron Croun. He was made keeper of the castle of Ancennis by - Hen. II. and governor of the provinces of Anjou and Main: he was one of the plenipotentiaries - on the part of the king, in the treaties between him and Philip the August, king of France.</td> - <td>Clarice, sister to Henry III. vid. liberat. 35 Hen. III. m. 3. and Claus. 45 Hen. III. - m. 13. she was after married again to the duke of Burgundy, 33 Hen. III. 39 Hen. III. p. 2. m. 2.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Maurice de Croun, nepos regis & nepos Almerici de Croun, cui manerium de Burn - restituitur post mortem Almerici de Croun.—Pat. 55. Hen. III. p. 1. m. 28.</td> - <td>Guy de la Val, qui habuit in liberio maritagio quasdam terras in Walttun com. Surr. - sed forisfecit illas adherendo baronibus contra Ric. I. v. Lib. Feod. Milit. f. 16. b.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Ralf de Croun.</td> - <td colspan="2">Peter de Croun habet Hamma, Waletun & Ewell, cum. Surr. Pat. 17 Hen. I. m. 24.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">1180. Guy de Crown, baron Crown He accompanied Richard I. in his voyage to the Holy Land, 1192; was present at the treaty - between him and Tancred, king of Sicily, recited by Hoveden, annal. He confirmed, to the - nuns of Haverholm, pasture for ninescore sheep in Bloxam fields, even to the bounds between - them and the abbot of Grelle.—V. lib. R. Dodsworth, vocat. petigrees, tom. i. f. 94. b.</td> - <td>Isabel.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> </td> - <td>Walter to Langtot</td> - <td>Matildis.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> </td> - <td>Ranulf de Langtot</td> - <td> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td rowspan="3">There were lands in Sutton held of the - honour of Croun,—Inquis. Wap. Elhou. 1 Ed. III. feod. milit. 42. offic. armor, p. 32.</td> - <td>Robert de Vallibus came into England with William the Conqueror.</td> - <td>Agnes.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>William de Vaux</td> - <td> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Robert de Vaux</td> - <td> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>1. William Longchamp<br>2. Henry de Mara. Gules, a fesse between three water-budgets ermine.</td> - <td>Petronilla.</td> - <td><sup>3</sup> Oliver de Vaux. Chequy argent and gules.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Sir Henry de Longchamp: he died March 1274, and was buried at Swynshed abbey; his heart at Burton Pedwardin, as called - from his son in-law, before the altar in the chapel of the Virgin Mary. Or, three crescents gules, charged each with a mullet argent.<br> - There is a great Fe gatery’d about Bostone parts by the name of <i>Petronille de la Corone</i> dowghter - by <i>Lykelehode de la Corone</i> foundar of Frieston priorye, and buried at Croyland. This fe is - now paid to the lord Rosse, but the Richmount fe is greater there. There is also anoder fee - cauld <i>Pepardyne</i>; and that the lord Linsey had: and the owners of these fees be lords - of the town of Boston.—Leland’s Itin. Vol. VIII. p. 124.—Petronil had lands in Holbech - and Quaplode.—Inquis. Elho, 1 Ed. III. feod. milit. 42. offic. arm. p. 32. and - in Weston, p. 33, 20, 21, &c. <i>Juratores dicunt quod Petronilla de vallibus tenet</i> - <i>de domino rege in capite manerium de Warnburn com. Southampton & in com. Lincoln 22.</i> - <i>feod. mil. & dimid. per Baronium & quod Henricus de Longo Campo est ejus propinquior</i> - <i>heres & ætat. 50. & amplius.</i>—Escaet. 46 Hen. III. N. 5.</td> - <td>Sibilla, daughter of Sir Thomas Heringande, com. Suff. Az. six herrings argent.</td> - <td>John de Vaux owned the manor of Frieston, and certain lands in Boston by gift of his mother, in - of his mother, <i>in</i> <i>feodo talliata, ob.</i> 1288.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Roger Penwardyn.</td> - <td rowspan="2" colspan="2">Alice: she died 15 May, 1330, was buried in the north side of the chapel of the Virgin Mary, in Burton Pedwardin, - where I saw her tomb-stone, with this inscription, 1714.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Gules, two lions regardant argent.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="3" class="tdc"><div>DAME ALIS. DE. PETTEWARDIN. GYT. ITY. DEU. DE. SA. ALME GYT. MERCI.</div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Petronil</td> - <td>Sir William de Nereford.</td> - <td> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Matilda, ob. S. P.</td> - <td>William de Roos, lord of Hamlake, Gules, three water-budgets argent.</td> - <td>Maud, heiress.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> William de Ros.</td> - <td colspan="2">Margery, one of the coheiresses of Giles de Badlismere, lord of Chillham. Their descendants - were barons Ros; and the Manors’s, earls of Rutland, married an heiress.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Thangharat, sister to Thelwell Llewellin, prince of Wales.</td> - <td><sup>1</sup> Wallter Pedwardin, alias Lloyd, lived in the castle of Brampton, in Wigmorland, in the - marches of Wales, called Waugher Thleud by reason of his white hairs.</td> - <td><sup>2</sup> Maud, daughter of Sir John Lyngain.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"><b class="small">anno 1340.</b> Roger Pedwardin II. he built entirely new the church of Burton - Pedwardin and St. Mary’s chapel there, being on the north side; but the south aile, together with the chapel - of St. Nicholas, wasrebuilt at the same time by the parishioners.</td> - <td>Alice, daughter of Henry Longchamp.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Sir Roger Pedwardin: he died 10 Feb. 1368, - buried at Burton: he obtained a bull for 530 days pardon to all benefactors towards the church and chapels there.</td> - <td>Agnes, daughter of Philip Darcy, sister and coheiress of Norman D’arcy, lord Darcy - of Nocton, Azure, semée de cross croslets or, three cinquefoils ar.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>John de Markham, J. C. Az. on a chief ar. a demi-lion.</td> - <td> daughter of Nicholas Bottomsell.</td> - <td>Brian de Pedwarin, esc. 11 E. III. N. 4. Lincoln.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Robert de Markham</td> - <td>daughter of Caunton.</td> - <td>Alice = John de Warbelton.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> </td> - <td>Sir Walter Pedwardin, ob. 11 June, 1405.</td> - <td>Isabel, daughter and coheiress of Sir Rob. Hilton, and Margaret, daughter and coheir of Marmaduke Tweng, knt.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><sup>2</sup> Milicent daughter of Beckerin.</td> - <td>Sir John Markham, justic. de Banco.</td> - <td><sup>1</sup> Eliz. daughter and coheiress of Hugh de Cressy.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td rowspan="2">Sir John Markham, of Nottingham: he was lord chief justice, 10 Hen. IV. buried in Sidbrook - church, near Grantham. That manor continued in his family till Sir George Markham lately sold it to Sir John Thorold.</td> - <td rowspan="2">Margaret, coheiress of Simon Leek.</td> - <td> Walter de Pedwardin.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Catharine = David, son of Sir Daniel Fletwick.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> </td> - <td>1430. Sir Robert Pedwarin, ob. 26. April, 1432. <i>fines prim. mich.</i> 8 Hen. IV. Linc.</td> - <td>Elizabeth, daughter to Sir Edmund Pierpoint, knight.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> </td> - <td><sup>2</sup> Walter Pedwardin, esq. ob. 4. Aug. 1429, 9 Hen. VI. Ecc. N. 7.</td> - <td><sup>1</sup> Katharine daughter of Ingilby of Ripley, near Knaresburgh.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><sup>1</sup> Matthew Leak.<br><sup>2</sup> John de Fleet of Framton,esq. a lawyer. Ar. two bars sable, - each charged with three scallops of the first.</td> - <td>Katharine.</td> - <td> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Beatrice Leak.</td> - <td>Roger Pedwardin.</td> - <td>Thomas Pedwardin.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td rowspan="2"> </td> - <td rowspan="2">Christopher Pedwardin, of Brompton, Salop, son and heir, released all his right - to the manor of Burton Pedwardin, Claus. 7. Ed. IV. m. 8 Linc.</td> - <td> Katharine.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Joanna.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> </td> - <td>Alexander Leak</td> - <td>Margaret</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> </td> - <td>John Quickerell, of Boston</td> - <td>Ann.</td> - </tr> - </tbody> - </table> - <div class="mt2"><a href="#i_025">Return</a></div> - </div> - - <div class="center mt3 bt" id="t_85"> - <div>Page 85</div> - <div class="mt2">Magno NEUTONO <i>Ecclesiam Parochiæ Ipsius Natalibus celebris Summæ - Observantiæ Monumentum quam pusillum humillime consecrat Conterraneus - suus W<sup>s</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.3em;">.</span> Stukeley, 1722</i></div> - <div class="mt2"><a href="#i_085">Return</a></div> - </div> - - <div class="center mt3 bt" id="t_091"> - <div>Page 91</div> - <table class="border"> - <tbody> - <tr> - <td class="tdc"><div>I<br><br> - D ~ M<br> - G ~ VALERIVS ~ G ~ F ~<br> - GALERIA ~ VICTOR ~<br> - LVGDVNI~SIG~LEG~II~AVG~<br> - STP~XVII~ANNOR~XI.V.~ CV<br> - RA~AGENT~AMNIO~PERPITVO~B<br><br> - <i>at Caerlion</i></div></td> - <td class="tdc"><div>II<br><br> - D·M·S<br> - CADIOI<br> - NIAE~FOR<br> - TVNA<br> - PIA~V~A XV<br><br> - <i>At Adel</i></div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc"><div>III<br><br> - MARIE<br> - OFEIS◌̅CE<br> - NERIS IEIO<br> - + VIPIO S C δ I I R<br> - + ER IIGMEIETRIPE<br><br> - DIS MANIBVS<br> - NOMINE SACR<br> - BRVSCI FILI CVIS<br> - SENONI ET CARSS<br> - VNAE CONIVGIS<br> - EIVS ET QVINTIP<br><br> - <i>Upon S<sup>t</sup> Marys Steeple Lincoln</i></div></td> - <td class="tdc"><div>IV<br><br> - VIBIA<br> - IVCVN<br> - DA<br> - AN XXX<br> - HIC SEPVL<br> - TA EST<br><br> - <i>at Bathe</i> - </div></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc"><div>V<br><br> - D ~ M ~<br> - IVLIAE CASTÆ<br> - CONIVGI~VIX~<br> - ANN~XXXIII<br><br> - <i>at Cirencester~Glocest<sup>r</sup>Sh</i></div></td> - <td class="tdc">VI<br><br> - C·GAVIO·L·F·STEL·SILVANO<br> - TRIB·COH·II·VIGILVM·TRIB·<br> - COH·XIII·VRB·TRIB·COH·XII·<br> - PRAETOR·DONIS.DONATO·A·<br> - DIVO·CLAVDIO·BELLO·BRI<br> - TANNICO<br><br> - <i>at Tours</i></td> - </tr> - </tbody> - </table> - - <div class="mt2"><a href="#i_091">Return</a></div> - </div> - - <div class="center mt3 bt" id="t_092"> - <div>Page 92</div> - <div class="left inline antiqua mt2 mb2" style="width: 35em;" lang="la">Sub marmore isto tenet hic tumulus ossa venerabilis in Christo patris - et dñi Wiꝉꝉi Smith quondm̃ Coventrens et Lichfeldens ac deinde - Lincolnien presulis qui obiit secundo die mentis Januarii anno dñi - millesimo quingentessimo trio decimo cuj̃ aĩe ppicietur qĩ pius et - misicors in die tribulat peccata remittit</div> - <div class="bbox left antiqua" style="width: 22em; padding-left: 0.5em" lang="la">Cestrensis presul post Lincolniensis Amator<br> - Cleriuam multos cis mare transq<sub>ꝫ</sub> aluit.<br> - Qui utriusqq fuit prefectus Principis aulæ<br> - Fundavitq<sub>ꝫ</sub> duas perpetuando Scholas.<br> - Aulaq<sub>ꝫ</sub> sumptu hujus renovata est Enea Chrste<br> - hic situs est Anime parce benigne sue.</div> - <div class="mt2"><a href="#i_092">Return</a></div> - </div> - - <div class="center mt3 bt" id="t_093"> - <div>Page 93</div> - <div class="mt2" lang="la">Erudito Willo Ella A. M.<br>vieario <i>de</i> Rampton vicinam<br> - <i>Stationem. d.d. W<sup>s</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span> Stukeley</i></div> - <div class="mt2"><a href="#i_093">Return</a></div> - </div> - - <div class="center mt3 bt" id="t_107"> - <div>Page 107</div> - <div class="col50 mt2 br"><i>S<sup>t</sup>. Guthlac’s Cross upon the bank, between Crowland & Spalding, near - Peakill Line<sup>r</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span></i></div> - - <div class="col50 mt2"><i>Ivy Cross by Romans bank in Sutton S<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span> James Parish Holland - Linc<sup>r</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span></i></div> - - <div class="center mt2"><i>The Pedestal of a Cross, Hadenham Camb<sup>r</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span></i></div> - - <div class="center mt2"><i>A Stone Cross found at S<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span> John Old Castles near the Barr. - Presented to Lord</i> Harley <i>by M<sup>r</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span></i> J. Mickleton, <i>deceased</i>.</div> - - <div class="center mt2"><i>On the Pedestal of a Stone Cross at Drayton near</i> Norwich.</div> - - <div class="col50 mt2 br"><i>This Cross was at Ednam Linc<sup>r</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span> drawn - by S<sup>r</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span></i> H. Spelman. - Form Octangular, 9 Inches Diam. 4 Sides twice as broad as the other.</div> - - <div class="col50 mt2"><i>At Willughby on the Wold, one Stone 5 yards high</i></div> - <div class="mt2"><a href="#i_107">Return</a></div> - </div> - - <div class="center mt3 bt" id="t_132"> - <div>Page 132</div> - <div>Borough Castle<br> - <i>3. Miles S.W. from Great-Yarmouth contains ab<sup>t</sup> 5. acres<br> - <span lang="la">Statio fuit hæc Præpositi Equitum Stablesianorum sub comite Limitis Saxonici.</span></i></div> - <div class="mt2"><a href="#i_132_2">Return</a></div> - </div> - - <div class="center mt3 bt" id="t_146"> - <div>Page 146</div> - <div class="mt2"> - <ul class="left inline"> - <li>A <i>The Kings Bath</i></li> - <li>B <i>The Queens Bath</i></li> - <li>C <i>The Cross Bath</i></li> - <li>D <i>The Hot Bath</i></li> - <li>E <i>Gascoins Tower</i></li> - <li>F <i>S<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span> Catherines Hospital</i></li> - <li>G <i>S<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span> Iohns Hospital</i></li> - <li>H <i>Bridewell</i></li> - <li>I <i>The Play House</i></li> - <li>K <i>S<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span> Marys</i></li> - <li>L <i>The Market House</i></li> - <li>M <i>S<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span> Peters Cathedral</i></li> - <li>N <i>S<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span> Iames’s</i></li> - <li>O <i>The Abby Gate</i></li> - <li>P <i>S<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span> Michaels</i></li> - <li>Q <i>S<sup>t</sup><span style="margin-left: -0.2em;">.</span> Michaels broadstr.</i></li> - </ul> - </div> - <div class="mt2"><a href="#i_146_1">Return</a></div> - </div> - - <div class="center mt3 bt" id="t_148a"> - <div>Page 148</div> - <div class="mt2"><i>Found in<br>Portugal</i></div> - <div class="bbox" style="width: 18em;">L · TERENTIO<br> - M · F · QVIR · RVF<br> - PRAEF · COH · VI · BRITTON<br> - · LEG · I · M · P · F · DON · DON · AB<br> - IMP · TRAIAN O · BEL · DAC ·<br> - P · P · LEG · XV · APOLL<br> - TRIB · COH · II · VIC<br> - D · D</div> - <div><i>At Bath</i></div> - <div class="bbox" style="width: 17em;">D M<br> - SVCC · PETRONIAE · VIX<br> - ANN · III · M · IIII · D · IX · V RO<br> - MVLVS · ET · VICTS ARINA<br> - FIL · KAR · FEC</div> - <div><i>At Chichester</i></div> - <div class="bbox" style="width: 22em;">NEPTVNO · ET · MINERVAE<br> - TEMPLVM<br> - PRO · SALVTE · DOMVS · DIVINAE<br> - EXAVCTORITATE TIB CLAVD ·<br> - CO GIDVBNI · R · E GATAG · N · BRIT ·<br> - COLLEGIVM · FABROR · ET QVI · IN · EO<br> - S · PP · S · D · S · D · DONANTE · AREAM<br> - PVDENTE · PVDENTINI · FIL ·</div> - <div class="mt2"><a href="#i_148_1">Return</a></div> - </div> - - <div class="center mt3 bt" id="t_148b"> - <div>Page 148</div> - <div class="col35"> - <div class="bbox left" style="width: 6em; padding-left: 1em;">ILIVS SA<br>VSVXSO</div> - <div class="bbox left mt2" style="width: 6em; padding-left: 1em;">VRN-VLIA<br>IOP-ILLA</div> - <div class="bbox left mt2" style="width: 9.5em; padding-left: 1em;">IVLIUS·VITA<br> - LIS·FABRIGES<br> - IS·LEG·XX·V·V·<br> - STIPENDIOR<br> - VM·VI·ANOR·XX·<br> - IX·NATIONE·BE<br> - LGA·EX·COLEG<sub>I</sub>O<br> - FABRICE·ELAT<sub>V</sub><br> - S·H S E</div> - </div> - <div class="col35"> - <div class="bbox left" style="width: 10.5em; padding-left: 1em;">DIS·MANIBVS<br> - M·VALERIVS·M·<br> - F·ELATINVS CEQ·<br> - MILES·LEG·<span class="bt">X</span>X·ANN<br> - ·<span class="bt">XX</span>X·STIPEN·<span class="bt">X</span>X·<br> - <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">H S E</span></div> - <div class="bbox left mt2" style="width: 8.5em; padding-left: 1em;">C·MVRRIUS·<br> - C·F·ARNIEN SIS<br> - FOROIVLI·MO<br> - DESTVS·MIL·<br> - LEG·II·AD·P·F<br> - IVLI·SECVNDI<br> - ANN·XXV·STIP·<br> - <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">H S E</span></div> - <div class="bbox mt2" style="width: 11em;">DEC·COL·NÆ GLEV<br> - VIXT·A<span class="bt">N</span>·LXXX<sub>Q</sub> VI</div> - </div> - <div class="mt2"><a href="#i_148_2">Return</a></div> - </div> - - <div class="center mt3 bt" id="t_154"> - <div>Page 154</div> - <ul class="inline left"> - <li>a. <i>Little S<sup>t</sup>. Marys chappel</i></li> - <li>b. <i>where I saw a mosaic pavement</i></li> - <li>c. <i>pavement of Roman brick</i></li> - <li>ddd. <i>old Foundations</i></li> - <li>e. <i>pavement a cross the River</i></li> - <li>f. <i>Road to Limington &c.</i></li> - <li>g. <i>White chapel</i></li> - </ul> - <div><i>Carolo Lockyer Ar. tab. d.d. W. Stukeley.</i></div> - <div class="mt2"><a href="#i_154">Return</a></div> - </div> - - <div class="center mt3 bt" id="t_156"> - <div>Page 156</div> - <ul class="inline left"> - <li><i>1 S<sup>t</sup> Peters</i></li> - <li><i>2 S<sup>t</sup> Nicholas Priory</i></li> - <li><i>3 S<sup>t</sup> Mary Moor</i></li> - <li><i>4 The Deanry</i></li> - <li><i>5 Alhallows Wall</i></li> - <li><i>6 Abbot of Tavistocks</i></li> - <li><i>7 S<sup>t</sup> Edmunds</i></li> - </ul> - <div>Gulielmo Musgrave M.D. Gulielmi filio Amico suo d.d. <i>W. Stukeley</i></div> - <div class="mt2"><a href="#i_156">Return</a></div> - </div> - - <div class="center mt3 bt" id="t_191"> - <div>Page 191</div> - <div class="mt2"><i>W<sup>m</sup>. Rufus his Tomb</i></div> - <div class="fleft"> - <ol class="alpha left inline"> - <li><i>the Cathedral.</i></li> - <li><i>the Kings house</i></li> - <li><i>the Bishops Palace</i></li> - <li><i>the College</i></li> - <li><i>the Ro: road to Southampton</i></li> - <li><i>the Ro: Road to old Sarum</i></li> - <li><i>Ro: road to Speen & Silchester</i></li> - </ol> - </div> - <div style="text-align: right; margin-right: 15%;"><i>Dno Rogero Mostyn Barr.<sup>tto</sup><br> - tab. d.d. W<sup>s</sup>. Stukeley.</i></div> - <div class="mt2 clear"><a href="#i_191">Return</a></div> -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin-top:4em'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ITINERARIUM CURIOSUM (CENTURIA I) ***</div> -<div style='text-align:left'> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Updated editions will replace the previous one—the old editions will -be renamed. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part -of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project -Gutenberg™ electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG™ -concept and trademark. 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