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| committer | nfenwick <nfenwick@pglaf.org> | 2025-01-25 12:36:55 -0800 |
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diff --git a/old/69975-h/69975-h.htm b/old/69975-h/69975-h.htm deleted file mode 100644 index aa36d9e..0000000 --- a/old/69975-h/69975-h.htm +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9298 +0,0 @@ -<!DOCTYPE html> -<html lang="en"> -<head> - <meta charset="UTF-8"> - <title> - Linotype Mechanism | Project Gutenberg - </title> - <link rel="icon" href="images/cover.jpg" type="image/x-cover"> - <style> - -body { - margin-left: 10%; - margin-right: 10%; -} - - h1,h2,h3 { - text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ - clear: both; -} - -p { - margin-top: .51em; - text-align: justify; - text-indent: 1em; - margin-bottom: .49em; -} - -hr { - width: 33%; - margin-top: 2em; - margin-bottom: 2em; - margin-left: 33.5%; - margin-right: 33.5%; - clear: both; -} - -hr.chap {width: 65%; margin-left: 17.5%; margin-right: 17.5%;} - -hr.r20 {width: 20%; margin-top: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 40%; margin-right: 40%;} - -div.chapter {page-break-before: always;} -h2.nobreak {page-break-before: avoid;} - -.fs60 {font-size: 60%} -.fs80 {font-size: 80%} - -ul.index { list-style-type: none; } -li.ifrst { - margin-top: 1em; - text-indent: -2em; - padding-left: 1em; -} -li.indx { - margin-top: .5em; - text-indent: -2em; - padding-left: 1em; -} - -table { - margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto; -} -table.autotable { border-collapse: collapse; } -.tdl {text-align: left;} -.tdr {text-align: right; line-height: 1.5em; padding-left: .5em; padding-right: .5em;} -.tdrn {text-align: right; line-height: 1em; padding-left: .5em; padding-right: .5em;} - -.pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ - /* visibility: hidden; */ - position: absolute; - left: 92%; - font-size: small; - text-align: right; - font-style: normal; - font-weight: normal; - font-variant: normal; - text-indent: 0; - color: #A9A9A9; -} /* page numbers */ - -.blockquot { - margin-left: 5%; - margin-right: 10%; -} - -.bb {border-bottom: 2px solid;} - -.bbd {border-bottom: 4px double;} - -.bt {border-top: 4px double;} - -.br {border-right: 2px solid;} - -.center {text-align: center;} - -.wsp {word-spacing: 0.3em;} - -.smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} - -/* Images */ - -img { - max-width: 100%; - height: auto; -} - -.figcenter { - margin: auto; - text-align: center; - page-break-inside: avoid; - max-width: 100%; -} - -/* Transcriber's notes */ -.transnote {background-color: #E6E6FA; - color: black; - font-size:small; - padding:0.5em; - margin-bottom:5em; - font-family:sans-serif, serif; -} - -.no-indent {text-indent: 0em;} - -.pageborder {width: 400px; border: 1px solid; padding: 40px; margin: auto;} - -h2 {font-size: 110%; font-weight: normal; line-height: 1.6em; word-spacing: .3em;} -h3 {font-size: 100%; font-weight: normal; line-height: 1.25em; word-spacing: .3em;} - -.xs {} - </style> -</head> -<body> -<p style='text-align:center; font-size:1.2em; font-weight:bold'>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Linotype mechanism, by Alvin G. Swank</p> -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online -at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you -are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this eBook. -</div> - -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: Linotype mechanism</p> -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Authors: Alvin G. Swank</p> -<p style='display:block; margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em;'>Raymond Means</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: February 7, 2023 [eBook #69975]</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</p> - <p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; text-align:left'>Produced by: Bob Taylor, deaurider and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive)</p> -<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LINOTYPE MECHANISM ***</div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 65%"> -<img src="images/cover.jpg" alt="Cover"> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="pageborder"> -<h1>LINOTYPE MECHANISM</h1> - - -<p class="center no-indent">By <span class="smcap">Alvin G. Swank</span> and<br> -<span class="smcap">Raymond Means</span></p> -<br><br> - -<p class="center fs80 no-indent">Published by<br> -SWANK AND MEANS<br> -729 N. Bosart Ave.<br> -Indianapolis, Indiana</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - - -<div class="chapter"> -<p class="center no-indent fs80 wsp">COPYRIGHTED 1924</p> -<p class="center no-indent fs60 wsp">PRINTED IN U. S. A.</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="Preface"><em>Preface</em></h2> -</div> - - -<p>Changes and improvements on the Linotype have been -frequent in the past, and will probably continue to be so in -the future. For this reason students, operators, machinists, -and owners should keep themselves posted on all matters -pertaining to the Linotype. The only way this can be -accomplished is by reading, studying, and observing. All -books, pamphlets, or trade journals dealing with printing -should be carefully read, and the articles pertaining to improvements -on typesetting machinery should be carefully -studied. Pamphlets or trade journals will either be discarded -or lost; whereas a book will be placed on the desk, -bench, or in the pocket of the one who desires to be well -informed of things dealing with the machine. Frequent -reading or reference will refresh the memory on minor -points forgotten or overlooked.</p> - -<p>This book has been produced as an endeavor to furnish -a much-needed text or reference book for the aid of the -Linotype student, the user, and the experienced worker. -Simple terms, which will enable the student to grasp the -fundamentals quickly, have been used throughout the book, -but when the name of a part is necessary, the catalog name -is used. No illustrations are used, as the book is intended -for use where the actual machine is available for study, -and the parts may be seen. The main parts of the machine -are listed with a description of their action and function. -Mechanical troubles that are common to the Linotype are -mentioned, together with helpful suggestions for their -remedy. All adjustments necessary to the proper care of -the machine are listed. The user of Linotypes will find helpful -hints as to the care and adjustments of the machines.</p> - -<p>In the schools using machines, this book will fill a long-felt -want. It is the first attempt to write a text book of -this nature that can be used in lesson form. The class -schedule will lead the student to a systematic study of the -machine. The text matter is so arranged that the student -is led in a natural way through the things he should know -first. With the schedule arrangement the instructor is -enabled to arrange his mechanism classes at any hour or as -many hours as he desires.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="THE_KEYBOARD">THE KEYBOARD</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The linotype keyboard is power driven and mechanically -operated, the operator merely touching the keybutton -lightly to get a matrix. The keyboard and escapement -mechanism consists of ninety-one mechanical units, or series -of levers, escapements, and cams—one series for each key on -the keyboard.</p> - -<p>The keyboard consists of the frame; the keylevers, -extending through the slots to the back of the keyboard -frame; the keylever fulcrum rods, which are the pivot rods -for the keylevers; the keybars, that groove into the rear -end of the keylevers; the keybar banking bar, (fastened to the -right- and left-hand keyboard posts), holding the keybars in -place; and the keyboard locking bar. The various parts of -the keyboard are held in their respective places by the keyboard -frame.</p> - -<p>Mounted on the top, at the rear of the keyboard, are -the two cam yoke frames. The keyboard cam yoke frames -contain the cams and the cam yokes, assembled; the cam -yoke triggers; the cam stop strips; the hinge rods; the keyboard -cam rubber roll shafts, with the pulleys or the gears -and friction springs; and the rubber rolls, assembled. The -frames are fastened to the keyboard posts by a screw at -each end of the frame, which extends through the rubber -roll shaft brackets. Both the frames are equipped with -cover pans.</p> - -<p>The keyboard action for releasing a matrix from the -magazine is as follows: When the keybutton is depressed -it lowers the outer end of the keylever, raising the back end. -The keylever raises the keybar. The keybar raises the lower -end of the trigger, causing the upper end to tilt. This allows -the free end of the cam yoke to drop, causing the cam to -engage the revolving rubber roll. The cam is revolved by -the rubber roll, and as it reaches the high point it raises -the free end of the cam yoke. This end of the cam yoke<span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</span> -engages the keyrod and causes it to be raised. The keyrod -operates the escapement mechanism in the magazine and -releases the matrix.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Keyboard Parts</span></h3> - -<p>The keylevers extend through slots in the keyboard -frame and are pivoted near their center by the fulcrum rods. -The front end of the keylevers carry the keybuttons and -the back ends fit into notches in the keybars.</p> - -<p>The keybars are held in place on the back of the -keyboard by the banking bar and the upper and lower keybar -guides. The keybars have notches on the upper end into -which the triggers set. Also there are notches into which -the keylevers extend. These notches are cut at different -points on each six keybars, to correspond with the point at -which the keylever protrudes through the frame.</p> - -<p>On the late model machines the keybars are made with -notches so they will fit in any alternate position, each bar -having three notches, any one of which will register with -the keylever. In removing the bars for cleaning, always -take them off in groups of six and keep them in order so -that no difficulty will be experienced in replacing them. It -is always better to replace each bar in its original place -after having them off.</p> - -<p>The keyboard locking bar extends across the back of -the keyboard, just above a shoulder on the keybars. When -this bar is forced down it prevents the keybar from being -raised, thus locking the keyboard.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Keyboard Cams and Parts</span></h3> - -<p>The keyboard cams are small, brass, non-circular or -eccentric pieces and are used to raise the cam yokes to -operate the keyrods. The cams are pivoted and held in -place in cam yokes. The outer end of the cam yokes are -pivoted to the frame, while the inner ends are left free to -move up or down in slots in the frame, directly underneath -the keyrods.</p> - -<p>When the cams are setting at normal, the free end of -the yokes are supported by the pivoted triggers, which set -directly beneath the yokes. When a trigger is moved by<span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</span> -the keybar, it allows the free end of the yoke to drop, carrying -the cam against the revolving rubber roll. The low part -of the cam has small teeth cut in it, so when it drops on the -revolving rubber roll, it is caused to turn. When the high -part of the revolving cam is on the rubber roll, the free end -of the cam yoke is raised to its highest point, raising the -keyrod.</p> - -<p>There are ninety-one cams and yokes in a keyboard. In -order to get the cams in the smallest possible space, forty-five -of them are located in the front frame, and forty-six -in the back frame. The cam on the right-hand end of the -back row is used to operate the spaceband lever.</p> - -<p>A stop strip is fastened by means of six screws to each -cam frame in such a manner that the small cross pins in -the revolving cams come in contact with small pins which -extend downward, stopping the cams after their revolution -and holding them in normal position. The front strip has -forty-five teeth and the rear strip has forty-six teeth; therefore -they are not interchangeable. The strip should be -located so the teeth do not bind the sides of the cams.</p> - -<p>The top row of keys on the keyboard operate the cams -in the back frame, the keys in the second row operate the -cams in the front frame, the third in the back, etc., alternating -for each row, so when tracing keyboard troubles it -is known in which frame an offending cam will be found.</p> - -<p>Several types of cam yokes have been manufactured for -the various models of machines. Some are made of brass, -others are stamped out of steel, while still another kind is -milled out of a solid piece of steel. Different methods of -fastening the pivoted end of the yoke have also been used. -The older models were held by a pivot wire which ran -through the yoke. The later models, however, have spring -bars which set just above the pivoted end of the yoke, the -yoke being hooked on the hinge rod and held down by a -spring and plunger directly above the yoke, in the bar. This -spring and plunger takes the strain off the yoke and keyrod -when in an unusually heavy pull, and prevents damage to -the rubber rolls.</p> - -<p>On the top of the spring bar is an adjusting screw bushing -through which the plunger projects. This plunger is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</span> -forced against the top of the cam yoke by a spring. As the -free end of the cam yoke raises, the spring must be strong -enough to hold the pivoted end of the yoke from raising more -than enough to give the full stroke of the keyrod. If something -prevents the free movement of the escapement, the -strain would come to the pivoted end of the yoke, forcing the -plunger up, thus releasing the keyrod, cam, or rubber roll -of undue strain. If this spring becomes weak, it will allow -the pivoted end of the yoke to raise too high, thus lessening -the up stroke of the keyrod. This shortened stroke of the -keyrod does not permit the full stroke operation of the -escapement, and does not allow the matrix to drop.</p> - -<p>A weak spring will sometimes cause the matrix to drop -slowly, due to the lug of the matrix binding on the lower -pawl. By using the adjusting bushing this trouble can be -remedied. Be careful in adjusting the spring, because too -much tension will cause the cam to cut the rubber roll.</p> - -<p>On some models the spaceband cam is of a different -shape or larger than the other cams. This is done to accomplish -the timing of the dropping of the spacebands.</p> - -<p>To remove a single cam from the frame, shut off the -power of the machine, take off the cover pans, touch the -keybutton of the desired cam, draw out the pivot wire on -old models or release the latch and tilt the spring bar on -new models, turn the rubber rolls by hand until the end of -the cam yoke raises, then lift the yoke and cam out.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Keyboard Rubber Rolls</span></h3> - -<p>The rubber rolls are held on shafts which extend through -the cam frame. The right end of the shafts run in bushings -which are held in the cam frame by a screw extending -through the cam frame bracket into the shaft bushing. -Two kinds of rubber rolls may be obtained: corrugated and -ground. The rolls must be kept free from oil at all times. -About once each month they should be removed and washed -with soap and water to remove all oil, and freshen the -rubber. The rubber roll may be livened up by the use of -course sandpaper, rubbing from end to end and turning -the roll so it does not become flat. The roll should be washed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</span> -after using the sandpaper to remove the small particles of -rubber that may be adhering to the surface.</p> - -<p>If the rubber rolls become worn until they are grooved -where the cams operate on them, or if they become hard -with long use, they should be replaced with new rubber. -Good, live rubber rolls have much to do with quick, even -response of the matrices.</p> - -<p>A rubber roll that is in good shape with the exception of -a groove or two, can be used by cutting out the worn parts -and placing in a good piece of another roll and fitting it to -the shaft. Save parts of old rubber rolls for this purpose. -They at least may be valuable for emergency patching, until -a new roll can be ordered from the factory.</p> - -<p>The rubber roll shafts are driven by friction, so that -if anything binds unduly the shaft will stop, preventing -damage to the rubber.</p> - -<p>To replace a rubber roll, remove the old roll, polish the -shaft, using care to clean thoroughly. A new roll must fit -tightly and if the shaft is not clean and smooth, it will be -hard to force the new roll on. Place the shaft in an upright -position, start the end of the roll through the pulley end of -the shaft. Place your thumb or hand over the other end of -the roll to hold in the air and push down on the roll until it -is in position.</p> - -<p>On the later models the shaft carries a collar, pin, and -oil collar on each end. This assembly must be removed on one -end before the roll can be removed. The collar is held to the -shaft by a taper pin and the oil collar forced over the top -of the pin and collar. This oil collar must be pried off before -the pin can be driven out.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Keyboard Troubles</span></h3> - -<p>Many of the mechanical troubles will be found in the -keyboard, such as continuous response or non-response of -matrices.</p> - -<p>The keylevers sometimes get gummy or sprung to one -side and bind on the frame, causing a continuous response -of matrices. Another cause for continuous response may -often be traced to some foreign substance such as metal -shavings or dirt getting between the keylever and the frame.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</span></p> - -<p>A large percentage of keyboard troubles can be traced -to the keybars. Most continuous response trouble is due -to dirty or sticking keybars. These bars have several -points of contact with other parts, and frequently a very -small particle of dirt or dust will prevent the proper return -of the keybar after being raised. This will hold the trigger -out from under the cam yoke, which will continue to -revolve and cause more than one matrix to drop. This -trouble can usually be remedied by blowing out all dust -from around the keybars and then washing them with -gasoline, using a squirt can or brush to apply the gasoline. -Before applying the gasoline, it is best to place a pan or cloth -beneath the keybars to catch the surplus gasoline.</p> - -<p>Be very careful not to get any gasoline on the cams or -rubber rolls, as it will cut the lubrication on the yoke pivot -and soften the rubber roll. After washing the bars, blow -the surplus gasoline off with an air hose or bellows. Keep -the air from the keyboard cams as much as possible, as it -has a tendency to dry the oil on the yoke pivot pins, causing -slow moving cams.</p> - -<p>Sometimes the trouble is above the keybar banking bar. -In this case it will be necessary to remove the back cam -frame to clean the bars above the banking bar.</p> - -<p>Should the keyboard locking bar become loose it may -drop down a trifle and, preventing free action of the keybars, -make the keyboard touch heavy.</p> - -<p>In addition to the continuous response caused by the -keylever or keybar, sometimes a dirty and sticking trigger -or the trigger hinge rod being bent will cause this trouble. -If one of the pins in the stop strip or the cam becomes worn -or broken, the cam will continue to revolve.</p> - -<p>Some of the common troubles of non-response might be -caused by the free end of the cam yoke being dirty or -gummy, a rusty, gummy, or bent cam yoke hinge rod, not -allowing the cam to drop. A dry cam pivot will often prevent -the cam from turning. A hard or oily rubber roll will -not cause the cam to turn, especially on a cold morning. A -tooth on the stop strip being bent sideways might bind the -cam. Something binding the rubber roll, not allowing it to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</span> -revolve, stops all cam response. A dry cam pivot or a -sluggish cam will cause transposition of letters.</p> - -<p>To locate the cause of a non-response, first observe if -the keyrod is moving. If it is, the trouble will probably be -found in the magazine or magazine escapement. If the -keyrod does not raise, look for the trouble in the keyboard.</p> - -<p>Do not take the keyboard apart every time a few matrices -fail to respond correctly. It is much quicker to correct -the trouble with the individual parts that may be bothering. -Always locate the cause of the trouble before attempting to -correct it.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="KEYBOARD_LAYOUT">KEYBOARD LAYOUT</h2> -</div> - - -<p>There are two standard layouts in common use. The one -most commonly used, especially in commercial shops, has -the small capital layout shown on the keybuttons. The -fractions run as side sorts when this layout is used. In -the other standard layout the fractions are run in the keyboard. -This is frequently used on newspapers for setting -markets, stock reports, and tables, where a great number of -fractions are used.</p> - -<p>There are a variety of different keyboard layouts for different -classes of work, but no great variation from the -standard layout is advisable.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="TO_REMOVE_THE_KEYBOARD_CAM_FRAMES">TO REMOVE THE KEYBOARD CAM FRAMES</h2> -</div> - - -<p>Be sure the keyrods are connected to the verges on the -models 1, 2, 3, 4, or 5. On the models 1, 2, or 3 the keyboard -should not be locked with the locking bar.</p> - -<p>Take off the cover pans and the cover tray, remove the -two screws that extend through the rubber roll shaft -bracket, pull the frame off dowel pins.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CLEANING_THE_KEYBOARD_CAMS">CLEANING THE KEYBOARD CAMS</h2> -</div> - - -<p>Whenever the keyboard cams become dirty and several -of them are causing trouble, the entire set should be removed -from the frame and cleaned. Do not take the entire set off, -however, every time a cam fails to act. If there are but -a few cams bothering, it is much quicker to take out these -individual cams and clean them.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</span></p> - -<p>The entire set of cams will usually need cleaning and -oiling every three or four months in the average shop. Due -to some particular shop surroundings, this time often varies.</p> - -<p>To clean the cams, remove the keyboard cam frames -from the machine; take out the rubber rolls, assembled; release -the pivot end of the cam yokes and remove the cams. -The sides of the cam yokes at each end and the outer surface -of the cam should be thoroughly cleaned. Dry the cam -by wiping with a lintless rag and blowing with an air hose -or bellows. The triggers should then be removed and -cleaned. While the cams and triggers are out of the frame, -the frame should be washed clean. Gasoline or denatured -alcohol should be used for washing and cleaning the various -parts. A jeweler’s brush will be found useful in cleaning -the various parts.</p> - -<p>Before replacing the triggers, polish them with graphite -and string them on a pivot wire to make sure that no dirt -nor grit has gotten into the pivot holes during the cleaning.</p> - -<p>Clean the rubber rolls before replacing them.</p> - -<p>Before replacing the cams in the frame the pivots should -be oiled. Use only a good grade of clock or watch oil and -put a small drop on the pivot. A broomstraw or ordinary -pen will be found convenient for applying the oil. Be sure -to wipe off all surplus oil to prevent it being transferred -to the rubber rolls.</p> - -<p>NOTE—Before replacing the frames in position on the -machine, see that the bracket screws that extend into the -frame at each end are loose. If the screws draw the brackets -too tight, difficulty will be experienced in seating the -brackets to the dowels on the posts. Be sure to lock the -keyboard cam yoke triggers by running a wire through the -upper holes in the triggers. This is done so the triggers -will enter the slots in the keybars. See that all cams are in -normal position. This is necessary so the cam yokes will -pass under the lower end of the keyrods.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="TO_TAKE_A_KEYBOARD_APART">TO TAKE A KEYBOARD APART</h2> -</div> - - -<p>Whenever it is necessary to take the keyboard apart to -clean, it should be removed from the machine in the following -manner: Remove the keyboard cam frames. Remove<span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</span> -the assembling elevator lever. Procure a strip of wood -furniture fifteen inches long, which is the proper length to -just pass inside of the frame posts, fasten a strong cord to -each end of the wood strip, take off the keyboard locking -bar, place the strip of wood along the back of the keybars, -bring the string inside of the side posts to the front of the -keyboard. Draw the two ends of the string tight, so that -the strip can not move, and fasten it to the keylevers. Take -out the two keyboard side plate bracket screws (on each -side at the rear of the keyboard frame). Take out the four -keyboard front plate screws. Remove the two screws which -hold the keybar banking bar to the posts and pull the bar off -the dowel pins. Pull the frame toward the front of the -machine and lift it out. Place the frame on a bench or -table in a slightly inclined position with the rear end the -higher. Take out the lower row of keylevers by removing -the fulcrum rod. Take off the keybars, keeping them in -their regular order. Take out the remaining keylevers by -removing the fulcrum rods. Wash the keylevers in denatured -alcohol or gasoline, brushing vigorously with a -jeweler’s brush the parts that come in contact with the -frame. If there is any corrosion left, polish the levers with -metal polish; wipe them dry with a clean rag. The keybars -should be cleaned in a like manner, but rub each side of -each keybar on a graphite board instead of using metal -polish. Wash the frame of the keyboard thoroughly, and -wipe dry. If an air hose is available, blow all the parts dry -with the air.</p> - -<p>When reassembling the keyboard, work upward. Place -the lower row of keylevers in first, run the fulcrum rod -through the holes; then assemble the next rows, using the -same procedure for each row. This method makes it easy to -assemble the keylevers.</p> - -<p>After the board has been assembled, test out each key -to see that it is working freely, before replacing the strip -of wood.</p> - -<p>When replacing the banking bar the slot in the keybars -must fit over the bar; raise up on all the keybars with the -plate extending underneath them until the banking bar -dowel pins fit into the dowel pin holes.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</span></p> - -<p>It is usually necessary to clean the entire keyboard only -once or twice a year unless the shop conditions around the -machine are very dirty.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="KEYRODS">KEYRODS</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The keyrods rest just above the free end of the keyboard -cam yokes and extend upward to the escapement -mechanism. They are the connection between the escapements -and the keyboard cams. On the models 1, 2, 3, 4, -and 5, the keyrods are numbered from 1 to 90; the spaceband -being a short rod, it is not necessary for it to be -numbered. They are held in place by two guides. The lower -guide is between the cam frames. On models 1, 2, 3, 4, -and 5, the upper guide is directly under the magazine at -the front. The object of the upper guide is to hold the keyrods -in place when locking them on the verges, as they -should rest squarely on the verges.</p> - -<p>On the model 1 the upper guides are adjustable sidewise -by changing the position of the brass lug on the right -side of the magazine in which the tongue of the guide fits. -In making this adjustment use the lower case “p” as a -guide. On the models 3 and 5 there is a screw bushing in -the right-hand side of the intermediate bracket for the -adjustment of the keyrod upper guide.</p> - -<p>When replacing keyrods in the guides, start at the left-hand -side with the first slot in the bottom guide, but leave -the first slot open in the top guide. This guide slot is for an -extra keyrod for use in the special double “e” attachment -which may be applied.</p> - -<p>The keyrods vary in length on the different models. On -models 8, 14, 14-s-k, 18, 19, 9, and K the keyrods are very -short and are used to operate a curved lever known as the -escapement lever, which in turn operates the escapement.</p> - -<p>On models 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, the keyrod is pulled back to -its proper position by the keyrod spring. The action of this -spring in pulling the keyrod to position stresses the verge -spring and pulls the escapement into normal, allowing the -rear pawl to release the matrix so it can slide into position -to be caught and held by the front pawl.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</span></p> - -<p>On models K, 8, 14, 14-s-k, 18, 19, and 9 the keyrod is -returned to position by the weight of the escapement lever, -and by its own weight, the verge spring pulling the escapement -back into position.</p> - -<p>On the later model 1 the keyrods have a groove near -the upper ends and a supporting rail attached to the upper -guide plate which keeps them from dropping when they are -disconnected from the verges.</p> - -<p>On the model 5 this supporting rail is near the bottom -end of the keyrods, just above the keyrod springs, and is -connected to a short handle at the right end above the keyboard. -The keyrods can be disconnected from the verges -only when the handle is lifted.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="AUXILIARY_KEYRODS">AUXILIARY KEYRODS</h2> -</div> - - -<p>On models 14 and 19 there is an auxiliary magazine -which has 28 channels. There are 28 short keyrods assembled -the same as on a model 5. These keyrods are operated by -an auxiliary keyboard. There is a supporting rail at the -upper end of these keyrods, connected with a handle at the -right side of the auxiliary bracket. The keyrods can only -be disconnected from the verges when the handle is lifted. -These keyrods are disconnected the same as on a model 5 -machine.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="MODEL_FOURTEEN_SINGLE_KEYBOARD">MODEL FOURTEEN SINGLE KEYBOARD</h2> -</div> - - -<p>On the new model 14, known as model 14 single keyboard, -there are 34 channels and short keyrods on the -auxiliary instead of 28. These keyrods are operated from -the regular keyboard. There is a lug pressed in the back -of the keyrods. These lugs are staggered on the various -keyrods and come in contact with a series of pivoted levers -in a box containing 34 of these levers, fastened at the back -of the keyrods of the main part of the machine.</p> - -<p>The main keyrods, from the figure 1 up to and including -the caps (34 in all), have a lug pressed into the back -side of them. These lugs are also staggered on the keyrods -so they can be brought into contact with the fulcrumed -levers in the box. This box is known as a bail box.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</span></p> - -<p>The upper keyrod guide slots are made longer for these -keyrods to slide back or forth, actuated by a hand lever -that is placed below the assembler entrance and resting on -the delivery slideway. The auxiliary is brought into operation -by shoving back on this lever, which brings the keyrods -and lugs in contact with the bail box levers, and they in -turn operate the keyrods of the auxiliary whenever a key -is touched.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="MAGAZINES_AND_ESCAPEMENTS">MAGAZINES AND ESCAPEMENTS</h2> -</div> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Escapement Mechanism</span></h3> - -<p>The escapement mechanism of models 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 -machines consists of two pawls, a verge, and a verge spring -for each character in the magazine. The verge is hinged on -a pivot rod. The lower end of the pawls are seated in the -verge, and the upper end projects through the under side of -the magazine and engages the lower lugs of the matrices. -When the escapement is at its normal position, the lower or -front pawl extends up into the magazine and holds the -column of matrices in the channel. The end of the upper -pawl is flush with the bottom of the channel groove. The -verge and pawls are held in this position by the keyrod, -which hooks onto the verge. This keyrod is held down by -its own weight and a spring near its lower end. The verge -spring, which sets directly back of and against the verge, -has its tension upward on the verge. When the key is -touched and the cam yoke raises the keyrod, it releases the -verge, which is pulled upward by the verge spring. This -action lowers the front pawl and raises the back pawl, releasing -the front matrix. The back pawl detains the other -matrices, holding them in the channel until the verge is restored -to normal. The keyrod spring pulls the keyrod down. -The verge, being hooked to the keyrod is pulled down also. -This brings the front pawl up and the back pawl down, -letting the matrix slide to position ready for the next escapement. -This verge action is the same on all single magazine -models.</p> - -<p>Each magazine of a model 1, 2, or 3 machine carries the -escapement assembly on the bottom, at the front, directly -above the keyrod upper guide.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</span></p> - -<p>On a model 5 the verge escapement is fastened by means -of two screws and two dowel pins to the intermediate bracket -of the machine. To remove: Take off the magazine and then -raise the keyrods with the hand lever at the right of the -keyrods. This will leave the keyrods free to be pushed back -from the verges, by withdrawing the spring pin which holds -the upper keyrod guide to the verge pivot rod at the right-hand -side, under the escapements, and pushing back on the -guide. The escapements can then be removed by taking out -the two screws, one at each end, and lift off the dowel pins.</p> - -<p>The escapement mechanism of models 8, 14, 18, 19, -14-s-k, and K is similar to the model explained above, except -that the verge spring pulls downward on the verge instead -of upward, as in the other models. The escapement is operated -by the escapement lever and a plunger from the front. -The keyrod forces the escapement lever upward. The lever -strikes the plunger and forces it against the verge.</p> - -<p>The model 8 or 14 verge escapements can be removed -by raising the magazine and pushing the escapement back -from between the escapement supports.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="MAGAZINES">MAGAZINES</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The magazine is the receptacle in which a font of matrices -is stored on the machine, ready for instant use as the -matrices are desired in assembling a line. Some of the main -features of the different model machines are the number -of magazines carried on the machine at one time, the size -or width of the magazine, and the manner of removing the -magazines.</p> - -<p>The magazine or channel plate consists of 92 channels -milled in the brass plates, which guide the lugs of the matrices -and keep them in line, so as to pass the escapements -one at a time. Model 1 magazines have the old style channel -entrances, attached to each magazine frame. The model 1 -magazines are narrow, and will only carry matrices up to -and including 11-point. The escapements of this model are -fastened directly to the magazine.</p> - -<p>The magazine for a model 2 or 3 machine is practically -the same as a model 1 in construction, with the exception -of being two inches wider at the lower end.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</span></p> - -<p>The verges on these models are practically the same as -on the model 1, but on account of the difference in width of -the magazines, are thicker. In this style the verges are -locked by turning the grooved escapement verge locking -bar one-fourth of a turn. This is turned by the crank at the -right-hand side of the magazine. The keyboard is locked -with a bar the same as the model 1.</p> - -<p>The channel entrance is similar to the model 1.</p> - -<p>The lower magazine of the model 2 is shorter than the -upper magazine. The matrices are released by the same -keyboard mechanism. The escapements, however, are on -the top of the magazine instead of beneath it. Each keyrod -has a lug fastened to the back end of it, which engages the -escapement levers connected to the escapements. When the -lower magazine is being used, the keyrod is raised and -allows the verge spring to operate the escapement, releasing -the matrix. The keyrod spring pulls the escapement lever -down. This lever brings the escapement into position, ready -to release another matrix.</p> - -<p>The escapements on both magazines are capable of -movement, as the verge springs of both tend to raise the -escapements, but are prevented from doing so by the keyrod -spring. The matrices are prevented from escaping from -both magazines at the same time by a pair of grooved rods, -which lie between the verges and the magazine. The locks on -these rods are so arranged that the locking of one escapement -unlocks the other, the movement of these being controlled -by a hand lever at the right of the face plate, directly -above the keyboard.</p> - -<p>The model 3 magazine is the same as the model 2 -(upper). The escapement action is also the same.</p> - -<p>The upper magazine of a model 4 is a removable magazine -which is independent of the escapement mechanism or -the channel entrance. This magazine is as wide as the model -2 or 3, but is not interchangeable with them. This magazine -is interchangeable with those of a model 5, 8, 14, 18, 19, or -14-s-k.</p> - -<p>The lower magazine of a model 4 is the same as a model -2, but it is easily removed from the machine, as the escapement -mechanism is independent of the magazine.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</span></p> - -<p>The escapement on the model 4 is the same as on the -model 2, except that the escapement mechanism is fastened -to the machine brackets instead of to the magazine.</p> - -<p>On models 2 and 4 there are two channels of lower case -“e” matrices. The mechanism for the operation of the -double “e” is one keyboard cam to be connected alternately -to the two short keyrods which connect with the two “e” -verges. The shifting of a short keyrod from one to the other -keyrods is accomplished by the raising of the assembling -elevator, which operates a lever fastened to the assembling -elevator link. This link comes in contact with a pawl and -ratchet that operate the short keyrod by shifting alternately. -This attachment can be applied to any model of machine.</p> - -<p>The model 5 is a quick change machine. The magazine -changes from the front and can be lifted off by one person. -The escapement mechanism is separate from the magazine.</p> - -<p>The model 5 magazine is the same as the model 4 and is -interchangeable with any of the above mentioned models -except models 1, 2, or 3.</p> - -<p>The No. 5 (English) magazine is now known as the -standard magazine. This magazine is used on all models -4, 5, 8, 14, 14-s-k, 18, and 19 machines.</p> - -<p>The model 8 machine carries 3 of these No. 5 magazines. -All magazines may be changed from the front of the machine. -The magazines are interchangeable as to their position -in the machine. They are also interchangeable with -the same No. 5 magazines on other machines.</p> - -<p>The model 14 is the same as the model 8, except that it -has an auxiliary magazine.</p> - -<p>Model 18, which carries two magazines, uses the same -magazines as a model 5, 8, or 14. The escapements are hung -to the magazine frame, but are like the model 5, 8, or 14 -escapements, and are held in place by two spring clamps -that fit over the top of the magazines at the front. By shifting -a lever at the right of the magazine frame, the position -of the magazines is changed.</p> - -<p>The model 19 is the same as the model 18, except that it -has an auxiliary magazine.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="REMOVING_A_MAGAZINE">REMOVING A MAGAZINE</h2> -</div> - - -<p>It is sometimes necessary to remove the magazines of -any model of machine for the purpose of cleaning or repairing, -or to change the type face.</p> - -<p>Read carefully the instructions for the removing of the -magazines until you become thoroughly familiar with the -order of procedure. To forget one operation or to perform -an operation at the wrong time may cause the matrices to -be spilled or something more serious.</p> - -<p>To remove a model 1 magazine: Lock the verges by placing -the locking wire above the shoulder of the back pawls, -lock the keyboard by inserting the locking rod in the slotted -hole in the right-hand keyboard post and shove the rod -through the full length of the keyboard. This rod passes -under the end of the keyboard cam yokes and raises them, -which raises the keyrods off the verges a trifle. Unlatch -the upper keyrod guide at the right-hand side and move -the keyrods off the verges. Pull the flexible front of the -assembler plate forward as far as the chain permits it to -come. Remove the tray under the rear channel entrance, -raise the magazine to a level position and push it through -toward the rear and lift out carefully. It requires two persons -to remove a magazine of this model.</p> - -<p>In returning the magazine be careful that it is moved -forward the full distance before the front end is lowered; -or the lift lever of the distributor box may be damaged.</p> - -<p>To remove the upper magazine from a model 2: Unlatch -the connecting links between the verge locks, throw -the verge lock of the upper magazine down one-fourth -of a turn, and slip the sliding block on the side of the upper -magazine downward. This holds the upper verge lock. Lock -the keyboard, and depress the pin beneath the verges of the -upper magazine, at the right. This pin holds the keyrod -guide and keyrods to the verges. Push the guide back and -disconnect the keyrods. The lower end of the upper magazine -can now be raised and the magazine drawn out of the -machine at the back. Use care not to damage the lower -magazine or back entrance.</p> - -<p>To remove the lower magazine of a model 2: Remove<span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</span> -the upper magazine, throw the keyrods forward with the -lever, draw out the rod beneath the magazine mouth. This -rod holds the matrix guides for the lower magazine in place. -Lift out the magazine, using care not to damage the escapements -or levers.</p> - -<p>To remove the model 5 magazine: Insert the locking -strip, pressing it firmly in place. This bar holds the matrices -in the channels. The bar also releases the lock at the left-hand -side of the magazine and permits the cam levers to be -turned or brought forward into position for holding the -magazine. Pull forward the spring lock which fits over the -lower end of the magazine. With the cam levers, raise the -magazine frame. Lift the front end of the magazine and it -will slide forward; then by allowing the lower end to drop, -the magazine will hang in a vertical position on the levers. -Close the cover at the top of the magazine and lift off.</p> - -<p>The above method of locking must be followed with -any No. 5 magazine on any model.</p> - -<p>To remove any of the three magazines from a model -8 or 14 proceed in the following manner:</p> - -<p>Any magazine should be in operating position before -it is removed.</p> - -<p>The upper magazine is removed similarly to a model 5. -Place the locking rod in the magazine to lock the matrices -and unlock the catch at left of the magazine. Take off the -bar which extends across the top side of the magazine. -Turn the cam levers forward, and lift the magazine off.</p> - -<p>To remove the second magazine: Insert the locking bar -in the top and second magazines. Raise the magazines with -the elevating mechanism, as high as they will go. Place the -frame supports under the upper magazine frame. Remove -the bar which extends across the top side of the top magazine. -Turn the elevating crank until the frame descends -and the second magazine is in operating position, leaving -the upper magazine elevated. Place the right- and left-hand -cams on the second magazine frame. Lift out the escapements -of the upper magazine. Then proceed as in removing -the upper magazine.</p> - -<p>To remove the third magazine: Remove the two upper -magazines and take off the frame cams; take out the eight<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</span> -screws that hold the right- and left-hand gibs to the frame -guides; remove the gibs, using care not to get them mixed. -Remove the two frames from the guides; take out the two -clamps that hold the lower magazine at the rear. Have a -helper stand on the frame of the machine in the rear, and -reach over the top of the distributor beam to assist in lifting -the magazine, while the operator in front gradually -raises the magazine clear of the escapement frame. Take -out the escapements by removing the two screws in the -left-hand support and pry it off dowel pin holes. Be careful -to hold the escapement with one hand so it does not drop.</p> - -<p>To remove a magazine from a model 18 or 19: Put the -lower magazine in operating position. Insert the locking -strips. Pull the lever at the left down as far as it will go, -which spreads apart the two magazines. Drop the escapements -down by releasing the two spring clamps that fit over -the top of the magazine. The clamp on the left is fitted -with a lock so it can not be dropped unless the locking strip -is all the way through. Fasten the two shoes for the magazine -bar to slide on, in the holes provided for them, and lift -off magazine from the front. Either magazine can be -lifted off.</p> - -<p>In making the above changes, be sure you have locked -the magazine. In replacing the magazine on the escapements -be sure that the magazine is seated properly before -removing the locking bar.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">New Model 8 and 14 Single Keyboard</span></h3> - -<p>These models change practically the same as other -models, but the lower magazine can be changed as easily -and quickly as the top or center magazines.</p> - -<p>This is accomplished by changes in the locating rods, -guides, and elevating screw which permit raising the magazine -frames higher, clearing the assembler plate far enough -to slide the lower magazine out the same as the other two.</p> - -<p>The escapements are hung to the magazine frame in -the same manner as the models 18 and 19, and are held in -place by the clamps, but the latter clamps are tightened by -means of screws and knurled knobs instead of springs.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</span></p> - -<p>To remove a magazine from a late model 8 or 14-s-k: Put -the magazine in operating position next to the one to be -changed; if the top one is to be changed, put the second -magazine in operating position; if the second one, place the -lower magazine in position. Lock the locking strip, drop -the escapements down by releasing the two knurled knob -screws that clamp the escapement over the top of the magazine. -Pull the lever at the left down as far as it will go; -fasten the two shoes for the magazine bar to slide on in the -lugs provided for them and lift off the magazine from the -front.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Split Magazines</span></h3> - -<p>Split magazines can be used on models 8, 14, 14-s-k, 18, -19, 21, and 22. These magazines are just half the length of -the regular magazines and carry 12 matrices of each -character. These magazines are very handy, where a large -amount of changes are made, because of their lightness. On -account of the short fonts carried, they are not desirable -for use below 12-point, except in some job faces.</p> - -<p>These magazines are changed the same as the full length -magazines.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Auxiliary Magazines</span></h3> - -<p>Auxiliary magazines are narrow, having only 28 channels, -and are operated by separate auxiliary escapements, -keyrods, and keyboard. They are extensively used for carrying -headletter and advertising fonts, and two-line figures. -They can be changed the same as changing a model 5 -magazine.</p> - -<p>The newer style auxiliary, used on the model 14 single -keyboard, is wider and has 34 channels; permitting the -use of larger faces and carrying more of an assortment of -characters than the older model. This magazine is operated -by separate keyrods and escapements connecting with the -regular keyboard through the medium of a series of fulcrumed -levers, which can, by the operation of a small lever, -be brought into instant use at will from the regular keyboard.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Model K</span></h3> - -<p>The model K is a two magazine machine with magazines -the same width as the model 1. This model does not -differ materially from a model 1 except that it has two -interchangeable narrow magazines supported in a frame -similar to the frame of a model 19. The magazines are -changed by pulling a lever at the right of the magazine -frame. This machine carries the short keyrods, escapement -levers, and escapements similar to a model 19, except that -the escapements are fastened to the magazine. These magazines -are changed from the front. They are not interchangeable -with a model 1 magazine. The other parts of the -machine are the same as any of the other models.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Model L</span></h3> - -<p>The model L is a rebuilt machine along the same lines -as a model 5. The magazine changes from the front the -same as a model 5. The escapements are fastened to the -intermediate brackets similar to a model 5.</p> - -<p>To change a magazine on this model: Lock the matrices -by inserting the locking strip, pressing it firmly in place. -Raise the cam levers to positions, lift the front end of the -magazine, and it will slide forward. By allowing the lower -end to drop, the magazine will hang in a vertical position -ready to be lifted off.</p> - -<p>To remove the verges from this model it is necessary to -use the locking rod that comes with the machine. This rod -is similar to the one used on the model 1, except it has an -extra strip at the top which raises the keyrods higher. -Insert this strip in the hole in the keyboard post at the -right; push through as far as it will go. This will lift the -keyrods free of the verges; they can now be pushed back by -releasing the latch that holds the upper keyrod guides to the -verge pivot rod at the right, and pushing back on the guide. -The escapements can now be removed by taking out the two -screws, one at each end, and lift off dowel pins.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="TO_REMOVE_A_VERGE">TO REMOVE A VERGE</h2> -</div> - - -<p>Remove the magazine or escapements from the machine -and place bottom side up on a bench or table. On a model 1, -with a pair of duck bill pliers, straighten the bent ears on -the verge partition which holds the narrow brass locking -strip in place. Raise the strip to a point beyond the desired -verge. (On the other models there is no strip to be removed.) -Push out the pivot rod with another rod of the same size, -until you reach the desired verge; separate the ends of the -two rods and lift out the verge and its pawls. Verges are -made in various sizes and care should be taken that a verge -of the same size is used in replacing. Examine the verge -and pawl to see that there is nothing to retard its free -action. Examine the verge spring for wear at the point of -contact with the verge. If the verge does not work freely -the matrices can not drop properly.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Failure of Matrices to Respond</span><br> -(<em>Due to trouble above the keyboard</em>)</h3> - -<p>When the matrices fail to respond to the touch and the -keyboard and keyrods have been found to be working -properly, the trouble may be due to: Dirty magazine, dirty -matrices, bent or damaged lugs on the matrices, weak verge -spring, bent verge pawl, bent verge plunger, broken verge, -verge not making full stroke, magazine not aligning with -the assembler front partitions, matrix laying flat in the -magazine and holding others back, no matrices in the channel, -battered channel, keyrod spring weak or off.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CLEANING_A_MAGAZINE">CLEANING A MAGAZINE</h2> -</div> - - -<p>To clean a magazine, run out all the matrices into a -galley and place the magazine in a convenient place for -cleaning. Magazines which have the verges assembled on -them should be placed with the bottom side up in order to -prevent the dirt getting in around the pawls while cleaning. -With a good magazine brush, clean all dirt and gum from -the inside of the magazine. If the magazine is very dirty, -first use a little good gasoline or denatured alcohol on the -brush to cut all the gum loose. Brush the magazine and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</span> -use the air until dry on the inside. Then polish the inside -by applying a very small amount of graphite on the brush -and rubbing briskly.</p> - -<p>In cleaning a magazine, be sure that all the little dark -spots, which show where the lugs of the matrices set in the -magazine, are removed. These spots are gum which forms -in the magazine, due to oil and dirt which are carried in on -the lugs of the matrices. If these spots are not entirely -removed it would be better not to clean the magazine at all. -When they are merely loosened up by the cleaning, the -matrices will be held back and will not drop regularly.</p> - -<p>Frequently the bristles of the brush will get caught in -the partitions of the magazine and pull out of the brush. -These can usually be removed by dragging the edge of a -soft pine yard-stick across them.</p> - -<p>Keep the various parts of the machine, with which the -matrices come in contact, clean and free from oil, and the -magazine will not get dirty for some time.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CLEANING_MATRICES">CLEANING MATRICES</h2> -</div> - - -<p>Matrices to be cleaned should be placed on a flat galley. -With an ink eraser (Banner Eberhard Faber No. 1071) -remove the gum or dirt from the lugs and the face. Then -blow the loose dust off with the air. Place another galley -bottom side up over the galley of matrices and turn both -galleys and the matrices over. The back lugs and back side -of the matrices may then be cleaned the same as the face.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Magazine Hints</span></h3> - -<p>Never oil the escapements nor put oil in the magazine. -To do so will cause escapement trouble.</p> - -<p>Do not slam the magazine entrance when closing it. -There may be a matrix overhanging the edge that you have -overlooked, and you will damage the matrix and the back -end of the magazine.</p> - -<p>Never pound the magazine to make matrices drop. -Locate the cause of the trouble and remove it.</p> - -<p>Don’t forget, when pulling down the magazine entrance, -to do so quickly, as opening it slowly is liable to cause a -matrix to fall into the magazine flatwise.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</span></p> - -<p>Never try to force a matrix past the escapement. If it -will not come through easily, pull it out the back way.</p> - -<p>A wooden reglet with a rubber band around the end -will be found convenient for removing a flat matrix from -the magazine.</p> - -<p>Never attempt to remove a magazine without first inserting -the locking bar.</p> - -<p>Do not expect a rusty or bent locking bar to work freely. -Clean it; if bent, straighten it.</p> - -<p>Never put a No. 5 magazine on the machine until you -have run your fingers along the opening at the back side of -the lower end to make sure there are no matrices with the -lugs in the opening. If there are, push them back in the -magazine. Just one lug in this opening will prevent the -magazine seating properly.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="ASSEMBLING_ELEVATOR">ASSEMBLING ELEVATOR</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The assembling elevator is held in place on the face plate -by the two gibs, one on each side, and by the assembler roll -bracket on the lower right-hand side.</p> - -<p>The assembling elevator on all the later model machines -consists of two castings, held together at the bottom by a -large screw and dowel pins. The two castings carry, as the -main parts, the assembler gate, retaining pawls, the duplex -rails, the buffer parts on which the matrices strike, the releasing -pin, the latch, and the detaining plates.</p> - -<p>The matrices, when falling from the magazines, are -guided downward by a series of flexible partitions. These -partitions are thin strips fastened to the assembler plate -and are bent at an angle at the bottom to cause the matrix -to drop flat on an endless conveyer belt which carries them -to the assembler rails. These rails are so shaped that the -matrices slide between them and the chute spring into the -assembling elevator and are moved forward into the -elevator by a star wheel.</p> - -<p>As the matrix is caught by the star wheel, it is pushed -between the two assembling elevator rail pawls and seated -on the elevator buffers. The matrix is held in place at the -bottom of the elevator by two detaining plates. When these<span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</span> -parts are in perfect condition, the matrix will set straight -in the elevator.</p> - -<p>The back buffer is made of steel, and sets flush with the -edge of the back rail of the elevator. The front buffer receives -most of the impact of the matrices and there is not -much wear to the back one, unless the front buffer is badly -worn. The back buffer may be renewed if necessary.</p> - -<p>The front buffer is a removable fiber plate set in the -bottom and flush with the edge of the rail. The purpose of -this buffer is to prevent wear on the bottom lug of the matrix. -When the plate is worn, it can be replaced.</p> - -<p>The matrix will have a tendency to fall back on the star -wheel if the buffer is worn. A good way to determine -whether the front buffer is worn is to run down a few -matrices in the assembler, then open the gate and observe -whether the matrices near the end fall forward slightly, -dropping below the level of the rest of the line. If the matrices -drop very much, a new buffer should be applied.</p> - -<p>The detaining plates, at the bottom of the assembling -elevator, are for the purpose of keeping the bottom of the -matrix from falling between the assembling elevator and the -assembler. These plates must be kept in good condition, and -the screws which hold them kept tight, or thin matrices will -get in between the elevator and assembler, causing trouble -in assembling the line.</p> - -<p>Assembled at the right of the assembling elevator back -rail and the gate are the two assembling elevator rail pawls. -These rail pawls are operated by springs, the tension of -which should be just strong enough to hold the matrix. -The pawls should keep the matrices from falling back on -the star wheel.</p> - -<p>Most fonts of matrices, up to and including 14-point, -have two letters or characters on the casting edge. The -characters to be cast must be presented at the proper level -in front of the mold cell. To enable the operator to utilize -either character instantly, there are assembled in the front of -the assembling elevator two thin duplex rails. These rails -are operated by small levers, which permit the operator -to assemble the matrices on the upper or lower rail, or mix -the line, part upper and part lower. Rails are carried<span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</span> -throughout the entire delivery mechanism to hold the matrices -at the proper level until after the cast is made.</p> - -<p>The rails are assembled on the levers and are held to -position by a bar which is fastened to the elevator. A liner -on each end, under the bar, gives room for the rails to move -without binding. Under the rails are small spiral springs -which force the rails up against the bar to keep them from -moving too freely when a line is being assembled.</p> - -<p>The long rail has a projection out from the base that -holds the line of matrices as it transfers from the elevator -to the delivery channel. This projection must fit into a groove -in the elevator. If this point becomes bent it will not permit -the rail to fit, causing bad assembling when in the regular -position. There is a small operating finger screwed to the -long rail that comes in contact with the aligning piece fastened -to the delivery channel front rail. This is for the -purpose of aligning the upper rails on the assembling elevator -with the upper delivery channel rails when the line is -in the auxiliary position. If the operating finger does not -come in contact with the aligning piece and raise it, matrices -in auxiliary, or raised position, will not pass into the -delivery channel.</p> - -<p>To operate the duplex rails, determine in which position -the matrices should be assembled, and press in or pull out -on the small levers, as desired. The right-hand lever controls -the first half-inch of the duplex rail, throwing it in or out. If -the rail is in, the matrices are all assembled on the raised or -auxiliary position. If the rail is out, the matrices are all -assembled on the bottom or regular position.</p> - -<p>The left-hand or the long rail fills out the balance of -space in the elevator. It is also connected with a small lever, -and operates the same as the short rail. The rails can be -moved in or out as needed for a line in the regular or auxiliary -position, or for a line partly in the regular and partly -in the auxiliary position.</p> - -<p>On the back of the assembling elevator at the right, resting -on an adjusting screw, is the line delivery slide releasing -wire pin. This pin should release the line delivery slide just -as the assembling latch catches when the elevator is raised.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</span></p> - -<p>The releasing pin raises the releasing plunger, which in -turn raises the delivery pawl, releasing the slide. This -carries the assembled line through the delivery channel. -The pin should not release the slide until the latch, which is -found on the back of the assembling elevator, catches on -the stop bar. The latch, which is held in place by a shoulder -screw and operated by a spring, holds the elevator in raised -position until the slide has carried the assembled line into -the delivery channel. The latch is then released by the slide -as it passes to the left, allowing the elevator to drop of its -own weight to the position to receive another line.</p> - -<p>If the pin is adjusted so that it will release the pawl -before the latch catches, the delivery slide will start to -carry the line towards the delivery channel before the latch -can hold and part of the line will fall out, because the -elevator drops as soon as released. If the pin is adjusted so -it will not release the pawl, the delivery slide will not start.</p> - -<p>The pin should be adjusted so it will release the delivery -pawl at the same time the latch catches on the stop bar. -This adjustment is made by raising the elevator to its highest -position and with a narrow screw-driver, adjust to the -proper height by turning the adjusting screw on which the -pins rest.</p> - -<p>There is a counterbalance spring attached to the assembling -elevator, underneath the keyboard frame.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">To Take Off Assembling Elevator</span></h3> - -<p>Remove the two screws which hold the delivery channel; -pull it off the dowel pins. Release the assembling elevator -lever, take out the four screws which hold the left-hand -gib, pull the gib off the dowel pins, and remove the elevator. On -the machine that has the universal ejector, care must be -used not to bend the indicator rod when removing the -delivery channel.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="ASSEMBLER">ASSEMBLER</h2> -</div> - - -<p>As the matrices descend into the assembling elevator -they pass between the chute spring and the assembler chute -rails. The chute spring is bent and adjusted to break the fall -of the matrix and tend to throw the bottom of the matrix<span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</span> -towards the star wheel. The points of the chute spring -should be slightly inclined so they will not interfere with the -top of the matrix striking beneath the points of the spring, -retarding the matrix long enough for the spaceband to -transpose. There must be room enough between these points -for the spaceband to pass through without binding as it -drops from the spaceband chute into the assembling elevator.</p> - -<p>The chute spring must be adjusted so it will allow the -heaviest matrix in the font, such as the cap “W,” to slip -through between it and the rails of the assembler without -hesitating. This adjustment is approximate; it is sometimes -necessary to change it. Adjust by bending above the banking -piece with duck bill pliers. The spring should also be -flexible and as low as permitted by the banking piece which -is riveted on the side, and resting on the assembler plate. -Be careful not to change the shape of the lower part of the -spring.</p> - -<p>The later style chute spring is a great improvement over -the old style. The length of the spring from the pivoting -point to the toe assures smoothness in assembling, and -can be instantly adjusted for thin or thick matrices.</p> - -<p>On this style chute spring the adjustment is made by -turning a conical thumbscrew which raises or lowers the -spring.</p> - -<p>The matrix catch spring is fastened to the rear of the -assembler plate and projects through a slot in the plate -<span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>32</sub></span> of an inch. The purpose of this spring is to retard the -matrix a trifle before it passes onto the star wheel. The -catch spring should be adjusted so it does not project -more than <span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>32</sub></span> of an inch from the plate. It must also be -in the center of the slot. If it projects more than the distance -mentioned it may cause transpositions.</p> - -<p>The star wheel is driven by a friction disk and pinion. -The pinion slips over a small circular brass disk that is -screwed onto the star wheel shaft. To hold the pinion on -and to cause the friction to drive the disk, there is a spring -which is held against the pinion by a nut that screws on the -shaft. The spring must be just strong enough to force the -assembler slide over when assembling a line, but to allow -the star wheel to stop if anything binds it.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</span></p> - -<p>If the brass disk wears or becomes oily, or the friction -spring becomes weak, a slight resistance to the star wheel -will stop it and the matrices will clog in the assembler. If -the friction is too strong, the star wheel will not stop when -too many matrices are dropped into the assembler. This -will cause damage to the matrices or the machine.</p> - -<p>If these parts need renewing or cleaning, it will be -necessary to remove the assembler plate from the machine. -This can be accomplished by removing the two screws in -the assembler plate, removing the chute spring, if the new -style, releasing the matrix delivery belt from the pulley at -the top, slipping the assembler driving belt off the pulley, -and lifting the plate off the dowel pins.</p> - -<p>By unscrewing the stud nut, the spring and the pinion -can be lifted off and the disk unscrewed and cleaned or -renewed.</p> - -<p>The star wheel should force the matrices inside the -retaining pawls in the assembling elevator. When it becomes -worn to the extent that it will not force the matrices inside -the retaining pawls, it should be replaced with a new one.</p> - -<p>When renewing a star wheel it is only necessary to remove -the small assembler cover, raise the assembling elevator, -remove the screw which holds the two chute plates and -rails on the dowel pins, and remove the chute plates. The -old star can be withdrawn and a new one fitted.</p> - -<p>Use a square file to dress out the hole on the new star, -but do not have it fitted too loosely. Use care that the star -does not bind anywhere.</p> - -<p>The assembler chute rails, front and back, are soldered -to the plates, and should be kept tightly fastened at all -times. They should be close to, but not dig into, the delivery -belt.</p> - -<p>The small assembler cover must be adjusted so the matrices -do not strike the upper edge while passing to the -assembler, as this batters the lugs and will cause them to -stick in the channels. It should also be adjusted so the lower -left-hand side sets close to the assembling elevator, to -prevent matrices or spacebands from getting between the -cover and the assembling elevator.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="ASSEMBLER_SLIDE">ASSEMBLER SLIDE</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The assembler slide guides the matrices as they are -forced into the assembling elevator by the star wheel. This -slide is prevented from vibrating by the assembler slide -brake.</p> - -<p>On the right end of the slide is the gauge and clamp for -setting it to the required measure. The gauge is marked in -ems and half-ems. By merely changing the clamp the slide -can be adjusted to any measure desired.</p> - -<p>On top of the clamp is an adjusting screw for the purpose -of keeping the slide properly adjusted. The proper -measurement of the slide is determined by inserting a gauge -or slug of any known length between the assembler slide -finger and the star wheel. The star wheel, being of fiber -composition, wears down, which in time will allow enough -matrices to be assembled in the assembler to cause a tight -line in the vise jaws. By using the adjusting screw the slide -can be kept at proper adjustment. The screw should be -turned towards the assembler slide bracket pawl until the -gauge stops the star wheel. This is a very important adjustment, -as tight lines should not be tolerated on any -machine. Tight lines not only ruin the matrices, but they -often cause much damage to the machine. They also cause -much distributor and escapement trouble on account of the -damage done to the matrices.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="ASSEMBLER_SLIDE_BRAKE">ASSEMBLER SLIDE BRAKE</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The assembler slide brake is at the right of the assembler, -held to the face plate by a screw, and operated by the -assembler slide brake operating lever, spring, and a trip. -The purpose of the brake is to prevent the slide from having -an unsteady movement when the line is being assembled, so -that the last matrix in the elevator will be upright against -the star wheel. The brake should hold the assembler slide -from returning to normal until released by the operating -lever. When the assembling elevator is in normal position it -is resting on the top of the assembler slide brake operating -lever near the left end, which raises the right, putting the -brake in action.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</span></p> - -<p>When the assembling elevator is being raised, the lug -on the lower right side raises the left end of the operating -lever, lowering the right against the adjusting screw in the -brake trip which releases the brake, and allows the slide to -return to its normal position.</p> - -<p>When it is necessary to adjust the brake it can be adjusted -with the screw in the inner end of the operating -lever on the older models, and with the screw in the brake -trip on the newer, by raising the assembling elevator slowly -with the left hand and adjusting with the right so the -slide will return just before the line delivery slide is released. -There should be about <span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>64</sub></span> of an inch between the end -of the screw on the operating lever, or the trip, and the -brake lever when this adjustment is properly made.</p> - -<p>There are facing blocks at the point of friction on the -assembler slide brake. When these blocks become worn, -they may be reversed, bringing another corner to the point -of friction.</p> - -<p>The left end of the operating lever, when raised, should -remain so until the assembling elevator has returned to its -proper position. If it does not, when using a long line the -instant the elevator starts to descend, the right end of the -operating lever raising would allow the brake to go into -action, and cause the assembler slide to stop before it has -returned to its proper position.</p> - -<p>On the back of the operating lever is a friction spring -which should overcome the tension of the brake spring, -so as to have the left end of the operating lever remain in -raised position until returned by the assembling elevator as -it returns to normal.</p> - -<p>The assembler slide is returned to normal by a long coil -spring, as soon as the brake is released. Do not change the -tension of this spring if the slide fails to return. The cause -of the trouble usually will be found elsewhere.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="MATRIX_CARRIER_BELT">MATRIX CARRIER BELT</h2> -</div> - - -<p>This belt moves the matrices to the assembling elevator -and must be kept fairly tight. It is adjusted by loosening -the nut and stud which hold the upper pulley and which fit -into a slotted hole; then move the pulley to the desired position<span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</span> -and tighten the nut. If the belt is still loose when the -stud is against the outer end of the slot a new belt should be -applied. Procure a new belt from the machine manufacturer -and be sure to specify the model and the number of the -machine, because the belts are of different lengths for the -various models.</p> - -<p>There are always particles of dirt and grease that form -a gum which adheres to the pulleys and slideways along -which the belt moves. These parts should be kept clean and -free of this gum.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CAUSES_OF_BAD_ASSEMBLING">CAUSES OF BAD ASSEMBLING</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The main sources of trouble of the assembling are transpositions -and matrices jumping out of the assembler. The -causes of these troubles are numerous. In the assembling -elevator it may be caused by worn buffer strips, detaining -pawls not working properly, or worn detaining plates. On the -assembler plate trouble may be caused by a worn star wheel, -dirty star wheel friction, chute spring out of adjustment, -matrix catch spring out of adjustment, chute rails loose -from the plates; assembler slide brake out of adjustment, -permitting the slide to vibrate; brake catching too soon, not -allowing the slide to return all the way back; loose screw in -assembler slide operating brake, causing the slide to bind; or -assembler slide worn or dirty, which will not allow the brake -to operate properly.</p> - -<p>These are some of the principal causes of trouble, but -due to wear or the care the machine has had, there may -be numerous other causes.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="THE_SPACEBANDS">THE SPACEBANDS</h2> -</div> - - -<p>Spacing and justification are accomplished on the linotype -by means of the spacebands, which are held in the -spaceband box above the assembling elevator, into which -they drop when the spacebar is touched.</p> - -<p>Spacebands are made in two pieces, a long wedge and a -sleeve, put together in such a manner that they slide freely -the one upon the other, but with the outer surfaces always -remaining parallel. The spaceband is thicker at the bottom<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</span> -than at the top, forming a wedge which is automatically -driven upward between the matrices, thus increasing the -space between the words, spreading the line to fill the -measure, and holding it air-tight during the cast.</p> - -<p>The sleeve of the spaceband should be turned to the right. -Because the casting edge of the spacebands is made thicker -than the opposite edge, spacebands must not be reversed in -a line, nor two put together; neither should a spaceband be -put on the end of a line.</p> - -<p>After the cast the matrices and spacebands are carried -to the transfer point where the matrices are transferred -from the first elevator to the bar of the second elevator, -while the spacebands, not having combination teeth like the -matrices, are left in the channel and are returned to the -spaceband box by the spaceband pawl.</p> - -<p>The deep cut in the bottom of the spaceband straddles the -spaceband buffer finger which guides it in its travel through -the assembling elevator and lessens the possibility of turning -or twisting. The small pin at the bottom of the spaceband -prevents it from falling apart.</p> - -<p>The bottom of the spaceband is beveled so that it will -strike the matrix a glancing, but harmless, blow as it enters -the line.</p> - -<p>Spacebands which are generally accepted as regular are -termed “thick” by the factory. They are also made in other -sizes known as “thin,” used with very small faces of type; -and “extra thick,” for the larger faces or where very wide -spacing is desired.</p> - -<p>Watch matrices and spacebands carefully, and immediately -remove any damaged, bent, or imperfect ones. A damaged -matrix or spaceband will damage others, and the whole -font may go to ruin within a short time unless the proper -attention is given.</p> - -<p>Once in each eight hours of operation, the spacebands -must be taken from the machine and polished with graphite -on a soft pine board. Lay the spaceband flat on its face and -rub it briskly backward and forward the long way of the -band. Do not rub in a circling movement, as it tends to -round the edges. Metal will then cast between the spaceband -and the matrix and show in print. The purpose of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</span> -cleaning is to remove the discoloration or metal adhering at -the casting point, and to lubricate the sliding parts. If metal -is allowed to accumulate on the spacebands, it will crush -the side walls of the matrices when locked up. Use dry -graphite in polishing the spacebands. Never handle them -with dirty or greasy hands, as the dirt and grease will be -transferred to the matrices. If the metal does not rub off, -scrape it with a piece of brass rule.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="SPACEBAND_BOX">SPACEBAND BOX</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The spaceband box is fastened to the face plate by means -of a screw and dowel pins.</p> - -<p>The spacebands slide down through the box, suspended -by their lugs, on two inclined rails. The lower spaceband -rests against a raised projection or hook on the inclined rail. -The bottom end of the spaceband rests against the chute -plate. Escapement of the spaceband is effected by two pawls -which lift the spacebands over the rails, allowing them to -drop into the assembling elevator.</p> - -<p>The pawls are located in the right-hand side of the spaceband -box, front and back. These pawls are connected to -the pawl levers by the spaceband pawl lifting screws, and -held in place by the rails and pawl springs. When the pawls -are at their lowest position, they are forced under the ears -of the spaceband by the pawl springs.</p> - -<p>The pawls get their motion in the following manner: -When the spaceband key is touched the cam is released and -turns the same as the regular keyboard cams. This raises -the spaceband keyrod against the tension of the spring at -the bottom of the keyrod. The keyrod raises the right-hand -end of the spaceband keylever. This lowers the left-hand end -of the keylever, on which the box lever rests. This permits -the pawls and levers to drop of their own weight. When the -keyrod cam returns to normal, the spring on the keyrod -pulls the keyrod and the keylever to normal, thus raising the -pawls and levers by spring action.</p> - -<p>The movement of the pawls is controlled by the screw in -the back pawl lever which rests on the spaceband keylever. -When the pawls are at their lowest position, the bottom<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</span> -of the slot in the adjusting screw is resting on the keylever. -They must go <span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>32</sub></span> an inch below the inclined rails on their -full down stroke. To make this adjustment, disconnect the -keyboard belt from the pulley, touch the spaceband key, -turn the rollers by hand until the pawl levers are in their -lowest position, disconnect the keylever from the adjusting -screw and turn the screw.</p> - -<p>The chute plate, against which the lower right side of the -spaceband rests while suspended in the spaceband box, must -be low enough so that when raised by the pawls, the bottom -of the spaceband will be released before the top; if not, -they will catch and hang in the box. Whenever it is necessary -to make this adjustment it can be accomplished by -bending the chute plate a trifle.</p> - -<p>When the first spaceband is being raised by the pawls, -the weight of the other being against it would cause the next -one to raise by friction unless it were prevented. This is -prevented by the center bar which is fastened to a bracket -at the top of the box. The distance from the vertical stop -on the box rails to the pins on the center bar should be just -enough for one spaceband to raise, the pins holding the -second band from raising. By loosening the screw in the -bracket and moving the bar, adjust so that the distance -from the vertical stop on the rails to the pins is just enough -to permit one spaceband to raise, the pins holding the -second one. As there are three kinds of spacebands in use—thin, -thick, and extra thick—the above adjustment can only -be made so as to use one thickness at a time.</p> - -<p>The two chute rails at the bottom of the chute guide the -spacebands into the assembling elevator. The spacebands -will have a tendency to catch on the assembling elevator -rails, and not settle down in the assembler, if the rails are -worn. There should be just room enough between the rails -for a spaceband to slide without binding.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="TO_REMOVE_SPACEBAND_BOX">TO REMOVE SPACEBAND BOX</h2> -</div> - - -<p>Push in controlling lever. Take hold of cam No. 1 and -back the cams until the second elevator descends to its safety -latch. Hold the spaceband transfer lever with the right hand<span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</span> -and press downward with left hand on the releasing lever -in the first elevator top guide. Allow the spaceband transfer -lever to move over into the intermediate channel. Push the -spacebands back into the channel. Remove the screw on the -right-hand side of the electric light bracket and move the -bracket to clear the box. Remove the large screw in the -center of the box and lift the box off the dowel pins.</p> - -<p>In replacing the spaceband box, be careful not to spring -the lower end of the spaceband chute. Also be careful not -to bend the ends of the inclined rails.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="SPACEBAND_TROUBLES">SPACEBAND TROUBLES</h2> -</div> - - -<p>Transposition troubles of the spacebands may be caused -by any of the following: Worn keyboard cam roll, keyboard -cam sluggish, loose keyboard driving belt, keyrod spring -weak, tongue at the bottom of spaceband chute bent too far, -worn star wheel, pawl levers loose on the shaft, caused by -taper pins not being tight; dirty spaceband box pawls, pawl -levers not adjusted properly, worn pawls and rails, chute -spring out of adjustment, chute rails worn; also on the cam -frames with the spring bar, a weak keyboard cam yoke -spring.</p> - -<p>Some of the causes for the spacebands not dropping are: -Worn rails or pawls, lifting screw holes in pawls worn, bent -spacebands, bent ears on spacebands, center bar out of -adjustment, keyrod spring weak or off, dirty spaceband box -pawls, weak pawl springs, worn rubber roll, free end of -keyboard cam yoke gummy, pawl lever loose. On the cam -frames with the spring bar, the cam yoke spring too tight; -bent hinge rod on cam yoke or trigger dirty, or anything -else that would prevent the free movement of the pawls.</p> - -<p>Spacebands travel through the machine suspended by -their lugs. Constant use causes the under side of the lug to -wear, and when spacebands with badly worn lugs are mixed -together with new spacebands, difficulty frequently arises -and they occasionally clog in the chute when released by -touching the spacebar. The only remedy is to send the -offending spaceband to the factory to be repaired.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Spaceband Box Pawls and Rails</span></h3> - -<p>If the trouble is due to worn or dirty pawls, they can be -taken out in the following manner: Remove the spaceband -box from the machine, release the tension of the pawl -springs by unscrewing the small screw that holds the spring, -then take out the pawl screw and lift the pawl out of the -box. If the pawls are to be replaced by new ones, select -two that are the same height. Test the pawls for height by -placing a small wooden plug in the pivot hole of the two -pawls. The points should be the same distance from the -pivot holes. If the old pawls are to be used, mark one pawl, -so that they will not get mixed; for after they have been -used, they should be kept in their regular place. Measure -the pawls for height and also examine them to see if the -points are worn. If uneven and the points dull, they can be -rubbed down on an oil stone to get them even. After they -are the same height, sharpen them on an oil stone, being -careful to maintain the same bevel.</p> - -<p>To work well, the pawls must be even as to height and -at the points. If the pawls are rusty or gummy they can be -cleaned by rubbing them on crocus cloth and polishing with -graphite.</p> - -<p>If the spaceband box rails are to be replaced with new -ones, the box must be taken apart. Remove the box from -the machine. Remove the chute plate. Drive out the taper -pin which holds the pawl levers to the lever shaft, and take -off the levers. Take out the pawls, unscrew the two large -screws, and pry the two castings apart. Take off the center -bar plate by removing the two round head screws. Remove -the old rails. Put on the new ones by fitting them on the -dowel pins, using care to have the vertical face of the rails -even. It is always best to renew the pawls at the same time -new rails are put on.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">To Replace Spaceband Box Pawls</span></h3> - -<p>To replace the spaceband box pawls, loosen the screw -which holds the pawl spring to the pawl lever, unscrew the -lifting pawl screw, place pawl in the box, screw up on the -lifting screw, being careful to guide the screw into the hole -on the pawl. Place the spring in the pawl slot before the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</span> -pawl lift screw is drawn tight. Tighten the spring screw, -which holds the spring against the pawl, until the screw is -tight.</p> - -<p>The pawl should rest against the back of the pawl guide -firmly. Try the pawl to see if the spring has the proper -tension and that the pawl is not bent so it does not work -freely.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="LINE_DELIVERY_SLIDE">LINE DELIVERY SLIDE</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The delivery slide consists of two slides which move in -a slideway, a long finger, short finger, delivery slide rod, and -adjusting clamp. The slide is connected by a lever link, -lever, shaft, and split cam lever, to a roller which operates -against the surface of cam No. 10.</p> - -<p>The slide gets its action, when delivering a line, from a -strong coil spring in the column of the machine which is -connected to a lug on the shaft. The slide is returned to -normal by cam action, the roller being held against and -following the surface of cam No. 10.</p> - -<p>When the line delivery slide is in normal position, it is -prevented from sliding into the first elevator jaws by the -delivery pawl, which is under the spaceband box, held -to the face by a screw, and operated by a spring.</p> - -<p>This pawl has a notch on the lower side, which acts as -a safety to prevent the slide being pulled to the left, in case -it is not returned quite far enough for the end of the pawl -to pass the catch.</p> - -<p>When the slide has returned to normal position, the -short finger should go not more than <span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>16</sub></span> of an inch beyond -the end of the pawl. If the finger returns more than this -distance, the short finger will be forced against the spaceband -box chute and cause it to spring, and very likely -cause delay in dropping of the spacebands.</p> - -<p>The return adjustment is made by moving the split -cam lever in or out. First remove the spaceband box so as -to have a clear view of the pawl and finger. Then turn the -main cams by hand until just before the high part of cam -No. 10 is opposite the split cam lever roller. Place the -short finger back of the delivery pawl, in normal position. -Hold the lever and roller against the cam and tighten the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</span> -screws in the split cam lever. This should cause the short -finger on the slide to be returned not more than <span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>16</sub></span> of an -inch beyond the pawl.</p> - -<p>This adjustment is approximate, however, due to wear -on the connecting parts of the slide on machines which -have been in use for some time. The adjustment is made -on the older model machines, which do not have the split -cam lever, by the eccentric pin on the slide lever.</p> - -<p>Near the right end of the first elevator jaws are two -spring pawls which prevent the matrices from falling out -while the line is going to casting position. The short finger -should stop <span class="xs"><sup>13</sup>/<sub>32</sub></span> of an inch inside of the first elevator. The -last matrix on the right-hand end of the line will then be -inside the two pawls. This adjustment is made by the screw -in the slideway on the left end of the face plate, against -which the slide comes to a stop.</p> - -<p>When the slide stops against the adjusting screw in -the slideway, the casting mechanism will be set in action. -It is started by the roller on the split cam lever, which -comes in contact with the automatic stopping pawl on cam -No. 10, forcing it from the upper stopping lever, and the -machine goes into action. It should not start before the -line delivery slide has come to a stop against the adjusting -screw on the face plate. If it did, the last matrix in the -line would not be inside the spring pawls in the first elevator. -The plate, which is held to the automatic stopping -pawl by a screw on the lower end, is adjustable. Loosening -the lower and turning the upper screw to the left will move -the plate closer to the split lever or roller and the machine -will be set in action sooner; moving the screw to the right, -the reverse. This plate should be adjusted so as to knock the -automatic stop pawl off upper stopping lever not less than -<span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>64</sub></span> of an inch.</p> - -<p>The short finger is at the right of the slide and acts as -a support for the right end of the matrix line while it is -being transferred to the first elevator jaws. There is a -small extension at the top of the short finger which engages -the delivery pawl and holds the slide in normal position -until the assembling elevator is raised to send in a line. -The short finger is not adjustable.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</span></p> - -<p>The long finger is fastened to the left of the slide. It is -the support for the left end of the matrix line while it is -being transferred to the vise jaws. The long finger is adjusted -by means of the clamp. It is necessary to readjust -this finger when the measure is changed. The long finger -must be kept straight so it hangs vertically on the machine. -If bent either forward or backward it will wear the assembling -elevator. If the bottom is bent to the right, it may -interfere with the assembler slide, or the last matrix in the -line may not get inside the first elevator jaw pawls, thereby -binding the matrix. If bent to the left it will bind full -lines of matrices as they are being raised by the assembling -elevator and cause the slide to travel slowly.</p> - -<p>The air chamber, which regulates the speed at which -the slide travels, is fastened to the rear of the column and -is connected to the split cam lever by means of a link. This -link is also connected to the delivery air cushion piston, -which operates in the air cylinder. As the slide moves over -to the left this piston is forced upward into the cylinder. -The speed is regulated by an air vent and cover at the top -of the cylinder. Opening up the vent allows the air to -escape quicker which in turn allows the slide to move to the -left faster. The slide should not go over with too much -force or it will have a tendency to loosen the screws in the -delivery slide.</p> - -<p>The lever link, which is the connection between the delivery -slide and delivery lever, has a stud which fastens in -a depression in the delivery lever and is held by a small -plate and two screws. The other end of the lever has a -notch that fits over a shoulder screw at the left of the rear -side of the delivery slide. The link is held on this screw by -means of a long, flat spring. The spring holds the link on -the screw except when there is an undue strain on the -delivery slide caused by something interfering with the -free return of the slide. When the strain becomes too great, -the spring permits the link to slip off the shoulder screw, -disconnecting the slide from the lever to prevent breakage. -To connect the link it is only necessary to relieve the strain -on the delivery slide and push the link and the shoulder -screw together.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</span></p> - -<p>The slideway should be well lubricated at all times to -prevent undue wear on the sliding parts. Dry graphite -will give more uniform action than oil on the slideway. -If oil has been used on the slideway, it should be thoroughly -cleaned before using graphite.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="METAL_POT">METAL POT</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The metal pot consists of the pot jacket and pot crucible. -The jacket is the outside casting. The crucible fits -into the jacket, allowing space between the crucible and -jacket for asbestos packing. The crucible is held in place -in the jacket by three lugs, which keep it stationary in the -jacket. All the space between the crucible and jacket is -packed tightly with powdered asbestos which has been -mixed with a little water until a paste is formed. This insulation -is for the purpose of holding the heat in the crucible.</p> - -<p>It is very important that every pot should be well insulated -or packed. If there is poor packing the crucible can -not hold the heat. The result being poor slugs, and the consequent -use of more gas than is necessary. If the machine -takes an excessive gas flame to keep the metal in working -condition, look for poor insulation.</p> - -<p>The well of the pot, which contains the metal before it -is forced through the mouthpiece by the plunger, must have -sufficient metal under the plunger to form a perfect slug -when a cast is made. For that reason two holes are drilled -in the well, one on each side, which allows the metal to enter -the well. If the holes become closed, which they sometimes -do if the well is not cleaned regularly, the slug will be hollow. -They should be kept open, using the end of the mouthpiece -wiper, which is bent at a right angle and pointed. The -metal pot has a capacity of 38 pounds of metal.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Metal Pot Plunger</span></h3> - -<p>The metal is forced by the plunger from the well, -through the throat of the crucible, into the mold cell, and -up against the line of matrices aligned in front of the mold.</p> - -<p>When the machine is in normal position, the plunger -should be high enough in the well to permit the metal to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</span> -run into the well through the holes in the sides. If the -plunger does not set above the holes, the metal can not -flow into the well and throat, so when the line is cast the slug -will appear porous or spongy and of light weight.</p> - -<p>If a plunger is worn, it will permit the metal to escape -around the sides of the plunger when the cast is made, giving -a poor slug. To remedy this trouble it is sometimes -necessary to put in a new plunger a trifle oversize (.005), -and fit it to the well.</p> - -<p>A dirty plunger may bind and cause a splash of metal -to be ejected before the pot locks up tight and, chilling on -the back of the mold, prevent a lockup, so the metal will -flow out over the back of the disk when the plunger acts. -A dirty plunger will often cause a slug to have the appearance -of cold metal. Keep the plunger and the well of the -pot clean.</p> - -<p>Any kind of a wire brush may be used to clean a plunger, -but the Ewald cleaning box is recommended, because it keeps -all the dust confined in the box. There are several kinds of -brushes and scrapers manufactured for use in cleaning the -well. Use whatever method desired, but be sure it keeps the -well clean.</p> - -<p>If using a rotary well brush to clean the walls of the -well, be sure to turn it always to the right, otherwise the -bristles may break off and stay in the well.</p> - -<p>If a plunger should stick in the well very tightly, raise -the temperature a little, apply a wrench to the plunger rod -and twist it carefully. Do not use too much force or the -rod may be broken. If a plunger sticks so that it can not -be removed by the above method, dip enough metal out of -the crucible to expose the well; squirt some oil between the -plunger and the inside wall of the well, or drop a piece of -tallow in the well; let it stand for a few minutes, after which -the plunger can usually be loosened with the wrench as described. -Do not pry up on the plunger for there is danger -of breaking the rod.</p> - -<p>When the plunger forces the metal through the throat -of the crucible, there will be nothing to retard the flow of -metal against the face of the matrices if the throat of the -crucible is clean. However, if the throat should be stopped<span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</span> -up with dross or dirt, retarding the flow of metal, the face -of the slug would be glassy, and have the appearance of cold -metal.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Cleaning the Throat of Crucible</span></h3> - -<p>To eliminate a stoppage in the throat it is sometimes -necessary to remove the mouthpiece and scrape out the -throat, using a throat scraper to cut away the accumulation -of dirt and dross.</p> - -<p>The scraper sold by the Linotype Company is recommended -for the purpose. Care must be used to get the -throat clean. Hold a receptacle that does not leak up in -front of the crucible mouth and force the plunger down by -hand. This will flush the throat of any floating particles of -dross.</p> - -<p>Sometimes melted tallow, paraffin oil, or machine oil -will open up the throat, by being used in the following -manner: Dip the metal out of the pot to about an inch -below the top of the well, remove the plunger, pour the -melted tallow, paraffin oil, or machine oil into the well and -replace the plunger. Cast a few blank slugs. After casting -about six or seven slugs, fill the metal pot full of metal, -recast blank slugs until you have filled the stick. The effect -of the tallow or oil is to break up the dross and dirt into -such fine particles, that whatever has accumulated in the -throat will be forced out through the holes in the mouthpiece. -This will cause considerable smoke in the room unless -you have a ventilating system. Be sure to clean your -vise jaws and mold after you have finished, for they will -be covered with oil. It is not necessary to remove the mouthpiece -for this operation so consequently considerable time -can be saved. But if the throat is very dirty, this method -will not work satisfactorily.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Cracked Crucible</span></h3> - -<p>Crucibles are sometimes cracked from too much heat -when the gas is first lighted. When the gas is turned on full -at first, the metal in the bottom of the pot is melted before -the metal in the upper part gets very hot. This metal in the -bottom expands and powerful pressure is exerted on the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</span> -walls of the well and lower part of the crucible. To eliminate -this danger the gas should be turned on about half -force for about twenty minutes, or until the metal becomes -warm and expanded, after which the gas may be turned on -full force.</p> - -<p>Ordinarily it takes about one hour and a half to melt -the metal and have it ready for use. The small cracks which -are made in the bottom of the crucible when first heating -the pot will usually be closed by the heat of the burner -after the pressure is released.</p> - -<p>To remove an old crucible: Dip out as much metal as -possible, turn out the fire, remove the four pot jacket -cover screws, take off the cover, dig out part of the old -asbestos, release the screw that clamps the left-hand crucible -lug to the jacket, lift out the crucible, clean all of -the old asbestos out of the inside of the jacket.</p> - -<p>To put in a new crucible: The pot jacket should be lined -with the asbestos about an inch thick on the inside, except -in the front part where the burners are located. Place the -crucible in position. Care should be taken to see that it -fits firmly in its proper position. Pack the asbestos around -the crucible, tamping it down with a stick, and filling in -all the spaces. Cover the well of the crucible with a rag -while packing, so that none of the asbestos will get into the -well. On completion of the packing, place the pot jacket -cover in position, and fasten it down firmly with the four -pot jacket screws, which extend down through the cover, -into the pot jacket.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Mouthpieces</span></h3> - -<p>One of the most important parts of the pot crucible, is -the mouthpiece. The mouthpiece on all standard machines -contains thirty holes (size 51), one hole for each pica of the -slug, through which the metal flows into the mold cell to -form a slug.</p> - -<p>At the present time there are two styles of mouthpieces -in general use: The wedge mouthpiece which has a gib or -wedge to fasten it in the slot of the crucible to make a tight -fit; and the screw mouthpiece which fastens on to the crucible -by means of screws.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</span></p> - -<p>On all mouthpieces small cross vents are cut downward -between each of the holes. There is also a vent which is -cut from the first hole on the right-hand end of the mouthpiece. -The cross vents allow the air to escape from the mold -cell as the metal is forced in. These vents play a very important -part in the casting of good slugs. If the vents are -stopped up with dross or cold metal, the air can not escape -from the mold cell. This causes a slug with air bubbles, -making a light-weight slug. These air bubbles, when near -the face of the type, allow the letters to be crushed in when -put under pressure on the press. Also, the entire slug may -be forced down, causing much delay in printing.</p> - -<p>Care must be taken in cutting the vents in a mouthpiece -so they do not extend very far above the top of the holes -in the mouthpiece and that they are not too deep. They -should be deep in the center and come to a very fine edge -at the ends. All that is needed is to get the air out of -the mold quickly. Ordinarily this can be accomplished by -cleaning the vents with a sharp pointed scraper but be careful -not to mar the mouthpiece. When the vents are opened -properly there should be a sprue of metal below the vents -on the back of the mold about ½ to ¾ of an inch long after -the slug is cast.</p> - -<p>A vent that is cut too deep will have too much sprue, -causing an unnecessary amount of shavings on the floor -and about the machine, and sometimes causing machine -troubles.</p> - -<p>It should seldom be necessary to drill out the holes in -a mouthpiece. If the metal is properly cared for in remelting, -and the mouthpiece is kept at the proper temperature, -the metal will usually flow freely through the holes. -However, if it is found necessary to drill out the holes, -never use larger than a <span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>16</sub></span> inch or No. 51 drill, which will -not make the holes larger than their original size. When -using the drill, it should be immersed in oil after each -hole is drilled, to prevent the drill from becoming too hot -and breaking off in the hole. Enlarging the mouthpiece -holes will work satisfactorily on large faces 8-point or above; -but when the smaller faces are used the product will not -have a clear-cut face.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">To Remove a Mouthpiece</span></h3> - -<p>When it is necessary to remove a mouthpiece for cleaning -out the throat of the crucible, mark a line on the face -of the crucible to align with the first hole on the right end -of the mouthpiece. When replacing the mouthpiece the line -will be your guide. By so adjusting there will be a full -hole on each end of the slug when casting the different -lengths, with the exception of half-pica measures. A hole -on the adjustable or left end being partly covered by the -liner in the mold would cause no trouble. If part of the -first hole should be covered by the constant liner, the first -letter on the right end of the slug would be blurred, or would -not cast sharply, because the metal cools quickly on the -ends of the mold, and a full, free flow is necessary.</p> - -<p>The mouthpiece should always be removed when the -metal is hot. If removed when cold there would be danger -of breaking the pot crucible.</p> - -<p>When removing the wedge style mouthpiece, place the -vise in second position, lift out the mold slide, place a block -of wood between the right side of the pot jacket and the -slideway, drive the mouthpiece toward the keyboard, using -a piece of brass as a drift. The above operation is necessary -to loosen the wedge. The instant the mouthpiece moves, the -wedge will become loose and can be lifted out.</p> - -<p>Another method of removal is to grip the left-hand end -of the gib with a pair of pliers, pulling the end of the gib -forward and wrapping it around the pliers, prying against -a piece of brass rule placed along the face of the mouthpiece. -Care must be used in this method to hold the pliers at such -an angle that the lip of the crucible will not be damaged -while removing the gib.</p> - -<p>Always have a new gib on hand before removing a -mouthpiece, for it is difficult to use an old one in replacing -a mouthpiece.</p> - -<p>In replacing an old mouthpiece, extreme care must be -taken to see that it is perfectly clean and straight. Clean -the mouthpiece thoroughly and with a straight-edge test -the mouthpiece to see that it is straight. If not, straighten it, -being careful not to damage. This need not be done with a -new mouthpiece.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</span></p> - -<p>Before placing the mouthpiece in the crucible, remove -the left-hand vise locking stud nut and pull out the stud. Be -careful not to lose the small brass washer which is on the -stud. The removal of the stud permits the sliding in of the -mouthpiece easily. The lips and the slot of the crucible, -which are the seat for the mouthpiece, must be entirely -free from all dirt and dross or the mouthpiece can not -seat properly.</p> - -<p>It is best to fit a mouthpiece to its seat by placing a -very thin coating of fine emery and oil (fine valve grinding -compound is good) on the back and top part of the mouthpiece. -This method cleans the seat of all the accumulated -dross and dirt. Place the mouthpiece in position in the pot -so the top of mouthpiece is against the top seat and move -back and forth, bearing lightly against the mouthpiece, -until the high spots are ground down, so as to have the seat -straight. When doing this, care must be taken not to get -the paste on any other part of the machine, as it might -cause trouble. The metal should be at casting temperature -while fitting a mouthpiece. To hold the mouthpiece for this -operation, procure a piece of wood furniture the same width -and length of the mouthpiece, fasten this to the mouthpiece -by driving a headless brad in each end of the wood directly -in line with the last hole on each end of the mouthpiece. -By placing the wood on the mouthpiece the brads pass -through the two holes and make a very serviceable holder.</p> - -<p>After fitting the mouthpiece, thoroughly clean all parts -of the crucible lip, slot, and mouthpiece. The least particle -of grit may cause trouble.</p> - -<p>Fit the gib by dressing it, so that it will drive far enough -to the right to make a tight fit. Cover the top and bottom -with a thin coating of red lead and oil. Place the mouthpiece -in position, the first hole in line with the mark on the crucible. -Insert the wedge in the lower side and push it in as -far as possible with a pair of pliers. Then drive in the -gib so as to secure the mouthpiece firmly. Be careful that -the mouthpiece does not move as the gib is being driven -in. Lay a brass rule against the whole length of the gib and -tap lightly with a hammer to firmly locate the gib on the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</span> -seat, and at the same time, bring the outer edge of the gib -slightly below the face of the mouthpiece.</p> - -<p>After driving the mouthpiece to its proper position see -that the ends are not burred; if so, file them off, as they -might prevent the mouthpiece from locking up properly -against the mold, and cause a back squirt.</p> - -<p>The screw mouthpiece is held to the crucible by 13 -screws. The screw holes in the mouthpiece are counter-sunk -so the heads of these screws will not extend beyond the face -of the mouthpiece.</p> - -<p>To remove the screw style mouthpiece from the crucible, -use the pot mouth screw loosener obtainable from the Linotype -Company. Fit the loosener in the groove of the screw -and tap the head with a hammer. As the screws will be -tight, due to the heat and dross, this tapping will loosen -them without damaging the screw heads. The screws can -then be removed with a screw-driver.</p> - -<p>Some features of the new mouthpiece are: There is no -danger of breaking the lips of the crucible by driving the -wedge in too far; it also eliminates the possibilities of battering -the ends of the mouthpiece, as with the wedge style; -leaking around the mouthpiece and improper setting when -taken off and replaced is less likely to occur.</p> - -<p>Due to the width of the face, one mouthpiece is sufficient -for a slug of any size. This eliminates the necessity for a -special mouthpiece for display, which was necessary with -the older models.</p> - -<p>Before replacing a screw mouthpiece be sure to thoroughly -clean the surface of the crucible and the back of -the mouthpiece of all dirt and dross. Place a thin coating of -red lead and oil on the back of the mouthpiece and place it -in position. Tighten the screws gradually, beginning at the -ends and working toward the center.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Metal Pot Adjustments</span></h3> - -<p>There are two pot leg bushings which fit over the vise -frame shaft and project up into the fork of the pot leg. -These support the metal pot and hold it in position to lock -up with the mold. The position of the pot in relation to -the mouthpiece is determined by four adjusting screws in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</span> -each pot leg and bearing against the bushings. These -screws permit the proper alignment of the mold and mouthpiece.</p> - -<p>The holes in the mouthpiece, through which the metal -passes to the mold cell, should align with the smooth or -constant side of the slug, as this side of the mold always -remains in the same position. When using the mold liners -for the different points of thickness of slugs, the position of -the mold cap changes. If the holes should align with the -rib side of a slug of large size, when changing to 6-point slug -the mold cap would cover the holes, thus shutting off the -flow of metal and causing an imperfect lockup or imperfect -slugs.</p> - -<p>The two screws at the top and bottom of each pot leg -are for the purpose of aligning the holes in the mouthpiece -with the constant side of the mold.</p> - -<p>To make this adjustment, remove the mold and take -it apart. Clean thoroughly the mold and mold pocket. -Leave the cap off and place the constant part of the mold -back in the pocket with a 30-em left-hand liner and a constant -right-hand liner in the mold. Remove the plunger pin -for safety. Turn the machine until the first elevator rests -on the vise cap. The mold should now be in front of the -mouthpiece. Raise the first elevator, holding it up with a -piece of wood, one end under the head of the slide and the -other on the upper end of the vise automatic stop rod. -Close the vise. Unlock the mold cam lever, move the mold -disk forward by hand so the locking studs can enter the -bushings. Turn the machine by hand until the mouthpiece -advances against the mold. Release the two front adjusting -screws a trifle so the pot legs can move freely while -making the adjustment. Release the lock nuts and move -the top and bottom screws until the bottom of the holes in -the mouthpiece are in line with the constant part of the -mold, and the two end holes are showing within the liners. -Tighten the lock nuts and the front adjusting screws after -finishing the adjustment.</p> - -<p>A great amount of lockup trouble is caused by the -mouthpiece on the metal pot not locking up squarely against<span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</span> -the mold, due to the front and back pot leg screws being -out of adjustment or the mouthpiece being warped.</p> - -<p>To adjust the pot legs so the mouthpiece will lock up -squarely with the mold, place the machine and the mold -(without the cap) and the 30-em liners in the same position -as when adjusting the height, but have the mold cam lever -connected to the mold slide. Leave a little space between the -mold and the mouthpiece. Place a piece of tissue paper at -each end of the mold between the mold and the mouthpiece. -Have the paper just inside the ends of the liners. Turn the -machine forward until the pump lever is ready to go down -for the cast. Be sure the plunger pin has been removed, to -prevent accidentally forcing the metal out of the pot.</p> - -<p>If the left-hand paper should be tight and the right-hand -paper loose, loosen the front pot screw at the left and -turn in on the back screw. This will move the left end of -the mouthpiece farther back. Adjust with the front and -back screws in this manner until both papers are held -tightly.</p> - -<p>After completing the adjustment, replace the cap on the -mold and turn the machine to normal position.</p> - -<p>Another method of testing the pot lockup is to let the -machine make the quarter revolution which brings the mold -in front of the mouthpiece. Disconnect the mold lever and -pull the mold slide forward. Apply a thin even coating of a -mixture of red lead and oil, or printers’ ink, to the back of -the mold. Be sure to have the mold clean. Hold out the mold -disk driving pinion, so the disk will not revolve, and let the -machine run around without casting. The mixture will -transfer from the mold to the mouthpiece. If the mouthpiece -is touching only on one end of the mold it can be -adjusted by the screws in the sides of the pot legs. Adjust -them to swing the crucible to bring about a tight fit, repeating -the above test until the transfer is registering evenly -the full length of the mouthpiece. After each test wipe off -the mouthpiece and mold, for any oil or too much red lead -or ink would give a false impression.</p> - -<p>If the mouthpiece touches at both ends and not in the -center or in the center and not on the ends, it indicates that<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</span> -the mouthpiece is warped and the above adjustments would -not be satisfactory.</p> - -<p>When the mouthpiece is warped or high, it is necessary -to take out the high spots with a fine file or an oil stone. -Take off a very little of the surface at a time and repeat -the tests with the red lead until a proper lockup is secured -all the way across the mouthpiece.</p> - -<p>After fitting up a mouthpiece in this manner, the vents -should be cut to their original depth.</p> - -<p>After making the pot adjustments, test the mold slide -adjustment to make sure that it brings the face of the mold -to within .010 of an inch from the face of the matrices. -See that the pot lever has the <span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>16</sub></span> of an inch play needed -during lockup.</p> - -<p>Be sure the washers on the pot lever shaft are so placed -that the sides of the lever do not bear on the cams.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Pot Lever</span></h3> - -<p>The pot lever is located directly back of the metal pot -and, through cam No. 8 and the pot cam roller, gives the pot -its forward and backward action. There is a cushion spring -on the pot lever eyebolt that connects the lower end of the -pot lever to the pot jacket. This spring gives the lockup of -the pot and mold and takes up all excess motion of the lever -during the lockup.</p> - -<p>There is a short piece of pipe pinned to the eyebolt inside -of the spring, which prevents having too much tension -on the spring. The nut on the front is the adjusting nut. -This nut has a washer next to the spring, to keep the -spring from being forced over the head of the nut. This -nut should be tight against the pipe. With the end of the -rear nut against the pipe on the bolt, there should be <span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>16</sub></span> -of an inch from the back of the pot lever to the head of the -nut when the machine is in casting position. This <span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>16</sub></span> of an -inch adjustment gives the correct lockup to the pot and also -prevents breaking the lever by too much pressure.</p> - -<p>The pot lever spring should be examined frequently, -as back squirts will be caused by a spring which is broken -or worn. This trouble is caused by not giving pressure<span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</span> -enough to the mouthpiece when it is being locked against -the mold for the cast.</p> - -<p>A lever spring weak, worn, or out of adjustment will -also cause an uneven height of the matrices, due to the -lack of pressure during the cast.</p> - -<p>When it is necessary to remove a pot lever spring, pull -the pot forward by hand, place a support beneath the pot -jacket to hold the pot lever roll off the cam. Remove the pot -balancing spring, take off the rear nut on the eyebolt and -push back on the lever. The spring can then be removed.</p> - -<p>The roller in the pot lever has nine anti-friction roller -bearings. These rollers should frequently be examined for -wear, and if found worn should be renewed, because a set -of worn anti-friction rollers will also cause an imperfect -lockup. When renewing these rollers, put in all nine new -ones. If a roller is worn or broken, or the bearing pin or -pot lever roller worn, there will be play between the lever -and cam, which will prevent a tight lockup.</p> - -<p>To take out the pot lever: Pull the pot forward by hand, -place a support beneath the pot jacket, remove the balancing -spring, loosen the screw in the upper shaft bearing, and pull -the shaft out. On the upper shaft bearing on each side of -the pot lever, are washers of varying thickness. These -washers are for the purpose of adjusting the pot lever sidewise -so it will not bind on the main cams. When taking out -this shaft be careful that the washers are not lost or mixed.</p> - -<p>Take out the wing pin that holds the eyebolt to the pot -jacket. Place the lever on the bench and take out roller -bearings by releasing the set screw and pulling out the roller -pin. Before replacing the bearings, in the lower roller, -coat them with vaseline or hard grease. By placing a small -piece of an old keyboard rubber roll in the hole, so the bearings -fit around it, they will be held in place until the pin is -slipped through. The pin will force the rubber out.</p> - -<p>Fastened to the back of the pot lever, at the right-hand -side, is the pot return cam shoe. As the main cams revolve, -the pot return cam, fastened to cam No. 9, comes in contact -with the shoe, pulling the pot away from the mold after the -slug has been cast.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Removing a Pot</span></h3> - -<p>To remove a pot from a machine: Remove the plunger, -dip as much metal out of the pot as possible. Lower the first -elevator to the vise cap, and let vise down to second position. -Remove the mold slide. Take off the pot leg caps. Loosen -the front adjusting screws in the pot legs. Loosen the nut -on the pot lever eyebolt, to release the spring tension. Take -out the pot lever shaft, and remove the pot lever. Take off -the mold disk shield and pump stop bracket. The pot can -then be lifted out by placing a rope through the supports on -the jacket for the pot lever shaft, so that the pot can be -raised up while it is being guided out of the machine by -taking hold of the bottom of the pot legs.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Slug Troubles</span></h3> - -<p>An imperfect face on slugs could be caused by any of the -following: Holes in the mouthpiece not inside the slug line, -holes in the mouthpiece closed, or partly so; vents in the -mouthpiece filled up, or insufficient ventage; dross in the -throat of the pot back of the mouthpiece, mold cell rough -inside, due to being damaged; mold cell dirty or oily, inferior -metal, holes from the pot to the well stopped up, -plunger not clearing the well holes, plunger or pot well -dirty, governor not working properly, temperature of the -metal not adapted to the size of slug being cast, cold metal. -Too large a hole in the mouthpiece will give a small slug an -imperfect face.</p> - -<p>When the slug is cold, the body of the slug may be solid -and have a stringy or flaky appearance, and the face may be -imperfect, some of the letters being poorly cast or blurred. -The base of the slug usually will be good.</p> - -<p>When the slug is too hot the face is good, but the body is -hollow and spongy and the slug is light. It is imperfectly -formed, due to the heat of the metal.</p> - -<p>A bright bottom on a slug shows that the mold knife -has trimmed a thin layer of metal from the bottom of the -slug, due to an imperfect lockup, the excess metal running -over the bottom of the mold. If the mouthpiece makes a -perfect contact with the mold at the moment of casting,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</span> -there will be no excess metal and the slug will show a clean -bottom.</p> - -<p>An imperfect lockup can be caused by any of the following: -Cold metal due to low gas pressure, dirty burners, gas -burning in mixer, improper packing around the mouthpiece, -or improperly packed metal pot; hot metal, too much metal -in the pot, dirty plunger or well, air vents cut too deep, -air vents cut too high above holes, dull mold knife, pot cam -lever roller or bearing pin worn, pot lever not working -freely on the lever shaft, due to gum or lack of oil; metal -on the bottom of the mold, mold knife out of adjustment, -mold disk guide out of adjustment, leaky mouthpiece, -warped mold, pot lever spring weak or broken, accumulation -of metal back of the mold disk, mold cap guides bent, -loose stay bolt, loose adjusting screws on pot legs.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="GASOLINE_BURNER">GASOLINE BURNER</h2> -</div> - - -<p>There are three methods commonly used to heat a metal -pot: Gasoline burner, gas burner, and electric heater.</p> - -<p>The gasoline burner in most cases is undesirable on -account of cost, time, and fire hazard; but through the lack -of electrical current or gas it must sometimes be used.</p> - -<p>There is a burner designed for either gasoline or kerosene -by the Linotype Company. This burner will give complete -combustion in burning either gasoline or kerosene. -It has no threaded joints and, therefore, no joints to leak. -It is equipped with a positive mouthpiece burner and control. -This burner can be taken apart for cleaning without -removing any screws. The fuel is forced to the burner from -a pressure tank. With this improved mouthpiece burner -control, the burner may be adjusted for a slug of any size. -The best results can be obtained from a gasoline or kerosene -burner by keeping it clean.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="GAS_BURNERS">GAS BURNERS</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The gas burner used to heat the metal pot is made up -of three sections. The largest burner heats the main part -of the pot. Another pipe leads up to heat the throat, and a -small burner heats the mouthpiece. The pot and throat<span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</span> -burners are held near the pot by a rod which passes through -the pot jacket and under the pot burner. The mouthpiece -burner is held in place by a support and a screw which -extends into the pot jacket.</p> - -<p>The gas enters the burners through the pot gas burner -cocks. The gas cock that feeds the pot burner has a larger -inlet hole than those of the throat or the mouthpiece burners, -because more gas is required for the pot burner. The -inlet holes must be kept open and free from soot and metal, -but should never be drilled larger at any time. Should you -find a burner tip that has been drilled, a new tip should be -applied by driving out the old tip and inserting a new one.</p> - -<p>As the gas leaves the gas cock it passes through the air -mixer. The air mixer is open on the bottom side and allows -a flow of air to mix with the gas. Unless the gas is mixed -with the proper amount of air it will not make sufficient -heat under the pot. Do not at any time allow the gas to -burn in the mixer. Sometimes when lighting the gas or -when the pressure is low the flame may light in the mixer. -It should then be turned out and relighted, holding a flame -near the burner. Should the gas be allowed to burn in the -mixer the heat will be lost before it reaches the burner; -and furthermore, the burner will soon become clogged with -soot.</p> - -<p>From the mixer, the gas passes upward into the pot -burner. The pot burner consists of a circular shaped chamber -which is covered with a flat plate. The top rim of the -chamber is notched, which allows the gas to flow out around -the top plate, forming a very hot flame. The flame from -the burner should be of a bluish appearance. A dirty burner -will cause a yellow flame. There is very little heat in a -yellow flame, and when the burner shows a yellow flame, -it usually indicates a dirty burner or a fire in the mixer. -A very important part of the burner is the top plate. When -this plate becomes warped or badly burned it should be -replaced with a new one.</p> - -<p>Two pipes lead out from the front end of the pot burner -to carry a flame up under the crucible throat. These pipes -are fed through the front gas cock. The gas passes through -a separate chamber in the front side of the pot burner.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</span> -It is very essential that these burners are working properly -as they keep the metal hot in the throat of the crucible.</p> - -<p>The mouthpiece burner consists of a small pipe into -which holes have been drilled to allow the gas to escape. -This burner extends underneath the mouth of the crucible -the full length of the mouthpiece. There are two extra holes -on the right-hand end to give a little more flow of gas at -that point. The holes should never be reamed out larger, -but should be kept clean and free from soot or metal. Metal -sometimes gets through the holes and partly fills the pipe. -This retards the free flow of gas and causes loss of heat to -the mouthpiece.</p> - -<p>Good slugs from a machine are to a great extent dependent -on good, clean burners. Only experience on various -machines will enable one to tell just how much flame to -carry in each burner on a machine. The governor should -regulate the pot and throat burners, when once adjusted. -However, it is better for the operator to regulate the mouthpiece -burner with the gas cock, according to the size of the -slug being cast.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Gas Pot Hints</span></h3> - -<p>Keep gas tips clean and round. A blue flame is the heating -flame. Watch the mouthpiece burner. Clean out metal -and dross which forms there due to metal dripping from the -mouthpiece.</p> - -<p>If the mouthpiece burner does not give a long, blue flame -after cleaning, procure a new mouthpiece burner and replace -the old one.</p> - -<p>A yellow flame indicates too little air in the mixture. -This can be caused from too large a hole in the gas tip, air -inlet partly closed, dirty burners, or gas burning in the -mixer. Sometimes the hole in the tip of the gas cock is too -large. The hole can be paned with a small hammer and -reamed out with a small broach to the proper size.</p> - -<p>The pot burner top plate is fastened by four stove bolts. -These bolts become charred and brittle from the heat, and -the nuts will be very hard to start. Have a few of these -bolts on hand when changing the plates, because the plate -must fit tightly to the burner to obtain the best results.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</span></p> - -<p>Good slugs can not be produced with dirty burners. Keep -them clean. It is better to spend ten or fifteen minutes cleaning -the burners than to lose an hour trying to regulate the -temperature of the metal.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">To Remove the Gas Burners</span></h3> - -<p>Disconnect the hose on the older styles or the gas pipe -union on the newer styles. Separate the mouthpiece burner -from the crucible at the sleeve. (This operation is not necessary -on the thermostat connections.) Pull out the rod -which holds the burners in place and lift them out.</p> - -<p>To remove the mouthpiece burner, take out the screw -which holds the support to the jacket of the pot, slip the -connecting sleeve back, and pull the burner to the left.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="PRESSURE_GOVERNOR">PRESSURE GOVERNOR</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The pressure governor is used to control the flow of gas -to the machine and to keep it at an even pressure. The governor -is placed on the main gas line so the gas must pass -through it before flowing to the machine. It is not necessary -to have a pressure governor on each machine, for where -there is more than one machine, a governor large enough -to supply any amount may be secured.</p> - -<p>The gas enters through a valve in the bottom of the -governor and passes up into the supply chamber. From the -supply chamber the gas flows out to the machine burner. -The pressure in the supply chamber is regulated by an inverted -cup float. The lower rim of the float is immersed in -mercury, which causes the cup to float and also acts as a -seal to prevent the gas escaping through the top of the -governor. Weights are placed on top of the float to counterbalance -the gas pressure. Fastened to the float is a rod -which passes through the gas chamber. This rod connects -to and operates the valve in the inlet opening. When the -gas pressure is increased it raises the float by its pressure. -When the float raises, it at the same time raises the -valve in the intake, which decreases the opening through -which the gas enters. Should the pressure in the main -fall off, the float sinks deeper into the mercury, and the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</span> -opening in the valve is opened, permitting a greater flow of -gas. Thus the pressure in the gas chamber is held uniform, -because the greater the pressure on the float, the smaller -the opening for the gas to enter.</p> - -<p>To regulate the pressure, place weights on the float until -sufficient gas flows to the burners to give a good flame.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="MERCURY_GAS_GOVERNOR">MERCURY GAS GOVERNOR</h2> -</div> - - -<p>In a governor of this style, the gas from the main line -passes through the upper pipe, down through the internal -tube, and escapes between the end of this tube and a column -of mercury in the mercury tube, passing up behind the internal -tube, and out through the lower pipe to the burners.</p> - -<p>To prepare the governor for use, remove the adjusting -rod and pour in mercury until it rises in the mercury tube -almost to the lower end of the internal tube, which can be -seen through the glass disk at the side of the governor. -When the metal in the pot reaches the proper temperature, -the surface of the mercury stands at the lower end of the -internal tube, but a notch in the side of this tube above the -mercury permits a flow of gas sufficient to prevent shutting -the gas entirely off underneath the pot. When the temperature -falls, the mercury in the holder and column will be -cooled, and its surface lowered in the tube. This will allow -an increased flow of gas to the burner until the temperature -of the pot is raised to the proper point.</p> - -<p>The regulation of the governor is effected by moving the -adjusting rod in or out. If the temperature in the pot is too -high and the mercury fails to close the tube, the adjusting -rod must be moved in until the mercury raises in the tube. -If the temperature in the pot is too low, the mercury closes -the tube before the proper temperature is reached in the -pot. Thus the rod must be moved out until the mercury is -lowered from the top of the tube to the proper extent.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="THERMOSTAT_GAS_GOVERNOR">THERMOSTAT GAS GOVERNOR</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The supply of gas at the burners is controlled by the -expansion and contraction of rods immersed in the molten -metal in the crucible at the left-hand side of the metal pot.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</span> -These rods are of a special alloy, which is extremely sensitive -to variations of heat. No mercury is used, so that the -governor is not affected by the pressure of the gas at any -time.</p> - -<p>The principle upon which the thermostat is built, is the -difference in expansion of two metals under heat.</p> - -<p>The part of the thermostat which is immersed in the -metal is made of cast iron and has a hole or pocket in which -the rod of composition metal sets. The upper end pushes -against a hinged lever; the other end of this lever operates -a valve plunger. The expansion of the thermostat rod being -greater than cast iron, raises the valve lever, which -forces down the valve plunger, seating the plunger nearer -the valve seat. This cuts down the flow of gas to the burners. -The rod contracts as the metal cools, and allows the -valve spring to open the valve.</p> - -<p>Underneath the valve rod cap and encircling the valve -rod, is a spiral spring which raises the valve rod as the expansion -rod contracts, which opens the gas inlet, and also -keeps the expansion rod pushed to the bottom of the pocket.</p> - -<p>In the lower end of the valve is a hole to prevent the -burner going out if valve is entirely closed. This hole -must not be enlarged.</p> - -<p>The valve adjusting screw is slotted and has a setscrew -inserted through the valve lever to keep the adjusting -screw from turning. Between the head of the adjusting -screw and under part of the lever is a spring which forces -the head of adjusting screw against the cap of the valve. -When tightening up on the adjusting nut the spring closes, -releasing some of the pressure on the valve, permitting more -gas to pass the valve. By loosening the adjusting nut the -spring expands, forcing the valve down, cutting down the -flow of gas to the burners.</p> - -<p>To adjust thermostat, if metal is not hot enough, raise -the adjusting screw by turning the adjusting nut farther -down; if the metal is too hot, unscrew adjusting nut, allowing -the adjusting screw to force the valve farther down.</p> - -<p>The screw in the top of the expansion rod is for the -purpose of making the rod longer, should occasion require. -Do not change this screw unless necessary.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</span></p> - -<p>There are two sets of rods and valves on the regular -equipment. One set regulates the gas to the pot burners and -the other regulates the gas to the mouthpiece burner. Experience -has shown that it is impractical to regulate the -mouthpiece from the crucible, so cut off this part of the -regulation and use a gas burner cock.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="ELECTRIC_POT_DEFINITIONS">ELECTRIC POT DEFINITIONS</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The circuit is that part of the equipment such as copper -wires, resistance wires, switches, etc., which is intended -to carry electric current. They are all insulated from the -frame of the pot.</p> - -<p>The current is the electricity passing through the equipment.</p> - -<p>Amperes is the volume of current passing through.</p> - -<p>Volts is the strength or pressure of the current.</p> - -<p>A watt is the product of the volts multiplied by the -amperes.</p> - -<p>A kilowatt is 1,000 watts.</p> - -<p>A kilowatt hour is one kilowatt of current used for one -hour.</p> - -<p>A ground is a bare part of the electric circuit accidentally -touching the frame of the pot.</p> - -<p>A short circuit is one or more grounds which will allow -the current to take a shorter path.</p> - -<p>An open is an interruption in the electric circuit such as -a broken wire, etc.</p> - -<p>Resistance is an obstruction in the electric circuit retarding -the flow of current.</p> - -<p>Series connection means that two or more units are connected -in line with each other. Current enters one terminal, -passes through the windings, out of the other terminal, and -directly into the next unit, through its windings, and out to -the opposite side of the line.</p> - -<p>Parallel or multiple connection means that two or more -units are wired in such a way that each makes a complete -circuit of themselves. Current enters a unit, passing -through its windings, and directly back to the line.</p> - -<p>Shunt—A conductor joining two points in a circuit and -designed to divert part of the current.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</span></p> - -<p>An electrical circuit carrying current can best be simply -explained by considering an iron pipe through which water -is flowing under pressure. The pipe represents the circuit, -and water passing through it represents the current. The -volume of water flowing represents the amperes, and the -pressure of the water represents the volts. A leak which -allows the water to escape represents a short circuit, and -a valve in the pipe partially closed represents resistance.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="ELECTRIC_POT">ELECTRIC POT</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The electrical equipment consists of four heaters, a -dynamic thermometer, and a unit control panel. The passage -of electric current through the windings inside the heaters -generates heat which melts the metal in the crucible and -raises it to the proper operating temperature, while the dynamic -thermometer and the magnetic switch on the control -panel operate to keep the metal at this predetermined temperature. -These equipments are either 110 to 120 volts or -210 to 220 volts, direct current or alternating current.</p> - -<p>The crucible heaters are the same for all voltages; they -are connected in “series” for 200-volt to 250-volt circuits -and in “parallel” for 100-volt to 125-volt circuits. They are -immersed directly in the metal and partially surround the -pump-well, heating the metal by direct contact. The heating -element or resistor of these heaters is composed of resistant -ribbon wound on strips of clear mica. Strips of mica -entirely surround the resistor, completely insulating it from -the metal parts of the pot. The resistors are protected by -strong metal casings which surround them. They are not -subject to wear and tear in normal service.</p> - -<p>Heating the metal by direct contact from within the -metal itself by these heaters, makes a very efficient equipment, -as all of the heat generated is immediately transmitted -to the metal exactly where it is required, and there is no -loss of heat due to faulty conduction. The dynamic thermometer -bulb being immersed in the metal adjacent to the -heaters and the pump-well, permits of a very close temperature -regulation.</p> - -<p>As these heaters extend nearly the full height of the -metal in the crucible and pass down through the top of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</span> -metal, there is no possibility of cracking a crucible. When -the metal begins to heat, it is that portion in direct contact -with the heaters which first becomes molten. Internal pressure -is relieved by this melted pathway and the molten -metal will flow to the top of the pot.</p> - -<p>It is important that the pot never be filled with metal -above the under side of the ring which is cast on the inside -of the crucible. If the crucible is filled above this ring, -metal may splash over into the heating insulating material -and touch the electric terminals, grounding them.</p> - -<p>The crucible heater must be entirely covered with metal -at all times. If they are not, that portion that is exposed to -the air will get very hot and continued exposure will burn -them out, destroying them. They are not designed for operation -in the air.</p> - -<p>Do not pry around the units with a screwdriver or pound -on them, if the metal envelope is punctured, molten metal -will immediately enter, grounding the element and destroying -the unit.</p> - -<p>The temperature in the crucible is controlled by an adjustable -dynamic thermometer mounted on the side of the pot, -and which operates a switch in the control panel, turning the -current on and off as needed. The bulb and tube of this thermometer -contain mercury and the bulb is immersed in the -metal in front of the well of the crucible. The tube is connected -to a flattened hollow coiled spring tube. The mercury -also passes through this air tight spring tube. On the free -end of this coiled spring tube is fastened an insulated pin -which operates the contact lever. The contact lever is suspended -downward between two metal contact disks. These -contact disks and the contact lever are connected to the main -line through a magnetic switch mounted in the control panel. -The thermometer only carries current long enough for the -magnetic switch to connect and then the current is carried -directly through the switch.</p> - -<p>As the temperature of the metal rises the mercury in -the bulb expands causing the coiled spring to uncoil slightly, -driving the contact lever against the disk that shuts off the -current, allowing the switch to fall open and disconnecting -the circuit through the crucible heaters.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</span></p> - -<p>As the temperature of the metal falls, the mercury in the -bulb contracts allowing the coiled spring to force the contact -lever against the disk that turns the current on by connecting -the switch to the main line. The variation in the -temperature is held within 15 degrees of the average working -temperature.</p> - -<p>The temperature control is normally set for a maximum -of 550 degrees and a minimum of 535 degrees, that is, with -normal operation the temperature of the metal will always -be between these limits. This is found to give the best all -around casting results for average metal. In case it is desired -at any time to change the operating temperature, this -can be done by turning adjusting screw right-handed for -hotter metal, and left-handed for cooler metal. The head of -this adjusting screw projects through the right-hand side -of the dynamic thermometer cover.</p> - -<p>Do not change the position of the control disks, unless -badly pitted, as their relative distance is determined at the -factory, and very seldom need to be changed.</p> - -<p>A good thermometer should always be used when adjusting -the screw for proper heat. Guessing will not get the -proper results.</p> - -<p>With ordinary work, and after the metal is at operating -temperature, the current will be on and the crucible heaters -generating heat about three minutes, then off and not generating -heat about twelve minutes, and will repeat this cycle -as long as snap switch is left in the “on” position.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Throat and Mouthpiece Heaters</span></h3> - -<p>The mouth and throat heaters are clamped in close contact -with the outside of the crucible throat to keep the -metal at the operating temperature while being pumped -from the crucible to the mold. The throat heater extends -the full length of the pot throat and is held in close contact -with it. The mouth heater is clamped tightly to the pot -mouth. Both heaters are surrounded with heat insulating -material and are held in close contact with the pot throat -and mouth by a U-shaped clamp under the throat unit and -a plate over the mouth unit, drawn tight by two nuts.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</span></p> - -<p>The mouth and throat heaters are always connected in -“series,” one set being used for 100-volt to 125-volt and -another set for 200-volt to 250-volt.</p> - -<p>The heat for the throat and mouth units are controlled -by a manually controlled rheostat moving from the left to -the right, and fastened to the front of the control panel -under and at the rear of the keyboard.</p> - -<p>The rheostat is connected directly to the mouth and -throat heater and is not controlled by the dynamic thermometer.</p> - -<p>The crucible heaters are intended for heating the metal -to the proper temperature, and the mouth and throat heaters -are only intended to keep the metal at the proper temperature -while being forced from the crucible to the mold.</p> - -<p>If the voltage is irregular and remains too high for some -time, or a speedy operator casts large slugs at a rapid rate -continuously, the mouthpiece is apt to become heated and -the slugs will have hollow backs. In this case it will be necessary -to turn rheostat knob left-handed, but if the voltage -remains low for some length of time, or a slow operator -casts small slugs slowly, the mouthpiece may become cold -and the slugs will have poor faces, in which case the rheostat -knob should be turned right-handed.</p> - -<p>When casting large slugs in rapid succession the mold -is apt to become heated, but attempting to regulate the temperature -of the metal in the crucible to overcome the heating -of the mold will fail, because the electric pot is a heating -unit only and will not cool the mold.</p> - -<p>The control panel consists of a magnet switch mounted -on a slate panel enclosed in a steel cabinet. The cabinet also -has a suitable fuse cut-out and the switches which control -both the pot and the electric motor (if used) and places all -controls within easy reach of the operator. Connection is -made between the pot proper, the dynamic thermometer, and -the control panel by suitable wiring enclosed in a flexible -conduit.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Care of Electric Metal Pot</span></h3> - -<p>The contact points on the thermometer and the magnetic -switch should be kept clean and free from corrosion. Use -No. 00 sand-paper. (Never use emery cloth or paper.) Dirt<span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</span> -and corrosion are electrical insulators, and if these contacts -become dirty, electrical contact may not be made when the -temperature reaches 550 degrees F.; the magnetic switch -will not open and the crucible heaters will continue to increase -the temperature of the metal until the fuses are -blown; the dynamic thermometer permanently injured, or -the heating units burned out. When the temperature -reaches above 550 degrees, the metal is too hot, causing back -squirts. When the metal has cooled, the contacts, owing -to the dirt, will not operate, and the metal will continue -to cool until it can not be used. The contact points should be -cleaned about once each two weeks.</p> - -<p>The hole in the hollow tube connecting the bulb and the -flattened coil spring of the dynamic thermometer is very -small and care must be taken that the tube is not injured -when feeding metal to the pot, or that no sharp bends are -made in it, as it will close the hole and interfere with the -proper working of the thermometer.</p> - -<p>Occasionally some of the parts such as the heaters, thermometer, -or the wiring inside the pot may become damaged -and will have to be replaced. In ordering the new parts for -replacements, be sure to specify the voltage being used and -the serial number of the pot. This number plate can be -found on top of the pot cover.</p> - -<p>It is seldom that both crucible heaters will be burned -out at the same time, so if your pot is a 100 to 125-volt equipment, -and one of the crucible heaters tests open or grounded, -and must be removed and replaced, the metal in the crucible -may be heated by the crucible heater that is in good condition; -but if your pot is 200 to 250-volt equipment, and one -of the crucible heaters must be replaced, it will be necessary -to melt the metal in the crucible with a blow torch before -either crucible heater can be removed. It is not necessary -to remove the metal from the pot. Merely keep the metal -agitated while melting it with the blow torch.</p> - -<p>Frequently a heating unit is burned out by a little metal -splashing on the terminals, causing a gradual short circuit. -This trouble can be eliminated by wrapping the heater -terminals with asbestos tape.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</span></p> - -<p>When cleaning the contact points on the dynamic thermometer, -it is necessary to remove the cover by taking out -the two long flat head screws. This cover should be examined -for small particles of metal before replacing.</p> - -<p>To remove and replace a damaged wire in the pot, fasten -another wire securely to one end of it, grasp the other end -with a pair of pliers and pull. The new wire will be pulled -in as the old one is removed.</p> - -<p>Rubber covered wire or slow burning wire is not satisfactory. -A special wire with a special grade of insulation -should be used.</p> - -<p>If it becomes necessary to remove the dynamic thermometer, -heat the metal in the crucible to operating temperature -and then turn the main switch off. Disconnect the -thermometer wiring and dip out the metal to below the level -of the thermometer bulb. Take off the pot cover and remove -the two screws fastening the thermometer case to the -bracket. Grasp the case with the hand and the bulb with a -pair of pliers and raise up and out. Be very careful at all -times not to damage or break the bulb or hollow wire which -contain the mercury; to do so will cause trouble in regulating -the heat.</p> - -<p>Replace the thermometer while the crucible is hot. -See that the bulb does not project out from the casting -so as to interfere with the insertion of ingots of cold metal. -Press the tube firmly but carefully into place over the edge -of the crucible, being careful not to injure it. Fasten the -case to the bracket and reconnect the wiring and put on the -cover.</p> - -<p>All the pot adjustments on the electric pot are the same -as on a gas pot.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Current Consumption</span></h3> - -<p>The maximum current consumption is 1,500 watts and -the minimum 325 watts, the average consumption throughout -a day’s work is approximately 600 watts or .6 kilo-watts. -The cost of current varies widely in different -localities, but you may find the cost of operating your pot -by multiplying the number of hours by the cost of current -per kilowatt hour and then by .6. The result will be the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</span> -cost in cents. For instance, operating a pot nine hours with -current costing six cents per kilowatt hour would cost -thirty-two and four-tenths cents—9 x 6 x .6 equals 32.4 -cents.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Fuses</span></h3> - -<p>The main line fuses, which protect the entire system -from overloads, when blown, should be replaced by other -fuses of the same rating.</p> - -<p>The fuse for the mouth and throat heater circuit is for -the purpose of protecting this circuit from accidents, and -should always be replaced by another fuse of the same -rating. This replacing of the fuses by others of the same -rating is very important. On a 200 to 250-volt circuit, the -main line fuses should be 10 amperes. The mouth and throat -fuse, which is located in the control box above the magnetic -switch, should be 3 amperes. On a 100 to 125-volt circuit the -main line fuses should be 20 amperes. The throat and mouth -fuse should be 5 amperes. Fuses of a greater amperage than -those mentioned may cause the units to burn out or cause -a fire hazard.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="MOLDS">MOLDS</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The various models of machines placed on the market -today have a flexibility that requires a variety of molds -to take care of the varying lengths and thicknesses of slugs. -The molds are adjustable and are all removable from the -mold disk should the occasion require. The molds are all -constructed along the same general line, with a base and -movable cap. The caps in all molds are held in place by two -guides, pinned on each end of the base of the mold, and projecting -into grooves in the cap.</p> - -<p>The base of the mold is screwed firmly to the disk, and -the two liners are held in place by the cap and the pressure -from three screws which project through the rim of the -mold disk. The cap and base being held parallel by the -guides.</p> - -<p>To change the mold from one size of body or length of -slug it is only necessary to loosen the three screws, remove -the liners and insert the ones desired. Do not pry the cap<span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</span> -upward with a screwdriver inserted in the casting range -of the mold cell. When tightening the screws in the rim -of the disk, bring them just to a firm bearing. There is -danger of cracking the rim if the screws are too tight.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">The Universal Adjustable</span></h3> - -<p>The universal adjustable mold is the one most generally -used. By removing the liners and substituting others, slugs -of any length from 5 to 30 picas and from 5 to 14 points in -body may be cast. All standard molds will cast 30-pica -slugs.</p> - -<p>The right-hand, or constant liner, is marked for thickness -only. It is not necessary to change this liner unless the -slug thickness is changed.</p> - -<p>The left-hand liner is marked for thickness and length. -The number stamped for the length, subtracted from 30, -gives the length of slug which will be cast. For example, -if a 13-em slug is wanted, use liner number 17, which allows -the opening in the mold to be the required length. When -ordering liners for these molds, always specify thickness -and length of slug to be cast; also specify U. A. mold.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">The Recessed</span></h3> - -<p>In order to cast light-weight slugs and for quick cooling, -the recessed mold is made. This mold will cast slugs -with cavities, or recesses. The base of this mold is the -same as the universal adjustable. The lower surface of the -cap has rectangular projections and grooves. The molten -metal is forced into these grooves and forms the supporting -ribs beneath the type face. The rectangles form the recesses. -The weight of the slug is reduced about one-third. A -more solid slug is formed because there is less air to be displaced -from the mold. There is less metal in the mold cell, -therefore it cools more rapidly than the regular universal -adjustable. These molds require special left-hand liners and -are adjustable for body size from 10- to 14-point and all -measures from 8 to 30 picas, except the half-em measures. -For these restricted measures a special mold is required and -will only be made on special order. In ordering liners for a -recessed mold you must be careful to specify “recessed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</span> -mold” and the length in ems required. These molds can be -applied to any model of machine, but must never be used -for any size below 10-point.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Display and Headletter</span></h3> - -<p>The special display and headletter mold is similar to a -recessed mold, but to accommodate the increased size of -faces, the recesses are deeper. This mold has practically the -same restrictions as to length of slug as the recessed mold. -One-letter matrices with the character for raised position -must be used on this mold. The filling piece under the first -elevator jaws must be used when using the mold. Matrices -can not be sent in on the duplex rails of the assembling -elevator.</p> - -<p>Each display mold has a body range of 5 points only, so -the entire range of bodies from 15 to 36 points would -require four of these molds as follows: The range of one -is 15 to 19 points, that is, any width of liner from 15 to 19 -points can be used on this mold; the range of the second -would be 20 to 24 points, the third would be 26 to 30 points, -the fourth, 32 to 36 points. The range of the molds are -always marked on the cap so no mistake can be made.</p> - -<p>In ordering liners for the display and headletter molds, -care must be taken to specify the range marked on the cap.</p> - -<p>These molds are limited as to length of measure the -same as the recessed molds.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Advertising</span></h3> - -<p>The advertising figure mold differs from the universal -adjustable only in the mold cap. The cap is constructed with -an extra thick lip against which the overhang in the matrices -are cast. This permits of casting large characters, -which will lap over one or more adjacent slugs. The grooves -in the cap are ground parallel. With this mold slugs from -5- to 12-point can be cast, but not above 12-point at any -time. This mold can also be used for casting headletter -type, by letting the letter overhang the slug. Place a blank -slug underneath the overhanging letters to support them.</p> - -<p>When using the advertising figure equipment, display -figures or characters can be cast at any desired point in the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</span> -line of text matter, the characters or figures casting on the -first slug against the lip of the mold, thus overhanging -one or more other slugs when assembled.</p> - -<p>In determining how large a figure may be cast on any -size of slug from 5- to 12-point, bear in mind that not over -eleven points of the figure may be cast against the lip of the -mold cap.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Carbolite</span></h3> - -<p>There is an adjustable mold used on some machines -which is made of carbolite steel. This mold is harder than -the regular U. A. mold and will not warp easily. However, -it heats up quicker, retains the heat longer and will not -work very satisfactorily for large slugs or where a large -amount of metal is used. The regular U. A. liners are used -on this mold.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">36-em Adjustable</span></h3> - -<p>The universal adjustable molds for 36-em machines will -cast any measure from 30- to 36-ems inclusive, from 5- to -14-point body. If a measure shorter than 30 ems is desired -a regular 30-em mold must be used.</p> - -<p>In order to change liners on a 36-em mold it is necessary -to take the mold from the mold disk, as the liners fit -around three sides of the post, and can not be changed in -the regular way.</p> - -<p>It is possible to remove the 36-em mold from the disk -and substitute a 30-em mold. A filling piece is required to -take up the difference between the 30-em and the 36-em -mold.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Mold Wipers</span></h3> - -<p>There are two felt wipers which are designed to keep the -face and back of the mold clean. A small amount of a mixture -of cup grease and graphite rubbed into the back wiper -will keep the base of the mold clean. For the front mold -wiper, keep the felt well saturated with graphite. Do not use -oil or grease on the front wiper, or it will be transferred -onto the matrices and into the magazine. A good plan is to -soak the felt with gasoline and rub the graphite in. When -the felt becomes worn, new ones should be applied. When -applying new felt, put graphite between the layers. Be careful<span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</span> -that the felt does not become worn to the extent that -the steel part of the wipers will be allowed to rub against -the mold.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Mold Hints</span></h3> - -<p>If the mold cap guides become bent they will throw the -mold cap out of alignment with the constant side of the mold. -The guides can be straightened by removing the mold from -the disk. Place a straight-edge across the mold and cap to -determine how the guides are bent. They may be tapped -with a hammer and a piece of brass rule to spring them back -in position. Care should be used in this operation and if -bent very much, the mold should be shipped to the nearest -agency for repairs. A mold with bent guides or a warped -cap will cause back squirts and to remedy these, the mold -must be repaired. Mold cap guides can be renewed by driving -out the small pin that holds them in place in the base -of the mold and fitting in new ones.</p> - -<p>If a mold has become warped by overheating, it can -be shipped to the nearest agency to be ground. If the mold -is ground on the back, the slug will be less than type high, -according to the amount taken off in the grinding. The liners -must be ground as well as the mold. Always be very careful -of the mold so this will not be necessary.</p> - -<p>The bottom of the mold sometimes becomes tinned. This -will not permit the mold and mouthpiece to lock up properly. -The trouble can be remedied by removing the mold from the -disk and placing it on the bench. Put a small amount of -metal polish on a block of hard wood. Rub the wood back -and forth the entire length of the bottom of the mold, with -an even pressure. As the metal polish contains an abrasive, -the mold, cap, and liners should be kept together, so that -the casting edge of the mold will not be rounded. Be careful -of the molds as they are one of the most important -parts of the machine and will run indefinitely if handled -intelligently.</p> - -<p>Take the mold apart and clean the base and the cap with -the polish. Place each part in a vise so it will be held solid -while cleaning. After using the polish, clean with gasoline.</p> - -<p>When metal gets into a mold cap screw in the disk after -a squirt, do not hammer the metal with a screwdriver. To do<span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</span> -so merely drives the metal tighter in the threads of the hole. -Gouge the metal out with a knife a little at a time.</p> - -<p>Do not remove the mold keeper from the mold. The mold -keeper is for the purpose of holding the lugs of the matrices -in alignment. If it is removed and not replaced properly, -it will interfere with the proper alignment of every line set.</p> - -<p>Keep the face of the mold clean and free from metal -which has a tendency to accumulate during the day while the -mold is being used. A clean face of the mold will greatly -facilitate the press make-ready. Metal on the mold causes -high and low letters on the slug.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="REMOVING_AND_REPLACING_MOLD">REMOVING AND REPLACING MOLD</h2> -</div> - - -<p>To remove a mold from the disk, loosen the three screws -in the rim of the disk, take out the four screws which hold -the mold to the disk and lift the mold out of the pocket, -being very careful not to drop it.</p> - -<p>In replacing a mold in the disk, be sure that all seating -surfaces of the mold and disk are clean and free of all -metal, so the mold will align with the trimming knives and -mold knife. Then bring the four front screws to a light -bearing. Next tighten the three cap screws in the disk, the -center one first. Then tighten the four front screws tight.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="DISTRIBUTOR">DISTRIBUTOR</h2> -</div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Distributor Bar</span></h3> - -<p>The distributor bar is suspended between the distributor -screws, and is fastened to the distributor beam by two machine -screws, and held rigid by dowel pins.</p> - -<p>There are seven combination rails along the bar. These -combination rails are cut away in various places, and certain -of the rails or combinations terminate directly above -each channel in the magazine entrance. The V-shaped end of -the matrices have combinations or distributing teeth which -engage these rails. The bar is adjusted to proper height and -position so that the matrices, leaving the top rails of the -distributor box, do not bind on the aligning plate at the -back of the bar above the rails. These adjusting screws are -in the top of the distributor beam and rest on the yoke. On -the later machines the side-wise adjustment is made by an<span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</span> -adjusting screw fastened to the beam and banking against -the right side of the yoke.</p> - -<p>Each matrix has a combination corresponding to the -combination cut on the bar. The matrix is conveyed along -the bar by the distributor screws. As soon as the matrix -reaches the end of the rail corresponding to the combination -on the matrix, it drops into the channel, which guides -it into the magazine.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Channel Entrance</span></h3> - -<p>The channel entrance is connected to the rear end of the -magazine on the magazine frame by two hinge screws. The -entrance is held in position by a spring at the right side and -fastened to the magazine frame.</p> - -<p>The channel entrance consists of a number of flexible -partitions, which are assembled in the channel entrance partition -plate, and act as a guide for the matrices as they fall -from the distributor bar into the magazine.</p> - -<p>Each partition rests against the side of a tooth in the -automatic stopping bar. If matrices become clogged in the -entrance guides, they pile up until they come in contact with -the distributor screws. This forces the partitions against -the teeth of the automatic stopping bar which causes the -distributor driving mechanism to stop.</p> - -<p>At the bottom of the channel entrance, on each side, and -banking against the magazine frame, are two adjusting -screws which are used to adjust the position of the channel -entrance. The adjustment is made to give the matrix free -movement in transferring from the channel entrance to the -magazine under the channel entrance matrix guard.</p> - -<p>The upper end of the partitions sometimes get bent to -one side and thin matrices will fall into the wrong channel, -causing the channel to clog. The lower end of the partitions -should set so they will guide the matrices into the magazine. -If they are sprung to either side they will hold the matrices -and keep them from entering the magazine, causing the -matrices to clog in the channel.</p> - -<p>As the matrices are carried along the distributor bar by -the screws, there should be <span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>16</sub></span> of an inch between the bottom -of a matrix suspended on the distributor bar and the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</span> -top of the channel entrance partitions. Adjust, on models -1, 2, and 3, by the two screws in the magazine frame which -rest against the magazine supporting rods. Care must be -used in turning these screws, as they move the magazine -also.</p> - -<p>On Model 5 or later machines, this adjustment is set at -the factory, so it is rarely necessary to change it.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Distributor Screws</span></h3> - -<p>The conveyor screws are assembled on the distributor -beam. Two of these screws are in front of the distributor bar -and one in the back. As soon as the matrix leaves the distributor -box it is conveyed along the bar.</p> - -<p>On the right-hand end of the screws are the driving -gears which are pinned to the screw shaft. These gears -are properly timed at the factory so as to carry the matrix -in a vertical position without bending.</p> - -<p>There is a small pin projecting between two of the teeth -of one gear which must mesh with a tooth of its companion -gear which is partly cut away. This prevents the gears turning -when they are improperly timed.</p> - -<p>This timing is readily accomplished by forming a small -triangle with the pins in the end of the gears and the openings -in the gears, or by placing the points of the upper and -lower screws on the right end in the same relative position -before connecting the gears with the distributor clutch -shaft and gear.</p> - -<p>Do not raise the back distributor screw while there are -matrices on the bar, as it is difficult to get their lugs in the -right threads again.</p> - -<p>In closing the back screw see that the pin in the gear -matches with the short tooth in the front gear.</p> - -<p>The old distributor screws were pitched four threads to -the inch. The new distributor screws have a much wider -pitch, two threads to the inch, consequently the matrices are -moved along the bar twice as fast to their respective channels. -They are called “two-pitch screws.”</p> - -<p>The two-pitch screws keep the matrices widely separated -on the bar, permitting a freer distribution of large -matrices.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Distributor Screw Guard</span></h3> - -<p>The distributor screw guard is suspended between the -front conveyor screws and fits over the lower screw. This -guard is for the purpose of deflecting the matrix away -from the lower screw as it drops from the combination bar.</p> - -<p>On models 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 18, and 19, this guard is fastened -by two nuts to the two machine screws projecting through -the front side of the combination bar.</p> - -<p>On models 8, 14, and 14-s-k this guard is loose, working -on a fulcrum rod, and operated by the distributor screw -guard lever and the right-hand locating bar. The lever is -fastened to the right-hand magazine frame guide by a -fulcrum screw. Whenever the locating levers are shifted for -the purpose of raising or lowering the magazine frames, -a screw on the right-hand locating lever moves against the -guard lever and forces the guard upward. If there are any -matrices on the combination bar when attempting to change -the position of the magazines, this guard will strike them, -and prevent the guard from making the full upward stroke. -Retarding the bar prevents the locating levers and blocks -from moving far enough to clear the bar stops, thus not permitting -the magazine frame to be moved.</p> - -<p>If the magazine frames were changed with matrices on -the bar, these matrices would drop in the magazine that -was in operating position, causing wrong fonts in the -magazine.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Distributor Clutch</span></h3> - -<p>The distributor screws are driven by a friction plate, -keyed to the distributor clutch shaft, and held against the -face of the distributor driving pulley by a spring inside of -the distributor clutch flange. This allows the clutch to slip -when anything binds the distributor screws.</p> - -<p>The clutch shaft, operated by the friction plate, drives -the distributor screws by means of small gears which are -timed so that the matrices will hang perpendicular from -the distributor bar.</p> - -<p>To remove the distributor clutch, loosen the small screw -on the distributor clutch lever, and remove the clutch rod, -spring, and lever. Remove the hexagon head machine screw<span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</span> -that holds the clutch bracket to the distributor beam. Insert -a screw driver between the bracket and the beam at the -upper end and pry the bracket away from the beam. -Lift the bracket off over the end of the shaft. Remove the -screw in the washer on the end of the clutch shaft. Take -out the spring which is behind the washer. The friction -plate and pulley can then be removed over the end of the -shaft.</p> - -<p>The friction plate should be kept free from oil at all -times. There is an oil hole in the flange of the pulley which -should not be overlooked when oiling. This hole should be -kept stopped with a counter sunk screw to prevent the oil -working out on the drive belt.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Distributor Stopping Mechanism</span></h3> - -<p>The stopping bar is on the magazine channel entrance, -and is operated by the partitions and a spring hooked on the -stopping bar and the frame of the channel entrance.</p> - -<p>The right side of the small teeth on the stopping bar -should touch each partition (which is flexible). When a -matrix fails to enter the magazine, the channel becomes -clogged. This causes the matrices to bind on the distributor -screws which moves the partition to the right, throwing the -stopping bar from the clutch plate. This allows the clutch -lever screw to catch the clutch flange collar, force the -friction plate away from the driving pulley, and stop the -distributor.</p> - -<p>The clutch plate is held by two screws to the distributor -clutch lever.</p> - -<p>The stopping bar should rest <span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>32</sub></span> of an inch on the clutch -plate. Adjust by loosening the screws which hold the plate. -The holes in the plate are elongated, to permit the plate -being moved sidewise.</p> - -<p>When adjusting be sure that the partitions are straight -and touching the teeth of the stopping bar on the right side. -If not, when straightening, they would cause the stopping -bar to rest on the clutch plate more than it should. This -would prevent the clutch lever and screw going into action -instantly, which would cause thin matrices to bend if caught.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="THE_SPIRAL_AUTOMATIC">THE SPIRAL AUTOMATIC</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The new style distributor screw driving mechanism is -termed the spiral automatic.</p> - -<p>The spiral automatic does away with the channel entrance -stopping bar and flexible entrance partitions. The -channel entrances of the new style are equipped with fixed -partitions which can not become bent, damaged or twisted -out of adjustment by the action of the distributing mechanism. -Some of the features are: The channel entrance partitions -are thinner, allowing large matrices to pass freely -through the channels. The partitions are more rigid, although -thinner, because they are fixed and supported their -entire length. The entrance once set, does not have to be -readjusted for different sizes of matrices.</p> - -<p>The partitions have guides at their lower end, which are -arranged to direct the various matrices into their respective -channels by having contact with the lugs instead of the -body of the matrix, giving the minimum amount of friction.</p> - -<p>Two rotary wedges are pinned to the right end of the -two front distributor screw shafts. These wedges are placed -so the thin edge of one wedge is opposite the thick edge of -the other. These wedges rotate with the screws.</p> - -<p>The small timing gear on the lower front distributor -screw is loose on the shaft. A connection between the screw -and the gear is made by two parallel pins, one on the gear -and the other on the wedge. These pins are held together by -a spiral spring. The tension of the spring should be so the -slightest drag on the lower screw would allow the pins to -separate.</p> - -<p>When anything binds or retards the revolution of the -lower screw, the two parallel pins separate, which changes -the relation of the wedges, causing them to lock. This locking -of the wedges stops the distributor screws and releases -the tension of the clutch flange on the distributor washer -clutch flange permitting the driving pulley to run free.</p> - -<p>Assembled on the distributor clutch pulley washer clutch -flange are two distributor clutch stops. These are called -left-hand stops. Fastened to the distributor clutch flange -are two distributor clutch stops. These are called right-hand -stops.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</span></p> - -<p>When the distributor is operating, the right-hand stops -are held on the left-hand stops by two spiral springs. One -end of each spring is fastened to an adjustable spring collar -that slips over the distributor clutch flange; the other -ends are fastened to the pulley washer clutch flange. These -stops force the pulley washer flange against the driving -pulley, operating the distributor.</p> - -<p>The tension of these spiral springs should be just tight -enough to hold the stops together. When the spiral locks, -the tension of the spring should permit the right stops to -leave the left, releasing the pressure on the driving pulley.</p> - -<p>The tension of these springs can be adjusted by releasing -the clamping screw in the spring collar and turning -the collar.</p> - -<p>Remember that anything binding the lower screw will -prevent the distributor from operating.</p> - -<p>A matrix not lifting properly, a dry distributor shaft -bearing, or the front rails of the distributor box bearing -against the lower screw will cause the screw to drag and -stop.</p> - -<p>If the spiral spring that holds the two pins together is -too strong, matrix ears or lugs will be bent. The spring, -when at its proper tension, should not bind the ears or lugs -of the matrices when they drag the lower screw.</p> - -<p>When having trouble with the spiral automatic, do not -change the spring tension unless you are sure that it is necessary -to do so.</p> - -<p>The tension of the two springs, which hold the stops on -the clutch flange and washer flange, should be just strong -enough to keep the stops together. Too much spring tension -will have a tendency to bend matrices or prevent the proper -working of the spiral.</p> - -<p>To remove the distributor clutch flange and washer -clutch flange on a machine with the spiral automatic: Loosen -the small screw on the distributor clutch lever, and remove -the clutch rod and lever. Remove the two headless screws in -the knurled lever flange on the end of the clutch flange shaft. -Remove the hexagon head machine screw that holds the -clutch bracket to the distributor beam. Insert a screwdriver -between the bracket and the beam at the upper end and pry<span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</span> -the bracket away from the beam. Lift the bracket off over -the end of the shaft. Remove the flat headed screw in the -washer on the end of the clutch flange shaft. Take out the -spring which is behind the washer. Take off the clutch flange -shaft, stops and springs, assembled. Unscrew the clutch -pulley washer flange stop screw. The clutch pulley washer -flange can now be removed.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="DISTRIBUTOR_BOX">DISTRIBUTOR BOX</h2> -</div> - - -<p>After the line has been transferred from the first elevator -jaws to the second elevator bar it is carried by the second -elevator lever to the distributor box. The distributor box -contains the upper and lower rails, tilting rails, matrix lift, -font distinguisher, box bar and point assembled, safety -spring, lift cam lever, lift lever, lift hinge pin, lift lever -spring, lift spring, lift cam roll, and matrix lift adjusting -screw.</p> - -<p>When the matrices are transferred from the second elevator -bar to the box bar they are supported at their lower -end, by the tilting rails. These rails release the strain on -the matrix combination, and also prevent matrices falling -from the bar if there is any space between the two bars.</p> - -<p>To assure a good alignment of the two bars, the box -bar pin hole at the left is elongated, allowing play to the bar, -which permits the teeth of the second elevator bar to align -easily with the box bar.</p> - -<p>Matrices, coming into the box, hang to the rails on the -box bar by their teeth until they reach the vertical face of -the box rails. There are two upper and two lower rails held -to the box plates (front and back) by dowel pins and screws, -so that the matrix will align perfectly with all four rails -and the bar point at the right end of the box.</p> - -<p>The rails must align the matrix to clear the distributor -screws and the aligning plate on the combination bar without -binding. The matrix must also pass between the vertical -face of the rails and the bar point. If these rails become -worn, they will permit more than one thin matrix to pass -the bar point, or will not lift the matrix so it will clear the -screws properly, because of the unevenness of the vertical<span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</span> -face of the rails. This will bend the ears of the matrix and -stop the distributor.</p> - -<p>The only remedy for worn rails is to apply new ones. -Four new rails must be applied, as the vertical faces of -all the four rails wear, and this is the only method of obtaining -the proper alignment again.</p> - -<p>A safety spring is pinned in a grooved part of the upper -front rail at the right end to prevent matrices turning and -getting caught by the lift when the shifter is suddenly -withdrawn. It is only the matrix ready to be lifted that -need be held by the spring.</p> - -<p>As the matrices are lifted by the matrix lift they must -pass between the vertical face on the rails and the bar point. -All matrices are the same thickness where they pass this -point. There is just sufficient space between the rails and -the bar point for but one thin matrix to pass when lifted -by the matrix lift. If the bar point becomes worn or broken -it will permit more than one thin matrix to be lifted to the -distributor screws, resulting in the clogging of the channel -entrance or bending the matrix.</p> - -<p>When the bar point becomes worn a new one should be -applied. A new bar point can be applied by removing the -bar, and, with a small nail set, driving out the two pins that -hold the bar point. Put the new point in its proper position, -place the bar in the box, and test with a thin matrix -by raising the lift. The matrix should pass the point without -binding. When the point is set properly, remove the bar -from the box and drill two holes for the pins. Sometimes -the bar point can be drawn out a little by peening it with a -small machinist hammer. However, extreme care must be -used, so the bar rails will not be damaged by the hammer. -Just a few light taps of the hammer should be sufficient.</p> - -<p>The font distinguisher is placed in the lower right end of -the box, between the two lower rails. All the matrices must -pass this distinguisher. When properly adjusted, it will stop -all matrices of a different font size to the one being used, or -one of the same font turned backwards. To change font -distinguisher, turn the stud one complete turn for each size. -Turn the stud to the left for a smaller size and to the -right for a larger size.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</span></p> - -<p>On the multiple magazine machines the font distinguisher -is automatically changed when changing the position -of the magazines.</p> - -<p>Matrices must never be driven over the point of the distinguisher -when they stop in the box, but should be pushed -to the second elevator bar and the wrong font or the turned -matrix removed. Driving a matrix over the font distinguisher -not only damages the matrix, but it also often breaks -the font distinguisher and causes serious damage to the box -by throwing the various parts out of their proper alignment. -When this happens it is almost impossible to get the box -back into proper shape.</p> - -<p>The matrix lift mechanism is composed of the matrix -lift lever, the matrix lift cam lever, matrix lift spring, -matrix lift cushion spring, matrix lift hinge pin, matrix lift -cam roll, and the matrix lift.</p> - -<p>This matrix lift is at the right end of the box and is -held to the lift lever by a fulcrum screw and forced against -the font distinguisher block by a small coil spring. The -lift should set so the back of the shoulder aligns with the -vertical face of the rails. If by any accident it is forced -out of alignment to the left, the lift cannot engage the -bottom of the matrices and lift them over the vertical face -of the rails.</p> - -<p>The shoulder and seat of the lift should be kept free -from gum or dirt so the matrices will not slip off while being -raised. When the shoulder and seat of the lift wear so that -it will lift two thin matrices or lift them crooked, the lift -must be replaced by a new one.</p> - -<p>The cam lever and lift lever are connected by a cushion -spring which absorbs the movement of the cam lever, if the -lever hangs up. There is an adjusting screw in the matrix -lift lever which permits the lift lever to be raised or lowered.</p> - -<p>The matrix lift must raise the lugs of the matrices clear -of the vertical face of the box rails. If it does not do this, -thin matrices, when being moved by the distributor screws, -would be forced against the screws and become damaged. -To adjust the lift, turn the distributor screws by hand until -the cam roller is at the low part of the cam, place a thin -matrix in the distributor box against the vertical face of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</span> -rails, then adjust screw until the shoulder of the lift is not -more than <span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>64</sub></span> of an inch under the bottom of the matrix. -The lift then should raise the matrix <span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>32</sub></span> of an inch above -the top rails in the distributor box when the cam roller is -at the highest part of the cam. After adjusting the lift, -be sure that the adjusting screw locknut is tight.</p> - -<p>The buffer of the distributor shifter should come in the -box almost to the distributor lift, but should never come -in far enough to engage the lift. The distance the shifter -can travel into the box is regulated by a stop screw which -sets in the shifter slideway. However, this screw sometimes -gets broken off, comes out, or is worn off. This would allow -the shifter buffer to engage the lift and cause undue wear.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Lower Distributor Box</span><br> -For Models 2 and 4</h3> - -<p>On the upper distributor of a Model 2 or 4 the matrices -are raised over the rails by the matrix lift, the same as on -any other model. The upper portion of the inclined rails, -however, are cut away. There is a bridge on the upper distributor -box on which the matrices for the upper magazine -ride until they catch on the distributor bar. The matrices -for the lower magazines have a slot in the bottom so that -they will not ride on the bridge. They fall from the upper -box, through a chute, into the lower box, where they are -separated and delivered to the lower distributor rail.</p> - -<p>Care should be taken to see that the box escapements (or -matrix lift) work freely at all times. If dirt is allowed to -accumulate, the escapements will not work freely; the matrices -will be prevented from separating and cause them to -clog in the box.</p> - -<p>To adjust the escapement pawls (or matrix lift) in a -lower box, turn the screws until the matrix lift lever cam -roll rides in the lower part of the cam. Adjust with the -adjusting screw until the point of the male pawl clears the -bottom of the slot in the matrix about <span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>64</sub></span> of an inch. See -that the male pawl does not become bent; this point should -admit a thin matrix only between both pawls. The female -pawl must have a retaining hold on the matrix of at least <span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>32</sub> -</span><span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</span> -of an inch when the male pawl is adjusted to clear the bottom -of the slot.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Distributor Box Matrix Lift Cam</span></h3> - -<p>This cam is fastened to the distributor back screw by -means of a taper pin. There is no adjustment of the cam. -It should not be detached unless badly worn, and then it -should be replaced by a new one.</p> - -<p>To apply a new cam: Drive out taper pin and slip cam off -the shaft, placing a new one on the shaft in such a position -that the holes in the cam will match with the hole in the -shaft. Use an 8 x 32 headless screw to hold the cam in position. -Put a thick matrix with a full size lug in the box in the -regular way. See that the lift is adjusted to raise the matrix -<span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>32</sub></span> of an inch above the upper rails. Then turn the -distributor screws by hand, and when the matrix starts to -raise and enter the screws, the side of the matrix opposite -the distributor shifter should clear the threads on the distributor -screws <span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>32</sub></span> of an inch. If the matrix does not clear -the threads <span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>32</sub></span> of an inch, loosen the small screw in the cam, -turn the cam so that when the matrix lift starts to raise the -matrix it will clear the threads properly. Fasten the cam -securely with the screw, and then run through a few lines to -make sure that the cam is set right. Then drill a hole in the -shaft and fasten with a pin.</p> - -<p>Before applying a new matrix lift cam, make sure that -the upper and lower rails in the box are not worn; if worn, -renew the rails before applying the new cam. It is seldom -necessary to replace a lift cam, due to the small amount -of wear the cam undergoes.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Distributor Troubles</span></h3> - -<p>Considerable annoyance and lost time is caused by distributor -troubles. Some of the most frequent troubles may -be traced to the following:</p> - -<p>The lifting of two thin matrices to the distributor is -caused by having too much space between the end of the -bar point and the vertical face of the rails, due to worn -rails or bar point, or both.</p> - -<p>Bent matrices are caused by the rails being worn, worn -bar point, matrix lift out of adjustment, worn lift cam,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</span> -safety spring broken or not functioning, conveyer screws -out of time.</p> - -<p>Matrices may drop in the wrong channel of the magazine -if the flexible guides become bent. If the lugs of the -matrices are thicker than those regularly running in that -channel, the matrices will clog in the entrance and stop the -distributor.</p> - -<p>The back conveyer screw, being set too far from the front -screws, will cause the matrices to fall in the wrong channel -or twist as they leave the distributor box rails. Adjust -the screw with the two adjusting screws at each end of the -conveyer screw bearing.</p> - -<p>A floor that is uneven or shaky will cause the matrices to -drop in the wrong channel.</p> - -<p>Matrices will drop on top of the partitions or in the wrong -channel if the distributor beam is out of adjustment. Adjust -with the screw that is fastened to the beam at the front -and banks against the right side of the yoke.</p> - -<p>Matrices with damaged or worn distributing teeth or -combinations will drop in the wrong channel.</p> - -<p>The matrix combinations, a very important part of the -matrix, is sufficient under ordinary conditions to last for -years. It is possible, however, to ruin a set of combinations -in a very short time. The causes are almost always due to -bad alignment at one or possibly all of the various transfers. -The matrices are transferred at three distinct points, where -the combinations are involved.</p> - -<p>The first transfer is from the first elevator jaws onto -the second elevator bar at the intermediate transfer channel. -The line of matrices, when in position at this transfer point, -should line up with the bar so they will have a perfect -transfer to the bar without binding. Use the set screw -at the bottom of the first elevator slide on the right hand -side to raise or lower the slide for the proper alignment. -This alignment should be as nearly perfect as possible. If -the second elevator bracket and bar do not seat properly -on the intermediate channel rails, or if these rails are out -of true or worn, the trouble should be remedied so the bar -will align properly for the transfer. The bar should be -perfectly smooth and free from burrs, and should be held<span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</span> -tight against the bracket plate by the two flat head screws -that extend through the plate.</p> - -<p>The second transfer is from the second elevator bar to -the distributor box bar. The second elevator, when in its -normal position, should be adjusted so the second elevator -bar will line up with the distributor box bar. The distributor -box bar should be perfectly smooth and free from -burrs.</p> - -<p>The third transfer is from the distributor box rails to -the combination bar. The distributor box rails should be -perfectly square with each other. The matrices should -transfer freely from the distributor box rails to the combination -rails on the bar. There must be perfect alignment -at all of these points of transfer, or undue wear on the -matrix combinations will result.</p> - -<p>Matrices with damaged combination teeth, or with small -burrs on the teeth, will not drop squarely between the -flexible guides or will wobble as they leave the bar, and -cause distributor stops. This trouble can usually be remedied -by dressing the burrs off the teeth with a fine file. -Be very careful not to dress the teeth below the plane of the -surface of the matrices. Also make sure that there are -no burrs on the combinations where the teeth are supposed -to be cut away.</p> - -<p>The distributor screws must be kept clean and free from -oil at all times, or the dirt and oil will be transferred onto -the matrices and into the magazine.</p> - -<p>Battered ears or lugs on the matrices will cause distributor -stops. The ears of the offending matrices should be -examined, and if it is found they are battered out of shape -or increased in thickness, they should be carefully dressed -down with a very fine file or a matrix file gauge to their -original thickness. Care should be taken to see that the -edges or sides of the matrix bodies are not altered. When -the ears of the matrices become bent they can be straightened -by laying the bent matrix on a perfectly flat surface -and with a pair of smooth jawed pliers straighten the -matrix so it will lie flat on the surface without rocking. -If it becomes necessary to straighten a matrix with a -hammer care should be used to use a very light one. The<span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</span> -shape of the matrix can be changed very easily when -pounded, and the matrix can not align properly with the -other matrices.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">To Remove a Distributor Box</span></h3> - -<p>Back the machine until the second elevator descends -from its seat. Pull down on the magazine channel entrance. -(If the box is equipped with the automatic font distinguisher, -press in on the stud until the distinguisher is -resting against the lower front rail of the box and turn -the stud to right a quarter of a turn.) Press downward -on the handle of the screw which holds the box in position -and unscrew until it stops. Pull downward on the box.</p> - -<p>Care must be used in replacing the box to seat as high -as it will go and have the washer on the screw so that it -clamps the box bracket to the distributor beam. Turn -upward on the handle of the screw.</p> - -<p>The new distributor box bracket is provided with pins -that fit in a groove in the distributor beam to prevent the -box being placed in any other than the correct position.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="FIRST_ELEVATOR_JAWS_AND_SLIDE">FIRST ELEVATOR JAWS AND SLIDE</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The first elevator slide is held in place by four gibs on the -vise frame so that the jaws will stand parallel with the -mold. The gibs are also used for adjusting the first elevator -jaws so they will just clear the delivery and the intermediate -channels. The slide is operated by cam No. 1, through the -first elevator and the auxiliary levers and connecting link.</p> - -<p>The first elevator jaws are attached to the top of the first -elevator slide. They carry the line of matrices to the casting -position and then to the second elevator. When the matrices -have entered the first elevator jaws they are in position -with their face toward the mold. The elevator slide travels -down to the vise, the mold advances and the lower lugs -of the matrices enter the groove of the mold, the elevator -raises for alignment and lifts the line up against the aligning -groove, or mold keeper, of the mold for casting.</p> - -<p>As the first elevator jaws descend to the vise cap, the -center screw in the top of the first elevator slide strikes on<span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</span> -the vise cap and regulates the distance from the lugs of the -matrices to the aligning groove in the mold when the mold -slide advances.</p> - -<p>There should be <span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>64</sub></span> of an inch space between the bottom -of the center screw and vise cap when first elevator is lifted -for alignment. If the center screw is not properly adjusted, -when the mold advances the lower lugs on the matrices -would be sheared. An entire font of matrices might be -ruined in a very short time in this manner.</p> - -<p>To test this adjustment, place a good matrix in the first -elevator jaws, turn the machine until the adjusting screw -is resting on the vise cap, disconnect the mold slide and -bring the mold disk forward so the lug of the matrix enters -the groove in the mold. Raise the elevator slide with the -left hand, which raises the lug of the matrix against the -aligning groove in the mold. At this point there should be -<span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>64</sub></span> of an inch between the end of the center screw and the -vise cap. If not, turn the screw with the right hand until it is -resting on the vise cap. Then turn the screw to the left -until it is approximately <span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>64</sub></span> of an inch from the vise cap.</p> - -<p>On the older model machines this adjusting screw is ⅜ -of an inch in diameter and has 16 threads to the inch. By -turning the screw to the left one-quarter of a revolution, it -allows the <span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>64</sub></span>-inch adjustment. On all new machines the -adjusting screw is ½ inch in diameter and has 12 threads -to the inch. Turning the screw one-fifth of a revolution -allows the <span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>64</sub></span>-inch adjustment.</p> - -<p>As the mold disk moves forward the elevator jaws raise -for alignment, the lower lugs of the matrices being raised -against the aligning groove in the mold. The locking stud -blocks receive the mold disk locking studs so that the mold -sets parallel with the side of the vise. The elevator should -be adjusted so that the jaws will be parallel with the mold.</p> - -<p>If the jaws are not parallel with the mold the face alignment -on the slug will not be straight.</p> - -<p>The method of testing this adjustment is made by setting -the vise jaws to 30 picas, placing a good matrix in -each end of the first elevator jaws. Let the first elevator -jaws down on the vise cap. Disconnect the mold slide; -bring the mold slide forward by hand. Be sure it comes over<span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</span> -the lugs of the matrices without binding, as the matrices -must be free. To test the alignment, raise the first elevator -by hand, thus raising the lugs of the matrices up against -the aligning groove in the mold. If the matrix on the right-hand -side is found to be tight, and the one on the left-hand -side is found to be loose, this proves that the first elevator -jaws are not parallel with the mold. The four gibs act as a -guide for the elevator slide. If the matrix on the left-hand -side is loose, the two top gibs should be moved to the right, -and the two bottom gibs moved to the left.</p> - -<p>In taking down or erecting a machine, do not disturb the -two gibs on the right-hand side. Leave them for a guide to -adjust the other two gibs. On machines that have the inclined -galley it is necessary to remove the right-hand gib to -remove the galley bracket, but as it is doweled, it is impossible -to get it back into the wrong position.</p> - -<p>The elevator jaw must be adjusted so as to clear the intermediate -and delivery channels without binding. If it is -too far away, move all four gibs exactly the same distance.</p> - -<p>The first elevator jaws should align with the second elevator -bar when the first elevator is at its full up-stroke, -so that the matrices will pass freely from the first to the -second elevator. When the first elevator goes to the slide -guide, the square head adjusting screw on the bottom of the -slide comes in contact with the vise frame, regulates the -height to which the elevator raises, the screw holding the -slide, and the spring in the connecting link being compressed -to take up the extra movement of the elevator lever.</p> - -<p>Unless the matrices transfer freely from the first elevator -jaws to the second elevator bar, the combinations -would soon become damaged, causing poor distribution.</p> - -<p>Test by transferring a line from the jaws to the bar -by hand. If the line of matrices moves onto the bar without -dragging, the adjustment need not be disturbed.</p> - -<p>Whenever it is necessary to make this adjustment, place -the machine in transfer position, place a matrix that has all -the combinations, in the first elevator jaws against the -spring pawls; place a piece of white paper in the spaceband -box, at the end of the spaceband lever pawl; lay an electric -light on the transfer channel; close one eye, looking through<span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</span> -the first elevator from the left end with the other; adjust -with the screw on the bottom of the first elevator slide, -at the right side, so the combinations on the matrix align -with grooves on the second elevator bar. The final test for -this adjustment, is to transfer the line as above stated. The -line must transfer without dragging. Use the adjusting -screw until this is accomplished.</p> - -<p>Before making the adjustment be sure the first elevator -jaws are not loose on the slide, that the left end of the -second elevator bar is not battered, that the second elevator -plate is not loose, or worn, that the second elevator is adjusted -properly, that there is no dirt or gum holding the -second elevator from seating, that there is no metal on top -of the adjusting screw, that the screw which holds the first -elevator slide stop is not loose. See that the transfer slide -finger is not bent.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">First Elevator Jaws</span></h3> - -<p>The first elevator jaws consist of the front and back -jaws, the jaw spring pawls, duplex rail, duplex rail levers -and springs, separating block, and line stop.</p> - -<p>The two jaws are held together by two screws extending -through the separating block. On the right-hand end of -the jaws are the spring pawls. The pawl for the back jaw -is held in a slot by two small screws and projects through -to the front. The front jaw pawl is grooved and held in -place by two screws and a plate, and projects through to -the back. These two pawls retain the matrices after they -have entered the jaws. Should they break or become inoperative, -the matrices would have a tendency to jump out -of the jaws just before entering the vise jaws or while going -to transfer position in the top guide. A broken pawl sometimes -will catch the line of matrices and prevent it from -passing into the jaws. To renew the front pawl, release the -two small screws that hold the plate and slip the pawl toward -the right. The back pawl can be changed by taking out the -two small screws that hold it in position.</p> - -<p>The first elevator front jaw is equipped with a duplex -rail for the purpose of holding the front lugs of the matrices -in a raised position to cast a line of matrices in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</span> -auxiliary position. This rail is held in position by two -springs which are fastened to the two duplex rail levers. -The rail is automatically retracted when the elevator rises -to the slide guide, by the upper ends of the rail levers being -pressed back by two operating blocks which are assembled -on the adjusting strip of the slide guide. This backward -movement of the rail permits the matrices to drop to -normal position for the transfer.</p> - -<p>If a squirt occurs and the metal gets in around the duplex -rails or on the first elevator jaws, it will prevent the rail -from being retracted. This will prevent the elevator slide -from going high enough for the matrices to be transferred. -Never remove metal from the jaws with a screwdriver or -a piece of steel. A piece of brass rule will answer the purpose -and will not damage the jaws when driving out the -metal.</p> - -<p>The duplex rail sometimes becomes battered or bent -through the carelessness of the operator in sending in tight -lines. The rail can be taken out and smoothed up by taking -the jaws off the slide and removing the plate at the bottom -of the front jaw.</p> - -<p>The back jaw should be examined frequently for burrs -or a sprung jaw. If the jaw becomes sprung outward it will -permit the end matrix to crawl up in the jaws and the -lugs will be sheared or bent as the mold slide comes forward -for the lockup. There should be just enough space between -the jaws for a matrix to pass in without binding, but not -enough to allow the matrix to be raised past the duplex rail, -from lower to auxiliary position. If the jaw is bent inward, -the spaceband can not operate freely. Never pry out on the -jaws with a screw driver when there is a squirt holding the -jaws to the disc of the mold cap, for there is a chance of -bending the back jaw.</p> - -<p>Whenever the jaws are held on the vise cap after a -squirt, always remove the screws from the back jaws, take -off the jaw guard on the vise cap and let the vise down. -This method will prevent springing the jaw because the -back jaw will hang to the squirt when the vise is let down.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">First Elevator Jaw Line Stop</span></h3> - -<p>The first elevator jaw line stop, which prevents the matrices -from twisting or falling out while the line is being -carried to the vise or the top guide, is found in the first -elevator jaw, and is held by a clamp, spring, and nut.</p> - -<p>The outer end of the line stop is cut away so as to clear -the vise jaw, on all models except 1 and K. Always have -the cut on the under side; if reversed it would strike on the -vise jaw and not allow the first elevator to descend the full -distance.</p> - -<p>The inner end of the line stop should set against the -first matrix on the left end of the line after the line has been -justified. Do not set the clamp lock-nut tight or it will not -allow the line stop to move when changing to a longer -measure.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="FIRST_ELEVATOR_SLIDE_CONNECTING_LINK">FIRST ELEVATOR SLIDE CONNECTING LINK</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The first elevator slide connecting link is the connection -between the first elevator slide and the first elevator lever, -and is fastened to the slide by a pin extending through an -eyebolt and to the first elevator lever by a wing pin extending -through an eyebolt.</p> - -<p>The first elevator jaws should not be more than <span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>64</sub></span> of -an inch lower than the grooves in the delivery channel. -Make this adjustment by turning the connecting link casing.</p> - -<p>The connecting link is constructed of a casing or tube, -inside of which is a compression spring. This spring is -held in place at the bottom by a movable nut inside of the -lower end of the casing, and by a screw cap at the top of -the casing. The movable nut has a slot on one side which -fits over a pin in the casing. This prevents the nut from -turning except when the casing is turned. The casing also -has a screw cap on the lower end, through which an eyebolt -passes. The lower eyebolt screws into the movable nut -inside the casing, against which the spring rests. At the -top of the casing is another eyebolt which screws into the -top screw cap.</p> - -<p>The upper eyebolt is ¾ of an inch from the inner edge -of the hole to the shoulder of the upper cap, and the lower<span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</span> -eyebolt <span class="xs"><sup>13</sup>/<sub>16</sub></span> of an inch from the inner edge of the hole to -the shoulder of the bushing when applied to the machine, -making 8½ inches from center to center of the holes in -the eyebolts. The lower eyebolt is <span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>16</sub></span> of an inch longer -than the upper eyebolt. As the upper eyebolt has a left-hand -thread and the lower eyebolt a right-hand thread, the lower -eyebolt still remains <span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>16</sub></span> of an inch longer than the upper -eyebolt, and still retains the same compression on the -spring when it becomes necessary to turn the connecting -link a trifle to raise or lower the elevator.</p> - -<p>The alignment of the matrices takes place as the elevator -raises the lugs of the matrices up against the aligning -groove of the mold. By the lower eyebolt passing -through the clearance hole in the screw cap when the alignment -takes place, the lower nut is lifted against the spring -inside the casing and the spring compresses just enough -to align the lugs of the matrices in the groove of the mold. -This holds the line against the mold by spring tension. If -the connecting link was a solid piece, when the line was -raised to the mold it would lock so tight that in a short time -the lugs would be worn, causing a bad alignment of the matrices. -The object of the spring inside the casing is to prevent -this wear. Having the lower eyebolt <span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>16</sub></span> of an inch longer -than the upper, the correct compression of the spring is -given. The elevator, when it raises from the vise for alignment -with no matrices, is raised nearly ⅓ of an inch. Notice -the difference with a line of matrices in the elevator. It -is held at the mold by the lugs of the matrices, the compression -spring in the link taking up the extra motion -of the first elevator lever.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Auxiliary Lever</span></h3> - -<p>The distance from center to center of the holes should -measure 8½ inches when the link has been properly adjusted. -If the first elevator jaws do not come within <span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>64</sub></span> -of an inch of aligning with delivery slide channel after the -connecting link has been adjusted and applied to the machine, -adjust the slide with the auxiliary lever. This is necessary -to compensate for wear on the face of cam No. 1 -and the auxiliary lever roller. By loosening the connecting<span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</span> -screw in the side of the auxiliary lever, make the adjustment -by turning the adjusting screw in the front side of -the auxiliary lever. Never try to make this adjustment -with the connecting screw tight, as the lug of the auxiliary -lever is liable to be broken.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="THE_SECOND_ELEVATOR">THE SECOND ELEVATOR</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The second elevator consists of two levers, connected by -a bolt and cushion spring. The short lever carries a roller -which operates on cam No. 6. The short lever operates the -long lever, to carry the matrices from the first elevator to -the distributor box. On the outer end of the second elevator -lever is the bar plate and second elevator bar. The matrices -are held on this bar by their combination teeth. On the -right-hand end of the second elevator bar plate is a stop -pawl. The stop pawl prevents the matrices being pushed too -far to the right during the transfer from the first elevator -to the second elevator, and keeps the matrices from striking -the distributor box bar when the second elevator is being -raised to its upper position.</p> - -<p>When the elevator is at transfer point, the roller should -be free of the cam. Adjust by the nut on the connecting bolt -which connects the two levers. This is to assure the elevator -seating in its proper position on the transfer channel to -receive the line of matrices from the first elevator. The -machine should be in normal position, the automatic stopping -pawl resting on the upper stopping lever, when making -this adjustment. With the machine in normal position, -adjust so the connecting bolt is free to turn, with no end -play between the head of the bolt and the adjusting nut. -When this adjustment is properly made, and the machine -is turned to transfer position, the roller will be free of the -cam. When in normal position the second elevator bar will -align with the bar of the distributor box. Unless the connecting -bolt is free to turn when the machine is in normal -position, the second elevator will not be properly seated -in the distributor shifter guide, and the second elevator -and distributor box bars will not align.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Second Elevator Starting Spring</span></h3> - -<p>Located just inside the machine frame, near cam No. 2, -and connected to the short lever of the second elevator, is -the second elevator starting spring and rod. When the -second elevator is at transfer point the adjusting nut should -touch the spring. The spring is to start the elevator down -and prevent sticking at the distributor.</p> - -<p>The most tension is on the spring when the machine is -at normal position and as the cam revolves, the second elevator -cam lever will get its proper movement when going to -transfer position. The spring also causes a steady movement -of the second elevator lever when going from transfer to -normal position. This adjustment has become obsolete on -the new machines.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Second Elevator Safety Catch</span></h3> - -<p>On the end of the second elevator lever, near cam No. 10, -either beneath or at the back side of the shaft, is a projection -for the purpose of preventing the elevator from falling -and being damaged should anything catch or hold the -lever momentarily from following the cam. This projection -engages with a safety pawl on the machine frame. This pawl -must be released before the lever roller can rest on the cam. -When the elevator descends at its regular time, the safety -catch is held open by a raised piece on the surface of cam -No. 10.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="MAIN_CAMS">MAIN CAMS</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The main cams control the movements of the various -levers of the machine and their operations are dependent on -these cams.</p> - -<p>The assembling and distributing mechanisms alone are -independent of the main cams.</p> - -<p>Standing at the rear of the machine and counting from -the right, the cams have the following action: Cam No. 1 is -the first elevator cam. This cam operates the first elevator -slide, through the auxiliary and first elevator levers, by -means of a connection made by a connecting link. This -cam lowers the first elevator slide and jaws with the matrix<span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</span> -line to the mold and then lifts it to the intermediate channel -for the transfer to the second elevator bar. The elevator -has five changes of position in the casting of the line.</p> - -<p>The second is the distributor shifter cam. This cam is -inside the frame of the machine, under cam No. 3, and to -which it is fastened with two dowel pins and a screw. This -cam operates the distributor shifter for transferring the -matrices from the second elevator bar to the distributor box -and forcing the matrix line against the matrix lift. This -action is produced by a rider assembled in the distributor -shifter hub which is fastened by a shaft to the mold gear -arm. The rider is brought up against the face of this cam -by a coil spring which is fastened to the lower end of the -hub and to the frame of the machine. Assembled with the -rider in the hub is a cushion spring that takes care of any -undue strain that might occur in the action of the cams.</p> - -<p>The third is the mold turning cam. The two gear segments -attached to this cam impart rotation to the mold turning -pinion which in turn revolves the mold disk. The short -segment engages the pinion and turns the disk one-quarter -revolution, bringing the mold in position to receive the line -of matrices. The long segment in turn brings the disk and -mold to ejecting position, completing the revolution of the -cams.</p> - -<p>The fourth (a part of cam No. 3) is the vise closing and -second justification cam. The lever, directly under this cam, -has a roller that follows the contour of the cam. A heavy -coil spring beneath the lever presses the roller against the -cam. The lever is forked at the front end and actuates the -vise closing mechanism, and also acts with the justification -lever in making the second justification.</p> - -<p>The fifth is the justification lever cam. The lever directly -under this cam has a roller that follows the contour of the -cam. The heavy coil spring beneath the lever presses the -roller against the contour of this cam, justifying the line of -matrices by forcing the spacing mechanism against the -spacebands. This lever in its downward motion operates the -slug lever.</p> - -<p>The sixth (a part of cam No. 5) is the second elevator -cam, which operates the second elevator arm by means of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</span> -a roller following the contour of this cam. This arm, to -which the lever is fastened, lowers the second elevator to -receive the line of matrices at the transfer position and -then raises them to the distributor box.</p> - -<p>The seventh is the pot pump cam and operates the pump -lever. There is a roller on this lever resting against the face -of the cam. This lever forces the metal into the mold cell -as the cam revolves to the low portion. The lever is forced -down by a strong spring. The new style pot pump lever is -connected to its shaft and has a lever extending into the -column. It is pulled downward by a stiff coil spring.</p> - -<p>The eighth is the pot cam, which acts on the pot lever, -forcing the mouth of the pot forward against the mold. -There are two shoes on this cam. The first or short shoe -is to cause the face alignment; the second or long shoe is to -lock the pot firmly against the mold before the slug is cast. -A roller is carried in the pot lever and follows the contour of -this cam and is the medium through which the above lockup -is accomplished.</p> - -<p>The ninth is the mold slide cam and driving gear. The -right side of this gear is channeled out, and carries the mold -slide lever roller which operates the mold slide to advance -the mold disk to a position in which the lugs of the matrices -are held in the groove of the mold for alignment. It also -returns the mold disk after the line has been cast, advances -it again to ejecting position, and returns it after the slug is -ejected. This gear also carries the pot return cam, which -withdraws the pot from the mold after the cast. It also -carries the ejector cam which engages the pawl on the ejector -lever and moves it forward, ejecting the slug from the -mold.</p> - -<p>The tenth cam operates the delivery slide and transfer -cam roller arms and causes these two parts to return to -normal position after their respective movements. The -delivery slide cam roller rotates on the outer surface, while -the transfer slide cam roller acts on the inner surface. This -cam also retracts the ejector lever after the slug has been -ejected. The automatic safety and stopping pawls are attached -to this cam. They are operated by the transfer slide -and the delivery slide rollers. This cam really consists of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</span> -two parts in one, the outer cam controlling the return of the -delivery slide and the inner one controlling the return of -the transfer slide lever.</p> - -<p>The cams are all fastened together by four long bolts extending -from cam No. 2 and ending at cam No. 9. They are -all keyed to the main shaft and held in place by a set screw -under cam No. 7. The cams can be shifted a little sidewise -but should set against a collar on the left side of the main -shaft under cam No. 2. Cam No. 10 is held in place by a key -on the shaft and a set nut and is kept from working toward -the left by a locating piece fastened to the main shaft.</p> - -<p>The cams should be kept clean to prevent undue wear. -Under ordinary conditions, the cams should be cleaned once -each week. This may be accomplished by locking the controlling -lever out so the cams will continue to rotate. Then -hold a rag against the surface of the cam. A small amount -of a mixture of gasoline and kerosene on the rag will help -to cut all dirt and grit loose from the cams, and leave the -surface in good condition and reduce the wear. Cams -allowed to run without being cleaned will wear very rapidly -and soon cause much trouble and expense.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="FIRST_ELEVATOR_SLIDE_GUIDE">FIRST ELEVATOR SLIDE GUIDE</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The first elevator slide guide contains the intermediate -bar and pawl (assembled), adjusting screws for the same, -first elevator jaw duplex rail operating blocks, and the elevator -transfer slide releasing lever.</p> - -<p>The height of the intermediate bar and pawl is adjusted -by the two small screws that pass through the top and touch -the bar. The purpose of the bar and pawl is to push down -any spacebands that may not have dropped to normal position -as the line is carried from casting position to the -transfer. If the pawl was set too high, the spacebands would -strike the second elevator bar, and wear the lower rail.</p> - -<p>The bar should be set so that when the second elevator -is seated at transfer position, the pawl, when raised to its -highest point, will be in line with the bottom of the second -elevator bar. This adjustment is made with the two screws -that pass through the slide guide and touch the intermediate -bar.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</span></p> - -<p>It is also necessary for both ends of the intermediate bar -to be the same height. After adjusting the pawl, turn the -machine until the transfer slide finger has entered the channel; -lay a six-inch scale flat on the first elevator jaws in line -with the bar, but clearing the pawl. Raise the first elevator -slide by hand until the scale touches the bar. Adjust the bar -horizontal with the scale by the same two screws that pass -through top of the slide guide.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Duplex Rail Operating Blocks</span></h3> - -<p>The first elevator jaw duplex rail operating blocks are -fastened to the slide guide adjusting strip and have a limited -adjustment, but when they are worn so they will not operate -the rail properly, they should be renewed.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Releasing Lever</span></h3> - -<p>The releasing lever is for the purpose of preventing the -transfer of a line in case the second elevator does not descend -or seat properly. The adjusting screw in the side of the -second elevator lever should raise the left end of the releasing -lever <span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>32</sub></span> of an inch above the block on the transfer slide -when the second elevator is seated in transfer position.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="TRANSFER_SLIDE">TRANSFER SLIDE</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The transfer slide gets its motion from the transfer -lever to which it is connected by means of a link.</p> - -<p>The transfer lever gets its action from the split transfer -cam lever and roller, which are held against cam No. 10 by -a spring in the column.</p> - -<p>The slide should be adjusted to allow 5<span class="xs"><sup>9</sup>/<sub>16</sub></span> inches from -the intermediate channel to slide finger. (Allow one inch -more on 36-em machines). This adjustment should be made -with the machine in normal position. Loosen the two screws -on the split lever, move the slide finger 5<span class="xs"><sup>9</sup>/<sub>16</sub></span> inches from the -channel, and hold; then move the roller against the cam and -tighten the screws. This adjustment is necessary so that -a 30-em line, which measures 5 inches, will clear the transfer -slide finger <span class="xs"><sup>5</sup>/<sub>32</sub></span> of an inch. The last matrix is carried <span class="xs"><sup>13</sup>/<sub>32</sub></span> -of an inch inside the first elevator jaws. There will be<span class="pagenum" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</span> -a clearance of <span class="xs"><sup>5</sup>/<sub>32</sub></span> of an inch from the first matrix and -the transfer slide finger when the machine is in transfer -position. Be sure the transfer finger is not bent when -measuring this distance.</p> - -<p>The cut in the slide finger should be flush with the left -end of the second elevator bar plate, when it has transferred -the line to the second elevator. This adjustment is made by -the screw in the automatic safety pawl, which comes in contact -with the buffer, on cam No. 10.</p> - -<p>With the machine in transfer position, the cam lever -roller is against the buffer in cam No. 10. The adjusting -screw in the automatic safety pawl, being against the inner -end of buffer, regulates the distance between the cut in the -finger and second elevator bar plate. This adjustment, when -properly made, insures the line being moved from the first -to the second elevator. Turning the adjusting screw to the -right increases the distance between the slide finger and the -bar plate. Turning to the left decreases it.</p> - -<p>The horizontal screw in the transfer slide should bank -against the buffer in the spaceband lever to allow ⅛ of an -inch between the cut in the slide finger and the spaceband -lever pawl when the slide finger and spaceband lever pawl -are at their closest point during transfer.</p> - -<p>After the line has been transferred to the second elevator -the spacebands, not having combinations, remain in the -transfer channels and must be moved under the spaceband -lever pawl so they can be returned to spaceband box. When -the transfer cam lever roller is at the lowest part of cam -No. 10, the adjusting screw in transfer slide, coming in contact -with the buffer in the spaceband lever, regulates the -distance between the cut in the slide finger and the bottom -of the slot in the spaceband lever pawl.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="SPACEBAND_LEVER">SPACEBAND LEVER</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The spaceband lever gets its motion from the transfer -lever, through a turnbuckle which connects the transfer -lever and the spaceband lever. The purpose of this form of -coupling, so threaded that when connecting the two levers -it may be turned to regulate the length of the connected -parts, is to adjust the spaceband lever so the spaceband lever<span class="pagenum" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</span> -pawl will pass the highest point of the spaceband box rails, -properly bringing the spacebands into the box.</p> - -<p>Before making the spaceband lever adjustment, make -sure that the transfer slide finger is properly adjusted. Then -place the machine in normal position.</p> - -<p>Adjust the turnbuckle so the hook of the pawl passes to -the right of the highest point of the spaceband box rails -not more than <span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>16</sub></span> of an inch. If there is too much space between -the end of the pawl and the latch on the spaceband -box, which is used as a lock, when recasting 30 ems the slide -finger would move to the right against the line and force the -matrix from the inner end of the first elevator before the -pawl would come in contact with the latch. If the slide adjustments -are properly made, the turning of the turnbuckle -will have no effect in the adjustment of the slide finger.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Spaceband Lever Pawl</span></h3> - -<p>The spaceband pawl is fastened to the spaceband lever -by a pivot pin and held in place by a bushing, which fits -over the pin. The screw which clamps the bushing to the pin -extends downward through the top of the lever. The pawl -pulls the spacebands back into the box after the transfer. -The pawl should ride freely in the transfer channel, its -bearing being a pin screwed into the back side of the pawl. -This pin rides on the top of the transfer channel. The sidewise -adjustment of the pawl is made by loosening the screw -in the top of the transfer lever and allowing the machine to -turn over for a few lines, the pawl thus seating itself. The -spaceband pawl is held down on the transfer channel by a -small spring. The tension of this spring should be strong -enough to hold the spacebands from slipping from under the -pawl.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="MOLD_SLIDE">MOLD SLIDE</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The mold slide, which carries the mold disk and molds, -moves in a slideway at the right of the metal pot and gets -its action from cam No. 9, and the mold cam lever on which -are assembled two rollers. One roller is fastened to the lever -by a screw and a washer, and is seated in a depression in -the rear end of the mold slide connecting the mold slide with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</span> -cam No. 9. The other roller has as its bearing an adjustable -eccentric pin fastened to the mold cam lever, and follows -the contour of the cam in the right side of cam No. 9.</p> - -<p>When a line of matrices is in position in front of the -mold, the mold slide advances so that the lugs of the matrices -will enter the aligning grooves of the mold. This -position is held until the spacebands are driven up for justification -and the line is raised for alignment. The slide then -comes forward a second time for final lockup just as the -metal pot locks against the back of the mold.</p> - -<p>When the mold slide comes forward the first time there -should be .010 of an inch space between the mold and the -vise jaws or the line. This space between the mold and the -jaws is regulated by the eccentric pin in the mold cam lever -roller, and allows the proper justification and alignment of -the matrices before the final lockup.</p> - -<p>During the alignment and during the first justification, -the matrices must be perfectly free, so that they may readjust -themselves sidewise in the line. Hence the importance -of preventing the mold from pressing forward against -the matrices and spacebands at its first movement.</p> - -<p>If the slide advances too far forward the aligning groove -of the mold would engage the lugs of the matrices before the -first elevator jaws were seated properly on the vise cap, -shearing the lugs of the matrices. Or if the mold was forced -to lockup tight against the line, it would prevent justifying -properly, causing hair lines to show between the matrices or -a squirt on the left-hand end. If there is too much space between -the mold and the jaws, when the first elevator raises -for alignment, the lugs of the matrices not being in the -aligning groove, would permit the line of matrices to raise -to the upper aligning groove of the mold, causing the line of -matrices to be cast on the raised position; or if the aligning -groove did not advance close to hold the lugs, there would -be a small squirt.</p> - -<p>The .010 of an inch adjustment also affects the lockup of -the slide at ejecting position. If there is a trifle more space -between the mold and the line than .010 of an inch, the mold -will not seat against the banking blocks at ejecting point.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</span> -This will sometimes allow the slug to twist slightly, causing -it to be trimmed crooked.</p> - -<p>To test this adjustment: Turn the casting mechanism -until the first elevator jaws are resting on the vise cap; -place a pig of metal under the head of the slide and on top -of the vise automatic stop rod; fold a piece of newspaper -three thicknesses, or proof paper until it measures about -.010 of an inch; close the vise jaws; place the paper between -the mold and the vise jaws; turn the machine by hand until -the metal pot is just ready to move forward; pull up on the -paper, which should bind a trifle as it is being withdrawn. -If the paper does not bind or binds too tight it would show -that the slide is out of adjustment.</p> - -<p>To make the slide adjustment, place the paper between -the jaws and the mold as in the test. Change the position of -the mold slide by moving the eccentric pin in the mold cam -lever roller so that the paper can be withdrawn, binding just -a trifle. Moving the handle forces the mold slide either -forward or backward, as desired.</p> - -<p>The mold slide moves in the slideway on a gib. There -should be .007 of an inch play between the mold slide and -the gib because the mold slide will expand from the heat of -the metal pot, but by having the above mentioned play, it will -not bind, and will slide in and out freely.</p> - -<p>This adjustment is made by the two square head screws -under the gib on which the slide moves. There is no gib -on the late model machines, and consequently no adjustment -for the slideway.</p> - -<p>As the mold slide advances, it slides up on the locking -stud blocks on the vise, raising the slide approximately .007 -of an inch. The screw beneath the mold disk guide on the -mold gear arm should have a little clearance above it when -the slide is forward on the locking stud blocks. There should -be play enough to slip a sheet of paper between the screw -and the guide when the mold disk is forward on the locking -studs.</p> - -<p>To remove a mold slide: Lower the vise to second position, -disconnect the mold slide, and take out the ejector lever -link. Pull forward on the slide and disk, assembled, and -lift out.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="MOLD_DISK_LOCKING_STUDS_AND_BLOCKS">MOLD DISK LOCKING STUDS AND BLOCKS</h2> -</div> - - -<p>After the mold disk makes the one-quarter and three-quarter -revolutions, the mold slide advances and the mold -disk locking studs enter the locking stud blocks which are -on the vise. This keeps the disk in position until the slug -has been cast or ejected, as the case may be.</p> - -<p>On old style machines the bushings are in the disk, and -the studs are in the blocks. On all the new machines the -studs are in the disk and each bushing and block is made in -one piece. The blocks are held to the vise by the screws and -dowel pins that pass through the front of the vise and screw -into the blocks. The left-hand stud block on the newer -models is loose sidewise, which permits the studs to enter -the stud blocks with the minimum amount of wear to the -parts.</p> - -<p>The stud blocks can be renewed by taking the old ones -off one at a time and using the remaining block as a guide.</p> - -<p>The studs should be kept lubricated with a little graphite -and grease. Too much will collect on the mold and get to -the matrices.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="EJECTOR_SLIDE">EJECTOR SLIDE</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The ejector slide is connected to the ejector lever, by -means of a link, and is located in the channel cut in the side -of the mold slide. It is operated by the ejector cam, -which comes in contact with the ejector lever pawl. The -cam is held tight to cam No. 9 by means of a screw and dowel -pin. After the ejector lever is brought forward, it is pushed -back into position by cam No. 10 coming in contact with a -projection on the ejector lever. There is a buffer spring -placed on the ejector slide which prevents the slide falling -forward with a sudden jerk after the ejector lever has -passed its center of gravity and the slug has passed the -resistance of the trimming knives. The spring works on -a rod which banks against the ejector blade guide. If this -spring is not functioning, the slug will be thrown out on the -floor.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="EJECTOR_BLADE">EJECTOR BLADE</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The blade is connected to the ejector slide by the pins -that pass through the holes in the blade, the pins being -operated by the springs, throw-out cam, and lever. The blade -pushes the slug out of the mold, between the trimming -knives, into the chase channel.</p> - -<p>When the ejector blade advances to the ejecting position -the front end should come flush with the bracket on the -chase or galley. If it advanced beyond, the slug would be -pushed out of the galley to the floor. If it does not advance -flush, the slug not being pushed all the way out, would be -turned to the right by the slug lever. The adjustment is -made with the screw that passes through the ejector lever -pawl.</p> - -<p>If the blade advances beyond the bracket, turn in the -pawl screw and raise the pawl. The higher the pawl is -raised, the less distance the slug advances.</p> - -<p>On machines that have the inclined galley, adjust blade -to come flush with the bevel on the knife block liner.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="EJECTOR_GUIDE_BLOCK">EJECTOR GUIDE BLOCK</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The outer end of the ejector blade is held in place and -guided by the ejector guide block which sets directly back -of the flange of the mold disk, and is held by two machine -screws passing through each end of the block into the mold -slide. This guide holds the blade in position so it will pass -squarely through the mold. It also helps the buffer spring to -steady the forward motion of the ejector. The point of contact -of the ejector block with the ejector blade is made of -brass and is held against the blade by spring tension.</p> - -<p>The ejector blade guide should be kept free from oil, dirt, -and metal shavings, as these impair the free working of the -guide. The brass strip should be replaced when worn. Loose -screws or a worn brass strip will cause slugs to be thrown -out on the floor.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">To Change an Ejector Blade</span></h3> - -<p>Push in on the starting and stopping lever; let the vise -down to first position; back the machine by pushing back on<span class="pagenum" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</span> -cam No. 1 until the second elevator falls on the safety hook; -turn the mold disk until the slot is in front of the blade; -push the ejector lever forward; remove the blade by reaching -the right-hand in alongside the mold slide and grasp the -releasing lever and draw it towards the front. Change the -blade for the size wanted, and then let machine come to -normal position. Be careful not to get a blade wider than -the slug to be cast or there is danger of damaging the liners, -or the mold will be damaged. A good plan is always to check -up on the ejector blade after changing the liners.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="UNIVERSAL_EJECTOR">UNIVERSAL EJECTOR</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The universal ejector consists of a series of blades, 5-points -in thickness, in 2-em units; as a rule the first, or -lower blade is a 4-em, and then in 2-em units up to 30-ems -pica. These unit blades move between plates, which brace -them firmly on both sides, making them rigid and preventing -the blade from bending.</p> - -<p>The back end of the unit blades are fastened to ejector -blade links that move in grooves cut lengthwise of the slide. -There is a link for each unit blade and they terminate at -the back end of the mold slide in front of a groove milled -across the slide. A movable controller bar works in a groove -in the ejector slide, moving up or down in the groove, back -of a lug on each of the blade links. When the ejector lever -forces the ejector slide forward, the controller bar in the -groove of the slide comes against the lugs of the ejector -links forcing the blades forward through the mold.</p> - -<p>The blades are withdrawn by a lug on the ejector slide -coming in contact with the lugs on the links.</p> - -<p>When desiring to change the length of the blade to be -used, move the ejector blade controlling lever handle up or -down. This handle is situated below the starting and stopping -lever and is connected to the controller bar by a screw -link. Also connected to this handle is a pica gauge which -operates in a groove in the delivery channel.</p> - -<p>Moving the handle up or down engages less or more -blades, the length being indicated on the pica gauge in the -delivery channel.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</span></p> - -<p>To remove the mold slide on machines which have a universal -ejector, lower the vise to second position, set the ejector -at 10 or 12 ems, take out the ejector blade controller link -which screws into the controller link lift. This will permit -the controller bar to drop out. Disconnect the mold slide and -take out the ejector lever link. If the machine is connected -up with the water for cooling the molds, it will be necessary -to disconnect the hose before taking out the slide.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Removing a Stuck Slug</span></h3> - -<p>When there is a slug stuck in the mold, allow the machine -to come to normal by backing the machine sufficiently -to allow the ejector lever pawl to be raised, draw back on the -ejector lever until the pawl clears the ejector cam. Pull out -the starting lever allowing the machine to come to normal. -Open the vise and remove the slug from the mold by loosening -the mold cap screws. Do not drive a stuck slug out with -the ejector blade.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="MOLD_KNIFE">MOLD KNIFE</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The mold or back knife trims the base of the slug and is -fastened to the mold slide arm, back of the mold disk. It is -placed at an angle of about 45 degrees and is held by two -washers and two round-head screws which pass through the -slotted holes of the knife. It is also held by two adjusting -screws that set against the base so that the knife will set -squarely and press lightly against the mold as the disk is -turned from casting to the ejecting position. As the mold -passes in front of the knife, the slug should be trimmed -type-high, which is .918 of an inch.</p> - -<p>The front of the mold disk, when turning, must be bearing -against the mold disk guide so as to keep the mold -against the knife while the slug is being trimmed. If the -mold disk guide does not set snugly against the disk, the -disk will spring away from the knife and the slug will be -higher on one end than the other. The guide is adjusted -by loosening the screw which holds it to the mold slide and -moving it snugly against the mold disk. Do not set the guide -tight enough to bind and prevent the free turning of the -disk.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</span></p> - -<p>It sometimes happens that a disk will bind at one or -more places as it is being turned. This is due to the disk -becoming warped from heat or some other cause. If it is -only a slight bind it will not interfere with the adjustment.</p> - -<p>Whenever it is necessary to put on a new or resharpened -mold knife, or to adjust it, be sure the mold disk guide is -bearing against the rim of the mold disk. It is always better -to remove the guide and clean it as it must be perfectly -clean when it seats against the disk. Always have the knife -away from the mold when seating the guide. Tighten the -hexagon head screw slightly and then tap the guide until a -slight pressure against the disk is secured. Turn the disk -by hand until an even pressure has been secured and then -tighten the hexagon head nut tight.</p> - -<p>Place the mold knife on the knife seat; be sure the seat -is clean, for the least particle of dirt or metal will make it -more difficult to make the adjustment. Also the bottom of -the mold must be perfectly clean and free from all metal. -Set the knife square with, but not quite touching the mold. -Tighten down on the two round-head screws, then adjust -with the two screws under the bottom of knife so that mold -will turn without binding. The left-hand end of the knife -trims the ends of the slugs; the center of the knife trims -the center of the slugs. Avoid excessive pressure on either -side as the knife is so shaped that the sharp edge should -just touch the mold.</p> - -<p>After making sure that the guide block and the knife are -properly set, cover the back of the mold with a thin coating -of red lead; turn the disk and mold until the mold passes the -knife. If the knife is adjusted properly, it should scrape -the lead from the mold. It is not always an easy matter to -set a mold knife, taking considerable patience and care -because the knife must be set to thousandths of an inch. -Cast a slug and measure with the micrometers to make sure -the slug is trimmed to the proper height. When measuring -the slug for height with micrometers, use a slug 15 picas in -length, or one that fills half of the capacity of the mold. Have -the regular letter characters cast on the slug.</p> - -<p>Metal will adhere to the bottom of the mold if the mold -knife is not sharp or properly adjusted. To keep a perfect<span class="pagenum" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</span> -lockup the bottom of the mold must be kept clean. Mold -knives can be resharpened, but as they are shaped to set -just so the edge of the knife touches the mold and must -not vary, for even .001 of an inch will spoil the adjustment, -they should be shipped to the nearest agency to be resharpened.</p> - -<p>Be sure the knife is at fault before starting to adjust it.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Mold Banking Strips</span></h3> - -<p>The mold banking strips are fastened on the vise, one -above the parallel knives and the other one below the bottom -end of the knives. These strips prevent the mold from coming -in contact with the knives and holds the disk rigid when -ejecting the slug, assisting the knives in trimming the slug -parallel. The mold slide should advance the proper distance -so the mold will just bank against the banking strips when -forward for ejecting the slug.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="KNIFE_BLOCK">KNIFE BLOCK</h2> -</div> - - -<p>At the present time there are two styles of knife blocks -in common use, namely: The wedge adjustment block, which -allows for a range from 5 to 12 points, inclusive; and the -universal knife block which allows for a range from 5 to 36 -points, inclusive. These blocks are fastened to the vise frame -by two hexagon head machine screws and held rigid by four -dowel pins. To remove the block it is only necessary to -take out the two machine screws and work the block out -of the dowel pin holes. A certain amount of care is necessary -not to drop the block or bend the pins.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Trimming Knives</span></h3> - -<p>The purpose of the trimming knives is to trim the slugs -to the proper size and the sides parallel.</p> - -<p>The measurement of a type-founders point is .0138-⅓ of -an inch. The measurement of a linotype point is .014 of -an inch.</p> - -<p>The point unit now used on the matrices is the one used -by the type-founders. The linotype point is still being used -when adjusting the trimming knives. A 10-point slug, when<span class="pagenum" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</span> -trimmed correctly, should measure .140 of an inch, or 10 -times .014 of an inch.</p> - -<p>The left-hand knife trims the overhang from the smooth -side of the slug and is held to the vise by two square head -screws that pass through the front, and is adjusted by two -screws, at the top and bottom of the knife block and bearing -against the knife. This knife should be adjusted to be in -line with the left side of the mold; it is only intended to -remove the fins which form at the top of the slug. It is not -intended to remove metal from the smooth side of the slug.</p> - -<p>If the left-hand knife does not trim the overhang off -the slug, it will cause the slugs to be thicker at the top than -at the bottom, and be off their feet. This will cause trouble -in the lockup of the form, the columns having a tendency to -raise up in the center.</p> - -<p>Always loosen the two screws which hold the knife to -the vise when making any adjustment of the left-hand knife. -Turning in on the adjusting screws without loosening the -two lock screws may cause the knife to spring and trim the -slugs more in the center than on the ends.</p> - -<p>The right-hand knife trims the slug to thickness and is -held to the slide bracket on the universal knife block, by two -round head screws. It is forced to the right against the -adjusting screws by two springs. The screws that hold the -knife to the bracket should be loose when moving the adjusting -screws outward, as the spring should force the knife -against the adjusting screws in this movement. It is not -necessary to release the screws that hold the knife to the -bracket when turning the screws inward as the screws -are forced against the knife in this adjustment.</p> - -<p>The screws in the sector are set to step from one point -size to another and should not be changed except when -necessary to trim any body size to a special thickness.</p> - -<p>Beneath the bracket to which the knife is fastened are -two spiral springs that force the bracket and knob button -against the sector screws. Moving the lever operates the -sector, and the screw coming in contact with the button -on the slide causes the knife to move in or out one point or -as many as the lever is moved. When casting a 10-point -slug, have the pointer on figure 10.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</span></p> - -<p>After having the knives adjusted to trim one size slug, -the knife block is constructed so as to trim all others, by -merely moving the handle on the knife block. When changing -the universal knife block, be sure that one of the lever -detent pins has entered the hole in the sector.</p> - -<p>To adjust the trimming knives, first set the right-hand -knife by turning the two adjusting screws that are in the -knife block slide bracket and touching the side of the knife, -so it will trim the ribs of a slug; then adjust the knife that -trims the overhang from the smooth side of the slug; then -re-adjust the right-hand knife to thickness and parallel. Do -not attempt to adjust the knife that trims the overhang -from the smooth side of the slug unless the right-hand knife -is trimming the ribs.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Wedge Style Knife Block</span></h3> - -<p>The wedge style knife block is the old style quick-change -block and is held to the vise in the same manner as the -universal block. The left-hand knife is mounted and adjusted -the same as with the universal block. The right-hand -knife is held to the block by two shoulder screws which -pass through the two friction springs and washers from -the front of the block. This assembly holds the knife tight -against the block, but permits the two strong springs to -force the knife against the wedge.</p> - -<p>The wedge is operated by a small hand lever and is -graduated from 5 to 12 points, inclusive. By pulling the -lever up or down the wedge moves and the knife follows -the wedge.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Knife, Right Hand, Spring Plate</span></h3> - -<p>There is a steel plate assembled in the right side of the -knife block which keeps the slugs upright as they travel -through the knife block into the chase. This plate is -called the knife spring plate and is held in place by two lugs -at the back of the plate extending into the base of the right-hand -knife. It is forced toward the left by a flat bronze -spring, called the spring plate spring. There should be just -enough tension on this spring to force the plate up against -the outgoing slug with an even pressure so the slug will be<span class="pagenum" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</span> -held upright as it is being pushed into the chase by the -ejector blade. The flat spring is so shaped that the ends -fit behind rivet heads, to hold the plate in place. If the spring -becomes bent so it will not stay behind the rivets, the lugs -will work out of their seat and the gate will obstruct the -passageway of the slug. This will oftentimes smash the -face of the slugs.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Facts and Suggestions About Trimming Knives</span></h3> - -<p>The right-hand knife must be adjusted so that its edge -is exactly parallel with the left-hand knife in order to make -the slug of equal thickness throughout its entire length. -The faces of the two knives separate slightly toward the -front of the machine, which allows the slug to pass freely -forward from the cutting edges. The right-hand knife must -be shaped so there is a cutting edge of about <span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>64</sub></span> of an inch -on the side that stands next to the slug. By having this edge -the “gouging” of the knife into the slug is prevented, and -slugs are trimmed to equal thickness at the top and bottom. -This cutting edge must never be more than <span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>64</sub></span> of an inch.</p> - -<p>Always remember that the knives can be set to trim the -slugs perfectly from one point-size to another with accuracy, -but it requires patience, as the knives must be adjusted to -a thousandth part of an inch.</p> - -<p>Keep the knife block and the knives clean. The seat of -the knives should also be clean. It will be impossible to get -an accurate adjustment if dirt or gum interferes with the -movement of the knives.</p> - -<p>The trimming knives should have exceedingly sharp or -thin edges to work satisfactorily. If the knives become very -dull or the cutting edge rounded or nicked, they should be -taken off the machine and reground. Send them to the nearest -agency as they are equipped with grinders and other fixtures -to do this regrinding and maintain the correct angles -and shape of the knives. Always send both the right-hand -and left-hand knives, as they should be reground in pairs, -and the cutting edges should exactly match each other in -order to obtain good results.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</span></p> - -<p>Use a full measure slug when adjusting the trimming -knives. Cast a full line of capital letters on the slug and -hold the matrices for recast. Measure the slug on the ribs -at the top and near the bottom. The slug should measure -the same at the top edge and near the bottom if the knife -which trims the smooth side is correctly set. The slug should -measure the same at the top edge of both ends if the knife -which trims the rib side of the slug is correctly set.</p> - -<p>Before setting the trimming knives, make sure that the -mold is properly seated in the mold disk and that there is -no metal between the liners and the mold.</p> - -<p>When the trimming knives become dull it is practically -impossible to set them to trim accurately. Even when they -are set nearly accurate, they will hold the adjustment only -a short time.</p> - -<p>Dull knives also cause trouble by making it difficult to -eject the slug. This will often cause the clutch to slip.</p> - -<p>When a long slug measures thicker or thinner at the -ends than in the center, it is usually due to dull knives, but -may be caused by the knives being forced in a twist or -strain by the adjusting screws or some foreign substance -behind the knives.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="KNIFE_WIPER">KNIFE WIPER</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The knife wiper is a very important part of the Linotype. -Its function is to wipe the burrs or slug trimmings -from the face of the parallel knives after a slug is ejected. -If the knife wiper is not working, the face of the line of -type will have an accumulation of shavings from the previous -line on it.</p> - -<p>The knife wiper in use on all machines of very recent -manufacture is operated by a small roller, fastened to a -bracket on the first elevator slide, which comes in contact -with a lever connected to the knife wiper bar. When the -elevator goes from normal to the lower, or casting, position, -the knife wiper bar is forced upward. On the upper end of -the knife wiper bar is a small brass wiper which is forced -upward with the bar. This wiper rubs against the trimming -knives, cleaning them of the metal shavings which may have -lodged from the previous slug trimmed.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</span></p> - -<p>There are no adjustments on this type of wiper, except -to have the brass lightly touching the knives.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Old Style Knife Wiper</span></h3> - -<p>There are quite a number of the old style knife wipers -still in use. This knife wiper is operated by a latch rod on -the first elevator lever. This rod comes in contact with a -latch on the knife wiper bar, on its downward stroke, and -pushes the bar upward by coming in contact with the -bottom of wiper bar on the upward stroke of the first -elevator lever. The wiper bar should be free to move up -and down in the guides, moving the brass wiper lightly -over the face of the trimming knives. On the upper part of -the wiper bar are two pins which prevent the bar from -going too far below the knives and too high above them. A -flat spring riding over the top of the bar holds it to the -bottom of the guide so the brass wiper can operate properly.</p> - -<p>The brass wiper is held to the bar with two flat head -screws, and the constant passing of the wiper over the face -of the sharp knives soon wears the wiper so it will break -off. A new wiper must be applied or the shavings will hang -to the slugs.</p> - -<p>Never have the wiper bearing too hard on the face of -the knife as the constant rubbing up and down will dull -the trimming edge of the knives and wear the wiper in a -short time.</p> - -<p>Keep the knife wiper in good working condition all the -time and save proofreader’s marks.</p> - -<p>Do not forget that the knife wiper is operated by the -first elevator slide. Therefore anything that prevents the -free action of the wiper will interfere with the movement -of the first elevator.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="MOLD_TURNING_CAM_SQUARE_BLOCK_AND_PINION">MOLD TURNING CAM, SQUARE BLOCK, AND PINION</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The mold turning cam, known as cam No. 3, has attached -to its side the long and short gear segments which impart -rotation to the mold turning pinion and square block as the -cam revolves. The square block and pinion are found on -the inside of the mold gear arm. The gear segments on the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</span> -mold turning cam turns the pinion, the pinion turns the mold -turning shaft, and the mold turning shaft turns the mold -disk, through the mold disk pinion which meshes with the -mold disk. The short segment turns the mold disk one-quarter -of a revolution so as to bring the mold disk into -casting position. The long segment turns the disk three-quarters -of a revolution, bringing the mold and disk in -ejecting position. The mold disk makes one complete revolution -in one revolution of the cams.</p> - -<p>When the disk makes one-quarter revolution, it is advanced -so as to lock the stud block on the vise with the studs -on the mold disk, and the slug is cast; the mold then is -withdrawn and makes a three-quarter revolution, advancing -again and locking to eject the slug. When the mold disk -makes the quarter and three-quarter revolutions, all lost -motion must be taken up by the square block on the pinion. -If there is any lost motion, the studs on the mold disk would -not be parallel with the stud blocks on the vise so that they -could not enter them without coming in contact with the rim -of the stud block.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Adjusting Shoes</span></h3> - -<p>On the mold turning cam are two adjustable steel shoes -for the purpose of taking up the play between the shoes and -the square block when in the casting and ejecting position. -These shoes are adjusted by screwing in on the bushing -screws that extend through the cam and bank against -the shoes. Each shoe is held in place by two machine screws -that extend through the bushing screw into the shoe. -When adjusting the shoes care must be taken to make them -parallel. The distance from the front end of each shoe to the -outside of the cam must be the same as it is from the back -end of the shoe to the outside of the cam. If these shoes are -adjusted wider at the back than at the front they act as -wedges as they go down by the square pinion, and may -break the cam at the weakest point. If a shoe is set too -tight against the square pinion it will break the cam. All -that is necessary is to adjust them so as to take up the lost -motion between the shoes and the square pinion. It is better -to use a micrometer to measure the shoes to make sure they<span class="pagenum" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</span> -are parallel. Allow a trifle lost motion between the square -block and the shoes, because it is better for them to have a -little play than to be too tight and perhaps break the cam.</p> - -<p>The square block and pinion are held in position on the -shaft by a set screw, and there is no adjustment except to -have this screw on the top when the machine is in normal -position. The screw passes through the square block to the -shaft and must enter the spot drilled on the shaft for the -point of the screw so as to hold the pinion tight. On the two -sides of the square block are two steel shoes, which are held -to it by screws. These shoes can be renewed when they become -worn.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="MOLD_DRIVING_SHAFT_FRICTION_CLAMP">MOLD DRIVING SHAFT FRICTION CLAMP</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The object of the friction clamp is to prevent the mold -disk from vibrating when advancing to the casting or ejecting -position, and is found attached to the mold driving shaft -and held by a pin in the mold gear arm. The lost motion in -several pinions from which the mold disk gets its action, -will cause the disk to vibrate when stopping ready to advance -on the vise stud blocks, unless it is held by the clamp -which acts as a brake.</p> - -<p>When the mold disk has made the one-quarter and three-quarter -revolutions it must remain in that position, or the -locking studs, coming in contact with the rims of the stud -block, would wear.</p> - -<p>The friction clamp which overcomes the vibration is -made in two sections, with a leather lining, and connected to -the mold turning shaft. A spring, washer, and lock nut add -to its construction. The pin in the mold gear arm to which -it is also connected prevents it from turning with the shaft. -Do not have more friction than necessary, for if there is too -much, the main clutch could not drive the machine, as the -strong friction on the clamp would overcome the pull of the -clutch spring.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Retiming Mold Gears</span></h3> - -<p>There are various methods of retiming the gears of the -mold disk drive in case it is necessary to pull the disk -forward while the machine is out of normal.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</span></p> - -<p>One method is to observe the position of the mold turning -segments. Remember that the short segment causes the -mold to revolve one-quarter revolution, or from normal to -casting position. The long segment causes the mold to revolve -three-quarters revolution, or from casting to ejecting -position. The mold disk turns counter-clockwise. Place the -gears in mesh so the punch marks on the gears register. -Lock the mold slide in position. The drive pinion makes one -complete revolution for each quarter revolution of the mold -disk, and it goes on the connection pin at any complete revolution. -Hold out on the drive pinion and turn the disk and -drive pinion by hand the distance indicated by the amount of -the segments which have passed the square block drive -pinion. When the connecting pin enters the hole in the drive -pinion, with the mold in the estimated position, the disk -should be in time. Be sure the mold which is being used is -the one which is placed in this position. For example, if -the short segment and half of the long segment have passed -the square block drive pinion, the mold should be turned one-half -the distance from casting to ejection position. To -observe what part of the segment is past the pinion, look -directly underneath the frame of the machine which supports -the mold turning shaft.</p> - -<p>Another method of putting the disk in time is to disregard -the position of the cams, connect the mold slide, and -bring the disk, with the mold that is being used, into ejecting -position. Hold the mold turning pinion away from the pin -that connects it to the shaft, so that the disk will not revolve -as the machine is set in motion. Pull out on the starting and -stopping lever, thus letting the machine run around to normal -position. Be sure that the disk locking studs are parallel -with the stud blocks before starting the machine.</p> - -<p>It is only necessary to let the vise down, disconnect the -mold lever from the slide, and put the disk and drive pinion -in time.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="THE_JUSTIFICATION_LEVERS_AND_VISE">THE JUSTIFICATION LEVERS AND VISE -JUSTIFICATION</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The two justification levers are located under the metal -pot and main cams, extend forward from the back of the -machine, and connect with the vise justification rods. These -levers operate the justification rods and bar, assembled on -the vise, and the vise closing lever. The levers get their -motion from rollers which follow the contour of cams No. -4 and 5, and are held against the cams by two strong springs -in the rear of the machine. The justification bar rests on -top of two rods that are forced up and down by the justification -levers in guides in the frame of the vise. The rods are -connected together by the justification bar and a diagonal -brace rod, the various parts being connected by wing pins. -The function of the justification bar is to drive the spacebands -upward to justify the line just before the line is cast.</p> - -<p>The right-hand lever is called the first justification lever -and is operated by cam No. 5. There are two upward movements -of this lever: The preliminary, which justifies the line -lightly; and the final, which justifies the line tightly for -the cast.</p> - -<p>When the justification lever forces the rods upward for -the first justification, the rod block moves upward at a slight -angle, striking the spaceband at the right-hand end of the -line first, and the others in quick succession. This action is -so rapid that all the spacebands appear to move upward -simultaneously. This causes the line to spread from right -to left. After the first justification the spacebands stand at -an uneven height, those at the right of the line being a -trifle higher than those at the left. Since the line of matrices -must fill the entire space between the jaws in order to -cast, it is apparent that in order to get the greatest possible -freedom of action it is necessary that the matrices be pushed -toward the left gradually. Should the rod block come up -perfectly horizontal, the spacebands would move to the -left at the same time they are moving upward. This would -cause them to drag on the rod block and prevent a good -lockup and alignment and a possibility of bending the -spacebands. By coming up on a slight angle, each band is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</span> -practically justified separately in its particular part of the -line, and the dragging of the bands on the rod block is greatly -reduced.</p> - -<p>The justification lever also makes a slight upward movement -after the slug has been ejected. This movement operates -the slug lever, through a roller, and pushes the slugs -forward in the stick.</p> - -<p>The spring which operates the first justification lever -should be strong enough to justify the line properly, regardless -of the number of spacebands in the line. Before -changing the tension at any time, be sure that the mold -slide is properly adjusted. If the mold should lock too tight -against the line it would bind the matrices and prevent -proper justification. This would give the appearance of -weak justification springs.</p> - -<p>The left-hand lever is called the vise closing lever, and -is U-shaped on the forward end. One arm is connected by a -hinge pin to the left-hand vise closing wedge and block. The -other arm grooves around the left-hand justification rod, -beneath a lug on the rod.</p> - -<p>After the line is brought to the casting position, the vise -closing lever moves upward, immediately followed by the -justification lever. The vise closing lever locks the left-hand -vise jaw against the line and assists the justification lever -on its second movement upward. While these two levers -move almost in unison, their functions are different. On -second justification, the vise closing lever moves upward -slightly in advance of the first justification lever and supports -the left-hand end of the spaceband driving block, so -that the spacebands are all driven to an equal height. On -the first justification, the vise closing lever does not come in -contact with the spaceband driving block.</p> - -<p>The justification spring is stronger than the vise closing -spring. If for any reason the justification springs are removed, -care should be taken that they are not changed -while replacing them.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="THE_VISE">THE VISE</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The vise is that part of the machine which carries, as -its main parts, the first elevator slide, the vise justification<span class="pagenum" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</span> -rods, the trimming knives, the vise automatic, the vise -jaws, the slug lever, the mold disk locking stud blocks, the -mold banking blocks, and the knife wiper.</p> - -<p>The bottom end of the vise is hinged to the base of the -machine by a shaft. The top part is locked to the machine -by the vise locking screws, which interlock with the vise -locking studs on the frame.</p> - -<p>To open the vise to first position, push the control lever -all the way in, and turn the handles of the locking screws -in a vertical position, in which position they will be disengaged -from the vise locking studs.</p> - -<p>The vise may be opened to first position at any time -when the mold disk is not forward on the locking studs, -or the first elevator is not in the top guide. The vise should -never be opened to first position when the mold disk is -forward on the locking studs because it is difficult to get -it relocked on the studs against the lockup pressure; also -there is danger of getting the ends of justification levers -out of position under the collars on the justification rods.</p> - -<p>To open the vise to second position, let the machine -turn forward until the first elevator is resting on the vise -cap, just before the mold disk advances. Then lower to -first position. Hold the vise up with the left hand, release -pawl at the extreme bottom end of vise frame and let the -vise down easily, pulling up on the first elevator slide with -the right hand. This keeps the link from being damaged.</p> - -<p>Never let the vise down to second position unless the -first elevator is in the lower position. To do so would throw -the weight of the vise on the first elevator lever, with -danger of breaking the lever.</p> - -<p>The vise locking studs are set at the factory to give -the proper alignment of the vise with the mold. The studs -often have a very thin washer between their back shoulder -and the frame to give them the proper adjustment. Should -it be necessary to remove or replace a stud, be careful not -to lose or leave out the washers. Neither should more -washers be added. To do so would force the vise in a -strain when locked up, and cause an improper height of -the slug.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="VISE_JAWS">VISE JAWS</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The vise jaws, between which the line is justified, regulates -the position of the face of the type on each end of the -slug. The mold liner regulates the length of the slug. The -vise jaws should be adjusted to have the face of the type -flush with each end of the slug.</p> - -<p>The short, or right-hand, jaw is adjusted by the adjusting -screw in the knife block, under the right-hand vise locking -pin. When the line is being justified, the matrix on the -right-hand end is forced against the face of the short jaw. -The matrix on the left is forced against the face of the long, -or left-hand, jaw which is held tight by the vise closing -screw on the older models, or the vise closing wedge on the -newer models.</p> - -<p>When it is desired to change the measure to be set, -adjust the left-hand jaw with the adjusting rod. One-half -em is the shortest distance the long jaw can be adjusted -with the rod. If it is necessary to adjust less than this -distance use the adjusting bushing which screws in the -bracket. This applies to machines that are equipped with -the vise closing wedge.</p> - -<p>On the older models, remove the screw that passes -through the vise closing screw arm and screws into the -adjusting flange. Then adjust the vise closing screws, -which move the nut in or out.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="PUMP_STOP">PUMP STOP</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The pump stop prevents the pump lever from operating -if the line is not properly justified. The short, or right-hand, -vise jaw operates the pump stop operating lever. -When the line is justified the right-hand jaw is moved to the -right against the adjusting screw in the operating lever -which forces the stop lever from under the catch block, allowing -the pump lever to operate. If the line is not justified, -the right-hand jaw does not touch the adjusting screw and -the stop lever is allowed to remain under the catch block. -This prevents the pump lever from operating.</p> - -<p>The pump stop should have <span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>32</sub></span> of an inch between the -pump stop lever and pot lever block when line is properly -justified.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</span></p> - -<p>The pump stop lever is found under the pot lever block. -It is connected to a bracket by a screw, and operated by a -spring and operating lever. The adjustment is made with -the screw in the operating lever.</p> - -<p>To test this adjustment, push the right-hand jaw toward -the right and observe if the lever is clearing the block the -proper distance.</p> - -<p>When the line is justified the pump stop operating lever, -which is forced to the right by the short vise jaw, should -have a trifle lost motion; if not, the position of the type on -the right end of the slug would be regulated by the adjusting -screw in the pump stop operating lever instead of the -adjusting screw in the knife block.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="THE_FRICTION_CLUTCH">THE FRICTION CLUTCH</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The driving shaft of the machine is in two sections: The -shaft proper, and the short shaft that carries the driving -pinion. This pinion meshes with the driving gear, the two -shafts being held together by a taper pin. The driving -pinion makes eleven revolutions to one of the gear, the -ratio being 11 to 1.</p> - -<p>The outer end of the driving shaft is hollow. Inside of -the hollow shaft is a clutch rod and a spring. The spring fits -against a collar on this rod and draws the rod inward. The -inner end of the clutch rod is fastened by means of a long -screw pin extending through a hole in the rod to a collar -which encircles the shaft, the hole in the shaft being slotted, -so that when the collar is moved the rod moves also. On the -outward end of the shaft is mounted the friction clutch, the -levers being fastened to the end of the clutch rod. The friction -clutch is keyed to the hollow shaft, so when the clutch -is turned it also turns the shaft.</p> - -<p>Pressure on a forked lever fulcrumed to the base of the -machine, one end of which encircles the collar and the other -end touching the lower stop lever, holds the clutch out of -action. When the pressure of the forked lever against the -collar is released, the clutch spring expands and the clutch -rod moves the collar inward until the leather buffers are -pushed against the inner surface of the driving pulley, causing -the shaft to rotate.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</span></p> - -<p>After the machine has made a complete revolution, a -pawl on cam No. 10 contacts the upper stopping lever and -through the lower stopping lever forces the forked lever -against the collar, throwing the friction out of action.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">The Clutch Spring</span></h3> - -<p>The clutch spring is held in place by a small collar on -the inside end of the clutch rod and a screw bushing on the -outside, by which the tension of the spring is regulated. -This tension should be sixteen to twenty pounds. A screw -pin passes through a slot in the shaft, through the clutch -rod, and into the opposite side of the collar. The outer end -of the clutch rod is connected to the friction clutch by a -screw which passes through the clutch rod. By taking off -the clutch and hooking a balance spring in the screw hole -in the rod and pulling out on the scale, the instant the rod -moves the scale indicates the tension of the spring registered. -One end of the clutch rod is connected to the collar -on the shaft, and the other end is connected to the clutch. -When the collar is moved the clutch rod also moves in the -same direction.</p> - -<p>When the clutch rod spring is adjusted to a tension of -16 to 20 pounds it gives about the right friction to carry the -machine through all its operations where everything is -working properly, but if anything sticks or makes the machine -run hard, the clutch will slip.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Friction Clutch Adjustments</span></h3> - -<p>There are three positions of the starting and stopping -lever: Starting, operation, and stopping. When pulled all -of the way out the lever is in starting position. When the -lever is in starting position, the eccentric screw in the starting -and stopping lever pulls against the lug in the vertical -lever and causes the upper lug to force the automatic stopping -pawl off the upper stopping lever. This sets the machine -in action. When the lever is half way out it is in operating -position and allows the machine to start when a line is sent -in. When the lever is pushed all the way in the clutch is -thrown out of action and the machine is stopped.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</span></p> - -<p>When making any adjustments, have the lever in starting -position (out as far as it will go). If the automatic -stopping pawl is resting on the upper stopping lever, the -adjustments could not be made, as the lower stopping lever -would be forcing the forked lever against the collar, throwing -the friction clutch out of action.</p> - -<p>The friction clutch should be adjusted so as to have -<span class="xs"><sup>15</sup>/<sub>32</sub></span> of an inch between the collar and the shaft bearing. -Place a <span class="xs"><sup>15</sup>/<sub>32</sub></span> inch gage between the right-hand side of the -collar and the left-hand side of the shaft bearing. If the -distance is less than <span class="xs"><sup>15</sup>/<sub>32</sub></span> of an inch, dress the leather buffers -with a file. If the distance is more, place cardboard under -the buffers to increase the thickness. On old-style machines -this adjustment was made by two nuts, one on each side -of the clutch rod. Putting cardboard under the buffers will -not satisfactorily drive the machine if something else is -wrong. If there is too much packing under the leathers -the starting and stopping lever will have no effect on the -clutch and the machine will not stop properly.</p> - -<p>The upper stopping lever and the lower stopping lever -are fastened by pin pivots to a steel shaft which passes -through the vertical lever. This allows a limited up and -down movement of the stopping levers. The shaft is held in -position by a set screw in the top of the vertical lever -bracket. When the machine is in action the forked lever -must be free of the collar. If it is not, the clutch does not -get the proper pressure on the inside of the pulley, because -the forked lever would push against the collar and force -the rod and clutch outward. To be sure the forked lever -is free of the collar, adjust so there is <span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>32</sub></span> of an inch between -the lower stopping lever and the forked lever. This adjustment -is made by the screw in the lower part of the upper -stopping lever.</p> - -<p>When the upper stopping pawl comes to rest on the -upper stopping lever, it forces the adjusting screw in the -lower part of the upper stopping lever against the lower -stopping lever, and the bottom end of the lower stopping -lever causes the forked lever to force the collar out, throwing -the clutch out of action and stopping the machine. This -gives a horizontal movement from a vertical action. The<span class="pagenum" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</span> -automatic stop pawl should rest on the upper stopping lever -¼ of an inch when the machine is at normal. This adjustment -is made by loosening the set screw which holds the -shaft in the vertical starting lever, and moving the lever -sidewise. When the stopping pawl rests ¼ of an inch on the -upper stopping lever, the automatic safety pawl will also -rest on it exactly the same, as both pawls are adjusted the -same.</p> - -<p>Fastened to cam No. 10 are two pawls. One is the automatic -stopping pawl and stops the machine after it has -made one complete revolution. The other is the automatic -safety pawl, and stops the machine when a line fails to -transfer from the first to the second elevator. These two -pawls are adjusted by screws that pass through the pawl -and strike the lug of the cam, and are held against this -lug with a spring. The distance from the left-hand side -of the pawl to the left-hand side of the cam should be <span class="xs"><sup>15</sup>/<sub>16</sub></span> -of an inch.</p> - -<p>The vertical lever is fastened to the column, at the back -of the machine above the forked lever, by a hexagon head -machine screw at its upper end. The lower end is held in -place by the shaft which passes through the lever into the -machine frame. The only time the vertical lever is in action -is when the machine is started by the starting and stopping -lever. On the starting lever is an eccentric screw which -stands behind the lower lug of the vertical lever. When the -starting and stopping lever is pulled out, the eccentric screw -engages the lower lug and pulls it forward, causing the -upper lug to push the stopping or safety pawls clear of the -upper stopping lever. There are three lugs on the vertical -lever: The upper lug, the lower lug, and the lug inside of -the bracket.</p> - -<p>There is a headless screw in the vertical lever bracket, -the front end encircled by a spring. This spring forces the -vertical lever back to its normal position after the lever has -been pulled forward by the starting and stopping lever. -When pulled forward, the upper lug strikes against the automatic -stopping pawl forcing it clear of the upper stopping -lever. This adjustment is made by means of the headless -screw in the lever bracket. The proper adjustment forces<span class="pagenum" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</span> -the stopping pawl <span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>16</sub></span> of an inch clear of the upper stopping -lever. The lug inside the bracket should permit the upper -lug to clear the stopping pawl <span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>64</sub></span> of an inch when the lug is -at rest. This adjustment is made by turning the adjusting -screw in the column opposite the headless screw. This screw -regulates the stroke of the inner lug.</p> - -<p>Unless the upper vertical lug, after pushing the stopping -pawls off the upper stopping lever, returns clear of the -pawls, it would prevent the pawls from seating properly on -the upper stopping lever.</p> - -<p>The adjustment of the lower lug of the vertical lever -and the eccentric screw on the starting lever should be made -by releasing the set nut on the eccentric screw and turning -the screw until there is <span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>32</sub></span> of an inch between the screw -and the lug. If this adjustment is not properly made it -will interfere with the upper lug and throw it out of adjustment.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Friction Clutch Hints</span></h3> - -<p>To remove the friction clutch: Push in on the starting -and stopping lever. Take out the fulcrum screw or remove -the nut from the outer end of the clutch rod. Remove the -clutch arm key screw. The clutch can now be removed. Be -careful in replacing the friction to have the key with the -bevel down and toward the back of the keyway.</p> - -<p>The driving pulleys or gear can be removed only when -the friction clutch is removed.</p> - -<p>To remove the clutch rod spring: Remove the friction -clutch. Unscrew the screw bushing from the end of the -shaft, take out the screw extending through the collar, and -pull out the clutch rod and the spring.</p> - -<p>If the machine stops on the upper stopping lever with a -jerk, the inner side of the driving pulley or the friction -clutch leathers are gummy or the friction is out of adjustment.</p> - -<p>The inner surface of the driving pulley must be kept -clean.</p> - -<p>If the machine slows up while casting or ejecting, the -clutch is slipping.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</span></p> - -<p>The <span class="xs"><sup>15</sup>/<sub>32</sub></span> of an inch adjustment is made by the nut on the -clutch rod on the old style, and by building up under the -leathers on the new.</p> - -<p>The <span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>32</sub></span> of an inch adjustment is made by the screw in -the lower part of the upper stopping lever.</p> - -<p>The machine will not stop when the key screw in the -clutch arm works loose, allowing the friction clutch to work -toward the outer end of the shaft.</p> - -<p>A screw holding the clutch leather shoe in place, may -extend above the shoe and cause the friction to slip.</p> - -<p>The friction link collar, where it fastens on to the clutch -rod, should be parallel with the driving pulley or gear when -the machine is in operating position; if not, there is unequal -pressure on the links and shoes, causing a slipping clutch.</p> - -<p>Study the friction clutch adjustments, but do not change -them every time something stops the machine. It is much -easier to break an adjustment than to make one.</p> - -<p>A piece of metal from a squirt lodged between the mold -disk guide or back of the rim on the disk will cause it to bind, -placing more pull on the clutch.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="STAY_BOLT">STAY BOLT</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The stay bolt passes through the main cam shaft bracket -cap and screws into the column. The object of the stay bolt -is to take the strain from the column. When the machine -is in casting position with the pot locking against the mold, -the mold and disk forcing against the vise, and the right-hand -side of the vise locking against the stud, there is -considerable strain on the column. If the column should -spring, the vise would also move and the lockup would be -imperfect. In applying the stay bolt, never tighten it with -a wrench. If too tight, it will spring the bracket cap and -cause the cam shaft to bind and the clutch will not drive the -machine. Screw it in with your fingers until the head of the -bolt bears lightly against the bracket.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="VISE_AUTOMATIC">VISE AUTOMATIC</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The purpose of the vise automatic is to prevent the mold -from coming forward and shearing the lugs of the matrices -whenever anything prevents the first elevator from descending<span class="pagenum" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</span> -low enough for the first elevator adjusting screw to rest -on the vise cap.</p> - -<p>The vise automatic consists of a stop rod, stop rod pawl, -mold disk dog, and vise automatic levers.</p> - -<p>The stop rod is suspended and held upward by a spring, -the top end of the rod extending through the vise cap and -the lower end resting back of the lever which operates -against the clutch rod.</p> - -<p>A little below center in the stop rod is the stop rod pawl. -This pawl is held in place in a slot by a small coil spring -which sets just back of the pawl in the stop rod. This -spring, in addition to holding the pawl in place, also gives -the pawl a little play which allows more of a bite when the -pawl is placed in action.</p> - -<p>The mold disk dog is held in the vise frame by a screw -which extends downward through a slotted hole in the dog. -Inside the mold disk dog is a coil spring. This spring is to -hold the dog back toward the mold and should be strong -enough to keep the mold disk dog pin against the retaining -screw when the vise automatic is not in action.</p> - -<p>When the first elevator is in its lowest position the vise -automatic adjusting screw touches the upper end of the stop -rod and forces it downward. When the mold slide advances, -the mold opposite the one in use pushes the mold disk dog -out, above the pawl, and allows the machine to remain in -action. However, should the first elevator fail to descend -low enough for the stop rod to be pushed down, the dog, as -it is advanced by the mold, strikes against the pawl and -forces it forward against the vise automatic levers, stopping -the machine.</p> - -<p>The mold disk dog must clear the automatic stop rod -when the first elevator adjusting screw is resting on the -vise cap.</p> - -<p>To make this adjustment turn the machine until the first -elevator is resting on the vise cap. Move the adjusting screw -so the stop rod pawl will just pass below the dog. To test, -have machine in normal position, place a thin matrix on the -vise cap under the first elevator adjusting screw. Pull out on -the starting and stopping lever, setting the machine in -action. The first elevator, not going to its proper position,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</span> -the driving clutch should be forced out of action by the vise -automatic. After backing the machine a trifle and removing the -matrix, the machine should start.</p> - -<p>The machine will not stop when making this test, if -either the lip of the disk dog, or the pawl is damaged. If -damaged or worn, replace with new parts, as the vise automatic -should always be in working condition.</p> - -<p>If the machine is delayed in stopping when the vise automatic -goes into action, look at the <span class="xs"><sup>15</sup>/<sub>32</sub></span> and <span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>32</sub></span> inch adjustments -on the friction clutch.</p> - -<p>When replacing the mold disk dog, be sure that the -screw goes between the spring and the pin. This is accomplished -by turning the screw down until it is below the level -of the pin. Then push in on the dog until the pin strikes the -screw. Raise the screw slowly until the pin will just pass -under the end of the screw, pushing in on the dog while the -screw is being raised. Push in on the dog and turn the -screw down just inside the pin. The screw will then be between -the spring and the pin. Be careful not to turn the -screw down on the spring, as it will damage the spring and -not allow the dog to operate.</p> - -<p>On the machines with four-pocket mold disks, the dog -is pushed forward as the mold slide comes forward in ejecting -position. This action of the dog would operate the -automatic, throwing the clutch out of action and stopping -the machine at ejecting position. To overcome this action, -there is a stop rod lever and bracket assembled on the vise -frame in front of the automatic stop lever. The lever is -fastened to the bracket by a fulcrum screw. One end of -this lever carries a small roller, and the other end rests -above a pin in the stop rod. The roller runs on a runway at -the back of the first elevator slide on the right-hand side. -The stop rod is pulled down below the mold disk dog by the -lever until the slide moves downward, the roller follows the -runway, when owing to a depression, the roller drops, releasing -the lever and permitting the stop rod to come to -operating position in front of the dog. As the slide moves to -transfer position, the lever pulls the stop rod down below -the dog.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="FILLING_PIECE_AND_SAFETY_LUG">FILLING PIECE AND SAFETY LUG</h2> -</div> - - -<p>Attached to all new machines is a filling piece that is -known as the simple two-letter attachment. This attachment -is fastened by two screws to the vise cap, and when in -operating position, it prevents the first elevator from dropping -down to normal position. This attachment permits the -assembling of a line of matrices in the regular position and -casting them in the auxiliary position. Whenever this attachment -is used, the duplex rails on the assembling elevator -must not be used.</p> - -<p>On all machines carrying headletter or special display -molds, the simple two-letter attachment must always be -used instead of the duplex rails.</p> - -<p>At the side of these special molds there is a small lug -fastened to the mold disk. This is known as a safety stop. -When operating, a machine equipped with these special -molds, if the simple two-letter attachment should not be -placed in position, this safety stop would immediately come -in contact with a safety plate, fastened to the first elevator -back jaw, holding the first elevator off the vise cap and -allowing the vise automatic to stop the machine, preventing -a squirt, and damage to the first elevator jaws.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="MODEL_9">MODEL 9</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The Model 9 is equipped with four superimposed interchangeable -magazines, any-one of which may be instantly -brought into use by merely shifting a lever. These magazines -are not interchangeable with the No. 5 magazines. -The machine is built along the same general lines of all -Linotypes and has a regular keyboard of 90 characters.</p> - -<p>The magazines may be changed from the front of the -machine. Each magazine is provided with escapements -controlling the delivery of the matrices. These escapements -are actuated by a single series of escapement rods mounted -in a frame on the assembler front. Each rod has four -notches in its edge. Shifting the hand lever raises or lowers -the frame in which the rods are assembled and connects -their upper ends with the escapements of any one of the -magazines. This same movement connects these rods<span class="pagenum" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</span> -through one of the series of notches to the keyrods which -are operated by the usual keyboard mechanism.</p> - -<p>Each magazine has a standard type distributing mechanism. -The machine has a primary distributor box for all -the magazine through which the matrices must pass before -passing to their regular distributor. The dropping -of the matrices into their right magazines is governed by a -series of slot combinations cut in the bottom of the matrix -and a corresponding bridge placed in the primary box. A -mixed line out of any two or all four of the magazines may -be set in this machine, the matrices being separated in the -primary distributor and then dropping into their regular -magazine.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="TABULAR_ATTACHMENTS">TABULAR ATTACHMENTS</h2> -</div> - - -<p>There are two attachments in common use for setting -tabular composition. These are the Chicago Lino-Tabler -and the Rogers Tabular.</p> - -<p>The Chicago Lino-Tabler equipment can be used on -any model machine with any font of matrices from 5 point -up to and including 14 point. This equipment consists of -twenty matrices, a broach, quad block and slide for casting -box rules, and special triangular-shaped brass rule for -use between columns.</p> - -<p>The matrices are cut to run in the vertical rule channel. -In the matrices are two small slots from which two lugs -or fins are cast on the slug. When using these matrices on -the models 9, 16, 17, and 24, the magazine in which they -are to run must be designated.</p> - -<p>There are four styles of rule available, two hairline -faces, a one-point face, and parallel rules. The rules are held -on the top surface of the slugs, and are clamped down by -bending the lugs or fins over with a make-up rule.</p> - -<p>Cross rule is cast in the regular slug form from the -block and slide. Box headings or rule forms are made by -using the broach which punches small triangular notches -through the top edge of the rule slug. This permits the -vertical rule to be inserted, forming a close joint.</p> - -<p>The Rogers Tabular can only be used on machines that -are equipped with the attachment. When using this attachment<span class="pagenum" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</span> -the matrices that run in the vertical rule channel are -used in the assembled line where rules are wanted. From -these matrices on the slug are cast two slots in which the -rules are inserted. All other characters are punched .144 of -an inch deeper than the standard, which necessitates using -a low mold. When changing from regular to tabular, first -turn the tabular mold into normal position; second, move -lever which is attached to the eccentric pin in the mold cam -lever so it is locked in the rear sector block. Doing so moves -the mold slide forward the difference in the thickness of the -regular and low mold. Third, loosen screw and turn eccentric -bushing in pot lever half way, which moves pot forward -the distance the mold slide has been moved. Fourth, connect -one end of the return spring to the hook which is in -the rear of the machine. This spring is for the purpose of -relieving the mold cam lever of the added strain when the -slug is moved from the line after casting. It is also necessary -to use the tabular spacebands, which also can be used -with standard matrices.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="ADVERTISING_FIGURES">ADVERTISING FIGURES</h2> -</div> - - -<p>To use the advertising figures it is necessary to have -the machine equipped with a mold, the cap of which is -thicker than the standard, also the universal knife block. -When using the figures, which can be cast at any place -in the line, open the knife so the figure will pass through -without being trimmed. Leave space on the next line to support -the overhang. Close the knife so the slug will be -trimmed. The grooves in this mold being ground parallel, -the slug that is not trimmed will lock up without tipping -against the one that is trimmed.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="MAKING_MACHINE_CHANGES">MAKING MACHINE CHANGES</h2> -</div> - - -<p>When it is desired to change the size of type and measure -on the linotype a definite procedure should be followed. -There are eight distinct operations in making a complete -change from one size to another. By following the same -order each time there is less danger of forgetting one or -more changes, which may cause damage to the machine. -Any one of the eight changes can be made independent of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</span> -the other, but the habit formed by always keeping in the -same order is a good one.</p> - -<p>The suggested order of changes is as follows:</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>1. Change the <em>mold liners</em>. This is done when it is -desired to change the <em>length</em> or <em>thickness</em> of the slug.</p> - -<p>2. Change the <em>ejector blade</em>. This is done when the -<em>length</em> of the slug is changed. A blade six points in thickness -will work on any thickness slug six points or above.</p> - -<p>3. Change the side <em>trimming knives</em>. This change must -be made when the <em>thickness</em> of the line is changed.</p> - -<p>4. Change the left hand <em>vise jaw</em>. This must be changed -when the <em>length</em> of the line is changed.</p> - -<p>5. Change the <em>assembler slide</em>. This must be changed -when the <em>length</em> of the line is changed.</p> - -<p>6. Change the line delivery slide <em>long finger</em>. This must -be changed when the <em>length</em> of the line is changed.</p> - -<p>7. Change the <em>magazine</em>. This is to be changed when a -different <em>size</em> or <em>font</em> of type is desired.</p> - -<p>8. Change the <em>font distinguisher</em>. This must be changed -if the <em>point size</em> of matrices is changed.</p> -</div> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CARE_OF_THE_MACHINE">CARE OF THE MACHINE</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The following schedule of work should be performed on -each machine in a shop or school, in regular periods as indicated -by the caption under which each item is listed.</p> - -<p>In a school where each student is to care for a certain -machine, the various operations should be performed at a -certain specified time, all students working on the same -schedule at one time.</p> - -<p>In a shop where machinists do this work it will be necessary -to form a regular routine including all the items of the -working schedule, so that each machine will receive its -proper care at a certain specified time. Of course it will be -necessary to distribute this work so that it will not interfere -with the productive time of the machine and so that the machinists -can have time to care for the ordinary machine -troubles as they occur during the productive time. Much of -the regular care of the machines can be done by helpers<span class="pagenum" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</span> -outside the hours when the operators are at work. In making -such a schedule, each machine should be listed, by number, -for certain operations each day. In this way it will be a -simple matter for the head machinist to check up on the -work, for by referring to the schedule he can determine -what work should be performed on each machine for any -particular day. Of course, the schedule must vary in minor -points in various shops, due to climatic conditions. Dirt is -the chief offender in causing machine trouble, therefore the -cleanliness of the building in which the machines are located -will very frequently cause a variation in the working -schedule.</p> - -<p>The following schedule will be found sufficient for the -average linotype and if followed efficiently, will keep the -machine in “pink of condition.”</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Daily Operations</span></h3> - -<p>Wipe off the dust from the machine frame—the front, -back, vise frame, underneath the pot, top of magazine, etc., -using a rag and brush. With bellows or air hose, blow the -dust out of the assembling elevator, keyboard, main drive -cams, and all other places not reached with a brush, excepting -the metal pot.</p> - -<p>Clean the mold disk. Use a brass rule and rag. Remove -all metal from the face and back of the mold, scraping the -metal loose with the brass rule and wiping with a rag. Remove -all metal from behind the mold disk.</p> - -<p>Wipe off the mouthpiece with a rag, and scratch out the -cross vents with a sharpened brass rule if they are filled -or corroded.</p> - -<p>Lubricate the locking studs. Put a small amount of -graphite and cup grease mixture on the mold-disk locking -studs.</p> - -<p>Inspect the mold wipers. Examine the front and back -mold wipers; see that they are in working condition. A small -amount of graphite and cup grease mixture should be applied -to the back mold wiper. For the front mold wiper, wet -the pieces of felt in gasoline and then apply graphite until -well saturated.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</span></p> - -<p>Inspect the knife wiper. See that it works freely up and -down. Straighten or replace flag, if needed.</p> - -<p>Inspect the pump stop lever. See that it is working.</p> - -<p>Inspect the vise-automatic dog. See that the vise-automatic -dog and the stop rod are free from metal and that -they move without interference.</p> - -<p>Apply graphite. With a very small amount of graphite -on a magazine brush, rub the following:</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>1. Line delivery channel.</p> - -<p>2. First elevator jaws.</p> - -<p>3. Front side of the intermediate bar in the elevator -slide top guide.</p> - -<p>4. Slideway of the delivery.</p> - -<p>5. Transfer-slide slideway.</p> - -<p>6. Distributor-shifter slideway.</p> - -<p>7. Top and front edge of the second elevator bar plate.</p> - -<p>8. Second elevator upper guide.</p> - -<p>9. Back and side of the second elevator lower guide.</p> -</div> - -<p>Clean the plunger and metal pot. Clean the plunger in -the cleaning box. Use a well-brush in the well. Open the -holes on the side of the well, using the hook of the pot -mouth-wiper. Skim the dross from the pot.</p> - -<p>Clean the spacebands on a smooth board, using graphite. -See that no metal adheres to the spaceband sleeve, and that -the dark spot on the sleeve is removed.</p> - -<p>Repair damaged matrices and spacebands.</p> - -<hr class="r20"> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Weekly Operations</span></h3> - -<p>Clean the distributor screws. Also clean the bearings of -all surplus oil.</p> - -<p>Clean the surface of the main driving cams thoroughly.</p> - -<p>Test the vise-automatic. See that the vise-automatic -stops the machine if the first elevator does not descend the -full distance.</p> - -<p>Oil the machine. Put oil in all oil holes, using it sparingly -in the places where there is not much wear. Parts subjected -to heat should have plenty of oil. Wipe off all overflow -oil with a rag while oiling. A drop or two in oil holes<span class="pagenum" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</span> -is sufficient for most of the holes. The late model machines -will have grease cups instead of oil cups. If there is plenty -of grease in the cup, give it a turn. Put a small amount of -dry graphite in the various slideways.</p> - -<p>Note—While oiling give the machine a good general -inspection. Watch for any loose parts or loose screws.</p> - -<p>Test assembler measures.</p> - -<p>Examine star wheel. Replace if necessary.</p> - -<p>Polish magazines.</p> - -<p>Measure thickness and height of slugs.</p> - -<hr class="r20"> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Monthly Operations</span></h3> - -<p>Clean the magazine and matrices.</p> - -<p>Take out all matrices which have the lugs sheared or -damaged too much for good use.</p> - -<p>Take a matrix proof. This is done by running out all the -matrices of each character and casting them on a slug. Then -take a proof.</p> - -<p>Remove the main driving clutch, and clean the inner surface -of the pulley and the leather buffers on the clutch shoes.</p> - -<p>Clean the surface of the keyboard rollers with soap and -water. Sandpaper them if needed.</p> - -<p>Examine gas burners. Clean if necessary.</p> - -<p>Clean assembler plate and slide.</p> - -<p>Clean distributor box.</p> - -<p>Clean and dress commutator.</p> - -<p>Clean magnetic thermometer contact points on electric -pots.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="MECHANICAL_TERMS">MECHANICAL TERMS</h2> -</div> - - -<p>Adjusting Screw—A screw for taking up wear, or for -shifting the position of some movable piece.</p> - -<p>Bushing—(1) A lining, usually of metal, for a hole. -(2) A tube for insertion into an opening to reduce the -effective diameter.</p> - -<p>Cam—A non-circular or eccentric rotating piece, often -of irregular outline and giving motion that is irregular in -direction, rate, or time.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</span></p> - -<p>Clutch—A power-transmitting device operating by friction -or interlocking, for securing or breaking rotative continuity, -as between two shafts or a pulley and a shaft.</p> - -<p>Collar—An annular enlargement of a shaft or axle, -usually at or near the end.</p> - -<p>Cotter Pin—A split pin for insertion in the slot of a bolt -to prevent it being drawn.</p> - -<p>Detent—A stop or checking device, as a pin, lever, etc.</p> - -<p>Dowel—A pin or peg, usually cylindrical, for joining together -two adjacent parts.</p> - -<p>Escapement—A mechanical device used for securing a -uniform movement.</p> - -<p>Gear—Any set of appliances as of cog wheels, serving -to transmit motion.</p> - -<p>Gib—A wedge-shaped or other piece of metal that holds -another in place or presses two pieces together.</p> - -<p>Link—Any intermediate rod or piece for transmitting -force or motion, especially a short connecting rod with a -bearing at each end.</p> - -<p>Pawl—A hinged or pivoted piece, having a point, edge, -or hook made to engage with ratchet teeth, as for driving a -rachet-wheel, or preventing reverse motion; a click, detent, -or ratchet.</p> - -<p>Pinion—A toothed wheel driving or driven by a large -cog wheel.</p> - -<p>Segment—A geared wheel, cam, or pulley, the outline or -efficient working surface of which is a section of the whole -circle.</p> - -<p>Slide—A sliding part of a machine or implement.</p> - -<p>Slideway—A lengthwise bearing on which a piece may -slide.</p> - -<p>Stud—(1) A pin having a large round head. (2) A -short bolt having a shoulder.</p> - -<p>Turnbuckle—A form of coupling so threaded or swiveled -that when connecting lengthwise two metal rods, it -may be turned so as to regulate the length or tension of the -connected parts.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="THINGS_YOU_SHOULD_KNOW">THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW</h2> -</div> - - -<p>Do not forget to form a regular schedule for the care -of the machine.</p> - -<p>Model 5 magazines are interchangeable with models 4, -8, 14, 18, 19, and 14-s-k.</p> - -<p>When using any font over 14-point it is necessary to have -the machine equipped with headletter or special advertising -figure attachment.</p> - -<p>Advertising figures can only be cast on machines that -have the universal knife block.</p> - -<p>For two-line advertising figures, use 14-point figures -with 6-point type; 18-point figures with 8-point type; 24-point -figures with 10-point type.</p> - -<p>To pull out mold slide on machine equipped with universal -mold slide, disconnect the link from the lever.</p> - -<p>Do not open the vise when the mold slide is forward on -the locking studs.</p> - -<p>Hair lines are usually caused by a collection of metal on -the spacebands, breaking the walls of the matrix.</p> - -<p>Removing metal from the first elevator with a screwdriver -will damage the elevator.</p> - -<p>Heating metal on the mold or disk with a burner will -ruin the mold or disk.</p> - -<p>Without disconnecting the connecting link the vise can -not be lowered to the second position unless the first elevator -is resting on the vise cap. When lowering, pull out on the -slide to prevent breaking the eyebolt.</p> - -<p>Eleven-point is the largest font that can be used in the -model “K.”</p> - -<p>Oil on the buffers will cause the main friction clutch to -slip.</p> - -<p>The assembler slide brake pawl is for the purpose of -loosening a tight line so as to remove a matrix from the -assembling elevator, not to put in one more.</p> - -<p>When metal gets into the mold cap screw in the mold -disk after a squirt, do not hammer the metal with a screwdriver. -To do so merely drives the metal tighter in the -threads of the screw hole. Gouge the metal out with a knife -a little at a time.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</span></p> - -<p>Most machine troubles are caused by dirt. Keep the -machine clean.</p> - -<p>Do not change adjustments every time something goes -wrong. Be sure you <em>know</em> what is wrong before attempting -to fix a trouble. Trace all troubles to their source before -attempting a remedy.</p> - -<p>One important point that should be watched is that in -oiling any part of the machine which comes in contact -with the matrices, no oil should be allowed to accumulate -where it is liable to find its way on to the matrices.</p> - -<p>Clean the machine whenever necessary—otherwise let -it alone. Be sure that any new inventions of your own are -good before applying them. Do not take off parts unnecessarily. -The less you dismantle a machine, the more success -you will have with it. But keep it clean.</p> - -<p>A large number of matrices and spacebands are lost by -being swept up with the metal around the machine, and -thrown in the remelting furnace. Matrices should always -be picked up when dropped. A good plan is to have the -person who sweeps up the metal to throw it in a special -pile. It is very easy then for someone to look through the -pile carefully, under good light, and find the matrices and -spacebands that have been overlooked while sweeping. -Matrices which have gone through a remelting furnace -are usually no good for further use.</p> - -<p>Small job fonts can be used conveniently and economically -on any class of job work where only a few lines of -display are required or in recasting for duplicate forms. -These small job fonts may be carried in special trays and -they can be procured either to run pi or run in the regular -or auxiliary magazine.</p> - -<p>Brass hair spaces, very thin spaces, grading in .001 of -an inch from .007 to .024 can be obtained. These spaces do -not run in the magazine, but drop in the tray under the -second elevator transfer. They are very handy for closely-spaced -lines or for lines where it is desired to letterspace.</p> - -<p>The machine may be driven from any shaft having a -uniform speed of rotation or by individual motor. A machine -requires one-fourth horse power but a motor slightly -in excess of this should be used. These motors can be<span class="pagenum" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</span> -belt driven or connected directly to the machine by gear. -The speed of the machine should be uniform at all times, for -fluctuations will interfere with the operation and tend to -reduce the output and cause machine troubles.</p> - -<p>To ascertain the size of the pulley required on the driving -shaft, multiply the diameter of the main driving pulley -on the machine (14½”) by the number of revolutions desired -and divide the product by the revolutions of the driving -(or motor) shaft. The quotient will be the diameter -of the pulley required.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="MICROMETER_CALIPER">MICROMETER CALIPER</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The chief mechanical principle embodied in the construction -of a micrometer is that of a screw free to move -in a fixed nut. The spindle of the micrometer is attached to -the thimble at the top point, and extends downward through -the inside of the sleeve; the thimble extending downward -on the outside of the sleeve. The part of the spindle, which -is concealed within the sleeve and thimble, is threaded to -fit a nut in the frame of the micrometer. The pitch of the -screw threads on the concealed part of the spindle are 40 -to the inch. Therefore one complete revolution of the spindle -draws it back <span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>40</sub></span>, or .025, of an inch.</p> - -<p>The sleeve is marked with 40 lines to the inch, corresponding -to the number of threads on the spindle. When -the spindle is down against the anvil, the beveled edge of -the thimble coincides with the lone 0 on the sleeve, and the -0 line on the thimble coincides with the horizontal line on -the sleeve. By turning the knurled thimble with the thumb -and finger until the 0 line on the thimble again agrees with -the horizontal line on the sleeve, the distance between the -anvil and the bottom point of the spindle will be <span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>40</sub></span>, or -.025 of an inch, and the beveled edge of the thimble will -coincide with the second vertical line on the sleeve. Each -vertical line on the sleeve indicates a distance of <span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>40</sub></span>, or -.025 of an inch. Every fourth line on the sleeve is made -longer than the others, and is numbered 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, etc., up -to 0 or the capacity of the micrometer. Each numbered line -indicates a distance of four times <span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>40</sub></span> of an inch, or <span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>10</sub></span>.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</span></p> - -<p>The beveled edge of the thimble is marked in twenty-five -divisions, and every fifth line is numbered from 0 to 25. -Turning the spindle from one of these marks to the next -indicates that the spindle has been moved <span class="xs"><sup>1</sup>/<sub>25</sub></span> of .025, or -one-thousandth of an inch.</p> - -<p>Hold the frame stationary and revolve the thimble with -the thumb and finger. The spindle, being attached to the -thimble, revolves with it, and moves through the nut in the -frame, approaching or receding from the anvil. The measurement -of the opening between the anvil and the spindle is -shown by the lines and figures on the sleeve and the thimble.</p> - -<p>To read the micrometer, place the object to be measured -on the anvil, turning the thimble up or down until it touches -the object lightly. Multiply the amount of vertical divisions -visible on the sleeve by 25 and add the number of divisions -on the bevel of the thimble from 0 to the line which coincides -with the horizontal line on the sleeve.</p> - -<p>For example, if there are 5 divisions visible on the sleeve -and six lines showing on the thimble, multiply 5 by 25, and -add 6. Total .131 of an inch.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="THE_POINT_SYSTEM">THE POINT SYSTEM</h2> -</div> - - -<p>Some time prior to the year 1450 Gutenberg invented -the casting of metal type in molds. As the art of printing -advanced, many new sizes were cast, but no attempt was -made to cast them with a uniform gradation in size and it -was difficult to build up one size of body to equal another; -that is, justify them.</p> - -<p>To obviate this, Fournier, in 1737, advocated a method -of casting type according to some unit. The size known as -pica was in use in various countries in Europe, and was -considered a standard size. Taking the pica as a basis he -divided it into twelve parts, each of which he called a point. -He chose one-twelfth of a pica as the unit because there -existed five sizes of type between pica and nonpareil. As -nonpareil was just half the size of pica, this made the -succession of sizes seven, eight, nine, ten, and eleven points, -any of which could be justified with another by the use of -material made to the same unit.</p> - -<p>The United States Typefounders’ Association finally<span class="pagenum" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</span> -adopted it in 1887. It is the only system in use in first-class -offices today.</p> - -<p>It is popularly supposed that six picas equal one inch. -This is approximately so, but not absolutely, for six picas -measure but .99648 of an inch. The American pica runs -about three points less than 72 lines to the foot. Its actual -measurement is .16608 of an inch. One-twelfth of this, or -one point, is, therefore .01384 of an inch.</p> - -<p>When calculating the amount of type contained in any -piece of composed matter, it is measured up in ems, and this -em, or unit, is the em of the body.</p> - -<p>The square of each size of type is called the em of that -body. Thus, the em of six-point is six points square; the -em of eight-point is eight points square; and so on.</p> - - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<h2>EMS TO RUNNING INCH</h2> - -<p class="fs80">In estimating the amount of matter set, the following table of -type measurement will be found useful. It shows the number of ems -in a running inch, in columns from 10 to 30 picas wide, in seven different -sizes of type. The figures across the top denote the width of -page or column in picas, and the figures below denote the number of -ems to the column inch in the various sizes designated in the column -to the left.</p> - - -<p class="center fs80">WIDTH OF COLUMNS IN PICAS</p> - - -<table class="autotable fs80"> -<tr> -<td class="tdl bt bb br"></td> -<td class="tdr bt bb br">10</td> -<td class="tdr bt bb br">11</td> -<td class="tdr bt bb br">12</td> -<td class="tdr bt bb br">13</td> -<td class="tdr bt bb br">14</td> -<td class="tdr bt bb br">15</td> -<td class="tdr bt bb br">16</td> -<td class="tdr bt bb br">17</td> -<td class="tdr bt bb br">18</td> -<td class="tdr bt bb br">19</td> -<td class="tdr bt bb">20</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl br">6 point</td> -<td class="tdr br">240</td> -<td class="tdr br">264</td> -<td class="tdr br">288</td> -<td class="tdr br">312</td> -<td class="tdr br">336</td> -<td class="tdr br">360</td> -<td class="tdr br">384</td> -<td class="tdr br">408</td> -<td class="tdr br">432</td> -<td class="tdr br">456</td> -<td class="tdr">480</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl br">7 point</td> -<td class="tdr br">177</td> -<td class="tdr br">194</td> -<td class="tdr br">212</td> -<td class="tdr br">229</td> -<td class="tdr br">247</td> -<td class="tdr br">265</td> -<td class="tdr br">282</td> -<td class="tdr br">300</td> -<td class="tdr br">318</td> -<td class="tdr br">335</td> -<td class="tdr">353</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl br">8 point</td> -<td class="tdr br">135</td> -<td class="tdr br">148</td> -<td class="tdr br">162</td> -<td class="tdr br">175</td> -<td class="tdr br">189</td> -<td class="tdr br">202</td> -<td class="tdr br">216</td> -<td class="tdr br">229</td> -<td class="tdr br">243</td> -<td class="tdr br">256</td> -<td class="tdr">270</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl br">9 point</td> -<td class="tdr br">107</td> -<td class="tdr br">117</td> -<td class="tdr br">128</td> -<td class="tdr br">139</td> -<td class="tdr br">149</td> -<td class="tdr br">160</td> -<td class="tdr br">171</td> -<td class="tdr br">181</td> -<td class="tdr br">192</td> -<td class="tdr br">203</td> -<td class="tdr">213</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl br">10 point</td> -<td class="tdr br">86</td> -<td class="tdr br">95</td> -<td class="tdr br">104</td> -<td class="tdr br">112</td> -<td class="tdr br">121</td> -<td class="tdr br">129</td> -<td class="tdr br">138</td> -<td class="tdr br">147</td> -<td class="tdr br">155</td> -<td class="tdr br">164</td> -<td class="tdr">173</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl br">11 point</td> -<td class="tdr br">71</td> -<td class="tdr br">79</td> -<td class="tdr br">86</td> -<td class="tdr br">93</td> -<td class="tdr br">100</td> -<td class="tdr br">107</td> -<td class="tdr br">114</td> -<td class="tdr br">121</td> -<td class="tdr br">128</td> -<td class="tdr br">136</td> -<td class="tdr">143</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl br bbd">12 point</td> -<td class="tdr br bbd">60</td> -<td class="tdr br bbd">66</td> -<td class="tdr br bbd">72</td> -<td class="tdr br bbd">78</td> -<td class="tdr br bbd">84</td> -<td class="tdr br bbd">90</td> -<td class="tdr br bbd">96</td> -<td class="tdr br bbd">102</td> -<td class="tdr br bbd">108</td> -<td class="tdr br bbd">114</td> -<td class="tdr bbd">120</td> -</tr> -</table> -<br> - - -<table class="autotable fs80"> -<tr> -<td class="tdl br bb bt"></td> -<td class="tdr br bb bt">21</td> -<td class="tdr br bb bt">22</td> -<td class="tdr br bb bt">23</td> -<td class="tdr br bb bt">24</td> -<td class="tdr br bb bt">25</td> -<td class="tdr br bb bt">26</td> -<td class="tdr br bb bt">27</td> -<td class="tdr br bb bt">28</td> -<td class="tdr br bb bt">29</td> -<td class="tdr bb bt">30</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl br">6 point</td> -<td class="tdr br">504</td> -<td class="tdr br">528</td> -<td class="tdr br">552</td> -<td class="tdr br">576</td> -<td class="tdr br">600</td> -<td class="tdr br">624</td> -<td class="tdr br">648</td> -<td class="tdr br">672</td> -<td class="tdr br">696</td> -<td class="tdr">720</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl br">7 point</td> -<td class="tdr br">371</td> -<td class="tdr br">388</td> -<td class="tdr br">406</td> -<td class="tdr br">424</td> -<td class="tdr br">441</td> -<td class="tdr br">459</td> -<td class="tdr br">477</td> -<td class="tdr br">494</td> -<td class="tdr br">512</td> -<td class="tdr">529</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl br">8 point</td> -<td class="tdr br">283</td> -<td class="tdr br">297</td> -<td class="tdr br">310</td> -<td class="tdr br">324</td> -<td class="tdr br">337</td> -<td class="tdr br">351</td> -<td class="tdr br">364</td> -<td class="tdr br">378</td> -<td class="tdr br">391</td> -<td class="tdr">405</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl br">9 point</td> -<td class="tdr br">224</td> -<td class="tdr br">235</td> -<td class="tdr br">246</td> -<td class="tdr br">256</td> -<td class="tdr br">267</td> -<td class="tdr br">277</td> -<td class="tdr br">288</td> -<td class="tdr br">299</td> -<td class="tdr br">309</td> -<td class="tdr">320</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl br">10 point</td> -<td class="tdr br">181</td> -<td class="tdr br">190</td> -<td class="tdr br">199</td> -<td class="tdr br">207</td> -<td class="tdr br">216</td> -<td class="tdr br">225</td> -<td class="tdr br">233</td> -<td class="tdr br">242</td> -<td class="tdr br">250</td> -<td class="tdr">259</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl br">11 point</td> -<td class="tdr br">150</td> -<td class="tdr br">157</td> -<td class="tdr br">164</td> -<td class="tdr br">171</td> -<td class="tdr br">178</td> -<td class="tdr br">185</td> -<td class="tdr br">192</td> -<td class="tdr br">200</td> -<td class="tdr br">207</td> -<td class="tdr">214</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl br bbd">12 point</td> -<td class="tdr br bbd">126</td> -<td class="tdr br bbd">132</td> -<td class="tdr br bbd">138</td> -<td class="tdr br bbd">144</td> -<td class="tdr br bbd">150</td> -<td class="tdr br bbd">156</td> -<td class="tdr br bbd">162</td> -<td class="tdr br bbd">168</td> -<td class="tdr br bbd">174</td> -<td class="tdr bbd">180</td> -</tr> -</table> - -</div> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="TEST_QUESTIONS">TEST QUESTIONS</h2> -</div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">List No. I</span></h3> - - - -<table class="autotable"> -<tr> -<td class="tdrn">1.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">Describe the keyboard and magazine escapement action</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">on models 5 and 8.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdrn">2.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">How is the rubber roll taken out and cleaned? Why</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">does the rubber roll shaft have a friction drive?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdrn">3.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">How are the keyboard cam frames taken off?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdrn">4.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">How are the keyboard cams cleaned and oiled?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">5.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">Describe how to take a keyboard off and clean it? Explain</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">in detail.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdrn">6.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">How is a single cam taken out on an old style keyboard</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">cam yoke frame?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdrn">7.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">How is a single cam taken out on the new style keyboard</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">cam yoke frame?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdrn">8.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">What should be done to the triggers before replacing</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">the cam frame? Explain why.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdrn">9.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">State the causes of more than one matrix dropping, or</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">“running away.”</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdrn">10.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">What are the causes of matrices failing to respond to</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr" style="width:10%"></td> -<td class="tdr" style="width:5%"></td> -<td class="tdl" style="width:85%">the touch of the keys?</td> -</tr> -</table> - -<h3><span class="smcap">List No. II</span></h3> - - -<table class="autotable"> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">11.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">How is a verge on a Model 5 removed and a new one</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr" style="width:10%"></td> -<td class="tdr" style="width:5%"></td> -<td class="tdl" style="width:85%">put in? On a Model 8?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">12.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">What operations are gone through to change a magazine</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">on a Model 5? A Model 8? Give them in the</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">proper order. How to change the middle magazine on</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">a Model 8?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">13.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">How is the matrix belt adjusted? What is the difference</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">between the matrix delivery belts on the different</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">models?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">14.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">What adjustments should be made on the assembling</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">elevator, the assembler slide brake and the chute</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">spring?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">15.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">What is the purpose of the assembler star wheel friction?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">What must be done to keep it working properly?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">16.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</span></td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">What gives the line-delivery slide its motion when delivering</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">a line? What controls the speed and how is</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">it adjusted?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">17.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">What releases the line-delivery slide? How is it adjusted?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">18.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">What returns the line-delivery slide to normal position?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">How is it adjusted on both old and new styles?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">19.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">How is the line-delivery slide adjusted when delivering</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">a line?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">20.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">What is meant by “cleaning spacebands,” and how</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">should they be cleaned?</td> -</tr> -</table> - -<h3><span class="smcap">List No. III</span></h3> - -<table class="autotable"> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">21.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">Explain how a spaceband is constructed? How should</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr" style="width:10%"></td> -<td class="tdr" style="width:5%"></td> -<td class="tdl" style="width:85%">a spaceband be placed in a line. Why?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">22.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">How is the spaceband box removed? Explain in detail.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">23.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">What will cause spacebands not to respond?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">24.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">How do the spaceband box pawls get their motion to</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">release the spacebands? Explain in detail.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">25.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">How are the spaceband box pawls adjusted?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">26.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">What prevents the release of two spacebands at one</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">time? How is it adjusted?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">27.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">Describe how the thermostat controls the temperature</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">of the metal, and how it is adjusted.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">28.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">Describe how the metal is heated in an electric pot.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">How is the heat controlled in the various heating</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">units of an electric pot?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">29.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">What care does the electric pot and controller require?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">30.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">What care does the mold require? How would you replace</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">the mold in the disk after having it off?</td> -</tr> -</table> - -<h3><span class="smcap">List No. IV</span></h3> - -<table class="autotable"> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">31.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">At what temperature should the metal be kept?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">32.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">What happens when too much metal is in the pot?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">33.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">What does a slug show when the metal is too hot?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">34.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">What does the slug show when the metal is too cold?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">35.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</span></td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">What does a smooth, bright bottom on a slug indicate?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">36.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">What are some of the causes of a defective face?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">37.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">How should the mouthpiece be cared for?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">38.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">How is the mouthpiece removed on the wedge style</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr" style="width:10%"></td> -<td class="tdr" style="width:5%"></td> -<td class="tdl" style="width:85%">crucible? Screw style models?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">39.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">How is a “stuck” plunger taken out and cleaned?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">40.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">How is the metal pot adjusted? Give all adjustments.</td> -</tr> -</table> - -<h3><span class="smcap">List No. V</span></h3> - -<table class="autotable"> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">41.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">Explain the gas pressure controller.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">42.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">Explain thoroughly the care of the gas burner.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">43.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">What will cause matrix ears to bend in the distributor</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr" style="width:10%"></td> -<td class="tdr" style="width:5%"></td> -<td class="tdl" style="width:85%">box?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">44.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">How is the distributor box lift adjusted?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">45.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">What causes matrices to clog in the distributor box and</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">how are they removed?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">46.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">What will cause two matrices to lift at one time in the</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">distributor box?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">47.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">What will cause matrices to fall in the wrong channel</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">of the magazine, and what is the remedy?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">48.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">Describe the mechanism which drives the distributor</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">screws?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">49.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">Explain the construction and action of the distributor</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">spiral automatic.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">50.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">How is the first elevator adjusted? Give all the adjustments.</td> -</tr> -</table> - - - -<h3><span class="smcap">List No. VI</span></h3> - - - -<table class="autotable"> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">51.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">How is the first elevator connecting link constructed?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr" style="width:10%"></td> -<td class="tdr" style="width:5%"></td> -<td class="tdl" style="width:85%">How is it adjusted, and what is the object of the</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">adjustment?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">52.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">What is the purpose of the pump stop? Explain the</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">action and adjustment of the pump stop.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">53.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">What is the purpose of the first elevator line stop?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">How is it replaced and adjusted?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">54.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</span></td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">Explain the construction of the first elevator two-letter</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">jaws, and how it sometimes prevents the elevator going</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">high enough to allow the line to transfer after</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">having a squirt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">55.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">How should the metal be removed from the first elevator</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">jaw after having a squirt?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">56.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">What part of the first elevator should be kept perfectly</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">clean and free from oil?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">57.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">What action has the recasting block on the first</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">elevator?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">58.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">Describe how a one-letter line is recast.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">59.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">Describe how a two-letter line is recast.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">60.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">What trouble would be caused by the first elevator</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">slide not being adjusted to properly align with the</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">transfer and delivery channels?</td> -</tr> -</table> - - - -<h3><span class="smcap">List No. VII</span></h3> - - - -<table class="autotable"> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">61.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">What adjustments are there for the second elevator?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">62.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">What would cause the second elevator to be held at the</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr" style="width:10%"></td> -<td class="tdr" style="width:5%"></td> -<td class="tdl" style="width:85%">distributor?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">63.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">When the second elevator does not descend, what causes</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">the machine to stop?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">64.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">Give the adjustments of the elevator transfer slide.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">65.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">What is the releasing lever for in the first elevator slide</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">guide, and how is it adjusted?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">66.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">What is the object of the intermediate bar pawl?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">67.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">How may the movement of the transfer and spaceband</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">levers be interfered with?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">68.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">How does locking the spaceband transfer lever stop the</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">machine?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">69.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">How does the spaceband transfer lever get its motion</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">and how is it adjusted?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">70.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">When does the automatic safety pawl act?</td> -</tr> -</table> - -<h3><span class="smcap">List No. VIII</span></h3> - -<table class="autotable"> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">71.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">Describe the method and order that should be followed</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr" style="width:10%"></td> -<td class="tdr" style="width:5%"></td> -<td class="tdl" style="width:85%">in making a complete change of the machine from</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">one size to another.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">72.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</span></td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">How are the mold liners marked to distinguish size?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">73.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">How is the ejector blade held in place?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">74.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">What will cause a slug to be pushed out of a galley</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">when being ejected?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">75.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">What is the purpose of the buffer spring in the ejector</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">slide?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">76.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">What is the ejector-blade guide for, and what care does</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">it require?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">77.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">What makes a slug higher on one end than on the other?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">78.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">How is the back knife adjusted? Explain in detail.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">79.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">How is a micrometer read?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">80.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">What is “type high”?</td> -</tr> -</table> - - - -<h3><span class="smcap">List No. IX</span></h3> - - - -<table class="autotable"> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">81.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">Explain in detail how the trimming knives are adjusted.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">82.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">What causes slugs to be off their feet, or lift, when</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">locking-up?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">83.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">What part of an inch is a type founders point? What</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">part of an inch is a linotype point?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">84.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">How are the decimal points of a slug found?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">85.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">When can the vise be opened to first position?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">86.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">When can the vise be opened to second position?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">87.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">Explain the construction of the main friction clutch.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">88.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">How is the collar connected to the clutch rod?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">89.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">What is the difference between the new and the old</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr" style="width:10%"></td> -<td class="tdr" style="width:5%"></td> -<td class="tdl" style="width:85%">style clutch adjustment?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">90.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">How is the main driving clutch adjusted? Give the</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">seven adjustments affecting the clutch.</td> -</tr> -</table> - -<h3><span class="smcap">List No. X</span></h3> - -<table class="autotable"> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">91.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">In what position should the starting lever be when</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr" style="width:10%"></td> -<td class="tdr" style="width:5%"></td> -<td class="tdl" style="width:85%">making the adjustments on the friction clutch?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">92.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">What care should be given to the main friction clutch?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">93.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">How can you determine when the clutch is slipping?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">94.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">Give causes for the slipping of the clutch, and how</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">you would remedy them.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">95.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</span></td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">What is the action of the automatic safety pawl when</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">striking the upper stopping lever, and how does it</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">effect the clutch to stop the machine?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">96.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">State the purpose of the vise automatic, and tell how</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">it is adjusted.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">97.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">How is the vise automatic adjustment tested?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">98.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">How are the matrix toes sheared when the vise automatic</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">is out of adjustment?</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">99.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">How is the mold slide adjusted? Give all adjustments.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr">100.</td> -<td class="tdl" colspan="2">Describe the machine action from the time a line is in</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdl">the assembling elevator until it has been distributed.</td> -</tr> -</table> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="MECHANISM_CLASS_SCHEDULE">MECHANISM CLASS SCHEDULE</h2> -</div> - -<h3>(<em>Lesson Index</em>)</h3> - - -<p class="fs80">The following class schedule was designed for one-hour class -periods. It has been found from experience that the lessons may be -covered in approximately one-hour class periods, except No. 20. Additional -study of each lesson will be found profitable where time permits.</p> - - -<table class="autotable fs80"> -<tr> -<td class="tdr" style="width:5%"></td> -<td class="tdr" style="width:80%"></td> -<td class="tdr" style="width:15%">PAGES</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr" style="vertical-align: top;">1.</td> -<td class="tdl">Keyboard, construction and action; taking off keyboard cam frames; cleaning and oiling keyboard cams,</td> -<td class="tdr" style="vertical-align: bottom;">3-10</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr" style="vertical-align: top;">2.</td> -<td class="tdl">Taking off keyboard; taking apart and cleaning,</td> -<td class="tdr" style="vertical-align: bottom;">10-12</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr" style="vertical-align: top;">3.</td> -<td class="tdl">Keyrods, escapements, magazines of various models,</td> -<td class="tdr" style="vertical-align: bottom;">12-25</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr" style="vertical-align: top;">4.</td> -<td class="tdl">Assembling elevator, assembler, assembler slide, assembler slide brake,</td> -<td class="tdr" style="vertical-align: bottom;">25-33</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr" style="vertical-align: top;">5.</td> -<td class="tdl">Spaceband box; delivery slide,</td> -<td class="tdr" style="vertical-align: bottom;">33-42</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr" style="vertical-align: top;">6.</td> -<td class="tdl">Metal pot, mouthpiece, metal pot adjustments,</td> -<td class="tdr" style="vertical-align: bottom;">42-52</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr" style="vertical-align: top;">7.</td> -<td class="tdl">Pot lever; gasoline and gas burners; pressure, mercury, and thermostat governors,</td> -<td class="tdr" style="vertical-align: bottom;">52-61</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr" style="vertical-align: top;">8.</td> -<td class="tdl">Electric pot,</td> -<td class="tdr" style="vertical-align: bottom;">61-68</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr" style="vertical-align: top;">9.</td> -<td class="tdl">Molds,</td> -<td class="tdr" style="vertical-align: bottom;">68-73</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr" style="vertical-align: top;">10.</td> -<td class="tdl">Distributor bar, channel entrance, distributor screws, distributor clutch plate and stopping bar, distributor clutch; construction of spiral automatic,</td> -<td class="tdr" style="vertical-align: bottom;">73-80</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr" style="vertical-align: top;">11.</td> -<td class="tdl">Distributor box; matrix lift cam,</td> -<td class="tdr" style="vertical-align: bottom;">80-87</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr" style="vertical-align: top;">12.</td> -<td class="tdl">First elevator slide and adjustments; first elevator jaws; construction of the connecting link,</td> -<td class="tdr" style="vertical-align: bottom;">87-94</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr" style="vertical-align: top;">13.</td> -<td class="tdl">Second elevator and adjustments; main cams,</td> -<td class="tdr" style="vertical-align: bottom;">94-98</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr" style="vertical-align: top;">14.</td> -<td class="tdl">First elevator slide guide; transfer slide adjustments; spaceband lever, pawl, and turnbuckle,</td> -<td class="tdr" style="vertical-align: bottom;">98-101</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr" style="vertical-align: top;">15.</td> -<td class="tdl">Mold slide; lever and slide; mold disk locking studs and blocks; ejector slide and blade; universal ejector,</td> -<td class="tdr" style="vertical-align: bottom;">101-107</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr" style="vertical-align: top;">16.</td> -<td class="tdl">Mold knife adjustments; adjustments of trimming knives; knife wiper,</td> -<td class="tdr" style="vertical-align: bottom;">107-114</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr" style="vertical-align: top;">17.</td> -<td class="tdl">Mold gear arm; mold turning cam; square block; justification levers; vise, vise jaws, pump stop,</td> -<td class="tdr" style="vertical-align: bottom;">114-122</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr" style="vertical-align: top;">18.</td> -<td class="tdl">Driving shaft, friction clutch and adjustments, vertical lever, upper and lower stopping levers, automatic stopping and safety pawls, stay bolt,</td> -<td class="tdr" style="vertical-align: bottom;">122-127</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr" style="vertical-align: top;">19.</td> -<td class="tdl">Vise automatic; filling piece and safety lug,</td> -<td class="tdr" style="vertical-align: bottom;">127-130</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdr" style="vertical-align: top;">20.</td> -<td class="tdl">Dismantling and reassembling, under the supervision of the instructor</td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -</tr> -</table> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="Index"><em>Index</em></h2> -</div> - - -<ul class="index fs80"> -<li class="ifrst">          PAGE</li> - -<li class="indx">Adjustable Mold, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>-em, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Advertising Figures, <a href="#Page_132">132</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Advertising Mold, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Assembler, <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Assembler Slide, <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Assembler Slide Brake, <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Assembler Troubles, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Assembling Elevator, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Assembling Elevator, to Take Off, <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Auxiliary Lever, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Auxiliary Magazines, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Burner, Gas, <a href="#Page_55">55</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Burner, Gasoline, <a href="#Page_55">55</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Banking Strips, Mold, <a href="#Page_109">109</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Cams, Main, <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Carbolite Mold, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Care of Electric Metal Pot, <a href="#Page_65">65</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Care of the Machine, <a href="#Page_133">133</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Causes of Bad Assembling, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Channel Entrance, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Chute Spring, <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Class Schedule, Mechanism, <a href="#Page_149">149</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cleaning a Magazine, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cleaning Matrices, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cleaning the Throat of Crucible, <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Connecting Link, First Elevator Slide, <a href="#Page_92">92</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cracked Crucible, <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Current Consumption, <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Display Molds, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Distributor, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Distributor Bar, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Distributor Box, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Distributor Box, Lower, Models 2 and 4, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Distributor Box, to Remove, <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Distributor Box Matrix Lift Cam, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Distributor Clutch, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Distributor Screws, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Distributor Screw Guard, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Distributor Spiral Automatic, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Distributor Stopping Mechanism, <a href="#Page_77">77</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Distributor Troubles, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Duplex Rails, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Duplex Rail Operating Blocks, <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Ejector Blade, <a href="#Page_105">105</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ejector Blade, to Change, <a href="#Page_105">105</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ejector Guide Block, <a href="#Page_105">105</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ejector Slide, <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ejector, the Universal, <a href="#Page_106">106</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Electric Metal Pot, Care of, <a href="#Page_65">65</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Electric Pot, <a href="#Page_62">62</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Electric Pot Definitions, <a href="#Page_61">61</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Elevator, Second, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ems to Running Inch, <a href="#Page_142">142</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Escapement Mechanism, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Facts and Suggestions About Trimming Knives, <a href="#Page_112">112</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Failure of Matrices to Respond (See Keyboard Troubles), <a href="#Page_7">7</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Failure of Matrices to Respond (due to Troubles Above the Keyboard), <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Filling Piece, First Elevator, <a href="#Page_130">130</a></li> - -<li class="indx">First Elevator Jaws, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li> - -<li class="indx">First Elevator Jaws and Slide, <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li> - -<li class="indx">First Elevator Jaw Line Stop, <a href="#Page_92">92</a></li> - -<li class="indx">First Elevator Slide Connecting Link 92</li> - -<li class="indx">First Elevator Slide Guide, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Friction Clutch, <a href="#Page_122">122</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Friction Clutch Adjustments, <a href="#Page_123">123</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Friction Clutch Hints, <a href="#Page_126">126</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Fuses, <a href="#Page_68">68</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Gas Burner, <a href="#Page_55">55</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Gas Burners, to Remove, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Gas Pot Hints, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Gasoline Burner, <a href="#Page_55">55</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Governor, Mercury Gas, <a href="#Page_59">59</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Governor, Pressure, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Governor, Thermostat Gas, <a href="#Page_59">59</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Headletter Mold, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Hints, Friction Clutch, <a href="#Page_126">126</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Hints, Gas Pot, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Hints, Magazine, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Hints, Mold, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Justification Levers, <a href="#Page_118">118</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Keyboard, <a href="#Page_3">3</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Keyboard, to Take Apart, <a href="#Page_10">10</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Keyboard Parts, <a href="#Page_4">4</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Keyboard Cams, Cleaning the, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Keyboard Cams and Parts, <a href="#Page_4">4</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Keyboard Cam, to Remove, <a href="#Page_6">6</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Keyboard Cam Frames, to Remove, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Keyboard Layout, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Keyboard Rubber Rolls, <a href="#Page_6">6</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Keyboard Troubles, <a href="#Page_7">7</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Keyrods, <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Keyrods, Auxiliary, <a href="#Page_13">13</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Knife Block, <a href="#Page_109">109</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Knife Block, Wedge Style, <a href="#Page_111">111</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Knife, Mold, <a href="#Page_107">107</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Knife Spring Plate, <a href="#Page_111">111</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Knife Wiper, <a href="#Page_113">113</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Knife Wiper, Old Style, <a href="#Page_114">114</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Knives, Trimming, <a href="#Page_109">109</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Line Delivery Slide, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Line Stop, First Elevator Jaw, <a href="#Page_92">92</a></li> - -<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</span>Locking Studs and Blocks, <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Magazines, <a href="#Page_15">15</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Magazines, Auxiliary, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Magazines and Escapements, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Magazine, Cleaning a, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Magazine Channel Entrance, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Magazine Hints, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Magazines, Split, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Magazine, Removing a, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Magazines, Removing, New Models, <a href="#Page_8">8</a> and 14-s-k, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Main Cams, <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Making Machine Changes, <a href="#Page_132">132</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Matrix Carrier Belt, <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Matrices, Cleaning, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mechanism Class Schedule, <a href="#Page_149">149</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mechanical Terms, <a href="#Page_136">136</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mercury Gas Governor, <a href="#Page_59">59</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Metal Pot, <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Metal Pot Adjustments, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Metal Pot Plunger, <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Metal Pot, Removing a, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Micrometer Caliper, <a href="#Page_140">140</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Model K, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Model L, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Model 14, Single Keyboard, <a href="#Page_13">13</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Model 9, <a href="#Page_130">130</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Molds, <a href="#Page_68">68</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mold, Universal Adjustable, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mold, Recessed, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mold, Display and Headletter, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mold, Advertising, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mold, Carbolite, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mold, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>-em Adjustable, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mold Turning Cam Adjusting Shoes, <a href="#Page_115">115</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mold Banking Strips, <a href="#Page_109">109</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mold Disk Locking Studs and Blocks, 104</li> - -<li class="indx">Mold Driving Shaft Friction Clamp, <a href="#Page_116">116</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mold Gears, Retiming, <a href="#Page_116">116</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mold Hints, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mold Knife, <a href="#Page_107">107</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mold, Removing and Replacing, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mold Slide, <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mold Turning Cam, Square Block, and Pinion, <a href="#Page_114">114</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mold Wipers, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mouthpieces, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mouthpiece, to Remove a, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Plunger, Metal Pot, <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pressure Governor, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Point System, <a href="#Page_141">141</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pot, Electric, <a href="#Page_62">62</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pot Lever, <a href="#Page_52">52</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pot Returning Cam Shoe, <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pump Stop, <a href="#Page_121">121</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Questions, Test, <a href="#Page_143">143</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Recessed Mold, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Releasing Lever, <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Removing a Pot, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Removing a Magazine, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Removing a Magazine, New Model 8 and 14-s-k, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Retiming Mold Gears, <a href="#Page_116">116</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Safety Lug, Mold Disk, <a href="#Page_130">130</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Second Elevator Safety Catch, <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Second Elevator, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Second Elevator Starting Spring, <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Slug Troubles, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Spacebands, the, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Spaceband Box, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Spaceband Box, to Remove, <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Spaceband Box Pawls, to Replace, <a href="#Page_38">38</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Spaceband Box Pawls and Rails, <a href="#Page_38">38</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Spaceband Lever, <a href="#Page_100">100</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Spaceband Lever Pawl, <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Spaceband Troubles, <a href="#Page_37">37</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Spiral Automatic, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Split Magazines, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Spring Plate, Knife, <a href="#Page_111">111</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Stay Bolt, <a href="#Page_127">127</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Star Wheel, <a href="#Page_29">29</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Stuck Slug, Removing a, <a href="#Page_107">107</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Tabular Attachment, <a href="#Page_131">131</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Test Questions, <a href="#Page_143">143</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Things You Should Know, <a href="#Page_138">138</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Transfer Slide, <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Trimming Knives, Facts and Suggestions, <a href="#Page_112">112</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Trimming Knives, <a href="#Page_109">109</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Troubles, Distributor, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Troubles, Slug, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Thermostat Gas Governor, <a href="#Page_59">59</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Throat and Mouthpiece Heaters (Electric), <a href="#Page_64">64</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Universal Adjustable Mold, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Universal Ejector, <a href="#Page_106">106</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Verge, to Remove a, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Vise, the, <a href="#Page_119">119</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Vise Automatic, <a href="#Page_127">127</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Vise Jaws, <a href="#Page_121">121</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Vise Justification, <a href="#Page_118">118</a></li> -</ul> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - - -<div class="transnote"> -<h2>Transcriber’s Notes</h2> - -<ul> -<li>pg 13 Changed: On the later models 1<br> -<span style="padding-left: 2em">to: On the later model 1</span></li> -<li>pg 26 Changed: there is assembled in the front<br> -<span style="padding-left: 2em">to: there are assembled in the front</span></li> -<li>pg 28 Changed: pull the gib off dowel pins<br> -<span style="padding-left: 2em">to: pull the gib off dowel the pins</span></li> -<li>pg 30 Changed: remove the chute spring, if the new style, release<br> -<span style="padding-left: 2em">to: removing the chute spring, if the new style, releasing</span></li> -<li>pg 32 Changed: the operating lever when raised<br> -<span style="padding-left: 2em">to: the operating lever, when raised</span></li> -<li>pg 33 Changed: properly, worn detaining plates.<br> -<span style="padding-left: 2em">to: properly, or worn detaining plates.</span></li> -<li>pg 33 Changed: bind; assembler slide worn or dirty<br> -<span style="padding-left: 2em">to: bind; or assembler slide worn or dirty</span></li> -<li>pg 40 Added period after: elevator is raised to send in a line</li> -<li>pg 49 Changed: lips of the crucible, by driving<br> -<span style="padding-left: 2em">to: lips of the crucible by driving</span></li> -<li>pg 51 Changed plunger pin has been removed, to prevent accidentaly to: accidentally</li> -<li>pg 57 Changed The hole can be peaned to: peened</li> -<li>pg 63 Changed controlled by an adjustable dynamic therometer to: thermometer</li> -<li>pg 68 Changed have a flexibility that requires a varitey to: variety</li> -<li>pg 70 Changed The cap is construsted to: constructed</li> -<li>pg 70 Changed The groves in the cap to: grooves</li> -<li>pg 75 Added the word “the” to: screws are in front of “the” distributor</li> -<li>pg 81 Changed drawn out a little by peaning to: peening</li> -<li>pg 84 Changed annoyance and lost time is causd to: caused</li> -<li>pg 91 Changed The duplex rail sometimes become to: becomes</li> -<li>pg 106 Changed starting and stopping lever and is conected to: connected</li> -<li>pg 108 Changed: is should scrape the lead from the mold.<br> -<span style="padding-left: 2em">to: it should scrape the lead from the mold.</span></li> -<li>pg 109 Changed allows for a range form to: from</li> -<li>pg 112 Changed adjustment if dirt or gum interfers to: interferes</li> -<li>pg 115 Removed repeated word from: cam and bank against the the shoes.</li> -<li>pg 129 Changed forced out of action by the vise matic to: automatic</li> -<li>pg 130 Changed interchangeable magazines, any-one to: any one</li> -<li>pg 131 Changed operated by the usual keyboard machanism to: mechanism</li> -<li>pg 135 Changed Test the vice-automatic to: vise-automatic.</li> -<li>pg 139 Changed Do not change adjustments everytime to: every time</li> -<li>pg 140 Changed The speed of the machine should be uniform at all tims to: times</li> -<li>pg 140 Changed for flucuations will interfere to: fluctuations</li> -<li>pg 143 Removed extra quote from: one matrix dropping, or ‘“running away.”</li> -<li>pg 143 Changed gone through to change a magzine to: magazine</li> -<li>pg 143 Changed: How are the rubber roll taken out<br> -<span style="padding-left: 2em">to: How is the rubber roll taken out</span></li> -<li>pg 143 Changed: How change the middle magazine<br> -<span style="padding-left: 2em">to: How to change the middle magazine</span></li> -<li>pg 144 Changed: How adjusted on both old and new styles<br> -<span style="padding-left: 2em">to: How is it adjusted on both old and new styles</span></li> -<li>pg 145 Changed: How replaced and adjusted<br> -<span style="padding-left: 2em">to: How is it replaced and adjusted</span></li> -<li>pg 145 Changed What does a smoth, bright bottom on a slug indicate to: smooth</li> -<li>pg 145 Changed Explain throughly the care of the gas burner. to: thoroughly</li> -<li>pg 151 Added word the to: keylevers; the keybar banking bar</li> -<li>Normalized spelling of vice to vise throughout book.</li> -</ul> - 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