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diff --git a/old/69975-0.txt b/old/69975-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 7cd87d6..0000000 --- a/old/69975-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7378 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of Linotype mechanism, by Alvin G. Swank - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: Linotype mechanism - -Authors: Alvin G. Swank - Raymond Means - -Release Date: February 7, 2023 [eBook #69975] - -Language: English - -Produced by: Bob Taylor, deaurider and the Online Distributed - Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was - produced from images generously made available by The - Internet Archive) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LINOTYPE MECHANISM *** - - - - - - Transcriber’s Note - Italic text displayed as: _italic_ - - - - - LINOTYPE MECHANISM - - - By ALVIN G. SWANK and - RAYMOND MEANS - - - Published by - SWANK AND MEANS - 729 N. Bosart Ave. - Indianapolis, Indiana - - - - - COPYRIGHTED 1924 - PRINTED IN U. S. A. - - - - -_Preface_ - - -Changes and improvements on the Linotype have been frequent in the -past, and will probably continue to be so in the future. For this -reason students, operators, machinists, and owners should keep -themselves posted on all matters pertaining to the Linotype. The only -way this can be accomplished is by reading, studying, and observing. -All books, pamphlets, or trade journals dealing with printing should -be carefully read, and the articles pertaining to improvements on -typesetting machinery should be carefully studied. Pamphlets or trade -journals will either be discarded or lost; whereas a book will be -placed on the desk, bench, or in the pocket of the one who desires to -be well informed of things dealing with the machine. Frequent reading -or reference will refresh the memory on minor points forgotten or -overlooked. - -This book has been produced as an endeavor to furnish a much-needed -text or reference book for the aid of the Linotype student, the user, -and the experienced worker. Simple terms, which will enable the -student to grasp the fundamentals quickly, have been used throughout -the book, but when the name of a part is necessary, the catalog name -is used. No illustrations are used, as the book is intended for use -where the actual machine is available for study, and the parts may be -seen. The main parts of the machine are listed with a description of -their action and function. Mechanical troubles that are common to the -Linotype are mentioned, together with helpful suggestions for their -remedy. All adjustments necessary to the proper care of the machine -are listed. The user of Linotypes will find helpful hints as to the -care and adjustments of the machines. - -In the schools using machines, this book will fill a long-felt want. -It is the first attempt to write a text book of this nature that can -be used in lesson form. The class schedule will lead the student to -a systematic study of the machine. The text matter is so arranged -that the student is led in a natural way through the things he should -know first. With the schedule arrangement the instructor is enabled -to arrange his mechanism classes at any hour or as many hours as he -desires. - - - - -THE KEYBOARD - - -The linotype keyboard is power driven and mechanically operated, the -operator merely touching the keybutton lightly to get a matrix. The -keyboard and escapement mechanism consists of ninety-one mechanical -units, or series of levers, escapements, and cams—one series for each -key on the keyboard. - -The keyboard consists of the frame; the keylevers, extending through -the slots to the back of the keyboard frame; the keylever fulcrum -rods, which are the pivot rods for the keylevers; the keybars, that -groove into the rear end of the keylevers; the keybar banking bar, -(fastened to the right- and left-hand keyboard posts), holding the -keybars in place; and the keyboard locking bar. The various parts -of the keyboard are held in their respective places by the keyboard -frame. - -Mounted on the top, at the rear of the keyboard, are the two cam yoke -frames. The keyboard cam yoke frames contain the cams and the cam -yokes, assembled; the cam yoke triggers; the cam stop strips; the -hinge rods; the keyboard cam rubber roll shafts, with the pulleys or -the gears and friction springs; and the rubber rolls, assembled. The -frames are fastened to the keyboard posts by a screw at each end of -the frame, which extends through the rubber roll shaft brackets. Both -the frames are equipped with cover pans. - -The keyboard action for releasing a matrix from the magazine is as -follows: When the keybutton is depressed it lowers the outer end of -the keylever, raising the back end. The keylever raises the keybar. -The keybar raises the lower end of the trigger, causing the upper end -to tilt. This allows the free end of the cam yoke to drop, causing -the cam to engage the revolving rubber roll. The cam is revolved by -the rubber roll, and as it reaches the high point it raises the free -end of the cam yoke. This end of the cam yoke engages the keyrod and -causes it to be raised. The keyrod operates the escapement mechanism -in the magazine and releases the matrix. - - -KEYBOARD PARTS - -The keylevers extend through slots in the keyboard frame and are -pivoted near their center by the fulcrum rods. The front end of the -keylevers carry the keybuttons and the back ends fit into notches in -the keybars. - -The keybars are held in place on the back of the keyboard by the -banking bar and the upper and lower keybar guides. The keybars have -notches on the upper end into which the triggers set. Also there are -notches into which the keylevers extend. These notches are cut at -different points on each six keybars, to correspond with the point at -which the keylever protrudes through the frame. - -On the late model machines the keybars are made with notches so they -will fit in any alternate position, each bar having three notches, -any one of which will register with the keylever. In removing the -bars for cleaning, always take them off in groups of six and keep -them in order so that no difficulty will be experienced in replacing -them. It is always better to replace each bar in its original place -after having them off. - -The keyboard locking bar extends across the back of the keyboard, -just above a shoulder on the keybars. When this bar is forced down it -prevents the keybar from being raised, thus locking the keyboard. - - -KEYBOARD CAMS AND PARTS - -The keyboard cams are small, brass, non-circular or eccentric pieces -and are used to raise the cam yokes to operate the keyrods. The cams -are pivoted and held in place in cam yokes. The outer end of the cam -yokes are pivoted to the frame, while the inner ends are left free -to move up or down in slots in the frame, directly underneath the -keyrods. - -When the cams are setting at normal, the free end of the yokes are -supported by the pivoted triggers, which set directly beneath the -yokes. When a trigger is moved by the keybar, it allows the free end -of the yoke to drop, carrying the cam against the revolving rubber -roll. The low part of the cam has small teeth cut in it, so when it -drops on the revolving rubber roll, it is caused to turn. When the -high part of the revolving cam is on the rubber roll, the free end of -the cam yoke is raised to its highest point, raising the keyrod. - -There are ninety-one cams and yokes in a keyboard. In order to get -the cams in the smallest possible space, forty-five of them are -located in the front frame, and forty-six in the back frame. The -cam on the right-hand end of the back row is used to operate the -spaceband lever. - -A stop strip is fastened by means of six screws to each cam frame in -such a manner that the small cross pins in the revolving cams come -in contact with small pins which extend downward, stopping the cams -after their revolution and holding them in normal position. The front -strip has forty-five teeth and the rear strip has forty-six teeth; -therefore they are not interchangeable. The strip should be located -so the teeth do not bind the sides of the cams. - -The top row of keys on the keyboard operate the cams in the back -frame, the keys in the second row operate the cams in the front -frame, the third in the back, etc., alternating for each row, so when -tracing keyboard troubles it is known in which frame an offending cam -will be found. - -Several types of cam yokes have been manufactured for the various -models of machines. Some are made of brass, others are stamped out -of steel, while still another kind is milled out of a solid piece of -steel. Different methods of fastening the pivoted end of the yoke -have also been used. The older models were held by a pivot wire -which ran through the yoke. The later models, however, have spring -bars which set just above the pivoted end of the yoke, the yoke -being hooked on the hinge rod and held down by a spring and plunger -directly above the yoke, in the bar. This spring and plunger takes -the strain off the yoke and keyrod when in an unusually heavy pull, -and prevents damage to the rubber rolls. - -On the top of the spring bar is an adjusting screw bushing through -which the plunger projects. This plunger is forced against the top -of the cam yoke by a spring. As the free end of the cam yoke raises, -the spring must be strong enough to hold the pivoted end of the yoke -from raising more than enough to give the full stroke of the keyrod. -If something prevents the free movement of the escapement, the strain -would come to the pivoted end of the yoke, forcing the plunger up, -thus releasing the keyrod, cam, or rubber roll of undue strain. -If this spring becomes weak, it will allow the pivoted end of the -yoke to raise too high, thus lessening the up stroke of the keyrod. -This shortened stroke of the keyrod does not permit the full stroke -operation of the escapement, and does not allow the matrix to drop. - -A weak spring will sometimes cause the matrix to drop slowly, due -to the lug of the matrix binding on the lower pawl. By using the -adjusting bushing this trouble can be remedied. Be careful in -adjusting the spring, because too much tension will cause the cam to -cut the rubber roll. - -On some models the spaceband cam is of a different shape or larger -than the other cams. This is done to accomplish the timing of the -dropping of the spacebands. - -To remove a single cam from the frame, shut off the power of the -machine, take off the cover pans, touch the keybutton of the desired -cam, draw out the pivot wire on old models or release the latch and -tilt the spring bar on new models, turn the rubber rolls by hand -until the end of the cam yoke raises, then lift the yoke and cam out. - - -KEYBOARD RUBBER ROLLS - -The rubber rolls are held on shafts which extend through the cam -frame. The right end of the shafts run in bushings which are held -in the cam frame by a screw extending through the cam frame bracket -into the shaft bushing. Two kinds of rubber rolls may be obtained: -corrugated and ground. The rolls must be kept free from oil at all -times. About once each month they should be removed and washed with -soap and water to remove all oil, and freshen the rubber. The rubber -roll may be livened up by the use of course sandpaper, rubbing from -end to end and turning the roll so it does not become flat. The roll -should be washed after using the sandpaper to remove the small -particles of rubber that may be adhering to the surface. - -If the rubber rolls become worn until they are grooved where the cams -operate on them, or if they become hard with long use, they should -be replaced with new rubber. Good, live rubber rolls have much to do -with quick, even response of the matrices. - -A rubber roll that is in good shape with the exception of a groove -or two, can be used by cutting out the worn parts and placing in a -good piece of another roll and fitting it to the shaft. Save parts of -old rubber rolls for this purpose. They at least may be valuable for -emergency patching, until a new roll can be ordered from the factory. - -The rubber roll shafts are driven by friction, so that if anything -binds unduly the shaft will stop, preventing damage to the rubber. - -To replace a rubber roll, remove the old roll, polish the shaft, -using care to clean thoroughly. A new roll must fit tightly and if -the shaft is not clean and smooth, it will be hard to force the new -roll on. Place the shaft in an upright position, start the end of the -roll through the pulley end of the shaft. Place your thumb or hand -over the other end of the roll to hold in the air and push down on -the roll until it is in position. - -On the later models the shaft carries a collar, pin, and oil collar -on each end. This assembly must be removed on one end before the roll -can be removed. The collar is held to the shaft by a taper pin and -the oil collar forced over the top of the pin and collar. This oil -collar must be pried off before the pin can be driven out. - - -KEYBOARD TROUBLES - -Many of the mechanical troubles will be found in the keyboard, such -as continuous response or non-response of matrices. - -The keylevers sometimes get gummy or sprung to one side and bind on -the frame, causing a continuous response of matrices. Another cause -for continuous response may often be traced to some foreign substance -such as metal shavings or dirt getting between the keylever and the -frame. - -A large percentage of keyboard troubles can be traced to the keybars. -Most continuous response trouble is due to dirty or sticking keybars. -These bars have several points of contact with other parts, and -frequently a very small particle of dirt or dust will prevent the -proper return of the keybar after being raised. This will hold the -trigger out from under the cam yoke, which will continue to revolve -and cause more than one matrix to drop. This trouble can usually be -remedied by blowing out all dust from around the keybars and then -washing them with gasoline, using a squirt can or brush to apply the -gasoline. Before applying the gasoline, it is best to place a pan or -cloth beneath the keybars to catch the surplus gasoline. - -Be very careful not to get any gasoline on the cams or rubber rolls, -as it will cut the lubrication on the yoke pivot and soften the -rubber roll. After washing the bars, blow the surplus gasoline off -with an air hose or bellows. Keep the air from the keyboard cams as -much as possible, as it has a tendency to dry the oil on the yoke -pivot pins, causing slow moving cams. - -Sometimes the trouble is above the keybar banking bar. In this case -it will be necessary to remove the back cam frame to clean the bars -above the banking bar. - -Should the keyboard locking bar become loose it may drop down a -trifle and, preventing free action of the keybars, make the keyboard -touch heavy. - -In addition to the continuous response caused by the keylever or -keybar, sometimes a dirty and sticking trigger or the trigger hinge -rod being bent will cause this trouble. If one of the pins in the -stop strip or the cam becomes worn or broken, the cam will continue -to revolve. - -Some of the common troubles of non-response might be caused by the -free end of the cam yoke being dirty or gummy, a rusty, gummy, or -bent cam yoke hinge rod, not allowing the cam to drop. A dry cam -pivot will often prevent the cam from turning. A hard or oily rubber -roll will not cause the cam to turn, especially on a cold morning. -A tooth on the stop strip being bent sideways might bind the cam. -Something binding the rubber roll, not allowing it to revolve, -stops all cam response. A dry cam pivot or a sluggish cam will cause -transposition of letters. - -To locate the cause of a non-response, first observe if the keyrod is -moving. If it is, the trouble will probably be found in the magazine -or magazine escapement. If the keyrod does not raise, look for the -trouble in the keyboard. - -Do not take the keyboard apart every time a few matrices fail to -respond correctly. It is much quicker to correct the trouble with the -individual parts that may be bothering. Always locate the cause of -the trouble before attempting to correct it. - - - - -KEYBOARD LAYOUT - - -There are two standard layouts in common use. The one most commonly -used, especially in commercial shops, has the small capital layout -shown on the keybuttons. The fractions run as side sorts when this -layout is used. In the other standard layout the fractions are run -in the keyboard. This is frequently used on newspapers for setting -markets, stock reports, and tables, where a great number of fractions -are used. - -There are a variety of different keyboard layouts for different -classes of work, but no great variation from the standard layout is -advisable. - - - - -TO REMOVE THE KEYBOARD CAM FRAMES - - -Be sure the keyrods are connected to the verges on the models 1, -2, 3, 4, or 5. On the models 1, 2, or 3 the keyboard should not be -locked with the locking bar. - -Take off the cover pans and the cover tray, remove the two screws -that extend through the rubber roll shaft bracket, pull the frame off -dowel pins. - - - - -CLEANING THE KEYBOARD CAMS - - -Whenever the keyboard cams become dirty and several of them are -causing trouble, the entire set should be removed from the frame -and cleaned. Do not take the entire set off, however, every time a -cam fails to act. If there are but a few cams bothering, it is much -quicker to take out these individual cams and clean them. - -The entire set of cams will usually need cleaning and oiling every -three or four months in the average shop. Due to some particular shop -surroundings, this time often varies. - -To clean the cams, remove the keyboard cam frames from the machine; -take out the rubber rolls, assembled; release the pivot end of the -cam yokes and remove the cams. The sides of the cam yokes at each end -and the outer surface of the cam should be thoroughly cleaned. Dry -the cam by wiping with a lintless rag and blowing with an air hose or -bellows. The triggers should then be removed and cleaned. While the -cams and triggers are out of the frame, the frame should be washed -clean. Gasoline or denatured alcohol should be used for washing and -cleaning the various parts. A jeweler’s brush will be found useful in -cleaning the various parts. - -Before replacing the triggers, polish them with graphite and string -them on a pivot wire to make sure that no dirt nor grit has gotten -into the pivot holes during the cleaning. - -Clean the rubber rolls before replacing them. - -Before replacing the cams in the frame the pivots should be oiled. -Use only a good grade of clock or watch oil and put a small drop on -the pivot. A broomstraw or ordinary pen will be found convenient for -applying the oil. Be sure to wipe off all surplus oil to prevent it -being transferred to the rubber rolls. - -NOTE—Before replacing the frames in position on the machine, see -that the bracket screws that extend into the frame at each end are -loose. If the screws draw the brackets too tight, difficulty will -be experienced in seating the brackets to the dowels on the posts. -Be sure to lock the keyboard cam yoke triggers by running a wire -through the upper holes in the triggers. This is done so the triggers -will enter the slots in the keybars. See that all cams are in normal -position. This is necessary so the cam yokes will pass under the -lower end of the keyrods. - - - - -TO TAKE A KEYBOARD APART - - -Whenever it is necessary to take the keyboard apart to clean, it -should be removed from the machine in the following manner: Remove -the keyboard cam frames. Remove the assembling elevator lever. -Procure a strip of wood furniture fifteen inches long, which is the -proper length to just pass inside of the frame posts, fasten a strong -cord to each end of the wood strip, take off the keyboard locking -bar, place the strip of wood along the back of the keybars, bring the -string inside of the side posts to the front of the keyboard. Draw -the two ends of the string tight, so that the strip can not move, -and fasten it to the keylevers. Take out the two keyboard side plate -bracket screws (on each side at the rear of the keyboard frame). Take -out the four keyboard front plate screws. Remove the two screws which -hold the keybar banking bar to the posts and pull the bar off the -dowel pins. Pull the frame toward the front of the machine and lift -it out. Place the frame on a bench or table in a slightly inclined -position with the rear end the higher. Take out the lower row of -keylevers by removing the fulcrum rod. Take off the keybars, keeping -them in their regular order. Take out the remaining keylevers by -removing the fulcrum rods. Wash the keylevers in denatured alcohol -or gasoline, brushing vigorously with a jeweler’s brush the parts -that come in contact with the frame. If there is any corrosion left, -polish the levers with metal polish; wipe them dry with a clean rag. -The keybars should be cleaned in a like manner, but rub each side of -each keybar on a graphite board instead of using metal polish. Wash -the frame of the keyboard thoroughly, and wipe dry. If an air hose is -available, blow all the parts dry with the air. - -When reassembling the keyboard, work upward. Place the lower row -of keylevers in first, run the fulcrum rod through the holes; then -assemble the next rows, using the same procedure for each row. This -method makes it easy to assemble the keylevers. - -After the board has been assembled, test out each key to see that it -is working freely, before replacing the strip of wood. - -When replacing the banking bar the slot in the keybars must fit -over the bar; raise up on all the keybars with the plate extending -underneath them until the banking bar dowel pins fit into the dowel -pin holes. - -It is usually necessary to clean the entire keyboard only once or -twice a year unless the shop conditions around the machine are very -dirty. - - - - -KEYRODS - - -The keyrods rest just above the free end of the keyboard cam -yokes and extend upward to the escapement mechanism. They are the -connection between the escapements and the keyboard cams. On the -models 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, the keyrods are numbered from 1 to 90; -the spaceband being a short rod, it is not necessary for it to be -numbered. They are held in place by two guides. The lower guide -is between the cam frames. On models 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, the upper -guide is directly under the magazine at the front. The object of the -upper guide is to hold the keyrods in place when locking them on the -verges, as they should rest squarely on the verges. - -On the model 1 the upper guides are adjustable sidewise by changing -the position of the brass lug on the right side of the magazine in -which the tongue of the guide fits. In making this adjustment use the -lower case “p” as a guide. On the models 3 and 5 there is a screw -bushing in the right-hand side of the intermediate bracket for the -adjustment of the keyrod upper guide. - -When replacing keyrods in the guides, start at the left-hand side -with the first slot in the bottom guide, but leave the first slot -open in the top guide. This guide slot is for an extra keyrod for use -in the special double “e” attachment which may be applied. - -The keyrods vary in length on the different models. On models 8, 14, -14-s-k, 18, 19, 9, and K the keyrods are very short and are used to -operate a curved lever known as the escapement lever, which in turn -operates the escapement. - -On models 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, the keyrod is pulled back to its proper -position by the keyrod spring. The action of this spring in pulling -the keyrod to position stresses the verge spring and pulls the -escapement into normal, allowing the rear pawl to release the matrix -so it can slide into position to be caught and held by the front -pawl. - -On models K, 8, 14, 14-s-k, 18, 19, and 9 the keyrod is returned -to position by the weight of the escapement lever, and by its own -weight, the verge spring pulling the escapement back into position. - -On the later model 1 the keyrods have a groove near the upper ends -and a supporting rail attached to the upper guide plate which keeps -them from dropping when they are disconnected from the verges. - -On the model 5 this supporting rail is near the bottom end of the -keyrods, just above the keyrod springs, and is connected to a short -handle at the right end above the keyboard. The keyrods can be -disconnected from the verges only when the handle is lifted. - - - - -AUXILIARY KEYRODS - - -On models 14 and 19 there is an auxiliary magazine which has 28 -channels. There are 28 short keyrods assembled the same as on a model -5. These keyrods are operated by an auxiliary keyboard. There is a -supporting rail at the upper end of these keyrods, connected with a -handle at the right side of the auxiliary bracket. The keyrods can -only be disconnected from the verges when the handle is lifted. These -keyrods are disconnected the same as on a model 5 machine. - - - - -MODEL FOURTEEN SINGLE KEYBOARD - - -On the new model 14, known as model 14 single keyboard, there are -34 channels and short keyrods on the auxiliary instead of 28. These -keyrods are operated from the regular keyboard. There is a lug -pressed in the back of the keyrods. These lugs are staggered on the -various keyrods and come in contact with a series of pivoted levers -in a box containing 34 of these levers, fastened at the back of the -keyrods of the main part of the machine. - -The main keyrods, from the figure 1 up to and including the caps (34 -in all), have a lug pressed into the back side of them. These lugs -are also staggered on the keyrods so they can be brought into contact -with the fulcrumed levers in the box. This box is known as a bail -box. - -The upper keyrod guide slots are made longer for these keyrods -to slide back or forth, actuated by a hand lever that is placed -below the assembler entrance and resting on the delivery slideway. -The auxiliary is brought into operation by shoving back on this -lever, which brings the keyrods and lugs in contact with the bail -box levers, and they in turn operate the keyrods of the auxiliary -whenever a key is touched. - - - - -MAGAZINES AND ESCAPEMENTS - - -ESCAPEMENT MECHANISM - -The escapement mechanism of models 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 machines -consists of two pawls, a verge, and a verge spring for each character -in the magazine. The verge is hinged on a pivot rod. The lower end -of the pawls are seated in the verge, and the upper end projects -through the under side of the magazine and engages the lower lugs -of the matrices. When the escapement is at its normal position, the -lower or front pawl extends up into the magazine and holds the column -of matrices in the channel. The end of the upper pawl is flush with -the bottom of the channel groove. The verge and pawls are held in -this position by the keyrod, which hooks onto the verge. This keyrod -is held down by its own weight and a spring near its lower end. The -verge spring, which sets directly back of and against the verge, has -its tension upward on the verge. When the key is touched and the cam -yoke raises the keyrod, it releases the verge, which is pulled upward -by the verge spring. This action lowers the front pawl and raises -the back pawl, releasing the front matrix. The back pawl detains -the other matrices, holding them in the channel until the verge is -restored to normal. The keyrod spring pulls the keyrod down. The -verge, being hooked to the keyrod is pulled down also. This brings -the front pawl up and the back pawl down, letting the matrix slide to -position ready for the next escapement. This verge action is the same -on all single magazine models. - -Each magazine of a model 1, 2, or 3 machine carries the escapement -assembly on the bottom, at the front, directly above the keyrod upper -guide. - -On a model 5 the verge escapement is fastened by means of two screws -and two dowel pins to the intermediate bracket of the machine. To -remove: Take off the magazine and then raise the keyrods with the -hand lever at the right of the keyrods. This will leave the keyrods -free to be pushed back from the verges, by withdrawing the spring -pin which holds the upper keyrod guide to the verge pivot rod at -the right-hand side, under the escapements, and pushing back on the -guide. The escapements can then be removed by taking out the two -screws, one at each end, and lift off the dowel pins. - -The escapement mechanism of models 8, 14, 18, 19, 14-s-k, and K is -similar to the model explained above, except that the verge spring -pulls downward on the verge instead of upward, as in the other -models. The escapement is operated by the escapement lever and a -plunger from the front. The keyrod forces the escapement lever -upward. The lever strikes the plunger and forces it against the verge. - -The model 8 or 14 verge escapements can be removed by raising the -magazine and pushing the escapement back from between the escapement -supports. - - - - -MAGAZINES - - -The magazine is the receptacle in which a font of matrices is stored -on the machine, ready for instant use as the matrices are desired in -assembling a line. Some of the main features of the different model -machines are the number of magazines carried on the machine at one -time, the size or width of the magazine, and the manner of removing -the magazines. - -The magazine or channel plate consists of 92 channels milled in the -brass plates, which guide the lugs of the matrices and keep them in -line, so as to pass the escapements one at a time. Model 1 magazines -have the old style channel entrances, attached to each magazine -frame. The model 1 magazines are narrow, and will only carry matrices -up to and including 11-point. The escapements of this model are -fastened directly to the magazine. - -The magazine for a model 2 or 3 machine is practically the same as a -model 1 in construction, with the exception of being two inches wider -at the lower end. - -The verges on these models are practically the same as on the model -1, but on account of the difference in width of the magazines, are -thicker. In this style the verges are locked by turning the grooved -escapement verge locking bar one-fourth of a turn. This is turned by -the crank at the right-hand side of the magazine. The keyboard is -locked with a bar the same as the model 1. - -The channel entrance is similar to the model 1. - -The lower magazine of the model 2 is shorter than the upper magazine. -The matrices are released by the same keyboard mechanism. The -escapements, however, are on the top of the magazine instead of -beneath it. Each keyrod has a lug fastened to the back end of it, -which engages the escapement levers connected to the escapements. -When the lower magazine is being used, the keyrod is raised and -allows the verge spring to operate the escapement, releasing the -matrix. The keyrod spring pulls the escapement lever down. This lever -brings the escapement into position, ready to release another matrix. - -The escapements on both magazines are capable of movement, as -the verge springs of both tend to raise the escapements, but are -prevented from doing so by the keyrod spring. The matrices are -prevented from escaping from both magazines at the same time by a -pair of grooved rods, which lie between the verges and the magazine. -The locks on these rods are so arranged that the locking of one -escapement unlocks the other, the movement of these being controlled -by a hand lever at the right of the face plate, directly above the -keyboard. - -The model 3 magazine is the same as the model 2 (upper). The -escapement action is also the same. - -The upper magazine of a model 4 is a removable magazine which is -independent of the escapement mechanism or the channel entrance. This -magazine is as wide as the model 2 or 3, but is not interchangeable -with them. This magazine is interchangeable with those of a model 5, -8, 14, 18, 19, or 14-s-k. - -The lower magazine of a model 4 is the same as a model 2, but it -is easily removed from the machine, as the escapement mechanism is -independent of the magazine. - -The escapement on the model 4 is the same as on the model 2, except -that the escapement mechanism is fastened to the machine brackets -instead of to the magazine. - -On models 2 and 4 there are two channels of lower case “e” matrices. -The mechanism for the operation of the double “e” is one keyboard cam -to be connected alternately to the two short keyrods which connect -with the two “e” verges. The shifting of a short keyrod from one to -the other keyrods is accomplished by the raising of the assembling -elevator, which operates a lever fastened to the assembling elevator -link. This link comes in contact with a pawl and ratchet that operate -the short keyrod by shifting alternately. This attachment can be -applied to any model of machine. - -The model 5 is a quick change machine. The magazine changes from the -front and can be lifted off by one person. The escapement mechanism -is separate from the magazine. - -The model 5 magazine is the same as the model 4 and is -interchangeable with any of the above mentioned models except models -1, 2, or 3. - -The No. 5 (English) magazine is now known as the standard magazine. -This magazine is used on all models 4, 5, 8, 14, 14-s-k, 18, and 19 -machines. - -The model 8 machine carries 3 of these No. 5 magazines. All magazines -may be changed from the front of the machine. The magazines are -interchangeable as to their position in the machine. They are also -interchangeable with the same No. 5 magazines on other machines. - -The model 14 is the same as the model 8, except that it has an -auxiliary magazine. - -Model 18, which carries two magazines, uses the same magazines as a -model 5, 8, or 14. The escapements are hung to the magazine frame, -but are like the model 5, 8, or 14 escapements, and are held in place -by two spring clamps that fit over the top of the magazines at the -front. By shifting a lever at the right of the magazine frame, the -position of the magazines is changed. - -The model 19 is the same as the model 18, except that it has an -auxiliary magazine. - - - - -REMOVING A MAGAZINE - - -It is sometimes necessary to remove the magazines of any model of -machine for the purpose of cleaning or repairing, or to change the -type face. - -Read carefully the instructions for the removing of the magazines -until you become thoroughly familiar with the order of procedure. To -forget one operation or to perform an operation at the wrong time may -cause the matrices to be spilled or something more serious. - -To remove a model 1 magazine: Lock the verges by placing the locking -wire above the shoulder of the back pawls, lock the keyboard by -inserting the locking rod in the slotted hole in the right-hand -keyboard post and shove the rod through the full length of the -keyboard. This rod passes under the end of the keyboard cam yokes -and raises them, which raises the keyrods off the verges a trifle. -Unlatch the upper keyrod guide at the right-hand side and move the -keyrods off the verges. Pull the flexible front of the assembler -plate forward as far as the chain permits it to come. Remove the -tray under the rear channel entrance, raise the magazine to a level -position and push it through toward the rear and lift out carefully. -It requires two persons to remove a magazine of this model. - -In returning the magazine be careful that it is moved forward the -full distance before the front end is lowered; or the lift lever of -the distributor box may be damaged. - -To remove the upper magazine from a model 2: Unlatch the connecting -links between the verge locks, throw the verge lock of the upper -magazine down one-fourth of a turn, and slip the sliding block on -the side of the upper magazine downward. This holds the upper verge -lock. Lock the keyboard, and depress the pin beneath the verges of -the upper magazine, at the right. This pin holds the keyrod guide -and keyrods to the verges. Push the guide back and disconnect the -keyrods. The lower end of the upper magazine can now be raised and -the magazine drawn out of the machine at the back. Use care not to -damage the lower magazine or back entrance. - -To remove the lower magazine of a model 2: Remove the upper -magazine, throw the keyrods forward with the lever, draw out the rod -beneath the magazine mouth. This rod holds the matrix guides for the -lower magazine in place. Lift out the magazine, using care not to -damage the escapements or levers. - -To remove the model 5 magazine: Insert the locking strip, pressing -it firmly in place. This bar holds the matrices in the channels. The -bar also releases the lock at the left-hand side of the magazine and -permits the cam levers to be turned or brought forward into position -for holding the magazine. Pull forward the spring lock which fits -over the lower end of the magazine. With the cam levers, raise the -magazine frame. Lift the front end of the magazine and it will slide -forward; then by allowing the lower end to drop, the magazine will -hang in a vertical position on the levers. Close the cover at the top -of the magazine and lift off. - -The above method of locking must be followed with any No. 5 magazine -on any model. - -To remove any of the three magazines from a model 8 or 14 proceed in -the following manner: - -Any magazine should be in operating position before it is removed. - -The upper magazine is removed similarly to a model 5. Place the -locking rod in the magazine to lock the matrices and unlock the catch -at left of the magazine. Take off the bar which extends across the -top side of the magazine. Turn the cam levers forward, and lift the -magazine off. - -To remove the second magazine: Insert the locking bar in the top and -second magazines. Raise the magazines with the elevating mechanism, -as high as they will go. Place the frame supports under the upper -magazine frame. Remove the bar which extends across the top side of -the top magazine. Turn the elevating crank until the frame descends -and the second magazine is in operating position, leaving the upper -magazine elevated. Place the right- and left-hand cams on the second -magazine frame. Lift out the escapements of the upper magazine. Then -proceed as in removing the upper magazine. - -To remove the third magazine: Remove the two upper magazines and take -off the frame cams; take out the eight screws that hold the right- -and left-hand gibs to the frame guides; remove the gibs, using care -not to get them mixed. Remove the two frames from the guides; take -out the two clamps that hold the lower magazine at the rear. Have a -helper stand on the frame of the machine in the rear, and reach over -the top of the distributor beam to assist in lifting the magazine, -while the operator in front gradually raises the magazine clear of -the escapement frame. Take out the escapements by removing the two -screws in the left-hand support and pry it off dowel pin holes. Be -careful to hold the escapement with one hand so it does not drop. - -To remove a magazine from a model 18 or 19: Put the lower magazine -in operating position. Insert the locking strips. Pull the lever -at the left down as far as it will go, which spreads apart the two -magazines. Drop the escapements down by releasing the two spring -clamps that fit over the top of the magazine. The clamp on the left -is fitted with a lock so it can not be dropped unless the locking -strip is all the way through. Fasten the two shoes for the magazine -bar to slide on, in the holes provided for them, and lift off -magazine from the front. Either magazine can be lifted off. - -In making the above changes, be sure you have locked the magazine. In -replacing the magazine on the escapements be sure that the magazine -is seated properly before removing the locking bar. - - -NEW MODEL 8 AND 14 SINGLE KEYBOARD - -These models change practically the same as other models, but the -lower magazine can be changed as easily and quickly as the top or -center magazines. - -This is accomplished by changes in the locating rods, guides, and -elevating screw which permit raising the magazine frames higher, -clearing the assembler plate far enough to slide the lower magazine -out the same as the other two. - -The escapements are hung to the magazine frame in the same manner -as the models 18 and 19, and are held in place by the clamps, but -the latter clamps are tightened by means of screws and knurled knobs -instead of springs. - -To remove a magazine from a late model 8 or 14-s-k: Put the magazine -in operating position next to the one to be changed; if the top one -is to be changed, put the second magazine in operating position; -if the second one, place the lower magazine in position. Lock the -locking strip, drop the escapements down by releasing the two knurled -knob screws that clamp the escapement over the top of the magazine. -Pull the lever at the left down as far as it will go; fasten the two -shoes for the magazine bar to slide on in the lugs provided for them -and lift off the magazine from the front. - - -SPLIT MAGAZINES - -Split magazines can be used on models 8, 14, 14-s-k, 18, 19, 21, -and 22. These magazines are just half the length of the regular -magazines and carry 12 matrices of each character. These magazines -are very handy, where a large amount of changes are made, because of -their lightness. On account of the short fonts carried, they are not -desirable for use below 12-point, except in some job faces. - -These magazines are changed the same as the full length magazines. - - -AUXILIARY MAGAZINES - -Auxiliary magazines are narrow, having only 28 channels, and are -operated by separate auxiliary escapements, keyrods, and keyboard. -They are extensively used for carrying headletter and advertising -fonts, and two-line figures. They can be changed the same as changing -a model 5 magazine. - -The newer style auxiliary, used on the model 14 single keyboard, -is wider and has 34 channels; permitting the use of larger faces -and carrying more of an assortment of characters than the older -model. This magazine is operated by separate keyrods and escapements -connecting with the regular keyboard through the medium of a series -of fulcrumed levers, which can, by the operation of a small lever, be -brought into instant use at will from the regular keyboard. - - -MODEL K - -The model K is a two magazine machine with magazines the same width -as the model 1. This model does not differ materially from a model -1 except that it has two interchangeable narrow magazines supported -in a frame similar to the frame of a model 19. The magazines are -changed by pulling a lever at the right of the magazine frame. This -machine carries the short keyrods, escapement levers, and escapements -similar to a model 19, except that the escapements are fastened to -the magazine. These magazines are changed from the front. They are -not interchangeable with a model 1 magazine. The other parts of the -machine are the same as any of the other models. - - -MODEL L - -The model L is a rebuilt machine along the same lines as a model -5. The magazine changes from the front the same as a model 5. The -escapements are fastened to the intermediate brackets similar to a -model 5. - -To change a magazine on this model: Lock the matrices by inserting -the locking strip, pressing it firmly in place. Raise the cam levers -to positions, lift the front end of the magazine, and it will slide -forward. By allowing the lower end to drop, the magazine will hang in -a vertical position ready to be lifted off. - -To remove the verges from this model it is necessary to use the -locking rod that comes with the machine. This rod is similar to the -one used on the model 1, except it has an extra strip at the top -which raises the keyrods higher. Insert this strip in the hole in -the keyboard post at the right; push through as far as it will go. -This will lift the keyrods free of the verges; they can now be pushed -back by releasing the latch that holds the upper keyrod guides to -the verge pivot rod at the right, and pushing back on the guide. The -escapements can now be removed by taking out the two screws, one at -each end, and lift off dowel pins. - - - - -TO REMOVE A VERGE - - -Remove the magazine or escapements from the machine and place bottom -side up on a bench or table. On a model 1, with a pair of duck bill -pliers, straighten the bent ears on the verge partition which holds -the narrow brass locking strip in place. Raise the strip to a point -beyond the desired verge. (On the other models there is no strip to -be removed.) Push out the pivot rod with another rod of the same -size, until you reach the desired verge; separate the ends of the two -rods and lift out the verge and its pawls. Verges are made in various -sizes and care should be taken that a verge of the same size is used -in replacing. Examine the verge and pawl to see that there is nothing -to retard its free action. Examine the verge spring for wear at the -point of contact with the verge. If the verge does not work freely -the matrices can not drop properly. - - -FAILURE OF MATRICES TO RESPOND - -(_Due to trouble above the keyboard_) - -When the matrices fail to respond to the touch and the keyboard and -keyrods have been found to be working properly, the trouble may -be due to: Dirty magazine, dirty matrices, bent or damaged lugs -on the matrices, weak verge spring, bent verge pawl, bent verge -plunger, broken verge, verge not making full stroke, magazine not -aligning with the assembler front partitions, matrix laying flat in -the magazine and holding others back, no matrices in the channel, -battered channel, keyrod spring weak or off. - - - - -CLEANING A MAGAZINE - - -To clean a magazine, run out all the matrices into a galley and place -the magazine in a convenient place for cleaning. Magazines which have -the verges assembled on them should be placed with the bottom side -up in order to prevent the dirt getting in around the pawls while -cleaning. With a good magazine brush, clean all dirt and gum from -the inside of the magazine. If the magazine is very dirty, first use -a little good gasoline or denatured alcohol on the brush to cut all -the gum loose. Brush the magazine and use the air until dry on the -inside. Then polish the inside by applying a very small amount of -graphite on the brush and rubbing briskly. - -In cleaning a magazine, be sure that all the little dark spots, which -show where the lugs of the matrices set in the magazine, are removed. -These spots are gum which forms in the magazine, due to oil and dirt -which are carried in on the lugs of the matrices. If these spots are -not entirely removed it would be better not to clean the magazine at -all. When they are merely loosened up by the cleaning, the matrices -will be held back and will not drop regularly. - -Frequently the bristles of the brush will get caught in the -partitions of the magazine and pull out of the brush. These can -usually be removed by dragging the edge of a soft pine yard-stick -across them. - -Keep the various parts of the machine, with which the matrices come -in contact, clean and free from oil, and the magazine will not get -dirty for some time. - - - - -CLEANING MATRICES - - -Matrices to be cleaned should be placed on a flat galley. With an ink -eraser (Banner Eberhard Faber No. 1071) remove the gum or dirt from -the lugs and the face. Then blow the loose dust off with the air. -Place another galley bottom side up over the galley of matrices and -turn both galleys and the matrices over. The back lugs and back side -of the matrices may then be cleaned the same as the face. - - -MAGAZINE HINTS - -Never oil the escapements nor put oil in the magazine. To do so will -cause escapement trouble. - -Do not slam the magazine entrance when closing it. There may be a -matrix overhanging the edge that you have overlooked, and you will -damage the matrix and the back end of the magazine. - -Never pound the magazine to make matrices drop. Locate the cause of -the trouble and remove it. - -Don’t forget, when pulling down the magazine entrance, to do so -quickly, as opening it slowly is liable to cause a matrix to fall -into the magazine flatwise. - -Never try to force a matrix past the escapement. If it will not come -through easily, pull it out the back way. - -A wooden reglet with a rubber band around the end will be found -convenient for removing a flat matrix from the magazine. - -Never attempt to remove a magazine without first inserting the -locking bar. - -Do not expect a rusty or bent locking bar to work freely. Clean it; -if bent, straighten it. - -Never put a No. 5 magazine on the machine until you have run your -fingers along the opening at the back side of the lower end to make -sure there are no matrices with the lugs in the opening. If there -are, push them back in the magazine. Just one lug in this opening -will prevent the magazine seating properly. - - - - -ASSEMBLING ELEVATOR - - -The assembling elevator is held in place on the face plate by the -two gibs, one on each side, and by the assembler roll bracket on the -lower right-hand side. - -The assembling elevator on all the later model machines consists -of two castings, held together at the bottom by a large screw and -dowel pins. The two castings carry, as the main parts, the assembler -gate, retaining pawls, the duplex rails, the buffer parts on which -the matrices strike, the releasing pin, the latch, and the detaining -plates. - -The matrices, when falling from the magazines, are guided downward -by a series of flexible partitions. These partitions are thin strips -fastened to the assembler plate and are bent at an angle at the -bottom to cause the matrix to drop flat on an endless conveyer belt -which carries them to the assembler rails. These rails are so shaped -that the matrices slide between them and the chute spring into the -assembling elevator and are moved forward into the elevator by a star -wheel. - -As the matrix is caught by the star wheel, it is pushed between -the two assembling elevator rail pawls and seated on the elevator -buffers. The matrix is held in place at the bottom of the elevator by -two detaining plates. When these parts are in perfect condition, the -matrix will set straight in the elevator. - -The back buffer is made of steel, and sets flush with the edge of -the back rail of the elevator. The front buffer receives most of the -impact of the matrices and there is not much wear to the back one, -unless the front buffer is badly worn. The back buffer may be renewed -if necessary. - -The front buffer is a removable fiber plate set in the bottom and -flush with the edge of the rail. The purpose of this buffer is to -prevent wear on the bottom lug of the matrix. When the plate is worn, -it can be replaced. - -The matrix will have a tendency to fall back on the star wheel if -the buffer is worn. A good way to determine whether the front buffer -is worn is to run down a few matrices in the assembler, then open -the gate and observe whether the matrices near the end fall forward -slightly, dropping below the level of the rest of the line. If the -matrices drop very much, a new buffer should be applied. - -The detaining plates, at the bottom of the assembling elevator, are -for the purpose of keeping the bottom of the matrix from falling -between the assembling elevator and the assembler. These plates must -be kept in good condition, and the screws which hold them kept tight, -or thin matrices will get in between the elevator and assembler, -causing trouble in assembling the line. - -Assembled at the right of the assembling elevator back rail and the -gate are the two assembling elevator rail pawls. These rail pawls -are operated by springs, the tension of which should be just strong -enough to hold the matrix. The pawls should keep the matrices from -falling back on the star wheel. - -Most fonts of matrices, up to and including 14-point, have two -letters or characters on the casting edge. The characters to be cast -must be presented at the proper level in front of the mold cell. To -enable the operator to utilize either character instantly, there are -assembled in the front of the assembling elevator two thin duplex -rails. These rails are operated by small levers, which permit the -operator to assemble the matrices on the upper or lower rail, or mix -the line, part upper and part lower. Rails are carried throughout -the entire delivery mechanism to hold the matrices at the proper -level until after the cast is made. - -The rails are assembled on the levers and are held to position by a -bar which is fastened to the elevator. A liner on each end, under -the bar, gives room for the rails to move without binding. Under -the rails are small spiral springs which force the rails up against -the bar to keep them from moving too freely when a line is being -assembled. - -The long rail has a projection out from the base that holds the -line of matrices as it transfers from the elevator to the delivery -channel. This projection must fit into a groove in the elevator. If -this point becomes bent it will not permit the rail to fit, causing -bad assembling when in the regular position. There is a small -operating finger screwed to the long rail that comes in contact with -the aligning piece fastened to the delivery channel front rail. This -is for the purpose of aligning the upper rails on the assembling -elevator with the upper delivery channel rails when the line is in -the auxiliary position. If the operating finger does not come in -contact with the aligning piece and raise it, matrices in auxiliary, -or raised position, will not pass into the delivery channel. - -To operate the duplex rails, determine in which position the matrices -should be assembled, and press in or pull out on the small levers, -as desired. The right-hand lever controls the first half-inch of the -duplex rail, throwing it in or out. If the rail is in, the matrices -are all assembled on the raised or auxiliary position. If the rail is -out, the matrices are all assembled on the bottom or regular position. - -The left-hand or the long rail fills out the balance of space in the -elevator. It is also connected with a small lever, and operates the -same as the short rail. The rails can be moved in or out as needed -for a line in the regular or auxiliary position, or for a line partly -in the regular and partly in the auxiliary position. - -On the back of the assembling elevator at the right, resting on an -adjusting screw, is the line delivery slide releasing wire pin. This -pin should release the line delivery slide just as the assembling -latch catches when the elevator is raised. - -The releasing pin raises the releasing plunger, which in turn raises -the delivery pawl, releasing the slide. This carries the assembled -line through the delivery channel. The pin should not release the -slide until the latch, which is found on the back of the assembling -elevator, catches on the stop bar. The latch, which is held in place -by a shoulder screw and operated by a spring, holds the elevator in -raised position until the slide has carried the assembled line into -the delivery channel. The latch is then released by the slide as it -passes to the left, allowing the elevator to drop of its own weight -to the position to receive another line. - -If the pin is adjusted so that it will release the pawl before the -latch catches, the delivery slide will start to carry the line -towards the delivery channel before the latch can hold and part -of the line will fall out, because the elevator drops as soon as -released. If the pin is adjusted so it will not release the pawl, the -delivery slide will not start. - -The pin should be adjusted so it will release the delivery pawl at -the same time the latch catches on the stop bar. This adjustment -is made by raising the elevator to its highest position and with -a narrow screw-driver, adjust to the proper height by turning the -adjusting screw on which the pins rest. - -There is a counterbalance spring attached to the assembling elevator, -underneath the keyboard frame. - - -TO TAKE OFF ASSEMBLING ELEVATOR - -Remove the two screws which hold the delivery channel; pull it off -the dowel pins. Release the assembling elevator lever, take out the -four screws which hold the left-hand gib, pull the gib off the dowel -pins, and remove the elevator. On the machine that has the universal -ejector, care must be used not to bend the indicator rod when -removing the delivery channel. - - - - -ASSEMBLER - - -As the matrices descend into the assembling elevator they pass -between the chute spring and the assembler chute rails. The chute -spring is bent and adjusted to break the fall of the matrix and -tend to throw the bottom of the matrix towards the star wheel. The -points of the chute spring should be slightly inclined so they will -not interfere with the top of the matrix striking beneath the points -of the spring, retarding the matrix long enough for the spaceband -to transpose. There must be room enough between these points for -the spaceband to pass through without binding as it drops from the -spaceband chute into the assembling elevator. - -The chute spring must be adjusted so it will allow the heaviest -matrix in the font, such as the cap “W,” to slip through between it -and the rails of the assembler without hesitating. This adjustment -is approximate; it is sometimes necessary to change it. Adjust by -bending above the banking piece with duck bill pliers. The spring -should also be flexible and as low as permitted by the banking piece -which is riveted on the side, and resting on the assembler plate. Be -careful not to change the shape of the lower part of the spring. - -The later style chute spring is a great improvement over the old -style. The length of the spring from the pivoting point to the toe -assures smoothness in assembling, and can be instantly adjusted for -thin or thick matrices. - -On this style chute spring the adjustment is made by turning a -conical thumbscrew which raises or lowers the spring. - -The matrix catch spring is fastened to the rear of the assembler -plate and projects through a slot in the plate 1/32 of an inch. The -purpose of this spring is to retard the matrix a trifle before it -passes onto the star wheel. The catch spring should be adjusted so -it does not project more than 1/32 of an inch from the plate. It -must also be in the center of the slot. If it projects more than the -distance mentioned it may cause transpositions. - -The star wheel is driven by a friction disk and pinion. The pinion -slips over a small circular brass disk that is screwed onto the star -wheel shaft. To hold the pinion on and to cause the friction to drive -the disk, there is a spring which is held against the pinion by a nut -that screws on the shaft. The spring must be just strong enough to -force the assembler slide over when assembling a line, but to allow -the star wheel to stop if anything binds it. - -If the brass disk wears or becomes oily, or the friction spring -becomes weak, a slight resistance to the star wheel will stop it -and the matrices will clog in the assembler. If the friction is too -strong, the star wheel will not stop when too many matrices are -dropped into the assembler. This will cause damage to the matrices or -the machine. - -If these parts need renewing or cleaning, it will be necessary to -remove the assembler plate from the machine. This can be accomplished -by removing the two screws in the assembler plate, removing the chute -spring, if the new style, releasing the matrix delivery belt from -the pulley at the top, slipping the assembler driving belt off the -pulley, and lifting the plate off the dowel pins. - -By unscrewing the stud nut, the spring and the pinion can be lifted -off and the disk unscrewed and cleaned or renewed. - -The star wheel should force the matrices inside the retaining pawls -in the assembling elevator. When it becomes worn to the extent that -it will not force the matrices inside the retaining pawls, it should -be replaced with a new one. - -When renewing a star wheel it is only necessary to remove the small -assembler cover, raise the assembling elevator, remove the screw -which holds the two chute plates and rails on the dowel pins, and -remove the chute plates. The old star can be withdrawn and a new one -fitted. - -Use a square file to dress out the hole on the new star, but do not -have it fitted too loosely. Use care that the star does not bind -anywhere. - -The assembler chute rails, front and back, are soldered to the -plates, and should be kept tightly fastened at all times. They should -be close to, but not dig into, the delivery belt. - -The small assembler cover must be adjusted so the matrices do not -strike the upper edge while passing to the assembler, as this batters -the lugs and will cause them to stick in the channels. It should also -be adjusted so the lower left-hand side sets close to the assembling -elevator, to prevent matrices or spacebands from getting between the -cover and the assembling elevator. - - - - -ASSEMBLER SLIDE - - -The assembler slide guides the matrices as they are forced into the -assembling elevator by the star wheel. This slide is prevented from -vibrating by the assembler slide brake. - -On the right end of the slide is the gauge and clamp for setting it -to the required measure. The gauge is marked in ems and half-ems. By -merely changing the clamp the slide can be adjusted to any measure -desired. - -On top of the clamp is an adjusting screw for the purpose of keeping -the slide properly adjusted. The proper measurement of the slide is -determined by inserting a gauge or slug of any known length between -the assembler slide finger and the star wheel. The star wheel, being -of fiber composition, wears down, which in time will allow enough -matrices to be assembled in the assembler to cause a tight line in -the vise jaws. By using the adjusting screw the slide can be kept at -proper adjustment. The screw should be turned towards the assembler -slide bracket pawl until the gauge stops the star wheel. This is a -very important adjustment, as tight lines should not be tolerated on -any machine. Tight lines not only ruin the matrices, but they often -cause much damage to the machine. They also cause much distributor -and escapement trouble on account of the damage done to the matrices. - - - - -ASSEMBLER SLIDE BRAKE - - -The assembler slide brake is at the right of the assembler, held to -the face plate by a screw, and operated by the assembler slide brake -operating lever, spring, and a trip. The purpose of the brake is to -prevent the slide from having an unsteady movement when the line is -being assembled, so that the last matrix in the elevator will be -upright against the star wheel. The brake should hold the assembler -slide from returning to normal until released by the operating lever. -When the assembling elevator is in normal position it is resting on -the top of the assembler slide brake operating lever near the left -end, which raises the right, putting the brake in action. - -When the assembling elevator is being raised, the lug on the lower -right side raises the left end of the operating lever, lowering the -right against the adjusting screw in the brake trip which releases -the brake, and allows the slide to return to its normal position. - -When it is necessary to adjust the brake it can be adjusted with the -screw in the inner end of the operating lever on the older models, -and with the screw in the brake trip on the newer, by raising the -assembling elevator slowly with the left hand and adjusting with the -right so the slide will return just before the line delivery slide is -released. There should be about 1/64 of an inch between the end of -the screw on the operating lever, or the trip, and the brake lever -when this adjustment is properly made. - -There are facing blocks at the point of friction on the assembler -slide brake. When these blocks become worn, they may be reversed, -bringing another corner to the point of friction. - -The left end of the operating lever, when raised, should remain so -until the assembling elevator has returned to its proper position. If -it does not, when using a long line the instant the elevator starts -to descend, the right end of the operating lever raising would allow -the brake to go into action, and cause the assembler slide to stop -before it has returned to its proper position. - -On the back of the operating lever is a friction spring which should -overcome the tension of the brake spring, so as to have the left end -of the operating lever remain in raised position until returned by -the assembling elevator as it returns to normal. - -The assembler slide is returned to normal by a long coil spring, as -soon as the brake is released. Do not change the tension of this -spring if the slide fails to return. The cause of the trouble usually -will be found elsewhere. - - - - -MATRIX CARRIER BELT - - -This belt moves the matrices to the assembling elevator and must be -kept fairly tight. It is adjusted by loosening the nut and stud which -hold the upper pulley and which fit into a slotted hole; then move -the pulley to the desired position and tighten the nut. If the belt -is still loose when the stud is against the outer end of the slot -a new belt should be applied. Procure a new belt from the machine -manufacturer and be sure to specify the model and the number of the -machine, because the belts are of different lengths for the various -models. - -There are always particles of dirt and grease that form a gum which -adheres to the pulleys and slideways along which the belt moves. -These parts should be kept clean and free of this gum. - - - - -CAUSES OF BAD ASSEMBLING - - -The main sources of trouble of the assembling are transpositions and -matrices jumping out of the assembler. The causes of these troubles -are numerous. In the assembling elevator it may be caused by worn -buffer strips, detaining pawls not working properly, or worn detaining -plates. On the assembler plate trouble may be caused by a worn star -wheel, dirty star wheel friction, chute spring out of adjustment, -matrix catch spring out of adjustment, chute rails loose from the -plates; assembler slide brake out of adjustment, permitting the slide -to vibrate; brake catching too soon, not allowing the slide to return -all the way back; loose screw in assembler slide operating brake, -causing the slide to bind; or assembler slide worn or dirty, which will -not allow the brake to operate properly. - -These are some of the principal causes of trouble, but due to wear or -the care the machine has had, there may be numerous other causes. - - - - -THE SPACEBANDS - - -Spacing and justification are accomplished on the linotype by means -of the spacebands, which are held in the spaceband box above the -assembling elevator, into which they drop when the spacebar is -touched. - -Spacebands are made in two pieces, a long wedge and a sleeve, put -together in such a manner that they slide freely the one upon the -other, but with the outer surfaces always remaining parallel. The -spaceband is thicker at the bottom than at the top, forming a wedge -which is automatically driven upward between the matrices, thus -increasing the space between the words, spreading the line to fill -the measure, and holding it air-tight during the cast. - -The sleeve of the spaceband should be turned to the right. Because -the casting edge of the spacebands is made thicker than the opposite -edge, spacebands must not be reversed in a line, nor two put -together; neither should a spaceband be put on the end of a line. - -After the cast the matrices and spacebands are carried to the -transfer point where the matrices are transferred from the first -elevator to the bar of the second elevator, while the spacebands, not -having combination teeth like the matrices, are left in the channel -and are returned to the spaceband box by the spaceband pawl. - -The deep cut in the bottom of the spaceband straddles the spaceband -buffer finger which guides it in its travel through the assembling -elevator and lessens the possibility of turning or twisting. The -small pin at the bottom of the spaceband prevents it from falling -apart. - -The bottom of the spaceband is beveled so that it will strike the -matrix a glancing, but harmless, blow as it enters the line. - -Spacebands which are generally accepted as regular are termed “thick” -by the factory. They are also made in other sizes known as “thin,” -used with very small faces of type; and “extra thick,” for the larger -faces or where very wide spacing is desired. - -Watch matrices and spacebands carefully, and immediately remove any -damaged, bent, or imperfect ones. A damaged matrix or spaceband will -damage others, and the whole font may go to ruin within a short time -unless the proper attention is given. - -Once in each eight hours of operation, the spacebands must be taken -from the machine and polished with graphite on a soft pine board. -Lay the spaceband flat on its face and rub it briskly backward and -forward the long way of the band. Do not rub in a circling movement, -as it tends to round the edges. Metal will then cast between the -spaceband and the matrix and show in print. The purpose of cleaning -is to remove the discoloration or metal adhering at the casting -point, and to lubricate the sliding parts. If metal is allowed -to accumulate on the spacebands, it will crush the side walls of -the matrices when locked up. Use dry graphite in polishing the -spacebands. Never handle them with dirty or greasy hands, as the dirt -and grease will be transferred to the matrices. If the metal does not -rub off, scrape it with a piece of brass rule. - - - - -SPACEBAND BOX - - -The spaceband box is fastened to the face plate by means of a screw -and dowel pins. - -The spacebands slide down through the box, suspended by their lugs, -on two inclined rails. The lower spaceband rests against a raised -projection or hook on the inclined rail. The bottom end of the -spaceband rests against the chute plate. Escapement of the spaceband -is effected by two pawls which lift the spacebands over the rails, -allowing them to drop into the assembling elevator. - -The pawls are located in the right-hand side of the spaceband box, -front and back. These pawls are connected to the pawl levers by the -spaceband pawl lifting screws, and held in place by the rails and -pawl springs. When the pawls are at their lowest position, they are -forced under the ears of the spaceband by the pawl springs. - -The pawls get their motion in the following manner: When the -spaceband key is touched the cam is released and turns the same as -the regular keyboard cams. This raises the spaceband keyrod against -the tension of the spring at the bottom of the keyrod. The keyrod -raises the right-hand end of the spaceband keylever. This lowers the -left-hand end of the keylever, on which the box lever rests. This -permits the pawls and levers to drop of their own weight. When the -keyrod cam returns to normal, the spring on the keyrod pulls the -keyrod and the keylever to normal, thus raising the pawls and levers -by spring action. - -The movement of the pawls is controlled by the screw in the back -pawl lever which rests on the spaceband keylever. When the pawls are -at their lowest position, the bottom of the slot in the adjusting -screw is resting on the keylever. They must go 1/32 an inch below the -inclined rails on their full down stroke. To make this adjustment, -disconnect the keyboard belt from the pulley, touch the spaceband -key, turn the rollers by hand until the pawl levers are in their -lowest position, disconnect the keylever from the adjusting screw and -turn the screw. - -The chute plate, against which the lower right side of the spaceband -rests while suspended in the spaceband box, must be low enough so -that when raised by the pawls, the bottom of the spaceband will be -released before the top; if not, they will catch and hang in the -box. Whenever it is necessary to make this adjustment it can be -accomplished by bending the chute plate a trifle. - -When the first spaceband is being raised by the pawls, the weight -of the other being against it would cause the next one to raise by -friction unless it were prevented. This is prevented by the center -bar which is fastened to a bracket at the top of the box. The -distance from the vertical stop on the box rails to the pins on the -center bar should be just enough for one spaceband to raise, the -pins holding the second band from raising. By loosening the screw in -the bracket and moving the bar, adjust so that the distance from the -vertical stop on the rails to the pins is just enough to permit one -spaceband to raise, the pins holding the second one. As there are -three kinds of spacebands in use—thin, thick, and extra thick—the -above adjustment can only be made so as to use one thickness at a -time. - -The two chute rails at the bottom of the chute guide the spacebands -into the assembling elevator. The spacebands will have a tendency to -catch on the assembling elevator rails, and not settle down in the -assembler, if the rails are worn. There should be just room enough -between the rails for a spaceband to slide without binding. - - - - -TO REMOVE SPACEBAND BOX - - -Push in controlling lever. Take hold of cam No. 1 and back the cams -until the second elevator descends to its safety latch. Hold the -spaceband transfer lever with the right hand and press downward with -left hand on the releasing lever in the first elevator top guide. -Allow the spaceband transfer lever to move over into the intermediate -channel. Push the spacebands back into the channel. Remove the screw -on the right-hand side of the electric light bracket and move the -bracket to clear the box. Remove the large screw in the center of the -box and lift the box off the dowel pins. - -In replacing the spaceband box, be careful not to spring the lower -end of the spaceband chute. Also be careful not to bend the ends of -the inclined rails. - - - - -SPACEBAND TROUBLES - - -Transposition troubles of the spacebands may be caused by any of -the following: Worn keyboard cam roll, keyboard cam sluggish, loose -keyboard driving belt, keyrod spring weak, tongue at the bottom of -spaceband chute bent too far, worn star wheel, pawl levers loose on -the shaft, caused by taper pins not being tight; dirty spaceband box -pawls, pawl levers not adjusted properly, worn pawls and rails, chute -spring out of adjustment, chute rails worn; also on the cam frames -with the spring bar, a weak keyboard cam yoke spring. - -Some of the causes for the spacebands not dropping are: Worn rails or -pawls, lifting screw holes in pawls worn, bent spacebands, bent ears -on spacebands, center bar out of adjustment, keyrod spring weak or -off, dirty spaceband box pawls, weak pawl springs, worn rubber roll, -free end of keyboard cam yoke gummy, pawl lever loose. On the cam -frames with the spring bar, the cam yoke spring too tight; bent hinge -rod on cam yoke or trigger dirty, or anything else that would prevent -the free movement of the pawls. - -Spacebands travel through the machine suspended by their lugs. -Constant use causes the under side of the lug to wear, and when -spacebands with badly worn lugs are mixed together with new -spacebands, difficulty frequently arises and they occasionally clog -in the chute when released by touching the spacebar. The only remedy -is to send the offending spaceband to the factory to be repaired. - - -SPACEBAND BOX PAWLS AND RAILS - -If the trouble is due to worn or dirty pawls, they can be taken out -in the following manner: Remove the spaceband box from the machine, -release the tension of the pawl springs by unscrewing the small screw -that holds the spring, then take out the pawl screw and lift the -pawl out of the box. If the pawls are to be replaced by new ones, -select two that are the same height. Test the pawls for height by -placing a small wooden plug in the pivot hole of the two pawls. The -points should be the same distance from the pivot holes. If the old -pawls are to be used, mark one pawl, so that they will not get mixed; -for after they have been used, they should be kept in their regular -place. Measure the pawls for height and also examine them to see -if the points are worn. If uneven and the points dull, they can be -rubbed down on an oil stone to get them even. After they are the same -height, sharpen them on an oil stone, being careful to maintain the -same bevel. - -To work well, the pawls must be even as to height and at the points. -If the pawls are rusty or gummy they can be cleaned by rubbing them -on crocus cloth and polishing with graphite. - -If the spaceband box rails are to be replaced with new ones, the box -must be taken apart. Remove the box from the machine. Remove the -chute plate. Drive out the taper pin which holds the pawl levers to -the lever shaft, and take off the levers. Take out the pawls, unscrew -the two large screws, and pry the two castings apart. Take off the -center bar plate by removing the two round head screws. Remove the -old rails. Put on the new ones by fitting them on the dowel pins, -using care to have the vertical face of the rails even. It is always -best to renew the pawls at the same time new rails are put on. - - -TO REPLACE SPACEBAND BOX PAWLS - -To replace the spaceband box pawls, loosen the screw which holds -the pawl spring to the pawl lever, unscrew the lifting pawl screw, -place pawl in the box, screw up on the lifting screw, being careful -to guide the screw into the hole on the pawl. Place the spring in -the pawl slot before the pawl lift screw is drawn tight. Tighten -the spring screw, which holds the spring against the pawl, until the -screw is tight. - -The pawl should rest against the back of the pawl guide firmly. Try -the pawl to see if the spring has the proper tension and that the -pawl is not bent so it does not work freely. - - - - -LINE DELIVERY SLIDE - - -The delivery slide consists of two slides which move in a slideway, a -long finger, short finger, delivery slide rod, and adjusting clamp. -The slide is connected by a lever link, lever, shaft, and split cam -lever, to a roller which operates against the surface of cam No. 10. - -The slide gets its action, when delivering a line, from a strong coil -spring in the column of the machine which is connected to a lug on -the shaft. The slide is returned to normal by cam action, the roller -being held against and following the surface of cam No. 10. - -When the line delivery slide is in normal position, it is prevented -from sliding into the first elevator jaws by the delivery pawl, which -is under the spaceband box, held to the face by a screw, and operated -by a spring. - -This pawl has a notch on the lower side, which acts as a safety -to prevent the slide being pulled to the left, in case it is not -returned quite far enough for the end of the pawl to pass the catch. - -When the slide has returned to normal position, the short finger -should go not more than 1/16 of an inch beyond the end of the pawl. -If the finger returns more than this distance, the short finger will -be forced against the spaceband box chute and cause it to spring, and -very likely cause delay in dropping of the spacebands. - -The return adjustment is made by moving the split cam lever in or -out. First remove the spaceband box so as to have a clear view of the -pawl and finger. Then turn the main cams by hand until just before -the high part of cam No. 10 is opposite the split cam lever roller. -Place the short finger back of the delivery pawl, in normal position. -Hold the lever and roller against the cam and tighten the screws in -the split cam lever. This should cause the short finger on the slide -to be returned not more than 1/16 of an inch beyond the pawl. - -This adjustment is approximate, however, due to wear on the -connecting parts of the slide on machines which have been in use for -some time. The adjustment is made on the older model machines, which -do not have the split cam lever, by the eccentric pin on the slide -lever. - -Near the right end of the first elevator jaws are two spring pawls -which prevent the matrices from falling out while the line is going -to casting position. The short finger should stop 13/32 of an inch -inside of the first elevator. The last matrix on the right-hand end -of the line will then be inside the two pawls. This adjustment is -made by the screw in the slideway on the left end of the face plate, -against which the slide comes to a stop. - -When the slide stops against the adjusting screw in the slideway, the -casting mechanism will be set in action. It is started by the roller -on the split cam lever, which comes in contact with the automatic -stopping pawl on cam No. 10, forcing it from the upper stopping -lever, and the machine goes into action. It should not start before -the line delivery slide has come to a stop against the adjusting -screw on the face plate. If it did, the last matrix in the line would -not be inside the spring pawls in the first elevator. The plate, -which is held to the automatic stopping pawl by a screw on the lower -end, is adjustable. Loosening the lower and turning the upper screw -to the left will move the plate closer to the split lever or roller -and the machine will be set in action sooner; moving the screw to the -right, the reverse. This plate should be adjusted so as to knock the -automatic stop pawl off upper stopping lever not less than 1/64 of an -inch. - -The short finger is at the right of the slide and acts as a support -for the right end of the matrix line while it is being transferred to -the first elevator jaws. There is a small extension at the top of the -short finger which engages the delivery pawl and holds the slide in -normal position until the assembling elevator is raised to send in a -line. The short finger is not adjustable. - -The long finger is fastened to the left of the slide. It is the -support for the left end of the matrix line while it is being -transferred to the vise jaws. The long finger is adjusted by means -of the clamp. It is necessary to readjust this finger when the -measure is changed. The long finger must be kept straight so it hangs -vertically on the machine. If bent either forward or backward it will -wear the assembling elevator. If the bottom is bent to the right, it -may interfere with the assembler slide, or the last matrix in the -line may not get inside the first elevator jaw pawls, thereby binding -the matrix. If bent to the left it will bind full lines of matrices -as they are being raised by the assembling elevator and cause the -slide to travel slowly. - -The air chamber, which regulates the speed at which the slide -travels, is fastened to the rear of the column and is connected to -the split cam lever by means of a link. This link is also connected -to the delivery air cushion piston, which operates in the air -cylinder. As the slide moves over to the left this piston is forced -upward into the cylinder. The speed is regulated by an air vent and -cover at the top of the cylinder. Opening up the vent allows the air -to escape quicker which in turn allows the slide to move to the left -faster. The slide should not go over with too much force or it will -have a tendency to loosen the screws in the delivery slide. - -The lever link, which is the connection between the delivery slide -and delivery lever, has a stud which fastens in a depression in the -delivery lever and is held by a small plate and two screws. The other -end of the lever has a notch that fits over a shoulder screw at the -left of the rear side of the delivery slide. The link is held on this -screw by means of a long, flat spring. The spring holds the link on -the screw except when there is an undue strain on the delivery slide -caused by something interfering with the free return of the slide. -When the strain becomes too great, the spring permits the link to -slip off the shoulder screw, disconnecting the slide from the lever -to prevent breakage. To connect the link it is only necessary to -relieve the strain on the delivery slide and push the link and the -shoulder screw together. - -The slideway should be well lubricated at all times to prevent undue -wear on the sliding parts. Dry graphite will give more uniform action -than oil on the slideway. If oil has been used on the slideway, it -should be thoroughly cleaned before using graphite. - - - - -METAL POT - - -The metal pot consists of the pot jacket and pot crucible. The jacket -is the outside casting. The crucible fits into the jacket, allowing -space between the crucible and jacket for asbestos packing. The -crucible is held in place in the jacket by three lugs, which keep -it stationary in the jacket. All the space between the crucible and -jacket is packed tightly with powdered asbestos which has been mixed -with a little water until a paste is formed. This insulation is for -the purpose of holding the heat in the crucible. - -It is very important that every pot should be well insulated or -packed. If there is poor packing the crucible can not hold the heat. -The result being poor slugs, and the consequent use of more gas than -is necessary. If the machine takes an excessive gas flame to keep the -metal in working condition, look for poor insulation. - -The well of the pot, which contains the metal before it is forced -through the mouthpiece by the plunger, must have sufficient metal -under the plunger to form a perfect slug when a cast is made. For -that reason two holes are drilled in the well, one on each side, -which allows the metal to enter the well. If the holes become closed, -which they sometimes do if the well is not cleaned regularly, the -slug will be hollow. They should be kept open, using the end of the -mouthpiece wiper, which is bent at a right angle and pointed. The -metal pot has a capacity of 38 pounds of metal. - - -METAL POT PLUNGER - -The metal is forced by the plunger from the well, through the throat -of the crucible, into the mold cell, and up against the line of -matrices aligned in front of the mold. - -When the machine is in normal position, the plunger should be high -enough in the well to permit the metal to run into the well through -the holes in the sides. If the plunger does not set above the holes, -the metal can not flow into the well and throat, so when the line is -cast the slug will appear porous or spongy and of light weight. - -If a plunger is worn, it will permit the metal to escape around the -sides of the plunger when the cast is made, giving a poor slug. To -remedy this trouble it is sometimes necessary to put in a new plunger -a trifle oversize (.005), and fit it to the well. - -A dirty plunger may bind and cause a splash of metal to be ejected -before the pot locks up tight and, chilling on the back of the mold, -prevent a lockup, so the metal will flow out over the back of the -disk when the plunger acts. A dirty plunger will often cause a slug -to have the appearance of cold metal. Keep the plunger and the well -of the pot clean. - -Any kind of a wire brush may be used to clean a plunger, but the -Ewald cleaning box is recommended, because it keeps all the dust -confined in the box. There are several kinds of brushes and scrapers -manufactured for use in cleaning the well. Use whatever method -desired, but be sure it keeps the well clean. - -If using a rotary well brush to clean the walls of the well, be sure -to turn it always to the right, otherwise the bristles may break off -and stay in the well. - -If a plunger should stick in the well very tightly, raise the -temperature a little, apply a wrench to the plunger rod and twist it -carefully. Do not use too much force or the rod may be broken. If a -plunger sticks so that it can not be removed by the above method, dip -enough metal out of the crucible to expose the well; squirt some oil -between the plunger and the inside wall of the well, or drop a piece -of tallow in the well; let it stand for a few minutes, after which -the plunger can usually be loosened with the wrench as described. Do -not pry up on the plunger for there is danger of breaking the rod. - -When the plunger forces the metal through the throat of the crucible, -there will be nothing to retard the flow of metal against the face -of the matrices if the throat of the crucible is clean. However, if -the throat should be stopped up with dross or dirt, retarding the -flow of metal, the face of the slug would be glassy, and have the -appearance of cold metal. - - -CLEANING THE THROAT OF CRUCIBLE - -To eliminate a stoppage in the throat it is sometimes necessary to -remove the mouthpiece and scrape out the throat, using a throat -scraper to cut away the accumulation of dirt and dross. - -The scraper sold by the Linotype Company is recommended for the -purpose. Care must be used to get the throat clean. Hold a receptacle -that does not leak up in front of the crucible mouth and force the -plunger down by hand. This will flush the throat of any floating -particles of dross. - -Sometimes melted tallow, paraffin oil, or machine oil will open up -the throat, by being used in the following manner: Dip the metal -out of the pot to about an inch below the top of the well, remove -the plunger, pour the melted tallow, paraffin oil, or machine oil -into the well and replace the plunger. Cast a few blank slugs. After -casting about six or seven slugs, fill the metal pot full of metal, -recast blank slugs until you have filled the stick. The effect of -the tallow or oil is to break up the dross and dirt into such fine -particles, that whatever has accumulated in the throat will be forced -out through the holes in the mouthpiece. This will cause considerable -smoke in the room unless you have a ventilating system. Be sure to -clean your vise jaws and mold after you have finished, for they will -be covered with oil. It is not necessary to remove the mouthpiece for -this operation so consequently considerable time can be saved. But if -the throat is very dirty, this method will not work satisfactorily. - - -CRACKED CRUCIBLE - -Crucibles are sometimes cracked from too much heat when the gas is -first lighted. When the gas is turned on full at first, the metal in -the bottom of the pot is melted before the metal in the upper part -gets very hot. This metal in the bottom expands and powerful pressure -is exerted on the walls of the well and lower part of the crucible. -To eliminate this danger the gas should be turned on about half -force for about twenty minutes, or until the metal becomes warm and -expanded, after which the gas may be turned on full force. - -Ordinarily it takes about one hour and a half to melt the metal and -have it ready for use. The small cracks which are made in the bottom -of the crucible when first heating the pot will usually be closed by -the heat of the burner after the pressure is released. - -To remove an old crucible: Dip out as much metal as possible, turn -out the fire, remove the four pot jacket cover screws, take off -the cover, dig out part of the old asbestos, release the screw -that clamps the left-hand crucible lug to the jacket, lift out the -crucible, clean all of the old asbestos out of the inside of the -jacket. - -To put in a new crucible: The pot jacket should be lined with the -asbestos about an inch thick on the inside, except in the front part -where the burners are located. Place the crucible in position. Care -should be taken to see that it fits firmly in its proper position. -Pack the asbestos around the crucible, tamping it down with a stick, -and filling in all the spaces. Cover the well of the crucible with -a rag while packing, so that none of the asbestos will get into the -well. On completion of the packing, place the pot jacket cover in -position, and fasten it down firmly with the four pot jacket screws, -which extend down through the cover, into the pot jacket. - - -MOUTHPIECES - -One of the most important parts of the pot crucible, is the -mouthpiece. The mouthpiece on all standard machines contains thirty -holes (size 51), one hole for each pica of the slug, through which -the metal flows into the mold cell to form a slug. - -At the present time there are two styles of mouthpieces in general -use: The wedge mouthpiece which has a gib or wedge to fasten it -in the slot of the crucible to make a tight fit; and the screw -mouthpiece which fastens on to the crucible by means of screws. - -On all mouthpieces small cross vents are cut downward between each -of the holes. There is also a vent which is cut from the first hole -on the right-hand end of the mouthpiece. The cross vents allow the -air to escape from the mold cell as the metal is forced in. These -vents play a very important part in the casting of good slugs. If the -vents are stopped up with dross or cold metal, the air can not escape -from the mold cell. This causes a slug with air bubbles, making a -light-weight slug. These air bubbles, when near the face of the type, -allow the letters to be crushed in when put under pressure on the -press. Also, the entire slug may be forced down, causing much delay -in printing. - -Care must be taken in cutting the vents in a mouthpiece so they do -not extend very far above the top of the holes in the mouthpiece and -that they are not too deep. They should be deep in the center and -come to a very fine edge at the ends. All that is needed is to get -the air out of the mold quickly. Ordinarily this can be accomplished -by cleaning the vents with a sharp pointed scraper but be careful -not to mar the mouthpiece. When the vents are opened properly there -should be a sprue of metal below the vents on the back of the mold -about ½ to ¾ of an inch long after the slug is cast. - -A vent that is cut too deep will have too much sprue, causing an -unnecessary amount of shavings on the floor and about the machine, -and sometimes causing machine troubles. - -It should seldom be necessary to drill out the holes in a mouthpiece. -If the metal is properly cared for in remelting, and the mouthpiece -is kept at the proper temperature, the metal will usually flow freely -through the holes. However, if it is found necessary to drill out -the holes, never use larger than a 1/16 inch or No. 51 drill, which -will not make the holes larger than their original size. When using -the drill, it should be immersed in oil after each hole is drilled, -to prevent the drill from becoming too hot and breaking off in the -hole. Enlarging the mouthpiece holes will work satisfactorily on -large faces 8-point or above; but when the smaller faces are used the -product will not have a clear-cut face. - - -TO REMOVE A MOUTHPIECE - -When it is necessary to remove a mouthpiece for cleaning out the -throat of the crucible, mark a line on the face of the crucible to -align with the first hole on the right end of the mouthpiece. When -replacing the mouthpiece the line will be your guide. By so adjusting -there will be a full hole on each end of the slug when casting the -different lengths, with the exception of half-pica measures. A hole -on the adjustable or left end being partly covered by the liner in -the mold would cause no trouble. If part of the first hole should be -covered by the constant liner, the first letter on the right end of -the slug would be blurred, or would not cast sharply, because the -metal cools quickly on the ends of the mold, and a full, free flow is -necessary. - -The mouthpiece should always be removed when the metal is hot. If -removed when cold there would be danger of breaking the pot crucible. - -When removing the wedge style mouthpiece, place the vise in second -position, lift out the mold slide, place a block of wood between -the right side of the pot jacket and the slideway, drive the -mouthpiece toward the keyboard, using a piece of brass as a drift. -The above operation is necessary to loosen the wedge. The instant the -mouthpiece moves, the wedge will become loose and can be lifted out. - -Another method of removal is to grip the left-hand end of the gib -with a pair of pliers, pulling the end of the gib forward and -wrapping it around the pliers, prying against a piece of brass rule -placed along the face of the mouthpiece. Care must be used in this -method to hold the pliers at such an angle that the lip of the -crucible will not be damaged while removing the gib. - -Always have a new gib on hand before removing a mouthpiece, for it is -difficult to use an old one in replacing a mouthpiece. - -In replacing an old mouthpiece, extreme care must be taken to see -that it is perfectly clean and straight. Clean the mouthpiece -thoroughly and with a straight-edge test the mouthpiece to see that -it is straight. If not, straighten it, being careful not to damage. -This need not be done with a new mouthpiece. - -Before placing the mouthpiece in the crucible, remove the left-hand -vise locking stud nut and pull out the stud. Be careful not to lose -the small brass washer which is on the stud. The removal of the stud -permits the sliding in of the mouthpiece easily. The lips and the -slot of the crucible, which are the seat for the mouthpiece, must be -entirely free from all dirt and dross or the mouthpiece can not seat -properly. - -It is best to fit a mouthpiece to its seat by placing a very thin -coating of fine emery and oil (fine valve grinding compound is good) -on the back and top part of the mouthpiece. This method cleans the -seat of all the accumulated dross and dirt. Place the mouthpiece in -position in the pot so the top of mouthpiece is against the top seat -and move back and forth, bearing lightly against the mouthpiece, -until the high spots are ground down, so as to have the seat -straight. When doing this, care must be taken not to get the paste -on any other part of the machine, as it might cause trouble. The -metal should be at casting temperature while fitting a mouthpiece. -To hold the mouthpiece for this operation, procure a piece of wood -furniture the same width and length of the mouthpiece, fasten this -to the mouthpiece by driving a headless brad in each end of the wood -directly in line with the last hole on each end of the mouthpiece. -By placing the wood on the mouthpiece the brads pass through the two -holes and make a very serviceable holder. - -After fitting the mouthpiece, thoroughly clean all parts of the -crucible lip, slot, and mouthpiece. The least particle of grit may -cause trouble. - -Fit the gib by dressing it, so that it will drive far enough to the -right to make a tight fit. Cover the top and bottom with a thin -coating of red lead and oil. Place the mouthpiece in position, the -first hole in line with the mark on the crucible. Insert the wedge -in the lower side and push it in as far as possible with a pair of -pliers. Then drive in the gib so as to secure the mouthpiece firmly. -Be careful that the mouthpiece does not move as the gib is being -driven in. Lay a brass rule against the whole length of the gib and -tap lightly with a hammer to firmly locate the gib on the seat, and -at the same time, bring the outer edge of the gib slightly below the -face of the mouthpiece. - -After driving the mouthpiece to its proper position see that the -ends are not burred; if so, file them off, as they might prevent the -mouthpiece from locking up properly against the mold, and cause a -back squirt. - -The screw mouthpiece is held to the crucible by 13 screws. The screw -holes in the mouthpiece are counter-sunk so the heads of these screws -will not extend beyond the face of the mouthpiece. - -To remove the screw style mouthpiece from the crucible, use the pot -mouth screw loosener obtainable from the Linotype Company. Fit the -loosener in the groove of the screw and tap the head with a hammer. -As the screws will be tight, due to the heat and dross, this tapping -will loosen them without damaging the screw heads. The screws can -then be removed with a screw-driver. - -Some features of the new mouthpiece are: There is no danger of -breaking the lips of the crucible by driving the wedge in too far; -it also eliminates the possibilities of battering the ends of the -mouthpiece, as with the wedge style; leaking around the mouthpiece -and improper setting when taken off and replaced is less likely to -occur. - -Due to the width of the face, one mouthpiece is sufficient for a slug -of any size. This eliminates the necessity for a special mouthpiece -for display, which was necessary with the older models. - -Before replacing a screw mouthpiece be sure to thoroughly clean -the surface of the crucible and the back of the mouthpiece of all -dirt and dross. Place a thin coating of red lead and oil on the -back of the mouthpiece and place it in position. Tighten the screws -gradually, beginning at the ends and working toward the center. - - -METAL POT ADJUSTMENTS - -There are two pot leg bushings which fit over the vise frame shaft -and project up into the fork of the pot leg. These support the metal -pot and hold it in position to lock up with the mold. The position of -the pot in relation to the mouthpiece is determined by four adjusting -screws in each pot leg and bearing against the bushings. These -screws permit the proper alignment of the mold and mouthpiece. - -The holes in the mouthpiece, through which the metal passes to the -mold cell, should align with the smooth or constant side of the slug, -as this side of the mold always remains in the same position. When -using the mold liners for the different points of thickness of slugs, -the position of the mold cap changes. If the holes should align with -the rib side of a slug of large size, when changing to 6-point slug -the mold cap would cover the holes, thus shutting off the flow of -metal and causing an imperfect lockup or imperfect slugs. - -The two screws at the top and bottom of each pot leg are for the -purpose of aligning the holes in the mouthpiece with the constant -side of the mold. - -To make this adjustment, remove the mold and take it apart. Clean -thoroughly the mold and mold pocket. Leave the cap off and place the -constant part of the mold back in the pocket with a 30-em left-hand -liner and a constant right-hand liner in the mold. Remove the plunger -pin for safety. Turn the machine until the first elevator rests on -the vise cap. The mold should now be in front of the mouthpiece. -Raise the first elevator, holding it up with a piece of wood, one end -under the head of the slide and the other on the upper end of the -vise automatic stop rod. Close the vise. Unlock the mold cam lever, -move the mold disk forward by hand so the locking studs can enter -the bushings. Turn the machine by hand until the mouthpiece advances -against the mold. Release the two front adjusting screws a trifle so -the pot legs can move freely while making the adjustment. Release the -lock nuts and move the top and bottom screws until the bottom of the -holes in the mouthpiece are in line with the constant part of the -mold, and the two end holes are showing within the liners. Tighten -the lock nuts and the front adjusting screws after finishing the -adjustment. - -A great amount of lockup trouble is caused by the mouthpiece on the -metal pot not locking up squarely against the mold, due to the front -and back pot leg screws being out of adjustment or the mouthpiece -being warped. - -To adjust the pot legs so the mouthpiece will lock up squarely with -the mold, place the machine and the mold (without the cap) and the -30-em liners in the same position as when adjusting the height, but -have the mold cam lever connected to the mold slide. Leave a little -space between the mold and the mouthpiece. Place a piece of tissue -paper at each end of the mold between the mold and the mouthpiece. -Have the paper just inside the ends of the liners. Turn the machine -forward until the pump lever is ready to go down for the cast. Be -sure the plunger pin has been removed, to prevent accidentally -forcing the metal out of the pot. - -If the left-hand paper should be tight and the right-hand paper -loose, loosen the front pot screw at the left and turn in on the -back screw. This will move the left end of the mouthpiece farther -back. Adjust with the front and back screws in this manner until both -papers are held tightly. - -After completing the adjustment, replace the cap on the mold and turn -the machine to normal position. - -Another method of testing the pot lockup is to let the machine -make the quarter revolution which brings the mold in front of the -mouthpiece. Disconnect the mold lever and pull the mold slide -forward. Apply a thin even coating of a mixture of red lead and oil, -or printers’ ink, to the back of the mold. Be sure to have the mold -clean. Hold out the mold disk driving pinion, so the disk will not -revolve, and let the machine run around without casting. The mixture -will transfer from the mold to the mouthpiece. If the mouthpiece is -touching only on one end of the mold it can be adjusted by the screws -in the sides of the pot legs. Adjust them to swing the crucible to -bring about a tight fit, repeating the above test until the transfer -is registering evenly the full length of the mouthpiece. After each -test wipe off the mouthpiece and mold, for any oil or too much red -lead or ink would give a false impression. - -If the mouthpiece touches at both ends and not in the center or in -the center and not on the ends, it indicates that the mouthpiece is -warped and the above adjustments would not be satisfactory. - -When the mouthpiece is warped or high, it is necessary to take -out the high spots with a fine file or an oil stone. Take off a -very little of the surface at a time and repeat the tests with the -red lead until a proper lockup is secured all the way across the -mouthpiece. - -After fitting up a mouthpiece in this manner, the vents should be cut -to their original depth. - -After making the pot adjustments, test the mold slide adjustment to -make sure that it brings the face of the mold to within .010 of an -inch from the face of the matrices. See that the pot lever has the -1/16 of an inch play needed during lockup. - -Be sure the washers on the pot lever shaft are so placed that the -sides of the lever do not bear on the cams. - - -POT LEVER - -The pot lever is located directly back of the metal pot and, through -cam No. 8 and the pot cam roller, gives the pot its forward and -backward action. There is a cushion spring on the pot lever eyebolt -that connects the lower end of the pot lever to the pot jacket. This -spring gives the lockup of the pot and mold and takes up all excess -motion of the lever during the lockup. - -There is a short piece of pipe pinned to the eyebolt inside of the -spring, which prevents having too much tension on the spring. The nut -on the front is the adjusting nut. This nut has a washer next to the -spring, to keep the spring from being forced over the head of the -nut. This nut should be tight against the pipe. With the end of the -rear nut against the pipe on the bolt, there should be 1/16 of an -inch from the back of the pot lever to the head of the nut when the -machine is in casting position. This 1/16 of an inch adjustment gives -the correct lockup to the pot and also prevents breaking the lever by -too much pressure. - -The pot lever spring should be examined frequently, as back squirts -will be caused by a spring which is broken or worn. This trouble is -caused by not giving pressure enough to the mouthpiece when it is -being locked against the mold for the cast. - -A lever spring weak, worn, or out of adjustment will also cause an -uneven height of the matrices, due to the lack of pressure during the -cast. - -When it is necessary to remove a pot lever spring, pull the pot -forward by hand, place a support beneath the pot jacket to hold the -pot lever roll off the cam. Remove the pot balancing spring, take off -the rear nut on the eyebolt and push back on the lever. The spring -can then be removed. - -The roller in the pot lever has nine anti-friction roller bearings. -These rollers should frequently be examined for wear, and if found -worn should be renewed, because a set of worn anti-friction rollers -will also cause an imperfect lockup. When renewing these rollers, put -in all nine new ones. If a roller is worn or broken, or the bearing -pin or pot lever roller worn, there will be play between the lever -and cam, which will prevent a tight lockup. - -To take out the pot lever: Pull the pot forward by hand, place a -support beneath the pot jacket, remove the balancing spring, loosen -the screw in the upper shaft bearing, and pull the shaft out. On the -upper shaft bearing on each side of the pot lever, are washers of -varying thickness. These washers are for the purpose of adjusting the -pot lever sidewise so it will not bind on the main cams. When taking -out this shaft be careful that the washers are not lost or mixed. - -Take out the wing pin that holds the eyebolt to the pot jacket. Place -the lever on the bench and take out roller bearings by releasing -the set screw and pulling out the roller pin. Before replacing the -bearings, in the lower roller, coat them with vaseline or hard -grease. By placing a small piece of an old keyboard rubber roll in -the hole, so the bearings fit around it, they will be held in place -until the pin is slipped through. The pin will force the rubber out. - -Fastened to the back of the pot lever, at the right-hand side, is the -pot return cam shoe. As the main cams revolve, the pot return cam, -fastened to cam No. 9, comes in contact with the shoe, pulling the -pot away from the mold after the slug has been cast. - - -REMOVING A POT - -To remove a pot from a machine: Remove the plunger, dip as much metal -out of the pot as possible. Lower the first elevator to the vise cap, -and let vise down to second position. Remove the mold slide. Take -off the pot leg caps. Loosen the front adjusting screws in the pot -legs. Loosen the nut on the pot lever eyebolt, to release the spring -tension. Take out the pot lever shaft, and remove the pot lever. Take -off the mold disk shield and pump stop bracket. The pot can then be -lifted out by placing a rope through the supports on the jacket for -the pot lever shaft, so that the pot can be raised up while it is -being guided out of the machine by taking hold of the bottom of the -pot legs. - - -SLUG TROUBLES - -An imperfect face on slugs could be caused by any of the following: -Holes in the mouthpiece not inside the slug line, holes in the -mouthpiece closed, or partly so; vents in the mouthpiece filled up, -or insufficient ventage; dross in the throat of the pot back of the -mouthpiece, mold cell rough inside, due to being damaged; mold cell -dirty or oily, inferior metal, holes from the pot to the well stopped -up, plunger not clearing the well holes, plunger or pot well dirty, -governor not working properly, temperature of the metal not adapted -to the size of slug being cast, cold metal. Too large a hole in the -mouthpiece will give a small slug an imperfect face. - -When the slug is cold, the body of the slug may be solid and have -a stringy or flaky appearance, and the face may be imperfect, some -of the letters being poorly cast or blurred. The base of the slug -usually will be good. - -When the slug is too hot the face is good, but the body is hollow and -spongy and the slug is light. It is imperfectly formed, due to the -heat of the metal. - -A bright bottom on a slug shows that the mold knife has trimmed a -thin layer of metal from the bottom of the slug, due to an imperfect -lockup, the excess metal running over the bottom of the mold. If -the mouthpiece makes a perfect contact with the mold at the moment -of casting, there will be no excess metal and the slug will show a -clean bottom. - -An imperfect lockup can be caused by any of the following: Cold -metal due to low gas pressure, dirty burners, gas burning in mixer, -improper packing around the mouthpiece, or improperly packed metal -pot; hot metal, too much metal in the pot, dirty plunger or well, -air vents cut too deep, air vents cut too high above holes, dull -mold knife, pot cam lever roller or bearing pin worn, pot lever not -working freely on the lever shaft, due to gum or lack of oil; metal -on the bottom of the mold, mold knife out of adjustment, mold disk -guide out of adjustment, leaky mouthpiece, warped mold, pot lever -spring weak or broken, accumulation of metal back of the mold disk, -mold cap guides bent, loose stay bolt, loose adjusting screws on pot -legs. - - - - -GASOLINE BURNER - - -There are three methods commonly used to heat a metal pot: Gasoline -burner, gas burner, and electric heater. - -The gasoline burner in most cases is undesirable on account of cost, -time, and fire hazard; but through the lack of electrical current or -gas it must sometimes be used. - -There is a burner designed for either gasoline or kerosene by the -Linotype Company. This burner will give complete combustion in -burning either gasoline or kerosene. It has no threaded joints -and, therefore, no joints to leak. It is equipped with a positive -mouthpiece burner and control. This burner can be taken apart for -cleaning without removing any screws. The fuel is forced to the -burner from a pressure tank. With this improved mouthpiece burner -control, the burner may be adjusted for a slug of any size. The best -results can be obtained from a gasoline or kerosene burner by keeping -it clean. - - - - -GAS BURNERS - - -The gas burner used to heat the metal pot is made up of three -sections. The largest burner heats the main part of the pot. Another -pipe leads up to heat the throat, and a small burner heats the -mouthpiece. The pot and throat burners are held near the pot by a -rod which passes through the pot jacket and under the pot burner. The -mouthpiece burner is held in place by a support and a screw which -extends into the pot jacket. - -The gas enters the burners through the pot gas burner cocks. The gas -cock that feeds the pot burner has a larger inlet hole than those of -the throat or the mouthpiece burners, because more gas is required -for the pot burner. The inlet holes must be kept open and free from -soot and metal, but should never be drilled larger at any time. -Should you find a burner tip that has been drilled, a new tip should -be applied by driving out the old tip and inserting a new one. - -As the gas leaves the gas cock it passes through the air mixer. The -air mixer is open on the bottom side and allows a flow of air to mix -with the gas. Unless the gas is mixed with the proper amount of air -it will not make sufficient heat under the pot. Do not at any time -allow the gas to burn in the mixer. Sometimes when lighting the gas -or when the pressure is low the flame may light in the mixer. It -should then be turned out and relighted, holding a flame near the -burner. Should the gas be allowed to burn in the mixer the heat will -be lost before it reaches the burner; and furthermore, the burner -will soon become clogged with soot. - -From the mixer, the gas passes upward into the pot burner. The pot -burner consists of a circular shaped chamber which is covered with -a flat plate. The top rim of the chamber is notched, which allows -the gas to flow out around the top plate, forming a very hot flame. -The flame from the burner should be of a bluish appearance. A dirty -burner will cause a yellow flame. There is very little heat in a -yellow flame, and when the burner shows a yellow flame, it usually -indicates a dirty burner or a fire in the mixer. A very important -part of the burner is the top plate. When this plate becomes warped -or badly burned it should be replaced with a new one. - -Two pipes lead out from the front end of the pot burner to carry -a flame up under the crucible throat. These pipes are fed through -the front gas cock. The gas passes through a separate chamber in -the front side of the pot burner. It is very essential that these -burners are working properly as they keep the metal hot in the throat -of the crucible. - -The mouthpiece burner consists of a small pipe into which holes -have been drilled to allow the gas to escape. This burner extends -underneath the mouth of the crucible the full length of the -mouthpiece. There are two extra holes on the right-hand end to give -a little more flow of gas at that point. The holes should never be -reamed out larger, but should be kept clean and free from soot or -metal. Metal sometimes gets through the holes and partly fills the -pipe. This retards the free flow of gas and causes loss of heat to -the mouthpiece. - -Good slugs from a machine are to a great extent dependent on good, -clean burners. Only experience on various machines will enable one -to tell just how much flame to carry in each burner on a machine. -The governor should regulate the pot and throat burners, when once -adjusted. However, it is better for the operator to regulate the -mouthpiece burner with the gas cock, according to the size of the -slug being cast. - - -GAS POT HINTS - -Keep gas tips clean and round. A blue flame is the heating flame. -Watch the mouthpiece burner. Clean out metal and dross which forms -there due to metal dripping from the mouthpiece. - -If the mouthpiece burner does not give a long, blue flame after -cleaning, procure a new mouthpiece burner and replace the old one. - -A yellow flame indicates too little air in the mixture. This can be -caused from too large a hole in the gas tip, air inlet partly closed, -dirty burners, or gas burning in the mixer. Sometimes the hole in the -tip of the gas cock is too large. The hole can be paned with a small -hammer and reamed out with a small broach to the proper size. - -The pot burner top plate is fastened by four stove bolts. These bolts -become charred and brittle from the heat, and the nuts will be very -hard to start. Have a few of these bolts on hand when changing the -plates, because the plate must fit tightly to the burner to obtain -the best results. - -Good slugs can not be produced with dirty burners. Keep them clean. -It is better to spend ten or fifteen minutes cleaning the burners -than to lose an hour trying to regulate the temperature of the metal. - - -TO REMOVE THE GAS BURNERS - -Disconnect the hose on the older styles or the gas pipe union on -the newer styles. Separate the mouthpiece burner from the crucible -at the sleeve. (This operation is not necessary on the thermostat -connections.) Pull out the rod which holds the burners in place and -lift them out. - -To remove the mouthpiece burner, take out the screw which holds the -support to the jacket of the pot, slip the connecting sleeve back, -and pull the burner to the left. - - - - -PRESSURE GOVERNOR - - -The pressure governor is used to control the flow of gas to the -machine and to keep it at an even pressure. The governor is placed on -the main gas line so the gas must pass through it before flowing to -the machine. It is not necessary to have a pressure governor on each -machine, for where there is more than one machine, a governor large -enough to supply any amount may be secured. - -The gas enters through a valve in the bottom of the governor and -passes up into the supply chamber. From the supply chamber the gas -flows out to the machine burner. The pressure in the supply chamber -is regulated by an inverted cup float. The lower rim of the float is -immersed in mercury, which causes the cup to float and also acts as -a seal to prevent the gas escaping through the top of the governor. -Weights are placed on top of the float to counterbalance the gas -pressure. Fastened to the float is a rod which passes through the gas -chamber. This rod connects to and operates the valve in the inlet -opening. When the gas pressure is increased it raises the float by -its pressure. When the float raises, it at the same time raises the -valve in the intake, which decreases the opening through which the -gas enters. Should the pressure in the main fall off, the float -sinks deeper into the mercury, and the opening in the valve is -opened, permitting a greater flow of gas. Thus the pressure in the -gas chamber is held uniform, because the greater the pressure on the -float, the smaller the opening for the gas to enter. - -To regulate the pressure, place weights on the float until sufficient -gas flows to the burners to give a good flame. - - - - -MERCURY GAS GOVERNOR - - -In a governor of this style, the gas from the main line passes -through the upper pipe, down through the internal tube, and escapes -between the end of this tube and a column of mercury in the mercury -tube, passing up behind the internal tube, and out through the lower -pipe to the burners. - -To prepare the governor for use, remove the adjusting rod and pour -in mercury until it rises in the mercury tube almost to the lower -end of the internal tube, which can be seen through the glass disk -at the side of the governor. When the metal in the pot reaches the -proper temperature, the surface of the mercury stands at the lower -end of the internal tube, but a notch in the side of this tube above -the mercury permits a flow of gas sufficient to prevent shutting the -gas entirely off underneath the pot. When the temperature falls, the -mercury in the holder and column will be cooled, and its surface -lowered in the tube. This will allow an increased flow of gas to the -burner until the temperature of the pot is raised to the proper point. - -The regulation of the governor is effected by moving the adjusting -rod in or out. If the temperature in the pot is too high and the -mercury fails to close the tube, the adjusting rod must be moved in -until the mercury raises in the tube. If the temperature in the pot -is too low, the mercury closes the tube before the proper temperature -is reached in the pot. Thus the rod must be moved out until the -mercury is lowered from the top of the tube to the proper extent. - - - - -THERMOSTAT GAS GOVERNOR - - -The supply of gas at the burners is controlled by the expansion and -contraction of rods immersed in the molten metal in the crucible at -the left-hand side of the metal pot. These rods are of a special -alloy, which is extremely sensitive to variations of heat. No mercury -is used, so that the governor is not affected by the pressure of the -gas at any time. - -The principle upon which the thermostat is built, is the difference -in expansion of two metals under heat. - -The part of the thermostat which is immersed in the metal is made of -cast iron and has a hole or pocket in which the rod of composition -metal sets. The upper end pushes against a hinged lever; the other -end of this lever operates a valve plunger. The expansion of the -thermostat rod being greater than cast iron, raises the valve lever, -which forces down the valve plunger, seating the plunger nearer the -valve seat. This cuts down the flow of gas to the burners. The rod -contracts as the metal cools, and allows the valve spring to open the -valve. - -Underneath the valve rod cap and encircling the valve rod, is a -spiral spring which raises the valve rod as the expansion rod -contracts, which opens the gas inlet, and also keeps the expansion -rod pushed to the bottom of the pocket. - -In the lower end of the valve is a hole to prevent the burner going -out if valve is entirely closed. This hole must not be enlarged. - -The valve adjusting screw is slotted and has a setscrew inserted -through the valve lever to keep the adjusting screw from turning. -Between the head of the adjusting screw and under part of the lever -is a spring which forces the head of adjusting screw against the cap -of the valve. When tightening up on the adjusting nut the spring -closes, releasing some of the pressure on the valve, permitting more -gas to pass the valve. By loosening the adjusting nut the spring -expands, forcing the valve down, cutting down the flow of gas to the -burners. - -To adjust thermostat, if metal is not hot enough, raise the adjusting -screw by turning the adjusting nut farther down; if the metal is too -hot, unscrew adjusting nut, allowing the adjusting screw to force the -valve farther down. - -The screw in the top of the expansion rod is for the purpose of -making the rod longer, should occasion require. Do not change this -screw unless necessary. - -There are two sets of rods and valves on the regular equipment. One -set regulates the gas to the pot burners and the other regulates -the gas to the mouthpiece burner. Experience has shown that it is -impractical to regulate the mouthpiece from the crucible, so cut off -this part of the regulation and use a gas burner cock. - - - - -ELECTRIC POT DEFINITIONS - - -The circuit is that part of the equipment such as copper wires, -resistance wires, switches, etc., which is intended to carry electric -current. They are all insulated from the frame of the pot. - -The current is the electricity passing through the equipment. - -Amperes is the volume of current passing through. - -Volts is the strength or pressure of the current. - -A watt is the product of the volts multiplied by the amperes. - -A kilowatt is 1,000 watts. - -A kilowatt hour is one kilowatt of current used for one hour. - -A ground is a bare part of the electric circuit accidentally touching -the frame of the pot. - -A short circuit is one or more grounds which will allow the current -to take a shorter path. - -An open is an interruption in the electric circuit such as a broken -wire, etc. - -Resistance is an obstruction in the electric circuit retarding the -flow of current. - -Series connection means that two or more units are connected in line -with each other. Current enters one terminal, passes through the -windings, out of the other terminal, and directly into the next unit, -through its windings, and out to the opposite side of the line. - -Parallel or multiple connection means that two or more units are -wired in such a way that each makes a complete circuit of themselves. -Current enters a unit, passing through its windings, and directly -back to the line. - -Shunt—A conductor joining two points in a circuit and designed to -divert part of the current. - -An electrical circuit carrying current can best be simply explained -by considering an iron pipe through which water is flowing under -pressure. The pipe represents the circuit, and water passing through -it represents the current. The volume of water flowing represents the -amperes, and the pressure of the water represents the volts. A leak -which allows the water to escape represents a short circuit, and a -valve in the pipe partially closed represents resistance. - - - - -ELECTRIC POT - - -The electrical equipment consists of four heaters, a dynamic -thermometer, and a unit control panel. The passage of electric -current through the windings inside the heaters generates heat which -melts the metal in the crucible and raises it to the proper operating -temperature, while the dynamic thermometer and the magnetic switch -on the control panel operate to keep the metal at this predetermined -temperature. These equipments are either 110 to 120 volts or 210 to -220 volts, direct current or alternating current. - -The crucible heaters are the same for all voltages; they are -connected in “series” for 200-volt to 250-volt circuits and in -“parallel” for 100-volt to 125-volt circuits. They are immersed -directly in the metal and partially surround the pump-well, heating -the metal by direct contact. The heating element or resistor of these -heaters is composed of resistant ribbon wound on strips of clear -mica. Strips of mica entirely surround the resistor, completely -insulating it from the metal parts of the pot. The resistors are -protected by strong metal casings which surround them. They are not -subject to wear and tear in normal service. - -Heating the metal by direct contact from within the metal itself by -these heaters, makes a very efficient equipment, as all of the heat -generated is immediately transmitted to the metal exactly where it -is required, and there is no loss of heat due to faulty conduction. -The dynamic thermometer bulb being immersed in the metal adjacent to -the heaters and the pump-well, permits of a very close temperature -regulation. - -As these heaters extend nearly the full height of the metal in the -crucible and pass down through the top of the metal, there is no -possibility of cracking a crucible. When the metal begins to heat, -it is that portion in direct contact with the heaters which first -becomes molten. Internal pressure is relieved by this melted pathway -and the molten metal will flow to the top of the pot. - -It is important that the pot never be filled with metal above the -under side of the ring which is cast on the inside of the crucible. -If the crucible is filled above this ring, metal may splash over into -the heating insulating material and touch the electric terminals, -grounding them. - -The crucible heater must be entirely covered with metal at all times. -If they are not, that portion that is exposed to the air will get -very hot and continued exposure will burn them out, destroying them. -They are not designed for operation in the air. - -Do not pry around the units with a screwdriver or pound on them, if -the metal envelope is punctured, molten metal will immediately enter, -grounding the element and destroying the unit. - -The temperature in the crucible is controlled by an adjustable -dynamic thermometer mounted on the side of the pot, and which -operates a switch in the control panel, turning the current on and -off as needed. The bulb and tube of this thermometer contain mercury -and the bulb is immersed in the metal in front of the well of the -crucible. The tube is connected to a flattened hollow coiled spring -tube. The mercury also passes through this air tight spring tube. -On the free end of this coiled spring tube is fastened an insulated -pin which operates the contact lever. The contact lever is suspended -downward between two metal contact disks. These contact disks and -the contact lever are connected to the main line through a magnetic -switch mounted in the control panel. The thermometer only carries -current long enough for the magnetic switch to connect and then the -current is carried directly through the switch. - -As the temperature of the metal rises the mercury in the bulb -expands causing the coiled spring to uncoil slightly, driving the -contact lever against the disk that shuts off the current, allowing -the switch to fall open and disconnecting the circuit through the -crucible heaters. - -As the temperature of the metal falls, the mercury in the bulb -contracts allowing the coiled spring to force the contact lever -against the disk that turns the current on by connecting the switch -to the main line. The variation in the temperature is held within 15 -degrees of the average working temperature. - -The temperature control is normally set for a maximum of 550 degrees -and a minimum of 535 degrees, that is, with normal operation the -temperature of the metal will always be between these limits. This -is found to give the best all around casting results for average -metal. In case it is desired at any time to change the operating -temperature, this can be done by turning adjusting screw right-handed -for hotter metal, and left-handed for cooler metal. The head of this -adjusting screw projects through the right-hand side of the dynamic -thermometer cover. - -Do not change the position of the control disks, unless badly pitted, -as their relative distance is determined at the factory, and very -seldom need to be changed. - -A good thermometer should always be used when adjusting the screw for -proper heat. Guessing will not get the proper results. - -With ordinary work, and after the metal is at operating temperature, -the current will be on and the crucible heaters generating heat about -three minutes, then off and not generating heat about twelve minutes, -and will repeat this cycle as long as snap switch is left in the “on” -position. - - -THROAT AND MOUTHPIECE HEATERS - -The mouth and throat heaters are clamped in close contact with the -outside of the crucible throat to keep the metal at the operating -temperature while being pumped from the crucible to the mold. The -throat heater extends the full length of the pot throat and is held -in close contact with it. The mouth heater is clamped tightly to the -pot mouth. Both heaters are surrounded with heat insulating material -and are held in close contact with the pot throat and mouth by a -U-shaped clamp under the throat unit and a plate over the mouth unit, -drawn tight by two nuts. - -The mouth and throat heaters are always connected in “series,” one -set being used for 100-volt to 125-volt and another set for 200-volt -to 250-volt. - -The heat for the throat and mouth units are controlled by a manually -controlled rheostat moving from the left to the right, and fastened -to the front of the control panel under and at the rear of the -keyboard. - -The rheostat is connected directly to the mouth and throat heater and -is not controlled by the dynamic thermometer. - -The crucible heaters are intended for heating the metal to the proper -temperature, and the mouth and throat heaters are only intended to -keep the metal at the proper temperature while being forced from the -crucible to the mold. - -If the voltage is irregular and remains too high for some time, or -a speedy operator casts large slugs at a rapid rate continuously, -the mouthpiece is apt to become heated and the slugs will have -hollow backs. In this case it will be necessary to turn rheostat -knob left-handed, but if the voltage remains low for some length of -time, or a slow operator casts small slugs slowly, the mouthpiece may -become cold and the slugs will have poor faces, in which case the -rheostat knob should be turned right-handed. - -When casting large slugs in rapid succession the mold is apt to -become heated, but attempting to regulate the temperature of the -metal in the crucible to overcome the heating of the mold will fail, -because the electric pot is a heating unit only and will not cool the -mold. - -The control panel consists of a magnet switch mounted on a slate -panel enclosed in a steel cabinet. The cabinet also has a suitable -fuse cut-out and the switches which control both the pot and the -electric motor (if used) and places all controls within easy reach of -the operator. Connection is made between the pot proper, the dynamic -thermometer, and the control panel by suitable wiring enclosed in a -flexible conduit. - - -CARE OF ELECTRIC METAL POT - -The contact points on the thermometer and the magnetic switch should -be kept clean and free from corrosion. Use No. 00 sand-paper. (Never -use emery cloth or paper.) Dirt and corrosion are electrical -insulators, and if these contacts become dirty, electrical contact -may not be made when the temperature reaches 550 degrees F.; the -magnetic switch will not open and the crucible heaters will continue -to increase the temperature of the metal until the fuses are blown; -the dynamic thermometer permanently injured, or the heating units -burned out. When the temperature reaches above 550 degrees, the metal -is too hot, causing back squirts. When the metal has cooled, the -contacts, owing to the dirt, will not operate, and the metal will -continue to cool until it can not be used. The contact points should -be cleaned about once each two weeks. - -The hole in the hollow tube connecting the bulb and the flattened -coil spring of the dynamic thermometer is very small and care must -be taken that the tube is not injured when feeding metal to the pot, -or that no sharp bends are made in it, as it will close the hole and -interfere with the proper working of the thermometer. - -Occasionally some of the parts such as the heaters, thermometer, or -the wiring inside the pot may become damaged and will have to be -replaced. In ordering the new parts for replacements, be sure to -specify the voltage being used and the serial number of the pot. This -number plate can be found on top of the pot cover. - -It is seldom that both crucible heaters will be burned out at the -same time, so if your pot is a 100 to 125-volt equipment, and one of -the crucible heaters tests open or grounded, and must be removed and -replaced, the metal in the crucible may be heated by the crucible -heater that is in good condition; but if your pot is 200 to 250-volt -equipment, and one of the crucible heaters must be replaced, it will -be necessary to melt the metal in the crucible with a blow torch -before either crucible heater can be removed. It is not necessary to -remove the metal from the pot. Merely keep the metal agitated while -melting it with the blow torch. - -Frequently a heating unit is burned out by a little metal splashing -on the terminals, causing a gradual short circuit. This trouble can -be eliminated by wrapping the heater terminals with asbestos tape. - -When cleaning the contact points on the dynamic thermometer, it is -necessary to remove the cover by taking out the two long flat head -screws. This cover should be examined for small particles of metal -before replacing. - -To remove and replace a damaged wire in the pot, fasten another wire -securely to one end of it, grasp the other end with a pair of pliers -and pull. The new wire will be pulled in as the old one is removed. - -Rubber covered wire or slow burning wire is not satisfactory. A -special wire with a special grade of insulation should be used. - -If it becomes necessary to remove the dynamic thermometer, heat the -metal in the crucible to operating temperature and then turn the -main switch off. Disconnect the thermometer wiring and dip out the -metal to below the level of the thermometer bulb. Take off the pot -cover and remove the two screws fastening the thermometer case to -the bracket. Grasp the case with the hand and the bulb with a pair -of pliers and raise up and out. Be very careful at all times not to -damage or break the bulb or hollow wire which contain the mercury; to -do so will cause trouble in regulating the heat. - -Replace the thermometer while the crucible is hot. See that the -bulb does not project out from the casting so as to interfere with -the insertion of ingots of cold metal. Press the tube firmly but -carefully into place over the edge of the crucible, being careful not -to injure it. Fasten the case to the bracket and reconnect the wiring -and put on the cover. - -All the pot adjustments on the electric pot are the same as on a gas -pot. - - -CURRENT CONSUMPTION - -The maximum current consumption is 1,500 watts and the minimum -325 watts, the average consumption throughout a day’s work is -approximately 600 watts or .6 kilo-watts. The cost of current -varies widely in different localities, but you may find the cost of -operating your pot by multiplying the number of hours by the cost -of current per kilowatt hour and then by .6. The result will be -the cost in cents. For instance, operating a pot nine hours with -current costing six cents per kilowatt hour would cost thirty-two and -four-tenths cents—9 x 6 x .6 equals 32.4 cents. - - -FUSES - -The main line fuses, which protect the entire system from overloads, -when blown, should be replaced by other fuses of the same rating. - -The fuse for the mouth and throat heater circuit is for the purpose -of protecting this circuit from accidents, and should always be -replaced by another fuse of the same rating. This replacing of the -fuses by others of the same rating is very important. On a 200 to -250-volt circuit, the main line fuses should be 10 amperes. The -mouth and throat fuse, which is located in the control box above the -magnetic switch, should be 3 amperes. On a 100 to 125-volt circuit -the main line fuses should be 20 amperes. The throat and mouth fuse -should be 5 amperes. Fuses of a greater amperage than those mentioned -may cause the units to burn out or cause a fire hazard. - - - - -MOLDS - - -The various models of machines placed on the market today have a -flexibility that requires a variety of molds to take care of the -varying lengths and thicknesses of slugs. The molds are adjustable -and are all removable from the mold disk should the occasion require. -The molds are all constructed along the same general line, with a -base and movable cap. The caps in all molds are held in place by two -guides, pinned on each end of the base of the mold, and projecting -into grooves in the cap. - -The base of the mold is screwed firmly to the disk, and the two -liners are held in place by the cap and the pressure from three -screws which project through the rim of the mold disk. The cap and -base being held parallel by the guides. - -To change the mold from one size of body or length of slug it is only -necessary to loosen the three screws, remove the liners and insert -the ones desired. Do not pry the cap upward with a screwdriver -inserted in the casting range of the mold cell. When tightening the -screws in the rim of the disk, bring them just to a firm bearing. -There is danger of cracking the rim if the screws are too tight. - - -THE UNIVERSAL ADJUSTABLE - -The universal adjustable mold is the one most generally used. By -removing the liners and substituting others, slugs of any length -from 5 to 30 picas and from 5 to 14 points in body may be cast. All -standard molds will cast 30-pica slugs. - -The right-hand, or constant liner, is marked for thickness only. It -is not necessary to change this liner unless the slug thickness is -changed. - -The left-hand liner is marked for thickness and length. The number -stamped for the length, subtracted from 30, gives the length of -slug which will be cast. For example, if a 13-em slug is wanted, -use liner number 17, which allows the opening in the mold to be the -required length. When ordering liners for these molds, always specify -thickness and length of slug to be cast; also specify U. A. mold. - - -THE RECESSED - -In order to cast light-weight slugs and for quick cooling, the -recessed mold is made. This mold will cast slugs with cavities, -or recesses. The base of this mold is the same as the universal -adjustable. The lower surface of the cap has rectangular projections -and grooves. The molten metal is forced into these grooves and forms -the supporting ribs beneath the type face. The rectangles form the -recesses. The weight of the slug is reduced about one-third. A more -solid slug is formed because there is less air to be displaced from -the mold. There is less metal in the mold cell, therefore it cools -more rapidly than the regular universal adjustable. These molds -require special left-hand liners and are adjustable for body size -from 10- to 14-point and all measures from 8 to 30 picas, except the -half-em measures. For these restricted measures a special mold is -required and will only be made on special order. In ordering liners -for a recessed mold you must be careful to specify “recessed mold” -and the length in ems required. These molds can be applied to any -model of machine, but must never be used for any size below 10-point. - - -DISPLAY AND HEADLETTER - -The special display and headletter mold is similar to a recessed -mold, but to accommodate the increased size of faces, the recesses -are deeper. This mold has practically the same restrictions as to -length of slug as the recessed mold. One-letter matrices with the -character for raised position must be used on this mold. The filling -piece under the first elevator jaws must be used when using the mold. -Matrices can not be sent in on the duplex rails of the assembling -elevator. - -Each display mold has a body range of 5 points only, so the entire -range of bodies from 15 to 36 points would require four of these -molds as follows: The range of one is 15 to 19 points, that is, any -width of liner from 15 to 19 points can be used on this mold; the -range of the second would be 20 to 24 points, the third would be 26 -to 30 points, the fourth, 32 to 36 points. The range of the molds are -always marked on the cap so no mistake can be made. - -In ordering liners for the display and headletter molds, care must be -taken to specify the range marked on the cap. - -These molds are limited as to length of measure the same as the -recessed molds. - - -ADVERTISING - -The advertising figure mold differs from the universal adjustable -only in the mold cap. The cap is constructed with an extra thick lip -against which the overhang in the matrices are cast. This permits of -casting large characters, which will lap over one or more adjacent -slugs. The grooves in the cap are ground parallel. With this mold -slugs from 5- to 12-point can be cast, but not above 12-point at any -time. This mold can also be used for casting headletter type, by -letting the letter overhang the slug. Place a blank slug underneath -the overhanging letters to support them. - -When using the advertising figure equipment, display figures or -characters can be cast at any desired point in the line of text -matter, the characters or figures casting on the first slug against -the lip of the mold, thus overhanging one or more other slugs when -assembled. - -In determining how large a figure may be cast on any size of slug -from 5- to 12-point, bear in mind that not over eleven points of the -figure may be cast against the lip of the mold cap. - - -CARBOLITE - -There is an adjustable mold used on some machines which is made of -carbolite steel. This mold is harder than the regular U. A. mold and -will not warp easily. However, it heats up quicker, retains the heat -longer and will not work very satisfactorily for large slugs or where -a large amount of metal is used. The regular U. A. liners are used on -this mold. - - -36-EM ADJUSTABLE - -The universal adjustable molds for 36-em machines will cast any -measure from 30- to 36-ems inclusive, from 5- to 14-point body. If a -measure shorter than 30 ems is desired a regular 30-em mold must be -used. - -In order to change liners on a 36-em mold it is necessary to take the -mold from the mold disk, as the liners fit around three sides of the -post, and can not be changed in the regular way. - -It is possible to remove the 36-em mold from the disk and substitute -a 30-em mold. A filling piece is required to take up the difference -between the 30-em and the 36-em mold. - - -MOLD WIPERS - -There are two felt wipers which are designed to keep the face and -back of the mold clean. A small amount of a mixture of cup grease and -graphite rubbed into the back wiper will keep the base of the mold -clean. For the front mold wiper, keep the felt well saturated with -graphite. Do not use oil or grease on the front wiper, or it will be -transferred onto the matrices and into the magazine. A good plan is -to soak the felt with gasoline and rub the graphite in. When the felt -becomes worn, new ones should be applied. When applying new felt, -put graphite between the layers. Be careful that the felt does not -become worn to the extent that the steel part of the wipers will be -allowed to rub against the mold. - - -MOLD HINTS - -If the mold cap guides become bent they will throw the mold cap -out of alignment with the constant side of the mold. The guides -can be straightened by removing the mold from the disk. Place a -straight-edge across the mold and cap to determine how the guides are -bent. They may be tapped with a hammer and a piece of brass rule to -spring them back in position. Care should be used in this operation -and if bent very much, the mold should be shipped to the nearest -agency for repairs. A mold with bent guides or a warped cap will -cause back squirts and to remedy these, the mold must be repaired. -Mold cap guides can be renewed by driving out the small pin that -holds them in place in the base of the mold and fitting in new ones. - -If a mold has become warped by overheating, it can be shipped to -the nearest agency to be ground. If the mold is ground on the back, -the slug will be less than type high, according to the amount taken -off in the grinding. The liners must be ground as well as the mold. -Always be very careful of the mold so this will not be necessary. - -The bottom of the mold sometimes becomes tinned. This will not -permit the mold and mouthpiece to lock up properly. The trouble can -be remedied by removing the mold from the disk and placing it on -the bench. Put a small amount of metal polish on a block of hard -wood. Rub the wood back and forth the entire length of the bottom -of the mold, with an even pressure. As the metal polish contains an -abrasive, the mold, cap, and liners should be kept together, so that -the casting edge of the mold will not be rounded. Be careful of the -molds as they are one of the most important parts of the machine and -will run indefinitely if handled intelligently. - -Take the mold apart and clean the base and the cap with the polish. -Place each part in a vise so it will be held solid while cleaning. -After using the polish, clean with gasoline. - -When metal gets into a mold cap screw in the disk after a squirt, do -not hammer the metal with a screwdriver. To do so merely drives the -metal tighter in the threads of the hole. Gouge the metal out with a -knife a little at a time. - -Do not remove the mold keeper from the mold. The mold keeper is for -the purpose of holding the lugs of the matrices in alignment. If it -is removed and not replaced properly, it will interfere with the -proper alignment of every line set. - -Keep the face of the mold clean and free from metal which has a -tendency to accumulate during the day while the mold is being used. A -clean face of the mold will greatly facilitate the press make-ready. -Metal on the mold causes high and low letters on the slug. - - - - -REMOVING AND REPLACING MOLD - - -To remove a mold from the disk, loosen the three screws in the rim of -the disk, take out the four screws which hold the mold to the disk -and lift the mold out of the pocket, being very careful not to drop -it. - -In replacing a mold in the disk, be sure that all seating surfaces of -the mold and disk are clean and free of all metal, so the mold will -align with the trimming knives and mold knife. Then bring the four -front screws to a light bearing. Next tighten the three cap screws in -the disk, the center one first. Then tighten the four front screws -tight. - - - - -DISTRIBUTOR - - -DISTRIBUTOR BAR - -The distributor bar is suspended between the distributor screws, and -is fastened to the distributor beam by two machine screws, and held -rigid by dowel pins. - -There are seven combination rails along the bar. These combination -rails are cut away in various places, and certain of the rails or -combinations terminate directly above each channel in the magazine -entrance. The V-shaped end of the matrices have combinations or -distributing teeth which engage these rails. The bar is adjusted to -proper height and position so that the matrices, leaving the top -rails of the distributor box, do not bind on the aligning plate at -the back of the bar above the rails. These adjusting screws are in -the top of the distributor beam and rest on the yoke. On the later -machines the side-wise adjustment is made by an adjusting screw -fastened to the beam and banking against the right side of the yoke. - -Each matrix has a combination corresponding to the combination -cut on the bar. The matrix is conveyed along the bar by the -distributor screws. As soon as the matrix reaches the end of the rail -corresponding to the combination on the matrix, it drops into the -channel, which guides it into the magazine. - - -CHANNEL ENTRANCE - -The channel entrance is connected to the rear end of the magazine -on the magazine frame by two hinge screws. The entrance is held in -position by a spring at the right side and fastened to the magazine -frame. - -The channel entrance consists of a number of flexible partitions, -which are assembled in the channel entrance partition plate, and act -as a guide for the matrices as they fall from the distributor bar -into the magazine. - -Each partition rests against the side of a tooth in the automatic -stopping bar. If matrices become clogged in the entrance guides, they -pile up until they come in contact with the distributor screws. This -forces the partitions against the teeth of the automatic stopping bar -which causes the distributor driving mechanism to stop. - -At the bottom of the channel entrance, on each side, and banking -against the magazine frame, are two adjusting screws which are used -to adjust the position of the channel entrance. The adjustment is -made to give the matrix free movement in transferring from the -channel entrance to the magazine under the channel entrance matrix -guard. - -The upper end of the partitions sometimes get bent to one side and -thin matrices will fall into the wrong channel, causing the channel -to clog. The lower end of the partitions should set so they will -guide the matrices into the magazine. If they are sprung to either -side they will hold the matrices and keep them from entering the -magazine, causing the matrices to clog in the channel. - -As the matrices are carried along the distributor bar by the screws, -there should be 1/16 of an inch between the bottom of a matrix -suspended on the distributor bar and the top of the channel entrance -partitions. Adjust, on models 1, 2, and 3, by the two screws in the -magazine frame which rest against the magazine supporting rods. Care -must be used in turning these screws, as they move the magazine also. - -On Model 5 or later machines, this adjustment is set at the factory, -so it is rarely necessary to change it. - - -DISTRIBUTOR SCREWS - -The conveyor screws are assembled on the distributor beam. Two of -these screws are in front of the distributor bar and one in the back. -As soon as the matrix leaves the distributor box it is conveyed along -the bar. - -On the right-hand end of the screws are the driving gears which are -pinned to the screw shaft. These gears are properly timed at the -factory so as to carry the matrix in a vertical position without -bending. - -There is a small pin projecting between two of the teeth of one gear -which must mesh with a tooth of its companion gear which is partly -cut away. This prevents the gears turning when they are improperly -timed. - -This timing is readily accomplished by forming a small triangle with -the pins in the end of the gears and the openings in the gears, or -by placing the points of the upper and lower screws on the right end -in the same relative position before connecting the gears with the -distributor clutch shaft and gear. - -Do not raise the back distributor screw while there are matrices on -the bar, as it is difficult to get their lugs in the right threads -again. - -In closing the back screw see that the pin in the gear matches with -the short tooth in the front gear. - -The old distributor screws were pitched four threads to the inch. The -new distributor screws have a much wider pitch, two threads to the -inch, consequently the matrices are moved along the bar twice as fast -to their respective channels. They are called “two-pitch screws.” - -The two-pitch screws keep the matrices widely separated on the bar, -permitting a freer distribution of large matrices. - - -DISTRIBUTOR SCREW GUARD - -The distributor screw guard is suspended between the front conveyor -screws and fits over the lower screw. This guard is for the purpose -of deflecting the matrix away from the lower screw as it drops from -the combination bar. - -On models 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 18, and 19, this guard is fastened by two -nuts to the two machine screws projecting through the front side of -the combination bar. - -On models 8, 14, and 14-s-k this guard is loose, working on a fulcrum -rod, and operated by the distributor screw guard lever and the -right-hand locating bar. The lever is fastened to the right-hand -magazine frame guide by a fulcrum screw. Whenever the locating levers -are shifted for the purpose of raising or lowering the magazine -frames, a screw on the right-hand locating lever moves against the -guard lever and forces the guard upward. If there are any matrices -on the combination bar when attempting to change the position of -the magazines, this guard will strike them, and prevent the guard -from making the full upward stroke. Retarding the bar prevents the -locating levers and blocks from moving far enough to clear the bar -stops, thus not permitting the magazine frame to be moved. - -If the magazine frames were changed with matrices on the bar, these -matrices would drop in the magazine that was in operating position, -causing wrong fonts in the magazine. - - -DISTRIBUTOR CLUTCH - -The distributor screws are driven by a friction plate, keyed to -the distributor clutch shaft, and held against the face of the -distributor driving pulley by a spring inside of the distributor -clutch flange. This allows the clutch to slip when anything binds the -distributor screws. - -The clutch shaft, operated by the friction plate, drives the -distributor screws by means of small gears which are timed so that -the matrices will hang perpendicular from the distributor bar. - -To remove the distributor clutch, loosen the small screw on the -distributor clutch lever, and remove the clutch rod, spring, and -lever. Remove the hexagon head machine screw that holds the clutch -bracket to the distributor beam. Insert a screw driver between the -bracket and the beam at the upper end and pry the bracket away from -the beam. Lift the bracket off over the end of the shaft. Remove the -screw in the washer on the end of the clutch shaft. Take out the -spring which is behind the washer. The friction plate and pulley can -then be removed over the end of the shaft. - -The friction plate should be kept free from oil at all times. There -is an oil hole in the flange of the pulley which should not be -overlooked when oiling. This hole should be kept stopped with a -counter sunk screw to prevent the oil working out on the drive belt. - - -DISTRIBUTOR STOPPING MECHANISM - -The stopping bar is on the magazine channel entrance, and is operated -by the partitions and a spring hooked on the stopping bar and the -frame of the channel entrance. - -The right side of the small teeth on the stopping bar should touch -each partition (which is flexible). When a matrix fails to enter -the magazine, the channel becomes clogged. This causes the matrices -to bind on the distributor screws which moves the partition to the -right, throwing the stopping bar from the clutch plate. This allows -the clutch lever screw to catch the clutch flange collar, force the -friction plate away from the driving pulley, and stop the distributor. - -The clutch plate is held by two screws to the distributor clutch -lever. - -The stopping bar should rest 1/32 of an inch on the clutch plate. -Adjust by loosening the screws which hold the plate. The holes in the -plate are elongated, to permit the plate being moved sidewise. - -When adjusting be sure that the partitions are straight and touching -the teeth of the stopping bar on the right side. If not, when -straightening, they would cause the stopping bar to rest on the -clutch plate more than it should. This would prevent the clutch -lever and screw going into action instantly, which would cause thin -matrices to bend if caught. - - - - -THE SPIRAL AUTOMATIC - - -The new style distributor screw driving mechanism is termed the -spiral automatic. - -The spiral automatic does away with the channel entrance stopping -bar and flexible entrance partitions. The channel entrances of -the new style are equipped with fixed partitions which can not -become bent, damaged or twisted out of adjustment by the action of -the distributing mechanism. Some of the features are: The channel -entrance partitions are thinner, allowing large matrices to pass -freely through the channels. The partitions are more rigid, although -thinner, because they are fixed and supported their entire length. -The entrance once set, does not have to be readjusted for different -sizes of matrices. - -The partitions have guides at their lower end, which are arranged to -direct the various matrices into their respective channels by having -contact with the lugs instead of the body of the matrix, giving the -minimum amount of friction. - -Two rotary wedges are pinned to the right end of the two front -distributor screw shafts. These wedges are placed so the thin edge -of one wedge is opposite the thick edge of the other. These wedges -rotate with the screws. - -The small timing gear on the lower front distributor screw is loose -on the shaft. A connection between the screw and the gear is made by -two parallel pins, one on the gear and the other on the wedge. These -pins are held together by a spiral spring. The tension of the spring -should be so the slightest drag on the lower screw would allow the -pins to separate. - -When anything binds or retards the revolution of the lower screw, -the two parallel pins separate, which changes the relation of the -wedges, causing them to lock. This locking of the wedges stops the -distributor screws and releases the tension of the clutch flange on -the distributor washer clutch flange permitting the driving pulley to -run free. - -Assembled on the distributor clutch pulley washer clutch flange are -two distributor clutch stops. These are called left-hand stops. -Fastened to the distributor clutch flange are two distributor clutch -stops. These are called right-hand stops. - -When the distributor is operating, the right-hand stops are held on -the left-hand stops by two spiral springs. One end of each spring -is fastened to an adjustable spring collar that slips over the -distributor clutch flange; the other ends are fastened to the pulley -washer clutch flange. These stops force the pulley washer flange -against the driving pulley, operating the distributor. - -The tension of these spiral springs should be just tight enough to -hold the stops together. When the spiral locks, the tension of the -spring should permit the right stops to leave the left, releasing the -pressure on the driving pulley. - -The tension of these springs can be adjusted by releasing the -clamping screw in the spring collar and turning the collar. - -Remember that anything binding the lower screw will prevent the -distributor from operating. - -A matrix not lifting properly, a dry distributor shaft bearing, or -the front rails of the distributor box bearing against the lower -screw will cause the screw to drag and stop. - -If the spiral spring that holds the two pins together is too strong, -matrix ears or lugs will be bent. The spring, when at its proper -tension, should not bind the ears or lugs of the matrices when they -drag the lower screw. - -When having trouble with the spiral automatic, do not change the -spring tension unless you are sure that it is necessary to do so. - -The tension of the two springs, which hold the stops on the clutch -flange and washer flange, should be just strong enough to keep the -stops together. Too much spring tension will have a tendency to bend -matrices or prevent the proper working of the spiral. - -To remove the distributor clutch flange and washer clutch flange on -a machine with the spiral automatic: Loosen the small screw on the -distributor clutch lever, and remove the clutch rod and lever. Remove -the two headless screws in the knurled lever flange on the end of the -clutch flange shaft. Remove the hexagon head machine screw that holds -the clutch bracket to the distributor beam. Insert a screwdriver -between the bracket and the beam at the upper end and pry the -bracket away from the beam. Lift the bracket off over the end of the -shaft. Remove the flat headed screw in the washer on the end of the -clutch flange shaft. Take out the spring which is behind the washer. -Take off the clutch flange shaft, stops and springs, assembled. -Unscrew the clutch pulley washer flange stop screw. The clutch pulley -washer flange can now be removed. - - - - -DISTRIBUTOR BOX - - -After the line has been transferred from the first elevator jaws to -the second elevator bar it is carried by the second elevator lever -to the distributor box. The distributor box contains the upper and -lower rails, tilting rails, matrix lift, font distinguisher, box bar -and point assembled, safety spring, lift cam lever, lift lever, lift -hinge pin, lift lever spring, lift spring, lift cam roll, and matrix -lift adjusting screw. - -When the matrices are transferred from the second elevator bar to the -box bar they are supported at their lower end, by the tilting rails. -These rails release the strain on the matrix combination, and also -prevent matrices falling from the bar if there is any space between -the two bars. - -To assure a good alignment of the two bars, the box bar pin hole at -the left is elongated, allowing play to the bar, which permits the -teeth of the second elevator bar to align easily with the box bar. - -Matrices, coming into the box, hang to the rails on the box bar by -their teeth until they reach the vertical face of the box rails. -There are two upper and two lower rails held to the box plates (front -and back) by dowel pins and screws, so that the matrix will align -perfectly with all four rails and the bar point at the right end of -the box. - -The rails must align the matrix to clear the distributor screws and -the aligning plate on the combination bar without binding. The matrix -must also pass between the vertical face of the rails and the bar -point. If these rails become worn, they will permit more than one -thin matrix to pass the bar point, or will not lift the matrix so -it will clear the screws properly, because of the unevenness of the -vertical face of the rails. This will bend the ears of the matrix -and stop the distributor. - -The only remedy for worn rails is to apply new ones. Four new rails -must be applied, as the vertical faces of all the four rails wear, -and this is the only method of obtaining the proper alignment again. - -A safety spring is pinned in a grooved part of the upper front rail -at the right end to prevent matrices turning and getting caught by -the lift when the shifter is suddenly withdrawn. It is only the -matrix ready to be lifted that need be held by the spring. - -As the matrices are lifted by the matrix lift they must pass between -the vertical face on the rails and the bar point. All matrices -are the same thickness where they pass this point. There is just -sufficient space between the rails and the bar point for but one -thin matrix to pass when lifted by the matrix lift. If the bar point -becomes worn or broken it will permit more than one thin matrix to be -lifted to the distributor screws, resulting in the clogging of the -channel entrance or bending the matrix. - -When the bar point becomes worn a new one should be applied. A new -bar point can be applied by removing the bar, and, with a small nail -set, driving out the two pins that hold the bar point. Put the new -point in its proper position, place the bar in the box, and test with -a thin matrix by raising the lift. The matrix should pass the point -without binding. When the point is set properly, remove the bar from -the box and drill two holes for the pins. Sometimes the bar point can -be drawn out a little by peening it with a small machinist hammer. -However, extreme care must be used, so the bar rails will not be -damaged by the hammer. Just a few light taps of the hammer should be -sufficient. - -The font distinguisher is placed in the lower right end of the -box, between the two lower rails. All the matrices must pass this -distinguisher. When properly adjusted, it will stop all matrices of -a different font size to the one being used, or one of the same font -turned backwards. To change font distinguisher, turn the stud one -complete turn for each size. Turn the stud to the left for a smaller -size and to the right for a larger size. - -On the multiple magazine machines the font distinguisher is -automatically changed when changing the position of the magazines. - -Matrices must never be driven over the point of the distinguisher -when they stop in the box, but should be pushed to the second -elevator bar and the wrong font or the turned matrix removed. Driving -a matrix over the font distinguisher not only damages the matrix, -but it also often breaks the font distinguisher and causes serious -damage to the box by throwing the various parts out of their proper -alignment. When this happens it is almost impossible to get the box -back into proper shape. - -The matrix lift mechanism is composed of the matrix lift lever, -the matrix lift cam lever, matrix lift spring, matrix lift cushion -spring, matrix lift hinge pin, matrix lift cam roll, and the matrix -lift. - -This matrix lift is at the right end of the box and is held to -the lift lever by a fulcrum screw and forced against the font -distinguisher block by a small coil spring. The lift should set so -the back of the shoulder aligns with the vertical face of the rails. -If by any accident it is forced out of alignment to the left, the -lift cannot engage the bottom of the matrices and lift them over the -vertical face of the rails. - -The shoulder and seat of the lift should be kept free from gum or -dirt so the matrices will not slip off while being raised. When the -shoulder and seat of the lift wear so that it will lift two thin -matrices or lift them crooked, the lift must be replaced by a new one. - -The cam lever and lift lever are connected by a cushion spring which -absorbs the movement of the cam lever, if the lever hangs up. There -is an adjusting screw in the matrix lift lever which permits the lift -lever to be raised or lowered. - -The matrix lift must raise the lugs of the matrices clear of the -vertical face of the box rails. If it does not do this, thin -matrices, when being moved by the distributor screws, would be forced -against the screws and become damaged. To adjust the lift, turn the -distributor screws by hand until the cam roller is at the low part -of the cam, place a thin matrix in the distributor box against the -vertical face of the rails, then adjust screw until the shoulder of -the lift is not more than 1/64 of an inch under the bottom of the -matrix. The lift then should raise the matrix 1/32 of an inch above -the top rails in the distributor box when the cam roller is at the -highest part of the cam. After adjusting the lift, be sure that the -adjusting screw locknut is tight. - -The buffer of the distributor shifter should come in the box almost -to the distributor lift, but should never come in far enough to -engage the lift. The distance the shifter can travel into the box -is regulated by a stop screw which sets in the shifter slideway. -However, this screw sometimes gets broken off, comes out, or is worn -off. This would allow the shifter buffer to engage the lift and cause -undue wear. - - -LOWER DISTRIBUTOR BOX - -For Models 2 and 4 - -On the upper distributor of a Model 2 or 4 the matrices are raised -over the rails by the matrix lift, the same as on any other model. -The upper portion of the inclined rails, however, are cut away. There -is a bridge on the upper distributor box on which the matrices for -the upper magazine ride until they catch on the distributor bar. -The matrices for the lower magazines have a slot in the bottom so -that they will not ride on the bridge. They fall from the upper box, -through a chute, into the lower box, where they are separated and -delivered to the lower distributor rail. - -Care should be taken to see that the box escapements (or matrix lift) -work freely at all times. If dirt is allowed to accumulate, the -escapements will not work freely; the matrices will be prevented from -separating and cause them to clog in the box. - -To adjust the escapement pawls (or matrix lift) in a lower box, turn -the screws until the matrix lift lever cam roll rides in the lower -part of the cam. Adjust with the adjusting screw until the point of -the male pawl clears the bottom of the slot in the matrix about 1/64 -of an inch. See that the male pawl does not become bent; this point -should admit a thin matrix only between both pawls. The female pawl -must have a retaining hold on the matrix of at least 1/32 of an inch -when the male pawl is adjusted to clear the bottom of the slot. - - -DISTRIBUTOR BOX MATRIX LIFT CAM - -This cam is fastened to the distributor back screw by means of a -taper pin. There is no adjustment of the cam. It should not be -detached unless badly worn, and then it should be replaced by a new -one. - -To apply a new cam: Drive out taper pin and slip cam off the shaft, -placing a new one on the shaft in such a position that the holes -in the cam will match with the hole in the shaft. Use an 8 x 32 -headless screw to hold the cam in position. Put a thick matrix with -a full size lug in the box in the regular way. See that the lift is -adjusted to raise the matrix 1/32 of an inch above the upper rails. -Then turn the distributor screws by hand, and when the matrix starts -to raise and enter the screws, the side of the matrix opposite the -distributor shifter should clear the threads on the distributor -screws 1/32 of an inch. If the matrix does not clear the threads 1/32 -of an inch, loosen the small screw in the cam, turn the cam so that -when the matrix lift starts to raise the matrix it will clear the -threads properly. Fasten the cam securely with the screw, and then -run through a few lines to make sure that the cam is set right. Then -drill a hole in the shaft and fasten with a pin. - -Before applying a new matrix lift cam, make sure that the upper and -lower rails in the box are not worn; if worn, renew the rails before -applying the new cam. It is seldom necessary to replace a lift cam, -due to the small amount of wear the cam undergoes. - - -DISTRIBUTOR TROUBLES - -Considerable annoyance and lost time is caused by distributor -troubles. Some of the most frequent troubles may be traced to the -following: - -The lifting of two thin matrices to the distributor is caused by -having too much space between the end of the bar point and the -vertical face of the rails, due to worn rails or bar point, or both. - -Bent matrices are caused by the rails being worn, worn bar point, -matrix lift out of adjustment, worn lift cam, safety spring broken -or not functioning, conveyer screws out of time. - -Matrices may drop in the wrong channel of the magazine if the -flexible guides become bent. If the lugs of the matrices are thicker -than those regularly running in that channel, the matrices will clog -in the entrance and stop the distributor. - -The back conveyer screw, being set too far from the front screws, -will cause the matrices to fall in the wrong channel or twist as -they leave the distributor box rails. Adjust the screw with the two -adjusting screws at each end of the conveyer screw bearing. - -A floor that is uneven or shaky will cause the matrices to drop in -the wrong channel. - -Matrices will drop on top of the partitions or in the wrong channel -if the distributor beam is out of adjustment. Adjust with the screw -that is fastened to the beam at the front and banks against the right -side of the yoke. - -Matrices with damaged or worn distributing teeth or combinations will -drop in the wrong channel. - -The matrix combinations, a very important part of the matrix, is -sufficient under ordinary conditions to last for years. It is -possible, however, to ruin a set of combinations in a very short -time. The causes are almost always due to bad alignment at one or -possibly all of the various transfers. The matrices are transferred -at three distinct points, where the combinations are involved. - -The first transfer is from the first elevator jaws onto the second -elevator bar at the intermediate transfer channel. The line of -matrices, when in position at this transfer point, should line up -with the bar so they will have a perfect transfer to the bar without -binding. Use the set screw at the bottom of the first elevator slide -on the right hand side to raise or lower the slide for the proper -alignment. This alignment should be as nearly perfect as possible. -If the second elevator bracket and bar do not seat properly on the -intermediate channel rails, or if these rails are out of true or -worn, the trouble should be remedied so the bar will align properly -for the transfer. The bar should be perfectly smooth and free from -burrs, and should be held tight against the bracket plate by the two -flat head screws that extend through the plate. - -The second transfer is from the second elevator bar to the -distributor box bar. The second elevator, when in its normal -position, should be adjusted so the second elevator bar will line -up with the distributor box bar. The distributor box bar should be -perfectly smooth and free from burrs. - -The third transfer is from the distributor box rails to the -combination bar. The distributor box rails should be perfectly -square with each other. The matrices should transfer freely from the -distributor box rails to the combination rails on the bar. There must -be perfect alignment at all of these points of transfer, or undue -wear on the matrix combinations will result. - -Matrices with damaged combination teeth, or with small burrs on the -teeth, will not drop squarely between the flexible guides or will -wobble as they leave the bar, and cause distributor stops. This -trouble can usually be remedied by dressing the burrs off the teeth -with a fine file. Be very careful not to dress the teeth below the -plane of the surface of the matrices. Also make sure that there are -no burrs on the combinations where the teeth are supposed to be cut -away. - -The distributor screws must be kept clean and free from oil at all -times, or the dirt and oil will be transferred onto the matrices and -into the magazine. - -Battered ears or lugs on the matrices will cause distributor stops. -The ears of the offending matrices should be examined, and if it is -found they are battered out of shape or increased in thickness, they -should be carefully dressed down with a very fine file or a matrix -file gauge to their original thickness. Care should be taken to see -that the edges or sides of the matrix bodies are not altered. When -the ears of the matrices become bent they can be straightened by -laying the bent matrix on a perfectly flat surface and with a pair -of smooth jawed pliers straighten the matrix so it will lie flat on -the surface without rocking. If it becomes necessary to straighten -a matrix with a hammer care should be used to use a very light one. -The shape of the matrix can be changed very easily when pounded, and -the matrix can not align properly with the other matrices. - - -TO REMOVE A DISTRIBUTOR BOX - -Back the machine until the second elevator descends from its seat. -Pull down on the magazine channel entrance. (If the box is equipped -with the automatic font distinguisher, press in on the stud until the -distinguisher is resting against the lower front rail of the box and -turn the stud to right a quarter of a turn.) Press downward on the -handle of the screw which holds the box in position and unscrew until -it stops. Pull downward on the box. - -Care must be used in replacing the box to seat as high as it will go -and have the washer on the screw so that it clamps the box bracket to -the distributor beam. Turn upward on the handle of the screw. - -The new distributor box bracket is provided with pins that fit in a -groove in the distributor beam to prevent the box being placed in any -other than the correct position. - - - - -FIRST ELEVATOR JAWS AND SLIDE - - -The first elevator slide is held in place by four gibs on the vise -frame so that the jaws will stand parallel with the mold. The gibs -are also used for adjusting the first elevator jaws so they will -just clear the delivery and the intermediate channels. The slide is -operated by cam No. 1, through the first elevator and the auxiliary -levers and connecting link. - -The first elevator jaws are attached to the top of the first elevator -slide. They carry the line of matrices to the casting position and -then to the second elevator. When the matrices have entered the -first elevator jaws they are in position with their face toward the -mold. The elevator slide travels down to the vise, the mold advances -and the lower lugs of the matrices enter the groove of the mold, -the elevator raises for alignment and lifts the line up against the -aligning groove, or mold keeper, of the mold for casting. - -As the first elevator jaws descend to the vise cap, the center screw -in the top of the first elevator slide strikes on the vise cap and -regulates the distance from the lugs of the matrices to the aligning -groove in the mold when the mold slide advances. - -There should be 1/64 of an inch space between the bottom of the -center screw and vise cap when first elevator is lifted for -alignment. If the center screw is not properly adjusted, when the -mold advances the lower lugs on the matrices would be sheared. An -entire font of matrices might be ruined in a very short time in this -manner. - -To test this adjustment, place a good matrix in the first elevator -jaws, turn the machine until the adjusting screw is resting on the -vise cap, disconnect the mold slide and bring the mold disk forward -so the lug of the matrix enters the groove in the mold. Raise the -elevator slide with the left hand, which raises the lug of the -matrix against the aligning groove in the mold. At this point there -should be 1/64 of an inch between the end of the center screw and -the vise cap. If not, turn the screw with the right hand until it is -resting on the vise cap. Then turn the screw to the left until it is -approximately 1/64 of an inch from the vise cap. - -On the older model machines this adjusting screw is ⅜ of an inch in -diameter and has 16 threads to the inch. By turning the screw to the -left one-quarter of a revolution, it allows the 1/64-inch adjustment. -On all new machines the adjusting screw is ½ inch in diameter and has -12 threads to the inch. Turning the screw one-fifth of a revolution -allows the 1/64-inch adjustment. - -As the mold disk moves forward the elevator jaws raise for alignment, -the lower lugs of the matrices being raised against the aligning -groove in the mold. The locking stud blocks receive the mold disk -locking studs so that the mold sets parallel with the side of the -vise. The elevator should be adjusted so that the jaws will be -parallel with the mold. - -If the jaws are not parallel with the mold the face alignment on the -slug will not be straight. - -The method of testing this adjustment is made by setting the vise -jaws to 30 picas, placing a good matrix in each end of the first -elevator jaws. Let the first elevator jaws down on the vise cap. -Disconnect the mold slide; bring the mold slide forward by hand. Be -sure it comes over the lugs of the matrices without binding, as -the matrices must be free. To test the alignment, raise the first -elevator by hand, thus raising the lugs of the matrices up against -the aligning groove in the mold. If the matrix on the right-hand side -is found to be tight, and the one on the left-hand side is found to -be loose, this proves that the first elevator jaws are not parallel -with the mold. The four gibs act as a guide for the elevator slide. -If the matrix on the left-hand side is loose, the two top gibs should -be moved to the right, and the two bottom gibs moved to the left. - -In taking down or erecting a machine, do not disturb the two gibs on -the right-hand side. Leave them for a guide to adjust the other two -gibs. On machines that have the inclined galley it is necessary to -remove the right-hand gib to remove the galley bracket, but as it is -doweled, it is impossible to get it back into the wrong position. - -The elevator jaw must be adjusted so as to clear the intermediate and -delivery channels without binding. If it is too far away, move all -four gibs exactly the same distance. - -The first elevator jaws should align with the second elevator bar -when the first elevator is at its full up-stroke, so that the -matrices will pass freely from the first to the second elevator. -When the first elevator goes to the slide guide, the square head -adjusting screw on the bottom of the slide comes in contact with the -vise frame, regulates the height to which the elevator raises, the -screw holding the slide, and the spring in the connecting link being -compressed to take up the extra movement of the elevator lever. - -Unless the matrices transfer freely from the first elevator jaws to -the second elevator bar, the combinations would soon become damaged, -causing poor distribution. - -Test by transferring a line from the jaws to the bar by hand. If the -line of matrices moves onto the bar without dragging, the adjustment -need not be disturbed. - -Whenever it is necessary to make this adjustment, place the machine -in transfer position, place a matrix that has all the combinations, -in the first elevator jaws against the spring pawls; place a piece of -white paper in the spaceband box, at the end of the spaceband lever -pawl; lay an electric light on the transfer channel; close one eye, -looking through the first elevator from the left end with the other; -adjust with the screw on the bottom of the first elevator slide, at -the right side, so the combinations on the matrix align with grooves -on the second elevator bar. The final test for this adjustment, is -to transfer the line as above stated. The line must transfer without -dragging. Use the adjusting screw until this is accomplished. - -Before making the adjustment be sure the first elevator jaws are not -loose on the slide, that the left end of the second elevator bar is -not battered, that the second elevator plate is not loose, or worn, -that the second elevator is adjusted properly, that there is no dirt -or gum holding the second elevator from seating, that there is no -metal on top of the adjusting screw, that the screw which holds the -first elevator slide stop is not loose. See that the transfer slide -finger is not bent. - - -FIRST ELEVATOR JAWS - -The first elevator jaws consist of the front and back jaws, the jaw -spring pawls, duplex rail, duplex rail levers and springs, separating -block, and line stop. - -The two jaws are held together by two screws extending through the -separating block. On the right-hand end of the jaws are the spring -pawls. The pawl for the back jaw is held in a slot by two small -screws and projects through to the front. The front jaw pawl is -grooved and held in place by two screws and a plate, and projects -through to the back. These two pawls retain the matrices after they -have entered the jaws. Should they break or become inoperative, the -matrices would have a tendency to jump out of the jaws just before -entering the vise jaws or while going to transfer position in the -top guide. A broken pawl sometimes will catch the line of matrices -and prevent it from passing into the jaws. To renew the front pawl, -release the two small screws that hold the plate and slip the pawl -toward the right. The back pawl can be changed by taking out the two -small screws that hold it in position. - -The first elevator front jaw is equipped with a duplex rail for -the purpose of holding the front lugs of the matrices in a raised -position to cast a line of matrices in auxiliary position. This -rail is held in position by two springs which are fastened to the -two duplex rail levers. The rail is automatically retracted when the -elevator rises to the slide guide, by the upper ends of the rail -levers being pressed back by two operating blocks which are assembled -on the adjusting strip of the slide guide. This backward movement -of the rail permits the matrices to drop to normal position for the -transfer. - -If a squirt occurs and the metal gets in around the duplex rails -or on the first elevator jaws, it will prevent the rail from being -retracted. This will prevent the elevator slide from going high -enough for the matrices to be transferred. Never remove metal from -the jaws with a screwdriver or a piece of steel. A piece of brass -rule will answer the purpose and will not damage the jaws when -driving out the metal. - -The duplex rail sometimes becomes battered or bent through the -carelessness of the operator in sending in tight lines. The rail can -be taken out and smoothed up by taking the jaws off the slide and -removing the plate at the bottom of the front jaw. - -The back jaw should be examined frequently for burrs or a sprung jaw. -If the jaw becomes sprung outward it will permit the end matrix to -crawl up in the jaws and the lugs will be sheared or bent as the mold -slide comes forward for the lockup. There should be just enough space -between the jaws for a matrix to pass in without binding, but not -enough to allow the matrix to be raised past the duplex rail, from -lower to auxiliary position. If the jaw is bent inward, the spaceband -can not operate freely. Never pry out on the jaws with a screw driver -when there is a squirt holding the jaws to the disc of the mold cap, -for there is a chance of bending the back jaw. - -Whenever the jaws are held on the vise cap after a squirt, always -remove the screws from the back jaws, take off the jaw guard on the -vise cap and let the vise down. This method will prevent springing -the jaw because the back jaw will hang to the squirt when the vise is -let down. - - -FIRST ELEVATOR JAW LINE STOP - -The first elevator jaw line stop, which prevents the matrices from -twisting or falling out while the line is being carried to the vise -or the top guide, is found in the first elevator jaw, and is held by -a clamp, spring, and nut. - -The outer end of the line stop is cut away so as to clear the vise -jaw, on all models except 1 and K. Always have the cut on the under -side; if reversed it would strike on the vise jaw and not allow the -first elevator to descend the full distance. - -The inner end of the line stop should set against the first matrix on -the left end of the line after the line has been justified. Do not -set the clamp lock-nut tight or it will not allow the line stop to -move when changing to a longer measure. - - - - -FIRST ELEVATOR SLIDE CONNECTING LINK - - -The first elevator slide connecting link is the connection between -the first elevator slide and the first elevator lever, and is -fastened to the slide by a pin extending through an eyebolt and to -the first elevator lever by a wing pin extending through an eyebolt. - -The first elevator jaws should not be more than 1/64 of an inch lower -than the grooves in the delivery channel. Make this adjustment by -turning the connecting link casing. - -The connecting link is constructed of a casing or tube, inside of -which is a compression spring. This spring is held in place at the -bottom by a movable nut inside of the lower end of the casing, and by -a screw cap at the top of the casing. The movable nut has a slot on -one side which fits over a pin in the casing. This prevents the nut -from turning except when the casing is turned. The casing also has -a screw cap on the lower end, through which an eyebolt passes. The -lower eyebolt screws into the movable nut inside the casing, against -which the spring rests. At the top of the casing is another eyebolt -which screws into the top screw cap. - -The upper eyebolt is ¾ of an inch from the inner edge of the hole to -the shoulder of the upper cap, and the lower eyebolt 13/16 of an -inch from the inner edge of the hole to the shoulder of the bushing -when applied to the machine, making 8½ inches from center to center -of the holes in the eyebolts. The lower eyebolt is 1/16 of an inch -longer than the upper eyebolt. As the upper eyebolt has a left-hand -thread and the lower eyebolt a right-hand thread, the lower eyebolt -still remains 1/16 of an inch longer than the upper eyebolt, and -still retains the same compression on the spring when it becomes -necessary to turn the connecting link a trifle to raise or lower the -elevator. - -The alignment of the matrices takes place as the elevator raises the -lugs of the matrices up against the aligning groove of the mold. By -the lower eyebolt passing through the clearance hole in the screw -cap when the alignment takes place, the lower nut is lifted against -the spring inside the casing and the spring compresses just enough -to align the lugs of the matrices in the groove of the mold. This -holds the line against the mold by spring tension. If the connecting -link was a solid piece, when the line was raised to the mold it would -lock so tight that in a short time the lugs would be worn, causing a -bad alignment of the matrices. The object of the spring inside the -casing is to prevent this wear. Having the lower eyebolt 1/16 of an -inch longer than the upper, the correct compression of the spring is -given. The elevator, when it raises from the vise for alignment with -no matrices, is raised nearly ⅓ of an inch. Notice the difference -with a line of matrices in the elevator. It is held at the mold by -the lugs of the matrices, the compression spring in the link taking -up the extra motion of the first elevator lever. - - -AUXILIARY LEVER - -The distance from center to center of the holes should measure -8½ inches when the link has been properly adjusted. If the first -elevator jaws do not come within 1/64 of an inch of aligning with -delivery slide channel after the connecting link has been adjusted -and applied to the machine, adjust the slide with the auxiliary -lever. This is necessary to compensate for wear on the face of cam -No. 1 and the auxiliary lever roller. By loosening the connecting -screw in the side of the auxiliary lever, make the adjustment by -turning the adjusting screw in the front side of the auxiliary lever. -Never try to make this adjustment with the connecting screw tight, as -the lug of the auxiliary lever is liable to be broken. - - - - -THE SECOND ELEVATOR - - -The second elevator consists of two levers, connected by a bolt and -cushion spring. The short lever carries a roller which operates on -cam No. 6. The short lever operates the long lever, to carry the -matrices from the first elevator to the distributor box. On the outer -end of the second elevator lever is the bar plate and second elevator -bar. The matrices are held on this bar by their combination teeth. On -the right-hand end of the second elevator bar plate is a stop pawl. -The stop pawl prevents the matrices being pushed too far to the right -during the transfer from the first elevator to the second elevator, -and keeps the matrices from striking the distributor box bar when the -second elevator is being raised to its upper position. - -When the elevator is at transfer point, the roller should be free -of the cam. Adjust by the nut on the connecting bolt which connects -the two levers. This is to assure the elevator seating in its proper -position on the transfer channel to receive the line of matrices from -the first elevator. The machine should be in normal position, the -automatic stopping pawl resting on the upper stopping lever, when -making this adjustment. With the machine in normal position, adjust -so the connecting bolt is free to turn, with no end play between -the head of the bolt and the adjusting nut. When this adjustment is -properly made, and the machine is turned to transfer position, the -roller will be free of the cam. When in normal position the second -elevator bar will align with the bar of the distributor box. Unless -the connecting bolt is free to turn when the machine is in normal -position, the second elevator will not be properly seated in the -distributor shifter guide, and the second elevator and distributor -box bars will not align. - - -SECOND ELEVATOR STARTING SPRING - -Located just inside the machine frame, near cam No. 2, and connected -to the short lever of the second elevator, is the second elevator -starting spring and rod. When the second elevator is at transfer -point the adjusting nut should touch the spring. The spring is to -start the elevator down and prevent sticking at the distributor. - -The most tension is on the spring when the machine is at normal -position and as the cam revolves, the second elevator cam lever will -get its proper movement when going to transfer position. The spring -also causes a steady movement of the second elevator lever when going -from transfer to normal position. This adjustment has become obsolete -on the new machines. - - -SECOND ELEVATOR SAFETY CATCH - -On the end of the second elevator lever, near cam No. 10, either -beneath or at the back side of the shaft, is a projection for the -purpose of preventing the elevator from falling and being damaged -should anything catch or hold the lever momentarily from following -the cam. This projection engages with a safety pawl on the machine -frame. This pawl must be released before the lever roller can rest on -the cam. When the elevator descends at its regular time, the safety -catch is held open by a raised piece on the surface of cam No. 10. - - - - -MAIN CAMS - - -The main cams control the movements of the various levers of the -machine and their operations are dependent on these cams. - -The assembling and distributing mechanisms alone are independent of -the main cams. - -Standing at the rear of the machine and counting from the right, the -cams have the following action: Cam No. 1 is the first elevator cam. -This cam operates the first elevator slide, through the auxiliary and -first elevator levers, by means of a connection made by a connecting -link. This cam lowers the first elevator slide and jaws with the -matrix line to the mold and then lifts it to the intermediate -channel for the transfer to the second elevator bar. The elevator has -five changes of position in the casting of the line. - -The second is the distributor shifter cam. This cam is inside the -frame of the machine, under cam No. 3, and to which it is fastened -with two dowel pins and a screw. This cam operates the distributor -shifter for transferring the matrices from the second elevator bar to -the distributor box and forcing the matrix line against the matrix -lift. This action is produced by a rider assembled in the distributor -shifter hub which is fastened by a shaft to the mold gear arm. The -rider is brought up against the face of this cam by a coil spring -which is fastened to the lower end of the hub and to the frame of the -machine. Assembled with the rider in the hub is a cushion spring that -takes care of any undue strain that might occur in the action of the -cams. - -The third is the mold turning cam. The two gear segments attached to -this cam impart rotation to the mold turning pinion which in turn -revolves the mold disk. The short segment engages the pinion and -turns the disk one-quarter revolution, bringing the mold in position -to receive the line of matrices. The long segment in turn brings the -disk and mold to ejecting position, completing the revolution of the -cams. - -The fourth (a part of cam No. 3) is the vise closing and second -justification cam. The lever, directly under this cam, has a roller -that follows the contour of the cam. A heavy coil spring beneath the -lever presses the roller against the cam. The lever is forked at the -front end and actuates the vise closing mechanism, and also acts with -the justification lever in making the second justification. - -The fifth is the justification lever cam. The lever directly under -this cam has a roller that follows the contour of the cam. The heavy -coil spring beneath the lever presses the roller against the contour -of this cam, justifying the line of matrices by forcing the spacing -mechanism against the spacebands. This lever in its downward motion -operates the slug lever. - -The sixth (a part of cam No. 5) is the second elevator cam, which -operates the second elevator arm by means of a roller following the -contour of this cam. This arm, to which the lever is fastened, lowers -the second elevator to receive the line of matrices at the transfer -position and then raises them to the distributor box. - -The seventh is the pot pump cam and operates the pump lever. There -is a roller on this lever resting against the face of the cam. This -lever forces the metal into the mold cell as the cam revolves to -the low portion. The lever is forced down by a strong spring. The -new style pot pump lever is connected to its shaft and has a lever -extending into the column. It is pulled downward by a stiff coil -spring. - -The eighth is the pot cam, which acts on the pot lever, forcing the -mouth of the pot forward against the mold. There are two shoes on -this cam. The first or short shoe is to cause the face alignment; the -second or long shoe is to lock the pot firmly against the mold before -the slug is cast. A roller is carried in the pot lever and follows -the contour of this cam and is the medium through which the above -lockup is accomplished. - -The ninth is the mold slide cam and driving gear. The right side of -this gear is channeled out, and carries the mold slide lever roller -which operates the mold slide to advance the mold disk to a position -in which the lugs of the matrices are held in the groove of the mold -for alignment. It also returns the mold disk after the line has been -cast, advances it again to ejecting position, and returns it after -the slug is ejected. This gear also carries the pot return cam, which -withdraws the pot from the mold after the cast. It also carries the -ejector cam which engages the pawl on the ejector lever and moves it -forward, ejecting the slug from the mold. - -The tenth cam operates the delivery slide and transfer cam roller -arms and causes these two parts to return to normal position after -their respective movements. The delivery slide cam roller rotates on -the outer surface, while the transfer slide cam roller acts on the -inner surface. This cam also retracts the ejector lever after the -slug has been ejected. The automatic safety and stopping pawls are -attached to this cam. They are operated by the transfer slide and the -delivery slide rollers. This cam really consists of two parts in -one, the outer cam controlling the return of the delivery slide and -the inner one controlling the return of the transfer slide lever. - -The cams are all fastened together by four long bolts extending from -cam No. 2 and ending at cam No. 9. They are all keyed to the main -shaft and held in place by a set screw under cam No. 7. The cams can -be shifted a little sidewise but should set against a collar on the -left side of the main shaft under cam No. 2. Cam No. 10 is held in -place by a key on the shaft and a set nut and is kept from working -toward the left by a locating piece fastened to the main shaft. - -The cams should be kept clean to prevent undue wear. Under ordinary -conditions, the cams should be cleaned once each week. This may be -accomplished by locking the controlling lever out so the cams will -continue to rotate. Then hold a rag against the surface of the cam. -A small amount of a mixture of gasoline and kerosene on the rag will -help to cut all dirt and grit loose from the cams, and leave the -surface in good condition and reduce the wear. Cams allowed to run -without being cleaned will wear very rapidly and soon cause much -trouble and expense. - - - - -FIRST ELEVATOR SLIDE GUIDE - - -The first elevator slide guide contains the intermediate bar and pawl -(assembled), adjusting screws for the same, first elevator jaw duplex -rail operating blocks, and the elevator transfer slide releasing -lever. - -The height of the intermediate bar and pawl is adjusted by the -two small screws that pass through the top and touch the bar. The -purpose of the bar and pawl is to push down any spacebands that may -not have dropped to normal position as the line is carried from -casting position to the transfer. If the pawl was set too high, the -spacebands would strike the second elevator bar, and wear the lower -rail. - -The bar should be set so that when the second elevator is seated -at transfer position, the pawl, when raised to its highest point, -will be in line with the bottom of the second elevator bar. This -adjustment is made with the two screws that pass through the slide -guide and touch the intermediate bar. - -It is also necessary for both ends of the intermediate bar to be the -same height. After adjusting the pawl, turn the machine until the -transfer slide finger has entered the channel; lay a six-inch scale -flat on the first elevator jaws in line with the bar, but clearing -the pawl. Raise the first elevator slide by hand until the scale -touches the bar. Adjust the bar horizontal with the scale by the same -two screws that pass through top of the slide guide. - - -DUPLEX RAIL OPERATING BLOCKS - -The first elevator jaw duplex rail operating blocks are fastened to -the slide guide adjusting strip and have a limited adjustment, but -when they are worn so they will not operate the rail properly, they -should be renewed. - - -RELEASING LEVER - -The releasing lever is for the purpose of preventing the transfer of -a line in case the second elevator does not descend or seat properly. -The adjusting screw in the side of the second elevator lever should -raise the left end of the releasing lever 1/32 of an inch above the -block on the transfer slide when the second elevator is seated in -transfer position. - - - - -TRANSFER SLIDE - - -The transfer slide gets its motion from the transfer lever to which -it is connected by means of a link. - -The transfer lever gets its action from the split transfer cam lever -and roller, which are held against cam No. 10 by a spring in the -column. - -The slide should be adjusted to allow 5-9/16 inches from the -intermediate channel to slide finger. (Allow one inch more on 36-em -machines). This adjustment should be made with the machine in normal -position. Loosen the two screws on the split lever, move the slide -finger 5-9/16 inches from the channel, and hold; then move the -roller against the cam and tighten the screws. This adjustment is -necessary so that a 30-em line, which measures 5 inches, will clear -the transfer slide finger 5/32 of an inch. The last matrix is carried -13/32 of an inch inside the first elevator jaws. There will be a -clearance of 5/32 of an inch from the first matrix and the transfer -slide finger when the machine is in transfer position. Be sure the -transfer finger is not bent when measuring this distance. - -The cut in the slide finger should be flush with the left end of -the second elevator bar plate, when it has transferred the line to -the second elevator. This adjustment is made by the screw in the -automatic safety pawl, which comes in contact with the buffer, on cam -No. 10. - -With the machine in transfer position, the cam lever roller is -against the buffer in cam No. 10. The adjusting screw in the -automatic safety pawl, being against the inner end of buffer, -regulates the distance between the cut in the finger and second -elevator bar plate. This adjustment, when properly made, insures the -line being moved from the first to the second elevator. Turning the -adjusting screw to the right increases the distance between the slide -finger and the bar plate. Turning to the left decreases it. - -The horizontal screw in the transfer slide should bank against the -buffer in the spaceband lever to allow ⅛ of an inch between the cut -in the slide finger and the spaceband lever pawl when the slide -finger and spaceband lever pawl are at their closest point during -transfer. - -After the line has been transferred to the second elevator the -spacebands, not having combinations, remain in the transfer channels -and must be moved under the spaceband lever pawl so they can be -returned to spaceband box. When the transfer cam lever roller is at -the lowest part of cam No. 10, the adjusting screw in transfer slide, -coming in contact with the buffer in the spaceband lever, regulates -the distance between the cut in the slide finger and the bottom of -the slot in the spaceband lever pawl. - - - - -SPACEBAND LEVER - - -The spaceband lever gets its motion from the transfer lever, through -a turnbuckle which connects the transfer lever and the spaceband -lever. The purpose of this form of coupling, so threaded that when -connecting the two levers it may be turned to regulate the length -of the connected parts, is to adjust the spaceband lever so the -spaceband lever pawl will pass the highest point of the spaceband -box rails, properly bringing the spacebands into the box. - -Before making the spaceband lever adjustment, make sure that the -transfer slide finger is properly adjusted. Then place the machine in -normal position. - -Adjust the turnbuckle so the hook of the pawl passes to the right of -the highest point of the spaceband box rails not more than 1/16 of an -inch. If there is too much space between the end of the pawl and the -latch on the spaceband box, which is used as a lock, when recasting -30 ems the slide finger would move to the right against the line and -force the matrix from the inner end of the first elevator before the -pawl would come in contact with the latch. If the slide adjustments -are properly made, the turning of the turnbuckle will have no effect -in the adjustment of the slide finger. - - -SPACEBAND LEVER PAWL - -The spaceband pawl is fastened to the spaceband lever by a pivot pin -and held in place by a bushing, which fits over the pin. The screw -which clamps the bushing to the pin extends downward through the top -of the lever. The pawl pulls the spacebands back into the box after -the transfer. The pawl should ride freely in the transfer channel, -its bearing being a pin screwed into the back side of the pawl. This -pin rides on the top of the transfer channel. The sidewise adjustment -of the pawl is made by loosening the screw in the top of the transfer -lever and allowing the machine to turn over for a few lines, the -pawl thus seating itself. The spaceband pawl is held down on the -transfer channel by a small spring. The tension of this spring should -be strong enough to hold the spacebands from slipping from under the -pawl. - - - - -MOLD SLIDE - - -The mold slide, which carries the mold disk and molds, moves in a -slideway at the right of the metal pot and gets its action from cam -No. 9, and the mold cam lever on which are assembled two rollers. -One roller is fastened to the lever by a screw and a washer, and is -seated in a depression in the rear end of the mold slide connecting -the mold slide with cam No. 9. The other roller has as its bearing -an adjustable eccentric pin fastened to the mold cam lever, and -follows the contour of the cam in the right side of cam No. 9. - -When a line of matrices is in position in front of the mold, the -mold slide advances so that the lugs of the matrices will enter -the aligning grooves of the mold. This position is held until the -spacebands are driven up for justification and the line is raised -for alignment. The slide then comes forward a second time for final -lockup just as the metal pot locks against the back of the mold. - -When the mold slide comes forward the first time there should be .010 -of an inch space between the mold and the vise jaws or the line. This -space between the mold and the jaws is regulated by the eccentric pin -in the mold cam lever roller, and allows the proper justification and -alignment of the matrices before the final lockup. - -During the alignment and during the first justification, the matrices -must be perfectly free, so that they may readjust themselves sidewise -in the line. Hence the importance of preventing the mold from -pressing forward against the matrices and spacebands at its first -movement. - -If the slide advances too far forward the aligning groove of the -mold would engage the lugs of the matrices before the first elevator -jaws were seated properly on the vise cap, shearing the lugs of the -matrices. Or if the mold was forced to lockup tight against the line, -it would prevent justifying properly, causing hair lines to show -between the matrices or a squirt on the left-hand end. If there is -too much space between the mold and the jaws, when the first elevator -raises for alignment, the lugs of the matrices not being in the -aligning groove, would permit the line of matrices to raise to the -upper aligning groove of the mold, causing the line of matrices to -be cast on the raised position; or if the aligning groove did not -advance close to hold the lugs, there would be a small squirt. - -The .010 of an inch adjustment also affects the lockup of the slide -at ejecting position. If there is a trifle more space between the -mold and the line than .010 of an inch, the mold will not seat -against the banking blocks at ejecting point. This will sometimes -allow the slug to twist slightly, causing it to be trimmed crooked. - -To test this adjustment: Turn the casting mechanism until the first -elevator jaws are resting on the vise cap; place a pig of metal under -the head of the slide and on top of the vise automatic stop rod; -fold a piece of newspaper three thicknesses, or proof paper until it -measures about .010 of an inch; close the vise jaws; place the paper -between the mold and the vise jaws; turn the machine by hand until -the metal pot is just ready to move forward; pull up on the paper, -which should bind a trifle as it is being withdrawn. If the paper -does not bind or binds too tight it would show that the slide is out -of adjustment. - -To make the slide adjustment, place the paper between the jaws and -the mold as in the test. Change the position of the mold slide by -moving the eccentric pin in the mold cam lever roller so that the -paper can be withdrawn, binding just a trifle. Moving the handle -forces the mold slide either forward or backward, as desired. - -The mold slide moves in the slideway on a gib. There should be .007 -of an inch play between the mold slide and the gib because the mold -slide will expand from the heat of the metal pot, but by having the -above mentioned play, it will not bind, and will slide in and out -freely. - -This adjustment is made by the two square head screws under the gib -on which the slide moves. There is no gib on the late model machines, -and consequently no adjustment for the slideway. - -As the mold slide advances, it slides up on the locking stud blocks -on the vise, raising the slide approximately .007 of an inch. The -screw beneath the mold disk guide on the mold gear arm should have a -little clearance above it when the slide is forward on the locking -stud blocks. There should be play enough to slip a sheet of paper -between the screw and the guide when the mold disk is forward on the -locking studs. - -To remove a mold slide: Lower the vise to second position, disconnect -the mold slide, and take out the ejector lever link. Pull forward on -the slide and disk, assembled, and lift out. - - - - -MOLD DISK LOCKING STUDS AND BLOCKS - - -After the mold disk makes the one-quarter and three-quarter -revolutions, the mold slide advances and the mold disk locking studs -enter the locking stud blocks which are on the vise. This keeps the -disk in position until the slug has been cast or ejected, as the case -may be. - -On old style machines the bushings are in the disk, and the studs are -in the blocks. On all the new machines the studs are in the disk and -each bushing and block is made in one piece. The blocks are held to -the vise by the screws and dowel pins that pass through the front of -the vise and screw into the blocks. The left-hand stud block on the -newer models is loose sidewise, which permits the studs to enter the -stud blocks with the minimum amount of wear to the parts. - -The stud blocks can be renewed by taking the old ones off one at a -time and using the remaining block as a guide. - -The studs should be kept lubricated with a little graphite and -grease. Too much will collect on the mold and get to the matrices. - - - - -EJECTOR SLIDE - - -The ejector slide is connected to the ejector lever, by means of -a link, and is located in the channel cut in the side of the mold -slide. It is operated by the ejector cam, which comes in contact with -the ejector lever pawl. The cam is held tight to cam No. 9 by means -of a screw and dowel pin. After the ejector lever is brought forward, -it is pushed back into position by cam No. 10 coming in contact with -a projection on the ejector lever. There is a buffer spring placed -on the ejector slide which prevents the slide falling forward with a -sudden jerk after the ejector lever has passed its center of gravity -and the slug has passed the resistance of the trimming knives. The -spring works on a rod which banks against the ejector blade guide. If -this spring is not functioning, the slug will be thrown out on the -floor. - - - - -EJECTOR BLADE - - -The blade is connected to the ejector slide by the pins that pass -through the holes in the blade, the pins being operated by the -springs, throw-out cam, and lever. The blade pushes the slug out of -the mold, between the trimming knives, into the chase channel. - -When the ejector blade advances to the ejecting position the front -end should come flush with the bracket on the chase or galley. If -it advanced beyond, the slug would be pushed out of the galley to -the floor. If it does not advance flush, the slug not being pushed -all the way out, would be turned to the right by the slug lever. The -adjustment is made with the screw that passes through the ejector -lever pawl. - -If the blade advances beyond the bracket, turn in the pawl screw and -raise the pawl. The higher the pawl is raised, the less distance the -slug advances. - -On machines that have the inclined galley, adjust blade to come flush -with the bevel on the knife block liner. - - - - -EJECTOR GUIDE BLOCK - - -The outer end of the ejector blade is held in place and guided by the -ejector guide block which sets directly back of the flange of the -mold disk, and is held by two machine screws passing through each -end of the block into the mold slide. This guide holds the blade in -position so it will pass squarely through the mold. It also helps the -buffer spring to steady the forward motion of the ejector. The point -of contact of the ejector block with the ejector blade is made of -brass and is held against the blade by spring tension. - -The ejector blade guide should be kept free from oil, dirt, and metal -shavings, as these impair the free working of the guide. The brass -strip should be replaced when worn. Loose screws or a worn brass -strip will cause slugs to be thrown out on the floor. - - -TO CHANGE AN EJECTOR BLADE - -Push in on the starting and stopping lever; let the vise down to -first position; back the machine by pushing back on cam No. 1 until -the second elevator falls on the safety hook; turn the mold disk -until the slot is in front of the blade; push the ejector lever -forward; remove the blade by reaching the right-hand in alongside -the mold slide and grasp the releasing lever and draw it towards the -front. Change the blade for the size wanted, and then let machine -come to normal position. Be careful not to get a blade wider than -the slug to be cast or there is danger of damaging the liners, or -the mold will be damaged. A good plan is always to check up on the -ejector blade after changing the liners. - - - - -UNIVERSAL EJECTOR - - -The universal ejector consists of a series of blades, 5-points in -thickness, in 2-em units; as a rule the first, or lower blade is a -4-em, and then in 2-em units up to 30-ems pica. These unit blades -move between plates, which brace them firmly on both sides, making -them rigid and preventing the blade from bending. - -The back end of the unit blades are fastened to ejector blade links -that move in grooves cut lengthwise of the slide. There is a link for -each unit blade and they terminate at the back end of the mold slide -in front of a groove milled across the slide. A movable controller -bar works in a groove in the ejector slide, moving up or down in the -groove, back of a lug on each of the blade links. When the ejector -lever forces the ejector slide forward, the controller bar in the -groove of the slide comes against the lugs of the ejector links -forcing the blades forward through the mold. - -The blades are withdrawn by a lug on the ejector slide coming in -contact with the lugs on the links. - -When desiring to change the length of the blade to be used, move the -ejector blade controlling lever handle up or down. This handle is -situated below the starting and stopping lever and is connected to -the controller bar by a screw link. Also connected to this handle is -a pica gauge which operates in a groove in the delivery channel. - -Moving the handle up or down engages less or more blades, the length -being indicated on the pica gauge in the delivery channel. - -To remove the mold slide on machines which have a universal ejector, -lower the vise to second position, set the ejector at 10 or 12 ems, -take out the ejector blade controller link which screws into the -controller link lift. This will permit the controller bar to drop -out. Disconnect the mold slide and take out the ejector lever link. -If the machine is connected up with the water for cooling the molds, -it will be necessary to disconnect the hose before taking out the -slide. - - -REMOVING A STUCK SLUG - -When there is a slug stuck in the mold, allow the machine to come -to normal by backing the machine sufficiently to allow the ejector -lever pawl to be raised, draw back on the ejector lever until the -pawl clears the ejector cam. Pull out the starting lever allowing the -machine to come to normal. Open the vise and remove the slug from the -mold by loosening the mold cap screws. Do not drive a stuck slug out -with the ejector blade. - - - - -MOLD KNIFE - - -The mold or back knife trims the base of the slug and is fastened to -the mold slide arm, back of the mold disk. It is placed at an angle -of about 45 degrees and is held by two washers and two round-head -screws which pass through the slotted holes of the knife. It is also -held by two adjusting screws that set against the base so that the -knife will set squarely and press lightly against the mold as the -disk is turned from casting to the ejecting position. As the mold -passes in front of the knife, the slug should be trimmed type-high, -which is .918 of an inch. - -The front of the mold disk, when turning, must be bearing against the -mold disk guide so as to keep the mold against the knife while the -slug is being trimmed. If the mold disk guide does not set snugly -against the disk, the disk will spring away from the knife and the -slug will be higher on one end than the other. The guide is adjusted -by loosening the screw which holds it to the mold slide and moving it -snugly against the mold disk. Do not set the guide tight enough to -bind and prevent the free turning of the disk. - -It sometimes happens that a disk will bind at one or more places as -it is being turned. This is due to the disk becoming warped from -heat or some other cause. If it is only a slight bind it will not -interfere with the adjustment. - -Whenever it is necessary to put on a new or resharpened mold knife, -or to adjust it, be sure the mold disk guide is bearing against the -rim of the mold disk. It is always better to remove the guide and -clean it as it must be perfectly clean when it seats against the -disk. Always have the knife away from the mold when seating the -guide. Tighten the hexagon head screw slightly and then tap the guide -until a slight pressure against the disk is secured. Turn the disk -by hand until an even pressure has been secured and then tighten the -hexagon head nut tight. - -Place the mold knife on the knife seat; be sure the seat is clean, -for the least particle of dirt or metal will make it more difficult -to make the adjustment. Also the bottom of the mold must be perfectly -clean and free from all metal. Set the knife square with, but not -quite touching the mold. Tighten down on the two round-head screws, -then adjust with the two screws under the bottom of knife so that -mold will turn without binding. The left-hand end of the knife trims -the ends of the slugs; the center of the knife trims the center of -the slugs. Avoid excessive pressure on either side as the knife is so -shaped that the sharp edge should just touch the mold. - -After making sure that the guide block and the knife are properly -set, cover the back of the mold with a thin coating of red lead; turn -the disk and mold until the mold passes the knife. If the knife is -adjusted properly, it should scrape the lead from the mold. It is -not always an easy matter to set a mold knife, taking considerable -patience and care because the knife must be set to thousandths of -an inch. Cast a slug and measure with the micrometers to make sure -the slug is trimmed to the proper height. When measuring the slug -for height with micrometers, use a slug 15 picas in length, or one -that fills half of the capacity of the mold. Have the regular letter -characters cast on the slug. - -Metal will adhere to the bottom of the mold if the mold knife is not -sharp or properly adjusted. To keep a perfect lockup the bottom of -the mold must be kept clean. Mold knives can be resharpened, but -as they are shaped to set just so the edge of the knife touches -the mold and must not vary, for even .001 of an inch will spoil -the adjustment, they should be shipped to the nearest agency to be -resharpened. - -Be sure the knife is at fault before starting to adjust it. - - -MOLD BANKING STRIPS - -The mold banking strips are fastened on the vise, one above the -parallel knives and the other one below the bottom end of the knives. -These strips prevent the mold from coming in contact with the knives -and holds the disk rigid when ejecting the slug, assisting the knives -in trimming the slug parallel. The mold slide should advance the -proper distance so the mold will just bank against the banking strips -when forward for ejecting the slug. - - - - -KNIFE BLOCK - - -At the present time there are two styles of knife blocks in common -use, namely: The wedge adjustment block, which allows for a range -from 5 to 12 points, inclusive; and the universal knife block which -allows for a range from 5 to 36 points, inclusive. These blocks -are fastened to the vise frame by two hexagon head machine screws -and held rigid by four dowel pins. To remove the block it is only -necessary to take out the two machine screws and work the block out -of the dowel pin holes. A certain amount of care is necessary not to -drop the block or bend the pins. - - -TRIMMING KNIVES - -The purpose of the trimming knives is to trim the slugs to the proper -size and the sides parallel. - -The measurement of a type-founders point is .0138-⅓ of an inch. The -measurement of a linotype point is .014 of an inch. - -The point unit now used on the matrices is the one used by the -type-founders. The linotype point is still being used when adjusting -the trimming knives. A 10-point slug, when trimmed correctly, should -measure .140 of an inch, or 10 times .014 of an inch. - -The left-hand knife trims the overhang from the smooth side of the -slug and is held to the vise by two square head screws that pass -through the front, and is adjusted by two screws, at the top and -bottom of the knife block and bearing against the knife. This knife -should be adjusted to be in line with the left side of the mold; it -is only intended to remove the fins which form at the top of the -slug. It is not intended to remove metal from the smooth side of the -slug. - -If the left-hand knife does not trim the overhang off the slug, it -will cause the slugs to be thicker at the top than at the bottom, and -be off their feet. This will cause trouble in the lockup of the form, -the columns having a tendency to raise up in the center. - -Always loosen the two screws which hold the knife to the vise when -making any adjustment of the left-hand knife. Turning in on the -adjusting screws without loosening the two lock screws may cause the -knife to spring and trim the slugs more in the center than on the -ends. - -The right-hand knife trims the slug to thickness and is held to -the slide bracket on the universal knife block, by two round head -screws. It is forced to the right against the adjusting screws by -two springs. The screws that hold the knife to the bracket should be -loose when moving the adjusting screws outward, as the spring should -force the knife against the adjusting screws in this movement. It -is not necessary to release the screws that hold the knife to the -bracket when turning the screws inward as the screws are forced -against the knife in this adjustment. - -The screws in the sector are set to step from one point size to -another and should not be changed except when necessary to trim any -body size to a special thickness. - -Beneath the bracket to which the knife is fastened are two spiral -springs that force the bracket and knob button against the sector -screws. Moving the lever operates the sector, and the screw coming -in contact with the button on the slide causes the knife to move in -or out one point or as many as the lever is moved. When casting a -10-point slug, have the pointer on figure 10. - -After having the knives adjusted to trim one size slug, the knife -block is constructed so as to trim all others, by merely moving the -handle on the knife block. When changing the universal knife block, -be sure that one of the lever detent pins has entered the hole in the -sector. - -To adjust the trimming knives, first set the right-hand knife by -turning the two adjusting screws that are in the knife block slide -bracket and touching the side of the knife, so it will trim the -ribs of a slug; then adjust the knife that trims the overhang from -the smooth side of the slug; then re-adjust the right-hand knife to -thickness and parallel. Do not attempt to adjust the knife that trims -the overhang from the smooth side of the slug unless the right-hand -knife is trimming the ribs. - - -WEDGE STYLE KNIFE BLOCK - -The wedge style knife block is the old style quick-change block -and is held to the vise in the same manner as the universal block. -The left-hand knife is mounted and adjusted the same as with the -universal block. The right-hand knife is held to the block by two -shoulder screws which pass through the two friction springs and -washers from the front of the block. This assembly holds the knife -tight against the block, but permits the two strong springs to force -the knife against the wedge. - -The wedge is operated by a small hand lever and is graduated from 5 -to 12 points, inclusive. By pulling the lever up or down the wedge -moves and the knife follows the wedge. - - -KNIFE, RIGHT HAND, SPRING PLATE - -There is a steel plate assembled in the right side of the knife block -which keeps the slugs upright as they travel through the knife block -into the chase. This plate is called the knife spring plate and is -held in place by two lugs at the back of the plate extending into -the base of the right-hand knife. It is forced toward the left by a -flat bronze spring, called the spring plate spring. There should be -just enough tension on this spring to force the plate up against the -outgoing slug with an even pressure so the slug will be held upright -as it is being pushed into the chase by the ejector blade. The flat -spring is so shaped that the ends fit behind rivet heads, to hold the -plate in place. If the spring becomes bent so it will not stay behind -the rivets, the lugs will work out of their seat and the gate will -obstruct the passageway of the slug. This will oftentimes smash the -face of the slugs. - - -FACTS AND SUGGESTIONS ABOUT TRIMMING KNIVES - -The right-hand knife must be adjusted so that its edge is exactly -parallel with the left-hand knife in order to make the slug of equal -thickness throughout its entire length. The faces of the two knives -separate slightly toward the front of the machine, which allows the -slug to pass freely forward from the cutting edges. The right-hand -knife must be shaped so there is a cutting edge of about 1/64 of an -inch on the side that stands next to the slug. By having this edge -the “gouging” of the knife into the slug is prevented, and slugs are -trimmed to equal thickness at the top and bottom. This cutting edge -must never be more than 1/64 of an inch. - -Always remember that the knives can be set to trim the slugs -perfectly from one point-size to another with accuracy, but it -requires patience, as the knives must be adjusted to a thousandth -part of an inch. - -Keep the knife block and the knives clean. The seat of the knives -should also be clean. It will be impossible to get an accurate -adjustment if dirt or gum interferes with the movement of the knives. - -The trimming knives should have exceedingly sharp or thin edges to -work satisfactorily. If the knives become very dull or the cutting -edge rounded or nicked, they should be taken off the machine and -reground. Send them to the nearest agency as they are equipped with -grinders and other fixtures to do this regrinding and maintain -the correct angles and shape of the knives. Always send both the -right-hand and left-hand knives, as they should be reground in pairs, -and the cutting edges should exactly match each other in order to -obtain good results. - -Use a full measure slug when adjusting the trimming knives. Cast a -full line of capital letters on the slug and hold the matrices for -recast. Measure the slug on the ribs at the top and near the bottom. -The slug should measure the same at the top edge and near the bottom -if the knife which trims the smooth side is correctly set. The slug -should measure the same at the top edge of both ends if the knife -which trims the rib side of the slug is correctly set. - -Before setting the trimming knives, make sure that the mold is -properly seated in the mold disk and that there is no metal between -the liners and the mold. - -When the trimming knives become dull it is practically impossible to -set them to trim accurately. Even when they are set nearly accurate, -they will hold the adjustment only a short time. - -Dull knives also cause trouble by making it difficult to eject the -slug. This will often cause the clutch to slip. - -When a long slug measures thicker or thinner at the ends than in the -center, it is usually due to dull knives, but may be caused by the -knives being forced in a twist or strain by the adjusting screws or -some foreign substance behind the knives. - - - - -KNIFE WIPER - - -The knife wiper is a very important part of the Linotype. Its -function is to wipe the burrs or slug trimmings from the face of the -parallel knives after a slug is ejected. If the knife wiper is not -working, the face of the line of type will have an accumulation of -shavings from the previous line on it. - -The knife wiper in use on all machines of very recent manufacture -is operated by a small roller, fastened to a bracket on the first -elevator slide, which comes in contact with a lever connected to the -knife wiper bar. When the elevator goes from normal to the lower, or -casting, position, the knife wiper bar is forced upward. On the upper -end of the knife wiper bar is a small brass wiper which is forced -upward with the bar. This wiper rubs against the trimming knives, -cleaning them of the metal shavings which may have lodged from the -previous slug trimmed. - -There are no adjustments on this type of wiper, except to have the -brass lightly touching the knives. - - -OLD STYLE KNIFE WIPER - -There are quite a number of the old style knife wipers still in use. -This knife wiper is operated by a latch rod on the first elevator -lever. This rod comes in contact with a latch on the knife wiper -bar, on its downward stroke, and pushes the bar upward by coming in -contact with the bottom of wiper bar on the upward stroke of the -first elevator lever. The wiper bar should be free to move up and -down in the guides, moving the brass wiper lightly over the face of -the trimming knives. On the upper part of the wiper bar are two pins -which prevent the bar from going too far below the knives and too -high above them. A flat spring riding over the top of the bar holds -it to the bottom of the guide so the brass wiper can operate properly. - -The brass wiper is held to the bar with two flat head screws, and the -constant passing of the wiper over the face of the sharp knives soon -wears the wiper so it will break off. A new wiper must be applied or -the shavings will hang to the slugs. - -Never have the wiper bearing too hard on the face of the knife as -the constant rubbing up and down will dull the trimming edge of the -knives and wear the wiper in a short time. - -Keep the knife wiper in good working condition all the time and save -proofreader’s marks. - -Do not forget that the knife wiper is operated by the first elevator -slide. Therefore anything that prevents the free action of the wiper -will interfere with the movement of the first elevator. - - - - -MOLD TURNING CAM, SQUARE BLOCK, AND PINION - - -The mold turning cam, known as cam No. 3, has attached to its side -the long and short gear segments which impart rotation to the mold -turning pinion and square block as the cam revolves. The square block -and pinion are found on the inside of the mold gear arm. The gear -segments on the mold turning cam turns the pinion, the pinion turns -the mold turning shaft, and the mold turning shaft turns the mold -disk, through the mold disk pinion which meshes with the mold disk. -The short segment turns the mold disk one-quarter of a revolution so -as to bring the mold disk into casting position. The long segment -turns the disk three-quarters of a revolution, bringing the mold -and disk in ejecting position. The mold disk makes one complete -revolution in one revolution of the cams. - -When the disk makes one-quarter revolution, it is advanced so as -to lock the stud block on the vise with the studs on the mold -disk, and the slug is cast; the mold then is withdrawn and makes -a three-quarter revolution, advancing again and locking to eject -the slug. When the mold disk makes the quarter and three-quarter -revolutions, all lost motion must be taken up by the square block on -the pinion. If there is any lost motion, the studs on the mold disk -would not be parallel with the stud blocks on the vise so that they -could not enter them without coming in contact with the rim of the -stud block. - - -ADJUSTING SHOES - -On the mold turning cam are two adjustable steel shoes for the -purpose of taking up the play between the shoes and the square block -when in the casting and ejecting position. These shoes are adjusted -by screwing in on the bushing screws that extend through the cam and -bank against the shoes. Each shoe is held in place by two machine -screws that extend through the bushing screw into the shoe. When -adjusting the shoes care must be taken to make them parallel. The -distance from the front end of each shoe to the outside of the cam -must be the same as it is from the back end of the shoe to the -outside of the cam. If these shoes are adjusted wider at the back -than at the front they act as wedges as they go down by the square -pinion, and may break the cam at the weakest point. If a shoe is -set too tight against the square pinion it will break the cam. -All that is necessary is to adjust them so as to take up the lost -motion between the shoes and the square pinion. It is better to use -a micrometer to measure the shoes to make sure they are parallel. -Allow a trifle lost motion between the square block and the shoes, -because it is better for them to have a little play than to be too -tight and perhaps break the cam. - -The square block and pinion are held in position on the shaft by a -set screw, and there is no adjustment except to have this screw on -the top when the machine is in normal position. The screw passes -through the square block to the shaft and must enter the spot drilled -on the shaft for the point of the screw so as to hold the pinion -tight. On the two sides of the square block are two steel shoes, -which are held to it by screws. These shoes can be renewed when they -become worn. - - - - -MOLD DRIVING SHAFT FRICTION CLAMP - - -The object of the friction clamp is to prevent the mold disk from -vibrating when advancing to the casting or ejecting position, and is -found attached to the mold driving shaft and held by a pin in the -mold gear arm. The lost motion in several pinions from which the mold -disk gets its action, will cause the disk to vibrate when stopping -ready to advance on the vise stud blocks, unless it is held by the -clamp which acts as a brake. - -When the mold disk has made the one-quarter and three-quarter -revolutions it must remain in that position, or the locking studs, -coming in contact with the rims of the stud block, would wear. - -The friction clamp which overcomes the vibration is made in two -sections, with a leather lining, and connected to the mold turning -shaft. A spring, washer, and lock nut add to its construction. The -pin in the mold gear arm to which it is also connected prevents -it from turning with the shaft. Do not have more friction than -necessary, for if there is too much, the main clutch could not drive -the machine, as the strong friction on the clamp would overcome the -pull of the clutch spring. - - -RETIMING MOLD GEARS - -There are various methods of retiming the gears of the mold disk -drive in case it is necessary to pull the disk forward while the -machine is out of normal. - -One method is to observe the position of the mold turning segments. -Remember that the short segment causes the mold to revolve -one-quarter revolution, or from normal to casting position. The long -segment causes the mold to revolve three-quarters revolution, or from -casting to ejecting position. The mold disk turns counter-clockwise. -Place the gears in mesh so the punch marks on the gears register. -Lock the mold slide in position. The drive pinion makes one complete -revolution for each quarter revolution of the mold disk, and it goes -on the connection pin at any complete revolution. Hold out on the -drive pinion and turn the disk and drive pinion by hand the distance -indicated by the amount of the segments which have passed the square -block drive pinion. When the connecting pin enters the hole in the -drive pinion, with the mold in the estimated position, the disk -should be in time. Be sure the mold which is being used is the one -which is placed in this position. For example, if the short segment -and half of the long segment have passed the square block drive -pinion, the mold should be turned one-half the distance from casting -to ejection position. To observe what part of the segment is past -the pinion, look directly underneath the frame of the machine which -supports the mold turning shaft. - -Another method of putting the disk in time is to disregard the -position of the cams, connect the mold slide, and bring the disk, -with the mold that is being used, into ejecting position. Hold the -mold turning pinion away from the pin that connects it to the shaft, -so that the disk will not revolve as the machine is set in motion. -Pull out on the starting and stopping lever, thus letting the machine -run around to normal position. Be sure that the disk locking studs -are parallel with the stud blocks before starting the machine. - -It is only necessary to let the vise down, disconnect the mold lever -from the slide, and put the disk and drive pinion in time. - - - - -THE JUSTIFICATION LEVERS AND VISE JUSTIFICATION - - -The two justification levers are located under the metal pot and main -cams, extend forward from the back of the machine, and connect with -the vise justification rods. These levers operate the justification -rods and bar, assembled on the vise, and the vise closing lever. The -levers get their motion from rollers which follow the contour of cams -No. 4 and 5, and are held against the cams by two strong springs -in the rear of the machine. The justification bar rests on top of -two rods that are forced up and down by the justification levers in -guides in the frame of the vise. The rods are connected together by -the justification bar and a diagonal brace rod, the various parts -being connected by wing pins. The function of the justification bar -is to drive the spacebands upward to justify the line just before the -line is cast. - -The right-hand lever is called the first justification lever and is -operated by cam No. 5. There are two upward movements of this lever: -The preliminary, which justifies the line lightly; and the final, -which justifies the line tightly for the cast. - -When the justification lever forces the rods upward for the first -justification, the rod block moves upward at a slight angle, striking -the spaceband at the right-hand end of the line first, and the others -in quick succession. This action is so rapid that all the spacebands -appear to move upward simultaneously. This causes the line to spread -from right to left. After the first justification the spacebands -stand at an uneven height, those at the right of the line being a -trifle higher than those at the left. Since the line of matrices -must fill the entire space between the jaws in order to cast, it -is apparent that in order to get the greatest possible freedom -of action it is necessary that the matrices be pushed toward the -left gradually. Should the rod block come up perfectly horizontal, -the spacebands would move to the left at the same time they are -moving upward. This would cause them to drag on the rod block and -prevent a good lockup and alignment and a possibility of bending the -spacebands. By coming up on a slight angle, each band is practically -justified separately in its particular part of the line, and the -dragging of the bands on the rod block is greatly reduced. - -The justification lever also makes a slight upward movement after the -slug has been ejected. This movement operates the slug lever, through -a roller, and pushes the slugs forward in the stick. - -The spring which operates the first justification lever should be -strong enough to justify the line properly, regardless of the number -of spacebands in the line. Before changing the tension at any time, -be sure that the mold slide is properly adjusted. If the mold should -lock too tight against the line it would bind the matrices and -prevent proper justification. This would give the appearance of weak -justification springs. - -The left-hand lever is called the vise closing lever, and is U-shaped -on the forward end. One arm is connected by a hinge pin to the -left-hand vise closing wedge and block. The other arm grooves around -the left-hand justification rod, beneath a lug on the rod. - -After the line is brought to the casting position, the vise closing -lever moves upward, immediately followed by the justification lever. -The vise closing lever locks the left-hand vise jaw against the line -and assists the justification lever on its second movement upward. -While these two levers move almost in unison, their functions are -different. On second justification, the vise closing lever moves -upward slightly in advance of the first justification lever and -supports the left-hand end of the spaceband driving block, so that -the spacebands are all driven to an equal height. On the first -justification, the vise closing lever does not come in contact with -the spaceband driving block. - -The justification spring is stronger than the vise closing spring. If -for any reason the justification springs are removed, care should be -taken that they are not changed while replacing them. - - - - -THE VISE - - -The vise is that part of the machine which carries, as its main -parts, the first elevator slide, the vise justification rods, the -trimming knives, the vise automatic, the vise jaws, the slug lever, -the mold disk locking stud blocks, the mold banking blocks, and the -knife wiper. - -The bottom end of the vise is hinged to the base of the machine by -a shaft. The top part is locked to the machine by the vise locking -screws, which interlock with the vise locking studs on the frame. - -To open the vise to first position, push the control lever all the -way in, and turn the handles of the locking screws in a vertical -position, in which position they will be disengaged from the vise -locking studs. - -The vise may be opened to first position at any time when the mold -disk is not forward on the locking studs, or the first elevator -is not in the top guide. The vise should never be opened to first -position when the mold disk is forward on the locking studs because -it is difficult to get it relocked on the studs against the lockup -pressure; also there is danger of getting the ends of justification -levers out of position under the collars on the justification rods. - -To open the vise to second position, let the machine turn forward -until the first elevator is resting on the vise cap, just before the -mold disk advances. Then lower to first position. Hold the vise up -with the left hand, release pawl at the extreme bottom end of vise -frame and let the vise down easily, pulling up on the first elevator -slide with the right hand. This keeps the link from being damaged. - -Never let the vise down to second position unless the first elevator -is in the lower position. To do so would throw the weight of the vise -on the first elevator lever, with danger of breaking the lever. - -The vise locking studs are set at the factory to give the proper -alignment of the vise with the mold. The studs often have a very -thin washer between their back shoulder and the frame to give them -the proper adjustment. Should it be necessary to remove or replace a -stud, be careful not to lose or leave out the washers. Neither should -more washers be added. To do so would force the vise in a strain when -locked up, and cause an improper height of the slug. - - - - -VISE JAWS - - -The vise jaws, between which the line is justified, regulates the -position of the face of the type on each end of the slug. The mold -liner regulates the length of the slug. The vise jaws should be -adjusted to have the face of the type flush with each end of the slug. - -The short, or right-hand, jaw is adjusted by the adjusting screw in -the knife block, under the right-hand vise locking pin. When the -line is being justified, the matrix on the right-hand end is forced -against the face of the short jaw. The matrix on the left is forced -against the face of the long, or left-hand, jaw which is held tight -by the vise closing screw on the older models, or the vise closing -wedge on the newer models. - -When it is desired to change the measure to be set, adjust the -left-hand jaw with the adjusting rod. One-half em is the shortest -distance the long jaw can be adjusted with the rod. If it is -necessary to adjust less than this distance use the adjusting bushing -which screws in the bracket. This applies to machines that are -equipped with the vise closing wedge. - -On the older models, remove the screw that passes through the vise -closing screw arm and screws into the adjusting flange. Then adjust -the vise closing screws, which move the nut in or out. - - - - -PUMP STOP - - -The pump stop prevents the pump lever from operating if the line is -not properly justified. The short, or right-hand, vise jaw operates -the pump stop operating lever. When the line is justified the -right-hand jaw is moved to the right against the adjusting screw -in the operating lever which forces the stop lever from under the -catch block, allowing the pump lever to operate. If the line is not -justified, the right-hand jaw does not touch the adjusting screw -and the stop lever is allowed to remain under the catch block. This -prevents the pump lever from operating. - -The pump stop should have 1/32 of an inch between the pump stop lever -and pot lever block when line is properly justified. - -The pump stop lever is found under the pot lever block. It is -connected to a bracket by a screw, and operated by a spring and -operating lever. The adjustment is made with the screw in the -operating lever. - -To test this adjustment, push the right-hand jaw toward the right and -observe if the lever is clearing the block the proper distance. - -When the line is justified the pump stop operating lever, which is -forced to the right by the short vise jaw, should have a trifle lost -motion; if not, the position of the type on the right end of the slug -would be regulated by the adjusting screw in the pump stop operating -lever instead of the adjusting screw in the knife block. - - - - -THE FRICTION CLUTCH - - -The driving shaft of the machine is in two sections: The shaft -proper, and the short shaft that carries the driving pinion. This -pinion meshes with the driving gear, the two shafts being held -together by a taper pin. The driving pinion makes eleven revolutions -to one of the gear, the ratio being 11 to 1. - -The outer end of the driving shaft is hollow. Inside of the hollow -shaft is a clutch rod and a spring. The spring fits against a collar -on this rod and draws the rod inward. The inner end of the clutch rod -is fastened by means of a long screw pin extending through a hole in -the rod to a collar which encircles the shaft, the hole in the shaft -being slotted, so that when the collar is moved the rod moves also. -On the outward end of the shaft is mounted the friction clutch, the -levers being fastened to the end of the clutch rod. The friction -clutch is keyed to the hollow shaft, so when the clutch is turned it -also turns the shaft. - -Pressure on a forked lever fulcrumed to the base of the machine, one -end of which encircles the collar and the other end touching the -lower stop lever, holds the clutch out of action. When the pressure -of the forked lever against the collar is released, the clutch spring -expands and the clutch rod moves the collar inward until the leather -buffers are pushed against the inner surface of the driving pulley, -causing the shaft to rotate. - -After the machine has made a complete revolution, a pawl on cam No. -10 contacts the upper stopping lever and through the lower stopping -lever forces the forked lever against the collar, throwing the -friction out of action. - - -THE CLUTCH SPRING - -The clutch spring is held in place by a small collar on the inside -end of the clutch rod and a screw bushing on the outside, by which -the tension of the spring is regulated. This tension should be -sixteen to twenty pounds. A screw pin passes through a slot in the -shaft, through the clutch rod, and into the opposite side of the -collar. The outer end of the clutch rod is connected to the friction -clutch by a screw which passes through the clutch rod. By taking off -the clutch and hooking a balance spring in the screw hole in the rod -and pulling out on the scale, the instant the rod moves the scale -indicates the tension of the spring registered. One end of the clutch -rod is connected to the collar on the shaft, and the other end is -connected to the clutch. When the collar is moved the clutch rod also -moves in the same direction. - -When the clutch rod spring is adjusted to a tension of 16 to 20 -pounds it gives about the right friction to carry the machine through -all its operations where everything is working properly, but if -anything sticks or makes the machine run hard, the clutch will slip. - - -FRICTION CLUTCH ADJUSTMENTS - -There are three positions of the starting and stopping lever: -Starting, operation, and stopping. When pulled all of the way out -the lever is in starting position. When the lever is in starting -position, the eccentric screw in the starting and stopping lever -pulls against the lug in the vertical lever and causes the upper lug -to force the automatic stopping pawl off the upper stopping lever. -This sets the machine in action. When the lever is half way out it is -in operating position and allows the machine to start when a line is -sent in. When the lever is pushed all the way in the clutch is thrown -out of action and the machine is stopped. - -When making any adjustments, have the lever in starting position (out -as far as it will go). If the automatic stopping pawl is resting on -the upper stopping lever, the adjustments could not be made, as the -lower stopping lever would be forcing the forked lever against the -collar, throwing the friction clutch out of action. - -The friction clutch should be adjusted so as to have 15/32 of an -inch between the collar and the shaft bearing. Place a 15/32 inch -gage between the right-hand side of the collar and the left-hand -side of the shaft bearing. If the distance is less than 15/32 of -an inch, dress the leather buffers with a file. If the distance is -more, place cardboard under the buffers to increase the thickness. On -old-style machines this adjustment was made by two nuts, one on each -side of the clutch rod. Putting cardboard under the buffers will not -satisfactorily drive the machine if something else is wrong. If there -is too much packing under the leathers the starting and stopping -lever will have no effect on the clutch and the machine will not stop -properly. - -The upper stopping lever and the lower stopping lever are fastened -by pin pivots to a steel shaft which passes through the vertical -lever. This allows a limited up and down movement of the stopping -levers. The shaft is held in position by a set screw in the top of -the vertical lever bracket. When the machine is in action the forked -lever must be free of the collar. If it is not, the clutch does not -get the proper pressure on the inside of the pulley, because the -forked lever would push against the collar and force the rod and -clutch outward. To be sure the forked lever is free of the collar, -adjust so there is 1/32 of an inch between the lower stopping lever -and the forked lever. This adjustment is made by the screw in the -lower part of the upper stopping lever. - -When the upper stopping pawl comes to rest on the upper stopping -lever, it forces the adjusting screw in the lower part of the upper -stopping lever against the lower stopping lever, and the bottom -end of the lower stopping lever causes the forked lever to force -the collar out, throwing the clutch out of action and stopping the -machine. This gives a horizontal movement from a vertical action. -The automatic stop pawl should rest on the upper stopping lever ¼ -of an inch when the machine is at normal. This adjustment is made -by loosening the set screw which holds the shaft in the vertical -starting lever, and moving the lever sidewise. When the stopping -pawl rests ¼ of an inch on the upper stopping lever, the automatic -safety pawl will also rest on it exactly the same, as both pawls are -adjusted the same. - -Fastened to cam No. 10 are two pawls. One is the automatic stopping -pawl and stops the machine after it has made one complete revolution. -The other is the automatic safety pawl, and stops the machine when -a line fails to transfer from the first to the second elevator. -These two pawls are adjusted by screws that pass through the pawl -and strike the lug of the cam, and are held against this lug with -a spring. The distance from the left-hand side of the pawl to the -left-hand side of the cam should be 15/16 of an inch. - -The vertical lever is fastened to the column, at the back of the -machine above the forked lever, by a hexagon head machine screw at -its upper end. The lower end is held in place by the shaft which -passes through the lever into the machine frame. The only time the -vertical lever is in action is when the machine is started by the -starting and stopping lever. On the starting lever is an eccentric -screw which stands behind the lower lug of the vertical lever. When -the starting and stopping lever is pulled out, the eccentric screw -engages the lower lug and pulls it forward, causing the upper lug to -push the stopping or safety pawls clear of the upper stopping lever. -There are three lugs on the vertical lever: The upper lug, the lower -lug, and the lug inside of the bracket. - -There is a headless screw in the vertical lever bracket, the front -end encircled by a spring. This spring forces the vertical lever -back to its normal position after the lever has been pulled forward -by the starting and stopping lever. When pulled forward, the upper -lug strikes against the automatic stopping pawl forcing it clear of -the upper stopping lever. This adjustment is made by means of the -headless screw in the lever bracket. The proper adjustment forces -the stopping pawl 1/16 of an inch clear of the upper stopping lever. -The lug inside the bracket should permit the upper lug to clear -the stopping pawl 1/64 of an inch when the lug is at rest. This -adjustment is made by turning the adjusting screw in the column -opposite the headless screw. This screw regulates the stroke of the -inner lug. - -Unless the upper vertical lug, after pushing the stopping pawls -off the upper stopping lever, returns clear of the pawls, it would -prevent the pawls from seating properly on the upper stopping lever. - -The adjustment of the lower lug of the vertical lever and the -eccentric screw on the starting lever should be made by releasing the -set nut on the eccentric screw and turning the screw until there is -1/32 of an inch between the screw and the lug. If this adjustment is -not properly made it will interfere with the upper lug and throw it -out of adjustment. - - -FRICTION CLUTCH HINTS - -To remove the friction clutch: Push in on the starting and stopping -lever. Take out the fulcrum screw or remove the nut from the outer -end of the clutch rod. Remove the clutch arm key screw. The clutch -can now be removed. Be careful in replacing the friction to have the -key with the bevel down and toward the back of the keyway. - -The driving pulleys or gear can be removed only when the friction -clutch is removed. - -To remove the clutch rod spring: Remove the friction clutch. Unscrew -the screw bushing from the end of the shaft, take out the screw -extending through the collar, and pull out the clutch rod and the -spring. - -If the machine stops on the upper stopping lever with a jerk, the -inner side of the driving pulley or the friction clutch leathers are -gummy or the friction is out of adjustment. - -The inner surface of the driving pulley must be kept clean. - -If the machine slows up while casting or ejecting, the clutch is -slipping. - -The 15/32 of an inch adjustment is made by the nut on the clutch rod -on the old style, and by building up under the leathers on the new. - -The 1/32 of an inch adjustment is made by the screw in the lower part -of the upper stopping lever. - -The machine will not stop when the key screw in the clutch arm works -loose, allowing the friction clutch to work toward the outer end of -the shaft. - -A screw holding the clutch leather shoe in place, may extend above -the shoe and cause the friction to slip. - -The friction link collar, where it fastens on to the clutch rod, -should be parallel with the driving pulley or gear when the machine -is in operating position; if not, there is unequal pressure on the -links and shoes, causing a slipping clutch. - -Study the friction clutch adjustments, but do not change them every -time something stops the machine. It is much easier to break an -adjustment than to make one. - -A piece of metal from a squirt lodged between the mold disk guide or -back of the rim on the disk will cause it to bind, placing more pull -on the clutch. - - - - -STAY BOLT - - -The stay bolt passes through the main cam shaft bracket cap and -screws into the column. The object of the stay bolt is to take the -strain from the column. When the machine is in casting position with -the pot locking against the mold, the mold and disk forcing against -the vise, and the right-hand side of the vise locking against the -stud, there is considerable strain on the column. If the column -should spring, the vise would also move and the lockup would be -imperfect. In applying the stay bolt, never tighten it with a wrench. -If too tight, it will spring the bracket cap and cause the cam shaft -to bind and the clutch will not drive the machine. Screw it in with -your fingers until the head of the bolt bears lightly against the -bracket. - - - - -VISE AUTOMATIC - - -The purpose of the vise automatic is to prevent the mold from coming -forward and shearing the lugs of the matrices whenever anything -prevents the first elevator from descending low enough for the first -elevator adjusting screw to rest on the vise cap. - -The vise automatic consists of a stop rod, stop rod pawl, mold disk -dog, and vise automatic levers. - -The stop rod is suspended and held upward by a spring, the top end of -the rod extending through the vise cap and the lower end resting back -of the lever which operates against the clutch rod. - -A little below center in the stop rod is the stop rod pawl. This pawl -is held in place in a slot by a small coil spring which sets just -back of the pawl in the stop rod. This spring, in addition to holding -the pawl in place, also gives the pawl a little play which allows -more of a bite when the pawl is placed in action. - -The mold disk dog is held in the vise frame by a screw which extends -downward through a slotted hole in the dog. Inside the mold disk dog -is a coil spring. This spring is to hold the dog back toward the mold -and should be strong enough to keep the mold disk dog pin against the -retaining screw when the vise automatic is not in action. - -When the first elevator is in its lowest position the vise automatic -adjusting screw touches the upper end of the stop rod and forces it -downward. When the mold slide advances, the mold opposite the one -in use pushes the mold disk dog out, above the pawl, and allows the -machine to remain in action. However, should the first elevator fail -to descend low enough for the stop rod to be pushed down, the dog, as -it is advanced by the mold, strikes against the pawl and forces it -forward against the vise automatic levers, stopping the machine. - -The mold disk dog must clear the automatic stop rod when the first -elevator adjusting screw is resting on the vise cap. - -To make this adjustment turn the machine until the first elevator -is resting on the vise cap. Move the adjusting screw so the stop -rod pawl will just pass below the dog. To test, have machine in -normal position, place a thin matrix on the vise cap under the first -elevator adjusting screw. Pull out on the starting and stopping -lever, setting the machine in action. The first elevator, not going -to its proper position, the driving clutch should be forced out of -action by the vise automatic. After backing the machine a trifle and -removing the matrix, the machine should start. - -The machine will not stop when making this test, if either the lip -of the disk dog, or the pawl is damaged. If damaged or worn, replace -with new parts, as the vise automatic should always be in working -condition. - -If the machine is delayed in stopping when the vise automatic goes -into action, look at the 15/32 and 1/32 inch adjustments on the -friction clutch. - -When replacing the mold disk dog, be sure that the screw goes between -the spring and the pin. This is accomplished by turning the screw -down until it is below the level of the pin. Then push in on the dog -until the pin strikes the screw. Raise the screw slowly until the -pin will just pass under the end of the screw, pushing in on the dog -while the screw is being raised. Push in on the dog and turn the -screw down just inside the pin. The screw will then be between the -spring and the pin. Be careful not to turn the screw down on the -spring, as it will damage the spring and not allow the dog to operate. - -On the machines with four-pocket mold disks, the dog is pushed -forward as the mold slide comes forward in ejecting position. This -action of the dog would operate the automatic, throwing the clutch -out of action and stopping the machine at ejecting position. To -overcome this action, there is a stop rod lever and bracket assembled -on the vise frame in front of the automatic stop lever. The lever is -fastened to the bracket by a fulcrum screw. One end of this lever -carries a small roller, and the other end rests above a pin in the -stop rod. The roller runs on a runway at the back of the first -elevator slide on the right-hand side. The stop rod is pulled down -below the mold disk dog by the lever until the slide moves downward, -the roller follows the runway, when owing to a depression, the roller -drops, releasing the lever and permitting the stop rod to come -to operating position in front of the dog. As the slide moves to -transfer position, the lever pulls the stop rod down below the dog. - - - - -FILLING PIECE AND SAFETY LUG - - -Attached to all new machines is a filling piece that is known as -the simple two-letter attachment. This attachment is fastened by -two screws to the vise cap, and when in operating position, it -prevents the first elevator from dropping down to normal position. -This attachment permits the assembling of a line of matrices in the -regular position and casting them in the auxiliary position. Whenever -this attachment is used, the duplex rails on the assembling elevator -must not be used. - -On all machines carrying headletter or special display molds, the -simple two-letter attachment must always be used instead of the -duplex rails. - -At the side of these special molds there is a small lug fastened to -the mold disk. This is known as a safety stop. When operating, a -machine equipped with these special molds, if the simple two-letter -attachment should not be placed in position, this safety stop would -immediately come in contact with a safety plate, fastened to the -first elevator back jaw, holding the first elevator off the vise cap -and allowing the vise automatic to stop the machine, preventing a -squirt, and damage to the first elevator jaws. - - - - -MODEL 9 - - -The Model 9 is equipped with four superimposed interchangeable -magazines, any-one of which may be instantly brought into use by -merely shifting a lever. These magazines are not interchangeable with -the No. 5 magazines. The machine is built along the same general -lines of all Linotypes and has a regular keyboard of 90 characters. - -The magazines may be changed from the front of the machine. Each -magazine is provided with escapements controlling the delivery of -the matrices. These escapements are actuated by a single series of -escapement rods mounted in a frame on the assembler front. Each -rod has four notches in its edge. Shifting the hand lever raises -or lowers the frame in which the rods are assembled and connects -their upper ends with the escapements of any one of the magazines. -This same movement connects these rods through one of the series -of notches to the keyrods which are operated by the usual keyboard -mechanism. - -Each magazine has a standard type distributing mechanism. The machine -has a primary distributor box for all the magazine through which the -matrices must pass before passing to their regular distributor. The -dropping of the matrices into their right magazines is governed by -a series of slot combinations cut in the bottom of the matrix and a -corresponding bridge placed in the primary box. A mixed line out of -any two or all four of the magazines may be set in this machine, the -matrices being separated in the primary distributor and then dropping -into their regular magazine. - - - - -TABULAR ATTACHMENTS - - -There are two attachments in common use for setting tabular -composition. These are the Chicago Lino-Tabler and the Rogers Tabular. - -The Chicago Lino-Tabler equipment can be used on any model machine -with any font of matrices from 5 point up to and including 14 point. -This equipment consists of twenty matrices, a broach, quad block and -slide for casting box rules, and special triangular-shaped brass rule -for use between columns. - -The matrices are cut to run in the vertical rule channel. In the -matrices are two small slots from which two lugs or fins are cast on -the slug. When using these matrices on the models 9, 16, 17, and 24, -the magazine in which they are to run must be designated. - -There are four styles of rule available, two hairline faces, a -one-point face, and parallel rules. The rules are held on the top -surface of the slugs, and are clamped down by bending the lugs or -fins over with a make-up rule. - -Cross rule is cast in the regular slug form from the block and slide. -Box headings or rule forms are made by using the broach which punches -small triangular notches through the top edge of the rule slug. This -permits the vertical rule to be inserted, forming a close joint. - -The Rogers Tabular can only be used on machines that are equipped -with the attachment. When using this attachment the matrices that -run in the vertical rule channel are used in the assembled line -where rules are wanted. From these matrices on the slug are cast -two slots in which the rules are inserted. All other characters are -punched .144 of an inch deeper than the standard, which necessitates -using a low mold. When changing from regular to tabular, first turn -the tabular mold into normal position; second, move lever which is -attached to the eccentric pin in the mold cam lever so it is locked -in the rear sector block. Doing so moves the mold slide forward the -difference in the thickness of the regular and low mold. Third, -loosen screw and turn eccentric bushing in pot lever half way, which -moves pot forward the distance the mold slide has been moved. Fourth, -connect one end of the return spring to the hook which is in the rear -of the machine. This spring is for the purpose of relieving the mold -cam lever of the added strain when the slug is moved from the line -after casting. It is also necessary to use the tabular spacebands, -which also can be used with standard matrices. - - - - -ADVERTISING FIGURES - - -To use the advertising figures it is necessary to have the machine -equipped with a mold, the cap of which is thicker than the standard, -also the universal knife block. When using the figures, which can -be cast at any place in the line, open the knife so the figure will -pass through without being trimmed. Leave space on the next line to -support the overhang. Close the knife so the slug will be trimmed. -The grooves in this mold being ground parallel, the slug that is not -trimmed will lock up without tipping against the one that is trimmed. - - - - -MAKING MACHINE CHANGES - - -When it is desired to change the size of type and measure on the -linotype a definite procedure should be followed. There are eight -distinct operations in making a complete change from one size to -another. By following the same order each time there is less danger -of forgetting one or more changes, which may cause damage to the -machine. Any one of the eight changes can be made independent of the -other, but the habit formed by always keeping in the same order is a -good one. - -The suggested order of changes is as follows: - - 1. Change the _mold liners_. This is done when it is desired to - change the _length_ or _thickness_ of the slug. - - 2. Change the _ejector blade_. This is done when the _length_ of - the slug is changed. A blade six points in thickness will work on - any thickness slug six points or above. - - 3. Change the side _trimming knives_. This change must be made when - the _thickness_ of the line is changed. - - 4. Change the left hand _vise jaw_. This must be changed when the - _length_ of the line is changed. - - 5. Change the _assembler slide_. This must be changed when the - _length_ of the line is changed. - - 6. Change the line delivery slide _long finger_. This must be - changed when the _length_ of the line is changed. - - 7. Change the _magazine_. This is to be changed when a different - _size_ or _font_ of type is desired. - - 8. Change the _font distinguisher_. This must be changed if the - _point size_ of matrices is changed. - - - - -CARE OF THE MACHINE - - -The following schedule of work should be performed on each machine -in a shop or school, in regular periods as indicated by the caption -under which each item is listed. - -In a school where each student is to care for a certain machine, the -various operations should be performed at a certain specified time, -all students working on the same schedule at one time. - -In a shop where machinists do this work it will be necessary to form -a regular routine including all the items of the working schedule, so -that each machine will receive its proper care at a certain specified -time. Of course it will be necessary to distribute this work so -that it will not interfere with the productive time of the machine -and so that the machinists can have time to care for the ordinary -machine troubles as they occur during the productive time. Much of -the regular care of the machines can be done by helpers outside the -hours when the operators are at work. In making such a schedule, each -machine should be listed, by number, for certain operations each -day. In this way it will be a simple matter for the head machinist -to check up on the work, for by referring to the schedule he can -determine what work should be performed on each machine for any -particular day. Of course, the schedule must vary in minor points in -various shops, due to climatic conditions. Dirt is the chief offender -in causing machine trouble, therefore the cleanliness of the building -in which the machines are located will very frequently cause a -variation in the working schedule. - -The following schedule will be found sufficient for the average -linotype and if followed efficiently, will keep the machine in “pink -of condition.” - - -DAILY OPERATIONS - -Wipe off the dust from the machine frame—the front, back, vise -frame, underneath the pot, top of magazine, etc., using a rag and -brush. With bellows or air hose, blow the dust out of the assembling -elevator, keyboard, main drive cams, and all other places not reached -with a brush, excepting the metal pot. - -Clean the mold disk. Use a brass rule and rag. Remove all metal from -the face and back of the mold, scraping the metal loose with the -brass rule and wiping with a rag. Remove all metal from behind the -mold disk. - -Wipe off the mouthpiece with a rag, and scratch out the cross vents -with a sharpened brass rule if they are filled or corroded. - -Lubricate the locking studs. Put a small amount of graphite and cup -grease mixture on the mold-disk locking studs. - -Inspect the mold wipers. Examine the front and back mold wipers; see -that they are in working condition. A small amount of graphite and -cup grease mixture should be applied to the back mold wiper. For the -front mold wiper, wet the pieces of felt in gasoline and then apply -graphite until well saturated. - -Inspect the knife wiper. See that it works freely up and down. -Straighten or replace flag, if needed. - -Inspect the pump stop lever. See that it is working. - -Inspect the vise-automatic dog. See that the vise-automatic dog -and the stop rod are free from metal and that they move without -interference. - -Apply graphite. With a very small amount of graphite on a magazine -brush, rub the following: - - 1. Line delivery channel. - - 2. First elevator jaws. - - 3. Front side of the intermediate bar in the elevator slide top - guide. - - 4. Slideway of the delivery. - - 5. Transfer-slide slideway. - - 6. Distributor-shifter slideway. - - 7. Top and front edge of the second elevator bar plate. - - 8. Second elevator upper guide. - - 9. Back and side of the second elevator lower guide. - -Clean the plunger and metal pot. Clean the plunger in the cleaning -box. Use a well-brush in the well. Open the holes on the side of the -well, using the hook of the pot mouth-wiper. Skim the dross from the -pot. - -Clean the spacebands on a smooth board, using graphite. See that no -metal adheres to the spaceband sleeve, and that the dark spot on the -sleeve is removed. - -Repair damaged matrices and spacebands. - - * * * * * - -WEEKLY OPERATIONS - -Clean the distributor screws. Also clean the bearings of all surplus -oil. - -Clean the surface of the main driving cams thoroughly. - -Test the vise-automatic. See that the vise-automatic stops the -machine if the first elevator does not descend the full distance. - -Oil the machine. Put oil in all oil holes, using it sparingly in -the places where there is not much wear. Parts subjected to heat -should have plenty of oil. Wipe off all overflow oil with a rag while -oiling. A drop or two in oil holes is sufficient for most of the -holes. The late model machines will have grease cups instead of oil -cups. If there is plenty of grease in the cup, give it a turn. Put a -small amount of dry graphite in the various slideways. - -Note—While oiling give the machine a good general inspection. Watch -for any loose parts or loose screws. - -Test assembler measures. - -Examine star wheel. Replace if necessary. - -Polish magazines. - -Measure thickness and height of slugs. - - * * * * * - -MONTHLY OPERATIONS - -Clean the magazine and matrices. - -Take out all matrices which have the lugs sheared or damaged too much -for good use. - -Take a matrix proof. This is done by running out all the matrices of -each character and casting them on a slug. Then take a proof. - -Remove the main driving clutch, and clean the inner surface of the -pulley and the leather buffers on the clutch shoes. - -Clean the surface of the keyboard rollers with soap and water. -Sandpaper them if needed. - -Examine gas burners. Clean if necessary. - -Clean assembler plate and slide. - -Clean distributor box. - -Clean and dress commutator. - -Clean magnetic thermometer contact points on electric pots. - - - - -MECHANICAL TERMS - - -Adjusting Screw—A screw for taking up wear, or for shifting the -position of some movable piece. - -Bushing—(1) A lining, usually of metal, for a hole. (2) A tube for -insertion into an opening to reduce the effective diameter. - -Cam—A non-circular or eccentric rotating piece, often of irregular -outline and giving motion that is irregular in direction, rate, or -time. - -Clutch—A power-transmitting device operating by friction or -interlocking, for securing or breaking rotative continuity, as -between two shafts or a pulley and a shaft. - -Collar—An annular enlargement of a shaft or axle, usually at or near -the end. - -Cotter Pin—A split pin for insertion in the slot of a bolt to prevent -it being drawn. - -Detent—A stop or checking device, as a pin, lever, etc. - -Dowel—A pin or peg, usually cylindrical, for joining together two -adjacent parts. - -Escapement—A mechanical device used for securing a uniform movement. - -Gear—Any set of appliances as of cog wheels, serving to transmit -motion. - -Gib—A wedge-shaped or other piece of metal that holds another in -place or presses two pieces together. - -Link—Any intermediate rod or piece for transmitting force or motion, -especially a short connecting rod with a bearing at each end. - -Pawl—A hinged or pivoted piece, having a point, edge, or hook made -to engage with ratchet teeth, as for driving a rachet-wheel, or -preventing reverse motion; a click, detent, or ratchet. - -Pinion—A toothed wheel driving or driven by a large cog wheel. - -Segment—A geared wheel, cam, or pulley, the outline or efficient -working surface of which is a section of the whole circle. - -Slide—A sliding part of a machine or implement. - -Slideway—A lengthwise bearing on which a piece may slide. - -Stud—(1) A pin having a large round head. (2) A short bolt having a -shoulder. - -Turnbuckle—A form of coupling so threaded or swiveled that when -connecting lengthwise two metal rods, it may be turned so as to -regulate the length or tension of the connected parts. - - - - -THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW - - -Do not forget to form a regular schedule for the care of the machine. - -Model 5 magazines are interchangeable with models 4, 8, 14, 18, 19, -and 14-s-k. - -When using any font over 14-point it is necessary to have the machine -equipped with headletter or special advertising figure attachment. - -Advertising figures can only be cast on machines that have the -universal knife block. - -For two-line advertising figures, use 14-point figures with 6-point -type; 18-point figures with 8-point type; 24-point figures with -10-point type. - -To pull out mold slide on machine equipped with universal mold slide, -disconnect the link from the lever. - -Do not open the vise when the mold slide is forward on the locking -studs. - -Hair lines are usually caused by a collection of metal on the -spacebands, breaking the walls of the matrix. - -Removing metal from the first elevator with a screwdriver will damage -the elevator. - -Heating metal on the mold or disk with a burner will ruin the mold or -disk. - -Without disconnecting the connecting link the vise can not be lowered -to the second position unless the first elevator is resting on the -vise cap. When lowering, pull out on the slide to prevent breaking -the eyebolt. - -Eleven-point is the largest font that can be used in the model “K.” - -Oil on the buffers will cause the main friction clutch to slip. - -The assembler slide brake pawl is for the purpose of loosening a -tight line so as to remove a matrix from the assembling elevator, not -to put in one more. - -When metal gets into the mold cap screw in the mold disk after a -squirt, do not hammer the metal with a screwdriver. To do so merely -drives the metal tighter in the threads of the screw hole. Gouge the -metal out with a knife a little at a time. - -Most machine troubles are caused by dirt. Keep the machine clean. - -Do not change adjustments every time something goes wrong. Be sure -you _know_ what is wrong before attempting to fix a trouble. Trace -all troubles to their source before attempting a remedy. - -One important point that should be watched is that in oiling any -part of the machine which comes in contact with the matrices, no oil -should be allowed to accumulate where it is liable to find its way on -to the matrices. - -Clean the machine whenever necessary—otherwise let it alone. Be sure -that any new inventions of your own are good before applying them. Do -not take off parts unnecessarily. The less you dismantle a machine, -the more success you will have with it. But keep it clean. - -A large number of matrices and spacebands are lost by being swept -up with the metal around the machine, and thrown in the remelting -furnace. Matrices should always be picked up when dropped. A good -plan is to have the person who sweeps up the metal to throw it in -a special pile. It is very easy then for someone to look through -the pile carefully, under good light, and find the matrices and -spacebands that have been overlooked while sweeping. Matrices which -have gone through a remelting furnace are usually no good for further -use. - -Small job fonts can be used conveniently and economically on any -class of job work where only a few lines of display are required -or in recasting for duplicate forms. These small job fonts may be -carried in special trays and they can be procured either to run pi or -run in the regular or auxiliary magazine. - -Brass hair spaces, very thin spaces, grading in .001 of an inch -from .007 to .024 can be obtained. These spaces do not run in the -magazine, but drop in the tray under the second elevator transfer. -They are very handy for closely-spaced lines or for lines where it is -desired to letterspace. - -The machine may be driven from any shaft having a uniform speed of -rotation or by individual motor. A machine requires one-fourth horse -power but a motor slightly in excess of this should be used. These -motors can be belt driven or connected directly to the machine by -gear. The speed of the machine should be uniform at all times, for -fluctuations will interfere with the operation and tend to reduce the -output and cause machine troubles. - -To ascertain the size of the pulley required on the driving shaft, -multiply the diameter of the main driving pulley on the machine -(14½”) by the number of revolutions desired and divide the product by -the revolutions of the driving (or motor) shaft. The quotient will be -the diameter of the pulley required. - - - - -MICROMETER CALIPER - - -The chief mechanical principle embodied in the construction of a -micrometer is that of a screw free to move in a fixed nut. The -spindle of the micrometer is attached to the thimble at the top -point, and extends downward through the inside of the sleeve; the -thimble extending downward on the outside of the sleeve. The part of -the spindle, which is concealed within the sleeve and thimble, is -threaded to fit a nut in the frame of the micrometer. The pitch of -the screw threads on the concealed part of the spindle are 40 to the -inch. Therefore one complete revolution of the spindle draws it back -1/40, or .025, of an inch. - -The sleeve is marked with 40 lines to the inch, corresponding to the -number of threads on the spindle. When the spindle is down against -the anvil, the beveled edge of the thimble coincides with the lone -0 on the sleeve, and the 0 line on the thimble coincides with the -horizontal line on the sleeve. By turning the knurled thimble with -the thumb and finger until the 0 line on the thimble again agrees -with the horizontal line on the sleeve, the distance between the -anvil and the bottom point of the spindle will be 1/40, or .025 of -an inch, and the beveled edge of the thimble will coincide with the -second vertical line on the sleeve. Each vertical line on the sleeve -indicates a distance of 1/40, or .025 of an inch. Every fourth line -on the sleeve is made longer than the others, and is numbered 0, -1, 2, 3, 4, etc., up to 0 or the capacity of the micrometer. Each -numbered line indicates a distance of four times 1/40 of an inch, or -1/10. - -The beveled edge of the thimble is marked in twenty-five divisions, -and every fifth line is numbered from 0 to 25. Turning the spindle -from one of these marks to the next indicates that the spindle has -been moved 1/25 of .025, or one-thousandth of an inch. - -Hold the frame stationary and revolve the thimble with the thumb and -finger. The spindle, being attached to the thimble, revolves with -it, and moves through the nut in the frame, approaching or receding -from the anvil. The measurement of the opening between the anvil and -the spindle is shown by the lines and figures on the sleeve and the -thimble. - -To read the micrometer, place the object to be measured on the anvil, -turning the thimble up or down until it touches the object lightly. -Multiply the amount of vertical divisions visible on the sleeve by 25 -and add the number of divisions on the bevel of the thimble from 0 to -the line which coincides with the horizontal line on the sleeve. - -For example, if there are 5 divisions visible on the sleeve and six -lines showing on the thimble, multiply 5 by 25, and add 6. Total .131 -of an inch. - - - - -THE POINT SYSTEM - - -Some time prior to the year 1450 Gutenberg invented the casting -of metal type in molds. As the art of printing advanced, many new -sizes were cast, but no attempt was made to cast them with a uniform -gradation in size and it was difficult to build up one size of body -to equal another; that is, justify them. - -To obviate this, Fournier, in 1737, advocated a method of casting -type according to some unit. The size known as pica was in use in -various countries in Europe, and was considered a standard size. -Taking the pica as a basis he divided it into twelve parts, each of -which he called a point. He chose one-twelfth of a pica as the unit -because there existed five sizes of type between pica and nonpareil. -As nonpareil was just half the size of pica, this made the succession -of sizes seven, eight, nine, ten, and eleven points, any of which -could be justified with another by the use of material made to the -same unit. - -The United States Typefounders’ Association finally adopted it in -1887. It is the only system in use in first-class offices today. - -It is popularly supposed that six picas equal one inch. This is -approximately so, but not absolutely, for six picas measure but -.99648 of an inch. The American pica runs about three points less -than 72 lines to the foot. Its actual measurement is .16608 of an -inch. One-twelfth of this, or one point, is, therefore .01384 of an -inch. - -When calculating the amount of type contained in any piece of -composed matter, it is measured up in ems, and this em, or unit, is -the em of the body. - -The square of each size of type is called the em of that body. Thus, -the em of six-point is six points square; the em of eight-point is -eight points square; and so on. - - - EMS TO RUNNING INCH - - In estimating the amount of matter set, the following table of - type measurement will be found useful. It shows the number of ems - in a running inch, in columns from 10 to 30 picas wide, in seven - different sizes of type. The figures across the top denote the - width of page or column in picas, and the figures below denote the - number of ems to the column inch in the various sizes designated in - the column to the left. - - - WIDTH OF COLUMNS IN PICAS - - ========+====+====+====+====+====+====+====+====+====+====+==== - | 10| 11| 12| 13| 14| 15| 16| 17| 18| 19| 20 - --------+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+---- - 6 point| 240| 264| 288| 312| 336| 360| 384| 408| 432| 456| 480 - 7 point| 177| 194| 212| 229| 247| 265| 282| 300| 318| 335| 353 - 8 point| 135| 148| 162| 175| 189| 202| 216| 229| 243| 256| 270 - 9 point| 107| 117| 128| 139| 149| 160| 171| 181| 192| 203| 213 - 10 point| 86| 95| 104| 112| 121| 129| 138| 147| 155| 164| 173 - 11 point| 71| 79| 86| 93| 100| 107| 114| 121| 128| 136| 143 - 12 point| 60| 66| 72| 78| 84| 90| 96| 102| 108| 114| 120 - ========+=====+====+====+===+====+====+====+====+====+====+==== - - ========+====+====+====+====+====+====+====+====+====+==== - | 21| 22| 23| 24| 25| 26| 27| 28| 29| 30 - --------+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+---- - 6 point| 504| 528| 552| 576| 600| 624| 648| 672| 696| 720 - 7 point| 371| 388| 406| 424| 441| 459| 477| 494| 512| 529 - 8 point| 283| 297| 310| 324| 337| 351| 364| 378| 391| 405 - 9 point| 224| 235| 246| 256| 267| 277| 288| 299| 309| 320 - 10 point| 181| 190| 199| 207| 216| 225| 233| 242| 250| 259 - 11 point| 150| 157| 164| 171| 178| 185| 192| 200| 207| 214 - 12 point| 126| 132| 138| 144| 150| 156| 162| 168| 174| 180 - ========+====+====+====+====+====+====+====+====+====+==== - #/ - - - - -TEST QUESTIONS - - -LIST NO. I - - 1. Describe the keyboard and magazine escapement action on models 5 - and 8. - - 2. How is the rubber roll taken out and cleaned? Why does the - rubber roll shaft have a friction drive? - - 3. How are the keyboard cam frames taken off? - - 4. How are the keyboard cams cleaned and oiled? - - 5. Describe how to take a keyboard off and clean it? Explain in - detail. - - 6. How is a single cam taken out on an old style keyboard cam yoke - frame? - - 7. How is a single cam taken out on the new style keyboard cam yoke - frame? - - 8. What should be done to the triggers before replacing the cam - frame? Explain why. - - 9. State the causes of more than one matrix dropping, or “running - away.” - - 10. What are the causes of matrices failing to respond to the touch - of the keys? - - -LIST NO. II - - 11. How is a verge on a Model 5 removed and a new one put in? On a - Model 8? - - 12. What operations are gone through to change a magazine on a - Model 5? A Model 8? Give them in the proper order. How to change the - middle magazine on a Model 8? - - 13. How is the matrix belt adjusted? What is the difference between - the matrix delivery belts on the different models? - - 14. What adjustments should be made on the assembling elevator, the - assembler slide brake and the chute spring? - - 15. What is the purpose of the assembler star wheel friction? What - must be done to keep it working properly? - - 16. What gives the line-delivery slide its motion when delivering a - line? What controls the speed and how is it adjusted? - - 17. What releases the line-delivery slide? How is it adjusted? - - 18. What returns the line-delivery slide to normal position? How is - it adjusted on both old and new styles? - - 19. How is the line-delivery slide adjusted when delivering a line? - - 20. What is meant by “cleaning spacebands,” and how should they be - cleaned? - - -LIST NO. III - - 21. Explain how a spaceband is constructed? How should a spaceband - be placed in a line. Why? - - 22. How is the spaceband box removed? Explain in detail. - - 23. What will cause spacebands not to respond? - - 24. How do the spaceband box pawls get their motion to release the - spacebands? Explain in detail. - - 25. How are the spaceband box pawls adjusted? - - 26. What prevents the release of two spacebands at one time? How is - it adjusted? - - 27. Describe how the thermostat controls the temperature of the - metal, and how it is adjusted. - - 28. Describe how the metal is heated in an electric pot. How is the - heat controlled in the various heating units of an electric pot? - - 29. What care does the electric pot and controller require? - - 30. What care does the mold require? How would you replace the mold - in the disk after having it off? - - -LIST NO. IV - - 31. At what temperature should the metal be kept? - - 32. What happens when too much metal is in the pot? - - 33. What does a slug show when the metal is too hot? - - 34. What does the slug show when the metal is too cold? - - 35. What does a smooth, bright bottom on a slug indicate? - - 36. What are some of the causes of a defective face? - - 37. How should the mouthpiece be cared for? - - 38. How is the mouthpiece removed on the wedge style crucible? - Screw style models? - - 39. How is a “stuck” plunger taken out and cleaned? - - 40. How is the metal pot adjusted? Give all adjustments. - - -LIST NO. V - - 41. Explain the gas pressure controller. - - 42. Explain thoroughly the care of the gas burner. - - 43. What will cause matrix ears to bend in the distributor box? - - 44. How is the distributor box lift adjusted? - - 45. What causes matrices to clog in the distributor box and how are - they removed? - - 46. What will cause two matrices to lift at one time in the - distributor box? - - 47. What will cause matrices to fall in the wrong channel of the - magazine, and what is the remedy? - - 48. Describe the mechanism which drives the distributor screws? - - 49. Explain the construction and action of the distributor spiral - automatic. - - 50. How is the first elevator adjusted? Give all the adjustments. - - -LIST NO. VI - - 51. How is the first elevator connecting link constructed? How is - it adjusted, and what is the object of the adjustment? - - 52. What is the purpose of the pump stop? Explain the action and - adjustment of the pump stop. - - 53. What is the purpose of the first elevator line stop? How is - it replaced and adjusted? - - 54. Explain the construction of the first elevator two-letter jaws, - and how it sometimes prevents the elevator going high enough to - allow the line to transfer after having a squirt. - - 55. How should the metal be removed from the first elevator jaw - after having a squirt? - - 56. What part of the first elevator should be kept perfectly clean - and free from oil? - - 57. What action has the recasting block on the first elevator? - - 58. Describe how a one-letter line is recast. - - 59. Describe how a two-letter line is recast. - - 60. What trouble would be caused by the first elevator slide not - being adjusted to properly align with the transfer and delivery - channels? - - -LIST NO. VII - - 61. What adjustments are there for the second elevator? - - 62. What would cause the second elevator to be held at the - distributor? - - 63. When the second elevator does not descend, what causes the - machine to stop? - - 64. Give the adjustments of the elevator transfer slide. - - 65. What is the releasing lever for in the first elevator slide - guide, and how is it adjusted? - - 66. What is the object of the intermediate bar pawl? - - 67. How may the movement of the transfer and spaceband levers be - interfered with? - - 68. How does locking the spaceband transfer lever stop the machine? - - 69. How does the spaceband transfer lever get its motion and how is - it adjusted? - - 70. When does the automatic safety pawl act? - - -LIST NO. VIII - - 71. Describe the method and order that should be followed in making - a complete change of the machine from one size to another. - - 72. How are the mold liners marked to distinguish size? - - 73. How is the ejector blade held in place? - - 74. What will cause a slug to be pushed out of a galley when being - ejected? - - 75. What is the purpose of the buffer spring in the ejector slide? - - 76. What is the ejector-blade guide for, and what care does it - require? - - 77. What makes a slug higher on one end than on the other? - - 78. How is the back knife adjusted? Explain in detail. - - 79. How is a micrometer read? - - 80. What is “type high”? - - -LIST NO. IX - - 81. Explain in detail how the trimming knives are adjusted. - - 82. What causes slugs to be off their feet, or lift, when - locking-up? - - 83. What part of an inch is a type founders point? What part of an - inch is a linotype point? - - 84. How are the decimal points of a slug found? - - 85. When can the vise be opened to first position? - - 86. When can the vise be opened to second position? - - 87. Explain the construction of the main friction clutch. - - 88. How is the collar connected to the clutch rod? - - 89. What is the difference between the new and the old style clutch - adjustment? - - 90. How is the main driving clutch adjusted? Give the seven - adjustments affecting the clutch. - - -LIST NO. X - - 91. In what position should the starting lever be when making the - adjustments on the friction clutch? - - 92. What care should be given to the main friction clutch? - - 93. How can you determine when the clutch is slipping? - - 94. Give causes for the slipping of the clutch, and how you would - remedy them. - - 95. What is the action of the automatic safety pawl when striking - the upper stopping lever, and how does it effect the clutch to stop - the machine? - - 96. State the purpose of the vise automatic, and tell how it is - adjusted. - - 97. How is the vise automatic adjustment tested? - - 98. How are the matrix toes sheared when the vise automatic is out - of adjustment? - - 99. How is the mold slide adjusted? Give all adjustments. - - 100. Describe the machine action from the time a line is in the - assembling elevator until it has been distributed. - - - - -MECHANISM CLASS SCHEDULE - -(_Lesson Index_) - - -The following class schedule was designed for one-hour class periods. -It has been found from experience that the lessons may be covered in -approximately one-hour class periods, except No. 20. Additional study -of each lesson will be found profitable where time permits. - - PAGES - - 1. Keyboard, construction and action; taking off keyboard - cam frames; cleaning and oiling keyboard cams, 3-10 - - 2. Taking off keyboard; taking apart and cleaning, 10-12 - - 3. Keyrods, escapements, magazines of various models, 12-25 - - 4. Assembling elevator, assembler, assembler slide, - assembler slide brake, 25-33 - - 5. Spaceband box; delivery slide, 33-42 - - 6. Metal pot, mouthpiece, metal pot adjustments, 42-52 - - 7. Pot lever; gasoline and gas burners; pressure, - mercury, and thermostat governors, 52-61 - - 8. Electric pot, 61-68 - - 9. Molds, 68-73 - - 10. Distributor bar, channel entrance, distributor screws, distributor - clutch plate and stopping bar, distributor clutch; - construction of spiral automatic, 73-80 - - 11. Distributor box; matrix lift cam, 80-87 - - 12. First elevator slide and adjustments; first elevator jaws; - construction of the connecting link, 87-94 - - 13. Second elevator and adjustments; main cams, 94-98 - - 14. First elevator slide guide; transfer slide adjustments; - spaceband lever, pawl, and turnbuckle, 98-101 - - 15. Mold slide; lever and slide; mold disk locking studs and - blocks; ejector slide and blade; universal ejector, 101-107 - - 16. Mold knife adjustments; adjustments of trimming - knives; knife wiper, 107-114 - - 17. Mold gear arm; mold turning cam; square block; justification - levers; vise, vise jaws, pump stop, 114-122 - - 18. Driving shaft, friction clutch and adjustments, vertical - lever, upper and lower stopping levers, automatic stopping - and safety pawls, stay bolt, 122-127 - - 19. Vise automatic; filling piece and safety lug, 127-130 - - 20. Dismantling and reassembling, under the supervision of - the instructor - - - - -_Index_ - - - PAGE - - Adjustable Mold, 36-em, 71 - - Advertising Figures, 132 - - Advertising Mold, 70 - - Assembler, 28 - - Assembler Slide, 31 - - Assembler Slide Brake, 31 - - Assembler Troubles, 33 - - Assembling Elevator, 25 - - Assembling Elevator, to Take Off, 28 - - Auxiliary Lever, 93 - - Auxiliary Magazines, 21 - - - Burner, Gas, 55 - - Burner, Gasoline, 55 - - Banking Strips, Mold, 109 - - - Cams, Main, 95 - - Carbolite Mold, 71 - - Care of Electric Metal Pot, 65 - - Care of the Machine, 133 - - Causes of Bad Assembling, 33 - - Channel Entrance, 74 - - Chute Spring, 28 - - Class Schedule, Mechanism, 149 - - Cleaning a Magazine, 23 - - Cleaning Matrices, 24 - - Cleaning the Throat of Crucible, 44 - - Connecting Link, First Elevator Slide, 92 - - Cracked Crucible, 44 - - Current Consumption, 67 - - - Display Molds, 70 - - Distributor, 73 - - Distributor Bar, 73 - - Distributor Box, 80 - - Distributor Box, Lower, Models 2 and 4, 83 - - Distributor Box, to Remove, 87 - - Distributor Box Matrix Lift Cam, 84 - - Distributor Clutch, 76 - - Distributor Screws, 75 - - Distributor Screw Guard, 76 - - Distributor Spiral Automatic, 78 - - Distributor Stopping Mechanism, 77 - - Distributor Troubles, 84 - - Duplex Rails, 26 - - Duplex Rail Operating Blocks, 99 - - - Ejector Blade, 105 - - Ejector Blade, to Change, 105 - - Ejector Guide Block, 105 - - Ejector Slide, 104 - - Ejector, the Universal, 106 - - Electric Metal Pot, Care of, 65 - - Electric Pot, 62 - - Electric Pot Definitions, 61 - - Elevator, Second, 94 - - Ems to Running Inch, 142 - - Escapement Mechanism, 14 - - - Facts and Suggestions About Trimming Knives, 112 - - Failure of Matrices to Respond (See Keyboard Troubles), 7 - - Failure of Matrices to Respond (due to Troubles Above the Keyboard), - 23 - - Filling Piece, First Elevator, 130 - - First Elevator Jaws, 90 - - First Elevator Jaws and Slide, 87 - - First Elevator Jaw Line Stop, 92 - - First Elevator Slide Connecting Link 92 - - First Elevator Slide Guide, 98 - - Friction Clutch, 122 - - Friction Clutch Adjustments, 123 - - Friction Clutch Hints, 126 - - Fuses, 68 - - - Gas Burner, 55 - - Gas Burners, to Remove, 58 - - Gas Pot Hints, 57 - - Gasoline Burner, 55 - - Governor, Mercury Gas, 59 - - Governor, Pressure, 58 - - Governor, Thermostat Gas, 59 - - - Headletter Mold, 70 - - Hints, Friction Clutch, 126 - - Hints, Gas Pot, 57 - - Hints, Magazine, 24 - - Hints, Mold, 72 - - - Justification Levers, 118 - - - Keyboard, 3 - - Keyboard, to Take Apart, 10 - - Keyboard Parts, 4 - - Keyboard Cams, Cleaning the, 9 - - Keyboard Cams and Parts, 4 - - Keyboard Cam, to Remove, 6 - - Keyboard Cam Frames, to Remove, 9 - - Keyboard Layout, 9 - - Keyboard Rubber Rolls, 6 - - Keyboard Troubles, 7 - - Keyrods, 12 - - Keyrods, Auxiliary, 13 - - Knife Block, 109 - - Knife Block, Wedge Style, 111 - - Knife, Mold, 107 - - Knife Spring Plate, 111 - - Knife Wiper, 113 - - Knife Wiper, Old Style, 114 - - Knives, Trimming, 109 - - - Line Delivery Slide, 39 - - Line Stop, First Elevator Jaw, 92 - - Locking Studs and Blocks, 104 - - Magazines, 15 - - Magazines, Auxiliary, 21 - - Magazines and Escapements, 14 - - Magazine, Cleaning a, 23 - - Magazine Channel Entrance, 74 - - Magazine Hints, 24 - - Magazines, Split, 21 - - Magazine, Removing a, 18 - - Magazines, Removing, New Models, 8 and 14-s-k, 20 - - Main Cams, 95 - - Making Machine Changes, 132 - - Matrix Carrier Belt, 32 - - Matrices, Cleaning, 24 - - Mechanism Class Schedule, 149 - - Mechanical Terms, 136 - - Mercury Gas Governor, 59 - - Metal Pot, 42 - - Metal Pot Adjustments, 49 - - Metal Pot Plunger, 42 - - Metal Pot, Removing a, 54 - - Micrometer Caliper, 140 - - Model K, 22 - - Model L, 22 - - Model 14, Single Keyboard, 13 - - Model 9, 130 - - Molds, 68 - - Mold, Universal Adjustable, 69 - - Mold, Recessed, 69 - - Mold, Display and Headletter, 70 - - Mold, Advertising, 70 - - Mold, Carbolite, 71 - - Mold, 36-em Adjustable, 71 - - Mold Turning Cam Adjusting Shoes, 115 - - Mold Banking Strips, 109 - - Mold Disk Locking Studs and Blocks, 104 - - Mold Driving Shaft Friction Clamp, 116 - - Mold Gears, Retiming, 116 - - Mold Hints, 72 - - Mold Knife, 107 - - Mold, Removing and Replacing, 73 - - Mold Slide, 101 - - Mold Turning Cam, Square Block, and Pinion, 114 - - Mold Wipers, 71 - - Mouthpieces, 45 - - Mouthpiece, to Remove a, 47 - - - Plunger, Metal Pot, 42 - - Pressure Governor, 58 - - Point System, 141 - - Pot, Electric, 62 - - Pot Lever, 52 - - Pot Returning Cam Shoe, 53 - - Pump Stop, 121 - - - Questions, Test, 143 - - - Recessed Mold, 69 - - Releasing Lever, 99 - - Removing a Pot, 54 - - Removing a Magazine, 18 - - Removing a Magazine, New Model 8 and 14-s-k, 20 - - Retiming Mold Gears, 116 - - - Safety Lug, Mold Disk, 130 - - Second Elevator Safety Catch, 95 - - Second Elevator, 94 - - Second Elevator Starting Spring, 95 - - Slug Troubles, 54 - - Spacebands, the, 33 - - Spaceband Box, 35 - - Spaceband Box, to Remove, 36 - - Spaceband Box Pawls, to Replace, 38 - - Spaceband Box Pawls and Rails, 38 - - Spaceband Lever, 100 - - Spaceband Lever Pawl, 101 - - Spaceband Troubles, 37 - - Spiral Automatic, 78 - - Split Magazines, 21 - - Spring Plate, Knife, 111 - - Stay Bolt, 127 - - Star Wheel, 29 - - Stuck Slug, Removing a, 107 - - - Tabular Attachment, 131 - - Test Questions, 143 - - Things You Should Know, 138 - - Transfer Slide, 99 - - Trimming Knives, Facts and Suggestions, 112 - - Trimming Knives, 109 - - Troubles, Distributor, 84 - - Troubles, Slug, 54 - - Thermostat Gas Governor, 59 - - Throat and Mouthpiece Heaters (Electric), 64 - - - Universal Adjustable Mold, 69 - - Universal Ejector, 106 - - - Verge, to Remove a, 23 - - Vise, the, 119 - - Vise Automatic, 127 - - Vise Jaws, 121 - - Vise Justification, 118 - - - - - Transcriber’s Notes - - pg 13 Changed: On the later models 1 - to: On the later model 1 - pg 26 Changed: there is assembled in the front - to: there are assembled in the front - pg 28 Changed: pull the gib off dowel pins - to: pull the gib off dowel the pins - pg 30 Changed: remove the chute spring, if the new style, release - to: removing the chute spring, if the new style, releasing - pg 32 Changed: the operating lever when raised - to: the operating lever, when raised - pg 33 Changed: properly, worn detaining plates. - to: properly, or worn detaining plates. - pg 33 Changed: bind; assembler slide worn or dirty - to: bind; or assembler slide worn or dirty - pg 40 Added period after: elevator is raised to send in a line - pg 49 Changed: lips of the crucible, by driving - to: lips of the crucible by driving - pg 51 Changed plunger pin has been removed, to prevent accidentaly - to: accidentally - pg 57 Changed The hole can be peaned to: peened - pg 63 Changed controlled by an adjustable dynamic therometer - to: thermometer - pg 68 Changed have a flexibility that requires a varitey to: variety - pg 70 Changed The cap is construsted to: constructed - pg 70 Changed The groves in the cap to: grooves - pg 75 Added the word “the” to: screws are in front of “the” - distributor - pg 81 Changed drawn out a little by peaning to: peening - pg 84 Changed annoyance and lost time is causd to: caused - pg 91 Changed The duplex rail sometimes become to: becomes - pg 106 Changed starting and stopping lever and is conected - to: connected - pg 108 Changed: is should scrape the lead from the mold. - to: it should scrape the lead from the mold. - pg 109 Changed allows for a range form to: from - pg 112 Changed adjustment if dirt or gum interfers to: interferes - pg 115 Removed repeated word from: cam and bank against the the shoes. - pg 129 Changed forced out of action by the vise matic to: automatic - pg 130 Changed interchangeable magazines, any-one to: any one - pg 131 Changed operated by the usual keyboard machanism to: mechanism - pg 135 Changed Test the vice-automatic to: vise-automatic. - pg 139 Changed Do not change adjustments everytime to: every time - pg 140 Changed The speed of the machine should be uniform at all tims - to: times - pg 140 Changed for flucuations will interfere to: fluctuations - pg 143 Removed extra quote from: one matrix dropping, - or ‘“running away.” - pg 143 Changed gone through to change a magzine to: magazine - pg 143 Changed: How are the rubber roll taken out - to: How is the rubber roll taken out - pg 143 Changed: How change the middle magazine - to: How to change the middle magazine - pg 144 Changed: How adjusted on both old and new styles - to: How is it adjusted on both old and new styles - pg 145 Changed: How replaced and adjusted - to: How is it replaced and adjusted - pg 145 Changed What does a smoth, bright bottom on a slug indicate - to: smooth - pg 145 Changed Explain throughly the care of the gas burner. - to: thoroughly - pg 151 Added word the to: keylevers; the keybar banking bar - Normalized spelling of vice to vise throughout book. - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LINOTYPE MECHANISM *** - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the -United States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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