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+<html lang="en">
+<head>
+ <meta charset="UTF-8">
+ <title>
+ The Private Journal of Judge-Advocate Larpent | Project Gutenberg
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+<body>
+<div style='text-align:center'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 75413 ***</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 85%">
+<img src="images/cover.jpg" alt="Cover">
+</div>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h1>
+<span class="fs70">THE</span><br>
+<br>
+<span class="fs90">PRIVATE JOURNAL</span><br>
+<br>
+<span class="fs70">OF</span><br>
+<br>
+JUDGE-ADVOCATE LARPENT,</h1>
+<br>
+<p class="center no-indent fs80 wsp">ATTACHED TO THE HEAD-QUARTERS OF</p>
+<br>
+<p class="center no-indent wsp">LORD WELLINGTON DURING THE PENINSULAR WAR,</p>
+<br>
+<p class="center no-indent fs80 wsp">FROM 1812 TO ITS CLOSE.</p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<p class="center no-indent fs80">EDITED</p>
+
+<p class="center no-indent wsp"><span class="smcap">By</span> SIR GEORGE LARPENT, <span class="smcap">Bart.</span></p>
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<p class="center no-indent fs90 wsp"><em>THIRD EDITION.</em></p>
+<br>
+
+<p class="center no-indent wsp">LONDON:<br>
+RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET,<br>
+<span class="fs80 bold">Publisher in Ordinary to Her Majesty.</span></p>
+
+<p class="center no-indent fs80">MDCCCLIV.</p>
+
+<hr class="r25">
+
+<p class="center no-indent fs70"><em>The Author and Publisher reserve to themselves the right of Translating this Work.</em>
+</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_iii">[Pg iii]</span></p>
+<p class="center no-indent fs70 wsp">LONDON: W. CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="PREFACE">PREFACE<br>
+<span class="fs70">TO THE SECOND EDITION.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="r5">
+
+<p class="no-indent">It has been very gratifying to me to witness the flattering
+manner in which this Journal has been received by
+the Public, and, with one exception, by the several
+writers who have noticed it.</p>
+
+<p>As my own part in the Work is so small, the risk I
+ran in publishing it was small in proportion; but I
+confess that I did feel anxious not to damage the fair
+fame of my late brother.</p>
+
+<p>The exception to which I allude is that of the Reviewer
+in the “Athenæum,” a paper which (having
+been a subscriber to it for many years) I hold in high
+estimation.</p>
+
+<p>The writer must pardon me for observing (whilst fully
+admitting his right to state his conscientious opinion of
+the work itself), that the sneers at Mr. Larpent’s having
+been Fifth Wrangler, and at his <em>slow</em> progress at the
+Bar, are strangely misplaced. Surely a person attached
+to literature cannot seriously deprecate academic honours,
+or deny their <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">primâ facie</i> evidence of ability. And as
+for the <em>slow</em> progress in the laborious pursuit of the law,
+the Reviewer must have been aware that such has been
+the fortune of many eminent Lawyers who have afterwards<span class="pagenum" id="Page_iv">[Pg iv]</span>
+risen to the highest honours of the profession.
+Legal or political connexions, or a fortunate opportunity
+of displaying latent talents, are in truth the chief causes
+of rapid success at the Bar. None of these did my
+brother possess or obtain.</p>
+
+<p>Is it not, therefore, somewhat severe to argue from
+this admission of mine, that he was a person not above
+mediocrity, and to represent him as merely a respectable
+sort of second-rate plodding official? The writer in the
+“Athenæum” may have had peculiar opportunities of
+judging, and it is not for me to contest the opinion
+he may have thus formed, but it certainly was not the
+opinion of my brother’s contemporaries. The observations
+of the writer in the “Athenæum” involve also
+charges of more importance than his remarks upon my
+brother’s abilities—</p>
+
+<p>“We see,” he says, “in the sweeping and unqualified
+charges against the soldiers of England, Scotland, and
+Ireland, the censorious habits of one who filled the post
+of Judge-Advocate General, and the passage,” he adds,
+“comes with bad grace from one who narrates his own
+discomforts <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">ad nauseam</i>.”</p>
+
+<p>I had allowed every passage to stand which expressed
+the opinion of the Author upon public matters, nor did I
+expunge those complaints of personal inconveniences
+which a man, for the first time placed in my brother’s
+situation, naturally feels, and as naturally describes in
+his letters to his family.</p>
+
+<p>It has been too much the fashion to garble such
+Journals to suit the public taste; but my aim was to
+give the truth, and the whole truth, of all that my
+brother witnessed and described in his Journal.</p>
+
+<p>This rather uncommon fidelity is, I believe, one of the
+chief merits of the work, and one of the chief causes of
+its success.</p>
+
+<p>If my brother, in commenting upon the want of selfcontrol<span class="pagenum" id="Page_v">[Pg v]</span>
+and irregular habits and propensities of the
+British soldiery (defects which the Duke’s own Despatches,
+his proclamation upon the retreat from Burgos,
+and the uniform testimony of the writers upon the
+Peninsular War unfortunately confirm), had omitted to
+notice their many redeeming qualities, he might have
+been partly open to the rebuke of the writer alluded to;
+but throughout his narrative Mr. Larpent bears the
+strongest testimony to the undaunted courage, the immoveable
+steadiness of the British soldiers under the
+severest fire, and the perfect reliance the Duke always
+placed upon the bravery of his army.</p>
+
+<p>The truth is, that the conscription in France forced
+into the ranks of its army a more intelligent and more
+intellectual class of persons than those who volunteered
+into our service.</p>
+
+<p>Thus the moral conduct of the French soldier was
+perhaps more correct; but the stubborn courage, the
+<em>pluck</em>, if I may use such an expression, of the British
+soldier, guided by officers taken from the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">élite</i> of our
+gentry, and almost fastidiously alive to the sense of
+honour and of duty, enabled them in the Peninsula, at
+Waterloo, and wherever British troops have been called
+into action, to maintain a decided superiority over their
+opponents.</p>
+
+<p>It has been remarked, that I have never mentioned
+the lady to whom these Letters were addressed.</p>
+
+<p>She was my much honoured and loved mother; but I
+deprived myself of the pleasure of noticing her many
+excellent qualities, lest it should be thought that, in
+praising her, I sought to confer credit upon myself, or to
+gratify my own vanity.</p>
+
+<p>She was the daughter of Sir James Porter, in his day
+a distinguished diplomatist, successively employed in the
+Netherlands and Germany, and for many years ambassador
+to the Ottoman Porte. She married my father<span class="pagenum" id="Page_vi">[Pg vi]</span>
+when my brother was very young, and became a second
+mother to him. There never was the slightest distinction
+between him and her own children, and had we not
+been told that we were by different mothers, we should
+never have known the fact from her conduct. That she
+possessed my brother’s warmest affections, these letters
+would have abundantly shown, had I not thought it
+better to omit many passages, which, however gratifying
+to her to whom they were addressed, could be of no
+interest to the public.</p>
+
+<p class="right">
+<span class="smcap" style="padding-right: 1em">George Larpent.</span><br>
+</p>
+
+<p class="fs80"><span class="smcap">London, June, 1853.</span></p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_vii">[Pg vii]</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="PREFACEa">PREFACE<br>
+<span class="fs70">TO THE FIRST EDITION.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="no-indent">The Letters now laid before the Public were addressed
+by my brother to Mrs. Larpent, his step-mother, and my
+mother.</p>
+
+<p>They came into my possession as Executor to my
+mother, and being also the sole Executor to my brother,
+I consider myself at liberty to use my own discretion in
+publishing them. With the exception of some matters
+exclusively private, and connected with family affairs,
+the letters are published as they were written, and not
+one word has been added.</p>
+
+<p>Until the lamented death of the Duke of Wellington I
+did not feel myself justified in making these letters public.
+Not that they contain anything in the slightest degree
+derogating from the exalted estimate so universally
+entertained of the character of that great man; for, on
+the contrary, they tend to confirm the unanimous opinion
+entertained of his admirable qualities; but motives of
+delicacy forbad my offering to the world, during his
+Grace’s lifetime, the many personal anecdotes and opinions
+with which they abound.</p>
+
+<p>The reader will naturally expect to know who and
+what the Author was, and give credit accordingly to the
+statements and observations in his Letters.</p>
+
+<p>Francis Seymour Larpent was the eldest son of John<span class="pagenum" id="Page_viii">[Pg viii]</span>
+Larpent, Esq., of East Sheen, Surrey, by his first wife,
+Frances, daughter of Maximilian Western, Esq., of Cokethorpe
+Park, Oxfordshire. His father, from his earliest
+youth, was employed in the public service. In 1763 he
+was Secretary to the Duke of Bedford at the Peace of
+Paris, and subsequently Secretary to the first Marquess
+of Hertford, when Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland. For many
+years he was in the office of the Secretary of State for
+Foreign Affairs, and at his death in 1824, at a very
+advanced age, held the appointments of Secretary to the
+Lord Privy Seal, and of Examiner of all Theatrical
+Entertainments.</p>
+
+<p>Francis Seymour was born in 1776. He was educated
+at Cheam School, under the Rev. W. Gilpin, well known
+and esteemed as a scholar and man of letters. From
+school he went to St. John’s College, Cambridge, where
+he distinguished himself, and took his degree as Fifth
+Wrangler, and was elected Fellow of that College.
+After studying the law under an eminent special pleader,
+Mr. Bayley, he was called to the Bar, and went the
+Western Circuit. Here he formed friendships with
+several eminent persons, among others with Lord Gifford,
+the Right Hon. C. Manners Sutton, afterwards Lord
+Canterbury, Mr. W. Adam, son of Lord Commissioner
+Adam, and the lamented Francis Horner—friendships
+which were extinguished only by death. His success
+upon the Circuit was slow, but his character as an able
+man and a sound lawyer stood high.</p>
+
+<p>In 1812 he was tempted by the Right Hon. C. Manners
+Sutton, then Judge-Advocate General, to leave his profession,
+and to accept the situation of Judge-Advocate
+General to the armies in Spain under the command of
+the late Duke of Wellington, to remain at head-quarters
+with his Grace, and to manage the Courts-martial
+throughout the army.</p>
+
+<p>At the close of the war in 1814, Mr. Larpent returned<span class="pagenum" id="Page_ix">[Pg ix]</span>
+home with the last detachment of the British army from
+Bordeaux.</p>
+
+<p>Upon his arrival in England he was appointed Judge-Advocate
+at Gibraltar; and a new Charter of Justice for
+that dependency having been framed, various civil,
+admiralty, and judicial duties were annexed to the appointment
+of Judge-Advocate. Whilst the new Charter
+was preparing, Mr. Larpent was appointed to carry on
+the proceedings of the Court-martial on General Sir John
+Murray, at Winchester; and was subsequently joined
+with Mr. King, on behalf of the Government of the
+United States of America, in the inquiry into the unfortunate
+transactions which had taken place in the prison
+at Dartmoor.</p>
+
+<p>These several proceedings having been satisfactorily
+terminated, Mr. Larpent in the spring of 1815 was, at
+the recommendation of Lord Commissioner Adam, selected
+by His Royal Highness the Prince Regent to undertake
+the delicate and confidential duty of inquiring into the
+allegations of improper conduct abroad, on the part of
+the then Princess of Wales, afterwards Queen Caroline.
+This confidential mission was accepted by Mr. Larpent,
+upon the express condition that his appointment should
+emanate directly from the Administration, and that his
+duties (to use his own words) “should consist not in acting
+a spy upon the actions of Her Royal Highness the
+Princess of Wales, but in examining and sifting the facts
+of the case, as stated and discovered by others.”</p>
+
+<p>On this understanding, and after interviews with Lords
+Liverpool, Castlereagh, and Bathurst, and also with the
+approval of Lord Chief Justice Ellenborough, Mr. Larpent
+proceeded ostensibly to his appointment at Gibraltar,
+but really overland by Vienna, to see and consult with
+Count Munster, to whom he was accredited by the
+British Government “as its regularly-authorized, though
+secret and confidential, agent.”</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_x">[Pg x]</span></p>
+
+<p>However strong might be his own persuasion of the
+worse than improper conduct of the Princess, he felt the
+extreme difficulty of obtaining respectable parties to
+come forward with such evidence as would satisfy an
+English Court of Justice; and he never hesitated to
+represent the danger of taking public proceedings against
+her. Having conducted his mission with such prudence
+and discretion that its object was never known except to
+his employers, he proceeded to Gibraltar, and there executed
+his arduous civil and judicial duties to the entire
+satisfaction of the Governor, Sir George Don, and of the
+Secretary of State for the Colonies.</p>
+
+<p>In 1820, upon leaving Gibraltar, he was again employed
+by the Government professionally in Italy upon
+matters connected with the unfortunate trial of Queen
+Caroline; and he communicated direct with the late Lord
+Gifford, upon whom, as Attorney-General, the management
+of the proceedings against Her Majesty officially
+devolved.</p>
+
+<p>In 1821 Mr. Larpent was appointed by Lord Liverpool,
+one of the Commissioners of the Board of Audit of the
+Public Accounts. In 1824 he was transferred to the
+Board of Customs; and, in 1826, was appointed to the
+situation of Chairman of the Audit Board, in which he
+remained until his retirement, in 1843, from ill health.</p>
+
+<p>He enjoyed his release from active official duties only
+about two years, dying in May, 1845. He was twice
+married; first, to Catharine, daughter of the late
+Frederick Reeves, Esq., of the East India Company’s
+Civil Service; and, secondly, to Charlotte, daughter to
+George Arnold Arnold, Esq., of Halsted Park, Kent,
+who survived him, but he left no issue by either.</p>
+
+<p>The favourable opinion entertained of Mr. Larpent’s
+public services will be evident from the following testimonials
+which he received when he applied to Her
+Majesty’s Government for his retirement, viz.:—</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xi">[Pg xi]</span></p>
+<br>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>
+(Copy.) <span style="padding-left: 5em">No. 1.</span></p>
+<p class="right">
+<span style="padding-right: 1em"><em>Treasury Chambers,</em></span><br>
+<em>23rd March, 1843.</em></p>
+
+<p class="no-indent"><span class="smcap">Sir</span>,</p>
+
+<p><span style="padding-left: 2em">I</span> am commanded by the Lords Commissioners of
+Her Majesty’s Treasury to acquaint you that, the First
+Lord of the Treasury having communicated to the Board
+your wish to retire from the Board of Audit, their Lordships
+have been pleased to accede thereto, and will give
+directions for placing you on a retired allowance of 900<em>l.</em>
+per annum, to be paid to you in the same manner as the
+retired allowances of the Audit Office are paid.</p>
+
+<p>In thus acceding to your wishes, my Lords desire me
+to state, that they feel themselves called upon to express
+the high sense which they entertain of the integrity, zeal,
+and ability with which you have discharged the duties of
+the important situations which you have successively
+filled, and the deep regret which they feel for the cause
+which now compels you to retire from the Chair of the
+Board of Audit.</p>
+
+<p class="right">
+<span style="padding-right: 5em">I am, Sir,</span><br>
+<span style="padding-right: 1em">Your most obedient Servant,</span><br>
+(Signed) <span class="smcap" style="padding-left: 2em">G. Clerk.</span></p>
+
+<p class="fs80"><em>To F. S. Larpent, Esq.</em></p>
+</div>
+<br>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>
+(Extract.) <span style="padding-left: 5em">No. 2.</span></p>
+
+<p class="right">
+<span style="padding-right: 1em"><em>Downing Street,</em></span><br>
+<em>March 3rd, 1843.</em></p>
+
+<p class="fs80 no-indent"><span class="smcap">My dear Sir,</span></p>
+
+<p><span style="padding-left: 2em">I</span> have learnt with great regret that we are about
+to lose your services in the Audit Board, over which
+you have so long presided, with equal advantage to the
+public and satisfaction to the Treasury. I only hope that
+you will reap in the improvement of your health a benefit
+equal to that which your retirement will deprive you of.</p>
+
+<p class="right">
+(Signed) <span class="smcap" style="padding-right: 1em">Henry Goulburn.</span></p>
+
+<p class="fs80">
+<em>To F. S. Larpent, Esq.</em><br>
+</p>
+</div>
+<br>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xii">[Pg xii]</span></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>
+(Copy.) <span style="padding-left: 5em">No. 3.</span></p>
+<p class="right fs80" style="padding-right: 1em">
+<em>London, February 28th, 1843.</em></p>
+
+<p><span style="padding-left: 2em">F. M.</span> the Duke of Wellington presents his compliments
+to Mr. Larpent, and has received his letter, and
+sends him a copy of a letter he has received from Sir
+Robert Peel. The Duke regrets much to learn that the
+state of Mr. Larpent’s health compels him to resign the
+office which he holds. If referred to, he will state his
+opinion of the services performed by him, while under
+his command.</p>
+
+<p class="fs80"><em>To F. S. Larpent, Esq.</em></p>
+</div>
+<br>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p class="fs80"><span style="padding-left: 4em"><em>Enclosure in the above Letter.</em></span></p>
+
+<p>(Copy.)</p>
+
+<p class="right fs80">
+<span style="padding-right: 1em"><em>Whitehall, February 27th, 1843.</em></span></p>
+
+<p class="no-indent">
+<span class="smcap">My dear Duke of Wellington</span>,<br>
+</p>
+
+<p><span style="padding-left: 2em">I</span> return the enclosed letter addressed to you by
+Mr. Larpent.</p>
+
+<p>I am sorry to hear that the state of Mr. Larpent’s
+health induced him to contemplate his retirement from
+the public service.</p>
+
+<p class="right">
+(Signed) <span class="smcap" style="padding-left: 2em">Robert Peel.</span></p>
+
+<p class="fs80">
+<em>To the Duke of Wellington</em>,<br>
+<span style="padding-left: 4em"><em>&amp;c.</em> <span style="padding-left: 2em"><em>&amp;c.</em></span></span></p>
+</div>
+<br>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>
+(Copy.) <span style="padding-left: 5em">No. 4.</span></p>
+<p class="right fs80">
+<span style="padding-right: 1em"><em>Whitehall, March 3rd, 1843.</em></span></p>
+<p class="no-indent">
+<span class="smcap">Dear Sir</span>,<br>
+</p>
+
+<p><span style="padding-left: 2em">From</span> my high sense of your public services,
+I have heard with very sincere regret, on public as well
+as on private grounds, that the state of your health
+compels you to contemplate the immediate retirement
+from the important appointment which you hold, the
+duties of which you have discharged with great ability
+and integrity, and with unremitting zeal.</p>
+
+<p>I have been so incessantly occupied by important
+public business, that I have been unable, since the receipt
+of your letter, to confer with the Chancellor of the Exchequer<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xiii">[Pg xiii]</span>
+on the subject to which the enclosure in your
+letter refers, but I will do so without delay, and with every
+desire to take as favourable a view of it as the state of
+the law and the usage in similar cases may permit,</p>
+
+<p class="right">
+<span style="padding-right: 3em">I have the honour to be,</span><br>
+<span style="padding-right: 5em">Dear Sir,</span><br>
+<span style="padding-right: 2em">Your obedient and faithful Servant,</span><br>
+(Signed) <span class="smcap" style="padding-left: 2em">Robert Peel</span>.</p>
+<p class="fs80 no-indent">
+<em>To F. S. Larpent, Esq.</em><br>
+</p>
+</div>
+<br>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>
+(Extract.) <span style="padding-left: 5em">No. 5.</span></p>
+<p class="right fs80">
+<span style="padding-right: 2em"><em>March 22nd, 1845.</em></span><br>
+<em>60, Lower Belgrade Street.</em><br>
+</p>
+
+<p><span style="padding-left: 2em">I</span> shall feel it due to Mr. Larpent to say at what
+rate I placed his services.</p>
+
+<p>Never public servant deserved better his hard-earned
+retirement by honest, zealous, and able services.</p>
+
+<p class="right">
+(Signed) <span class="smcap" style="padding-left: 2em">F. Baring</span>.<br>
+</p>
+</div>
+<br>
+
+<hr class="r25">
+<br>
+
+<p>I rejoice in having the opportunity afforded me by the
+publication of these Letters, of recording the public
+services of an affectionate brother, and of indulging in
+the remembrance of the many private virtues which were
+conspicuous in his upright and honourable career.</p>
+
+<p>I have thought it objectionable to alter the language
+of the narrative, although aware of the many inaccuracies
+in letters written in the hurry of a campaign (a mode of
+life foreign to the writer’s habits), and not intended for
+publication.</p>
+
+<p>I therefore determined to leave the Letters as I found
+them, thinking that the simplicity of the style and the
+minute details threw over the Journal a charm of truth
+and reality which a more studied composition would not
+have possessed. I have a confident reliance that my
+brother has related nothing that he did not himself<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xiv">[Pg xiv]</span>
+believe to be true, for he was a man of scrupulous
+veracity, and one not given hastily to record what he
+had not at the time sufficient warranty to believe to be
+correct.</p>
+
+<p>The Journal carries the reader, as it were, behind the
+scenes in the great drama of War. The sufferings of
+individuals, the hardships endured in a campaign, are
+scarcely ever recorded by the historian—they are lost in
+the blaze of glory which surrounds such narratives. In
+this Journal not only will be seen the miseries which are
+endured in the attainment of military glory by the
+soldier, but the still greater miseries of the unfortunate
+people whose country is the scene of military operations.</p>
+
+<p>Such vivid paintings as are here exhibited must, it is
+to be hoped, make the most reckless politician and the
+most ambitious soldier aware of the deep responsibility
+incurred by all who encourage the passion for military
+glory, except when war becomes absolutely necessary
+for the defence of our country, its liberties, and institutions,
+and for the preservation of the independence of
+Europe.</p>
+
+<p>It was for these objects that the two great wars in
+which the Duke of Wellington was so pre-eminent were
+carried on, and the results—the recovery of their national
+independence by Spain and Portugal, and a peace of
+thirty-eight years’ duration—fully warranted the sacrifices
+made by Great Britain, exalted her national
+character, and justified her admiration of the Commander,
+who, under Providence, was the great instrument of her
+success.</p>
+
+<p class="right">
+<span class="smcap" style="padding-right: 1em">George Larpent.</span><br>
+</p>
+
+<p class="fs80"><span class="smcap">London, December, 1852.</span></p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xv">[Pg xv]</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak bold" id="CONTENTS">CONTENTS.</h2>
+</div>
+<br>
+
+<hr class="r25">
+<br>
+
+<table class="autotable">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl"></td>
+<td class="tdr fs70">PAGE</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER I.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Departure from England—Exercises on Ship-board—Off the Coast—Arrival at Lisbon—Residence there—Journey to head-quarters commenced—Abrantes—General features of the march—Salamanca</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1">1</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc" colspan="2"><br>CHAPTER II.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Arrival at head-quarters—Ciudad Rodrigo—The Retreat—Its disasters—Capture of General Paget—Personal Anecdotes—Scarcity of Provisions—Courts-martial in the army—Business of a Judge-Advocate—Wellington</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_21">21</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc" colspan="2"><br>CHAPTER III.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Arrival of the Gazette—More Courts-martial—The Mad Commissary—Intentions of Lord Wellington—Social Amusements—Sporting—Wellington’s fox-hounds—His stud—A dinner at the Commander-in-Chief’s—Number of Courts-martial—Anecdotes of Wellington</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_37">37</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc" colspan="2"><br>CHAPTER IV.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">More Courts-martial—Bal Masqué—Anecdotes of Wellington—Songs in his praise—Spanish banditti—Excesses of the Army—Carnival—More Anecdotes of the Duke—The staff—Grand entertainment at head-quarters—Wellington’s opinion of affairs at home—Murder of an officer—General Craufurd</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_54">54</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xvi">[Pg xvi]</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc" colspan="2"><br>CHAPTER V.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">News of the French—Castilian costume—Equipment of the army—Melancholy Court-martial case—Wellington in the battle of Fuentes d’Onore—The chances of war—Anecdotes of Wellington—His opinions of the war—The new Mutiny Act—Wellington on “Vetus”—General Murray—Advance of the French</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_87">87</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc" colspan="2"><br>CHAPTER VI.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Newspaper complaints—Wellington’s comments—Review of the Portuguese—Gatherings at head-quarters—Reviews—Recommencement of the march—The route</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_106">106</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc" colspan="2"><br>CHAPTER VII.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">The march commenced—Scenes on the road—Villa Dalla—Toro—Castro Monte—Palencia—Prospects of a general action—Skirmishing—Massa</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_121">121</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc" colspan="2"><br>CHAPTER VIII.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">March continued—Quintana—Anecdote of Wellington—Morillas—Vittoria—The battle—Its results—Plunder—Kindness to the enemy—Madame de Gazan—The hospital—Sufferings of the wounded—Estimated loss</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_150">150</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc" colspan="2"><br>CHAPTER IX.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Pamplona—Pursuit of Clausel—Wellington on the march—Prospects of more Fighting—Effects of the war—The French position turned—Anecdote of Wellington—Ernani—St. Sebastian—Wellington’s movements</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_166">166</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc" colspan="2"><br>CHAPTER X.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Movements of the army—Wellington on the Portuguese—His personal habits—St. Sebastian—The siege—Miseries of war—Wounded officers—The Prince of Orange—Vestiges of the retreat—English papers—False accounts of the campaign—Incidents of the war</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_195">195</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xvii">[Pg xvii]</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc" colspan="2"><br>CHAPTER XI.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Rejoicings for the victory—Sufferings of Cole’s division—Complaints of the French—Statements of a French prisoner—Decay of Spain—Characteristics of Wellington—His opinion of Bonaparte—Prospects of a renewal of the attack—Exchange of Prisoners—Wellington’s Spanish estate—His opinion of Picton—Disposition of the army</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_220">220</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc" colspan="2"><br>CHAPTER XII.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Reported renewal of operations against St. Sebastian—Effects of the war on Spain and Portugal—Wellington’s account of recent proceedings—Courts-martial—Prisoners shot—Discussions on war between Wellington and a French deserter—The siege resumed—Work of the heavy batteries—Trial of General O’Halloran—Volunteers for the storming parties</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_238">238</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc" colspan="2"><br>CHAPTER XIII.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">The Author taken prisoner—Kind treatment by the French General—Life of a prisoner—Release—Details of the Author’s captivity—Curious scene at General Pakenham’s—A Basque squire</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_250">250</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc" colspan="2"><br>CHAPTER XIV.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Picturesque quarters—Spanish reverses—A strange adventure—Spanish jealousy—Distribution of the army—A pleasant companion—News from the North—Morale of the French army—The artillery</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_276">276</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc" colspan="2"><br>CHAPTER XV.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Fall of Pamplona—Deterioration of the army—Duke of York’s orders—Orders of merit—Church service—Capture of French redoubts—March of the army—Incidents of foreign service—Frequency of desertion—Wellington and the lawyers</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_289">289</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc" colspan="2"><br>CHAPTER XVI.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">News from France—Lord Fitzroy Somerset—Departure of the Prince of Orange—Exchange of prisoners—Proximity of the two armies—Wellington’s cooks—Warlike movements—French attack—The Guards—Deserters—More fighting</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_308">308</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xviii">[Pg xviii]</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc" colspan="2"><br>CHAPTER XVII.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">French attack—Plan of desertion—Excesses of the French—A Basque witness—Sir John Hope—Movements of the army—Sale of effects—Wellington’s simplicity of character—A French emigré—Return of Soult to Bayonne</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_323">323</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc" colspan="2"><br>CHAPTER XVIII.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Reports from France—More desertion—Anecdote of General Stewart—Wellington and his casualty returns—The courtesies of war—Scarcity of transports—Wellington and the trial-papers—Sir G. Collier</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_339">339</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc" colspan="2"><br>CHAPTER XIX.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Rumours of war—The rival dinner tables—“Slender Billy”—Bonaparte’s trickery—Spanish violence—Wellington with the hounds—French and English aspects—The outsides of the nations</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_352">352</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc" colspan="2"><br>CHAPTER XX.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">State of feeling in France—Rocket practice—The Prince Regent’s hobby—The Mayor’s ball—The flag-of-truce</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_362">362</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc" colspan="2"><br>CHAPTER XXI.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Army supplies—Offending villages—Symptoms of work—Arrival of the Duke d’Angoulême—The bridge across the Adour—Wellington and his Chief Engineer—His activity</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_377">377</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc" colspan="2"><br>CHAPTER XXII.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Movements of the army—Narrow escape of Wellington—Anecdote of Wellington at Rodrigo—Novel scaling ladders—Sir Alexander Dickson—Wellington’s vanity—Operations resumed—Spanish officers—The passage of the Adour—The road to Bayonne—Death of Captain Pitts</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_400">400</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xix">[Pg xix]</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc" colspan="2"><br>CHAPTER XXIII.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Passage of the river—Start for Orthes—Effect of the battle—Feelings of the French—Wellington wounded—St. Sever—Church and School—Aire—Wellington on the conduct of the Allies—Indurating effects of War</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_417">417</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc" colspan="2"><br>CHAPTER XXIV.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Reports from the seat of war—The Duke d’Angoulême—The German cavalry—Misconduct of the Spaniards—Attacks on our grazing parties—Movement of head-quarters—Death of Colonel Sturgeon—Visit to the hospital—New quarters—Skirmishes—Wellington and the mayor</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_436">436</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc" colspan="2"><br>CHAPTER XXV.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Difficulties of the march—Failure of the bridge of boats—The Garonne—Excesses of Murillo’s corps—Bad news—Exchange of prisoners—Arrival before Toulouse—A prisoner of war—Anecdote of Wellington</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_452">452</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc" colspan="2"><br>CHAPTER XXVI.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Uncertain intelligence—Capture of Toulouse—Wellington at the theatre—The “Liberator”—Ball at the Prefecture—The feelings of the French—Soult and Suchet—Ball at the Capitole</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_478">478</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc" colspan="2"><br>CHAPTER XXVII.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Toulouse—Its churches—Protestant service—Libraries—Reception of the Duke d’Angoulême—The French Generals—Popularity of Wellington</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_501">501</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc" colspan="2"><br>CHAPTER XXVIII.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Toulouse—Mr. Macarthy’s Library—The Marquess of Buckingham—General Hope—Wellington’s dukedom—The theatre—A romantic story—Feeling towards the English—The Duke on the Russian cavalry</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_523">523</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xx">[Pg xx]</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc" colspan="2"><br>CHAPTER XXIX.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Preparations for departure—Bordeaux—Imposition on the English—Greetings from the Women—Mausoleum of Louis XVI.</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_541">541</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc" colspan="2"><br>CHAPTER XXX.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">The opera-house—The cathedral—The synagogue—A Jewish wedding—Strange show-house—Wellington and King Ferdinand</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_553">553</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc" colspan="2"><br>CHAPTER XXXI.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Country Fêtes—Brawls with the French—The Duke d’Angoulême—Mademoiselle Georges—The Actress and the Emperor—French acting and French audiences—Presentation of a sword to Lord Dalhousie—Georges’ benefit—Departure</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_566">566</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl"><br><hr class="r25"><span class="smcap">Appendix</span></td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href="#APPENDIX">579</a></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</span></p>
+
+<p class="fs150 center no-indent bold">PRIVATE JOURNAL,<br>
+<span class="fs70">&amp;c. &amp;c.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="r25">
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="fs80" style="margin-left: 2em; text-indent: -2em;">Departure from England—Exercises on Ship-board—Off the Coast—Arrival
+at Lisbon—Residence there—Journey to Head-quarters commenced—Abrantes—General
+features of the March—Salamanca.</p>
+
+<p class="right fs80">
+H. M. S. <em>Vautour</em>, off Mondego Bay,<br>
+<span style="padding-right: 2em">Sept. 14, 1812. Monday.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p class="no-indent">
+<span class="smcap">My dear M——</span>,
+</p>
+
+<p><span style="padding-left: 2em">It</span> was very fortunate that I kept to my post at
+the George Inn, at Portsmouth; for at seven in the
+morning of Saturday the 5th I was called from my bed
+by the Admiral, who told me that, in consequence of
+the news from Madrid, he had received orders to send
+a ship of war after the <em>Pylades</em>, to endeavour to prevent
+her landing the money she had carried out to Oporto,
+and to direct her captain to take it on to Lisbon. He
+told me that, if I could get ready and on board immediately,
+I might accompany him. Accordingly, soon
+after nine o’clock I was on board His Majesty’s ship
+the <em>Vauteur</em>, or <em>Vautour</em>, or <em>Vulture</em>, a fast-sailing brig
+of sixteen guns—fourteen carronades, twenty-four
+pounders, and two long nines; the only remaining trophy
+in our Navy of the glorious expedition to the Scheldt!
+The Captain, a most open-hearted, friendly man, by name<span class="pagenum" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</span>
+Lawless, is a native of the south of Ireland. The vessel
+is an excellent sailer, and the whole in good order, with
+a fine crew of a hundred and five men; but the accommodations
+are very small, as all is made for use, and
+nothing for convenience or ornament. The Captain’s
+cabin, about ten feet by twelve, he shared with me.
+One of us hung up a cot on each side at night, and
+we lived there when these cots were removed in the daytime;
+there was no opening but the hatches at top, no
+windows at all. I had, however, what was most material,
+a most friendly, kind reception, and shared every comfort
+the Captain was possessed of. This consisted of a joint
+daily, generally fresh, good wine and brandy, vegetables,
+and, up to this day, good bread, great attention, and a
+thorough welcome.</p>
+
+<p><em>Friday the 11th.</em>—At eleven o’clock precisely, as our
+timepieces and observations had indicated, we sighted
+Spain; and had the additional amusement of good charts,
+and maps, and telescopes, to examine the coasts, besides
+assisting in the observations on deck, and watching all
+that was going on. The scene was one of constant
+activity during the voyage, not a moment’s idleness; the
+sails were mended; the masts were repaired; the deck
+was caulked, and made water-tight for the winter; the
+winter rigging was made ready; the sides of the ship
+painted. All this, besides the usual routine duty of the
+ship, was done whenever there was smooth water. One
+fine calm evening the Captain amused me with a sham-fight,
+and put the men through their exercises; first at
+one set of the guns, then at the other; marines and all
+were at work. He showed me also the effect of a long
+shot and a grape shot from the carronades in the water.
+These occupations, with a little reading and writing,
+preparatory to my land journey, filled up the days until
+dark, when we took to our cots. We first made the land
+off Cape Adrian, half way between Cape Ortegal and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</span>
+Cape Finisterre, and got in close to the Sisarga Island,
+about one o’clock on Friday the 11th. We then coasted
+close in shore all the way to Cape Finisterre, which we
+reached at dark: the shore is very bold and fine, but
+with a barren aspect, and the appearance of an inhospitable
+and almost uninhabited land. The high tracts
+towards Corunna, and perhaps about Ferrol, were only
+just visible at first; but from Sisarga to Finisterre we
+saw them about as plainly as we should have done on
+shore.</p>
+
+<p><em>Saturday 12th.</em>—This morning we found ourselves close
+off Cape Saliers, having passed Vigo Bay in the night.
+Thence we slowly crept along shore all that day in sight
+of the country, buildings, &amp;c., until we arrived at dark
+within about twelve miles of Oporto, off Villa de Condé.
+The country is very beautiful and picturesque, nearly as
+bold as the former, but very much built over, dotted
+with many villages and detached houses, and verdant
+with much wood; all externally very loveable and delightful.
+Monte Santa Tecla, at the entrance of Minho,
+is an imposing object, and the whole coast interesting,
+especially from Viana to Oporto, and most of all about
+Villa de Condé and Oporto. Condé is a handsome-looking
+town, well situated, with several large good-looking
+houses, and an aqueduct, reaching nearly three
+miles I should think, parallel to the shore, through two
+villages to the hills. The hills were well wooded, and
+many houses, villas, &amp;c., covered their sides: whether
+the aqueduct was still in use we could not discover; but
+I saw no breaks in it as I viewed it through the glass.
+We made signals to the pilots to come out from Oporto
+on Saturday evening, but were too far off to be observed;
+and from the fear of an accident, though within ten
+miles, were obliged to stand off all night, and try to keep
+our place.</p>
+
+<p><em>Sunday the 13th.</em>—Still abreast of Condé, and having<span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</span>
+no wind, the whole day getting near to Oporto. Several
+fishermen came on board from the boats around. They
+all agreed that the <em>Pylades</em> had not been at Oporto—tidings
+which delighted the Captain; but upon the
+Consul’s boat coming off at a signal, when we got near
+the bar in the evening, we found that the <em>Pylades</em> had
+been off the bar three nights before, just the time she
+sailed before us at Portsmouth, and had landed General
+Oswald, the medical men, and the money at nine o’clock
+at night, and had gone on; and that the money was on
+its way to the army. We, therefore, put right about
+again, and got about ten miles from the bar of Oporto,
+which we had heard roaring many miles off, before dark.
+Last night we were again becalmed, and at twelve to-day
+(the 14th) we were only in Mondego Bay, near the spot
+where the <em>Apollo</em>, and forty of her convoy, were lost in
+1804. Here we met a wind right a-head, and have been
+beating out ever since. At three it shifted a little, and
+we are now returning, and hope to clear Mondego Point
+and get in sight of the Burlingas before dark to-night.
+From about ten miles below Oporto, near Aveiro, to the
+Mondego highlands, the coast is flat, and we have only
+seen in Mondego Bay sand-hills and a few huts, and
+have only heard the surf roaring at a distance of nearly
+ten miles. We are now about fifty miles from the Burlingas
+and about ninety from Lisbon, and hope to be
+there to-morrow.</p>
+
+<p>Our officers are, the Captain, Lawless; first lieutenant,
+Soper; the second lieutenant, a fine, stout Irishman, who
+has amused me much, by recounting the escapes of his
+past life.</p>
+
+<p><em>Tuesday 15th, 12 o’clock.</em>—Still about twenty miles
+from Mondego Point. Marshal Beresford, who is lying
+at Oporto badly wounded, sent out to ask for a passage
+to Lisbon on board our vessel; and it was arranged that
+we were to fire two guns if we could accommodate him:<span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</span>
+but the Captain was not able to do so in his small cabin,
+even if we had both given up our berths, which we
+would cheerfully have done. It was fortunate, however,
+he did not come on board, as he would have passed three
+miserable nights if he had made trial of our scanty accommodation.</p>
+
+<p><em>Lisbon, September 17th.</em>—Two more nights out becalmed—one,
+off Mondego Bay; and another, off the
+rock of Lisbon. We got in here this morning at seven
+o’clock, and have been all the morning running about
+the town. The view at the entrance into the harbour is
+very beautiful. We anchored at dusk off Cascaes Fort
+last night. The General, Peacock, has given me quarters
+at the Marquis d’Abrantes’, and to-day I dine with the
+General. It is said that there is a great mortality in the
+army; the officers sickly, and a great want of money.</p>
+
+<p><em>Lisbon, September 20th, 1812.</em>—I have now been three
+days in this town, which resembles the description of
+certain ladies whom I have a right to suppose to be
+within your knowledge, for I think they are described in
+the Bible, and in other good books which you study—all
+outside show, except in the state apartments of a few individuals,
+which are certainly very magnificent. Streets
+very offensive, palaces by the side of ruins, and sometimes
+even the palaces in a state of partial decay, though
+in other parts stately and magnificent in their architectural
+proportions. Everywhere there is an aspect of
+extreme poverty side by side with some showy indications
+of wealth; and it is evident that among the lower
+classes impostors are as plentiful as mosquitos. The
+heat is extreme—worse than I found it at Paris in
+August 1802. The evenings, however, are cool, and
+near the water the breezes are refreshing. They congratulate
+me, indeed, on the comparative mildness of the
+season, which is favourable for my journey to head-quarters,
+which are at Dulmas, in advance of Valladolid.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</span></p>
+
+<p>On landing, I proceeded immediately to General
+Peacock, the commanding officer, who received me with
+great civility, and I dined with him that day. As to
+forwarding me to the army, it appears all that he can do
+is to give me a route, which will procure me at different
+stations (though at times two or three days distant from
+each other), rations for bread and forage, as there are
+depôts at intervals of from one to three days’ journey all
+the way. I shall have to purchase two mules and two
+horses. The price of horses is high; on an average, two
+hundred and twenty dollars each. Captain C——, of the
+staff here, has offered to go to the fair with me on
+Tuesday to buy cattle and all other necessaries for my
+journey. There is no route except by Ciudad Rodrigo,
+and, therefore, though it is said that head-quarters may
+be at Madrid before my arrival, I shall be compelled to go
+that way. Baron Quintilla was not in town. The Envoy
+asked me to dinner immediately to his country-house at
+Benefica, and was extremely civil to me, remarking that
+mine was not a common letter of introduction. He asked
+me again yesterday, but being unwell, I declined the
+flattering invitation. He also offered to carry me in his
+suite to a bull-fight, twelve miles off; but as this would
+detain me from Sunday to Tuesday, and interfere with
+my whole plan, I am obliged reluctantly to forego the
+amusement. I am not here for my pleasure. When I
+arrived at the Envoy’s he was absent, and I had a
+<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">tête-à-tête</i> with General Abadia, who is here on his way
+to Cadiz, where he is to take a high official position.
+He appeared a clever man, but I understand his loyalty to
+Ferdinand is doubtful, for a letter addressed to him by
+his wife, who is with the French, inquiring when he
+would fulfil his promise of joining their party, has been
+intercepted.</p>
+
+<p>This may be all a trick, but there is something suspicious
+about it. He blamed us very much, charging us<span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</span>
+with having made two great blunders, in not seizing
+Santona, by troops from England, and securing that river
+communication and post to land all our men in, instead
+of Lisbon; and also in not allowing the Sicilian expedition
+to seize Tortosa, and maintain a post on that river,
+the most important and most annoying to Soult. He
+spoke in high terms of Lord Wellington, but seemed to
+think that the fate of Europe depends upon the conduct
+of Russia in this conjuncture.</p>
+
+<p>The idea seems now to be, that Soult, Suchet, and
+Joseph have formed a junction. They have above sixty
+thousand effective men; and it is added, that the French
+now have their old position on the Ebro always in their
+power. General Carrier was brought in here a prisoner
+on Thursday, from Salamanca: he had five wounds,
+which are nearly healed, but he thought he should lose a
+finger. He came in to the General whilst I dined there.
+He seemed to be out of spirits, but said that Marmont
+was nearly well, and would resume his command. The
+French, I hear, are intrenched near Burgos.</p>
+
+<p>I have obtained quarters at the <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">casa</i> of the Marquesa
+d’Abrantes, a good situation, and a lieutenant-colonel’s
+quarters. Her husband is a prisoner in France. I have
+a separate door, which leads away to four small rooms
+to the street; bare walls, painted with military trophies,
+and the whole kept as quarters. In these I have two
+tables, a dozen chairs, a bedstead, a mattress, a worked
+flounced quilt, some fine sheets, but, of course, no blankets.
+At first we had nothing else; but I have now got a silver
+basin and ewer, some knives and forks, and a supply of
+water. These apartments might easily be made very
+comfortable. The state rooms of this house, looking
+over about an acre of garden (which is open to the
+public), are very handsome. As the marquesa lost her
+mother last week, about twenty cabriolets a-day have
+brought visitors to pay respects, &amp;c., and about a hundred<span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</span>
+and fifty beggars to receive their alms. By the way, the
+English have caused everything here to become very
+dear. The churches are gaudy, and in some respects not
+a little ridiculous, but still, to my mind, nothing like so
+trumpery, absurd, and indeed indecorous in every respect
+as those in Flanders, and in some parts of Switzerland
+and Piedmont. The Roman Catholics here certainly
+have the appearance of devotion, and seem more in
+earnest, much more so than in France, and more so than
+in any country I have seen.</p>
+
+<p><em>Lisbon, September 23rd, 1812.</em>—I was at the fair, in
+the heat of the sun, all yesterday, and have bought two
+small mules, one small horse, and have agreed for
+another, a small pony, to carry me. The fair has
+knocked me up as well as my man Henry. I have been
+all this day with Captain C——, almost my only friend
+here, at market, bargaining for travelling necessaries.
+Commissary P—— will lend me one public mule; so now
+I hope I am equipped as far as that goes. The General
+offers to send me with the next treasure, which goes
+nobody knows when; but refuses me two soldiers to go
+with me, though it is said that it is really dangerous to
+go without them.</p>
+
+<p><em>Lisbon, September 26th, 1812, Saturday.</em>—Though in
+a constant fever from fleas and mosquitos, we should have
+started yesterday with some treasure, but my servant
+Henry could not stir, and my Portuguese servant took
+himself off at eight in the morning. I have now got a
+German deserter as servant instead of the Portuguese;
+and trust he will not carry on the old game, and desert
+with my baggage. He is said to speak a little English
+and Portuguese, and know the country well.</p>
+
+<p><em>Sunday.</em>—For one day more I have postponed my
+journey, intending to start with some treasure and two
+officers on Tuesday. The Opera-house here is a dull,
+heavy building, about the size of the Haymarket Opera-house;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</span>
+but the dancing more like Sadler’s Wells than
+the Opera in England: great activity and force in the
+buffo style like comic masks—this appears to be the
+favourite style here. Macbeth was turned into a pantomine;
+the death and dagger scene very fine, but the
+whole effect marred by the mummery of fantastic dancing
+and skipping witches. I have not had time to see any
+thing except Lisbon, and the aqueduct: the latter work
+certainly fine, but not of an attractive shape. Round
+arches would have had a better effect, and the piers want
+evenness and regularity; nevertheless it is a work worthy
+of the Romans. I contrived to-day to go to Belem
+church, a very fine specimen of arabesque, the best thing
+I have seen here; in style it is between the Saxon and
+Antique, with a little Gothic intermixed, the ornaments
+beautiful and in high preservation.</p>
+
+<p><em>Abrantes, October 6th, 1812.</em>—A day’s halt here enables
+me to write to you. I left Lisbon on the 30th
+September, by two o’clock, with my sick party, and
+thence eight miles to Saccavem in about three hours.
+The road to Saccavem and nearly to Villa Franca is fine;
+and, except that there are no trees besides olive-trees,
+which appear like apple-trees at a distance, and no verdure,
+the river and country are picturesque.</p>
+
+<p>On the second night we reached Villa Franca, sixteen
+miles; the third night, Agembiga twelve; the fourth,
+Santarem sixteen. The positions and accounts in our
+gazettes made this route interesting, but the road itself
+is dull and sandy. Suppose a few olive-trees and firs on
+Bagshot Heath, and you have the scene. Saccavem and
+Santarem are both fine positions for appearance, and the
+latter for defence. All the towns are half in ruins, as
+well as almost all the single houses on the road to this
+place. On the fifth day we reached Galegao, sixteen
+miles; on the sixth, Punhete, twelve miles; on the
+seventh, Abrantes, eight miles. I am now eighty-eight<span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</span>
+miles from Lisbon. From Galegao to Abrantes the road
+runs near the river, the verdure increases, there are a few
+chestnut, oranges, and larger firs, and in the spring the
+scenery must be very picturesque. Abrantes, on a commanding
+eminence, is in a very fine situation, and looks
+over much fine country. Finding my sick men unequal
+to the fatigue, I applied to the officer of the treasure, and
+got a soldier, a fine active Tyrolese, who does more work
+in an hour than my poor creatures in a day. He cleans
+down the animals, waters them, loads, &amp;c., and as I carry
+his baggage for him, and give him rather better fare, he
+seems to be very well pleased with the post. He leads a
+mule on the road, walking at his ease: by this means I
+now get off about six o’clock every morning.</p>
+
+<p>The treasure-party, finding the heat made the men ill,
+now start at five o’clock; still I am much better than I
+was when I started, and when on the march I go quicker
+than the treasure, as I have easy loads. Henry leads the
+first mule on horseback, the soldier walking by the side
+to keep everything right, whilst I bring up the rear
+myself, always on the watch, and thus have but few
+accidents. One of my mules is a nice fat round fellow,
+who eats so much they cannot keep the baggage from
+rolling off him without holding it on; another mule had
+a troublesome propensity of lying down with the baggage.
+My Tyrolese only speaks German, French, and a little
+Portuguese.</p>
+
+<p>So many of the men of another treasure-party were ill,
+that they halted, and then went on with us; this
+crowded the road and made it more uncomfortable.
+Here at Abrantes we separate—they go to General Hill.
+On arriving at a place, the first thing is to hunt for the
+<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Juge de Fores</i>, to procure quarters, but if there is an
+English commandant, he must first be beaten up for an
+order, then the quarters are to be found; sometimes those
+allotted are full; then another billet must be obtained:<span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</span>
+sometimes the stables are full of kicking mules, and
+other stables must be found elsewhere. At length
+we unload, all in one room with four walls, a table, and
+a chair. Then at every third place we have to go to the
+Commissary to draw rations, straw, and barley for
+the animals to eat—spirits, meat, and bread for ourselves,
+and wood for firing. These must sometimes be fetched
+from half a mile to a mile and a half off, and be procured
+from roguish Portuguese under-commissaries. Sometimes
+great pieces of green wood are allotted to us, which
+will not burn, and we have nothing to cut it with.
+This, which we often leave as not worth carriage, costs
+Government a large sum: a third of the quantity, if
+good, would serve better. As the wood and straw
+we cannot manage to take with us, we carry on barley,
+and buy a little straw, or Sadran corn straw, which is the
+best when fresh. At first the Portuguese were very civil
+at quarters, but we are now too numerous, and many
+behave ill from disgust and weariness. They are now
+very backward to supply anything, even when they have
+it, which often is not the case. They provide a room, a
+lamp, water, a basin, a towel by night, a table, a chair,
+and something to lie upon; some furnish very decent beds.</p>
+
+<p>Two days ago the scene changed, and it has since
+rained almost incessantly. We got wet yesterday, halted
+to-day, and to-morrow I probably shall start, to be
+soaked to the very bones. My mode of living may
+interest you. I rise, then, at half-past four, take some
+bread, spirits and water, and a raw egg when I can
+get one, or sometimes a few grapes. When we stop to
+water, I eat some bread and cheese, a dear luxury on the
+road, a very little country wine and water, and now and
+then coffee or chocolate. In the evening, a stew (when
+we can get it) comes as a treat, and then we lie down on
+the floor at eight o’clock in hope of sleep—a hope more
+frequently fulfilled than it was at Lisbon. Stores are all<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</span>
+now at double price, and will soon not be procurable at
+any cost.</p>
+
+<p>The Commissary says we shall have six hours’ walk
+in the rain instead of the sun now; and after two or
+three days we shall find only deserted ruins where the
+French came, and we after them, last year. I hope
+this is exaggeration. Windows in this great town are
+not to be seen even in Colonels’ quarters, or in the best
+shops. This is an active, busy place—thoroughly
+military. The vintage was going on as we proceeded on
+the road, and we had abundance of grapes. The poor
+soldiers, having three days’ rations served out at
+once, consume all the drink on the first day, sell the
+meat to save carriage and the trouble of cooking it,
+and live upon bread and grapes and water, till their next
+supply comes to hand. At Santarem and here, hospitals
+are established as well as at Lisbon; many fine-looking
+fellows, reduced to skeletons, are in them. I have a new
+route to-morrow round about: first day, Garvao; second,
+Nisa; third, Villa Velha; fourth, Cernados; fifth, Castello
+Branco: sixteen miles, twenty miles, twelve miles,
+eight, and eighty.</p>
+
+<p><em>Sunday, Castello Branco, October 11th, 1812.</em>—Here
+am I thus far safe on my pilgrimage, and tolerably well
+considering all things, for I seldom get above two or
+three hours’ sleep, and many nights none at all, from
+noises, fleas, gnats, mosquitos, bad accommodation, and
+anxiety. From Abrantes I got safely to Garvao, which
+is finely situated, and the walk to it wildly beautiful.
+The next day I warned my people to rise by half-past
+four; we loaded in the dark, but started by daylight,
+and got in before the treasure to Niga. A good mattress
+and clean sheets, &amp;c., on the floor, without fleas, are
+genuine luxuries. For the first time in Portugal I got
+six hours’ sleep. In the same manner I started again
+from Niga by five o’clock, and got through two treasure<span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</span>
+days’ journey in one to Cernados. Understanding that
+at Villa Velha there were only desolate ruins, scarcely
+supplying a dry cover, by starting again early yesterday
+from Cernados (which consists only of one house, half of
+it a ruin, with a nest of ruined cottages round it), I
+reached this place by ten yesterday, and thus had all the
+remainder of the day to rest, and this in addition (Sunday),
+for the treasure arrived only to-day.</p>
+
+<p>I have thus avoided the common piggery of being all
+in one house at Cernados, and a bad night at Villa Velha.
+By calculating distances and time also, I have kept my
+men and myself dry. As the rains generally come on
+hitherto after twelve in the day, and in the night, we
+have only been caught in two English showers. It
+rained all the time we were at Abrantes, from twelve on
+the day we arrived, entirely through the following day,
+to about an hour before we started. All the rest of the
+day was fine, rain again all the evening—the same at
+Niga, and the same here also. And such rain! it would
+saturate anything in ten minutes. As it is now cooler, I
+walk half the way, which also saves my pony. I have
+here assigned to me the quarters of the Generals who
+pass through. These consist of the ruin of a fine house
+for quarters, and a large room with four great windows
+without glass, and four doors in it; gold frames around
+without their looking-glasses in them, fine chairs without
+bottoms, &amp;c., &amp;c. The house belongs to the <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">Illustrissimo
+Signor Barao</i>. I have a mattress on the floor with fleas
+innumerable. I have my route, and here it is: first
+day, Eschalas de Cimo; second, San Miguel; third,
+Menoa; fourth, Sabugal; fifth, perhaps a halt; sixth,
+Aldea da Ponte; seventh, Sturno; eighth, Ciudad Rodrigo.
+We are to carry provisions for four days with us,
+then provide for three, and start to-morrow or next day
+as the treasure mules are able; then go on to Fuentes de
+Castelegos, Forgadilla, Calçade de Don Diego, Salamanca.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</span>
+Few of these places are in Faden’s map. Nothing can
+be had on the road, it is said, not even dry stabling or a
+dry room; and much wet is expected. The place is
+finely situated on the east side of a hill which is crowned
+by an old Moorish castle and walls, and a modern monastery
+in ruins! It is one of the best towns we have seen,
+and there are the ruins of some good houses; provisions
+and necessaries are to be bought here, but at a high price.
+There is part of the fine episcopal palace (where a Portuguese
+General is quartered), with a garden in tolerable
+order, a good church, and several picturesque-looking
+ruined monasteries, with crosses at every step. I have
+taken a few sketches where we stop on the road, though
+too much occupied with business to think much of the
+picturesque. Niga is also picturesque.</p>
+
+<p>My adventures are all much alike. The only variety
+is an arrival wet through to the skin. No one can say
+where we shall go to at last. I suppose I must now proceed
+to Salamanca, and then something must be determined
+upon. Things do not go on well at Burgos, I
+fear; there is much delay, more than was expected.
+Lord Wellington is, it is said, not satisfied. At Cernados
+a cobbler was the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Juge de Fores</i>, and gave us our billets.
+On the walls was an excellent likeness in chalk of Lord
+George Lennox, done by the shadow, I suppose from the
+lamp which is allowed us. I hear of sickness everywhere;
+much at head-quarters. The general orders have
+many more on the list of absent from sickness, than on
+that of arrivals at the army. Soult is very strong.
+General Hill, I believe, is still at Toledo.</p>
+
+<p>Near the mountains on the other side of the Tagus is
+an old castle or two, and some pleasant glimpses of fine
+valleys, and the deep banks of the river which is hidden
+from the view. The sandy commons like Bagshot,
+over which the road passes, are more bold, the hills
+higher, and covered almost entirely with the gum cistus,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</span>
+which has a sweet scent, but, being out of bloom in that
+state, is not so pleasing as our heaths with their various
+colours. There is a little heath like the Devonshire
+heath, and some parts of the road rather like Dartmoor.
+Near Niga are seen the mountains about Elvas, and in
+the line to Badajoz, and the Spanish mountains of Estremadura,
+The country proved to me the merit of some
+of Rubens’ Spanish views, which are, like his Flemish
+pictures, most correct in the character of the scenery.
+From Niga, after proceeding a league, you wind down a
+wild Devonshire or Welsh sort of road; first cross a small
+river, then the Tagus again, almost down steps—not so
+bad as some wild parts of Ireland, to be sure, though very
+bad for the loaded mules. Here is very little oak, underwood,
+some fir, but chiefly and perpetually the gum
+cistus, which grows to about four feet high. Villa Velha
+is a village in ruins, finely situated on the side of a hill
+looking over the river. It is now nearly deserted.
+The soldiers with baggage pitched a tent below the office
+in the cellar. From the hills above the river, before we
+crossed the Tagus, we saw Castello Branco standing high
+on the hill, and the Moorish ruins. Cernados is like a
+Welsh village of the worst sort: rocks for streets, ruined
+stone houses inhabited in part, and used for quarters.
+Their few architectural large buildings alone constitute
+the difference between these and the worst Welsh or Irish
+villages. From Cernados to this place we again crossed
+a country like a large Bagshot Heath, but by a very
+tolerable good road; adieu.</p>
+
+<p>P.S.—The Captain has just sent me word we must
+start to-morrow instead of the day after; he says that
+the treasure is not safe without the serjeants. Our detachments
+are all foreigners; many are drunk, and have
+quarrelled with the inhabitants!</p>
+
+<p><em>Salamanca, October, 1812.</em>—The first day after leaving
+Castello Branco, we reached Eschalo de Cimo, a pretty,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</span>
+and once a thriving village, with a good church, not so
+much destroyed as damaged; one handsome large house
+in the vicinity belonging to the Squiress, Donna Joanna,
+the best rooms in which were gutted and used as quarters,
+the rest inhabited by two or three families of the better
+kind, with some smart misses among them. The other
+houses mostly in ruins, but still some of them occupied.
+In this place bread was not to be bought, nor even an
+onion! but we fared well, in good rooms, with good fires.
+On our road thither we kept Castello Branco in sight
+nearly all the way; we also saw the distant mountains
+in Spain and Portugal. The road was over a sort of
+Dartmoor, stones, rock, sand, with fern oak a foot high,
+and abundance of apples. The second day we reached
+San Miguel de Cima. The same sort of village as Eschalo
+de Cimo, one good house for quarters, the rest small, and
+generally, like the church, in ruins; but the inhabitants
+were fast returning to it. Here we obtained bread,
+onions, and some hay. The appearance on entering the
+village, with the trees about it, very pleasant. The
+third day’s route was to Memoa, five long leagues. At
+first a good road and picturesque country, with a very
+fine view of Monsanto, with its town and castle on the
+right, and of the other hills grouped with it in the
+distance. Pennamacor, which is almost destroyed, we
+left on our right, about a mile, with its castle, standing
+boldly on the side of a hill, with rock and wood around
+it, and a rich-looking valley below. This is a fine situation,
+backed, as we left it, by Monsanto. We also passed
+Pedrigoa, a large village, nearly destroyed and deserted,
+and at last, after passing over a hill by a horrible road,
+through an oak copse, where we had nearly lost our way,
+we arrived at the heap of ruins called Memoa. This was
+the worst place we had stopped at all the way. There
+was only one room in the town, that only water-tight,
+and there were no stables. I took the driest corner<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</span>
+in a large common room, because there was a stable
+under it.</p>
+
+<p>I could see and hear everything in the stables, for the
+floor was still less tight than the roof. The leg of a
+chair or a table, in spite of all possible care, went two or
+three times through it. I got a little hay, and slept
+behind a great chest, in my blanket. Three of the natives
+were in the room at night. The fourth day we had three
+leagues of fine road, though bad travelling, through a
+hilly wood of arbutuses in bearing, and Portugal laurels
+in flower, heath in bloom, a plant like the lignum vitæ,
+and broom. This day’s route brought us to Sabugal,
+where there is generally a halt, but this our captain declined.
+Sabugal stands on a hill, very finely situated,
+but commanded by other hills; the way is over a bridge
+and river, and with a winding road up to it. The situation
+is not unlike that of Ludlow; the town very inferior
+in size and beauty, but picturesque. The castle itself
+with its square Moorish towers, more so than Ludlow.
+The town is all in ruins; not even a weather-tight room
+in it. I got a large sort of barn, open in the roof in
+several places, with no doors, and two large windows,
+without even shutters, and four others half closed. On
+our road thither from Memoa we found half the body of
+a man, nearly a skeleton, but with flesh and nails on the
+toes. It was lying on the road, as if to scare travellers.</p>
+
+<p>The market-place at Sabugal is, I think, very pretty,
+and everything in it very cheap: this, indeed, was the
+cheapest place through which we had passed. The fifth
+day we reached Aldea da Ponte, the last Portuguese
+village. The road was interesting, as we passed near
+Fuente Guinaldos, so long head-quarters, and Alfayetes,
+also head-quarters. We passed just under Alfayetes, and
+saw Lord Wellington’s house on the side of the hill, with
+the old castle. This place is now in ruins, like the rest.
+We then passed over the plain where our cavalry distinguished<span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</span>
+themselves in a sharp affair with the French.
+Aldea da Ponte is much cleaner than the other villages.</p>
+
+<p>Here we saw more pots, pans, basins, &amp;c., than usual;
+these the people desired us to make use of instead of
+hiding them from us, as was generally done in Portugal.
+On the sixth day, we came, after a short league, to a small
+village on the side of a hill, the first in Spain, then on to
+two or three more, and in less than six leagues we reached
+Ciudad Rodrigo. This town stands on a rise, in an undulating
+sort of rough Salisbury Plain. It is two-thirds
+in ruins, but the public buildings appear to have suffered
+comparatively little, and might, most of them, be restored.
+The entrance to the town is striking. We got an indifferent
+quarter in the suburbs, immediately opposite the
+place where the light battalions entered. The main
+breach was round the corner of our abode. The Spaniards
+had nearly restored these two breaches, but from ill luck
+or neglect both had entirely given way, and there must
+still be some months’ work before they can undo and
+clear enough away to begin to rebuild again. Everything
+was scarce in the town, and the people imposing and
+uncivil. On the seventh day we proceeded to Brondillo,
+where we were obliged to stop, as there were only two
+houses in Castel Legos, to which the route sent us. This
+was by far our worst day’s journey; the distance was
+seven leagues, that is, twenty-eight miles. It took us to
+accomplish this from six in the morning to past three,
+of which time it rained eight hours and a half, nearly
+all that time like a bad English thunder-shower of ten
+minutes’ duration. No coats could keep out the wet,
+and it was accompanied by a strong, cold November wind,
+for the weather for the last week has been as cold as an
+English November. We all suffered, and I have been
+chilly and aguish ever since. We then, for the first time,
+entered a Spanish cabin; and oh! how superior to those
+of Portugal! of Ireland! of Scotland! and if I did not<span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</span>
+consider these cottages as farms and not as cottages, I
+should say of England too! All neat and clean; with
+pots, dishes, boilers in abundance.</p>
+
+<p>The people are proud, but if treated with civility,
+courteous and kind, though they are turned away from
+their own firesides by us and the Portuguese three or
+four nights in the seven. They made us a great fire, and
+did all they could for us. The women seem chatty and
+merry—the men, the handsomest and best-grown, with
+the finest countenances I ever saw, except perhaps in
+Switzerland. We met with the same sort of treatment
+and kindness at the next village. The house belonged to
+the priest, with whom, through the medium of some
+mongrel Latin and Spanish, I managed to converse a
+little. These quarters are some of the best I have had
+since leaving Lisbon; at Togadillo, where the route sent
+us, there was only one good house.</p>
+
+<p>At Robedila, a place out of the road, where we got by
+accident, finding we had passed Togadillo without knowing
+it, all was comfort again. This place the French occupied
+for some time with ten thousand men. We arrived
+yesterday at Salamanca. After the first five leagues from
+Ciudad Rodrigo, which were as rough as Dartmoor, we
+have passed through a country like the neighbourhood of
+Salisbury Plain, only that the villages were much more
+numerous, though several only of three or four houses,
+now nearly all repaired. Not a single large, or, I believe,
+two-storied house, from Ciudad Rodrigo to this place.
+Much of the country now quite a fine green, but a very
+large part in cultivation. The land looked good; about
+midway it consisted of, for five or six leagues, clay, and
+knee-deep: in some places a light soil, or reddish sand;
+with water up to the mules’ bellies, from the heavy rain,
+though it had ceased twenty-four hours. The people
+have plenty of bread and straw, but there are no shops in
+the villages. They only sell to oblige each his own lodger<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</span>
+for the night. Bread was threepence a pound—it had
+been fourpence. All along this country, from St. Martin
+de Rio hither, are abundance of acorns, almost as good as
+chestnuts; quite sweet. The muleteers and men halt to
+eat them. This also gives good fires everywhere. Horses
+and bones are strewed more or less along the whole way
+from Lisbon. In one place, about seven leagues from
+Salamanca, were thirteen heads arranged in a row, as
+stepping-blocks for passengers through the water. I
+believe there was a little cavalry brush there. Salamanca
+stands well, but in a sort of Salisbury Plain. The colleges
+are destroyed, but the church is most beautiful, and
+the entrances much finer than those of our cathedrals—the
+figures and heads very fine indeed.</p>
+
+<p>The altered Roman bridge is striking. The town is
+so full, principally of sick, that I have got bad quarters,
+half a mile out of the town; my direction l’Ultima Casa.</p>
+
+<p><em>Later, same day.</em>—I have been again looking at the
+town. The great church is very fine, and not damaged,
+but there are many miserable ruins of noble colleges,
+some gutted, some nearly razed. The public library has
+a fair supply of books, but too exclusively of sacred,
+or rather ecclesiastical literature; there are, however,
+good classics, French, and modern learned works, mathematics,
+and others: it is about two-thirds of the size
+of Trinity College, Cambridge. I hope to proceed the
+day after to-morrow, to Valladolid, which it is proposed
+to reach in seven days. There are good shops here, and
+articles not dear. It is curious to see the same effect
+of ages and of tastes as in England. Below and behind
+the great altar of the church was some old English, or,
+as we should say, Saxon architecture, that is, a rude imitation
+of Greek. Then came a florid sample of Gothic,
+not in the best taste, but beautifully ornamented, with
+screens, &amp;c., in the style of King Charles and King William;
+forced Grecian again, of two centuries back.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="fs80" style="margin-left: 2em; text-indent: -2em;">Arrival at Head-quarters—Ciudad Rodrigo—The Retreat—Its Disasters—Capture
+of General Paget—Personal Anecdotes—Scarcity of Provisions—Courts-martial
+in the Army—Business of a Judge-Advocate—Wellington.</p>
+
+<p class="right fs80">
+Head-quarters, Rueda, Nov. 5, 1812.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p class="no-indent">
+<span class="smcap">My dear M——</span>,
+</p>
+
+<p><span style="padding-left: 2em">At</span> last I have arrived safely at head-quarters, as
+they have been kind enough to come half-way to meet
+me. From Salamanca, we proceeded on the first day
+to Alba de Tormes, a town in a fine situation on the
+Tormes, with the remains of a castle of various dates,
+extensive and picturesque; part of it, particularly the
+entrance staircase, very richly ornamented. The whole
+was striking, and the vicinity of the town was interesting,
+for here it was that the French so completely
+beat the unhappy Spaniards, and put them to death by
+thousands, almost in cold blood. We saw where General
+del Parques’ cavalry were posted, and the positions
+of the French. On our road near Salamanca we also
+observed at a distance, on the other side of the river,
+the hills where the battle of Salamanca was fought; and
+our route lay in that of the pursuit through Alba, then
+on to Peneranda, another good old town, and so, through
+villages, to Arevalo, where we arrived in four days,
+tracing men’s bones and bits of soldiers’ dress, as well as
+horse bones and carcasses, on the route thither.</p>
+
+<p>This country resembles Salisbury Plain, in open cultivation
+of corn, and is covered very thick with neat<span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</span>
+villages, with a general appearance of comfort. Arevalo
+is a large place in ruins. There are many remains of
+fine richly-wooded brickwork, convents, churches, many
+good houses, and the town standing very finely on a hill,
+nearly surrounded by the river, which runs in a deep
+hollow round it, with four or five substantial and rather
+picturesque bridges. Our route was by Valladolid,
+where we should have been in three days, and which I
+regret much not to have seen, for I hear it is second only
+to Madrid, and very little damaged. Had I proceeded
+on the route I should have reached Valladolid the day
+before the French entered it. Hearing that the army
+was rapidly retiring, the road became unsafe. No one
+knew where head-quarters were to be; the treasure, and
+my mules with it, were consequently halted, and instructions
+were written for. For four days we remained at
+Arevalo. The treasure party were then ordered to
+Olmedo to deliver their cargo, and head-quarters were
+here at Rueda. I proceeded with them to Olmedo,
+rather a handsome and a large town, where I was housed
+in the good quarters which had been occupied by the
+Prince of Orange. When I arrived here, my beasts
+were kept standing loaded in the streets, and all of us
+without anything to eat until past six, before I could
+get a quarter. The people were civil, but I had to go
+to the Quarter-Master-general, Adjutant-general, to the
+billet-manager, to the Military Secretary, &amp;c. One said,
+“go here;” another, “go there;” a third sent a serjeant
+to inquire, and then thought no more about it.</p>
+
+<p>At last I procured an indifferent quarter vacated by a
+Commissary, only a shed, and holes through the floor
+into the cellar below. My animals, therefore, stood all
+night in the entrance of the passage.</p>
+
+<p>This morning, 5th, I heard of a Spanish aide-de-camp
+of Castanos’, who is here, and who had three small
+stables close to me. I found him in bed at nine o’clock,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</span>
+but he could speak French, and I persuaded him to
+give me one of the stables for my four animals. Thus
+we are better off to-day, and, as a favour, I have got
+them something to eat. I was introduced to Lord
+Wellington this morning, and delivered my letters. He
+was very courteous. We conversed for half an hour,
+and I am to dine with him at six to-day, in full uniform.
+He is to send me fifty cases against officers, to examine,
+in order to ascertain whether any can be made out on
+evidence, which is the great difficulty. There is a
+caricature here of Johnny Newcome, who makes it out
+till sent to the rear rolled up in a blanket in an ox-car,
+creeping on at the rate of two miles an hour to Lisbon.
+We are in hourly expectation of moving. The bridges
+are repaired, and the French within three leagues, and
+able to cross if they choose. General Hill is expected
+here to-day. His forces are at Arevalo. Soult is in
+Madrid; whether they push on further is to be seen.</p>
+
+<p>Few reinforcements have arrived; eighteen thousand
+Spaniards (such as they are) are with us. The lower
+classes of the people are a very fine race in person,
+talents, and feelings, and vastly superior to the Portuguese.
+It is very provoking that rank and prejudice
+render this of no avail. The inhabitants of the town
+seem half French. About six hundred French crossed
+over to us last night, but retired again. The cavalry
+were off in the middle of the night from head-quarters.
+I was alarmed for a moment, but all seems quiet this
+morning. The last five days have been very fine; cold
+dewy mornings, but clear sunny days, damp cold evenings,
+but for the time of the year here very fine. There
+are very queer-looking military figures here, some
+English, a few Portuguese, many more Spanish. The
+whole scene presents an odd medley.</p>
+
+<p><em>Ciudad Rodrigo, November 19, 1812.</em>—To continue
+my diary from Rueda. Two days afterwards, the 7th,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</span>
+an order to march at four in the morning came, as soon
+as Hill’s army was within reach. I then first saw what it
+was to put seventy thousand men in motion, about ten
+thousand public, and a greater number of private mules,
+horses, &amp;c. At five we started, and about two that day
+I reached head-quarters. Torricello by four o’clock.
+At five next morning started again for Petueja. Here
+the head-quarters had only thirty houses for one hundred
+and fifty officers. Lord Wellington and the Prince
+of Orange had only one room each. I was ordered a
+league in advance, where I found Castanos, who had
+come in for better quarters. He sent me on another
+half-league, but when a mile on the road he passed me,
+as he had heard that the next was the best quarter. So
+I returned, and at three o’clock got a little hole and a
+stable. About five came in about three thousand
+Spanish troops. Half my house was down in a moment
+for firing, and nearly all the owner’s property, pans,
+dishes, straw, &amp;c., stolen. I secured mine, which was
+attacked, by swallowing a mouthful and packing up and
+keeping guard. The remainder of the house was also
+saved; and, by the help of a Spanish officer, who took a
+fancy to the kitchen fire, the house was cleared with fist
+and foot. My animals were not safe, as my man heard
+one soldier say he would have one before morning. I
+saved them by putting them in a row in the passage
+close to me, where they stood for the night. Fires all
+round us; noises of all kinds; people breaking in.
+There were only about six civilians, English, in the
+village. At five next day off again, and at daylight
+joined the general train on the road to Salamanca. It
+was easily found, for it extended five or six miles.</p>
+
+<p>The day before we again started three cases were laid
+before me on which to draw charges. Upon these I was
+to report to Lord Wellington next day. I drew them
+up, but he was too busy to receive them. When I went<span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</span>
+home and sent for a paper, the answer was, “All packed
+up;” and it seemed that I ought to be so too, as our
+position was turned, and we were all ordered to be loaded
+and ready to start. After much hurry, I was ready soon
+after twelve. My beasts stood loaded at the door till
+seven in the evening; then came orders to unload, but
+to be loaded by four next morning, and to start for a hill
+a league off, and there wait for orders. There was only
+one long bridge to pass the whole army, and it was near
+seven before we were all over.</p>
+
+<p>It rained hard. We stood on the hill loaded and waiting
+for orders till one o’clock. Nearly the whole of our
+army was in sight round us, cooking their dinners in
+the rain, in their new position. The French were all
+around, about a league off, their fires visible in the woods,
+and the heads of their columns visible with a glass.
+They would not attack us, as they might, but manœuvred
+to turn our right wing. Had there been a
+battle we should have had a fine view of the beginning
+at least. At one o’clock we saw our whole army break up
+and put itself in motion; and orders came to us to march
+and keep with the second column. This we did, marching
+in the rain, in a fine confusion, till five o’clock, when
+Lord Wellington halted at a miserable place for head-quarters,
+and the men bivouacked on the swampy ground.
+I was ordered on a league further. Darkness soon came
+on, and the rain descended in torrents. Misdirected by
+some Spanish muleteers, I lost my way, and did not
+reach any village for three leagues, and not till nine at
+night, wet and starved, as the Salamanca people, in our
+confusion, stole my bread, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>I was the only English officer there, and got the best
+quarter at the parish priest’s, the best house there.
+Here I procured a loaf of bread, fire, and a bed, which
+were no small comforts. I got, however, but little sleep,
+not knowing how to proceed next day, and being aware<span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</span>
+that the French were close at hand. By my map I
+found that I was in the nearest road to Ciudad Rodrigo,
+and, taking a retreat to be the object, I determined to
+wait till eight or nine o’clock next day, and observe
+whether any one passed. By that time half the army
+was on the road through the village, and Sir Edward
+Paget took my quarter for the last night’s rest he had
+before he was taken prisoner. I then had a short march
+in the rain again this day to Aldea Quella and to Boleado.
+In two hours’ time I got a quarter through Colonel
+Campbell’s influence; and because the stables would not
+hold a large horse, all the mules, half the servants, all
+the soldiers, and most of the officers, were out in the wet.
+Three Spanish officers burst into my quarters at night,
+and the people were hammering at the door every moment
+for straw, shelter, &amp;c., sick and all sorts. In spite
+of my vigilance, either the Spanish officers or the people
+of the house stole my pistols out of my room, and finished
+by purloining the bread and rum of my men. Honesty
+is not a Spanish virtue. We all of us lose things daily.
+At two next day we loaded, and at three started for this
+place, twenty miles, four hours before daylight. Luckily
+we had some moon. I stuck to Lord Wellington’s carriage
+and baggage, thinking the people in charge of them
+would be best informed, though my own inquiries elicited
+other intelligence than theirs.</p>
+
+<p>I was told the rivers that way were not passable, and
+we found the whole road almost under water for miles,
+ankle, and even knee deep, and three rivers to pass.
+Many mules were upset or stuck fast, and much baggage
+damaged or lost. I had only one load overset, and that
+at the edge, and we saved all, and not much damage
+done. By daylight there was a general halt; no one
+knew the ford or the road. At last we passed the river
+a mile above; but then, finding the French had been in
+the village three miles off the last night, we all turned<span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</span>
+off by a by-road six miles round, and at last arrived here
+at Ciudad Rodrigo, miserably cold, with animals knocked
+up, sore backs, &amp;c., about two o’clock. In the confusion
+here, at last I got a bad quarter in the same house with
+Colonel Gordon, Lord Wellington’s aide-de-camp. But
+I have a place for my animals, and hundreds have no
+room for animals, or even for themselves. We halt to-day,
+whether for a longer time I know not. The army
+is mostly passing the river to-day. We lost many men
+in the retreat, but a very little money is missing. The
+sick are numerous. Two officers have died of fatigue on
+the road, in which dead mules are to be met with in
+plenty, and some men. To-day we are relating our adventures.
+We get but little barley for our horses, no
+hay or straw. The cavalry have been without it for
+some days; but this is considered a very orderly retreat.
+Sir Edward Paget accidentally fell into the enemy’s
+hands near his own division, within six hundred yards of
+it, between that and another. The French are said to
+have ninety thousand men, with nine thousand cavalry.
+They pressed hard until yesterday; they then relaxed
+when they might have done us most mischief. The
+roads and weather, I suppose, and the want of food and
+forage, impeded them. I hope they will now leave us
+quiet. I am very sorry for Sir Edward Paget on the
+public account and on my own, as I found him most
+friendly, civil, and good-natured. This capture is also a
+triumph to the French.</p>
+
+<p><em>Malliarda de Sorda, November 26th, 1812.</em>—We are
+now in our winter quarters, and fill all the villages and
+places for twenty miles round on the Portugal side of
+Ciudad Rodrigo, the works of which are still quite out of
+repair where our trenches were made, as the Spanish new
+work has all fallen in. Wellington’s head-quarters are
+at Frenada, an old station; the doctors are all at Castello
+Bom; and the other civil departments, in which I am<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</span>
+included, all at this place, Malliarda de Sorda. We are
+distant four miles of most infamous rocky road from
+Frenada, and eight from Castello Bom. This I fear
+must shut me off from nearly all society, as it would be
+paying most dear for a dinner at Frenada or Castello
+Bom, to return in the dark, along roads compared with
+which those of Ireland or Cornwall are bowling-greens.
+We are in three wretched villages, in a country like Dartmoor,
+but more wood near, all rocks around, and stone-wall
+enclosures, and rocky roads; then woods, with open
+wastes for twenty miles round. I have a room opening
+to the street, without ceiling, only open loose pantiles,
+with holes to let out the smoke of a fireplace without a
+chimney; a window tinned up by last year’s occupier,
+except four small panes, two of which are broken; there
+is a hole in the floor to look through at my five animals
+and three servants, who all sleep on the straw below me.</p>
+
+<p>The weather for the last three days has been a complete
+English December, cutting easterly winds; and on
+the 23rd I will vouch for ice three-quarters of an inch
+thick. All the Sierras are white with snow. I found
+Lord Wellington’s secretaries sitting with candles at
+twelve o’clock in the day, in order to stop their holes and
+windows with curtains, and burning charcoal fires. We
+have had every variety of weather here in six weeks: I
+never remember it colder in England for the time of the
+year. Here are no books, no women but ladies of a certain
+description; and as to living, you would be surprised
+what good living is here, except at Lord Wellington’s
+table, and about two more, and even at those no port
+wine, only thin claret, and the country wines and brandy.</p>
+
+<p>At Ciudad Rodrigo there was starvation: no corn, no
+hay, no straw, no bread, no rum, for three days, only
+beef and biscuit; at last we got some mouldy biscuit for
+the animals, which I mixed with carrot, cabbage, and
+potatoes; everything was devoured. Tea, 22<em>s.</em> and 25<em>s.</em><span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</span>
+a pound; butter, 4<em>s.</em>; bread, 1<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> a pound, above 6<em>s.</em>
+the loaf; no wine or brandy; gin, 12<em>s.</em> the bottle; straw,
+a dollar for a small bundle, and all sold in a scramble.
+The truth was, the troops, poor fellows! came through
+the town quite starving; during the retreat supplies had
+been mismanaged—regiments were three and four days
+without rations, and numbers died of absolute starvation,
+besides the sick. Lord Wellington is, I hear, very angry.
+Till I saw B—’s mess, &amp;c., I had no notion of the loss
+in this retreat, and the great suffering of the men and
+horses. From what I hear, not merely were about one
+thousand made prisoners, but five or six thousand put
+for some time <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">hors de combat</i>, by sickness, starvation, and
+want of horses, &amp;c. The cavalry were too weak to act,
+mainly from want of food. A great many animals were
+killed. A treasure-party had a narrow escape: the
+French were in sight while they were loading, and much
+baggage was lost. Lord Dalhousie lost almost all; five
+horses and thirteen loaded mules, with his name at full
+length upon his baggage—another French triumph!
+Colonel Delancey lost three horses, taken at Salamanca;
+and the men suffered shockingly from the wet. The
+whole was so unlucky; as had the three days’ rain begun
+at Salamanca, in all probability the French would not
+have crossed the Tormes and turned our position, and we
+might still have been there; and had they come three
+days later, we should have saved our three or four thousand
+sick. We should, moreover, have had good roads
+and dry nights, no floods and torrents to wade through
+by day, nor swamps to sleep on by night; in fact, we
+should only have lost drunken stragglers. The distress
+at Madrid, after all the joy and gaiety, was dreadful.
+When we left the town sixty thousand poor were contending
+for the remains of our stores—the worst objects
+had the preference given them. King Joseph’s Palace
+was left by him entirely furnished; and as Lord Wellington<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</span>
+made a point that he should find it again the same,
+nothing was touched by our army.</p>
+
+<p><em>The 26th.</em>—To-day is a cheerful, frosty, Christmas-day,
+and within an English farm-house the whole would do
+very well: but I go, like others, to bed at seven o’clock,
+to keep myself warm. General Castanos and his troops
+are gone back to Gallicia, which is one grievance removed
+at least. Ballasteros is in disgrace at Ceuta, for disobedience.
+I fear, upon the whole, the Spanish cause
+has suffered much by our advance to Madrid and Burgos.
+The people find we cannot support them, and will be
+very shy in future; and the misery of the peasantry and
+townspeople all the time is extreme. There are few
+deceptions in England like that about the life in Spain.</p>
+
+<p><em>Frenada, Head-Quarters, December 8th, 1812.</em>—I will
+now tell you one day’s adventure and how I came here.
+Two days after writing from Malliarda de Sorda, where I
+was lonely and heard nothing, I determined to walk over
+to see how things went on here, and put my papers into
+my pocket in case I should be able to see Lord Wellington.
+On my arrival I met the Quarter-Master who
+managed quarters: he told me he had kept a miserable
+hole for me, if I chose to move; it was much worse than
+even my old one, but I instantly said “<span class="smcap">Yes</span>.” The next
+person I met was Lord Wellington, and I asked him
+when he wished to see me, and whether he had any
+objection to my moving here? He said I might take my
+choice and take the best of the bad. He then asked
+whether I had my papers about me? I said, “All.”
+“Come up,” said he then; and in ten minutes he looked
+over my papers, which consisted of four sets of charges
+against officers. These were all settled with a few
+judicious alterations, in which I entirely agreed. I then
+came out and wrote them fair in the Adjutant-general’s
+office, and two were sent off to Lisbon that day.</p>
+
+<p>On my way home I found a Portuguese half drunk,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</span>
+killing his wife. He had bruised her, and laid her head
+open with a large stone; this occurred on the open road.
+As I was not in full strength from the effects of a recent
+accident, I could only gently interfere, and the brute
+persisted in his cruelty. A servant then came by on
+horseback who struck him with a good stout stick; but
+the fellow turned on him, and hit him with a great stone
+on the head. Thereupon two dragoons, who saw the
+whole affair, came up, and were going to cut the Portuguese
+down, when I begged them only to use the backs
+of their sabres, which they did sharply, and brought him
+into the village.</p>
+
+<p>I have dined again with Lord Wellington, and at
+Castello Bom with Dr. Macgregor, whence I walked
+home with Colonel Colin Campbell at ten at night with
+a lantern, over rocks and streams. I have also seen
+Lord Wellington again, twice, about charges; but I
+understand I am not to go over to some Courts-martial
+which he has just fixed to take place in ten days, at two
+divisions, about forty miles from hence, but to stay here.
+He is shortly, as general report says, going to Cadiz or
+somewhere. At Lord Wellington’s we had a curious
+conversation, about himself, Canning and his speeches,
+and Vetus’s letters in the <cite>Times</cite>.<a id="FNanchor_1" href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> He joined in and
+indeed led the conversation, as if talking of persons and
+things he was not connected with, but seemed not satisfied
+with the Ministry, though he did not favour the
+opposition. He said he took in the <cite>Courier</cite> to know
+what government meant to do, &amp;c., and as a decent paper
+to show General Castanos.</p>
+
+<p>It has not lately been very cold; indeed, we had four
+or five charming days, but the rain has now begun again;
+but want of all books and society is the worst. The
+little conversation here beyond the topics of the day is of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</span>
+a review a year old, or a pamphlet. The dress here is a
+cap made of velvet, cloth, and fur, with a peak over the
+eyes (that is a foraging cap); the handsomest are all of
+fur, dark or grey fur, the former the best, with a broad
+gold band and tassel on the top. With this is worn a
+dress great coat, or plain, with military buttons, grey
+pantaloons; this is the costume for dinners. Morning
+dress—overalls, boots, and white or more generally fancy
+waistcoats; in winter blue and black velvet, or cloth,
+with fancy buttons of gold, and narrow stripes of gold as
+an edging. There are four suttlers here, who sell everything,
+and we are, all things considered, well supplied.
+We have one little Exeter-Change shop, but all very dear;
+pepper and mustard dear, a small sauce bottle 7<em>s.</em>, tea
+three dollars a pound, cheese 4<em>s.</em> a pound, porter 5<em>s.</em> a
+bottle, gin and brandy 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>, port wine 6<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>, milk 1<em>s.</em>
+a quart, salt-butter 3<em>s.</em> a pound, sugar 1<em>s.</em> 8<em>d.</em>, pork (no
+other meat) 1<em>s.</em> 8<em>d.</em> a pound, oil 5<em>s.</em> a quart. These are
+the prices here at <em>head-quarters</em>. Remember that distinction;
+not the national prices.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Frenada, December 31st, 1812.</em>—For
+the last month I have really been too busy to write. During
+the last week, before Lord Wellington went away, he
+kept me hard at work, and left directions to endeavour
+to get rid of all the cases pending for Courts-martial.
+About thirty-two cases were made over to me, some of
+nearly two years’ standing. We have now a Court
+sitting at Lisbon, one in the second division at Coria,
+one in the seventh at Govea, and another here which I
+attend myself four miles off at Fuentes d’Onore. I have
+sent six to Lisbon, five to the seventh division, five to
+the second, and intended taking seven myself to Fuentes
+d’Onore; the rest have in some way been arranged.
+Hitherto we have made little progress from the sickness,
+which keeps back witnesses. I have only myself tried
+one, and hope to finish to-morrow. One charge is of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</span>
+that of a mad Commissary, whose trial was put off last
+week, on account of his being raving. He wrote to the
+Adjutant-general a mad letter, amongst other things
+telling him that he had ten thousand men, that he
+might drive all head-quarters to “Nebuchadnezzar’s
+fiery furnace, where,” he added, “Lord Wellington and
+you may sit at the head of the table.” I served him
+myself with his notice of trial; he appeared very wild,
+and I have great doubts how he will behave.</p>
+
+<p>I have had long instructions to write to the three
+other Judge-Advocates and summonses for witnesses
+to send to every regiment and to the Commandants
+about here, and that over and over again. As fast as
+one prisoner or witness got well, another became sick,
+and half the cases are now pending in this way. Then
+comes a long case to abstract for Lord Wellington;
+then an opinion for the Adjutant-general by return of
+post. For these three weeks I have been writing nearly
+seven hours a day, circulating copies of the charges to
+prisoners, to the Courts, and to the prosecutors, and
+much of my labour is thrown away by the sickness of
+the prisoners and witnesses. I have nine here in the
+Provost’s hands for trial, and five are in the hospital—one
+just dead. There is one comfort, the reflection that
+such a press of business is never likely to recur. The
+<cite>Gazette</cite> and newspapers you sent me afforded me considerable
+amusement and comfort. Since Lord Wellington
+has been absent, Colonel Colin Campbell remains
+to do the honours and invite at the great house. I
+spent Christmas-day there, and have dined several times.
+Besides a good dinner and the best society, I there hear
+the latest news and get honour. The party is now very
+small.</p>
+
+<p>After ten days of horrible damp, cold, rainy weather,
+we have now a thoroughly good genuine English frost,
+with an east wind, quite like an old friend in England;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</span>
+but the sun has some power, so that it is like our frosts
+in February rather than Christmas. We see here very
+few of the officers. Just before Lord Wellington went
+he was angry at all the applications for leave of absence,
+observing, “A pretty army I have here! They all want
+to go home: but no more shall go except the sick.” As
+the sick are now fast recovering, I may mention what I
+did not like to do a month ago, that the returns of the
+sick were then between nineteen and twenty thousand!
+You would have no idea of this. I have dined here
+with Major and Mrs. Scobell, the only lady here. I
+have also dined with Lord Aylmer, the acting Adjutant-general
+here, who is very civil. The Commissary, Mr.
+H——, keeps a good table, and often asks me. Dr.
+H—— is our doctor now at head-quarters—a sensible
+man. Lord March has lent me two volumes of Goldsmith’s
+works.</p>
+
+<p>Castanos’ army went back in an orderly manner.
+Our Commissary reports well of them, and of the
+country, where, he says (that is, in the Tras os Montes),
+there is an abundance of bread, poultry, turkeys, &amp;c.,
+and of many things we have no notion of here. They
+have procured two turkeys at head-quarters this Christmas,
+and have had mince-meat in tins by the post from
+Lisbon.</p>
+
+<p>We send to the woods for firing, and bring it home
+on the mules, and send out from four to six leagues,
+that is, from sixteen to twenty-four miles, for hay or
+straw. Ten pounds of straw a-day is the allowance for
+the animals, but I fear it will not hold out, as the
+villages are now nearly all emptied. We shall soon
+have to get little bundles of dry grass, which are already
+brought to our splendid market for sale. The Lamego
+wine is the only wine which I can drink with comfort,—it
+is a sort of port. The Sierra di Francia is the
+next best,—a much lighter wine, from the Sierras<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</span>
+towards Madrid, from hence between thirty and forty
+miles off.</p>
+
+<p>Lord Wellington, whom I saw every day for the last
+three or four days before he went, I like much in
+business affairs. He is very ready, and decisive, and
+civil, though some complain a little of him at times, and
+are much afraid of him. Going up with my charges
+and papers for instructions, I feel something like a boy
+going to school. I expect to have a long report to make
+on his return.</p>
+
+<p>I hear a good account of Ballasteros’s army: that it is
+better equipped than that of Castanos’. I wish it had
+done more. The French are supposed still to have
+about a hundred and eighty thousand men in the Peninsula.
+I do not believe their force in this neighbourhood
+has increased or diminished. Some have receded to
+Vittoria, but have been traced by the spies (of whom we
+have one constantly at Burgos) no further, nor have
+many supplies of men to any amount been discovered,
+I believe. We have some difficulty in getting fed;
+bread in the markets is about 9<em>d.</em> a pound; barley for
+the horses very scarce: we often go without for two
+days. A commissary-agent is now in Salamanca buying
+bread. The villages between Rodrigo and Salamanca,
+described in my journey, are, it is said, quite destroyed.
+We did much, the French the rest. Pork is the only
+thing abundant, about 1<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> per pound, very rich but
+too fat, and the fat not firm; the flesh sweeter and
+richer than that of our pork, from the acorns on which
+the swine feed, and which are like chestnuts.</p>
+
+<p>I was a little nervous at the first Court-martial, but it
+went off pretty well, and I got the whole over and
+brought away eight sides of notes in three hours. To-morrow
+I take my fair copy to be signed, &amp;c. In my
+way to this Court-martial, Henry and I were puzzled by
+a river which seemed to be over our necks,—a deep hole<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</span>
+off a rock. At last I made out a way zigzag, only about
+three feet deep; there was no one near or on either side;
+I should have had a swim, I am told, as people are sometimes
+drowned there. A ducking the first time of my
+appearance in public would have been awkward.</p>
+
+<p>Two cases have just been brought in to me; they are
+for shooting natives, one an alcalde. Adieu.</p>
+<br>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_1" href="#FNanchor_1" class="label">[1]</a> It was generally supposed that these celebrated letters, often compared
+to those of Junius, were written by Lord Wellesley.</p>
+
+</div>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</span></p>
+
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="fs80" style="margin-left: 2em; text-indent: -2em;">Arrival of the Gazette—More Courts-martial—The Mad Commissary—Intentions
+of Lord Wellington—Social Amusements—Sporting—Wellington’s
+Fox-hounds—His Stud—A Dinner at the Commander-in-Chief’s—Number
+of Courts-martial—Anecdotes of Wellington.</p>
+
+<p class="right fs80">
+Head-quarters, Frenada, Jan. 3, 1813.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p class="no-indent">
+<span class="smcap">My dear M——</span>,
+</p>
+
+<p><span style="padding-left: 2em">In</span> hopes of giving you letters every week, I must
+seize every odd half-hour to write in, and you must not
+be nice as to my writing, &amp;c., as my hand is quite tired
+of the regular official style, and my fingers cold, for we
+still have fine, clear, frosty weather; but in the middle
+of the day it is very pleasant.</p>
+
+<p>Pray thank John very much for his parcel of newspapers,
+and especially for that of the 17th December,
+with the <cite>Gazette</cite>, &amp;c., and the glorious news. I was the
+only person here with a paper of the 17th. Head-quarters
+had only that of the evening of the 16th with
+the <cite>Gazette</cite>; and though this was, in fact, much the same,
+this was an event—and I sent mine up to Colonel
+Campbell, by his desire, for his dinner-party at head-quarters.
+It has been in constant request ever since.</p>
+
+<p>All the Guerilla party reports here state, that a body
+of French cavalry has left Spain for France, for some
+purpose. They say that from three to four thousand
+men are gone; this agrees with your story; but our
+Portuguese Quarter-Master, from his spies, reports otherwise.
+The forces in this neighbourhood are now but<span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</span>
+small; about four hundred men in Salamanca, which,
+by-the-by, has been much plundered; and the English
+dollars, which they extorted from the hungry troops by
+their high prices, pretty well squeezed out of them. At
+Segovia there are only one thousand men, more at Valladolid,
+and a force at Madrid, and thus dispersed about;
+but as to their being starved, their country is much
+better, I believe, than ours; and as I have already told
+you, our Commissary goes to Salamanca for bread. The
+light division near this place, and troop of Horse Artillery,
+have had scarcely any corn for their horses for the
+three last weeks, and the cavalry will not be fit to act
+much before April and May.</p>
+
+<p>Yesterday a great event occurred here—the arrival of
+a Guerilla chief, who was formerly a sort of smuggler or
+robber. This man, whose name, I believe, is Sumeil,
+attacked a French party, carrying despatches from King
+Joseph to France, at a village near Valladolid, at twelve
+o’clock at night. He came in upon the French by surprise,
+and the plan succeeded. The despatches were seized,
+some of them on the person of the courier, but the most
+material in a secret place in the pummel of a saddle. A
+little spring in the buckle of the brass ornament discovered
+a keyhole, and in the saddle was the pocket to
+conceal the papers. They are principally in cipher, but
+some have been made out, and are, I understand,
+important. I have heard the contents of only one letter
+from King Joseph to the family in France, full of complaints
+of want of money and much distress; he states
+that he cannot get a dollar. From eighty to a hundred
+prisoners were taken by the party. These prisoners were
+French, and two English officers were released. The
+French were much irritated, and sent eleven squadrons
+of cavalry after the Guerilla chief, but he got off with
+most of his prisoners, booty, despatches, and party.
+Only one or two of the officers, and a few of the Guerilla<span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</span>
+privates, have yet arrived here, but more, with the
+prisoners, are expected shortly. Sumeil expects to be
+made a General for this. He was at first very shy of
+suffering the aide-de-camp and Colonel Campbell to look
+at his despatches, desiring to show them to Lord Wellington
+in person; nor could he consent to give up the
+most important, until General O’Lalor, who was at
+Ciudad Rodrigo, was sent for, and explained matters to
+him. I was to have met them at head-quarters at dinner
+the day of their arrival, but they were busily engaged at
+cards when sent for; and said they were tired, and
+declined going out to dinner. I was very sorry for this,
+as it would have been curious to see their manners at a
+formal dinner.</p>
+
+<p>I have sent out my mules and Portuguese to forage.
+They now are obliged to go so far for it that they cannot
+get home by night, and soon, I fear, must stay out some
+days. I must get another horse; Colonel C—— has a
+handsome Spanish horse to sell, strong, showy, and, considering
+the price of horses here, not very dear, two
+hundred and fifty dollars; it is a sort of a Rubens, sleek,
+black, manège horse, with a fine, thick, curved, sleek,
+black neck.</p>
+
+<p>I take my morning walk daily, from eight till nine, to
+secure some exercise, whilst Henry lights my fire and gets
+breakfast ready. Instead of the gravel walk at Sheen or
+in Lincoln’s Inn gardens, it is a stroll over the rocks,
+down towards the Coa river, which is almost two miles
+from hence, and in parts is wild and picturesque; large
+masses of rock, rounded by the weather, stunted trees,
+stone-wall enclosures, a succession of ravines, and ruined
+fortified villages on the hills at a distance; for Castello
+Bom, Castello Mendas, Castello Rodrigues, and Almeyda,
+which, as well as Guarda, are in sight from the rocky hill,
+half a mile from hence. Behind the whole, the sierras of
+Portugal and Spain, now generally covered with snow.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</span>
+By these means, and with a hasty ride or walk now and
+then in the middle of the day, my health is certainly
+better. The work, except on account of health, I have
+no sort of objection to: I only lament the delay in the
+proceedings, on account of the sickness of the prisoners
+and witnesses. However, I may have been of some use
+in law lecturing, and helping the other Deputy Judge-Advocates;
+and no trouble has been spared by me in
+facilitating matters.</p>
+
+<p>If the news from Russia be good to the extent supposed,
+it is thought here that the French will withdraw from
+hence this spring, at least behind the Ebro. This, however,
+I much doubt; though it seems agreed that, at any
+rate, we are not in a state to follow, without very great
+disadvantage, and almost destruction to our cavalry.</p>
+
+<p><em>January the 4th.</em>—There are strong reports, as I have
+said, that the French are retiring; but General O’Lalor,
+whom I have just seen, tells me his accounts are otherwise,
+and that no French have left, or are leaving Spain; on
+the contrary, he assured me that the intercepted letters
+from Soult state that the contest will, in the next campaign,
+be between the Douro and the Tagus. D’Aranda de
+Duero is therefore to be fortified, and made a good depôt,
+until the Emperor can send reinforcements enough to
+enable them to enter Portugal. The French head-quarters
+are at Madrid, nor does it appear that there is
+any intention at present to give it up, though the Spaniards
+thought otherwise from some letters of Soult, who
+ordered some of his men, detachments of his corps, and
+letters, to be sent to him from Valencia, but this seems
+to be only to complete his own corps. General O’Lalor
+told me that a muleteer of Paget’s had just arrived from
+Bayonne, with a pass, which he showed me, for him to
+return to Portugal as Sir Edward Paget’s muleteer. This
+man says the French on the frontiers were told that our
+retreat was a rout, our loss immense, and that sixteen<span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</span>
+thousand prisoners had been taken, who were said to be
+on the road; he added that many were fools enough to
+go several leagues to see them, and found they were
+about two thousand five hundred; they also reported
+that the Commander-in-Chief, Lord Paget, was taken.<a id="FNanchor_2" href="#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a></p>
+
+<p>We are trying to send French gazettes of the Russian
+business to the French army, to give some of them a
+better notion of affairs in that quarter, as it seems the
+armies hear little or nothing from France, and at long
+intervals.</p>
+
+<p><em>January the 6th.</em>—I am just setting out for Fuentes to
+try my mad Commissary, and from the fear of not
+having time before post on my return, I must now close
+my letter.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Frenada, January 16th, 1813.</em>—I was
+so much occupied last week that I could not find time to
+give you one of my usual scrawls before the post-day.
+The business of the mad Commissary’s was finished in
+two long days last week, but I have had a long job in
+copying it fair, as he put in a half-mad defence of five
+sheets in folio. He is now off for Lisbon. I have bought
+Colonel C——’s horse for two hundred and fifty dollars.</p>
+
+<p>Our last accounts from Lord Wellington are Cadiz,
+the 8th. He was going to Lisbon on the 9th or 10th. He
+has taken the command of the Spaniards; and is expected
+here on the 23rd. Lord Fitzroy Somerset seems
+much pleased with Cadiz; I do not know whether Lord
+Wellington is. The Prince of Orange is not yet returned
+from Oporto. He has been very much fêted and entertained;
+there is dancing every night, and he is much
+pleased. Lord March is just returned from thence;
+Colonel G—— from Seville; so we all begin to reassemble
+here. I have just been making out on a large sheet the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</span>
+states of the Courts-martial for Lord Wellington. They
+are thirty-one in number, which are now going on, just
+finished, or which are to proceed when witnesses can be
+collected. At present my place is no sinecure.</p>
+
+<p>The French, they say, have been for some time in
+motion here, but I believe only to forage, &amp;c.; their last
+movements are southward of Madrid and towards Seville
+again, but this is thought to be either a feint or to be for
+the sake of supplies.</p>
+
+<p>Doctor M’Gregor has been a tour to visit the sick; of
+whom I am sorry to say many have died; more than I
+was aware of. He has been as far as Oporto.</p>
+
+<p>I have gone on very smoothly with my Courts-martial.
+General V—— is the President, and has been very civil.
+They are all light infantry, and have been very attentive,
+orderly, and obedient.</p>
+
+<p><em>January 17th.</em>—The house which I now occupy belongs
+to the Portuguese lad who is in my service, and who is
+about eighteen. It is a droll circumstance to live in the
+house of your own servant, who receives six dollars a
+month, and is a tolerable groom. These reverses are here
+very frequent in the fortunes of this class of people. He
+owns three houses here, such as they are—stone barns;
+and his family had sheep, goats, and land.</p>
+
+<p>There is plenty of game about, and we now get woodcocks
+frequently, shot by the officers, very good hares,
+better, I think, than in England, a few good snipes and
+plovers, and a very few partridges; the latter are very
+wild. We have had, off and on, frost for this month and
+more, and some very fine days, others like a London
+November fog, a little snow, and now and then a day’s
+rain; but in eight hours again, from a sudden change of
+wind, all dry and frost. The sun, when out, makes the
+mid-day very pleasant; and though the winds are very
+cold, and produce very hard ground and thick ice for the
+time in a very short period, yet the ice does not continue,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</span>
+as in England, and accumulate. It never gets much
+thicker than it is in one night with a cold wind, and in
+the daytime the ground is soft; the cold, therefore,
+though for a time very sharp, certainly cannot be near so
+intense in reality as in England. We go to bed sometimes
+with the ground entirely wet at eleven o’clock, and
+at six in the morning find there has been a very hard
+frost, which is then going off again.</p>
+
+<p>The population here is very considerably thinned, and
+there is much less land in cultivation than formerly; the
+people remaining have generally lost their flocks and their
+animals for agriculture. Few have now means of ploughing
+and manuring. The vineyards are generally in a
+very neglected state also; not manured or in any way
+attended to, and eaten close down by our hungry animals.
+Yet the labour required is so moderate, and the light soil
+seems so productive, that the country might very soon
+recover itself; but we take the oxen over the whole
+country, buy up, and eat up everything. Out of our reach,
+in the Tras os Montes, are plenty of poultry, sheep,
+turkeys, &amp;c. The Portuguese, naturally lazy, never
+repair the damages of war, never rebuild, clean out, or set
+to work to bring things round. They despair, and only
+just work to supply our market with onions, 4<em>d.</em> each;
+eggs, 3<em>d.</em> each; potatoes alone rather cheap at 2<em>d.</em> the
+pound; pork, 1<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> the pound, and good. The
+Spaniards, on the contrary, begin, very soon after the
+armies go, to restore; they put on their tiles, rebuild
+their walls, and especially whitewash the inside of their
+houses; they collect their cooking-vessels, and get to work
+on their farms. The peasantry recover themselves much
+more and much faster than the Portuguese, but yet they
+have not in any one place suffered so much and so often
+as this part of Portugal has; and in this town they are
+pretty much as lazy as the other.</p>
+
+<p><em>The 20th.</em>—A very interesting case of a poor deserter<span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</span>
+whom we tried yesterday at Fuentes, I must copy out
+fair to carry over to the general president for his signature
+to-morrow. The deserter, poor fellow! deserted for
+love to the Spaniards, with a Spanish girl from the
+neighbourhood of Madrid whom he had brought away
+with him. She had been most honest and faithful in
+very trying scenes during the retreat. On being ordered
+to send her off by his Captain, he appeared to have had
+no intention of going over to the French. I was not
+aware of the merit of his story till I copied the whole out
+fairly. It was translated in broken bits, by a not very
+skilful interpreter. Three deserters came in here yesterday;
+they are Flemings. They report that part of the
+French cavalry are gone to France, and that all the cars
+round Salamanca have been put in requisition to carry off
+the sick from the hospital there. But this does not prove
+much, as it would at any rate be an unsafe place, and out
+of their line of defence next campaign. They state that
+the sick have been very numerous, and Salamanca well
+plundered.</p>
+
+<p>I have been one morning over to Almeyda to breakfast
+with the governor and see the town. At breakfast
+I met a sawny Spanish signora, with a crying, poor-looking
+child: she breakfasted on beefsteaks, onions, partridges,
+and wine, and did nothing all day. Almeyda is
+twelve miles off. I rode thither on my new horse. He
+is just such a horse as you would admire, prancing,
+showy, sleek, like a Flemish picture of a horse, rather
+clumsy and heavy; but he went well and quietly. Almeyda
+is in ruins; a mere heap of rubbish! The works
+are being repaired, and much is already done; but there
+is yet a great deal to do, and the workmen, though well
+watched, seem very lazy. There are very good shops
+among the ruins for the materials of all articles of wearing
+apparel; these from Oporto, and not dear; cloth and
+baize of all sorts, linen, stockings, but not a cup and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</span>
+saucer to be had, or a drinking-glass. Most of the new
+work at Almeyda is at present only earth—slanting so
+that you might run up in a storm, I think; but the
+masonry is going on, and it would cost some men to storm
+it, if we defend it. At present there is only a Portuguese
+garrison.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Frenada, January 23rd, 1813.</em>—I do
+not quite feel as I did in England, nor can I make out
+that others do either. There is a languor and laziness
+which seem in some degree catching from the natives, as
+they have it in such perfection. We have had almost
+constant frost or cold, fog and sleet, but in general clear
+cold days ever since Christmas. It seems that we are
+likely to have some snow, which hitherto we have
+only on the sierras and hills (where it lies almost constantly),
+except a very few storms of snow which melted
+as it fell; and then rain in February; then some warm
+days in March and in April, with very cold mornings and
+nights, and some very cold days again, even so late as in
+May at times. By-the-by, our English post from all
+the different parts of the army, to each other, and to Lisbon,
+is now in general in very good order, which saves
+me much trouble in my extensive correspondence relative
+to the Courts-martial. I have now also got through the
+great worry of the number of cases which came upon me
+at once, and, though fully employed, business comes
+more regularly. I have persevered in being civil and useful
+as far as I could to every one, never objecting to anything,
+answering all queries, and taking everything upon
+myself. I endeavour to model the whole as it was
+arranged in England, before the Adjutant-general’s offices
+did two-thirds of the business of Judge-Advocate. As I
+have no clerk, and am not allowed a soldier, this at times
+presses me hard, but the greatest stress is now over,
+though new cases come in regularly. I yesterday sent in
+one against a Lieutenant-colonel, with six charges and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</span>
+thirty-seven witnesses. I have another Commissary just
+come in here as a prisoner, for purposely burning down a
+house, a mischievous freak, when drunk.</p>
+
+<p>I now dine out about three or four times in the week,
+generally once or twice at head-quarters—and occasionally
+with Major and Mrs. Scobell, who give very pleasant
+little dinners, and tender meat, and a loo party afterwards.
+He is a clever man, in the Quarter-Master-general’s
+department, and has the command of the corps
+of guides, and the arrangement of the English post
+through the country.</p>
+
+<p>The report current now is, that next campaign is to
+be in camp, and not in towns and villages, as Lord Wellington
+wants to keep the army more together than he
+can do in quarters; and unless he goes into camp, the
+other Generals also leave their divisions and come into
+the towns. At any rate, it will not be as it was last
+year, when the men went into camp in February and
+March, as, from general rumour, the army will not be in
+a state to move much before the end of April; nearly
+one-third are still sick, and this state of things mends
+now but slowly; this I observe from the general daily
+state of the whole army made for Lord Wellington, which
+is kept most perfectly. The horses will not be ready till
+they have had a month’s green food in March and April;
+straw, bad hay, and a little Indian corn do not suit them
+for very active service.</p>
+
+<p>I want a neat lantern sent out, to go out after dark in
+these horrible villages, where if you go only a hundred
+yards in the dark you step from a rock half up your legs
+in mud.</p>
+
+<p>There is a shocking set of servants at head-quarters;
+idle, drunken English servants and soldiers, almost all
+bad, and the Portuguese are every day running off with
+something or other from their masters and others.
+There has been no chaplain here for these last eight or<span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</span>
+nine months, or any notice taken in any manner of
+Sunday! It used to be, I hear, a very regular and
+imposing thing to attend divine service performed out of
+doors with hats off, but the people must now think we
+have no religion at all, as almost every public business
+goes on nearly the same as on ordinary days. The
+English soldiers, however, keep it as a holiday, though
+the Portuguese will many of them work, particularly
+after three o’clock. We have had a glee or two with the
+aides-de-camp of the Prince of Orange and some others.
+There is also a Spanish Commissary who sings and plays
+the guitar very well. I wish my violoncello were more
+portable, and, with a flute or two, we should have a little
+music now and then here, in the evenings. They have
+asked me to send for a collection of glees.</p>
+
+<p>People here are all very sore about the Americans and
+our taken frigates. I think we deserve it a little. Our
+contempt for our old descendants and half brothers has
+always rather disgusted me, and with some English is
+carried so far as not to be bearable. This reverse may
+set matters right. The Americans have faults enough;
+we should allow them their merits. Our sailors all
+thought the Americans would not dare to look them in
+the face. I think the army rather rejoice, and laugh
+aside at all this falling on the navy, as they bullied so
+much before. I will not write to you of northern or
+English news, for it would be absurd; you would, if I
+did, receive comments and observations on what was
+nearly forgotten, or entirely altered, by the time my
+letter reached you. I keep this paper under my business
+heap, and take it out and scribble when anything occurs.
+Lord Wellington is to arrive to-day; and I must get up
+my lesson for to-morrow, so adieu!</p>
+
+<p><em>Tuesday.</em>—Lord Wellington arrived last night at six
+o’clock. I saw him with the rest who happened to be
+in the market-place when he came. He was looking well.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</span></p>
+
+<p>There is a great quantity of game around us, and the
+sportsmen supply their tables. It is not mere sport here,
+but more like the case of Robinson Crusoe, a matter of
+necessity. Nearly all our luxuries are thus obtained.
+Commissary H——, two days since, went across the Coa
+for about five hours, and brought home five hares, four
+couple of cocks, three snipes, one partridge, and a rabbit.
+All these animals are remarkably good here, except the
+partridges, which are nothing in comparison to ours, and
+I think not so good as the French. Lord Wellington,
+except presents now and then, buys up all we can get—gives
+8<em>s.</em> for a hare, and so on. Turkeys are only to
+be had thirty miles off: the price, which has been 25<em>s.</em>,
+is now 14<em>s.</em> Powder and shot are very scarce, only a
+little to be had now and then at Almeyda. This you
+will think at the head-quarters of sixty thousand men
+rather strange, but the same stuff which kills men
+will not bring down birds. We have three odd sorts of
+packs of hounds here, and the men hunt desperately:
+firstly, Lord Wellington’s, or, as he is called here, the
+Peer’s; these are fox-hounds, about sixteen couple; they
+have only killed one fox this year, and that was what is
+called mobbed. These hounds, for want of a huntsman,
+straggle about and run very ill, and the foxes run off to
+their holes in the rocks on the Coa. Captain W——
+goes out, stops the holes over-night, halloos, and rides
+away violently. The ground is a light gravel and rock
+all over the country. From a hard rock sometimes the
+horse gets up to his belly in wet gravelly sand; thus we
+have many horses lamed, and some bad falls. The next
+set of hounds are numerous,—greyhounds. The Commissary-general,
+Sir R. Kennedy, is a great man in this
+way, and several others. And thirdly, the Capitan
+Mor here, that is the principal man of the place, has an
+old poacher in his establishment, with a dozen terriers,
+mongrels, and ferrets, and he goes out with the officers<span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</span>
+to get rabbits. Lord Wellington has a good stud of
+about eight hunters; he rides hard, and only wants a
+good gallop, but I understand knows nothing of the
+sport, though very fond of it in his own way. There
+will soon, I hear, be good trout-fishing in the Coa and in
+the streams in the ravines near it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Wednesday, January 27th.</em>—It has happened just as I
+expected; I have no time to add more, for I have three
+new cases to draw charges in, and most troublesome ones
+too: one of four fellows, old commissariat clerks I
+suppose turned off, who have been about the country
+living by their wits, extorting provisions, forage, &amp;c.,
+from the Spaniards, by frauds, false passports, &amp;c., under
+pretence of acting for the English and Portuguese Commissariat.
+There are thirty-seven enclosures sent to me,
+papers taken upon them, all in Spanish, in general badly
+written, and no translation. The case, it is to be feared,
+will never be proved. I have got General O’Lalor to
+help me in this case. In short, my hands are full again;
+and my report of the old stories not made out. We
+occupy from Coria, Guinaldo, Vizeu, Covilhaon, and
+even almost to Coimbra; hospitals at Celerico, Vizu,
+Coimbra a few, Abrantes, and Santarem. I fear my
+Court-martial will be moved farther off. Some additional
+attached Spaniards are to have their head-quarters
+at Fuentes d’Onore to be about his Excellency, now that
+he takes the command of the whole generals, &amp;c., and
+General Vandeleur and the famous Caçadores are to
+move from thence in consequence; the arrangements,
+however, are not yet completed.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Frenada, February 2nd, 1813.</em>—Lord
+Wellington is returned in high spirits and great good-humour
+with every one; and, in spite of the number of
+deaths here, which are very formidable (between four and
+five hundred every week for the last six), declares that
+he shall take the field this year with nearly forty thousand<span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</span>
+British, and, on the whole, with a hundred and fifty
+thousand of one sort or other.</p>
+
+<p>General Vandeleur is to go to Fuente Guinaldo, and
+the Courts-martial will in future be there. It is about
+twenty-four miles off. I must sleep out always, and
+shall thus lose one or two days’ post; this will be inconvenient
+to me, and just now to the service, but it cannot
+be avoided. The General is very good-humoured, and
+we are very good friends; he has offered me a quarter,
+and a dinner, if I will bring my bed. At present our
+weather is colder than ever, but generally clear frost;
+the wind is excessively sharp. The ice yesterday on the
+road would bear my horse; and the thermometer, at
+seven in the evening, was four degrees below the freezing
+point; at night sometimes it is much colder.</p>
+
+<p>Two packets have just arrived; the last brought Lord
+Wellington the last good news from Wilna. I have
+dined once at head-quarters since Lord Wellington’s
+return, with Sumeil the Guerilla chief, looking like a
+dirty German private dragoon, in a smart new cavalry
+jacket, on one side of me, and Dr. Curtis, the Catholic
+head of the Salamanca college (who has been sent off
+from Salamanca very lately), opposite to me. The
+Spanish General O’Lalor treated Sumeil like a child,
+told him what to do and eat; but he had, I conclude,
+dined long before, for he ate little or nothing. Dr.
+Curtis seemed to be a clever, sensible, gentleman-like
+priest. He said the French knew immediately of Lord
+Wellington’s absence, but were not clear about it, and
+very anxious in their inquiries to ascertain the fact.
+General Hill’s corps, who did not share in the early
+siege of Rodrigo last year in January, nor the wet bad
+work at Badajoz, are by far the most healthy part of the
+army, and, next to them, the light division here. The
+fifth and seventh, near Lamego, are the worst, and the
+Guards (the new comers) very bad. General Hill has<span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</span>
+only about fourteen hundred in the hospital, and about
+seven thousand fit for service. I suppose we shall have
+an active campaign next year, if the whole be not put an
+end to by peace, which is not improbable, if the Allies
+are not too unreasonable in consequence of their successes.
+If Austria will join in dictating the terms with
+Russia, Prussia, and Great Britain, they should be very
+good for Europe; but if the devil Bonaparte be driven
+hard, he will rouse himself, appeal to the vanity of the
+French, and recoil upon us stronger than ever. The Gil
+Blas set of swindlers who went about Spain with false
+papers and passes, raising the wind under pretence of
+getting supplies for the British and Portuguese commissariat
+service (one was a German, two Spaniards, and
+the fourth a Portuguese), I much fear it will not be easy
+to convict.</p>
+
+<p><em>February the 3rd.</em>—You must excuse my writing, for
+it is done at all odd moments, as a relaxation from all
+my formal letters of business, which require a good deal
+of method and order in a small compass not to get into
+scrapes, such as sending witnesses to wrong places, &amp;c.
+As I have Courts sitting here at Fuente Guinaldo in the
+light division; at Lamego, in the fifth; at Maimento,
+in the seventh; at Alter de Chaon; at Coria, in the
+second division; at Maimento de Biera, in the third;
+and at Lisbon; letters coming at all hours of the day
+about each, a witness wanted here, a difficulty arising
+there, and so on; I can only get on by keeping a book,
+in which I instantly put down the exact state of everything,
+and keep copies of all my letters till the business
+is over; and I make it a rule, if possible, to answer
+every letter by return of post, as the only way not to
+get in arrear. I am very glad that I persuaded my
+Court at Fuentes d’Onore to have patience, and let me
+take down all the long love story I told you of, of the
+deserter Prang Neigabauer. It was quite a pretty<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</span>
+story. Lord Wellington pardoned him, from the good
+character of his regiment, and that which the Colonel
+gave him. The Prince of Orange is returned, and we
+are all here again assembled in this magnificent town!</p>
+
+<p><em>5 o’clock.</em>—I have been sent for twice to-day by Lord
+Wellington, besides twice last night, and have so much
+on my hands about Spaniards, Portuguese, and English,
+that I cannot add more.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Frenada, February 7th, 1813.</em>—There
+never were known so many Courts-martial in this army
+as at the present moment, and as I have the whole
+direction of them all, I really scarcely know where to
+turn, and my fingers are quite fatigued, as well as my
+brains, with the arrangements and difficulties as to
+witnesses, &amp;c. I sent out seventeen letters yesterday,
+and to-day I have one case of thirteen prisoners who
+have been committing every sort of outrage on their
+march here. Lord Wellington is now much more easy
+with me, and seems to trust to me more. Yesterday I
+was pleased when he said, “If your friends knew what
+was going on here, they would think you had no sinecure.
+And how do you suppose I was plagued when I had to
+do it nearly all myself?”</p>
+
+<p>He seemed to feel relieved, and of course I could not
+but feel gratified. I can assure you, however, that we
+have none of us much idle time. Dr. M’Gregor has
+seven hundred medical men to look after. The Quarter-Master-general,
+all the arrangement of the troops,
+clothing, &amp;c. The Adjutant-general, daily returns of
+the whole, constantly checked by an eye which finds out
+even a wrong casting-up of numbers in the totals. Lord
+Wellington reads and looks into everything. He hunts
+almost every other day, and then makes up for it by great
+diligence and instant decision on the intermediate days.
+He works until about four o’clock, and then, for an hour
+or two, parades with any one whom he wants to talk to,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</span>
+up and down the little square of Frenada (amidst all the
+chattering Portuguese) in his grey great coat.</p>
+
+<p>General Alava, whom I have seen lately much more
+about Spanish business, is a very gentleman-like, and
+appears to me to be a clever man.</p>
+
+<p>We have had constant frost hitherto; but I fear the
+rain is going now to begin. Some of the days lately
+have been delightful, like the frosty days in England at
+times at the end of February, with a fine clear warm sun
+in the daytime.</p>
+
+<p>I have just heard of five German deserters, brought in
+to the Provost here; and shall, I suppose, have to try
+them. They were taken on the other side of Rodrigo
+by the Spaniards; they are just come out to us from
+England. Don Julian’s cavalry are very useful in this
+way, and very active. The Cortes want to encourage
+farming in the country, and will give land to any
+wounded soldiers of the allied armies, English as well as
+natives, on condition of building and living on the spot.</p>
+
+<p>General Wimpfen, one of the Chief’s new Spanish
+staff, is arrived, and will be stationed with us.</p>
+
+<p>At Ciudad Rodrigo they are going to set up a Spanish
+newspaper, which is to come out once in a week: I mean
+to take it in. My new black horse goes on hitherto very
+well; I like him much; but use him little. Whenever
+I can, I get a gallop and a trot for an hour on the
+common just close by, and return home to write again.</p>
+
+<p>Excuse this stupid letter. I am very tired and must
+to bed.</p>
+
+<p>On Thursday, the 11th, I go to Fuente Guinaldo, and
+shall probably sleep there, at General Vandeleur’s.</p>
+<br>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_2" href="#FNanchor_2" class="label">[2]</a> Meaning Lieut.-General Sir Edward Paget, second in command, who
+was taken prisoner in the retreat. Lord Paget, afterwards Earl of Uxbridge,
+now Marquis of Anglesea, was not in the Peninsula at this time.</p>
+
+</div>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</span></p>
+
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="fs80" style="margin-left: 2em; text-indent: -2em;">More Courts-martial—Bal Masqué—Anecdotes of Wellington—Songs in
+his praise—Spanish Banditti—Excesses of the Army—Carnival—More
+Anecdotes of the Duke—The Staff—Grand Entertainment at Head-quarters—Wellington’s
+opinion on Affairs at Home—Murder of an
+Officer—General Craufurd.</p>
+
+<p class="right fs80">
+Frenada, February 12, 1813.<br>
+<span style="padding-right: 1em">8 o’clock, Friday night.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p class="no-indent">
+<span class="smcap">My dear M——</span>,
+</p>
+
+<p><span style="padding-left: 2em">On</span> my return from Fuente Guinaldo I found instructions
+for two new Courts-martial in Lord Wellington’s
+rough pencil notes,—a broad scroll in pencil in one
+corner, “Refer all this to the Judge Advocate,” meaning
+me to draw charges, &amp;c. I must now tell you of my
+expedition to Fuente Guinaldo. We were to have tried
+the Commissary for burning a house down, but by my
+advice he offered to pay all the damage done to General
+Alava, the Spanish agent here, and in consequence to be
+forgiven if it was paid in time. This was the best for
+the Spaniards, the owners, and a tolerably sharp punishment
+for a man whose only lawful pay is 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> a-day,
+the damage being near fifteen hundred dollars. The
+night before the trial he had not raised the money. I
+went to Lord Wellington to know what I should do, as
+the witnesses were all ready. He told me to give him
+till Monday next, and have all the witnesses rationed and
+kept till that time at Guinaldo. Suspecting that this
+would be my instruction, I had got another case ready
+for the Court there.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</span></p>
+
+<p>About seven o’clock, after a crust of bread and a glass
+of rum and milk for breakfast, off we went, Henry and
+I, for Fuente Guinaldo, and at the same time I sent one
+of my Portuguese men with my mattress and blankets,
+coverings, corn and hay for my horses, to meet us there,
+Henry carrying my papers, Mutiny Act, testaments, and
+all writing implements, &amp;c., for my Court-martial. The
+morning threatened much, as the frost is just broken up;
+but we got there dry and in time, and I found my way
+without any blunder, which, as the road was entirely
+across open downs, or through woods without inhabitants,
+and full of cross tracks, was some merit; I had, however,
+applied to Captain Wood, the hunter, who knows all the
+country well, for instructions.</p>
+
+<p>We arrived at Guinaldo in two hours, finished a case
+and tried a man for shooting a Portuguese, acquitted him
+of murder, but found him guilty of very disorderly
+conduct, and sentenced him to receive eight hundred
+lashes. I then walked round the town, looked into the
+church, and came back; wrote the whole out fair on six
+sides of folio paper; dined with the president at six, had
+a hospitable reception; and in the evening went to a sort
+of frolicsome masked ball, given extra on account of the
+Courts-martial. As the General went, I accompanied
+him. There were all the <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">equivoque belles</i> of Guinaldo,
+and all the light infantry officers, many in disguise and
+masquerade; some as females, and one as a Spanish
+farmer, the regular dress. We were all struck with the
+becoming appearance and picturesque style of the
+costume. One or two of the ladies were dressed as
+officers, and so on. The ball went on very well for some
+time, but the two ladies who were the leading beauties of
+the evening quarrelled, and the harmony was disturbed.
+At ten I went home, and left the party half tipsy and
+rather riotous, so that it was time for Generals and Judges
+to retire. The Court-room was my quarter. This<span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</span>
+morning before breakfast I read over my fair copy of the
+evidence, &amp;c., with the General. He signed it, gave me
+some breakfast, and I set off home, on a very threatening
+day which was as good as it promised; my cloak, however,
+kept me nearly dry.</p>
+
+<p>Fuente Guinaldo is nearer the Sierra de Gutta, and
+several degrees colder than we are here at Frenada, though
+we are many, many degrees colder than Lisbon. The
+Spanish staff are now all arrived, but scarcely a Spaniard
+amongst them—all foreigners. General Wimpfen, a
+Swiss; General O’Donoghue, Irish; and so of others.
+They all dined two days ago at Lord Wellington’s.</p>
+
+<p>Tell John, in answer to his inquiry, that with regard
+to the campaign and the siege of Burgos, it is a question
+much argued and discussed. Some say we should never
+have lost time by going to Madrid, and that was the
+mistake; some that if we had taken Burgos, as we
+should have done but for the very bad weather, all would
+have gone right. General O’Lalor, however, told me he
+thought that would have made no difference, but that if
+the French chose to give up the South, and unite against
+us ninety thousand strong, we must have been off just
+the same even though Burgos had been taken.</p>
+
+<p>My quarter at Fuente Guinaldo, having no window,
+is rather cool, but being in Spain, is clean. The church
+is a fine building, and the town not quite broken up;
+I suppose we shall move there next. To-night is a
+play-night in the gay light division at Galegos, and
+Lord Wellington was to have gone there, but the perpetual
+rain will probably prevent him. He meant to
+ride there, a distance of ten miles, at night. Had it
+been very fine I might have been almost tempted to
+take my mattress round that way, and go once to the
+theatre, which all say is very tolerable in regard to
+acting, scenery, &amp;c., the whole carried on by the light
+division in a chapel at Galegos. I was not a little<span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</span>
+surprised to see common country dances very tolerably
+performed last night at Guinaldo, and even Sir Roger de
+Coverley.</p>
+
+<p>Two or three days ago I was somewhat puzzled,
+when, upon my pointing out the sentence of a Court-martial
+as illegal, Lord Wellington said, “Well, do
+write a letter for me to the president, and I will sign
+it, and it shall be sent back for revision.” I did not
+know his style, but my letter was fortunately approved
+of. I had yesterday a visit from Colonel ——, of the
+Engineers, begging for a favourable report upon the
+case of a complaint against a Captain of artillery; I
+suppose people think I have some weight in Lord
+Wellington’s decisions, but that is by no means the
+case. He thinks and acts quite for himself; <em>with</em> me,
+if he thinks I am right, but not otherwise. I have not,
+however, found what Captain —— told me I should
+find, that Lord Wellington immediately determines
+against anything that is suggested to him. On the
+contrary, I think he is reasonable enough, only often
+a little hasty in ordering trials, when an acquittal must
+be the consequence. This, in my opinion, does harm, as
+I would have the law punish almost always when it is
+put in force.</p>
+
+<p><em>Wednesday, 17th.</em>—I have heard no news at all: still
+strong reports that the French cavalry are partly gone
+from hence to France; but I cannot ascertain that they
+are actually removed beyond Vittoria, and that may be
+only for forage, as our cavalry are wide apart and dispersed.
+The first division, under General Bock, is at
+and below Coimbra, near the sea, where I have just
+fixed a Court-martial to try a set of men of the 9th and
+87th for most outrageous conduct on the march to join
+the army. Lord Wellington has had the whole complaints
+against this party along the road written out, to
+send home, with an official copy of his letter, as he finds<span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</span>
+that an account of the matter has travelled home, and is
+quoted as a specimen of the conduct of our army on the
+march. The first division of cavalry is, on the other
+hand, at Alter de Chaon, towards Castello Branco, and is
+all much dispersed; General Hill, with the second division,
+Coria; sixth division, Cea; fifth, Lamego; third,
+Maimento de Beira; seventh, Maimento; light, Fuente
+Guinaldo. These are the head-quarters of the troops.
+Marshal Beresford is better, and his wound nearly
+healed; he talks of soon joining; his head-quarters will
+be Villa Formosa. I now see Lord Wellington almost
+daily on business; he one day fell into a passion about
+the Courts-martial for not doing their duty, by acquitting
+and recommending to mercy, &amp;c., and also about
+officers commanding parties not being attentive. He
+has always been civil to me, though at times quick and
+hasty in business. I nearly got into a scrape by saying
+a good word for Captain ——, merely from his good
+character, as I did not personally know him. However,
+Lord Wellington so far acquiesced, that he said I
+need not draw the charge as yet; but he should send
+him word that if the village in question were not satisfied
+for their forage and bullocks in a week, he should
+either have him tried or sent home.</p>
+
+<p>I have just got a letter of reprimand to send out,
+according to a written memorandum from Lord Wellington;
+a little slap at a deputy of mine, and greater at
+the Court-martial, with directions how they should act.
+Adieu.</p>
+
+<p><em>Monday Evening, Head-Quarters, Frenada, February
+22nd, 1813.</em>—On getting up in the morning yesterday,
+I said to myself for the first time these two months,
+“Well, I do think I have no business to-day, and will
+write to M——.” In two hours’ time, however, before
+I had finished my breakfast, and read one of Vetus’s
+letters, in came three new cases, and old General O’Lalor<span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</span>
+to tell me he had sent me a case to try at Guinaldo—a
+man charged with shooting a Spanish girl through the
+door, because she would not give him some chestnuts!
+The wanton outrages of our people are quite extraordinary.
+There are four poor fellows to be hung this
+week in the second division; one for desertion, and three
+for a burglary near Coria about a fortnight since. For
+the sake of immediate example I hastened the case, by
+giving full instructions to the Deputy Judge-Advocate
+there. The men were tried immediately, and three are
+to be hung to-morrow. The Commissary charged with
+burning the house was at last let off for a large sum
+of money. I was very glad when it was settled, for
+I had more trouble about it than if he had been tried
+and hung ten times over. An overwhelming heap of
+Spanish proceedings has just reached me about the man
+for shooting the poor girl; and yet I have very little
+doubt, when the Court meets, I shall have much
+difficulty in proving that the man shot her, and that
+she is dead. I go over for that purpose the day after
+to-morrow.</p>
+
+<p>During the last two or three days the weather has
+been delightful—quite a mild south-west breeze, with
+a clear sun; but this was, I heard, too unusual to last.
+I like “Vetus” much, and agree with him in most
+things; but his style is not by a good deal to be compared
+with Junius. In parts there are considerable
+blunders, and often confusion and want of clearness;
+but there are some curious stolen cuts, if facts. I have
+just heard from General O’Lalor that we have been
+attacked at Bejar by a party of French, and have beaten
+them back. It was the second division, General Hill’s
+corps, who were concerned, and I believe the 50th
+regiment principally. I am told no great loss, but
+know no particulars. You will hear more of it from
+the papers than I can tell you. It is still said that we<span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</span>
+are to encamp and bivouac this next campaign. We
+are now consuming our last stock of hay—two great
+stacks, which have been saved by Lord Wellington’s
+orders at Almeyda. After that we must buy reaping-hooks,
+and try to cut grass before the green corn forage
+comes in; and though I can see a plain difference already
+in the colour of the hills, and the young green corn and
+spring grass are here and there making a show, there is
+very little to be got to eat yet in that way.</p>
+
+<p>We have still many sick, and the doctors do not take
+better care of themselves than of their patients, for no
+less than five medical men have died at Ciudad Rodrigo
+since we have been in quarters here. The French have
+got all about the part of the country near General Hill,
+near Nava, Morguende, Mentrida, &amp;c., and are moving;
+but I do not expect anything important for some time.
+Some say the French will begin this campaign; and
+I rather hope they may. The 10th Dragoons have
+arrived, I hear from every one, in the highest style and
+in excellent order. This is very good news.</p>
+
+<p>We have three Spanish songs in honour of Wellington,
+one rather gone by now: “The Retreat of Marmont,”
+“Ahe Marmont, onde vai, Marmont,” a very pretty air;
+the other was composed at Cadiz lately when Lord
+Wellington was there. I suppose you have them in
+England. Moretti of Cadiz is the composer. One of
+them is good, and the other very well. Lord Wellington
+sits and hears his own praises in Spanish with considerable
+coolness, and calls for it himself at times.</p>
+
+<p><em>February 23rd, Tuesday Morning.</em>—Just a few lines
+more, and but a few, as I have just been with Lord
+Wellington, and, having got rid of one batch of papers,
+have returned with another. I hear the affair at Bejar,
+or Banos, in the sierras north of Placencia, was not much.
+We had six taken and a few wounded. It is supposed to
+have been a French party for provisions and plunder, as<span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</span>
+they wander about for these purposes, and to have been
+no serious movement. Our men got a position first,
+which the French tried to get, at Bejar. We had no
+cavalry, or an attempt might have succeeded to turn the
+French party; but without this assistance the 56th drove
+back the French, and saved Bejar and that country. The
+71st were also there, and concerned.</p>
+
+<p>Lord March is just returned from a flag-of-truce
+excursion to the French. He fell in with their pickets
+half a league from Ledesma, where the French seemed
+in force. They were very civil. He dined with a
+General Goutier, or some such name, and stayed about
+four or five hours. Their men and cavalry looked well,
+and clothing very fair; accoutrements, &amp;c., bad and
+slovenly; horses in good condition; but he concludes
+that he saw the best, for he found they knew of his
+approach five leagues off. They kept away all the
+Spaniards, who were getting round him, and were particularly
+violent against the canaille, the Guerillas. The
+latter were close upon the French. He passed them
+very near the town. They abused Sumeil; said he
+would rob even the English, and would not believe he
+dined at Lord Wellington’s table. They hoped to see
+the English in a month, they said. His five hussars and
+his trumpeter were surrounded by eighty men in a trice,
+and all communication cut off, and a thousand questions
+asked of course, but little given in answer. The French
+officer and escort of five dragoons, who escorted Lord
+March on his departure, would not go above half a
+league, for fear of the Guerillas, and was half inclined to
+accept Lord March’s offer to let his trumpeter and some
+men see him back, with a party of the Guerillas; but at
+last he said he had a good horse, and galloped back. I
+do not know what Lord March went about; some say
+on Sir Edward Paget’s affairs.</p>
+
+<p><em>Guinaldo, February 24th, 1813.</em>—From the blunder<span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</span>
+of General O——, here I am, after a wet ride, with no
+Court-martial to-day, and nothing to do. The consequence
+is, I must stay to-morrow also, when I really
+hope to get this business over, for I have plenty to do at
+home. Marshal Marmont had the quarter I occupy
+when he was here, as well as Lord Wellington. The
+former shut the whole up, and used candles all day.
+The latter got on as well as he could in the dark, and
+used the General’s bedroom, which is rather a better
+room, as his dining-room. The owner was once a man
+rich in flocks, herds, and lands and houses, and has
+another good house at Ciudad Rodrigo. At present I
+take it his worldly goods are not sufficient to make him
+think too much of this world. Between Pago and Coria
+there are banditti and robbers; and two or three murders
+have been committed there by armed men, Spaniards,
+I believe, and Portuguese, five or six together. What a
+state this poor country is in!</p>
+
+<p><em>Frenada, March 1st.</em>—Several of these banditti I hear
+are deserters from our army, and Lord Wellington has
+sent out after them. On the Thursday I tried the man
+at Guinaldo for murdering a poor Spanish girl. We
+had some difficulty in coming to an understanding. The
+witnesses were all Spaniards, principally the relations of
+the deceased; the only interpreter was Portuguese; the
+prisoner a German, but he spoke bad French. At last,
+as I had looked into all the Spanish proceedings, we got
+on, as most of the Court understood Spanish as well as
+the interpreter, and nearly all understood French. The
+prisoner’s defence was in French. I then read it in
+English to the Court as he went on, and took it down.
+He had a very narrow escape for his life; I thought it
+murder, and the Court were long in doubt; at last they
+only found him guilty of a most disorderly outrage and
+killing the poor girl, and gave him a thousand lashes.</p>
+
+<p>I wrote it fair, got it signed, dined again with the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</span>
+General, and came over here on a beautiful day. We
+have now again fine clear, frosty mornings, beautiful,
+but really almost too warm days and too cold evenings.
+I wish this would last; and yet it is trying to the constitution,
+for there must, I think, be thirty degrees
+difference between the temperature at three and at six
+o’clock.</p>
+
+<p>On my return here I found that no less than nine
+Courts-martial had arrived and plenty of newspapers.
+One Court-martial had met thirty-eight days, and
+another sixteen: thus I had plenty to read and report
+upon. I saw Lord Wellington, in consequence, two
+days running, for nearly two hours, as I thought four of
+the cases ought to go back for revision, and one only
+to be confirmed, as it was half illegal—eight hundred
+lashes and transportation for life—which latter is not a
+legal sentence for mutiny. In truth, the men should
+have been shot.</p>
+
+<p>The Courts will not do their duty: Lord Wellington
+was quite angry. He swore, and said that his whole
+table was covered with details of robbery and mutiny,
+and complaints from all quarters, in all languages, and
+that he should be nothing but a General of Courts-martial.
+He has given some broad hints to the Courts in
+general orders. I sent out three new cases yesterday, and
+have about fifteen deserters just in hand now—in general
+Poles from the second King’s German Legion light
+infantry battalion.</p>
+
+<p>I made it a rule, whenever possible, to clear off everything
+as I go, and answer every letter by return of post,
+which is the only way; and I am glad to see my pile of
+papers done with now larger than that in hand. Whilst
+I was with Lord Wellington, the Commissariat returns
+came in, and were very confused. That added to his
+ill-humour; but he was very civil to me, and gets more
+easy, as I do with him. He sent orders for fifteen<span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</span>
+thousand complete black accoutrements to be sent round
+to Corunna, so I hope the Gallician army is to be
+increased; some of their regiments got home much more
+entire than any of ours during the retreat, but upon the
+whole they diminished very much by desertion when
+they first got away from home.</p>
+
+<p>The people of Guinaldo, whilst I was there, were
+almost mad—nothing but dancing and noise in all
+quarters. They told me it was a particular day, when
+the women were to rule the Dios de Madre; but it
+seems to me they are always in this gay state. The
+people agree there very well with the English, particularly
+with the 52nd, which is now there, a fine light
+battalion, seven hundred strong, and in high order.
+The ladies go about, and tie strings to the coats of the
+officers, and even of the General; dance about, sup, and
+drink with them, and are all alive both with them and
+the men.</p>
+
+<p>The 52nd and 43rd lost part of their baggage in the
+retreat, and one on the Court-martial told me an anecdote
+as to his baggage. A French officer and a few men overtook
+his bâtman with the canteens, &amp;c. “Where’s the
+key?” he said; “come, quick! break it open; out with the
+tea and sugar, I have had none these three months:” and
+in this manner he took all worth having, the best horse
+and mule, and left the bâtman frightened to death.</p>
+
+<p>There is one regiment of the Caçadores that is the
+constant astonishment of the English. Badly paid, no
+new clothes for the last two years, almost in rags this
+winter, and yet scarcely a man has been sick. I wish
+this was the case with them all. Our men are getting
+their clothes much better than last year, but still many
+are sick. Of two hundred men, a reinforcement to the
+43rd light regiment Walcheren men, ninety have died;
+and the Guards have suffered terribly, but still all are in
+spirits; though the verses I enclose to you (and which<span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</span>
+are printed at the Adjutant-general’s portable press, used
+for printing the army orders, &amp;c.) give a very fair description
+of the life in Portugal.</p>
+
+<p>I have taken a ride to Malliarda de Sorda, and found
+the Deputy Paymaster-General H—— very unwell, with
+an attack of fever. One must not think of these things:
+that is the best way, I believe, if possible. Sir W. Erskine,
+who threw himself out of the window here in a delirium,
+came to his senses after his fall, and said he never thought
+he could have been guilty of such an act, and that he did
+not intend it. This was very melancholy; but I am told
+he had been two years confined, and that he should not
+have been here as chief officer of the cavalry—it was too
+great a risk.</p>
+
+<p>We have a report here of a revolution in France; but
+I do not credit it yet, though not unlikely. It seems to
+me Bonaparte is a man to run that hazard by his conscription
+and immense levies, and that there will be either
+a revolution, or he will soon be again formidable; and
+much is yet to be done. I hope we shall make a good
+end of it here this year.</p>
+
+<p><em>Wednesday.</em>—I dined yesterday at head-quarters, and
+sat next to Baron Wimpfen, the new Quarter-Master-general
+attached to Lord Wellington. He is a very gentleman-like
+man, and talks French well. We had much
+conversation together, in which Lord Wellington, who
+sat next to the General, often took part. He gave us the
+whole history of the battle of Fuentes d’Onore, which
+was fought some time since near here, in which the
+French were three to one, and in which Lord Wellington
+said he committed a fault, by extending his right too
+much to Poço de Velho; and that, if the French had
+taken advantage of it, there might have been bad consequences,
+but that they permitted him to recover himself
+and change his front before their face.</p>
+
+<p>Another new comer at dinner yesterday was a Monsieur<span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</span>
+Saudri, an agent for the Portuguese, a sort of interpreter.
+He gave an account of the state of the Portuguese
+provinces. Some are recovering fast, it seems,
+Coimbra particularly, but many are still in great distress.</p>
+
+<p>Yesterday was the last day of a sort of carnival here.
+We had fools, and pantaloons, and straw bulls, &amp;c., and
+masks walking about the streets—much noise but no
+great magnificence. I saw poor pantaloon fall in earnest
+when throwing his sword after a soldier, and he could
+scarcely get up again.</p>
+
+<p>A general order has just been issued for all the officers
+to apply for tents for the next campaign. I must do the
+same, I suppose, and try that sort of life, which in dry
+weather may be well enough, but bad work if as it was
+last year, when the little bed-legs sunk in mud up to the
+mattress, and the blankets got quite muddy!</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Frenada, March 6th, 1813.</em>—A man
+arrived here two days ago from Madrid in five days, for
+payment of a Commissariat bill due to him. He states
+that the French are in small force at Madrid, and that
+Joseph was packing up. But I believe this is only
+because he individually is going away; for I understand
+that the French are still in force below Madrid, and that
+the only notion entertained as genuine here as to their
+troops going homewards is that ten men picked from
+each squadron and battalion, or as some say from each
+company, are to be sent home to make good the Imperial
+Guards. I do not think myself they will withdraw at all
+now. They keep the country to support themselves till
+we are ready to move, and then I think they will collect
+and risk an early action with us, as their difficulty is to
+keep together long. If they beat us, they will remain as
+they were, and I think that is all, unless we are quite
+routed; if we beat them, then they will go behind the
+Ebro. The conjecture is, as far as I can understand from
+the probabilities, a late opening of the campaign on<span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</span>
+account of the Spaniards not being ready, and then an
+early action when it does begin.</p>
+
+<p>Some say that the Spaniards will not be ready to move
+before the harvest in July, or not much before. The
+French have nearly ninety thousand men in their extended
+positions, with their right on and near the Douro
+and the left on or along the Tagus. We shall have,
+when we begin, about forty-four or forty-five thousand
+British, about twenty or twenty-two thousand Portuguese,
+and how many Spaniards no one can tell, or what
+they will do. So do not expect to hear of a march to
+France—to the Ebro, or very possibly up to Burgos
+again. The opportunity for effecting this must be by
+obliging the French to assemble, and then by rousing
+up all the Guerillas to starve them. Having heard
+Lord Wellington give his account of the battle of
+Fuentes d’Onore to General Wimpfen, the Spanish
+Inspector-General, I rode there yesterday with Lord
+Aylmer (who was present in the action) over the whole
+field of battle, saw all the field-works, the positions of
+the different divisions, and the plan of the whole. I
+perfectly understood Lord Wellington’s blunder, and the
+risk he had run, and could form a very good notion of
+the strength of the position, and the nature of it as protected
+by the ravines of the Coa, &amp;c. Lord Aylmer gave
+me two striking instances of Lord Wellington’s coolness:
+one when, as he was pursuing the French, in a fog in
+the morning, he found a division of our men under Sir
+William Erskine much exposed in advance, and nearly
+separated from the rest of the army, and the French in a
+village within a mile of where he was standing, he could
+see nothing; but, on some prisoners being brought in,
+and asked what French division and how many men were
+in the village, they, to the dismay of every one except
+Wellington, stated that the whole French army were
+there; all he said was, quite coolly, “Oh! they are all<span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</span>
+there, are they? Well, we must mind a little what we
+are about then.” Another time, soon after the battle of
+Fuentes d’Onore, and when we were waiting in our position
+near them to risk an attack, in order to protect the
+siege of Almeyda, early one morning Lord Aylmer came
+suddenly in to him whilst he was shaving, to tell him
+that “the French were all off, and the last cavalry
+mounting to be gone;” the consequence of which movement
+was to relieve him entirely, to give him Almeyda,
+and preserve Portugal. He merely took the razor off for
+one moment, and said, “Ay, I thought they meant to be
+off; very well;” and then another shave just as before,
+without another word till he was dressed. I find, however,
+it is said he magnifies the French now and then—sees
+double as to the number of blue uniforms, and cannot
+see all the scarlet; but I believe most men in his situation
+do this more or less. I must now proceed to summon
+some witnesses: so, for the present, adieu.</p>
+
+<p><em>Monday, 4 o’clock.</em>—You ask me what my house is
+like, and what Frenada is? Frenada is a village much in
+decay, very dirty; in the streets are immense masses of
+stones, and holes, and dung all about, houses like a farm
+kitchen, with this difference that there are the stables
+underneath. My last lodging was like a part of a Welsh
+farm-house, boarded off at one end from the common
+room, with a hole through the wall and one pane of glass
+let in. I am now in a distinct building like a granary,
+with the stables below, in an English farm-yard, in
+which are my animals of all sorts, servants and all. The
+kitchen is a miserable shed, not water-tight, where the
+woman of the house and three children live quite separate.
+The building I occupy has one opening with a wooden
+door besides the entrance-door, and the end, about eight
+feet wide by sixteen long, was boarded off by an officer
+last year. In this I sleep, eat, drink, write, &amp;c., and live
+altogether, as it has a fireplace in the corner built by the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</span>
+same officer. The fireplace is so contrived, however, as
+to let more smoke into the room than up the chimney,
+and of course my eyes suffer, and all I have looks yellow
+and smells of smoke.</p>
+
+<p>It is said that Lord Wellington and the Court here
+are to go to Ciudad Rodrigo, to a fête, to install the new
+Knight of the Bath, General Cole. I shall not go unless
+especially invited, and I have enough to do here, for except,
+probably, the Adjutant-general, the Quarter-Master-general,
+and perhaps the Commissary-general, I have
+more correspondents than any one here.</p>
+
+<p>I take it in the army that the officers in the lower
+branches of the staff are sharp-set, hungry, and anxious to
+get on, and make the most of everything, and have a
+view even in their civilities. I have tried not to notice
+much that I could not help seeing, and which gave me a
+moderate opinion of the profession, which has not the independence
+to be seen in all the most respectable at the
+bar. There is much obsequious, time-serving conduct to
+any one who is in office, or is thought to have a word to
+say to his lordship.</p>
+
+<p>Lord Wellington gets angry about the Courts-martial,
+the difficulty as to getting witnesses, the inconvenience,
+and then at last the great lenity of the Courts. “How
+can you expect,” he remarked to me, “a Court to find an
+officer guilty of neglect of duty, when it is composed of
+members who are all more or less guilty of the same?”
+He does not like the tribunal. We have, however, hung
+six men within this month, broken several officers (at
+least their cases are gone home with that sentence), and
+flogged about sixteen or eighteen (pretty well, this), and
+we are still at work. I have now twenty-two cases left
+on hand, about thirty-six tried, about two or three new
+cases every week, yet I hope we are getting on better
+now. I am glad to be made of such importance as you
+say I am in England; my reputation increases here a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</span>
+little, several Courts-martial having been sent back for
+revision: for this I get in a degree the credit, and in
+some instances justly. I am thought a formidable person
+to whom it is as well to be civil, and who can often be of
+service to others.</p>
+
+<p>The Princess of Wales’s letter is good; and I think,
+and have always thought, that if she could once dare
+inquiry, her case would be unanswerable, and the Prince
+in a complete dilemma. We have heard here that
+Brougham wrote the Princess’s letter: is there such a
+story in England?</p>
+
+<p><em>Wednesday, 10th March.</em>—No more news, and no
+more mails, and no more time. I am to be asked, it is
+said, to Rodrigo to the fête there on Saturday. Lord
+Wellington wants to be very magnificent in his own city,
+and has said that he wished to give a supper to a hundred
+and fifty, but is told that it is quite out of the question, as
+the town and head-quarters would not supply dishes and
+plates, &amp;c. There is, however, to be a small dinner first
+before the ball. But this arrangement may be a little
+disturbed by an event I have this moment heard from
+General O’Lalor. A Spanish dragoon is come in, with
+news that the French are moving in the Sierra di Francia;
+their object, I think likely enough, to rout us up before
+we are ready. I know no more; General O’Lalor went
+to Lord Wellington to tell him the news. N.B.—Orders
+have just come in to prepare charges against nine Polish
+deserters.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Frenada, March 15th, 1813, 9 o’clock
+at night.</em>—As to Sir Isaac Heard’s coming over here to
+invest the Marquis with the Garter, doubtless the old
+Garter king would like it; and at this time of the year,
+while quiet here, and neither hot nor wet, no mosquitoes,
+and without baggage, he might do it tolerably well. If
+you travel without baggage, as Lord Wellington did
+when he went to Cadiz, with good horses, you get on<span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</span>
+thirty, forty, and even fifty miles in a day; avoid all the
+bad places, only stop in towns, get the best accommodation,
+and only rest where there are English Commissaries,
+&amp;c. Lord Wellington came from Lisbon here in
+five days, with relays of horses; the last day he rode
+fifty miles between breakfast and dinner.</p>
+
+<p>The movements of the French I mentioned in my last
+came to little or nothing—it was a mere alarm.</p>
+
+<p>I have had a long letter from Sutton in answer to
+several queries. He agrees with me in every point which
+I have had to decide; and I am particularly glad to be
+right in the great one on which Lord Wellington differed
+with me, and directed me to send home his reasons.
+Still Lord Wellington is hardly satisfied, but desires me
+to wait till I hear officially from Sutton about it.</p>
+
+<p>The day before yesterday we had a hard day’s work
+in the shape of gaiety and amusement. Lord Wellington
+desired to invest General Cole with the Order of the
+Bath, in a suitable manner; and as he had never done
+anything at Ciudad Rodrigo, of which he is Duke, he
+determined upon this opportunity to give a grand fête
+in the midst of the ruins—a grand dinner, ball, and
+supper. All heads of departments, generals, public
+authorities, Spaniards and English, were invited to
+dinner, to the amount of sixty-five. In the evening,
+ladies about forty, and men about a hundred and fifty,
+came to a ball and supper. The dinner and supper were
+half cooked at Frenada, and carried over in military
+waggons and on mules. All the plate at head-quarters
+was put in requisition, and there was enough to afford a
+change of silver at dinner. Plenty of claret, champagne,
+and Lamego, <em>i. e.</em>, port, was sent over. A caravan of
+glass and crockery arrived from the governor of Almeyda,
+and from a shop just opened there. Almeyda is twenty-five
+miles from Rodrigo. The whole went off very well,
+except that it was excessively cold, as a few balls during<span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</span>
+the siege had knocked in several yards of the roof of the
+ball-room, and it was a hard frost at the time.</p>
+
+<p>Lord Wellington was the most active man of the
+party—he prides himself on this; but yet I hear from
+those about him that he is a little broken down by it.
+He stayed on business at Frenada until half-past three,
+and then rode full seventeen miles to Rodrigo in two
+hours to dinner, dressed in all his orders, &amp;c., was in
+high glee, danced, stayed supper, and at half-past three
+in the morning went back to Frenada by moonlight, and
+arrived here before daybreak at six; so that by twelve
+he was ready again for business, and I saw him amongst
+others upon a Court-martial on my return at two the next
+day. Campbell and General O’Lalor managed the fête.
+I made cards for every place at dinner, with corresponding
+ones for each person, with his name, table, and number
+of his plate, and so there was no bowing and scraping,
+or pushing for the first table. We got quarters in the
+ruins. Stables there were none scarcely, and we took
+over hay and barley for the horses for the night, and our
+beds to lie down for an hour or two. Several ladies, refugees
+from Salamanca, were there, and the band of the
+52nd.</p>
+
+<p>The house at which the entertainment was given was
+the best in the town, with some very good rooms; but
+it had suffered a little by the siege, and had, moreover;
+only bare walls. Luckily, however, the General O’Lalor
+discovered that the Intendente of the Palace of St. Ildefonso
+had brought away the hangings of five or six of
+the best rooms to save them from the French, and had
+deposited them at Rodrigo. These were obtained, and
+the bare walls of the ball-room were hung all over with
+yellow damask satin with a silver border, with openings
+at each end in festoons, like a tent, and looked very well.
+The other supper-rooms were hung with crimson satin
+and gold from the same palace, and in tolerable condition.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</span></p>
+
+<p>The whole was laid out so as to astonish the inhabitants,
+and the defects were concealed almost entirely.
+Near one hole in the floor a man was placed to take care
+that no one got a leg in, and a mat was put over the
+whole. The ladies were not very handsome, but two
+or three good-looking, and several very lady-like in their
+manners.</p>
+
+<p>I was most pleased with the bolero and fandango
+dances, which were executed by two Spanish ladies, Chanoinesses
+as they were called, nieces of two Chanoines,
+and two Spaniards, one of whom danced very well. The
+best was the old fellow who was sent for to play on his
+ornamented paper square tambourine, or rather flat drum,
+who sang the airs and accompanied himself with great
+humour, and afterwards gave us a dance in the true
+style. The enthusiasm of the Spaniards was also amusing,
+and their eager applause. All the other dances were
+English country dances, which the ladies execute very
+well and exactly like ours, except that they waltz the
+poussets, and generally, therefore, dance waltz tunes,
+and have that figure. They are also a little more twisted
+about and handled than our fair ones would like at first;
+but upon the whole, perhaps our country dances are improved
+by the change. We had much drinking and
+toasts given on both sides, at the expense of the French:
+“Ferdinand the Seventh,” “The next campaign,” “Death
+to all Frenchmen,” &amp;c. In short, several Spaniards as
+well as English got very drunk by five o’clock in the
+morning, and they chaired the Prince of Orange, General
+Vandeleur, whom they let fall, and several others, as
+soon as the ladies were gone, and there was nothing else
+to do. The Spaniards at first began with “vivas,” but
+soon learnt “hip, hip, hip, hurra!”</p>
+
+<p>With great care a few silver spoons and knives and
+forks only were missing, and it is said one plate.
+Henry tells me the servants saw one Spanish officer<span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</span>
+with a turkey’s leg sticking out of his pocket; but, like
+our aldermen, they are given to pocket even at Madrid,
+and have some excuse, for they are paid little, and find
+everything very dear. Probably a turkey had not been
+seen there for months: they were, I believe, all brought
+from thirty or forty miles down the Douro, near Lamego.
+Besides the Spanish military authorities, there
+were some civilians of rank, as the Marquis d’Espeja
+and a few others. Colonel Gordon was the only officer
+who would return with Lord Wellington; and though
+he has the best horses here next to those of the chief,
+he borrowed another horse which had come over earlier,
+to ride back upon with Lord Wellington, and left his
+own, which he had ridden on in the morning with his
+lordship, to come back later in the day.</p>
+
+<p>The repairs of the walls of Ciudad Rodrigo are going
+on better, and they are now nearly cleared of rubbish,
+so as to be ready to begin to rebuild the new work,
+which all fell down last autumn. I sat at the grand
+dinner directly opposite to E——, who introduced himself
+to me afterwards in the ball-room. Colonel Fisher,
+of the Artillery, was next, a very pleasant man, a great
+artist, connoisseur, traveller, &amp;c. Except at a grand fête,
+and the few great men who come to head-quarters, or
+when crossing a division on the march, which we always
+avoid if possible, we seldom see any regimental officers.</p>
+
+<p><em>Tuesday Night (16th).</em>—We have flogged and hung
+people into better order here, I think, but have now
+got into a little squabble with the Portuguese Government,
+who will become bold by success. By the Portuguese
+law a magistrate is only to give evidence in
+writing by deposition, which our Courts, if it be a fact in
+his own knowledge, and where he is wanted as a witness,
+ought not to receive. I fear the Bill proposed at home
+will be unpopular, and yet inefficient in a great measure.</p>
+
+<p>The Guards, who joined nearly when I did, have suffered<span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</span>
+most of all by the campaign. They came out a
+noble battalion of fine men, twelve hundred strong;
+four hundred are dead, and not above five hundred are
+now fit for duty. This is very shocking.</p>
+
+<p>The division on Grattan’s motion in the House is
+stronger than I expected it would be after all the outcry
+on the subject. I had a long conversation while walking
+up and down the market-place with Lord Wellington
+here, a few days since, upon that and the Indian
+question. He has, from what he saw in Ireland, taken
+up a strong notion that independence is what the Irish
+really aim at, and he is, therefore, for giving no more,
+but proceeding upon King William’s plan to keep them
+down by main force, for he thinks that they have too
+much power already, and will only use more to obtain
+more, and at length separation. He said he thought
+his brother and Canning had just taken up the Catholic
+question when the tide of popularity was turning against
+it. I hope this is not so; and though I agree with him
+that the party for separation is strong, his plan would
+drive them to extremities, and is now too late; the only
+chance is, to get the higher orders of Roman Catholics
+and the priests, if possible, by pay or otherwise, and by
+looking for pay and patronage, to be dependent on the
+Crown and on England more than they are, and at the
+same time not to be a degraded class.</p>
+
+<p>Did I tell you the size of Frenada, about which you
+asked? It is about as large as Ashted, without the
+three gentlemen’s houses in it. Lord Wellington’s
+house is, however, better known than the inn there
+(the Leg of Mutton and Cauliflower), and more ornamented,
+though it does not contain more room or as
+much comfort. This is as good a description as I can
+give you, only that all the houses are more roomy than
+in our villages—more like barns—for the straw, corn,
+and all are left under the same roof.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</span></p>
+
+<p>As Sutton only answers my letters indirectly, and not
+officially upon the point on which we differed, Lord
+Wellington says he will not act until he has an official
+answer. He does not like to be wrong, and yet I am
+very glad he is so.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Frenada, March 19th, 1813.</em>—The
+day before yesterday we had a most extraordinary
+arrival here in General Murray, the Quarter-Master-general
+of the army. He left Plymouth late on the
+10th instant, and was here at Frenada on the 18th,
+in the morning, in about seven days and a half. He
+got to Oporto from Plymouth in less than five days,
+and here in three, travelling post on horses, ponies,
+mules, and anything he could get: he brought London
+papers of the 8th. His baggage went round by Lisbon.
+He was to have come out with General Graham and
+General Stewart, but was sent off here express with
+despatches in a sloop of war. No one knows what the
+important news is which made it advisable to send out a
+Quarter-Master-general as a messenger.</p>
+
+<p>I hear of no movement yet in the army, and as part
+of the cavalry are down below Coimbra, and part still
+below Abrantes, near Cabeça de Vide, Aunde Chad, and
+Monforte, it will be necessary to give some notice of
+anything like a serious movement in good time. Perhaps
+head-quarters may move to Guinaldo in a month—I
+think not sooner, for there is no grass there yet, and
+the cold is not gone, nor the rain come, though the sky
+has threatened much for the last day or two. I have
+now to send above thirty miles for bad hay or straw for
+my animals, and that I hear is nearly exhausted. We
+have been obliged to send fifteen miles for some time
+past, which is hard work for the poor mules during what
+should be their resting-time.</p>
+
+<p>You ask about our religious duties. There are four or
+five or more clergymen in Portugal, but no one now at<span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</span>
+head-quarters. The clergyman stationed there went away
+ill about a twelvemonth since, I hear.</p>
+
+<p><em>Sunday, 21st.</em>—The remains of the battalion of Guards
+which lost so many men, and was so sickly, is going
+down towards the coast and towards Coimbra, to recruit
+with sea-air.</p>
+
+<p>I must now away to answer letters. I have only read
+four of the newspapers out of the last fifteen; you may
+therefore conclude how much I am employed. I get
+through one at breakfast-time, and when at home two of
+an evening; nor have I yet read half through one review.
+Lord Wellington is as bad; he borrowed my “Vetus”
+nearly three weeks since, and has not read it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Wednesday, 4 o’clock, Post-day.</em>—Having got all my
+proceedings written out fair by half-past six yesterday, I
+dined with the General. Early again this morning I
+breakfasted with him; compared the two, got the fair
+one signed; picked you up botanical specimens of the
+flowers in the fields in my ride back, and here I am.</p>
+
+<p>Since Rodrigo has been taken, the inhabitants about
+Guinaldo feel more confidence, and more land is this year
+in cultivation. They are tempted also by the high price
+of everything; and near Guinaldo I saw a new enclosure
+going on, and trees being grubbed up to a considerable
+extent. The old lady where General Vandeleur is quartered,
+is doing this to an extent of several thousand acres.
+To give you a proof of the lightness of their ploughs, I
+met a man walking off a mile or two to work from
+Guinaldo with a complete plough on his shoulder, the
+whole plough fit for use, iron share, &amp;c.; he was walking
+three or four miles an hour, quite upright. I hear that
+the inhabitants of Bejar, rather an opulent Spanish town,
+and where there is a cloth trade, have been so well
+satisfied with the 50th regiment for having driven away
+the French and saved their town, that they have given
+them all round a pair of pantaloons each, and several<span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</span>
+days’ double rations of spirits, and some other presents.
+The place is now strengthened considerably as a post, it is
+said, for the French seem to be making some stir, though
+no one seems to know what they mean to be about.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Frenada, March 27th, 1813. Saturday.</em>—The
+statement of Courts-martial, which I shall
+present to Lord Wellington to-morrow, satisfies me that
+we are mending, and that we have not tried fifty cases,
+hung eight, transported eight or ten, flogged about sixty
+severely, and broke several officers—for nothing. I have
+now only eighteen left in hand, and three of these very
+old cases. We had one very melancholy piece of business
+here last week: a young corporal, Mac Morran, a Scotchman
+in the 42nd, was reprimanded mildly by his officer,
+Lieutenant Dickenson, for neglect of duty; he answered
+rather impertinently, and was then told to consider himself
+a prisoner, and to follow. Having walked a few
+yards, Lieutenant Dickenson looked round, and the corporal,
+having (no one knows how) loaded his musket,
+levelled it at him, and shot him dead through the heart.
+The corporal has been tried, and is to be hung to-morrow.
+They were both under twenty years of age, I hear, and
+the most promising young men in their respective
+stations. The officer was a man of mild, humane character.
+The corporal made no defence: it seemed an
+excess of Scotch pride. It is altogether a very painful
+business.</p>
+
+<p>We have still very cold north-east winds, and to-day a
+little fall of sleet, hail, and stormy, windy, black sky.
+Lord Wellington is gone hunting, which gives me a little
+time.</p>
+
+<p>I hear the French are moving; two divisions of
+Soult’s army are said to be retiring behind the Douro,
+near Valladolid: and I am told they are engaged in
+fortifying all the fords and bridges near the Douro, at
+Toro, Tordesillas, Aranda de Douro, &amp;c. Probably they<span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</span>
+will make a grand stand on that river; where, from what
+I saw, they have great advantages, for the banks on our
+side are low and flat, and on their side, towards France
+(the right bank) high and commanding, and the position
+on that side also strong. It is thought the slight movement
+in advance of one of our divisions, the fourth, from
+St. Jean de Piscara, merely for convenience of supplies
+and change of air, caused this movement on the part of
+the French, who only stay down about Toledo, probably,
+for food.</p>
+
+<p>Accounts have just come in from one of our look-out
+officers, who live close to the French, and act as spies,
+and have correspondence with them—a Captain ——,
+who was here a fortnight since. He says that the
+French are all moving, and apparently towards the other
+side of the Douro. Joseph has left Madrid. His
+informers state that the French are going at once behind
+the Ebro; but he himself thinks not, as they would not
+willingly give up the fine country between the Douro
+and Ebro for nothing, and have fortified, report says, the
+passes. So we stand. Conjectures are made, that our
+advance will not be the same as last year, through Salamanca,
+as we have no great depôt being made yet this
+way at Rodrigo, and should have to force these passes on
+the Douro; whereas some depôts are being formed in
+Portugal near the Douro, more in the north of Portugal;
+and we could in that direction cross the Douro without
+opposition, turn all these French works on that river, and
+join the Spanish army in Gallicia, but the roads in that
+case will be much worse. I hope we may go that road,
+and thus see a new country, and in part, I believe, a fine
+one. There is one fine pass in the Agava, only five
+leagues hence, at Barba del Puerto, which I have never
+yet had time to visit, but shall do so, if possible, after the
+rain, provided we remain here.</p>
+
+<p>Lord Wellington, in conversation the other day, told<span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</span>
+me that some Spaniards of rank had talked to him about
+educating their children at a Roman Catholic school in
+England, if there were such. I knew of one or two good
+girls’ schools, but could not remember any good Roman
+Catholic boys’ school.</p>
+
+<p>We have a most furious Portuguese lady now here,
+the wife of a hidalgo of Portugal, whose daughter was
+run away with by an English officer. Lord Wellington
+told her that he would give him up to the laws of Portugal;
+but as he has now married her, Lord Wellington
+says he will not interfere at all. The woman swears that
+she will get the priest who married them transported for
+life by their law, as well as the officer, and has moreover
+declared she will kill the daughter if she meets her!</p>
+
+<p>As to Mr. R——, concerning whom you inquire, I
+know nothing about him: we have a <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">ci-devant</i> major of
+that name just arrived here. He is full of travellers’
+stories; has been long a prisoner in France: had a prefect’s
+wife for his <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">chère amie</i>; escaped with wonderful
+risks; joined the Guerillas, got to the coast, and off, I
+believe, to Cadiz. I am told that he is to be an officer
+in a new horse-police staff corps about to be established.</p>
+
+<p><em>30th March, Tuesday, 4 o’clock.</em>—I have presented four
+Courts-martial to Lord Wellington, and sent one back
+for revision as illegal, and confirmed three, two against
+one man—together, two thousand lashes. This is absurd,
+he will bear six or seven hundred, and there it will end.
+The sentence, however, is legal, which it was not before,
+when transportation was the punishment. Lord Wellington
+now addresses me with the familiar “How are
+you?” So we go on more easily, and I made a sort of
+proposal to him to insert a passage in general orders now,
+to be read to the men every day until we march, to let
+them know that a new police corps was established to
+catch them, and to tell them that seven officers would be<span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</span>
+sufficient now to hang them, and that Courts would be
+held always ready in every division. He said he would
+think about it, and thought it would be of use.</p>
+
+<p>Dr. M’Gregor told me yesterday, that his sick-list was
+improving daily, and that if Lord Wellington would give
+him another month he thought he should bring the
+greater part into the field. King Joseph, I have just
+heard, arrived at Valladolid from Madrid on the 23rd
+instant; Lord Fitzroy Somerset just read it out of a
+Spanish private letter.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Frenada, Sunday, April 4th, 1813.</em>—You
+will observe that I do know when Sunday comes,
+although that is certainly nearly all. We, however, have
+a church and a bell, which goes on tolling for hours in a
+most unattractive manner. We have a church, too,
+which is made use of for various purposes, civil as well as
+ecclesiastical; for instance, one night about one hundred
+and fifty Spaniards and their mules, officers and all, slept
+in it. The building is large, considering the size of the
+village, the floor covered with straw like a stable, but the
+end where the altar is, is all gold and glitter up to the
+ceiling. The decorations must originally have been very
+expensive, for, besides the great expenditure of gold-leaf
+and foil, and carving, all the ceiling, which is coved and
+circular, and divided into squares, has a picture of a saint,
+or a father, a founder, a hermit, or some great divinity
+hero, in every square. Masses, the funeral service, weddings,
+and christenings, are also performed there. I just
+look in now and then, for it is awkward to stand there,
+when all are on their knees on the floor. There is also a
+little chapel belonging to the owner of Lord Wellington’s
+house; which is fitted up by Colonel G—— for his quarters.
+He has hung it with red baize, fitted up the altar
+as his dressing-table, put up an iron stove, and made it
+one of the best quarters here.</p>
+
+<p>Lord Wellington looks forward very coolly to another<span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</span>
+winter here. He said yesterday he should have twenty-five
+couples of fox-hounds next season. The other day
+the Commissary-general told him that we had eaten
+nearly all the oxen in the country, that the cultivation of
+the lands in Portugal could not go on for want of them,
+and that he scarcely knew where to turn for a supply of
+beef, as there was this year no reserve store near Lisbon.
+Lord Wellington said, “Well, then, we must now set
+about eating all the sheep, and when they are gone I
+suppose we must go.” And General M—— added,
+“Historians will say that the British army came and
+carried on war in Spain and Portugal until they had
+eaten all the beef and mutton in the country, and were
+then compelled to withdraw.” Without joking, I fear
+our Commissariat may have great difficulties next year.
+Talking on this subject, I must add that the Portuguese
+agent here, a sly, money-making man, who has realized
+about 25,000<em>l.</em> during the war, said the news was so
+good, that he now hoped to get a peace, and that the
+Portuguese would get rid of the “beefs,” meaning the
+English. Communication as to necessary articles and
+others is so difficult with Lisbon, that one of Lord Wellington’s
+aides-de-camp has been six months getting two
+bridles up, and C. Campbell four months in getting up a
+great coat.</p>
+
+<p>Lord Wellington yesterday, talking of his soldiers and
+English notions, observed that his men were now all so
+round-shouldered and slouching in their gait, that he
+was sure, if his regiment here was in its present state
+to pass in review at Wimbledon Common, the whole
+would be sent to drill immediately, and declared quite
+unfit for service. Indeed, he added, that the men had
+now got into such a way of doing everything in the
+easiest manner, that he was often quite ashamed of the
+sentries before his own quarter. He did not mention
+this by way of complaint, but as showing how ideas here<span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</span>
+and at home differed. He also laughed at our notions in
+England about the supply of the army, saying that some
+corporate body or society in England had once made him
+an offer of twenty bullocks for the army, which would
+last head-quarters only about a week. General M——
+said it must have been a mistake—the offer must have
+been for his table only; not for the army.</p>
+
+<p>Orders, it is said, are gone round for the Alicant army
+to be re-embarked and landed in the rear of Suchet, to
+compel him to quit Valencia if possible; this will be the
+first step I conclude. You say you are all looking to us,
+and want us to move. Our black clouds have all rolled
+away, and to-day we have again a clear north wind and
+hot sun, and not a blade of grass growing; without the
+latter we cannot stir. If the rains will but come soon
+and bring grass, we may, perhaps, move in the first week
+of May, but not before: that is, no important move can
+take place. Our cavalry, though down below Coimbra,
+are very much distressed for food, and complaints come
+up without number from the Portuguese that our people
+will feed their horses with the young corn, which is now
+great waste; but what is to be done? When we have
+finished the oxen we may go, as Lord Wellington says,
+to the sheep, but what are horses to do when hay is all
+gone, and straw, and there is no grass come? How little
+you know in England about the real state of things here,
+and the requisites for moving in a campaign! You
+forget our ten or fifteen thousand animals for baggage
+and for food, besides the cavalry and artillery, &amp;c. The
+Portuguese agent here repeats that another campaign in
+Portugal will be impossible, for there will be neither
+animals to eat, nor for transport, unless we bring all with
+us. I hope, however, not to pass another winter at Frenada;
+but so hoped those who were here last year.</p>
+
+<p>Did I ever mention to you Lord Wellington’s saying
+how anxious the Prince Regent was that he should correspond<span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</span>
+with him, and how much hurt he was that he had
+never done so. “But,” observed Lord Wellington, “I
+wrote to his ministers, and that was enough. What had
+I to do with him? However, his late favour was a reason
+for my writing, and I have had a most gracious answer,
+evidently courting further correspondence;” but which he
+intimated he should not comply with.</p>
+
+<p>I understand the famous Guerillas are much more
+dreaded by their own countrymen in the north of Spain
+than the French, and I fear with some reason, as they are
+(many of them, at least) very much like banditti. The
+French, however, suffered so much by them, that they
+have adopted the same plan, and have their counter
+Guerillas; some with French officers to conduct them,
+and some headed by Guerilla chiefs, who have quarrelled
+and separated from their companions in the good cause.
+I was sorry to hear this. The French continue moving
+about, and their force towards the Tagus diminishes.</p>
+
+<p>You have my news as I hear it: we are now getting
+ready ammunition, &amp;c., to the front, to prepare for an
+advance when possible; so, perhaps, we may pass Rodrigo,
+and cross the Douro to the left of Salamanca, if the French
+stand on that river, as we have now this year pontoons,
+which we had not last year. We have also a new and
+more portable battering-train, come out from England,
+which has arrived as far as Abrantes, where it only waits
+for means of transport to come on here. That which we
+had here last year, I am told, was excessively clumsy.</p>
+
+<p><em>April 7th.</em>—I have heard a number of anecdotes of
+General Craufurd. All admit that he was very clever
+and knowing in his profession, and led on his division on
+the day of his death in the most gallant style; but Lord
+Wellington never knew what he would do. He constantly
+acted in his own way, contrary to orders: and as he commanded
+the advanced division, at times perplexed Lord
+Wellington considerably, who never could be sure where<span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</span>
+he was. On one occasion, near Guinaldo, he remained
+across a river by himself; that is, with his own division
+only, nearly a whole day after he was called in by Lord
+Wellington. He said he knew that he could defend his
+position. Lord Wellington, when he came back, only
+said, “I am glad to see you safe, Craufurd.” To which
+the latter replied, “Oh, I was in no danger, I assure you.”
+“But I was, from your conduct,” said Lord Wellington.
+Upon which Craufurd observed, “He is d—— crusty
+to-day.”</p>
+
+<p>Marmont, when he saw Craufurd filing off next morning,
+could not believe it: “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Diable! voilà Craufurd! ma foi,
+j’aurais pu deviner cela.</i>” Another time, Lord Wellington
+said, “Craufurd, you are going into a delicate
+situation; what orders do you wish for? I will write
+what you think best.” Craufurd told him his own plan
+and went away. Whilst Lord Wellington was writing
+them out, and acting accordingly, Craufurd sent him word
+that he had done something else. On another occasion,
+Lord Wellington sent to him to say he should inspect his
+division, and came accordingly. Craufurd never attended
+until it was half over, and then said that Lord Wellington
+was before his time; yet he was very strict with his own
+division, and would be very exactly obeyed. His division
+all complained of this, and many officers talked of who
+should call him out, on one or two occasions, for this.
+Yet he was so much valued, and the whole division had
+such confidence in him, that, when he joined them again
+just before the attack to take the command in the
+engagement in which he died, the whole division set up
+a loud shout, so as to frighten a small party of French
+who were near, who did not know what was the matter,
+and they ran away. Lord Wellington knew his merits
+and humoured him. It was surprising what he bore from
+him at times.</p>
+
+<p>Lord Wellington celebrated the day of the storming of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</span>
+Badajoz with a grand dinner yesterday; only those
+present at that event were invited. Lord Aylmer had a
+rival dinner-party, at which was General Murray, &amp;c.,
+where I dined also. If the good news brings peace, what
+will become of your humble servant and many others
+here? “Othello’s occupation’s gone!”</p>
+
+<p>General Murray is apparently very clever and clearheaded.
+In my opinion, he comes next to Lord Wellington,
+as far as I have seen. We are all full of the news,
+for a paper of the 22nd has arrived at Oporto several
+days later than the mail. We now know about Hamburg
+and Cuxhaven, Berlin, &amp;c. I fear that the French
+will be driven together into one large body, and may then
+be more than a match for any one army opposed to them,
+but they will be considerably cowed and disheartened.
+When will the Dutch be roused to do anything? Now
+or never is their time!</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="fs80" style="margin-left: 2em; text-indent: -2em;">News of the French—Castilian Costume—Equipment of the Army—Melancholy
+Court-martial Case—Wellington in the Battle of Fuentes
+d’Onore—The Chances of War—Anecdotes of Wellington—His Opinions
+of the War—The New Mutiny Act—Wellington on “Vetus”—General
+Murray—Advance of the French.</p>
+
+<p class="right fs80">
+Head-quarters, Frenada, April 12, 1813.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p class="no-indent">
+<span class="smcap">My dear M——</span>,
+</p>
+
+<p><span style="padding-left: 2em">From</span> what I hear, if we could only get grass,
+Lord Wellington would move about the second week in
+May. There is no immediate prospect of this, as you will
+perceive, when I tell you that the Military Secretary has
+sent all his horses nearly a hundred miles off for grass.</p>
+
+<p>The news here is, that some more of the French, about
+twenty men from every regiment, are ordered home.
+Some, but I believe no great number hitherto, are actually
+gone: and about three or four thousand conscripts are
+supposed to have arrived in Spain to fill up the vacancies
+of the old soldiers removed. Head-quarters will not now
+probably move until we march; and, from report, we
+shall not go to Guinaldo, but stay here quietly until the
+army is drawn up around us, ready to move.</p>
+
+<p>The clergy, both here and in Spain, are in general, I
+understand, fortunately of the same opinion as to the
+Pope’s signing the Concordat, as you say the emigrants
+are; that he did it from compulsion, or that a different
+instrument was substituted for his signature. It was
+feared that artful plan would have assisted Bonaparte
+in Spain.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</span></p>
+
+<p>I hear the same accounts of the state of commerce at
+Lisbon as George sends from London. Old Colonel
+Arentschild here says, “She (meaning England) will
+make enough in Germany, by trade, to enable her, in the
+first six months, to carry on the war for two years, if
+necessary.” I fear the news in the papers concerning
+the Prince of Orange was rather premature. He states,
+that he has hitherto had no offer except from the Continent,
+nor heard anything from the newspaper. It will
+prove a prophecy, I hope, instead of a fact. He seems a
+very amiable, deserving youth, is liked by every one, and
+has had the greatest of all advantages for a young prince,
+that of being educated in a great measure with persons
+who have behaved to him as if he were their equal. So,
+indeed, he is treated now; except that he has a little
+more respect paid to him, which I believe is really felt,
+for he lives nearly on terms of equality with Lord Fitzroy
+Somerset, Lord March, Colonel G——, &amp;c., and is quite
+one of the set, and is little or no restraint to any one. I
+met him, two days ago, scrambling down on the banks of
+the Coa, three miles off, by himself on foot. He must
+just now have some interesting subjects for contemplation,
+and I have no doubt some very flattering visions
+pass through his brain.</p>
+
+<p>I am looking so much better than when I arrived at
+head-quarters, that Lord Wellington and several others
+think I am an exception to the general rule, and that the
+climate here agrees with me. Lord Wellington says he
+has had so many ill and dead since he has been here, that
+he does not like to think of it; many, like General Hulse,
+&amp;c., whose loss he feels in every way. He says now, he
+is always ready to let every one go home when first he
+complains, and is disposed to tell every one who looks ill
+to be off.</p>
+
+<p>I have just seen some very handsome specimens of the
+Castilian dresses, male and female, of the higher classes<span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</span>
+of rich peasantry, made I believe, by a tailor from Salamanca.
+The three female dresses Lord Wellington means
+to give to his nieces for masquerades; they are covered
+with work—embroidery, lace, and gold; he gives two
+thousand dollars for them. The man’s dress was for
+Lord March, and is certainly most becoming to almost
+every one.</p>
+
+<p>I must now go and consider the new intended Bill to
+punish our offenders here, which Lord Beresford has sent
+for Lord Wellington to consult him upon it, and he has
+sent it to me—the draught of the intended Act I mean;
+and as every one makes some observation, I must make
+a few also. So, for the present, adieu.</p>
+
+<p>I never told you that some of our military great boys
+here got very tipsy on the commemoration of the fall of
+Badajoz, and went to a poor <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Juge de Fores</i>, that is a
+Portugal law magistrate, who was on a visit, and poured
+a bottle of blacking partly in his mouth, and partly over
+him, at twelve at night; and then made him dress, and
+go and help break poor C——’s only pane of glass, and
+upset his bed, as he had retired. Soldiers, lawyers, and
+all, I see, are boys at times alike.</p>
+
+<p><em>April 13th.</em>—Much too hot for hunting I should
+think; but all the sportsmen are out. Lord Wellington
+has not got good horses to be idle; he works them well.
+Besides all the hunting, &amp;c., the day before yesterday,
+after doing business until twelve o’clock, off he went by
+himself, without saying a word to any one, across to
+Ciudad Rodrigo, seventeen miles off, inspected all the
+works, and was back again here in five hours and a half
+to dinner. He says that they are now going on very
+well there, and seems to be a little anxious about his own
+town. I suspect when we do move that we shall get on
+fast, for Lord Wellington will like to pass the Douro
+before the French know his plans.</p>
+
+<p><em>Wednesday, April 14th, Post-day.</em>—This will be but a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</span>
+stupid packet, as I have no news or events here to communicate.
+General Castanos arrived here yesterday in a
+great lumbering carriage, with eight mules and ropes
+from Cadiz, on his way to his division. He called here
+for instructions.</p>
+
+<p>We have had in my own line another murder: a
+private grenadier of the Buffs shot his officer, on their
+private parade at Placencia, in the second division, from
+the window of his quarter, just opposite to that of the
+officer, and just as he came out to the men, who were all
+there. The officer was Lieutenant Annesley. The
+grenadier wounded a sergeant at the same time, and was
+instantly secured. No quarrel or disagreement was
+known, but he said that he was satisfied he had killed
+his enemy, and the day before, when another man committed
+suicide, he said, “What a fool, not to kill his
+enemy first, if he had one!” The officer is well spoken
+of. The conduct of the grenadier resembles madness
+more than anything else, yet they say he was not mad;
+I have just sent out a charge against him, and an order
+for his trial.</p>
+
+<p>Our own army is now quite clothed, I believe. I fear
+that the Portuguese are only in the middle of theirs, and
+will not have finished these three weeks. You have no
+notion what there is to be done before an army like
+ours is fit to move in such a country as this. We have
+been three months getting up these clothes from Lisbon
+for our men; the tents have not yet arrived for
+head-quarters, and some say that only the army are
+to use them. I suppose, however, that we must carry
+them.</p>
+
+<p>Lord Tweeddale continues here as an amateur, and
+will probably advance with us. When we march I may
+not be able to write so often, as our time will be much
+occupied, and pen and ink will not be always at hand.
+An order has just now come out to pay everything up to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</span>
+the 24th of December, that the officers may have a little
+money to prepare for the march.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Frenada, April 17th, 1813.</em>—The corn
+looks very ill about this place, very thin, very yellow,
+and indeed positively very bad crops. Whether this is,
+however, also only comparatively bad as to other years I
+cannot say; it would appear to be so to some extent.
+The soil is here very poor, and I suspect the harvest is
+never very abundant. Several parts of Spain have this
+year suffered much from the want of rain, and the very
+early heat of the weather; Estremadura in particular:
+where the sun has been very powerful, everything has
+been burnt up. My authority for this is General
+O’Donoghue.</p>
+
+<p>In my own department I have another rather melancholy
+story. Mr. M——, a clerk in the commissariat
+department, had been guilty of fraud and embezzlement of
+stores (some pork, rice, and milk), to no great amount, as
+far as I could prove under 20<em>l.</em>; but it was sold out of the
+store at Galigas, in a neighbouring village. By Lord
+Wellington’s orders I made out a charge against M——,
+and sent it to him at Coimbra, with an order from the
+Commissary for him to attend under close arrest at Cea
+to take his trial, as the witnesses were near Galigas.
+Soon after the receipt of this letter and order he shot himself,
+and has thus put an end to the whole business. He
+was well connected in England, it is said, has respectable
+friends, and was in a good situation there. A woman
+with whom he lived here, I believe, was the cause of the
+whole. When he turned her off she stirred up the witnesses
+against him, and was the cause of its being made
+known to Sir R. Kennedy, and by his means to Lord
+Wellington, when of course a prosecution was inevitable.
+By the Mutiny Act he was liable to transportation for
+life, fine, imprisonment, or pillory: and he could not stand
+the disgrace. He partly admitted the charge, but pleaded<span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</span>
+sickness and distress. It was unfortunate that the discovery
+fell on such a subject, for it was, I believe, the first
+falling off from general good conduct.</p>
+
+<p>I have now got a Court-martial in the fourth division,
+the only one which has been hitherto free, to sit near
+Escalpaon, and to try three fellows for going out at night
+and stealing seven sheep, keeping sentry as a guard over
+the two shepherds, whilst they skinned the sheep and
+divided the meat; two other men, of better characters,
+were with them, and they are therefore to be admitted as
+witnesses against the three. The Court at Coimbra has
+suffered the two worst fellows to escape almost with twelve
+hundred lashes; they ought to have been hung, for they
+are desperate fellows, both Irishmen. They have been
+most mutinous and insolent whilst under trial, and one of
+them, a few days since, said he did not know whether he
+was to be hung or flogged this time, but if the latter, he
+would take care next time that there should be no witnesses
+to tell of what he had done.</p>
+
+<p>Lord Wellington said at dinner the day before yesterday,
+“We must move by the end of the first week in
+May, that’s positive.” And then spoke sharply to
+Colonel F—— of the artillery, because the artillery was
+not arrived. The Colonel coolly replied, “My lord, I do
+not think the artillery have been, or will be, the cause of
+your lordship staying at Frenada. Transport is the great
+difficulty—animals are so scarce. The Portuguese make
+much money, but are afraid of spending it, or getting or
+breeding animals for fear of their being seized or embargoed.”
+An engineer has been appointed and sent to each
+division, and a messenger or Spanish courier (who arrived
+three days since in four days from Cadiz post), was last
+night sent post round through Seville to Alicant. Something,
+therefore, is in agitation, and all this looks like
+preparation for moving. He expected to arrive at Alicant
+in eight days at furthest, if not in seven.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</span></p>
+
+<p>Lord Wellington the other day was again talking of
+the battle of Fuentes d’Onore. He said that he was
+obliged to ride hard to escape, and thought at one time, as
+he was on a slow horse, that he should have been taken.
+The whole of head-quarters, general and all, he added,
+English dragoons and French dragoons, were all galloping
+away together across the plain, and he more than once
+saw a French dragoon in a green coat within twenty
+yards of him. One Frenchman got quite past them all,
+and they could not knock him off his horse. At last they
+caught his bridle and stopped him.</p>
+
+<p><em>21st April.</em>—We sup early (as you call your late
+dinners) here, and are as smart as you are in England in
+that respect. At present half-past seven is the hour.
+We cannot change this hour till Lord Wellington does,
+for business is now going on till six. We also beat the
+most fashionable in London in one respect, for we have no
+female society at all here. There is one lady here, Mrs.
+S——, and that is all the English we see, once in a week
+perhaps; and then the men preponderate so that the tone
+of the society is quite male. There is one Portuguese
+lady, niece to the Capitan Mor here, or principal resident
+inhabitant: but she is ugly, and said to be perfumed too
+strongly with oily salt fish. She is no favourite, and is
+very little noticed. Her little uncle hunts with Lord
+Wellington on a little country pony, and does wonders
+in that way; he seems an active little Portuguese.</p>
+
+<p>Lieutenant-Colonel W——, in the Adjutant-general’s
+Department here, who was ill when I joined, has now
+returned. He has had some curious adventures in this
+country. He once fell in, accompanied by two dragoons,
+with a small party of French, close to their main body,
+who were attending some baggage. He, his men consenting,
+attacked the French, beat them off, plundered
+their baggage, and brought off the best mule. The
+latter he kept himself, and has it here now, and the two<span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</span>
+soldiers took the money, &amp;c. On another occasion, he was
+riding quietly with Captain D——, of the same department,
+on the advance from the lines at Torres Vedras on
+the retreat of Massena. They were quietly jogging on,
+and were about to enter a place intended to be English
+head-quarters that day. When close to it, they found the
+French were still there in force, and saw three French
+dragoons close upon them, who, however, did not see
+them. They resolved to attack by surprise. They
+knocked two off from their horses, and attacked the third;
+he got away and they pursued him. In the mean time
+the other two set off. It ended, however, in W—— and
+D—— securing one dragoon horse, and some other booty,
+with which they got safely away. Soon after this Lieutenant-Colonel
+W—— was himself taken prisoner at
+Sabugal, when the French advanced during the siege of
+Badajoz. He was then mounted on this very dragoon
+horse, which he had kept as booty; the horse was known
+by the French when he was carried in. He was asked
+how he came by the horse? He said he bought it of a
+soldier; and as the three Frenchmen had reported that
+they had been attacked by a “dozen men in buckram,”
+and had said nothing of two officers, it all went off well,
+and he kept their secret and his own. He refused to give
+his parole, and was therefore ill fed, and kept prisoner
+with privates, and treated like the rest, except that they
+let him ride Dragon, as he had christened his horse.</p>
+
+<p>Near Salamanca, a Spanish friend to whom he had
+been kind came to offer his services to him: “Only get
+me a new pair of very sharp rowels to my spurs,” said
+he, “that is all I want.” This was done, and on the
+next day, the party, a whole French column of infantry,
+marched on at daybreak about seven. Just near the end
+of the wood, near Salamanca, in a wide open part of the
+road, he observed that most of the French horsemen were
+dismounted; so turning about, he used his new rowels<span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</span>
+strongly, got the start of them in some way, and was off.
+He galloped till he heard no one behind him. At first
+there was a shout of “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Le Mayo, le Mayo</i>,” and some pursued;
+he then crossed another road where another
+French party was, got round by the mountains, reached,
+I think, Tamones by eleven that night, and to Fuentes
+d’Onore next day safely. The French had fed their
+horses in the fields at night on grass, and were soon
+blown. He had refused to suffer his horse to leave him,
+and gave him only a little bran, yet though his horse
+was a slow one too, he thus got safely off. He has since
+sold the horse. Lord Wellington asked him “Why?”
+He said, “Because, my lord, I was very near being taken
+again on him when with your lordship at the battle of
+Fuentes d’Onore, and that would be awkward, as the
+horse is known by the French.” He seems an odd
+character.</p>
+
+<p>The Commissaries all live here exceedingly well, the
+Lord knows how out of their pay; and that ought to be
+nearly their only advantage.</p>
+
+<p><em>Frenada, Head-Quarters, April 24, 1813.</em>—Four
+Generals have arrived—Graham, Fane, Picton, and
+Oswald: Sir Stapleton Cotton, who has received orders
+to command the whole cavalry, has, however, not yet
+arrived, and is much wanted; but Graham and Picton
+are very good officers.</p>
+
+<p>Lord Wellington, a few days since, said that he
+hoped the Spaniards were in many respects getting on
+much better; that there was a numerous body now well
+clothed at least, and armed and tolerably disciplined;
+that he was always ordering the drills to go on with
+spirit, and by perseverance he thought they were much
+improving; that he never interfered with the mode, but
+asked what their military rules and laws were, and then
+said, “Well, that is very good; now mind and see that
+they are put in force, and, remember, it is not I but your<span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</span>
+law orders this; I have only to see your laws executed,
+which are very good, and they must be obeyed.” He
+said, the Staff here seemed well satisfied.</p>
+
+<p>The artillery is what Lord Wellington rails at most.
+They cannot get on so well as he thinks they ought, or
+at least as he wants them to do. I do not mean in
+particular at this moment, but generally. The officers
+commanding this part of the army are rather heavy and
+slow, or, as Lord Wellington said himself one day of a
+late commander, “I took care to let him feel that I
+thought him very stupid.” “That must have been,”
+General Murray said privately, “by telling him so in
+plain terms, I have no doubt.” Colonel F——, who
+commanded the artillery at the battle of Salamanca, and
+who is very well spoken of by every one, but at times, I
+believe, is slow, was once with Lord Wellington at an
+audience when things went wrong, and Lord Wellington
+got irate, who told him pretty nearly that his friend
+concerning whom he was inquiring “might go to h—.”
+Colonel F—— came muttering out, “I’ll go, Sir, to the
+Quarter-Master-general for a route,” which Lord Wellington
+heard, and laughed at well.</p>
+
+<p>General Murray says that on hunting-days he could
+get almost anything done, for Lord Wellington stands
+whip in hand ready to start, and soon despatches all
+business. Some of the Generals, Lord Wellington
+observed one day, used to come and hunt and then get
+on business, and get him to answer things in a hasty way,
+which he did not intend, but which they acted upon.
+“Oh, d—— them,” said he, “I won’t speak to them
+again when we are hunting.” Colonel F——’s friend
+on his route to his destination would have found plenty
+of fuel but less green forage than we have here.</p>
+
+<p>By all accounts the first day after we were in Badajoz,
+the scene was very shocking in every way.
+Nothing but dead and wounded on all sides, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</span>
+drunkenness and plunder in all directions. Even Lord
+Wellington, when in the street with his staff, was followed
+by drunken soldiers, continually firing feux-de-joie
+over his head with ball-cartridges, and never thinking
+where the balls went.</p>
+
+<p>The Portuguese Government have got bolder, and
+have tried some of our people by their laws, when caught
+in the act, and have sent two or three of them to the
+coast of Africa. If this were generally known, it would
+do more good, I believe, than our flogging. Lord
+Wellington said formerly, that their government always
+declined trying our people themselves, but now they
+generally accepted the offer when made. Lieutenant
+K——, of the Guards, who was tried and acquitted last
+week of ordering a sentry to fire and killing a native, was
+very much alarmed lest the Portuguese should try him,
+as it was at first agreed. It was a hasty act on his part,
+but there was a slight riot, and I think in law he was
+properly acquitted, for he was struck with a stone by
+some one in the mob which was collected.</p>
+
+<p>My cases are now rather increasing again, I think, and
+will probably continue until we march. I have had two
+very blackguard officers to try in the Royal Drivers’ corps.
+Sheep-stealing has now succeeded to pig-shooting, as pork
+is out of season. The horses are now like mad when
+turned out, and are scampering all over the country.</p>
+
+<p>I had a long conversation with Lord Wellington yesterday.
+After discussing our business up and down the
+market-place, he said that “the want of rain began to be
+very alarming; but that as soon as the pontoons arrived
+he would be off. The heavy artillery have started two or
+three days since from Castello Branco, and will be here
+by the 31st. The pontoons are stuck somewhere on the
+road.” He discussed the war here, and in the North,
+with me: observing that, “a country ought to think well
+before it undertook to do what Spain did; that, certainly,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</span>
+Spain and Portugal were the fittest places to try the
+experiment of a battle for the mere soil, because in general
+there was nothing else in the country much worth
+fighting for, or which could be much damaged.”</p>
+
+<p>“As, for instance,” he added, “what is this village
+worth? burn it, and a few hundreds would make it as
+good as ever with a little labour; but now,” he continued,
+“he believed that a great portion of the Spaniards began
+to be very anxious to bring the business to a close; they
+had rather that we should beat out the French and be off,
+but, next to that, they had sooner the French beat us out,
+and had quiet possession, than that such a war as that of
+the last three years should be continued.” He said “he
+thought the Cortes were going on ill; that they were
+unpopular, knew it, and did not know how to set about
+becoming otherwise; that he disapproved of their meddling
+with the royal feudal tithes, or church property, and
+particularly with the elections of the next assembly, with
+which he thought they had nothing to do. They have
+declared the elections of one district all void, from some
+informality, and as the new elections have run much upon
+priests, they have been trying to make these void, as
+being within the clause concerning placemen in their
+constitution—‘that no placeman was to be elected for his
+own district.’ However,” he continued, “in the present
+state of things all the real and urgent business, and what
+is now the most material, namely, all relating to the army
+and the war, is done here, at Frenada, and let them
+squabble at Cadiz; if they will leave us alone, I don’t
+care. Portugal is for some time quite safe and out of the
+scrape, and if things go on well I think Spain will be out
+of the scrape also.” “But,” he added, “he should be
+almost sorry to see such a war as this has been carried on
+all over Germany, where there is so much to destroy, and
+to be lost.”</p>
+
+<p>In spite of the poverty of the country and the difficulty<span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</span>
+as to obtaining bullocks, we have somehow or other
+collected one thousand here to begin the campaign with:
+I hear one hundred and fifty fine ones for the artillery.</p>
+
+<p><em>April 26th.</em>—I am kept going to the last minute. A
+number of new cases are come in, and I am very busy
+again; the more so, as the time is so short, and so uncertain
+when all my Courts are to break up. I cannot get
+below a dozen cases in hand, for new ones arise faster
+than I try the old ones.</p>
+
+<p>I have just heard from Coimbra, that one Court-martial
+is broken up by a division of cavalry moving down to
+Oporto. I do not quite understand this, but conclude
+that they will pass the river somewhere below, and so
+march through the Tras os Montes, and join us again on
+the other side of the Douro, and have a good untouched
+country to advance through—otherwise this does not look
+like a march. No one knows, however, and probably I
+know as much as the Adjutant-General. I must now
+write to Lord Wellington; this movement at Coimbra
+has disturbed two of my Coimbra cases very much.</p>
+
+<p>The new Mutiny Act has been sent out to me. There
+are several changes, one I see which I suggested; but the
+business is very much bungled. The Mutiny Act and
+Articles of War are now at variance, as the latter have
+not been altered with the former. By the first, an officer
+may be tried here by a Court of seven members; by
+the articles, there must be thirteen.</p>
+
+<p>Some of the fifth division have, I hear, moved across the
+Douro at Lamego. This confirms the opinion I have
+given above, especially as D’Urban’s Portuguese cavalry
+are all north of the Mondego, and have been some time
+there. This will disturb another of my Courts. Lord
+Wellington says, that the witnesses must follow and try
+and catch the Court; but I am no hunter, and shall try
+to remove the case to another place. I dine with Lord
+Wellington.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</span></p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Frenada, Saturday May 1st, 1813.</em>—This
+last week I have again been very busy, and shall
+remain so, no doubt, until we move. This will probably
+be in a week or so, for our wings are in motion. The
+cavalry round by Oporto, as I mentioned before, and some
+Portuguese infantry, under Colonel Hamilton, are advancing
+to Alcantara from near Portalegre and Eloss.
+We shall soon be drawing together, but head-quarters, I
+have very little doubt, will be the last to move. We have
+just got the “<cite>Spanish Gazette</cite>,” of Seville, with Elio’s
+letter, stating the victory gained by General Murray near
+Alicant, and his driving Suchet back with loss, through
+Bejar and Villana to Fuente Higuera. I conclude you
+will have heard this in England before this reaches you.
+We have no English account, but Lord Wellington seems
+to consider it very good news. He came running into the
+Military Secretary’s room, where I was yesterday, to
+communicate this, saying, “Murray has beat Suchet,
+Fitzroy.” I always expected the fighting would begin in
+that quarter this campaign. We got also yesterday from
+Lisbon the almost incredible good news that Austria had
+agreed to join the Allies with eighty thousand men in
+Germany, and one hundred thousand in Italy, and that
+Davoust and Grenier had been again defeated. Lord
+Wellington seems rather to give credit to all this. Poor
+Bony will go mad if it should prove all to be true.</p>
+
+<p>A few days since at dinner at Lord Wellington’s, he
+got upon the subject of “Vetus.” He said, “He thought
+he knew the author, and that he had been in India—not
+Mackintosh, as reported here.” He then went on to
+say, “he did not think much of Vetus’s letters:<a id="FNanchor_3" href="#Footnote_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> that
+many of his facts as to this country were quite without
+foundation; that neither Vetus, nor the O. P.’s, nor<span class="pagenum" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</span>
+Lord Wellesley, knew anything about the war here, and
+what could or could not be done; that he fully believed
+Government had done all they could; that the men who
+did come could not have been here sooner, and perhaps
+had better have come still later; that more cavalry he
+could not have employed, had he had them at Lisbon,
+for want of transport for food; that when he advanced
+formerly to Talavera, he left several thousand men at
+Lisbon, because he could not supply them had they been
+with the army; that even now he could not have brought
+up the Hussar brigade into the field, unless by draughting
+home the three regiments whose men he lately had
+sent back, and thus setting at liberty their transport;
+that the Guards, Life and Blues, he knew of some time
+since, and sent five months ago to Estremadura to collect
+mules for their supply; that every two dragoons employed
+a mule to feed the men and horses, and that all
+this difficulty in the detail was quite unknown at home.
+In short, he said, Lord Wellesley knew nothing about
+the matter, and he had no reason to be dissatisfied with
+Government at home.” All this made several of us
+stare. I am told that Lord Wellington was very angry
+with Lord Wellesley for his resignation, and hardly
+spoke to any one for some days after he had heard the
+fact. Lord Paget has just sent up here two of the
+Hussars, a corporal and a private, to wait as orderlies on
+my lord the peer; two very fine fellows. This was done
+out of compliment. They will only be ruined at head-quarters,
+which is a terrible place for soldiers and servants;
+over-pay, great idleness, and every third house a
+vine-house.</p>
+
+<p>I have just read Mrs. M. A. Clark and the Messrs.
+Fitzgerald’s, &amp;c., which Lord Fitzroy Somerset sent me
+by desire of Lord Wellington. It is a curious production,
+and very ingenious as I understand it, merely as a
+punishment on the Chancellor of the Exchequer for not<span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</span>
+letting her profit by the Treasury, and, at the same time,
+a strong inducement to all others in her favour, held over
+their heads <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">in terrorem</i>, not to be guilty of equal ingratitude;
+that is, not to neglect making up her deficiencies in
+cash when a hint has been given them of the necessity.</p>
+
+<p><em>May 2nd.</em>—Lord Wellington, I hear is to go to-day to
+General Cole’s division, the fourth, near the Figuiera,
+above Castello Rodrigo, and near Eschalo. He sends
+his hounds over the six leagues to-day: they hunt there
+to-morrow. On Tuesday he is to review the fourth division,
+and return here to dinner at Frenada afterwards.
+Lord Wellington said, some days since, he would move
+on the 5th of May: some of the army may, and will, I
+have no doubt; but I do not think <em>we</em> shall before the
+10th. Ho one knows, however; and I dare say no one
+will know until the day before, when all will be in a
+bustle. I hope we shall not set out in this weather,
+however, which continues constant cold, rain, and wind.
+By watching sharp, I can generally get an hour’s ride
+dry; but it will be rather dismal work to start on a long
+march in this wet, and it would, from the state of the
+roads, knock up the mules too much at first, when I take
+it they will have far enough to go.</p>
+
+<p>If the news from Austria be true, and General Murray
+has really beaten Suchet in an English and not merely
+in a Spanish fashion, the French, when they hear we
+have crossed the Douro, will probably go at once behind
+the Ebro, carrying all they can with them that is moveable
+and worth carriage. At present, however, their
+plan seems to be, to try to make a stand on the Douro
+first. They are evidently receding gradually from Madrid.</p>
+
+<p><em>Later.</em>—I have just heard that part of my gossip of
+head-quarters is not correct. Lord Wellington has got
+a cold, and has determined not to go to General Cole to-day,
+though the weather has now cleared up.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</span></p>
+
+<p><em>May 3rd, Monday.</em>—Lord Wellington is rather worse
+to-day, I hear, and does not leave Frenada. I hope his
+review will be quite put off. He has, I believe, only a
+bad cold. We have still no further news from Alicant:
+at Cadiz they had only seen the same account that we
+have. Mr. Wellesley says that the people were in high
+spirits about it there, though I suspect that some of the
+Spaniards did not behave well. The allied loss is reported
+to be nine hundred, that of the French at two thousand.
+If we could kill off at this rate, and make the Spaniards
+bear a fair share, this would do very well. I have since
+heard from Colonel C—— that it is supposed Elio’s
+troops behaved ill, and threw away their arms. Elio’s
+corps had received orders not to fight, but to unite with
+General Murray: he was just about to do so, and part of
+his corps was on his left, but too far distant, and gave
+way when attacked. The orders were, for all the corps,
+Elio’s, Del Parque’s, &amp;c., to unite with General Murray
+without a battle. General Murray will scarcely be able
+to do much (if he has beat Suchet) with his small force,
+if he cannot trust the Spaniards. I hope, however,
+Whittingham’s corps has behaved well.</p>
+
+<p><em>May 4th, Tuesday.</em>—Lord Wellington has just got
+eight of the Prince Regent’s grey stallions up from
+Lisbon to draw his carriage on the march: they are
+small, but showy, little, prancing, round-carcassed animals.
+They have the same mark as is on my black
+horse from Machacha; but mine beats them in beauty.
+To-day they were tried, and not having been for some
+time, or ever, in harness, or not liking the country so
+well as Lisbon, they would not for a long time go at all.
+One reared up and fell backwards twice, clean over, and
+one got astride the pole. They got on better, however,
+at last, and did not break the carriage as I expected.
+Lord Wellington’s six old large mules would do the
+work much better, though they are not so showy for
+Spain.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</span></p>
+
+<p>I saw Lord Wellington to-day, he said he was much
+better; but has apparently a heavy, bad cold.</p>
+
+<p><em>May 5th.</em>—Here we are, still mum, as I expected;
+and the reason for it is now said to be that the pontoons
+are not yet arrived. They left Castello Branco May the
+1st only, and, it is said, cannot reach this place before the
+9th. Monday the 10th is now talked of; I think, however,
+it may be still Thursday next, the day after the
+post-day again, before we stir; most people say, however,
+Tuesday the 11th; much may depend on news. Of
+course, Lord Wellington must be very anxious to know
+the true state of the North of Europe before we start;
+and the present strong south-west gales are much against
+our hearing soon; he also wishes to know the exact effect
+of the fight at Alicant. I dined yesterday at head-quarters,
+and Lord F. Somerset told me that they had
+more irregular accounts of the latter business, and that
+they became less and less satisfactory. It was understood
+that the Spaniards, when first attacked alone, were charged
+and quite cut up by the French—<i lang="es" xml:lang="es">muy mal tratado</i>, is the
+Spanish private account; and one whole regiment, I am
+told, surrendered. Three regiments are considered to be
+<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">mis hors de combat</i>. Our army, it appears, did certainly
+afterwards at last beat back a French partial attack with
+loss; but our vanguard had been beaten back before, and
+the loss in our army, English and Sicilians, without
+Spaniards, was nine hundred. This will not do; still
+it is to be hoped that Whittingham’s people behaved
+better.</p>
+
+<p>Lord Wellington dined at table again yesterday, and
+was much better. I sat next to him on one side and the
+Prince of Orange on the other, as there happened to be
+no other grandees there; and we had much conversation.
+This has happened two or three times lately, when I have
+been there, and there are few besides his own establishment
+present. He always calls the two who are on his
+right and left, and Campbell settles the rest. Lord F.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</span>
+Somerset sent me yesterday a little pamphlet of Lord
+Wellington’s, containing the account of the Russian
+retreat—rather a catchpenny, I think; and, though not
+exceeding the Russian gazettes in the number of French
+prisoners, adding several rather incredible details, such
+as the French crawling into the fires like gnats into a
+candle, without being sensible of their danger, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>The French, who had quitted Toledo altogether, have
+again advanced, and occupied it with much the same
+force as before, to the great discomfiture of the junta
+there, who thought the “<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Esclaves</i>” (as they call them in
+the account of the Alicant battle) were gone for good and
+for ever. To-day Lord Wellington keeps the anniversary
+of the battle of Fuentes d’Onore, and all present at that
+battle are to dine with him.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th (Later).</em>—Since writing the above, I have received
+a case of a deserter from the Isla de Leon. Two years
+since he deserted to the French, and persuaded others to
+go with him. As no time is now to be lost, I have
+drawn the charge and sent the whole off to Lamego for
+trial directly. My only Court which has as yet moved,
+or had orders to move, is that at Coimbra, who are
+cavalry, and are now at Oporto. I have sent Mr. Commissary
+D——, from Coimbra, there to be tried, for a
+breach of orders; and a number of witnesses are all gone
+with him on both sides to Oporto: I only hope they may
+not, by any sudden order, have all their march for
+nothing. We have now, since Christmas, tried eighty
+cases, and there are still ten in hand, besides about
+thirty which have come to nothing.</p>
+<br>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_3" href="#FNanchor_3" class="label">[3]</a> If the letters of Vetus were written, as was supposed, by Lord
+Wellesley, it is quite clear that Lord Wellington was ignorant of the
+fact.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+</div>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</span></p>
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="fs80" style="margin-left: 2em; text-indent: -2em;">Newspaper Complaints—Wellington’s Comments—Review of the Portuguese—Gatherings
+at Head-quarters—Reviews—Recommencement of
+the March—The Route.</p>
+
+<p class="right fs80">
+Head-quarters, Frenada,<br>
+<span style="padding-right: 2em">May 8, 1813.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p class="no-indent">
+<span class="smcap">My dear M——</span>,
+</p>
+
+<p><span style="padding-left: 2em">I</span> have first to thank you for your letter and
+paper of the 21st, which was most acceptable, as it happened
+to be, once more, the only paper of that date at
+head-quarters, and of course the only one which had the
+accounts from the French papers of Bonaparte’s having
+left Paris, and of the state of their armies, &amp;c. Finding
+this to be the case I hastened to read it, and laid it, with
+three Courts-martial, before Lord Wellington; more particularly,
+among other things, pointing out to him a
+malicious letter against him, from Lisbon, stating the
+discontent of the cavalry officers at having their horses
+turned over to the Germans, and at its being done by a
+German officer, &amp;c., and the disgrace at being sent home
+dismounted. He read it through, and at every sentence
+of that part relating to the general state of the cavalry,
+he went on, with a laugh, “a lie!”—“a lie!”—“a lie!”
+except as to Lieutenant-colonel Sherlock’s being vexed at
+the regiment being sent home. “That’s very true—all
+the rest is a lie!”</p>
+
+<p>I think we are still likely to be here for some days.
+The pontoons are only expected to arrive in this neighbourhood
+to-morrow, and I have then heard it whispered
+that we shall not stir until they are on the banks of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</span>
+river, or indeed till they are fixed ready. The brigade of
+heavy artillery, namely, six eighteen-pounders, were encamped
+about two miles from hence on Thursday, and I
+went over to see them. The difficulty of transport may
+be conceived when I tell you that there were above a
+hundred and sixty of the strongest oxen employed in
+getting these six pieces, with the appurtenances, along
+the road, besides spare animals.</p>
+
+<p>The next day the whole proceeded to Almeyda; this,
+and what I hear about the pontoons, makes me conceive
+that a part of the army at least will cross the Douro
+immediately, somewhere in the vicinity of Eschalona; but
+of course I can only conjecture, and am very much in the
+dark on the subject. The troops still remain at Lamego,
+Vizeu, Cea, Coria, Maimento, &amp;c.; the cavalry only round
+by Oporto, and some of General Hill’s, have moved yet.
+The Hussar brigade are now all up near us, and the
+Household troops all in the road on this and the other
+side of Sabugal. Some of the Blues have been here; they
+are in fine order. I saw some horses as fat as in England;
+I hear, however, a much worse account of the Life-Guard
+horses. Colonel H., of the Blues, says that he does
+not see why his horses should not continue to be in as
+good condition as they are now, and look as well through
+the campaign; the other soldiers here, however, say,
+“Wait for a little duty and starvation, and then talk;
+you have done nothing but come up in the best time of
+the year, in the grass season.”</p>
+
+<p>I dined yesterday at head-quarters, to meet General
+Graham. He is a very fine old man, but does not indeed
+look quite fit for this country work; every one seems to
+think and say the same, and also that he is broken since
+he was here. It is really to be regretted that such a fine
+old man should be exposed as he must be. General
+Picton was also there, and seemed in full vigour. All
+the great guns come here to pay their respects to head-quarters.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</span>
+Lord Wellington is quite well again; was out
+hunting on Thursday, and, being kept in by rain all
+yesterday, is making up for it to-day by persisting in his
+expedition to the fourth division. He was to set out
+at seven this morning for the review of General Cole’s
+division, on a plain beyond Castel Rodrigues, about
+twenty-eight miles from hence, was to be on the ground
+about ten, and was to return to dinner to-day by four or
+five o’clock. This is something like vigour, and yet I
+think he overdoes it a little; he has, however, a notion
+that it is exercise which makes head-quarters more healthy
+than the rest of the army generally is, and that the
+hounds are one great cause of this.</p>
+
+<p><em>Monday, May 10th.</em>—The weather is, since yesterday,
+clearing up again, and is just now perfection—a mild sun,
+moist ground, and fine, genial, south-west wind: it will
+soon turn now to heat. I inquire daily about the
+pontoons, upon which our movement depends, and have
+now ascertained that they only left Castello Branco three
+days since, and that a commissariat clerk went yesterday
+to meet them with fresh animals at Sabugal. They
+cannot be here, it is clear, before the 13th and 14th, and
+so says General Picton, who passed the men on the road.
+If they are then to move on to be fixed, we cannot well
+stir before the 16th or 17th, and that seems the general
+opinion here now, though Lord Wellington appears to be
+impatient about it.</p>
+
+<p>I have now to tell you of a piece of gaiety of mine
+yesterday. I went to leave a Court-martial with Lord
+Wellington about twelve o’clock; saw him, and found
+that he was at two o’clock to set out for another review
+of the Spanish cavalry of the Conde de Penne Villemur,
+who have often been mentioned, and were of use in General
+Hill’s surprise, &amp;c. I had much curiosity to see these
+gentlemen, and finding, after calling upon the Adjutant-general,
+that I had only one summons to send out, I<span class="pagenum" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</span>
+agreed with Lord Aylmer to go with him to this review,
+ran home, wrote, sent off my summons, dressed, &amp;c., got
+my black horse equipped in his best also, and at one we
+set off for Huero, near which the cavalry were ordered to
+assemble, on the Agueda. It was about twelve or thirteen
+miles distant, and we got there, riding gently, soon
+after three, having gone about two miles round, under
+the guidance of Colonel B——, close to the Quinta de
+Agueda, a pretty farm and gentleman’s house (so esteemed
+here), in a wild, park-like scene in the wood. I knew the
+road well, for it was nearly my way to Guinaldo, but I
+had no objection to see this Quinta, so took merit for my
+modesty, but only undertook to be guide home. The
+meadows were quite green, the woods all coming out in
+leaf, and the thorn in blossom.</p>
+
+<p>At about a mile from this place we fell in with Lord
+Wellington and his aides-de-camp, who had got over, in
+about an hour and twenty minutes, by my road. The
+party then consisted of Lord Wellington, Lord F.
+Somerset, Colonel C. Campbell, the Prince of Orange, his
+aide-de-camp, Lord Aylmer, Colonel B——, and myself;
+and I assure you the black went neighing about in high
+spirits, looking very sleek and respectable. On the
+ground we were met by the Spanish generals O’Donnell
+and O’Lalor, and found the cavalry drawn up in front of
+the river in open order, about seven hundred in all. The
+first and best regiment was that of Algarve, the second
+was that of Estremadura, and then came on the left a
+single squadron of partizans, to be the regiment de
+Gallicia. The two first regiments were tolerably clothed,
+and some of the men fine-looking fellows, all very fierce
+in appearance, with their dark faces and black beards, &amp;c.
+The arms, though not uniform, good enough; the greater
+part with our cavalry broadsword and carbine, but many
+with our sailors’ long straight boarding-sword, and no
+bad weapon either—I should think the best of the two.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</span>
+The helmets—black and steel, or rather bright iron—were
+serviceable, and seemed to have seen no little
+service; many, however, were black and brass, belonging
+to other regiments, of Saguntum, &amp;c.; the belts generally
+white, at least those of the Algarve regiment, many black
+in the other. The horses, in general, very small, and
+some scarcely fit for duty, but for the most part apparently
+well fed, and in very-fair condition; out of the two
+one very tolerable set might have been chosen, as good, I
+understand, as many French regiments have been when
+here.</p>
+
+<p>The left squadron of Portuguese were queer-looking
+gentlemen, in dirty brown, blue, and green jackets of all
+hues and ages; one fellow among them was quite a
+monster in size, and excited much notice. Lord Wellington
+quite burst out into a laugh as he passed. After
+his lordship and his suite had passed in front and in the
+rear of the whole, as in England, they passed him in
+troops and saluted. The officers then appeared the
+worst—they were awkward louts; some did not salute
+at all, some in a most clumsy manner; but perhaps this
+was not a custom with them, as they had inquired what
+was usual with us. They were, many of them, however,
+round-shouldered, dirty, ill-looking men. Lord
+Wellington desired them to form once into close column,
+and then to deploy again, and as there was more room
+across the river, desired it might be done there. We galloped
+across, and then the scene of the cavalry passing
+the ford was very picturesque, as the day was very fine
+and the mountains and country in great beauty. This
+was between Huero and Castilegos. They manœuvred
+thus much very tolerably, that is, the regiment, for the
+squad of partizans remained behind practising the broadsword.
+The ground on which the regiments were reviewed
+was quite a bog.</p>
+
+<p>About five o’clock off went Lord Wellington in a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</span>
+gallop across the country home to dinner. We all followed
+close for about a league, and then, to save our animals,
+not having fifteen as he has, Lord F. Somerset, Lord
+Aylmer, General Oswald, and myself went quietly on,
+and got here about a quarter after seven, I for one much
+pleased with my trip. The Conde P. Villemur did not
+command, and, as I understand, has retired in disgust
+altogether, because there is a commander-in-chief appointed
+in the cavalry, and he wished to be appointed if
+there was to be one, or at least not to have any one over
+him. He was always, it is said, a person who had a will
+of his own, and did not like to obey orders. These jealousies
+and quarrels are much to be regretted. The
+officer who commanded was Monte Major. His aide-de-camp
+told me that a number of their men were on
+duty, and that their real numbers were above one thousand.</p>
+
+<p>The review of the fourth division was, I believe, much
+more satisfactory to Lord Wellington, as everything was
+in high order—Portuguese and all, about six thousand
+five hundred; but having so often seen a good English
+review, I was much more gratified with these Spanish
+gentlemen. The Life-Guards, &amp;c., are to be inspected
+to-morrow.</p>
+
+<p>The messenger who was sent off on the 17th to Alicant
+has returned to-day, and has been round by Cadiz
+in his return. He makes our loss less—only about three
+hundred, I hear from the official statement—and that of
+the French greater: and I was very glad to hear that
+Whittingham’s men had behaved well, and that General
+Murray was well satisfied with them. The messenger
+rode from Cadiz here in three days.</p>
+
+<p>We have here to-day all the grandees—Marshal Beresford,
+General Alava, Don Julian, General Graham; the
+latter has been to the review above sixteen miles distant,
+to see the Household Brigade. They mustered eight<span class="pagenum" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</span>
+hundred and twenty-nine rank and file in the field, that
+is, Blues and Life-Guards together, and seven hundred
+and fifty-one horses, and performed very well. The
+horses of the Blues much the best, some of the Life-Guards’
+rather skeletonish. I still fear General Graham
+is too old for this work; at least he must not act as he did
+at Barossa. Before the battle, I am told, he stood up to
+his middle in the water for an hour or more, encouraging
+the troops to get on, English and Spanish; and jumped
+off his horse on purpose for the example. It is added,
+some of the men said, “Come, old corporal, do go and
+take care of yourself, and get out of our way.”</p>
+
+<p>Lord Wellington was to-day in his full Colonel’s dress
+uniform of the Blues, and looked very well in it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Wednesday, 12th, Post-day. Head-Quarters, Frenada.</em>—Still
+here, and very probably we shall be so for some
+days. There are symptoms, however, of a move soon,
+such as the packing of Lord Wellington’s claret, &amp;c.
+The pontoons are expected the day after to-morrow.
+The twenty-four-pounders are on their march through
+Gallicia from Corunna. The eighteen-pounders have
+passed on by Almeyda from hence. The cavalry near
+the coast, whom I caught for a Court-martial at Oporto
+sending every witness from Coimbra, have now in part, I
+understand, passed Braga. I sent a case yesterday to
+Lamego, but fear it will be too late, and must be tried
+on the march: there are so many little delays, however,
+that I may yet be in time. The difficulties now increase.
+Lord Wellington and Colonel F—— of the artillery do
+not agree. Lord Wellington complains much of the
+heads of that department. He sent B—— home some
+time since, and I now hear F—— is to go to England,
+and for the present at least Lieut.-colonel D—— is to
+have the command. F—— is much of a gentleman, I
+think; draws, it is said, very well, &amp;c., but has a bad
+memory, is nervous, and raises difficulties, which I suspect<span class="pagenum" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</span>
+Lord Wellington does not encourage, but expects
+things to be done if possible. I am now told that
+General Pakenham is to act as Adjutant-general to the
+army, and supersede Lord Aylmer, the deputy Adjutant-general,
+but who has acted hitherto as principal. Every
+one speaks most highly of Pakenham.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Frenada, May 15th, 1813. Saturday.</em>—The
+first division of the Guards and Germans left
+Vizeu for Lamego three days since. The fifth division
+have left Lamego, and are marching through the Tras os
+Montes. The seventh division have left Maimento, I
+believe, on the same route. The sixth have also left Cea.</p>
+
+<p>When the French, who are still at Salamanca, Arevalo,
+Avila, Madrid, &amp;c., hear that we have thus crossed the
+Douro and turned their position, they must either assemble
+and give battle, which I think they will not do, or they
+must at once go beyond the Ebro, and then I suppose we
+shall attack Burgos, and cross after them. However it
+be, I expect a good long march in the outset. The
+army, however, on the whole, is in good condition, and
+never has had so long a repose, or been so regularly
+clothed. The sick are reduced to nearly seven thousand,
+and will probably be never much less. A very bad report
+has been made of the pontoons: they changed the oxen
+for horses, and these treated them roughly. The day
+before yesterday so bad a report was made of them, that
+yesterday, when they reached Sabugal, off went Lord
+Wellington about twenty-six miles to look at them with
+his own eyes. I hear he is glad to know the worst,
+but that is bad. They are made too slight, were old and
+had new bottoms made for them, but now the sides are
+very much shaken and decayed. Exaggerated reports
+have reached us that the tin covering is knocked in
+holes, and that the wood of the sides may be pinched out
+by the touch in some places. Lord Wellington may now,
+however, act accordingly, knowing the worst. They will<span class="pagenum" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</span>
+not pass this way, it is said, but across by Galegos, a
+different road from that taken by the heavy guns, the
+eighteen-pounders. I now think, therefore, that the
+heavy guns will cross towards Lamego by the bridge, and
+that the pontoons will be fixed, if at all, further north up
+the river. We shall probably cross at Zamora, but cannot
+tell: it is said the bridge is not destroyed there.</p>
+
+<p>On Monday Lord Wellington will review the light
+division in our front under General Anson—the 43rd,
+52nd, 95th, and the Caçadores Portuguese,—a very fine
+body of men. To-morrow he is to fix his tent in the
+Praga of Frenada, and will give a dinner to Marshal
+Beresford, the 16th being the anniversary of the battle of
+Albuera. To this I am asked, though not a military man,
+and certainly not present on that fortunate occasion. The
+town is so full that some encamp; and Captain M——,
+who is just arrived here, sleeps and dresses in the ante-room
+of the Adjutant-general’s office, where the printing-press
+is all day at work, and leaves him a fine perfume of
+printing-ink at night, besides the full smell from the
+stables below, through the open floor, which he enjoys
+almost as much as I do myself here in my quarters.
+The numbers at head-quarters are so increased that I
+fear we shall find it very difficult to get quarters when
+on the march. We have now Lord William Russell
+and Lord John here, the former on Lord Wellington’s
+staff, the latter, I believe, as an amateur. We have
+also Lord March’s brother in the dragoons, and last,
+but not least, I can assure you, Captain Fitzclarence, an
+immense young man: he is in the Adjutant-general’s
+department.</p>
+
+<p>The first division from Vizeu are, it is said, to be
+at Braganza about the 17th. Great part of the army
+will be there by the 22nd, and by the same day the
+second division, under General Hill, from Coria, will be
+within seven leagues of Salamanca; yet the 52nd, who<span class="pagenum" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</span>
+to-day are at Nava da Ver in order to attend the review
+of the light division at Espeja, are to return to
+Guinaldo.</p>
+
+<p>I have just fallen in with a dozen of the Life Guards,
+with their brass helmets, &amp;c. I think before they have
+lived to October they will have a very philosophical idea
+of a vacuum—one pound of bony, lean beef will occupy
+but a little of their long stomachs. I suspect our
+good allies, the Spaniards, will think that we have sent
+them a regiment of Don Quixotes, and the horses from
+present appearances may in a little time make no bad
+Rosinantes. Five or six of these tall, six feet high men
+were mounted on mules going to Almedia, to get iron; I
+pitied them to-day as they were bargaining for a bit of
+dear cheese and some dried chestnuts in the market.
+They have some spirit, however, and will not enter the
+staff mounted corps, a new thing, considering it to be a
+sort of police, and declaring that they would rather be
+police at home as before than here, if they are to be police
+at all. This corps of staff horse is to be two hundred,
+and to be composed of volunteers from all regiments.
+Officers do not hitherto take to it, but very good-looking
+men have volunteered in general; none from the hussars,
+I hear.</p>
+
+<p><em>Monday Evening, 17th.</em>—The dinner yesterday went
+off famously, very well managed in the tent, and very
+comfortable. Lord Wellington was supported by Marshal
+Beresford and General Sir Lowry Cole on one side, and
+by General Castanos and Sir T. Graham on the other;
+and then all the staff of the three Generals, Wimpfen,
+O’Lalor, Alava, &amp;c., with the aides-de-camp; the Portuguese
+Quarter-Master-general, and other staff, Lord
+Aylmer, Lord F. Somerset, Marquis of Worcester, Lord
+March, and all the heads of departments. Almost all
+were with stars, medals, Portuguese orders, or something
+distinguishing. If I were in the American General<span class="pagenum" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</span>
+Harrison’s army, perhaps I might get an honourable
+mention, like his good friend Charles Walker, the Judge
+Advocate-general, who was of such use in the corps of
+spies. Then we had Mr. Joe Kelly, of the Life Guards
+a famous singer, whom I recognised as having heard at
+Shrewsbury races, and he gave us some good songs; and
+we “hip! hip! hipped!” &amp;c., to the grandees. I was
+much entertained at the etiquette observed between the
+Marshal and General Castanos, who should go into the
+tent first: at last they went in side by side, as other great
+men have before determined that knotty point. Castanos
+seems very easy and good-humoured, and willing to give
+way, and even to have a little fun, but he is very old.
+All the fashionables were at the review this morning near
+Espeja, and a very fine sight it was. Between five and
+six thousand of the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">élite</i> of ours, and of the Portuguese
+troops; the line near three-quarters of a mile long, two
+deep, and they marched in line near half a mile over
+rough and smooth, and then changed their front three
+times, and at last passed in review admirably. The
+German hussars, commanded by Colonel Arentsfchild,
+were on the right, in excellent style, and beyond them a
+brigade of artillery: the day was beautiful, and the scene
+upon the whole very striking. Lord Wellington is indefatigable.
+He goes six leagues to-morrow another way
+to Friexada, to review the English hussars, the 10th, &amp;c.
+He looks, I think, a little fagged and anxious.</p>
+
+<p><em>Guinaldo, May 18th.</em>—On my arrival here at eleven
+o’clock to attend the Court-martial, I found the President,
+General Vandeleur, had stayed with Lord Wellington to
+go over to the review, and had sent an order for the
+Court to assemble to-morrow, the 19th, instead of to-day,
+of which he had forgotten to give me any notice. If we
+march on Thursday I shall be at my wit’s end, and it is
+so provoking to lose a whole day thus, just at such a
+moment. He is so hospitable, civil, and good-humoured,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</span>
+that, though very much inconvenienced, I cannot be
+angry.</p>
+
+<p>The fourth division march from Escuao to-day. The
+light will, I suppose, move with us. The second division
+are now moving along the Sierras de Francia, the mountains
+in sight of us here. This air must be aguish; five
+of the officers and a great number of the men of the
+52nd, though such fine-looking fellows, are attacked by
+the ague when doing no work, and in fine weather. At
+Frenada most of the sickness was among the natives.</p>
+
+<p>Lord Wellington, at the review yesterday, was on one
+of his new purchases from General L. C. Stewart. He
+gave four hundred guineas for the two, and for this two
+hundred and fifty—a gentleman who has gained some
+plates in England, and has a name. It is a very pretty
+animal, but is as troublesome in regard to neighing as my
+black. They were answering each other all the morning.
+Indeed this neighing gives quite a character to a Spanish
+review—it is heard more than the trumpets. I met in
+my way here about twenty Spanish grenadiers, who, I
+understand, were part of a treasure escort. They were
+very fine men, and were well clothed. Individually they
+greatly surpass the Portuguese in appearance: tall,
+straight, well-limbed, and with good young countenances.
+As to their discipline, or how they will stand, I cannot
+say; but such men can only want good officers to do
+anything. In the review yesterday, besides the two
+regiments of Caçadores Portuguese, there was the 17th
+of the line Portuguese: they really marched and went
+through the evolutions very nearly as well as our own
+men. The men, however, are naturally mean, shabby
+men in general, like the pictures of the Queen’s family at
+Frogmore, which you must remember. The officers look
+much better than those of the Spaniards, and seem most
+of them to know more of their duty. The Spanish men,
+as men, independent of discipline, are wonderfully superior<span class="pagenum" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</span>
+to the Portuguese; and yet we have seen, from want
+of that knowledge of acting in a mass, and total mistrust
+of their leaders, how inferior they have hitherto been.</p>
+
+<p>The Portuguese people, though they do not talk so
+well as the Spaniards, or look so well, have shown much
+more practical spirit. When the French passed through
+the Spanish towns or villages, the alcalde went to meet
+them, the people remained quiet, submitted to the exactions,
+and the French in general treated them tolerably
+well in consequence, for they thus got food and forage.
+In the Portuguese villages, on the contrary, when the
+French last entered Portugal, almost every inhabitant
+sacrificed his house and property, and fled, according to
+orders; and thus it was that the French were so plagued
+and puzzled for food, and provoked to destroy the houses
+as they did.</p>
+
+<p><em>May 19th, Six o’clock, evening, Head-Quarters, Frenada.</em>—Just
+returned from Guinaldo in time for the post. My
+Court met at twelve. We tried the man by one o’clock.
+I wrote the proceedings fair, got them signed, and here I
+am, very hungry, and find that every one has dined, for
+Lord Wellington began to-day to dine at three o’clock,
+instead of eight. We do not march to-morrow, perhaps
+not till Saturday.</p>
+
+<p><em>Frenada, May 21st, 1813, Friday.</em>—At last, to-morrow
+morning we all break up for the march. I go, as a civil
+department, by the route enclosed; I shall, therefore, see
+nothing of the greater part of head-quarters for a fortnight.
+Dr. M’Gregor goes my way; but who else I
+know not. Indeed Dr. M’Gregor wishes to go to Oporto,
+and perhaps I may have the whole road nearly to myself.
+I am told that the road is pleasant; at least it is new all
+beyond Almeida. The light division is to march to-day.
+The second are not far from Tamames by this time.
+Tamames is, I believe, the military head-quarters on the
+second day’s march, the 23rd. The fourth division<span class="pagenum" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</span>
+passed the Douro, I believe, yesterday; the others have
+already done so, and in two or three days the main body
+of the army will be at Braganza, Outeiro, and Miranda de
+Duero; and the light and second divisions and head-quarters
+on this side of the Douro.</p>
+
+<p>Some of Hamilton’s Portuguese in the second division
+are so ill supplied, that Lord Wellington has, it is said,
+threatened the Marshal to send them in the rear if they
+be not better clothed and fed. He says he would rather
+be without two or three battalions, than have them in
+such a state as these are. Indeed, he seems either not
+quite to trust the Portuguese, or they cannot be supplied;
+for he leaves a full battalion, I hear, at Abrantes, and one
+or two elsewhere, saying he has Portuguese enough in
+proportion. He seems in good spirits, but looks worn
+and anxious. The pontoons have crossed the Douro, so
+now I do not know where they are to be laid down,
+unless to let the second and light divisions and head-quarters
+pass over, whenever necessary, or to bring over
+the others, if the French should collect.</p>
+
+<p>The French have hitherto always judged of the situation
+of the main body of the army by that of head-quarters:
+they were thus twice taken in last year.
+Before the siege of Badajoz, Lord Wellington had moved
+away nearly the whole of the army before he stirred, and
+the whole of the head-quarters were not protected against
+two thousand men. This deceived the French then, and
+I hope will now, but they are on the alert; at Salamanca
+constantly on the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">qui vive</i>, and ready for a run, &amp;c. The
+Commissary here has already trusted a man with money
+to go and collect forage, &amp;c., at Salamanca, before the
+French are gone. Everything is now alive. General
+Graham, I believe, commands at Miranda de Duero, or
+at least will very soon. General Picton has the ague,
+and is too ill to take the command of this division yet,
+but remains with it. I thought him looking very well;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</span>
+but there is something in this climate which does not
+suit the English at all, even when quiet and living well.
+The natives have their annual ague fit, and seem to think
+it a part of their existence: they are rather unhappy
+when it does not come as usual. Lord Wellington’s cars
+with the heavy baggage are off.</p>
+
+<p><em>Frenada, May 20th, 1813.</em>—Route for the head-quarters
+of the army.</p>
+
+<p>The military department will move on the 22nd instant
+to Ciudad Rodrigo.</p>
+<br>
+
+<p class="center no-indent">
+<em>The Civil Department.</em></p>
+
+<table class="autotable">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc">May</td>
+<td class="tdlx">22nd.</td>
+<td class="tdlx">Almeida.</td>
+<td class="tdlx">Depôt of provisions.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc">”</td>
+<td class="tdlx">23rd.</td>
+<td class="tdlx">Pinhel.</td>
+<td class="tdl"></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc">”</td>
+<td class="tdlx">24th.</td>
+<td class="tdlx">Cotimos.</td>
+<td class="tdl"></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc">”</td>
+<td class="tdlx">25th.</td>
+<td class="tdlx">Villa Nova de Foscoa.</td>
+<td class="tdl"></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc">”</td>
+<td class="tdlx">26th.</td>
+<td class="tdlx">Torre de Moncorvo.</td>
+<td class="tdlx">Depôt of provisions.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc">”</td>
+<td class="tdlx">27th.</td>
+<td class="tdlx">Halt.</td>
+<td class="tdl"></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc">”</td>
+<td class="tdlx">28th.</td>
+<td class="tdlx">Tornas and Lagouça.</td>
+<td class="tdl"></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc">”</td>
+<td class="tdlx">29th.</td>
+<td class="tdlx">Villa Dalla.</td>
+<td class="tdl"></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc">”</td>
+<td class="tdlx">30th.</td>
+<td class="tdlx">Sendim.</td>
+<td class="tdl"></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc">”</td>
+<td class="tdlx">31st.</td>
+<td class="tdlx">Miranda de Duero.</td>
+<td class="tdlx">Depôt, &amp;c.</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="right"><span class="smcap">G. Murray</span>, Q. M. G.</p>
+
+<p class="no-indent fs80">
+<em>To the Commandant of<br>
+<span style="padding-left: 4em">Head-Quarters.</span></em><br>
+</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="fs80" style="margin-left: 2em; text-indent: -2em;">The March commenced—Scenes on the Road—Villa Dalla—Toro—Castro
+Monte—Palencia—Prospects of a General Action—Skirmishing—Massa.</p>
+
+<p class="right fs80">
+<span style="padding-right: 2em">Head-quarters, Civil Department,</span><br>
+Torre de Moncorvo, May 27, 1813.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="no-indent">
+<span class="smcap">My dear M——</span>,
+</p>
+
+<p><span style="padding-left: 2em">We</span> here halt a-day; on the 22nd, about twelve, I
+arrived at Almeida—that heap of ruins—and turned out,
+by the authority of the Governor, two Portuguese officers,
+to get one miserable room as my quarters. Colonel Le
+Mesurier, the late governor, was too ambitious a man to
+remain inactive, shut up in Almeida during a campaign.
+He therefore applied for a brigade in the Portuguese service,
+and, though he could not obtain it, gave up his
+government to command a regiment. I met him at the
+gate on his way to Miranda de Duero to join his division.
+The new Portuguese governor was just moving, but as he
+had not yet got into the present government-house he
+gave us up all the great stable, which was very good, and
+he was in every respect very civil and willing to do the
+most for us. In my way here we had no particular
+adventures. By the aid of the Spaniard in loading we
+have much less trouble, and I have always ridden on, and
+got a quarter before the baggage arrived. My only companions
+were the Paymaster-general, Hunter, and Mr.
+Whitter, and nine other clerks with him, and the military
+chest, &amp;c., and two or three commissariat parties. The
+weather has been uniformly fine, and at times very hot.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</span>
+We have daily been roused at five o’clock, and off at six,
+but have nevertheless suffered from the heat, at times
+very much, before we arrived at our station.</p>
+
+<p>On the 23rd we left Almeida and descended to the Coa
+and passed it by a very picturesque bridge, rendered more
+so from one stone arch having been blown up, and
+repaired with wood in a rough style. After a mile of
+steep ascent, we reached a lofty, rough, level common, in
+a wild, uncultivated country, like Dartmoor; with the
+Sierra d’Estrella on one side, still partly tipped with snow,
+and the ridge of hills and Castello Rodrigo on the other.
+We passed Valverde,—a complete ruin now—a village
+without one roof remaining! I was sorry to hear that
+we had begun the destruction of it, and that the Portuguese
+soldiers afterwards left very little remaining for the
+French to do. The next village, Periero, was pleasingly
+situated, and we then soon got down by a river, and
+observed Pinhel with its old Moorish tower, fort, and
+walls, and a bishop’s palace, and a convent adjoining, a
+league before us, on the brow of a hill. At Pinhel we
+were all fixed by the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Juez de Fores</i> in the bishop’s palace,
+and had a choice of large empty rooms in this now uninhabited
+but lately handsome house. It was all tight, and
+Mr. Hunter having a table by means of baggage, and
+tubs for seats, we fared very well. The stables are magnificent,
+good ones for thirty horses, and inferior for sixty
+horses more.</p>
+
+<p>At Almeida there was no green forage to be had; we
+bought small bundles of grass at about a shilling each in
+the grass-market for our animals. At Pinhel we however
+got an order for green barley from the Juge, twenty-eight
+pounds each animal for the day, and they all fared so
+luxuriously that my black gentleman was the next day
+very troublesome. In the bishop’s palace at Pinhel, the
+rooms formed a very handsome suite round a square court
+in the centre; the hangings, &amp;c., all removed, but the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</span>
+ceilings ornamented; the rooms well shaped, with a tolerable
+garden adjoining; but the house standing exactly
+like the Castle Inn at Marlborough, by the road side, at
+the end of the town. The water is very bad, a nuisance
+from which we are, it seems, to suffer much throughout
+the summer in Spain. Last year our men were at times
+obliged to hold their noses when they drank. At the
+convent adjoining the palace, which has been much
+damaged but not destroyed, one or two monks still
+remained, and I met one as I wandered over the building.
+He was very civil. The palace is now appropriated as
+barracks for officers or troops as they pass. The bishop
+lives at another, at Santa Euphemie, a league beyond
+Pinhel.</p>
+
+<p>The castle is like all the Moorish castles I have seen
+here, with the square smooth towers of well-cut hard
+stone, as sharp now almost as when first built. In the
+castle lying about are four curious specimens of old
+cannon, two ribbed, made of beaten iron bars and braced
+together; one of them appeared to be hollow at both
+ends, and solid in the middle. The other two a sort of
+mortar, something in the shape of a very old-fashioned,
+clumsy earthenware jug, with a sort of handle to raise and
+fix it for use.</p>
+
+<p>At the convent was a small aqueduct of stone pillars
+across the garden, to conduct a little stream of water to
+the monks’ habitations; the stream was so small in the
+pipe that you could scarcely see it run at all, but it was
+good, and ran constantly all the year, which, as the
+only good water was a mile off in the river, was very
+valuable.</p>
+
+<p>On the 24th, our party, consisting of the ten paymasters,
+three commissaries, and myself, with about
+fifteen dragoons, and thirty or forty horses, and about
+thirty or forty baggage animals, assembled at five in the
+morning in the palace-court and marched onwards.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</span></p>
+
+<p>In less than a league we passed a very pretty village,
+called, I believe, Valbom, and in another short league
+came to Euphemia, another village, with rather a large
+but imperfect house where the bishop resides now; and I
+believe he was there sitting in his shady colonnade. In
+a short time we descended again and crossed the Lamego;
+here we all dismounted, and let the animals graze on the
+banks, whilst we got some bread and cheese. Half a
+league further on we turned up out of our road to
+Cotimos, our destination for the night. It was a bad
+village, but with a few houses formerly good and still
+tight. Mr. Hunter, Mr. Whitter, and I, were in a
+fidalgo’s house, and tolerably comfortable, though there
+was only an old woman there, but we had chairs and
+tables. We made a great cup with the country wine,
+brandy, lemons, &amp;c., and were very well off for a dinner
+by the purchase of a leveret, eggs and bacon, and mutton
+broth.</p>
+
+<p>On the 25th left Cotimos; and about a league beyond
+we came to a much better village, with two or three
+very good houses, of imposing appearance. This was
+directly in our road, and would have been a better division
+of the distance. After another league of excellent
+road we passed Marialva, half a league on our left, a village,
+with another Moorish castle. After another half
+league we came to the entrance of a long winding descent
+of a mile and a half, which brought us into a pretty vale,
+with another Moorish castle on the hill on our left; and
+there we again ate and the animals grazed in the meadows
+near a little stream. Thence we had a league and a half
+of excessively steep hill to ascend until we got on the
+high level where stands Villa Nova de Foscoa; this
+ascent at near one o’clock was tremendously hot work, and
+very difficult for the baggage.</p>
+
+<p>We here began to get into the army train. About
+twenty hospital waggons were encamped on the hill<span class="pagenum" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</span>
+near the town, and two troops of the waggon train; and
+near them were about eighty ox-cars with bales of cloth
+done up in a sort of sacks to fill with straw for hospital
+beds, &amp;c. We here got good quarters and tolerable
+fare.</p>
+
+<p>On the 26th, leaving Villa Nova, we began immediately
+to descend a winding road to the Douro; this was very
+fine, one of the best things I had seen here.</p>
+
+<p>I was off as soon after sunrise as possible to pass the
+ferry before the military chest. I got down to the bank
+and found about eighty cars drawn up to pass with ammunition,
+boards, planks, and beams, for the repair of bridges,
+&amp;c. Two at a time crossed in one boat; and there was
+another for mules, &amp;c. I stopped some Portuguese; and
+having waited an hour for the baggage, who had loitered
+on the road when I left them, we at last got on board
+this platform as close as we could stick.—Mr. Hunter,
+and six other gentlemen, about a dozen servants, seven
+stallions, three mares, and six loaded baggage mules.
+After some kicking and confusion, we landed safely, and
+after a league of ascent arrived at Torre de Moncorvo.
+Both banks of the river were covered on the sides of the
+road with parties of artillery or baggage grazing, &amp;c.;
+some bivouacking, and others in camp. The scene was
+interesting, except that I regretted the obligation of cutting
+so much of the corn for green forage just as it was
+becoming ripe.</p>
+
+<p>Here we found the same scene in all the environs;
+parties picketed and bivouacking, and more artillery
+drivers; quarters very moderate; but shops very decent;
+the town not destroyed, for the French have never been
+here.</p>
+
+<p>The great number of troops which have been quartered
+here on the march has cleared most of the shops, and
+injured many of the buildings; even here we cannot
+buy anything except honey, sugar, bacon, bread, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</span>
+cheese. The convent of Franciscans above the town is
+nearly entire, and has two tolerable pictures—the altarpiece,
+and one in the refectory, by Romano, the monks
+said, and from the style it may be so. There are some
+houses here with the furniture remaining; that of the
+Capitan Mor (the head inhabitant, and a colonel of
+militia) has painted coved ceilings, and apricot-coloured
+silk hangings, with old-fashioned wooden chairs and
+sofas, with bottoms to match the hangings. The church
+also is handsome. The town is surrounded by hills like
+Bath, and yet we ascended to it three miles from the
+Douro. I saw also something like a female to-day, a
+smart, pretty Lisbon miss going to church—quite a
+curiosity; and so, I believe, the inhabitants think. My
+old patrona (or landlady) here came to tell me to look out
+of the window, as “The Lady” was going by.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Civil Department, Villa Dalla, May
+29th, 1813.</em>—On the 27th, the night before I marched
+from Torre de Moncorvo, we had some heavy rain, which
+cooled the air, laid the dust, and made our journey
+onwards much more agreeable.</p>
+
+<p>On the 28th, the road to Lagouça was very rough
+and hilly, and the distance four long leagues. The
+country is fine; the distance very like parts of Somersetshire
+and Devonshire in its general features, but the
+valleys are less rich, and there are some large pine-woods
+on the hills. About half way we passed Carvacies, a
+large village; and at the end of four leagues, Tornas, a
+poor place, where we had the option of stopping, but
+preferred Lagouça. A part of the staff corps were encamped
+near the pine-wood, with several cars and materials
+for bridges. They are, I understand, about to lay
+down a bridge somewhere on the Douro, very near that
+part, as a safe retreat in case of accidents.</p>
+
+<p>At Lagouça I got a tolerable quarter, and bed, at the
+padre’s. House dirty only. I found books which he<span class="pagenum" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</span>
+could not understand, and I believe never looked at.
+There was the ‘Recopilacion of the Spanish Laws,’ a
+book of authority in Spain. He asked me if it was
+mine—the authority I acted from; had I known how to
+carry it I would have bargained with him for it. There
+was also a Horace, Bourdaloue’s Sermons in Spanish,
+and a few other sermons. He gave me some wine, and
+was very civil; and honestly sent after me something
+that I left behind.</p>
+
+<p>Within a mile of Lagouça, but out of the main road,
+you look down on the Douro, which runs down in a
+deep rocky chasm, very fine and wild, with a very picturesque
+convent, which was once Mas Bonito, half way
+down on the Spanish side of the river, and the Spanish
+town of Miesa above. The French had long been at
+these places, and had much injured the convent; but
+had never got over, as there is only one little bark; and
+the brave Portuguese had a sort of battery. The scene
+was very fine.</p>
+
+<p>To-day (the 29th) I started again after breakfast (but
+before six o’clock, being always called at four) for this
+place. The road was in general good, though rather
+hilly and in parts boggy. We passed to the left of
+Brosa; to the right of Majaduero, and near two or three
+other villages. The country is finer, and still more
+approaching Somersetshire. I have here, at Villa Dalla,
+got a decent quarter in a great farm-house, where there
+are five or six beds about my room, which has, however,
+only a door, no window or ceiling. In winter I should
+have been starved; it is now well enough. I got a table
+and chairs, and have bought one small fowl for a dollar,
+and two little chickens, nearly as big as pigeons, all
+bone, for half a dollar. We get eggs, and sometimes
+milk; and though this country has never seen the
+French, the houses do not seem quite in a state of
+English repair. The whole road is covered with marks<span class="pagenum" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</span>
+of the encampments of troops, &amp;c. The back of the village
+Lagouça was just like a drawing of an Otaheite
+village, and not much better, with bad thatch instead of
+tile, the general roof. The villages, however, are numerous,
+and much more populous than in the other parts of
+Portugal I have seen, and rather cleaner, being nearer
+Spain. There was bread from Zamora in the market at
+Lagouça regularly for sale.</p>
+
+<p><em>Miranda de Duero, May 30th.</em>—I came on here to-day
+a very long journey, meaning to have two days’ rest,
+but found Lord Wellington’s head-quarters had passed
+through here this morning; that his lordship left Salamanca
+yesterday, and was to be six leagues off in advance,
+near the Esla, to-day, the 30th. The French
+absolutely ran away, near Salamanca, and a small party
+were taken. Spanish head-quarters here to-day, and all
+in confusion.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Toro, June 3rd, 1813.</em>—A day’s halt
+will enable me to give you a few lines to let you know
+how we go on. The day I sent my last from Miranda
+de Duero (May 30th), I learnt that head-quarters were
+to be that day and the next at Carbajales, near the Esla,
+to superintend one great object of the movement, the
+passage of the Esla, a formidable river in a military
+point of view. Fearing to be left behind, though without
+orders, I determined to march again the next morning
+(31st), at four, six long leagues to Carbajales. I
+tried to find the nearest road, the longest being round
+by Constantia, and, though the best, I did not wish to
+go above a league out of my way. My directions were
+to pass Yal d’Aguia, Aldea Nova, Fonfrio, and Vermilho.
+I got right to near Fonfrio and then, through a
+wrong direction given me by a little miss who sent me
+by mistake for Carvajosa, I found myself two leagues out
+of my way at Pino, and had to cross straight over the
+country for Vermilho. The consequence was that I<span class="pagenum" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</span>
+arrived late and tired at Carbajales, where head-quarters
+still remained, and at last got a very bad quarter there,
+but a good stable, which General Graham had just left.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening of the 30th I went down part of the
+way to see the ferry over the Douro at Miranda. The
+scenery was very fine, and very like that at Lagouça;
+the river very deep and narrow, running violently
+through a chasm of rocks not unlike Chedder cliffs in
+Somersetshire; and the little ferry-boat almost invisible
+from above the road down and up above three miles,
+though the real distance across seems not above a quarter
+of a mile. Lord Wellington and a part of the staff only
+came over there. Heavy baggage, printing-press, &amp;c.,
+were left with the light division near Salamanca.</p>
+
+<p>In my way to Carbajales, the road I kept near the
+Douro towards Aldea Nova was very picturesque, but
+bad. For the rest of the way the road became better,
+but the country was ugly, like Bagshot Heath, only with
+several villages—and the mountains in Gallicia, still
+tipped with snow, on our left, or nearly behind us. The
+morning of the day I got to Carbajales (the 31st), the
+pontoon bridge was placed, and made passable on the
+Esla, in less than three hours. The Hussars passed a
+bad ford of above four feet water and bad bottom early
+in the day to protect this operation, and two divisions of
+the army passed before night and encamped. Lord
+Aylmer, who had forded in the morning to go over and
+look about him, found the bridge ready, and the troops
+passing as he returned. These were the pontoons which
+had travelled up from Lisbon, and had been the cause of
+so much anxiety. About nine of them were used, and
+the river about the width of the Thames at Windsor.
+This being the state of things, the orders were to have
+all head-quarters’ baggage down at the water-side by six,
+and to get them over before the other troops should
+arrive and the guns. As I had got into a quarter with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</span>
+Spaniards, and they were lazy, I had some trouble to get
+mine off, but succeeded at last, and afterwards rode with
+Lord Aylmer.</p>
+
+<p>We soon fell into the train of head-quarters’ baggage,
+the whole of the eighteen-pounders with their ammunition,
+&amp;c., and one hundred and sixty oxen and their
+spare horses; and also the whole of the fourth division
+of the army—a train of three miles length in the whole.
+The scene presented by the winding down the hill to the
+bridge, and the order with which everything was managed,
+and the winding up the opposite bank, was very interesting.
+We passed about eight o’clock, baggage and all,
+and the guns and two more divisions of the army were
+safely over before five o’clock in the evening, with baggage,
+&amp;c. We then had about three more leagues of a
+Bagshot Heath road, sand and pines, until we suddenly
+came in sight of Zamora and the Douro. The latter is
+here about as wide as the Thames at Kew Bridge, rather
+wider—more perhaps as it is at Fulham. It winds along
+a large plain on the south side under the ridge of higher
+ground to the north, on which, boldly and well-placed,
+stands Zamora with its Moorish church.</p>
+
+<p>The town pleased me much. It is nearly the size of
+Salamanca, and having been much less destroyed, is, at
+present quite as good a town: the convents alone have
+suffered and been gutted. Some of the French had not
+left the place until the very morning our troops entered;
+the greater part, however, went off the night before. The
+castle was rather strong, and would, if defended, have
+delayed us two or three days, but the garrison would
+have been sacrificed. It was fitted up very regularly in
+the inside by the French for troops, places appropriated
+for everything, with the names inscribed. There was
+also a large foundling hospital, and a general hospital for
+the poor. In the former were only about ten or twelve
+babies, and about sixteen children, for they had now<span class="pagenum" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</span>
+scarcely any funds. Nearly opposite was the general
+hospital, with much space and good wards, but not above
+six or eight sick, partly from the same reasons, and partly
+because the French had only left the people the use of
+one small ward, and the room of the intendant, and
+occupied the rest with their sick and wounded. They
+had also now in this last retreat carried off all the linen,
+&amp;c., and only left bedsteads and bedding. They had not,
+however, done any wanton mischief in Zamora when they
+left it this time.</p>
+
+<p>The bridge is handsome, but in our retreat last year
+we blew up the centre arch out of about a dozen; it had
+been repaired since with wood. This the French had
+burnt, on the 30th, but by to-day it is repaired and passable.
+The people received us very cordially, scattered
+roses over our heads, cried <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">viva</i>, &amp;c., and hung all their
+counterpanes and the hangings of their rooms out of the
+windows. The lady at my quarters embraced me, and was
+very kind, but—she was old. There was another like
+a plump Englishwoman, to whom I passed on the
+compliment.</p>
+
+<p>The people entertained Lord Wellington and the staff
+with a concert, lemonade, and ices, &amp;c. The former did
+not admire the time lost in singing psalms to him, as he
+said. I met him in the evening, in his Spanish uniform,
+riding down to the bridge to give directions. In the
+morning he was on one side of the pontoon bridge, and
+Marshal Beresford on the other. I almost knocked
+myself up running about to see Zamora, for we were to
+march again next morning. I could not attend a little
+dance given by Lord Wellington in the evening, and
+except for the iced lemonade should have been in a fever.
+A thunder-storm in the evening cooled the air, and a
+good bed made me ready again to march for this place
+(Toro), five long leagues, the next morning, June 2nd.
+The French having left Toro on the 1st of June, it<span class="pagenum" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</span>
+became an object to take possession, and open a communication
+with the light division, and the second from
+Salamanca.</p>
+
+<p>The road was admirable; a flat sandy level, by the
+river nearly all the way, until we came to the ascent on
+which the town of Toro is placed, standing still more
+boldly over the river than Zamora. The only village
+we passed, and that a poor one, was Fresno; but we
+saw several on our left, and across the river in the flat on
+our right.</p>
+
+<p>Toro is very old, surrounded by ruined mud walls, and
+though it covers much ground has not many good houses,
+and is not to be compared to Zamora; there is, however,
+a market, with a little mutton and beef, and vegetables,
+pork, eggs, &amp;c. The Moorish church here is much
+smaller than at Zamora, though that is not very large;
+there are a few tolerable pictures in both. The castle here
+is stronger than the one at Zamora, and appears almost
+new: it stands on the hill above the bridge, and is
+rather formidable. The two centre arches of this bridge
+had been blown up by us, repaired by the French with
+wood, burnt again by them now, and is now being repaired
+again by us.</p>
+
+<p>We passed, two miles from hence, the sixth division
+and the seventh, taking up their encamping ground on a
+fine meadow by the river side, near a small wood. It
+was a very lively scene, the men marching with music,
+and as regular, without any disorder or loiterers, as if
+going to a review; the whole in high order. Yesterday
+evening the light division arrived from a place within
+three leagues of Salamanca, a march of nearly eight
+leagues, and encamped in a meadow near the water side,
+close to the bridge and ford opposite this town: they
+only left six men behind in their march. This morning
+the horse, the baggage, and the artillery, have all come
+over, passing by the ford; and though it is both wide<span class="pagenum" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</span>
+and deep, I believe without accident, except wet baggage.
+The infantry crossed by ladders across the breach in the
+bridge—that is, down one side, then up the other—one
+by one. They encamp at Morales to-day. This was
+also a very interesting and animating scene from the hill,
+which is a humble imitation of Richmond Hill in point
+of beauty.</p>
+
+<p>The Hussars have commenced famously; they brought
+into Zamora an officer of the 16th (French), and about
+thirty prisoners, whom they dashed at, and knocked over
+in fine style, with little loss. The officer came in here
+prisoner on horseback, which offended the Spaniards, who
+were disposed to insult the prisoners, whom they dared
+not fight, and who had been with them now nearly four
+years or more.</p>
+
+<p>Yesterday the Hussars again came up with the 16th
+French cavalry and some others; the latter had only a
+small bridge to pass which would only carry four abreast.
+Two squadrons of the 10th formed and charged; the
+French stood at first well, but were broken, and then
+formed again. The 10th formed, charged again, and
+again broke the French; the latter then still made
+another effort, but at last ran for the bridge. The 10th
+killed a few, and brought about a hundred and ninety
+prisoners in here; no horses were taken. Twelve or
+fifteen men badly wounded were left about two miles off,
+where it happened. Several of those who came in here
+were much cut and wounded, covered with blood, wounds
+neither washed nor dressed; but they were fine-looking
+men; their horses thin, and smaller than ours. Another
+officer was taken, to whom I spoke. He said he had
+advised that they should not remain on this side the
+bridge, but his superior officer ordered otherwise, and
+afterwards ran away when attacked. We lost a Captain,
+who was taken prisoner, and a Lieutenant killed, both of
+the 10th; and about five or six men killed and wounded.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</span>
+The Captain passed some way over the bridge, where the
+French had artillery and infantry in force, and they came
+down and cut him off.</p>
+
+<p>The French had yesterday, I hear, nearly ten thousand
+men about five miles off, and nearly thirty-eight thousand
+or more in the vicinity of Valladolid. This made us halt
+to-day. The second division are still between this and
+Salamanca, but are expected. The whole are now within
+eight leagues of this, I believe; most of the divisions
+very close. The Spaniards are near Benevente: Don
+Julian’s cavalry, between this and Salamanca, have sent
+in about thirty prisoners and two officers here to-day,
+who were marauding, I suppose. The French told the
+people here that they were only moving to make room
+for other troops.</p>
+
+<p>The Portuguese troops are generally in very high
+order, as well as ours, quite as well clothed, and hitherto
+well in health, though they bivouac when ours encamp,
+their Government not furnishing them with tents. Yesterday
+was a pleasant cool day for a long march. I met
+Lord Wellington again last night, walking about in his
+grey great coat alone. We have a hundred pieces of
+field artillery with us, besides the eighteen-pounders.</p>
+
+<p>A French commissariat party were caught in a wine-house
+on the 1st of June; one was brought in prisoner,
+and nine were killed in the house, as they would not
+surrender.</p>
+
+<p>Lord Wellington reviewed the sixth and seventh divisions
+near Morales to-day. They did not perform well,
+and the poor aides-de-camp were galloped all over the
+country in consequence: the Portuguese were stupid.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Castro Monte, June 5th, 1813.</em>—On
+the 3rd, we started for La Mota, three long leagues of
+good road. I was late, for my careless fellows had
+allowed one of the mule-saddles to be stolen in the night,
+and we were a long time getting off in consequence, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</span>
+vainly endeavouring to replace the loss; but upon the
+whole, when I hear of all the sore backs, lost animals,
+&amp;c., around me, I am lucky. I looked at the two hundred
+French cavalry horses which were sold, with a view
+to purchase one, but they were all half-starved, and the
+service having seized upon the best hundred and fifty
+for Government, the remainder, which were sold by
+auction, were most miserable.</p>
+
+<p>The road from Toro was full of animation: it was one
+train of baggage and soldiers the whole way, three
+leagues, as we are now in the midst of the division. La
+Mota is a very good, large farming village, in a productive
+corn country, and the quarters were very good in consequence,
+the inhabitants being comfortable; the French,
+however, who had left it the day before, had carried off
+all the bread and fowls, &amp;c. My landlord, Don Fernando
+Granado, was very gracious to me. Lord Wellington
+was in a large and elegant palace of the Duke of
+Berwick and Alva, and, in order to celebrate the King’s
+birthday, had the band playing, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>At five this morning we marched for this place, three
+long leagues again only. It is a miserable hole; with
+only eighty houses of all sorts, and we require a hundred
+billets. Several are doubled up, several are encamped,
+which, as we have now a thunder-storm and rain, is not
+very agreeable. I have an humble quarter, with mules
+and all close.</p>
+
+<p>We had a hot but cheerful ride to-day, as we were in
+the midst of the march. I first passed the Household
+Brigade; the Blues look very well, the Life Guards fair
+enough; then the third division, then the fourth, the
+seventh; I saw also the light division; five are within a
+league of this. The second crossed the Douro yesterday,
+and are to-day about a league on our right, under
+General Hill. I saw Picton with his, looking tolerably
+well. The French left Madrid the 20th or 28th of May,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</span>
+finally, and have by forced marches joined their army
+near here. The French were off again yesterday from
+Valladolid and Tordesillas, and were to be to-day at
+Duennas; it is thought they may stand at Palencia, or
+near there; I suspect not, however, though we all wish
+they would, and fight whilst our men are in health and
+spirits. I have just heard that their right is at Placencia.</p>
+
+<p>To-morrow we move for Amputia, a good town, it is
+said, five leagues off. On our road to-day, about half
+way, we passed one of the finest convents in Spain—La
+Espina—in ruins; situation good, domain considerable; a
+large building, handsome, as far as it remains, but the
+walls only are standing. Adieu: I shall finish and send
+this off to-morrow.</p>
+
+<p><em>Amputia, 2 o’clock, 6th June.</em>—I arrived here at ten,
+having left Castro Monte at half-past five, and seen my
+baggage off, after breakfast; of course I was up soon
+after three. The road was by a bye-way over the
+common, but tolerably good, and covered with troops
+and baggage the whole way, for the third, fourth, and
+light divisions of infantry, with their baggage and
+artillery, head-quarters, the Household Brigade, and the
+Hussars were all on our route, and passed in their way;
+they are now in this neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p>We passed Villa Alba de Alcor, three leagues further;
+an old ruined village rather, with a castle and walls all
+around, but nothing particular; after that Villa Real,
+a little village, and then here. This is a large old-fashioned
+town, with the houses in the streets projecting,
+and standing on wooden pillars, so as to form covered
+footways, a tolerably large church, and a castle nearly
+perfect, where our police corps and the cavalry are
+quartered. The people are apparently more cordial and
+zealous. I have been over the church, spire and all, and
+castle, and have taken two sketches, for the rain has<span class="pagenum" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</span>
+made it rather cool and pleasant to-day. The country
+round this town onwards, towards Sahagun, Placencia,
+&amp;c., is a dead flat, covered with villages and towns, but
+no trees. Another large castle on a hill, half a league
+off, and on the whole rather striking.</p>
+
+<p>The French left Palencia the day before yesterday, and
+are off again in advance, with a good start. Report
+says they have also left Burgos town, not the castle;
+they are seventy thousand strong, but think us, we hear,
+too much for them, and are consequently retiring to
+strong positions. By very long marches we might
+perhaps press them, and take some prisoners, and part of
+the cattle and provisions they are carrying off; but this
+might put our army out of the high order and condition
+it is now in, and Lord Wellington does not seem to
+think this worth while for such an object. So the
+Hussars and Household are both kept quiet in this
+neighbourhood, and not sent in pursuit; indeed they
+could do little without strong support.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Amusea, June 9th, 1813.</em>—Another
+halt to-day enables me to proceed with my journal.
+The night I sent my last from Amputia, our orders were
+to have all the baggage ready to start, at the end of the
+town, by five o’clock on the following morning; and that
+I should fall in, and proceed on the road towards Palencia,
+in the rear of the column of the third division, but at
+the head of the baggage of all the light, third, and
+fourth divisions. This was because the French had
+shown twelve squadrons of cavalry at Palencia; and
+Colonel Waters who went on there that day, could not
+enter, so that it was not certain that it should be safe to
+give out in orders, “head-quarters, Palencia.” The
+cavalry had marched early; and as they entered one end
+of Palencia at about six in the morning, the last of the
+French were off at the other.</p>
+
+<p>I passed the third and fourth divisions, went through<span class="pagenum" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</span>
+Paradilla, and entered Palencia with the light division.
+On getting my billet, I wandered about to see all that
+was to be seen before my baggage came. The city is
+old and curious, in size much about the same as Zamora.
+Lord Wellington passed us on the road soon after six,
+and went on through Palencia, some way, to reconnoitre.</p>
+
+<p>We passed through a good open corn country until
+about a league beyond Paradilla, and then descended a
+long hill, with a deep clay soil, into the green and rich
+valley in which Palencia stands. The city appears to
+great advantage surrounded with meadows, and some
+trees, but mostly young ones. The Carrion is a respectable
+river, and we passed the canal near it, about half a
+mile from the city, where a very considerable paper
+manufactory remains unfinished; and the French having
+taken down windows, mill-wheels, &amp;c., for firing and
+shelter in their huts for their bivouacs there the day
+before, the work will, I take it, be for some time interrupted.</p>
+
+<p>The bridges into Palencia were handsome and entire.
+The streets are rather narrow, and the main one, the
+“Calle Mayor,” about a good half-mile long, contains
+about three hundred houses, all old-fashioned, and standing
+upon stone tall pillars over the footway, on each
+side, with the shops under, like Covent Garden. The
+houses are in the old style, like Exeter, or Chester, and
+Geneva; the streets badly paved, with a most offensive
+gutter in the middle; the whole dirty. The bishop’s
+palace is a large, plain, neat stone edifice, quite modern,
+of 1799, being built round a square, complete only on
+one side and a half however, the rest being bare walls.</p>
+
+<p>The cathedral is Gothic and very handsome, the arches
+lofty and rich; but the custom all over Spain of having
+the choir in the centre, with very high double screens,
+deprives you altogether of the fine main aisle, so magnificent
+in our churches. This spoils the effect, though the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</span>
+screens and sides of the choir in the centre were most
+richly wrought, with Gothic masonry, like some of our
+monuments of Henry VIIth’s time. The side-aisles
+above are left open, and as there is a range of chapels
+the whole way down each side, and at the end, filled
+with gildings, saints, and pictures, the whole striking.
+There were also a few good pictures.</p>
+
+<p>I afterwards went to the top of the spire, to survey
+the town, villages, and roads around. On my return,
+I was sorry to find orders to march again for this place,
+Amusea, next morning.</p>
+
+<p>The town was all hung with counterpanes on our
+arrival, which made it look gay, and the people cheered
+us much. The general cry, however, is everywhere,
+“<i lang="es" xml:lang="es">Viva Espana!</i>” though there is scarcely a Spaniard to
+be seen in our line of march. Now and then, however,
+we hear, “<i lang="es" xml:lang="es">Vivan los Ingleses!</i>” and “<i lang="es" xml:lang="es">Los Portugueses!</i>”
+or “<i lang="es" xml:lang="es">Las tres naciones aliadas!</i>” The Portuguese are in
+the highest order, the men really look at least equal to
+ours, better than some; the officers are well dressed and
+gay, and have the advantage of language; the infantry
+and the Caçadores in particular. The whole army
+marches very fresh hitherto, but the Portuguese in
+particular: they come in even to the last mile singing
+along the road. The cavalry are not nearly so good,
+and, I suppose, are not much to be trusted. From
+what passed last year near this place, when they
+turned short round and ran away, they are called the
+Vamuses, for they ran off with a general cry of
+“Vamus!” Their infantry are termed Valorosas,
+from their having hugged and cheered each other early
+in the war, when they had for the first time behaved
+well and beat off the French, each patting the other
+on the heart, and saying, “<i lang="es" xml:lang="es">Mucha valorosa!—Mucha
+valorosa!</i>”</p>
+
+<p>I hope the latter will support their name; and indeed
+they are disposed to do so, for we have put so much beef<span class="pagenum" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</span>
+into both men and officers, that they are quite different
+animals, and will not submit at all to what they used to
+do, even from the English.</p>
+
+<p>Our horses finished the half-eaten meal of the French,
+and I believe that has been all they have left behind
+for us hitherto; not a store of any kind, sick man, or
+anything else, has been discovered at Valladolid or anywhere;
+they must have been well-prepared for this plan.</p>
+
+<p>The young avenues of trees round the town suffered
+a little by the French bivouac; and our men laid waste
+many a field of wheat in their march and for forage.
+The former is particularly wrong, being quite unnecessary,
+and merely to save perhaps a few hundred yards,
+or to get before others a little. I was glad to see
+General Picton stop a party, and about to punish them
+on the spot. The taking the wheat for forage is also
+very bad, for the commissaries regularly buy a field at
+each place, and allow us to take each our proportion,
+cutting the whole fairly and properly; whereas the
+fellows who go and steal, cut patches all about, and
+tread down more than they cut.</p>
+
+<p>King Joseph left Torquemados, three leagues on the
+right, the day before yesterday, and it is said, peeped
+in again afterwards. The last French troops left it
+yesterday at five in the morning, and I believe General
+Hill’s head-quarters were there afterwards from Duennas.
+Castanos and his Spaniards are on our left all the way;
+they came by Benevente across the Esla and so towards
+Carrion. Their head-quarters were yesterday, I believe,
+at Villoldo, on our left. The Life-Guards and Blues
+looked well on their entrance into Palencia, and on their
+march yesterday the former, however, seem dull and
+out of spirits, and have some sore backs among their
+horses. The Blues seem much more up to the thing, but
+they are neither of them very fit for general service here.
+Lord Wellington saves them up for some grand coup,
+houses them when he can, and takes care of them. To<span class="pagenum" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</span>
+be sure, if many of the French cavalry are like some
+specimens we have seen, particularly two deserters
+yesterday, who were on ponies I could almost jump over,
+one of our Householders must upset them like an elephant,
+if they come fairly in contact.</p>
+
+<p>A French officer, a deserter (the third officer), came
+in two days since, with a pretty woman, daughter of
+a General, with him; he calls her his wife. Another
+starved scullion came here yesterday, and says he is an
+officer, and has some papers, but I think he stole them.
+He is a little dirty beast, in rags and without uniform.
+The cavalry who have been taken and deserters are quite
+new-clothed, and the men very fine; the last who has
+come in is a Fleming, and had they not persuaded him
+to enter our corps of guides, I should have taken him as
+a groom, and bought his pony.</p>
+
+<p>Tamarra, a village a league from this, was deserted
+by the inhabitants, with their provisions; the French, in
+consequence, made an example of it, and it is as bad as
+the Portuguese villages now, almost a heap of ruins.
+Indeed, all the houses and villages on the high road to
+Torquemada have suffered terribly, and the villages
+generally are now becoming worse, more dirty, and <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">à la
+Portuguese</i>. I hear this is now the case all round
+Burgos, and till we get across the Ebro, if we are
+destined to do this. We are eleven leagues now from
+Burgos. The weather has been cool and excellent for
+the march this last week, and rain often in the night; it
+has now rained the last sixteen hours, and I hope will be
+fine again for the march to-morrow. I dined with Lord
+Wellington yesterday, for the first time on the march,
+and gave him your Roman Catholic book, with the lists
+of their schools and establishments in England. He
+looks well, but anxious, as you may suppose just now,
+for a false step may be fatal. All prospers hitherto.
+The eighteen-pounders are near, the twenty-fours still at<span class="pagenum" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</span>
+Corunna, and if wanted will, I suppose, go round by sea
+to St. Andero. For the present, adieu.</p>
+
+<p><em>June 11th, Head-Quarters, Castrogores.</em>—The church
+at Amusea is large and handsome: a room 150 feet by
+50, and 70 feet high, without a pillar, and the whole
+end one mass of gilding. Yesterday morning, after the
+violent rains of our halting day, we started at five on a
+fine day, the roads in a terrible state, for Mergan de
+Fernamental, head-quarters, on the 10th, five long
+leagues. Our way was near the noble canal, and through
+Pino (one league), a large village. From thence another
+league through Fromista, a larger place; then another
+league to Requena: then another to Lantidillo, where
+we crossed the Pisuerga over a large bridge, left entire;
+and then after another long league, Mergan de Fernamental.</p>
+
+<p>The country was flat, and rich in corn, meadows, &amp;c.,
+nearly all the way, but low and boggy, and a hard march
+for men and baggage, &amp;c.; mine started at five, and did
+not arrive till about two. There were villages thickly
+set all around us, and all with large churches. The
+latter, compared with ours, are very much superior, considering
+the size of the places: all possess a considerable
+church of rather curious construction, and all somewhat
+different, though in general appearance alike. The
+church at Mergan was particularly handsome, and more
+like our Saxon at Gloucester and Tewkesbury. It had
+some decent pictures, so indeed have several of the
+quarters, though perhaps not very valuable. Many are
+to be bought very cheap, and I should have purchased
+some, had I known how to carry them home.</p>
+
+<p>At Mergan we were in the right road for Reynosa
+and St. Andero, and the first division were two leagues
+in advance the same way. I conjectured we were going
+to open a communication with St. Andero, and to cross
+the Ebro as soon as the French from Burgos, and thus<span class="pagenum" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</span>
+turn them. There seems now, however, to be a change
+of plan, as to-day we are come three leagues here,
+nearly in the right road again for Burgos, which we had
+before left on our right. Here we have fallen in with
+General Hill’s division, who are now within half a league
+of this place. We are thus all now quite close together,
+and report says that the French have united their army
+of the north to the rest, and are now between this and
+Burgos eighty thousand strong, about four leagues
+distant.</p>
+
+<p>They thus seem to make a stand here, and we are,
+probably, assembled in case they should persist, but
+many think it is still only a plan to make us assemble
+and draw up, to see what we have, and also to give time
+for their baggage and plunder, oxen, &amp;c., to withdraw
+without loss: time will show. The sooner the battle
+comes for us the better, I think: and so do most, but it
+will be more tremendous, probably, than any hitherto
+fought in Spain. The numbers now approach those of
+the great continental armies on both sides, and we are at
+least equal, if you reckon all that are well dressed and
+ought to fight on our side; as to the Spaniards, hitherto
+we must put a query to that. Don Julian’s cavalry
+have sent in about forty or fifty infantry stragglers of
+the French, and have killed a dozen or more,—about
+fifty or sixty in all; several with bad pike or lance
+wounds.</p>
+
+<p>Mergan is a very dirty old town, but this town,
+Castrogores, though larger, and the quarters better, is in
+that respect much worse; the streets so offensive, that
+you must hold your nose in passing through them, and
+everything about the place filthy. We passed the
+German hussars in quarters half a league off on our way
+here, and crossed the line of march of the light and
+fourth divisions, meeting General Hill’s army on our
+arrival here.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</span></p>
+
+<p>The scene is now very animated. This place is above
+a mile long, round the bottom of an insulated hill, with
+a castle at the top of it, which looks over a rich country
+for some way to a ridge of hills which bound the whole,
+about a league off; trees, however (except just round a
+few quintas or villas, and about the several ruins of the
+old monasteries), are very scarce; corn most luxuriant,
+but not much forwarder than with us in England.
+Weather, hitherto, scarcely at all too hot, and that only
+for a few hours; at times very cold. Lord Wellington
+has gone through again on in front.</p>
+
+<p><em>Castrogores, June 12th.</em>—As we halt here to-day, instead
+of marching to Eglesia, as was intended, I determined
+to finish this, and seal up to-day for Lisbon. Colonel
+A——, of the German hussars, told me that he saw
+about two or three thousand French cavalry the day
+before yesterday, but they filed off as we came in sight.
+Colonel Waters went on yesterday to within a league of
+Burgos. He only saw about fifteen thousand French in
+a valley near there, near Quinta della Duennas. They
+were about to march, and the reports are that they are
+off again, and the whole of the second division of General
+Hill’s army have advanced hence this morning. They
+began at daylight, and about eight o’clock the Spaniards
+began to file by, just below my house. This was General
+Murillo’s corps: I went down to look at them. There
+were about ten regiments, I think, but most of them
+small ones. The men looked very well, though a great
+many were quite boys. They were singing, joking, and
+in good spirits: the artillery with them in good order,
+the draft mules quite fat. The clothing and equipments
+of some very good, though unequal to ours, or to the
+Portuguese; others moderate only. They wore a sort of
+flannel jacket and trousers not at all alike, and some
+were ragged, here and there a man barefoot,—very few;
+all with good caps, in the French style, and the officers<span class="pagenum" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</span>
+more respectable than usual, and generally mounted;
+some very fierce-looking pioneers, fine grenadiers, and all
+with good English town muskets in good order, brighter
+than our own, being, most probably, nearly new: in
+short, the whole was respectable. If they will but
+fight as well as they look, it will do. Doyle’s regiment
+was one of the best; but the very best, I think, was the
+Regimento del Unione.</p>
+
+<p>General Alava, the Spanish great man at head-quarters,
+is in high spirits, thinks all going on well, and is beginning
+to ask one or two to dine with him at his mansion
+near Vittoria, where his estates lie. He only begs that
+he may have a guard to preserve his green forage from
+our soldiers. The Spaniards are astonished at our baggage.
+The French carry very little, as they make the
+people at the quarters furnish everything they want,
+which is not so much as we require. We carry everything
+with us. An English captain, therefore, has
+(plunder excepted) almost as much baggage as a French
+colonel. Barley is already scarce, and not to be bought,
+though we pay in guineas. Bread is also scarce, as well
+as beef. I hope soon to hear through St. Andero, but
+the French have Castro and Santona. We still have
+reports that the works at Burgos are being destroyed; it
+may be so, if the French resolve to go to the Ebro, for
+the garrison will otherwise be sacrificed. We have only
+six eighteen-pounders, about the same as last year; the
+twenty-fours are at Corunna. This will not do for the
+siege well, and I hope that will not be necessary. For
+the last thirty miles and more the style of the houses has
+changed. They are generally now mud or cob walls,
+like those in Devonshire, whitewashed, but not in the
+best repair, or else they are unburnt brick, or dried mud
+bricks with mud plaster.</p>
+
+<p><em>Miserable Head-Quarters at Massa, June 14th, 1813.</em>—The
+regular English post-day was yesterday, but I had<span class="pagenum" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</span>
+not time to write then, and as it is ten to one but that
+this will be in time for the same packet, though you will
+have, I hope, a long letter by the same mail, yet, wishing
+to give you the latest news from hence, and to let you
+know the events which have occurred, I write again.</p>
+
+<p>At four o’clock on the 12th, as I told you, Lord Wellington
+had not returned from the front when my last
+letter was sent off. He came back at seven o’clock; he
+and his horse and his comrades well tired. The enemy
+were found about fifteen thousand strong, two leagues
+south-west nearly of Burgos, with cavalry and artillery.
+We had up the hussars (heavy), and General Fane’s
+brigades of cavalry. Manœuvring went on a considerable
+time with skill. Our infantry could not get up in force
+in time, or much would have been done. We had a gun,
+however, close to a French column, and killed a few. We
+also took an officer and about ninety men prisoners, some
+desperately wounded, and one gun. A charge of cavalry
+was ordered, but the French moved off.</p>
+
+<p>There seems to be considerable confusion at times in
+the intermixture of the French and English. The light
+divisions were at hand; the second near with the Spaniards,
+but not up. The Prince of Orange galloped about well,
+with orders; he knocked up his horse, and was in some
+danger. Lord March met a French dragoon, took him
+till he came close for an English soldier, turned short
+round, was struck at by the Frenchman, and his horse
+slightly hit below the ear: in short, something material
+was very nearly happening.</p>
+
+<p>The next day (the 13th) we had orders to march to
+Villa Diego, where head-quarters were yesterday; a dirty
+place, but quarters tolerable. The country between is
+rich and good, and covered with villages. We passed,
+among others, Ormillos, Villa Sandine at a distance, and
+Sasamon, in perfect ruin; the whole place, church and
+all, both of considerable extent and size, having been<span class="pagenum" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</span>
+burnt by Romana and his army for some real or supposed
+treason. The destruction was certainly well performed;
+the punishment severe, and very impartially inflicted.
+The next place we came to, which had been a very neat
+village, was nearly in the same state, from the same
+cause. Villa Diego was nearly six or seven leagues from
+Burgos. Lord Wellington, &amp;c., went round that way,
+to see how matters went on. They could not find any
+French, and at last ascertained that the works, castle,
+&amp;c., of Burgos, had been all blown up and destroyed by
+five o’clock yesterday morning. This news caused no
+little joy to every one, and most particularly to those
+who expected to have to knock their heads against the
+place. Many good lives have thus been saved. This
+news met us about four o’clock yesterday, and in consequence
+to-day we had a long march to this place, Massa,
+on our way to the Ebro.</p>
+
+<p>We shall probably nearly all get across about the same
+time; I think French and all. Some of the Spanish army
+of Gallicia pass to-day up towards Reynosa. The first
+division do the same to-day or to-morrow. We met one
+cavalry brigade on their road to cross at St. Martine to-day.
+General Murray told me that we should probably cross
+to-morrow; but I find we are here five leagues from a
+bridge or ford. The first two leagues here to-day were
+through a productive country like Wiltshire; round
+smooth chalk hills, well-watered meadows, and rich
+pasture valleys, with abundance of grass: draining and
+better farming, with cleanliness, were all requisite. We
+then entered a rough, wild country, with rocks, &amp;c. We
+nearly all lost our way, including General Murray, the
+Quarter-Master-general, with whom I was riding, Lord
+Wellington himself, and nearly all the baggage! We
+were near a place called Brulla, ought to have passed
+Cuirculo, near Urbel de Castro, whereas we got through<span class="pagenum" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</span>
+a rugged pass in the rock, came down to a picturesque
+village, called La Piedra (so called, probably, from the
+rocks around it), and there we fell in with the fifth
+division. At last, after passing another little space called
+Fresnoy, and leaving Urbel de Castro, in a valley on our
+right, with a curious small castle on a pointed hill close
+to it (from whence the name), we arrived at this wretched
+place. The houses in this place would not in any way
+hold half of us; so the Spaniards have been sent back to
+Fresnoy, the artillery, commissaries, paymasters, and
+doctors to Vilalda, or some such place, a league off.</p>
+
+<p>I was forgotten, but have, from there being one spare
+quarter, got a wretched dirty hole here: it is the worst
+of dirty cottages. My baggage is all in the entrance. I
+have no place but a dirty passage to put up my bed in;
+I have a table and chair, but am surrounded by baskets,
+hampers, tubs, boxes, sheepskins, dirt, &amp;c. Cobwebs and
+dirt are dropping upon me continually. Most have encamped.
+Lord Wellington and Marshal Beresford are
+walking up and down the street, and the Military Secretary
+is writing under a wall, upon his knees, whilst his servants
+are pitching his tent. In a little field where General
+Alava is about to encamp, there were just now the Military
+Secretary, Colonel Scovell, the Commander of the Police
+Corps, Fitzclarence, General Alava, the Spanish Aide-de-camp,
+Colonel Waters, the Prince of Orange, and your
+humble servant, all lying upon the ground together,
+round a cold ham and bread, some brandy, and a bottle
+of champagne. And no bad fare either you will say.
+The Prince and Lord Fitzroy, like two boys, were playing
+together all the time.</p>
+
+<p>The people in this part of the country are as bad, if
+not worse than in Portugal. There is nothing but filth
+and laziness. They are not good-looking either. They
+live in dirty mud houses, and fleas are so abundant that<span class="pagenum" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</span>
+I cannot sleep from their annoyance. I suppose we shall
+cross near Puente Arences, or Rampalaise, to-morrow, or
+next day at the latest. The French have left about ninety
+sick or wounded at Burgos, and the bedding of the hospitals,
+about eight hundred beds. No cannon, &amp;c. We
+are already short of forage or corn for the horses; bread
+scarce, as well as spirits, and the country we enter produces
+little or nothing.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="fs80" style="margin-left: 2em; text-indent: -2em;">March continued—Quintana—Anecdote of Wellington—Morillas—Vittoria—The
+Battle—Its Results—Plunder—Kindness to the Enemy—Madame
+de Gazan—The Hospital—Sufferings of the Wounded—Estimated Loss.</p>
+
+<p class="right fs80">
+Head-quarters, Berberena,<br>
+<span style="padding-right: 2em">June 18, 1813.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="no-indent">
+<span class="smcap">My dear M——</span>,
+</p>
+
+<p><span style="padding-left: 2em">My</span> last left me at Massa, on the other side of the
+Douro, in a miserable quarter. On the following morning
+(the 15th) we marched for Quintana, on the same
+side. For about four leagues we proceeded through a
+rough hilly country, barren, but at times picturesque.
+We passed troops all the way, and at last came to a
+tremendous long hill which led us down to Quintana,
+near the banks of the Ebro. Troops were descending
+the hill, infantry, cavalry, and artillery, from eight or
+nine o’clock until past four; and at last the baggage,
+which was kept waiting on the banks around the road-side,
+moved on; the scene was very striking. The
+artillery was much shaken; some guns were lowered by
+hand, with the wheels locked, without horses, and all
+very gently; four wheels gave way, and the 18-pounders
+had to go round by St. Martine.</p>
+
+<p>The valley in which Quintana and six or seven other
+small villages were placed, and through which the Ebro
+passed, was very rich and beautiful, surrounded with
+rocky heights and covered with corn, beans, fruit, vines,
+trees, &amp;c., and the villages externally very picturesque.
+Internally, however, they were most wretched, and my<span class="pagenum" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</span>
+quarter was misery itself. The people had not seen the
+French in the valley for two years, until about ten days
+before we were there, when they had been through to
+collect contributions, and to seize part of a magazine
+formed there by Longa. The head-quarters’ house was,
+however, good, and near it was a large but unfinished
+and unoccupied college, for young persons of both sexes,
+founded about twenty years ago by the owner of the
+head-quarters’ house, by the desire of his deceased wife,
+for the education of children of the valley. The great
+man of the valley, however, was the owner of the Adjutant-general’s
+quarter, and only a Procureur there—a
+poor abode. I think he was called the Marquis de Villa
+Alta. There was a small castle, and the whole scenery,
+particularly along the banks of the river, was very delightful.
+I longed for a tent, for I could not live in my
+house in the daytime from the smoke, and could not
+sleep in the night from the fleas. The light division and
+the fourth were encamped in the meadows across the
+river, and added, by their fires and tents, much to the
+interest of the scene; the cavalry and artillery passed
+through the valley. The river runs in this part about as
+wide as the Severn above Shrewsbury—less than the
+Thames at Maidenhead.</p>
+
+<p>The next day (the 16th) we crossed the river, and proceeded
+with the troops between the lofty rocky banks of
+the river, above the valley, on a road cut close to the
+water, and winding alongside the river for about a league
+and more, most beautifully! in some respects like the
+Wye, the cliffs almost like Cheddar, and wooded to the
+water’s edge. The constant line of cavalry and infantry,
+whenever the eye caught the winding road, was very picturesque.
+In two places were the remains of walls across
+the road made by Longa or the French—I do not know
+which.</p>
+
+<p>The road afterwards turned from the river, and through<span class="pagenum" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</span>
+a fine country brought us to Medina de Pomar, leaving
+Villa Cayo on our left. Medina de Pomar, our next head-quarters,
+was a straggling dirty town, and the accommodation
+very moderate indeed. I got a tolerable clean
+room for myself at the apothecary’s, but my stable was
+down a cellar with dark stairs, and I could scarcely get
+my animals in or out. The alcalde was not civil, nor did
+the people appear glad to see us. The town was very
+full, for the Spanish Generals Mendizabel and Longa
+(the <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">ci-devant</i> Guerilla chief) were quartered there on our
+arrival, and did not seem disposed to move for us.</p>
+
+<p>I saw Longa in the street; rather a stout man, well
+dressed in a sort of hussar uniform, and looking civilized
+enough. I was in hopes of meeting him at Lord Wellington’s,
+where I dined that day, but he did not stay.
+The party of cavalry attending him were all uniformly
+dressed, and seemed to me to be more regular than most
+of the Spanish regulars. They wore scarlet jackets, and
+appeared not unlike some of our volunteer yeomanry
+cavalry, but they had quite an air of consequence which
+was amazing. Longa has left thirty of them and two
+officers at head-quarters, as part of the corps of guides,
+to assist in keeping up the communications of the army,
+in which way I have no doubt they will be very useful.</p>
+
+<p>Lord Wellington was at Medina in a large nunnery
+where there were twenty-five ladies, who came and played
+at bo-peep with us in the chapel, which was a handsome
+building. The altar was very rich, and in the centre
+was a piece of clock-work of small moveable figures describing
+the crucifixion.</p>
+
+<p>On that day General Jeron arrived, the General of the
+Gallician Spanish army acting with us, and he dined
+there. Castanos, the former General, is now a sort of
+General of two armies, and amuses himself by parading
+through all the towns and places in the rear of the army,
+Burgos last: I suppose he is employed somehow in this<span class="pagenum" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</span>
+way. Jeron is a man about thirty-six, I should think,
+and looks very much like a gentleman and a man of
+talent; he is very well spoken of, and considered as one
+of the best of the Spanish leaders. Through Corunna
+we have news to the 6th of June. Talking during dinner
+of the late accounts from Bonaparte, and of the sentimental
+story about Duroc, which Lord Wellington was
+laughing at, General Jeron said, “If there was such a
+place as hell, he thought Bonaparte quite right, and that
+he and Duroc would most certainly meet again there.”</p>
+
+<p>Yesterday, the 17th, we started again (having had no
+halts) for Quincoces, five long leagues almost, towards
+Vittoria, but to the left: there our head-quarters were
+yesterday, in that and the neighbouring villages. The
+troops I think were pushed on in this way, from an account
+received from Longa and others, that the French
+rear was still at Pencorbo, and part even at Briviesca, on
+the other side of the Ebro. Longa gave great hopes of
+doing something. We have, however, our difficulties
+from this. We get no corn for the horses, and bread is
+very scarce; stores gone for the present, for we outrun
+our supplies, and there is very little to be bought. We
+have bought some and baked it, to supply us as we go,
+but some divisions have been for one or two days entirely
+without, and others on short allowance. We hope now
+soon to get into a better country, towards Vittoria, but
+Longa and the French have cleared everything about this
+country.</p>
+
+<p>Longa, when we came to Quincoces, was ordered on to
+Orduna, having had all he could from this place. On
+taking leave he collected all their oxen for the plough,
+ninety in number, all they had left, and drove them off.
+The people received us with tears and lamentations, and
+with no small fear, not knowing what we should require
+next. My patron seemed quite stupified and melancholy.
+We told this to General Alava, and he galloped off with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</span>
+two dragoons after Longa’s people and the oxen, overtook
+them, and compelled them to restore them to the
+owners, to their no small satisfaction. At last we found
+eight hundred pounds of bread, that is, flour; half a day’s
+rations for head-quarters only. We bought it, paid for
+it with guineas, and baked it—<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">voilà la différence!</i> But
+this cannot last or be general; the divisions cannot do
+this.</p>
+
+<p>We last night heard that the French were over the
+river Ebro, and as near Vittoria as we were. However,
+we advanced in hopes of something arising, and head-quarters
+were ordered to be at this place, Berberena, and
+the neighbouring villages. It was intended that Marshal
+Beresford should have been at a village half a league in
+front of this place, but when we arrived near here, about
+nine o’clock, we found two divisions of the 1st and 5th
+halted here until further orders. We heard a cannonading
+in the front, at this village, and found that the
+French were making some stand in a narrow pass near it,
+and in the village. Beresford was put into a village to
+the rear of us, and an order soon came out for all baggage
+to proceed to that village for security. Mine was
+unloaded; but as I saw the French just before us, only
+about a mile off or little more, I made my people all load
+again and stand ready to be off, whilst I went with my
+glass to the end of the village, to a rising ground, to
+witness the skirmishing, and to be ready to act accordingly.</p>
+
+<p>A brisk cannonade was going on, a few shells were
+thrown, and a light infantry attack. The French I saw
+very plainly in the churchyard and village on the hill
+beyond. They advanced under a ridge in the ground
+and some bushes, where they stood above an hour and
+more, when I saw our men and the Portuguese advance
+gradually and drive them back. The cannon advanced
+also, and the French by degrees went out of sight round<span class="pagenum" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</span>
+the hill, our guns and soldiers after them. Very few I
+believe were killed on either side; but our light division
+I find went round by Espeja, and, falling in with another
+division early in the day, routed them so completely,
+that two battalions dispersed, and the light division got
+a quantity of mules and baggage, with a good deal of
+money; some privates got two or three hundred pounds.
+About three hundred prisoners were taken, and some of
+the runaways are still coming in. One French battalion
+fled towards Frias, and some Spaniards are sent off after
+them.</p>
+
+<p><em>Morillas, Head-Quarters, June 20th.</em>—Our orders yesterday
+morning (the 19th) were to set out at eight o’clock
+through Osma, where a little affair took place the day
+before, and so on to Escorta, following the fourth division.
+We did this, and I was riding with the doctors
+just before that division on towards Escorta, when we
+were told that the French were only two miles in advance,
+and that there was nothing between us. Upon
+this we turned out of the road into a field of vetches for
+the horses, and let the fourth division go by, and have
+the honour of preceding us, as we did not quite think
+the French would run away at the sight of us civilians.
+When this division came well up we went on, passed
+through Escorta to another village half a league beyond,
+and then, by the advice of an officer, who told us they
+were going to attack the French, who were strong at
+this place, Morillas, and that the passage of the river
+was to be forced, we ascended a high hill on our right,
+which commanded the whole scene of action, and there
+with our glasses we could distinctly see everything.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as the light division had got almost round
+the hill on our right, from the direction nearly of the
+Frias road, in order to be ready to advance and turn the
+French position, the fourth division advanced to the
+village here, and the skirmishing began from the houses<span class="pagenum" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</span>
+and a chapel on the river. In about half an hour our
+men entered the village, and we got about three field-pieces
+into play close to it. We then saw the French,
+who were in considerable force on the other side, and
+formed into a crescent on a hill near, begin to move off,
+at first gently, but soon in quick time, and a part of our
+division was very soon formed beyond the village over
+the river. The skirmishing thus went on all the way
+up the road and hill beyond to another village half a
+league further on the hill, where the French were drawn
+up in greater force. When our men got up, however,
+the enemy went off pretty quickly, and were last night
+in great force, some say fifty thousand, in a plain about
+a league and a half from this, and about half way to
+Vittoria.</p>
+
+<p>The pass here was very defensible, and not easily
+turned; but the resistance was very slight, and few fell
+on either side. I suppose the French were afraid of
+bringing on a general action by further resistance. They
+had not any artillery with them near here, I conclude,
+from the fear of losing their guns, as just through and
+near the village the road is so bad and narrow, that our
+baggage, without any resistance, did not pass through to
+the two divisions beyond until dark at eight o’clock, our
+head-quarter baggage having all followed on here.</p>
+
+<p>Lord Wellington walked into a house and made it
+head-quarters. I have a sort of barn here. We have
+had wet and cold weather for these three days; I can
+scarcely keep myself warm to write, though with my cap
+on and double waistcoats. This is considered extraordinary
+here for the 20th of June, though the climate is
+always much colder and more subject to wet than in the
+more southern parts of Spain.</p>
+
+<p>There is a large plain near Vittoria, and then all beyond
+is hilly to France. An officer of the 95th was
+killed on the 18th, and about seventy men wounded, I<span class="pagenum" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</span>
+hear. Yesterday an officer of the Fusileers was wounded
+badly in this village, and lies in a house here: in another
+house a very spirited Portuguese (Caçadores) serjeant is
+also lying wounded.</p>
+
+<p><em>3 o’clock.</em>—The French remain in the valley, but it is
+thought will be off to-night.</p>
+
+<p><em>Vittoria, June 23rd, 1813.</em>—My last was of the 20th
+from Morillas, and on the 21st I arrived here after a
+scene never to be forgotten. Our baggage was that
+morning ordered to remain ready to load until further
+orders. The French were very strongly posted at about
+a league and a half distance, directly across the road to
+Vittoria, about sixty or seventy thousand strong, and
+extending about a league; their centre supported by a
+wood and a small river, their left by strong wooded hills,
+and their right on another hill not so strong. The
+attack was ordered in the manner you have seen before
+this in the “<cite>Gazette</cite>.” General Graham was to turn
+the French right flank; General Hill their left. I
+mounted my horse about nine to see the result, leaving
+Henry and everything behind, with directions to do
+exactly the same as Lord Wellington’s servants. I got,
+with Dr. M’Gregor and a few others, on a hill about a
+mile from the French, which commanded nearly the
+whole scene. At about half-past ten the firing began
+very briskly on the hills on the French left. The different
+ridges were well contested; but our people constantly,
+though gradually, gained ground, and advanced
+along the top ridge to turn the French. The cavalry
+were nearly all close under us to be ready, some in the
+rear, and one division of infantry also. General Pakenham’s
+division was not up at all—it was four leagues in
+the rear.</p>
+
+<p>By the ground gained on the French left, and soon
+after from General Picton having got up quite on the
+ridge of the hills there with his division, a steep and difficult<span class="pagenum" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</span>
+ascent, the centre were enabled to advance a little
+also, and much skirmishing began there near a little
+village before us, which was for some time contested.
+At length, some guns being brought to bear there, and
+one also half way up the hill, the village was passed by
+our people, and we saw them lying sheltered under a hill
+beyond, nearly opposite the wood at the French centre.
+A smart contest then ensued. The cannon and a few
+men from the hill and village fired into the wood, and a
+constant firing was kept up from the wood on our men;
+the main contest being still, however, on the hills on the
+French left. By this time, about one, we on our hill all
+advanced to another nearer, to observe more distinctly
+with our glasses. Soon after this, General Graham’s
+attack began on the French right, and a very brisk cannonade
+was then kept up right and left. The French
+line on the hill on the right and left (for we saw the
+whole of their line) began to give way a little, and to put
+itself in motion, and the plot then thickened. Still we
+gained ground, and some of our men also got close to the
+wood, and, lying down, kept up a smart fire. The cannonading
+lasted two or three hours, the English constantly
+gaining ground. Our party moved a second time
+to a third hill within the original French picquets, and
+in front of our cavalry. At last we saw our line forming
+gradually under shelter of the rising ground, within half
+a mile of the French line and guns. They then advanced,
+and the cavalry began to move up—some say
+rather late, as Lord Wellington was not there to give
+the orders.</p>
+
+<p>We then left our hill and advanced with the Household
+Brigade constantly as they moved. We now began
+to see the effects of the guns. Dead and wounded men
+and horses, some in the most horrible condition, were
+scattered all along the way we passed. These were principally
+cannon-shot wounds, and were on that account<span class="pagenum" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</span>
+the more horrible. It was almost incredible that some
+could live in the state we saw them. From my black
+feather I was taken by some for a doctor, and appealed
+to in the most piteous voice and affecting manner, so
+that I immediately took out my feather, not to be supposed
+so unfeeling as to pass on without taking any
+notice of these poor creatures. Our hospital spring-waggons
+were following, and men with frames to lift up
+and carry off those near the roads. Some in the fields
+about crawled by degrees into the villages; but hundreds
+have lain without food or having their wounds dressed
+until now, two days afterwards. Parties are sent all
+over the contested ground to find them, though the peasants
+are continually bringing in the wounded.</p>
+
+<p>On the hill in the centre of the French position, at a
+village where we first came in full sight of Vittoria, and
+about two miles distance, the contest was very sharp,
+and the three first guns were taken, with several tumbrils,
+and there the first charge of cavalry took place.
+The sufferers there were principally Portuguese of the
+11th and 21st regiments, and we had all along seen
+more of our people wounded than the French. We now
+found swords, muskets, knapsacks, &amp;c., in all directions.
+The stragglers and followers were stripping and plundering,
+and a scramble ensued for the corn, &amp;c., which was
+in the tumbrils with the ammunition. The Hussars in
+their charges suffered much. The Life Guards I kept
+close to all the way to Vittoria, and to that time they
+were not engaged.</p>
+
+<p>We could hear the whistle of the cannon-shot, and
+saw the ground torn up where they struck. Tumbrils
+and guns were now found upset or deserted at every
+half-mile; and when we got near Vittoria the road was
+absolutely choked up with them, so that our artillery was
+some time stopped. Some of the Life Guards were
+placed at the gates and in the streets here, to keep soldiers,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</span>
+&amp;c., out, and to preserve order as far as possible;
+and we rode into Vittoria amidst the cries, hurras, and
+<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">vivas</i> of the mob, which consisted chiefly of women. We
+looked into the stores and found little left, and then
+passed through the town, at the further side of which we
+stopped at a very curious scene. The French so little
+expected the result, that all their carriages were caught,
+and stopped at this place—three of King Joseph’s, those
+of the Generals, &amp;c.; the Paymaster and his chest, the
+<i lang="es" xml:lang="es">Casa real</i>, hundreds of tumbrils, the wives of the Generals,
+all flying in confusion; several carriages upset, the horses
+and mules removed from them, the women still in their
+carriages, and the Spaniards (a few soldiers, but principally
+the common people) beginning to break open and
+plunder everything, assisted by a few of our soldiers.
+Upon the whole, our people got but little of the plunder,
+except by seizing and selling a few mules. The seats of
+the carriages were broken with great stones and ransacked,
+and gold, silver, and plate were found in several
+in abundance. I took a case of maps, part of Lopez’ provincial
+set, and a horse-cloth, which I bought of a Portuguese
+soldier as a memorial, but would not meddle with
+the rest. Maps, books, &amp;c., were thrown aside; brandy,
+&amp;c., drank.</p>
+
+<p>In the midst of this, a lady in great distress, well
+dressed and elegant, with her carriage in the ditch, and
+she herself standing by, appealed to me, and, asking me
+if I could speak French, said she was the Countess de
+Gazan, wife of the French General, and that she wished
+to get back to the town, and, if possible, save her horses,
+mules, and carriage, and those of King Joseph, which
+were by. With the assistance of two hussars, after above
+an hour, I at last accomplished this in a great measure;
+that is, I got the lady, her woman, the carriage, and four
+out of six of the animals, to the house of a friend whom
+she pointed out to me, and also a few loose things out of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</span>
+the carriage. The other two animals and the three
+trunks of clothes had been plundered before I arrived. I
+also put King Joseph’s carriage and horses in their way
+to the square of the town; I then went and tried to find
+out amongst the prisoners a little boy of two years old, a
+son of the General, whom some French gens-d’armes had
+taken from the carriage to carry off, and who had not
+since been seen, and whom the mother thought was taken
+prisoner. I could not find him anywhere; but I met
+Lord Wellington returning to the Palace at ten at night
+to his quarters there; and as Madame de Gazan was most
+anxious that he should know she was taken, I told him,
+and also about her boy. He desired me to say that he
+could not then see her, but that she might rely on his
+doing what he could to find the child, and that she should
+be immediately at liberty to join her husband. This I
+went and told her. I also found an English aide-de-camp
+of General Hill, who had been released only the day
+before, having been prisoner, and to whom she had been
+very kind when he was with the French, and who had,
+on taking leave, promised, if the fate of war should make
+a change in their relative situations, to return her attentions.</p>
+
+<p>My return and message made her more easy: I fear,
+from what I have since heard, that her boy was killed
+between two carriages; but still hope he may have escaped.
+The confusion lasted all night, and indeed, has
+continued until now. The event was also so little expected
+on our part, that for a long time there were no
+guards for the prisoners, and many escaped in consequence,
+and several are still wandering about the country.</p>
+
+<p>The next day (22nd) the head-quarters followed the
+French to Salvatierra; but I was advised by Colonel
+Campbell and others to stay quietly here, and proceed
+afterwards. I did so, but already repent, for no place is
+so certain of news, and so secure, as head-quarters, though<span class="pagenum" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</span>
+the accommodation is often most wretched. I have been
+over the hospital, and the scene which I there witnessed
+was most terrible; seventeen or eighteen hundred men,
+without legs or arms, &amp;c., or with dreadful wounds, and
+having had nothing to eat for two or three days, the
+misery extreme, and not nearly hands sufficient to dress
+or take care of the men—English, Portuguese, Spaniards,
+and French all together, though the Spaniards and Portuguese
+had at first no provision at all for their people.
+Half the wounded have been scattered round the villages
+in the neighbourhood; and there are still many to come
+in, who arrive hourly, and are lying in all the passages
+and spare places around the hospital. A Commissary is
+just established.</p>
+
+<p>Six hospital waggons are just now setting out for
+another load of these poor wounded fellows!</p>
+
+<p>I do not know what now to do as to proceeding to join
+head-quarters; for, to our great surprise, last night Lord
+March was sent over here to tell the Commandant, who
+was just appointed, that it was discovered that from ten
+to twelve thousand French, supposed to come from
+Bilboa, were in our rear, and might be in here soon;
+that a division of men (I believe General Pakenham’s)
+was left for our protection, but that every man here capable
+of bearing arms must be kept in readiness, and every
+one must be ready to leave this place at an hour’s notice.
+I now, therefore, do not know what to do exactly, and
+wish myself at head-quarters. The pay-chest, with about
+a hundred or a hundred and twenty thousand dollars of
+French prize money in addition, is still here, and several
+of the doctors.</p>
+
+<p>In the blue coach was a box of gold in different shapes,
+which a servant of King Joseph stayed behind to give up
+to Lord Wellington, and which report says he has given
+to his own personal staff. But everything was in confusion;
+even the ammunition waggons were left unguarded,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</span>
+and were broken open to be ransacked, and we have had
+accidental or intentional explosions almost every hour
+since. One tumbril with twenty shells was set fire to by
+the foolish Spaniards yesterday, and several persons were
+hurt in consequence. Every one is taking and wasting
+the musket cartridges, notwithstanding Lord Wellington
+is really in want of some. All, however, are now busy in
+trying to remedy this confusion.</p>
+
+<p>I hear that nearly one hundred and forty pieces of
+artillery have been now taken in different states and
+places between Morillas and Salvatierra. The French,
+however, have comparatively lost fewer men than we did;
+the Portuguese more than their proportion; the Spaniards,
+several. Some corps behaved well, though General
+Picton said some liked best to fire away and make a noise
+at a distance.</p>
+
+<p>I fear that few prisoners are taken—as far as I can
+learn about a thousand; and I suppose they had a thousand
+killed and wounded, having done us much mischief
+with their tremendous artillery firing. Their line would
+not stand at all when Graham advanced to turn them, but
+they were off so quick that our men opposed to them
+could not get up to them. Had they waited for a fair
+attack, the prisoners would probably have been numerous.
+As it is, the French still have numbers, and, though the
+equipments of the army are gone, they may, if they can
+fall back on supplies, be again formidable. Report also
+says that Suchet is moving fast to join them. Last
+night, when our head-quarters were at Salvatierra, the
+rear of the French was three leagues in advance; they
+are off so quick, the weather is so bad and wet, that I
+fear we shall have many sick in the pursuit. The result
+of the whole is, however, the most glorious possible, whatever
+may be the consequence; never was there for the
+time an army of sixty or seventy thousand men, as we
+say, more completely routed and put to flight. Several<span class="pagenum" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</span>
+French Generals are killed, wounded, or prisoners; in
+officers of rank the French have suffered much.</p>
+
+<p>It is so very difficult to be at all certain as to our own
+loss, unless one is in the secret, that I shall say nothing
+but that General Colville, who had a slight knock in the
+arm, is the only officer wounded of whom I have heard.
+The 18th Hussars suffered much. I must now see the
+Commandant, and settle whether to move or not. The
+reports when not at head-quarters puzzle one very much.
+A dragoon (Spanish) rode into the town yesterday, and
+came up to me in the square to ask for the mayor of the
+town, to tell him that six thousand French were only two
+leagues off. I took him to General Pakenham, whose
+division had just arrived. He carried the man off to see
+what he knew, and said, if true, he would have a dash at
+them. I suppose this was in part true, from what passed
+afterwards about the French in our rear; the division of
+men is still, however, close to us.</p>
+
+<p>Suchet was endeavouring to join the other French
+army, and was, as the prisoners say, in the neighbourhood
+of Logrono for that purpose, so that he will soon be with
+the others. Tarragona we hear is taken, and I conclude
+Murray is after Suchet. I have had much conversation
+with the Commissary-general of the army of Portugal,
+a talkative perfect Frenchman. He has lost everything,
+and has neither money nor a change of linen, but he
+seems tolerably happy. He says he had orders to pay
+out of the Treasury when the fire had commenced, which
+was madness, and he described the confusion of the fight
+most eloquently and most truly I am sure. Joseph had
+sent off a caravan of valuable pictures only the day
+before, and various kinds of baggage, and a heavy train
+of artillery. Some of this will, I think, be caught in
+the confusion, but the pictures probably destroyed.</p>
+
+<p>Head-quarters are to-day at Echarva Aramaz, and I
+mean to get as near that place to-morrow as I can, or<span class="pagenum" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</span>
+even there, if I can get my baggage over the nine
+leagues in the bad state of the roads, for it has rained
+constantly these ten hours. Lord Wellington has not
+given the box of treasure to his private staff. It has not
+yet been opened, but is here. Colonel Campbell, who is
+just come into the town on business, says that the French
+have committed great ravages on their route from this
+place, destroying property, committing every excess. A
+girl at Lord Wellington’s quarters at Salvatierra accuses
+even King Joseph of an attempt at violence; but I do
+not believe it. Some very strange things were found in
+the baggage. I was sorry to find that, except stragglers
+and more baggage, we have got little more by our pursuit.
+There are tumbrils I am told to the amount of five
+hundred, and carriages and carts as many. King Joseph
+had neither a knife and fork nor a clean shirt with him
+last night. The loss to the French must be very considerable,
+though our gain is not nearly so great, from the
+destruction of many, and the quantity of things taken, to
+us of little use.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="fs80" style="margin-left: 2em; text-indent: -2em;">Pamplona—Pursuit of Clausel—Wellington on the March—Prospects of
+more Fighting—Effects of the War—The French Position turned—Anecdote
+of Wellington—Ernani—St. Sebastian—Wellington’s Movements.</p>
+
+<p class="right fs80">
+Head-quarters, half a league from<br>
+<span style="padding-right: 2em">Pamplona.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="no-indent">
+<span class="smcap">My dear M——</span>,
+</p>
+
+<p><span style="padding-left: 2em">I</span> have repented staying two days at Vittoria. The
+consequence has been that I fell in with all the fagged
+division of the army, and found every hole full of troops,
+and nothing to eat or drink. The roads were poached up
+knee-deep with clay, and I have almost knocked up both
+myself and my animals. Yesterday I had no dinner,
+and to-day no breakfast, and the first day I was twelve
+hours on the road going six leagues to a place two
+leagues beyond Salvatierra; from thence I got in
+thirteen hours more to Orunzun, eight leagues. There
+my baggage did not arrive in time, and I went to bed
+without dinner and without anything except the comforts
+of a Spanish cottage.</p>
+
+<p>I set out this morning for head-quarters. Now we
+start fair again; to-morrow we march. Pamplona is
+invested, but I fear that we have little means for a very
+regular siege; and accounts state that Clausel is, with
+fifteen thousand men, on his road from Logrono, endeavouring
+to escape towards Suchet. It is hoped that we
+may intercept him, or at least his guns; and so we
+march, though the army is terribly fagged, and the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</span>
+animals also. General Graham is at Tolosa; Mina at
+Tudela to assist against Clausel. From Vittoria to this
+place we have constantly passed at first stripped and
+unburied dead, then baggage and animals without number,
+but the French have got off to France, and march away
+like monkeys, scrambling over everything, consequently
+there are few prisoners. Lord Wellington is in the
+highest spirits. King Joseph was within two hundred
+yards of our dragoons, and had a narrow escape. A few
+more cannon have been taken.</p>
+
+<p>It is one continued pass, or valley, all the way from
+Vittoria to this place; the road infamous, villages every
+mile, but much damaged by the French, and the people,
+from affluence, reduced to misery and distress. Oh war!
+war! little do you know of it in England. At Orunzun
+the French had spent much in a blockhouse and fort;
+they withdrew the garrison for the battle, and the
+peasants destroyed it immediately.</p>
+
+<p><em>One league from Sanguessa, Head-Quarters, Casseda,
+June 29th, 1813.</em>—Thus far we have arrived in pursuit of
+Clausel and his division, who were at Logrono, on their
+way to join King Joseph. Had the battle been delayed
+two days longer, we should have had these fifteen thousand
+men, in addition, to contend with; for by that time they
+would have joined the king’s army. As it was, they were
+in some degree cut off and separated from their friends,
+and might have been in some danger; for had it not
+been for the information of some treacherous alcalde
+(I believe), these men would have proceeded towards
+Pamplona, and would then have fallen completely into
+our net. As it is, hearing of our approach, and having
+the start, there is no chance of doing anything with
+them, I think; they have full opportunity of joining
+Suchet, and nothing material in their way, though Mina
+may harass them much. Our army, by this pursuit,
+already is terribly harassed and out of sorts.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</span></p>
+
+<p>In marching, our men have no chance at all with the
+French. The latter beat them hollow; principally, I
+believe, owing to their being a more intelligent set of
+beings, seeing consequences more, and feeling them.
+This makes them sober and orderly whenever it becomes
+material, and on a pinch their exertions and individual
+activity are astonishing. Our men get sulky and desperate,
+drink excessively, and become daily more weak and
+unable to proceed, principally from their own conduct.
+They eat voraciously when opportunity offers, after having
+had short fare. This brings on fluxes, &amp;c. In every
+respect, except courage, they are very inferior soldiers to
+the French and Germans. When the two divisions, the
+fourth and light, passed through Taffalla the day before
+yesterday, the more soldierlike appearance and conduct of
+the foreigners, though in person naturally inferior, was
+very mortifying. Lord Wellington feels it much, and is
+much hurt.<a id="FNanchor_4" href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a></p>
+
+<p>The 23rd and 11th Portuguese regiments, who behaved
+in the field on the 23rd as well as any British did
+or could do, are on the march, though smaller animals,
+most superior. They were cheerful, orderly, and steady.
+The English troops were fagged, half tipsy, weak, disorderly,
+and unsoldierlike; and yet the Portuguese suffer
+greater real hardships, for they have no tents, and only
+bivouac, and have a worse commissariat.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</span></p>
+
+<p>I think we shall to-morrow retrace our steps to Pamplona,
+and give over this pursuit. Lord Wellington,
+I think, sees it will not do. We had a very long march
+the day before yesterday to Taffalla. The road was,
+however, very good on the Canuria Real from Pamplona
+to Tudela. Thinking that the French were making to
+Tudela, we proceeded that way by this forced march.
+The country was very fine. About two leagues from
+Pamplona was a handsome, plain, elegant aqueduct, of one
+hundred arches, light and simple. We passed several
+villages, and, near Taffalla, a quantity of well-managed
+orchards and garden-ground; the consequence was, fruit
+and vegetables cheap and good, plenty of cherries about
+1<em>d.</em> a-pound, pears and plums, &amp;c.; onions, beans, peas,
+lettuce, pork, cheap; in short, a most plentiful Spanish
+market.</p>
+
+<p>Taffalla is a good town, and the people civil and
+hospitable. They had never seen us before, and gave us
+a welcome. I should have liked another day there, for
+both my men and animals were knocked up, and wanted
+it. The next day, however, we proceeded by a mountain-road
+over a little sierra to this place (Casseda), changing
+our direction of march, though the object was the same.
+Last night, I believe, it was found that the French had
+much the start of us, and had crossed the Ebro. In
+short, I presume from this, and from the very harassed
+and bad state of the men to-day, we halted here; and I
+suspect to-morrow we shall return.</p>
+
+<p>Lord Wellington himself seemed knocked up yesterday;
+he ate little or nothing, looking anxious, and slept
+nearly all the time of sitting after dinner. I think he
+was not quite well, and anxious, no doubt. Lord March
+was sent off to General Graham, at Tolosa; he returned
+yesterday, and reports that General Graham had entered
+Tolosa, which might have been well defended. He blew
+open the gates with a nine-pounder, and so got in.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</span>
+General Foy, however, had taken a position beyond, with
+eighteen thousand men, in such a strong country, that
+Graham dared not attack him, and Lord March thought
+the loss would be great if we did, unless we could turn it
+by a circuitous march. He said the country was in that
+direction full of positions; in short there is much yet
+to do.</p>
+
+<p>Tarragona is, I believe, not taken at last. General
+Murray re-embarked when Suchet’s army came that way.
+This, as a plan to free Valencia, has, I believe, answered,
+and Elio, &amp;c., have advanced. Longa’s people have
+behaved well in another affair since the battle. The day
+after to-morrow I expect to be either in sight of Pamplona
+again, or to be on the way towards the Tolosa
+road; but time will show.</p>
+
+<p>From this place, which is a large village on a hill, we
+have a full view of a long range of the Pyrenees, which
+I have been spying at with a good glass. They are fine
+mountains, but much less so, I think, than the Alps. I
+see much snow on them, but no glaciers. The shapes
+are more picturesque, but less astonishing and sublime.
+We are, however, far off, and perhaps I do not do justice
+to these hoary gentlemen. There is no snow summit so
+far as I can see, only great lodgments of snow.</p>
+
+<p><em>Huarte, July 2nd, in front of Pamplona.</em>—As expected,
+we yesterday set out on our way back here, a
+short cut over the sierra, to Monreal—the day before
+yesterday sending the guns, &amp;c., round by Taffalla, and
+from Monreal here yesterday. This is a wild road, and
+yet not very picturesque. About this place we have a
+fine plain, in which Pamplona stands. The town is
+invested, but I believe that is all, and no steps have yet
+been taken for the siege; the place is strong, and we
+have as yet no guns for the purpose. We yesterday
+found the suburbs burning, the work of the French, and
+more women sent away from the town. The town looks<span class="pagenum" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</span>
+handsome, but somehow has disappointed me. A French
+party also still holds out at Pancorvo; the worst of all,
+however, is the bad news from General Murray. It is
+said that he went off in such a hurry when he heard of
+Suchet’s approach, that, without waiting to know his
+exact danger, or where Suchet was, he embarked, leaving
+all his battering artillery, or as some say twenty pieces,
+with all the ammunition, &amp;c., belonging to them, in a
+perfect state for the use of the French; and this when,
+in fact, he had four days to remove it in, and when the
+Admiral offered to undertake to bring it off. I am glad,
+however, to hear that Lord William Bentinck has arrived
+to take the command. The odds are, however, that the
+Spaniards will get a beating under Elio before our men
+join them again; it is now said that Suchet left five
+thousand men at Valencia also. In short, in this game
+of chess we are playing, there is almost always some bad
+move to counteract Lord Wellington’s good ones.</p>
+
+<p>It is now said that we are not to wait here for the
+siege, but to move towards Bayonne, and the King’s
+army, which is said to have taken up a position on the
+frontiers. We expect to move towards Roncesvalles to-morrow;
+but this is not settled. In my opinion we
+should have done this immediately, without going after
+Clausel; but no doubt Lord Wellington knew best what
+to do. We have to-day cold rainy weather again, bad
+for men in camp. This place, Huarte, is rather a large
+village with tolerable market. Villa Alba, half a mile
+off, where some troops are posted, seems better still.
+We are about two miles from Pamplona, across a little
+stream, now from the rains become a respectable river.
+The great distress at present is for horseshoes, and to-morrow
+I expect a mountain march.</p>
+
+<p>It is now stated that we took fourteen hundred prisoners
+altogether in this late battle, not wounded, eleven
+hundred wounded, and about seven hundred and fifty<span class="pagenum" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</span>
+were found dead; the prisoners reckon their own loss at
+eleven thousand. However, as they say, thousands ran
+away over the mountain, and left the army altogether,
+this must be exaggeration. If the armistice produces a
+Russian and Prussian peace, and we are left here to
+Bonaparte’s sole attention and undivided care, I fear we
+may again see the neighbourhood of Portugal before six
+months are passed, notwithstanding the late most glorious
+victory.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Ostiz, July 3rd (Civil Department at
+Boutain).</em>—Here we are now within five leagues and less
+of France, and on our way, at least, towards Bayonne.
+General Hill is, I believe, to be to-day at Estevan, and
+we have some men in France, at St. Jean Pied de Port.
+General Foy’s (French) eighteen thousand have left their
+position beyond Tolosa, having given the great convoy
+three days more time to be off. This convoy had the
+pictures, immense service of plate of the King, three
+hundred pieces of heavy artillery, &amp;c.: I think we might
+have caught it had we known how things were going on.
+They have now retreated to France, and I believe Graham
+after them. All cars and wheel carriages remain at
+Orcayen, near Pamplona; I guess, therefore, we shall
+soon be back again, and perhaps proceed against Suchet,
+if he joins Clausel at Saragossa, as his orders, from intercepted
+letters, were supposed to be. Your proverb,
+however, <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">vedremo co’l tempo</i>, applies here, as well as everywhere.
+Dr. M’Gregor is very much engaged, and if this
+wet weather continues will, I think, be more so. I am
+so cold now that I am writing with my coat buttoned
+up, and my hat on, and we have constant showers. For
+about three hours the day before yesterday it was excessively
+hot. So we go on! As yet we have seen nothing
+very beautiful on this road, but it may mend. I am
+hungry, tired, and worried, and must send this off to
+Ostiz: so adieu.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</span></p>
+
+<p>Lord Aylmer has now a brigade, and has joined it as
+Major-general. General Pakenham is the Adjutant-general.
+Three thousand of our men wounded at Vittoria.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Lans, July 5th, 1813 (Civil Department,
+the Spaniards and Artillery at Arriez).</em>—We were
+yesterday ordered to proceed to Lans, but not very early,
+as the French were in the neighbourhood. It rained all
+the way, and was very cold and uncomfortable, and what
+added much to the unpleasantness of the journey, was
+the horrible road and the loss of my horse’s shoes. The
+first league of this <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">camina real</i> was a narrow lane of large
+loose stones, nearly the size of my head, with all the
+interstices filled with good Brentford slop, half a foot
+deep; baggage constantly stopped the way. About half
+way, however, I bribed a Spanish farrier to put me on
+three Spanish shoes, until the heads of the nails half an
+inch square, upon six of which heads in each shoe the
+horses walk, as the shoe never touches a stone; these
+skaits are, however, much better than nothing. Having
+stopped an hour in the rain for this, I proceeded, and at
+Lans found an order to go on half a league on the left.
+We are almost all here, or close by, except the Adjutant-general’s
+and Quarter-Master-general’s departments, and
+except Marshal Beresford. The latter was to have been
+in my house, but did not like it, and found a place at
+Lans. The quarter being vacant, I popped into a large
+rambling black place, with long tables and benches, like
+your servants’ hall, great stables, &amp;c., all under one roof.</p>
+
+<p>The villages are nearly all alike in general shape and
+accommodation;—scarcely any cottages but farm-houses,
+and I suppose the great tables and benches they all
+contain have been in better times used for the workmen
+to dine. This has been the character of all the villages
+for the last ten or twelve miles, and they lie very thick,
+four in sight here, and probably ten within a league.
+The hills around are all covered with wood; the valley<span class="pagenum" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</span>
+almost knee deep with grass for hay, and abounding in
+corn; the walks further on towards the mountains very
+pleasant; fine oaks and rocks, &amp;c.; the climate very cold
+for England in July, and wet; the verdure like that of
+Ireland; plenty of sheep on the mountains, but little to
+be had here except milk. At Lans there was pork at a
+penny a pound, and French brandy.</p>
+
+<p>To-day we halt here, for the French are disposed to
+stand a little further. Our cavalry moved last night
+to Almandos, two leagues on,—the 14th, and some
+Germans, and General Hill’s head-quarters, to Berrueta,
+whence the French retired. The reports now are that
+General Hill sent word last night that the French were
+strongly posted a little farther on, and that the peasants
+said they were eight thousand; but though he could not
+see so many, he did not much like the position. Lord
+Wellington sent him word that he would be there by
+ten o’clock this morning, and he is gone with most of
+the military staff. We have heard firing very plainly,
+but know not where it is. This is famous ground for
+sharp-shooting, as you cannot see in general a hundred
+yards before you. General Byng, with some British
+and Spanish, is gone along the Roncesvalles road,
+toward St. Jean Pied de Port, and Graham proceeds
+by the great road. Some stores are ordered round to
+land at Deva; I conclude we shall only secure the
+passes, and that we shall not enter France. Ground
+is broken up before Pamplona, but I think only for form
+sake; very few men at work. Only the six eighteen-pounders
+are at hand. An artillery serjeant I hear
+deserted from Pamplona two days since, and is supposed
+to have given important information. General Wimpfen
+tells me that the French have some works at Elisondo,
+which is, I suppose, the place General Hill is stopped
+by, and that they seem disposed to make a little stand
+there. I wish Suchet would either come up by Saragossa<span class="pagenum" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</span>
+and fight near Pamplona, and thus save us that
+long trip, or that he would be off at once, like the rest;
+the latter is, however, I fear, more to be wished than
+expected. With Clausel, he will have probably, including
+garrisons, about forty thousand men. If after
+all a peace should be made, leaving out England and
+the Peninsula, we must even now still be off, and I only
+hope it will be settled before the autumn bad weather;
+another rainy retreat from this part will never do. I
+think we may at least stand towards the Astrinos and
+Gallicia, and not go back to Frenada, for Bonaparte,
+with all his energy and activity, can scarcely be ready to
+follow us in force this autumn.</p>
+
+<p>My old witch of a patrona came in just now, into
+the place where I am, and moving the heavy bed, disappeared
+down a trap-door under it to get up a little
+clean linen from her hiding-place, where she conceals
+things from the French. She also produced a guerilla
+soldier’s shirt, which he had left to be washed, and
+called for to-day. She was very much frightened
+at us yesterday, as all here are, but is more sociable
+to-day.</p>
+
+<p>We have turned about three hundred mules and
+horses into the meadows here, and have cut down two
+or three fields for the feeding at night, instead of the
+green oats or barley, for that is scarce here. How
+would you like all this in England? The peas and
+beans also are pretty well pillaged by our soldiers, and
+frequently the cattle get in besides. I do not pity the
+Spaniards for this; but as they are obstinate, they will
+not pick and sell to us officers who ask them, consequently
+the soldiers and our muleteers pick for themselves
+gratis. I do not think the crops here are so forward as
+in England; we are, therefore, luckily for the horses, just
+in the grass season. If we go back to the barren, brown,
+southern plains, it will be rather a disagreeable change.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</span>
+We shall then, however, probably, get corn for the horses,
+which now is very scarce. For the present, adieu.</p>
+
+<p>If the French do not move, probably we may halt
+here to-morrow again; but I doubt we shall proceed.
+Twelve Portuguese field-pieces were following us up
+this horrible road; the French got two guns by the
+same road to Pamplona last year. For the last fortnight
+we have found the people of Navarre very stupid,
+and their language unintelligible. They do not understand
+good Castilian, but have a lingo of their own, very
+barbarous; the little Spanish I have picked up is here,
+therefore, of no use, and I am nearly reduced to the
+state of the deaf and dumb, to have recourse to signs
+and acting.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Irurita, July 7th.</em>—From Lans and
+Arriez we proceeded on the 6th to Berrueta, through
+Almandos, across a part of the Pyrenees. The first
+league was through a fine oak wood, and very hilly;
+the next there was more hill, and, if possible, worse
+roads, and in particular a very long descent. The hills
+were, however, green and wooded to the summits,
+rounded, and not wild or savage, in short it was hilly
+scenery and not mountain—this is the Lower Pyrenees.
+From one part on the Lans road, the sea, I am told, was
+visible. Some Portuguese artillery followed us all the
+way, and have arrived safely.</p>
+
+<p>We then reached Almandos, which contained a few
+very large houses for head-quarters; there the artillery,
+engineers, and Spaniards of head-quarters remained, and
+we descended a zigzag hill, and then ascended to Berrueta.
+I there got a very bad quarter, but staid, in order to be
+at the head-quarter village, to inquire into some complaints
+of public money taken by a Commissary at
+Vittoria. On the night of the 5th I was sent for at
+nine at night from Arriez to Lans by Lord Wellington
+about this business. It is a most horrible road even in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</span>
+the day time, and in my way back alone, I lost myself
+on a boggy common, and did not arrive until nearly one
+o’clock, having for about an hour and a half splattered
+about in a bed of wet clay, up to the horse’s knees at
+times, and having some notion of wolves, &amp;c. This made
+me anxious to be at the head-quarters village, where I
+dined with Lord Wellington, and examined the Commissary
+in General Pakenham’s presence.</p>
+
+<p>Berrueta was a small French post against the Guerillas,
+and the ground was strong; the church and about four
+houses, and a wall near were cut with loop-holes for
+musketry, and a little round bastion built in front with a
+double row of loop-holes commanding the roads, and
+a little tiled roof for one sentry at the top. The house
+had a rough eagle in black drawn upon it, and the inscription
+“Place Napoleon.” The little street or alley
+within the enclosure was called Rue Impériale. In
+spite of this the French, about three thousand strong,
+had the day before been driven from this ground and
+position by about five hundred of the second division,
+and had left us in possession, allowing General Hill
+to go on to this place, Irurita, a good league further,
+where we have now the head-quarters. General Hill
+has proceeded this morning to try and drive the French
+from a position about two leagues and a half further on
+near the French frontier at Maya, where they have
+made a semblance at least, with about eight thousand
+men, as if they meant to defend the pass there.</p>
+
+<p>The road from Berrueta to Irurita was over one long
+hill of a league, but good enough, and then brought us
+down to this place at one extremity of the valley of
+Bastan. This valley is a very rich tract, surrounded by
+cultivated hills, well built and peopled, and terminated
+on the other extremity by the pass of Maya.</p>
+
+<p>General Hill has moved on his head-quarters from
+hence to Elisondo, full a half league further, near the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</span>
+centre of the valley; and if the French give way, is
+to proceed further. Lord Wellington and all his suite
+are gone on forwards to watch the event. This place
+contains a number of large houses, but is in general
+dirty and bad in the interior. Lord Wellington’s house,
+and that of Marshal Beresford, and a few others about
+here, are in the French style, with glass windows in
+folding doors, and French blinds, &amp;c., and they are clean
+and comfortable; at Elisondo, there is more of this,
+I hear. This valley has a sort of nobility of its own,
+and most of the numerous good houses belong to an
+inferior nobility. They almost all sport arms, and most
+the chequers. I understand this valley is also famous
+for the number of men of talent who have at different
+times issued from it. There is also trade in the valley,
+and commercial connexions even with Cadiz. These
+second-rate nobles have had the sense not quite to
+despise that mode of getting money, and thereby all
+other comforts. The effects of the war and of the times
+are, however, equally manifest here, but on a higher
+scale than in the ruined cottage, or the farmer stripped
+of his cattle and corn. Lord Wellington’s patron, whose
+house is now opposite and very handsome, was a native
+of this place, and went as a merchant to South America:
+he was engaged there in trade twenty-six years, and
+then returned to enjoy himself, like our Scotch Indians,
+in his native place. He, however, foolishly bought no
+land, and continues engaged in trade by means of an agent
+at Cadiz, and another at Vera Cruz, living here on the
+profits. One rich vessel we took from him before the
+declaration of war; this shook him a little: since that
+his Vera Cruz agent turned gambler and failed. We
+have taken another vessel of his since, and he thus was
+reduced nearly to his moveables. To supply French
+contributions, and to find the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">à quoi vivre</i> for himself
+and two sons, he has sold all his plate, &amp;c., and jewels.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</span>
+He has now only some tolerable bedding in twelve bedrooms,
+and straw chairs and deal tables. The little
+man, however, told all this to General O’Lalor in my
+presence with much good humour, and did not seem
+very unhappy. He was very anxious to please Lord
+Wellington in his quarter.</p>
+
+<p>Here we see the miseries of the contest in another
+shape. The old mad Marquis d’Almeida left this to-day
+to go on with General Hill, very anxious to beat the
+French in their own territory, and give them back their
+own again. He has attached himself to General Hill’s
+corps all along.</p>
+
+<p>I believe King Joseph’s gallantry in trying to seduce
+a young girl at Salvatierra, the night of the battle of
+Vittoria, was mentioned in a former letter by me. In
+this valley he performed a most noble feat: after the
+dinner given him by his patron and the neighbours, he
+permitted or ordered his servants to sweep off and carry
+away all the utensils, table-cloths, spoons, &amp;c. The
+Padré at Arriez, our last place, told General Wimpfen
+that he had there carried off the sheets. This is
+a noble exit; and all his suite were without a change of
+linen.</p>
+
+<p>The papers taken at Vittoria make it appear that
+nearly a million of property was taken after the battle—250,000<em>l.</em>
+in gold. Only about one hundred and
+twenty thousand dollars have been paid into the chest.
+Much was certainly plundered by the natives and
+soldiers: the latter were offering nine dollars for a
+guinea, for the sake of carriage. Lord Wellington,
+however, has his suspicions of pillage by the civil departments;
+has heard various stories, also, of money
+taken on the road back from Vittoria. I do not know
+what may come of this: I have made out but little
+satisfactory as yet. One gentleman, however, whom I
+examined yesterday intended to keep two thousand<span class="pagenum" id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</span>
+dollars. At the same time, the understanding that this
+was all fair seems to be pretty general.</p>
+
+<p>Captain Brown was knocked off his horse by a sabre
+cut on the head and taken prisoner, but as he had his
+sword left, he cut down his guard, who was pricking him
+with his sword, and ran into our dragoons and escaped,
+changing his own horse for a French one in the confusion.</p>
+
+<p>Lieutenant-Colonel May had a musket-ball in his belly.
+It passed through his double sash, his waistcoat, and
+pantaloons, and then, by striking the button of his
+drawers, was so deadened as only to give him a swelling
+the size of an egg, and he has been long with us again.
+I dined with him at Arriez the day before yesterday.</p>
+
+<p>In the skirmish on the 5th, at Berrueta, we had about
+twenty wounded. The Spanish peasantry are a fine,
+stout, tall, well-made race of mountaineers, and behaved
+that day with spirit. Several would act with their firearms
+with our light troops, and brought in two prisoners;
+and one set would go on with a picket of six of our
+cavalry, and when told by Major Brotherton that they
+were acting foolishly, as he could not protect or support
+them if the French cavalry turned on him, they said
+they could run as fast as those French horses, and
+would not be caught so. The rulers here have also
+been forward in offering supplies, a good part of which,
+I believe, they were ordered to have collected by the
+French, and by which collection we have profited.</p>
+
+<p>More Portuguese troops and artillery are now passing
+this way. I believe no English artillery has come this
+road. The Portuguese guns are not so wide in the
+wheels, having been made for their own roads, and are
+therefore more adapted to this.</p>
+
+<p><em>Irurita, Head-Quarters, July 9th.</em>—Still here. The
+day before yesterday, the 7th, the French showed fifteen
+thousand men in the Maya pass, two leagues and a-half
+in front, a line of nearly two miles. It took much time<span class="pagenum" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</span>
+to climb the hills to turn this position. About four, we
+got possession of a hill which had that effect; the French
+saw their error, tried three times to recover it, drove
+back our men a little, but it would not do; they just
+now will not stand against us. A battalion of Caçadores
+behaved well, and drove them back once. A close column
+of theirs was opposed on the hill by two columns of ours,
+the 39th; our fellows, when near, shouted and came
+down to the charge, and the French were quickly off.
+It was dark, however, before the pass was abandoned,
+and past eleven before Lord Wellington and his staff
+got home to dinner, as he lost his way for some time
+in the fog, despising guides, &amp;c. Yesterday the French,
+in part, came back to a little village near the pass, and
+stood some time against our light infantry; but the
+third shot of our two guns which were brought to bear,
+sent them scampering off. They little think that we
+have some eighteen field-pieces in this valley.</p>
+
+<p>Yesterday Lord Wellington came in early, and left
+the French in another pass in the last Spanish village.
+They were, I hear, to be driven out to-day unless they
+retired. They had yesterday, however, nearly succeeded
+in surprising some of our men. They appeared in rear
+of our advanced troops, through a pass on our right,
+which communicates with the Roncesvalles pass to St.
+Jean Pied de Port, drove in a small picket, and came,
+about fifty of them, down very nearly to a village in
+which we had much baggage. The peasants said they
+had five hundred men there: they however went back
+again, and one of our serjeants, by himself, caught one
+of the stragglers when the others were gone. Just then
+there was only a small body of cavalry between their
+party and our baggage, and even between them and our
+head-quarters here. This was soon looked to, and a
+Caçadore regiment ordered into the neighbouring village.
+The peasants here continue to behave with great spirit<span class="pagenum" id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</span>
+and activity, and want to enter France to take some revenge.
+They had been told by the French that we were
+ten times worse in regard to plundering, &amp;c., than themselves,
+and so the French are told now. The French
+respect their own people, and do not treat them like the
+Spaniards. In Spain a French encampment was covered
+with all the doors, window-shutters, beams, trees, &amp;c., of
+the Spanish villages near; in France, though in rain, they
+are now seen without any such shelter on the bare ground.</p>
+
+<p>The French peasants in these parts, I hear, are as fine
+men as the Spaniards here, and formidable. If we enter
+France, we must not wander and ride about as we do
+here, nor let our baggage cover leagues in extent. It is
+said that they disposed of four of our soldiers, Portuguese
+I believe, whom they caught stealing cherries. I do not
+think head-quarters will enter France, here at least, but
+enter down towards the sea: this is, however, only my
+speculation. General Byng sent an invitation yesterday
+to dine with him in France. The Spanish troops are in
+France in part also.</p>
+
+<p>The day before yesterday Lord Wellington ordered
+young Fitzclarence to go and bring up two Portuguese
+companies to attack. He went. It was close by; but
+he was highly pleased with the order. When he had
+given his instructions, he saw a cherry-tree, and went up
+to break a bough off, and eat the cherries. When Lord
+Wellington lost his way the other night in the fog
+(returning to head-quarters), Fitzclarence told Lord
+Wellington he was sure the road was so-and-so, as
+they had passed the place where he found the two Portuguese
+companies. “How do you know that?” quoth
+Lord Wellington. “By that cherry-tree, which I was
+up in just afterwards,” was the answer. It amused
+Lord Wellington much; and yesterday he called to him,
+with a very grave face, and desired him to go and get
+some of the cherries, as if it were an important order. I<span class="pagenum" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</span>
+believe we only lost about seventy men killed and
+wounded, Portuguese and all included, on the 7th.</p>
+
+<p>I misinformed you some time since about General
+Jeron, the Commander of the Gallician army. I understand
+he was not named at the suggestion of Wellington;
+there are two opinions about him.</p>
+
+<p>We have had stories against several of the civil departments
+in regard to the plunder. One or two I have
+saved from suspicion by an immediate inquiry and explanation,
+which I stated to Lord Wellington directly.
+It is always best to know the whole openly at once,
+as ten suffer in reputation from reports for one really
+guilty. One Commissary, I believe, will have leave to
+resign.</p>
+
+<p>Yesterday the chimney of the house of Lord Wellington’s
+patron was on fire, from the dressing of Lord
+Wellington’s dinner. I was much afraid that it would
+spread and complete the poor man’s ruin, by destroying
+nearly all he had left. It was with difficulty at last put
+out, when the fire-bell had collected all the town buckets
+full of water, and a wet blanket had been pushed down
+the chimney, which, being half wood, made the event
+very uncertain. I was really glad when it was put out.
+Lord Wellington was out in the rain with his hat off,
+and a silk handkerchief over his head, giving directions,
+as well as your humble servant.</p>
+
+<p>P.S.—<em>Head-Quarters, Zobieta, July 10th.</em>—We arrived
+here this morning, in the direction I expected, about four
+leagues from Irurita, on the road to St. Sebastian, through
+a very pretty wooded valley all the way, the road
+good, and by the river side, with villages every two
+miles. We passed St. Estevan, the largest place, and
+perhaps the only one you will find in any map, except
+Lopez’ provincial ones. Some of the other villages were
+large, containing some thirty or forty good large farm-houses,
+and some mansions. The light division was dispersed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</span>
+on the road, and in one village I found George
+Belson and his artillery. I do not, however, expect to
+hear any more of him for some time, as he is not likely
+to follow us any farther, from what I am told of the
+road.</p>
+
+<p>To-morrow head-quarters move eight or nine leagues
+of mountain track road through Gaygueta to Ernani, in
+parts it is said scarcely passable for a mule; so at least
+Colonel Ponsonby reports, who came last night from
+Ernani. In consequence of this account, civil departments
+and baggage are, if they choose, to stop at Gaygueta,
+which is half way. At Ernani we are on the
+high road to Bayonne from Vittoria. Something is
+now, I believe, going on at St. Sebastian. I understand a
+convent near it was to be attempted to-day or to-morrow,
+preparatory to the grand attempt. The heavy guns are,
+I believe, landed, and are, it is said, at Deba for this
+siege. The garrison is two thousand strong, about sixteen
+hundred of their own, and four hundred from another
+fort near, now blown up. Santona is left with a strong
+garrison, and well supplied, and would be a more difficult
+affair, from what I learn. Pancorvo was taken by
+O’Donnell and the Spaniards: they took an outwork by
+storm, and the men then surrendered.</p>
+
+<p>Pamplona is more closely invested by means of some
+redoubts, and I believe nothing more will be done there.
+These redoubts will be of use, if this undertaking is left
+to the Spaniards. Though we have thus to-day gone
+away from France, I conclude we, or rather some of the
+army, are to be within France soon, as Lord Wellington
+has published some long and good general orders on the
+subject of well treating the people, &amp;c., and not copying
+the French in Portugal and Spain, as we are at war with
+Bonaparte, and not with the inhabitants, and that <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">recevos</i>
+are to be given for supplies, &amp;c. Still I think we shall
+only keep on the frontiers. Clausel, it would appear from<span class="pagenum" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</span>
+the Spanish authorities, has, since we left him, made off
+for France by the great Tacca pass in Arragon, instead
+of joining Suchet, as I supposed, and Suchet was at Tortosa
+when last heard of. Zobieta is but a miserable place,
+and the people quite unintelligible. We shall soon be in
+Biscay again.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Ernani, July 16th, 1813.</em>—My last
+was from Zobieta, a little village in the lower Pyrenees.
+Our next day was a tremendous journey to this place.
+I started at six o’clock in the morning, and we immediately
+began to ascend near the bed of the stream, which
+ran by Zobieta towards its source, in order to cross the
+mountain at the back of the town, which divides that
+valley from the one in which the river is situated, which
+runs down by this place to St. Sebastian.</p>
+
+<p>In less than half a mile the road became choked with
+baggage. There was only one path winding zigzag up
+the hill, and every mule whose load got more on one side,
+or out of order, discomposed and stopped the string. I
+had one mule lightly loaded, and my man, foolishly eager
+to get forwards, led it up straight from one path to the
+cross one above, instead of following the track. He got
+on safely, but this tempted three of Colonel Dundas’s
+mules to do the same. Just as I passed below, the hinder
+one fell backwards, with a heavy load, and the whole
+three being tied together, he pulled both the others down
+upon him, and they all lay in a heap at my feet kicking
+in the path. With some difficulty I got an ass out of
+the way in time, and scrambled upon foot, leading my
+horse to get away, that I might not be pushed down the
+side of the hill; by this means I also gained ground, and
+by continuing on foot for about two miles of the steepest
+ascent, I got up tolerably quick. Two of General Murray’s
+mules rolled into the river below.</p>
+
+<p>We then continued to the highest point of the mountain,
+whence we were told Bayonne was visible. When<span class="pagenum" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</span>
+we arrived the fog was so thick that we could not see a
+yard, and we went on two leagues more in this mist
+through the clouds, along the top and side of the hill,
+until we got over Gaygueta. Then we had a very bad
+descent of about two miles to that place. Near the
+town we passed General Longa and his suite going to
+meet Lord Wellington, and we found the town full of
+his troops all drawn up to receive the English General.
+They looked very well, fine men, tolerably well dressed
+and equipped; about five thousand in the whole. One
+grenadier company looked very fierce and military.</p>
+
+<p>I here found every quarter occupied, and could hear of
+none; after waiting an hour, I determined to proceed.
+After an ascent of about half a league again, very steep,
+we went along the top of a hill for another half league
+to Eranos; here I found another thousand of Longa’s
+troops, and all the houses occupied. I therefore went
+to a shop where they sold bread and wine, and we got a
+large loaf and some wine, which, with the help of the
+horses, for whose sake I principally stopped to procure
+this feed, we soon finished, and then proceeded refreshed.</p>
+
+<p>Whilst I was thus employed Lord Wellington and his
+staff passed. I was sorry to hear Longa had missed
+him, and that he was much mortified at this, especially
+as his men scarcely knew Lord Wellington and his party,
+and he had almost passed before they irregularly presented
+arms to him. The one thousand men at Eranos
+were more fortunate, for at a hazard I told them, when
+they inquired, that he would pass in about twenty
+minutes, and he actually passed within the half hour.
+I followed in Lord Wellington’s train to this place,
+Ernani, over a road still worse than the last, a mere
+water-channel, with irregular broken steps and slippery
+clay; most of our horses got more or less on their
+haunches. The road ran up and down on the side of a
+thick wooded hill on the banks of the river, near which<span class="pagenum" id="Page_187">[Pg 187]</span>
+we saw two or three works for iron, in which this country
+abounds.</p>
+
+<p>We arrived safely, about four o’clock; very little
+baggage got in that night. All mine came in by seven
+o’clock, except one mule load and man, who stuck,
+knocked up, at a house two miles back. I bought some
+eggs and bacon and went to bed. About eight, next day,
+my stragglers arrived, the mules strained in the shoulder
+and scarcely able to move. Dr. M’Gregor had two mules
+killed down the mountain, and many have suffered as well
+as myself.</p>
+
+<p>The next morning after my arrival at Ernani, I walked
+off to see what was going on at St. Sebastian. Not
+knowing how long we might be here, my horses being
+tired, and having no shoes, I made this survey on foot.
+The road is a wide <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">camina real</i>, a rough sort of pavement,
+but a good road. About half a league distant I saw the
+fort or citadel of St. Sebastian, and the smoke of the
+guns, the noise of which I had heard before. I proceeded
+on by our heavy guns, which were near on the
+road side, passed about four thousand Spanish troops of
+the Gallician army drawn up to receive Lord Wellington,
+and then our reserve park of artillery, with some small
+works around. Here I began to hear the distant whistle
+of the balls, which occasionally got near the road. At
+about a league from Ernani, just at the brow of the
+descent to St. Sebastian, and about half a mile from the
+latter, a barrier of tubs of earth was placed across the
+road and sentries posted, our advanced sentry being at a
+turn of the road a hundred yards forwards. I went to
+the left to take a sketch, and soon heard a musket-ball
+whistle by me, which I took at first for a rocket behind
+me. I thought this an accident, but soon came a second,
+and a third. I then concluded that I was the object, and
+leaving my sketch rather in a hasty unfinished state, I<span class="pagenum" id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</span>
+returned behind the barrels as the last shot came into a
+bush close to me.</p>
+
+<p>Our trenches were open about fifty yards to the right,
+against a convent on the side of the hill, which was full
+of French, and from which almost all the musket-shots
+proceeded. I determined just to peep into them before
+I went off, and having been cautioned how to proceed,
+I looked in: but having had one more shot whistle close
+to me, and passed a bloody hole where a shell had just
+fallen, which had carried away a man’s arm, I walked
+home, to dine at Lord Wellington’s at three o’clock.
+At dinner I met Castanos, Jeron, Alava, Mendizabel,
+and a number of inferior officers, amongst them the
+Major who had been left as a Captain to defend Villa
+Alba de Tormes, when we retreated last year, and who
+held out the time he was ordered to remain, and brought
+off two hundred out of three hundred of his men to Frenada.
+For this he was made a Major, I believe, at Lord
+Wellington’s request. General Alava also introduced an
+officer who came to present to Lord Wellington King
+Joseph’s sword—his dress sword set in steel and diamonds,
+and very handsome. Where taken from, or
+whence obtained, I did not learn. Lord Wellington
+just looked at it as he took his seat at dinner, and telling
+his man to put it by safely somewhere, fell to at the
+soup and said no more.</p>
+
+<p>On the following day the alarm was spread that we
+were all to go back to the mountains the next day by
+the same road. At last, however, orders came out that
+Lord Wellington was going, and that only his immediate
+staff, and those who could be very useful, were to attend
+him. Even General Murray, the Quarter-Master-general,
+the life and soul of the army next to Lord Wellington,
+staid here, not being quite well. He appears to me
+decidedly the second man; and it is thought that without<span class="pagenum" id="Page_189">[Pg 189]</span>
+him, and perhaps Kennedy, the Commissary-in-Chief,
+we could never have done what we have; even
+Lord Wellington would be, in some degree, fettered and
+disabled by a bad Quarter-Master-general and a bad
+Commissary-general.</p>
+
+<p>Not to lose a day, Lord Wellington, the first day he
+was here, rode all about St. Sebastian to examine it in all
+directions, &amp;c., and was provoked at the Spaniards parading
+for him, when his object was to be unobserved.
+The second day he went to Irun, on the frontiers, on the
+Bidassoa, to see how things were going on there. The
+day before yesterday, having waited till eight o’clock
+(morning), just to receive the “<cite>Gazette</cite>,” with his battle
+despatches and his appointment of Field Marshal, away
+he went, nine leagues over the mountains, for St. Estevan.
+He is going to see more of the mountain passes that way,
+and says that he shall be back the fourth day, if possible,
+though many think it impossible.</p>
+
+<p>We have heard of Lord Wellington eating some trout
+at Gaygueta at twelve, and arriving at St. Estevan at
+five, the day he left this. All baggage nearly is left
+here. The day he went I was occupied all day, by his
+desire, in examining some gentlemen on a report which
+had got about concerning some of the captured money,
+which report Lord Wellington had been caught by, and
+had suspicions. I hope I have sent a very satisfactory
+explanation. To me it is so, at least. I sent it off by
+express the same night to General Pakenham, who is
+with Lord Wellington on his tour. One idle day, since
+I have been here, I went to see Passages, about five
+miles distant, but an infamous road. There are two
+towns of that name, the Spanish and French, as they are
+called; one on each side of a narrow deep stream, or
+inlet from the sea, which forms rather a picturesque basin
+within. I should have thought more of it had I not
+seen Exmouth, Dartmouth, and some other western<span class="pagenum" id="Page_190">[Pg 190]</span>
+English scenery of the same land first, which I think
+superior. The towns were built with the same kind of
+narrow alleys, only fit for a horse to pass through; these
+standing up the side of the hills. They were, however,
+a better description of houses, and four stories high, with
+balconies. The scene was more enlivened than usual by
+our transports, by the landing of biscuit, rum, shot, ammunition,
+the twenty-four pounders from Sir George
+Collier’s ship, and other great guns, with their apparatus,
+for the siege; two Portuguese regiments at work, and
+about three hundred mules, besides the oxen, &amp;c., for the
+guns: gabions and fascines were making in every direction
+by the Portuguese. The road was so narrow and
+slippery in one place, that my horse, as I led him, nearly
+slipped into the sea.</p>
+
+<p>Yesterday, having a few hours again to spare, I went
+round to look at St. Sebastian by the right, where I witnessed
+a sharp conflict, and saw more than I had done
+before, with much less risk. I was out of the way of
+the musketry, and only had one cannon-shot, which
+went over the intended mark from the town, and,
+whistling along, dashed into the water just under me.
+It was nearly spent, as I heard it, I think, long enough
+to have got out of the way had it come up higher. If
+it clears up to-day, I mean to go to the lighthouse, on
+the left of the town, or the cliff, where it is said the view
+is very fine, and where, with a glass, you see much and
+in safety.</p>
+
+<p>There was almost as much firing yesterday as in a
+battle, cannon-shot and musketry, particularly on the
+French part, and many shells; and we made a feint to
+obtain the convent with only a few men, yet I hear
+that only four were killed on our side, and about ten
+wounded.</p>
+
+<p>The convent is almost in ruins, but we have in vain
+tried to burn it with hot shot, and the French continue<span class="pagenum" id="Page_191">[Pg 191]</span>
+to pepper from it. A shell of ours fell amongst their
+men in a redoubt in rear of the convent, and they ran.
+I believe this led to our attempt, but it was soon found
+that they were strong just behind, and several men still
+in the convent; and three new parties were pushed
+along the causeway from the town—about two hundred
+and fifty men—to strengthen the convent party. Ours,
+therefore, were off very quickly, not being supported.
+One shell of ours fell just into one of the three new
+parties, and killed one man and dispersed the rest.
+Several wounded French were seen carried back over the
+causeway and bridge. The number of cannon in the
+town is very considerable; and though our works proceed
+fast, the town is considered formidable.</p>
+
+<p>I have heard more stories of King Joseph from the
+Paymaster of his head-quarters, Mr. Frayre, who was
+taken. He said that the King was in the town until our
+dragoons were close upon it. He then rode quietly
+along, through the train of carriages and baggage, with
+Jourdan and his guard in a walk, in order not to give
+any alarm, until he was out of the bustle. He then
+changed his coat for a nankeen jacket, and away they all
+went, galloping off for Salvatierra, on the road to Pamplona.
+In the first village, a mile or two from Vittoria,
+there are two turnings, and he was heard to call out,
+“<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Par où faut-il aller?</i>” “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Tout droit, tout droit</i>,” said
+Jourdan, and away they went again as hard as they
+could go. Of the twenty-seven Generals who met in the
+house at Salvatierra, a great proportion were slightly
+wounded, and their greetings at seeing each other alive
+were very loud and sincere. Joseph’s servant had a sort
+of saddle-bag with him for the King, and that was all
+their baggage.</p>
+
+<p>I hear that there are two millions of dollars on the
+road. Just now we are without anything in our military
+chest to pay for our daily food and expenses, which<span class="pagenum" id="Page_192">[Pg 192]</span>
+are very great. Corn for our horses, we got none.
+Bread is not dear here, or scarce, as yet. Bullocks, I
+hear, we have bought enough for nearly forty days for
+the army, in this part of the country, mostly from the
+mountains. Nine hundred head have been bought within
+these ten days.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Lezaca, July 18th, 1813.</em>—On the
+16th I went up to the lighthouse in the evening. I met
+Baron Constans coming down. The French did him the
+honour of a cannon-shot, a proof they were touchy. I
+proceeded within half musket-shot, but at a trot, and
+they left me quiet. I stayed an hour on the hill; view
+beautiful, evening clear, scene very interesting. I saw
+all the French sentries, troops, inhabitants, &amp;c., in the
+town, and on the island near, in the convent, redoubt,
+&amp;c. I could see our advanced sentinels and pickets,
+and those of the French near the convent, within sixty
+yards of each other in some places, behind ruins, &amp;c. I
+could also see a long extent of French coast, and many
+other objects. The ruined convent, and the French
+sticking to it in several parts and firing, was, however, the
+most curious and novel.</p>
+
+<p>I came down at seven and rode home quietly by nine
+in the dark; when, lo! I found an order for head-quarters,
+baggage, &amp;c., to join Lord Wellington at this
+place on the mountains, on the frontiers, six leagues of
+bad road distant.</p>
+
+<p>I was off, however, by eight yesterday morning, baggage
+and all. The first two leagues were by the high
+French road, the <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">camina real</i>, through Astigarraja and
+Oyarzun. At the end of the last town we turned from
+the great road, which is a broad, well-laid road, and has
+been very good, though now broken up a little, and very
+rough. We then went along a paved mountain road, up
+a valley for half a league, and then began climbing a
+mountain path over two long hills until we got into this<span class="pagenum" id="Page_193">[Pg 193]</span>
+valley, and to this place. There is a great sameness in
+the scenery—round hills, wooded in part below and a
+stream—nothing very fine. About a league from hence
+we saw the camp of the 95th regiment, on a hill above
+Vera, which is lower down in this valley, and near the
+immediate frontier division. We also saw the seventh
+division camp near and the French cantonment bivouac
+on the opposite hill; for a short time they kept half Bera
+or Vera; now we have the whole.</p>
+
+<p>We halt here at Lezaca to-day; the Commissariat
+baggage is ordered a league and a half in the rear in case
+of an attack. I believe when reinforcements arrive we
+shall make one. I was sorry to leave St. Sebastian, for
+an attack was to be made that morning. We heard and
+saw a violent firing throughout all our route, and I last
+night heard that the convent had been taken by our men,
+and some ruins below, &amp;c., and that the new battery had
+been opened. The French stood firm when the Portuguese
+advanced, who behaved very well, but when the
+English regiment which had been ordered up to assist
+was seen advancing, the sight of the red coats made the
+French soldiers run, and the French officers were seen in
+vain beating and pelting them to make them stand.
+The causeway (as I had seen) below was cut by the French
+in two places. This stopped our men for a time, and the
+French attempted to return, but did not succeed; thus
+matters stood last night. Some of the first division
+returned from Oyarzun yesterday to help, and we met
+them on the road. The French surprised about one
+hundred of the Spaniards in this place a few days since.
+The noble inhabitants of Saragossa have contrived to open
+one of their gates, when the French were in the town,
+and to let in Mina and his men. The Spaniards now
+have the town. I believe the French still stick to a
+fortified part, and have destroyed the bridge; this comes
+from the English Captain who is with Mina, and employed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_194">[Pg 194]</span>
+in procuring intelligence. A flag of truce was sent in
+to the French, carried by Colonel Gordon, this morning—“<i lang="es" xml:lang="es">Pourquoi?</i>”
+“<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Je ne’en sais rien.</i>” Lezaca is rather a
+good village, and has a running stream in it, which might
+be more used. It was plundered by the French, and now
+contains nothing, no bread even, only some straw; and
+we have now been seven days without corn for the poor
+horses; even grass is here very scarce: we want the
+course of the Bidassoa to keep up our communications
+with Irun, &amp;c. The French now interrupt this—the
+river runs in part through France.</p>
+
+<p>Soult, the great Soult, the Marshal, is said to have
+arrived, and taken the command against the allies: so
+say the country people, &amp;c. To-day it is very hot. A
+report is circulated that the French have attacked us.
+So adieu for the present.</p>
+
+<p><em>July 19th, Lezaca.</em>—No fresh news. I am going to
+ride up a hill, a league off, to the seventh division camp,
+from whence Bayonne and much of France is visible.</p>
+<br>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_4" href="#FNanchor_4" class="label">[4]</a> Mr. Larpent’s opinion on the moral deficiency of the English soldier
+has astonished many; but it should be remembered that he was a non-combatant,
+and his professional practice as Judge-Advocate-general
+brought him more in contact with the <em>delinquents</em> than with the real
+steady soldiers of the army. Let any reader who inclines to think that
+the French can outmarch the more robust English, remember the advance
+of the light division to Talavera under General R. Craufurd, so justly
+eulogized in Napier’s History. An English soldier becomes sulky, careless,
+and insubordinate in a <em>retreat</em>; but let a battle be announced, and spirit
+and discipline reappear together. Witness the conduct of Sir John Moore’s
+army, when he offered battle at Lugo, and afterwards when he was attacked
+at Corunna.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+</div>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_195">[Pg 195]</span></p>
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="fs80" style="margin-left: 2em; text-indent: -2em;">Movements of the Army—Wellington on the Portuguese—His Personal
+Habits—St. Sebastian—The Siege—Miseries of War—Wounded Officers—The
+Prince of Orange—Vestiges of the Retreat—English Papers—False
+Accounts of the Campaign—Incidents of the War.</p>
+
+<p class="right fs80">
+Head-quarters, Lezaca,<br>
+<span style="padding-right: 2em">July 21, 1813.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="no-indent">
+<span class="smcap">My dear M——</span>,
+</p>
+
+<p><span style="padding-left: 2em">Here</span> we are still, deluged with rain almost
+incessantly, accompanied at times with violent storms
+of wind, hail, and thunder. This is terrible for the
+troops in camp, and for every one more or less, and
+indeed for everything except the Indian corn, which
+thrives here most luxuriantly in consequence of this
+perpetual wet. I took a ride (the 19th) up to the hill
+above the seventh division as I intended; it was a league
+and a half, the latter part very steep. The French were
+in sight all along the hills on the other side of Bera, all
+around one ridge, but quite quiet. When at the summit
+I saw the sea-coast around Bayonne (though not the
+town itself), and the low country in France, for probably
+thirty miles inland, with the enclosed fields and villages.
+It was a very fine prospect; I was only sorry to see that
+the French had apparently so much more productive a
+country immediately in their rear than we had. They
+must now, however, be supplied at the expense of old
+France. We are but ill off here for everything just now,
+until our supplies come regularly to this coast.</p>
+
+<p>Passages is to be the depôt and landing-place, I hear,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_196">[Pg 196]</span>
+for our infantry, and Bilboa for cavalry. Major-general
+Lord Aylmer is to-day setting off to take a command at
+Passages; he expects nearly four thousand men there
+very soon. We still hear the battering guns of St.
+Sebastian continually roaring at a distance; I fear we
+may lose many men in this siege. Good luck, however,
+may do something for us, and the French seem everywhere
+dispirited; sickness, at present, if this weather
+lasts, will be our most destructive foe.</p>
+
+<p>Suchet, I hear, left a garrison at Murviedro, when he
+crossed the Ebro. They seem to have intended to give
+us some tough work until they were ready to return; I
+hope here, at least, that will not be so easy. Both sides
+are now strongly posted, and the assailant must have the
+worst of it. Soult is said to have refused to take the
+command of the army here unless the pay of the troops
+was more regular. Talking of this, Lord Wellington
+paid the highest compliment to Bonaparte, by saying,
+that if he came himself, he should, as he always did,
+reckon his presence equal to a reinforcement of forty
+thousand men, for that it would give a turn to everything.</p>
+
+<p>Lord Wellington, talking of the Portuguese, said
+that it was extraordinary just now, to observe their
+conduct; that no troops could behave better; that they
+never had now a notion of turning; and that nothing
+could equal their forwardness now, and willing, ready tempers.
+I am sorry to say that some of our foreign corps do
+not go on as well. Of the Brunswick corps, ten went off
+from picquet two nights since to the French, and fourteen
+from the camp, and others have gone off also; and some
+have been surprised, so that I believe they are ordered to
+be sent more to the rear, and cannot be trusted. I do
+not wonder at it, as Government have taken men from
+the French prisons, who were only taken last year, and
+who, no doubt, only enlisted on purpose to desert the
+first opportunity.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_197">[Pg 197]</span></p>
+
+<p><em>Lezaca, July 22nd.</em>—To-day Lord Wellington celebrates
+the battle of Salamanca by a great dinner. His
+victories and successes will soon ruin him in wine and
+eating, and if he goes on as he has, he had better keep
+open house at once every day, and his calendar of feasts
+will be as full as the Romish one with red letter days.
+This morning the guns have been thundering salvoes.</p>
+
+<p>I think the breach at St. Sebastian must be ready
+soon. I only hope that we shall not lose many of our
+fine fellows. Pamplona is invested more closely—that is
+all that is attempted. Two sallies have been repulsed;
+there are about fifteen thousand Spaniards there. I was
+sorry to hear that bread was, very lately, in the town at
+the same price as when we were first there, and that a
+low Spanish price; this does not look much like starving
+the garrison out. For a regular siege we have no means,
+and the place is formidable from the very circumstance
+that makes it look otherwise—the citadel is all flat, there
+is nothing to fire at, and no ground to approach it by.
+The scenery all about this lower Pyrenees and coast, is
+like the north coast of Devonshire and Somersetshire, a
+little enlarged as you get inland, and so increasing in size,
+but the same character remaining for a considerable extent,
+only that the valleys become deeper, and the hills higher.
+There is nothing, however, so striking here as the passage
+of the Ebro, and the valley near where we crossed it.</p>
+
+<p>Major D—— has still got his prize here taken on the
+field of battle, namely, a Spanish girl, a pony, the
+wardrobe, monkey, &amp;c., the property of one of King
+Joseph’s aides-de-camp. I am still kept at work. We
+yesterday tried two men for plundering Lord Aylmer’s
+tent in the night whilst he slept.</p>
+
+<p>Out of 500,000<em>l.</em> sterling, the supposed plunder at
+Vittoria, only about 30,000<em>l.</em> has found its way to the
+treasury, or military chest. Lord Wellington seems to
+think the best of Mina, Longa, and the Empecinado;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</span>
+amongst the Spaniards there is much to be done yet,
+to make them like our vagabonds or the Portuguese, in
+regard to fighting; for plundering and the “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">savoir vivre</i>”
+here without money or rations, they beat us both already;
+we cannot improve them.</p>
+
+<p>Castanos, the other day at dinner, asked Lord Wellington
+how Madame Gazan had been treated, as she was
+accustomed to have a considerable number of lovers?
+Lord Wellington looked rather drolly at me, and said,
+she had been treated, he believed, very properly and
+respectfully. Castanos said, “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Elle en serait bien fachée</i>.”</p>
+
+<p>Last week some of the light division had rations of
+wheat in the grain instead of bread. One fellow, who
+was sulky, said, he supposed he should have “long
+forage” next, that is, straw. Another more good
+humouredly said, he was as strong as a horse now since
+yesterday? How so? “Why, they have given me a
+good feed of corn you see, so how could it be otherwise.”
+We had one very ingenious device by two of our fellows
+last week; they were employed to take care of two thousand
+dollars prize, for the benefit of the regiment, and to
+carry it on a mule or ass given to them for that purpose.
+General Cole passed this donkey on a bridge, and being
+irritated from the obstruction caused by the baggage, &amp;c.,
+swore he would upset the whole over the bridge if they
+were not off. When he had passed, one said, “That will
+just do, let’s divide the money, and say the General upset
+it in the river.” This was done, and the report made;
+something, however, was overheard, and this led to an
+inquiry, when one of them admitted that this was the
+case, and that a serjeant shared and proposed the plan. I
+said that they could only be flogged for this. Lord
+Wellington therefore said they might as well be tried in
+their regiment, for three hundred lashes was as good as a
+thousand, and that to publish these things was only to
+put similar ideas into other people’s heads.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_199">[Pg 199]</span></p>
+
+<p><em>Lezaca, Head-Quarters, July 23rd.</em>—Lord Wellington
+and all his party went off at eight this morning for
+St. Sebastian to see how things are going on. He
+intends returning to dinner, a late one, though they all
+have fresh horses on the road. It is feared that his hints
+have not been attended to, and that the breach has been
+made too soon before all other things were ready, so that
+the place of danger is discovered to the enemy in time,
+perhaps, to enable the French, who are ever quick and
+ready on these occasions, to let in some sea, and make a
+wet ditch behind, or to throw up new works, &amp;c. The
+breach may thus, as at Badajoz, become the worst place
+of the whole to attack. It is to be hoped that this is
+only a false alarm; but things do not appear to go on
+well, unless Lord Wellington or General Murray are on
+the spot. Lord Wellington is not so easily roused from
+his bed as he used to be. This is the only change in
+him; and it is said that he has been in part encouraged
+to this by having such confidence in General Murray. I
+understand he was always naturally fond of his pillow.
+He had rather ride like an express for ten or fifteen
+leagues, than be early and take time to his work. Upon
+the whole this may fatigue him less, as being a less time
+on horseback.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Lezaca, July 25th, 1813.</em>—We have
+now been some time stationary in these mountains, and I
+am at work again, and have little time, and less to write
+about. We have been in hourly and nervous expectation
+of news of the storming of St. Sebastian. It was first to
+have taken place the day before yesterday, but we were not
+quite ready; then at five yesterday morning; but either
+from our shells firing a house near the breach, and the
+French encouraging the flames to spread, or from their
+originally setting fire to that part of the town, there was
+such a considerable fire all around the breach, that it was
+thought too hot to attempt the storming. It was then,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_200">[Pg 200]</span>
+by Lord Wellington’s order, I believe, fixed for this
+morning, and he has been as usual very anxious about the
+event.</p>
+
+<p>He was very fidgety yesterday, when I went to him
+about two poor fellows who are to be hung for robbing
+Lord Aylmer’s tent; and to-day he came out to the
+churchyard, where we were listening, about eight o’clock,
+to judge from the noise of the guns whether our batteries
+had ceased, and what the firing was. He has been once
+over himself, but appeared to wish to leave it to Graham,
+and not directly to interfere. At eleven this morning,
+however, Colonel Burgh came over with an account of
+our attempt having failed; that our party (consisting of
+English, too, and I believe of the 9th and 38th) went up
+to the breach, then turned, and ran away. This will
+terribly discourage our men who have to go next, and
+encourage the enemy. Lord Wellington has ordered his
+horse, and is going over immediately.</p>
+
+<p>Nothing can be done, however, before the evening or
+to-morrow morning, as the attack must take place within
+two hours before or after low water, in order to pass the
+sands for the breach. I am told the latter is wide and
+easy, and we cannot tell what possessed our men on this
+occasion. The object, St. Sebastian, is most important
+for the army; first, to enable us to keep our ground here,
+as an <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">appui</i> to the left flank, and secondly, as a safe place
+for stores, sick and wounded, where, in case of retreat,
+they may be all left to be brought off at leisure by sea,
+and also as a refuge for Guerillas, &amp;c. A few things are
+now beginning to be brought to us in these wild inhospitable
+regions, but still they are sent from Lisbon by
+land, with the six weeks’ carriage on a mule to pay for.
+If some one would speculate to Passages direct, it would
+fully answer, for Irish butter is 4<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> a pound; sugar, 4<em>s.</em>;
+ham, 3<em>s.</em>; tea, 20<em>s.</em>, the same as that sold at Lisbon for
+8<em>s.</em>: and so on.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_201">[Pg 201]</span></p>
+
+<p>To-day I am going about three miles up the Bidassoa
+river to a posada, in which the artillery of Colonel Ross’s
+troops are quartered, to dine with them. Part of the way
+to their present quarters from St. Estevan they had to
+cut their road with spades and pickaxes for the guns; but
+there they now are safe.</p>
+
+<p>I am sorry to say several of our men (English) desert
+as well as the foreigners. I have just heard that the
+cause of their failure at St. Sebastian this morning was
+partly the same as that of Badajoz formerly—a deep ditch
+behind the breach, and nothing to fill it up with, if indeed
+that were possible; but it is said to have been very deep.
+Our men looked, came back, got for shelter under the wall,
+and were then ordered back, and they ran a little. This
+is a much better account of the business. The attack
+was also too soon, so that the tide prevented one attack
+from being attempted, and it is feared that our artillery
+even fired from that cause on the attackers. The French
+certainly understand sieges better, I think, than we do.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Berrio Planca, in front of Pamplona,
+half a league, July 31st, 1813.</em>—To my great surprise,
+here I am again, and now tell you how and why.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, again at Lezaca, near Bera, in the
+Mountains, August 3rd, 1813.</em>—I had just taken up this
+paper, and headed it as above, to begin my history, when
+a turn of good fortune, arising from the courage of our
+army from the superior manœuvres of our General, have
+in eight days brought head-quarters back to our old
+place, whence the first sheet of this letter was dated. I
+have been too much occupied in this interval almost to
+sit down, much more to write; but I will endeavour to
+detail the important events I have witnessed in them in
+the best order my recollection will permit.</p>
+
+<p>On the 25th July I went over to dine with the artillery.
+About seven I mounted to return home, Colonel
+Ross, Captains Jenkinson and Belson riding with me.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_202">[Pg 202]</span>
+On our way we met a messenger. I asked him to
+whom he was going? He said to Colonel Ross. The
+Colonel was thereupon called back. It turned out to be
+an order to march that night, and rather to the rear.
+There had been a distant firing all day, on the right
+wing near Maya. Lord Wellington was over at St.
+Sebastian. Belson was sent to General Alten with orders
+by Colonel Ross. Jenkinson galloped back to order the
+troops to get ready. Colonel Ross begged me to tell
+General Murray he would endeavour to reach Sambillo
+that night; and giving a receipt for the letter, was off.
+On my return I found Lord Wellington still absent, and
+reports flying about, but no orders. I soon found, however,
+that matters were not going on well, and ordered
+everything to be ready for the march next morning.
+Lord Wellington returned to dinner at eight, and found
+the following account of matters on our right just arrived
+to greet him on his return from the failure of St.
+Sebastian.</p>
+
+<p>The French had collected a force both at the pass of
+Roncesvalles against General Cole, and at the pass of
+Maya against General Hill. In the morning of the
+25th they pushed a strong reconnoissance against General
+Stewart, commanding Hills advance brigade near
+Maya, made a show, but gave way again. This report
+we had heard, and thought all was over. About three,
+however, the French advanced against Cole and Hill.
+About twenty-two thousand against Cole’s force, about
+sixteen thousand against General Stewart’s brigade; the
+force of the latter are scattered on the hills round the
+pass. The French came up in one close body, and
+gradually ascended the hill. Our people fired on them
+the whole time, and the destruction was very considerable.
+Still, however, they gained ground. Twice
+were they charged by a single regiment of ours, and the
+head of the column gave a little, but the press of numbers<span class="pagenum" id="Page_203">[Pg 203]</span>
+urged them on, and as our force was only about three
+thousand men, and that acting only by small bodies of
+regiments or companies, the French drove all before them
+after a most gallant but fatal resistance, before a sufficient
+reinforcement could be brought up. Four Portuguese
+guns were abandoned. Our loss in killed and
+wounded you will see in the “<cite>Gazette</cite>.” It is said to be
+twelve hundred British, almost all in three or four regiments—principally
+the 50th, 92nd, 74th, and 28th. In
+the 92nd, I am told, there was no officer except the
+Quarter-Master in a state to march off the men at parade.
+Colonel Belson (28th) had only four officers left besides
+himself on duty, as he had been thinned at Vittoria. To
+add to this disaster, General Cole thought he was not
+justified in opposing the superior force against him, and
+gave way in the pass of Roncesvalles. This left an
+opening for the enemy to get in the rear of General
+Hill in the valley of Bastan at Elisondo. Of course,
+therefore, he was obliged to fall back also, and the result
+was that Lord Wellington on his return found his right
+wing forced, and his position completely turned. Retreat,
+and that a rapid one, became necessary, in order to take
+a new position, and to fall back on the divisions near
+Pamplona.</p>
+
+<p>After I was in bed on the night of the 25th the order
+came to march, as I expected. Lord Wellington was off
+early straight across to the second division. The light
+divisions fell back from our front; the seventh also
+toward St. Estevan towards the second; the artillery
+proceeded to St. Estevan by Sambillo. Head-quarters
+were sent over the mountains by Yanga and Aranor to a
+little village called Eligarraga, just as you descend into
+the valley of St. Estevan, there to wait for orders.</p>
+
+<p>We had a wild and tedious road of four leagues, up
+and down the mountains like Blue Beard’s procession, in
+which we should now all be adepts. A road ran round<span class="pagenum" id="Page_204">[Pg 204]</span>
+the bottom through Sambillo, but probably it was not
+thought safe, and that it might interfere with the artillery,
+as it was narrow the whole way, and nothing could
+pass.</p>
+
+<p>About two o’clock on the 26th we reached Eligarraga,
+and there found Major Canning sitting by the wayside
+to order on everything three long leagues further
+through Estevan, and then after keeping the road along
+the valley about a league beyond towards the pass into
+the Bastan Valley, near Trinita and Elisondo, we were
+to turn at Oronoz through a pass on the right, which
+brought us into the rear of the valley of Bastan, and into
+the rear of General Hill’s division, to a place called
+Almendoz, on the road to Pamplona from Elisondo,
+General Hill’s head-quarters being half a league in our
+present rear as we retreated, at our old head-quarters,
+Berrueta. In the meantime the seventh and light divisions
+got down into the valley of St. Estevan that night.</p>
+
+<p>At Almendoz we found the effects of the battle at
+Maya. The wounded had just reached that place, and
+there those who had not been dressed, had their wounds
+examined, and all were urged on to the rear over a
+mountain pass to Lanz as fast as possible. The village
+of Almendoz was very small; the wounded lying about
+in all directions, till cars and mules could help them on.
+It was near seven o’clock, and we had nothing to eat
+since seven in the morning; quarters very bad of course,
+and the inhabitants all in the greatest distress, beginning
+to pack up, to desert their houses, as the people in the
+valley of Bastan, at Elisondo, &amp;c., had done already, the
+French having got possession. A retreat is a most distressing
+scene even at the best, and when conducted with
+perfect order as this was.</p>
+
+<p>About nine o’clock that night orders came to march at
+daylight for Ulague, a place about half-way between
+Lanz and Ostiz. After a five o’clock breakfast, away we<span class="pagenum" id="Page_205">[Pg 205]</span>
+went for the mountains again. The road was choked
+with baggage, and artillery, and fugitives, amongst others,
+fourteen or fifteen nuns in their dresses, who were reduced
+by fatigue to beg some rum of us as we passed,
+which unfortunately we had not with us. We got on
+by scrambling along the paths near the road, and arrived
+about twelve. On the 27th we arrived at Lanz. We
+there found General Murray and several officers, all looking
+very serious and gloomy, and orders given for everything
+to be turned off that road to the right, and not to
+go to Ulague, as Cole had been pressed. The firing was
+very sharp, and the French were urging on to that road,
+besides which, by taking to the right we got towards the
+<i lang="es" xml:lang="es">camino real</i>, from Pamplona to Tolosa, and could have
+made for General Graham’s if necessary. We were
+turned through Arayes (where I had been on the advance,
+and by the road where I had lost myself before in the
+night), on through a rich valley and several villages to
+Lissago, or Lisasso.</p>
+
+<p>Here (the 27th) we were placed very snugly, only about
+two leagues and a-half from the Tolosa road, about three
+from Pamplona, and in the midst of the divisions.
+General Cole, with the fourth division, had fallen back on
+Pamplona to some hills near Villa Alba, or Villalba:
+there he joined the third division, General Picton’s, and
+some Spaniards. General Hill fell back to Lanz. From
+Berrueta, the seventh division got a short way over the
+mountains, from St. Estevan to near Lisasso, our head-quarters,
+and thus got near the sixth. The light division
+fell back more towards Goigueta, or Ernani, to communicate
+with Graham and protect the Tolosa road, and
+thus we stood all night.</p>
+
+<p>The scene at Lisasso was dreadful! All the wounded
+from Lanz had just arrived there, in cars, on mules,
+crawling on crutches, and hobbling along: all those with
+wounds in their hands and arms, &amp;c., walking. Finding<span class="pagenum" id="Page_206">[Pg 206]</span>
+that they had orders to stop there, all our quarters, except
+Lord Wellington’s, and about four more houses,
+were given up, and we all dispersed to the villages round.
+You may conceive the scene, both on the road and in the
+village. I thought one of my horses had lost his shoes
+on the road, and desired my servant to ascertain this. A
+soldier walking along, apparently one of the best, said
+that I had not; that he was still, as a farrier, able to see
+that, though he thought he should be some months before
+he could put another shoe on, as he had been shot through
+the back. I went with Colonel and Mrs. Scovell to a
+little village half-way up the hill towards Pamplona; and
+Colonel Scovell and I climbed up to the top of the hill
+to listen and look about until nearly six o’clock, when
+we expected our baggage. The curé of the village and
+three peasants went up with us. We could see beyond
+Pamplona, and beyond the firing, but could not perceive
+the place itself for the smoke. By five o’clock, however,
+we all agreed that it slackened, and receded a little; we
+therefore descended, got a beefsteak, and waited ready for
+orders.</p>
+
+<p>About six that evening the wounded were ordered to
+move on towards Irunzun, on the Vittoria and Tolosa
+roads; but we remained quiet. About seven, a furious
+thunder-storm came on, and caught all our poor wounded
+men on their march: they could not get on to Irunzun,
+but got to Berrio Planca, near Pamplona. Two officers,
+one sick and one wounded in a house half a mile from us,
+heard of this order, left their beds, packed up, and were
+proceeding; but came first to us to inquire. We told
+them that head-quarters were not to move. They then
+went back to bed, keeping a guide in the house all night,
+to start in case of alarm. At nine came an order to
+march to Orcayen, near Pamplona, the next morning.
+Thus passed the 27th.</p>
+
+<p>At five o’clock on the 28th I began to load to proceed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_207">[Pg 207]</span>
+to Orcayen, when Mr. Hook, who takes quarters, came
+back and left word that we were to go to Irunzun instead;
+but the sergeant, by mistake, told us he would call again
+when he had made more inquiry. In consequence of
+this Mrs. Scovell and I staid until past ten before we
+marched. Then, finding every one gone, and the
+baggage of General Hill’s division arrived at Lisasso, we
+started over the mountain. For the first league we were
+quite right; but afterwards, in a wood, got too much to
+the right, and entered a wrong valley: as it was all safe,
+however, to blunder on that side, and the country was
+picturesque, we proceeded on that road, and by this means
+got through to Oscoz, and came into the high Pamplona
+road to Tolosa, about three-quarters of a league from
+Irunzun towards Tolosa, instead of half a league on the
+Pamplona side of Irunzun, which would have been the
+nearest; it was not a league round, and very picturesque.
+We were, therefore, not sorry for the mistake. At
+Irunzun, however, came a difficulty; it was quite crowded
+with wounded; and of head-quarters we could hear
+nothing, nor of our baggage.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving my servant to bring on the baggage if it
+came, we proceeded forwards towards Pamplona, near
+where we heard head-quarters were—somewhere at least
+that way. At Berrio Planca, a place on the <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">camino real</i>,
+we found all our baggage and the nominal head-quarters,
+Every one, however, was absent, and the place full of
+wounded, the effects of the preceding day. I got a room
+in the Prince of Orange’s quarter, as he had sent for his
+bed away that night; but Henry had all my keys.
+About eight I found Henry and went to bed.</p>
+
+<p>The next morning, the 29th, I heard that we had the
+most severe work on the 28th; that the French attacked
+our position on a hill six or seven times, which I believe
+our troops had only occupied a few hours before the
+French came up near Oricain or Orquin. These attacks<span class="pagenum" id="Page_208">[Pg 208]</span>
+were very desperate: and I understand that such a fire
+for a short time was scarcely ever known, for four French
+corps all bore upon one point, and General Pakenham
+told me that he scarcely dared show any of his men.
+These attacks were, however, all unsuccessful, and we
+kept our ground. The French were generally driven
+down with the bayonet, having been suffered to come
+close, and then received with a volley, a cheer, and a
+charge. I hear that some of our officers were once very
+much alarmed for the result. The French remained
+close and steady, and one regiment (I believe the 40th)
+went at them rather loose and straggling. However, at
+the cheer at the last moment the French broke and ran.
+The Portuguese behaved in general most inimitably, the
+4th, 10th, and 12th regiments in particular. The 10th
+did, indeed, once give way, but rallied; and the 4th
+charged twice, I think, on the 27th June, in good
+English style.</p>
+
+<p>Our loss was very severe; that of the French, of
+course, much more so; but as their cavalry carry off the
+wounded to the rear, and they have an hospital corps
+also for that purpose, no one knows their losses; their
+prisoners and deserters say nearly five thousand, Lord
+Wellington’s staff were never so roughly handled. The
+Prince of Orange, who was sent to thank one regiment
+by Lord Wellington, was very much exposed while executing
+this order. His horse was shot under him, and
+he was grazed in the sash. It was near this place that
+General Cole’s aide-de-camp had been killed, and also Brigade-Major
+A——, one of my Deputy Judge-Advocates.
+He was trying to rally a Spanish battalion which was quite
+broken. The Adjutant-general Pakenham had his coat-sleeve
+much torn by a ball. Colonel Waters, A.A.G.C.,
+was shot in the head, through the hat, on the temple, but
+somehow was little hurt. It is thought that the ball
+glanced under the hat, against the head, and passed out<span class="pagenum" id="Page_209">[Pg 209]</span>
+through the hat. He was out again the next day. Lord
+Wellington was near at the time, and told him that his
+head must be like a rock.</p>
+
+<p>Lord Wellington said, I hear, that he had never seen
+the French behave better. He staid and dined at Picton’s
+on the 28th, and few returned to head-quarters. All the
+29th was quiet; both sides employed in burying the
+dead and getting off the wounded. On the 29th also the
+staff and light canteens alone remained at Villalba with
+General Cole; and I was left with scarcely anything
+except wounded men and baggage. All the stores
+were ordered to be unloaded, and all spare mules of the
+head-quarters and of the second and seventh divisions
+likewise. Two troops of Portuguese cavalry were employed
+from daylight to dark, in addition to cars and
+hospital waggons, in carrying off the wounded to Irunzun,
+to be out of the way in case of attack, and on the road to
+the great hospital at Vittoria.</p>
+
+<p>I made myself of some use in assisting the arrangement,
+and as there were not hands to move the men from
+their mules, to get their rations, &amp;c., and then remount
+them to proceed, I asked an artillery officer close by, to
+lend some of his men to assist, which he did directly, and
+everything went on as quick again. I was sure they
+would not stand upon form on such an occasion, and the
+men were standing about waiting for orders; they only
+regretted that they did not know it sooner, for they
+would have given men all day. The scene was a busy
+one. I suppose nearly twelve hundred went through in
+this way; they were provided with rations for two days
+to get on to Echani, mounted and sent off, their ammunition
+having in the meantime been taken from them to
+be better used, for that was getting scarce more than
+once. Some had two, some one ball still in them. Besides
+this, Colonel Campbell, of the Portuguese service,
+who had been wounded, was lying in my ante-room all<span class="pagenum" id="Page_210">[Pg 210]</span>
+day. He was shot through the shinbone, a painful
+wound. He could not get into my room, which of course
+I offered, but he preferred the cool passage. I was at
+breakfast when he arrived. I gave him tea, and some
+newspapers to try and read himself to sleep. A friend
+was with him, a Campbell, who shared my bouillie; he
+ate as good a dinner as I did, but objected to a second
+bottle, upon which I discovered he was also wounded in
+the side, and feared that the end of his rib was broken.</p>
+
+<p>The next morning, the 30th, we were all in suspense,
+as Lord Wellington had determined on a general attack.
+The firing began at daylight. At nine o’clock I determined
+to go and see what was going on, and mounting
+my black, proceeded up for the hills, where the sixth and
+seventh divisions were, on the opposite side of the valley
+from our grand position, where we had been attacked the
+day before. I met many wounded, crawling back all the
+way, and on the top found only the pickets left in the
+camp of the morning, and that the seventh division had
+just driven the French from the adjoining hill, and were
+after them up the valley on the other side. I went on to
+the point of the hill and saw the battle still raging
+strong, just opposite on the hills below, on the other side
+of the valley opposite our position. The French still
+steady and firing very briskly all round the side of one
+hill and in the village below us, and our people creeping
+on by degrees under ridges towards the village and the
+hill, and also advancing round the back of the hill. We
+had two mortars and a gun also upon our position-hill
+constantly at work, playing upon the French, and we saw
+the shells continually fall and burst close to the French
+line, whilst the wounded were carried off to the rear.</p>
+
+<p>This went on for some time, above an hour after I
+came up, and we had men in reserve all round. I then
+saw our men in the village, and immediately under the
+French, and appearing at top also. The French gave<span class="pagenum" id="Page_211">[Pg 211]</span>
+way, but went on firing all over the hill. In half-an-hour,
+I heard the loud huzzas of our soldiers, and saw no
+French left except on the next hills, where they seemed
+very numerous and strong, but in confusion. The first
+huzzas were I believe for a body of about eighteen hundred
+prisoners, who were caught, being headed every way.
+There was soon a shout on our side close by our positions.
+It proved to be Marshal Beresford and Lord Wellington
+proceeding down to the village to water their horses and
+proceed on. I should have wished to have pushed on
+also, but I knew head-quarters would move, and had told
+my people I should return, and not to stir until they saw
+me. I therefore went back to Berrio Planca, found as I
+expected all loaded and on the move to go towards
+Orquin; got a mouthful of mouldy bread in the market,
+and went back again close to our position at Orquin.
+There we got orders to halt loaded, until orders came to
+proceed to Ostiz. We took off our bridles, turned the
+horses into a field of Indian corn, where the French camp
+had been four hours before, and where their dead of the
+28th had been buried. We waited thus, hearing a distant
+firing, until near dark. The reason of this halt, as I
+learned from General O’Donnell, who passed, was that
+D’Erlon had attacked General Hill in the morning, and
+that he had been rather too much in advance, and was in
+some degree obliged to give way; that he had now taken
+a new position, and expected the second attack without
+alarm, as he was to be supported.</p>
+
+<p>About four or five thousand Spaniards moved by us
+whilst we halted and went up that way. I conclude that
+this was part of the support alluded to. General Hill
+was attacked again, and I understand beat Count D’Erlon
+(Drouet) back with great loss. When this had put all
+matters straight again, on that side, at least, we were to
+proceed. At last came orders to advance to Lanz, and
+we moved again. We drew up first, however, on one<span class="pagenum" id="Page_212">[Pg 212]</span>
+side to allow eighteen hundred prisoners to march to the
+rear,—a very pleasant sight. I spoke to several, and
+found all of the 17th regiment, who were numerous, to
+be Italians, principally Genoese. They said that they
+hated the French, but were forced to fight in Spain
+against their inclinations. All the prisoners seemed quite
+tired of Spain, and were as anxious as most of our people
+never to see it again. They said that Soult was more in
+the rear, and did not intend to fight that day, which was
+true, I believe, for he waited for General D’Erlon to get
+up from St. Estevan towards Lanz. General Monceau, I
+believe, commanded.</p>
+
+<p>We were again a second time stopped under some trees,
+for Lord Wellington had ordered the French to be moved
+from their position beyond Ostiz, and driven to the
+vicinity of Lanz; the baggage was halted till the result
+was known. In the villages and on the road, which was
+strewed with pouches, empty knapsacks, and broken
+muskets, we passed several bodies all stripped, and in
+some places could scarcely avoid treading on them, by the
+horse stepping over a leg or an arm. In one place on
+the road was a half-buried Frenchman, which the horse
+had again laid bare. The doctors determined to halt, and
+encamp under some trees; and if my baggage had been
+near me to stop it, I should have bivouacked with them,
+having no tent. As it was, I proceeded, got a wretched
+quarter at Ostiz with Colonel Waters and seven countrymen,
+just come from the mountains, at about nine o’clock,
+got a beefsteak at eleven, and to bed at half-past twelve.</p>
+
+<p>The next day, 31st, orders came to proceed to Lanz,
+and wait further instructions. There we arrived about
+ten o’clock, and I turned my horses into the forage
+remaining in the French camp of the night before, and
+got some collected for the mules. Thus we remained
+loaded until four o’clock without orders. Lord Wellington
+then sent on for fresh horses and his light canteens,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_213">[Pg 213]</span>
+and of our own accord we unloaded to relieve the
+animals, but for a long time durst not unpack. At last,
+General Murray came in, and ordered some dinner; but
+telling us that he had no authority to direct others to do
+the same. We were all to go to our old quarters; but,
+not liking in this state of things to go over to Arriez, my
+old place, where I had lost myself in the night, I got a
+room at Haines’s, and some dinner, hung my baggage
+cover up for a door, and went to sleep on the table to
+avoid the fleas.</p>
+
+<p>The next day, 1st of August, about six o’clock, orders
+were issued to advance to Berrueta, and there to remain,
+waiting orders again. We returned over this mountain
+thus the third time, and got to Berrueta about one
+o’clock. I called at Almendoz in passing, to remind the
+patrona of the house that I had told her we should beat
+the French, near Pamplona, and be back in a week. I
+was so in five days, and found her more miserable than
+before, having been plundered by the French. I gave
+the green Indian corn the French had left to my horse,
+and wished her good-bye. About two o’clock, we heard
+that we had driven the French off the hills above St.
+Estevan, and also through the town, and head-quarters
+were to move on to St. Estevan directly. We did so,
+and got there by five o’clock; the French having been
+driven out between twelve and one. We saw about a
+dozen French, just killed, close to St. Estevan. So we
+go on, you see.</p>
+
+<p>The French being driven in, about two leagues towards
+Lezaca and Echalar, Longa and the Spaniards, and the
+light division, made a long march back that day, the 1st
+of August, towards their own ground above Lezaca, going
+more round, however, towards Echalar. By this, the
+95th fell in with the French at the bridge, where the
+road to Lezaca turns off from that to Echalar, headed
+them, killed and wounded about a hundred, and, without<span class="pagenum" id="Page_214">[Pg 214]</span>
+discovering it, before dark, drove much of their baggage
+up the valley round again towards St. Estevan. By this
+movement, the French being then headed at the Lezaca
+valley, went the Echalar pass and road instead, and in
+confusion; and the baggage walked into the fourth division
+just as they advanced next morning.</p>
+
+<p>Yesterday, the 2nd of August, our orders were to proceed
+again to Lezaca. We started, and got into all the
+baggage of head-quarters (three divisions) eight miles
+extent of loaded mules in a string. There was a halt of
+about four hours, and no one could move. This continued
+until we got near where the baggage had been
+caught, which was the cause of the stoppage. After
+fighting by all the baggage, and leading my horse along
+some very dangerous places, where, if he had slipped,
+he must have fallen down to the river (and four to five
+mules actually did so), I got to the scene of the captured
+baggage, and then went quietly on. For nearly two miles
+there were scattered along the road, papers, old rugs,
+blankets, pack-saddles, old bridles, girths, private letters,
+lint, bandages, one or two hundred empty and broken
+boxes; quantities of intrenching tools, rags, French clothes,
+dead mules, dead soldiers and peasants, farriers’ tools,
+officers’ boots, linen, &amp;c. There were also the boxes of
+M. Le General Baron de St. Pol, and several private
+officers’ baggage; the principal thing taken seemed to be
+the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">ambulance du 2ème division</i>; that is, the field hospital
+of the second division. There were still more things
+worth picking up, and some soldiers digging up three
+live mules out of an old limekiln near the road-side.
+This caused stoppages and confusion.</p>
+
+<p>Just beyond the bridge of Yanza the French were
+crawling off, who were wounded by the 95th the night
+before, and we twice met small parties of prisoners going
+to the rear, abused not a little by the plundered and
+exasperated villagers. The prisoners told me that the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_215">[Pg 215]</span>
+country people about these mountains were “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">diablement
+méchant</i>,” and treated them very ill. The truth was,
+however, that the French began this treatment; for
+though they had behaved well in advancing, they had
+plundered and destroyed considerably in their retreat, and
+much wantonly. I told them they ought never to have
+come and entered Spain, to which they replied, “We
+never wished to do so; it is not our fault.”</p>
+
+<p>About three o’clock, I went round to see what was
+going on, but my horse was tired, and I was not able to
+get up, to see the French driven from the hill above
+Echalar, and also from the hill occupied by the light
+division. In short, all our old position, and a little more,
+was gained last night.</p>
+
+<p>In our advance again, we also saw some of the effects
+of our own retreat. In one place was an ammunition-waggon,
+with six dead mules, which had all rolled down the
+mountain together. I ascertained that it was English
+by sending a muleteer down for some papers in the
+waggon, which turned out to be our printed blank artillery
+returns. I also saw four other wheels and parts of
+carriages, and it is said that we lost a howitzer. Colonel
+Ross’s troop suffered the most in this way. The French
+seemed to have made this advance as a desperate push to
+relieve Pamplona and St. Sebastian. The garrisons of
+both sallied; that of Pamplona was driven back directly,
+as I hear: that of St. Sebastian (as we are told) surprised
+us in the trenches napping, as the heavy guns were all
+embarked for security, and nothing going on, and carried
+off three companies of Portuguese. This, it is to be
+hoped, is exaggerated. Near Elisondo, I hear, we took
+thirty cars of bread and brandy, and some baggage also—a
+day’s bread for two divisions; and many are now
+fighting without it on both sides. There is no delivery
+of bread to-day, even for head-quarters; corn for the
+horses we have had none this week.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_216">[Pg 216]</span></p>
+
+<p>Head-quarters have stray papers to the 19th, which I
+am reading whilst the fighting is going on. One great
+amusement in these papers, to me at least, is the excess
+of lies, the impudence, the abundance of them, and then
+the blunders, and ignorance of what is going on. You
+will be surprised at the contents of this, when you get the
+<cite>Gazette</cite> account, as you will probably long before you
+receive this. I told you that the beaten army would
+return in a month: whether they will muster again this
+year, and attack, depends, in my opinion, upon the fall of
+Pamplona and St. Sebastian, and the northern war.
+Pamplona is starving; at least it is without meat; but I
+still doubt, except that this sudden effort proves it to be
+in danger. It is merely more closely invested by small
+gun redoubts—no battering gun has ever been near it, at
+present only about six thousand Spaniards watch it, and
+I think if they choose they might be off, only much
+harassed by our cavalry.</p>
+
+<p>The charges made by the Life Guards were the most
+ludicrous. They were never near the enemy, until
+beyond Vittoria, as I was before them, and was almost
+run down twice by their anxiety along the road, galloping
+away without occasion. I leaped a ditch once to avoid
+them, not wishing to blow my horse as theirs were, at a
+time when we were on one side of Vittoria and the French
+on the other. They were afterwards ordered on, but
+never came up with the enemy. They could do nothing
+in such a country, with six-foot ditches round the
+enclosures. Very few of the Spaniards have behaved well
+this time. They have been generally in the rear; one
+regiment stood fire well on the 28th, but some ran, and
+in general I hear they have done little. Longa’s people
+tolerably here. There has been sharp work on the
+whole. I should put down the allied losses at six or
+seven thousand, and the French nearly at eighteen thousand,
+provisions and all, that is somehow put <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">hors de<span class="pagenum" id="Page_217">[Pg 217]</span>
+combat</i>. If the Spaniards will not fight, we can scarcely
+stand even this advantage long; we shall be ruined by our
+victories. The French under D’Erlon behaved very well
+to Colonel Fenwick, who was left wounded; no one was
+allowed to go to his house as a quarter, and every
+attention was paid both to him and the surgeon left with
+him. The latter became so popular that the French
+liked to be dressed by him, better than by their own
+surgeons.</p>
+
+<p><em>August 3rd, six o’clock, evening.</em>—The great men are
+all come in; and I am told nothing has been done more
+to-day. The last push over the hills, and out of their
+position has not been made yet. So at least says General
+O’Lalor. I suspect the Prince of Orange will carry home
+these despatches, and I think it but fair now, that he
+should go and see his intended as a conquering hero. He
+certainly promises very well. An old man just returned
+home, is thrashing out his wheat over my head, and has
+been thus employed all the morning, giving me his dust
+as well as his noise.</p>
+
+<p><em>Later, nine o’clock, evening.</em>—Nothing has been done
+to-day; the French remain in their strong ground above
+Bera, a league and a half from this. It was found, I believe,
+necessary to turn it in a regular manner to avoid great
+loss; for though one brigade of red coats yesterday turned
+two French divisions off one high hill, we can scarcely
+expect this to be always the case. I think, therefore, we
+shall remain here some days at least. I have just heard
+an anecdote of General Picton. General Cole on the
+17th ordered General Byng to retire from a post on a hill
+which afterwards formed a part of our good position on
+the 28th. Byng sent to Picton to say what his orders
+were, and added that though very important, he felt he
+was not strong enough to justify his keeping it. Picton
+said to Byng’s aide-de-camp, “No, by G—, he shall not
+give up the hill; I will bring my division up to support<span class="pagenum" id="Page_218">[Pg 218]</span>
+him; but no, your horse is done up, I’ll go myself and
+tell him;” and he ordered the division to follow. This
+saved that hill. Another time, General Cole was by orders
+leaving a hill, when he received fresh orders to occupy it.
+His men found a few stragglers on the top, and the French
+main division half way up; but they gave them such a
+volley and warm reception, that they soon turned back
+and were off.</p>
+
+<p>We were very nearly destroying some of the French
+cavalry, and taking two divisions. Two circumstances prevented
+this. The night we were at Berrueta two of our men
+straggled, and got taken, and they told the French where
+head-quarters were. This made them conclude we were
+strongly posted close by, and they decamped at night instead
+of the morning, as they had intended. Thus several
+hours were gained. The next was, that our light division
+got their orders seven hours later than was expected. Had
+they been that time sooner up, they would have headed
+the French division on their road to Echalar, as well as to
+Lezaca, and from strong ground might have been able to
+drive them back upon the other divisions, and have surrounded
+them. Their cavalry also would have been
+caught on this narrow winding road down by the river,
+where the baggage was destroyed, with a path in the wood
+just on the opposite side, from whence our men might at
+least have picked off the horses if the men chose to run
+away. This was just missed, however, from these causes,
+and remains one of the <em>ifs</em> and <em>ands</em>; it is very provoking,
+for that would have completely crippled them for
+this year.</p>
+
+<p>A Spanish priest told me to-day that all the priests,
+nuns, &amp;c., in Spain, were constantly putting up prayers
+for Lord Wellington, thinking almost everything depended
+upon him individually, as I believe most people
+here really think. They were sorry he was so often
+exposed as he is to fire.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_219">[Pg 219]</span></p>
+
+<p><em>Lezaca, August 4th, 1813.</em>—Nothing is to be done, I
+believe, to-day. Everything <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">in statu quo</i>; the Prince
+goes to-night or to-morrow morning with despatches to
+England, and I shall send this with them.</p>
+
+<p>P.S. It feels, as you may suppose, very strange, after
+the whirl about to Pamplona, and all the scenes I have
+witnessed, to be again quietly drawing charges at Lezaca.
+I have just heard that the French have increased their
+force much in our front above Bera on the hills, but I
+think nothing more will be done immediately on our part
+or on theirs.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_220">[Pg 220]</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="fs80" style="margin-left: 2em; text-indent: -2em;">Rejoicings for the Victory—Sufferings of Cole’s Division—Complaints of
+the French—Statements of a French Prisoner—Decay of Spain—Characteristics
+of Wellington—His Opinion of Bonaparte—Prospects of a
+renewal of the Attack—Exchange of Prisoners—Wellington’s Spanish
+Estate—His opinion of Picton—Disposition of the Army.</p>
+
+<p class="right fs80">
+Head-quarters, Lezaca,<br>
+<span style="padding-right: 2em">August 7, 1813.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="no-indent">
+<span class="smcap">My dear M——</span>,
+</p>
+
+<p><span style="padding-left: 2em">Here</span> we are still, quiet, and <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">in statu quo ante</i> our
+last run to Pamplona. I have sent you a long account
+of all this business with the Prince of Orange’s despatches.</p>
+
+<p>Our cavalry have been moving up, both to St. Estevan,
+and towards Irun. From the former place, however, for
+want of forage they begin to retire again. Much are left
+still round Pamplona, where there is only a Spanish
+infantry force to watch and invest. They have tried in
+vain to burn the corn just under the walls of the town,
+for this partly supplies the garrison. Marshal Beresford
+is gone for a week to the sea side, for bathing; I
+conclude, therefore, that nothing is to be immediately
+undertaken to turn the French out of the remaining hills
+near this place. I should like to have them clear out in
+the plains below, for I expect in about three weeks to
+have them plaguing us again. Something is still in
+agitation for this purpose, but for the present delayed.
+We fired, at St. Sebastian, a salute of twenty-one guns
+for our late victory. The garrison regularly returned two<span class="pagenum" id="Page_221">[Pg 221]</span>
+for every gun fired. They are very well supplied, it is
+said, and are very impudent. I fear that all our former
+breaches will now be quite useless, as they are, probably,
+before this, made the strongest points. Saragossa, or
+Zaragoza (the fort) has surrendered to Mina with about
+forty guns, and, it is said, nearly five hundred men; this
+will be good, if Suchet intends to come that way towards
+us. I think he is now retreating a little, and perhaps
+this late business may make him go back quicker.</p>
+
+<p>Lord Wellington was on his bed yesterday, and could
+scarcely rise from the lumbago; but was in good humour
+and good spirits. His position near Sorauren and
+Oricain, or Orquin, was a near-run thing (this was where
+the last two battles were fought). General Cole was
+there with the fourth division. In the course of his
+retreat, Lord Wellington was falling back on him with
+his staff, saw the importance of the position and galloped
+over the bridge, and up to General Cole, to form his
+division, and take up the position at first sight. Pamplona
+must otherwise have been relieved. The French
+were so close upon Lord Wellington, that a part of his
+staff rather behind could not follow him over the bridge,
+but were cut off by the French, and obliged to find their
+way round. This position was afterwards strengthened
+by the third (Picton’s) division, and the Spaniards, and
+this at least saved the communication with Pamplona. I
+hope we should in any case have beaten the French at
+last, but it must have been further back certainly, and
+probably on the Tolosa road. General Cole’s division has
+had, on the whole, nearly nine days’ constant fighting and
+marching. It is terribly cut up in consequence.</p>
+
+<p>The French vow vengeance against the Spaniards.
+An officer, prisoner here, told me yesterday, that the
+Spaniards had always complained of the French, and
+often with reason; but if they came again as he expected,
+the French were resolved to show them the difference,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_222">[Pg 222]</span>
+and let them have some reason to complain of them in
+earnest. He said, that France had lost nearly four
+hundred thousand men in Spain, in the war, and much
+more than half from sickness and unfair means, assassination,
+and treachery. He said there was not a family in
+France which had not put on mourning for this Spanish
+war, and yet scarcely any of the Spaniards had fought
+them like men. He said the notion the French had was
+that in the general peace which was expected, England
+and France would make arrangements to divide the best
+part of Spain between them, and that we should keep
+Cadiz, Carthagena, and all the useful maritime parts, and
+leave them to the Ebro. He smiled much at my disowning
+any such honest and honourable intentions on
+our part. He told me that the French armies had
+suffered more in their <em>morale</em> here in the last campaign,
+than by their Russian losses, for every Frenchman laid
+the latter disasters entirely to climate, and was satisfied
+he still could conquer a Russian as formerly; but here,
+the troops were fairly beaten, and in general would not
+stand. Only two brigades, he said, behaved really well at
+Vittoria, and Jourdan was sent to Paris under arrest for
+his conduct. As to the money, baggage, &amp;c., they
+behaved much better on the 18th of July.</p>
+
+<p>He also told me that not even an English or Spanish
+officer, in the best of times, had ever been so well treated
+as the French were when they first came here. He
+appeared not at all to feel how much worse this made
+their conduct appear since. This was drawn out by my
+telling him that Bonaparte had contrived now to make
+the French detested, almost by every nation in Europe,
+and that power was all he had to rely upon. The part
+Bernadotte had taken the French officers seem not to
+have known, so much are they kept in the dark about
+every thing. The Frenchman also said, that had it not
+been for the jealousies of the Guerillas, they might, by<span class="pagenum" id="Page_223">[Pg 223]</span>
+acting in concert (which they never would do), have
+sometimes almost annihilated whole French divisions,
+and that the French could scarcely have kept their
+ground some time since; but by local and individual
+jealousies the finest opportunities were lost. He considered
+that the good or bad behaviour of an army all
+depended on their having pay and food; or, on the contrary,
+the want of both; and I believe so much: that he
+rightly considered that the French discipline was the
+best when they had both, but that not being here ever
+the case, plunder was the consequence. “But why come
+here at all?” quoth I. “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">L’Empereur le veut</i>,” was the
+answer, “and we as soldiers have only to obey.” “Try
+and enter France,” said he, “and you will soon see how
+the people feel, and whether your stories of a readiness
+to revolt, and dissatisfaction are true. So far from it,
+that there has been considerable zeal shown every where
+in replacing the Emperor’s Russian losses.” The French
+think there must be war, and therefore the further from
+home the better. We have heard before you, by French
+papers, of the extension of the armistice in the North.
+This is bad for the campaign here.</p>
+
+<p>The English reviewers and others may say what they
+please as to Spain not having been on the decline during
+the last century. It has at least stood still when almost
+every other country in Europe made rapid advances in
+everything. In Spain and Portugal, no town is now, or
+has been lately, on the increase; but several have manifestly
+diminished. The decay of houses is seldom made
+good, even on the same ground, by new ones; I do not
+recollect to have observed, in the whole country, four
+new houses building, notwithstanding the thousands
+destroyed of late; nor does this seem owing to the events
+of the last five years and the present times, for you see
+no houses commenced before that time, and left unfinished,
+at least extremely few. In France, almost<span class="pagenum" id="Page_224">[Pg 224]</span>
+every large place had its new town as in England, only
+in a less degree, and evident marks of new buildings, &amp;c.,
+stopped by the Revolution. In Spain there are no
+appearances of new towns at all, nor of parts of towns,
+or scarcely even of houses, or unfinished buildings
+stopped by the present confusion—some in Vittoria, from
+French excitement I believe, but nothing to speak of.
+The churches are every where on a large and expensive
+scale; a few modern, but in general they are old. The
+Spanish towns have nearly all the appearance of what we
+should take to be decayed manufacturing towns. The
+inhabitants appear to have been asleep as to the rest of
+the world, and not to have made any progress whilst
+others made great advances. This is a sort of decline.
+There can have been little demand for manufactures, for
+the same few chairs and tables seem to have been in use
+these fifty or hundred years. Whitewashing and new
+placing the tiles seem the only repairs of the houses.</p>
+
+<p>Yet, I think many districts seem to have been uncommonly
+happy and comfortable before this war—large
+tight houses, abundance of food, good clothes,
+cleanly habits, a general equality of rank; no rich among
+them at all; no very poor; and no manufactures. Almost
+every man could make what he wanted for his farm, and
+a shoemaker, a tailor, and a farrier, were nearly the only
+tradesmen, except farmers, in work. Occasional pedlars
+supplied the other wants of a people who had but few.
+Such must have been the independent, happy state of
+many large districts away from the influence of the corruptions
+of the large towns, where all the idle, lazy,
+pauper nobility lived: they were alike free from the
+effects of the misgovernment and oppressive conduct of
+their rulers. Other districts certainly were very different,
+and more like the dirty and ill-provided Portuguese.
+In Portugal, the higher classes seem, I think,
+to have been generally better off, and to have enjoyed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_225">[Pg 225]</span>
+themselves more in their quintas, or villas, and the poor
+to have been worse off. There are none of the districts
+in Portugal such as I have described in Spain.</p>
+
+<p>I have just met General Cole, who commanded the
+fourth division; he is quite knocked up. He says that
+his division alone have one hundred and four officers
+killed and wounded.</p>
+
+<p><em>Lezaca, 8th August.</em>—Yesterday I rode up to the hill
+at the point of our position above Bera, from whence you
+see Bayonne. I stood on the top until it was nearly
+dark, and returned down the mountains by moonlight.
+The French fires were very numerous, and were burning
+all over the sides of a tremendous hill, which they still
+occupy opposite to our position. I passed the boundary
+stone, and got half-a-mile into France, to the highest
+summit of the rock, where the outlying picket is. I saw
+the French relieve their pickets, heard their drums as
+plainly as ours, saw the men at work at a redoubt to
+oppose us if we should advance, and, lastly, saw five
+thousand Spaniards come up to occupy the ground in
+the place of our light division, &amp;c., who were ordered to
+go elsewhere. These were O’Donnell’s regiments; they
+were thin in numbers. A brigade, nominally three
+thousand, mustered eighteen hundred, but were well-dressed
+and good-looking men. I only hope they will
+fight—at least that they do not steal as adroitly as
+Longa’s people. We have had the latter near this place,
+and nothing is safe at all from their fingers—from a
+horse or mule down to a bit of biscuit. In my letter
+from Vittoria, I told you that the French as an army
+had escaped, and that we should hear of them again in a
+month. So it proved; and so I think it will be probably
+again, unless the two places surrender to us in a
+few weeks.</p>
+
+<p>This small, dirty place, Lezaca, is a curious scene of
+bustle just now; crowded with Spanish fugitives—the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_226">[Pg 226]</span>
+head-quarters no small body, with all our stragglers and
+those of Longa’s, who are more numerous (he having a
+quarter here now, and looking like an English butcher in
+a handsome hussar dress), with abundance of Spanish and
+Portuguese officers (for both troops are near), as well as
+with English, with wounded and prisoners passing, with
+mules and muleteers innumerable, besides all the country
+people who come here to turn all they have got into
+money. Noises of all sorts; thrashing all going on in
+the rooms up stairs; the corn then made into bread and
+sold in one corner; “<i lang="es" xml:lang="es">aguardente</i>” being cried all about;
+lemonade (that is, dirty water and dark-brown sugar) the
+same; here a large pig being killed in the street, with its
+usual music on such occasions; another near it with a
+straw fire singeing it, and then a number of women cutting
+up and selling pieces of other pigs killed a few hours
+before. Suttlers and natives with their Don Quixote
+wineskins all about, large pigskins, and small ditto, and
+middling ditto, all pouring out wine to our half-boozy,
+weary soldiers; bad apples and pears, gourds for soup,
+sour plums, &amp;c., all offered for sale at the same moment.
+Perpetual quarrels take place about payment for these
+things between the soldiers of the three allied nations and
+the avaricious and unreasonable civilian natives; mostly,
+however, between Spaniards and Spaniards. The animals
+eating green Indian corn almost against every house here
+and in the churchyard, which contains four tents, from
+the want of stables and of quarters. Not the least curious
+or noisy in this confusion, are about fifteen men and
+women with fresh butter 4<em>s.</em> the pound, who are come
+from near St. Andero and beyond it—a stout race dressed
+in a curious, peculiar manner, who contrive to bring
+butter on their heads in baskets for above a fortnight
+together, and sell it at last in a state that I am very glad
+to eat it for breakfast for ten days after it arrives. It
+forms a sort of very mild cream cheese, in fact.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_227">[Pg 227]</span></p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Lezaca, August 9th.</em>—You ask me if
+Lord Wellington has recollected —— with regard? He
+seems to have had a great opinion of him, but scarcely
+has ever mentioned him to me. In truth, I think Lord
+Wellington has an active, busy mind, always looking to
+the future, and is so used to lose a useful man, that as
+soon as gone he seldom thinks more of him. He would
+be always, no doubt, ready to serve any one who had
+been about him, or the friend of a deceased friend, but he
+seems not to think much about you when once out of the
+way. He has too much of everything and everybody
+always in his way, to think much of the absent. He said
+the other day, that he had great advantages now over
+every other General. He could do what others dare not
+attempt; and he got the confidence of all the three allied
+powers, so that what he said or ordered was, right or
+wrong, always thought right. “And it is the same,”
+said he, “with the troops. When I come myself, the
+soldiers think what they have to do the most important,
+since I am there, and that all will depend on their exertions.
+Of course, these are increased in proportion, and
+they will do for me what perhaps no one else can make
+them do.” He said, “he had several of the advantages
+possessed by Bonaparte, in regard to his freedom of action
+and power of risking, without being constantly called to
+account: Bonaparte was quite free from all inquiry, and
+that he himself was in fact very much so. The other advantages
+which Bonaparte possessed, and of which he made
+so much use,” Lord Wellington said, “was his full latitude
+of lying; <em>that</em>, if so disposed,” he said, “he could not do.”</p>
+
+<p>You ask about my health—I think this hole in the
+mountains unwholesome: the place is so full, and without
+drainage; the air heavy and oppressive; it is like Devonshire,
+warm moisture constantly. I long to be on the
+mountains, to get air and braced up. It has rained nearly
+all the last twenty-four hours.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_228">[Pg 228]</span></p>
+
+<p><em>August 10th.</em>—I have just seen Lord Wellington,
+about some more than usually important business: he is
+better, but not well. He has given me an immense
+bundle of English and Spanish papers to peruse and
+examine. The enclosed plan may help you a little to
+understand the <cite>Gazette</cite>, and my letter; remember it is
+only my hasty personal sketch in pen and ink, on no
+scale, and taken from no regular document.</p>
+
+<p><em>11th, Post-day.</em>—I worked very hard all yesterday, and
+could not get through Lord Wellington’s papers. I am
+still at work at the last part of them: a Spanish narrative
+of all the Spanish operations of a Spanish army for a
+month, by their General Copons. It consists of sixty-four
+sides of foolscap in a Spanish hand. There is
+nothing new. Lord Wellington will give a dinner to-morrow,
+in honour of the Prince Regent’s birthday, to all
+the heads of departments, to which I am invited. There
+are reports of the French moving already, but I believe
+all lies as yet. Do not be too sanguine about Suchet.
+He may retire, but will hardly be forced out of the
+country, for there are forty thousand French on that side
+of Spain. The Spanish Government have given Lord
+Wellington a handsome royal estate near Granada; he
+told me this yesterday.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Lezaca, August 13th, 1813.</em>—Here I am,
+and very busy still, and with no events to communicate.
+All is now quiet for the present, as at Frenada, though
+this cannot last long. Having the paper by me, however,
+I determined to place this letter upon the stocks,
+against the next post-day.</p>
+
+<p>Yesterday I dined at Lord Wellington’s, with a party
+of thirty-six, to keep the Prince Regent’s birthday.
+Eight mules had arrived in the morning with prog and
+wines from Bilboa, and we had therefore a good feast,
+and some very good claret of Majoribanks and Paxton.
+The party was very dull, though many grandees were<span class="pagenum" id="Page_229">[Pg 229]</span>
+present—Castanos, O’Donnell, the General of the army
+of the reserve (the best Spaniards I have seen, and now
+on the hill above us, with something like a Commissariat,
+&amp;c.), their aides-de-camp, &amp;c., Generals Cole, Anson,
+Murray, Pakenham, &amp;c. Two bands were in attendance
+those of the Fusiliers and the 7th. Fuento, the Spanish
+Commissary, gave us “God save the King,” and Lord
+Wellington’s favourite, “Ah Marmont, onde va Marmont?”
+but it was very hot and stupid; every one
+here, in fact, is fagged, and half done up. Lord Wellington
+could scarcely rise when he sat down, or sit
+down when he rose, from lumbago, and was in great
+pain, but is much better; all around him looked pale
+and worn. I think, however, we shall be up to another
+brush again soon.</p>
+
+<p>We are soon about to begin again at St. Sebastian;
+but it is to be feared that it will be hard and bloody
+work, unless some piece of good luck should arise in our
+favour.</p>
+
+<p><em>Later.</em>—I have just been to Lord Wellington, with
+the result of my labours, which have amused him much,
+and which he thinks I cannot be correct in, as to facts;
+or if so, the whole, he concurs with me, is most extraordinary.
+He has now got the papers and my statement
+to examine. It is not, in my opinion, the Spanish
+General who was to blame; I must not explain more at
+present; he seemed pleased, and asked me to dinner
+again to-day. We have a stray paper to the 4th, which
+has set us all agog; but I have only heard the news
+concerning Lord Aberdeen, and it does not seem quite
+certain that there is to be an ambassador from England
+to the Congress. The French nation, or rather the
+news through France, is I hear all for peace, and the
+Rhine and the Pyrenees are to be the boundaries, Jerome
+King of Holland, and Joseph King of Italy; this is
+only French rumour.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_230">[Pg 230]</span></p>
+
+<p>I am told that Soult says he will be here the day after
+to-morrow, the 15th, and has two bridges ready near
+Irun, to come on our left; he would only come there,
+for I think we should be able to do something. We are
+well up for an attack there; four hours would put the
+divisions here on that flank, Spaniards, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p><em>The 14th.</em>—We had last night a little firing, but I
+believe it was only the Spaniards. The latter and the
+French fire at each other at every opportunity, and when
+neighbours, are never at peace. Our sentries and the
+French, on the contrary, are within one hundred yards
+of each other, and are relieved regularly without the
+least molestation on either side. This is the way. Unless
+an attack is to be made, what is gained by killing a
+poor sentry? Our new brigade is not yet at Passages,
+although expected for this fortnight. Some reinforcements
+have, however, come up, and the brigade of
+Guards, which were left behind, have, by easy marches
+from Oporto, now joined us—about fifteen hundred out
+of the three thousand who came out at that unlucky
+time last year. The French have also reinforcements,
+and must in honour do something if the two places hold
+out. The French gentleman who came over to us near
+Pamplona fourteen days since, dined at Lord Wellington’s
+yesterday, and talked away. He seems clever, and,
+like every Frenchman, professed to know everything—the
+secret history of everybody and of every event. He
+calls Bonaparte <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">un tigre</i>, &amp;c. I cannot say that I like
+him much, and would not trust him; but I am not
+much afraid of Lord Wellington doing so. Lord Wellington
+told him the following fact, concerning the
+exchange of prisoners in this country. He said that
+Massena once agreed to exchange three hussar officers
+and one hundred and twenty men, rank for rank, and
+when he had got his own three officers and the men,
+sent back only twenty soldiers, and the rest countrymen<span class="pagenum" id="Page_231">[Pg 231]</span>
+and Portuguese militiamen, and three officers of militia
+scarcely embodied. Lord Wellington vowed never to
+trust his honour again, and in every proposal always
+excepts Massena. Indeed he said he was so little inclined
+now from experience to trust any of them, that a short
+time since, when an exchange was proposed, he said,
+“Yes; but first name the officers and men you offer, and
+their regiments, ages, &amp;c., and then I will treat, but I
+will not have Spanish peasants for French soldiers.” To
+this they sent no answer.</p>
+
+<p>Lord Wellington also tells them, that until our
+travellers, civilians, &amp;c., who were detained are released,
+he can never listen to non-combatant pleas. All must
+be exchanged; but he is very liberal. He also said
+Soult once complained that six of our officers had escaped
+from their guard near Oporto, on that retreat, and had
+committed a breach of honour; but that he (Lord Wellington)
+having inquired into it, found they were placed
+in confinement under a guard, and their parole not
+relied upon, and that they had got the better of their
+guard. Lord Wellington, therefore, told the Marshal
+that the parole being abandoned by the imprisonment,
+the point of honour was gone; and that there were two
+ways of prisoners and their guards separating, and that
+he believed the guard had run away from their prisoners,
+not the prisoners from their guard. To this also he had
+no answer.</p>
+
+<p>Lord Wellington also talked of Grant’s case, who
+lately got away from Paris. Lord Wellington had
+advised him not to give his parole in Spain, and had
+provided persons to rescue him in several places on the
+march to France. They offered this to Grant in consequence,
+but the offer was from honour declined, as the
+parole had been given and acted upon. The moment he
+was in France the French placed him under a guard,
+and at Bayonne he got away from them and went to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_232">[Pg 232]</span>
+Paris, remained there nine months, and got to England
+at last. Lord Wellington yesterday was excessively
+stiff and sore, but in high spirits. He seems to have a
+notion that the Continent will make a peace, and leave
+us and the Spaniards in the lurch, and I believe this
+prevents any very forward movements here on his part,
+for the French would then soon come down upon us
+with decidedly superior numbers; and if we had quite
+passed these mountains a hasty retreat back through
+them would not be a very easy or agreeable manœuvre.</p>
+
+<p>I rode last night to Bera or Vera, where our outposts
+are in the valley. The French pickets are in two houses
+on the hills opposite, a few hundred yards up. Several
+of the houses about there are destroyed, gutted, and
+burnt, and most of them deserted. It was only a month
+ago a pretty little town. Longa had also, since we were
+here last, burnt two neat farms on the road, and knocked
+off the parapet of the bridge, and dug a trench across it,
+for the purpose of annoying the French. We have
+headed nearly all the green Indian corn in this valley for
+the horses; it is cut short off, half way, leaving the fruit
+below; and this is said not to do much harm to the corn.
+But then we cannot eat our cake and have it also.
+There will be no dry forage for the animals in autumn
+and winter. The little wheat straw about these valleys
+is nearly all eaten already, and much of the wheat and
+Indian corn itself has been either destroyed or taken by
+the irregularity of the thousand muleteers around us, in
+spite of their being occasionally flogged when caught in
+doing so. The inhabitants will, I fear, be half starved
+in the winter, unless they migrate, which many will, no
+doubt, and we must be supplied from other parts if we
+stay near here. Spain in general will, however, have
+been released from the supply of, nominally, two hundred
+thousand French; and as we drove them away before
+harvest time, most of this will be in the market somewhere,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_233">[Pg 233]</span>
+except what has been destroyed on our immediate
+line of march. Much has been of course trodden down,
+and from the want of forage and corn our horses have
+been obliged to take the ripe wheat and eat it—straw,
+grain, and all—to serve both purposes. This is dangerous
+food, and if drink is given carelessly, often kills the
+animal; but otherwise it answers well.</p>
+
+<p>We understand here that it was not until three days
+after the news of the battle of Vittoria arrived that any
+one durst inform Bonaparte of it. This last battle will
+very probably be almost entirely concealed from him.
+As we are now both <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">in statu quo</i> as to place, this may
+perhaps be managed: though the enemy are about fifteen
+thousand men minus to what they were before the attack
+at Maya began. From intercepted letters we find that,
+in reports even to each other, the French lie considerably,
+or at least misrepresent, for the good of the service, and
+this will present a good opportunity, as Bonaparte is so
+far off.</p>
+
+<p>In this little town, or rather village, there are about
+twelve priests at least, walking about in their shovel hats.
+These hats would astonish the most orthodox bishop’s
+chaplain in England, and our coalheaver’s hat is nothing
+to them. The only fine cloth in the shops here is black,
+you may guess for whose use.</p>
+
+<p>The estate which the Spanish Government has given
+to the Marquis of Wellington is, I understand, a very
+desirable one; and the best proof that it is so, is that it
+was one which the Prince of Peace had given to himself,
+and doubtless he chose the best he could find. It is nominally
+thirty thousand dollars a-year, a castle, I understand,
+and about a league from Granada, in a fine country.<a id="FNanchor_5" href="#Footnote_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a>
+Lord Wellington seems very much pleased with it. He
+says that he hopes the house is a good one, as he should<span class="pagenum" id="Page_234">[Pg 234]</span>
+not like to have to build, and that he hears there is
+hunting, coursing, fishing, and everything near it. There
+was a fine wood, but I fear the Prince of Peace cut most
+of that down. General O’Lalor, who is in a bad state of
+health, is to have the government of Granada, and will
+superintend this estate for Lord Wellington. The latter
+had got the papers concerning it before him when I called
+a few days since, and said, “This relates to the estate
+they have given me.”</p>
+
+<p><em>The 15th.</em>—I have been very ill all night and this
+morning, but am now rather better, and the doctor tells
+me I am saved a fever by this bilious attack. We are
+all most anxious for news from the North, for all must
+depend in the end upon that, at least in a great measure.
+Next to General Frost, I think, our General has done
+the most for the common cause. General Villa Alba, the
+Spanish Inspector of Cavalry, dined at head-quarters to-day.
+He is a queer-looking creature, anything but a
+General in appearance, and much less a cavalry officer.
+I know, however, nothing of his real character. We
+now feel the effects of our work through these valleys;
+for we cannot ride a few miles without the alternate
+smells of dead horses, dead mules, and dead men. Bonaparte’s
+birthday has passed over very quietly, except a
+tremendous triple salvo of all the St. Sebastian’s guns and
+mortars upon our poor fellows in the trenches at daylight.
+The garrison are amazingly pert, from their success
+hitherto; but we have some hopes they will soon want
+water. Adieu.</p>
+
+<p><em>The 16th.</em>—Much the same to-day, the attack continuing
+all night. Cannot think what it is in this
+country that affects us. The thermometer has never in
+the shade, in my room, been beyond 72° in this part of
+Spain. General Sir T. Picton is attacked again with a
+violent bowel complaint, and is fallen to the rear. He
+would be a great loss, for he is one of the best here.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_235">[Pg 235]</span>
+Lord Wellington, the other day, said, “Why, even
+General Picton did so-and-so the other day,” as if surprised
+that he should not have acted quite right.</p>
+
+<p>Our soldiers are quite unaccountable; all is going on
+right, and they are just now quiet and well fed, yet
+desertion, and even of British, to the enemy, was scarcely
+ever more frequent. It was not surprising that one hundred
+and forty of the Chasseurs Britanniques went off
+when we were falling back to Pamplona, and, as they
+thought, probably to Portugal; but that the English
+soldier should desert, is astonishing and unaccountable.
+Three went off from pickets together the other night,
+towards the French, and were all caught, and are to be
+tried. Several must be hung for this. Two new regiments
+have at last arrived. I wish the French would
+come fairly on now, if at all, but every one talks of a
+general peace. Adieu.</p>
+
+<p><em>The 17th.</em>—We have this day a strong French report
+that peace is signed, and that the Pyrenees are to be the
+boundary of France on this side. Nothing said about
+England; but even at this rate, we must be off if this
+prove true. The news you told me of the fifty thousand
+men, under Soult, you will have seen was tolerably correct;
+it was intended he should have been here sooner, to
+prevent the mischief which happened at Vittoria. As
+soon as the report came that we were threatening to cross
+the Ebro he was sent off, but he did not allow sufficiently
+for Lord Wellington’s rapid movements, and was a little
+too late. It is clear, from many circumstances, as Lord
+Wellington says, that he intended to drive us back to the
+Ebro this last push, and that his measures were all taken
+accordingly; his cavalry, which he brought with him,
+and which, as regards the country as far as Pamplona,
+would have been useless, has suffered much from the
+roads, want of shoes, &amp;c., and had no employment except
+that of carrying off the wounded.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_236">[Pg 236]</span></p>
+
+<p>Our army is now nearly as follows: first and fifth divisions,
+Oyarzun and St. Sebastian, under Graham; Jeron,
+with his Spaniards of Gallicia, in their front at Irun;
+Longa between them and this place, with his diminished
+Guerillas; here the fourth division and the light division
+in front, and the Spaniards of O’Donnell the reserve next,
+on the right of the others, in front; then the seventh
+division above Echalar, &amp;c.: then the third and sixth in
+Maya and Roncesvalles Pass, with Spaniards I believe
+also, and General Hill’s second division behind them in
+the valley of Bastan, Elisondo, &amp;c.; six thousand Spaniards
+watching Pamplona, and our cavalry about there
+principally or in the rear of Graham.</p>
+
+<p><em>The 18th, still Lezaca.</em>—O’Donnell is unwell, from the
+wound in his leg, from which thirty splinters have been
+extracted: he is going to the baths. He is the Conde de
+Bispal, commanding the army of Reserve. Jeron is to
+take his command now, and give up the Gallicians; our
+men, however, I am glad to learn, are in general considered
+as very healthy: General Cole told me that his
+division was particularly so, after all their fatigues. The
+army have Lord Wellington to thank principally, even
+for this. Last year the mules per company allowed by
+Government were employed in carrying the heavy iron
+camp-kettles, and our men had no tents; though they
+were allowed them, they could not be carried. This year
+Lord Wellington had light tin kettles made, one for every
+six men, for the mess, to be carried by one of the men,
+each having a small cooking machine of tin besides. This
+plan sets the mules free and disposable, and thus three
+tents have been carried for every company, and allowing
+for absentees, guards, officers’ servants, sentries, &amp;c.; this
+now nearly houses or covers all our men, and contributes
+much to the health of the army. It was entirely an
+arrangement of his own. The Portuguese are still without
+tents, as are the French and the Spaniards.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_237">[Pg 237]</span></p>
+
+<p>The French, however, are very expert at making wood
+huts, with fern for the top and for the bedding, tolerably
+comfortable except in heavy rains. So are now the Portuguese
+indeed, and many of them (as well as our men
+who happen not to have tent room) join two together,
+and giving up their blankets for sleeping on, make a good
+tent of them, which holds two very well, and only consists
+of their two muskets and two blankets; and now,
+since we have obtained so much plunder, generally a good
+sack or piece of carpet at the rough weather side. Orders
+were given before we marched from Granada, by Lord
+Wellington, to have all blankets looped and strengthened
+at the corners, for this purpose, all ready, as an excellent
+defence from the sun, even better than a tent, for it is
+cooler, and a very tolerable one from rain.</p>
+
+<p>I am to dine with General Cole, who is quartered here.
+My people in this house are up all night, making a noise,
+and baking for Longa, and all day the children are
+shaking the dirt from above down upon me.</p>
+<br>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_5" href="#FNanchor_5" class="label">[5]</a> It is situated in the Val de Soto.</p>
+
+</div>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_238">[Pg 238]</span></p>
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XII">CHAPTER XII.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="fs80" style="margin-left: 2em; text-indent: -2em;">Reported renewal of Operations against St. Sebastian—Effects of the War
+on Spain and Portugal—Wellington’s Account of recent Proceedings—Courts-martial—Prisoners
+Shot—Discussions on War between Wellington
+and a French Deserter—The Siege resumed—Work of the
+Heavy Batteries—Trial of General O’Halloran—Volunteers for the
+Storming-parties.</p>
+
+<p class="right fs80">
+Head-quarters, Lezaca,<br>
+<span style="padding-right: 1em">August 21, 1813.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="no-indent">
+<span class="smcap">My dear M——</span>,
+</p>
+
+<p><span style="padding-left: 2em">Several</span> of our Vittoria sick and wounded now
+begin to return and join their regiments. Major Freemantle
+came back just in time for dinner yesterday, and
+amused us with an account of all your madness in
+England about the battle of Vittoria.</p>
+
+<p>General Cole, with whom I told you I was going to
+dine, lives very comfortably. To do this, even in his
+way, he has now travelling with him about ten or twelve
+goats for milk, a cow, and about thirty-six sheep at least,
+with a shepherd, who always march, feed on the road
+side, on the mountains, &amp;c., and encamp with him.
+When you think of this, that wine and everything is to
+be carried about, from salt and pepper and tea-cups to
+saucepans, boilers, dishes, chairs, and tables, on mules,
+you may guess the trouble and expense of a good establishment
+here.</p>
+
+<p>I mentioned to you the iron-works all about this
+country, and their simple construction; they make, however,
+I believe, excellent iron. For this purpose they<span class="pagenum" id="Page_239">[Pg 239]</span>
+mix the ore of this country, which is too brittle, with the
+ore they fetch from near Bilboa, which is rather too
+ductile and soft, and of the two form an excellent compound,
+which used to supply much of the southern part
+of France.</p>
+
+<p>Our great guns are, I am told, to begin pounding
+to-day at St. Sebastian again, but I have not heard them
+yet. The old breach will not do at all; it is, we are told,
+mined and filled with little intended explosions. A
+seventy-four and some frigates are now near. I wish
+they would let the sailors try the sea side when we
+storm. I think they would get in somehow at once into
+the castle.</p>
+
+<p><em>August the 23rd.</em>—I have now a fresh set of Courts in
+every division again, as my last are broken up. One
+Deputy Judge-Advocate sent me, out of curiosity, a
+history of his Court-casualties, &amp;c., nine members out of
+fifteen, and the Judge-Advocate, killed or severely
+wounded, since the 22nd of May, two prosecutors and
+three witnesses, all officers. We are trying to clear as
+we go, and to prevent all arrears, and we hang away to
+prevent desertion. I am told that the French do the
+same and still more, but their people will go home to the
+rear; this is more natural. We are told that ten men
+from each company are gone by orders to the rear also—some
+foolishly say to quell riots, for which purpose ten
+old men would be the most useless possible; but the
+most plausible account is, to drill new conscripts. Some
+deserters say they are sent even to Italy for this; I
+believe just now that they are not prepared to move, and
+will be content to remain quiet. We have alternate
+accounts, of course, of war and peace. To-day two
+women (one French, the other Spanish,) of the French
+prisoners from Vittoria, came in here on their way to join
+the French. Lord Wellington, however, has stopped
+them, and says he will have no more sent over until the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_240">[Pg 240]</span>
+French release about three hundred mothers and wives,
+&amp;c., of the Guerillas, who were carried off by them as
+hostages for the return home of the Guerilla relations, so
+they cry and think this very sad to be put upon the same
+footing as such creatures. One of the ladies asked the
+Adjutant-general whether she had better write to her
+friends openly, to propose an exchange, or in cipher?
+Upon which he thought a cipher lady should not remain
+here, at least long. We now give some flour to Longa’s
+people for bread, and try to make regulars of them.</p>
+
+<p>It is very terrible that our people, muleteers, soldiers,
+&amp;c., do more mischief by far than the French, except
+when the latter do it by way of punishment and revenge;
+at ordinary times their discipline is much better than
+ours. The heads of the Indian corn are now nearly all
+eaten off about here by the cattle, and cut by the soldiers
+to roast, as well as the leaves for our animals. The
+Spaniards, however, in some degree have their revenge;
+we bring a quantity of money into the country in spite
+of our bad pay, and this they fleece us out of in high
+style. They sell everything like Jews, and are naturally
+exorbitant, greedy, and avaricious; this seems the general
+character. So we go on! They cheat our men as much
+as they can, and our men get all they can gratis; upon
+the whole, however, if we remain stationary, we benefit
+the country.</p>
+
+<p>Lord Wellington yesterday said it was stated in his
+letters from Lisbon, that Portugal was miserable without
+us. No money, no markets, nothing doing. I believe
+he was half joking with the Portuguese agent here; but
+he really meant that we were much missed there. The
+muleteers with us are the worst. Their terms were, a
+dollar a-day each mule, and one for a man for every three
+mules, and rations. They have gone on four years, and
+more; they are now, I believe, sixteen months in arrears
+in their pay, having just got one month lately. If paid<span class="pagenum" id="Page_241">[Pg 241]</span>
+up they would make fortunes, and have no pretence to
+behave ill. As it is, they steal, plunder, turn out their
+mules in the corn, &amp;c., and from one of the most orderly
+classes in Spain, are become the least so. There are
+about ten thousand of the mules in this state, and I suppose
+four thousand muleteers. Their pay is almost more
+than the army; and when is it to be paid or how? there
+lies the rub.</p>
+
+<p>The people say that we have brought the plague of
+flies, and I really believe we have increased the swarms
+by the number of dead carcasses, and various kinds of
+filth caused by the density of the population at present.
+We do not bury so regularly as the French, either our
+offal or dead animals, or anything; the Spaniards not at
+all, unless we do it for them. To give you a notion of
+the flies, they eat up all my wafers, if left open, and spot
+my letters all over if left one day on the table.</p>
+
+<p>Nothing can look better than the condition of the
+Portuguese troops. They are cleaner than our men; or
+look so, at least. They are better clothed now by far,
+for they have taken the best care of their clothes; they
+are much gayer, and have an air, and a <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">je ne sais quoi</i>,
+particularly the Caçadores both the officers and private
+men, quite new in a Portuguese. It is curious to observe
+the effects of good direction and example, how soon it
+tells. The French seem to do the same with Italians,
+and with every one; or rather have done so, for I hope
+this may not cease in part at least.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Lezaca, 24th.</em>—Having been writing
+nearly all day yesterday, I took an evening stroll, and
+then went and sat down on the churchyard parapet wall.
+In ten minutes who should come there but Lord Wellington,
+alone. After one turn he came and sat on the
+wall with me, and talked for more than half an hour.
+Amongst other things I said, I hoped that you in England
+would hear Soult’s account of the Maya business<span class="pagenum" id="Page_242">[Pg 242]</span>
+first, as you then would be alarmed, and value the latter
+account by the Prince of Orange as it deserved.</p>
+
+<p>He said, “Why, at one time it was rather alarming,
+certainly, and it was a close-run thing. When I came to
+the bridge of Sorauren, I saw the French on the hills, on
+one side, and it was clear that we could make a stand on
+the other hills in our position on the 28th; but I found
+that we could not keep Sorauren, for it was exposed to
+their fire and not to ours. I determined to take the
+position, but was obliged to write my orders accordingly
+at Sorauren, to be sent back instantly, for had they not
+been dispatched back directly by the way I had come, I
+must have sent four leagues round in a quarter of an
+hour later. I stopped, therefore, to write accordingly,
+people saying to me all the time, ‘The French are
+coming! The French are coming!’ I looked pretty
+sharp after them, however, every now and then, until I
+had completed my orders, and then set off, and I saw
+them just near one end of the village as I went out at the
+other end; and then we took our ground.”</p>
+
+<p>I then observed that the only time I felt a little uneasy
+was, when we were stopped at Lanz, and sent across to
+Lisasso, for all faces seemed very long, and the removal
+of the wounded was very much pressed. This led him to
+explain more; and he said: “Had I been as regularly
+informed of how matters stood on the 26th and 27th as I
+was of what had passed on the 25th, that need not have
+happened; but General Cole never told me exactly how
+far he found it necessary to give way, or let me know by
+what a superior force he was pressed, and that he intended
+giving way, or my arrangements would have been quite
+different; and the French might have been stopped
+sooner than they were. In truth, I suspected that all
+Soult’s plan was merely by manœuvres to get me out of
+the hills, and to relieve one or both of the besieged
+places, as things should turn up and succeed for him;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_243">[Pg 243]</span>
+and I expected him to turn short round towards St.
+Sebastian accordingly. I had then no notion that with
+an army so lately beaten he had serious thoughts, as I
+am now sure he had, of driving us behind the Ebro. The
+consequence was that the second division halted a day and
+a half at Trinita and Berrueta, on the 26th, and till three
+on the 27th; and the seventh division only took a short
+march to St. Estevan, as I was unwilling to lose a bit
+more of the mountains than was absolutely necessary,
+from the probable loss of men in recovering such ground.
+On the night before we marched, or at three in the morning
+of the 26th, I knew all that had passed on the first
+attack, and acted accordingly. Had I been as well
+informed, and had everything been communicated to me
+as punctually on the next evening, the march of several
+divisions would have been different. I should and could
+have pressed them more on the 27th; there would not
+have been the risk and apparent alarm as to head-quarters,
+&amp;c.; and we should probably have stopped the
+French sooner. As it is, however, and as I had men
+who could fight, as the English did when they recovered
+the hill which had been lost, it has all ended very well.”</p>
+
+<p>We then got upon the expedition on the other side of
+the Peninsula; and he explained some of the reasons for
+his instructions there. He was rather stiff with the
+lumbago; but in high spirits. He said that the Spanish
+Generals thought the reason the French beat them was,
+that they had no good cavalry; and that whenever they
+had our cavalry with them, they wanted to fight. This
+was what he was anxious to prevent, “For,” said he
+“our cavalry never gained a battle yet. When the
+infantry have beaten the French, then the cavalry, if
+they can act, make the whole complete, and do wonders;
+but they never yet beat the French themselves.”</p>
+
+<p>Talking on this subject another day, Lord Wellington
+and all the officers present seemed to agree that a cavalry<span class="pagenum" id="Page_244">[Pg 244]</span>
+regiment did not know what real infantry fire was.
+They talk of a sharp carbine fire, which kills ten or
+twenty horses and half as many men; but they could
+not exist ten minutes in a fire to which our infantry
+battalions are at times exposed; they would be annihilated
+if they did not go threes about very quick indeed.
+Even in the infantry at times it was said, that in less
+than half an hour every mounted officer would be dismounted,
+from his own or his horse’s wounds, and
+perhaps not six men in a company out of sixty, would
+remain.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Lezaca, August 25th.</em>—We are as
+quiet here as at Frenada. Desertion is terrible. I think,
+however, Lord Wellington must stop it. We have only
+as yet tried five out of sixteen sent for trial: they are all
+sentenced to death, and all shot! This will, I think, at
+least have a good effect on our new reinforcements. One
+of our officers did an odd thing to stop it; and it
+answered, or has done so hitherto; he called his men
+together and, addressing them, said, “I want no men
+who wish to go to the French, and if any now will
+say they wish to go, I promise to send them in with a
+flag of truce.” No one stirred, nor has any one stirred
+since; but as to the legality of this plan there may be a
+query?</p>
+
+<p>Our great guns have now just begun pounding again at
+St. Sebastian; we are to demolish everything this time;
+but still I fear we shall scarcely get in easily at last.</p>
+
+<p>As to Pamplona, the reports are, that they are now on
+half-rations, and have enough at that rate to last till the
+15th of next month. It is provoking how much they
+have picked up. They have tried to send out another
+batch of inhabitants, but these have been sent in again
+to help eat; a hard fate to be made a mere tool for starvation!
+and I conclude they will not have the best commons
+even Pamplona can afford.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_245">[Pg 245]</span></p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Lezaca, August 28th, 1813.</em>—Here we
+are still quiet, and very busy; and Courts-martial all at
+work. In these hills, however, our Provosts are not the
+most secure; and common precautions will not do against
+men who know they are probably to be shot in a day or
+two. A Court was adjourned till yesterday morning, for
+a witness for the prisoner, and in the night he was off.
+Another man under sentence of death, near Maya, and
+three other deserters just taken as they were going over
+to the French, were put foolishly under the care of a man
+and a lad armed to convoy them a little way. They rose
+on them, took away their arms, and went over with them
+to the French post. I am sorry to say, however, that we
+have still enough to hang.</p>
+
+<p>The French deserter, the talkative Lieutenant-Colonel,
+is here again, and has one great merit—he induces Lord
+Wellington to talk and discuss his old battles, &amp;c., when
+this man was on the other side. Thus from the two
+I pick up a little of the cause of things. Yesterday the
+conversation turned upon the retreat of the last year.
+The Frenchman said that all their officers blamed Soult
+for his conduct after crossing the Tormes; that he was
+in fact nearer Rodrigo than our army, and might and
+ought to have cut us off, if he had pushed on. Lord
+Wellington observed, “I fully expected to find him on
+the high road: and I ordered nothing at all that way in
+consequence on the first day; afterwards, when I found
+he was not there, I took to it.” The French officer
+replied, “From the rain and hazy weather, and bad
+roads, Soult was puzzled and afraid—he did not in the
+least know the English plans. He heard of some troops,
+and did not know whether they were a rear-guard or the
+main army, and so on; but when he found your lordship
+making a stand collected at St. Munos, he said, ‘<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Ah que
+j’avois tort</i>.’” He then tried to pump Lord Wellington,
+and said, “If he had cut you off, perhaps you would<span class="pagenum" id="Page_246">[Pg 246]</span>
+have recrossed the Tormes, and made for the Benevente
+road? but you would have suffered much.” Upon which
+Lord Wellington observed, “No, I certainly should have
+done no such thing: that would have been ruin. But if
+you must know what I should have done, I should have
+done that which many thought I ought to have done as
+it was—I should have fought, and trusted to the bravery
+of my troops to get me out of the scrape.” The Frenchman
+then said, “No one ought to have blamed you for
+not doing that, unless it were absolutely necessary, for
+the French were twenty thousand stronger than you
+were, and their cavalry was then very numerous, and in
+the highest order.”</p>
+
+<p>These conversations give a value to the Frenchman
+which he does not otherwise possess, though a clever
+man. I found Lord Wellington the day before yesterday
+busy with all the Spanish staff and General Murray,
+with a dozen great Spanish drawings and plans of the
+mountains about them; they were comparing our several
+labours together. The Spanish staff draughtsmen have
+a good character. I should like to have been called in,
+but I was only waiting an audience at the other end of
+the room.</p>
+
+<p>Yesterday, Lord Wellington went off on horseback
+over the mountains, for Irun; he then went on to St.
+Sebastian, and was not back here till nearly nine at
+night. They are pounding away at that fortress from
+fifty-one pieces of ordnance, mortars and all; but nothing
+is done yet.</p>
+
+<p><em>The 29th.</em>—No news yet. Still battering away at St.
+Sebastian. We had a ridiculous event here yesterday:
+an enraged bull—belonging, I believe, to the Commissariat—broke
+into the quarters of the Commissary-general,
+Sir Robert Kennedy, and contriving to get to the
+room of the clerks, put all to flight, one this way, the
+other that, in the greatest alarm. All were dispersed in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_247">[Pg 247]</span>
+an instant. After upsetting a few things, the bull retreated
+into the garden, and jumped over the wall, without
+doing any serious mischief. The joke was, that the
+owner had contrived this, on account of nonpayment of
+his demand.</p>
+
+<p>Our fifty-one battering pieces have now been at work
+three days, and have laid open one end of the entire wall
+of the town of St. Sebastian, and to-morrow is talked of
+for the assault. Two days since the garrison made another
+sortie, and carried off a few men; and, upon the
+whole, I think people are not quite satisfied with the
+conduct of the fifth division, who are employed. Ever
+since our retreat and the former sortie, they seem to
+have had in some measure a sort of panic. We have had
+a general Court-martial on Major O’Halloran, for neglect
+on that occasion as field-officer in the trenches; but he
+is acquitted on the ground that the orders he gave were
+correct, but that he was disobeyed. The facts on the
+trial were these:—</p>
+
+<p>A sortie was expected all the night, and peculiar precautions
+were taken accordingly; every fifth man sentry,
+&amp;c., by order of the General. All was quiet until an
+hour after daybreak and more; then a Captain Canvers,
+of the Portuguese service, who has since shot himself,
+seems to have suffered the sentries to enter the trenches,
+and rest on their arms for security, without orders, or
+rather against orders. At a little after six out came the
+French, and another Portuguese captain seems to have
+misunderstood his orders, and did not suffer his sentries
+to fire instantly, thinking that he had no orders to this
+effect; he was made prisoner. In short, the consequence
+was, that about fifty French were in an instant in the
+trenches, when half-a-dozen of our people fired and fell back.
+The Portuguese were mostly in a panic, and they were
+nearly six hundred out of seven hundred then employed.
+They did once attempt to get up the bank and form, but<span class="pagenum" id="Page_248">[Pg 248]</span>
+the sandy ground gave way, and in they went again.
+This increased the confusion, and no exertions of our or
+their officers could rally the men, until they had been
+quite driven out of the trenches, and pursued to the little
+village in ruins under the convent. There Major O’Halloran
+rallied them, and, with a fresh English working-party
+just arrived, drove the French back again to the
+town, but in the meantime many prisoners were made.</p>
+
+<p>Lord Wellington himself, I think, is not pleased with
+the fifth division; and, as some proof of this, has ordered
+three hundred of the first division, one hundred and fifty
+of the light, one hundred and fifty of the fourth, and, I
+believe, one hundred and fifty of the third (of each
+of which one-third are to be of the Portuguese regiments),
+to march to-day to assist in forming the storming-party
+to-morrow. This is a cut at the fifth; and these
+men are all volunteers, and the orders are to send men
+who, by their cool courage and good conduct, will be
+likely to succeed. In a measure the success of this will
+depend on these qualities. The fifth division ought now
+to volunteer, trying first alone, I think.</p>
+
+<p>There was nothing but confusion in the two divisions
+here last night, (the light and fourth,) from the eagerness
+of the officers to volunteer, and the difficulty of determining
+who were to be refused and who allowed to go
+and run their heads into a hole in the wall, full of fire
+and danger! Major Napier was here quite in misery,
+because, though he had volunteered first, Lieutenant-colonel
+Hunt of the 52nd, his superior officer, insisted on
+his right to go. The latter said that Napier had been in
+the breach at Badajoz, and he had a fair claim to go now.
+So it is among the subalterns; ten have volunteered
+where two are to be accepted. Hunt, being Lieutenant-colonel,
+has nothing but honour to look to; as to promotion,
+he is past that. The men say that they don’t know
+what they are to do, but they are ready to go anywhere.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_249">[Pg 249]</span></p>
+
+<p>I fear we shall find the French have run a ditch across
+and a new second wall behind those we have destroyed,
+and that we may have tough work yet. The shells,
+however, which are sent every ten minutes into the
+castle, and shake the dust out of its roof in a fine style,
+must make the place rather too warm to hold just now;
+and I heartily wish it would induce them to give in
+before all the bloodshed begins. They fire now but very
+little. Lord Wellington and every one is gone over to
+St. Sebastian to-day; and having nothing to do, I have
+made up my mind to be off also.</p>
+
+<p><em>August 30th.</em>—I was on the point of setting out when
+I heard that the storming was put off a day; as the
+French are in motion, and making pretence at least to
+relieve St. Sebastian, and as the fourth division marched
+accordingly this morning, and head-quarters may, therefore,
+suddenly be off, I determined to be quiet here,
+especially as I do not feel quite well. Lord Wellington
+came home at nine o’clock, and was off again before eight
+this morning. We remain here much in the dark, of
+course, when he is away. General Murray stays here to
+protect us with the light division in our front.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_250">[Pg 250]</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XIII">CHAPTER XIII.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="fs80" style="margin-left: 2em; text-indent: -2em;">The Author taken Prisoner—Kind Treatment by the French General—Life
+of a Prisoner—Release—Details of the Author’s Captivity—Curious
+Scene at General Pakenham’s—A Basque Squire.</p>
+
+<p class="right fs80">
+Bayonne, September 5, 1813.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="no-indent">
+<span class="smcap">My dear M——</span>,
+</p>
+
+<p><span style="padding-left: 2em">When</span> you told me, some time since, that you
+expected to hear from me from this place, I never expected
+to have realized in this way your prediction. But as the
+French all tell me with a shrug, “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">c’est le sort de la
+guerre, Monsieur</i>,” I must submit to as great a piece of
+ill luck as generally falls to a poor man, “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">dans le meilleur
+des mondes possibles</i>.”</p>
+
+<p>On the evening of the 30th August I was, as I mentioned
+to you in my last, stopped from going over to see
+the storming of St. Sebastian the next morning by the
+general report that the French were in motion; that an
+attack was expected on our line at daylight, to relieve
+that place if possible, and that therefore head-quarters
+would probably move. So it turned out; at six we
+heard that the French had all crossed the Bidassoa, and
+were moving on. The baggage was all ordered half a
+league up the mountain Yangi, there to wait orders either
+to proceed further for security if we were pressed, or to
+return if we repulsed the attack. At seven, Lord Wellington,
+&amp;c., were off. By nine the town was nearly
+cleared, and every one in motion.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_251">[Pg 251]</span></p>
+
+<p>Nothing can be more stupid than thus waiting a whole
+day standing with the mules and baggage, to hear the
+result, without a creature to talk to, and knowing
+nothing that is passing. One of the officers advised me
+to go up the hill just above Lezaca, to observe a little
+what was doing near, assuring me that it was quite safe.
+Just afterwards Major Canning returned from Lord Wellington
+with orders, and said he would show us the way
+to the hill and then go on. I mounted, and set out with
+Mr. Henry, having sent off my baggage. Mr. Booth,
+the principal Commissary of Accounts, Mr. Jesse, his
+assistant, and Captain Hook, the officer who takes all the
+quarters for every one at head-quarters, determined to join
+the party. When we had got a little way Major Canning
+remarked that by going up the first hill we should
+see sooner what was doing, and could then return to
+Lezaca, or stay and proceed as was found advisable, and
+that we should be thus sure of not being cut off from
+Yangi. This we accordingly did. When half up the
+hill we observed two battalions resting under arms quietly
+on the top and having examined them some time with our
+glasses, thought that they were Spanish; but not being
+certain (for they are so alike as scarcely to be known at
+fifty yards distance), we thought it advisable to keep to
+our left, towards the rear of some of our own red-coats,
+whom we saw engaged with the French in a wood further
+on. We did this, and then waited to see whether those
+two battalions advanced and fired or not, to enable us to
+be sure, by their fire, to which party they belonged. As
+they remained at rest, we could not determine this point;
+and as there was much fern and wood, and we were only
+about a short half mile off, we determined, for fear of a
+surprise, to go back, and follow up the mountain Major
+Canning’s road, where we saw our own red-coats. We
+did this, and just before we ascended, ascertained that our
+people were still there; we trusted firmly to their not<span class="pagenum" id="Page_252">[Pg 252]</span>
+giving ground, as the French were already much advanced,
+and this road was the common communication of all our
+army through Lezaca to Oyarzun and San Sebastian.</p>
+
+<p>About half-way up the hill, or mountain, is a wood,
+from whence we got a peep at the two battalions. We
+saw them moving towards the English position, but not
+firing, and Captain Hook remarked that there were several
+red-coats amongst them, so they must be friends; but
+that, however, about a hundred yards further on we should
+be able to ascertain, and if it were not so we must return.</p>
+
+<p>At the end of the hundred yards the woods ceased,
+and the two roads up the mountain joined, when to our
+great astonishment, just as we came one way to the place
+of junction, two French battalions came up the other, and
+we found ourselves within twenty yards of each other;
+Mr. Jesse was still nearer. I heard a cry of <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">qui vive</i>,
+which put an end to all doubt as to who they were; and
+after a sort of short pause and drawback in the head of
+the French column, thinking, I believe, that they were
+the head of an allied column, several moved towards us,
+and two levelled at us. Mr. Jesse, the nearest of us, dismounted,
+and surrendered instantly. The other two
+jumped off their horses, and, as the side of the mountain
+was very steep, and no one could well ride after them,
+they ran down, and the French having incumbrances,
+I believe they escaped. I now think that was the best
+plan I could have adopted. At the moment, however, as
+I was in the road, and nearer to the French than they
+were, I determined to turn about, and try my horse down
+the road again the way we came, thinking it a great
+chance that the only two who levelled, and seemed ready
+to fire, would hit me. They never fired, but some pursued,
+and one or two officers on horseback. I galloped
+down, however, nearly a mile, at the risk of my neck.
+The road then got steeper, and I looked round to see if
+any one was nearly up behind me. I pulled up a little,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_253">[Pg 253]</span>
+as I found they had not reached my servant, who was
+above a hundred yards behind me; but, on turning
+round again to proceed, I saw, in the narrow part of the
+road just before me, where the descent was steep both
+ways, one up and one down, six Frenchmen; two in the
+road, two on each side, all ready with their pieces up to
+their shoulders. Upon this I pulled up and we had a
+parley. On my pulling up, and addressing them in
+French, they seemed in doubt, and spoke some bad
+French. I then looked about me, to see what chance
+remained, but seeing that they all levelled again, and
+cried out “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">prisonnier</i>,” the risk was then too great for the
+remotest chance of escape, so I dismounted, and they
+instantly took down their pieces, and ran up. In a
+moment, my two horses, and cloak, pistols, sword, telescope,
+handkerchief, were all gone.</p>
+
+<p>Having received some money just before, and fearing
+some theft from my Portuguese servants, I had about
+fifteen doubloons about me, as being the most secure
+place. One-half they found instantly, and were so
+pleased that they scarcely searched more, except to take
+my knife, comb, &amp;c. I then told them that I was no
+General, having heard a cry before from the battalion of
+“<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">voilà le Général</i>;” that I was only a civil officer, a non-combatant;
+but that I had some more money, and if
+they would then, when they had got everything from me,
+release me, I would tell them where it was, and give it to
+them. This I did, thinking as they had got so much
+booty, they would perhaps wish to keep it secret, not to
+be called upon to refund any part, and that therefore
+they would not be sorry to say that I had escaped, and
+let me go that I might not have to tell the story.</p>
+
+<p>They promised to do this, so I produced the rest, and
+at the same time contrived to give my watch a twist up
+above my waistcoat, that when they felt for it, they found
+nothing, and by this means I contrived to save that.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_254">[Pg 254]</span></p>
+
+<p>The other speculation did not answer so well, for I believe
+they still took me for a General. They would not
+release me, and I was carried into the battalion, and then
+to General D’Armagnac (I believe), who was behind their
+attacking troops. They were leading me into the fire of
+our own people, when an officer ordered them up on one
+side. I said it would be very hard to get me killed by
+our own fire, and that they had better let me run across,
+and shoot at me themselves. Upon the whole they all
+behaved very civilly, and without any violence. I there
+met Mr. Jesse. I told our story to General D’Armagnac.
+He said we were very unlucky, and seemed good-humoured,
+ordering the captors to give me back two doubloons.
+After telling his aide-de-camp to take us to General
+Clausel, who commanded in chief there, and then to the
+rear, he said he would apply to get us exchanged (as that
+was now the fashion, and not to release civilians gratis)
+for two civil officers, friends of his, in England: and then
+lending me one of his horses to ride back upon, took leave
+of us. The soldiers told me that he had bought my
+horse for a trifle, and thus ended the fate of poor Blackey!</p>
+
+<p>The whole was the work of half an hour. Whilst we
+were in the wood, our people had just given way across
+this road to superior numbers, and had thus left us exposed
+to this misfortune in a place where every one had
+passed in safety all the morning, and so again from an
+hour later all the evening. A little sooner, or a little
+later, we should not have been caught above a league
+within our lines of the morning. Such, however, was
+our fate!</p>
+
+<p>We were then taken to General Clausel, and were instantly
+ordered back to his former head-quarters. There
+was then a great outcry for ammunition, which delayed
+the French some time, and, as they said, saved our last
+position on this hill. I found that they did not, however,
+know the country well, and tried to pump me as to what<span class="pagenum" id="Page_255">[Pg 255]</span>
+was beyond, both as to men and mountains, &amp;c. I
+always pleaded ignorance as a civilian. They had contrived
+to get four small two-pounder field mountain-pieces
+up this difficult ascent, and kept them constantly in use,
+asking me why we, who were so ingenious, did not adopt
+the same practice? I said they had taught us the art of
+war, and I believe they had found their scholars had made
+very rapid progress, so that if these guns were really
+worth the labour, I had no doubt we should soon have
+some, but that such things were not to be found ready-made
+in the mountains, therefore they must wait a little.
+I soon gave up my horse to a wounded man, as they
+abounded on the road, and we descended and crossed the
+Bidassoa by the ford below the bridge, as I found our
+light division were still maintaining their ground near
+the bridge at Bera (or Vera,) and had kept the other side
+of the valley all the time secure.</p>
+
+<p>A tremendous storm then began. We took shelter
+till five o’clock in a hovel, but at last proceeded, the
+storm continuing, up the mountain of La Rhüne, to the
+French position, and head-quarters—those of General
+Clausel. Mons. d’Arnot, an officer belonging to the
+latter, was extremely kind to us. He said our best prospects
+were not to stay and sleep in the hovel, where we
+should be starved and crowded by wounded, &amp;c., but to
+go with him to the General’s hut on the top, where, if
+anything was to be had, we should have it. He also lent
+me a horse part of the way up again. We passed the
+French position to the entrenched camp, where amongst
+a variety of huts of boughs, earth, &amp;c., were three rather
+better than the rest, consisting of a few feather-edged
+boards at top, and earth and fern on the sides and bottom.
+These were for Generals Clausel, Taupin, and D’Armagnac,
+for the attendants, &amp;c. There were only two places where
+it had not rained in considerably, and we were wet
+through, without a change.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_256">[Pg 256]</span></p>
+
+<p>The General’s canteens were unpacked, and the aide-de-camp
+said, “If he returns, you will have some dinner,
+if not, we have some bread.” That and sour wine was
+all our fare for the night, and we laid down in our wet
+clothes on the ground. They first gave us up General
+Clausel’s dry inner chamber, but on a notice coming that
+he was returning, we were removed to the attendants’
+hut. There I passed a sleepless night, our party being
+the two aides-de-camp, a colonel, a major, five of the
+gens-d’armes, or police corps, Henry, the General’s cook,
+a friend, two or three attendants, and about four wounded
+men who staggered in, and lay in the middle. The
+horses were all tied to the boards, out in the storm all
+night, and making a noise against our heads. The
+wounded were groaning; then came an oath from an
+officer against them as cowards, and asking how that
+noise made them any better? At last came a poor creature
+with a violent colic; this last filled us as close as we
+could lie, and constant quarrels ensued between those
+near the doors, or those who came every minute for
+shelter from the storm and rain, and to get help for their
+wounds. The lightning gave us a glimpse of the scene
+every five minutes. Now and then an observation
+escaped as to the rain swelling the Bidassoa, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>At three o’clock the firing began again close to us;
+at four the drum beat to arms, and at six we got a little
+cold meat and bread and wine, after the General’s breakfast,
+and about seven we were marched towards St. Jean
+de Luz with a party of prisoners and deserters. Amongst
+them were several of the Chasseurs Britanniques, who,
+with their red jackets, had, by deserting to the enemy,
+and then advancing with them, contributed to our being
+surprised and taken. We stopped half an hour in the
+wood below, and got a little brandy from the post of the
+gens-d’armes in the rear, and arrived at St. Jean de Luz
+about one o’clock,—three leagues. This was Marshal<span class="pagenum" id="Page_257">[Pg 257]</span>
+Soult’s head-quarters. Thither we went, and merely saw
+him in a crowd. We were then taken to Count Gazan,
+and then to the Commandant of the Police, &amp;c. We
+were quartered at an inn with some gens-d’armes in
+the outer room; got some supper at seven at General
+Gazan’s, to whom I mentioned what had passed at Victoria;
+was allowed to write to head-quarters to let them
+know where we were, and to ask for money, clothes, &amp;c.,
+if we were not exchanged, and we were allowed to stay
+till next day to wait for an answer.</p>
+
+<p>No answer came. It was intended to give us horses
+to carry us to Bayonne the next evening, but all were
+engaged in carrying away wounded men, including some
+troops of cavalry, so we marched on foot about three
+o’clock, five under a guard. We were delayed by the bad
+walking of some deserters, and were then again caught
+the last half league in a most furious thunder-storm,
+which soaked us through in five minutes. At nine, we
+reached this place, three long leagues, and were taken to
+the Nouveau Fort. The Marechal-de-logis gave us a bed
+between us, on the ground, in a room with two midshipmen
+and a sick and wounded officer of the 34th; and
+having got some bread and cheese, we went to bed, with
+a dry shirt which he lent us. I have ever since had
+rheumatism. We occupy a round tower here, and our
+soldier-prisoners are in the court below; the Spaniards
+are above, and some sailors in confinement, as their dress
+would enable them to escape. The two midshipmen were
+exchanged the next day. From Mr. Babou, the banker,
+a most liberal and generous man, we have got money, and
+therefore now go on well. How officers manage who
+have no money I cannot guess. Only three of the numbers
+the banker has given money to have had their bills
+protested, and he says that if it is poverty he shall never
+complain, otherwise he should wish to be paid. If I get<span class="pagenum" id="Page_258">[Pg 258]</span>
+back I have undertaken to speak to Lord Wellington on
+the subject.</p>
+
+<p><em>13th September, Mont de Marsan.</em>—On the 8th I
+received a most kind letter from Lord Wellington in his
+own handwriting, as to an old friend, telling me that he
+authorized me to tell the Duke of Dalmatia he would send
+back for me any one named by him, to be given in
+exchange.<a id="FNanchor_6" href="#Footnote_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> I had just before received a notice to set out
+next day for Verdun. I went with a gens-d’armes instantly
+to the General of Division, Baron d’Huilliers, and to the
+Commandant-general Sol. To them I told my story,
+and showed my letter. They advised me to send my
+letter to the Duke of Dalmatia, and engaged to detain me
+until the answer came back. I also asked to write to the
+Duke myself. The other officers, who had already been
+to Moulins (where General Paget is), wrote also for leave
+to go to a nearer depôt than Verdun, on account of the
+expense they had been put to; they were of the 34th<span class="pagenum" id="Page_259">[Pg 259]</span>
+regiment, and they also were allowed to wait the answer.
+The other five officers of the 60th were dispatched with
+a <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">feuille de route</i> for Verdun. On the 9th, about seven
+o’clock, I went to the play with two Dutch officers of the
+130th regiment, one of whom was with me when at La
+Rhüne in the camp, and had been all along very civil,
+and had called upon us and volunteered going with us to
+the theatre. I did this in order to pass the anxious time
+away till the answer to my letter came. The play I did
+not much enjoy, as you may suppose, though our two
+gens-d’armes were very well behaved, and went into a box
+opposite, leaving us with the officers.</p>
+
+<p>At nine o’clock came an account that my letter was
+arrived. I ran home and eagerly opened it. I found it
+was a very civil answer from Count Gazan, full of good
+wishes, &amp;c., but stating Marshal Soult had never had
+any proposal made to him for my exchange by our
+General, or that it would be done instantly; again assuring
+me that if any such should arrive I should be
+instantly sent back, and that in the mean time orders
+should be given that none of us should for the present
+cross the Garonne.</p>
+
+<p>The next morning (the 10th) came an order to be at
+Mont de Marsan in four days, about seventy miles off,
+the chief town of the department of Landes, and there to
+wait orders. We also got a letter to give to the commandant
+there, to halt the others there, or to bring them
+back if they had passed that depôt. I prepared a letter
+to Lord Wellington, encouraged by his letter to me (I
+had before only written to the Adjutant-general), and
+stated to him how matters stood, thanking him for his
+kindness. This I enclosed in one to Count Gazan, in
+French, and begged him, as a last favour, to forward it
+by a flag of truce through the lines to Lord Wellington.
+I then hastily bought a few necessaries, and engaged with
+the other five officers to be conveyed to this place (Mont<span class="pagenum" id="Page_260">[Pg 260]</span>
+de Marsan) in a large coach with six mules, Henry in
+the driver’s tilt-cart in front. When I went home to
+pay our gens-d’arme, he was most unreasonable and broke
+his agreement; we would not pay him, so he locked us
+in. I said I had the General’s orders to march at one
+o’clock, and called upon him at his peril to release us, and
+to go with us to settle the matter. He would not, but
+released us, and would then take nothing. I then went
+off to General Sol, and told my story. He sent for the
+man in a hurry, but as he did not come instantly, asked
+what we proposed to give. I told him. He said if we
+were willing to pay that sum (which was according to our
+agreement), “Very well, leave it here, and you may set
+out; had you left it to me I should not have made you
+pay nearly so much.” Accordingly at two o’clock we
+started, and got, in four hours and a half, over four
+leagues of the country, or sixteen miles, to a small village
+on the river side, where we dined and slept. Our route
+was through Dax, but we had leave, as that was knee-deep
+in sand, to pass by Orthes.</p>
+
+<p>Next morning (the 11th) at four o’clock, we proceeded
+to Orthes to breakfast, and got there, six leagues, by
+eleven o’clock. There we sat down to a <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">déjeuner à la
+fourchette</i>. We then, at one, started again, and before six
+got to Hugemont, where we dined again, and slept four
+leagues further.</p>
+
+<p>On the 12th, at seven, we set out for this place, through
+the heavy sand in some places, and over a ruinous
+bridge; we did not arrive until twelve. All along the
+road we found everything in a state of the greatest activity
+for the supplies of the army—everything in requisition.
+I longed to have some of the Spaniards with me,
+to teach them what was to be done in this way. The
+love of coffee is much diminished, and the lower classes
+are excluded from it by the high price of that and of
+sugar. Other things are cheap, and we got our dinner,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_261">[Pg 261]</span>
+beds, and all for five francs a-head each night. Our
+mules were very fine, and each had a name, which we
+soon learnt, by the constant dialogues of the old driver
+and his boy, one of the two latter always running by the
+mule’s side, as there were no reins to the other four in
+front.</p>
+
+<p>We met with every attention and civility here, were
+in time to stop the other five officers, and we are now
+all in officers’ billets, the same as the French officers
+themselves, and have received for our days of march the
+same as they do on the march,—a captain three francs, a
+colonel five, a lieutenant two and a half, &amp;c. I am at the
+house of the principal engineer (from Paris) of some
+works going on here, Monsieur de Beaudre. Great improvements
+are nearly completed in this little departmental
+capital: a new wide stone bridge of easy access,
+instead of an old narrow Gothic one, and an open space
+cleared around it; a new Prefect’s palace, with departmental
+offices, &amp;c. A new chapel, new official houses, and
+much private repairs, are in progress: this is very unlike
+Spain. I breakfast alone in my billet on my tea, which
+I have discovered here, as the others have only meat and
+wine. I dine with the rest—and to please them, but
+against my will—at six; we have a good cheap dinner
+at four francs each. The poor officers do not know what
+to do with themselves. I immediately applied to my
+patron for books, and he gave me the range of several.
+After a play or two of Racine’s, and a few of the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Contes
+Moraux</i>, I have attacked La Harpe’s <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Cours de Littérature</i>
+at the Lycée, and am as yet well pleased; I walk as
+much as my rheumatism permits. Thus goes time; but
+I suffer much—I feel as if I had been broken on the
+wheel.</p>
+
+<p>Poor Henry is more bewildered than ever, but flatters
+himself that he shall soon learn French. If he could
+copy the activity around him, he would be wonderfully<span class="pagenum" id="Page_262">[Pg 262]</span>
+improved. We are here full of the <em>Moniteur’s</em> victories,
+and the little check the French appear to have sustained
+latterly under Vandamme, in Bohemia.</p>
+
+<p>Before I go to bed I get my cup of coffee, a small one
+indeed, for my ten sous, at the café, read the news, and
+then retire home. This place is very full, from the
+wounded being in part here; from the exertions making as
+to supplies, for we have two hundred cars here in a day;
+from some artillery drivers being here, and from the constant
+passage of everything to and from the army. The
+Commandant has been particularly obliging. We have a
+mile round the town to walk in, and are never troubled
+by any one.</p>
+
+<p><em>20th September, Mont de Marsan.</em>—Alas, poor Seymour!—[Hiatus.]</p>
+
+<p>On the 21st, at Mont de Marsan, arrived my mules,
+pony, and baggage: no letter. I gave up all prospect
+of exchange, and was stupidly ill and tranquil. The lady
+where I was quartered, was very attentive and good-natured,
+and I had begun my literary course, and had
+made up my mind to my fate. On the 22nd, however,
+at nine, came an order for us all to set out at eleven for
+Bayonne again. We did so, had some little misfortunes,
+overturns, &amp;c., but got to the Chateau Vieux, at Bayonne,
+on the 25th September, and had the honour of being confined
+in the same room where Palafox had been for three
+months, and all the great Spanish prisoners—the Duke
+of Gravina, Prince of Castel Franco, &amp;c. We staid there,
+seven of us, until the 1st, in anxious suspense—the room
+too noisy for reading, and I too ill for it, so we played
+whist, and killed time in that way quietly. At five
+o’clock on the 1st, when at dinner, came an order for
+Mr. Jesse and myself only to set out at six for St. Jean
+de Luz, in the dark. We got a coach at six, the only
+vehicle to be had; and I packed all my baggage, and
+mounting Henry and my Portuguese on the mules, we<span class="pagenum" id="Page_263">[Pg 263]</span>
+arrived all at eleven at night, at the Police at St. Jean
+de Luz. We were sent to an inn for the night, then the
+next morning (the 2nd) taken to Count de Gazan, at ten.
+I found him very civil, had much conversation with him
+for an hour, breakfasted with him, and at twelve we were
+all packed off with an escort for Endaye, to be sent over
+here.</p>
+
+<p>The gens-d’armes took us first to Count Reille, whose
+quarters were half a league on from St. Jean de Luz.
+He sent us on to General Maucale, who was half a league
+further. He gave us a fresh escort, and sent us round
+the end of the lines, down to the water side at Endaye.
+All very civil in every way. At Endaye, about four, we
+were with some danger sent across, mules and all, in a
+little flat-bottomed boat to Fontarabia to the Spanish outpost.
+There also much civility, but much delay. At
+five we got to Irun with a Spanish escort, were taken to
+General Frere, found him at dinner—very civil. I then
+went to General Stopford; he was at dinner. No
+quarters to be had, so I sent my baggage on here, but got
+some dinner. At eight, came on in the rain here: found
+General Graham; very kind. He gave me a bed in his
+quarters, and some tea. Breakfasted here this morning;
+baggage gone to Lezaca; I am to go there in half an
+hour. I have grown very thin, and am in very crazy
+condition, but must get patched up at head-quarters,
+and go to work again. This last month has been like
+a dream. I hear there has been much difficulty about
+my exchange; but it is now over, I am happy to
+say, and Lord Wellington has been very kind. I
+hope to do something for my fellow prisoners when I
+see him.</p>
+
+<p>Count Gazan asked me to get for him the following
+print or caricature to complete a collection he has. Will
+you do your best to find it, and send it out if possible.
+The Count’s description:—</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_264">[Pg 264]</span></p>
+
+<p>“Une caricature qui a paru il y a douze ou quinze ans
+à Londres, au sujet d’un voyage que fit dans cette capitale
+Le Grand Rabbin Juif d’Hollande, dans l’intention
+de reformer la manière de vivre des Juifs de Londres
+dans ce temps là.”</p>
+
+<p>[N.B.—It was not possible to trace or find this print,
+though every inquiry was made.]</p>
+
+<p><em>Oyarzun, in Spain, at the Head-Quarters of General
+Graham, October 4th, 1813.</em>—Once more again at liberty,
+as far as my rheumatic limbs will permit: the will, at
+least, is free, and I hope soon my arms and legs will be so
+likewise.</p>
+
+<p><em>Lezaca, Head-Quarters, October 7th, 1813.</em>—To-day
+I have a little leisure, as every one is engaged out, and a
+grand attack is to be made on the French position to
+drive them quite off that mountain, La Rhüne. It will
+be, I fear, tough work: I dare not go and peep again,
+even if I were well enough, so have taken up this paper.
+Baggage and all for the present remain here, only ready
+to load in case of necessity.</p>
+
+<p>Lord Wellington had much difficulty in procuring my
+exchange, and has been very kind; indeed every one
+here has appeared very much interested in my return,
+and “my French value.” The Commissary-at-War was
+treated here like a prince, to procure me every favour,
+when he went back, by his representations. In short,
+if my pain goes off, I shall not regret my other losses,
+which amount to about 230<em>l.</em>, but shall feel myself a
+very fortunate man upon the whole.</p>
+
+<p>Monsieur Babedac, the banker at Bayonne, is most
+liberal and kind to all the English officers taken. I hear
+a hundred have had money from him; only five bills of
+110<em>l.</em> in the whole have been sent back unpaid; this, I
+hope, Lord Wellington will pay, though the banker said,
+if distress occasioned it, he did not wish it. Nearly all
+my baggage is now collected safely, through the kindness<span class="pagenum" id="Page_265">[Pg 265]</span>
+of friends. I have been, as you may suppose, much
+questioned by Lord Wellington, &amp;c., and many now
+seem to envy me the trip, as it has ended so well.</p>
+
+<p>I will now fill up my former French letter a little
+more freely. On the morning following, the scene at
+the French head-quarters at St. Jean de Luz was very
+curious. First came rumbling back from the attack
+seven brigades, or about forty-two pieces of ordnance,
+with the ammunition-waggons, about a hundred, looking
+very gloomy, almost all drawn by mules, and generally
+in good condition. You will here observe how
+soon the French come about again. Then came the
+pontoon bridge, and, lastly, perpetual strings of cars,
+with the wounded; the poor country people shaking
+their heads and lamenting all this misery, all wishing
+for peace, and all saying that it was their Emperor who
+prevented it, from his unbounded ambition. This was
+the talk of the officers, and of all. They said the Allies,
+if successful, would rise in their demands; that Bonaparte
+was too proud to yield, and peace would only be
+further off than ever. This was the conversation, when
+they heard of the check in the North.</p>
+
+<p>When the account of the first victory of the 25th
+came (which by-the-by was the first information received
+as to the quarrel with Austria), they were all in high
+spirits, and exclaimed—“<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Ah! le pauvre beau Père, il
+sera chassé</i>,” and “Peace from the North will either give
+us peace here also, or enable us to drive you all back to
+Portugal with the reinforcements which we shall obtain.”
+Things changed afterwards, and three weeks after the
+bulletin of the 25th, &amp;c., and only the day before the
+bad bulletin came out, a <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Te Deum</i> had been ordered at
+Bayonne, and a hundred <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">coups de canon</i> for the first
+victory! The people almost laughed at this themselves,
+though very miserable.</p>
+
+<p>At the inn at St. Jean de Luz, where I was billeted<span class="pagenum" id="Page_266">[Pg 266]</span>
+with a gens-d’arme at the door, we were allowed to dine
+with the officers, who were all returning starved from the
+lines to get a belly full. I here met with men of a
+superior description, Colonels of the Guards, Chief Medical
+Officers, Post-Masters, Commissaries, &amp;c. They
+were civil, some of them gentleman-like and free in their
+conversation, much irritated at having been beaten by
+the Spaniards, which, with a tirade about numbers, they
+admitted to be the fact. Monsieur D’Arnot, a young
+man attached to General Clausel, and a young Dutch
+officer, gay, tall, and handsome, were the most attentive
+to us, and without any object, which most of the others
+had in view, to get a wife back, or a lost portmanteau,
+their letters, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>The people all told us that had we been quite prepared
+to advance into France at first, Bayonne was open, and
+without guns, dismantled; that we might have walked
+in and gone on to Bordeaux. I believe much of this,
+but not entirely, and our men were nearly as much
+harassed as the French. The French troops in the first
+confusion behaved very ill, and plundered the inhabitants,
+throwing away their arms, and absolutely flying. Marshal
+Soult’s orders on this subject were stronger even
+than Lord Wellington’s were here. The inhabitants
+generally said that they would remain quiet if the English
+came alone, and would leave the armies to settle it,
+for all they wanted was peace; but as they knew how
+the Portuguese and Spaniards had been treated, and what
+they might therefore expect in return, they must all fly
+if the Allies came with us.</p>
+
+<p>Count Gazan is elderly, and I believe quite sick of his
+trade; he said he wanted peace, and to go to his villa at
+Nice for life after twenty years’ war. He gave me an
+invitation there. In general all the officers and men
+were attentive and civil; some looked sulky, but most
+noticed us by touching the cap, which is more than we<span class="pagenum" id="Page_267">[Pg 267]</span>
+do by them here. In a dispute which Captain S——
+had with a stupid old fool, the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Commandant de la Place</i>
+at Bayonne, General Sol, the French officers present
+seeing that the General was in the wrong (as he afterwards
+admitted), all bowed to Captain S——, and the
+General’s own sentinel carried arms to him as he went
+out. This is flattering. The curiosity is very great
+about Lord Wellington, as one of the great men of the
+age.</p>
+
+<p>From the questions put to me when taken, about the
+grand position, and on the way to St. Sebastian, I am
+sure that the French had a very imperfect notion of the
+exact state of that part of the mountains. My being
+a civilian was my excuse for giving them no information.
+Their loss in getting back again would have been greatly
+increased, had they got on to the next hill. As it was,
+from the river swelling, and the men not being able
+to cross the ford at which I passed, but being obliged to
+go round by Vera bridge, which was under our fire, the
+loss was very severe. Had I not been put across early I
+should have had that fire to pass through with them.</p>
+
+<p>The country all the way to Bordeaux is barren and
+unproductive; mostly sandy heath with vines, and a few
+meadows near the stream. I saw no corn, only the
+Indian corn, and that much less luxuriant than here, and
+with very little head of green for forage. The consequence
+is, the French provisions and forage come from
+an immense distance, and the supplies are very difficult
+to procure; the exertions, however, are in proportion,
+and very unlike those in Spain of the Spaniards. Everything,
+for two hundred miles and more round, is in
+requisition, all the corn taken, and only <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">bons</i> given in
+return; wine the same; hay the same; every merchant’s
+car in the town, and all the country cars with oxen at
+work for the public. The districts off the roads send in
+to the depôts on the high roads; and from thence the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_268">[Pg 268]</span>
+corn, &amp;c., is forwarded to the army, to the depôts at
+Bayonne, &amp;c. The hay for the staff horses and cavalry
+comes, as Gazan told me himself, one hundred leagues,
+that is, nearly three or four hundred miles, from above
+Toulouse, &amp;c., partly by water, but much by land. The
+people now feel for the first time what it is to supply
+their own army in their own country, and the grievance
+is no small one.</p>
+
+<p>The army have had a half month’s pay; twenty
+months are due. The prospect of payment of the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">bons</i>
+for the supplies is very remote indeed, and yet though
+they all grumble they act with zeal and spirit, and I still
+think, with the feelings of Frenchmen, would all unite
+against invasion. In spite of all this, things in general
+are still comparatively cheap; dear to Frenchmen, as
+they say exorbitant—to us reasonable, except colonial
+produce: bread about 4 sous a pound, or 2<em>d.</em> English;
+and good meat about 8<em>d.</em> English retailed; vegetables
+and fruit very cheap; wine equally so; oats and hay
+tolerably cheap; even as I fed my animals (three) at the
+inns for the day for about 12 or 14 livres travelling,
+three feeds of corn—small ones, to each—about 6 livres,
+or, as I generally gave them, 8 livres. Hay about 6 or 7
+livres and good—cheaper when I bought the articles at
+Mont de Marsan. A good dinner at the inns, with a
+bottle of light wine, about 5<em>s.</em> each. This sometimes also
+covered the beds where we slept. Tea only to be had by
+ounces at a time as medicine; coffee, very dear; sugar
+(brown), from 4<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> to 6<em>s.</em>; white sugar, 7<em>s.</em> the pound.</p>
+
+<p>The consequence has been, in a great measure, to put
+an end to the great use of coffee: it is now a luxury for
+the rich, and even they generally breakfast <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">à la fourchette</i>,
+and drink little of it. Of <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Syrope de raisin</i>, I bought a
+basin-full for about 9<em>d.</em> This is a sort of vinous treacle,
+and gives a taste to tea as if it were taken from a dirty
+wine-glass. The <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">betterave</i> sugar was to be had sometimes<span class="pagenum" id="Page_269">[Pg 269]</span>
+at Bayonne, but I did not meet with any. On
+some bad sugar being brought to him one day, a French
+Lieutenant-Colonel, by way of abuse, called it <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">betterave</i>,
+and said, it was only from some small sticks being in it,
+as really he had seen <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">betterave</i> sugar as good as any
+other: they still, however, give 6<em>s.</em> a-pound for brown
+island sugar.</p>
+
+<p>The Chateau-Neuf, at Bayonne, was just like an
+English sponging-house. With money we were very
+well off. The man, however, cheated us; we quarrelled;
+I got redress from the General; and on my return got
+into the Chateau-Vieux instead, an old English castle,
+where we were in the same room where Palafox had been;
+the Commandant, a gentleman-like man—his wife a
+troublesome skinflint. The Commandant at Mont de
+Marsan was uncommonly liberal to us all, so were the
+people there; equally so, my patron and patrona; the
+civil engineer, Baron d’Huilliers, who first commanded
+at Bayonne, was also civil, but more distant. He is now
+gone to Bordeaux, and General Thevenot, the late Commandant
+at Vittoria, has succeeded him. Their reports
+were, that Soult was going to the North to replace
+Berthier, who was sick, and Suchet was to succeed in
+command here. Count Gazan, however, did not admit
+this, but never positively denied it. It was also said,
+that the Etat Major would remove to Bordeaux for the
+winter-quarters. Perhaps the events of to-day may
+hasten this. The firing is brisk all this time. We met
+three cavalry regiments on the retreat towards Pau and
+Toulouse for forage; the horses in fair order, but generally
+very inferior to ours in size; the men very fine,
+which was so much the worse for the animals that had
+to carry them. At one place, near Lain, the depôt of
+forage was empty. I met a man running hard with
+orders, the Major’s messenger; he was charged to inform
+the few neighbouring parishes, that unless they furnished<span class="pagenum" id="Page_270">[Pg 270]</span>
+and provided ready at the depôt so many rations of forage
+for three days for two squadrons of cavalry who were
+about to pass by twelve next day, all fit to move on
+immediately, the squadrons would be halted there that
+day to help themselves in the vicinity.</p>
+
+<p>Small horses and mules were very cheap, as the forage
+rations were stopped to the subaltern officers in France,
+and they all consequently wanted to sell, and many of
+the country-people from the requisition wanted also to
+sell. Bayonne was declared in a state of siege for the
+purposes of police. One order of the police posted up
+in the Café Wagram at Bayonne directed, that no
+politics were to be discussed under pain of arrest. Out
+of the town, in the suburbs of St. Esprit, was a magnificent
+hotel, quite in the English style; there our
+party stopped, but were marched off to the Chateau.
+The activity exhibited by the French Commandant
+about Bayonne has been very great; one hundred and
+twenty guns have now been mounted, of one sort or
+another, instead of about three. This number has been
+collected all round the country, and new works are rising
+round the place every day. The young conscripts of
+the usual levy were being drilled; they were fine young
+lads of about seventeen or eighteen; too young for Spain,
+but who in a short time would make excellent soldiers.
+At first they appeared dull and a little unhappy; but in
+a few days they became gay like the rest.</p>
+
+<p>The newly-raised thirty thousand for the twenty-four
+departments for Spain were not yet out, but are to be
+out this week. I understood they will be better men,
+being taken from the old lists of those who had previously
+escaped, some of them twenty-five years old.
+This grievance is very great, but the conscripts seem
+to forget it themselves, and the old parents can do
+nothing. It will tell, however, some time or other, I
+think; and I hope soon. My patrona told me that her<span class="pagenum" id="Page_271">[Pg 271]</span>
+sister’s husband had been drawn five years since, got off
+on payment of two thousand francs, and two francs per
+day since; he is now married, has two children, and is
+still liable to be called upon again. A wish for peace
+follows the relation of all these stories.</p>
+
+<p>On the whole I was well treated, and it appears to
+me that in general the treatment of prisoners by the
+French is very good. Officers are allowed fifty francs
+a-month to live upon, and on marching, the same <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">indemnité</i>
+as the French; 5<em>s.</em> a Colonel and Major, 3<em>s.</em> a
+Captain, and 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> a subaltern. Our being able to
+obtain money makes all the difference almost between
+our treatment and that of the Spanish officers, whom
+they dare not trust on their parole, so many having
+broken it. The worst treatment I experienced was
+being marched on foot from St. Jean de Luz to Bayonne,
+with our own deserters, after having been promised a
+horse, and kept back until we were caught in a thunder-storm,
+because these fellows could not or would not
+march. The soldiers are like themselves to the last;
+when marched as prisoners, they jumped over the fences
+to get apples. The French guard stared, but permitted
+it to be done.</p>
+
+<p><em>October 7th, three o’clock.</em>—The officers passing from
+the front tell me that all is going on well—that the
+French have given way almost everywhere, though they
+still hang to the high rocks on La Rhüne, near where
+I slept on the 31st. They say that the Spaniards have
+behaved well, but that the 52nd and second battalion of
+the 95th have suffered, while forcing the position through
+which I was marched in that thunder-storm. We have
+no orders to move here at present. The reports confirm
+the news that I brought in to Lord Wellington, that
+Soult has gone, and that Suchet commands. I know
+nothing accurately now, however, as I must not go and
+peep again for myself.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_272">[Pg 272]</span></p>
+
+<p>To return to France, and my dream there (for such it
+has appeared), I must give you a notion of a French
+placeman in a little way, not like our great sinecurists.
+My running friend, who carried the message about the
+forage, accompanied me side-by-side for a league. The
+people wished him joy of his prosperity; I asked him
+why? He said, “They think that I am making a fortune,
+having a place in the hospital; and what do you
+suppose it is?—I am the hospital-sexton; I bury all the
+dead, four or five in the twenty-four hours, and all at
+night, digging half the night. And for what?—for
+eighteen sous (or ninepence English) a day. This is
+not the way to make a fortune, you will allow. My
+companion makes a better thing of it: he is always
+tipsy, and leaves me to dig, but he always sings as
+he goes to the grave. The people who know his voice
+say, ‘There goes poor silly John!’ and give him a
+sous.”</p>
+
+<p>Now for a trait of a gens-d’arme—a private in the
+ranks. We went to the play at Bayonne with a gens-d’arme,
+and our friend, the Dutch officer. On going
+down to the coffee-room, my companion, Mr. Jesse,
+meaning to be generous, but not understanding the
+method of treating a revolutionary gens-d’arme, told
+him to get anything he wished to drink as we did.
+Upon which he flew into a rage, said he had drank
+with his colonels, majors, captains, and had never been
+sent out to drink like a servant before. Our Dutchman
+was obliged to explain to him, in order to pacify him,
+the difference in our service between officers and privates;
+said it was once so in France and in Holland, but
+that the prejudice was removed there now, though it
+remained in England. He then desired him to sit
+down and drink with us. With difficulty he was persuaded
+to do so, and we all knocked our glasses together,
+and so it ended amicably. I did not expect this. The<span class="pagenum" id="Page_273">[Pg 273]</span>
+military retain, however, the only remnant of the
+equality of the Revolution.</p>
+
+<p>The two midshipmen in prison with us amused us
+much. By mistake, they were at first put in prison with
+their men for two days on bread and water. Afterwards
+they were lodged in the same room in which I was. We
+were five in all at first. They slept in the same bed, and
+were as often alternately with their heads where the feet
+of the others were as on the pillow. In the open letter
+they sent to Sir G. Collier, about their exchange, through
+the French, they suggested the advisability of bringing
+in two gun-boats close to St. Jean de Luz, in order to
+prevent communication with St. Sebastian, and further,
+advised a little bombardment, &amp;c. The sailors, as they
+were marched, proposed to the midshipmen to upset the
+heavy gens-d’armes by their great jack-boots; said they
+would never be able to right themselves again, and that
+they, the sailors, might get off. The officers, however,
+told them that it would not do; so they were quiet.</p>
+
+<p><em>October 8th, 1813, Lezaca.</em>—The result of yesterday’s
+operations was, that the French was driven from all the
+mountainous parts of their position above Endaye, opposite
+Fontarabia, and so along, opposite Irun, to above
+Bera. I do not know that we have lost above five hundred
+men in this part. The French did not fight well,
+and were not above twelve or fourteen thousand here.
+What has passed higher up I know not. It is said that
+the sixth division, near Maya, have lost men. I believe
+Lord Wellington very prudently stopped short, in this
+part, near Orogne, on the road to St. Jean de Luz, not
+knowing exactly the result near Maya and Roncesvalles.</p>
+
+<p>It is thought that the French must be in greater
+strength there, since they are so weak here. Report says,
+however, that men have been sent northwards. Our sixty
+pieces of artillery were all carried across the Bidassoa last
+night, and are established on the main road. We have<span class="pagenum" id="Page_274">[Pg 274]</span>
+not lost many officers. About three hundred prisoners
+were brought in here, with eight officers, about ten o’clock
+this morning. How lucky it was that my exchange took
+place before this, or it would have been at least deferred,
+or I should have been sent back to the rear.</p>
+
+<p>General Graham has just called on me. He is on his
+way to England to-morrow; he had called to see Lord
+Wellington. He was very civil, and assures me that my
+new mare is a good purchase; and so it ought to be for
+four hundred dollars. Major Stanhope sold her some
+time since for a hundred guineas, to take it back at the
+same if he returned. He did so. General Cole gave him
+a hundred guineas when he was ordered away again;
+this looks well.</p>
+
+<p><em>Evening.</em>—The French still cling with three companies
+to a rock in the midst of La Rhüne mountain, about half
+a mile from my resting-place, now six weeks ago. The
+Spaniards cannot drive them out. Little has been attempted
+or done to-day.</p>
+
+<p>The day before yesterday, a curious scene occurred at
+General Pakenham’s. A French militia Captain had
+been taken among the rocks—a <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">ci-devant</i> regular officer
+retired, and now apparently an active, useful man, in
+organizing the Basque peasantry. He had some regulars
+with him, and peasants without uniform. Lord
+Wellington had succeeded in frightening him by threatening
+to hang him for invading Spain with peasants.
+He seemed a country mountain squire, and rather simple,
+though probably useful. He let fall much against Bonaparte,
+and told us many truths. He was told that I had
+just come from beyond Bayonne, and made me confirm it
+by many facts. He was surprised and puzzled, but believed
+I had been there as a spy, and never guessed the
+truth. Another officer, who knew about eight words of
+Basque, was passed off as a proficient in that dialect.
+The poor militia officer stared, but swallowed everything<span class="pagenum" id="Page_275">[Pg 275]</span>
+as easily as his dinner. His own account of the chase of
+him by the Portuguese, the rocks he climbed whilst they
+fired, given in the most animated style, was very entertaining.
+I was almost sorry this unlucky Basque squire
+was to leave us next morning for Passages, to learn a
+little English farming. He confessed that if he had been
+a single man, and had not left a wife and servants with
+six of the 6th Light Regiment boarding in his house, he
+should in these times have been rather glad than otherwise
+to get away to England, to avoid the present troubles.
+What he wished for most, however, was to return on
+parole, as he could then be at home quietly, with an excuse
+to enable him to refuse to take any part in what was
+doing. The arming of the country being what Lord
+Wellington wished to prevent, he could not, of course,
+favour this man.</p>
+
+<p><em>9th October, five o’clock.</em>—The French have given up the
+rock on La Rhüne in the night, and have to-day been
+beaten out of two or three redoubts; but there has been but
+little else done, and some say we shall now be quiet again
+until Pamplona falls. To-morrow, head-quarters move
+to Bera, only half a league. It is a large ruined village.
+A letter has been intercepted from Pamplona, stating
+that the 25th of this month will be the very latest they
+can hold out; but we have heard this already very often.
+It draws nearer the truth, certainly, every time. Plunder
+has begun, and disorder in the French villages, and Lord
+Wellington is exceedingly angry. He says, that if
+officers will not obey orders, and take care that those
+under them do so also, they must go home, for he will
+not command them here; many of our officers seem to
+think that they have nothing to do but to fight.</p>
+
+<p>This place, Lezaca, is grown very unwholesome, like
+an old poultry-yard, and the deaths of the inhabitants are
+very numerous. So, I think, there is no reason to regret
+the change.</p>
+<br>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_6" href="#FNanchor_6" class="label">[6]</a></p>
+
+<p class="right">
+Head-quarters, September 4, 1813.</p>
+
+<p class="no-indent"><span class="smcap">Dear Sir</span>,<br>
+</p>
+
+<p><span style="padding-left: 2em">I</span> was very much concerned to hear of your misfortune, which, however,
+I don’t doubt will have been alleviated by the Comte Gazan as far as
+may have been in his power, as soon as he will have known that to your
+humanity in the first instance he owed the safety of his wife.</p>
+
+<p>In former wars a person in your situation would have been considered a
+non-combatant, and would have been immediately released; but in this
+war, which, on account of the violence of enmity in which it is conducted,
+it is to be hoped will be the last for some time at least, everybody taken is
+considered a prisoner of war, and none are released without exchange.
+There are several persons now in my power in the same situation with
+yourself in that respect, that is to say, non-combatants, according to the
+known and anciently practised rules of war; among others, there is the
+Secretary of the Governor of St. Sebastian, and I authorize you to tell the
+Duke of Dalmatia or the Count Gazan that I will send back any person in
+exchange for you that they will point out.</p>
+
+<p>I send you, with this letter, the sum of two hundred dollars, of which I
+request you to acknowledge the receipt, and that you will let me know
+whether I can do anything else for you.</p>
+
+<p class="right">
+<span style="padding-right: 2em">Ever yours, most faithfully,</span><br>
+<span class="smcap">Wellington</span>.</p>
+
+<p><em>F. Seymour Larpent, Esq.</em><br>
+</p>
+
+</div>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_276">[Pg 276]</span></p>
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XIV">CHAPTER XIV.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="fs80" style="margin-left: 2em; text-indent: -2em;">Picturesque Quarters—Spanish Reverses—A Strange Adventurer—Spanish
+Jealousy—Distribution of the Army—A Pleasant Companion—News
+from the North—Morale of the French Army—The Artillery.</p>
+
+<p class="right fs80">
+Head-quarters, Bera or Vera,<br>
+<span style="padding-right: 2em">Oct. 15, 1813.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="no-indent">
+<span class="smcap">My dear M——</span>,
+</p>
+
+<p><span style="padding-left: 2em">I</span> have now a quarter with a most rural exterior,
+and a balcony all along the upper story, hung with vines.
+The picturesque and the comfortable, however, are not
+always combined, for the room is dirty, and though small
+has four windows, with only large wooden shutters, and
+no fireplace.</p>
+
+<p>It will be but a cold winter residence, and I fear even
+less comfortable in fact than my Frenada habitation.
+The ground-floor is the stable, the centre devoted to me
+and to the family, the upper story a great drying-room.
+The style of the house is, however, pretty.</p>
+
+<p>Several of the best houses are destroyed, nearly all are
+gutted of furniture, chairs, tables, &amp;c., and many deprived
+of doors and shutters, for the French camp. The
+wounded occupy some of the best houses, and in addition
+to Lord Wellington’s staff, head-quarters, and Marshal
+Beresford’s, who has returned from Lisbon, we have
+General Cole’s staff here, and General Alten’s. This
+place was for two months a sort of neutral ground
+between the two armies, so you may guess that it is a
+little deranged. It has been populous, and contained a
+considerable number of spacious houses, though not<span class="pagenum" id="Page_277">[Pg 277]</span>
+magnificent; yet the room which Lord Wellington
+occupies is, upon the whole, better than almost any he
+has had since he was in Madrid. It is well proportioned,
+has clean walls, and is sufficiently capacious to admit
+comfortably twenty-five or thirty persons to dinner. Of
+course he has furnished it himself, for there are only
+bare walls. The largest house in the place, and the best
+in point of situation, on a pretty knoll above the town,
+was made what is called a strong house of, and a regiment
+of Portuguese are now in it. The squire, I fear, has not
+gained by this arrangement.</p>
+
+<p>The Spaniards were disturbed early yesterday morning
+about two miles from this, surprised, and driven from a
+redoubt, with some loss in prisoners and wounded. I
+believe, however, that they behaved well afterwards;
+but a Spanish regiment gave way. That queer playhouse
+hero, Downie, who was there as a volunteer, rallied them,
+and conducted them well, but had his horse wounded.
+He once more exhibited on the Pyrenees the sword of
+Pizarro, which had so narrow an escape when he was
+made prisoner in the south. You may remember that
+he threw it back to his friends across a broken bridge,
+when he was wounded and cut off by the French. He
+is, I believe, very brave, and seems to take with the
+Spaniards, though with us he can scarcely speak without
+exciting a smile, or even more. He was first a Commissary
+in the light division.</p>
+
+<p>The day before this little surprise, the English officers
+at General Cole’s were remarking, that it was only surprising
+that the Spaniards kept the redoubt and their
+post; for the officers were never seen there with the men
+to keep them on the alert, and the men were cooking
+without arms within twenty yards of the French sentries,
+quite unconcerned. I hope this little surprise may save
+us from a greater; but I expect some night that the
+French will make a night attack upon the Spaniards,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_278">[Pg 278]</span>
+though that is contrary to their usual method, which is
+generally to march two hours before daylight, and begin
+the attack at break of day.</p>
+
+<p><em>15th, later.</em>—I have just met Downie, and he says Lord
+Wellington has admitted that the French were too strong
+for the Spaniards, and that he had given them a fort to
+defend too much in advance in the French position.
+The result, however, is that the French have kept the
+redoubt, and are at work on it already, and have recovered
+every house in the suburbs of Zera, or Sara, of
+which the Spaniards at one time had nearly one half.
+Many say that this is properly a part of the French
+position, and does not signify at all. Lord Wellington
+seems to have a bad cold to-day.</p>
+
+<p>Every one appears to have had some adventures the
+night I was taken prisoner. General Pakenham’s horse
+and Captain Eckersley’s fell down from a bank into the
+river below, and it was so dark that they and two others
+thought it best to remain there in the trees till daylight,
+and not stir though it rained. Lord Wellington and all
+his staff lost their way, and were five hours exploring
+two leagues home in the rain and dark, and did not
+arrive until ten at night after various perils. It was a
+tremendous night. Mr. Heaphy, the artist, who is now
+here, was nearly being involved in my scrape, and it is
+said he has, in consequence of these risks, added ten
+guineas to the price of his likenesses, and made them
+fifty guineas instead of forty guineas. This is too much
+for a little water-colour whole length; but he has, I hear,
+now taken twenty-six, and some excessively like.</p>
+
+<p>Some of our houses begin to improve much, as many
+of the inhabitants, who must be somewhat used to these
+events, are returning now with all their doors and
+shutters, which they had themselves carried off and concealed.
+Canning’s quarter is suddenly by this means
+transformed into a comfortable sort of residence.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_279">[Pg 279]</span></p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Vera, October 16th.</em>—Here I am still
+sticking to my post, though in constant pain, and at
+times bent enough to act the old woman, like Mrs. Sparks.
+The doctor still says I must, first or last, go to the hot-baths
+at Sestona, but I fight off as long as possible.
+Things must mend soon. The ration beef is like shoe-leather;
+mutton I can scarcely ever get; fowls are 9<em>s.</em>
+each, and are all snapped up before my man can resolve
+to give that price for them. Pork, ham, sausages, salt-fish
+and bacon alone abound.</p>
+
+<p>Every one seems to think that we shall make no other
+movement until Pamplona falls, which, as usual, is daily
+expected. The French, in the meantime, are in busy
+preparation, burrowing and throwing up works, like
+moles, on every rising ground near them. It does not
+appear to me that they ever really intended to defend
+this mountain La Rhüne; they were in some degree
+surprised, as I told you; they had a notion that we had
+sent two divisions to Catalonia. They will now probably
+fight harder for each acre of ground, unless completely
+turned by numbers, and a decided flank movement from
+Roncesvalles.</p>
+
+<p>From the reports which are current, the whole of which
+I dare not mention, it is to be feared that the Spanish
+Government and Lord Wellington have not gone on well
+together lately, in spite of outward appearances. The
+moment any General acts cordially with us, and a measure
+goes on well, some reason is found for his removal.
+This ridiculous Spanish jealousy would be endurable if
+they supported it by exertions of their own, so as to
+enable us to leave them to themselves; but we are now
+feeding and clothing their half-starved men in the front,
+and they are doing very little in the rear to supply those
+they have, or to increase their numbers. In short, five
+years’ misery has not yet scourged them into reasonable
+beings, and turned romance heroes into common-sense<span class="pagenum" id="Page_280">[Pg 280]</span>
+soldiers and practical politicians. The men, however,
+seem now to fight well whenever they are well led.</p>
+
+<p><em>October 17th, Sunday, Post-day.</em>—General Graham has
+acted wisely in going home just now, his age considered.
+I told Lord Wellington that the French officers said that
+he (Lord Wellington) ought to die now, for he never
+would have such another year, and fortune would prove
+fickle. He laughed, but did not seem disposed to
+acquiesce in this. He is better.</p>
+
+<p>I have just got four bundles of English hay, about a
+hundred pounds weight each, which are to last me for
+ten days. My next forage must be picked up on the
+hills, or bought in the market in the shape of baskets of
+coarse river grass.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Vera, October 21st, 1813, Thursday.</em>—The
+week is already half elapsed, and Sunday, the post day,
+draws near, leaving me with nothing to say. I
+am like the Spanish country people, who without waiting
+to hear a question always begin “<i lang="es" xml:lang="es">nada, nada,
+nada</i>,” or “<em>nothing, nothing, nothing</em>.” They generally
+add to us “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Francese roben</i>” and “<i lang="es" xml:lang="es">rompas todas</i>,” and
+as the French told me, said to them “<i lang="es" xml:lang="es">Anglesi rompen</i>”
+and “<i lang="es" xml:lang="es">roben todas</i>,” but always to every one “<i lang="es" xml:lang="es">nada
+nada</i>.”</p>
+
+<p>I have this last week ridden out for half an hour every
+day before breakfast, and an hour or two before dinner;
+and thus exercise myself and my horses in the meadows
+about here, which are now of course all open, and when
+it has dried up a little after the rain, make a good
+riding-school.</p>
+
+<p>The only news here just now is, that Marshal Beresford
+is to have a separate command of a <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">corps d’armée</i>,
+not to act separately, but to complete our system, which
+will be—General Hill, right column; General Sir J.
+Hope, left column, which Graham had; Marshal Beresford
+the right centre-column; and Lord Wellington the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_281">[Pg 281]</span>
+left centre: each consisting of different divisions and
+bodies of the allies.</p>
+
+<p>The French to-day are collecting upon the rising
+ground near La Rhüne, and our people, thinking that
+this looked like a threat of doing something, are all on
+the alert, but I hear no firing. This is another anxious
+moment, for the fall of Pamplona is daily expected, and
+the garrison threaten to blow it up, which will make
+some desperate work.</p>
+
+<p>Lieutenant-colonel Elphinstone arrived here some time
+since with Marshal Beresford, from Lisbon. He is now
+in quarters within a hundred yards of me, across a little
+stream; my nearest neighbour indeed, except Colonel
+Ellicombe, in that direction. He is here without his
+horses, and without much baggage, or many comforts;
+he is therefore, like myself, buying. His own horses only
+arrived as far as Ciudad Rodrigo. He has made up his
+mind to stay till the war is over.</p>
+
+<p>The French, in addition to a few conscripts, who have
+joined, have called out all the militia in the neighbouring
+departments. This is a new scene, but I have still
+great doubts of the policy of entering France at all.
+The French now suffer severely, and grumble against
+their own government. Invasion may stir up the strong
+vanity of a Frenchman, and make him forget his
+grievances, in order to revenge himself on those who insult
+his native soil. Five or six subaltern officers have come
+over here to us; I believe owing to some Spanish connexions
+generally, or disgust and personal disappointment;
+and two inhabitants of the village on this side of
+St. Jean de Luz, Oragne, came over here to avoid serving
+in the militia, which is now being assembled.</p>
+
+<p><em>12 o’clock, Friday, 22nd.</em>—Nothing was done yesterday.
+It was all a false alarm in the front. The French,
+however, say that we shall be astonished with some extraordinary
+news in less than three days! Some say they<span class="pagenum" id="Page_282">[Pg 282]</span>
+mean from the North, some from Pamplona. If they
+are bold enough in the latter to dash out in the night
+against Don Carlos and his Spaniards, I think they
+would, with the loss of about one-third of their men,
+fight their way to Jaca, where they have a garrison, and
+escape. They would of course come out with provisions
+only, leave mines prepared to add to the confusion, sally
+out in all directions, and then push on in a body. Don
+Carlos with all his vigilance would not, in my opinion,
+be a match for them. He has sent word to the governor
+that he holds his head answerable for the safety of the
+works of the town, and two Frenchmen liable to death
+for every Spanish inhabitant starved.</p>
+
+<p><em>Saturday, 23rd.</em>—As I have dined alone every day since
+Sunday last, when I went to Lord Wellington’s, I pick
+up no news. Your July ‘Edinburgh Review’ is wonderfully
+fallen off; in parts very tame, and more like a poor
+imitation of the old ‘Edinburgh Review;’ and yet some
+of the articles are curious.</p>
+
+<p>We begin to feel the effects of this dangerous coast
+now. Vessels can even now hardly lie in safety, though
+shut up in the close harbour of Passages, and the last
+packet was close in on Sunday last, on the same day on
+which Major Hare fought his way in, in the <em>Landrail</em>,
+and was not able to land the mail until yesterday.
+Major Hare brought papers to the 9th, but scarcely any
+news. He was closely examined by Lord Wellington
+when he arrived at dinner-time. He had got up his
+lesson so badly, that he could answer nothing clearly as
+to dates, but always ended by a reference to the papers.</p>
+
+<p>It is known that Bonaparte was at Dresden up to the
+5th instant, and that nothing was done. This some call
+bad, some good news. On the whole, I think the latter.
+Colonel Gordon states that Bonaparte used our position
+here, as a strong argument with the Emperor of Austria
+to join him in force, stating nothing could restore matters<span class="pagenum" id="Page_283">[Pg 283]</span>
+here but an entire new army of a hundred and fifty
+thousand men, who had not known the English, and that
+he should be invaded unless supported by his father-in-law.
+This is a queer argument to one who, I suspect,
+was only hesitating through fear of his son-in-law’s
+strength being too much for the Allies, and would tell
+the wrong way. He also states, that Lord Wellington’s
+true account of Vittoria did harm in Germany, being
+much under the notions they had entertained of it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Vera, October 24 1813.</em>—Post-day.
+We remain <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">in statu quo</i>. I see the papers have made
+rather a pretty history of my capture, treating me as an
+old gentleman (as just now they well may), and that my
+younger friends got off. In fact, however, the youngest
+of the party, Jesse, was the first who was taken. There
+will soon be some dispute here among the artillery and
+engineers on the subject of rank and brevet rank.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Bera, or Vera, October 31st, 1813.</em>—I
+have been so worried this week with business and other
+things that I have not been able to write until the very
+post-day, so this will be short and hasty. The weather
+has been trying, one day very cold, and I hoped we were
+to have clear frost, which, in spite of my open room, is,
+in my opinion, better than wet. The thermometer got
+down to 36°, close to where I was shaving, three mornings
+since; but it soon turned to wet—raw, constant,
+violent cold wet; north-west wind, and rain in repeated
+stormy torrents. In camp our poor soldiers have had
+their tents torn, and almost washed away; then we have
+had hail followed by snow. Colonel Belson has written
+to me very feelingly, from the mountains, but seems
+well.</p>
+
+<p>Another drawback as to writing has been this. Three
+brigades of artillery were moved along La Rhüne mountain,
+three nights since by night. As they went close to
+the French pickets, to get from our left to Endage, towards<span class="pagenum" id="Page_284">[Pg 284]</span>
+the centre, in our front, they have as yet only
+reached this vicinity, and have halted here. Amongst
+them was Colonel Ross’s light troops, and Captain Jenkinson,
+and young ——; the latter came to me here,
+very miserable, wet, &amp;c. To save him camp I took him
+in. Here he has been three days, and with my establishment
+this saves me some trouble. Besides which, one
+cannot get on well with business with a chum always
+at hand, in a small room, night and day. He is pretty
+well, and I conclude will remain at this place until we
+move—at least until the army moves, which every one
+expects as soon as the French will give us up Pamplona.
+This is <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">en train</i> I conclude. A proposal came out to Don
+Carlos some days since, but a most unreasonable one;
+namely, to allow them all to go to France, with arms and
+baggage, and to be on parole for one year not to serve
+against us. This was refused. They made a great
+parade of giving our officers white bread and champagne,
+and Burgundy, &amp;c., at the interview. So much for
+humbug. They said, “See how <em>forts</em> we are.” To
+which we said, “Let us see how your men are.” Every
+day’s delay now is very provoking. I hope they will
+soon surrender.</p>
+
+<p>I wish it were possible to get my chum another quarter,
+for I work in general at breakfast, at dinner, and in
+the evening, and a companion is a great inconvenience,
+though he is very considerate. Pray tell his family, the
+Colonel, &amp;c., how he is. Captain Jenkinson would not
+go into a house, but pitched his tent in the wet, and
+went to bed dinnerless, at four o’clock, from fatigue. He
+is, however, well now. The work of getting guns along
+over a clay-road, up a mountain, in the dark, without
+being allowed to use lights, is no trifling undertaking.</p>
+
+<p>The news from the North is very good, especially the
+accession of the Bavarians to the Allies; which, from
+the papers I doubted, but which Colonel Gordon says his<span class="pagenum" id="Page_285">[Pg 285]</span>
+brother mentions as fact; Lord Wellington tells me,
+also, that Government at home believe it to be correct.
+The private letters from the Austrian head-quarters
+which have reached here, do not say much in favour of
+the Swedish Prince, and seem to think he has much of
+French humbug in him—<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">c’est à voir</i>. It is also said that
+he saves the Swedes, and is always in the rear, surrounded
+with guards and twenty sentinels. They speak well of
+the Russian troops, and very ill of the French lads now
+opposed to them. You will rejoice to hear that we are
+to have divine service here to-day in the square with
+some troops. This will not do for me, standing out bareheaded
+for an hour in the damp; I must remain a heathen
+a little longer, I fear. Mr. B——, the clergyman
+who has lately arrived at head-quarters, seemed to be a
+pleasant gentleman-like man; I have, however, only met
+him twice.</p>
+
+<p><em>Two o’clock, Sunday.</em>—Still nothing decisive from Pamplona.
+To-day’s post brings accounts of no communication
+for two days, but that the garrison desert twenty
+a-day, and say that the place is almost in a state of mutiny
+against the General. To-day the weather has a
+little cleared up, but our artillery horses are living upon
+dried fern and corn—no hay, no straw, and very little
+coarse grass; every one in a fidget to move from hence.
+Unless we can so maul this French army as to have them
+at our mercy, and then go where we please, and stop
+where we please, out of our own moderation, I think we
+shall not have any quiet winter-quarters this year. As
+long as anything like an army remains, the French must
+be doing something to molest us, unless we molest them;
+and then the great nation can never submit to let our
+allied army quietly take up their winter-quarters in the
+French territory—at least I think not. Several of their
+conscripts have joined them, and they make a parade of
+drilling them within sight and hearing of our outposts,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_286">[Pg 286]</span>
+even in marching without arms, &amp;c. Their deserters
+say they have about fifty-five thousand men; it is supposed
+with their conscripts this is rather under the mark.
+They are throwing up works in all directions all over the
+country, and making breast-works, redoubts, &amp;c. A
+breast-work, half round a hill, appears to be turned up in
+a few nights.</p>
+
+<p>It must be allowed that they are industrious at least,
+but the <em>morale</em> of the old soldiers is shaken very much.
+It is even said that the young ones fight the best of the
+two. This agrees with the story that we hear from the
+North: that before the Austrian ambassador left Paris, a
+letter from Marshal Soult had arrived, stating, that unless
+he had fifty thousand new men, who had never
+met the British, he would not answer for the South of
+France.</p>
+
+<p>I see your papers make Endage a fortified place—it is
+a great heap of ruins; never strong, only once a fortified
+village. It was nearly destroyed about the year 1790 by
+the Spaniards, and has never recovered itself. In return,
+Fontarabia, once really rather a strongly-fortified town,
+was soon afterwards blown up by the French, and the
+works are for the most part still in ruins. The town has
+not suffered much, for this was only a military operation.
+Of all the ruins we have made amongst us in Spain, even
+including Badajoz, and Rodrigo, and Almeida, it is said
+St. Sebastian is the most complete. It was a large,
+handsome, and thriving town four months since: one
+side of one street alone remains entire! every street is
+barricaded and blockaded! Rubbish up to the one pair of
+stairs windows, and walls half down, make it dangerous
+in wind to walk anywhere. Beside this, the large
+wooden balconies, hanging about by a few beams at the
+two pair of stairs windows, threaten every moment to
+fall, even where the walls are sound. Some repairs are
+being carried on, however, in a few buildings; at least<span class="pagenum" id="Page_287">[Pg 287]</span>
+preparations are being made, by clearing, and the works
+are in progress towards a state of defence. Most officers
+think the destruction so great that it can scarcely ever
+be a good town again—that is, as a town; as a fortified
+place, with much labour, it may. The French garrison
+were so disheartened in the castle, that they could not
+be made to do more, I understand from the engineers,
+for it was still tenable for some time longer when it surrendered.
+When the town was first taken, and our men
+were all drunk about the place, committing every disorder,
+the Governor was doubting about a sortie to recover
+it; thinking, however, that we must have fresh men near
+at hand, in case of such an accident, kept sober and together,
+he gave up the idea. Many say, that if he had
+done so, such was the disorganized state of our men, that
+it would have succeeded. His own men were very much
+weakened and dispirited.</p>
+
+<p>Most of the light division tents in front here have
+been declared unserviceable from rents, &amp;c. The men
+are still returned healthy, to the astonishment of all,
+even the doctors, who say the consequences of this must
+soon appear. Wine is dearer, which is a good thing, and
+I believe our men bear this cold wet weather better than
+heat.</p>
+
+<p>Tell John his two newspapers of the 20th have been
+in great request. I believe only Dr. M’Gregor had one
+besides Lord Wellington. They have been much read,
+and I have now enclosed one to Colonel Belson, which
+will probably be the only one in his division. It happened
+to contain almost all the news of the last week.</p>
+
+<p>Lieutenant-colonel Elphinstone is still here. I understand
+that he got a queer answer from Lord Wellington
+when at Lisbon, which brought him here in such a hurry.
+When he became senior officer of the corps here, he
+wrote up for instructions from Lisbon, and to ask what
+Lord Wellington wished him to do, and where he was to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_288">[Pg 288]</span>
+go as Chief Engineer in the Peninsula? The answer
+was, that as Chief Engineer in the Peninsula he would
+best know where his proper place was. Up he came by
+sea in a week, in consequence.</p>
+
+<p>A man to thrive here must have his wits about him,
+and not see or feel difficulties, or start them, to go on
+smoothly. People wonder at Lieutenant-colonel Dickson,
+Portuguese service, and only (barring brevet rank) a captain
+of artillery in our service, commanding, as he has
+done now ever since Frenada, all the artillery of both
+nations, English and Portuguese. He has four seniors
+out here, but all young comparatively also, who have
+submitted hitherto. E—— says it should be a General’s
+command to be done properly, with proper officers under
+him; others say the old artillery officers have rather
+changed their sex, and are somewhat of old women.</p>
+
+<p>Lord Wellington seems to favour the latter opinion a
+little. I conclude that he finds it answer in practice.
+As an instance of this, it may be stated that in the pursuit
+after the battle of Vittoria in the bad roads, Lord
+Wellington saw a column of French making a stand as
+if to halt for the night. “Now, Dickson,” said he, “if
+we had but some artillery up.” “They are close by, my
+Lord.” And in ten minutes, from a hill on the right,
+Lieutenant-colonel Rose’s light division guns began bang—bang—bang!
+and away went the French two leagues
+further off. I fear if there had been a General, that we
+should have had, instead of this, a report of the bad state
+of the roads, and the impossibility of moving guns. In
+fact, this same brigade of guns, with their mounted men,
+took the last French mortar near Pamplona, and Lord
+Wellington passed whilst they were putting it to rights
+to proceed. They had killed two of the horses in it the
+day before.</p>
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_289">[Pg 289]</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XV">CHAPTER XV.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="fs80" style="margin-left: 2em; text-indent: -2em;">Fall of Pamplona—Deterioration of the Army—Duke of York’s Orders—Orders
+of Merit—Church Service—Capture of French Redoubts—March
+of the Army—Incidents of Foreign Service—Frequency of Desertion—Wellington
+and the Lawyers.</p>
+
+<p class="right fs80">
+Head-quarters, Vera, Nov. 5, 1813.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="no-indent">
+<span class="smcap">My dear M——</span>,
+</p>
+
+<p><span style="padding-left: 2em">Here</span> we are still, but rather nearer a move than
+when I wrote last. Between business and my chum
+——, who is still here with me, I could never spare a
+moment to write. Even now, at three o’clock, I have
+been five or six hours at work.</p>
+
+<p>The weather has improved, however, these last two
+days, and now tends to frost. Anything is better than
+the incessant wet we have here, up to that part of the
+army at Roncesvalles; perpetual torrents from the north-west,
+almost night and day, so that the roads have been
+nearly impassable. At Roncesvalles they have had snow
+in the valley fourteen inches deep. So close as in the
+valley of Baztan, at Elisondo, it has been as rainy as
+here. We have now cold, thick, November, London,
+foggy mornings, until nearly eleven o’clock forenoon,
+and then a clear fine day, but not yet absolute frost.
+Thermometer about 36° or 37°. Meadows all swampy.
+On the whole, however, the snow gentlemen have had
+much the best of it, though a little uneasy as to their
+supplies just now, from the fear of snow stoppages.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_290">[Pg 290]</span></p>
+
+<p>Pamplona has at last fallen, as you will have learnt by
+the last mail, for I believe Lord Wellington kept the
+packet on purpose back two days. The garrison, four
+thousand two hundred, it is said, are to embark to-day at
+Passages if possible, at least as soon as they can be got
+ready. Don Carlos made them submit to his terms, as
+we hear, <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">in toto</i>. They were even compelled to give up
+the Juramentudas, besides the fortification artillery. Report
+says fifty-seven field guns have been found there.
+This shows us the danger we escaped by Lord Wellington’s
+presence of mind, and the bravery of our men on
+the 28th of July last. Had the French got a league
+further, they would have found this fine field train all
+ready, and a reinforcement of near five thousand men in
+the garrison. No one can tell how this might have
+changed matters. We have still eighteen guns here,
+with the horses living on leaves, fern, and corn, but
+ready to play upon a new star-work the French are every
+day making more of, on a hill close to La Rhüne, which
+they still occupy near Sarré. I think these guns will
+surprise them a little. At present, I conclude, from
+general report, that we are only waiting for the rains to
+run down and the roads to dry a little; and if the
+weather of these last two days continue, every one says
+that we shall soon make a push on.</p>
+
+<p>Our men have had a miserable time of it lately; and
+when uncomfortable and idle, I am sorry to say, they
+always make work for me. We hear of daily losses,
+plunder, &amp;c., and the Spaniards perform their part well
+in this respect. General O’Lalor yesterday found his
+secretary had run away, down towards Madrid, with
+nearly two thousand dollars, for he trusted him with
+everything. Last time I dined at head-quarters Lord
+Wellington got into a long conversation with me for
+nearly two hours about the poor-laws, and the assize of
+bread, about the Catholic question, the state of Ireland,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_291">[Pg 291]</span>
+&amp;c., just as if he had nothing else upon his mind. In
+many points we agreed very well, particularly as to what
+would be necessary to be done in Ireland—if anything;
+but he thinks nothing should be done at all. He is still
+alarmed at the separation spirit which he thinks exists
+there, and the remains of a Jacobin feeling in the lower
+classes in England.</p>
+
+<p><em>6th November.</em>—Poor —— must pass an uncomfortable
+time with me here, and yet I suffer much more from
+having him, and he is little aware how inconvenient he
+is to me.</p>
+
+<p>To-day, 6th November, I received three letters from
+England. I see there is a magnificent order of the Duke
+of York about parcels to the army, up to a ton weight,
+being forwarded to officers by the Commissariat. A few
+parcels would make the Commissary stare a little, when,
+with nearly twelve thousand mules, we can scarcely be
+supplied with bread and corn, and not with forage. You
+seem to know so little about the real state of things here
+in England, that I think the General, who came half
+way up from Lisbon to review, and then gave it up,
+should be employed to explain the difficulties in the
+duties of office. The Commissary-general says that it
+will take him an entire new office, which he must write
+home for, to keep the accounts which this new plan will
+require.</p>
+
+<p>Our troops at Roncesvalles have been terribly off;
+some of the guns are buried in the snow there; some
+Spaniards, as well as English, have perished by the cold,
+and one picket was obliged to be dug out. I hear that
+they are now moving away, and that an attack by that
+pass must be abandoned; but we shall soon know for
+certain if this dry weather lasts. Our great men were all
+in the front, peeping to-day into France from the mountains
+which surround this hollow. Our army-post to
+one division, with the dragoon carrying it, was caught<span class="pagenum" id="Page_292">[Pg 292]</span>
+two days since,—picked up, probably, as I was; he had
+got a little out of his way, somehow. I hope no letters
+of importance were caught; but it was provoking. The
+French, it is said, sent back one letter to General Oswald,
+opened, and said that the rest were all immaterial; however,
+they did not return them. The aide-de-camp of the
+late governor of Pamplona has been here for the last two
+days, Monsieur Pomade, a gentleman-like man; he says
+when the Vittoria army arrived at Pamplona on June
+the 24th, the garrison was three thousand strong, and
+the place provisioned for one hundred days complete, but
+that that army, <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">en passant</i>, gave them a thousand more
+effective men and five hundred sick. This caused them
+to give in sooner than they otherwise should. He says
+that they never expected their present fate, but that they
+knew nothing, and never had any communication whatever
+with France or Soult; that they sent out several
+times, but never got any one in. This is more than we
+can say at St. Sebastian, and does Don Carlos some
+credit.</p>
+
+<p>The new crosses for the victories are very handsome—the
+medals so so—and the former will look strange with
+a whole row of clasps, which I suppose Lord Wellington
+must have now, for he has already two, up to Salamanca,
+in addition to the cross. I think the thing is either too
+general, or not enough so—a selection of distinguished
+men, of all ranks, would be better than a general distribution
+to all of certain ranks and situations. It now
+shows little more than that a man had a certain rank in
+such a battle, and not that he performed anything more
+than his neighbours. A selection might have descended
+with advantage even to the privates. Of course many
+grumble, and are disappointed that others have more
+marks and clasps than they have; that, however, would
+always be the case.</p>
+
+<p><em>Sunday, the 6th.</em>—Post-day for ordinary men—to-morrow<span class="pagenum" id="Page_293">[Pg 293]</span>
+for Lord Wellington; so I proceed. For the
+first time these fourteen months I have to-day been to a
+military church; I found that the service was in-doors,
+and ventured, but was much reproached by my doctor.
+We were in the newly-repaired large public town room,
+which has just been made water and wind tight, as well
+as all the rooms round about it, for an hospital, and will
+soon, it is to be feared, be filled with wounded. So we
+go on clearing away one set of hobblers, and destroying
+houses on both sides, then repairing and cleaning for the
+new set we are about to make; and then clearing off
+again, and so on! This town is just now clear of all the
+old wounded; and the large room was washed, Dr.
+M’Gregor told me (though I should not have discovered
+it), for those soon expected. I believe he wished not a
+little that we had gone somewhere else to pray, and not
+made a dirt in his department. The service was short,
+plainly read, but tolerably well; the sermon homely and
+familiar, but good for the troops, I think, and very fair
+and useful to any one. Lord Wellington was there,
+with his attendants, a few officers, and our new staff
+corps.</p>
+
+<p>On my return home, lo, and behold! I found ——
+very alert, waiting for breakfast, as he had orders to
+march on to the front in half an hour, and in less than
+that time, before breakfast was over, I saw Lord Wellington
+and his suite all off on horseback to the front, to
+peep again. It is not likely, however, anything can be
+done until to-morrow at soonest, and it will be stiff work
+if the French do their duty as they ought.</p>
+
+<p>I now suspect that the packet will be kept until the
+result of what is about to be done is known, unless there
+is another ship ready. My letter must, however, go
+to-day; but I will try and send a line off, if possible, by
+the same conveyance as the despatches. As I must not
+go and peep, for fear of being picked up again and carried<span class="pagenum" id="Page_294">[Pg 294]</span>
+off further next time, my communications will be
+dull and uninteresting now. A move was becoming
+very necessary, for sickness had just commenced, and in
+the mountains on the right horses were dying fast. If
+we can but beat them well, we have a chance of some
+quiet quarter. Merely beating them back, in my opinion,
+will not do for us; and if the French defend their
+new works with as much steadiness as they have shown
+activity in making them, you will have a long <cite>Gazette</cite>.
+We all think that their <em>morale</em> is much shaken, and that
+the old soldiers will not stand now; if so, the young
+ones will not hold out long, though it was observed that
+they fought best on late occasions.</p>
+
+<p>——, the last thing before he left, was at me again,
+about procuring his brother to be made a Captain in the
+Navy by Lord Wellington’s interest, though it might be
+thought I had sufficiently put him aside the first time,
+as I have no humbug in these matters. It now became
+necessary to refuse him in direct terms, assuring him
+that Lord Wellington had continually said to me, “I
+never interfere with the Navy, when I can help it, in
+any way; I let them have all their rights, that I may
+keep all mine; and as I do not wish them to meddle
+with me, I never meddle with them.” I should never
+have thought of asking Lord Wellington for anything
+now except upon public grounds, such as repaying the
+Bayonne banker, &amp;c., as it is not my doctrine that because
+a man has done you one favour you are, therefore,
+to ask him to do you another.</p>
+
+<p><em>Twelve o’clock.</em>—Six more guns are now rumbling by
+through this place to go up the pass. B——’s have
+been off some time; six more will, I hear, be soon up,
+and these eighteen are all to be collected to play upon
+the French new work, where they had yesterday got
+about twelve together. It is feared that we must begin
+from the ground at too great a distance, thirteen hundred<span class="pagenum" id="Page_295">[Pg 295]</span>
+yards, but I hope closer quarters will be come to soon,
+for in my opinion the French succeed best at cannonading
+and sharp-shooting, and we at the hand-to-hand work.</p>
+
+<p><em>Two o’clock.</em>—The mail is said to go as usual, so I
+must close directly, but I have no doubt the packet will
+be kept, as every one says publicly that the attack is to
+take place to-morrow morning. General Cole has just
+told me to go up to the top of La Rhüne, where I must
+be safe, and must see everything. I shall not go, however,
+unless I find all the quiet steady ones do the same,
+for though you may see all, and if knowing, may be
+down again in time, yet mistakes may be made by the
+unknowing, and I shall remain quietly here.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Vera, November 9th, 1813.</em>—I have
+this moment received your packet of the 26th ult., with
+all the kind enclosures from aunts, cousins, &amp;c. The
+attack never took place on Monday the 8th, as I told you
+in my last; the roads, from the wet, being so bad that I
+believe the army could not be collected in time. To-morrow,
+however, is now said to be the day, as the two
+last days have continued fine and mild, the wind south,
+and the thermometer up at 52° again. It now looks
+like rain, but is fine, and holds up as yet, with a wind
+south and south-west; whilst all the rain came with a
+cold north-west wind. It will not do, therefore, to make
+use of English weather-wisdom here.</p>
+
+<p>Your English mail is thought nothing of. A <cite>Gazette</cite>
+of the 25th had got here first, and forestalled it; and
+we have to-day much greater news from the French side,
+which is believed by every one here, and by the French
+army as we are told; namely, that Bonaparte is beaten
+back to the Rhine, with the loss of three divisions cut
+off by blowing up a bridge too soon, &amp;c.; one General
+taken, and one drowned, &amp;c. This puts our party in
+spirits for to-morrow, and will, I hope, damp the French
+if believed by them, as the deserters report it to be.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_296">[Pg 296]</span></p>
+
+<p>The Portuguese are most anxious to enter France,
+and are in high spirits; the grave ones, however, expect
+a great number of broken heads, unless the French turn
+tail shamefully. You ask me about Baron de Trenqueléon,
+and whether I thought of him whilst I was a
+prisoner. I certainly did at Mont de Marsan, and found
+that I was within thirty miles of him; and an emigrant
+there advised me to apply to go over to see him, but I
+thought it might do us both harm, and, therefore, never
+said a word upon the subject to any one. Major D——
+had serious thoughts of going as my servant with the
+baggage to look about; but it would have been a
+dangerous experiment.</p>
+
+<p><em>The 10th November.</em>—I dined with Lord Wellington
+last night, and staid there till near ten. He was all
+gaiety and spirits; and only said on leaving the room,
+“Remember! at four in the morning.” Monsieur
+Pomade, the aide-de-camp to the governor of Pamplona,
+was there, and I sat next to him and had some conversation
+with him. He had been told that operations
+were going on, and that that was the reason he could
+not be sent in yet to the French. To show what he
+expected to be the result, he told me (when I begged him
+to tell the banker at Bayonne that all his letters had
+been sent safely) that except from necessity and orders
+he should avoid Bayonne, as he was not ready yet to be
+shut up again in another town.</p>
+
+<p>To-day every one was in motion here two hours before
+daylight; and part of the cavalry passed through here
+at five o’clock. I got up, and had all packed ready by
+daylight, and found that every one was gone to see the
+glorious attack—even the doctors and the two parsons:
+so I determined to venture up to the top of La Rhüne in
+the way General Cole recommended. The day was
+beautiful. I passed the camp of the latter in my way
+up, and should have heard there of any check. I then<span class="pagenum" id="Page_297">[Pg 297]</span>
+pursued my way, and staid on the top from about eight
+until two, hearing and seeing fire and smoke all the way
+along the hills from St. Jean de Luz to near St. Jean
+Pied de Port. The whole was visible at once; and I
+could see the men even with the naked eye, by the glitter
+of their arms, for a considerable way. The French
+redoubts crowned the tops of all their positions with
+deep ditches; and they had full shelter in woods and
+houses; but our men slowly beat them on and on, from
+place to place, forcing their way until all the right of the
+position seemed ours. Two redoubts on the hill below
+me I saw abandoned shamefully, when our men got
+round them. A large star fort on the top took more
+time. The men from the others tried to make for it, but
+failed; though mostly got off on our side. Those in the
+fort I left surrounded by our men, who ran up in four
+or five directions to within about fifty yards or less,
+firing as they ran; and then bobbed all down for shelter
+until all were ready. They lay in this way nearly an
+hour. When satisfied that the men shut up must be
+prisoners (as I hear they were) I returned home.</p>
+
+<p>On the ridge of hills all along the right, the rows of
+huts set on fire added not a little to the scene. By
+whom they were burnt I know not. The cannon roared
+away in the mountains. On the hill, amongst others, I
+met Lord E. Somerset, the Cavalry General, gone up to
+look out, with Colonel Vivian and Mr. Heaphy. He
+was there before me, when the fighting was nearer, and
+declares that he saw one English soldier bayonet two
+French officers who attacked him when advanced from
+the others—first one and then the other. I hope that
+our loss has not been severe, considering what the
+position was.</p>
+
+<p>I believe we were to have moved to Sarré; but
+General Giron has taken seventy houses there for his
+staff; and the rest are full of wounded. From what I<span class="pagenum" id="Page_298">[Pg 298]</span>
+have heard, our officers think themselves well out of the
+scrape. The left of our army towards St. Jean de Luz
+was refused;—that is, the French were not pressed there
+much, in hopes of forming the right so rapidly as to cut
+off a good lot on the left. That will not probably be the
+case, but that they must move off to-night to a new
+position, and not having such another line of works, the
+French must stand to-morrow if attacked openly on the
+hills, or run for it. I have seen no one yet, so only give
+you my own views, which may be probably very wide of
+the <cite>Gazette</cite>. It was a terrible fag for my new mare,
+and at top cool, and no room to walk about: I have in
+consequence a new fidget, in her refusing her food. The
+troops will devour all the forage in front, and I do not
+know how we shall get on at all. Adieu.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, St. Fé, November 12th, 1813.</em>—At
+seven, yesterday morning, we received orders to march;
+all the baggage to assemble at Sarré, and wait there for
+orders. We did so; and on our way crossed the first
+French redoubts and positions, and began to see our
+wounded and the stripped dead lying about as usual.
+So starved and weak were many of the animals, and so
+clayey and deep the roads, that the scene had almost the
+appearance of a retreat, except that we passed all the
+wounded and prisoners going to the rear, instead of
+marching with them. The Spanish oxen were so starved,
+and thin, and weak, that during the first league I counted
+probably about eleven lying down to die, whilst every now
+and then a sergeant with his pike, or a soldier gave them
+a stab, half out of humanity, and half to see the effect,
+and from a sort of love of mischief. Then there were
+ten or fifteen poor women belonging to the baggage
+of the division lamenting over their dying donkeys and
+mules, whilst others were brutally beating some to
+death, because they would not go farther. In every
+direction baggage was falling off, and the whole formed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_299">[Pg 299]</span>
+a glorious scene of confusion. Near Sarré I was caught
+in a violent storm, but got to a house for shelter before
+I was wet, and there stood in the doorway of a deserted
+house, with three dead bodies on the ground close by
+me; one certainly that of an officer, from his clean
+skin, neatly-shaven beard and whiskers, and from every
+remnant of his dress having been worth stealing. The
+other two were Spaniards.</p>
+
+<p>The Spaniards behaved tolerably in the field, but not
+like the fourth and the light division. In plundering
+and mischief, however, they excelled them. I found
+them, on passing, breaking and plundering one of the
+best houses in Sarré. Our own people are grown
+expert hands at this, and Lord Wellington threatens
+hanging, and, I believe, has hung a few, but in vain.
+The people in general have fled, and the Spaniards come
+in to carry off pots, pans, dishes, chairs, tables, &amp;c., to
+refurnish their own houses. At Sarré, I found the civil
+departments were to stop there, and the military to come
+on to this place. My baggage had gone by in part
+before I knew this; and besides that, nowhere could a
+house be found by me. The Spaniards were in possession,
+and firing, plunder, and confusion, were all around;
+I determined, therefore, to come on here, and take my
+chance.</p>
+
+<p>You will advise me to keep well in the rear for safety;
+but the most knowing ones (in which opinion I agree)
+consider the rear as the most unsafe place of any. All
+the vagabonds, plunderers, and rascals—followers of the
+army—stick to the rear, and look about to do mischief
+as soon as all the troops are passed. Besides which, it
+is not clear here that the peasants, who all fly, may not
+return, and knock a few on the head, though at present
+they seem terrified and excessively alarmed. I found no
+quarters for me here; but at a little village close by,
+where there were only the Commissary-general and a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_300">[Pg 300]</span>
+few of his department, I took possession of a deserted
+house, which had been ransacked, and cleaned it out a
+little in one place. Finding abundance of food left for
+my horses for two or three nights, I thought myself well
+off, though I was somewhat alarmed at having possession
+of the last inhabited house on that road, lest any
+straggling attack should be made, or the owners should
+come back in the night. There was, however, no
+alternative. All the immediately useful part of my
+baggage was behind, and never arrived at all, having
+been turned out of the road by a Spanish division.
+Unluckily my neighbours were nearly in the same state.
+Sir Robert Kennedy had barely enough for his own
+eating, and went to bed leaving his servants to do the
+best they could.</p>
+
+<p>H—— had nothing, his baggage not having arrived.
+Mr. H——n had one half-loaf, and that served us all.
+Mr. M——, the storekeeper, had got some mutton for
+Lord Wellington to-day, and he spared us a little bit
+each; so I got one mutton chop, which was very lucky.</p>
+
+<p>Between four and five, Henry went to inquire about
+marching, and, finding no orders, we remained quiet.
+About seven or eight, he found my two stray mules, and
+I got a loaf of bread and some potted butter out of my
+stock, and made my contribution to the party, which
+was very acceptable. I have since been down to head-quarters
+to know what is going on; but can learn
+nothing except that we are ready now to cross the Nive,
+and are prepared for that step; particulars I can hear none,
+for only the clergyman, the doctors, and a straggling
+civilian, with the provost guard, are to be seen.</p>
+
+<p>I returned, therefore, to my deserted, desolate home.
+In my way I found one of the owners of a house here
+who had been shot through the thigh by a Portuguese;
+I got him to an hospital to be dressed, in the church,
+where French, English, and all were lying to wait their<span class="pagenum" id="Page_301">[Pg 301]</span>
+turn, with now and then a dead man. As soon as they
+are dressed, they are packed off to the rear on mules, &amp;c.
+So we go on!</p>
+
+<p>The famous French bulletin has now been seen. Some
+say Bonaparte is at Paris, and some think that he will
+come here. Others have a notion that the people beyond
+Bayonne are ready to join us, if we proceed on. I fear,
+however, the runaways will not encourage this much with
+their exasperated stories of our conduct in their villages.
+To-day is a very fine day again, and will, I hope, assist
+our operations much. It is said that when our officers
+went up to the men in the star fort, to call upon them to
+surrender, the Colonel commanding said, like the governor
+of Pamplona, “Yes, on the terms of parole, not to serve
+for a year and a day.” “No, no,” says the Englishman;
+“<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">prisonnier</i>.” “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Eh bien, donc je ne me rends pas</i>,” says
+the Frenchman. “But you must and shall, or you
+will all be murdered,” says the Englishman, and then
+turned away. Upon which the Colonel very sulkily
+returned and consented; and when his soldiers began to
+rejoice, and to quiz the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">ré papé</i>, and say, dancing about,
+that it was time it should all end, he was most indignantly
+sulky, and has remained so ever since, complaining of
+being sent off to England as a prisoner.</p>
+
+<p>I have now under my window a characteristic scene.
+A short Portuguese lad, bloated out with ration beef,
+with an old French helmet on, a great red grenadier’s
+feather, and an old French uniform jacket and pantaloons,
+with a dragoon broadsword, cutting down cabbages and
+apples in the garden for his brother Portuguese, who
+has his apron ready to receive them, whilst a dirty,
+brown, snuff-coloured Spaniard is looking about on the
+other side with an old French musket trying to shoot
+something eatable.</p>
+
+<p>The mixture of the silence of a deserted village with
+the occasional riotous noise of muleteers and stragglers,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_302">[Pg 302]</span>
+Portuguese and Spaniards, as well as a few swearing
+English, is striking; but to a person not actively
+engaged in what is going on, by which all minor considerations
+vanish in the dangers and anxiety of the scene,
+there is a sameness of misery and starvation, of wounds
+and of death, which, when the novelty of the scene is
+over, becomes very unpleasant, especially without any
+rational companion to talk to on what is passing. This
+appears to be the house of a curé, for there are the
+remains of many comforts, and of some books, chiefly
+religious, some crosses, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>I just now met a man who spoke English tolerably,
+and French well, but would address me in Spanish, to say
+the people were plundering all the flour at the only mill
+in the place which was at work, and he requested a
+guard and wanted the Commandant. I luckily noticed
+by his feather the Superintendent of the provost guard
+entering a house opposite, and procured him a guard
+directly. So that one can be of some use without meddling
+much.</p>
+
+<p>I have just now had a Spaniard at my door to inquire
+how he could get back safe to Spain, as he had wandered
+here alone, and dared not return, and had nothing to eat.
+I have sent him off with a small bit of bread and a
+shilling, and advised him to go and remain near the
+provost guard, and keep with the first escort of prisoners
+which sets out for Spain.</p>
+
+<p>Nearly all the houses about me are empty, and I do
+not much like my situation, but it is just now like that
+of a wife—for better, for worse; so I must submit. I
+do not think we have a hundred men within three miles,
+and not one soldier within half a mile, only commissaries
+and young doctors, and a stray shot is fired every three
+or four minutes. My own muleteers I have just stopped.</p>
+
+<p><em>November 13th.</em>—Here I am still in my solitary abode.
+It has rained all night, and the roads are running watercourses,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_303">[Pg 303]</span>
+which will, it is to be feared, impede our progress.
+All, it is said, however, is going on well. I have not
+seen a creature, or been out; only sent to the Commissary-general,
+my neighbour, to ascertain whether we are not
+to march, lest I should be left behind here. Several of
+the elderly owners of houses have returned, but mine has
+not. Lord Wellington has ordered what forage can be
+regularly used, and collected, to be paid for punctually,
+and I understand has determined to send back at least a
+part of the Spaniards, on account of their abominable
+conduct, Longa’s people in particular. I am not surprised
+at it, but it spoils all our plans. We were admitted
+quietly into St. Jean de Luz, and the inhabitants
+remained there. The mayor offered to exert himself to
+get what he could collected, to supply the troops
+regularly; and Sir John Hope flogged the two first men
+he caught taking some wine—this instantly; so I hope
+that town will be preserved.</p>
+
+<p>We can never do well, if we go on driving all the
+population before us. The few old people left here, and
+who are coming in, speak only Basconee and a little
+Gascon, and no French. There is no making them
+understand anything.</p>
+
+<p>To-day would have been dreadful in the mountains, so
+we have at least that reflection to comfort ourselves with.
+I send enclosed Lord Wellington’s letter to me and
+Count Gazan’s. Pray keep the former, as I shall always
+value it.</p>
+
+<p><em>4 o’clock, afternoon, November 13th.</em>—It has been
+raining so incessantly ever since morning, that I have
+not stirred from my hole, and have, therefore, seen no
+one. I understand that all the grandees were to have
+gone to the front at five this morning, but from the
+state of the weather, they have all stopped at home—not
+for the fear of a wetting themselves, but most likely
+from the impossibility of getting through the country,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_304">[Pg 304]</span>
+and across rivers, when in such a state. It is only wonderful
+how our men got on, as they did up the hills on
+the 12th. It was as much as I could do with my horse
+singly on a slippery clay, either so hard that a horse
+could not stand on it, or so deep that he was up to his
+knees, between the hard places. We are now, however,
+nearly out of the Pyrenees, and I hope the roads will
+mend, but from what I saw of the high road, this is
+doubtful.</p>
+
+<p><em>November 14th.</em>—Still here at St. Fé, so the place is
+called in an excellent old French map. Still rain, and
+nothing new, except that the French have been well
+frightened, and mean, we are told, to quit the new
+position they have taken, with their left on Bayonne, as
+soon as it is attacked; that is, as soon I conclude as the
+roads will permit us to move. The communications here
+are almost as bad as in Spain, and from hence to St. Jean
+de Luz almost impassable. The Marquis of Worcester,
+I have just heard, goes to-day in an hour.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, St. Jean de Luz, November 24th, 1813.</em>—Having
+a little leisure, I begin my weekly journal.
+The weather continues beautiful, and I generally get my
+hour’s walk, and my hour’s ride daily. A brig from
+Dartmouth sold off an immense stock of good English
+moulds yesterday, in the morning, at 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> a pound, by
+order from head-quarters, and about five tons of potatoes,
+besides quantities of porter, ale, beef, cheese, &amp;c. The
+scramble of officers on board to see and buy would have
+astonished you not a little. We have also some good
+white wine.</p>
+
+<p>Since our move from the mountains our men are all
+behaving much better: they were becoming very bad;
+and desertion, even from the English to the French, was
+frequent. The temptation of the old gentleman in the
+high mountains was too much for the men. It has now
+almost ceased. I hope, therefore, when we are a little<span class="pagenum" id="Page_305">[Pg 305]</span>
+quiet, and my arrears are cleared off, that I shall have
+much less to do. The reports here now are that
+Bonaparte’s aide-de-camp is at Bayonne, and that he
+himself is expected. If so we may probably have some
+work to do here again, unless he has been obliged merely
+to show himself here to convince his army that he is
+still alive and well.</p>
+
+<p>We had a little affair yesterday. Some of the light
+division were ordered to drive in the French pickets in
+one place where they were too forward, and our men
+being too zealous, pushed too far. In trying to prevent
+this, a fine officer of the 43rd was taken, and a lieutenant
+badly wounded, and some men lost. The only annoyance
+I suffer at present in my quarters arises from the multiplicity
+of inhabitants, namely, three old women, seven
+children, three dogs, two cats, and a fair allowance of
+fleas, whom this late fine weather has revived. We have
+lately had an arrival at Passages of a hundred and fifty
+oxen from Ireland for the army, and are promised the
+same supply weekly. This will do something; but our
+consumption is, I believe, about a thousand a week. Our
+forage in this nook of France is as bare as in the neighbouring
+parts of Spain; every field is eaten close down,
+and all straw of corn and maize consumed. I sent twelve
+miles for straw yesterday, and the mules have returned
+to-day empty. I mean now to try bruised furze, to mix
+with their Indian corn, so as to hold out until some more
+hay shall reach us from England.</p>
+
+<p><em>November 25th.</em>—I have just heard that about two
+thousand of the inhabitants returned here last night, but
+Soult would not suffer them to carry much with them.</p>
+
+<p><em>November 26th.</em>—There was no time for more yesterday,
+and to-day I have nothing to add. I have still not
+heard anything from you later than the 3rd, but we have
+papers here to the 13th. I cannot understand how this
+has occurred. Through France we have news still later,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_306">[Pg 306]</span>
+and have heard of the surrender of Davoust’s corps at
+Hamburg, on terms of not serving for a year and a day.
+It is to be hoped that the terms may be kept. I had a
+droll <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">malheur</i> again to-day. Riding my pony into the
+sea, into about six inches water, to wash his legs, a wave
+came, the sand gave way, and he sunk up to his middle,
+so that my legs were up to the calf in sand. I jumped
+off, and went over his head to run out, fearing that he
+could not rise. We thus both got safely out. The poor
+pony much more frightened than I was.</p>
+
+<p>I conclude that everything goes on well, for Lord
+Wellington and his gentlemen were out to-day with the
+hounds. He told me that I kept him up reading Courts-martial
+until twelve o’clock at night or one in the
+morning; and this every night. I hope, however, that
+this will not last long. The Prince of Orange has got a
+complaint in his eyes, but I believe only a cold, and he
+seems better. Nearly all our great men except Lord
+Wellington have been ill.</p>
+
+<p>Send me some law news, and good, for Lord Wellington
+expects me to tell him who all the new judges are to be,
+&amp;c., and is very fond of discussing legal subjects. At
+first I was generally right in my speculations: but I
+have now no means of knowing how things are going on
+unless you keep up my credit; it must not be, however,
+by loose reports.</p>
+
+<p>I have a poor young Commissary, B——, under
+charges, who has, I think, been very ill used by a Spanish
+alcalde. I fought his battle with Lord Wellington
+to-day to get him released from arrest. He is very well
+spoken of, and said to support his two sisters. Can he
+be a brother of the Miss B——’s whom you know?
+I detected the Spanish General F—— in a little bit of a
+fib on this subject. His excuse for not answering my
+letter for eight days was, that it had been delayed in the
+post. I complained, and his receipt for the letter was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_307">[Pg 307]</span>
+produced the day after it was sent—this on the back of
+the cover.</p>
+
+<p><em>Sunday, November 29th.</em>—Still no news, and no accounts
+from England. We are all anxiety. I have just
+returned from church at the drum-head, on the sands by
+the sea. Two brigades of guards present in their best,
+and white trousers, &amp;c., and Lord Wellington and his
+staff here. It was rather cold work. The weather is
+beginning to change again, I fear, for rain, just as the
+roads were becoming passable. You have no conception
+how soon fifteen thousand sharp-footed heavy-laden mules
+in rain, cut up a road in this country, even when at first
+tolerably good. We have been amused with Cobbett’s
+attributing all Bonaparte’s misfortunes to his being
+grafted into the old stock. If he can now manage well
+he may, I think, still get his little king Pepin graft to
+thrive in France, and beat Mr. Knight and our gardeners.
+The true cause of all is, however, that the
+<em>morale</em> of the people of Europe is changed. It was
+France, army and people, against mere armies and bad
+governments, whilst all the people in Europe were indifferent
+at the least. This is now reversed; and it is
+now a mere French army against every people and army;
+and Frenchmen at least quite indifferent.</p>
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_308">[Pg 308]</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XVI">CHAPTER XVI.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="fs80" style="margin-left: 2em; text-indent: -2em;">News from France—Lord Fitzroy Somerset—Departure of the Prince of
+Orange—Exchange of Prisoners—Proximity of the two Armies—Wellington’s
+Cooks—Warlike Movements—French Attack—The Guards—-Deserters—More
+Fighting.</p>
+
+<p class="right fs80">
+Head-quarters, St. Jean de Luz,<br>
+<span style="padding-right: 2em">December 2, 1813.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="no-indent">
+<span class="smcap">My dear M——</span>,
+</p>
+
+<p><span style="padding-left: 2em">At</span> last we have got a mail from England. Your
+papers give us little public news, that is, news to us, for
+you have no late accounts from the Allies, and French
+papers we always get sooner this way. Thus we have
+long known of Bonaparte’s arrival at Paris, which you
+only just now communicate to us. Lord Wellington has,
+I understand, news of a rising in Holland; and this has
+been confirmed by our reports through the French, who,
+in conversation with Dashwood yesterday, when he went
+in with a flag-of-truce, and a parcel of women, seemed to
+admit it. We had had this as a report before the arrival
+of the packet, and Major Dashwood therefore tried to
+pump them on the subject. We have also had a report
+here that Admiral Young had taken the Texel fleet; but
+as no news of this sort has reached us from you, we fear
+from dates that this must be all false.</p>
+
+<p>This is only a Passages report from some straggling
+ships, not French news. The deserters who come in also
+from Bayonne, and the returned inhabitants, all state
+that the Italian regiments here have been removed to the
+rear; at least all Italian officers have given up their
+lodgings and have packed up. I think now that<span class="pagenum" id="Page_309">[Pg 309]</span>
+they will scarcely rely much upon the Dutch either, and
+there were some line men and several good officers of
+that nation here. I told you that the only two officers
+who were disinterested, and most uniformly civil to us
+whilst we were prisoners, were two Dutchmen of the
+130th regiment.</p>
+
+<p>The Burgundy side of France (Switzerland being with
+us) is certainly as unguarded as this frontier, except by a
+naturally strong country in places. Strasburg, almost
+the only strong place except our old friends Huningen
+and Kehl, is far removed, and the latter may probably be
+left on one side, but for all this the French Italian army
+must be well disposed of first.</p>
+
+<p>If Lord Charles Somerset deserves promotion as well as
+our Military Secretary here, the grumbling you mention
+against his appointment must be unfounded. The latter
+gets through a great amount of business with little assistance,
+and always quite in public, almost in a common
+coffee or lounging room, in the midst of talking, noise,
+joking, and confusion. The Prince of Orange left us
+yesterday. As he used to be one of the above loungers,
+this put me in mind of him. He has had a complaint in
+his eyes, and could not embark before yesterday, when he
+did so with a fair wind. His arrival, however, and all
+news about him will precede this. The French, yesterday,
+when told that he was going off for England, said,
+“Oh they supposed that it was in consequence of what
+had happened in Holland.” In short, the French seem
+still (as when I was in France and now even more so)
+willing to listen to all bad news against Bonaparte, and
+do not make the least of it at all. All exchange of
+officers here has now, I fear, at last been broken off, and
+angry letters have passed. How fortunate I was! I will
+send in your French Captain Le Fevre’s letter concerning
+his exchange, if an opportunity should offer soon, and it
+is permitted.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_310">[Pg 310]</span></p>
+
+<p><em>Friday, December 3rd.</em>—I find Lord Wellington’s
+news about a Dutch insurrection came to him by a telegraphic
+note from Mr. Croker, dated the 20th ult. This
+is a grand point. Next for Italy, and then we shall do;
+and after twenty-three years of murder, we have a reasonable
+chance of being able to give the military word when
+things go wrong,—“As you were.”</p>
+
+<p>The Prince of Orange, from all appearances here, where
+the sea has been tremendous, must have had a most
+famous passage; but I should think a quick one, as the
+wind has been fair. We have a notion that he has been
+chased by four French frigates which have escaped from
+some French port. I yesterday gave a grand dinner at
+the French café here; the dinner was abundant, and from
+the paucity of materials the variety was surprising. Ten
+dishes for the first course, two removes for the soups; ten
+for the second course, rotis and sweets together; ten for
+dessert; and we were ten in company, and two excuses—dinner
+for twelve. Some dishes were admirable,
+particularly all the patisseries. The champaign excellent;
+Madeira and sherry very fair; port and claret very moderate.
+I am now paying the bill, and the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">tout ensemble</i> is
+forty dollars.</p>
+
+<p>I spoke to Lord Wellington this morning about the
+French Captain’s letter you sent to me. He laughed and
+said, “Yes, when you can, you may send it; but the
+whole matter is now at an end, and your companions are
+all sent to the rear, as Bonaparte has refused to let the
+exchanges take place, unless three French go for one
+British, one Spaniard, and one Portuguese. The old
+squabble in Mackenzie’s negotiation, and though very
+flattering to us as English, very unpleasant to our poor
+prisoners.”</p>
+
+<p>We have a most tremendous sea here—now worse
+than ever. The waves at high-water break every time
+almost over an old wall about twenty feet high on the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_311">[Pg 311]</span>
+beach, and come over the stone walk; they roar most
+furiously, and are beyond anything I have seen. A Paymaster
+here declares that he saw a brig go down, and disappear
+instantly, about nine or ten o’clock yesterday,
+near Andaye. We shall be long, I fear, before we hear
+again from you in England. I do not think that any
+ships will venture near us now, certainly not to Passages
+or here.</p>
+
+<p><em>Post-day, Sunday, 5th December.</em>—The storms have now
+subsided, and the sea has become calmer; but the mischief
+already known has been considerable. The vessel
+which I mentioned was seen to sink got at last into the
+Bidassoa; but four transports, it is said, have been lost
+in Passages harbour, together with several lives. One
+vessel drove into a house and knocked it down; most of
+the shipping there is damaged, and many of the boats
+have been crushed between them. An English merchant-vessel,
+it is reported, also went down at the entrance of
+Bayonne. The air is now colder, almost frosty, with a
+dry wind; the mountains all covered with snow; I only
+hope this may last. No more news from you, and we are
+here in a very odd state—I mean that our armies are.
+A few years back the British were uneasy, in Spain, when
+a French army patrolled within thirty miles of them.
+Now we have all got quietly into quarters—are nearly all
+housed; and three-fourths of us go to sleep tranquilly
+every night, while our front is within sixty yards of the
+French.</p>
+
+<p>Colonel S—— tells me that he went to breakfast with
+Colonel H——, the Assistant Adjutant-general of the
+sixth division, at Ustaritz, and there they were in a house
+with their breakfast-table within about fifty yards of the
+French sentry, and within about two hundred of the
+whole French picket, who, by one volley, might have
+broken all their cups and saucers, if not their heads.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_312">[Pg 312]</span>
+The other day a Portuguese brigade had a field-day close
+to the river in the meadows, and all the French came
+down to look at them, and I have no doubt, from the
+general report, to admire and approve; whilst, on the
+other hand, in the meadows on the French side, the
+French conscripts are brought down to be drilled; sometimes
+five or six squads are seen at once, and any of the
+serjeants might be knocked on the head all the time by
+our sentries; but this is now all well understood, and we
+thus quietly bully or bravado each other.</p>
+
+<p>Another party of inhabitants have come in here—women
+and children; the men Soult detains. We shall
+thus add to our female stock, and to the seven hundred
+Portuguese women and four hundred Spanish, who are
+already in this place and the environs as suttlers, <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">vivanderas</i>,
+washerwomen, &amp;c. In short, here we are in quiet
+winter-quarters, for a time at least, with head-quarters
+within seven miles of the French, and yet we are all so at
+our ease, even in France, that the baggage animals of
+head-quarters are gone now beyond Tolosa, forty miles
+and more to the rear, for straw to feed the horses. Lord
+Wellington told me yesterday there was no forage left
+here; and I suppose so large an army never staid so long
+in these mountains. But yet, if a spring campaign comes,
+no doubt we shall, somehow or other, find all our animals
+forthcoming, and in a state for service.</p>
+
+<p>The Irish oxen sent out for the Commissariat have
+proved very good, excellent in comparison, and are served
+out as a <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">bonne bouche</i>—a pound or two with five or six
+of the country beef. In short, we have occasionally, of
+late, had the London alderman’s cry of more fat. Without
+joking, Lord Wellington’s table is now very good in
+every respect; and I think his aides-de-camp will be ill
+with excess, who have this daily fare (unless there is a
+move), especially if the roads remain too bad for exercise.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_313">[Pg 313]</span>
+Lord Wellington has now three cooks, and an English
+and Spanish chief share the command, and, by dividing
+the days, vie with each other.</p>
+
+<p>More rain, more rain! I am sorry to say. I have just
+seen Lord Wellington; he is much annoyed. A poor
+Commissary under charges has fallen sick. I reported
+that he was at Passages, too ill to move to be tried, and
+that I have two certificates of medical men of the necessity
+of his going to England. Lord Wellington told me
+to tell the Adjutant-general not to let him get away; and
+that if he remained too ill to move, we must try him at
+Passages. It was for violent conduct to another Commissary.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, St. Jean de Luz, December 8th, 1813.</em>—A
+packet is just arrived, and I have letters from you of
+the 22nd ult. and papers to the same date. Letters and
+papers are, however, here by the same vessel to the 25th.
+A most remarkable and astonishing paper!</p>
+
+<p>I hope this fine weather will give us some hay from
+England, for I have now nothing for forage but furze and
+bran by way of substitute.</p>
+
+<p>By this packet came a long letter from ——; they
+want me to ask for Captain ——’s promotion. It is my
+determination not to ask favours, even if I supposed it
+would be of any use. One promising young officer has,
+I trust, been saved by me, by inducing him to make, and
+another to accept, an apology, and Lord Wellington to
+agree to this. He would, otherwise, most probably on
+trial have been broken. My letter ordering the Court to
+meet was taken by the French. This gave time, and
+opened a long correspondence, which has given me much
+trouble; this, however, I shall not regret, if it ends well.
+I must now go and prepare charges against a German
+doctor for to-morrow, and against two Portuguese for a
+highway robbery. So adieu.</p>
+
+<p><em>Thursday, 9th.</em>—All peaceable business has ceased;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_314">[Pg 314]</span>
+and here I am in an enemy’s town quite at ease. All
+the troops advanced about four this morning, and we
+have here only a provost guard of about forty men, a few
+straggling guards, and the muleteers, servants and civilians.
+The French dared not to have remained so in any
+town in Spain, much less in Portugal.</p>
+
+<p>I went out to my morning’s walk on the beach. I
+had it to myself nearly, and heard a sharp firing of
+both guns, and particularly musketry, sounding quite
+close to me. Our present object is, I believe, merely to
+move up our right, for we are much pinched in our
+present position. We are now with our right at Itoasso,
+Espellette, and Cambo, on the Nive; our centre at
+Ustaritz and St. Fé; and our left by Bidart, Ahetze, and
+Arbonne, all on the Spanish or south side of the Nive.
+Our object now is to move up the right, nearly or quite
+to the Adour, most probably, only making a feint at
+Biaritz and Anglet, near Bayonne, on the left, unless
+good fortune puts more in our power. We shall then be
+more at ease, cover more ground, and open a little
+country on the right for our cavalry to get quarters and
+accommodation, at least that part which is still with us
+in front. This, it is believed, is all that is intended at
+present.</p>
+
+<p>Should the report of the French mayor here prove
+correct, or the deputy major rather, for the chief is off,
+namely, that there is an insurrection at Bordeaux, and
+that the Allies are within fifty leagues of Paris, it may
+soon be <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">autre chose</i>; but at present we are only, as I hear,
+taking elbow-room for winter-quarters, and putting ourselves
+in a position to start when advisable. We shall
+also see how the French are disposed to fight, and judge
+a little what forces are gone to the rear. How angry it
+made me to observe the nonsensical reports in England
+of our being not only in Bayonne, but in Bordeaux, and
+this given out formally at the playhouse! To exaggerate<span class="pagenum" id="Page_315">[Pg 315]</span>
+just now is so unnecessary, so unreasonable, and so
+injurious to those who do so much!</p>
+
+<p><em>Three o’clock.</em>—The firing has continued more or less
+the whole day, but has now become more distant, and
+the great guns near Bayonne are heard occasionally. As
+yet, however, no news, except from a wounded guardsman,
+just come in, shot in the hand, who says that the
+Guards are advancing and the French retreating,—I
+conclude into their lines opposite Bayonne. A fleet of
+twelve sail, or perhaps fifteen, in sight. Hurrah! for
+hay and money, we all say! The army is only paid up
+to May, and the staff to April. It rained much in the
+night, which was against our movements, but has nearly
+held up since, though it has just dropped all day.</p>
+
+<p><em>Friday, the 10th.</em>—Lord Wellington did not return
+last night, nor the Adjutant-general and grandees. I
+hear but little except that we crossed the Nive well on
+the right, but did not make much progress in the course
+of the day. On our left we did rather more than I
+expected, and, it is said, pushed on to within a mile of
+Bayonne, with some loss; so we rested last night, and
+we have had constant showers, very heavy at times, ever
+since. This is very much against our arrangements.</p>
+
+<p><em>Four o’clock.</em>—Here I have remained quiet all day,
+but in a fidget, for from eleven o’clock there has been
+continual firing in our front; and, as might be expected,
+though within six or seven miles of us, we have had all
+sorts of reports, some rather alarming—to me at least,
+for I believe Lord Wellington is on the other side of the
+Nive, with our right, and I have not the same confidence
+in any one else, especially as only a part of our army is
+on this side the river. The communication is troublesome,
+and the French have evidently made a push here
+to-day in force, whilst our brigades are all separated.
+The Guards came back here last night to their positions
+and quarters, and the 5th division to Bidart and its<span class="pagenum" id="Page_316">[Pg 316]</span>
+environs. Some Caçadores were surprised, and some
+were made prisoners, and the French showed themselves
+in force in this line, and have pushed us back to our old
+ground before the troops could be collected again.</p>
+
+<p>At two o’clock the firing was so loud, and so near in
+appearance, that I began to look to my baggage, especially
+as an order came from the Guards here to turn out
+again and advance. I have, however, just seen the
+Commissary-general, Sir R. Kennedy, and he says there
+is no danger, for he left the French checked by our
+works on our old position, and met four brigades on the
+road advancing to assist. He was, however, a little surprised
+himself at the end of his ride, to see what was
+going on, for a fire suddenly began across the road where
+he was looking, near our cavalry, and when he turned
+about, our guns began across the other way, and he was
+obliged to get away. One never can be quite secure in
+these attacks.</p>
+
+<p>I am told that a note was taken from the French
+General Gautier to the Duke of Dalmatia, which was
+sent to tell him that a deserter had come in from us at two
+o’clock, and told him of the intended attack yesterday,
+and complaining much of desertion on his side. It is
+very provoking, that our men should betray us in this
+manner; but it seems to have been of no consequence.</p>
+
+<p><em>St. Jean de Luz, Head-Quarters, December 11th, 1813.</em>—From
+report to-day, there were some slight grounds
+for my uneasiness yesterday. The French made a bold
+push with nearly four divisions on the high road. We
+had only one division, or only part of one, at hand ready.
+Some Portuguese in advance were surprised, and lost
+prisoners and baggage. The French regained all that
+they had lost the day before. At about two o’clock they
+made a push at our position. A Portuguese brigade
+suffered very much, and it is said dispersed. An English
+brigade also is reported to have been unlike the rest of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_317">[Pg 317]</span>
+late: that is all I can say. Lord Wellington had heard
+the firing and received intelligence of the attack; he
+came across the river Nive instantly, and halted the
+sixth division on this side, which was going over by
+former orders to act on the other, on the right. The
+fourth was ordered up to support the light division.
+Wellington himself was foremost in trying to rally the
+Portuguese. Both he and his staff were much exposed,
+and had not often, I hear, been in a warmer fire.</p>
+
+<p>The French were induced to attack our redoubts and
+position by their successes and numbers. Our reinforcements
+came up; they were repulsed, driven back with
+loss, and the ground which we had already gained and
+lost once, was nearly all in our possession again last
+night, at the close of day. They talk of a thousand
+wounded, probably more, on our part. We have taken
+some prisoners, and many wounded French; at one time,
+however, a whole regiment of Portuguese, and some
+English also, were nearly being made prisoners. The
+Guards, or as they are called here, “the gentlemen’s
+sons,” were too late, as they had so far to march. They
+will never learn their trade of being killed properly, if
+they are thus nursed up in the rear. Their great
+grievance at present is the order about horses and mules,
+limiting the numbers to the old regulations, on account
+of forage, and allowing subaltern officers only their one
+animal, so that if they ride, they cannot carry anything.
+If they carry baggage, they must walk; and then when
+they come into their quarters, and their real duty
+towards the men commences, they are unfit for anything.
+The regulation is therefore severe, and most think that it
+is unnecessarily so.</p>
+
+<p>On the other hand, the present establishment of the
+Guards is absolutely ridiculous. Every subaltern officer
+has his two or three horses, and his three or four mules,
+as much as any staff-officer ought to have. He carries<span class="pagenum" id="Page_318">[Pg 318]</span>
+his bed out to the guard-house, or picket, and has his
+canteen fit to give a dinner and every luxury, whereas
+one set of canteens per company would, in my opinion,
+be a liberal allowance. Their General has given them
+six weeks to comply with this order, but somehow or
+other they will contrive, probably, to evade it, or they
+will be the most miserable animals in existence. Whilst
+they were in camp, they left one officer with the men in
+camp, and the rest got into houses, whilst in many
+instances at that time even the Generals in other divisions
+commanding brigades, were out under canvas (then
+in the mountains), or at most in huts. Both men and
+officers are only fit for our old style of expedition,—a
+landing, a short march, and a good fight, and then a
+lounge home again. The men were yesterday all sorefooted
+with their march, but at church last Sunday, in
+their white linen pantaloons, they looked in high order;
+and the appearance of the men, the care of their dress,
+their discipline and general good conduct, is admirable,
+when in quiet quarters here.</p>
+
+<p>I met young ——, an ensign in the Guards, yesterday,
+a son of Lord ——. He is a very gentleman-like
+stripling of nineteen, talks of just remembering Sir John
+Moore’s death, as the beginning of his political knowledge,
+and something about General Castanos, and the
+first Spanish publication of Cevallos, but is quite in a
+wilderness when you talk of the old state of Europe
+before the French Revolution. He now principally talks
+of the table, and who gives best wines and dinners, and
+found fault with General ——’s, which I must say
+appeared to me most luxurious, and reminded me of fine
+dinners in London.</p>
+
+<p><em>Ten o’clock.</em>—Hurrah! hurrah! I have just been
+called out to see three small battalions of deserters pass
+by with drums beating, and colours flying, with their
+arms and everything in the highest condition, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_319">[Pg 319]</span>
+clothing nearly new. Two battalions of the regiment
+De Nassau, and one of the regiment De Frankfort, in
+the whole twelve hundred men. This is a grand consequence
+of our push, and must alarm the French not a
+little. I should not be surprised now if we advance
+soon, whatever might have been our former plans.
+Lord Wellington was out again in the front this morning,
+up at three and out in the dark. He returns to
+dinner to-day, and has invited the German Colonels and
+the Majors, six of them, to dinner, to which he means to
+return. He has also desired that they may now have
+their breakfasts, the whole remain in quarters here for
+the night, and proceed to-morrow for Passages, I presume,
+though it is several miles off, as the Spaniards
+occupy all the places between, except Irun, which is
+voted unwholesome and feverish. Irun will scarcely
+give a quarter to an English officer, and not to our
+detachments coming up to join, who have to march
+through here always; so I conclude that they would not
+do more for the Germans who have once served with the
+French. The only drawback to these good tidings is the
+thought of the poor wounded, crawling in, on foot, or on
+cars, and on mules, crying with the pain of the motion.
+It is now quite fine, and I must take my promenade by
+the sea; so, for the present, adieu.</p>
+
+<p><em>Later, the 11th.</em>—Major D—— has found a friend in
+the Colonel of the regiment which came over, and who
+has told him how it happened and was managed. An
+officer from the North had found the way to him (the
+Colonel) all through France, with an order from his real
+sovereign to go over to us, and come and join him. He
+communicated his plan to no one but the Major (one
+Major). They waited their opportunity, and when it
+arose last night, he called the officers together, told them
+his order and his resolution, and proposed it to them, but
+said he should force no one; it must be voluntary. All<span class="pagenum" id="Page_320">[Pg 320]</span>
+agreed—and the men were too happy to join in the plan.
+One officer was sent to give us notice and clear the way,
+and to prevent any resistance or confusion. He was also
+to make terms that they were not to be compelled to
+serve, &amp;c. The officer, however, did not like going back,
+and before any message was sent, over they all came. On
+their arrival here to-day, just out of the town, they halted,
+and put on their best clothes to pass through in parade
+order, and very well they looked I assure you. They
+say that there are many Spanish, and two good regiments
+of cavalry who would probably come over if a pardon
+were held out to them, and that there are a number of
+Dutch all ready to do the same thing, but they are principally
+officers, and are not in a body. They are tumultuous
+and troublesome, and only wait the proper occasion.</p>
+
+<p>The Colonel, K——, has written to Marshal Soult,
+telling him why he came over; that he was ordered so to
+do, and after reminding him that so long as they were
+French, and he with the French, he had done his duty.
+In return, he requests (rather an impudent request) that
+the women and the baggage, or at least the baggage
+soldiers and servants, may be allowed to join the regiments.
+He also asks that his band, which he says was excellent,
+as it was his hobby-horse, and which was of course left
+behind, may be allowed to join the rest. Of this, however,
+he has no hopes, for his band was always a subject of
+considerable jealousy to the French before he left them,
+and he is sure they will keep it now for themselves.</p>
+
+<p>I also hear that our staff officers were obliged to exert
+themselves very much in consequence of the dispersion of
+the Portuguese, and the reluctance of some of our own
+forces. Colonel Delancey took one colour, and rode on
+before the regiments to carry them on. General Hope
+was much exposed, and got two blows; one on the shin,
+and one on his side, but of no consequence. General
+Pakenham had a horse shot under him—his best charger.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_321">[Pg 321]</span>
+General Robinson is shot through the body; a bad wound.
+Two of General Sir S. Cotton’s officers, his aide-de-camps,
+who were there as amateurs, suffered. One coming home
+was shot in the thigh. Many others had narrow escapes,
+and Lord Wellington remained exposed, untouched!
+This is really wonderful.</p>
+
+<p>To-day again there was some fighting, but only on our
+left, a sort of trial of the French strength. We lost, I
+hear, however, several men, particularly of the 9th. On
+the whole, with wounded and sick, we shall be much
+reduced by this week’s work, and I still think can scarcely
+advance safely any further, unless you send men here instead
+of to Holland, or unless we can get a good corps of
+Spaniards to join us under officers who will keep them in
+order. O’Donnell, the Condé D’Obisbal, is come up again,
+and will do, for he will hang his men until he gets order
+and obedience. Lord Wellington has also got his full
+powers renewed by the Spaniards, and may now perhaps
+try them once more, if tempted to advance after what has
+happened.</p>
+
+<p><em>Sunday, 12th December, 3 o’clock.</em>—Every one has
+gone out again, but nothing expected to be done to-day.
+The French attacked us after sunset last night in force,
+in hopes, probably, of catching us napping again, and
+getting more baggage, but it did not succeed. The
+Germans are kept here to-day. My first letter, up to the
+11th, I have sealed and sent, and keep this open in case
+of more news, for which I must hunt, and then come in
+and finish this, and after dinner divide my prize maps of
+this canton, and of the whole seat of the northern war—French
+maps of this year; great prizes. For the present,
+adieu.</p>
+
+<p><em>Five o’clock.</em>—More fighting again to-day. The French
+columns appeared, and we threw some shells amongst
+them. This brought on a quarrel, and we skirmished
+sharply for a long time; the Guards were principally<span class="pagenum" id="Page_322">[Pg 322]</span>
+concerned; the Adjutant killed, Lieutenant-colonel, and a
+Captain. I hear of no advantage gained on either side—mere
+fighting. Our entrenching tools are sent for, so
+I suppose we are going to make ourselves snug to remain
+quiet.</p>
+
+<p><em>Six o’clock.</em>—No more news, and no more fighting, but
+I have just heard that Lieutenant-colonel D—— W——
+is shot in the head, and some say killed; some contradict
+it altogether. I had told Miss W that he was well,
+in a letter just gone to the post. The Paymaster-general
+and several amateurs got suddenly into fire without intending
+it the other day. It is better now to stay at
+home, for one fight is much like any other, and I have
+now seen some of the best which are likely to happen.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_323">[Pg 323]</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XVII">CHAPTER XVII.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="fs80" style="margin-left: 2em; text-indent: -2em;">French Attack—Plan of Desertion—Excesses of the French—A Basque
+Witness—Sir John Hope—Movements of the Army—Sale of Effects—Wellington’s
+Simplicity of Character—A French Emigré—Return of
+Soult to Bayonne.</p>
+
+<p class="right fs80">
+Head-quarters, St. Jean de Luz,<br>
+<span style="padding-right: 2em">December 14, 1813.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="no-indent"><span class="smcap">My dear M——</span>,
+</p>
+
+<p><span style="padding-left: 2em">As</span> every one is still in the front, and I have now
+but a few letters to write on business, I shall proceed in
+writing to you, and, if possible, send this by the delayed
+packet. Yesterday morning, the French were, I believe,
+to have been attacked again in our front, in order to drive
+them back into Bayonne. In the morning, however, they
+were off, and had disappeared from the disputed ground,
+and only appeared in the Bayonne works. This made us
+suspect an attack from them on General Hill, who was
+on our right, with only some Portuguese, and his two
+divisions on the other side of the Nive. Reinforcements
+were ordered accordingly, and all the grandees and amateurs
+went that way. So it turned out; the French came
+in large masses and attacked us there, just as we were
+moving about in our position.</p>
+
+<p>At first they drove the Portuguese brigade there back
+from a knoll. They rallied, however, returned, and recovered
+it. By that time the rest of the two divisions
+were up ready, and the French came on in more force.
+The attack now became general along the line, and the
+French were beaten back on all sides with very considerable<span class="pagenum" id="Page_324">[Pg 324]</span>
+loss, and without the reinforcements, which were not
+in time. I know no particulars at all, for Lord Wellington
+did not return last night to this place; but some
+who did, say that the French were very thick, as they
+came forward in such masses, and some of their own disheartened
+prisoners talk of four thousand men and more
+as their loss. These daily desperate attacks, first on their
+right and then on their left, and the accounts given by
+the German Nassau officers, make me suspect very much
+that Soult will after this be off altogether further to the
+rear after having obeyed his order, by a desperate attempt
+to drive us back into Spain again. I hear that he wrote
+to Lord Wellington before these five days’ fighting, to say
+that we must positively quit France, and that, to save
+bloodshed, he wished Lord Wellington would retire of
+his own accord. I did not learn this, however, from the
+very best authority.</p>
+
+<p>The day before yesterday I met at dinner the Major of
+the Nassau regiment, a very pleasant gentleman-like man,
+aide-de-camp to the Prince, and the very officer who
+brought the secret verbal orders to the Colonel K——
+to take the steps he has done. The Major arrived six
+weeks ago, but they never found the opportunity until
+now. Similar orders are gone to another battalion with
+Marshal Suchet, and to a corps of Nassau cavalry there,
+and we have sent word to our army on that side to endeavour
+to let them know that these three battalions
+have succeeded. The whole was very near failing even
+this time: he gave us all the particulars.</p>
+
+<p>The French towards evening thought things were not
+going on quite well, and ordered up all the reserves.
+Amongst the rest were three battalions, and that of
+Baden, which lately had been kept much in the rear.
+When they were all retiring towards their quarters again
+at dusk, General Villette (Colonel Downie’s old enemy),
+who commanded the reserve, was obliged to retire to the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_325">[Pg 325]</span>
+rear being wounded. He left orders with a stupid old
+General who succeeded him in command. The Colonel
+of the Nassau regiment was directed by the old man to
+retire along the great road. He represented the numbers
+going that way and the delay, and proposed a side road.
+The old man said, “Well, you will do your best.” The
+Colonel then thought all would do, and was about to
+march off, when up came the 34th regiment, all French,
+and their commanding officer said, “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Monsieur le Colonel,
+j’ai mes ordres de vous suivre sur votre route</i>.” This was
+most perplexing. The Colonel then made an imaginary
+obstacle at the head of the column, and desired the men
+to file one by one slowly. This tired the patience of the
+French, who had been out all day. The Colonel then
+proposed his plan to the officer commanding the Baden
+regiment. To which he replied, that he had received no
+orders from his Sovereign, and, after hesitating a little,
+declined. Colonel K—— then ordered him to take
+another road, and told the French, as they must divide
+to get home at all, they had better follow the Baden regiment.
+The French 34th did so; and the others soon
+began to incline towards the English, firing away, however,
+but in the air, to deceive any who might be observing
+them. They soon found themselves near enough
+to send in the officer first, and the regiment followed in
+spite of some shots from our people. The astonishment
+of many, who not being in the secret, found themselves
+within the English picket, and fancied they were all
+about to be made prisoners, was very considerable; and
+their joy was as great when they were told the true state
+of things.</p>
+
+<p>The Major told us that they had seen constant service
+in Spain, that their Sovereign’s contingent for Spain was
+about two thousand men, but that the French kept it up
+whenever they could to nearly three thousand, and more
+at times. He was at Talavera, and the bugle of one of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_326">[Pg 326]</span>
+the battalions which sounded as they left, and marched
+through, was English, and I understand was taken from
+us at the battle of Talavera. He confessed the horrors
+committed in Spain was “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Nous autres</i>” (as he was constantly
+expressing himself), forgetting that he was no
+longer French, and then correcting himself, said, “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">par
+les Français</i>.” He said that it was a practice when the
+orders were issued to plunder and burn places which had
+been deserted by their inhabitants, to make a great fire
+near the place so as to make the inhabitants think a battle
+was about to begin, and lead them to retire to some spot
+near, out of the way of the fire, but never intending to
+desert their homes. The troops then voted it a deserted
+town, and begun first to pillage, then to burn. He described
+the French army as being now about fifty-five
+thousand men, after this affair, of which, however, only
+about twenty-two or twenty-three thousands were soldiers,
+that is veterans; the rest raw recruits and conscripts, of
+which Bayonne was full; and there you might now see,
+he said, even the blind and the lame compelled to come
+forward and serve.</p>
+
+<p>He said they were ill supplied with everything, and
+had no forage at all; that one great store of biscuit
+was spoilt in the church at Bayonne; and that the roads
+in the rear were so bad that hardly any supplies could
+arrive but by the river—at least not without the
+greatest difficulty and labour; that the Dax and Tartas
+roads were infamous, and the one I went by, Peyrorade
+and Orthes, very bad. Allowance must be made, I
+think, in regard to these accounts.</p>
+
+<p>Soult was enraged with the inhabitants for wishing
+to return home within our lines, and was much provoked
+at our not having behaved much worse in this
+country. I have also understood from officers who
+went with flags-of-truce, that the French are excessively
+angry with their women for all desiring to come here<span class="pagenum" id="Page_327">[Pg 327]</span>
+to us. The Mayor of Biaritz, I believe, is denounced,
+having given us assistance, and ordered to be seized
+as soon as discovered. The French were two or three
+days since in one attack actually in his garden, but
+could never get into his house. Of course he had removed
+many of his goods, and was on the alert. He
+has had a picket always in his house, and been very
+liberal. Near that house our guns and the French
+were within three hundred yards of each other, but
+neither could get at the opponent on account of the
+formation of the ground. There was a small wood in
+the neighbourhood, which was a strong point. Lord
+Wellington, &amp;c., have just returned. I must go and
+pick up news.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, St. Jean de Luz, December 15th, 1813,
+Wednesday.</em>—We are now all returned to our civil
+business again, and I have just been to the Adjutant-general
+and Lord Wellington, as usual, to congratulate
+them on their safety, at the same time to make my
+reports, and receive fresh instructions.</p>
+
+<p>All the reports confirm the account that the French
+got a severe beating on our right the day before yesterday,
+and that our loss was not that day so severe in
+comparison with the other affair on our left. Our
+present position is close round the French and Bayonne,
+in a semicircle from the sea to the Adour. The advanced
+posts being from the front of Biaritz and Anglet,
+on the sea on our left, and so through Arcamgues,
+Arrauntz, on the Nive, the centre, where our boat-bridge
+is, and then through Monguerre, Petit, and
+Vieux, to La Home, on the Adour, on our extreme
+right. Some alarm us by a report that head-quarters
+are to be moved in consequence to Ustaritz, as being on
+the Nive, and more central, and near the bridges. We
+all, however, hope otherwise. Some Spaniards are come
+on now also, and more cavalry are ordered up. Our<span class="pagenum" id="Page_328">[Pg 328]</span>
+abode here has quite spoiled us for the wretched places
+we must crowd into at Ustaritz, down in a muddy hole,
+with the roads almost impassable around it.</p>
+
+<p>Unless you have a good map, you will find but few of
+the places mentioned by me, and yet I have omitted two
+or three in the circle.</p>
+
+<p>[The places were all found in old maps by Robert,
+a French geographer.]</p>
+
+<p>I must go to work to draw charges, so adieu.</p>
+
+<p>There is a most eloquent French, or, rather, Basque
+witness here, who has been robbed, and whom I am
+keeping here to give evidence. He pays me daily visits,
+and acts over the scene in question, and several others,
+in very high style. The Basques are as proud as our
+Welsh of their antiquity, and when asked if they are
+French say, “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Oh, que non Basque</i>.” He tried to insinuate
+himself into my favour, by reminding me that
+this country was once all English, and that the inhabitants
+had still the memory of that, and favourable
+feelings accordingly.</p>
+
+<p>Sir John Hope was, including his dress, touched in
+seven places, besides a shot in his horse, and through
+his large hat. The skin wound, though slight, is
+the only wound that gives him pain. Lord Wellington
+blames him for exposing himself; with what face I
+know not.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, St. Jean de Luz, December 16th, 1813.</em>—Though
+you will have heard from me by the detained
+mail, which went yesterday, you will expect something
+by the next, so I begin my work in time; concluding
+that it will go Sunday as usual again. I have just
+heard that the packet which went from hence the 22nd,
+with our letters to the 21st of November, was found
+deserted at sea, and letters, &amp;c., supposed to be taken, or
+most likely sunk. I sent you two long letters by that
+packet, with a plan of my house here, and sketch of it,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_329">[Pg 329]</span>
+and the largest proportion of prize Spanish maps, taken
+at Vittoria; begging you to keep them, and those that
+come after, safely. It was in that letter that I told
+you of my narrow escape at St. Fé from being shot
+through the head by a dragoon whilst I was writing.
+The ball went between my pen and my nose, and
+where my head had been two seconds before: one cheek
+was spattered by the door splinters, and the other by
+the wall plaster where the ball struck.</p>
+
+<p>We have just got a most alarming report, as far as
+comfort is concerned, namely, that we are to move to
+a little dirty village, called Arrauntz, on the Nive,
+worse almost than Frenada, with the exception of one
+good house, where roads are impassable—almost up to
+the knees in mud. I believe this was certainly determined,
+but Colonel Campbell told me just now he
+believed the order was deferred; I hope so most sincerely,
+for we are here rather in a state of civilization
+and comfort.</p>
+
+<p>I dined yesterday at head-quarters, and who should
+I meet but Count de Gazan’s <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">ci-devant</i> aide-de-camp,
+a fine gentleman-like young man, with whom I dined
+at Count Gazan’s house at that time, Lord Wellington’s
+now. He was then very civil to us. We dined yesterday
+in his <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">ci-devant</i> apartment. He was about to
+join Marshal Victor in the north, as his aide-de-camp,
+when I last saw him; but being promoted to a chef-de-battalion,
+this induced him to stop and take the
+command. It answers to our Lieutenant-colonel; and
+he commanded a battalion against General Hill in the
+last attack. Finding his men running away too fast,
+he kept in the rear to encourage them, and give them
+confidence; stayed there too long, and, in a word, was
+caught and taken prisoner. He is a tall, stout, good-looking
+man of twenty-eight, and speaks English well,
+having been in England some time before for education.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_330">[Pg 330]</span></p>
+
+<p>I gave him a good breakfast this morning before he
+set out for Passages, got him a letter to the principal
+Commissary at Passages, and handed him my father’s
+direction at Somerset House; desiring him to let him
+know where he is ultimately quartered in England, and
+whether my father could serve him in any way in London.
+So be prepared for a letter some time hence from
+my French acquaintance. He is a staunch Frenchman
+in everything, but I do not like him the worse for that,
+or for avowing it openly.</p>
+
+<p>He told me that we were not quite so secure in Holland,
+and that we were not near a peace, but had much
+yet to do to obtain such a one as we required, for
+Bonaparte was ambitious and unreasonable, and we were
+unreasonable also. In some respects I agree, and only
+hope the Allies will continue moderate. I offered him
+money, but he said he had lost nothing, and did not
+require it, and declined any assistance. He said, at the
+moment he was vexed that our men did not plunder him,
+as he knew his own people would have done so by us.
+He seems a shrewd fellow, and was therefore ordered off
+directly from hence.<a id="FNanchor_7" href="#Footnote_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a></p>
+
+<p>Lord Wellington looks thin, but was in high spirits
+yesterday. We have more artillery and ammunition
+passing up to-day to the front, and, I hear, they are
+making works to strengthen our position, and to be
+prepared against any other desperate attack. This may
+be only Lord Wellington’s usual prudence, as it does
+not look like a move further in advance. Other circumstances,
+however, do rather look like a movement
+forwards, and the strengthening this position may be
+either for the present security, or for a position to retire
+to in case of accidents, as we have now two rivers in our
+rear; or, which may be most likely, for both. The fact<span class="pagenum" id="Page_331">[Pg 331]</span>
+is, we have above twelve hundred men digging away,
+and artillery is going up.</p>
+
+<p>My French witness here tells me a friend has just
+arrived from Bayonne, who informs him, that whilst
+the movements were going on some days since, Marshal
+Soult told the leading people of Bayonne, that all who
+intended to move their valuables to the rear should do
+so by water immediately, if at all, as circumstances
+might soon make it impossible for them to do so by
+water, and the road would be entirely required by the
+military in certain events. This does not look like much
+confidence.</p>
+
+<p><em>Friday, December 17th, three o’clock, and Sunday, December
+19th, Post-day.</em>—A report of more work on the
+right, and we fancy we have heard much firing. Lord
+Wellington is gone off. If matters have not gone on
+well, or the horses get tired, we shall have a move yet, I
+fear very soon; but hope otherwise most sincerely, that
+is, if it be a move of head-quarters only. A forward
+movement of the army will be another matter, as it will
+prove to me Lord Wellington thinks something is to be
+done by it. Our cavalry is moving up fast. This looks
+like a movement. It spreads out by Cambo on our
+right. I am also assured by a French officer here in our
+service in the Quarter-Master-general’s department, that
+the French cavalry are fast filing to the rear, and have
+already passed Mont de Marsan, my former abode; and
+that many of the old soldiers are from necessity sent
+back to Bordeaux to compel some refractory conscripts
+there to move, for they are a little wilful. He also told
+me that the loss of the French (desertion included) in the
+late affairs last week, was, in the whole, about thirteen
+thousand men. He is, however, a sanguine man; remember
+that. We are also said to have taken two or
+three boats on the Adour, above Bordeaux.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, St. Jean de Luz, five o’clock, Sunday,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_332">[Pg 332]</span>
+December 19th, 1813.</em>—I have just come from the sea-side,
+where we can now scarcely stand for the wind, and
+are, on the high walk, quite wet with the spray. A
+violent gale of some hours has caused this, and I have
+been watching a vessel off here for a long time which has
+been in considerable danger, but is at last safe in Sacoa
+harbour. She was most uneasy at sea, made signals of
+distress, and the pilot-boats ventured out, and by their
+help and working hard with the capstan on an anchor
+carried out, she has at last worked her way in.</p>
+
+<p>I met yesterday at dinner Colonel Barnard, who was
+lately shot through the body. Colonel Rooke is dead.
+I feared it must be so, from what was told me yesterday.
+He could not eat anything, grew rapidly weaker, and
+the suppuration formed a mass clear through his body
+from one orifice of the wound to the other, and not
+properly round the ball so as to facilitate the extraction
+of it. Lieutenant-colonel West is well. I saw him
+to-day: he was not touched. The report of his being
+killed arose from his having sent a horse to the rear—I
+believe to walk. At the sale of the late Captain Watson’s
+effects, I bought a very tolerable saddle, with
+holsters, about half worn, for eighteen dollars, which is
+here considered cheap. I bid 15<em>s.</em> for a curry-comb and
+brush, bad, but of English make, and in England worth
+about 3<em>s.</em> or 4<em>s.</em>—it went for a guinea! I also bid for a
+Suffolk punch horse as high as two hundred dollars, but
+Major Daring outbid me, though it was certainly very
+dear. Captain Watson was of the Guards.</p>
+
+<p>A party of Bayonne sailors have just arrived here I
+am told, who have come over to us. Bayonne envies
+this place now. If we stay, and have money, things will
+come in here soon from the French, for the geese they
+bring in sell for four dollars instead of 4<em>s.</em> before we came,
+and so with other things; we have also got some good
+French cattle to eat.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_333">[Pg 333]</span></p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, St. Jean de Luz, December 21st, 1813.</em>—The
+furious stormy weather continues, with almost
+continual rain, attended yesterday by a most violent clap
+of thunder; such repeated gusts of wind I scarcely ever
+witnessed. The inhabitants say, that it will last so long
+as we have the wind from the sea. At the same time
+it is not at all cold, and I have no fire except when I
+have been caught in the wet, and am very damp.
+This happens if you stir for five hundred yards, as
+the rain comes with a gust in a few seconds. The
+thermometer in my room, without a fire, has been
+constantly almost above temperate, and at times above
+sixty. We are at present all quiet again here, and invitations
+are flying about for Christmas dinners on Saturday
+next.</p>
+
+<p>Marshal Soult is angry with the inhabitants for being
+friends with us. He is now circulating proclamations
+on our right, exhorting the people to form Guerilla corps
+and to turn brigands. If we continue to behave well,
+he will not easily persuade them to do this. The
+Spaniards who demand rations and contributions against
+orders, and are not so orderly as they might be (the few
+that are in France, that is), may perhaps provoke them
+to arms, but I hope not. We now go about the roads
+here as safely as in Spain; the only marauders indeed
+are the followers of our own army and runaway
+Spaniards and muleteers. Our own army is behaving
+particularly well, and now give me a little leisure occasionally.</p>
+
+<p>To my great joy to-day, and still more, I suspect, to
+that of my horses, I have got a good truss of English
+hay—140 lbs. weight. This is a treasure. But to
+balance good and evil, the Commissary has given us no
+corn during the last three days. So we go on! Many
+of the cavalry horses get neither, so we must submit.</p>
+
+<p>In spite of the rough weather, we yesterday got a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_334">[Pg 334]</span>
+packet and English mail, and I received a letter from you
+of the 6th and 7th December, and papers from the 4th to
+the 7th. You confirm our accounts of the loss of the
+mail of the 21st November, and of two letters of mine to
+you. I only hope they are sunk, though I recollect
+nothing particular in them.</p>
+
+<p>I have no doubt —— plays the great man very well,
+and puts on all the dignity of a Jack in office. He likes
+the thing, and has a turn for humbug, of which there is
+so much all over the world in every line, and which
+is often of such infinite use to those who can adopt it. I
+think it very tiresome, and only rejoice that it is not the
+fashion here at head-quarters. From Lord Wellington
+downwards, there is mighty little. Every one works
+hard, and does his business. The substance and not the
+form is attended to; in dress, and many other respects, I
+think almost too little so. The maxim, however, of our
+Chief is, “Let every one do his duty well, and never let
+me hear of any difficulties about anything;” and that is
+all he cares about. I suppose one should fall by degrees
+into a love of representation, and keeping one’s self up
+in the world, as it is called (by those who have not
+much else to float them), by habit and practice. I must
+say, hitherto, I continue to think it far best to be able to
+do what you please, as you please, and when you please,
+provided that nothing is ever done which in the least
+approaches to a shabby or ungentleman-like action—so
+that the opinion of those whose opinion is worth having
+is secured. The sort of incense which is often obtained
+from the silly majority through exterior humbug is not
+worth the price at which it is purchased. My vanity
+takes a different turn, and I pique myself upon other
+things.</p>
+
+<p>I attended another sale yesterday of Colonel Martyn’s
+effects. It was quite ridiculous to observe the price at
+which some old things sold. Two second-hand nightcaps,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_335">[Pg 335]</span>
+which cost about 1<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> each new in England,
+fetched 13<em>s.</em> This results partly from distress, partly
+from fun in the bidders. Old towels 5<em>s.</em> each; blankets
+25<em>s.</em> I always feel hurt at seeing all an officer’s stock
+sold in this way, even to his ragged shirts and stockings,
+tooth-brushes, &amp;c.; everything ransacked. This was
+very near being my case, also, when I was taken prisoner.
+Mr. Jesse’s stock was sold, and he is not a little
+distressed in consequence. I have received a note from
+Lieutenant-colonel E—— to dine with him on Christmas-day,
+and have accepted, though probably I shall lose
+a great party at Lord Wellington’s by so doing, for he
+generally asks heads of departments on those days. I
+own, however, that I prefer his smaller parties, when
+fewer grandees are there, and Lord Wellington talks
+more and we drink less. A great party is almost always
+stupid, unless there is good singing or good speechifying;
+and I have now seen all the lions likely to be there.
+By-the-by, our Spanish lions carry their heads wonderfully
+erect now, and are prouder than any peacocks; or
+rather, I might say, they are now true Spaniards.</p>
+
+<p>Yesterday I dined at Lord Wellington’s, and had
+another adventure. I recognised an emigré friend at
+Mont de Marsan, of whom I had been, during my stay
+there, very shy, fearful lest a malicious report should get
+about that I was intriguing with the royalists. I reminded
+him of his questions, &amp;c., and of his speaking to
+me several times, and I now explained myself and conduct.
+He was much surprised at seeing me in my red
+coat, but immediately recollected me, and said I had
+given him then all the information he wanted. My
+answers were short, but all true, certainly. He has
+brought some congratulations to the Comte de Grammont
+from the persons now on his <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">ci-devant</i> estates, and
+their wishes for old times and old landlords. He had<span class="pagenum" id="Page_336">[Pg 336]</span>
+got some money here, and is, I suppose, to go to work
+somehow for the good cause. He is very sanguine; but
+though I like and respect the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">emigrés</i>, I always mistrust
+their view of things.</p>
+
+<p>A foolish Portuguese, who was sentenced to be shot,
+escaped three days ago, and was off; but like a fool, he
+boasted in Spain of his performances, was in consequence
+retaken, and to-day is to be hung.</p>
+
+<p><em>December 26th, Post-day.</em>—Another of my French
+friends came in from Bayonne yesterday—the principal
+banker at Bayonne, who gave me money for my bill;
+was so friendly to us all and to me in particular, and for
+whom I loaded my pockets so quietly with so many
+letters, above a hundred in number. He has ostensibly
+come to receive the 110<em>l.</em> still due to him from five of
+our officers, and which Lord Wellington intended to send
+him on my representation: but he has also obtained leave
+from Soult to supply us with claret, &amp;c., and is partly
+come about that. The French, I conclude, are compelled
+to try this method of making a little money; and Marshal
+Soult being, no doubt, ill-paid, will go halves in the
+profit. I suspect my friend, however, may have further
+views also, as he is a Spanish and English merchant as
+well as banker, and of course a decided enemy to Berlin
+and burning decrees, and to war in general, which is now
+nearly synonymous with being an enemy to Bonaparte.
+Lord Wellington sent him to the Commissary-general
+to talk matters over.</p>
+
+<p>We have been all quiet here this week, except a little
+cavalry skirmish on our right. The French cavalry, I
+hear, had driven in some of Don Murillo’s Spaniards,
+with Hill, in that quarter, and two squadrons of our
+18th Hussars were ordered to drive the French back.
+This they did, as they were ordered, without loss, but as
+usual would do more, and pushing hastily on fell in with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_337">[Pg 337]</span>
+the French infantry support, which is generally near at
+hand to the cavalry advance, got a volley or two, and
+lost a captain and several men in consequence.</p>
+
+<p>Our people will suppose that the French lurk about
+the country without system or order as they do; whereas,
+however cowed and beaten they may be, the system,
+order, and habitual rules, remain.</p>
+
+<p>Some more of Don Carlos d’Espagne’s troops filed up
+from Irun yesterday, and turning off about a mile short
+of this place, went through Ascain towards our right—about
+five thousand in the whole. Several of Murillo’s
+people are put under arrest by Lord Wellington for
+misconduct. They complain that the men get sick in
+consequence, to which he replies, “Then behave better,
+and that will not be the case.”</p>
+
+<p>Some of our artillerymen have by accident burnt one
+of the best of the few remaining houses at St. Sebastian,
+worth twenty thousand dollars the Spaniards say, and
+about to be let for six hundred dollars a-year. This will
+be quite convincing to the Conciso at Cadiz, and perhaps
+to the regency, that we burnt the town on purpose, and
+are now finishing our job. It is unlucky to give this
+handle to these most unconquerably jealous Spaniards,
+and already the engineers and few English at St. Sebastian
+are most unpopular. The weather is now much
+improved, and has turned to frost for the first time this
+month, which improves our roads, our spirits, and our
+prospects. The sea, however, has been for these last two
+days tremendous, and washed over the stone bulwark
+where we walk, and has cut off our supply of corn these
+three days from Passages. I was yesterday caught there
+when walking with General Pakenham and General
+Murray: the Quarter-Master-general ran one way, the
+Adjutant-general and I another; the former escaped,
+and so did the latter and I, though the foam and surf
+burst upright, close to us, above our heads, and then<span class="pagenum" id="Page_338">[Pg 338]</span>
+washed our legs midway up; but the force was broken,
+and we were not moved, only wetted. The natives and
+many of our officers think this roaring ocean predicts
+more bad weather here again, but I hope it only proves
+a storm some two hundred miles off in the main ocean,
+as I have always observed there is little connexion here
+between our land-storms and the state of the sea, which
+seems to be moved by other causes, of which probably
+one is the agitation caused by the flood spring-tides.</p>
+
+<p><em>Monday.</em>—Marshal Soult has returned again to Bayonne.
+Lord Wellington, &amp;c., are all out with the
+hounds.</p>
+<br>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_7" href="#FNanchor_7" class="label">[7]</a> He made no application to Mr. Larpent’s family, nor did he call at
+Somerset House.</p>
+
+</div>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_339">[Pg 339]</span></p>
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XVIII">CHAPTER XVIII.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="fs80" style="margin-left: 2em; text-indent: -2em;">Reports from France—More Desertion—Anecdote of General Stewart—Wellington
+and his Casualty Returns—The Courtesies of War—Scarcity
+of Transports—Wellington and the Trial-Papers—Sir G. Collier.</p>
+
+<p class="right fs80">
+Head-quarters, St. Jean de Luz,<br>
+<span style="padding-right: 2em">January 1, 1814.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="no-indent"><span class="smcap">My dear M——</span>,
+</p>
+
+<p><span style="padding-left: 2em">Many</span> happy new years to you and all your
+party! We are now quite quiet here, and have no news
+to communicate. We have repeatedly received reports
+of the arrival of an English mail, but it never comes.
+This may, however, arise from our having had three of
+the vessels at once on this side of the water.</p>
+
+<p>You will be surprised to hear that I had an old French
+woman, and a young Spanish girl to breakfast with me
+this morning, on their way through to Bayonne, from
+Bilboa. I had made arrangements for six mules, and an
+ox-car to carry their baggage, but they mistook the tide
+in their directions, and the baggage is only just arrived,
+so that they cannot go until to-morrow. They are the
+wife and mother of a Monsieur Dabedrille, at Bayonne,
+<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">ci-devant</i> principal <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Directeur de l’Octroi de Bilboa</i>, who
+fled so quickly after the battle of Vittoria, that he left
+all his baggage and females behind him. He was very
+civil to Colonel Fitzgerald, who had undertaken to
+obtain for him the restoration of his wife; and as the
+Colonel was not exchanged, I undertook it, got Lord
+Wellington’s leave, and here they are, so far on their<span class="pagenum" id="Page_340">[Pg 340]</span>
+way safe. Not having just now much business, I have
+had time to attend a little to these good ladies, and they
+are really very pleasant and well-bred, but just now the
+worse for having been six days on board a Spanish
+coaster (of Bilboa), to get here.</p>
+
+<p>We have just now got beautiful weather, clear frosty
+mornings—that is, white frost, the ground just crisp, a
+little fog early, and a cool breeze from the Pyrenees,
+from the south-east, and a bright sun during the day.</p>
+
+<p>The only news we have here is a report of the defeat
+of Davoust, through the French, and an account which
+General Wimpfen has just given me of the Austrians
+having taken possession of Switzerland. The French
+here are hard at work, drilling conscripts, who arrive in
+considerable numbers, and turning up the ground as
+usual in all directions. I suppose we shall also, as usual,
+wait until they have nearly done their task, and by that
+time, when the ground is dry, turn them out of their
+laborious defences. It is quite extraordinary how all
+their former position was covered with the effects of
+their labour.</p>
+
+<p>The inhabitants continue to come in here to us every
+day, and now by degrees we get cattle, &amp;c., from them.
+Desertion from the French has also been common, five
+or six men a-day, and many French, not Germans, young
+lads, sick of their work. I now hear that the Swiss have
+declared against France; that is one step more gained,
+if true. An officer, who was prisoner at Bayonne, on the
+13th, the day of General Hill’s affair on the right, states,
+that the French were most sanguine that morning at
+Bayonne; they said that two of our divisions were
+caught in a trap, and that they would, General and all,
+be taken prisoners. They were quite in spirits, but
+towards evening, when the officer inquired where our
+General was, he could get no one to answer him, or talk
+on the subject. All were sulky. Report says also that<span class="pagenum" id="Page_341">[Pg 341]</span>
+Soult is gone again, and farther back; some say that he
+has been sent for to Paris.</p>
+
+<p>One of the hay vessels, bringing hay to us, in order to
+plague us, had got into Bayonne, and the French officers
+at the outposts taunt us, by saying that they find
+English hay very good. This is very provoking, for in
+consequence of this we have now nothing again to give
+our animals.</p>
+
+<p><em>Sunday, Post-day.</em>—I understand that there is no
+packet as yet at Passages, to go with the letters. I
+have, after three hours’ trouble, packed off my party this
+morning; four great trunks, two old women, and one
+young one, in an ox-car; and four more large trunks,
+and a quantity of bedding, and <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">et ceteras</i> of all kinds, on
+four mules; and one lady and a man-servant, on horseback.
+My old French woman, now she is safe out of
+Spain, does nothing but abuse the Spaniards, their language,
+their manners, their country, and, above all, their
+stupidity in society.</p>
+
+<p>I must now return to the work of drawing charges,
+which must be done immediately. I hope there is not
+another task for me now passing my window, for there is
+an uproar, and seven Spanish prisoners going along
+bound to the provost guard.</p>
+
+<p>We have now established a sort of little telegraph of
+signals to the right and in front, to acquaint Lord Wellington
+immediately should anything be going forward.</p>
+
+<p>P.S.—I don’t think you heard a little anecdote of
+General Stewart, who is brave, and consequently always
+gets his aide-de-camp, &amp;c., into some bad blows, if he
+does not get one himself. The people about him on the
+13th were all touched, and he was nearly alone. An
+officer of the name of Egerton went up to him, and
+whilst there a shell burst between them. “A shell! sir:
+very animating!” said Stewart, and then kept Egerton
+there talking on.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_342">[Pg 342]</span></p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, St. Jean de Luz, January 4th, 1814.</em>—Here
+we are still without any news from your side of the
+water, and of course most anxious. On this side we
+seem, however, to be preparing something for you to
+talk about; at least, appearances look like another battle.
+The day before yesterday (Sunday) all was quiet, and on
+Monday (yesterday) Lord Wellington ordered out his
+hounds, and went off early himself. In the middle of
+the day, however, the signal was made that the French
+were in motion; Lord March and Gordon went off to
+Lord Wellington, and he did not return last night. To-day
+the troops have all been on the alert, for the French
+are said to be still moving on our right, and in fact
+rather on our rear. The Guards were off early from
+hence to replace the light division, who went to the
+right, and all seems moving in that direction. No firing
+has, however, been heard; and I understand nothing has
+been done to-day. I went as far as Guethary, and up to
+the church-tower, whence the view is very extensive, but
+saw nothing in particular. The last report was, that the
+French still advanced on our right. If they persist in
+this, it is my opinion that we must have a fight, and a
+sharp one probably, on that side to-morrow, but as the
+staff are all out, I know nothing certain.</p>
+
+<p>Two or three days since we took a little island in the
+Adour, almost without loss, which will enable us to
+molest the navigation more effectually than we have
+hitherto done, though already it is rather impeded, even
+at night, and almost totally by day. A contest about
+the island was rather expected, but not this bold move of
+the French in our rear. If they persist and fail, I think
+with the two Gaves in their rear, we may, perhaps, make
+them suffer severely for their enterprise. Marshal Soult’s
+supposed absence looks now rather like a <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">ruse de guerre</i>.</p>
+
+<p>We have Spaniards on our right, and in the valley of
+Bastan, who perhaps may now come in again for a little<span class="pagenum" id="Page_343">[Pg 343]</span>
+fighting; and it is to be hoped they may, for if the
+French work constantly on the British and Portuguese,
+and you continue to send men to Holland, we shall by
+degrees get too weak for our situation.</p>
+
+<p>Lord Wellington at dinner on Sunday directed some
+jokes at Major D——, who makes out the returns,
+because he wanted to make a grand total of wounded, &amp;c.,
+after the late five days’ fighting. He laughed, and said
+that all might go wrong from this innovation, but he was
+determined he would have no more grand totals until he
+got another Vittoria without more loss; that the loss
+was always great enough in all conscience, without displaying
+it in this ostentatious manner, and that he
+would not have every drummer and every officer, &amp;c.,
+killed or wounded in the five days, all added up in one
+grand total, but that at least the croakers should have
+the trouble themselves of adding up all the different losses,
+and making it out for themselves.</p>
+
+<p>The weather is just now delightful, and we have had
+as yet nothing which can properly be called winter.
+During the last ten days the sea has been quite smooth,
+and we have not even had a white frost. The people
+say they think that the first bad season is over now, and
+we shall not have much more bad weather until near
+March: I only hope this will prove correct.</p>
+
+<p>A French carriage and a car were waiting at the
+French outposts to receive my ladies, and they all got in
+safe. This was managed by sending in a message the
+day before. A certain communication with Bayonne is
+also now open; for yesterday we had an arrival of
+French watches, rings, trinkets, and silk dresses. We
+carry on war in a very civilized manner, especially if a
+little anecdote related to me yesterday be correct. One
+of our officers, it seems, I believe Major Q——, was
+riding a troublesome horse close to the French pickets,
+and partly from the violence of his horse, and partly<span class="pagenum" id="Page_344">[Pg 344]</span>
+from his own inadvertence, he got close to a French
+sentinel. The latter called out several times that he was
+French, and ordered him off, and at last presented his
+bayonet. The horse still plunging on, and the officer
+apparently not understanding the man, the French
+sentry turned the horse the other way by the bridle, and
+sent him back without offering any harm to either beast
+or rider, though he might have killed or taken both.</p>
+
+<p>This morning we had another instance on our side.
+A French officer’s wife came in from Bayonne to follow
+her husband, a prisoner in England. We had a boat in
+from Sacoa to take her upon the beach, to carry her round
+by sea to Passages, and an order from Lord Wellington
+waiting for her there, for a passage to England as expeditiously
+as circumstances would permit.</p>
+
+<p><em>Wednesday, 5th January.</em>—No one came back last
+night, and St. Jean de Luz is almost deserted; scarcely a
+red coat to be seen. The ladies are in some alarm, and
+only some inquiring doctors and commissaries are to be
+seen about the streets. I have in the mean time such an
+accumulation of business for Lord Wellington that I
+shall be almost fearful of seeing him—five Courts-martial,
+one of about ninety pages, another eighty. He always
+complains, and yet I think he likes to read these cases,
+and know himself exactly all that is going on. I have
+just been out to pick up news, but in vain, and have
+been driven back by a slight shower. Money has been
+so short here that I could only tempt them to give me
+some doubloons immediately by accepting a part of my
+pay on England in another Treasury Bill.</p>
+
+<p><em>Friday, January 7th.</em>—Lord Wellington is not yet
+returned here, and we are, therefore, still deserted; but
+nothing has been done. The French have been manœuvring
+for these three days on our right flank, but in vain,
+as our General was ready for them. Yesterday, however,
+he was nearly bringing them to blows. A part of their<span class="pagenum" id="Page_345">[Pg 345]</span>
+force remained on our side of the Adour, between the
+Nive and the Bidocque. This was too near our position,
+and they were to have been driven across, but prudently
+went away in good time of their own accord, consequently
+nothing was done, and I think nothing will be done just
+now.</p>
+
+<p>The French head-quarters here are at (I believe)
+Peyrehorade, a town on the Gave, of some little river
+commerce. In our present suspense we were at last
+amused yesterday by the arrival of two mails, and I have
+got letters, papers, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>You kill men for me faster than I do in reality, and
+that is enough. I am only aware of forty-one having
+been shot or hung since my arrival in the country; and
+that is quite enough too, you will say, almost as many as
+you hang in all England in a year. You were quite
+right about the lost letter from me; it contained a full
+description of St. Jean de Luz, and of my horrible muddy
+journey from St. Fé to this civilized place, with a sketch
+of my house and its vicinity, &amp;c., a ground plot of my
+quarter, which, if time and room permit, I will repeat.
+And as you do not congratulate me on my escape from
+being shot, I suppose that story was there also.</p>
+
+<p><em>Later.</em>—As Lord Wellington is still away, I continue
+to scribble to you. This place has been a very flourishing
+town, and of considerable trade, but is much in decay;
+this partly before the late wars, from the bar having
+increased, so that only small vessels can get in now, and
+the evil still increases. At low water the river only
+ripples over the bar of sand, scarcely a foot deep, and at
+times the river is choked up by the sand, so that it
+cannot make its way out, and floods the town. This
+happened twice last year, but has not recurred this year,
+though at times the bed of the river has been quite
+changed, and the water nearly stopped.</p>
+
+<p>Sacoa is a very safe harbour; for small vessels drawing<span class="pagenum" id="Page_346">[Pg 346]</span>
+under ten feet, quite safe. They lie there high and dry,
+according to the tide. The houses of the former merchants
+are rather magnificent, though some are in ruins,
+and their number, for the size of the town, considerable.
+It has been called a sort of little Paris for the Basques.
+Near the sea the water has been, and is, gaining on the
+town and bay. There are many ruins; one is part of an
+old convent, now beyond the sea-wall, and almost in the
+sea, and some say a whole street has been washed away.
+The great sea-wall made by Bonaparte, six hundred
+yards long, was constructed to save the town, and makes
+a good dry walk.</p>
+
+<p>Sibour is also a very large village, or small town, of
+inferior houses, where at present two brigades of Guards
+are, and two other regiments of Lord Aylmer’s brigade,
+besides some staff cavalry, &amp;c. Most of the better
+houses have French papers from Paris, and it looks very
+well. The whole wall forms one landscape, like tapestry—sea-ports
+from Vernet or Claude, &amp;c.; some in colours,
+some in bistre or an imitation of Indian ink, some Chinese,
+but in better perspective. The brown and black
+are very pretty. Most of the walls are papered. The
+lower parts of the houses are all a sort of warehouse
+(where they are not shops); this serves us for stabling,
+but they are flagged, which having no straw is noisy, and
+they smell much also. Almost all the men of a better
+sort went away from St. Jean de Luz; several women,
+for the most part old, stayed, and many have since
+returned; but no society, or anything of that sort, is as
+yet set on foot here. The deputy mayor, who stayed, sold
+all the wine he could appropriate, his own, and all unclaimed,
+as well as other things, and is, I believe, making
+money of us very fast. The town is now all a market
+or fair, and full of Spaniards and Portuguese, as well as
+French and Bascos, all pillaging poor John Bull, by selling
+turkeys for 25<em>s.</em> and 30<em>s.</em>, and fowls for 12<em>s.</em> and 14<em>s.</em></p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_347">[Pg 347]</span></p>
+
+<p>The people from Bilboa have been most active. Little
+has arrived from England or Lisbon as yet, which is
+extraordinary; but the danger of the coast is, probably,
+the cause. During the bad weather ten vessels of ours
+found their way into Bayonne, one with fifty-two Irish
+bullocks, by which we lost part of the best beef we ever
+get, and one with seven hundred trusses of hay, others
+with biscuit, &amp;c. This is very provoking. The Bayonne
+mayor showed us the post-list of the whole taken in each
+ship. How we shall get on with our animals I know
+not, for they tell me that they hear from England, in the
+Commissariat, there is but little hay on the sea for us,
+from want of transport, and there is no straw to be got
+at all now within thirteen leagues, or about forty miles,
+from hence. I am, however, advised to send for it; and
+if this movement shall come to nothing, will do so to-morrow.</p>
+
+<p>It is fortunate that we are so near the sea, and have
+some advantage as to transport in the river Nivelle also,
+for our transport is much diminished by desertion of the
+muleteers from want of pay. The army is more numerous
+than when at Frenada and in Portugal, and our
+transport is now less. Were we to wander into France
+(as you suppose), away from the coast, we should find it
+difficult to live at all. The boats of this place are famous,
+and the men stayed here, or have escaped here, and are
+all in our pay now, and thus things are brought round
+from Passages here by sea, and then up to the division
+by the river as far as Ustaritz, where they are then distributed
+to the mules of each division. Even with this
+help the army cannot be supplied with rum, except by
+buying it very dear on the spot of the suttlers, for nearly
+all our remaining mules are required for bread and a
+little corn for the staff. The meat supplies itself in a
+way—that is, about two-thirds only of the flesh which
+leaves Valencia, &amp;c., in Spain, arriving here, falls under<span class="pagenum" id="Page_348">[Pg 348]</span>
+the butcher’s knife, besides the number which die on the
+road; and yet all that can be stopped, when fagged or
+lame, are distributed at the stations on the way. The
+suttlers, by the great profit they make, can pay the
+muleteers as high as two dollars a-day for each mule to
+carry up their produce, making us pay for it in the end.
+This evil increases, for our muleteers, who only have one
+dollar a-day for each mule (and enough in all conscience),
+are tempted to desert and get into the service of the
+suttlers, who thus supply the men with rum only at a
+dear rate, when we cannot do it. The pay of our muleteers
+is now over-due twenty-one months for each mule:
+they have, therefore, their own way, and are under no
+control at all. Nothing but a sort of <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">esprit de corps</i>, and
+the fear of losing all claim to the debt, makes them keep
+with us at all; and we must submit to their fraud and
+carelessness, for we have no remedy.</p>
+
+<p>As an instance of this, it may be mentioned that one
+brigade of mules, which had twenty-four thousand pounds
+of barley given to them to bring here, five leagues from
+Passages, only delivered eighteen thousand, and almost
+openly admitted that they had taken the rest, which I
+suppose they had sold to raise money. We could only
+set off the value against their debt, for fear of losing
+them without getting others. There was a grand consultation
+the other day, at which Lord Wellington, the
+Commissary-general and his people, General Alava the
+Spanish General, and most of the principal Spanish
+Capistras, or directors of the mules and owners, were
+present, to settle what could be done. They resolved to
+make the arrears all a debt, to acknowledge it, and then
+begin a sort of new score. This is in imitation of the
+Portuguese; only they do not pay the debt at all, but
+wipe off the arrears. One month’s pay was also given
+by bills on the Treasury at a great discount, still this<span class="pagenum" id="Page_349">[Pg 349]</span>
+was something to go on with, and we have not Marshal
+Beresford’s absolute power to control these Spaniards,
+as he does the Portuguese. Somehow, however, you see
+we get on.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, St. Jean de Luz, Sunday, January
+9th, post-day again.</em>—As to length, at least, you shall
+have no reason to complain this mail, though I am at
+work again at business; for on Friday night all our
+warriors returned home to their respective quarters, and
+the Commander-in-Chief to his papers. The latter had
+so increased upon him in his five days’ absence, that he
+was quite overwhelmed; and when I went in with a
+great bundle to add to them, he put his hands before his
+eyes and said, “Put them on that table; and do not say
+anything about them now, or let me look at them at all.”</p>
+
+<p>This week’s manœuvring has not this time ended in
+smoke, but without smoke, as nearly as possible, for our
+men could not get within a long shot of the French,
+without following them beyond what our present plans
+would admit. They remained a short time on our side
+of the river Arrun, as it is called, in Casini’s great map,
+and Gambouri, in my part of the French National Atlas,
+a small river which runs by La Bastide and falls into the
+Adour, near Urt, a place half-way between Bayonne and
+where the Gaves fall into the Adour.</p>
+
+<p>We collected on the heights above Bastide, and made
+the signal by a little mountain gun to advance. The
+French made use of the same signal to commence their
+retreat across the river, and scarcely a shot was fired.
+La Bastide, which is on this side of the river, we never
+entered: but remaining satisfied with that line, the
+matter ended there. A change of weather, to rain of no
+trifling kind, will probably, I think, oblige both parties
+to be quiet for some little time again, until sun and air
+return to us without wet, and dry roads enable the troops
+to move a little this difficult country. It is at present<span class="pagenum" id="Page_350">[Pg 350]</span>
+very hard work to get on, even in the best roads, and
+across the country, which is much intersected with
+streams and rivers, and has only clayey poached roads,
+and strong fences of hedge and ditch; it is almost impassable.
+Lord Wellington, I believe, always went back
+to his brother Marshal, Beresford, at Ustaritz, to which
+place he sent for some English hay for his horses. The
+Adjutant-general’s department remained mostly at Hasparren,
+which is, it is said, a very pretty small town in a
+rich cultivated valley of meadows, where they fell in with
+a small stock of excellent hay, not quite eaten by our
+cavalry, who are in that part of the country.</p>
+
+<p>All the people at head-quarters have come back safe
+and sound; but with horses a little knocked up, and
+rather stiff with riding about twelve or even fourteen
+hours a-day. Most of them, however, look the
+better for the exercise. The most fagged of all I saw
+was our naval hero, Sir G. Collier, with his lame leg.
+He had ridden everywhere after Lord Wellington in
+hopes of seeing a fight, and coming in, I suppose, for
+another knock on shore, but all in vain. He says, that
+the French never will stand when he comes, and nothing
+is ever done. He is about to leave this station.</p>
+
+<p>And now for a little account of the Spaniards, in order
+to show you how they plague Lord Wellington. We
+have undertaken to assist and direct, with our engineers,
+in putting St. Sebastian into some order, and into a state
+of defence. The actual working-party are, however,
+nearly all Spanish. These have nearly all deserted, and
+little or nothing is going on but quarrels between our
+people and the Spaniards in authority, who thwart them.
+At first Lord Wellington thought that we were to blame,
+and seemed angry; but he told Col. E—— at last, “If
+they go on so, d—— them, they may finish the work
+for themselves; but go over and see about it, and make a
+report to me.”</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_351">[Pg 351]</span></p>
+
+<p><em>Later.</em>—Another English mail arrived, and another
+letter from you of the 27th and 28th, with papers to the
+27th, &amp;c. The great news which yours contained as to
+Lord Castlereagh we had heard through the French outpost
+five days since; but the report only stated that he
+had actually landed at Morlaix, on his way to Manheim,
+to the general Congress, for a peace. This was believed
+before your account came, as it agreed with the general
+tenor of the late English news; at least I thought so, for
+one. Whether it will end in a peace, however, is very
+doubtful, especially if Bonaparte finds that in consequence
+of this negotiation he keeps all quiet in France, and the
+conscription goes on without resistance, and his armies
+in March next will be formidable. If he can once assume
+an imposing position, it is doubtful in my opinion
+whether he will come into the terms of the Allies. <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Mais
+c’est à voir</i>, and he has much to do to put himself in such
+a position.</p>
+
+<p>Many of the French conscripts here join almost without
+any uniforms or necessaries for a soldier, yet every
+deserter who comes in has everything nearly new, and is
+better provided for than any of our men, except the few
+who have just had their new clothing, &amp;c., of which the
+Guards, who, by the by, returned here last night to their
+old quarters, form part. Just now the Italians begin to
+desert the French, and say it is in consequence of their
+having heard that their division, which was marched to
+the rear some short time since, was all disarmed and
+treated as prisoners of war. This may not be fact; but
+the effect is that many Italians come over to us.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_352">[Pg 352]</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XIX">CHAPTER XIX.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="fs80" style="margin-left: 2em; text-indent: -2em;">Rumours of War—The Rival Dinner-Tables—“Slender Billy”—Bonaparte’s
+Trickery—Spanish Violence—Wellington with the Hounds—French and
+English Aspects; the Outsides of the Nations.</p>
+
+<p class="right fs80">
+Head-quarters, St. Jean de Luz,<br>
+<span style="padding-right: 2em">January 11, 1814.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="no-indent"><span class="smcap">My dear M——</span>,
+</p>
+
+<p><span style="padding-left: 2em">Fine</span> weather is now returned, and no doubt
+before we have been quiet another week, should it last,
+we shall be stirred up a little by the French. At
+present, all our usual avocations are proceeding, and all
+is quiet.</p>
+
+<p>The only event in my own establishment which has
+occurred is my taking into my service a Spanish lad, in
+addition to my other servants, but it will end in my
+getting rid of an idle Portuguese, who does nothing. I
+found the lad begging and in misery, by the sea-side, and
+asked his history. He told me he was without father
+and mother, and came from a village two leagues beyond
+Madrid; that he had been under-stable servant to a
+French Commandant, who had gone wounded from
+Bayonne to the rear, towards Paris, and had turned
+him off. He therefore came back here, towards Spain.
+At first I only gave him food, and then, that I might
+not have to try him, took him to General Alava, who
+promised to send him to General Frere, to make a drummer
+of him. The next morning he called upon me before
+he started, and, being prepossessed by his looks, I have<span class="pagenum" id="Page_353">[Pg 353]</span>
+taken him on trial. He seems active and useful; and I
+hope will not return my charity by robbing me, of which
+there is some risk.</p>
+
+<p>A party of our suttling merchants here behaved ill the
+other night, by insulting a sick officer; the worst among
+them escaped. One is now in confinement, and I have
+sent in his charge. They are all in a terrible fright of
+military law. Most probably he will not be tried if he
+makes an apology; but it has answered Lord Wellington’s
+intention by convincing these men that there is
+law here, and that they are followers of the army and
+liable to that law.</p>
+
+<p>On the neutral ground, on the great road to Bayonne,
+between our picquets and the French, in front of Biaritz,
+there are at present, in one of the houses unoccupied by
+either party, three young damsels alone. They are
+rather pretty and interesting, and all say very modest.
+For a time General Stopford, I believe, out of gallantry,
+put a safeguard there, but it was considered out of our
+position, and there was some quizzing. So the damsels
+are left quiet and alone again. They come daily into our
+lines, to bring milk, &amp;c., and some flirtation goes on; but
+there they are safe. This is creditable to both sides.</p>
+
+<p>I am told that the people at Hasparren, when the
+French approached the place last week, and it was thought
+might occupy it, were manifestly alarmed and dissatisfied,
+and wished us to stay. This might be from the fear of a
+conflict there, or from the benefits now derived from us,
+when the first irruption and mischief are over. Fowls
+are still, near there, to be had for 2<em>s.</em> each, and turkeys
+from 7<em>s.</em> to 9<em>s.</em>; but this will not last, as people here have
+given, and others now ask, as much as 12<em>s.</em> for fowls, and
+30<em>s.</em> for turkeys, or even more. General Cole, as we advanced,
+bought nine geese, at a dollar each; and this was
+grand pay, and not from fear. Here they are 25<em>s.</em> each.</p>
+
+<p><em>Later.</em>—How uncertain everything is with us! Marshal<span class="pagenum" id="Page_354">[Pg 354]</span>
+Beresford’s aide-de-camp is just come in to Lord
+Wellington, and there is some stir on our right again.
+Lord Wellington and several others are off in that direction,
+and I am told the former stays out all night; this
+looks as if something was suspected. I dine to-day at
+head-quarters, and am to go as usual, though the chief is
+away. He asked me yesterday, but I told him that
+General Hill had asked me three days before, and expected
+me. “Very well,” said he, “but I advise you to
+come to me, nevertheless, as you will get a much better
+dinner, for General Hill gives the worst dinners going.”
+To General Hill’s, however, I went; and though plain
+fare, compared to Lord Wellington’s, whose table is just
+now very good, and much improved, I got a very good
+dinner.</p>
+
+<p>If any dependence could be placed on appearances, I
+should say nothing important was going on to-day; for I
+saw Lord Wellington after he had seen the aide-de-camp,
+and he read a long letter quietly through, seeming quite
+at his ease; but he takes all that arises so coolly that this
+proves nothing. A sudden change again to rain will, in
+my opinion, damp the plans of the French, if they had
+any, as well as give all those gone off to the right a
+miserable ride, as it seems well set in for the day. Wind
+and wet seem here to be winter.</p>
+
+<p>What a change has arisen for our young Prince of
+Orange who was here! I only hope he will not be spoilt
+by success and prosperity. In a little time, after all, it
+would not surprise me to hear of his looking back to the
+time he spent here at head-quarters as the pleasantest
+part of his life. Slender Billy was his nickname with
+those who were intimate with him, and he knew it; for
+one day, at dinner, Lord Fitzroy Somerset, not knowing
+that he was present, said, “Where is Slender Billy to-day?”
+Upon which the Prince put his head forward,
+and called out, “Here I am, Fitzroy; what do you want?”</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_355">[Pg 355]</span></p>
+
+<p><em>January 12th.</em>—Lord Wellington and his party came
+back to dinner yesterday. The cause of the bustle was as
+follows. We had in our possession a mill which belonged
+rather to the French position than to ours; they attacked
+it, and, after some brisk firing, it was abandoned to them,
+and then all was quiet again. This news passed Lord
+Wellington on the road, but missed him, or he would not
+have gone on as far as he did. Ustaritz is about fifteen
+good miles from hence, and the road in parts almost up
+to a horse’s belly. Lord Wellington rode there in the
+rain in two hours and ten minutes, and back in two hours
+and a half, up and down hills and through the clay: this
+proves a horse.</p>
+
+<p>The next piece of news you will, probably, hear first:
+but if you should not, you have to learn that the cunning
+Bonaparte has been making a treaty with King Fernando
+VII. privately about a peace with Spain, and that he has
+sent it to the Cortes for their approval, and has appointed
+an ambassador for that purpose to Madrid. The gubernador,
+or preceptor and major domo of King Ferdinand,
+is either at Madrid or on his way thither. Spain, and
+Madrid in particular, is said to be in much agitation.
+The Cortes are to meet the 15th of January. This is a
+very artful plan to create jealousies between us, if not to
+procure a partial peace. We shall see now of what the
+Regency and Cortes are made. They have in professions
+bullied much, and resolved never to treat at all whilst a
+Frenchman remained in Spain. How they will act up to
+their resolution is now to be seen.</p>
+
+<p><em>Friday, January 14th.</em>—We have now French papers
+up to the 3rd from Paris, and have got Bonaparte’s valedictory
+address, on setting out for the army in France, to
+fight on old French territory. This, I think, if the Allies
+persist, must end the business soon, for if he is well
+beaten, there must certainly be a rising in France; and
+if he beats the Allies, we shall in my opinion have a peace,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_356">[Pg 356]</span>
+except that he seems determined, even now, not to give
+up Holland, and that we must at all events retain, if possible.
+The crisis is, however, apparently approaching,
+and that rapidly.</p>
+
+<p>We remain here in <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">statu quo</i>. French desertion is diminishing,
+and seems for the moment quiet. The only
+event of interest has been the folly of two Portuguese
+officers near the Adour. They had had a long parley
+with the French, were, it is said, drinking together, but
+were somehow persuaded by their French new acquaintance
+to pass over the river for a dance, or wine, or some
+reason of that sort, under a promise of being allowed to
+return safe. They went, however, and have never got
+back. Lord Wellington has written to Gazan, reminding
+him of his having sent back six French soldiers, who
+were taken by the Portuguese in the heat of the campaign,
+owing to a similar promise or understanding, not
+having been known to them as made to the French.
+Lord Wellington claims the two Portuguese in the same
+way, as being taken by a breach of faith in the French
+officers. If this be not acceded to, he then requests that
+the two officers may be put for some time into close confinement
+or arrest, which, he says, they deserve, and
+might probably meet here if restored. As yet no answer
+is arrived.</p>
+
+<p>A French dragoon of the 21st chasseurs, a deserter,
+came in yesterday, giving a curious account of his reason
+for deserting. He says he had been fourteen years in
+the French service, and was now a corporal; that his
+own captain’s nephew had lately joined as a private in
+his troop, and that he, the corporal, had to place this
+man on duty; that he was not tractable or obedient, and
+that he was obliged to strike him with the flat of his
+sword; that the nephew told the uncle, and, when they
+returned, the captain, as soon as he met the deserter,
+gave him a severe blow in the face with his fist; and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_357">[Pg 357]</span>
+that, in consequence, he immediately got on his horse,
+and came off to us. He is a fine-looking soldier: and,
+though he has sold his horse for a hundred dollars, says,
+that he now repents much what he was induced to do in
+the heat of the moment; but it is now too late—the
+deed is done, and he must persevere.</p>
+
+<p>I forgot to tell you, in my last, of an act of Spanish
+violence at Vittoria, which has caused a strong sensation
+in the English army, especially at Vittoria. The Honourable
+Captain G——, of the 94th, was quartered
+there, and had had some intrigue with a girl. He at
+first took her home to his quarter. Her friends had
+recourse to the police. The armed police came, and were
+in the house to take the girl: Captain G—— resisted,
+and the police were fairly turned out again by him and
+his servant. When out of the house, they are said to
+have formed, as it were, and then to have fired in through
+the door in cool blood, and with no particular object as
+to taking Captain G——. The latter was shot, and
+died almost immediately. Had this happened during
+the conflict, it might have been correct enough, though
+rather harsh and unnecessary in an armed police against
+an individual for comparatively a trifling offence; but as
+the story is told, it is quite inexcusable, and seems to
+have been merely an act of spite and vexation, at having
+suffered themselves to be repulsed by the captain. It
+was revenge for having exposed their cowardice.</p>
+
+<p>The fox-hounds were out yesterday, and killed a fox;
+but had not a very good run. Lord Wellington wore
+the Salisbury hunt-coat, sky-blue and black cape. The
+Spanish General Frere accompanied him, and as formerly
+he was a general of cavalry, and the fox soon took to
+earth, I understand Frere kept up, but all his staff
+were distanced.</p>
+
+<p>I feel now quite at ease about my animals, for I have
+collected straw and hay, and furze enough for about<span class="pagenum" id="Page_358">[Pg 358]</span>
+eight days, which is with us looking very forward, as
+much so as is prudent. My Spanish boy, after being
+here a day or two, told me he would rather set out and
+try to find his way to Madrid, so I dismissed him, lest
+he should take a horse or mule to expedite him on his
+journey.</p>
+
+<p>We cannot prevent the Spanish boats from still getting
+down the Adour to Bayonne, though it is not quite so
+easy as it was to navigate the river. If all remains
+quiet, Lord Wellington talks of giving a ball here on
+the 18th of January, the Queen’s birthday, but nothing
+can be settled long beforehand. The English ladies will
+be few, and all married women. We have still only four
+of the legitimate kind. The mayor of the town says
+that a number of the ladies who frequented the balls
+before we came, and of whom I found a list in my quarter,
+are still here, and will be forthcoming if called upon.</p>
+
+<p>I find my French “seat of war” a most useful acquisition,
+as it now contains the whole war, except our own,
+and that I have in the map of this department, which is
+on a superior scale.</p>
+
+<p>From four to six o’clock our promenade on the wall is
+quite gay, for all the great men of business, including
+Lord Wellington himself, generally appear there at that
+time, and the Guards also, though the exertion of
+walking, to which we men of business are accustomed to
+take at a true twopenny postman’s long trot, is too great
+for them; yet they are formed about in knots and
+groups, sitting on the wall, or gently lounging on it, and
+add to the gaiety of the scene. We soon perceive when
+their turn of duty at the outposts takes them away to the
+front for a week.</p>
+
+<p>As a proof of the supine and inactive state of the
+Spanish government, bread and corn are so cheap and
+abundant this year in the Castiles, that they are quite
+without demand, and it even answers to bring Spanish<span class="pagenum" id="Page_359">[Pg 359]</span>
+bread up here to sell, above fifty, and, I believe, a
+hundred miles; and yet the Spanish nation, relieved from
+the French army and our own, cannot supply the few
+men we have in front with us, in France and on the
+frontier, with money or anything. To prevent their
+plundering, we now not only have clothed Don Carlos’s
+soldiers, near Hasparren, but have given them a month’s
+pay, and provided them with rations of biscuits from
+England. With such a nation, and such a population,
+the state of the Spanish army, and the supplies, which
+get, I think, worse instead of better, is most provokingly
+disgraceful to their government and leading men.</p>
+
+<p>I have been much struck with the change in the
+appearance of this town, when French head-quarters
+were here, and now that it has become the head-quarters
+of the English. It shows the difference between
+the two nations. When I was last there, all was gay
+and glittering, full of chattering officers in their best
+uniforms, with gold lace and ornaments, and prancing
+country steeds with housings and trappings of all kinds.
+The shops were crowded with sky-blue and scarlet caps
+embroidered with silver and gold, and pantaloons the
+same, smart cloaks, trinkets, &amp;c. The road was covered
+with long cars, bringing in supplies drawn by mules
+gaily ornamented, and with bells, and waggoners with
+blue frocks, and long smacking whips, whilst the quay
+was nearly deserted, only a few boats to be seen which
+had just returned from an unsuccessful attempt to send
+in shot and shells to St. Sebastian; the sailors idle, and
+scarcely the appearance of a port visible. Bread and
+vegetables were abundant; other eatables, not so.</p>
+
+<p>Now we have, on the contrary, a different scene; not
+a piece of finery is to be seen, no gay caps, no pantaloons,
+no ornaments. The officers all in their morning great
+coats; Lord Wellington in his plain blue coat, and round
+hat, or perhaps in his sky-blue Salisbury hunting dress.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_360">[Pg 360]</span>
+The streets, full of Spanish mules, with supplies, and
+muleteers, &amp;c., all running against you, and splashing
+you as you walk; every shop crowded with eatables—wines,
+sauces, pickles, hams, tongues, butter, and sardines.
+The quay is now always a busy scene, covered with some
+rum casks, and flour casks, and suttler stores; the sailors
+all in our pay, at work constantly and making fortunes;
+the pilots in full hourly employment, bringing in vessels
+here or at Sacoa. The latter is full of masts and sails
+from Passages, Bilboa, Lisbon, or the West of England.
+The prices are still enormous, and of course, the activity
+is the result. The French peasants are always on the
+road between this place and Bayonne, bringing in poultry,
+and smuggling out sugar in sacks on their heads.</p>
+
+<p>The Basques must have been a very happy race
+twenty years since, for though generally a poor country,
+there is plenty of their usual food—Indian corn, and
+excellent meadows by the rivers, which are numerous.
+Fish is easily procured—the houses are spacious and comfortable,
+and the children seem numerous, well-grown,
+intelligent, and healthy. The men are tall, straight, and
+active; the women, stout and useful, and rather good-looking.
+Nor was any great deficiency of young men
+observable; the proportions seemed much the same as in
+England, though certainly there are not so many tall idle
+fellows about as in Ireland. The town, however, had
+evident marks of a tendency to retrograde and decay.</p>
+
+<p><em>Later, the 16th.</em>—By the last French papers (which
+we now have to the 8th, and which bring us the good
+news from Genoa), I find the accounts of Bonaparte
+setting out to put himself at the head of a hundred and
+eighty thousand men near Dijon or Maçon, is at least
+premature, for he is still reviewing at Paris. We have
+stories of disturbances arising out of the conscription, but
+nothing certain seems known about them. The French,
+a few days since, surprised a few of our forage mules near<span class="pagenum" id="Page_361">[Pg 361]</span>
+Lahoupon; I believe only eight. Lahoupon is a place
+which neither party is fixed in, but both patrole through
+occasionally.</p>
+
+<p>P.S.—Notwithstanding Cobbett says, we men from
+the Peninsula must never think of marrying English
+women, we may at least be anxious about our friends;
+for we are not, I conclude, worn out for friendship, as
+well as for love. Tell me all you can, as usual, about
+every one in your world.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_362">[Pg 362]</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XX">CHAPTER XX.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="fs80" style="margin-left: 2em; text-indent: -2em;">State of Feeling in France—Rocket-Practice—The Prince Regent’s Hobby—The
+Mayor’s Ball—The Flag-of-Truce.</p>
+
+<p class="right fs80">
+Head Quarters, St. Jean de Luz,<br>
+<span style="padding-right: 2em">January 18th, 1814.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="no-indent"><span class="smcap">My dear M——</span>,
+</p>
+
+<p><span style="padding-left: 2em">After</span> two or three days’ continual rain, we have
+at last a clear beautiful day; thermometer in my room
+at 63°.</p>
+
+<p>In the midst of a terrible storm the day before
+yesterday a little cockle shell of a sloop arrived in the
+open bay here, with the Count de Grammont on board
+and Colonel Abercrombie, with despatches and a paper of
+the 10th. This told us the principal news. We have
+thus heard that the Danes are with us; ideas of peace
+thrown aside, and the Allies across the Rhine. This is
+popular news here; for almost all are against a peace with
+Bonaparte, partly from public feelings that such a peace
+would be injurious to England and the world, partly the
+fact that any peace would not be desirable to our military
+men, especially to those on the staff, whose splendour
+would be much shorn by it. The civilians and regimental
+officers, who are not on the eve of a step, are alone
+inclined to a peace; to many it will be ruinous.</p>
+
+<p>We again hear of refractory conscripts, and men
+refusing to march, in the right of the department de
+Landes and elsewhere, and I believe it in some degree.
+But this alone will not do without a more general feeling<span class="pagenum" id="Page_363">[Pg 363]</span>
+and even then scarcely, unless a portion of the army
+takes a part and declares its views against the common
+enemy Bonaparte, whom all Europe are now hunting like
+a mad dog.</p>
+
+<p>The Count de Grammont has made a most expeditious
+trip. He had had communications with the persons on
+his former property here, and I suppose his visit home
+was connected with this, to know what line to pursue,
+&amp;c. The feelings of this part of France seem, as yet, to
+be still the same: all desire peace, and for that purpose
+are eager to get rid of Bonaparte; but there is no feeling
+manifested towards the Bourbons, not hitherto, at least;
+and I really believe the military men, and even many
+civilians, would rather have Bonaparte if they could be
+sure of a peace with him. He has done much for them,
+and on a great scale. The Code Napoleon has been a
+great work, and from what I hear is much liked. Instead
+of being governed, and oppressed in fact, by the rich, as
+they were before, they are now governed by the law, and
+that a good law; and as the mayor here and several
+others say, well administered, when the state was not
+concerned. The only defect seemed to be that the
+magistrates having been latterly ill-paid, a temptation to
+corruption on their part existed; and this was a change
+from anarchy, and therefore the more felt, as then the
+strongest (I mean in means and territory) was everything
+and the poor man nothing. In short, the only really
+great grievance felt at this distance from the court of the
+tyrant seems to have been the horrid conscription and its
+tremendous increase of late, and the want of commerce.
+Nor would the French feel either of these so much as
+any other nation in Europe. The first she would not
+feel so much, on account of the natural tendency of the
+inhabitants to a military life and habits; the last, from
+the great internal resources of France in other respects,
+making loss of commerce of much less importance to her<span class="pagenum" id="Page_364">[Pg 364]</span>
+than to almost any other power which had been accustomed
+to enjoy them. I do not mean less than
+Austria, which has been so generally shut out from commerce
+to any extent, but compared with England, Holland,
+or Sweden.</p>
+
+<p><em>Thursday, 20th.</em>—Another change again in the weather.
+Yesterday it was quite a fine, sunny, warm day, till one
+or two o’clock, like our May, and we were all out,
+witnessing some experiments made with the rockets,
+about two miles off, when a storm gathered, and soon
+the rain and wind came, and has continued to this time.
+The night has been very boisterous, and one of our
+Commissariat transports has been on shore in the bay
+here, stranded, and it is feared that five or six lives are
+lost: all hands are now at work moving the stores—corn
+and hay.</p>
+
+<p>All the military men in the vicinity were here with
+Lord Wellington, including General Frere, the Spanish
+General. The ground-rockets, intended against cavalry,
+did not seem to answer very well. They certainly made
+a most tremendous noise, and were formidable spitfires;
+no cavalry could stand if they came near them, but in
+that seemed the difficulty, for none went within half a
+mile of the intended object, and the direction seemed
+extremely uncertain. The ground was very bad, and on
+a flat, or along a road, where they would ricochet or
+bound along straight they might do very well, but in the
+present experiment they went bang into the ground,
+sometimes within two hundred yards, and sometimes one
+way and sometimes another. Some of them, instead of
+going fourteen hundred yards, as intended, were off in a
+hundred, and some pieces of the shell came back even
+amongst us spectators, one very near Dr. N—— and me,
+whilst we were standing on one side, out of the way as
+we thought. The fire, however, seemed very strong, as
+one got into a green hedge, and set it in a blaze directly;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_365">[Pg 365]</span>
+the furze and heath were on fire, and only put out by the
+rain. Those which were let off at an elevation supposed
+for burning towns, &amp;c., were much more successful, and
+some went very near the spot, compared with others;
+that is, I think they would have hit Bayonne, for
+instance, somewhere or other, and no doubt have set
+fire to the town; but the part of the town you could not
+very well choose, for their power seemed very different,
+and the wind at times carried them three hundred or
+four hundred yards away from the direction intended.</p>
+
+<p>Upon the whole I do not think they were much admired,
+though in certain cases they might be useful,
+especially when the enemy are in a mountainous track,
+like at the battle of Pamplona, and near us. Where
+guns could not be got up without great difficulty, these
+rockets could be carried by hand, or on mules, and being
+let off near, would have tremendous effect even upon
+infantry when in column. General ——, who is very
+wise and knowing in the secret views and springs of
+everything (or at least would be thought so), says that
+all that fuse of the Crown Prince and Sir Charles Stewart,
+as to the effect of the rockets in the North, was to please
+the Prince Regent in England, the great patron of the
+rockets.</p>
+
+<p>The stranded ship was, I hear, driven out of the harbour
+of Sacoa by the gale. This is quite extraordinary,
+for the vessels are there quite shut up. The place is,
+however, too full by far, for no transport likes to move
+again when once safe there. The packet lost in the harbour
+of Passages last week shows you the sort of gales
+and seas we have here.</p>
+
+<p>This morning, a French picquet of about thirty men
+were marched off from hence, prisoners; they were surprised
+by us two nights ago. We got close, and when
+challenged, an old Highlander called out “deserter,” so
+the sentinel did not fire, and our men got in among them
+and carried off the picquet. I am not very glad of this,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_366">[Pg 366]</span>
+for I fear it will lead the French to try and return the
+compliment, and make the outpost duty much more dangerous
+and troublesome than it has been. If it only leads
+to their shooting our next deserter, so much the better.
+Deserters continue to come in and tell strange stories.
+They say that Marshal Soult has issued orders, that
+whenever a foreigner is to be on outpost duty, all his
+necessaries, knapsack, &amp;c., are to be taken from him, and
+he is besides to be watched and placed with others. They
+even say that a German posted on sentry has his shoes
+taken away from him. This, barring exaggeration, no
+doubt is nearly true.</p>
+
+<p>It is reported that last week three hundred young conscripts
+belonging to one regiment were employed to carry
+bread to the brigade, and that when near one of the
+French sentinels, they were challenged by him, but from
+not understanding matters, they made no answer, and
+advanced; upon which he fired at them, when the whole
+three hundred threw down their bread and ran into
+camp, crying, that the enemy were coming.</p>
+
+<p>But the best story of all, if true, was told by the
+mayor of Biaritz, who states that he understands three
+French divisions are under orders to proceed direct to
+Lyons, whether to meet Schwartzenburg or on account
+of disturbances does not seem clear, even if the story be
+true.</p>
+
+<p><em>Friday, January 21st.</em>—In spite of the wet yesterday,
+Lord Wellington having heard of the surprised picquet,
+set off to the front to inquire about it, or, as he said last
+night, to know if it was worth while to surprise it again,
+as it has been renewed by the French; but he thought
+not, and was back here to dinner, and in the evening at
+a ball at the mayoralty. This ball was an attempt to
+ascertain how far anything of the sort would answer.
+The mayor was to manage it, and ask all the ladies, and
+a list of the officers to be asked was given to him, and
+tickets sent out, and he was to provide the best entertainment<span class="pagenum" id="Page_367">[Pg 367]</span>
+he could for a dollar-a-head from the gentlemen
+only, which will be collected accordingly. It went off,
+however, but ill, and will not in my opinion be renewed.
+There were about a dozen or fifteen elderly women,
+French, who have remained here, and who seemed of the
+better order, but who came in our country town fashion,
+with the cloak, the woman servant, and the large lantern,
+only many of them brought the maid in with them
+to sit behind and look on. Then there were about sixteen
+or eighteen younger ladies, French, but who seemed
+to be nearly all the tradesmen’s families in the place,
+none of the better sort, but from behind the counter in
+the morning. They were, however, well dressed, and
+danced tolerably for French—for English very finely.
+About half a dozen old Frenchmen, some respectable;
+and about eight young beaux of the place, who had
+escaped the conscription, and who had remained here,
+made up the French party. There were six English
+ladies altogether, but who, excepting one, declined dancing
+French dances or waltzes, and there was nothing
+else but one country dance, which went off ill. I have
+no doubt the French either thought them excessively
+fine, or that they could not dance. There might be
+quite as much of the latter as the former. Then to complete
+the assembly, came about two hundred officers, all
+in their best, and forming a very smart squeeze. What
+would your fine ladies in London have not given for such
+a display of gentlemen? All the field officers of six
+battalions of the Guards, and about fifty other guards’
+officers, and all the head-quarters’ staff, generals, aides-de-camp,
+were there.</p>
+
+<p>I think Cobbett would have admitted that, with so
+many fine young men there, the whole Peninsula squad
+could not be quite so despicable in the eyes of the
+English fair. Three sets of cotillions were formed, and
+some waltzes, but the whole went off but indifferently.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_368">[Pg 368]</span>
+A Frenchman of about forty or fifty, one of the police of
+the town, volunteered a hornpipe, which was tolerably
+good. About 12 or 1 o’clock a long table was opened
+for the ladies, covered with pastry of different shapes: no
+meat—the wine, claret. At half-past one I came away,
+leaving the dancers rather beginning to romp. This will
+not do, because the belles are not good enough to please
+in a sober way, and if liberties are taken they would be
+offended, or at least their male relations would be for
+them. Lord Wellington was soon off, and whilst there
+seemed to be principally occupied with little military
+arrangements. He, however, seemed pleased with the
+thing, and asked me as I passed, if I thought Gazan ever
+had a better ball? I only said, “I am sure there never
+were so many gentlemen in the mayor’s house before.”
+Better dancing, however, there may have been.</p>
+
+<p>Still rain, without ceasing. I have been skipping with
+one of my mule ropes, instead of my walk to-day with my
+umbrella. I got to the wrecked ship yesterday. The
+best account seems to be that she pulled up the post to
+which she was fastened in Sacoa harbour, and drifted out;
+the captain was on shore; the missing are three men and
+a woman, and they are supposed to be lost, and it is believed
+that the men were in the rigging trying to make
+things right, when the mast broke. The Guards were
+set to work as fatigue-parties at low water, and the cargo
+removed on shore, consisting of hay and biscuit, not much
+damaged by the wreck. The hay, however, of which one
+truss fell to my share, was previously almost mouldy
+with wet, perhaps a little taste of salt may give it a
+relish, and any how it is as good as coarse straw and
+furze, and better than nothing, which is my mules’ long
+forage at present. The muleteer is so popular, the
+Portuguese give him so much drink to make him dance
+and amuse them, that he is very ill with it, and lying
+below with a blister and emetic; and the mules therefore<span class="pagenum" id="Page_369">[Pg 369]</span>
+get no grass, as I cannot turn them out; and straw
+I cannot afford them.</p>
+
+<p>Another ingenious trick has just been told me of the
+French here. They advanced towards Murillo’s Spaniards,—the
+latter fired at them; they sent in to say
+they were very much surprised, for they understood they
+were at peace with the Spaniards now, as a treaty was
+signed. Murillo sent back for answer, that he knew of
+no peace, and that, if the Cortes or Regency had signed
+such a peace, still he should continue to do as the English
+did, and fire at the French until orders came to him to
+the contrary, and that regularly through the Duke of
+Ciudad Rodrigo. This is all as it should be, but the
+trick is a curious one.</p>
+
+<p><em>Saturday, 22nd.</em>—The weather is now more like winter
+than it has yet been. At St. Jean de Luz we have a
+raw, cold air, no sun, a damp fog. La Rhüne and all
+the hills round are covered with snow; nothing but a
+little sleet has fallen here.</p>
+
+<p><em>Sunday, Post-day.</em>—A fine day, but really like winter;
+the coldest we have had, and a north-east wind, which
+will, I think, before it arrived here, have frozen you all
+up stiff in England and in Holland. We were all
+yesterday surprised by the news that the French picquets
+were all withdrawn near Bayonne on our front on this
+side, and that we might proceed close in to the works
+round Bayonne. What this exactly means we none of
+us know; Lord Wellington, however, was over immediately,
+to have a peep into the town on that side.
+Careless about himself, he got so close, that I understand
+there were some French in a house within about forty
+yards of him; nor did he move until he thought a French
+frigate lying in the harbour seemed to be making preparations
+to fire at the party. I mentioned to you it
+was on the 10th of December, in front here, that he got
+quite in the midst of the broken Portuguese, where there<span class="pagenum" id="Page_370">[Pg 370]</span>
+were cross fires on all sides, and was fearful on moving
+off quickly back, even though he wanted to go and order
+up fresh troops, lest the bad example might increase the
+disorder, and throw the men in greater confusion; so he
+went leisurely back, until out of sight, and then cantered
+off to the unbroken part of the column.</p>
+
+<p>We have more reports of insurrections in France, and
+the French have been circulating the story, that the
+preliminaries of peace (a general peace) are already signed,
+and have sent the report in here. I suspect that it is all
+a trick, for all shifts and schemes are now resorted to;
+amongst others, Bonaparte has sent back Palafox to
+Spain—it is concluded, to intrigue, for he is well known
+now, and the Cortes have, I am told, refused to receive
+him or take any notice of him. The promotion of
+O’Donoghue as Lieutenant-general, and his quitting the
+situation of War Minister in consequence, is considered
+a sort of triumph on our part, for he was suspected of
+being inimical to Lord Wellington and the British
+interests. Of his successor, Moreno, I know nothing,
+except that he has generally been of the War Council,
+and in civil-military employments, and has not seen much
+service.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, St. Jean de Luz, January 26th, 1814.</em>—I
+have now another letter to thank you for, of the date of
+the 11th instant, and papers to the same period, for
+which my best thanks are also due. These arrived by
+the sloop of war, with Colonel Bunbury, and are particularly
+acceptable, for (except Lord Wellington), no one has
+letters by the packet, or papers later than the 5th.
+Colonel Bunbury brought one of the 13th for Lord
+Wellington. In some degree, however, all your papers
+now lose their interest, for we have a sort of information
+through Paris very much quicker, and though not very
+much to be depended upon, and not very full or accurate,
+yet it gives us, making all due allowances, a tolerable<span class="pagenum" id="Page_371">[Pg 371]</span>
+insight into what is passing. We have thus now papers
+of the 17th from Paris, from which it appears the Allies
+have been at Besançon, Dijon, and even Langres, whilst
+your accounts only carry them to the frontiers of Switzerland.</p>
+
+<p>The deficiency of my Spanish maps does not signify,
+for I merely sent them home as a sort of memorial of
+Vittoria. All I had were only about the tenth part of
+Lopez, and nearly one-half of what I had are gone to the
+bottom in the little Catherine, in which I sent two
+parcels.</p>
+
+<p>General G—— was always famous here for hospitality
+and very large parties. The only objection to them was
+the too great crowd at dinner. From what I saw, however,
+I liked him extremely. There was a wide distance
+between him and Lord Wellington in material points for
+a Commander-in-Chief, though I believe he was more popular
+with those under him, and particularly with his staff.</p>
+
+<p>You need never apologize for forwarding a letter by
+any officer sent out express in a ship of war, and direct to
+head-quarters, for that is the best of all conveyances when
+available. They are sure to use the greatest expedition,
+and to have the best sailing-vessel. An officer coming
+out with convoy in a transport to join his regiment is
+quite <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">une autre chose</i>, and to be as much avoided.</p>
+
+<p>We have for the last three days had a touch of your
+late weather, and have had snow on the ground to the
+sea’s edge every night fresh, and remaining all day on
+the ground. It is still not very cold in reality, and
+indeed less so than could be wished, for if colder, we
+should feel it less. This seems paradoxical, but the truth
+is, that the ground here is not hard, and the snow, when
+trodden upon in the streets, melts, and forms a most
+chilling mud, and there is a cold evaporation going on
+worse than a hard frost. It is here every day like the
+first beginning of a cold thaw.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_372">[Pg 372]</span></p>
+
+<p>Yesterday one of my deputies, passing through here,
+dined with me. He is a very gentleman-like, quiet, and
+most diligent character, and I only hope my mention
+of him, in particular to General Pakenham, the Adjutant-general,
+coupled with that of Colonel Royals, whose
+Adjutant he has been, may do him some service. He
+has been down at Coimbra, and elsewhere. His name is
+Arden, and he is a lieutenant in the 61st. He was last
+from St. Andero, and told me a curious story about a
+late flag-of-truce there.</p>
+
+<p>Much of our clothing was, you may have heard, carried
+to Santona, near there, as a prize. Many of our men
+were, consequently, in absolute tatters. Lord Wellington
+proposed to Soult to buy it at a valuation, and let the
+Governor of Santona have the money to pay his garrison.
+Soult agreed, and gave an order, with a pass. Mr. Drake,
+the Commissary, was ordered to go into Santona, in consequence,
+with a flag to treat. Instead of one trumpeter,
+five persons improperly went with him. The French
+officer on the post came out, told him he did not understand
+a flag-of-truce with five persons, and the Spaniards
+drawn up so near, that he might suspect treachery, and
+must do his duty, though Soult’s orders and pass might
+be all regular. In short, said he, “I return in, and in
+one minute I fire a gun at you; so make the best of
+your way off.” Though the party offered to be taken in
+as prisoners, the Frenchman went in; so off they ran,
+and just as they turned the corner of a house, a twenty-four
+pounder was after them. The Governor was angry
+with the officer. A new flag with one person advanced:
+Drake was admitted, but was blinded for nearly a league;
+and yet the person near him and another, let in afterwards,
+were permitted to see all. When the mission was
+understood, and the party discovered to be civilians, the
+Governor was very polite. He gave them good wine,
+but bad bread and meat, which the power of fancy made<span class="pagenum" id="Page_373">[Pg 373]</span>
+Drake think was horseflesh. He then said that the
+shoes, gaiters, pantaloons, and some of the caps, his men
+then wore, so that as to those the mission was too late;
+but the jackets they were welcome to purchase, with some
+other things, and a bargain was soon made. The Governor
+then said, “I know your road home is infamous
+to St. Andero—you shall return in our privateer row-barge.”
+This they did in a very short time, and the
+finale was a formal complaint from the Spanish authorities
+at St. Andero, against Drake, for having dared to
+let a French row-boat enter St. Andero without their
+leave and their pass. When in the town all the children,
+&amp;c., crowded round Drake and his party to see an Englishman.
+This made the Governor very angry, and he
+had them dispersed, asking them “what there was to
+look at in an Englishman?” at which they shouted under
+his nose—“<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Viva los Ingleses! Viva! Viva!</i>” I wish
+the higher class of Spaniards were as staunch as the
+peasantry and rabble.</p>
+
+<p><em>Saturday.</em>—Our regular mail has not yet arrived; so
+your papers up to the 11th have been in most constant
+request; for, though there was one here up to the 13th,
+there was no regular set to the 11th. The snow has
+ended in torrents of cold rain again; the roads, almost
+more impassable, if that be possible, than they were before,
+of course impede all movement, even if intended. Nothing
+but a rising or commotions, would tempt us out,
+and that must be without cannon in a great measure, and
+dependant for provisions principally on the country, as
+our transport diminishes daily in the army, from the
+death of mules, or desertion of muleteers.</p>
+
+<p>The life of the subaltern officers just now is very
+arduous and unpleasant; winter quarters they certainly
+have, but that is all; four or five in a room, comforts
+very few, a great deal of duty with forage parties, and
+going to Passages for corn, bread, &amp;c., and always in the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_374">[Pg 374]</span>
+wet, and up to the knees in mud. Matters, however,
+must, in my opinion, end soon.</p>
+
+<p>We have French papers to the 20th, and by them find
+the Allies at Langres, Dijon, and Lyons; we are told
+that they are well received. Upon this it must very
+much turn at last. The news from the French camp and
+from Bayonne is of peace. Our mayor has had a letter
+from his confidential friend at Bayonne. The basis was
+at last agreed upon on both sides, and a congress to take
+place at Basle. This may be fabricated, for the purpose
+of keeping the country and army here quiet until the
+event be really so. The French must now or never get
+rid of Bonaparte, if they wish it. It is not very flattering
+to the Bourbons, that even the repeated sufferings and
+disasters the nation has endured from Bonaparte scarcely
+seem to be able to rouse up the least attachment to
+them; and that even the last necessity seems hardly to
+make the people willing to run any risks for the old
+royal family. Yet I am almost sure the feeling would
+rapidly spread, from the sort of despair now prevailing as
+to <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">la pauvre France</i>, if a good beginning could be but
+once made.</p>
+
+<p>You must remember the article of capitulation as to
+the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Commissaire de Guerre</i> and his family, the brother’s
+wife, and two daughters, &amp;c., at St. Sebastian. They
+have never yet returned to France, and are now here.
+The exchange of the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Commissaire</i> could never be arranged;
+and the ladies, though offered to return without
+him, would not do so, expecting that he would every day
+be able to accompany them. Lord Wellington let them
+remain at Passages, until the matter was finally settled;
+and there they have been all the time in the same house
+with one of our Commissaries, Mr. M——. And now,
+when they were all to go back, the latter has declared
+himself the admirer professed of the youngest girl, and
+they are after all halted here at St. Jean de Luz until he<span class="pagenum" id="Page_375">[Pg 375]</span>
+can marry her, and then the rest of the party pass into
+the French lines. I met them at dinner yesterday;
+they are a pleasant family. The girl pleasing and rather
+pretty, and in the English style; the mother a clever
+woman; the other girl not pretty, but odd, and, I think,
+clever.</p>
+
+<p>Our new Admiral is arrived, having left England on
+the 21st. All our mails are thus forestalled, as we have
+still only mail papers and letters to the 5th. We are
+told that there is no news in particular, but that all
+is warlike. Our story here is, however, of a still later
+date, and may possibly still be true. The only other
+news we have is from Catalonia; and that, it is to
+be feared, is bad. You will, however, get it before you
+have this, I conclude, from the <cite>Gazette</cite>. General Donkin
+told me his letters stated that we had made an attack on
+Moulins del Rey on the Lobregat, near Barcelona; that
+the Spaniards were to cross the river and turn the
+French: that they were too slow and too late, and so the
+whole plan failed; but that we suffered but little, and
+that the loss was nearly all Spanish, who lost two colonels
+killed. I do not believe that all Spain would drive
+Suchet or his army out, except by time, and wear and
+tear—never by force. The Government, however, have
+behaved well, I believe, as to the late French attempts
+through Ferdinand, and through our English hero—Palafox.</p>
+
+<p>I am sorry not to be able still to admire the latter.
+It is mortifying to strike out the name of one of the few
+Spanish heroes which this five years’ war has produced.
+I am now, however, satisfied that the Spanish insurrection,
+and all its good consequences, was owing to the
+thorough ignorance and want of calculation, and of
+information and judgment of the Spaniards. If they
+had had more common sense, and knowledge of the true
+state of things, even their zeal and patriotism (which I<span class="pagenum" id="Page_376">[Pg 376]</span>
+admit were considerable) would never have induced them
+to adopt a course so devoid of all prospect of a favourable
+result, and which every thinking, impartial, able man
+must have pronounced a desperate mad scheme. We owe
+it principally, I am sure, to their excessive pride and
+ignorance, their good opinion, yet want of knowledge of
+themselves. And this accounts for the most able men at
+first all going the wrong way.</p>
+
+<p><em>Sunday, 30th, Post-day.</em>—Nothing but wind and rain,
+wind and rain for ever, and no more news. Some of the
+deserters say that the French head-quarters are removed
+to my old place, Mont de Marsan; but I should think
+that this can scarcely be yet. The new Admiral dined
+at head-quarters yesterday, but I understand, has brought
+little news. One ship under his orders, it is feared, has
+been lost already, as we have a report of a sloop of war,
+<em>The Holly</em>, lost at Passages, and several of the crew with
+it. This is certainly a terrible coast. There is now a
+vessel riding in the bay here, very uneasy, and cannot
+enter; and one was as nearly as possible lost yesterday
+morning close to Sacoa; the surf broke over her. The
+exertions of the French pilots were astonishing.</p>
+
+<p><em>Sunday, later, 5 o’clock, 30th.</em>—We have two French
+officers come out here from England to seek a better fate
+by a little <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">intrigo</i>, I suppose. One is a Basque of this
+country on half-pay from our service, and the other,
+a Monsieur La Fitte, I believe a clever man, and a La
+Vendée hero.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_377">[Pg 377]</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXI">CHAPTER XXI.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="fs80" style="margin-left: 2em; text-indent: -2em;">Army Supplies—Offending Villages—Symptoms of Work—Arrival of the
+Duke D’Angoulême—The Bridge across the Adour—Wellington and his
+Chief Engineer—His Activity.</p>
+
+<p class="right fs80">
+Head-quarters, St. Jean de Luz,<br>
+<span style="padding-right: 2em">February 2, 1814.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="no-indent"><span class="smcap">My dear M——</span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span style="padding-left: 2em">Here</span> we remain absolutely tied by the leg by the
+horrible state of the roads, and weather, and without
+any regular news from England. Nothing but reports
+on the side of France which would encourage us to proceed;
+and, on the sea-side, of heavy gales, and lost
+vessels. I am just now driven in by a furious hailstorm,
+and yet the weather is mild, and has been till this moment
+pleasant enough. We have two ships in the little
+bay here; one full of hay, which has been four days
+nearly within three hundred yards of the shore, and in
+hourly danger of drifting on the beach—yet we have not
+been able, in spite of our distress, to get out a truss; and
+the other a brig transport, empty, and driven in here by
+stress of weather. A frigate was also off here all yesterday,
+apparently labouring much, and fearful of the coast.
+We certainly have undertaken a bold thing in wintering
+in such a place, but it was a choice of difficulties.</p>
+
+<p>If we had money we should do well, but that is as
+scarce as anything else. Plenty of supplies would come
+in from the right from the French, had we cash to give
+in return. As it is, in consequence of the little ready
+money we gave at first, a great quantity of cattle, food,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_378">[Pg 378]</span>
+&amp;c., has been obtained, but now we are reduced to Treasury
+Bills, and that cannot last, and the loss is very great.
+Even the muleteers get a past payment now in those
+bills, and the consequence is that a person may buy them
+with dollars at the rate of 7<em>s.</em> 4<em>d.</em>, and, I believe, 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>
+a dollar. The army is also six months, and the staff
+seven months in arrear of their pay.</p>
+
+<p>We have, however, I believe, plenty of bread and biscuit,
+and meal for a month with the army and corn at
+Passages in abundance. The short transport from thence
+is almost too much for us, and the supply is by no means
+general to the animals, whilst long forage is quite a rarity.
+The destruction in the oxen is frightful in the rear. Our
+great depôt is as far back as Palencia, and even there, in
+store, the cattle die very fast, and the moment they march
+they fall away to nothing and die by fifties. Our Commissary-general
+almost despairs of getting more up,
+although he has made depôts of bran and straw, &amp;c., on
+the road, to try and obviate the total want of food. It is
+now in contemplation to ship cattle from St. Andero,
+where there is a store; but then we have rather a scarcity
+of naval transports also. Cattle would come in as fast as
+we wished from twenty leagues to our right, could we but
+pay for it. As it is, I am almost inclined to think that
+we shall, as a choice of evils, be obliged, in spite of the
+roads, to move towards our right in quest of food.</p>
+
+<p>Two of the villages in that direction have justly incurred
+Lord Wellington’s displeasure by plundering and
+seizing our forage parties, of which we have lately lost
+several. One or two were taken by the peasants of those
+two villages, and Lord Wellington has issued a proclamation
+addressed to them and that country, reminding
+them that he told them to remain at home, and be quiet,
+and to take no part, and that if they did so he would
+protect them; but that he would not have this treachery
+in return. If they did not like this proposal, well and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_379">[Pg 379]</span>
+good, then let them quit their <em>foyers</em> and leave their villages,
+and take the consequence, and he should be prepared
+to meet them as enemies; but they must make
+this election. The curé of one of these villages was carried
+off as a hostage for their good behaviour in future.
+We have strong reports of commotions and internal
+dissatisfactions in France, and that Bonaparte is reduced
+to concentrate his army round Paris. If this be true
+Lord Wellington must be half mad about the roads. I
+find he is gone out to-day to look about him. Two nine-pounders
+have just drawn up opposite my windows with
+eight horses each, and the men have left their guns under
+the charge of the Provost guard. I suppose they are on
+the march. I must inquire what this means.</p>
+
+<p><em>February 3rd.</em>—The artillery is said to mean nothing;
+but still I think if we get fine weather for a week we
+shall have a start. In confirmation of what I have
+written above, as to the loss of cattle, I will give you two
+instances: three hundred and sixty head of convalescent
+bullocks, which had been left at Vittoria to get into order,
+were marched for the army; sixty only have arrived thus
+far, all the rest have been left at stations between, or been
+given to the different alcaldes, and receipts taken for them—a
+new mode lately adopted. Five hundred of another
+lot of fresh bullocks, collected at Palencia, were marched
+all this way, three hundred only have reached Vittoria,
+and all the bad road and scarcity of food is yet to come.
+This is really quite alarming.</p>
+
+<p><em>February 3rd, later.</em>—I find the guns mean nothing;
+they are only going on to the front to replace two now
+there, which are to come back to refit. Still, however, if
+we could but get fine weather, I think we should make a
+stir. Bets were going on as to a peace, or our being at
+Bayonne and across the Adour in six weeks; and symptoms
+of a move shortly are perceptible. The rain, however,
+continues. Colonel Bunbury made one attempt to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_380">[Pg 380]</span>
+go to the right of our army the day before yesterday, but
+only got half way, and is unwell in consequence. He is
+to leave this either in Lord Wellington’s carriage, or to
+go round by water to Passages. The sea is, however,
+quiet, and now only torments our anxious curiosity by
+throwing up parts of wrecks and bodies. A ship-cable,
+with the G.R., was found at Bidart, and three men and a
+woman. Some say that the latter had silk stockings on.
+One body cast up here was half eaten, and I saw a backbone
+only yesterday. The bodies of the mules float in
+and out every tide.</p>
+
+<p>As a proof of the state of forage here, and of the
+manner in which we are imposed upon, five shillings were
+yesterday demanded for a sack of chopped furze from the
+surrounding hills, and thus sold in the market. Straw
+fetches two shillings for a small handful, of which a horse
+would eat two or three in a day.</p>
+
+<p>I have just seen a Spanish Captain who was taken
+prisoner little more than three months since. He has
+been to Maçon on the Saone since, where the Allies now
+are, about six hundred miles from this, having been first
+plundered of his great coat and pantaloons. He was
+about thirty-five days getting there on foot all the way,
+staid there forty days, and then was about thirty-six days
+more returning here, also on foot, having been exchanged.
+He says the notion is that we have the Duke d’Angoulême
+here, and that very many wish it to be so. This
+is like my finding many persuaded that we had the Duke
+de Berri with our army when I was a prisoner. I suspect,
+however, we shall in part verify this notion now, as
+I just hear one of the best quarters in the town is to be
+cleared immediately for an unknown great man, now at
+Passages, and just arrived from England. At first they
+even talked of moving the Adjutant-general, Pakenham,
+to make room for him. This mystery will, however,
+soon be cleared up. Rain, which is never pleasant, was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_381">[Pg 381]</span>
+never so disagreeable as now. The fate of France may
+depend upon it.</p>
+
+<p>The owner of my house is a well-bred woman, who
+lives in a great house opposite. She lives in one corner
+of it, whilst General Wimpfen and his staff, and Colonel
+M——, his wife, and three children, occupy all the best
+part. She has, she told me, thirteen houses round here,
+five are burnt, and two coming down, and yet she seems
+resigned and satisfied that we have really behaved very
+well; that it is the fate of war, and owing to the ill
+fortune of having property in a frontier country near
+armies, and is quite inevitable. She only exclaims, “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Oh
+la pauvre France!</i>” This is a novel language to the
+French of late.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th, Friday.</em>—Still rain, rain, rain, all night. All yesterday,
+all the night before, and still continuing. Oh!
+that we had your frost instead; all things would have
+been very different.</p>
+
+<p>The great man just arrived, and now here, turns
+out to be the Duke d’Angoulême, and Count Damas is
+come out with him, but till the plot thickens the Duke is
+<em>incog.</em></p>
+
+<p>Our pontoons from the Bidassoa are now passing over
+the St. Jean de Luz bridge. This looks like something,
+and we have to-day at last a dry day, or at least a half
+day, for I must not be too sure yet. The wind is getting
+round to the north a little, or north-east, and if that remains
+it will do, especially as it is full moon; though I
+have not much more faith in the moon, in respect of
+weather than Lord Wellington has, who says it is nonsense.
+In addition to all your news, we have French
+news of a battle at St. Dizier, near Chalons, and that the
+Allies have been beaten. It is to be feared that it is not
+all to go so smoothly as hitherto, unless a rising takes
+place.</p>
+
+<p>All odd strangers who come to head-quarters here have<span class="pagenum" id="Page_382">[Pg 382]</span>
+been long called tigers. Of course we now have “The
+Royal Tiger.” This is a head-quarters’ joke for you.
+We have had for some time here a Madame de ——,
+the wife of the Commandant of ——, come to make
+arrangements beforehand, and here she certainly has been
+making many little arrangements not much to the advantage
+of her husband, and not quite consistent with
+conjugal fidelity. When the Commandant arrived yesterday
+at last, she immediately began to blame him for
+his unnecessary delay, and insinuated that another lady
+was the cause. This is very hard upon a poor old man,
+but I suppose the lady thought it right to take the
+initiative.</p>
+
+<p>The publication of the Leipsig letters, which George
+mentions, of Murray’s, will be very curious, but I think
+it is not right to let these be published. Similar letters
+were taken in Spain more than once, and police reports.
+The old letters which were too late (those I mean from
+you) were from the Secretary of State’s office, not from
+the Judge-Advocate’s office. They were probably mislaid
+at the former.</p>
+
+<p><em>Sunday, Post-day.</em>—A bright sun and a smiling sky,
+with a smooth bay covered with ships, quite a Vernet.
+I have just returned from the church service on the
+beach, in a square of about two thousand five hundred
+guards, and all the staff here present. As I returned I
+picked up your letter of the 26th, and papers at the post-office.
+I have just got some business come in, for desertion
+has commenced again now that we are quiet and
+idle. A corporal and twelve men all went off together
+a few nights since, all foreigners, and I believe French.
+Our people at home are very careless in selecting soldiers
+to enlist into our corps from the prisons. What can be
+better for a Frenchman in a prison-ship than to receive
+4<em>l.</em>, new clothes, arms, &amp;c., and then to be sent into his
+own country, and put in a situation to join his comrades,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_383">[Pg 383]</span>
+with only the difficulty of watching a good occasion. In
+yesterday’s return, however, nine men have deserted,
+mostly English. Your English news is all good as far as
+it goes, and if this weather will but hold a little, you will
+hear of more glory and more broken heads here. In addition
+to the pontoons which have passed up, scaling-ladders
+have gone through here. If we could but cross
+the mouth of the Adour below Bayonne, and get at the
+citadel at once by scaling and storm, there would be
+something like a blow, and the town would be at our
+mercy immediately.</p>
+
+<p>We have some gentlemen here, but very few, who
+begin to find the work too warm for them. I have been
+saved two cases of this sort, very awkward ones, by resignations,
+and have been consulted on two others by
+General Cole, very suspicious ones, but not so clear as the
+other two who are let off thus, to save the reputation of
+the regiments. An officer should think a little before he
+engages in service, such as we have had here the last few
+years.</p>
+
+<p>More business, so I must put an end to this quickly.
+I have not seen the Royal Tiger, but am to dine at head-quarters
+to-day, and hope he may be there. The French
+ladies are staunch Bonapartists. They say we shall have
+another Quiberon business, and that the Allies are coming
+into France the same old road as twenty years since, and
+will return by it.</p>
+
+<p>I have been so pressed to change my old mare, which
+was in high condition, that, to oblige Major D—— of
+the Guards, I have done so, and taken “Mother Goose”
+(a pet name of General Hulse’s formerly) in exchange,
+and fifteen guineas to boot. Mother Goose is a very
+good mare, but never would stand fire. She is not so
+large or showy as my old lady, but I like her much. She
+was valued at eighty-five guineas, and has always sold for
+that. I put mine at a hundred guineas. I gave more—four<span class="pagenum" id="Page_384">[Pg 384]</span>
+hundred dollars; as dollars cannot be had under 7<em>s.</em>,
+and the exchange is still higher on the muleteer Treasury
+bills. These, however, I should not think it right to
+deal in.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, St. Jean de Luz, Thursday, February
+10th, 1814.</em>—Thus far the week has passed without my
+having commenced my usual Journal to you; for I have
+had a return of business, and also several gentlemen to
+swear, and certificates and affidavits to make out, to
+enable friends to take out administration in England to
+deceased officers’ estates. We have also again had two
+fine days, and I have been able to get a ride or two in
+consequence. On Sunday, at head-quarters, I met the
+Royal Tiger at dinner—the Duke d’Angoulême and
+Monsieur Damas.</p>
+
+<p>Before dinner I got into conversation with the Duke,
+without knowing who he was, for they were both dressed
+alike in a fancy uniform, very like our navy Captain’s
+undress, a plain blue coat, with two gold epaulettes. He
+seemed much pleased with his prospects, and very sanguine
+as to the result. The day was fine; he was sure
+the weather would last a month. I said that the natives
+told me we should have rain, and no settled weather
+until March was half over. He was sure I had been
+misinformed; the fact was, however, that it rained half
+that very night and the whole of the next day. Every day
+he expected to proceed to France, and saw all difficulties
+vanish. “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Les pauvres conscripts de Bayonne fondaient
+comme la neige; ils étoient presque tous à l’hôpital</i>,” and
+so on.</p>
+
+<p>That we shall make a dash soon, unless peace prevents
+it, I fully believe from all I see and hear, and an embargo
+which has been laid on all small vessels in the river here
+confirms this. We have also to-day an order for twelve
+days’ hay at Passages, for which we are to send to the
+ships ourselves, as Government have just now sent us out<span class="pagenum" id="Page_385">[Pg 385]</span>
+a good lot of English hay, and if we march it must be all
+left behind, for we have no means of carrying it with us.
+At least the animals will thus all start with a belly full,
+which is something, and to many a novelty.</p>
+
+<p>I do not think much of the little Duke; his figure and
+manners are by no means imposing, and his talents appear
+not very great. He seems affable and good-tempered,
+and though not seemingly a being to make a kingdom for
+himself, he may do very well to govern one when well
+established. Lord Wellington was in his manner droll
+towards them. As they went out, we drew up on each
+side, and Lord Wellington put them first; they bowed
+and scraped right and left so oddly, and so actively,
+that he followed with a face much nearer a grin than
+a smile.</p>
+
+<p>They were at church on Sunday, but I cannot learn
+with any effect; hitherto we cannot judge, for this small
+corner dare not speak out their minds, if they were in his
+favour. We hear of a strong disposition at Bordeaux and
+in Brittany. I have as yet seen only apathy and indifference,
+but I still expect a burst if the war should last.</p>
+
+<p>I must now go to Lord Wellington about a poor old
+Doctor, who has been charged with having a soldier
+servant. I expect a jobation for what I shall state in his
+favour, for this is a very heinous offence in the eyes of
+Lord Wellington.</p>
+
+<p><em>Same day, later.</em>—Lord Wellington, as I supposed,
+insisted on the Doctor’s being tried, but was good-humoured,
+though just going out with the hounds, when
+in general he does not like interruption. This particular
+Doctor had a right to a servant of his own regiment, but
+he had one of another. I suggested that he had never
+joined his own regiment since he was appointed, and
+could not, therefore, have one of that corps. “Then he
+should have gone without,” was the answer, and as for
+the Doctor’s good character, that went for nothing. Lord<span class="pagenum" id="Page_386">[Pg 386]</span>
+Wellington never attends to individual hardships, but to
+the general good, and as many abuses go on at depôts in
+the rear, every time he discovers an instance he is inexorable
+in trying to punish, especially when he finds it out
+himself, as he did this in another trial of the same poor
+Doctor, by some of the evidence. The Doctor, foolish
+man, desired it might be put on the minutes that he
+would ask such a witness no question, as he had been his
+servant at the time, and was so still.</p>
+
+<p>I have just heard an anecdote which shows strongly
+the Spanish character, and also why Lord Wellington
+likes Colonel Dickson as his chief artillery officer. On
+the 9th of November last the order was given for the
+troops to march to the attack at four the next morning.
+This was when we were at Vera. Every one had known
+for weeks that this was to take place the earliest moment
+it was possible; and that the fall of Pamplona and better
+weather were the only reasons of the army being in such
+a position as we then were, perched up on the sides of all
+the mountains so late in the year, with the prospect of
+snow daily. At nine that night General Frere, the
+Spanish General, who is considered to be one of their best,
+sent word that the Spanish army under his command was
+without any ammunition, and could not get any up in
+time. At ten o’clock Dickson was sent for, just as he
+was going to bed. Instead of saying nothing could be
+done, or making any difficulties, he proposed giving the
+Spaniards immediately the reserve ammunition of the
+nearest English division, and said that he would send out
+orders instantly, and undertake to get the English reserve
+replaced in time, and this was done.</p>
+
+<p>Poor E—— got a very loud discourse all the way
+home from church last Sunday. The oxen of the pontoon
+train were all dying, and in cross roads were useless, for
+they could not move singly except with difficulty, much
+less draw a pontoon of two tons weight. It had been<span class="pagenum" id="Page_387">[Pg 387]</span>
+reported in consequence that three troops of artillery
+must be dismounted to draw the pontoon. Lord Wellington
+was vexed excessively. “Where are the pontoon
+horses?” “None were ever sent out from England;
+never had anything but oxen, and five hundred have died
+since we left Frenada.” This answer still did not satisfy
+him. He must, notwithstanding, have known it from
+the returns which he sees, but still he seemed, though he
+could not tell why, to think poor E—— blameable. The
+latter said that he had no orders to send to England for
+horses, and no one seemed to think they would be necessary,
+and he had never had them.</p>
+
+<p><em>Friday, 11th.</em>—I went last night to our third ball, in
+hopes of seeing the Duke d’Angoulême there, and to observe
+how he was received. He did not attend. All our
+other great men were there—Lord Wellington and all
+the French, as yet very few in numbers. The owner of
+General Cole’s quarters near Ustaritz, I believe named
+Larrique, was there. He had come over to pay his respects
+to the Bourbons. He was always royally disposed,
+and had been once imprisoned for this inclination. I am
+told several others have been to the Duke to pay their
+respects merely, but this is all they dared do as yet.
+They assure him the landholders and peasantry further
+on only wait our advance, and the absence of the French
+army, to rise and declare for the Bourbons. If they do
+not take this line soon, and that decidedly, peace may
+make it too late, and frustrate all these petty plans of
+counter-revolution in the bud. The Duke seems quite
+ignorant of the people here, and of the country, and those
+Basques I have talked to do not seem to know much
+more of him. The few squires left may, however, give
+the tone to the rest.</p>
+
+<p>I hear that we have quite ruined Bayonne market by
+our higher prices, &amp;c., and things are not only dear there,
+but not to be had, for no one will there give the price we<span class="pagenum" id="Page_388">[Pg 388]</span>
+do for such luxuries, as poultry, vegetables, &amp;c., certainly
+are; and therefore they are brought here.</p>
+
+<p><em>Saturday, 12th.</em>—The news now is, that Soult and
+about three thousand infantry, and one thousand eight
+hundred cavalry, are gone off to the rear, and it seems to
+be believed; for it has come through so many channels
+to us. Another report is, that seven of the thirty tyrants
+(senators) have gone over to the Allies, to pay their respects
+to the Bourbons; this is not in such credit as the
+other story. In short, we have what the military men
+call “shaves” (I suppose barbers’ stories) every day and
+every hour. The best fact I can tell you is, that we have
+had three days’ fine weather now together, and this last is
+absolutely warm, I only fear too warm to last; thermometer
+in my room, window open, and no fire, 58° in the
+sun. I rode a league out and back yesterday almost
+without a splash. The mule roads across the country,
+though improved, are, however, still very bad; three
+more such days will, nevertheless, do wonders, and about
+that time I hope we shall be ready.</p>
+
+<p>All the carpenters, &amp;c., are ordered from the Guards to
+the front. The Rocket Brigade also went up last night;
+and ships are ordered round from Passages. Dr. Macgregor,
+who was there yesterday, tells me that he thinks
+it will be three days before they will have procured ropes
+and all they require with them. This smiling sun
+makes every one cheerful, though it prognosticates many
+broken heads.</p>
+
+<p>The only thing, it appears to me, the Guards look blue
+about, is the prospect of an aquatic expedition. Our
+sick, though nothing compared to last year, have increased
+this last month. To show you how much depends on
+seasoning them, two regiments, the 84th, and, I think,
+the 62nd, who came out two months since, and have
+scarcely had any work, but arrived after all the bad
+quarters in the mountains, and have not marched forty<span class="pagenum" id="Page_389">[Pg 389]</span>
+miles and been generally housed, are absolutely unfit for
+the field. One has four hundred and more sick out of
+six hundred. They are obliged, in consequence, to be
+sent in a body, as regiments, to Vera, one of the hospital
+stations. They are, I believe, two battalions, and mostly
+young lads or elderly men, neither of which class of soldiers
+can stand this work at all. Some of our old regiments
+have scarcely a man in the hospital, except the
+wounded, and it is astonishing how well some of the
+Portuguese regiments stand it, who are more exposed
+than our men. The last month’s rest, and the new
+clothes, which most regiments have now received, will
+revive the army amazingly; some who are still without
+their clothes are, to be sure, absolutely in rags, or like
+the king of the beggars.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, St. Jean de Luz, Sunday the 13th,
+Post-day, 5 o’clock.</em>—Our “shave” of to-day is a Congress.
+Yesterday the Allies were at Paris. I am sorry to say
+the sea has risen, and the wind changed, and the weather
+threatens again. All are hard at work, however, at the
+bridges, &amp;c. It will be a ticklish thing to cross at the
+mouth of the Adour.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, St. Jean de Luz, February 15th, 1814.</em>—The
+plot now thickens a little. Lord Wellington was
+off at three in the morning yesterday for Hasparren, for
+two or three days, to superintend a movement which is
+to take place: first, on our right, to drive the French
+divisions of General Foy and Harispe across the Gave
+d’Oleron, and prevent their molesting our right flank,
+whilst the passage of the Adour is attempted on the left.
+The accounts this morning are, that the troops assembled
+for this purpose yesterday, but that no affair has hitherto
+taken place. General Pakenham was yesterday at Passages
+to see to the shipping there, and clear out the
+hospital; and to-day he has gone over to the right, to
+report to Lord Wellington and to assist there. All is in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_390">[Pg 390]</span>
+motion: two bridges are preparing, one, as I supposed,
+below Bayonne, and another above; the former will be
+accompanied by an aquatic expedition.</p>
+
+<p>With regard to this grand bridge, a most provoking
+occurrence has taken place. An embargo was laid on
+about twenty-four vessels in the St. Jean de Luz river
+to form this bridge, and to assist in the conveyance of
+troops, &amp;c. Old Ocean, however, did not approve; and
+as he is not under Lord Wellington’s orders, and seems,
+like the Spaniards, to like to thwart Lord Wellington a
+little, he (Old Ocean) threw up the day before yesterday
+such a mound of shingle at the mouth of the river, that
+he has most effectually embargoed the whole shipping,
+and made a dry bank, a hundred feet wide, quite firm
+across the entrance, which all yesterday was used as a
+road backwards and forwards from Sibour to this place.
+From the present state of the tides there was no prospect
+of an opening in the natural way for a week and more,
+until the springs; so to-day a fatigue party of the Guards
+are at work digging and shovelling.</p>
+
+<p>In my early walk this morning I found them at it,
+with a young engineer officer, doing it, it struck me,
+very ill. I could not help meddling; however, I had no
+weight, until an old Frenchman came, sent by the mayor,
+to whom I advised them to apply; and then, as the
+young engineer did not understand French, I acted as
+interpreter. The old man’s plan and mine agreed, and
+so I carried my point. It is hoped we shall be able to
+dig a way through by this evening, and to-morrow to let
+the shipping out. It has never happened before since
+we have been here, though very often the river is nearly
+dry.</p>
+
+<p>One brig of war has arrived and the <em>Gleaner</em> ketch,
+and Lieutenant Douglas is on shore here superintending
+the fastening together of a quantity of masts, &amp;c., to
+form a boom, I believe, across the Adour—I suppose to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_391">[Pg 391]</span>
+prevent anything floating down from destroying the
+bridge. I heard yesterday, what one can scarcely believe,
+that the naval officer asked leave to survey the mouth of
+the Adour, but that Lord Wellington told him to go to
+the engineers, and they would give him plans and soundings,
+&amp;c.: that he went to E—— accordingly, and found
+he had none at all; and Toffini’s coast stops short at
+Passages!</p>
+
+<p>It is surely very odd, now that we have been in front
+of Bayonne for three months, that no plans should have
+been sent out, without being asked for, from England.
+I since have heard from E—— that he did write, and
+has nothing in consequence but a little printed plan of
+Bayonne, and no soundings, &amp;c. I trust still that Lord
+Wellington will poke out his way across. Our outposts’
+reports to-day are that the Cossacks are close to Paris,
+and Fontainebleau pillaged by them. I am sorry for
+that, as that palace escaped the Revolution almost entirely.
+The truth of the whole story may well be questioned.</p>
+
+<p><em>February 16th.</em>—No news from the right; no one returned
+yet; the reports are, that the French do not
+stand, but retire before us. In the mean time things
+are going on well here. The weather is fine again, the
+sea quiet, the river has quite cleared his course, and to-day
+the navigation is open. The fort at the mouth of
+the Adour sent a few shots against the <em>Lyra</em> brig when
+cruising yesterday to inspect; but no harm done. Every
+one is busy.</p>
+
+<p>Poor —— does not seem to draw well with Lord
+Wellington. The latter received him so queerly at the
+last interview, that —— says he shall do all he can to
+execute what he is ordered, and be quiet. Lord Wellington
+never consulted him, and has never even told
+him exactly where the grand bridge which he is preparing
+is to be; and the consequence is, the width of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_392">[Pg 392]</span>
+the river has not been precisely ascertained at the place
+intended, where the engineers have instruments which
+would do it in a minute, if they were ordered. Without
+orders they cannot, as it would require a guard of three
+hundred or four hundred men to go near enough, and
+that can only be with orders. But then, were I ——, I
+should ask for the guard and do it, propose it first, or
+try and get it quietly from the Adjutant-general without
+troubling Lord Wellington, and let him find the thing
+done. —— seems to be too much of the English official
+school; has too much regard to forms and regular orders.
+All this <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">entre nous</i>. Elphinstone of the Engineers tells
+me he wrote for a plan of Bayonne four months since,
+and has only received a very miserable one, of scarcely
+any use.</p>
+
+<p>The grand bridge is to be formed of the largest vessels
+now in the harbour—about fifty of them. Pontoons
+would never do. They are to be about 25 feet or 27 feet
+apart, and cable bridges between to communicate with
+planks, each vessel carrying its own materials to plank,
+&amp;c. This is a grand plan, but rather arduous. I hope
+it may answer, as it will be an event in military matters,
+crossing a great river at the mouth below the fortified
+town, and that in the hands of the enemy on both sides
+of the river.</p>
+
+<p><em>February 17th, Thursday.</em>—Still fine weather, and no
+one returned, and no news from Lord Wellington. I
+had a report here through the emigrés, and <em>son Altesse
+Royale</em>, as he is now called, that the Allies are within a
+league of Paris. “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Quelle mauvaises nouvelles! ils m’ont
+dit.</i>” Their alarm at the reported Congress at Chatillon
+sur Seine, and Lord Castlereagh, has to-day of course a
+little subsided in consequence. A peace with Bonaparte
+would ruin them for ever. If Paris now declares itself,
+on the other hand it will spread, and the whole business,
+in my opinion, be at an end in their favour. If not, it<span class="pagenum" id="Page_393">[Pg 393]</span>
+is clear that their party is very small, and their interests
+forgotten.</p>
+
+<p><em>The 18th, Friday.</em>—Still Lord Wellington not returned;
+but we had some news of what has been done
+on the right. The French retired skirmishing, but
+would never stand to let us charge. They were obliged
+to remain longer than they wished to cover some guns
+which they carried off; and also, the evening before last,
+they intended to take up their ground for the night in a
+position which Lord Wellington thought it would suit
+him to drive them from. By doing this late in the day
+they were obliged to resist more than they probably
+otherwise would, if they had expected it, and been prepared
+for the retreat. We have taken about ten or
+twelve officers prisoners, and about two hundred men.
+Some say that we might have had as many thousands,
+could we have been two hours sooner. These things are
+always, however, said. Supposing that we had been two
+hours sooner, the French would have been just where
+they were; and it is forgotten that if we had moved
+sooner, they might probably just have done the same
+thing. We have ourselves sustained some loss, and that
+in a greater proportion of officers than men. I am told,
+about a hundred and twenty men. General Pringle is
+shot in the breast,—an awkward place, but they hope
+not badly, considering the situation. General Byng’s
+aide-de-camp, Captain Clitherow, is killed, and, I believe,
+Lieutenant Moore, of the Artillery. Aides-de-camp and
+Brigade-Majors have suffered much of late; Lord Wellington’s
+are uncommonly fortunate. I have heard also
+that Lieutenant-colonel Bruce is wounded, a Bevan
+(Major or Colonel in the Portuguese service), and some
+subalterns of the two brigades of General Byng and
+General Pringle, the only two engaged.</p>
+
+<p>By the last accounts Lord Wellington’s head-quarters
+were at Garris, near St. Palais, and the French are driven<span class="pagenum" id="Page_394">[Pg 394]</span>
+across the Bidouge, a river that runs into the Adour
+below the Gaves, and near Grammont’s place, Guiche, of
+which he is duke. The French have only picquets on
+our side the first Gave—the Gave d’Oleron, when they
+are driven across. I think Lord Wellington will return
+here to-morrow to inspect the grand bridge and the operations
+on this side, which are the most ticklish. Elphinstone
+would have his bridge ready to-morrow night
+if the materials get round in time from Passages, and
+provided one vessel is got out from our river here, for
+one could not be moved over the bar yesterday, from its
+having the guns on board, which are to be dropped into
+the Adour, to assist in moving the vessels of the bridge.
+By taking out the guns this difficulty may be got over,
+but the wind is not fair from Passages. This is the
+worst part of the business, for though the elements alone
+may be to blame, still Lord Wellington, if his plans are
+thwarted, will be in a rage with ——. He banishes the
+terms difficulty, impossibility, and responsibility from his
+vocabulary.</p>
+
+<p>The moment he has done on the right, he wants to be
+ready here, as he knows that so long as he remains there,
+the attention of the French is drawn that way, and the
+same when he shall return here. We have now no
+troops here. The guards have moved into Bidart, and
+we have now permanently occupied Biaritz in front of
+Bayonne; General Vandeleur sleeps there, and all his
+horses are unsaddled. The light division have crossed
+the Nive. The fifth moved a little more to their right,
+to occupy part of the ground of the light near Arbonne
+and Arrauntz, towards Ustaritz; and the third division,
+under General Picton, have gone up to St. Jean Pied de
+Port, but hitherto without opposition. The Adjutant-general,
+when he went himself over to the hospital stations
+of Fontarabia and Passages, routed out about fourteen
+hundred convalescents, and malingerers, and they<span class="pagenum" id="Page_395">[Pg 395]</span>
+passed through here for their regiments yesterday, for
+every man is wanted now. Unluckily, no reinforcements
+have arrived from England; why we cannot say, for the
+wind is fair, and the papers say they sailed a month
+since, and the regiments have had notice of their intended
+arrival. The artillery also expect five hundred
+horses, which would now be an inestimable treasure, as
+many are going and getting weak. There are also about
+six thousand Portuguese ready to join in Portugal, but
+who remain for want of transport, as I am told: this is
+unlucky, as they were well-seasoned recruits.</p>
+
+<p>It is curious that even latterly, ever since we left the
+mountains, almost all our advanced troops—the advanced
+line—have been Portuguese; they not only stop our deserters,
+but go off very much less themselves. From the
+terrible loss of oxen, we are all now, officers and all in
+this neighbourhood, living upon salt rations, sea-beef
+and pork. Luckily for me, however, we can now buy a
+little fresh meat. I am very much vexed with myself
+for not having desired you to send me out a good map
+of France, for I have only the department on this side
+the Adour, and the whole seat of the war is now France.
+I should like to have got the abridged or reduced Casini,
+which is used here, and liked, a map about five or six
+feet by four or five, and Stockdale’s vicinity of Bayonne,
+taken from Casini’s large one. These two would have
+been a treasure, now that we are likely to move; and I
+conclude Stockdale will go on publishing some more of
+Casini to follow us up.</p>
+
+<p>We have begun to establish a recruiting-party at head-quarters,
+to select out of the French deserters good subjects
+for the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Chasseurs Britanniques</i>, &amp;c. I hope it will
+answer, but I have my doubts. In the mean time, I
+shall have to play the part of a magistrate, and swear
+them all in. The news from Bayonne to-day is, that a
+courier arrived yesterday express from Paris in sixty<span class="pagenum" id="Page_396">[Pg 396]</span>
+hours; of course he brought something very important.
+The story in Bayonne is, that the negotiation and Congress
+is broken up already, and this is now considered
+most excellent news here, excepting by a few soldiers of
+fortune, and real lovers of their trade, who think it would
+flourish much better after a peace with Bonaparte than
+with the Bourbons. What a contrast between the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Moniteur</i>
+a year and a half since about Moscow, &amp;c., and the
+late ones about the works round Paris, and the room left—eighteen
+inches—for the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">piétons</i> only to pass, &amp;c., and
+the immense zeal and activity: <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Dejà on voit les embrassures
+pour quatres canons</i>. You will have seen all this, however,
+and have been as much amused, no doubt, as we
+have been.</p>
+
+<p>I have just seen Major D——, who is returned from
+the right. He says that we have been well received in
+general, and found a tolerable supply of everything in
+the new country we have been in. If the inhabitants
+will but stay, they will find a good market for everything;
+instead of losing the produce for nothing; and stragglers,
+single plunderers, dare not commit depredations on the
+houses in that case. The people here are in despair at
+the expected entrance of the Spaniards. We have now
+shops in abundance, and a good market, and can, with
+plenty of money, procure most things; and now we are
+on the point of being off.</p>
+
+<p><em>18th February, later.</em>—I have just been with Elphinstone,
+and seen all his drawings and plans for the grand
+bridge. They seem very good, and the whole will be
+ready by Sunday morning, provided the naval gentleman
+can carry his vessels in; but he thinks that will not do
+on account of the tides before Wednesday. Six or seven
+small boats are to be carried from here on carriages;
+these are to be launched, and are to tow across the first
+party on rafts, which are made by some platforms placed
+on the pontoons. This first party I would rather not<span class="pagenum" id="Page_397">[Pg 397]</span>
+accompany. To show you how little Lord Wellington
+listens to objections, and how he rather likes to cut up
+the routine work, I may mention that Elphinstone told
+him the quantity of plank necessary would take time, and
+make a delay. “No,” says he, “there are all your platforms
+of your batteries which have been sent out in case
+of a siege. Cut them all up.” “Then when we proceed
+with the siege what is to be done?” quoth Elphinstone.
+“Oh, work your guns in the sand until you can make
+new ones out of the pine-wood near Bayonne.” So all
+the English battering platforms have been cut up accordingly.</p>
+
+<p>At Elphinstone’s I met the Admiral, who came round
+to-day to assist, and some small vessels have arrived with
+him. We have now Sacoa choked full, and quite a flotilla
+in the open bay, with a wind right on shore into the bay.
+I only hope it will not take to blowing hard in this direction
+whilst our operations are going on. The battering
+train and siege apparatus have also arrived at Passages
+from St. Andero. This has been done quite snug; even
+Elphinstone did not know of their coming until here they
+were.</p>
+
+<p>Letters have come in from the right; all has gone on
+well there. The French are driven quite across the Gave
+de Mauleon or Soiron, as it is called in my map, a little
+river which is the left branch of the Gave d’Oleron, and
+runs into the Gave d’Oleron below Oleron town. The
+Adjutant-general writes, that the French have given up
+all that at present was wanted in that direction. Adieu!</p>
+
+<p><em>Saturday the 19th.</em>—To-day we have a French bulletin
+sent in to us of a victory over the forces of the Allies, the
+Russian army destroyed, and the French in pursuit—baggage,
+cannon, all taken. This is awkward when we
+expected daily to hear of the Allies in Paris, and it will
+have a bad effect on the cause in France, even if it is only
+a slight check to the allied armies. The French here<span class="pagenum" id="Page_398">[Pg 398]</span>
+have their proclamations printed, and <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">fleurs-de-lis</i> are
+being made. Lord Wellington says that they must wait
+until he is more advanced before they begin to circulate
+them. He is expected back to-day. The weather has
+been very cold again, and sleet or snow has just begun to
+fall. I have also to-day to acknowledge a letter from you
+of the 8th, and papers from the 2nd to the 8th inclusive.</p>
+
+<p>I am just interrupted by a noise at the Provost guard
+opposite, and the arrival of about a hundred and eighty
+French prisoners escorted by a party of the 57th regiment,
+who might with great advantage change clothes with the
+French. The latter are in general very well clothed, and
+very fine young men, a few older soldiers amongst them
+in particular. The young conscripts look rather pale and
+sickly. Our 57th men are absolutely in rags and tatters,
+here and there five or six inches of bare thigh or arm are
+visible through the patches; some have had only linen
+pantaloons all winter through. They all get their new
+clothing to-morrow at Sacoa; the whole regiment comes
+down here for that purpose, and then nearly the whole
+will have had their clothing this year, all but one or two
+regiments.</p>
+
+<p><em>Later, 4 o’clock.</em>—Lord Wellington is just returned
+from the right, and so eager is he when anything is in
+hand, that I saw him going round by the Admiral’s and
+Colonel Elphinstone’s before he went home on horseback,
+after a tolerably long ride too. The Admiral he carried
+off with him.</p>
+
+<p><em>20th February, Post-day.</em>—The first thing I saw this
+morning in my walk on the wall was Lord Wellington
+looking at the sea at half-past seven. The wind was
+strong, right into the bay, and not a ship could stir. He
+soon saw the Admiral come out also to look, and carried
+him off home. I saw Lord Wellington about some
+Courts-martial just now, and expected to be rather snubbed;
+but he was in high good humour, and I was, of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_399">[Pg 399]</span>
+course, as short as possible. The moment is, however,
+ticklish. Had the gale this morning increased, none of
+the ships in the bay, in my opinion, could have stood it.
+It was right into the bay against them, and they were
+anchored within two hundred, three hundred, or four
+hundred yards of the shore. The slip of an anchor or
+breaking of a cable would have been destruction, and we
+have now a wreck on each side of the bay, which is
+ominous and terrific to strangers and new-comers.</p>
+
+<p><em>Later.</em>—Lord Wellington is already beginning to
+provide against the failure of his bridge plan from winds
+and tides, and I understand will not wait above a day or
+two on this account. Arrangements are in consequence
+being formed to make the main movement still by the
+right altogether, and to come round on Bayonne in case
+the bridge scheme will not very speedily answer.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_400">[Pg 400]</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXII">CHAPTER XXII.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="fs80" style="margin-left: 2em; text-indent: -2em;">Movements of the Army—-Narrow Escape of Wellington—Anecdote of
+Wellington at Rodrigo—Novel Scaling Ladders—Sir Alexander Dickson—Wellington’s
+Vanity—Operations resumed—Spanish Officers—The
+Passage of the Adour—The Road to Bayonne—Death of Captain Pitts.</p>
+
+<p class="right fs80">
+Head-quarters, St. Jean de Luz,<br>
+<span style="padding-right: 1em">Tuesday, February 22, 1814.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="no-indent"><span class="smcap">My dear M——</span>,
+</p>
+
+<p><span style="padding-left: 2em">As</span> the movements going on give me now a little
+more leisure, and it is impossible to say how soon my
+opportunities of writing may be arrested by a march, I
+begin my weekly despatch early this week. Lord Wellington,
+when he returned from driving the French across
+the Gave, found his expedition here could not leave port
+owing to bad wind and tide, though all was ready. He
+therefore instantly set about new arrangements, so as to
+be independent in a great measure of the result of this
+grand bridge.</p>
+
+<p>All the divisions of the army consequently moved
+towards the right yesterday, except the Guards and the
+rest of the first division, which remain in our front backed
+by a corps of Spaniards at Guethary and Bidart, in
+advance of St. Jean de Luz, through which place, however,
+they did not march. To superintend this movement
+Lord Wellington was off again yesterday for Garris,
+near to St. Palais, with most of the head-quarters’ staff,
+Adjutant-general Pakenham remaining here on account
+of a slight illness.</p>
+
+<p>The last move left us in front of the Gave, the French<span class="pagenum" id="Page_401">[Pg 401]</span>
+still strong in Sauveterre and on a ridge of hills and
+strong ground running between the two Gaves d’Oleron
+and Pau. The plan is now, it is concluded, to drive them
+across both Gaves, and then make good our way round to
+the other side of the Adour and the citadel of Bayonne.
+In the meantime, as the plan here is still expected to take
+effect to-morrow morning early, we are all alive; the little
+bay full of shipping and small ships of war, which cruise
+backward and forwards, or anchor there, with carpenters,
+sappers, soldiers, &amp;c., on board, and all the flotilla ready
+in Sacoa, and the Admiral superintending.</p>
+
+<p>Head-quarters are come home delighted with the
+country on the Gaves, and with their reception. The
+people in many instances come in numbers to meet our
+troops instead of offering resistance. The prisoners also
+many of them say they are ready to serve <em>son Altesse
+Royale</em>, but this is rather too soon to begin, it is thought,
+for this may be only to escape and return to their old
+army.</p>
+
+<p>One young man, who was of the country, ran into his
+father’s house as they were marching by, and all the
+family were found around him. He was separated and
+marched off; but the story has been told at head-quarters,
+and General Pakenham has sent for the man back (who
+was on his way to Passages), and means to send him
+home to his friends.</p>
+
+<p>I was talking to General Pakenham yesterday about
+forming a French royalist corps out of the prisoners and
+deserters. It must be done very cautiously of course at
+first, but it would in my opinion have a good effect and
+soon increase. At present the idea that all deserters
+must be sent away from their own country to England
+deters many from deserting, who would otherwise be
+willing. This object would also do away with the disgraceful
+ideas naturally attached to desertion in a soldier’s
+mind.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_402">[Pg 402]</span></p>
+
+<p>Reports say that Lord Wellington had a narrow escape
+with his staff, whilst reconnoitring on the right in the
+late move. He is said to have been going up a hill when
+a French cavalry regiment was coming up on the other
+side. The engineer officer was going round and saw the
+regiment; upon which he galloped back to give information,
+but before he could reach Lord Wellington they
+were just close to the top of the hill, and Colonel Gordon,
+who was in the advance, saw some of the French videttes
+close. He gave the alarm, but they all had a gallop for
+it, pursued by some of the dragoons.</p>
+
+<p>Though the English horses were most of them well
+tired, they were soon out of reach of the French, and all
+escaped. Lord Wellington relies almost too confidently
+on the fleetness and excellence of his animals, when we
+consider what the loss would be if he were caught; he is,
+however, now rather more cautious.</p>
+
+<p>A few days since I heard an anecdote about the siege
+of Rodrigo, which shows the man. Scarcely any one
+knew what was to be done; the great preparations were
+all made in Almeida, and most supposed, as I believe the
+French did, that everything which arrived was for the
+purpose of defence there, not of attack elsewhere. On a
+sudden the army was in front of Rodrigo. A new
+advanced work was discovered, which had to be taken
+before any progress could be made in the siege. To save
+men and time, an instant attack was resolved upon.
+Scaling-ladders were necessary; the engineers were
+applied to; they had none with them, for they were
+quite ignorant of the plans—an inconvenience which has
+often arisen in different departments from Lord Wellington’s
+great secrecy, though the general result, assisted
+by his genius, has been so good. The scaling could
+not take place without ladders; Lord Wellington was
+informed of this. “Well,” says he, “you have brought
+up your ammunition and stores, never mind the waggons,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_403">[Pg 403]</span>
+cut them all up directly, they will make excellent ladders—there
+you see, each side piece is already cut.” This
+was done, and by the help of these novel ladders, the
+work was scaled forthwith.</p>
+
+<p>At Badajoz, he found so little to be had in the regular
+way for a siege, from want of transport, and so many
+difficulties in consequence from the regular bred artillery
+generals, that he became principal engineer himself,
+making use of Colonel Dickson, the acting man, as his
+instrument. These sieges procured Dickson his majority
+and lieutenant-colonelcy; and though only a Captain in
+the Royal Regiment of Artillery, he now conducts the
+whole of that department here, because he makes no
+difficulties.</p>
+
+<p>In one instance Lord Wellington is not like Frederick
+the Great. He is remarkably neat, and most particular
+in his dress, considering his situation. He is well made,
+knows it, and is willing to set off to the best what
+nature has bestowed. In short, like every great man
+present or past, almost without exception, he is vain.
+He cuts the skirts of his own coats shorter, to make
+them look smarter: and only a short time since, on
+going to him on business, I found him discussing the
+cut of his half-boots, and suggesting alterations to his
+servant. The vanity of great men shows itself in
+different ways, but in my opinion always exists in some
+shape or other.</p>
+
+<p><em>February 22nd, 5 o’clock.</em>—The flotilla has just got out
+of Sacoa Bay preparatory to the operations to-morrow.
+A beautiful sight! Six or seven ships of war, and fifty
+other vessels—everyone alive! Forty form the bridge.
+I hope it may succeed, but many doubt it.</p>
+
+<p>P.S. Lord Wellington is moving on the Gaves with
+seven divisions. The cable bridge is in the boats, and the
+engineers on board. The affair is to begin by driving in
+the picquets, when five hundred men are then to be sent<span class="pagenum" id="Page_404">[Pg 404]</span>
+over on the rafts, the guns of the French battery spiked,
+the French corvette burnt, and then the bridge is to be
+thrown across!</p>
+
+<p><em>February 24th, 1814.</em>—I rose at half-past four, to go
+over and see the crossing of the Adour yesterday, and
+the formation of the bridge. At daylight I discovered
+that the whole flotilla had been dispersed by the gale of
+the night before, and no part was near the mouth of the
+Adour. Several officers returned in consequence, declaring
+that nothing could be done. Thinking otherwise myself,
+and that this movement would somehow take place, being
+connected with Lord Wellington’s movement on our
+right on the Gaves, I went on, and found all the
+Spaniards on the road in front of Bayonne, but doing
+nothing. All was quiet for a very long time. About
+twelve o’clock, however, they were ordered to move on
+and make a feint, and an attack was made by our great
+guns and rockets at the same time, on the French armed
+corvette and gun-boats, to destroy the latter, and at the
+same time to draw off the attention of the French from
+the mouth of the river below Anglet, where we intended
+to cross on the rafts.</p>
+
+<p>The Spaniards were not much opposed, and went on
+boldly enough, as far as was intended, and had a few
+wounded. The sharp-shooting, however, was very slack.
+The fifth division at the same time, made a show on
+their side, between the Nive and the Adour, but not
+with any serious intention. I then went into an empty
+house with Dr. Macgregor and some others, to make a
+fire and get some breakfast, which they had brought
+with them; and adding our several stocks together, we
+fared very well. We then made our way through
+Anglet, and across the sands, and through a pine-wood,
+to the river’s mouth. A brigade of Guards, another of
+the King’s German Legion, the Light Battalion (most
+excellent men), and a Rocket Brigade, were there all<span class="pagenum" id="Page_405">[Pg 405]</span>
+ready to pass, but from the immense difficulties which
+had been met with in the transport of the boats and
+pontoons over land, only two of the light companies
+were over about one o’clock, when I arrived, and a temporary
+suspension of the passage of men had been ordered
+by General Hope.</p>
+
+<p>The order, however, had just come again to pass over
+as fast as possible, and before I left the spot (about three
+o’clock) three rafts, formed each upon three pontoons, and
+carrying each about fifty or fifty-five men, were at work
+ferrying across on a cable, and the six small boats were
+also plying, so that about five hundred men were then
+nearly over, and they were going at the rate of two
+hundred, or two hundred and fifty per hour. I left the
+rocket men, each with one rocket ready in his hand, and
+three on his back in a case, with three poles on his
+shoulder, just going to cross.</p>
+
+<p>Elphinstone had been quite in despair; the pontoon
+car sunk so much in the sand, that at last thirty horses
+would not move them, and for the last five hundred yards
+they were conveyed on the shoulders of the guardsmen;
+twenty-six men to a pontoon. At length all his difficulties
+were thus overcome, and the non-arrival of the
+bridge, of which we could see nothing, was not his fault,
+but that of the weather.</p>
+
+<p>I helped the engineering again a little, by joining the
+party who were endeavouring to find the best place to
+which to fix cables against high-water—as I discovered
+the last tide-mark in the sands, and thus found a landing-place
+and post, clearly above high-water mark; for the
+springs were past, and of course every succeeding tide
+would rise to a less height. We then proceeded along
+the river towards our battery on the bank, which was
+firing at the corvette, &amp;c. When we had gone a little
+way through the pine-wood, we found all the roads
+almost stopped by trees cut down by the French, and the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_406">[Pg 406]</span>
+road we took near the bank, which was clear, carried us
+opposite a smaller French corvette and three gun-boats,
+which had just placed themselves in the river. At first
+we thought them a part of our intended bridge, but soon
+found it otherwise, and that we should be fired at, for
+our small party on the other side the river had not
+advanced, and all the opposite bank and village, as well
+as the boats, were still in possession of the French. We
+therefore turned, and at last made our way through to
+the battery. There we learnt that the guns and rockets
+had sunk one gun-boat, and frightened away the rest
+and the corvette, which had all been hauled up close to
+the bridge under Bayonne, where we saw them.</p>
+
+<p>I could not understand that the rockets had done
+more than cause some alarm, though twelve had been
+fired at once at the shipping, and from no great distance.
+Only one, or at most two, had fairly struck, and nothing
+had been burnt. The heavy guns had struck the corvette,
+but could not do much damage before she was off, and
+just at first the corvette and battery on the French side
+seem to have had the best of it. Count Damas, who
+was there with the Duke d’Angoulême, looking on, told
+me that the artillery had knocked off the colours of the
+corvette whilst he was there, and that one of the light
+Germans had jumped into the water, had fetched out the
+colours, and had presented them to the commanding
+artillery officer. Others say that these colours were on
+the gun-boat. The French were so alarmed at the
+rockets, that the vessel, when struck, was abandoned.</p>
+
+<p>Close to our guns we found the other brigade of
+Guards, &amp;c., making an immense fire with the fir-trees,
+which had been cut down on all sides, for the day,
+though fine, was very cold. Dr. Macgregor, one or two
+others, as well as myself, went up a little sand-hill near,
+just to look round, when a twenty-four pound shot from
+Bayonne came close to us point blank. The horses<span class="pagenum" id="Page_407">[Pg 407]</span>
+turned right round, and the Doctor losing his hat, I
+thought at first that he had been struck. Of course we
+soon beat a retreat, and found we were in a spot where
+this was the usual reception, and a position of which the
+French were jealous.</p>
+
+<p>Just as I came away, a little before five, I saw a
+column of French, apparently about seven hundred,
+going very quickly through the wood on the opposite
+bank from the citadel towards our men, who had passed
+to attack them. I knew that we had nearly a battalion
+across, about seven hundred men, and did not feel much
+alarm with regard to the event. I pitied the men more
+for the cold night they were likely to pass on the bare
+sands, without baggage, &amp;c. This morning I have heard
+an attack was made just afterwards, but that some of the
+rocket skirmishers were put in advance with the other
+skirmishers on our side, and the French were so alarmed
+that, though much superior, they would not advance,
+and our men beat them off.</p>
+
+<p>The flotilla was this morning collected near the mouth
+of the Adour, and, I suppose, before this the bridge is
+begun. At any rate we could have passed across as
+many men as we wished before this. No one has
+returned to-day to this moment, and as I had business,
+and one of my horses was a little sore in the back, I
+staid at home. My grey pony started before six yesterday
+morning, and I was not at home till past seven at
+night, having ridden above thirty miles.</p>
+
+<p>Some of the Spanish regiments were very fine men,
+and well equipped in every respect, much better than
+some of our poor fellows; but the officers looked very
+bad indeed; and when the men advanced, they were
+led on by their officers with cloaks on, folded over their
+mouths, looking as miserable as possible.</p>
+
+<p>The men also, like the French, always march with
+their great coats on over everything, so that our good<span class="pagenum" id="Page_408">[Pg 408]</span>
+new clothes were all concealed by their own old threadbare
+overcoats. On the other hand, none of our men
+had their coats on, cold as it was, and everyone was
+alive and in activity. I stood next to Don Carlos
+d’Espagne, and heard him receive his directions and
+information as to what parts we occupied and what the
+French, &amp;c. General Hope (though not well, and too
+soon, I believe) came on to take the command, of which
+the division were very glad.</p>
+
+<p>I fear the Spaniards, though better than they were,
+and though only the best were in advance, will soon
+begin to do mischief. As I returned here I saw all
+their stragglers about the houses near the road, and
+telling every one that in Spain <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">Francesi roban e rompen
+todos todos</i>. They soon soil our new clothing, and go
+about with dirty and scowling discontented faces, like
+some of our good countrymen in Ireland. The industry
+of the French on the sand-banks had been very great in
+the cultivation of the vine. The south-east side of the
+very bank on which the sea beat on the north-west, a
+pure white sand, was divided with square reed enclosures,
+and covered with vines. The Anglet wine (which, as a
+very light wine, is in repute), I believe, is there produced.
+Many of the inhabitants at Anglet and the
+neighbourhood, remained, and, in general, seemed glad
+the movement was over. One old woman, in a house
+that was near the river’s mouth, said she was most
+happy to see us, as she had been for the last two months
+in complete misery, not being allowed to speak to any
+strangers by the French, nor even allowed to go to
+Bayonne to buy a few sous-worth of snuff. I suppose
+they feared the spread of information, for this was close
+to the spot intended for our bridge, of which I understand,
+and have no doubt, they had a very clear knowledge.
+Two persons of the better class have come in
+here by sea from Bordeaux, round by Passages, to pay<span class="pagenum" id="Page_409">[Pg 409]</span>
+their respects, and give information to <em>son Altesse Royale</em>.
+Colonel La Fitte told me that they were as anxious there
+for Lord Wellington as the Jews were for the Messiah,
+so sanguine are the emigrés.</p>
+
+<p><em>February 26th.</em>—All accounts now agree that the
+French have from ten thousand to above eleven thousand
+in the town and citadel, three thousand in the latter,
+the rest in the town and lines. Another show was made
+against our people the morning after they crossed, but no
+attack. Considering that the French had eleven thousand
+men, that it was eight or nine hours before we had
+above five or six hundred men across, this passage of the
+Adour and our establishment on the right bank is most
+disgraceful to their troops, or to their General, and proportionally
+creditable to ours. In the evening of the
+24th our flotilla crossed the bar and got into the Adour
+over a most tremendous surf. Several accidents ensued
+in consequence, and many lives were lost; some say as
+many as forty in the whole, of all nations. I believe
+about fifteen English sailors were lost. None but the
+English sailors would have dared to enter at such a time.
+Five boats were upset, most of them very near it, and one
+brig, with stores, aground, as well as one small ship of
+war, a gun-vessel I believe. Some of the flotilla never
+got in at all. The place fixed for the bridge was not so
+wide as was expected and prepared for, so sufficient boats
+are ready, and last night all but about three were moored
+in their berths ready, and, in my opinion, the bridge
+would be passable to-day.</p>
+
+<p>The loss of the French in the gun-boats and corvettes
+was greater than we supposed, for the inhabitants inform
+us that a Captain of cannoniers was killed, and several men,
+and the Captain of the corvette lost his arm. The
+rockets also did mischief on shore: one man who is now
+in here, had both legs carried off by a rocket. I have
+been since told, the French lay down on their faces, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_410">[Pg 410]</span>
+then ran away from them. An order has been issued in
+Bayonne for all persons who have not and cannot procure
+six months’ provisions to quit the town, and numbers
+were coming this way along the road yesterday. I went
+out that way on purpose to meet them, and talk to them.
+They all agreed in the number of men, about eleven
+thousand, but said that a great part were conscripts and
+weakly.</p>
+
+<p>This I concluded to be the case, as all those unequal
+to an active campaign would be naturally left in the walls
+for quiet garrison duty. The alarm had been terrible
+in the town, where an attack was expected two days
+since. Every householder was ordered to have an
+immense tub filled with water, ready at his door, &amp;c.
+Count Reille has gone to the rear, some said ill, and
+Thouvenot commanded again, and most said that Marshal
+Soult was gone to Paris, some to Mount Marsan, and
+that Count Gazan commanded. A Frenchman, who
+came yesterday, told Monsieur d’Arcangues, an inhabitant
+here, that he had just passed through La Vendée, and
+that that country was in arms again; that he had himself
+seen several armed parties, amounting some of them to
+seven or eight hundred men. This will at least stop the
+conscription a little.</p>
+
+<p>I communicated this good news to <em>son Altesse Royale</em>,
+and at the same time made him a little <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">cadeau</i>, by
+begging that he would permit me to send him King
+Joseph’s saddle-cloth, which I had picked up at Vittoria,
+but had never used, as being rather too splendid (blue
+with a very broad gold border). He was very civil, and
+in return lent me a paper of the 11th, which he had
+just got out with his baggage from England, a second
+edition of the <cite>Courier</cite>, containing in the corner a notice
+of the arrival of the message through France from Lord
+Castlereagh, a piece of news which alarmed him not a
+little, though our French accounts still say that the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_411">[Pg 411]</span>
+negotiations are broken off, and the Allies close to
+Paris.</p>
+
+<p>General Harispe had raised about three thousand or
+three thousand eight hundred of his countrymen, the
+Basques, a fine race of people, but since our late move
+most of them have run home, and his corps, the maire
+here told me yesterday, is reduced to about five hundred.
+Our officers remain delighted with their reception on the
+right. They all say that every one talks with horror of
+making war in an enemy’s country; but they can declare
+from experience that they never wish again to make war
+in a friendly one, if this is to be the manner of making
+war in an enemy’s. Nothing has been done on the
+right of any consequence yet, merely preparations in
+case this bridge had failed; if so, I think we should
+now have Lord Wellington back here directly from
+Garris, where he has been, and the move will at last take
+place.</p>
+
+<p>I have just got my mules back from Passages, with
+six days’ hay, and am now ready, though my Guardsman
+tailor has carried half my new clothes with him across
+the Adour, and I never expect to see them more, and
+have a Frenchman at work. Considering your lost box
+and all contingencies, my last suit will probably stand
+me in about 35<em>l.</em> sterling!</p>
+
+<p>The ride along the high road to Bayonne yesterday
+was interesting. The refugees from the town, several
+of them very pretty Basques, were all coming this way,
+laden with the little baggage they could carry off; our
+artillery all moving up the contrary way; as well as the
+Spanish troops; and hundreds of Basques, men and
+women, with great loads on their heads (like our Welsh
+fruit-women going to Covent-Garden), only their baskets
+were full of bread, biscuits, &amp;c., and all in requisition for
+the Spaniards. The bât animals and baggage parties of
+the Spaniards are not a little amusing, and their led<span class="pagenum" id="Page_412">[Pg 412]</span>
+chargers with their tails buckled up, and in swaddling
+clothes, with dirty magnificent housings, dancing about
+half-starved, with their heads in the air. Every fifty
+yards a dead bullock or horse, but chiefly the former,
+and every two hundred, an ox dying, and a Spanish
+muleteer or straggler waiting until the bullock driver
+abandoned him, to turn him up, and cut his heart out,
+before he was dead, but when in a state too weak to
+resist. The heart alone seemed to be worth the trouble,
+as nothing else could be cut off from the bones, and bone
+and all did not pay the cutting up and carriage.</p>
+
+<p>The destruction and present price of cattle are tremendous,
+and I hear we have been obliged to give the
+Spaniards some of our best Irish cattle, as we had no
+other at hand. The only meat they seemed to have
+with them was a number of ox cars with sides of Spanish
+bacon; this, and sardines, seemed to form their supply.
+The men, however, are very fine men, and in my opinion,
+were they well commanded, would make excellent troops.
+Nevertheless, I was by no means sorry to find that we
+had still an English brigade of about twelve or fifteen
+hundred men (Lord Aylmer’s) between us and the eleven
+thousand French at Bayonne, for I am sure five thousand
+French would force their way through the fifteen thousand
+Spaniards if they chose to try, though we should
+in the end prevent their return. At any rate we should
+have early notice, and alarm from the runaways. The
+French beat our men at that, for we cannot catch them,
+and the Spaniards would not be easily caught by the
+French.</p>
+
+<p>We had a most anxious scene here two nights since.
+Just as our vessels got into the Adour, a suttling brig,
+Dutch-built, and very strong, to save pilotage fees, tried
+to get into this river without the pilot boats. The boats
+towing missed the mouth, were both swamped, and the
+men in most imminent danger, as well as the vessel,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_413">[Pg 413]</span>
+which was driven in without guidance, aground for an
+hour, but saved, and at last all lives were saved, or at
+least all but one. When the boat was filled, another
+wave drove it against the ship, and three caught hold of
+the ship-chains and got in; the fourth was knocked
+about in the water between the ship, the boat, and the
+wall, but at last got his chin on the sinking boat, came
+up the harbour so, was hauled in and saved. In my
+morning walk on the sea wall, I found another ship on
+shore, a large brig with a valuable cargo, a private speculation.
+This will be the third wreck, but considering
+how many vessels have been here, and how they have
+been all exposed, and half of them absolutely at the
+mercy of any north or north-west squalls, we have been
+most fortunate.</p>
+
+<p><em>Later.</em>—In my ride to-day I met about thirty or forty
+wounded men of the Buffs and 39th, second division;
+but this is the consequence of the last move, I believe, as
+they told me they were wounded at or near Cambo. We
+have reports of an affair, but here nothing is yet known.
+We are becoming, instead of being like head-quarters,
+the centre of all good information, a mere hospital station
+in the rear, and famous as usual for ill-founded reports,
+which the medical men probably invent from <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">ennui</i> on
+these occasions. A large brig has arrived from Bordeaux
+with wine, but, in my opinion, almost too late for the
+speculation.</p>
+
+<p><em>Sunday, 27th February, Post-day.</em>—In my walk this
+morning I saw another boat swamped, trying to get out
+of the river over the bar. It was actually worked by
+the surf into this position, with the stern stuck into the
+sand of the bar, and fairly went over, with the five men.
+For some time all five were visible, two swimming, and
+three clinging to the keel of the wreck, which was
+bottom uppermost. Another boat, which had intended
+to follow this one out, was fortunately close at hand, just<span class="pagenum" id="Page_414">[Pg 414]</span>
+out of the reach of the surf, and by this means the two
+swimmers were saved by giving them a rope’s end,
+and also one of the three from the wreck, as it floated
+inwards. There was a struggle between the three, when
+a wave came, and two appeared no more. The relations
+of the two men witnessed their loss, as well as myself,
+for we were standing on the edge of the wall within ten
+yards of the men, but unable to help them. The distress
+you may conceive. We become in some degree hardened
+by seeing death so continually, and in so many
+forms, as we do here.</p>
+
+<p>I have also this morning met with five English seamen,
+part of the crew of one of our provision ships, which
+were lost some months since on this coast. The master
+and four men, being from St. Andero, and the French
+having heard of the fever there at that time, they were
+put under quarantine on the coast, about forty miles on
+the other side of Bayonne. Afterwards they escaped,
+and lived among the inhabitants, who, they say, treated
+them well, as the master had money. At last, hearing
+from the French that we had crossed the Adour, they
+made through the woods this way, and fell in with our
+cavalry about three leagues on the other side of Bayonne,
+General Vandeleur being on that side of the Adour, with
+two regiments. They mention that they saw on the
+road going to Dax a number of the wounded French from
+Bayonne, and also troops retiring that way, they were
+told, to the amount of fifteen thousand, but the number
+must have been considerably exaggerated.</p>
+
+<p>The servant of Captain Pitts, of the Engineers, came
+in yesterday with an account of his master’s death.
+Captain Pitts was one of General Cole’s staff, and a most
+spirited, zealous, skilful, and promising young man. He
+was killed on the right a few days since, when our men
+had driven the French over the Gave d’Oleron. He
+went down to reconnoitre, and take a sketch of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_415">[Pg 415]</span>
+banks, and make observations with a view to the formation
+of a bridge. His servant says that he had finished,
+and was looking round just before he came off, when a
+ball struck him on the head. General Cole’s staff have
+been very unfortunate this last year, and indeed the loss
+of officers in his whole division has been very considerable.
+I used to think that it sometimes affected
+his spirits, though it never induced him to endeavour to
+diminish it, for he always was and would be foremost in
+danger.</p>
+
+<p>Count Damas has just informed me, that Lord Wellington
+has now crossed both the Gaves, and is near
+Orthes; but we have no authentic news from him. All
+accounts agree that General Picton was wounded in the
+affair on crossing the Gave; but, it is said, not badly.</p>
+
+<p>I picked up this morning a Spanish paper, and on
+making it out, found that it was a letter from a Spanish
+officer in camp, near Bayonne, telling some friend in the
+rear that Murillo and Mina had beat the French across
+the Gave, and were in pursuit along with two English
+divisions, having taken forty guns, &amp;c., and adding that
+the inhabitants were <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">muy malos</i>, but that we treated
+them as well as Spaniards, and that they, the Spaniards,
+were ordered to do the same, but that we should see, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, St. Jean de Luz, February 28th, 1814.</em>—Lieut.-Colonel
+C—— has now returned here, and we
+have at length some authentic accounts of what has
+passed. Lord Wellington was at Orthes, where he left
+him, intending to stay there a short time to arrange communications
+with General Hope’s column, &amp;c. Our men
+forded the Gave de Pau, and drove the enemy from Orthes.
+As they made some stand in that town, it was a little
+<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">rompé’d</i>, as we call it. General Picton was not wounded,
+and our loss has been inconsiderable upon the whole.
+Colonel C—— returned by my old road through Peyrehorade,
+Ramons, and across the Adour, at Port de Lanne,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_416">[Pg 416]</span>
+and so to Bayonne, and then across the new bridge here.
+He found the first division driving the French from the
+heights above the citadel of Bayonne, close into the town
+last night. This was done, but with some loss and much
+firing. Those hills are important, for in some measure
+they command the citadel. To-morrow we march to join
+head-quarters. I believe we shall not pass the new bridge,
+as a Spanish army crosses that way, and will occupy it
+all day, and the road also; in addition to which, we have
+hitherto only cavalry patroles along that road, and the
+French have halted a force at Dax, or Acts, or Ax (in
+the different maps). I understand that we are to go by
+Ustaritz, Hasparren, Garris, Sauveterre, and Orthes.
+This is a roundabout bad road, but will be a new country
+to me. The weather most luckily continues fine hitherto.</p>
+
+<p>Our accounts from the interior are, that Toulouse and
+Bordeaux are both ready to hoist the white flag, and only
+wait for our sanction and declaration. This point of
+etiquette may spoil all. I think we should declare our
+readiness to support them the moment they declare publicly
+their readiness to take that part. This is a critical
+moment. Many are alarmed at Schwartzenburg’s not
+having made more progress; he seems to have hung
+back, for his army was stronger than Blucher’s, and was
+forwarded six weeks since, and yet we only hear of Blucher
+being near Paris. I must now prepare to “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">romper de
+march</i>” as Jack Portugoose calls it. So adieu.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_417">[Pg 417]</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXIII">CHAPTER XXIII.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="fs80" style="margin-left: 2em; text-indent: -2em;">Passage of the River—Start for Orthes—Effect of the Battle—Feelings of
+the French—Wellington wounded—St. Sever—Church and School—Aire—Wellington
+on the Conduct of the Allies—Indurating effects of
+War.</p>
+
+<p class="right fs80">
+Head-quarters, St. Sever,<br>
+<span style="padding-right: 2em">March 5th, 1814.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="no-indent"><span class="smcap">My dear M——</span>,
+</p>
+
+<p><span style="padding-left: 2em">Here</span> I am with head-quarters, and within two
+leagues of my old quarter, Mont de Marsan. We have
+had a most unpleasant, and, for the baggage animals, a
+most laborious journey, from the terrible state of the
+weather—hail-storms, rain-storms, with violent south-westerly
+winds almost all the time. By warm clothing
+and good living I have escaped with only one day’s return
+of rheumatism, which has now gone off, and I feel in very
+tolerable repair.</p>
+
+<p>On the 1st of March we left St. Jean de Luz, and
+passed the grand bridge below Bayonne, in sight of, and
+I really believe within gunshot of the walls. We all
+filed over in safety, and then along the sea-wall for half
+a mile, with water on both sides, to Boucaut. I was
+surprised that the animals were not more alarmed.</p>
+
+<p>The bridge answered perfectly; it consisted of thirty-six
+two-masted vessels, with anchors across all the way
+at the head and stern of each; a strong beam across the
+centre of each, between the masts, to which the cables
+were fastened, to form the road, so that each formed a
+separate bridge, and the destruction of one cable only<span class="pagenum" id="Page_418">[Pg 418]</span>
+affected one space. The boards were then fixed on these
+cables, and were interlaced all the way by small cords,
+through notches in the boards; and thus we went safely
+along between the masts, in a road about twelve or
+fourteen feet wide, differing, however, from a common
+bridge, for the arches between the boats (from the
+stretching of the cables) formed concaves instead of
+convex arches, some of them descending nearly to the
+water’s edge. It answered, however, perfectly, and will
+continue to do so, unless the Spaniards suffer the Trench
+to come and destroy it. Of this I have my doubts. The
+crews were living in their vessels at the head and stern,
+cooking away and going on as usual. Five or six gun-boats
+were moored about it, then came the boom and
+boats ready to tow ashore any fireship.</p>
+
+<p>At Boucaut we found Sir John Hope and his staff, so
+we were ordered to the next village on the road. Our
+managing Quarter-Master clumsily went to a bad village
+of a dozen houses, out of the road, when there was a very
+good one on the right road, only a few miles further on.
+Several of us had no houses, and were told we must find
+them for ourselves. After waiting for some time until
+my baggage came, I determined to go on the right road
+until I found a quarter vacant, trusting with full confidence
+to the good disposition of the inhabitants, which
+is most excellent towards the English. After looking
+into five, I found a vacant one a mile and a-half off, no
+officer within half a mile, and no English troops within
+two miles, and none at all towards the interior of France
+on that road. The people expected some one, and a bed
+was ready, and a hearty welcome I received.</p>
+
+<p>In my way I went round by the picquet, within about
+eight hundred yards of Bayonne citadel, where my tailor
+was on fatigue-duty in the works, and I thus recovered
+my clothes. As I was just going to bed at eight o’clock,
+a violent cannonading and sharp musketry commenced<span class="pagenum" id="Page_419">[Pg 419]</span>
+sounding close by us. I did not think it prudent to go
+to bed until it ceased, for we were within about a mile
+and a-half of a garrison of eleven thousand men; but
+suspecting what was the case, that it was only our people
+driving the French out of a field-work on the hill, and
+hemming them in closer to the citadel, I was little
+alarmed.</p>
+
+<p>My host and his family were great royalists in their
+professions, as they had for the last six months been more
+than usually oppressed by the French. He had a house
+and ten acres of land; the house probably worth about
+10<em>l.</em> a-year in England. The rent of his land was one-half
+the produce of corn and maize; the taxes on his
+house had been already that year sixty francs, and his
+contributions fifteen bushels of maize and, I think, ten of
+corn. He said that no one could live if this continued,
+and that all the young men were carried off. He had
+one quarter to pay still, but expecting us every day, he
+put it off from time to time, though much threatened,
+and now thought himself safe.</p>
+
+<p>From thence we started early for Peyrehorade, rather
+a large place, nearly as large as Kingston-upon-Thames.
+It was a market-day, and the people of the country
+crowded in as usual. They all stared at us, most saluted
+us; all were civil, and we got our quarters with much
+more facility, and met with ten times the civility we had
+ever done in Spain. I never witnessed a single quarrel,
+though the town was crowded as it is during an election
+with you, and we had only about twenty dragoons to
+protect all the twelve hundred animals and baggage of
+head-quarters.</p>
+
+<p>My host was particularly civil, and gave me a very
+good apartment and an excellent dinner—some roast beef
+<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">à l’Anglaise</i>, a duck, and a fowl. The whole family dined
+with us, wife, mother, and two daughters. The eldest<span class="pagenum" id="Page_420">[Pg 420]</span>
+son, who had been intended for an attorney, had been
+taken as a conscript, and was wounded at Leipsic—since
+that time they had not heard of him. I comforted them
+by suggesting that he must have been left at Mayence.
+The next son was sixteen, and at school at St. Sever;
+next year it became his turn to take his chance as a conscript.
+You may well conceive that we were considered
+as welcome guests; independently of the expectation of
+having coffee and sugar cheap for grandmamma, and
+English linens, muslins, &amp;c., for the two ugly misses.</p>
+
+<p>On the 3rd of March we started again for Orthes, the
+scene of the famous battle, of which you will have heard
+before you receive this letter, and of which we received
+several imperfect accounts as we went along. The reception
+all along the road, and at Orthes, was the same as at
+Peyrehorade. Dr. M—— and Major G—— just stopped
+in the stable of a château for shelter, when the owner
+came out and took them in, and gave them cold turkey
+and champaign. At Orthes I got an excellent quarter
+at the house of the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Juge de Paix</i>, who was very hospitable
+as usual; and as the weather was so excessively bad,
+and my Portuguese almost dead with their walk of twenty
+miles in the rain and mud, I stopped the night there, notwithstanding
+the head-quarters were regularly eight miles
+further at Soult. I knew the latter was a miserable place,
+which was another inducement with me to remain.</p>
+
+<p>At Orthes I found about two thousand wounded, one
+thousand English, and the others French and Portuguese;
+the latter had behaved well, as usual. I found the Adjutant-general,
+Pakenham, confined to his bed, ill at the
+inn, but, at nine at night, and this morning, very much
+better. The hospitals are all established, and in full
+activity. Lord March was shot in the chest, but the
+surgeon hoped he would do well, and thought so; he
+could not, however, find the ball, but had reason to think<span class="pagenum" id="Page_421">[Pg 421]</span>
+it had not passed the lungs. Colonel Brook’s brother
+(a schoolfellow of George’s) was shot through the lungs,
+and there is little hope of him.</p>
+
+<p>The affair at Orthes was quite unexpected; as they
+had suffered our army to pass all the rivers, no one expected
+this desperate stand, for such I am told it was,
+the French having seldom fought better. They stood
+some time after they had ceased to fire, and it is therefore
+concluded that they had had no ammunition left;
+and even after our cavalry (who behaved well) was in the
+midst of them cutting away. At last they gave way,
+and then fled quickly. Their loss no one knows, as the
+wounded got off to the villages round; but all say that
+their army is actually reduced above eight thousand men,
+as the conscripts are all running home as fast as they can.
+Above twenty had come back to Peyrehorade; and one
+gentleman-like young man I met at my quarter there was
+a convalescent conscript, and such he said he should now
+always remain, unless affairs took another turn again.</p>
+
+<p>Our state here is most curious; all riding about
+singly, entering any house we please, and well received
+everywhere, the baggage straggling all over the country;
+every one declaring that one man had caused all their
+misery for the last three years. The Bourbons are almost
+forgotten; and few, even of the better sort of people,
+know who the Duke d’Angoulême is. All want peace,
+and, therefore, wish him well. The French people are
+just now humbled to a most astonishing degree—I could
+scarcely have believed it possible.</p>
+
+<p>I went about talking to the people, and explaining a
+little who our “royal tiger” is, and why he came as he
+did. At Flagenan I found the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">maire</i> and townspeople
+waiting to pay their respects to him in form. This was
+bolder than at most places; and I was sorry to mortify
+them by telling them he had already passed. At Peyrehorade,
+when the French army went by, every place<span class="pagenum" id="Page_422">[Pg 422]</span>
+was shut up; when we came, every place and all the
+shops were opened.</p>
+
+<p>Their horror of the Spaniards is, however, very great.
+Still the people would take no active part; they remained
+quiet, hoping for peace. At Orthes Marshal Soult ordered
+the inhabitants to arm and assist; and the action
+was so close, on a formidable position on the hills above
+the town, that several balls fell into the houses; but
+instead, the inhabitants all shut themselves up, and there
+waited the event. He vowed vengeance, and declared
+that the town should be pillaged in consequence. Of
+course they wished us success, as you may well conceive.</p>
+
+<p>In many places the French have done much injury to
+the inhabitants as they went off, burning mills, bridges,
+forage, and the suburbs of Navarens, on military accounts,
+but plundering also very considerably on private
+accounts. The people now fear that we are too weak,
+and begin to tremble.</p>
+
+<p>It is a trying time for them. The schoolmaster here
+has rubbed out his <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Collége Impériale</i>. This may be his
+ruin if matters change again. At Mont de Marsan, as I
+expected, we have found immense stores. This place,
+St. Sever, is larger than Orthes or Peyrehorade, and is
+said to have had much <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">émigré</i> and <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">ancienne noblesse</i>.
+The reception, however, as to quarters, has not been
+quite so good as hitherto, more from alarm, probably
+than anything else.</p>
+
+<p>Lord Wellington and General Alava were close together
+when struck, and both on the hip, but on different
+sides, and neither seriously injured, as the surgeon told
+me who dressed them. Lord Wellington’s was a bad
+bruise, and the skin was broken. I fear that his riding
+so much since has made it rather of more consequence;
+but hope the two days’ halt here will put him in the
+right way again, as all our prospects here would vanish
+with that man.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_423">[Pg 423]</span></p>
+
+<p>From this vicinity the French took the road to
+Toulouse, and, you will observe, made another stand
+near Aire. The Portuguese, I am sorry to say, ran at
+that place; and we were at first repulsed, but General
+Barnes’s brigade came up, and set all to rights, by
+driving the French on again, and taking some prisoners.
+Our way here has been in some degree difficult and
+dangerous, from the flooded rivers and broken-down
+bridges, which have been hitherto only slightly repaired,
+so as to be just passable. At the Adour, it is reported
+that we have here actually been delayed two days. At
+Port de Lanne, we passed it on two large rafts, and
+two ferry-boats, with some risk: my boat was nearly
+over, from two spirited horses being on board; and
+my little mule, with his panniers on, jumped into
+the water. This put my linen and sugar, &amp;c., in a
+pretty mess, as you may suppose, and drowned the
+live fowls on his back. At Peyrehorade I also lost
+a mule, and was obliged, consequently, to overload the
+rest.</p>
+
+<p>At this place I last night recovered my mule, and
+lost nothing on the road, except the drowned fowls,
+which can now be replaced here. The history of all
+the mishaps on a march is curious. I dined at the
+ferry-house, and did not go away till all my own nine
+animals were clear over. Some persons have never
+heard of their baggage since, and are now here without
+it: it will turn up soon, no doubt, at least in great
+part.</p>
+
+<p>My old host at Mont de Marsan has sent to inquire
+after me. One feels now quite strange in an enemy’s
+country, meeting deserters around on the road, gens-d’armes,
+the same conscripts going home, and a stout
+peasantry with great Irish bludgeons, all very civil
+and friendly; and Lord Wellington, by proclamation,
+ordering the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">maires</i> to form an armed police, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_424">[Pg 424]</span>
+protect their own districts themselves from stragglers,
+muleteers, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>I always expected that Soult would retire towards
+Toulouse, to fall back on Suchet, and either hang on
+our flank, if we should go on to Bordeaux, or draw us
+from the sea and our supplies if we follow him up. We
+can push on to Bordeaux and the river, in my opinion,
+and then sweep on before us towards Toulouse. Time
+will show Lord Wellington’s plans, which no one can do
+more than guess at. In the end I was right as to his
+crossing the Gaves in force.</p>
+
+<p>I have just met with the Baron de Barthe. He tells
+me that all prospers with the royal cause, and that the
+French provinces of Poitou, Guienne, Brittany, &amp;c.,
+are all in open insurrection, and the white flag flying.
+P——’s account of the state of France on his side coincides,
+as you must observe, almost precisely with mine,
+as far as I have yet seen. The people are all at market
+here to-day, just as if nothing were the matter, and we
+were not here. Hitherto there is only hatred in many
+of the lower classes and a few of the higher to Bonaparte;
+but no effort for the Bourbons, and much alarm in the
+purchasers of national property. The <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">ancienne noblesse</i>
+is beginning to talk and to stir a little, and the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">nouveaux
+riches</i> are by some laughed at. Public opinion begins
+to dare to vent itself, and the minds of the people at
+large are, I think, veering fast. Many think us too
+weak at present. It is said that we move to-morrow
+to Aire, on the Toulouse road; but nothing is fixed. I
+went to inquire after Lord Wellington to-day; he was
+busy writing, and said he was better, and looked well
+enough. The Duke d’Angoulême has sent to Mont de
+Marsan as his agent a <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">professeur</i>, who was despised there,
+and this has given offence. The truth is that he does
+not know where as yet to find men of weight and talent.</p>
+
+<p><em>St. Sever, March 6th, 1814.</em>—The mail is to be dispatched<span class="pagenum" id="Page_425">[Pg 425]</span>
+to-day, so I add a few lines, as we halt here
+again to-day, and probably to-morrow, owing to the
+flooded state of the river, and the enemy having destroyed
+the bridges in their retreat to Auch, where we are told
+they now are. Marshal Soult, it is said, finding that the
+Italians also are now beginning to desert since Murat’s
+new alliances, has ordered all Italian soldiers to be disarmed.
+Another story current, but not so much to be
+relied on, is, that Bonaparte has been badly wounded,
+and desired General Macdonald to put him out of his
+misery; and that the latter took him at his word, and
+shot him.</p>
+
+<p>The Duke d’Angoulême was at high mass again to-day,
+at which some hundreds of the new levy attended, my
+hosts tell me, known by their short cropped heads. Our
+situation here is so different from what it was in Spain,
+that it is quite droll. I have a general invitation from
+my host whilst I stay. To-day I go to Lord Wellington’s.</p>
+
+<p><em>Later on the 7th.</em>—We stay to-day, as the bridges are
+not repaired and the floods have not quite subsided. I
+walked down to the bridge with Lord Wellington yesterday,
+and observed him limp a little, and he said he
+was in rather more pain than usual, but that it was
+nothing. At dinner yesterday, he said he was laughing
+at General Alava having had a knock, and telling him
+it was all nonsense, and that he was not hurt, when he
+received this blow, and a worse one, in the same place
+himself. Alava said it was to punish him for laughing
+at him. At dinner we had the new Swedish tiger, the
+Prince’s aide-de-camp, who had been here a few days,
+covered with gold. His pantaloons are most <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">magnifique</i>.
+He seemed a good-tempered man, but I did not think
+very much of him.</p>
+
+<p>Two of the Bordeaux people were also there, who are
+to return to-day, and General Frere’s aide-de-camp from<span class="pagenum" id="Page_426">[Pg 426]</span>
+Peyrehorade, as he is marching up that way by Orthes.
+The people in office at Pau sent to say that they were
+ready to declare for the King, and Count Damas boldly
+enough went over there to see the state of things. He
+has come back safe, and reports them ready, but that
+they cannot take any public step until we are in force
+there. Amongst other opinions and feelings here, we,
+the English, have our partisans. Many say they should
+like an English Government, and Lord Wellington told
+me, laughing, he believed we had almost as many friends
+and partisans as the Bourbons. Peace certainly is by
+far the most popular project of all. I am excessively
+hurried with business to-day, and must prepare to see
+Lord Wellington.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Aire, March 11th, 1814.</em>—By a sudden
+order we moved from St. Sever to this place yesterday,
+so far on our road to Toulouse, and the scene of the battle
+a few days since, when the Algarve brigade (all Portuguese)
+took to their heels, and the English brigade of
+General Barnes behaved so well.</p>
+
+<p>We are now playing a bolder game than usual. The
+French, as I suspected, took the Toulouse road from St.
+Sever, and have a column in our front on the road to
+Auch, I believe, and another near or towards Tarbes.
+This leaves Bordeaux open. To take advantage of this,
+we have also divided two divisions under Marshal Beresford;
+the seventh and the fourth are gone to Bordeaux,
+and must be by this time close to the town, which is
+said to be ripe to join us, and declare for the King, The
+Duke d’Angoulême is gone that way.</p>
+
+<p>In front here we have Sir Rowland Hill’s corps, the
+second and sixth divisions, and also the third and light
+divisions; and General Frere’s Spanish army of twelve
+thousand men, to be fed by us, is on its road up, and
+to be, it is understood, at St. Sever to-day; and to support
+this main movement against Soult, who is said to be<span class="pagenum" id="Page_427">[Pg 427]</span>
+near Auch. In the meantime, General Hope remains
+with the first division, including all the Guards and
+German Legion (the choice men and in high order, and
+undiminished by service nearly), together with the fifth
+division and General Don Carlos d’Espagne’s Spanish
+brigade, and, it is believed, also Lord Aylmer’s British
+one, to blockade and take Bayonne. It is most unfortunate
+that so large a force should be required for
+that object; but we dare not trust, I conclude, the
+bridge and our communications to the Spaniards’ keeping.</p>
+
+<p>Great preparations are making against Bayonne, and
+the garrison have been driven in very close to the citadel;
+but no steps have been hitherto taken for the actual siege
+by regular approaches or batteries. Our army is thus
+very much divided just now, and the communications
+would be difficult, except that the country is with us.
+All the French posting establishment has remained, and
+nearly everything goes on as usual. The people quietly
+suffer us to take our own measures, and offer no opposition,
+though not openly declaring or helping us. It
+is remarkable that we go about as if in England, and
+yet no mischief has been done either to officers, men, or
+baggage. If the country people had been like the
+Spaniards, and against us, what we are now doing would
+have been out of the question. Half our army, by straggling
+about, would have been knocked on the head. We
+have, fortunately, just now plenty of money, and pay
+for everything; and the English are in the highest
+repute.</p>
+
+<p>In general, also, we have behaved well. There are,
+however, many instances to the contrary; and many
+more, I am sorry to say, amongst the Portuguese. When
+the Spaniards come, I am afraid things will be much
+worse. The mischief done by, and injury arising from,
+the passing through a country of the very best disciplined<span class="pagenum" id="Page_428">[Pg 428]</span>
+army is considerable. The people feel that, and are
+ready in general to submit to much, especially as the
+French army has been so much worse than ours, and
+does not pay for anything, whilst, on the other hand, we
+enable many to make almost little fortunes against quiet
+times; and Lord Wellington begins upon a plan, which
+I hope he will have funds to continue, of paying for all
+damage done when fairly stated. Some most exaggerated
+and unreasonable demands have been made to him in consequence.
+Guineas are already spread all over this
+province, and pass most readily.</p>
+
+<p>I am at an apothecary’s here, who was, I am sorry to
+say, robbed by our men just after the attack. Lord Hill
+offered to send him the money, nearly 15<em>l.</em> and a watch;
+but he declined taking it.</p>
+
+<p>Lord Wellington has a cold, but rode here yesterday in
+his white cloak, in a terribly cold day, with the snow
+directly in his face; for we have now got another little
+winter here, which is unusual.</p>
+
+<p>At the latter place there was a large church which was
+built by the English. In general, it is exactly in the
+style we call Saxon, or Old English, circular arches and
+Saxon ornaments. I suspect, however, it must have been
+built just as the Gothic style was coming into fashion, as
+the side aisle arches and part of the body of the church
+were Pointed or Gothic; and this did not appear to have
+been, like some of ours, a subsequent alteration. A
+handsome small old Corinthian façade was inserted
+within the large Saxon heavy arch, which formed the
+original entrance of the front of the church. In the
+town was a very good school, called <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Le Collége Impérial</i>.
+About ninety-two boys were then in the school, who all
+remained, and were very civil to our officers whenever
+we went there. The boys seemed to wish us well; and
+they do not usually conceal their real opinions. The
+establishment was in an old Benedictine abbey, and was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_429">[Pg 429]</span>
+exceedingly good. The lower cloisters and the great
+church, gutted at the Revolution, formed excellent play-places;
+and all the great corridors above were half enclosed
+by small wooden rooms for the boys, each having
+one to himself about eight feet by five, holding his bed,
+his chair, table, and box; and, by being all open at the
+top to the gallery, they were airy and yet retired and
+private. The expense of this school is about 400 francs,
+or 20<em>l.</em> a-year. For this, Latin, writing, French, geography,
+music, dancing, and a little mathematics were
+taught. Some boys could read Livy, Tacitus, and
+Cicero. The dinner and other arrangements are cleanly
+and good. Napoleon gave them the building. The
+funds were all private, no foundation, lands, or allowances
+from Government.</p>
+
+<p>The road from St. Sever here was through a rich flat
+bottom near the Adour, with a high bank all the way on
+the south side, with several chateaux. We crossed the
+Adour to come here at Sever, over our newly-made
+bridge; came along the great road on the north bank,
+and recrossed again at a ferry at this place, this for the
+fourth time since we left St. Jean de Luz. The country
+seems well cultivated, and not unlike parts of the Bath
+road, in Berkshire—a flat corn country, with wooded,
+rising grounds and villas at some distance, which formed
+the valley. We passed Grenade, rather a large village,
+about eight miles from St. Sever, and a large chateau
+about six miles off, belonging to the Marquis de St.
+Maurice, the chateau deriving its name from him. We
+also passed a small village, about four miles further on,
+called Cageres; and four miles more brought us here.
+The bridge at Barcelonne is about a mile and a half
+higher up, over the Adour, and has not been destroyed
+by the French; they only broke one arch of wood, which
+we have repaired. We were to have crossed there to
+get hither, but I came almost the first, found a ferry<span class="pagenum" id="Page_430">[Pg 430]</span>
+just re-established, and came over; most followed the
+same way.</p>
+
+<p>Aire is not so large a town as St. Sever or Orthes; it
+is about the size of Epsom. It is close to the river, is
+old and dirty, and half deserted. Several good houses
+gutted, or, at least, without furniture; and the ruins of a
+very large modern-built bishop’s palace, destroyed during
+the Revolution, when this place suffered much. At
+Upper Aire, which stands well on a hill half a mile
+above this, is a celebrated school or college, or rather two
+united. It was first formed about sixty or eighty years
+since, a handsome building erected for the purpose, and
+well contrived—in plan much like that at St. Sever. It
+was in great repute before the Revolution, but was then
+destroyed, and almost completely gutted. Within the
+last ten years, the professors and clergy have by degrees,
+by charities, charity sermons, and great exertions, nearly
+restored the whole again without Government assistance;
+and, before this late attack, above two hundred boys
+were there. In one building there are above a hundred
+boys, all destined for the church; in another, above a
+hundred for lay employments. An old church built by
+the English, but much altered, and in a much later
+style than that at St. Sever, stands between the schools,
+is used by them as a church, and unites the two establishments.
+The whole has a good broad play-terrace on
+the brow of the hill above the river. Education here is
+cheaper than at St. Sever, though there are no Government
+funds at either. The yearly cost is about three
+hundred or three hundred and fifty francs. I rather
+think clothing was, however, included in the estimate at
+St. Sever, and that would make the two much alike. The
+studies are the same. It puts me in mind of Maynooth
+College, near Dublin, and seemed what our colleges were
+three or four centuries ago.</p>
+
+<p>My patron or host at St. Sever is a sort of small landholder<span class="pagenum" id="Page_431">[Pg 431]</span>
+and noble, with his house in town and villa two
+miles off, which dated, as he took care to tell me, 130
+years, as the builder’s mark and his ancestor’s name
+proved, and therefore, “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">C’est clair, mais ce n’est rien
+pour moi, c’est bien vrai maintenant, que ma famille est
+supérieure à celle de M. le Maire de notre ville</i>,” &amp;c. M. le
+Maire had made most of his money by dabbling with
+national property during the Revolution, and succeeded
+better than many others here. “But,” continued my
+host, “as I have always been considered one of the
+noblesse, I have suffered accordingly; <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">mais n’importe</i>—I
+am grown a philosopher. I never can see such times as
+Robespierre’s again; so I see English, Spanish, Portuguese,
+and all with indifference, and remain quiet. At
+the same time I am now English (he always said <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">nous
+autres</i>, which often puzzled me), and I wish the cause
+well, and would contribute much to its success.” He
+seemed surprised that this contribution of maize for our
+horses was all paid for instantly, and that in gold, and at
+a fair good price, even though M. le Maire, who managed
+it (no one knew for what), detained eleven sous out of
+every eighty from all to whom he made payments.
+M. La Borde de Menos was my host’s name. He was
+very civil, and I dined with his family—his wife, two
+daughters, and a son—whenever I was not engaged,
+which happened only twice, at Lord Wellington’s. He
+also gave my men wine, &amp;c.; in short, I believe he
+rejoiced much at the change he had experienced in
+having me instead of a whole company of officers, men
+and all, which he had one day when we first came.</p>
+
+<p>In return for his treatment, I bought toys for the lad;
+gave some tea to Madame in case of sickness, and a pretty
+cadeau to Mademoiselle. In a word, we parted excellent
+friends. The many stories he told me of what had
+passed in Robespierre’s time were curious. M. La Borde<span class="pagenum" id="Page_432">[Pg 432]</span>
+was obliged to act with the Representant, and attend all
+meetings, to be only pillaged and abused by every one,
+and to bow and say, “Thank you all,” with his hat in
+his hand; and this was to prevent their having an excuse
+for guillotining him, as thirty of the principal people
+were put to death in the small town of St. Sever. The
+living alone and staying away was of itself a heinous
+offence, and every requisition of a cart for a day’s use was
+called for <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">sous peine de mort</i>. That was the form of all
+demands. A ball was given by the Representant.
+Every one was obliged to go or be suspected. Madame
+went. She had a valuable gold watch-chain; but not
+daring to show it, she went with a cut steel one. The
+Representant said, “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Mais où est donc votre chaine d’or?
+Le publique en a besoin.</i>” She was obliged to swear it
+had been stolen, and to hide it ever afterwards. The
+Representant seemed incredulous, and the risk of this
+fraud was great, but it answered. Monsieur was not so
+lucky; he had a valuable ring, and attended one of the
+meetings with it on. The Representant said, “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Tu
+F—— Noble, donnez moi ta bague, ce n’est pas pour des
+gens comme toi; le publique en a besoin.</i>” He took it off
+and gave it up, and some months after saw it on the
+finger of one of the Representant’s relations.</p>
+
+<p>I have now a will to draw up in case of accident,
+for Sir N. P——, bart., to secure 10,000<em>l.</em> to each of his
+younger children. He is here with his regiment; so
+adieu.</p>
+
+<p>Lord Wellington abuses the Allies for having been
+beaten when they had the game in their hands; and
+says, one ran his head against the Marne, and the other
+against the Seine, and the whole was ill-managed. We
+have the further news of a French column having made
+its way from Lyons to near Geneva again; but a report
+still later, that the Allies, under Blucher, got into Bonaparte’s<span class="pagenum" id="Page_433">[Pg 433]</span>
+rear. These checks are, even if they end in
+nothing, of the greatest use to him. They deter people
+from declaring their opinions; may make every difference
+in that way here and at Bordeaux; and I should
+not be surprised if they encouraged Marshal Soult to
+make another stand near here, on this side the Garonne,
+which I do not think he would otherwise have done.</p>
+
+<p>I am told that he is in a position at present from
+Tarbes to Plaisance, on a ridge of hills, and that the
+country is full of positions. My news is from M. D——,
+the husband of my young Spanish Bilboa lady, who came
+to me to-day. They have left Bayonne from fear, and
+are waiting the events of the war at Pau, whence he
+came over here—and like a true placeman, thinking
+matters were about to change, he insinuated to me that
+he should like an appointment under the new order of
+things—under the direction of the Bourbons or the
+English.</p>
+
+<p>He also wanted a passport for his little wife’s brother
+to go back to Bilboa, from General Alava. This I have
+obtained for him; but on condition that the civil authorities
+are written to, and the brother examined on his
+arrival, as to his conduct, &amp;c. M. D—— was Colonel
+F——’s friend and not mine; and to confess the truth, I
+had no great opinion of him, but thought he was only
+attentive to Colonel F—— to serve his own purposes,
+and seemed to be rather an intriguing gentleman. It is,
+however, quite my principle that every one should be
+allowed to go home, and go about his business; and I am
+sure that Spain will profit by the residence of any one
+who has lived at all with the French, and acquired some
+notions of what mankind are capable of, and of human
+exertion.</p>
+
+<p>In my walks to-day, I met a poor gentleman who told
+me we had taken all his forage, and that his oxen were<span class="pagenum" id="Page_434">[Pg 434]</span>
+starving, and that he must sell them; he was going to a
+contractor for that purpose. I advised him to go to our
+Commissary Haines, to whom I took him, for I thought
+each would gain by a bargain direct. His oxen are to
+be inspected to-morrow. During our conversation, he
+told me that he was the brother-in-law of Dulau, the
+French bookseller in Soho Square, and that the latter had
+no nearer relation, but that he could never hear of him,
+or write to him. I undertook to send his letter. If such
+a letter is enclosed to you, therefore, you will know all
+about it, and my poor man may get a legacy or something
+by it, from the great Mr. Dulau, for such he
+must be.</p>
+
+<p><em>Saturday, March 12th.</em>—We remain here to-day, and
+shall do so probably for a few days, unless the French
+move off. We seem to be moving up. A brigade of
+artillery and some troops were yesterday taking the
+direction to Pau, to secure that town, I conclude, as we
+have now only artillery there, and also, perhaps, to turn
+the left of the French position at Tarbes. Lord Wellington
+is better; his hounds go out to-day, and I should
+not be surprised at his being out with them. As a proof
+how savage war makes every one, even an English soldier,
+I may tell you that poor H——’s body was stript
+by the English soldiers of his own division, to which he
+was acting as Adjutant-general, and almost before his
+body was cold. I believe two or three men have been
+flogged for this. By degrees we all get hardened to anything.</p>
+
+<p>I find the same sort of custom here as to letting land,
+as is to be found near Bayonne. The landlord puts a
+peasant into a little farm, furnishes it, pays the taxes, and
+finds the necessary cattle, beasts, and horses, for the cultivation
+of the land; in return, he receives the full half
+of the clear produce as rent, but in kind, and very little<span class="pagenum" id="Page_435">[Pg 435]</span>
+money is seen. Before we came, bread was three sous
+the pound, which would be about sixpence three-farthings
+the quartern loaf. A goose has been five francs of late,
+but that is dear. Fowls are now only half-a-crown or
+three shillings each, and very good even to the English.
+If we remain long in a place, we soon cause the prices
+to rise.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_436">[Pg 436]</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXIV">CHAPTER XXIV.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="fs80" style="margin-left: 2em; text-indent: -2em;">Reports from the Seat of War—The Duke d’Angoulême—The German
+Cavalry—Misconduct of the Spaniards—Attacks on our Grazing Parties—Movement
+of Head-Quarters—Death of Colonel Sturgeon—Visit to
+the Hospital—New Quarters—Skirmishes—Wellington and the Mayor.</p>
+
+<p class="right fs80">
+Head-quarters, Aire,<br>
+<span style="padding-right: 1em">March 16, 1814.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="no-indent"><span class="smcap">My dear M——</span>,
+</p>
+
+<p><span style="padding-left: 2em">Here</span> we remain still, and probably shall do so
+for a few days, for the French Marshal not only keeps
+his position near Conchez, across our road to Tarbes and
+Toulouse, but does not seem disposed to go beyond
+demonstrations, and cannot muster courage to attack us,
+and we, I believe, are not quite prepared to attack him.
+The glorious reception Marshal Beresford met with at
+Bordeaux, and the spirited and decided conduct of the
+<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">maire</i>, &amp;c., there, you will have heard by the last mail,
+for the news came after my letter, but before Lord Wellington’s
+bag was dispatched. We have all sorts of
+reports from the vicinity of Paris, about the battle at
+Meaux, of a large French corps having gone over to Bernadotte.
+There are reports from Bordeaux, but all
+uncertain; I think, however, that the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">maire</i> must have
+had some good intelligence to induce him to take the line
+he has done, which must be his ruin, and that of all his
+friends, if we make peace at last with Bonaparte.</p>
+
+<p>The Duke d’Angoulême, at first, it is said, declined a
+burgher guard, and preferred an English one. This will<span class="pagenum" id="Page_437">[Pg 437]</span>
+not do: he must show confidence and spirit, and rely
+upon his French friends, and give no offence by partialities
+for the English. This was bad advice in some
+one about him, for I understand he personally has always
+wished to take a decided line, and risk his personal safety
+for the cause.</p>
+
+<p>We hear the Royalist party are beginning <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">à la lanterne</i>
+again, but I hope this is not true. The inhabitants of
+Bordeaux must arm and protect themselves. We shall
+leave but a small force there. The river and their own
+people must be their chief reliance. Lord Wellington
+has sent for the fourth division from Marshal Beresford
+to help here. Canning went off at four o’clock on the
+14th, with these orders (as I understand); he was sent
+from Gartin by Lord Wellington, eleven miles from this
+in front, and was here in an hour. Whilst he was dressing
+and getting a fresh horse, I got him his money from
+the Paymaster, and he was off, remounted for Roquefort,
+twenty miles; and thence he was to post the other
+seventy miles all night to Bordeaux. He was heard of
+at Langon, about three or four in the morning, so that by
+nine o’clock on the 15th he would be in Bordeaux; and
+as the fourth division, which was at Langon, would
+march that day, in about two days more they will be
+here. All our 18-pounders and some other reinforcements
+will arrive, and then Soult must be off, or I hope
+get another beating.</p>
+
+<p>The heavy German Cavalry (for by its name they wish
+to be known, for it carries credit with it), went through
+here two days since in admirable order, the horses in particular,
+but the latter are altogether too slight for the
+men, who are all large, bony, heavy men, of a certain age,
+and experienced heroes. It will not be easy by a royal
+order, and light jacket and caps, to transform these gentlemen
+into light Germans, nor do the corps like it at all.
+Ponsonby’s heavy brigade is also close by, fresh from<span class="pagenum" id="Page_438">[Pg 438]</span>
+Spain, like the Germans, and in the same excellent condition.
+Nearly ten thousand Spaniards, very fine-looking
+men, and in good discipline, are also two miles from this,
+at or near Barcelona. Hitherto they have behaved in
+general much better than was expected on the march;
+but we feed them, as they have no transport. If they
+will but fight a little in return, and take their share of
+loss, we should do famously.</p>
+
+<p>Murillo’s Spaniards, I am sorry to say, have begun
+very ill in our front. The day before yesterday, Soult
+made an advance against them; when they were ordered
+to fall back a little to a rivulet, and there defend themselves.
+Once with their backs turned, however, away
+they went, and never stopped until the Buffs were
+ordered up to stop the French, who, the moment they
+saw the red coats coming on, were off home again very
+quickly, but not quite so rapidly as the Spaniards had run
+from them.</p>
+
+<p>The Portuguese cavalry had a little affair, and behaved
+well. The 14th Dragoons had also an affair the day
+before yesterday. Half a squadron under Captain
+Babington were ordered by Colonel Harvey to drive off
+a French half squadron, and then halt until he came up.
+They upset the French, saw another whole squadron
+beyond, were tempted to go on by their first success, and
+succeeded in a great measure again, but Captain Babington
+was taken. The wounded French dragoons of the
+5th regiment, brought in here prisoners, are all very fine
+men, and the whole regiment are said to be the same sort
+of men. They came in much cut about the head and
+hands.</p>
+
+<p>The forage animals of head-quarters were yesterday
+very nearly getting into a terrible scrape—about two
+hundred and fifty animals, and two of mine in the number.
+They foolishly went in front of our picquets, or
+nearly so, though regularly under commissariat directions.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_439">[Pg 439]</span>
+Whilst they were loading at a farm, one peasant slipped
+away, and it is concluded told some French dragoons
+near what was going on, whilst the other in the house
+gave some of the party wine. There were four artillerymen
+unarmed in the house, and about six Portuguese,
+one of whom was mine, when a French officer of cavalry,
+with his sword drawn, came to the window, told them
+all to come out, and that they were prisoners. When
+they came out, seeing that he was alone and his party
+three or four hundred yards off, they mounted their
+mules, and nearly all got off, with the loss of, it is said,
+only one man and two or three mules. Some fellows
+galloped all the way here without their loads or cords,
+and at first spread an alarm that all were taken. They
+arrived home in the course of the day, and my Portuguese
+brought home a load of good hay and two deserted
+ropes in triumph. It is thought that the party
+should have brought off the officer prisoner, but most are
+satisfied with having got their own property back again.
+He cut one of the artillerymen on the finger, who put
+up his arm to save himself.</p>
+
+<p>Another party of muleteers with stores from Mont
+de Marsan to Bordeaux, with supplies for the seventh
+division, to which they belonged, were attacked three
+days since on their road near Roquefort, quite in our
+rear and on our communications, by some French partizans,
+a sort of guerillas called <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">La Bande</i>. These now,
+it is said, are employed by Soult: they were formerly a
+set of <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">douaniers</i>, or smuggler catchers. Several mules
+were killed and wounded, and, I believe, some muleteers
+killed, and some of the money taken. It is to be feared
+that the Spanish muleteers will begin to be alarmed at
+this. We have cavalry, however, on the road, and they
+will now be more on the look out in future.</p>
+
+<p>This place is now much crowded. Three new Generals
+came in yesterday and to-day,—Sir Stapleton<span class="pagenum" id="Page_440">[Pg 440]</span>
+Cotton to-day, with, about a hundred animals belonging
+to himself and his staff. I was turned out of my stable
+in consequence, though but a very bad one, and my
+animals are now in a back kitchen turned into a stable.
+At Barcelona the Spaniards turned out the cavalry with
+much less ceremony. It is said that a company, with a
+Captain at their head, gallantly charged Captain S——’s
+horses and bâtmen (General C——’s aide-de-camp), and
+were very successful. One little blood-horse kicked
+about, broke loose, and made a good defence, without
+injuring himself; but another horse, not so quick in his
+retreat, received two slight bayonet wounds, and a slight
+cut with a sabre, and the Spaniards carried the day, behaving
+like heroes!</p>
+
+<p>Our people are all moved in consequence, and I hope
+that these <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">valorosos</i> and blood-thirsty gentlemen will
+soon be allowed to contend with a more glorious enemy,
+and will behave with equal spirit when the opportunity
+shall arrive.</p>
+
+<p>The Swedish (Bernadotte’s) aide-de-camp is, it seems,
+to campaign with us; he is buying horses, &amp;c., and
+preparing for the field. He is a great talker, and, I
+understand, of this country. From his conversation
+he seems to have served against us under Massena in
+Portugal, but how he is what he is I do not exactly
+understand.</p>
+
+<p>The weather is still very cold. Lord Wellington
+would not even condescend to-day to go and look at
+the French. He only sent Colonel Gordon to go on to
+Gartin, and report.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, 17th March, Aire.</em>—About three
+o’clock yesterday we learnt that the French were off,
+and filed through Conchez, apparently on the way to
+Tarbes. I think they will not venture to go too near
+the mountains, but must make for Toulouse. If not,
+our fourth division, which, it is said, will be here to-night,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_441">[Pg 441]</span>
+will make us strong enough, I hope, to push a
+column through Auch straight to Toulouse, while the
+rest follow Soult, and we should then be at Toulouse
+first. I conclude he will turn that way from Tarbes.
+General Hill moved a little after the French yesterday
+to keep them in sight. The rest of the army will, in
+my opinion, get in motion to-day or to-morrow, and
+head-quarters move on very soon afterwards. About
+fifty prisoners were sent in here last night, mostly
+dragoons.</p>
+
+<p>We are all alive again with regard to the Allies, and
+the stories from Bordeaux are most animating. In
+addition to this, we move after Soult to-morrow. Head-quarters
+to be at Viella, nearly three leagues in advance,
+towards Auch. I fear we shall, as part of head-quarters,
+see neither Toulouse nor Bordeaux; for if my generalship
+correspond with Lord Wellington’s, Soult will in
+my opinion cross the Garonne, and our right will go
+to Toulouse, and we, as part of head-quarters, shall pass
+the river by some bridge to be laid down below near
+Agen,—more towards the centre of our movements.
+The scene at Bordeaux I much regret to have lost. We
+already hear of disturbances at Toulouse, and even
+reports of Louis XVIII. being proclaimed at Paris.
+From the want of a popular Bourbon cry at Bordeaux,
+I hear they have set up “Henri IV.,” and “Gode sav de
+King.” The weather to-day is delightful: I only hope
+it will last. We are told that Suchet has offered to
+withdraw all his garrisons from Spain into France, and
+give up the towns in their present state; this has been
+referred, it is said, to Lord Wellington, and by him
+refused, as only releasing so many men for present use,
+who must sooner or later, if we persevere, be prisoners.
+This is quite right no doubt for the common cause.</p>
+
+<p><em>Viella, 18th.</em>—I have just time to add a few lines
+at this place, which is about nine miles from Aire, on<span class="pagenum" id="Page_442">[Pg 442]</span>
+the road to Tarbes, and our head-quarters to-day. It
+is a small scattered village, so much so that I am at a
+farm at least two miles or more from the main village,
+and nearly by myself at the last house in the commune.
+I have, however, a doctor and a commissary within a
+quarter of a mile, and as we are fortunately well received,
+and welcomed everywhere, it does not signify. I
+feel quite at ease.</p>
+
+<p>We had a tiresome march here, for the third division,
+the sixth, and the heavy Germans with the baggage
+of all three, the whole of the pontoon train, the artillery
+of the two divisions, head-quarter’s baggage, and eight
+thousand Spaniards all went the same road, over our
+newly-made bridge across the Leis, a small stream which
+falls into the Adour, near Barcelonne. The French, in
+destroying this bridge, had not blown up or burnt the
+main centre pier, so that about twenty-five elm trees,
+about twenty-five feet long, and bundles of fascines,
+about twelve feet long, placed crosswise, and then
+covered with dirt, in two days’ time made us a famous
+bridge.</p>
+
+<p>Some time hence, when the fascines get rotten, some
+luckless car or horseman will no doubt go through into
+the water, which is deep, and about twenty feet below.
+The high roads are excellent, and the country, though
+not a rich soil, very pretty and loveable. Almost every
+drain under the road, or a small arch for streams to pass
+under, had been broken down; some left so from neglect
+of late, some I believe just made on purpose to delay us:
+faggots, and a little mould, with a few small trees at
+bottom, soon made a passage, but created delays.</p>
+
+<p><em>19th, 7 o’clock.</em>—To-day we move to Maubourguet,
+nearly in the Tarbes road. This looks as if Soult was
+making for Tarbes, and not Toulouse. I can scarcely
+believe this. If he places his rear on the mountains,
+he gives up Toulouse, and the richest country; and if<span class="pagenum" id="Page_443">[Pg 443]</span>
+beaten when up there, will, in my opinion, escape with
+difficulty. He may expect some reinforcements from
+Suchet that way, but still must go to Toulouse.</p>
+
+<p>We, however, have now a chance of seeing the latter,
+whereas I thought we should have crossed nearer Agen,
+lower down the river.</p>
+
+<p>My patron here is very friendly. The French plundered
+him terribly, and all his neighbours. They call
+them brigands, and dread them more than our army.
+My man let five Portuguese dragoons through his premises,
+and, he says, saved them. He is of a class of
+men that existed in former days in England; the owner
+and cultivator of eighty acres of land, partly corn,
+partly wood, partly vineyards, and partly meadow—thus
+he has all within himself. He has a wife and four
+children, two women servants, two pair of oxen, of which
+he has been obliged to sell one pair to pay the French
+contributions. He has two labourers, both deserters,
+for keeping whom he knows he is liable to a fine of
+from five hundred to three thousand francs, and to be
+confined five years, but he can get no other servants, and
+of course these are faithful.</p>
+
+<p>His land, he says, is worth about 50<em>s.</em> an acre. It
+requires much labour, but when left alone he says is
+good enough to make them very happy. In spite of
+all that he has suffered, and his earnest desire for peace,
+he is certainly no friend to the Bourbons. He curses
+Bonaparte for his ambition, has a tolerably just notion
+of all his losses in the North, and in Spain, from the
+soldiers; but still, would rather, in my opinion, have
+Bonaparte and peace than the Bourbons. I can never
+get him to say a word, good or bad, as to the latter.
+At the same time, like all the rest of the French, he
+would just now submit to anything for peace. All have
+the highest respect for Lord Wellington, which they say
+they learn from the French army, high and low.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_444">[Pg 444]</span></p>
+
+<p><em>Maubourguet, 5 o’clock.</em>—We left Viella at nine, and
+after a tiresome ride through baggage the whole way,
+arrived here about four o’clock, though it is only about
+fifteen miles. The bridges were all broken down, and
+nearly every gutter across the road, but this only caused
+delays, and was quite ineffectual. The troops and
+artillery waggons all found some way round or through.
+When about twelve miles on our road, we found the
+last three miles quite choked with all the baggage of
+head-quarters and the troops. At first I conceived the
+delay arose in a broken bridge being repaired, and was
+patient; but a sharp firing and cannonade soon commenced
+in front of Maubourguet, near Vic, and then,
+guessing that it was an intentional halt, I made my
+way through it here, and found every one in front,
+and a sharp firing about four miles in advance, near
+Vic Bigorre.</p>
+
+<p>I met also a party of the fine German cavalry wounded
+going to the rear; they had had an affair the day before
+yesterday in advance of Madiran, half way between that
+place and this, and with two squadrons instantly upset
+four squadrons of French chasseurs, took many horses,
+and cut up many men, but the French ran too fast to
+leave any prisoners. This tempted the Germans to
+attack yesterday a very superior force, it is said three
+times their number—three French regiments; and I
+hear they suffered much.</p>
+
+<p>In the first affair they had about four killed and
+eighteen wounded. We were at first without orders
+as to staying here and unpacking, but a report soon
+reached us that the French would not stand, and were
+off. So we all unpacked quietly before the firing ceased,
+and prepared for dinner in this town, where five hundred
+French cavalry had passed the night, and had only
+departed about eight in the morning, with the curses
+of the inhabitants. Our Portuguese were principally<span class="pagenum" id="Page_445">[Pg 445]</span>
+engaged, it is said, yesterday, and without much loss.
+The sixth division entered Vic last night.</p>
+
+<p><em>Maubourguet, 7 o’clock, 20th, Sunday.</em>—No orders last
+night. Lord Wellington very late home; but I have
+just learned that we are to move to-day to Tarbes,
+taking it for granted that the French will be out to
+make room for us. This is very strange, and so is the
+confidence of our men. When we halted yesterday
+the bâtmen were saying, when within three miles of
+this place, the head-quarters, “We must only wait a
+little till the troops have cleared our quarters for us and
+made room.”</p>
+
+<p>I now cannot understand Soult’s plans. He seems
+to be making for the mountains, and to have suffered
+us in some measure to cut him off from Toulouse.
+Colonel Canning arrived last night from Bordeaux with
+an account of a grand defeat of Bonaparte, and that he
+had fallen back on Orleans. This I expected if he were
+not killed, as I concluded he would try and unite with
+the Lyons army and Soult’s, and make one more stand
+in the heart of the kingdom. If this be true, Lord
+Wellington must be careful as to passing the Garonne;
+Soult’s junction, nevertheless, will at any rate be doubtful.
+Our men are in the highest spirits, and driving all
+before them; weather fine.</p>
+
+<p><em>Tournay, March 21st.</em>—At nine left Maubourguet;
+about four miles further I stopped at Vic Bigorre, to see
+poor Colonel Sturgeon’s body. He was a very clever
+man and officer, and particularly skilful as a bridge
+engineer, and in all languages. He went too close to
+the skirmishers, to reconnoitre, and was shot in the
+head just under the eye. I also went over the hospital,
+to assist Dr. M’Gregor in giving directions to the French
+as to arrangements, to talk to and satisfy some wounded
+French officers, and to get bedding, straw, and help from
+the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">maire</i> by requisition instantly. We had about two<span class="pagenum" id="Page_446">[Pg 446]</span>
+hundred wounded there of all nations, many Portuguese,
+one of whom was undergoing the operation of amputation
+of his leg and thigh, very high up, and seemed in
+great agony. The French surgeon thought that Dr.
+M’Gregor was finding fault, and stopped, and turned
+to us to explain. I understand he was doing it in
+a clumsy way, but Dr. M’Gregor begged me to praise
+him highly, or he would be alarmed and do it still
+worse. Close to Vic, by the road-side, were about a
+dozen bodies of men killed by cannon-shot, and terribly
+mauled.</p>
+
+<p>Having loaded a mule with oats from a French store
+at Vic, I proceeded towards Tournay. The road was
+crammed, and some sharp skirmishing going on about
+three miles beyond the town, which had commenced
+on the Vic side. The French only left the town about
+nine o’clock, and tried to blow up the bridge, but were
+stopped by two or three gun-shots. They stood their
+ground tolerably, on a very strong ridge of hills, until
+night, and remained <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">en bivouac</i> on them last night. At
+three this morning they were off; and here we are after
+them again, about nine miles on the road to Toulouse,
+at this place, Tournay, which was last night Marshal
+Soult’s head-quarters.</p>
+
+<p>Tarbes is a good town and contains a number of good
+houses. From the houses being large, and having yards
+and gardens, and from there being one or two large open
+spaces or squares, it covers a good deal of ground, but
+does not count, I understand, above ten or eleven thousand
+inhabitants. The people received us in general very
+well, but were quite passive, taking no part in any way.
+They had been kept quite in ignorance of all that was
+going on in the north, and at Bordeaux in particular—at
+least a great part of them. I explained, and
+harangued all I could in order to set them right. My
+own patron was, it struck me, a strong Bonapartist,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_447">[Pg 447]</span>
+and I took some pains to plague him a little accordingly.
+We have had no sort of interruption to-day,
+except from the multitudes passing, which form a continued
+stream, from five in the morning, along a wide
+road, until about four or five in the day. The fine
+weather has unfortunately turned to rain, but I hope will
+return to us again.</p>
+
+<p>You will see by the map that Soult has taken to the
+Toulouse road at last. He is at Mont St. Jean to-day,
+it is said; and that, as usual, when inclined to run, the
+French beat our people in marching, and we cannot cut
+him off. He has run some risks by going this roundabout
+road; and had we been strong enough to have
+pushed along the Auch road also, we should have puzzled
+him a little. We shall now, most probably, drive him
+gradually to the Garonne. It is likely, in my opinion,
+that he will make another stand. I have been turned
+out of my stable, and had much trouble with the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">maire</i>,
+so have only time to seal up.</p>
+
+<p>P.S. The country, from Maubourguet to Vic, Tarbes,
+and part of the way here, was all a flat, of rich country,
+like the country between Bridgewater and across into
+Somersetshire; except that half the meadows at least
+were vineyards and orchards in one, and interlaced very
+prettily; the fruit-trees kept small, about ten feet high,
+and the vines trained off at about six, and all intertwined
+and furled together with withy-bands. This was famous
+cover, as no musquet-ball could pass far through the
+trees; a few common shot had destroyed the quincunx
+regularity in many places. The water meadows were
+very beautiful, and the system seemed to be understood
+and well managed; the streams beautifully clear. The
+background of this large flat was all the way to the
+Haute Pyrenees covered with snow; but the higher Pic
+du Midi was never visible, always in the clouds; the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_448">[Pg 448]</span>
+lower one was. The Alps are far superior, as far as I
+can judge. Adieu.</p>
+
+<p><em>Nine o’clock at night, Isle en Dodon, March 24th,
+1814.</em>—Our post and movements are now so uncertain
+and sudden, that I know not when or how to write to
+you, and fear that my last was sent too late, and may
+probably be sent with this, by which means all the zest
+of late news from the army will be lost. I have just
+heard, by accident, that a mail will go to-night, and have
+only time to scribble a few hasty lines immediately after
+dinner. My last finished at Tournay; thence we proceeded
+the next day to Galan, a poor village, and rather
+a wild mountain road, the short cut to Toulouse. Our
+second division and cavalry followed the enemy along the
+high road by Lannernezon, Mont St. Jean, and St. Gaudens.
+One corps of their army went also through Galan.
+The <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">maire</i> of the latter was a fine old man of eighty-two,
+and a good friend.</p>
+
+<p>I was at a miserable half-furnished house, and my
+baggage being stopped by the Spanish troops, it did
+not arrive until seven o’clock; luckily it came in time
+for me to dress, in order to dine with Lord Wellington,
+a mile off, in the rain. The <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">maire</i> had been an hour in
+the room with Lord Wellington before he found him
+out, talking by the fire in his quarter, until at last Lord
+Wellington, having let him go on some time, asked him
+to dinner. This staggered him, and led to an explanation.
+The <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">maire</i> said, that the night before he had had
+Generals Clausel and Harispe, and that they only ordered
+a dinner to be prepared, and did not ask him to eat part
+of his own, or thank him, or take the least notice of him.
+He could not, therefore, believe that Lord Wellington
+was the enemy’s General, after having been so treated, as
+he said, “like a dog,” by his friends.</p>
+
+<p>My own patron was a half-starved apothecary without<span class="pagenum" id="Page_449">[Pg 449]</span>
+medicines or drugs. He offered to dress a fowl for me,
+but was very willing instead to sell me one for twice its
+value, for dinner the next day.</p>
+
+<p><em>23rd.</em>—We moved again to Boulognes, about sixteen
+miles, rather a long march, and in part bad road, though
+in general the roads all over this part of France are very
+much superior to ours in England; compared with our
+best roads, they are very superior to any in the distant
+counties, and to many of our main and best roads, even
+in the neighbourhood of London. The light, third,
+fourth, and sixth divisions of cavalry, and about eight
+thousand Spaniards, all move with this column, and we
+reach of course by mid-day, when all is in motion, with
+the artillery and baggage, about ten miles. The second
+division and cavalry follow the French. At St. Gaudens
+the 13th Dragoons came up with the French rear cavalry,
+formed just outside the town, charged, broke them, drove
+them pell-mell through the town on their reverse beyond
+it. There they re-formed; the 13th charged again; then
+the French ran, with the 13th after them, for two miles.
+The result is said to be a hundred and twenty prisoners
+and horses, besides killed.</p>
+
+<p>From Boulognes we to-day marched to this place—Isle
+en Dodon. The majority of the people here seem
+to be friends of Bonaparte, and the assistant <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">maire</i> in
+particular, with whom I had much conversation; for he
+gave Doctor Hume and me a joint billet at the empty
+house where he gave out the billets, and no stable
+at all. As I was obliged to have him in the room
+so long, I determined to work him a little for treating
+us so ill.</p>
+
+<p>The <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">maire</i> of Boulognes ran away at first. At night
+he came back and went to Lord Wellington, who showed
+him his proclamations and regulations, &amp;c. The <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">maire</i>
+said he had taken the oath to Bonaparte, and would not
+act. “Very well,” said Lord Wellington, “then the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_450">[Pg 450]</span>
+people must choose another; but now you have taken
+your line, I must take mine, and send you over the Garonne
+into the French lines.” He gave orders accordingly,
+to Colonel S——. The <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">maire</i> ran away, and could
+not be found. Colonel S—— took up the father, to
+march him off until the son appeared. This brought
+him out; he remonstrated with Lord Wellington, said he
+was one of the first men of the country, and should be
+ruined by this. Lord Wellington said, “He should have
+thought of that sooner, and he must go;” and to this
+place he came to-day a prisoner.</p>
+
+<p>We have just received orders to march to Samatan to-morrow.
+All here have a notion that Suchet’s forces
+join Soult near here; that is, have done so, or are to do
+so; but we are a little in the dark, and the ignorance of
+the French about everything is astonishing: they seem
+quite stupified. But Bonaparte has many friends still,
+and the reports in the French papers, though upon the
+whole good, are not decisive. The armistice seems to
+have gone off from the arrangements about Italy. We
+are living, like the rest of the armies and the French,
+by requisitions; but we hitherto pay in money, which
+others do not. We consume everything, however, like
+locusts.</p>
+
+<p>Lord Wellington popped between Colonel G—— and
+me as we were discussing the allied battles this morning,
+and suddenly took a part, to my great astonishment, in
+our conversation.</p>
+
+<p>On leaving Tarbes a party of civilians went round by
+Bagnières to see the baths, the rooms, &amp;c., a sort of Spa,
+about twelve miles round, and where no troops had been;
+not an Englishman there, but they were told they would
+be well received, and so they were indeed. The <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">maire</i>
+addressed them; the people were in crowds, so that it
+required force to enable them to pass. The National
+Guard turned out and presented arms to them: it was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_451">[Pg 451]</span>
+like Lord Wellington’s entry into Zamora, they say, such
+an outcry! such a display! A ball was proposed, but as
+there was a French garrison about six miles off, and no
+allied troops near, the party declined staying, and went
+off highly pleased with their excursion. This is very
+odd, for on the road we go, all is stupefaction and indifference.
+I should have enjoyed this, but am obliged
+to be very prudent now, after my late escape. Adieu
+again.</p>
+
+<p>The schoolmaster, or <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">prêtre</i>, at Boulognes had written
+a long poem entitled “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Mon Rêve</i>,” a prophecy nearly of
+everything which has taken place, and containing
+much in honour of Lord Wellington. He said he had
+long had it concealed, and volunteered spouting it
+out to us, to his own great satisfaction, and it really
+was not bad.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_452">[Pg 452]</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXV">CHAPTER XXV.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="fs80" style="margin-left: 2em; text-indent: -2em;">Difficulties of the March—Failure of the Bridge of Boats—The Garonne—Excesses
+of Murillo’s Corps—Bad News—Exchange of Prisoners—Arrival
+before Toulouse—A Prisoner of War—Anecdote of Wellington.</p>
+
+<p class="right fs80">
+Head-quarters, Samatan,<br>
+<span style="padding-right: 2em">March 25, 1814.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="no-indent"><span class="smcap">My dear M——</span>,
+</p>
+
+<p><span style="padding-left: 2em">At</span> eight this morning, we left L’Isle en Dodon
+for this place, about eight miles nearer to Toulouse, from
+which we (the head-quarters) are now only distant about
+twenty-six miles. Our troops at St. Lys, and St. Foy,
+and that vicinity, are within eleven miles; our right is
+still a little more in the rear on the St. Gaudens’ road,
+near Martres, under General Hill.</p>
+
+<p>I have just met with a corn-factor who left Toulouse
+this morning. He says that Marshal Soult arrived
+there with about eight thousand men last night. The
+same number were expected to-day, and a force of twelve
+thousand men from Suchet’s army was expected to join,
+or rather, the twelve thousand men were to be principally
+a reinforcement of conscripts, collected by the Imperial
+Commissioner Caffarelli. A small bridge, called St.
+Antoine, near St. Martin, about a mile from Toulouse,
+was destroyed on the road from Isle Jourdain to Toulouse,
+and some works were being formed, and an appearance
+of defence was being made near to St. Martin,
+at a place where three roads branch off, a mile from
+Toulouse, and called La Pate d’Ore. The narrator,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_453">[Pg 453]</span>
+though no judge, thought the works could not be
+completed in time, and that if we pressed on we
+should pass them without much difficulty. The bridge,
+he said also, was mined; it is a very noble bridge,
+but it was reported that there was a ford passable so
+near, that it was thought the mine would not be made
+use of.</p>
+
+<p>The news from Paris had ceased for some days, and
+this gave rise to many stories of Paris having been taken,
+&amp;c. I am lodged here with some very civil good people,
+and who, in my opinion, really wish us well, and are
+very different from the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">maire adjoint</i> at the last place,
+who seemed a good Bonapartist, as are many of the
+people at L’Isle en Dodon. About six miles from that
+place, and ten from this, we passed through a very good
+old-fashioned town, larger than this, called Lombez, where
+the people, in spite of having had a division of troops
+quartered in their houses and in the church, seemed to
+wish us very well.</p>
+
+<p>The country in this neighbourhood is a wide flat near
+the river, with a gently rising boundary of hill and good
+corn land, the soil heavy, and the roads very deep in consequence.
+I always expected my horses’ shoes to be
+sucked off every ten minutes by the strong clay.</p>
+
+<p>The <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">maire</i> of Boulognes continues his route with us,
+looking very forlorn, and with three staff corps men
+round him, our gens-d’armes. He began to repent to-day,
+and offered to act as <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">maire</i>, but Lord Wellington
+said it was too late. He then wrote to his wife, saying,
+“He was a martyr to his principles,” &amp;c., when his offer
+had been refused. So much for the principles of this
+good friend of Napoleon! Had his offer been accepted,
+he would have gone on as <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">maire</i>. His friend Bonaparte
+was, however, I really and truly think, never greater than
+he has been in his adversity during the last three months.
+The manner in which he has fought against all his difficulties<span class="pagenum" id="Page_454">[Pg 454]</span>
+is very astonishing, and it would not surprise
+me now if he succeeded in fighting himself into a
+tolerable peace. His boldness in finding fault with
+his generals, &amp;c., and having them disgraced and tried
+at this moment, is very striking. In short, I am
+almost inclined to believe that his own spirit, the
+bad conduct of the Cossacks, and the wavering policy of
+some of our Allies, will enable him to keep his place
+amongst the list of sovereigns, though never to triumph
+over them all, as he intended, and very nearly managed
+to do.</p>
+
+<p>There are several good chateaux near here I am told:
+one of these is occupied by Major M——, in our service,
+who was a prisoner of war, and thought it the best way
+to pass his captivity in double chains, or rather to cast
+off one chain by taking another, and by marrying an
+heiress, enjoy himself whilst here. I understand that
+he has served as <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">maire</i> of the place; General Pakenham
+and Colonel Campbell know him.</p>
+
+<p>The army is now almost entirely fed on the country,
+and the rations paid for in bills or ready money. Our
+transports, such as they were, are quite outrun by our
+continual marches and distance from the depôts. We do
+not even resort to our grand prize-magazine at Mont de
+Marsan. We are also boldly isolated in the country,
+with scarcely five hundred men the whole way between
+this and Bayonne; and between this and Tarbes I believe
+none at all. Were not the general disposition of
+the people so good, at least so submissive, the stragglers
+and parties joining the army would be all destroyed; as
+it is, we have had few accidents. An affair is expected
+in a day or two near Toulouse, but this is doubtful. In
+the meantime King Ferdinand must be in Spain, as he
+long since passed through Toulouse on his way there.</p>
+
+<p><em>9 o’clock at night.</em>—Later accounts from the front say
+that the French are leaving Toulouse, but I think they<span class="pagenum" id="Page_455">[Pg 455]</span>
+will make a show of resistance at least. Lord Wellington
+said at dinner to-day he feared that they would
+blow up the bridge, but that he had his pontoons with
+him, and by showing the enemy that he could pass
+either above or below the bridge, he would try to save it.
+To-morrow will determine much, as head-quarters move
+four leagues to St. Lys, within about three leagues of
+Toulouse, and the troops are to move down into the
+plain in which the town stands. This is hard work for
+the men and baggage-animals, as the roads are excessively
+deep, and it is said will be worse to-morrow than
+to-day. We pass through St. Foy. We cannot learn
+where Marshal Suchet is; Lord Wellington does not
+know. He received despatches by a courier from Catalonia
+after dinner to-day, dated the 16th of March. It
+was not known there for certain that he had quitted
+Catalonia; several here say positively that he is gone
+towards Lyons. The post goes to-morrow early. You
+probably get two or three of my letters together, for we
+have now no regular post-day, and I am often quartered
+at a distance. I do not know when the mail leaves head-quarters,
+and by wishing to send you the last news, I
+may miss the post altogether.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, St. Lys, March 27th, 1814.</em>—To-day,
+Sunday, we make a halt here, which most of the army
+is very much in need of. This is in order to enable
+Lord Wellington to make arrangements and reconnoitre,
+&amp;c. Four divisions are in our front, and General Hill on
+our right. Nothing has been done to-day but the driving
+in of some French picquets on this side of a little
+stream about two leagues from hence, and half-way to
+Toulouse, and we are now placed on that stream. There
+seemed to be but little firing. I saw it from the top of
+the tower of the church here, but it was soon over.
+From the same place the view all around was very extensive
+and magnificent; Toulouse was plainly visible,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_456">[Pg 456]</span>
+and much of the country beyond, together with a number
+of villages, chateaux, &amp;c., in the large plain through which
+the Garonne takes its circular course from the Pyrenees.
+The snowy summits of the latter closed the prospect with
+their heads in the clouds.</p>
+
+<p>Having had some trouble to mount to this gallery
+round the church, by means of the bells and their scaffolding,
+for there was no ladder, I was up there for two
+hours with my glass, in a tolerably clear and fine day.
+Of the importance of the latter you have no idea. Yesterday
+was entirely rainy, and our road was, perhaps, as
+bad as any we have ever passed with artillery, and that is
+saying much. The troops were splashed up to their
+caps, and hundreds were walking barefoot in the clay up
+to the calves of their legs for about five miles, whilst the
+best of the road was that like to Hounslow in the worst
+season after a thaw. Lord Wellington said, the French,
+after consultation, had determined that this road was not
+passable for their artillery, but by means of lighter carriages
+and better horses, five brigades of our guns have
+got over this difficulty.</p>
+
+<p>To give you a notion of it, I may mention that Lord
+Wellington’s barouche was three hours stuck fast in it
+at one place; one hind wheel up to the axle, the other
+in the air. No one was in it except General Alava, who
+was unwell. I left them endeavouring to move it by
+means of four artillery horses, in addition to his own six
+mules, but in vain; six oxen in addition at last got it
+clear. Lord Wellington is gone to-day round by Plaisance
+to the right, to General Hill on the St. Gaudens’
+road, as that division is now approaching near us. I am
+always afraid of some accident in these parties in an
+enemy’s country, for there is generally no escort—only a
+few officers and two or three orderlies at the most.</p>
+
+<p>In a Toulouse paper of the 22nd, which I saw yesterday,
+I was amused with observing, among other articles—“Bordeaux,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_457">[Pg 457]</span>
+12th March. By accounts from
+this place troops without number are pouring through
+to join the grand army under the Duke of Dalmatia.
+The disposition of the people is excellent.” Then again,
+“March 15th. The prefect is taking measures for a
+number of improvements in the different communes.”
+These lies and frauds are curious. We also notice,
+that in publishing Soult’s proclamations in the Paris
+papers, in which he calls Lord Wellington the commander
+of brigands, the introductory part relating to
+the battle of Orthes is omitted altogether. It does not
+appear that any battle has taken place at all. We hope
+the silence as to Schwartzenburg means as much, and
+that the truth will be a set-off to any check given to St.
+Priest.</p>
+
+<p>Bonaparte’s movements to Rheims and Chalons we
+cannot here comprehend. Many of the people here
+talk such bad French that I am often taken for a
+Frenchman, and my patron here told me that I need
+not be afraid to own it, for he was a Royalist, and always
+had been so. His simplicity yesterday provoked me
+excessively. I gave him some of my old silver spoons
+to take care of. Thinking all soldiers and followers of
+an army virtuous and honest, he left the spoons, with a
+loaf, in his kitchen, and left his door open, to let every one
+in who chose. On my return, his loaf and my spoons were
+gone. This vexed me excessively, but redress was in vain.</p>
+
+<p><em>Seisses, 28th March.</em>—At daybreak this morning head-quarters
+moved to this place, most of us, in my opinion,
+fully expecting to be in Toulouse before night. We
+arrived here, within a league of the Garonne, by eight
+o’clock, when, to our great mortification, the part of the
+second division which had left this village at ten last
+night was just returning here again after daylight, owing
+to the bridge of boats having been too short, and the
+troops therefore unable to pass the river.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_458">[Pg 458]</span></p>
+
+<p>This is most vexatious, for the immediate passage of
+the Garonne without a halt, and triumphant entry into
+Toulouse would have been an exploit worthy of our
+General. With five more pontoons the whole would
+have been effected, and, most probably, with little loss.
+In front of Toulouse the enemy had been left quiet, and
+pressed but little; the grand movement was to have been
+on the right to the banks of the river near Portet. Just
+below where the Arrige and the Garonne unite, a league
+above Toulouse, the bridge was to have been laid in the
+night, and half the army over or ready to pass by daylight.
+The width of the river was supposed to be about
+one hundred and forty yards, or four hundred and fifty
+feet, the stream strong; for this we were prepared. The
+boats were in the river, the cables, I believe, fixed, and
+every precaution taken for secrecy, when the discovery
+was made that five more pontoons would be necessary,
+as the river was twenty yards, or about eighty feet wider.
+The boats were all withdrawn, and the troops all in
+their way to head-quarters again before daylight; but
+it was a <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">grand coup manqué</i>. Apparently there must
+have been great inadvertence somewhere, though it may
+have been that no measurement was allowed, or even
+close observations, for fear of exciting suspicion.</p>
+
+<p>I think it will be a triumph to E——, though I am
+sure he will not feel it as such. He told Lord Wellington
+at St. Jean de Luz that, in consequence of some
+order of his, the pontoon train would be rendered imperfect,
+and that if the army met with a wide river it would
+be stopped. Thus it has happened, and Lord Wellington,
+though in general so much a gainer by his
+decision and resources in getting rid of difficulties, has
+for once suffered for not attending to the counsel of his
+more steady and regularly-bred scientific advisers.</p>
+
+<p>As the troops were not yet ordered out of the town,
+and were in possession of the houses, we remained for<span class="pagenum" id="Page_459">[Pg 459]</span>
+some hours with our baggage standing loaded, until our
+billets were settled. Most part of this time I spent in
+surveying the immense plain covered with farms, villas,
+villages, towns, and chateaux, in the neighbourhood of
+Toulouse, as well as the town itself. The number of
+apparently splendid mansions was considerable, some
+belonging to merchants of Toulouse; some to the old
+nobles who had not emigrated; some to the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">nouveaux
+riches</i> of the Revolution and Bonaparte. The latter were
+much abused, the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">fournisseurs</i> of the army, the intendents
+or tax-gatherers, &amp;c. I believe there was much
+fraud in the management of the collection of contributions;
+and of late, particularly, much more was collected
+under the pretence of the necessities of the army, and to
+provision Bayonne, than ever reached its destination;
+and being but ill paid regularly, the managers took the
+liberty of paying themselves well irregularly.</p>
+
+<p>Murillo’s corps has plundered again of late, and was
+guilty of some excesses last night. One man was caught
+in the fact, stealing wine, and brought forward. Lord
+Wellington had him shot in the most impressive manner
+this morning, before all the corps, after a solemn admonition,
+and much parade. The man, it is said, appeared
+absolutely dead from fear before a musquet was fired.
+He was unluckily one of the least culpable, for he had
+only taken away a bottle of wine by force; but he was
+caught in the fact, and suffered for the sake of example—as
+the least guilty in reality often do, from the most
+guilty being also the most knowing.</p>
+
+<p>Lord Wellington has not yet returned; he must now
+exert his wits, to cure this mishap, which will not, in my
+opinion, put him in the best of humours.</p>
+
+<p>The Pyrenees were to-day perfectly clear, and very
+striking. An immense snowy barrier almost entirely
+white, with scarcely any bare rock visible. They are
+not by any means so picturesque as the Alps. They<span class="pagenum" id="Page_460">[Pg 460]</span>
+form a large mass, without much variety of form and
+character; and have not that contrast of pointed, craggy,
+fancifully-shaped rocks, rounded lower hills covered
+with verdure, and fine forest scenery, which is seen in
+Switzerland.</p>
+
+<p>Two of the medical officers and one of the 42nd of the
+sixth division, taken at Hagenau, have escaped and come
+into us, but plundered of everything. The French
+marched them seven or eight leagues a-day, nearly thirty
+miles; and the one I spoke to had been concealed four
+days after his escape with scarcely anything to eat, until
+he had an opportunity of joining our corps under General
+Hill.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Seisses, March 31st, 1814.</em>—Our disappointment
+in crossing the river on the 28th has kept us
+here ever since: and the halt has given me employment,
+which has prevented my writing to you. As soon as we
+become quiet, I am set to work in order to prevent all
+arrears, and to let punishment follow the offence as fast
+as possible.</p>
+
+<p>Our General has spent his mornings in riding all over
+the country to reconnoitre; and he dispatches all his
+other multitude of business at odd hours and times.
+The new plan was at last resolved upon, and last night
+the execution of it commenced. The divisions on this
+side Toulouse are pushed in close to the suburbs of St.
+Cyprien, near which the French have been for some days
+most busily at work, fortifying themselves to defend the
+bridge. Finding the river so wide below the junction
+with the Arrige at Portet, General Hill (with great difficulty
+owing to the rapidity of the Garonne, caused by
+the last two days’ continual rain) succeeded at last, in
+pursuance of his orders, in fixing his pontoons across that
+river above the junction with the Arrige; and having
+been nearly all night at work, began to cross about four
+o’clock this morning, and has sent word that he is over.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_461">[Pg 461]</span>
+A ridge of high land forms a sort of tongue between the
+two rivers. This he is to take post upon immediately,
+and march off a corps as rapidly as possible, about three
+leagues, to a bridge over the Arrige, which he is to surprise
+and preserve if possible, and defend, thus fixing
+himself securely between the two rivers, preparatory to
+further movements of the rest of the army. The Spaniards
+under Murillo crossed with General Hill.
+General Frere’s Spaniards move into the ground which
+General Hill leaves.</p>
+
+<p>I was upon the church-tower early this morning, and
+saw the Spanish column moving all along the plain,
+headed by some of our heavy dragoons; the fog on the
+river prevented my seeing more. On descending, I
+found Lord Wellington and all his suite, just about to
+be off, when the arrival of an English mail to the 16th,
+stopped him. By this we have your very bad news from
+Holland, and many private letters accounting for the
+failure. All here are open-mouthed at the reported consequences;
+namely, that the reinforcements intended for
+Lord Wellington are going to Holland. This is worse
+than the defeat. Very little was ever expected here
+from that army from various causes; it was always considered
+as so many men quite thrown away, as regards
+the main cause. I thought them, latterly, worse than
+inefficient, after they had once given the Dutch an opportunity
+of arming, by clearing their country, for they
+have the effect of preventing exertion on the part of the
+Dutch. The moment they had cleared Holland they
+should, in my opinion, have been sent to us, and thus by
+a sense of pressing danger, ought to have roused the
+sleepy heavy Dutchmen to do something for themselves
+when once well in the scrape, getting only arms and
+artillery and stores from England.</p>
+
+<p>By the exchange of prisoners, the officers so much
+wanted by the French, whom Lord Wellington has taken<span class="pagenum" id="Page_462">[Pg 462]</span>
+here, will get back again by these losses in Holland,
+another way in which that army has done more harm
+than good. It would have been better to leave our
+people prisoners than to release French regular officers at
+this moment, for their value in the newly-raised corps is
+immense, and considerably beyond that of ours to
+England. Besides the numbers in the town would have
+hastened its surrender, or compelled the governor to send
+them out without exchange.</p>
+
+<p>This is, however, reasoning upon general principles,
+and not upon personal feelings as to the officers taken:
+I do think, however, that this exchange was permitting
+humanity to have more weight than policy. There seem
+to have been much blundering and confusion in the execution
+of our attack, and from what I can hear the plan
+was allowed to fail just when the difficulties were nearly
+all over. It is always to be regretted when our people
+are ordered to run their heads against stone walls and
+heavy guns, and that even here, for I think the French
+seem to understand that work best, and we lose more in
+one of these affairs than we do in gaining a great battle
+in the fair field, where the French cannot be brought now
+to stand against us. On this ground, I feel a little
+anxious, even as to Toulouse, supposing the French to
+remain firm, which is doubtful, and still more as to
+Bayonne.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. C—— and a commissariat officer arrived here
+yesterday from Bordeaux: the accounts they bring are
+bad enough. The National Guard are disarmed; no
+arming of any consequence going on; no efficient
+English naval force has arrived; and the people, though
+they shout for the King at the opera, &amp;c., are all in a
+terrible fright lest the French should return, since we
+have so small a force there; and, according to report,
+many repent of what they have done.</p>
+
+<p>The Duke d’Angoulême does not appear to me to be<span class="pagenum" id="Page_463">[Pg 463]</span>
+made of stuff to gain a kingdom, though he would have
+kept one and been popular, from his amiable qualities.
+He has committed many blunders, I am told, and the
+white cockade gentry, like the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">emigrés</i> of old, amuse
+themselves with inventing lies concerning Bonaparte
+and his armies, which the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">maire</i> of Bordeaux publishes
+in a bulletin, which Bonaparte’s bulletins, lying as they
+are, effectually and satisfactorily contradict the next day.</p>
+
+<p>The <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">maire</i> is becoming daily more unpopular. We
+have an account of Augereau having been defeated—which
+I hope rests upon better foundations; as well as
+private accounts from Paris of the great reduction of
+Bonaparte’s forces by his various rapid marches, continual
+fighting, and desertion. Almost the only town in
+this country, excepting Bordeaux, which has been active
+in the Royal cause is Bagnières, which has proclaimed
+the king; no troops of either army have passed that
+way.</p>
+
+<p>The rest of the population in our rear are in general
+quietly waiting the event, and are now with a very few
+exceptions only on our side, because they think they see
+an end to the war quicker that way. But I am sure,
+from personal observation, that let Bonaparte be successful
+a little, and Lord Wellington be compelled to
+retreat, and let them only see the same prospect of peace
+by Bonaparte’s means, and three-fourths of the population
+would all be against us again.</p>
+
+<p>The sulky <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">maires</i>, and other public functionaries, now
+all submission, would then become active enemies, and
+all the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">pensionnaires</i> and <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">douaniers</i> and national landholders
+who are now really frightened to death, would be
+roused into activity. This is a picture, however, which
+I hope never to see realized; and if Toulouse and Lyons
+can be induced to enter into a common cause with Bordeaux,
+the events will, it is to be hoped, be far different.
+Had I the Duke d’Angoulême’s stake to play for, I<span class="pagenum" id="Page_464">[Pg 464]</span>
+should somehow have raised a force before this at Bordeaux,
+and should certainly have been over here post to
+enter Toulouse, and have paraded through Pau, Tarbes,
+&amp;c., in the way, and tried to do something.</p>
+
+<p>The only great hit he has hitherto made is to get the
+new prefect of the department des Landes to publish and
+circulate his proclamations, and sign them: this certainly
+is a beginning, and it is said that some have
+found their way into Toulouse. The <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">maire</i> of Galan,
+who was really in my opinion a Royalist, pointing to his
+head, asked me, speaking of the Duke d’Angoulême,
+whether “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">il y voit quelque chose là?</i>” of which he seemed
+to have doubts. The lower, and older population in the
+villages certainly, though knowing nothing of the Bourbons,
+have a sort of vague wish for old times again, and
+therefore were friendly. The middling classes are not
+by any means so favourably disposed.</p>
+
+<p>You have no conception of my obligation to you for
+sending the newspapers so regularly, and getting them
+forwarded in Lord Wellington’s bag. On the march in
+our present state, by this means I have my letters and
+papers sometimes almost a week before any one else; for
+the public bag has been lately obliged to come up, for
+want of transport, in a bullock-car, with one weak soldier
+of the guides as a guard. When we are stationary I
+sometimes suffer by this plan, for single papers are got
+a-day or two later than my letter, but now I am a great
+gainer, and my newspapers are in the greatest request.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Seisses, April 1st, 1814.</em>—Here we are
+still in front of “the great big town where the French
+are,” as the Irishmen call Toulouse. The French
+yesterday moved about four divisions out of Toulouse
+after General Hill’s movement, and in the evening went
+back again into the town. This I believe made Lord
+Wellington suspect that Soult intended to try an attack
+upon the columns of the British who remained in front<span class="pagenum" id="Page_465">[Pg 465]</span>
+of the town on this side, and he would have wished, in
+my opinion, for nothing better, as we had a rising
+ground commanding the roads where they must make
+their debouches, and cannon ready placed to give them a
+warm reception instantly. In consequence of this expectation,
+Lord Wellington and his staff were off early to
+the front; about eleven o’clock, finding all quiet, they
+returned, and we remained <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">in statu quo</i> for the day.</p>
+
+<p>I never expected that anything would be done if it
+depended on the French, for their game seems to be
+merely to endeavour to keep us on this side of the river,
+and to leave us to get over the difficulties as we can, and
+not to run any hazards by molesting us, or giving us
+even a fair chance by an attack on their posts. It is said
+that after all it is found that General Hill’s road would
+lead us so much round, and that the roads round that
+way to Toulouse would be so bad, that the plan mentioned
+in my letter under date of the 31st is abandoned;
+that in consequence General Hill will be ordered to
+return across the river to-night, and that the pontoons
+will be taken up afterwards, and an attempt made to
+place them lower down the river at last, and below
+Toulouse, which, if it succeeds, will place us at once upon
+the main good road to Bordeaux. Time will show
+whether this information of mine is correct. If this plan
+be practicable, it will be far better than the other. In
+truth the Garonne is a formidable barrier just now, when
+there are no fords.</p>
+
+<p>The disappointment of not having Graham’s army
+here is very great, much worse so if the reinforcements
+intended for us should go that way. So much did Lord
+Dalhousie with his weak divisions at Bordeaux expect
+General Graham’s army, that I am told he has twice sent
+to the coast in expectation of their arrival, together with
+a naval expedition, on a report of some distant sails
+being seen. This last <cite>Gazette</cite> is a woeful contrast!<span class="pagenum" id="Page_466">[Pg 466]</span>
+The importance of that ten thousand men at Bordeaux
+is immense, and all agree that the country northwards
+would be ready to come forward and join us if we were
+stronger and dared advance. The weak state of our
+force at Bordeaux alarms them all, and keeps everything
+back; a naval force to co-operate and to assist against
+the castle of Blaye, was also expected to be ready the
+moment the news of our arrival at Bordeaux was
+received, as it must have been such a probable event.
+As it is Lord Dalhousie was about to make some attempt,
+I understand, to take a position across the Garonne,
+between the Dordogne and the Garonne.</p>
+
+<p>I have just been told another piece of news—unpleasant
+if it be true. It is said that the Duke d’Angoulême’s
+new <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Préfet des Landes</i> ordered the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">maire</i> of St. Sever to
+proclaim Louis XVIII., and that the old maire, a prudent
+sly fellow, who has made much money in the Revolution,
+declined to do so unless by Lord Wellington’s orders,
+and wrote to Lord Wellington to know if he was obliged
+to do what he was desired. It is said that Lord Wellington
+replied “No,” and suspended the new préfet for
+giving the order. This is a most awkward state of
+things; each town, each <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">maire</i>, is allowed thus to take
+this strong step if they please, but there is to be no influence
+used, so that all prudent people naturally enough
+will remain quiet and do nothing, and the desperately
+zealous alone will act; yet so long as the conferences
+remain in existence, this cannot be otherwise.</p>
+
+<p>Some more Spaniards are ordered up whom we are to
+feed also; how far they will come I know not. The siege
+of Bayonne is, it is understood, at last determined upon
+in earnest; as yet only preparation of fascines, &amp;c., have
+been made. I am told now, that the horses of the brigades
+of artillery of General Hope’s column, are sent
+down to Renteria to bring up the heavy battery train and
+siege stores. The Guards begin to talk of more “bloody<span class="pagenum" id="Page_467">[Pg 467]</span>
+work,” but I sincerely hope not another Bergen-op-Zoom!
+That left column once released, would set us quite at ease
+here. Just now, our necessarily-divided army cannot be
+so efficient as from its numbers compared with the French
+it might be presumed to be.</p>
+
+<p>For fear of being too late for the post, I shall now seal
+up my three letters in one packet and send it off.</p>
+
+<p>In appearance, the size of Toulouse is very considerable,
+particularly its length. It seems much larger than
+Bristol; whether really so or not we have not just now
+conveniently the means of ascertaining.</p>
+
+<p>All who come from Bordeaux are in ecstasies with the
+place and the life there. It seems everything a bachelor
+officer with a little money could wish for—everything to
+be had, and everything (except maps now) very cheap.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Grenade, April 5th, 1814.</em>—In pursuance
+of the change of plans as to the passage of this
+formidable river, the Garonne, in the face of thirty thousand
+men, under the command of Marshal Soult, we very
+suddenly moved on Sunday morning, the 3rd, to Colomiers,
+a poor dirty village on the high road from Auch
+to Toulouse. The pontoons had been previously moved
+in the night from the neighbourhood of Carbonne, where
+they had been previously fixed, and where General Hill
+had passed over to the vicinity of Grenade. On the night
+of the 4th, about eight or nine o’clock, the whole army,
+excepting General Hill’s columns, were put in motion
+towards Grenade, the pontoons were launched in the
+river, the bridge successfully formed during the night,
+and about ten thousand men passed over without resistance
+by daybreak. It rained furiously almost all the
+night, and a failure was in consequence much apprehended
+by many, from the increased rapidity and breadth
+of the current of the river. Hitherto all has gone on
+well. General Hill’s corps remained in front of the
+suburbs and bridge of St. Cyprien near Toulouse.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_468">[Pg 468]</span></p>
+
+<p>Lord Wellington and his staff were all off about two
+or three o’clock in the morning, or rather night, for the
+river side near the bridge, and passed over early in the
+morning. Lord Wellington reconnoitred yesterday on
+the right bank to within about five or six miles of
+Toulouse, and did not return here until after dark. Civil
+departments and baggage were ordered to move across
+the country to Corn Barieu, a poor dirty place on the
+cross-road to Grenade, at daylight, and there to remain
+loaded till further orders. It was only four miles of bad
+road, and we were there about half-past six. I conclude
+we were kept at that point so that we might be secure,
+and away from the high road out of Toulouse, in case of
+accidents, and at the same time ready to go into Toulouse,
+in case the French should abandon the town and bridge
+on hearing of our passage of the river; whilst, on the
+other hand, if they remained fast, we were ready to come
+on here.</p>
+
+<p>The poor mules remained loaded until near two o’clock
+before they were ordered on, and afterwards fell in with
+such columns of baggage, cavalry, and troops, particularly
+Spaniards, all converging to the bridge, that they did not
+arrive here until about seven or eight o’clock at night,
+having had to pass a deep cross country, by a clayey unformed
+road, in places sinking up to the middle, for the
+night’s rain and quantity of animals passing had quite
+cut it up. I left the printing-press and Mr. S——’s
+carriage fast in the mud, and many a load upset; at last
+I believe all arrived safe.</p>
+
+<p>Whilst we were waiting in suspense, as I dare not
+again go much to the front, Dr. M’Gregor and several
+other civilians and I passed our time pleasantly enough.
+There was a chateau on a hill close to us, which commanded
+all the country, and particularly Toulouse. To
+that we bent our steps, and finding a young lad, son of
+the owner, in the house, we got our horses into the stable,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_469">[Pg 469]</span>
+bought corn for them, and from the Doctor’s canteen
+made a good breakfast, and then posted ourselves with
+our glasses to see what was going on. Had there been
+any fight we should have commanded the whole scene
+beautifully. As it was, we only traced our columns of
+baggage, Spaniards, and cavalry across the country, in
+two lines of about six or seven miles’ length, all moving
+gradually to the bridge. We also saw some large fires in
+Toulouse, but have not yet learnt whether they were
+anything in particular. About half-past one we set out
+again, and fought our way through mud and clay and
+baggage and Spaniards for about ten miles; and I am
+now again in a civilized home, but with rather a forward
+tradesman, who gave me a roast fowl for supper, but took
+his place and had his full share with me. It is odd
+enough that a man of his description, in a large good
+house, stables, and three or four horses, should boast, as
+he does, that he can talk French, and that his daughter
+of eight years old has learnt to talk French, and can
+speak and understand it a little when she chooses. Their
+patois I can scarcely make out, certainly, not so well as
+Spanish or Portuguese.</p>
+
+<p>The country is all very rich and populous, and covered
+with villages and chateaux. The former are generally
+in evident decay; the latter are large and showy on the
+outside, but for the most part old, dirty, out of repair,
+and nearly unfurnished inside, with none of the comforts
+even of a cit’s villa, and still less of a great man’s house
+in England. At the same time one cannot but feel how
+much of what we in England think necessaries are mere
+superfluity. One cause of their present appearance in
+part may be, that the owners generally live from seven to
+ten months in the year in the great towns, Toulouse in
+particular, and only spend September and October in their
+chateaux to see to the harvests, so that they, somewhat
+like the Portuguese lords, when they do come, bring<span class="pagenum" id="Page_470">[Pg 470]</span>
+nearly all their furniture and comforts with them. By
+this means, luckily, we have not done these chateaux
+much damage. The young man whom we found in the
+chateau near Corn Barieu, had been sent out just before
+we arrived, to see what was going on, and to protect the
+place. He had not been able to hold any communication
+with his friends in Toulouse since, and I dare say, as I
+told him, they were in a terrible fright, and thought the
+Spaniards had roasted and eaten him up.</p>
+
+<p>It unfortunately rained again all last night. This has
+swelled the river, and alarmed us a little, for there are at
+times such floods here that our bridge would not stand
+them, and we are now half on each side. This was also
+very unlucky for the troops, many of whom must have
+bivouacked without their tents and baggage. I have
+hitherto heard of no ill consequences, and it is thought
+that the French must either come out and fight us immediately,
+or be off and leave us at our ease for a short time
+to try and refit and get shoes for our poor barefooted
+soldiers. In the meantime we are here with no other
+orders than to be ready packed to march at ten o’clock,
+but not loaded. It is now half-past ten, and I have been
+quietly writing this, and four letters on business, since
+breakfast.</p>
+
+<p>When last at Seisses I met at Lord Wellington’s
+Major M——, of the 53rd, the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">ci-devant</i> prisoner and
+French squire, whom I mentioned before in my letters.
+He was at Toulouse when we came by his former house,
+and he took the opportunity of our pontoon bridge at
+Carbonne to come over to us, for to go out he was compelled.</p>
+
+<p>I do not quite understand his own story, so as to make
+his conduct correct. He was always on a sort of parole
+in Languedoc and Gascony. On our coming near Toulouse
+he was told that he must retire towards Montpelier.
+He asked delay on the plea of health, got a day, and was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_471">[Pg 471]</span>
+then ordered to move post by Carcassonne. He went two
+stages, then turned to the right, came over to us, and now
+rides about, a strange figure, in a new handsome 53rd
+uniform, and a great French cocked hat, with his English
+loop and button. He is, moreover, a round broken-backed
+country-squire volunteer sort of gentleman, on a
+high white tumble-down French nag. He was of course
+full of information and conversation, but I rather doubted
+the accuracy of the former.</p>
+
+<p>He told us that Bonaparte was making for Metz, giving
+up Paris; and that he intended to relieve his garrisons in
+that direction even as far as Wesel, and then to try and
+bring the war to the frontier again. This would be
+giving up nearly all France, and putting himself between
+the Crown Prince at Liege and the Allies near Paris;
+whereas, if compelled to leave Paris, his line, in my
+opinion, must be to fall back towards Lyons, and to endeavour
+to unite in that direction with Augereau, and
+even with Soult, who will very likely fall back that way
+also. If Bonaparte were to go to Metz, Lord Wellington
+said he thought then the Allies, on entering Paris, would
+probably let the King be proclaimed, and that he should
+not then despair of seeing Bonaparte a grand Guerilla
+chief on a large scale, fighting about for his existence,
+which he had never expected to happen in his lifetime.
+Major M—— also said that Soult’s plan was, if obliged
+to give up Toulouse, to go towards the Black Mountains,
+and retreat by way of Carcassonne, making his stand
+there in a country where our superior cavalry could not
+act. If he does this, I think half his men will desert,
+and the remainder be in jeopardy, unless Suchet brings
+him more assistance than is thought possible. Suchet is
+said to be withdrawing everything, and to be mustering
+all he can. Oh that we had your English reinforcements,
+and General Graham’s army! for our own real English
+army dwindles away very fast in this active service, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_472">[Pg 472]</span>
+ten thousand men may make all the difference in regard
+to the event. The 53rd regiment and the eighteen-pounders
+are, I hear, hutted at Tarbes, to try to reduce a
+small garrison at Lourdes. The Householders are also
+arrived, I believe, as far as Tarbes.</p>
+
+<p>On the 23rd of March, Caffarelli sent his orders to all
+the communes round Toulouse, for a considerable distance
+(about fifty communes), to send men to work at the fortifications
+in front of Toulouse. The numbers to be sent
+by requisition were very considerable; but we have rather
+disturbed the march of the larger half. He also called
+upon all the inhabitants to arm, and to make the town a
+second Saragoza.</p>
+
+<p>Major M—— says he was told that there was not the
+same motive. I understand they have been obliged to
+arm by compulsion, but it is supposed will do nothing.
+Some old French officers also came to Soult to offer to
+raise Guerillas corps in our rear. Major M—— said that
+their offers were to be accepted; but, except a few for
+plunder, I do not think, as yet, they will find many followers.
+Lord Wellington makes the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">maires</i> responsible
+for any disturbances in the rear, and threatens garrisons,
+as on the French plan, <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">garnissaires</i>, in case of a breach of
+order. To execute this duty the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">maires</i> are allowed to
+arm guards in their communes. All the communes
+around here were to have <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">garnissaires</i>, in case the workmen
+did not arrive—that is, soldiers to keep in their
+houses gratis.</p>
+
+<p><em>One o’clock, same day.</em>—Here we are still; and I hope
+shall not move to-day, unless to go into Toulouse, for
+there is a report that the French are moving off now, and
+that we have taken two cars of money. This I will not
+vouch for. What is more certain is, that our pontoon
+bridge is on its legs again by land, and moving towards
+Toulouse, to be laid down nearer the town, to make our
+communications shorter between the two parts of our<span class="pagenum" id="Page_473">[Pg 473]</span>
+army, on the right and left bank. This, it is to be
+feared, may draw head-quarters into some little dirty village
+near the bridge; and I should like to enjoy the
+tolerable clean brick room which I have to myself, and a
+little stable with some hay for my horses, for one day, if
+it suits our plans.</p>
+
+<p>At first I was surprised at Major M——’s boldness,
+and, as it appeared to me, folly, in going about in his
+uniform, in a way to do no good to anybody, and possible
+harm to himself. I have now heard that he has been
+divorced from his lady, and of course by the French
+law from his <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">château</i> and <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">terre</i> also, and that now he has
+nothing whatever to lose. He may as well make a merit
+of his love of England and the Bourbons. His daughter,
+about sixteen, is married, and the property goes with her.
+A party of five dragoons took yesterday a messenger
+from Montauban to Soult. It was known by eleven
+o’clock at Montauban that we had cut off the communications
+on the main road. The messenger was sent round
+a bye-road but was caught. His despatches were, it is
+reported, principally complaints that the people would
+not arm for the fight, and were not very material. I
+pitied the man. He was a respectable man of business
+in Montauban; but being told that unless he became a
+civic soldier he must be a regular, he put on his sword
+“by compulsion,” was sent to carry these letters, and
+thus fell into our hands. He says that it will be his ruin
+to send him to England as a prisoner; and I hope,
+though he is threatened with this, that Lord Wellington
+will soon release him. This is to be hoped, for I believe
+his story to be true, for the Préfet of Montauban is reported
+to be a most furious Bonapartist, and that he
+compels the people to take up arms in the cause, and
+even threatens their lives if they do not. All here profess
+great friendship for us, and I believe, at present, are
+sincere.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_474">[Pg 474]</span></p>
+
+<p><em>Six o’clock.</em>—About two o’clock I saw Lord Wellington
+come in, and the real news was, that all was quiet on
+both sides the river, but that the floods had carried away
+or sunk one pontoon, and that the bridge was impassable.
+It was just on the point of being moved higher when
+this happened. Just now, it is not safe to place it anywhere.
+We have only three divisions and three brigades
+of artillery across, and two or three, it is believed, of cavalry.
+The Spaniards are not over, as I supposed, but
+were to have gone over this morning. Unless Soult is
+an arrant coward, he must now attack these men, and it is
+to be feared that we shall have sharp work. A position,
+however, may be taken near the river, so as to enable our
+artillery on this side to assist. The river has fallen above
+a foot since morning, as it has hitherto been fine to-day,
+but I am sorry to say it has now begun to rain again,
+and it looks very much like another bad night. Rain
+upon the present river would be tremendous. A quarter
+of an hour after Lord Wellington came home from Toulouse,
+I met him going off again to cross the river; it is
+to be concluded, therefore, that something important had
+happened.</p>
+
+<p><em>6th of April, 9 o’clock at night. Head-Quarters at
+Grenade.</em>—My principal occupation to-day, when not
+engaged by business, has been to watch the river. It
+continued to fall many hours after the last rain had
+ceased, and began to rise at ten to-day, about fifteen
+hours after the last rain commenced, and five after it
+ceased; at this rate it will continue to rise until six or
+eight to-night, and then fall again; and if the weather
+relent a little, to-morrow, probably, our bridge will be
+restored.</p>
+
+<p>Marshal Soult has left our three divisions quite quiet
+on the other side. If he knows their numbers this is
+playing the game of a coward. At present he seems to
+think of nothing but fortifying Toulouse with ditches<span class="pagenum" id="Page_475">[Pg 475]</span>
+and works, and his men are hard at work. This makes
+the delay very unfortunate for us. It has, indeed, been
+so on every account, for we have to-day received accounts
+which appear to be believed, that twelve hundred French
+cavalry, cuirassiers, from Suchet’s army, joined yesterday;
+and that he is endeavouring to gain time; and the elements
+seem to favour his obtaining it.</p>
+
+<p>The only two events here to-day have been, first, the
+arrival of the pontoon which was lost and floated away.
+Lieutenant Reid, of the Engineers, galloped to Verdun,
+two leagues down the river, offered a reward of <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">cent francs</i>,
+or five pounds, to any inhabitants who would get boats
+and stop the pontoon and bring it ashore: the deserter
+was thus secured, and to-day brought back in triumph by
+a party of soldiers. The other arrival astonished us all.
+A troop of the Royal Horse Guards Blue arrived with
+drawn swords and a Captain’s guard escorting a carriage.
+Some said that it was the Duke d’Angoulême, some one
+great person, some another. One officer asked the Captain
+if it was King Ferdinand? This was a hoax. At
+last it was discovered to be a <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">maire</i> of a small commune
+near Tarbes, and his wife. The <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">maire</i> is supposed to
+have been endeavouring to favour a guerilla system, and
+exciting the people to arm. He was in consequence ordered
+to be sent to head-quarters. The Blues were in
+high condition; and Lord Wellington, when he was told
+of the French cuirassiers, said, “Well, then, we must
+have the Householders for these gentlemen, and see what
+they can make of them.”</p>
+
+<p>I must tell you two little anecdotes about the pontoon
+bridge. The French were very jealous of any attempt of
+the kind, and had cavalry videttes, &amp;c., all along their
+banks of the river. The engineer wished to measure the
+breadth of the river at the spot intended; and for this
+purpose got into conversation with the French vidette a
+long time, but had no opportunity. At last he pretended<span class="pagenum" id="Page_476">[Pg 476]</span>
+that the calls of nature were imperative. The Frenchman,
+out of decency, withdrew. The engineer popped
+out his sextant, took the angle, &amp;c., and was off.</p>
+
+<p>Lord Wellington himself, with two other officers went
+to the spot also to reconnoitre with his own eyes. Concealing
+his General’s hat with an oil-skin, he got into
+conversation with the French vidette, dismounted, got
+down to the water-side, looked all about him, saw all he
+wished, and came away. This was, in my opinion, risking
+too much; but no French soldier would have any
+idea of the commander of the Allied Forces going about
+thus with two attendants. Lord Wellington was yesterday
+over alone on foot, and went on upon a horse of
+General Cole’s, as horses could not pass. Even General
+P—— was a little uneasy, and sent about eight o’clock
+to know if he had come back safe. He returned about
+seven o’clock, when it was dusk. To-day he has a great
+dinner in honour of Badajoz.</p>
+
+<p><em>7th April, Grenade.</em>—We have at last a fine clear day,
+and warm. The river is falling rapidly. By this evening
+probably our bridge may be re-established, and to-morrow
+I conclude that we shall pass more troops and
+advance against Toulouse and the French marshal, who
+is digging and working away as usual. The French
+made several attempts to destroy our bridge before the
+floods did the business for them. They sent us down all
+their dead horses, several trees, &amp;c., and a large old boat,
+which struck a pontoon, and went down itself instead of
+the pontoon. They sent down also a sort of armed log
+stuck round with swords, and rolling round and round in
+the stream as it went along, like a great fish, in hopes
+that the swords would strike and cut the cable which
+holds the boats.</p>
+
+<p>Major M—— has just told me that he has had news
+from the interior of another defeat of Bonaparte at Arcis-sur-Aube,
+and of his having lost one hundred guns, &amp;c.,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_477">[Pg 477]</span>
+and being then manœuvring in the rear of the Allies.
+This seems probable. He has also an account of the departments
+in the west of France having all sent in to the
+Duke d’Angoulême at Bordeaux for orders; this is also
+probable, and that the Royalists gain ground fast. His
+accounts add in the postscript,—“The Allies entered
+Paris April 1st.” This ought to be, I think, from former
+accounts, and I hope it is so. The last <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Moniteur</i> we have
+of the 30th talks of Bonaparte’s return to Paris to cover
+the city. How he could then get there seems the difficulty.
+Lord Wellington also had yesterday a private
+letter from the interior, in which it is said, “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">un événement
+bien imprévu est arrivé à Paris</i>,” and no comment. He
+guesses it to be the flight of the Empress. You see
+what confused accounts we get of all late events!</p>
+
+<p><em>7th (6 o’clock.)</em>—In addition to the above we have now
+news that the Bourbons have been proclaimed at Paris,
+and that in the name of the Emperor of Austria the
+house of Napoleon has been declared to cease to reign.
+I must now seal up, for Lord Wellington has written his
+English letters to-day, Thursday, although Saturday is
+the usual day. In addition to this, I think, from many
+symptoms, that we shall move to-morrow.</p>
+
+<p>P.S.—The <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">maire</i> brought in with such a magnificent
+escort, is now quietly walking about here with his wife
+and no guard. The bridge is to be fixed nearly in the
+same place again to-night.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_478">[Pg 478]</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXVI">CHAPTER XXVI.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="fs80" style="margin-left: 2em; text-indent: -2em;">Uncertain Intelligence—Capture of Toulouse—Wellington at the Theatre—The
+“Liberator”—Ball at the Prefecture—The Feelings of the French—Soult
+and Suchet—Ball at the Capitole.</p>
+
+<p class="right fs80">
+<span style="padding-right: 2em">Head-quarters, Grenade,</span><br>
+April 10, 1814, 1 o’clock.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="no-indent"><span class="smcap">My dear M——</span>,
+</p>
+
+<p><span style="padding-left: 2em">Here</span> we are still, away from all that is going on,
+but expecting every moment an order to enter Toulouse.
+The day before yesterday the bridge was re-established
+(the 8th), and by one o’clock the Spaniards had all passed
+over. The order then came for a brigade of Portuguese
+artillery to do the same. They were passing when I
+went there, soon after one o’clock; and just as a gun was
+quitting the last boat to ascend the bank, down went the
+boat; the gun, however, run off safe, but two of the
+Portuguese pontoon-train sailors got a ducking, which
+was all the mischief except a delay of about two hours to
+fish up the pontoon, drag it on shore, turn it upside
+down, to clear out the water, and then launch it again,
+and refit the board.</p>
+
+<p>By four o’clock I left the remainder of the guns going
+over. The head-quarters of Lord Wellington remained
+at St. Jouy that night, and last night Lord Wellington
+has only pushed the troops on a little, to reconnoitre, and
+in the evening the 18th Hussars, under Colonel Vivian,
+had a brilliant affair. They charged the French cavalry
+on the high-road, broke them, sabred several, and took<span class="pagenum" id="Page_479">[Pg 479]</span>
+about seventy prisoners, with the loss of a few officers
+wounded, and, it is believed, only about six or eight men.
+Unluckily, Colonel Vivian received a ball in the arm,
+which, it is feared, will render amputation necessary.
+Yesterday (the 9th), the bridge was taken up very early,
+and ordered to be immediately fixed about four miles
+nearer the town of Toulouse, at a little place called
+Assaic. The light divisions were close to that point, on
+this side of the river, as a security in case of any attack
+on the second division, near St. Cyprien and the bridge
+of Toulouse. They were ordered to cross the river as
+soon as our pontoons were ready, and a movement was
+intended, and ordered yesterday.</p>
+
+<p>From some difficulties, or bad management, the bridge
+of boats was not ready until nearly three o’clock, when it
+was thought too late. Lord Wellington was more vexed,
+and in a greater state of anger, than he usually is when
+things go wrong, even without any good cause. He said
+that his whole plans for the day were frustrated and
+nothing could be done; and the light divisions were
+counter-ordered to remain where they were on this side
+the river, and head-quarters remained at St. Jouy.</p>
+
+<p>The French, it appeared, while still keeping a force to
+defend the bridge of Toulouse, had before this taken a
+strong position on the hills beyond the town, and had
+made there some strong works, upon which they were
+constantly busy. The last two days and nights their
+main body rested on the hills, bivouacking in this
+position, and in an uncomfortable state, hourly expecting
+an attack. This morning about seven it commenced:
+the firing was heavy for about two hours, until nine, and
+has continued partially since. As I dare not cross the
+river and go to the front, I went with my glass to the
+highest look-out here, and saw the French redoubt very
+plainly, firing away briskly: since that all has been
+silent here, and free from smoke. The stories of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_480">[Pg 480]</span>
+people here are that, with the loss of six thousand men, we
+have taken the redoubt and thirty-six pieces of ordnance.</p>
+
+<p>The former, from the direction of the fire, it is certain,
+is a lie, and perhaps the latter. As, however, we have
+now some sort of official news that the Allies are in Paris,
+and the Imperial Court at Orleans, and as there is no
+account of Bonaparte, the French here will probably not
+fight much; and if beaten, it is certain that many, nay
+thousands, will run home, and the army be much diminished.
+I suspect that Bonaparte will try to unite his
+corps and all the remains of corps near Paris, and Augereau’s
+from Lyons, and Marshal Soult’s and Suchet’s
+from Provence, towards Montpelier; but it is to be
+hoped that even regiments, and perhaps Marshals, will
+begin to desert, when it is found that Paris is taken, and
+the royal party proclaimed and gaining ground.</p>
+
+<p>We certainly are in a very odd state just now in
+France. Our military chest, Paymaster, Doctors, Commissaries,
+&amp;c., and nearly all our money, are in this place,
+which is altogether without troops; only about a dozen
+staff corps men, and about ten of the paymaster’s ordinary
+marching guard. The whole army is nearly four leagues
+in front, and our only protection is the good-will of the
+people, and the river. Yet we are told that there are
+French troops at Montauban, about four leagues off, and
+nothing between us except the river. All feel, notwithstanding,
+quite secure, and have no anxiety but to enter
+Toulouse.</p>
+
+<p>In the mean time Lord Dalhousie with a part of the
+seventh division has crossed, not only the Gironde, but
+the Dordogne, and we are told, is to take Fort Blaze
+by storm: I suppose his whole force is not above three
+thousand five hundred men. Bayonne has not yet been
+seriously attacked, nor do we hear of any very great
+distress in the town, which is surprising, considering the
+length of the blockade.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_481">[Pg 481]</span></p>
+
+<p>In the attack to-day, it is said that the third and
+sixth divisions were to form the right of the attack on
+the river, the fourth the centre, and the light and large
+body of Spaniards to make the flank movement on the
+left, to get on the hills and turn the French position,
+whilst the cavalry advance also in that direction, to be
+ready to take advantage of the enemy’s retreat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Five o’clock, same day.</em>—No one returned, and no
+news: and yet no firing heard, and no orders. I fear
+that the resistance has been greater than was expected,
+and begin to be fidgety and uneasy. The reports are
+now, that eight thousand English wounded, and fighting
+in the streets now going on. If such complete ignorance
+of the truth exists within ten miles of what is passing,
+you may judge how false reports circulate: we receive
+contradictory rumours every hour. All we know for
+certain is, that two hours ago Lord Wellington’s baggage
+remained at St. Jouy without orders; I despair,
+therefore, of seeing Toulouse to-day.</p>
+
+<p><em>Grenade, April 11th, 8 o’clock, morning.</em>—The firing
+continued all day yesterday, and until past eight at
+night, and began again at four this morning, and has
+continued to this time, but has now lessened. Several
+of our civilians returned home here last night. I understand
+our loss is very considerable. We drove the enemy
+from all the heights, but with difficulty. The Spaniards
+failed in the attack of a redoubt, were put to the rout
+completely, and, it is reported, would have lost their guns,
+which the French were within two or three hundred
+yards of, had not the Portuguese stepped in to their
+support, and enabled them to rally again.</p>
+
+<p>This is really too bad—my friend says the ground was
+covered with dead Spaniards, and that he saw but few
+French; this is generally the result of alarm and flight.
+The redoubt was taken, but not by the Spaniards, it is
+said; the fire close to Lord Wellington was most severe.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_482">[Pg 482]</span>
+Near the town the French fought very hard in the
+houses, particularly at some houses near the lock of the
+canal close to the river. We each occupied some of the
+houses, and fired continually; the French houses were
+loop-holed, and they had the best. We were obliged to
+bring guns, &amp;c.; and, unfortunately, the most successful
+shell fell into one of our own houses, and burnt out our
+own people. Among the killed, &amp;c., I hear, is Colonel
+Coghlan of the 61st, an excellent officer, Lieutenant-colonel
+Forbes, Captain Gordon, 10th Hussars. Colonel
+Fitzclarence is wounded in the thigh: he charged with
+his troops two French squadrons, he says, up a hill, beat
+them, but on the top was received by infantry: the first
+shot carried away part of his sword, the second hit him
+on the thigh, and they fell back. We were close to the
+town and to the bridge last night on all sides, and had
+moved our bridge up within two miles of the town. The
+French have barricaded the houses and streets, fixed
+swivels on the tops, lined the roofs with men, &amp;c., and
+seem determined to defend the town with desperation.
+An officer deserted yesterday, and says he will serve no
+longer under a man who acts like a madman, as Soult
+now does, in defending a town like Toulouse in such a
+manner.—It is madness.</p>
+
+<p>Four Spanish officers came in here yesterday, who had
+escaped from Italy through Switzerland, and had walked
+here. They seemed in great distress. We had no Commissary
+here: I therefore gave them eight pounds of
+bread and a dozen eggs, got them a quarter for the night,
+and advised them to stay here until this morning, and
+then proceed to head-quarters. One had served in
+Colonel Roche’s corps in Catalonia, and spoke English
+tolerably. Our delay here, and in taking the town, has
+alarmed the people very much. All who have relations
+and friends in Toulouse are terribly frightened. The
+officer who deserted says that many will do the same as<span class="pagenum" id="Page_483">[Pg 483]</span>
+soon as the business is over, and occasions arise. Captain
+O. K——, the French-English officer from Toulouse,
+who came over to the Duke d’Angoulême at St. Jean de
+Luz, arrived here yesterday from Bordeaux. He says,
+that things are going on well, especially since the news
+from Paris; that the Duke has now eighteen hundred
+men formed; and that French officers come in every
+day with fleur-de-lys embroidered on their Napoleon
+uniforms, and thus tender their services. O. K—— was
+here on his road to Aurillac, to Auvergne, &amp;c., where, he
+says, a party is formed and ready to rise. He must take
+care of his head, for he goes about talking very imprudently.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Toulouse, April 13th, 1814, Section 3,
+No. 676.</em>—To give you any notion of what we have all
+felt from the changes which the last thirty-six hours have
+produced, you must go back to my first sheet, and you
+will feel more as I did, by reading in succession what has
+occurred than by anything I can now write. I was
+about to destroy the first sheet, as much of it is now not
+worth the trouble of reading; but thought it would give
+you a better idea of the feelings, from day to day, of the
+army.</p>
+
+<p>An order came for civil departments to march, to cross
+the pontoons, and to proceed on the high road to Toulouse
+to a church only three miles from the town, and
+there halt and wait for orders. We were off in ecstasies,
+expecting all to dine in Toulouse, and that the French
+were off, and our men after them. Judge of our vexation,
+when, on arriving at the church, we were all turned
+back off the road, to a miserable village of about ten
+houses, called St. Albains; and were there to find
+quarters for the night, in places just quitted by the plundering
+Spaniards, and left nearly in the state in which
+the French left the houses in Spain as they passed.</p>
+
+<p>When we arrived, we found many of the Spaniards<span class="pagenum" id="Page_484">[Pg 484]</span>
+still in possession, and four of us disarmed and seized
+three of them in the act of plundering. The people were
+screaming in every direction, the houses abandoned, and
+the inhabitants just beginning to return to witness the
+mischief done. Everything had been ransacked—all the
+closets, &amp;c., broken open; the rags and remnants on the
+floor, mixed with hundreds of egg-shells, and the feathers
+of the plundered fowls, &amp;c. Much linen was
+carried off, the sheets and heavy articles in the yard; the
+tables were covered with broken dishes, bottles, bones,
+and twine; and the cellars with the wine-casks running.
+In about two hours we got possession of the quarters,
+and got the inhabitants in to clean them, and by five
+o’clock had divided the places among us. My whole
+baggage lost its road, and did not arrive at all—five mules
+and a horse loaded.</p>
+
+<p>You may conceive the disappointment and the vexation
+we experienced. Dr. M’Gregor said that our loss was
+terrible! He was just returned from collecting all the
+wounded in villages, and, by Lord Wellington’s desire,
+was hurrying every one possible instantly to the rear.
+They were passing all night in cars. The Spaniards
+were moaning and crying most desperately, and were to
+reach Fenoullet that night, Sole Jourdain the next, and
+then to be sent on further if necessary. The accommodations
+were very bad. The accounts from the town
+were that the French were continuing to barricade every
+house and loophole, and arming to defend themselves to
+the last.</p>
+
+<p>The army was said to be now much weakened; the
+Spaniards could not be depended upon; the reinforcements
+were not come up from England, and a story was
+going about and believed by many who ought to have
+known better, that we were out of ammunition, and
+could not use our artillery. You may conceive that I
+went (without my baggage and comforts), with this news,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_485">[Pg 485]</span>
+sorrowfully to bed, ordering my servant to be off at five
+in the morning in search of my stragglers.</p>
+
+<p>On the 12th, at 6 o’clock, I was up and wandering
+about alone, listening to an occasional heavy gun, seeing
+wounded men pass, and waiting for the return of my
+man. About eight I saw Henry returning alone, and
+was expecting more bad news, when he told me that the
+French were off, that we were to march for Toulouse
+directly, and that my baggage was all safe at a house a
+league off on the road; and that, therefore, he had
+ordered them to pack and be off with the rest. Think
+of our sensations on hearing of this welcome change!
+The last twenty-four hours had been among the most
+critical of the war, and now all was safe and right again.
+I found out the clergyman, Mr. B——, got a razor and
+a cup of tea, whilst my horse was getting ready, and
+was then off, to go round by head-quarters and to enter
+Toulouse with Lord Wellington. About eleven I arrived
+at the fortified entrance, and found, instead of the
+enemy behind the new works, the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">maire</i> of the town,
+almost all the officers of the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">garde urbaine</i>, a considerable
+number of national guard officers, deserters, &amp;c., and
+about two hundred smart but awkward men of the city
+guard, and a band of music, all with the white cockade,
+and a great crowd of citizens besides, all waiting with
+anxiety to receive Lord Wellington, and carry him in
+form to the mayoralty. Unluckily, from some mismanagement
+and mistake, he went in at another entrance,
+and passed on, almost unknown. Hearing this, I went
+to the mayoralty with General Packington’s aide-de-camp,
+and found it was so; and, therefore, we went back
+to inform the mayor officially, and to beg he would
+return to the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">maison commune</i>. He did so, though an
+immense crowd entered the mayoralty in form, and an
+introduction then took place, and Lord Wellington showed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_486">[Pg 486]</span>
+himself at the window, amidst the shouts and waving
+handkerchiefs and hats of every one.</p>
+
+<p>The procession then went with Lord Wellington to
+his quarters, the Prefêt’s palace, amidst the applause of
+the inhabitants all the way. Nothing could be more
+gratifying than his reception, and that, indeed, of all the
+English; the most respectable inhabitants, many of them,
+not only anxiously showing us the way to our billets, but
+offering their homes without any billets, or receiving us
+with a sincere welcome as soon as the paper was delivered.
+Lord Wellington announced a ball in the evening at the
+Prefecture, and left Marshal Beresford with three divisions
+and cavalry to follow Marshal Soult for the day.</p>
+
+<p>We thought nothing could make us happier, when at
+five o’clock in came Colonel Ponsonby from Bordeaux
+with the Paris news, which you know. He told us that
+the official accounts would arrive in an hour or two.
+Ponsonby came through Montauban: the French officer
+commanding there taking his word, and letting him pass.
+I had been, at Colonel Campbell’s request, examining
+General St. Hilaire and his servant. St. Hilaire was
+found, under suspicious circumstances, in the town, and
+was just put under arrest, and Campbell luckily asked me
+to dine with Lord Wellington, which I should have been
+very sorry to have missed.</p>
+
+<p>Just as we were sitting down to dinner, about forty of
+us, General Frere, and several Spaniards, General Picton,
+and Baron Alten, the principal French, &amp;c., in came
+Cooke with the despatches. The whole was out directly,
+champagne went round, and after dinner Lord Wellington
+gave “Louis XVIII.,” which was very cordially received
+with three times three, and white cockades were ordered
+for us to wear at the theatre in the evening. In the
+interim, however, General Alava got up, and with great
+warmth gave Lord Wellington’s health, as the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Liberador
+del’ Espagna</i>! Every one jumped up, and there was a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_487">[Pg 487]</span>
+sort of general exclamation from all the foreigners—French,
+Spanish, Portuguese, Germans, and all—<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">El
+Liberador d’Espagna! Liberador de Portugal! Le
+Liberateur de la France! Le Liberateur de l’Europe!</i>
+And this was followed, not by a regular three times
+three, but a cheering all in confusion for nearly ten
+minutes! Lord Wellington bowed, confused, and immediately
+called for coffee. He must have been not a little
+gratified with what had passed.</p>
+
+<p>We then all went to the play. The public were quite
+in the dark as to what had just arrived, but Lord Wellington
+was received in the stage-box (where he sat,
+supported by Generals Picton, Frere, and Alava, &amp;c., and
+also the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">maire</i>) with no little applause, I assure you. At
+the door the people would scarcely take the money from
+us; and in the opposite stage-box the French left the box
+themselves, and made room for us. We had the white
+cockades on the breast. The English officers in the house
+stared, and did not know what to make of it. Some
+thought it a foolish, giddy trick. In about ten minutes
+Lord Wellington turned his hat outwards to the front of
+the box: it was seen, and a shout ensued immediately.
+The play was “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Richard, oh mon Roi</i>,” which was fixed
+upon really before the news came. The “<em>Henri IV.</em>”
+was played, and then the new French constitution was
+read aloud from one of the boxes. The people most
+anxious, and in general pleased; in some things not. I
+think most of it very good, if the French can enjoy anything
+so like our own constitution, for such it is, under
+other names; but this is doubtful. The article worst
+received was that leaving all the sales of emigrant lands
+to stand good; and it does appear to me that, when, by
+means of paper, an estate had been bought for the price
+of a team of horses, an equitable arrangement would have
+been better, to be settled by Government Commissioners.
+This was followed by “God save the King,” which was
+received with great applause.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_488">[Pg 488]</span></p>
+
+<p>When the play was over, we adjourned to the ball at
+Lord Wellington’s. The only drawback was our meeting
+on the way the cars of the wounded in the streets,
+now moving to the excellent hospitals here. This on
+consideration was also a satisfaction, for many lives will
+be saved by the wounded being brought here, instead of
+being sent to rear. You will now guess what we felt,
+and what a species of trance we were in.</p>
+
+<p>Here we are halted, whilst the news is sent on to
+Soult, with whom Marshal Beresford could not come up.
+The arrival of the news was at the moment we should
+have selected, except for the loss of life. For Lord Wellington’s
+character, however, even that was good, and
+eight hours sooner it would have been said that the late
+battle was no victory on our part, and that we should
+never have entered Toulouse, nor would the real sentiments
+of the town have been known.</p>
+
+<p>On inquiry, I find that the French loss has been
+great. General Taupin, one of my friends on La Rhüne,
+killed; General D’Armagnac, who took me, wounded;
+Harispe wounded, and here a prisoner; two other
+Generals wounded, &amp;c. Our loss fell principally, you will
+see, on the sixth division, and the Scotch Brigade in particular,
+and on the Spaniards. With regard to the latter,
+it is said that, upon the whole, the men for a long time
+behaved well, and that if General Frere had been as
+skilful as brave, and the officers better, they probably
+would have succeeded in their object, which certainly
+happened to be the most arduous duty of the day. They
+arrived on a sort of smooth glacis below the French
+works, under a fire admitted to be more severe than
+almost any since Albuera. Decision and skill and
+rapidity were then required. The men were kept too
+long in this fire—they broke—and then ran like sheep.
+One French regiment, it is said, drove more than four
+thousand of them, and in such a manner that they almost
+upset a Caçadore Portuguese regiment by main force.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_489">[Pg 489]</span>
+Three companies of the latter stood firm, beat back the
+Spaniards with their firelocks, laughed at them, enjoyed
+it, and completely checked the French. The redoubt was
+afterwards taken by our men, with great loss, as you will
+see. General Frere was in despair; he exerted himself to
+the utmost to rally his men; at last, by his exertions,
+assisted by Lord Wellington in person, one or two
+Spanish companies were formed, and became steady.
+Upon this the rest soon followed, and formed up also.
+The Spaniards had then a less arduous post assigned
+them; all went on well again, and I believe they behaved
+fairly enough. Their loss is considerable.</p>
+
+<p>This morning the whole conversation of the officers
+turns upon half-pay and starvation. With some, want of
+preferment; with others, promotion; and with those
+who have promotion, a determination to enjoy themselves
+now that all is over, and their dangers and sufferings
+past. As to my own prospects, they are so completely in
+the air, that my being never much of an architect for
+building in that element, I go quietly on with my work,
+and trust to the future.</p>
+
+<p>I shall defer any account of this place, &amp;c., for fear of
+being too late for the despatches, and now say adieu.</p>
+
+<p>Pray forward the enclosed two letters, which are from
+Madame de Baudré, my hostess at Mont de Marsan, who
+desired me to take care of them, and enclosed them in a
+letter of great professions of kindness for me, only
+exceeded by the most romantic ones for the Bourbons,
+and stating the great losses her family and connexions
+have lately sustained.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Toulouse, April 15th, 1814.</em>—Here we
+are quietly waiting the result of the communication of
+the late news to Marshal Soult, &amp;c. Cooke has come
+back from his head-quarters. The Marshal hesitates a
+little at present. He objects that he has no authentic
+documents from Bonaparte or the authorities whom he<span class="pagenum" id="Page_490">[Pg 490]</span>
+represents, and seems to have some doubts of the extent
+of the late news—or pretends to have. In short, as yet
+he takes no decided line, but it is said has applied for an
+armistice, probably wishing to gain time, to consult
+Suchet, &amp;c., and learn more of the state of things.</p>
+
+<p>Colonel Gordon was sent to him yesterday by Lord
+Wellington with a flag-of-truce; and it is understood
+that a positive answer and determination was required,
+and the armistice refused. Lord Wellington and all the
+officers yesterday attended Colonel Coghlan’s funeral in
+the morning, at the Temple, and went from thence in
+procession to the Protestant burial-ground out of the
+town.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening Lord Wellington gave another more
+magnificent ball at the Prefecture. It was too crowded
+to dance much, or well, but went off with great glee and
+general satisfaction. The ladies were very prettily
+dressed, in general, with the exception of a few of the
+high ugly bonnets, and there were several very pleasing-looking
+girls, and good dancers; but I do not think that
+in general the women are handsome here. I met with
+one very good-humoured chatty lady, about eighteen
+probably, who said she had only left her “Maman,” with
+whom she had always lived near Carcassonne, one month,
+and that, in that time she had witnessed many strange
+things:—the ravages of the French army, the passage of
+our army over the Garonne, a great battle (which was all
+visible quite plainly from the churches here, and even
+from the houses), the preparations for a siege, the retreat
+of the French, our triumphal entry, the change of the
+national government, and her own marriage.</p>
+
+<p>Captain Tovey, of the 20th, taken at Orthes, has
+escaped, and came in here yesterday. He would not give
+his parole, and made several attempts to be off. In consequence
+he was hardly treated, but is now safe. He
+met with every assistance from the French inhabitants;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_491">[Pg 491]</span>
+and at the last house he was in, the owner made him
+leave his peasant’s dress, and equipped him in a new suit,
+boots and all, French cut, to pass our lines, and go to
+head-quarters in. The villages through which he passed
+were proclaiming the King; and he was told that
+Soult’s house, near Carcassonne, had been destroyed by
+the mob.</p>
+
+<p>The French here discover the same volatile character
+as ever. <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Vive le Roi!</i> is shouted as vigorously as <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Vive
+l’Empereur!</i> was, I am told, a few years since, when
+Bonaparte made his then really popular entry, and gave
+his fêtes here, of which the most fulsome <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">procès verbal</i>
+still exists, signed by a maire-adjoint of the same name as
+the one who now signs the King’s proclamation, and I
+believe he is the same man—Lameluc.</p>
+
+<p>The inhabitants are all at work as usual, and very
+active. Fleurs-de-lys are now upon the skirts of the coats
+instead of eagles, and last night on the theatre dropscene.
+The busts of Bonaparte are smashed. The Capitolium
+ornaments are all undergoing a change. All the
+N.’s and B.’s, &amp;c., are effaced; and the workmen are now
+busily employed working round the cornice of the great
+staircase at the Capitol, changing all the alternate ornaments
+of a handsome cornice, every other one having
+been a <em>bee</em>. The English are everything, and in general
+estimation. To return the compliment of our wearing
+their white cockade on our black one, they now wear a
+black one on their white. The Spaniards are considered
+much as the Cossacks. The Capitolium is a very fine
+building, and as the splendid velvet and gold canopy, and
+the throne of Bonaparte at one end, had no decided
+emblems except that of authority generally, it has, after
+some doubts, been allowed to remain, and is not destroyed.
+We are to have a grand ball there, it is said,
+given on Sunday, by the inhabitants, if approved of, and
+we stay.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_492">[Pg 492]</span></p>
+
+<p>The theatre is about the size of the Haymarket Theatre;
+in width rather larger, but much deeper, and
+something in the improved shape of Covent Garden.
+The actors are tolerable. It is, however, inferior to the
+Bordeaux Theatre, and certainly to that of Lyons.</p>
+
+<p>The stone bridge over the Garonne, of seven arches, is
+very solid and substantial, wide, and upon the whole a
+splendid work, but not very graceful in its architecture.
+It is like Kew bridge in general shape, but in much
+heavier and substantial proportions.</p>
+
+<p>Several improvements have been some time since commenced
+in the city, but most of them are now at a stand,
+and have been so for some time. The cathedral of St.
+Etienne is an unfinished Gothic building, the great aisle
+being wanting to the new building. Instead of this, a
+large sort of Westminster Hall, of more ancient date,
+joins the cathedral on one side. This was originally
+intended to be pulled down or altered.</p>
+
+<p>There is some good tapestry and fine painted glass,
+which have escaped here, as in several other churches,
+the revolutionary destruction.</p>
+
+<p>The streets here are like the old parts of Paris, in
+general narrow, with a gutter in the middle; and the
+houses very good, but high shops below, and three stories
+of good rooms above. Several handsome hotels, with
+their great gates and small gardens. I am in a dirty
+place, but tolerably well off. The people are civil; I
+have good stabling, and one comfortable room, now it is
+cleaned.</p>
+
+<p>C—— gives rather a strange account of our Allies,
+but seems to think from their numbers, and the general
+feeling, that the business has at last been well-blundered
+through. There is a good story told of an incident
+which happened at the interview with Soult the other
+day. The substance of the news somehow got wind, and
+the army, whilst the Marshal was closeted with C——,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_493">[Pg 493]</span>
+gave a loud shout. The aide-de-camp went to inquire
+the cause, and returned saying, “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Ce n’est qu’un lièvre,
+Monseigneur</i>.” You ought to know that nothing causes
+a louder shout amongst troops than a hare crossing them.
+General M—— said the aide-de-camp should have been
+asked whether it was a Leipzig hare? If Soult does not
+declare himself, his army will, I think, desert him. I
+have now only just received a letter from you, of the
+22nd March, and papers.</p>
+
+<p>The French works at the entrance of the town, by the
+bridge (<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">tête de pont</i>), were very strong, and cost much in
+labour and materials, for no use. They were formed by
+close piles of timber like the caissons for the foundation
+of a bridge, filled up with earth, and the tops lined by
+barrels of earth, with a ditch and guns, &amp;c., placed, and
+the walls of the buildings round all loop-holed.</p>
+
+<p>I rode all over the positions of the battle yesterday, on
+the hills, and examined all the forts and the monuments
+of French industry and British courage. They were
+most formidable places to approach, for the hills formed
+a regular smooth glacis from the works at the top to the
+valley below, and half way down were long low heaps of
+sod, or turf, made up to protect the advanced sharp-shooters,
+who were lying safe on the ground, protected
+behind them, though the barrier was not above two feet
+high. A church and a house loop-holed, formed the sort
+of citadel to two of the forts or redoubts for musquetry,
+with the guns around the outside. The ditches were not
+so deep, nor the works so complete as those near Vera,
+where the French had more time, nor were the roads or
+mountains so difficult to ascend; but there was less
+shelter to approach, from the greater smoothness of the
+ground. Almost the only chance of safety was following
+some hollow roads, and a ride or two on the hills.</p>
+
+<p><em>16th (4 o’clock).</em>—I have just heard that the mail goes
+in half an hour. There is, therefore, little time to add to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_494">[Pg 494]</span>
+this. Colonel G—— is come back: Soult very civil, but
+high and proud in his manner, not yet satisfied, and so
+circumstanced, does not yet join the royal cause; the
+consequence is, I hear, that the troops move to-morrow
+morning, and I fear we shall do the same then or soon
+after. This is very provoking, for the general result
+seems clear, and all bloodshed now useless. I suspect
+the truth of the hare story, as it is said that Soult’s army
+is still ignorant of what has happened, at least, nearly so.
+Pains are now being taken to circulate the proclamations,
+news, &amp;c., in all directions round him, that the troops
+may learn the real state of things. I have to-day
+received the parcel from you, letter to 29th, and newspapers.
+Many thanks.</p>
+
+<p>The museum here contains but a bad second-rate set
+of pictures. About a hundred have been carried away
+during the month of March, no one knows where; but I
+presume they were the best of those which were portable
+from their size.</p>
+
+<p>There has been some difference of opinion, and confusion,
+we hear, at Montauban about royalty. Bayonne, it
+is to be feared, will abide by Soult, and do nothing yet.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Toulouse, April 18th, 1814, 5 o’clock.</em>—The
+troops moved as I told you yesterday, and the order
+was actually out for head-quarters to move to-day, when
+Count Gazan came in yesterday, about mid-day, to announce
+Marshal Soult’s submission, I believe, to the new
+order of things, and to arrange cantonments, &amp;c., for the
+two armies. He was closeted with General Murray a
+long time, and arrangements were made. He returned
+this morning to have the articles ratified, and to-night
+Lord G. Lennox has orders to be in readiness to go to
+England through Paris with the news. This last fact
+you will, perhaps, have heard, and probably before you
+get this.</p>
+
+<p>We had yesterday a grand <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Te Deum</i>, a most strange<span class="pagenum" id="Page_495">[Pg 495]</span>
+noisy military and religious ceremony attended with all
+the drums and military band; French civic soldiers, with
+their hats on, hallooing, shouting, singing, organs, &amp;c.,
+an immense crowd, and great cordiality. Unluckily,
+Gazan passed the door as the crowd was coming out; he
+was hooted, and saluted with “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">A bas Soult!</i>” &amp;c. This
+was a pity, but these changeable gentlemen are all in
+extremes. The troops are all going into cantonments
+immediately, and we shall for some time, I conclude, be
+quiet.</p>
+
+<p>The bad news from Bayonne is very unlucky. General
+Hope is, I hear, not dangerously wounded; and his aide-de-camp
+is gone to Bayonne to comfort him in his confinement,
+which I trust will now be soon over. The
+affair seems to have been a surprise in a great measure,
+and the chief loss was in regaining the church, &amp;c., of St.
+Etienne, which had been easily lost at first. Lord Dalhousie,
+on the other hand, seems to have gone on well
+alone, across the Dordogne.</p>
+
+<p>The arsenal is here on a very large scale, and would
+have been a very great acquisition, were the war to have
+gone on. The French carried away almost everything
+but materials, of which there is abundance of wheel
+carriages, &amp;c., and all the forges, &amp;c., in order.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Toulouse, April 23rd, 1814.</em>—Our life
+has now fallen into the old routine way again, and not
+only without daily events and little incidents to excite
+the mind, as has hitherto been the case, but also with
+the additional flatness and indifference, which cannot but
+be felt so immediately after a succession of such occurrences
+as have taken place within the last month. You
+will now have only the tittle-tattle of a country town (a
+French town certainly, and therefore somewhat novel),
+with which you must be satisfied. When Count Gazan
+came over here, to settle the terms of the armistice and
+line of demarcation, &amp;c., with Generals Murray and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_496">[Pg 496]</span>
+Wimpfen, he was so much engaged that I could not see
+him, as I wished to do, and he went very suddenly back
+again. The terms you will see in the papers.</p>
+
+<p>When all the Spanish garrisons are collected in France,
+this southern French army will again be respectable.
+Our troops are all moving into their cantonments along
+the Garonne on the left bank, except a few on this right
+bank, within the department of the Haute Garonne,
+which remains nearly all ours for the present. We have
+had a variety of strangers—the two Sir Charles Stewarts
+the first place. The Lisbon minister only stopped here
+one day on his way to Holland; the other Sir Charles,
+from Paris, came, as it is whispered here, to signify a
+wish on the part of the Allies that Lord Wellington
+would be the English commissioner at the general Congress.
+If so, and this seems very probable, I think he
+does well to refuse, for he cannot stand higher than he
+does. Were he to go, the other diplomatists would be
+surprised at his method of getting through business.
+We should certainly have a general peace many weeks
+sooner, if not months, than we are likely to have otherwise.</p>
+
+<p>I was walking with C—— in Lord Wellington’s
+garden about eight o’clock in the morning, three days
+since, when we saw a queer-looking figure approach, of
+whom we could make out nothing from the complete
+mixture of undress and magnificence—a pair of not clean
+overalls on, a common short pelisse, and a foraging cap,
+but the whole breast covered with stars and little crosses,
+and swords and orders of all sorts.</p>
+
+<p>I was not a little surprised at being introduced to Sir
+Charles Stewart. He had arrived at two in the morning
+and had gone to bed, without sending word to Lord
+Wellington, depending upon finding him at home at
+eight o’clock, when to his mortification he found that
+Lord Wellington had been since five in the morning out<span class="pagenum" id="Page_497">[Pg 497]</span>
+hunting; and when Sir Charles asked where he could go
+to meet him, the best information he could get was, that
+it was in a forest somewhere about eighteen miles distant,
+but no one knew exactly where, for the only persons
+who knew, about four in number, were out with him.
+Patience, therefore, was his only remedy; and instead of
+being off again in two hours as he said he had intended,
+he was obliged to stay long enough to give us a few
+anecdotes from the Allies. Two of Marshal Suchet’s
+aides-de-camp, and two or three French colonels from his
+army and that of Soult, have also been here.</p>
+
+<p>With one of Suchet’s aides-de-camp I had much conversation.
+He is a gentleman-like young man. He told
+me that Suchet was at Perpignan when he heard of
+Soult’s affair here; but that he then thought it prudent
+to hasten to Narbonne, and there he was when the news
+from Paris arrived. Had the war gone on, therefore, we
+should evidently have had a dance, as I expected, to the
+Mediterranean, on the road to Montpelier, after these
+united marshals, and should have required your utmost
+exertions and reinforcements from England; as it is, all
+is well. Suchet’s aide-de-camp said that he found very
+different feelings towards Soult in this country from what
+there were towards his master in the districts where he
+had commanded, and that he feared Soult had conducted
+himself very badly. The two marshals are, I understand,
+very jealous of each other. I asked him if Suchet had
+the least notion or expectation previously of what has
+happened. He said, “No: who could expect such a
+change in the minds of every one, and such a revolution
+in seven days’ time?” Then he laughed, and said, “At
+present we were <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">à la mode</i>;” and as I met him at the
+grand ball at the Capitole here again, he said, “There,
+you have nothing to do now but to make the most of
+your advantages, and amuse yourselves: all the beauties
+have now declared for you.”</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_498">[Pg 498]</span></p>
+
+<p>I rather pitied him, when at that meeting a number of
+pert apprentices, with immense white cockades on, and
+some still with Napoleon buttons and smart civic
+uniforms, were continually coming up to him, and reaching
+about up to his chin, asking him, pertly, “Oh! are
+you Soult’s aide-de-camp, or Suchet’s? Well, how do
+you like what is going on?” fellows, that a month ago
+would have almost cleaned his shoes had they been asked.
+Some of them even thought he was English, and in bad
+patois French, complimented him on the progress he had
+made in the French language. His military pride was
+much put to the trial, and he could hardly smother his
+feelings. He then asked me to show him his new King,
+of whom there was an old picture hung up, as he said it
+was now time to make acquaintance with his new sovereign,
+as well as with this new state of society.</p>
+
+<p>The grand ball given by the town at the Capitole on
+Thursday went off well, except that it was just such a
+crowd as an Easter Monday ball at the Mansion House.
+The rooms were very handsome, and the five hundred
+English, Spanish, and Portuguese officers added not a
+little to the effect of the scene. Nearly the whole were
+generals, aide-de-camps, staff-officers, or at least field-officers,
+and every order and ornament of every nation was
+worn. Lord Wellington was most splendid. The amusement
+commenced by leading him into the Salle de Trone
+<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">ci-devant</i> Bonaparte, where, over the vacant chair in the
+centre, was the picture of King Louis XVIII., and on
+each side that of the Duke d’Angoulême, and one of Lord
+Wellington himself—the latter a hasty caricature likeness
+taken by a painter here at the play from memory. He
+was then entertained with a short concert, principally
+consisting of La Chasse d’Henri IV., and “God save the
+King,” sung by the public singers from a gallery, amidst
+the clouds—goddesses and cupids painted above them.</p>
+
+<p>I had got Mr. K——, the famous English officer<span class="pagenum" id="Page_499">[Pg 499]</span>
+singer, to go with me to the leader of the band, and to
+give him the catch-club harmony of “God save the King,”
+and we wrote them down full instructions, and all the
+words for the song, solo, trio, chorus, &amp;c., the words spelt
+also according to the French pronunciation, while the
+musician caught by the ear and scribbled down all the
+parts, one by one, from K——’s singing. It was an
+interesting scene. They had a rehearsal, and Mr. K——
+gave the <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">prima donna</i> a few private lessons, and the
+whole in consequence went off really surprisingly well.
+The supper-tables were filled by about four sets successively,
+the English having the preference, sentinels
+letting us in, and keeping out the French until the last.
+This went on until there was not even bread and water
+remaining.</p>
+
+<p>The press, now, is at work here, printing Cevallo’s
+old history of the conduct of the French in Spain, and a
+variety of things, which to the natives are news. There
+seems to be a disposition to buy the books and read;
+nothing, however, will make the French what Cobbett
+calls us, “a thinking people.” They seem to be as
+frivolous as ever. The next thing wished for here, and
+at Bordeaux, is to get rid of this new constitution, and
+have the Bourbons as before; at least the party is strong
+for this line, and, unless something decisive is done soon,
+and the old military dispersed about, and gens-d’armes,
+I think they will even yet have a squabble about several
+things among themselves, which makes me wish that we
+should be off as soon as possible, and have nothing to do
+with them. As soon as all the foreign garrisons are
+withdrawn, and the line of the French empire settled, the
+faster we withdraw from within it the better. I always
+expected the royal cause would gain ground as it has, when
+once fairly tried. It was the only source of peace, and
+that was what all wanted, on any terms. Of course
+the acceptance of the Bourbons made it all easy; but I<span class="pagenum" id="Page_500">[Pg 500]</span>
+believe all the southern departments would gladly have
+been English, to secure peace, and get sugar, sell their
+wines, and get rid of conscriptions and acquisitions.</p>
+
+<p>Lord Wellington gives another grand ball at the
+<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">ci-devant</i> Prefecture, now Palais Royale, on Monday next.
+On Tuesday, he resigns his place there to the Duke
+d’Angoulême, and as there is an old adage about two
+kings of Brentford, I suspect he will soon afterwards take
+a trip somewhere else, at least for a time. I doubt,
+however, his leaving the armies altogether, while they
+remain in force, and the French marshals likewise.</p>
+
+<p>Bordeaux must be very proud of the example they
+have given to France. They must take especial care to
+conceal their subsequent alarms, and half-repentance of
+what they have done.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_501">[Pg 501]</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXVII">CHAPTER XXVII.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="fs80" style="margin-left: 2em; text-indent: -2em;">Toulouse—Its Churches—Protestant Service—Libraries—Reception of the
+Duke d’Angoulême—The French Generals—Popularity of Wellington.</p>
+
+<p class="right fs80">
+Head-quarters, Toulouse,<br>
+<span style="padding-right: 2em">April 27, 1814.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="no-indent"><span class="smcap">My dear M——</span>,
+</p>
+
+<p><span style="padding-left: 2em">Though</span> I have nothing now to amuse you with,
+but the result of my morning walks and inquiries in this
+town, I shall proceed as usual, more with a wish to
+preserve my own crude observations, than hoping to
+interest you much by the perusal.</p>
+
+<p>My last was finished on Saturday. On Sunday, about
+half-past eleven, I attended the service at the Protestant
+chapel, established under the sanction and patronage of
+Bonaparte, as a sort of church-wardenish gold-lettered
+record informed me. The service began with a prayer by
+the clerk; he then gave out a psalm, more noisy than
+musical, and without the accompaniment of the organ. I
+was astonished that such a small congregation could
+make so much noise and discord. One greasy-headed,
+methodistical-looking man, near me, continued in an
+unceasing roar, bearing much more resemblance to a
+well-known noise with which our mules so frequently
+indulge us, than any known harmony. A short prayer,
+and a long chapter from the New Testament, with the
+Commentary, as printed in the book, was then delivered
+from the pulpit or reading-desk (for there was but one)<span class="pagenum" id="Page_502">[Pg 502]</span>
+by a clergyman, who then entered. Another psalm
+ensued. The organ then played to introduce a young
+preacher, who took the reader’s place, and gave us a
+prayer and the Ten Commandments, and another psalm,
+partly to the organ; but before half a stave was finished,
+the organist found that his notes and the vocal ones were
+so different, that he ceased playing, and though he made
+two or three attempts at a single note afterwards, he
+found it would not do, and gave it up.</p>
+
+<p>The young preacher then read a text from the Bible,
+and gave us a very good extempore discourse about half-an-hour
+long. The subject was the vanity of this world,
+and the danger of temptation and evil communication.
+The language and delivery were clear and distinct; there
+was no rant, but much propriety of manner. A psalm
+followed, and the organ was not so much distanced;
+then the Lord’s Prayer and Belief, and a prayer for all
+descriptions of persons and denominations, like that of
+our own Church praying for dignitaries, &amp;c. And then
+another psalm, at last, in tolerable harmony, but very
+noisy. A blessing concluded the whole.</p>
+
+<p>At first there were only about forty-five persons;
+some half-dozen old gentlemen were in the seats near
+the altar. These had backs. About twenty-five women
+were in the right-hand seats; and about fifteen men in
+the left. The side-seats were chairs placed in rows, and
+all fastened to each other. In the course of the service,
+the numbers increased to about sixty or seventy. The
+congregation appeared to be nearly all of the middling
+class of tradesmen; only about three of our poor men
+took their allotted seats, quite at the back. As no one
+ever knelt down, there was no occasion for either room
+or cushions for that purpose. The men sat with their
+hats occasionally on and off, and legs crossed, at their
+ease, in the style of the House of Commons; but were
+attentive to the sermon. The three poor men all fell<span class="pagenum" id="Page_503">[Pg 503]</span>
+asleep, snoring so loud that a sort of beadle was obliged
+to awaken them. I was not much surprised on the
+whole, comparing this scene with that in the Roman
+Catholic churches, that the proselytes amongst the
+highest and lowest classes were not not numerous. This
+service suits neither. It is most adapted to an independent
+tradesman, who thinks a little for himself, and
+can see the errors of the Catholics, and likes the economy
+of the chapel. It might be accident, but I saw scarcely
+any white cockades,—only one or two of the elder, and
+I suppose richer, members of the community wear them
+in their hats.</p>
+
+<p>On Monday I looked into nearly all the churches,
+present and <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">ci-devant</i>, of Toulouse. The cathedral of St.
+Etienne I have already mentioned. The next in size and
+consequence is St. Saturnin, or more commonly called St.
+Surnin. This is a curious building, in the dark heavy
+Saxon style (reminding one of the early attempts at
+Grecian revival, and the introduction of the Gothic),
+all circular except the angular main pillars of the centre
+of the cross, which were heavy octagons; the roof circular,
+and upper windows double circles. Except the
+pillars, nearly the whole is made of the flat tile or brick,
+which is curious. It was built in the present form about
+the year 1160 to 1190. There are monuments of the
+Earls of Toulouse, &amp;c., of founders, and in a dark vaulted
+chapel under the grand altar are relics innumerable—of
+the thorns in the crown placed on the head of Christ;
+the heads of Barnabas, of Simon, and of Jude; parts
+of their bodies also; parts of Peter; besides bishops, &amp;c.;
+the body and figure of Thomas Aquinas; and an English
+saint, a king, whose name I could not make out. We
+heard much of the riches with which all these relics were
+formerly surrounded. It is said that the revolutionists
+carried off four hundredweight of gold, besides silver. All
+the most valuable part, however, as the good Catholics<span class="pagenum" id="Page_504">[Pg 504]</span>
+are bound to think, were fortunately spared, and still
+remain in excellent preservation, and tolerably fine with
+gilding.</p>
+
+<p>The general effect of the building is gloomy and superstitious,
+and a strange unpleasant smell, which some say
+proceeds from large vaults underneath, which are filled
+with bodies which do not corrupt, makes one glad to
+get out of the building as soon as curiosity is satisfied.
+They do not bury their dead in the church now, and the
+vaults I mentioned are walled up. In the remaining
+churches now in use there is little worthy of notice, but
+there are two very large <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">ci-devant</i> convent churches.
+That of the Jacobins is worthy of notice; one long
+building only, like King’s College Chapel (not a cross),
+and with one lofty row of circular pillars all down the
+centre. This forms as it were two equal main aisles, and
+no side aisles. On the sides are rows of chapels and
+a large cloister. Almost the whole is in brick, except
+the centre pillars. It is now regularly fitted up as
+cavalry barrack stables; and they are excellent, easily
+containing in the whole, I should think, about seven
+hundred horses. There is an octagon building adjoining,
+with a slender pillar, fitted up the same. Near this is
+another large, long, similar building, formerly a chapel,
+but without the centre pillars, and the scale of course
+somewhat smaller. This is the forage store for the
+cavalry barrack. We have them now both in use, as the
+French had. I must now go in my best to meet the
+Duke d’Angoulême.</p>
+
+<p><em>Friday, the 26th.</em>—About two o’clock on Wednesday
+the most interesting scene commenced since that of the
+first day of our entrance, and a more splendid one still.
+Lord Wellington, surrounded by about three hundred
+horsemen, composed of general officers, aides-de-camp,
+and staff officers of all descriptions, and of the four
+nations, Spanish, English, French and Portuguese, went<span class="pagenum" id="Page_505">[Pg 505]</span>
+out to meet the Duke d’Angoulême, all in their best
+uniforms, on their best chargers, and covered with white
+cockades. The only French general of the opposing
+army who came in time for this was Clausel, and he was
+for some time side by side with Lord Wellington. When
+we had gone about six miles, and arrived at a sort of
+triumphal arch on a hill, the Duke appeared, escorted by
+a guard of our heavy dragoons and a double French
+guard of honour from Bordeaux and Toulouse. We
+drew up on each side, after the interview with Lord
+Wellington, to let them pass, and then all joined in the
+procession to the town.</p>
+
+<p>The sides of the road were crowded with carriages and
+people, and the enthusiasm of the lower classes, and of
+the women in particular, was excessive. The Duke and
+Lord Wellington, after being joined by more guards of
+honour and more suite, as we approached the town,
+entered the street over the grand bridge, amidst the
+shouts and acclamations of a multitude crowding every
+window. The scene reminded me of the London streets
+at Lord Nelson’s funeral. From the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">tête de pont</i>, which
+still in part exists, over the bridge, up to the cathedral
+through all the principal streets, was a double line of
+English troops, between which the procession passed.
+Several of the regiments had got their clothing, and they
+looked admirably, especially the Scotch 91st.</p>
+
+<p>A sort of moveable <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">garde urbaine de l’infanterie</i> on each
+side kept also with us all the way. White flags, exhibiting
+French ingenuity to the utmost, were hanging
+from every window. Sheets, table-cloths, towels, &amp;c.,
+covered with green paper fleurs-de-lys formed excellent
+standards, and paper flags were innumerable. The
+women, and some of the old men, were quite mad with
+joy, and screamed, <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Vive le Roi et vivent les Anglois!</i> till
+they were stopped by absolute exhaustion, or some by
+tears of joy. Every house was hung with laurel mixed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_506">[Pg 506]</span>
+with the white, and the lower story covered entirely with
+old tapestry, old carpets, or sheets, and paper fleurs-de-lys.
+In the morning this made the streets look something
+like Brokers’-alley certainly, but the effect, when mixed
+with the rest of the scene, was not bad.</p>
+
+<p>After passing under another triumphal arch of table-cloths,
+laurel, fleurs-de-lys, &amp;c., we reached the cathedral,
+and a <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Te Deum</i> succeeded. This was much like the last,
+only rather more in order, and the public bodies were
+more numerous and in their costume. The ten Judges
+and the President, in their red robes, like our aldermen,
+with small black-and-gold caps. The Judges de Premier
+Instance, in black Master-of-Arts gowns, with sky-blue
+sashes; the Avocats in black gowns alone; the professors
+of sciences and arts in their crimson-coloured Master-of-Arts
+gowns, and those of belles-lettres in orange; the
+Archbishop and clergy in full costume. The music was
+not very striking, but many of the old people cried with
+joy.</p>
+
+<p>About six o’clock the Duke dined with Lord Wellington,
+and went to the play in the evening, where the acclamations
+were renewed with fresh vigour; the women in the
+streets caught hold of his coat to kiss it. Yesterday the
+Duke had a <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">grande messe</i>, and then a full-dress drawing-room—this
+in the morning. In the evening the great
+rooms of the Capitolium were opened again for music and
+dancing. The Duke came in there too soon, when
+scarcely five hundred people were arrived, but in another
+hour the crowd was immense. The dresses of the women
+were very splendid, and the variety of orders and uniforms
+made the scene very gay. General Villette was
+there, as well as Clausel, and a number of French officers.
+The Duke was just the same as at St. Jean de Luz, and
+remembered all his old acquaintance there, myself among
+the rest.</p>
+
+<p>He not only gave me a gracious nod during the first<span class="pagenum" id="Page_507">[Pg 507]</span>
+procession, but surprised me by coming round behind the
+chairs of the ladies, where I was standing, in the music-room,
+and gave me his hand, and reminded me of King
+Joseph’s saddle-cloth, which I had given the Duke, and
+which was on his horse, as I observed, when he entered
+the town. His affability and good-nature are striking;
+but he must acquire more dignity and self-possession, as
+his figure is against him in appearance, and he seems
+shy; in short he must learn the trade of kingcraft, like
+any other, and a quiet rational man is just now the best
+king the French can have. The great rock to avoid is
+the probability of being misled by indiscreet emigrants.</p>
+
+<p>I was, it must be confessed, rather at a loss what to
+say to the Duke, but when he talked of the saddle-cloth,
+I replied, that “Its only merit, which was as a trophy,
+now was at an end, as the family of the Bonapartes had
+ceased to be objects to triumph over.” This, and a lame
+congratulation on what had happened, completed my
+speech; as, however, it was as new to me to address
+royalty as it was to him to act it, I hope if occasion
+offers I may improve by practice as well as his Highness.
+One circumstance amused me much in all this scene: the
+good city of Toulouse covered its streets with sand, and
+made the air resound with cries, and every house had two
+paper lanterns in every window at night; and they were,
+in general, I am convinced, sincere in this, although one
+might have been induced to think otherwise from the
+acts of the authorities and public offices. A set of <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">garde
+urbaine</i> officers (the new gens-d’armes) ran all the way at
+the head of the procession, prompting the cries, and
+setting them going all the way we went; and the illuminations
+were, by special order of the mayor, from the
+Bureau d’Illuminations, as usual in the time of Bonaparte’s
+system. My intended observation is this—the city
+loyalty vented itself in cries, in <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Te Deums</i>, in music, and
+in farthing candles, and dancing, shouting, draperies, &amp;c.,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_508">[Pg 508]</span>
+but the Royal Duke was placed in the Palais Royale
+(<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">ci-devant</i> Prefecture), and no provision made for his
+table or for his establishment or Bordeaux guard of
+honour, and our head-quarters’ Commissary was called
+upon to feed the animals, &amp;c., of the guard and followers,
+and Lord Wellington to entertain the Prince and invite
+the principal citizens to meet him.</p>
+
+<p>The old notion of the sign of the Four Alls—“John
+Bull pays for all,” seems to be as well known here as
+elsewhere in the world. There seems no principle now-a-days
+more generally diffused or adopted more readily
+in every quarter. Our rations are all procured, you must
+be aware, by requisitions, through the mayors of the
+country, &amp;c., to be provided by the districts, and you
+would naturally think the same authority could provide
+for all French deserters, and for the Royal troops of
+guards and establishment; but then who would pay for
+all these requisitions? All we have is paid for; and it
+is <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">bien plus commode</i> to come to our store ready collected
+than to form one for these purposes.</p>
+
+<p>An odd incident occurred to me just before the procession
+on Wednesday. I was at Lord Wellington’s
+new hotel, the great inn, the Hotel de France, endeavouring
+to find his room, to leave a Court-martial, when
+I stumbled on my friend the Dutch aide-de-camp of
+General Clausel, who told me he was looking for one of
+our Marshal’s aides-de-camp in waiting to introduce his
+General, who was behind him, and who, on my turning
+round, recognized me, as he and his division took me
+prisoner. To their great surprise, I told them that there
+was no chance of finding an aide-de-camp, but perhaps
+we might find a serjeant, and I was on the search. It
+so happened that there was no one but an ignorant
+sentinel. In trying a door or two, we all blundered upon
+Lord Wellington, who came himself to the door; so I
+introduced the astonished Clausel, and walked off.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_509">[Pg 509]</span></p>
+
+<p>My Dutch friend told me that Soult and Suchet would
+have had about six aides-de-camp, &amp;c., in the first room,
+and a general officer in waiting in the second. I own
+that I think our great man goes to the opposite extreme;
+but he does not like being watched and plagued. Just
+after the state <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">levée</i> yesterday, I saw him cross the crowded
+square in his blue coat and round hat, almost unnoticed
+and unknown even to the very people who half an hour
+before had been cheering him. In one angle of Lord
+Wellington’s hotel lives Madam C——, a Spanish beauty,
+married into a French family of rank, who are the proprietors
+of the hotel, but who have been obliged to let
+nearly the whole, reserving this angle. I do not mean
+to be scandalous; but this, perhaps, may have decided the
+choice of the house.</p>
+
+<p>Lord Wellington to-day had intelligence that Marshal
+Suchet was on his way here, and has been with his staff
+about a dozen miles to meet him in form. The French
+Marshal, from some confusion, did not appear, and Lord
+Wellington would wait no longer, but returned alone. In
+our grand procession to meet the royal Duke on Wednesday
+a ridiculous accident happened. A French post carriage
+with three horses abreast ran away, and came full
+drive down upon us, the Frenchmen all bawling, the
+horses pulling all ways, and clearing all before them. Our
+three hundred warriors were all broken in an instant, and
+dispersed over the ditches, and in all directions, until at
+last one unfortunate horseman ran foul of the French
+horses, and the whole came down together. Fortunately
+nobody was materially hurt.</p>
+
+<p><em>Saturday, Post-day.</em>—As I returned home last night
+by the Palais Royal from dinner, I found every one going,
+without regular invitation, into the Palais Royal to the
+Prince, who held a <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">soirée</i>; so I entered likewise, and
+found him surrounded by dancing as usual, and by Marshals
+and Generals only to be outdone at Paris. Suchet<span class="pagenum" id="Page_510">[Pg 510]</span>
+had arrived with his staff. Colonel Canning, who was
+left behind for him, brought him in about two hours after
+Lord Wellington returned. General Lamarque and several
+other officers came with him, two Generals, as aides-de-camp,
+besides Colonels, &amp;c. The Marshal himself was
+a strange figure. His head and cheeks and chin all overgrown
+with hair, like a wild man of the woods: and his
+dress more splendid than the drum-major of one of our
+Guards’ bands on a birthday.</p>
+
+<p>The contrast had a singular effect. The uniform was
+blue, but almost concealed, and could have stood alone
+with gold embroidery. Every seam, edge, and button,
+before and behind, above and below, was <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">galloné</i> with a
+sort of oak-leaf pattern about three inches wide, and on
+his breast were two gold and silver stars, as large as our
+Garter star, and several small orders of different kinds.
+He would have been rather a good-looking man if dressed
+in a more moderate style. Lord Wellington and several
+of his Generals, being in their plain uniforms, made the
+French General’s extravagance the more striking.</p>
+
+<p>Soult’s aide-de-camp also came in, and a guard was
+ready, and an hotel for him, but he did not appear. Generals
+Lamarque, Clausel, Villette, and three or four
+more, and a number of embroidered <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Payeurs</i> and <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Commissaires
+Généraux</i>, <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Préfêts</i>, &amp;c., increased the general
+glitter; but nothing looked better than our scarlet. The
+Prince and Suchet had much conversation, and seemed
+more easy and gay than I had seen the former before with
+any of his new friends.</p>
+
+<p>Scarcely any Frenchman has worn the Spanish or Portuguese
+cockade; and amidst all the cries you never hear
+a <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">viva</i> for either Spaniards or Portuguese. They are in
+consequence very angry and sulky, and I think a little
+jealous of us. This you may well imagine, when you
+learn that they all along consider that <em>they</em> have accomplished
+all that has happened, and that we have assisted<span class="pagenum" id="Page_511">[Pg 511]</span>
+a little certainly, but that they could have done without
+us. Except those about Lord Wellington, who do it
+more out of compliment to him, the Spaniards in general,
+and a great number of the Portuguese, will not in consequence
+wear the white cockade.</p>
+
+<p>I see no harm in this, for as we fought a whole century
+to prevent the two kingdoms of France and Spain
+from being both under the Bourbons, it is quite as well
+now that it happens to be our interest to fight for the
+contrary doctrine, that there should be as little cordiality
+between them as possible. A Spanish soldier was told
+the other day in the street to cry “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Vive le Roi! Vivent
+les Bourbons!</i>” He made no answer. The request was
+repeated, and he was asked why he made a difficulty.
+He was still silent at first, but then rapped out a favourite
+Spanish oath, then “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Viva Fernando VII.! Viva Lord
+Wellington!</i> Los Espanoles care for nothing more;”
+and nothing more would he say.</p>
+
+<p>It is remarkable enough, but the fact is that Lord
+Wellington is very popular with the common Spanish
+soldiers, I am told, and with the country people; but
+with the generality of officers, regimental in particular,
+and with the highest classes in Spain, it is rather the reverse.</p>
+
+<p>It is curious now to see Lord Wellington play the
+second fiddle, having been so long established leader. It
+will serve to break him in by degrees for England and
+peace. He carries it off very well. Most of our Lieutenant-generals
+are gone to Paris, or going, and many
+other officers. I suppose it will be best for me to remain
+with the army to the last, or at least as long as Lord
+Wellington remains, and then go straight to London and
+report my arrival.</p>
+
+<p>At the Capitolium on Thursday, young B——, with
+whom I was talking, as we were very hot and tired, persuaded
+me to sit down with him on the bottom step of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_512">[Pg 512]</span>
+the vacant throne. The Prince and all the grandees
+were then in another room, but we were soon routed up
+by the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">garde urbaine</i> sentinel, to the mortification and
+vexation of my young honourable companion at not being
+allowed at Toulouse what he was entitled to in the House
+of Lords in England. He is well; and dancing away
+cotillions, waltzes, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p><em>Later.</em>—We have just had an arrival, and Lord Wellington
+quits this place for Paris immediately: I hope,
+however, that he will return shortly, as he now intends
+to do. We all here said that matters would never be
+well arranged at Paris without him, and that he would
+go at last.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Toulouse, May 2nd, 1814.</em>—Having
+thanked you for your letter of the 12th of April, and
+papers to the same date, I must proceed on my old
+subject, Toulouse, and its sights and curiosities, regretting
+on your account, as well as my own, that they are not
+more interesting.</p>
+
+<p>The great cannon-foundry here was formerly one of
+the most prominent, but it has now ceased to work for
+nearly three or four years. How or why this could
+happen, when military works and manufactures seemed
+alone to flourish in France during that period, I cannot
+say. The fact is, everything remains in a state as if the
+workmen were only all gone away to dinner, but in
+silent desolation, like a scene in Herculaneum, or
+Southey’s town under water. Unfinished moulds, guns,
+&amp;c., and tools are lying about in all directions. To show
+how much the whole has been neglected, even <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Egalité</i>
+has been suffered to remain on one entrance pillar,
+<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Liberté</i> on the other, and the word <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Impérial</i> in the
+middle. The fleur-de-lys will, I suppose, find its way
+there soon by some accident.</p>
+
+<p>Suchet now commands both armies here. He told
+the Duke d’Angoulême that he had sixteen thousand<span class="pagenum" id="Page_513">[Pg 513]</span>
+men of his own army at his service. This hero, to whom
+the day of the month, yesterday (May-day), reminded
+me of a much nearer resemblance than the drum-major,
+has left us, and is off to his troops.</p>
+
+<p>There are two public libraries here, in which I have
+spent the better part of a morning each, one containing
+about thirty thousand volumes, the other about twenty-five
+thousand. The former has too large a proportion of
+ecclesiastical learning; but they both contain some good
+editions of classics and good historians, annals, &amp;c.,
+particularly the smaller library. They are old episcopal
+and private foundations, and have neither gained nor
+lost much by the Revolution, which is rather extraordinary.
+There seems to have been no very valuable early
+editions or manuscripts—nothing very much worth
+plundering; and they say they were too conscientious to
+take advantage of the times, and enrich themselves by
+plunder. The arrangement of the books is not bad.
+Firstly, good polyglot and other Bibles of all kinds; then
+commentaries on sacred history, &amp;c.; then history in
+general; then laws of nations, &amp;c.; then laws in general,
+essays, &amp;c.; then French voyages, arts, sciences, classics,
+and belles lettres. There is an atlas of the Grand Canal
+and its vicinity on an immense scale, which might have
+been important had we proceeded, though I think no
+other stand would have been made until after we had
+gone beyond the limits of the canal, and after a junction
+of Soult with Suchet at Narbonne. Amongst the books
+pointed out as of the most interest, were Racine’s Greek
+editions of Euripides and Æschylus, containing his name
+and several notes in his own handwriting,—a remarkably
+neat hand. The editions were Stephens’ and Stanley’s.
+The notes were either short free translations of passages
+and sentiments, or memoranda to call attention to particular
+passages for future use and application, or they
+were short remarks of approbation or disapprobation of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_514">[Pg 514]</span>
+scenes, passages, &amp;c. I copied out nearly the whole, not
+being very long, and I now enclose them. Will you
+oblige me by putting them into my Euripides or somewhere,
+to be preserved.</p>
+
+<p>Several of the private houses here of the merchants
+and nobles are on a very large scale, and contain very
+spacious suites of rooms round the court-yard. The
+architecture is, in general, very moderate. Most of the
+mansions have only the merit of extent; and one or two
+which have an attempt at more are in bad taste. The
+one most remarkable is particularly so. It has an
+immense heavy stone cornice, out of all proportion, and
+the capitals of all the pillars are a species of false Corinthian,
+or rather, Composite, with the upper ornaments,
+spread eagles, in most barbarous taste, and in the place
+of the most beautiful part of the true pillars of the Composite
+order.</p>
+
+<p>Toulouse appears to have been for a very considerable
+time nearly stationary in size. There is not, as in some
+of our country towns, and in some of those in France,
+the new town as well as the old. The old brick walls,
+with occasional towers, remain entire almost all round,
+and still form nearly the city boundary, for there is
+scarcely any suburbs without the walls. At several of
+the entrances within there seems to have been some
+vacant spaces, and in two or three places an ornamental
+sort of crescent or square has been commenced,—one
+lately, but the others before the Revolution. They are
+all unfinished. In general, however, all within the city
+walls is covered with building of some sort or another.</p>
+
+<p>The splendid façade of the Capitolium was raised
+before the Revolution. Henry IV. commenced the work,
+it is said, and his statue remains there. A very small
+beginning has been made towards stone façades on one
+of the other sides of the Grande Place of the Capital, but
+in general the old shabby buildings still remain, and
+seem likely to do so, for some time to come.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_515">[Pg 515]</span></p>
+
+<p><em>May 3rd.</em>—Our Prince is gone to review his new army
+under Suchet, and leaves us quiet. Every day carries
+off some of our higher officers, and we all expect to move
+the instant Lord Wellington returns, if not before. To-morrow,
+if possible, I go with a party and passport to see
+the great basin de Feriol, the main feeder of the Grand
+Canal. It is the sight of this country, and therefore,
+though expecting to be disappointed, I have agreed to
+join Dr. Macgregor and a party to-morrow, and return
+the next day. It is near Revel, about thirty-two miles
+off.</p>
+
+<p>I yesterday attended the Court of Appeal here for the
+four departments around—Aude, Tarn, Lot and Garonne,
+and Arriège. There were ten judges present: there exist,
+and may be present, as many as sixteen, and a quorum of
+seven is necessary to form a Court. There were, besides
+the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Procureur-Général</i> and <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Advocat-Général</i>, about twenty-five
+barristers in gowns, nearly like ours, but with bonnets
+instead of wigs. They were dirty, and mostly old, and
+looked precisely like a set of provincial barristers in England.
+The same habits make the manners and appearance
+so similar in nations nearly equally civilized, that,
+until the language betrayed the difference, I could have
+fancied myself in England again.</p>
+
+<p>The subject in dispute was half an acre of vineyard,
+and it turned on the construction of a confused legacy in
+a will of an old gentleman. The eagerness with which
+the contest was maintained reminded me of a Court of
+Quarter Sessions in England,—all talking at once, and
+with abundance of noise and action, especially just as the
+ten judges, like our juries, had laid their heads together
+to consider, and whilst <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">le Procureur-Général</i> was summing
+up the law and argument previously to the Court.
+Either the lawyers and judges must be starving, or the
+judicial establishment must be very expensive in France
+now.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_516">[Pg 516]</span></p>
+
+<p>There are, besides this Court, others of <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Première Instance</i>
+in each department, and in four departments you
+have more judges than in England. Unless some changes
+are made, the French, in my opinion, will find their whole
+government, which is calculated for a larger empire, in
+every way much too expensive. This will prevent any
+great reduction of ordinary taxation. The King and his
+court to be paid; the senate; all the marshals and grand
+dignitaries, the prefêts, &amp;c. Each department now has a
+salary to pay its prefêt nearly as large as that of an intendant
+of a whole province before the Revolution. The
+King will find abundance of patronage, if this goes on;
+but a great part of the national income will be consumed
+in the management and support of the different species of
+rulers. One advantage in this, it is to be hoped, will be
+to keep France more quiet in future, as I have otherwise
+little faith in the present temper of this changeable race.</p>
+
+<p><em>May 7, 1814. Post-day.</em>—At five o’clock on Wednesday
+morning I went to Dr. Macgregor’s to breakfast,
+preparatory to our expedition to St. Feriol, having obtained
+our leave and a passport for that purpose. Our
+party consisted of Dr. H——, Colonel G——, and P——,
+General H——, and Mr. J——, and Mrs. J——. On
+account of the latter, who was in an interesting condition,
+we set out on the canal road towards Castelnaudary,
+that she might go in the boat. We rode along the towing-path
+very pleasantly for about twenty miles. Finding
+that Castelnaudary would be so much out of the way,
+we then left the canal and rode across through Villefranche
+and St. Felix to Revel, about twenty-two miles further.
+This water scheme delayed us much, so that we did not
+reach Revel until seven or eight at night, and it also
+lengthened our ride considerably.</p>
+
+<p>The ordinary dinner at twelve, at the lock-house, was
+however, entertaining, and partly made up for this; but,
+in truth, ladies should learn on these occasions, when in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_517">[Pg 517]</span>
+such a state, to stay at home. We expected a <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">malheur</i>
+every hour, she was so fatigued.</p>
+
+<p>On Thursday morning, after breakfast, we went three
+miles to Sorège, to see the great college or school establishment
+there, which is about three miles from Revel.
+It was formerly attached to a convent, and a sort of
+Government military establishment. At the Revolution
+the buildings were sold, and the present director and his
+brother, who was one of the professors of the old establishment,
+bought the whole, and undertook to continue,
+and, as they say, to improve the plan as a private specution.
+There are now about three hundred boys, from
+eight to nineteen, or even twenty-one years old. On the
+present arrangement, four hundred and forty is the limit.
+The number, it is said, once amounted to nearly six or
+seven hundred. There are now about thirty Protestant
+boys. The rest are Catholics. Most of the Spanish
+boys, once very numerous, left the school during the late
+war. This peace, it is supposed, will bring them back,
+even in greater numbers. English boys are also expected
+to come again, as formerly.</p>
+
+<p>The building is very spacious, and is prettily situated,
+under the side of a mountainous tract of country, at the
+head of a valley. The accommodation is very ample, and
+the order and arrangement very great; though, in my
+opinion, it is less cleanly than the college at Aire. The
+studies are more varied; and the whole is complete in
+itself; for there is a priest, a doctor, an Italian professor
+of mineralogy, anatomy, a riding-master, and teachers of
+all kinds. The regular studies for all the boys are
+French, Latin, a little Greek, mathematics to some extent,
+dancing, swimming, drawing from models and casts,
+perspective, drawing from anatomical study, fortification,
+&amp;c.; and for the upper boys, riding—for which purpose
+about sixteen horses are at the disposal of the riding-master.
+In addition to this, every boy has his own bedstead<span class="pagenum" id="Page_518">[Pg 518]</span>
+of iron; and all the two upper classes of the three
+into which the whole school is divided have separate
+places to sleep in. Every boy, at a certain time, either
+follows in his studies the choice of his parents, or his
+own inclination, and may learn Italian, German, English,
+Spanish, or any musical instrument; even the pianoforte.
+The drawing-school is hung round with the approved
+productions of the boys, and is spacious, and so is the
+riding-school. There is also a theatre, regularly fitted
+up, in which the boys recite, and act plays and perform
+concerts; asking the neighbours to come and form an
+audience. The establishment also contains a small botanical
+garden, a tolerable collection of mineralogy, and a
+piece of water for the purpose of swimming. The boys
+were all in uniform, and looked healthy and well. As
+they come from all quarters, it is usual to leave them
+there all the year round, and this is rather expected and
+desired. They come clothed at first, but afterwards
+everything is found them, and the parents have nothing
+to do but to pay <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">mille francs</i>, about 45<em>l.</em> or 50<em>l.</em>, annually,
+and no bills or extras of any kind are ever sent or charged,
+whatever may be learnt by the boys: this is rather dearer
+than at Aire or St. Sever, I believe, but not much, when
+all circumstances are considered.</p>
+
+<p>We found the schoolmasters consequential and prosy,
+as they usually are with us. The Italian, who was more
+particularly so, was formerly the professor who managed
+the Grand Duke of Tuscany’s collection. This education
+would, I think, suit many an orphan or natural son destined
+for the English army, and with small means. He
+would join his regiment at eighteen, with much more
+useful knowledge than could be obtained for the same
+money in England, as to languages, &amp;c., and much information
+useful to a military man. He would also come
+away, with at least one or two accomplishments probably,
+by which he might amuse himself in country-quarters,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_519">[Pg 519]</span>
+and be kept out of mischief. It might also answer for
+mercantile men, merchants, clerks, &amp;c., though, perhaps,
+some of these pursuits would only make them idle. Most
+of the boys are destined for merchants or soldiers, I
+understood. For other professions, probably, we have
+as good, or better, and as cheap an education in Yorkshire,
+and other places in England. This sort of education
+accounts for the general distribution of a certain
+extent of acquirement which we see amongst the French
+officers, and for the advantages they possess as to the
+power of self-amusement. When prisoners of war, they
+have a smattering of drawing, dancing, singing, music,
+acting, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>We then went to the basin of St. Feriol. On our way
+I rode up a valley to see some foundries of copper, which
+were much talked of; only one of a number was at work,
+as times were so bad. I found the copper was Swedish,
+and only worked there on account of the facilities of
+wood and water to work the bellows and anvil. The
+work in which the men were then engaged, was making
+saucepans and pots, and stewing-pans for the Toulouse
+ships, and on a very small scale. I always like to ascertain
+that there is nothing to see when a sight is talked
+of. We went then over the hill to the basin.</p>
+
+<p>The extent of this basin rather surprised me; but
+though it was almost exactly what I expected to find it,
+I was very glad to have seen it. The shape of the
+ground, and course of the stream, were particularly fortunate
+and well adapted to the plan, and the great dam or
+dyke, which pens back the water, so as to form a small
+lake, in depth, near the wall, from fifty to sixty feet, is a
+noble work. It consists of three main walls, well <em>terrassed</em>
+or puddled between each, and with two large
+arched vaults, one quite at the bottom, covering the
+natural bed of the river; the other higher up, and
+leading to the <em>robinets</em> or great cocks, which let out the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_520">[Pg 520]</span>
+water as required. The river coming down the valley
+fills the basin, not being able to find its vent, and therefore
+spreading over the ground, and filling all the hollows
+up to the dam wall, which is about sixty feet high.
+The banks, except the natural dam, are the natural shape
+of the ground, and there is no excavation at all. When
+full, the water as required is let out by a hatch, and so
+runs by into the stream, which conducts it, after about
+ten miles circuit, to the highest point of the canal,
+whence the locks descend both ways to Toulouse, and to
+the Mediterranean. It then supplies both. When the
+basin is low, the next opening is a sort of hatch or floodgate,
+lower down in the wall; when lower still, the water
+is let off by three great <em>robinets</em> or cocks at the end of the
+<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">voute</i>, about thirty feet or so below the surface. When
+these are opened, the rushing of the water makes a tremendous
+noise, at a distance like that of thunder. When
+it is required to empty or clean the basin, the river is
+turned off, and the contents of the basin empty themselves
+in the original bed of the stream: the contents of
+the basin are, in my opinion, six millions of tons of water.
+There is another smaller basin, about ten miles higher
+up, in the mountains, and another near the canal, whence
+the stream enters it.</p>
+
+<p>The whole seems well managed. The canal itself is
+kept in great order, like our New River, the banks trimmed,
+&amp;c.; and in width it exceeds even our Royal Canal
+in Ireland, probably by several yards.</p>
+
+<p>With much delay and difficulty, we got Mrs. J——
+through these sights, after much unnecessary alarm and
+fright in the vaults. We returned about five to dinner
+at Revel, where we slept again yesterday. We had a hot
+ride home through Caraman and Lentar, about thirty-two
+miles. The country round the canal and in the
+bottoms is rich and fertile, but it contains little wood. It
+is like some of our Somersetshire and Dorsetshire valleys,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_521">[Pg 521]</span>
+but more covered with villas and chateaux, and villages.
+The road back, by Caraman, is through a much poorer
+country, but also like the higher bad parts of Somersetshire,
+and that neighbourhood—such as near Chard and
+the hills round Bath.</p>
+
+<p>The villages seem in a state of decay, and the inhabitants
+poor, but the country upon the whole is in much
+better condition, in point of cultivation and appearance,
+than one could suppose after what has passed in the last
+twenty years. In one or two out-of-the-way places we
+were stared at, and followed like monsters or sights, but
+were everywhere well received by the people. At Sorège
+some French cavalry was quartered; but they were
+nearly all gone to the grand review before the Duke
+d’Angoulême. I should like to have been there also;
+but we understood it would not be liked, and that the
+Duke was to go without English altogether: this was
+quite right. I am told that the review went off well,
+and that Soult himself set a good example.</p>
+
+<p>It is strange to think of our carrying off Bonaparte
+in a frigate; and his conversation with Augereau is
+curious after the address of the latter to his men. King
+Joseph is gone off and escaped; but no one need be much
+afraid of him now.</p>
+
+<p>The style of nearly all the French chateaux is similar;
+all front and appearance.</p>
+
+<p>On my return yesterday I dined with Mr. B—— and
+his French hosts, for I scarcely know whose dinner it
+was; I believe a joint effort. The wines were the
+patron’s, and very good. He is a man of fortune, a
+Monsieur de T——, and speaks English tolerably. The
+wife is a pleasing woman, and rather good-looking and
+young. They were very civil, and she sang and played
+in the evening very fairly. At least she had much execution
+and dash, if not feeling, in her playing. Like
+most of our young female players, she left out all the
+andantes and slow passages.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_522">[Pg 522]</span></p>
+
+<p>The furniture of the two or three rooms in which she
+lived was very splendid. Handsome carpets were alone
+wanting to make her own room in particular an elegant
+fine lady’s drawing-room in England. In some respects,
+particularly as to the gilding, there was both more show
+and taste than generally are seen with us. The pianoforte
+was particularly handsome; it was by Erard of
+Paris, and, though only a small one, cost a hundred louis
+d’or. The whole content of her room cost, it is said, a
+thousand louis d’or.</p>
+
+<p>In the variety and materials of the ladies’ dresses here,
+there seems to be also a very considerable degree of
+luxury—more perhaps than with us.</p>
+
+<p>We are now very dull, and as the Prince is still absent,
+do not even hear the “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Vive le Roi!</i>” or “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Vivent les
+Bourbons!</i>” &amp;c., as usual. I was much amused yesterday
+at seeing pasted up at a country inn, a halfpenny print
+of the royal Duke d’Angoulême in his best, on horseback,
+and surrounded by a copy of most loyal verses singing
+his praises and those of the Bourbons, and the English,
+in the measure, and going to the music of the famous
+Marseillais hymn; in short, a sort of parody of that
+song, beginning “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Allons enfans de la Garonne</i>,” &amp;c.
+What changes!</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_523">[Pg 523]</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXVIII">CHAPTER XXVIII.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="fs80" style="margin-left: 2em; text-indent: -2em;">Toulouse—Mr. Macarthy’s Library—The Marquess of Buckingham—General
+Hope—Wellington’s Dukedom—The Theatre—A Romantic
+Story—Feeling towards the English—The Duke on the Russian Cavalry.</p>
+
+<p class="right fs80">
+Head-Quarters, Toulouse,<br>
+<span style="padding-right: 2em">May 11, 1814.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="no-indent"><span class="smcap">My dear M——.</span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span style="padding-left: 2em">The</span> very small number of sights which this town
+affords being exhausted, and Lord Wellington being still
+absent, we are in truth more dull than we should be in a
+country town in England. The only interesting subject
+of conversation now is, who goes to America, and who
+does not? Some of the regiments move to-day towards
+Bordeaux from hence for the purpose of embarking upon
+this new expedition, which I should think would all end
+in a mere demonstration. Lord Wellington is expected
+here to-morrow, and we shall then know what is to
+happen; and head-quarters will, I conclude, move immediately.</p>
+
+<p>I have heard nothing since my last, and seen but one
+thing worth mentioning, and that is, Mr. Macarthy’s
+library, which the old father and grandfather have been
+sixty years collecting, and which is now to be sold on the
+father’s death for the benefit of the widow and nine
+children. This is the library for which the Duke of
+Devonshire offered 25,000<em>l.</em> sterling as it stands; but the
+bargain was never closed, as he wished the whole to be
+embarked at the risk of the owner, and they wanted to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_524">[Pg 524]</span>
+have the money for it as it stands here, to be moved by
+the purchaser. The owner now talks of sending it to
+Paris, and having a public sale there by auction, thinking
+that emperors and kings will then bid against the Duke
+of Devonshire, Earl Spencer, and others of our book-loving
+nobles.</p>
+
+<p>It contains a considerable number of fine copies of
+“Principes editiones,” filling one side of a large room all
+upon vellum. There is also Cardinal Ximenes’ polyglot
+edition of the Bible; his own copy—the only one on
+vellum; and a number of valuable books and some fine
+MSS. Amongst the rest is the first printed edition of
+the Psalms in 1457, of which we are told the only other
+perfect copy is in our king’s (George the Third’s) library;
+that Lord Spencer had only an imperfect copy, and that
+twelve thousand francs had been already offered for this
+one volume! So the world goes! This sum would furnish
+a handsome set of all the best French authors, and
+amusement for life; but many, you find, prefer a single
+black-letter volume, which one must go to school again to
+learn to read, and which, indeed, looks like a child’s great
+black-letter spelling book, or the books among the giant
+friends of Gulliver. A single page as a specimen would be
+as good to me as the whole, and thus five hundred curiosos
+would be gratified for a few guineas a-head; or a lottery
+would be still better—fifty pages for the highest prize,
+and a few lines for every one; no blanks! There would
+be another advantage in this, that it would be employment
+for some worthy collector for half his life to reassemble
+all the parts and put the book together
+again.</p>
+
+<p>The Marquess of Buckingham has been here, and is
+now going to Tarbes and Barege, and then returns to see
+our great man. We hear the latter was at the review at
+Paris in his blue coat and round hat. This is quite like
+him, and upon a good principle; the marshals, the public<span class="pagenum" id="Page_525">[Pg 525]</span>
+functionaries, the kings and the emperors, would have
+outdone anything he could have put on except this.</p>
+
+<p>I am sorry not to have returned from Revel through
+Castelnaudary. Some of the officers did so, and by that
+means fell in with a division of the French army. The
+French officers were very civil, but told the same story—“If
+the Emperor had not deserted us, we never would
+have deserted him; and the men are of the same opinion;
+but as it was, there was nothing else to be done.”
+Colonels B—— and C—— went over to the second
+review at Montauban, where the Duke d’Angoulême
+reviewed Count Reille’s corps—two divisions. If I had
+known this had been permitted, I should have been very
+curious to be of the party. The men, it is said, were
+well equipped and in high order. The officers in general
+looked very shabby and unlike gentlemen.</p>
+
+<p>Suchet was smiling and in high good humour, and
+very fine as he was here. Soult was only to be distinguished
+by a most enormous hat, and by a surly look,
+which is described as unpleasantly penetrating, and more
+bespeaking talent than amiability. He took little notice
+of the English officers, but the aides-de-camp and staff
+officers, both belonging to Soult and to the other Generals,
+did so when they learnt who they were, and appeared
+very earnest in their attentions and civilities. They
+went there in a carriage, but were splendidly mounted
+immediately; Colonel —— on Count Erlar’s led and
+caparisoned charger.</p>
+
+<p><em>Thursday, 12th.</em>—Lord Wellington not having yet returned,
+and of course nothing positive being known as to
+our destination, we have only those passing reports which
+the military men call “shaves.”</p>
+
+<p>General Hope is, I fear, likely to suffer long from his
+wounds. He has astonished the Generals at Bayonne by
+making three of them presents each of an English horse
+out of his stud. It is an odd circumstance, but I believe<span class="pagenum" id="Page_526">[Pg 526]</span>
+true, that the sort of notice we had of an intended sortie
+by the enemy at Bayonne, which was given by a deserter
+just before it took place, only did us mischief. The out-picquets
+were doubled, and as no picquets could stand the
+rush of four or five thousand men, we only lost so many
+more prisoners by this. The men were alarmed with the
+expectation of such an attack. The only fault spoken of
+in this business was the abandonment of the church of
+St. Etienne, which might and ought to have been maintained.
+The fifth division were but just on duty there,
+and scarcely knew their posts. General Hay met the
+men running back from it, and was stopping and leading
+them on again, telling them he would show them how to
+defend the church, when he was killed. Some of the
+muskets of our men were found there, broken by the
+French, and thrown away unfired. An English officer,
+with about twenty men, maintained himself in a house
+near the church the whole time, though it was much less
+defensible than the church.</p>
+
+<p>Our position there, close under the works, it is said,
+was liable to such a sortie every night, and some well-informed
+persons wonder it did not take place sooner.
+General Hope’s eager courage led him into a situation
+where, I am told, no one could under ordinary circumstances
+remain the shortest time without almost a
+certainty of destruction. Even as it was, it is said that
+a party of Guards ought to have carried him off, as at
+first only four Frenchmen were near him when his horse
+fell, and the Guards then were close by. The French
+had made the outworks of the citadel very strong; they
+must have been stormed first, which would have cost us
+about twelve or fifteen thousand men. It would then
+have taken sixteen days to establish batteries on the crest
+of the glacis, the only possible way of breaching the
+citadel. The garrison, who are now excessively bold, and
+who have demanded rations for nineteen thousand two<span class="pagenum" id="Page_527">[Pg 527]</span>
+hundred men, say they should have even then stood a
+storming twice—in the citadel, and again in the town at
+last.</p>
+
+<p>Making all due allowance for this gasconading, it is
+quite as well to have been saved the necessity of taking
+Bayonne. It would have taken all our transports about
+sixteen days to bring up materials for four days’ open
+trenches from Passages by land, and we must then, for
+the remainder of the time, have trusted to the uncertainty
+of the water communication. The object of the French
+sortie was supposed to be the destruction of our three
+stores of fascines and gabions, &amp;c., which we had been
+six weeks and more cutting, collecting, and forming, and
+for which purpose we had stripped the environs for near
+five miles round the town. In that respect we were
+quite prepared for the whole siege, and it is remarkable
+enough that we remained nearly all that time sufficiently
+near the French works to form the first parallel, and that
+without making works to protect ourselves, because doing
+so would only have drawn down a fire which no works
+could have enabled us to live under, and there was nothing
+to be done but to remain as quiet as possible until the
+siege began. Had we withdrawn at all, the French
+having seen the importance of the ground, which we got
+as it were almost by accident, would have made it necessary
+to begin the siege by the storming of the works
+they would soon have made there. Thus we were obliged
+to keep what we had got, unless resolved to turn the
+whole into blockade. The French engineers admire our
+bridge very much, and say it will figure in military history;
+but their officers in general in Bayonne have
+hitherto been very sulky, and we are yet by no means
+friends. Very little accommodation is afforded us in
+any way.</p>
+
+<p>We are infinitely obliged to Bonaparte for having
+lost his head, and blundered as he did latterly, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_528">[Pg 528]</span>
+suffered the Allies to enter Paris, and put an end to the
+war. Had he succeeded at Paris, or had Soult and
+Suchet united succeeded against us here, near the shores
+of the Mediterranean, where our next conflict would have
+been, you would have found, when a retreat became
+necessary, and that the French saw that way out of their
+difficulties, instead of a return to royalty, that we should
+have had the other party, and that a strong one, uppermost,
+and a cry the other way, with parties in our rear.
+Thinking, as we do, the French army, and a great part
+of the French nation, quite as much responsible and to
+blame as Bonaparte, for a considerable portion of the
+misery caused by France (for to effect this they were his
+willing agents so long as it was out of France, and only
+deserted him when he was in distress, and because his
+good fortune had left him, and by no means from principle)—thinking
+this, their excess of loyalty only disgusts
+us. Of course we are glad to promote it, but must
+despise the majority of the Bourbon shouters—a few
+honourable individuals, and a small party, of course,
+excepted.</p>
+
+<p><em>Friday, 13th May.</em>—Lord Wellington not yet returned,
+and the late very warm weather turned to a
+steady rain. The Paris papers of the 8th, received this
+morning, make Lord Wellington ambassador in France,
+and a Duke.</p>
+
+<p>I was last night at the play to see <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">La Reine de Golconde</i>,
+an opera, with some pretty music. I mention this
+merely on account of a curious circumstance attending it.
+A French General, according to the story, fights for the
+deposed Queen and restores her. The troops of this
+French General and liberator were a part of the grenadier
+company of our Scotch <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">sans culottes</i> here in their own
+costume; and as they marched past, commanded and
+headed by the French General in the full costume of a
+general officer of Bonaparte’s army, the house immediately<span class="pagenum" id="Page_529">[Pg 529]</span>
+applauded the English heroes. The sensations of
+the French officers present must have been strange, and
+not very agreeable. These Scotchmen are considered by
+all the inhabitants (particularly of the town) as having
+had the principal share in their defeats in sight of the
+town. The mutes, bearers, and others in the procession
+were all English soldiers.</p>
+
+<p>We have had no disturbances or quarrels here, and
+our officers seem all to have behaved with considerable
+propriety; in short, the inhabitants dread our departure,
+and the return of their own people. They say that all
+order ceases, and all security, the moment our side of the
+line of demarcation is passed. One furious old gentleman
+at the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">café</i> this morning said publicly, that he thought
+the only regret was, that the war had not lasted three
+months longer, to destroy the remainder of the French
+brigands; and that as for Soult, he should have been sent
+in here, that the women might cut pieces out of his flesh
+with their scissors, and that he might afterwards have
+been executed publicly for his conduct to this city.</p>
+
+<p><em>Saturday, Post-day.</em>—Lord Wellington returned in
+the middle of the night, and, having had a cold, that and
+the effects of his journey make him look rather thin.
+He has been so taken up with business that I only saw
+him for a moment. Report says that he leaves us again
+in a day or two. I shall, if possible, ask leave, on our
+arrival at Bordeaux, to be independent, and find my own
+way home: yet I believe it would be best to go home
+with the army.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Toulouse, May 21, 1814.</em>—Immediately
+after my last, Lord Wellington left us for Madrid.
+Nearly every one has quitted the army; I mean the
+great men, generals, &amp;c. We are reduced to a few quiet
+parties and have no events to observe upon, and see no
+strangers to write about; everything is tame and stupid
+and the weather growing hot makes us languid and idle.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_530">[Pg 530]</span></p>
+
+<p>Lord Wellington, on his return here, was absolutely
+overwhelmed with business, and every department was at
+work in a sort of confusion and hurry that has never
+happened before.</p>
+
+<p>On Sunday, the Duke gave a splendid ball and supper
+at the Prefêt’s or Palais Royal, where everything went
+off much as usual. The ladies dressed well, and danced
+admirably; and the supper was not a matter of mere form
+with them. Their early dinners, and their greater
+exertion in dancing, make them certainly more voracious
+than our fair ones.</p>
+
+<p>On Monday, the Marquess of Buckingham returned,
+and was introduced to his new cousin of Wellington.
+The latter seemed, I understand, not a little surprised at
+being embraced and saluted on the cheek by his new
+relative. He had not been in the habit of receiving
+those embraces <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">à la mode Française</i>, and, I take it,
+prefers very much the kind attentions of the fair ones
+here, with whom he is an universal favourite.</p>
+
+<p>On Monday the Marquess of Buckingham dined with
+him, as well as a large party of French and English. I
+was of the number, and we all went to a concert of very
+moderate music in the evening at the Capitolium. The
+Duke at eight the next morning was off for Madrid. He
+intends to rejoin us at Bordeaux, and then to return
+through Paris, and to be in London about the 10th of
+June. This is a great deal too much, and I think
+almost impossible. These exertions make him look thin
+and rather worn; but he was very gay, and in excellent
+spirits whilst here.</p>
+
+<p>The American party was all settled by him finally, and
+is all on the road to Bordeaux, or now there. It will be
+of about nine or ten thousand men, I should think, and
+strong in artillery. Our faithful six 18-pounders, which
+have marched all the way from Lisbon since this day
+twelvemonth! on roads which never have, I think, or<span class="pagenum" id="Page_531">[Pg 531]</span>
+will see such animals again, were embarked yesterday on
+the Garonne, for Bordeaux, to be of the party; and their
+little grand-children, the mountain guns, go also. At
+first the expedition was by no means popular, but is now
+tolerably so, and the staff appointments have been of
+course much in request. Lord Fitzroy Somerset, who is
+the great manager of all this, and prime minister, has
+been very busy, and we have all the intrigues of a little
+court in miniature. Those who have been long here on
+the staff, and with high brevet rank, will feel much a
+return to their regimental duty and rank, and still more
+if their fate be half-pay? I hear of nothing except all
+this, and the schemes to get provided for. The regimental
+officers are those who like this new expedition the
+least.</p>
+
+<p>On seeing the Duke of Wellington the last time, I
+said, I concluded he would wish me to go down to Bordeaux
+with the army. He answered, “Oh, yes, you had
+better.” We are already almost without Generals. We
+shall remain here, it is said, some days yet. The orders,
+however, are all given for our movement as soon after we
+receive official news of the garrison of Figueras having
+marched for France as possible. In the mean time all
+wounded, &amp;c., are moving now. The cavalry also are to
+set out on their way overland to England as soon as the
+French Government have finally agreed to that arrangement.
+I should not at all dislike to march with this
+party. The Portuguese troops remain with the British
+until the Commissaries can part entirely with the mule
+transport. They then separate, taking all the mules and
+muleteers with them attached to different regiments for
+rations, &amp;c., and set out through Spain for Portugal, a
+good three months’ trip, the weather growing warmer and
+warmer all the way, to the great enjoyment, I conclude,
+of the natives. At Almeida the muleteers have been
+promised to be paid all their arrears.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_532">[Pg 532]</span></p>
+
+<p>The British from hence are to encamp near Bordeaux,
+ready to be off as transports arrive. The Spaniards move
+out of France the first of all, at the signal of Figueras, to
+the joy of all parties. The Guards and troops at Bayonne
+are likely to be the last, for they are to remain until all
+stores, wounded, &amp;c., are clear out of the Adour and St.
+Jean de Luz, &amp;c. The people here will be very sorry to
+lose us, partly from the loss of the money spent here, and
+partly from their dread of those who will succeed us—their
+own countrymen.</p>
+
+<p>I understand General Clausel was the only one of the
+French here who admitted the truth that they were fairly
+beaten into taking their King. The others feel it, but
+will not own it, and are very sulky in consequence; and
+in general not civil to our officers. Some of the French
+gens-d’armes are expected on Monday in this town to do
+duty, I believe, to levy taxes, &amp;c. It is to be hoped that
+this will not lead to quarrels with our men.</p>
+
+<p>The continuance of the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Droits réunis</i> is very unpopular,
+and, in my opinion, the effervescence of loyalty is somewhat
+subsiding already. We all expect disturbances also
+in Spain. I hope the Duke will resign his command,
+and have nothing to do with either party. It is said
+even the armies are divided, and ours here (Frere’s) is for
+the Cortes. What with Spain, Ireland, Norway, America,
+and perhaps the interior of France, the world will
+after all, it is feared, not be in that state of profound
+peace which was generally expected.</p>
+
+<p>Yesterday and to-day I have received letters from you
+of the 3rd and 10th of May, and papers to the latter date,
+which contain precisely the same news as those from
+London through Paris. There seems to be nothing very
+important either way.</p>
+
+<p>I have just got the papers relating to a most extraordinary
+story of a murder at Lisbon. It is a most
+complete novel, and would be incredibly romantic as<span class="pagenum" id="Page_533">[Pg 533]</span>
+such. A Commissary named R—— had an English girl
+(a lady) who lived with him. Another Commissary
+named S——, his friend, had long been living in the
+same house with him. After a time Mr. R—— conceived
+that Mr. S—— was undermining the affections of
+the lady. He taxes her with it, she confesses, and says
+she has promised to live with S——, but swears nothing
+improper had ever passed. Mr. R—— persuades her to
+give up this scheme, stating how dishonourably S——
+had betrayed him, his friend. He then tells this friend
+his discovery, and upbraids him. S—— says that the
+lady has been faithless to R——, and is the betrayer.
+R——, in despair, is going to quit the house, the lady,
+and the whole connexion; but he previously repeats to
+her what Mr. S—— told him. She solemnly denies it,
+and then goes out with S——. I should have mentioned
+that the three had just before this conversation ridden
+out together without speaking, and sat together at dinner
+without speaking or eating. The explanation between
+R—— and the lady then took place, immediately after
+which S—— and the lady went out of the house. Three
+pistol-shots are heard. R—— goes into the garden,
+finds his mistress shot dead. S—— ran by him into the
+house apparently wounded, his handkerchief to his head.
+He forced his way to a table-drawer, took out a razor,
+and cut his throat quite across. He still survived both
+wounds when the account came away, and deliberately
+confesses in writing that by the lady’s desire, by their
+joint consent and agreement, he was to kill both; her
+first, and then himself. This he endeavoured to accomplish,
+but in vain as to himself. Mr. R—— declines
+telling who the lady is, except in a court of justice, in
+order to prevent unnecessary pain to her friends in
+England.</p>
+
+<p>I have been asked, “What is to be done?” and whether,
+if the delinquent is mad, I thought that he must<span class="pagenum" id="Page_534">[Pg 534]</span>
+be tried for the murder? It surely was very unfortunate
+that the poor man had not been left in the hands of the
+Portuguese surgeons and doctors, who pronounced him a
+dead man, and his wounds incurable. The skill of an
+English surgeon has unluckily enabled this unhappy being
+to stand the chance of either being hung or confined for
+life as a madman for the rest of his days.</p>
+
+<p><em>The 22nd, Post-day.</em>—I send you, being dull myself,
+a part of a <cite>Gazette de France</cite>, which paper I take in
+regularly. Some part of the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Franc parleur</i> is well done.
+The same feelings exist here in the army. Were I a
+French officer I should feel in the same way.</p>
+
+<p>We have now rain, and the weather cooler again:
+hitherto it has not been ever very unpleasantly hot,
+though at times above our summer heat, and with rain
+and without sun at 69°.</p>
+
+<p>You ask me in your last letter about religion and
+manners here? The former seems again much what it
+was before the Revolution. The churches are in general
+well attended, but principally (as the case is all over the
+world, I believe,) by your sex in particular of all ages, by
+the very old of both sexes, who go there to make their
+peace; and the very young who are taken there by their
+older friends and relations. With regard to manners, the
+old French memoirs would still, I think, apply very
+tolerably to the description of their present state, except
+that the same things are done and said with rather more
+coarseness perhaps now than in old times.</p>
+
+<p>Our cavalry have not moved yet, as the approval of the
+French Government has not arrived. They are intended
+to move in two columns, one up the Paris road, nearly
+through Cahors, &amp;c.; the other more to the left, through
+Angoulême, Poictiers, and to unite at a town on the Seine.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Toulouse, May 27th, 1814.</em>—My new
+friends and acquaintance fall off daily around me, and
+our party at head-quarters is continually on the decline.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_535">[Pg 535]</span></p>
+
+<p>I am not a little amused with the Toulouse paper of
+yesterday. We, the English, have been for these last
+six weeks praised to the skies, and treated as, and called
+the deliverers of Toulouse city and its inhabitants.
+Soult’s troops are now expected in here in a few days,
+and the gens-d’armes have actually arrived. The Toulouse
+<cite>Gazette</cite>, therefore, exhorts the inhabitants to receive with
+open arms and to feast, and entertain those brave troops,
+whose courage and noble conduct they witnessed on the
+hills, above this city, when fighting for the defence of
+the inhabitants. They also assure the public, that the
+statement in an early number of the <cite>Gazette</cite>, that
+Marshal Soult owed the safety of his retreat to the clemency
+of Lord Wellington, under whose guns the French
+troops filed off, was all an error and mistake (as it certainly
+was), and that the retreat was in fact as secure as the
+defence of the heights was noble and courageous. Had
+we had but about five thousand more men up, to cross the
+canal at once, this might have been another story. The
+<cite>Gazette</cite> should have waited until we were off.</p>
+
+<p>I dined yesterday with a Monsieur Castellan, a gentleman
+of very good fortune, and who, I understand, has a
+good house, pictures, library, &amp;c., at Paris, and lands in
+Normandy and elsewhere. He was formerly, at the
+commencement of the Revolution, Attorney-general to
+the Parliament of Toulouse, and on that account desired
+to be introduced to me, and gave us an excellent dinner.
+In 1781, he was a man who figured much here, and also
+in the English papers, on account of his early resistance
+to the orders of the Court, and being imprisoned in consequence.
+He was followed by all the inhabitants to his
+prison, and released in a short time by the triumph of his
+own party. He seems to be a good constitutionalist.</p>
+
+<p>He mentioned several curious facts of Bonaparte’s
+tyranny, such as his putting persons to death without
+trial, and without inquiry. Two of these persons he<span class="pagenum" id="Page_536">[Pg 536]</span>
+knew in particular. They were chiefs of La Vendée.
+When all the hopes of that party were gone, terms were
+offered to these two men. One came in to sign them,
+when he was instantly shot. The other, in consequence,
+remained concealed three years in Normandy. At last
+he was told privately, that if he would retire from the
+country quietly, a passport should be given to him. He
+agreed, received his pass, and made for the coast; but
+when he arrived near the sea-side two gens-d’armes shot
+him.</p>
+
+<p>This made a noise; the Juge de Paix began a <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">procès
+verbal</i>, and the Préfet was active in endeavouring to
+apprehend the soldiers. The Judge and Préfet were not
+in the secret. Suddenly a senator came from Paris.
+The Préfet was suspended from his office, and the Juge
+de Paix enjoined at his peril not to stir a step in the
+business. Monsieur Castellan’s servant acted as clerk in
+the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">procès verbal</i> which had commenced, and the murder
+took place close to his estate in Normandy. He therefore,
+he said, knew the facts.</p>
+
+<p>Another story, for the truth of which he vouched, and
+which from the circumstances appeared to be true, shows
+a little the state of Napoleon’s court and their morals. A
+young cousin of Monsieur de Castellan was the Emperor’s
+page—a very good-looking boy. At the carnival he was
+dressed as a girl at the play, and one of the grand chamberlains
+fell in love with him. The page continued the
+disguise and the joke every night during the carnival,
+and was courted and fêted with presents by the lover.
+At last the discovery was made, and the mortified chamberlain
+stopped the boy’s promotion in consequence,
+under the pretence that the page was ordered not to go
+to the play.</p>
+
+<p>I wished very much to have had time during my visit
+to Monsieur Castellan to look over a very curious collection
+of original letters which he had in portfolios, and of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_537">[Pg 537]</span>
+which I looked at one or two only. The most valuable
+were of the Valois family, and were numerous and confidential,
+coming to M. Castellan through a great-uncle,
+and derived from an ambassador of the family in Spain.
+There were several from Catherine de Medicis, mostly
+about the marriage of her daughters with the Spanish
+royal family, and which (as she had good occasion to do)
+she always finished by desiring might be burnt as soon
+as read.</p>
+
+<p>The eldest daughter was first sent, being intended for
+the son, Don Carlos, but Philip the Second took a fancy
+to her, and though the son was in love, married her. An
+intrigue was suspected with the son, as the daughter was
+also in love with Don Carlos; the finale was, as history
+records and romance writers have improved upon, that
+Don Carlos and the lady suffered death. After this, and
+knowing, as she must have done, the cause, or at least the
+reports of all suspected, Catherine writes, saying that she
+must forget the mother in the Queen, and proposes to
+make up a match between King Philip and her youngest
+daughter. The writer desires the person addressed to get
+at the King’s mistress and his confessor, and to secure
+them both as friends to her plans. The remaining letters
+were those of eminent men, some from Rousseau, Voltaire,
+&amp;c., and appeared to contain nothing particularly
+interesting.</p>
+
+<p>A few days since I think I half made a convert of a fat
+silversmith’s lady here, of whom I was purchasing some
+articles. She asked me if we had a religion in England
+at all like theirs. I said, “Yes; very like.” “But,”
+said she (and that weighed very much with her), “you do
+not use these great silver cups, &amp;c., in your country?”
+To this I replied, “Indeed we do, and want them much
+larger than you do in France, for with us we let every
+one taste that pleases of the wine, and you only let the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_538">[Pg 538]</span>
+priests.” This rather staggered her, when the sale of the
+cups and sacramental plate came into her head.</p>
+
+<p><em>May 28th, Saturday, Post-day.</em>—Our cavalry have at
+last got leave to pass through France, and will commence
+their route on the 1st of June. It is probable that we
+shall move soon after. I have this moment received a
+packet from you, with papers and enclosures to the 16th,
+and having your letter now before me, will go through it
+in answer. The alarms you mention about the quarrels
+between the Allies, and the French, and the army, and
+the National Guards, seem to have been principally of
+English invention. We have heard little of this matter
+here, though I have no doubt that the French officers
+and soldiers are vexed and mortified, and as the Irish say
+sometimes, they would easily “pick a quarrel” just now,
+when they meet with any occasion. There is the same
+feeling here, only hitherto scarcely any officers of the
+army have arrived.</p>
+
+<p>I witnessed last Sunday a quarrel between a gend’arme
+and a garde-urbaine, about cutting off some acacia
+blossoms in the public walk. The latter was disarmed at
+last, after a scuffle and fight, in which, from the noise and
+confusion, you would have supposed several limbs and
+lives would have been lost (as would have been the case
+in half the time in England), but in which in reality no
+one seemed to come out the worse. The gend’arme, however,
+was very neatly beaten at last, as two of the garde-urbaine
+overtook him again, and whilst one tried to wrest
+the conquered sword back again, the other cut the belt of
+the gend’arme, by which his own sword fell, and in
+recovering that he lost the trophy, with which the two
+lads made off in triumph.</p>
+
+<p>An officer of the French regular army who was here
+by accident a few days since, saw the caricature of Bonaparte
+in a window, the face made up of “<em>victimes</em>,” with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_539">[Pg 539]</span>
+the cobwebs, &amp;c., introduced, which I conclude you have
+seen. He entered the shop in a rage, and desired the
+shopman to take it from the window, threatening to cut
+him down if he refused. It has not appeared in the
+window since, and the man when now asked for the
+print by an Englishman or Royalist, says, “They are all
+sold.”</p>
+
+<p>The Duke of Wellington’s misfortune from the Cossack
+charge I have not heard of here. He came back
+most highly admiring and praising the Russian cavalry
+as in appearance the best in Europe, and saying there
+was scarcely a private horse in the regiment he saw for
+which a short time ago we should not willingly have
+given a hundred and fifty or two hundred guineas in
+Spain. The draught and artillery horses, also, though
+very small, and unlike those of the cavalry, he thought
+had great appearance of hardiness and activity. Some of
+your other stories concerning us here are really, in my
+opinion, mere inventions.</p>
+
+<p>By-the-by, what inventions and scandal we shall have
+now to fill the newspapers and afford conversation for all
+our idlers! As soon as peace is signed, they will have
+little else but that to live upon; whilst the politician
+must pore over all the debates of the multiplied popular
+assemblies in modern Europe, which will all be aping our
+House of Commons.</p>
+
+<p>Our clergy here were ten days ago praying for rain,
+and they have not sued in vain, for we have had it for
+this week in showers only, and in the English fashion,
+not like our mountain and St. Jean de Luz rain. We
+have also had tremendous storms of wind, which were
+not prayed for; and more than that, a bit of an earthquake,
+felt principally at Pau and in that vicinity, but, it
+is said, by some perceived here. It is not surprising that
+old Mother Earth should just at first shake a little at all
+that has passed lately; but I hope she will take it quietly,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_540">[Pg 540]</span>
+and be as peaceably inclined as her inhabitants now are.
+The recovery of the balance of Europe will be a fine
+subject for an essay. This superiority over the ancient
+associated states of Greece, which when once upset never
+could right themselves again, is a matter of considerable
+triumph for the moderns, and promises to check for some
+time another age of barbarism. I should say that one
+great cause of this has been the more general diffusion of
+knowledge amongst the middling classes. Public opinion
+and more fixed principles of the advantages of independence,
+have got the better at last of a system of universal
+tyranny of the most ingenious and complicated
+nature, and extending to every individual, and every
+hole and corner within its clutches. I must now seal up
+for the post.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_541">[Pg 541]</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXIX">CHAPTER XXIX.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="fs80" style="margin-left: 2em; text-indent: -2em;">Preparations for Departure—Bordeaux—Imposition on the English—Greetings
+from the Women—Mausoleum of Louis XVI.</p>
+
+<p class="right fs80">
+Wednesday, June 1, 1814.<br>
+<span style="padding-right: 2em">Toulouse.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="no-indent"><span class="smcap">My dear M——</span>,
+</p>
+
+<p><span style="padding-left: 2em">Here</span> we are still, but on the point of moving.
+The orders are actually out, and our route fixed. We
+start on Saturday, the 4th of June, I suspect on purpose
+to avoid festivities on that day. On the 10th we hope
+to be at Bordeaux: 4th, Isle en Jourdain; 5th, Auch;
+6th, Condom; 7th, halt; 8th, Castel Jelous; 9th,
+Langon; 10th, Bordeaux. This will be sharp work for
+loaded mules, and warm for us all, for the weather is now
+clearing up, and promises to be hot again.</p>
+
+<p>I am tired of Toulouse, and not sorry to leave it,
+though the inhabitants continue to be civil and friendly.
+So indeed they ought to be, as they have made no little
+money out of us, and have been continually entertained
+by balls, &amp;c. Since the Duke has been away we have
+had three balls given by the Adjutant-general, General
+Byng, and by the aides-de-camp. At last I was, by accident,
+introduced to a Madame de Vaudreuil. She was
+it turns out, wife to the son of the old admiral, our
+<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">emigré</i> Marquis in England, and your cousin. I was
+then introduced to the husband, and we had some conversation
+on family matters. He mentioned his nephew,
+the aide-de-camp in Ireland, and inquired much after the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_542">[Pg 542]</span>
+Hochepieds, &amp;c. To-morrow I am to breakfast with
+them, and you shall hear more. He is a little man, but
+high, and in repute here.</p>
+
+<p>No events of any consequence have occurred. The
+only thing at all worth mentioning which I can recollect
+is a trait of the conduct of the French lower officers of
+Soult’s army. Two of the officers of the 43rd British
+rode towards Montauban a few days since, out of their
+own limits, without a passport. This, though foolish
+just now, was a venial offence, and committed by many
+French, who come in here within our line of demarcation.
+On a bridge near the town our two gentlemen
+were met by about eight or ten, not gentlemen, but
+officers of the French garrison there. The latter immediately
+attacked the two British officers rudely, told them
+that they ought to know better their own limits, and
+added at last that if they intended to come again, they
+advised them to come with their coats off, sleeves turned
+up, and swords drawn. One man actually went so far
+as to come behind one of our officers to knock his hat off,
+that he might get out the white cockade; in short, the
+two Englishmen were obliged to yield and return back.</p>
+
+<p>An apology was, it is said, sent in to our General, from
+the commanding officer at Montauban, stating that he
+was sorry for what had happened, and hoping we would
+consider it as the act of some <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">mauvais sujets</i> in the lower
+commissioned ranks of the army, and not the act of, or
+sanctioned by, the garrison in general. I believe, however,
+that it is intended still to make some remonstrance
+on the subject.</p>
+
+<p>Dr. Macgregor has returned here, delighted with his
+trip to Montpelier, Avignon, Nismes, Valence, &amp;c. He
+was received most cordially everywhere, and at some
+places quite enthusiastically. Almost at every place, he fell
+in with fêtes and entertainments in consequence of the late
+changes, and the whole country was covered with conscripts<span class="pagenum" id="Page_543">[Pg 543]</span>
+and deserters going home: he thinks he must have
+seen from ten to fifteen thousand. Everywhere, he found
+much jealousy between the military, the national guards,
+and the civilians, as is the case here. There were several
+quarrels in consequence. At the playhouse at Montpelier
+the applause was so violent at a new popular piece called
+“The Conscript,” that a French General, who was there
+with his suite, conceived it a marked insult to himself
+and rose to leave the house, but was persuaded to remain.</p>
+
+<p>The Society of Medicine at Montpelier made the
+Doctor a member, with such fine speeches, that even
+though he only half understood them, they raised his
+blushes.</p>
+
+<p><em>Friday, June 3rd.</em>—In the midst of the bustle and
+confusion of my preparations for the march of to-morrow,
+I received this day your letter and papers to the 24th of
+May. I had just been reading in to-day’s French paper
+London news of the same date, so that, even this late
+mail, of only nine or ten days from London, brought
+us nothing new politically from England. The details,
+however, and private news are always interesting. I
+shall have more occasion for them as I am going the road
+on this (the Toulouse) side of the Garonne, instead of our
+military route, and shall be nearly, if not quite, alone, for
+almost every other person who goes this way intends to
+travel post, or ride faster than would suit me this warm
+weather. This road is said to be by far the most picturesque,
+rich, and amusing; and, having a passport ready,
+I mean to start at five to-morrow. My route is through
+Grisolles, Castel Sarazin, Monteil, Moissac, Agen, Port
+St. Marie (where I shall try and see our <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">emigré</i> friend,
+the Baron de Trenqueléon), Tomeirs, Reolle; then, if
+necessary, cross the river to Langon, but if not, keep the
+right bank, opposite Bordeaux. I have sent my baggage
+and Henry on in the line of march, and only take a Portuguese
+<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">ci-devant</i> servant to the Prince of Orange, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_544">[Pg 544]</span>
+now mine, on a pony, with a small valise, and intend to
+trust to the inns for everything. Thus I shall avoid
+troops, and nearly all places through which they have
+passed.</p>
+
+<p>The last detachment of cavalry will leave this to-morrow,
+to start to Grisolles and Montauban on Sunday.
+The Hussars in advance leave Montauban to-day. The
+last infantry will move from hence on Sunday; and the
+whole infantry from hence will be assembled at Bordeaux
+(excepting what may be embarked) by the 17th of June.
+The last Portuguese will pass Bayonne about the 23rd;
+and then the Guards and troops there will be at liberty
+to move—not before. The Spaniards are nearly all out
+of the country already!</p>
+
+<p>Sir W. W. Wynne has been here these last five or six
+days, to succeed the Marquess of Buckingham; they are
+specimens of what are considered our greatest peers and
+commoners. The people here stare at them, and look
+strange. The inhabitants are seriously sorry for our
+departure, I really believe. We had a sort of farewell
+party at the Duke’s house yesterday, given by Colonel C.
+Campbell, of all the great men here: we dined, then went
+to the play, and then to the ball. Some of our Generals
+are so pleased that they talk seriously of returning here
+after peace is signed, and they have laid by their laurels
+in England. Having so many things to do, I must now
+end this, and leave it to go by the post, for I shall be
+away from head-quarters, and the regular post, perhaps,
+next mail. Do not be surprised if you do not hear again
+very soon. On my arrival at Bordeaux I shall endeavour
+to write immediately, and let you know my plans.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Bordeaux, June 13th, 1814.</em>—On
+Saturday (11th), I sent you a few hasty lines, I will now
+try and fill up the interval from Toulouse here, with an
+account of my proceedings during that time.</p>
+
+<p>After a tremendous thunder-storm, at six in the morning<span class="pagenum" id="Page_545">[Pg 545]</span>
+of the 4th of June, I started along the rich plain in
+which Toulouse stands, and proceeded through Grisolles,
+and a number of small places, to Castle Sarazin; but not
+liking the appearance of the latter, I went on to Moissac,
+which is just across the Tarn, at which place the plain
+ceases, and the road becomes hilly.</p>
+
+<p>The distance was about forty-five miles to Moissac;
+the country all rich and fertile, but much too bare of
+wood, and the road is tiresome from its uniformly level
+character. The river ran the whole way, about half a
+mile from the road, and the opposite bank being high,
+bounded the view on that side, and formed a picturesque
+object, though not the most profitable, for the soil seemed
+less rich. The flat lands must be subject to great losses
+and damage from floods, as there is no fall for the sudden
+torrents which descend. The corn in many places had
+suffered much this year.</p>
+
+<p>At Grisolles, I passed the last of the cavalry (the Blues)
+on their way home. The Life Guards entered Montauban
+with laurels. The Préfet immediately told the commanding
+officer, that he understood his men were come
+into the town in a triumphant manner, and seemed much
+vexed, until reminded that it was the 4th of June, when
+he became civil, and admitted the validity of the reason.
+On stopping at the village of Fignan, to give my horses
+some corn, I was very glad to find the inhabitants
+regretting the departure of the Portuguese regiment
+which had been quartered there, as they had behaved so
+well. They told me the people cried when they crossed
+the water, and the next day so many soldiers came back
+to take another farewell of their new friends, that the
+officers were compelled to place a guard to prevent it.</p>
+
+<p>The Tarn at Moissac was wide, and the current very
+strong. The passage by the ferry, a troublesome one,
+backwards and forwards, through the remains of the
+ruined buttresses of an old bridge. On landing I asked<span class="pagenum" id="Page_546">[Pg 546]</span>
+for the Commandant or French General. There had
+been unpleasant altercations of late near that place and
+neighbourhood. The officer of whom I inquired pointed
+to General Key, the late governor of St. Sebastian, who
+happened to be near. I announced myself to him, and
+was received civilly by him, and then immediately went
+to the inn.</p>
+
+<p>The only sights noticeable in the town are a great
+water-mill in the river, with about twenty-four pair of
+mill-stones, and a number of establishments for purifying
+wheat and preparing flour. These last were on a large
+scale, but without machinery of any ingenuity, and one
+steam-engine would have saved them nearly all their
+labour, which was great. The country round is famous
+as a corn country, and Moissac was once a great place of
+export for flour and wheat by the canal, &amp;c., of Toulouse,
+to Montpelier, and by the Tarn and Garonne to Bordeaux,
+and thence to the French islands and foreign settlements.
+The inhabitants wished much to begin dealing with the
+English; but I told them that our Parliament was about
+to prevent that taking place.</p>
+
+<p>There is a curious old church at Moissac with many
+carved grotesque figures at the entrance. The style is
+nearly the old English, but in some places, the early
+Gothic. The accommodation at the inns is very good;
+but the joke of Milord Anglois has commenced, and is
+increasing fast. We were all <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">mon Commandant</i> and <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">mon
+Général</i>; and paid accordingly.</p>
+
+<p>The next day, on leaving Moissac, I ascended a long
+hill, and continued on rich high ground above the river,
+in a country of cultivated, undulating scenery, with more
+wood, somewhat resembling Devonshire or Somersetshire,
+with the exception of the want of hedges. This continued
+about seven miles, when I came down again, having a
+fine view of the river, and continued my way along the
+banks over a rich flat through several villages and small<span class="pagenum" id="Page_547">[Pg 547]</span>
+towns to Agen, about thirty-four miles from Moissac.
+The valley was here much narrower and varied than that
+at Toulouse, bounded on both sides by gentle hills, cultivated
+and rich, as well as apparently populous, along the
+whole way. The French troops were in cantonments in
+every village, and in general looked very sulky. A few
+touched their caps to me, as I was in my scarlet uniform;
+but most looked sulky and took no notice. I was, however,
+never insulted. The cries of the children all the
+way, and often of the country-women, and sometimes of
+the men, of <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">vivent les Anglois!</i> certainly did not contribute
+to put their soldiers and officers in better humour. If so
+disposed, I could easily, as the Irish say, “have picked a
+quarrel.”</p>
+
+<p>At Agen all was gaiety and bustle. It was the
+Sunday before their great fair; and all was preparing for
+that, as well as for the service which was to take place in
+the great church the next day for Louis XVI., the
+Queen, &amp;c. I immediately went to the Commandant of
+the town. He was civil, but the numerous officers looked
+very much disposed to be impertinent, if occasion should
+offer. The eager curiosity of the townspeople to see the
+English, and to be civil, was very pleasing; every one
+seemed anxious to show some attention. Here I fell in
+with Dr. M—— and Mr. and Mrs. J——, and after
+dining together, we went to the play.</p>
+
+<p>It was a little narrow theatre, but almost new, and
+very clean and neat. The performances were not despicable.
+There was a good-looking singer, with no bad
+voice, from Bordeaux. In the character she acted much
+happened to be said of her innocence and inexperience.
+From the constant joking this gave rise to in the
+audience, and from some very prominent feature in her
+person, I conclude that she had lately been under the
+necessity of retiring from Bordeaux, from some little<span class="pagenum" id="Page_548">[Pg 548]</span>
+<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">faux pas</i>. And this, I was told afterwards, was the
+case.</p>
+
+<p>Agen is an old and rather shabby town of about ten or
+eleven thousand inhabitants; but the walks and country
+around it are picturesque. The next morning I staid
+until after the ceremony had commenced in the church,
+and peeped in, to see what was going on, and whether
+the military attended. Many of the latter did so, with
+crape round their arms. I was immediately admitted
+without a ticket; and the old priests, several of whom
+had been <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">émigrés</i>, and spoke a little English, were very
+civil to me. About twenty milliners had made really a
+very elegant linen and crape mausoleum for the occasion,
+nearly twenty feet high. Four fluted pillars, one at each
+corner, were made of fine white linen, the festoons round
+the base were of black and white crape, urns on the pillars,
+and other ornaments of the same. About a hundred
+and fifty wax candles were arranged up the steps on every
+side of the tomb, and above it were lilies springing fresh
+from the centre, and the crown, in elegant crape, suspended
+above the whole.</p>
+
+<p>About ten o’clock I started again to find out the
+Baron de Trenqueléon at Port St. Marie, which was
+about twelve miles from Agen. On inquiry at the inn,
+I found a friend of his son’s who had left him only a few
+hours before. I, therefore, determined to cross the river
+again, in order to pay him a visit, and to stay there the
+night. Trenqueléon Chateau is about five miles from
+Port St. Marie, on the road thence to Nerac, on the side
+of the hills which enclose the valley in which the
+Garonne descends. It is old-fashioned, in the style of
+the Tuileries, and apparently large. In reality, it does
+not contain much room, but is a comfortable place.</p>
+
+<p>Except two higher wings, it is, in fact, only a ground-floor
+house. The rooms are lofty, spacious, and decently<span class="pagenum" id="Page_549">[Pg 549]</span>
+furnished for a French house in the country. There is
+a great square garden in front, like a wilderness full of
+weeds, with a square plantation and straight walks. The
+roads run about two hundred yards from it on one side,
+and a small river navigable for boats on the other, which
+runs into the Garonne about four miles below. This
+would be convenient to export the produce, if there were
+a market, which of late had been the case.</p>
+
+<p>I found the old Baron feeble, without the use of his
+limbs, in a great chair penned in like a child. He was
+surrounded by a large party—his wife, his son, and his
+son’s wife, daughter to the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">maire</i> of Agen; an old lady,
+whom I took for the Baron’s sister; and five young
+ladies, who called him “Papa.” One of these was in
+weeds, and one about twenty-five or thirty; the rest
+young. One was a fresh, ruddy, English-looking girl.
+All were most attentive and civil. The old Baron made
+me repeatedly kiss him, and cried several times as he
+conversed with me. He remembered all our friends in
+England during his emigration. He was very anxious
+to know all I could tell him of my brothers. He asked
+much after your sister and brother, and the T——
+family. His table was bad, but there was quantity, and
+a hearty welcome. I was put into his uncle’s room, our
+old friend the Bishop of Montpelier. His family seemed
+attentive to him, and, except at meal times, seemed to
+live around him, some at work, some reading the papers
+to him, and some sitting ready to talk, and with no other
+occupation. The poor girls must lead a very dull life in
+the Chateau de Trenqueléon, for from the state of the
+Baron’s health they do not go out to balls or amusements
+even at Agen.</p>
+
+<p>On the following morning I left Trenqueléon about
+twelve o’clock, and crossed the river again at a ferry near
+Aiguillon, which is a pretty town, small, but well situated.
+I got on to Tomeins that night. The country<span class="pagenum" id="Page_550">[Pg 550]</span>
+continues to be the same rich valley the whole way, and
+is very populous. Tomeins is a small ill-built town of
+perhaps about five thousand inhabitants. There is
+nothing of interest in it, except a fine sort of Richmond-terrace
+view from the public walk overhanging the river.
+The women struck us as very pretty, and they were
+peculiarly eager about “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">les Anglois</i>” one or two calling
+out in English, as we passed near the windows where
+they were, “How you do? how you do?” &amp;c., and then
+running away to hide themselves. And this came from
+well-dressed girls in good houses.</p>
+
+<p>On the 8th I proceeded through Marmande de la
+Reolle, to breakfast; and then crossing the river again
+near Langon, I intended to stop at the pretty village of
+Barsac, about five miles on this side Langon, where the
+good wine of that name comes from. Finding all this
+part full of our sixth division, just arrived, I was obliged
+to push on to Ceron, a mere post stage and a poor inn.</p>
+
+<p>On the 9th I proceeded to this place (Bordeaux), and
+arrived by one o’clock, when my order to proceed to Tarragona
+(for the trial of Sir J. Murray) was put into my
+hands. I found every one in the same hurry and confusion
+as when the Duke paid us his last visit at Toulouse.</p>
+
+<p>The country continued nearly the same until we got
+some way beyond Barsac; we then began to skirt the
+Landes, and had only sand and firs, a sort of Bagshot
+Heath, but still broken by frequent villages and chateaux,
+which are very numerous around Bordeaux.</p>
+
+<p>During my journey I always stopped at some small
+inn for a feed of corn in the course of the way, and also
+during rain, which was frequent and heavy. I gave the
+chance passengers their wine to make them talk. A
+drunken Frenchman seemed much like an English one,
+and was sometimes very entertaining; but the feeling of
+the soldiers was the most curious. At one place I found
+two discharged soldiers going home on leave; they said<span class="pagenum" id="Page_551">[Pg 551]</span>
+that they had been betrayed by their Generals, &amp;c., and
+that the game was up, so they had applied for their discharges,
+for they would not fight for the King. They
+had served seven or eight years, and now intended to be
+quiet, though their wounds would not have prevented
+their fighting for the Emperor. One had lost a finger
+only, the other had received a knock in the leg, which
+rather made him halt a little; they had both above sixteen
+months’ pay due to them, but said that they concluded,
+of course, the King would never pay the Emperor’s
+debts, and they were satisfied to be discharged
+without pensions. They said that nine-tenths of the
+soldiers of the army would have remained firm to the
+Emperor if their Generals had been faithful, and had
+agreed in opinion with them; “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">mais n’importe—c’est
+fini</i>.”</p>
+
+<p>The Trenqueléon party told me, they were for some
+time in great uneasiness, for we had no troops near them
+on the left bank of the river, and on the right bank only
+came down to the river Lot. Thus Agen was the centre
+of the formation of partisan corps who were to cross the
+river near them, and scour the country to annoy us.</p>
+
+<p>In three or four instances they succeeded in this; and
+the Commissioner was issuing most violent orders to
+compel all persons to form their corps immediately (these
+if caught by us would be hung), and to teach the women
+also, to entice our soldiers into their houses by wine, &amp;c.,
+to make them prisoners and kill them, and even to instruct
+their children to cut the back sinews of the horses
+in the stables at night, saying they must do as the
+Spaniards did by them in Spain.</p>
+
+<p>The Baron’s family said they had different feelings,
+but would have been compelled to do much of this had
+matters gone on. They also talked with much horror of
+the state of terror in which they had been kept by Bonaparte’s
+agents. One deputy Préfet some time since<span class="pagenum" id="Page_552">[Pg 552]</span>
+alarmed them by quietly telling some of their neighbours
+(who told them again) that they were in a terrible scrape,
+and had been detected corresponding with the English.
+They went instantly to the Préfet to know what this
+meant, and found it was one of my father’s letters about
+the Bishop of Montpelier’s affairs, which had been stopped
+by the police. My father was the Bishop’s executor in
+England. The Préfet afterwards told him to be easy—“<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">ce
+n’étoit rien</i>.” The Baron seems to have been a
+popular character in the neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p><em>12th, later.</em>—A mail goes to-day, and I have a pile of
+papers a foot high to arrange by to-morrow. The Duke
+goes away and leaves the army the day after, Wednesday
+the 14th, consequently all is a bustle of business, balls,
+dinners, operas, plays, all proceeding at once. My next
+will give you an account of this handsome town. I am
+in quarters at Monsieur Emerigon’s, a barrister now at
+Paris, but daily expected to return. The Duke has
+written strongly home to put off this intended Court-martial
+at Tarragona; all here detest it, and grumble.
+The worst is, that we are to remain here in suspense
+until an answer arrives.</p>
+
+<p>I am writing without my coat, and so are all the
+Duke’s Secretaries, &amp;c., on account of the heat. The
+thermometer shut up in my writing-desk is at 76°. The
+sun most ardent when out.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_553">[Pg 553]</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXX">CHAPTER XXX.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="fs80" style="margin-left: 2em; text-indent: -2em;">The Opera-house—The Cathedral—The Synagogue—A Jewish Wedding—Strange
+Show-house—Wellington and King Ferdinand.</p>
+
+<p class="right fs80">
+Head-quarters, Bordeaux,<br>
+<span style="padding-right: 2em">June 16, 1814.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="no-indent"><span class="smcap">My dear M——</span>,
+</p>
+
+<p><span style="padding-left: 2em">As</span> I have no news to communicate, you must be
+satisfied with the best account of Bordeaux which the
+excessive heat permits me to give you. The Duke is
+gone for good, and we are left here in a state of dull, and
+almost feverish uncertainty. Time slips away fast, however,
+and my fate will soon be decided.</p>
+
+<p>Before breakfast I take an hour’s ride to look about
+the town and suburbs, and make my observations. The
+restaurateurs are so hot that I prefer my own society
+and a mutton-chop with abundance of vegetables and
+fruit, and my bottle of claret or Sauterne, to the incessant
+dinners going on in public. My wine I get from
+the housekeeper of my landlord, Monsieur Emerigon, the
+counsellor, as she in his absence sells his produce for him—his
+wine, namely Sauterne Emerigon, which is really
+very good, his pigeons, his ortolans, his poultry, his
+cherries, his vegetables, &amp;c. As he has not yet returned
+from Paris, I have also taken possession of his <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">salle à
+manger</i>, and drawing-room, in addition to my bedroom.
+I only now want to get into his library. He is a
+royalist, and one of the commissioners sent from Bordeaux
+to Paris.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_554">[Pg 554]</span></p>
+
+<p>Bordeaux is a very handsome town, and very superior
+to Toulouse—as a city indeed there is no comparison;
+still in my opinion there was more <em>ton</em> and fashion at
+Toulouse. The prosperity of the place was arrested by
+the Revolution, when it was in a state of splendid commercial
+prosperity, rapidly increasing in magnificence.
+Toulouse, on the contrary, I take it, was even then on
+the decline. Another advantage Bordeaux has, in addition
+to its having been laid out, like Bath, with modern
+improvement as to the width of the streets, namely, the
+convenience of stone quarries close at hand, instead of
+bricks to form the buildings, and this with water carriage.
+It has besides a stone somewhat similar to Portland
+stone, a complete Bath stone cut by the saw and
+adze like that at Bath; and of course these advantages
+have not been neglected by Frenchmen.</p>
+
+<p>The Garonne is a noble river, not very much wider
+than the Thames at London Bridge, but it appears
+deeper, and of more importance; the tide occasionally
+reaches up as high as the neighbourhood of Langon. The
+quays probably extend nearly two miles, and in general
+are well-built and handsome, and the river just now full
+of shipping. The quays are inferior to those at Lyons,
+and the few half-rotten ships on the stocks in the spacious
+yard, show strongly the urgent necessity of what the
+people did on the late occasion.</p>
+
+<p>The Grand Theatre is a very handsome building, with
+a colonnade of twelve pillars in front. The whole height
+of the building, with its connexions of taverns, Exeter
+Change, &amp;c., runs back to the river. In its front is a
+square, with two handsome streets branching off right
+and left. One has the double row of trees, in the foreign
+fashion, in the centre, with paved carriage-roads outside,
+and is spacious, ornamental, and useful. At the end of
+this is the other Theatre, de la Gaieté, and that leads into
+a sort of wide avenue street planted all the way, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_555">[Pg 555]</span>
+nearly a mile long. On one side again of this is the
+<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">ci-devant</i> Champ de Mars, or Jardin Publique, a spacious
+public planted walk. The town contains several other
+planted wide streets, and a handsome Palais-Royal,
+<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">ci-devant</i> Du Préfet. There is not any one very handsome
+square, and upon the whole Brussels is to be preferred;
+and it is a town probably nearly of the same
+size.</p>
+
+<p>The Opera House is handsome in the inside, but dirty,
+and not well contrived so as to hold the greatest numbers.
+It consists of twelve large Corinthian pillars, which
+occupy much of the room; and all the upper boxes
+are like baskets projecting between them, and only two
+deep. The shape of the house is a flat horseshoe, and
+well proportioned. The singing tolerably good; and the
+dancing by no means despicable. Except perhaps one or
+two of our best, it is better than at our London theatres.
+The dresses are rich and expensive. The reception of
+our Duke was very gracious; and it was not a little
+curious to hear “God save the King” sung constantly
+with “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Vive Henri IV.!</i>” <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">A l’Anglois, à l’Anglois!</i> was
+also a popular cry, and produced a hornpipe tune, always
+attended with great acclamation, but what the connexion
+was I cannot say. Some impudent sailors always called
+out for “Rule Britannia,” but French <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">politesse</i> could not
+go so far. Two Americans would not pull off their hats
+one night to “God save the King,” and were shouldered
+out of the house in consequence.</p>
+
+<p>The upper boxes are entirely filled with very smartly
+dressed ladies of a certain class, whose wardrobes have
+improved during the last two months, I have no doubt,
+as much as that of the similar class of ladies at Toulouse,—and
+the last was very visible. The Theatre de la
+Gaieté is a sort of Sadler’s Wells, neither more elegant,
+nor more chaste. The rope dancing is decidedly good.
+There is also a Musée here, as well as at Toulouse, but<span class="pagenum" id="Page_556">[Pg 556]</span>
+much inferior. There are not half a dozen original pictures
+of any tolerable master. The antique inscriptions
+are very uninteresting, to me at least, and there were no
+antiques affording pleasure to an artist or amateur. The
+collection of birds, serpents, butterflies, minerals, &amp;c., are
+tolerable, but only of the second order. The library also
+appeared smaller and inferior to that at Toulouse, but
+there were many more readers, which surprised me.</p>
+
+<p>There is also a deaf and dumb establishment here similar
+to that at Paris, and a very civil and apparently very
+intelligent master. I stayed there two hours, to have a
+regular lesson of the principles of the education illustrated
+by the female pupils, who were the most forward. There
+were about seventy scholars, mainly supported by the
+Government. The pupils were not quite so skilful as
+those at Paris, but it is always an interesting exhibition.
+To find out what we were, the teacher ingeniously made
+a pupil ask us what nation we were of, and of what profession,
+and as all the deaf and dumb pupils rejoiced in
+the answer, and seemed much pleased, I determined to
+keep up our good character, and gave the damsels a
+Napoleon, for which I got much dumb-show thanks in
+return.</p>
+
+<p>The cathedral, or principal church, of St. André, is a
+good Gothic building of about the second class, built by
+“<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">vos Messieurs les Anglais</i>,” as we are instantly told. It
+is in one respect unfinished; for both the north and
+south fronts are intended to have each two light Gothic
+spires on the towers, whereas only one pair is built—the
+other has been but just commenced. The pair that exist
+were some little time since out of repair, and a part had
+fallen down. Bonaparte saw this, and graciously said
+they must be put in order directly. The Bourdelois were
+grateful, thinking he intended to have it done, but he
+only ordered it, and a tax on the commune at the same
+time, to pay for it. In the same way, as he came from<span class="pagenum" id="Page_557">[Pg 557]</span>
+Lyons to Bordeaux, he found the road bad, and much
+out of repair: this he also ordered to be repaired immediately;
+but an <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">impôt</i> all along the communes on the
+road, beyond the expense of the repairs, followed likewise
+as immediately. The Préfet’s palace he also ordered to
+be put in complete order, and it was just finished in time
+to receive the Duke d’Angoulême, which was not quite
+according to the wishes and intentions of the said Bonaparte.</p>
+
+<p>The Exchange at Bordeaux is a well-contrived handsome
+building, and the square in the centre, roofed in
+with sky-lights, to form a convenient place for the different
+walks. The cloisters round are full of shops, jewellery,
+maps, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p><em>June 28th.</em>—I have just returned from the synagogue,
+where I have been these two hours. There are nearly
+two thousand Jews at Bordeaux. “It is no wonder the
+Christians are well fleeced,” as my French companion
+observed, “when there are two thousand persons in the
+town who impose it upon themselves as a duty, and cheat
+for religion’s sake.” The chapel is a new building, the
+style of architecture not good, being a sort of imitation
+of Saxon, or rather of no particular order, but the shape
+of the temple is excellent, the proportions good, and the
+whole imposing. A colonnade formed by pillars runs all
+round, with a gallery above for the women, who are
+separated from the men. The altar at the end, with the
+ark of the covenant and the books of Moses, &amp;c. The
+branch in the centre; round this the reading-desks, with
+the rows of lights for the priests, &amp;c. The upper
+gallery is arched over like Covent Garden, with a circular
+roof.</p>
+
+<p>The Jews were very civil. The singing was tolerably
+good; the singing boys, about twenty in number, in
+white surplices and sky-blue silk sashes and scarfs, and
+bonnets, had a good effect, mixed with the old priests in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_558">[Pg 558]</span>
+their hoods. The ceremony of producing the books of
+Moses and returning them to the ark was the most
+imposing in point of solemnity, and was attended by
+music; but what to me was the most striking, was when
+at a certain period in the service called the Benediction,
+every parent found immediately his son or grandson, or
+the children their parents. In short, after a few moments’
+bustle, you saw every one, whatever his age,
+imposing his hooded head and hands on his own offspring,
+and every generation thus at the same instant
+receiving the benediction from his own parent respectively.
+This was really an imposing scene.</p>
+
+<p>The most truly Jewish part followed, for by solemn
+proclamation every sacred office, namely, the opening of
+the ark, the drawing the curtains, carrying the books,
+putting on the ornaments, reading out of them when
+produced, the right of assisting in every part of the ceremonies,
+was regularly put up to auction, and sold to the
+highest bidder. The biddings were from one franc to
+three and five, and even at times up to forty and fifty.
+As I was informed, these profits were given to the poor.
+There was a little spoilt Jew child, about six years old,
+for whom its papa had, I conclude, bought the privilege
+of placing the silver ornaments on the tops of the
+wooden rollers of the vellum Pentateuch, and the little
+creature seemed much pleased and excessively proud
+of his office. On Wednesday next there is to be a
+wedding, and if not engaged, it is my intention to be
+present.</p>
+
+<p>The coffee-houses here, before we came, were very good,
+and are not very dear. They are now so hot and
+crowded, and in such confusion that I prefer my dinner
+solo. Being in a great measure fixed by <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">la carte</i> as to
+prices, I believe we are less imposed upon at the restaurateurs
+than anywhere else.</p>
+
+<p>I rode out one day about four miles on the old<span class="pagenum" id="Page_559">[Pg 559]</span>
+Bayonne road, to see a house and garden much talked of
+here, belonging to a Mons. R——, the Portuguese Consul,
+a queer old man, who goes about in a scarlet uniform
+like that of our former English Generals, and with a
+white-feathered General’s hat. The grounds and gardens
+are large, and in the first style of a Paddington tea-garden,
+with a mixture of Hawkstone nonsense and
+Walsh Porter’s sham villages, &amp;c. The house is nothing
+remarkable, consisting of a number of rooms by no means
+good; not a single good picture, only some bad indecent
+ones and very free prints. The most ludicrous part was
+a regular inscription of “Library” over a door which led
+to a little closet with one small set of book-shelves, containing
+a dozen or two of great almanacs, and a few odd
+volumes of all sorts of books, the whole in number about
+a hundred.</p>
+
+<p>On the landing-place on the stairs is a negro, carved in
+wood, holding a bottle and glass. The flower-garden—which
+is in the old style, is tolerable. There are no good
+statues, but plenty of cut trees in all shapes, temples,
+&amp;c., the whole being an endeavour to make poor Nature
+as little likely to know herself as possible. There were
+trees with the stems in frames and the tops pointed. In
+the cut promenades in the woods were tombs and
+wooden painted figures, of all sorts and descriptions.
+There were dogs in their houses, the prodigal son feeding
+swine, a mad lady half naked in a cage, &amp;c. In another
+part of the garden was a labyrinth, and a windmill with
+a wooden man looking out of one window and a woman
+out of the other, and below these a wooden cow and
+some sheep, goats, deer of the same material, grazing.</p>
+
+<p>Strangers are admitted to survey this place on any day.
+The doors were opened to about a dozen of us, and we
+were turned loose, without any showman, into the house
+and grounds, and ranged about where we pleased. On
+Sunday every one is admitted, and it is said there is much<span class="pagenum" id="Page_560">[Pg 560]</span>
+company. The walks are cool, and it is not surprising
+that they are frequented. The whole is one mode out of
+many of obtaining notoriety. An ingenious way for preserving
+the flowers is by an inscription insinuating that
+every flower is a transformed female. This would not, I
+fear, succeed in England. The poor ladies would have
+many a pinch and squeeze, and lose many a limb, if
+Kensington Gardens were full of such flowers, and had
+no other protector.</p>
+
+<p><em>Sunday, 19th.</em>—The embarkation of the troops is now
+going on with more spirit. The fourth division are, I
+believe, all on board, if not sailed, and everything is by
+degrees moving down towards the camp at Blanquefort,
+and the place of embarkation, Pouillac, about thirty-five
+miles below this. From the state of uncertainty in
+which I remain I shall be one of the last, if I go at all,
+that is, whether our Tarragona Court-martial is put an
+end to. All accounts which have reached me agree with
+P——’s. I have thought all along that, with the help
+and assistance of Bonaparte himself, who was our best
+ally, almost the whole of what has happened has arisen,
+as it were, from the peculiar state of the nations of Europe,
+and from a natural course of events directed by
+Providence, and with which the Allies had nothing
+to do, except not to prevent it by their blunders or
+quarrels.</p>
+
+<p>We have various letters from Toulouse, to officers of
+the army, full of regret for the loss of their English
+friends, and by no means satisfied with the exchange for
+their own countrymen. The army is vexed at this, and
+matters are worse, as they do nothing but grumble and
+quarrel in consequence. The reception of the French
+troops when they entered, it is said, was very flat and
+provoking. D’Armagnac, who was supposed to have
+saved the town by advising Soult to be off, was sent in
+first, with two thousand five hundred men, and he and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_561">[Pg 561]</span>
+his officers bowed and were very anxious to court a cordial
+greeting; but the dull silence was scarcely broken,
+and the French officers could not contain their vexation
+and abuse in consequence. There was, I believe, more
+sincerity in the professions of the Toulousians towards
+us, as far as the majority was concerned, than is usual
+with Frenchmen, or than we could reasonably have expected
+from them.</p>
+
+<p>On the other hand, the accounts from the cavalry, of
+their treatment in their march through France, is very
+different from ours at Toulouse:—in this they all agree.
+The officers, trusting to French hospitality, have left their
+own beds behind, and having had to bivouac almost as
+much as in Spain, they have had a bad time of it. Several
+letters have come from Mr. H——, who went with
+the column through Angoulême and Poictiers. He has
+written from both these places. He says, “The inhabitants
+profess openly that, as we chose to march through
+France, they will try and make us repent of it. They
+scarcely give any quarters, send the men leagues about
+out of the road, and only let the Commissary buy his
+provisions on the road. At Angoulême, a town which
+might quarter ten thousand men without inconvenience
+for a short time, they would only suffer a few officers and
+the General in the town, and most of those were quartered
+at inns. The General and one servant got a billet at a
+private house, but he was to pay if he took more in with
+him. The incivility is general; the doors were all shut
+against us. The playhouse at Angoulême was empty
+the night it was known that our officers would be there.
+Nothing to be had without paying.” This is the same
+spirit of vexation as that in the army—a conviction that
+they have been beaten, and that this march is a sort of
+proof and token of it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Bordeaux, June 26th, 1814.</em>—My life
+has been every day the same—a ride early, at work<span class="pagenum" id="Page_562">[Pg 562]</span>
+at home all the middle of the day, a dinner generally
+solo, and another walk or ride in the evening, or, as
+the weather has become cooler again, sometimes the
+play.</p>
+
+<p>I have spoken to Colonel M—— about your friends
+who think of a removal to the south of France, he
+having many connexions at Toulouse. He is decidedly
+of opinion that that should be the place of abode, for a
+family of ladies especially; I am rather disposed to be
+of the same opinion. Pau, however, which I have not
+seen, is much recommended. Supposing they fix on
+Toulouse, Colonel M—— says, of course, that the house
+which they will require for comfort must be large, giving
+them four rooms with <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">lits de maître</i>, and four beds for
+<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">filles de chambres</i>, and about four other servants, and
+three good sitting rooms, &amp;c. He thinks such a house
+may be had for about eighteen hundred francs a-year,
+that is, about 75<em>l.</em> a-year. I can assure them, that in
+point of economy, all must depend upon their arrangements
+being made by some French friends, and not by
+an English one. In house-rent, in wine, in everything,
+an inhabitant will get articles at one-third of the price demanded
+of the English. The French have no ideas of
+honesty or moderation towards the English, and not
+much towards any one in matters of trade. The extortion,
+and even the downright frauds committed, especially
+on travellers, are quite disgraceful, and every tradesman
+assists his neighbour in getting a job, and fleecing
+the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">milords</i>. I believe they are like the Jews, and have,
+from continual practice, arrived at the same conclusion as
+the others from religion, namely, that they are performing
+a duty when they cheat an Englishman.</p>
+
+<p>There are two Protestant chapels here, and one excellent
+preacher, in the style of a London chapel preacher,
+only extempore; I heard one very eloquent French
+sermon delivered by him, with great propriety. The<span class="pagenum" id="Page_563">[Pg 563]</span>
+service, the singing, and other parts of the duty, are but
+moderately performed.</p>
+
+<p>The courts of justice are much the same as at Toulouse,
+and about nine or ten judges generally attend. I was
+unfortunately obliged to leave Toulouse before their
+criminal sessions with a jury commenced, and on my
+arrival here they were over. This takes place only once
+in three months, unless something extraordinary or a
+great press of business occurs. I attended a case of misdemeanor,
+a bad assault, in the criminal court, but that
+was an appeal only, and being of the class of <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">petits delits</i>,
+there never is a jury—but a president and five judges.
+The same number presides when there is a jury, in more
+penal trials; and in certain cases when the jury are
+divided, as for instance seven against five, then the judges
+are called in to vote as jurymen, and the proportion of
+votes required by law calculated on the whole numbers.
+There was much unnecessary delay and argument in the
+case I heard. It was like one of our worst-managed cases
+of motions for a new trial on account of deficiency of
+evidence, which are always of the most tiresome class.</p>
+
+<p><em>Post-day, June 27th.</em>—I have been to the Jew’s wedding.
+The ceremony consists principally of singing and
+drinking, and blessings in Hebrew. There must be something
+Jewish, however, as usual, and that is concerning
+the ring, which, as soon as it is produced, is shown round
+to all the rabbies near, and some elders, &amp;c., and to the
+sponsors, to be sure it is really gold, or otherwise the
+marriage is void, and the true old clothesman-like way in
+which they all spied at the ring was very amusing.
+Nearly the last ceremony is the bridegroom’s smashing a
+wine-glass in a plate on the floor, with an idea that he
+and his spouse are then as difficult to separate as it would
+be to reunite the glass. The gentleman showed gallantry
+by exerting all his force, and looking most fiercely as he
+broke the glass.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_564">[Pg 564]</span></p>
+
+<p>I understand that the Duke of Wellington came back
+from Madrid with a much better impression of King
+Ferdinand than when he went, thinking that he showed
+talent, firmness, and character. The manner in which
+he received the Duke may have somewhat disposed him
+to this favourable judgment. I understand the King
+immediately treated the Duke as a grandee of Spain, by
+shaking hands with him, and putting his hat on, and that
+the king declared almost the only two acts of the Cortes,
+which he approved of <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">in toto</i>, were those which made the
+Duke commander of all the Spanish armies, and gave him
+the estate in the South.</p>
+
+<p>We have had news from our cavalry from the vicinity
+of Paris, from Chartres; all the officers have deserted
+their regiments to see Paris—that present wonder of
+wonders! They have occasionally lately been better
+treated, that is, whenever they met with a Royalist patron
+at their quarters. H—— says there seems to be two
+parties everywhere, and it is a sort of lottery which they
+fall into the hands of; that, when he wrote last from
+Chartres he had been “stuffed to death,” made to eat three
+or four meals a-day, and to attend a party given on purpose
+for him every evening: this, I conclude, was all a
+<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">douce</i> violence.</p>
+
+<p>Still no news as to our Tarragona plan. My patron,
+Monsieur Emerigon, says, that at Paris the Emperor of
+Russia individually was the most popular, except perhaps
+the English and our Duke; that the Russian troops were
+not in such favour; the King of Prussia so-so. Blucher
+and his troops better, but the Emperor of Austria the
+worst of all; and every one must have observed the
+marked difference of his reception from that of the other
+sovereigns.</p>
+
+<p>I am to-day turned out of my room, which is the
+dining-room, as my patron gives a dinner, to which he
+has asked me. I must not therefore complain.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_565">[Pg 565]</span></p>
+
+<p>We have been paid up a good deal of money at this
+place, where the quantity of gold and silver we have
+circulated is quite incredible. Every one talks of it, and
+the piles and piles of empty money-boxes of all sorts, and
+from all quarters, fully prove it. At present we have
+immense quantities of French money, Napoleons and
+Louis, gold and silver, from Paris, whilst, on the other
+hand, I am told that the French are here buying up our
+guineas and Portuguese gold, to turn them into Louis,
+as they have begun a new coinage both here and at
+Paris.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_566">[Pg 566]</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXXI">CHAPTER XXXI.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="fs80" style="margin-left: 2em; text-indent: -2em;">Country Fêtes—Brawls with the French—The Duke d’Angoulême—Mademoiselle
+Georges—The Actress and the Emperor—French Acting
+and French Audiences—Presentation of a Sword to Lord Dalhousie—Georges’
+Benefit—Departure.</p>
+
+<p class="right fs80">
+Head-quarters, Bordeaux, July 4, 1814,<br>
+<span style="padding-right: 4em">Post-day.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="no-indent"><span class="smcap">My dear M——</span>,
+</p>
+
+<p><span style="padding-left: 2em">We</span> have still had no instruction how to proceed,
+and are waiting the determination in England. In
+the mean time I am being gradually stewed, for the heat
+has again commenced, and is in full operation. My life
+is quite retired and monotonous, and affords no incidents.
+The only variety that has arisen is, that yesterday I
+dined at three o’clock with my patron’s sister, a West
+Indian elderly single lady, and a female party. I was
+the only beau, the brother was engaged; and in the
+evening I rode over about three miles to Briges, a village,
+where they were keeping an annual fête.</p>
+
+<p>The crowd of country-people dancing and singing was
+very considerable, and the road was covered with the
+lower class, going and returning. The difference between
+this and our country fêtes seems to be, that there was
+nothing to buy or sell, and but little eating and drinking
+going on, the principal occupation being dancing and
+talking, laughing, and parading about. It seems impossible
+to make such a people as the French very unhappy
+in any way, however bad their government, except by
+the conscription.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_567">[Pg 567]</span></p>
+
+<p>Those who are satisfied with salads, sour wine, dancing,
+and other amusements entirety depending upon themselves
+and the meeting of the two sexes, can only be disappointed
+and deprived of their happiness by the removal
+of one sex altogether. Leave them alone, and they have
+nearly all they wish. John Bull, on the contrary, wants
+many things more to put him into the same state of joy
+and satisfaction.</p>
+
+<p>Several of Marshal Soult’s officers have got into Bordeaux
+of late; disputes and quarrels have been the consequence,
+but hitherto they have been of no great
+moment. Every opportunity of seeking a row was
+eagerly laid hold of by the French—a jostle on the
+stairs at the theatre was sufficient. Lord Dalhousie,
+who is in command here now, has been obliged to forbid
+any officer going to the Theatre de la Gaieté where this
+was most likely to arise, and to order off every officer
+not on duty here to camp. We have here now only the
+Guards and staff officers. The inhabitants are all with
+us, particularly a set of very fine-looking young men, but
+a little hot-headed, who compose the Duke d’Angoulême’s
+guard of honour. They have been also insulted, and a
+few days since paraded with bludgeons to see if this
+would be repeated either against themselves or the
+English, and they determined to resist either on the
+spot. No great harm has yet happened. As far as I can
+learn, there have been about three fights, but none fatal.</p>
+
+<p>A young Tyrolean, in the pay-office department,
+having been insulted, watched and followed the offender
+home. He then went for his sword, which we never
+wear (but the French always do), returned, and insisted
+upon instant satisfaction. Upon this the Frenchman’s
+zeal began to cool, but it was too late; the Tyrolean
+insisted upon his going out into a backyard and fighting
+directly. He cut him across the face, and was just
+about running his sword into his body, when a friend<span class="pagenum" id="Page_568">[Pg 568]</span>
+interfered, and stopped him, saying that “he had done
+enough.”</p>
+
+<p>Another Frenchman has been horsewhipped by an
+English officer, who, when insulted, returned with his
+sword and whip, and offered the Frenchman his choice,
+and as the latter persisted in asking for time, he chose
+for him and gave him the whip. All this makes Lord
+Dalhousie anxious to get the troops off, and as I hear
+Lord Keith has promised plenty of transports, in answer
+to his pressing letters on the subject, we expect to be all
+away in ten days’ time, and some immediately. There
+are nearly eighteen thousand men still in France, including
+the fifth division at Bayonne, where, by-the-by, the
+disposition on the part of the French to be uncivil, sulky,
+and quarrelsome has been much greater. On the contrary,
+the generals and superior officers are very civil,
+particularly Marshal Suchet, to the few English officers
+remaining at Toulouse, and General Villette, who is here,
+is also very civil.</p>
+
+<p><em>Later.</em>—A ship is just arrived in sixty-four hours
+from Plymouth, telling us that fifteen sail of the line,
+and as many frigates are close at hand, but no news of
+our destination.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Bordeaux, July 10th, 1814.</em>—I have
+now received two letters and packets of papers from you
+by the last mail, including those up to the 28th June.
+The same mail brought orders for all the members of the
+Court-martial appointed for Tarragona to proceed direct
+for England, and there report themselves to the Adjutant-general.
+Upon this I asked Lord Dalhousie (our present
+chief) what I was to do? and was by him desired to
+remain here to the last and move with the head-quarters,
+who remain here till the troops move. This must, I
+think, take place in about a week or ten days, unless you
+cease to send shipping from England. We shall in three
+days’ time have only a brigade of Guards remaining for<span class="pagenum" id="Page_569">[Pg 569]</span>
+the city duty. The rest who will not be already embarked
+will be at Pouillac in readiness.</p>
+
+<p>We have now got our small share of Royalty also at
+Bordeaux, as the Duke d’Angoulême has arrived again,
+and means to stay a few days before he goes to join
+Madame la Duchesse at the Baths at Vichy. He looks
+worn, and less calculated than ever for public show, but
+still apparently as amiable as before. The Duc de G——,
+though still, I believe, in our 10th Hussars, came in with
+him, as his aide-de-camp. The Duc de G—— is come
+back much disgusted with Paris, and even almost with
+France and Frenchmen. He says that Paris is a dirty
+place, without society and manners, and that he has met
+with no one to whose word or whose honour he would
+fairly trust: that all seemed to be a system of deception
+and falsehood, and that unless things mend, and alter
+considerably, he should feel almost disposed, in case of
+any unfortunate quarrel with England, to renounce
+France, rejoin his regiment, and become an Englishman.
+This, I conclude, is the depression of first feelings,
+which, in the case of emigrants, must be very
+strong just now. Matters have not quite proceeded to
+their tastes, and they must every hour meet with that
+which must inevitably disgust them.</p>
+
+<p>We have now also at Bordeaux the celebrated Mademoiselle
+Georges, the actress from Paris, and Mons.
+Joami, also from the metropolis. In spite of the heat,
+I have been three times to hear them in Voltaire’s plays,
+<em>Merope</em>, <em>Phedre</em>, and <em>l’Orphelin de la Chine</em>. The man
+has neither much figure nor countenance, and I should
+place him only as a second-rate performer, though still
+very superior to the ordinary set here in that line. In
+fact there are no tragic performers here at all; and the
+inferiority, beneath mediocrity, with which every other
+part is sustained, takes off the interest with which these
+tragedies would be otherwise attended.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_570">[Pg 570]</span></p>
+
+<p>Mdlle. Georges herself is also in many parts deficient,
+both in good taste and in true nature. She is of a
+large figure, but now fallen to pieces; and I am rather
+surprised that the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">ci-devant</i> Emperor should have fancied
+her anywhere except during his Moscow campaign. The
+story, however, goes here, that at one of their interviews,
+Bonaparte was taken ill, and in her confusion and ignorance
+Mdlle. Georges rang the Empress’s bell instead
+of that for the attendants, and that on the arrival of
+Maria Louise there was of course a scene.</p>
+
+<p>Mdlle. Georges’ voice is good, and her countenance
+would by many be considered fine. In some parts of
+her acting I think she is strikingly great, but generally
+forced and extravagant. She runs into extremes from
+crying to laughing, and from low ghost-like intonations
+to loud vulgar screams. Upon the whole, one comes
+away fatigued from one of these representations, and not
+much pleased or affected. And what convinces me that
+it really is inferiority in the drama or in the actress, and
+not merely the difference of style and manner, or national
+feeling as to composition and taste, which causes this, is,
+that the French part of the audience never seem affected
+like an English audience under the influence of really
+fine acting. You never hear the generally suppressed
+sobs, or see the eyes full of tears all round the house as
+with us at an English tragedy, when, for example, Mrs.
+Siddons plays, and every one goes away with a serious
+impression. In the French auditors you only hear
+bursts of “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Très beau, très beau! superbe! magnifique!</i>” &amp;c.,
+always applied to some extravagant and sudden change of
+tone or manner; and now, at this present moment, if
+there happens to be a royal sentiment which can be
+applied, it is encored like a song. No one seems carried
+away by feelings which he cannot command; but the
+applause is given as it would be to a mountebank for a
+clever trick. The distressed heroine or empress spits in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_571">[Pg 571]</span>
+her pocket-handkerchief, or on the stage in the true
+French style, and certainly not in a manner to excite
+admiration or interest, or to impress the spectators very
+strongly with ideas of her dignity and elegance.</p>
+
+<p>The first night the Duke d’Angoulême was at the play
+(on his arrival here this time), we had verses and songs
+in his honour, and “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Vive Henry IV.!</i>” without end.
+At last came for once, “God save the King,” which was
+received very differently from what it was even when I
+first came here; coolly and civilly enough, except by a
+few; and I believe we have a few sincere friends here.</p>
+
+<p>As Paris gave a sword to General Sacken, Bordeaux is
+to give one to Lord Dalhousie; and I really think the
+town has (as they certainly ought to have) some feelings
+of gratitude towards him for his attention to everything
+which can be of service to the city, and in successful
+efforts to preserve order, and prevent any mischief being
+done to the inhabitants. This sword will be a curious
+heir-loom in the Dalhousie family, given to their ancestor
+by the French civil authorities of Bordeaux.</p>
+
+<p>As a trait of the natural French feelings of vanity, I
+may tell you, that my loyal patron Mons. Emerigon said,
+not only should we have been all originally prevented
+from entering France, had the people been of one mind
+with the Emperor and the army, but that all along a
+single word of complaint from Louis XVIII. of the conduct
+of the allied troops would have been a signal for
+their entire destruction at any period since.</p>
+
+<p>I am now told that the fifth division, from Bayonne
+are also on their march hither to embark. This will
+probably cause some little more delay; but I think in
+ten days we must be on board ship.</p>
+
+<p><em>Head-Quarters, Bordeaux, July 15th, 1814.</em>—Our final
+departure from hence appears, at last, to be gradually
+approaching. The numbers of the English diminish
+daily; and though we have for this month past been<span class="pagenum" id="Page_572">[Pg 572]</span>
+talking of the “next week,” I begin to think that another
+week will really and truly see us off, and the
+French army again in possession of Bordeaux.</p>
+
+<p>The tradesmen of the town will miss us greatly. They
+have made a famous time of it these last three months,
+for the army has in that time received six months’ pay,
+and most of it has found its way into the pockets of the
+keepers of the restaurateurs, the hotels, &amp;c. Bordeaux
+has had its full share of the spoils of the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">milords</i>. Nor
+have the inhabitants suffered anything by the army,
+except the little inconvenience of giving up a room or
+two in general as quarters for the officers, who partly
+made up even for this by giving their hosts tickets for
+the play, taking boxes for the ladies, &amp;c., and making
+them presents every now and then. The only persons
+who have suffered by us at all in the neighbourhood, are
+those who have small gardens near the camp. They
+certainly have had their vegetables and fruit gathered
+gratis, and have generally not even had their share.
+This evil is, however, exaggerated, and much of it which
+really exists, has been done by the French peasantry and
+country servants, who, if a soldier takes six cabbages,
+immediately take a dozen more themselves, sell them in
+the camp, and swear to the owners that the soldiers are
+the culprits.</p>
+
+<p>Those who have vineyards as well as gardens, have
+also their full revenge in the price of their wines, which
+were immediately doubled, by the arrival of the troops,
+and the latter in fact pay dearly for their vegetables,
+though they get a good part for nothing. It is fortunate
+for the inhabitants that we shall be off before the grapes
+begin to ripen, and for our own soldiers likewise. Surrounded
+by vineyards, the temptations would be irresistible,
+and the means of offence almost boundless; so that
+the loss to the cultivators of them principal harvest, and
+the injury to the soldiers, would be very considerable.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_573">[Pg 573]</span></p>
+
+<p>I have bought a violoncello to amuse myself this warm
+weather, and as my host, M. Emerigon, plays the violin
+in very excellent style, we have frequently music of an
+evening before he goes to his consultations.</p>
+
+<p>We most of us, nevertheless, begin to find Bordeaux
+dull,—I do in particular. My occupation has nearly
+ceased, except as to swearing the paymasters, &amp;c., to
+their accounts, and now and then a Court-martial,—not
+enough to give me full employment. The constant
+expectation of moving, the uncertainty when I may be
+wanted, and the natural indolence arising from the heat,
+prevent me from voluntarily engaging in any regular
+study or pursuit, and even prevent my making any
+excursions beyond a league or two on my pony. Shut
+up in this town, which, though airy, as to the general
+breadth of the streets and openings, is still in fact hot
+and low, and built in a country like that round Woolwich
+or Deptford, I get thin and languid, and shall be glad to
+be braced by the sea-air and the cooler climate of England.</p>
+
+<p><em>Saturday, 1st.</em>—As yet we have had no packets this
+week, and being beyond the usual time, this makes us
+believe the reports which have been some days in circulation,
+that you mean to send no more packets from
+England. I have still hopes.</p>
+
+<p>I must tell you a trait completely French, of one of
+the noble guard of honour of the Duke d’Angoulême at
+Bordeaux. I had met him twice in the family with
+whom I live: on one of these occasions, at dinner. He
+dined here yesterday, and whilst the rest of the party
+were taking their coffee, I went to my room to dress, as
+I dined at Lord Dalhousie’s. This guardsman slipped
+up stairs after me. He came bowing into my room,
+whilst I was in my shirt, and without any excuse or
+apology, immediately began to tell me he had a little
+favour to ask, and hoped that I would oblige him, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_574">[Pg 574]</span>
+say nothing of it in the family, for he would not ask
+them, and was anxious they should not know anything
+about it; and at last said, “Could I just let him have
+five guineas or so, for which he would give me a bit of
+paper.” In short, he added that he was rather deficient
+in cash, and I should oblige him infinitely by the loan,
+which should be paid when he could. As I fully expected
+an application to ask some favour of Lord Dalhousie or
+the Duke of Wellington, or something very disagreeable,
+I felt rather relieved by the explanation in full. As he
+was quite a young man, had just got a commission in
+the new regiment to be raised in Martinique, and was, I
+concluded, of good character, from his connexion with
+M. Emerigon and his family, who are held in great
+esteem, I counted him out his five guineas (all the time
+in my shirt), and he went away very happy, saying that
+he would go below and leave me a bit of paper, though I
+told him there was pen and ink in my room. The paper
+said that he would send Mr. —— six guineas to England
+(a guinea more than I had given him) as soon as he
+could. It was signed—<cite>P. de V. De R——, De La
+Martinique</cite>, leaving my name a blank, and not inquiring
+where he should send, so as to reserve, I presume, enough
+to satisfy his conscience in not repaying the money, that
+he should never know where to send it. His bit of paper
+only confirmed me in my notion that I was doing an act
+of charity, and not turning Jew or money-lender.</p>
+
+<p>The guard of honour are to-day dismissed, by order of
+the higher powers from Paris. In truth, there are quite
+troops enough in France, without adding the expense of
+these gentlemen, with their white feathers a yard long,
+who would be of no use except to quarrel with the
+regular troops. Only four years since Bonaparte, when
+at Bordeaux, was attended everywhere by a guard of
+honour of the same description. Volunteers were his only
+body-guard.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_575">[Pg 575]</span></p>
+
+<p>The Prefêt of Bordeaux last night gave a fête to the
+Duke d’Angoulême. I went with M. Emerigon. The
+Duke came a few minutes after eight o’clock in his carriage
+and six, dressed, I believe, in the uniform of a
+Field-Marshal, with the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">cordon-bleu</i>, &amp;c. He was received
+by the Prefêt, attended by Generals Villette,
+Blagnac, Clement de la Ronciere, &amp;c., &amp;c., and a number
+of old and new nobility, all in their best; and having
+been, as it were, proclaimed to the company by the
+Prefêt, the Duke went about most graciously, talking to
+every one as usual.</p>
+
+<p>About ten supper was announced, for the Duke has
+very early habits; and in about half an hour afterwards
+he came to the window to see very pretty fireworks,
+which were let off in the main street, surrounded by
+thousands of people below, and at all the windows. It
+was a gay and attractive scene. Soon after eleven the
+Duke went home, for he rises at five, and works hard at
+business, on petitions, &amp;c., and at four o’clock to-morrow
+morning is to start for Bayonne. He had been at two
+reviews in the course of yesterday, and had both times
+been in tolerably severe storms. I fancy he must now
+and then wish himself quiet again, as he has been for the
+last twenty years. I am almost sure I should. The
+new barons and nobility seem to make very good courtiers.
+Indeed, the duties are all the same; it is only a
+change in the cry and the idol, the same worship exists
+as before. The Prefêt, Monsieur le Baron de V——,
+while the fireworks were going on, observed to all
+around him (loud enough on purpose for the Duke to
+hear)—how fortunate he was to have thought of the fireworks;
+that the idea had come into his head, as he
+observed that every one would see Monseigneur so well
+at the window, whilst the fireworks were going off; and
+then how plainly we can read the inscriptions—O yes,
+observe <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Vive le Duc d’Angoulême! Vivent les Bourbons!</i><span class="pagenum" id="Page_576">[Pg 576]</span>
+and the fleurs-de-lys—how well they look in the midst of
+the fire! He felt quite happy that he had thought of
+all this to gratify the people, as it necessarily must do.—Now
+the inscriptions were close to us, and in letters
+a foot long. And note besides, that this Baron was one
+of the functionaries who ran away from Bordeaux, when
+the Duke came here on the 12th of March, and who
+would probably not now hold his situation, if my patron
+and some others had not persuaded him to return in
+good time, and continue in his office to wait the result.
+The Duke must see through this, and be disgusted.</p>
+
+<p>The women here are not as well dressed as at Toulouse—not
+so stylish. They do not show so much blood and
+fashion. I believe, however, among the higher orders,
+that there is much more morality, and that there is a
+greater difference in reality, as well as in outward appearance,
+between the ladies in the dress-boxes, and those in
+the tier above, than there was at Toulouse.</p>
+
+<p>Shortly after eleven o’clock the few English who were
+present at the fête, had nearly all gone home, being chiefly
+Generals and their aides-de-camp. I came away, leaving
+the company waltzing and dancing away with less spirit
+and skill than at Toulouse.</p>
+
+<p>I met with some very liberal Catholics here; for
+instance, a gentleman said yesterday, before me, that if
+all the pieces of the true Cross were collected, they
+would, when put together, make a cross half a mile long.
+A lady in company said to a friend (also before me), that
+she did not much trouble the father confessor, and indeed
+that it was what she liked the least of any part of her
+duty. She added that their religion depended on faith,
+hope, and charity, and that she understood (addressing
+me), ours did so too, but that theirs required a good deal
+of hope. Madame Emerigon, with whom I live, has
+returned home highly delighted with Paris, but abuses
+the inhabitants, who, she says, think only of making<span class="pagenum" id="Page_577">[Pg 577]</span>
+money, taking in strangers, provincials and foreigners,
+and amusing themselves day and night.</p>
+
+<p>She is a French creole from one of the islands. A
+little mulatto girl, about fourteen, always stands behind
+her chair, laughing at all her mistress says. The hairdresser
+is generally seated in one corner of the room,
+half the dinner-time, joining in the conversation, and
+sometimes adorning Madame, whilst we are taking our
+wine, and during this time an idle Paris lad, of the girl’s
+age, whom Madame seems to have fancied because he
+speaks such good French, and not the Patois, is running
+about, bustling, but in reality doing little or nothing from
+morning till night. Three other female servants, and a
+nephew of the family, complete the party on this side
+of the house, or rather wing.</p>
+
+<p>In an opposite wing, are, first in the upper part, two
+respectable old ladies, and their servants; below them
+<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">au-premier</i>, is an old West Indian gentleman and his two
+sons, both <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">ci-devant</i> of the Imperial guard of honour,
+from Bordeaux, and his two daughters, with servants,
+&amp;c. None of these are very elegant, nor, as far as I can
+judge from one visit, very well bred. They amused me
+the whole time with talking of the superiority of the
+French troops, and how the Imperial guards in particular
+could beat all the Allies if not more than two to one, as
+they always had done, to which I only said that I
+believed the Imperial Guards had been all withdrawn
+from the army of Spain, at least I supposed so, and that
+I had had, therefore, no opportunity of judging. One
+Miss also asked what the English lived upon? as she
+understood we ate no bread. Upon which a French
+visitor, to save me the trouble of explanation, informed
+her that we principally lived upon <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">des potates</i> (which is
+now the word here for potatoes) and <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">betraves</i>, with which
+accurate information she seemed quite satisfied. This
+sort of conversation, and a few songs quite in the French<span class="pagenum" id="Page_578">[Pg 578]</span>
+style, which I do not at all admire, though one of the
+demoiselles had a good voice, have not tempted me to
+pay another visit.</p>
+
+<p>The other night I went to the benefit of Madame
+Georges. She acted Semiramis, in Voltaire’s play, and
+with considerable success, particularly when she let
+Nature have its way. She also acted in the sentimental
+farce of <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">La Belle Fermière</i>, and really well, if she had
+but omitted a miserable song, accompanied by an old
+violin or two behind the scenes, all out of tune. The
+orchestra, as well as every part of the house, was full—almost
+every passage crammed near the openings to the
+boxes. The play began at seven o’clock, and the company
+were all ready by four, and I saw many well-dressed
+women going to the play at two and three o’clock, as
+a box cannot be engaged without paying almost double
+price. The Duke was very well received, and as there
+was luckily no band, we escaped about five-and-twenty
+<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Vive Henry IV.!</i> which we should otherwise have had.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Wilberforce should exert himself in getting little
+essays written in French, on the Slave Trade, circulated
+in France, in some degree at least to enlighten the
+people. At present, even the more intelligent and better
+sort of men seem only to consider the English as playing
+the part of Don Quixote in this business, and consider the
+whole as a sort of romantic affectation of humanity; whilst
+many others insinuate motives not quite so honourable,
+by stating that, having well supplied our own islands
+with slaves, we wish to give up all the other colonies,
+with a diminished black population, and in bad condition,
+and then to prevent their ever recovering themselves.
+This is to be done by the abolition of the Slave Trade;
+whilst our own islands, in full prosperity, will be ready
+to reap the benefit of the distress of their rivals.</p>
+
+<p><em>July 18th.</em>—I have now only time to seal up and to
+tell you that the returns of embarkations are just arrived<span class="pagenum" id="Page_579">[Pg 579]</span>
+from Pouillac, by which it appears that all the troops are
+now actually on board, except the two brigades of Guards,
+one of which entered Pouillac to-day to be prepared, and
+the other is still here. At present no more shipping is
+ready, though more are expected; some say we shall be
+moving about to-morrow week, some this day fortnight;
+but I believe no one knows anything of the matter.</p>
+
+<hr class="r5">
+
+<p>From the following entry in the Diary kept by Mrs.
+Larpent, it appears that Mr. F. S. Larpent arrived at his
+father’s house, at East Sheen, on the 8th August, 1814.</p>
+
+<p><em>8th August, 1814.</em>—“In the evening came Seymour,
+looking younger than when he went away, and in excellent
+health, after having been absent two years, all but a
+fortnight. We thanked God sincerely for this great
+mercy and happiness.”</p>
+<br>
+
+<hr class="r25">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="APPENDIX">APPENDIX.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="r5">
+
+<p>[Although the annexed letter does not come chronologically
+within the scope of Mr. Larpent’s Journal, as there is an anticipatory
+notice, towards the close of the second volume, of Sir John
+Murray’s trial, it may not inappropriately be inserted here.]</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot fs90">
+<p class="right">
+Paris, January 19th, 1815.</p>
+
+<p class="no-indent">
+<span class="smcap">My dear Sir</span>,
+</p>
+
+<p><span style="padding-left: 2em">In</span> regard to Sir John Murray’s trial, I intended to prove
+the charges framed by my directions against him, in consequence of
+the orders of Government, by the production of my Instructions
+and his Reports, all of which are in the Government Offices.</p>
+
+<p>Sir John Murray contends that one paragraph of my Instructions
+directed him not to risk an action. I think he has mistaken my
+meaning in that paragraph; but whether he has or not, that paragraph
+did not recall the other Instructions for his conduct.</p>
+
+<p>The object of that paragraph was to prevent the Spanish Generals
+Elio and the Duque del Parque, from taking advantage of Sir John<span class="pagenum" id="Page_580">[Pg 580]</span>
+Murray’s absence, and the temporary command which they had of
+the cavalry belonging to Sir John Murray’s and Whittingham’s
+corps, to attack the French. There existed a prevailing opinion
+among the Spanish officers that their failures were to be attributed
+to the want of good cavalry; and this paragraph of the Instructions
+was drawn with the view of preventing those officers from attempting
+to fight a general action when circumstances should have
+placed a small body of good cavalry at their disposal, more particularly
+as all the manœuvres ordered by the Instructions had in view
+to prevent the necessity of a general action.</p>
+
+<p>I have not by me the Instructions, but, as well as I recollect,
+this meaning of the paragraph is obvious; and it will be particularly
+observed that it comes in after the directions for the formation of
+the Corps Romain in Bohemia with the Duque del Parque and
+General Elio. I think, as I before stated, that this paragraph has
+nothing to say to the question of Sir John Murray’s guilt or innocence
+of the two charges, though it has to that brought against him
+by the Admiral.</p>
+
+<p>The Court has, of course, a right to judge of my meaning by the
+words in which it is conveyed, in whatever manner I may now
+explain it or you may explain it for me, as the obvious meaning of
+those words was to be the guide of Sir John Murray’s conduct.
+I must add also, that whatever care I may have taken, it is not
+improbable that in drawing an Instruction for the operations of so
+many corps, all with separate Commanders-in-Chief, I may not in
+every instance have made use of the language which should convey
+the meaning I had in my mind.</p>
+
+<p>There is nothing else that occurs to me; but I shall be glad to
+hear from you occasionally during the trial, and receive a copy of
+the evidence when it can be got.</p>
+
+<p class="right">
+<span style="padding-right: 5em">Believe me,</span><br>
+<span style="padding-right: 2em">Ever yours, most faithfully,</span><br>
+<span class="smcap">Wellington</span>.</p>
+
+<p class="no-indent"><em>To F. S. Larpent, Esq.</em><br>
+<span style="padding-left: 2em"><em>&amp;c.</em></span> <span style="padding-left: 2em"><em>&amp;c.</em></span></p>
+</div>
+<br>
+<br>
+
+
+<p class="center no-indent fs70">LONDON: W. CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS.</p>
+<br>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter transnote">
+<h2 class="nobreak bold fs150" id="Transcribers_Notes">Transcriber’s Notes</h2>
+
+<ul>
+<li>pg 65 Changed: that is the best way, I believe, if posible<br>
+<span style="padding-left: 2em">to: that is the best way, I believe, if possible</span></li>
+
+<li>pg 102 Changed: not to neglect making up her deficiences<br>
+<span style="padding-left: 2em">to: not to neglect making up her deficiencies</span></li>
+
+<li>pg 125 Changed: the obligation of cuting so much of the corn<br>
+<span style="padding-left: 2em">to: the obligation of cutting so much of the corn</span></li>
+
+<li>pg 137 Changed: too much for them, end are consequently retiring<br>
+<span style="padding-left: 2em">to: too much for them, and are consequently retiring</span></li>
+
+<li>pg 144 Changed: round the botton of an insulated hill<br>
+<span style="padding-left: 2em">to: round the bottom of an insulated hill</span></li>
+
+<li>pg 159 Changed: und and there the first charge of cavalry took place<br>
+<span style="padding-left: 2em">to: und and there the first charge of cavalry took place</span></li>
+
+<li>pg 208 Changed: prisoners aad deserters say nearly five thousand<br>
+<span style="padding-left: 2em">to: prisoners and deserters say nearly five thousand</span></li>
+
+<li>pg 308 Changed: given up their lodgings and and have packed up<br>
+<span style="padding-left: 2em">to: given up their lodgings and have packed up</span></li>
+
+<li>pg 330 Changed: He is a stanch Frenchman<br>
+<span style="padding-left: 2em">to: He is a staunch Frenchman</span></li>
+
+<li>pg 457 Changed: and thence he was was to post the other<br>
+<span style="padding-left: 2em">to: and thence he was to post the other</span></li>
+
+<li>pg 458 Changed: every precaution taken for secresy<br>
+<span style="padding-left: 2em">to: every precaution taken for secrecy</span></li>
+
+<li>pg 471 Changed: probably let the King he proclaimed<br>
+<span style="padding-left: 2em">to: probably let the King be proclaimed</span></li>
+
+<li>pg 482 Changed: stay here until this mornimg<br>
+<span style="padding-left: 2em">to: stay here until this morning</span></li>
+
+<li>pg 493 Changed: who were lyng safe on the ground<br>
+<span style="padding-left: 2em">to: who were lying safe on the ground</span></li>
+
+<li>pg 520 Changed: like our New River, the bands trimmed<br>
+<span style="padding-left: 2em">to: like our New River, the banks trimmed</span></li>
+
+
+<li>New original cover art included with this eBook is granted to the public domain.</li>
+</ul>
+</div>
+
+
+<div style='text-align:center'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 75413 ***</div>
+</body>
+</html>
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