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| committer | nfenwick <nfenwick@pglaf.org> | 2025-02-19 16:21:43 -0800 |
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diff --git a/75419-h/75419-h.htm b/75419-h/75419-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..44f1bf4 --- /dev/null +++ b/75419-h/75419-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,2811 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html> +<html lang="en"> +<head> + <meta charset="UTF-8"> + <title> + Poultry for Profit | Project Gutenberg + </title> + <link rel="icon" href="images/cover.jpg" type="image/x-cover"> + <style> + +body { + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; +} + + h1,h2 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; +} + +p { + margin-top: .51em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .49em; + text-indent: 1em; +} + +hr { + width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: 33.5%; + margin-right: 33.5%; + clear: both; +} + +hr.chap {width: 65%; margin-left: 17.5%; margin-right: 17.5%;} + +div.chapter {page-break-before: always;} +h2.nobreak {page-break-before: avoid;} + +.pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ + /* visibility: hidden; */ + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: small; + text-align: right; + font-style: normal; + font-weight: normal; + font-variant: normal; + text-indent: 0; + color: #A9A9A9; +} /* page numbers */ + +.center {text-align: center;} + +/* Images */ + +img { + max-width: 100%; + height: auto; +} + + +.figcenter { + margin: auto; + text-align: center; + page-break-inside: avoid; + max-width: 100%; +} + +/* Transcriber's notes */ +.transnote {background-color: #E6E6FA; + color: black; + font-size:small; + padding:0.5em; + margin-bottom:5em; + font-family:sans-serif, serif; +} + +.fs70 {font-size: 70%} +.fs90 {font-size: 90%} +.fs150 {font-size: 150%} +.fs120 {font-size: 120%} + +.no-indent {text-indent: 0em;} +.bold {font-weight: bold;} +.wsp {word-spacing: 0.3em;} + +h2 {font-size: 130%; font-weight: normal; line-height: 1.6em; word-spacing: .3em;} + + </style> +</head> +<body> +<div style='text-align:center'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 75419 ***</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 85%"> +<img src="images/cover.jpg" alt="Cover"> +</div> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p class="center no-indent fs120 wsp">TEN CENT POCKET SERIES NO. 430<br> +<span class="fs90">Edited by E. Haldeman-Julius</span></p> + +<h1>Poultry for Profit</h1> + +<p class="center no-indent wsp"><span class="fs150">R. A. Power</span><br> +B. S. in Agriculture</p> +<br> +<br> + +<p class="center no-indent fs120">HALDEMAN-JULIUS COMPANY<br> +GIRARD, KANSAS +</p> +</div> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p class="center no-indent"> +Copyright, 1923,<br> +Haldeman-Julius Company.<br> +</p> +</div> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</span></p> + +<p class="center no-indent fs150 wsp">POULTRY FOR PROFIT</p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I.<br> +<span class="fs70">THE OUTLOOK</span></h2> +</div> + +<p>When a business reaches the billion dollar +mark per year, it is generally looked into by +thinking people who like to know the facts of +the case, and who want to know just why the +business has reached such large proportions. +In this little booklet I will endeavor to explain +not only why the poultry business has grown +so rapidly, but will also reveal the most important +secrets that have contributed largely +to its rapid growth, so that whether the reader +is a farmer, a town lot fancier, or a student of +economics, he or she will gain much by the +reading and the studying of the principles involved.</p> + +<p>The high cost of living has forced many +people to economize to the limit, and reduce +the family budget to the minimum. People in +the small towns and villages, especially, have +sought various ways of increasing their earnings, +and one of the most popular methods resorted<span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</span> +to has been to raise a few chickens, thus +utilizing the table scraps, and odds and ends, +so that there will be no waste. It has been +proved beyond a shadow of a doubt that chickens +can be raised profitably by the person living +in town, as well as by the farmer with his +vast acres, providing the townsman knows a +few essential principles in regard to the proper +handling of the birds.</p> + +<p>Poultry products are becoming popular more +than ever before. This is due in part to the +increased price of beef and pork. Eggs are +an established part of the nation’s menu, while +the meat of the chicken is now within the +means of most American families. Since these +facts are recognized, there has been a revolution +in the poultry industry itself to cope with +the increased demand for eggs, meat, and breeding +stock.</p> + +<p>Many city people have taken advantage of +the opportunity of raising chickens, and many +an old packing box, or piano box has been relieved +of its original purpose of encasing furniture, +or other articles, and has done its bit +to act as part of a shelter for housing some +back-yard lot of chickens. What has been done,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</span> +can be done, and inasmuch as the value of the +egg, or the carcass of the bird still maintains +its high standard on the market, it stands to +reason that the poultry industry is still in its +infancy. Much more will be done in the future +than has been done in the past.</p> + +<p>Consequently, there is still one industry that +is not overcrowded, despite the great number +who have taken it up, either as a vocation, or +as an avocation. When it is considered that +New York City alone cannot get enough eggs +to supply the demand during the fall and winter +months, and is willing to pay, and pay dearly +for breakfast eggs, and that the vicinity of +Pataluma, Cal., finds it profitable to ship its +eggs across the continent to put them on the +New York market, it can be seen quite clearly +that there are excellent possibilities in poultry, +even in just a small back yard flock.</p> + +<p>The remainder of this booklet will be devoted +to showing the ordinary layman, who has had +no previous knowledge or experience, how he +can take a small flock, or a large flock, and +turn it into pleasure and profit. However, +one word of caution is necessary. Let no one +attempt to venture upon a poultry enterprise<span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</span> +on a big scale at first. History has shown +countless failures in such attempts, and history +has a way of repeating itself. It is always +wiser to start moderately, and work into it +gradually. This method always proves successful +if common sense and moderation are +exhibited.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II.<br> +<span class="fs70">THE POULTRY BREEDS</span></h2> +</div> + +<p>Before attempting to discuss the methods of +raising poultry it is deemed advisable to first +take up a discussion of the different breeds and +their characteristics. Outside of a few fancy +breeds, that are raised more for curiosity or +show purposes, we usually think of the breeds +of poultry as three distinct classes.</p> + +<p>The first of these three classes that we will +take up for discussion is what is termed the +egg breed. This breed is usually represented +by such birds as the Leghorn, Ancona, Campine, +Minorca, or the Houdan. Of these five +breeds, the Leghorn and the Minorca are by +far the most popular. There are different varieties +of all these breeds, but the White Leghorn,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</span> +and the Black Minorca are much more popular +in their respective breeds than are any other +variety. The other breeds are found scattered +here and there, but the Leghorn and Minorca +are easily the leading egg breeds. Both of +these breeds have many birds with yearly records +of over 300 eggs per year. Next let us +consider a few of the important characteristics +of these egg breeds.</p> + +<p>These breeds are small, light of weight, very +active, and very hard to confine in a small inclosure. +The average adult bird of these breeds +weighs about four pounds. They are neat and +attractive in appearance, have clean shanks, and +have large head parts, which are much more +susceptible to being frosted in cold weather, +than the other breeds.</p> + +<p>The egg production of the egg breed is of +the best. As has been stated, there are a great +number of birds in this class that have records +of over 300 eggs per year. Their eggs are +white shelled, of good size, and rather long. +However the meat of these birds, especially +when matured, is very tough, and the active +disposition of the egg breeds do not allow +them to put on surplus flesh as with the other<span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</span> +class of birds. Quick maturity is characteristic +of the egg breeds, however, and because of this +fact, they make excellent small broilers when +but a few months old. But it is useless to put +them on the market for meat when mature, as +they will not fatten like the heavier breeds.</p> + +<p>The disposition of these breeds, as has been +said, is active, nervous, and hard to confine. +Therefore, for the person with a small lot on +which to raise chickens, it would be well to +choose a heavier breed that stands confinement +better than these breeds. These birds are +active in the house in winter, or on the range +in summer, and owing to their natural tendency +to roam, they are always uneasy when confined +to a small yard. They also have excellent +powers of flight, and can usually fly over +a fence unless the fence is about eight feet +high.</p> + +<p>The egg breed, owing to the activity so characteristic +to such breeds, makes poor sitters +and mothers. It is very seldom that a fowl of +these breeds can content herself to sit on a +nest of eggs three weeks, which is the time +required to hatch the eggs. Their eggs are +usually hatched under a general purpose hen,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</span> +or with an incubator. They make poor mothers, +because they usually like to roam too far to +properly look after their young.</p> + +<p>Another point in favor of the egg breeds, +however, is their early maturity. Usually these +birds will mature in close to four months. This +allows them plenty of time to get into laying +condition in the fall, before cold weather starts, +and birds that can lay eggs during the months +of November and December are certainly an +asset, as eggs always bring the highest prices +on the market during these two months.</p> + +<p>These birds will live on less feed than any +other class because of their small size, and +their great foraging ability. However, these +breeds are not as hardy as the heavier breeds, +and will not stand the cold as well, because of +their lack of feathers, and large combs and +wattles. These large head parts are easily frost +bitten in cold weather, and when this happens +the birds generally stop laying until they have +recovered from the setback. With these few +words on the egg breed characteristics, let +us next consider the general purpose breed.</p> + +<p>When we speak of general purpose breeds, +we usually mean one of four different breeds.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</span> +The Plymouth Rock, Rhode Island Red, Orpington, +and the Wyandotte are the four leading +breeds of this class. Then there are quite a +few different varieties of each of these four +breeds, such as the Barred Rock, the White +Rock, the Buff Rock, etc. These breeds are +very good both as egg birds, and for meat purposes, +and find favor where ever they go. I +will attempt to analyze their characteristics, +bringing out their strong points and their weak +points, as I have already done with the egg +breeds.</p> + +<p>These breeds have been developed for egg +production, and as a result, have many birds in +the 300 egg class, as well as the strictly egg +breeds. If any are to be disposed of, they have +the ability to put on flesh and to bring a good +price on the market for meat. When one +realizes that usually one half of a hatch of +chickens are males, and the other half females, +it can be easily seen that the general purpose +bird has an advantage, in the sale of the male +birds, and of the surplus females, as they can +be fed fattening feeds, and a good profit made +from this source.</p> + +<p>The general purpose birds make excellent<span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</span> +mothers and sitters. They have a broody disposition, +and will set on the nest the required +three weeks to hatch the chickens. They will +also take care of their young as a parent should. +In fact, one of the criticisms of this class of +birds is that they are too broody, and are a +nuisance in this particular. They are far more +quiet than the egg breeds, and stand confinement +with no apparent discomforture. They +make an ideal bird for the back lot.</p> + +<p>These birds are fairly good foragers, but +take a little more feed to maintain their upkeep +than do the egg breeds. They have smaller +head parts than the egg breeds, and a heavier +coating of flesh and feathers thus enabling +them to withstand cold weather much better +than the egg breeds.</p> + +<p>These breeds, in most cases, have yellow +shanks, long well rounded bodies, and weigh +about six pounds at maturity. They are not as +nervous or as active as the egg breeds, but +require a month or two longer to mature and +to get into laying condition, than the egg +breeds.</p> + +<p>We will close this discussion on breed characteristics +with a few words on the meat breeds.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</span> +There are four generally recognized meat +breeds. These are the Brahams, Cochins, +Langshans, and the Cornish Game, with their +several varieties. The adult meat bird usually +weighs about eight pounds, but the male birds +weigh even more than this, sometimes reaching +twelve pounds or more. These birds are +rather awkward and clumsy, in fact, so much so +that they make poor sitters, as their awkwardness +often causes them to break the eggs in +the nest. They have an abundance of feathers +and meat on their body, which makes them +easy to winter. Generally speaking, the heavier +the bird, the poorer the laying ability, and +this is true with the meat breeds. They do not +lay a very large number of eggs during the +year, being raised mostly for their flesh, which +is unsurpassed for table purposes. As is the +custom with heavy animals, the meat birds are +lazy and sluggish, do not roam far for their +food, and consume a comparatively large +amount of grain for this reason. The meat +breeds take a longer period of time to gain +maturity than any other class, the average time +being about eight months. As has been said, +they are primarily a meat breed, and it is for<span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</span> +this purpose that they are mostly used. They +do lay eggs, however, and about 100 eggs per +year is a good average. They, like the general +purpose breed, lay a brown shelled egg, while +the egg breeds lay a white shelled egg, which +brings a higher price on every market in the +country but the Boston market. The brown +shelled egg brings the higher price on the +Boston market.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III.<br> +<span class="fs70">GETTING A START</span></h2> +</div> + +<p>We have now discussed quite minutely the +good and bad points of the three main classes +of birds. Each class, and each breed has its +merits and demerits. The one who wants to +make a start in raising poultry should choose +the breed that appeals to his likes the most, +and the one that he can realize the most success +with, under the conditions that he will +have to raise them. There is no best breed, +whether it is chickens, cows, or hogs. They +all have their good points, and their weak ones. +It is up to each individual to pick the breed +that appeals to him the most.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</span></p> + +<p>Granted that you have pretty near decided +the breed that you want to use, let us see how +we can secure our first birds, if we have none +as yet to start with. There are generally three +different ways in which we can secure our +foundation stock. The first way is by buying +adult birds and mating them, and raising the +resulting chicks. Another way is by purchasing +hatching eggs, either from a neighbor or +from a regular breeder or hatchery. The third +way is by buying day-old chicks from the various +hatcheries, and raising these to maturity. +Let us consider each of these methods separately, +and thereby inform ourselves on the +advantages and disadvantages of each method.</p> + +<p>In selecting adult birds for breeding purposes, +and thus relying on these birds to produce +the hatching eggs, a few points are necessary +to bear in mind, if one wants the best +results. As these birds are to be the foundation +of your future flock, don’t buy them too +hastily, and also do not try to buy the cheapest +birds that you can find on the market, as you +usually get just what you pay for. Therefore, +the first thing to do is to look through poultry +papers, farm weeklies, etc., or to inquire locally<span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</span> +from some neighboring breeder, and find out +just what it will cost you for adult females. +Having the desired breed in mind, it would be +advisable to post yourself on the qualifications, +and the disqualifications of this particular +breed. Standard weight for the breed is an +important consideration in this connection. If +the standard weight for an adult female is five +pounds, try to get females that weigh around +six pounds. These qualifications can be found +for every breed in the American Standard of +Perfection, a book published by the American +Poultry Association, and found in most libraries. +Another very important factor is the +health of the birds. No birds should be used +for breeding purposes that have ever had any +of the common poultry diseases, such as roup, +chicken pox, etc., as their resulting chicks will +also have a tendency toward this disease. +Select nothing but healthy, vigorous birds, of +standard weight and color, free from disease, +of good body conformation, and not less than +one year old. When pullets, or birds of less +than a year old, are used for breeding, the result +is a small egg, which hatches out a small, +under-sized chick.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</span></p> + +<p>If you can get in touch with your State College +of Agriculture, they can usually inform +you of some reliable breeder who can furnish +you with the kind of birds you want. In selecting +the cockerels, or male birds, one very +good way is to buy them from an unrelated +flock, and buy some that are especially strong +where the females are weak. For instance, if +the females that you have purchased are a +little light in color, it would be advisable to +secure males that are a little darker in color +than the standard calls for. It is never advisable +to mate more than ten females with one +male, because if more are mated, the fertility +of the eggs will suffer. Many successful breeders +even use two male birds with a pen of ten +females, alternating one male in the breeding +pen every other day. Thus the fertility of the +hatching egg is doubly assured.</p> + +<p>A cheaper method of securing the foundation +stock is in buying the hatching eggs, but not +quite as satisfactory as the first method. These +eggs are usually sold by the sitting, amounting +to fifteen eggs, or by the hundred. When buying +by the sitting, one buys from a regular +breeder, and pays anywhere from $1.50 up to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</span> +as high as $50 per sitting. It is not advisable +for the beginner to pay either of these extremes, +but to plan to buy eggs not over $5 +per setting. Then as you progress in the business, +you can purchase males to mate with +your females to gradually improve your flock. +This method necessitates the use of an incubator, +unless you can arrange with some friend +who will loan you the use of his incubator. +Of course, if you already have some mature +birds, even of a different breed, you can set +these eggs under these birds, when they become +broody in the spring, and secure even a +larger hatch than you can from the use of an +incubator. Generally, a mature bird can set +on about fifteen eggs, and hatch every fertile +egg in the sitting. A more detailed discussion +on incubation will be given in the next chapter.</p> + +<p>The third way that one can secure a start +in the poultry business, is by buying day-old +chicks. This is an industry that has grown by +leaps and bounds in the last few years. The +price generally charged for these day-old chicks +is twice as much as is charged for the hatching +eggs. A fair price for 100 day-old chicks is +from $15 to $20. Of course, the quality of these<span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</span> +chicks is inferior to the higher priced sittings +of eggs, but if one is not so particular as to +type and show purposes, this method is very +satisfactory. The day-old chick business is +founded upon the principle that it is not advisable +to feed the chick for the first forty-eight +hours of its life, because just before the +chick emerges from the shell, it absorbs the +remainder of the yolk of the egg, and it is exceedingly +dangerous to feed the chick any food +during that period, as the chick will be sure to +experience digestive troubles, if any thing besides +water and grit is given to the chicks for +the first two days. Therefore, these chicks +are placed in a well ventilated box and sent +by parcel post often as far as a thousand miles, +with no loss in mortality. For one that has +no incubator or mature hens, this offers a very +satisfactory method of starting out in the +chicken business. There are commercial hatcheries +all over the country that make a business +of purchasing hatching eggs from raisers of +purebred poultry, and hatching these eggs in +mammoth incubators, selling the chicks as soon +as hatched, in the manner described.</p> + +<p>Thus, the one interested in getting a start<span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</span> +in poultry has an option on either of these +three ways. The local circumstances of the +purchaser will largely determine which method +will be the best. But which ever method is +used, let me caution you that too much care +can not be given in finding a source that is +perfectly honorable in their business dealings, +as there has been in the past a considerable +amount of unfair dealing on the part of some +dealers in the poultry business, but I am glad +to say that these people are fast being weeded +out, and the tendency is now for honest, upright +dealings in all three branches of the industry, +as the dishonest people have found that +their methods forced them out of the business. +Not everybody will be independent of the incubator, +however, so we will next discuss something +in regard to the commercial incubator, +also including and comparing the natural incubation +of the egg.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV.<br> +<span class="fs70">INCUBATION</span></h2> +</div> + +<p>In order to get a better idea of artificial incubation, +let us first examine a few facts concerning +the way in which the hen hatches her<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</span> +eggs in the natural process. The fertile egg +is hatched when the egg is subjected to a heat +over 100 degrees, F., for a period of about +twenty-one days. The mother hen, by setting +on the eggs for this period, will bring off her +hatch on the twenty-first day, if she has been +given ordinary care. Let us see what are the +principles involved in this natural incubation, +that we may the better understand the artificial +method of incubation.</p> + +<p>When the hen first becomes broody, and +wants to sit, she might try to “steal her nest.” +This is another way of saying that she will try +to locate some secluded spot, and after she has +succeeded in laying a dozen or fifteen eggs, +she will then spend nearly her entire time on +the nest, until she proudly marches back to her +old haunts with a small clutch of chickens.</p> + +<p>It is a natural instinct of most hens to become +broody in the spring of the year, to reproduce +their kind. A constant desire to sit +on the nest is a sure sign of broodiness. When +one has the eggs to put under the hen to hatch, +it is best first to try to secure a general purpose +bird for this method, as they have been +found the best, for reasons previously stated.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</span></p> + +<p>Now let us prepare a nest for the bird, so +that she will have a good opportunity to do her +best work. We can either partition off a part +of the chicken house, or we can fix up a nest +in another building entirely, such as a garage, +barn, or any other building that we may have +on the premises. Next let us take some soil, +and make a round nest, over a foot in diameter, +and four or five inches deep. Then we will +dig out the center of the nest, so as to make +it hollow in the middle, leaving at least two +inches depth in the center. Then we will cover +this earth with a few inches of cut straw, shavings, +or leaves, and press this covering down +to conform to the shape of the soil foundation. +We can now place our eggs for hatching +in the nest, and put the bird on them. However, +best results will be obtained if we wait +until towards evening before we place the bird +on the nest, as she will be more contented +then. Take the bird that you have chosen +and place her gently upon the nest of eggs. +If she is at all broody, she will be quite contented +when she feels the eggs underneath her, +and settle down to business at once. The hen +should spend practically all of the next three<span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</span> +weeks upon the nest, the only time that she +should be allowed to leave being the short +time that she takes food and water twice a +day. Having a quiet place, and giving her +nourishment twice a day, she will be quite contented. +The hen does not need any special +ration during this time, other than one that is +fairly heating. Corn is excellent during this +period, supplemented with a few other grains, +such as oats, wheat, etc. A sufficient amount +of fresh water should be available, together +with some kind of green food, if possible, such +as cabbage or mangoes. The hatch will not be +endangered by the hen leaving the nest to eat. +In fact, it is beneficial to the eggs to be temporarily +cooled, at least once a day, while the +hen is off the nest for a while.</p> + +<p>The hen has a habit of turning the eggs +under her every day, not only removing their +position from the center to the outside, and +vice versa, but also turning them over, so that +perhaps the part of the egg that was in contact +with the nest one day, will be in contact +with the hen’s body the next day. Or, in other +words, she turns it half way around. These +are all peculiarities that we have to imitate in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</span> +artificial incubation, if we would be successful. +Now that we have seen the process of the +natural method of incubation, let us see how +the ingenuity of man has successfully imitated +the mother hen, and made possible the +hatching of a far greater number of chicks than +the hen can naturally hatch.</p> + +<p>In the first place, there are a great many +incubators on the market, some being made to +sell, and others being made to use. How shall +we determine the make to buy? That is not +the easiest question in the world, if one has +had no previous experience with incubators. +Do not necessarily buy the incubator that is +advertised the most. Sometimes incubator +companies have to advertise extensively to do +a sufficient volume of business. The safest +way to choose an incubator, if you really intend +to purchase one, is to get the advice of +some one who is using one, and has had success +with the machine that he has used. Some of +the cheaper makes have the trouble of too varying +a temperature, especially during the night. +If one has to arise five or six times a night +for three weeks to regulate the lamp to maintain +a constant temperature, then the incubator<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</span> +is more bother than it is worth. Therefore, +find out the makes of incubators that are giving +satisfaction in your own community, if you +are intending to purchase one, and then send +for one of a similar make. However, if you +have not enough eggs to warrant purchasing +one, then try to arrange with someone to loan +you one, or to put your eggs in with some +of theirs, so as to eliminate this expense.</p> + +<p>There are in general two types of incubators, +the hot water and the hot air, the latter being +quite the more popular of the two. There are +several different sizes of incubators, ranging from +a fifty egg capacity up to a thousand egg capacity +machine. An incubator with a hundred +egg capacity is usually sufficiently large enough +for the small poultry keeper. By running three +or four hatches during the same season, a good +number of chicks can be hatched.</p> + +<p>There are a few requirements that must be +fulfilled to realize the best results from an +incubator. First and foremost, always follow +the instructions that come with the incubator. +The manufacturers of the incubator know more +about their incubator than you do. Another +thing that should be borne in mind is that you<span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</span> +must not expect every egg that is placed in the +incubator to produce a chick. A very good +hatch is about 75 per cent. Of course, this +varies considerably, ranging all the way from +nothing to as high as sometimes 100 per cent. +Usually one can reasonably expect as high as +a 60 per cent hatch, at least, and very often +it goes considerably higher, according to the +conditions under which it is run.</p> + +<p>Moisture is a prime essential for the proper +running of an incubator, and this should be +provided for. If possible, arrange to run the +incubator in a cellar, or some damp place. This +can be aided, by sprinkling water on the floor, +etc. Care must be exercised in running the incubator +that fire is guarded against, and some +insurance companies make special provisions +in their policies for such occasions, and make +a slightly higher charge for their policies, because +of the danger.</p> + +<p>Another essential condition for a successful +hatch with the incubator is proper ventilation. +Most machines are provided with something +for the admission of fresh air. It is also necessary +that the room containing the incubator be +aired frequently to admit fresh air, but not in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</span> +such a manner that the eggs will become +chilled, or that too much air will be admitted +so as to carry off the moisture. Most incubators +carry proper directions so as to provide +against this danger.</p> + +<p>The third condition necessary for proper running +of the incubator is the maintenance of a +constant temperature. It is usually advisable +to have the temperature about 102 degrees F. +the first week, 103 degrees the second week, +and 104 degrees the third week. Any serious +deviation from 103 degrees will result in a poor +hatch.</p> + +<p>Now, then we will conclude this chapter with +a few pointers on running the incubator during +the hatching period. It is always well to +run the incubator a day or two empty, so as to +get the idea of how to best maintain the required +temperature. Clean the lamp thoroughly +before running, and then during the hatch, always +tend to the lamp after the eggs have +been turned, and never before, because if the +hands are smeared with kerosene, some of this +is bound to be left on the shells, which will result +in a poor hatch. Do not allow the lamp<span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</span> +to be in a draft, and clean the wick every day, +so as to prevent the lamp from smoking.</p> + +<p>After the first few days, the eggs should +be turned at least once a day, and even better, +twice a day. This is to imitate the mother hen, +who does this on the nest. If the eggs are not +turned, then the embryo of the chick will adhere +to the shell of the egg, and either die, +or be crippled beyond hope.</p> + +<p>We must imitate the mother hen again in the +artificial incubation of chicks, in regard to +cooling. We saw in the previous chapter, how +the hen leaves her nest occasionally to take +food and water, with no ill effects on the hatch. +Likewise we must cool the eggs in the incubator. +This can usually best be accomplished +while turning the eggs. Five or ten minutes +a day are usually sufficient for the proper cooling, +unless it is near the end of the hatch, +when twenty or thirty minutes can be used +for this purpose with safety.</p> + +<p>On the seventh and the fourteenth day, it is +a good plan to test the eggs in the incubator, +so that the infertile eggs may be removed. +This is done by a process known as candling. +Hold each egg up in front of a light and note<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</span> +the appearance of the interior of the egg. This +can be done by making a hole in a box, that +will fit over a light or lamp, and then holding +the eggs up to the light, showing through the +hole, which should be in line with the flame. +If the egg appears clear, free from any dark +spots, then the egg can be taken out of the +incubator, as it is not fertile, and will not +hatch. However, if the egg shows a dark spot, +about the size of a bean, and you can detect +small blood vessels running from it, then you +may be assured that the egg is coming along in +good shape, and will hatch out in due time.</p> + +<p>With these points well in mind, one will +have little difficulty in properly running an incubator, +providing he has a reliable machine +to begin with. Of the matters considered in +this chapter, probably the most important factor +of all is the constant maintenance of a uniform +temperature. Now, then, let us consider +that the chicks are pipping the shells and are +ready to start out in life. We will therefore +consider the care of the chicks in the next +chapter, until they are able to care for themselves.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V.<br> +<span class="fs70">BROODING</span></h2> +</div> + +<p>Whether we hatched the eggs by means of an +incubator, or bought the day-old chicks, if we +have no mother hen to care for the chicks +after they are hatched, we must take care of +them ourselves. This is called the brooding +period. Unless the hatch is quite late, which, +by the way, is not desirable, we will have to +arrange to supply some cheap, simple form of +artificial heat, to prevent the young chickens +from getting chilled. This is accomplished in +several different ways, but we will only discuss +the more common ways here.</p> + +<p>There are several different makes of readymade +brooders on the market, but one can in +a few hours spare time, construct a brooder +that will answer the purpose. The chief part +of the brooder is the source of heat. Usually +these heaters can be bought for a few dollars, +and placed in a good box supplied with a little +litter on the bottom.</p> + +<p>A common arrangement with brooder equipments<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</span> +is to have two compartments, one where +a hover is placed, and the rest of the brooder +constituting a run for the chicks. The two +compartments are usually partitioned off from +each other, allowing just enough room at the +bottom of the partition to allow the chicks to +pass from one compartment to the other. In +the hover compartment is placed the heater, +and a metal canopy, so that the heat will be +held down close to the floor, where the chicks +are located. At first, the chicks should be confined +to this hover entirely, because they are +liable to get lost if they wander away from the +hover, and consequently die from chilling. The +temperature of the hover compartment during +the first week should be about 96 degrees F., +and each succeeding week it should be lowered +by at least two degrees. This can be done by +controlling the lamp, or what ever heater is +used, or by gradually raising or lowering the +canopy over the chicks. This method gradually +toughens the chicks up, so that they can soon +be let out doors. After the first week or so, +they should be encouraged to get out into the +other compartment for exercise, as this will +aid in making them hardy. After the first few<span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</span> +weeks of the life of the chicks are past, they +will need less care and attention. These first +few weeks are the critical weeks of the bird’s +life. After the chicks get accustomed to the +temperature out in the run of the brooder, it +is advisable to cut a small hole at the run end +of the brooder box, so that on pleasant days +they can run outside on the ground around the +brooder. In this case, however, they must not +be allowed to run very far at first, and only +for a short while until they gradually become +accustomed to the practice.</p> + +<p>Another important consideration in raising +the young chick to maturity is the matter of +food. Probably no other thing is responsible +for such a high mortality in young chicks, as +is improper feeding. We have learned in a +previous chapter that it is exceedingly dangerous +to feed the chick anything in the line of +food for the first two days of its life. Many +people are afraid the chicks will die if not fed +immediately after hatching, and hasten to feed +the chick all that it will eat. Unless the chick +is endowed with a wonderful digestive system, +it will succumb to this over-feeding through +digestive disorders. It is permissible to put<span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</span> +a little grit before the chick at this time, because +the chick has no teeth, and never will +have, so they eat the grit, and this grit passes +down to the gizzard, which grinds the food in +place of grinding with the teeth, as with other +animals. Fresh water is also good for the chick +during this period, as the water quenches their +thirst, and makes them livelier. Towards the +end of the second day, it is well to feed the +chick a little sour skim milk, or buttermilk. +Sour milk is superior to the sweet milk for two +reasons. First, the sour skim milk has bacteria +that aid in digestion, and secondly, it will be +found that it will be hard to keep the milk +sweet all the time, and by feeding sweet milk +part of the time, and then letting it become +sour, digestive troubles are liable to develop. +Hence, by having it sour all the time, no danger +from this source will be experienced.</p> + +<p>Now, we are ready to consider what kind of +grain we shall feed the chick. On the third +day we can start to feed a little grain. What +is known as pinhead oatmeal is very good to +start the young chick out on. Some feed hard +boiled eggs and dried bread for the first feeding +with good results. It is important to note<span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</span> +that only enough of this first solid food should +be fed that they can clean up in a short time. +Keep them hungry, and remember that it is +much safer to under feed than to over feed.</p> + +<p>For the next week, or so, a scratch ration, +composed of cracked corn, pinhead oatmeal, +cracked wheat, together with a little grit, and +finely ground oyster shells can be fed. This +can be fed in the litter, so that the chicks have +to exercise to get it. In fact, that is just what +we mean by a scratching ration; one composed +of whole or cracked grains, mixed in with the +litter, so that the chicks will have to scratch +for their feed, and thereby obtain the exercise +necessary to their health. If a little green +feed of any kind can be added, so much the +better. Green grass is excellent to throw into +the chicks.</p> + +<p>After two weeks or more of this kind of feed, +it is well to supplement this ration with a dry +mash. A dry mash is a feed composed of +ground feeds, that require no work on the part +of the bird to grind. Feeds like wheat bran, +ground oats, corn meal, etc., are good examples +of such feeds. Wheat bran is especially well +liked by these young birds, and it is recommended<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</span> +that they be allowed to have this as a +large part of their dry mash. This feed should +not be fed in the litter, as the cracked grains, +but placed in some such container as a pan, or +better still, in a regular feed hopper. It can +readily be seen that if this finely ground grain +was scattered in the litter, it would be largely +lost and wasted. Also, if put in a pan, the pan +must be low enough to be accessible to the +birds, and covered over in such a manner that +the chicks will not get in and walk around +in it. A homemade hopper can be easily built, +so that the chicks can just get their heads in, +and no more. Do not forget that the sour skim +milk or buttermilk must be fed all this time. +In fact, this part of the feed should be fed +right through the bird’s life, as it supplies the +animal protein, which is so necessary to the +proper development of the bird’s growth.</p> + +<p>Now, then, just a few more words in closing +this chapter on brooding. We should aim to +toughen the birds up as quickly as possible, +so that when they are about two months old, +no artificial heat will be necessary, and if the +birds are of a late hatch, this can be accomplished +much sooner. Encourage them to get<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</span> +out of doors as quickly as possible, and to get +green feed.</p> + +<p>A very serious cause of death among young +chickens is from disease. White diarrhoea is +probably one of the most common of these +diseases, and unfortunately, one of the most +fatal. If the droppings are of a white, watery +nature, with an offensive odor, you may well +believe that this disease is present, and the +thing to do is to get the birds thus affected +out of the way at once, and disinfect with some +good disinfectant. However, if the precautions +are taken that are set forth in this booklet, no +danger of this dreaded disease can be anticipated.</p> + +<p>Now that we have got the chicks along +through the brooding period, let us next consider +just how we shall raise these chicks to +maturity, so as to get them ready to lay eggs, +or to make a good meat carcass.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI.<br> +<span class="fs70">REARING CHICKS TO MATURITY.</span></h2> +</div> + +<p>One of the chief things to remember in raising +young chicks to maturity is that we must +keep them growing at all times. A check in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</span> +their growth will retard their growth severely, +and this must be avoided by the one that wants +his chicks to get into winter laying condition +before the cold weather comes. We will now +consider a few important factors that are necessary +to bring our chicks along to rapid growth.</p> + +<p>Of course, where free, unrestricted range is +possible, the chicks will progress faster than +when cooped up in a small yard. If no free +range is possible, it will be found advantageous +to at least let the chicks run about the yard of +the lot. In this manner, they can pick up considerable +food in the shape of worms, insects, +etc., that will furnish valuable growing food for +them. Let me repeat again the necessity of +having milk in some form as a constituent of +the chicks’ food. Any food that comes from an +animal, whether it be milk or a part of the +animal itself, is highly essential to the growth +of the chick. Such foods contain an element +known as vitamines, which scientists have recently +discovered contribute greatly to the +growth and upkeep of a growing animal. Vitamines +are also found to some extent in green +feeds, such as carrots, cabbages, mangoes, etc. +Even well cured alfalfa hay contains this important<span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</span> +element. It is quite obvious, therefore, +that if the chicks are out roaming around the +yard or range, they not only secure the exercise +that is necessary for their proper development, +but they also pick up insects, as has +been mentioned, and considerable green feed, +such as grass, weeds, and various other odds +and ends.</p> + +<p>If a fair sized lot or range is to be had, then +it will be found a great aid to make a little +house for the chicks to live in during the +nights on the range, although care must be exercised +that they be protected from enemies, +such as rats, crows, skunks, weasels, owls, etc. +Such a house need not be expensive at all if +it be made out of an old packing box that will +protect the chicks from rain and enemies.</p> + +<p>Another quite essential feature for the promotion +of the maximum growth of the chicks +during the warm summer months is the provision +for shade. If there are some trees about +the yard or range, this will answer the purpose +satisfactorily, but if there are no trees +where the chicks roam, then some artificial +shade is advised. Some people plant corn for +this purpose, allowing the chicks to range<span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</span> +among the corn plants when the corn has grown +sufficiently high. The chicks will not harm +the corn, so two ends can be accomplished by +this means. Others provide this shade by +gathering old brush together and making an +artificial shade in this manner. During the hot +days of summer, the chicks will suffer from the +heat to a marked degree if exposed to the hot +rays of the sun. An ideal method used on many +farms is to place the chicks in the orchard, +where there is an orchard, and let the chicks +roam in the shade of the orchard trees.</p> + +<p>Where birds are necessarily confined to a +small yard, one method that has been worked +out satisfactorily, is to fence the yard off into +two or more divisions, and to plow up the land. +Then various crops can be sown at different +intervals, so that when one range, or division, +is consumed by the chicks, they can be turned +into another division where the forage crop is +up and ready to be consumed. As soon as the +chicks are turned out of the first lot, this lot +can be immediately plowed up again, and some +more seeds planted, so that this range will be +ready for the chicks when the second lot furnishes +no more nourishment for them. It might<span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</span> +be added here that many town flocks of full +grown birds are maintained, by this very system, +and it has worked out very nicely. Such +grains as buckwheat, rye, oats, peas, and soy +beans are all excellent crops to sow in this +manner, using oats and peas for the first crop, +because they mature quicker than the other +crops mentioned.</p> + +<p>If the chicks have access to a fair amount +of range they will not need a great deal of +grain as a ration. However, it is always advisable +to feed some grains to keep the birds +continually growing as fast as possible. It +has been proved conclusively that the first +gains made by the growing chicks are the +cheapest, in regard to the cost of feed, so let +us keep this in mind during the time when +we have them on range. To accomplish this +end, it is well to have a dry mash of the kind +of grains that are fairly rich in the substance +called protein always available in the hopper. +The reason for this need of protein feed is +simply that the growing bird uses this element +largely in the growth of its body. Protein goes +to make up the bony framework of the body, +and the muscles, tendons, etc. Therefore, feeds<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</span> +containing protein, or a fair amount of it at +least, should be ground up, and kept before the +birds. Oats, bran, or middlings, wheat and +barley, are all fairly rich in protein, and some +of these feeds, in a finely ground condition, +should be included. It is also well to add some +corn meal, although this feed is not high in +protein, it supplies a great amount of energy +for the bird to move around with. As soon as +the birds are old enough commence to feed +cracked grains. As has been said in a previous +chapter, the bird has no teeth, so must +rely upon grit to grind this feed in the gizzard.</p> + +<p>Therefore, unless the birds have a wide +range, this grit must be artificially supplied. +Then the birds can help themselves to their +needs, and suffer no digestive troubles. Fresh +water must be before the birds at all times, +and if no natural source is available, such as +a running stream or brook, then fresh water +must be placed in some sanitary container out +in the yard or range.</p> + +<p>From four to six months from the time the +chick is hatched, it should be ready to start laying +eggs. The chick first has to get its growth +and maturity, and then there is an apparent<span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</span> +resting period for a few weeks, to allow the +organs of the bird to get ready for egg production. +We will next consider how we shall feed +these birds, granting that we now have them +ready to produce the eggs.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII.<br> +<span class="fs70">FEEDING FOR EGG PRODUCTION</span></h2> +</div> + +<p>As has been said in an earlier chapter, to +get the maximum egg production, three things +are essential. They are: good foundation stock, +proper housing, and proper feeding. We may +have the best chicken house in the world, and +the highest priced stock obtainable, but if we +do not feed our birds the right kind of food, +all our other efforts are in vain. Let us consider +first a few facts concerning the composition +of the egg, and then we will be able to +understand more intelligently why we should +feed the laying bird these certain feeds.</p> + +<p>About 14 per cent of the composition of the +egg is protein, 10 per cent fat, and the remainder, +except the shell, is water. Now it +must be remembered that the ordinary protein +supply of most food materials is relatively low.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</span> +Corn contains about 7 per cent digestible protein, +oats and barley about 9 per cent, and bran +about 12 per cent. The roughages are considerably +lower, while green feeds carry about +one or two per cent protein. From this we can +get an idea about the necessity of watching the +feeding to the extent that this valuable constituent +is sufficiently supplied. Furthermore, +the hen that is producing these eggs needs a +fair amount of this protein for further growth +and body upkeep. Another point worth remembering +is the fact that the bird, or any other +animal, through natural instinct, always sees +to it that the first requirement, that of bodily +growth and upkeep are maintained first with +the food they are given, so that to get the most +from the birds, let us not hold them down to +just a maintenance ration, but give them +enough in addition so that they can not only +maintain their body requirements properly, but +also have enough food material to yield a +product.</p> + +<p>The ration for the laying hen should consist +of the two forms of grain; first, the whole or +cracked grains that comprise the scratch ration, +and which should always be thrown in the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</span> +litter, so that they will have to exercise to get +it, and second, the dry mash, or a mixture of +various grains that are ground up and fed in +hoppers. As has been stated before, this grinding +of the feed is simply to make it easily digestible. +Furthermore, such finely ground +grains usually contain a higher percentage of +protein than the other grains. By this is meant +that feeds like bran, oilmeal, etc., are quite a +bit higher in protein than are grains like corn, +wheat, barley, etc.</p> + +<p>The next important feed requirement for the +laying hen should be a mineral feed of some +kind. With many farm and city flocks this important +consideration is entirely ignored. Many +times the reason for poor egg production rests +solely in the lack of proper mineral foods. +When it is considered that about 12 percent +of the entire egg is composed of shell material, +it can readily be seen that the feeding of this +material is important, and worthy of attention. +We can give the laying bird all the rich feeds +that we can buy, but if we withhold from her +the material that goes to form the shell, then +the bird will be unable to lay her eggs because +she has no shell to cover the egg. There are<span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</span> +different sources of mineral food, but all authorities +are agreed that oyster shells form the +most economical source of shell material. These +oyster shells can be bought at grocery stores, +or poultry supply houses. This material should +be placed in a box or, better still, a hopper, +where it will be accessible to the birds at all +times. Clam shells, lime rock grit, and dry +bone in small sizes are other sources of mineral +matter, and possibly even better results can +be obtained by adding a small quantity of these +other feeds to the oyster shells, but plan to +have oyster shells as the basis of the mineral +supply. Charcoal is sometimes fed to chickens +with good results. Some birds eat this, while +others will not. It is claimed that charcoal +aids in regulating the digestive system of the +fowl. One can try this out to satisfy his own +ideas in this regard.</p> + +<p>Animal feed is the next class of feeds that +we will consider in the feeding of our laying +flock. It is the testimony of poultrymen that +when they hang up a fresh piece of meat in +the poultry house, such as a part of a calf, an +old horse, rabbit, or any other such carcass, the +birds always respond with a much higher yield<span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</span> +in egg production. This simply reinforces the +statement made in a previous chapter, that +animal protein of some kind is needed by the +birds if they are to do their best. If meat is +supplied, care must be exercised that it does +not spoil before it is consumed. It is better +to put in small pieces at a time, so that the +birds will eat it up quickly. If this meat can +be run through a grinder of some kind, it will +be eaten much more readily than if it has to +be torn to pieces by the birds. Milk of some +kind is also an animal protein, as has been repeated +here several times. Meat meal or tankage +contains a high percentage of protein, and +as this is an animal product, it is an economical +feed.</p> + +<p>Water is our last class of feeds for the laying +hen. This can be supplied in two ways. +The first way is from the water direct, placed +in some kind of a pan that is covered so that +the birds can not soil the water, by perching +on the edge of the pan, etc. Fresh water should +be before the birds at all times, as we have +just learned a few pages back that about 65 +per cent of the egg is composed of water. Besides +this, the birds need water for their body<span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</span> +requirements. In the winter when the birds +spend practically all of their time in the poultry +house, and can not have the opportunity of +picking up grass, and other green feeds, we +can supply water to them in the form of some +kind of green feeds, such as sprouted oats, +cabbages, mangoes, or any other vegetables to +be had. All these feeds are to be recommended +highly, as they not only are composed largely +of water, but add bulk to the ration, and aid +in keeping the bird laxative. Sprouted oats can +be raised in shallow pans, and given to the +birds in small quantities at a time. It is usually +advisable to have several pans of sprouting +oats say, for instance, one for every day in the +week, so that a fresh supply can be given to +the birds every morning. Nearly every supply +house has patent oat sprouters to sell at reasonable +prices. Cabbages and mangoes are also +fed extensively to the laying birds during the +winter months, but provision must be made +before hand to raise them in the summer, and +to properly store them in the fall, so that they +will be fresh when taken out of storage for feeding. +One very good way to do this is to pile<span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</span> +them together in a basement and cover them +with sand.</p> + +<p>Let us next consider a few practical grain +rations, that have been tried out by successful +poultry men. These rations are always +classified as scratch rations and dry mash rations. +One very good ration is as follows: +Scratch Feed, 3 parts cracked corn, 1 part +wheat, 1 part oats, 1 part barley. Dry mash, +1½ part bran, 1½ part middlings, 1 part corn +meal, 1 part meat scraps or tankage. Another +very good practical ration is composed as follows: +Scratch feed, 3 parts corn, 1 part oats, +and 1 part barley. Dry mash, one part each of +bran, middlings, ground corn, ground oats and +meat scraps. These feeds should always be +measured by weight, and not by bulk.</p> + +<p>Now, then, just a few words in regard to +the feeding of these grains. Always send the +birds to roost with full crops. This is especially +important during cold weather. It is +much better if they be allowed to fill up on +scratch grain rather than dry mash. The +scratch ration is more bulky than the mash +feed, and helps in keeping the bird warm. In +fact, many successful poultry men close the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</span> +hopper of their dry mash ration during the +afternoon, and thus make the birds take the +scratch feed in the litter, thereby encouraging +the birds to obtain exercise, also.</p> + +<p>We will close this chapter with a brief discussion +on a recent development in the system +of feeding birds. This is in regard to the introduction +of artificial light. This practice has +successfully passed beyond the “fad” stage and +is now being used by successful poultry men +all over the country. By supplying this extra +light, the working day is thereby lengthened to +the extent that the light is prolonged, and consequently, +gives the bird a day similar to a +summer day in length. The birds, by having +this extra period of light, work just that much +longer, and as a result, they are able to make +more eggs. Everywhere this system has been +given a trial, it has been found a paying proposition. +One very common method in supplying +this light is by connecting the alarm clock to +the electric lighting system and setting the +alarm at a period around four or five o’clock in +the morning. This throws on the light in the +chicken house, and then when the owner arises +in the morning, he can go out and turn out the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</span> +lights if it is light enough to do so by that +time.</p> + +<p>Thus we have considered the main points in +feeding for egg production. While we have +some of these important feeding principles still +fresh in our mind, let us in the next chapter +consider feeding birds for their flesh, because +one very important part of the poultry business +lies in the feeding of birds for meat. In the +ordinary flock of birds, there are always some +that we want to dispose of, such as the male +birds and the culls of the females. If we know +how to fatten these, we will be that much +better off financially.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII.<br> +<span class="fs70">FEEDING FOR MEAT PRODUCTION</span></h2> +</div> + +<p>The primary object in feeding birds for the +market is to get them well covered with flesh, +so that they will be plump all over. It is the +difference in the weight of the bony skeleton +and the weight of the well filled out carcass +that determines the amount of edible meat on +the bird. Hence our object in this process is +to put on as much surplus flesh as we can.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</span></p> + +<p>Usually there are three classes of birds that +are put on the market for meat purposes. They +are roasters, broilers, and old hens. Roasting +chickens are very common on the market, and +the object is large size with a tender carcass. +These can be either pullets or cockerels, or +capons. They are often put on the market during +the late fall or early winter, and bring the +highest prices at that time.</p> + +<p>Broilers are birds about three or four months +old, forced along to a rapid growth, but still +possessing tender flesh. This offers an excellent +way of disposing of the male birds, since +usually the sex of the young birds can be distinguished +at about two months of age.</p> + +<p>Old hens constitute the third division of the +meat classes placed upon the market, and are +generally composed of those birds that are +through laying, or the ones that have been +found to be unprofitable. Their meat is usually +much tougher than the first two mentioned +classes, and consequently used in city restaurants +for meat pies, etc.</p> + +<p>In fattening birds for the market, a somewhat +different procedure is followed than in +feeding for egg production. We found that in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</span> +feeding for egg production we encouraged the +birds in every way possible to take all the exercise +that they could get. We do just the +opposite in putting flesh on the birds. We restrict +their exercise as much as possible, and +pen them up in small quarters so that their +feed largely goes to nothing but putting flesh +on their bodies. It can easily be seen that +when birds are roaming around, exercising +more or less all day long, that there is little +chance for them to get very fat.</p> + +<p>Now as to the nature of the feed for fattening +these birds. We will still need some protein +feeds, but not as much as in the case of +feeding for eggs. However, we will need feeds +which are quite rich in carbohydrates and fat. +These are easily obtained and are relatively +cheap. Corn is an excellent ration for this +purpose.</p> + +<p>Since the birds are confined to small pens, +and exercise restricted, it becomes evident that +digestion becomes an important factor here. +Therefore, it is advisable to have plenty of +grit before the birds at all times, so that their +food will be properly ground.</p> + +<p>We must not get the idea, just because we<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</span> +are feeding for flesh, that the birds should be +stuffed to their limit with feed. To do so, +would be to have a lot of the birds off feed, +and consequently we would be worse off than +not to feed them enough. It is best to plan to +feed them about three times a day, and to +feed them all that they will cleanup in a +certain length of time, as from twenty minutes +to half an hour. Some are successful in feeding +only twice a day, instead of three times a +day.</p> + +<p>Corn is usually the basis of fattening rations +and should always have a prominent place in +the ration. Here again, milk in some form is +excellent to supply some of the protein that +is needed. Corn must be supplemented by +other grains, such as oats, barley or middlings, +provided they are in a finely ground condition. +Some feeders follow the plan of feeding part +of these grains in the form of a wet mash, +using the skim milk to moisten the mash, +but when this is done, care must be exercised +in seeing that the mash is cleaned up at every +feeding, otherwise the trough will become +mouldy, with bad results to the birds.</p> + +<p>There has come into use within recent years<span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</span> +a method of fattening birds by what is known +as crate fattening. This is practiced considerably +by some of the big packing companies. +The birds are bought up from the surrounding +territory and brought into the central fattening +station. They are then placed in small pens, +or batteries, as they are called, and fed a +ration composed largely of skim milk and corn +meal, with a few other feeds added, such as +red dog flour, bran, etc. This is mixed into +a thin, pasty feed, and fed the birds from a +trough running along in front of the pens. +They are fed this way for a period of two +weeks or more, and are then taken out, dressed, +and sold to the big city markets as milk fed +chickens, and always bring several cents a +pound more on the market than other poultry, +because of the tenderness of the flesh. In this +process, even greater care must be exercised +in watching the feeding of the birds, and only +feed that they will cleanup in about fifteen +or twenty minutes.</p> + +<p>Crate feeding has appealed to many town lot +poultry men, who have bought up culls of the +neighboring territory, put them in small crates +or pens, and fed them this milk feed for a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</span> +few weeks and then marketed them, securing +the top prices on the market.</p> + +<p>We have now discussed the most important +items connected with the feeding of the birds +for various purposes. Let us now examine the +living quarters of the birds, and see if we can +improve the housing conditions in which the +birds live during the winter months.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX.<br> +<span class="fs70">COMMON FAULTS OF POULTRY HOUSES</span></h2> +</div> + +<p>If you were to take a trip through the surrounding +country, with the intention of inspecting +the living quarters of farm poultry, +in general, you would discover some of the most +wretched houses imaginable. All of our intelligent +feeding would be of little use if we +penned our chickens up in a coop with little +sunlight, poor ventilation, cold, damp floors, +drafty sides, and foul, damp air. It doesn’t +cost any more to build a poultry house with +correct principles involved, than it does to +build one that lacks these essential features. +The birds care very little about the appearance +of the house. They want fresh dry air, freedom<span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</span> +from drafts, a warm floor, and plenty of +sunshine.</p> + +<p>One of the most common faults with most +poultry houses is the matter of ventilation. +When poultry raising was first looked upon as +a promising business, many men erected houses +containing a large proportion of glass. It was +thought that the sunshine was the only necessary +feature for the birds under winter conditions, +and they made their chicken houses +veritable hot houses. But the results were not +as had been anticipated. It was found that +while the houses were fairly warm in the day +time, they cooled off considerable at night, and +poor results were obtained from this wide range +between the day temperature and the night +temperature. Then another step was taken by +these pioneers. They decided to heat their +houses artificially. But even this system did +not bring forth the big yield of eggs that had +been hoped for. In all this expensive procedure, +a very important element had been +overlooked, and that was the matter of fresh +air.</p> + +<p>About twenty years ago, there was devised +a poultry house that was a radical departure<span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</span> +from this previous type of house. It was called +the open front house, and gave surprisingly +good results, where all previous types had +failed, as regards egg production. This house +was constructed briefly as follows: It was of +the shed roof type; that is, had just one slant +in the roof, the highest pitch being in front, +and the lowest pitch in the rear. It had plenty +of window light in the front side, about half +of the south side, or front, being devoted to +windows. The rest of the front was left open, +save for a thin muslin curtain to cover the +open space during bad weather. These curtains +were tacked to wooden frames, and swung +on hinges, so that they could be swung in to +cover the open space at will. The most remarkable +thing about the system was that the +hens began to lay eggs, when proper feeding +was obtained. Later, this led to the conclusion, +now generally accepted, that the birds can +stand considerable cold, providing it is not a +damp cold, and that the temperature of the +house is considerably more uniform between +night and day than was the case with the glass +house.</p> + +<p>As a result many poultrymen who are making<span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</span> +money with poultry use some such system +as the open front house with various changes. +They have found that fresh air is an absolute +requirement to get the best results. But this +matter brought out a few more interesting facts. +It was found that dampness was a big drawback +to egg production in cold weather. If the +damp foul air, breathed out by the chickens, +could not escape from the poultry building, the +chickens did not have the health and vigor that +they did in well ventilated houses. Consequently, +the curtain helped considerably in allowing +the fresh air to come in, and for the +foul air to go out. The damp air, being heavily +laden with moisture, settled to the bottom of +the house, where the birds scratch, and unless +the curtains extend fairly well down near the +bottom of the house, the damp air has not a +very good chance to escape, and consequently, +there will be more or less moisture even with +this type of house, if the damp air has no +chance to escape.</p> + +<p>Another common fault with a great many +poultry buildings is that they are drafty. The +walls should all be air tight, except the south +wall, or front, as has been mentioned. If<span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</span> +there is a draft in the house the birds will +contract a cold, and will take a prolonged vacation +from their job of laying eggs. It is +not uncommon to find a crack in the wall, +just behind the perches of the house, and when +we consider that in such houses the birds stay +all night in a direct draft, it is little wonder +that they appear so unhealthy.</p> + +<p>There are a few other common faults that +we will consider before bringing this chapter to +a close. It is often found that there are too +many birds cramped into a small house. It +is a good plan to allow at least four square +feet of floor space for each bird that you winter. +For instance, if we were planning on +having one hundred birds this winter, we could +have a house built twenty-five feet long, and +sixteen feet deep. Multiplying these two figures, +gives us four hundred square feet. Dividing +this product by four, gives us allowance +for one hundred birds. Then, lastly, the floor, +itself. Too often the floor is cold. If a cement +floor, we should cover it with about six +or eight inches of good, clean, dry litter. Even +if made of wood, a good substantial litter should +be maintained. The best litter is probably of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</span> +straw, but peat moss is fast gaining favor at +present, where straw is not obtainable. With +these few objections to guard against, let us +next discuss just how we shall go about constructing +a poultry house that will overcome +the faults mentioned.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X.<br> +<span class="fs70">HOUSING POULTRY FOR PROFIT.</span></h2> +</div> + +<p>In discussing plans for a modern poultry +house, let it be mentioned at the outset that +this does not necessarily mean that our modern +house will be expensive, any more than the one +that is built on old ideas. In fact, many of +the older houses were much more expensive +than the modern houses of today. As long as +the poultry building includes the necessary +principles for the birds’ well-being, and this can +be accomplished with little added expense, +that is all that is necessary.</p> + +<p>In commenting upon the common faults of +most poultry houses in the previous chapter, +we found that they generally lack one, or all +of such items as ventilation, dryness, sunlight, +adequate floor space, protection from rats,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</span> +protection from extremes of temperature, and +simplicity of design. In arranging for a better +house for our birds, let us plan to keep these +factors in mind, so as to get the most from +our birds.</p> + +<p>Whether we are to build a new poultry +house, or to remodel an old one, we can design +it so that all of these factors will be in evidence. +If we have an old poultry house, or if +we can buy cheaply an old poultry coop, that +has fairly good lumber in it, we can probably +do the remodeling somewhat cheaper than if +we have to buy all new lumber. If we do purchase +all new lumber, it is not advisable to get +cheap lumber, but buy the first grade, because +it is necessary that the walls of the house be +air tight, and this is seldom possible with cheap +lumber.</p> + +<p>We will first consider briefly the possibilities +of remodeling an old poultry house. Probably +the first thing that we will do is to cut some +openings in the front of the house for windows +and curtains. From one-half to two-thirds +of the front should be devoted to window +lights. The remainder should be left for the +muslin curtains to allow for fresh air to enter,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</span> +and for foul air to pass out. These should +not be cut up too high, but start at least a +foot below the roof, and have the window lights +extend at least half way down the front of the +house. The curtains should extend quite a bit +further down to the bottom of the house, to +allow the foul air sufficient opportunity to +escape.</p> + +<p>We should next examine the other walls and +roof to make sure that they are not drafty, +nor leak water. Usually these walls can be +patched up with other boards, or heavy roofing +paper, so that no draft is possible. In northern +climates, where weather below zero is +common, best results will be obtained by having +two thicknesses of walls, to protect against +cold nights. Roofing paper is excellent to put +between the two walls, or even on the outside +to aid in this matter. If the roof leaks, it +might be advisable to re-shingle part of it, +and here again roofing paper helps in making +it weather tight.</p> + +<p>We must next examine the floor. If a +wooden floor, then it is advisable to raise the +house up from the ground about six inches, +supporting it with posts. Some people follow<span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</span> +the plan of placing old tin pans or plates upside +down at the top of these posts and then +setting the house on, thereby eliminating the +danger of rats, as the rats cannot climb over +the tin pans. If the house is to be a permanent +structure it will be found best to lay a +concrete floor, as this floor will last for all +time, and will not need repairing. Such a floor +is rat proof, but must be covered with a good +litter.</p> + +<p>If a new house is to be constructed, then it +will be best to follow the principles laid down +for a remodeled house to the extent of the +open front, weather tight walls and roof, good +floor, and dry living conditions. Wood is the +most popular material that is used in building +chicken houses. Generally, 2 by 4s placed about +two feet apart are used for studding. Matched +lumber or rough lumber aided by battens or +roofing paper compose the walls, this making +them free from drafts. The matched lumber +is generally placed on the studding horizontally. +The lumber should be dry and free from knot +holes, and well nailed together.</p> + +<p>For the roof, shingles can be used, or some +of the prepared roofing paper on the market<span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</span> +now has given good results. For quite flat +roofs, two or three ply roofing paper is preferred +to the shingles.</p> + +<p>We will now discuss the common types of +poultry houses. The most popular type and +the cheapest, is the shed roof house. This +house is usually about eight feet high in front, +slanting gradually to the rear to a height of +about five feet. It just has one slant, and, as +has been said, is cheaper to build than other +types of houses. It is also much easier to keep +warm in the winter, because of the low roof, +which means less space has to be heated by +the birds. Instead of curtain front houses in +such a type of poultry house, many poultry +men are using bafflers to let in the air. These +bafflers are similar to a blind used to shade +living houses in some parts of the country. +They are composed of slats less than an inch +apart, and placed in a slanting position, rather +than vertical or horizontal.</p> + +<p>The gable roof house is another popular +type. This differs from the shed roof type +of house in that its roof comes to a peak, +with two pitches, such as most modern bungalow +dwelling houses have. This system leaves<span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</span> +a larger space at the top of the house, and is +not as warm as the shed roof type. It also +costs more to build. However, it possesses the +advantage of allowing a straw loft to be placed +at the top of the house, which is an excellent +way to get rid of excess moisture, when it can +be expelled no other way. The straw has the +power to absorb the excess moisture during the +winter, but should be removed in the spring, +as it furnishes an excellent hiding place for +mites, an insect that we will discuss more +thoroughly in a later chapter.</p> + +<p>The half monitor type is not so popular as +the two types already named, and costs considerably +more than either of the two previous +types discussed. This type of house has an +arrangement similar to two shed roof houses, +facing each other, the rear house being somewhat +higher than the front house. Of course, +such houses have their advantages, but for the +one who would start with moderation in the +poultry business, the shed roof, or the gable +roof type will be far more attractive. We have +discussed the types of houses in this chapter. +The fixtures, or chicken furniture, has so far +been omitted. Let us go inside of our modern<span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</span> +chicken house now, and see what is needed in +the line of equipment to complete our efficient +egg production.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI.<br> +<span class="fs70">INTERIOR FIXTURES FOR THE LAYING HOUSES</span></h2> +</div> + +<p>There are certain devices that save a great +deal of labor for the poultry man, and also +give the birds a more contented atmosphere. +We will start in with the floor. I want to +repeat here, briefly, what has already been +said in regard to the litter on the floor of the +house. Birds with cold feet cannot be healthy. +If the floor is covered with a six-inch litter of +straw, or shavings, the floor will be warm, and +they can be given a scratching ration that will +make them exercise for their food. By all +means do not fail to have a good litter of +some kind on the floor during the late fall +and winter months.</p> + +<p>The birds are rather peculiar creatures, when +it comes to retiring for the night. They do not +seek a place to lay down, but they look for +something that will resemble a limb of a tree, +where they can perch during the night. Man<span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</span> +has therefore supplied something along this +line, by erecting round poles, made of wood, +so that the birds will have a convenient place +to rest for the night. A few precautions must +be guarded against here, however, as very few +poultry men have given their birds suitable +perches yet. The perches should be round, +about two inches in diameter, and erected on +the same level with each other. Too many +perches are arranged in a ladder formation, +having the rear perch the highest, and the +front perch the lowest. When the birds get +ready to go to roost, there is always an argument +as to which bird will have the rear roost, +as they all want the highest place to roost, or +perch. If the perches are all on the same +level, then there is no preference, and things +are more peaceful at roosting time. We should +plan on allowing about ten inches per bird for +perching room. Plan to have a distance +of about fourteen inches between each perch, +or pole. Arrange these perches at the rear +of the house, running parallel with the rear +wall.</p> + +<p>All modern poultry men have what is known +as a dropping board under the perches, so that<span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</span> +the droppings will not fall in the scratching +litter and soil this part of the scratching area. +These dropping boards are usually placed about +six inches under the perches, and extend as +far forward as the perches do. This makes +the job of cleaning the poultry house quite a +simple operation. It is advisable to sprinkle +some sand over the dropping boards to absorb +the moisture and bad odor.</p> + +<p>We have to give the birds a comfortable, well +secluded place to lay their eggs. This is sometimes +done by placing the nests, or the part +facing the front wall, covered over with a +board, that can be raised by means of a hinge, +when collecting the eggs. The hen can be +made to enter the nest from the rear, and if +conditions are so that the nest is darkened, +then the hen will prefer this place to any +other place in the house. Nests can also be +placed along the front wall, underneath the +windows, or on either side of the house. However, +up to the present time, below the dropping +boards seems to be the most popular place for +the nests with most poultry men.</p> + +<p>Every poultry house should have a dust box. +This is a box partially filled with dust or fine<span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</span> +soil, and placed in the front part of the house, +so that it will be in the sunlight. The birds +appreciate such a device, and will use it generously, +as this aids them in fighting off insects +that prey upon them.</p> + +<p>Suitable containers for food and water should +be provided, and kept clean. The drinking +fountains are of various designs, and one can +buy these very cheaply. They are usually jars +or cans inverted, so that the water will come +out in a small opening at the bottom, just large +enough for the bird to stick its head in. The +food containers, for the dry mash are generally +of the hopper kind, having a box-like container +with a trough at the bottom, so that the food +falls down into the small trough by gravity as +the birds consume it. Thus, in a good sized +hopper, a week’s ration of mash can be put in +the hopper without further attention.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XII">CHAPTER XII.<br> +<span class="fs70">LICE AND MITES</span></h2> +</div> + +<p>While we have interior fixtures of the poultry +house fresh in mind let us turn our attention +briefly to the study of parasites that live on the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</span> +hen, and that are detrimental to her progress. +There are quite a few various insects that depend +upon the hen for their existence, but for +our purposes we can consider them in a general +class of lice and mites, as the treatment for +each class is practically the same.</p> + +<p>Let us first consider the case of lice. These +insects live upon the body of the hen, eating +the flesh, and dead skin as it peels off. They +never leave the hen, and if conditions are favorable, +will lay their eggs on her body, thus multiplying +rapidly if precautions are not taken to +look after this matter. It is always well to +treat a setting hen for lice before she is placed +on the nest, and then once or twice after she +has started her job, because these lice will very +readily transfer from the mother hen to the +young chicks, as soon as hatched, and a great +many chicks die every year from these lice. +It is a splendid idea to grease all baby chicks, +especially those hatched by natural incubation, +with blue ointment, around the head parts, and +wings. The hens can also be greased in a +similar manner over the whole body.</p> + +<p>Here is where the dust box that we discussed +briefly in the previous chapter comes in, as the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</span> +birds, wallowing in the box of dust, smother +the lice, by shaking the dust into the pores of +the bird’s body. A rather recent method of +combating lice on birds is now fast gaining +favor. This is the Sodium Floride treatment. +This is best used only on a mild day, however, +as the birds are quite wet after their treatment +under this method. The treatment is +usually given as follows: Take an ordinary +wash tub, and fill nearly full with not too cold +water. For every gallon of water in the tub, +add one ounce of sodium floride, obtainable at +any drug store. Dip the hen in this solution, +tail first, being sure to have a firm grasp on +her so she will not splash the water over. Dip +her in this manner about three times, so that +the solution comes up in under the feathers. +This method has been found to be very effective. +In extreme cases, where the lice are very +bad, another similar treatment can be given +each bird about a month later. Other good +materials to apply to the bird’s body, besides +those already mentioned, are sweet oil, vaseline, +and lard.</p> + +<p>Now we come to another pest that is a little +harder to get rid of than the body lice. The<span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</span> +mites, which are so bothersome to most poultry, +have the peculiar habit of staying on the birds +only during the night, creeping down at daylight +to some crack or crevice to hide until +darkness again forces the birds to go to roost. +These mites are even more destructive in their +work than are the body lice. They are generally +found in any crack or crevice about the +perches. Here they can obscure themselves, +and be very close to their prey when ready to +begin their work at night. While the lice are +eating insects, the mites are sucking insects, +and suck the blood of the birds during the +night. When the mite is hungry, he is of a +yellowish color. When filled up, however, with +a good meal of blood, he is red. The mite is +very small, and is similar in construction to +a spider.</p> + +<p>If a flock of chickens are believed to be +suffering from mites, and there are very few, +by the way, that are not troubled with these +pests, then it would be advisable first, to whitewash +the poultry house thoroughly, not only +the roosting quarters, but the walls and other +fixtures inside the house. Kerosene is quite +frequently used to spray the nests with, but has<span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</span> +not the lasting power that some of the coal tar +products possess. Recently, wood preservatives +have been used for the purposes of ridding the +poultry house of mites, and very good results +have been obtained from this method.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XIII">CHAPTER XIII.<br> +<span class="fs70">POULTRY DISEASES</span></h2> +</div> + +<p>It is not to be supposed that poultry, living +under the artificial conditions that man has +ordained for them, can be entirely free from +diseases. In fact, very few poultry men can +say that they have not had some kind of disease +affect their flock. Most diseases are contagious, +so it is important to be on the watch for any +symptoms of anything out of the ordinary. +Sanitation plays a very important part in keeping +the flock free from diseases, and clean +methods should always prevail. Do not allow +the house to become filthy and foul smelling. +It is always a good precaution to disinfect the +poultry premises at least once a year with a +good whitewash or some strong disinfectant. +This is about the same as taking out a life +insurance policy for the flock.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</span></p> + +<p>Dampness is probably about the most common +cause for diseases. Disease germs always +multiply more rapidly in damp, dark quarters. +Therefore the advice given in an early chapter +about keeping the poultry house light and well +ventilated, will bear repetition. If one is accustomed +to watching his birds as to their +physical condition, he will be able to notice +the symptoms of any on-coming disease in time +to isolate the bird thus affected, before the +disease has a chance to spread, if it is a contagious +disease. By watching a bird thus +isolated, and also looking very carefully for any +further symptoms in the flock, one can do considerable +in checking the disease. The old +adage, “An ounce of prevention is worth a +pound of cure,” certainly is true in this case.</p> + +<p>Indigestion is a very common ailment with +poultry, especially with those birds that are fed +heavy for egg production. Usually a little +laxative material placed in the drinking water, +and making more of their ration a scratching +ration, in order to induce exercise, is probably +as simple and effective a treatment as can be +given.</p> + +<p>Roup, chicken pox, and canker are also very<span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</span> +common poultry diseases. These three diseases +are all supposed to be due to a small organism +which multiply very rapidly, and acts mostly +on the skin of the bird. These diseases are not +similar in appearance, however, despite the fact +that their source is the same.</p> + +<p>Roup attacks the mucous membrane lining +of the nose, and eye. These parts become red +and inflamed, and infected with a pus formation. +This disease is spread largely through +the drinking water, and is prevalent in the +spring when it is damp. Keep the birds healthy +and vigorous, provide proper ventilation, and +have things as dry as possible, and little should +be feared from this source.</p> + +<p>Chicken pox makes its appearance on the +comb and wattles, and also on the face of the +bird, by small pockets on these parts. The +remedy is the same in this case as has been +stated for roup, except that if only a few birds +have contracted the disease, each bird can be +taken in hand and given individual treatment, +by removing the crust over the sores, and applying +a good disinfectant.</p> + +<p>Canker manifests itself by pale yellow spots +on the inside of the mouth. This is best<span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</span> +treated, as soon as discovered, by scraping off +this light yellow material, and applying a good +disinfectant.</p> + +<p>All of these last three named diseases are +caused by the same conditions, and by avoiding +these conditions very little trouble will be +experienced in this malady. Birds that have +had any of the above mentioned diseases should +never be used for breeding purposes, as their +offspring will have a predisposition to the same +ailment.</p> + +<p>Sometimes the perches are placed too high +in the chicken house, and the birds have to +jump too far to reach the floor. When this +happens, a hard lump often forms on the sole of +the foot. This is sometimes called bumble foot, +and is usually evident in the chicken’s walk. +Nothing but cutting out the hard part, and +washing the sore with a good disinfectant can +remedy this condition.</p> + +<p>While frosted combs could not be called a +contagious disease, we will discuss this matter +briefly, before closing this chapter. In severe +weather, when the temperature is below zero, +and there is considerable dampness in the +poultry house, frozen combs are quite frequent.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</span> +This is especially true of the lighter birds, +which possess larger head parts than do the +heavier breeds. When a bird has its comb or +wattles frozen, it will stop laying for a considerable +period of time, usually a month at +least. If birds are found on a cold winter +morning with frozen combs, they should be +treated with snow or cold water, to take out +the frost, and then treated daily with vaseline +until cured. It is well to provide a pole up +near the roof of the poultry house, upon which +a curtain, made of burlap or some old cloth, +is arranged so that on cold winter nights this +curtain can be lowered directly in front of the +front perch. This will tend to protect the +birds from the excessive cold, by conserving the +heat given off by their bodies during the night.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XIV">CHAPTER XIV.<br> +<span class="fs70">CULL THE FLOCK</span></h2> +</div> + +<p>When the poultry industry was being established +upon a business foundation, many of the +leading breeders devised the idea of measuring +the egg capacity of their birds by actually +counting the eggs laid by their best birds. This<span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</span> +practice is still followed by many poultry +breeders, but is a job that consumes considerable +time, and it can be seen that only those +who are constantly with the flock could be able +to do this. But within the last few years, there +has been developed a system whereby one can +tell by the external appearance of the bird just +about what her ability as an egg producer will +be in one year. A Mr. Hogan was the first +man to notice these characteristics and his +method has been so far perfected that most +poultry keepers are quite familiar with it, and +thereby saved the bother of trap-nesting.</p> + +<p>This culling process, as it is called, is best +accomplished during the months of August and +September. By picking up each female in the +flock at this time, except of course the spring +pullets, one can find out which birds are still +laying, and which ones have already quit. It +has been in the past too much the custom of +farmers to go out into their poultry flock in +the fall of the year, and pick out the birds +that had not yet started to moult, and whose +appearance was ragged and rather uncomely. +These birds would be picked out by the farmer, +or in many cases his wife, and sent to market<span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</span> +as meat birds, and they would keep the birds +who had already moulted, and whose feathers +were in splendid color at that time. However, +in the light of recent facts brought out by this +culling process, we now know that these rather +ragged, unsightly birds were our best layers, +and should have been kept because they had +been working continuously, not taking the +time off to quit laying and look pretty, as had +their more lazy companions. There are still +a great number of people that cling to the old +method, but the light is dawning, and it will +probably be but a short while before practically +everyone interested in poultry will know of +this culling method, and who can in a brief +examination of a bird tell quite readily whether +she should be kept or sold.</p> + +<p>We will now discuss the various methods by +which a bird can be judged as to her egg +laying ability. No one sign can be relied upon, +but the different signs taken together should +form the final judgment. One can usually +tell something about the bird by her general +habits. The good layer is a busy hen. She is +happy, singing, and not as afraid of the attendant +as is the loafer. As this hen usually<span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</span> +eats more than the non-layer, she is usually +found busily scratching in the litter for the +food material with which she makes her eggs. +The good layer is always the first off the +roost in the morning, and the last one to go +to roost at night. Watch out for the timid, +crafty hen that stays on the outskirts of the +flock. She is lazy, inactive, and the quicker +she is sent to the butcher, the better. Another +very good aid in forming judgment as +to the ability of the birds, is to go around +the roosts at night, after the birds have all +gone to roost. Feel of their crops. The good +layer that has been working hard to get together +food material for her eggs will have +a full crop, while her lazy companions, that +are not so interested in producing eggs, will +have a fairly empty crop at this time. Little +items such as I have mentioned here will tell +considerable about the ability of the birds. It +is a fact that there are any number of birds +in America that lay only a few dozen eggs per +year, but are kept the year round, because +the owner has had no way of knowing the +producers from the non-producers.</p> + +<p>As has been already brought out, the heavy<span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</span> +layers molt late. Often they continue laying +up until October and November. If you have +hens nearly naked of feathers in October or +November, just rest assured that these are +your most profitable birds, and that they did +not quit laying to put on a pretty coat of +feathers in the middle of the summer. You +should mark these birds in some manner, so +that you can use them as breeders for the +coming winter, because, if they are mated +with a cockerel, that is the son of a good +layer, your strain will be greatly improved, +because these birds will transmit their laying +ability to their offspring.</p> + +<p>A good laying hen will have a long, broad, +and deep, rectangular body, with top and bottom +lines parallel. This large sized body is +essential to the hen, so that she will have +sufficient room to digest enough food to make +her eggs. A broad back is also necessary for +proper room for the reproductive organs that +make the egg. The head of the good layer +is always of a healthy appearance. The good +layer has a short stubby beak, or bill, and +gracefully curved, as compared to the long +shapeless bill of the loafer. The eyes are<span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</span> +prominent, and stick out similar to a shoe +button, rather than sunken in. The combs +and wattles are red, and not pale, as in the +non-layer.</p> + +<p>The good layer will not have the bright colored +yellow, after she has been laying for a +short while, that the loafer will have. This +is because she uses this yellow pigment in +making the yolk of her eggs, so that as her +laying period proceeds, she becomes more and +more faded in her bill, eye lids, ear lobes, and +shanks. Consequently, if some of your birds +have a faded appearance, don’t condemn them, +they are the hardest workers in your flock. +Furthermore, the hen with worn toe-nails is +one that should be kept, because this shows +us quite clearly that she uses them considerably +in scratching for her feed.</p> + +<p>Now let us examine the anatomy of the hen +a little more closely so that we can get some +more evidence for or against the hen in question. +One of the most common ways, nowadays, +in picking out the laying hen is to examine +what is known as the pelvic bones. +These are found on either side of the vent, +towards the rear of the body. They are generally<span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</span> +called the lay bones by most poultry +men. They both mean the same. Now these +bones tell a vivid story. These bones are +usually measured by the fingers, or as to how +many fingers can be inserted between the two +bones. A poor layer will have a thick, grizzly +covering of meat over the lay, or pelvic +bones, and just about the width of one finger +can be inserted between them. This shows +us quickly that she is not a layer. Then, +lets compare this poor layer to the good layer. +Here we find something different. There is +just a slight covering over the pelvic bones. +The meat is thin and spare. If we feel of +the bones, we find them quite thin and pliable. +We next try to insert as many fingers between +the two bones as possible. We will find +that we can insert at least two fingers, and +probably three, if our fingers are not too wide. +The heavier the hen is laying, the wider the +distance between the bones.</p> + +<p>Now, while we have the bird, let us look a +little further into this bird’s conformation. The +keel bone, or rear end of the breast bone, can +be used as one unit, and the lay bones as +the other unit of measure. See how many<span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</span> +fingers you can get between the lay bones and +the keel bone. Even for a small breed you +should easily get in the width of three fingers, +and for a larger breed you should get in +the width of four fingers. This measures the +hen’s capacity for feed.</p> + +<p>This distance between the lay bones and +the keel bone is called the abdomen. We can +tell considerable about the hen by the texture +of the abdomen skin. If the skin is tough, +and meaty, we can say right away that she +is not a good hen, but if the skin is tender, +pliable, and soft, then we can feel assured +that she must be kept in the flock.</p> + +<p>These are the principal features in selecting +the laying hen. If one can get these principles +in mind, and go out into his flock and +separate the hens into two flocks, and keep +these two flocks apart for a while, he would +discover some interesting things. For instance, +cull out the poor hens and put them in +one pen. Possibly you will have the largest +pen, when you have finished, composed of the +poor layers. Keep the good hens in another +pen separated from the poor ones. Keep feeding +the same feeds as you had been doing<span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</span> +before you separated the flock into two pens. +Now, for a few weeks, compare the daily egg +record of the two flocks. You will find that +there is about as much difference as between +night and day. Now, to bring the lesson home +a little more forceful, just figure out what +it costs you per day to keep these star boarders, +and see if you think culling is a paying +proposition. Most every agricultural college +has a bulletin printed on culling giving essentially +the same information as I have given, +but they usually have quite a few illustrations +that will make the procedure a little more +clearer than I have done.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XV">CHAPTER XV.<br> +<span class="fs70">PRESERVING EGGS FOR WINTER</span></h2> +</div> + +<p>It was deemed advisable to add a few words +in this little booklet in regard to collecting eggs +when they are cheap, and storing them away +for the part of the year when eggs are high +priced. During the months of March, April, +May, and June eggs are the cheapest on the +market, due to the fact that the birds are all +laying during these few months, and consequently,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</span> +the supply far exceeds the average +demand. If we pay fifteen cents for a dozen +of eggs in April, or May, and then in December +we pay sixty cents or more for the same +product, then it can easily be seen that it is a +paying proposition to store some of these +cheap spring eggs for winter use. We will now +take up the method of storing these spring eggs +for our December breakfast.</p> + +<p>To make this process about 100 per cent +efficient, it is best to candle the eggs first, +before storing them away. This process of +candling has been explained in a previous chapter. +If the air cell, at the blunt end of the +egg is small, then we may be sure that the egg +is of recent origin. If the contents look clear, +and the yolk is not loose, inside the shell, then +we need have no fears as to the edibility of the +egg. One very good way, for one not accustomed +to candling, is to examine a few in +front of the light, and then break a few in a +dish, so as to get the proper relation fixed in +mind. If we can secure eggs that are infertile, +we will not have to throw out hardly any +eggs in this process.</p> + +<p>In preparing to preserve our eggs for winter,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</span> +there are several methods used by people who +follow this practice. Some just pack the eggs +in sawdust in a box or barrel, but this method +is not always reliable. There are two standard +ways of preserving these eggs. One is in using +waterglass, and the other is the use of lime +water solution. Both methods are reliable, but +the first named method seems to be the more +popular of the two. In either case, earthen +crocks or wooden pails are the best containers. +Neither of these solutions affects them. A +three gallon container is large enough to preserve +ten dozen eggs. For this sized container, +about six quarts of the solution will be necessary.</p> + +<p>We will discuss the waterglass method first. +Procure the amount of waterglass that you will +need for this year at a drug store. Use this +at the rate of one pint of waterglass to nine +pints of water. Before mixing the two liquids, +boil the water, and let it cool. Then mix the +two liquids, in the proportion stated, and place +in container. Then add the eggs, (about ten +dozen to this mixture), and store in a cool +place. Be sure that there is about two or three<span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</span> +inches of the solution above the eggs, and add +a little water occasionally to replace the water +lost by evaporation.</p> + +<p>The lime solution is mixed a little differently. +Slack about two pounds of quick lime in a +small quantity of hot water. After this has +slacked, add it to about two gallons of water, +and then add one pound of salt. Stir this in +a thorough manner, and then allow the mixture +to settle. There will then be found a sediment +in the bottom of the solution. Pour off the +clear liquid, and use this as the preservative +material. Then keep the same as directions +given for the waterglass preparation. In this +manner, one can have table eggs the year round +at a reasonable price.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XVI">CHAPTER XVI.<br> +<span class="fs70">SELLING THE PRODUCT</span></h2> +</div> + +<p>We have discussed the main points to be +considered in raising various poultry products +in this little booklet. However, much of our +success in the poultry business will depend on +our ability to obtain the top prices for our products +after we have raised them. In fact, this<span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</span> +is the cry all over the country now among the +farming population. The various agricultural +agencies that have heretofore spent considerable +time and effort in teaching the farmer to +raise a large quantity of good products, have +apparently accomplished this result, and now +these same agencies are trying to organize the +farmers into selling their products so that +they can receive a higher price for them.</p> + +<p>The farmer usually has no time to devote to +the special marketing of his crop, as he is too +busy raising farm products, so attempts at co-operative +marketing have been made. There +have been many failures in this method in the +past, but now the farmer realizes that this system +is really his only salvation, and he is receiving +the idea of co-operation in a better mood +than he did in the past. However, for the one +living in town, with but a small flock of birds, +more time can usually be devoted to this end +of the business, with splendid returns. Many +town lot poultry keepers can sell all the eggs +that they can get just around to their neighbors, +who are usually glad to pay a little more +than the market price for the assurance that<span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</span> +the eggs are strictly fresh. However, if one has +a fairly good yield of winter eggs, and is not +content to sell the eggs to his neighbors at +around market price, there are other methods +that can bring much higher returns.</p> + +<p>Some poultry raisers get in touch with local +or neighboring hotels and restaurants, and agree +to let these parties have their entire output of +eggs at a certain margin above market price. +For instance, it is a common method to make +an agreement with such parties to sell them +their eggs at ten cents above market prices. +If the market quotations for fresh eggs were +thirty-two cents for a certain day, the hotel +keeper would pay forty-two cents, if the eggs +were delivered on this day. Usually, the restaurant +or hotel is glad to pay this premium +over the market price, because he takes quite +a chance with store eggs, in that some of them +are often stale, and this is a matter that reflects +against his business. Also, if such an +agreement can be made, the hotel or restaurant +man can advertise the fact that he serves nothing +but fresh eggs, which is good business for +him.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</span></p> + +<p>When one is getting a big yield daily, he can +usually plan to sell his eggs by the case to city +commission men, who will always pay a good +premium over local markets. If one has not +enough eggs to sell a case once or twice weekly +in such a manner, this difficulty is often overcome +by combining with neighbors who are +willing to take the proper care in producing +clean, fresh eggs for market. However, such +neighbors must be in sympathy with what is +expected for fresh eggs, and who have the courage +to refrain from putting in eggs that are +not clean and fresh. If one case is sent in to +these commission men and the quality of the +eggs is not of first class, quite a dockage will +be deducted from the check, and your reputation +will thereby suffer. Never wash eggs that +are soiled, but use them in your own kitchen, +as the washing will remove the natural bloom, +or fine powder that is found on the untouched +egg. One can secure clean eggs by keeping the +bedding in the nests clean.</p> + +<p>There is always a splendid opportunity to sell +hatching eggs in the spring of the year, if one +has had the foresight to get started in purebred<span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</span> +poultry. There is always a large demand +for hatching eggs and most hatcheries can not +fill their orders. For the one engaged in the +poultry business, even on a small scale, this +offers a splendid opportunity, especially when +eggs are selling cheap on the market, as they +do in the spring of the year, to divide the mature +birds up into small pens of about ten females +to one good male bird, and sell these +eggs at anywhere from $1.50 a setting to as +much as you can get. The higher the quality +of the stock, the more money one can demand +for such hatching eggs.</p> + +<p>Then there is another good source of revenue +from selling adult birds for breeding purposes. +If your flock is composed of good individuals, +you should experience little difficulty +in selling your surplus birds from $5 up. +A little well planned advertising is often a +good thing to do, to let people know what you +have got for sale. Often an advertisement in +the local paper, or a rural weekly will bring +in many inquiries in regard to the birds or +eggs that you have to sell.</p> + +<p>Probably a cheaper way of advertising, if you<span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</span> +really have good birds, is to show a pen, consisting +of four females and one male, at some +of the neighboring poultry shows. If you can +succeed in winning a premium, this will be a +splendid factor in your efforts in selling breeding +stock. It is usually permissible to place a +little card on the outside of your pen at the +poultry show, giving your name and address, +and stating that you have breeding stock for +sale, or that you are now taking orders for +hatching eggs in the spring.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XVII">CHAPTER XVII.<br> +<span class="fs70">IN CONCLUSION</span></h2> +</div> + +<p>I have tried to explain in this little booklet +that there is a splendid opportunity for one to +engage in the poultry industry, whether it be +on a large scale, or a small scale. There is considerable +pleasure as well as profit in this +work, for the one that is posted on a few of the +essential principles, as has been laid down in +this short treatise. It will probably be well to +repeat a few facts that should be remembered +first, however, before closing.</p> + +<p>Do not expect to make a great amount of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</span> +money from your poultry the first year. Getting +started right in the poultry business will +cost something, so for the first year, if you +just break even you will do well. Plan to +learn as you go along. Every poultry raiser +should take at least one poultry journal, to +keep posted on the latest facts concerning the +business. These journals always carry a great +amount of advertising matter in regard to +stock for breeding and in regard to poultry +house equipment, etc. Many useful ideas can +be secured from pretty near every issue of a +standard paper.</p> + +<p>Get acquainted with the other poultry people +in your own locality. This is especially true in +regard to those who have the same breed that +you have. If your locality boasts of a poultry +association, become a member of this association. +You can then get much valuable information +in regard to your business.</p> + +<p>Get in touch with your state agricultural +college, and especially with the poultry department. +Write to them and ask them to send you +all the bulletins that they have published on +poultry, and tell them to place you on their<span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</span> +mailing list, so that any future bulletins that +they may publish will be sent you free of +charge. Then the U. S. Dept. of Agriculture +has many excellent bulletins on different +branches of the poultry industry that are worth +sending for. It is located at Washington, D. +C. Another splendid thing, if you can succeed +in interesting others in your community, would +be to send to the Motion Picture Lab., U. S. +Dept. of Agriculture, Wash., D. C., and have +them send you their film on culling, entitled, +“Select the Laying Hen.” It certainly brings +out in a splendid manner, just how to cull your +flock. Most any moving picture house would +be glad to run this reel free of charge. The +only expense of securing this film is the transportation +charges from Washington, D. C., to +your home town.</p> + +<p>With these parting words on the betterment +of your flock, remember that poultry work has +its ups and downs, like any other business. +However, for one willing to inform himself on +the business, a very pleasurable and profitable +experience may be anticipated.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="BIBLIOGRAPHY">BIBLIOGRAPHY</h2> +</div> + + +<p>The books listed below are in cloth binding +and can be secured from Haldeman-Julius Company, +Clothbound Book Department, Girard, +Kansas. The prices quoted include carriage +charges.</p> + +<p>Success With Hens, Robert Joos. Cloth. $1.35 +postpaid.</p> + +<p>My Poultry Day by Day, Alfred Gibson. Cloth. +$3.15 postpaid.</p> + +<p>International Poultryman’s Handbook. Cloth. +Illustrated. $1.10 postpaid.</p> + +<p>Anatomy of the Fowl, Kaupp. Cloth. Illustrated. +$3.65 postpaid.</p> + +<p>Poultry Culture, Hygiene and Sanitation, +Kaupp. Cloth. Illustrated. $3.15 postpaid.</p> + +<p>Mating and Breeding of Poultry, Lamon & +Slocum. Cloth. $2.65 postpaid.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter transnote"> +<h2 class="nobreak bold fs150" id="Transcribers_Notes">Transcriber’s Notes</h2> + +<ul> +<li>pg 8 Changed: content herself to set on a nest of eggs<br> +<span style="padding-left: 2em">to: content herself to sit on a nest of eggs</span></li> + +<li>pg 22 Changed: from the center to the outside, and vica versa<br> +<span style="padding-left: 2em">to: from the center to the outside, and vice versa</span></li> + +<li>pg 24 Changed: There are seval different sizes<br> +<span style="padding-left: 2em">to: There are several different sizes</span></li> + +<li>pg 24 Changed: The manufacturors of the incubator<br> +<span style="padding-left: 2em">to: The manufacturers of the incubator</span></li> + +<li>pg 25 Changed: by springling water on the floor<br> +<span style="padding-left: 2em">to: by sprinkling water on the floor</span></li> + +<li>pg 33 Changed: green fed of any kind can be added<br> +<span style="padding-left: 2em">to: green feed of any kind can be added</span></li> + +<li>pg 55 Changed: It was though that the sunshine<br> +<span style="padding-left: 2em">to: It was thought that the sunshine</span></li> + +<li>pg 69 Changed: and dead skin as it peals off<br> +<span style="padding-left: 2em">to: and dead skin as it peels off</span></li> +</ul> +</div> + + +<div style='text-align:center'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 75419 ***</div> +</body> +</html> + diff --git a/75419-h/images/cover.jpg b/75419-h/images/cover.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3185ac3 --- /dev/null +++ b/75419-h/images/cover.jpg |
