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diff --git a/75926-0.txt b/75926-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..8e85994 --- /dev/null +++ b/75926-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,17181 @@ + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 75926 *** + + +------------------------------------------------------------------------ + + Transcriber’s Note: + +This version of the text cannot represent certain typographical effects. +Italics are delimited with the ‘_’ character as _italic_. + +Footnotes have been moved to follow the paragraphs in which they are +referenced. + +Minor errors, attributable to the printer, have been corrected. Please +see the transcriber’s note at the end of this text for details regarding +the handling of any textual issues encountered during its preparation. + + THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT. + + + + +[Illustration: + + _After Walery._] _Frontispiece._ + H. M. STANLEY. +] + + + THROUGH THE + DARK CONTINENT + + OR + + THE SOURCES OF THE NILE + AROUND THE GREAT LAKES OF EQUATORIAL AFRICA + AND DOWN THE LIVINGSTONE RIVER + TO THE ATLANTIC OCEAN + + BY + + HENRY M. STANLEY + + AUTHOR OF “IN DARKEST AFRICA,” “HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE,” + “MY KALULU,” ETC. + + MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS + + WITH A NEW PREFACE BY THE AUTHOR, WRITTEN FOR THIS EDITION. + + + VOL. I. + + LONDON: GEORGE NEWNES, LIMITED + SOUTHAMPTON STREET, STRAND + + + + + + + + + 1899 + + + + + + + + + _RE-ISSUE + BY ARRANGEMENT WITH MESSRS. SAMPSON LOW, + MARSTON AND COMPANY, LTD._ + + + + + =Dedication.= + + ------- + + THE HEARTY ENCOURAGEMENT AND LIBERAL MEANS WHICH ENABLED ME + TO PERFORM THE MISSION ENTRUSTED TO ME, + OF EXPLORING THE DARK CONTINENT OF AFRICA AND SOLVING MANY INTERESTING + GEOGRAPHICAL PROBLEMS, + AND TO FITTINGLY REWARD THE FAITHFUL SURVIVORS, + INDUCE ME TO MAKE PUBLIC MY DEEP PERSONAL ACKNOWLEDGMENTS, + BY DEDICATING THIS WORK, WHICH RECORDS ITS RESULTS, TO THE + PROMOTERS OF THE ENTERPRISE, + + MR. J. M. LEVY AND Mr. EDWARD L. LAWSON, + + _Proprietors of the ‘Daily Telegraph,’_ + + AND + + MR. JAMES GORDON BENNETT, + + _Proprietor of the ‘New York Herald,’_ + + AND IN CONSEQUENCE OF THE GREAT AND CONSTANT INTEREST MANIFESTED + BY HIM IN THE SUCCESS OF THE UNDERTAKING, I MUST + BE PERMITTED TO ADD THE NAME OF + + MR. EDWIN ARNOLD, C.S.I., AND F.R.G.S. + + WITHOUT THE PATRONAGE, FULL CONFIDENCE, AND CORDIAL SYMPATHY OF + THESE GENTLEMEN I SHOULD HAVE BEEN UNABLE TO ACCOMPLISH + THE TASK NOW HAPPILY COMPLETED. + + H. M. STANLEY. + + + + + ORIGINAL PREFACE. + + +Before these volumes pass irrevocably out of the Author’s hands, I take +this, the last, opportunity of addressing my readers. In the first +place, I have to express my most humble thanks to Divine Providence for +the gracious protection vouchsafed to myself and my surviving followers +during our late perilous labours in Africa. + +In the second place, I have to convey to many friends my thanks for +their welcome services and graceful congratulations, notably to Messrs. +Motta Viega and J. W. Harrison, the gentlemen of Boma who, by their +timely supplies of food, electrified the Expedition into new life; to +the sympathizing society of Loanda, who did their best to spoil us with +flattering kindness; to the kindly community of the Cape of Good Hope, +who so royally entertained the homeward-bound strangers; to the +directorates of the B. I. S. N. and the P. and O. Companies, and +especially to Mr. W. Mackinnon of the former, and Mr. H. Bayley and +Captain Thomas H. Black of the latter, for their generous assistance +both on my setting out and on my returning; to the British Admiralty, +and, personally, to Captain Purvis, senior officer on the West Coast +Station, for placing at my disposal H.M.S. _Industry_, and to Commodore +Sullivan, for continuing the great favour from the Cape to Zanzibar; to +the officers and sailors of H.M.S. _Industry_, for the great patience +and kindness which they showed to the wearied Africans; and to my +friends at Zanzibar, especially to Mr. A. Sparhawk, for their kindly +welcome and cordial help. + +In the next place, to the illustrious individuals and Societies who have +intimated to me their appreciation of the services I have been enabled +to render to Science, I have to convey the very respectful expression of +my sense of the honours thus conferred upon me—to his Majesty King +Humbert of Italy, for the portrait of himself, enriched with the +splendid compliment of his personal approbation of my services,[1] which +with the gold medal received from his royal father, King Victor Emanuel, +will for ever be treasured with pride—to H.R.H. the Prince of Wales, for +the distinguished honour shown me by his personal recognition of my +work—to H.H. the Khedive of Egypt, for the high distinction of the Grand +Commandership of the Order of the Medjidie, with the Star and Collar—to +the Royal Geographical Society of London for its hearty public reception +of me on my return, and for the highly valued diploma of an Honorary +Corresponding Member subsequently received—to the Geographical Societies +and Chambers of Commerce of Paris, Italy, and Marseilles, for the great +honour of the Medals awarded to me[2]—to the Geographical Societies of +Antwerp, Berlin, Bordeaux, Bremen, Hamburg, Lyons, Marseilles, +Montpellier, and Vienna, and to the Society of Arts of London, for the +privilege of Honorary Membership to which I have been admitted—to the +very numerous distinguished gentlemen who have lent the influence of +their authority in the worlds of Science, Letters, and Society to the +public favour so liberally extended to me—to all these do I wish to +convey my keen appreciation of the honours and favours of which I have +been the recipient. And for yet another honour I have to express my +thanks—one which I may be pardoned for regarding as more precious, +perhaps, than even all the rest. The Government of the United States has +crowned my success with its official approval, and the unanimous vote of +thanks passed in both Houses of the Legislature has made me proud for +life of the Expedition and its achievements. + +Alas! that to share this pride and these honours there are left to me +none of those gallant young Englishmen who started from this country to +cross the Dark Continent, and who endeared themselves to me by their +fidelity and affection: alas! that to enjoy the exceeding pleasure of +rest among friends, after months of fighting for dear life among +cannibals and cataracts, there are left so few of those brave Africans +to whom, as the willing hands and the loyal hearts of the Expedition, so +much of its success was due. + +That the rule of my conduct in Africa has not been understood by all, I +know to my bitter cost; but with my conscience at ease, and the simple +record of my daily actions, which I now publish, to speak for me, this +misunderstanding on the part of a few presents itself to me only as one +more harsh experience of life. And those who read my book will know that +I have indeed had “a sharp apprehension and keen intelligence” of many +such experiences. + +With reference to the illustrations, I should mention that I carried a +photographic apparatus with me across the Continent, and so long as my +dry plates held out I never lost an opportunity of obtaining a good +view, and when my plates were used up I found the reflection of the +scenes on the ground glass of my camera an invaluable aid to my +unpractised pencil. + +In conclusion, I have to thank Mr. Phil. Robinson, the author of ‘In my +Indian Garden,’ for assisting me in the revision of my work. My +acknowledgments are also due to Lieut. S. Schofield Sugden, R.N., for +the perseverance and enthusiasm with which he recalculated all my +observations, making even the irksome compilations of maps a pleasant +task. In their drawing and engraving work, Mr. E. Weller and Mr. E. +Stanford, and in the intelligent reproduction of my pictures, Mr. J. D. +Cooper, have earned my thanks, and in no less a degree Messrs. William +Clowes and Sons, for the care and despatch with which these volumes have +been prepared for the public. + + H. M. S. + +LONDON, _Nov. 15, 1879_. + + + + + PREFACE TO THE EDITION OF 1899. + + --- + +‘THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT’ was first published in June, 1878, and now +that, after an interval of twenty years, another fully illustrated +edition is to be issued, it has been thought desirable by the publishers +that I should employ the opportunity of reviewing a few of the amazing +changes that have taken place in the regions described in the book. + +Public speakers, I observe, when they have occasion to refer to the +remarkable progress made of late years in Equatorial Africa, vaguely +date it as having begun some twenty-five or thirty years ago. In +reality, however, the first glimmerings of the dawn only appeared in the +latter part of 1875, which was soon after the publication of my appeal +for missionaries to Uganda. Although the appeal was almost immediately +responded to by the Church Missionary Society, and a sum of £24,000 was +collected, the missionaries did not leave England until April, 1876, and +it was the 30th June, 1877, before two of the band landed in Uganda. + +These two pioneer missionaries, and a third, who had been left behind at +the south end of Lake Victoria, were, with myself, the sole Europeans in +all Equatorial Africa on that date. I happened to be then about two +hundred miles from the west coast, laboriously working my way down the +cataracts of the Congo, to put the finishing touch to my exploration of +the course of that river, while over two thousand miles eastward of me +my two fellow-countrymen were preparing for the great work of converting +Uganda to Christianity. + +But, after all, the arrival of the missionaries, though an important +event, and one that has had large consequences, was but a sign of the +dawn. Scepticism as to any good resulting from the bold missionary +venture was very general in England, and the publications of the C. M. +Society prove that, for some years afterwards, no great hope of success +was entertained, and, as if to add to the public disbelief in the +efficacy of missionary effort among negro pagans, there came, almost +simultaneously with my return from Africa early in the following year, +the sad news that two out of the three missionaries had been massacred. +Thus, at the beginning of that year, 1878, the surviving missionary in +Uganda was the sole white man in all the regions bordering the African +equator. + +The publication of this book in the following June excited unusual, +indeed, I may truly say extraordinary, interest throughout Europe. It +was translated into many languages, and the aggregate sales were +prodigious. In this country, in France, Germany, Belgium, and Italy, it +was discussed from every point of view. It led to much controversy, +personal and general, but the British public did not take kindly to the +suggestions for immediate action in Africa contained in it. England lost +the opportunity of selecting unquestioned her field for enterprise, and +so long was she indifferent to the Continent, and the splendid +possibilities that awaited her, that Equatorial Africa was well-nigh +closed to her altogether. + +It happened that there was one person on the Continent who manifested +much more than an abstract interest in Africa, and had, indeed, +solicited my services for the development of the Dark Continent—within a +few minutes of my return to Europe—but had generously admitted that the +people in whose interest I had made my explorations should have the +first claim on them. This person was King Leopold II., whose wonderful +character and extraordinary ability were then unknown to the world. No +Englishman living, not even the geographical expert, paid such close +attention to my letters in the _Daily Telegraph_, my book and speeches +on African subjects, as did the King, and no man shared my zeal and +hopes for Africa as did His Majesty. I waited from January to November, +1878, to see if on this side of the Channel any serious notice was +likely to be taken of my suggestions; but finding public feeling +impossible to be aroused here, I then crossed the Channel, and accepted +the post of chief agent to the _Comité des Etudes du Haut Congo_, of +which King Leopold was President. + +As an illustration of the general indifference in this country to what +had been written and spoken about Africa during 1878, I quote what took +place between two members of the Royal Geographical Council and myself +on a certain date of June of that year. + +These two gentlemen called at my rooms, and, seeing my original map of +the Congo hanging up, one of them, after a perusal of some of the notes +written along the course, turned to me and asked— + +“How long do you think it will be before a white man revisits Stanley +Falls?” + +“Two or three years, I suppose,” I replied. + +“Two or three years!” he exclaimed. “I expected you were going to say +fifty years.” + +“Fifty years!” I cried. “Why, I will venture to wager that, before +twenty years are over, there will not be a hundred square mile tract +left to be explored in the entire Continent.” + +“Oh, come,” said the other gentleman, “that is too sanguine a view +altogether. I will take your bet—shall we say £10?—and book it.” + +We booked it there and then. The twenty years have lately expired, but +though I cannot claim to have won the wager, it must be admitted that my +hasty prediction has closely approached fact. + +About the same time, Sir Rutherford Alcock, then President of the Royal +Geographical Society, remarked, in his Annual Address, that I had told +him that, with money enough, Africa could not only be explored, but +civilised and converted into orderly states. It did not seem to me that +there was anything surprising in that, but to Sir Rutherford it appeared +worthy of public notice. It is of value here only as an indication of +the general ignorance that then prevailed in all circles as regards +Africa. + +Seven years later, after seeing the establishment of one of the African +states that promised to be civilised some day, I was introduced by a +Canon of Westminster Abbey to a well-known Bishop as one who had “done +good work on the Congo.” + +“Oh, indeed!” said his Lordship, smilingly, “how very interesting; but,” +he added, hesitatingly, “I am really not sure that I know where the +Congo is.” + +As may be imagined, I was a picture of wide-eyed surprise. For every +newspaper in the country had been for months daily publishing something +or other about the Congo Conference, and I thought that surely one of +the princes of the Church must have caught sight of the name; but such +had been the Bishop’s culpable inattention to great events in Africa, +that the name even had not attracted his notice. + +Resuming my proper subject, I became chief agent on the Congo. Every now +and then during the six years that I occupied that position, directing +the advance into the Congo basin, reports of our doings frequently +reached England in one form or another, and still the trend of events +seemed unperceived there, though there was considerable stir in Germany, +France, Portugal, and Belgium. + +Neither, apparently, were the actions of the Germans on the borders of +Cape Colony in 1883-84 of a character to excite alarm, suspicion, or +even intelligent alertness in the British mind. Lord Derby was not in +the least disturbed by the curious inquisitive tone of Bismarck’s +despatches relating to South Africa, and Lord Granville failed to +comprehend the drift of Bismarck’s anxiety about the German settlement +at Angra Pequena, or that the presence of a German warship in South +African waters signified anything. + +When it was too late, however, to prevent the seizure of a large +territory neighbouring Cape Colony, the British rubbed their eyes, and +found that a European Power, which might make itself unpleasant some day +to our South African colonists, had wilfully planted itself in close +proximity to the Boer states, with which we had already more than once +grave misunderstandings. It was then inferred that a similar move, a +little further inland, by either the Boers or Germans, would perpetually +confine British South Africa to within the narrow limits of Cape Colony, +and a suspicious manœuvre of a German ship of war in Eastern South +Africa confirmed the British Government that longer delay would be +disastrous to British interests, and the Warren Expedition, which +secured to us Bechuanaland, and an open way to the Zambesi, was the +result. But before the Berlin Conference of 1884-5 was held, Germany had +become the owner of important possessions at various places in +Occidental Africa, and was projecting other surprises of a similar kind. + +During the sittings of the Conference, which had met to decide the +future of the Congo, the words and acts of the assembled +Plenipotentiaries received due attention from every journal of +importance in the United Kingdom, but they did not appear to impress the +public mind as closely affecting British interests. Yet much was +happening that, had the warning which was sounded occasionally by +experts been taken properly to heart, the significance of the Conference +would have been easily recognised. + +On the Continent, however, the diplomatic discussions had a most +stimulating effect. The people of every state now studied their African +maps with a different purpose from the acquisition of mere geographical +knowledge. Societies, miscalled “commercial, geographical, or +scientific,” sprang into existence like mushrooms throughout France, +Germany, Italy, Belgium, and Sweden, and in a short time numerous +expeditions, disguised by innocent titles, were prepared for Africa. + +Within two days after the signing of the General Act of the Conference, +the German Emperor proclaimed a protectorate in East Africa over +countries whose names were even unknown until the appearance of this +book. Our Foreign Secretary was in such dread of Prince Bismarck that he +not only acquiesced in this bold act, but obsequiously hastened to +instruct our representative at Zanzibar to use his undeniable influence +in promoting German interests, and lessen his zeal for our own. + +To-day, living as we do under a powerful Unionist Government, which has +just triumphed over the Mahdi’s successor, and recovered nearly all that +the Government of that period had lost, these events may appear +incredible, but 1884-85 was a singularly disastrous period for British +prestige. The aged statesman who then presided over England’s affairs +was fast declining in power and ability; but as his influence still +continued supreme, the nation was powerless to avert the blunders and +misfortunes that so repeatedly shocked us. However, not to dwell upon +this painful subject, let me say that when Lord Granville signified to +Prince Bismarck that England would oppose no obstacles to German designs +in Africa, it naturally followed that the Prince would interpret this as +meaning that England would surrender all claims to territory that the +Germans might think desirable, and accordingly the East African +Protectorate expanded in a marvellously brief time from the coast to the +Tanganika, and threatened to absorb the whole of East Africa from +Mozambique to the Gulf of Aden. Though priority of discovery and +exploration may not under all circumstances constitute a full title to +territory, it is certainly aggrieving to find another nation rudely +thrusting itself into the field and forcibly seizing upon it. + +Fortunately, however, a Company had been formed in 1885 to take over a +small concession obtained by Mr. H. H. Johnston at Taveta in East +Africa, and as the Germans encroached upon it, Lord Rosebery, who had +become Foreign Secretary, took the opportunity of making a firm protest +against it, which served to arrest the wholesale absorption that had +been meditated, and gave the necessary time for a fuller development of +the British project. A delimitation of territory was determined upon to +define that which was claimed by Great Britain, Germany, and Zanzibar, +and meanwhile the operations of the British Company were suspended to +avoid a clashing of interests, and through Lord Rosebery’s protest the +Germans likewise agreed to prevent their agents from making any new +acquisitions in the debatable zone. + +In November, 1886, an understanding was arrived at which recognised the +sovereignty of Zanzibar as existing over Zanzibar and Pemba, and the +smaller islands, within a radius of twelve sea miles of them, as also +over those of Lamu and Mafia, and a strip of the mainland ten sea miles +in depth. + +East Africa was delimited into two spheres of influence, divided by the +mouth of the Umbe River, the northern base of Kilimanjaro Mountain, and +thence by a line stretching to the eastern shore of the Victoria Nyanza +at the 1st degree of south latitude. + +On the 25th May, 1887, the Sultan of Zanzibar signed a fifty years’ +concession of all his rights remaining to him, after the lease he had +given to Germany on the 4th December previous, to the British East +African Association. In April of the following year the Association, +having through its agents concluded treaties with the native tribes to a +distance of two hundred miles inland, became the Imperial British East +African Company with the nominal capital of £2,000,000, for the purpose +of administering the Zanzibar Concession, acquiring territory, and to +undertake trading operations. + +Meantime, early in 1887, four months previous to the formation of the +British East African Association, I had started on my fourth expedition +into the Dark Continent, with the object of carrying relief to Emin +Pasha, to whom had been entrusted the government of the Egyptian +provinces near the Equator, by the late General Gordon. Few persons at +the time knew that Emin Pasha was only another name for a Dr. Edouard +Schnitzer, and that he was a German Israelite by birth. The fund for the +relief was contributed to equally by the Egyptian Government and Sir +William Mackinnon’s personal friends. + +The story of the march to Emin’s relief and his arrival at the Zanzibar +coast with my expedition, has been related in detail in ‘Darkest +Africa,’ and there is no necessity to give even a summary of it here. + +During the journey through the Aruwimi Forest and thence to Zanzibar, +we were able to add considerably to our knowledge of the Equatorial +regions. That of the great forest itself, with its pigmies and +cannibals, was no mean addition, but our march eastward led to the +discovery of the snowy range called Ruwenzori, the interesting Semliki +Valley and its river, which by following upward brought us in view of +the Albert Edward Nyanza, and enabled me to identify it as the lake +I had first seen in January, 1876. The topography of the intra-lake +region became also much better known; and a little later the outline of +the Victoria Nyanza received enlargement by the finding of an unknown +south-western bay of important dimensions. + +These discoveries were, however, unimportant compared to the effects +following our return home and the publication of our experiences. The +Brussels Conference of 1890 was preparing to sit, and it was not +difficult to impress the Plenipotentiaries with the immediate +necessities of the Dark Continent, such as railways, prohibition of +importing fire-arms, the suppression of slave-raiding, etc., etc. On the +Congo State authorities our revelations had a still more marked effect. +Preparations were then commenced to deal with the slave-raiders of the +Congo, and the despatch of Vankherkhovin’s Expedition to the Upper +Welle, that of Captain Stairs to Katanga, and for the definite +construction of the railway to Stanley Pool. The spirit of annexation +was once more roused, and there was what might be called a race for the +possession of the undelimited region west of Lake Victoria. The British +East African Company’s troops were pushed into Uganda, and the +expeditions under Mr. Jackson, Captain Lugard, Major Eric Smith, and Mr. +Piggott, performed excellent service in their various explorations. + +One of the most important effects of this renewed _furore_ was the +conclusion in July of a Treaty between Great Britain and Germany, which +nullified the efforts of Emin Pasha and of Dr. Peters to seize upon +Uganda and the lake regions west of it. The German Government agreed to +surrender all the territory it occupied or claimed north of the British +sphere, and the protectorate of Witu and the coast up to Kismayu was +transferred to England. This Treaty not only extended the British +possessions to the Abyssinian frontier, thus excluding any European +competitor for influence on the Upper Nile, but established a British +Protectorate over the Sultanate of Zanzibar. In return for the claims +surrendered by Germany, England ceded Heligoland, and for the sum of +£200,000 Germany received the sovereignty and revenue of the African +coast between the Rovuma and the Umbe Rivers. + +From the following list of African explorers who have crossed Africa +since this book was issued, it will be recognised at a glance how rapid +has been the increase of geographical knowledge:— + + 1. Serpa Pinto From Benguella to Durban 1877-1879. + + 2. Herman von Wissman ” Mossamedes to Quilimane 1881-1882. + + 3. Arnot the Missionary ” Durban to Benguella 1881-1884. + + 4. Capello and Ivens ” Mossamedes to Quilimane 1884-1885. + + 5. Gleerup ” Banana Pt. to Bagamoyo 1883-1886. + + 6. Dr. Lenz ” Banana Pt. to Quilimane 1885-1887. + + 7. Herman von Wissman ” Banana Pt. to Quilimane 1886-1887. + (2nd journey) + + 8. Mons. Trivier ” Loango to Quilimane 1888-1889. + + 9. Stanley’s second journey ” Banana Pt. to Bagamoyo 1887-1889. + + 10. Dr. Johnston ” Benguella to Zambezi Mouth 1891-1892. + + 11. Count von Gotzen ” Pangani to Banana Pt. 1893-1894. + + 12. M. Moray ” Bagamoyo to Banana Pt. 1892-1895. + + 13. E. I. Glave ” Zambezi Mouth to Lower 1893-1895. + Congo + + 14. Mons. Miot ” Zambezi Mouth to Lower 1893-1896. + Congo + + 15. Mons. Versepuy ” Bagamoyo to Kabinda 1895-1896. + + 16. M. Descamps et Chargois ” Zambezi Mouth to Kabinda 1893-1896. + + 17. M. Foa ” Zambezi Mouth to Banana 1896-1898. + + 18. Mr. Lloyd ” Mombasa to Banana 1897-1898. + +While previous to the book, since the beginning of the century, there +had only been three trans-African explorations:— + + 1. Livingstone From St. Paul da Loanda to 1854-1856. + Quilimane + + 2. Lieut. Cameron, R.N. ” Bagamoyo to Benguella 1873-1875. + + 3. Stanley’s first journey ” Bagamoyo to Mouth of the 1874-1877. + Congo + +With regard to the numerous other expeditions which took place since +1878, there is no space for mention, but Joseph Thomson’s travels, _viâ_ +Nyassa, to the Tanganika, and his brilliant journey through Masai Land; +Count Teleki and Von Hohnel’s travels in Eastern Africa, which resulted +in the discovery of Lakes Rudolf and Stephanie; Captain Bottego’s +journey through Somali Land, and Dr. Donaldson Smith’s exploration of +Somali and Galla Lands were of the first importance. It has, however, +required the services of some hundreds of travellers since 1878 to fill +up the sum of our present knowledge of the Continent. + +In 1878 there was not one European-built boat in all Equatorial Africa. +By 1881 there were five, but by December 31st, 1898, there were +seventy-two steamers and one hundred and sixty-four steel boats or +barges, while there is a very large addition to the African flotillas +either on its way, or in process of construction. It may be imagined +how much these vessels have expedited exploration when I say that out +of the seventeen trans-African explorers no less than thirteen of them +were transported with their followers and effects some hundreds of +miles on their way. + +Even as late as 1890 the construction of railways in Equatorial Africa +had not been begun, though years of zealous efforts had been made by +myself and others to induce capitalists to undertake them, knowing as we +did that they were the best instruments that civilisation could employ +for the moral, material, and social elevation of the dark peoples. But +just as it took years upon years of publications and speeches to +dissipate the unreasoning terror of Africa in the European mind, it +required years of preaching and encouraging to induce railway +constructors to try Africa as the theatre of their operations. Soon +after the conclusion of the Emin Expedition the Congo Railway was +commenced, and to-day it is fully employed in traffic, and the 500-franc +shares are worth 1700 francs per share, which may be taken as a proof +that the shareholders’ faith has been munificently rewarded. By the +latest news from East Africa we learn that two hundred and forty miles +of the Mombasa and Nyanza Railway have been laid, and it is predicted +that by May next the locomotive will reach the half-way point to Lake +Victoria. In German East Africa thirty miles of railway have been in +operation for some time, but there are serious railway projects under +consideration, and, it may be, an attempt will shortly be made at +construction on an important scale. Meantime, however, the coloured +troops are being employed in making a road suitable for wheeled traffic +between the port of Dar-es-Salaam and Ujiji, _viâ_ Kilossa and Tabora, +and thus far mules have been used with great success. + +But though there are not yet five hundred miles of railway open for +traffic in Equatorial Africa, considerable extensions are under +construction, or being meditated. The British East Africa Railway will, +of course, be continued as far as Lake Victoria, as Parliament has +provided the necessary money. The Congo State having successfully +completed the railway connecting the lower with the upper river, is +carrying out surveys for other railways on the Upper Congo. The Zambezi +will also in a short time be connected by rail with Lake Nyassa, and we +learn that the Bulawayo Railway is to be extended to the Tanganika Lake. +My predictions in regard to Africa have so singularly approached +realisation thus far that I am tempted on a safer prophecy, which is, +that by 1918, there will be five thousand miles of iron roads where +there are now not five hundred. + +When my letters, calling attention to the spiritual and material needs +of Africa, used to appear in the columns of the _Daily Telegraph_ in +1874-77, there was neither mission, school, church, nor any legitimate +trade started in the regions near the African Equator. But since 1877 +wonderful changes in this respect have taken place. The statistics we +have received from the Uganda Protectorate alone tell a remarkable tale +of progress. According to these there have been 372 churches and +missions established, at which there are 97,575 Christian converts. +About 100 Europeans are living in the Protectorate, and the first +official report (for 1897) announced that trade to the value of £30,000 +had been begun. It will be remembered, perhaps, that it was for long a +debatable question whether we should retain Uganda or abandon it. + +The country of which the first few chapters of this book treat is now +mainly German East Africa. What a change has come over it! No one could +have foreseen or dreamed at the time of my march through it that Germany +could ever have become the controller of its destiny. I dreamed visions +of the future often in the wilds, such as that described in Chapter X., +but I saw no Teuton in my dreams. However, it may be all for the best +that Germany has annexed it, and England owes too much to Germany for +waking her out of her somnolence to begrudge what Bismarck obtained so +boldly. The white population of this colony at the end of last year +numbered 922, of whom 678 are Germans, and the trade amounted in value +to £600,000. It will, no doubt, be a long time before the Arab coast +towns undergo any external change, but within their character and scenes +are altogether altered. German militarism, which as we know is of the +strictest kind, bears no resemblance to Arab supineness and neglect or +to Arab customs. The small boys have taken kindly to the dominant +spirit, and practise the forms in vogue among the military. There are +custom-houses at every port, and permits for travel and sport inland can +only be obtained through the goodwill of the Governor. The drastic +measures of Von Wissman have long ago suppressed the slave-trade, and +the slave-market is now only a memory. + +The coast towns are connected by telegraph with each other, and there +is cable communication, _viâ_ Zanzibar, with Europe. Ujiji, the port +on Lake Tanganika where I met Livingstone in 1871, possesses now quite +a civilised appearance. Its Government buildings are of stone and +two-storied, and a long wide street, shaded by mangoes and other fruit +trees, runs through the centre of the town. German capital, to the +value of £697,000, has been invested in tobacco, coffee, cocoa, tea, +cardamom, and vanilla plantations; and I am glad to learn that the Game +Laws are strict and effective. + +The change in Equatorial Africa is nowhere more conspicuous than in that +part described in Chapters XXI.-XXXIV. It may be imagined from the fact +that a Brussels statistician has collected the titles of 3800 printed +works which have been published since 1878 and refer to this part, and +in his chronological table he records forty-eight separate explorations +of the region. + +The progress of trade in the Congo basin can be best represented by the +following brief table of imports and exports:— + + ──────────┬──────────┬──────────┬──────────┬──────────┬────────── + │ Years. │ Imports. │ Exports. │ Total. │ + ──────────┼──────────┼──────────┼──────────┼──────────┼────────── + │ │ £ │ £ │ £ │ + │ 1893 │ 367,004│ 300,592│ 667,596│ + │ 1894 │ 447,789│ 441,268│ 889,057│ + │ 1895 │ 427,434│ 485,426│ 912,860│ + │ 1896 │ 609,111│ 603,645│ 1,212,756│ + │ 1897 │ 887,258│ 698,284│ 1,585,542│ + ──────────┴──────────┴──────────┴──────────┴──────────┴────────── + +The average value of the annual exports during each of the five +preceding years (1888-92) amounted to only £207,921. + +From the inception of the Congo State in 1879 to the year 1890 the King +of the Belgians personally defrayed all the expenditure; but on July +3rd, 1890, the Belgian Government came to His Majesty’s assistance with +a lump sum of £200,000, and an annual subsidy, to last ten years, of +£80,000 per annum. This amount, with the King’s personal subsidy, was +for some years later the main support of the State; but in 1898 the +revenue from all sources is estimated to amount to £590,608, while the +expenditure is £99,477 in excess. + +This excess of expenditure some unkindly critics in this country +attribute to extravagance, ambition, and what not; but the King +justifies his policy by comparing himself to one who had come to a great +but wholly undeveloped estate, which was bound to remain unproductive +unless a liberal expenditure was incurred for such improvements as would +expose its resources and make all parts of it accessible. Now what the +Congo State was in 1879 can best be seen by Chapters XXIV.-XXIX. To the +ordinary white man it was what may well be termed impenetrable, except +at constant peril of his life. It was ravaged by cannibals, fierce +warlike tribes, and slave-raiders, and destructive influences of every +kind tended to maintain its humanity in an eternal struggle for life and +liberty. There were no roads, or means by which the country could be +explored. Every tribe barred the ingress of the traveller; and its +frontiers on all sides lay exposed to any white stranger who took the +trouble to plant a flag; and finally it was made incumbent on every +Power owning African possessions to make its occupation effective. Such +primary necessities of the State involved large and endless expenses, +and few men other than King Leopold would have so long sustained the +great undertaking from his private purse. From 1879 to 1890 His Majesty +spent about £900,000, and since then the total expenditure of the State +has been nearly £3,000,000. To meet this His Majesty’s subsidies, +amounting to £360,000, the aid from Belgium, £200,000, the Belgian +annual subsidies, £720,000, customs duties and taxes, £1,900,000, make a +total revenue of £3,180,000, and prove a deficit of £720,000. + +As an offset against the deficit, the State possesses nineteen steamers +and forty steel barges of the value of £100,000; Government +establishments, which we may estimate at £500,000; arms, ammunition, +goods, coal, and lumber, at £100,000; investments in the railway, +telegraph, and commercial societies, and plantations, to the value of +about £400,000—the whole of which aggregate £1,100,000. To these, which +may be rightly taken as assets of the State, should be added the +increment of the land which at present in some places sells at £80 the +hectare, for factories and commercial purposes at £4 the hectare, and +for agriculture at 8s. the hectare. If the State were offered for sale +the value of the land made accessible to market by railway and steam +communication would have to be considered. Beyond what has been +specified as the State assets, consideration must be given to the now +assured growth of the revenue. To-day, exclusive of the subsidies, it +amounts to £470,602. When the State reaps the results of its generous +aid to the planters of coffee, tea, cocoa, etc., to the railway, now +completed, and to the commercial companies, who are now not restricted +in their transport of goods and produce, there must necessarily be a +material increase each year in the revenue. From all of which summary it +does not appear to me that the position of the State is financially +unsound; indeed, I am inclined to think it to be otherwise. + +His Majesty’s policy has been to start the State on lines that must end +in prosperity, without regard to personal labour or personal cost, and +by his munificent pecuniary advances to the railway, commercial +societies, planters, timber merchants, and agriculturists, the result +has been that capital to the amount of several millions sterling has +gravitated to the Congo. Personally, he may never recover a penny of the +£900,000 he devoted to the creation of the State, but to that he is +indifferent. Whatever surplus the revenue may furnish will certainly be +devoted to assist new enterprises, new railways, increase of shipping, +telegraph lines—to anything, in short, that promises expansion of the +resources of the State, and enhances the value of the legacy he proposes +to bequeath to the people of whom he is King and loyal servant. + +An honourable friend of mine has lately delivered a lecture before the +Statistical Society with a view to prove that the Congo State was +financially a failure. It would be useless, in this place, to do more +than present the balance sheet of four African territories, and ask him +and those who agree with him to give it a fair consideration. + + ════════════════════════╤═══════════╤═══════════╤════════════╤══════════ + Name of State │ Years. │ Receipts.│Expenditure.│ Deficits. + or Territory. │ │ │ │ + ────────────────────────┼───────────┼───────────┼────────────┼────────── + │ │ £ │ £ │ £ + {│ 1891 │ 182,197│ 182,197│ — + {│ 1892 │ 192,035│ 189,279│ — + {│ 1893 │ 266,580│ 217,627│ — + {│ 1894 │ 310,181│ 295,342│ — + {│ 1895 │ 324,650│ 294,837│ — + Congo State {│ 1896 │ 414,396│ 329,452│ — + {│ 1897 │ 374,770│ 405,675│ 30,905 + {│ 1898 │ 590,602│ 690,079│ 99,477 + _The first year_ } {│(estimated)│} 798,660│ 786,918│ — + _of the railway._ } {│ 1899 │} │ │ + │───────────│───────────│────────────│─────────── + British East Africa │ 1897 │ 32,670│ 134,346│ 101,676 + German East Africa │ 1897 │ 218,495│ 298,260│ 79,765 + German Cameroons │ 1897 │ 58,328│ 69,170│ 10,842 + ════════════════════════╧═══════════╧═══════════╧════════════╧══════════ + +The Uganda Protectorate, having been established but lately, would +naturally present a still more unsatisfactory balance sheet than any of +the four territories above mentioned, but it is not derogatory to either +British or German Africa that their deficits are so large, for the +Congo, during the state of undevelopment, had absolutely no receipts at +all, except King Leopold’s subsidy, to meet the expenditure. There is no +necessity to labour this matter, but I think it is sufficiently proved +that my honourable friend has been mistaken in his views about the +financial condition of the Congo State. + +As a fitting conclusion to this preface, I here append a table which +will exhibit at a glance the advance of Equatorial Africa during the +last twenty years. + + ────────────────────┬────────┬──────┬─────────┬─────────┬─────────┬────────── + │ │ │ │ │ │ + State or Territory. │ White │Miles │ No. of │ No. of │Value of │Revenues, + │ Popul- │ of │Missions,│Christian│ Imports │including + │ ation. │Rail- │ Schools │Converts.│ and │Subsidies. + │ │ way. │ or │ │Exports. │ + │ │ │Churches.│ │ │ + ────────────────────┼────────┼──────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────── + Congo State │ 1,678│ 250│ 67│ 10,000│1,585,542│ 590,602 + Uganda Protectorate │ 100│ ..│ 372│ 97,575│ 28,400│ 142,000 + British E. Africa │ 101│ 237│ 6│ 600│ 218,800│ 102,670 + British Cent. Africa│ 300│ ..│ 55│ 5,000│ 116,264│ 30,000 + French Congo │ 300│ ..│ 25│ 2,500│ 452,282│ 123,622 + German E. Africa │ 922│ 30│ 15│ 2,500│ 638,000│ 218,495 + German Cameroons │ 253│ ..│ 5│ 900│ 465,000│ 58,328 + ────────────────────┼────────┼──────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────── + Totals │ 3,651│ 517│ 545│ 119,075│3,504,288│ 1,265,717 + ────────────────────┴────────┴──────┴─────────┴─────────┴─────────┴────────── + +Remarkable as has been the progress of the above territories hitherto, +my most sincere wish is that there may be still greater acceleration of +it during the next twenty years. + + HENRY M. STANLEY. + +_January 1st, 1899._ + + + + + CONTENTS. + + --- + + EXPLANATION. + + PAGE + + PART I.—My new mission—_The Daily Telegraph_—“_Yes; Bennett_”— + The _Lady Alice_—My European staff—Disappointed applicants and + thoughtful friends—My departure for Africa. PART II.—The + Sources of the Nile—Herodotus on the Nile—Burton on the Nile + basin—Lake Tanganika—Lake Victoria—Speke, Grant, and Cameron— + The Livingstone River—The work before me 1 + + + CHAPTER I. + + + Arrival at Zanzibar Island—Life at Zanzibar—The town of + Zanzibar, its roadstead and buildings—The One Cocoa-nut Tree + and the red cliffs—Selection and purchase of goods for the + journey—Residence of Prince Barghash—Busy mornings—Pleasant + rides and quiet evenings 22 + + + CHAPTER II. + + + Seyyid Barghash—His prohibition of slavery, character, and + reforms—Treaty with British Government by Sir Bartle Frere— + Tramways the need of Africa—Arabs in the interior—Arabs in + Zanzibar—Mtuma or Mgwana?—The Wangwana, their vices and + virtues—A Mgwana’s highest ambition—The Wanyamwezi “the coming + race” 31 + + + CHAPTER III. + + + Organization of the Expedition—The _shauri_—“Poli-poli”—Msenna’s + successful imposture—Black sheep in the flock—The _Lady Alice_ + remodelled—Sewing a British flag—Tarya Topan, the millionaire— + Signing the covenants—“On the word of a white man”—Saying + good-bye—Loading the dhows—Vale!—Towards the Dark Continent 43 + + + CHAPTER IV. + + + Bagamoyo—Taming the dark brother—Bagamoyo in a ferment—An + exciting scene—The disturbance quelled—The Universities + Mission, its origin, history, decline and present condition— + The Rev. Edward Steere—Notre Dame de Bagamoyo—Westward ho!—In + marching order—_Sub Jove fervido_—Crossing the Kingani—The + stolen women 55 + + + CHAPTER V. + + + On the march—Congorido to Rubuti—The hunting-grounds of + Kitangeh—Shooting zebra—“Jack’s” first prize—Interviewed by + lions—Geology of Mpwapwa—Dudoma—“The flood-gates of heaven” + opened—Dismal reflections—The Salina—A conspiracy discovered— + Desertions—The path lost—Starvation and deaths—Trouble + imminent—Grain huts plundered—Situation deplorable—Sickness in + the camp—Edward Pocock taken ill—His death and funeral 70 + + + CHAPTER VI. + + + From Chiwyu to Vinyata—Kaif Halleck murdered—The magic doctor— + Giving away the heart—Deeds of blood—“The white men are only + women”—A three days’ fight—Punishment of the Wanyaturu—The + ubiquitous Mirambo—The plain of the Luwamberri—In a land of + plenty—Through the open country—“I have seen the lake. Sir, + and it is grand!”—Welcomed at Kagehyi 93 + + + CHAPTER VII. + + + A burzah held—Paying off recruits—Kagehyi becomes a great + trading centre—A Central African “toper”—Prince Kaduma—Hopes + of assistance from him relinquished—The boat ready for sea—No + volunteers—Selecting my crew—The start for the + circumnavigation of Lake Victoria 116 + + + CHAPTER VIII. + + + Afloat on the lake—We catch a guide—Saramba’s terror—The + Shimeeyu—Pyramid Point—The island of Ukerewé—In the haunts of + crocodiles—Shizu Island—The hippopotami—Ururi—The headlands of + Goshi—Bridge Islands—Volcanoes—U-go-weh—The inebriates of + Ugamba—Treachery at Maheta—Primitive man—The art of pleasing—A + night at Uvuma—Mobbed by Wavuma—Barmecide fare—Message from + Mtesa—“In the Kabaka’s name”—Camp on Soweh Island 123 + + + CHAPTER IX. + + + An extraordinary monarch—I am examined—African “chaff”—Mtesa, + Emperor of Uganda—Description of Mtesa—A naval review—Arrival + at the Imperial capital—Mtesa’s palace—Fascination of the + country—I meet a white man—Col. Linant de Bellefonds—The + process of conversion—A grand mission field—A pleasant day + with Col. de Bellefonds—Starting for my camp 147 + + + CHAPTER X. + + + Parting with Colonel Linant—Magassa’s vanity and disloyalty—The + sailors’ island—Jumba’s Cove—Uganda—Dumo—The Alexandra Nile— + Lupassi Point—In danger at Mkongo—Alone with Nature—Insect + life—Dreams of a happier future—A dark secret—Murabo and the + fish—Alice Island—A night never to be forgotten—The treachery + of Bumbireh—Saved!—Refuge Island—Wiru—“Go and die in the + Nyanza!”—Back in camp—Sad news 166 + + + CHAPTER XI. + + + Barker’s illness and death—Other deaths—Traitors in the camp— + Rest!—Sickness—Rwoma blocks our passage by land—Magassa fails + us by water—A serious dilemma—Lukongeh comes to the rescue— + History of Ukerewé—Educated amphibians—Leaving Kagehyi with + half the Expedition—The foundering canoes—All saved—Ito + conciliates us—Arrival at Refuge Island with half the + Expedition—I return for the rest—A murderous outbreak in camp— + Final departure from Kagehyi—All encamped on Refuge Island—We + ally ourselves with Komeh—A dance of kings—Mahyiga Island (in + the Bumbireh group)—Interviewed by Iroba canoes—Our friendship + scorned—The king of Bumbireh a hostage—The massacre of the + Kytawa chief and his crew—The punishment of the murderers—Its + salutary effect upon their neighbours—We arrive in Uganda 190 + + + CHAPTER XII. + + + We find Mtesa at war—“Jack’s Mount”—Meeting with Mtesa—The + Waganda army in camp and on the march—The imperial harem—In + sight of the enemy—The Waganda fleet—Preliminary skirmishing— + The causeway—The massacre of Mtesa’s peace party—“What do you + know of angels?”—Mtesa’s education proceeds in the intervals + of war—Translating the Bible—Jesus or Mohammed?—Mtesa’s + decision—The royal proselyte 233 + + + CHAPTER XIII. + + + The war-drum beaten—The wizards play their part—In full + war-paint—Bullets against spears—The Wavuma baulked—Mtesa’s + fury—Victory or the stake!—Hard fighting—The captive chief: + a struggle between the pagan and the Christian—A floating + mystery—“Return, O spirit! the war is ended!”—The camp on + fire: a race for life 256 + + + CHAPTER XIV. + + + The legend of the Blameless Priest—The heroes of Uganda: Chwa; + Kimera, the giant; Nakivingi; Kibaga, the flying warrior; + Ma’anda; Wakinguru, the champion; Kamanya, the conqueror of + the Wakedi; Suna, the cruel; his massacre of the Wasoga; + Namujurilwa, the Achilles of Uganda; Setuba and his lions; + Kasindula the hero, peasant, and premier—Mtesa the mild-eyed 270 + + + CHAPTER XV. + + + Life and manners in Uganda—The Peasant—The Chief—The Emperor—The + Land 299 + + + CHAPTER XVI. + + + TO MUTA NZIGÉ AND BACK TO UGANDA. + + + The ladies of Mtesa’s family—Sambuzi ordered to take me to Muta + Nzigé—My last evening with Mtesa—_En route_ for Muta Nzigé— + Sambuzi suffers from the “big head”—We come to an + understanding—The white people of Gambaragara—War music—Through + a deserted country—Sinister auguries—A cowards’ council of + war—Panic in the camp—Sambuzi announces his intention of + deserting me—The flight when none pursued—The “Spoiler” eaten + up—Mtesa tries to persuade me to return—At Kafurro 326 + + + CHAPTER XVII. + + + Kafurro and its magnates—Lake Windermere—Rumanika, the gentle + king of Karagwé—His country—The Ingezi—Among the mosquitoes— + Ihema Island—The triple cones of Ufumbiro—Double-horned + rhinoceros—The hot springs of Mtagata—The Geographical Society + of Karagwé—The philosophy of noses—Rumanika’s thesauron—Some + new facts about the rhinoceros and elephant—Uhimba—Paganus, + var. esuriens—Retrospect 356 + + + CHAPTER XVIII. + + + The twin rivers—Mankorongo baulked of his loot—Poor Bull! + True to the death—Msenna breaks out again—The Terror of + Africa appears on the scene—Mars at peace—“Dig potatoes, + potatoes, potatoes”—Mirambo, the bandit chief, and I make + blood-brotherhood—Little kings with “big heads”—Practical + conversion of the chief of Ubagwé—The Watuta, the Ishmaelites + of Africa—Their history—African nomenclature—From Msené across + the Malagarazi to Ujiji—Sad memories 379 + + + LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. + + --- + + + FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS. + + NO. PAGE + + 1. H. M. STANLEY. (_After Walery_) _Frontispiece_ + + 2. VIEW FROM THE ROOF OF MR. AUGUSTUS _To face page_ 32 + SPARHAWK’S HOUSE. (_From a photograph_) + + 3. BURYING OUR DEAD IN HOSTILE TURU: VIEW OF ” 92 + OUR CAMP + + 4. RECEPTION BY KING MTESA’S BODY-GUARD AT ” 148 + USAVARA + + 5. MTESA, THE EMPEROR OF UGANDA. (_From a ” 152 + photograph_) + + 6. RECEPTION AT BUMBIREH ISLAND, VICTORIA ” 174 + NYANZA + + 7. THE STRANGE GRANITE ROCKS OF WEZI ISLAND, ” 194 + MIDWAY BETWEEN USUKUMA AND UKEREWÉ. (_From + a photograph_) + + 8. VIEW OF THE BAY LEADING TO RUGEDZI CHANNEL ” 202 + FROM KIGOMA, NEAR KISORYA, SOUTH SIDE OF + UKEREWÉ, COAST OF SPEKE GULF. (_From a + photograph_) + + 9. VIEW OF RIPON FALLS FROM THE UGANDA SIDE. ” 234 + (_From a photograph_) + + 10. THE OUTFALL OF THE VICTORIA NYANZA; RIPON ” 236 + FALLS, WHICH GIVE BIRTH TO THE VICTORIA + NILE. CAMP OF REAR GUARD ON HILL. (_From a + photograph_) + + 11. THE VICTORIA NILE, NORTH OF RIPON FALLS, ” 240 + RUSHING TOWARDS UNYORO, FROM THE USOGA + SIDE OF THE FALLS. (_From a photograph_) + + 12. ONE OF THE GREAT NAVAL BATTLES BETWEEN THE ” 260 + WAGANDA AND THE WAVUMA, IN THE CHANNEL + BETWEEN INGIRA ISLAND AND CAPE NAKARANGA + + 13. THE NAPOLEON CHANNEL, LAKE VICTORIA, FROM ” 268 + THE HEIGHTS ABOVE THE RIPON FALLS. + FLOTILLA OF THE EMPEROR OF UGANDA CROSSING + FROM USOGA TO UGANDA. (_From a photograph + by the Author_) + + 14. RUBAGA, THE NEW CAPITAL OF THE EMPEROR MTESA ” 308 + + 15. MTESA’S AMAZONS. (_From a photograph by the ” 314 + Author_) + + 16. MARCHING THROUGH UNYORO: MOUNT GORDON-BENNETT ” 336 + IN THE DISTANCE + + --------------------- + + SMALLER ILLUSTRATIONS. + + 17. THE ‘LADY ALICE’ IN SECTIONS 4 + + 18. VIEW OF A PORTION OF THE SEA-FRONT OF ZANZIBAR FROM THE 22 + WATER BATTERY TO SHANGANI POINT. (_From a photograph_) + + 19. RED CLIFFS BEHIND UNIVERSITIES MISSION 28 + + 20. A HOUSE AT ZANZIBAR 31 + + 21. SEYYID BARGHASH 32 + + 22. COXSWAIN ULEDI, AND MANWA SERA, CHIEF CAPTAIN. (_From a 39 + photograph_) + + 23. NEW CHURCH ON SITE OF OLD SLAVE MARKET, ZANZIBAR 42 + + 24. TARYA TOPAN 50 + + 25. “TOWARDS THE DARK CONTINENT” 54 + + 26. UNIVERSITIES MISSION AT KANGANI, ZANZIBAR. (_From a 61 + photograph_) + + 27. WIFE OF MANWA SERA. (_From a photograph_) 65 + + 28. THE EXPEDITION AT ROSAKO. (_From a photograph_) 70 + + 29. VIEW FROM THE VILLAGE OF MAMBOYA 73 + + 30. OUR CAMP AT MPWAPWA. (_From a photograph_) 76 + + 31. “IN MEMORIAM.” EDWARD POCOCK, DIED JANUARY 17, 1875 92 + + 32. MNYAMWEZI PAGAZI 111 + + 33. VIEW OF KAGEHYI FROM THE EDGE OF THE LAKE. (_From a 113 + photograph_) + + 34. FRANK POCOCK. (_From a photograph_) 114 + + 35. BRIDGE ISLAND 131 + + 36. CAIRN ERECTED TO THE MEMORY OF FREDERICK BARKER: MAJITA 189 + AND URURI MOUNTAINS IN THE DISTANCE, ACROSS SPEKE GULF. + (_From a photograph_) + + 37. AT THE LANDING-PLACE OF MSOSSI; VIEW OF KITARI HILL TO THE 197 + LEFT; MAJITA MOUNTAIN TO THE RIGHT. (_From a + photograph_) + + 38. NATIVES, UTENSILS, &C. OF UKEREWÉ 199 + + 39. SKETCH MAP: CAPE NAKARANGA 244 + + 40. THE FLOATING FORTLET MOVING TOWARDS INGIRA ISLAND 265 + + 41. FISH FOUND IN LAKE VICTORIA 269 + + 42. HUTS OF EAST CENTRAL AFRICA 303 + + 43. AUDIENCE HALL OF THE PALACE 309 + + 44. MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS 323 + + 45. NGOGO FISH 325 + + 46. IMPLEMENTS AND WEAPONS OF CENTRAL AFRICA 327 + + 47. MOUNT EDWIN ARNOLD 339 + + 48. HOUSE AND WOODEN UTENSILS OF UZIMBA AND ANKORI 343 + + 49. CANOES AND PADDLES OF AFRICA 354 + + 50. RUMANIKA’S TREASURE-HOUSE 360 + + 51. A NATIVE OF UHHA 363 + + 52. VIEW OF UFUMBIRO MOUNTAINS FROM MOUNT NEAR MTAGATA HOT 365 + SPRINGS + + 53. GROUND PLAN OF KING’S HOUSE 372 + + 54. TREASURE-HOUSE, ARMS, AND TREASURES OF RUMANIKA 373 + + 55. “BULL.” (_From a photograph_) 381 + + 56. SEROMBO HUTS 383 + + 57. A “RUGA-RUGA,” ONE OF MIRAMBO’S PATRIOTS 385 + + 58. ONE OF THE WATUTA 393 + + --------------------- + + MAPS. + + EQUATORIAL AFRICA (SEGUNDO O MAPPA DE DAPPER), _To face page_ 10 + 1676 + + MAPPA DE KRAPE, REBMANN, LIVINGSTONE & ERHARDT, ” 12 + 1849-56 + + LIVINGSTONE, BURTON AND SPEKE, SPEKE & GRANT AND ” 14 + VON DER DECKEN, 1856-1863 + + SCHWEINFURTH, BAKER, LIVINGSTONE, STANLEY & ” 18 + CAMERON, 1866-75 + + STANLEY, 1874-77 ” 20 + + A MAP OF THE ROUTE OF STANLEY “THROUGH THE DARK ” 49 + CONTINENT,” 1874-1877, AS WELL AS OF THE EMIN + PASHA RELIEF EXPEDITION THROUGH AFRICA + + SKETCH MAP; CAPE NAKARANGA ” 244 + + + + + THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT. + + --- + + EXPLANATION. + PART I. + +My new mission—The _Daily Telegraph_—“_Yes; Bennett_”—The _Lady Alice_— + My European staff—Disappointed applicants and thoughtful friends—My + departure for Africa. PART II. The sources of the Nile—Herodotus on + the Nile—Burton on the Nile basin—Lake Tanganika—Lake Victoria—Speke, + Grant, and Cameron—The Livingstone River—The work before me. + + +While returning to England in April 1874 from the Ashantee War, the news +reached me that Livingstone was dead—that his body was on its way to +England! + +Livingstone had then fallen! He was dead! He had died by the shores of +Lake Bemba, on the threshold of the dark region he had wished to +explore! The work he had promised me to perform was only begun when +death overtook him! + +The effect which this news had upon me, after the first shock had passed +away, was to fire me with a resolution to complete his work, to be, if +God willed it, the next martyr to geographical science, or, if my life +was to be spared, to clear up not only the secrets of the Great River +throughout its course, but also all that remained still problematic and +incomplete of the discoveries of Burton and Speke, and Speke and Grant. + +The solemn day of the burial of the body of my great friend arrived. I +was one of the pall-bearers in Westminster Abbey, and when I had seen +the coffin lowered into the grave, and had heard the first handful of +earth thrown over it, I walked away sorrowing over the fate of David +Livingstone. + +I laboured night and day over my book, ‘Coomassie and Magdala,’ for I +was in a fever to begin that to which I now had vowed to devote myself. +Within three weeks the literary work was over, and I was free. + +Soon after this I was passing by an old book-shop, and observed a volume +bearing the singular title of ‘How to Observe.’ Upon opening it, I +perceived it contained tolerably clear instructions of ‘How and what to +observe.’ It was very interesting, and it whetted my desire to know +more; it led me to purchase quite an extensive library of books upon +Africa, its geography, geology, botany, and ethnology. I thus became +possessed of over one hundred and thirty books upon Africa, which I +studied with the zeal of one who had a living interest in the subject, +and with the understanding of one who had been already four times on the +continent. I knew what had been accomplished by African Explorers, and I +knew how much of the dark interior was still unknown to the world. Until +late hours I sat up, inventing and planning, sketching out routes, +laying out lengthy lines of possible exploration, noting many +suggestions which the continued study of my project created. I also drew +up lists of instruments and other paraphernalia that would be required +to map, lay out, and describe the new regions to be traversed. + +I had strolled over one day to the office of the _Daily Telegraph_, full +of the subject. While I was discussing journalistic enterprise in +general with one of the staff, the Editor entered. We spoke of +Livingstone and the unfinished task remaining behind him. In reply to an +eager remark which I made, he asked:— + +“Could you, and would you, complete the work? And what is there to do?” + +I answered: + +“The outlet of Lake Tanganika is undiscovered. We know nothing scarcely— +except what Speke has sketched out—of Lake Victoria; we do not even know +whether it consists of one or many lakes, and therefore the sources of +the Nile are still unknown. Moreover, the western half of the African +continent is still a white blank.” + +“Do you think you can settle all this, if we commission you?” + +“While I live, there will be something done. If I survive the time +required to perform all the work, all shall be done.” + +The matter was for the moment suspended, because Mr. James Gordon +Bennett, of the _New York Herald_, had prior claims on my services. + +A telegram was despatched to New York to him: “Would he join the _Daily +Telegraph_ in sending Stanley out to Africa, to complete the discoveries +of Speke, Burton, and Livingstone?” and, within twenty-four hours, my +“new mission” to Africa was determined on as a joint expedition, by the +laconic answer which the cable flashed under the Atlantic: “Yes; +Bennett.” + +A few days before I departed for Africa, the _Daily Telegraph_ announced +in a leading article that its proprietors had united with Mr. James +Gordon Bennett in organizing an expedition of African discovery, under +the command of Mr. Henry M. Stanley. “The purpose of the enterprise,” it +said, “is to complete the work left unfinished by the lamented death of +Dr. Livingstone; to solve, if possible, the remaining problems of the +geography of Central Africa; and to investigate and report upon the +haunts of the slave-traders.” * * * * “He will represent the two nations +whose common interest in the regeneration of Africa was so well +illustrated when the lost English explorer was rediscovered by the +energetic American correspondent. In that memorable journey, Mr. Stanley +displayed the best qualities of an African traveller; and with no +inconsiderable resources at his disposal to reinforce his own complete +acquaintance with the conditions of African travel, it may be hoped that +very important results will accrue from this undertaking to the +advantage of science, humanity, and civilisation.” + +Two weeks were allowed me for purchasing boats—a yawl, a gig, and a +barge—for giving orders for pontoons, and purchasing equipment, guns, +ammunition, rope, saddles, medical stores, and provisions; for making +investments in gifts for native chiefs; for obtaining scientific +instruments, stationery, &c., &c. The barge was an invention of my own. + +It was to be 40 feet long, 6 feet beam, and 30 inches deep, of Spanish +cedar ⅜ inch thick. When finished, it was to be separated into five +sections, each of which should be 8 feet long. If the sections should be +over-weight, they were to be again divided into halves for greater +facility of carriage. The construction of this novel boat was undertaken +by Mr. James Messenger, boat-builder, of Teddington, near London. The +pontoons were made by Cording, but though the workmanship was beautiful, +they were not a success, because the superior efficiency of the boat for +all purposes rendered them unnecessary. However, they were not wasted. +Necessity compelled us, while in Africa, to employ them for far +different purposes from those for which they had originally been +designed. + +There lived a clerk at the Langham Hotel, of the name of Frederick +Barker, who, smitten with a desire to go to Africa, was not to be +dissuaded by reports of its unhealthy climate, its dangerous fevers, or +the uncompromising views of exploring life given to him. “He would go, +he was determined to go,” he said. To meet the earnest entreaties of +this young man, I requested him to wait until I should return from the +United States. + +[Illustration: THE ‘LADY ALICE’ IN SECTIONS.] + +Mr. Edwin Arnold, of the _Daily Telegraph_, also suggested that I should +be accompanied by one or more young English boatmen of good character, +on the ground that their river knowledge would be extremely useful to +me. He mentioned his wish to a most worthy fisherman, named Henry +Pocock, of Lower Upnor, Kent, who had kept his yacht for him, and who +had fine stalwart sons, who bore the reputation of being honest and +trustworthy. Two of these young men volunteered at once. Both Mr. Arnold +and myself warned the Pocock family repeatedly that Africa had a cruel +character, that the sudden change from the daily comforts of English +life to the rigorous one of an explorer would try the most perfect +constitution; would most likely be fatal to the uninitiated and +unacclimatized. But I permitted myself to be overborne by the eager +courage and devotion of these adventurous lads, and Francis John Pocock +and Edward Pocock, two very likely-looking young men, were accordingly +engaged as my assistants. + +I crossed over to America, the guest of Mr. Ismay, of the ‘White Star’ +line, to bid farewell to my friends, and after a five days’ stay +returned in a steamer belonging to the same Company. + +Meantime, soon after the announcement of the “New Mission,” applications +by the score poured into the offices of the _Daily Telegraph_ and _New +York Herald_ for employment. Before I sailed from England, over 1200 +letters were received from “generals,” “colonels,” “captains,” +“lieutenants,” “midshipmen,” “engineers,” “commissioners of hotels,” +mechanics, waiters, cooks, servants, somebodies and nobodies, spiritual +mediums and magnetizers, &c. &c. They all knew Africa, were perfectly +acclimatized, were quite sure they would please me, would do important +services, save me from any number of troubles by their ingenuity and +resources, take me up in balloons or by flying carriages, make us all +invisible by their magic arts, or by the “science of magnetism” would +cause all savages to fall asleep while we might pass anywhere without +trouble. Indeed I feel sure that, had enough money been at my disposal +at that time, I might have led 5000 Englishmen, 5000 Americans, 2000 +Frenchmen, 2000 Germans, 500 Italians, 250 Swiss, 200 Belgians, 50 +Spaniards and 5 Greeks, or 15,005 Europeans, to Africa. But the time had +not arrived to depopulate Europe, and colonize Africa on such a scale, +and I was compelled to respectfully decline accepting the valuable +services of the applicants, and to content myself with Francis John and +Edward Pocock, and Frederick Barker—whose entreaties had been seconded +by his mother, on my return from America. + +I was agreeably surprised also, before departure, at the great number of +friends I possessed in England, who testified their friendship +substantially by presenting me with useful “tokens of their regard” in +the shape of canteens, watches, water-bottles, pipes, pistols, knives, +pocket companions, manifold writers, cigars, packages of medicine, +Bibles, prayer-books, English tracts for the dissemination of religious +knowledge among the black pagans, poems, tiny silk banners, gold rings, +&c. &c. A lady for whom I have a reverent respect presented me also with +a magnificent prize mastiff named ‘Castor,’ an English officer presented +me with another, and at the Dogs’ Home at Battersea I purchased a +retriever, a bull-dog, and a bull-terrier, called respectively by the +Pococks, ‘Nero,’ ‘Bull,’ and ‘Jack.’ + +There were two little farewell dinners only which I accepted before my +departure from England. One was at the house of the Editor of the _Daily +Telegraph_, where I met Captain Fred. Burnaby and a few other kind +friends. Captain Burnaby half promised to meet me at the sources of the +Nile. The other was a dinner given by the representative of the _New +York Herald_, at which were present Mr. George Augustus Sala, Mr. W. G. +Stillman, Mr. George W. Smalley, and three or four other journalists of +note. It was a kindly quiet good-bye, and that was my last of London. + +On the 15th of August, 1874, having shipped the Europeans, boats, and +dogs, and general property of the expedition—which, through the kindness +of Mr. Henry Bayley, of the Peninsular and Oriental Company, and Mr. +William Mackinnon, of the British India Steam Navigation Company, were +to be taken to Zanzibar at half-fares—I left England for the east coast +of Africa to begin my explorations. + + + EXPLANATION. + PART II. + + THE SOURCES OF THE NILE. + + “Yet still no views have urged my ardour more + Than Nile’s remotest fountains to explore; + Then say what source the famous stream supplies, + And bids it at revolving periods rise; + Show me the head from whence since time begun + The long succession of his waves have run; + This let me know, and all my toils shall cease, + The sword be sheathed, and earth be blessed with peace.” + _Pharsalia_ (_Cæsar loq._). + + +In the fifth century, before the Christian era began, Herodotus, the +first great African traveller, wrote about the Nile and its sources as +follows:— + +“Respecting the nature of this river, the Nile, I was unable to gain any +information, either from the priests or any one else. I was very +desirous, however, of learning from them why the Nile, beginning at the +summer solstice, fills and overflows for a hundred days; and when it has +nearly completed this number of days, falls short in its stream, and +retires; so that it continues low all the winter, until the return of +the summer solstice. Of these particulars I could get no information +from the Egyptians, though I inquired whether this river has any +peculiar quality that makes it differ in nature from other rivers. Being +anxious, then, of knowing what was said about this matter, I made +inquiries, and also how it comes to pass that this is the only one of +all rivers that does not send forth breezes from its surface. +Nevertheless, some of the Greeks, wishing to be distinguished for their +wisdom, have attempted to account for these inundations in three +different ways; two of these ways are scarcely worth mentioning, except +that I wish to show what they are. One of them says that the Etesian +winds are the cause of the swelling of the river, by preventing the Nile +from discharging itself into the sea. But frequently the Etesian winds +have not blown, yet the Nile produces the same effects; besides, if the +Etesian winds were the cause, all other rivers that flow opposite to the +same winds must of necessity be equally affected and in the same manner +as the Nile; and even so much the more, as they are less and have weaker +currents; yet there are many rivers in Syria, and many in Libya, which +are not all affected as the Nile is. The second opinion shows still more +ignorance than the former, but, if I may so say, is more marvellous. It +says that the Nile, flowing from the ocean, produces this effect; and +that the ocean flows all round the earth. The third way of resolving +this difficulty is by far the most specious, but most untrue. For by +saying that the Nile flows from melted snow, it says nothing, for this +river flows from Libya through the middle of Ethiopia and discharges +itself in Egypt; how therefore, since it runs from a very hot to a +colder region, can it flow from snow? Many reasons will readily occur to +men of good understanding, to show the improbability of its flowing from +snow. The first and chief proof is derived from the winds, which blow +hot from those regions; the second is, that the country, destitute of +rain, is always free from ice; but after snow has fallen, it must of +necessity rain within five days; so that if snow fell, it would also +rain in these regions. In the third place, the inhabitants become black +from the excessive heat: kites and swallows continue there all the year; +and the cranes, to avoid the cold of Scythia, migrate to these parts as +winter quarters: if then ever so little snow fell in this country +through which the Nile flows, and from which it derives its source, none +of these things would happen, as necessity proves. But the person who +speaks about the ocean, since he has referred his account to some +obscure fable, produces no conviction at all, for I do not know any +river called the Ocean, but suppose that Homer, or some other ancient +poet, having invented the name, introduced it into poetry.” + +Captain Burton the learned traveller has some excellent paragraphs in +his ‘Nile Basin,’ and remarks on this topic in connection with Ptolemy:— + +“That early geographer places his lake Nilus a little to the south of +the Equator (about ten degrees), and 5° E. long. from Alexandria—that +is, in 34° or 35° E. long. by our mode of reckoning. He was led into an +error in placing these portions of the interior, bearing, as he +conceived, from certain points in the east. Thus he places Cape Aromatum +(Cape Asser or Cape Guardafui) in 6° N. lat., which we know to be in 11° +48′ 50″, being thus, say, 6° out of its true place. He places the lake, +the source of the western branch of the river, 1° more to the north and +8° more to the west than the one for the eastern branch; subsequent +inquiries may show us that these great features of Africa may yet turn +out to be substantially correct. + +“We cannot here enter into any disquisition regarding the discrepancies +that appear amongst the very ancient authors regarding these parts of +Africa. We notice only those that are consistent and most valuable, and +as bearing upon the priority of discovery and geographical knowledge. +The earliest period we hear of Ethiopia is in the capture of the capital +thereof by Moses 1400 years before our era, and 90 or 100 years before +the departure of the Israelites from Egypt. Josephus calls it Saba, and +states that it was very strong, situated on the River Astosabos, and +that the name was changed to Meroë, by Cambyses, in honour of his sister +Meroë. There were known to ancient writers three great tributaries to +the Nile in Ethiopia, namely, the Astaboras (Tatazze), the Astosabos +(Blue River), and the Astapus (White River). Herodotus says the source +of the Nile, Astosabos, was twenty days’ journey to the south of Meroë, +which will bring it to Lake Dembea or Tzana. According to Ptolemy, the +position of Meroë was in 16° 25′ N. lat., but the ancient astronomer +Hipparchus has placed it in 16° 51′, which may be taken as the most +correct. Caillaud found the vast ruins in 16° 56′. Under Psammeticus, +the first Egyptian king that reigned after the final expulsion of the +Ethiopian kings from Egypt, 240,000 emigrants from Egypt settled in an +island south of the island of Meroë, that is beyond Khartoum, between +the Blue and the White Rivers, and at eight days’ journey east of the +Nubæ, or Nubatæ. Subsequently the Roman arms extended to those parts. +Petronius, the Roman general under Augustus, thirty years before our +era, took and destroyed Napata, the ancient capital of Tirhaka, situated +on the great northern bend of the Nile at Mount Barkhall, where vast +ruins are still found. Meroë certainly, the capital of Queen Candace, +mentioned in the New Testament (Acts viii. 27), also fell under the +Roman yoke. Nero, early in his reign, sent a remarkable exploring party, +under two centurions, with military force, to explore the source of the +Nile and the countries to the west of the Astapus or White River, at +that early day considered to be the true Nile. Assisted by an Ethiopian +sovereign (Candace, no doubt), they went through the district now known +as Upper Nubia, to a distance of 890 Roman miles from Meroë. In the last +part of their journey they came to immense marshes, the end of which no +one seemed to know, amongst which the channels were so narrow that the +light boat or canoe in use was barely sufficient to carry one man across +them. Still they continued their course south till they saw the river +tumbling down or issuing out between the rocks, when they turned back, +carrying with them a map of the regions through which they had passed: +for Nero’s guidance and information. This, it may be remarked, is +exactly the case still. The Dutch ladies told us last year that they +found the channels amongst these marshes so thick that the lightest +canoe, made of bulrushes, scarcely fit to carry one man, could not find +room to pass on them or across them. After this Pliny, Strabo, and other +Roman authors took notice of this position of Africa, but without giving +us anything important or new.” + + ---------------------------------------------------------------- + + EQUATORIAL AFRICA (SEGUNDO O MAPPA DE DAPPER) 1676. + +[Illustration: _London, Sampson Low, Marston & Company, Limited._ E. +Weller, _Litho._] + + ---------------------------------------------------------------- + +I quote from Captain Burton once more certain passages. “Edrisi, who was +born in Nubia, but who wrote in Egypt about A.D. 1400, says, in that +part of Ethiopia south and south-west of Nubia is first seen the +separation of the two Niles. The one flows from south to north into +Egypt, and the other part of the Nile flows from east to west; and upon +that branch of the Nile lie all, or at least the most celebrated +kingdoms of the Negroes. ‘From the Mountains of the Moon,’ says +Scheadeddin, ‘the Egyptian Nile takes its rise. It cuts horizontally the +equator in its course north. Many rivers come from this mountain, and +unite in a great lake. From this lake comes the Nile, the greatest and +most beautiful of the rivers of all the earth. Many rivers derived from +this great river water Nubia,’ &c. + +“From the Arabs we may fairly descend to our own times. The early +Portuguese discoverers obtained a great deal of geographical information +regarding the interior of Africa, and especially regarding two lakes +near the Equator, from one of which, the most northern, the Egyptian +Nile was stated to flow. This information was largely used by the French +geographer (D’Anville), and the Dutch geographers of that time. +Subsequently Bruce and others told us about the great disparity in +magnitude between the Blue and the White Rivers; the latter, they +asserted, rose far to the south, near to the Equator, and amongst +mountains covered with eternal snow. Twenty-five years ago, Mohammed +Ali, the clear-sighted and energetic ruler of Egypt, sent an expedition, +consisting of several barques well provided with everything necessary, +and under able naval officers, to explore the White Nile to its source, +if possible. They did their work so far well, but were forced to turn +back on the 26th of January, 1840, in lat. 30° 22′ N., for want of +sufficient depth of water for their vessels. At lat. 3° 30′ they found +the river 1370 feet broad and say six feet deep. In every day’s work on +the voyage they gave the width of the river, the depth of the river, the +force of its current, its temperature, and the miles (geographical) made +good daily.” + +These quotations bring us down to our own times. A few of the principal +characters, through whose agency the problem of the Sources of the Nile +has been solved, still live. The old African Association became merged +in 1831 into the Royal Geographical Society. The change of title seems +to have evoked greater energies, and the publications of the new +society, the position of its President, his influence, learning, and +tact, soon attracted general public attention. In the midst of this, +Messrs. Krapf and Rebmann and Erhardt, missionaries located at Mombasa, +on the east coast of Africa, announced that Arab traders and natives +acquainted with the interior informed them that far inland there was a +very large lake, or several lakes, which some spoke of under one +collective title. The information thus obtained was illustrated by a +sketch map by Mr. Erhardt, and was published in the ‘Proceedings of the +Royal Geographical Society’ in 1856, “the most striking feature of which +was a vast lake of a curious shape, extending through 12° of latitude.” + + LAKE TANGANIKA. + +The Royal Geographical Society was induced to despatch an expedition to +East Africa for the exploration of this interesting inland region, the +command of which it entrusted to Lieutenant Richard Francis Burton, and +Lieutenant John Hanning Speke, officers of the East Indian Army. + +Lieutenant Burton was already distinguished as an enterprising traveller +by his book, ‘Pilgrimage to Mekka and Medina.’ Speke had, until this +time, only a local reputation, but bore the character of being a very +promising officer, and an amiable gentleman with a fondness for natural +history and botanical studies, besides being an ardent sportsman and an +indefatigable pedestrian. + +Burton and Speke’s expedition landed at Zanzibar on the 20th of +December, 1856. On the 13th of February, 1858, after a journey of 950 +miles, and at a distance of 540 lineal geographical miles from the point +of departure on the Indian Ocean, they first sighted and discovered Lake +Tanganika. How much they explored of the lake is best illustrated by +their map, which is appended to this present volume. Speke first crossed +Lake Tanganika to the western side to Kasengé, an island, then returned +by the same route to Kawelé, the district or quarter occupied at that +time by the Arabs, in a large straggling village on the shores of the +lake, in the country of Ujiji. + +On the second exploration of the lake, Lieutenant Burton accompanied +Lieutenant Speke to a cove in Uvira, which is about thirteen miles from +the north end of the lake. Unable to reach the extremity of the lake, +they both returned to Ujiji. Lieutenant Speke was most anxious to +proceed on a third tour of exploration of the lake, but was overruled by +his chief, Lieutenant Burton. On the 26th of May, 1858, the expedition +turned homewards, arriving in Unyanyembé on the 20th of June. + + LAKE VICTORIA + +While Lieutenant Burton preferred to rest in Unyanyembé to collect the +copious information about the Lake Regions from the Arabs and natives, +which we see set forth in a masterly manner in his book, Lieutenant +Speke, of a more active disposition, mustered a small force of men, and, +with his superior’s permission, set out northward on July 9, 1858, on an +exploring tour, and on the 30th of the same month arrived at the south +end of a lake called by the Wanyamwezi who were with him the N’yanza, or +the Lake, and by the Arabs, Ukerewé. + + ---------------------------------------------------------------- + + MAPPA DE KRAPF, REBMANN, LIVINGSTONE, & ERHARDT — 1849-56. + +[Illustration: _London: Sampson Low, Marston & Company, Limited. +E. Weller, Litho._] + + ---------------------------------------------------------------- + +At Muanza, in Usukuma, he took a survey of the body of the water such as +might be embraced in a view taken from an altitude of 200 feet above the +lake. + +In his reflections on the magnitude of the water expanse before him, +Speke wrote: “I no longer felt any doubt that the lake at my feet gave +birth to that interesting river, the source of which has been the +subject of so much speculation, and the object of so many explorers.” + + * * * * * * + +And again: “This is a far more extensive lake than the Tanganika; so +broad you could not see across it, and so long that nobody knew its +length.” To this magnificent lake Lieutenant Speke, its discoverer, gave +the name of Victoria N’yanza. + +From this short view of the Victoria Lake, Speke returned to Unyanyembé, +and announced to Lieutenant Burton that he had discovered the source of +the White Nile. Lieutenant Burton did not acquiesce in his companion’s +views of the importance of the discovery, and in his ‘Lake Regions’ and +‘Nile Basins,’ in lectures, speeches, and essays in magazines, and +conversations with friends, always vigorously combated the theory. + +On the 30th of February, 1859, Burton and Speke’s task of exploration, +which had occupied twenty-five months, terminated with the arrival of +the expedition at the little maritime village of Konduchi, on the Indian +Ocean. + + * * * * * * + +On opening John Hanning Speke’s book, ‘Journal of the Discovery of the +Source of the Nile,’ we are informed on the very first page that his +second important expedition into Africa, “which was avowedly for the +purpose of establishing the truth of the assertion that the Victoria +N’yanza (which he discovered on the 30th of July, 1858) would eventually +prove to be the source of the Nile, may be said to have commenced on the +9th of May, 1859, the first day of his return to England from his last +expedition, when, at the invitation of Sir Roderick Impey Murchison, he +called at his house to show him his map, for the information of the +Royal Geographical Society.” + +Mr. Speke who was now known as Captain Speke, was intrusted with the +command of the succeeding expedition which the Royal Geographical +Society determined to send out for the purpose of verifying the theories +above stated. He was accompanied this time by an old brother officer in +India, Captain James Augustus Grant. + +The expedition under Speke and Grant set out from Zanzibar on the 25th +of September, 1860. On the 23rd of January, 1861, it arrived at the +house occupied by Burton and Speke’s expedition, in Tabora, Unyanyembé, +having traversed nearly the entire distance along the same route that +had been adopted formerly. In the middle of May the journey to Karagwé +began. After a stay full of interest with Rumanika, king of Karagwé, +they followed a route which did not permit them even a view of Lake +Victoria, until they caught sight of the great lake near Meruka, on the +31st of January, 1862. From this point, the expedition, up to its +arrival at the court of Mtesa, emperor of Uganda, must have caught +several distant views of the lake, though not travelling near its +shores. During a little excursion from the Emperor’s capital, they also +discovered a long broad inlet, which is henceforth known as Murchison +Bay, on its northern coast. + +On the 7th of July, 1862, the two travellers started in a north-easterly +direction, away from the lake, and Speke states that he arrived at +Urondogani on the 21st. From this point he marched up the river along +the left bank, and reached the Ripon Falls at the outlet of Lake +Victoria on the 20th of July. He thus sums up the result and net value +of the explorations of himself and companion in the years 1860-62:— + +“The Expedition had now performed its functions. I saw that old Father +Nile without any doubt rises in the Victoria N’yanza, and as I had +foretold, that Lake is the great source of the holy river which cradled +the first expounder of our religious belief.... The most remote waters, +or _top-head of the Nile_, is the southern end of the lake, situated +close on the 3° lat., which gives to the Nile the surprising length in +direct measurement, rolling over 34 degrees of latitude, of above 2300 +miles, or more than one-eleventh of the circumference of our globe. Now, +from the southern point round by the west, to where the great Nile +stream rises, there is only one feeder of any importance, and that is +the _Kitangule_ River; while from the southernmost point round by the +east, to the strait, there are no rivers of any importance.”... + + ---------------------------------------------------------------- + + LIVINGSTONE, BURTON & SPEKE, SPEKE & GRANT & VON DER DECKEN — 1856-1863. + +[Illustration: _London: Sampson Low, Marston & Company, Limited. +E. Weller, Litho._] + + ---------------------------------------------------------------- + +He christened the falling effluent, where it drops from the level of the +lake and escapes northerly into the Victoria Nile, “Ripon Falls,” in +honour of the Earl of Ripon, who was President of the Royal Geographical +Society when the expedition was organised, and the arm of the lake from +which the Victoria Nile issued, Napoleon Channel, as a token of respect +to the Paris Geographical Society, who had honoured him with a gold +medal for the discovery of Lake Victoria. + +Following this paragraph, Captain Speke makes an important statement, to +which I beg attention: “One thing seemed at first perplexing, the volume +of water in the Kitangule (Alexandra Nile) looked as large as the Nile +(Victoria), but then the one was a slow river, and the other swift, and +on this account I could form no adequate judgment of their relative +values.” + +On the 4th of June, Captain Speke and Grant embarked at Alexandria, +Egypt, for England, where they arrived after an absence of 1146 days. + +Though one might suppose that the explorers had sufficient grounds for +supposing that Lake Victoria covered an enormous area, quite as large, +or, approaching to the 29,000 square miles’ extent Captain Speke boldly +sketched it, there were not wanting many talented men to dispute each +point in the assertions he made. One of the boldest who took opposing +views to Speke was his quondam companion, Captain R. F. Burton, and he +was supported by very many others, for very plausible reasons, which +cannot, however, be touched upon here. + +Doctor David Livingstone, while on his last expedition, obtained much +oral information in the interior of Africa from Arab traders, which +dissected Speke’s Grand Lake into five; and it really seemed as if, from +the constant assaults made upon it by geographers and cartographers, it +would in time be erased from the chart altogether, or become a mere +“rush drain,” like one of those which Speke and Grant found so numerous +in that region. It was evident, therefore, that a thorough exploration +of Lake Victoria was absolutely necessary to set at rest, once and for +ever, one of the great problems that was such a source of trouble and +dissatisfaction to the geographers of Europe and America. + + LAKE TANGANIKA AGAIN. + +The next European to arrive at the shores of Lake Tanganika, after +Burton and Speke, was Dr. David Livingstone. He first saw it as he stood +on the verge of the plateau which rises steeply from the surface of the +Tanganika at its south-west corner, on the 2nd of April, 1867; and on +the 14th of March, 1869, and after traversing nearly the whole of the +western shore from the extreme south end of the lake to Kassengé, the +island which Speke visited in 1858, he crossed over to the east side and +reached Ujiji. + +On the 15th of July, 1869, after camping at Kassengé, when on his way to +Manyema, he writes in his journal the following opinion of Lake +Tanganika; “Tanganika narrows at Uvira or Vira, and goes out of sight +among the mountains; then it appears as a waterfall into the Lake of +Quando, seen by Banyamwezi.” + +In his letters home Dr. Livingstone constantly made mention of two +lakes, called Upper Tanganika, which Burton discovered, and Lower +Tanganika, which Sir Samuel Baker discovered, and which formed, as he +said, the second line of drainage trending to and discharging its waters +into the Nile. + +He makes record in his Journals of the causes which induced him to +verify his opinions by a personal investigation of the north end of Lake +Tanganika on the 16th of November, 1871, a few days after my arrival, at +Ujiji, I being the fourth European who had arrived on the shores of the +Lake, in this manner:— + +“_16th November, 1871._—As Tanganika Explorations are said by Mr. +Stanley to be an object of interest to Sir Roderick, we go at his +expense and by his men to the north end of the lake.” + +“_24th November._—To Point Kisuka in Mukamba’s country. A Mgwana came to +us from King Mukamba, and asserted most positively that all the water of +Tanganika flowed into the River Lusizé, and then on to Ukerewe of Mteza; +nothing could be more clear than his statements.” + +“_25th November._—Our friend of yesterday now declared as positively as +before, that the water of Lusizé flowed into Tanganika, and not the way +he said yesterday! Tanganika closes in except at one point N. and by W. +of us.” + +“_26th November._—The end of Tanganika seen clearly, is rounded off +about 4′ broad from east to west.” + +On the 29th of November, Livingstone and I, in a canoe manned by several +strong rowers, entered into Lusizé, or Rusizi, and discovered that it +flowed _into_ Lake Tanganika by three mouths with an impetuous current. + +The explorations of Livingstone and myself in November 1871 to the north +end of Lake Tanganika resolved that portion of the problem, but +described only about thirteen miles of coast unvisited by Burton and +Speke. On our way back, however, by a southern route to Unyanyembé, we +added to the knowledge of the Tanganika coast-line, on the eastern side +from Kabogo Point as far as Urimba, about twenty miles farther than +Speke had seen. + +In August 1872, about five months after I had departed from him +homewards, he recommenced his last journey. On the 8th of October of the +same year he saw the Tanganika again about sixty miles south of the +point where he and I bade farewell to the lake, eight months previously. +Clinging to the lake, he travelled along the eastern shore, until he +reached the southernmost end of it. + +From this it will appear evident that the only portion of Lake Tanganika +remaining unvisited was that part of the west-end shore, between Kasengé +Island and the northernmost point of what Burton and Speke called Ubwari +Island, and what Livingstone and I called Muzimu Island. Doubtless there +were many portions of Livingstone’s route overland which rendered the +coast line somewhat obscure, and in his hurried journey to Ujiji in +1869, by canoe from Mompara’s to Kasengé, a portion of the Uguha coast +was left unexplored. But it is Livingstone who was the first to map out +and give a tolerably correct configuration to that part of Lake +Tanganika extending from Urimba round to the south end and up along the +eastern shore to Kasengé Island, as it was Burton and Speke who were the +first to map out that portion of the Tanganika extending from Ujiji to a +point nearly opposite Ubwari and the north-west, from Ubwari’s north end +as far as Uvira. + +In February 1874 Lieutenant Verney Lovett Cameron, R.N., arrived at the +same village of Ujiji, which had been seen by Burton and Speke in 1858, +and which was known as the place where I discovered Livingstone in 1872. +He had traversed a route rendered familiar to thousands of the readers +of the ‘Lake Regions of Central Africa,’ ‘the Journal of the Discovery +of the Nile,’ and ‘How I found Livingstone,’ through a country carefully +mapped, surveyed and described. But the land that lay before him +westerly had only been begun by Livingstone, and there were great and +important fields of exploration beyond the farthest point he had +reached. + +Lieutenant Cameron procured two canoes, turned south, and coasted along +the eastern shore of the Tanganika, and when near the southern end of +the Lake, crossed it, turned up north along the western shore, and +discovered a narrow channel, between two spits of pure white sand. +Entering this channel, the Lukuga creek, he traced it until farther +progress was stopped by an immovable and impenetrable barrier of +papyrus. This channel, Lieutenant Cameron wrote, was the outlet of Lake +Tanganika. Satisfied with his discovery, he withdrew from the channel, +pursued his course along the west coast as far as Kasengé Island, the +camping-place of both Speke and Livingstone, and returned direct to +Ujiji without making further effort. + +Lake Tanganika, as will be seen, upon Lieutenant Cameron’s departure, +had its entire coast-line described, except the extreme south end, the +mouth of the Lufuvu and that portion of coast lying between Kasengé +Island and the northern point of Ubwari, about 140 miles in extent. + + LIVINGSTONE’S GREAT RIVER. + +What we knew distinctly of this great river began with Livingstone’s +last journey, when he wrote from Ujiji in 1869, repeating what he had +already written in 1867, at the town of Cazembe, in a despatch to Lord +Clarendon. + +Briefly, this last journey began, let us say, at Zanzibar, the date of +his arrival being the 28th of January, 1866. On the 19th of March he +sailed in H.M.S. _Penguin_ for the mouth of the Rovuma river, after +invoking the blessing of the Most High upon his meditated intercourse +with the heathen. Effecting a landing at Mikindini Bay, he directed his +course in a south-westerly direction, arriving within view of Lake +Nyassa on the 13th of September, 1866. + + ---------------------------------------------------------------- + + SCHWEINFURTH, BAKER, LIVINGSTONE, STANLEY & CAMERON — 1866-75. + +[Illustration: _London: Sampson Low, Marston & Company, Limited. +E. Weller, Litho._] + + ---------------------------------------------------------------- + +On the 16th of January, 1867, he reached the most southerly streams +emptying into the Chambezi, after crossing the mountains which separate +the streams flowing east to the Loangwa. He describes the northern slope +which gives birth to the affluents of the new river thus: “It is +needless to repeat that it is all forest on the northern slopes of the +mountains—open glade and miles of forest; ground at present all sloppy, +oozes full and overflowing, feet constantly wet. Rivulets rush with +clear water; though they are in flood we can guess which are perennial +and which are torrents that dry up; they flow northwards and westwards +to the Chambezi.” + +Eight days later, in S. lat. 10° 34′, he reached the main river—the +Chambezi—a stream “flooded with clear water-banks not more than 40 yards +apart, showing abundant animal life in its waters and on its banks as it +flowed westwards.” Just at the point Livingstone first saw the Chambezi, +numerous streams are gathered from all points—northerly, easterly, and +southerly, from the westerly slope of the uplands of Mambwe into the +main river, which presently becomes a formidable river, and which +subsequent explorations proved to enter Lake Bemba on its eastern side. + +On the 8th of November, 1867, the traveller makes a very comprehensive +statement. It is the evening of his arrival at Lake Mweru or Moero. +“Lake Moero seems of goodly size, and is flanked by ranges of mountains +on the east and west. Its banks are of coarse sand, and slope gradually +down to the water; outside of these banks stands a thick belt of +tropical vegetation in which fishermen build their huts. The country +called Rua lies on the west, and is seen as a lofty range of dark +mountains; another range of less height, but more broken, stands along +the eastern shore.” + + * * * * * * + +“The northern shore has a fine sweep, like an unbent bow, and round the +western end flows the water that makes the River Lualaba, which, before +it enters Mweru, is the Luapula, and that again (if the most intelligent +report speak true) is the Chambezi before it enters Lake Bemba or +Bangweolo.” + +On page 261, vol i., of ‘Livingstone’s Last Journals,’ he sums up very +succinctly what knowledge he has gained of the country which was the +scene of his explorations, 1866-67. “First of all the Chambezi runs in +the country of Mambwe, N.E. of Molemba. It then flows S.W. and W. till +it reaches 11° S. lat. and long. 29° E., where it forms Lake Bemba or +Bangweolo. Emerging thence, it assumes the new name Luapula, and comes +down here to fall into Mweru. On going out of this lake it is known by +the name Lualaba as it flows N.W. in Rua to form another lake with many +islands called Ulengé or Urengé. Beyond this, information is not +positive as to whether it enters Tanganika, or another lake beyond +that.” + +On the 18th of July, 1868, the discovery of Lake Bemba or Bangweolo was +made by Dr. Livingstone. + +On page 59, vol. ii., ‘Last Journals,’ we think we have an explanation +of the causes which led him to form those hypotheses and theories which +he subsequently made public by his letters, or elaborated in his +journals, on the subject of the Nile Sources. + +“_Bambarre, 25th August, 1870._—One of my waking dreams is that the +legendary tales about Moses coming up into Lower Ethiopia, with Merr his +foster mother, and founding a city which he called in her honour +‘Meroe,’ may have a substratum of fact.” + + * * * * * * + +“I dream of discovering some monumental relics of Meroe, and if anything +confirmatory of sacred history does remain, I pray to be guided +thereunto. If the sacred chronology would thereby be confirmed, I would +not grudge the toil and hardship, hunger and pain I have endured—the +irritable ulcers would only be discipline.” + +The old explorer, a grand spectacle and a specimen of most noble manhood +in these latter days of his life, travels on and on, but never reaches +nearer the solution of the problem which puzzles his soul than the Arab +depot Nyangwé, which is situate a few miles south of 4° S. lat. and a +little east of 26° E. long. where he leaves the great river still +flowing north. + +Livingstone never returned to this point, but retracing his steps to +Ujiji, thence to the north end of Lake Tanganika and back again to Ujiji +and Unyanyembé, directed his course to the southern shore of Lake Bemba, +where he died of dysentery in the beginning of May 1873. + + ---------------------------------------------------------------- + + STANLEY — 1874-77. + +[Illustration: _London: Sampson Low, Marston & Company, Limited. +E. Weller, Litho._] + + ---------------------------------------------------------------- + +In the month of August 1874, Lieutenant Cameron, whom we left at Ujiji +after the delineation of that part of Lake Tanganika south of Ujiji, +after traversing Livingstone’s route to Kasongo’s Manyema, and +travelling by canoe about thirty-five miles, reaches Nyangwé, his +predecessor’s farthest point. Though he does not attempt to resolve this +problem, or penetrate the region north of Nyangwé, Lieutenant Cameron +ventures upon the following hypothesis: “This great stream must be one +of the head-waters of the Kongo, for where else could that giant amongst +rivers, second only to the Amazon in its volume, obtain 2,000,000 cubic +feet of water which it unceasingly pours each second into the Atlantic? +The large affluents from the north would explain the comparatively small +rise of the Kongo at the coast; for since its enormous basin extends to +both sides of the equator, some portion of it is always under the zone +of rains, and therefore the supply to the main stream is nearly the same +at all times, instead of varying as is the case with tropical rivers, +whose basins lie completely on one side of the equator.” Lieutenant +Cameron illustrates his hypothesis by causing Livingstone’s great river +to flow soon after leaving Nyangwé straight westward, the highest part +of which is only 3° 30′ S. lat. + +At Nyangwé, Lieutenant Cameron crossed the river, proceeded south with +some Arab traders a few days’ journey, then, accompanied by guides, +travelled still south to Juma Merikani’s, or Kasongo’s, thence, after a +stay of nearly nine months, accompanied by Portuguese traders, he +proceeded to Benguella, a small port belonging to the Portuguese +Government on the Atlantic Ocean, having crossed Africa from east to +west south of S. lat. 4°. + +The above is a brief sketch which with the aid of the small maps +attached to this volume explains and illustrates the several +geographical problems left by my predecessors. I now propose to describe +how these problems were solved, and the incomplete discoveries of Burton +and Speke, Speke and Grant, and Doctor Livingstone were finished, and +how we sighted the lake Muta N’zigé, by its broad arm, which I have +called Beatrice Gulf, by a comprehensive exploration, lasting, from sea +to sea, two years eight months and twenty days; the results of which are +to be found embodied in these two volumes, entitled: ‘_Through the Dark +Continent; the Sources of the Nile, around the Great Lakes of Africa, +and down the “Livingstone” to the Atlantic Ocean_.’ + +----- + +# 1: + + The portrait has been graciously subscribed— + + “All’ intrepido viaggiatore + “Enrico Stanley + “UMBERTO RE.” + +# 2: + + I have received the honour of appointment as Officier de l’Instruction + Publique, France; Gold Medallist of the Geographical Societies of + London, Paris, Italy, and Marseilles; Silver Medallist of the Chamber + of Commerce of Marseilles, and of the Municipality of Marseilles; + Honorary Member of the Geographical Societies of Antwerp, Berlin, + Bordeaux, Bremen, Hamburg, Lyons, Marseilles, Montpellier, Vienna, &c. + +[Illustration: + + VIEW OF A PORTION OF THE SEA-FRONT OF ZANZIBAR, FROM THE WATER + BATTERY TO SHANGANI POINT. + (_From a photograph by Mr. Buchanan, of Natal._)] +] + + + + + CHAPTER I. + +Arrival at Zanzibar Island—Life at Zanzibar—The town of Zanzibar, its + roadstead and buildings—The One Cocoa-nut tree and the red cliffs— + Selection and purchase of goods for the journey—Residence of Prince + Barghash—Busy mornings—Pleasant rides and quiet evenings. + + +_Sept. 21._—Twenty-eight months had elapsed between my departure from +Zanzibar after the discovery of Livingstone and my re-arrival on that +island, September 21, 1874. + +The well-remembered undulating ridges, and the gentle slopes clad with +palms and mango trees bathed in warm vapour, seemed in that tranquil +drowsy state which at all times any portion of tropical Africa presents +at first appearance. A pale-blue sky covered the hazy land and sleeping +sea as we steamed through the strait that separates Zanzibar from the +continent. Every stranger, at first view of the shores, proclaims his +pleasure. The gorgeous verdure, the distant purple ridges, the calm sea, +the light gauzy atmosphere, the semi-mysterious silence which pervades +all nature, evoke his admiration. For it is probable that he has sailed +through the stifling Arabian Sea, with the grim, frowning mountains of +Nubia on the one hand, and on the other the drear, ochreous-coloured +ridges of the Arab Peninsula; and perhaps the aspect of the thirsty +volcanic rocks of Aden and the dry brown bluffs of Guardafui is still +fresh in his memory. + +But a great change has taken place. As he passes close to the deeply +verdant shores of Zanzibar Island, he views nature robed in the greenest +verdure, with a delightful freshness of leaf, exhaling fragrance to the +incoming wanderer. He is wearied with the natural deep-blue of the +ocean, and eager for any change. He remembers the unconquerable aridity +and the dry bleached heights he last saw, and lo! what a change! +Responding to his half formed wish, the earth rises before him verdant, +prolific, bursting with fatness. Palms raise their feathery heads and +mangoes their great globes of dark green foliage; banana plantations +with impenetrable shade, groves of orange, fragrant cinnamon, and +spreading bushy clove, diversify and enrich the landscape. Jack-fruit +trees loom up with great massive crowns of leaf and branch, while +between the trees and in every open space succulent grasses and plants +cover the soil with a thick garment of verdure. There is nothing grand +or sublime in the view before him, and his gaze is not attracted to any +special feature, because all is toned down to a uniform softness by the +exhalation rising from the warm heaving bosom of the island. His +imagination is therefore caught and exercised, his mind loses its +restless activity, and reposes under the influence of the eternal summer +atmosphere. + +Presently on the horizon there rises the thin upright shadows of ships’ +masts, and to the left begins to glimmer a pale white mass which, we are +told, is the capital of the island of Zanzibar. Still steaming +southward, we come within rifle-shot of the low green shores, and now +begin to be able to define the capital. It consists of a number of +square massive structures, with little variety of height and all +whitewashed, standing on a point of low land, separated by a broad +margin of sand beach from the sea, with a bay curving gently from the +point, inwards to the left towards us. + +Within two hours from the time we first caught sight of the town, we +have dropped anchor about 700 yards from the beach. The arrival of the +British India Company’s steamer causes a sensation. It is the monthly +“mail” from Aden and Europe! A number of boats break away from the beach +and come towards the vessel. Europeans sit at the stern, the rowers are +white-shirted Wangwana[3] with red caps. The former are anxious to hear +the news, to get newspapers and letters, and to receive the small +parcels sent by friendly hands “per favour of captain.” + +The stranger, of course, is intensely interested in this life existing +near the African Equator, now first revealed to him, and all that he +sees and hears of figures and faces and sounds is being freshly +impressed on his memory. Figures and faces are picturesque enough. +Happy, pleased-looking men of black, yellow, or tawny colour, with long +white cotton shirts, move about with quick, active motion, and cry out, +regardless of order, to their friends or mates in the Swahili or Arabic +language, and their friends or mates respond with equally loud voice and +lively gesture, until, with fresh arrivals, there appears to be a Babel +created, wherein English, French, Swahili, and Arabic accents mix with +Hindi, and, perhaps, Persian. + +In the midst of such a scene I stepped into a boat to be rowed to the +house of my old friend, Mr. Augustus Sparhawk, of the Bertram Agency. At +this low-built, massive-looking house near Shangani Point, I was +welcomed with all the friendliness and hospitality of my first visit, +when, three years and a half previously, I arrived at Zanzibar to set +out for the discovery of Livingstone. + +With Mr. Sparhawk’s aid I soon succeeded in housing comfortably my three +young Englishmen, Francis John and Edward Pocock and Frederick Barker, +and my five dogs, and in stowing safely on shore the yawl _Wave_, bought +for me at Yarmouth by Mr. Edwin Arnold, the gig, and the tons of goods, +provisions, and stores I had brought. + +Life at Zanzibar is a busy one to the intending explorer. Time flies +rapidly, and each moment of daylight must be employed in the selection +and purchase of the various kinds of cloth, beads, and wire, in demand +by the different tribes of the mainland through whose countries he +purposes journeying. Strong, half-naked porters come in with great bales +of unbleached cottons, striped and coloured fabrics, handkerchiefs and +red caps, bags of blue, green, red, white and amber-coloured beads, +small and large, round and oval, and coils upon coils of thick brass +wire. These have to be inspected, assorted, arranged, and numbered +separately, have to be packed in portable bales, sacks, or packages, or +boxed according to their character and value. The house-floors are +littered with cast-off wrappings and covers, box-lids, and a medley of +rejected paper, cloth, zinc covers and broken boards, sawdust and other +débris. Porters and servants and masters, employés and employers, pass +backwards and forwards, to and fro, amid all this litter, roll bales +over, or tumble about boxes; and a rending of cloth or paper, clattering +of hammers, demands for the marking-pots, or the number of bale and box, +with quick, hurried breathing and shouting, are heard from early morning +until night. + +Towards evening, after such a glaring day of glaring heat and busy +toil, comes weariness: the arm-chair is sought, and the pipe or cigar +with a cup of tea rounds off the eventful hours. Or, as sometimes the +case would be, we would strike work early, and after a wholesome dinner +at 4.30 P.M. would saddle our horses and ride out into the interior of +the island, returning during the short twilight. Or we would take the +well-known path to Mnazi-Moya—the One Cocoa-nut Tree, where it stands +weird and sentinel-like over humble tombs on the crest of an ancient +beach behind Shangani Point. Or, as the last and only resource left to +a contemplative and studious mind, we would take our easy-chairs on the +flat roof, where the cowhides of the merchant are poisoned and dried, +and, with our feet elevated above our heads, watch the night coming. + +If we take our ride, in a few minutes we may note, at the pleasantest +hour, those local features which, with the thermometer at 95° Fahr., +might have been a dangerous pleasure, or, at any rate, disagreeable. +Through a narrow, crooked, plastered lane, our horses’ feet clattering +noisily as we go, we ride by the tall, white-washed, massive houses, +which rise to two and three stories above our heads. The residences +of the European merchants and the officials here stand side by side, +and at the tall doorway of each sits the porter—as comfortable as his +circumstances will permit. As we pass on, we get short views of the +bay, and then plunge again into the lane until we come in view of the +worm-eaten old fort, crumbling fast into disuse and demolition. Years +ago, behind it, I saw a market where some slaves were being sold. +Happily there is no such market now. + +We presently catch sight, on our right, of the entrance to the fort +at which sit on guard a few lazy Baluchis and dingy-looking Arabs. On +our left is the saluting battery, which does frequent service for the +ignition of much powder, an antique mode of exchanging compliments +with ships of war, and of paying respect to Government officials. The +customs sheds are close by, and directly in front of us rises the +lofty house and harem of Prince Barghash. It is a respectable-looking +building of the Arab architecture which finds favour at Muscat, three +stories high and whitewashed—as all houses here appear to be. It +is connected by a covered gangway, about 30 feet above our heads, +with a large house on the opposite side of the lane, and possesses +an ambitious doorway raised 3 feet above the street, and reached by +four or five broad and circular-steps. Within the lower hall are some +soldiers of the same pattern as those at the fort, armed with the +Henry-Martini rifle, or matchlock, sword, and targe. A very short time +takes us into a still narrower lane, where the whitewash is not so +white as at Shangani, the European quarter. We are in the neighbourhood +of Melindi now, where the European who has not been able to locate +himself at Shangani is obliged to put up with neighbours of East Indian +race or Arabs. Past and beyond Melindi is a medley of tall white +houses and low sheds, where wealth and squalor jostle side by side, +and then we find ourselves at the bridge over the inlet of Malagash, +which extends from the bay up to Mnazi-Moya, or the One Cocoa-nut, +behind Shangani. The banks on either side are in view as we pass over +the bridge, and we note a dense mass of sheds and poor buildings, +amid hills of garbage and heaps of refuse, and numbers of half-naked +negroes, or people in white clothes, giving the whole an appearance +somewhat resembling the more sordid village of Boulak, near Cairo. + +Having crossed the bridge from Melindi, we are in what is very +appropriately termed Ngambu, or “t’other side.” The street is wide, but +the quarter is more squalid. It is here we find the Wangwana, or +Freedmen of Zanzibar, whose services the explorer will require as escort +on the continent. Here they live very happily with the well-to-do +Coastman, or Mswahili, poor Banyans, Hindis, Persians, Arabs, and +Baluchis, respectable slave artisans, and tradesmen. When the people +have donned their holiday attire, Ngambu becomes picturesque, even gay, +and yields itself up to wild, frolicsome abandon of mirth. On working +days, though the colours are still varied, and give relief to the clay +walls and withered palm-frond roofs, this poor man’s district has a +dingy hue, which black faces and semi-naked bodies seems to deepen. +However, the quarter is only a mile and a half long, and quickening our +paces, we soon have before us detached houses and huts, clusters of +cocoa-nut palms and ancient mango trees crowned with enormous dark green +domes of foliage. For about three miles one can enjoy a gallop along an +ochreous-coloured road of respectable width, bordered with hedges. +Behind the hedges grow the sugar-cane, banana, palm, orange, clove +cinnamon, and jack-fruit trees, cassava, castor-oil, diversified with +patches of millet, Indian corn, sweet-potatoes, and egg-plant, and +almost every vegetable of tropic growth. The fields, gently undulating, +display the variety of their vegetation, on which the lights and shadows +play, deepening or paling as the setting sun clouds or reveals the +charms of the verdure. + +Finally arriving upon the crest of Wirezu hill, we have a most beautiful +view of the roadstead and town of Zanzibar, and, as we turn to regard +it, are struck with the landscape lying at our feet. Sloping away +gradually towards the town, the tropical trees already mentioned seem, +in the bird’s-eye view, to mass themselves into a thin forest, out of +which, however, we can pick out clearly the details of tree and hut. +Whatever of beauty may be in the scene, it is Nature’s own, for man has +done little; he has but planted a root, or a seed, or a tender sapling +carelessly. Nature has nourished the root and the seed and the sapling, +until they became sturdy giants, rising one above another in hillocks of +dark green verdure, and has given to the whole that wonderful depth and +variety of colour which she only exhibits in the Tropics. + +The walk to Mnazi-Moya will compel the traveller to moralize, and +meditate pensively. Decay speaks to him, and from the moment he leaves +the house to the moment he returns, his mind is constantly dwelling +upon mortality. For, after lounging through two or three lanes, he +comes to a populous graveyard, over which the wild grass has obtained +supreme control, and through the stalks of which show white the fading +and moss-touched headstones. Across the extensive acreage allotted +to the victims of the sad cholera years, the Prince of Zanzibar has +ruthlessly cut his way to form a garden, which he has surrounded +with a high wall. Here a grinning skull and there a bleached thigh +bone or sunken grave exposing its ghastly contents attract one’s +attention. From time immemorial this old beach has been the depository +of the dead, and unless the Prince prosecutes his good work for the +reclamation of this golgotha (and the European officials urge it on +him), the custom may be continued for a long period yet. + +Beyond this cemetery is to be seen the muddy head of Malagash inlet, +between which and the sea south of Shangani there lies only this antique +sand bar, about two hundred yards in breadth. On the crest of the sand +bar stands the One Cocoa-nut Palm which has given its name to this +locality. Sometimes this spot is also known as the “fiddler’s” grave. It +is the breathing place of the hard-worked and jaded European, and here, +seated on one of the plastered tombs near the base of the One Cocoa-nut +Palm, with only a furtive look now and then at the “sleep and a +forgetting” which those humble white structures represent, he may take +his fill of ocean and watch the sun go down to his daily rest. + +[Illustration: RED CLIFFS BEHIND UNIVERSITIES MISSION.] + +Beyond Mnazi-Moya is Mbwenni, the Universities Mission, and close behind +are some peculiar red cliffs, which are worth seeing. + +From the roof of the house, if we take the “last resource” already +mentioned, we have a view of the roadstead and bay of Zanzibar. +Generally there ride at anchor two or three British ships of war just in +from a hunt after contumacious Arabs, who persist, against the orders of +their prince, in transporting slaves on the high seas. There is a vessel +moored closer to Frenchman’s Island, its “broken back” a memento of the +Prince’s fleet shattered by the hurricane of 1872. Nearer in-shore float +a number of Arab dhows, boats, lighters, steam launches, and two +steamers, one of which is the famous _Deerhound_. One day I counted as a +mere matter of curiosity, the great and small vessels in roadstead and +harbour, and found that there were 135. + +From our easy-chairs on the roof we can see the massive building +occupied formerly by the Universities Mission, and now the residence of +Captain Prideaux, Acting British Consul and Political Resident, whose +acquaintance I first made soon after his release from Magdala in 1868. +This building stands upon the extremity of Shangani Point, and the first +line of houses which fronts the beach extends northerly in a gentle +sweep, almost up to Livingstone’s old residence on the other side of +Malagash inlet. + +During the day the beach throughout its length is alive with the moving +figures of hamals, bearing clove and cinnamon bags, ivory, copal and +other gums, and hides, to be shipped in the lighters waiting along the +water’s edge, with sailors from the shipping, and black boatmen +discharging the various imports on the sand. In the evening the beach is +crowded with the naked forms of workmen and boys from the “go-downs,” +preparing to bathe and wash the dust of copal and hides off their bodies +in the surf. Some of the Arab merchants have ordered chairs on the +piers, or bunders, to chat sociably until the sun sets, and prayer time +has come. Boats hurry by with their masters and sailors returning to +their respective vessels. Dhows move sluggishly past, hoisting as they +go the creaking yards of their lateen sails, bound for the mainland +ports. Zanzibar canoes and “matepes” are arriving with wood and produce, +and others of the same native form and make are squaring their mat +sails, outward bound. Sunset approaches, and after sunset silence +follows soon. For as there are no wheeled carriages with the eternal +rumble of their traffic in Zanzibar, with the early evening comes early +peace and rest. + +The intending explorer, however, bound for that dark edge of the +continent which he can just see lying low along the west as he looks +from Zanzibar, has thoughts at this hour which the resident cannot +share. As little as his eyes can pierce and define the details in that +gloomy streak on the horizon, so little can he tell whether weal or woe +lies before him. The whole is buried in mystery, over which he ponders, +certain of nothing but the uncertainty of life. Yet will he learn to +sketch out a comparison between what he sees at sunset and his own +future. Dark, indeed, is the gloom of the fast-coming night over the +continent, but does he not see that there are still bright flushes of +colour, and rosy bars, and crimson tints, amidst what otherwise would be +universal blackness? And may he not therefore say—“As those colours now +brighten the darkening west, so my hopes brighten my dark future”? + +[Illustration: A HOUSE AT ZANZIBAR.] + +----- + +# 3: + + Wangwana (freed negroes). + + + + + CHAPTER II. + +Seyyid Barghash—His prohibition of slavery, character and reforms—Treaty + with British Government by Sir Bartle Frere—Tramways the need of + Africa—Arabs in the interior—Arabs in Zanzibar—Mtuma or Mgwana?—The + Wangwana, their vices and virtues—A Mgwana’s highest ambition—The + Wanyamwezi “the coming race.” + + +_Oct. 1874._—The foot-note at the bottom of this page will explain all +that need be known by the general reader in connection with the +geography of the Island of Zanzibar.[4] Any student who wishes to make +the island a special study will find books dealing most minutely with +the subject at all great libraries. Without venturing, therefore, into +more details than I have already given in ‘How I found Livingstone,’ I +shall devote this chapter to the Sultan of Zanzibar—Barghash bin Sayid— +the Arabs, the Wangwana, and the Wanyamwezi, with whose aid the objects +of the Anglo-American Expedition were attained. + +It is impossible not to feel a kindly interest in Prince Barghash, +and to wish him complete success in the reforms he is now striving +to bring about in his country. Here we see an Arab prince, educated +in the strictest school of Islam, and accustomed to regard the black +natives of Africa as the lawful prey of conquest or lust, and fair +objects of barter, suddenly turning round at the request of European +philanthropists and becoming one of the most active opponents of the +slave-trade—and the spectacle must necessarily create for him many +well-wishers and friends. + +[Illustration: SEYYID BARGHASH.] + +Though Prince Barghash has attributed to myself the visit of those ships +of war under Admiral Cumming, all who remember that period, and are +able, therefore, to trace events, will not fail to perceive that the +first decided steps taken by the British Government for the suppression +of the slave-trade on the east coast of Africa were due to the influence +of Livingstone’s constant appeals. Some of his letters, they will +remember, were carried by me to England, and the sensation caused by +them was such as to compel the British Government to send Sir Bartle +Frere in the _Enchantress_, as a special envoy to Zanzibar, to conclude +a treaty with Prince Barghash. When the Prince’s reluctance to sign +became known, the fleet under Admiral Cumming made its appearance before +Zanzibar, and by a process of gentle coercion, or rather quiet +demonstration, the signature of the Prince was at last obtained. One +thing more, however, still remained to be done before the treaty could +be carried into full effect, and that was to eradicate any feeling of +discontent or sullenness from his mind which might have been created by +the exhibition of force, and this I was happy to see, was effected by +the hospitable reception he enjoyed in England in 1875. There was a +difference in the manner and tone of the Sultan of 1874 and of 1877, +that I can only attribute to the greater knowledge he had gained of the +grandeur of the power which he had so nearly provoked. We must look upon +him now as a friendly and, I believe, sincere ally, and as a man willing +to do his utmost for the suppression of the slave-trade. + + ---------------------------------------------------------------- + + [_To face page 32._ + +[Illustration: + + VIEW FROM THE ROOF OF MR. AUGUSTUS SPARHAWK’S HOUSE. + + Frank Pocock. Frederick Barker. A Zanzibar boy. Edward Pocock. + Kalulu. + Bull-terrier “Jack.” “Bull.” Retriever “Nero.” Mastiff + “Captain.” Prize Mastiff “Castor.” + + (_From a photograph by the Author._) +] + + ---------------------------------------------------------------- + +The philanthropist having at last obtained such signal success with the +Prince, it is time the merchant should attempt something with him. The +Prince must be considered as an independent sovereign. His territories +include, besides the Zanzibar, Pemba, and Mafia islands, nearly 1000 +miles of coast, and extend probably over an area of 20,000 square +miles, with a population of half a million. The products of Zanzibar +have enriched many Europeans who traded in them. Cloves, cinnamon, +tortoise-shell, pepper, copal gum, ivory, orchilla weed, indiarubber, +and hides have been exported for years; but this catalogue does not +indicate a tithe of what might be produced by the judicious investment +of capital. Those intending to engage in commercial enterprise would +do well to study works on Mauritius, Natal, and the Portuguese +territories, if they wish to understand what these fine, fertile lands +are capable of. The cocoa-nut palm flourishes at Zanzibar and on the +mainland, the oil palm thrives luxuriantly in Pemba, and sugar-cane +will grow everywhere. Caoutchouc remains undeveloped in the maritime +belts of woodland, and the acacia forests, with their wealth of gums, +are nearly untouched. Rice is sown on the Rufiji banks, and yields +abundantly; cotton would thrive in any of the rich river bottoms; and +then there are, besides, the grains, millet, Indian corn, and many +others, the cultivation of which, though only in a languid way, the +natives understand. The cattle, coffee, and goats of the interior await +also the energetic man of capital and the commercial genius. + +First, however, the capitalist must find means of carriage, otherwise he +will never conquer African difficulties. Cutting roads through jungles, +and employing waggons, are mere temporary conveniences, requiring great +outlay, patience, and constant reinforcement of work and energies. +Almost as fast as the land is cleared, it is covered again—so prolific +is the soil—with tall wild grasses of the thickness of cane, and one +season is sufficient to undo the work of months of the pioneer. Cattle +die, tormented out of life by the flies or poisoned by the rank grasses; +natives perish from want of proper nourishment, and, while suffering +from fatigue and debility, are subject to many fatal diseases. + +A tramway is one thing that is needed for Africa. All other benefits +that can be conferred by contact with civilisation will follow in the +wake of the tramway, which will be an iron bond, never to be again +broken, between Africa and the more favoured continents. + +However energetic the small merchant may be, he can effect nothing +permanent for the good of a country that has neither roads nor navigable +rivers, whose climate is alike fatal to the starved hamal as it is to +the beast of burthen. The maritime belt must first be crossed by an iron +road, and another must tap the very centre of the rice-fields of the +Rufiji valley, in order to insure cheap, nutritious food in abundance. +To a company, however, which can raise the sum required to construct a +tramway, East Africa holds out special advantages. The Sultan himself +offers a handsome sum, five lakhs of dollars or, roughly, £100,000, and +there are rich Hindis at Zanzibar who, no doubt, would invest large +sums, and thus the company would become the principal merchants along +the line. The Sultan has also poor subjects enough who would be only too +glad of the opportunities thus afforded to work for reasonable pay, so +that very little fear need be entertained of lack of labour. Besides, +there are natives of the interior who, after two or three bold examples, +would soon be induced to apply for employment along the line. + +Those whom we call the Arabs of Zanzibar are either natives of Muscat +who have immigrated thither to seek their fortunes, or descendants of +the conquerors of the Portuguese. As the present Sultan calls himself +Barghash the son of Sayid, the son of Sultan, the son of Hamid, so all +Arabs, from the highest to the lowest of his subjects, are known by +their proper names—Ahmed, or Khamis, or Abdullah, as being the sons of +Mussoud, of Mustapha, or of Mohammed. Some of them boast of unusually +long pedigrees, and one or two I am acquainted with proclaimed +themselves of purer and more aristocratic descent than even the Sultan. + +The Arab conquerors who accompanied Seyyid Sultan, the grandfather of +the present Seyyid Barghash, took unto themselves, after the custom +of polygamists, wives of their own race according to their means, +and almost all of them purchased negro concubines, the result of +which we trace to-day in the various complexions of those who call +themselves Arabs. By this process of miscegenation the Arabs of the +latest migration are already rapidly losing their rich colour and fine +complexions, while the descendants of the Arabs of the first migration +are now deteriorated so much that on the coast they can scarcely be +distinguished from the Aborigines. While many of the descendants of +the old settlers who came in with Seyyid Sultan, still cling to their +homesteads, farms, and plantations, and acquire sufficient competence +by the cultivation of cloves, cinnamon, oranges, cocoa-nut palms, +sugar-cane, and other produce, a great number have emigrated into the +interior to form new colonies. Hamed Ibrahim has been eighteen years +in Karagwé, Muini Kheri has been thirty years in Ujiji, Sultan bin Ali +has been twenty-five years in Unyanyembé, Muini Dugumbi has been eight +years in Nyangwé, Juma Merikani has been seven years in Rua, and a +number of other prominent Arabs may be cited to prove that, though they +themselves firmly believe that they will return to the coast some day, +there are too many reasons for believing that they never will. + +None of the Arabs in the interior with whom I am acquainted ever +proceeded thither with the definite intention of colonisation. Some were +driven thither, by false hopes of acquiring rapid fortunes by the +purchase of slaves and ivory, and, perceiving that there were worse +places on earth than Africa, preferred to remain there, to facing the +odium of failure. Others borrowed large sums on trust from credulous +Hindis and Banyans, and having failed in the venture now prefer to +endure the exclusion to which they have subjected themselves, to +returning and being arrested by their enraged creditors. Others again +are not merely bankrupts, but persons who have fled the vengeance of the +law for political offences, as well as ordinary crimes. There are many +who are in better circumstances in the interior than they would be on +their own island of Zanzibar. Some of them have hundreds of slaves, and +he would be a very poor Arab indeed who possessed only ten. These +slaves, under their masters’ direction have constructed roomy, +comfortable, flat-roofed houses, or lofty cool huts, which, in the +dangerous and hostile districts, are surrounded by strong stockades. +Thus, at Unyanyembé there are sixty or seventy large stockades enclosing +the owner’s house and storerooms, as well as the numerous huts of his +slaves. Ujiji, again, may be described as a long straggling village, +formed by the large tembes of the Arabs; and Nyangwé is another +settlement similar to Ujiji. Many of the Arabs settled in the pastoral +districts possess large herds of cattle and extensive fields where rice, +wheat, Indian corn, and millet are cultivated, besides sugar-cane and +onions, and the fruit trees of Zanzibar—the orange, lemon, papaw, mango, +and pomegranate—are now being gradually introduced. + +The Arabs of Zanzibar, whether from more frequent intercourse with +Europeans or from other causes, are undoubtedly the best of their race. +More easily amenable to reason than those of Egypt, or the shy, +reserved, and bigoted fanatics of Arabia, they offer no obstacles to the +European traveller, but are sociable, frank, good-natured, and +hospitable. In business they are keen traders, and of course will exact +the highest percentage of profit out of the unsuspecting European if +they are permitted. They are staunch friends and desperate haters. Blood +is seldom satisfied without blood, unless extraordinary sacrifices are +made. + +The conduct of an Arab gentleman is perfect. Indelicate matters are +never broached before strangers; impertinence is hushed instantly by the +elders, and rudeness is never permitted. Naturally, they have the vices +of their education, blood, and race, but these moral blemishes are by +their traditional excellence of breeding seldom obtruded upon the +observation of the stranger. + +After the Arabs let us regard the Wangwana, just as in Europe, after +studying the condition and character of the middle classes, we might +turn to reflect upon that of the labouring population. + +Of the Wangwana there will be much written in the following pages, the +outcome of careful study and a long experience of them. Few explorers +have recorded anything greatly to their credit. One of them lately said +that the negro knows neither love nor affection; another that he is +simply the “link” between the simian and the European. Another says, +“The wretches take a trouble and display an ingenuity in opposition and +disobedience, in perversity, annoyance, and villainy, which rightly +directed would make them invaluable.” Almost all have been severe in +their strictures on the negro of Zanzibar. + +The origin of the Mgwana or Freeman may be briefly told. When the Arabs +conquered Zanzibar, they found the black subjects of the Portuguese to +be of two classes, Watuma (slaves) and Wangwana (freemen). The Freemen +were very probably black people who had either purchased their freedom +by the savings of their industry or were made free upon the death of +their masters; these begat children who, being born out of bondage, were +likewise free. Arab rulers, in classifying their subjects, perceived no +great difference in physique or general appearance between those who +were slaves and those who were free, both classes belonging originally +to the same negro tribes of the interior. Thus, when any of these were +brought before the authorities convicted of offences, the question +naturally asked was, “Are you a Mtuma, a slave, or a Mgwana, a freeman?” +A repetition of these questions through a long course of years +established the custom of identifying the two classes of Zanzibar +negroes as Watuma—slaves—and Wangwana—freemen. Later, however, came a +new distinction, and the word Watuma, except in special and local cases, +was dropped, for, with the advent of the free native traders direct from +the mainland, and the increase of traffic between Zanzibar and the +continent, as well as out of courtesy to their own slaves, the Arabs +began to ask the black stranger, “Are you Mgwana, a freeman, or Mshensi, +a pagan?” In disputes among themselves the question is still asked, “Are +you a slave or a freeman?” but when strangers are involved, it is +always, “Are you Mgwana, a freeman or a native of Zanzibar, or a +Mshensi, a pagan or an uncircumcised native of the mainland?” + +It will be thus seen that the word “Wangwana” is now a generic, widely +used, and well understood for the coloured natives of Zanzibar. When, +therefore, the term is employed in this book, it includes alike both the +slaves and the freemen of Zanzibar. + +After nearly seven years’ acquaintance with the Wangwana, I have come to +perceive that they represent in their character much of the disposition +of a large portion of the negro tribes of the continent. I find them +capable of great love and affection, and possessed of gratitude and +other noble traits of human nature; I know too, that they can be made +good, obedient servants, that many are clever, honest, industrious, +docile, enterprising, brave and moral; that they are, in short, equal to +any other race or colour on the face of the globe, in all the attributes +of manhood. But to be able to perceive their worth, the traveller must +bring an unprejudiced judgment, a clear, fresh, and patient observation, +and must forget that lofty standard of excellence upon which he and his +race pride themselves, before he can fairly appreciate the capabilities +of the Zanzibar negro. The traveller should not forget the origin of his +own race, the condition of the Briton before St. Augustine visited his +country, but should rather recall to mind the first state of the “wild +Caledonian,” and the original circumstances and surroundings of +Primitive Man. + +Louis Figuier says: “However much our pride may suffer by the idea, we +must confess that, at the earliest period of his existence, man could +have been but little distinguished from the brute. His pillow was a +stone, his roof was the shadow of a wide-spreading tree, or some dark +cavern, which also served as a refuge against wild beasts.” + +And again, in his chapter on the ‘Iron Epoch,’ he notes how “From the +day when iron was first placed at man’s disposal, civilisation began to +make its longest strides, and as the working of this metal improved, so +the dominion of man—his faculties and his intellect—real activity— +likewise enlarged in the same proportion.” And at the end of a most +admirable book, he counsels the traveller, “Look to it, less thy pride +cause thee to forget thy own origin.” + +Being, I hope, free from prejudices of cast, colour, race, or +nationality, and endeavouring to pass what I believe to be a just +judgment upon the negroes of Zanzibar, I find that they are a people +just emerged into the Iron Epoch, and now thrust forcibly under the +notice of nations who have left them behind by the improvements of over +4000 years. They possess beyond doubt all the vices of a people still +fixed deeply in barbarism, but they understand to the full what and how +low such a state is; it is, therefore, a duty imposed upon us by the +religion we profess, and by the sacred command of the Son of God, to +help them out of the deplorable state they are now in. At any rate, +before we begin to hope for the improvement of races so long benighted, +let us leave off this impotent bewailing of their vices, and endeavour +to discover some of the virtues they possess as men, for it must be by +the aid of their virtues, and not by their vices, that the missionary of +civilisation can ever hope to assist them. While, therefore, recording +my experiences through Africa, I shall have frequent occasion to dilate +upon both the vices and the virtues of the Wangwana as well as of the +natives of the interior, but it will not be with a view to foster, on +the one hand, the self-deception of the civilised, or the absurd +prejudices created by centuries of superior advantages, nor, on the +other hand, to lead men astray by taking a too bright view of things. I +shall write solely and simply with a strong desire to enable all +interested in the negro to understand his mental and moral powers +rightly. + +[Illustration: + + COXSWAIN ULEDI, AND MANWA SERA, CHIEF CAPTAIN. + (_From a photograph._) +] + +The Mgwana or native of Zanzibar, who dwells at Ngambu, is a happy, +jovial soul. He is fond of company, therefore sociable. His vanity +causes him to be ambitious of possessing several white shirts and +bright red caps, and since he has observed that his superiors use +walking-sticks, he is almost certain, if he is rich enough to own +a white shirt and a red cap, to be seen sporting a light cane. The +very poorest of his class hire themselves, or are hired out by their +masters, to carry bales, boxes, and goods, from the custom-house to +the boat, or store-room, or _vice versâ_, and as a general beast of +burden, for camels are few, and of wheeled vehicles there are none. +Those who prefer light work and have good characters may obtain +positions as doorkeepers or house-servants, or for washing copal and +drying hides for the European merchants. Others, trained as mechanics, +obtain a livelihood by repairing muskets, manufacturing knives, belts, +and accoutrements, or by carpentering and ship-building. There is +a class of Wangwana living at Ngambu, in the small gardens of the +interior of the island, and along the coast of the mainland, who prefer +the wandering life offered to them by Arab traders and scientific +expeditions to being subject to the caprice, tyranny, and meanness of +small estate proprietors. They complain that the Arabs are haughty, +grasping, and exacting; that they abuse them and pay them badly; that, +if they seek justice at the hands of the Cadis, judgment, somehow, +always goes against them. They say, on the other hand, that, when +accompanying trading or other expeditions, they are well paid, have +abundance to eat, and comparatively but little work. + +But the highest ambition of a Mgwana is to have a house and _shamba_ +or garden of his own. The shamba may only be large enough to possess +a dozen cocoa-nut-trees, a dozen rows, thirty yards long, of cassava +shrubs, half-a-dozen banana plants, half-a-dozen rows planted with +sweet-potatoes, and two or three rows of ground-nuts; nevertheless, +this would be _his_ garden or estate, and therefore of priceless +estimation. At one corner of this tiny but most complete estate, he +would erect his house, with an exclusive courtyard, which he would +stock with half-a-dozen chickens and one goat, which last he would be +sure to spoil with kindness. Three hundred dollars would probably be +the total value of house, garden, chickens, goat, domestic utensils, +tools, and all, and yet, with this property, he would be twice married, +the father of four or five children, and even the owner of a domestic +slave or two. If such be his condition, he will snap his fingers at the +cruel world, and will imagine himself as prosperous, well-to-do, and +comfortable as any Arab in Zanzibar. But he is seldom spoiled by this +great prosperity. He is a sociable, kindly-disposed man, and his frank, +hearty nature has won for him hosts of friends. Beer made of fermented +mtama or Indian corn, wine of the palm or cocoa-nut milk, or the +stronger _eau de vie_ sold by the Goanese in the town at twenty-five +cents the bottle, serve to diffuse and cement these friendships. + +It is to the Wangwana that Livingstone, Burton, Speke and Grant owe, in +great part, the accomplishment of their objects, and while in the employ +of these explorers, this race rendered great services to geography. From +a considerable distance north of the Equator down to the Zambezi and +across Africa to Benguella and the mouth of the Livingstone, they have +made their names familiar to tribes who, but for the Wangwana, would +have remained ignorant to this day of all things outside their own +settlements. They possess with many weaknesses, many fine qualities. +While very superstitious, easily inclined to despair, and readily giving +ear to vague, unreasonable fears, they may also, by judicious +management, be induced to laugh at their own credulity and roused to a +courageous attitude; to endure like Stoics, and fight like heroes. It +will depend altogether upon the leader of a body of such men whether +their worst or best qualities shall prevail. + +There is another class coming into notice from the interior of Africa, +who, though of a sterner nature, will, I am convinced, as they are +better known, become greater favourites than the Wangwana. I refer to +the Wanyamwezi, or the natives of Unyamwezi, and the Wasukuma, or the +people of Usukuma. Naturally, being a grade less advanced towards +civilization than the Wangwana, they are not so amenable to discipline +as the latter. While explorers would in the present state of +acquaintance prefer the Wangwana as escort, the Wanyamwezi are far +superior as porters. Their greater freedom from diseases, their great +strength and endurance, the pride they take in their profession of +porters, prove them born travellers of incalculable use and benefit to +Africa. If kindly treated, I do not know more docile and good-natured +creatures. But the discipline must not be strict, until they have had +opportunities of understanding their employer’s nature and habits, and +of comprehending that discipline does not mean abuse. Their courage they +have repeatedly proved under their Napoleonic leader Mirambo, in many a +well-fought field against the Arabs and Wangwana. Their skill in war, +tenacity of purpose, and determination to defend the rights of their +elected chief against foreigners, have furnished themes for song to the +bards of Central Africa. Tippu-Tib has led 500 of these men through +distant Bisa and the plains of Rua: Juma Merikani has been escorted by +them into the heart of the regions beyond the Tanganika: Khamis bin +Adallah commanded a large force of them in his search for ivory in the +intra-lake countries. The English discoverer of Lake Tanganika and, +finally, I myself have been equally indebted to them, both on my first +and last expeditions. + +[Illustration: NEW CHURCH ON SITE OF OLD SLAVE MARKET, ZANZIBAR.] + +From their numbers, and their many excellent qualities, I am led to +think that the day will come when they will be regarded as something +better than the “best of pagazis;” that they will be esteemed as the +good subjects of some enlightened power, who will train them up as the +nucleus of a great African nation, as powerful for the good of the Dark +Continent, as they threaten, under the present condition of things, to +be for its evil. + +----- + +# 4: + + “The fort of Zanzibar is in S. lat. 6° 9′ 36″ and E. long. 39° 14′ + 33″.”—_East African Pilot._ + + + + + CHAPTER III. + +Organisation of the Expedition—The _shauri_—“Poli, poli”—Msenna’s + successful imposture—Black sheep in the flock—The _Lady Alice_ + remodelled—Sewing a British flag—Tarya Topan, the millionaire—Signing + the covenants—“On the word of a white man”—Saying good-bye—Loading the + dhows—Vale!—Towards the Dark Continent. + + +_Nov. 1874._—It is a most sobering employment, the organizing of an +African expedition. You are constantly engaged, mind and body; now in +casting up accounts, and now travelling to and fro hurriedly to receive +messengers, inspecting purchases, bargaining with keen-eyed, relentless +Hindi merchants, writing memoranda, haggling over extortionate prices, +packing up a multitude of small utilities, pondering upon your lists of +articles, wanted, purchased, and unpurchased, groping about in the +recesses of a highly exercised imagination for what you ought to +purchase, and cannot do without, superintending, arranging, assorting, +and packing. And this under a temperature of 95° Fahr. + +In the midst of all this terrific, high-pressure exercise arrives the +first batch of applicants for employment. For it has long ago been +bruited abroad that I am ready to enlist all able-bodied human beings +willing to carry a load, be they Wangwana or Wanyamwezi, Wagalla, +Somali, Wasagara, Wayow, Wajindo, Wagogo, or Wazaramo. Ever since I +arrived at Zanzibar, since which date I have been absent exploring the +Rufiji river, I have had a very good reputation among Arabs and +Wangwana. They have not forgotten that it was I who found the “old white +man”—Livingstone—in Ujiji, nor that liberality and kindness to my men +were my special characteristics. They have also, with the true Oriental +spirit of exaggeration, proclaimed that I was but a few months absent; +and that, after this brief excursion, they returned to their homes to +enjoy the liberal pay awarded them, feeling rather the better for the +trip than otherwise. This unsought-for reputation brought on me the +laborious task of selecting proper men out of an extraordinary number of +applicants. Almost all the cripples, the palsied, the consumptive, and +the superannuated that Zanzibar could furnish applied to be enrolled on +the muster list, but these, subjected to a searching examination, were +refused. Hard upon their heels came all the roughs, rowdies, and +ruffians of the island, and these, schooled by their fellows, were not +so easily detected. Slaves were also refused, as being too much under +the influence and instruction of their masters, and yet many were +engaged of whose character I had not the least conception until, months +afterwards, I learned from their quarrels in the camp how I had been +misled by the clever rogues. + +All those who bore good characters on the Search Expedition, and had +been despatched to the assistance of Livingstone, in 1872, were employed +without delay. Out of these the chiefs were selected: these were, Manwa +Sera, Chowpereh, Wadi Rehani, Kachéché, Zaidi, Chakanja, Farjalla, Wadi +Safeni, Bukhet, Mabruki Manyapara, Mabruki Unyanyembé, Muini Pembe, +Ferahan, Bwana Muri, Khamseen, Mabruki Speke, Simba, Gardner, Hamoidah, +Zaidi Mganda, and Ulimengo. + +But before real business could be entered into, the customary present +had to be distributed to each. + +Ulimengo, or the _World_, the incorrigible joker and hunter-in-chief +of the Search and Livingstone’s expeditions, received a gold ring to +encircle one of his thick black fingers, and a silver chain to suspend +round his neck, which caused his mouth to expand gratefully. Rojab, who +was soon reminded of the unlucky accident with Livingstone’s Journal in +the muddy waters of the Mukondokwa, was endowed with a munificent gift +which won him over to my service beyond fear of bribery. Manwa Sera, +the redoubtable ambassador of Speke and Grant to Manwa Sera—the royal +fugitive distressed by the hot pursuit of the Arabs—the leader of my +second caravan in 1871, the chief of the party sent to Unyamyembé to +the assistance of Livingstone in 1872, and now appointed Chief Captain +of the Anglo-American Expedition, was rendered temporarily speechless +with gratitude because I had suspended a splendid jet necklace from +his neck, and ringed one of his fingers with a heavy seal ring. The +historical Mabruki Speke, called by one of my predecessors “Mabruki +the Bullheaded,” who has each time in the employ of European explorers +conducted himself with matchless fidelity, and is distinguished for +his hawk-eyed guardianship of their property and interests, exhibited +extravagant rapture at the testimonial for past services bestowed on +him; while the valiant, faithful, sturdy Chowpereh, the man of manifold +virtues, was rewarded for his former worth with a silver dagger, gilt +bracelet, and earrings. His wife was also made happy with a suitable +gift, and the heir of the Chowpereh estate, a child of two years, was, +at his father’s urgent request, rendered safe by vaccine from any +attack of the smallpox during our absence in Africa. + +All great enterprises require a preliminary deliberative palaver, or, as +the Wangwana call it, “Shauri.” In East Africa particularly shauris are +much in vogue. Precipitate, energetic action is dreaded. “Poli, poli!” +or “Gently!” is the warning word of caution given. + +The chiefs arranged themselves in a semi-circle on the day of the +shauri, and I sat _à la Turque_ fronting them. “What is it, my friends? +Speak your minds.” They hummed and hawed, looked at one another, as if +on their neighbours’ faces they might discover the purport of their +coming, but, all hesitating to begin, finally broke down in a loud +laugh. + +Manwa Sera, always grave, unless hit dexterously with a joke, hereupon +affected anger, and said, “_You_ speak, son of Safeni; verily we act +like children! Will the master eat us?” + +Wadi, son of Safeni, thus encouraged to perform the spokesman’s duty, +hesitates exactly two seconds, and then ventures with diplomatic +blandness and _graciosity_. “We have come, master, with words. Listen. +It is well we should know every step before we leap. A traveller +journeys not without knowing whither he wanders. We have come to +ascertain what lands you are bound for.” + +Imitating the son of Safeni’s gracious blandness, and his low tone of +voice, as though the information about to be imparted to the intensely +interested and eagerly listening group were too important to speak it +loud, I described in brief outline the prospective journey, in broken +Kiswahili. As country after country was mentioned of which they had +hitherto but vague ideas, and river after river, lake after lake named, +all of which I hoped with their trusty aid to explore carefully, various +ejaculations expressive of wonder and joy, mixed with a little alarm, +broke from their lips, but when I concluded, each of the group drew a +long breath, and almost simultaneously they uttered admiringly, “Ah, +fellows, this is a journey worthy to be called a journey!” + +“But, master,” said they, after recovering themselves, “this long +journey will take years to travel—six, nine, or ten years.” “Nonsense,” +I replied. “Six, nine, or ten years! What can you be thinking of? It +takes the Arabs nearly three years to reach Ujiji, it is true, but, if +you remember, I was but sixteen months from Zanzibar to Ujiji and back. +Is it not so?” “Ay, true,” they answered. “Very well, and I assure you I +have not come to live in Africa. I have come simply to see those rivers +and lakes, and after I have seen them to return home.” “Ah, but you know +the old master, Livingstone,” rejoined Hamoidah, who had followed the +veteran traveller nearly eight years, “said he was only going for two +years, and you know that he never came back, but died there.” “That is +true enough, but if I were quick on the first journey, am I likely to be +slow now? Am I much older than I was then? Am I less strong? Do I not +know what travel is now? Was I not like a boy then, and am I not now a +man? You remember while going to Ujiji I permitted the guide to show the +way, but when we were returning who was it that led the way? Was it not +I, by means of that little compass which could not lie like the guide?” +“Ay, true, master, true every word.” “Very well, then, let us finish the +shauri, and go. To-morrow we will make a proper agreement before the +consul;” and in Scriptural phrase, “they forthwith arose and did as they +were commanded.” + +Upon receiving information from the coast that there was a very large +number of men waiting for me, I became still more fastidious in my +choice. But with all my care and gift of selection, I was mortified to +discover that many faces and characters had baffled the rigorous +scrutiny to which I had subjected them, and that some scores of the most +abandoned and depraved characters on the island had been enlisted by me +on the Expedition. One man, named Msenna, imposed upon me by assuming +such a contrite penitent look, and weeping such copious tears, when I +informed him that he had too bad a character to be employed, that my +good-nature was prevailed upon to accept his services, upon the +understanding that, if he indulged his murderous propensities in Africa, +I should return him chained the entire distance to Zanzibar, to be dealt +with by his Prince. + +The defence of his conduct was something like this: “Bwana,[5] you see +these scars on my head and neck. They are from the sabres of the +Seyyid’s soldiers. Demand of any, Arab or Freeman, why I received them. +They will tell you they were inflicted for rebellion against Prince +Majid at Melinda. The Arabs hate me because I joined the coast men +against their authority. Can any one charge me with worse deeds?”— +appealing to the Wangwana. All were silent. “I am a free-born son of the +coast, and never did any man or woman who did not molest me the smallest +injury. Allah be praised! I am strong, healthy, and contented with my +lot, and if you take me you will never have cause to regret it. If you +fear that I shall desert, give me no advance pay, but pay me when I come +back to Zanzibar according to my deserts.” + +This appeal was delivered with impassioned accents and lively gestures, +which produced a great effect upon the mixed audience who listened to +him, and gathering from their faces more than from my own convictions, +that poor scarred Msenna was a kind of political refugee, much abused +and very much misunderstood, his services were accepted, and as he +appeared to be an influential man, he was appointed a junior captain +with prospects of promotion and higher pay. + +Subsequently, however, on the shores of Lake Victoria it was discovered— +for in Africa people are uncommonly communicative—that Msenna had +murdered eight people, that he was a ruffian of the worst sort, and that +the merchants of Zanzibar had experienced great relief when they heard +that the notorious Msenna was about to bid farewell for a season to the +scene of so many of his wild exploits. Msenna was only one of many of +his kind, but I have given in detail the manner of his enlistment that +my position may be better understood. + +Soon after my return from the Rufiji delta, the B. I. S. N. Company’s +steamer _Euphrates_ had brought the sectional exploring boat, _Lady +Alice_, to Zanzibar. Exceedingly anxious for the portability of the +sections, I had them at once, weighed, and great were my vexation and +astonishment when I discovered that four of the sections weighed 280 +lbs. each, and that one weighed 310 lbs.! She was, it is true, a marvel +of workmanship, and an exquisite model of a boat, such, indeed, as few +builders in England or America could rival, but in her present condition +her carriage through the jungles would necessitate a pioneer force a +hundred strong to clear the impediments and obstacles on the road. + +While almost plunged into despair, I was informed that there was a very +clever English carpenter, named Ferris, about to leave by the +_Euphrates_ for England. Mr. Ferris was quickly made acquainted with my +difficulty, and for a “consideration” promised, after a personal +inspection of the boat, to defer his departure one month, and to do his +utmost to make the sections portable without lessening her efficiency. +When the boat was exhibited to him, I explained that the narrowness of +the path would make her portage absolutely impossible, for since the +path was often only 18 inches wide in Africa, and hemmed in on each side +with dense jungle, any package 6 feet broad could by no means be +conveyed along it. It was therefore necessary that each of the four +sections should be subdivided, by which means I should obtain eight +portable sections, each three feet wide, and that an afterpiece could +easily be made by myself upon arriving at the lakes. Mr. Ferris, +perfectly comprehending his instructions, and with the aid given by the +young Pococks, furnished me within two weeks with the newly modelled +_Lady Alice_. But it must be understood that her success as a safe +exploring boat is due to the conscientious workmanship which the honest +and thoroughly reliable boat-builder of Teddington lavished upon her. + +The pride which the young Pococks and Frederick Barker entertained in +respect to their new duties, in the new and novel career of adventure +now opening before them, did not seem to damp that honourable love of +country which every Englishman abroad exhibits, and is determined to +gratify if he can. Their acquaintance with the shipwright, Mr. Ferris, +who had evidently assisted at the ceremony of planting the British flag +at the mast-head of many a new and noble structure, destined to plough +strange seas, reminded them, during one of the social evening hours +which they spent together, that it would be a fine thing if they might +also be permitted to hoist a miniature emblem of their nationality over +their tent in camp, and over their canoes on the lakes and rivers of +Africa. + +[Illustration: A MAP OF THE ROUTE OF STANLEY “THROUGH THE DARK +CONTINENT” 1874-1877, AS WELL AS OF THE EMIN PASHA RELIEF EXPEDITION +THROUGH AFRICA.]] + +The Pococks and Barker accordingly, a few days before our departure, +formed themselves into a deputation, and Frank, who was the spokesman, +surprised me with the following request:— + +“My brother, Fred Barker, and myself, Sir, have been emboldened to ask +you a favour, which no doubt you will think strange and wrong. But we +cannot forget, wherever we go, that we are Englishmen, and we should +like to be permitted to take something with us that will always remind +us of who we are, and be a comfort to us, even in the darkest hours of +trouble, perhaps even encourage us to perform our duties better. We have +come to ask you, Sir, if we may be permitted to make a small British +flag to hoist above our tent, and over our canoe on the lakes.” + +“My dear fellow,” I replied, “you surprise me by imagining for one +moment that I could possibly refuse you. This is not an American +Government or a British Government Expedition, and I have neither the +power nor the disposition to withhold my sanction to your request. If it +will be any pleasure to you, by all means take it, I cannot have the +slightest objection to such an innocent proceeding. All that I shall +require from you in Africa is such service as you can give, and if you +prove yourselves the highly recommended lads you are, I shall not +interfere with any innocent pleasure you may feel yourselves at liberty +to take. If one British flag is not enough, you may take a thousand so +far as I am concerned.” + +“Thank you kindly, Sir. You may rest assured that we have entered your +service with the intention to remember what my old father and our +friends strictly enjoined us to do, which was to stick to you through +thick and thin.” + +The young Englishmen were observed soon afterwards busy sewing a tiny +flag, about 18 inches square, out of some bunting, and after a pattern +that Mr. Ferris procured for them. Whether the complicated colours, red, +blue, white, were arranged properly, or the crosses according to the +standard, I am ignorant. But I observed that, while they were occupied +in the task, they were very much interested, and that, when it was +finished, though it was only the size of a lady’s handkerchief, they +manifested much delight. + +Zanzibar possesses its “millionaires” also, and one of the richest +merchants in the town is Tarya Topan—a self-made man of Hindustan, +singularly honest and just; a devout Muslim, yet liberal in his ideas; a +sharp business man, yet charitable. I made Tarya’s acquaintance in 1871, +and the righteous manner in which he then dealt by me caused me now to +proceed to him again for the same purpose as formerly, viz. to sell me +cloth, cottons, and kanikis, at reasonable prices, and accept my bills +on Mr. Joseph M. Levy, of the _Daily Telegraph_. + +Honest Jetta, as formerly, was employed as my vakeel to purchase the +various coloured cloths, fine and coarse, for chiefs and their wives, as +well as a large assortment of beads of all sizes, forms, and colours, +besides a large quantity of brass wire ⅙ inch in thickness. + +[Illustration: TARYA TOPAN.] + +The total weight of goods, cloth, beads, wire, stores, medicine, +bedding, clothes, tents, ammunition, boat, oars, rudder and thwarts, +instruments and stationery, photographic apparatus, dry plates, and +miscellaneous articles too numerous to mention, weighed a little over +18,000 lbs., or rather more than 8 tons divided as nearly as possible +into loads weighing 60 lbs. each, and requiring therefore the carrying +capacity of 300 men. The loads were made more than usually light, in +order that we might travel with celerity, and not fatigue the people. + +But still further to provide against sickness and weakness, a +supernumerary force of forty men were recruited at Bagamoyo, Konduchi, +and the Rufiji delta, who were required to assemble in the neighbourhood +of the first-mentioned place. Two hundred and thirty men, consisting of +Wangwana, Wanyamwezi, and coast people from Mombasa, Tanga, and Saadani, +affixed their marks opposite their names before the American Consul, for +wages varying from 2 to 10 dollars per month, and rations according to +their capacity, strength, and intelligence, with the understanding that +they were to serve for two years, or until such time as their services +should be no longer required in Africa, and were to perform their duties +cheerfully and promptly. + +On the day of “signing” the contract, each adult received an advance of +20 dollars, or four months’ pay, and each youth 10 dollars, or four +months’ pay. Ration money was also paid them from the time of first +enlistment, at the rate of 1 dollar per week, up to the day we left the +coast. These conditions were, however, not entered into without +requiring the presence of each person’s friends and relatives to witness +and sanction the engagements, so that on this day the parents, uncles, +cousins, and near and distant relatives, wives and children, were in +attendance, and crowded every room and court at the American Consulate. +The entire amount disbursed in cash for advances of pay and rations at +Zanzibar and Bagamoyo was 6260 dollars, or nearly £1300. + +The obligations, however, were not all on one side. Besides the due +payment to them of their wages on demand, and selling them such cloths +as they would require for dress while in Africa at reasonable prices, +which would be a little above cost price at Zanzibar, I was compelled to +bind myself to them, on the word of an “honourable white man,” to +observe the following conditions as to conduct towards them:— + +1st. That I should treat them kindly, and be patient with them. + +2nd. That in case of sickness, I should dose them with proper medicine, +and see them nourished with the best the country afforded. That if +patients were unable to proceed, they should not be abandoned to the +mercy of heathen, but were to be conveyed to such places as should be +considered safe for their persons and their freedom, and convenient for +their return, on convalescence, to their friends. That with all patients +thus left behind, I should leave sufficient cloth or beads to pay the +native practitioner for his professional attendance, and for the support +of the patient. + +3rd. That in cases of disagreement between man and man, I should judge +justly, honestly, and impartially. That I should do my utmost to prevent +the ill-treatment of the weak by the strong, and never permit the +oppression of those unable to resist. + +4th. That I should act like a “father and mother” to them, and to the +best of my ability resist all violence offered to them by “savage +natives, and roving and lawless banditti.” + +They also promised, upon the above conditions being fulfilled, that they +would do their duty like men, would honour and respect my instructions, +giving me their united support and endeavouring to the best of their +ability to be faithful servants, and would never desert me in the hour +of need. In short, that they would behave like good and loyal children, +and “may the blessing of God,” said they, “be upon us.” + +How we kept this bond of mutual trust and forbearance, and adhered to +each other in the hours of sore trouble and distress, faithfully +performing our duties to one another: how we encouraged and sustained, +cheered and assisted one another, and in all the services and good +offices due from man to man, and comrade to comrade, from chief to +servants and from servants to chief, how we kept our plighted word of +promise, will be best seen in the following chapters, which record the +strange and eventful story of our journeys. + +_Nov. 12._—The fleet of six Arab vessels which were to bear us away to +the west across the Zanzibar Sea were at last brought to anchor a few +yards from the wharf of the American Consulate. The day of farewell +calls had passed, and ceremoniously we had bidden adieu to the +hospitable and courteous Acting British Consul, Captain William F. +Prideaux, and his accomplished wife,[6] to friendly and amiable Dr. +James Robb and Mrs. Robb, to Dr. Riddle, and the German and French +Consuls. Seyyid Barghash bin Sayid received my thanks for his courtesy, +and his never-failing kindness, and my sincere wishes for his lasting +prosperity and happiness. Many kind Arab and Hindi friends also received +my parting salaams. Grave Sheikh Hashid expressed a hope that we should +meet again on earth, Captain Bukhet, the pilot, wished me a quick and +safe return from the dread lands of the heathen, and the princely Indian +merchant, Tarya Topan, expressed his sincere hopes that I should be +prosperous in my undertaking, and come back crowned with success. + +The young Englishmen, whose charming, simple manners and manly bearing +had won for them a number of true friends at Zanzibar, were not without +many hearty well-wishers, and received cheerful farewells from numerous +friends. + +At the end of Ramadan, the month of abstinence of Mohammedans, the +Wangwana, true to their promise that they would be ready, appeared with +their bundles and mats, and proceeded to take their places in the +vessels waiting for them. As their friends had mustered in strong force +to take their final parting and bestow last useful hints and prudent +advice, it was impossible to distinguish among the miscellaneous crowd +on the beach those who were present, or to discover who were absent. The +greater part of my company were in high spirits, and from this I +inferred that they had not forgotten to fortify themselves with +stimulants against the critical moment of departure. + +As fast as each dhow was reported to be filled, the _Nakhuda_ or Captain +was directed to anchor further off shore to await the signal to sail. By +5 P.M. of the 12th of November, 224 men had responded to their names, +and five of the Arab vessels, laden with the _personnel_, cattle, and +_matériel_ of the expedition, were impatiently waiting with anchor +heaved short, the word of command. One vessel still lay close ashore, to +convey myself, and Frederick Barker—in charge of the personal servants— +our baggage, and dogs. Turning round to my constant and well-tried +friend, Mr. Augustus Sparhawk, I fervently clasped his hand, and with a +full heart though halting tongue, attempted to pour out my feelings of +gratitude for his kindness and long sustained hospitality, my keen +regret at parting and hopes of meeting again. But I was too agitated to +be eloquent, and all my forced gaiety could not carry me through the +ordeal. So we parted in almost total silence, but I felt assured that he +would judge my emotions by his own feelings, and would accept the lame +efforts at their expression as though he had listened to the most +voluble rehearsal of thanks. + +A wave of my hand, and the anchors were hove up and laid within ship, +and then, hoisting our lateen sails, we bore away westward to launch +ourselves into the arms of Fortune. Many wavings of kerchiefs and hats, +parting signals from white hands, and last long looks at friendly +white faces, final confused impressions of the grouped figures of +our well-wishers, and then the evening breeze had swept us away into +mid-sea beyond reach of recognition. + +The parting is over! We have said our last words for years, perhaps for +ever, to kindly men! The sun sinks fast to the western horizon, and +gloomy is the twilight that now deepens and darkens. Thick shadows fall +upon the distant land and over the silent sea, and oppress our +throbbing, regretful hearts, as we glide away through the dying light +towards The Dark Continent. + +[Illustration: “TOWARDS THE DARK CONTINENT.”] + +----- + +# 5: + + “Master.” + +# 6: + + No lady was ever more universally respected at Zanzibar than Mrs. + Prideaux, and no death ever more sincerely regretted by the European + community than was hers. + + + + + CHAPTER IV. + +Bagamoyo—Taming the dark brother—Bagamoyo in a ferment—An exciting + scene—The disturbance quelled—The Universities Mission, its origin, + history, decline and present condition—The Rev. Edward Steere—Notre + Dame de Bagamoyo—Westward ho!—In marching order—_Sub Jove fervido_— + Crossing the Kingani—The stolen women. + + +Bagamoyo, Whindi, and Saadani, East African villages on the mainland +near the sea, offer exceptionally good starting-points for the +unexplored interior, for many reasons. First. Because the explorers and +the people are strangers to one another, and a slight knowledge of their +power of mutual cohesion, habits, and relative influences, is desirable +before launching out into the wilds. Second. The natives of those +maritime villages are accustomed to have their normally languid and +peaceful life invaded and startled by the bustle of foreigners arriving +by sea and from the continent, Arab traders bound for the interior and +lengthy native caravans from Unyamwezi. Third. An expedition not fully +recruited to its necessary strength at Zanzibar may be easily reinforced +at these ports by volunteers from native caravans who are desirous of +returning to their homes, and who, day by day, along the route, will +straggle in towards it until the list is full and complete. + +These, then, were the principal reasons for my selection of Bagamoyo as +the initial point, from whence, after inoculating the various untamed +spirits who had now enlisted under me, with a respect for order and +discipline, obedience and system (the true prophylactic against failure) +I should be free to rove where discoveries would be fruitful. This +“inoculation” will not, however, commence until after a study of their +natures, their deficiencies and weaknesses. The exhibition of force, at +this juncture, would be dangerous to our prospects, and all means +gentle, patient, and persuasive, have, therefore, to be tried first. +Whatever deficiencies, weaknesses, and foibles the people may develop +must be so manipulated that, while they are learning the novel lesson of +obedience, they may only just suspect that behind all this there lies +the strong unbending force which will eventually make men of them, wild +things though they now are. For the first few months, then, forbearance +is absolutely necessary. The dark brother, wild as a colt, chafing, +restless, ferociously impulsive, superstitiously timid, liable to +furious demonstrations, suspicious and unreasonable, must be forgiven +seventy times seven, until the period of probation is passed. Long +before this period is over, such temperate conduct will have enlisted a +powerful force, attached to their leader by bonds of good-will and +respect, even, perhaps, of love and devotion, and by the moral influence +of their support even the most incorrigible _mauvais sujet_ will be +restrained, and finally conquered. + +Many things will transpire during the first few weeks which will make +the explorer sigh and wish that he had not ventured upon what promises +to be a hopeless task. Maddened by strong drinks and drugs, jealous of +their status in the camp, regretting also, like ourselves, that they had +been so hasty in undertaking the journey, brooding over the joys of the +island fast receding from them, anxious for the future, susceptible to +the first and every influence that assails them with temptations to +return to the coast, these people require to be treated with the utmost +kindness and consideration, and the intending traveller must be wisely +circumspect in his intercourse with them. From my former experiences of +such men, it will be readily believed that I had prepared for the scenes +which I knew were to follow at Bagamoyo, and that all my precautions had +been taken. + +_Nov. 13._—Upon landing at Bagamoyo on the morning of the 13th, we +marched to occupy the old house where we had stayed so long to prepare +the First Expedition. The goods were stored, the dogs chained up, the +riding asses tethered, the rifles arrayed in the store-room, and the +sectional boat laid under a roof close by, on rollers, to prevent injury +from the white ants—a precaution which, I need hardly say, we had to +observe throughout our journey. Then some more ration money, sufficient +for ten days, had to be distributed among the men, the young Pococks +were told off to various camp duties to initiate them to exploring life +in Africa, and then, after the first confusion of arrival had subsided, +I began to muster the new _engagés_. + +But within three hours Bagamoyo was in a ferment. “The white man has +brought all the robbers, ruffians, and murderers of Zanzibar to take +possession of the town,” was the rumour that ran wildly through all the +streets, lanes, courts, and bazaars. Men with bloody faces, wild, +bloodshot eyes, bedraggled, rumpled and torn dresses, reeled up to our +orderly and nearly silent quarters clamouring for rifles and ammunition. +Arabs with drawn swords, and sinewy Baluchis with matchlocks and tinder +ready to be ignited, came up threatening, and, following them, a +miscellaneous rabble of excited men, while, in the background, seethed a +mob of frantic women and mischievous children. + +“What is the matter?” I asked, scarcely knowing how to begin to calm +this turbulent mass of passionate beings. + +“Matter!” was echoed. “What is the matter?” was repeated. “Matter +enough. The town is in an uproar. Your men are stealing, murdering, +robbing goods from the stores, breaking plates, killing our chickens, +assaulting everybody, drawing knives on our women after abusing them, +and threatening to burn the town and exterminate everybody. Matter +indeed! matter enough! What do you mean by bringing this savage rabble +from Zanzibar?” So fumed and sputtered an Arab of some consequence among +the magnates of Bagamoyo. + +“Dear me, my friend, this is shocking; terrible. Pray sit down, and be +patient. Sit down here by me, and let us talk this over like wise men,” +I said in soothing tones to this _enfant terrible_, for he really looked +in feature, dress, and demeanour, what, had I been an imaginative raw +youth, I should have set down as the “incarnate scourge of Africa,” and +he looked wicked enough with his bare, sinewy arms, his brandished +sword, and fierce black eyes, to chop off my innocent head. + +The Arab, with a short nod, accepted my proposition and seated himself. +“We are about to have a _Shauri_—a consultation.” “Hush there! Silence!” +“Words!” “Shauri!” “Words—open your ears!” “Slaves!” “Fools!” “List, +Arabs!” “You Baluch there, rein in your tongue!” &c. &c., cried out a +wild mixture of voices in a strange mixture of tongues, commanding, or +imploring, silence. + +The Arab was requested to speak, and to point out, if he knew them, the +Wangwana guilty of provoking such astonishing disorder. In an indignant +and eloquent strain he rehearsed his special complaint. A man named +Mustapha had come to his shop drunk, and had abused him like a low +blackguard, and then, snatching up a bolt of cotton cloth, had run away +with it, but, being pursued and caught, had drawn a knife, and was about +to stab him, when a friend of his opportunely clubbed the miscreant and +thus saved his life. By the mouths of several witnesses the complaint +was proved, and Mustapha was therefore arrested, disarmed of his knife, +and locked up in the dark strong-room, to reflect on his crimes in +solitude. Loud approval greeted the sentence. + +“Who else?” + +A score of people of both sexes advanced towards me with their +complaints, and it seemed as though silence could never be restored, but +by dint of threatening to leave the burzah from sheer despair, quietness +was restored. It is unnecessary to detail the several charges made +against them, or to describe the manner of conviction, but, after three +hours, peace reigned in Bagamoyo once more, and over twenty of the +Wangwana had been secured and impounded in the several rooms of the +house, with a dozen of their comrades standing guard over them. + +To avoid a repetition of this terrible scene, I despatched a messenger +with a polite request to the Governor, Sheikh Mansur bin Suliman, that +he would arrest and punish all disorderly Wangwana in my service, as +justice should require, but I am sorry to say that the Wali (governor) +took such advantage of this request that few of the Wangwana who showed +their faces in the streets next day escaped violence. Acting on the +principle that desperate diseases require desperate remedies, over +thirty had been chained and beaten, and many others had escaped abuse of +power only by desperate flight from the myrmidons of the now vengeful +sheikh. + +Another message was therefore sent to the Governor, imploring him to be +as lenient as possible, consistent with equitable justice, and +explaining to him the nature and cause of these frantic moods and +ebullitions of temper on the part of the Wangwana. I attempted to define +to him what “sprees” were, explaining that all men, about to undergo a +long absence from their friends and country, thought they were entitled +to greater freedom at such a period, but that some weak-headed men, with +a natural inclination to be vicious, had, in indulging this privilege, +encroached upon the privileges of others, and that hence arose collision +and confusion. But the Governor waxed still more tyrannical: beatings, +chainings, and extortionate exactions became more frequent and +unbearable, until at last the Wangwana appeared in a body before me, and +demanded another “Shauri.” + +The result of this long consultation—after an earnest protest from me +against their wild conduct, calculated, as I told them, to seriously +compromise me, followed by expostulation with them on their evil course, +and a warning that I felt more like abetting the Governor in his +treatment of them than seeking its amelioration—was an injunction to be +patient and well-behaved during our short stay, and a promise that I +would lead them into Africa within two days, when at the first camp +pardon should be extended to all, and a new life would be begun in +mutual peace and concord, to continue, I hoped, until our return to the +sea. + +There is an institution at Bagamoyo which ought not to be passed over +without remark, but the subject cannot be properly dealt with until I +have described the similar institution, of equal importance, at +Zanzibar, viz. the Universities Mission. Besides, I have three pupils of +the Universities Mission who are about to accompany me into Africa— +Robert Feruzi, Andrew, and Dallington. Robert is a stout lad of eighteen +years old, formerly a servant to one of the members of Lieutenant +Cameron’s Expedition, but discharged at Unyanyembé, for not very clear +reasons, to find his way back. Andrew is a strong youth of nineteen +years, rather reserved, and, I should say, not of a very bright +disposition. Dallington is much younger, probably only fifteen, with a +face strongly pitted with traces of a violent attack of small-pox, but +as bright and intelligent as any boy of his age, white or black. + +The Universities Mission is the result of the sensation caused in +England by Livingstone’s discoveries on the Zambezi and of Lakes Nyassa +and Shirwa. It was despatched by the Universities of Oxford and +Cambridge in the year 1860, and consisted of Bishop Mackenzie, formerly +Archdeacon of Natal, and the Rev. Messrs. Proctor, Scudamore, Burrup, +and Rowley. These devoted gentlemen reached the Zambezi river in +February 1861. + +When the Universities Mission met Livingstone, then engaged in the +practical work of developing the discovery of the Zambezi and other +neighbouring waters, a consultation was held as to the best locality for +mission work to begin at. The Bishop and his followers were advised by +Livingstone to ascend the Rovuma river, and march thence overland to +some selected spot on Lake Nyassa. But, upon attempting the project, the +river was discovered to be falling, and too shallow to admit of such a +steamer as the _Pioneer_, and as much sickness had broken out on board, +the Mission sailed to the Comoro Islands to recruit. In July 1861 they +reached the foot of the Murchison Cataracts on the Shiré. Soon after, +while proceeding overland, they encountered a caravan of slaves, whom +they liberated, with a zeal that was commendable though impolitic. +Subsequently, other slaves were forcibly detained from the caravans +until the number collected amounted to 148, and with these the +missionaries determined to begin their holy work. + +While establishing its quarters at Magomero, the Mission was attacked by +the Ajawas, but the reverend gentlemen and their pupils drove off the +enemy. Shortly after this, a difference of opinion arising with +Livingstone as to the proper policy to be pursued, the latter departed +to pursue his explorations, and the Bishop and his party continued to +prosecute their work with every promise of success. But in its zeal for +the suppression of the slave-trade, the Mission made alliance with the +Manganjas, and joined with them in a war against the Ajawas, whom they +afterwards discovered to be really a peaceable people. Thus was the +character of the Mission almost changed by the complicated politics of +the native tribes in which they had meddled without forethought of the +consequences. Then came the rainy season with its unhealthiness and +fatal results. Worn out with fever and privations, poor Bishop Mackenzie +died, and in less than a month the Rev. Mr. Burrup followed him. Messrs. +Scudamore, Dickinson, and Rowley removed the Mission to the banks of the +Shiré, where the two former died, and the few remaining survivors, +despairing of success, soon left the country, and the Universities +Mission to Central Africa became only a name with which the succeeding +Bishop, the Rev. Mr. Tozer, continued to denominate his Mission at +Zanzibar. + +Nor is the record of this hitherto unfortunate and struggling Mission in +the city of Zanzibar, with access to luxuries and comforts, brighter or +more assuring than it was at primitive Magomero, surrounded by leagues +of fen and morass. Many noble souls of both sexes perished, and the good +work seemed far from hopeful. I am reminded, as I write these words, of +my personal acquaintance with the venerable figure of Pennell, and the +young and ardent West. The latter was alive in 1874, full of ardour, +hope, and zealous devotion. When I returned, he had gone the way of his +brother martyrs of the Zambezi. + +[Illustration: + + UNIVERSITIES MISSION AT KANGANI, ZANZIBAR. + (_From a photograph by Mr. Buchanan, of Natal._) +] + +Almost single-handed remains the Rev. Edward Steere, faithful to his +post as Bishop and Chief Pastor. He has visited Lake Nyassa, and +established a Mission halfway, and another I believe at Lindi; he keeps +a watchful eye upon the operations of the Mission House established +among the Shambalas; and at the headquarters or home at Kangani, a few +miles east of Shangani Point, the old residence, he superintends, and +instructs lads and young men as printers, carpenters, blacksmiths, and +in the practical knowledge of other useful trades. His quarters +represent almost every industrial trade useful in life as occupations +for members of the lower classes, and are in the truest sense an +industrial and religious establishment for the moral and material +welfare of a class of unfortunates who deserve our utmost assistance and +sympathy. This extraordinary man, endowed with piety as fervid as ever +animated a martyr, looms grander and greater in the imagination as we +think of him as the one man who appears to have possessed the faculties +and gifts necessary to lift this Mission, with its gloomy history, into +the new life upon which it has now entered. With all my soul I wish him +and it success, and while he lives, provided he is supported, there need +be no fear that the Mission will resume that hopeless position from +which he, and he alone, appears to have rescued it. + +From the same source that the Universities Missions have drawn their +pupils, namely, the youthful victims of the slave-trade, her Majesty’s +Consul has supplied to a great extent the French Catholic Missions at +Zanzibar and Bagamoyo. The Mission in the island which has now been +established for years is called the St. Joseph’s, that at Bagamoyo bears +the title of “Notre Dame de Bagamoyo.” The first possesses two priests +and four brothers, with one lay professor of music; the other, which is +the principal one, consists of four priests, eight brothers, and twelve +sisters, with ten lay brothers employed in teaching agriculture. The +French fathers superintend the tuition of 250 children, and give +employment to about 80 adults; 170 freed slaves were furnished from the +slave-captures made by British cruisers. They are taught to earn their +own living as soon as they arrive of age, are furnished with comfortable +lodgings, clothing, and household utensils. + +“Notre Dame de Bagamoyo” is situated about a mile and a half north of +Bagamoyo, overlooking the sea, which washes the shores just at the base +of the tolerably high ground on which the mission buildings stand. +Thrift, order, and that peculiar style of neatness common to the French +are its characteristics. The cocoa-nut palm, orange, and mango flourish +in this pious settlement, while a variety of garden vegetables and grain +are cultivated in the fields; and broad roads, cleanly kept, traverse +the estate. During the Superior’s last visit to France he obtained a +considerable sum for the support of the Mission, and he has lately, +during my absence in Africa, established a branch mission at Kidudwe. It +is evident that, if supported constantly by his friends in France, the +Superior will extend his work still farther into the interior, and it +is, therefore, safe to predict that the road to Ujiji will in time +possess a chain of mission stations affording the future European trader +and traveller safe retreats with the conveniences of civilized life. + +There are two other missions on the east coast of Africa, that of the +Church Missionary Society, and the Methodist Free Church at Mombasa. The +former has occupied this station for over thirty years, and has a branch +establishment at Rabbai Mpia, the home of the Dutch missionaries, Krapf, +Rebmann, and Erhardt. But these missions have not obtained the success +which such long self-abnegation and devotion to the pious service +deserved. + +It is strange how British philanthropists, clerical and lay, persist in +the delusion that the Africans can be satisfied with spiritual +improvement only. They should endeavour to impress themselves with the +undeniable fact that man, white, yellow, red or black, has also material +wants which crave to be understood and supplied. A barbarous man is a +pure materialist. He is full of cravings for possessing something that +he cannot describe. He is like a child which has not yet acquired the +faculty of articulation. The missionary discovers the barbarian almost +stupefied with brutish ignorance, with the instincts of a man in him, +but yet living the life of a beast. Instead of attempting to develop the +qualities of this practical human being, he instantly attempts his +transformation by expounding to him the dogmas of the Christian Faith, +the doctrine of transubstantiation and other difficult subjects, before +the barbarian has had time to articulate his necessities and to explain +to him that he is a frail creature requiring to be fed with bread, and +not with a stone. + +My experience and study of the pagan prove to me, however, that if the +missionary can show the poor materialist that religion is allied with +substantial benefits and improvement of his degraded condition, the task +to which he is about to devote himself will be rendered comparatively +easy. For the African once brought in contact with the European becomes +docile enough; he is awed by a consciousness of his own immense +inferiority, and imbued with a vague hope that he may also rise in time +to the level of this superior being who has so challenged his +admiration. It is the story of Caliban and Stefano over again. He comes +to him with a desire to be taught and, seized with an ambition to aspire +to a higher life, becomes docile and tractable, but to his surprise he +perceives himself mocked by this being who talks to him about matters +that he despairs of ever understanding, and therefore with abashed face +and a still deeper sense of his inferiority, he retires to his den, +cavern, or hut with a dogged determination to be contented with the +brutish life he was born in. + +_Nov. 17._—On the morning of the 17th of November, 1874, the first +bold step for the interior was taken. The bugle mustered the people to +rank themselves before our quarters, and each man’s load was given to +him according as we judged his power of bearing burthen. To the man of +strong sturdy make, with a large development of muscle, the cloth bale +of 60 lbs. was given, which would in a couple of months by constant +expenditure be reduced to 50 lbs., in six months perhaps to 40 lbs., +and in a year to about 30 lbs., provided that all his comrades were +faithful to their duties; to the short compactly formed man, the bead +sack of 50 lbs. weight; to the light youth of eighteen or twenty years +old, the box of 40 lbs., containing stores, ammunition, and sundries. +To the steady, respectable, grave-looking men of advanced years, the +scientific instruments, thermometers, barometers, watches, sextant, +mercury bottles, compasses, pedometers, photographic apparatus, +dry plates, stationery, and scientific books, all packed in 40-lb. +cases, were distributed; while the man most highly recommended for +steadiness and most cautious tread was entrusted with the carriage +of the three chronometers which were stowed in balls of cotton, in a +light case weighing not more than 25 lbs. The twelve Kirangozis, or +guides, tricked out this day in flowing robes of crimson blanket cloth, +demanded the privilege of conveying the several loads of brass wire +coils, and as they form the second advance guard, and are active, bold +youths—some of whom are to be hereafter known as the boat’s crew, and +to be distinguished by me above all others, except the chiefs—they +are armed with Snider rifles, with their respective accoutrements. +The boat-carriers are herculean in figure and strength, for they are +practised bearers of loads, having resigned their ignoble profession +of hamal in Zanzibar to carry sections of the first European-made boat +that ever floated on Lakes Victoria and Tanganika and the extreme +sources of the Nile and the Livingstone. To each section of the boat +there are four men, to relieve one another in couples. They get higher +pay than even the chiefs, except the chief captain, Manwa Sera, +and, besides receiving double rations, have the privilege of taking +their wives along with them. There are six riding asses also in the +expedition, all saddled, one for each of the Europeans—the two Pococks, +Barker, and myself—and two for the sick: for the latter there are +also three of Seydel’s net hammocks, with six men to act as a kind of +ambulance party. + +[Illustration: + + WIFE OF MANWA SERA. + (_From a photograph._) +] + +Though we have not yet received our full complement of men, necessity +compels us to move from the vicinity of the Goanese liquor shops, and +from under the severe authority of Sheikh Mansur bin Suliman, whose +views of justice would soon demoralize any expedition. Accordingly +at 9 A.M. of the 17th, five days after leaving Zanzibar, we filed +out from the town, receiving some complimentary and not a few +uncomplimentary parting words from the inhabitants, male and female, +who are out in strong force to view the procession as follows: Four +chiefs a few hundred yards in front; next the twelve guides clad +in red robes of Joho, bearing the wire coils; then a long file 270 +strong, bearing cloth, wire, beads, and sections of the _Lady Alice_; +after them thirty-six women and ten boys, children of some of the +chiefs and boat-bearers, following their mothers and assisting them +with trifling loads of utensils, followed by the riding asses, +Europeans and gun-bearers; the long line closed by sixteen chiefs who +act as rear-guard, and whose duties are to pick up stragglers, and +act as supernumeraries until other men can be procured: in all 356 +souls connected with the Anglo-American Expedition. The lengthy line +occupies nearly half a mile of the path which at the present day is the +commercial and exploring highway into the Lake regions. + +Edward Pocock is kind enough to act as bugler, because from long +practice at the military camps at Aldershot and Chatham he understands +the signals. He has familiarized Hamadi, the chief guide, with its +notes, so that in case of a halt being required, Hamadi may be informed +immediately. The chief guide is also armed with a prodigiously long horn +of ivory, his favourite instrument, and one that belongs to his +profession, which he has permission to use only when approaching a +suitable camping-place, or to notify to us danger in the front. Before +Hamadi strides a chubby little boy with a native drum, which is to beat +only when in the neighbourhood of villages, to warn them of the advance +of a caravan, a caution most requisite, for many villages are scattered +in the midst of a dense jungle, and the sudden arrival of a large force +of strangers before they had time to hide their little belongings might +awake jealousy and distrust. + +In this manner we begin our long journey, full of hopes. There is noise +and laughter along the ranks, and a hum of gay voices murmuring through +the fields, as we rise and descend with the waves of the land and wind +with the sinuosities of the path. Motion had restored us all to a sense +of satisfaction. We had an intensely bright and fervid sun shining above +us, the path was dry, hard, and admirably fit for travel, and during the +commencement of our first march nothing could be conceived in better +order than the lengthy thin column about to confront the wilderness. + +Presently, however, the fervour of the dazzling sun grows overpowering +as we descend into the valley of the Kingani river. The ranks become +broken and disordered; stragglers are many; the men complain of the +terrible heat; the dogs pant in agony. Even we ourselves under our solar +topees, with flushed faces and perspiring brows, with handkerchiefs ever +in use to wipe away the drops which almost blind us, and our heavy +woollens giving us a feeling of semi-asphyxiation, would fain rest, were +it not that the sun-bleached levels of the tawny, thirsty valley offer +no inducements. The veterans of travel push on towards the river three +miles distant, where they may obtain rest and shelter, but the +inexperienced are lying prostrate on the ground, exclaiming against the +heat, and crying for water, bewailing their folly in leaving Zanzibar. +We stop to tell them to rest a while, and then to come on to the river, +where they will find us; we advise, encourage, and console the irritated +people as best we can, and tell them that it is only the commencement of +a journey that is so hard, that all this pain and weariness are always +felt by beginners, but that by-and-by it is shaken off, and that those +who are steadfast emerge out of the struggle heroes. + +Frank and his brother Edward, despatched to the ferry at the beginning +of these delays, have now got the sectional boat _Lady Alice_ all ready, +and the ferrying of men, goods, asses, and dogs across the Kingani is +prosecuted with vigour, and at 3.30 P.M. the boat is again in pieces, +slung on the bearing poles, and the Expedition has resumed its journey +to Kikoka, the first halting-place. + +But before we reach camp, we have acquired a fair idea as to how many of +our people are staunch and capable, and how many are too feeble to +endure the fatigues of bearing loads. The magnificent prize mastiff dog +“Castor” died of heat apoplexy, within two miles of Kikoka, and the +other mastiff, “Captain,” seems likely to follow soon, and only “Nero,” +“Bull,” and “Jack,” though prostrate and breathing hard, show any signs +of life. + +_Nov. 18._—At Kikoka, then, we rest the next day. We discharge two men, +who have been taken seriously ill, and several new recruits, who arrive +at camp during the night preceding and this day, are engaged. + +There are several reasons which can be given, besides heat of the +Tropics and inexperience, for the quick collapse of many of the Wangwana +on the first march, and the steadiness evinced by the native carriers +confirms them. The Wangwana lead very impure lives on the island, and +with the importation of opium by the Banyans and Hindis, the Wangwana +and many Arabs have acquired the vicious habit of eating this drug. +Chewing betel-nut with lime is another uncleanly and disgusting habit, +and one that can hardly benefit the _morale_ of a man; while certainly +most deleterious to the physical powers is the almost universal habit of +vehemently inhaling the smoke of the _Cannabis sativa_, or wild hemp. In +a light atmosphere, such as we have in hot days in the Tropics, with the +thermometer rising to 140° Fahr. in the sun, these people, with lungs +and vitals injured by excessive indulgence in these destructive habits, +discover they have no physical stamina to sustain them. The rigour of a +march in a loaded caravan soon tells upon their weakened powers, and one +by one they drop from the ranks, betraying their impotence and +infirmities. + +During the afternoon of this day, as I was preparing my last letters, I +was rather astonished by a visit paid to my camp by a detachment of +Baluchi soldiers, the chief of whom bore a letter from the governor of +Bagamoyo—Mansur bin Suliman—wherein he complained that the Wangwana had +induced about fifteen women to abandon their masters, and requested me +to return them. + +Upon mustering the people, and inquiring into their domestic affairs, it +was discovered that a number of women had indeed joined the Expedition +during the night. Some of them bore free papers given them by H.M. +Political Resident at Zanzibar, but nine were by their own confessions +runaways. After being hospitably received by the Sultan and the Arabs of +Zanzibar, it was no part of my duty, I considered, unauthorized as I was +by any Government, to be even a passive agent in this novel method of +liberating slaves. The order was therefore given that these women should +return with the soldiers, but as this did not agree with either the +views of the women or of their loving abductors, a determined opposition +was raised, which bore every appearance of soon culminating in +sanguinary strife. The men seized their Snider rifles and Tower muskets, +and cartridges, ramrods and locks were handled with looks which boded +mischief. Acting upon the principle that as chief of my own camp I had a +perfect right to exclude unbidden guests, I called out the “faithfuls” +of my first expedition, forty-seven in number, and ranked them on the +side of the Sultan’s soldiers, to prove to the infuriated men that, if +they fired, they must injure their own friends, brothers, and chiefs. +Frank Pocock also led a party of twenty in their rear, and then, closing +in on the malcontents, we disarmed them, and lashed their guns into +bundles, which were delivered up to the charge of Edward Pocock. A small +party of faithfuls was then ordered to escort the Sultan’s soldiers and +the women out of camp, lest some vengeful men should have formed an +ambuscade between our camp and the river. + +From the details furnished in this and the two preceding chapters, a +tolerably correct idea may be gained by the intending traveller, trader, +or missionary in these lands, of the proper method of organization, as +well as the quality and nature of the men whom he will lead, the manner +of preparation and the proportion of articles to be purchased. + +As there are so many subjects to be touched upon along the seven +thousand miles of explored lines, I propose to be brief with the +incidents and descriptive sketches of our route to Ituru, because the +country for two-thirds of the way has been sufficiently described in +‘How I found Livingstone.’ + +[Illustration: + + THE EXPEDITION AT ROSAKO. + (_From a photograph._) +] + + + + + CHAPTER V. + +On the March—Congorido to Rubuti—The hunting-grounds of Kitangeh— + Shooting zebra—“Jack’s” first prize—Interviewed by lions—Geology of + Mpwapwa—Dudoma—“The flood-gates of heaven” opened—Dismal reflections— + The Salina—A conspiracy discovered—Desertions—The path lost—Starvation + and deaths—Trouble imminent—Grain huts plundered—Situation deplorable— + Sickness in the camp—Edward Pocock taken ill—His death and funeral. + + +The line of march towards the interior, which, after due consideration, +we adopted, runs parallel to the routes known to us, by the writings of +many travellers, but extends as far as thirty miles north of the most +northerly of them. + +At Rosako the route began to diverge from that which led to Msuwa and +Simba-Mwenni, and opened out on a stretch of beautiful park land, green +as an English lawn, dipping into lovely vales, and rising into gentle +ridges. Thin, shallow threads of water in furrow-like beds or in deep +narrow ditches, which expose the sandstone strata on which the fat +ochreous soil rests, run in mazy curves round forest clumps, or through +jungle tangles, and wind about among the higher elevations, on their way +towards the Wami river. + +_Nov. 23._—On the 23rd, we halted at the base of one of the three cones +of Pongwé, at a village situated at an altitude of 900 feet above the +sea. The lesser Pongwé cone rises about 800 feet higher than the +village, and the greater probably 1200 feet. The pedometers marked +forty-six miles from Bagamoyo. + +Congorido, a populous village, was reached on the 24th. From my hut, the +Pongwé hills were in clear view. The stockade was newly built, and was a +good defensive enclosure. The drinking-water was brackish, but after +long search, something more potable was discovered a short distance to +the south-east. + +Mfuteh, the next village, was another strong, newly enclosed +construction after the pattern of the architecture of Unyamwezi. The +baobab, at this height, began to flourish, and in the depressions of the +land the doum, borassus, and fan-palm were very numerous. The soil +westward of Congorido, I observed, contains considerable alkali, and it +is probable that this substance is favourable to the growth of palms. +The villagers are timid and suspicious. Lions are reported to abound +towards the north. + +Westward of Mfuteh we travelled along the right or southern bank of the +Wami for about four miles. Its banks are fringed with umbrageous wooded +borders, and beyond these extends an interesting country. The colossal +peak of Kidudu rears its lofty crown to a great height, and forms a +conspicuous landmark, towering above its less sublime neighbours of +Nguru, about fifteen or twenty miles north of the Wami’s course. + +_Nov. 29._—From Mfuteh to Rubuti, a village on the Lugumbwa creek, which +we reached on the 29th, game is numerous, but the landscape differs +little from that described above. We crossed the Wami three times in one +march, the fords being only 2½ feet deep. Granite boulders protruded +above the surface, and the boiling points at one of the fords showed a +considerable height above the sea. At one of the fords there was a +curious suspension bridge over the river, constructed of llianes with +great ingenuity by the natives. The banks were at this point 16 feet +high above the river, and from bank to bank the distance was only 30 +yards: it was evident, therefore, that the river must be a dangerous +torrent during the rainy season. + +The road thence, skirting a range of mountains, leads across numerous +watercourses and some very clear rivers—one, the Mkindo, near Mvomero, +being a beautiful stream, and the water of which I thought very +invigorating. I certainly imagined I felt in excellent spirits the whole +of the day after I had taken a deep draught of it. + +_Dec. 3._—On the 3rd of December we came to the Mkundi river, a +tributary of the Wami, which divides Nguru country from Usagara. +Simba-Mwenni, or Simba-Miunyi—the Lion Lord—not the famous man farther +south—owns five villages in this neighbourhood. He was generous, +and gratified us with a gift of a sheep, some flour, and plantains, +accepting with pleasure some cloth in return. + +The Wa-Nguru speak the same dialect as the Waseguhha and Wasagara, and +affect the same ornaments, being fond of black and white beads and brass +wire. They split the lobes of their ears, and introduce such curious +things as the necks of gourds or round discs of wood to extend the gash. +A medley of strange things are worn round the neck, such as tiny goats’ +horns, small brass chains, and large egg-like beads. Blue Kanika and the +red-barred Barsati are the favourite cloths in this region. The natives +dye their faces with ochre, and, probably influenced by the example of +Wanyamwezi, dress their hair in long ringlets, which are adorned with +pendicles of copper, or white or red beads of the large Sam-sam pattern. + +_Dec. 4._—Grand and impressive scenery meets the eye as we march to +Makubika, the next settlement, where we attain an altitude of 2675 feet +above the ocean. Peaks and knolls rise in all directions, for we are now +ascending to the eastern front of the Kaguru mountains. The summits of +Ukamba are seen to the north, its slopes famous for the multitude of +elephants. The mountain characteristically called the “Back of the Bow” +has a small, clear lake near it, and remarkable peaks or mountain crests +break the sky line on every side. Indeed, some parts of this great +mountain range abound in scenery both picturesque and sublime. + +Between Mamboya and Kitangeh, I was much struck by the resemblance that +many of the scenes bear to others that I had seen in the Alleghanies. +Water is abundant, flowing clear as crystal from numerous sources. As we +neared Eastern Kitangeh, villages were beheld dotted over every hill, +the inhabitants of which, so often frightened by inroads of the ever +marauding Wamasai, have been rendered very timid. Here, for the first +time, cattle were observed as we travelled westerly from Bagamoyo. + +By a gradual ascent from the fine pastoral basin of Kitangeh, we reached +the spine of a hill at 4490 feet, and beheld an extensive plain, +stretching north-west and west, with browsing herds of noble game. +Camping on its verge, between a lumpy hill and some rocky knolls, near a +beautiful pond of crystal-clear water, I proceeded with my gun-bearer, +Billali, and the notorious Msenna, in the hope of bringing down +something for the Wangwana, and was heartily encouraged thereto by Frank +and Ted Pocock. + +[Illustration: VIEW FROM THE VILLAGE OF MAMBOYA.] + +The plain was broader than I had judged it by the eye from the crest of +the hill whence we had first sighted it. It was not until we had walked +briskly over a long stretch of tawny grass, crushed by sheer force +through a brambly jungle, and trampled down a path through clumps of +slender cane stalks, that we came at last in view of a small herd of +zebras. These animals are so quick of scent and ear, and so vigilant +with their eyes, that, across an open space, it is most difficult to +stalk them. But by dint of tremendous exertion, I contrived to approach +to within 250 yards, taking advantage of every thin tussock of grass, +and, almost at random, fired. One of the herd leaped from the ground, +galloped a few short maddened strides, and then, on a sudden, staggered, +kneeled, trembled, and fell over, its legs kicking the air. Its +companions whinnied shrilly for their mate, and, presently wheeling in +circles with graceful motion, advanced nearer, still whinnying, until I +dropped another with a crushing ball through the head—much against my +wish, for I think zebras were created for better purpose than to be +eaten. The remnant of the herd vanished, and the bull-terrier “Jack,” +now unleashed, was in an instant glorying in his first strange prizes. +How the rogue plunged his teeth in their throats! with what ardour he +pinned them by the nose! and soon bathing himself in blood, he appeared +to be the very Dog of Murder, a miracle of rabid ferocity. + +Billali, requested to run to camp to procure Wangwana to carry the meat +to camp, was only too happy, knowing what brave cheers and hearty +congratulations would greet him. Msenna was already busy skinning one of +the animals, some 300 yards from me; Jack was lying at my feet, watchful +of the dead zebra on which I was seated, and probably calculating, so I +supposed, how large a share would fall to him for his assistance in +seizing the noble quarry by the nose. I was fast becoming absorbed in a +mental picture of what might possibly lie behind the northern mountain +barrier of the plain, when Jack sprang up and looked southward. Turning +my head, I made out the form of some tawny animal, that was advancing +with a curious long step, and I recognised it to be a lion. I motioned +to Msenna, who happened to be looking up, and beckoned him. “What do you +think it is, Msenna?” I asked. “Simba (a lion), master,” he answered. + +Finding my own suspicions verified, we both lay down, and prepared our +rifles. Two explosive bullets were slipped into an elephant rifle, and I +felt sure with the perfect rest which the body of the zebra gave for the +rifle, that I could drop anything living larger than a cat at the +distance of 100 yards; so I awaited his approach with composure. The +animal advanced to within 300 yards, and then, giving a quick bound as +though surprised, stood still. Shortly afterwards, after a deliberate +survey, he turned sharp round and trotted off into a low shrubby jungle, +about 800 yards away. Ten minutes elapsed, and then as many animals +emerged from the same spot into which the other had disappeared, and +approached us in stately column. But it being now dusk, I could not +discern them very clearly. We both were, however, quite sure in our own +minds that they were lions, or at any rate some animals so like them in +the twilight that we could not imagine them to be anything else. When +the foremost had come within 100 yards, I fired. It sprang up and fell, +and the others disappeared with a dreadful rush. We now heard shouts +behind us, for the Wangwana had come; so, taking one or two with me, I +endeavoured to discover what I felt to be a prostrate lion, but it could +not be found. It occupied us some time to skin and divide our game, and +as the camp was far, we did not reach it until 9 P.M., when, of course, +we received a sincere welcome from people hungry for meat. + +The next day Manwa Sera went out to hunt for the lion-skin, but returned +after a long search with only a strong doubt in his mind as to its +having been a lion, and a few reddish hairs to prove that it was +something which had been eaten by hyenas. This day I succeeded in +shooting a small antelope of the springbok kind. + +_Dec. 11._—We crossed the plain on the 11th of December, and arrived at +Tubugwé. It is only six miles in width, but within this distance we +counted fourteen human skulls, the mournful relics of some unfortunate +travellers, slain by an attack of Wahumba from the north-west. I think +it is beyond doubt that this plain, extending, as it does, from the +unexplored north-west, and projecting like a bay into a deep mountain +fiord south-east of our road, must in former times have been an inlet or +creek of the great reservoir of which the Ugombo lake, south of here, is +a residuum. The bed of this ancient lake now forms the pastoral plains +of the Wahumba, and the broad plain-like expanses visible in the Ugogo +country. + +Rounding the western extremity of a hilly range near the scene of our +adventures, we followed a valley till it sloped into a basin, and +finally narrowed to a ravine, along the bottom of which runs a small +brackish stream. A bed of rock-salt was discovered on the opposite side. + +Two miles farther, at the base of a hilly cone, we arrived at a wooded +gully, where very clear and fresh water is found, and from which the +path runs west, gradually rising along the slope of a hill until it +terminates in a pass 3700 feet above sea-level, whence the basin of +Tubugwé appears in view, enclosing twenty-five square, stockaded +villages and many low hills, and patched with cultivated fields. A +gentle descent of about 400 feet brought us to our camp, on the banks of +a small tributary of the Mukondokwa. + +[Illustration: + + OUR CAMP AT MPWAPWA. + (_From a photograph._) +] + +_Dec. 12._—On the 12th of December, twenty-five days’ march from +Bagamoyo, we arrived at Mpwapwa. + +The region traversed from the eastern slopes of that broad range which +we began to skirt soon after passing to the left bank of the Wami river, +as far as Chunyu (a few miles west of Mpwapwa), comprises the extreme +breadth of the tract distinguished in the work, ‘How I found +Livingstone,’ as the Usagara mountains. The rocks are of the older +class, gneiss and schists, but in several localities granite protrudes, +besides humpy dykes of trap. From the brackish stream east of Tubugwé, +as far as Mpwapwa, there are also several dykes of a feldspathic rock, +notably one that overlooks the basin of Tubugwé. The various clear +streams coursing towards the Mukondokwa, as we dipped and rose over the +highest points of the mountains among which the path led us, reveal beds +of granite, shale, and rich porphyritic brown rock, while many loose +boulders of a granitic character lie strewn on each side, either +standing up half covered with clambering plants in precarious positions +upon a denuded base, or lying bare in the beds of the stream, exposed to +the action of the running water. Pebbles also, lodged on small shelves +of rock in the streams, borne thither by their force during rainy +seasons, attest the nature of the formations higher up their course. +Among these, we saw varieties of quartz, porphyry, green-stone, dark +grey shale, granite, hematite, and purple jasper, chalcedony, and other +gravels. + +The rock-salt discovered has a large mass exposed to the action of the +stream. In its neighbourhood is a greyish tufa, also exposed, with a +brown mossy parasite running in threads over its face. + +Wood is abundant in large clumps soon after passing Kikoka, and this +feature of the landscape obtains as far as Congorido. The Wami has a +narrow fringe of palms on either bank; while thinly scattered in the +plains and less fertile parts, a low scrubby brushwood, of the acacia +species, is also seen, but nowhere dense. Along the base and slopes of +the mountains, and in its deep valleys, large trees are very numerous, +massing, at times, even into forests. The extreme summits, however, are +clothed with only grass and small herbage. + +Mpwapwa has also some fine trees, but no forest; the largest being the +tamarind, sycamore, cottonwood, and baobab. The collection of villages +denominated by this title lies widely scattered on either side of the +Mpwapwa stream, at the base of the southern slope of a range of +mountains that extends in a sinuous line from Chunyu to Ugombo. I call +it a range because it appeared to be one from Mpwapwa; but in reality it +is simply the northern flank of a deep indentation in the great mountain +chain that extends from Abyssinia, or even Suez, down to the Cape of +Good Hope. At the extreme eastern point of this indentation from the +western side lies Lake Ugombo, just twenty-four miles from Mpwapwa. + +Desertions from the expedition had been frequent. At first, Kachéché, +the chief detective, and his gang of four men, who had received +their instructions to follow us a day’s journey behind, enabled me +to recapture sixteen of the deserters; but the cunning Wangwana +and Wanyamwezi soon discovered this resource of mine against their +well-known freaks, and, instead of striking east in their departure, +absconded either south or north of the track. We then had detectives +posted long before dawn, several hundred yards away from the camp, +who were bidden to lie in wait in the bush, until the expedition had +started, and in this manner we succeeded in repressing to some extent +the disposition to desert, and arrested very many men on the point of +escaping; but even this was not adequate. Fifty had abandoned us before +reaching Mpwapwa, taking with them the advances they had received, and +often their guns, on which our safety might depend. + +Several feeble men and women also had to be left behind; and it was +evident that the very wariest methods failed to bind the people to their +duties. The best of treatment and abundance of provisions daily +distributed were alike insufficient to induce such faithless natures to +be loyal. However, we persisted, and as often as we failed in one way, +we tried another. Had all these men remained loyal to their contract and +promises, we should have been too strong for any force to attack us, as +our numbers must necessarily have commanded respect in lands and among +tribes where only power is respected. + +One day’s march from Mpwapwa, the route skirting a broad arm of the +Marenga Mkali desert, which leads to the Ugombo lake, brought us to +Chunyu—an exposed and weak settlement, overlooking the desert or +wilderness separating Usagara from Ugogo. Close to our right towered the +Usagara mountains, and on our left stretched the inhospitable arm of the +wilderness. Fifteen or twenty miles distant to the south rose the vast +cluster of Rubeho’s cones and peaks. + +The water at Chunyu is nitrous and bitter to the taste. The natives were +once prosperous, but repeated attacks from the Wahehé to the south and +the Wahumba to the north have reduced them in numbers, and compelled +them to seek refuge on the hill-summits. + +_Dec. 16._—On the 16th of December, at early dawn, we struck camp, and +at an energetic pace descended into the wilderness, and at 7 P.M. the +vanguard of the expedition entered Ugogo, camping two or three miles +from the frontier village of Kikombo. The next day, at a more moderate +pace, we entered the populated district, and took shelter under a mighty +baobab a few hundred yards distant from the chief’s village. + +The fields, now denuded of the dwarf acacia and gum jungle which is the +characteristic feature of the wilderness of Marenga Mkali and its +neighbourhood, gave us a clear view of a broad bleak plain, with nothing +to break its monotony to the jaundiced eye save a few solitary baobab, +some square wattled enclosures within which the inhabitants live, and an +occasional herd of cattle or flock of goats that obtain a poor +subsistence from the scanty herbage. A few rocky hills rise in the +distance on either hand. + +Kikombo, or Chikombo, stands at an altitude by aneroid of 2475 feet. The +hills proved, as we afterwards ascertained on arriving at Itumbi, Sultan +Mpamira’s, to be the eastern horn of the watershed that divides the +streams flowing south to the Rufiji from those that trend north. + +We march under a very hot sun to Mpamira’s village; and through the +double cover of the tent the heat at Itumbi rose to 96° Fahr. Within an +hour of our arrival, the sky, as usual in this season, became overcast, +the weather suddenly became cold, and the thermometer descended to 69° +Fahr., while startling claps of thunder echoed among the hills, +accompanied by vivid flashes of lightning. About three miles to the +south-west, we observed a thick fog, and knew that rain was falling, but +we only received a few drops. Half an hour later, a broad and dry sandy +stream-bed, in which we had commenced to dig for water, was transformed +into a swift torrent of 18 inches deep and 50 yards wide, the general +direction of which was north by east. Within two or three hours, there +were only a few gentle threads of water remaining; the torrent had +subsided as quickly as it had risen. + +On our road to Leehumwa, we passed over a greyish calcareous tufa. On +either side of us rise hills bare of soil, presenting picturesque +summits, some of which are formed by upright masses of yellow feldspar, +coloured by the presence of iron and exposure to weather. + +The next settlement, Dudoma, is situated on a level terrace to the north +of the hills which form the watershed, and from its base extends, to the +unknown north, the great plain of Uhumba, a dry, arid, and inhospitable +region, but covered with brushwood, and abandoned to elephants, lions, +large game, and intractable natives. + +_Dec. 23._—The rainy season began in earnest on the 23rd of December, +while we halted at Dudoma, and next day we struggled through a pelting +storm, during an eight miles’ march to Zingeh, the plain of which we +found already half submerged by rushing yellow streams. + +_Dec. 25._—The following sketch is a portion of a private letter to +a friend, written on Christmas Day at Zingeh: “I am in a centre-pole +tent, seven by eight. As it rained all day yesterday, the tent was set +over wet ground, which, by the passing in and out of the servants, was +soon trampled into a thick pasty mud bearing the traces of toes, heels, +shoe nails, and dogs’ paws. The tent walls are disfigured by large +splashes of mud, and the tent corners hang down limp and languid, and +there is such an air of forlornness and misery about its very set that +it increases my own misery, already great at the sight of the doughy +muddy ground with its puddlets and strange hieroglyphic traceries and +prints. I sit on a bed raised about a foot above the sludge, mournfully +reflecting on my condition. Outside, the people have evidently a fellow +feeling with me, for they appear to me like beings with strong suicidal +intentions or perhaps they mean to lie still, inert until death +relieves them. It has been raining heavily the last two or three days, +and an impetuous downpour of sheet rain has just ceased. On the march, +rain is very disagreeable; it makes the clayey path slippery, and the +loads heavier by being saturated, while it half ruins the cloths. It +makes us dispirited, wet, and cold, added to which we are hungry—for +there is a famine or scarcity of food at this season, and therefore we +can only procure half-rations. The native store of grain is consumed +during the months of May, June, July, August, September, October, and +November. By December, the planting month, there is but little grain +left, and for what we are able to procure, we must pay about ten times +the ordinary price. The natives, owing to improvidence, have but little +left. I myself have not had a piece of meat for ten days. My food is +boiled rice, tea, and coffee, and soon I shall be reduced to eating +native porridge, like my own people. I weighed 180 lbs. when I left +Zanzibar, but under this diet I have been reduced to 134 lbs. within +thirty-eight days. The young Englishmen are in the same impoverished +condition of body, and unless we reach some more flourishing country +than famine-stricken Ugogo, we must soon become mere skeletons. + +“Besides the terribly wet weather and the scarcity of food from which we +suffer, we are compelled to undergo the tedious and wearisome task of +haggling with extortionate chiefs over the amount of black-mail which +they demand, and which we must pay. We are compelled, as you may +perceive, to draw heavy drafts on the virtues of prudence, patience, and +resignation, without which the transit of Ugogo, under such conditions +as above described, would be most perilous. Another of my dogs, ‘Nero,’ +the retriever, is dead. Alas! all will die.” + +_Dec. 26._—The next camp westward from Zingeh which we established was +at Jiweni, or the Stones, at an altitude above sea-level of 3150 feet; +crossing on our march three streams with a trend southerly to the +Rufiji. Formerly there had been a settlement here, but in one of the +raids of the Wahumba it had been swept away, leaving only such traces of +man’s occupation as broken pottery, and shallow troughs in the rocks +caused probably by generations of female grinders of corn. + +Through a scrubby jungle, all of which in past times had been +cultivated, we marched from the “Stones” to Kitalalo, the chief of which +place became very friendly with me, and, to mark his delight at my +leading a caravan to his country—the first, he hoped, of many more—he +presented a fat ox to the Wangwana and Wanyamwezi. + +The outskirts of Kitalalo are choked with growths of acacia, tamarisk, +and gum, while clusters of doum palms are numerous. Further west +stretches the broad plain of Mizanza and Mukondoku, with its deceitful +mirage, herbless and treeless expanse, and nitrous water. + +One Somali youth, Mohammed, deserted just eastward of Kitalalo, and was +never afterwards heard of. + +_Dec. 29._—Early on the 29th of December, guided by Kitalalo’s son, we +emerged from our camp under the ever rustling doum palms, and a short +mile brought us to the broad and almost level Salina, which stretches +from Mizanza to the south of the track to the hills of Unyangwira, +north. + +The hilly range or upland wall which confronted us on the west ever +since we left the “Stones,” and which extends from Usekké northwards to +Machenché, is the natural boundary accepted by the natives as separating +Ugogo from Uyanzi—or Ukimbu, as it is now beginning to be called. The +slope of the Salina, though slight and imperceptible to the eye, is +southerly, and therefore drained by the Rufiji. The greatest breadth of +this plain is twenty miles, and its length may be estimated at fifty +miles. The march across it was very fatiguing. Not a drop of water was +discovered _en route_, though towards the latter part of the journey a +grateful rain shower fell, which revived the caravan, but converted the +plain into a quagmire. + +On approaching the Mukondoku district, which contains about a hundred +small villages, we sighted the always bellicose natives advancing upon +our van with uplifted spears and noisy show of war. This belligerent +exhibition did not disturb our equanimity, as we were strangers and had +given no cause for hostilities. After manifesting their prowess by a few +harmless boasts and much frantic action, they soon subsided into a more +pacific demeanour, and permitted us to proceed quietly to our camp under +a towering baobab near the king’s village. + +This king’s name is Chalula, and he is a brother of Masumami of +Kitalalo. Unlike his nobler brother, he is crafty and unscrupulous, and +levies extortionate tribute on travellers, for which he never deigns to +send the smallest present in return. His people are numerous, strong, +and bold, and, sharing the overweening pride of their king, are prone to +insolence and hostility upon the slightest cause. Being so powerful, he +is cordially detested by his royal brothers of Kiwyeh, Khonko, and +Mizanza. We experienced therefore much difficulty in preserving the +peace, as his people would insist upon filling the camp, and prying into +every tent and hut. + +A conspiracy was discovered at this place, by which fifty men, who had +firmly resolved to abscond, were prevented from carrying out their +intention by my securing the ring-leaders and disarming their deluded +followers. Twenty men were on the sick list, from fever, sore feet, +ophthalmia, and rheumatism. Five succeeded in deserting with their guns +and accoutrements, and two men were left at Mukondoku almost blind. +Indeed, to record our daily mischances and our losses up to this date in +full detail would require half of this volume; but these slight hints +will suffice to show that the journey of an expedition into Africa is +beset with troubles and disaster. + +Frank and Edward Pocock and Frederick Barker rendered me invaluable +services while endeavouring to harmonise the large, unruly mob with its +many eccentric and unassimilating natures. Quarrels were frequent, +sometimes even dangerous, between various members of the Expedition, and +at such critical moments only did my personal interference become +imperatively necessary. What with taking solar observations and making +ethnological notes, negotiating with chiefs about the tribute moneys and +attending on the sick, my time was occupied from morning until night. In +addition to all this strain on my own physical powers, I was myself +frequently sick from fever, and wasted from lack of proper, nourishing +food; and if the chief of an expedition be thus distressed, it may +readily be believed that the poor fellows depending on him suffer also. + +_Jan. 1._—Having received our guides from Chalula, king of Mukondoku, +on the 1st of January 1875 we struck north, thus leaving for the +first time the path to Unyanyembé, the common highway of East Central +Africa. We were skirting the eastern base of the upland wall, or hilly +range (which, as I have said, we sighted westward from the “Stones”), +by a path which connected several Wahumba villages. Though humble +to the European eye, these villages owned several herds of humped, +short-horned cattle, flocks of sheep and goats, with many strong asses +and dogs. Some of the young women were unusually pretty, with regular +features, well-formed noses, thin, finely chiselled lips, and graceful +forms. + +We—the Europeans—were as great curiosities to the natives as though +they lived hundreds of miles from the Unyanyembé road. Each of the +principal men and women extended to us pressing invitations to stop in +their villages, and handsome young chiefs entreated us to become their +blood-brothers. Young Keelusu, the son of the chief of Mwenna, even +came to my camp at night, and begged me to accept a “small gift from +a friend,” which he had brought. This gift was a gallon of new milk, +still warm from the udder. Such a welcome present was reciprocated with +a gilt bracelet, with a great green crystal set in it, a briarwood +pipe, stem banded in silver, a gilt chain, and a Sohari cloth, with +which he was so overjoyed as almost to weep. His emotions of gratitude +were visible in the glistening and dilated eyes, and felt in the +fervent grasp he gave my hand. By some magic art with his sandals of +cowhide, he predicted success to my journey. As the right sandal after +being tossed three times upward, each time turned upside down, my good +health and well-being, he said, were assured, without a doubt. + +_Jan. 2._—The next halt was made at Mtiwi, the chief of which was +Malewa. The aneroid here indicated an altitude of 2825 feet. Our +faithless Wagogo guides having deserted us, we marched a little distance +farther north, and ascended the already described “upland wall,” where +the aneroid at our camp indicated a height of 3800 feet—or about 950 +feet above the plain on which Mtiwi, Mwenna, and Mukondoku are situated. + +The last night at Mtiwi was a disturbed one. The “floodgates of heaven” +seemed literally opened for a period. After an hour’s rainfall, 6 inches +of water covered our camp, and a slow current ran southerly. Every +member of the expedition was distressed, and even the Europeans, lodged +in tents, were not exempted from the evils of the night. My tent walls +enclosed a little pool, banked by boxes of stores and ammunition. +Hearing cries outside, I lit a candle, and my astonishment was great to +find that my bed was an island in a shallow river, which, if it +increased in depth and current, would assuredly carry me off south +towards the Rufiji. My walking boots were miniature barks, floating to +and fro on a turbid tide seeking a place of exit to the dark world of +waters without. My guns, lashed to the centre pole, were stock deep in +water. But the most comical sight was presented by Jack and Bull, +perched back to back on the top of an ammunition-box, butting each other +rearward, and snarling and growling for that scant portion of comfort. + +In the morning, I discovered my fatigue cap several yards outside the +tent, and one of my boots sailing down south. The harmonium, a present +for Mtesa, a large quantity of gunpowder, tea, rice and sugar, were +destroyed. Vengeance appeared to have overtaken us. At 10 A.M. the sun +appeared, astonished no doubt at a new lake formed during his absence. +By noon the water had considerably decreased, and permitted us to march; +and with glad hearts we surmounted the upland of Uyanzi, and from our +busy camp, on the afternoon of the 4th of January, gazed upon the +spacious plain beneath, and the vast broad region of sterility and +thorns which we had known as inhospitable Ugogo. + +_Jan. 4._—On the upland which we were now about to traverse, we had +arrived at an elevation which greatly altered the character of the +vegetation. On the plain of Ugogo flourish only dwarf bush, a mongrel +and degenerate variety of the noble trees growing in Uyanzi, consisting +of acacia, rank-smelling gum-trees, and euphorbias. Here we have the +stately myombo or African ash. This tree grows on the loftier ridges +and high uplands, flourishing best on loose ferruginous soil. It +utterly rejects the rich alluvium, as well as the shady loam. Where the +tree assumes its greatest height and girth, we may be sure also that +not far off strange freaks of rock will be found in the bosom of the +forest, such as gigantic square blocks of granite, of the magnitude +of cottages, and at a distance reminding the traveller of miniature +castles and other kinds of human dwellings. Large sheets of hematite +and gneiss denuded of soil are also characteristics of this plateau, +while still another feature is a succession of low and grandly swelling +ridges, or land-waves. + +On our road to Muhalala, we met hundreds of fugitives who were escaping +from the battle-grounds near Kirurumo, the natives of which were being +harassed by Nyungu, son of Mkasiwa of Unyanyembé, for expressing +sympathy with Mirambo, the warrior chief of Western Unyamwezi. + +_Jan. 6._—Muhalala is a small settlement of Wakimbu, the chief of which +declares he owes a nominal allegiance to Malewa of Mtiwi. Procuring +guides here, on the 6th of January we ascended a ridge, its face rough +with many a block of iron ore, and a scabby grey rock, on which torrents +and rains had worked wonderful changes, and within two hours arrived at +Kashongwa, a village situated on the verge of a trackless wild, peopled +by a mixture of Wasukuma, renegade Wangwana, and Wanyamwezi. We were +informed by officious Wangwana, who appeared glad to meet their +countrymen, that we were but two days’ march from Urimi. As they had no +provisions to sell, and each man and woman had two days’ rations, we +resumed our journey, accompanied by one of them as a guide, along a road +which, they informed us, would take us the day after to Urimi, and after +two hours camped near a small pool. + +_Jan. 8._—The next day we travelled over a plain which had a gradual +uplift towards the north-west, and was covered with dense, low bush. Our +path was ill-defined, as only small Wagogo caravans travelled to Urimi, +but the guide assured us that he knew the road. In this dense bush there +was not one large tree. It formed a vast carpet of scrub and brush, tall +enough to permit us to force our way among the lower branches, which +were so interwoven one with another that it sickens me almost to write +of this day’s experience. Though our march was but ten miles, it +occupied us as many hours of labour, elbowing and thrusting our way, to +the injury of our bodies and the detriment of our clothing. We camped at +5 P.M. near another small pool, at an altitude of 4350 feet above the +sea. The next day, on the afternoon of the 8th, we should have reached +Urimi, and, in order to be certain of doing so, marched fourteen miles +to still another pool at a height of 4550 feet above sea-level. Yet +still we saw no limit to this immense bush-field, and our labours had, +this day, been increased tenfold. Our guide had lost the path early in +the day, and was innocently leading us in an easterly direction! + +The responsibility of leading a half-starved expedition—as ours now +certainly was—through a dense bush, without knowing whither or for how +many days, was great; but I was compelled to undertake it rather than +see it wander eastward, where it would be hopeless to expect provisions. +The greater number of our people had consumed their rations early in the +morning. I had led it northward for hours, when we came to a large tree +to the top of which I requested the guide to ascend, to try if he could +recognise any familiar feature in the dreary landscape. After a short +examination, he declared he saw a ridge that he knew, near which, he +said, was situate the village of Uveriveri. This news stimulated our +exertions, and, myself leading the van, we travelled briskly until 5 +P.M., when we arrived at the third pool. + +Meantime Barker and the two Pococks, assisted by twenty chiefs, were +bringing up the rear, and we never suspected for a moment that the broad +track which we trampled over grass and through bush would be unperceived +by those in rear of us. The Europeans and chiefs, assisted by the +reports of heavily loaded muskets, were enabled to reach camp +successfully at 7 P.M.; but the chiefs then reported that there had not +arrived a party of four men, and a donkey boy who was leading an ass +loaded with coffee. Of these, however, there was no fear, as they had +detailed the chief Simba to oversee them, Simba having a reputation +among his fellows for fidelity, courage, and knowledge of travel. + +_Jan. 9._—The night passed, and the morning of the 9th dawned, and I +anxiously asked about the absentees. They had not arrived. But as each +hour in the jungle added to the distress of a still greater number of +people, we moved on to the miserable little village of Uveriveri. The +inhabitants consisted of only two families, who could not spare us one +grain! We might as well have remained in the jungle, for no sustenance +could be procured here. + +In this critical position, many lives hanging on my decision, I resolved +to despatch forty of the strongest men—ten chiefs and thirty of the +boldest youths—to Suna in Urimi, for the villagers of Uveriveri had of +course given us the desired information as to our whereabouts. The +distance from Uveriveri to Suna was twenty-eight miles, as we +subsequently discovered. Pinched with hunger themselves, the forty +volunteers advanced with the resolution to reach Suna that night. They +were instructed to purchase 800 lbs. of grain, which would give a light +load of 20 lbs. to each man, and urged to return as quickly as possible, +for the lives of their women and friends depended on their manliness. + +Manwa Sera was also despatched with a party of twenty to hunt up the +missing men. Late in the afternoon they returned with the news that +three of the missing men were dead. They had lost the road, and, +travelling along an elephant track, had struggled on till they perished, +of despair, hunger, and exhaustion. Simba and the donkey-boy, the ass +and its load of coffee, were never seen or heard of again. + +_Jan. 10._—With the sad prospect of starvation impending over us, we +were at various expedients to sustain life until the food purveyors +should return. Early on the morning of the 10th, I travelled far and +searched every likely place for game, but though tracks were numerous, +we failed to sight a single head. The Wangwana also roamed about the +forest—for the Uveriveri ridge was covered with fine myombo trees—in +search of edible roots and berries, and examined various trees to +discover whether they afforded anything that could allay the grievous +and bitter pangs of hunger. Some found a putrid elephant, on which they +gorged themselves, and were punished with nausea and sickness. Others +found a lion’s den, with two lion whelps, which they brought to me. +Meanwhile, Frank and I examined the medical stores, and found to our +great joy we had sufficient oatmeal to give every soul two cupfuls of +thin gruel. A “Torquay dress trunk” of sheet-iron was at once emptied of +its contents and filled with 25 gallons of water, into which were put 10 +lbs. of oatmeal and four 1-lb. tins of “revalenta arabica.” How the +people, middle-aged and young, gathered round that trunk, and heaped +fuel underneath that it might boil the quicker! How eagerly they watched +it lest some calamity should happen, and clamoured, when it was ready, +for their share, and how inexpressibly satisfied they seemed as they +tried to make the most of what they received, and with what fervour they +thanked “God” for his mercies! + +At 9 P.M., as we were about to sleep, we heard the faint sound of a gun +fired deliberately three times, and we all knew then that our young men +with food were not very far from us. The next morning, about 7 A.M., the +bold and welcome purveyors arrived in camp with just enough millet-seed +to give each soul one good meal. This the people soon despatched, and +then demanded that we should resume our journey that afternoon, so that +next morning we might reach Suna in time to forage. + +Skirting the southern base of the wooded ridge of Uveriveri, we +continued to ascend almost imperceptibly for eight miles, when we +arrived at another singular series of lofty rocks, called at once by the +Wangwana the Jiweni or “Stones.” We camped near a rocky hill 125 feet +high, from the summit of which I obtained a view of a green grassy plain +stretching towards the north. The altitude of this camp was 5250 feet +above sea-level. Towards night I shot a wild boar and a duck, but +several of the Wangwana, being strict Muslims, could not be induced to +eat the pork. From the “Stones” we came to what we had called a plain +from the summit, but what was really, from its marshy nature, more of a +quagmire. It appeared to be a great resort for elephants; thousands of +the tracks of these great animals ran in all directions. Plunging into +another jungle, we reappeared, after marching twenty miles, in the +cultivated fields of Suna; and on the verge of a coppice we constructed +a strong camp, whence we had a view of the “Stones,” which we had left +in the morning, no other eminences being visible above what appeared a +very ocean of bush. + +_Jan. 12._—Next morning there was a strange and peculiar air of +discontent, like a foreshadowing of trouble, among the natives who +appeared before our camp. They did not appear to understand us. They +were seen hurrying their women and children away, and deserting their +villages, while others hovered round our camp menacingly, carrying in +their hands a prodigious quantity of arms—spears, bows and arrows, and +knob-sticks. Trouble seemed imminent. To prevent it, if possible, I +stepped out to them with empty hands, motioned them to be seated, and, +calling an interpreter, likewise unarmed, I attempted to explain the +nature of our expedition and a few of its objects, one of which of +course was to reach Lake Victoria. To those elders who appeared to have +most influence, I gave some beads, as an expression of goodwill and +friendship. But nothing seemed to be of avail until, after close +questioning, I ascertained they had a grievance. Some of the Wangwana, +in their ravenous hunger, had plundered the grain huts, and stolen some +chickens. The natives were requested to come and point out the thieves. +They did so, and pointed their fingers at Alsassi, a notorious thief and +gourmand. Convicted of the crime after a strict examination of his +quarters by Kachéché, the chief detective, Alsassi was flogged in their +presence, not severely but sufficiently to mark my sense of extreme +displeasure. The value of the stolen food was given to the defrauded +natives, and peace and tranquillity were restored. + +The Warimi are the finest people in physique we saw between their +country and the sea. They are robust, tall, manly in bearing, and +possess very regular features. As they go stark naked, we perceived that +the males had undergone the process of circumcision. Their ornaments are +cinctures of brass wire round the loins, armlets and leglets of brass, +brass-wire collars, beads plentifully sprinkled over their hair, and +about a dozen long necklaces suspended from the neck. The war costumes +which they were wearing when I had thought that trouble was near were +curious and various. Feathers of the kite and hawk, manes of the zebra +and giraffe, encircled their foreheads. Their arms consisted of +portentous-looking spears, bows and yard-long arrows, and shields of +rhinoceros hide. The women, I imagine, are generally a shade lighter +than the men. I failed to see in a day’s examination a single flat nose +or thick lip, though they were truly negroidal in hair and colour. I +ought to have said that many shaved their heads, leaving only a thin +wavy line over the forehead. + +The rolling plain of Suna was at this season utterly devoid of grass. An +immense area was under cultivation; clusters of small villages were +sprinkled over all the prospect the eye embraced, and large flocks of +goats and sheep and herds of cattle proved that they were a pastoral as +well as an agricultural people. + +The Warimi appear to have no chief, but submit to direction by the +elders, or heads of families, who have acquired importance by judicious +alliances, and to whom they refer civil causes. In time of war, however, +as we observed the day after we arrived, they have for their elder one +who has a military reputation. This fighting elder, to whom I remarked +great deference was paid, was certainly 6½ feet in height. The species +of beads called Kanyera were, it seemed to me, most in favour; brass +wire was also in demand, but all cloth was rejected except the blue +Kaniki. + +We halted four days at Suna, as our situation was deplorable. A +constantly increasing sick list, culminating in the serious illness of +Edward Pocock, the evident restlessness of the Warimi at our presence, +who most certainly wished us anywhere except in their country, and yet +had no excuse for driving us by force from their neighbourhood, the +insufficient quantity of food that could be purchased, and the growing +importunacy of the healthy Wangwana to be led away from such a churlish +and suspicious people, plunged me in perplexity. + +We had now over thirty men ailing. Some suffered from dysentery, others +from fever, asthma, chest diseases, and heart sickness; lungs were weak, +and rheumatism had its victims. Edward Pocock, on the afternoon of the +day we arrived at Suna, came to me, and complained of pain in the loins, +a throbbing in the head—which I attributed to weariness after our +terribly long march—and a slight fever. I suggested to him that he had +better lie down and rest. Before I retired, I reminded Frank, his +brother, that he should give Edward some alterative medicine. The next +day the young man was worse. His tongue was thickly coated with a dark +fur, his face fearfully pallid, and he complained of wandering pains in +his back and knees, of giddiness and great thirst. I administered to him +sweet spirits of nitre with orange water, and a few grains of +ipecacuanha as an emetic. The fourth day he was delirious, and we were +about to sponge him with cold water, when I observed that small red +pimples with white tops covered his chest and abdomen, arms and neck. +One or two were very like small-pox pustules, which deceived me for a +time into the belief that it was a mild case of small-pox. However, by +carefully noticing the symptoms, I perceived that it was unmistakably a +case of the dreadful typhus. + +_Jan. 17._—There were two or three cases of sickness equally dangerous +in camp, but far more dangerous was the sickness of temper from which +the Warimi suffered. It became imperative that we should keep moving, if +only two or three miles a day. Accordingly, on the 17th of January, +after rigging up four hammocks, and making one especially comfortable +for Edward Pocock, roofed over with canvas, we moved from the camp +through the populated district at a very slow pace; Frank Pocock and +Fred Barker at the side of the hammock of the sick European, and a chief +and four men attending to each suffering Wangwana. Hundreds of natives +fully armed kept up with us on either side of our path. + +Never since leaving the sea were we weaker in spirit than on this day. +Had we been attacked, I doubt if we should have made much resistance. +The famine in Ugogo, and that terribly protracted trial of strength +through the jungle of Uveriveri, had utterly unmanned us; besides, we +had such a long list of sick, and Edward Pocock and three Wangwana were +dangerously ill in hammocks. We were an unspeakably miserable and +disheartened band; yet, urged by our destiny, we struggled on, though +languidly. Our spirits seemed dying, or resolving themselves into +weights which oppressed our hearts. Weary, harassed, and feeble +creatures, we arrived at Chiwyu, four hundred miles from the sea, and +camped near the crest of a hill, which was marked by aneroid as 5400 +feet above the level of the ocean. + +Edward Pocock was reported by Frank to have muttered in his delirium, +“The master has just hit it,” and to have said that he felt very +comfortable. On arriving at the camp, one of the boat sections was +elevated above him as a protection from the sun, until a cool grass hut +could be erected. A stockade was being constructed by piling a thick +fence of brushwood around a spacious circle, along which grass huts were +fast being built, when Frank entreated me to step to his brother’s side. +I sprang to him—only in time, however, to see him take his last gasp. +Frank gave a shriek of sorrow when he realised that the spirit of his +brother had fled for ever, and removing the boat section, bent over the +corpse and wailed in a paroxysm of agony. + +We excavated a grave 4 feet deep at the foot of a hoary acacia with +wide-spreading branches, and on its ancient trunk Frank engraved a deep +cross, the emblem of the faith we all believe in, and, when folded in +its shroud, we laid the body in its final resting-place during the last +gleams of sunset. We read the beautiful prayers of the church service +for the dead, and, out of respect for the departed, whose frank, +sociable, and winning manners had won their friendship and regard, +nearly all the Wangwana were present to pay a last tribute of sighs to +poor Edward Pocock. + +[Illustration: + + IN MEMORIAM + + EDWARD POCOCK + DIED JAN. 17. 1875 +] + +When the last solemn prayer had been read, we retired to our tents, to +brood in sorrow and silence over our irreparable loss. + + ---------------------------------------------------------------- + + [_To face page 92._ + +[Illustration: BURYING OUR DEAD IN HOSTILE TURU: VIEW OF OUR CAMP.] + + ---------------------------------------------------------------- + + + + + CHAPTER VI. + +From Chiwyu to Vinyata—Kaif Halleck murdered—The magic doctor—Giving + away the heart—Deeds of blood—“The white men are only women”—A three + days’ fight—Punishment of the Wanyaturu—The ubiquitous Mirambo—The + plain of the Luwamberri—In a land of plenty—Through the open country— + “I have seen the lake, sir, and it is grand!”—Welcomed at Kagehyi. + + +_Jan. 18._—We have seen no remarkable feature in the landscape since we +surmounted that steep wall of the upland which bounds Ugogo on the west. +Near its verge, it is true, it rose in steep terraces, until finally it +extended westward and northward in a broad jungle-covered plain, which +had a gradual rise, culminating in the myombo-clad slopes of the +Uveriveri ridge. While standing at Suna, we were in view of that vast +waste out of which, after terrible experience, we had emerged as it were +only with our lives. + +At Chiwyu, we camped near the loftiest altitude of the gradual and +almost unbroken rise of upland, at a height of 5400 feet. To the +northward of Suna and Chiwyu, the country, however, no longer retained +that grand unfurrowed uplift, but presented several isolated hills and +short ranges, while to the westward also we saw that it was divided into +oval basins, rimmed with low hills. From these same hollows and furrows +and basins at the base of the hills, scattered to the north and west of +Suna and Chiwyu, issue the first tiny rivulets, which, as we continue +our journey to the north-west, gradually converge to one main stream, +trending towards Lake Victoria. It is in this region, therefore, that +the most extreme southern Sources of the Nile were discovered. + +Since leaving Mpwapwa, we have not crossed one perennial stream. All +our drinking water has been obtained from pools, or shallow depressions +lately filled by rain. Between Suna and Chiwyu was crossed one small +rill flowing north-easterly, which soon afterwards joins another and +still another, and gathering volume, swerves north, then north-west. +These are the furthest springs and head-waters of a river that will +presently become known as the Leewumbu, then as the Monangah, and +lastly as the Shimeeyu, under which name it enters Lake Victoria on the +south-east coast of Speke Gulf. + +Descending into the basin of Matongo from Chiwyu with its melancholy +associations, we crossed several narrow and shallow furrows, which a few +late rains had probably caused, and came to a clear stream flowing north +through a deep rocky channel. Near this ravine was a space about a +square mile in extent, strangely torn up and exhibiting thousands of +boulders and blocks, large and small, with smooth, waterworn tops; and +the sides of what is now a small hill in the centre of the basin showed +visible traces of the action of furious torrents through centuries of +time. The hard granite was worn into cones, the tops of which bore a +calcined appearance, proving the effect of intense heat suddenly cooled +by rain. The rocky channel of this stream in the Matongo basin was a +veritable geological section. The surface consisted of massive granite +boulders imbedded in vegetable deposit; below this was a stratum of sand +about 3 feet deep, below the sand a stratum of coarse shingle of quartz, +feldspar, and porphyry, about 8 feet thick, and below this was alluvium, +resting on solid rock. + +_Jan. 20._—During these days the thermometer had seldom risen higher +than 78°; for hours during the day it stood at 66°, while at night the +mean was 63°. Seven miles from Chiwyu stand the villages of Mangura on +the borders of Ituru. Soon after leaving Mangura we ought to have +followed the left-hand road, which, after traversing a forest, would +have brought us to Mgongo Tembo, where we should have found Wangwana and +Wanyamwezi. We also discovered that we had already lost the regular path +to Usukuma at Kashongwa, which would have taken us, we were told, to +Utaturu and thence to Mgongo Tembo. But the Mangura natives, though they +were otherwise tolerant of our presence and by no means ill-disposed, +would not condescend to show us the road, and we were therefore exposed +to a series of calamities, which at one time threatened our very +existence. + +After passing Mangura, we entered Ituru. Streams now became numerous, +all flowing northward; but though such a well-watered country, the +cattle in it were poor and gaunt in frame, the dogs half starved, and +the sheep and goats mere skeletons. Only the human beings seemed to me +to be in good condition. Among the birds of this region which attracted +our attention, we noted spur-winged geese, small brown short-billed +ducks, delicate of flesh and delicious eating, long-legged plover, +snipe, cranes, herons, spoonbills, parroquets and jays, and a large +greyish-brown bird with short legs resembling a goose, and very shy and +difficult of approach. + +The language of Ituru is totally distinct from that of Ugogo or of +Unyamwezi. Besides possessing large herds of cattle, nearly every +village boasts of one or two strong Masai asses. As the Wanyaturu stood +in groups indulging their curiosity outside our camps, I observed they +had a curious habit of employing themselves in plucking the hair from +their faces and armpits. Being extremely distant in their manner, we +found it difficult to gain their confidence, though we were assiduous in +our attempts to cultivate their goodwill. + +Izanjeh was our next camp after Mangura, and the first place we halted +at in Ituru. It was 5450 feet above the sea. + +On leaving Izanjeh, Kaif Halleck, the bearer of the letter-bag to +Livingstone in 1871, was afflicted with asthma, and as we were compelled +to travel slowly, I entreated him not to lag behind the Expedition while +it traversed such a dangerous country. But I have observed that sick men +seldom heed advice. Being obliged to go forward to the front during +these evil and trying days, I had to leave the rearguard under Frank +Pocock and Fred Barker and the Wangwana chiefs. As my duties would be +mainly to introduce and ingratiate our expedition with the natives, I +could not possibly know what happened in the rear until we reached camp, +and reports were made to me by Frank and Manwa Sera. + +_Jan. 21._—From the top of a ridge, accompanied by a guide whose +goodwill had been secured by me, I descended to the basin of what the +Wangwana at Mgongo Tembo call Vinyata, but which the guide, I feel +assured, called Niranga. The basin is oval, about twelve miles long by +six miles wide, cut through the centre by the Leewumbu, as it flows in a +W.N.W. direction, becoming lost, soon after leaving the basin, in a +cluster of woodclad hills. Numbers of villages are sprinkled over it +from end to end, and from the summit of the ridge we guessed it to +contain a populous and wealthy community. On the evening of the same +day, the 21st of January 1875, we arrived at Vinyata. + +There was nothing in the horizon of our daily life that the most fearful +and timid could have considered ominous. Nevertheless, consistent with +custom, the camp was constructed on the summit of a slightly swelling +ground, between a forest and the fields in the basin. The people of the +small village nearest to us deserted it upon first sight of our party, +but they were finally persuaded to return. Everything promised at night +to be peaceful, though anxiety began to be felt about the fate of Kaif +Halleck. He had not been seen for two days. Some suggested he had +deserted, but “faithfuls” rarely desert upon mere impulse, without +motive or cause. It was necessary therefore to halt a day at Vinyata to +despatch a searching party. Manwa Sera was told to take four staunch +men, one of whom was the scout and famous detective, Kachéché, to hunt +up the sick “letter-carrier of 1871.” + +During Manwa Sera’s absence, Frank, Barker, and myself were occupied in +reducing our loads, and rejecting every article that we could possibly +subsist without. Our sick were many, twenty had died, and eighty-nine +had deserted, between the coast and Vinyata! + +While examining the cloth bales, we discovered that several were wet +from the excessive rains of Ugogo, and to save them from being ruined, +it was imperative, though impolitic, that we should spread the cloths to +dry. In the midst of this work the great magic doctor of Vinyata came to +pay me a visit, bringing with him a fine fat ox as a peace offering. +Being the first we had received since leaving Kitalalo, we regarded it +as a propitious omen, and I showed by my warmth toward the ancient +Mganga that I was ready to reciprocate his kindness. He was introduced +to my tent, and after being sociably entertained with exceedingly sweet +coffee and some of Huntley and Palmer’s best and sweetest biscuits, he +was presented with fifteen cloths, thirty necklaces, and ten yards of +brass wire, which repaid him fourfold for his ox. Trivial things, such +as empty sardine boxes, soup and bouilli pots, and empty jam tins, were +successively bestowed on him as he begged for them. The horizon appeared +clearer than ever, when he entreated me to go through the process of +blood-brotherhood, which I underwent with all the ceremonious gravity of +a pagan. As he was finally departing, he saw preparations being made to +despatch the ox, and he expressed his desire that the heart of the +animal should be returned to him. While he stayed for it, I observed +with uneasiness that he and his following cast lingering glances upon +the cloths which were drying in camp. + +During the day the Wangwana received several days’ back rations, towards +repairing the havoc which the jungle of Uveriveri and famine-stricken +Ugogo had effected in their frames, and our intercourse with the natives +this day was most friendly. But before retiring for the night, Manwa +Sera and his scouts returned with the report that “Kaif Halleck’s” dead +body had been discovered, gashed with over thirty wounds, on the edge of +a wood between Izanjeh and Vinyata! + +“We cannot help it, my friends,” I said after a little deliberation. “We +can mourn for him, but we cannot avenge him. Go and tell the people to +take warning from his fate not to venture too far from the camp, and +when on the march not to lag behind the caravan; and you, who are the +chiefs and in charge of the rear, must not again leave a sick man to +find his way unprotected to camp.” + +_Jan. 22._—The next day the magic doctor appeared about 8 A.M. to +receive another present, and as he brought with him about a quart of +curded milk, he was not disappointed. He also received a few beads for +his wife and for each of his children. We parted about 9.30 A.M., after +shaking hands many times, apparently mutually pleased with each other. +No mention was made to any native of Vinyata of the murder of Kaif +Halleck, lest it might be suspected we charged our new friends with +being cognisant of, or accessory to, the cruel deed, which would, +without doubt, have caused new complications. + +Half an hour after the departure of the magic doctor, while many of the +Wangwana were absent purchasing grain, and others were in the forest +collecting faggots, we heard war-cries. Imagining that they were the +muster-call to resist their neighbours of Izanjeh, or of some tribe to +the east, we did not pay much attention to them. However, as these +peculiar war-cries, which may be phonetically rendered “Hehu-a-hehu,” +appeared to draw nearer, we mustered a small party on the highest ground +of the camp, in an attitude of doubt and inquiry, and presently saw a +large body of natives armed with spears, bows and arrows, and shields, +appear within a hundred yards on a similar high-ground outside the camp. +The sight suggested to us that they had mustered against us, yet I could +divine no cause of grievance or subject of complaint to call forth a +warlike demonstration. + +I despatched two unarmed messengers to them to inquire what their +intentions were, and to ascertain the object of this apparently hostile +mob. The messengers halted midway between the camp and the crowd, and +sitting down, invited two of the natives to advance to them for a +“shauri.” + +We soon discovered upon the return of the messengers that one of the +Wangwana had stolen some milk, and that the natives had been aroused to +“make war”[7] upon us because of the theft. They were sent back to +inform the natives that war was wicked and unjust for such a small +crime, and to suggest that they should fix a price upon the milk, and +permit us to atone for the wrong with a handsome gift. After some +deliberation the proposition was agreed to. A liberal present of cloth +was made, and the affair had apparently terminated. + +But as this mob was about to retire peacefully, another large force +appeared from the north. A consultation ensued, at first quietly enough, +but there were one or two prominent figures there, who raised their +voices, the loud, sharp, and peremptory tones of which instinctively +warned me that their owners would carry the day. There was a bellicose +activity about their movements, an emphasis in their gestures, and a +determined wrathful fury about the motion of head and pose of body that +were unmistakable. They appeared to be quarrelling doggedly with those +who had received cloth for the milk, and were evidently ready to fight +with them if they persisted in retiring without bloodshed. + +In the midst of this, Soudi, a youth of Zanzibar, came hastily upon the +scene. He had a javelin gash near the right elbow joint, and a slight +cut as though from a flying spear was visible on his left side, while a +ghastly wound from a whirling knobstick had laid open his temples. He +reported his brother Suliman as lying dead near the forest, to the west +of the camp. + +We decided, nevertheless, to do nothing. We were strong disciples of the +doctrine of forbearance, for it seemed to me then as if Livingstone had +taught it to me only the day before. “Keep silence,” I said: “even for +this last murder I shall not fight; when they attack the camp, it will +be time enough then.” To Frank I simply said that he might distribute +twenty rounds of ammunition without noise to each man, and dispose our +party on either side of the gate, ready for a charge should the natives +determine upon attacking us. + +The loudly arguing mob had not yet settled conclusively what they should +do, and possibly hostilities might have been averted, had not the +murderers of young Suliman, advancing red-handed and triumphant, +extorted from all the unanimous opinion that it would be better after +all to fight “the cowardly Wangwana and the white men, who were +evidently only women.” + +They quickly disposed themselves, delivered loud whoops of triumph, +prepared their bows, and shot their first arrows. The Wangwana became +restless, but I restrained them. Perceiving no sign of life in our camp, +the Wanyaturu judged, doubtless, that we were half dead with fright, and +advanced boldly to within thirty yards, when the word was given to the +Wangwana and Wanyamwesi, who rushed outside and, by the very momentum of +the rush, drove the savages to a distance of 200 yards. The Wangwana +were then ordered to halt, and deployed as skirmishers. + +We still waited without firing. The savages, not comprehending this +extraordinary forbearance, advanced once more. The interpreters were +requested to warn them that we should delay no longer. They replied, “Ye +are women, ye are women; go, ask Mirambo how he fared in Ituru,” saying +which they twanged their bows. It was only then, perceiving that they +were too savage to understand the principles of forbearance, that the +final word to “fight” was given. A brisk encounter was maintained for an +hour, and then, having driven the savages away, the Wangwana were +recalled to camp. + +Meanwhile Frank was busy with sixty men armed with axes in constructing +a strong stockade, and on the return of the Wangwana they were employed +in building marksmen’s “nests” at each corner of the camp. We also +cleared the ground to the space of 200 yards around the camp. By night +our camp was secure, and perfectly defensible. + +_Jan. 24._—On the morning of the 24th we waited patiently in our camp. +Why should we attack? We were wretched enough as it was without seeking +to add to our wretchedness. We numbered only seventy effective men, for +all the others were invalids, frightened porters, women, donkey-boys, +and children. The sick list was alarming, but, try how we might, the +number was not to be reduced. While we lived from hand to mouth on a few +grains of corn a day, after a month’s experience of famine fare, our +plight must not only remain pitiable, but become worse. We were +therefore in a mood to pray that we might not be attacked, but permitted +to leave the camp in safety. + +At 9 A.M., however, the enemy appeared, reinforced both in numbers and +confidence, for the adjoining districts on the north and east had been +summoned to the “war.” This word means now, as is evident, daily attacks +upon our camp, with forces hourly increasing, until we shall have also +perhaps strange tribes to the westward invited to the extermination of +the strangers, and ourselves be in the meantime penned in our hold until +hunger reduces us to surrender, to be butchered without mercy. + +Our position, as strangers in a hostile country, is such that we cannot +exist as a corporate expedition, unless we resist with all our might and +skill, in order to terminate hostilities and secure access to the +western country. We therefore wait until they advance upon our camp, and +drive them from its vicinity, as we did the day before. In half an hour +our people are back, and organised into four detachments of ten men each +under their separate chiefs, two more detachments of ten men each being +held in reserve, and one other, of ten also, detailed for the defence of +the camp. They are instructed to proceed in skirmishing order in +different directions through the hostile country, and to drive the +inhabitants out wherever they find them lodged, to a distance of five +miles east and north, certain rocky hills, the rendezvous of the foe, +being pointed out as the place where they must converge. Messengers are +sent with each detachment to bring me back information. + +The left detachment, under chief Farjalla Christie, were soon thrown +into disorder, and were killed to a man except the messenger who brought +us the news, imploring for the reserve, as the enemy were now +concentrated on the second detachment. Manwa Sera was therefore +despatched with fifteen men, and arrived at the scene only in time to +save eight out of the second detachment. The third plunged boldly on, +but lost six of its number; the fourth, under chief Safeni, behaved +prudently and well, and, as fast as each enclosed village was taken, set +it on fire. But ten other men despatched to the scene retrieved what the +third had lost, and strengthened Safeni. + +About 4 P.M. the Wangwana returned, bringing with them oxen, goats, and +grain for food. Our losses in this day’s proceedings were twenty-one +soldiers and one messenger killed, and three wounded. + +_Jan. 25._—On the morning of the 25th we waited until 9 A.M., again +hoping that the Wanyaturu would see the impolicy of renewing the fight; +but we were disappointed, for they appeared again, and apparently as +numerous as ever. After some severe volleys we drove them off again on +the third day, but upon the return of the Wangwana, instead of dividing +them into detachments I instructed them to proceed in a compact body. +Some of the porters volunteered to take the place of the soldiers who +perished the previous day, and we were therefore able to show still a +formidable front. All the villages in our neighbourhood being first +consumed, they continued their march, and finally attacked the rocky +hill, which the Wanyaturu had adopted as a stronghold, and drove them +flying precipitately into the neighbouring country, where they did not +follow them. + +We knew now that we should not be disturbed. Some of the guns, lost +the day before, we recaptured. On reckoning up our loss on the evening +of the third day, we ascertained it to be twenty-two men killed, three +men wounded, twelve guns lost, and four cases of ammunition expended. +Including Kaif Halleck and Suliman murdered, our losses in Ituru were +therefore twenty-four men killed and four wounded, and as we had +twenty-five on the sick-list, it may be imagined that to replace these +fifty-three men great sacrifices were necessary on the part of the +survivors, and much ingenuity had to be exercised. Twelve loads were +accordingly placed on the asses, and ten chiefs were detailed to carry +baggage until we should arrive at Usukuma. Much miscellaneous property +was burned, and on the morning of the 26th, just before daybreak, we +resumed our interrupted journey. + +The expedition on this day consisted of three Europeans, 206 Wangwana +and Wanyamwezi, twenty-five women, and six boys. At 9.30 A.M. we camped +at a place which might be called a natural fortress. To our right and +left rose two little hills 100 feet high and almost perpendicular. +Behind us dropped a steep slope 400 feet down to the Leewumbu river, so +that the only way of access was the narrow gap through which we had +entered. We soon closed the gateway with a dense wall of brushwood, and +in perfect security lay down to rest. + +This camp was at an altitude of 5650 feet above the ocean, and due west +of Vinyata about ten miles. On one side of us was the deep-wooded valley +through which the rapid Leewumbu rushes. Its banks on each side slope +steeply upward, and at the top become detached hills clothed with +forest; from their base wave the uplands in grand and imposing wooded +ridges. North of the Leewumbu the hills are bolder than those to the +south. + +_Jan. 27._—On the 27th, at dawn, we crossed the Leewumbu, and the whole +of that day and the day following our route was through a forest of fine +myombo, intersected by singular narrow plains, forming at this season of +the year so many quagmires. Other features of this region were enormous +bare rocks, looming like castles through the forest, and hillocks +composed of great fragments of splintered granite and broad heaving +humps of grey gneiss. One of these singular features of this part of +Africa gives its name to Mgongo Tembo, “The Elephant’s Back.” Far to the +south is a similar hill, which I passed by during the first expedition; +and its chief, emigrating to Iramba, has bestowed upon a like feature at +the site of his new colony the name of his former village, to remind him +of old associations. + +_Jan. 29._—On the 29th we entered Mgongo Tembo, and became acquainted +with the chief, who is also known by the fantastic name which he has +given his new quarters, though his real name is Malewa. He is a strong +conservative, dislikes innovations, declares young men nowadays to be +too fond of travel, and will not allow his sons—he has sixteen—to visit +either Unyanyembé or Zanzibar lest they should learn bad habits. He is a +hearty, jovial soul, kindly disposed if let alone. He has lately emerged +triumphantly out of a war with Maganga of Rubuga, an ally of the famous +Mirambo. + +It had been an object with me at one time to steer clear of Mirambo, but +as I recognised and became impressed with his ubiquitous powers, I +failed to perceive how the system of exploration I had planned could be +effected if I wandered great distances out of his way. On the first +expedition some of my people perished in a conflict with him, and on +returning with Livingstone to Unyanyembé, we heard of him dealing +effective blows with extraordinary rapidity on his Arab and native foes. +Since leaving Ugogo, we heard daily of him on this expedition. He was +one day advancing upon Kirirumo, at another place he was on our flanks +somewhere in Utaturu. He fought with Ituru, and, according to Mgongo +Tembo’s chief, lost 1100 men two months before we entered the country. +Mgongo Tembo, who kept a wary eye upon the formidable chief’s movements, +informed us that Mirambo was in front of us, fighting the Wasukuma. +Mgongo Tembo further said, in explanation of the unprovoked attacks of +the Wanyaturu upon us, that we ought not to have bestowed the heart of +the presented ox upon the magic doctor of Vinyata, as by the loss of +that diffuser of blood, the Wanyaturu believed we had left our own +bodies weakened and would be an easy prey to them. “The Wanyaturu are +robbers, and sons of robbers,” said he fiercely, after listening to the +recital of our experiences in Ituru. + +_Feb. 1._—On the 1st of February, after a very necessary halt of two +days at Mgongo Tembo, with an addition to our force of eight pagazis and +two guides, and encouraged by favourable reports of the country in +front, we entered Mangura in Usukuma near a strange valley which +contained a forest of borassus palms. In the beds of the several streams +we crossed this day we observed granite boulders, blue shale, basalt, +porphyry and quartz. + +Beyond Mangura, or about six miles west of it, was situate Igira, a +sparse settlement overlooking the magnificent plain of Luwamberri, at an +altitude by boiling-point of 5350 feet. A camp which we established in +this plain, was ascertained with the same apparatus to be 4475 feet. Ten +miles farther, near a sluggish ditch-like creek, the boiling-point +showed 4250 feet, only 100 feet higher than Lake Victoria. + +As far as Igira the myombo flourished, but when we descended into the +plain, and the elevation above the sea decreased to 4000 feet, we +discovered that the baobab became the principal feature of the +vegetation, giving place soon after to thorny acacias and a variety of +scrub, succeeded in their turn by a vast expanse of tawny grass. + +The Luwamberri plain—with its breadth of nearly forty miles, its +indefinite length of level reach towards the N.N.W., its low altitude +above the Victorian Lake, the wave-worn slopes of the higher elevations +which hem it on the east and the south—appears to me to have been in +ancient times a long arm of the great lake which was our prospective +goal at this period. About sixteen miles from Igira there is a small +sluggish stream with an almost imperceptible current northward, but +though it was insignificant at the time of our crossing, there were +certain traces on the tall grass to show that during the middle of the +rainy season it is nearly a mile broad, and very deep. Several nullahs +or ravines with stagnant water, when followed up, prove to have their +exit in the broad channel. + +In the centre of the level plain rises a curious elevation, like an +island crowned with a grove, whither the game with which the plain teems +resort during the wet season. At the period of our crossing, however, +they roved in countless numbers over the plain—giraffe, zebra, gnu, +buffalo, springbok, water-buck, kudu, hartebeest, wild-boar, and several +varieties of smaller antelope; while birds abounded, ibis, field-larks, +fish-hawks, kingfishers, spur-winged geese, ducks, vultures, flamingoes, +spoonbills, and cranes. + +With such a variety before them, it may readily be conceived that the +Wangwana and Wanyamwezi which now numbered, with the accessions to our +strength gained at Mangura and Igira, 280 men, earnestly hoped that I +should be successful in the sport to which I now devoted myself with the +aid of my faithful factotum Billali. One day I shot a giraffe and a +small antelope; on the next, in the neighbourhood of the woody elevation +in the plain, five zebra; and the third day on the western verge, I shot +two gnu, one buffalo, and a zebra, besides bagging two spur-winged +geese, four guinea-fowl, and five ducks. Meat was now a drug in our +camp. It was cooked in various styles, either stewed, roasted, fried, or +pounded for cakes. Some of the Wanyamwezi carried, besides their cloth +bale of 60 lbs. weight, nearly 35 lbs. of dried meat. + +_Feb. 2._—On the western verge of the grassy plain we crossed the Itawa +river, a broad but sluggish stream choked with grass, and camped in a +locality which seemed to be favourable only to the production of baobab +and mimosa. After a few hours’ travel west of the Itawa, we crossed the +Gogo river with a course N.N.E. towards the Luwamberri plain. Here we +arrived at the easternmost of a chain of low hills with truncated tops. +These hills, pleasant to the eye, and covered with waving grass and a +sprinkling of thin dwarf bush, consisted of silicious feldspathic rock, +the stratification of which was vertical, in other parts diagonal, with +a dip to the north-west. The slopes of the hills were thickly covered +with detached pieces of this rock, and at the base with shingle. The +plain beneath, close to the vicinity of the hills, had extensive beds of +the same rock, which, in places, rose above it, exposed in great sheets. + +_Feb. 9._—On the 9th of February we crossed the Nanga ravine, and the +next day, by a gradual ascent, arrived at the Seligwa, flowing to the +Leewumbu, and, after following it for four miles, reached the hospitable +village of Mombiti. We had fairly entered the rich country of Usukuma, +where the traveller, if he has resources at his disposal, need never +fear starvation. + +The products of the rich upland were here laid at our feet, and it must +be conceded that the plenteous stores of grain, beans, potatoes, +vetches, sesamum, millet, vegetables, such as melons and various garden +herbs, honey, and tobacco, which we were enabled to purchase at Mombiti, +were merited by the members of the long-enduring expedition. The number +of chickens and goats that were slaughtered by the people was enormous. +Long arrears of rewards were due to them for the many signal examples of +worth they had shown; and here I earned anew the flattering appellation +bestowed upon me three years previously in Africa—“The white man with +the open hand”—“Huyu Msungu n’u fungua mikono.” + +With the rewards they received, the Wangwana and Wanyamwezi, men, women, +and children, revelled in the delights of repleted stomachs, and the +voice of the gaunt monster, Hunger, was finally hushed. In festive +rejoicings and inordinate fulness we spent three days at Mombiti. + +A fresh troop of porters was here engaged to relieve the long-suffering +people, and with renewed spirits and rekindled vigour, and with reserve +stores of luxuries on our shoulders, we plunged into the jungle in +the direction of the Monangah valley and Usiha, in preference to the +ever-troubled route by Usanda, Nguru, and Masari. Mirambo, it was +reported, was also in the neighbourhood of Masari, and hovering about +our path like a phantom. + +_Feb. 14._—During the second day’s march from Mombiti, Gardner, one of +the faithful followers of Livingstone during his last journey, succumbed +to a severe attack of typhoid fever. We conveyed the body to camp, and +having buried him, raised a cairn of stones over his grave at the +junction of two roads, one leading to Usiha, the other to Iramba. His +last words were, “I know I am dying. Let my money (370 dollars), which +is in charge of Tarya Topan of Zanzibar, be divided. Let a half be given +to my friend Chumah, and a half be given to these my friends—pointing to +the Wangwana—that they may make the mourning-feast.” In honour of this +faithful, the camp is called after his name—“Camp Gardner.” + +A gradual descent from the ridges and wavy upland brought us to the +broad, brown valley of the Leewumbu, or the Monangah river, as the +Wasukuma now called the river. At the ford in this season the Monangah +was 30 yards wide and 3 feet deep, with a current of about a mile an +hour, but discoloured marks high above its present level denote a +considerable rise during the rainy season. A few hills on the south bank +showed the same features of the silicified feldspathic rock visible near +the Gogo stream. Giraffe were numerous, feeding on the dwarf acacia, but +the country was too open to permit my approaching them. However, I +succeeded in dropping a stray springbok in a hunting excursion which I +made in the evening. + +On leaving the Monangah, we struck northerly across a pathless country +seamed with elephant tracks, rhinoceros wallows, and gullies which +contained pools of grey muddy water. Four miles from the river, Kirira +Peak bore W.N.W., Usanda west by north, Wanhinni N.N.W., and Samui west +by south. A chain of hill-cones ran from Samui to Wanhinni. + +_Feb. 17._—Surmounting a ridge which bounded the valley of the Monangah +on the north, and following its crest westerly, we arrived on the +morning of the 17th of February at Eastern Usiha. When in sight of their +conical cotes, we despatched one of our native guides ahead, to warn the +natives that a caravan of Wangwana was approaching, and to bear messages +of peace and goodwill. But in his absence, one of the Kinyamwezi asses +set up a terrific braying, which nearly created serious trouble. It +appears that on one of his former raids the terrible Mirambo possessed a +Kinyamwezi ass which also brayed, and, like the geese of the Roman +Capitol, betrayed the foe. Hence the natives insisted, despite the +energetic denial of our guide, that this ass must also belong to +Mirambo, and for a short period he was in a perilous state. They seized +and bound him, and would probably have despatched him had not the +village scouts returned laughing heartily at the fright the vicious ass +had caused. + +Usiha is the commencement of a most beautiful pastoral country, which +terminates only in the Victoria Nyanza. From the summit of one of the +weird grey rock piles which characterise it, one may enjoy that +unspeakable fascination of an apparently boundless horizon. On all sides +there stretches toward it the face of a vast circle replete with +peculiar features, of detached hills, great crag-masses of riven and +sharply angled rock, and outcropping mounds, between which heaves and +rolls in low, broad waves a green grassy plain whereon feed thousands of +cattle scattered about in small herds. + +As fondly as the Wangwana with their suffering vitals lingered over +their meals in the days of plenty at Mombiti, so fondly did I gloat over +this expanding extent, rich in contrasts and pleasing surprises. Fresh +from the tawny plains of Monangah, with its thirsty and sere aspect, I +was as gratified as though I possessed the wand of an enchanter, and had +raised around me the verdant downs of Sussex. I seated myself apart, on +the topmost grey rock. Only my gunbearer was near me, and he always +seemed intuitively to know my moods. I revelled therefore undisturbed in +the bland and gracious prospect. The voices of the Wangwana came to me +now and again faint by distance, and but for this I might, as I sat +there, have lost myself in the delusion that all the hideous past and +beautiful present was a dream. + +After the traveller has performed his six hundred miles from the ocean +to Usiha, however phlegmatic he may be, he will surely glow with +pleasure when he views this fair scene of promise. The delicious smell +of cattle and young grass comes up from the plain quick, and reminds +one of home-farm memories, of milk and cheese, and secret dippings +into cream-pots, and from the staked bomas and the hedge-encircled +villages there rise to my hearing the bleating of young calves, and the +lowing of the cows as they looked interested towards the village, and I +could see flocks of kids and goats, and sheep with jealously watchful +shepherd-boys close by—the whole prospect so peaceful and idyllic that +it made a strangely affecting impression on me. + +_Feb. 19._—Daybreak of the 19th of February saw the refreshed Expedition +winding up and down the rolling pasture-land, escorted by hundreds of +amiable natives who exchanged pleasant jests with our people, and +laughed recklessly and boisterously to show us that they were glad we +had visited their country. “Come yet again,” said they, as they turned +to go back after escorting us three miles on our way. “Come always, and +you will be welcome.” + +We thoroughly enjoyed marching with such a broad prospect on either +hand. We felt free, and for the first time enjoyed something of the +lordly feeling to which it is said man is born, but to which we had +certainly been strangers between the ocean and the grassy plains of +Usukuma. One half the distance, it appears to me, we had ploughed our +way through the lower regions of vegetation—the dense intermeshed tangle +of a full-grown jungle—or we had crawled about like an army of ants, +with the ordinary grasses of the maritime lands, the Luwamberri and the +Monangah plains, towering like a forest of cane above our heads. The +myombo forests of Uveriveri, and wood-clad ridges—drained by the +crystal-clear streams and rivulets which supply the furthest waters to +Egypt’s sacred river—though tolerably open, did not inspire us with such +a large, indescribable sense of freedom as the open short-grass lands in +which we now found ourselves. + +A fair idea of the rugged rock-heaps which relieved a landscape that +might otherwise have been monotonous may be obtained from the photograph +of Wezi’s rocks. They are extremely picturesque from their massiveness +and eccentricity, which distance increases and charms into ruined +castles or antique human dwellings. + +Villages were numerous between Usiha and Wandui. Sweet springs bubbled +from all sides, especially from the opposing bases of the granite ridges +which, like walls, flank the broad natural avenue, at the upper end of +which stands the capital of the king of Usiha, shaded by glorious baobab +and bowery masses of milk-weed. + +_Feb. 20._—As we were marching from Wandui to Mondo, on the 20th of +February, we were once again mistaken by the warlike natives for +Mirambo, but the mistake went no further than war-cries, long, loud, and +melodious, caught up by hundreds of clear voices, and a demonstrative +exhibition of how they would have exterminated us had we been really and +truly Mirambo. In proportion as Mirambo haunts their vicinity, so do the +natives appear to be possessed and disturbed. Wandui and Usiha become +suddenly exercised at seeing their cattle run frightened from some +prowling beast, and immediately the cry of “Mirambo, Mirambo!” is +raised, and from every height the alarming cry is echoed, until from +Usiha to Usanda, and from Masari north to Usmau, the dread name is +repeated. Then two neighbours, finding it was a mistake, quarrel with +each other, and begin fighting, and in the midst of their local war +Mirambo veritably appears, as though from the ground, and attacks both. + +North of Mondo, as far as Abaddi, or Baddi—sometimes Abatti—the country +rolled, clear and open, like a treeless park, with scarcely a single +shrub or tree. The grass was only an inch high. The rock-crowned hills +were, however, still frequent features. All the male adults of Abaddi +stalked about stark naked, but their women were clad with stiff skins +and half tanned cowhides. The herds of cattle and flocks of goats and +sheep absolutely whitened the glorious park country. + +The following brief list of prices will serve to illustrate this +extraordinary land of plenty:— + + _Prices at Abaddi._ + + 1 ox 6 yards of sheeting. + + 1 goat 2 ” ” + + 1 sheep 2 ” ” + + 1 chicken 1 necklace. + + 6 chickens 2 yards of sheeting. + + 40 kubaba of Mtama 4 ” ” + + + _Prices in Ugogo._ + + 1 ox 48 yards of sheeting. + + 1 goat 12 ” ” + + 1 sheep 10 ” ” + + 1 chicken From 5 to 10 + necklaces. + + 6 chickens 12 yards of sheeting. + + 40 kubaba of Mtama 16 ” ” + +The villages of this part of Usukuma are surrounded by hedges of +euphorbias, milk-weed, the juice of which is most acrid, and when a drop +is spattered over such a tender organ as the eye, the pain is almost +intolerable. My poor bull-terrier “Jack,” while chasing a mongoose into +one of these hedges, quite lost the use of one eye. + +_Feb. 22._—Our next camp was Marya, fifteen miles north by east Mag. +from Mondo, and 4800 feet above the sea. We were still in view of the +beautiful rolling plain, with its rock-crested hills, and herds of +cattle, and snug villages, but the people, though Wasukuma, were the +noisiest and most impudent of any we had yet met. One of the chiefs +insisted on opening the door of the tent while I was resting after the +long march. I heard the tent-boys remonstrate with him, but did not +interfere until the chief forcibly opened the door, when the bull-dogs +“Bull” and “Jack,” who were also enjoying a well-earned repose, sprang +at him suddenly and pinned his hands. The terror of the chief was +indescribable, as he appeared to believe that the white man in the tent +had been transformed into two ferocious dogs, so little was he prepared +for such a reception. I quickly released him from his position, and won +his gratitude and aid in restoring the mob of natives to a more moderate +temper. + +_Feb. 24._—A march of seventeen miles north by west across a waterless +jungle brought us on the 24th to South Usmau. Native travellers in this +country possess native bells of globular form with which, when setting +out on a journey, they ring most alarming though not inharmonious +sounds, to waken the women to their daily duties. + +The journey to Hulwa in North Usmau was begun by plunging through a +small forest at the base of some rocky hills which had been distinctly +visible from Marya, thirty-one miles south. A number of monkeys lined +their summits, gazing contemptuously at the long string of bipeds +condemned to bear loads. We then descended into a broad and populous +basin, wherein villages with their milk-weed hedges appeared to be only +so many verdant circlets. Great fragments and heaps of riven granite, +gneiss, and trap rock, were still seen cresting the hills in irregular +forms. + +Through a similar scene we travelled to Gambachika in North Usmau, which +is at an altitude of 4600 feet above the sea, and fourteen miles from +Hulwa. As we approached the settlement, we caught a glimpse to the far +north of the mountains of Urirwi, and to the north-east of the Manassa +heights which, we were informed by the natives, formed the shores of the +Great Lake. + +_Feb. 27._—On the morning of the 27th of February we rose up early, and +braced ourselves for the long march of nineteen miles, which terminated +at 4 P.M. at the village of Kagehyi. + +The people were as keenly alive to the importance of this day’s march, +and as fully sensitive to what this final journey to Kagehyi promised +their wearied frames, as we Europeans. They, as well as ourselves, +looked forward to many weeks of rest from our labours and to an +abundance of good food. + +When the bugle sounded the signal to “Take the road,” the Wanyamwezi and +Wangwana responded to it with cheers, and loud cries of “Ay, indeed, ay, +indeed, please God;” and their goodwill was contagious. The natives, who +had mustered strongly to witness our departure, were affected by it, and +stimulated our people by declaring that the lake was not very far off— +“but two or three hours’ walk.” + +[Illustration: MNYAMWEZI PAGAZI.] + +We dipped into the basins and troughs of the land, surmounted ridge +after ridge, crossed watercourses and ravines, passed by cultivated +fields, and through villages smelling strongly of cattle, by +good-natured groups of natives, until, ascending a long gradual slope, +we heard, on a sudden, hurrahing in front, and then we too, with the +lagging rear, knew that those in the van were in view of the Great Lake! + +Frank Pocock impetuously strode forward until he gained the brow of the +hill. He took a long sweeping look at something, waved his hat, and came +down towards us, his face beaming with joy, as he shouted out +enthusiastically with the fervour of youth and high spirits, “I have +seen the Lake, Sir, and it is grand!” Frederick Barker, riding painfully +on an ass, and sighing wearily from illness and the length of the +journey, lifted his head to smile his thanks to his comrade. + +Presently we also reached the brow of the hill, where we found the +expedition halted, and the first quick view revealed to us a long broad +arm of water, which a dazzling sun transformed into silver, some 600 +feet below us, at the distance of three miles. + +A more careful and detailed view of the scene showed us that the hill on +which we stood sloped gradually to the broad bay or gulf edged by a line +of green wavy reeds and thin groves of umbrageous trees scattered along +the shore, on which stood several small villages of conical huts. Beyond +these, the lake stretched like a silvery plain far to the eastward, and +away across to a boundary of dark blue hills and mountains, while +several grey rocky islets mocked us at first with an illusion of Arab +dhows with white sails. The Wanyamwezi struck up the song of triumph:— + + Sing, O friends, sing; the journey is ended: + Sing aloud, O friends; sing to the great Nyanza. + Sing all, sing loud, O friends, sing to the great sea; + Give your last look to the lands behind and then turn to the sea. + + Long time ago you left your lands, + Your wives and children, your brothers and your friends; + Tell me, have you seen a sea like this + Since you left the great salt sea? + + CHORUS. + + Then sing, O friends, sing; the journey is ended: + Sing aloud, O friends; sing to this great sea. + + This sea is fresh, is good, and sweet; + Your sea is salt, and bad, unfit to drink. + This sea is like wine to drink for thirsty men, + The salt sea—bah! it makes men sick. + + Lift up your heads, O men, and gaze around; + Try if you can see its end. + See, it stretches moons away, + This great, sweet, fresh-water sea. + + We come from Usukuma land, + The land of pastures, cattle, sheep and goats, + The land of braves, warriors, and strong men, + And lo! this is the far-known Usukuma sea. + + Ye friends, ye scorned at us in other days. + Ah, ha! Wangwana. What say ye now? + Ye have seen the land, its pastures and its herds, + Ye now see the far-known Usukuma sea. + + Kaduma’s land is just below; + He is rich in cattle, sheep, and goats. + The Msungu is rich in cloth and beads; + His hand is open, and his heart is free. + To-morrow the Msungu must make us strong + With meat and beer, wine and grain. + We shall dance and play the livelong day, + And eat and drink, and sing and play. + +I have in the above (as literal a translation as I can render it) made +no attempt at rhyme—nor, indeed, did the young, handsome, and stalwart +Corypheus who delivered the harmonious strains with such startling +effect. The song, though extemporised, was eminently dramatic, and when +the chorus joined in, it made the hills ring with a wild and strange +harmony. Reanimated by the cheerful music, we flung the flags to the +breeze, and filed slowly down the slopes towards the fields of Kagehyi. + +[Illustration: + + VIEW OF KAGEHYI FROM THE EDGE OF THE LAKE. + (_From a photograph._) +] + +About half a mile from the villages we were surprised by seeing hundreds +of warriors decked with feathered head-dresses and armed to the teeth, +advancing on the run towards us, and exhibiting, as they came, their +dexterity with bows and arrows and spears. They had at first been +alarmed at the long procession filing down the hill, imagining that we +were the ubiquitous Mirambo and his force, but, though discovering their +error, they still thought it too good an opportunity to be lost for +showing their bravery, and therefore amused us with this byplay. Sungoro +Tarib, an Arab resident at Kagehyi, also despatched a messenger with +words of welcome, and an invitation to us to make Kagehyi our camp, as +Prince Kaduma, chief of Kagehyi, was his faithful ally. + +In a short time we had entered the wretched-looking village, and Kaduma +was easily induced by Sungoro to proffer hospitalities to the strangers. +A small conical hut about 20 feet in diameter, badly lighted, and with a +strong smell of animal matter—its roof swarmed with bold rats, which, +with a malicious persistence, kept popping in and out of their nests in +the straw roof and rushing over the walls—was placed at my disposal as a +store-room. Another small hut was presented to Frank Pocock and Fred +Barker as their quarters. + +[Illustration: + + FRANK POCOCK. + (_From a photograph by the Author at Kagehyi._) +] + +In summing up, during the evening of our arrival at this rude village on +the Nyanza, the number of statute miles travelled by us, as measured by +two rated pedometers and pocket watch, I ascertained it to be 720. The +time occupied—from November 17, 1874, to February 27, 1875, inclusive— +was 103 days, divided into 70 marching and 33 halting days, by which it +will be perceived that our marches averaged a little over 10 miles per +day. But as halts are imperative, the more correct method of +ascertaining the rate of travel would be to include the time occupied by +halts and marches, and divide the total distance by the number of days +occupied. This reduces the rate to 7 miles per diem. + +----- + +# 7: + + “Make war” is the literal translation of _fanya vita_. + + + + + CHAPTER VII. + +A burzah held—Paying off recruits—Kagehyi becomes a great trading + centre—A Central African “toper”—Prince Kaduma—Hopes of assistance + from him relinquished—The boat ready for sea—No volunteers—Selecting + my crew—The start for the circumnavigation of Lake Victoria. + + +_Feb. 28._—We all woke up on the morning of the 28th of February with a +feeling of intense relief. There were no more marches, no more bugle +summons to rouse us up for another fatiguing day, no more fear of +hunger—at least for a season. + +We Europeans did not rise from bed until 8 A.M., and we then found the +Wangwana and Wanyamwezi still extended at their full lengths on their +mats and goat-skins, and peacefully reposing after their fatigues; and +had I not finally sallied out into the open air at this hour, I believe +that Sungoro and Kaduma, who, by the bye, were inseparable friends, +would, from motives of delicacy, have refrained from paying a morning +call, supposing that I should need many hours of rest. + +At 9 A.M. a _burzah_, or levee, was held. First came Frank and Fred—now +quite recovered from fever—to bid me good morning, and to congratulate +themselves and me upon the prospective rest before us. Next came the +Wangwana and Wanyamwezi chiefs, to express a hope that I had slept +well, and after them the bold youths of the Expedition; then came +Prince Kaduma and Sungoro, to whom we were bound this day to render an +account of the journey and to give the latest news from Zanzibar; and, +lastly, the princess and her principal friends—for introductions have +to be undergone in this land as in others. The burzah lasted two hours, +after which my visitors retired to pursue their respective avocations, +which I discovered to be principally confined, on the part of the +natives, to gossiping, making or repairing fishing-nets, hatchets, +canoes, food-troughs, village fences, and huts; and on the part of our +people to arranging plans for building their own grass-huts, being +perfectly content to endure a long stay at Kagehyi. + +Though the people had only their own small domestic affairs to engage +their attentions, and Frank and Fred were for this day relieved from +duty, I had much to do—observations to take to ascertain the position of +Kagehyi, and its altitude above the sea; to prepare paper, pens, and ink +for the morrow’s report to the journals which had despatched me to this +remote and secluded part of the globe; to make calculations of the time +likely to be occupied in a halt at Kagehyi, in preparing and equipping +the _Lady Alice_ for sea, and in circumnavigating the great “Nianja,” as +the Wasukuma call the lake. It was also incumbent upon me to ascertain +the political condition of the country before leaving the port and the +camp, that my mind might be at rest about its safety during my +contemplated absence. Estimates were also to be entered upon as to the +quantity of cloth and beads likely to be required for the provisioning +of the expeditionary force during my absence, and as to the amount of +tribute and presents to be bestowed upon the King of Uchambi—of which +Kagehyi was only a small district, and to whom Prince Kaduma was only a +subordinate and tributary. In brief, my own personal work was not begun, +and pages would not suffice to describe in detail the full extent of the +new duties now devolving upon me. + +During the afternoon the Wasukuma recruits were summoned to receive +farewell gifts, and nearly all were discharged. Then 13 doti of cloth +were measured for the King of Uchambi, and 10 doti for Prince Kaduma; +and beads were also given in proportion—the expectations of these two +magnates and their favourite wives being thus satisfactorily realised. +These grave affairs were not to be disposed of as mere trivialities, and +occupied me many hours of our second day’s life at Kagehyi. Meanwhile +the Wangwana and Wanyamwezi required me to show my appreciation of their +fidelity to me during the march, and chiefs and men received accordingly +substantial tokens thereof. Besides new cloths to wear, and beads to +purchase luxuries, I was expected to furnish them with meat for a +banquet; and in accordance with their just wishes, six bullocks were +purchased and slaughtered for their benefit. In addition to which, as a +banquet would be rather tame without wine for cheer, twenty gallons of +_pombé_—beer in a state of natural fermentation—were distributed. To +satisfy all which demands and expectations, three full bales of cloth +and 120 lbs. of beads were disbursed. + +_March 1-8._—On the evening of the second day, I was rewarded for my +liberality when I saw the general contentment, and heard on all sides +expressions of esteem and renewed loyalty. + +Nor were Frank and Fred forgotten, for I gave permission for them to +issue for themselves, each day while in camp, four yards of cloth, or +two fundo of beads, to be expended as they thought fit, over and above +ration money. Small as this may seem, it was really equal to a gift of +4_s._ per day pocket-money. Though they lived on similar food to that +cooked for myself, I observed that they chose to indulge in many things +which I could not digest, or for which I had no appetite, such as +ground-nuts, ripe bananas, plaintains, and parched green corn. Fred +Barker was remarkably partial to these things. This extra pocket-money +also served to purchase a larger quantity of milk, eggs, chickens, and +rice from the Wasukuma and Sungoro. My daily fare at this time consisted +principally of chickens, sweet-potatoes, milk, tea and coffee. Pocock +and Barker varied this diet with rice, with which Sungoro furnished +them, and bread made of Indian corn and millet. + +The village of Kagehyi, in the Uchambi district and country of Usukuma, +became after our arrival a place of great local importance. It attracted +an unusual number of native traders from all sides within a radius of +twenty or thirty miles. Fishermen from Ukerewé, whose purple hills we +saw across the arm of the lake, came in their canoes, with stores of +dried fish; those of Igusa, Sima, and Magu, east of us in Usukuma, +brought their cassava, or manioc, and ripe bananas; the herdsmen of +Usmau, thirty miles south of Kagehyi, sent their oxen; and the tribes of +Muanza—famous historically as being the point whence Speke first saw +this broad gulf of Lake Victoria—brought their hoes, iron wire, and +salt, besides great plenty of sweet-potatoes and yams. + +Reports of us were carried far along the paths of trade to the countries +contiguous to the highways of traffic, because we were in a land which +had been, from time immemorial, a land of gossip and primitive commerce; +and a small band of peaceful natives, accustomed to travel, might +explore hundreds of square miles in Usukuma without molestation. But +though Unyanyembé, and through it Zanzibar, might receive within a few +months reliable information about our movements, there were countries in +the immediate neighbourhood of Kagehyi whither traders never venture, +which were for ever cut off from the interesting intelligence that there +were three _white_ men on the shores of the lake, who were said to be +most amiable and sociable. Ujiji, far away on Lake Tanganika, might be +set to wondering whether they had come from Masr (Cairo) or from +Zanzibar, but Wirigedi, close at hand here, on Speke Gulf, might still +be in profound ignorance of the arrival. Mtesa of Uganda might prick up +his ears at the gratifying intelligence, and hope they would soon visit +him, while Ukara, though only about twenty-five geographical miles from +Kagehyi, might be excluded for ever from discussing the strange topic. +The natives of Karagwé and their gentle king might be greatly exercised +in their minds with the agreeable news, and wonder whether they, in +their turn, should ever see the white men, and yet Komeh, 300 miles +nearer to us, might only hear of the wonderful event years after our +departure! Thus it is that information is only conveyed along the lines +of traffic, and does not filter into those countries which are +ostracised from common interests and events by the reputed ferocity of +their inhabitants and their jealous hostility to strangers, even though +they may actually border upon the localities where those interests and +events are freely discussed. + +Prince Kaduma, truth compels me to state, is a true Central African +“toper”—a naturally amiable man, whose natural amiability might be +increased to enormous proportions, provided that it was stimulated by +endless supplies of pombé. From perpetual indulgence in his favourite +vice, he has already attained to that blear-eyed, thick-tongued, +husky-voiced state from which only months of total abstinence can +redeem a man. In his sober moments—I cannot say hours—which were soon +after he rose in the morning, he pretended to manifest an interest in +his cattle-yard, and to be deeply alive to the importance of doing +something in the way of business whenever opportunities offered. In +fact, he would sometimes go so far as to say to his half-dozen elders +that he had something in view even then—“but we must have a shauri +first.” Becoming exceedingly interested, the elders would invite him +to speak, and instantly assume that wise, thoughtful, grave respect +which you sometimes see in members of Parliament, Congress, Reichstag, +&c. “Ah, but,” Kaduma would say, “does a man work when he is hungry? +Can he talk when he is thirsty?” The elders slily exchange winks and +nods of approval, at which Kaduma bursts into a hoarse chuckle—never a +laugh—for Kaduma is remarkable for possessing the conceit of humour. +Others may laugh at his dry sayings, but he himself never laughs: he +chuckles. + +The great jar of froth-topped pombé[8] is then brought up by a naked +youth of fourteen or fifteen years, who is exceedingly careful to plant +the egg-bottomed jar firmly on the ground lest it should topple over. +Beside it is conveniently placed Kaduma’s favourite drinking cup, as +large as a quart measure, and cut out of a symmetrically shaped gourd. +Kaduma is now seated on a favourite low stool, and folds his greasy +Sohari cloth about him, while the elders are seated on either side of +him on wood chips, or axe handles, or rocks. The foaming jar is ready, +and the dusky Ganymede attentive. Kaduma stretches out his hand +languidly—it is all affectation, for Kaduma is really thirsty—and +Ganymede, with both hands, presents the cup kneeling. The pombé being +broached, the valves of the “shauri” are opened. During the hour devoted +to the consumption of the pombé, Kaduma may be said to be rational, and +even interested in business. Withal he is gay, light-hearted, and +pleasant in conversation; grand projects are hinted at; trading +expeditions even as far as Ujiji suggested; a trip to Unyanyembé and +Zanzibar appears to be in serious contemplation with him. But, alas! the +pombé is ended. Kaduma goes to sleep. At three o’clock he expands again +into a creature of intelligence. Two or three pots are exhausted between +3 and 6 P.M., and finally Kaduma reels to his cot like the inebriated +sot he really is. Alas! for the virtues of a naturally intelligent +nature drowned by such intemperance! Alas! for the fine attributes of +manhood conquered by vile indulgences! Alas! for the brains muddled by +such impurities! + +It will be apparent, then, that, though the Prince of Kagehyi is a +well-meaning and well-disposed creature, he possessed an infirmity +that rendered him incapable of rendering me that service which he had +himself suggested to me. He promised that he would accompany me in my +exploration of Lake Victoria! It is to be doubted, after acquiring +such a knowledge of his character, whether his intentions could be +fulfilled. Yet he informed me that he had visited Ukerewé, Ururi, and +Ugeyeya, and would, for a consideration, place himself at my disposal. +The consideration was ready, but Kaduma, unfortunately for me, I +saw, could not be ready within a decade! Hopes of his assistance and +influence were therefore relinquished; and, since the chief was not +available, it became evident that none of his people could be obtained +for the service of exploration. Without this insight into Kaduma’s life +and manners, it would have been a matter for fair speculation whether +his weakness and intemperance, or his dread of the vast lake, were the +real causes of his reluctance to accompany me. + +The prince was learned in the names of several countries or villages—but +which they were, I was then ignorant. But if every name he repeated to +my interested ears were the names of real countries, then, I began to +think, it might be true, as he himself believed, that the lake was so +large that its exploration would occupy years. Nearly all the Wangwana, +while the _Lady Alice_ was being prepared for sea, were impressed with +the vastness of the enterprise, as Prince Kaduma, his people, Sungoro, +and his slaves—who had really only reached Ururi—sketched it to them +with their superstitious and crude notions of its size. There were, they +said, a people dwelling on its shores who were gifted with tails; +another who trained enormous and fierce dogs for war; another a tribe of +cannibals, who preferred human flesh to all other kinds of meat. The +lake was so large it would take years to trace its shores, and who then +at the end of that time would remain alive? Therefore, as I expected, +there were no volunteers for the exploration of the Great Lake. Its +opposite shores, from their very vagueness of outline, and its people, +from the distorting fogs of misrepresentation through which we saw them, +only heightened the fears of my men as to the dangers which filled the +prospect. + +Within seven days the boat was ready, and strengthened for a rough sea +life. Provisions of flour and dried fish, bales of cloth and beads of +various kinds, odds and ends of small possible necessaries were boxed, +and she was declared, at last, to be only waiting for her crew. “Would +any one volunteer to accompany me?” A dead silence ensued. “Not for +rewards and extra pay?” Another dead silence: no one would volunteer. + +“Yet I must,” said I, “depart. Will you let me go alone?” + +“No.” + +“What then? Show me my braves—those men who freely enlist to follow +their master round the sea.” + +All were again dumb. Appealed to individually, each said he knew nothing +of sea life; each man frankly declared himself a terrible coward on +water. + +“Then, what am I to do?” + +Manwa Sera said:— + +“Master, have done with these questions. Command your party. All your +people are your children, and they will not disobey you. While you ask +them as a friend, no one will offer his services. Command them, and they +will all go.” + +So I selected a chief, Wadi Safeni—the son of Safeni—and told him to +pick out the elect of the young men. Wadi Safeni chose men who knew +nothing of boat life. Then I called Kachéché, the detective, and told +him to ascertain the names of those young men who were accustomed to sea +life, upon which Kachéché informed me that the young guides first +selected by me at Bagamoyo were the sailors of the Expedition. After +reflecting upon the capacities of the younger men, as they had developed +themselves on the road, I made a list of ten sailors and a steersman, to +whose fidelity I was willing to entrust myself and fortunes while +coasting round the Victorian Sea. + +Accordingly, after drawing up instructions for Frank Pocock and Fred +Barker on about a score of matters concerning the wellbeing of the +Expedition during my absence, and enlisting for them, by an adequate +gift, the goodwill of Sungoro and Prince Kaduma, I set sail on the 8th +of March, 1875, eastward along the shores of the broad arm of the lake +which we first sighted, and which henceforward is known, in honour of +its first discoverer, as “Speke Gulf.” + +----- + +# 8: + + Native beer, made from fermented grain or coarse flour. + + + + + CHAPTER VIII. + +Afloat on the lake—We catch a guide—Saramba’s terror—The Shimeeyu— + Pyramid Point—The island of Ukerewé—In the haunts of crocodiles—Shizu + Island—The hippopotami—Ururi—The headlands of Goshi—Bridge Island— + Volcanoes—U-go-weh—the inebriates of Ugamba—Treachery at Maheta— + Primitive man—The art of pleasing—A night at Uvuma—Mobbed by Wavuma— + Barmecide fare—Message from Mtesa—“In the Kabaka’s name”—Camp on Soweh + Island. + + +_March 8._—Afloat on the waters of Speke Gulf! The sky is gloomy and the +light grey water has become a dull ashen grey; the rocks are bare and +rugged; and the land, sympathising with the gloom above, appears silent +and lonely. The people sigh dolorously, their rowing is as that of men +who think they are bound to certain death, and now and again wistful +looks are thrown towards me as though they expected an order to return. +Their hearts are full of misgivings. Slowly, however, we move through +the dull, dead waters; slowly we pass by the dull grey rocks of Lutari +Point, and still slower do the boatmen row when the rugged rocks shut +off the view of Kagehyi and front them with their bare rude masses. + +Five miles brought us to Igusa, a settlement doubtless pleasant +enough under a fair sky, but bearing this afternoon its share of the +universal gloom. Without a guide or interpreter, we bore in for a +little reed-lined creek. A fisherman, with a head of hair resembling +a thick mop, came down to the boat. He had, it seems, visited Kagehyi +two or three days before, and recognised us. A better acquaintance was +soon begun, and ended in his becoming captivated with our promises of +rewards and offering his services as guide. The boatmen were overjoyed; +for the guide, whose name was Saramba, proved to have been one of +Sungoro’s boatmen in some of that Arab’s trading excursions to Ururi. +We passed a cheerless night, for the reeds turned out to be the haunt +of a multitude of mosquitoes, and the air was cold. However, with +Saramba as guide, we promised ourselves better quarters in future. + +_March 9._—At 6 A.M., after Saramba’s appearance, we resumed our voyage, +and continued on our way eastward, clinging to the shores of Sima. At 11 +A.M. the clouds, which had long been gathering over the horizon to the +north-west, discharged both squall and gale, and the scene soon became +wild beyond description. We steered from the shore, and were soon +involved in the dreadful chaos of watery madness and uproar. The wind +swept us over the fierce waves, the _Lady Alice_ bounding forward like a +wild courser. It lashed the waters into spray and foam, and hurled them +over the devoted crew and boat. With a mere rag presented to the gale, +we drove unresistingly along. Strange islets in the neighbourhood of +Mashakka became then objects of terror to us, but we passed them in +safety and saw the grey hills of Magu far in front of us. The boatmen +cowered to windward: Saramba had collapsed in terror, and had resignedly +covered his moppy head with his loin-cloth. Zaidi Mganda, the steersman, +and myself were the only persons visible above the gunwale, and our +united strengths were required to guide the boat over the raging sea. At +2 P.M. we came in view of the Shimeeyu river, and, steering close to the +little island of Natwari swept round to leeward, and through a calm +water made our way into harbour, opposite the entrance to the river. + +_March 10._—The next day was beautiful. The wild waters of yesterday +were calm as those of a pond. The bold hills of Magu, with all their +sere and treeless outlines, stood out in fine relief. Opposite them, at +about 1300 yards distant, were the brush-covered tops of the Mazanza +heights; while between them lay glittering the broad and noble creek +which receives the tribute flood of the Shimeeyu, the extreme southern +reach of Nile waters. The total length of the course of this river, as +laid out on the chart, is 300 miles, which gives the course of the Nile +a length of 4200 miles: thus making it the second longest river in the +world. The creek extends to a considerable distance, and then contracts +to a width of about 400 yards, through which the Monangah, after uniting +with the Luwamberri and the Duma rivers, discharges its brown waters, +under the name of the Shimeeyu, into the lake. + +After an examination of these features, we continued our journey along +the coast of Mazanza, which forms the eastern shore of the bay of +Shimeeyu, passing by the boldly rising and wooded hills of Manassa. At 4 +P.M. we attempted to land in a small cove, but were driven away by a +multitude of audacious hippopotami, who rushed towards us open-mouthed. +Perceiving that they were too numerous and bold for us, we were +compelled to drop our stone anchors in 40 feet of water, about two miles +from shore. + +_March 11._—On the 11th of March, after rowing nearly the whole day +against a head-wind, we arrived at the eastern end of Speke Gulf, which +here narrows to about seven miles. On the southern side Manassa extends +from Mazanza, its coast-line marked by an almost unbroken ridge about +two miles inland, varied here and there by rounded knolls and hills, +from whose base there is a gradual slope covered with woods down to the +water’s edge. The eastern end of the gulf is closed by the land of the +Wirigedi or, as Saramba called them, the Wajika. At the north-eastern +end begins Shahshi, consisting of a group of sterile hills, which, as we +proceed west along the north side of the gulf, sink down into a naked +plain. The Ruana river empties itself into the head of the gulf by two +narrow mouths through a low wooded shore. + +_March 12._—On the 12th we continued to coast along Shahshi’s low, +bare plain, margined at the water’s edge by eschinomenæ, and a little +farther inland lined by mimosa, thence past Iramba, a similar country +to Shahshi, until we reached Pyramid Point, so christened from the +shape of its hills, but on running up into the bay (which has its +greatest width at Rugedzi Strait), we found that Pyramid Point really +forms the south-western end of a mountain-range. One of the most +conspicuous objects we saw, as we stood on the uplands of Usmau, +looking towards the N.N.E., was this Pyramid Point, but at that time we +had, of course, only a dim idea of its neighbourhood to the lake. + +Near the Point is a group of small islands, the principal being Kitaro, +on which cattle and goats are found. Though the islanders obtain but a +scanty subsistence from the soil, they find reason to congratulate +themselves in that they are safe from the periodical raids made by the +Wajika, or Wirigedi, a tribe unpleasantly distinguished for the length +of their knives and the breadth and weight of their spears. On one of +this group, which was uninhabited, we stayed to cook our midday meal. It +appeared fair and pleasant enough from without—one mass of deepest +verdure, with a cone rising about 100 feet above the lake. Upon +exploring it, we found it to be a heap of gigantic rocks, between which +the deposit of vegetable matter had given birth to a forest of young +trees, the spreading green foliage of which was rendered still more +impervious to sunshine by a multitude of parasitical plants and llianes, +which had woven the whole into as thick and dense a shade as I ever +remember to have seen. Below this mass of tangled branch and leaf the +thermometer descends to 70° Fahr.; without, exposed to the blazing sun, +it ascends to 115° Fahr. + +In the evening we camped on a small island in the middle of the bay of +Ukerewé, east of the beautiful isle of Nifuah, which is inhabited and is +the home of an industrious colony subject to the king of Ukerewé. + +From the summit of Nifuah we could distinguish the tall trees which gave +shade to our camp and to Kaduma’s village of Kagehyi, across Speke Gulf. +Upon coming down to the water’s edge, we saw nothing but the blue hills, +600 feet high, situated three miles south of Kagehyi; nor, turning our +eyes to the north, could we see anything of the low shore which the +Rugedzi Channel cuts. Standing close to the water at Nifuah, we would +have imagined that Ukerewé was an island separated by a strait about two +miles broad; but turning our boat to the north, a couple of hours’ +rowing brought us so near that we could see that the opposing point of +the mainland is joined to the island, or appears to be joined, by a very +low bush-covered neck of land a mile in width, which thus separates the +waters of Speke Gulf from the great body of Lake Victoria. A still +closer examination, however, reveals the fact that this narrow neck is +cut by a shallow channel 6 feet wide and in some places only 3 feet +deep. The ground, though extremely low on each side, is firm and compact +enough; but here and there it is of a boggy nature. Hence it will be +seen that Captain Speke, who called Ukerewé an island, was literally +correct. + +_March 13._—On the 13th we enjoyed a fine six-knot breeze, and were able +to make a good day’s work, though we still clung to the shore of Ukerewé +near enough to note clearly the features of the water-line. A glance at +the country of Ukerewé showed it to be exceedingly populous and +extensively cultivated. From Matembé to Yambuyah extends a bold ridge +about 300 feet above the lake, and beyond this point is a deep +indentation, called Ukwya, near the western horn of which we perceived a +group of islets named Kiregi. These are the haunts of an immense number +of crocodiles, and one nest discovered here contained fifty-eight eggs. +At almost every step I took, when walking round one of the reed-lined +islets, a specimen of the ugly Saurian tribe sprang with a startling +rush into the lake. There appeared also to be as many monitors as there +were crocodiles in this infested islet, and all round me, from the +little creeks, and sometimes in very close proximity, lowed the +hippopotami. I shot one of the monitors, and it measured 7 feet from the +tip of the snout to the tip of the tail. One of the boat’s crew skinned +it, but, not having means or time to preserve it, we were finally +compelled to abandon our treasure. Being extremely keen-eyed and agile +in its movements, the monitor is a valuable auxiliary to the more +indolent crocodile, which it wakes frequently from slumber, and by its +impetuous rush at sight of the intruder saves it from becoming a prey to +the hunter. In return for its services the greater monster furnishes it +with many a delicious meal on its eggs. The enormous number of smaller +lizards, skinks, and geckos, which these islets also sustain, prove that +the monitors have abundant means of supplies. + +From here we sailed round the coast of Wiru, and leaving about four +miles on our left the Kuneneh group, we steered N.N.W. Mag. for the +Irangara Islands, at the north-western extremity of Ukerewé, the shore +presenting to our view throughout only a low hill range clothed with +woods. Leaving Irangara behind us, we emerged in view of the vast +amplitude, as though of ocean, of the Victoria Nyanza.[9] + +After sailing past the Kamassi and Kindevi islets, we rounded the hilly +point of Masonga, and beheld on our right, as far as Shizu Island, a +broad bay, bounded by a crescent-shaped ridge, springing some 300 feet +above the lake, and extensively wooded, while on our left lay the large +and populous island of Ukara, peopled by an intensely superstitious +colony, who cherish the most devout faith in charms and witchcraft. + +_March 16._—As we rowed past Shizu Island, we beheld the table-topped +mountain of Majita rising, massive and grand, to the eastward. On the +16th of March we encamped on one of the bird-rocks about three miles +from the base of Majita, which rises probably between 2000 and 3000 +feet above the lake. From the northern angle of Majita we sailed, +on a north-east course for the district of Wye, across a deep bay +distinguished only for the short hill range of Usambara, between which, +on either side, extends the low and almost treeless plain of Shahshi to +the waters of Speke Gulf. + +From Wye we coasted along populous Ururi. The country appears well +cultivated, and villages are numerous. Some of the Waruri fishermen +informed us we should be eight years circumnavigating the lake! Numerous +rocky islands, almost all uninhabited at this period, stud the +neighbourhood of the mainland, and the coast is so indented with deep +bays and inlets that it requires very careful attention to survey it. +Its features are similar to those of Usukuma, namely, swelling and +uneven lines of hills, sometimes with slopes extending for three or four +miles, more often, as in the case of nearly all the headlands, with +points springing abrupt and sheer from the water’s edge. Wherever the +ridges rise gradually and at a distance from the lake, special +advantages for cultivation appear to obtain, for I have noted that all +such sites were thickly populated by the tribes of Ururi, Ukerewé, Sima, +Magu, or Uchambi. A few of the Burdett-Coutts Islands exhibited traces +of having been the resort of fugitives, for on several of them we +discovered bananas and other garden plants, and ruined huts. We struck +across the bay to Ikungu, and thence across another to picturesque Dobo, +nearly opposite Irieni. + +_March 17._—Having arrived at anchorage at dusk, we were led to seek +shelter under the lee of one of the outlying rocks of Dobo. We had +moored both by bow and stern, to prevent being swept by the restless +surf against the rocks, but about midnight a storm arose from the +eastward, exposing us to all its fury. We were swept with great force +against the rocks, and should inevitably have been lost had not the +oars, which we had lashed outside the boat as fenders, protected it. +Through the pelting rain, and amid the thunders of the aroused waves +which lashed the reef, we laboured strenuously to save ourselves, and +finally succeeded in rowing to the other lee. + +Externally, the aspect of these islands on the coast of Ururi is very +rugged, bare, and unpromising, but within are many acres of cultivable +soil covered with green grass, and the hippopotami, which abound in the +neighbourhood of these deserted, grassy islands, here find luxurious +pasturage. Like the tribes on the mainland, these amphibiæ appear to +possess also their respective boundaries and their separate haunts. The +hippopotami of Lake Victoria, moreover, are an excessively belligerent +species, and the unwary voyager, on approaching their haunts, exposes +himself to danger. We were frequently chased by them; and as the boat +was not adapted for a combat with such pachyderms, a collision would +have been fatal to us. The settlements at Irieni possess large herds of +cattle, but the soil does not seem to be highly cultivated. In this +respect the people appear to resemble in character the Watusi in +Unyamwezi, who live only on the milk of their cattle, and such grain as +they are enabled to obtain by its sale. + +_March 18._—Suspecting, after leaving Irieni, and approaching Mori Bay, +that a river of considerable importance emptied into it, we paid +particular attention to every indentation on its uneven coast; but on +arriving at a lofty though small island at the eastern extremity, and +climbing to its summit 150 feet above the lake, we saw that the river +was small, and that its course was from south of east. Observation +Island was rich in plants, though only a few hundred yards in length. +The wild pine-apple, mimosas, acacia, thorn, gum, vines, euphorbias, +eschinomenæ, llianes, water-cane, and spear-grass flourished with a +luxuriance quite astonishing. As we passed Utiri, we observed that the +natives were much interested in our boat, and some fishermen whom we +encountered fell into ecstasies of laughter when they saw the novel +method we adopted for propelling her. They mocked us good-naturedly, and +by their gestures seemed to express contempt for the method in question, +as not being equal to paddling. The rudder and its uses also excited +unusual astonishment, and when the sail was hoisted, they skurried away +as though it were an object of terror. + +_March 19._—After leaving the hilly coast of Utiri, the lowlands of +Shirati and Mohruru rose into view, and the black mountain mass of +Ugeyeya appeared to the eastward at the distance of about twenty miles. +To the west of it, grim and lofty, loomed the island of Ugingo. Clusters +of grey, rocky islets stud the lake along the coast of Shirati, while +from the water’s edge, to a distance of five or six miles, an +uninteresting plain, unenlivened by forest or verdure, slopes slowly up +to where the land breaks into groups and masses of irregular hills. This +continues to the mouth of a river which the natives call Gori, and which +terminates the country of Ururi. On the right bank of the river begins +mountainous Ugeyeya, the south-western extremity of which runs out into +the lake like a promontory. + +Gori is an important and powerful river during the rainy season. It is +said to rise in a north-easterly direction near Kavi. Far inland on the +east, to a distance of twenty-five days’ journey, the country is +reported to be a continuous plain, dotted with low hills and containing +water only in pools. About fifteen days’ journey from the lake, the +natives also report a region wherein are “low hills which discharge +smoke and sometimes fire from their tops.” This district is called Susa, +and is a portion of the Masai Land. All concurred in stating that no +stream runs north, but that all waters for at least twenty days’ journey +enter the lake. Beyond that distance lies a small lake which discharges +a stream eastward—supposed by me to be the Pangani. + +_March 21._—On the 21st of March we were passing under the lee—for the +wind blew then from the north-east, off the land—of the dark headlands +of Goshi, which at first rise steeply from the lake 900 feet and, later, +receding from the lake, attain a height of from 2000 to 3000 feet. On +our left towered the tall, tree-clad island of Ugingo, extending far to +the north-west. Thin blue columns of smoke rising from the depths of its +woods announced the presence of man, probably fishermen or fugitives +from the mainland. Judging from what I observed of the slopes of this +extremity of Ugeyeya, I should say that much of this portion is +uninhabited. Rounding the point that confronts the island of Ugingo, we +passed between two more uninhabited islands, and then the dome-like +hills of Wakuneh burst upon our view. Our impression of the land on this +side was that it was a pastoral country, and more thickly populated, for +smoke curled more frequently from above depressions and sheltered +positions. + +At evening we camped on Bridge Island, so named from a natural bridge of +basaltic rock which forms an irregular arch of about 24 feet in length +by about 12 feet in depth, and under which we were able to pass from one +side of the island to the other. The island is covered with brushwood +and tall grass, and in the interstices of the rocks, where the vegetable +deposit was of great depth, grew several fine mangroves. The height is +about 50 feet above the lake, and from its summit we obtained a fine +view of Ugingo Island, brooding in its gloomy solitude, and of the steep +and high ranges of Ugeyeya, with the level plains of Wagansu and Wigassi +extending eastward. To the west stretched an apparently boundless sea, +its face ruffled by a strong breeze, and farther northward still loomed +upward unknown lands, their contour broken now by rounded domes and +again by sharp cones. + +[Illustration: BRIDGE ISLAND.] + +_March 22._—The number of islands encountered next day proved so +troublesome to us that we were compelled to creep cautiously along the +shore. As we neared Nakidimo, we observed the water change from its +usual clear grey colour to that of a rich brown, and, seeing a creek +close by, felt fully assured that we had discovered some important +river. As we entered, the creek widened and disclosed picturesque +features of outlined hill and wooded slope. We pulled steadily to its +farther extremity, but the stream which entered here was small, and +oozed through a reedy marsh. We endeavoured for an hour to induce a +canoe with three fishermen in it to approach, but all we could make out +from Saramba, who, I fear, did not understand them, was that the name of +the country was Ugoweh, which sounded so like _You go ’way_ that I +declined accepting it, until the natives shouted out still more clearly +and emphatically, “U-go-weh.” It was evident, however, that these +natives spoke a language that our guide from the south did not quite +comprehend. We continued our keen inspection of the numerous +indentations from Ugoweh (?) to Nakidimo Creek, into which an important +stream debouches. The hippopotami were numerous, and as bold as those of +Speke Gulf. + +Emerging once more into the lake, we anchored about a mile from the +shore in 6 fathoms, and found that there was a current of about half a +knot setting westward. At 2 P.M. we hoisted sail, and with a fair wind +were able to hug the mainland and make good progress, within view of a +very populous and extensively cultivated shore. This was the land of +Maheta, we were told, and the same which we had sighted from the summit +of Bridge Island. We flew away with a bellying sail along the coast of +Maheta, where we saw a denser population and more clusters of large +villages than we had beheld elsewhere. We thought we would make one more +effort to learn of the natives the names of some of these villages, and +for that purpose steered for a cove on the western shore. We anchored +within 50 yards, and so paid out our cable that only a few feet of deep +water separated us from the beach. Some half-dozen men, wearing small +land-shells above their elbows and a circle of them round their heads, +came to the brink. With these we opened a friendly conversation, during +which they disclosed the name of the country as “Mahata” or “Maheta” in +Ugeyeya; but more they would not communicate unless we would land. We +prepared to do so, but the numbers on the shore increased so fast that +we were compelled to pull off again until they should moderate their +excitement and make room. They seemed to think we were about to pull off +altogether, for there suddenly appeared out of the bush on each side of +the spot where we had intended to land such a host of spears that we +hoisted sail, and left them to try their treachery on some other boat or +canoe more imprudent than ours. The discomfited people were seen to +consult together on a small ridge behind the bush lining the lake, and +no doubt they thought we were about to pass close to a small point at +the north end of the cove, for they shouted gleefully at the prospect of +a prize; but, lowering sail, we pulled to windward, far out of the reach +of bow or sling, and at dusk made for a small island to which we moored +our boat, and there camped in security. + +_March 24._—From our little island off Maheta, we sailed at the dawn of +day towards the low shores, and were making good progress, when we +bumped over the spine of a rising hippopotamus, who, frightened by this +strange and weighty object on his back, gave a furious lunge, and shook +the boat until we all thought she would be shaken to pieces. The hippo, +after this manifestation of disgust, rose a few feet astern, and loudly +roared his defiance; but after experiencing his great strength, we rowed +away hard from his neighbourhood. + +About 10 A.M. we found ourselves abreast of the cones of Manyara, and +discovered the long and lofty promontory which had attracted our +attention ever since leaving Maheta to be the island of Usuguru, +another, though larger copy of Ugingo. Through a channel two miles broad +we entered the bay of Manyara, bounded on the east by the picturesque +hills of that country, on the north by the plain of Ugana, and on the +west by Muiwanda and the long, narrow promontory of Chaga. This bay +forms the extreme north-east corner of Lake Victoria, but strangers, +travelling by land, would undoubtedly mistake it for a separate lake, as +Usuguru, when looked at from this bay, seems to overlap the points of +Chaga and Manyara. + +About six miles from the north-eastern extremity of the bay, we anchored +on the afternoon of the 24th of March, about 100 yards from the village +of Muiwanda. Here we found a people speaking the language of Usoga. A +good deal of diplomacy was employed between the natives and ourselves +before a friendly intercourse was established, but we were finally +successful in inducing the natives to exchange vegetable produce and a +sheep for some of the blue glass beads called _Mutunda_. Neither men nor +women wore any covering for their nakedness save a kirtle of green +banana-leaves, which appeared to me to resemble in its exceeding +primitiveness the fig-leaf costume of Adam and Eve. The men were +distinguished, besides, by the absence of the upper and lower front +teeth, and by their shaven heads, on which were left only irregular +combs or crescents of hair on the top and over the forehead. While we +were negotiating for food, a magnificent canoe, painted a reddish brown, +came up from the western side of the village, but, despite the loud +invitations tendered to them, the strangers kept on their way and +proceeded up the bay of Manyara. + +_March 25._—On the 25th, refreshed by the meat and vegetables we had +purchased, we began our voyage along the northern coast of Lake +Victoria, and, two hours later, were in conversation with the natives of +Chaga or Shaga, who informed us that Murambo, king of Usuguru, was also +king of Chaga. I am unable to decide whether Chaga is a promontory or an +island, but I believe that there is a narrow channel navigable for +canoes (of the same nature as the Rugedzi[10] Channel) separating Chaga +from the mainland. Between its southern point and Usuguru Island, there +is a strait about three-quarters of a mile wide, through which we passed +to Fisherman’s Island, where we rested for our noonday meal. At 2 P.M. +we arrived, after an hour’s rowing, near Ngevi Island, and when close to +it, we were compelled to take shelter from a furious nor’-wester. + +We had been at anchor scarcely ten minutes before we saw a small canoe, +paddled by two men, boldly approach us from the shore of Ugamba, distant +about a mile and a half on our right or to the east of us. In our +mildest accents we hailed them, and, after a protracted interval +employed by them in curiously scanning us, they permitted us to hear the +sound of their voices. But nothing would induce them to come nearer than +about 100 yards. In the midst of these vain efforts to win their +confidence, a canoe similar in form and colour to that which had won our +admiration at Muiwanda advanced towards us. A false prow projected +upward, curving in the shape of a bent elbow, from the tip of which to +the top of the bow of the canoe was strung a taut line, and along this +was suspended some fine grass, which waved like a mane as she charged +up, bold and confident, propelled by forty paddlers. Half of this +number, who were seated forward, sprang up when they came within 50 +yards, and, seizing long tufted lances and shields, began to sway them +menacingly. As we made no demonstration of resistance, they advanced +cautiously, and when within 20 yards, swerved aside, wheeling round us +in a defiant style. + +Finally we broke silence, and demanded who they were, and why they came +up as though they would attack us. As they did not understand either +Kingwana, Kisukuma, or Kinyamwezi, one of my boatmen attempted Kiganda, +a little of which they appeared to understand; and by this means we +opened a conversation. They edged towards us a little nearer, and ended +by ranging their long canoe alongside of our boat. Our tame, mild +manners were in striking contrast to their bullying, overbearing, and +insolent demeanour. The paddlers, half of whom were intoxicated, laid +their hands with familiar freedom upon everything. We still smiled, and +were as mild and placable as though anger and resentment could never +enter our hearts. We were so courteous, indeed, that we permitted them +to handle our persons with a degree of freedom which to them appeared +unaccountable—unless we were so timid that we feared to give offence. If +we had been so many sheep, we could not have borne a milder or a more +innocent aspect. Our bold friends, reeling and jostling one another in +their eagerness to offend, seized their spears and shields, and began to +chant in bacchanalian tones a song that was tipsily discordant. Some +seized their slings and flung stones to a great distance, which we +applauded. Then one of them, under the influence of wine, and spirits +elated by the chant, waxed bolder, and looked as though he would aim at +myself, seated observant but mute in the stern of my boat. I made a +motion with my hand as though deprecating such an action. The sooty +villain seemed to become at once animated by an hysteric passion, and +whirled his stone over my head, a loud drunken cheer applauding his +boldness. + +Perceiving that they were becoming wanton through our apparently mild +demeanour, I seized my revolver and fired rapidly into the water, in the +direction the stone had been flung, and the effect was painfully +ludicrous. The bold, insolent bacchanals at the first shot had sprung +overboard, and were swimming for dear life to Ngevi, leaving their canoe +in our hands. “Friends, come back, come back; why this fear?” cried out +our interpreter; “we simply wished to show you that we had weapons as +well as yourselves. Come, take your canoe; see, we push it away for you +to seize it.” We eventually won them back with smiles. We spoke to them +sweetly as before. The natives were more respectful in their demeanour. +They laughed, cried out admiringly; imitated the pistol shots; “Boom, +boom, boom,” they shouted. They then presented me with a bunch of +bananas! We became enthusiastic admirers of each other. + +Meantime, two more large canoes came up, also bold and confident, for +they had not yet been taught a lesson. These new-comers insisted that we +should visit their king Kamoydah. We begged to be excused. They became +still more urgent in their request. We said it was impossible; they were +strangers, and not very well behaved; if they wished to barter with us, +they could load their canoes and come to Ngevi, where we would be happy +to exchange beads or cloth for their articles. Three other canoes were +now seen approaching. We sat, however, extremely still, patient, and +placable, and waited for them. The united voices of the 130 natives made +a terrible din, but we endured it with saintly meekness and the +fortitude of stoics—for a period. We bore the storm of entreaties mixed +with rude menace until instinct warned me that it was becoming +dangerous. I then delivered some instructions to the boat’s crew, and, +nodding to the shore, affected to surrender with an indifferent grace. +They became suddenly silent. We lifted the stone anchor, and took to our +oars, steering to the broken water, ruffled by the nor’-wester, beyond +the shelter of the island, convoyed by the six canoes. We accompanied +them some hundreds of yards, and then, suddenly hoisting sail, swept by +them like an arrow. We preferred the prospect of the lone watery expanse +to the company of the perverse inebriates of Ugamba. + +We continued sailing for half an hour, and as it was then near sunset, +dropped anchor in 75 feet of water. The wind, which had swept in strong +gusts from the north-west, suddenly fell, for in the north-east the +aspect of the sky had long been threatening. Clouds surged up in thick +masses from that direction, and cast a gloom over the wood-clothed +slopes and crests of Usuguru, which became almost as black as a velvet +pall, while the lake grew as quiet as though vitrified into glass. Soon +the piled up cloud-mass grew jagged, and a portentous zigzag line of +deep sable hue ran through its centre, from which the storm seemed to +issue. I requested the crew to come farther aft, and, fastening a double +rope to the stone anchor, prepared every mug and baler for the rain with +which we were threatened. The wind then fell, as though from above, upon +our bowed heads with an overpowering force, striving against the +resistance which it met, as if it would bear us down to the bottom of +the lake, and then, repelled by the face of the water, it brushed it +into millions of tiny ripples. The temperature fell to 62° Fahr., and +with this sudden cold down dropped a severe shower of hailstones of +great size, which pelted us with great force, and made our teeth +chatter. After this the rain fell in sheets, while the lightning blazed, +preceding the most dreadful thunder-claps I remember to have ever heard. + +The rain, indeed, fell in such quantities that it required two men for +each section to keep the boat sufficiently buoyant to ride the crest of +the waves. The crew cried out that the boat was sinking—that, if the +rain continued in such volume, nothing could save us. In reply, I only +urged them to bale her out faster. + +The sable mass of Usuguru—as I observed by the bars of intense light +which the lightning flashed almost every second—was still in front, and +I knew, therefore, that we were not being swept very fast to sea. Our +energies were wholly devoted to keeping our poor pelted selves afloat, +and this occupied the crew so much that they half forgot the horrors of +the black and dismal night. For two hours this experience lasted, and +then, unburdening our breasts with sighs of gladness not unmixed with +gratitude, we took our anchor on board, and stole through the darkness +to the western side of Ngevi Island, where, after kindling a fire, we +dried our clothes and our wetted bodies, and, over a hot potful of +Liebig, affected to laugh at our late critical position. + +_March 26._—In the morning the world appeared re-born, for the sky was a +bluish crystal, the shores looked as if fresh painted in green, the lake +shone like burnished steel, the atmosphere seemed created for health. +Glowing with new life, we emerged out of our wild arbour of cane and +mangrove to enjoy the glories of a gracious heaven, and the men relieved +their grateful breasts by chanting loudly and melodiously one of their +most animating boat-songs. + +As we rowed in this bright mood across the bay of Ugamba, we noticed a +lofty mount which I should judge to be fully 3000 feet above the lake, +towards the north-east. From the natives of Usamu Island, we obtained +the name of Marsawa for this the most conspicuous feature of the +neighbourhood. After obtaining a clear meridian altitude, on a small +island between Usamu and Namungi, we steered for the latter. The art of +pleasing was never attempted with such effect as at Namungi. Though we +had great difficulty in even obtaining a hearing, we persisted in the +practice of the art with all its amusing variations, until our +perseverance was finally rewarded. A young fisherman was despatched to +listen from the shore, but the young wretch merely stared at us. We +tossed into his canoe a bunch of beads, and he understood their +signification. He shouted out to his fellows on the shore, who were +burning with curiosity to see closer the strange boat and strange crew, +amongst whom they saw a man who was like unto no man they had ever seen +or heard, or dreamed of. + +A score of canoes loaded with peaceful, harmless souls came towards +us, all of whom begged for beads. When we saw that they could be +inspired to talk, we suggested to them that, in return for food, +abundance of beads might be obtained. They instantly raced for the +banana and plantain groves in great excitement. We were so close that +we could hear the heavy clusters falling under the native machetes, +and within a short time so many bunches were held out to us that we +might have sunk under the waves had we purchased all. After storing a +sufficient quantity to provision us for three days, of bananas, fowls +and eggs, and sweet maramba or banana wine, and eliciting the names +of the various islands, capes, and most prominent hills, we attempted +to resume our journey. But the people, upon whom our liberality had +produced too strong an effect, would not permit us to do so until +we had further celebrated our acquaintance with copious draughts of +their delicious wine. The Wangwana would have been delighted to have +exhausted many days in such a fascinating life, but the coast of the +Victoria was lengthy, the winds not always favourable, and we had a +large number of friends in Usukuma who might become restless, were we +too long absent. We therefore set sail, convoyed a long distance by +about thirty canoes, manned by light-hearted guileless creatures in an +extreme state of enjoyment and redundant hilarity. + +This was altogether a remarkable scene; our exploring boat, with its +lug-sail set, dragging about thirty canoes, whose crews were all +intoxicated, and whose good-nature was so excessive as to cause them to +supply our boat’s crew with copious quantities of their wine, until all +were in an uncommonly joyous mood. It would be well worth describing in +detail, but I am compelled to be brief. After sailing in company a few +miles, we finally freed ourselves from our hospitable entertainers, and +steering across the channel to the island opposite Neygano, coasted +along its well-wooded shores. Perceiving a deep bay farther west, we +entered it, and near the extreme eastern end of Uvuma anchored about 150 +yards off the village of Mombiti. + +Had we been better acquainted with the character of the Wavuma, we +probably should have been less inclined to visit their shores, but, +ignorant of their ferocity, and zealous to perform our duties, we +persevered in attempting to open intercourse with this tribe. We were, +however, prudent enough not to rush into danger by taking it for granted +that most savages were a guileless, amiable set, who would never dream +of injuring or molesting strangers—and this circumspection most likely +saved our lives. + +After a few minutes’ distant conversation, the Wavuma approached us, +and we were enabled to purchase fuel for cooking, making a liberal +payment. We hoped they would be induced to sell us food also, not that +we were really in need of it, but because it furnished us with another +motive for continuing our intercourse, and enlarged our opportunities +for studying their nature and habits, and obtaining names for the +localities around. We had numerous visitors, who appeared to be fine, +manly, well-made fellows, but nothing would induce them to bring the +smallest quantity of food for sale. We therefore resignedly forbore +from troubling them, but inspected them with as much interest as they +inspected us. They were evidently people with abundant self-confidence, +from the cool complacency with which they regarded us. Their canoes +were beautiful specimens, and descriptions and pictures of them will +be given hereafter. The shores were bold, irregular in outline, and +clothed with a luxuriance of vegetation and many tall trees, between +which were seen the banana groves, their pale green colour strongly +contrasting with the darker tints of the forest foliage. + +The night that followed was wild. At sunset the temperature fell to 70° +Fahr., and the wind was charged with a cold drizzle. Being in rather an +exposed position, we moved our anchorage near the mouth of the Munulu +river, and not a minute too soon, for the wind increased to a gale; and +the gale, heralded by a short-lived squall, brought hailstones with it. +Preparing to pass the night here, we covered the boat with a sail, under +which the sailors slept, though the watch, frequently relieved, was +obliged to maintain a strict look-out. Throughout the long hours of +darkness, the gale maintained its force; the boat pitched and groaned, +and the rain fell in torrents; the seas frequently tossed capfuls of +water into us, so that, under such circumstances, we enjoyed no rest. + +_March 27._—By morning the gale had subsided, and the heavy, sluggish +waves were slumbering. After waiting to cook our morning meal, and +assisting the restoration of animal heat with draughts of Liebig’s +extract liquefied, we resumed our journey along the southern coast of +Uvuma about 8 A.M. + +Upon leaving the bay of Mombiti, we were compelled to pass by a point of +land closely covered with tall grass, whither we saw a large force of +natives rush to take up advantageous positions. As we slowly neared the +point, a few of them advanced to the rocks, and beckoned us to approach +nearer. We acceded so far as to approach within a few feet, when the +natives called out something, and immediately attacked us with large +rocks. We sheered off immediately, when a crowd emerged from their +hiding-place with slings, with which they flung stones at us, striking +the boat and wounding the steersman, who was seated next to me. To +prevent further harm, I discharged my revolver rapidly at them, and one +of the natives fell: whereupon the others desisted from their attack, +and retreated into the grass, leaving us to pursue our way unmolested. + +Again edging close to the shore, we continued our investigations of the +numerous indentations. The island rose with steep, grassy, treeless +slopes to a height of about 300 feet above the lake. Herds of cattle +were abundant, and flocks of goats grazed on the hillsides. The villages +were many, but unenclosed, and consisted of a few dome-like huts, from +which we inferred that the Wavuma were a people who could well defend +themselves. At this time the lake was as still as a pond; no clouds hung +over any part of the horizon; the sky was of a steel-blue colour, out of +which the sun shone with true tropical fervour. But the atmosphere was +not clear; a light vapour rose out of the lake, trembling in the heat, +rendering islands but five miles distant dim and indistinct. + +Arrived in the channel between the tawny, grass-clad island of Bugeyeya +and that of Uvuma, we steered midway, that we might take compass +bearings. From a small cove in the Uvuma shores, abreast of us, emerged +quite a fleet of canoes, thirteen in number. The more advanced held up a +handful of sweet-potatoes to our view, and we ceased rowing, but left +the sail hoisted, which, with the very slight breeze then blowing, +drifted us westward about half a knot an hour. + +The Wavuma were permitted to range alongside, and we saw that they were +fully armed with spear and shield. We offered several kinds of beads for +the potatoes they had offered to sell, but with a gesture of contempt +they refused everything, and from their actions and manner we became +soon convinced that they had manned their canoes for other purposes than +barter; besides, they possessed only about twenty potatoes, which, +singularly enough, were all in the first canoe. Strange to say, also, +the men of the first canoe were, though disinclined to sell, moderate in +their behaviour; but their temper changed as soon as their comrades had +arrived, and had taken up their positions in front of our boat, blocking +our progress through the water. The Wavuma, now emboldened by their +numbers, waxed noisy, then insolent, and finally aggressive. They seized +one thing after another with a cunning dexterity, which required all our +attention to divine their purpose; and while we were occupied with the +truculent rabble in our front, a movement of which we were unaware was +being made successfully at the stern; but the guide, Saramba, catching +sight of a thief, warned me to cast my eyes behind, and I detected him +in the act of robbery. Becoming assured by this time that the Wavuma had +arrived in such numbers for the sole purpose of capturing what appeared +to them an apparently easy prey, and their manœuvres were evidently +intended to embarrass us and distract our attention, I motioned them to +depart with my hand, giving orders at the same time to the boat’s crew +to make ready their oars. This movement, of necessity, caused them to +declare their purposes, and they manifested them by audaciously laying +their hands on the oars, and arresting the attempts of the boat’s crew +to row. Either we were free or we were not. If yet free men, with the +power to defend our freedom, we must be permitted to continue our voyage +on the sea without let or hindrance. If not free men, we had first to be +disarmed. I seized my gun, and motioned them again to depart. With a +loud, scornful cry they caught up their spears and shields, and prepared +to launch their weapons. To be saved, we must act quickly, and I fired +over their heads; and as they fell back from the boat, I bade my men +pull away. Forming a line on each side of us, about 30 yards off, they +flung their spears, which the boat’s crew avoided by dropping into the +bottom of the boat. The canoes astern clapped their hands gleefully, +showing me a large bunch of _Mutunda_ beads which had been +surreptitiously abstracted from the stern of the boat. I seized my +repeating rifle and fired in earnest, to right and left. The fellow with +the beads was doubled up, and the boldest of those nearest to us was +disabled. The big rifle, aimed at the waterline of two or three of the +canoes, perforated them through and through, which compelled the crews +to pay attention to their sinking crafts, and permitted us to continue +our voyage into Napoleon Channel and to examine the Ripon Falls.[11] On +an uninhabited point of Usoga, near the falls, we encamped; and on the +29th of March crossed the channel, and coasted along Uganda between +numerous islands, the largest of which are densely inhabited. + +At Kiwa Island we rested for the day, and were received with the +greatest cordiality by the chief, who sent messengers to the island of +Keréngé, a distance of three miles, to purchase bananas and jars of +maramba wine, for the guest, as he said, of the _Kabaka_ Mtesa. As it +was the first time for twenty-two days that we had lived with natives +since leaving Kagehi we celebrated, as we were in duty bound, our +arrival among friends. + +_March 30._—The next day, guided and escorted by the chief, we entered +Ukafu, where we found a tall handsome young Mtongoleh in command of the +district, before whom the chief of Kiwa Island made obeisance as before +a great lord. The young Mtongoleh, though professing an ardent interest +in us, and voluble of promises, treated us only to Barmecide fare after +waiting twenty-four hours. Perceiving that his courtesies, though +suavely proffered, failed to satisfy the cravings of our jaded stomachs, +we left him still protesting enormous admiration for us, and still +volubly assuring us that he was preparing grand hospitalities in our +honour. + +I was staggered when I understood in its full extent the perfect art +with which we had been duped. “Could this be Central Africa,” I asked +myself, “wherein we find such perfect adepts in the art of deception? +But two days ago the savagery of the land was intense and real, for +every man’s hand was raised in ferocity against the stranger. In the +land next adjoining we find a people polite, agreeable, and professing +the warmest admiration for the stranger, but as inhospitable as any +hotel-keeper in London or New York to a penniless guest!” + +At a little village in the bay of Buka we discovered we were premature +in our judgment. The Mtongoleh at this place invited us to his village, +spread out before us a feast of new as well as clotted milk, mellow and +ripe bananas, a kid, sweet-potatoes, and eggs, and despatched a +messenger instantly to the _Kabaka_ Mtesa to announce the coming of a +stranger in the land, declaring, at the same time, his intention not to +abandon us until he had brought us face to face with the great monarch +of Equatorial Africa, in whom, he smilingly assured us, we should meet a +friend, and under whose protection we might sleep secure. + +_April 1._—We halted one more day to enjoy the bounteous fare of the +chief of Buka. My admiration for the land and the people steadily +increased, for I experienced with each hour some pleasing civility. +The land was in fit accord with the people, and few more interesting +prospects could Africa furnish than that which lovingly embraces the +bay of Buka. From the margin of the lake, lined by waving water-cane, +up to the highest hill-top, all was verdure—of varying shades. The +light green of the elegant matete contrasted with the deeper tints of +the various species of fig; the satin-sheeny fronds of the graceful +plantains were overlapped by clouds of the pale foliage of the +tamarind; while between and around all, the young grass of the pastured +hillsides spreads its emerald carpet. In free, bold, and yet graceful +outline, the hills shut in the scene, swelling upward in full dome-like +contour, here sweeping round to enclose within its hollow a gorgeous +plantain-grove, there projecting boldly into abrupt, steep headlands, +and again receding in a succession of noble terraces into regions as +yet unexplored by the white man. One village had a low pebbly beach, +that ran in a sinuous light-grey line between the darker grey face +of the lake and the living perennial green of a banana plantation. I +imagined myself fallen into an estate which I had inherited by right +divine and human, or at least I felt something akin to that large +feeling which heirs of unencumbered broad lands may be supposed to +feel, and attributed such an unusual feeling to an attack of perfect +digestion, and a free, unclogged, and undisturbed liver. + +_April 2._—On the 2nd of April we proceeded, in an amiable, +light-hearted mood, the favourites both of men and nature, along the +beautiful shore separating Buka Bay from Kadzi Bay, and halted about +noon at the village of Kirudo, where we experienced hospitalities +similar to those of the day previous. We purposely made our voyages +short, in order that the _Kabaka_ might be informed in time of our +coming. + +_April 3._—Just as we were about to depart next morning, we saw six +beautiful canoes, crowded with men, coming round a point, and for a very +short period were under the impression that they composed another +piratical fleet on its way to intercept us, but on surveying them with +my glass I saw that several who were seated amidships were dressed in +white, like the Wangwana, and our Waganda guides, among whom was our +hospitable entertainer of Buka, informed us that they were the +_Kabaka’s_ people. As they approached us, the commander was seen +arraying himself for the occasion. He donned a bead-worked head-dress, +above which long white cock’s feathers waved, and a snowy white and +long-haired goat-skin, while a crimson robe, depending from his +shoulders, completed the full dress. + +In the middle of the bay of Kadzi we encountered, and a most ceremonious +greeting took place. The commander was a fine lusty young man of twenty +or thereabouts, and after springing into our boat he knelt down before +me, and declared his errand to the following effect:— + +“The _Kabaka_ sends me with many salaams to you. He is in great hopes +that you will visit him, and has encamped at Usavara, that he may be +near the lake when you come. He does not know from what land you have +come, but I have a swift messenger with a canoe who will not stop until +he gives all the news to the _Kabaka_. His mother dreamed a dream a few +nights ago, and in her dream she saw a white man on this lake in a boat +coming this way, and the next morning she told the _Kabaka_, and, lo! +you have come. Give me your answer, that I may send the messenger. +Twiyanzi-yanzi-yanzi!” (Thanks, thanks, thanks.) + +Whereupon, as the young commander, whose name was Magassa, understood +Kiswahili, I delivered the news to him and to his people freely and +frankly; and after I had ended, Magassa translated what the information +was into Kiganda, and immediately the messenger departed. Meanwhile +Magassa implored me to rest for this one day, that he might show me the +hospitality of his country, and that I might enter the _Kabaka’s_ +presence in good humour with him. Persuaded also by my boat’s crew to +consent, we rowed to the village of Kadzi. Magassa was in his glory now. +His voice became imperious to his escort of 182 men; even the feathers +of his curious head-dress waved prouder, and his robe had a sweeping +dignity worthy of a Roman emperor’s. Upon landing, Magassa’s stick was +employed frequently. The sub-chief of Kadzi was compelled to yield +implicit obedience to his vice-regal behests. + +“Bring out bullocks, sheep, and goat’s milk, and the mellowest of your +choicest bananas, and great jars of maramba, and let the white man and +his boatmen eat, and taste of the hospitalities of Uganda. Shall a white +man enter the _Kabaka’s_ presence with an empty belly? See how sallow +and pinched his cheeks are. We want to see whether we cannot show him +kindness superior to what the pagans have shown him.” + +Two bullocks and four goats, a basketful of fat mellow bananas, and four +two gallon jars of maramba, were then brought before us, to which +extraordinary bounty the boat’s crew did ample justice. Nor were the +escort of Magassa without supplies. The country was at their mercy. They +killed three bullocks for themselves, cut down as many bananas as they +wished, and made a raid on the chickens, in accordance with Magassa’s +serene gracious permission to help themselves. + +“A wonderful land!” I thought, “where an entire country can be subjected +to such an inordinate bully and vain youth as this Magassa, at the mere +mention of the _Kabaka’s_ name, and very evidently with the _Kabaka’s_ +sanction!” Uganda was new to us then. We were not aware how supreme the +_Kabaka’s_ authority was; but, having a painful suspicion that the vast +country which recognised his power was greatly abused, and grieving that +the poor people had to endure such rough treatment for my sake, I did my +best to prevent Magassa from extorting to excess. + +_April 4._—The next day we sallied forth from Kadzi Bay, with Magassa’s +escort leading the way. We crossed Bazzi Bay, from the middle of which +we gained a view of old Sabaganzi’s Hill, a square tabular mount, from +the summit of which Magassa said we should see the whole of Murchison +Bay and Rubaga, one of the _Kabaka’s_ capitals. About 10 A.M. we rounded +Muvwo Point, and entered Murchison Bay. The entrance is about four miles +wide, and naturally guarded by Linant Island, a lofty, dome-shaped +island, situated between the opposing points of Muvwo and Umbiru. Upon +leaving Muvwo south of us we have a full view of this fine body of +water, which reaches its extreme width between Soweh Island and Ukumba. +This, the farthest reach of its waters west, is about ten miles across, +while its extreme length, from Linant Island to the arm of Monyono Bay, +where Mtesa keeps his favourite canoes, cannot be less than fourteen +miles. + +We encamped, according to Magassa’s wish, behind Soweh Island, on the +east side of Murchison Bay, whence, the next day, we were to start for +Usavara, the _Kabaka’s_ hunting village. + +----- + +# 9: + + Out of respect to the memory of Captain Speke, I leave the word Nyanza + as he spelled it, adding only the explanation that none but the Arabs + and Wangwana pronounce it N’yanza. All the native tribes and nations + round the lake pronounce it either Nee-yanja or Nee-yanza, Niyanja or + Niyanza. + +# 10: + + Rugedzi is the name of the narrow channel which separates Ukerewé from + the mainland. + +# 11: + + A more detailed account of this part of the lake will be given in + later chapters, as I paid three visits to the Ripon Falls, and during + the third visit photographed them. + + + + + CHAPTER IX. + +An extraordinary monarch—I am examined—African “chaff”—Mtesa, Emperor of + Uganda—Description of Mtesa—A naval review—Arrival at the imperial + capital—Mtesa’s palace—Fascination of the country—I meet a white man— + Col. Linant de Bellefonds—The process of conversion—A grand mission + field—A pleasant day with Col. de Bellefonds—Starting for my camp. + + +_April 5._—The little insight we obtained into the manners of Uganda +between Soweh Island, Murchison Bay, and Kiwa Island, near Ukafu Bay, +impressed us with the consciousness that we were about to become +acquainted with an extraordinary monarch and an extraordinary people, +as different from the barbarous pirates of Uvuma, and the wild, +mop-headed men of Eastern Usukuma, as the British in India are from +their Afridi fellow-subjects, or the white Americans of Arkansas from +the semi-civilized Choctaws. If politeness could so govern the actions +of the men of Kiwa Island, far removed as they were from contact with +the Uganda court, and suave duplicity could so well be practised by the +Mtongoleh of Ukafu, and such ready, ungrudging hospitality be shown by +the chief of Buka, and the _Kabaka’s_ orders be so promptly executed +by Magassa, the messenger, and the chief of Kadzi, what might we not +expect at the court, and what manner of man might not this “_Kabaka_” +be! + +Such were our reflections as Magassa, in his superb canoe, led the way +from behind Soweh Island, and his little slave drummed an accompaniment +to the droning chant of his canoe-men. + +Compared with our lonely voyage from our camp at Usukuma round all the +bays and inlets of the much-indented coasts of the Great Lake, these +five superb canoes forming line in front of our boat, escorting us to +the presence of the great potentate of Equatorial Africa, formed a scene +which promised at least novelty, and a view of some extraordinary pomp +and ceremony. + +When about two miles from Usavara, we saw what we estimated to be +thousands of people arranging themselves in order on a gently rising +ground. When about a mile from the shore, Magassa gave the order to +signal our advance upon it with fire-arms, and was at once obeyed by his +dozen musketeers. Half a mile off I saw that the people on the shore had +formed themselves into two dense lines, at the ends of which stood +several finely-dressed men, arrayed in crimson and black and snowy +white. As we neared the beach, volleys of musketry burst out from the +long lines. Magassa’s canoes steered outward to right and left, while +200 or 300 heavily loaded guns announced to all around that the white +man—whom Mtesa’s mother had dreamed about—had landed. Numerous kettle +and bass drums sounded a noisy welcome, and flags, banners, and +bannerets waved, and the people gave a great shout. Very much amazed at +all this ceremonious and pompous greeting, I strode up towards the great +standard, near which stood a short young man, dressed in a crimson robe +which covered an immaculately white dress of bleached cotton, before +whom Magassa, who had hurried ashore, kneeled reverently, and turning to +me begged me to understand that this short young man was the _Katekiro_. +Not knowing very well who the “Katekiro” was, I only bowed, which, +strange to say, was imitated by him, only that his bow was far more +profound and stately than mine. I was perplexed, confused, embarrassed, +and I believe I blushed inwardly at this regal reception, though I hope +I did not betray my embarrassment. + +A dozen well-dressed people now came forward, and grasping my hand +declared in the Swahili language that I was welcome to Uganda. The +_Katekiro_ motioned with his head, and amid a perfect concourse of +beaten drums, which drowned all conversation, we walked side by side, +and followed by curious thousands, to a courtyard, and a circle of +grass-thatched huts surrounding a larger house, which I was told were my +quarters. + +The _Katekiro_ and several of the chiefs accompanied me to my new hut, +and a very sociable conversation took place. There was present a native +of Zanzibar, named Tori, whom I shortly discovered to be chief drummer, +engineer, and general jack-of-all-trades for the _Kabaka_. From this +clever, ingenious man I obtained the information that the _Katekiro_ was +the prime minister, or the _Kabaka’s_ deputy, and that the titles of the +other chiefs were Chambarango, Kangau, Mkwenda, Sekebobo, Kitunzi, +Sabaganzi, Kauta, Saruti. There were several more present, but I must +defer mention of them to other chapters. + + ---------------------------------------------------------------- + + [_To face page 148._ + +[Illustration: RECEPTION BY KING MTESA’S BODY-GUARD AT USAVARA.] + + ---------------------------------------------------------------- + +Waganda, as I found subsequently, are not in the habit of remaining +incurious before a stranger. Hosts of questions were fired off at me +about my health, my journey, and its aim, Zanzibar, Europe and its +people, the seas and the heavens, sun, moon, and stars, angels and +devils, doctors, priests, and craftsmen in general; in fact, as the +representative of nations who “know everything,” I was subjected to a +most searching examination, and in one hour and ten minutes it was +declared unanimously that I had “passed.” Forthwith after the +acclamation, the stately bearing became merged into a more friendly one, +and long, thin, nervous black hands were pushed into mine +enthusiastically, from which I gathered that they applauded me as though +I had won the honours of a senior wrangler. Some proceeded direct to the +_Kabaka_ and informed him that the white man was a genius, knew +everything, and was remarkably polite and sociable, and the _Kabaka_ was +said to have “rubbed his hands as though he had just come into the +possession of a treasure.” + +The fruits of the favourable verdict passed upon myself and merits were +seen presently in fourteen fat oxen, sixteen goats and sheep, a hundred +bunches of bananas, three dozen fowls, four wooden jars of milk, four +baskets of sweet-potatoes, fifty ears of green Indian corn, a basket of +rice, twenty fresh eggs, and ten pots of maramba wine. Kauta, Mtesa’s +steward or butler, at the head of the drovers and bearers of these +various provisions, fell on his knees before me and said:— + +“The _Kabaka_ sends salaams unto his friend who has travelled so far to +see him. The _Kabaka_ cannot see the face of his friend until he has +eaten and is satisfied. The _Kabaka_ has sent his slave with these few +things to his friend that he may eat, and at the ninth hour, after his +friend has rested, the _Kabaka_ will send and call for him to appear at +the burzah. I have spoken. Twiyanzi-yanzi-yanzi!” + +I replied suitably, though my politeness was not so excessive as to +induce me to kneel before the courtly butler and thank him for +permission to say I thanked him. + +My boat’s crew were amazed at this imperial bounty, which provided more +than a bullock apiece for each member of my following. Saramba, the +mop-headed guide from Usukuma, was requested to say what he thought +of the _Kabaka_, who gave bullocks and goats in proportion as the +Usukuma chief gave potatoes to his guests. Saramba’s wits were all this +time under a cloud. He was still dressed in the primitive goatskin of +his country, as greasy and dingy as a whaling cook’s pan-cloth—the +greasiest thing I ever saw. He was stared at, jeered, and flouted by +the courtly, cleanly pages of the court, who by this time had taken +such keen and complete mental inventories of my features, traits, +and points of character as would have put to shame even a Parisian +newsmonger. + +“What land is this undressed pagan from?” asked the pages, loud enough +for poor Saramba to hear. + +“Regard the pagan’s hair,” said another. + +“He had better not let the _Kabaka_ see him,” said a third. + +“He is surely a pagan slave—worth about a goat,” remarked a fourth. + +“Not he. I would not buy him for a ripe banana,” ventured a fifth. + +I looked up at Saramba, and half fancied that he paled. + +Poor Saramba! “As soon as they are gone, off goes that mop, and we will +dress you in white cloth,” said Safeni, the coxswain, compassionately. + +But Baraka, one of the boatmen, an incorrigible scoffer, said, “What is +the use? If we give him cloth, will he wear it? No; he will roll it up +and tie it with a piece of string, and save it for his mammy, or sell it +in Usukuma for a goat.” + +To my surprise the boatmen endeavoured to impress the fact on Saramba’s +mind that the _Kabaka_ was a special personal friend of theirs; that all +these cattle, goats, and fowls were the _Kabaka’s_ usual gifts to +Wangwana, and they endeavoured, with a reckless disregard for accuracy, +to enumerate fabulous instances of his generosity to a number of other +Safenis, Sarbokos, Barakas, and Zaidis, all natives, like themselves, of +Zanzibar. Let Englishmen never henceforth indulge in the illusion, or +lay the flattering unction to their self-love, that they are the only +people who have studied the art of “chaff.” The Zanzibaris are perfect +in the art, as the sordid barbarian Saramba discovered to his cost. + +The ninth hour of the day approached. We had bathed, brushed, cleaned +ourselves, and were prepared externally and mentally for the memorable +hour when we should meet the Foremost Man of Equatorial Africa. Two of +the _Kabaka’s_ pages, clad in a costume semi-Kingwana and semi-Kiganda, +came to summon us—the Kingwana part being the long white shirt of +Zanzibar, folded with a belt or band about the loins, the Kiganda part +being the Sohari doti cloth depending from the right shoulder to the +feet. “The _Kabaka_ invites you to the burzah,” said they. Forthwith we +issue from our courtyard, five of the boat’s crew on each side of me +armed with Snider rifles. We reach a short broad street, at the end of +which is a hut. Here the _Kabaka_ is seated with a multitude of chiefs, +Wakungu[12] and Watongoleh, ranked from the throne in two opposing +kneeling or seated lines, the ends being closed in by drummers, guards, +executioners, pages, &c. &c. As we approached the nearest group, it +opened, and the drummers beat mighty sounds; Tori’s drumming being +conspicuous from its sharper beat. The Foremost Man of Equatorial Africa +rises and advances, and all the kneeling and seated lines rise—generals, +colonels, chiefs, cooks, butlers, pages, executioners, &c. &c. + +The _Kabaka_, a tall, clean-faced, large-eyed, nervous-looking, thin +man, clad in a tarbush, black robe, with a white shirt belted with gold, +shook my hands warmly and impressively, and, bowing not ungracefully, +invited me to be seated on an iron stool. I waited for him to show the +example, and then I and all the others seated ourselves. + +He first took a deliberate survey of me, which I returned with interest, +for he was as interesting to me as I was to him. His impression of me +was that I was younger than Speke, not so tall, but better dressed. This +I gathered from his criticisms as confided to his chiefs and favourites. + +My impression of him was that he and I would become better acquainted, +that I should make a convert of him, and make him useful to Africa—but +what other impressions I had may be gathered from the remarks I wrote +that evening in my diary:— + + “As I had read Speke’s book for the sake of its geographical + information, I retained but a dim remembrance of his description of + his life in Uganda. If I remember rightly, Speke described a youthful + prince, vain and heartless, a wholesale murderer and tyrant, one who + delighted in fat women. Doubtless he described what he saw, but it is + far from being the state of things now. Mtesa has impressed me as + being an intelligent and distinguished prince, who, if aided in time + by virtuous philanthropists, will do more for Central Africa than + fifty years of Gospel teaching, unaided by such authority, can do. I + think I see in him the light that shall lighten the darkness of this + benighted region; a prince well worthy the most hearty sympathies that + Europe can give him. In this man I see the possible fruition of + Livingstone’s hopes, for with his aid the civilisation of Equatorial + Africa becomes feasible. I remember the ardour and love which animated + Livingstone when he spoke of Sekeletu; had he seen Mtesa, his ardour + and love for him had been tenfold, and his pen and tongue would have + been employed in calling all good men to assist him.” + +Five days later I wrote the following entry:— + + “I see that Mtesa is a powerful Emperor, with great influence over his + neighbours. I have to-day seen the turbulent Mankorongo, king of Usui, + and Mirambo, that terrible phantom who disturbs men’s minds in + Unyamwezi, through their embassies kneeling and tendering their + tribute to him. I saw over 3000 soldiers of Mtesa nearly half + civilised. I saw about a hundred chiefs who might be classed in the + same scale as the men of Zanzibar and Oman, clad in as rich robes, and + armed in the same fashion, and have witnessed with astonishment such + order and law as is obtainable in semi-civilised countries. All this + is the result of a poor Muslim’s labour; his name is Muley bin Salim. + He it was who first began teaching here the doctrines of Islam. False + and contemptible as these doctrines are, they are preferable to the + ruthless instincts of a savage despot, whom Speke and Grant left + wallowing in the blood of women, and I honour the memory of Muley bin + Salim—Muslim and slave-trader though he be—the poor priest who has + wrought this happy change. With a strong desire to improve still more + the character of Mtesa, I shall begin building on the foundation + stones laid by Muley bin Salim. I shall destroy his belief in Islam, + and teach the doctrines of Jesus of Nazareth.” + +It may easily be gathered from these entries that a feeling of +admiration for Mtesa must have begun very early, and that either Mtesa +is a very admirable man, or that I am a very impressionable traveller, +or that Mtesa is so perfect in the art of duplicity and acted so clever +a part, that I became his dupe. + + [_To face page 152._ + +[Illustration: + + SEKEBOBO, MTESA, CHAMBARANGO, + CHIEF OF CHAGWÉ. THE EMPEROR OF UGANDA. THE CHIEF. + POKINO, THE PRIME MINISTER. + OTHER CHIEFS. + (_From a photograph by the Author._) +] + +The chief reason for admiration lay, probably, in the surprise with +which I viewed the man whom Speke had beheld as a boy—and who was +described by him through about two hundred pages of his book as a vain, +foolish, peevish, headstrong youth and a murderous despot—sedate and +composed in manner, intelligent in his questions and remarks beyond +anything I expected to meet in Africa. That I should see him so well +dressed, the centre of a court equally well dressed and intelligent, +that he should have obtained supremacy over a great region into which +moneyed strangers and soldiers from Cairo and Zanzibar flocked for the +sake of its supreme head, that his subjects should speak of him with +respect, and his guests, so far as I could gather, honour him, were +minor causes, which, I venture to consider, were sufficient to win my +favourable judgment. That he should have been so royally liberal in his +supplies to me, have proffered other courtesies in a tone of sincerity, +and have appeared to me a kindly, friendly soul, who affected all the +dignity of one who entertains a vast respect for himself and his +position without affronting or giving wanton offence to those around him +who also have wants, hopes, and self-respect, may also be offered as +reasons which contributed not a little towards creating a favourable +impression on me. I am aware that there are negrophobists who may +attribute this conduct of Mtesa to a natural gift for duplicity. He is +undoubtedly a man who possesses great natural talents, but he also shows +sometimes the waywardness, petulance, and withal the frank, exuberant, +joyous moods, of youth. I will also admit that Mtesa can be _politic_, +as, indeed, future pages will show, but he has also a child’s unstudied +ease of manner. I soon saw that he was highly clever, and possessed of +the abilities to govern, but his cleverness and ability lacked the +mannerisms of a European’s. + +Whether or no I became Mtesa’s dupe will be seen in the chapters on +Uganda. Meanwhile, he appeared to me to be a generous prince and a frank +and intelligent man, and one whose character was well worth studying for +its novel intensity and extreme originality, and also as one whom I +judged could be made to subserve higher ends than he suspected he was +fashioned for. I met his friendly advances with the utmost cordiality, +and the burzah concluded at sunset, with the same ceremony that had +inaugurated it, leaving Mtesa and myself mutually pleased and gratified +with our acquaintance. + +A description of Mtesa’s person was written in my diary on the third +evening of my visit to him, from which I quote:— + + “_April 7._—In person Mtesa is tall, probably 6 feet 1 inch, and + slender. He has very intelligent and agreeable features, reminding me + of some of the faces of the great stone images at Thebes, and of the + statues in the Museum at Cairo. He has the same fulness of lips, but + their grossness is relieved by the general expression of amiability + blended with dignity that pervades his face, and the large, lustrous, + lambent eyes that lend it a strange beauty, and are typical of the + race from which I believe him to have sprung. His colour is of a dark + red brown, of a wonderfully smooth surface. When not engaged in + council, he throws off unreservedly the bearing that characterises him + when on the throne, and gives rein to his humour, indulging in hearty + peals of laughter. He seems to be interested in the discussion of the + manners and customs of European courts, and to be enamoured of hearing + of the wonders of civilisation. He is ambitious to imitate as much as + lies in his power the ways of the white man. When any piece of + information is given him, he takes upon himself the task of + translating it to his wives and chiefs, though many of the latter + understand the Swahili language as well as he does himself.” + +On this day I recorded an interesting event which occurred in the +morning. Mtesa, about 7 A.M., sallied out of his quarters, accompanied +by a host of guards, pages, standard bearers, fifers, drummers, chiefs, +native guests, claimants, &c., and about two hundred women of his +household, and as he passed by my courtyard, he sent one of his pages to +request my presence. While he passed on, I paid some attention to my +toilet, and made as presentable an appearance as my clothes-bag enabled +me, and then, accompanied by two of my boat’s crew as gunbearers, +followed the court to the lake. Mtesa was seated on an iron stool, the +centre of a large group of admiring women, who, as soon as I appeared, +focussed about two hundred pairs of lustrous, humid eyes on my person, +at which he laughed. + +“You see, ‘Stamlee,’” said he, “how my women look at you; they expected +to see you accompanied by a woman of your own colour. I am not jealous +though. Come and sit down.” + +Presently Mtesa whispered an order to a page, who sprang to obey, and +responding to his summons, there darted into view from the bend in +Murchison Bay west of Usavara forty magnificent canoes, all painted an +ochreous brown, which I perceived to be the universally favourite +colour. _En passant_, I have wondered whether they admire this colour +from an idea that it resembles the dark bronze of their own bodies. For +pure Waganda are not black by any means. The women and chiefs of Mtesa, +who may furnish the best specimens of Waganda, are nearly all of a +bronze or a dark reddish brown, with peculiar smooth, soft skins, +rendered still more tender and velvety to the touch by their habit of +shampooing with butter. Some of the women, I observed, were of a very +light red-gold colour, while one or two verged on white. The native +cloths—the national dress—which depended from the right shoulders of the +larger number of those not immediately connected with the court were of +a light brown also. It struck me, when I saw the brown skins, brown +robes, and brown canoes, that brown must be the national colour. + +These forty canoes, which now rode on the calm grey-green waters of +Murchison Bay, contained in the aggregate about 1200 men. The captain of +each canoe was dressed in a white cotton shirt and a cloth head-cover, +neatly folded turban-fashion, while the admiral wore over his shirt a +crimson jacket, profusely decorated with gold braid, and on his head the +red fez of Zanzibar. Each captain, as he passed us, seized shield and +spear, and, with the bravado of a matador addressing the Judge of the +Plaza to behold his prowess, went through the performance of defence and +attack by water. The admiral won the greatest applause, for he was the +Hector of the fleet, and his actions, though not remarkably graceful, +were certainly remarkably extravagant. The naval review over, Mtesa +commanded one of the captains of the canoes to try and discover a +crocodile or a hippopotamus. After fifteen minutes he returned with the +report that there was a young crocodile asleep on a rock about 200 yards +away. “Now, Stamlee,” said Mtesa, “show my women how white men can +shoot.” To represent all the sons of Japhet, on this occasion, was a +great responsibility, but I am happy to say that—whether owing to the +gracious influence of some unseen divinity who has the guardianship of +their interests or whether from mere luck—I nearly severed the head of +the young crocodile from its body at a distance of 100 yards with a +three-ounce ball, which was accepted as conclusive proof that all white +men are dead shots. + +In the afternoon we amused ourselves with target practice, at which an +accident occurred that might have produced grave results. A No. 8 +double-barrelled rifle was fractured in Mtesa’s hands at the second +shot, but fortunately without injuring either him or the page on whose +shoulder it rested. General alarm prevailed for a short time, until +that, seeing it was about to be accepted as a bad omen, I examined the +rifle and showed Mtesa an ancient flaw in the barrel, which his good +sense perceived had led to the fracture. The gun was a very old one, and +had evidently seen much service. + +_April 10._—On the 10th of April the court broke up its hunting lodges +at Usavara, on Murchison Bay, and moved to the capital, whither I was +strongly urged to follow. Mtesa, escorted by about two hundred +musketeers and the great Wakungu and their armed retainers, travelled +quickly, but owing to my being obliged to house my boat from the hot +sun, I did not reach the capital until 1 P.M. + +The road had been prepared for his Imperial Majesty’s hunting excursion, +and was 8 feet wide, through jungle and garden, forest and field. +Beautiful landscapes were thus enjoyed of rolling land and placid lake, +of gigantic tamarinds and gum-trees, of extensive banana groves and +plantations of the ficus, from the bark of which the national dress or +_mbugu_, is made. The peculiar dome-like huts, each with an attempt at a +portico, were buried deep in dense bowers of plantains which filled the +air with the odour of their mellow rich fruit. + +The road wound upward to the summits of green hills which commanded +exquisite prospects, and down again into the sheltered bosoms of woody +nooks, and vales, and tree-embowered ravines. Streams of clear water +murmured through these depressions as they flowed towards Murchison Bay. +The verdure was of a brilliant green, freshened by the unfailing rains +of the Equator; the sky was of the bluest, and the heat, though great, +was tempered by the hill breezes, and frequently by the dense foliage +overhead. + +Within three hours’ march from Usavara, we saw the capital crowning the +summit of a smooth rounded hill—a large cluster of tall conical grass +huts, in the centre of which rose a spacious, lofty, barn-like +structure. The large building, we were told, was the palace! the hill, +Rubaga; the cluster of huts, the imperial capital! + +From each side of the tall cane fence enclosing the grass huts on +Rubaga hill radiated very broad avenues, imperial enough in width. +Arriving at the base of the hill, and crossing by a “corduroy” road +over a broad slimy ooze, we came up to one of these avenues, the +ground of which was a reddish clay strongly mixed with the detritus of +hematite. It gave a clear breadth of 100 feet of prepared ground, and +led by a gradual ascent to the circular road which made the circuit of +the hill outside the palace enclosure. Once on the dome-like height, +we saw that we had arrived by the back avenue, for the best view of +this capital of magnificent distances was that which was obtained by +looking from the burzah of the palace, and carrying the eye over the +broad front highway, on each side of which, as far as could be defined +from the shadows of the burzah, the Wakungu had their respective courts +and houses, embowered in gardens of banana and fig. Like the enclosure +round the palace courts and quarters, each avenue was fenced with tall +_matete_ (water-cane) neatly set very close together in uniform rows. +The by-streets leading from one avenue to another were narrow and +crooked. + +While I stood admiring the view, a page came up, and, kneeling, +announced that he had been despatched by the Emperor to show me my +house. Following him, I was ushered within a corner lot of the fenced +square, between two avenues, into what I might appropriately term a +“garden villa” of Uganda. My house, standing in the centre of a plantain +garden about 100 feet square, was 20 feet long, and of a marquee shape, +with a miniature portico or eave projecting like a bonnet over the +doorway, and was divided into two apartments. Close by, about 30 feet +off, were three dome-like huts for the boat’s crew and the kitchen, and +in a corner of the garden was a railed space for our bullocks and goats. +Were it not that I was ever anxious about my distant camp in Usukuma, I +possessed almost everything requisite to render a month’s stay very +agreeable, and for the time I was as proud of my tiny villa as a London +merchant is of his country house. + +In the afternoon I was invited to the palace. A number of people in +brown robes, or white dresses, some with white goatskins over their +brown robes, others with cords folded like a turban round their heads, +which I heard were distinguishing marks of the executioners, were also +ascending to the burzah. Court after court was passed until we finally +stood upon the level top in front of the great house of cane and straw, +which the Waganda fondly term _Kibuga_, or the Palace. The space at +least was of aulic extent, and the prospect gained at every point was +also worthy of the imperial eyes of the African monarch. + +On all sides rolled in grand waves a voluptuous land of sunshine, and +plenty, and early summer verdure, cooled by soft breezes from the great +equatorial freshwater sea. Isolated hill-cones, similar to that of +Rubaga, or square tabular masses, rose up from the beautiful landscape +to attract, like mysteries, the curious stranger’s observation, and +villages and banana groves of still fresher green, far removed on the +crest of distant swelling ridges, announced that Mtesa owned a land +worth loving. Dark sinuous lines traced the winding courses of deep +ravines filled with trees, and grassy extents of gently undulating +ground marked the pastures; broader depressions suggested the cultivated +gardens and the grain fields, while on the far verge of the horizon we +saw the beauty and the charm of the land melting into the blues of +distance. + +There is a singular fascination about this country. The land would be +loved for its glorious diversified prospects, even though it were a +howling wilderness; but it owes a great deal of the power which it +exercises over the imagination to the consciousness that in it dwells a +people peculiarly fascinating also. “How comes it,” one asks, “that this +barbarous, uneducated, and superstitious monarch builds upon this +height?” Not for protection, surely, for he has smoothed the uneven +ground and formed broad avenues to approach it, and a single torch would +suffice to level all his fences? Does he, then, care for the charms of +the prospect? Has he also an eye to the beauties of nature? + +Were this monarch as barbarous as other African chiefs whom I had met +between Zanzibar and Napoleon Channel, he would have sought a basin, or +the slope of some ridge, or some portion of the shores of the lake where +his cattle might best graze, and would there have constructed his grass +dwellings. But this man builds upon a hill that he may look abroad, and +take a large imperial view of his land. He loves ample room; his house +is an African palace, spacious and lofty; large clean courtyards +surround it; he has spacious quarters for his harem, and courtyards +round those; he has spacious quarters for his guards, and extensive +courtyards round those; a cane enclosure surrounds all, and beyond the +enclosure again is a wide avenue running round the palace fences. His +people, great and small, imitate him as much as lies in their power. +They are well dressed, and immodesty is a crime in the land. Yet I am +still in Africa, and only yesterday, as it were, I saw naked men and +naked women. It may be that such a monarch and people fascinate me as +much as their land. The human figures in the landscape have, indeed, as +much interest for me as the gracious landscape itself. + +The drums sounded. Mtesa had seated himself on the throne, and we +hastened to take our seats. + +Since the 5th of April, I had enjoyed ten interviews with Mtesa, and +during all I had taken occasion to introduce topics which would lead up +to the subject of Christianity. Nothing occurred in my presence but I +contrived to turn it towards effecting that which had become an object +to me, viz., his conversion. There was no attempt made to confuse him +with the details of any particular doctrine. I simply drew for him the +image of the Son of God humbling Himself for the good of all mankind, +white and black, and told him how, while He was in man’s disguise, He +was seized and crucified by wicked people who scorned His divinity, and +yet out of His great love for them, while yet suffering on the cross, He +asked His great Father to forgive them. I showed the difference in +character between Him whom white men love and adore, and Mohammed, whom +the Arabs revere; how Jesus endeavoured to teach mankind that we should +love all men, excepting none, while Mohammed taught his followers that +the slaying of the pagan and the unbeliever was an act that merited +Paradise. I left it to Mtesa and his chiefs to decide which was the +worthier character. I also sketched in brief the history of religious +belief from Adam to Mohammed. I had also begun to translate to him the +Ten Commandments, and Idi, the Emperor’s writer, transcribed in Kiganda +the words of the Law as given to him in choice Swahili by Robert Feruzi, +one of my boat’s crew, and a pupil of the Universities Mission at +Zanzibar. + +The enthusiasm with which I launched into this work of teaching was soon +communicated to Mtesa and some of his principal chiefs, who became so +absorbingly interested in the story as I gave it to them that little of +other business was done. The political burzah and seat of justice had +now become an alcove, where only the moral and religious laws were +discussed. + +Before we broke up our meeting Mtesa informed me that I should meet a +_white man_ at his palace the next day. + +“A white man, or a Turk?” + +“A white man like yourself,” repeated Mtesa. + +“No; impossible!” + +“Yes, you will see. He comes from Masr (Cairo), from Gordoom (Gordon) +Pasha.” + +“Ah, very well, I shall be glad to see him, and if he is really a white +man I may probably stay with you four or five days longer,” said I to +Mtesa, as I shook hands with him, and bade him good-night. + +_April 11._—The “white man,” reported to be coming the next day, arrived +at noon with great éclat and flourishes of trumpets, the sound of which +could be heard all over the capital. Mtesa hurried off a page to invite +me to his burzah. I hastened up by a private entrance. Mtesa and all his +chiefs, guards, pages, executioners, claimants, guests, drummers and +fifers were already there, _en grande tenue_. + +Mtesa was in a fever, as I could see by the paling of the colour under +his eyes and his glowing eyeballs. The chiefs shared their master’s +excitement. + +“What shall we do,” he asked, “to welcome him?” + +“Oh, form your troops in line from the entrance to the burzah down to +the gate of the outer court, and present arms, and as he comes within +the gate, let your drums and fifes sound a loud welcome.” + +“Beautiful!” said Mtesa. “Hurry Tori, Chambarango, Sekebobo; form them +in two lines just as Stamlee says. Oh, that is beautiful! And shall we +fire guns, Stamlee?” + +“No, not until you shake hands with him; and as he is a soldier, let the +guards fire, then they will not injure anyone.” + +Mtesa’s flutter of excitement on this occasion made me think that there +must have been a somewhat similar scene before my landing at Usavara, +and that Tori must have been consulted frequently upon the form of +ceremony to be adopted. + +What followed upon the arrival of the white man at the outer gate had +best be told as an interlude by the stranger himself: + + “At two o’clock, the weather having cleared up, Mtesa sent a messenger + to inform me that he was ready to receive me. Notice is given in the + camp; every one puts on his finest clothes; at last we are ready; my + brave Soudanians look quite smart in their red jackets and white + trousers. I place myself at their heads; trumpets flourish and drums + sound as we follow an avenue from eighty-five to a hundred yards wide, + running direct north and south, and terminating at Mtesa’s palace.”... + + “On entering this court, I am greeted with a frightful uproar; a + thousand instruments, each one more outlandish than the other, produce + the most discordant and deafening sounds. Mtesa’s bodyguard, carrying + guns, present arms on my appearance; the king is standing at the + entrance of the reception hall. I approach and bow to him _à la + turque_. He holds out his hand, which I press; I immediately perceive + a sunburnt European to the left of the king, a traveller, whom I + imagine to be Cameron. We exchange glances without speaking. + + “Mtesa enters the reception room, and we follow him. It is a narrow + hall about 60 feet long by 15 feet wide, the ceiling of which, sloping + down at the entrance, is supported by a double row of wooden pillars + which divide the room into two aisles. The principal and central room + is unoccupied, and leads to the king’s throne; the two aisles are + filled with the great dignitaries and chief officers. At each pillar + stands one of the king’s guard, wearing a long red mantle, a white + turban ornamented with monkey skin, white trousers and black blouse + with a red band. All are armed with guns. + + “Mtesa takes his place on his throne, which is a wooden seat in the + shape of an office arm-chair; his feet rest upon a cushion; the whole + placed on a leopard’s skin spread over a Smyrna carpet. Before the + king is a highly polished elephant’s tusk, and at his feet are two + boxes containing fetishes; on either side the throne is a lance (one + copper, the other steel), each held by a guard; these are the insignia + of Uganda; the dog which Speke mentions has been done away with. + Crouching at the foot of the king are the vizier and two scribes. + + “Mtesa is dignified in his manner, and does not lack a certain natural + air of distinction; his dress is elegant: a white _couftan_ finished + with a red band, stockings, slippers, vest of black cloth embroidered + with gold, and a _tarbouche_ with a silver plate on the top. He wears + a sword with ivory-inlaid hilt (a Zanzibar weapon), and a staff. + + “I exhibited my presents, which Mtesa scarcely pretended to see, his + dignity forbidding him to show any curiosity. + + “I address the traveller, who sits in front of me, on the left of the + king: ‘Have I the honour of speaking to Mr. Cameron?’ + + “STANLEY. ‘No, sir; Mr. Stanley.’ + + “MYSELF. ‘M. Linant de Bellefonds, member of the Gordon-Pasha + Expedition.’ + + “We bow low to each other, as though we had met in a drawing-room, and + our conversation is at an end for the moment. + + “This meeting with Mr. Stanley greatly surprises me. Stanley was far + from my thoughts; I was totally ignorant of the object of his + Expedition. + + “I take leave of the king, who meanwhile has been amusing himself by + making my unlucky soldiers parade and flourish their trumpets. I shake + hands with Mr. Stanley, and ask him to honour me with his presence at + dinner. + + “I had scarcely been more than a few minutes in my hut when Mr. + Stanley arrived. After having mutually expressed the pleasure our + meeting gave us, Mr. Stanley informed me that Cameron had written from + Ujiji that he was starting for the Congo. Mr. Cameron, he told me, + must have been much embarrassed by the question of money, having + exceeded the amount allowed by the Royal Geographical Society. At + Ujiji, he would have lost all his companions, and would be actually + alone. Mr. Stanley was loud in his praises of Cameron, and hoped that + he would succeed in his expedition.”... + + “Leaving his expedition at Usukuma, Mr. Stanley embarked with eleven + men on the Victoria Lake, in a small boat which he had brought with + him; he explored all the eastern part of the lake, penetrating into + all the bays, gulfs, and creeks, and taking the bearings of islands + and capes. I saw Mr. Stanley’s work, which is very extensive. He + showed me some curious sketches of islands he had seen; the islands of + the Bridge, the Grotto, and the Sphinx. The first is a natural bridge + of granite, with all the appearance of a bridge made by the hand of + man; the second is like the grotto of the enchantress Calypso; the + third greatly resembles the Egyptian Sphinx.”... + +Colonel Linant de Bellefonds having thus described our meeting, there +remains but little for me to add. + +As soon as I saw him approaching the burzah, I recognised him to be a +Frenchman. Not being introduced to him—and as I was then but a mere +guest of Mtesa, with whom it was M. Linant’s first desire to converse—I +simply bowed to him, until he had concluded addressing the Emperor, when +our introduction took place as he has described. + +I was delighted at seeing him, and much more delighted when I discovered +that M. Linant was a very agreeable man. I observed that there was a +vast difference between his treatment of his men and the manner in which +I treated mine, and that his intercourse with the Waganda was conducted +after exactly opposite principles to those which governed my conduct. He +adopted a half military style which the Waganda ill brooked, and many +things uncomplimentary to him were uttered by them. He stationed guards +at the entrance to his courtyard to keep the Waganda at a distance, +except those bearing messages from Mtesa, while my courtyard was nearly +full of Watongolehs, soldiers, pages, children, with many a dark-brown +woman listening with open ears to my conversation with the Waganda. In +fact, my courtyard from morning to night swarmed with all classes, for I +loved to draw the natives to talk, so that perfect confidence might be +established between us, and I might gain an insight into their real +natures. By this freer converse with them I became, it seemed, a +universal favourite, and obtained information sufficient to fill two +octavo volumes. + +M. Linant passed many pleasant hours with me. Though he had started from +Cairo previous to my departure from Zanzibar, and consequently could +communicate no news from Europe, I still felt that for a brief period I +enjoyed civilised life. His _cuisine_ was after the French fashion. He +possessed French beans and olive oil, various potted meats of Paris +brands, _pâtés de foie gras_ and Bologna sausage, sardines and +Marseilles biscuits, white sugar, coffee, cocoa, chocolate, and tea. If +we add to this list the articles that the natives and Mtesa’s bounty +furnished—milk, beef, kid, green and ripe bananas, eggs, sweet-potatoes, +tomatoes, melons, and cassava flour—it will be seen that his cook had +abundance of material wherewith to supply and satisfy our moderate +gastronomic tastes. The pleasure we mutually felt in each other’s +company, and the exceptional good health which blessed us, sharpened our +appetites and improved our digestion. The religious conversations which +I had begun with Mtesa were maintained in the presence of M. Linant de +Bellefonds, who, fortunately for the cause I had in view, was a +Protestant.[13] For when questioned by Mtesa about the facts which I had +uttered, and which had been faithfully transcribed, M. Linant, to +Mtesa’s astonishment, employed nearly the same words, and delivered the +same responses. The remarkable fact that two white men, who had never +met before, one having arrived from the south-east, the other having +emerged from the north, should nevertheless both know the same things, +and respond in the same words, charmed the popular mind without the +burzah as a wonder, and was treasured in Mtesa’s memory as being +miraculous. + +The period of my stay with Mtesa drew to a close, and I requested leave +to depart, begging the fulfilment of a promise he had made to me that he +would furnish me with transport sufficient to convey the Expedition by +water from Kagehyi in Usukuma to Uganda. Nothing loth, since one white +man would continue his residence with him till my return, and being +eager to see the gifts I told him were safe at Usukuma, he gave his +permission, and commanded Magassa to collect thirty canoes, and to +accompany me to my camp. + +_April 15._—On the 15th of April, then, escorted by Magassa and his +Watongolehs, and also by M. Linant and ten of his Nubian soldiers, we +left Rubaga. + +We arrived at Usavara about 10 A.M., and I imagined, foolishly enough, +that Magassa would be ready for the voyage. But the Magassa of the 15th +of April was several grades higher in his own estimation than the +Magassa of the 1st of April. Fifteen days’ life in the Emperor’s favour +and promotion to an admiralship had intoxicated the youth. Magassa could +not be ready for two days. + +“Not if I send a messenger back to Mtesa with this information?” I +asked. + +“Ah, yes, perhaps to-morrow morning.” + +“Only a few hours longer, M. Linant; so it does not matter much. +Meantime we will take possession of our old quarters at Usavara, and +pass the evening in a ramble along the shores of the bay, or a sail in +the boat.” To which suggestion M. Linant assented. + +There was matter sufficient to engage us in conversation. The rich +region we trod, landscapes steeped in most vivid green, the splendour of +the forest foliage, the magnificent lake of Equatorial Africa, studded +with a thousand isles, the broad and now placid arm known as Murchison +Bay, the diversity of scenery, the nature of the rocks, the variety of +the plants, ourselves met upon this far strand of the inland sea, to +part perhaps for ever—a continuous chain of topics which, with an +intelligent and sympathetic companion like M. Linant, might have served +to make our rambles and our evenings in the hut enjoyable for weeks. + +In the evening I concluded my letters dated 14th of April 1875, which +were sent to the _Daily Telegraph_ and the _New York Herald_, the +English and American journals I represented here, appealing for a +Christian mission to be sent to Mtesa. + +The appeal written hurriedly, and included in the letter left at +Usavara, was as follows:— + + “I have, indeed, undermined Islamism so much here that Mtesa has + determined henceforth, until he is better informed, to observe the + Christian Sabbath as well as the Muslim Sabbath, and the great + captains have unanimously consented to this. He has further caused the + Ten Commandments of Moses to be written on a board for his daily + perusal—for Mtesa can read Arabic—as well as the Lord’s Prayer and the + golden commandment of our Saviour, ‘Thou shalt love thy neighbour as + thyself.’ This is great progress for the few days that I have remained + with him, and, though I am no missionary, I shall begin to think that + I might become one if such success is feasible. But oh! that some + pious, practical missionary would come here! What a field and harvest + ripe for the sickle of civilisation! Mtesa would give him anything he + desired—houses, lands, cattle, ivory, etc.! he might call a province + his own in one day. It is not the mere preacher, however, that is + wanted here. The bishops of Great Britain collected, with all the + classic youth of Oxford and Cambridge, would effect nothing by mere + talk with the intelligent people of Uganda. It is the practical + Christian tutor, who can teach people how to become Christians, cure + their diseases, construct dwellings, understand and exemplify + agriculture, and turn his hand to anything, like a sailor—this is the + man who is wanted. Such an one, if he can be found, would become the + saviour of Africa. He must be tied to no church or sect, but profess + God and His Son and the moral law, and live a blameless Christian, + inspired by liberal principles, charity to all men, and devout faith + in Heaven. He must belong to no nation in particular, but to the + entire white race. Such a man or men, Mtesa, Emperor of Uganda, Usogo, + Unyoro, and Karagwé—an empire 360 geographical miles in length, by 50 + in breadth—invites to repair to him. He has begged me to tell the + white men that, if they will only come to him, he will give them all + they want. Now, where is there in all the pagan world a more promising + field for a mission than Uganda? Colonel Linant de Bellefonds is my + witness that I speak the truth, and I know he will corroborate all I + say. The Colonel, though a Frenchman, is a Calvinist, and has become + as ardent a well-wisher for the Waganda as I am. Then why further + spend needlessly vast sums upon black pagans of Africa who have no + example of their own people becoming Christians before them? I speak + to the Universities Mission at Zanzibar and to the Free Methodists at + Mombasa, to the leading philanthropists, and the pious people of + England. ‘Here, gentlemen, is your opportunity—embrace it! The people + on the shores of the Nyanza call upon you. Obey your own generous + instincts, and listen to them; and I assure you that in one year you + will have more converts to Christianity than all other missionaries + united can number. The population of Mtesa’s kingdom is very dense; I + estimate the number of his subjects at 2,000,000. You need not fear to + spend money upon such a mission, as Mtesa is sole ruler, and will + repay its cost tenfold with ivory, coffee, otter skins of a very fine + quality, or even in cattle, for the wealth of this country in all + these products is immense. The road here is by the Nile, or viâ + Zanzibar, Ugogo, and Unyanyembé. The former route, so long as Colonel + Gordon governs the countries of the Upper Nile, seems the most + feasible.’” + +When the letters were written and sealed, I committed them to the charge +of Colonel Linant. My friend promised he would await my return from +Usukuma; meanwhile he lent me a powerful field-glass, as mine, being +considerably injured, had been given to Mtesa. + +Magassa was not ready on the second day of our arrival. One of his women +had absconded, or some of Mtesa’s chiefs had seized her. Only ten canoes +had arrived by the evening of the 16th. + +_April 17._—The parting between M. Linant and myself, I shall allow him +to describe: + + “At 5 A.M. drums are beaten: the boats going with Stanley are + collecting together. + + “Mr. Stanley and myself are soon ready. The _Lady Alice_ is unmoored; + luggage, sheep, goats, and poultry are already stowed away in their + places. There is nothing to be done except to hoist the American flag + and head the boat southwards. I accompany Stanley to his boat; we + shake hands and commend each other to the care of God. Stanley takes + the helm; the _Lady Alice_ immediately swerves like a spirited horse, + and bounds forward, lashing the water of the Nyanza into foam. The + starry flag is hoisted, and floats proudly in the breeze; I + immediately raise a loud hurrah with such hearty good will as perhaps + never before greeted the traveller’s ears. + + “The _Lady Alice_ is already far away. We wave our handkerchiefs as a + last farewell; my heart is full; I have just lost a brother. I had + grown used to seeing Stanley, the open-hearted, sympathetic man and + friend and admirable traveller. With him I forgot my fatigue; this + meeting had been like a return to my own country. His engaging + instructive conversation made the hours pass like minutes. I hope I + may see him again, and have the happiness of spending several days + with him.” + +----- + +# 12: + + Wakungu is the plural of _mkungu_, a rank equivalent to “general.” + Watongoleh is the plural of _mtongoleh_, or “colonel.” + +# 13: + + In the original manuscript, which is in the possession of General C. + P. Stone, Chief of the Staff in his Highness the Khedive’s service, M. + Linant has alluded in the most flattering manner to these hours + devoted to religious instruction. + + + + + CHAPTER X. + +Parting with Colonel Linant—Magassa’s vanity and disloyalty—The sailor’s + island—Jumba’s Cove—Uganga—Dumo—The Alexandra Nile—Lupassi Point—In + danger at Makongo—Alone with Nature—Insect life—Dreams of a happier + future—A dark secret—Murabo and the fish—Alice Island—A night never to + be forgotten—The treachery of Bumbireh—Saved!—Refuge Island—Wiru—“Go + and die in the Nyanza!”—Back in camp—Sad news. + + +_April 17._—“Adieu! adieu! mon ami Linant! Remember my words, I shall +return within a month; if not, present my compliments to your friends at +Ismailia (Gondokoro), and tell them they may see me on the Albert +Nyanza,” were the last words I said to M. Linant de Bellefonds, as I +seated myself in my boat on the morning of the 17th of April.[14] + +We had scarcely gone three miles on our voyage, before the vanity of the +youth Magassa exceeded all bounds. Deeming it prudent—before it was too +late—to lecture him, and hold out prospects of a reward conditional upon +good behaviour, I called to him to approach me, as I had something to +say to him. He would not come, but continued on his way with a slight +grimace and a saucy inclination of the head. I reserved the lecture +until we should arrive in camp. + +At noon I took observations for latitude at the entrance to Murchison +Bay, and during the afternoon we rowed hard upon our voyage, reaching +Chiwanuko Island near sunset. Magassa soon followed me, and as I landed, +I laid hold of him gently but firmly, and seating him by my side, +employed myself in holding forth grand expectations before him, only, +however, on the condition that he obeyed Mtesa’s orders, behaved well, +and acted in unison with me. Magassa promised faithfully, and as a sign +that he was sincere, begged to be permitted to continue his voyage to +Sessé, a large island where Mtesa’s canoes were beached, to procure the +full quota of thirty promised to me. Leaving five canoes in charge of +Sentum and Sentageya, two of his Watongolehs, he departed by night, +which I thought was a remarkable instance of energy. The truth was, +however, that he only proceeded two miles, and slept at a village, where +he abused his authority by seizing a woman, and binding the chief. + +_April 20._—The next day we proceeded with the Watongolehs, Sentum and +Sentageya, and camped at Jumba’s Cove. Jumba is the hereditary title of +one of the junior admirals in command of a section of the imperial canoe +fleet, to whom is awarded the district of Unjaku, a headland abutting on +the left or north bank of the Katonga river. It is an exceedingly +fertile district, separating Gabunga’s, or the chief admiral’s, district +from Sambuzi’s, a sub-chief of Kitunzi. + +The whole of the north coast from Murchison Bay presents a panorama of +beautiful views, of square table-topped mounts, rounded hills, and cones +forming low ranges, which run in all directions, but with a general +inclination east and west, and form, as it were, a natural boundary to +the lake on the north. These masses of mountain, forming irregular +ranges, suggest to the observer that no rivers of importance issue into +the lake from the north side. They are terminated suddenly at the +Katonga, and from the north-west along their base the river flows +sluggishly into the lake. On the right or southern bank the land appears +to be very low, as far as the hills of Uddu, four miles off. The Katonga +river at this mouth is about 400 yards wide, but its current is very +slow, almost imperceptible. + +Uganda is a lowland district lying at the mouth of the Katonga, on the +south or right bank, whence a large bay with well-wooded shores rounds +from this river to the southward in a crescent form, to Bwiru, from +which point we begin to trace the coast of Uddu. Uganda proper extends +only as far as the Katonga river; from its bank Uddu begins, and +stretches as far as the Alexandra Nile or Kagera. + +Sessé Island extends from a point six miles south of Kibonga, westward +to a point seven miles south of Jumba’s village, and southward—parallel +almost with the coast of Uddu—to a distance of about twenty-three miles. +Its extreme length is about forty-two miles, while its extreme breadth +must be about twenty miles. The principal canoe builders and the greater +number of the sailors of Mtesa’s empire dwell in Sessé, and because of +their coal-black colour, timidity, superstition, and general uncleanly +life, are regarded as the helots of Uganda. + +_April 21._—On the 21st we made a tedious, eventless voyage along the +low, swampy, and jungly shores of Ujaju to Dumo, a village situated on +the mainland nearly opposite the extreme southern end of Sessé Island. +From a curious stony hill near Dumo, which bears traces of ancient +effects of water, we obtained a distant view of the outskirts of a +pastoral plateau rising westward. + +Magassa appeared in the evening from his unsuccessful quest for canoes. +He gave a graphic account of the dangers he had encountered at Sessé, +whose inhabitants declared they would rather be beheaded by the _Kabaka_ +than risk themselves on an endless voyage on the stormy sea, but he had +obtained a promise from Magura, the admiral in charge of the naval yards +at Sessé, that he would endeavour to despatch fourteen canoes after us. +Meanwhile, Magassa had left me at Chiwanuko with five canoes, but +returned with only two, alleging that the other three leaked so much +that they were not seaworthy. He suggested also that, as Magura might +cause great delay if left alone, I should proceed with Sentum and +Sentageya, and leave him in charge of five. Having witnessed his vanity +and heard of his atrocious conduct near Chiwanuko, I strongly suspected +him of desiring to effect some more mischief at Dumo, but I was +powerless to interpose the strong arm, and therefore left him to answer +for his shortcomings to Mtesa, who would doubtless hear of them before +long. + +After leaving Dumo and Sessé north of us, we had a boundless horizon of +water on the east, while on the west stretched a crescent-shaped bay, +bordered by a dense forest, ending south at Chawasimba Point. From here +another broad bay extends southwards, and is terminated by the +northernmost headland of Uzongora. Into this bay issues the Alexandra +Nile in one powerful deep stream, which, from its volume and dark iron +colour, may be traced several miles out. At its mouth it is about 150 +yards wide, and at two miles above narrows to about 100 yards. We +attempted to ascend higher, but the current was so strong that we made +but slow progress, and after an ascent of three miles were obliged to +abandon it. The plain on either side has a breadth of from five to ten +miles, which during the rainy season is inundated throughout its whole +extent. The deepest soundings we obtained were 85 feet. I know no other +river to equal this in magnitude among the affluents of the Victoria +Nyanza. The Shimeeyu river thus becomes the second largest affluent of +the lake, and the two united would form a river equal to that which has +its exit by the Ripon Falls. + +The Waganda Watongolehs, Sentum and Sentageya, call the Alexandra Nile +the “Mother of the River at Jinja,” or the Ripon Falls. + +The Alexandra Nile constitutes a natural boundary between the +sovereignty of Uganda and its subject kingdoms of Karagwé and Uzongora, +which begin south of the river. The plain of the Alexandra stretches +south a few miles to an irregular line of grassy and treeless mountains, +which are the characteristics of the fine pastoral countries of Uzongora +and Karagwé. At Lupassi Point the mountains project steeply, almost +cliff-like, into the lake, with heights varying from 200 feet to 500 +feet. The steep slopes bristle at many points with grey gneiss rocks— +massy débris from the mountain brows. Near this point I discovered a +stream which had a fall of 3 feet issuing from an orifice in a rocky +cliff, though above it there was not the faintest sign of a watercourse. +In the gullies and clefts of the cliff-sides most beautiful ferns +abounded. + +I managed to climb to the top of the bluffs, and to my surprise +overlooked a plateau, with a grandly rolling surface, covered with +pasture and almost treeless, except near the villages, where grew dense +groves of bananas. Further west, however, the plateau heaves upwards +into mountain masses of the same naked character. Looking towards the +east, directly in front of North Uzongora, stretches an apparently +illimitable silvery sea; but towards the south one or two lofty islands +are visible, situated about twenty-five miles from the mainland, serene +and royal in their lone exclusiveness. + +The first village we halted at on the coast of Uzongora was Makongo. It +nestles in a sheltered nook in a bay-like indentation of the lofty +mountain wall crowded with banana groves and huts scattered under their +impenetrable shades—with a strip of grey gravel beach gently sloping +from the water’s edge about 40 feet upward to where it meets the +prodigious luxury of the grove. There were about a dozen natives clad in +dingy goat-skins seated on the beach, sucking the potent maramba from +gourds when we came up, and without question we hauled our boat and two +canoes high and dry. To our greetings the natives responded readily and +civilly enough. With rather glazed eyes they offered us some of the +equatorial nectar. The voyage had been long on this day, and we were +tired, and it might be that we sighed for such cordial refreshing drink +as was now proferred to us. At any rate, we accepted their hospitable +gift, and sucked heartily, with bland approval of the delicacy of the +liquid, and cordial thanks for their courtesy. An observation for +longitude was taken, the natives looking on pleased and gratified. To +all our questions as to the names of the localities and islands in view +they replied like friends. + +Sunset came. We bade each other good-night. At midnight there was a +fearful drumming heard, which kept us all awake from the sheer violence +of the sound. “Is anything wrong?” we demanded of Sentum and Sentageya. +“Oh, no!” they answered. Still the drumming sounded hoarsely through the +dark night, and the desire for sleep fled. + +My men were all up before dawn, impatient for the day. + +Instinct, startled by that ominous drumming, warned them that something +was wrong. I was still in my boat with drawn curtains, though able to +communicate with my people. At sight of the natives Safeni, the +coxswain, hailed me. As I was dressed, I arranged my guns and soon +stepped out, and my astonishment was great when I perceived that there +were between 200 and 300 natives, all in war costume and armed with +spears, and bows and arrows, and long-handled cleaver-like weapons, with +ample and long cane shields for defence, so close to us. For this +terrible looking body of men stood only about thirty paces off, +regarding us steadfastly. It was such a singular position, so unusual +and so strangely theatrical, that, feeling embarrassed, I hastened to +break the silence, and advanced towards a man whom I recognised as the +elder who had given me some native wine on the previous evening. + +“What means this, my friend?” I asked. “Is anything wrong?” + +He replied rapidly, but briefly and sternly, in the Kinyambu language, +which as I did not understand, I called the Mtongoleh Sentum to +translate for me. + +“What do you mean by drawing your canoes on our beach?” I was told he +asked. + +“Tell him we drew them up lest the surf should batter them to pieces +during the night. The winds are rough sometimes, and waves rise high. +Our canoes are our homes, and we are far from our friends who are +waiting for us. Were our canoes injured or broken how should we return +to our friends?” + +He next demanded, “Know you this is our country?” + +“Yes, but are we doing wrong? Is the beach so soft that it can be hurt +by our canoes? Have we cut down your bananas, or entered into your +houses? Have we molested any of your people? Do you not see our fires by +which we slept exposed to the cold night?” + +“Well, you must leave this place at once. We do not want you here. Go!” + +“That is easily done,” I answered; “and had you told us last night that +our presence was not welcome to you, we should have camped on yonder +island.” + +“What did you come here for?” + +“We came to rest for the night, and to buy food, and is that a crime? Do +you not travel in your canoes? Supposing people received you as you +received us this morning, what would you say? Would you not say they +were bad? Ah, my friend, I did not expect that you who were so good +yesterday would turn out thus! But never mind; we will go away quickly +and quietly, and the _Kabaka_ Mtesa shall hear of this, and judge +between us.” + +“If you wish food, I will send some bananas to yonder island, but you +must go away from this, lest the people, who wish to fight you, should +break out.” + +We soon shoved the boat and two canoes into the water, and I and my +boat’s crew embarked and rowed away a few yards. But Sentum was angry +with the people, and instead of quietly departing, was loudly +expostulating with them. To prevent mischief and the massacre of his +entire party, I shouted to Sentum, commanding him to embark at once, +which after a short time he obeyed, growling. + +We steered for Musira Island, about three miles from Makongo, where we +found four or five canoes from Kamiru’s country loaded with coffee and +butter. The Waganda, Sentum and Sentageya, with feelings embittered +against the natives, seized upon several packages of coffee, which drew +a loud remonstrance from the natives. The Waganda sailors, ever ready +for a scramble, followed their chiefs’ example, and assisted in +despoiling the natives, which caused one of them to appeal to me. I was +busy directing my boat’s crew to set my tent, when I was thus made +acquainted with the conduct of the Waganda. The property taken from them +was restored immediately, and Sentum and Sentageya were threatened with +punishment if they molested them further, and the natives were advised +to leave for another island about five miles north of us, as soon as the +lake should become calm. + +About 10 A.M. the chief of Makongo, true to his promise, sent us ten +bunches of green bananas, sufficient for one day’s provisions for the +sixty-two men, Waganda and Wangwana, of whom our party consisted. + +After these events I strolled alone into the dense and tangled +luxuriance of the jungle woods which lay behind our camp. Knowing that +the people would be discussing their bananas, that no foe could molest +them, and that they could not quarrel with any natives—there being +nobody else on the island of Musira but ourselves—I was able to leave +them to pass the time as they might deem most agreeable. Therefore, with +all the ardour of a boy, I began my solitary exploration. Besides, it +was so rare for me to enjoy solitude and silence in such perfect safety +as was here promised to me. My freedom in these woods, though I was +alone, none could endanger or attempt to restrain; my right to climb +trees, or explore hollows, or stand on my head, or roll about on the +leaves or ruins of branch and bark, or laugh or sing, who could oppose? +Being thus absolute monarch and supreme arbiter over myself, I should +enjoy for a brief period perfect felicity. + +That impulse to jump, to bound, to spring upward and cling to branches +overhead, which is the characteristic of a strong green age, I gave free +rein to. Unfettered for a time from all conventionalisms, and absolved +from that sobriety and steadiness which my position as a leader of half +wild men compelled me to assume in their presence, all my natural +elasticity of body came back to me. I dived under the obstructing bough +or sprang over the prostrate trunk, squeezed into almost impossible +places, crawled and writhed like a serpent through the tangled +undergrowth, plunged down into formidable depths of dense foliage, and +burrowed and struggled with frantic energy among shadowing pyramids of +vines and creepers, which had become woven and plaited by their numbers +into a solid mass. + +What eccentricities of creation I became acquainted with in this +truanting in the wild woods! Ants, red, black, yellow, grey, white, and +parti-coloured, peopling a miniature world with unknown emmet races. +Here were some members of the belligerent warrior caste always +threatening the harmless, and seeking whom they might annoy, and there +the ferocious food-providers, active for the attack, ranging bole, +bough, twigs and leaf for prey; the meek and industrious artisans +absorbed in defending the poor privilege of a short existence; the +frugal neuters tugging enormous loads towards their cunningly +constructed nests; sentries on watch at the doors to defend the +approaches to their fastnesses. They swarmed among the foliage in +columns of foraging and plundering marauders and countless hordes of +ruthless destroyers. In the decaying vegetation I heard all around me +the xylophagous larvæ of great beetles hard at work by thousands, and +saw myriads of termites destroying with industrious fury everything that +lay in their path, whether animal or vegetable. Armies of psyllæ and +moths innumerable were startled from the bushes, and from every bough +shrilled the tiresome cicada, ever noisy. Here the relentless ant-lions +prepared their pitfalls, and there the ghostly mantis, green or grey, +stood waiting for unwary insects. Diamond beetles abounded, and many +other species, uncouth and horrid, scrambled away from before my feet. +Nor are these a thousandth part of the insect nations that I disturbed; +the secluded island was a world of infinite activities. + +Beyond the flats I came at last to where the ground sloped upward +rapidly, though still clothed with tall trees and their parasitical +plants and undergrowth; and in spite of the intense heat, I continued my +exploration, determined to view the upper regions. Clambering up the +steep side, I had a large choice of supports; here a tamarind and next a +bombax, now a projecting branch of mimosa and now a thick lliane, hung +down, inviting me to haul myself upward and forward: the young and +pliant teak sapling or slender jasmine bent as I seized them to assist +my labouring feet, and at last I emerged above the trees and the tangle +of meshed undergrowth, and stood upright on the curious spiky grass, +studded with wild pine-apple, ground orchids and aloes, which covered +the summit. + +After a general look around the island, I discovered it was in the +form of a rudely shaped boot-last, lying east and west, the lowest +parts being the flats through which I had just struggled. It was about +three-quarters of a mile long and about 200 yards wide. The heel +was formed by a narrow projecting ledge rising about 50 feet nearly +perpendicularly from the water. From this ledge rose the rock 80 feet +above it, and 130 feet therefore above the water. + +I gazed long on the grand encircling prospect. A halcyon calm brooded +on the lake, eastward, northward, and southward, until the clear +sky and stainless silver water met, the clear bounds of both veiled +by a gauzy vapour, suggesting infinity. In a bold, majestic mass to +the south-east rose Alice Island, while a few miles south-east of +it appeared the Bumbireh group. Opposite me, to the west, and two +miles from where I stood, was the long cliffy front of the plateau of +Uzongora, its slowly-rising summit gemmed with patches of evergreen +banana, until it became banked in the distance by lines of hazy blue +mountains. + +It is a spot from which, undisturbed, the eye may rove over one of the +strangest yet fairest portions of Africa—hundreds of square miles of +beautiful lake scenes—a great length of grey plateau wall, upright and +steep, but indented with exquisite inlets, half surrounded by embowering +plantains—-hundreds of square miles of pastoral upland dotted thickly +with villages and groves of banana. From my lofty eyrie I can see herds +upon herds of cattle, and many minute specks, white and black, which can +be nothing but flocks of sheep and goats. I can also see pale blue +columns of ascending smoke from the fires, and upright thin figures +moving about. Secure on my lofty throne, I can view their movements and +laugh at the ferocity of the savage hearts which beat in those thin dark +figures; for I am a part of Nature now, and for the present as +invulnerable as itself. As little do they know that human eyes survey +their forms from the summit of this lake-girt isle as that the eyes of +the Supreme in heaven are upon them. How long, I wonder, shall the +people of these lands remain thus ignorant of Him who created the +gorgeous sunlit world they look upon each day from their lofty upland! +How long shall their untamed ferocity be a barrier to the Gospel, and +how long shall they remain unvisited by the Teacher! + + ---------------------------------------------------------------- + + [_To face page 174._ + +[Illustration: RECEPTION AT BUMBIREH ISLAND, VICTORIA NYANZA.] + + ---------------------------------------------------------------- + +What a land they possess! and what an inland sea! How steamers afloat on +the lake might cause Ururi to shake hands with Uzongora, and Uganda with +Usukuma, make the wild Wavuma friends with the Wazinza, and unite the +Wakerewé with the Wagana! A great trading port might then spring up on +the Shimeeyu, whence the coffee of Uzongora, the ivory, sheep, and goats +of Ugeyeya, Usoga, Uvuma, and Uganda, the cattle of Uwya, Karagwé, +Usagara, Ihangiro, and Usukuma, the myrrh, cassia, and furs and hides of +Uganda and Uddu, the rice of Ukerewé, and the grain of Uzinza, might be +exchanged for the fabrics brought from the coast; all the land be +redeemed from wildness, the industry and energy of the natives +stimulated, the havoc of the slave-trade stopped, and all the countries +round about permeated with the nobler ethics of a higher humanity. But +at present the hands of the people are lifted—murder in their hearts—one +against the other; ferocity is kindled at sight of the wayfarer; piracy +is the acknowledged profession of the Wavuma; the people of Ugeyeya and +Wasoga go stark naked; Mtesa impales, burns, and maims his victims; the +Wirigedi lie in wait along their shores for the stranger, and the +slingers of the islands practise their art against him; the Wakara +poison anew their deadly arrows at sight of a canoe; and each tribe, +with rage and hate in its heart, remains aloof from the other. “Verily, +the dark places of the earth are full of the habitations of cruelty.” + +Oh for the hour when a band of philanthropic capitalists shall vow to +rescue these beautiful lands, and supply the means to enable the Gospel +messengers to come and quench the murderous hate with which man beholds +man in the beautiful lands around Lake Victoria! + +I descended from the lofty height, the summit of Musira Island, by +another way, which disclosed to me the character of the rocky island, +and exposed to my view the precipitous walls of shale, rifted and +indented by ages of atmospheric influences, that surround the island +upon all sides but the western. After great difficulty I succeeded in +getting upon the top of a portion of an upper ledge that had fallen on +the north-east corner and now formed a separate projection about 30 feet +high. In a cavernous recess upon the summit of it, I discovered six +human bodies in a state of decomposition, half covered with grass and +débris of rock. One of the skulls showed the mark of a hatchet, which +made me suspect that a tragedy had occurred here but a short time +before. No doubt the horrible event took place on the island on the +ground occupied by our camp, for there was no other spot where such a +deed could have been wrought, and probably the victims were taken in +canoes, and deposited in this hidden recess, that strangers might not be +alarmed at the sight of the bodies, or of such evidence of violence as +the hatchet-cleft skull. Probably, also, these strangers were murdered +for their cargo of coffee or of butter by the natives of the mainland, +or by a later arrival of strangers like my own Waganda, who because of +their numerical superiority had begun their molestation and robbery of +the coffee traders, without other cause than that they were strong and +the traders weak. + +About 5 P.M., having long before returned to camp, I saw on the horizon +Magassa’s fleet of canoes, and counted fourteen. I despatched Safeni and +some of the Waganda in a canoe to the small islands we passed just +before reaching Makongo, begging Magassa to hasten and join me early +next morning, as we were short of provisions, and starvation would ensue +if we were delayed in our voyage. Safeni returned about 9 P.M. with a +request from Magassa that I would go on as early as I wished, and a +promise that he would follow me to camp. + +_April 26._—I waited, however, for Magassa until 10 A.M., and as Alice +Island—which Sentum and Sentageya advised me was the best place to touch +at in order to make a short course for Usukuma—was about thirty miles +from Musira, I could delay no longer. It was then agreed that Sentum +should stay at Musira Island until Magassa arrived, and inform him of +the direction which Sentageya and I had taken. + +We had proceeded on our voyage but three miles when Sentageya turned +back with all speed towards Musira, waving his hand to me to continue my +journey. Imagining that he had merely forgotten something, I did as he +directed. + +We reached Alice Island about 9 P.M., for we had been delayed by a +strong head wind since 4 P.M. As it was pitch-dark, we were guided to a +camping-place by a flickering light which we saw on the shore. The light +for which we steered was that of a fire kindled by two men and a boy, +who were drying fish in a cavern the entrance of which opened on the +lake. Though the fishermen were rather frightened at first, they were +discreet enough to remain passive; and to calm their fears, I assumed an +air of extreme blandness and amiability. It being late, I prepared to +rest in the stern-sheets of my boat, but as I was about to lie down, I +heard the natives expostulating. I knew by this that the boat’s crew +must be committing depredations on their fish stores; so I sprang out— +and only just in time to save them a serious loss. Murabo had already +made himself master of half-a-dozen large fish, when I came up with +naked feet behind him, announcing my arrival by a staggering blow, which +convinced the fishermen better than any amount of blandness and +affectation of amiability could have done, that I was sincere, and +convinced the Wangwana also that injustice would not be permitted. The +fishermen received a handful of beads as an atonement for the attempted +spoliation, and to secure the Wangwana against further temptation, I +gave them double rations. + +_April 27._—The next morning, when I woke, I found that we were camped +under the shadow of a basaltic cliff, about 50 feet high, at the base of +which was the fishermen’s cavern, extending about 15 feet within. The +island was lofty, about 400 feet above the lake at its highest part, +nearly four miles in length, and a mile and a half across at its +greatest breadth. The inhabitants consisted of about forty families from +Ukerewé, and owned King Lukongeh as their liege lord. + +The summit of Alice Island is clothed with an abundance of coarse grass, +and the ravines and hollows are choked with a luxuriance of vegetable +life—trees, plants, ferns, ground orchids, and wild pine-apples: along +the water’s edge there waves a thin strip of water-cane. The people +became fast friends with us, but their keen trading instincts impelled +them to demand such exorbitant prices for every article, that we were +unable to purchase more than a few ears of corn. I obtained a view from +the summit with my field-glass, but I could distinguish nothing east or +south-east. South-west we saw the Bumbireh group, and to purchase food +we were compelled to proceed thither—disagreeably convinced that we had +lost a whole day by calling at Alice Island, whereas, had we kept a +direct course to the south, we might have reached the Bumbireh group in +a few hours. + +_April 28._—As we started only at noon from Alice Island, being delayed +by expectations of seeing Magassa, and also by the necessity for +purchasing something even at high prices to prevent starvation, we did +not reach Barker’s Island—the easternmost of the Bumbireh group—until +night, which we passed most miserably in a little cove surrounded by +impenetrable brushwood. It was one downpour of rain throughout the whole +night, which compelled us to sit up shivering and supperless, for, to +crown our discomforts, we had absolutely nothing to eat. No more abject +objects can be imagined than the human beings that occupied the boat +through the hours of darkness. There were my crew all sitting as closely +as possible, back to back or side by side, on the oars and boards which +they had arranged like a platform on the thwarts, and I sitting alone +under the awning in the stern sheets, wearily trying to outline their +figures, or vaguely taking mental notes of the irregularities of the +bush, with occasional hasty glances at the gloomy sky, or at Bumbireh, +whose black mass looked grim and lofty in the dark, and all the time the +rain kept pouring down with a steady malignant impetuosity. I doubt if +even the happiest hours which may fall to my lot in the future will ever +obliterate from my memory that dismal night of discomfort and hunger. + +But as it generally happens, the dismal night was followed by a +beautiful, bright morning. Every inch of nature that we could scan +seemed revivified, refreshed, and gay, except the little world which the +boat contained. We were eager to renew our acquaintance with humanity, +for only by contact with others could we live. We accordingly sailed for +Bumbireh, which lay about two miles from Barker’s Island, and ran down +the coast in search of a cove and haven for our boat, while we should be +bartering our beads for edibles. + +Bumbireh Island is about eleven miles in extreme length by two miles +greatest breadth. It is in appearance a hilly range, with a tolerably +even and softly rolling summit line clothed with short grass. Its slopes +are generally steep, yet grassy or cultivated. It contains probably +fifty small villages, averaging about twenty huts to a village, and if +we calculate four souls to each hut, we have a population of about 4000 +including all ages. + +Herds of cattle grazed on the summit and slopes; a tolerably large +acreage here and there showed a brown soil upturned for planting, while +extensive banana groves marked most of the village sites. There was a +kindly and prosperous aspect about the island. + +As soon as we had sailed a little distance along the coast, we caught +sight of a few figures which broke the even and smooth outline of the +grassy summit, and heard the well-known melodious war-cries employed +by most of the Central African tribes, “Hehu-a-hehu-u-u-u!” loud, +long-drawn, and ringing. + +The figures increased in number, and fresh voices joined in the defiant +and alarming note. Still, hungry wretches as we were, environed by +difficulties of all kinds, just beginning to feel warm after the cold +and wet of the night before, with famine gnawing at our vitals, leagues +upon leagues of sea between us and our friends at Usukuma, and nothing +eatable in our boat, we were obliged to risk something, reminding +ourselves “that there are no circumstances so desperate which Providence +may not relieve.” + +At 9 A.M. we discovered a cove near the south-east end of the long +island, and pulled slowly into it. Immediately the natives rushed down +the slopes, shouting war-cries and uttering fierce ejaculations. When +about 50 yards from the shore, I bade the men cease rowing, but Safeni +and Baraka became eloquent, and said, “It is almost always the case, +master, with savages. They cry out, and threaten, and look big, but you +will see that all that noise will cease as soon as they hear us speak. +Besides, if we leave here without food, where shall we obtain it?” + +The last argument was unanswerable, and though I gave no orders to +resume their oars, four of the men impelled the boat on slowly, while +Safeni and Baraka prepared themselves to explain to the natives, who +were now close within hearing, as they came rushing to the water’s edge. +I saw some lift great stones, while others prepared their bows. + +We were now about 10 yards from the beach, and Safeni and Baraka spoke, +earnestly pointing to their mouths, and by gestures explaining that +their bellies were empty. They smiled with insinuating faces; uttered +the words “brothers,” “friends,” “good fellows,” most volubly; cunningly +interpolated the words Mtesa—the _Kabaka_—Uganda, and Antari king of +Ihangiro, to whom Bumbireh belongs. Safeni and Baraka’s pleasant +volubility seemed to have produced a good effect, for the stones were +dropped, the bows were unstrung, and the lifted spears lowered to assist +the steady, slow-walking pace with which they now advanced. + +Tafeni and Baraka turned to me triumphantly and asked, “What did we say, +master?” and then, with engaging frankness, invited the natives, who +were now about two hundred in number, to come closer. The natives +consulted a little while, and several—now smiling pleasantly themselves— +advanced leisurely into the water until they touched the boat’s prow. +They stood a few seconds talking sweetly, when suddenly with a rush they +ran the boat ashore, and then all the others, seizing hawser and +gunwale, dragged her about 20 yards over the rocky beach high and dry, +leaving us almost stupefied with astonishment! + +Then ensued a scene which beggars description. Pandemonium—all its +devils armed—raged around us. A forest of spears was levelled; thirty or +forty bows were drawn taut; as many barbed arrows seemed already on the +wing; thick, knotty clubs waved above our heads; two hundred screaming +black demons jostled with each other and struggled for room to vent +their fury, or for an opportunity to deliver one crushing blow or thrust +at us. + +In the meantime, as soon as the first symptoms of this manifestation of +violence had been observed, I had sprung to my feet, each hand armed +with a loaded self-cocking revolver, to kill and be killed. But the +apparent hopelessness of inflicting much injury upon such a large crowd +restrained me, and Safeni turned to me, though almost cowed to dumbness +by the loud fury around us, and pleaded with me to be patient. I +complied, seeing that I should get no aid from my crew; but, while +bitterly blaming myself for my imprudence in having yielded—against my +instincts—to placing myself in the power of such savages, I vowed that, +if I escaped this once, my own judgment should guide my actions for the +future. + +I assumed a resigned air, though I still retained my revolvers. My crew +also bore the first outburst of the tempest of shrieking rage which +assailed them with almost sublime imperturbability. Safeni crossed his +arms with the meekness of a saint. Baraka held his hands palms outward, +asking with serene benignity, “What, my friends, ails you? Do you fear +empty hands and smiling people like us? We are friends, we came as +friends to buy food, two or three bananas, a few mouthfuls of grain, or +potatoes, or muhogo (cassava), and, if you permit us, we shall depart as +friends.” + +Our demeanour had a great effect. The riot and noise seemed to be +subsiding, when some fifty new-comers rekindled the smouldering fury. +Again the forest of spears swayed on the launch, again the knotty clubs +were whirled aloft, again the bows were drawn, and again the barbed +arrows seemed flying. Safeni received a push which sent him tumbling, +little Kirango received a blow on the head with a spear-staff, Saramba +gave a cry as a club descended on his back. + +I sprang up this time to remonstrate, with the two revolvers in my left +hand. I addressed myself to an elder, who seemed to be restraining the +people from proceeding too far. I showed him beads, cloth, wire, and +invoked the names of Mtesi, and Antari their king. + +The sight of the heaps of beads and cloth I exposed awakened, however, +the more deliberate passions of selfishness and greed in each heart. An +attempt at massacre, they began to argue, would certainly entail the +loss of some of themselves. “Guns might be seized and handled with +terrible effect even by dying men, and who knows what those little iron +things in the white man’s hands are?” they seemed to be asking +themselves. The elder, whatever he thought, responded with an +affectation of indignation, raised his stick, and to right and left of +him drove back the demoniac crowd. Other prominent men now assisted this +elder, whom we subsequently discovered to be Shekka, the king of +Bumbireh. + +Shekka then, having thus bestirred himself, beckoned to half-a-dozen +men and walked away a few yards behind the mass. It was the “shauri,” +dear to a free and independent African’s heart, that was about to be +held. Half the crowd followed the king and his council, while the other +half remained to indulge their violent, vituperative tongues on us, +and to continually menace us with either club or spear. An audacious +party came round the stern of the boat and, with superlatively hideous +gestures, affronted me; one of them even gave a tug at my hair, +thinking it was a wig. I avenged myself by seizing his hand, and +suddenly bending it back almost dislocated it, causing him to howl with +pain. His comrades swayed their lances, but I smilingly looked at them, +for all idea of self-preservation had now almost fled. + +The issue had surely arrived. There had been just one brief moment of +agony when I reflected how unlovely death appears in such guise as that +in which it then threatened me. What would my people think as they +anxiously waited for the never returning master! What would Pocock and +Barker say when they heard of the tragedy of Bumbireh! And my friends in +America and Europe! “Tut, it is only a brief moment of pain, and then +what can the ferocious dogs do more? It is a consolation that, if +anything, it will be short, sharp, sudden—a gasp, and then a silence—for +ever and ever!” And after that I was ready for the fight and for death. + +“Now, my black friends, do your worst; anything you choose; I am ready.” + +A messenger from the king and the council arrives, and beckons Safeni. I +said to him, “Safeni, use your wit.” “Please God, master,” he replied. + +Safeni drew nearly all the crowd after him, for curiosity is strong in +the African. I saw him pose himself. A born diplomatist was Safeni. His +hands moved up and down, outward and inward; a cordial frankness sat +naturally on his face; his gestures were graceful; the man was an +orator, pleading for mercy and justice. + +Safeni returned, his face radiant. “It is all right, master, there is no +fear. They say we must stop here until to-morrow.” + +“Will they sell us food?” + +“Oh, yes, as soon as they settle their shauri.” + +While Safeni was speaking, six men rushed up and seized the oars. + +Safeni, though hitherto politic, lost temper at this, and endeavoured to +prevent them. They raised their clubs to strike him. I shouted, “Let +them go, Safeni.” + +A loud cheer greeted the seizure of the oars. I became convinced now +that this one little act would lead to others; for man is the same all +over the world. Set a beggar on horseback, and he will ride to the +devil; give a slave an inch, and he will take an ell; if a man submit +once, he must be prepared to submit again. + +The “shauri” proceeded. Another messenger came, demanding five cloths +and five fundo of necklaces. They were delivered. But as it was now near +noon, and they were assured we could not escape, the savages withdrew to +their nearest village to refresh themselves with wine and food. + +After the warriors had departed, some women came to look at us. We spoke +kindly to them, and in return they gave us the consoling assurance that +we should be killed; but they said that if we could induce Shekka to +make blood-brotherhood, or to eat honey with one of us, we should be +safe. If we failed, there was only flight or death. We thanked them, but +we would wait. + +About 3 P.M. we heard a number of drums beaten. Safeni was told that if +the natives collected again he must endeavour to induce Shekka with +gifts to go through the process of blood-brotherhood. + +A long line of natives in full war costume appeared on the crest of the +terrace, on which the banana grove and village of Kajurri stood. Their +faces were smeared with black and white pigments. Almost all of them +bore the peculiar shields of Usongora. Their actions were such as the +dullest-witted of us recognised as indicating hostilities. + +Even Safeni and Baraka were astounded, and their first words were, +“Prepare, master. Truly, this is trouble.” + +“Never mind me,” I replied, “I have been ready these three hours. Are +you ready, your guns and revolvers loaded, and your ears open this +time?” + +“We are,” they all firmly answered. + +“Don’t be afraid; be quite cool. We will try, while they are collecting +together, the woman’s suggestion. Go frankly and smilingly, Safeni, up +to Shekka, on the top of that hill, and offer him these three fundo of +beads, and ask him to exchange blood with you.” + +Safeni proceeded readily on his errand, for there was no danger to him +bodily while we were there within 150 yards, and their full power as yet +unprepared. For ten minutes he conversed with them, while the drums kept +beating, and numbers of men bepainted for war were increasing Shekka’s +force. Some of them entertained us by demonstrating with their spears +how they fought; others whirled their clubs like tipsy Irishmen at +Donnybrook fair. Their gestures were wild, their voices were shrill and +fierce, they were kindling themselves into a fighting fever. + +Safeni returned. Shekka had refused the pledge of peace. The natives now +mustered over 300. + +Presently fifty bold fellows came rushing down, uttering a shrill cry. +Without hesitation they came straight to the boat, and, hissing +something to us, seized our Kiganda drum. It was such a small affair we +did not resist; still the manner in which it was taken completely +undeceived us, if any small hope of peace remained. Loud applause +greeted the act of gallantry. + +Then two men came towards us, and began to drive some cows away that +were grazing between us and the men on the hill. Safeni asked one of +them, “Why do you do that?” + +“Because we are going to begin fighting presently, and if you are men, +you may begin to prepare yourselves,” he said scornfully. + +“Thanks, my bold friend,” I muttered to myself. “Those are the truest +words we have heard to-day.” + +The two men were retiring up the hill. “Here Safeni,” I said, “take +these two fine red cloths in your hand; walk slowly up after them a +little way, and the minute you hear my voice run back; and you, my boys, +this is for life and death, mind; range yourselves on each side of the +boat, lay your hands on it carelessly, but with a firm grip, and when I +give the word, push it with the force of a hundred men down the hill +into the water. Are you all ready, and do you think you can do it? +Otherwise we might as well begin fighting where we are.” + +“Yes, Inshallah Master,” they cried out with one voice. + +“Go, Safeni!” + +I waited until he had walked fifty yards away, and saw that he acted +precisely as I had instructed him. + +“Push, my boys; push for your lives!” + +The crew bent their heads and strained their arms; the boat began to +move, and there was a hissing, grinding noise below me. I seized my +double-barrelled elephant rifle and shouted, “Safeni! Safeni, return!” + +The natives were quick-eyed. They saw the boat moving, and with one +accord they swept down the hill uttering the most fearful cries. + +My boat was at the water’s edge. “Shoot her into the lake, my men; never +mind the water”; and clear of all obstructions she darted out upon the +lake. + +Safeni stood for an instant on the water’s edge, with the cloths in his +hand. The foremost of a crowd of natives was about twenty yards from +him. He raised his spear and balanced himself. + +“Spring into the water, man, head first,” I cried. + +The balanced spear was about to fly, and another man was preparing his +weapon for a deadly cast, when I raised my gun and the bullet ploughed +through him and through the second. The bowmen halted and drew their +bows. I sent two charges of duck-shot into their midst with terrible +effect. The natives retreated from the beach on which the boat had +lately lain. + +Having checked the natives, I assisted one of my men into the boat, and +ordered him to lend a hand to the others, while I reloaded my big guns, +keeping my eyes on the natives. There was a point about 100 yards in +length on the east, which sheltered the cove. Some of the natives made a +rush for this, but my guns commanded the exposed position, and they were +obliged to retire. + +The crew seized their rifles, but I told them to leave them alone, and +to tear the bottom-boards out of the boat and use them as paddles; for +there were two hippopotami advancing upon us open-mouthed, and it seemed +as if we were to be crushed in the water after such a narrow escape from +the ferocious people ashore. I permitted one of the hippos to approach +within ten yards, and, aiming between his eyes, perforated his skull +with a three-ounce ball, and the second received such a wound that we +were not molested by him. + +Meanwhile the savages, baffled and furious at seeing their prey escape, +had rushed, after a short consultation, to man two canoes that were +drawn up on the beach at the north-west corner of the cove. Twice I +dropped men as they endeavoured to launch the boats; but they persisted, +and finally, launching them, pursued us vigorously. Two other canoes +were seen coming down the coast from the eastern side of the island. + +Unable to escape, we stopped after we had got out of the cove, and +waited for them. + +My elephant rifle was loaded with explosive balls for this occasion. +Four shots killed five men and sank two of the canoes. The two others +retired to assist their friends out of the water. They attempted nothing +further, but some of those on shore had managed to reach the point, and +as we resumed our paddles, we heard a voice cry out, “Go and die in the +Nyanza!” and saw them shoot their arrows, which fell harmlessly a few +yards behind us. We were saved! + +It was 5 P.M. We had only four bananas in the boat, and we were twelve +hungry men. If we had a strong fair breeze, a day and a night would +suffice to enable us to reach our camp. But if we had head-winds, the +journey might occupy a month. Meanwhile, after the experience of +Makongo, Alice Island, and Bumbireh, where should we apply for food? +Fresh water we had in abundance, sufficient to satisfy the thirst of all +the armies of the world for a century. But food? Whither should we turn +for it? + +A gentle breeze came from the island. We raised the lug sail, hoping +that it would continue fair for a south-east course. But at 7 P.M. it +fell a dead calm. We resumed our extemporized paddles—those thin weak +bottom-boards. Our progress was about three-quarters of a mile per hour. + +Throughout the night we laboured, cheering one another. In the morning +not a speck of land was visible: all was a boundless circle of grey +water. + +_April 29._—About 9 A.M. a squall came fair and drove us about eight +miles to the south; about 10.30 it became calm again, but still we +paddled unceasingly. At night we found ourselves about seven miles away +from an island to the southward of us, and we made noble efforts to +reach it. But a gale came up from the south-west, against which it was +useless to contend. The crew were fatigued and weakened after paddling +forty-nine hours without food. + +We resigned ourselves to the waves and the rain that was falling in +sheets, and the driving tempest. Up and down we rose and sank on the +great waves, battered from side to side, swung round, plunged in dark +hollows, and bathed in spray. We baled the boat out, and again sat down. +At midnight the gale moderated and the moon rose, throwing a weird light +upon the face of the lake and its long heaving billows, which still +showed high crests whitened with foam. Up and down we rose and plunged. +The moon now shone clear upon the boat and her wretched crew, ghastlily +lighting up the crouching, wearied, despairing forms, from which there +sometimes rose deep sighs that wrung my heart. “Cheer up, my lads, think +nothing of the curse of those of Bumbireh; bad men’s curses sometimes +turn out blessings,” I said, to encourage them. One of the thwarts was +chopped up, and we made a fire, and with some of the coffee which I had +obtained from Colonel Linant at Mtesa’s we felt somewhat refreshed. And +then, completely wearied out, they all slept, but I watched, busy with +my thoughts. + +_April 30._—The morning came, the morning of the 30th of April, and +though my men had only eaten four bananas between them and tasted, +besides, a cup of coffee since 10 A.M. of the 27th, they nevertheless, +sixty-eight hours afterwards, when I urged them to resume their paddles +that we might reach an island twelve miles south of us, rallied to my +appeal with a manliness which won my admiration, responding with heroic +will but, alas! with little strength. + +At 2 P.M.—seventy-six hours after leaving Alice Island—we approached a +cove in an uninhabited island, which I have distinguished on the chart +by the name of “Refuge.” We crawled out of the boat, and each of us +thanked God for even this little mercy and lay down on the glowing sand +to rest. + +But food must be obtained before night. Baraka and Safeni were sent to +explore the interior in one direction, Murabo and Marzouk in another. +Robert and Hamoidah were set to kindle a fire, and I took my shot-gun to +shoot birds. Within half an hour I had obtained a brace of large fat +ducks; Baraka and Safeni returned each with two bunches of young green +bananas, and Murabo and his comrade had discovered some luscious berries +like cherries. + +And what glad souls were we that evening around our camp fire with +this gracious abundance to which a benignant Providence had led us, +storm-tossed, bruised, and hungry creatures that we were but a few +hours before! Bananas, ducks, berries, and coffee! The tobacco gourd +and pipe closed one of the most delicious evenings I ever remember to +have passed. No wonder that before retiring, feeling ourselves indebted +to the Supreme Being, who had preserved us through so many troubles, we +thanked Him for His mercies and His bounties. + +_May 2._—We rested another day on Refuge Island to make oars; and +further explorations enabled us to procure half-a-dozen more bunches of +bananas. Our appetites were so keen that there was but little left next +morning by the time we were ready to start afresh. With oar and sail we +set out for Singo Island. Perceiving it was uninhabited, we steered for +Ito Island, the slopes of which were rich with plantains, but the +natives slung stones at us, and we were therefore obliged to continue on +our way to the Kuneneh group, near the peninsula of Ukerewé. + +_May 4._—On the afternoon of the 4th of May, a stormy head-wind rising, +we were compelled to turn into the cove of Wiru, where, through the +influence of Saramba the guide, who was at home in this country, we were +hospitably received, and meat, potatoes, milk, honey, bananas both ripe +and green, eggs and poultry, were freely sold to us. We cooked these +delicacies on board, and ate them with such relish and appetite as only +half-starved men can appreciate. + +_May 5._—Hoping to reach our camp next morning, we set sail at 9 P.M., +steering across Speke Gulf. But about 3 A.M., when we were nearly in +mid-gulf, the fickle wind failed us, and then, as if resolved we should +taste to the uttermost the extreme of suffering, it met us with a +tempest from the N.N.E., as fearful in other respects as that which we +experienced at Usuguru, but with the fresh torments added of hailstones +as large as filberts. The sky was robed in inky blackness, not a star +was visible, vivid lightnings flashed accompanied by loud thunder +crashes, and furious waves tossed us about as though we were imprisoned +in a gourd, the elements thus combining to multiply the terrors of our +situation. Again we resigned the boat to wind and wave, as all our +efforts to keep our course were unavailing. + +We began to think that the curse of the people of Bumbireh, “Go and die +in the Nyanza,” might be realized after all—though I had much faith in +the staunch craft which Messenger of Teddington so conscientiously +constructed. + +_May 6._—A grey, cheerless morning dawned at last, and we discovered +ourselves to be ten miles north of Rwoma, and about twenty miles +north-west of Kagehyi. We put forth our best efforts, hoisted sail, and +though the wind was but little in our favour at first, it soon veered +round, and sent us sailing merrily over the tall waves, and along the +coast of Usukuma, straight towards camp. + +Shouts of welcome greeted us from shore, for the people had recognized +us by our sail when miles away, and as we drew nearer the shouts +changed to volleys of musketry, and the waving of flags, and the land +seemed alive with leaping forms of the glad-hearted men. For we had +been fifty-seven days away from our people, and many a false rumour had +reached them of our deaths, strengthened each day that our return was +deferred and our absence grew longer. But the sight of the exploring +boat sailing towards Kagehyi dissipated all alarm, concern, and fear. + +As the keel grounded, fifty men bounded into the water, dragged me from +the boat, and danced me round the camp on their shoulders, amid much +laughter, and clapping of hands, grotesque wriggling of forms, and real +Saxon hurrahing. + +Frank Pocock was there, his face lit up by fulness of joy, but when I +asked him where Frederick Barker was, and why he did not come to welcome +me, Frank’s face clouded with the sudden recollection of our loss, as he +answered, “Because he died twelve days ago, Sir, and he lies there,” +pointing gravely to a low mound of earth by the lake! + +[Illustration: + + CAIRN ERECTED TO THE MEMORY OF FREDERICK BARKER: + MAJITA, AND URIRWI MOUNTAINS IN THE DISTANCE, ACROSS SPEKE GULF. + + (_From a photograph by the Author._)] +] + +----- + +# 14: + + Owing to the events which are recorded in this chapter I was unable to + return to Mtesa’s capital within the time specified to M. Linant, but + it is evident that my friend waited nearly six weeks for me. He + sustained a fierce attack for fourteen hours from several thousand + Wanyoro _en route_ to Ismailia, but finally succeeded in making his + escape, and reaching Colonel Gordon’s headquarters in safety. On the + 26th August, however, being on another mission, he was attacked by the + Baris near a place called Labore, and he and his party of thirty-six + soldiers were massacred. This sad event occurred four days after I + returned on my second visit to the Ripon Falls. + + + + + CHAPTER XI. + +Barker’s illness and death—Other deaths—Traitors in the camp—Rest!— + Sickness—Rwoma blocks our passage by land—Magassa fails us by water—A + serious dilemma—Lukongeh comes to the rescue—History of Ukerewé— + Educated amphibians—Leaving Kagehyi with half the Expedition—The + foundering canoes—All saved—Ito conciliates us—Arrival at Refuge + Island with half the Expedition—I return for the rest—A murderous + outbreak in camp—Final departure from Kagehyi—All encamped on Refuge + Island—We ally ourselves with Komeh—A dance of kings—Mahyiga Island + (in the Bumbireh group)—Interviewed by Iroba canoes—Our friendship + scorned—The king of Bumbireh a hostage—The massacre of the Kytawa + chief and his crew—The punishment of the murderers—Its salutary effect + upon their neighbours—We arrive in Uganda. + + +_May 6._—When the hysterical congratulations of the Expedition had +somewhat slackened, Prince Kaduma and the friends of Saramba, the guide +(who was now quite a hero), and Frank accompanied me to my hut—the dogs +Jack and Bull following—to give me a brief narrative of the events that +had transpired. + +Fred Barker, according to Frank, had good health till the middle of +April; after which he began to experience aguish fits. On the 22nd he +had enjoyed a hippopotamus hunt on the shore between Kagehyi and Lutari, +and on the morning of the 23rd had bathed in the lake and eaten a hearty +early breakfast. At 9 A.M., however, he complained of feeling ill, and +lay down. Almost immediately a cold fit seized him, and his blood seemed +to stagnate in its veins. Frank and Barker’s servants employed their +utmost art to increase the warmth of his body. They administered brandy +and hot tea, put heated stones to his feet, and piled blanket after +blanket upon him, but the congealed blood would not run, and at 11 A.M. +the poor young man was dead. + +“At 3 P.M. we buried him,” said Frank, “close to the Nyanza. Poor +fellow! many and many a time he said during the last few days, ‘I wish +the master would come back. I should then feel as if there were some +chance of life for me, but I shall die stagnating and rotting here if he +does not come.’ I think, Sir, he would have pulled through had you been +here.” + +I missed young Barker very much. He had begun to endear himself to me by +his bright intelligence and valuable services. When ill, my least wish +was immediately gratified: he understood the least motion or sign. He +was also a good writer, and he kept the accounts of the various stores, +cloths, and beads. He was an admirable companion to Frank, and the two +young men were good company for me; they had also won the hearts of the +Wangwana by their gentle, amiable conduct. An oath or a profane word I +seldom heard from either of them; and when angry, their anger at the +stupidity or insolence of the people was of the passive kind; they never +resorted to violence without appealing to me. + +But Frank had other bad news to tell. Mabruki Speke, whom Burton +called the bull-headed—the faithful servant of Burton and Speke, Speke +and Grant, of myself on the first expedition, of Livingstone on his +last journey, and one of the most trusted men of my present following +from Zanzibar to Lake Victoria—was dead. Jabiri (one of the stout +boat-bearers) was dead, and so was old Akida, besides three others. +All had died of dysentery. Msenna the “bully of Zanzibar” had broken +out once more, after nearly six months of good behaviour. I arrived at +Kagehyi on the 5th of May from the exploration of the lake; on the 6th +he was to have led a body of sixty men to Unyanyembé, if the master did +not return! + +Kipingiri, chief of Lutari, and brother of Kaduma, chief of Kagehyi, had +formed a conspiracy with Kurrereh, chief of Kyenzi, and the chief of +Igusa, to unite their forces to attack and plunder the camp. But the +Wangwana chiefs, Manwa Sera and Kachéché, had discovered the plot, and +Frank and Fred Barker, after sounding Kaduma, had distributed +ammunition, with every intention of employing their best abilities to +resist the attack. Prince Kaduma’s loyalty to his absent friend, and +Frank and Fred’s bold conduct, with the sudden death of the chief of +Igusa, had caused Kipingiri to abandon the wicked conspiracy. + +Frank informed me also that he had suffered one or two slight attacks of +fever, but that he had “easily shaken them off.” The Wangwana were +wonderfully recovered from the miserable attenuation which the scant +fare of Ugogo and Urimi had wrought in their frames, and some were so +robust and fat that I scarcely knew them. Upon examining the stock of +goods left in the store-room, I was gratified to discover that Frank had +been extremely economical. I found him in perfect accord with Prince +Kaduma, good friends with Sungoro, and respected by the Wangwana; and on +inspecting his work, there was nothing in his conduct that did not +deserve hearty approval and commendation. + +_May 7._—Our return to Kagehyi was followed by Sabbath repose and +rest, fairly earned and much needed. When I placed myself under the +spring-balance scales, I found I weighed only 115 lbs., just 63 lbs. +less than when leaving Zanzibar. Frank Pocock weighed 162 lbs.! I saved +this excessive reduction of flesh to scant fare and days of hunger, not +to sickness. + +Sweet were those first days of rest! Frank was eager to hear all that +had befallen us, in our 1000 miles’ sail round the lake, and the +Wangwana formed circles many deep, to hear the Iliad of our woes. What +hearty sympathisers these poor, black, untutored men were! Kaduma was +all amazement, and Sungoro never ceased to express his wonder as to how +we managed to go round the lake in the “little boat.” The Wasukuma +extemporized songs in her honour, which they sang in the evenings; and +the naked urchins made miniature boats out of the stem of the banana, +with twigs as masts and leaves for sails. The influence of one example +had, it seemed to me, already produced fruit here, and the efforts of +the little ones proved to me that the natives needed but one or two more +such examples to stimulate them to similar enterprises. Future explorers +will find many ready to imitate bold Saramba’s conduct as guides, and +the Wasukuma may become in future as docile boatmen as they are capable +porters and steady travellers on land. + +Then came sickness. The African fever having found my frame weakened +from privations attacked me vigorously one day after another. Three +fevers reduced me 7 lbs. in weight. But I quininized myself thoroughly +from dawn of day to set of sun, and on the fifth day stepped out, +sallow, pale, weak, and trembling, it is true, with jaundiced eyes, +palpitating heart, and ringing ears—but the fever had been conquered. + +Where was Magassa with his canoes? Day after day we hoped and wished he +would appear, but his canoes were never sighted on the horizon, and we +finally abandoned all hope of seeing him, or of being able to reach +Uganda by water. We prepared therefore to march overland by way of Mweré +through King Rwoma’s country. We made no secret of it. Kaduma was +informed, and he communicated it to every one, and it soon came to +Rwoma’s ears. + +But King Rwoma, being an ally of Mirambo, entertained a strong objection +to Wangwana, and he had exaggerated ideas of the appearance of the white +men who were at Kagehyi. Some silly child of nature had told him there +was a white man at Kagehyi with “long red hair, and great red eyes”—it +was probably Frank, though a libellous caricature of him certainly—and +the report induced Rwoma to send an embassy to Kagehyi. He said, “Rwoma +sends salaams to the white man. He does not want the white man’s cloth, +beads, or wire, and the white man must not pass through his country; +Rwoma does not want to see him or any other white man with long red hair +down to his shoulders, white face, and big red eyes; Rwoma is not afraid +of him, but if the white man comes near his country, Rwoma and Mirambo +will fight him.” To this bold but frank challenge the Wasukuma added +other reasons to prove that the overland route was impassable. The road +between Muanza and Mweré was closed by factious tribes. Rwoma was an +ally of Mirambo; Kijaju, his neighbour, was an ally of the predatory +Watuta; the chief of Nchoza, hard by him, was at war with the Watuta; +Antari, king of Ihangiro and Bumbireh, would naturally resent our +approach; Mankorongo, successor of Swarora of Usui, could only be +appeased with such tribute as would be absolutely ruinous. If I +proceeded south to Unyanyembé the Wangwana could never be held together, +and the Expedition would dissolve like snow. + +By water, what was the outlook? Magassa and his fleet were not to be +heard of. He had probably returned from Musira Island, afraid to risk +his canoes in the great waste of waters between Musira Island and Alice +Island, for Waganda canoes made of plank and sewn together with fibre of +cane sometimes founder in bad weather, and the lake in the rainy season +is dangerous to such. The Wasukuma possessed no canoes, and I but one +boat capable of carrying fifteen men in rough weather. Yet my duty urged +me to proceed to Uganda. Lake Albert must be visited, for I had given my +word of honour that I would attempt it. Yet the land route was +impassable, and to all appearance so also was the lake route! + +While explaining my difficulties to Sungoro, he informed me, after +responding to various other questions, that Lukongeh, king of Ukerewé, +possessed numerous canoes, but he doubted if he would lend them to me. +“However,” said he, “he is an agreeable man, and a good friend if he +takes a fancy to one.” I thought of Lukongeh, but another attack of +fever cut short my deliberations. My system was much injured by exposure +and privations, and in my delirium I fancied myself pleading with the +king, and throughout each day’s sick vagaries, “Lukongeh, Lukongeh,” +nothing but Lukongeh, flitted through my brain. + +_May 15._—On the 15th of May I was convalescent, and arranged that +Prince Kaduma, Sungoro’s carpenter, and Frank Pocock should proceed +together to Lukongeh, bearing ten fine cloths, ten fundo of beads, and +five fathom of brass wire, to open negotiations either for the sale or +hire of canoes. + +_May 28._—On the 28th, Frank and his party returned with fifty canoes +and their crews, under the command of two chiefs and the “premier” of +Ukerewé. I gripped Frank’s hand with ardour, but was dismayed when I was +told that these canoes were to convey the Expedition to Ukerewé! This +was by no means a desirable thing, for its progress might be delayed for +months by caprice, or by any future ill will arising from a too intimate +acquaintance between the Wangwana and the natives. I refused, and told +the chiefs they could accompany me back to Ukerewé, as I would see +Lukongeh myself. + +_May 29._—Accordingly, on the 29th, after providing myself with presents +such as might win any African’s goodwill—fine rugs, blankets, crimson +cloth, and striped cloths of Kutch and Muscat, besides beads of a rare +quality, and other things too numerous to mention, equal to about 800 +dollars’ worth—I started for Msossi, Lukongeh’s capital on the north +side of Ukerewé. + +_May 30._—We halted a few hours at Wezi, and its curious granite rocks +were photographed by me, and in the afternoon continued our journey, +arriving at Kisorya at 4 P.M., where we camped. The next morning, about +9 A.M., we passed through Rugedzi Channel, which connects Speke Gulf +with Majita Bay. It was 6 feet wide in some places, and if left +undisturbed there was every indication from the grasses and water-plants +which grew in it that it would soon be choked, but by vigorous punting +with poles we succeeded in getting through. Some of the Wakerewé say +that Majita mountain is separated from the mainland by a similar +channel, at which I should not be surprised. We reached Msossi, and +received a hut to house ourselves in, an ox for meat, bananas for +vegetables, and milk for drink. + + ---------------------------------------------------------------- + + _To face page 194._ + +[Illustration: + + THE STRANGE GRANITE ROCKS OF WEZI ISLAND, MIDWAY BETWEEN USUKUMA AND + UKEREWÉ. + (_From a photograph by the Author._) + [This island is reported to be that on which Lieutenant Smith and Mr. + O’Neill were lately killed by the Wakerewé.] +] + + ---------------------------------------------------------------- + +_May 31._—At 9 A.M. of the 31st we advanced upon the aulic council +of Ukerewé, which, seated on some rising rocks on a plain, was quite +picturesque, with the gay figure of Lukongeh in the centre, round +which the lesser lights revolved. The king, a handsome, open-faced, +light-coloured young man of twenty-six or twenty-eight years old, +merely gazed his fill; and his chiefs Msiwa, Mosota, Mgeyeya, and +Wakoreh, followed his example, as well as the lesser chiefs, men, boys, +and women. + +From his questions I perceived that Lukongeh would be quite as much +influenced by conversations about Europe as Mtesa of Uganda, and I soon +saw in him as eligible a convert to Christianity, though the future was +too fraught with anxiety for me to attempt it. No business could be +commenced on this day. We were to eat and rest, and the next, if the +king felt in good health, we might begin the negotiations. + +On the second day Lukongeh was fortunately in excellent health and +spirits, and I felt so also, and with the greatest possible suavity I +proposed that he should either sell or lend me thirty canoes. All his +objections were met and overruled by the exhibition of my presents. But +when he saw me thus publicly expose the gorgeous cloths in broad +daylight, he trembled, and bade me cover them up quickly, saying that he +would visit me in my hut at night, and that I might rest assured he +would do his best for me. On the evening of the 4th of June, he stole +into my hut at night, in company with his faithful premier, and four +principal chiefs, and here I presented him with two fine rugs, one +Scotch plaid, two red blankets, ornaments of copper, thirty fine cloths, +fifty fundo of beads, and two coils of brass wire, besides various other +things, such as dishes, plates, tin pots, &c. His chiefs received five +cloths each and five fundo (a fundo consists of ten necklaces) of beads, +and two fathoms each of brass wire. For these munificent presents, I +should obtain my answer shortly; but in the meantime I must enjoy +myself. “Feed and get fat,” said Lukongeh, as he withdrew, happy with +his wealth. + +The Wakerewé, following the example of their king, treated us with +consideration. We had to undergo a narrow inspection, and a keen +analysis of physiognomy, that they might compare us with the Arab +Sungoro; but we had long become accustomed to this, and therefore bore +it with unconcern. + +There are representatives of many tribes in Ukerewé—such as Wataturu, +Wa-hya, Wattambara, Wasumbwa, Waruri, Wakwya and Wazinja. + +The elders, to whom are entrusted the traditions of the country, +furnished me with a list of the following kings:— + + 1. Ruhinda I. + 2. Kasessa. + 3. Kytawa. + 4. Kahana I. + 5. Gurta I. + 6. Nagu. + 7. Mehigo I. + 8. Mehigo II. + + 9. Kahana II. + 10. Gurta II. + 11. Ruhinda II. + 12. Kahana III. + 13. Iwanda. + 14. Machunda. + 15. Lukongeh, the present king. + +The founder of Ukerewé, Ruhinda I., is the king whose memory is most +revered. He brought his people in canoes from Usongora and Ihangiro, +which was known in old times by the name of U-wya. He it was who +introduced the plantain and banana plants into Ukerewé. The aborigines, +whom he conquered, were called Wa-kwya—another name for the inhabitants +of Majita Mount. A small remnant of the tribe still live on the south +coast of Ukerewé, opposite Kagehyi. + +The royal sepulchre is at Kitari. The hill on which it is situated is +seen in the photograph of the boat at the landing-place of Msossi, and +an eminent chief of Ukerewé has the charge of it to protect it +inviolate. The kings are all buried in a sitting posture. + +Lukongeh’s dominions east of Rugedzi Channel were acquired by the +forcible dispossession of Wataturu shepherds, after a fierce battle, +which lasted five days, during which many of the Wakerewé were slain by +the poisoned arrows, of the shepherds. Though they live harmoniously +together now, there is as much difference between the Wakerewé and the +Wataturu as exists between a Nubian and a Syrian Arab. The Wataturu are +light-coloured, straight, thin-nosed and thin-lipped, while the Wakerewé +are a mixture of the Ethiopic and negro type. + +The king is supposed to be endowed with supernatural power, and Lukongeh +seizes every opportunity to heighten this belief. He is believed to be +enabled to create a drought at pleasure, and to cause the land to be +drenched with rain. It is fortunate that, since his accession to power, +rain has been regular and copious in its season. The king has not been +slow to point out this immense advantage which Ukerewé has gained since +he succeeded his father; he is therefore beloved and feared. + +[Illustration: + + AT THE LANDING-PLACE OF MSOSSI: + VIEW OF KITARI HILL TO THE LEFT: MAJITA MOUNTAIN TO THE RIGHT. + + (_From a photograph by the Author._) +] + +Aware of the value of a reputation as rain-maker, he was ambitious to +add to it that of “great medicine man,” and besought me earnestly to +impart to him some of the grand secrets of Europe—such as how to +transform men into lions and leopards, to cause the rains to fall or +cease, the winds to blow, to give fruitfulness to women and virility to +men. Demands of this character are commonly made by African chiefs. When +I stated my inability to comply with his requests, he whispered to his +chiefs:— + +“He will not give me what I ask, because he is afraid he will not get +the canoes; but you will see when my men return from Uganda, he will +give me all I ask.” + +The custom of greeting the king is a most curious one, differing from +any I have observed elsewhere. His people, after advancing close to him, +clap their hands and kneel to him. If the king is pleased, he reveals +his pleasure by blowing and spitting into their hands, with which they +affect to anoint their faces and eyes. They seem to believe that the +king’s saliva is a collyrium for the eyes. + +To each other the Wakerewé kneel, clap hands, and cry, “Waché! waché!” +“Waché sug!” “Mohoro!” “Eg sura?” which, translated, signifies, +“Morning! morning!” “Good-morning!” “A good day!” “Are you well?” + +The stories current in this country about the witchcraft practised by +the people of Ukara Island proe that those islanders have been at pains +to spread abroad a good repute for themselves, that they are cunning, +and, aware that superstition is a weakness of human nature, have sought +to thrive upon it. Their power—according to the Wakerewé—over the +amphibiæ is wonderful. One Khamis, son of Hamadi, the carpenter of +Sungoro, having been a long time constructing a dhow, or sailing vessel, +for his employer, shared most thoroughly in these delusions. + +Khamis averred, with an oath, that there was a crocodile who lived in +the house of the chief of Ukara, which fed from his hands, and was as +docile and obedient to his master as a dog, and as intelligent as a man. +Lukongeh had once a pretty woman in his harem, who was coveted by the +Ukara chief, but the latter could devise no means to possess her for a +long time until he thought of his crocodile. He instantly communicated +his desire to the reptile, and bade him lie in wait in the rushes near +Msossi until the woman should approach the lake to bathe, as was her +custom daily, and then seize and convey her without injury across the +eight-mile channel to Ukara. The next day, at noon, the woman was in the +Ukara chief’s house. + +When I expressed a doubt about the veracity of the marvellous tale, +Khamis said, indignantly, “What, you doubt me? Ask Lukongeh, and he will +confirm what I have told you.” + +He then added, “Machunda, Lukongeh’s father, owned a crocodile that +stole an Arab’s wife, and carried her across the country to the king’s +house!” To Khamis, and the Wangwana who listened to him, this last was +conclusive evidence that the crocodiles of Ukara were most astonishing +creatures. + +[Illustration] + + 1 Storage for grain, Ukerewé. 5 Woman’s breasts, Ukerewé. + + 2 House, Ukerewé. 6 A warrior of Ukerewé. + + 3 Stool, Ukerewé. 7 Women with coils of brasswork, + Ukerewé. + + 4 Canoe, Ukerewé. 8 Fish-nets, Ukerewé. + +The Wakerewé also believe that, if a hawk seizes a fish belonging to the +Wakara, it is sure to die in the very act! + +Kaduma Kagehyi, according to Khamis, possessed a hippopotamus which came +to him each morning, for a long period, to be milked! + +It requires twelve goats and three hoes to purchase a wife in Ukerewé +from her parents. Sungoro, the Arab, was obliged to pay Lukongeh 350 +lbs. of assorted beads and 300 yards of good cloth before he succeeded +in obtaining one of his young sisters in marriage. If the lover is so +poor that he has neither goats nor hoes, he supplies such articles as +spears, or bows and arrows, but he cannot obtain a wife until he +furnishes a sufficient dowry to please her parents. If the parents or +older relatives are grasping, and impose hard conditions, the state of +the lover is hard indeed, as frequently after marriage demands are made +for cattle, sheep, goats, &c., a refusal of which renders the marriage +void until children have been born, when all connection with her blood +relatives ceases. + +Thieves, adulterers, and murderers are put to death by decapitation. +They may escape death, however, by becoming the slaves of the party they +have wronged. + +Coils of brass wire are much coveted by the Wakerewé, for the adornment +of their wives, who wear it in such numerous circlets round their necks +as to give them at a distance an appearance of wearing ruffs. Wristlets +of copper and brass and iron, and anklets of the same metal, besides +armlets of ivory, are the favourite decorations of the males. + +Families in mourning are distinguished by bands of plaintain leaf round +their heads, and by a sable pigment of a mixture of pulverized charcoal +and butter. The matrons who have fallen into the sere of life are +peculiar for their unnatural length of breasts, which, depending like +pouches down to the navel, are bound to their bodies by cords. The +dresses of men and women consist of half dressed ox-hides, goat-skins, +or a cincture of banana leaves, or kirtles of a coarsely made grass +cloth. + +_June 6._—On the 6th of June, Lukongeh, having issued instructions to +his chiefs how to assist me, called on me at night, accompanied by his +premier, to impart his decisions and plans. + +Said he, “My people are very timid in strange lands. They are no +travellers like the Wangwana. I am obliged therefore to act in the dark +with them, otherwise I could not help you. I am going to give you +twenty-three canoes and their paddles. They are not worth much, and if +they give you trouble, you must not blame me. I am telling my people you +are coming back to Ukerewé. Don’t deny it, and don’t talk about it, or +they will be sure to run away back here. If you are clever, they will +follow you to Usukuma. Once there, take the canoes and paddles, because +I give them to you; and here are my young nephew and cousin, who will +follow you to Uganda, and make friends with the Wazinja, as far as +Ihangiro, for you. When you reach Uganda, I wish you to make Mtesa and +myself brothers, and we will exchange gifts. You must also remember to +send my young men back from Uganda. Good-bye. I have said all.” + +I was also enjoined to send to Lukongeh by his young nephew and cousin +two suits of crimson and blue flannels, medicine for rheumatism and +headache, one revolver and ammunition, one bale of cloth, beads of +various kinds to the amount of 50 lbs., two fezes, one English rug, one +Kiganda canoe, capable of carrying forty men, two tusks of ivory, Usoga +goat-skins, otter furs, and iron and brass wire—all of which of course I +promised most faithfully to send. + +_June 7._—Lukongeh and his chiefs were out early on the morning of the +7th of June to bid me farewell. But there were only five small canoes +ready! “How is this, Lukongeh?” I asked. “Never mind, go on; and +remember what I have said to you, my brother. Lukongeh is true,” he +replied, with dignity. + +“Wonderful man,” I thought, “to have a respect for truth in this +country. He is assuredly one of the first. However, we shall see.” + +We punted our boat through the narrow Rugedzi Channel, and rowed to +Kisorya. Lukongeh’s premier, his nephew and cousin, who were to be our +guides, were with us. + +_June 11._—From the hills of Kisorya I obtained a capital photograph of +the deep bay which leads from Speke Gulf to Rugedzi Channel, and of the +mountains of Urirwi, across the bay. From Kisorya we moved to Ugoma, +where we halted, a sore trial to our patience, until the 11th of June, +on which day, with twenty-seven canoes of Ukerewé, we rowed to Wezi +Island,[15] situate nearly midway in Speke Gulf between Ukerewé and +Kagehyi. + +_June 12._—The next day, upon landing at Kagehyi, I whispered +instructions to Frank and Manwa Sera to haul up the canoes to a distance +of eighty yards on land, and with the aid of Lukongeh’s premier and the +king’s relatives induced the Wakerewé canoe-men, 216 in number, to store +their paddles in my hut. + +The Wakerewé were then apprised of the strategy of their king, and told +that there were four canoes left to them to return to Ukerewé, and that, +as it would occupy four days to transport their entire party back, beads +would be given for ten days’ provisions. At this the Wakerewé were +naturally very much surprised, and the uproar became tremendous. They +seized the premier, but he audaciously shuffled the fault upon the young +relatives, so releasing him they bound Lukongeh’s relatives, and would +undoubtedly have murdered them then and there but for the precautions I +had taken. A nod to Frank and Manwa Sera, and fifty Wangwana had dashed +up to the rescue and, charging on the excited mob with the muzzles of +their guns, drove them clear out of the village of Kagehyi. + +When the Wakerewé were outside, we held a palaver with them, at which it +was explained that we should wait six days at Kagehyi, during which time +they could communicate with Lukongeh, and if the king repented of his +promise, the canoes should be sent back, or that, if they pleased, they +could return and, by manning the canoes for us, would be sure of earning +each man his reward, but that the relatives of Lukongeh, being in my +camp and in my service, must not be molested, as I was bound to protect +them. + +This firm decision being fully explained to them, forty-five took the +four canoes given and returned to Ukerewé, to communicate with Lukongeh. +Six additional canoes, despatched by their friends the next day, +assisted in the transport of the natives of Ukerewé back to their +country; and on the third day our camp was emptied of almost all of +them, but though we waited seven days at Kagehyi, no further +communication came from Lukongeh, and therefore the premier and his five +servants departed. + + ---------------------------------------------------------------- + + [_To face page 202._ + +[Illustration: VIEW OF THE BAY LEADING TO RUGEDZI CHANNEL FROM KIGOMA, +NEAR KISORYA, SOUTH SIDE OF UKEREWÉ, COAST OF SPEKE GULF.] + +(_From a photograph by the Author._) + + ---------------------------------------------------------------- + +Meanwhile I had despatched messengers to all the districts around to +summon the people to a grain market, whereat all grain brought to +Kagehyi would be purchased, at the rate of eight measures (similar to +pecks) at the rate of one doti or four yards of blue, white, or coloured +cloth. By the 19th of June, 12,000 lbs. of grain, sesamum, millet, and +Indian corn, and 500 lbs. of rice had been purchased and stowed in cloth +sacks, each containing about 100 lbs. + +As the canoes were so rotten, the crews of each were detailed under the +supervision of Lukanjah, the nephew, and Mikondo, the cousin of +Lukongeh, to repair them. This was done by re-sewing many of the planks +with cane-fibre and caulking them with the bruised stalk of the banana. + +_June 20._—At early dawn we began the embarkation of 150 men, women, and +children, with 100 loads of cloth, beads, and wire, 88 sacks of grain, +and 30 cases of ammunition; and as I could not delegate to others the +care of the flotilla without feeling uncontrollable anxiety about it, +the _Lady Alice_, loaded with most of the ammunition, led the way at 9 +A.M. to Mabibi. These islets are three miles westward of Wezi, six miles +from Ukerewé, and about nine miles from Kagehyi. + +To my great satisfaction I perceived that the Wangwana would soon +acquire the art of paddling, though many were exceedingly timid on the +water. Until they gained confidence in their new duties, our plan was to +avail ourselves of the calm periods, and not to risk so many lives and +so much property in a tempestuous sea. + +A strong breeze from the north-west lasted all the morning, but at noon +it moderated, and two hours afterwards, taking advantage of the calm, we +pushed off from Mabibi, and, rounding the south-west corner of the +Ukerewé peninsula, pulled for the Kunneneh islets, which we reached +without loss or accident. Again the north-west breeze blew strong, and, +as it had power over a greater expanse of water, the waves did not +subside until 2 P.M. It was tough labour rowing against the heavy swell, +and the distance to the Miandereh Islands was long. By persevering, +however, we made good progress, yet at sunset Miandereh islets were not +in sight. + +Intense darkness set in. We could not see one another, though we could +hear the measured, rhythmic beat and splash of oar and paddle, but no +voices. Now and then I flashed a waxlight over the dark waste as a +beacon to the thoughtless and unwary. By this means, and by threats of +punishment to those who strayed from the line, the canoes were kept +together. + +We had proceeded quietly for three hours in the darkness, when suddenly +shrill cries were heard for “the boat.” Hurrying to the spot, I managed +to distinguish, to my astonishment, round dark objects floating on the +water, which we found to be the heads of men who were swimming towards +us from a foundered canoe. We took the frightened people on board, and +picked up four bales of cloth, but a box of ammunition and 400 lbs. of +grain had sunk. + +We moved forward again, but had scarcely gone half a mile when again +piercing cries from the deep gloom startled us. “The boat, oh, the +boat!” was screamed in frenzied accents. + +As we steered for the spot, I lit a wax taper and set fire to the leaves +of a book I had been reading during the afternoon, to lighten up the +scene. Heads of struggling men and bales were found here likewise in the +water, and a canoe turned bottom up with a large rent in its side; and +while distributing these among the other canoes, we heard to our alarm +that five guns had sunk, but fortunately no lives were lost or other +property, except four sacks of grain. + +My boat was now up to her gunwale with twenty-two men and thirty loads, +and if a breeze rose, she would, unless we lightened her of property, +inevitably sink. + +Through the darkness I shouted out to the frightened men, that if any +more canoes collapsed, the crews should at once empty out the grain and +beads, but on no account abandon their boats, as they would float and +sustain them until I could return to save them. + +I had scarcely finished speaking before the alarming cries were raised +again: “Master, the canoe is sinking! Quick, come here. Oh, master, we +cannot swim!” + +Again I hurried up to the cries, and distinguished two men paddling +vigorously, while five were baling. I was thinking how I could possibly +assist them, when other cries broke out: “The boat! Bring the boat here! +Oh, hurry—the boat, the boat!” Then another broke out, “And we are +sinking—the water is up to our knees. Come to us, master, or we die! +Bring the boat, my master!” + +It was evident that a panic was raging amongst the timid souls, that the +people were rapidly becoming utterly unnerved. In reply to their +frenzied cries, and as the only way to save us all, I shouted out +sternly: “You who would save yourselves, follow me to the islets as fast +as you can; and you who are crying out, cling to your canoes until we +return.” + +We rowed hard. The moon rose also, and cheered us in half an hour with a +sight of Miandereh, for which we steered. Her brightness had also the +effect of rousing up the spirits of the Wangwana; but still the piteous +cries were heard far behind: “Master! oh, master! bring your boat—the +boat.” + +“Hark to them, my boys—hark,” I sang out to my crew, and they responded +to my appeal by causing the _Lady Alice_ to fly through the water, +though the waves almost curled over her sides. “Pull, my men; break your +oars; shoot her through the water; life and death hang on your efforts. +Pull like heroes.” She hissed through the waves, as ten men, bending +with the wildest, most desperate effort, spurred her with their oars. + +Miandereh islets rose larger and clearer into view. “Hurrah, my boys, +here is our island! pull and defy the black water—your brothers are +drowning!” + +We reached Miandereh—shot the goods out, lightened her of the wrecked +men, and flew back again, skimming over the dark surface. + +There were two brothers who had been made coxswains of canoes, who came +prominently into notice on this terrible night. Each had his special +crew, friends and people of the same tribe, and their names were Uledi +and Shumari; the former about twenty-five years old, the latter +eighteen. + +As I was returning with my boat to the scene, two canoes passed me like +arrows. “Who go there?” I demanded. + +“Uledi and Shumari’s canoes,” replied somebody. + +“Return instantly, after unloading, to save the people.” + +“It is what we intend to do, Inshallah!” answered a voice. + +“Fine fellows those, I warrant them,” I thought. “Their very action and +tone reveal their brave spirits.” + +Away we flew to the rescue, blowing the bugle to announce our approach. +We passed three or four canoes, racing by us to the islets. Thank +Heaven, the lake was calm, and the moon shone clear and strong, casting +a golden light upon the waters. + +“You are brave fellows; pull, my sons; think of those poor men in +the lake in sinking canoes.” Responding to my prayers, the crew +almost cracked their hearts in the mighty efforts they made; their +quick-swaying figures, the deep sighs which burst from their breasts, +the careering boat, the excited helmsman, everything sympathized with +me. I seized one of the oars myself to relieve a lad, and to assist the +force which now dashed the boat over the water. She seemed instinct +with life. + +We now heard the cries for aid, “Oh, the boat! Master, bring the boat!” +come once more pealing over the golden lake from the foundering canoes. + +“Do you hear, men? break the oars—lift the boat over the water. We will +save them yet. It is to-night or never!” + +With fresh force she bounded upward. Every fibre of our straining bodies +and the full strength of our energies were roused, and in five minutes +we ran alongside first one canoe, then a second and a third—until again +the boat was down in the water to within an inch of her gunwale. But all +the people—men, women, and children—were saved. The light material of +which the canoes were constructed had sufficed to float the loads that +were in them. + +We rested until help should arrive, and presently Uledi’s and Shumari’s +canoes were seen advancing side by side, with lines of pale foam +flashing from each bow, as they were driven with the force of strong men +towards us. With loud, glad cries they stopped their furious career +alongside, and the first words they uttered were, “Are all safe?” + +“Yes, all,” we replied. + +“El hamd-ul’-illah!” (“Thanks be to God!”), they answered fervently. + +With the aid of these two canoes we were able to return to the islets +with the thirty-two men, women, and children, and the entire property +safe. Our loss during this fearful night was five canoes, five guns, one +case of ammunition, and twelve hundred pounds of grain. + +_June 21._—The next morning, leaving a third of the party and goods at +Miandereh, we departed for Singo, which we reached at 9 A.M. A few +canoes were then hastened back to Miandereh for the remainder. + +It will be remembered that, while the boat was returning from Uganda and +passing by Ito, an island situated half a mile south-west of Singo, the +natives of Ito drove us away by slinging stones at us. Such a force as +we now numbered could not be received with such rudeness: at the same +time they were secure from molestation by us. I despatched therefore +Lukanjah and Mikondo, the Wakerewé guides, to the Island of Ito, to +explain to the natives who we were, and to remove all fears of reprisal. +Lukanjah was extremely successful, and brought the chief of Ito, who, as +some atonement for our previous treatment, had furnished himself with +peace-offerings in the shape of a couple of fat kids, and several +bunches of mellow plantains. The large island of Komeh also, on the next +day, sent its king to rejoice with us over numerous jars of potent beer +and many slaughtered goats. The king of Komeh sold us besides four good, +almost new, canoes of sufficient capacity to render us secure from +further anxiety. + +The Wangwana, after their terrible experiences while crossing the +entrance to Speke Gulf, were awakened to the necessity of narrowly +inspecting and carefully repairing their canoes. At Kagehyi the repairs +had been extremely superficial, but the men were now fully alive to the +importance of good caulking and a thorough relacing of the planks +together, while Frank, Lukanjah, and I superintended their work. + +_June 24._—Seven hours’ paddling on the 24th of June brought us to +Refuge Island, and on its south side we proceeded to establish a small +camp. The 25th was employed in constructing one large store hut for the +grain, and another for the property of the Expedition; and the huts of +the garrison were built with due regard to the strict watch of the camp. + +After selecting forty-four men as garrison, and appointing Frank Pocock +captain and Manwa Sera his lieutenant, with the two guides, Lukanjah and +Mikondo, as interpreters in case of visitors, and leaving four canoes +for the garrison to communicate, if they wished, with the natives of +Itawagumba on the mainland, I began my return to Usukuma on the 26th +with the boat, seventeen canoes, and 106 men. + +_July 1._—Four days afterwards we reached Kagehyi, at 3 P.M. But as the +voyage had been extremely rough, only fourteen canoes were mustered in +the cove. + +When five days had passed, and we received no tidings of the three +canoes and their crews of thirteen men which were still absent, I +despatched a canoe with two Wangwana and eight Wasukuma to Lukongeh, the +king, requesting him to hunt up the laggards, who no doubt had either +deserted or had been captured by the Wakerewé. + +On this day also I purchased from Kipingiri, for 40 yards of cloth, a +large canoe capable of carrying thirty men, which the Wangwana, on +account of her uncouth shape, called the “Hippopotamus.” The wood of +which she was made was sycamore, and she was so rotten at the stern that +one thrust of my foot kicked a hole in her 9 inches in diameter. Though +she was an ancient craft, and heavy with saturation, she might, I +thought, be still made serviceable for the transport of the riding +asses. + +Whilst Uledi and Salaam Allah, the carpenters, and two or three chiefs, +were assisting me to repair the venerable “Hippo” in a hollow close to +the water’s edge, a man came rushing down, crying, “Quick! quick! +Master, the Wangwana are murdering one another! They are all dead men!” + +Leaving one man to look after our tools, we ran up the hill, and +witnessed a most horrible scene. About thirty men armed with guns were +threatening one another in an excited manner; others brandished clubs or +knobsticks; some held spears menacingly, while several flourished +knives. A frenzy seemed to have possessed the hitherto well-behaved +people. One man was already dead with a ghastly knife-wound in his +heart, another lay prostrate with a fractured skull from a knobstick, +and the author of this deed was even then striding with sweeping +flourishes of a long club through the ranks of a turbulent crowd, +delivering sounding blows on their heads and shoulders. + +Snatching a stout stick, I rapped the ruffian so vigorously over his +knuckles that he dropped his club and was secured by my assistants, and +then, calling the chiefs to my aid, we disarmed the infuriates. This +summary proceeding soon quelled the disturbance, and then, perceiving +that pombé—beer—was at the bottom of the mischief, all who were sober +were ordered to fall into line, by which we discovered that fifty-three +were quite intoxicated. + +Upon examination it was found that the murderer of Membé, one of the +stoutest of our boat-bearers, was Fundi Rehani, and that he who had +fractured the other man’s skull was Rehani, the brother of Membé. Both +were immediately secured for trial before Prince Kaduma, the Arab +Sungoro, and the Wangwana chiefs. The jars of pombé were broken, and +diligent search made in every place for beer. + +This bloodshed upon the soil of Usukuma had to be paid for out of my +cloth stores to mollify Prince Kaduma, and further payment was required +for the privilege of burial. + +The jury which I convened to adjudge the case sentenced the murderer to +death; but, as I would not consent to this extreme measure, the sentence +was changed to two hundred lashes and the chain, until his arrival at +Zanzibar, when he might be rendered to his prince. The drunken madman +Rehani, though he had been inspired to the fury which led him to +fracture a man’s skull by the sight of his dead brother, was also +condemned by the jury, for endangering the life of a perfectly innocent +man, to fifty lashes. These sentences, faithfully executed with due +ceremony in presence of all the Wangwana, affected them greatly, and I +took advantage of this scene to call the attention of the bully Msenna, +and others who had distinguished themselves in the previous day’s +ebullition of madness, to the punishment which must assuredly follow the +commission of such dreadful acts. + +_July 5._—On the 5th of July, to my great joy, the scouts sent to +Lukongeh in search of the missing canoes returned with two of them, but +of the third we received no news, until a year later—after our arrival +at Ujiji—when we heard that they had deserted and had proceeded direct +to Unyanyambé with their guns. The crews of the two canoes, now happily +restored to us, informed me that they had been driven by the gale to +seek shelter on the mainland of Ukerewé, where they were instantly +seized and conveyed to Lukongeh, when, instead of being slain, as the +natives expected the captives would be, they were kindly treated by the +king, proving to the islanders that the white man had only acted by his +orders. + +_July 6._—On the 6th of July, after giving farewell presents to Prince +Kaduma and his clever, genial princess, to the Arab Sungoro, Prince +Kipingiri of Lutari, and Kurereh—though the two latter little deserved +them—as well as to many others, I embarked all the people, animals, and +effects of the Expedition, and by ten o’clock we were safely clear of +Kipingiri’s power and vicious intents, and, for the last time, of +Kagehyi. + +There was not one feeling of regret in my breast at leaving this place, +where the Expedition had found a camp for over four months. Not that the +village was in any way destitute of comforts, for these it afforded, nor +that the natives were in any manner repugnant to me, for they were not; +but the objects for which we came into the land could never be attained +by unnecessary residence at any one spot. The time had simply arrived to +begin our travels again, and I was glad of it, for the bold and bad +Kipingiri was, I suspected, ever exercising an evil influence over +Kaduma. + +_July 11._—On the 11th of July we arrived safely and without accident +at Refuge Island, where I found the garrison thriving admirably. +Through the influence of young Lukanjah—the cousin of the king of +Ukerewé—the natives of the mainland had been induced to exchange their +churlish disposition for one of cordial welcome, and the process of +blood-brotherhood had been formally gone through between Maawa Sera, on +my part, and Kijaju, king of Komeh, and the king of Itawagumba on the +other part. + +Lukanjah, aware of the respect paid by his dusky brothers to power, had +deftly exaggerated my influence and the numbers of my force, until a +friendly alliance with one so powerful became a cherished project with +Kijaju, and caused him to seek it by a tribute of three fat oxen, six +goats, and fifty bunches of bananas, besides a store of delectable +maramba, upon which I found that the garrison had been subsisting during +my absence from Refuge Island. + +I deputed Frank to repay with cloths, beads, and wire Kijaju’s +generosity, for the constant anxiety which I suffered during the +passages between Refuge Island and Kagehyi, for the safety of my people +and effects, had induced such a serious illness, that for five days I +was unable to leave my hut on the island. + +_July 17._—On the sixth day, however, I left my bed and strolled over +the island on which, on that terrible day of our escape from Bumbireh, +we had found a refuge and relief in our distress, and now an asylum +for half of the Expedition for about a month. The younger portion of +the garrison knew every nook and cranny of our island home, and had +become quite attached to it. On the eastern side about fifteen fruit +trees had been discovered by them, laden with delicious berries, the +flavour of which seemed something of a mixture of custard apple and a +ripe gooseberry. The stones of this small fruit were two in number, +like small date-stones. The leaves of the tree resemble those of the +peach; its fruit are smooth-surfaced, and hang in threes; its wood +is tough and flexible. It is no doubt a species of the _Verbenaceæ_. +The garrison had failed to consume half the quantity found, so that, +when I arrived with a reinforcement of 150 men, there was a sufficient +quantity left to cause them all to remember the sweet fruit of Refuge +Island. + +On this day, Kijaju, king of Komeh, visited me, to our mutual +satisfaction. He furnished me with two guides to accompany me to Uganda, +who were to be returned to Komeh along with Lukanjah and Mikondo. Their +assistance was valuable only as the means of furnishing me with the +names of localities between Refuge Island and Uzongora. + +In the same manner that we had left Kagehyi, we departed from Refuge +Island, viz. by embarking the garrison, and leaving those who had stayed +at Kagehyi to rest upon Refuge Island until we should return for them. + +The night was passed with a wild dance under the moonlight, at which +three kings were present, who participated with all the light-hearted +gaiety of children in the joyous sport. + +Old Kijaju distinguished himself on the wild “fantastic toe” most +extraordinarily. Itawagumba, jealous of his uncle’s performance, exerted +himself with mad vigour, and the stalwart chief of Bwina bounded upward +as though performing on the flying trapeze. Young Lukanjah of Ukerewé, +and his royal relative Mikondo, with all the suppleness of acrobats, +made their début on this night with great spirit, and the hundred +warriors from the mainland sang to the dance with such force of lungs as +startled the colossal rocks of Refuge Island into echoing the wild +harmony. The Wangwana, headed by Frank and the gallant Manwa Sera, +enlarged the vast circle with 150 men and 20 women, and all voices +chimed to the song which old Kijaju sang to celebrate the day on which +the white chief made brotherhood with the king of Komeh. + +Refreshments were not wanting to cheer the dancers. Great masses of beef +were roasted over glorious fires, and many jars of beer and maramba, +brought from Bwina and Komeh, invited the special attention of the +thirsty. + +_July 18._—As we left Refuge Island, on the morning of the 18th of July, +the guides furnished by Kijaju, king of Komeh, propitiated the genius of +the lake with beads given to him for the occasion, and adjured it by +saying:— + +“Be kind to the white M’kama, O Nianja, I charge thee! Give him a safe +and prosperous voyage across thy wide waters.” + +From Kazaradzi Island, on which we rested for the night, we beheld a +most glorious sunset. The western sky, halfway up to the zenith, was all +aglow for about an hour with resplendent gold, which tinted mountain, +hill, plain, and lake with the reflection of the lustrous hue. + +_July 19._—Next day we sailed for Wawizua Island; and on the 20th, +passing by the picturesque islands of Mysomeh and Rumondo—every canoe +hoisting small lug-sails, made of the loin-cloths of the crew, in order +to benefit by the strong south-easter—we steered for Nameterré Island, +where we arrived without accident. + +_July 21._—On the 21st of July we arrived at the southernmost of the +dreaded Bumbireh group, Mahyiga Island, which I ascertained, after +careful survey, was not inhabited. + +At a little cove on the western side we discovered relics of a large +camp, which, by the shape of the dome-like huts and bonneted doorways +had, we were assured, been constructed by Waganda. Yet what force of +Waganda could have penetrated thus far to the south? + +As we were now in a dangerous neighbourhood, it behoved us to form a +proper camp, as a small party would be compelled to remain upon this +island until the remainder of the Expedition could be brought from +Refuge Island. For this purpose, every hand was employed to clear the +scrub and bush for a distance of 200 yards from the cove, and a road 12 +feet wide was cut from the south side of Mahyiga Island to the north +end. + +About 5 P.M. while we were still at work, two large canoes approached +cautiously from the direction of Iroba Island towards our cove. They +took great pains to ascertain the number of our canoes, and we could see +that they endeavoured to reckon up the number of men on the island +before they spoke a word. Finally they hailed us, and Lukanjah, of +Ukerewé, and Kijaju’s man were requested to reply to them. + +Our conversation, which was of great interest to us, as we burned to +know what to expect from Bumbireh, was as follows:— + +“Is this the white chief who was at Bumbireh?” + +“Yes.” + +“Oh, he was not lost on the Nianja then?” + +“No, he lives, and has returned.” + +“Oh. The white chief must not be angry with Iroba. We did not trouble +him, therefore he has no quarrel with us. The people of Bumbireh are +bad. What has the white chief come for?” + +“He is going to Uganda.” + +“How can he go to Uganda? Does he not know that Bumbireh is in the way, +and Ihangiro’s eyes will be upon him? Will he fly?” + +“No; he will proceed by water in his canoes. Tell Bumbireh the white +chief is not afraid; his young men are many in number. If the men of +Bumbireh wish to make friends, let Shekka send the oars he stole, and +the white chief will be glad.” + +“Magassa,” replied they, “who camped on that island you are on, received +the oars from Shekka, and he took them away to Uganda, believing you +were lost in the Nianja.” + +“The white chief was not lost; he is here. If it is true that the oars +are gone to Uganda, let Shekka make friends with the white chief, and +send him two or three men to go with him to Makongo, in Uzongora, or to +Uganda, as Lukongeh of Ukerewé and Kijaju of Komeh have done, and there +will be no more words between them.” + +“Shekka is very strong, and the men of Bumbireh are bold. Antari of +Ihanghiro, the great king, is stronger, and Shekka is his son. All this +Nianja about here is his water, and they will not let you pass. What +will the white chief do?” + +“Tell Shekka and Antari, his father, that the white chief will remain +here for many days. He will be glad to hear good words from them. When +he is ready to go away, he will let them know. If the king of Iroba is +the white chief’s friend, let him send food here to sell.” + +After promising to perform all that we required, and to bring food the +next day, the two canoes paddled away, two or three of their crews +laughing ostentatiously. + +_July 23._—On the morning of the 23rd, about 10 A.M., another canoe, +containing fifteen men, approached us from Iroba, in a bold, defiant +manner. We asked their crew if they brought food for sale. They replied, +“No; but you will get food in plenty by-and-by.” After taking a +searching look at our camp, they turned away, giving expression to their +contempt by a method which obtains all round the Uvuma, Uganda, +Uzongora, and Ukerewé coasts, viz. by throwing up water behind them in +the air with their paddles, which is as well understood as the British +youth’s gesture of placing a thumb to his nose. + +Lukanjah smiled when he saw this, and when requested to give me his +thoughts, he said significantly, “Those people mean something.” + +_July 24._—On the morning of the 24th, long before dawn, in order that +the Iroba or Bumbireh people might not espy their departure, I +despatched sixteen of the largest canoes under Manwa Sera, to return to +Refuge Island for the remainder of the Expedition, after many +injunctions to be cautious, and not to commit any folly. + +Our camp was now in perfect condition, and presented as clean and +orderly an appearance as two days’ labour could render it. Watch-huts +were also erected upon the highest part of the island, and five men +under a chief were detached for the duty of observation. The garrison +left with me upon the island consisted of forty-five men and the four +guides from my friends Lukongeh and the Kijaju. + +On this day also canoes came from Iroba, to the crews of which, as they +rested in the water, we exhibited beads and cloth, copper bracelets and +bright brass wire. In return for our professions of friendliness and our +proffers of gifts, they spurned the water towards us, and replied with +mockery. + +_July 25._—On the 25th, when the Iroba natives came, I adopted, after +due forethought, a sterner tone, perceiving that amiability was liable +to contempt and misconstruction. I told them that the king of Iroba must +prove his friendship by sending food for sale by noon of the next day; +and that as I was assured he was in communication with the king of +Bumbireh, his neighbour, I should expect either the return of the oars +or two or three men as sureties and pledges of peace. I knew the +mainland was hostile, and since I was compelled to proceed to Uganda, I +resolved to be assured, before venturing the lives of the women and +children in rotten and crowded canoes, that I should be permitted to +proceed in peace, and not be attacked midway between Bumbireh and the +mainland. + +The natives, cowed a little by the tone of voice, promised that there +should be no delay in sending provisions, bananas, milk, honey, +chickens, even oxen, for the white M’kama. + +_July 26._—On the morning of the 26th, the men at the observation-post +reported that they saw a great many canoes proceeding from the mainland +towards the great island of Bumbireh. I ascended the road to the summit, +and with my glass I counted eighteen canoes, heavily laden with men, and +watched them till they had passed round Iroba’s westernmost point +towards Bumbireh. It was evident that mischief was brewing, but how or +in what shape I could not tell. It was probable that they would attack +the island by night, knowing we were not very strong in numbers at the +time. It was a very possible feat, for the islanders, as we had +experienced, were not dull-witted, and were resolute and brave. +Meantime, what should I do in such a case? + +I waited until 3 P.M. for the king of Iroba. He did not come. Instant +action on my part was therefore imperative. + +I manned my boat and four of the canoes with thirty-five men, leaving +only Safeni with fourteen men in charge of the camp and island, and +proceeded to Iroba to make a reconnaissance. As we came up, I observed a +flutter of excitement on the shore. I steered straight for the beach +opposite a village, and landed. Twenty-five of the men were deployed as +skirmishers along the shore, to give due effect to what I purposed. +Lukanjah of Ukerewé was told to request the king of Iroba and elders to +approach, or we should begin fighting. + +They came to us, about fifteen in number. “Tell him, Lukanjah,” I said, +“that Iroba has behaved badly by sending his young men to laugh at us. +Since he has lied so many times to me, he himself and two of his chiefs +must depart with me to my camp. He will not be hurt, but he must stay +with me until Shekka of Bumbireh is in my hands, or peace is made as I +suggested.” + +There was no violence used, and the king of Iroba and two chiefs quietly +walked into the boat. When they were seated, the king was requested to +give instructions to his young men how to capture Shekka of Bumbireh and +two Bumbireh chiefs; and a solemn promise was given that on their +appearance the king of Iroba and his friends would be released. The +natives of Iroba, who were collected by this time on the beach, entered +into the project with animation. They declared that next day Shekka +should be in my hands. + +_July 27._—On the morning of the 27th, a canoe from Iroba came with +provisions for the king and chiefs, and to report their failure at +Bumbireh. One of the young men, said to be the king’s son, offered to +remain in his father’s place, while he himself should try to obtain +possession of Shekka’s person. This touching confidence so affected me +that, after inducing the king of Iroba to go through the process of +blood-brotherhood with one of the Wangwana, he was released. + +At 5 P.M., faithful to his promise that he would perform what I wished, +the king of Iroba brought the treacherous king of Bumbireh with two of +his chiefs, whose appearance, after he had landed at Mahyiga and been +recognised, was hailed with a loud shout by the Wangwana. He was about +to be maltreated, and had I not been present at the time, there is no +doubt that he would have been murdered by the enraged boat’s crew. But +they calmed down when they were told that his life and services were +necessary to us, and that good treatment might secure his friendship and +peace with Bumbireh. + +My purpose in possessing myself of the person of the king of Bumbireh +and his two chiefs may easily be divined. It must have been perceived +that weakness and irresolution—or, in other words, over-gentleness and +want of firmness—had proved harmful on several previous occasions. Thus, +the hesitation to act immediately after the commission of murder by the +Wanyaturu led them to imagine that it was fear which withheld us; the +forbearance exhibited at Ngevi Island only brought upon us more +annoyance; our mildness at Mombiti in Uvuma suggested the attack upon us +by stoning; our long-suffering temper at the straits between Uvuma and +Ugeyeya induced the Wavuma to proceed to piracy and violence; our +patient bearing at Bumbireh led the natives to think we might be +murdered like lambs; our placability merited and received the contempt +of the natives of Iroba; and a hundred times afterwards did I see that +the savage only respects force, power, boldness, and decision; and that +he is totally ignorant of the principles which govern the conduct of +Christian man to man. Forbearance is to him cowardice: mildness, +patience, and an equable temper are, in his undeveloped and unreasoning +mind, only evidences of effeminacy. But the murderous Wanyaturu, when we +finally turned out of our camp, learned, when it was too late, that our +womanly gentleness covered power; the audacious Wakamba at Ngevi Island +were only brought to their senses when they heard the startling reports +of the revolver; the intention of the daring Wavuma to murder was only +checked by quick, and energetic action; the treacherous rock-slingers of +Mombiti only desisted when fired upon; the ferocious Wa-Bumbireh only +respected us after our successful escape; the cunning king of Iroba only +became really friendly when we quietly showed our power, and his rapidly +growing insolence was only cowed by the exhibition of sternness. + +But the exercise of power without magnanimity is simply brutality, and +has only a transient effect. If, therefore, I could only show the king +of Bumbireh and his people that the first white man they had seen was +extremely gentle in his manner until aroused, but, though strong and +powerful when angered, was magnanimous afterwards, I should, I felt, +leave a lasting good effect upon their minds. Though Shekka’s capture +was necessary, in order to ensure the passage of the Expedition between +Bumbireh and Ihangiro in peace and safety, his good treatment and +after-release were none the less necessary also—provided that nothing +serious occurred in the meantime to prevent the exhibition of clemency +towards him.[16] + +Perceiving himself to be in the power of those whom he had outraged with +a wanton ferocity, and whom he had compelled to risk the terrors of the +stormy sea without the means of subsistence, or means to seek shelter +from the gales and tempests which prevail during the rainy season, +Shekka’s behaviour became as abject as it had been ferocious when our +positions were reversed. But he was informed in mild tones that we +sought not his life, but our own safety; that he was captured to secure +ourselves from violence by the possession of his person; that, while he +was a prisoner with us, there would be no fear that Antari of Ihangiro +and the people of Bumbireh would attack us by night, as they must know +that we possessed the means of retaliation through him. + +He was pleased to be communicative on this assurance, and informed us +that Antari was collecting a vast force on Bumbireh, by day and night, +for the purpose of attacking us on the island of Mahyiga. He imparted to +us also the narrative of how Antari’s father, in conjunction with Kytawa +in the days of old, had successfully defied for a long period the full +power of the great Suna of Uganda, and he was curious to know how a +small body of men like ourselves could hope to escape from Antari[17]—or +“the Lion”—of Ihangiro. + +Shekka was advised that, as we knew how to defend ourselves when +attacked, he had better send word to Bumbireh and to Antari that we did +not seek trouble, but were desirous of establishing peaceful relations +between the Wangwana and the natives. Three of the ordinary natives of +Bumbireh, who had been brought with Shekka and his two chiefs, were +therefore permitted to depart with the king of Iroba and his friends. + +_July 28._—At 9 A.M. the king of Iroba appeared again, this time with +gifts of milk, honey, bananas, and a fat kid, which kindness we +liberally reciprocated, not without much politic ostentation for the +advantage of Shekka and the natives. + +At noon he reappeared with three large canoes, containing twenty men +each, from Ihangiro, under the command of Antari’s chief elder. They +were permitted to land, though they were numerically superior to the +garrison on the island. But before I had given them permission to that +effect, Frank was requested to hold thirty men under arms to prevent +treachery and surprise. + +Our greeting was friendly, though there was a certain proud reserve in +their manner. + +“What says the king Antari?” I asked through Lukanjah. + +“Antari asks, ‘Why have you come to his waters and camped on his +island?’” + +“We have come because we must pass through to Uganda, and have rested on +Mahyiga to wait for our people. As I have not sufficient canoes to carry +my people and property in one passage, I must leave some here, while I +proceed to Uganda with the first half of the party. I wish to be assured +by Antari that in my passage by Bumbireh we shall not be attacked, nor +the party which must be left in my absence on this island be molested. +What say you?” + +“Antari says he is a great and strong king. All the mainland which you +see from Rumondo to Kytawa’s is his, so are all these islands and +waters. He has never seen strangers before travelling by sea; they +always went by land. He says, ‘You must go back.’” + +“We cannot go back, tell him,” I replied. “This water belongs to every +stranger, as much as the wind. The island may be his, but no one dwells +on Mahyiga, and we will not injure the rocks.” + +“Antari says he will make peace only if you go back. He sends these +three bunches of bananas to you, and this woman and child.” + +“We do not deal in slaves, and three bunches of bananas are of no use to +us. We want permission to pass quietly and peacefully through to Uganda, +and if Antari will send many bananas to us, we will buy them, as we have +many mouths with us.” + +“Then Antari says he will make war on you, and kill you all.” + +“Ah, does he say those words?” + +“Yes, Antari says those words.” + +I whispered to Frank to bring Shekka, who was immediately brought to +their presence. When they saw him, they all rose to a man with +threatening actions. We all rose also, in a prepared attitude, which +convinced them that violence was useless. I said to the elders— + +“Sit down, and carry my words to Antari. Open your ears wide, and +understand. Antari is Mtesa’s slave; I am Mtesa’s friend. Antari’s +people rob and try to murder Mtesa’s friend, but he escapes, and has now +come back on his way to Mtesa. Again, Antari and his people are busy +preparing war against Mtesa’s—Antari’s master’s—friend. He sends many +canoes and hundreds of men to Bumbireh. He also sends three canoes to +tell me that he is about to fight me, and perhaps—you know best—to +rescue Shekka, who is my means for securing my safety. Tell Antari that +the white man is not a woman, and that lying words will not be swallowed +by him. He means to go to Uganda, whether Antari will let him or not. If +Antari fights, tell him to remember how the white man escaped from +Bumbireh. The white man wants peace, but he is not afraid of Antari. Now +go, and carry every word to Antari, and to-morrow, by noon, I must have +his answer, or I shall carry Shekka and his two chiefs to Uganda, and +deliver them up to Mtesa.” + +Without giving them time to consider further, we urged them towards +their canoes, not violently, but firmly. When the principal elder had +recovered his senses, which he did not until he felt himself safe in his +canoe, it seemed to dawn on his mind that I was purposely avoiding +violence, and he said— + +“Let the white man rest in peace. You have Antari’s son, Shekka, in your +hands. Antari will not fight you. I will speak to him truly, and when +the sun is high I shall return with words of peace.” + +“It is well. Tell Antari his son shall not be hurt, and will be +delivered over to his people as soon as we shall have passed Bumbireh +safely.” + +Those were days which required caution, for the first false or weak step +would have ensured the destruction of the Expedition, the members of +which I was bound by every principle of honour to protect and defend to +the best of my ability. They had pledged themselves to me only upon the +condition that I should secure their safety, and they looked to me to +watch and guard their lives with paternal care. In my opinion, +considering all the circumstances, I could not have better avoided +trouble than—while the savages were actively preparing and offensively +boasting—by acting as I did. + +About 4 P.M. a small fleet of six beautiful canoes, painted a brown +colour, were seen approaching us, having travelled mid-channel between +Bumbireh and Ihangiro. We soon made them out to be Waganda, and when the +chief, who was received with loud and warm greetings, had landed, he +gave his name as Sabadu. + +He soon informed us that he was on a double errand, one of which was to +proceed to Kagehyi in Usukuma to convey the Arab Sungoro to Uganda, and +the other was to hunt up news of myself. He said also that I had been +reported by the long-lost Magassa, on his return to Uganda, to have been +either murdered by the savages of Bumbireh or to have foundered in the +lake. He had returned with the oars and drum to Mtesa, who was much +shocked at the sight of them, for he believed that, as the oars were our +“feet,” we were murdered. But as nothing else was found, such as traces +or parts of the boat, Mtesa was in doubt; he had therefore enjoined +Sabadu to make strict inquiries at all points about me, and had +despatched Magassa with a strong force by land to Uzongora and Ihangiro, +and a Mtongoleh, called M’kwanga, with a fleet of eight canoes, to +prosecute a more rigid search by water along all the coasts. Sabadu said +also that, while he was at Kytawa’s with M’kwanga, on the mainland, he +had heard of our danger, and had hurried up to assist us, and that +M’kwanga would appear on the morrow with eight canoes, manned by +Waganda, and five canoes manned by Kytawa’s people under two chiefs, +who, by their influence with Antari, might negotiate a successful peace. + +Sabadu, upon delivering his news, was, as may well be imagined, heartily +welcomed, and was readily induced, upon my taking the responsibility, to +remain with me, to assist in the transport of the Expedition to Uganda, +for which his canoes, with those of M’kwanga and Kytawa, would prove +amply sufficient. He was also informed in his turn of the state of +affairs at Bumbireh and Ihangiro, at which he expressed great +indignation; but both he and Bugomba—a youth of sixteen, the brother of +the Katekiro, or Premier, of Uganda—were confident that, when they +should proceed to Bumbireh to treat with the natives through the +assistance of Kytawa’s chiefs, they would be able to persuade them to +abandon their hostile attitude. My experience of the people of Bumbireh, +however, would not permit me to entertain this feeling of assurance. + +_July 29._—About 11 A.M. M’kwanga’s search expedition, consisting +of eight large canoes, accompanied by five of a smaller size, under +two chiefs of Kytawa, arrived at Mahyiga Island, containing about 250 +Waganda and 50 Wazongora. Including the crews of Sabadu’s canoes, the +garrison of Mahyiga, and the natives of Komeh and Ukerewé, I had now a +force of 470 men. There was no fear of the issue of an attack on the +island now, but a fear of famine remained. + +The king of Iroba was appealed to, and for an adequate remuneration he +promised to supply the Waganda with bananas; while we possessed +sufficient grain upon which the Wangwana might subsist for a few days +longer. The king of Iroba again confirmed the information that Antari +was collecting a large force of canoes, and about sunset a single canoe, +powerfully manned, dashed up opposite our camp, and one man stood up +with spear and shield, and delivered a stout defiance, after which the +canoe as hastily departed for Bumbireh, without paying any attention to +Kytawa’s chiefs. + +It was apparent that our departure for Uganda would be hotly contested, +but of the result there could be but one opinion. What kind of canoes +Antari possessed I knew by the specimens which Kytawa, who was neighbour +to him, sent to us at Mahyiga. Their number would be probably a hundred, +which, with a crew of ten men in each, would amount to a thousand. +Allowing six bowmen in each canoe, this would make the fighting force +about 600 strong, against which I could offer 70 guns and about 350 +effective spearmen of Uganda. + +_August 2._—However, it was my duty to persist in avoiding the bloody +conflict, as it would assuredly be by water, and employ all my efforts +towards bringing Antari and the natives of Bumbireh to a sense of the +inutility of hostile demonstrations. Messages of a peaceful nature +accordingly passed between us. Antari’s elders visited us once more, on +the 2nd of August, this time with an assurance that we should not be +molested, as a proof of which they said that Antari had given orders to +the people of Bumbireh to sell us provisions upon the condition that we +should deliver Shekka, Antari’s son, and two other chiefs to Kytawa, the +day we should arrive on the mainland. + +This news was received with shouts of applause by all, and no one was +more sincerely glad that the trouble was over than myself, though there +was something in the manner of the delivery, in the sly exchange of +looks between Antari’s elders and the prisoners, that I did not like. It +may have been that a slight suspicion still lurked in my mind, but I did +not permit any sign of doubt to escape me, but treated the elders +affably and courteously. + +Sabadu—who was of a sanguine disposition—and young Bugomba were for +testing the truth of this manifestation of friendship at once, but I +restrained them for this day, as we possessed sufficient food for the +time being. The Waganda also were eager to remind me that they were a +people decidedly averse to scarcity, and they obtained my promise that +next morning they should have cloths and beads wherewith to purchase +food. + +_August 3._—Accordingly the next day Sabadu was despatched with beads, +cowries, and cloths to Kajurri, from the cove of which we had made our +escape in April. They were absent about six hours, during which time I +was very anxious, as the event would decide our future. + +“What is the news, Sabadu?” I asked eagerly as he stepped on the shore +near our camp with gloomy looks. “Anything wrong?” + +“Ah,” he sighed; “the people of Bumbireh are bad, wicked people. We +went on shore at Kajurri, saw some twenty people there, and Kytawa’s +chief talked with them. They said we might go and cut as many bananas +as we wanted, and they would talk afterwards about the price we should +have to pay. The Waganda left their spears, and, taking only their +_mundu_—bill-hooks—proceeded to cut the fruit while I remained in the +canoe. Suddenly I heard a shout and a rustling in the banana grove, and +the Waganda came running back, and pushing the canoes into the water, +plunged in, and got on board. Kytawa’s chief had his left arm chopped +clean off, and then they cut him on the head, which killed him. Eight +of the Waganda[18] have been badly hurt. They will be carried on shore +presently, and you shall see them. Bumbireh! ah, ah! Bumbireh is bad!” +he said emphatically. + +The wounded men were brought on shore with ghastly wounds from spears, +and one or two from arrows, at the sight of which a grand rush was made +upon the captives by two or three hundred excited Waganda and Wazongora, +but with the aid of the Wangwana and Frank we saved them. + +“Gently, gently, friends,” we cried; “these men are not they who are +guilty of this deed. Do not ill-use them; they are innocent.” + +M’kwanga, the chief of the search expedition of Waganda, was furious. He +seized his shield and three spears, and called his men together, telling +them to arm, as he would lead them through and through Bumbireh, and +then would proceed to Antari and slay him in his house, would cut down +every banana, burn down every hut, and scorch Ihangiro to a cinder, &c. + +But M’kwanga was persuaded to be patient, and not foolishly throw more +lives away. We should, I told him, consult together, and if I found, +after consideration, that my duty was to avenge this deed, I should do +it. + +Said he: “If you do not assist me to punish this treachery, you need +never expect to see Mtesa’s face or Uganda again. The Waganda came to do +you service; they came to seek you while Mtesa believed you were lost. +The Waganda, with myself and Sabadu, promised to stand by you when we +heard you were in danger. The Waganda left your camp with your consent +to go and get food for you as well as for us. Kytawa’s chief is dead, +and here are eight wounded men. What will you do?” + +“Only what I think is right, and after proper consideration. If I do not +assist you, it will not prevent you from going to fight them to-morrow.” + +“But,” said M’kwanga, “if I go to fight to-morrow by myself, I shall +never return to Mahyiga.” + +He stalked away sullenly, and the Waganda became cold and distant +towards us, as though we were to blame for the sad event. The Wazongora +bewailed their chief aloud, and the strangely mournful tones of their +lamentations produced a powerful impression on all who heard them. + +Before many minutes had elapsed, I had manned my boat and five canoes, +and was on my way to Iroba before the intelligence could be spread, +simply with the view to ascertain how far the king of Iroba was involved +in this affair. I found him to be perfectly innocent of all knowledge of +anything that had occurred at Bumbireh since morning. Upon asking him if +any natives of Ihangiro were there, he answered that one of Antari’s +youngest sons was there. We proceeded to the hut, and the young man was +secured and conveyed into the boat, and the king of Iroba was instructed +to convey the intelligence to Bumbireh to the chiefs of Antari’s people, +and to tell them that, if they intended to make peace, they must be +quick, and send me word of it before noon of the next day, as I should +not be able to restrain the Waganda or defer my departure another day. + +The arrival of messengers from the post of observation on the summit of +the island announcing that the canoes of the Expedition were seen coming +from the south, distracted the attention of all for a period, and soon +the summit was lined with the figures of the anxious Wangwana, some of +whom had wives and children, besides relatives and friends in the little +fleet that was bearing towards the island with miniature sails set. + +By sunset they were answering their safe arrival close to us with cheer +after cheer, and soon had landed amid hearty greetings. + +But Manwa Sera, to cap the day’s dismal and tragic record, had to report +the loss of two men, who were drowned by the collapse of one of the +rotten canoes, which added another cause for grief. The riding asses +also were in a pitiable condition, for the poor things, being obliged to +be bound in the small canoes, were terribly chafed even to the quick, +and could scarcely stand. The rest of the force were in good condition, +and no property had been lost or other accident occurred. + +That evening, while the sorrowing Wazongora made the camp doleful with +their loud mournful cries for the dead chief, Frank and all the Wangwana +chiefs were summoned to my tent to discuss our future. I only wished to +hear their views, to discover their sentiments, not to disclose my own. +The unanimous opinion of the party was that we were bound to fight. All +I could say on the other side availed nothing to shake the decision they +had arrived at. Then they were dismissed with a promise that I should +impart my resolution in the morning. I also enjoined on Frank to double +the guard over the captives, lest they might be injured during the +night. + +Alone with myself, I began to discuss seriously the strict line of duty. +If it were a military Expedition that I commanded, duty would have +pointed out the obvious course to follow; but though the Expedition was +governed for its own well-being after military principles, it was an +expedition organized solely for the purposes of exploration, with a view +to search out new avenues of commerce to the mutual advantage of +civilization and such strange lands as we found suitable for commercial +and missionary enterprise. But whatever its character, its members +possessed the privilege of self-defence, and might justly adopt any +measures, after due deliberation, for self-protection. The principles of +right and justice every educated Christian professes to understand, and +may be credited with a desire to observe, but in addition to these, it +was desirable in a person in my position—knowing how frequently it is +necessary to exercise them in barbarous lands—to remember charity and +forbearance, in order to ensure the objects in view, and to create good +impressions for the benefit of those who might succeed the pioneer. + +Thirteen days had elapsed since our arrival at Mahyiga, and the +thirteenth day was signalized by this bloody attack upon people +entrapped to their death maliciously, and evidently by a preconcerted +arrangement between Antari’s elders and the chiefs of Bumbireh. Sabadu +said also that the last words he had heard as the Waganda paddled away +from Bumbireh were, “Look out for mischief to-morrow,” which no doubt +meant that the war “shauri” was nearly terminated, and that all were by +this time worked up into proper fighting spirit. + +The Expedition was now ready to move towards Uganda, but the water-way +had first to be opened; whatever plot was on hand must be frustrated, +and treachery punished; otherwise impunity would inspire an audacity +which might be dangerous to our safety. + +Apart, therefore, from a duty owing to the wounded Waganda and the dead +chief of Kytawa, as well as to our respect for and gratitude to Mtesa +and Kytawa—apart from the justice which, according to all laws human and +divine, savage and civilized, demands that blood shall atone for blood, +especially when committed with malice prepense, and the memory of our +narrow escape from their almost fatal wiles, and the days of agony we +had suffered—there lay the vital, absolute, and imperative necessity of +meeting the savages lest they should meet us. For they were by this time +reinforced by about 2000 auxiliaries from the mainland; they were +flushed with triumph at their success in the snare they had set for the +unsuspecting Waganda, and the sight of their dead victim would only +inspire them with a desire for more blood. + +As I could not see any way to avoid the conflict, I resolved to meet +them on their own island, and by one decisive stroke break this +overweening savage spirit. I should, however, wait the result of my last +message, for it might be that the capture of one of Antari’s sons might +induce them to embrace peaceful proposals. + +_August 4._—Accordingly next morning a couple of ammunition boxes were +opened, and twenty rounds distributed to each man who bore a ride or +musket; 230 spearmen and fifty musketeers were detailed for a fighting +party, and eighteen canoes were prepared to convey them to Bumbireh. + +I waited until noon, having gazed through a field-glass many times in +the direction of Bumbireh, but nothing was observed approaching Mahyiga. + +The force was therefore mustered, and I addressed it to this effect— + +“My friends and Wangwana,—We must have the sea clear. Whatever mischief +these people have meditated must be found out by us, and must be +prevented. I am about to go and punish them for the treacherous murder +of our friends. I shall not destroy them, therefore none of you are to +land unless we find their canoes, which we must break up. We must fight +till they or we give in, for it can only be decided in this manner. +While in the fight you will do exactly as I tell you, for I shall be +able to judge whether their fierce spirit is broken, or whether we shall +have to fight on land.” + +As the distance between Bumbireh and Mahyiga was about eight miles, we +did not arrive until 2 P.M. before the former island. It was evident +that the savages had expected us, for the heights of the hilly ridge +were crowded with large masses, and every point was manned with +watchmen. + +Through my field-glass I observed messengers running fast to a thick +plantain grove which crowned the southernmost hill, and commanded a view +of all approach to a cove that penetrated to its base. It was clear that +the main force of the natives was ready in the shadows of the grove. +Calling the canoes together, I told the chiefs to follow my boat, and to +steer exactly as I did. We made a feint of entering into this cove, but +when near the point, perceiving that we were hidden by the lofty hill +from the observation of those in the grove and of the look-outs, we +swerved to the left, and, clinging to the land, pulled vigorously until +we came to a cape, after rounding which we came in view of a fine and +noble bay to our right. + +By this manœuvre the enemy was revealed in all his strength. The savages +were massed behind the plantains as I had suspected, and from their +great numbers proved much too strong to be attacked under cover. All the +eastern and northern sides of the bay were surrounded by lofty hills, +which sloped steeply to within a few feet of the water’s edge, and were +covered with small shingly rocks and thin short grass. The low shelf of +land that lay between the hill base and the water was margined with tall +cane-grass. + +We steered straight east towards the more exposed hill slopes. The +savages, imagining we were about to effect a landing there, hurried from +their coverts, between 2000 and 3000 in number. I examined the shores +carefully, to see if I could discover the canoes which had conveyed this +great number of warriors from the mainland. Meanwhile we pulled slowly, +to afford them time to arrange themselves. + +Arrived within 100 yards of the land, we anchored in line, the stone +anchors being dropped from midships that the broadsides might front the +shore. I told Lukanjah of Ukerewé to ask the men of Bumbireh if they +would make peace, whether we should be friends, or whether we should +fight. + +“Nangu, nangu, nangu!” (“No, no, no!”) they answered loudly, while they +flourished spears and shields. + +“Will they not do anything to save Shekka?” + +“Nangu, nangu! Keep Shekka; he is nobody. We have another M’kama” +(king). + +“Will they do nothing to save Antari’s son?” + +“Nangu, nangu. Antari has many sons. We will do nothing but fight. If +you had not come here, we should have come to you.” + +“You will be sorry for it afterwards.” + +“Huh,” incredulously. “Come on; we are ready.” + +Further parley was useless; so each man having taken aim was directed to +fire into a group of fifty or thereabouts. The result was several killed +and wounded. + +The savages, perceiving the disastrous effect of our fire on a compact +body, scattered, and came bounding down to the water’s edge, some of the +boldest advancing until they were hip-deep in water; others, more +cautious, sought the shelter of the cane-grass, whence they discharged +many sheaves of arrows, all of which fell short of us. + +We then moved to within 50 yards of the shore, to fire at close +quarters, and each man was permitted to exercise himself as he best +could. The savages gallantly held the water-line for an hour, and slung +their stones with better effect than they shot their arrows. The spirit +which animated them proved what they might have done had they succeeded +in effecting a landing at Mahyiga by night, but here, however, the +spear, with which they generally fight, was quite useless. + +Perceiving that their spirit was abating, we drew the canoes together, +and made a feint as though we were about to make a precipitate landing, +which caused them to rush forward by hundreds with their spears on the +launch. The canoes were then suddenly halted, and a volley was fired +into the spearmen, which quite crushed their courage, causing them to +retreat up the hill far away from the scene. Our work of chastisement +was complete. + +The Waganda spearmen (230 strong), who had been, up to this time, only +interested spectators, now clamoured loudly to be permitted to land and +complete the work of vengeance. M’kwanga was fierce in his demands; the +Wangwana seconded the Waganda, and in their hot ardour several of the +canoes rushed on the shore, but as this extremity was not my object, I +resisted them, and when, despite my refusal, they persisted in their +attempts to land, I threatened to fire upon the first man, Mgwana or +Mgwanda, who set foot upon the shore, and this threat restored order. + +Lukanjah was again told to warn the natives of Bumbireh that, if they +had not had enough of fighting, we should return next day, but that we +would allow them a night to think over it. + +It was dark when we arrived at our camp; but we did not omit, while +passing Iroba, to comfort the friendly king with the assurance that he +need not fear trouble, as he was not involved in the atrocious acts of +Bumbireh. + +_August 5._—Having thus shown sufficient boldness in meeting the enemy +and demonstrated our ability for the encounter, it was now clear that +the passage of the channel, with the women and children and property of +the Expedition, might be performed without danger. Accordingly, on the +5th of August, at early dawn, we began the embarkation. The fourteen +Kiganda canoes were large, with ample storage room, and all the goods, +ammunition, and asses, and all the timid, men, women, children, and +Wanyamwezi, were placed in these. Our eighteen canoes of Ukerewé and +Komeh and five lent us by generous Kytawa proved sufficient to transport +the remainder, consisting of the more active members of the party, who +were directed, in the event of trouble, to range on either side. + +At the tap of M’kwanga’s drum, without which no party of Waganda march, +and a cheery blast from Hamadi’s bugle, the thirty-seven canoes and +boat, containing 685 souls, departed from our island cove towards +Bumbireh. + +About 9 A.M. we were abreast of Bumbireh, and when, on coming to the +bay, we saw hundreds of people lining the topmost ridges, I deemed it +expedient to make a demonstration once more in order to discover the +effect of the previous day’s engagement. On arriving near the shore, a +shot was fired, the effect of which was to cause about a hundred to +scamper away hastily. Others, whom we distinguished as elders, after +hailing us, came down towards us. + +Lukanjah was requested to ask, “If we were to begin the fight again?” + +“Nangu, nangu, M’kama.” (“No, no, king.”) + +“The trouble is over then?” + +“There are no more words between us.” + +“If we go away quietly, will you interfere with us any more?” + +“Nangu, nangu.” + +“You will leave strangers alone in future?” + +“Yes, yes.” + +“You will not murder people who come to buy food again?” + +“Nangu, nangu.” + +I then told them that, having murdered one and wounded eight of Mtesa’s +people, it would be my duty to convey Shekka and his friends to him, but +I should intercede for them, and they would probably be back in two +moons. Advantage was also taken to point out the contrast between the +conduct of Bumbireh and that of Ukerewé, Komeh, Itawagumba, Kytawa, and +Kamiru, and to adorn the brief speech with a moral. + +Turning away, we coasted along the much indented shores of the savage +island, and several times had opportunities of distinguishing the +altered demeanour of the natives and to observe that their fierce temper +had abated. + +King Kamiru received us with princely magnificence. The Wazongora who +were with us extolled me as a father and begged his permission to +accompany me to Uganda. Kamiru, a bluff, hearty old man, kindly +consented, and furnished us with canoes to replace four of the most +rotten of the vessels from Ukerewé, which required constant caulking and +baling to prevent their foundering. The generous king supplied Frank and +myself with such a quantity of milk and honey that several potfuls +broke, and a section of the boat was a couple of inches deep with the +luscious mixture, which the boat’s crew licked up with broad grins of +satisfaction. + +A bay separates Ihangiro from King Kamiru’s land. We were encamped on +the north side, which belongs to Kamiru; had we ventured on the south +side, we should have been in the enemy’s country. Desirous of showing +some kindness to Shekka and his friends, I made proposals to Kamiru to +accept them on behalf of Mtesa and to negotiate with Antari for their +release, but the king peremptorily refused, saying that he would be +unable to protect them, and that as they were Mtesa’s subjects, they +ought to be given up to him. + +_August 8._—On the 8th of August we arrived once more on the little +island of Musira, whither we had before been driven by the natives of +Makongo, in King Kytawa’s country. The elders of all the villages along +his coast greeted us with acclamation. Makongo outdid the generosity of +Kamiru, for it sent four oxen besides 200 bunches of bananas. Kytawa +despatched quite a little army to bear his salaams and gifts of +provisions and messages, thanking me for avenging the death of his +chief, and making an offer of twenty canoes if I were short of vessels. + +Inspired by the effect on the Wazongora which the punishment of the +natives of Bumbireh had created, Sabadu hinted that it would be +desirable to threaten Kyozza, the king of northern Uzongora, but he was +speedily made to understand that white men only fought in self-defence. + +As we proceeded by Kyozza’s villages, Kagya, Weza, and Bugavu, the +inhabitants lined the shores without arms and loudly greeted us; and +when we stopped for our midday meal at a village near Weza, a messenger +from Kyozza came and promised us ten oxen if we would wait for that day +and accept his hospitalities. We returned a courteous reply, but +refused, upon the ground that we were in a hurry to proceed to Uganda. + +_August 12._—We halted at Mezinda, and on the 12th of August, passing by +the mouth of the Alexandra Nile and Chawasimba Point, directed our +course for Dumo, in Uganda, at which place we arrived in the afternoon +without further incident of interest. + +The next day was devoted to preparing a camp, arranging for supplies +with the neighbouring Watongoleh of Mtesa during my absence, and writing +letters to the _Daily Telegraph_ and _New York Herald_, giving in brief +an account of the events which are described in detail in this chapter, +a copy of which was left with Frank to send to the coast by way of +Karagwé and Unyanyembé. + +A score of small matters employed my attention until midnight, of a +similar nature to those arranged before setting out from Kagehyi on the +exploration by circumnavigation of Lake Victoria in March. Before +retiring, messengers arrived in camp from Magassa—the dilatory admiral +of the canoe fleet despatched as my convoy in April—entreating me to +wait a couple of days for him before setting out for the capital of +Uganda. But as every hour was now precious, I was not able to defer my +departure. + +----- + +# 15: + + This island has since had attached to it a sad interest. At Wezi, + Lieutenant Shergold Smith, and Mr. O’Neil, of the Church Missionary + Society, together with Sungoro the Arab, and many of their followers, + lately lost their lives while endeavouring to remove the Arab’s women— + among whom was Lukongeh’s young sister—from Ukerewé, without the + king’s permission or consent. + +# 16: + + On page 32, vol. i., ‘Last Journals,’ Livingstone says:—“It may have + been for the best that the English are thus known as people who can + hit hard when unjustly attacked, as we on this occasion most certainly + were.” Other instances could be cited from his books to prove Dr. + Livingstone’s views on such occasions. + +# 17: + + Antari, or “the lion,” is a favourite name with the Wahuma tribes. + +# 18: + + Six of these died subsequently to our arrival in Uganda, from the + effects of these wounds. + + + + + CHAPTER XII. + +We find Mtesa at war—“Jack’s Mount”—Meeting with Mtesa—The Waganda army + in camp and on the march—The imperial harem—In sight of the enemy—The + Waganda fleet—Preliminary skirmishing—The causeway—The massacre of + Mtesa’s peace party—“What do you know of angels?”—Mtesa’s education + proceeds in the intervals of war—Translating the Bible—Jesus or + Mohammed?—Mtesa’s decision—The royal proselyte. + + +_August 13._—At Dumo rumour and gossip were busy about a war and a +mighty preparation which Mtesa, the Emperor of Uganda, was making for an +expedition against the Wavuma. He had not been as yet actually engaged, +it was said, though it was expected he would be shortly. In the hope, +then, of finding him at his capital, I resolved to be speedy in reaching +him, so that, without much delay, I might be able to return and +prosecute my journey to Lake Albert. + +The first day, favoured by a gale from the north-west, the _Lady Alice_ +left the fastest of the Waganda canoes far behind, but, obliged to halt +for her company, put in for the night among the mosquito-haunted papyrus +of Bwiru. The next day, after sailing across Sessé Channel, and passing +the mouth of the Katonga, we rested at Jumba’s Cove in Unjaku. From this +cove runs a wide road constructed by Mtesa about two years before, when +he undertook to invade Ankori and punish Mtambuko, the king of that +shepherd state. Though untouched during two years, it is still +sufficiently clear of grass to define its width and illustrate the +energy of Mtesa when aroused. + +_August 18._—On the 18th of August we sailed to Ntewi, where we learned +two reliable facts. The king had already marched towards Usoga, and had +an engagement with his enemies, the Wavuma. When I heard this news, I +felt more than half inclined to turn back, for I knew by experience that +African wars are tedious things, and I was not in the humour to be +delayed long; but on reflection, and after much importunity from the +Waganda, I adhered to the first intention, by which I thought that +probably, though delayed, I might reach the Albert Nyanza by a short +route, which would in a manner balance the delay occasioned by visiting +Mtesa. + +We also heard that the Wavuma were abroad on the lake in hundreds of +canoes searching for prey, and, not wishing the _Lady Alice_, which had +already done me such good service, to fall into their hands, we conveyed +the boat into the centre of the village, where we stored her and her +appurtenances—oars, sails, rudder, &c. I also heard that the oars, which +Magassa had received from Bumbireh, were in the chief of Ntewi’s house, +and had the satisfaction of seeing them once more under the charge of +the boat-keeper. We halted at Ntewi one day, by which I was enabled not +only to house the boat properly and to receive the oars, but to meet the +two soldiers left as guard of honour with Magassa and to receive salaams +from Mtesa, and more guards to ensure my welcome and comfort _en route_ +to him. + +_August 20._—Under the auspices of a considerable addition to our +convoy, we left Ntewi, and, paddling vigorously during the afternoon of +the 20th, arrived at Nankuma, in the bay of Buka. Here we left the +canoes, and the next day prosecuted our journey overland to avoid the +Wavuma, and camped at Ziba, at the base of “Jack’s Mount.” + +This name is derived from a fatal accident to my faithful companion +Jack, a bull-terrier of remarkable intelligence and affection which +accompanied me from England. A wild cow given by the Mtongoleh for the +subsistence of the king’s stranger, being rather obstreperous in her +behaviour, was assaulted by Jack, but the cow in her turn tossed the +unfortunate dog and gored him to death. He died “regretted by all who +knew his many good qualities.” His companion, “Bull,” the last of five +English dogs, when he beheld his poor mate stretched out still and dead, +also expressed, as clearly as canine nature would allow, his great +sorrow at his lamentable fate. Grave and deliberate from years and long +travel, he walked round the body two or three times, examining it +carefully, and then advanced to me with his honest eyes wide open as if +to ask, “What has caused this?” Receiving no answer, he went aside and +sat down with his back to me, solemn and sad, as though he were +ruminating despondingly on the evils which beset dog and man alike in +this harsh and wicked world. + + ---------------------------------------------------------------- + + [_To face page 234._ + +[Illustration: VIEW OF RIPON FALLS FROM THE UGANDA SIDE.] + +(_From a photograph by the Author._) + + ---------------------------------------------------------------- + +_August 22._—The next day, marching in an east by north direction from +Jack’s Mount, we crossed the Zedziwa, a stream rising at the base of a +hill situated but two miles from the north-western extremity of +“Grant[19] Bay,” which I believe to be the “Luajerri,” a stream Speke +sketched on his map as issuing from the Victoria and forming a second +outlet into the Nile. + +Having explored by water all the coast washed by the Victoria Nyanza and +having since travelled on foot the entire distance between Nakaranga +Cape and Buku Bay, I can state positively that there is but one outlet +from the lake, viz. the Ripon Falls. There are three rivers, one on the +Usoga side of Napoleon Channel, called the Nagombwa, and two on the +Uganda side—the Zedziwa, rising in Makindo near Grant Bay, and the +Mwerango, rising west of Mtesa’s capital—any of which, seen by +travellers journeying at a little distance from the lake, might be +supposed by them to be outlets of Lake Victoria. The Nagombwa empties +into the Victoria Nile not far from Urondogani; the Zedziwa empties into +the Victoria Nile near Urondogani, and the Mwerango flows into the +Mianja, the Mianja flows into the Kafu, and the Kafu into the Victoria +Nile, somewhere in the neighbourhood of Rionga’s Island. + +At Makindo I received the Emperor’s salaams for the fifth time since +arriving in Uganda, and his walking-stick,[20] as a token that it really +was Mtesa who sent the repeated messages of welcome. By sea and by land +his messengers of welcome had met me, and each stage was supplied with +an “augmented greeting” with many manifestations of his regard. I was +well convinced, from the repeated expeditions sent by land and water to +hunt up news of me when Magassa reported me as dead, that the friendship +conceived for me by Mtesa was something more than in name. + +_August 23._—Arriving next day at Ugungu, opposite Jinja, or the Ripon +Falls, two more messengers came up breathless from the imperial camp— +which I could see covering many miles of ground—with yet an additional +welcome, and pointed out on the opposite side Mtesa and his chiefs, most +picturesque in their white dresses and red caps, with a large concourse +of attendants, waiting to see my party cross the channel. Five large +canoes were in readiness at the ferry, and also soldiers of the royal +guard to escort us through the vast crowds on the other side of the +channel. + +Far different was the scene on this day around the Falls to that which +Speke had gazed upon in 1863, and to that which I had seen five months +before when I entered this channel after a skirmish with the Wavuma. For +now the channel swarmed with large canoes, and the shores of Ugungu and +Jinja were covered with thousands of men, women, and children; while +then all was silent and lonely, and the monotonous noise of falling +waters was the only sound that was heard. + +Crossing the channel amid the noise and bustle of many thousands, we +soon found ourselves in the midst of the vast army that Mtesa had +collected from all parts of his empire. Natives of Karagwé, lean, +lank-bodied, and straight-nosed, with their deficiencies of calf made +up for by a preposterous fulness of ankle, caused by hundreds of +coils of fine iron wire, gathered round us with as much curiosity as +the ferocious Wakedi, who intruded their bodies, naked as when they +were born, among the clean-robed Waganda, reckless of the laughter +and jeering which their nudity provoked. The vain Wasoga also seemed +to forget, while they gazed on us, that they were as much objects of +curiosity to the rustic yet unabashed natives of Sessé, who stood +by them, as we were to them; for, indeed, look where I might, the +undisguised vanity of the Wasoga made them extremely conspicuous. +Though amidst such a large army of sable warriors, a solah topee, +European complexion, and boots wonderfully created of some kind of +leather, might well be deemed curiosities; yet lambskins of all +colours, stuffed with grass, and standing erect on men’s heads, and +long white-haired goat-skin for robes and loin coverings, were not a +whit less curious to the canoe-building natives of Sessé, who until now +had never, it seemed, witnessed such things. But, taking advantage of +the quiet complacency with which we permitted these warriors to gaze on +us, they began to press on us more closely than was convenient, until +they were scattered by the mighty sticks of the guards, who felled +them to right and left without remorse, and Wasoga, Wanyambu, Wakedi, +Wazongora, and Waganda were compelled to be more careful of their bones +than curious to see us. + + ---------------------------------------------------------------- + + [_To face page 236._ + +[Illustration: + + THE OUTFALL OF THE VICTORIA NYANZA: RIPON FALLS, WHICH GIVE BIRTH TO + THE VICTORIA NILE. + CAMP OF REAR GUARD ON HILL. + (_From a photograph taken by the Author, from the Usoga side._) +] + + ---------------------------------------------------------------- + +A short time afterwards, near the imperial quarters, I met the great +chiefs of Uganda with whom I had struck up an acquaintance on my first +visit, among whom I recognized tall and handsome Chambarango, the king’s +steward Kauta, Sambuzi, and lastly the Katekiro—the Premier—brilliant in +his scarlet robe, white dress, and fez, attended by a retinue almost +regal. They all expressed their satisfaction at seeing me alive and +safe, and were all anxious to hear how we had escaped from Bumbireh. + +_August 24._—The next day at the usual levee hour of Mtesa—8 A.M.—the +drums announced the levee as begun, and half an hour later the pages +came to conduct me to the presence of Mtesa. The imperial quarters +covered an area of about 200 yards square, and though but temporarily +put up, few Europeans could have constructed such commodious houses and +neat courts with such means, as the Waganda had prepared for their +sovereign. + +The gates of the outer court were thronged with representatives of many +countries, anxious to get a glimpse of the great monarch in his state; +but the guards were merciless, and with gunstock and baton rudely thrust +or beat back the intrusive nameless, and were as flint-hearted in their +office as London policemen are on a similar occasion. For me the pages +sufficed. Their presence cleared a broad road to the gate, which was +drawn widely open to allow our procession to go by. One court was +passed, and when the gate of the levee court was drawn back, a most +picturesque scene was disclosed. In the centre rose a conical hut, at +the broad doorway of which sat a silent figure; on either side were +standard-bearers and the hereditary guards, while, forming a broad +crescent in the front rank, were the chiefs and important captains of +the Empire seated on mats. In the background the bodyguards of Mtesa +stood at “shoulder arms” in double ranks; in one corner were arranged +the drummers and musicians, while scattered here and there in the open +space before the monarch stood groups of claimants and courtiers. + +As I advanced, Mtesa rose, and came to the edge of the leopard-rug, on +which his feet rested while seated, and there was even greater warmth in +this greeting than on the former occasion at Usavara. After a short +pause, Sabadu, the chief who had conducted me from Bumbireh, was called +forward to relate the incidents of our meeting, our fight with Bumbireh, +and other events of the journey, which he did with a most wonderful +minuteness of detail. He then in my name presented the captives of +Bumbireh to the king, with an intercession that he would not slay them, +but keep them in durance until their ransom was paid by Antari. Mtesa +was then informed of the purpose of my coming, which was to obtain the +guides he had promised me on my first visit, to show me the road to Muta +Nzigé; and I begged he would furnish them without much delay, as I had +already lost considerable time from his canoes having failed me. + +Mtesa replied that he was now engaged in a war with the rebellious +people of Uvuma, who insolently refused to pay their tribute, harassed +the coast of Chagwé, and abducted his people, “selling them afterwards +for a few bunches of bananas,” and that it was not customary in Uganda +to permit strangers to proceed on their journeys while the _Kabaka_ was +engaged in war, but that the war would soon be over, when, if I would +wait, he would send a chief with an army to conduct me to the Nyanza +(Muta Nzigé) by the shortest road. + +“Besides,” said he, “a small force cannot reach that lake. Kabba Rega of +Unyoro is at present at war with the whites of Kaniessa (Gondokoro), and +the people of Ankori do not admit strangers into their territory for +trade or otherwise, and all the roads to the lake run through their +countries.” + +After this intelligence I saw that I had either to renounce the project +of exploring the Albert, and proceed at once to the Tanganika—which, +after coming so far out of the way, would perhaps have been regarded in +Europe as madness—or to wait patiently until the war was over, and then +make up by forced marches for lost time. But being again assured that +the war would not last long, I resolved to stay and witness it as a +novelty, and to take advantage of the time to acquire information about +the country and its people. + +_August 27._—On the 27th of August, Mtesa struck his camp, and began the +march to Nakaranga, a point of land lying within 700 yards of the island +of Ingira, which had been chosen by the Wavuma as their depôt and +stronghold. He had collected an army numbering 150,000 warriors, as it +was expected that he would have to fight the rebellious Wasoga as well +as the Wavuma. Besides this great army must be reckoned nearly 50,000 +women, and about as many children and slaves of both sexes, so that at a +rough guess, after looking at all the camps and various tributary +nations which at Mtesa’s command had contributed their quotas, I +estimated the number of souls in Mtesa’s camp to be about 250,000! + +This large total may seem startling, but not more so to those acquainted +with the customs and population of Uganda and the nature and extent of +Mtesa’s authority, than the five millions and a quarter said to have +started with Xerxes in his invasion of Greece. I myself, though I saw +the vast area which the several camps occupied, did not believe it +possible, until one day I asked Mtesa, for the sake of satisfying my +curiosity, to permit me to make a muster-roll of his chiefs. Always +affable and willing to please white men, for whom he entertains profound +respect, he called together all his principal chiefs and officers (who +in Uganda are distinguished by the titles of Wakungu and Watongoleh), +and commanded them to bring the respective numbers of their sub-chiefs. +The following is the muster-roll of the generals and colonels made at +the time:— + + Names of Generals. Number of + Sub-chiefs or + Colonels. + + 1. Pokino, the Katekiro, Chief of Uddu, and Premier of + Uganda 6 + + 2. Chambarango, Chief of Usiro 6 + + 3. Kaeema 6 + + 4. Kitunzi, Chief of the Katonga valley 2 + + 5. Sekebobo, Chief of Chagwé 24 + + 6. Mkwenda 19 + + 7. Kasuju, guardian of the imperial family 5 + + 8. Kagu 5 + + 9. Kangau 18 + + 10. Kimbugwé 24 + + 11. Katambalé 2 + + 12. Nana Masurie, Mtesa’s mother 10 + + 13. Sabaganzi, Mtesa’s uncle 4 + + —— 131 + + Emperor’s personal bodyguard 23 + + —— + + Total 154 + +These sub-chiefs command followers numbering from 50 to 3000, and +Mtesa’s bodyguard, though claiming twenty-three Watongoleh, must not be +estimated at a less number than 3000 in the aggregate. Now, roughly +calculating the native Waganda force at 125,000, we have to add the +quotas furnished by Karagwé, Uzongora, Ukedi, Usoga, Sessé, and the +islands of the lake, Irwaji, Lulamba, Kiwa, Uziri, Kibibi, &c., also all +the Arabs and Wangwana guests who came with their guns to assist Mtesa, +and 25,000 seems to me to be a reasonable estimate of the force drawn +from these sources. + +The advance-guard had departed too early for me to see them, but, +curious to see the main body of this great army pass, I stationed myself +at an early hour at the extreme limit of the camp. + +First with his legion came Mkwenda, who guards the frontier between the +Katonga valley and Willimiesi against the Wanyoro. He is a stout, burly +young man, brave as a lion, having much experience of wars, and cunning +and adroit in their conduct, accomplished with the spear, and +possessing, besides, other excellent fighting qualities. I noticed that +the Waganda chiefs, though Muslimized, clung to their war-paints and +national charms, for each warrior, as he passed by on the trot, was most +villainously bedaubed with ochre and pipe-clay. The force under the +command of Mkwenda might be roughly numbered at 30,000 warriors and +camp-followers, and though the path yesterday was a mere goat-track, the +rush of this legion on the half-trot soon crushed out a broad avenue. + +The old general Kangau, who defends the country between Willimiesi and +the Victoria Nile, came next with his following, their banners flying, +drums beating and pipes playing, he and his warriors stripped for +action, their bodies and faces daubed with white, black, and ochreous +war-paint. + +Next came a rush of about 2000 chosen warriors, all tall men, expert +with spear and shield, lithe of body and nimble of foot, shouting as +they trotted past their war-cry of “Kavya, kavya” (the two last +syllables of Mtesa’s title when young—_Mukavya_, “king”), and rattling +their spears. Behind them at a quick march came the musket-armed +bodyguard of the Emperor, about two hundred in front, a hundred on +either side of the road, enclosing Mtesa and his _Katekiro_, and two +hundred bringing up the rear, with their drums beating, pipes playing, +and standards flying, and forming quite an imposing and warlike +procession. + + ---------------------------------------------------------------- + + [_To face page 240._ + +[Illustration: + + THE VICTORIA NILE, NORTH OF RIPON FALLS, RUSHING TOWARDS UNYORO, FROM + THE USOGA SIDE OF THE FALLS. + (_From a photograph by the Author._) +] + + ---------------------------------------------------------------- + +Mtesa marched on foot, bare-headed, and clad in a dress of blue check +cloth, with a black belt of English make round his waist, and—like the +Roman emperors, who, when returning in triumph, painted their faces a +deep vermilion—his face dyed a bright red. The _Katekiro_ preceded him, +and wore a dark grey cashmere coat, which M. de Bellefonds had given +him. I think this arrangement was made to deceive any assassin who might +be lurking in the bushes. If this was the case, the precaution seemed +wholly unnecessary, as the march was so quick that nothing but a gun +would have been effective, and the Wavuma and Wasoga have no such +weapons. + +After Mtesa’s bodyguard had passed by, chief after chief, legion after +legion, followed, each distinguished to the native ear by its different +and peculiar drum-beat. They came on at an extraordinary pace, more like +warriors hurrying up into action than on the march, and it is their +custom, I am told, to move always at a trot when on an enterprise of a +warlike nature.[21] + +About two hours after the main body began its march, Kasuju, the +guardian of the young princes and Mtesa’s women, preceded by a thousand +spears and followed by a similar number, trotted by. The women numbered +about 5000, but not more than 500 can be styled the Emperor’s +concubines; the others were for the duties of the household. + +If beautiful women of sable complexion are to be found in Africa, it +must, I thought, be in the household of such a powerful despot as Mtesa, +who has the pick of the flower of so many lands. Accordingly I looked +sharply amongst the concubines, that I might become acquainted with the +style of pure African beauty. Nor was I quite disappointed, though I had +imagined that his wives would have all been of superior personal charms. +But Mtesa apparently differs widely from Europeans in his tastes. There +were not more than twenty out of all the five hundred worthy of a glance +of admiration from a white man with any eye for style and beauty, and +certainly not more than three deserving of many glances. These three, +the most comely among the twenty beauties of Mtesa’s court, were of the +Wahuma race, no doubt from Ankori. They had the complexion of quadroons, +were straight-nosed and thin-lipped, with large lustrous eyes. In the +other graces of a beautiful form they excelled, and Hafiz might have +said with poetic rapture that they were “straight as palm-trees and +beautiful as moons.” The only drawback was their hair—the short crisp +hair of the negro race—but in all other points they might be exhibited +as the perfection of beauty which Central Africa can produce. Mtesa, +however, does not believe them to be superior, or even equal, to his +well-fleshed, unctuous-bodied, flat-nosed wives: indeed, when I pointed +them out to him one day at a private audience, he even regarded them +with a sneer. Speke, if I remember rightly, declares that fatness in +womankind is synonymous with beauty in Uganda. This may once have been +the case, but it is certainly not so now, for in few women regarded with +favour by Mtesa or his chiefs have I seen any gross corpulence of body. +Naturally, where there is abundance of good digestible food, and the +climate is agreeable, humanity of the respectable class will generally +be found to be well clothed in flesh, be it in Uganda or in England, but +it is somewhat unreasonable to state that the respectable class +therefore considers superfluous rotundity to be an element of beauty. + +After the royal harem followed Mtesa’s uncle, ancient and well-featured +Sabaganzi, whom, as regards the multitude of women that followed him, I +looked upon for a long time as a very Solomon among the Waganda, until +one day I learned that large possessions of womankind mean wealth in +Uganda, for all of them have a market value, and are saleable for wares +of any kind, be they cloth, cows, beads, or guns. Still I cannot quite +acquit the old gentleman of the imputation of gallantry, for one night, +at Nakaranga, he slew with his own hand a lover who had come to serenade +one of his numerous Dulcineas. Besides the character I have credited him +with, I must dub him as a jealous, vindictive, choleric old pagan, +despite his fine features and smooth tongue. + +Wearied with gazing on the vast multitude, which rolled by steadily +in wave after wave, a living tide of warriors, and having gained +sufficient insight into their numbers and method of travel, I left +my post of observation and struck into the line of march behind +Sabaganzi’s rear-guard, where, to say the least, I was much annoyed by +the rush of hurrying warriors, all of whom thought it necessary to push +on to the front in spite of all obstacles. The guards given to me by +Mtesa to conduct me on the road did their utmost to check the furious, +persistent impetuosity of the on-coming warriors, and used their stout +staffs with angry violence. The blows, however, were quite harmless, as +they were warded off by ample shields of wood and cane. + +Perceiving it useless to contend against such a weight of numbers and +such well-established custom, I submitted to the annoyance patiently, as +the march to Nakaranga would not occupy more than two or three days. + +At Mpani, where we camped that night, we learned that the Wavuma, soon +after our departure from Jinja, or the “Stones,” had paid a visit to it, +and set the abandoned imperial quarters and the camp on fire, besides +spearing some five or six unfortunates before the chief appointed to +guard the camp was aware of their presence. At sunset we saw the canoes +of the Wavuma, some two or three hundred in number, returning in triumph +to their island. + +_Sept. 1._—Four days afterwards, or on the 1st of September, the army of +Mtesa occupied Nakaranga, where it commenced to construct its camp, each +chief surrounded by the men of his own command in the position assigned +to him by the Katekiro. + +The legion commanded by the officers of the queen-mother occupied the +ground east of Cape Nakaranga; the chief Ankori and his fantastically +dressed Wasoga camped north of Nana Masurie’s people; to the gallant +Mkwenda with his formidable legion was assigned the entire north of the +camp; and to the redoubtable Sekebobo, when he should arrive from +Namagongo Point, was appointed the lake side, from Mkwenda to the end of +Nakaranga Cape. The imperial quarters occupied an area of 400 yards +square in the centre of the vast camp, and was jealously guarded by the +bodyguard, the legions of the Katekiro, Chambarango, and Kimbugwé, by +Kasuju with the guard of the imperial family, and the bluff, outspoken +Kitunzi, chief of the Katonga valley. + +The following rough sketch may assist the reader to understand better +the locality which at this period was of such importance to Uganda. By +sunset the army was comfortably housed in some 30,000 dome-like huts, +above which here and there rose a few of a conical shape and taller than +the rest, showing the temporary residences of the various chiefs. + +Amid all the hurry and bustle the white stranger “Stamlee” (as all the +Waganda now called me) was not forgotten. Commodious quarters were +erected and allotted to him and his boat’s crew, by express orders from +Mtesa, near the great broadway which the Katekiro constructed, leading +from the imperial quarters to the point of Cape Nakaranga. + +[Illustration] + +Anxious to see what chances Mtesa possessed of victory over his +rebellious subjects, I proceeded along the road over the mountain to a +position which commanded a clear view of Ingira Island, whither the +rebels had betaken themselves, their families, and a few herds of +cattle. Considered as being in possession of some twenty thousand +savages, whose only weapons of war were the spear and the sling, Ingira +Island presented no very formidable obstacle to a power such as the +Emperor of Uganda had amassed on this cape, only 700 yards from it. In +length it was barely a mile, and only half a mile in width from the base +of the mountain which confronted the cape to the water’s edge on the +Uvuma side. The mountain rose on all sides with rather a steep slope, +but was easy of ascent to the nimble-footed and deep-chested natives. +The Wavuma, however, were not without allies to assist them in averting +the punishment that Mtesa threatened them with, and the common danger, +as well as a common hate of the dread monarch, had drawn together, for +one strong effort to win their freedom, the inhabitants of Ugeyeya and +Utamba Islands, as well as Kitenteh—famous in the annals of Uganda for +its long but unfortunate struggle with the Emperor Suna, the father of +Mtesa. + +The people of the entire coast of Usoga from Nakaranga to Uganda had +voluntarily enlisted in the cause of Uvuma, and had despatched over 150 +large canoes fully manned to the war. The confederates, in arranging +their plan of action, had chosen Ingira Island as the rendezvous of the +united fleets of canoes. Mtesa’s plan was to capture this island, and to +cross over from Ingira to the next, and then to Uvuma, when, of course, +only immediate and complete submission would save them; and I rejoiced +that I was present, for I was in hopes that at such a period my +influence might be sufficient to avert the horrors that generally attend +victory in Africa. Though I had no reason to love the Wavuma, and for +the time was a warm ally of Mtesa, I was resolved that no massacre of +the submissive should take place while I was present. + +The redoubtable Sekebobo, commanding twenty-four Watongoleh, or +colonels, and a force of about 50,000, occupied Namagongo, and the fleet +of Mtesa was under his charge, waiting orders to cross the bay with +them. + +The Uganda war fleet numbered 325 large and small canoes, out of which +only 230 might be said to be really effective for war. One-half of these +were manned by Wasessé, natives of the large island of Sessé; the other +half by the courageous natives of the Irwaji and Lulamba Islands, by +picked men collected from the coast between Usavara and Buka Bay under +the command of Chikwata, the Vice-Admiral, by crews of Unjaku under +Vice-Admiral Jumba, and by the naval brigade of Gabunga, the Admiral of +the Fleet. + +Gabunga, though entitled to be called Grand Admiral of the Fleet, +because under his charge were placed all the canoes of Uganda, numbering +perhaps 500 altogether, must not be supposed to exercise supreme command +in action. His duty was simply to convey the orders of the fighting +general to his captains and lieutenants, for the sailors, as in England +in former times—except in desperate extremity—seldom fight. + +The fighting men of each canoe owe obedience only to their +General-in-chief; the sailors or paddlers obey Gabunga, the Grand +Admiral of the Fleet, who, again, is controlled by the General-in-chief. + +Many readers, unless detained to consider the naval force of Mtesa, +might be contented with the mere figures giving the numerical strength +of his war-vessels. But let us for the sake of curiosity calculate the +number of men required to man these 230 effective war-canoes. + +The largest canoe seen by me in this fleet measured 72 feet in length, 7 +feet 3 inches in breadth, and was four feet deep within, from keel to +gunwale. The thwarts were 32 in number, to seat 64 paddlers besides the +pilot. There were probably over 100 canoes between 50 and 70 feet in +length, and about 50 between 30 and 50 feet long; the remaining 80 +fighting-boats were of all sizes, from 18 to 30 feet long. The rest, of +the fleet consisted of small boats fit only to carry from three to six +men. + +The largest class—100 in number—would require on an average fifty men +each to man them, which would be equal in the aggregate to 5000. The +second class would require on an average forty men each, or 2000 to man +the fifty canoes. The third class would average twenty men each, and +being eighty in number, would require 1600 men to man them, the sum +total standing therefore at 8600. + +A very respectable figure for a naval force, most men would think. But +in a battle on the lake, or for such an occasion as the present, when +the resources of the empire were mustered for an important war, they +would be further required to carry a strong force to assault Ingira +Island. The canoes for the assault would therefore be crammed with +fighting men, the largest class carrying from 60 to 100 men exclusive of +their crews; so that the actual fact is that Mtesa can float a force of +from 16,000 to 20,000 on Lake Victoria for purposes of war. + +Of the spirit with which the Wavuma intended to fight the Waganda, we +had proof enough on the second day of our arrival. They dashed up close +to the shore, and back again into the lake, three or four times, before +the Waganda remembered that they had means at hand in the shape of +muskets to purge them of this bravado. As the shots were fired at the +canoes, most of the Wavuma bent their heads low and paddled their canoes +with one hand, but a few of the boldest stood up exhibiting for our +benefit their dexterity in the use of the spear, and to show how well +they could maintain their footing on the thwarts of their narrow canoes. +Their bravado was not without its effect on many of the Waganda, for I +heard several remark that the Wavuma would be hard to conquer. + +On the third morning Sekebobo, having been instructed during the night, +began to cross the bay of Nakaranga with the imperial fleet. Mtesa had +sent a messenger to inform me that the chief was about to start, and I +hastened up to the beach to witness the sight. I found that almost all +the Waganda were animated with the same curiosity, for the beach was +lined for three or four miles with dense masses of people, almost all +clad in the national brown, bark-cloth robes. + +The Wavuma meanwhile kept their eyes on Sekebobo, and from the summit of +their mountain island discerned, almost as well as if they had been told +by Mtesa, what was about to be done; and to frustrate this, if possible, +or at least to gather booty, they hastily manned 100 canoes or +thereabouts, and darted out like so many crocodiles towards Namagongo. +Before Sekebobo could arrange the fleet in order, the Wavuma were in the +middle of the bay to dispute his passage, and calmly awaiting his coming +into deep water. + +A hundred canoes against 325 was rather an unequal contest, and so the +Wavuma thought, for as the fleet of Mtesa approached in a compact, +tolerably well-arranged mass, the Wavuma opened their line to right and +left, and permitted their foe to pass them. The Waganda, encouraged +by this sign, began to cheer, but scarcely had the first sounds of +self-gratulation escaped them when the Wavuma paddles were seen to +strike the water into foam, and, lo! into the midst of the mass +from either flank the gallant islanders dashed, sending dismay and +consternation into the whole Uganda army. + +What work those desperate Wavuma might have done, I know not, but Mtesa +at the sight leaped up high, and shouted his war-cry, “Kavya, kavya!” +and the army, men, women, and children, screamed “Kavya, kavya!” and the +approaching fleet, hearing the cry, echoed it fiercely, and turned +itself on the enemy with spirit. But the Wavuma, having made fourteen +good prizes, did not wish, so unequally matched, to meet the Waganda in +a pitched fight, and accordingly hastened away—contented for the time— +into deeper water, whither, strangely enough, the Waganda fleet did not +dare to follow them. + +This short but spirited scene caused me to reflect deeply, and to ask +myself why, if the Wavuma were so courageous, I was permitted to escape +from their hands; and why one boat and a double-barreled elephant-rifle +were sufficient to release us, in our voyage of discovery, from thirteen +well-manned Wavuma canoes. Some answers to this question were derived +subsequently from observation of events. + +A pause of two or three days without incident followed the arrival of +Sekebobo’s legion and Mtesa’s fleet. Then Mtesa sent for me, and was +pleased to impart some of his ideas on the probable issue of the war to +me, in something like the following words:— + +“Stamlee, I want your advice. All white men are very clever, and appear +to know everything. I want to know from you what you think I may expect +from this war. Shall I have victory or not? It is my opinion we must be +clever, and make headwork take that island.” + +Smiling at his naïve, candid manner, I replied that it would require a +prophet to be able to foretell the issue of the war, and that I was far +from being a prophet; that headwork, were it the best in the world, +could not take Ingira Island unassisted by valour. + +He then said, “I know that the Waganda will not fight well on the water; +they are not accustomed to it. They are always victorious on land, but +when they go in canoes, they are afraid of being upset; and most of the +warriors come from the interior, and do not know now how to swim. The +Wavuma and Wasoga are very expert in the water, and swim like fish. If +we could devise some means to take the Waganda over to the island +without risking them in the canoes, I should be sure of victory.” + +I replied, “You have men, women, and children here in this camp as +numerous as grass. Command every soul able to walk to take up a stone +and cast into the water, and you will make a great difference in its +depth; but if each person carries fifty stones a day, I will warrant you +that in a few days you will walk on dry land to Ingira.” + +Mtesa at this slapped his thighs in approval, and forthwith commanded +the Katekiro to muster two legions and set them to work, and very soon +the face of the rocky mountain was covered with about 40,000 warriors, +or about a sixth of the multitude at the cape, toiling at the unusual +work of making a rocky causeway to connect Nakaranga with Ingira Island. +After they had been at work three hours, I proceeded to view the +progress they were making, and saw that they were expending their +energies in making a causeway about 100 feet wide. I told the Katekiro +that it would take a year to finish such a work, but if he would limit +the width to 10 feet, and form the people into rows, he would have the +satisfaction of setting foot on Ingira Island without danger. But though +the Premier and first lord of Uganda lost none of his politeness, and +never forgot that Mtesa, his master, was pleased to call me his friend, +I was not slow in perceiving that he would not accept friendly advice +from a stranger and a foreigner. It was not by words, or even a hint or +unfriendly gesture, that the fact was betrayed, but simply by +inattention to my advice. The most courtly European could not have +excelled the Uganda Premier. He offered in the same friendly manner a +gourdful of the honey-sweet wine of the plantain, talked sociably upon +various matters, invited verbal sketches of European life, and smiled in +an aristocratically insolent manner. Nevertheless, under this urbane +mask, I detected a proud spirit, unbending as steel. With such an +unruffled, composed, smiling patrician of Uganda, what could I do but +groan inwardly that good, brave, excellent Mtesa should be served by +such men? At the same time, I could not help smiling at the diplomatic +insouciance of this man, who indeed represented in only a too perfect +degree the character of the Waganda chiefs. + +For two days the work was carried on in the way I had described, namely, +with rocks, and then Mtesa thought that filling the passage with trees +would be a speedier method, and the Katekiro was so instructed. For +three days the Waganda were at work felling trees, and a whole forest +was levelled and carried to Nakaranga Point, where they were lashed to +one another with bark-rope, and sunk. + +On the morning of the fifth day Mtesa came down to the point to view the +causeway, and was glad to see that we were nearer by 130 yards to Ingira +Island. While viewing the island, he asked me what I thought of sending +a peace party over to ascertain the feeling of the Wavuma. I replied +that it would be a good and wise thing in Europe, but not in Central +Africa, as I feared the Wavuma would massacre the entire party. Mtesa, +however, advised by the chiefs or one of the Wagwana, persisted in the +idea, and a favourite page, named Webba, was about to be sent in a large +canoe with fifty men to open negotiations for peace with the Wavuma, +when I entreated that he would listen to me, and send a small, rotten +canoe instead. He listened to me so far as to send a canoe manned with +only fifteen men. As they were paddling on, unthinking and undreading +danger, I cried out to Mtesa, who was about twenty yards from me, “Say +farewell to Webba, for you will see little Webba no more.” + +The Katekiro and two or three of his chiefs smiled as if this was most +absurd. I felt precisely at this moment as I felt the first time I saw a +bull-fight: a cold shiver of horror crept over me. I was helpless and +unable to avert the tragedy which instinct warned me would be enacted. + +The entire Uganda army was concentrated on the slope of Nakaranga +mountain, and the eyes of the vast multitude were fastened upon this +scene; and no doubt they thought as I did, that it was a moment of +thrilling interest. The men of the Uganda canoe fleet were in their +camps, and the canoes were all beached near them. + +The peace party held on its way until near Ingira, when one of them +opened a conversation with the Wavuma, the result of which was an +invitation to take their canoe in-shore. As they paddled the canoe +gently in among the rushes that lined the island, I observed that all +the Wavuma gathered together near the place where the Waganda were +expected to land, and that several Wavuma canoes pushed out in order +that the Waganda might have no chance of escape. + +We waited only a few seconds for what was about to happen. The canoe of +the peace party had scarcely touched their island before we heard the +shrieks of the unfortunates pealing across the water, and then the +triumphant shouts of the Wavuma; and soon we saw men rushing to the +point of their island nearest the causeway, and with jeers and scoffing +they showed the bloody heads of the unfortunates to Mtesa, and tossed +them into the lake. Mtesa rose gloomy and disconcerted, and returned to +his quarters much depressed in spirits, but he gave instructions to his +Katekiro to continue the work on the causeway. + +The Katekiro, placidly obedient, instructed two chiefs, the two chiefs +instructed their Watongoleh, the Watongoleh instructed their men, and +the result of these several instructions was, that about 100 men out of +150,000 were seen lounging idly on the causeway and that was all, for +the novelty of the idea had now worn off. + +Nothing more was heard of the bridge, for Mtesa had conceived a new +idea, which was, to be instructed in the sciences of Europe. I was +to be a scientific encyclopædia to him. Not wishing to deny him, I +tried, during the afternoon of the massacre, to expound the secrets of +nature and the works of Providence, the wonders of the heavens, the +air, and the earth. We gossiped about the nature of rocks and metals, +and their many appliances, which the cunning of the Europeans had +invented to manufacture the innumerable variety of things for which +they are renowned. The dread despot sat with wide-dilated eyes and +an all-devouring attention, and, in deference to his own excitable +feelings, his chiefs affected to be as interested as himself, though I +have no doubt several ancients, such as Kangau and Sabaganzi, thought +the whole affair decidedly tedious, and the white man a “bore.” The +more polite and courtly Katekiro, Chambarango, and Kauta vied with +each other in expressing open-mouthed and large-eyed interest in this +encyclopædic talk. I drifted from mechanics to divinity, for my purpose +in this respect was not changed. During my extemporised lectures, I +happened to mention angels. On hearing the word, Mtesa screamed with +joy, and to my great astonishment the patricians of Uganda chorused, +“Ah-ah-ah!” as if they had heard an exceedingly good thing. Having +appeared so learned all the afternoon, I dared not condescend to +inquire what all this wild joy meant, but prudently waited until the +exciting cries and slapping of thighs were ended. + +The boisterous period over, Mtesa said, “Stamlee, I have always told my +chiefs that the white men know everything, and are skilful in all +things. A great many Arabs, some Turks, and four white men have visited +me, and I have examined and heard them all talk, and for wisdom and +goodness the white men excel all the others. Why do the Arabs and Turks +come to Uganda? Is it not for ivory and slaves? Why do the white men +come? They come to see this lake, our rivers and mountains. The Arabs +bring cloth, beads, and wire, to buy ivory and slaves; they also bring +powder and guns; but who made all these things the Arabs bring here for +trade? The Arabs themselves say the white men made them, and I have seen +nothing yet of all they have brought that the white men did not make. +Therefore, I say, give me the white men, because if you want knowledge, +you must talk with them to get it. Now, Stamlee, tell me and my chiefs +what you know of the angels.” + +Verily the question was a difficult one, and my answer would not have +satisfied Europeans. Remembering, however, St. Paul’s confession that he +was all things to all men, I attempted to give as vivid a description of +what angels are generally believed to be like, and as Michael Angelo and +Gustave Doré have laboured to illustrate them, and with the aid of +Ezekiel’s and Milton’s descriptions I believe I succeeded in satisfying +and astonishing the king and his court; and in order to show him that I +had authority for what I said, I sent to my camp for the Bible, and +translated to him what Ezekiel and St. John said of angels. + +This little incident, trivial as it may appear, had very interesting +results. Encyclopædic talk was forgotten in the grander and more sublime +themes which Scripture and divinity contributed. The Emperor cast +covetous eyes on the Bible and my Church of England Prayer Book, and +perceiving his wish, I introduced to him a boy named Dallington, a pupil +of the Universities Mission at Zanzibar, who could translate the Bible +into Kiswahili for him, and otherwise communicate to him what I wished +to say. + +Henceforth, during the intervals of leisure that the war gave us, we +were to be seen—the king, court, Dallington, and I—engaged in the +translation of an abstract of the Holy Scriptures. There were readers +enough of these translations, but Mtesa himself was an assiduous and +earnest student. + +Having abundance of writing-paper with me, I made a large book for him, +into which the translations were fairly copied by a writer called Idi. +When completed, Mtesa possessed an abridged Protestant Bible in +Kiswahili, embracing all the principal events from the Creation to the +Crucifixion of Christ. St. Luke’s Gospel was translated entire, as +giving a more complete history of the Saviour’s life. + +When the abridged Bible was completed, Mtesa called all his chiefs +together, as well as the officers of his guard, and when all were +assembled, he began to state that when he succeeded his father he was a +Mshensi (a heathen), and delighted in shedding blood because he knew no +better, and was only following the customs of his fathers; but that when +an Arab trader, who was also a Mwalim (priest), taught him the creed of +Islam, he had renounced the example of his fathers, and executions +became less frequent, and no man could say, since that day, that he had +seen Mtesa drunk with pombé. But there were a great many things he could +not understand, such as, why circumcision was necessary to gain +Paradise, and how it was possible that men having died could enjoy +earth’s pleasures in heaven, and how men could walk along a bridge of +the breadth of a hair, for such were some of the things the sons of +Islam taught. He could not comprehend all these things, as his sense +condemned them, and there was no one in Uganda able to enlighten him +better. But as it was in his heart to be good, he hoped God would +overlook his follies and forgive him, and send men who knew what was +right to Uganda. “Meanwhile,” said he with a smile, “I refused to be +circumcised, though the Arabs say it is the first thing that should be +done to become a true son of Islam. Now, God be thanked, a white man, +‘Stamlee,’ has come to Uganda with a book older than the Koran of +Mohammed, and Stamlee says that Mohammed was a liar, and much of his +book taken from this; and this boy and Idi have read to me all that +Stamlee has read to them from this book, and I find that it is a great +deal better than the book of Mohammed, besides, it is the first and +oldest book. The prophet Moses wrote some of it a long, long time before +Mohammed was even heard of, and the book was finished long before +Mohammed was born. As Kintu, our first king, was a long time before me, +so Moses was before Mohammed. Now I want you, my chiefs and soldiers, to +tell me what we shall do. Shall we believe in Isa (Jesus) and Musa +(Moses) or in Mohammed?” + +Chambarango replied, “Let us take that which is the best.” + +The Katekiro said, “We know not which is the best. The Arabs say their +book is the best, and the white men say their book is the best—how then +can we know which speaks the truth?” + +Kauta, the imperial steward, said, “When Mtesa became a son of Islam, he +taught me, and I became one; if my master says he taught me wrong, +having got more knowledge, he can now teach me right. I am waiting to +hear his words.” + +Mtesa smiled and said, “Kauta speaks well. If I taught him how to become +a Muslim, I did it because I believed it to be good. Chambarango says, +‘Let us take that which is best.’ True, I want that which is the best, +and I want the true book; but Katekiro asks, ‘How are we to know which +is true?’ and I will answer him. Listen to me: The Arabs and the white +men behave exactly as they are taught by their books, do they not? The +Arabs come here for ivory and slaves, and we have seen that they do not +always speak the truth, and that they buy men of their own colour, and +treat them badly, putting them in chains and beating them. The white +men, when offered slaves, refuse them, saying, ‘Shall we make our +brothers slaves? No; we are all sons of God.’ I have not heard a white +man tell a lie yet. Speke came here, behaved well, and went his way home +with his brother Grant. They bought no slaves, and the time they were in +Uganda they were very good. Stamlee came here, and he would take no +slaves. Abdul Aziz Bey (M. Linant Bellefonds) has been here, and is +gone, and he took no slaves. What Arab would have refused slaves like +these white men? Though we deal in slaves, it is no reason why it should +not be bad; and when I think that the Arabs and the white men do as they +are taught, I say that the white men are greatly superior to the Arabs, +and I think therefore that their book must be a better book than +Mohammed’s, and of all that Stamlee has read from his book I see nothing +too hard for me to believe. The book begins from the very beginning of +this world, tells us how it was made, and in how many days; gives us the +words of God Himself, and of Moses, and the prophet Solomon, and Jesus, +the son of Mary. I have listened to it all well pleased, and now I ask +you, shall we accept this book or Mohammed’s book as our guide?” + +To which question, no doubt seeing the evident bent of Mtesa’s own mind, +they all replied, “We will take the white man’s book”; and at hearing +their answer a manifest glow of pleasure lighted up the Emperor’s face. + +In this manner Mtesa renounced Islamism, and professed himself a convert +to the Christian Faith, and he now announced his determination to adhere +to his new religion, to build a church, and to do all in his power to +promote the propagation of Christian sentiments among his people, and to +conform to the best of his ability to the holy precepts contained in the +Bible. + +I, on the other hand, proud of my convert, with whom I had diligently +laboured during three months, promised that, since Dallington wished it, +I would release him from my service, that he might assist to confirm him +in his new faith, that he might read the Bible for him, and perform the +service of a Bible reader until the good people of Europe should send a +priest to baptize him and teach him the duties of the Christian +religion. + +“Stamlee,” said Mtesa to me, as we parted, nearly two months after the +massacre of the peace party, “say to the white people, when you write to +them, that I am like a man sitting in darkness, or born blind, and that +all I ask is that I may be taught how to see, and I shall continue a +Christian while I live.” + +----- + +# 19: + + So called after Colonel James Augustus Grant, the amiable and + chivalrous companion of Speke. + +# 20: + + This custom of sending walking-sticks also obtains in Dahomey. + +# 21: + + The war-cries of the Waganda begin by shouting the full title of their + respective chiefs, and end with the last syllables, thus:— + + “Mukavya, kavya, kavya!” + “Chamburango, ango, ango!” + “Mkwenda, kwenda, kwenda!” + “Sekibobo, bobo, bobo!” + “Kitunzi, tunzi, tunzi!” + + This perhaps explains why Speke spelt _thanks_ “N’yanzig,” for Waganda + return thanks by first saying, “Twiyanzi-yanzi-yanzi,” and this, when + repeated rapidly, sounds like “N’yanzig.” + + + + + CHAPTER XIII. + +The war-drum beaten—The wizards play their part—In full war-paint— + Bullets against spears—The Wavuma baulked—Mtesa’s fury—Victory or the + stake!—Hard fighting—The captive chief: a struggle between the pagan + and the Christian—A floating mystery—“Return, O spirit! the war is + ended!”—The camp on fire: a race for life. + + +_Sept. 14._—On the 14th of September the Emperor of Uganda decided to +give battle to the Wavuma, who were daily becoming bolder and more +boastful. In the morning, in accordance with Mtesa’s orders, forty +Waganda canoes sallied out from the beach in front of our camps to +Nakaranga Point, where they formed in line of battle before the +causeway, with the sterns of their canoes fronting Ingira, and their +bows towards Nakaranga Point. + +Mtesa was followed by about three-fourths of his army when he proceeded +to the point to view the battle, and with him went the great war-drums, +to the number of fifty or thereabouts, and fifes about a hundred, and a +great number of men shaking gourds filled with pebbles, and the court +criers and mad charmers against evil were not wanting to create din and +noise, and celebrate victory. + +A hut of ample size had been erected on the mountain slope overlooking +the strait, into which Mtesa and his favourite women retired. When the +Emperor was seated, the “prophets of Baal,” or the priests or +priestesses of the Muzimu, or witchcraft, came up, more than a hundred +in number, and offered the charms to Mtesa one after another in a most +tedious, ceremonious way, and to all of them Mtesa condescended to point +his imperial forefinger. + +The chief priest was a most fantastically dressed madman. It is +customary before commencing a battle to carry all the potent medicines +or charms of Uganda (thus propitiating the dreadful Muzimu or evil +spirits) to the monarch, that he may touch or point his forefinger at +them. They consist of dead lizards, bits of wood, hide, nails of dead +people, claws of animals, and beaks of birds, a hideous miscellany, with +mysterious compounds of herbs and leaves carefully enclosed in vessels +ornamented with vari-coloured beads. + +During the battle these wizards and witches chant their incantations, +and exhibit their medicines on high before the foe, while the +gourd-and-pebble bearers sound a hideous alarum, enough to cause the +nerves of any man except an African to relax at once. + +Mtesa and his army were in full war-paint, and the principal men wore +splendid leopard skins over their backs, but the Wasoga bore the palm +for splendour of dress and ornate equipments. + +Ankori the chief and his officers were wonderfully gay. Snow-white +ostrich plumes decorated their heads, and lion and leopard skins covered +their backs, while their loins were girded with snow-white, long-haired +monkey and goat skins; even the staves of their lances were ornamented +with feathers and rings of white monkey skin. + +There was ample time afforded to observe all these things, and to be +exceedingly amused and interested in what promised to be an animating +scene, before all attention was drawn to and engaged by the battle. The +spectators were seated, safe from harm or danger, on the slope of +Nakaranga mountain, from the water’s edge to the mountain summit, tier +above tier, and rank above rank, in thousands upon thousands. + +The canoes, having formed line, slowly moved sternwise towards Ingira. +The Wavuma were not inactive spectators of this manœuvre, but as yet +their warriors had not embarked. They were busy mustering, while those +appointed to garrison the island, with the women and children, several +thousands in number, sate down on the slopes of the opposite mountain of +Ingira Island. The rushes and weeds lining the water’s edge were too +tall and thick to enable us to estimate exactly the number of the +enemy’s war-canoes, but the brown-coloured prows, long and curving, of a +great many were seen thrust out from among the vivid green banana +plantations, or arranged on the rising beach of the island beyond its +reedy margin. + +Having advanced with the utmost regularity of line, near enough to the +island to make their “Brown Bess” muskets effective, the Waganda began +to open fire in a steady, deliberate manner, and succeeded after a while +in annoying the foe and arousing him to action. At a given signal from +their chiefs, forth from the reeds and rushes shot the prows of the +Wavuma canoes; and then, giving utterance to most shrill war-cries, the +rowers impelled them from all quarters, to the number of 194, with an +extraordinary velocity upon the Waganda line, which now began to retire +slowly towards the causeway. + +On the causeway at its farthest extremity were assembled a force of a +hundred musketeers and four small boat howitzers under the command of +the Katekiro and Mtesa’s factotum Tori. + +The furious advance of the Wavuma soon caused the Waganda to hurry their +movements, and on approaching the causeway they parted their line, +rushing on either side of it, giving the Katekiro and Tori ample +opportunity to wreak their will on the pursuers. But owing to the want +of skill of the cannoniers, and the nervousness of the musketeers, very +little damage was inflicted on the Wavuma, but the noise and whirring of +lead and iron sufficed to check them, and caused them to withdraw with +much of the baffled aspect of hungry crocodiles cheated of their prey. +This was all the battle—but, short as it was, it had sufficed to prove +to me that Mtesa would be unable to take Ingira Island, garrisoned and +defended as it was by such a determined foe. After a while Mtesa +withdrew from the scene, the army returned to its quarters, and the +canoes of the Waganda, closely hugging the Nakaranga shore, went back to +their rendezvous, leaving the Wavuma masters of the situation. + +During the afternoon of this day Mtesa held a grand levee, and when all +were assembled, he addressed them publicly to the effect that in a few +days another battle would be fought, but as he had heard very important +news, he intended to wait a while to ascertain if it was true. + +Work progressed but languidly at the causeway. It was very tedious +waiting, but my time was principally occupied in teaching Mtesa and his +principal chiefs, and in gleaning such information as might enable me to +understand the complicated politics of the empire. + +_Sept. 18._—Suddenly on the 18th of September, at early dawn, orders +were communicated to the chiefs to prepare for battle. The first +intelligence of it that I received was from the huge war-drums which +summoned both sailors and warriors to action. + +But first a burzah, or council, was held. Though eager to learn the +news, I dared not appear too much interested in the war. Sabadu, who +would be present on guard, would be sure to relate to me all the details +of whatever transpired. + +At night, though I interpolate it here for the benefit of the narrative, +gossipy Sabadu, whose retentive brain I knew I could trust, conveyed to +me a faithful report of the proceedings; and I cannot do better than +give it to the reader in Sabadu’s language. + +“Ah! master, you have missed a sight. I never saw Mtesa as he was +to-day. Oh, it was awful! His eyes were as large as my fists. They +jumped from their sockets, and they were glowing as fire. Didn’t the +chiefs tremble! They were as children, whimpering and crying for +forgiveness. He said to them, ‘Wherein have I been unkind to you, that +you will not fight for me, for my slaves who were sent to Usoga have +returned saying there was not a man but either had joined me or had +already joined the Wavuma? Who gave you those clothes that you wear? +Who gave you those guns that you have? Was it not I? Did Suna my father +give his chiefs such fine things as I give? No; yet they fought for +him, and the boldest of them would not have dared to advise him to fly, +as you have done me. Am I not _Kabaka_? Is this not Uganda, as well +as my capital? Have I not my army here? And you, Katekiro, were you +not a peasant before I dressed you and set you up as a chief of Uddu? +And you, Chambarango, who made you a chief? And you, Mkwenda, and you, +Sekebobo, and you, Kimbugwé, Kitunzi, Kaeema, Kangau, Kagu, speak, was +it not Mtesa who made you chiefs? Were you princes, that you came to be +made chiefs, or peasants whom it was my pleasure to make chiefs? Ah, +ha! I shall see to-day who will not fight; I will see to-day who dares +to run away from the Wavuma. By the grave of my father, I will burn the +man over a slow fire who runs away or turns his back, and the peasant +who distinguishes himself to-day shall eat his land. Look out for +yourselves, chiefs. I will sit down to-day and watch for the coward, +and the coward I will burn. I swear it.’ Instantly the Katekiro fell on +his face to the earth, and cried, ‘Kabaka’ (emperor), ‘send me to-day +to fight, watch my flag, and if I turn my back to the Wavuma, then take +and burn me or cut me to little pieces.’ The example of the Katekiro +was followed by the other chiefs, and they all swore to be desperately +brave.” + +About 8.30 A.M., while I was at the point of Nakaranga, the sound of +drums approached me, and I knew that the council was ended, and that the +battle would soon begin. Mtesa appeared anything but a Christian, +judging from his looks. Fires of fury shot from his eyes; and pages, +women, chiefs, and all seemed awe-stricken. I was then ignorant of what +had taken place, but when I observed the absence of Chambarango, and +several of the great Wakungu, or generals, I felt assured that Mtesa had +lately been in the midst of a scene. + +Presently other drums sounded from the water-side, and soon the +beautiful canoes of Uganda appeared in view. The entire war-fleet of 230 +vessels rode gracefully on the calm grey waters of the channel. + +The line of battle, I observed, was formed by Chambarango, in command of +the right flank, with fifty canoes; Sambuzi, Mukavya, Chikwata, and +Saruti, all sub-chiefs, were ranged with 100 canoes under the command of +Kauta, the imperial steward, to form the centre; the left flank was in +charge of the gallant Mkwenda, who had eighty canoes. Tori commanded a +force of musketeers, and with his four howitzers was stationed on the +causeway, which was by this time 200 yards from the shore. + +In the above manner the fleet of vessels, containing some 16,000 men, +moved to the attack upon Ingira. The centre, defended by the flanks, +which were to menace the rear of the Wavuma should they approach near +the causeway, resolutely advanced to within thirty yards of Ingira, and +poured in a most murderous fire among the slingers of the island, who, +imagining that the Waganda meant to carry the island by storm, boldly +stood exposed, resolved to fight. But they were unable to maintain that +courageous behaviour long. Mkwenda then moved up from the left, and +attacked with his musketeers the Wavuma on the right, riddling their +canoes, and making matters specially hot for them in that quarter. + + ---------------------------------------------------------------- + + [_To face page 260._ + +[Illustration: ONE OF THE GREAT NAVAL BATTLES BETWEEN THE WAGANDA AND +THE WAVUMA, IN THE CHANNEL BETWEEN INGIRA ISLAND AND CAPE NAKARANGA.] + + ---------------------------------------------------------------- + +The Wavuma, seeing matters approaching a crisis, and not wishing to die +tamely, manned their canoes, and 196 dashed impetuously, as at first, +from the rushes of Ingira with loud shrill yells, and the Waganda lines +moved backward to the centre of the channel, where they bravely and +coolly maintained their position. As the centre of the Uganda line +parted in front of the causeway and disclosed the hotly advancing enemy, +Tori aimed the howitzers and fired at a group of about twenty canoes, +completely shattering more than half of them, and reloading quickly, he +discharged several bolts of iron three inches long among them with +terrible effect. Before this cool bearing of the Waganda, the Wavuma +retired to their island again, and we saw numbers of canoes discharging +their dead and wounded, and the Waganda were summoned to Nakaranga shore +to receive the congratulations of the Emperor and the applause of the +vast multitude. Mtesa went down to the water’s edge to express his +satisfaction at their behaviour. + +“Go at them again,” said he, “and show them what fighting is.” And the +line of battle was again formed, and again the Wavuma darted from the +cover of the reeds and water-cane, with the swiftness of hungry sharks; +beating the water into foam with their paddles, and rending the air with +their piercing yells. It was one of the most exciting and animating +scenes I ever beheld; but, owing to the terror of the stake with which +their dread monarch had threatened them, the Waganda distinguished +themselves for coolness and method, and the Wavuma, as on a former +occasion, for intrepidity and desperate courage. + +A third time the Waganda were urged to the battle, and a third time the +unconquerable and desperate enemy dashed on them, to be smitten and +wounded sore in a battle where they had not the least chance of +returning blow for blow without danger of being swept by the cannon and +muskets on the causeway. + +A third battle was fought a few days after between 178 Wavuma canoes and +122 Waganda; but had the Waganda possessed the spirit and dash of their +enemies, they might have decided the war on this day, for the Wavuma +were greatly dispirited. + +A fourth battle was fought the next day by 214 Waganda canoes and 203 +Wavuma canoes, after the usual delay and premonitory provocation. The +Wavuma obtained the victory most signally, chasing the Waganda within 40 +yards of Nakaranga Cape, and being only driven from their prey by the +musketeers and the howitzers on the causeway, which inflicted great +execution on them at such close quarters. The Waganda did not attempt a +second trial this day, for they were disorganized and dispirited after +the signal defeat they had experienced. + +The fleet of the Waganda returned to their rendezvous with the jeers and +scoffs of the intrepid Wavuma ringing in their ears. On enquiring into +the cause of the disaster, I learned that Mtesa’s gunpowder was almost +exhausted, and that he had scarcely a round left for each musket. This +fact alarmed him, and compelled him to request me to lend him my powder +in the camp at Dumo, which was refused in such a decided tone that he +never repeated the request. + +_Oct. 5._—It was now the 5th of October, and I had left my camp on the +12th of August. It was necessary that I should participate in some +manner in the war and end it. Yet I scarcely knew how I should act +effectively to produce results beneficial to all parties. For though my +own interests and the welfare of the Expedition were involved and in a +manner staked on the success of the Waganda, and though a passive +partisan of Mtesa, yet the brave Wavuma, by their magnificent daring and +superb courage, had challenged my fullest sympathies. My energies and +thoughts were bent, therefore, upon discovering a solution of the +problem how to injure none, yet satisfy all. + +It was clear that the Wavuma would not surrender without a frightful +waste of life; it was equally evident that Mtesa would not relax his +hold upon them without some compensation or satisfaction, nor assist me +in my projects of exploration unless I aided him in some manner. + +At length I devised a plan which I thought would succeed; but before I +was enabled to perfect my scheme an incident occurred which called for +my immediate intervention. + +Mtesa, by means of his scouts, had succeeded in capturing one of the +principal chiefs of the Wavuma, and his Wakungu and principal strangers +had been invited to be present to witness the execution of this chief at +the stake. + +When I arrived at the scene, a large quantity of faggots had already +been collected to burn him. By this mode of punishment, Mtesa thought he +would be able to strike terror into the souls of the Wavuma. + +Mtesa was in high glee when I entered the council: he was unable to hide +the triumph he felt at the terrible vengeance he was about to take for +the massacre of Webba, his favourite page, and the peace party. + +“Now, Stamlee,” he said, “when the chief is at the stake,”—he was an old +man of sixty or thereabouts—“you shall see how a chief of Uvuma dies. He +is about to be burnt. The Wavuma will tremble when they hear of the +manner of his death.” + +“Ah, Mtesa,” I said, “have you forgotten the words of the good book +which I have read to you so often? ‘If thy brother offend thee, thou +shalt forgive him many times.’ ‘Love thy enemies.’ ‘Do good to them that +hate you.’ ‘Thou shalt love thy neighbour as thyself.’ ‘Forgive us our +trespasses, as we forgive them that trespass against us.’” + +“But this man is a native of Uvuma, and the Wavuma are at war with me. +Have you forgotten Webba?” + +“No, I remember poor little Webba. I saw him die, and I was very sorry.” + +“Shall this man not die, Stamlee? Shall I not have blood for him, +Stamlee?” + +“No.” + +“But I shall, Stamlee. I will burn this man to ashes. I will burn every +soul I catch. I will have blood! blood! the blood of all in Uvuma.” + +“No, Mtesa! no more blood. It is time the war was ended.” + +“What!” said Mtesa, bursting into one of those paroxysms of fury which +Sabadu had so graphically described. “I will slay every soul in Uvuma, +will cut down every plantain, and burn every man, woman, and child on +that island. By the grave of my father Suna, I will.” + +“No, Mtesa, you must stop this wild pagan way of thinking. It is only a +pagan who always dreams of blood and talks of shedding blood as you do. +It is only the pagan boy Mtesa who speaks now. It is not the man Mtesa +whom I saw, and whom I made a friend. It is not ‘Mtesa the Good,’ whom +you said your people loved. It is not Mtesa the Christian, it is the +savage. Bah! I have had enough of you, I know you now.” + +“Stamlee! Stamlee! Wait a short time, and you will see. What are you +waiting for?” he said, suddenly turning round to the executioners, who +were watching his looks. + +Instantly the poor old man was bound; but, suddenly rising, I said to +Mtesa, “Listen to one word. The white man speaks but once. Listen to me +for the last time. You remember the tale of Kintu which you told me the +other day. He left the land of Uganda because it stank with blood. As +Kintu left Uganda in the old, old days, I shall leave it, never to +return. To-day Kintu is looking down upon you from the spirit-land, and +as he rebuked Ma’anda for murdering his faithful servant, so is he +rebuking you to-day through me. Yes, kill that poor old man, and I shall +leave you to-day, unless you kill me too, and from Zanzibar to Cairo I +shall tell every Arab I meet what a murderous beast you are, and through +all the white man’s land I shall tell with a loud voice what wicked act +I saw Mtesa do, and how the other day he wanted to run away because he +heard a silly old woman say the Wasoga were marching upon him. How grand +old Kamanya must have wept in the spirit-land when he heard of Mtesa +about to run away. How the lion-hearted Suna must have groaned when he +saw Mtesa shiver in terror because an old woman had had a bad dream. +Good-bye, Mtesa. You may kill the Mvuma chief, but I am going, and shall +not see it.” + +Mtesa’s face had been a picture wherein the passions of brutish fury and +thirsty murder were portrayed most faithfully; but at the mention of +Suna and Kamanya in the spirit-land looking down upon him, the tears +began to well in his eyes, and finally, while they rolled in large drops +down his face, he sobbed loudly like a child, while the chiefs and +executioners, maintaining a deathly silence, looked very uncomfortable. +Tori the cannonier and Kauta the steward, however, sprang up, and, +unrolling their head-dresses, officiously wiped Mtesa’s face, while the +poor wayward man murmured audibly as I walked away from the scene:— + +“Did not Stamlee talk about the spirit-land, and say that Suna was angry +with me? Oh, he speaks too true, too true! Oh father, forgive me, +forgive me.” After which, I was told he suddenly broke away from the +council. + +An hour afterwards I was summoned by a page to his presence, and Mtesa +said:— + +“Stamlee will not say Mtesa is bad now, for he has forgiven the Mvuma +chief, and will not hurt him. Will Stamlee say that Mtesa is good now? +And does he think Suna is glad now?” + +“Mtesa is very good,” and I clasped his hand warmly. “Be patient, all +shall come out right, and Kintu and Suna must be glad when they see that +Mtesa is kind to his guests. I have something to tell you. I have +thought over your trouble here, and I want to finish this war for your +good without any more trouble. I will build a structure which shall +terrify the Wavuma, and make them glad of a peace, but you must give me +plenty of men to help me, and in three days I shall be ready. Meantime +shout out to the Wavuma from the causeway that you have something which +will be so terrible that it will finish the war at once.” + +“Take everybody, do anything you like; I will give you Sekebobo and all +his men.” + +_Oct. 6._—The next morning Sekebobo brought about 2000 men before my +quarters, and requested to know my will. I told him to despatch 1000 men +to cut long poles 1 inch thick, 300 to cut poles 3 inches thick and 7 +feet long, 100 to cut straight long trees 4 inches thick, and 100 to +disbark all these, and make bark rope. Himself and 500 men I wished to +assist me at the beach. The chief communicated my instructions and urged +them to be speedy, as it was the Emperor’s command, and himself +accompanied me to the canoe fleet. + +[Illustration: THE FLOATING FORTLET MOVING TOWARDS INGIRA.] + +I selected three of the strongest-built canoes, each 70 feet long and 6½ +feet wide, and, after preparing a space of ground near the water’s edge, +had them drawn up parallel with one another, and 4 feet apart from each +other. With these three canoes I began to construct a floating platform, +laying the tall trees across the canoes, and lashing them firmly to the +thwarts, and as fast as the 7-foot poles came, I had them lashed in an +upright position to the thwarts of the outer canoes, and as fast as the +inch poles arrived, I had them twisted in among these uprights, so that, +when completed, it resembled an oblong stockade, 70 feet long by 27 feet +wide, which the spears of the enemy could not penetrate. + +_Oct. 7._—On the afternoon of the second day, the floating fort was +finished, and Mtesa and his chiefs came down to the beach to see it +launched and navigated for a trial trip. The chiefs, when they saw it, +began to say it would sink, and communicated their fears to Mtesa, who +half believed them. But the Emperor’s women said to him: “Leave Stamlee +alone; he would not make such a thing if he did not know that it would +float.” + +_Oct. 8._—On receiving orders to launch it, I selected sixty paddlers +and 150 musketeers of the bodyguard to stand by to embark as soon as it +should be afloat, and appointed Tori and one of my own best men to +superintend its navigation, and told them to close the gate of the fort +as soon as they pushed off from the land. About 1000 men were then set +to work to launch it, and soon it was floating in the water, and when +the crew and garrison, 214 souls, were in it, it was evident to all that +it rode the waves of the lake easily and safely— + + “The invention all admired, and each how he + To be the inventor missed, so easy it seemed + Once found, which yet unfound most would have thought + Impossible”— + +and a burst of applause from the army rewarded the inventor. + +Several long blue Kaniki and white and red cloths were hoisted above +this curious structure, which, when closed up all round, appeared to +move of its own accord in a very mysterious manner, and to conceal +within its silent and impenetrable walls some dread thing, well +calculated to strike terror into the mind of the ignorant savage. + +_Oct. 13._—At eight o’clock on the morning of the 13th of October the +army was assembled at Nakaranga with unusual display, and it was +proclaimed across the strait from the extremity of the causeway that a +terrible thing was approaching which would blow them into atoms if they +did not make peace at once and acknowledge the power of Mtesa; and I +believe that they declared that all the Muzimus and the charms of Uganda +were within, for I heard something said about Muzimu and Uganda. The old +Mvuma chief was also placed in prominent view, and induced to urge them +to accept the terms which Mtesa offered, viz. pardon to all, provided +they went through the form of submission. After this announcement, which +was made with all gravity, the awful mysterious structure appeared, +while the drums beat a tremendous sound, and the multitude of horns blew +a deafening blast. + +It was a moment of anxiety to me, for manifold reasons. The fort, +perfectly defensible in itself against the most furious assaults by men +armed with spears, steadily approached the point, then steered direct +for the island of Ingira, until it was within fifty yards. + +“Speak,” said a stentorian voice amid a deathly silence within. “What +will you do? Will you make peace and submit to Mtesa, or shall we blow +up the island? Be quick and answer.” + +There was a moment’s consultation among the awe-stricken Wavuma. +Immediate decision was imperative. The structure was vast, totally +unlike anything that was ever visible on the waters of their sea. There +was no person visible, yet a voice spoke clear and loud. Was it a +spirit, the Wazimu of all Uganda, more propitious to their enemy’s +prayers than those of the Wavuma? It might contain some devilish, awful +thing, something similar to the evil spirits which in their hours of +melancholy and gloom their imagination invoked. There was an audacity +and confidence in its movements that was perfectly appalling. + +“Speak,” repeated the stern voice; “we cannot wait longer.” + +Immediately, to our relief, a man, evidently a chief, answered, “Enough, +let Mtesa be satisfied. We will collect the tribute to-day, and will +come to Mtesa. Return, O spirit, the war is ended!” At which the +mysterious structure solemnly began its return back to the cove where it +had been constructed, and the quarter of a million of savage human +beings, spectators of the extraordinary scene, gave a shout that seemed +to split the very sky, and Ingira’s bold height repeated the shock of +sound back to Nakaranga. + +Three hours afterwards a canoe came from Ingira Island, bearing fifty +men, some of whom were chiefs. They brought with them several tusks of +ivory, and two young girls, daughters of the two principal chiefs of +Uvuma. These were the tribute. The ivory was delivered over to the +charge of the steward, and the young girls were admitted to the harem of +Mtesa, into the mystery of which no man dare penetrate and live. The old +Mvuma chief was surrendered to his tribe, and thus the long war +terminated on the evening of the 13th of October, 1875. + +Glad shouts from both sides announced all parties equally pleased. The +same afternoon the canoe fleet of Uganda, which had by this time been +reduced to 275 in number, was escorted as far as Jinja by twenty Wavuma +canoes, and after it had departed and rounded Namagongo Point, releasing +their late foe from all fear of treachery, the Wavuma canoes presented +us with a peaceful exhibition of their dexterity, and gave us an +opportunity of viewing them more distinctly than we had previously been +able to do through the smoke of gunpowder. + +_Oct. 15._—We set out next morning, the 15th of October, at three +o’clock. We were wakened by the tremendous “Jojussu,” the great king of +war-drums. Instantly we began to pack up, but I was scarcely dressed +before my people rushed up to me, crying that the immense camp was fired +in a hundred different places. I rushed out of my hut, and was astounded +to see that the flames devoured the grass huts so fast that, unless we +instantly departed, we should be burnt along with them. Hastily +snatching my pistols, I bade the Wangwana shoulder the goods and follow +me as they valued their lives. + +The great road from Mtesa’s quarters to Nakaranga Point, though 100 feet +wide, was rendered impassable by furious, overlapping waves of fire. +There was only one way left, which was up the slope of Nakaranga +mountain, and through the camp of the Wasoga. We were not alone in the +attempt to escape by this way, for about 60,000 human beings had sought +the same path, and were wedged into an almost solid mass, so great was +the danger and the anxiety to be away from the cruel sea of fire below. + +It was a grand scene, but a truly terrible one; and I thought, as I +looked down on it, that the Waganda were now avenging the dead Wavuma +with their own hands, for out of a quarter of a million human beings +there must have been an immense number of sick unable to move. Besides +these, what numbers of witless women and little ones having lost +presence of mind must have perished; and how many must have been +trampled down by the rush of such a vast number to escape the +conflagration! The wide-leaping, far-reaching tongues of flame +voraciously eating the dry, tindery material of the huts, and blown by a +strong breeze from the lake, almost took my breath away, and several +times I felt as if my very vitals were being scorched; but with heads +bent low we charged on blindly, knowing no guide save the instinct of +self-preservation. + + ---------------------------------------------------------------- + + [_To face page 268._ + +[Illustration: THE NAPOLEON CHANNEL, LAKE VICTORIA, FROM THE HEIGHTS +ABOVE THE RIPON FALLS. FLOTILLA OF THE EMPEROR OF UGANDA CROSSING FROM +USOGA TO UGANDA.] + + (_From a photograph by the Author._) + + ---------------------------------------------------------------- + +As soon as an opportunity permitted, I looked after the laggards of my +party, and by dint of severity kept them together, but three or four +were more than half inclined to give in before we breathed cooler air, +and could congratulate ourselves upon our safety. + +Indignant at such a murderous course, for I mentally taxed Mtesa with +this criminal folly, I marched my party far from the route of the +Waganda army, and though repeatedly urged by Mtesa to attach myself to +his party, I declined to do so until he should explain to me why he had +commanded the camp to be fired without giving warning to his people or +to myself, his guest. His messenger at once acquitted him of such gross +recklessness, and declared that he had arrested several persons +suspected of having fired the camp, and that he himself had suffered the +loss of goods and women in the flames. I thereupon, glad that he was not +the author of the catastrophe, sent my salaams, and a promise to rejoin +him at Ugungu, on the Uganda side of the Ripon Falls, which I did on the +18th of October. + +[Illustration: + + FISH FOUND IN LAKE VICTORIA. + + Sama-Moa, in the Nyassa tongue; round, open-mouthed, scaled, and + pig-headed-looking creature, 20 inches long. +] + + + + + CHAPTER XIV. + +The Legend of the Blameless Priest—The heroes of Uganda—Chwa—Kimera, the + giant—Nakivingi—Kibaga, the flying warrior—Ma’anda—Wakinguru, the + champion—Kamanya, the conqueror of the Wakedi—Suna, the cruel—His + massacre of the Wasoga—Namujurilwa, the Achilles of Uganda—Setuba and + his lions—Kasindula the hero, peasant, and premier—Mtesa the mild-eyed. + + +Having arrived safely in Uganda, through most extraordinary and novel +scenes, I may be permitted to leave the direct narrative of our travels +and our life in Uganda in order to inform the reader on certain points +of the history of Mtesa’s country, beginning with Kintu, Priest, +Patriarch, and first King of Uganda. + +Whatever of the incredible or marvellous may be discovered by the +learned critic in this chapter must not be debited against the author, +but against Sabadu and the elders who are responsible for the tale of +Kintu, the wars of Kamanya, Suna, and Mtesa, and the feats of +Namujurilwa, Setuba, and Kasindula the heroes, while Mtesa himself +furnished me with the names of the kings his forefathers, with many +other facts contained in this chapter. + +For my part I regret only that want of space compels me to compress what +I have gathered of the history of this interesting country into a few +pages, but brief as it is, I venture to believe that it will not be +without interest to a large class of readers. + +Uganda, then, was first peopled by immigrants from the north, about the +thirteenth or fourteenth century. But the date at which I thus fix the +arrival of the patriarch Kintu may be wrong; he may have arrived at a +much earlier period, and the names of a large number of his successors +may have sunk into oblivion. + +Tradition, as well as it has been able, has faithfully preserved the +memory of the acts of the first of these immigrants, though it has +contemptuously omitted the acts of his successors, and, as usual, has +contrived to endow its favourites, here as elsewhere, with marvellous +power and extraordinary attributes. + +Kintu, the first immigrant and the founder of Uganda, came from the +north, and perhaps derived his descent from some African Arab or +ancient Ethiopic family. He was a mild, humane, and blameless man, and +from his character was probably a priest of some old and long forgotten +order. He brought with him one wife, one cow, one goat, one sheep, +one banana-root, and a sweet potato; and, journeying in search of a +suitable land to dwell in, established himself finally on the western +bank of the Mwerango river, at Magonga,[22] near the present frontier +of Unyoro. He found the country uninhabited, for not a single soul then +dwelt in all the land lying between the lakes Victoria and Albert and +Muta Nzigé. Usoga was a wilderness, Ukedi a desolate plain, and the +fertile valleys of Unyoro were unpeopled. + +The priest Kintu was alone in his kingdom. But these countries were not +destined to remain desolate long, for his wife was remarkably prolific. +She brought forth four children at a birth each year, and each male +issued into the world with an incipient beard and the powers of lusty +prime youth; and the female children at two years of age bore children, +who at an equally early age conceived and bore sons and daughters, until +the land began to be fully peopled, the forests to be cut down, the land +to be cultivated, and planted with bananas and corn. + +The single cow, goat, sheep, and chicken increased after their kind by +some extraordinary manner, until they grew so numerous that each of the +offspring of Kintu soon possessed large herds of cattle, and flocks of +sheep and goats, and numerous chickens. The banana-root also, once +planted in the soil of Uganda by the holy hands of Kintu, sprang up +almost instantly into a stalk of vast girth, from the top of which hung +pendent such a cluster of fruit as is not seen in Uganda nowadays, and +the root spread itself over a large area, from which hundreds of bananas +shot upward with great stalks and all the leafy luxuriance of a large +plantation. The potato-plant also vied with the banana, for so great was +its vitality that it appeared to crawl over the ground so fast was its +growth. + +When his offspring had grown so numerous that they crowded Magonga, +Kintu cut portions of the original banana-root and potato-plant and gave +to each family a portion, and having taught them how “to sow the glebe +and plant the generous vine,” bade them seek each a home, and establish +themselves in the land round about him. Those who received the banana +established their home south of Magonga, while those who received the +sweet potato-plant migrated to the north of Magonga, and dwelt in the +valleys of Unyoro. Hence it is that to this day the people of Uganda, +south, and all about Magonga, prefer the banana for food, while the +people of Wanyoro have such a predilection for sweet potatoes. + +Being a priest, Kintu entertained a special aversion to the shedding of +blood, whether of man, animal, bird, or insect, but he did not instruct +his offspring to abstain from shedding the blood of beasts. If any +animal was to be slain for food, it was ordained that it should be taken +far from the neighbourhood of his house, and if a man was to be executed +for murder, the executioner dare not slay his victim near Kintu or his +house or his garden, neither might the man of blood at any time approach +the patriarch’s person. If the culprit on his way to execution could +contrive to make his way to Kintu’s presence and touch his feet or his +garments, or were the patriarch even to cast his eyes on him, his life +was safe. + +When the good patriarch became old, his children forgot to follow his +pious example, for from the banana they had discovered the art of making +wine and strong drinks, with which they debauched themselves, and, being +daily intoxicated, committed indecencies, became violent in language, +reckless and hardened in impiety, and, worse than all, so rebellious as +to threaten to depose and kill him. Kintu bore this conduct in his +unloving children with meekness and sorrow for a long time, but warned +them that their impiety and violence would be punished some day; but +they heeded him not, for the wine had maddened them. + +After a time, finding his admonitions of no avail, he said to his wife, +“See my sons whom I brought into this world have become wicked and hard +of heart, and they threaten to drive their father away or kill him, for +they say I am become old and useless. I am like a hateful stranger +amongst my own children. They shed the blood of their brothers daily, +and there is nothing but killing and bloodshed now, until I am sick of +blood. It is time for us to get away and depart elsewhere. Come, let us +go.” And in the night Kintu and his wife departed, taking with them +their original cow, goat, sheep, chicken, a banana-root, and a sweet +potato-plant. + +In the morning it became known that their father Kintu was not in his +house, nor to be found anywhere, that he had left the country with all +the things which he had brought thither when he first arrived. Then all +were filled with sorrow, and great lamentation was made throughout the +land. + +After three days, during which search was instituted far and wide for +the lost patriarch, Chwa, the eldest son, took his spear and shield in +his hand and said, “I am the first-born, and it is my right to sit in +the place of my father. Now you, my brothers, be good and beware of my +spear”; and Chwa being strong, his brothers feared him, and paid homage +to him as their king. + +Chwa did not abandon the search for his father, though he had attained +the regal power. He seems to have cherished a hope that in some distant +country his father would be discovered, whither he might be able to +proceed to him and ask his forgiveness. + +A rumour sometimes reached Chwa that his father had been seen, but none +of his several messengers succeeded in seeing him, and he at last died +without the hope being gratified. + +Chwa was succeeded by his son Kamiera, a name to this day retained by +the members of the imperial family. Like his father Chwa, Kamiera +searched for the patriarch Kintu until his own death, without success. + +Kamiera was succeeded by his gigantic son Kimera, who distinguished +himself as a hunter. He first introduced dogs for the chase, and was so +fond of them that he always led one by the cord wherever he went. It was +from this king that his successors inherited their partiality for the +canine race, and in the memory of many yet living Suna is remembered for +his extraordinary attachment to dogs, for the special subsistence of +which he surrendered whole districts. Mtesa was also seen by Speke +showing great fondness for a dog, but the present monarch has long ago +abandoned this traditional predilection, and he now prohibits their +presence in his court. + +Kimera was of such size, strength, and weight that his feet made marks +in rocks, and the impress of one of his feet is shown to this day by the +antiquarians of Uganda in a rock situated not far from the capital, +Ulagalla. It is said that this mark was made by one of his feet slipping +while he was in the act of launching his spear at an elephant. Kimera +also explored countries remote and near, searching all the forests, the +wilderness, the plains, the fastnesses of the mountains, the summits of +hills and the caves, and travelled along all the river-banks in vain +quest for the lost Kintu. + +The fact seemed to be impressed on the minds of all that Kintu was only +lost, not dead, that he was immortal, and Kimera, even more than his +predecessors, was indefatigable in his efforts to verify this belief. He +led in person large expeditions, and offered great rewards to peasants, +promising to make him who discovered Kintu next to the king in power—the +Katekiro of Uganda. But he likewise failed in the search, and finally +died. + +Almass (which name, if Arabic, rendered into English, means “Diamond”) +succeeded Kimera the hunter. This king’s name is a favourite one among +the Arabs, which I take to be further evidence that the founder of the +Uganda monarchy had Asiatic blood in his veins. Of Almass, tradition +says nothing save that, like his father, he hoped to find Kintu. On his +death he was succeeded by his son Tembo. + +After Tembo came Kigara, Wanpamba, Kaeema, and Nakivingi, the last being +remembered for his heroic valour and many conquests. + +Nakivingi fought and subjected the Wanyoro, who, from their predilection +for sweet potatoes, may have deemed themselves long ago a separate +people from the Waganda, a theory by no means supported by the authority +of venerable tradition. + +After Nakivingi we have a long list of kings, about whom tradition, +fable, and history are all alike silent. Morondo succeeded Nakivingi—the +Charlemagne of Uganda—and after him followed Sekamanya, Jemba, Suna I., +Kimbugwé, Katerega, Ntewi, and Juko. This last, it is said, had a +headstrong, violent, and disobedient son, named Kyemba, whom he was +obliged to pacify with the island of Uvuma, whence afterwards he +appeared in Uganda, deposed his father Juko, and, slaying him, reigned +in his stead. + +One of the heroes of Nakivingi was a warrior named Kibaga, who possessed +the power of flying. When the king warred with the Wanyoro, he sent +Kibaga into the air to ascertain the whereabouts of the foe, who, when +discovered by this extraordinary being, were attacked on land in their +hiding-places by Nakivingi, and from above by the active and faithful +Kibaga, who showered great rocks on them, and by these means slew a vast +number. + +It happened that among the captives of Unyoro Kibaga saw a beautiful +woman, who was solicited by the king in marriage. As Nakivingi was +greatly indebted to Kibaga for his unique services, he gave her to +Kibaga as wife, with a warning, however, not to impart the knowledge of +his power to her, lest she should betray him. For a long time after +marriage his wife knew nothing of his power, but suspecting something +strange in him from his repeated sudden absences and reappearances at +his home, she set herself to watch him, and one morning as he left his +hut she was surprised to see him suddenly mount into the air with a +burden of rocks slung on his back. On seeing this she remembered the +Wanyoro complaining that more of their people were killed by some means +from above than by the spears of Nakivingi, and Delilah-like, loving her +race and her people more than she loved her husband, she hastened to her +people’s camp, and communicated, to the surprise of the Wanyoro, what +she had that day learned. + +To avenge themselves on Kibaga, the Wanyoro set archers in ambush on the +summits of each lofty hill, with instructions to confine themselves to +watching the air and listening for the brushing of his wings, and to +shoot their arrows in the direction of the sound, whether anything was +seen or not. By this means on a certain day, as Nakivingi marched to the +battle, Kibaga was wounded to the death by an arrow, and upon the road +large drops of blood were seen falling, and on coming to a tall tree the +king detected a dead body entangled in its branches. When the tree was +cut down, Nakivingi saw to his infinite sorrow that it was the body of +his faithful flying warrior Kibaga. + +Succeeding Kyemba came Tibandéké, Mdowra, Kaguru, Kikuruwé, and Ma’anda. +It was the fortune of this last king to discover news of the lost Kintu, +after a most remarkable and romantic manner. + +Though history and fable are silent respecting the acts of many of +Ma’anda’s predecessors, we may well believe that each king made efforts +to discover the missing Kintu, as the belief that he was still alive +obtained as firm credence in the reign of Ma’anda as in the days of Chwa +and Kimera. With Ma’anda this belief was very strong, and spurred by the +hope that some day it would be his happy fortune to be successful, he +was ardent in the chase, penetrating great forests, and traversing +extensive plains and valleys, ostensibly to hunt game, but really to +hunt up news of Kintu. + +It happened one day, after returning to his capital from one of these +expeditions, that a peasant living not far off was compelled from +lack of fuel for his family to enter a forest to cut wood. Having +over-exerted himself, and being very much fatigued, and his home being +far, he resolved to sleep in the forest, near his wood pile. For the +sake of security and uninterrupted sleep he constructed a rude hut, and +fenced it round with the branches of the prostrate trees, and when it +was completed he laid himself down and slept. + +And a sound sleep it was, we may imagine, induced by hard labour and +fatigue, though not a dreamless one. For in his sleep, it is said, he +dreamed a strange dream, wherein he thought he heard a voice, which +said, “Go to a place in this forest, where the trees are very thick, +round an open space near a stream running by, and you will there see +something which will give you great wealth, and make you a great chief.” +Three times the dream was repeated. These words caused the heart of the +sleeping peasant to bound for joy; so much so that it woke him, and then +he began to regret that the good which was promised him was but a dream +and a mockery. But reflecting that he knew the place described, for he +had often been there, and that it was not very far off, he thought he +might as well obey the voice in the dream, if only for the sake of +satisfying his curiosity. He had dreamed the same dream thrice, and each +time the voice had been emphatic and precise, and he thought that there +might be something of truth conveyed in it. + +After a few hours’ hurried travel, he approached the place described, +and his movements towards the spot became now very cautious, lest some +event might occur quite the reverse of his hopes, as dreams sometimes go +by contraries. He heard the murmur and gurgle of the stream, and the +soughing of the branches of the forest overhead in such a solitary place +filled his heart with awe. He began to feel frightened, though he knew +not at what, and was more than half inclined to turn back. Yet this +eerie feeling and alarm might be causeless; he therefore advanced into +the open space, and suddenly he saw there a sight that almost petrified +him. + +Ranged in two rows, on either side of a venerable man, who reclined on a +kind of throne, were many warriors seated on mats. They held spears and +shields in their hands, and the complexion of these men was so light as +to resemble that of white men. The central figure on the throne was that +of an old man, whose long beard was white with age, and his complexion +was similar to the warriors seated on the mats. All were clothed in +spotless white robes. + +For a time no man spoke, though all eyes were turned on the astonished +and awed peasant, and regarded him with a stern and awful gaze. Finally, +the silence was broken by the voice of the old man, which sounded to the +peasant like that which he had heard in the dream, and it said, +“Peasant, tell me what country this is.” + +The peasant answered, trembling, and perspiring through excessive fear, +“Eh, don’t you know? This is Uganda.” + +“And who was the first king?” demanded the old man. “Come tell me his +name?” + +“Kintu,” answered the peasant. + +“True,” said the old man. “Now tell me the name of the present king.” + +“Ma’anda,” replied the peasant. + +“Well then, depart instantly, and haste to Ma’anda the king, and bid him +come to Kintu, who shall be here to meet him, for Ma’anda has long +searched for Kintu, and Kintu has somewhat to tell Ma’anda. Bid him come +hither accompanied only by his mother and thyself, and mark me, not even +his dog must follow him. Haste and tell King Ma’anda all thou hast seen +and heard, and if thou art faithful, thy reward shall be great.” + +The peasant needed to hear no more, but turned and fled away with the +speed of an antelope, and early at dawn next day arrived at the capital, +and proceeded direct to the Katekiro, to whom he said, “I have news to +tell King Ma’anda, and no man else must hear it. Take me to the king +without delay.” + +The man’s manner, though he was mean in appearance, was peremptory, and +the Katekiro dared not refuse his request, but rose and conducted him to +the king. + +It happened, strangely enough, that at the same moment Ma’anda was +relating to his mother, whom he had sent for, the story of a strange +dream he had dreamed during the night. He had scarcely finished its +relation when the Katekiro was announced, who said to him, “King, here +is a strange man, a peasant, I believe, who states that he has important +news to tell thee, and thee alone,” which when the king heard, and had +seen the peasant, he said to his mother, “Lo! now, this is the very man +I saw in my dream, who told me such wonderful news.” + +Then turning eagerly to the peasant, he said to him, “Speak, man, what +is it thou hast to say to me?” + +“O, king,” he replied, “I may not speak except to thee and thy mother, +for so have I been commanded.” + +Then Ma’anda impatiently commanded the Katekiro to retire and, that they +might not be disturbed, to set a guard at the outer gate, so that on no +account either man, woman, or child might enter the inner court. + +When they were quite alone, the peasant began to unfold to Ma’anda his +story from the beginning to the end, just as it is told here, concluding +with the old man’s words: “Bid the king come with his mother and +thyself, and, mark me, not even his dog must follow him.” + +On hearing this news, Ma’anda said, “Come, let us go, only us three, for +so the old man said,” and taking his spear and shield, the king strode +out of the inner court through a private gate followed by his mother and +the peasant without communicating to a soul else whither he was going. + +Despite this secrecy, however, it soon became publicly known that King +Ma’anda and his mother had left the palace, accompanied by a peasant, +and that they had taken the direction of the forest, towards which they +had been seen travelling with rapid steps by one who communicated the +information to the Katekiro. + +This news plunged the principal chief of the kingdom into a state of +perplexity. He was for a moment at a loss what to do, for had his master +desired any other company he would undoubtedly have made it known; but, +on the other hand, this conduct was inexplicable, and the king might +have been lured by some cunning plausible tale to proceed in this +manner, whereby he might be destroyed without detection. + +As the thought of treachery to the king flashed through his mind, he +instantly resolved to follow him and watch after his safety, and should +the peasant mean harm to him, he would be at hand, though unsuspected, +to assist his master. He therefore seized his spear and shield, and sped +away after the king in stealthy pursuit. Soon he discovered the king, +the king’s mother, and the peasant, and, slackening his steps, sought +only to keep them in view, and to elude the quick, searching glances +which he saw the king frequently dart behind him. They travelled in this +manner all that day and half of the next day, when the peasant informed +the king that they were approaching the appointed place. + +The king, to assure himself that they had not been followed by any one, +looked keenly around once more, and having satisfied himself that they +were alone, he commanded the peasant to move on and point out the +meeting-place. Gliding under the shadows of the dense grove surrounding +the open space, they soon emerged from them, and were in front of the +extraordinary assembly, who appeared to have preserved the same posture +and attitude since the departure of the peasant on his errand to the +king. + +As the three advanced near the extremity of the rows of seated warriors, +the old man on the throne asked the king, who was in advance, and gazing +on the scene with the greatest astonishment, “Who art thou?” + +“I am Ma’anda,” he replied. + +“Art thou the king?” + +“I am.” + +“And who is that woman with thee?” the old man demanded. + +“My mother,” the king answered. + +“It is well,” said he; “but how is it you did not observe what I +commanded? Why came ye not alone?” + +“We have done exactly as we were told,” said the king. “There are only +my mother and this peasant with me, for no one knew of my departure.” + +“But I have seen another man behind thee,” persisted the old man. “Tell +me who he is?” + +“Rest assured,” said Ma’anda, “there is no man save this peasant with +me, for yesterday and to-day I looked several times behind me to make +sure that I was not followed.” + +“Who was the first king of Uganda?” suddenly asked the old man. + +“Kintu,” answered Ma’anda. + +“Thou sayest truly,” said the old man slowly and deliberately; “and +Kintu was good. He injured no man, beast, bird, or insect, and no living +thing had cause to complain of him. He never even struck a man with a +stick, or caused him pain in any manner, for he loved his children like +a kind father should; but his sons grew exceedingly wicked, headstrong, +disobedient, and utterly unmanageable. They loved to shed blood. They +first slaughtered beasts, and became so accustomed to blood that at last +they slew their brothers and sisters. They became so madly in love with +blood that they wished to shed that of their good father Kintu. Then +Kintu saw that Uganda was no more a land for him, that it was unfit for +him to live in, and, oh! when he looked on the face of the land at +first, it was so fair and pure that it delighted his eyes, but when it +became red and filthy with the blood of innocent men and women and +children, it became hateful to Kintu, and he departed from the horrid, +cruel land. From Chwa down to Ma’anda each king has sought to find +Kintu, though in vain. Thou, Ma’anda, shalt see Kintu face to face, and +thou shalt hear him speak; but first I have somewhat to tell thee from +him. Listen, and mark well his words—but tell me who was that man that +followed thee hither?” he suddenly asked. + +Ma’anda, well pleased that he of all his predecessors was selected to +see and converse with Kintu, had become all attention, and every fibre +and nerve quivered to hear the prelude to the introduction; but when +interrogated by the old man again upon a subject already satisfactorily +answered, he asked impatiently, “Why dost thou ask again when I have +already told thee that no man followed me here, because no man could +have known whither I went?” + +“But I,” said the old man calmly, “saw a man follow thee step by step. +Why didst thou let him come, when I expressly told thee thou must come +only with thy mother and this peasant?” + +The king’s mother and the peasant declared that Ma’anda had spoken +truly, and that no man followed them. + +“I saw him behind that tree listening. Behold! there he stands,” said +the old man, suddenly pointing to the Katekiro, who, perceiving that he +was discovered, now came forward. + +The three turned their eyes on hearing the words of the old man, and at +the sight of the Katekiro, Ma’anda grew desperately enraged, and with +passionate fury he seized his spear, launched it, and pierced his +faithful servant through the heart, who with a short, sharp shriek, fell +dead at his feet. + +But, lo! when King Ma’anda and his companions turned to discover what +effect this scene had upon the old man and the seated warriors, they +found that they had vanished, and that not even the slightest trace of +them was left; at which the three stared at one another in the wildest +astonishment. Then the king, recovering from his surprise, fell upon the +ground and wept aloud, calling upon the name of Kintu; and the king’s +mother and the peasant added their cries to his, and wept as if their +hearts would break. But no blood-hating Kintu answered to them, only the +tall deep woods echoed their cries, “Kintu, Kintu-u, Kintu-u-u-u,” as if +in mockery of their sorrow. + +All night they kept watch, breaking out now and then into moaning and +wailings for the last loss of the great father of Uganda. But Kintu, +after this scene, never more appeared in Uganda, and to this day he has +not been seen or heard of by any man. + +After Ma’anda’s death succeeded Msangi, Namugara, and Chabagu. In the +time of this latter king flourished Wakinguru, a hero, whose name +history, cherished within the memories of admiring men, has preserved +for his unparalleled deeds. When Chabagu invaded Usoga, it appears that +the Wasoga were very numerous, and, having as yet never been reduced to +submission by the Waganda, very bold and fearless. The people of Usoga +mocked the victorious Waganda until Chabagu was roused to declare war +upon them; and to show them the prowess of the people whom they had so +insolently defied Chabagu permitted Wakinguru to cross over to Jinja +alone, that he might exhibit the warlike qualities of his nation in his +own person. + +Wakinguru, we are led to believe, was a man of herculean frame, and we +may well suppose him gifted with more than common courage. He marched to +the height of Jinja with a large bundle of spears on his back, and his +shield was so ample and thick that it required two ordinary men to lift +it. + +Arriving at a place where he could command a clear view of the Wasoga +camp, he shouted out a bold challenge to any man, or to all at once, to +approach him, that he might show them what manner of men were those who +had been so frequently insulted by them. Several of the Wasoga, +responding to the challenge, rushed up to try his mettle, but +Wakinguru’s spears were so formidable, and his strength so great, that +long before any of the foe came within distance permitting an ordinary +man to launch his spear, they were all dead men. The hero then plucked +his spears from the corpses, and prepared to meet the next party, who +came up in hot haste to avenge the deaths of their friends. Again the +redoubtable man launched his fatal spears, and again the Wasoga had to +lament the deaths of their champions. + +Enraged by this, the Wasoga at length advanced in a body, and formed a +large circle round him; but Wakinguru only laughed at this manœuvre, and +continued remorselessly slaying, launching his whirring lengthy shafts +with the most deadly effect; and then, picking up the spears of his +enemies, with which the ground near him was plentifully strewn, he +returned their own weapons to them, launching them with the swiftness +and certainty of arrows. His strength sustained him in this unequal +contest from sunrise to sunset, when it was discovered that Wakinguru +had slain 600 men with his own hand! At night he crossed Jinja (or the +Falls) to Ugungu unharmed, where he refreshed himself with the bananas +and milk and water of Uganda, and where he received the warmest +congratulations from King Chabagu and his army. + +Next morning Wakinguru renewed the battle, and it continued throughout +the whole of the second day, during which time the hero slew a similar +number; and on the third day also he fought with the same success, until +at last the Wasoga confessed that they were unable to meet him. + +Then King Chabagu crossed the water above Jinja (Napoleon Channel), and +completed the conquest of Usoga. + +After Chabagu succeeded Junju, Waseje, and Kamanya. This last king, +grandfather of the present monarch, is remembered for his victories over +the Wakedi, a most ferocious and warlike people occupying country north +of Usoga. The Wakedi, it is said, wore armour, and employed in their +wars an immense number of great dogs, as large as young lions. Besides, +the country of the Wakedi was surrounded by broad rivers or small +lakes,[23] and these several advantages had made the Wakedi rather +feared by the Waganda. But vexed by the repeated forays made by them +into the very heart of his country, and the impunity with which they +carried them, Kamanya determined to prosecute a war against them until +one side or the other should be declared beyond doubt the stronger. For +this purpose he assembled his chiefs, and, having stated the advantages +of situation which Ukedi enjoyed against attack, commanded them to +advise him as to the means and ways of conducting the campaign. + +Stimulated by large rewards, the chiefs proposed various tactics for +retaliating upon the enemy; but it was the plan of the grandfather of +Sabadu the historian that was deemed the best. This person advised +Kamanya to command 100 canoes to proceed by water to Jinja, where they +might be taken to pieces and conveyed overland through Usoga to the +Nagombwa river,[24] whence, after reconstruction, they could proceed to +attack the Wakedi in the rear, while the king himself could proceed with +his army to Urondogani, along the western bank of the Victoria Nile, and +menace Ukedi from that side. This wise counsel was loudly applauded and +at once adopted, the charge of the canoes being given to Sabadu’s +grandfather himself. + +The Wakedi, as might be imagined, attacked in such an unlooked-for +direction, were greatly surprised and discouraged. They fled for refuge +to their fenced villages, leaving their cattle in the hands of the +Waganda, who drove them across the Nagombwa to Usoga. The vengeance of +the Waganda not being yet complete, they proceeded to attack the Wakedi +in their fenced villages, using red-hot arrows wrapped in bark cloth, by +which the straw huts were set on fire, and the inhabitants driven out to +meet the spears of the Waganda. + +Perceiving that the presence of Kamanya on the opposite bank of the Nile +was only a ruse, the Wakedi concentrated their forces to drive the +Waganda who had come by way of the Nagombwa out of the country. When the +two nations met, a desperate battle ensued, rather to the disadvantage +of the Waganda, for the enemy wore iron armour, which their spears could +not penetrate. + +After consultation, it was decided by the Waganda that at the next +battle they would not waste their time in launching their spears, but +would rush on the foe with naked hands and capture and bind them. + +Having received large reinforcements, the Waganda resumed the battle, +but instead of throwing their spears they simply defended their bodies +with their shields, and rushing on their encumbered adversaries, seized +and bound them with cords. Perceiving that affairs were becoming +desperate for them, the Wakedi mustered all their war-hounds, which, +while the Waganda were engaged with their masters, rushed upon them from +all sides, with their large mouths wide open, barking tremendously, and +bit and tore them in such a manner that the Waganda became stricken with +panic, and fled to their canoes. The hounds, with their fury unappeased, +rushed after the canoes into the water, where an immense number of them +were easily slaughtered by the Waganda, whose senses, it appears, were +by this time collected. Fearing that they would lose all their faithful +war-hounds, the Wakedi recalled their dogs, paid tribute, and +acknowledged the superiority and supremacy of the Waganda, and to this +day the Wakedi have been true to their allegiance. + +As we arrive nearer our own times, the history of Uganda becomes, +of course, more precise and trustworthy. Thus, when we come to Suna +II., the son of Kamanya, and predecessor and father of Mtesa, we are +told that he was about sixteen years of age when he succeeded to his +father, and about forty when he died, and that he reigned, therefore, +twenty-four years. As Mtesa ascended the throne in his nineteenth year, +and as he has already reigned fifteen years (up to 1875), Suna must +have been born in 1820, begun to reign in 1836, and died in 1860. + +Suna, so his intimate friends still alive told me, was short of stature +and of very compact build, most despotic and cruel, but brave and +warlike. + +He had a peculiar habit, it is said, of sitting with his head bent low, +seldom looking up. His attitude seemed to be that of one intently +tracing designs on the ground, though in reality he was keenly alive to +all that was transpiring around him. He frequently beheaded his people +by hundreds. It is reported that one day he executed 800 people of +Uganda for a single crime committed. Other punishments which he +inflicted were dreadful, such as gouging out eyes, and slitting ears, +noses, and lips. It is said that he so seldom lifted his eyes from the +ground that whenever he did look up at a person, the executioners, +called “Lords of the Cord,” understood it as a sign of condemnation. + +Any messenger arriving with news was compelled to crawl on his knees, +and in this position to whisper it into the king’s ears. Whenever he +passed along a path, the announcement, “Suna is coming,” sufficed to +send the people flying in a panic from the neighbourhood. + +To strangers from other countries he was most liberal and hospitable, +and many Arab traders have had cause to bless the good fortune that +conducted them to Uganda in the days of Suna. + +This Emperor, or _Kabaka_, as the rulers of Uganda, after their vast +conquest, were styled, was also exceedingly fond of dogs. For the +sustenance of one of his pets he caused an entire district to be +cultivated and planted with the sweet potato, which was its favourite +diet; and when it died, he caused each chief to contribute bark-cloths +for its burial. + +He also kept a lion and a leopard, and another animal which, from its +description, I take to have been either a species of wolf or lynx; the +two former became quite tame, but the latter was so incorrigibly fierce +that he finally ordered it to be destroyed. + +From such a disposition as that of Suna, it was natural that he should +engage in frequent wars, and from his determined and resolute character +we cannot be surprised to hear that they were most bloody and terrible. +He conquered Ankori, overran Unyoro and Usoga, and was the first to +conquer the united nations of Uzongora. The lion-hearted Wavuma owned +him as their liege lord; even distant Ruanda heard of his name, tried +him in battle, and became convinced of his greatness. The details of the +two last wars in which Suna was engaged I have collected, and present +them here, as told by Sabadu, from which the reader may perceive for +himself the character of this monarch and the general nature of wars in +Central Africa. + +Suna heard that Usoga had rebelled and refused to pay tribute to him, +whereupon, after rendering homage and dues to the Muzimu, or +spirits,[25] he levied a vast army and marched to Jinja, or the rocks +overlooking the Ripon Falls, where he rested four days. The Wasoga, upon +Suna’s advance, fled to Kitenteh Island (situate in the channel between +Uvuma and Usoga, about seven miles from Nakaranga Cape). On this island +the Wasoga placed their women and children, and large herds of cattle, +and it was evident from the measures they adopted that they intended to +make a desperate and prolonged resistance. + +After marching through Usoga, he camped on the mainland, about half a +mile from Kitenteh Island. The Wavuma, responding to his command to +muster their canoes for the war, supplied him with over 100, manned by +natives of Uziri, Wema, and Kibibi; Lulamba, Irwaji, and Sessé Islands +supplied him with 200; while from the Uganda coast he obtained 200 more; +so that, in all, Suna had 500 canoes for the war. + +Usoga, an extensive country of itself, did its best to meet the monarch +of Uganda with a large and powerful fleet, and, assisted by its islands, +Namungi and Neygano; as also by Usuguru, Chaga, Muiwanda, and Ugana, was +able to match Suna’s fleet, canoe for canoe. + +But the spirit which animated the warriors of the two nations differed +greatly. On the one side was the determination to win freedom; on the +other a monarch resolved to retain in subjection, but lacking people to +meet the Wasoga on the water, and only able to compel his warriors to +fight at all on that element by the most horrible threats and the +inspiration of terror. + +Having assembled his fleet, Suna ordered the assault; but the Wasoga met +the Waganda in the channel, and after a desperate battle drove the +Waganda in precipitate retreat to the mainland. For the period of a +month repeated efforts were made to effect a landing on the island, but +the Wasoga, with great spirit and bravery, repelled the Waganda with +severe loss. The Wasoga also, adding insult to injury, were accustomed +to approach the mainland and taunt the king with bitter words, telling +him to seek the graves of Kaguru and Kamanya, and bury himself there for +very shame.[26] At length, enraged by these taunts, Suna called his +chiefs to him, and in assembly assailed them with bitter reproaches, and +asking them if he was not the Emperor, and if Emperor, why the Wasoga +were permitted to taunt him, and stung to frenzy by the memory of the +insults lately received, commanded his chiefs to man their canoes on the +morrow and assault the island, threatening them, if they failed, with +roasting, decapitation, and utter destruction. + +The chiefs prostrated themselves one after another, and swore to set +their feet on Kitenteh Island the next day. The morrow came, and each +chief was in his canoe with his most chosen warriors. The battle ensued, +but only four chiefs were true to their promise—the Katekiro, +Namujurilwa (Majwara’s father[27]), and two others of equal bravery and +eminence. The Katekiro on landing killed two with his spear at one +thrust, so great was the throng of Wasoga who rushed against him. +Namujurilwa’s spear was plunged through three at a time, but unable to +draw his weapon out, he was attacked by a Msoga, who with his javelin +pinned both his arms, and he was only saved by a rush of his own men, +who bore him away to his canoe. The two other chiefs slew two men each, +and were obliged to retire, being unsupported by their people. Many +other chiefs distinguished themselves, and many died fighting in the +attempt to land on the island. + +The Wasoga had formed themselves into four ranks on this day. The first +comprised the slingers, and the second the spearmen, the third, on +higher ground, slingers again, and the fourth a reserve of spearmen, for +the final and supreme struggle. + +For three successive days the chiefs of Uganda led in person the Waganda +to the assault, until finally the queen’s father requested Suna not to +sacrifice all his chiefs while the peasants were standing idle +spectators. Suna yielded to his request, and perceiving that bravery was +of no avail against the desperate Wasoga, he adopted the plan of +surrounding the island day and night with his canoes, and starving the +rebels into submission. What food the unfortunate Wasoga were able to +obtain was inadequate for their wants, and cost them much trouble and +many lives, both on shore, in distant parts of the coast, and in the +channel, for Suna had constructed large camps along the coast of Usoga, +and his canoes kept strict watch and ward over Kitenteh Island. + +For two months the Wasoga endured this state of things, but at the end +of that period, being reduced to the verge of absolute starvation, four +of their chiefs approached the camp of Suna with offers of submission. +Suna refused to see them, but gave them thirty head of cattle to convey +to the island, with a request to the chiefs to eat, and think well first +of what they offered, promising that, if on the fourth day they were +still of the same mind, he would be willing to talk with them. + +At the end of the fourth day twenty chiefs came over from Kitenteh +Island, stating that they were willing to submit to Suna, to pay +tribute, and to render service. He received them graciously, and ordered +them to commence the next day, with the assistance of his own canoes, +the transportation of the Wasoga to his camp, in order that they might +all render their submission to him. + +For three days, it is said, the Waganda and Wasoga canoes were engaged +in this service, and as fast as the Wasoga arrived they were conducted +to a large stockade erected expressly for them during the night of +the surrender. On the fourth day, his late enemies being all in his +camp, surrounded by his own people, he called their chiefs and told +them he would be gratified if they and their warriors would perform +their war-dance before him next day. Unsuspecting evil, they willingly +promised. + +Suna after their departure to the stockade instructed the Waganda chiefs +to bring all their people, early next morning, each man supplied with a +cord, and to form them in two ranks four deep, and when he gave the +signal, to fall upon the Wasoga and bind them. On the morning of the +fifth day the Waganda were all drawn up as instructed, and the Wasoga, +seeing nothing in this but Suna’s desire of showing his power and pomp, +and without the least idea what this war-dance portended to them, +marched within the fatal lines, armed only with sticks, as had been +agreed—upon the cunning plea that the Waganda might take offence at +seeing them play with edged weapons before Suna. They were the more +completely thrown off their guard by the kindness shown to them by the +Emperor and by the liberal supplies of cattle and bananas supplied to +them since their surrender. + +We can imagine how the unhappy Wasoga advanced smiling into Suna’s +presence on this great day, and how, wishing to please the fearful +despot, they danced to the best of their power. But on a sudden, while +they were exerting their voices (30,000 is the number given) into a +grand swelling chorus at the triumphal finale of the fictitious war +which they had been representing, Suna gave the signal, and 100,000 +Waganda warriors fell upon them, and despite their fearful, desperate +struggles—when all too late the treachery of Suna became apparent—bound +them hand and foot. + +Out of this immense number of prisoners, sixty of the principal chiefs +were selected and placed before Suna, who said to them:—“For three +months you have kept me and my people waiting for your submission; you +rebelled against my authority, and attempted to throw off your +allegiance; you have slain more than half of my principal chiefs, and +you have vexed me with taunts, telling me to go and seek the graves of +Kaguru and Kamanya, and to hide myself there for shame. You have mocked +me—me! who am called Suna—Suna, the Emperor (_Kabaka_). I go to my grave +by-and-by, but by the grave of my father Kamanya you shall die to-day, +and you may tell your fathers that Suna the Emperor sent you to them.” + +Then turning to the Waganda, he fiercely shouted, “Cut them to little +pieces, and pile their remains on the plain without the camp.” As Suna +commanded, so was it done, and the Waganda were employed on this +monstrous work for five days, for they obeyed his command literally, +and, beginning at the legs and arms, hacked their victims to pieces +without taking the trouble to despatch them first. + +Usoga, upon hearing of this terrible deed, sent all its principal men +and chiefs to implore pardon and proffer submission and allegiance, +which Suna was pleased to accept. This event closed the war, and Suna +returned to his palace in Uganda with a train of 5000 female captives +and 8000 children. + +Soon after his return to Uganda the Wasoga rebelled a second time under +the leadership of Rura, chief of Nakaranga, upon hearing which Suna +smiled grimly and said, “Rura has taken much time to make up his mind; +since he has waited so long let him wait a little longer, and I will +show him who his master is.” + +Meantime Namujurilwa, chief of Uddu, after returning to visit his home, +heard that his neighbour the king of Ankori or Usagara was preparing to +invade his country with a mighty force. Ever prompt for mischief and +war, Namujurilwa did not wait to meet the Wasagara on his own soil, but +beat his war-drum, and, mustering his followers, marched through Bwera +and penetrated into the very heart of Ankori, and there surprised his +enemies, assembled under five princes, in their own camp. + +Namujurilwa fell upon them with a ferocity and vigour that the numerical +superiority of his enemies could not equal. For five hours the battle +lasted without intermission or advantage to either side, when +Namujurilwa was accidentally met by one of the princes of Ankori. + +“Not dead yet, Namujurilwa?” cried the prince. “Wait a little for me,” +saying which he took a bow from one of his servants and shot an arrow +which hit the border of the tough double bull-hide shield which the +chief of Uddu generally carried. + +Namujurilwa did not wait for a second arrow, but bounded forward, crying +out, “No, not dead yet, prince” (_Mlangira_), “and shall not die until I +have killed you,” and forthwith launched his dirk-pointed spear, which +pinned both the shield and body of the unfortunate youth. + +Another prince coming up and observing his brother fall, shot an arrow, +and pierced the leopard-skin of the Uddu chief, who returned the +compliment with one of his long spears, which penetrated his body and +protruded far through his back. The death of these two princes decided +the battle, for the Wasagara became panic-stricken and fled, leaving a +vast spoil of cattle and effects in the conqueror’s hands. + +Upon returning to Uddu from the war, the victorious chief sent 300 +women, 600 children of both sexes, and 1000 head of cattle to the +Emperor Suna, as his share of the spoil, who on viewing the magnificent +gift said to his chiefs in assembly, “Truly, Namujurilwa is brave, there +is none like him in Uganda.” + +Setuba, a great chief, holding under Suna an extensive tract of +country[28] bordering upon Unyoro, whispered to his neighbour, “H’m, you +hear how Suna praises Namujurilwa; let us go to Unyoro and show Suna +that he has other chiefs as brave as Namujurilwa.” + +Requesting and obtaining leave of the Emperor to visit his own country, +Setuba soon left the capital, and after arriving at his chief village, +beat his war-drum and summoned his people to war. + +Taking with him 300 head of cattle, he crossed the frontier of Unyora, +where he slew his cattle and made his followers eat beef to make +themselves strong. Having devoured the meat, his people informed Setuba +that they were now as strong as lions and all prepared for war. + +Setuba smiled and said to them, “I have given you 300 head of my own +cattle; go and bring me 3000 head and I shall consider that you have +paid me for what you have eaten.” + +The warriors responded to Setuba’s words with a shout, and at once set +out to collect spoil from the Wanyoro, while Setuba and a chosen band +remained in camp. The Waganda, however, were promptly met by the Wanyoro +in considerable numbers, and after a few hours were defeated and pursued +as far as Setuba’s camp. + +The chief received the fugitives sternly and said, “Where are those +lions whom I lately fed with my cattle? Are you about to return to +Uganda with empty hands? Yes, go on, and as you fly proclaim that +Setuba, your chief, is dead.” Saying which Setuba seized his spears and +shield, and followed by his chosen band bounded out of his camp to meet +the advancing Wanyora. + +Fired with indignation and shame, Setuba soon met the Wanyora, and began +flinging his spears with splendid effect. With his first spear he killed +three, with the second he slew two more. The fugitives, seeing the +vigour and courage of their chief, halted, and began to ask of one +another, “Who dares go and tell Suna that Setuba is dead? Let us fight +and die with Setuba.” + +The word “Setuba, tuba, tuba!” became a war-cry, echoed fiercely far and +near, turning the fugitives on their pursuers, who in a short time +became the pursued. For two days the Waganda rioted in the blood of the +now terror-stricken Wanyora, who were finally compelled to fly to the +summit of the mountains for refuge, leaving their families and cattle in +the valleys to be swept away by the fierce Waganda. + +On returning to Uganda Setuba sent 2000 women, 4000 children, and 2000 +heads of cattle, besides goats and sheep without number, to the Emperor +as his share, and Setuba heard Suna declare proudly that he knew of no +monarch who could show heroes to equal Setuba and Namujurilwa, and that +his heart was big with pride. + +There stood that day, when the Emperor publicly mentioned with praise +the names of Setuba and Namujurilwa, a young man listening to him, who +from that moment resolved to eclipse both chiefs. His name was +Kasindula, a sub-chief or Mtongoleh of the great Sekebobo’s country of +Chagwe, who had neither pride of birth nor riches to boast of. He was a +mere worthy young fellow, who had distinguished himself in a few +engagements under Sekebobo, for which the old chief had promoted him +from a peasant (_kopi_) to be a sub-chief (_mtongoleh_). + +A few days after the great levee of Suna, Kasindula proceeded to +Sekebobo, and requested him to ask permission of the Emperor that he +should be allowed to rebuild his majesty’s camp at Jinja, as many of the +huts were in a most ruinous state, and many of Suna’s women were +compelled to sleep in the open air. + +Sekebobo introduced Kasindula to the Emperor, and preferred his request +to him, who graciously acceded to it, adding that it was not every day +that men came to ask leave to do him a service: they generally asked him +for some gift or other. + +Kasindula was profuse in his thanks, and then departed with 2000 men +from Sekebobo to assist him in the work of reconstructing the imperial +camp at Jinja, and the kind old chief also gave him several large +canoes, to transport the working force across Napoleon Channel. + +The young chief lost no time after his arrival at Jinja, but +industriously set to work, and in a few days had entirely rebuilt the +houses, and surrounded them with their respective courts, and had +cleared the whole camp from much accumulated rubbish, until the camp +would have pleased even fastidious Suna himself. + +He then caused the war-drum to be sounded, and, responding to its +ominous call, all who were capable of lifting the spear, dwelling in the +neighbourhood of Jinja, gathered round Kasindula, who said:— + +“Warriors of Uganda and children of Suna, listen to me. You know how, +after Suna slew the rebellious Wasoga before Kitenteh Island, that the +chiefs of Usoga all came and swore allegiance to him; and how, when Suna +had returned to Uganda, the Wasoga chief Rura headed another rebellion, +and challenged Suna to return to Usoga to fight him. When Suna heard the +challenge of the boastful Rura, he only smiled, and said, ‘Let him wait +a little.’ Suna is too great to fight with Rura, for Kasindula, a +Mtongoleh of Sekebobo, is sufficient for him. To-night we march to +Nakaranga, and to-morrow morning before sunrise Rura shall sleep with +his brothers who died before Kitenteh. Warriors, prepare yourselves!” + +Though Nakaranga was fully thirty miles from Jinja, Kasindula had +reached about midnight the principal village of the chief, and after +surrounding it with his people, fired the huts at daybreak, thus +expelling the sleeping Wasoga from them, to fall by the spears of the +ambushed Waganda. Having made clean work of all Rura’s district, +Kasindula gathered the spoil, and long before noon was far on his return +to Jinja. + +The Usoga confederacy, hearing of this raid and of the death of Rura and +his sons, hurried to Nakaranga to avenge the slaughter, but they found +only black desolation and emptiness in Rura’s district, while the +raiders had escaped in safety to Jinja, whither they dared not follow +them, and accordingly returned, each chief to his own district. + +After a few days’ rest Kasindula made another raid in a totally +different direction with similar results, and again the Wasoga hurried +up, only to find the houses all consumed, the warriors all dead, and the +women and children and cattle all deported away. + +“What manner of man is this,” asked the astonished Wasoga of one +another, “who comes in the night, like a hyena, and vanishes with the +daylight, with his maw gorged with blood?” Consoling themselves, +however, with a vow to be revenged on him at a fitting opportunity, they +returned again to their own districts. + +But hard upon their heels followed the wary and resolute Kasindula; and +again he destroyed an entire district, with all its males, and carried +the women and children into captivity. This news was too disheartening +to the Wasoga, for now they began to dread that they would be utterly +destroyed in detail, whereupon, perceiving that their principal chiefs +were all dead, they sent an embassy to Suna, with a tribute of the most +comely women and a large quantity of maramba, asking his forgiveness. + +Kasindula, meanwhile, finding his hands full of spoil, collected all +together, and drove his captives and cattle, by forced marches, to Suna, +who, warned of his approach, prepared to receive him in state and in a +full assembly of the chiefs. + +Having arranged the women and children by thousands before him, and +parked the cattle in full view of the Emperor, Kasindula, clad in a +humble and dingy bark cloth, prostrated himself before him and said:— + +“Great Kabaka, I went to Jinja, and built your camp, and housed your +women as you commanded me; and hearing how Namujurilwa and Setuba had +avenged you on the Wasagara and Wanyoro, I thought myself strong enough +to answer the challenge sent by Rura and his friends to you. + +“My dear lord, Namujurilwa and Setuba are great chiefs, and stand in +your presence daily, but I am only a Mtongoleh under Sekebobo. I have +neither farm nor house, wife nor child, and my only wealth consists of +my spear and my shield, and my only cloth is this rotten _mbugu_. +Namujurilwa and Setuba brought slaves and cattle by hundreds, but the +_kopi_ Kasindula brings his thousands to Suna. Behold where they stand! +Kasindula brings them all to Suna.” And putting his hands together, he +cried aloud, “Twiyanzi, yanzi, yanzi, yanzi!” with all the fervour of +one having received a bountiful gift. + +The Emperor, upon inquiring the number of the spoil, was told that it +amounted to 7000 slaves, 2000 cows and oxen, 3000 goats, and 500 sheep; +upon which he said, “Kasindula has spoken truly; he has brought more +than either Namujurilwa or Setuba. In return, I make him now a chief of +the first rank, with land, cattle, and slaves of his own.” And Kasindula +was immediately invested with white cloths, and with all the honours, +privileges, and greatness of a _Mkungu_ of Uganda. + +After this turbulent epoch there were some months of tranquillity, when +one day there came a challenge from Kytawa, the mighty king of Uzongora, +who had made an alliance with the kings Kyozza, Kamiru, and Rugomero, +and with Antari, king of Ihangiro, against Suna. + +The Emperor sent the messenger of Kytawa back to him with a bullet and a +hoe, saying, “Give these to Kytawa; tell him to choose whether he will +take the bullet and have war, or whether he will keep the hoe and +cultivate his fields in peace; and bring his answer to me.” + +Kytawa imagined himself and his allies strong enough to meet Suna +in war, and kept the bullet. When the messenger returned with this +answer, Suna commanded his Katekiro to make up 300 man-loads of hoes +and old iron and to send them to Kytawa, and to say to him, “Suna +sends these hoes and iron to you, for may be that you are short of +spears, arrow-heads, and hatchets. Make war weapons for your people in +abundance during three months, and prepare for war, for in the fourth +month you shall see me and my people in your country, and I shall eat +it up clean, and there shall nothing be left alive in it.” + +This was the last war in which Suna was engaged. After three days’ +desperate fighting the Wazongora and their allies were defeated, and +Kytawa and the confederate kings were compelled to fly for refuge to the +island of Kishakka, where they were besieged, until all the kings +implored forgiveness, and swore to become tributary to him. + +Falling ill from small-pox, the Emperor accepted their oaths, and, +raising the siege, departed for Uganda. When he perceived that he was +about to die, he called his chiefs together and commanded them to make +Kajumba, his eldest son, his successor. + +This Kajumba, the Prince Imperial, however, was no favourite with the +Waganda, for he appears to have been a violent, headstrong youth of +gigantic size and strength. These qualities recommended him strongly to +Suna, who thought that with such a successor Uganda would retain its +prestige and supremacy, and apprehended nothing of danger to his own +people in a person of such violent passions; and, indeed, it is to be +doubted whether, after exercising with the utmost licence his own +undisputed authority, he even thought them worthy of consideration. + +Kajumba was Suna’s favourite, and the war-loving father on his death-bed +pointed out with pride to his chiefs the heroic qualities of the prince, +reminded them how when a mere boy he had slain a buffalo with a club and +an elephant with a single spear, and assured them with his latest breath +that Kajumba would become more renowned than either lion-like Kimera or +renowned Nakivingi. + +After his father’s death Prince Kajumba seized his weighty spear and +ample shield and proclaimed himself his father’s successor and choice, +and announced his determination to uphold his dignity to the death. The +chiefs, however, fearing Kajumba’s violence, laid hands on him, and +bound him hand and foot, and selected the mild-spoken, large-eyed boy +Mtesa, and made him Emperor of Uganda by acclamation. + +Suna was then buried with all the usual pomp attending such ceremonies +in Uganda; and the young Emperor, having paid all honour to his father’s +remains, and feeling himself firmly established in power, began to +reveal the true spirit which had been masked by the fair speech and +large eyes. + +He soon found reasons for slaying all his brothers, and, having disposed +of them, turned upon the chiefs, who had elected him Emperor of Uganda, +and put them to death, saying that he would have no subject about him to +remind him that he owed his sovereignty to him. + +According to his father’s custom, he butchered all who gave him offence, +and that lion in war, Namujurilwa, as also the Katekiro, he caused to be +beheaded. Frequently, when in a passion, he would take his spear in hand +and rush to his harem, and spear his women until his thirst for blood +was slaked. + +It is probable that Mtesa was of this temper when Speke saw him, and +that he continued in it until he was converted by the Arab Muley bin +Salim into a fervid Muslim. After this, however, he became more humane, +abstained from the strong native beer which used to fire his blood, and +renounced the blood-shedding custom of his fathers. + +Mtesa’s reign, like that of his predecessor, has been distinguished by +victories over many nations, such as the Wanyankori, Wanyoro, Wasui, +Wazongora, and Wasoga, and his Katekiro has carried his victorious flag +to Ruanda and to Usongora on the Muta Nzigé. He has likewise sent +embassies to the Khedive’s pasha of Gondokoro, to Sultans Majid and +Barghash of Zanzibar, and, having entertained most hospitably Captains +Speke and Grant, Colonel Long of the Egyptian army, myself, and M. +Linant de Bellefonds, is now desirous of becoming more intimate with +Europe, to introduce specie into his country, and to employ European +artisans to teach his people. + +For the interesting facts of the preceding pages, the world is indebted +to the gossip Sabadu, for until his revelations, as herein recorded, +Uganda and a large portion of Equatorial Africa were (to use the words +of ancient Pistol) liked a closed oyster, but which now, with his aid, +we have partly opened, thus obtaining glimpses, however unsatisfactory, +into the origin, custom, and history of the country. An epic poem might +be written upon the legend of the search for the lost patriarch, or a +prose romance, for there is material enough for a great work in the tale +Sabadu told me. + +If we begin to speculate as to who this Kintu, the blameless priest, +really was, and whether the legend does not bear some dim and vague +resemblance to the histories of Adam or Noah, handed down from +generation to generation through remote times among an unlettered +people, we may easily become lost in a maze of wild theories and +conjectures. There is, however, just as much ground for building such +suppositions, and to plausibly demonstrate them to be actualities and +facts, as there is for many other fables now generally accepted as +verities. + +It is impossible, while reading the tale of Kintu, the Blameless Priest, +not to be reminded at one time of Adam, at another of Noah—for both Adam +and Noah found the earth void and uninhabited, as Kintu is said to have +found Uganda and the neighbouring lands. In the gigantic Kimera, “the +mighty hunter,” we remember Nimrod, and in the wicked children of the +patriarch can suspect a faint resemblance to the shameless Ham. The +prolific wife, and no less prolific cow, goat, sheep, and the wonderful +banana-plant, have their counterparts in the traditions of every people +under the sun. And do we not ourselves believe + + “That all began + In Eden’s shade, and one created man”? + +The ingenious mind can also find the prototype of the miraculously +flying Kibaga in the angel that destroyed the first-born of Egypt, or +that other who smote the host of Assyria; and Nakivingi, or Chabagu and +his mighty warrior Wakinguru, might stand for David and his champions, +and the final disappearance of Kintu may be taken to represent the end +of the age of miracles. But speculation on these points will only lead +one into wild and vain theories: and it is enough for the purposes of +this book to accept the tale of Kintu as a simple tradition of Central +Africa. + +There is great reason to believe, however, that Kintu, if not a myth, is +a far more ancient personage than Mtesa’s list of kings would lead us to +suppose. At any rate, from other sources I have collected the names of +three kings of Uganda omitted by him. These are Semi-kokiro, Karago, and +Kimguvu. + +That the reader may be able to estimate the duration of the Uganda +monarchy, I append in a tabular form the list of the kings, including +the names of the three kings not mentioned by Mtesa:— + + 1. Kintu. + 2. Chwa. + 3. Kamiera. + 4. Kimera. + 5. Almass. + 6. Tembo. + 7. Kigara. + 8. Wanpamba + 9. Kaeema. + 10. Semi-kokiro. + 11. Karago. + + 12. Nakivingi. + 13. Morondo. + 14. Sekamanya. + 15. Kimguvu. + 16. Jemba. + 17. Suna I. + 18. Kimbugwé. + 19. Katerega. + 20. Ntewi. + 21. Juko. + 22. Kyemba. + 23. Tiwandeké. + 24. Mdowra. + + 25. Kaguru. + 26. Kikuruwé. + 27. Ma’anda. + 28. Msangi. + 29. Namugara. + 30. Chabagu. + 31. Junju. + 32. Wasejé. + 33. Kamanya. + 31. Suna II. + 35. Mtesa. + +The above forms a very respectable list of kings for a country in +Central Africa, and proves Uganda to be a monarchy of no mean antiquity, +if the number of names may be taken as any indication. Many names may +also have been forgotten—to be resuscitated perhaps by some future +traveller with the patience and time at command to rescue them from +oblivion. + +----- + +# 22: + + Some of the Waganda believe, however, that Kintu, or Ham, as Mtesa now + believes him to be, was buried at Magonga; but I prefer to adhere to + the legend as it was related to me. + +# 23: + + I have been struck at the frequent geographical hints thrown out by + Sabadu. + +# 24: + + Another geographical hint, which has been verified by investigation. I + have no doubt the Nagombwa will turn out to be the Asua. + +# 25: + + I have observed that Sabadu’s narrative contains many interesting + ethnological facts. Perhaps the reader needs to be informed that I + stenographed Sabadu’s story as he related it to me before my camp fire + at Nakaranga. + +# 26: + + In almost exactly the same manner the Wavuma daily taunted Mtesa. + +# 27: + + Majwara is the little boy who alone watched the last hours of Dr. + Livingstone. + +# 28: + + Each Mkungu is invested with a barony or county upon attaining this + high rank, and with absolute authority over the people and their + effects, upon condition of rendering service to his sovereign whenever + required. The least dereliction of duty would entail a forfeiture of + lands, and often of life. + + + + + CHAPTER XV. + +Life and manners in Uganda—The Peasant—The Chief—The Emperor—The Land. + + +To behold the full perfection of African manhood and beauty, one must +visit the regions of Equatorial Africa, where one can view the people +under the cool shade of plantains, and amid the luxuriant plenty which +those lands produce. The European traveller, after noting the great +length and wondrous greenness of the banana fronds, the vastness of +their stalks and the bulk and number of the fruit, the fatness of the +soil and its inexhaustible fertility, the perpetual springlike verdure +of the vegetation, and the dazzling sunshine, comes to notice that the +inhabitants are in fit accord with these scenes, and as perfect of their +kind as the bursting-ripe mellow bananas hanging above their heads. + +Their very features seem to proclaim, “We live in a land of butter and +wine and fulness, milk and honey, fat meads and valleys.” The vigour of +the soil, which knows no Sabbath, appears to be infused into their +veins. Their beaming lustrous eyes—restless and quick glancing—seem to +have caught rays of the sun. Their bronze-coloured bodies, velvety +smooth and unctuous with butter, their swelling sinews, the tuberose +muscles of the flanks and arms, reveal the hot lusty life which animates +them. + +Let me try to sketch one of these robust people, a Kopi or peasant of +Uganda, at home. + +THE “KOPI” OR PEASANT. + +Were it not for one thing, it might be said that the peasant of Uganda +realises the ideal happiness all men aspire after and would be glad to +enjoy. To see him in the imagination, you must discard from your mind +the inebriated, maudlin, filthy negro surrounded by fat wives and a +family of abdominous brats. He may be indolent if you please, but not so +indolent as to be unmindful of his own interests. For his gardens are +thriving, his plants are budding, and his fields are covered with grain. +His house has just been built and needs no repairs, and the fenced +courts round it are all in good condition. + +Roll the curtain up and regard him and his surroundings! + +He steps forth from his hut, a dark-brown-coloured man in the prime and +vigour of manhood, a cleanly, decent creature, dressed after the custom +of his country in a clay-coloured robe of bark cloth, knotted at the +shoulder and depending to his feet—apparently a contented, nay, an +extremely happy man, for a streak of sunshine having caught his face, we +have a better view of it and are assured it reflects a felicitous +contentment. + +He saunters—while arranging his robe with due respect to decency—to his +usual seat near the gate of the outer court, above which a mighty banana +towers, shading it with its far-reaching fronds. + +In the foreground, stretched before him, is his garden, which he views +with placid satisfaction. It is laid out in several plats, with curving +paths between. In it grow large sweet potatoes, yams, green peas, kidney +beans, some crawling over the ground, others clinging to supporters, +field beans, vetches and tomatoes. The garden is bordered by castor-oil, +manioc, coffee, and tobacco plants. On either side are small patches of +millets, sesamum, and sugar-cane. Behind the house and courts, and +enfolding them, are the more extensive banana and plantain plantations +and grain crops, which furnish his principal food, and from one of which +he manufactures his wine and from the other his potent pombé. +Interspersed among the bananas are the umbrageous fig-trees, from the +bark of which he manufactures his cloth. Beyond the plantations is an +extensive tract left for grazing, for the common use of his own and his +neighbours’ cattle and goats. + +It is apparent that this man loves privacy and retirement, for he has +surrounded his own dwelling and the huts of his family—the cones of +which are just visible above—with courts enclosed by tall fences of +tough cane. While we leave the owner contemplating his garden, let us +step within and judge for ourselves of his mode of life. + +Within the outer court we come to a small square hut, sacred to the +genius of the family, the household Muzimu. This genius, by the dues +paid to him, seems to be no very exacting or avaricious spirit, for the +simplest things, such as snail-shells, moulded balls of clay, certain +compounds of herbs, small bits of juniper wood, and a hartebeest horn +pointed with iron and stuck into the earth, suffice to propitiate him. + +Proceeding from the outer court, we enter the inner one by a side +entrance, and the tall, conical hut, neatly constructed, with its broad +eaves overshadowing the curving doorway, which has a torus consisting of +faggots of cane running up and round it, stands revealed. + +It is of ample circumference, and cosy. On first entering we find it is +rather dark, but as the eye becomes accustomed to the darkness, we begin +to distinguish objects. That which first arrests observation is the +multitude of poles with which the interior is crammed for the support of +the roof, until it resembles a gloomy den in the middle of a dense +forest. These poles, however, serve to guide the owner to his cane bunk, +but their number would confuse a nocturnal marauder or intruding +stranger. The rows of poles form, in fact, avenues by which the inmates +can guide themselves to any particular spot or object. + +The hut, we observe also, is divided into two apartments, front and +rear, by a wall of straight canes, parted in the centre, through which +the peasant can survey—himself being unseen—any person entering. + +In the rear apartment are bunks arranged round the walls for the use of +himself and family. Over the doorway of the hut within may be observed a +few charms, into whose care and power the peasant commits the +guardianship of his house and effects. + +A scarcity of furniture is observable, and the utensils are few in +number and of poor quality. Under the former title may be classed a +couple of carved stools and a tray for native backgammon; under the +latter, some half-dozen earthenware pots and a few wicker and grass +basins. Some bark cloth, a few spears, a shield, a drum, a bill-hook or +two, a couple of hoes, some knobsticks and pipe stems, and a trough for +the manufacture of banana wine, complete the inventory of the household +effects. + +Behind the peasant’s own dwelling are two huts of humbler pretensions, +also surrounded by courts, where we may behold the females of the family +at work. Some are busy kneading the bananas to extract their juice, +which, when fermented, is called _maramba_—delicious in flavour when +well made; others are sorting herbs for broth-food, medicines, or some +cunning charm; others, again, are laying out tobacco-leaves to dry, +whilst the most elderly are engaged in smoking from long-stemmed pipes, +retailing between the leisure-drawn draughts of smoke the experiences of +their lives. + +Such is the kopi at home. + +If the picture is not a faithful one of all his class, it may be +attributed to his own indolence, or to some calamity lately befallen +him. From it will be seen that the average native of Uganda has an +abundance and a variety of good food, that he is comfortably lodged, as +far as his wants require, is well and often married, and is secure from +enemies so far as a powerful sovereign and warlike multitudes can +command security. Still, there is one thing more that is necessary for +his happiness—protection from his sovereign. + +THE “MKUNGU” OR CHIEF. + +It might be supposed that, if a peasant’s lot appears so enviable in +that land, a Mkungu’s or chief’s of the first rank would be happier a +thousandfold. That such is not always the case will be seen from the +following sketch of the present Premier, or Katekiro, of Uganda, whose +name originally, now almost forgotten, was Magassa. It may be proper to +state here that all Waganda, from the Emperor to the peasant, change +their names according as they advance in popular estimation. + +About the time that Mtesa succeeded his father and beheaded the senior +chiefs of Uganda, there was observed at the court a smart, clever, +cleanly looking lad, assiduous in his attendance on the monarch, and +attentive to his smallest wishes. He was the son of a Mtongoleh or +sub-chief, and his name was Magassa. To his other desirable qualities +might be added a fine set of white teeth, bright eyes, and general good +looks. Mtesa became enamoured of him, and made him guardian over the +imperial lavatory, an office of great trust in Uganda. + + ---------------------------------------------------------------- + +[Illustration: HUTS OF EAST CENTRAL AFRICA.] + + 1. Wangwana hut in camp. + 2. Do. do. + 3. Unyamwei hut. + 4. Hut of Karagwé Uddu. + 5. Hut of Uganda. + 6. Small tembé of Ugogo. + + ---------------------------------------------------------------- + +As Mtesa grew to man’s estate, Magassa the boy also became a young +man, for he was about the same age as his master, and, retaining +and improving those qualities which first attracted the monarch’s +eyes, was promoted in time to be a Mtongoleh of the body-guard, and +a double-barrelled gun was put into his hands, with the power of +gunpowder, and a few bullets and percussion caps, which caused the +heart of young Magassa to bound with joy. Perhaps he was even prouder +in the possession of a gun than he was of his rank, for frequently the +Mtongoleh of the body-guard has only the empty name to boast of. + +However, being Mtongoleh (or colonel), he was liable to be despatched at +a moment’s notice to distant parts of the Empire on special service, and +the day came finally when Magassa was chosen. + +Imagine a young British subaltern despatched by the Queen’s command, +specially chosen by the Queen for special service. How the young heart +palpitates, and the nerves tingle with delight! He spurns the ground, +and his head aspires to the stars! If a young British officer feels so +joyful at a constitutional sovereign’s choice, what must the elect of a +despotic autocrat like the Emperor of Uganda, feel? + +No sooner has he left the imperial presence with the proud command +ringing in his ears than his head seems to swell, and almost burst from +delirious vertigo. His back, hitherto bent through long servile dread, +has suddenly become rigid and straight as the staff of his spear, and an +unusual sternness of face has somehow replaced the bland smiles which +hitherto decked it. For is he not “Kabaka” while on the Emperor’s +errand? Do not his soldiers respond to him when summoned with aweful +alacrity, saying, “‘Kabaka’ (Emperor), behold us”? + +Woe to the party from whom offence came if young Magassa was sent with +his warriors to them! And woe to the warrior who committed any breach of +discipline when under Magassa’s command, or even to him who crossed his +humour when on the march on special service! Magassa’s spear was sharp +and swift, and his hands were at all times quick to gather spoil, and +soon it was observed that the poor Magassa was getting rich in slaves, +waxing great in name, and becoming exceedingly influential at court. + +Promotions rewarded his adroitness and quick execution of commands, +lands of his own and bounties of slaves and cattle were bestowed upon +him, until Magassa became a Mkungu, or chief, of the second order. + +Such a spirit as Magassa possessed, however, could not long remain +satisfied with this, while many above him could not boast of a tithe of +his deftness and ability, and were blind to observe and forestall the +humours of the despotic monarch; and a day came when a Mkungu of the +first order, named Pokino, offended Mtesa. + +Casting his eyes about for a fit man to succeed him, Mtesa’s eyes +lighted on the sparkling, bright face of Magassa, and his decision was +at once made. + +“Here, Magassa,” cried the Emperor, and the accomplished courtier fell +at his feet to the ground, to hear his command. “Haste, Magassa, take +men and eat up Pokino’s land and name, for old Pokino has forgotten me.” + +“Twiyanzi, yanzi!” he cried and moaned, “Twiyanzi, yanzi, yanzi!” each +time more emphatic, and rubbing his cheeks in the dust; and then, +springing to his feet, he seized his spear, and, holding it aloft, as if +in the act of launching it, he proclaimed aloud, “By the Emperor’s +orders, I go to eat up Pokino. I will eat him clean out of land and +name, and Magassa shall become Pokino. Emperor behold me!” and again he +fell to the ground, screaming his thankful Twiyanzis, and loyally +abasing himself in the dust. + +After the levee was over, Magassa, eager to change his name for +Pokino’s, beat his war-drum, unfolded his banner, and mustered his +followers, and, like the fell leopard, pounced upon purblind Pokino, +whom he quickly deprived of life, land, and name, and in place of their +former owner became their master. But with even old Pokino’s vast +estates and large possessions the young Pokino was apparently +discontented. Shortly afterwards the Emperor commanded him to “eat up” +Namujurilwa, the Achilles of Uganda, and it is owing to young Pokino’s +thirst for power and riches that Majwara, an infant son of that great +chief, became a slave to Njara of Unyanyembé, from whom I purchased his +freedom in 1871. I afterwards sent him to Livingstone, to whom young +Majwara ministered faithful service until that great traveller’s death. + +With the fall of Namujurilwa, young Pokino became Lord of all Uddu, from +the Katonga valley to the Alexandra Nile, a district embracing over 3000 +square miles, with twenty sub-chiefs recognizing him as their master, +possessing two great capitals, Namujurilwa’s at Masaka, and Pokino’s, +hundreds of women-slaves, and thousands of youthful slaves of both +sexes, with cattle also by the thousand, and chief of a population +numbering over 100,000. What a change this—from the keeper of the +lavatory to the Lord of Uddu! + +Pokino’s life at his capital of Uddu, Masaka, is almost regal. He has +“eaten up” the lands of two great chiefs, old Pokino and the lion-like +Namujurilwa, and now out of the eater cometh forth meat, and out of the +strong cometh forth sweetness. His sub-regal court is crowded with +applicants and claimants for bounties, and slaves requiring to be fed, +and good offices are given with a liberal hand, and cattle are +slaughtered by hundreds, until Pokino’s open hand and large heart is +published throughout Uganda. By this politic liberality he secures the +affection of the natives of Uddu, the friendship of the great chiefs at +the court, and the approbation of the Emperor. + +Is Pokino satisfied? Not yet, for there remains one more office which +Mtesa can give; but he must wait awhile for this. + +The Emperor hears there is a country called Usongora, west of +Gambaragara[29] somewhere, rich in vast herds of cattle, and he commands +Pokino to go and gather some of them. Immediately the great war-drum of +Masaka sounds the call to war, and the natives from the banks of the +Alexandra Nile, the slopes of Koki plateau, and all the lake shore from +the Alexandra to the Katonga respond to it by thousands, for it is a +call to them to gather spoil, and when did a peasant of Uganda linger at +such a summons? + +When Pokino begins his journey, he discovers he has a vast army at his +command, for other chiefs also are represented here by columns. Kitunzi +of the Katonga valley has sent Sambuzi, and Mkwenda, Kangau, and +Kimbugwé have also sent sub-chiefs with hundreds of warriors. Before +Pokino’s great army the people of Gambaragara retire up the slopes of +their lofty snow mountain, and, pursuing them as far as prudence will +permit, Pokino’s eyes view from afar the rolling grassy plateau of +Usongora, and an immense lake stretching beyond, which he is told is +Muta Nzigé. + +Descending from the slopes of the snow mountain, he marches with +incredible speed to Usongora, sweeps in with long sure arms large herds +of cattle, despite the frantically brave natives, collects thousands of +straight-nosed, thin-lipped, and comely women and children, and drives +them towards Uganda. + +Several difficulties present themselves in the way. The plain of +Usongora is covered with salt and alkali, which, intemperately eaten, +causes many deaths; and in the valleys sprout up mud-springs, and from +the summits of conical hills strange fire and smoke issue, and now and +then the very earth utters a rumbling sound, and appears to shake. + +The Wanyoro, also, by thousands, combine with the natives of Gambaragara +to dispute his return. They lay ambuscades for him, and obstinately +harass him night and day. But Pokino’s spirit is up in arms. He defies +the supernatural noises of that Land of Wonders, Usongora, and by skill +and sagacity avoids the meshes laid to entrap him, and, when opportunity +affords, snares his ambushed enemies and annihilates them, and finally +appears in Uganda at the imperial capital with a spoil of cattle and +slaves fit to gladden even the imperial heart. + +The Emperor appoints a day to receive him and his warriors, and, that +meed may be given only to the brave, has caused to be brewed immense +potfuls of potent pombé, which shall serve as a test to point out the +brave and the coward. + +The day arrives. The Emperor is seated in unusual state, with his harem +behind him, his chiefs on either hand in order of rank, his musketeers +on guard, and his drummers and musicians close by, while aloft wave the +crimson-and-white-barred standards adopted by the empire. Before the +Emperor are arranged the pots of test-beer. + +Pokino advances, prostrates himself in the dust, and begins to relate +his adventures and his doings in Usongora, while the heroes of the great +raid are enmassed in view and within hearing of his words. + +After the conclusion of the story, the Emperor says briefly, “Drink, if +thou darest.” + +Pokino rises, advances to the test-pots, receives the ladle, and dips it +into the pombé; then taking it up, he holds it aloft, and, turning to +the warriors who followed him, cries aloud, “Tekeh?” (“Am I worthy or +not?”) + +“Tekeh!” (“Thou art worthy!”) responds the multitude with a shout. + +Again he asks “Tekeh?” and again “Tekeh!” is shouted with renewed +acclamation, and, being found worthy, he drinks, utters his grateful +Twiyanzis to the Emperor, and retires to permit others to advance and +drink the test-beer. Those found worthy are rewarded, those unworthy are +doomed to death by popular condemnation. + +Soon after this, Myanja, the Katekiro, was found guilty of the +overweening pride of appropriating to himself the most beautiful of the +female slaves without regarding his master’s right to select his +allotment first, and the result of this was that Myanja was disgraced +and shortly beheaded. + +The Premier’s place being now vacant, Pokino was appointed to fill it; +and thus was the once humble Magassa elevated to be next in power to the +Emperor, with the utmost of his ambition fulfilled. + +He is now daily seated on the carpet at the right hand of his sovereign, +controls all things, commands all men, and, when leaving the presence of +his master, he is escorted by all the chiefs to his own quarters, +waylaid by multitudes on the road with profound greeting, has the pick +of all females captured in war, the choicest of all cattle, and his +shares of all cloths, beads, wine, and other gifts brought to Mtesa; for +the Katekiro, alias Pokino, alias Magassa, is now Premier, First Lord, +and Secretary of State! But what next? + +One day, while on a visit to my quarters, I permitted him to examine my +store of medicines. On explaining the various uses of laudanum, he +remarked, to my surprise, with a sigh, “Ah! that is the medicine I wish +to have. Can you not spare some for me?” + +Poor Magassa! poor Pokino! poor Katekiro! He is already watching, while +yet young, in the prime and vigour of manhood, for he knoweth not the +hour when the Lord of the Cord may beckon to him. + +It is left for some future traveller to tell us of his interview with +Kasuju, the chief executioner. + + ---------------------------------------------------------------- + + [_To face page 308._ + +[Illustration: RUBAGA, THE NEW CAPITAL OF THE EMPEROR MTESA.] + + ---------------------------------------------------------------- + + THE “KABAKA” OR EMPEROR. + +The curtain rolls up, and discloses a hill covered with tall conical +huts, whose tops peep out above the foliage of plantains and bananas, +and lofty fences of cane. Up the hill’s gradually ascending slopes run +broad smooth avenues, flanked by cane palisades, behind which clusters +of huts show grey under a blazing sun, amid the verdure of the leafy +groves around them. The avenues are thronged by natives, clad in +picturesque costumes. White clothes gleam in the sunshine, in strong +contrast to red and brown. The people are wending their way to the +imperial quarters on the summit of the hill. While no ingress is +permitted, they crowd around the gates in social gossip, exchanging +morning greetings. + +[Illustration: AUDIENCE HALL OF THE PALACE.]] + +Suddenly the murmur of voices ceases, and the long rumbling roll of a +kettle-drum is heard, announcing that the monarch is seated on the +burzah. The gates are at once drawn aside, and a multitude of chiefs, +soldiers, peasants, strangers rush up tumultuously, through eight or ten +courts, towards the audience-hall, and in their noisy haste we may see +the first symptoms of that fawning servility characteristic of those who +serve despots. + +The next scene we have is a section of a straw house, with a gable-roof— +about 25 feet high, 60 feet long, and 18 feet in breadth. + +At the farther end, by the light afforded by the wide entrance, we +perceive the figure of a man clad in an embroidered scarlet jacket and +white skirt seated on a chair, guarded on either side by a couple of +spearmen and two men bearing muskets. The chiefs and principal men now +hastening through the gates bow profoundly before him; some, after the +Muslim’s custom, kiss the palms and back of his right hand; others, +adhering to the original customs of the country, prostrate themselves to +the ground, and, throwing their hands towards him, exclaim, while +kneeling, “Twiyanzi, yanzi!” after which they severally betake +themselves to their respective seats in order of rank. Two long rows of +seated men are thus formed along the caned walls of the hall of +audience, facing towards the centre, which is left vacant for the advent +of strangers and claimants, and the transaction of business, justice, +&c. + +Being privileged, we also enter, and take a seat on the right-hand side, +near the Katekiro, whence we can scrutinize the monarch at our leisure. + +The features, smooth, polished, and without a wrinkle, are of a young +man, who might be of any age between twenty-five and thirty-five. His +head is clean-shaven and covered with a fez, his feet are bare and rest +on a leopard-skin, on the edge of which rests a polished white tusk of +ivory, and near this are a pair of crimson Turkish slippers. The long +fingers of his right hand grasp a gold-hilted Arab scimitar; the left is +extended over his left knee, reminding one of the posture of Rameses at +Thebes. The only natural peculiarities of the face, causing it to differ +from other faces around me, are the glowing, restless large eyes, which +seem to take in everything at a glance. The character of the face, +however, is seen to change rapidly; even in repose it lacks neither +dignity nor power, but as cross thoughts flash through his mind the +corners of the lips are drawn in, the eyes expand, the eyeballs project, +his hands twitch nervously, and the native courtier begins to apprehend +a volcanic outburst of rage. If pleased, however, the eyes appear to +recede and contract, the lips relax their vigour, and soon a hearty +laugh rings through the hall. + +But hush! here advance some ten or twelve people along the centre, and +prostrate themselves before the Emperor, and begin through a spokesman +to tell him of something to which, strangely enough, he does not seem to +listen. + +By means of an interpreter we are informed that it is an embassy from +the lawless bandit Mirambo, who, hearing that Mtesa was likely enough to +send some 50,000 sharp spears to hunt him up, has sent these men with +propitiating gifts, and a humble declaration that he has no cause of +quarrel with Uganda. The gifts are unrolled to view and counted. So many +cloths, so much wire, some half-dozen dinner plates of European make, an +ample brass coffee tray, an Arab dagger silver-hilted, and a scarlet +coat. + +Mtesa has been meanwhile carelessly talking to his chiefs while the +embassy addressed him, but suddenly he turns on the embassy his large +glowing eyes, and speaks quickly and with decision:— + +“Tell Mirambo from me that I do not want his gifts, but I must have the +head of his man who slew my chief Singiri a year ago, as he was +returning from Zanzibar to Uganda, or I will hunt him up with more +Waganda than there are trees in his country. Go!” + +Another party now comes up. A chief is dead, and they wish to know who +shall succeed him, and they have brought his sons along with them, that +the Emperor may make his choice. + +Mtesa smiles and asks his chiefs to name the successor. One names +Bugomba, another Taniziwa, another Kaseje, another Sempa. The chiefs +fail to agree, and Mtesa asks playfully, “Which shall be chief?” +whereupon the majority name Taniziwa as elected, after which we have to +hear the “Twiyanzis” of the favoured one, and his ardent vows of +allegiance to the Emperor. + +Just at this moment appears a long procession of females, old and young, +at the sight of whom the Emperor rises to his feet, and his example is +followed by all. Curious to know who they are, we ask, and are told that +they are descendants of Kamanya and Suna, wards and members of the +imperial family. These ladies, it appears, know when to time their +visits, and contrive to enter the levee late, as European ladies, to +attract attention, are supposed to enter church late. + +As these ladies advance to the carpet, Mtesa greets each with a kind +word, and after they are seated proceeds to them, seats himself in their +laps, and embraces one after another. In return for these imperial +courtesies, they afterwards present him with live fowls, which he is +compelled to receive with his own hands, and pass over to a chief to +hold, that he may not appear to despise any of them. Surely if such a +despotic monarch can condescend to be so affable and kind to females, +there must be some good in him. + +But the Emperor on this morning has caught a cold, and the watchful +chiefs have been observing the little uneasiness, and forthwith +half-a-dozen rush forward prone on their knees, and offer their +head-cloths, into which the imperial nose may relieve itself. + +The Emperor playfully draws back in his chair, and says, “Oh, I don’t +want all these.” + +“Well, take mine,” says one. + +“No, take mine, Kabaka; mine is white, and of fine soft cloth;” and +Mtesa, prevailed upon by the whiteness and softness of the texture, +takes it, and relieves his afflicted nose, and then hands the cloth back +to its owner, who rubs it together hard, as though he wished to punish +well the cause of the affliction. + +Suddenly from some place in the hall is heard a hawking sound, as from +some one likewise afflicted with a cold in the throat, and the eyes of +the Emperor are quickly fixed on the person; but the chiefs cry out +indignantly, “Out, out with you, quick!” and, peremptorily and sternly, +half-a-dozen “lords of the cord” seize upon the unfortunate and eject +him in no gentle manner. + +After this interruption the tones of the native harp are heard, and the +Emperor calls to the minstrel and bids him play on his instrument, which +the accomplished musician is nothing loth to do. But while we listen to +the monotonous music, all are startled at the loud report of a gun! + +A dozen ejaculations are uttered, and as many chiefs rush out to enquire +the cause; but they have been forestalled by the adroit and eager lords +of the cord, who have thrown their nooses round the man’s neck and, half +strangling him, drag him into the Presence, whose imperial nerves have +been somewhat disturbed by the sudden discharge of gunpowder. The lords +of the cord, kneeling, say that the man let his gun fall while on guard, +and their eyes seem to ask, “What shall we do to him?” “Give him fifty +blows with a stick,” cries the angry Emperor, and the unfortunate fellow +is hauled away to receive such a punishment as will lame him for a +month. + +There is now heard a lowing of cattle, of fat beeves and milch-cows, in +the court before the audience-hall, and a man advances, and after +prostration and “Twiyanzis” says he has brought a present from +Mankorongo, king of Usui. + +“H’m. See to them, Katekiro, and give one to my steward Ka-uta to +dress up, and let each chief have an ox to-day, and give ten to my +bodyguard.” At this liberality all the chiefs rush forward, abase +themselves in the dust, and cry aloud their fervid “Twiyanzis.” + +The chiefs resume their seats after this exhibition of their gratitude, +and a messenger arrives from the banks of the Victoria Nile, and +relates, to the monarch’s surprise, that Namionju, a petty prince near +Unyoro, has cast off his allegiance to him, and opened negotiations with +Kabba Rega, king of Unyoro. + +On hearing the messenger’s news, the Emperor exclaims, his eyes +expanding widely, and projecting, “What! are all my people dead at +Nakaranga? Have I no chief, no people left, that Namionju treats me so?” + +The answer is heard in the voices of the chiefs, who spring to +their feet simultaneously and rush out before the entrance of the +audience-hall, seize their spears or walking-sticks, and call aloud on +the Emperor to behold and number his chiefs, and with wild impressive +gestures toss their spears and arms on high until a stranger would +fancy that a revolution had suddenly begun. The Emperor, however, +calmly answers, “It is well,” upon which the chiefs leave their spears +without and regain their seats. + +Then casting his eyes about him, he selects a fiery-looking young chief— +Maoor-ugungu by name—who instantly darts forward from his seat, and +prostrating himself exclaims, “_Kabaka_, I am here.” + +“Go, Maoor-ugungu, take five Watongoleh and their men, and eat up +Namionju and his country.” + +Maoor-ugungu, prompt as tinder upon receiving such an order, utters many +“Twiyanzis,” then springs to his feet, and, seizing a couple of spears +and a shield, throws himself into a heroic attitude with all the ardour +of a true son of Mars, and cries aloud:— + +“Emperor, behold me! The Emperor commands, and Namionju shall +die, and I will gather the spoil. I will eat the land up clean. +Twiyanzi-yanzi-yanzi-yanzi!” and so on _ad infinitum_. + +The Emperor rises. Tori the drummer beats the long roll on his drum, and +all the chiefs, courtiers, pages, claimants, messengers and strangers, +start to their feet. The Emperor—without a word more—retires by a side +door into the inner apartments, and the morning burzah is ended. + +Those curious to know further of the Emperor’s life must pass through a +multitude of sharp-eyed, watchful guards, pages, and executioners, +thronging the court of the audience-hall, into the private courts, many +of which they will find apparently of no use whatever except to ensure +privacy, and to confuse a stranger. + +In one they may see Mtesa drilling his Amazons and playing at soldiers +with his pets. They are all comely and brown, with fine virginal bosoms. +But what strikes us most is the effect of discipline. Those timid and +watchful eyes which they cast upon the monarch to discover his least +wish prove that, though they may be devoted to him, it is evident that +they have witnessed other scenes than those of love. + +In another court, perhaps, they may find Mtesa just sitting down to eat +a slight noon meal, consisting of ripe bananas and curded milk; or they +may find him laughing and chatting with his favourite wives and female +children, who all sit around him, seeming to govern their faces +according to the despot’s humour; or perhaps he may happen to be found +with a favourite page examining the contents of the treasure-house, +where the gifts of various travellers, European, Turkish, and Arabic, +are stored; or he may be engaged with Tori, his factotum, planning some +novelty, in the shape of a waggon, carriage, ship, or boat, or whatever +the new fancy may be which has taken possession of his mind. + +THE LAND. + +Having learned somewhat through these sketches of the character of the +peasant, the chief, and the monarch, it now remains for us to take a +view of the land in order to understand its extent, nature, and general +aspect. + +The form of the Empire governed by Mtesa may be best described as a +crescent. Its length is about 300 geographical miles, and its breadth +about 60, covering—with the islands of Sessé, Lulamba, Bufwe, Sadzi, +Lulamha, Damba, Lukomeh, Iramba, Irwaji, Kiwa, Wema, Kibibi, Uziri, +Wanzi, Uruma, Utamba, Mwama, Ugeyeya, Usamu, and Namungi—an area of +30,000 square miles. If we reckon in also Unyoro, Ukedi, and Ankori, +which recognize Mtesa’s power, and pay tribute to him, though somewhat +irregularly, we must add a further area of 40,000 square miles, making +the total extent of his empire about 70,000 square miles. + + ---------------------------------------------------------------- + + [_To face page 314._ + +[Illustration: + + MTESA’S AMAZONS. + (_From a photograph by the Author._) +] + + ---------------------------------------------------------------- + +Some estimate of the population ought also to be offered. But it is to +be understood that it is only a rough estimate, made by a traveller who +has had to compile his figures by merely taking into consideration the +number of the army assembled at Nakaranga, and enumerating districts and +villages alone; the line of his travels. + + Countries and Districts. Population. + Uganda proper (from Ripon Falls) to Katonga river 750,000 + Uddu 100,000 + Bwera 30,000 + Koki 70,000 + Usoga 500,000 + Ukedi 150,000 + Unyoro 500,000 + Usagara or Ankori 200,000 + Karagwé 150,000 + Usui 80,000 + Uzongora, including Ihangiro and Bumbireh 200,000 + Sessé Island 20,000 + Uvuma 15,000 + All other islands 10,000 + ————— + 2,775,000 + ========= + +This number gives about thirty-eight persons to the square mile +throughout the empire of Uganda. + +The productions of the land are of great variety, and, if brought +within reach of Europeans, would find a ready market—ivory, coffee, +gums, resins, myrrh, lion, leopard, otter, and goat[30] skins, +ox-hides, snow-white monkey-skins, and bark cloth, besides fine cattle, +sheep, and goats. Among the chief vegetable productions are the papaw, +banana, plantain, yams, sweet potatoes, peas, several kinds of beans, +melons, cucumbers, vegetable marrow, manioc, and tomatoes. Of grains, +there are to be found in the neighbourhood of the capital wheat, rice, +maize, sesamum, millets, and vetches. + +The soil of the lake coast region from the extremity of Usogo to the +Alexandra Nile is of inexhaustible fertility. The forests are tall and +dense, and the teak and cottonwood, tamarind, and some of the gum trees +grow to an extraordinary height, while many of the lower uninhabited +parts near the lake are remarkable for the density, luxuriance, and +variety of their vegetation. + +The higher land, for the most part devoid of trees and covered with +grass, appears better adapted for pasture, though the plantain and fig +trees flourish on the summit of the hills with the same vigour as near +the lake. + +Westward of the smooth, rolling, pastoral country which characterizes +the interior of Usoga and Uganda, we observe that the land has lost its +surface of pasture grass, and its gently undulating character, and +heaves itself upwards into many-headed hills of rugged, abrupt forms, +and as we penetrate farther, these hills become mountains of a +stupendous type, with summits which, except on a fine clear day, the +naked eye cannot define. Deep, deep valleys, from whose depths we hear +the roar of resounding cataracts and falls, sunder these lofty +mountains. Upon their lengthy slopes great masses of glistening white +rock are seen half embedded in débris, where they have remained since +they were severed from the parent mountain which raises its head so +proudly into the sky above. + +Beyond this scene again we come to where the land appears to have +concentrated itself, and fused all lesser mountains and hills into one +grand enormous mass, the height and size of which dwarfs all hitherto +seen, and which, disdaining vulgar observation, shrouds its head with +snow and grey clouds. + +Indeed, so gradual is the transition and change in the aspect of +the land from Lake Victoria to Beatrice Gulf that one may draw this +one-hundred-miles-wide belt into five divisions of equal breadth, +and class them according to the limits given above. Let us imagine +a railway constructed to run from one lake to the other—what scenes +unrivalled for soft beauty, luxuriance, fertility, and sublimity would +be traversed! + +Starting from the sea-like expanse of the Victoria Lake, the traveller +would be ushered into the depths of a tall forest, whose meeting tops +create eternal night, into leafy abysms, where the gigantic sycamore, +towering mvulé, and branchy gum strive with one another for room, under +whose shade wrestle with equal ardour for mastery the less ambitious +trees, bushes, plants, llianes, creepers, and palms. Out of this he +would emerge into broad day, with its dazzling sunshine, and view an +open rolling country, smooth rounded hills, truncated cones, and bits of +square-browed plateaus, intersected by broad grassy meads and valleys +thickly dotted with ant-hills overgrown with brushwood. Few trees are +visible, and these, most likely, the candelabra or the tamarisk, with a +sprinkling of acacia. As some obstructing cone would be passed, he would +obtain glimpses of wide prospects of hill, valley, mead, and plain, easy +swells and hollows, grassy basins, and grassy eminences, the whole +suffused with fervid vapour. + +These scenes passed, he would find himself surrounded by savage hills, +where he would view the primitive rock in huge, bare, round-backed +masses of a greyish-blue colour, imparted to them by moss and lichens, +or large fragments flung together as in some Cyclopean cairn, sundered +and riven by warring elements. At their base lie, thickly strewn, the +débris of quartz-veined gneiss and granite and iron-coloured rock, half +choking the passage of some petty stream, which vents its petulance, as +it struggles through it to gain the clear, disencumbered valley, and the +placid river, guarded by banks of slender cane and papyrus. + +And then the traveller would observe that the valleys are gradually +deepening, and the hills increasing in height until suddenly he +would be ushered into the presence of that king of mountains, Mount +Gordon-Bennett, which towers sheer up to the azure with a white veil +about his crown, surrounded by clusters of savage heights and ridges, +and before whose indisputable sublimity his soul seems to shrink. +Escaping from the vicinity of this mountain monarch, he would be swept +over a brown parched plateau for a short hour, and then, all suddenly, +come to a pause at the edge of an awful precipice some 1500 feet in +depth. At the bottom of this, slumbering serenely, and reflecting the +plateau walls on its placid surface, lies the blue Muta Nzigé. + + GENERAL REMARKS. + +I have still to add some details of interest. Mtesa, in the preceding +introduction to the reader, playing the part of Emperor at a public +burzah, has still only a vague and indistinct personality, and so, to +complete the portrait, I venture to append the following remarks. + +On first acquaintance, as I have already said, he strikes the traveller +as a most fascinating and a peculiarly amiable man, and should the +traveller ever think of saving this pagan continent from the purgatory +of heathendom, the Emperor must occur to him as of all men in Africa the +most promising to begin with. For his intelligence and natural faculties +are of a very high order, his professions of love to white men great, +and his hospitality apparently boundless. Had he been educated in +Europe, there can be little doubt but that he would have become a worthy +member of society; but nursed in the lap of paganism, and graduate only +in superstition and ignorance, he is to-day no more than an +extraordinary African. + +Flattering as it may be to me to have had the honour of converting the +pagan Emperor of Uganda to Christianity, I cannot hide from myself the +fact that the conversion is only nominal, and that, to continue the good +work in earnest, a patient, assiduous, and zealous missionary is +required. A few months’ talk about Christ and His blessed work on earth, +though sufficiently attractive to Mtesa, is not enough to eradicate the +evils which thirty-five years of brutal, sensuous indulgence have +stamped on the mind: this only the unflagging zeal, the untiring +devotion to duty, and the paternal watchfulness of a sincerely pious +pastor can effect. And it is because I am conscious of the insufficiency +of my work, and his strong evil propensities, that I have not hesitated +to describe the real character of my “convert.” The grand redeeming +feature of Mtesa, though founded only on self-interest, is his +admiration for white men. + +When the traveller first enters Uganda, his path seems to be strewn with +flowers, greetings with welcome gifts follow one another rapidly, pages +and courtiers kneel before him, and the least wish is immediately +gratified, for to make a request of the Emperor is to honour him with +the power of giving. So long as the stranger is a novelty, and his +capacities or worth have not yet been sounded, his life in Uganda seems +to be a sunshiny holiday. + +Meanwhile, however, the pages, pursuivants, messengers, and courtiers +have been measuring him by rules and methods of their own. His faculties +have been calculated, his abilities keenly observed and noted, and his +general utility and value become accurately gauged, and all the time he +has been entertained royally, and courted and favoured beyond all his +expectations. + +But now approaches the time for him to make return, to fulfil the +promise tacitly conveyed by his ready and friendly acceptance of gifts +and favours. He is surprised by being asked if he can make gunpowder, +manufacture a gun, cast a cannon, build a ship, or construct a stone or +a brick house. If a priest ordained, and his garb and meek, quiet +behaviour prove it, his work is ready cut for him; he has only to teach +and preach. But if a soldier, why should he not know how to make guns, +cannon, ships, brick houses, &c.? If he informs the Emperor that he is +ignorant of these things, why then he must pay in other coin. He has +guns with him, he must “give”; he has watches, “give”; he has various +trifles of value, such as a gold pencil-case, or a ring, “give”; he +wears good clothes, “give”; he has beads, cloth, wire, “Give, give, +give”; and so “give” to his utter beggary and poverty. If he does not +give with the liberality of a “Speki” or a “Stamlee,” who will +henceforth be quoted to his confusion and shame, there will be found +other ways to rid him of his superfluities. His men will be found +unfaithful, and will desert, attracted by the rewards of Mtesa and +glowing descriptions of his liberality, and one day, when he is about to +congratulate himself that he is more fortunate than others, he will find +himself suddenly bereft of half or three-fourths of his entire stock of +goods. If the traveller states that he is acquainted with a few arts, he +is expected to prove his words to the loss of his time and patience, and +the waste of many precious months; even then what little he has been +able to do with such lazy knaves as the Waganda will prove insufficient, +and he also, by craft, will be relieved of a few guns and bales. + +From these exactions only the resident missionary would be exempt, +because he will be able to make ample amends for all deficiencies by +staying to teach and preach, and he in time would, in reality, be the +Emperor. To him Mtesa would bend with all the docility of a submissive +child, and look up with reverence and affection. The peculiar wayward, +petulant, inconsistent nature would become moulded anew, or be re-born, +to be presented henceforth to European travellers in an amiable, nay +loveable, aspect. Mtesa is the most interesting man in Africa, and one +well worthy of our largest sympathies; and I repeat that through him +only can Central Africa be Christianized and civilized. + +It will be observed that I have styled Mtesa “Emperor” of Uganda, and +not king, like my predecessors Speke and Grant. But my readers may +remember that it has been mentioned in the brief sketch of the Premier +given above that all the Waganda, from the Emperor to the peasant, +change their titles and names according as they are estimated in the +popular consideration. + +Before Suna’s death Mtesa was a Mlangira (prince); when he succeeded his +father, being yet young, he received the title of Mukavya or Mkavya +(king) of Uganda, but after he had distinguished himself in the conquest +of other kings, and won the imperial right, this title was changed for +Kabaka or Kawaka (Emperor). For the Empire of Uganda, as already +described, embraces several countries besides Uganda proper. + +I was not aware of these several distinctions or grades until I had been +a long time resident at the court. The title of Mkama, again, such as +that of Mkama Rumanika of Karagwé, Mkama Mankorongo of Usui, is +synonymous with viceroy or sub-king, though literally translated it +means “lord.” Polite courtiers prone on the ground, abasing themselves +in the dust before Mtesa, will often address him as “Mkama ange” (my own +lord). + +The children of Mtesa are all styled Ulangira (princes). Below this +title there seems to be no other designation of hereditary condition +save Kopi (peasant). Wakungu and Watongoleh alike are peasants born, and +therefore still peasants, though they may rank as chiefs and sub-chiefs, +or governors and lieutenant-governors, or generals and colonels. Thus +Mtesa at Nakaranga, when he was pleased to promise to reward him who +first landed at Ingira Island with the place of Katekiro, asked the +assembled chiefs, “For what is Pokino really? Is he not a peasant?” + +The moral character of the people is far below that of the Emperor. +Indeed, if it were not for him, no stranger would dare to enter Uganda. +They have no respect for human life or human rights. Among themselves +they recognise only might, and Mtesa might even be pardoned for +exercising greater severity than he does, for this fierce people +requires to be governed with the almost unexampled severity of might and +power which Suna so cruelly employed. They are crafty, fraudful, +deceiving, lying, thievish knaves, taken as a whole, and seem to be born +with an uncontrollable love of gaining wealth by robbery, violence, and +murder, in which they resemble—except that they have the lawless +instinct to a greater degree than most—nearly all African tribes. Owing, +however, to their terror of punishment, the stranger is permitted to +wander in almost certain safety throughout Uganda, and is hospitably +treated as the “Emperor’s guest” (Mgeni). One has only to hear the word +“Nganya” (spoil) given by a person in authority to be surprised at the +greed there and then exhibited. + +The adage has long been accepted for true, “Like father like son,” and +equally true would be the saying, “Like king like people.” The conduct +of the chiefs proves that in Uganda at least it is true, for, like the +Emperor, they adopt a despotic style, and require to be served by their +inferiors with abject servility and promptitude. Like him, also, the +chiefs are fond of pomp and display, and, as far as their rank and means +permit, they exhibit this vanity to the utmost. + +Thus, the monarch has always about two score of drummers, a score of +fifers, half a score of native guitar-players, several mountebanks, +clowns, dwarfs, and albinoes, a multitude of errand-boys, pages, +messengers, courtiers, claimants, besides a large number of bodyguards +and two standard-bearers, either following or preceding him wherever he +goes, to declare his state and quality. The chiefs, therefore, have also +their followers, standard-bearers, and pages, and so on down to the +peasant or cowherd, who makes an infantile slave trot after him to carry +his shield and spears. + +In person the Waganda are tall and slender. I have seen hundreds of them +above 6 feet 2 inches in height, while I saw one who measured 6 feet 6 +inches. Of course the native Waganda must be distinguished from +strangers and slaves and their descendants imported from conquered +lands, and generally they differ from these by their more pleasing looks +and more agreeable features. This last, however, may be attributed to a +general love of cleanliness, neatness, and modesty, which pervades all, +from the highest to the lowest. A naked or immodest person is a +downright abomination to a follower of Mtesa’s court, and even the +poorest peasants frown and sneer at absolute nudity. + +It has been mentioned above that the Waganda surpass other African +tribes in craft and fraud, but this may, at the same time, be taken as +an indication of their superior intelligence. This is borne out by many +other proofs. Their cloths are of finer make; their habitations are +better and neater; their spears are the most perfect, I should say, in +Africa, and they exhibit extraordinary skill and knowledge of that +deadly weapon; their shields are such as would attract admiration in any +land, while the canoes surpass all canoes in the savage world. + +The Waganda frequently have recourse to drawing on the ground to +illustrate imperfect oral description, and I have often been surprised +by the cleverness and truthfulness of these rough illustrations. When +giving reasons firstly, secondly, and thirdly, they have a curious way +of taking a stick and breaking it into small pieces. One piece of a +stick delivered with emphasis, and gravely received by the listener in +his palm, concludes the first reason, another stick announces the +conclusion of the second reason, until they come to the “thirdly,” when +they raise both hands with the palms turned from them, as if to say, +“There, I’ve given you my reasons, and you must perforce understand it +all now!” + +Nearly all the principal attendants at the court can write the Arabic +letters. The Emperor and many of the chiefs both read and write that +character with facility, and frequently employ it to send messages to +one another, or to strangers at a distance. The materials which they use +for this are very thin smooth slabs of cotton-wood. Mtesa possesses +several score of these, on which are written his “books of wisdom,” as +he styles the results of his interviews with European travellers. Some +day a curious traveller may think it worth while to give us translations +of these proceedings and interviews. + +The power of sight of these natives is extraordinary. Frequently a +six-guinea field-glass was excelled by them. Their sense of hearing is +also very acute. + +It is really wonderful into how many uses the ingenious savage of these +regions can convert a simple plant. Regard the banana-plant, for +instance. At first view, in the eyes of the untaught civilized man, it +seems to be of no other use than to bear fruit after its kind, for the +stalk of it cannot be employed as fuel, and its fronds soon fade and +wither and rend, and unless the savage pointed out its various uses, I +fear the civilized man would consider it of slight value. It is, +however, of exceeding utility to the native of Uganda. + +1. Its fruit, green or ripe, forms his principal food. When green, the +Waganda peels his bananas, folds them carefully up in the form of a +parcel, enclosed in green banana-leaves, and, putting a small quantity +of water in his pot, cooks them with the steam alone. This mode of +cooking green bananas renders them floury in appearance, and, in taste, +most sweet and palatable. When ripe, they form an admirable dessert, +and, taken in the morning before coffee, serve with some constitutions +as an agreeable laxative. + +[Illustration: + + MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS. + + 1. Kinauda. 2. Whistle of Ubujwe. 3. Caravan horn of guide. + 4. Drum of Uzimba. 5. Flute of kopi or peasant. 6. Drum of + Uganda. 7. Guitar of Usoga. 8. Great war-drum of Uganda. + 9. Guitar of Uganda. 10. One-stringed banjo of Unyamwezi. +] + +Of the banana proper, there are several varieties, each distinguished by +a special name, just as the European gardener distinguishes his several +varieties of potatoes. Some are 3 inches in length, with deep green +coats, and seem fat with matter. Others, 6 inches in length, and of a +lighter green colour, are considered the best; others are short, plumpy +fruit, great favourites also. There is another species, known by a dark +point, rather bitter to the taste and unfit for food, but specially +reserved for the manufacture of wine, for which it alone is adapted. + +2. The fruit of this latter species furnishes the natives with the +maramba, a honey-sweet, cider-flavoured wine, and, when mixed with a +little millet, sweet beer also. When fermented and perfect, the latter +is a potent liquid, and a quart suffices to disturb the equilibrium of +many men; but there are old topers, like Prince Kaduma, who would toss +off a gallon and be apparently only slightly elated after it. A small +draught of maramba taken at dawn I found beneficial to the system. + +3. The banana-fronds serve as thatch for houses, fences for enclosures, +and as bedding. They are also used to protect milk, water, and flour +vessels from dust and impurities, are employed as table-cloths, on +which food is spread, and, like newspapers or brown paper, are used +as wrappers for gifts of eatables, such as ripe bananas, butter, +meat, eggs, fish, &c., while they serve daily and universally as +pudding-cloths in the Kiganda households. The cool, thick shade +afforded by a banana plantation is well known. + +4. The stems are sometimes used for fences and defensive enclosures; +they are also frequently employed as rollers, to move heavy logs, or for +the transportation of canoes overland from point to point, when the +strategies of war demand it. The pith or heart of the stalk is scraped +and made into sponges of a dough-cake pattern, and may be seen in almost +all Kiganda lavatories. Frequently the indolent prefer to knead a fresh +sponge-cake and make their ablutions with this to going to the river, +lake, pond, or well, or troubling themselves to fetch a vessel of water. + +The fibres of the stalk are used as cord, and are adapted for almost +every purpose for which cord is useful. The poorest peasants make rough +but serviceable shields also from the stalk, while the fishermen of the +lake make large sun-hats from it. Many other uses might be mentioned, +but the above are sufficient to prove that, besides its cool agreeable +shade, the banana-plant will supply a peasant of Uganda with bread, +potatoes, dessert, wine, beer, medicine, house and fence, bed, cloth, +cooking-pot, table-cloth, parcel-wrapper, thread, cord, rope, sponge, +bath, shield, sun-hat, even a canoe—in fact almost everything but meat +and iron. With the banana-plant, he is happy, fat, and thriving; without +it, he is a famished, discontented, woe-begone wretch, hourly expecting +death. + +[Illustration: + + NGOGO FISH. + + 10 inches long, 3 inches deep; scaleless; horn at each shoulder; two + long thick filaments on upper lip, four on lower. Found in Speke + Gulf, Lake Victoria. +] + +----- + +# 29: + + This part of Pokino’s history was related to me by Pokino himself, + Kitunzi, Sambuzi, and his page. + +# 30: + + The white goats of Usoga are like the famous Angora goats, with fine + silky hair from 4 to 8 inches in length. + + + + + CHAPTER XVI. + + TO MUTA NZIGÉ AND BACK TO UGANDA. + +The ladies of Mtesa’s family—Sambuzi ordered to take me to Muta Nzigé—My + last evening with Mtesa—_En route_ for Muta Nzigé—Sambuzi suffers from + “the big head”—We come to an understanding—The white people of + Gambaragara—War music—Through a deserted country—Sinister auguries—A + cowards’ council of war—Panic in the camp—Sambuzi announces his + intention of deserting me—The flight when none pursued—The “Spoiler” + eaten up—Mtesa tries to persuade me to return—At Kafurro. + + +_Oct. 29._—On the 29th of October Mtesa and his grand army arrived at +the old capital of Ulagalla. There was but little demonstration made to +welcome the monarch from the war, except what was made by the females of +the imperial household, who were mustered in strong force under the +leadership of Nana Mazuri, the Emperor’s mother, a venerable old lady of +decidedly masculine mind, and of a revengeful and fierce disposition. + +The Emperor honours his mother greatly, and bestowed hearty embraces +on her and on the ancient relicts of Suna his father, who were also +brought to meet him and to do him honour, and to receive the son of +heroic Suna as became their respect for him and their awe of his rank +and power. Lu-lu-luing and welcomes and fond smiles were the order of +the day; a great drinking of maramba wine and potent beer followed; and +musketry salutes, killing of beeves and goats, and interchanging of +presents, closed the day of the return to the capital. + +After allowing a few days to transpire for rest, I began to recall to +the Emperor’s mind the original purpose of my visit to him, and of his +promise to conform to my request. He consented to my departure, and +kindly permitted me to make my own choice out of his chiefs for the +leader of the force which was to give its aid to our Expedition for the +exploration of the country between Muta Nzigé and Lake Victoria. I +selected Sambuzi, a young man of thirty years of age or thereabouts, +whose gallantry and personal courage had several times been +conspicuously displayed during the war with the Wavuma, and whose rank +and station guaranteed a force strong enough to withstand, if well +managed, a greater power than the king of Unyoro—then at war with Gordon +Pasha—could conveniently despatch to oppose us. + +[Illustration: + + DESCRIPTION OF THE ILLUSTRATION.—1. East Manyema spear. 2. Urundi, + Karagwé, and Uhha spear. 3. Unyoro shield. 4. Uregga knife. 5. Rua + knife. 6. Uvuma and Usoga knife. 7. Manyema knife. 8. Uregga knife. + 9. Uganda knife. 10. Ukerewé knife. 11. Clubs and walking stick. 12. + Ordinary spear of Unyamwezi. 13. Uregga spear. 14. Uganda macheté. + 15. Manyema shield. 16. Uhyeya billhook. 17. Uganda shield. 18. + Unyamwezi billhook. 19. Usongora and Bumbireh shield. 20. Usongora + and Bumbireh macheté. 21. Manyema spear. 22. Uganda spear. +] + +Mtesa, admitting that Sambuzi was a wise choice, stated with the usual +exaggeration of an African or an Oriental that he should have 5000 +warriors, and all the chiefs at the levee concurred with him. On my +request to him that he would repeat, clearly and within hearing of all, +his commands to Sambuzi, Mtesa called the chief to him, who, while +prostrate on the ground, received the following command in a loud and +clear voice:— + +“Sambuzi, my guest Stamlee is going to Muta Nzigé. He has asked that you +should lead the Waganda to the lake, and I have consented. Now listen to +my words. Nearly all the white men who have accepted my people as escort +complain that the Waganda gave great trouble to them. Let me not hear +this of you. I shall send messengers to Kabba Rega to inform him of your +object, and command him to abstain from molesting you. Now go, muster +all your men, and I shall send four sub-chiefs with 1000 men each under +Watongoleh to assist you. Do whatever Stamlee advises or suggests should +be done, and by no means return to Uganda until you have absolutely +performed my commands. If you do return without Stamlee’s letter +authorizing you to abandon the project, you will dare my anger. I have +said.” + +“Thanks, thanks, thanks, oh, thanks, my lord!” Sambuzi replied, rubbing +his face in the dust. Then standing up, he seized his spears, and, +levelling them, cried out: “I go at the Emperor’s command to take +Stamlee to the Muta Nzigé. I shall take Stamlee through the heart of +Unyoro to the lake. We shall build a strong boma, and stay there until +Stamlee has finished his work. Who shall withstand me? My drum shall be +sounded for the muster to-day, and I shall gather all the young men of +the Katonga valley under my flag! When Sambuzi’s flag is seen, the +Wanyora will fly and leave my road white and free, for it is _Kabaka_ +who sends him, and Sambuzi comes in the name of _Kabaka_! Thanks, +thanks, oh, many thanks, my lord, my own dear lord!” + +The eve of my departure was spent in conversation with the Emperor, who +seemed really sorry that the time had arrived for a positive and final +leave-taking. The chief subject of conversation was the Christian +church, which had just begun to be erected, where the rites of the +Church were to be performed by Dallington after the style and manner +shown to him by the Universities mission at Zanzibar, until one more +worthy to take his place should arrive. + +We went together over the grounds of the Christian faith, and Mtesa +repeated to me at my request as much as he knew of the advantages to be +gained by the adoption of the Christian religion, and of its superiority +to that of Islam, in which he had first been taught. By his remarks he +proved that he had a very retentive memory, and was tolerably well +posted in his articles of belief. At night I left him with an earnest +adjuration to hold fast to the new faith, and to have recourse to prayer +to God to give him strength to withstand all temptations that should +tend to violate the commandments written in the Bible. + +Early next morning my convert sent me many presents as tokens of his +esteem, such as four shields, sixteen spears, twelve knives, ten +billhooks, six walking-sticks, twelve finely prepared skins and furs of +wild animals, 20 lbs. of myrrh, four white monkey-skins, ten beeves, +sixteen goats, bananas and beer and wine, and an escort of one hundred +warriors to proceed by the lake to Dumo. + +For our mutual friend Lukongeh, king of Ukerewé, he sent at my request +five long tusks of ivory, one comely virgin of fifteen as a wife +suitable for a king, being of the beautiful race of Gambaragara, also 20 +lbs. of fine iron wire, six white monkey-skins, and one large new canoe, +capable of carrying fifty men. + +For my friend the king of Komeh Island and the lake shore of Uzinja he +sent the same, and distributed beeves among the ambassadors from the +king, whom I had brought to receive these presents. + +From myself I sent to my kind friend Lukongeh one bale of assorted +cloth, two coils of brass wire, 60 lbs. of fine beads, and two suits of +blue and red flannel, besides a plush velvet rug. + +Happy that I had so prospered despite the vexatious delay which was +unavoidable, and that I had been able to do even more than I had +promised to the kings of Ukerewé and Komeh, I set out from Ntewi with +twenty large canoes full of Waganda warriors, five canoes for my own +special escort, two to escort the embassy of Ukerewé home, two to escort +the embassy of Komeh home, and eleven to open trade by the lake route, +with Unyanyembé viâ Kagehyi—also a suggestion of mine. + +On the same day that I set out from Ntewi, Sambuzi led a thousand men +from Ulagalla overland to our rendezvous on the Katonga river, where he +was to be joined by the Expedition from Dumo, and the four sub-chiefs +Sekajugu, Mkoma, Kurji, and Ngezi. + +Our party proceeding by the lake were hospitably entertained at Nakavija +by the grand admiral of Mtesa, Gabunga, and by Jumba, vice-admiral at +Unjaku, with beeves, milk, wine, beer, bananas, tomatoes, and sweet +potatoes. + +At Ujaju our india-rubber pontoon was condemned, and a new and light +canoe was substituted for it, and named the _Livingstone_, to take to +Muta Nzigé to assist the _Lady Alice_ in the exploration of that lake. + +After four days’ coasting we arrived at Dumo, and greeted the Expedition +after an absence of three months and five days. Frank Pocock had enjoyed +splendid health, and the soldiers showed by their robust forms that they +had lived on the best in Uddu, and that the Emperor’s commands +respecting them had not been neglected. All this time they had been +sustained free of cost to me, and I could not find it in my heart to +return the Waganda escort back to the Emperor without some token of my +gratitude, and accordingly I made up a present of four bales of cloth, +and 140 lbs. of choice beads, besides various other presents. + +A few days sufficed to reform the Expedition, repack all loads, and to +prepare the boat, which had now seen nearly nine months of rough service +on Lake Victoria, for transport overland to Muta Nzigé. + +The _Livingstone_ canoe was also taken to pieces, and made into portable +loads for the journey. This canoe was 23 feet long, 34 inches wide, and +2 feet deep, and was formed of four long planks and one keel-piece sewn +together with cane fibre, which, with the thwarts and bow-piece, formed +light portable loads for seven men. + +On the seventh day after my return to Dumo we began the march towards +the general rendezvous of the exploring army on the Katonga river. We +journeyed through Uddu in a north-north-westerly direction, until, +striking the Kyogia river, we followed the course of that tributary of +the Katonga river as far as Kikoma, when we crossed the stream and +entered the country of Bwera, which lies parallel to Uddu, and extends +from Koki westward of Uddu as far as the Katonga river. + +At Kikoma we were compelled to come to a halt until Sambuzi was informed +of our arrival, and guides could be obtained from him to lead us to the +rendezvous. + +Meanwhile I took advantage of the halt to hunt game and to obtain +meat-provision for the expedition. During the five days of our halt +here I was so fortunate as to shoot fifty-seven hartebeest, two zebra, +and one water-buck. The abundance of game in this wild debatable +district, and the immunity they enjoy from man—in consequence of the +numerous lions and leopards, and also the neighbourhood of raiders +from the hostile country of Ankori—was the principal cause of my great +success. The first day I set out I bagged five fine animals within +a few minutes, which astonished not only the Waganda body-guards of +Mtesa, but also myself. + +We heard of lions as being abundant in the neighbourhood of Kikoma, but +though I roved far into the wilderness west of Kikoma, I never saw the +slightest trace of either lions or leopards. + +The arrival of guides from “General” Sambuzi broke up our halt, and +caused us to resume our march, and the second day brought us to the +Katonga river, or rather lagoon, for I could detect no running water. +The bed of the Katonga is about half a mile wide, choked with spear +grass and papyrus, with stagnant water 3, 4, and even 7 feet deep in +some places. + +The crossing of the Katonga consumed an entire day, and was effected by +means of the _Lady Alice_, which had to be forced through the dense +reeds. At Ruwewa, on the north bank of the Katonga, Sambuzi’s delay +caused us another halt of five days, which was a sore tax on my +patience, and but little in accordance with either my hopes or Mtesa’s +instructions. However, we were so far entered into the enterprise, and +were now so remote from any other possible means of advance, that we had +to console ourselves with the reflection that “what cannot be mended +must be borne,” though mentally I cruelly condemned our dilatory +general. The landscape between Dumo and the Katonga river presents +smooth, rounded, hilly ridges separated by broad, grassy valleys dotted +with ant-hills and scantily clothed with brushwood. It is a fine +pastoral country, eminently suited for grazing, but in the absence of a +sufficient population it is a famous haunt for noble game, so +unsuspicious as to be easily accessible to a tolerable shot. In the +uninhabited portions of the country few trees are seen, save the rugged +euphorbiæ. + +The eye here commands many views of extensive prospects of rolling +country, of grassy hills and grassy valleys, following one another in +regular series. + +As we all enjoyed unusual good health during our journey through this +country, one could not help fancying that it was to the far-receding +prospects opening on every side that we owed much of our healthfulness. +It was certain that the blood flowed quicker, that the eye kindled with +brighter light, and that we breathed more freely when we stood on one of +those high, commanding grassy ridges and somewhat fondly compared the +land to others we had seen elsewhere, where fever and ague were not so +prevalent. + +To describe Uddu and Bwera in detail would be a tedious task, for there +is much sameness of outline in hill and valley, swell and hollow, ridge +and basin, but viewed as a whole from the summit of any eminence, there +is something really noble and grand in the survey. + +I observed that the parts inhabited by the Waganda are, as a rule, the +ridges and tabular summits of the hills, and that the hollows and basins +are left for grazing purposes to the roving Wahuma shepherds. + +On the sixth day after our arrival at Ruwewa, in the district of +Kahwangau, we marched to Laugurwe, where we met—as courtiers had +pre-informed us—General Sambuzi with a thousand men. We camped half +a mile off from the general, occupying an entire village, from the +plantations of which we were at liberty to help ourselves to our +hearts’ content. Sambuzi’s force occupied the villages north of us. + +In the afternoon I called to pay my respects to the general, for common +sense informed me that the best way of attaining the objects in view was +to pay the utmost possible attention to the failings of this African +general, and to observe all ceremony and politeness towards him. + +During the war with Uvuma, while I was a constant and honoured attendant +at the morning levee of the Emperor, Sambuzi had occupied with his force +the ground in rear of our detachment, and this chief had then courted my +friendship most assiduously. This in fact was one of the reasons why I +had made choice of him, and preferred his name to Mtesa. But when I now +saw him, I found his behaviour to be an overacted imitation of the +Emperor, without the monarch’s courtliness and kindliness of manner. + +As I entered the court, which had been constructed with a view to +enhance his dignity, if space can be said to increase dignity, I +observed that the general stood up from amongst his subordinates and +stiffly maintained that position until I grasped him by the hand, when +he managed to utter a faint greeting in response to mine. + +I was not altogether unprepared for this result of his promotion; still +it chilled me, angered me a little, I must confess, and induced me to +ask him if anything was wrong. “No,” he said, “nothing was wrong.” + +“Then why are you so stiff with your friend?” I asked. “Do you not like +the idea of going to Muta Nzigé? If you regret your appointment, I can +apply for another man.” + +“My liking or not liking the journey will not alter the command of +_Kabaka_,” he replied. “I have received my commands to take you to Muta +Nzigé, and I will take you there. I am not a child, I am a man, and my +name is known pretty well in Unyoro, for the Wanyoro and Wasongora have +felt the sharpness of my spear, and it is not likely that they can turn +me back before I bring you to the lake. I stand in the place of _Kabaka_ +now, for I represent him here, and the army is under my command. +Sambuzi, your friend at Uvuma, is changed now to Sambuzi the general. +You understand me?” + +“Perfectly,” I answered. “I have a few words to say in reply, and you +will then understand me as well as I understand you. I wish to go to +Muta Nzigé lake. So long as you take me there and do exactly as the +Emperor has commanded you, you shall have as much honour and respect +from me as though you were the Emperor himself, and besides that you +shall have so rich a reward that the Katekiro of Uganda himself will +envy you. With your mode of marching and camping I have nothing to do so +long as we are in Uganda, but when we enter Unyoro, I would advise you +as a friend, since we are about to enter the country against the will of +the people, that you keep the army together, that one camp be made and +good positions occupied, and that when any trouble threatens us, you do +not act without the advice of others, able and willing to give advice. +That is all.” + +“It is well,” he said, “we understand one another now. We will march by +slow degrees as far as the frontier, that the other chiefs may have time +to come up, and you shall then judge for yourself whether the Waganda +know how to march.” + +Considered as we would consider of things European, Sambuzi could not be +blamed for assuming dignity, and I therefore excused what otherwise +might be called gross behaviour on his part. Sambuzi’s force would be +quite twenty times stronger in numbers than mine, and he was my only +means of pushing through Unyoro. Prudence counselled me therefore not to +let false pride be an obstacle to the accomplishment and success of the +enterprise, and I determined to listen to its counsel. + +Our journey to Kawanga, on the frontier of Uganda, was along the north +bank of the Katonga, through an open rolling country, cut up frequently +by watercourses which feed the Katonga. These watercourses, though +called rivers, show no running stream, but only river-like marshes or +broad “rush drains,” choked with spear-grass and papyrus of the same +nature as the Katonga. North or south of the Katonga, at the distance of +ten miles or so, the land rises rapidly, and here numerous streams of +clear, sweet water take their origin, but in their descent to the +Katonga valley they become united and absorbed by great breadths of +river-like marshes, the oozy contents of which are drained by the broad +lagoon-like Katonga.[31] It maintains this character until near the base +of a low hill which separates the feeders of Muta Nzigé from those of +Lake Victoria. The crest of this hill is not more than 250 feet above +the bed of the Katonga, and it is not more than two miles from its +eastern to its western base, yet along the eastern base curves the bed +of the Katonga from the north-west, and along the western rushes the +Rusango, from the foot of Mount Lawson southward towards the Muta Nzigé. + +Except in the vicinity of the Katonga there is scarcely one square mile +of level ground to be seen. Our eyes dwelt everywhere on grassy hollows, +slopes, and ridges, and the prospect each day was bounded by lines of +blue hills, which, as we progressed westward, assumed mountainous +altitudes. + +At Kawanga, when Sambuzi’s force had been all collected, our army +consisted of fighting-men as follows:— + + The _Daily Telegraph and New York Herald_ expedition 180 + Sambuzi, general 1000 + Mkoma, colonel 250 + Ngezi, colonel 250 + Sekajugu, colonel 450 + Mrowla, captain 100 + Kurji, captain 40 + ——— + 2270 + Mtesa’s bodyguards under Sabadu (sergeant) 20 + ——— + Total 2290 + +Following this little army there were about 500 women and children, +giving a grand total of nearly 2800 souls. + +With Colonel Sekajugu were four men of Gambaragara, who were of a +remarkably light complexion, approaching to that of dark-faced +Europeans, who differed altogether in habits and manners from the +Waganda. They possessed their own milch-cows, and their diet appeared to +consist entirely of milk. The features of these people, besides their +complexion, were so regular and remarkable that my curiosity was aroused +to the highest pitch concerning them. I had seen stray representatives +of these people at the court of Mtesa, but I had not the opportunity +then that I had now to enquire definitely about them. I here set down, +as I was told, what I gathered respecting them, both from their own lips +and those of Colonel Sekajugu, who was the best informed of the Waganda. + +These light-complexioned, regular-featured people are natives of +Gambaragara—a country situated between Usongora and Unyoro. Gambaragara +embraces all the immediate districts neighbouring the base of the lofty +Mount Gordon-Bennett, upon the summit of which snow is often seen. We +caught a view, as we travelled through Unyoro, of this lofty mountain, +which lay north-westerly from Western Benga, in Unyoro; but the distance +was too great for me to describe it exactly. It appeared to be an +enormous and blunted cone about 14,000 or 15,000 feet high. + +According to Sekajugu, the mountain springs up in a series of terraces +from a level plain; numerous waterfalls plunge down its steep slopes, +and two days are usually occupied in the ascent to the highest summit. +The king, Ny-ika, with his principal chiefs and their families, live +during war-time on the highest part of the mountain, which appears to +be, from report, something like an extinct crater. They described it to +me as a hollow surrounded by high walls of rock, which contains a small +round lake, from the centre of which rises a lofty columnar rock. It is +very cold there, and snow frequently falls. The slopes, base, and summit +are thickly populated, but though powerful in numbers, the courage and +skill of the people in war are much derided by the Waganda, who speak of +them as preferring to take refuge in caves, and on the summits of almost +inaccessible rocks, to venturing into the open for a fair fight. + +Though probably inferior in courage to the Waganda, they must have +distinguished themselves in war at one time, otherwise I cannot account +for the brave and warlike people of Usongora being the subjects of +Nyika, king of Gambaragara. + +This king possesses several villages in different parts of the mountain, +and appears to move from one to another, as his numerous herds of cattle +become stinted in their pasture. Milk being the principal diet of these +people, it may be supposed that cattle are abundant in Gambaragara and +Usongora. The Katekiro of Uganda in his great raid on this region is +said to have collected “50,000” head of cattle. General Sambuzi +accompanied him during that famous time, and has often amused my leisure +hours with lively descriptions of his adventures. + +The people are a peculiarly formed race. At one time they are said to +have been all white, and to have emigrated from Northern Unyoro, but at +the present time the black and light-complexioned are about equal in +numbers. The blacks are the result of successive wars during ancient +times and intermarriages between the captors and captives, the result +being a singularly long-limbed and slender-bodied people. The royal +family and the chiefs’ families continue to preserve their +exclusiveness, and hence it is that the original colour of the founders +of the state has been preserved. The women are said to be singularly +beautiful; I have seen several of them, and though I will not call them +beautiful, as we understand the term in Europe and America, they are +superior to any women I have seen in Africa, and have nothing in common +with negroes except the hair. They are said also to be entrusted with +the keeping of the charms of Kabba Rega, and to be endowed by hereditary +right with the privilege of priests of the Muzimu of Unyoro. + + ---------------------------------------------------------------- + + [_To face page 336._ + +[Illustration: MARCHING THROUGH UNYORO: MOUNT GORDON-BENNETT IN THE +DISTANCE.] + + ---------------------------------------------------------------- + +To my disappointment I heard of nothing that would lead me to suppose +they were superior to their less favoured neighbours in manners or +customs or their ways and means of life. + +_Jan. 1._—On New Year’s Day, 1876, the exploring army, nearly 2800 +strong, filed out from under the plantain shades of Kawanga, each +detachment under the flag of its respective leader, and each known by +the particular style of music adopted by the great chief to whom it owed +martial service. Thus Sambuzi’s own force could be distinguished at a +great distance by a peculiar strain, which, as the Waganda explained, +announced, “Mta-usa, Mta-usa is coming!” or, “The Spoiler, the Spoiler +is coming!” Lukoma’s bands of music in the same way rang out, “Mkoma, +Lukoma is near!” “Look out for Lukoma!” Sekajugu’s name, on the other +hand, appeared after the style of ding-dong-bell, or drawn out into +“Se-ka-ju-gu, Sekajugu!” + +On emerging from under the shelter of our plantain-embowered camp, +we were drawn up in a long line along the narrow road. Sekajugu was +appointed to take the advance, Lukoma the rear, Sambuzi and the +Anglo-American Expedition the centre, while the smaller detachments, +under Colonel Ngezi, Mrowla, and Kurji, took positions on the right +and left, to keep the main column undisturbed by ambuscades. There was +no time lost in these arrangements, and at sunrise the great drum of +Sambuzi gave the signal for the march. At noon we occupied a deserted +camp, known as the Salt Bunder, on the Nabutari river, which separated +Unyoro from Uganda. The heights on the opposite side were observed to +be manned by many Wanyoro. + +With the eastern bank of the Nabutari, or Nabwari, river terminated the +soft pastoral scenes among which our route had lain ever since leaving +Dumo, on Lake Victoria, for from the western bank began a more rugged +country, which, as we proceeded westward, daily assumed a more +mountainous character. The country resolved itself into mountain masses +of great altitude—bare and serrated hilly ridges, isolated craggy hills, +separated by a rolling country, whose surface often presented great +sheets of ironstone rock, mixed with fragments of granite. Each day’s +march presented two or three mountains of unusual height, which, +dwarfing all others, became of great service to us in taking bearings +and laying down a correct route. + +_Jan. 2._—On the 2nd of January we crossed the Nabutari, or Nabwari, +river, and entered hostile Unyoro, and, undisturbed, made a march of ten +miles, occupying at the end of it several villages in Southern Ruoko, +Unyoro. Had we not been informed of the change, we should have +recognised at once the fact that we had entered into a new country, by +the difference in the construction of the huts, and in the vegetables +which formed the principal subsistence of the natives. While in Uganda +bananas formed our principal food—and very good, wholesome, and +digestible they proved—throughout Unyoro our diet consisted of sweet +potatoes and salt, varied with such other vegetables as foraging could +obtain. + +It was an amusing scene to see the haste with which the several +detachments rushed about to dig up their rations. It appeared at first +glance as if we had brought the exploring army to recultivate Unyoro, so +thickly strewn and so busy were the diggers over the village fields. The +digging was continued until sunset, and such quantities of potatoes came +to camp that I fancied something like a desire to plunder the Wanyoro +animated our people. + +In the meantime our advance was unchecked, and our occupation of +Southern Ruoko unmolested; Sambuzi and Sekajugu drew from this sinister +auguries. “The Wanyoro,” said they, “must be mustering elsewhere to +oppose us; for usually, when we make a raid on this country, the natives +hail us from the hill-tops, to learn the motive of our coming; but now +the country is all silent and deserted; not one native can be seen.” +They therefore determined to send out spies in all directions, to +ascertain the feeling of the natives respecting our strange invasion of +their country; and in order to give time to obtain correct information, +a halt was ordered for the next day. + +_Jan. 5._—On the 5th January the various musical bands and war-drums +announced another march. The Waganda being unencumbered with baggage, +except such bedding, mats, and superfluous robes as their women carried, +marched quickly, and tasked the heavily loaded expedition greatly; but +my people did not fail me; they had long ago been thoroughly drilled for +such occasions as the present, and they kept step and pace with the +lightly equipped Waganda. The men who carried the boat-sections and +canoe raced like horses, and arrived soon after the advanced-guard at +camp. Traversing the district of South Ruoko, we plunged into an +uninhabited tract of mountain country, and, after a march of eleven +miles, camped at Kazinga, in Eastern Benga. + +_Jan. 6._—The next day we crossed the Katonga, for our course was now +westerly, and occupied Western Benga, from the summit of a tall hill in +which we obtained a faint view of an enormous blue mass afar off, which +we were told was the Great Mountain in the country of Gambaragara. I +named it Gordon-Bennett, in honour of my American chief. + +[Illustration: MOUNT EDWIN ARNOLD.] + +Our foragers here obtained for the first time a sight and hearing of +some natives, who shouted out that we might proceed without fear, though +they doubted our ability to return, unless we took wings like birds and +flew aloft. Some hiding-places of the natives were also discovered by +accident amongst the tall grass beyond the fields. A little way from the +village we found many deep pits, with small circular mouths, which +proved, on examination, to lead by several passages from the mouth of +the pit to more roomy excavations, like so many apartments. These +underground dwellings are numerous in Southern Unyoro. + +_Jan. 8._—After a march of sixteen miles through a wild country we +camped, on the 8th of January, on the east bank of the Mpanga river. +This stream takes its rise near the base of Mount Gordon-Bennett, and, +flowing a few miles to the east of the lofty hump of Mount Edwin Arnold, +is met by the Rusango river, flowing north-west from Mount Lawson, in +the district of Kibanga, in Ankori; the two streams then, united, rush +with impetuous force a little north of west, and, after several falls, +plunge into Beatrice Gulf. Mount Edwin Arnold, of an altitude of some +9000 feet above the sea, stood west of our camp, on the Mpanga, at the +distance of six miles. + +We had now left Unyoro proper and entered Ankori, or Usagara. An old +dilapidated wooden enclosure denoted that this extreme corner of Ankori +was sometimes visited by Wasagara herdsmen for the sake of pasture. + +The average altitude of our several camps since leaving the Victoria +Lake did not exceed 4600 feet; but as we drew west, the nights were +bitterly cold. On the night of the 7th the thermometer fell to 53° +Fahr., and on the night of the 8th to 55° Fahr., this cold temperature +being, no doubt, caused by night winds from Gordon-Bennett Mountain. +Fogs, rivalling the famed November fogs in London, prevailed as a rule +every morning, rendering the earlier part of each day damp, +disagreeable, and cheerless. It was so thick that a man’s form could not +be seen at the distance of fifty yards, and horn and drums alone guided +us on our march. During the afternoons the atmosphere slightly cleared, +and the sun, struggling in the western skies from behind deep banks of +sullen clouds, endeavoured to announce to us that the day was far spent. + +_Jan. 9._—On the 9th of January, 1876, the drums sounded for the march +two hours before sunrise, for we had a long journey before us, and +Uzimba, the country of chief Ruigi, was to be entered on this day. + +Until daylight we journeyed along, or not far from, the Rusango, its +many falls, rapids, and cascades telling of the rapid rush and furious +plunge of the river towards Muta Nzigé. Dawn found us in a singularly +wild and beautifully picturesque country, the Switzerland of Africa. + +Peaks, cones, mountain humps, and dome-like hills shot up in every +direction, while ice-cold streams rolled between riven and dismantled +rocks or escaped beneath natural bridges of rock, with furious roar. +These gritty sandstone obstructions to the Rusango’s waters presented +most distorted and eccentric forms, appearing often like masses of +scoriæ. The traces of some agency, which long ago had convulsed this +region, were visible in what appeared to be the wreck of mountains. The +strata were perpendicular, seams of white quartz travelled along the lay +of the strata in some places, and in others it appeared to have been +encased in round moulds, which the impetuous waters, with their +ceaseless wear and tear, had worn through, sweeping away the quartz, and +leaving large hollows, cavities, and fissures in the sandstone. A small +tributary of the Rusango from the south ran over a bed of polished +basalt, which likewise contained large veins of quartz. + +Soon after noon the main column arrived at the centre of a dip in the +Uzimba ridge, 5600 feet above the sea, whence, far below us, we viewed +the fields, gardens, and villages of the populous country of King Ruigi. +But the sudden advance of the vanguard amongst the surprised natives, +with banners flying and drums beating, had depopulated for the time the +fair, smiling country, and left a clear, open road for the main body. +Had the natives known of our approach, they might have reaped a rich +harvest of revenge amongst the laggards in the rear, for the long march +of nineteen miles had irremediably dissolved the hitherto compact +Expedition into small knots of dispirited and tired stragglers. One +fellow, named Andrew, of the British Mission at Zanzibar, had thrown his +load down, and plunged into the bushes to sleep his weariness off, and a +rescue party of twenty men had to be sent back five miles from camp to +hunt up news of him, and they, fortunately, saved him, though menaced by +a band of natives. Some sick Waganda fell victims in the evening to the +wrath of a roving party of the natives, who had been disturbed in mind +by our presence. + +Our descent into the fields of Uzimba was so unexpected that the +inhabitants were utterly ignorant of our character and country. As they +ran away, they asked the advance guard why the king of Ankori had sent +his people to their country, and warned them that the next day they +would come to fight. At night, however, the great war-drum of General +Sambuzi revealed far and wide the character of the force, and announced +that the Waganda were amongst them. + +A council of all the chiefs and leaders of our Expedition was held next +day, at which it was resolved to send out that night 200 men to capture +a few prisoners, through whom we could communicate our intentions to +Ruigi of Uzimba, and Kasheshé, king of Unyampaka, which country bordered +the lake west of Uzimba. As the lake was only four miles distant, it +became necessary to know how we were regarded by the natives, and +whether we might expect peaceful possession of a camp for a month or so. + +Some ten prisoners were captured, and, after receiving gifts of cloth +and beads, were released, to convey the news to their respective chiefs +that the Waganda had brought a white man, who wished to see the lake, +and who asked permission to reside in peace in the country a few days; +that the white man intended to pay for all food consumed by the +strangers; that he would occupy no village, and injure no property, but +would build his camp separate from the villages, into which the natives, +having food to sell, were requested to bring it, and to receive payment +in cloth, beads, brass, or copper, assured that, so long as they offered +no cause, and kept the peace, they should receive no annoyance. An +answer, we said, was expected within two days. + +_Jan. 11._—On the 11th of January we left the villages of Uzimba, and +marched to within a mile of the edge of the plateau,[32] at the base of +which, about 1500 feet below, lay the lake. True to our promise, we +occupied no village, but built our camp on the broad summit of a low +ridge, whence we commanded a clear, open view of our neighbourhood. The +Expedition occupied the lake end of the ridge, while the Waganda +occupied the centre and eastern end. On the southern and northern sides +the hill sloped down to open grassy hollows. No trees or other +obstructions impeded our command of the approaches. The Waganda camps +were surrounded by huts, the doors of which turned outwards, whence +night and day the inmates could observe, without being observed. + +_Jan. 12._—The next day an answer was brought that the inhabitants were +not accustomed to strangers, and did not like our coming into their +country; that Uzimba and Unyampaka belonged to Unyoro; that as the king +of Unyoro was fighting with white men, how could the white man come +behind him and expect peace? that our words were good, but our purposes, +they were assured, were none the less wicked; and that we must, +therefore, expect war on the morrow. + +[Illustration: + + HOUSE AND WOODEN UTENSILS OF UZIMBA AND ANKORI. + 1. Wooden stool. 2. Wooden milking vessel. 3. Wooden stool. 4. Wooden + goblet. 5. Wooden porridge dish. 6. Wooden porridge plate. 7. Wooden + milking vessel of Ankori. 8. Wooden bowl. 9. Earthenware cooking + pot. 10. Earthenware cooking pot. 11. Earthenware water vessel. 12. + Wooden dish. 13. Wooden cup. 14. Wooden family banana and sweet + potato dish. 15. House in Uzimba. 16. Wooden water vessel of Uzimba. + 17. Wooden bowl of Uzimba. +] + +This answer was brought by about three hundred natives, who, while they +delivered their message, were observed to have taken precautions not to +be caught at a disadvantage. Having announced their object, they +withdrew in the direction of Mount Uzimba. + +This declaration of war unsettled the nerves of the Waganda chiefs, +principally the inferior chiefs and the bodyguards of Mtesa, and a +stormy meeting was the result. Sabadu and Bugomba, the brother of the +Premier, used their utmost eloquence to persuade Sambuzi to return; +while Sekajugu and Lukoma cunningly held out strong reasons why they +should, return immediately. At the same time they said they were quite +willing to stay by Sambuzi to the death. + +The danger of a panic was imminent, when I begged that Sambuzi would +listen to a few words from me. I explained to him that, though we were +only a bullet’s flight from the Nyanza, we had not yet seen the lake, +and that Mtesa had ordered him to take me to the Nyanza; that, before we +had even looked for a strong camp, we were talking of returning; that, +if they were all resolved to return, I required them to give me two days +only, at the end of which I would give them a letter to Mtesa, which +would absolve them from all blame; that, in the meantime, five hundred +of the Waganda and fifty of my people should be sent out to select a +path to the lake by which the boat, canoe, and loads could be let down +the plateau wall without injury, and to endeavour to discover, on their +arrival at the lake, whether canoes were procurable, to embark the +expedition. This advice pleased the chiefs; and, as no time was to be +lost, at 8 A.M. five hundred Waganda and fifty of our Expedition were +sent, under Lukoma and Manwa Sera, my captain, to the lake, with +instructions to proceed cautiously, and by no means to alarm the natives +of the lake shore. I also led a party of fifty men to explore the +plateau edge for a feasible and safe descent to the lake. The lake lay +below us like a vast mirror, tranquil and blue, except along the shore, +which was marked with a thin line of spluttering surf. The opposite +coast was the high ridge of Usongora, which I should judge to be about +fifteen miles distant, though the atmosphere was not very clear. +Usongora bounds Beatrice Gulf westward. + +At noon Lukoma and Manwa Sera returned from the lake and reported that +it would be a difficult job to lower the boat down the precipice of 50 +feet, which marked the first descent to the lake, without long and +strong ropes; that the natives in passing up from the salt market on the +lake hoisted their salt-bags, well wrapped in bull-hides, up the +precipice; that no man could either descend or ascend with a load on his +back, as he required the use of both his hands for the climbing. They +also reported that they could only find five small fishing canoes, which +would be perfectly useless for the transport of men or goods on the +lake. Great stores of salt had been seen, which had come from Usongora, +and abundance of Indian corn, millet, sweet potatoes, bananas, and +sugarcane had also been seen on the lake shore. + +This unwelcome news infused a fever in the minds of the Waganda to be +gone on the instant. Large numbers of natives, posted on the summit of +every hill around us, added to the fear which took possession of the +minds of the Waganda, and rumours were spread about by malicious men of +an enormous force advancing from the south for the next day’s fight. +This urged the Waganda to pack up large stores of sweet potatoes for +their return journey through the wilderness of Ankori. The members of +the Expedition even caught the panic, and prepared in silence to follow +the Waganda, as common-sense informed them, that, if a force of over +2000 fighting men did not consider itself strong enough to maintain its +position, our Expedition consisting of 180 men could by no means do so. +They were observed openly preparing for flight, before any commands had +been issued to that effect, or even the alternative had been discussed. +Others wandered off to mix with gadding crowds of Waganda, well disposed +in mind to participate in their fears. + +The Wangwana captains of the Expedition, extremely depressed in +spirit, came to me in the afternoon, and requested to know what I had +determined upon. I informed them that I hoped to be able to bribe +Sambuzi with one-fourth of the entire property of the Expedition to +stay by us two days, during which time I hoped to be able to lower the +boat and canoe down the cliffs, and launch them on the Nyanza, by which +I could free sixty soldiers from encumbrances, to act as guard for the +land party. The boat and canoe would follow the coast line, to act as +auxiliaries to the land party, in case of attack, or to transport them +across rivers, until we should arrive in the neighbourhood of some +uninhabited island, to which place of safety the Expedition might be +conveyed, until exploration should discover more peaceable lands or +other means of prosecuting our journey. The captains approved this +method of meeting the danger which threatened us. + +At 5 P.M. a messenger from Sambuzi called me to a council, at which all +of his chief men were present, to discuss what advantages we possessed +for offence and defence, for meeting the danger or for flight. Sabadu +the captain of the detachment of Mtesa’s bodyguard with us, was called +upon to speak, which he did with all the cowardly malice of a Thersites. +Every hint that could damp a virtuous resolution to obey Mtesa’s +commands was thrown out with all the effect that his position as chief +of the bodyguard and his supposed influence with the Emperor lent his +opinions, and he confidently assumed the power to charm away the anger +of his dread master, and turn it upon the head of Kabba Rega, the king +of Unyoro. Bugomba, the brother of the Premier of Uganda, though only a +lad of sixteen, having far more influence in this council, and far more +ability than would possibly be believed by Europeans, seconded Sabadu in +an assumed humble voice, and what Sabadu had neglected to urge, youthful +Bugomba, the Emperor’s page, adroitly threw in, and thus clenched the +argument for absolute and immediate flight. + +The council heard him with great approval, and many were of the opinion +that it would be best to fly at once, without waiting for night or for +morning. Lukoma and Sekajugu, the colonels under Sambuzi, gravely +besought Sambuzi to think well of the numbers that would certainly +oppose us in the battle next day; to remember that we were far from +assistance, if overcome; that all the advantages of war were on the side +of the enemy. The enemy would fight on his own soil, and mindful that he +was fighting for his own home. If repulsed the first day the enemy would +come again in greater numbers than ever, and each day, as the bruit of +war should spread and time gained, the whole strength of Unyoro, a +country as large as Uganda, would be drawn to dislodge and massacre us. +However, Sambuzi, was their general and chief, and if he thought it best +to stand by “Stamlee,” they would stand by their chief to the death. + +Sambuzi then asked me to speak. Wrath almost choked my speech, for I +felt bitterly angry that I should be asked to speak when they were all +so resolved to act contrary to the object and purpose of the journey +that even fear of the Emperor was not sufficient to induce them to stay, +and that a chief like Sambuzi, of such experience and acknowledged +bravery, should stoop to listen to boys like Bugomba and such men as +Sabadu. However, I summoned up my patience, and said: “I do not see much +use in my saying anything, because I know you will act against all +advice I can give; but, that you may not blame me for not giving the +advice, and pointing out the danger you run into in returning, I will +speak. You, Sambuzi, at Laugurwe, told me you were not a child, but a +man. If you are a man how comes it that you allow a boy like Bugomba, +whose fears have run away with his wits, to speak in a council of tried +warriors such as I see here? Do you think that Bugomba can save your +head when the Emperor hears of your cowardly flight? No; that boy’s love +which he professes to have for you, will fly when he sees the frown on +Mtesa’s face. Will the Katekiro stand by you because you love his +brother Bugomba? No; the Premier will scourge Bugomba, and be the first +to slay you. If you are a man and a chief, why is it that you listen to +this slave Sabadu, who no more dares approach the footstool of Mtesa +than he would dare meet the Wanyoro to-morrow in battle? Is Sabadu the +chief and general of the Waganda, or is it Sambuzi, the chief who fought +so well at Uvuma? If your chiefs, Lukoma and Sekajugu, advise you to run +away, you do wrong to listen to them, for it is not they whom Mtesa will +punish, but you. I therefore, as your friend, advise you to stay here +two days, while I fix the boat and canoe. At the end of two days I will +write a letter to Mtesa, which will absolve you from all blame; and if +you so far concede to me two days, I will give one-fourth of my moneys— +nay, I will give one-half of all beads, wire, and cloth I have to you, +with which you may reward yourself and your friends. Be not afraid of +the Wanyoro; to-night we can build a palisade so strong that, were Kabba +Rega himself here, he could do nothing against us. There is no great +danger in staying a couple of days, but in returning to Uganda without +my letter you go to certain death. I have spoken.” + +After a little pause, during which he interchanged some remarks with +his people, Sambuzi said: “Stamlee, you are my friend, the Emperor’s +friend, and a son of Uganda, and I want to do my duty towards you as +well as I am able to; but you must hear the truth. We cannot do what +you want us to do. We cannot wait here two days, nor one day. We shall +fight to-morrow, that is certain; and if you think I speak from fear, +you shall see me handle the spear. These people know me from past +times, and they are well aware that my spear is sharp and fatal. We +shall fight to-morrow at sunrise, and we must cut our way through the +Wanyoro to Uganda. We cannot fight and continue in camp; for once the +war is begun, it is war which will last as long as we are alive—for +these people take no slaves as the Waganda do. Then the only chance for +our lives that I see is to pack up to-night, and to-morrow morning at +sunrise to march and fight our way through them. Now tell me as your +friend what you will do. Will you stop here, or go with us, and try +another road? For I must tell you, if you do not know it and see it for +yourself, that you will never put your boat and the canoe on the Nyanza +at this place. How can you get your boat down the cliffs while you +are fighting, and thousands pressing round you? Even if you reach the +water’s edge, how can you work on her two days, and fight?” + +To his questions I replied:—“I knew what your decision would be from +what the Waganda have done on former occasions. When Magassa was sent +with me to Usukuma by the lake, he ran away and left me to fight +Bumbireh alone. When the Waganda were sent with Abdul Assiz Bey (M. +Linant de Bellefonds) to Gondokoro, they followed him as far as Unyoro, +and when they saw the Wanyoro coming, they deserted him, and stole +nearly all his boxes, and Abdul Assiz Bey had to fight his way to +Gondokoro alone. We white men will soon learn that there is no man so +cowardly as a native of Uganda. For your advice I thank you; to-night I +will give you my answer.” + +As soon as I left the council, Sambuzi caused the great war-drum to be +sounded for the morrow’s march and expected battle. It also announced to +the anxious members of the Expedition that the Waganda had resolved to +return. On arriving at camp, I saw looks of dismay on each face. I +called Pocock and the captains of the Expedition, and proceeded to +unfold our position and Sambuzi’s intention to return, described to them +what dangers environed us, and what hopes were left, and then asked them +to give their own opinion of the matter freely. + +After a long hesitation and silence the gallant and ever faithful +Kachéché spoke and said:—“Master, I do not know what my brothers here +think of the matter, but I see plainly that we have been brought to the +edge of a deep pit, and that the Waganda will push us into it if we do +not follow them. For my part, I have nothing further to say, except that +I will do exactly as you command. Live or die, all is one to me. If you +say, let us go on, and leave the Waganda to return without us, I say so +also; if you say, return, I also say, return. That is my opinion. But I +would like to ask you, if we determine to go on by ourselves, have we +any chance at all of being able to start from this camp, because I see +we are surrounded by natives bent on war? If all these Waganda with our +help are not able to make our position good, how can such a small party +as we are hope to do so? This is what is in my heart, and what I believe +is the cause of the panic in the Expedition. And I will tell you one +thing; when Sambuzi beats the drum to-morrow to march, more than half of +this Expedition will follow him, and you cannot prevent it.” + +“Well,” I replied, “this is my decision. I was sent to explore this +lake. When I started from Usukuma, I doubted if I could do it unaided by +Waganda, because there are no people on this lake friendly to strangers; +it was for this reason I requested Mtesa to lend me so large a body of +men. As no friendly port could be found where you might rest while I +navigated the lake in my boat, I thought of taking possession of a port +for a month or two and holding it. The force I relied on now fails me, +and the people are hostile; it therefore only remains for me to return +with Sambuzi, and to try the lake by another road. If no other road can +be found, we must even be content with what we have done.” + +The Wangwana outside heard the decision with joy, and shouted, “Please +God, we shall find another road, and the next time we go on work of this +kind we shall do it without Waganda.” + +Sambuzi was made acquainted with our resolution, and requested to send +twenty men to assist our wearied men to carry the goods back to Uganda. +At dawn we mustered our forces, and with more form and in better order +than we had entered Unyampaka, prepared to quit our camp on the cliffs +of Muta Nzigé. A thousand spearmen with shields formed the advanced +guard, and a thousand spearmen and thirty picked Wangwana with shields +composed the rear-guard. The goods and Expedition occupied the centre. +The drums and fifes and musical bands announced the signal for the +march. + +The natives, whom we expected would have attacked us, contented +themselves with following us at a respectful distance until we were +clear of Uzimba, when, perceiving that our form of march was too compact +for attack, they permitted us to depart in peace. + +Our return route was to the southward of that by which we had entered +the lake-land of Uzimba. It penetrated Ankori, and our camp that day was +made at 4 P.M. on the banks of the Rusango river. + +_Jan. 15._—On the morning of the 15th, after crossing a low ridge, two +miles in width, we crossed the Katonga coming from the north-west, and +entered Unyoro once more. Our Expedition was the rear-guard this day, +and when within a few miles of Kazinga, in Benga, a furious attack was +made on our rear from an ambuscade, which was in a short time repulsed +without loss to us. + +_Jan. 27._—On the 27th we were encamped at Kisossi, in Uganda, a little +east of where Sambuzi had joined us with his force. At this camp we +parted; Sambuzi, or Mta-usa, the Spoiler, to his own land close by, I to +what fortune, or misfortune, had still reserved in store for me and +mine. The “Spoiler” made his cognomen good, for on the road from the +lake he despoiled me of 180 lbs. of variously assorted beads, by failing +to return three loads of beads given him for carriage to Uganda, thus +adding another reason to my dissatisfaction with him. + +I halted at Kisossi three days to give the Expedition a little of that +rest they so well deserved. During this time I despatched Kachéché and +two others with a letter to Mtesa, wherein I did not fail to report to +him of the failure of Sambuzi to perform what he had promised me, of his +theft of three bags of beads, and of the strange conduct of Sabadu and +Bugomba. + +The effect of my letter on Mtesa and his court, Kachéché informed me a +few days later, when he overtook us at Charugawa, was one of shame, +surprise, and rage. Kachéché was called to the Durzah, and told to +repeat in a loud voice all that had happened between Sambuzi and myself +since we had met at Laugurwe, while Mtesa and his chiefs listened +intently, the recital broken by violent exclamations and ominous +ejaculations from the Emperor. + +When Kachéché had ended, Mtesa said, “Do you see now how I am shamed by +my people? This is the third time I have been made to break my word to +white men. But, by the grave of Suna” (a strong oath in Uganda), “my +father, I will teach Sambuzi, and all of you, that you cannot mock +Kabaka! Stamlee went to this lake for my good as well as for his own, +but you see how I am thwarted by a base slave like Sambuzi, who +undertakes to be more than I myself before my guest. When was it I dared +to be so uncivil to my guest as this fellow has been to Stamlee? You, +Saruti,” he said suddenly to the chief of his bodyguard, “take warriors, +and eat up Sambuzi’s country clean, and bring him chained to me.” + +Saruti prostrated himself, and swore he would eat the “Spoiler’s” land +clean, and become the “Spoiler” himself, and that Sambuzi should be +brought to him chained like a slave. Yet let it be noted here that +Saruti and Sambuzi were as loving at the Nakaranga camp as two sworn +brothers. + +“And you, Katekiro,” said Mtesa, turning his glowing eyes on him, “how +is it that your brother Bugomba—a mere little boy—plays the great man on +duty? Tell me whence he obtained this ‘big head’ of his?” + +“My lord” (“Mkama ange”), “Bugomba is a child, and deserves a rod for +this conduct, and I myself will see that he suffers for it.” + +“Very well, send for Bugomba, and that long-tongued Sabadu, and bring +them to me at once, and I will see that they never use their tongues +against a guest of mine again.” + +“Now, Kachéché,” said Mtesa, “what is Stamlee going to do now? Do you +suppose that, if I give him 100,000 men, under Sekebobo and Mkwenda, +that he will be induced to try the lake Muta Nzigé again?” + +“He may, Kabaka, but I do not think he will believe the Waganda again, +for this is twice they have deceived him. Magassa ran away, and Sambuzi +ran away, and he, perhaps, will say Sekebobo will do the same. The +Waganda are very good before you, Kabaka, but when away from you they +forget your commands, and steal people, cattle, and goats,” said +plain-spoken Kachéché. + +Sekebobo and Mkwenda sprang to their feet before the Emperor, and said +loudly, “Nay, let us go, Kabaka, and we will cut through the heart of +Kabba Rega of Unyoro, or through Mtambuko, king of Ankori, to the Muta +Nzigé, and all the nations round about shall not drive us back!” + +“It is well,” said the Emperor. “Now you, Dallington,” said he to the +English mission pupil left at his court, “write a letter to Stamlee. +Tell him to come to the Katonga once again, and Sekebobo and Mkwenda +with 60,000, even 100,000, shall take him to Muta Nzigé, and stay there +until he has finished his work. Tell him that if these fail him he shall +execute his own pleasure on every chief that returns to Uganda.” + +At Charugawa, near the Alexandra Nile, I received Dallington’s letter, +asking me to return and attempt the lake once more.[33] This letter +plunged me into perplexity, but after long and calm deliberation I +decided that it was not safe to trifle away time in this manner; +besides, such an undisciplined force would be uncontrollable, and would +no doubt entail misery on the people. I was also too far from Muta Nzigé +now, and to return for an uncertainty, such as the character of the +Waganda caused me to believe it to be, despite the protestation and +promises of the Emperor, was in my opinion well deserving a fool’s cap. +I accordingly wrote to this effect to Mtesa, and closed the letter with +thanks for his kindness, and a friendly farewell. + +Kachéché, on returning from the capital with the Emperor’s letter met +the unfortunate Sambuzi loaded with chains, and the blunt, plain-spoken +soldier, far from pitying him, could not refrain from taunting him with, +“Ah, ha, Sambuzi, you are not so fine as you were a while ago. You are +going to Mtesa to play Kabaka before him; fare you well, Sambuzi.” + +Saruti, the “eater,” obtained great spoil, for he was now lord over 200 +wives and 300 milch-cows, besides a large, fat district in the Katonga +valley, well populated with lusty, industrious peasants and warriors, +all of whom were from henceforth subject to him. + +The final farewell letter to Mtesa terminated our intercourse with the +powerful monarch of Uganda, and concluded our sojourn in that land of +bananas and free entertainment. Henceforth the Expedition should be +governed by one will only, and guided by a single man, who was resolved +not to subject himself or his time to any other man’s caprice, power, or +favour any more. + +As we neared the Alexandra Nile, at a place called Ndongo, this virtuous +resolution came near being put to the test, for the unquiet immigrants +settled here proclaimed that we should not pass through until we had +paid something to the chief to obtain his good-will. But, after +receiving a firm refusal they permitted us to cross the Alexandra Nile +without molestation. + +Reports and rumours of the breadth and powerful current of the river +called the “Kagera,” the “Kitangule,” and the “Ingezi,” received from +representatives of Uganda, Kiziwa, and Karagwé, some of whom were very +intelligent natives, and professed a perfect knowledge of its course, +had created in me a constant desire to examine the river more carefully +than I had previously done at its exit into Lake Victoria. At the +crossing between bank and bank it was about 450 yards in width; but +about 350 yards of this breadth flowed or oozed, with little current, +amongst sedge, water-cane, and papyrus. The remaining 100 yards was a +powerful and deep body of water, with a current of three knots and a +half an hour. The water had a dull iron colour, yet extremely pure for a +large river, and such as might proceed from some lake at no great +distance off. + +The Waganda and Wanyambu of Rumanika’s court style this river the +“Mother of the River at Jinga” (Victoria Nile), but the former have very +wild ideas about its source. They say it issues from Muta Nzigé in +Mpororo, and, flowing south, cuts Ruanda in halves, and, rounding +Kishakka, runs north, dividing Karagwé from Ruanda. + +[Illustration: + + CANOES AND PADDLES OF AFRICA. + 1. Usukuma. + 2. Ujiji and Urundi. + 3. Unyampaka (Beatrice Gulf.) + 4. Manyema, on Luama river. + 5. Uganda. + 6. Ukerewé. + 7. Karagwé, on Alexandra Nile. + 8. Arab dhow at Ujiji. +] + +Rumanika, king of Karagwé, is no less singular in his theory of the +source of the Alexandra Nile, for he says it issues from Lake Tanganika, +through Urundi. However, these and sundry other reports only roused my +interest in the noble river, and created a greater inclination to pursue +the subject to its ultimate end. For a very few soundings of it enabled +me, after my circumnavigation of Lake Victoria, and on examination of +the several streams emptying into it, to judge this to be the principal +affluent and feeder of the lake. + +A journey of fourteen miles southerly across the valley of the Alexandra +from its southern bank brought us to the base of the lofty ranges of +Karagwé. This country comprises all the mountainous ridges between +Usongora on the east and the Alexandra Nile to the west. It appears as +if at a distant epoch these ridges had been connected with the uplands +of Koki and Ankori north, and Ruanda west, but that, as Lake Victoria +had channelled a way for its outlet through the clays and shale of Usoga +and Uganda, and its altitude above the sea had subsided, the furious +current of the Kagera or Alexandra had channelled a deeper course +through the heart of what was formerly a lofty plateau, and that its +thousands of petty tributaries then rushed down into the deep depression +formed by it. + +On the 24th of February we were camped at Nakahanga, a village situated +twelve miles west of south of Kiyanga, and the next day, after a march +of thirteen miles, we entered the Arab depot of Kafurro, in Karagwé. + +----- + +# 31: + + At the confluence of the Wakassi with the Katonga, boiling-point + showed an altitude of 4111 feet above the sea, only 18 feet higher + than Ripon Falls! + +# 32: + + Our camp by boiling-point was at an altitude of 4724 feet above the + sea. + +# 33: + + The following is the epistle verbatim:— + + “MY DEAR SIR, H. M. STANLEY, + + “What meant by his news that we see Sabadu coming without a letter in + time? He came first. I asked him, ‘Where is the letter that you + brought?’ So he answered me, ‘The letter is my mouth’; but I believed + not in his words. Then went I to the Sûltan and told him these things. + Then the Sûltan called Sabadu and asked him, ‘Where is the letter?’ + and he answered, ‘There is no letter.’ So he send him to Pokino—the + Katekiro; but I who know in my heart that they been run away from you. + So now he send others people instead of them, and he go to punish + Sambuzi. It is far better for you to waite for Waganda to take you to + Mutanzige, because they see that Sambuzi been punished, and all the + others will obey the word of the king. I, Dallington, the servant of + wite men, I won’t tell you lie, but I will tell you the truth. The + Sûltan (Mtesa) is not bad. This letter I write it in a hurry, and send + me two or three papers to write the last to you. + + “SEYYID MTESA. + “Son of Sûltan Suna of Uganda, + “January 30th, 1876.” + + + + + CHAPTER XVII. + +Kafurro and its magnates—Lake Windermere—Rumanika, the gentle king of + Karagwé—His country—The Ingezi—Among the mosquitoes—Ihema Island—The + triple cone of Ufumbiro—Double-horned rhinoceros—The hot springs of + Mtagata—The Geographical Society of Karagwé—The philosophy of noses— + Rumanika’s thesauron—Some new facts about the rhinoceros and elephant— + Uhimba—Paganus, _var._ esuriens—Retrospect. + + +_Feb. 25._—Kafurro owes its importance to being a settlement of two or +three rich Arab traders, Hamed Ibrahim, Sayid bin Sayf, and Sayid the +Muscati. It is situated within a deep hollow or valley fully 1200 feet +below the tops of the surrounding mountains, and at the spring source of +a stream flowing east and afterwards north to the Alexandra Nile. + +Hamed Ibrahim is rich in cattle, slaves, and ivory. Assuming his own +figures to be correct, he possesses 150 cattle, bullocks, and milch +cows, forty goats, 100 slaves, and 450 tusks of ivory, the greater part +of which last is reported to be safely housed in the safe keeping of his +friend the chief of Urangwa in Unyamwezi. + +Hamed has a spacious and comfortable gable-roofed house. He has a number +of concubines, and several children. He is a fine, gentlemanly-looking +Arab, of a light complexion, generous and hospitable to friends, liberal +to his slaves, and kind to his women. He has lived eighteen years in +Africa, twelve of which have been spent in Karagwé. He knew Suna, the +warlike Emperor of Uganda, and father of Mtesa. He has travelled to +Uganda frequently, and several times made the journey between Unyanyembé +and Kafurro. Having lived so long in Karagwé, he is friendly with +Rumanika, who, like Mtesa, loves to attract strangers to his court. + +Hamed has endeavoured several times to open trade with the powerful +Empress of Ruanda, but has each time failed. Though some of his slaves +succeeded in reaching the imperial court, only one or two managed to +effect their escape from the treachery and extraordinary guile practised +there. Nearly all perished by poison. + +He informed me that the Empress was a tall woman of middle age, of an +almost light Arab complexion, with very large brilliant eyes. Her son, +the prince, a boy of about eighteen, had some years ago committed +suicide by drinking a poisonous potion, because his mother had cast some +sharp cutting reproaches upon him, which had so wounded his sensitive +spirit that, he said, “nothing but death would relieve him.” + +Hamed is of the belief that these members of the imperial family are +descendants of some light-coloured people to the north, possibly Arabs; +“for how,” asked he, “could the king of Kishakka possess an Arab +scimitar, which is a venerated heir-loom of the royal family, and the +sword of the founder of that kingdom?” + +“All these people,” said he, “about here are as different from the +ordinary Washensi—pagans—as I am different from them. I would as soon +marry a woman of Ruanda as I would a female of Muscat. When you go to +see Rumanika, you will see some Wanya-Ruanda, and you may then judge for +yourself. The people of that country are not cowards. Mashallah! they +have taken Kishakka, Muvari, and have lately conquered Mpororo. The +Waganda measured their strength with them, and were obliged to retreat. +The Wanya-Ruanda are a great people, but they are covetous, malignant, +treacherous, and utterly untrustworthy. They have never yet allowed an +Arab to trade in their country, which proves them to be a bad lot. There +is plenty of ivory there, and during the last eight years Khamis bin +Abdullah, Tippu-Tib, Sayid bin Habib, and I myself have attempted +frequently to enter there, but none of us has ever succeeded. Even +Rumanika’s people are not allowed to penetrate far, though he permits +everybody to come into his country, and he is a man of their own blood +and their own race, and speaks with little difference their own +language.” + +Hamed Ibrahim was not opening out very brilliant prospects before me, +nevertheless I resolved to search out in person some known road to this +strange country that I might make a direct course to Nyangwé. + +_Feb. 28._—On the third day after arrival, the king having been informed +of my intended visit, Hamed Ibrahim and Sayid bin Sayf accompanied me on +an official visit to Rumanika, king of Karagwé, and a tributary of +Mtesa, Emperor of Uganda. + +Kafurro, according to aneroid, is 3950 feet above the ocean. Ascending +the steep slope of the mountain west of Kafurro, we gained an altitude +of 5150 feet, and half an hour afterwards stood upon a ridge 5350 feet +above the sea, whence we obtained a most grand and imposing view. Some +600 feet below us was a grassy terrace overlooking the small Windermere +Lake, 1000 feet below, its placid surface rivalling in colour the azure +of the cloudless heaven. Across a narrow ridge we looked upon the broad +and papyrus-covered valley of the Alexandra, whilst many fair, blue +lakelets north and south, connected by the winding silver line of the +Alexandra Nile, suggested that here exploring work of a most interesting +character was needed to understand the complete relations of lake, +river, and valley to one another. + +Beyond the broad valley rose ridge after ridge, separated from each +other by deep parallel basins, or valleys, and behind these, receding +into dim and vague outlines, towered loftier ridges. About sixty miles +off, to the north-west, rose a colossal sugar-loaf clump of enormous +altitude, which I was told was the Ufumbiro mountains. From their +northern base extended Mpororo country and to the south, Ruanda. + +At the northern end of the Windermere Lake, an irregular range, which +extends north to Ugoi, terminates in the dome-like Mount Isossi. South +of where I stood, and about a mile distant, was the bold mount of +Kazwiro, and about thirty miles beyond it I could see the irregular and +confused masses of the Kishakka mountains. + +On the grassy terrace below us was situated Rumanika’s village, fenced +round by a strong and circular stockade, to which we now descended after +having enjoyed a noble and inspiriting prospect. + +Our procession was not long in attracting hundreds of persons, +principally youths, all those who might be considered in their boyhood +being perfectly nude. + +“Who are these?” I inquired of Sheikh Hamed. + +“Some of the youngest are sons of Rumanika, others are young +Wanya-Ruanda,” he replied. + +The sons of Rumanika, nourished on a milk diet, were in remarkably good +condition. Their unctuous skins shone as though the tissues of fat +beneath were dissolving in the heat, and their rounded bodies were as +taut as a drum-head. Their eyes were large, and beaming and lustrous +with life, yet softened by an extreme gentleness of expression. The +sculptor might have obtained from any of these royal boys a dark model +for another statue to rival the classic Antinous. + +As we were followed by the youths, who welcomed us with a graceful +curtesy, the appropriate couplet came to my mind— + + “Thrice happy race! that innocent of blood, + From milk innoxious, seek their simple food.” + +We were soon ushered into the hut wherein Rumanika sat expectant, with +one of the kindliest, most paternal smiles it would be possible to +conceive. + +I confess to have been as affected by the first glance at this venerable +and gentle pagan as though I gazed on the serene and placid face of some +Christian patriarch or saint of old, whose memory the Church still holds +in reverence. His face reminded me of a deep still well; the tones of +his voice were so calm that unconsciously they compelled me to imitate +him, while the quick, nervous gestures and the bold voice of Sheikh +Hamed, seeming entirely out of place, jarred upon me. + +It was no wonder that the peremptory and imperious, vivid-eyed Mtesa +respected and loved this sweet-tempered pagan. Though they had never +met, Mtesa’s pages had described him, and with their powers of mimicry +had brought the soft modulated tones of Rumanika to his ears as truly as +they had borne his amicable messages to him. + +What greater contrasts can be imagined than the natures of the Emperor +Mtesa and the King Rumanika? In some of his volcanic passions Mtesa +seemed to be Fury personified, and if he were represented on the stage +in one of his furious moods, I fear that the actor would rupture a +blood-vessel, destroy his eyes, and be ever afterwards afflicted with +madness. The Waganda always had recourse to action and gesture to +supplement their verbal description of his raging fits. His eyes, they +said, were “balls of fire and large as fists,” while his words were +“like gunpowder.” + +Nature, which had endowed Mtesa with a nervous and intense temperament, +had given Rumanika the placid temper, the soft voice, the mild +benignity, and pleasing character of a gentle father. + +The king appeared to me, clad as he was in red blanket cloth, when +seated, a man of middle size, but when he afterwards stood up, he rose +to the gigantic stature of 6 feet 6 inches or thereabouts, for the top +of my head, as we walked side by side, only reached near his shoulders. +His face was long, and his nose somewhat Roman in shape; the profile +showed a decidedly refined type. + +Our interview was very pleasing, and he took excessive interest in every +question I addressed to him. When I spoke, he imposed silence on his +friends, and leaned forward with eager attention. If I wished to know +anything about the geography of the country, he immediately sent for +some particular person who was acquainted with that portion, and +inquired searchingly of him as to his knowledge. He chuckled when he saw +me use my note-book, as though he had some large personal interest in +the number of notes I took. He appeared to be more and more delighted as +their bulk increased, and triumphantly pointed out to the Arabs the +immense superiority of the whites to them. + +[Illustration: LUMANIKA’S TREASURE-HOUSE.] + +He expressed himself as only too glad that I should explore his country. +It was a land, he said, that white men ought to know. It possessed many +lakes and rivers, and mountains and hot springs, and many other things, +which no other country could boast of. + +“Which do you think best, Stamlee—Karagwé or Uganda?” + +“Karagwé is grand, its mountains are high, and its valleys deep. The +Kagera is a grand river, and the lakes are very pretty. There are more +cattle in Karagwé than in Uganda, except Uddu and Koki; and game is +abundant. But Uganda is beautiful and rich; its banana plantations are +forests, and no man need to fear starvation, and Mtesa is good—and so is +Father Rumanika,” I replied smiling to him. + +“Do you hear him, Arabs? Does he not speak well? Yes, Karagwé is +beautiful,” he sighed contentedly. “But bring your boat up and place it +on the Rweru (lake), and you can go up the river as far as Kishakka, and +down to Morongo (the falls), where the water is thrown against a big +rock and leaps over it, and then goes down to the Nianja of Uganda. +Verily, my river is a great one; it is the mother of the river at Jinga +(Ripon Falls). You shall see all my land; and when you have finished the +river, I will give you more to see—Mtagata’s hot springs!” + +_March 6._—By the 6th of March, Frank had launched the boat from the +landing at Kazinga village on the waters of the Windermere Lake,[34] or +the Rweru of Rumanika, and the next day Rumanika accompanied me in state +to the water. Half-a-dozen heavy anklets of bright copper adorned his +legs, bangles of the same metal encircled his wrists, a robe of crimson +flannel was suspended from his shoulders. His walking-staff was 7 feet +in length, and his stride was a yard long. Drummers and fifers +discoursing a wild music, and fifty spearmen, besides his sons and +relatives, Wanya-Ruanda, Waganda, Wasui, Wanyamwezi, Arabs, and +Wangwana, followed us in a mixed multitude. + +Four canoes manned by Wanyambu were at hand to race with our boat, while +we took our seats on the grassy slopes of Kazinga to view the scene. I +enjoined Frank and the gallant boat’s crew to exert themselves for the +honour of us Children of the Ocean, and not to permit the Children of +the Lakes to excel us. + +A boat and canoe race on the Windermere of Karagwé, with 1200 +gentle-mannered natives gazing on! An African international affair! +Rumanika was in his element; every fibre of him tingled with joy at +the prospective fun. His sons, seated around him, looked up into their +father’s face, their own reflecting his delight. The curious natives +shared in the general gratification. + +The boat-race was soon over; it was only for about 800 yards, to +Kankorogo Point. There was not much difference in the speed, but it gave +immense satisfaction. The native canoemen, standing up with their long +paddles, strained themselves with all their energy, stimulated by the +shouts of their countrymen, while the Wangwana on the shore urged the +boat’s crew to their utmost power. + +_March 8._—The next day we began the circumnavigation of the Windermere. +The extreme length of the lake during the rainy season is about eight +miles, and its extreme breadth two and a half. It lies north and south, +surrounded by grass-covered mountains which rise from 1200 to 1500 feet +above it. There is one island called Kankorogo, situated midway between +Mount Isossi and the extreme southern end. I sounded three times, and +obtained depths of 48, 44, and 45 feet respectively at different points. +The soil of the shores is highly ferruginous in colour, and, except in +the vicinity of the villages, produces only euphorbia, thorny gum, +acacia, and aloetic plants. + +_March 9._—On the 9th we pulled abreast of Kankorogo Island, and, +through a channel from 500 to 800 yards wide, directed our course to the +Kagera, up which we had to contend against a current of two knots and a +half an hour. + +The breadth of the river varied from 50 to 100 yards. The average depth +of all the ten soundings we made on this day was 52 feet along the +middle; close to the papyrus walls, which grew like a forest above us, +was a depth of 9 feet. Sometimes we caught a view of hippopotamus creeks +running up for hundreds of yards on either side through the papyrus. At +Kagayyo, on the left bank, we landed for a short time to take a view of +the scene around, as, while in the river, we could see nothing except +the papyrus, the tops of the mountain ridge of Karagwé, and the sky. + +We then learned for the first time the true character of what we had +imagined to be a valley when we gazed upon it from the summit of the +mountain between Kafurro and Rumanika’s capital. + +The Ingezi, as the natives called it, embraces the whole space from the +base of the mountains of Muvari to that of the Karagwé ridges with the +river called Kagera, the Funzo or the papyrus, and the Rwerus or lakes, +of which there are seventeen, inclusive of Windermere. Its extreme width +between the bases of the opposing mountains is nine miles; the narrowest +part is about a mile, while the entire acreage covered by it from +Morongo or the falls in Iwanda, north to Uhimba, south, is about 350 +square miles. The Funzo or papyrus covers a depth of from 9 feet to 14 +feet of water. Each of the several lakes has a depth of from 20 to 65 +feet, and they are all connected, as also is the river, underneath the +papyrus. + +When about three miles north of Kizinga, at 5 P.M., we drew our boat +close to the papyrus, and prepared for a night’s rest, and the Wanyambu +did the same. + +The boat’s crew crushed down some of the serest papyrus, and, cutting +off the broom-like tops, spread their mats upon the heap thus made, +flattering themselves that they were going to have a cozy night of it. +Their fires they kindled between three stalks, which sustained their +cooking-pots. It was not a very successful method, as the stalks had to +be replaced frequently; but finally their bananas were done to a turn. +At night, however, mosquitoes of a most voracious species attacked them +in dense multitudes, and nothing but the constant flip-flap of the +papyrus tops mingled with complaints that they were unable to sleep were +heard for an hour or two. They then began to feel damp, and finally wet, +for their beds were sinking into the depths below the papyrus, and they +were compelled at last to come into the boat, where they passed a most +miserable night, for the mosquitoes swarmed and attacked them until +morning with all the pertinacity characteristic of these hungry +bloodsuckers. + +[Illustration: A NATIVE OF UHHA.] + +_March 10._—The next day, about noon, we discovered a narrow, winding +creek, which led us to a river-like lake, five miles in length, out of +which, through another creek, we punted our boats and canoes to the +grazing island of Unyamubi. + +From a ridge which was about 50 feet above the Ingezi we found that we +were about four miles from Kishakka and a similar distance due east from +a point of land projecting from Muvari. + +_March 11._—The next day we ascended the Kagera about ten miles, and +returning fourteen miles entered Ihema Lake, a body of water about 50 +square miles, and camped on Ihema Island, about a mile from Muvari. + +The natives of Ihema Island stated to me that Lake Muta Nzigé was only +eleven days’ journey from the Muvari shores, and that the Wanya-Ruanda +frequently visited them to obtain fish in exchange for milk and +vegetables. They also stated that the Mworongo—or, as others called it, +Nawarongo—river flows through the heart of Ruanda from the Ufumbiro +mountains, and enters the Kagera in a south-west by west direction from +Ihema: that the Akanyaru was quite a large lake, a three days’ journey +round in canoes, and separated Ruanda, Uhha, and Urundi from each other; +that there was an island in the midst, where canoes leaving Uhha were +accustomed to rest at night, arriving in Ruanda at noon. + +They were a genial people those islanders of Ihema, but they were +subject to two painful diseases, leprosy and elephantiasis. The island +was of a shaly substructure, covered with a scant depth of alluvium. The +water of the Lake Ihema was good and sweet to the taste, though, like +all the waters of the Alexandra Nile, distinguished for its dull brown +iron colour. + +We began from the extreme south end of the lake the next day to coast +along the Muvari or Ruanda coast, and near a small village attempted to +land, but the natives snarled like so many spiteful dogs, and drew their +bows, which compelled us—being guests of Rumanika—to sheer off and leave +them in their ferocious exclusiveness. + +Arriving at the Kagera again, we descended it, and at 7 P.M. were in our +little camp of Kasinga, at the south end of Windermere. + +On the 11th we rowed into the Kagera, and descended the river as far as +Ugoi, and on the evening of the 12th returned once more to our camp on +Windermere. + +_March 13._—The next day, having instructed Frank to convey the boat to +Kafurro, I requested Rumanika to furnish me with guides for the Mtagata +hot springs, and faithful to his promise, thirty Wanyambu were detailed +for the service. + +Our route lay north along the crest of a lofty ridge between Kafurro and +Windermere. Wherever we looked, we beheld grassy ridges, grassy slopes, +grassy mountain summits, and grassy valleys—an eminently pastoral +country. In a few gorges or ravines the dark tops of trees are seen. + +When Windermere Lake and Isossi, its northern mount, were south of us, +we descended into a winding grassy valley, and in our march of ten miles +from Isossi to Kasya I counted thirty-two separate herds of cattle, +which in the aggregate probably amounted to 900 head. We also saw seven +rhinoceroses, three of which were white, and four a black brown. The +guides wished me to shoot one, but I was scarce of ammunition, and as I +could not get a certain shot, I was loath to wound unnecessarily, or +throw away a cartridge. + +[Illustration: VIEW OF UFUMBIRO MOUNTAINS FROM MOUNT NEAR MTAGATA HOT +SPRINGS.] + +_March 14._—The next day, at 8 A.M., near the end of the valley, we came +to Meruré Lake, which is about two miles long, and thence, crossing +three different mountains, arrived at Kiwandaré mountain, and from its +summit, 5600 feet above the sea, obtained a tolerably distinct view of +the triple cone of Ufumbiro, in a west-north-west direction, Mag. I +should estimate the distance from Kiwandaré to Ufumbiro to be about +forty-five miles, and about sixty miles from the mountain height above +Rumanika’s capital. Several lines of mountains, with lateral valleys +between, rose between the valley of the Alexandra Nile and Ufumbiro. + +From Kiwandaré we descended gradually along its crest to a lower +terrace. About 5 P.M. one of our party sighted a dark brown +double-horned rhinoceros, and as we had no meat, and the nature of the +ground permitted easy approach, I crept up to within fifty yards of it +unperceived and sent in a zinc bullet close to the ear, which bowled it +over dead. + +The quantity of meat obtained from the animal was more than would supply +the eighteen men, Wangwana, of my party; therefore, acceding to their +wish, we camped on the spot, exposed to the chilly mountain winds, which +visited us during the night. The men, however, continued to pick up +abundance of fuel from a wooded gorge close by, and, engaged in the +interesting and absorbing task of roasting meat before many blazing +fires, did not suffer greatly. + +_March 15._—At 9 A.M. the next day we descended to the wooded gorge of +Mtagata, having travelled thirty-five miles almost due north from +Kafurro. + +This gorge is formed by an angle where the extreme northern end of +Kiwandaré mountain meets a transverse ridge. It is filled with tall +trees which have been nourished to a gigantic size and density of +foliage by the warm vapours from the springs and the heated earth. A +thick undergrowth of plants, llianes, and creepers of all sizes has +sprung up under the shade of the aspiring trees, and the gloom thus +caused within the gorge is very striking. I imagine a person would find +it a most eerie place at night alone. Great baboons and long-tailed +monkeys roared and chattered in the branches, causing the branches to +sway and rustle as they chased one another from tree to tree. + +At the time of our visit the springs were frequented by invalids from +Iwanda, Ngoi, Kiziwa, Usongora, and Usui, for, as may be believed, they +have obtained a great repute throughout the districts of Karagwé and +neighbouring countries. + +The springs are six in number, and at their extreme source they had, +when I tested them, a temperature of 129½° Fahr. The bathing pools, +which are about 12 feet in diameter, and from 2 to 5 feet deep, showed a +temperature of 110° Fahr., except one on the extreme north, which was +only 107° Fahr. + +I bottled eight ounces of water from one of these springs, and on +arriving in London sent it to Messrs. Savory and Moore, the well-known +chemists, 143 Bond Street, who in a few days kindly returned me the +following analysis:— + + “The fluid was clear, colourless, and odourless; on standing at rest, + a small quantity of red granular matter was deposited. + + “Examined chemically, it was found to have a faint alkaline reaction, + and its specific gravity, corrected to 60° F., was 1004, water being + considered 1000. + + “One hundred grammes evaporated left a white crystalline residue, + weighing ·37 of a gramme, and it was composed of sodium carbonate, + calcium carbonate, calcium sulphate and sodium chlorine; this order + represents their proportions, sodium carbonate being the chief + constituent, and the other salts existing in more minute quantities. + + “The deposit was removed and examined microchemically: it was thus + found to consist of ferruginous sand, and two minute pieces of + vegetable cellulose. + + “It was therefore a faintly alkaline water, and its alkalinity + depended on the presence of sodium carbonate possibly existing in + solution as bicarbonate, as the water held in solution carbonic acid + gas, and this gas was evolved by heating the water.” + +The natives praised the water of these springs so highly that I resolved +to stay three days to test in my own person what virtues it possessed. I +drank an enormous quantity of the water with a zealous desire to be +benefited, but I experienced no good—on the contrary, much ill, for a +few days afterwards I suffered from a violent attack of intermittent +fever, occasioned, I fancy, by the malaria inhaled from the tepid +atmosphere. It is true I luxuriated morning and evening in the bath +which was reserved for me by Luajumba, son of Rumanika, but that was all +the advantage that accrued to me. + +Patients suffering from cutaneous diseases profit rapidly from, I +believe, the unusual cleanliness; and during the few days we camped here +numbers of natives came and went, and merriment and cleansing, bathing +and lounging, music and barbarous chanting, kept awake the echoes of the +gorge. + +Our stay at the springs was cheered also by the presence of Luajumba, +who, following the example of his father Rumanika, was hospitable and +bland in his manners. An ox, two goats, ten fowls, besides bananas, +sweet potatoes and flour, and fourteen large gourdfuls of maramba were +received with thanks and paid for. + +_March 18._—On the 18th of March we set out on our return to Kafurro +from the hot springs, and on the road I shot a white rhinoceros, which +the people soon cut up to convey to their comrades. On the 19th we +arrived at Kafurro, each of the Wangwana being loaded with over twenty +lbs. of meat. + +_March 21._—After two days’ rest I paid another visit to Rumanika, where +we had a great geographical discussion. It is unnecessary to describe +the information I had to give Rumanika respecting the geographical +distribution of tribes and races over the Dark Continent, but conscious +that the geographical world will take an interest in what Rumanika and +the native travellers at his court imparted, I here append, verbatim, +the notes I took upon the spot. + +Hamed Ibrahim spoke and said:— + + “My slaves have travelled far, and they say that the Ni-Nawarongo + River rises on the west side of Ufumbiro mountains, takes a wide sweep + through Ruanda, and enters Akanyaru, in which lake it meets the Kagera + from the south. United they then empty from the lake between Uhha and + Kishakka, and flowing between Karagwé and Ruanda, go into the Nianza + (Nyanza). + + “The Rwizi River, also rising at the northern base of the Ufumbiro + cones, in Mpororo, flows through Igara, then Shema, then Ankori, into + the king of Koki’s (Luampula) lake, and becoming the Chibarré or + Kiwaré River, joins the Kagera below Kitangulé. + + “If you proceed toward sunset from Mpororo, you will see Muta Nzigé, + the Nianza of Unyoro. There are many large islands in it. Utumbi is a + country of islands, and the natives are very good, but you cannot + proceed through Mpororo, as the people are Shaitans—devils—and the + Wanya-Ruanda are wicked; and because something happened when Wangwana + first tried to go there, they never tolerate strangers. A strange + people, and full of guile verily. + + “West of Ruanda is a country called Mkinyaga, and there is a large + lake there, so I have heard—no Arabs have ever been there.” + +Then a native of Western Usui, at the request of Rumanika, said:— + + “Mkinyaga is west of Kivu Lake or Nianja Cha Ngoma, from which the + Rusizi River flows into the lake of Uzigé (Tanganika). To reach + Mkinyaga, you must pass through Unyambungu first, then you will see + the great Lake of Mkinyaga. Lake Kivu has a connection with the lake + Akanyaru, though there is much grass, as in the Ingezi, below here. A + canoe could almost reach Kivu from Kishakka, but it would be hard + work. + + “Akanyaru, which the Wahha call Nianja Cha-Ngoma, is very wide. It + will take a day and a half to cross, and is about two or three days’ + canoe journey in length. It lies between Ruanda, Uhha, and Urundi. The + Kagera coming from between Uhha and Urundi flows into it. The + Nawarongo empties into the Ruvuvu between Ugufu and Kishakka. The + Ruvuvu between Kishakka and Karagwé enters the Kagera; the Kagera + comes into the Ingezi, and flows by Kitangulé into the Nianja of + Uganda; Kivu lake is west-south-west from Kibogora’s capital, in West + Usui. Kivu has no connection with Muta Nzigé, the lake of Unyoro.” + +Then a native of Zanzibar who had accompanied Khamis bin Abdallah to +North-Western Uhha said:— + + “I have been west of King Khanza’s Uhha, and I saw a large lake. Truly + there is much water there. Urundi was to my left. Ruanda fronted me + across, and I stood on Uhha.” + +Rumanika followed, and imparted at length all his information, of which +I append only the pith:— + + “Leaving Mpororo, you may reach by canoes Makinda’s, in Utumbi, in + half a day. The island is called Kabuzzi. Three hours will take a + canoe thence to Karara Island, and from Karara Island another half-day + will take you to Ukonju, where there is a tribe of cannibals. + + “Mkinyaga is at the end of Ruanda, and its lake is Muta Nzigé, on + which you can go to Unyoro. There is a race of dwarfs somewhere west + of Mkinyaga called the Mpundu, and another called the Batwa or Watwa, + who are only two feet high. In Uriambwa is a race of small people with + tails. + + “Uitwa, or Batwa—Watwa, is at the extreme south end of Uzongora. + + “From Butwa, at the end of a point of land in Ruanda, you can see + Uitwa, Usongora. + + “From Butwa, Mkinyaga is to the left of you about three days’ journey. + + “Some of the Waziwa saw a strange people in one of those far-off lands + who had long ears descending to their feet; one ear formed a mat to + sleep on, the other served to cover him from the cold like a dressed + hide! They tried to coax one of them to come and see me, but the + journey was long, and he died on the way.” + +Dear old Rumanika, how he enjoyed presiding over the Geographical +Society of Karagwé, and how he smiled when he delivered this last +extraordinary piece of Münchhausenism! He was determined that he should +be considered as the best informed of all present, and anticipated with +delight the pleasure old and jaded Europe would feel upon hearing of +these marvellous fables of Equatorial Africa. He was also ambitious to +witness my note-book filled with his garrulity, and I fear he was a +little disposed to impose upon the credulity of sober Christians. +However, with this remark of caution to the reader, his fables may be +rendered harmless, and we can accord him thanks for his interesting +information. + +Since I am publishing these geographical items, I may as well append +here, also in brief, some other information obtained elsewhere relating +to Muta Nzigé from a native of Usongora, whom we found at Kawanga with +Sekajugu, one of the Watongoleh who accompanied us to Beatrice Gulf. + + “When you leave Ruoko in Unyoro, you will have Gambaragara to your + right, and Usagara or Ankori will be on your left. Uzimba, Ruigi’s + country, will be four days’ journey west of you. + + “On reaching Uzimba, if you turn to the left you will reach Luhola. + Usongora will be on your right hand. + + “On your left will also be Unyampaka, Kasita, Kishakka, Chakiomi, + Nyteré, Buhuju, Makara, Unyamururu, Munya Chambiro, and the Bwambu, + who are cannibals. + + “If you go to your right from Ruigi’s, you reach Usongora, Mata, two + days after Nabweru, then Butwa. Standing at Butwa, you will see Ruanda + on the left hand. + + “The country of Ruigi is called Uzimba. + + “Kitagwenda is the name of the neighbouring country. + + “Unyanuruguru lies between Ruanda and Usongora. + + “All the Wasongora emigrated from Unyoro.” + +The following is information from a native of Unyampaka upon Muta +Nzigé;— + + “My king’s name is Bulema. Kashéshé is the great king of Uzimba. Ruigi + is dead. Usongora, as you look towards sunset, will lie before you, as + you stand at Kashéshé’s. To go to Usongora from Kashéshé’s, you go to + Nkoni Island, then to Ihundi Island, and then to Usongora. + + “Far to your left, as you face the sunset, you have Utumbi, the + Mahinda, Karara, and Kabuzzi Islands. + + “There is abundance of salt in Usongora, and we go from Unyampaka (my + country) to get salt, and sell it to all the country round. Ankori + country does not extend to Muta Nzigé. Buhuju and Unyanuruguru lie + between Ankori and the lake. + + “Nyika is king of Gambaragara and Usongora. North of Gambaragara is + Toru, or Tori, country, a part of Unyoro. Kabba Rega is the great king + of all those lands. The medicines (charms) of Unyoro are kept by Nyika + on the top of his high mountain. There are as many white people there + as there are black. On the top there is a little Nianja, and a + straight rock rises high out from the middle. There is plenty of water + falling from the sides of the mountain, sometimes straight down, with + a loud noise. Herds upon herds of cattle, hundreds of them are in + Gambaragara and Usongora. The people of Usongora are great fighters, + they carry three spears and a shield each, and they live on nothing + but milk and potatoes.” + +I now proceed to give some “reflections” of a young philosopher of +Uganda, one of the pages of Sambuzi, who had accompanied his master in +the Katekiro’s great raid upon Usongora three years before. + +This young lad startled me out of the idea that philosophizing was not a +common gift, or that only members of the white race were remarkable for +their powers of observation, by the following question:— + +“Stamlee, how is it, will you tell me, that all white men have long +noses, while all their dogs have very short noses,[35] while almost all +black men have short noses, but their dogs have very long noses?” + +A youth of Uganda, thought I, who can propound such a proposition as +that, deserves attention. + +“Speak,” I said, “all you know about Muta Nzigé and the Kagera.” + + “Good; you see the Kagera, it is broad and deep and swift, and its + water though dark is clear. Where can it come from? There is an + enormous quantity of water in that river. It is the mother of the + river at Jinja, because were it not for this river our Niyanza would + dry up! + + “Tell me where it can come from? There is no country large enough to + feed it, because when you reach Rumanika’s it is still a large river. + If you go to Kishakka, farther south, it is still large, and at + Kibogora’s it is still a large river. Urundi is not far, and beyond + that is the Tanganika. + + “Tell me, where does the water of the Muta Nzigé go to? It goes into + the Kagera, of course; the Kagera goes into our Niyanza, and the river + at Jinja (Victoria Nile) goes to Kaniessa (Gondokoro). I tell you + truly that this must be the way of it. You saw the Rusango and Mpanga, + did you not, go to Muta Nzigé? Well, there must be many rivers like + that going to Muta Nzigé also. And what river drinks all those rivers + but the Kagera?” he asked triumphantly. + + “Usongora is a wonderful land! Its people are brave, and when the + Katekiro, who was accompanied by Mkwenda and Sekebobo’s chiefs, and + some of Kitunzi’s, met them, they were different people from + Gambaragara. They are very tall, long-legged people, and are armed + with spears and shields. They tried every dodge with us. When we stood + on the banks of a river going north, through the Tinka-tinka, like + that in the Katonga, the Wasongora stood on the opposite side and + shouted out to us that they were ready. Sambuzi came near being killed + next day, and we lost many men, but the Katekiro, he does not fight + like other chiefs, he is exceedingly brave, and he wanted to please + Mtesa. We fought six days. + + “The Wasongora had a number of large dogs also which they set upon us; + as we drove their cattle towards Gambaragara, the earth shook, springs + of mud leaped up, and the water in the plain was very bitter, and + killed many Waganda; it left a white thing around its borders like + salt. + + “We first saw Muta Nzigé as we followed Nyika to the top of his big + mountain in Gambaragara. We could not quite get to the top, it was too + high.” (This is Mount Gordon-Bennett.) “But we could see Usongora, and + a great lake spreading all round it. When we came back with our spoil + to Mtesa, he sent us back a short time afterwards to Ankori, and from + the top of a high mountain near Kibanga (Mount Lawson) we saw Muta + Nzigé again spreading west of us. Oh, it is a grand lake, not so wide + as our Niyanza, but very long. We get all our salt from Usongora, as + Nyika pays tribute to us with so many bags, collected from the plains, + but it is unfit to eat, unless you wash it and clean it.” + +This young lad accompanied me to Karagwé, and by his intelligence and +his restless curiosity extracted from the Wanyambu courtiers at King +Rumanika’s information which he delivered to me in the following +manner:— + + “Master, I have been asking questions from many Wanyambu, and they say + that you can take a canoe from here to Ujiji, only a certain distance + you will have to drag your canoes by land. They say also that Ndagara, + Rumanika’s father, wishing to trade with the Wajiji, tried to cut a + canal or a ditch for his canoes to pass through. They say also that + Kivu is connected with Akanyaru, and that the Rusizi leaves Kivu and + goes to Tanganika through Uzigé, but the Kagera comes through Karagwé + towards Uganda. Do you believe it?” + +To close the interesting day, Rumanika requested Hamed Ibrahim to +exhibit the treasure, trophies and curiosities in the king’s museum or +armoury, which Hamed was most anxious to do, as he had frequently +extolled the rare things there. + +The armoury was a circular hut, resembling externally a dome thatched +neatly with straw. It was about 30 feet in diameter. + +The weapons and articles, of brass and copper and iron, were in perfect +order, and showed that Rumanika did not neglect his treasures. + +There were about sixteen rude brass figures of ducks with copper wings, +ten curious things of the same metal which were meant to represent +elands, and ten headless cows of copper. Billhooks of iron, of really +admirable make, double-bladed spears, several gigantic blades of +exceedingly keen edge, 8 inches across and 18 inches in length, +exquisite spears, some with blades and staves of linked iron; others +with chained-shaped staves, and several with a cluster of small rigid +rings massed at the bottom of the blade and the end of the staff; +others, copper-bladed, had curious intertwisted iron rods for the staff. +There were also great fly-flaps set in iron, the handles of which were +admirable specimens of native art; massive cleaver-looking knives with +polished blades and a kedge-anchor-shaped article with four hooked iron +prongs, projecting out of a brass body. Some exquisite native cloths, +manufactured of delicate grass, were indeed so fine as to vie with +cotton sheeting, and were coloured black and red, in patterns and +stripes. The royal stool was a masterpiece of native turnery, being +carved out of a solid log of cotton-wood. Besides these specimens of +native art were drinking-cups, goblets, trenchers and milk dishes of +wood, all beautifully clean. The fireplace was a circular hearth in the +centre of the building, very tastefully constructed. Ranged round the +wall along the floor were other gifts from Arab friends, massive copper +trays, with a few tureen lids of Britannia ware, evidently from +Birmingham. Nor must the revolving rifle given to him by Captain Speke +be forgotten, for it had an honoured place, and Rumanika loves to look +at it, for it recalls to his memory the figures of his genial white +friends Speke and Grant. + +The enormous drums, fifty-two in number, ranged outside, enabled us, +from their very appearance, to guess at the deafening sounds which +celebrate the new moon or deliver the signals for war. + +[Illustration: GROUND PLAN OF KING’S HOUSE.] + +My parting with the genial old man, who must be about sixty years old +now, was very affecting. He shook my hands many times, saying each time +that he was sorry that my visit must be so short. He strictly charged +his sons to pay me every attention until I should arrive at Kibogora’s, +the king of Western Usui, who, he was satisfied, would be glad to see me +as a friend of Rumanika. + +_March 26._—On the 26th of March the Expedition, after its month’s rest +at Kafurro, the whole of which period I had spent in exploration of +Western Karagwé, resumed its journey, and after a march of five miles +camped at Nakawanga, near the southern base of Kibonga mountain. + +The next day a march of thirteen miles brought us to the northern +extremity of Uhimba lake, a broad river-like body of water supplied by +the Alexandra Nile. + +_March 27._—On the 27th I had the good fortune to shoot three +rhinoceroses, from the bodies of which we obtained ample supplies of +meat for our journey through the wilderness of Uhimba. One of these +enormous brutes possessed a horn 2 feet long, with a sharp dagger-like +point below, a stunted horn, 9 inches in length. He appeared to have had +a tussle with some wild beast, for a hand’s breadth of hide was torn +from his rump. + +[Illustration: TREASURE HOUSE, ARMS, AND TREASURES OF RUMANIKA.] + +The Wangwana and Wanyambu informed me with the utmost gravity that the +elephant maltreats the rhinoceros frequently, because of a jealousy that +the former entertains of his fiery cousin. It is said that if the +elephant observes the excrement of the rhinoceros unscattered, he waxes +furious, and proceeds instantly in search of the criminal, when woe +befall him if he is sulky, and disposed to battle for the proud +privilege of leaving his droppings as they fall! The elephant in that +case breaks off a heavy branch of a tree, or uproots a stout sapling +like a boat’s mast, and belabours the unfortunate beast until he is glad +to save himself by hurried flight. For this reason, the natives say, the +rhinoceros always turns round and thoroughly scatters what he has +dropped. + +Should a rhinoceros meet an elephant, he must observe the rule of the +road and walk away, for the latter brooks no rivalry; but the former is +sometimes headstrong, and the elephant then despatches him with his +tusks by forcing him against a tree and goring him, or by upsetting him, +and leisurely crushing him. + +At the distance of twenty-six miles from Kafurro we made our third camp +near some wave-worn sheets and protruding humps of brown-veined +porphyry, and close to an arm of the Uhimba lake, which swarmed with +hippopotami. + +There were traces of water or wave action on this hard porphyry visible +at about fifty feet above the present level. Some of these humps were +exposed in the water also, and showed similar effects to those observed +behind our camp. + +_March 27._—During the next two days we travelled twenty-seven miles +south through a depression, or a longitudinal valley, parallel to Uhimba +lake and the course of the Alexandra, with only an intervening ridge +excluding the latter from our view. Tall truncated hill-cones rise every +now and then with a singular resemblance to each other, to the same +altitude as the grassy ridges which flank them. Their summits are flat, +but the iron-stone faithfully indicates by its erosions the element +which separated them from the ridges, and first furrowed the valley. + +Uhimba, placed by Rumanika in the charge of his sons Kakoko, Kananga, +and Ruhinda, is sixty-eight miles south of his capital, and consists of +a few settlements of herdsmen. It was, a few years ago, a debatable land +between Usui and Karagwé, but upon the conquest of Kishakki by Ruanda, +Rumanika occupied it lest his jealous and ill-conditioned rival, +Mankorongo of Usui, should do so. + +At this place I met messengers from Mankorongo despatched by him to +invite me to go and see him, and who, with all the impudence +characteristic of their behaviour to the Arabs, declared that if I +attempted to traverse any country in his neighbourhood without paying +him the compliment of a visit, it would be my utter ruin. + +They were sent back with a peaceful message, and told to say that I was +bound for Kibogora’s capital, to try and search out a road across Urundi +to the west, and that if I did not succeed I would think of Mankorongo’s +words; at the same time, Mankorongo was to be sure that if I was waylaid +in the forest by any large armed party with a view to intimidation, that +party would be sorry for it. + +I had heard of Mankorongo’s extortions from Arabs and Waganda, and how +he had proved himself a worthy successor to the rapacious Swarora, who +caused so much trouble to Speke and Grant. + +During the second day of our courteous intercourse with Kakoko, I +ascended a mount some 600 feet high about three miles from camp, to +take bearings of the several features which Kananga was requested +to show me. Five countries were exposed to view, Karagwé, Kishakka, +Ruanda beyond, Ugufu, and Usui. Parallel with Usui was pointed out King +Khanza’s Uhha; beyond Uhha we were told was Urundi, beyond Urundi, +west, the Tanganika and Uzigé, and then nobody knew what lands lay +beyond Uzigé. Akanyaru stretched south of west, between Ruanda, Uhha, +and Urundi; in a south-west direction was said to be Kivu; in a west by +north Mkinyaga, and in the west Unyambungu. Ugufu was separated from +Kishakka by the Nawarongo or Ruvuvu, and from Uhha and Usui by the +Alexandra Nile which came from between Uhha and Urundi. A river of some +size was also said to flow from the direction of Unyambungu into the +Akanyaru.[36] + +_March 30._—The next day we entered Western Usui, and camped at +Kafurra’s. In Usui there was a famine, and it required thirty-two doti +of cloth to purchase four days’ rations. Kibogora demanded and obtained +thirty doti, one coil of ware, and forty necklaces of beads as tribute; +Kafurra, his principal chief, demanded ten doti and a quantity of beads; +another chief required five doti; the queen required a supply of cloth +to wear; the princes put in a claim; the guides were loud for their +reward. Thus, in four days, we were compelled to disburse two bales out +of twenty-two, all that were left of the immense store we had departed +with from Zanzibar. Under such circumstances, what prospect of +exploration had we, were we to continue our journey through Uhha, that +land which in 1871 had consumed at the rate of two bales of cloth per +diem? Twenty days of such experience in Uhha would reduce us to beggary. +Its “esurient” Mutwarés and rapacious Mkamas and other extortionate +people can only be quieted with cloth and beads disbursed with a +princely hand. One hundred bales of cloth would only suffice to sustain +a hundred men in Uhha about six weeks. Beyond Uhha lay the impenetrable +countries of Urundi and Ruanda, the inhabitants of which were hostile to +strangers. + +Kibogora and Kufurra were sufficiently explicit and amiably +communicative, for my arrival in their country had been under the very +best auspices, viz. an introduction from the gentle and beloved +Rumanika. + +I turned away with a sigh from the interesting land, but with a +resolution gradually being intensified, that the third time I sought a +road west nothing should deter me. + +_April 7._—On the 7th of April we reluctantly resumed our journey in a +southerly direction, and travelled five miles along a ravine, at the +bottom of which murmured the infant stream Lohugati. On coming to its +source we ascended a steep slope until we stood upon the summit of a +grassy ridge at the height of 5600 feet by aneroid. + +Not until we had descended about a mile to the valley of Uyagoma did I +recognize the importance of this ridge as the water-parting between one +of the feeders of Lake Victoria and the source of the Malagarazi, the +principal affluent of Lake Tanganika. + +Though by striking across Uhha due west or to the south-west we should +again have reached the Alexandra Nile and the affluents of the Alexandra +Lake, our future course was destined never to cross another stream or +rivulet that supplied the great river which flows through the land of +Egypt into the Mediterranean Sea. + +From the 17th of January, 1875, up to the 7th of April, 1876, we had +been engaged in tracing the extreme southern sources of the Nile, from +the marshy plains and cultivated uplands where they are born, down to +the mighty reservoir called the Victoria Nyanza. We had circumnavigated +the entire expanse; penetrated to every bay, inlet, and creek; become +acquainted with almost every variety of wild human nature—the mild and +placable, the ferocious and impracticably savage, the hospitable and the +inhospitable, the generous-souled as well as the ungenerous; we had +viewed their methods of war, and had witnessed them imbruing their hands +in each other’s blood with savage triumph and glee; we had been five +times sufferers by their lust for war and murder, and had lost many men +through their lawlessness and ferocity; we had travelled hundreds of +miles to and fro on foot along the northern coast of the Victorian Sea, +and, finally, had explored with a large force the strange countries +lying between the two lakes Muta Nzigé and the Victoria, and had been +permitted to gaze upon the arm of the lake named by me “Beatrice Gulf,” +and to drink of its sweet waters. We had then returned from farther +quest in that direction, unable to find a peaceful resting-place on the +lake shores, and had struck south from the Katonga lagoon down to the +Alexandra Nile, the principal affluent of the Victoria Lake, which +drains nearly all the waters from the west and south-west. We had made a +patient survey of over one-half of its course, and then, owing to want +of the means to feed the rapacity of the churlish tribes which dwell in +the vicinity of the Alexandra Nyanza, and to our reluctance to force our +way against the will of the natives, opposing unnecessarily our rifles +to their spears and arrows, we had been compelled, on the 7th of April, +to bid adieu to the lands which supply the Nile, and to turn our faces +towards the Tanganika. + +I have endeavoured to give a faithful portrayal of nature, animate and +inanimate, in all its strange peculiar phases, as they were unfolded to +us. I am conscious that I have not penetrated to the depths; but then I +have not ventured beyond the limits assigned to me, viz. the Exploration +of the Southern Sources of the Nile, and the solution of the problem +left unsolved by Speke and Grant—Is the Victoria Nyanza[37] one lake, or +does it consist of five lakes, as reported by Livingstone, Burton, and +others? This problem has been satisfactorily solved, and Speke has now +the full glory of having discovered the largest inland sea on the +continent of Africa, also its principal affluent, as well as the outlet. +I must also give him credit for having understood the geography of the +countries he travelled through better than any of those who so +persistently assailed his hypothesis, and I here record my admiration of +the geographical genius that from mere native report first sketched with +such a masterly hand the bold outlines of the Victoria Nyanza. + +----- + +# 34: + + This lake received this name from Captain Speke, because Colonel + Grant, his companion, thought it resembled the Windermere Lake in + England. + +# 35: + + The young philosopher had observed the broad short noses of my British + bulldog and bull terrier “Jack,” and he had hastily arrived at the + conclusion that all white men’s dogs were pug-nosed. + +# 36: + + I learned from Warundi and Wazigé, three months later, that the river + that came from the west was the Ruanda, flowing into the Rusizi, + thence into the Tanganika. + +# 37: + + Speke’s hypothetic sketch made this lake 29,000 square miles in + extent. My survey of it has reduced it to 21,500 square miles. + + + + + CHAPTER XVIII. + +The twin rivers—Mankorongo baulked of his loot—Poor Bull! True to the + death—Msenna breaks out again—The Terror of Africa appears on the + scene—Mars at peace—“Dig potatoes, potatoes, potatoes”—Mirambo, the + bandit chief, and I make blood-brotherhood—Little kings with “big + heads”—Practical conversion of the chief of Ubagwé—The Watuta, the + Ishmaels of Africa—Their history—African nomenclature—From Msené + across the Malagarazi to Ujiji—Sad memories. + + +_April 7._—Along the valley of Uyagoma, in Western Usui, stretches east +and west a grass-covered ridge, beautiful in places with rock-strewn +dingles, tapestried with ferns and moss, and bright with vivid foliage. +From two such fair nooks, halfway down either slope, the northern and +the southern, drip in great rich drops the sources of two impetuous +rivers—on the southern the Malagarazi, on the other the Lohugati. Though +nurtured in the same cradle, and issuing within 2000 yards of one +another, the twin streams are strangers throughout their lives. Through +the thick ferns and foliage, the rivulets trickle each down his +appointed slope, murmuring as they gather strength to run their destined +course—the Lohugati to the Victoria Lake, the Malagarazi to distant +Tanganika. + +While the latter river is in its infancy, collecting its first tribute +of waters from the rills that meander down from the mountain folds round +the basin of Uyagoma, and is so shallow that tiny children can paddle +through it, the people of Usui call it the Meruzi. When we begin our +journey from Uyagoma, we follow its broadening course for a couple of +hours, through the basin, and by that time it has become a river _nomine +dignum_, and, plunging across it, we begin to breast the mountains, +which, rising in diagonal lines of ridges from north-east to south-west +across Usui, run in broken series into Northern Uhha, and there lose +themselves in a confusion of complicated masses and clumps. + +The Meruzi wanders round and through these mountain masses in mazy +curves, tumbles from height to height, from terrace to terrace, +receiving as it goes the alliance of myriads of petty rivulets and +threads of clear water, until, arriving at the grand forest lands of +Unyamwezi, it has assumed the name of Lukoke, and serves as a boundary +between Unyamwezi and Uhha. + +Meanwhile we have to cross a series of mountain ridges clothed with +woods; and at a road leading from Kibogora’s land to the territory of +the turbulent and vindictive Mankorongo, successor of Swarora, we meet +an embassy, which demands in a most insolent tone that we should pass by +his village. This means, of course, that we must permit ourselves to be +defrauded of two or three bales of cloth, half-a-dozen guns, a sack or +two of beads, and such other property as he may choose to exact, for the +privilege of lengthening our journey some forty miles, and a delay of +two or three weeks. + +The insolent demand is therefore not to be entertained, and we return a +decided refusal. They are not satisfied with the answer, and resort to +threats. Threats in the free, uninhabited forest constitute a _casus +belli_. So the chiefs are compelled to depart without a yard of cloth on +the instant, and after their departure we urge our pace until night, and +from dawn next morning to 3 P.M. we continue the journey with unabated +speed, until we find ourselves in Nyambarri, Usambiro, rejoiced to find +that we have foiled the dangerous king. + +_April 13._—On the 13th of April we halted to refresh the people. +Usambiro, like all Unyamwezi, produces sufficient grain, sesamum, +millet, Indian corn, and vetches, besides beans and peas, to supply all +caravans and expeditions. I have observed that lands producing grain are +more easy of access than pastoral countries, or those which only supply +milk, bananas, and potatoes to their inhabitants. + +At Nyambarri we met two Arab caravans fresh from Mankorongo, of whom +they gave fearful accounts, from which I inferred that the extortionate +chief would be by no means pleased when he came to understand how he had +been baffled in his idea of spoliating our Expedition. + +Here the notorious Msenna for the third time ruptured the peace. He was +reported to be inciting a large number of Wangwana and Wanyamwezi to +desert in a body, offering himself as guide to conduct them to +Unyanyembé; and several young fellows, awed by his ungovernable temper +and brutal disposition, had yielded to his persuasions. Msenna was +therefore reduced to the ranks, and instead of being entrusted with the +captaincy of ten men, was sentenced to carry a box, under the watchful +eye of Kachéché, for a period of six months. + +_April 14._—During the march from Nyambarri to Gambawagao, the chief +village of Usambiro, ancient “Bull,” the last of all the canine +companions which left England with me, borne down by weight of years and +a land journey of about 1500 miles, succumbed. With bulldog tenacity he +persisted in following the receding figures of the gun-bearers, who were +accustomed to precede him in the narrow way. Though he often staggered +and moaned, he made strenuous efforts to keep up, but at last, lying +down in the path, he plaintively bemoaned the weakness of body that had +conquered his will, and soon after died—his eyes to the last looking +_forward_ along the track he had so bravely tried to follow. + +[Illustration: + + “BULL.” + (_From a photograph by the Author._) +] + +Poor dog! Good and faithful service had he done me! Who more rejoiced +than he to hear the rifle-shot ringing through the deep woods! Who more +loudly applauded success than he with his deep, mellow bark! What long +forest-tracts of tawny plains and series of mountain ranges had he not +traversed! How he plunged through jungle and fen, morass and stream! In +the sable blackness of the night his voice warned off marauders and +prowling beasts from the sleeping camp. His growl responded to the +hideous jabber of the greedy hyæna, and the snarling leopard did not +dismay him. He amazed the wondering savages with his bold eyes and +bearing, and by his courageous front caused them to retreat before him; +and right bravely did he help us to repel the Wanyaturu from our camp in +Ituru. Farewell, thou glory of thy race! Rest from thy labours in the +silent forest! Thy feet shall no more hurry up the hill or cross mead +and plain; thy form shall rustle no more through the grasses, or be +plunging to explore the brake; thou shalt no longer dash after me across +the savannahs, for thou art gone to the grave, like the rest of thy +companions! + +The king of Usambiro exchanged gifts with us, and appeared to be a +clever, agreeable young man. His people, though professing to be +Wanyamwezi, are a mixture of Wahha and Wazinja. He has constructed a +strong village, and surrounded it with a fosse 4 feet deep and 6 feet +wide, with a stockade and “marksmen’s nests” at intervals round it. The +population of the capital is about 2000. + +Boma Kiengo, or Msera, lies five miles south-south-east from the +capital, and its chief, seeing that we had arrived at such a good +understanding with the king, also exerted himself to create a favourable +impression. + +_April 18._—Musonga lies twelve miles south-south-east of Boma Kiengo, +and is the most northerly village of the country of Urangwa. On the 18th +of April, a march of fifteen miles enabled us to reach the capital, +Ndeverva, another large stockaded village, also provided with +“marksmen’s nests,” and surrounded by a fosse. + +We were making capital marches. The petty kings, though they exacted a +small interchange of gifts, which compelled me to disburse cloth a +little more frequently than was absolutely necessary, were not insolent, +nor so extortionate as to prevent our intercourse being of the most +friendly character. + +But on the day we arrived at Urangwa, lo! there came up in haste, while +we were sociably chatting together, a messenger to tell us that the +phantom, the bugbear, the terror whose name silences the children of +Unyamwezi and Usukuma, and makes women’s hearts bound with fear; that +Mirambo himself was coming—that he was only two camps, or about twenty +miles, away—that he had an immense army of Ruga-Ruga (bandits) with him! + +The consternation at this news, the dismay and excitement, the +discussion and rapid interchange of ideas suggested by terror throughout +the capital, may be conceived. Barricades were prepared, sharp-shooters’ +platforms, with thick bulwarks of logs, were erected. The women hastened +to prepare their charms, the Waganga consulted their spirits, each +warrior and elder examined his guns and loaded them, ramming the powder +down the barrels of their Brummagem muskets with desperately vengeful +intentions, while the king hastened backwards and forwards with +streaming robes of cotton behind him, animated by a hysterical energy. + +[Illustration: SEROMBO HUTS.] + +I had 175 men under my command, and forty of the Arabs’ people were with +me, and we had many boxes of ammunition. The king recollected these +facts, and said, “You will stop to fight Mirambo, will you not?” + +“Not I, my friend; I have no quarrel with Mirambo, and we cannot join +every native to fight his neighbour. If Mirambo attacks the village +while I am here, and will not go away when I ask him, we will fight; but +we cannot stop here to wait for him.” + +The poor king was very much distressed when we left the next morning. We +despatched our scouts ahead, as we usually did when traversing troublous +countries, and omitted no precaution to guard against surprise. + +_April 19._—On the 19th we arrived at one of the largest villages or +towns in Unyamwezi, called Serombo or Sorombo. It was two miles and a +half in circumference, and probably contained over a thousand large and +small huts, and a population of about 5000. + +The present king’s name is Ndega, a boy of sixteen, the son of Makaka, +who died about two years ago. Too young himself to govern the large +settlement and the country round, two elders, or Manyapara, act as +regents during his minority. + +We were shown to a peculiar-shaped hut, extremely like an Abyssinian +dwelling. The height of the doorway was 7 feet, and from the floor to +the top of the conical roof it was 20 feet. The walls were of interwoven +sticks, plastered over neatly with brown clay. The king’s house was 30 +feet high from the ground to the tip of the cone, and 40 feet in +diameter within; but the total diameter including the circular fence or +palisade that supported the broad eaves, and enclosed a gallery which +ran round the house, was 54 feet. + +Owing to this peculiar construction a desperate body of 150 men might +from the circular gallery sustain a protracted attack from a vastly +superior foe, and probably repel it. + +Ndega is a relative of Mirambo by marriage, and he soon quieted all +uneasy minds by announcing that the famous man who was now advancing +upon Serombo had just concluded a peace with the Arabs, and that +therefore no trouble was to be apprehended from his visit, it being +solely a friendly visit to his young relative. + +Naturally we were all anxious to behold the “Mars of Africa,” who since +1871 has made his name feared by both native and foreigner from Usui to +Urori, and from Uvinza to Ugogo, a country embracing 90,000 square +miles, who, from the village chieftainship over Uyoweh, has made for +himself a name as well known as that of Mtesa throughout the eastern +half of Equatorial Africa, a household word from Nyangwé to Zanzibar, +and the theme of many a song of the bards of Unyamwezi, Ukimbu, +Ukonongo, Uzinja, and Uvinza. + +On the evening of our arrival at Serombo’s we heard his Brown Besses— +called by the natives Gumeh-Gumeh—announcing to all that the man with +the dread name lay not far from our vicinity. + +At dusk the huge drums of Serombo signalled silence for the town-criers, +whose voices, preceded by the sound of iron bells, were presently heard +crying out:— + +“Listen, O men of Serombo. Mirambo, the brother of Ndega, cometh in the +morning. Be ye prepared, therefore, for his young men are hungry. Send +your women to dig potatoes, dig potatoes. Mirambo cometh. Dig potatoes, +potatoes, dig potatoes, to-morrow!” + +_April 20._—At 10 A.M. the Brown Besses, heavily charged and fired off +by hundreds, loudly heralded Mirambo’s approach, and nearly all my +Wangwana followed the inhabitants of Serombo outside to see the famous +chieftain. Great war-drums and the shouts of admiring thousands +proclaimed that he had entered the town, and soon little Mabruki, the +chief of the tent-boys, and Kachéché, the detective, on whose +intelligence I could rely, brought an interesting budget to me. + +Mabruki said: “We have seen Mirambo. He has arrived. We have beheld +the Ruga-Ruga, and there are many of them, and all are armed with +Gumeh-Gumeh. About a hundred are clothed in crimson cloth and white +shirts, like our Wangwana. Mirambo is not an old man.” + +Kachéché said: “Mirambo is not old, he is young: I must be older than he +is. He is a very nice man, well dressed, quite like an Arab. He wears +the turban, fez, and cloth coat of an Arab, and carries a scimitar. He +also wears slippers, and his clothes under his coat are very white. I +should say he has about a thousand and a half men with him, and they are +all armed with muskets or double-barrelled guns. Mirambo has three young +men carrying his guns for him. Truly, Mirambo is a great man!” + +The shrill Lu-lu-lu’s, prolonged and loud, were still maintained by the +women, who entertained a great respect for the greatest king in +Unyamwezi. + +[Illustration: A “RUGA-RUGA,” ONE OF MIRAMBO’S PATRIOTS.] + +Presently Manwa Sera, the chief captain of the Wangwana, came to my hut, +to introduce three young men—Ruga-Ruga (bandits), as we called them, but +must do so no more lest we give offence—handsomely dressed in fine red +and blue cloth coats, and snowy white shirts, with ample turbans around +their heads. They were confidential captains of Mirambo’s bodyguard. + +“Mirambo sends his salaams to the white man,” said the principal of +them. “He hopes the white man is friendly to him, and that he does not +share the prejudices of the Arabs, and believe Mirambo a bad man. If it +is agreeable to the white man, will he send words of peace to Mirambo?” + +“Tell Mirambo,” I replied, “that I am eager to see him, and would be +glad to shake hands with so great a man, and as I have made strong +friendship with Mtesa, Rumanika, and all the kings along the road from +Usoga to Unyamwezi, I shall be rejoiced to make strong friendship with +Mirambo also. Tell him I hope he will come and see me as soon as he +can.” + +_April 22._—The next day Mirambo, having despatched a Ruga-Ruga—no, a +patriot, I should have said—to announce his coming, appeared with about +twenty of his principal men. + +I shook hands with him with fervour, which drew a smile from him as he +said, “The white man shakes hands like a strong friend.” + +His person quite captivated me, for he was a thorough African +_gentleman_ in appearance, very different from my conception of the +terrible bandit who had struck his telling blows at native chiefs and +Arabs with all the rapidity of a Frederick the Great environed by foes. + +I entered the following notes in my journal on April 22, 1876:— + + “This day will be memorable to me for the visit of the famous Mirambo. + He was the reverse of all my conceptions of the redoubtable chieftain, + and the man I had styled the ‘terrible bandit.’ + + “He is a man about 5 feet 11 inches in height, and about thirty-five + years old, with not an ounce of superfluous flesh about him. A + handsome, regular-featured, mild-voiced, soft-spoken man, with what + one might call a ‘meek’ demeanour, very generous and open-handed. + The character was so different from that which I had attributed + to him that for some time a suspicion clung to my mind that I was + being imposed upon, but Arabs came forward who testified that this + quiet-looking man was indeed Mirambo. I had expected to see something + of the Mtesa type, a man whose exterior would proclaim his life and + rank; but this unpresuming, mild-eyed man, of inoffensive, meek + exterior, whose action was so calm, without a gesture, presented to + the eye nothing of the Napoleonic genius which he has for five years + displayed in the heart of Unyamwezi, to the injury of Arabs and + commerce, and the doubling of the price of ivory. I said there was + _nothing_; but I must except the eyes, which had the steady, calm + gaze of a master. + + “During the conversation I had with him, he said he preferred boys or + young men to accompany him to war; he never took middle-aged or old + men, as they were sure to be troubled with wives or children, and did + not fight half so well as young fellows who listened to his words. + Said he, ‘They have sharper eyes, and their young limbs enable them to + move with the ease of serpents or the rapidity of zebras, and a few + words will give them the hearts of lions. In all my wars with the + Arabs, it was an army of youths that gave me victory, boys without + beards. Fifteen of my young men died one day because I said I must + have a certain red cloth that was thrown down as a challenge. No, no, + give me youths for war in the open field, and men for the stockaded + village.’ + + “‘What was the cause of your war, Mirambo, with the Arabs?’ I asked. + + “‘There was a good deal of cause. The Arabs got the big head’ (proud), + ‘and there was no talking with them. Mkasiwa of Unyanyembé lost his + head too, and thought I was his vassal, whereas I was not. My father + was king of Uyoweh, and I was his son. What right had Mkasiwa or the + Arabs to say what I ought to do? But the war is now over—the Arabs + know what I can do, and Mkasiwa knows it. We will not fight any more, + but we will see who can do the best trade, and who is the smartest + man. Any Arab or white man who would like to pass through my country + is welcome. I will give him meat and drink, and a house, and no man + shall hurt him.’” + +Mirambo retired, and in the evening I returned his visit with ten of the +principal Wangwana. I found him in a bell-tent, 20 feet high and 25 feet +in diameter, with his chiefs around him. + +Manwa Sera was requested to seal our friendship by performing the +ceremony of blood-brotherhood between Miramba and myself. Having caused +us to sit fronting each other on a straw-carpet, he made an incision in +each of our right legs, from which he extracted blood, and, +interchanging it, he exclaimed aloud:— + +“If either of you break this brotherhood now established between you, +may the lion devour him, the serpent poison him, bitterness be in his +food, his friends desert him, his gun burst in his hands and wound him, +and everything that is bad do wrong to him until death.” + +My new brother then gave me fifteen cloths to be distributed among my +chiefs, while he would accept only three from me. But not desirous of +appearing illiberal, I presented him with a revolver and 200 rounds of +ammunition, and some small curiosities from England. Still ambitious to +excel me in liberality, he charged five of his young men to proceed to +Urambo—which name he has now given Uyoweh, after himself—and to select +three milch-cows with their calves, and three bullocks, to be driven to +Ubagwé to meet me. He also gave me three guides to take me along the +frontier of the predatory Watuta. + +_April 23._—On the morning of the 23rd he accompanied me outside +Serombo, where we parted on the very best terms with each other. An Arab +in his company, named Sayid bin Mohammed, also presented me with a bar +of Castile soap, a bag of pepper and some saffron. A fine riding-ass, +purchased from Sayid, was named Mirambo by me, because the Wangwana, who +were also captivated by Mirambo’s agreeable manners, insisted on it. + +We halted on the 23rd at Mayangira, seven miles and a half from +Serombo, and on the 24th, after a protracted march of eleven miles +south-south-east over flooded plains, arrived at Ukombeh. + +_April 24._—At Masumbwa, ten miles from Ukombeh, we encountered a very +arrogant young chief, who called himself Mtemi, or king, and whose +majesty claimed to be honoured with a donation of fifteen cloths—a claim +which was peremptorily refused, despite all he could urge in +satisfaction of it. + +Through similar flooded plains, with the water hip-deep in most places, +and after crossing an important stream flowing west-south-west towards +the Malagarazi, we arrived at Myonga’s village, the capital of southern +Masumbwa. + +This Myonga is the same valorous chief who robbed Colonel Grant as he +was hurrying with an undisciplined caravan after Speke. (See Speke’s +Journal, page 159, for the following graphic letter:— + + “In the Jungles, near M’yonga’s, + “16th Sept. 1861. + + “MY DEAR SPEKE,—The caravan was attacked, plundered, and the men + driven to the winds, while marching this morning into M’yonga’s + country. + + “Awaking at cock-crow, I roused the camp, all anxious to rejoin you; + and while the loads were being packed, my attention was drawn to an + angry discussion between the head men and seven or eight armed fellows + sent by Sultan M’yonga to insist on my putting up for the day in his + village. They were summarily told that as _you_ had already made him a + present, he need not expect a visit from _me_. Adhering, I doubt not, + to their master’s instructions, they officiously constituted + themselves our guides till we chose to strike off their path, when, + quickly heading our party, they stopped the way, planted their spears, + and _dared_ our advance! + + “This menace made us firmer in our determination, and we swept past + the spears. After we had marched unmolested for some seven miles, a + loud yelping from the woods excited our attention, and a sudden rush + was made upon us by, say, two hundred men, who came down _seemingly_ + in great glee. In an instant, at the caravan’s centre, they fastened + upon the poor porters. The struggle was short; and with the threat of + an arrow or spear at their breasts, men were robbed of their cloths + and ornaments, loads were yielded and run away with before resistance + could be organised; only three men of a hundred stood by me; the + others, whose only _thought_ was their lives, fled into the woods, + where I went shouting for them. One man, little Rahan—rip as he is— + stood with cocked gun, defending his load against five savages with + uplifted spears. No one else could be seen. Two or three were reported + killed, some were wounded. Beads, boxes, cloths, &c., lay strewed + about the woods. In fact, I felt wrecked. My attempt to go and demand + redress from the sultan was resisted, and, in utter despair. I seated + myself among a mass of rascals jeering round me, and insolent after + the success of the day. Several were dressed in the very cloths, &c., + they had stolen from my men. + + “In the afternoon about fifteen men and loads were brought me, with a + message from the sultan, that the attack had been a _mistake_ of his + subjects—that one man had had a hand cut off for it, and that all the + property would be restored! + + “Yours sincerely, + “J. A. GRANT.”) + +Age had not lessened the conceit of Myonga, increased his modesty, or +moderated his cupidity. He asserted the rights and privileges of his +royalty with a presumptuous voice and a stern brow. He demanded tribute! +Twenty-five cloths! A gun and five fundo of beads! The Arabs, my +friends, were requested to do the same! + +“Impossible, Myonga!” I replied, yet struck with admiration at the +unparalleled audacity of the man. + +“People have been obliged to pay what I ask,” the old man said, with a +cunning twinkle in his eyes. + +“Perhaps,” I answered; “but whether they have or not, I cannot pay you +so much, and, what is more, I will not. As a sign that we pass through +your country, I give you one cloth, and the Arabs shall only give you +one cloth.” + +Myonga blustered and stormed, begged and threatened, and some of his +young men appeared to be getting vicious, when rising I informed him +that to talk loudly was to act like a scolding woman, and, that, when +his elder should arrive at our camp, he would receive two cloths, one +from me and one from the Arabs, as acknowledgment of his right to the +country. + +The drum of Myonga’s village at once beat to arms, but the affair went +no further, and the elder received the reasonable and just tribute of +two cloths, with a gentle hint that it would be dangerous to intercept +the Expedition on the road when on the march, as the guns were loaded. + +Phunze, chief of Mkumbiro, a village ten miles south by east from +Myonga, and the chief of Ureweh, fourteen miles and a half from +Phunze’s, were equally bold in their demands, but they did not receive +an inch of cloth; but neither of these three chiefs were half so +extortionate as Ungomirwa, king of Ubagwé, a large town of 3000 people. + +_April 27._—We met at Ubagwé an Arab trader _en route_ to Uganda, and he +gave us a dismal tale of robbery and extortion practised on him by +Ungomirwa. He had been compelled to pay 150 cloths, five kegs or 50 lbs. +of gunpowder, five guns double-barrelled, and 35 lbs. of beads, the +whole being of the value of 625 dollars, or £125, for the privilege of +passing unmolested through the district of Ubagwé. + +When the chief came to see me, I said to him:— + +“Why is it, my friend, that your name goes about the country as being +that of a bad man? How is it that this poor Arab has had to pay so much +for going through Ubagwé? Is Ubagwé Unyamwezi, that Ungomirwa demands so +much from the Arabs? The Arab brings cloths, powder, guns into +Unyamwezi. If you rob him of his property, I must send letters to stop +people coming here, then Ungomirwa will become poor, and have neither +powder, guns, nor cloths to wear. What has Ungomirwa to say to his +friend?” + +“Ungomirwa,” replied he, “does no more than Ureweh, Phunze, Myonga, +Ndega, Urangwa, and Mankorongo: he takes what he can. If the white man +thinks it is wrong, and will be my friend, I will return it all to the +Arab.” + +“Ungomirwa is good. Nay, do not return it all; retain one gun, five +cloths, two fundo of beads, and one keg of powder; that will be plenty, +and nothing but right. I have many Wanyamwezi with me, whom I have made, +good men. I have two from Ubagwé, and one man who was born at Phunze’s. +Let Ungomirwa call the Wanyamwezi, and ask them how the white man treats +Wanyamwezi, and let him try to make them run away, and see what they +will say. They will tell him that all white men are very good to those +who are good.” + +Ungomirwa called the Wanyamwezi to him, and asked them why they followed +the white man to wander about the world, leaving their brothers and +sisters. The question elicited the following reply:— + +“The white people know everything. They are better than the black people +in heart. We have abundance to eat, plenty to wear, and silver for +ourselves. All we give to the white man is our strength. We carry his +goods for him, and he bestows a father’s care on his black children. Let +Ungomirwa make friends with the white man, and do as he says, and it +will be good for the land of Unyamwezi.” + +To whatever cause it was owing, Ungomirwa returned the Arab nearly all +his property, and presented me with three bullocks; and during all the +time that I was his guest at Ubagwé, he exhibited great friendship for +me, and boasted of me to several Watuta visitors who came to see him +during that time; indeed, I can hardly remember a more agreeable stay at +any village in Africa than that which I made in Ubagwé. + +Unyamwezi is troubled with a vast number of petty kings, whose +paltriness and poverty have so augmented their pride, that each of them +employ more threats, and makes more demands, than Mtesa, Emperor of +Uganda. + +The adage that “Small things make base men proud” holds true in Africa +as in other parts of the world. Sayid bin Sayf, one of the Arabs at +Kafurro, begged me as I valued my property and peace of mind not to +march through Unyamwezi to Ujiji, but to travel through Uhha. I +attribute these words of Sayid’s to a desire on his part to hear of my +being mulcted by kings Khanza, Iwanda, and Kiti in the same proportion +that he was. He confessed that he had paid to Kiti sixty cloths, to +Iwanda sixty cloths, and to King Khanza 138, which amounted in value to +516 dollars, and this grieved the gentle merchant’s soul greatly. + +On my former journey in search of Livingstone, I tested sufficiently the +capacity of the chiefs of Uhha to absorb property, and I vowed then to +give them a wide berth for all future time. Sayid’s relation of his +experiences, confirmed by Hamed Ibrahim, and my own reverses, indicated +but too well the custom in vogue among the Wahha. So far, between +Kibogora’s capital and Ubagwé, I had only disbursed thirty cloths as +gifts to nine kings of Unyamwezi, without greater annoyance than the +trouble of having to reduce their demands by negotiation. + +No traveller has yet become acquainted with a wilder race in Equatorial +Africa than are the Mafitté or Watuta. They are the only true African +Bedawi; and surely some African Ishmael must have fathered them, for +their hands are against every man, and every man’s hand appears to be +raised against them. + +To slay a solitary Mtuta is considered by an Arab as meritorious, and +far more necessary, than killing a snake. To guard against these sable +freebooters, the traveller, while passing near their haunts, has need of +all his skill, coolness, and prudence. The settler in their +neighbourhood has need to defend his village with impregnable fences, +and to have look-outs night and day: his women and children require to +be guarded, and fuel can only be procured by strong parties, while the +ground has to be cultivated spear in hand, so constant is the fear of +the restless and daring tribe of bandits. + +The Watuta, by whose lands we are now about to travel, are a lost tribe +of the Mafitté, and became separated from the latter by an advance +towards the north in search of plunder and cattle. This event occurred +some thirty years ago. On their incursion they encountered the Warori, +who possessed countless herds of cattle. They fought with them for two +months at one place, and three months at another; and at last, +perceiving that the Warori were too strong for them—many of them having +been slain in the war and a large number of them (now known as the +Wahehé, and settled near Ugogo) having been cut off from the main body— +the Watuta skirted Urori, and advanced north-west through Ukonongo and +Kawendi to Ujiji. It is in the memory of the old Arab residents at Ujiji +how the Watuta suddenly appeared and drove them and the Wajiji to take +refuge upon Bangwé Island. + +Not glutted with conquest by their triumph at Ujiji, they attacked +Urundi; but here they met different foes altogether from the negroes +of the south. They next invaded Uhha, but the races which occupy the +intra-lake regions had competent and worthy champions in the Wahha. +Battled at Uhha and Urundi, they fought their devastating path across +Uvinza, and entered Unyamwezi, penetrated Usumbwa, Utambara, Urangwa, +Uyofu, and so through Uzinja to the Victoria Nyanza, where they rested +for some years after their daring exploit. But the lands about the lake +were not suited to their tastes, and they retraced their steps as far +as Utambara. Kututwa, king of Utambara, from policy, wooed the daughter +of the chief of the Watuta, and as a dower his land was returned to +him, while the Watuta moving south occupied the neighbouring country of +Ugomba, situate between Uhha and Unyamwezi. It is a well-watered and a +rich grazing country, therefore well adapted to their habits and modes +of life. The Kinyamwezi kings of Serombo, Ubagwé, Ureweh, Renzeweh, and +kings Mirambo and Phunze have contracted alliances with influential +chiefs, and are on tolerably good terms with them; but stubborn old +Myonga still holds aloof from the Watuta. + +It will be remembered by readers of ‘How I Found Livingstone’ how +Mirambo appeared at Tabora with thousands of the Watuta free-lances, +slaughtered Khamis bin Abdullah and five other Arabs, and ravaged that +populous settlement. From the above sketch of these terrible marauders, +they will now be able to understand how it was that he was able to +obtain their aid, while the following paragraph explains how I obtained +the facts of this predatory migration. + +[Illustration: ONE OF THE WATUTA.] + +The wife of Wadi Safeni—one of the Wangwana captains, and coxswain of +the _Lady Alice_ during her cruise round the Victoria Nyanza—when +proceeding one day outside the stockade of Ubagwé to obtain water, +accidentally heard our Watuta visitors gossiping together. The dialect +and accent sounding familiar to her, she listened, and a few moments +afterwards she was herself volubly discussing with them the geography of +the locality inhabited by the Mafitté between Lake Nyassa and Tanganika. +It was mainly from this little circumstance—confirmed by other +informants, Arab, Wangwana, and Wanyamwezi—that the above brief sketch +of the wanderings of the Watuta has been obtained. + +“Mono-Matapa,” that great African word, which, from its antiquity and +its persistent appearance on our maps—occupying various positions to +suit the vagaries of various cartographers and the hypotheses of various +learned travellers—has now become almost classic, bears a distant +relation to the tribe of the Watuta. + +The industrious traveller, Salt, in his book on Abyssinia, dated 1814, +says: + + “This country is commonly called Monomatapa, in the accounts of which + a perplexing obscurity has been introduced, by different authors + having confounded the names of the districts with the titles of the + sovereigns, indiscriminately styling them Quitéve, Mono-matapa, + Benemotapa, Bene-motasha, Chikanga, Manika, Bokaranga and Mokaranga. + The fact appears to be that the sovereign’s title was Quitéve, and the + name of the country Motapa, to which Mono has been prefixed, as in + Monomugi, and many other names on the coast, that beyond this lay a + district called Chikanga, which contained the mines of Manica, and + that the other names were applicable solely to petty districts at that + time under the rule of the Quitéve.” + +Zimbaoa, the capital of this interesting land, was said to be fifteen +days’ travel west from Sofala, and forty days’ travel from Senâ. + +Indefatigable and patient exploration by various intelligent travellers +has now enabled us to understand exactly the meaning of the various +names with which early geographers confused us. The ancient land of the +Mono-Matapa occupied that part of South-East Africa now held by the +Matabeles, and the empire embraced nearly all the various tribes and +clans now known by the popular terms of Kaffirs and Zulus. + +The reputation which Chaka obtained throughout that upland, extending +from the lands of the Hottentots to the Zambezi, roused, after his +death, various ambitious spirits. His great captains, leading warlike +hosts after them, spread terror and dismay among the tribes north, +south, and west. Mosèlé-katzé overran the Transvaal, and conquered the +Bechuanas, but was subsequently compelled by the Boers to migrate north, +where his people, now known as the Matabeles, have established +themselves under Lo Bengwella, his successor. + +Sebituané, another warlike spirit after the style of Chaka, put himself +at the head of a tribe of the Basutos, and, after numerous conquests +over small tribes, established his authority and people along the +Zambezi, under the name of Makololo. Sebituané was succeeded by +Sekeletu, Livingstone’s friend, and he by Impororo—the last of the +Makololo kings. + +One of Chaka’s generals was called Mani-Koos. It ought to be mentioned +here that Mani, Mana, Mono, Moeni, Muini, Muinyi, are all prefixes, +synonymous with lord, prince, and sometimes son: for example, +Mana-Koos, Mani-Ema, now called Man-yema and Mana-Mputu, lord of the +sea; Mono-Matapa, Mana-Ndenga, Mana-Butti, Mana-Kirembu, Mana-Mamba, +and so forth. In Uregga the prefix becomes Wana, or Wane, as in +Wane-Mbesa, Wane-Kirumbu, Wane Kamankua, Wana-Kipangu, Wana-Mukwa, +and Wana-Rukura; while in the Bateké and the Babwendé lands it is +changed into Mwana, as Mwana-Ibaka, or Mwana-Kilungu, which title was +given to the Livingstone river by the Babwendé, meaning “lord of the +sea.” To return. This Mani-Koos, a general of Chaka’s, attacked the +Portuguese at Delagoa Bay, Sofala, and Inhambané, and compelled them +to pay tribute. The party then crossed the Zambezi river above Teté, +the capital of the Portuguese territory, and, after ravaging the lands +along the Nyassa, finally established itself north-west of the Nyassa, +between that lake and the Tanganika. To-day they are known as the +Manitu, Mafitté, or Ma-viti; and three offshoots of this tribe are—the +Watuta in the neighbourhood of Zombé, south-east end of Lake Tanganika; +the Wahehé, who cause such dire trouble to the Wagogo; and the Watuta, +the allies of Mirambo, and called by the Wanyamwezi the Mwangoni. + +_May 4._—On the 4th of May, having received the milch cows, calves, and +bullocks from my new brother Mirambo, we marched in a south-south-west +direction, skirting the territory of the Watuta, to Ruwinga, a village +occupying a patch of cleared land, and ruled by a small chief who is a +tributary to his dreaded neighbours. + +_May 5._—The next day, in good order, we marched across a portion of the +territory of the Watuta. No precaution was omitted to ensure our being +warned in time of the presence of the enemy, nor did we make any delay +on the road, as a knowledge of their tactics of attack assured us that +this was our only chance of avoiding a conflict with them. Msené, after +a journey of twenty miles, was reached about 2 P.M., and the king, +Mulagwa, received us with open arms. + +The population of the three villages under Mulagwa probably numbers +about 3500. The king of the Watuta frequently visits Mulagwa’s district; +but his strongly fenced villages and large number of muskets have been +sufficient to check the intentions of the robbers, though atrocious acts +are often committed upon the unwary. + +Maganga, the dilatory chief of one of my caravans during the first +Expedition, was discovered here, and, on the strength of a long +acquaintance with my merits, induced Mulagwa to exert himself for my +comfort. + +I saw a poor woman, a victim of a raid by the Watuta, who, having been +accidentally waylaid by them in the fields, had had her left foot +barbarously cut off. + +Ten miles south-west of Msené is Kawangira, a district about ten miles +square, governed by the chief Nyambu, a rival of Mulagwa. Relics of the +ruthlessness and devastating attacks of the Watuta are visible between +the two districts, and the once populous land is rapidly resuming its +original appearance of a tenantless waste. + +_May 9._—The next village, Nganda, ten miles south-west from Kawangira, +was reached on the 9th of May. From this place, as far as Usenda +(distant fourteen miles south-south-west), extended a plain, inundated +with from 2 to 5 feet of water from the flooded Gombé which rises about +forty miles south-east of Unyanyembé. Where the Gombé meets with the +Malagarazi, there is a spacious plain, which during each rainy season is +converted into a lake. + +We journeyed to the important village of Usagusi on the 12th, in a +south-south-west direction. Like Serombo, Myonga’s, Urangwa, Ubagwé, and +Msené, it is strongly stockaded, and the chief, conscious that the +safety of his principal village depends upon the care he bestows upon +its defences, exacts heavy fines upon those of his people who manifest +any reluctance to repair the stockade; and this vigilant prudence has +hitherto baffled the wolf-like marauders of Ugomba. + +I met another old friend of mine at the next village, Ugara. He was a +visitor to my camp at Kuziri, in Ukimbu, in 1871. Ugara is seventeen +miles west-south-west. I found it troubled with a “war,” or two wars, +one between Kazavula and Uvinza, the other between Ibango of Usenyé and +Mkasiwa of Unyanyembé. + +Twenty-five miles in a westerly direction, through a depopulated land, +brought us to Zegi, in Uvinza, where we found a large caravan, under an +Arab in the employ of Sayid bin Habib. Amongst these natives of Zanzibar +was a man who had accompanied Cameron and Tippu-Tib to Utotera. Like +other Münchhausens of his race, he informed me upon oath that he had +seen a ship upon a lake west of Utotera, manned by black Wazungu, or +black Europeans! + +Before reaching Zegi, we saw Sivué lake, a body of water fed by the +Sagala river: it is about seven miles wide by fourteen miles long. +Through a broad bed, choked by reeds and grass and tropical plants, it +empties into the Malagarazi river near Kiala. + +Zegi village also swarmed with Rusunzu’s warriors. Rusunzu has succeeded +his father, Nzogera, as king of Uvinza, and, being energetic, is +disposed to combat Mirambo’s ambitious projects of annexation. I took +care not to disclose our relationship with Mirambo, lest the warriors +might have supposed we countenanced his designs against their beloved +land. + +These warriors, perceiving that the word Ruga-Ruga, or bandits, +influences weak minds, call themselves by that name, and endeavour to +distinguish themselves by arresting all native travellers suspected of +hostility or property. One of these unfortunates just captured was about +to have his weasand cut, when I suggested that he had better be sold, as +his corpse would be useless. + +“You buy him, then,” said the excited fellows; “give us ten cloths for +him.” + +“White men don’t buy slaves; but rather than you should murder an +innocent man, I will give you two for him.” + +After considerable discussion, it was agreed that he should be +transferred to me for two cloths; but the poor old fellow was so injured +from the brutal treatment he had undergone that he died a few days +afterwards. + +Zegi, swarming with a reckless number of lawless men, was not a +comfortable place to dwell in. The conduct of these men was another +curious illustration of how “small things make base men proud.” Here +were a number of youths suffering under that strange disease peculiar to +vain youth in all lands which Mirambo had called “big head.” The manner +in which they strutted about, their big looks and bold staring, their +enormous feathered head-dresses and martial stride, were most offensive. +Having adopted, from bravado, the name of Ruga-Ruga, they were compelled +in honour to imitate the bandits’ custom of smoking banghi (wild hemp), +and my memory fails to remind me of any similar experience to the wild +screaming and stormy sneezing, accompanied day and night by the +monotonous droning of the one-string guitar (another accomplishment _de +rigueur_ with the complete bandit) and the hiccuping, snorting, and +vocal extravagances which we had to bear in the village of Zegi. + +_May 18._—We paid a decent tribute of fifteen cloths to Rusunzu, out of +the infamous “sixty” he had demanded through his Mutwaré or chief; and +the Mutwaré received only four out of the twenty he had said should be +paid to himself; and after the termination of the bargaining we marched +to Ugaga, on the Malagarazi, on the 18th. + +_May 20._—The Mutwaré of Ugaga the next day made a claim of forty doti +or cloths before giving us permission to cross the Malagarazi. I sent +Frank with twenty men to a point three miles below Ugaga to prepare our +boat; and meanwhile we delayed negotiations until a messenger came from +Frank informing us that the boat was ready, and then after making a +tentative offer of two cloths, which was rejected with every ludicrous +expression of contempt, we gave four. The Mutwaré then said that Rusunzu +the king had commanded that we should return to Zegi to fight his +enemies, otherwise he withheld his permission to cross the river. At +this piece of despotism we smiled, and marched towards the boat, where +we camped. At 4 A.M. of the 20th of May I had eighty guns across the +mile-wide[38] Malagarazi, and by 3 P.M. the entire Expedition, and our +Arab friends whom we had met at Zegi, were in Northern Uvinza. + +_May 21._—The next day, avoiding the scorched plains of Uhha, of bitter +memory to me, we journeyed to Ruwhera, eleven miles; thence to Mansumba, +due west, nine miles and a half through a thin jungle; whence we +despatched some Wanyamwezi across the frontier to Uhha to purchase corn +for the support of the Expedition in the wilderness between Uvinza and +Ujiji. + +Strange to say, the Wahha, who are the most extortionate tribute-takers +in Africa, will not interfere with a caravan when once over the +frontier, but will readily sell them food. About fifty Wahha even +brought grain and fowls for sale to our camp at Mansumba. Though truth +compels me to say that we should have fared very badly had we travelled +through Uhha, I must do its people the justice to say that they are not +churlish to strangers beyond their own limits. + +It is a great pity that the Malagarazi is not navigable. There is a +difference of nearly 900 feet between the altitude of Ugaga and that of +Ujiji. One series of falls are south-south-west from Ruwhera, about +twenty-five miles below Ugaga. There is another series of falls about +twenty miles from the Tanganika. + +_May 24._—At noon on the 24th we camped on the western bank of the +Rusugi river. A small village, called Kasanga, is situated two miles +above the ford. Near the crossing on either side are the salt-pans of +Uvinza, which furnish a respectable revenue to its king. A square mile +of ground is strewn with broken pots, embers of fires, the refuse of the +salt, lumps of burnt clay, and ruined huts. As Rusunzu now owns all the +land to within fifteen miles of Ujiji, there is no one to war with for +the undisputed possession of the salt-pans. + +Through a forest jungle separated at intervals by narrow strips of +plain, and crossing six small tributaries of the Malagarazi by the way, +we journeyed twenty-three miles, to a camp near the frontier of the +district of Uguru, or the hill country of Western Uhha. + +The northern slopes of these mountain masses of Uguru, about fifteen +miles north of the sources of the Liuché, are drained by the southern +feeders of the Alexandra Nile; the western, by the Mshala; the southern +by the Liuché; and the eastern, by the Uhha tributaries of the +Malagarazi. The boundaries of Uhha, Urundi, and Ujiji meet at these +mountains, which are probably 6500 feet above the sea. + +We greeted our friend of Niamtaga, whom we had met in November in 1871, +but, alas for him! two weeks later he was taken by surprise by Rusunzu, +and massacred with nearly three-fourths of his people. + +_May 27._—At noon of the 27th of May the bright waters of the Tanganika +broke upon the view, and compelled me to linger admiringly for a while, +as I did on the day I first beheld them. By 3 P.M. we were in Ujiji. +Muini Kheri, Mohammed bin Gharib, Sultan bin Kassim, and Khamis the +Baluch greeted me kindly. Mohammed bin Sali was dead. Nothing was +changed much, except the ever-changing mud tembés of the Arabs. The +square or plaza where I met David Livingstone in November 1871 is now +occupied by large tembés. The house where he and I lived has long ago +been burnt down, and in its place there remain only a few embers and a +hideous void. The lake expands with the same grand beauty before the +eyes as we stand in the market-place. The opposite mountains of Goma +have the same blue-black colour, for they are everlasting, and the +Liuché river continues its course as brown as ever just east and south +of Ujiji. The surf is still as restless, and the sun as bright; the sky +retains its glorious azure, and the palms all their beauty: but the +grand old hero, whose presence once filled Ujiji with such absorbing +interest for me, was gone! + +----- + +# 38: + + In the dry season the Malagarazi is only about 60 yards wide at Ugaga. + + + + + + + + + --------------------------------------------------------- + + LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, STAMFORD STREET + AND CHARING CROSS. + +------------------------------------------------------------------------ + + Transcriber’s Note + +The hyphenation of compound words is not always consistent. When such +words appear midline, they are retained as printed. Where the +hyphenation occurs on a line break, the hyphen is either removed or +retained to agree with the preponderance of appearances elsewhere. + +Other errors deemed most likely to be the printer’s have been corrected, +and are noted here. The references are to the page and line in the +original. + + 26.32 is very approp[r]iately termed Inserted. + 56.40 to observe th[r]oughout our journey Inserted. + 59.40 Living[s]tone’s discoveries Inserted. + 62.24 employment to abo[n/u]t 80 adults Inverted. + 70.4 D[n/u]doma[—] Transposed/Inserted. + 71.14 was di[s]covered Inserted. + 72.37 on every side[.] Restored. + 79.26 broad and dry sandy st[r]eam-bed Inserted. + 90.2 An imme[u/n]se area Inverted. + 93.6 [‘/“]I have seen the lake Replaced. + 114.3 chief of Kageh[y]i Inserted. + 116.33 making or repa[i]ring Inserted. + 117.26 the Wasuk[u]ma recruits Inserted. + 164.10 the [s/f]ew days Replaced. + 184.10 Safeni asked one [of] them, Supplied. + 188.19 combining to mu[l]tiply the terrors Inserted. + 190.27 in its veins[,/.] Replaced. + 191.19 besides three others[.] Restored. + 198.9 “Mohoro![”] [“]Eg sura?” Added. + 233.2 “Jack[’]s Mount” Added. + 233.5 [‘/“]What do you know Replaced. + 270.31 at a much earl[y/ier] period Replaced. + 307.44 he drinks[,] Added. + 326.2 Sambu[s/z]i ordered to take me Replaced. + 328.13 listen to my words[.] Added. + 349.43 the cliffs of Muta Nzig[è/é]. Replaced. + 350.10 to depart in peace[,/.] Replaced. + 351.34 what is Stamlee going to do now[./?] Replaced. + 368.7 and full of guile verily[.] Added. + 426.20 seconded Saba[b/d]u Replaced. + + + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 75926 *** |