Initial commit of ebook 77171 filesHEADmain

10 files changed, 8029 insertions, 0 deletions

diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6833f05
--- /dev/null
+++ b/.gitattributes
@@ -0,0 +1,3 @@
+* text=auto
+*.txt text
+*.md text
diff --git a/77171-0.txt b/77171-0.txt
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ab7a159
--- /dev/null
+++ b/77171-0.txt
@@ -0,0 +1,3204 @@
+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 77171 ***
+
+
+
+
+  TRANSCRIBER’S NOTE
+
+  Italic text is denoted by _underscores_.
+
+  Some minor changes to the text are noted at the end of the book.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: ENCAMPMENT AT MOLGUILLA, CHILI.
+
+  _On stone by W. Walton_
+
+  A. _Wreck of H. M. Ship Challenger_
+  B. _Tent for the Chilenos from Arauco_
+  C. _Tent put up for Cheuquante’s Indians_
+  D. _Ship’s Company Tent_
+  E. _Tent for Capt^n. & Officers_
+
+  _Printed by C Hullmandel_
+]
+
+
+
+
+                                   A
+
+                                 DIARY
+
+                                   OF
+
+                    THE WRECK OF HIS MAJESTY’S SHIP
+
+                              CHALLENGER,
+
+                                 ON THE
+
+                    WESTERN COAST OF SOUTH AMERICA,
+
+                             IN MAY, 1835.
+
+                           WITH AN ACCOUNT OF
+
+               THE SUBSEQUENT ENCAMPMENT OF THE OFFICERS
+                               AND CREW,
+
+                    DURING A PERIOD OF SEVEN WEEKS,
+
+                                 ON THE
+
+                         SOUTH COAST OF CHILI.
+
+
+                                LONDON:
+                              PRINTED FOR
+             LONGMAN, REES, ORME, BROWN, GREEN, & LONGMAN,
+                            PATERNOSTER-ROW.
+                                 1836.
+
+
+
+
+                                LONDON:
+                      Printed by A. Spottiswoode,
+                           New-Street-Square.
+
+
+
+
+DIRECTIONS FOR PLACING THE PLATES.
+
+
+  Encampment at Molquilla       _to face the Title_.
+
+  Molquilla Beach                   _to face page_ 6
+
+  Plan of Molquilla Camp                          30
+
+  View of the Leubu Camp                          98
+
+
+
+
+A DIARY
+
+OF
+
+THE WRECK OF HIS MAJESTY’S SHIP
+
+CHALLENGER.
+
+
+On the first day of April, 1835, His Majesty’s ship Challenger sailed
+from Rio Janeiro for the Pacific, with orders to touch at the port of
+Concepçion in our way to Valparaiso, at which place we hoped either to
+find the commodore commanding on the western coasts of South America,
+or directions for our further proceedings. Valparaiso and Concepçion
+are the two principal seaports of the republic of Chili; the former
+being the most important, as receiving the great bulk of manufactures,
+and other numerous and various exports from Europe.
+
+The object of the Challenger’s calling at Concepçion, situated about
+300 miles south of Valparaiso, and laying in the route of the latter
+port, was for the purpose of procuring a supply of wood and water, for
+which Concepçion offers peculiar facilities.
+
+The first part of our voyage was a series of calms, with light variable
+winds; and our progress to the southward was slow, until we reached the
+latitude of 31° south. We then began to experience fresh westerly and
+southerly winds, which, with little variation, continued until we had
+arrived in the vicinity of Cape Horn. Nothing had occurred worthy of
+notice, except that numerous flying-fish were seen as far south as the
+latitude of 40°. Off the Cape, in latitude 60°, after a short interval
+of calm, a number of what we only know by the name of black fish
+attracted our attention by the peculiarity of their movements, and the
+closeness of their approach to the ship; and we experienced a severe
+gale, which began in the south, and gradually veered to S.S.W. and
+S.W., accompanied by an unusually high sea, with constant hail squalls.
+
+_May 4._--The wind blew violently from S. and S.S.W., with a heavy sea
+and hard squalls of hail and snow. It was of consequence to draw the
+ship to the westward, and to this end we carried our close-reefed
+main-topsails and reefed foresail; the wind being about two points
+abaft the beam; the ship behaving remarkably well, but lurching deeply;
+and on one occasion she made so heavy a plunge, that a long lee sea
+came in over all, staving in the lee quarter gallery, moving the
+sheet-anchor, floating our spars in the lee channels, and actually
+wetting the legs of several persons who were securing their holdfast
+under the weather bulwarks. We looked on this as a hint to batten
+down our main-deck hatchways; to take the canvass off her; and, as
+night was closing in, the main-topsail and foresail were furled, and
+the ship eventually hove-to, under the fore and main-staysails; the
+latter having been, in our first attempt to set it, blown to leeward
+by the carrying away of our staysail stay. In this breeze a heavy sea
+struck the bows and cutwater, and with a most singular result, for it
+carried away the crown of our figure-head from the forehead upwards;
+and the ominous remark of the person who reported the circumstance
+to the officer of the watch was, “Sir, she has lost her brains.” The
+weather continued stormy, with heavy squalls of hail, with little
+intermission, till the 6th and 7th of May; when we experienced a
+severe gale off the entrance of the Straits of Magellan, and under the
+double-reefed courses, which was as much sail as the masts and yards
+would bear; and, in a long high sea, the good qualities of the ship
+called forth the undivided praise of all on board.
+
+_May 17._--In latitude 41°, and longitude 80° 43′ W., the weather
+appeared to have undergone a change for the better. The barometer,
+which had been for several weeks very low, now rose to the height
+usually shown on the coasts of Peru, and the northern parts of the
+coast of Chili; and many were the mutual congratulations exchanged
+on board, on our having at length got into fine moderate weather,
+securing, as we conceived the ultimate object in view, that of arriving
+at the port of Concepçion, then only two days’ sail in distance from
+us. Good observations were obtained on this day, the results of which
+were found to agree closely with our estimation as shown by the dead
+reckoning. The topgallant masts were sent aloft, together with the
+studding-sail booms, and a variety of gear, which, during our stormy
+weather, had been sent on deck to relieve the masts and ship; and all
+the necessary sail was made in the direction of our destined port. The
+wind S.W.; the course steered N.N.E.
+
+_May 18._--The weather became thick, with a fresh wind. The 19th
+produced little change, except that we were enabled to get a good set
+of sights of the sun for our chronometers, by which, with our latitude
+by dead reckoning, we worked out our longitude, the correctness of
+which we had no reason whatever to doubt. At noon Concepçion bore
+from us N. 52°, 41° E., 146 miles. At 5 P.M. the ship was hove-to,
+the chain cables bent, and the usual preparation made on approaching
+an anchorage. The deep-sea lead was tried in upwards of 200 fathoms,
+but without striking soundings. Sail was again made in the ship,
+treble-reefed topsails, courses, and fore-topmast staysail.
+
+At 8 P.M., after a careful examination of the ship’s place on the
+charts, directions were given to haul the ship to the wind on the
+larboard tack. This was done at about 10 minutes after 8 o’clock, and
+it allowed her to lay along shore, N. half E., the wind being about
+W.N.W., reducing her rate of going to about four knots; at which pace
+it was proposed to allow her to continue, until daylight permitted us
+to bear up, and again make sail for our destination, Talcuhuana Bay,
+the anchorage of Concepçion. The weather at this time was still hazy,
+the wind moderate, the water smooth, and stars appearing occasionally
+overhead, with an expected moon at midnight, promising us a quiet fine
+night: but the Almighty had ordered it otherwise, and a most awful and
+perilous shipwreck awaited us.
+
+At about 9 45′ P.M., the look-out men having been visited but a few
+minutes before, breakers were seen at the same moment by them and the
+officer of the watch, who also remarked a new and peculiar motion
+in the movement of the ship. The helm was instantly put down, and
+the watch hurried to their stations to tack the ship; the captain,
+calling for the hands to be turned up as he flew upon deck, and as the
+ship had answered the helm though rising to a very high sea, and was
+coming round, hauled the after-yards. Orders were given to stand by
+the anchors; but almost immediately afterwards the order “to keep fast
+the anchors,” and haul the head-yards. In accomplishing this latter
+operation a high surf struck the bows; the ship, lifting to the heavy
+swell, got sternway, and struck with a dreadful crash, her keel taking
+the rocks about midships: another sea followed, which threw her
+on her starboard beam-ends, the surf at the same time breaking over
+and into the ship with a force sufficient to wash the men from the
+decks. Most miraculously, however, no serious accident now occurred,
+nor was any greater injury sustained than by the men at the helm,
+who were thrown over the wheel, and severely bruised. We were now at
+the mercy of the heaviest surf it is possible to conceive; the ship
+labouring in a most fearful manner, falling over on either broadside,
+and righting herself as the weight and force of the sea affected her;
+and the warning orders were reiterated to hold on, and keep out of
+the way of the masts, which were every moment expected to fall. The
+masts, however, stood, though many of the loftier back-stays, stay, and
+braces, came down, but, fortunately, without injury to any one.
+
+[Illustration: MOLGUILLA BEACH,
+  _shewing the Wreck of_
+  H.M.S. Challenger.
+  _on the West Coast of South America in_
+  Latitude 37° 49′ S.
+  Longitude 73° 34′ W.
+  _Wrecked on May 19th 1835 at 9.45 P.M._
+  _Rise of Tide about 2 feet but much depends on the state of the
+  Weather and Wind at Sea._
+
+  Reference to Plan
+
+  1. _Ship standing in on a wind, on larboard tack head N.N.E. (true)._
+  2. _Ship stayed head S.S.W. when the first breaker struck her._
+  3. _Position when she first struck head S.S.E._
+  4. _Supposed situation when the mizen mast was cut away, the Ship having
+  been thrown over a sunken ledge of rocks into 6 feet water sandy bottom
+  the surf breaking over larboard side with great violence._
+  5. _Ship at daylight on the 20th when the Jollyboat left with the
+  lead line._
+  6. _Situation when abandoned on the 7th June, buried 9 feet in the sand.
+  The flat staff on the Leubu Head bore from Tucapel Point N b E (true)
+  about 15 miles._]
+
+A few minutes had been sufficient to place us in this most frightful
+and truly awful situation; a situation requiring the greatest degree
+of firmness, as well as promptitude of action. A thick dense fog,
+which hung on the water, gave us no warning of the silent and terrible
+rollers; the first of which, on being discovered, launched us amongst
+the breakers, which were now roaring with fury around us, drenching to
+the skin every individual on the deck as they broke with violence into
+the ship. The brilliancy of the surf and spray, added to the sad and
+gloomy character of the night, made our frightful situation the more
+apparent; and, for a considerable interval of time, so heavily did the
+ship continue to strike, that it appeared impossible for any human
+power to prevent her from going to pieces, or to conceal from ourselves
+the appalling prospect of a watery grave for every soul on board.
+
+By the important decision of keeping fast the anchors, and cutting
+away the mizzen-mast, the ship appeared to be relieved abaft, and to
+be thrown over rocks into what we fancied to be a shoal; whereas; if
+she had been at all checked by an anchor, all must have perished on
+the spot where she struck. A heavy surf continued to roll in on us,
+the spray breaking high over us on the decks: the hand-leads, however,
+satisfied us that we were on sand, through which the weight of the sea
+was forcing the ship; and, as she providentially took up a position
+with her bow to the surf, hope began to dawn amongst us of the ship’s
+holding together, and hence a chance for the safety of our lives, when
+daylight should assist us in discovering the means of attempting it.
+Another danger had also excited our apprehensions, from an appearance
+of dark water astern of us, inside the surf, apparently rendering
+it indispensable to drop our anchors to hold the ship on the sand,
+to avoid foundering in deep water: for we had become aware of the
+impossibility of keeping her afloat, as she had been seriously bilged
+about midships, the tanks and chain cables rising to the lower deck as
+the ship worked in the sand in which she was now embedded. The leads,
+however, continuing to assure us that she still bedded with tolerable
+firmness, the anchors were kept fast; the prudence and good fortune
+of which step daylight fully disclosed to us. On her first striking
+amongst the breakers, the rudder was carried away, the gun-room beams
+and cabin deck forced up, and a vast body of water coming in astern
+flooded the gun-room and lower deck: many of the timbers on the
+starboard side were heard to break with a fearful crash.
+
+The excellent conduct and good discipline of all on board, in this
+extremity of danger, merited the highest praise. Although every
+heart must have felt the hopelessness of our situation, there was
+evinced that steady attention to the orders which were given, free
+from confusion or the slightest disobedience. How frequently did
+we afterwards remark on the fatal result that must inevitably have
+followed any rash attempt which, under the influence of terror, might
+have been made, to quit the wreck, and, I trust, with feelings of
+humble thankfulness to the providential mercy which had thus far
+preserved and directed us.
+
+The main-deck ports had been caulked in for our voyage round Cape Horn,
+and had fortunately not been started. The main-deck hatchways were
+battened down; but it was necessary to scuttle the lower deck, from
+the quantity of water taken in over all. From the drawing of the ship
+through the sand, the hand-pumps constantly going, enabled us to keep
+her sufficiently free to allow us to get up a considerable quantity of
+dry biscuit, which was put into some of our empty water-casks: some
+ball-cartridges were also got up, and placed in the dryest situation
+on the main-deck. Yet, at this time, so slender was the hope of saving
+ourselves, or any thing belonging to us, that the ship’s accounts,
+with a private packet or two, were secured in a cask, to be thrown
+overboard, with the chance of its reaching the shore, and telling the
+fate of the poor Challenger.
+
+Towards midnight, some officers and men thought they perceived land
+astern; and, on the starboard quarter, many were the eyes which eagerly
+sought out a gleam for their deliverance. We now attempted, by means
+of blue lights and rockets thrown in the direction, to ascertain the
+existence of land, but without success. The moon having at length
+risen, we, at about 2 30′ A.M., after anxiously watching the dispersion
+of some heavy clouds, got sufficient moonlight to make certain the
+sight of land. Those who witnessed that moment will long remember the
+joy and emotion which it gave rise to; for the horrors of the preceding
+four hours had been surcharged with the torturing apprehension of
+lingering death. Dark and desponding must be that mind which, at such a
+crisis, could not derive some solace in the hope of succour from that
+omnipotent Being, who governs the storm, and alone has the power to
+save.
+
+The weather continued dark and gloomy, with occasional drizzling rain,
+but little wind, though squally-looking clouds were passing rapidly
+over our heads--a high irregular surf breaking on all sides around us
+with a noise and roar not to be forgotten. The dangerous nature of
+the surf made it evident that no common boat could pass through it in
+safety; and the ship having become, in a measure, less laboursome,
+the jolly-boat and gig were prepared as life-boats by lashing to them
+small boats’ breakers and spars, to be ready for use on the return of
+daylight.
+
+_May 20._--At daylight the shore presented a long, low, flat sandy
+beach, with a tremendous surf rolling in on it, extending to the
+southward a distance interminable to the eye; in the W.N.W. direction
+an elevated promontory of land extended out to the westward, with a
+reef of scattered rocks, distant from us between two and three miles.
+To land the crew was the first object to which our attention was
+directed. The only mode to effect this appeared to be by succeeding
+in establishing a means of communication by a rope, or hawser, whence
+to raft the crew from the ship to the beach, the nearest distance to
+which was about two cable-lengths. With this view the jolly-boat was
+lowered over the stern into the surf under the charge of Mr. A. Booth,
+mate, and a volunteer crew of seven men; and, after a long struggle,
+they succeeded in reaching the beach with the end of the deep sea
+lead-line; but, owing to the strong set of the current along shore to
+the southward, the spot on which they landed was at least half a mile
+distant from that part of the beach immediately astern and nearest the
+ship. The jolly-boat was no sooner washed upon the beach, than the
+crew, thoroughly drenched, began the labour of endeavouring to tauten
+the line in the direction astern of the ship; but, after many fruitless
+attempts to do so, it was evident to us on board that a second boat,
+with more assistance, was absolutely necessary to effect this object.
+The bite of the line was much checked by the current and masses of
+shifting sand, caused by the immense back-set off the beach. It was
+now the gig was launched over the stern by means of the spanker-boom,
+rigged as a derick, and secured to the stump of the mizzen-mast,
+with a topping lift to the mainmasthead, and hung ready to drop at
+a favourable moment into the surf: she was the captain’s gig, and
+considered to possess qualities likely to ensure equal success with the
+boat that had already reached the shore, being carefully fitted in a
+similar manner.
+
+Into the gig went Mr. Gordon, midshipman, a most zealous volunteer, who
+had anxiously sought the dangerous attempt of going in the first boat:
+with him were six volunteer seamen. One of the six, serving his time
+on board for having been a smuggler, and possessed of great activity
+and strength, was placed in the charge and management of the steer-oar,
+the nature of the surf rendering a rudder useless. On leaving the stern
+of the ship, cheered by all on board, they passed over a roller or two
+in security, and the superior management of the steer-oar appeared to
+promise certain success. But, alas! another and another terrific roller
+followed, the gig broached-to, was instantly capsised, and whirled
+over and over. This heartrending sight again damped the hopes of all;
+and what added to the cruel and distressing situation of those in the
+ship, was the impossibility of rendering the least assistance to our
+poor shipmates, now struggling with death in the dangerous surf. Most
+anxiously were our glasses directed to the spot, when occasionally, as
+they drifted to the southward, their heads were at moments visible.
+
+By this melancholy accident perished Mr. Gordon, a most excellent
+young man, possessed of every quality to fit him for the highest
+station in his profession. He was much esteemed by his captain, not
+only for his efficiency, but for his many estimable qualities. He was
+greatly beloved by his brother shipmates, and much regretted by all.
+John Edwards, an excellent seaman, was also lost by this sad event.
+Their bodies were never found, and were supposed to have either been
+carried out to sea by the back-set, or buried in the sand. The others
+of the crew of the gig were taken out of the water by the crew of the
+jolly-boat, nearly exhausted, and more than three quarters of a mile to
+the southward.
+
+At about 6 A.M. this morning (20th), a ship was discovered through
+the haze about three or four miles outside the breakers, standing in
+for the land. Seeing the danger of her situation, one of the after
+main-deck ports was opened, two guns fired as a signal to her, and
+an ensign hoisted to the main-topmast crosstrees, with the union
+downwards: she tacked, and stood off, hoisting Swedish colours. The
+rollers broke outside us, to a distance of at least a mile and a
+quarter, and it was impossible for her to render us any assistance:
+little doubt existed amongst us, that we were the hapless beacon of her
+danger: another hour’s dark might have placed her alongside us.
+
+A three and a half inch hawser had, after much labour, been dragged to
+the beach: we had now constructed two rafts, by lashing on empty casks
+strong cross spars, yards, and mess tables; and about 11 A.M. it was
+determined to try the first by sending a lieutenant and seven men, a
+kedge-anchor, a stout hawser, and a hawling line, which reached the
+shore with difficulty, far to the southward, and was thrown so high on
+the beach, and so shaken, that she could not again be launched this
+day. About 2 P.M. the second raft was hoisted over, and, with the first
+lieutenant, assistant surgeon, captain’s clerk, several of the junior
+midshipmen, who were secured to the raft by life lines, and thirteen
+seamen, making a total in number of nineteen persons, were successful
+in landing in safety. The weight and draft of this raft, from its load
+(having, in addition to the passengers, several articles of provisions
+and arms), made the operation of getting a footing on the beach, from
+the back set of the surf; a critical one; and it was on this occasion
+that a small body of Indians, on horses, many of whom had been first
+seen approaching from the hills soon after daylight, dashed into the
+water, and with their lazos assisted the landing of those on it. One of
+the most active of the party was an Indian woman.
+
+Our kedge anchor was now buried, and the stout hawser hauled on board,
+and hove taut, and an attempt to make a second trip with the last
+raft; but it was upset in the surf, under the stern, and one seaman
+who had jumped upon it was a long time in great peril of being washed
+off it, whilst it drifted back to the beach, the slip rope which had
+attached it to the hawser, by which it had been hove off, having
+parted. At 3 P.M. the ship appeared to have neared the shore, and it
+was determined to lash some stout spars to the cutter, and launch her.
+She landed safely, though nearly filled with water, having conveyed on
+shore officers, seamen, and marines, to the number of thirteen. It was
+now nearly dusk, and the whole number landed scarcely exceeded fifty
+persons. All hands were greatly exhausted, from fatigue both of mind
+and body, were drenched with wet, and required rest. The comfortless
+situation of those on shore, on a barren sand, wet through, with
+scanty refreshment, and a bitter cold frosty night, may be imagined;
+great anxiety also existing as to the fate of their shipmates on
+board. A watch was kept on the beach throughout the night, whilst
+others got shelter under the rafts, and on the side of a mound of
+sand, at some little distance. To those in the ship an equal share of
+excessive fatigue and mental anxiety had rendered rest from labour most
+necessary. The ship continued buried in the sand, and was comparatively
+quiet, although at intervals labouring, and feeling most sensibly the
+weighty shocks of the unceasing rollers. A watch attended throughout
+the night to observe the lead lines; the anchors were kept ready in the
+event of its being found necessary to drop them, in order to retain
+the ship’s bows in their position towards the rollers; and the pumps
+kept working. Much had been done during the past day not yet mentioned:
+the danger as well as difficulty of communication with the shore had
+occasioned a vast quantity of the bedding and clothes of the crew to be
+thrown overboard, attached to pieces of spars, which, on being washed
+on shore, were received by those on the beach. In addition to these
+articles were casks filled with bread, casks of salt pork, and a great
+number and variety of other things. Amongst these a quantity of segars,
+which had been put into empty bottles and securely corked, were washed
+up in good condition.
+
+Captain Seymour had hastily written a letter to His Majesty’s consul
+at Concepçion, from which place we hoped we were not very distant,
+of which the assistant surgeon, who spoke a little Spanish, and the
+clerk of the Challenger, had volunteered to be the bearers. They had
+landed in the second raft; and to find a fit person to conduct these
+gentlemen, in an unknown country, through thick woods, across rivers,
+along roads in places almost impassable, was an object of the greatest
+interest and importance, and which the suspicious countenances of the
+Indians, who had become numerous around us, and to whom we could not
+make ourselves understood, afforded little promise of accomplishing. By
+a most providential circumstance Camilo Hermosillo, a Spanish Chilino
+from the neighbourhood of the frontier town of Arauco, had come to the
+southward to purchase cattle, and hearing of a wreck, had accompanied
+an Indian cacique to the spot of our misfortune. This honest man gave
+the clue to all our future correspondence.
+
+After much negotiation, and being piqued on his Castilian blood, and
+with fair promises of reward, Camilo undertook to become the guide,
+and procure the horses necessary for a journey to Concepçion. We were
+indebted to the zealous exertions of Mr. Sarjeant, the purser, for our
+success, which is to be attributed, in a great measure, to his perfect
+knowledge of the Spanish language and character.
+
+From Camilo we obtained the first outline of our situation. We
+were informed that the name of the spot on which we were wrecked
+was Molquilla, in the province of Arauco, sixty leagues south of
+Concepçion, and about thirty-five miles from the island of Mocha; and
+by observations afterwards taken on shore with our artificial horizon,
+in latitude 37° 48′ 48″ south, and longitude 73° 34′ 30″ west. It
+lies at the extreme southern verge of that portion of the Araucanian
+Indian territory in which the Indians tacitly acknowledge the authority
+of the Chilian government; and under its influence the caciques had,
+for the previous twelve months, been carrying on a war of extermination
+against the more southern Indians of Tucapel, Tercia, and Imperial. We
+also learnt that, on the 20th of February last, the city of Concepçion
+had been totally destroyed by an earthquake, since which shocks had
+been continually felt upon the coast in the vicinity, and of which
+we had soon experience. The position on the beach where the landing
+had been made was described as untenable; and it was recommended to
+take the highest elevation that the small sand-hills on the extensive
+flat around us afforded, as a security from the rising of the sea,
+which in three days after rose far above the spot on which our first
+communication with Camilo took place, and level with the base of
+the small sand-hill of scarcely ten feet elevation on which we were
+encamped.
+
+With the assistance of the Indian cacique, horses were procured; and
+with the greatest satisfaction we saw from the ship our two shipmates,
+with their guide, at half past four, depart on their journey to
+Concepçion, the Indians retiring to the hills on the approach of
+dusk. In the ship, six larboard after-main-deck guns had been thrown
+overboard to counteract an inclination which she had to fall over on
+her larboard broadside, the fore-topmast cut away, and the main-topmast
+struck, and the sails cut from the yards, and sent on deck ready to
+transport to the shore for tents.
+
+_May 21._--At daylight all hands were labouring hard in working the
+rafts between the shore and the ship. So powerfully had the surf acted
+on the hull of the ship during the night, that she was forced one half
+the distance that we had been, on the 20th, nearer the beach; and
+hence our future operations, though still harassing from the breaking
+in of the surf, were rendered free from danger. The weather proving
+fine, the sick were landed during the morning: we had three in cots,
+who were hoisted over the stern, and secured on a heap of bedding
+and casks sufficiently high to prevent more than a little spray from
+reaching them. They were carried up to the mound of sand on which the
+choice had fallen as the site of our camp. Numerous Indians came from
+the neighbouring hills to reconnoitre us, with the Cacique Cheuquante,
+with a considerable retinue of them and a Spanish interpreter, offering
+assistance against the southern Indians, of whom they evinced a great
+dread. Although the disinterestedness of these offers were prudently
+estimated, policy enjoined address and conciliation to cultivate their
+confidence and good opinion; and the captain, who had observed the
+increase of Indians, landed about 2 P.M. to organise the crew and
+construct a camp, and keeping in view these considerations, accepted
+the services of a few as look-out men.
+
+A large tent was erected on the mound of sand for the crew, composed
+of two topsails, a main course, and some studding sails, and near it
+a smaller one for the captain and officers. Into this latter tent
+were conveyed all the small arms which had been landed, cutlasses,
+pikes, and some ball cartridges, together with any other articles,
+which time and labour had allowed us to collect and bring up for the
+night. The spot on which we had fixed for our encampment was distant
+from the wreck about half a mile: the beach, which we learnt was
+about forty-five miles in extent, formed the line of sea boundary to
+the swampy, sandy marsh, in which was situated the mound which held
+our camp. This flat extended inland to a chain of irregular hills,
+distant four or five miles, on which were visible patches of trees and
+underwood. From these hills ran, in the direction of the sea, a small
+stream of good fresh water, which passed immediately at the base of the
+mound on which we were encamped. This stream proved to us a blessing of
+inestimable value, for our stock of water on board had become damaged
+soon after our misfortune, from the overflowing of the sea-water
+into the tanks; and to have sent to any distance for water, in our
+increasing apprehension of the conduct of the Indians, would have added
+much to our embarrassment. Before the night had closed in on the 21st,
+we had, by the construction of tents, secured a tolerable shelter for
+all who were on shore. An officer, with an appointed number of men,
+remained on board the wreck to attend to the working of the pumps, the
+tautening of the hawsers, and to watch the labouring of the hull, the
+surf continuing to roll in with its usual overpowering force, the noise
+of which on shore, during the night, was quite stunning. The weather
+throughout the day had been tolerably fine, the wind moderate from the
+N.W., and the night threatened to be cold and frosty. On the approach
+of night, the Indians, who had been numerous, moved off in various
+directions towards the hills: they usually came in the morning, in
+groups, on horseback and on foot, from six to eight in a party, making
+the shortest route to our camp which the standing pools of water, which
+were numerous, would allow.
+
+Before the crew were permitted to partake of any refreshment, the
+arms were distributed to be dried, cleaned, and prepared for use, and
+all were cautioned as to their conduct to be observed towards the
+Indians. The scene of our encampment on this night it is not in the
+power of any one to imagine, who was not witness to it. The exhaustion
+from incessant labour throughout the day was evident in all; not
+an article of clothing or bedding had reached the shore, without
+having experienced the drenching effects of the surf, and the heaps
+of innumerable articles that were scattered on all sides, formed a
+melancholy contrast to our customary order and regularity in our poor
+lost ship. Bounded in our rear by a marsh, which the rainy season, now
+at hand, would convert into a lake; the ocean in our front, rising
+occasionally within little more than a hundred yards of our camp, and
+from which the effects of an earthquake, (slight, indeed, compared to
+that which so recently occurred at Talcahuana, where the sea rose
+thirty feet,) might have swept us away; and the probability of a visit
+from the hostile southern Indians, who the preceding year had plundered
+of every article the unfortunate crews of four merchantmen, wrecked
+upon the coast, left us only the uncheering prospect of equivocal
+hospitality from our northern neighbours,--a barbarous race who murder
+the adults, and sell for slaves the infant children, of their captured
+enemies. Fires were made, and some salt pork cooked for our suppers;
+each also receiving an allowance of rum. A watch, consisting of an
+officer, a midshipman, and a proportion of the men under arms, was
+established for the night, and rest anxiously sought for on the sand
+under our canvass.
+
+_May 22._--Daylight saw all hands, who were not disabled from previous
+exhaustion, hard at work in tautening the hawsers from the wreck to
+the shore, working the pumps, and getting on shore our stream-anchor,
+which, after some difficulty, was buried in the sand, and backed with
+a gunslide: to it we bent the chain and hemp stream-cables, which were
+brought to the capstan on board; and, by keeping a strain on them, the
+hull continued, from the force of the sea, and daily becoming lighter,
+to near the shore. We now worked hard to secure whatever provisions we
+could get at, spars and sails to strengthen our tents, and arms and
+ammunition for our protection against molestation on the part of the
+Indians.
+
+One of our nine-pounder long guns was also got up and pointed over the
+stern of the ship, so as to cover our camp, as well as give protection
+to the ship. The weather to-day was cold and frosty, with fog: the surf
+appeared to be forming a ridge of sand outside the bows of the ship;
+the hull at times working a good deal, particularly in her lower frame,
+the stanchions and bulkheads in the lower deck and holds having given
+way, and the chain-lockers displaced. She was in sand to the depth of
+eight or nine feet. The fore-yard was got over the side, and drifted to
+the beach. Many stores and provisions were collected, and taken to the
+encampment, with several articles of comfort, such as tea, which had
+escaped damp, wine, and cooking utensils; likewise the coppers for the
+ship’s company’s cooking.
+
+A party had erected another large tent for the captain and officers,
+their previous tent being now appropriated to the warrant officers
+and stores. At one end of the officers’ tent was placed the dingy,
+now converted into a powder magazine. The state of our arms was
+particularly examined into in the course of the day, and the camp as
+much organised as circumstances had as yet permitted us. The Indians
+had been numerous throughout the day, but not unfriendly, and many
+exchanges had been made between them and the crew, of apples, fowls,
+and potatoes, for wet clothes, or any description of metal: still we
+were far from feeling easy about them, from their known savage and
+wild character. Several of the Cacique Cheuquante’s Indians arrived,
+with their long spears, and had collected close to us, as our accepted
+look-outs against their brethren the hostile Indians, who were in
+force beyond the neighbouring hills, but kept in check by an opposing
+party, under the influence of the government of Chili, in command
+of the Cacique Colissi. With Cheuquante’s Indians was the Spanish
+interpreter before mentioned,--Rafael Lobo, a half-bred Indian, who
+assumed an authority over them, and with whom we had afterwards much
+communication. A vast quantity of scattered articles was collected
+from the beach, and brought within the limits of our camp. An armed
+watch was at dusk placed round the tents, and twenty-five men, under
+the command of the second lieutenant, Mr. Collins, remained on board in
+charge of the wreck.
+
+_May 23._--began with fog, and moderate northerly wind. The operation
+of tautening the cables was attended to as the wreck continued to
+be forced farther on the beach. Several more of the main-deck guns
+having been thrown overboard, assisted this. To aid the landing heavy
+articles, the lower yards were secured with hanging lashings to the
+stern, and pointed towards the beach. On these were lashed cross
+spars; and eventually a rough platform was established, which proved
+of infinite utility in our operation of clearing the wreck. The
+chain-pumps were occasionally worked to get at the store-rooms and
+holds, which had become flooded as high as the situation of the hull in
+the sand allowed, the depth of water in the holds averaging from seven
+to nine feet. Cheuquante’s Indians had increased their number of spears
+to twenty-seven, and with them were a numerous body of straggling
+Indians, who had collected from all directions, in numbers exceeding
+our force. Some apprehension was felt by the crew lest they might
+become victims to treachery. This immediately reached the captain’s
+ear, who, without loss of time, summoned the men and officers in camp
+around him, explained to them the better motives of the Indians, yet
+pointing out the propriety of observing distance with them, and that
+his orders would exclude them from communication with our camp; that
+his determination was to assume the best possible state of defence,
+and to maintain our position, in the event of an attack, until
+information might arrive from the consul at Concepçion, to govern our
+movements; and that, as British seamen, he felt confident they would
+show, by obedience and good conduct, their title to that character.
+This short and well-timed address dissipated their misgivings, and
+forcibly exemplified the general confidence which the mild exercise of
+authority is calculated to inspire. The men were satisfied, returned
+cheerfully to their tents, and their hardships and privations in
+camp, although extended to a period of seven weeks, never afterwards
+excited a murmur. The constant and laborious operation of landing the
+stores and provisions, the men being constantly wet through, from
+the breaking-in of the surf, may, at least by the naval reader, be
+comprehended: our exertions, however, enabled us to rely on our own
+resources for subsistence as well as defence. No sooner had we begun to
+examine our situation with reference to strengthen it, than Rafael Lobo
+expressed great apprehensions and alarm that an attack from the hostile
+Indians, or, as he termed them, “Enemigos” Indians, would be made
+upon us, and urgently advised our removing two leagues distant to the
+northward; for, said he, if we remained in our present position, they
+would have an advantage, from our exposed situation in a flat plain,
+and, to use his own meaning, the mounted Indians would ride over us.
+Captain Seymour consented, therefore, to send two officers with him,
+for the purpose of examining the ground; but the disadvantage of being
+at such a distance from the wreck was greater than any slight security
+that would be afforded us by changing our present position. He was
+therefore told by the captain his determination to defend the ground he
+now occupied; and with that view he proceeded to strengthen it by every
+means in his power.
+
+[Illustration: _Plan of Molguilla Camp, showing the Position of the
+Crew under Arms._]
+
+An offer was made to Rafael Lobo to put up a small tent, at a little
+distance south of our camp, for shelter for himself and his armed party
+of Indians, which was accepted. It may not be here misplaced to give
+a slight sketch of the history and character of the savages amongst
+whom it had been our fate to be thrown. The population of the province
+of Arauco in Chili is by far the most warlike in the whole of South
+America: all the valour and experience of the Spanish arms, in the
+days of their greatest glory, failed in their obstinate and repeated
+endeavours to subdue the Indians of Arauco, who have maintained their
+independence to the present day, and are denominated by the Spaniards
+“The unconquerable Araucanos.” A beautiful epic poem in the Spanish
+language, written by Don Alonso de Ervilla y Zunija, published in
+1590, describes the battles in which he was actively engaged. His
+descriptions of the wonderful valour and perseverance of those valiant
+Indians would appear exaggerated, did not their protracted and heroic
+resistance against the best men of Spain, at a period when every
+Spanish soldier was a hero, fully justify the truth of the narration.
+The greatest part of the Araucanos are, to the present day, engaged in
+a war of extermination with the Chilino Spaniards.
+
+The Araucano Indian is strong-built and active, with long shaggy
+dark hair hanging all round his head, as low as his shoulders; and
+when attacking an enemy, it is allowed partially to cover his face:
+his person is on these occasions frequently smeared over with mare’s
+blood. His legs are bare to the knees; he wears a kind of short
+loose drawers, made of Indian manufacture, with a poncho of the same
+material; rides a horse of poor appearance, but great capacity, with
+large spurs of iron, if he can get them, secured to his bare heel
+with hide straps; his stirrups are only large enough to admit his
+great toe. Under his poncho, round his waist, is a large knife, often
+as broad as an English billhook; a set of bolas[1]; and attached
+to his saddle is his lasso. His spear is a long bamboo staff, with
+a sharp iron point on its end, which, from its length (twenty-five
+feet or more), is very flexible, and when in use is kept constantly
+moving, so that the eye of the adversary cannot discover the intended
+spot of thrust. The women are often mounted in a similar manner,
+with the addition of a sort of wrapper round the upper part of the
+legs. Their cunning is very great. They are very dirty; and they
+appear, in point of civilisation, a most degraded race of savages.
+Their principal food is potatoes, sometimes a little meat, frequently
+the flesh of mares; and they eat many of the numerous kinds of nuts
+and berries which abound on the hills in the interior of their
+country. Salt is an article much in request amongst them. It was not
+uncommon to see a group of them squatted round a grass net of boiled
+potatoes, with a lump of rock-salt, which they constantly passed from
+mouth to mouth, round their circle, each taking a hearty suck. The
+surf continued heavy, and, at intervals, affected the wreck a good
+deal. The evening closed in with foggy damp weather: the arms were
+examined, and the watches on board, as well as in the camp, mustered
+preparatory for the night.
+
+_Sunday, May 24._--The necessary operation of heaving in on our
+stern-fasts was early attended to. The hull had, during the night, been
+labouring heavily, and was a good deal displaced from her position of
+yesterday: the wind was northerly, and the rollers broke so heavily,
+that the surf passed over its usual mark, and rolled far up towards
+the mound of sand on which we were encamped; moving the boats, and
+several articles which were laying, as was supposed, on a spot free
+from the approach of the surf. This day had been set apart as a
+day of rest; and we were about to make arrangements for performing
+divine service, when a party of horsemen were seen approaching from
+the direction of Arauco. They proved to be twelve men belonging to
+the militia established there, under the charge of Don Bernardino
+Hermosillo, a captain in that corps, who brought a letter for Captain
+Seymour from Mr. Jagoe, one of the officers despatched to Concepçion,
+reporting their progress, and that every facility would be given in the
+further course of their destination. It appeared that our shipmates
+were received at Arauco with great kindness by the Chilian authorities,
+who immediately ordered to Molquillo (the place of wreck) the above
+party, with a view, as the Spanish despatch of Don José Bustermente to
+the minister of the interior afterwards expressed, “to prevent robbery
+and extortion, and to advise and aid in resisting any attack that the
+Indians might be induced to make from the attraction this misfortune
+might present to them for pillage.” To send a force capable of ensuring
+protection to us was not in their power. This party was accompanied
+by the Cacique Pinoleo, his wife and daughter, with an escort of
+several Indians, all mounted; he presented the captain with a small
+ox, supposing us to be straitened for provisions. We offered them a
+little rum and water, and biscuit; and, after a long interview, the
+cacique and party retired to the tent of Rafael Lobo, and eventually to
+the hills. Pinoleo is a fine powerful-looking man, but understood to
+be very absolute and passionate. The captain had, in thanking him for
+his present, regretted his having nothing to offer him in return for
+his kindness; which caused him to rise, and, with great vehemence of
+expression, in his Indian language, to declaim against the supposition
+that, in our condition he should seek for a return. Pinoleo is the
+brother of Colissi, the cacique, who, with the aid of 100 carbineers of
+Arauco, was fighting and keeping in check Cadin, the hostile cacique of
+Jucapel and Tirua. He was the most civilised-looking of the caciques
+which we had occasion to meet. He wore a cloth cap with a gold-lace
+band; had a very large set of bolas round his waist, under his poncho,
+with the usual knife. His wife (who, we were informed, was one of
+many) and daughter were much ornamented with glass bead necklaces, and
+small silver plates, bits of brass or other metal, strung round their
+heads and necks: they wore, over their feet and legs, boots made of
+the skins of a colt’s legs, the hair inside, the knee part forming the
+heel of the foot, and the rest so shaped as to prove a convenient part
+of dress. A small handkerchief bound round their heads, and a band of
+braided beads in the form of a crown, confined their hair. They managed
+their horses equally as well as the men, riding in the same manner. The
+captain, and one or two of the officers, found a few presents for the
+ladies, which caused much pleasure to their party. We shortly after
+heard that, in a fit of drunkenness, Pinoleo had killed this wife, by
+knocking her on the head with his bolas: this occurred at the hut of
+a poor Indian, who had taken pains to entertain Pinoleo and party, as
+liberally as his means would allow, at supper. On this Indian he called
+for an indemnification for the loss of his wife, and the payment of a
+sum of dollars, which had led to the misunderstanding with his wife;
+but, not having it in his power to satisfy the cacique, he was forced
+to fly from his lands, his property of cattle becoming the prey of
+Pinoleo. Such is the present state of justice between man and man in
+the province of Arauco.
+
+Our worthy shipmate, Mr. Sarjeant, the purser, with his intimate
+knowledge of the Spanish language, was the source of all our
+communication with the Chilinos, and, through an interpreter, with the
+Indians: his valuable assistance was of vital importance to all; but
+his patience was sadly tried, from the unceasing calls made on his
+attention as spokesman.
+
+A tent was erected outside our line of camp for our new force of
+Chilinos; who zealously commenced the important service of establishing
+a line of scouts, in the direction of the hostile Indians, amongst
+the hills to the southward. Don Bernardino liked not the vicinity
+of our Indian look-out, aware, as he stated he was to us, of their
+frequent acts of treachery. To his party we spared a daily proportion
+of our provisions, which, in addition to an occasional forage to the
+northward, which some of them made, fully satisfied their wants.
+Through Don Bernardino we were enabled to obtain, from some one of the
+caciques, a bullock or two, which were driven down to our camp for
+beef; and from the hills were brought, by the daily straggling Indians,
+a moderate number of fowls, with potatoes and apples, for which the
+officers and crew bartered whatever they had to spare that attracted
+the rapacity of the Indian. The weather, towards night, became thick,
+the surf sounding loud and heavily. Our usual precautions were taken in
+watching through the night.
+
+_May 25._--We were roused just before one this morning by Don
+Bernardino, who came to the camp with information, brought by a
+horseman just arrived, that the Indians had yesterday been fighting
+near us, and might shortly be expected; recommending us to be on our
+guard against their insidious mode of attack, particularly about
+daybreak, and, like them, “to sleep by day and watch by night.” The
+seamen and marines were instantly under arms. The captain made his
+disposition of our force, by putting the seamen in quarter watches,
+the marines forming a fifth body, each under an officer. Rockets and
+blue lights, and fire-balls, which we had made, were in readiness
+to throw amongst the horses. Fires were kept in, torches burnt, and
+all hands paraded the camp till daylight, when tea was made for the
+ship’s company, and an hour or two of rest permitted. The party on
+board, under the second lieutenant, were equally on the alert, firing
+an occasional great gun, double-shotted, to aid the demonstration
+of our watchfulness. The ship had been so uneasy during the night,
+that the best bower-anchor had been dropped, to steady her bow to the
+surf. Anxiety was expressed by the party of Chilinos for us to move
+from our present encampment to the entrance of a small river, twenty
+miles to the northward of us, as adding much to our safety from the
+Indians, from its defensible situation, and being the nearest spot
+from which any approach could be made from sea to afford us relief;
+the difficulties of a more distant land journey being impracticable
+under the circumstances in which we were placed, and the necessity of
+only moving with our arms, provisions, and several sick. Don Bernardino
+had, in the first moment of his arrival, urged our moving, pointing out
+the danger of remaining, not only on account of the hostile Indians,
+but the liability of the flat on which we were being overflowed by the
+sea, as well as flooded by the heavy rains which, at that season of
+the year, might be hourly expected to fall; also stating that, though
+they might possibly be able to collect horses and mules, to assist
+our movement, whilst the weather remained dry, yet that, as they must
+necessarily come from a great distance, and from the neighbourhood of
+Arauco, the first rains would drive them to their homes again, fearing
+the impassable state of the country. At night a strong armed watch was
+on the look-out in the camp, and scouts kept at the distance of a few
+miles, in the direction of the hostile Indians.
+
+Light winds from the southward, with occasional fog. The evident
+necessity of strengthening our position, as a precaution against the
+liability of an attack from the Indians, caused all hands, after
+attending to the cables attached to the wreck, to be employed in
+forming such a barricade around our tents as might prove at least a
+check to the approach of cavalry. The result of this day’s labour, to
+those who witnessed it, will long be with proud satisfaction called to
+mind, as a proof of what the stimulated energies of British seamen can
+accomplish: they forgot their former fatigue, and, “turning-to” with
+a good will, boats, cordage, casks, and every description of stores
+useful for defence, were carried on their shoulders, or laboriously
+dragged over the heavy sand; and the fortified state of our camp, by
+digging trenches, constructing barriers and platforms for our two
+boat-guns, which we had got out of the ship, and bringing aft the
+long-bow guns on board, so as to flank our encampment, reflected the
+greatest credit on every individual who shared in this day’s labour.
+Our works were afterwards improved; and, though the known bravery of
+the Indians is not to be despised, they would have bought a severe
+lesson by attacking us. Still, regret must have attended any sacrifice
+in such bootless warfare; and we have just reason to conclude that
+their knowledge of our prepared state constituted our security from
+molestation. The surprise of the numerous straggling Indians, who were
+lookers-on at our laborious efforts, was evidently very great, and, it
+is certain, excited a strong feeling of respect towards us.
+
+It has been already observed, that the seamen were divided into four
+quarter watches; three of them commanded by a lieutenant, and the
+master in charge of the fourth. A fair and equal division of the
+fire-arms was made: those who had no musket had a pistol, cutlas, or
+pike. Each quarter watch had their appointed station, to form in when
+called out under arms. The marines formed in the centre of the camp,
+and intended to act, as necessary, in support of the weakest point.
+
+It was understood that silence was strictly to be kept, and not a shot
+fired until orders were given from the captain. All were regularly
+mustered, under arms, every night before supper; the arms discharged
+and reloaded, and the necessary steps taken to ensure their readiness
+for use. The two boat cannonades were each in charge of a quarter
+watch. At night every body slept with their arms by their side.
+Besides the sentinels, who called out the half hours throughout the
+night, a watchword was established, and an officer and midshipman
+were constantly moving about the encampment and visiting the posts.
+Such were the precautions used in our endeavours to secure our camp.
+The Indians, who brought from the hills each his grass-net of apples,
+potatoes, or fowls, to exchange with us for whatever we had, were
+requested to carry on their marketing in a small mound of sand, about
+100 yards from us; and we put up a staff, with a cross, to indicate
+the spot, getting an interpreter to explain what we wished: for it
+was of infinite consequence to prevent an acquaintance with our camp.
+They smiled at our arrangement, but were not displeased, and for some
+time they adhered to our desire with tolerable regularity. The Indians
+had brought each day some supply of poultry, which the crew obtained
+from them, at first, at an easy rate of exchange, and they willingly
+received buttons or bits of metal in return: the eagerness, however,
+of the sailor to add the luxury of a fowl to his mess of salt meat
+caused the cunning Indian to demand articles of dress: an old shirt
+was what they coveted much; and a jacket was also among the articles
+eagerly sought for. On each of our batteries was fixed a flag-staff,
+to which a union-jack was secured, and kept constantly flying. A full
+supply of grape, canister, and round shot was piled on each platform,
+which was composed of cannonade slides sunk into the sand. These guns,
+as well as those on the stern of the wreck, were almost every evening
+discharged and reloaded, preparatory for the night. None could go in or
+out of the encampment without being seen by the sentinels; and at night
+the watchword was demanded of all who moved out of their tents. Don
+Bernardino kept us constantly on the alert with regard to the Indians.
+He had, with the consent of Captain Seymour, despatched an express to
+the governor of the frontier town of Arauco, begging him to use his
+authority in collecting seventy horses and thirty mules, to be driven
+down to the coast to assist in transporting our provisions and baggage
+to the Rio Leubu, that being the spot from whence we could alone hope
+to be relieved.
+
+_Tuesday, May 26._--Light north-westerly winds and clear weather.
+Observations were taken, by means of a false horizon, by the master and
+master-assistant, for a latitude and longitude of the encampment, which
+gave the latitude 37° 48′ 48″ s., and longitude 73° 34′ 30″ w. The
+wreck bore from the camp s.w. by w. We now felt a great satisfaction
+and security in our barricade. Our sick list numbered about ten, who
+were unfit for active work. Several of the ten were laid up from over
+work or rheumatic attacks, the result of their being constantly wet in
+labouring at the wreck.
+
+On board the Challenger, at the time of her disaster, was a Spaniard,
+who had been engaged in the affair of the Falkland Islands, and was
+one of the Gauchos who had been taken as concerned in the murders
+committed there in 1833. He had been released, and was a passenger
+from Rio de Janeiro, to be landed at Valparaiso; but he had frequently
+exhibited such symptoms of mental derangement, that it became necessary
+to secure him in his hammock. On the day the evening of which we were
+wrecked, he had been unusually unruly, and was therefore placed under
+restraint. In the moment of the greatest danger, on the striking of
+the ship amongst the breakers, one of the first who ran on deck was
+the Spaniard, with scarcely any covering on him. He must have broken
+away from the lashings which secured him, appeared perfectly sane, and
+prepared to assist in the duties of the ship; and, singular to relate,
+on no occasion afterwards, during the whole time of our stay on the
+shores of Chili, was there observed any return of wildness. He was very
+useful in the camp, from his skill in cutting out and applying the
+hides of the bullocks to the fabrication of moccassins.
+
+_Wednesday, May 27._--The wind northerly, with thick weather and fog.
+One watch was occupied at the wreck, getting out any undamaged articles
+of provisions, private property, or stores that could be got at. The
+quantity of water in the holds, however, prevented much being done.
+About mid-day, the Cacique Pinoleo, with his wife and daughter, and
+several followers, arrived at our camp. He was on his road to join his
+brother, the Cacique Colissi, who had sent for more assistance to make
+head against the hostile Indians, with whom he had been fighting. After
+collecting and mustering the Indians around our camp, and treating us
+with their war-whoop, he left us to join his brother, strengthening his
+force with the greater part of Rafael Lobo’s Indians. The daily routine
+of mustering under arms, with every precaution against a surprise
+during the night, was duly attended to. The night was damp and foggy.
+
+_Thursday, May 28._--The weather moderate, the wind northerly, with a
+damp fog. Except the necessary attention to the stream-cable fasts,
+and the working of the pumps, the crew were allowed a respite from
+their previous daily hard labours, the occupation of to-day being
+the arrangement of the interior of the tents, and the examination of
+their clothes and bedding, and likewise cleaning and sweeping inside
+the barricade, and making storage of the provisions. By the captain’s
+order a survey was taken by the second lieutenant, Mr. Collins, Mr.
+M’Donald, the master, and Mr. Barclay, the carpenter, to ascertain,
+if possible, the principal damage received in the hull of the wreck.
+Towards sunset it was observed that the stern-post was left dry in the
+drawback of the surf; and, from the forming of a sand-bank outside the
+ship, the iron stock of the best bower-anchor was at times visible
+about half the ship’s length ahead of her. The current through the surf
+to the southward along shore appeared unusually strong; the weather
+to seaward dark and gloomy, with the appearance of an approach of a
+strong northerly gale. At 5 A.M. mustered under arms, and supplied
+what ammunition was necessary; discharged the arms, and reloaded; and
+likewise on board the wreck. A messenger arrived from the governor of
+Arauco to Don Bernardino, acknowledging our request to have horses and
+mules collected for our removal to the banks of the Rio Leubu, and
+promising the exertion of all his authority to forward so important an
+object. The wind increased as the night advanced.
+
+_May 29._--The weather dry, but with strong breezes, and cloudy from
+the northward; an unusually heavy surf rolling in on the beach,
+breaking with great violence and height on the breakers to seaward: the
+ship very uneasy, so much so as to threaten a separation of the decks
+from the lower body of the ship; to relieve her the foremast was cut
+away, and driven up on the beach to the southward, and the larboard
+sheet-anchor let go, the mainmast and bowsprit being the only spars now
+standing. A second small anchor was got on shore to assist in steadying
+the wreck, with the fore-gaugers and chain-messenger bent to it and
+hove taut. As the duty permitted, the officers and men were allowed
+to stroll to some little distance from the camp; and, with one of the
+Chilinos as a guide and interpreter, a party was occasionally made, in
+accordance with inclination, as well as appetite, in search of game of
+any description that might assist in adding to and varying our dinner.
+Persuaded by Don Bernardino, who furnished horses, the captain, with
+Mr. Sarjeant and a guide, rode for an hour two or in the direction
+of the ground pointed out by Rafael Lobo, and as far as the Cacique
+Cheuquante’s residence, over the hills north of us, distant about two
+leagues. There they found one of Pinoleo’s wives and a daughter, and
+attendants. They passed on their road one of the few evidences of a
+burial-ground which was seen by us. It was a spot of ten or twelve
+yards square, securely fenced by trunks of large trees piled round, the
+ends being rudely morticed into each other. The beauty and luxuriance
+of the country on the hills was a great contrast to the barren sandy
+flat on which we were situated. The variety and size of the evergreens
+were most striking. Many trees which bore fruit were also pointed
+out as much esteemed and eaten by the Indians: some cranberries were
+also gathered. Abundance of partridges were seen. At 4 P.M. Mr. Lane,
+the assistant-surgeon, arrived from Concepçion, bringing the welcome
+intelligence that his companion, Mr. Jagoe, with the consul, Mr. Rouse,
+were on their road to us, and hoped to reach our camp on the next day.
+Mr. Rouse was bringing with him several mules laden with articles
+which he considered we might have need of, as spirits and bread; not
+knowing of our success in saving out of the ship sufficient provisions
+for the present support of all. These mules delayed his movements; he,
+therefore, very properly, had pushed Mr. Lane on with a safe guide to
+convey to the captain, with as little delay as possible, a reply to his
+letter, naturally supposing the anxious suspense we were under to hear
+from him. The consul was also bringing some presents, to conciliate
+the good-will of the caciques on the road and around our encampment.
+Towards sunset our camp was put in movement by the appearance,
+through the distant haze to the southward, of an approach of several
+groups of horsemen, and a mounted scout was sent by Don Bernardino to
+reconnoitre. They turned out to be some of Cheuquante’s Indians, who
+were returning from the late battles fought by Colissi against the
+hostile Indians. Towards night it blew a heavy gale: its effect on the
+sand, which we were on, was most inconvenient and annoying, finding its
+way into every thing inside the tents.
+
+_Saturday, May 30._--Strong gales from the northward, with heavy rains,
+which penetrated the tents a good deal, causing many attempts on the
+part of the sleepers, during the night, to discover the driest spot
+inside to lie down on. Daylight saw a crowded group huddled together
+in the centre of the tent, as being the most free from rain. It was
+necessary to turn all hands on the pumps to clear the holds of as much
+water as possible, in order to endeavour to get at the remainder of the
+provisions, which might have escaped injury. The heavy surf which broke
+this day on the ship made her very uneasy. Amongst the articles secured
+to-day, out of the after-hold, were a quantity of salt provisions
+and other articles, many of which were too much damaged for use, the
+whole of the lower frame of the ship having been a long time under
+the influence of sea-water. The provisions and spirits were carefully
+transported to the camp; the latter placed in the officers’ tent; the
+former ranged outside of it, in a trench, and covered with sand, thus
+securing and steadying the tent.
+
+At 12 30′ P.M. we experienced a severe shock of an earthquake, causing
+a very strong vibration to every article in our tents, and instantly
+arousing several who were asleep, resting from fatigue. An account
+of the whole of the provisions saved was carefully taken, and such
+daily issues made to the crew, under the management of Mr. Sarjeant,
+the purser, as the quantity of the various species would admit of.
+The precaution of securing a large proportion of our bread, at the
+moment of our disaster, and putting it into casks, proved of the
+greatest consequence to us; for, although it ran short, the third, and
+afterwards, as long as it lasted, a fourth, of the established daily
+allowance was of infinite service to us. The powder cases from the
+magazines, many of which were got out, were discovered not in every
+instance to have resisted the wet; yet we fortunately had an ample
+supply for all our necessities. The weather broke a little towards the
+evening, but with frequent squalls, attended by heavy rain.
+
+_Sunday, May 31._--The wind still northerly and fresh, with heavy
+rain, rendering our camp and tents very uncomfortable. The marsh and
+flat round us was much flooded, and gave us some idea of what we might
+expect, should the winter rains commence before we were enabled to quit
+our present spot, which had, in several points of view, the appearance
+of an island. The little stream of water which skirted the base of our
+camp rose amongst the hills inland, in which direction it partook of
+the character of a small river; and a few small fish were occasionally
+to be seen jumping in its deepest parts. Its increase after rain was
+considerable; resuming its ordinary size and force on the return of
+dry weather. At the camp, in the absence of washing apparatus, it
+became the scene of each morning’s ablution; and was on every account
+of inestimable value to us, for it was of excellent quality. A walk
+on the banks of the little stream could be extended to three or four
+miles, and yet continuing in sight of our camp, from the flatness of
+the ground. Duck and widgeon constantly sprang up from under the banks,
+which were towards the hills, covered with myrtles, rushes, and a
+gigantic weed peculiar to the marshes of that part of Chili.
+
+On the north side of the stream the officers had, as duty permitted
+them, gone out with their guns, and seldom returned without a supply of
+partridges and wild ducks, excellent in flavour, and most acceptable
+to our numerous mess, which included the officers of all grades, our
+excellent shipmate, Mr. Sarjeant, being the caterer, and fulfilling,
+under circumstances, so laborious and troublesome this duty, in a
+manner deserving the hearty thanks of his messmates. Anxious on every
+account to advance the necessary and evident object of moving to the
+banks of the Rio Leubu, and desirous of ascertaining the nature of that
+spot by an eyewitness of our own, in order that, on the arrival of the
+consul, no time might be lost in deciding on our future operation as
+concerned the Leubu, the captain at 10 A.M. despatched two officers,
+with a guide from the Chilino party, to examine the entrance of that
+river, with reference to forming an encampment there, and to the
+possibility of being able to embark from it. Every hour now sensibly
+proved to us the impossibility of remaining on our present ground. We
+had been dependent on the wreck for fire-wood, the quantity of which
+we had burnt was very great. Our spars, from their usefulness as
+tent-poles and as part of the barricades, we could not suffer to be cut
+up; parties, therefore, daily foraged the ship and beach for whatever
+was to be got at to supply the wants of the cooks: our distance from
+the wood on the hills was too great to send there, besides the risk of
+separating our force. The surf continued heavy, and the appearance of
+the weather to seaward squally and unsettled; the ship was working very
+much in her top sides, and sinking deep forward.
+
+A pest, which eventually became very destructive and annoying to us,
+had now begun to trouble us, in the shape of a multitude of a large
+kind of mouse: our provisions, stores, clothes, tents, all suffered
+from their constant attacks, and the freedom with which they visited
+the sleepers almost exceeded belief.
+
+At 5 30′ P.M. the British consul, Henry William Rouse, Esq. from
+Concepçion, arrived at our barricade, accompanied by Colonel Don
+G. J. Valenzuela, the governor and military commandant of Arauco,
+with Mr. Jagoe. They had had a severe journey, from the effects of
+the heavy rain that had fallen in a country where the existence of
+a road is unknown. Their arrival was hailed with joy as the dawn of
+our deliverance, and gave us fresh stimulus to exertion. They were
+fatigued, and gladly partook of what we had to offer them, which
+included some good wine we had got out of the wreck; and sought some
+early rest, deciding on the morrow to concert measures for our moving
+towards the Rio Leubu. The governor expressed himself highly pleased
+at the manner in which we had barricaded ourselves. We were indebted,
+for the governor of Arauco’s presence, to the high esteem in which Mr.
+Rouse is held, amongst the authorities, throughout the country which
+surrounds Concepçion, where he is much beloved. On Mr. Rouse’s arrival
+at Arauco, the governor, to whom he is known, insisted on accompanying
+him to Molquilla, urging the benefit which his authority and presence
+might be of in assisting him on a journey, if not of danger, at least
+of great discomfort, and having interviews with the different caciques
+who were considered friendly to the Chilian government. The reader may
+possibly feel an interest in knowing what occurred during the journey
+performed by our two shipmates to Concepçion, and on their return. Mr.
+Jagoe’s account of it is nearly as follows:--
+
+“The captain had put me in charge of a letter to the British consul at
+Concepçion, with directions to take it, or find means of transmitting
+it: he also spoke to Mr. Lane on the same subject. We therefore
+consulted together as to the best manner of executing this mission, on
+which so much depended.
+
+“We attempted to communicate with the Indians (who by this time were
+collecting on the beach, and who evidently seemed inclined to be
+friendly, and disposed to render assistance to the party on shore),
+but to no purpose, as we could not make ourselves understood. Happily
+for us, at this moment a Chilino rode up: he possessed a pleasing
+countenance, and to him we communicated our wish to be guided to
+Concepçion, and inquired the distance, which, to our great surprise,
+we found to be 180 miles. I introduced Mr. Sarjeant (who understands
+the Spanish language thoroughly) to this Chilino, who, after a
+few preliminary remarks, agreed to conduct us to Concepçion for a
+stipulated sum, furnishing horses and all necessaries on the road:
+but as this Chilino’s horses were at his petraro, eight leagues from
+the beach, he stood our guarantee for eight dollars with the cacique
+Cheuquante, for the hire of two horses to take us there; and about
+half-past 4 three horses arrived, equipped in perfect Indian style,
+when, after some slight refreshment of biscuit and rum, we took leave
+of our fellow-sufferers. We rode along the beach about a league, then
+turned off for the interior, pursuing our way to the foot of some low
+hills, until we came to the cacique Cheuquante’s dwelling, at about
+6 o’clock, at which time it was nearly dark. There we met Don Rafael
+Lobo, an Indian apparently of Spanish blood from his countenance. He
+speaks the Spanish language well, and acts as interpreter, and holds
+the commission of lieutenant of the friendly Indians of the district
+of Tucapel, and appears to have much influence over them. He urged us
+much to remain the night. We were much questioned whether we belonged
+to a merchant ship; if the cargo was saved; of what it consisted; and
+when we were going to land it: to which Mr. Lane replied, that she was
+a vessel of war, laden with “powder and ball;” which, on communicating
+to the group of Indians surrounding us, they held up their hands,
+howled, and scratched their savage heads, expressive either of
+astonishment or disappointment. After exchanging our horses, which was
+the object of our coming here, we continued our way by the side of a
+thickly-wooded mountain, until the road, if such it maybe called, the
+horses being knee-deep in water, turned off through this forest. We
+had not proceeded more than a hundred yards, when the guide called
+out, ‘Yo he perdido el camino,’ (I have lost the road.) It was at this
+time quite dark. Such were our prospects, on a cold freezing night,
+without a dry thread, and Mr. Lane without shoes. The guide rode about
+two hours, endeavouring to regain the road, or find an opening through
+almost impenetrable wood, whilst we remained on one spot, occasionally
+striking sparks with a flint and steel to show our position. At last,
+fatigued and weary with disappointment, he returned, and pronounced
+sorrowfully that he had quite lost the road, and we must make up our
+mind to wait for daylight. Not knowing more of our guide than might
+be judged of by inexperienced physiognomists, we thought it prudent,
+in spite of his pleasing countenance, to retire to some distance from
+him: here we laid down, with our heads on each other’s knees, to keep
+them out of the wet, giving the signal to turn when either became so
+insufferably cold or cramped as to require relief. During the night
+we were alarmed by the frightful neighing of our horses, which our
+guide informed us was occasioned by the approach of the pinna, a small
+lion of South America, which is reported to be an enemy to horses, but
+not to man. In the confusion our guide’s horse got away, and he was
+a considerable time before he found it; and we heard no more of the
+intruders. To prevent any further accident, we secured the long bridles
+of our horses to our arms, in such a manner as made it impossible they
+could escape without our knowledge, should we be so fortunate as to
+sleep. Shortly after this we were again alarmed by the barking of
+dogs, and trampling of horses approaching, as we supposed, in the road
+we had lost.
+
+“We distinctly heard the voices of Indians, and, if we had known
+their language, might have been in possession of their intentions:
+we had no doubt but that they were the party we left at the raucho,
+who endeavoured to prevail on us to stop the night, and that they
+were in search of us. When they were so near as to hear if we uttered
+a word, our guide, in a low tone, said ‘Hush!’ and when the horses
+made a rustling noise amongst the bushes, he evaded suspicion by
+grunting like a pig. We asked no questions, but remained in a state of
+indescribable anxiety till daylight, the 21st, when, wet, cold, hungry,
+and miserable, we rubbed ourselves to circulate the blood and reanimate
+our almost frozen limbs. Some time was lost in searching for Mr. Lane’s
+coat, which had been lost when Camilo’s horse took fright, as we
+could make no use of it as a covering or protection from the weather,
+it having been washed on shore, and consequently thoroughly wet. On
+finding the coat, we saddled our horses, mounted, and discovered the
+road to be only ten yards from us, and that we had not more than a
+hundred yards of the forest to pass through. We continued our journey
+at seldom less speed than a canter; these horses having a peculiar sort
+of pace, which they can maintain for a length of time almost incredible
+to an English traveller. We came to a branch of the river Leubu, about
+twenty or thirty miles inland: with little difficulty we crossed it on
+horseback; and our guide’s horse being fagged, he took mine, fixed his
+lasso to the saddle, rode after a few horses which were grazing near
+us, and in a few minutes entrapped one of the poor animals in that
+never-failing lasso: this was accomplished in less than ten minutes,
+and we continued our way across the country till we came to the Rio
+Leubu. (We had gone to some distance out of our way for the purpose
+of getting this horse.) Here we dismounted, unsaddled our horses, and
+hailed an Indian woman on the other side of the river, distant about
+fifty yards, to know if she had any means of conveying us over. She
+pointed to something in the shape of a canoe, lying on the bank of
+the river, filled with mud and water, which, with the assistance of
+another woman, she managed to turn bottom up, when it proved to be
+nothing more than a trough, in which they kept their apples for making
+chiahi, or cider (a very common beverage amongst them): after partially
+cleaning it, stopping the holes with mud, they floated it, and one of
+the women embarked, and, with a long pole, shoved it up the river on
+one side; and when the river turned, she allowed the current to sweep
+it across, which nothing but her local knowledge of its windings could
+have enabled her to accomplish. I was the first nominated by our guide
+to trust to this conveyance, and accordingly slid down the bank (for
+it was impossible to walk), and introduced myself to the goddess of
+the deep, by the friendly Indian expression of ‘Mai mai,’ which serves
+for ‘how do you do?’ ‘good bye,’ ‘very good,’ and is the beginning of
+every friendly conversation. I embarked, after relieving myself of all
+incumbrances, such as jacket, waistcoat, &c. thus preparing myself to
+swim, if necessary; and, standing upright, balanced myself, much to
+the satisfaction of my _waterwoman_. Mr. Lane and Camilo (our guide)
+came over in the same way, each bringing his saddle gear. Previous to
+embarkation our guide drove the horses into the river, over which
+they swam without difficulty; and, on landing, the lasso was thrown
+over their necks, which immediately stopped them. Here we went into
+a raucho, where our waterwoman assumed the character of hostess, and
+appeared to keep an Indian eating-house, from the quantity of dried
+beef hanging about the raucho, and some boiling in an earthenware pot
+on the fire, which she served up in a wooden bowl, when it proved to
+be cascuella, made from cherqui and ahi (capsicums) boiled together.
+As a substitute for spoons we used muscle-shells, and for bread we had
+heated corn, beaten between stones, and moistened with water, something
+about the consistency of birdlime. Our beverage was a mixture of water
+and roasted barley, pounded; which, being put into a bullock’s horn
+and violently stirred, produces an effervescence, in which state it is
+drank. I need not say, however foreign as this was to our usual fare,
+we made a hearty meal, not having eaten any thing substantial since
+the night of the wreck. This repast occupied us about ten minutes;
+after which we lighted our pajitas, and resumed our journey towards
+the patraco of our guide, called Eurihuillin, from the river of that
+name, which runs through it. Here we dismounted, and our guide, with
+the assistance of his major-domo, went out and caught fresh horses,
+while we sat by the fire drying our clothes, amused by the interesting
+interrogations of two old dames, the major-domo’s wife and wife’s
+sister, who were feeding us with roasted apples and potatoes.
+
+Our guide came in with his trousers very much torn; and knowing that I
+had a needle and some thread about me, applied to have them repaired.
+This I was most ready to do, in return for the kind treatment we had
+received, and the essential services he had rendered us. He then
+killed a sheep, which was cut in halves, and put under our saddles,
+as provisions for the journey. About one we again mounted, leaving
+directions for the horses to be returned to the Indian from whom we
+had borrowed them, took leave of our kind hostesses, and galloped
+off on our fresh steeds, much invigorated; but before night things
+we realtered--we were for galloping, and they for walking. About two
+leagues from our guide’s residence, we crossed the river Euriheullin,
+which forms the boundary of this part of his portraco, which is
+about twelve miles in length, and as many in breadth, and consists
+principally of coarse grazing ground in its primitive state, with
+plenty of wood. For this estate he pays sixteen dollars a year to the
+widow of a cacique. His stock consists of about 100 bullocks, and as
+many sheep; the former valued at sixteen dollars, and the latter at six
+reals each. A man’s rank or station in life is here generally estimated
+by the number of cattle he possesses, together with the quality of the
+poncho or mantle he rides in, without reference to the appearance of
+any other part of his dress: from this we judged our guide to be above
+mediocrity. During this day we rode from eighty to ninety miles, over a
+rich and beautiful country, where Nature has bestowed her favours with
+a liberal hand on an indolent and savage race, who are strangers to
+every kind of agriculture beyond the cultivation of a few potatoes, for
+which they prepare a fresh spot of ground every year. This will account
+for the fine specimens we have met with in this country.
+
+About 4 o’clock this afternoon, I lost my sword, from my carelessness
+in forgetting to buckle my belt, after looking at my watch on
+horseback. We were an hour looking for it; and this delay occasioned
+our being benighted on a thickly wooded mountain, where we encountered
+many difficulties from the intricacies of the passes, and the quantity
+of water we had to wade through; but as our guide knew this part of the
+road much better than that of the preceding day, we surmounted them
+all, and reached the Indian pueblo of Albarada at 9 o’clock. Here we
+went into a large rancho, crowded with dirty figures of both sexes,
+and all sizes; besides a number of dogs, which were kicked out, and a
+place near the fire cleared for us. We sat down cross-legged, enjoying
+tobacco and chichi, whilst supper was preparing, which was soon done,
+as they appear to have the pot always boiling, and also plenty of
+potatoes at hand, which they prepare in the most dexterous manner, with
+the edge of a muscle shell. Meanwhile the grey-headed dirty señora
+of the family was engaged, with the guide, in cutting up one of the
+halves of the sheep, and putting it into the boiler with potatoes and
+ahi. In the course of an hour it was served up in the usual way; and,
+after inviting the señor and señora of the party, we brandished our
+muscle shells in style, having become adepts in an art in which we
+were novices but yesterday. We made a hearty meal, and having drunk a
+sufficient quantity of chichi, we prepared our comfortless beds, having
+only our saddle gear on which to rest our weary limbs. These we placed
+close by the fire, and lay down to rest, surrounded by dogs and dirty
+children: however, after our excessive fatigue, we slept tolerably well.
+
+At daylight, the 22d, we arose, and got rid of some of those
+intolerable pests, pulgas or fleas (with which we were covered), by
+taking off and shaking our jackets: we then each took a roasted potato,
+saddled our horses, and mounted. The ground was frozen very hard, and
+the air exceedingly cold. We had not gone far when my horse showed
+symptoms of weakness, or disinclination to proceed, which obliged us
+to go a considerable distance out of the way, to a cacique known to
+our guide, to procure another. We had not only to go out of our way,
+but down a very steep mountain, the horses sliding the greatest part
+of the way on their haunches, when we came to a beautiful valley,
+rendered still more lovely by the splendid beams of the newly risen
+sun. Here, by the side of the river, were scattered a few huts or
+ranchos, out of one of which came the cacique, who hailed us with that
+friendly phrase, “Mai, mai,” which we obsequiously returned. Our guide
+told him the nature of our expedition, and the cause of our visit,
+when he immediately introduced us to the inmates of his dwelling (all
+women, the caciques being allowed a plurality of wives). He despatched
+his peons or servants for a horse, while we sat by the fire smoking
+pajitas, or eating roasted potatoes, occasionally making ourselves
+understood by the women, to whom we offered some snuff, which, from
+having been wet, was become caked: this they readily accepted, and
+were about to put it into “_the general receptacle_,” when I stopped
+them, and made them understand that it was not to be eaten, by taking
+a pinch myself. They followed my example, but in a most strange
+manner, by forcing it up their nostrils, and laughing hideously at
+the ridiculous use thus made of their “smelling _apparatus_.” Being
+gratified with the pleasing excitement this pungent powder produced,
+they begged me to put some in a paper for them: this I was most happy
+to do, as it was the first opportunity we had (even in this small way)
+of showing our gratitude for the many and great kindnesses we had
+received. My horse being brought and saddled, we mounted, leaving
+directions for the disposal of the fagged horse. We then purchased
+a goose, which we gave in charge to the guide, lighted our pajitas,
+and took leave. We ascended this steep mountain in a manner more like
+going up stairs than any thing else I can compare it to, the heavy
+rains having given it the appearance of steps; the only support to the
+horses’ feet being the roots of trees, which intersected the path, and
+made a tolerably firm footing: we laid down on our horses’ necks to
+escape being dragged off by the Arcania shrubs, which formed a canopy
+over our heads. These are chiefly evergreens, some having beautiful
+flowers. We particularly noticed a large crimson bell-shaped flower,
+growing as a parasitical shrub, which covered the tops of the tallest
+trees, and striking the eye of the inexperienced traveller with its
+incomparable beauty. About eleven we arrived at Arauco, the frontier
+town of Chili, which is situated twenty leagues south of Concepçion,
+on the extremity of an extensive marsh, about six leagues in length,
+bounded on one side by the Pacific Ocean, and on the other by hills,
+backed by the Cordilleras. This town (which formerly was nothing
+more than an Indian pueblo, till the Chilinos, by incessant warfare
+and stratagem, subdued the Indians, and advanced thus far into their
+territory,) is garrisoned by a few Chilino troops, under the command of
+Lieutenant-Colonel Señor Don Geronimo José Valenzuela, who was at this
+time at Concepçion. As soon as we entered the town, the knowledge of
+our arrival having reached the second in command, Major Don José Sylva,
+he ran to us, and embraced us as officers in distress, and took us to
+his quarters, and introduced us to five or six officers, to whom, with
+himself, we shall ever be indebted for the most Castilian-like kindness
+and hospitality, which, if I were not an Englishman, I ought to say
+could not be surpassed. With these gentlemen we dined: they informed
+us that they would immediately despatch the brother of our guide,
+Don Bernardino Hermosillo, a captain in their militia cavalry, with
+a party of twelve men, to guard the wreck at Molquilla; at the same
+time telling us that their reason for sending so small a number was,
+because the Indians, so far south as the place where the ship had been
+wrecked, had acknowledged the government of Chili, and were at present
+assisting them, or rather themselves, by carrying on an interminable
+and murderous warfare with the tribes who were disaffected towards
+the government: the small force they were about to send was merely
+to act as scouts, to make known the position of the hostile, and to
+prevent treachery on the part of the friendly tribes, the place of
+the shipwreck being on the extreme verge where they acknowledged the
+government of Chili, and where their desperate battles are fought.
+We took this opportunity of informing Captain Seymour how far we had
+advanced on our journey; and Major Don José Sylva availed himself of
+our going to Concepçion for communicating to their government what he
+had done for the protection of the wreck.
+
+At 2 P.M. we bade a reluctant adieu to these hospitable fellows,
+deeply impressed with a sense of their kindness and our obligation.
+We rode along the marsh, observing here and there a rancho, with a
+spot of cultivated ground, till we arrived at a cluster of ranchos
+(scarcely deserving the name of a pueblo) about three miles from
+Lianco, called Caremfranque, after the river which runs near it.
+Here we were introduced to the family of our guide, who all ran and
+embraced their parent with affection, and heard from him all the
+particulars connected with us. Fresh horses were brought by one of the
+peons, whilst our guide changed his dress and put on a better poncho.
+It has already been observed, that this part of the habiliment tends
+to point out the station of life of him who wears it: it is due to
+our guide to make known that his was a _very good_ one, confirming
+his respectability and the good character given of his honesty by
+the officers at Arauco: we can only add that, with the essential
+service of guiding us to the consul (which we trust will be the
+foundation of relief to the shipwrecked crew), he has shown us the most
+christian-like kindness and attention, entitling him to the friendly
+appellation of “old Camilo,” instead of “our guide.” Taking leave of
+his kind family, we crossed the river Cacampuqune and came to a few
+scattered ranchos, named, after an old Spanish fort in its vicinity,
+“Fuerte viejo Colerico.” Here we were introduced to a Chilian señorita,
+a pretty brunette, gaudily dressed, and informed by “old Camilo” that
+we should stop at her house for the night, and, by starting the next
+morning early, should most probably reach Concepçion in good time,
+as we were only ten leagues from it. Gratified by this pleasing
+information, we dismounted, and after begging pardon for our dirty
+appearance, supper was ordered by “old Camilo:” it was soon prepared,
+and served up in the Chilian style by our industrious hostess, who, of
+course, supped with us. During conversation, she told us that there
+were some Englishmen in the village, and sent for them: they soon made
+their appearance, and in the course of conversation we discovered them
+to be North Americans. They made us a present of a dirty pipe and a
+small quantity of tobacco, which they called real Virginia: this was no
+treat, as we preferred the pajitas made with mild tobacco, wrapped in
+the Indian corn-leaf, and presented by our charming hostess, who was an
+adept in making them. After enjoying our aquaediente and pajitas, we
+retired to bed and slept soundly; and arose much refreshed at daylight
+on the 23d. We were delayed until seven o’clock for the horses; and
+if the nature of our mission had not been so important, we might have
+said the loss of time was not to be regretted, as our kind hostess was
+busily engaged in supplying us with maté. At 7 we took leave, promising
+to call on our way back. We hurried over a high hill or mountain
+called the “Luro di Villagu,” and by the Indians “Muguana”--(this
+being the place where they defeated the Spaniards and gained their
+independence)--then over a plain of six leagues and upwards in length,
+with here and there a cultivated spot, and many lakes covered with
+water-fowl. We arrived at the pueblo of San Pedro, on the southern side
+of the Bio-bio, immediately opposite Concepçion.
+
+Here “old Camilo’s” attention was called to the means of conveying us
+across the river, while we stopped at the house of an old dame to whom
+he introduced us: she kindly brought us water, and we washed, leaving
+our linen to undergo the same process, as we were covered with fleas.
+Camilo returned, and told us the launch would not be ready for some
+hours, and recommended our taking breakfast, which we were too happy to
+agree to: we sat down and made a hearty meal.
+
+About 2 o’clock we embarked in a flat-bottomed oblong launch, with
+nearly a dozen passengers, two bullocks, four horses, six pigs, and
+several sacks of wheat. This conveyance was kept under command, against
+a strong current, by an immense oar which answered the purpose of
+a rudder. A man was stationed at each end of the launch with a long
+pole, which, on first starting, was made use of a little, but when in
+deep water she was merely kept end on to the current by means of the
+rudder, until we approached the shallow water on the northern side,
+which covers an extensive flat of sand. On grounding, the horses,
+bullocks, and pigs disembarked, and the launch being again afloat,
+was, by the assistance of the poles, shoved some distance over the
+flat, but still a considerable way from the beach. We disembarked, by
+mounting our horses from the launch, and entered the city of Concepçion
+(situated on the Bio-bio), which we found in a state of complete ruin,
+not a single building standing, and the inhabitants living in tents
+or wooden houses, which some of the more opulent had been able to
+erect, as temporary residences. We learned that it had been destroyed
+by an earthquake, on the 20th of February last: the fatal shock which
+produced this devastation was felt at mid-day, without giving the
+slightest warning, when every house and public building fell; and it
+appears miraculous that only a hundred lives were lost. The port of
+Talcahuana felt the shock with equal severity. The sea is reported
+to have risen upwards of fifty feet immediately after the earthquake,
+breaking up on the ruins, inundating the flat on which the town was
+situated, and sweeping every thing before it, barely giving the
+inhabitants time to effect their escape to the hills.
+
+About half-past 3 P.M., in one of these temporary wooden houses, we
+found H. W. Rouse, Esq., His Majesty’s Consul; and I need not say
+how happy we were to introduce ourselves to him, and deliver the
+Captain’s letter. From our shabby dress and dirty appearance, he for
+a moment eyed us with suspicion; but having opened the letter, his
+countenance assumed an expression of benevolence and pity. He shook
+hands with us, called for wine and water; and we immediately saw in
+him all those characteristics which endear us to one another. He then
+left us to consult the Intendenté, and deliver the letter we brought
+from the officers at Arauco: he did not return till 6, when we dined;
+and the circumstances attending the wreck formed the subject of our
+conversation, as Captain Seymour’s letter put him only in possession
+of the bare fact. At 11 we each took a tepid bath, and “turned in” to
+comfortable beds, the Consul having previously left us to pay his last
+visit to a dying native, and did not return till 4 in the morning, when
+he awoke me, and related a few particulars connected with his visit,
+and the customs of the people in such a case. This story was not at all
+calculated to strengthen the nerves of a person whose whole system had
+recently been severely shaken, nor calculated to prepare him for the
+shock of an earthquake which at this moment threatened destruction.
+This shock roused me; under the influence of great alarm, I jumped out
+of bed, and was about to escape from the house, when the Consul called
+out, “It’s over!” and I returned to my bed, but too much frightened
+to expect more sleep. The Consul told us they had been visited with
+shocks, more or less severe, ever since the great earthquake, which
+amongst the natives appears to mark an epoch, as in conversation they
+date every thing so many days before or after “the earthquake.” The
+24th and 25th were employed in busily writing with the Consul, who
+determined on accompanying us to the wreck; and requested our whole
+assistance in preparing despatches for the Consul-general at Santiago,
+and other persons likely to be the means of affording relief to the
+unfortunate crew. I need not say that our undivided attention to
+this and other services was commanded by this gentleman, in order to
+expedite our return to the wreck, which was his most anxious desire,
+his whole head and soul being in the hope of relieving or rendering
+assistance to his distressed countrymen, fully aware that even if they
+had all succeeded in reaching the shore in safety, there was great
+danger to be apprehended of an attack by the Indians, should they come
+upon them by surprise, or if they had not been able to save the means
+of defence against that vindictive race of savages, who on former
+disasters had plundered the unfortunate crews of four vessels wrecked
+upon their coast, and who were more particularly to be feared at this
+season of the year, as that intoxicating drink chichi is plentiful; and
+when excited by this beverage they make desperate attacks on horseback,
+armed with spears of bamboo from twenty to thirty feet in length, and
+are not an enemy to be trifled with.
+
+_May 26._--The despatches, having been completed at a late hour last
+night, were sent off this morning at 4 o’clock by an extraordinary
+courier, who was to be rewarded for his services according to his
+expedition: if he reached Santiago in seven days, he was to have
+forty-five dollars, but if in less time, five dollars more for every
+day less than seven, and decreased in the same proportion for every
+day more than seven. We were, until five in the afternoon, engaged
+in preparing for our journey to the wreck, purchasing presents to
+conciliate the Indians, indigo and other articles to traffic with them,
+and hiring mules, horses, and servants, to take charge of and guard the
+numerous things the Consul thought might be of service to the crew,
+whom he supposed might be destitute. We left Concepçion at half-past
+five, and rode to the bank of the river, intending to cross and sleep
+at San Pedro that night; but to our disappointment the launch had gone
+over, and we were obliged to return to the Consul’s house, where we
+dined and retired early, purposing to start at daybreak next morning.
+
+_Wednesday, 27._--Arose, took an early breakfast, and crossed the
+river. We were delayed at San Pedro till 2 P.M. in arranging loads for
+the mules, hiring horses, &c.; at sunset had only reached the extreme
+end of the plain before described.
+
+We stopped at the house of a gentleman well known to the Consul, but
+who at this time was at Santiago. His major-domo, however, offered
+the use of the house to the Consul, which he declined accepting, or
+putting him to any trouble more than to prepare a supper, and allow
+us to arrange our beds inside the corridor. We made a hearty supper;
+Camilo messing with us, and treated as a valuable friend by the
+Consul, who placed every confidence in his honesty, and, from his
+better knowledge of the country people and Indians, intrusted to him
+the entire arrangement of the journey. After supper, in the course of
+conversation, it was agreed that Mr. Lane and Camilo should precede
+us with letters to Captain Seymour and the commandant of Arauco,
+acquainting them with our proceedings. The letters were written, and we
+retired to rest.
+
+At daylight, on the 28th, Mr. Lane and Camilo set out, the former to
+be guided by Camilo’s son, Antonio. The Consul and myself proceeded
+at 9 on our journey, but found some difficulty in getting the mules
+on, the rains having rendered the roads almost impassable, the mules
+constantly falling, and requiring to be relieved of their burdens. Came
+to Colcura; and, in passing through Fuerte Viejo, I waved my hand to
+the pretty brunette; and, about 9, after a long and tedious journey,
+came to the Rio Carampanque, which we crossed about 10 o’clock; arrived
+at Camilo’s house, where we supped on roasted turkey, cascuella, and
+the roasted seeds of the Araucano pine; enjoyed our pipes, and retired
+to rest.
+
+_Friday, 29._--In no hurry to rise this morning: breakfasted at 10,
+and occupied three hours in loading the mules and hiring horses and
+additional mules for the conveyance of the shipwrecked crew. At 2 in
+the afternoon we took leave of Camilo’s family, and proceeded towards
+Arauco, where we arrived about 3; and dined with the Commandant
+Valenzuela, and the officers who were so kind to us on our way up.
+After dinner, a meeting of the friendly caciques was held at this
+gentleman’s house; when, through the means of an interpreter, they
+intimated to the Consul and Commandant their friendly disposition
+towards the shipwrecked crew, and their readiness to assist them. The
+Consul presented each of them with a jacket, some indigo, tobacco,
+and Jew’s harps, together with some trinkets for their wives. The
+Commandant having made up his mind to accompany us to the wreck, we
+started at 5 o’clock, and about sunset came to a few ranchos on the top
+of a hill, called Mitmessin: here we supped, and retired to bed; but
+passed a miserable night, in consequence of its blowing a gale from the
+northward, and the rancho being neither wind nor water tight.
+
+_Saturday, 30._--Arose and breakfasted; it still blowing hard, and
+raining heavily: our anxiety greatly increasing for the safety of the
+crew. At 10 took leave of our friends, and arrived at the Indian pueblo
+of Albarado at 11, and went to the rancho at which we slept on our
+way up. Here we found the people celebrating a festival--singing and
+dancing in a frightfully savage manner, all more or less intoxicated
+with chichi. They would not allow us to proceed until we acknowledged
+our friendship by partaking of some of their chichi. We then lit our
+pajitas, and, about 3, crossed the river, which we found running very
+rapidly, the current being increased by the heavy rains. I stopped a
+few minutes at the house of Camilo’s major-domo: the inmates welcomed
+my return; but I was obliged to hurry my visit, and rejoin the party.
+We arrived at Lumaco at 6, having passed the troop of mules, which
+were to remain at the major-domo’s house should night overtake them. We
+dismounted perfectly drenched, it having rained incessantly during the
+day, dried our clothes by the fire, supped, and retired to rest, with
+the consolation that we were only a short day’s journey from the wreck.
+
+Arose at daybreak, it still blowing and raining; waited till 10 for the
+mules, when they arrived. The servants having breakfasted, at half-past
+11 we mounted, and at 2 came to the Rio Leubu, which we crossed in a
+much better conveyance than we did in our way up; the Consul having
+brought a large batsa, and a man to manage it, in the hope of assisting
+the shipwrecked crew in transporting parties and baggage across the
+rivers. The Consul, Camilo, and myself having crossed, we hurried on
+our way to the wreck, leaving the mules to follow.
+
+About 5 we arrived; and I introduced the Captain to the Consul, who
+presented the Commandant, and was gratified by the kind welcome of
+my shipmates and fellow-sufferers, who hailed us as the harbingers
+of their deliverance from the wretchedness and privations they had
+endured; and those only who have been placed in similar circumstances
+can imagine the delightful feelings produced by such a meeting:
+having left them surrounded by danger, and now finding them encamped
+in comparative safety on a mound of sand about 200 yards from the
+unfortunate ship.
+
+_Monday, June 1._--Wind light from the north. Several pieces of the
+ship’s bottom were picked up on the beach. The officers sent to examine
+the entrance of the Rio Leubu returned, bringing a favourable report
+on the objects in view. The Consul, with the governor, being convinced
+of the absolute necessity of instantly removing from our present
+encampment, the Captain and officers met in the presence of the Consul,
+for the purpose of drawing up a statement of the reasons which caused
+such a course (of abandoning the wreck) imperative. The opinion of all
+on this subject was unanimous.
+
+The nature of the resolutions at this meeting will be understood by a
+perusal of them; they are signed by each person then present, and were
+prepared as a public document for the information of the Admiralty, if
+called for. Captain Seymour, feeling it his duty to protect the wreck
+as long as circumstances would permit, in order that a communication
+might be made to the senior officers for his decision on the case,
+also addressed a letter, through the Consul, to the governor of
+Arauco, requesting his authority, with a force from him to guard it
+from the inroads of the Indians, until the pleasure of the Commodore
+could be received. The reply to this request from the governor states
+his inability, from various insurmountable difficulties, to give the
+assistance asked for.
+
+The decision of moving to the entrance of the Rio Leubu drew the
+attention of all to the necessary preparations. The crew were,
+therefore, variously employed in packing provisions for carriage on
+mules, a number of which, with many horses, had followed or accompanied
+the governor of Arauco. The sail-makers were employed in making small
+tents of a transportable size, the carpenters fitting poles for them;
+and spars were prepared to form sledges for the conveyance of heavy
+articles and casks, to be drawn by oxen, which we hoped, through the
+interference of the governor and the friendly caciques, to have driven
+down to our encampment for that purpose.
+
+The officers examined into the state of the men’s clothing, and gave
+directions for every thing to be packed ready for a moment’s warning;
+and they were allowed to furnish themselves with bags, where wanted,
+out of certain sails, or canvass appropriated to that purpose. The
+crew, as well as the officers, being much distressed for shoes, the
+hides of the bullocks which we had been furnished with were carefully
+portioned out in pieces of a size to make moccassins, which, being
+laced on tight to the foot, soon assumed a form, and proved a
+convenient and excellent substitute in so important a want; and, during
+the latter part of our sojourn on the shores of Chili, were used almost
+universally.
+
+At 1 P.M. Lieutenant Collins, with Mr. Macdonald, the master, was
+sent to the entrance of the Rio Leubu, to make a more particular
+examination, with reference to the safety of a ship’s approach to it.
+The former, furnished with a passport from the governor of Arauco, and
+a guide, was to proceed on to Concepçion, with a letter from Captain
+Seymour to the senior or naval officer there, or elsewhere, stating
+our intention of proceeding to the Rio Leubu, there to await succours
+for our removal by sea. Lieutenant Collins was furnished with an order
+from the Captain to this effect: that if he found, on his arrival
+at Concepçion, there appeared no early prospect of any naval officer
+having it in his power to come to our assistance, he was to use his
+endeavours to hire a vessel capable of embarking the crew, and bring
+her himself to our relief.
+
+At sunset the weather was moderate and cloudy. The usual daily muster
+under arms was gone through, and preparation made for the night, on
+board the wreck as well as on shore.
+
+_Tuesday, June 2._--Light winds from the east, and fine weather. Mr.
+Macdonald returned from the entrance to the Leubu, confirming its
+advantages in favour of our measure of encamping there, as well as
+for embarkation. At noon, Lieutenant Tause, with an armed party to
+the number of about thirty men, including two midshipmen, started for
+the newly destined site of encampment, taking under their escort from
+thirty to forty mule-loads of provisions, tents, and various articles
+of baggage. We were most fortunate in a continuance of a few days of
+fine weather, as rain would almost have put a stop to our march, from
+the obstacles offered on the road. In one instance we had a mile to
+cut through an aged forest, whose solitude would appear to have reigned
+unbroken for centuries. The governor of Arauco was most attentive and
+vigilant in acquiring a knowledge of the movement and position of the
+hostile Indians, and constant spies were despatched to the hills south
+of us. A good number of mules and horses had been collected and driven
+to the vicinity of our camp, and great exertions were made, therefore,
+by all to expedite our march. Several of the caciques had consented to
+allow their bullocks to be yoked to assist the transport of our heavy
+baggage. Pinoleo, his wife and daughter, and followers, took another
+look at us this day, but did not remain any length of time, though they
+accepted a little rum and water previous to returning to the hills.
+
+_June 3._--Fine weather, light wind from N.E. We this day loaded
+about sixty mules, and, with poles lashed together, on which were
+secured casks, and other heavy articles, made up loads for eleven
+yokes of oxen; the whole of which started for the Leubu: a party of
+men in advance, to cut down the trees and clear the road for them. The
+difficulties which the oxen had to overcome, in dragging heavy loads
+through swampy ground and thick abrupt woods, were very great, and
+could only have been overcome by the steady perseverance and patience
+so characteristic of the Indians who guided them. Five caciques now
+arrived from different directions, and with many followers, for the
+purpose of having a formal interview with the Governor of Arauco, the
+Consul, and Captain. They were, Cheuquante, cacique of Molquilla;
+Pinoleo, cacique of Lumuco; Antinao, cacique of Arauco; Currinir,
+cacique of Tucapel; and Udalevi, cacique of Arauco (father of Antinao).
+Rafael Lobo was also present: he is the accredited interpreter for the
+Chilian government amongst the Indians of the district of Arauco, and
+is allowed to style himself Teuciente de la Reduçion di Tucapel. This
+interview was highly interesting, as displaying much of the character
+and manners peculiar to the Araucanian Indians: it lasted almost three
+hours; an interpreter, accustomed to the office, on the part of the
+governor, undertaking to make and receive the various communications
+that passed. The Indian language is not unpleasant, and reminded us a
+good deal of that of the South Sea Islands. Their mode of address,
+however, is very singular, in short abrupt sentences, on the latter
+words of which was laid a loud and peculiar emphasis. Before the
+conclusion of the meeting the Consul spread out his bundle of presents,
+consisting of strings of coloured glass beads, papers of indigo,
+tobacco, cotton printed handkerchiefs, and Jew’s harps, the whole of
+which were appropriately distributed, and received by the Indians with
+great apparent satisfaction, as offered by Mr. Rouse, the Consul, in
+the name of His Majesty the King of Great Britain. With the caciques
+came the infant child of one of them: the mode in which it was brought
+was singular. It was placed in a rude wooden box, framed something
+like a wooden coal-scuttle, contrived so as to make a snug fit for its
+little imprisoned inmate, whose head only was visible over the edge of
+the front; the back formed the handle, by which it was slung, by hide
+straps, to the Indian woman who took charge of it, and who, mounted on
+horseback, conveyed it away. On taking leave, the caciques went through
+the ceremony of a parting embrace with the governor, Consul, and
+Captain; which was by putting the right arm over the left shoulder, the
+left arm round the waist, under the right arm, the head resting on the
+right shoulder, and the contrary. They finally accepted from the Consul
+a small cask of Concepçion wine, with which they retired to the hills
+to drink.
+
+_June 4._--The weather continued quiet and fine. The Captain, taking
+with him a guide, started early this morning to examine the progress
+and position of our new encampment at the entrance of the Leubu.
+Advantage was taken of this day to transport our sick, eight in
+number, to the camp: they were mounted on the quietest horses we could
+procure, and made their journey very comfortably under the charge of
+Mr. Lane, the assistant-surgeon. The Captain returned towards sunset,
+highly satisfied with the judicious selection, by Mr. Tause the
+first lieutenant, of the spot, on which his exertions had made great
+progress towards the erection of tents for the reception of the crew,
+provisions, and stores. An attempt was made to-day to drag the cutter
+on spars beyond the promontory of land W.N.W. of the wreck, distant
+about a league, with the intention of watching an opportunity, if the
+surf should ever permit it, to launch her, under the shelter of a reef
+of rocks, and take her round to the entrance of the Leubu; but it was
+not persisted in, from the little chance of success; the strength and
+exertions of the crew being, also, of much more consequence for other
+purposes. The governor of Arauco had procured a small ox, which he
+presented to the Captain, and which we killed for the mess. Towards
+the evening a messenger arrived with despatches from Arauco for the
+governor, informing him that a body of 600 hostile Indians, under the
+cacique Cadin, were within two days’ march of us, and that 2000 more
+were assembled on the hills to support them. This intelligence, with
+other reports, was sufficient to keep us on the alert, and increased
+our desire to leave our present encampment for one where, we hoped, we
+should feel less apprehension of being molested. Spies were immediately
+sent in the direction of the hostile Indians. The usual preparations
+were made for the night, with a muster, and discharge and reload, of
+the small arms.
+
+_June 5._--Northerly winds and fine weather, with occasional fog.
+Busily employed in forwarding baggage to the Leubu, as our means of
+carriage permitted. The caciques came again in a body with their
+followers to pay another visit to us; occupying, most inconveniently,
+much of the valuable time of some of our party. A few more presents
+were found for them. A sort of apology was made to the governor for
+the unruly drunken conduct of a connection of one of the caciques on
+their former visit, when the interpreter drew his sword, and threatened
+to cut him down if he did not desist from interrupting him. The
+penitent Indian afterwards made himself very useful, in conducting and
+influencing other Indians in the transport with oxen of our baggage to
+the Leubu. The dress of the caciques was, in both their visits, not
+very different from their followers, except in the case of Pinoleo,
+whose costume has been already described, and Cheuquante, who looked
+not very unlike one of the monkies which the Savoyard boys exhibit in
+the streets of London; he having, by some means or other, furnished
+himself with what was meant for a cocked hat, with a cockade, a blue
+coatee with red cuffs and collar, and a very long sabre, and adding to
+his ridiculous appearance by his evident self-satisfaction.
+
+A supply of rum and water, in a small cask, was given them; on which
+they took the hint, and retired to the hills.
+
+_June 6._--Moderate breeze from S.W., with thick foggy weather: the
+crew busily employed in collecting every useful article to pack for
+our newly destined camp; a party in the wreck clearing every part
+that could be got at of all worth the difficulty of transporting to
+the Leubu. The governor of Arauco earnestly requested that we would
+destroy any powder which we had saved over the full supply we moved
+with, lest it should fall into the hands of the Indians, when it would
+be turned to the serious disadvantage of the Chilian arms; he not
+having it in his power to take safe custody of it. Several cases of
+large-grained powder were consequently blown up, to the astonishment
+of the wonder-stricken Indians. A detachment of sixteen loaded mules
+again started this day for the Leubu. Sad complaints began to be made
+of the mice, and bitter denunciations against them; but their numbers
+overpowered every effort on our part to get rid of them. It was now
+not uncommon, in the morning, on putting on what had been a jacket, or
+other whole garment, at night, to discover the disappearance of a large
+portion of it,--the effects of the mice during the interval. To the
+canvass they were most destructive, eating large holes in all parts of
+our tents. Our force having been now much divided, we were most anxious
+to make a final march of all to our new camp. Our usual precautions
+were exercised in examining the arms and mustering watches.
+
+_Sunday, June 7._--Fresh breezes, and cloudy from the southward. It had
+been our intention this day to have abandoned our Molquilla encampment;
+but the failure of the means of carriage, the mules not having returned
+from the Leubu, prevented our accomplishing it. The tents were struck
+at daylight, cut up, and placed ready for transport. An express had
+reached the governor, requiring his return to his command at Arauco,
+and announcing that the second in authority there, the major of the
+troops, was on his road, by the concurrence of the Chilian government,
+to relieve him. This major arrived about mid-day. It being evident that
+it would be only by getting a detachment away to-day to Leubu that the
+final abandonment of Molquilla could be accomplished on the morrow, all
+the mules that were on the spot were laden and forwarded; and about 2
+P.M. the captain, with Mr. Sarjeant, the major, and six men, quitted
+the now dismantled camp for the Leubu; having previously appointed a
+strong rear-guard, under the third lieutenant, Mr. W. K. Stephens,
+with Mr. Rouse, the Consul, consisting of a full quarter-watch,
+twelve marines, the surgeon, Mr. Mould, the second master, a mate,
+and a midshipman, to guard the few remaining stores, and to proceed
+as early as possible the next day to join our new camp. Great was
+the satisfaction felt by all at quitting a spot the scene of which
+embittered every recollection. The Captain and officers, on clearing
+the wreck, had got on shore the remains of their cabin furniture, which
+proved very acceptable presents to the governor and Chilino party, the
+late earthquake having destroyed the little they could previously boast
+of. The journey to the Leubu began by passing the promontory along the
+beach, on the north, to a distance of three leagues; then up an abrupt
+grassy slope to a thick forest of very old timber, ascending through
+it, for a mile and a half or two miles, to an open level country, from
+two to three leagues, covered with several species of dwarf myrtles and
+coarse grass, to a second and third patch of wood, and eventually to a
+short steep descent to a swamp, the western side of which skirted the
+slope and hill on which was situated our Leubu encampment: seventeen or
+eighteen miles was considered the whole distance.
+
+_June 8._--Southern bank of the entrance of the Rio Leubu. Fair
+weather, with light S.E. winds. The whole number of cargoes that were
+transported from Molquilla were 279 mule and 61 bullock-loads. The
+situation of our present encampment was the direct opposite of the
+last. From a flat deep sand, we were now on a steep declivity in the
+niche of a thick wood; the soil greasy and slippery, and in wet weather
+it was difficult to preserve a footing. The river Leubu ran into a
+bay about 200 yards below us. The system which had been practised at
+Molquilla was adhered to here; the men being carefully mustered every
+night at sunset, and their arms reported ready for immediate use:
+sentinels being placed at different points of the camp to prevent
+any Indian from entering it. Our tents were now reduced in size, and
+therefore more numerous. The crew was divided into one large tent, and
+ten small circular ones; four or five of the latter form being allotted
+for the captain and officers. The consul had brought a small tent
+with him, one in which he had been some time living at Concepçion
+after the earthquake. In the course of the day the party from Molquilla
+arrived; and we were once more united in our full force, and confiding
+in a hope that from this spot we should, ere long, be relieved. Two
+of the seamen who had lost their way in the fog on the hills, during
+their march from Molquilla, also had come into the camp. We had felt a
+little uneasy about them, and two Chilino guides on horseback had been
+despatched in search of them. They had passed the night in the woods.
+A pet English sheep, which had been saved and carefully protected by
+many friends amongst the crew, had also moved with them. He marched
+with them half the distance, with a pair of saddle-bags, which his
+friends had made for him, across his back, containing a supply, as
+Jack termed it, of provisions for his journey: on becoming tired, he
+was carried on a horse to his journey’s end. The evident intelligence
+displayed by this animal, on first landing from the raft, was very
+striking; he no sooner got on the beach than, turning to the wreck,
+he bleated in a most unusual and extraordinary manner. He had no fear
+of the Indian dogs, and would attack any that offered to come into
+the camp. His daily custom was to attend the grog tub, and he was sure
+of collecting a dinner from all quarters. “Jack,” as he was called by
+his _messmates_, was a Southdown sheep, taken from Portsmouth in 1833,
+as part of the Captain’s live stock. After passing over above 55,000
+miles, in the course of two years, he was landed from the Conway, with
+the Challenger’s crew, at Portsmouth in 1835; and has now a run on his
+native soil for the remainder of his life.
+
+[Illustration: VIEW OF THE LEİİBU CAMP FROM THE NORTH BANK OF THE
+RIVER.
+
+_C Hullmandel’s Lithography_
+]
+
+The weather, which had so long befriended us, now began to threaten
+with those heavy rains, the effects of which we were afterwards to
+feel so severely; the tents proving very inadequate to protect us from
+them. The evening cleared the weather, and a bright moon was visible.
+The note of the horned plover was loudly heard. In allusion to this
+bird, we were told by the major, Signor Sylva, who had been on many
+expeditions against the Indians, that they had a superstition regarding
+the horned plover; which was, that if the note was heard on the right,
+it was to them a bad omen, and the contrary if heard on the left. The
+inmates of each tent had worked hard during the past day, to discover
+the means of keeping off the damp from below, as well as from above.
+
+_Tuesday, June 9._--Squally weather, with showers of rain; the wind
+N.W. A few Indians made their appearance at the camp, bringing, tied
+to their saddles, some nets of potatoes and apples for barter: also
+Rafael Lobo, with a present to the captain of some avellanos (a species
+of nut, the kernels of which the Indians roast, and are not unlike a
+small chesnut); and to establish a claim of some reward, for having
+given us his protection and assistance against the hostile Indians at
+Molquillo, as he then had assumed the command of the armed Indians,
+and had sent spies out to the southward. The seine, which had been
+carefully preserved, and brought to the Leubu, was this day tried in
+the river, but with no great success. At night, we afterwards found
+the attempts were more productive of luck. The few fish we caught were
+highly acceptable. The crew’s employment for this day was draining the
+ground round their tents; a party bringing stones from the beach at the
+entrance of the river, to lay as a footpath through the camp,--the rain
+having rendered it almost impossible to walk, from the swampy state
+of the ground; and in cutting down trees to form a barricade round
+the encampment. The greatest regularity was observed in the hours of
+breakfast, dinner, supper; and such issues of provisions made as the
+state of our store-tent, and the destruction of the mice, would permit.
+We had brought the ship’s bell with us, which was under the charge of
+the sentinel posted at the entrance of our camp, and who struck it
+regularly on receiving the time from the officer on guard. The lights
+in the ship’s company’s tents were reported as put out every night at
+8, and the midshipmen and warrant officers’ at 9. None of the crew were
+allowed to go outside the barricade after 6 P.M. Having some spare
+canvass, with abundance of timber surrounding us, two tents were put
+up in the form of a house, with a good sloping roof, which we covered,
+and used, one as a mess tent for the Captain and officers, the other
+for the warrant officers and midshipmen. This description of tent we
+found superior in point of dryness to the usual form, and, after a
+short interval, others were put up by the officers: one was occupied
+by the captain, and shared with Mr. Sarjeant; and in another were four
+or five of the officers. However, though each day saw some of us
+endeavouring to give dryness to our habitation, the damp and wet proved
+unconquerable.
+
+Signor Sylva made himself very useful to us, whenever his authority
+with the Chilinos or friendly Indians was called for. He expressed
+great satisfaction at being associated with British officers after
+a service of twenty-three years, a part of which time he had been
+campaigning against the Araucanian Indians. He related to us many
+histories of their undaunted courage, as well as some cruel acts of
+treachery which they had been guilty of towards the Chilinos, by
+deceiving them in an assurance of a friendly disposition towards Chili.
+The information which Signor Sylva gave, together with that from other
+sources, put the Indian population at about 40,000: scattered over a
+vast tract of country, mustering 8000 fighting men, but rarely bringing
+against the Chilinos more than from 2000 to 3000 at any one time.
+
+On examining and taking an account of our stores, baggage, and
+provisions, the cunning of the Indians proved to have been too much
+for us. We discovered that there had been a great number of articles
+plundered on the road from Molquilla, particularly clothing and small
+parcels of private property. They had also attempted to secrete a
+cask of spirits, by dropping it in the woods, and not making their
+appearance at the camp. We, however, sent a party out, and, with a few
+mules, found the rum, and brought it away in small barrels.
+
+On a high headland, immediately above the camp, we erected a
+flag-staff, on which we kept a flag constantly flying, and a strict
+look-out to seaward. This hill had a commanding view, not only of the
+sea, but over the surrounding country, including the river and camp;
+and was peculiarly adapted to our purpose, as a spot to establish our
+look-out. The ascent to it from the camp was abrupt and laborious,
+though only at a short distance. It was to be got at more easily by
+making a little circuit through the wood in the rear of us. The timber
+which composed the forests with which we were encircled was principally
+myrtle and evergreen oaks, and of great variety. Large tracts of land
+were free from timber; and the soil was filled with various bulbous
+roots, several specimens of grasses, abundance of strawberry plants,
+and an infinity of flowering shrubs and creepers.
+
+The lateness of the season unfortunately prevented our seeing in flower
+much of what has been enumerated. On the north side of the river a
+plain extended to the hills, on which were several patches of maize
+growing, and a herd of horses and a few sheep grazing. Two Indian huts
+were also situated there, the inmates of which attended to the care of
+the stock and labour of the cultivated parts.
+
+This plain was rented by a Chilian of Arauco from the Indian
+proprietor. The land is exceedingly rich; and, whenever the time
+arrives that Chili is able to extend her authority over the Indian
+territory, the result of even a moderate attention to agricultural
+pursuits must prove most beneficial. At present, the system pursued by
+the Chilian farmer, who is fully alive to the value of the Indian land,
+is, by fair means and persuasion, or bribery, to induce the caciques
+to allow him to rent his land, which they do for a mere trifle; the
+only use now made of it is as a run, for the increase of their cattle,
+which is the most important part of a Chilian land-owner’s property,--a
+Chilino’s riches being estimated in proportion to the number of cattle
+he possesses. The price of a bullock is about sixteen dollars. The
+policy of the government of Chili appears to be, to exterminate the
+race of Indians, and get forcible possession of the whole country south
+of their present frontier. In some instances the caciques have allowed
+a sale of a portion of their land, on obtaining the consent of their
+neighbours; but there exists a great jealousy of their doing so. The
+mice continued their destructive and annoying visits.
+
+The morning after our first detachment had reached the banks of the
+Rio Leubu, one of the boys, furnished with a tin pot, sought out a
+spring of fresh water, which ran at the foot of the slope on which we
+were entrenching ourselves, for the purpose of drinking. An Indian
+rode up, and earnestly supplicated, by signs, his desire to drink. The
+boy handed the tin to him, which he no sooner got possession of, than
+he turned his horse, galloped off, and, swimming the river, was soon
+lost sight of amongst the opposite hills. At Molquilla, many articles
+thrown from the wreck, when washed on shore, were taken off the beach,
+under the ponchos of the Indians. The cunning mode in which they loaded
+themselves was very characteristic: they were seen to get off their
+horses, and lay down by the side of the longed-for object, which they
+gradually gathered up under their ponchos, and secured possession of by
+mounting their horses and galloping off to the hills.
+
+_Wednesday, June 10._--Fair quiet weather: the crew employed in
+strengthening our barricade, draining the camp, cutting wood, and
+drying their beds and clothing. The damp from the ground in our tents
+was very great, and some few complaints of rheumatism were heard. At 6
+30′ A.M. we had a very severe shock of an earthquake. We saw but few
+Indians at our present camp, as compared with the numbers who used to
+surround us at Molquilla. As duty permitted, the officers were allowed
+to go out with their guns, by which we benefited in a supply of game
+for our mess, which was highly acceptable; and the important objects
+of a diversion of mind and health were gained by exercise over the
+surrounding country. We began to feel uneasy at not hearing, from some
+quarter, of a chance of relief; but we had been told by our friend Mr.
+Rouse, the Consul, on his first joining us, that we ought to make up
+our minds to pass the winter where we were, knowing the impassable
+state of the country at this season of the year lying between us
+and Concepçion, as well as Santiago; and hence a difficulty of
+communication with those to whom we might look for succour. At noon, a
+party of officers crossed the river in a balsa, which had been brought
+by the consul, with the hope of its being useful to us. They shot over
+the country north of us with tolerable success. Amongst the occupations
+for the crew, was the construction of a pier or wharf at the entrance
+of the river, by filling up the space between some scattered rocks;
+and intended to facilitate our embarkation, whenever that wished-for
+event might occur. The look-out hill was kept constantly occupied, and
+reports made regularly from it by the midshipmen stationed there. The
+mice continued most troublesome: the little bread we had left decreased
+every night from their visits, as well as our supply of sugar and
+peas; nor did the tents or clothing escape. It was difficult to get
+sleep at night in consequence of their rambles. No plan could prevent
+their getting into our beds, not even when raised on stakes, or in a
+cot slung off the ground. Their feet were formed like a lizard’s, and
+enabled them to climb in all directions, and along the smallest line
+or bough of a tree. Covered mole buttons seemed greatly to attract
+them, and one night would suffice them to run off with any number. In
+our inquiries of the natives, and others around us, as to the cause
+of such myriads of mice, we were told that the Indians supposed it
+originated from the effects of the late earthquake; having a tradition
+of a similar result on a former convulsion of the earth. Our supplies
+of potatoes and poultry were become scanty, from having consumed all
+that the immediate neighbourhood could furnish; it was become necessary
+to send to a distance for what could be collected. Don Bernardino
+procured for us two bullocks. The produce of our guns often formed a
+large part of our dinner: we were quite safe from want, having a good
+supply of salt beef and pork; our bread was, however, almost consumed,
+and we could only serve out to all one quarter of the daily allowance
+(a quarter of a pound). This shortly failed us, and potatoes became the
+substitute.
+
+_June 12._--The wind southerly, and fine weather. The crew airing
+clothing and beds, completing our pier, cutting wood for the cooks,
+and clearing the camp. A party of the officers shot over the country
+surrounding us, to the southward, with tolerable success; bringing in
+several partridges, snipes, and a few widgeons. At 5 P.M. the captain
+received, by way of Arauco, through the governor there, a letter
+from Lieutenant Collins, stating his inability to procure any vessel
+to come to our relief, and his intention to take an opportunity of
+returning with his guide to rejoin us at the Leubu, as he could get no
+intelligence whatever relative to the movements of any man-of-war on
+the coast. This was disheartening; but, as letters had been despatched
+to Santiago, we hoped, through the medium of the Chilian government,
+soon to have some satisfactory communication. Towards evening, after
+the usual muster of the arms had been gone through, a tolerably
+successful haul of the seine was got.
+
+_June 13._--The morning cloudy, the wind northerly; the tents very
+damp: a few small fires were lighted in, and at the entrance of, some
+of them, to endeavour to dry them. The caciques Cheuquante and Rafael
+Lobo paid us a visit to see what they could get from us, bringing an
+offering of some avellanos, which was their usual _bait_. They gave us
+the account of Pinoleo having killed the wife we saw at Molquilla. We
+this day received the two boat cannonades, which we had dismounted,
+and put in charge of some of the Chilino party, to be dragged over
+to us by four bullocks: they were now mounted one at each end of our
+encampment. The crew variously employed, cutting wood and stacking it
+on the flag-staff hill for signal-fires, and about the barricade round
+the camp. A small vessel was this day seen, from the hill, in the
+offing, passing to the southward. The weather, towards night, became
+dark and threatening, and the wind fresh in gusts from the northward.
+
+_June 14._--Strong winds from the northward, with heavy rain, which
+continued throughout the day, wetting the tents very much and causing
+excessive damp. The people employed in endeavouring to make better
+shelter for themselves. At 5 P.M. less rain, but moist and foggy: a
+good deal of surf falling into the bay below us outside the river. In
+the evening, mustered as usual. The weather cleared towards night, but
+continued to threaten more rain.
+
+_June 15._--Heavy rain during the night; wind about N.N.W., 8 A.M. The
+weather clearing, the Captain wrote a letter, which was forwarded to
+Concepçion, through the governor of Arauco, by a Chilino going in that
+direction, addressed to the senior or any naval officer; stating our
+situation, the ill success of Lieutenant Collins in hiring a vessel,
+and begging immediate relief. Repaired our flag on the hill, which the
+strong wind had blown away. As the weather permitted, all hands airing
+and drying clothes and bedding. The mice very troublesome, though we
+calculated that we destroyed at least 500 daily. The weather became
+squally towards the evening, with rain, thunder, and lightning.
+
+_June 16._--A bright morning, which was gladly hailed by all, and
+eager advantage taken of it to air and dry the numerous wet articles
+throughout the camp. Our small boat, the Dingy, had been dragged over
+from Molquilla, and was of great use on the river. It accidentally got
+adrift to-day, with a man in her, who, without the paddles, was carried
+past the entrance of the river, by the rapid current setting out, and
+narrowly escaped being dashed to pieces, by the surf, on the rocks
+outside: she was, however, secured eventually without any bad result.
+
+Mustered under arms at sunset; discharged and reloaded them, as well as
+the cannonades. At 6 30′ P.M. Lieutenant Collins arrived, with
+a guide, on the opposite side of the river, whence we sent the balsa,
+and brought him over. The only information he brought was, a report
+that a man-of-war was expected at Valparaiso, where she would hear of
+our disaster, and, doubtless, take steps for our immediate succour.
+Several rats, of the opossum species, were seen about the camp, and a
+young one taken.
+
+_June 17._--Fine weather; the wind light and variable. Employed the
+crew in various ways; drying clothes, cutting wood, and ditching to
+drain the ground in front of the camp. A strong shooting party started
+over the hills above us, to the southward. At 8 P.M., the officer of
+the watch having reported that five guns were heard to seaward, and
+being ever anxious to attract the attention of any one passing near, to
+show our position, we fired five shot from our cannonades, accompanying
+each with a rocket, and lighted a large fire on the hill, where we also
+burnt a blue light: nothing, however, was seen, though many of us ran
+to the hill, in all haste, to discover the supposed sail; we therefore
+concluded that the noise of the sea on the rocks, below the hill, might
+have given rise to the mistake.
+
+_June 18._--Fine weather, with light variable winds. All hands employed
+in airing and drying bedding, &c., and as otherwise necessary. A party
+were despatched to reconnoitre the state of the wreck, which was found
+much displaced, from the effects of the late gales; and the flat, on
+which our camp had stood, showed marks of having been much overflowed.
+Many Indians were searching round the wreck, and stared hard at our
+party: they had their horses ready to decamp. Nothing in sight from
+our look-out hill. The glories of Waterloo were this day not forgotten
+by us, even in this wild and distant spot; the health of the Duke
+of Wellington being drank, with cheers, in the officers’ tent. Our
+companion, Signor Sylva, the Chilian major of Arauco, had heard of
+Napoleon and of the Duke of Wellington, and was quite eloquent on this
+occasion.
+
+_June 19._--Fine morning; wind variable. Mustered; examined, and took
+an account of the ship’s company’s clothing and bedding. The store-tent
+was this day examined, and an attack made on the mice. A shooting party
+went out to try the ground on the south bank of the Leubu; which, about
+a league from the entrance, begins to be thickly wooded on each side,
+presenting some very picturesque windings. On the tops of the hills
+overhanging the river, the views, inland, are very extended; and ranges
+of hills can be traced, till lost amongst the chain of the Andes; but
+not a vestige of a habitation is to be seen. A Chilino was detected,
+to-day, in attempting to introduce a strong spirit, peculiar to the
+province of Arauco, into the camp; and, knowing the threat which the
+Captain had, through Signor Sylva, held out against such a transaction,
+attempted to make his escape across the river; but his horse, being
+tired, failed him: the skin of spirits was, therefore, taken possession
+of, and emptied in the mud. Nothing in sight from the hill. The bay
+below us being smooth, the Dingy was sent out to sound, and found
+a depth of water for anchorage from nineteen to five fathoms, in a
+direction between the two points which formed it. The seine was hauled
+outside the river, and several fine fish, of the carbinu tribe, taken.
+
+_June 20._--Dark and cloudy weather, with showers of rain. Employed
+the ship’s company in making a road to the pier, laying on stones, and
+ditching it on each side. Though our sick list had happily continued
+low in number, there were many amongst the crew who were suffering
+from rheumatic attacks, the effects of the constant exposure to damp.
+Another reconnoisance was made of the wreck, which continued much as
+it had been in the former visit. Many Indians, strangers to us, from
+the southward, were engaged in examining it. The annoyance of the
+mice continued incessant, frequently obliging the crew to rise in the
+night to drive them from their beds, and preventing the possibility of
+getting rest. A few fish were again taken in the evening. At night, the
+weather moderate and cloudy: wind N.W.
+
+_June 21._--Cloudy, foggy morning. Mustered the crew by the open
+list. The Consul despatched a man to Concepçion, _viâ_ Arauco, with
+letters. A brig hove in sight this morning from the signal-post; but,
+though we used all our endeavours to attract her attention, they were
+unsuccessful; and we had the disappointment of losing sight of her at
+dusk. The night promised to be calm and quiet.
+
+_June 22._--Moderate and cloudy weather, with an appearance of rain:
+the wind northerly. The crew employed road-making, and clearing up our
+camp. The Captain and a party of officers crossed the river; rode to
+the opposite point of the bay, to see a curious cavern, known to the
+Indians as having formerly given shelter to the notorious pirate and
+rebel, Benivedes, and his party, and who were for some time succoured
+by them against the wrath of the Chilian forces. The road to this cave
+was a difficult one, through an almost impassable wood, and down a
+steep declivity from the hills above it. It was large, and sufficiently
+spacious to contain 1000 or 1500 men.
+
+The party, on their return, visited the Indians in the huts on the
+plain north of the river; and succeeded, under the authority and
+assistance of Sylva, in extracting from them a couple of fine turkeys,
+with which they returned to the camp: they sat some time in the
+huts, and got some well-roasted potatoes from the inmates. A mother,
+half naked, was suckling her naked infant; and poultry and dogs were
+moving about in all directions: a pile of maize straw was heaped, in a
+particular form, on one side, which appeared to be the sleeping place
+for the whole party, and common to all, and very dirty. The influence
+of Don Bernardino had procured us the luxury of milk; several cows
+having been driven down and swam across the river, and established at
+the huts immediately below our encampment, near the entrance of the
+Leubu, in one of which resided the old Indian proprietor of the ground
+which we were on.
+
+_June 23._--It blew a gale of wind from the northward during the night,
+with heavy rain, causing a good deal of surf to roll into the bay. It
+continued raining hard till towards the evening, when it became foggy,
+with less wind. The crew suffered much from the wet state of their
+tents and clothing, and the confinement occasioned by the rains. The
+want of warm clothing was much felt: every possible substitute was
+resorted to; one of which was, the turning the blankets of those who
+were fortunate enough to possess one into ponchos, by putting the head
+through a hole cut in the middle, and which, with the addition of a
+belt, was the usual dress of the sentinels and watch.
+
+An occasional visit was made to our old Indian landlord, the landed
+proprietor over many miles of land around us: his family consisted of
+eight or ten in number of either sex, subject to his control; they
+lived in what appeared to us great misery, dirt, and smoke, with mud
+outside their hut a foot deep. A little ground maize, some shell fish,
+or potatoes, appeared to form their food. Several small patches of
+ground were cleared and tilled by them for raising grain and potatoes;
+but during our stay little attention was paid to these objects.
+Indolence is certainly allied to the character of the Indian. The
+old proprietor was never met without receiving from him the friendly
+sentence of salutation of “Mai, mai;” and in his manner, he appeared to
+have a great respect towards us. Our tents felt the gale very much, and
+the rain penetrated on all sides. The bay was also rough and unquiet,
+with a good deal of surf breaking on the beach. The evening was cloudy,
+with rain. At 11 30′ P.M. we were joyfully surprised by a hail from the
+opposite bank of the river in our own language, which elated all with
+a hope, that the time had now arrived when we might look for the means
+of at length abandoning our tedious and comfortless encampment. The
+Dingy was immediately launched, and passed over to the north side, and
+returned with Captain Fitzroy, of his Majesty’s sloop Beagle, a German
+pilot, a servant, and their guide. Captain Fitzroy, to whom we owe a
+debt of great gratitude for his zealous exertions in our behalf, had
+arrived at Concepçion in his Majesty’s ship Blonde, Commodore Mason,
+C. B., and had volunteered to come overland, and take back to the
+commodore a report of our situation. The state of weather, and season
+of the year, had rendered his journey difficult and perilous, from the
+unusually flooded state of several rivers which he had to pass on his
+route. He had experienced many falls, from the difficulty of preserving
+the path through the woods in the dark, during the latter part of his
+journey.
+
+We now heard that the Commodore had arrived at Concepçion on the 20th,
+from Valparaiso, where our disaster had only been known on the 17th, a
+month after the event: that he had hired, to despatch to our relief,
+an American schooner (the Carmen) from Concepçion, and that we might
+expect to see her off the Leubu in the course of a few days. We did
+our best to find supper, a sleeping place, and dry clothes for Captain
+Fitzroy and his companions. It is not to be sufficiently expressed how
+much joy and cheerfulness was at once diffused throughout the camp.
+
+Our relief we now looked forward to as near at hand.
+
+_June 24._--It rained hard during the night, but towards morning it
+cleared off. After examining the state of our situation, and consulting
+with Captain Seymour as to the expediency of the Blonde’s immediately
+proceeding to our assistance, Captain Fitzroy set off without delay on
+his journey, to return to Concepçion, and was fortunately favoured by
+an interval of fine weather.
+
+Our sick list had increased but little; yet it was evident that many
+amongst the crew, as well as officers, were suffering greatly from
+the constant exposure to wet and damp. That it was not more felt is
+a matter of surprise: happily we had enough food and spirits, though
+our bread had failed us; and we had saved a cask of tobacco, which
+permitted smoking to be generally practised by all of us, and the
+benefit which arose from it was evidently great. The crew were employed
+in cutting and stacking wood for signal fires on the hill above the
+camp, and in drying clothes and clearing the camp: a party also
+thatching, with boughs of trees, the sentry boxes, to afford the men
+some shelter from the weather. We this morning received a report that
+the Indians had set fire to the wreck, and that it had burnt to the
+water’s edge. Towards night the weather became cloudy, with showers of
+rain.
+
+_June 25._--Hard rain during the night, but clearing since daylight.
+Signor Sylva, who had rendered himself of use in all cases where his
+authority was necessary, this day took his departure for Arauco, with
+our consent that he should do so; his presence now with us not being
+of sufficient consequence to detain him longer from his command at
+Aruaco: the influence of Mr. Rouse, the Consul, still with us, ensuring
+on all occasions the countenance and aid of the Chilian government,
+if wanted. Our friend Sylva found our rum particularly cordial to
+his taste, and his desire to have a small supply for his journey was
+granted. The crew was employed in drying bedding, &c., and scrubbing
+hammocks. We received a supply of potatoes, and a few cheeses, which
+we found very acceptable. Nothing in sight from the hills. The seine
+was hauled in the river, but without success. Erected a hut on the hill
+near the flag-staff, for the shelter of the party who were now posted
+regularly there throughout the night, to keep the signal fires supplied
+with fuel. Three midshipmen were permanently established in this hut,
+which was large enough to hold the party of men who joined them every
+evening, at dusk, to arrange the fires. Some of the officers, who were
+rambling over the hills above the camp, discovered the skulls and
+skeletons of several Indians. They were accounted for by the Chilians,
+as some of the many who fell in the time of the rebel Benivedes, who,
+with the Indians to assist him, had made this neighbourhood the scene
+of many battles against the Chilinos.
+
+_June 26._--It rained throughout the night, and drenched the camp,
+causing most serious discomfort to the sick and invalids. Two officers
+were despatched to ascertain the truth of the report of the burning
+the wreck, which was confirmed on their return, scarcely a vestige
+remaining. The force of the surf had washed up on the beach several
+of the tanks, which the Indians were examining. The crew employed
+in drying and airing clothes and bedding. The mice continued their
+destructive attacks on us. At 5 P.M. a sail was reported to be in
+sight from the hill in the N.N.W. direction, and there existed little
+doubt that it was the schooner Carmen, on her way to find us. Most
+unfortunately, the weather becoming foggy and squally, she was soon
+lost sight of, and our only hope of attracting her attention was by
+making large fires, which was immediately done, and kept burning all
+night, but with ill success. A fine condor was shot by one of the
+midshipmen on the hill. It was one of several which were constantly
+hovering over our camp. Some of our sick began to exhibit symptoms of
+fever, and caused us to feel an increasing anxiety to be relieved; for
+we could not ensure a dry bed for a sick person, and the surgeon was
+much abridged in the necessary medicines. At sunset, mustered under
+arms. The night squally, with hard rain.
+
+_June 27._--Continued heavy rain, with thunder and lightning, causing
+the greatest possible discomfort to us; the weather so bad, that the
+crew could be employed only in their tents, and were suffering much
+from the wet. The fires had, with great difficulty, been kept burning
+during the night. The evening still dark, cloudy, and threatening.
+
+_June 28._--No improvement in the weather, the rain falling heavily.
+Our camp in a deplorable condition, and the crew prevented from
+employment and exercise. The sick not improving, and several instances
+of despondency amongst them. The night promising no prospect of fairer
+weather.
+
+_June 29._--Wind N.W. and N. Still raining, and with no appearance of
+its clearing. Our camp in a worse state than ever, and our situation
+becoming hourly more serious and anxious, from our want of comfort and
+protection for the sick, whose numbers were increasing. Towards evening
+it rained less heavily, and the crew were employed in cutting fire-wood
+for the cooks and the hill. At night it was dark and cloudy, with a
+dense fog.
+
+_June 30._--Wind northerly and N.W. Drizzling rain, with fog: nothing
+in sight from the hill. The necessity of drying clothes and bedding
+had become so great, that the crew were employed in lighting large
+fires in the neighbouring wood, to endeavour to effect this object;
+and, though a novel one, and in a damp fog, it succeeded tolerably
+well. The officers could not now stroll far, and our supply of game
+was at an end. Occasional visits to the Indian hut below us were
+sometimes paid. To day, our little old Indian proprietor was squatted
+before his fire in the centre of his hut, which was full of smoke,
+poultry, and dogs, making a net, for holding potatoes or apples, out
+of strips of coarse rushes, that grow abundantly in the neighbourhood.
+A native of Arauco rents of him land to the extent of from 4000 to
+6000 acres, for the value of ten dollars annually; used as a run for
+a few horses and cattle, but liable to a visit from the more southern
+or hostile Indians. Two or three of the grown up females usually paid
+a daily visit to a spring situated in the wood joining our camp, with
+calabashes, and aided each other in washing their heads and hair, to
+which they appeared to pay great attention; a considerable time being
+occupied in the _examination_ and arrangement of the back hair, which
+was dark and very long, bound up in the form of the old-fashioned
+queue, with a band comprised of coloured worsted threads, and allowed
+to hang down the back, and terminating with many little ornaments of
+brass or glass beads. Mustered, as usual. The weather dark and foggy.
+
+_July 1. 1835._--Wind northerly. The weather thick and misty. The crew
+had again recourse to lighting large fires in the wood, to dry their
+bedding and clothes. Nothing yet in sight from our look-out. Our sick
+list numbered about eleven, who were seriously ill, but many more were
+complaining from rheumatism; but the hope, which was kept alive, of our
+being succoured made them bear their pains patiently. Mustered our arms
+as usual, and prepared and lighted the signal fires on the hills. The
+evening proved dark and foggy.
+
+_July 2._--Wind N.W. and N. The weather remained thick, with rain
+at times. Nothing visible in the offing: and our hope of seeing the
+schooner at an end. As the weather permitted, the crew were occupied
+in preparing wood for the camp and hill fires. A supply of potatoes
+arrived from the northward for us, and proved most seasonable, as our
+stock was nearly exhausted. One addition was made to our sick list; Mr.
+Lane, the assistant surgeon, was amongst the seriously ill with fever.
+A portion of clothing, &c., was dried by fire during the day. The
+weather cleared towards evening, and at intervals the moon was seen,
+which, for a length of time, with us, had been a rare occurrence.
+
+_July 3._--Wind north-westerly and calm; the morning thick and foggy,
+but inclined to clear at times on the horizon at sea, with a prospect
+of better weather. At 1 30′ P.M. two guns were distinctly heard from
+the look-out hill, by the captain and several officers who were there,
+in the south direction, and apparently not more distant than six or
+eight miles. Several of us walked along the cliff bordering on the
+sea, for some miles to the southward, watching anxiously for the
+weather to clear away, and discover a sail; but nothing was seen. The
+mice continued our enemies, and habit in their case did not overcome
+the annoyance they were to us; at night particularly, in disturbing
+our sleep. One of the sentinels was taken ill to-day on his post. No
+further increase of our sick list. A party of the officers gathered
+enough wild turnip-tops for our mess dinner, which proved very
+acceptable. At sunset, discharged arms and cannonade, and reloaded for
+the night. All anxiously looking for some relief. A part of our stock
+of blue lights was placed in the hut on the hill, in case they might be
+wanted as signals to any ship appearing at sea.
+
+_July 4._--Wind light and westerly. This was the first clear morning
+we had witnessed for many days, and it cheered us to see once again the
+sunshine. Some more turnip-tops were gathered for our dinner to-day on
+the hills; this, though apparently trifling, was in our situation very
+acceptable. Discharged arms as usual at sunset, and reloaded for the
+night.
+
+An altitude obtained to-day on the sand at the entrance of the Leubu
+gave us a latitude of 37° 36′ S., which proved to be many miles north
+of our situation as shown on the old Spanish chart. A tolerable haul of
+fish was got outside the river. The crew busily employed in airing and
+drying their clothes and bedding, and in holding themselves prepared
+at any moment to embark; orders to that effect having been given for
+some days past, as well as preparations made for moving our baggage
+from the camp to the pier. The necessity of separating our sick from
+their companions, who were still in health, caused us to set about
+erecting a large hut in imitation of that of the Indians, endeavouring,
+if possible, to thatch it in a similar manner with the common rushes
+that grow in great abundance very near us, and thus afford to the
+sick shelter from the rains. To this end the united strength of our
+carpenters and the greater part of our crew was employed in felling
+trees of a convenient size to form uprights for the sides and rafters,
+for the purpose of a good sloping roof; cutting and collecting also the
+rushes for thatch; and so earnestly did we set about the work, that
+the whole frame of the hut, which was secured together with strands of
+rope-yarns, was near its completion by the evening. Several flocks of
+parrots visited us this morning, and continued their flight and noise
+round our camp for some hours: two of them were shot. Don Bernardino
+complained to us of the difficulty he found in getting a supply of
+potatoes, arising from the great distance they had to be brought, and
+in many instances the ravages committed on the crops by the mice. Our
+sick list remained stationary; several of the crew were in a weak
+state, and with the assistant-surgeon and three midshipmen were most
+seriously ill, with what now looked like typhus fever. At sunset went
+through our daily muster; the weather cloudy, but dry; wind light and
+variable.
+
+_July 5_.--The wind light from the southward, and the weather clear.
+At 7 30′ A.M. a sail was reported in sight from the look-out on the
+hill: this joyful sound opened the ears of all; and when, after a most
+anxious examination, through the few glasses we possessed, she was
+pronounced to be a man-of-war, it was received by a cheer throughout
+the camp, and every heart expanded with joy at the gladdening prospect
+at length opened to us. Large fires were lighted on the hill, and
+all possible demonstration made to show our position. About 10 A.M.
+we had the satisfaction of making out His Majesty’s ship Blonde,
+and observing her hoist her colours, and fire two guns as a signal
+that we were seen. Orders were now given to prepare for embarkation;
+all hands were therefore employed in removing to the pier our heavy
+baggage, in which we were much expedited by our having made several
+sledges adapted to this purpose, and dragged by the crew. Towards noon
+four boats were seen to leave the Blonde, but the distance they had
+to row prevented their reaching our little landing place inside the
+entrance of the river until it was too late to risk any embarkation.
+The first boat that arrived brought our tried friend Captain Fitzroy,
+who, agreeing with Captain Seymour on the propriety of deferring our
+operations until daylight next morning, immediately returned to the
+Blonde to communicate to Commodore Mason the arrangement that had been
+made, fortunately getting to the ship soon after dark, taking with him
+a second boat’s crew of the Challenger’s men, to supply the place of
+those who were to remain on shore with the three boats, which we had
+hauled up on the banks of the Leubu, and secured for the night. Captain
+Seymour had also sent an officer with Captain Fitzroy, to give to the
+Commodore every information he might require as to our condition and
+readiness for embarkation.
+
+During the day there arrived on the north bank of the Leubu a guard of
+thirty infantry from Arauco, under the command of an officer, sent by
+the authorities there to be at our service: however, as most happily
+our period of encampment was about to be put an end to, they bivouacked
+on the opposite bank of the river, the officer crossing and taking up
+his quarters with us, and receiving our thanks for his exertions in our
+cause, and a letter from the Consul to the government authorities at
+Arauco, expressive of our warm acknowledgment for their kind attention
+towards us. Some showers of rain fell in the evening, but the night
+promised fair and clear weather.
+
+_July 6._--Wind S.E., with clear weather. Nothing could have happened
+more providentially for us than the favourable manner in which we were
+this day circumstanced with regard to the wind and weather, and which
+permitted the Blonde at 9 A.M. to anchor off the point below our signal
+hill. We had at daylight launched and loaded the Blonde’s three boats,
+and immediately despatched them; had struck the tents, lashed up our
+bedding and clothing, and brought all to the pier, ready to put into
+the boats as they arrived.
+
+Many of the sick were sent off in the fastest rowing boat of those
+which were first despatched. Towards the middle of the day, the
+Commodore landed and visited the remains of our camp, and by 6 P.M.
+every one, with the whole of our baggage, was embarked, the last two
+boats having taken off the Captain, Mr. Rouse the Consul, and five
+officers with the marines, who had, as consistent with our previous
+system of caution, been retained to the last as a rear-guard, and
+only discharged their muskets as they left the scene of our long and
+cheerless encampment.
+
+It can fall to the lot of few to experience the varied sensations
+occasioned by our sudden transition to a man-of-war, and our
+restoration to those comforts to which we had so long been strangers;
+allied, it is to be hoped, with thankful hearts to the Almighty for
+the abundant mercies vouchsafed towards us. We shall long cherish
+recollections of the very kind attentions paid by the officers of the
+Blonde to our wants and comforts. We were under weigh soon after dusk
+for Concepçion.
+
+_July 7._--When about to enter the port of Concepçion, we observed
+a schooner to leeward, under jury-masts: on going to her relief she
+proved to be the Carmen, which the Commodore had despatched from this
+port to our assistance. In her way to the Leubu, that river being
+incorrectly laid down in the chart, she had run past it; and having
+been dismasted in a heavy squall, and drifted into the current which
+had proved fatal to the Challenger, was for some time in danger of
+sharing her fate on the Isle of Mocha. The Blonde towed her into
+Talcuhuana Bay, where and at Concepçion we were eyewitnesses to
+the wide-spreading devastation occasioned by the late earthquake.
+The Commodore, with Captains Seymour and Fitzroy, made visits to the
+Chilian authorities at Concepçion, for the purpose of thanking them for
+the attentions and assistance we had experienced, connected with our
+shipwreck.
+
+An old English inhabitant of the city of Concepçion described the
+earthquake as having taken place at a time when he was in the street
+fronting his house, overlooking the labour of some workmen in building
+a wall that was to enclose it. It was a clear sunny morning, and about
+twenty minutes after eleven: he suddenly found himself unable to stand
+from the heaving of the earth, which increased so much that he fell
+to the ground; and there, on his knees and hands to steady himself,
+he remained in a dense cloud of dust, which precluded the possibility
+of seeing any of the surrounding objects, until the first dreadful
+shock had passed. The shrieks and cries of the inhabitants, which had
+accompanied the destruction of the city, continued to be heard far and
+near; and the scene which presented itself, on the clearing of the dust
+caused by the falling of the buildings, was one of the most appalling
+desolation. Parents and children, relations and friends, were searching
+for each other in that distraction of mind which terror, anxiety, and
+apprehension for their safety at such a calamitous moment created. Not
+a building remained standing of the late city of Concepçion: high and
+low, rich and poor, were mingled in an overwhelming destruction. The
+ruins of a church and a convent, erected by the old Spaniards on a most
+magnificent and substantial scale, and which had withstood for ages
+the frequent shocks of previous earthquakes, with which the southern
+continent of America is so peculiarly afflicted, were scattered on
+all sides, and presented to the beholder a most striking and fearful
+assurance of the vanity, as well as the instability, of all that is
+created by the hand of man.
+
+At Talcuhuana, the village which is situated on the border of the bay
+forming the anchorage for shipping, communicating with Concepçion,
+and about six miles from that city, the sea rose between thirty and
+forty feet, and came in, in one great wave immediately following the
+movement of the earth; landed a schooner at the back of the houses; and
+retiring, swept every thing before it; the inhabitants only escaping
+to the hills with their lives. Numerous articles were found on an
+island at the entrance of the bay of Talcuhuana, twelves miles distant
+from the village; and, most singular to relate, amongst them, lying on
+a sandy beach, was a large window frame, recognised by its owner, with
+the sash and glass unbroken. Several volcanos were seen to rise outside
+the bay, which, after burning with violence for twenty minutes or more,
+sank again below the surface of the water.
+
+Our informant was a man of seventy-five years, married, but had no
+family; he had experienced, in the course of his long life, the most
+severe reverses of fortune; and had retired from the coast of Peru,
+with the little resources his labours had allowed him to collect, to
+end his days on a small spot of ground he had purchased in the city
+of Concepçion. With the destruction of the city perished the greatest
+portion of his property; yet, despite of such a misfortune, there was
+visible that beautiful contentedness of mind which is alone to be
+derived from an acquiescence in whatever affliction the hand of the
+Almighty is pleased to send us. It must not be omitted to mention,
+that Mrs. ----, the wife of this gentleman, recovering from the panic
+of fear, got out from the ruins of their house a part of that day’s
+dinner, which was eaten, in thankfulness and tranquillity, under a tree
+in the court-yard adjoining the remains of their dwelling.
+
+The effects of this calamitous earthquake were not confined to the
+immediate neighbourhood of Concepçion, but were also particularly
+severe at the island of Juan Fernandez, distant 300 miles in a W.N.W.
+direction. The sea, there, advanced as in Talcuhuana Bay, and totally
+destroyed the few buildings which were in the occupation of the
+military governor and Chilian garrison. On the sea retiring, a volcano
+rose in the anchorage, and continued burning for some time. It was also
+reported that the island had sunk many feet below its former level.
+
+The island of Santa Maria, situated near the spot of the Challenger’s
+wreck, was found, on examination, to have been upheaved ten feet; and
+the anchorage which had previously existed between it and the main land
+was no longer considered safe.
+
+On the 9th we sailed from Concepçion, taking leave of Mr. Rouse,
+our worthy Consul, who left us, carrying with him the warm esteem
+and respect of all. During the whole time since his entering into
+communication with us, we had benefited by his able services:
+added to his official tact, his urbanity and kind disposition had
+endeared him to all classes; and should his assistance be called for
+under a calamity similar to our own, the unfortunate will find an
+efficient friend in the British Consul at Concepçion. After touching
+at Valparaiso, where two of our sick companions were sent to sick
+quarters, and performing the melancholy duty of burying Mr. Lane, the
+assistant-surgeon, who had sunk under the effects of typhus fever,
+the officers and part of the Challenger’s crew embarked on board His
+Majesty’s ship Convoy at Coquimbo; whence we sailed on the 22d July,
+cheered by the Blonde, and our own pleasing anticipations of soon
+meeting the congratulations of our friends, and the sympathy of our
+generous countrymen.
+
+Including our stay of one week at Rio de Janeiro, we completed
+our passage to Spithead in eighty-four days, during which the
+inconveniences of a crowded ship were obviated by the attentions to
+our accommodation, and the arrangements kindly made by Captain Eden.
+Amongst the sick during this period, of whom the young gentlemen formed
+a large portion, Mr. Fry, a supernumerary clerk, died; the others, with
+a few exceptions, shortly became convalescent.
+
+The misfortune of the Challenger may not be without a moral bearing.
+Our costly experience may prove useful to future navigators upon this
+dangerous coast. With the civilised portion of the inhabitants of a
+country of growing commercial importance, the British character has
+been upheld; and the many relics of our disaster left with the rude
+natives, during our long sojourn amongst them, will tend to perpetuate
+the event; and in their remote traditions may figure, as a leading
+tale, the fate of the “Desafiador,” and the adventures of her crew on
+the plains of Molquilla.
+
+It remains but to add the result of the Court Martial, which was
+held on the 19th of October, on board His Majesty’s ship Victory,
+at Portsmouth harbour, by order of the Lords Commissioners of the
+Admiralty, for the trial of Captain Seymour, the officers, and crew of
+His Majesty’s late ship Challenger, for their conduct in the loss of
+that ship.
+
+The sentence pronounced on that occasion, so honourable to the feelings
+of all, was as follows:--
+
+  “The Court is of opinion, that the cause of the loss of His Majesty’s
+  late ship Challenger was by the ship being then by an unusual and
+  unexpected current, set between noon of the 17th of May last to the
+  time of her wreck, on the 19th of the same month, thirty-four miles
+  of latitude to the southward, which latitude, by dead reckoning,
+  up to the time of taking the sights, being used to work the sights
+  of the chronometer, on the morning of the 19th of May, placed the
+  ship sixty miles to the N.W. of her actual position at that time.
+  The Court is further of opinion, that no blame whatever is attached
+  to Captain Michael Seymour, nor to the said John MacDonald, nor
+  to any of the officers or ship’s company of His Majesty’s late
+  ship Challenger, on the occasion of the loss of the said ship; and
+  the Court doth therefore _fully acquit_ the said Captain Michael
+  Seymour, the said Mr. J. MacDonald, and the surviving officers and
+  ship’s company of His Majesty’s said late ship Challenger, and they
+  are hereby fully acquitted accordingly. The Court cannot close its
+  proceedings without expressing the high sense it entertains of the
+  conduct of Captain Michael Seymour, his surviving officers and ship’s
+  company, when placed in circumstances of the greatest danger, as
+  well as afterwards during a period of seven weeks that they remained
+  on a wild and inhospitable coast, strongly marking the advantages
+  of that steady discipline that has raised the British navy to the
+  confidence of the country, and which, in this instance (as well as
+  in many others), has been the cause of the preservation of the lives
+  and health of the crew, and of their arrival, with two melancholy
+  exceptions, in safety to their own country.”
+
+The President then rose and said, “Captain Seymour, I have much
+pleasure in returning you your sword, and may you continue to wear it
+with honour to yourself and advantage to your country.--Mr. MacDonald,
+I have equal pleasure in returning you yours.”
+
+The Court Martial excited a great degree of interest, in which sympathy
+for the officers and ship’s company of the Challenger for the hardships
+they had endured had a considerable share.
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+
+At the encampment on the beach of Molquilla, in front of and near to
+the wreck of His Majesty’s ship Challenger, Michael Seymour, Esq.,
+Captain, on the first day of June, 1835, at a meeting held by the
+undersigned captain and officers of His Majesty’s said ship, in the
+presence of Henry William Rouse, Esq., His Majesty’s Consul in the
+province of Concepçion, to take into consideration the actual situation
+and condition of the said ship, the state of her remaining stores,
+provisions, and furniture, as well those still on board, as those
+landed, for the purpose of adopting such measures as would be most
+proper, under existing circumstances, for the benefit of his Majesty’s
+service, and the health and security of the crew; after full and mature
+deliberation, the following resolutions were agreed to unanimously:--
+
+_First_,--That the condition and situation of the hull of the said ship
+since the moment of her striking the ground on the 19th ultimo up to
+the present period (as proved by repeated surveys taken) has afforded
+no kind of hope that any exertions could have removed her from the
+beach where she now lies; and even were this possible, she would not
+swim from the injury she has received. Also, that neither vessels nor
+boats can with any kind of safety approach the wreck; neither can boats
+live in the surf outside.
+
+That from the period of the ship grounding, a high rolling sea,
+commencing at nearly a mile to seaward, has continued with more or less
+violence to drive her further on the beach; she now lies imbedded in
+sand at a depth of about ten feet, the drawback of the surf leaving
+her at times nearly dry as far as the gangways. To steady her in her
+present position, a stream chain has been bent to an anchor buried in
+the sand on the beach; and by working the hand and chain pumps, various
+descriptions of provisions and small stores, which have withstood
+the effects of wet, have been got out of the holds, and landed for
+present consumption. The whole frame of the ship is much loosened,
+the fastenings of the iron knees on the main and lower decks, with
+the butts and scarphs of the shelves, clumps, and waterways on both
+decks have started; the copper much wrinkled throughout, many sheets
+being forced off about the fourteen foot draught; the rudder is gone,
+the pentles short off, and the deck and deck transern started. The
+great serious injury done to the ship is from about the main chain
+lockers, to the fore hatchway, where she is bilged, the keel, keelson,
+and flooring being forced up, the supporters in the holds upset, and
+when labouring in the surf, previously to her driving so far up on the
+beach, the lower midship parts, with the chain cables and tanks, worked
+as if about to separate from the upper body of the ship. Several pieces
+of the bottom planking, which appear to be of her garboard streak, and
+above it, have been washed up on the shore.
+
+_Secondly_,--That many of the stores have been thrown overboard to
+lighten the ship, or to save the crew; of the remainder, most are
+damaged, and the sails, ropes, and spars, from absolute necessity, have
+been consumed or rendered useless by the injury received in forming
+barricades for defence against the Indians, and shelter for the crew.
+A few of the heavier stores remain on board: such as spare topmasts,
+topsail-yards, hemp and chain cables, eight or ten guns, &c.; but
+under the circumstances above mentioned, the only useful objects to be
+borne in mind are the preservation of the lives of the crew, and the
+salvage of as many stores, provisions, and furniture as possible: for
+these purposes an encampment has been formed on the beach in the only
+situation capable of any defence from the Indians, protected by, and
+itself protecting, the wreck.
+
+_Thirdly_,--That this encampment, however, is open to many objections.
+It is situated on a low mound of sand, nearly surrounded by marshy
+flats, exposed to the overflowings of the sea, and even to be
+swept away by its rising; a calamity which we understood afflicted
+Talcuhuano, and many parts of this coast, after the great earthquake on
+the 20th of February last. It is now the middle of winter, and heavy
+and continued rains must be hourly expected. Swarms of large mice
+threaten the tents and provision with destruction. The position is
+consequently both unhealthy and insecure. Reports, too, are frequently
+brought to the encampment of attacks meditated by the more southern
+Indians, which tend to harass the men by making it necessary to keep
+them under arms. Should such an attack be successful, the only retreat
+is into a heavy broken surf on the rear, in which no boat can live; or
+if the Indian attack fail, the tents might be burnt in the encounter,
+and the encampment blockaded and starved out, before the only aid, if
+aid might be expected, could arrive from the garrison of Arauco, said
+to be distant about ninety miles.
+
+_Fourthly_,--That all these considerations forbid the hope of
+maintaining the present position near the wreck, until assistance
+can be received from any of His Majesty’s ships: as from the report
+of the country people, and of His Majesty’s Consul, confirmed by the
+examination made by supernumerary Lieutenant Rothery, it appears
+that the mouth of the river Leubu seems to afford an anchorage and
+facilities for commanders of ships coming to the aid of the crew of His
+Majesty’s ship Challenger, this meeting is unanimously of opinion, that
+to preserve the lives of the crew, and as the best means of saving as
+much as possible of the stores, provisions, and furniture of the ship,
+it is absolutely necessary immediately to abandon the wreck, and remove
+with the crew, and such stores, provisions, and furniture as may be
+transportable, to some convenient situation at the mouth of the Leubu;
+that this course will be attended with the least expense to the public,
+for the mouth of the Leubu is distant only about twenty miles, and
+half the road is over a hard sandy beach, presenting less difficulties
+than by way of Arauco to the port of Talcuhuano, said to be distant
+about 150 miles, and over roads known to be exceedingly bad, and almost
+impassable in the winter season.
+
+_Fifthly_,--That this meeting would, therefore, recommend in addition
+to the foregoing, that the second lieutenant and master should be sent
+to examine a second time the mouth of the Leubu; and should the report
+of those officers confirm that of supernumerary Lieutenant Rothery as
+to the before-mentioned capabilities of the mouth of the Leubu, then
+that Lieutenant Collins should proceed with all despatch to the port of
+Talcuhuano, there to act upon the orders and instructions, a copy of
+which is hereunto annexed under the No. 1., and that the master should
+return to the wreck to confirm its capabilities for the objects in view.
+
+_Sixthly_,--In this stage of proceedings His Majesty’s Consul repeated
+what he had previously mentioned in the course of discussion; namely,
+that the government of Chili was in actual state of warfare with
+a part of the Araucano tribes, who occupy the central part of the
+Indian territory, and that a great deal of disaffection towards Chili
+prevailed amongst the southern tribes of the coast about the rivers
+Tirua and Imperial; a disaffection which kept in a constant state of
+alarm the small garrisons in the ruined fort of Arauco: that from
+the most correct intelligence recently obtained, it appeared that a
+Cacique, named Cadin, at the head of about 2000 Indians from Tirua and
+Imperial, had actually been on his march to attack and plunder the
+wreck, when his progress was accidentally arrested by the march of
+the friendly Cacique Colissi at the head of a formidable party from
+the interior: that this accidental circumstance had certainly averted
+immediate danger; but as Colissi had retired to Puren after contenting
+himself with the insignificant plunder of a small tribe of his enemies,
+it would not be prudent to consider the encampment as secure from
+attack: that true it was, the government of Concepçion had directed the
+military commandant of Arauco to detach a force sufficient to protect
+the wreck; but it was well known that officer was in no condition to
+afford any effectual assistance in this manner; and that it would be
+as well to take into consideration what kind of enemies the Araucanos
+were, the distance of Molquilla from the Chilian frontier, and the
+advanced state of the season, which rendered the roads to Arauco
+exceedingly difficult, and almost impassable for shipwrecked seamen,
+and the transportation of stores. His Majesty’s Consul added, that he
+concurred in the correctness of all the preceding observations as to
+the situation of the encampment.
+
+Whereupon it was also resolved, that the Consul should be requested
+to make application to the military commandant of Arauco, now present
+at the encampment with a few militia, soliciting, that whenever it
+became necessary to abandon the wreck, he would be pleased to station
+there a force sufficient for its protection, and that of the remaining
+stores, until such time as the senior officer in the Pacific should be
+able to take measures for saving as much as possible; and also that
+public notice should be given to the effect, that all persons who might
+succeed in saving any part of the wreck or its remaining stores for
+the benefit of His Majesty’s government, would be rewarded with the
+customary salvage upon bringing the same to a place of security, and
+delivery to any of His Majesty’s Consuls.
+
+To the truth of the aforegoing we are ready to make oath when required,
+and in witness whereof we hereunto subscribe our names to this and two
+others of the same tenor and date, at the place, and on the day, month,
+and year first and before mentioned in the presence of His Majesty’s
+Consul aforesaid, who has also subscribed his name hereto.
+
+  M. SEYMOUR, _Captain_.
+  H. TAUSE, _Senior Lieutenant_.
+  W. J. COLLINS, _Second Lieutenant_.
+  W. K. STEPHENS, _Third Lieutenant_.
+  GEO. ALEX. ROTHERY, _Supernumerary Lieutenant_.
+  JOHN M’DONALD, _Master_.
+  JOHN ARNOLD MOULD, _Acting-Surgeon_.
+  J. P. SARJEANT, _Purser_.
+  A. S. BOOTH, _Mate_ (_in charge of a watch_).
+  J. W. LANE, _Assistant-Surgeon_.
+  JOSEPH JAGOE, _Clerk_.
+  ALEX. BARCLAY, _Carpenter_.
+
+                                             H. W. ROUSE, ESQ.,
+                             H. M. Consul in the Province of Concepçion.
+
+
+                        (_Copy._)--MEM. NO. I.
+
+The object of your journey to Concepçion is to inform yourself of the
+most immediate mode by which the crew of His Majesty’s ship Challenger
+can be transported by sea from the mouth of the river Leubu to
+Talcuhuana.
+
+On your arrival at Concepçion, you will inform yourself of the
+probability of any man-of-war having been at Valparaiso at the time the
+news of our misfortune may have reached that place.
+
+If, on mature consideration and inquiry, you see no hope of a
+man-of-war having it in her power to come shortly to our relief, you
+will proceed, in conjunction with the advice of any person competent
+to judge of the most ready means of chartering a merchant vessel,
+or secure a vessel calculated to come to the river Leubu without a
+moment’s delay, to embark the officers and crew, and such articles that
+may be saved from the wreck to the port of Talcuhuana.
+
+You will arrange with the master of such vessel, and make all the
+necessary examinations as to the equipment of her sails and ground
+tackle, as well as soundness of hull, to answer the object in view.
+
+It is to be expressly understood by the master of such vessel, that in
+conducting her to the river Leubu, he is to be subject to your sanction
+and control.
+
+You will avail yourself of any opportunity of communicating with
+His Majesty’s Consul-general at Santiago as to the purport of your
+operations at Concepçion, for the information of the senior officer in
+the Pacific.
+
+You will likewise take charge of certain despatches for the senior
+officer in the Pacific, and His Majesty’s Consul-general at Santiago,
+to be forwarded by the first opportunity from Concepçion.
+
+  1st June, 1835.
+
+                                      (_Signed_)    M. SEYMOUR, Captain.
+
+  To Lieutenant Walter J. Collins,
+    H. M. Ship Challenger.
+
+
+                    (_Translation._)--H. W. ROUSE.
+
+                                                   British Consulate,
+                                              Molquilla, June 6th, 1835.
+
+  SIR,
+
+The captain of His Britannic Majesty’s ship Challenger, wrecked on this
+beach, by letter dated yesterday has notified to me the necessity he
+is under of abandoning the hull and remaining property of the vessel
+referred to, in consequence of a conviction of being unable longer to
+protect them, or to transport them to the mouth of the Leubu, where
+he proposes to establish himself with his people and such effects as
+he may be able to transport, until an opportunity offers itself for
+embarking by sea.
+
+He likewise desires me to beg you will take the steps most proper for
+doing what he is unable to do.
+
+I therefore address you, requesting that if other points of service do
+not forbid, you will, in compliance with the instructions received from
+the military commandant of the lower frontier and acting intendant of
+Concepçion, station in the most convenient situation a force sufficient
+to protect the hull and remaining property of the vessel shipwrecked,
+until such time as the senior officer of His Majesty’s ships and
+vessels in the Pacific may have it in his power to adopt those measures
+most proper for the salvage.
+
+I trust, also, you will be pleased to order inquiries to be set on foot
+whether there be any persons in the subdelegation of Arauco desirous of
+entering into an agreement for the salvage of the property in question;
+and that public notice be given throughout the whole subdelegation
+under your command, to make known, that those persons who may have it
+in their power to save the whole or any part of the property, and lodge
+it in a place of security, in order that it may be obtained possession
+of by any of His Britannic Majesty’s Consuls, will be indemnified with
+the part of salvage fixed by the laws of Chili.
+
+In addition to what is already mentioned, I think to entreat your
+humane good offices in favour of the officers and crew, so that they
+may receive all possible protection during their forced residence at
+the mouth of Leubu.
+
+With this view I have the honour to subscribe myself,
+
+                                  Your attentive sincere Servant,
+                                                 (_Signed_) H. W. ROUSE,
+                                          His Britannic Majesty’s Consul
+                                          in the Province of Concepçion.
+
+    To the Military Commandant of
+            the Fort of Arauco,
+Lieutenant-Colonel Geronimo St. Valenzuela,
+           now at Molquilla.
+
+
+                    (_Translation._)--H. W. ROUSE.
+
+                                                Office of the Military
+                                                Commandant of Arauco,
+                                              Molquilla, June 7th, 1835.
+
+  SIR,
+
+I have received your esteemed note of yesterday’s date, wherein you
+ask for a party of troops sufficient to guard the hull and remaining
+property of His Britannic Majesty’s ship of war “Challenger,” wrecked
+on these shores; that I inquire whether there be any persons inclined
+to enter into an agreement for the salvage of the useful parts of said
+ship, and that public notice be given throughout the subdelegation, in
+order that those who can save any articles, or the whole, by placing
+them in security, and that the Consul or authority of that nation may
+be able to dispose of them shall be indemnified according to the laws
+of Chili; and recommending the protection of the officers and crew who
+have removed, with what has been saved, to encamp at the mouth of the
+Leubu.
+
+In reply, I say, that with regard to the first, I will believe both you
+and the captain of the vessel will do me and government the justice to
+be convinced, that it would be most satisfactory to be able to furnish
+at this point the party of troops asked for; but in this respect the
+thing is too impossible to be able to do it; by reason of the great
+distance of thirty odd leagues between the place of shipwreck and the
+frontier fort of Arauco; by reason of the isolated state of the spot,
+and its utter want of resources for sheltering the soldiers, and for
+keeping their arms and equipments fit for service; the vessel being
+wrecked on an open and bad beach, far from every point at which the
+soldiers could fortify themselves for their own defence, and for the
+safety of the vessel against the barbarous enemies; especially when
+you yourself have seen the official letter of the 3d instant, by which
+I am informed of the near approach of said enemies, in number 2600,
+to invade these frontiers. I might likewise observe to you, that
+the garrison under my command in Arauco only consists at present of
+ninety-nine infantry, six artillerymen, and three officers. In the fort
+you will have seen the totally ruined walls,--a consequence of the
+earthquake of the 20th of February last. To divide that small force for
+a long period to so isolated a spot, were to expose that force, and
+perhaps the whole subdelegation under my charge; and even supposing it
+were allowable to detach the whole force in defence and for security of
+the vessel, that force would always be very much exposed to a sudden
+misfortune from the enemies referred to (who are only distant a day
+and a half’s march from this place), without our obtaining the object
+we proposed. Add to which, that at this time of winter, the river
+swells to the greatest degree, and the roads become impassable between
+Arauco and this place, as you yourself will understand, since you have
+travelled over them in my company upon the present occasion, when they
+are still somewhat practicable.
+
+With regard to the second, I have summoned the persons most proper for
+the object, and no one has been found daring enough to remain longer
+here, because they are aware of the severity of the season and the
+danger from the barbarians: and consequently, on no conditions will any
+one take an interest in the salvage of the remaining property of the
+vessel.
+
+But with regard to the third, upon my return to the fort, I will take
+care to cause the public notice asked for to be circulated throughout
+the whole subdelegation.
+
+With reference to your recommendation in favour of the officers and
+crew who have removed to the mouth of Leubu, I can assure you, that
+the most active steps will be taken for the benefit of the whole in
+the best manner possible, and, as you can testify, has been done up
+to the present moment; but for the reasons already stated, it were
+as well you reminded these gentlemen of the propriety of the greatest
+watchfulness in their new camp, to guard against the enterprises which
+might be meditated by the barbarians. I should, moreover, mention
+to you, for the information of the captain in question, that the
+intelligence I expect to be brought to me this day or to-morrow by two
+couriers I have sent to Tucupal, will decide whether I shall order an
+approach to be made to the before-mentioned encampment at the mouth of
+Leubu, where he proposes remaining, by a part of my troops, accompanied
+by the militia cavalry, hitherto occupied in conducting the cargo
+saved, with such more as it may be in my power to assemble. With this
+view, I repeat to you my greatest respect and esteem.
+
+                                     (_Signed_) GERONIMO ST. VALENZUELA.
+
+  His Britannic Majesty’s Consul,
+     H. W. Rouse, Esq.
+
+
+           _List of Officers on board His Majesty’s late Ship
+                              Challenger._
+
+  MICHAEL SEYMOUR, _Captain_.
+  HECTOR TAUSE, _First Lieutenant_.
+  WALTER J. COLLINS, _Second Lieutenant_.
+  WILLIAM K. STEPHENS, _Third Lieutenant_.
+  G. A. ROTHERY, _Supernumerary Lieutenant_.
+  JOHN M’DONALD, _Master_.
+  J. P. SARJEANT, _Purser_.
+  JOHN A. MOULD, _Acting Surgeon_.
+  JOHN W. LANE, _Assistant Surgeon_.
+  G. HORWOOD, _Acting Second Master_.
+  R. HOOPS, _Mate_.
+  A. S. BOOTH, _Mate_.
+  R. C. H. GORDON, _Midshipman_.
+  F. HOWARD VYSE, _Ditto_.
+  EDWARD CROUCH, _Ditto_.
+  ROGER L. CURTIS, _Ditto_.
+  JAMES H. LUSCOMBE, _Ditto_.
+  J. JAGOE, _Clerk_.
+  ---- FRY, _Supernumerary Clerk_.
+  J. PARKER, _Master’s Assistant_.
+  R. READ, _Ditto_.
+  L. W. PEYTON, _Volunteer_.
+  G. F. DAY, _Ditto_.
+  ALEX. BARCLAY, _Carpenter_.
+  J. WALKER, _Gunner_.
+  W. WARREN, _Boatswain_.
+
+
+                               THE END.
+
+
+                                LONDON:
+                      Printed by A. SPOTTISWOODE,
+                          New-Street-Square.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] Balls, about the size of a billiard ball, attached with a string;
+used in warfare, and for the purpose of killing game.
+
+
+
+
+  TRANSCRIBER’S NOTE
+
+  Obvious typographical errors and punctuation errors have been
+  corrected after careful comparison with other occurrences within
+  the text and consultation of external sources.
+
+  Some hyphens in words have been silently removed, some added,
+  when a predominant preference was found in the original book.
+
+  Except for those changes noted below, all misspellings in the text,
+  and inconsistent or archaic usage, have been retained.
+
+  Page 16. “ariticles” replaced by “articles”.
+  Page 16. “beech” replaced by “beach”.
+  Page 21. “Tucapal” replaced by “Tucapel”.
+  Page 67. “punblo” replaced by “pueblo”.
+  Page 96. “abo t” replaced by “about”.
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 77171 ***
diff --git a/77171-h/77171-h.htm b/77171-h/77171-h.htm
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..dd16282
--- /dev/null
+++ b/77171-h/77171-h.htm
@@ -0,0 +1,4809 @@
+<!DOCTYPE html>
+<html lang="en">
+<head>
+    <meta charset="UTF-8">
+    <title>
+      A diary of the wreck of His Majesty's ship Challenger, on the western coast of South America, in May, 1835 | Project Gutenberg
+    </title>
+    <link rel="icon" href="images/cover.jpg" type="image/x-cover">
+    <style>
+body {
+  margin-left: 10%;
+  margin-right: 10%;
+}
+
+h1,
+h2 {
+  text-align: center; /* all headings centered */
+  font-weight: normal;
+  clear: both;
+}
+
+h1 {
+  font-size: 100%;
+}
+
+h2 {
+  font-size: 150%;
+}
+
+p {
+  text-indent: 1em;
+  margin-top: 0.51em;
+  text-align: justify;
+  margin-bottom: 0.49em;
+}
+
+.p15 {
+  margin-top: 1.5em;
+}
+
+.p2 {
+  margin-top: 2em;
+}
+.p4 {
+  margin-top: 4em;
+}
+
+.pad1 {
+  padding-left: 1em;
+}
+.pad2 {
+  padding-left: 2em;
+}
+.pad6 {
+  padding-left: 6em;
+}
+
+.fs150 {
+  font-size: 150%;
+}
+.fs120 {
+  font-size: 120%;
+}
+.fs90 {
+  font-size: 90%;
+}
+.fs80 {
+  font-size: 80%;
+}
+.fs70 {
+  font-size: 70%;
+}
+.fs60 {
+  font-size: 60%;
+}
+.lsp2 {
+  letter-spacing: 0.25em;
+}
+.bold {
+  font-weight: bold;
+}
+.noindent {
+  text-indent: 0em;
+}
+
+.corr {
+  text-decoration: none;
+  border-bottom: thin dashed blue;
+}
+.x-ebookmaker .corr {
+  text-decoration: none;
+  border-bottom: none;
+}
+
+hr {
+  width: 33%;
+  margin-top: 2em;
+  margin-bottom: 2em;
+  margin-left: 33.5%;
+  margin-right: 33.5%;
+  clear: both;
+}
+
+hr.chap {
+  width: 65%;
+  margin-left: 17.5%;
+  margin-right: 17.5%;
+}
+@media print {
+  hr.chap {
+    display: none;
+    visibility: hidden;
+  }
+}
+
+hr.r25 {
+  width: 25%;
+  margin-top: 1em;
+  margin-bottom: 1em;
+  margin-left: 37.5%;
+  margin-right: 37.5%;
+}
+
+div.chapter {
+  page-break-before: always;
+}
+h2.nobreak {
+  page-break-before: avoid;
+}
+
+table {
+  margin-left: auto;
+  margin-right: auto;
+}
+table.autotable {
+  border-collapse: collapse;
+}
+table.autotable td {
+  padding: 0.25em;
+}
+
+.tdr {
+  text-align: right;
+}
+
+.pagenum {
+  /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */
+  /*  visibility: hidden;  */
+  color: #a9a9a9;
+  position: absolute;
+  left: 92%;
+  font-size: small;
+  text-align: right;
+  font-style: normal;
+  font-weight: normal;
+  font-variant: normal;
+  text-indent: 0;
+} /* page numbers */
+
+.blockquot {
+  margin-left: 5%;
+  margin-right: 10%;
+}
+
+.center {
+  text-align: center;
+  text-indent: 0;
+}
+
+.right {
+  text-align: right;
+}
+
+.smcap {
+  font-variant: small-caps;
+}
+
+.allsmcap {
+  font-variant: small-caps;
+  text-transform: lowercase;
+}
+
+/* Images */
+
+img {
+  max-width: 100%;
+  height: auto;
+}
+img.w100 {
+  width: 100%;
+}
+
+.figcenter {
+  margin: auto;
+  text-align: center;
+  page-break-inside: avoid;
+  max-width: 100%;
+}
+
+/* Footnotes */
+.footnotes {
+  border: 1px dashed;
+}
+
+.footnote {
+  margin-left: 10%;
+  margin-right: 10%;
+  font-size: 0.9em;
+}
+
+.footnote .label {
+  position: absolute;
+  right: 84%;
+  text-align: right;
+}
+
+.fnanchor {
+  vertical-align: super;
+  font-size: 0.8em;
+  text-decoration: none;
+}
+
+
+/* Transcriber's notes */
+.transnote {
+  background-color: #e6e6fa;
+  color: black;
+  font-size: small;
+  padding: 0.5em;
+  margin-bottom: 5em;
+  font-family: sans-serif, serif;
+}
+
+.gothic {
+  font-family: Blackletter, Fraktur, Textur, "Old English Text MT", "Olde English Mt", "Olde English", Diploma, England, Gothic, serif;
+}
+
+.w80 {
+  width: 80%;
+}
+.illowp100 {width: 100%;}
+
+    </style>
+</head>
+<body>
+<div style='text-align:center'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 77171 ***</div>
+<div class="transnote">
+TRANSCRIBER’S NOTE
+
+<p>Some minor changes to the text are noted at the <a href="#transnote">end of the book</a>.
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i002" style="max-width: 50em;">
+  <a href="images/i002.jpg"><img class="w100" src="images/i002.jpg" alt="An encampment on the coast of Molguilla, Chili"></a>
+  <figcaption><p class="center">ENCAMPMENT AT MOLGUILLA, CHILI.</p>
+<p class="noindent fs70">
+On stone by W. Walton
+</p>
+<p class="noindent">
+A. <i>Wreck of H. M. Ship Challenger</i>
+<span class="pad1">B. <i>Tent for the Chilenos from Arauco</i></span>
+<span class="pad1">C. <i>Tent put up for Cheuquante’s Indians</i></span>
+<span class="pad1">D. <i>Ship’s Company Tent</i></span>
+<span class="pad1">E. <i>Tent for Capt<sup>n</sup>. & Officers</i></span>
+</p>
+<p class="fs70 right"><i>Printed by C Hullmandel</i></p>
+</figcaption>
+</figure>
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+
+<div id="Title" class="chapter">
+<h1>
+<span class="center fs70">A</span><br><br>
+<span class="center lsp2 bold fs150">DIARY</span><br><br>
+<span class="center fs70">OF</span><br><br>
+<span class="center">THE WRECK OF HIS MAJESTY’S SHIP</span><br><br>
+<span class="center lsp2 fs150 bold">CHALLENGER,</span><br><br>
+<span class="center fs80">ON THE</span><br><br>
+<span class="center fs80">WESTERN COAST OF SOUTH AMERICA,</span><br>
+<span class="center fs80 smcap">In May, 1835.</span></h1>
+<p class="center fs80 p4">WITH AN ACCOUNT OF</p>
+<p class="center fs80 p15">THE SUBSEQUENT ENCAMPMENT OF THE OFFICERS</p>
+<p class="center fs80">AND CREW,</p>
+<p class="center fs80 p15">DURING A PERIOD OF SEVEN WEEKS,</p>
+<p class="center fs80 p2">ON THE</p>
+<p class="center lsp2 bold fs120 p15">SOUTH COAST OF CHILI.</p>
+<hr class="r25" style="margin-top: 2em;">
+<p class="center p2">
+<span class="fs120">LONDON:</span><br>
+</p>
+<p class="center fs80">PRINTED FOR</p>
+<p class="center fs90">LONGMAN, REES, ORME, BROWN, GREEN, &amp; LONGMAN,</p>
+<p class="center fs80">PATERNOSTER-ROW.</p>
+<p class="center">1836.</p>
+</div>
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p class="center fs80">
+<span class="smcap">London</span>:<br>
+Printed by A. Spottiswoode,<br>
+New-Street-Square.<br>
+</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2 class="nobreak" style="font-size: 110%" id="DIRECTIONS_FOR_PLACING_THE_PLATES">DIRECTIONS FOR PLACING THE PLATES.</h2>
+</div>
+
+
+<table class="autotable w80">
+<tbody>
+<tr>
+<td>
+Encampment at Molquilla
+</td>
+<td class="tdr">
+<i>to face the <a href="#i002">Title</a></i>.
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>
+Molquilla Beach
+</td>
+<td class="tdr">
+<i>to face page</i> <a href="#i013">6</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>
+Plan of Molquilla Camp
+</td>
+<td class="tdr">
+<a href="#i039">30</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>
+View of the Leubu Camp
+</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href="#i109">98</a></td>
+</tr>
+</tbody>
+</table>
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="A_DIARY">
+<span class="center bold fs90">A DIARY</span><br>
+<span class="center fs60">OF</span><br>
+<span class="center fs80">THE WRECK OF HIS MAJESTY’S SHIP</span><br>
+<span class="center bold fs90">CHALLENGER.</span><br>
+</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p>On the first day of April, 1835, His Majesty’s
+ship Challenger sailed from Rio Janeiro for the
+Pacific, with orders to touch at the port of
+Concepçion in our way to Valparaiso, at which
+place we hoped either to find the commodore
+commanding on the western coasts of South
+America, or directions for our further proceedings.
+Valparaiso and Concepçion are the two
+principal seaports of the republic of Chili; the
+former being the most important, as receiving
+the great bulk of manufactures, and other numerous
+and various exports from Europe.</p>
+
+<p>The object of the Challenger’s calling at Concepçion,
+situated about 300 miles south of Valparaiso,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_2">[2]</span>
+and laying in the route of the latter
+port, was for the purpose of procuring a supply
+of wood and water, for which Concepçion offers
+peculiar facilities.</p>
+
+<p>The first part of our voyage was a series of
+calms, with light variable winds; and our progress
+to the southward was slow, until we reached
+the latitude of 31° south. We then began to
+experience fresh westerly and southerly winds,
+which, with little variation, continued until we
+had arrived in the vicinity of Cape Horn. Nothing
+had occurred worthy of notice, except that
+numerous flying-fish were seen as far south as the
+latitude of 40°. Off the Cape, in latitude 60°,
+after a short interval of calm, a number of what
+we only know by the name of black fish attracted
+our attention by the peculiarity of their movements,
+and the closeness of their approach to the
+ship; and we experienced a severe gale, which
+began in the south, and gradually veered to
+<span class="allsmcap">S.S.W.</span> and <span class="allsmcap">S.W.</span>, accompanied by an unusually
+high sea, with constant hail squalls.</p>
+
+<p><i>May 4.</i>—The wind blew violently from <span class="allsmcap">S.</span>
+and <span class="allsmcap">S.S.W.</span>, with a heavy sea and hard squalls
+of hail and snow. It was of consequence to
+draw the ship to the westward, and to this<span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">[3]</span>
+end we carried our close-reefed main-topsails
+and reefed foresail; the wind being about two
+points abaft the beam; the ship behaving remarkably
+well, but lurching deeply; and on one
+occasion she made so heavy a plunge, that a
+long lee sea came in over all, staving in the lee
+quarter gallery, moving the sheet-anchor, floating
+our spars in the lee channels, and actually
+wetting the legs of several persons who were
+securing their holdfast under the weather bulwarks.
+We looked on this as a hint to batten
+down our main-deck hatchways; to take the
+canvass off her; and, as night was closing in, the
+main-topsail and foresail were furled, and the
+ship eventually hove-to, under the fore and main-staysails;
+the latter having been, in our first
+attempt to set it, blown to leeward by the carrying
+away of our staysail stay. In this breeze
+a heavy sea struck the bows and cutwater,
+and with a most singular result, for it carried
+away the crown of our figure-head from the
+forehead upwards; and the ominous remark of
+the person who reported the circumstance to
+the officer of the watch was, “Sir, she has lost
+her brains.” The weather continued stormy,
+with heavy squalls of hail, with little intermission,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">[4]</span>
+till the 6th and 7th of May; when we experienced
+a severe gale off the entrance of the
+Straits of Magellan, and under the double-reefed
+courses, which was as much sail as the masts
+and yards would bear; and, in a long high sea,
+the good qualities of the ship called forth the
+undivided praise of all on board.</p>
+
+<p><i>May 17.</i>—In latitude 41°, and longitude
+80° 43′ <span class="allsmcap">W.</span>, the weather appeared to have undergone
+a change for the better. The barometer,
+which had been for several weeks very low, now
+rose to the height usually shown on the coasts of
+Peru, and the northern parts of the coast of
+Chili; and many were the mutual congratulations
+exchanged on board, on our having at length got
+into fine moderate weather, securing, as we conceived
+the ultimate object in view, that of arriving
+at the port of Concepçion, then only two
+days’ sail in distance from us. Good observations
+were obtained on this day, the results of which
+were found to agree closely with our estimation
+as shown by the dead reckoning. The topgallant
+masts were sent aloft, together with the
+studding-sail booms, and a variety of gear, which,
+during our stormy weather, had been sent on deck
+to relieve the masts and ship; and all the necessary<span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">[5]</span>
+sail was made in the direction of our destined
+port. The wind <span class="allsmcap">S.W.</span>; the course steered <span class="allsmcap">N.N.E.</span></p>
+
+<p><i>May 18.</i>—The weather became thick, with
+a fresh wind. The 19th produced little change,
+except that we were enabled to get a good set of
+sights of the sun for our chronometers, by which,
+with our latitude by dead reckoning, we worked
+out our longitude, the correctness of which we
+had no reason whatever to doubt. At noon Concepçion
+bore from us <span class="allsmcap">N.</span> 52°, 41° <span class="allsmcap">E.</span>, 146 miles.
+At 5 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> the ship was hove-to, the chain cables
+bent, and the usual preparation made on approaching
+an anchorage. The deep-sea lead
+was tried in upwards of 200 fathoms, but without
+striking soundings. Sail was again made in
+the ship, treble-reefed topsails, courses, and fore-topmast
+staysail.</p>
+
+<p>At 8 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>, after a careful examination of
+the ship’s place on the charts, directions were
+given to haul the ship to the wind on the larboard
+tack. This was done at about 10 minutes
+after 8 o’clock, and it allowed her to lay along
+shore, <span class="allsmcap">N.</span> half <span class="allsmcap">E.</span>, the wind being about <span class="allsmcap">W.N.W.</span>,
+reducing her rate of going to about four knots;
+at which pace it was proposed to allow her to
+continue, until daylight permitted us to bear up,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">[6]</span>
+and again make sail for our destination, Talcuhuana
+Bay, the anchorage of Concepçion. The
+weather at this time was still hazy, the wind
+moderate, the water smooth, and stars appearing
+occasionally overhead, with an expected moon
+at midnight, promising us a quiet fine night: but
+the Almighty had ordered it otherwise, and a
+most awful and perilous shipwreck awaited us.</p>
+
+<p>At about 9 45′ <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>, the look-out men having
+been visited but a few minutes before, breakers
+were seen at the same moment by them and the
+officer of the watch, who also remarked a new
+and peculiar motion in the movement of the
+ship. The helm was instantly put down, and
+the watch hurried to their stations to tack the
+ship; the captain, calling for the hands to be
+turned up as he flew upon deck, and as the ship
+had answered the helm though rising to a very
+high sea, and was coming round, hauled the
+after-yards. Orders were given to stand by the
+anchors; but almost immediately afterwards the
+order “to keep fast the anchors,” and haul the
+head-yards. In accomplishing this latter operation
+a high surf struck the bows; the ship, lifting
+to the heavy swell, got sternway, and struck with
+a dreadful crash, her keel taking the rocks about<span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">[7]</span>
+midships: another sea followed, which threw her
+on her starboard beam-ends, the surf at the same
+time breaking over and into the ship with a force
+sufficient to wash the men from the decks. Most
+miraculously, however, no serious accident now
+occurred, nor was any greater injury sustained
+than by the men at the helm, who were thrown
+over the wheel, and severely bruised. We were
+now at the mercy of the heaviest surf it is possible
+to conceive; the ship labouring in a most
+fearful manner, falling over on either broadside,
+and righting herself as the weight and force of
+the sea affected her; and the warning orders were
+reiterated to hold on, and keep out of the way
+of the masts, which were every moment expected
+to fall. The masts, however, stood, though
+many of the loftier back-stays, stay, and braces,
+came down, but, fortunately, without injury to
+any one.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i013" style="max-width: 50em;">
+  <a href="images/i013.jpg"><img class="w100" src="images/i013.jpg" alt="Map showing placement of a wreck near a coast."></a>
+  <figcaption><p></p>
+
+<div style="float: right">
+<p class="center">
+<span class="fs120 lsp2">MOLGUILLA BEACH</span>,<br>
+<i>shewing the Wreck of</i><br>
+<span class="gothic">H.M.S. Challenger</span>.<br>
+<i>on the West Coast of South America in</i><br>
+Latitude 37° 49′ S.<br>
+Longitude 73° 34′ W.<br>
+<i>Wrecked on May 19<sup>th</sup> 1835 at 9.45 P.M.</i><br>
+<i class="fs90">Rise of Tide about 2 feet but much depends<br>
+on the state of the Weather and Wind at Sea.</i>
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="noindent pad6">Reference to Plan</p>
+<ol style="text-align: left; max-width: 50%">
+<li><i>Ship standing in on a wind, on larboard tack head N.N.E. (true).</i></li>
+<li><i>Ship stayed head S.S.W. when the first breaker struck her.</i></li>
+<li><i>Position when she first struck head S.S.E.</i></li>
+<li><i>Supposed situation when the mizen mast was cut away, the Ship having
+been thrown over a sunken ledge of rocks into 6 feet water sandy bottom
+the surf breaking over larboard side with great violence.</i></li>
+<li><i>Ship at daylight on the 20<sup>th</sup> when the Jollyboat left with the lead line.</i></li>
+<li><i>Situation when abandoned on the 7<sup>th</sup> June, buried 9 feet in the sand.<br>
+The flat staff on the Leubu Head bore from Tucapel Point N b E (true) about 15 miles.</i></li>
+</ol>
+</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>A few minutes had been sufficient to place us
+in this most frightful and truly awful situation;
+a situation requiring the greatest degree of firmness,
+as well as promptitude of action. A thick
+dense fog, which hung on the water, gave us no
+warning of the silent and terrible rollers; the
+first of which, on being discovered, launched us<span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">[8]</span>
+amongst the breakers, which were now roaring
+with fury around us, drenching to the skin every
+individual on the deck as they broke with violence
+into the ship. The brilliancy of the surf
+and spray, added to the sad and gloomy character
+of the night, made our frightful situation the more
+apparent; and, for a considerable interval of time,
+so heavily did the ship continue to strike, that it
+appeared impossible for any human power to
+prevent her from going to pieces, or to conceal
+from ourselves the appalling prospect of a watery
+grave for every soul on board.</p>
+
+<p>By the important decision of keeping fast the
+anchors, and cutting away the mizzen-mast, the
+ship appeared to be relieved abaft, and to be
+thrown over rocks into what we fancied to be a
+shoal; whereas; if she had been at all checked
+by an anchor, all must have perished on the spot
+where she struck. A heavy surf continued to
+roll in on us, the spray breaking high over us on
+the decks: the hand-leads, however, satisfied us
+that we were on sand, through which the weight
+of the sea was forcing the ship; and, as she providentially
+took up a position with her bow to
+the surf, hope began to dawn amongst us of the
+ship’s holding together, and hence a chance for<span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">[9]</span>
+the safety of our lives, when daylight should
+assist us in discovering the means of attempting
+it. Another danger had also excited our apprehensions,
+from an appearance of dark water
+astern of us, inside the surf, apparently rendering
+it indispensable to drop our anchors to hold
+the ship on the sand, to avoid foundering in
+deep water: for we had become aware of the
+impossibility of keeping her afloat, as she had
+been seriously bilged about midships, the tanks
+and chain cables rising to the lower deck as the
+ship worked in the sand in which she was now
+embedded. The leads, however, continuing to
+assure us that she still bedded with tolerable
+firmness, the anchors were kept fast; the prudence
+and good fortune of which step daylight
+fully disclosed to us. On her first striking
+amongst the breakers, the rudder was carried
+away, the gun-room beams and cabin deck forced
+up, and a vast body of water coming in astern
+flooded the gun-room and lower deck: many of
+the timbers on the starboard side were heard to
+break with a fearful crash.</p>
+
+<p>The excellent conduct and good discipline of
+all on board, in this extremity of danger, merited
+the highest praise. Although every heart must<span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">[10]</span>
+have felt the hopelessness of our situation, there
+was evinced that steady attention to the orders
+which were given, free from confusion or the
+slightest disobedience. How frequently did we
+afterwards remark on the fatal result that must
+inevitably have followed any rash attempt which,
+under the influence of terror, might have been
+made, to quit the wreck, and, I trust, with feelings
+of humble thankfulness to the providential
+mercy which had thus far preserved and directed
+us.</p>
+
+<p>The main-deck ports had been caulked in for
+our voyage round Cape Horn, and had fortunately
+not been started. The main-deck hatchways
+were battened down; but it was necessary
+to scuttle the lower deck, from the quantity of
+water taken in over all. From the drawing of
+the ship through the sand, the hand-pumps constantly
+going, enabled us to keep her sufficiently
+free to allow us to get up a considerable quantity
+of dry biscuit, which was put into some of our
+empty water-casks: some ball-cartridges were
+also got up, and placed in the dryest situation
+on the main-deck. Yet, at this time, so slender
+was the hope of saving ourselves, or any thing
+belonging to us, that the ship’s accounts, with a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">[11]</span>
+private packet or two, were secured in a cask, to
+be thrown overboard, with the chance of its
+reaching the shore, and telling the fate of the
+poor Challenger.</p>
+
+<p>Towards midnight, some officers and men
+thought they perceived land astern; and, on the
+starboard quarter, many were the eyes which
+eagerly sought out a gleam for their deliverance.
+We now attempted, by means of blue
+lights and rockets thrown in the direction, to
+ascertain the existence of land, but without success.
+The moon having at length risen, we, at
+about 2 30′ <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>, after anxiously watching the
+dispersion of some heavy clouds, got sufficient
+moonlight to make certain the sight of land.
+Those who witnessed that moment will long remember
+the joy and emotion which it gave rise
+to; for the horrors of the preceding four hours
+had been surcharged with the torturing apprehension
+of lingering death. Dark and desponding
+must be that mind which, at such a crisis,
+could not derive some solace in the hope of succour
+from that omnipotent Being, who governs
+the storm, and alone has the power to save.</p>
+
+<p>The weather continued dark and gloomy,
+with occasional drizzling rain, but little wind,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">[12]</span>
+though squally-looking clouds were passing rapidly
+over our heads—a high irregular surf
+breaking on all sides around us with a noise and
+roar not to be forgotten. The dangerous nature
+of the surf made it evident that no common
+boat could pass through it in safety; and the
+ship having become, in a measure, less laboursome,
+the jolly-boat and gig were prepared as
+life-boats by lashing to them small boats’ breakers
+and spars, to be ready for use on the return of
+daylight.</p>
+
+<p><i>May 20.</i>—At daylight the shore presented a
+long, low, flat sandy beach, with a tremendous
+surf rolling in on it, extending to the southward
+a distance interminable to the eye; in the <span class="allsmcap">W.N.W.</span>
+direction an elevated promontory of land extended
+out to the westward, with a reef of scattered
+rocks, distant from us between two and
+three miles. To land the crew was the first object
+to which our attention was directed. The
+only mode to effect this appeared to be by succeeding
+in establishing a means of communication
+by a rope, or hawser, whence to raft the
+crew from the ship to the beach, the nearest distance
+to which was about two cable-lengths.
+With this view the jolly-boat was lowered over<span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">[13]</span>
+the stern into the surf under the charge of Mr.
+A. Booth, mate, and a volunteer crew of seven
+men; and, after a long struggle, they succeeded
+in reaching the beach with the end of the deep
+sea lead-line; but, owing to the strong set of the
+current along shore to the southward, the spot on
+which they landed was at least half a mile distant
+from that part of the beach immediately astern and
+nearest the ship. The jolly-boat was no sooner
+washed upon the beach, than the crew, thoroughly
+drenched, began the labour of endeavouring to
+tauten the line in the direction astern of the ship;
+but, after many fruitless attempts to do so, it was
+evident to us on board that a second boat, with
+more assistance, was absolutely necessary to effect
+this object. The bite of the line was much
+checked by the current and masses of shifting
+sand, caused by the immense back-set off the
+beach. It was now the gig was launched over
+the stern by means of the spanker-boom, rigged
+as a derick, and secured to the stump of the
+mizzen-mast, with a topping lift to the mainmasthead,
+and hung ready to drop at a favourable
+moment into the surf: she was the captain’s
+gig, and considered to possess qualities likely to
+ensure equal success with the boat that had<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">[14]</span>
+already reached the shore, being carefully fitted
+in a similar manner.</p>
+
+<p>Into the gig went Mr. Gordon, midshipman,
+a most zealous volunteer, who had anxiously
+sought the dangerous attempt of going in the
+first boat: with him were six volunteer seamen.
+One of the six, serving his time on board for
+having been a smuggler, and possessed of great
+activity and strength, was placed in the charge
+and management of the steer-oar, the nature of
+the surf rendering a rudder useless. On leaving
+the stern of the ship, cheered by all on board,
+they passed over a roller or two in security, and
+the superior management of the steer-oar appeared
+to promise certain success. But, alas!
+another and another terrific roller followed, the
+gig broached-to, was instantly capsised, and
+whirled over and over. This heartrending sight
+again damped the hopes of all; and what added
+to the cruel and distressing situation of those
+in the ship, was the impossibility of rendering
+the least assistance to our poor shipmates, now
+struggling with death in the dangerous surf.
+Most anxiously were our glasses directed to the
+spot, when occasionally, as they drifted to the
+southward, their heads were at moments visible.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">[15]</span></p>
+
+<p>By this melancholy accident perished Mr. Gordon,
+a most excellent young man, possessed of
+every quality to fit him for the highest station in
+his profession. He was much esteemed by his
+captain, not only for his efficiency, but for his
+many estimable qualities. He was greatly beloved
+by his brother shipmates, and much regretted
+by all. John Edwards, an excellent
+seaman, was also lost by this sad event. Their
+bodies were never found, and were supposed to
+have either been carried out to sea by the back-set,
+or buried in the sand. The others of the
+crew of the gig were taken out of the water by
+the crew of the jolly-boat, nearly exhausted, and
+more than three quarters of a mile to the southward.</p>
+
+<p>At about 6 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> this morning (20th), a ship
+was discovered through the haze about three
+or four miles outside the breakers, standing in
+for the land. Seeing the danger of her situation,
+one of the after main-deck ports was
+opened, two guns fired as a signal to her, and
+an ensign hoisted to the main-topmast crosstrees,
+with the union downwards: she tacked,
+and stood off, hoisting Swedish colours. The
+rollers broke outside us, to a distance of at least<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">[16]</span>
+a mile and a quarter, and it was impossible for
+her to render us any assistance: little doubt existed
+amongst us, that we were the hapless beacon
+of her danger: another hour’s dark might
+have placed her alongside us.</p>
+
+<p>A three and a half inch hawser had, after
+much labour, been dragged to the beach: we
+had now constructed two rafts, by lashing on
+empty casks strong cross spars, yards, and mess
+tables; and about 11 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> it was determined to
+try the first by sending a lieutenant and seven
+men, a kedge-anchor, a stout hawser, and a
+hawling line, which reached the shore with difficulty,
+far to the southward, and was thrown so
+high on the beach, and so shaken, that she could
+not again be launched this day. About 2 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>
+the second raft was hoisted over, and, with the
+first lieutenant, assistant surgeon, captain’s clerk,
+several of the junior midshipmen, who were
+secured to the raft by life lines, and thirteen
+seamen, making a total in number of nineteen
+persons, were successful in landing in safety.
+The weight and draft of this raft, from its load
+(having, in addition to the passengers, several
+<ins class="corr" id="TN-1" title="Transcriber's Note&mdash;original text: ariticles">articles</ins> of provisions and arms), made the operation
+of getting a footing on the <ins class="corr" id="TN-2" title="Transcriber's Note&mdash;original text: beech">beach</ins>, from<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">[17]</span>
+the back set of the surf; a critical one; and
+it was on this occasion that a small body of
+Indians, on horses, many of whom had been
+first seen approaching from the hills soon after
+daylight, dashed into the water, and with their
+lazos assisted the landing of those on it. One
+of the most active of the party was an Indian
+woman.</p>
+
+<p>Our kedge anchor was now buried, and the
+stout hawser hauled on board, and hove taut,
+and an attempt to make a second trip with the
+last raft; but it was upset in the surf, under the
+stern, and one seaman who had jumped upon it
+was a long time in great peril of being washed
+off it, whilst it drifted back to the beach, the slip
+rope which had attached it to the hawser, by
+which it had been hove off, having parted. At
+3 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> the ship appeared to have neared the
+shore, and it was determined to lash some stout
+spars to the cutter, and launch her. She landed
+safely, though nearly filled with water, having
+conveyed on shore officers, seamen, and marines,
+to the number of thirteen. It was now nearly
+dusk, and the whole number landed scarcely
+exceeded fifty persons. All hands were greatly
+exhausted, from fatigue both of mind and body,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">[18]</span>
+were drenched with wet, and required rest. The
+comfortless situation of those on shore, on a
+barren sand, wet through, with scanty refreshment,
+and a bitter cold frosty night, may be
+imagined; great anxiety also existing as to the
+fate of their shipmates on board. A watch was
+kept on the beach throughout the night, whilst
+others got shelter under the rafts, and on the
+side of a mound of sand, at some little distance.
+To those in the ship an equal share of excessive
+fatigue and mental anxiety had rendered rest
+from labour most necessary. The ship continued
+buried in the sand, and was comparatively quiet,
+although at intervals labouring, and feeling most
+sensibly the weighty shocks of the unceasing
+rollers. A watch attended throughout the night
+to observe the lead lines; the anchors were kept
+ready in the event of its being found necessary
+to drop them, in order to retain the ship’s bows in
+their position towards the rollers; and the pumps
+kept working. Much had been done during the
+past day not yet mentioned: the danger as well
+as difficulty of communication with the shore had
+occasioned a vast quantity of the bedding and
+clothes of the crew to be thrown overboard,
+attached to pieces of spars, which, on being<span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">[19]</span>
+washed on shore, were received by those on the
+beach. In addition to these articles were casks
+filled with bread, casks of salt pork, and a great
+number and variety of other things. Amongst
+these a quantity of segars, which had been put
+into empty bottles and securely corked, were
+washed up in good condition.</p>
+
+<p>Captain Seymour had hastily written a letter
+to His Majesty’s consul at Concepçion, from
+which place we hoped we were not very distant,
+of which the assistant surgeon, who spoke a
+little Spanish, and the clerk of the Challenger,
+had volunteered to be the bearers. They had
+landed in the second raft; and to find a fit person
+to conduct these gentlemen, in an unknown
+country, through thick woods, across rivers,
+along roads in places almost impassable, was an
+object of the greatest interest and importance,
+and which the suspicious countenances of the
+Indians, who had become numerous around us,
+and to whom we could not make ourselves
+understood, afforded little promise of accomplishing.
+By a most providential circumstance
+Camilo Hermosillo, a Spanish Chilino from the
+neighbourhood of the frontier town of Arauco,
+had come to the southward to purchase cattle,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">[20]</span>
+and hearing of a wreck, had accompanied an
+Indian cacique to the spot of our misfortune.
+This honest man gave the clue to all our future
+correspondence.</p>
+
+<p>After much negotiation, and being piqued on
+his Castilian blood, and with fair promises of
+reward, Camilo undertook to become the guide,
+and procure the horses necessary for a journey
+to Concepçion. We were indebted to the zealous
+exertions of Mr. Sarjeant, the purser, for our
+success, which is to be attributed, in a great
+measure, to his perfect knowledge of the Spanish
+language and character.</p>
+
+<p>From Camilo we obtained the first outline of
+our situation. We were informed that the name
+of the spot on which we were wrecked was Molquilla,
+in the province of Arauco, sixty leagues
+south of Concepçion, and about thirty-five miles
+from the island of Mocha; and by observations
+afterwards taken on shore with our artificial horizon,
+in latitude 37° 48′ 48″ south, and longitude
+73° 34′ 30″ west. It lies at the extreme
+southern verge of that portion of the Araucanian
+Indian territory in which the Indians tacitly
+acknowledge the authority of the Chilian government;
+and under its influence the caciques<span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">[21]</span>
+had, for the previous twelve months, been carrying
+on a war of extermination against the more
+southern Indians of <ins class="corr" id="TN-3" title="Transcriber's Note&mdash;original text: Tucapal">Tucapel</ins>, Tercia, and Imperial.
+We also learnt that, on the 20th of February
+last, the city of Concepçion had been
+totally destroyed by an earthquake, since which
+shocks had been continually felt upon the coast
+in the vicinity, and of which we had soon experience.
+The position on the beach where the
+landing had been made was described as untenable;
+and it was recommended to take the
+highest elevation that the small sand-hills on
+the extensive flat around us afforded, as a security
+from the rising of the sea, which in three
+days after rose far above the spot on which our
+first communication with Camilo took place, and
+level with the base of the small sand-hill of
+scarcely ten feet elevation on which we were
+encamped.</p>
+
+<p>With the assistance of the Indian cacique,
+horses were procured; and with the greatest
+satisfaction we saw from the ship our two shipmates,
+with their guide, at half past four, depart
+on their journey to Concepçion, the Indians
+retiring to the hills on the approach of dusk.
+In the ship, six larboard after-main-deck guns<span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">[22]</span>
+had been thrown overboard to counteract an
+inclination which she had to fall over on her
+larboard broadside, the fore-topmast cut away,
+and the main-topmast struck, and the sails cut
+from the yards, and sent on deck ready to transport
+to the shore for tents.</p>
+
+<p><i>May 21.</i>—At daylight all hands were labouring
+hard in working the rafts between the shore
+and the ship. So powerfully had the surf acted
+on the hull of the ship during the night, that she
+was forced one half the distance that we had
+been, on the 20th, nearer the beach; and hence
+our future operations, though still harassing
+from the breaking in of the surf, were rendered
+free from danger. The weather proving fine,
+the sick were landed during the morning: we
+had three in cots, who were hoisted over the
+stern, and secured on a heap of bedding and
+casks sufficiently high to prevent more than a
+little spray from reaching them. They were
+carried up to the mound of sand on which the
+choice had fallen as the site of our camp. Numerous
+Indians came from the neighbouring hills
+to reconnoitre us, with the Cacique Cheuquante,
+with a considerable retinue of them and a Spanish
+interpreter, offering assistance against the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">[23]</span>
+southern Indians, of whom they evinced a great
+dread. Although the disinterestedness of these
+offers were prudently estimated, policy enjoined
+address and conciliation to cultivate their confidence
+and good opinion; and the captain, who
+had observed the increase of Indians, landed
+about 2 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> to organise the crew and construct
+a camp, and keeping in view these considerations,
+accepted the services of a few as look-out men.</p>
+
+<p>A large tent was erected on the mound of
+sand for the crew, composed of two topsails, a
+main course, and some studding sails, and near it
+a smaller one for the captain and officers. Into
+this latter tent were conveyed all the small arms
+which had been landed, cutlasses, pikes, and
+some ball cartridges, together with any other
+articles, which time and labour had allowed us
+to collect and bring up for the night. The spot
+on which we had fixed for our encampment was
+distant from the wreck about half a mile: the
+beach, which we learnt was about forty-five miles
+in extent, formed the line of sea boundary to the
+swampy, sandy marsh, in which was situated the
+mound which held our camp. This flat extended
+inland to a chain of irregular hills, distant four
+or five miles, on which were visible patches of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">[24]</span>
+trees and underwood. From these hills ran, in
+the direction of the sea, a small stream of good
+fresh water, which passed immediately at the
+base of the mound on which we were encamped.
+This stream proved to us a blessing of inestimable
+value, for our stock of water on board had
+become damaged soon after our misfortune, from
+the overflowing of the sea-water into the tanks;
+and to have sent to any distance for water, in our
+increasing apprehension of the conduct of the
+Indians, would have added much to our embarrassment.
+Before the night had closed in on
+the 21st, we had, by the construction of tents,
+secured a tolerable shelter for all who were on
+shore. An officer, with an appointed number
+of men, remained on board the wreck to attend
+to the working of the pumps, the tautening of
+the hawsers, and to watch the labouring of the
+hull, the surf continuing to roll in with its
+usual overpowering force, the noise of which on
+shore, during the night, was quite stunning.
+The weather throughout the day had been tolerably
+fine, the wind moderate from the <span class="allsmcap">N.W.</span>, and
+the night threatened to be cold and frosty. On
+the approach of night, the Indians, who had
+been numerous, moved off in various directions<span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">[25]</span>
+towards the hills: they usually came in the
+morning, in groups, on horseback and on foot,
+from six to eight in a party, making the shortest
+route to our camp which the standing pools of
+water, which were numerous, would allow.</p>
+
+<p>Before the crew were permitted to partake of
+any refreshment, the arms were distributed to
+be dried, cleaned, and prepared for use, and all
+were cautioned as to their conduct to be observed
+towards the Indians. The scene of our
+encampment on this night it is not in the power
+of any one to imagine, who was not witness to it.
+The exhaustion from incessant labour throughout
+the day was evident in all; not an article of
+clothing or bedding had reached the shore, without
+having experienced the drenching effects of
+the surf, and the heaps of innumerable articles
+that were scattered on all sides, formed a melancholy
+contrast to our customary order and regularity
+in our poor lost ship. Bounded in our rear
+by a marsh, which the rainy season, now at hand,
+would convert into a lake; the ocean in our
+front, rising occasionally within little more than
+a hundred yards of our camp, and from which
+the effects of an earthquake, (slight, indeed,
+compared to that which so recently occurred at<span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">[26]</span>
+Talcahuana, where the sea rose thirty feet,) might
+have swept us away; and the probability of a visit
+from the hostile southern Indians, who the preceding
+year had plundered of every article the
+unfortunate crews of four merchantmen, wrecked
+upon the coast, left us only the uncheering prospect
+of equivocal hospitality from our northern
+neighbours,—a barbarous race who murder the
+adults, and sell for slaves the infant children, of
+their captured enemies. Fires were made, and
+some salt pork cooked for our suppers; each also
+receiving an allowance of rum. A watch, consisting
+of an officer, a midshipman, and a proportion
+of the men under arms, was established
+for the night, and rest anxiously sought for on
+the sand under our canvass.</p>
+
+<p><i>May 22.</i>—Daylight saw all hands, who were
+not disabled from previous exhaustion, hard at
+work in tautening the hawsers from the wreck
+to the shore, working the pumps, and getting
+on shore our stream-anchor, which, after some
+difficulty, was buried in the sand, and backed
+with a gunslide: to it we bent the chain and
+hemp stream-cables, which were brought to the
+capstan on board; and, by keeping a strain on
+them, the hull continued, from the force of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">[27]</span>
+sea, and daily becoming lighter, to near the shore.
+We now worked hard to secure whatever provisions
+we could get at, spars and sails to strengthen
+our tents, and arms and ammunition for our
+protection against molestation on the part of the
+Indians.</p>
+
+<p>One of our nine-pounder long guns was also
+got up and pointed over the stern of the ship, so
+as to cover our camp, as well as give protection
+to the ship. The weather to-day was cold and
+frosty, with fog: the surf appeared to be forming
+a ridge of sand outside the bows of the ship; the
+hull at times working a good deal, particularly
+in her lower frame, the stanchions and bulkheads
+in the lower deck and holds having given
+way, and the chain-lockers displaced. She was
+in sand to the depth of eight or nine feet. The
+fore-yard was got over the side, and drifted to
+the beach. Many stores and provisions were
+collected, and taken to the encampment, with
+several articles of comfort, such as tea, which
+had escaped damp, wine, and cooking utensils;
+likewise the coppers for the ship’s company’s
+cooking.</p>
+
+<p>A party had erected another large tent for
+the captain and officers, their previous tent being<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">[28]</span>
+now appropriated to the warrant officers and
+stores. At one end of the officers’ tent was
+placed the dingy, now converted into a powder
+magazine. The state of our arms was particularly
+examined into in the course of the day,
+and the camp as much organised as circumstances
+had as yet permitted us. The Indians had been
+numerous throughout the day, but not unfriendly,
+and many exchanges had been made between
+them and the crew, of apples, fowls, and potatoes,
+for wet clothes, or any description of metal: still
+we were far from feeling easy about them, from
+their known savage and wild character. Several
+of the Cacique Cheuquante’s Indians arrived, with
+their long spears, and had collected close to us,
+as our accepted look-outs against their brethren
+the hostile Indians, who were in force beyond
+the neighbouring hills, but kept in check by an
+opposing party, under the influence of the government
+of Chili, in command of the Cacique
+Colissi. With Cheuquante’s Indians was the
+Spanish interpreter before mentioned,—Rafael
+Lobo, a half-bred Indian, who assumed an authority
+over them, and with whom we had afterwards
+much communication. A vast quantity
+of scattered articles was collected from the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">[29]</span>
+beach, and brought within the limits of our
+camp. An armed watch was at dusk placed
+round the tents, and twenty-five men, under the
+command of the second lieutenant, Mr. Collins,
+remained on board in charge of the wreck.</p>
+
+<p><i>May 23.</i>—began with fog, and moderate
+northerly wind. The operation of tautening the
+cables was attended to as the wreck continued
+to be forced farther on the beach. Several more
+of the main-deck guns having been thrown overboard,
+assisted this. To aid the landing heavy
+articles, the lower yards were secured with hanging
+lashings to the stern, and pointed towards
+the beach. On these were lashed cross spars;
+and eventually a rough platform was established,
+which proved of infinite utility in our operation
+of clearing the wreck. The chain-pumps were
+occasionally worked to get at the store-rooms and
+holds, which had become flooded as high as the
+situation of the hull in the sand allowed, the
+depth of water in the holds averaging from seven
+to nine feet. Cheuquante’s Indians had increased
+their number of spears to twenty-seven, and with
+them were a numerous body of straggling Indians,
+who had collected from all directions, in numbers
+exceeding our force. Some apprehension<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">[30]</span>
+was felt by the crew lest they might become
+victims to treachery. This immediately reached
+the captain’s ear, who, without loss of time,
+summoned the men and officers in camp around
+him, explained to them the better motives of the
+Indians, yet pointing out the propriety of observing
+distance with them, and that his orders
+would exclude them from communication with
+our camp; that his determination was to assume
+the best possible state of defence, and to maintain
+our position, in the event of an attack, until
+information might arrive from the consul at
+Concepçion, to govern our movements; and
+that, as British seamen, he felt confident they
+would show, by obedience and good conduct,
+their title to that character. This short and
+well-timed address dissipated their misgivings,
+and forcibly exemplified the general confidence
+which the mild exercise of authority is calculated
+to inspire. The men were satisfied, returned
+cheerfully to their tents, and their hardships
+and privations in camp, although extended
+to a period of seven weeks, never afterwards excited
+a murmur. The constant and laborious
+operation of landing the stores and provisions,
+the men being constantly wet through, from<span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">[31]</span>
+the breaking-in of the surf, may, at least by the
+naval reader, be comprehended: our exertions,
+however, enabled us to rely on our own resources
+for subsistence as well as defence. No sooner
+had we begun to examine our situation with reference
+to strengthen it, than Rafael Lobo expressed
+great apprehensions and alarm that an
+attack from the hostile Indians, or, as he termed
+them, “Enemigos” Indians, would be made
+upon us, and urgently advised our removing two
+leagues distant to the northward; for, said
+he, if we remained in our present position, they
+would have an advantage, from our exposed
+situation in a flat plain, and, to use his own
+meaning, the mounted Indians would ride over
+us. Captain Seymour consented, therefore, to
+send two officers with him, for the purpose of
+examining the ground; but the disadvantage of
+being at such a distance from the wreck was
+greater than any slight security that would be
+afforded us by changing our present position.
+He was therefore told by the captain his determination
+to defend the ground he now occupied;
+and with that view he proceeded to strengthen it
+by every means in his power.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i039" style="max-width: 50em;">
+  <a href="images/i039.jpg"><img class="w100" src="images/i039.jpg" alt="A plan showing the layout of structures in the camp."></a>
+  <figcaption><p class="center"><i>Plan of Molguilla Camp,
+showing the Position of the Crew under Arms.</i></p></figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>An offer was made to Rafael Lobo to put up<span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">[32]</span>
+a small tent, at a little distance south of our
+camp, for shelter for himself and his armed party
+of Indians, which was accepted. It may not be
+here misplaced to give a slight sketch of the history
+and character of the savages amongst whom
+it had been our fate to be thrown. The population
+of the province of Arauco in Chili is by
+far the most warlike in the whole of South
+America: all the valour and experience of the
+Spanish arms, in the days of their greatest glory,
+failed in their obstinate and repeated endeavours
+to subdue the Indians of Arauco, who have
+maintained their independence to the present
+day, and are denominated by the Spaniards
+“The unconquerable Araucanos.” A beautiful
+epic poem in the Spanish language, written by
+Don Alonso de Ervilla y Zunija, published in
+1590, describes the battles in which he was actively
+engaged. His descriptions of the wonderful
+valour and perseverance of those valiant
+Indians would appear exaggerated, did not their
+protracted and heroic resistance against the best
+men of Spain, at a period when every Spanish
+soldier was a hero, fully justify the truth of the
+narration. The greatest part of the Araucanos<span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">[33]</span>
+are, to the present day, engaged in a war of extermination
+with the Chilino Spaniards.</p>
+
+<p>The Araucano Indian is strong-built and active,
+with long shaggy dark hair hanging all round
+his head, as low as his shoulders; and when attacking
+an enemy, it is allowed partially to cover
+his face: his person is on these occasions frequently
+smeared over with mare’s blood. His
+legs are bare to the knees; he wears a kind of
+short loose drawers, made of Indian manufacture,
+with a poncho of the same material; rides
+a horse of poor appearance, but great capacity,
+with large spurs of iron, if he can get them,
+secured to his bare heel with hide straps; his
+stirrups are only large enough to admit his great
+toe. Under his poncho, round his waist, is a
+large knife, often as broad as an English billhook;
+a set of bolas<a id="FNanchor_1" href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a>; and attached to his saddle
+is his lasso. His spear is a long bamboo staff,
+with a sharp iron point on its end, which, from
+its length (twenty-five feet or more), is very flexible,
+and when in use is kept constantly moving,
+so that the eye of the adversary cannot discover
+the intended spot of thrust. The women are often<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">[34]</span>
+mounted in a similar manner, with the addition
+of a sort of wrapper round the upper part of
+the legs. Their cunning is very great. They
+are very dirty; and they appear, in point of civilisation,
+a most degraded race of savages. Their
+principal food is potatoes, sometimes a little
+meat, frequently the flesh of mares; and they
+eat many of the numerous kinds of nuts and
+berries which abound on the hills in the interior
+of their country. Salt is an article much in request
+amongst them. It was not uncommon to
+see a group of them squatted round a grass net
+of boiled potatoes, with a lump of rock-salt, which
+they constantly passed from mouth to mouth,
+round their circle, each taking a hearty suck. The
+surf continued heavy, and, at intervals, affected
+the wreck a good deal. The evening closed in
+with foggy damp weather: the arms were examined,
+and the watches on board, as well as in
+the camp, mustered preparatory for the night.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sunday, May 24.</i>—The necessary operation of
+heaving in on our stern-fasts was early attended
+to. The hull had, during the night, been labouring
+heavily, and was a good deal displaced from
+her position of yesterday: the wind was northerly,
+and the rollers broke so heavily, that the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">[35]</span>
+surf passed over its usual mark, and rolled far
+up towards the mound of sand on which we
+were encamped; moving the boats, and several
+articles which were laying, as was supposed, on
+a spot free from the approach of the surf. This
+day had been set apart as a day of rest; and we
+were about to make arrangements for performing
+divine service, when a party of horsemen were
+seen approaching from the direction of Arauco.
+They proved to be twelve men belonging to the
+militia established there, under the charge of
+Don Bernardino Hermosillo, a captain in that
+corps, who brought a letter for Captain Seymour
+from Mr. Jagoe, one of the officers despatched
+to Concepçion, reporting their progress, and that
+every facility would be given in the further
+course of their destination. It appeared that
+our shipmates were received at Arauco with great
+kindness by the Chilian authorities, who immediately
+ordered to Molquillo (the place of wreck)
+the above party, with a view, as the Spanish despatch
+of Don José Bustermente to the minister
+of the interior afterwards expressed, “to prevent
+robbery and extortion, and to advise and
+aid in resisting any attack that the Indians might
+be induced to make from the attraction this misfortune<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">[36]</span>
+might present to them for pillage.” To
+send a force capable of ensuring protection to
+us was not in their power. This party was accompanied
+by the Cacique Pinoleo, his wife and
+daughter, with an escort of several Indians, all
+mounted; he presented the captain with a small
+ox, supposing us to be straitened for provisions.
+We offered them a little rum and water,
+and biscuit; and, after a long interview, the
+cacique and party retired to the tent of Rafael
+Lobo, and eventually to the hills. Pinoleo is a
+fine powerful-looking man, but understood to be
+very absolute and passionate. The captain had,
+in thanking him for his present, regretted his
+having nothing to offer him in return for his
+kindness; which caused him to rise, and, with
+great vehemence of expression, in his Indian
+language, to declaim against the supposition that,
+in our condition he should seek for a return.
+Pinoleo is the brother of Colissi, the cacique,
+who, with the aid of 100 carbineers of Arauco,
+was fighting and keeping in check Cadin, the
+hostile cacique of Jucapel and Tirua. He was
+the most civilised-looking of the caciques which
+we had occasion to meet. He wore a cloth cap
+with a gold-lace band; had a very large set of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">[37]</span>
+bolas round his waist, under his poncho, with the
+usual knife. His wife (who, we were informed,
+was one of many) and daughter were much
+ornamented with glass bead necklaces, and small
+silver plates, bits of brass or other metal, strung
+round their heads and necks: they wore, over
+their feet and legs, boots made of the skins
+of a colt’s legs, the hair inside, the knee part
+forming the heel of the foot, and the rest so
+shaped as to prove a convenient part of dress.
+A small handkerchief bound round their heads,
+and a band of braided beads in the form of a
+crown, confined their hair. They managed their
+horses equally as well as the men, riding in the
+same manner. The captain, and one or two of
+the officers, found a few presents for the ladies,
+which caused much pleasure to their party. We
+shortly after heard that, in a fit of drunkenness,
+Pinoleo had killed this wife, by knocking her on
+the head with his bolas: this occurred at the
+hut of a poor Indian, who had taken pains to
+entertain Pinoleo and party, as liberally as his
+means would allow, at supper. On this Indian
+he called for an indemnification for the loss of
+his wife, and the payment of a sum of dollars,
+which had led to the misunderstanding with his<span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">[38]</span>
+wife; but, not having it in his power to satisfy
+the cacique, he was forced to fly from his lands,
+his property of cattle becoming the prey of
+Pinoleo. Such is the present state of justice between
+man and man in the province of Arauco.</p>
+
+<p>Our worthy shipmate, Mr. Sarjeant, the purser,
+with his intimate knowledge of the Spanish language,
+was the source of all our communication
+with the Chilinos, and, through an interpreter,
+with the Indians: his valuable assistance was of
+vital importance to all; but his patience was
+sadly tried, from the unceasing calls made on his
+attention as spokesman.</p>
+
+<p>A tent was erected outside our line of camp
+for our new force of Chilinos; who zealously
+commenced the important service of establishing
+a line of scouts, in the direction of the hostile
+Indians, amongst the hills to the southward.
+Don Bernardino liked not the vicinity of our
+Indian look-out, aware, as he stated he was to us,
+of their frequent acts of treachery. To his party
+we spared a daily proportion of our provisions,
+which, in addition to an occasional forage to the
+northward, which some of them made, fully satisfied
+their wants. Through Don Bernardino we
+were enabled to obtain, from some one of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">[39]</span>
+caciques, a bullock or two, which were driven
+down to our camp for beef; and from the hills
+were brought, by the daily straggling Indians, a
+moderate number of fowls, with potatoes and
+apples, for which the officers and crew bartered
+whatever they had to spare that attracted the
+rapacity of the Indian. The weather, towards
+night, became thick, the surf sounding loud and
+heavily. Our usual precautions were taken in
+watching through the night.</p>
+
+<p><i>May 25.</i>—We were roused just before one
+this morning by Don Bernardino, who came to
+the camp with information, brought by a horseman
+just arrived, that the Indians had yesterday
+been fighting near us, and might shortly be expected;
+recommending us to be on our guard
+against their insidious mode of attack, particularly
+about daybreak, and, like them, “to sleep
+by day and watch by night.” The seamen and
+marines were instantly under arms. The captain
+made his disposition of our force, by putting the
+seamen in quarter watches, the marines forming
+a fifth body, each under an officer. Rockets and
+blue lights, and fire-balls, which we had made,
+were in readiness to throw amongst the horses.
+Fires were kept in, torches burnt, and all hands<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">[40]</span>
+paraded the camp till daylight, when tea was
+made for the ship’s company, and an hour or two
+of rest permitted. The party on board, under
+the second lieutenant, were equally on the alert,
+firing an occasional great gun, double-shotted, to
+aid the demonstration of our watchfulness. The
+ship had been so uneasy during the night, that
+the best bower-anchor had been dropped, to
+steady her bow to the surf. Anxiety was expressed
+by the party of Chilinos for us to move
+from our present encampment to the entrance
+of a small river, twenty miles to the northward
+of us, as adding much to our safety from the
+Indians, from its defensible situation, and being
+the nearest spot from which any approach could
+be made from sea to afford us relief; the difficulties
+of a more distant land journey being
+impracticable under the circumstances in which
+we were placed, and the necessity of only moving
+with our arms, provisions, and several sick. Don
+Bernardino had, in the first moment of his arrival,
+urged our moving, pointing out the danger of
+remaining, not only on account of the hostile
+Indians, but the liability of the flat on which we
+were being overflowed by the sea, as well as
+flooded by the heavy rains which, at that season<span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">[41]</span>
+of the year, might be hourly expected to fall;
+also stating that, though they might possibly be
+able to collect horses and mules, to assist our
+movement, whilst the weather remained dry, yet
+that, as they must necessarily come from a
+great distance, and from the neighbourhood of
+Arauco, the first rains would drive them to their
+homes again, fearing the impassable state of the
+country. At night a strong armed watch was
+on the look-out in the camp, and scouts kept at
+the distance of a few miles, in the direction of
+the hostile Indians.</p>
+
+<p>Light winds from the southward, with occasional
+fog. The evident necessity of strengthening
+our position, as a precaution against the
+liability of an attack from the Indians, caused
+all hands, after attending to the cables attached
+to the wreck, to be employed in forming such
+a barricade around our tents as might prove at
+least a check to the approach of cavalry. The
+result of this day’s labour, to those who witnessed
+it, will long be with proud satisfaction
+called to mind, as a proof of what the stimulated
+energies of British seamen can accomplish: they
+forgot their former fatigue, and, “turning-to”
+with a good will, boats, cordage, casks, and every<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">[42]</span>
+description of stores useful for defence, were
+carried on their shoulders, or laboriously dragged
+over the heavy sand; and the fortified state of
+our camp, by digging trenches, constructing barriers
+and platforms for our two boat-guns, which
+we had got out of the ship, and bringing aft the
+long-bow guns on board, so as to flank our encampment,
+reflected the greatest credit on every
+individual who shared in this day’s labour. Our
+works were afterwards improved; and, though
+the known bravery of the Indians is not to be
+despised, they would have bought a severe lesson
+by attacking us. Still, regret must have attended
+any sacrifice in such bootless warfare; and we
+have just reason to conclude that their knowledge
+of our prepared state constituted our security
+from molestation. The surprise of the numerous
+straggling Indians, who were lookers-on at
+our laborious efforts, was evidently very great,
+and, it is certain, excited a strong feeling of
+respect towards us.</p>
+
+<p>It has been already observed, that the seamen
+were divided into four quarter watches; three of
+them commanded by a lieutenant, and the master
+in charge of the fourth. A fair and equal division
+of the fire-arms was made: those who had no<span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">[43]</span>
+musket had a pistol, cutlas, or pike. Each quarter
+watch had their appointed station, to form in when
+called out under arms. The marines formed in
+the centre of the camp, and intended to act, as
+necessary, in support of the weakest point.</p>
+
+<p>It was understood that silence was strictly to
+be kept, and not a shot fired until orders were
+given from the captain. All were regularly mustered,
+under arms, every night before supper;
+the arms discharged and reloaded, and the necessary
+steps taken to ensure their readiness for
+use. The two boat cannonades were each in
+charge of a quarter watch. At night every body
+slept with their arms by their side. Besides the
+sentinels, who called out the half hours throughout
+the night, a watchword was established,
+and an officer and midshipman were constantly
+moving about the encampment and visiting the
+posts. Such were the precautions used in our
+endeavours to secure our camp. The Indians,
+who brought from the hills each his grass-net of
+apples, potatoes, or fowls, to exchange with us
+for whatever we had, were requested to carry on
+their marketing in a small mound of sand, about
+100 yards from us; and we put up a staff, with a
+cross, to indicate the spot, getting an interpreter<span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">[44]</span>
+to explain what we wished: for it was of infinite
+consequence to prevent an acquaintance with
+our camp. They smiled at our arrangement,
+but were not displeased, and for some time they
+adhered to our desire with tolerable regularity.
+The Indians had brought each day some supply
+of poultry, which the crew obtained from them,
+at first, at an easy rate of exchange, and they
+willingly received buttons or bits of metal in
+return: the eagerness, however, of the sailor to
+add the luxury of a fowl to his mess of salt meat
+caused the cunning Indian to demand articles of
+dress: an old shirt was what they coveted much;
+and a jacket was also among the articles eagerly
+sought for. On each of our batteries was fixed
+a flag-staff, to which a union-jack was secured,
+and kept constantly flying. A full supply
+of grape, canister, and round shot was piled
+on each platform, which was composed of cannonade
+slides sunk into the sand. These guns,
+as well as those on the stern of the wreck, were
+almost every evening discharged and reloaded,
+preparatory for the night. None could go in or
+out of the encampment without being seen by
+the sentinels; and at night the watchword was
+demanded of all who moved out of their tents.
+Don Bernardino kept us constantly on the alert<span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">[45]</span>
+with regard to the Indians. He had, with the
+consent of Captain Seymour, despatched an express
+to the governor of the frontier town of
+Arauco, begging him to use his authority in
+collecting seventy horses and thirty mules, to be
+driven down to the coast to assist in transporting
+our provisions and baggage to the Rio Leubu,
+that being the spot from whence we could alone
+hope to be relieved.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tuesday, May 26.</i>—Light north-westerly winds
+and clear weather. Observations were taken, by
+means of a false horizon, by the master and
+master-assistant, for a latitude and longitude of
+the encampment, which gave the latitude 37° 48′
+48″ s., and longitude 73° 34′ 30″ w. The wreck
+bore from the camp s.w. by w. We now felt a
+great satisfaction and security in our barricade.
+Our sick list numbered about ten, who were unfit
+for active work. Several of the ten were laid up
+from over work or rheumatic attacks, the result
+of their being constantly wet in labouring at the
+wreck.</p>
+
+<p>On board the Challenger, at the time of her
+disaster, was a Spaniard, who had been engaged
+in the affair of the Falkland Islands, and was
+one of the Gauchos who had been taken as concerned<span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">[46]</span>
+in the murders committed there in 1833.
+He had been released, and was a passenger from
+Rio de Janeiro, to be landed at Valparaiso; but
+he had frequently exhibited such symptoms of
+mental derangement, that it became necessary to
+secure him in his hammock. On the day the
+evening of which we were wrecked, he had
+been unusually unruly, and was therefore placed
+under restraint. In the moment of the greatest
+danger, on the striking of the ship amongst the
+breakers, one of the first who ran on deck was
+the Spaniard, with scarcely any covering on him.
+He must have broken away from the lashings
+which secured him, appeared perfectly sane, and
+prepared to assist in the duties of the ship; and,
+singular to relate, on no occasion afterwards,
+during the whole time of our stay on the shores
+of Chili, was there observed any return of wildness.
+He was very useful in the camp, from his
+skill in cutting out and applying the hides of the
+bullocks to the fabrication of moccassins.</p>
+
+<p><i>Wednesday, May 27.</i>—The wind northerly,
+with thick weather and fog. One watch was
+occupied at the wreck, getting out any undamaged
+articles of provisions, private property, or
+stores that could be got at. The quantity of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">[47]</span>
+water in the holds, however, prevented much
+being done. About mid-day, the Cacique Pinoleo,
+with his wife and daughter, and several
+followers, arrived at our camp. He was on his
+road to join his brother, the Cacique Colissi,
+who had sent for more assistance to make head
+against the hostile Indians, with whom he had
+been fighting. After collecting and mustering
+the Indians around our camp, and treating us
+with their war-whoop, he left us to join his brother,
+strengthening his force with the greater
+part of Rafael Lobo’s Indians. The daily routine
+of mustering under arms, with every precaution
+against a surprise during the night, was
+duly attended to. The night was damp and
+foggy.</p>
+
+<p><i>Thursday, May 28.</i>—The weather moderate,
+the wind northerly, with a damp fog. Except the
+necessary attention to the stream-cable fasts, and
+the working of the pumps, the crew were allowed a
+respite from their previous daily hard labours, the
+occupation of to-day being the arrangement of
+the interior of the tents, and the examination of
+their clothes and bedding, and likewise cleaning
+and sweeping inside the barricade, and making
+storage of the provisions. By the captain’s order<span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">[48]</span>
+a survey was taken by the second lieutenant,
+Mr. Collins, Mr. M’Donald, the master, and
+Mr. Barclay, the carpenter, to ascertain, if possible,
+the principal damage received in the hull
+of the wreck. Towards sunset it was observed
+that the stern-post was left dry in the drawback
+of the surf; and, from the forming of a sand-bank
+outside the ship, the iron stock of the best
+bower-anchor was at times visible about half
+the ship’s length ahead of her. The current
+through the surf to the southward along shore
+appeared unusually strong; the weather to
+seaward dark and gloomy, with the appearance
+of an approach of a strong northerly gale. At
+5 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> mustered under arms, and supplied what
+ammunition was necessary; discharged the arms,
+and reloaded; and likewise on board the wreck.
+A messenger arrived from the governor of
+Arauco to Don Bernardino, acknowledging our
+request to have horses and mules collected for
+our removal to the banks of the Rio Leubu, and
+promising the exertion of all his authority to forward
+so important an object. The wind increased
+as the night advanced.</p>
+
+<p><i>May 29.</i>—The weather dry, but with strong
+breezes, and cloudy from the northward; an<span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">[49]</span>
+unusually heavy surf rolling in on the beach,
+breaking with great violence and height on
+the breakers to seaward: the ship very uneasy,
+so much so as to threaten a separation of the
+decks from the lower body of the ship; to relieve
+her the foremast was cut away, and driven
+up on the beach to the southward, and the larboard
+sheet-anchor let go, the mainmast and
+bowsprit being the only spars now standing. A
+second small anchor was got on shore to assist in
+steadying the wreck, with the fore-gaugers and
+chain-messenger bent to it and hove taut. As
+the duty permitted, the officers and men were
+allowed to stroll to some little distance from the
+camp; and, with one of the Chilinos as a guide
+and interpreter, a party was occasionally made,
+in accordance with inclination, as well as appetite,
+in search of game of any description that
+might assist in adding to and varying our dinner.
+Persuaded by Don Bernardino, who furnished
+horses, the captain, with Mr. Sarjeant and a
+guide, rode for an hour two or in the direction
+of the ground pointed out by Rafael Lobo, and
+as far as the Cacique Cheuquante’s residence,
+over the hills north of us, distant about two
+leagues. There they found one of Pinoleo’s<span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">[50]</span>
+wives and a daughter, and attendants. They
+passed on their road one of the few evidences of
+a burial-ground which was seen by us. It was a
+spot of ten or twelve yards square, securely
+fenced by trunks of large trees piled round, the
+ends being rudely morticed into each other. The
+beauty and luxuriance of the country on the
+hills was a great contrast to the barren sandy
+flat on which we were situated. The variety
+and size of the evergreens were most striking.
+Many trees which bore fruit were also pointed
+out as much esteemed and eaten by the Indians:
+some cranberries were also gathered. Abundance
+of partridges were seen. At 4 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> Mr.
+Lane, the assistant-surgeon, arrived from Concepçion,
+bringing the welcome intelligence that
+his companion, Mr. Jagoe, with the consul,
+Mr. Rouse, were on their road to us, and hoped
+to reach our camp on the next day. Mr. Rouse
+was bringing with him several mules laden with
+articles which he considered we might have need
+of, as spirits and bread; not knowing of our
+success in saving out of the ship sufficient provisions
+for the present support of all. These
+mules delayed his movements; he, therefore,
+very properly, had pushed Mr. Lane on with a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">[51]</span>
+safe guide to convey to the captain, with as little
+delay as possible, a reply to his letter, naturally
+supposing the anxious suspense we were under
+to hear from him. The consul was also bringing
+some presents, to conciliate the good-will of the
+caciques on the road and around our encampment.
+Towards sunset our camp was put in
+movement by the appearance, through the distant
+haze to the southward, of an approach of
+several groups of horsemen, and a mounted scout
+was sent by Don Bernardino to reconnoitre.
+They turned out to be some of Cheuquante’s
+Indians, who were returning from the late battles
+fought by Colissi against the hostile Indians.
+Towards night it blew a heavy gale: its effect
+on the sand, which we were on, was most inconvenient
+and annoying, finding its way into every
+thing inside the tents.</p>
+
+<p><i>Saturday, May 30.</i>—Strong gales from the
+northward, with heavy rains, which penetrated the
+tents a good deal, causing many attempts on the
+part of the sleepers, during the night, to discover
+the driest spot inside to lie down on. Daylight saw
+a crowded group huddled together in the centre
+of the tent, as being the most free from rain.
+It was necessary to turn all hands on the pumps<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">[52]</span>
+to clear the holds of as much water as possible,
+in order to endeavour to get at the remainder of
+the provisions, which might have escaped injury.
+The heavy surf which broke this day on the ship
+made her very uneasy. Amongst the articles
+secured to-day, out of the after-hold, were a
+quantity of salt provisions and other articles,
+many of which were too much damaged for use,
+the whole of the lower frame of the ship having
+been a long time under the influence of sea-water.
+The provisions and spirits were carefully transported
+to the camp; the latter placed in the
+officers’ tent; the former ranged outside of it, in
+a trench, and covered with sand, thus securing
+and steadying the tent.</p>
+
+<p>At 12 30′ <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> we experienced a severe shock
+of an earthquake, causing a very strong vibration
+to every article in our tents, and instantly
+arousing several who were asleep, resting from
+fatigue. An account of the whole of the provisions
+saved was carefully taken, and such
+daily issues made to the crew, under the management
+of Mr. Sarjeant, the purser, as the
+quantity of the various species would admit of.
+The precaution of securing a large proportion
+of our bread, at the moment of our disaster, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">[53]</span>
+putting it into casks, proved of the greatest consequence
+to us; for, although it ran short, the
+third, and afterwards, as long as it lasted, a
+fourth, of the established daily allowance was of
+infinite service to us. The powder cases from
+the magazines, many of which were got out,
+were discovered not in every instance to have
+resisted the wet; yet we fortunately had an
+ample supply for all our necessities. The weather
+broke a little towards the evening, but with
+frequent squalls, attended by heavy rain.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sunday, May 31.</i>—The wind still northerly
+and fresh, with heavy rain, rendering our camp
+and tents very uncomfortable. The marsh and
+flat round us was much flooded, and gave us
+some idea of what we might expect, should the
+winter rains commence before we were enabled
+to quit our present spot, which had, in several
+points of view, the appearance of an island. The
+little stream of water which skirted the base of
+our camp rose amongst the hills inland, in which
+direction it partook of the character of a small
+river; and a few small fish were occasionally to
+be seen jumping in its deepest parts. Its increase
+after rain was considerable; resuming its ordinary
+size and force on the return of dry weather.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">[54]</span>
+At the camp, in the absence of washing apparatus,
+it became the scene of each morning’s ablution;
+and was on every account of inestimable
+value to us, for it was of excellent quality. A
+walk on the banks of the little stream could be
+extended to three or four miles, and yet continuing
+in sight of our camp, from the flatness
+of the ground. Duck and widgeon constantly
+sprang up from under the banks, which were
+towards the hills, covered with myrtles, rushes,
+and a gigantic weed peculiar to the marshes of
+that part of Chili.</p>
+
+<p>On the north side of the stream the officers
+had, as duty permitted them, gone out with their
+guns, and seldom returned without a supply of
+partridges and wild ducks, excellent in flavour,
+and most acceptable to our numerous mess, which
+included the officers of all grades, our excellent
+shipmate, Mr. Sarjeant, being the caterer, and
+fulfilling, under circumstances, so laborious and
+troublesome this duty, in a manner deserving the
+hearty thanks of his messmates. Anxious on
+every account to advance the necessary and
+evident object of moving to the banks of the
+Rio Leubu, and desirous of ascertaining the
+nature of that spot by an eyewitness of our own,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">[55]</span>
+in order that, on the arrival of the consul, no
+time might be lost in deciding on our future
+operation as concerned the Leubu, the captain
+at 10 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> despatched two officers, with a guide
+from the Chilino party, to examine the entrance
+of that river, with reference to forming an encampment
+there, and to the possibility of being
+able to embark from it. Every hour now sensibly
+proved to us the impossibility of remaining
+on our present ground. We had been dependent
+on the wreck for fire-wood, the quantity of
+which we had burnt was very great. Our spars,
+from their usefulness as tent-poles and as part
+of the barricades, we could not suffer to be cut
+up; parties, therefore, daily foraged the ship
+and beach for whatever was to be got at to supply
+the wants of the cooks: our distance from
+the wood on the hills was too great to send there,
+besides the risk of separating our force. The
+surf continued heavy, and the appearance of the
+weather to seaward squally and unsettled; the
+ship was working very much in her top sides,
+and sinking deep forward.</p>
+
+<p>A pest, which eventually became very destructive
+and annoying to us, had now begun to
+trouble us, in the shape of a multitude of a large<span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">[56]</span>
+kind of mouse: our provisions, stores, clothes,
+tents, all suffered from their constant attacks,
+and the freedom with which they visited the
+sleepers almost exceeded belief.</p>
+
+<p>At 5 30′ <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> the British consul, Henry William
+Rouse, Esq. from Concepçion, arrived at
+our barricade, accompanied by Colonel Don G.
+J. Valenzuela, the governor and military commandant
+of Arauco, with Mr. Jagoe. They had
+had a severe journey, from the effects of the
+heavy rain that had fallen in a country where the
+existence of a road is unknown. Their arrival
+was hailed with joy as the dawn of our deliverance,
+and gave us fresh stimulus to exertion.
+They were fatigued, and gladly partook of what
+we had to offer them, which included some good
+wine we had got out of the wreck; and sought
+some early rest, deciding on the morrow to concert
+measures for our moving towards the Rio
+Leubu. The governor expressed himself highly
+pleased at the manner in which we had barricaded
+ourselves. We were indebted, for the governor
+of Arauco’s presence, to the high esteem in
+which Mr. Rouse is held, amongst the authorities,
+throughout the country which surrounds
+Concepçion, where he is much beloved. On<span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">[57]</span>
+Mr. Rouse’s arrival at Arauco, the governor, to
+whom he is known, insisted on accompanying
+him to Molquilla, urging the benefit which his
+authority and presence might be of in assisting
+him on a journey, if not of danger, at least of
+great discomfort, and having interviews with the
+different caciques who were considered friendly
+to the Chilian government. The reader may
+possibly feel an interest in knowing what occurred
+during the journey performed by our two
+shipmates to Concepçion, and on their return.
+Mr. Jagoe’s account of it is nearly as follows:—</p>
+
+<p>“The captain had put me in charge of a letter
+to the British consul at Concepçion, with directions
+to take it, or find means of transmitting it:
+he also spoke to Mr. Lane on the same subject.
+We therefore consulted together as to the best
+manner of executing this mission, on which so
+much depended.</p>
+
+<p>“We attempted to communicate with the Indians
+(who by this time were collecting on the
+beach, and who evidently seemed inclined to be
+friendly, and disposed to render assistance to the
+party on shore), but to no purpose, as we could
+not make ourselves understood. Happily for us,
+at this moment a Chilino rode up: he possessed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">[58]</span>
+a pleasing countenance, and to him we communicated
+our wish to be guided to Concepçion,
+and inquired the distance, which, to our great
+surprise, we found to be 180 miles. I introduced
+Mr. Sarjeant (who understands the Spanish
+language thoroughly) to this Chilino, who,
+after a few preliminary remarks, agreed to conduct
+us to Concepçion for a stipulated sum, furnishing
+horses and all necessaries on the road:
+but as this Chilino’s horses were at his petraro,
+eight leagues from the beach, he stood our guarantee
+for eight dollars with the cacique Cheuquante,
+for the hire of two horses to take us
+there; and about half-past 4 three horses arrived,
+equipped in perfect Indian style, when, after
+some slight refreshment of biscuit and rum, we
+took leave of our fellow-sufferers. We rode
+along the beach about a league, then turned off
+for the interior, pursuing our way to the foot of
+some low hills, until we came to the cacique
+Cheuquante’s dwelling, at about 6 o’clock, at
+which time it was nearly dark. There we met
+Don Rafael Lobo, an Indian apparently of Spanish
+blood from his countenance. He speaks the
+Spanish language well, and acts as interpreter,
+and holds the commission of lieutenant of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">[59]</span>
+friendly Indians of the district of Tucapel, and
+appears to have much influence over them. He
+urged us much to remain the night. We were
+much questioned whether we belonged to a
+merchant ship; if the cargo was saved; of what
+it consisted; and when we were going to land
+it: to which Mr. Lane replied, that she was a
+vessel of war, laden with “powder and ball;”
+which, on communicating to the group of Indians
+surrounding us, they held up their hands,
+howled, and scratched their savage heads, expressive
+either of astonishment or disappointment.
+After exchanging our horses, which was
+the object of our coming here, we continued our
+way by the side of a thickly-wooded mountain,
+until the road, if such it maybe called, the horses
+being knee-deep in water, turned off through this
+forest. We had not proceeded more than a hundred
+yards, when the guide called out, ‘Yo he
+perdido el camino,’ (I have lost the road.) It was
+at this time quite dark. Such were our prospects,
+on a cold freezing night, without a dry thread,
+and Mr. Lane without shoes. The guide rode
+about two hours, endeavouring to regain the
+road, or find an opening through almost impenetrable
+wood, whilst we remained on one spot,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">[60]</span>
+occasionally striking sparks with a flint and steel
+to show our position. At last, fatigued and
+weary with disappointment, he returned, and pronounced
+sorrowfully that he had quite lost the
+road, and we must make up our mind to wait for
+daylight. Not knowing more of our guide than
+might be judged of by inexperienced physiognomists,
+we thought it prudent, in spite of his
+pleasing countenance, to retire to some distance
+from him: here we laid down, with our heads
+on each other’s knees, to keep them out of the
+wet, giving the signal to turn when either became
+so insufferably cold or cramped as to require
+relief. During the night we were alarmed
+by the frightful neighing of our horses, which
+our guide informed us was occasioned by the
+approach of the pinna, a small lion of South
+America, which is reported to be an enemy to
+horses, but not to man. In the confusion our
+guide’s horse got away, and he was a considerable
+time before he found it; and we heard no
+more of the intruders. To prevent any further
+accident, we secured the long bridles of our
+horses to our arms, in such a manner as made it
+impossible they could escape without our knowledge,
+should we be so fortunate as to sleep.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">[61]</span>
+Shortly after this we were again alarmed by the
+barking of dogs, and trampling of horses approaching,
+as we supposed, in the road we had
+lost.</p>
+
+<p>“We distinctly heard the voices of Indians,
+and, if we had known their language, might have
+been in possession of their intentions: we had
+no doubt but that they were the party we left
+at the raucho, who endeavoured to prevail on
+us to stop the night, and that they were in search
+of us. When they were so near as to hear if
+we uttered a word, our guide, in a low tone, said
+‘Hush!’ and when the horses made a rustling
+noise amongst the bushes, he evaded suspicion
+by grunting like a pig. We asked no questions,
+but remained in a state of indescribable anxiety
+till daylight, the 21st, when, wet, cold, hungry,
+and miserable, we rubbed ourselves to circulate
+the blood and reanimate our almost frozen
+limbs. Some time was lost in searching for Mr.
+Lane’s coat, which had been lost when Camilo’s
+horse took fright, as we could make no use of it
+as a covering or protection from the weather, it
+having been washed on shore, and consequently
+thoroughly wet. On finding the coat, we saddled
+our horses, mounted, and discovered the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">[62]</span>
+road to be only ten yards from us, and that we
+had not more than a hundred yards of the forest
+to pass through. We continued our journey at
+seldom less speed than a canter; these horses
+having a peculiar sort of pace, which they can
+maintain for a length of time almost incredible
+to an English traveller. We came to a branch
+of the river Leubu, about twenty or thirty miles
+inland: with little difficulty we crossed it on
+horseback; and our guide’s horse being fagged,
+he took mine, fixed his lasso to the saddle, rode
+after a few horses which were grazing near us,
+and in a few minutes entrapped one of the poor
+animals in that never-failing lasso: this was accomplished
+in less than ten minutes, and we
+continued our way across the country till we
+came to the Rio Leubu. (We had gone to some
+distance out of our way for the purpose of
+getting this horse.) Here we dismounted, unsaddled
+our horses, and hailed an Indian woman
+on the other side of the river, distant about
+fifty yards, to know if she had any means of
+conveying us over. She pointed to something
+in the shape of a canoe, lying on the bank of the
+river, filled with mud and water, which, with the
+assistance of another woman, she managed to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">[63]</span>
+turn bottom up, when it proved to be nothing
+more than a trough, in which they kept their
+apples for making chiahi, or cider (a very common
+beverage amongst them): after partially
+cleaning it, stopping the holes with mud, they
+floated it, and one of the women embarked,
+and, with a long pole, shoved it up the river on
+one side; and when the river turned, she allowed
+the current to sweep it across, which nothing but
+her local knowledge of its windings could have
+enabled her to accomplish. I was the first nominated
+by our guide to trust to this conveyance,
+and accordingly slid down the bank (for it
+was impossible to walk), and introduced myself
+to the goddess of the deep, by the friendly
+Indian expression of ‘Mai mai,’ which serves
+for ‘how do you do?’ ‘good bye,’ ‘very good,’
+and is the beginning of every friendly conversation.
+I embarked, after relieving myself of all
+incumbrances, such as jacket, waistcoat, &amp;c. thus
+preparing myself to swim, if necessary; and,
+standing upright, balanced myself, much to the
+satisfaction of my <i>waterwoman</i>. Mr. Lane and
+Camilo (our guide) came over in the same way,
+each bringing his saddle gear. Previous to embarkation
+our guide drove the horses into the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">[64]</span>
+river, over which they swam without difficulty;
+and, on landing, the lasso was thrown over their
+necks, which immediately stopped them. Here
+we went into a raucho, where our waterwoman
+assumed the character of hostess, and appeared
+to keep an Indian eating-house, from the quantity
+of dried beef hanging about the raucho, and
+some boiling in an earthenware pot on the fire,
+which she served up in a wooden bowl, when it
+proved to be cascuella, made from cherqui and
+ahi (capsicums) boiled together. As a substitute
+for spoons we used muscle-shells, and for
+bread we had heated corn, beaten between stones,
+and moistened with water, something about the
+consistency of birdlime. Our beverage was a
+mixture of water and roasted barley, pounded;
+which, being put into a bullock’s horn and
+violently stirred, produces an effervescence, in
+which state it is drank. I need not say, however
+foreign as this was to our usual fare, we
+made a hearty meal, not having eaten any thing
+substantial since the night of the wreck. This
+repast occupied us about ten minutes; after
+which we lighted our pajitas, and resumed our
+journey towards the patraco of our guide, called
+Eurihuillin, from the river of that name, which<span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">[65]</span>
+runs through it. Here we dismounted, and our
+guide, with the assistance of his major-domo,
+went out and caught fresh horses, while we sat
+by the fire drying our clothes, amused by the
+interesting interrogations of two old dames, the
+major-domo’s wife and wife’s sister, who were
+feeding us with roasted apples and potatoes.</p>
+
+<p>Our guide came in with his trousers very
+much torn; and knowing that I had a needle
+and some thread about me, applied to have them
+repaired. This I was most ready to do, in return
+for the kind treatment we had received, and the
+essential services he had rendered us. He then
+killed a sheep, which was cut in halves, and put
+under our saddles, as provisions for the journey.
+About one we again mounted, leaving directions
+for the horses to be returned to the Indian from
+whom we had borrowed them, took leave of our
+kind hostesses, and galloped off on our fresh
+steeds, much invigorated; but before night
+things we realtered—we were for galloping,
+and they for walking. About two leagues from
+our guide’s residence, we crossed the river Euriheullin,
+which forms the boundary of this part
+of his portraco, which is about twelve miles in
+length, and as many in breadth, and consists<span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">[66]</span>
+principally of coarse grazing ground in its primitive
+state, with plenty of wood. For this estate
+he pays sixteen dollars a year to the widow of a
+cacique. His stock consists of about 100 bullocks,
+and as many sheep; the former valued at
+sixteen dollars, and the latter at six reals each.
+A man’s rank or station in life is here generally
+estimated by the number of cattle he possesses,
+together with the quality of the poncho or mantle
+he rides in, without reference to the appearance
+of any other part of his dress: from this we
+judged our guide to be above mediocrity. During
+this day we rode from eighty to ninety miles,
+over a rich and beautiful country, where Nature
+has bestowed her favours with a liberal hand on
+an indolent and savage race, who are strangers
+to every kind of agriculture beyond the cultivation
+of a few potatoes, for which they prepare a
+fresh spot of ground every year. This will account
+for the fine specimens we have met with
+in this country.</p>
+
+<p>About 4 o’clock this afternoon, I lost my
+sword, from my carelessness in forgetting to
+buckle my belt, after looking at my watch on
+horseback. We were an hour looking for it;
+and this delay occasioned our being benighted<span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">[67]</span>
+on a thickly wooded mountain, where we encountered
+many difficulties from the intricacies
+of the passes, and the quantity of water we had
+to wade through; but as our guide knew this
+part of the road much better than that of the
+preceding day, we surmounted them all, and
+reached the Indian <ins class="corr" id="TN-4" title="Transcriber's Note&mdash;original text: punblo">pueblo</ins> of Albarada at 9
+o’clock. Here we went into a large rancho,
+crowded with dirty figures of both sexes, and all
+sizes; besides a number of dogs, which were
+kicked out, and a place near the fire cleared for
+us. We sat down cross-legged, enjoying tobacco
+and chichi, whilst supper was preparing, which
+was soon done, as they appear to have the pot
+always boiling, and also plenty of potatoes at
+hand, which they prepare in the most dexterous
+manner, with the edge of a muscle shell. Meanwhile
+the grey-headed dirty señora of the family
+was engaged, with the guide, in cutting up one
+of the halves of the sheep, and putting it into
+the boiler with potatoes and ahi. In the course
+of an hour it was served up in the usual way;
+and, after inviting the señor and señora of the
+party, we brandished our muscle shells in style,
+having become adepts in an art in which we were
+novices but yesterday. We made a hearty meal,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">[68]</span>
+and having drunk a sufficient quantity of chichi,
+we prepared our comfortless beds, having only
+our saddle gear on which to rest our weary limbs.
+These we placed close by the fire, and lay down
+to rest, surrounded by dogs and dirty children:
+however, after our excessive fatigue, we slept
+tolerably well.</p>
+
+<p>At daylight, the 22d, we arose, and got rid of
+some of those intolerable pests, pulgas or fleas
+(with which we were covered), by taking off and
+shaking our jackets: we then each took a roasted
+potato, saddled our horses, and mounted. The
+ground was frozen very hard, and the air exceedingly
+cold. We had not gone far when
+my horse showed symptoms of weakness, or disinclination
+to proceed, which obliged us to go a
+considerable distance out of the way, to a cacique
+known to our guide, to procure another.
+We had not only to go out of our way, but down
+a very steep mountain, the horses sliding the
+greatest part of the way on their haunches, when
+we came to a beautiful valley, rendered still
+more lovely by the splendid beams of the newly
+risen sun. Here, by the side of the river, were
+scattered a few huts or ranchos, out of one of
+which came the cacique, who hailed us with that<span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">[69]</span>
+friendly phrase, “Mai, mai,” which we obsequiously
+returned. Our guide told him the nature
+of our expedition, and the cause of our
+visit, when he immediately introduced us to the
+inmates of his dwelling (all women, the caciques
+being allowed a plurality of wives). He despatched
+his peons or servants for a horse, while we sat
+by the fire smoking pajitas, or eating roasted
+potatoes, occasionally making ourselves understood
+by the women, to whom we offered some
+snuff, which, from having been wet, was become
+caked: this they readily accepted, and were
+about to put it into “<i>the general receptacle</i>,”
+when I stopped them, and made them understand
+that it was not to be eaten, by taking a pinch
+myself. They followed my example, but in a
+most strange manner, by forcing it up their nostrils,
+and laughing hideously at the ridiculous
+use thus made of their “smelling <i>apparatus</i>.”
+Being gratified with the pleasing excitement this
+pungent powder produced, they begged me to
+put some in a paper for them: this I was most
+happy to do, as it was the first opportunity we
+had (even in this small way) of showing our gratitude
+for the many and great kindnesses we had
+received. My horse being brought and saddled,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">[70]</span>
+we mounted, leaving directions for the disposal
+of the fagged horse. We then purchased a goose,
+which we gave in charge to the guide, lighted
+our pajitas, and took leave. We ascended this
+steep mountain in a manner more like going up
+stairs than any thing else I can compare it to,
+the heavy rains having given it the appearance of
+steps; the only support to the horses’ feet being
+the roots of trees, which intersected the path,
+and made a tolerably firm footing: we laid down
+on our horses’ necks to escape being dragged off
+by the Arcania shrubs, which formed a canopy
+over our heads. These are chiefly evergreens,
+some having beautiful flowers. We particularly
+noticed a large crimson bell-shaped flower, growing
+as a parasitical shrub, which covered the tops
+of the tallest trees, and striking the eye of the
+inexperienced traveller with its incomparable
+beauty. About eleven we arrived at Arauco, the
+frontier town of Chili, which is situated twenty
+leagues south of Concepçion, on the extremity
+of an extensive marsh, about six leagues in
+length, bounded on one side by the Pacific Ocean,
+and on the other by hills, backed by the Cordilleras.
+This town (which formerly was nothing
+more than an Indian pueblo, till the Chilinos, by<span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">[71]</span>
+incessant warfare and stratagem, subdued the Indians,
+and advanced thus far into their territory,)
+is garrisoned by a few Chilino troops, under the
+command of Lieutenant-Colonel Señor Don Geronimo
+José Valenzuela, who was at this time
+at Concepçion. As soon as we entered the town,
+the knowledge of our arrival having reached the
+second in command, Major Don José Sylva, he
+ran to us, and embraced us as officers in distress,
+and took us to his quarters, and introduced us
+to five or six officers, to whom, with himself, we
+shall ever be indebted for the most Castilian-like
+kindness and hospitality, which, if I were
+not an Englishman, I ought to say could not
+be surpassed. With these gentlemen we dined:
+they informed us that they would immediately
+despatch the brother of our guide, Don Bernardino
+Hermosillo, a captain in their militia cavalry,
+with a party of twelve men, to guard the
+wreck at Molquilla; at the same time telling us
+that their reason for sending so small a number
+was, because the Indians, so far south as the
+place where the ship had been wrecked, had
+acknowledged the government of Chili, and
+were at present assisting them, or rather themselves,
+by carrying on an interminable and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">[72]</span>
+murderous warfare with the tribes who were disaffected
+towards the government: the small
+force they were about to send was merely to act
+as scouts, to make known the position of the hostile,
+and to prevent treachery on the part of the
+friendly tribes, the place of the shipwreck being
+on the extreme verge where they acknowledged
+the government of Chili, and where their desperate
+battles are fought. We took this opportunity
+of informing Captain Seymour how far we
+had advanced on our journey; and Major Don
+José Sylva availed himself of our going to Concepçion
+for communicating to their government
+what he had done for the protection of the
+wreck.</p>
+
+<p>At 2 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> we bade a reluctant adieu to
+these hospitable fellows, deeply impressed with
+a sense of their kindness and our obligation.
+We rode along the marsh, observing here and
+there a rancho, with a spot of cultivated ground,
+till we arrived at a cluster of ranchos (scarcely
+deserving the name of a pueblo) about three
+miles from Lianco, called Caremfranque, after
+the river which runs near it. Here we were introduced
+to the family of our guide, who all ran
+and embraced their parent with affection, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">[73]</span>
+heard from him all the particulars connected with
+us. Fresh horses were brought by one of the
+peons, whilst our guide changed his dress and
+put on a better poncho. It has already been
+observed, that this part of the habiliment tends
+to point out the station of life of him who wears
+it: it is due to our guide to make known that his
+was a <em>very good</em> one, confirming his respectability
+and the good character given of his
+honesty by the officers at Arauco: we can only
+add that, with the essential service of guiding us to
+the consul (which we trust will be the foundation
+of relief to the shipwrecked crew), he has shown
+us the most christian-like kindness and attention,
+entitling him to the friendly appellation of “old
+Camilo,” instead of “our guide.” Taking leave
+of his kind family, we crossed the river Cacampuqune
+and came to a few scattered ranchos,
+named, after an old Spanish fort in its vicinity,
+“Fuerte viejo Colerico.” Here we were introduced
+to a Chilian señorita, a pretty brunette,
+gaudily dressed, and informed by “old Camilo”
+that we should stop at her house for the night,
+and, by starting the next morning early, should
+most probably reach Concepçion in good time,
+as we were only ten leagues from it. Gratified<span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">[74]</span>
+by this pleasing information, we dismounted, and
+after begging pardon for our dirty appearance,
+supper was ordered by “old Camilo:” it was
+soon prepared, and served up in the Chilian style
+by our industrious hostess, who, of course, supped
+with us. During conversation, she told us that
+there were some Englishmen in the village, and
+sent for them: they soon made their appearance,
+and in the course of conversation we discovered
+them to be North Americans. They made us a
+present of a dirty pipe and a small quantity of
+tobacco, which they called real Virginia: this
+was no treat, as we preferred the pajitas made
+with mild tobacco, wrapped in the Indian corn-leaf,
+and presented by our charming hostess, who
+was an adept in making them. After enjoying
+our aquaediente and pajitas, we retired to bed
+and slept soundly; and arose much refreshed
+at daylight on the 23d. We were delayed
+until seven o’clock for the horses; and if the
+nature of our mission had not been so important,
+we might have said the loss of time was
+not to be regretted, as our kind hostess was
+busily engaged in supplying us with maté. At
+7 we took leave, promising to call on our way
+back. We hurried over a high hill or mountain<span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">[75]</span>
+called the “Luro di Villagu,” and by the Indians
+“Muguana”—(this being the place
+where they defeated the Spaniards and gained
+their independence)—then over a plain of six
+leagues and upwards in length, with here and
+there a cultivated spot, and many lakes covered
+with water-fowl. We arrived at the pueblo of
+San Pedro, on the southern side of the Bio-bio,
+immediately opposite Concepçion.</p>
+
+<p>Here “old Camilo’s” attention was called to
+the means of conveying us across the river, while
+we stopped at the house of an old dame to whom
+he introduced us: she kindly brought us water,
+and we washed, leaving our linen to undergo
+the same process, as we were covered with fleas.
+Camilo returned, and told us the launch would
+not be ready for some hours, and recommended
+our taking breakfast, which we were too happy
+to agree to: we sat down and made a hearty
+meal.</p>
+
+<p>About 2 o’clock we embarked in a flat-bottomed
+oblong launch, with nearly a dozen
+passengers, two bullocks, four horses, six pigs,
+and several sacks of wheat. This conveyance
+was kept under command, against a strong current,
+by an immense oar which answered the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">[76]</span>
+purpose of a rudder. A man was stationed at
+each end of the launch with a long pole, which,
+on first starting, was made use of a little, but
+when in deep water she was merely kept end on
+to the current by means of the rudder, until we
+approached the shallow water on the northern
+side, which covers an extensive flat of sand. On
+grounding, the horses, bullocks, and pigs disembarked,
+and the launch being again afloat, was,
+by the assistance of the poles, shoved some distance
+over the flat, but still a considerable way
+from the beach. We disembarked, by mounting
+our horses from the launch, and entered the city
+of Concepçion (situated on the Bio-bio), which
+we found in a state of complete ruin, not a single
+building standing, and the inhabitants living in
+tents or wooden houses, which some of the more
+opulent had been able to erect, as temporary residences.
+We learned that it had been destroyed
+by an earthquake, on the 20th of February last:
+the fatal shock which produced this devastation
+was felt at mid-day, without giving the slightest
+warning, when every house and public building
+fell; and it appears miraculous that only a
+hundred lives were lost. The port of Talcahuana
+felt the shock with equal severity. The sea is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">[77]</span>
+reported to have risen upwards of fifty feet immediately
+after the earthquake, breaking up on
+the ruins, inundating the flat on which the
+town was situated, and sweeping every thing
+before it, barely giving the inhabitants time to
+effect their escape to the hills.</p>
+
+<p>About half-past 3 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>, in one of these temporary
+wooden houses, we found H. W. Rouse,
+Esq., His Majesty’s Consul; and I need not say
+how happy we were to introduce ourselves to
+him, and deliver the Captain’s letter. From our
+shabby dress and dirty appearance, he for a
+moment eyed us with suspicion; but having
+opened the letter, his countenance assumed an
+expression of benevolence and pity. He shook
+hands with us, called for wine and water; and we
+immediately saw in him all those characteristics
+which endear us to one another. He then left
+us to consult the Intendenté, and deliver the
+letter we brought from the officers at Arauco:
+he did not return till 6, when we dined; and the
+circumstances attending the wreck formed the
+subject of our conversation, as Captain Seymour’s
+letter put him only in possession of the bare fact.
+At 11 we each took a tepid bath, and “turned
+in” to comfortable beds, the Consul having previously<span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">[78]</span>
+left us to pay his last visit to a dying
+native, and did not return till 4 in the morning,
+when he awoke me, and related a few particulars
+connected with his visit, and the customs
+of the people in such a case. This story was not
+at all calculated to strengthen the nerves of a
+person whose whole system had recently been
+severely shaken, nor calculated to prepare him
+for the shock of an earthquake which at this moment
+threatened destruction. This shock roused
+me; under the influence of great alarm, I jumped
+out of bed, and was about to escape from the
+house, when the Consul called out, “It’s over!”
+and I returned to my bed, but too much frightened
+to expect more sleep. The Consul told us
+they had been visited with shocks, more or less
+severe, ever since the great earthquake, which
+amongst the natives appears to mark an epoch,
+as in conversation they date every thing so
+many days before or after “the earthquake.”
+The 24th and 25th were employed in busily
+writing with the Consul, who determined on
+accompanying us to the wreck; and requested
+our whole assistance in preparing despatches for
+the Consul-general at Santiago, and other persons
+likely to be the means of affording relief to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">[79]</span>
+the unfortunate crew. I need not say that our
+undivided attention to this and other services
+was commanded by this gentleman, in order to
+expedite our return to the wreck, which was his
+most anxious desire, his whole head and soul
+being in the hope of relieving or rendering assistance
+to his distressed countrymen, fully aware
+that even if they had all succeeded in reaching
+the shore in safety, there was great danger to be
+apprehended of an attack by the Indians, should
+they come upon them by surprise, or if they had
+not been able to save the means of defence
+against that vindictive race of savages, who on
+former disasters had plundered the unfortunate
+crews of four vessels wrecked upon their coast,
+and who were more particularly to be feared at
+this season of the year, as that intoxicating drink
+chichi is plentiful; and when excited by this
+beverage they make desperate attacks on horseback,
+armed with spears of bamboo from twenty
+to thirty feet in length, and are not an enemy to
+be trifled with.</p>
+
+<p><i>May 26.</i>—The despatches, having been completed
+at a late hour last night, were sent off
+this morning at 4 o’clock by an extraordinary
+courier, who was to be rewarded for his services<span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">[80]</span>
+according to his expedition: if he reached Santiago
+in seven days, he was to have forty-five
+dollars, but if in less time, five dollars more for
+every day less than seven, and decreased in the
+same proportion for every day more than seven.
+We were, until five in the afternoon, engaged in
+preparing for our journey to the wreck, purchasing
+presents to conciliate the Indians, indigo
+and other articles to traffic with them, and hiring
+mules, horses, and servants, to take charge of and
+guard the numerous things the Consul thought
+might be of service to the crew, whom he supposed
+might be destitute. We left Concepçion
+at half-past five, and rode to the bank of
+the river, intending to cross and sleep at San
+Pedro that night; but to our disappointment the
+launch had gone over, and we were obliged to
+return to the Consul’s house, where we dined
+and retired early, purposing to start at daybreak
+next morning.</p>
+
+<p><i>Wednesday, 27.</i>—Arose, took an early
+breakfast, and crossed the river. We were delayed
+at San Pedro till 2 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> in arranging loads
+for the mules, hiring horses, &amp;c.; at sunset had
+only reached the extreme end of the plain before
+described.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">[81]</span></p>
+
+<p>We stopped at the house of a gentleman well
+known to the Consul, but who at this time was
+at Santiago. His major-domo, however, offered
+the use of the house to the Consul, which he
+declined accepting, or putting him to any trouble
+more than to prepare a supper, and allow us
+to arrange our beds inside the corridor. We
+made a hearty supper; Camilo messing with us,
+and treated as a valuable friend by the Consul,
+who placed every confidence in his honesty, and,
+from his better knowledge of the country people
+and Indians, intrusted to him the entire arrangement
+of the journey. After supper, in the course
+of conversation, it was agreed that Mr. Lane and
+Camilo should precede us with letters to Captain
+Seymour and the commandant of Arauco, acquainting
+them with our proceedings. The
+letters were written, and we retired to rest.</p>
+
+<p>At daylight, on the 28th, Mr. Lane and Camilo
+set out, the former to be guided by Camilo’s
+son, Antonio. The Consul and myself proceeded
+at 9 on our journey, but found some difficulty
+in getting the mules on, the rains having
+rendered the roads almost impassable, the mules
+constantly falling, and requiring to be relieved
+of their burdens. Came to Colcura; and, in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">[82]</span>
+passing through Fuerte Viejo, I waved my hand
+to the pretty brunette; and, about 9, after
+a long and tedious journey, came to the Rio
+Carampanque, which we crossed about 10
+o’clock; arrived at Camilo’s house, where we
+supped on roasted turkey, cascuella, and the
+roasted seeds of the Araucano pine; enjoyed our
+pipes, and retired to rest.</p>
+
+<p><i>Friday, 29.</i>—In no hurry to rise this morning:
+breakfasted at 10, and occupied three hours
+in loading the mules and hiring horses and additional
+mules for the conveyance of the shipwrecked
+crew. At 2 in the afternoon we took
+leave of Camilo’s family, and proceeded towards
+Arauco, where we arrived about 3; and dined
+with the Commandant Valenzuela, and the officers
+who were so kind to us on our way up.
+After dinner, a meeting of the friendly caciques
+was held at this gentleman’s house; when, through
+the means of an interpreter, they intimated to
+the Consul and Commandant their friendly disposition
+towards the shipwrecked crew, and their
+readiness to assist them. The Consul presented
+each of them with a jacket, some indigo, tobacco,
+and Jew’s harps, together with some
+trinkets for their wives. The Commandant having<span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">[83]</span>
+made up his mind to accompany us to the
+wreck, we started at 5 o’clock, and about sunset
+came to a few ranchos on the top of a hill, called
+Mitmessin: here we supped, and retired to bed;
+but passed a miserable night, in consequence of
+its blowing a gale from the northward, and the
+rancho being neither wind nor water tight.</p>
+
+<p><i>Saturday, 30.</i>—Arose and breakfasted; it
+still blowing hard, and raining heavily: our
+anxiety greatly increasing for the safety of the
+crew. At 10 took leave of our friends, and arrived
+at the Indian pueblo of Albarado at 11,
+and went to the rancho at which we slept on our
+way up. Here we found the people celebrating
+a festival—singing and dancing in a frightfully
+savage manner, all more or less intoxicated with
+chichi. They would not allow us to proceed
+until we acknowledged our friendship by partaking
+of some of their chichi. We then lit our
+pajitas, and, about 3, crossed the river, which
+we found running very rapidly, the current being
+increased by the heavy rains. I stopped a few
+minutes at the house of Camilo’s major-domo:
+the inmates welcomed my return; but I was
+obliged to hurry my visit, and rejoin the party.
+We arrived at Lumaco at 6, having passed the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">[84]</span>
+troop of mules, which were to remain at the
+major-domo’s house should night overtake them.
+We dismounted perfectly drenched, it having
+rained incessantly during the day, dried our
+clothes by the fire, supped, and retired to rest,
+with the consolation that we were only a short
+day’s journey from the wreck.</p>
+
+<p>Arose at daybreak, it still blowing and raining;
+waited till 10 for the mules, when they arrived.
+The servants having breakfasted, at half-past 11
+we mounted, and at 2 came to the Rio Leubu,
+which we crossed in a much better conveyance
+than we did in our way up; the Consul having
+brought a large batsa, and a man to manage it,
+in the hope of assisting the shipwrecked crew
+in transporting parties and baggage across the
+rivers. The Consul, Camilo, and myself having
+crossed, we hurried on our way to the wreck,
+leaving the mules to follow.</p>
+
+<p>About 5 we arrived; and I introduced the
+Captain to the Consul, who presented the Commandant,
+and was gratified by the kind welcome
+of my shipmates and fellow-sufferers, who hailed
+us as the harbingers of their deliverance from
+the wretchedness and privations they had endured;
+and those only who have been placed in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">[85]</span>
+similar circumstances can imagine the delightful
+feelings produced by such a meeting: having
+left them surrounded by danger, and now finding
+them encamped in comparative safety on a
+mound of sand about 200 yards from the unfortunate
+ship.</p>
+
+<p><i>Monday, June 1.</i>—Wind light from the north.
+Several pieces of the ship’s bottom were picked
+up on the beach. The officers sent to examine
+the entrance of the Rio Leubu returned, bringing
+a favourable report on the objects in view.
+The Consul, with the governor, being convinced
+of the absolute necessity of instantly removing
+from our present encampment, the Captain and
+officers met in the presence of the Consul, for
+the purpose of drawing up a statement of the
+reasons which caused such a course (of abandoning
+the wreck) imperative. The opinion of all
+on this subject was unanimous.</p>
+
+<p>The nature of the resolutions at this meeting
+will be understood by a perusal of them; they
+are signed by each person then present, and
+were prepared as a public document for the information
+of the Admiralty, if called for. Captain
+Seymour, feeling it his duty to protect the
+wreck as long as circumstances would permit,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">[86]</span>
+in order that a communication might be made
+to the senior officers for his decision on the case,
+also addressed a letter, through the Consul, to the
+governor of Arauco, requesting his authority,
+with a force from him to guard it from the
+inroads of the Indians, until the pleasure of the
+Commodore could be received. The reply to
+this request from the governor states his inability,
+from various insurmountable difficulties, to
+give the assistance asked for.</p>
+
+<p>The decision of moving to the entrance of the
+Rio Leubu drew the attention of all to the necessary
+preparations. The crew were, therefore,
+variously employed in packing provisions for
+carriage on mules, a number of which, with many
+horses, had followed or accompanied the governor
+of Arauco. The sail-makers were employed
+in making small tents of a transportable size, the
+carpenters fitting poles for them; and spars
+were prepared to form sledges for the conveyance
+of heavy articles and casks, to be drawn by
+oxen, which we hoped, through the interference
+of the governor and the friendly caciques, to
+have driven down to our encampment for that
+purpose.</p>
+
+<p>The officers examined into the state of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">[87]</span>
+men’s clothing, and gave directions for every
+thing to be packed ready for a moment’s warning;
+and they were allowed to furnish themselves
+with bags, where wanted, out of certain sails, or
+canvass appropriated to that purpose. The crew,
+as well as the officers, being much distressed for
+shoes, the hides of the bullocks which we had
+been furnished with were carefully portioned out
+in pieces of a size to make moccassins, which,
+being laced on tight to the foot, soon assumed a
+form, and proved a convenient and excellent
+substitute in so important a want; and, during
+the latter part of our sojourn on the shores of
+Chili, were used almost universally.</p>
+
+<p>At 1 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> Lieutenant Collins, with Mr. Macdonald,
+the master, was sent to the entrance of
+the Rio Leubu, to make a more particular examination,
+with reference to the safety of a ship’s
+approach to it. The former, furnished with a
+passport from the governor of Arauco, and a
+guide, was to proceed on to Concepçion, with a
+letter from Captain Seymour to the senior or
+naval officer there, or elsewhere, stating our intention
+of proceeding to the Rio Leubu, there
+to await succours for our removal by sea. Lieutenant
+Collins was furnished with an order from<span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">[88]</span>
+the Captain to this effect: that if he found, on
+his arrival at Concepçion, there appeared no
+early prospect of any naval officer having it in
+his power to come to our assistance, he was to
+use his endeavours to hire a vessel capable of
+embarking the crew, and bring her himself to
+our relief.</p>
+
+<p>At sunset the weather was moderate and
+cloudy. The usual daily muster under arms
+was gone through, and preparation made for
+the night, on board the wreck as well as on
+shore.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tuesday, June 2.</i>—Light winds from the east,
+and fine weather. Mr. Macdonald returned from
+the entrance to the Leubu, confirming its advantages
+in favour of our measure of encamping
+there, as well as for embarkation. At noon,
+Lieutenant Tause, with an armed party to the
+number of about thirty men, including two midshipmen,
+started for the newly destined site of
+encampment, taking under their escort from
+thirty to forty mule-loads of provisions, tents,
+and various articles of baggage. We were most
+fortunate in a continuance of a few days of fine
+weather, as rain would almost have put a stop
+to our march, from the obstacles offered on the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">[89]</span>
+road. In one instance we had a mile to cut
+through an aged forest, whose solitude would
+appear to have reigned unbroken for centuries.
+The governor of Arauco was most attentive and
+vigilant in acquiring a knowledge of the movement
+and position of the hostile Indians, and
+constant spies were despatched to the hills south
+of us. A good number of mules and horses had
+been collected and driven to the vicinity of our
+camp, and great exertions were made, therefore,
+by all to expedite our march. Several of the
+caciques had consented to allow their bullocks
+to be yoked to assist the transport of our heavy
+baggage. Pinoleo, his wife and daughter, and
+followers, took another look at us this day, but
+did not remain any length of time, though they
+accepted a little rum and water previous to
+returning to the hills.</p>
+
+<p><i>June 3.</i>—Fine weather, light wind from <span class="allsmcap">N.E.</span>
+We this day loaded about sixty mules, and, with
+poles lashed together, on which were secured
+casks, and other heavy articles, made up loads
+for eleven yokes of oxen; the whole of which
+started for the Leubu: a party of men in advance,
+to cut down the trees and clear the road
+for them. The difficulties which the oxen had<span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">[90]</span>
+to overcome, in dragging heavy loads through
+swampy ground and thick abrupt woods, were
+very great, and could only have been overcome
+by the steady perseverance and patience so characteristic
+of the Indians who guided them.
+Five caciques now arrived from different directions,
+and with many followers, for the purpose
+of having a formal interview with the Governor
+of Arauco, the Consul, and Captain. They were,
+Cheuquante, cacique of Molquilla; Pinoleo, cacique
+of Lumuco; Antinao, cacique of Arauco;
+Currinir, cacique of Tucapel; and Udalevi, cacique
+of Arauco (father of Antinao). Rafael
+Lobo was also present: he is the accredited interpreter
+for the Chilian government amongst the
+Indians of the district of Arauco, and is allowed
+to style himself Teuciente de la Reduçion di
+Tucapel. This interview was highly interesting,
+as displaying much of the character and manners
+peculiar to the Araucanian Indians: it lasted
+almost three hours; an interpreter, accustomed
+to the office, on the part of the governor, undertaking
+to make and receive the various communications
+that passed. The Indian language is
+not unpleasant, and reminded us a good deal of
+that of the South Sea Islands. Their mode of address,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">[91]</span>
+however, is very singular, in short abrupt
+sentences, on the latter words of which was laid
+a loud and peculiar emphasis. Before the conclusion
+of the meeting the Consul spread out
+his bundle of presents, consisting of strings of
+coloured glass beads, papers of indigo, tobacco,
+cotton printed handkerchiefs, and Jew’s harps,
+the whole of which were appropriately distributed,
+and received by the Indians with great apparent
+satisfaction, as offered by Mr. Rouse, the Consul,
+in the name of His Majesty the King of Great
+Britain. With the caciques came the infant
+child of one of them: the mode in which it was
+brought was singular. It was placed in a rude
+wooden box, framed something like a wooden
+coal-scuttle, contrived so as to make a snug fit
+for its little imprisoned inmate, whose head only
+was visible over the edge of the front; the back
+formed the handle, by which it was slung, by
+hide straps, to the Indian woman who took
+charge of it, and who, mounted on horseback,
+conveyed it away. On taking leave, the caciques
+went through the ceremony of a parting embrace
+with the governor, Consul, and Captain;
+which was by putting the right arm over the
+left shoulder, the left arm round the waist, under<span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">[92]</span>
+the right arm, the head resting on the right
+shoulder, and the contrary. They finally accepted
+from the Consul a small cask of Concepçion
+wine, with which they retired to the hills
+to drink.</p>
+
+<p><i>June 4.</i>—The weather continued quiet and
+fine. The Captain, taking with him a guide,
+started early this morning to examine the progress
+and position of our new encampment at
+the entrance of the Leubu. Advantage was
+taken of this day to transport our sick, eight in
+number, to the camp: they were mounted on
+the quietest horses we could procure, and made
+their journey very comfortably under the charge
+of Mr. Lane, the assistant-surgeon. The Captain
+returned towards sunset, highly satisfied
+with the judicious selection, by Mr. Tause the
+first lieutenant, of the spot, on which his exertions
+had made great progress towards the erection
+of tents for the reception of the crew,
+provisions, and stores. An attempt was made
+to-day to drag the cutter on spars beyond the
+promontory of land <span class="allsmcap">W.N.W.</span> of the wreck, distant
+about a league, with the intention of watching
+an opportunity, if the surf should ever permit
+it, to launch her, under the shelter of a reef of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">[93]</span>
+rocks, and take her round to the entrance of the
+Leubu; but it was not persisted in, from the
+little chance of success; the strength and exertions
+of the crew being, also, of much more consequence
+for other purposes. The governor of
+Arauco had procured a small ox, which he presented
+to the Captain, and which we killed for the
+mess. Towards the evening a messenger arrived
+with despatches from Arauco for the
+governor, informing him that a body of 600
+hostile Indians, under the cacique Cadin, were
+within two days’ march of us, and that 2000
+more were assembled on the hills to support
+them. This intelligence, with other reports,
+was sufficient to keep us on the alert, and increased
+our desire to leave our present encampment
+for one where, we hoped, we should feel
+less apprehension of being molested. Spies were
+immediately sent in the direction of the hostile
+Indians. The usual preparations were made for
+the night, with a muster, and discharge and reload,
+of the small arms.</p>
+
+<p><i>June 5.</i>—Northerly winds and fine weather,
+with occasional fog. Busily employed in forwarding
+baggage to the Leubu, as our means of
+carriage permitted. The caciques came again in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">[94]</span>
+a body with their followers to pay another visit
+to us; occupying, most inconveniently, much of
+the valuable time of some of our party. A few
+more presents were found for them. A sort of
+apology was made to the governor for the unruly
+drunken conduct of a connection of one of the
+caciques on their former visit, when the interpreter
+drew his sword, and threatened to cut
+him down if he did not desist from interrupting
+him. The penitent Indian afterwards made himself
+very useful, in conducting and influencing
+other Indians in the transport with oxen of our
+baggage to the Leubu. The dress of the caciques
+was, in both their visits, not very different
+from their followers, except in the case of Pinoleo,
+whose costume has been already described,
+and Cheuquante, who looked not very unlike one
+of the monkies which the Savoyard boys exhibit
+in the streets of London; he having, by some
+means or other, furnished himself with what was
+meant for a cocked hat, with a cockade, a blue
+coatee with red cuffs and collar, and a very long
+sabre, and adding to his ridiculous appearance
+by his evident self-satisfaction.</p>
+
+<p>A supply of rum and water, in a small cask,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">[95]</span>
+was given them; on which they took the hint,
+and retired to the hills.</p>
+
+<p><i>June 6.</i>—Moderate breeze from <span class="allsmcap">S.W.</span>, with
+thick foggy weather: the crew busily employed
+in collecting every useful article to pack for our
+newly destined camp; a party in the wreck
+clearing every part that could be got at of all
+worth the difficulty of transporting to the Leubu.
+The governor of Arauco earnestly requested that
+we would destroy any powder which we had
+saved over the full supply we moved with, lest it
+should fall into the hands of the Indians, when
+it would be turned to the serious disadvantage
+of the Chilian arms; he not having it in his
+power to take safe custody of it. Several cases
+of large-grained powder were consequently blown
+up, to the astonishment of the wonder-stricken
+Indians. A detachment of sixteen loaded mules
+again started this day for the Leubu. Sad complaints
+began to be made of the mice, and bitter
+denunciations against them; but their numbers
+overpowered every effort on our part to get rid
+of them. It was now not uncommon, in the
+morning, on putting on what had been a jacket,
+or other whole garment, at night, to discover the
+disappearance of a large portion of it,—the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">[96]</span>
+effects of the mice during the interval. To the
+canvass they were most destructive, eating large
+holes in all parts of our tents. Our force having
+been now much divided, we were most anxious
+to make a final march of all to our new camp.
+Our usual precautions were exercised in examining
+the arms and mustering watches.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sunday, June 7.</i>—Fresh breezes, and cloudy
+from the southward. It had been our intention
+this day to have abandoned our Molquilla encampment;
+but the failure of the means of carriage,
+the mules not having returned from the
+Leubu, prevented our accomplishing it. The
+tents were struck at daylight, cut up, and placed
+ready for transport. An express had reached
+the governor, requiring his return to his command
+at Arauco, and announcing that the second in
+authority there, the major of the troops, was on his
+road, by the concurrence of the Chilian government,
+to relieve him. This major arrived <ins class="corr" id="TN-5" title="Transcriber's Note&mdash;original text: abo t">about</ins>
+mid-day. It being evident that it would be only
+by getting a detachment away to-day to Leubu
+that the final abandonment of Molquilla could
+be accomplished on the morrow, all the mules
+that were on the spot were laden and forwarded;
+and about 2 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> the captain, with Mr. Sarjeant,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">[97]</span>
+the major, and six men, quitted the now dismantled
+camp for the Leubu; having previously
+appointed a strong rear-guard, under the third
+lieutenant, Mr. W. K. Stephens, with Mr. Rouse,
+the Consul, consisting of a full quarter-watch,
+twelve marines, the surgeon, Mr. Mould, the
+second master, a mate, and a midshipman, to
+guard the few remaining stores, and to proceed
+as early as possible the next day to join our new
+camp. Great was the satisfaction felt by all at
+quitting a spot the scene of which embittered
+every recollection. The Captain and officers, on
+clearing the wreck, had got on shore the remains
+of their cabin furniture, which proved very acceptable
+presents to the governor and Chilino
+party, the late earthquake having destroyed the
+little they could previously boast of. The journey
+to the Leubu began by passing the promontory
+along the beach, on the north, to a distance of
+three leagues; then up an abrupt grassy slope
+to a thick forest of very old timber, ascending
+through it, for a mile and a half or two miles, to
+an open level country, from two to three leagues,
+covered with several species of dwarf myrtles
+and coarse grass, to a second and third patch of
+wood, and eventually to a short steep descent to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">[98]</span>
+a swamp, the western side of which skirted the
+slope and hill on which was situated our Leubu
+encampment: seventeen or eighteen miles was
+considered the whole distance.</p>
+
+<p><i>June 8.</i>—Southern bank of the entrance of
+the Rio Leubu. Fair weather, with light <span class="allsmcap">S.E.</span>
+winds. The whole number of cargoes that were
+transported from Molquilla were 279 mule and
+61 bullock-loads. The situation of our present
+encampment was the direct opposite of the last.
+From a flat deep sand, we were now on a steep
+declivity in the niche of a thick wood; the soil
+greasy and slippery, and in wet weather it was
+difficult to preserve a footing. The river Leubu
+ran into a bay about 200 yards below us. The
+system which had been practised at Molquilla
+was adhered to here; the men being carefully
+mustered every night at sunset, and their arms
+reported ready for immediate use: sentinels
+being placed at different points of the camp to
+prevent any Indian from entering it. Our tents
+were now reduced in size, and therefore more
+numerous. The crew was divided into one large
+tent, and ten small circular ones; four or five of
+the latter form being allotted for the captain and
+officers. The consul had brought a small tent
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">[99]</span>with him, one in which he had been some time
+living at Concepçion after the earthquake. In
+the course of the day the party from Molquilla
+arrived; and we were once more united in our
+full force, and confiding in a hope that from this
+spot we should, ere long, be relieved. Two of the
+seamen who had lost their way in the fog on the
+hills, during their march from Molquilla, also had
+come into the camp. We had felt a little uneasy
+about them, and two Chilino guides on horseback
+had been despatched in search of them.
+They had passed the night in the woods. A
+pet English sheep, which had been saved and
+carefully protected by many friends amongst
+the crew, had also moved with them. He
+marched with them half the distance, with a pair
+of saddle-bags, which his friends had made for
+him, across his back, containing a supply, as
+Jack termed it, of provisions for his journey: on
+becoming tired, he was carried on a horse to his
+journey’s end. The evident intelligence displayed
+by this animal, on first landing from the
+raft, was very striking; he no sooner got on the
+beach than, turning to the wreck, he bleated in
+a most unusual and extraordinary manner. He
+had no fear of the Indian dogs, and would attack<span class="pagenum" id="Page_100">[100]</span>
+any that offered to come into the camp. His
+daily custom was to attend the grog tub, and he
+was sure of collecting a dinner from all quarters.
+“Jack,” as he was called by his <em>messmates</em>,
+was a Southdown sheep, taken from Portsmouth
+in 1833, as part of the Captain’s live stock. After
+passing over above 55,000 miles, in the course of
+two years, he was landed from the Conway, with
+the Challenger’s crew, at Portsmouth in 1835;
+and has now a run on his native soil for the
+remainder of his life.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i109" style="max-width: 50em;">
+  <a href="images/i109.jpg"><img class="w100" src="images/i109.jpg" alt="A view of a coastal camp from across a river."></a>
+  <figcaption><p class="center">VIEW OF THE LEİİBU CAMP FROM THE NORTH BANK OF THE RIVER.</p>
+<p class="right"><i>C Hullmandel’s Lithography</i></p></figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>The weather, which had so long befriended
+us, now began to threaten with those heavy
+rains, the effects of which we were afterwards to
+feel so severely; the tents proving very inadequate
+to protect us from them. The evening
+cleared the weather, and a bright moon was
+visible. The note of the horned plover was
+loudly heard. In allusion to this bird, we were
+told by the major, Signor Sylva, who had been on
+many expeditions against the Indians, that they
+had a superstition regarding the horned plover;
+which was, that if the note was heard on the
+right, it was to them a bad omen, and the contrary
+if heard on the left. The inmates of
+each tent had worked hard during the past day,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_101">[101]</span>
+to discover the means of keeping off the damp
+from below, as well as from above.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tuesday, June 9.</i>—Squally weather, with
+showers of rain; the wind <span class="allsmcap">N.W.</span> A few Indians
+made their appearance at the camp, bringing,
+tied to their saddles, some nets of potatoes and
+apples for barter: also Rafael Lobo, with a present
+to the captain of some avellanos (a species
+of nut, the kernels of which the Indians roast,
+and are not unlike a small chesnut); and to establish
+a claim of some reward, for having given
+us his protection and assistance against the hostile
+Indians at Molquillo, as he then had assumed
+the command of the armed Indians, and had
+sent spies out to the southward. The seine,
+which had been carefully preserved, and brought
+to the Leubu, was this day tried in the river, but
+with no great success. At night, we afterwards
+found the attempts were more productive of
+luck. The few fish we caught were highly acceptable.
+The crew’s employment for this day
+was draining the ground round their tents; a
+party bringing stones from the beach at the entrance
+of the river, to lay as a footpath through
+the camp,—the rain having rendered it almost
+impossible to walk, from the swampy state of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">[102]</span>
+ground; and in cutting down trees to form a barricade
+round the encampment. The greatest
+regularity was observed in the hours of breakfast,
+dinner, supper; and such issues of provisions
+made as the state of our store-tent, and
+the destruction of the mice, would permit. We
+had brought the ship’s bell with us, which was
+under the charge of the sentinel posted at the
+entrance of our camp, and who struck it regularly
+on receiving the time from the officer on
+guard. The lights in the ship’s company’s tents
+were reported as put out every night at 8,
+and the midshipmen and warrant officers’ at 9.
+None of the crew were allowed to go outside
+the barricade after 6 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> Having some spare
+canvass, with abundance of timber surrounding
+us, two tents were put up in the form of a house,
+with a good sloping roof, which we covered, and
+used, one as a mess tent for the Captain and
+officers, the other for the warrant officers and
+midshipmen. This description of tent we found
+superior in point of dryness to the usual form,
+and, after a short interval, others were put up
+by the officers: one was occupied by the captain,
+and shared with Mr. Sarjeant; and in another
+were four or five of the officers. However,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_103">[103]</span>
+though each day saw some of us endeavouring
+to give dryness to our habitation, the damp and
+wet proved unconquerable.</p>
+
+<p>Signor Sylva made himself very useful to us,
+whenever his authority with the Chilinos or
+friendly Indians was called for. He expressed
+great satisfaction at being associated with British
+officers after a service of twenty-three years, a
+part of which time he had been campaigning
+against the Araucanian Indians. He related to
+us many histories of their undaunted courage,
+as well as some cruel acts of treachery which
+they had been guilty of towards the Chilinos,
+by deceiving them in an assurance of a friendly
+disposition towards Chili. The information
+which Signor Sylva gave, together with that
+from other sources, put the Indian population
+at about 40,000: scattered over a vast tract
+of country, mustering 8000 fighting men, but
+rarely bringing against the Chilinos more than
+from 2000 to 3000 at any one time.</p>
+
+<p>On examining and taking an account of our
+stores, baggage, and provisions, the cunning of
+the Indians proved to have been too much for
+us. We discovered that there had been a great
+number of articles plundered on the road from<span class="pagenum" id="Page_104">[104]</span>
+Molquilla, particularly clothing and small parcels
+of private property. They had also attempted
+to secrete a cask of spirits, by dropping
+it in the woods, and not making their appearance
+at the camp. We, however, sent a party
+out, and, with a few mules, found the rum, and
+brought it away in small barrels.</p>
+
+<p>On a high headland, immediately above the
+camp, we erected a flag-staff, on which we kept
+a flag constantly flying, and a strict look-out to
+seaward. This hill had a commanding view,
+not only of the sea, but over the surrounding
+country, including the river and camp; and was
+peculiarly adapted to our purpose, as a spot to
+establish our look-out. The ascent to it from
+the camp was abrupt and laborious, though only
+at a short distance. It was to be got at more
+easily by making a little circuit through the
+wood in the rear of us. The timber which composed
+the forests with which we were encircled
+was principally myrtle and evergreen oaks, and
+of great variety. Large tracts of land were
+free from timber; and the soil was filled with
+various bulbous roots, several specimens of
+grasses, abundance of strawberry plants, and an
+infinity of flowering shrubs and creepers.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_105">[105]</span></p>
+
+<p>The lateness of the season unfortunately prevented
+our seeing in flower much of what has
+been enumerated. On the north side of the
+river a plain extended to the hills, on which
+were several patches of maize growing, and a
+herd of horses and a few sheep grazing. Two
+Indian huts were also situated there, the inmates
+of which attended to the care of the stock and
+labour of the cultivated parts.</p>
+
+<p>This plain was rented by a Chilian of Arauco
+from the Indian proprietor. The land is exceedingly
+rich; and, whenever the time arrives that
+Chili is able to extend her authority over the
+Indian territory, the result of even a moderate
+attention to agricultural pursuits must prove
+most beneficial. At present, the system pursued
+by the Chilian farmer, who is fully alive
+to the value of the Indian land, is, by fair
+means and persuasion, or bribery, to induce the
+caciques to allow him to rent his land, which
+they do for a mere trifle; the only use now
+made of it is as a run, for the increase of
+their cattle, which is the most important part
+of a Chilian land-owner’s property,—a Chilino’s
+riches being estimated in proportion to
+the number of cattle he possesses. The price<span class="pagenum" id="Page_106">[106]</span>
+of a bullock is about sixteen dollars. The
+policy of the government of Chili appears to
+be, to exterminate the race of Indians, and get
+forcible possession of the whole country south
+of their present frontier. In some instances
+the caciques have allowed a sale of a portion of
+their land, on obtaining the consent of their
+neighbours; but there exists a great jealousy of
+their doing so. The mice continued their destructive
+and annoying visits.</p>
+
+<p>The morning after our first detachment had
+reached the banks of the Rio Leubu, one of the
+boys, furnished with a tin pot, sought out a
+spring of fresh water, which ran at the foot of
+the slope on which we were entrenching ourselves,
+for the purpose of drinking. An Indian
+rode up, and earnestly supplicated, by signs, his
+desire to drink. The boy handed the tin to him,
+which he no sooner got possession of, than he
+turned his horse, galloped off, and, swimming
+the river, was soon lost sight of amongst the
+opposite hills. At Molquilla, many articles
+thrown from the wreck, when washed on shore,
+were taken off the beach, under the ponchos of
+the Indians. The cunning mode in which they
+loaded themselves was very characteristic: they<span class="pagenum" id="Page_107">[107]</span>
+were seen to get off their horses, and lay down
+by the side of the longed-for object, which they
+gradually gathered up under their ponchos, and
+secured possession of by mounting their horses
+and galloping off to the hills.</p>
+
+<p><i>Wednesday, June 10.</i>—Fair quiet weather:
+the crew employed in strengthening our barricade,
+draining the camp, cutting wood, and
+drying their beds and clothing. The damp from
+the ground in our tents was very great, and some
+few complaints of rheumatism were heard. At
+6 30′ <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> we had a very severe shock of an
+earthquake. We saw but few Indians at our
+present camp, as compared with the numbers
+who used to surround us at Molquilla. As
+duty permitted, the officers were allowed to go
+out with their guns, by which we benefited in a
+supply of game for our mess, which was highly
+acceptable; and the important objects of a diversion
+of mind and health were gained by exercise
+over the surrounding country. We began
+to feel uneasy at not hearing, from some quarter,
+of a chance of relief; but we had been told by
+our friend Mr. Rouse, the Consul, on his first
+joining us, that we ought to make up our minds
+to pass the winter where we were, knowing the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_108">[108]</span>
+impassable state of the country at this season of
+the year lying between us and Concepçion, as
+well as Santiago; and hence a difficulty of communication
+with those to whom we might look
+for succour. At noon, a party of officers crossed
+the river in a balsa, which had been brought by
+the consul, with the hope of its being useful to
+us. They shot over the country north of us with
+tolerable success. Amongst the occupations for
+the crew, was the construction of a pier or wharf
+at the entrance of the river, by filling up the
+space between some scattered rocks; and intended
+to facilitate our embarkation, whenever
+that wished-for event might occur. The look-out
+hill was kept constantly occupied, and reports
+made regularly from it by the midshipmen
+stationed there. The mice continued most troublesome:
+the little bread we had left decreased
+every night from their visits, as well as our
+supply of sugar and peas; nor did the tents or
+clothing escape. It was difficult to get sleep at
+night in consequence of their rambles. No
+plan could prevent their getting into our beds,
+not even when raised on stakes, or in a cot slung
+off the ground. Their feet were formed like a
+lizard’s, and enabled them to climb in all directions,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_109">[109]</span>
+and along the smallest line or bough of a
+tree. Covered mole buttons seemed greatly to
+attract them, and one night would suffice them
+to run off with any number. In our inquiries
+of the natives, and others around us, as to the
+cause of such myriads of mice, we were told
+that the Indians supposed it originated from the
+effects of the late earthquake; having a tradition
+of a similar result on a former convulsion of the
+earth. Our supplies of potatoes and poultry were
+become scanty, from having consumed all that
+the immediate neighbourhood could furnish; it
+was become necessary to send to a distance for
+what could be collected. Don Bernardino procured
+for us two bullocks. The produce of our
+guns often formed a large part of our dinner: we
+were quite safe from want, having a good supply
+of salt beef and pork; our bread was, however,
+almost consumed, and we could only serve out
+to all one quarter of the daily allowance (a
+quarter of a pound). This shortly failed us, and
+potatoes became the substitute.</p>
+
+<p><i>June 12.</i>—The wind southerly, and fine weather.
+The crew airing clothing and beds, completing
+our pier, cutting wood for the cooks, and clearing
+the camp. A party of the officers shot over the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_110">[110]</span>
+country surrounding us, to the southward, with
+tolerable success; bringing in several partridges,
+snipes, and a few widgeons. At 5 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> the captain
+received, by way of Arauco, through the
+governor there, a letter from Lieutenant Collins,
+stating his inability to procure any vessel to come
+to our relief, and his intention to take an opportunity
+of returning with his guide to rejoin us at
+the Leubu, as he could get no intelligence whatever
+relative to the movements of any man-of-war
+on the coast. This was disheartening; but,
+as letters had been despatched to Santiago, we
+hoped, through the medium of the Chilian government,
+soon to have some satisfactory communication.
+Towards evening, after the usual
+muster of the arms had been gone through, a
+tolerably successful haul of the seine was got.</p>
+
+<p><i>June 13.</i>—The morning cloudy, the wind
+northerly; the tents very damp: a few small fires
+were lighted in, and at the entrance of, some of
+them, to endeavour to dry them. The caciques
+Cheuquante and Rafael Lobo paid us a visit to see
+what they could get from us, bringing an offering
+of some avellanos, which was their usual <em>bait</em>.
+They gave us the account of Pinoleo having
+killed the wife we saw at Molquilla. We this<span class="pagenum" id="Page_111">[111]</span>
+day received the two boat cannonades, which we
+had dismounted, and put in charge of some of
+the Chilino party, to be dragged over to us by
+four bullocks: they were now mounted one at
+each end of our encampment. The crew variously
+employed, cutting wood and stacking it on
+the flag-staff hill for signal-fires, and about the
+barricade round the camp. A small vessel was
+this day seen, from the hill, in the offing, passing
+to the southward. The weather, towards night,
+became dark and threatening, and the wind fresh
+in gusts from the northward.</p>
+
+<p><i>June 14.</i>—Strong winds from the northward,
+with heavy rain, which continued throughout
+the day, wetting the tents very much and causing
+excessive damp. The people employed in
+endeavouring to make better shelter for themselves.
+At 5 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> less rain, but moist and
+foggy: a good deal of surf falling into the bay
+below us outside the river. In the evening,
+mustered as usual. The weather cleared towards
+night, but continued to threaten more rain.</p>
+
+<p><i>June 15.</i>—Heavy rain during the night; wind
+about <span class="allsmcap">N.N.W.</span>, 8 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> The weather clearing,
+the Captain wrote a letter, which was forwarded
+to Concepçion, through the governor of Arauco,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_112">[112]</span>
+by a Chilino going in that direction, addressed
+to the senior or any naval officer; stating our
+situation, the ill success of Lieutenant Collins in
+hiring a vessel, and begging immediate relief.
+Repaired our flag on the hill, which the strong
+wind had blown away. As the weather permitted,
+all hands airing and drying clothes and
+bedding. The mice very troublesome, though
+we calculated that we destroyed at least 500
+daily. The weather became squally towards the
+evening, with rain, thunder, and lightning.</p>
+
+<p><i>June 16.</i>—A bright morning, which was
+gladly hailed by all, and eager advantage taken
+of it to air and dry the numerous wet articles
+throughout the camp. Our small boat, the
+Dingy, had been dragged over from Molquilla,
+and was of great use on the river. It accidentally
+got adrift to-day, with a man in her, who,
+without the paddles, was carried past the entrance
+of the river, by the rapid current setting
+out, and narrowly escaped being dashed to pieces,
+by the surf, on the rocks outside: she was,
+however, secured eventually without any bad
+result.</p>
+
+<p>Mustered under arms at sunset; discharged
+and reloaded them, as well as the cannonades.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_113">[113]</span>
+At 6 30′ <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> Lieutenant Collins arrived, with a
+guide, on the opposite side of the river, whence
+we sent the balsa, and brought him over. The
+only information he brought was, a report that
+a man-of-war was expected at Valparaiso, where
+she would hear of our disaster, and, doubtless,
+take steps for our immediate succour. Several
+rats, of the opossum species, were seen about
+the camp, and a young one taken.</p>
+
+<p><i>June 17.</i>—Fine weather; the wind light and
+variable. Employed the crew in various ways;
+drying clothes, cutting wood, and ditching to
+drain the ground in front of the camp. A strong
+shooting party started over the hills above us, to
+the southward. At 8 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>, the officer of the
+watch having reported that five guns were heard
+to seaward, and being ever anxious to attract
+the attention of any one passing near, to show our
+position, we fired five shot from our cannonades,
+accompanying each with a rocket, and lighted a
+large fire on the hill, where we also burnt a blue
+light: nothing, however, was seen, though many
+of us ran to the hill, in all haste, to discover
+the supposed sail; we therefore concluded that
+the noise of the sea on the rocks, below the hill,
+might have given rise to the mistake.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_114">[114]</span></p>
+
+<p><i>June 18.</i>—Fine weather, with light variable
+winds. All hands employed in airing and drying
+bedding, &amp;c., and as otherwise necessary.
+A party were despatched to reconnoitre the state
+of the wreck, which was found much displaced,
+from the effects of the late gales; and the flat,
+on which our camp had stood, showed marks of
+having been much overflowed. Many Indians
+were searching round the wreck, and stared hard
+at our party: they had their horses ready to decamp.
+Nothing in sight from our look-out hill.
+The glories of Waterloo were this day not forgotten
+by us, even in this wild and distant spot;
+the health of the Duke of Wellington being
+drank, with cheers, in the officers’ tent. Our
+companion, Signor Sylva, the Chilian major of
+Arauco, had heard of Napoleon and of the
+Duke of Wellington, and was quite eloquent on
+this occasion.</p>
+
+<p><i>June 19.</i>—Fine morning; wind variable.
+Mustered; examined, and took an account of
+the ship’s company’s clothing and bedding. The
+store-tent was this day examined, and an attack
+made on the mice. A shooting party went out
+to try the ground on the south bank of the
+Leubu; which, about a league from the entrance,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_115">[115]</span>
+begins to be thickly wooded on each
+side, presenting some very picturesque windings.
+On the tops of the hills overhanging the river,
+the views, inland, are very extended; and ranges
+of hills can be traced, till lost amongst the chain
+of the Andes; but not a vestige of a habitation
+is to be seen. A Chilino was detected, to-day, in
+attempting to introduce a strong spirit, peculiar
+to the province of Arauco, into the camp; and,
+knowing the threat which the Captain had, through
+Signor Sylva, held out against such a transaction,
+attempted to make his escape across the
+river; but his horse, being tired, failed him: the
+skin of spirits was, therefore, taken possession of,
+and emptied in the mud. Nothing in sight from
+the hill. The bay below us being smooth, the
+Dingy was sent out to sound, and found a depth
+of water for anchorage from nineteen to five
+fathoms, in a direction between the two points
+which formed it. The seine was hauled outside
+the river, and several fine fish, of the carbinu
+tribe, taken.</p>
+
+<p><i>June 20.</i>—Dark and cloudy weather, with
+showers of rain. Employed the ship’s company
+in making a road to the pier, laying on stones,
+and ditching it on each side. Though our sick<span class="pagenum" id="Page_116">[116]</span>
+list had happily continued low in number, there
+were many amongst the crew who were suffering
+from rheumatic attacks, the effects of the constant
+exposure to damp. Another reconnoisance
+was made of the wreck, which continued much
+as it had been in the former visit. Many Indians,
+strangers to us, from the southward, were
+engaged in examining it. The annoyance of the
+mice continued incessant, frequently obliging
+the crew to rise in the night to drive them from
+their beds, and preventing the possibility of getting
+rest. A few fish were again taken in the
+evening. At night, the weather moderate and
+cloudy: wind <span class="allsmcap">N.W.</span></p>
+
+<p><i>June 21.</i>—Cloudy, foggy morning. Mustered
+the crew by the open list. The Consul despatched
+a man to Concepçion, <i>viâ</i> Arauco, with
+letters. A brig hove in sight this morning from
+the signal-post; but, though we used all our endeavours
+to attract her attention, they were unsuccessful;
+and we had the disappointment of
+losing sight of her at dusk. The night promised
+to be calm and quiet.</p>
+
+<p><i>June 22.</i>—Moderate and cloudy weather,
+with an appearance of rain: the wind northerly.
+The crew employed road-making, and clearing<span class="pagenum" id="Page_117">[117]</span>
+up our camp. The Captain and a party of officers
+crossed the river; rode to the opposite
+point of the bay, to see a curious cavern, known
+to the Indians as having formerly given shelter
+to the notorious pirate and rebel, Benivedes,
+and his party, and who were for some time succoured
+by them against the wrath of the Chilian
+forces. The road to this cave was a difficult
+one, through an almost impassable wood, and
+down a steep declivity from the hills above it.
+It was large, and sufficiently spacious to contain
+1000 or 1500 men.</p>
+
+<p>The party, on their return, visited the Indians
+in the huts on the plain north of the river; and
+succeeded, under the authority and assistance of
+Sylva, in extracting from them a couple of fine
+turkeys, with which they returned to the camp:
+they sat some time in the huts, and got some
+well-roasted potatoes from the inmates. A mother,
+half naked, was suckling her naked infant;
+and poultry and dogs were moving about in all
+directions: a pile of maize straw was heaped, in
+a particular form, on one side, which appeared
+to be the sleeping place for the whole party, and
+common to all, and very dirty. The influence
+of Don Bernardino had procured us the luxury<span class="pagenum" id="Page_118">[118]</span>
+of milk; several cows having been driven down
+and swam across the river, and established at the
+huts immediately below our encampment, near
+the entrance of the Leubu, in one of which
+resided the old Indian proprietor of the ground
+which we were on.</p>
+
+<p><i>June 23.</i>—It blew a gale of wind from the
+northward during the night, with heavy rain,
+causing a good deal of surf to roll into the bay.
+It continued raining hard till towards the evening,
+when it became foggy, with less wind.
+The crew suffered much from the wet state of
+their tents and clothing, and the confinement
+occasioned by the rains. The want of warm
+clothing was much felt: every possible substitute
+was resorted to; one of which was, the turning
+the blankets of those who were fortunate enough
+to possess one into ponchos, by putting the
+head through a hole cut in the middle, and
+which, with the addition of a belt, was the
+usual dress of the sentinels and watch.</p>
+
+<p>An occasional visit was made to our old Indian
+landlord, the landed proprietor over many
+miles of land around us: his family consisted of
+eight or ten in number of either sex, subject to
+his control; they lived in what appeared to us<span class="pagenum" id="Page_119">[119]</span>
+great misery, dirt, and smoke, with mud outside
+their hut a foot deep. A little ground
+maize, some shell fish, or potatoes, appeared
+to form their food. Several small patches of
+ground were cleared and tilled by them for
+raising grain and potatoes; but during our stay
+little attention was paid to these objects. Indolence
+is certainly allied to the character of the
+Indian. The old proprietor was never met
+without receiving from him the friendly sentence
+of salutation of “Mai, mai;” and in
+his manner, he appeared to have a great respect
+towards us. Our tents felt the gale very much,
+and the rain penetrated on all sides. The bay
+was also rough and unquiet, with a good deal of
+surf breaking on the beach. The evening was
+cloudy, with rain. At 11 30′ <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> we were joyfully
+surprised by a hail from the opposite bank
+of the river in our own language, which elated all
+with a hope, that the time had now arrived when
+we might look for the means of at length abandoning
+our tedious and comfortless encampment.
+The Dingy was immediately launched, and
+passed over to the north side, and returned with
+Captain Fitzroy, of his Majesty’s sloop Beagle,
+a German pilot, a servant, and their guide.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_120">[120]</span>
+Captain Fitzroy, to whom we owe a debt of
+great gratitude for his zealous exertions in our
+behalf, had arrived at Concepçion in his Majesty’s
+ship Blonde, Commodore Mason, C. B.,
+and had volunteered to come overland, and take
+back to the commodore a report of our situation.
+The state of weather, and season of the
+year, had rendered his journey difficult and
+perilous, from the unusually flooded state of
+several rivers which he had to pass on his route.
+He had experienced many falls, from the difficulty
+of preserving the path through the woods
+in the dark, during the latter part of his journey.</p>
+
+<p>We now heard that the Commodore had arrived
+at Concepçion on the 20th, from Valparaiso,
+where our disaster had only been known
+on the 17th, a month after the event: that
+he had hired, to despatch to our relief, an American
+schooner (the Carmen) from Concepçion,
+and that we might expect to see her off the
+Leubu in the course of a few days. We did
+our best to find supper, a sleeping place, and
+dry clothes for Captain Fitzroy and his companions.
+It is not to be sufficiently expressed
+how much joy and cheerfulness was at once diffused
+throughout the camp.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_121">[121]</span></p>
+
+<p>Our relief we now looked forward to as near
+at hand.</p>
+
+<p><i>June 24.</i>—It rained hard during the night,
+but towards morning it cleared off. After examining
+the state of our situation, and consulting
+with Captain Seymour as to the expediency
+of the Blonde’s immediately proceeding to our
+assistance, Captain Fitzroy set off without delay
+on his journey, to return to Concepçion, and
+was fortunately favoured by an interval of fine
+weather.</p>
+
+<p>Our sick list had increased but little; yet it
+was evident that many amongst the crew, as well
+as officers, were suffering greatly from the constant
+exposure to wet and damp. That it was
+not more felt is a matter of surprise: happily we
+had enough food and spirits, though our bread
+had failed us; and we had saved a cask of tobacco,
+which permitted smoking to be generally
+practised by all of us, and the benefit which
+arose from it was evidently great. The crew
+were employed in cutting and stacking wood
+for signal fires on the hill above the camp,
+and in drying clothes and clearing the camp: a
+party also thatching, with boughs of trees, the
+sentry boxes, to afford the men some shelter<span class="pagenum" id="Page_122">[122]</span>
+from the weather. We this morning received
+a report that the Indians had set fire to the
+wreck, and that it had burnt to the water’s edge.
+Towards night the weather became cloudy, with
+showers of rain.</p>
+
+<p><i>June 25.</i>—Hard rain during the night, but
+clearing since daylight. Signor Sylva, who had
+rendered himself of use in all cases where
+his authority was necessary, this day took his
+departure for Arauco, with our consent that he
+should do so; his presence now with us not
+being of sufficient consequence to detain him
+longer from his command at Aruaco: the influence
+of Mr. Rouse, the Consul, still with us,
+ensuring on all occasions the countenance and
+aid of the Chilian government, if wanted. Our
+friend Sylva found our rum particularly cordial
+to his taste, and his desire to have a small supply
+for his journey was granted. The crew was
+employed in drying bedding, &amp;c., and scrubbing
+hammocks. We received a supply of potatoes,
+and a few cheeses, which we found very acceptable.
+Nothing in sight from the hills. The
+seine was hauled in the river, but without success.
+Erected a hut on the hill near the flag-staff,
+for the shelter of the party who were<span class="pagenum" id="Page_123">[123]</span>
+now posted regularly there throughout the night,
+to keep the signal fires supplied with fuel.
+Three midshipmen were permanently established
+in this hut, which was large enough to
+hold the party of men who joined them every
+evening, at dusk, to arrange the fires. Some of
+the officers, who were rambling over the hills
+above the camp, discovered the skulls and skeletons
+of several Indians. They were accounted
+for by the Chilians, as some of the many who
+fell in the time of the rebel Benivedes, who,
+with the Indians to assist him, had made this
+neighbourhood the scene of many battles against
+the Chilinos.</p>
+
+<p><i>June 26.</i>—It rained throughout the night,
+and drenched the camp, causing most serious
+discomfort to the sick and invalids. Two officers
+were despatched to ascertain the truth of
+the report of the burning the wreck, which was
+confirmed on their return, scarcely a vestige remaining.
+The force of the surf had washed up
+on the beach several of the tanks, which the Indians
+were examining. The crew employed in
+drying and airing clothes and bedding. The
+mice continued their destructive attacks on us.
+At 5 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> a sail was reported to be in sight<span class="pagenum" id="Page_124">[124]</span>
+from the hill in the <span class="allsmcap">N.N.W.</span> direction, and
+there existed little doubt that it was the schooner
+Carmen, on her way to find us. Most unfortunately,
+the weather becoming foggy and
+squally, she was soon lost sight of, and our only
+hope of attracting her attention was by making
+large fires, which was immediately done, and
+kept burning all night, but with ill success. A
+fine condor was shot by one of the midshipmen
+on the hill. It was one of several which were
+constantly hovering over our camp. Some of
+our sick began to exhibit symptoms of fever, and
+caused us to feel an increasing anxiety to be relieved;
+for we could not ensure a dry bed for a
+sick person, and the surgeon was much abridged
+in the necessary medicines. At sunset, mustered
+under arms. The night squally, with hard rain.</p>
+
+<p><i>June 27.</i>—Continued heavy rain, with thunder
+and lightning, causing the greatest possible
+discomfort to us; the weather so bad, that the
+crew could be employed only in their tents, and
+were suffering much from the wet. The fires
+had, with great difficulty, been kept burning
+during the night. The evening still dark,
+cloudy, and threatening.</p>
+
+<p><i>June 28.</i>—No improvement in the weather,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_125">[125]</span>
+the rain falling heavily. Our camp in a deplorable
+condition, and the crew prevented from
+employment and exercise. The sick not improving,
+and several instances of despondency
+amongst them. The night promising no prospect
+of fairer weather.</p>
+
+<p><i>June 29.</i>—Wind <span class="allsmcap">N.W.</span> and <span class="allsmcap">N.</span> Still raining,
+and with no appearance of its clearing.
+Our camp in a worse state than ever, and
+our situation becoming hourly more serious and
+anxious, from our want of comfort and protection
+for the sick, whose numbers were increasing.
+Towards evening it rained less heavily, and the
+crew were employed in cutting fire-wood for the
+cooks and the hill. At night it was dark and
+cloudy, with a dense fog.</p>
+
+<p><i>June 30.</i>—Wind northerly and <span class="allsmcap">N.W.</span> Drizzling
+rain, with fog: nothing in sight from
+the hill. The necessity of drying clothes and
+bedding had become so great, that the crew were
+employed in lighting large fires in the neighbouring
+wood, to endeavour to effect this object; and,
+though a novel one, and in a damp fog, it succeeded
+tolerably well. The officers could not
+now stroll far, and our supply of game was at an
+end. Occasional visits to the Indian hut below<span class="pagenum" id="Page_126">[126]</span>
+us were sometimes paid. To day, our little old
+Indian proprietor was squatted before his fire in
+the centre of his hut, which was full of smoke,
+poultry, and dogs, making a net, for holding potatoes
+or apples, out of strips of coarse rushes,
+that grow abundantly in the neighbourhood. A
+native of Arauco rents of him land to the extent
+of from 4000 to 6000 acres, for the value of ten
+dollars annually; used as a run for a few horses
+and cattle, but liable to a visit from the more
+southern or hostile Indians. Two or three of
+the grown up females usually paid a daily visit to
+a spring situated in the wood joining our camp,
+with calabashes, and aided each other in washing
+their heads and hair, to which they appeared to
+pay great attention; a considerable time being
+occupied in the <em>examination</em> and arrangement of
+the back hair, which was dark and very long,
+bound up in the form of the old-fashioned queue,
+with a band comprised of coloured worsted
+threads, and allowed to hang down the back, and
+terminating with many little ornaments of brass
+or glass beads. Mustered, as usual. The
+weather dark and foggy.</p>
+
+<p><i>July 1. 1835.</i>—Wind northerly. The weather
+thick and misty. The crew had again recourse<span class="pagenum" id="Page_127">[127]</span>
+to lighting large fires in the wood, to dry their
+bedding and clothes. Nothing yet in sight from
+our look-out. Our sick list numbered about
+eleven, who were seriously ill, but many more
+were complaining from rheumatism; but the
+hope, which was kept alive, of our being succoured
+made them bear their pains patiently. Mustered
+our arms as usual, and prepared and lighted the
+signal fires on the hills. The evening proved
+dark and foggy.</p>
+
+<p><i>July 2.</i>—Wind <span class="allsmcap">N.W.</span> and <span class="allsmcap">N.</span> The weather
+remained thick, with rain at times. Nothing
+visible in the offing: and our hope of
+seeing the schooner at an end. As the weather
+permitted, the crew were occupied in preparing
+wood for the camp and hill fires. A supply of
+potatoes arrived from the northward for us, and
+proved most seasonable, as our stock was nearly
+exhausted. One addition was made to our sick
+list; Mr. Lane, the assistant surgeon, was
+amongst the seriously ill with fever. A portion
+of clothing, &amp;c., was dried by fire during the
+day. The weather cleared towards evening, and
+at intervals the moon was seen, which, for a
+length of time, with us, had been a rare occurrence.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_128">[128]</span></p>
+
+<p><i>July 3.</i>—Wind north-westerly and calm; the
+morning thick and foggy, but inclined to clear
+at times on the horizon at sea, with a prospect of
+better weather. At 1 30′ <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> two guns were
+distinctly heard from the look-out hill, by the
+captain and several officers who were there, in
+the south direction, and apparently not more
+distant than six or eight miles. Several of us
+walked along the cliff bordering on the sea, for
+some miles to the southward, watching anxiously
+for the weather to clear away, and discover a sail;
+but nothing was seen. The mice continued our
+enemies, and habit in their case did not overcome
+the annoyance they were to us; at night
+particularly, in disturbing our sleep. One of the
+sentinels was taken ill to-day on his post. No
+further increase of our sick list. A party of the
+officers gathered enough wild turnip-tops for our
+mess dinner, which proved very acceptable. At
+sunset, discharged arms and cannonade, and reloaded
+for the night. All anxiously looking for
+some relief. A part of our stock of blue lights
+was placed in the hut on the hill, in case they
+might be wanted as signals to any ship appearing
+at sea.</p>
+
+<p><i>July 4.</i>—Wind light and westerly. This<span class="pagenum" id="Page_129">[129]</span>
+was the first clear morning we had witnessed for
+many days, and it cheered us to see once again
+the sunshine. Some more turnip-tops were
+gathered for our dinner to-day on the hills; this,
+though apparently trifling, was in our situation
+very acceptable. Discharged arms as usual at
+sunset, and reloaded for the night.</p>
+
+<p>An altitude obtained to-day on the sand at
+the entrance of the Leubu gave us a latitude of
+37° 36′ S., which proved to be many miles
+north of our situation as shown on the old
+Spanish chart. A tolerable haul of fish was got
+outside the river. The crew busily employed in
+airing and drying their clothes and bedding, and
+in holding themselves prepared at any moment
+to embark; orders to that effect having been
+given for some days past, as well as preparations
+made for moving our baggage from the camp to
+the pier. The necessity of separating our sick
+from their companions, who were still in health,
+caused us to set about erecting a large hut in
+imitation of that of the Indians, endeavouring, if
+possible, to thatch it in a similar manner with
+the common rushes that grow in great abundance
+very near us, and thus afford to the sick
+shelter from the rains. To this end the united<span class="pagenum" id="Page_130">[130]</span>
+strength of our carpenters and the greater part
+of our crew was employed in felling trees of a
+convenient size to form uprights for the sides
+and rafters, for the purpose of a good sloping
+roof; cutting and collecting also the rushes for
+thatch; and so earnestly did we set about the
+work, that the whole frame of the hut, which
+was secured together with strands of rope-yarns,
+was near its completion by the evening. Several
+flocks of parrots visited us this morning, and
+continued their flight and noise round our
+camp for some hours: two of them were shot.
+Don Bernardino complained to us of the difficulty
+he found in getting a supply of potatoes,
+arising from the great distance they had to be
+brought, and in many instances the ravages
+committed on the crops by the mice. Our sick
+list remained stationary; several of the crew
+were in a weak state, and with the assistant-surgeon
+and three midshipmen were most
+seriously ill, with what now looked like typhus
+fever. At sunset went through our daily muster;
+the weather cloudy, but dry; wind light
+and variable.</p>
+
+<p><i>July 5</i>.—The wind light from the southward,
+and the weather clear. At 7 30′ <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_131">[131]</span>
+sail was reported in sight from the look-out on
+the hill: this joyful sound opened the ears of
+all; and when, after a most anxious examination,
+through the few glasses we possessed, she was
+pronounced to be a man-of-war, it was received
+by a cheer throughout the camp, and every
+heart expanded with joy at the gladdening
+prospect at length opened to us. Large fires
+were lighted on the hill, and all possible demonstration
+made to show our position. About
+10 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> we had the satisfaction of making out
+His Majesty’s ship Blonde, and observing her
+hoist her colours, and fire two guns as a signal
+that we were seen. Orders were now given to
+prepare for embarkation; all hands were therefore
+employed in removing to the pier our
+heavy baggage, in which we were much expedited
+by our having made several sledges adapted to
+this purpose, and dragged by the crew. Towards
+noon four boats were seen to leave the
+Blonde, but the distance they had to row prevented
+their reaching our little landing place
+inside the entrance of the river until it was too
+late to risk any embarkation. The first boat
+that arrived brought our tried friend Captain
+Fitzroy, who, agreeing with Captain Seymour on<span class="pagenum" id="Page_132">[132]</span>
+the propriety of deferring our operations until
+daylight next morning, immediately returned
+to the Blonde to communicate to Commodore
+Mason the arrangement that had been made,
+fortunately getting to the ship soon after dark,
+taking with him a second boat’s crew of the
+Challenger’s men, to supply the place of those
+who were to remain on shore with the three
+boats, which we had hauled up on the banks of
+the Leubu, and secured for the night. Captain
+Seymour had also sent an officer with Captain
+Fitzroy, to give to the Commodore every information
+he might require as to our condition
+and readiness for embarkation.</p>
+
+<p>During the day there arrived on the north
+bank of the Leubu a guard of thirty infantry
+from Arauco, under the command of an officer,
+sent by the authorities there to be at our service:
+however, as most happily our period of encampment
+was about to be put an end to, they
+bivouacked on the opposite bank of the river, the
+officer crossing and taking up his quarters with
+us, and receiving our thanks for his exertions in
+our cause, and a letter from the Consul to the
+government authorities at Arauco, expressive of
+our warm acknowledgment for their kind attention<span class="pagenum" id="Page_133">[133]</span>
+towards us. Some showers of rain fell
+in the evening, but the night promised fair and
+clear weather.</p>
+
+<p><i>July 6.</i>—Wind <span class="allsmcap">S.E.</span>, with clear weather. Nothing
+could have happened more providentially
+for us than the favourable manner in which we
+were this day circumstanced with regard to
+the wind and weather, and which permitted the
+Blonde at 9 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> to anchor off the point below
+our signal hill. We had at daylight launched
+and loaded the Blonde’s three boats, and immediately
+despatched them; had struck the tents,
+lashed up our bedding and clothing, and brought
+all to the pier, ready to put into the boats as they
+arrived.</p>
+
+<p>Many of the sick were sent off in the fastest
+rowing boat of those which were first despatched.
+Towards the middle of the day, the
+Commodore landed and visited the remains of
+our camp, and by 6 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> every one, with the
+whole of our baggage, was embarked, the last
+two boats having taken off the Captain, Mr.
+Rouse the Consul, and five officers with the
+marines, who had, as consistent with our previous
+system of caution, been retained to the
+last as a rear-guard, and only discharged their<span class="pagenum" id="Page_134">[134]</span>
+muskets as they left the scene of our long and
+cheerless encampment.</p>
+
+<p>It can fall to the lot of few to experience the
+varied sensations occasioned by our sudden
+transition to a man-of-war, and our restoration
+to those comforts to which we had so long been
+strangers; allied, it is to be hoped, with thankful
+hearts to the Almighty for the abundant mercies
+vouchsafed towards us. We shall long cherish
+recollections of the very kind attentions paid by
+the officers of the Blonde to our wants and
+comforts. We were under weigh soon after dusk
+for Concepçion.</p>
+
+<p><i>July 7.</i>—When about to enter the port of
+Concepçion, we observed a schooner to leeward,
+under jury-masts: on going to her relief she
+proved to be the Carmen, which the Commodore
+had despatched from this port to our assistance.
+In her way to the Leubu, that river being incorrectly
+laid down in the chart, she had run
+past it; and having been dismasted in a heavy
+squall, and drifted into the current which had
+proved fatal to the Challenger, was for some
+time in danger of sharing her fate on the Isle of
+Mocha. The Blonde towed her into Talcuhuana
+Bay, where and at Concepçion we were eyewitnesses<span class="pagenum" id="Page_135">[135]</span>
+to the wide-spreading devastation occasioned
+by the late earthquake. The Commodore,
+with Captains Seymour and Fitzroy, made
+visits to the Chilian authorities at Concepçion,
+for the purpose of thanking them for the attentions
+and assistance we had experienced, connected
+with our shipwreck.</p>
+
+<p>An old English inhabitant of the city of
+Concepçion described the earthquake as having
+taken place at a time when he was in the street
+fronting his house, overlooking the labour of
+some workmen in building a wall that was to
+enclose it. It was a clear sunny morning, and
+about twenty minutes after eleven: he suddenly
+found himself unable to stand from the heaving
+of the earth, which increased so much that he
+fell to the ground; and there, on his knees and
+hands to steady himself, he remained in a dense
+cloud of dust, which precluded the possibility
+of seeing any of the surrounding objects, until
+the first dreadful shock had passed. The shrieks
+and cries of the inhabitants, which had accompanied
+the destruction of the city, continued to
+be heard far and near; and the scene which
+presented itself, on the clearing of the dust
+caused by the falling of the buildings, was one<span class="pagenum" id="Page_136">[136]</span>
+of the most appalling desolation. Parents and
+children, relations and friends, were searching
+for each other in that distraction of mind which
+terror, anxiety, and apprehension for their safety
+at such a calamitous moment created. Not a
+building remained standing of the late city of
+Concepçion: high and low, rich and poor, were
+mingled in an overwhelming destruction. The
+ruins of a church and a convent, erected by the old
+Spaniards on a most magnificent and substantial
+scale, and which had withstood for ages the frequent
+shocks of previous earthquakes, with which
+the southern continent of America is so peculiarly
+afflicted, were scattered on all sides, and presented
+to the beholder a most striking and fearful
+assurance of the vanity, as well as the instability,
+of all that is created by the hand of man.</p>
+
+<p>At Talcuhuana, the village which is situated
+on the border of the bay forming the anchorage
+for shipping, communicating with Concepçion,
+and about six miles from that city, the sea rose
+between thirty and forty feet, and came in, in
+one great wave immediately following the movement
+of the earth; landed a schooner at the
+back of the houses; and retiring, swept every
+thing before it; the inhabitants only escaping to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_137">[137]</span>
+the hills with their lives. Numerous articles
+were found on an island at the entrance of the
+bay of Talcuhuana, twelves miles distant from
+the village; and, most singular to relate, amongst
+them, lying on a sandy beach, was a large window
+frame, recognised by its owner, with the
+sash and glass unbroken. Several volcanos were
+seen to rise outside the bay, which, after burning
+with violence for twenty minutes or more,
+sank again below the surface of the water.</p>
+
+<p>Our informant was a man of seventy-five
+years, married, but had no family; he had experienced,
+in the course of his long life, the
+most severe reverses of fortune; and had retired
+from the coast of Peru, with the little resources
+his labours had allowed him to collect, to end
+his days on a small spot of ground he had purchased
+in the city of Concepçion. With the
+destruction of the city perished the greatest
+portion of his property; yet, despite of such a
+misfortune, there was visible that beautiful contentedness
+of mind which is alone to be derived
+from an acquiescence in whatever affliction the
+hand of the Almighty is pleased to send us. It
+must not be omitted to mention, that Mrs. ——,
+the wife of this gentleman, recovering from the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_138">[138]</span>
+panic of fear, got out from the ruins of their
+house a part of that day’s dinner, which was
+eaten, in thankfulness and tranquillity, under a
+tree in the court-yard adjoining the remains of
+their dwelling.</p>
+
+<p>The effects of this calamitous earthquake were
+not confined to the immediate neighbourhood of
+Concepçion, but were also particularly severe at
+the island of Juan Fernandez, distant 300 miles
+in a <span class="allsmcap">W.N.W.</span> direction. The sea, there, advanced
+as in Talcuhuana Bay, and totally destroyed the
+few buildings which were in the occupation of the
+military governor and Chilian garrison. On the
+sea retiring, a volcano rose in the anchorage,
+and continued burning for some time. It was
+also reported that the island had sunk many feet
+below its former level.</p>
+
+<p>The island of Santa Maria, situated near the
+spot of the Challenger’s wreck, was found, on
+examination, to have been upheaved ten feet;
+and the anchorage which had previously existed
+between it and the main land was no longer
+considered safe.</p>
+
+<p>On the 9th we sailed from Concepçion, taking
+leave of Mr. Rouse, our worthy Consul, who
+left us, carrying with him the warm esteem and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_139">[139]</span>
+respect of all. During the whole time since
+his entering into communication with us, we had
+benefited by his able services: added to his
+official tact, his urbanity and kind disposition
+had endeared him to all classes; and should his
+assistance be called for under a calamity similar
+to our own, the unfortunate will find an efficient
+friend in the British Consul at Concepçion.
+After touching at Valparaiso, where two of our
+sick companions were sent to sick quarters, and
+performing the melancholy duty of burying Mr.
+Lane, the assistant-surgeon, who had sunk under
+the effects of typhus fever, the officers and
+part of the Challenger’s crew embarked on board
+His Majesty’s ship Convoy at Coquimbo; whence
+we sailed on the 22d July, cheered by the
+Blonde, and our own pleasing anticipations of
+soon meeting the congratulations of our friends,
+and the sympathy of our generous countrymen.</p>
+
+<p>Including our stay of one week at Rio de
+Janeiro, we completed our passage to Spithead
+in eighty-four days, during which the inconveniences
+of a crowded ship were obviated by
+the attentions to our accommodation, and the
+arrangements kindly made by Captain Eden.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_140">[140]</span>
+Amongst the sick during this period, of whom
+the young gentlemen formed a large portion, Mr.
+Fry, a supernumerary clerk, died; the others,
+with a few exceptions, shortly became convalescent.</p>
+
+<p>The misfortune of the Challenger may not
+be without a moral bearing. Our costly experience
+may prove useful to future navigators
+upon this dangerous coast. With the civilised
+portion of the inhabitants of a country of growing
+commercial importance, the British character
+has been upheld; and the many relics of our
+disaster left with the rude natives, during our
+long sojourn amongst them, will tend to perpetuate
+the event; and in their remote traditions
+may figure, as a leading tale, the fate of the
+“Desafiador,” and the adventures of her crew
+on the plains of Molquilla.</p>
+
+<p>It remains but to add the result of the Court
+Martial, which was held on the 19th of October,
+on board His Majesty’s ship Victory, at Portsmouth
+harbour, by order of the Lords Commissioners
+of the Admiralty, for the trial of Captain
+Seymour, the officers, and crew of His Majesty’s
+late ship Challenger, for their conduct in the loss
+of that ship.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_141">[141]</span></p>
+
+<p>The sentence pronounced on that occasion,
+so honourable to the feelings of all, was as follows:—</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="noindent">“The Court is of opinion, that the cause of
+the loss of His Majesty’s late ship Challenger
+was by the ship being then by an unusual
+and unexpected current, set between
+noon of the 17th of May last to the time
+of her wreck, on the 19th of the same
+month, thirty-four miles of latitude to the
+southward, which latitude, by dead reckoning,
+up to the time of taking the sights,
+being used to work the sights of the chronometer,
+on the morning of the 19th of May,
+placed the ship sixty miles to the <span class="allsmcap">N.W.</span> of
+her actual position at that time. The
+Court is further of opinion, that no blame
+whatever is attached to Captain Michael
+Seymour, nor to the said John MacDonald,
+nor to any of the officers or ship’s company
+of His Majesty’s late ship Challenger, on the
+occasion of the loss of the said ship; and the
+Court doth therefore <em>fully acquit</em> the said
+Captain Michael Seymour, the said Mr.
+J. MacDonald, and the surviving officers
+and ship’s company of His Majesty’s said<span class="pagenum" id="Page_142">[142]</span>
+late ship Challenger, and they are hereby
+fully acquitted accordingly. The Court
+cannot close its proceedings without expressing
+the high sense it entertains of the
+conduct of Captain Michael Seymour, his
+surviving officers and ship’s company,
+when placed in circumstances of the greatest
+danger, as well as afterwards during a period
+of seven weeks that they remained on a
+wild and inhospitable coast, strongly marking
+the advantages of that steady discipline
+that has raised the British navy to the confidence
+of the country, and which, in this
+instance (as well as in many others), has
+been the cause of the preservation of the
+lives and health of the crew, and of their
+arrival, with two melancholy exceptions, in
+safety to their own country.”</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The President then rose and said, “Captain
+Seymour, I have much pleasure in returning you
+your sword, and may you continue to wear it
+with honour to yourself and advantage to your
+country.—Mr. MacDonald, I have equal pleasure
+in returning you yours.”</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_143">[143]</span></p>
+
+<p>The Court Martial excited a great degree of
+interest, in which sympathy for the officers and
+ship’s company of the Challenger for the hardships
+they had endured had a considerable
+share.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_145">[145]</span></p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_147">[147]</span></p>
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="APPENDIX">APPENDIX.</h2>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p class="nobreak center fs150">APPENDIX.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>At the encampment on the beach of Molquilla, in front
+of and near to the wreck of His Majesty’s ship Challenger,
+Michael Seymour, Esq., Captain, on the first
+day of June, 1835, at a meeting held by the undersigned
+captain and officers of His Majesty’s said
+ship, in the presence of Henry William Rouse, Esq.,
+His Majesty’s Consul in the province of Concepçion,
+to take into consideration the actual situation and
+condition of the said ship, the state of her remaining
+stores, provisions, and furniture, as well those still on
+board, as those landed, for the purpose of adopting
+such measures as would be most proper, under existing
+circumstances, for the benefit of his Majesty’s service,
+and the health and security of the crew; after full and
+mature deliberation, the following resolutions were agreed
+to unanimously:—</p>
+
+<p><i>First</i>,—That the condition and situation of the hull
+of the said ship since the moment of her striking the
+ground on the 19th ultimo up to the present period (as
+proved by repeated surveys taken) has afforded no kind
+of hope that any exertions could have removed her
+from the beach where she now lies; and even were this
+possible, she would not swim from the injury she has<span class="pagenum" id="Page_148">[148]</span>
+received. Also, that neither vessels nor boats can with
+any kind of safety approach the wreck; neither can
+boats live in the surf outside.</p>
+
+<p>That from the period of the ship grounding, a high
+rolling sea, commencing at nearly a mile to seaward, has
+continued with more or less violence to drive her further
+on the beach; she now lies imbedded in sand at a
+depth of about ten feet, the drawback of the surf leaving
+her at times nearly dry as far as the gangways. To
+steady her in her present position, a stream chain has
+been bent to an anchor buried in the sand on the beach;
+and by working the hand and chain pumps, various
+descriptions of provisions and small stores, which have
+withstood the effects of wet, have been got out of the
+holds, and landed for present consumption. The whole
+frame of the ship is much loosened, the fastenings of the
+iron knees on the main and lower decks, with the butts
+and scarphs of the shelves, clumps, and waterways on
+both decks have started; the copper much wrinkled
+throughout, many sheets being forced off about the fourteen
+foot draught; the rudder is gone, the pentles short
+off, and the deck and deck transern started. The great
+serious injury done to the ship is from about the main
+chain lockers, to the fore hatchway, where she is bilged,
+the keel, keelson, and flooring being forced up, the supporters
+in the holds upset, and when labouring in the
+surf, previously to her driving so far up on the beach,
+the lower midship parts, with the chain cables and
+tanks, worked as if about to separate from the upper
+body of the ship. Several pieces of the bottom planking,
+which appear to be of her garboard streak, and
+above it, have been washed up on the shore.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_149">[149]</span></p>
+
+<p><i>Secondly</i>,—That many of the stores have been thrown
+overboard to lighten the ship, or to save the crew; of
+the remainder, most are damaged, and the sails, ropes,
+and spars, from absolute necessity, have been consumed
+or rendered useless by the injury received in forming
+barricades for defence against the Indians, and shelter
+for the crew. A few of the heavier stores remain on
+board: such as spare topmasts, topsail-yards, hemp and
+chain cables, eight or ten guns, &amp;c.; but under the circumstances
+above mentioned, the only useful objects to
+be borne in mind are the preservation of the lives of
+the crew, and the salvage of as many stores, provisions,
+and furniture as possible: for these purposes an encampment
+has been formed on the beach in the only situation
+capable of any defence from the Indians, protected
+by, and itself protecting, the wreck.</p>
+
+<p><i>Thirdly</i>,—That this encampment, however, is open
+to many objections. It is situated on a low mound of
+sand, nearly surrounded by marshy flats, exposed to
+the overflowings of the sea, and even to be swept away
+by its rising; a calamity which we understood afflicted
+Talcuhuano, and many parts of this coast, after the
+great earthquake on the 20th of February last. It is
+now the middle of winter, and heavy and continued
+rains must be hourly expected. Swarms of large mice
+threaten the tents and provision with destruction. The
+position is consequently both unhealthy and insecure. Reports,
+too, are frequently brought to the encampment of
+attacks meditated by the more southern Indians, which
+tend to harass the men by making it necessary to keep
+them under arms. Should such an attack be successful,
+the only retreat is into a heavy broken surf on the rear, in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_150">[150]</span>
+which no boat can live; or if the Indian attack fail, the
+tents might be burnt in the encounter, and the encampment
+blockaded and starved out, before the only aid, if
+aid might be expected, could arrive from the garrison
+of Arauco, said to be distant about ninety miles.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fourthly</i>,—That all these considerations forbid the
+hope of maintaining the present position near the wreck,
+until assistance can be received from any of His Majesty’s
+ships: as from the report of the country people, and of
+His Majesty’s Consul, confirmed by the examination
+made by supernumerary Lieutenant Rothery, it appears
+that the mouth of the river Leubu seems to afford an
+anchorage and facilities for commanders of ships coming
+to the aid of the crew of His Majesty’s ship Challenger,
+this meeting is unanimously of opinion, that to preserve
+the lives of the crew, and as the best means of saving as
+much as possible of the stores, provisions, and furniture
+of the ship, it is absolutely necessary immediately to
+abandon the wreck, and remove with the crew, and such
+stores, provisions, and furniture as may be transportable,
+to some convenient situation at the mouth of the Leubu;
+that this course will be attended with the least expense
+to the public, for the mouth of the Leubu is distant
+only about twenty miles, and half the road is over a
+hard sandy beach, presenting less difficulties than by
+way of Arauco to the port of Talcuhuano, said to be
+distant about 150 miles, and over roads known to be
+exceedingly bad, and almost impassable in the winter
+season.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fifthly</i>,—That this meeting would, therefore, recommend
+in addition to the foregoing, that the second lieutenant
+and master should be sent to examine a second time the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_151">[151]</span>
+mouth of the Leubu; and should the report of those officers
+confirm that of supernumerary Lieutenant Rothery
+as to the before-mentioned capabilities of the mouth of
+the Leubu, then that Lieutenant Collins should proceed
+with all despatch to the port of Talcuhuano, there to
+act upon the orders and instructions, a copy of which
+is hereunto annexed under the No. 1., and that the
+master should return to the wreck to confirm its capabilities
+for the objects in view.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sixthly</i>,—In this stage of proceedings His Majesty’s
+Consul repeated what he had previously mentioned in
+the course of discussion; namely, that the government
+of Chili was in actual state of warfare with a part of the
+Araucano tribes, who occupy the central part of the
+Indian territory, and that a great deal of disaffection
+towards Chili prevailed amongst the southern tribes of
+the coast about the rivers Tirua and Imperial; a disaffection
+which kept in a constant state of alarm the small
+garrisons in the ruined fort of Arauco: that from the
+most correct intelligence recently obtained, it appeared
+that a Cacique, named Cadin, at the head of about 2000
+Indians from Tirua and Imperial, had actually been on
+his march to attack and plunder the wreck, when his progress
+was accidentally arrested by the march of the
+friendly Cacique Colissi at the head of a formidable
+party from the interior: that this accidental circumstance
+had certainly averted immediate danger; but as
+Colissi had retired to Puren after contenting himself with
+the insignificant plunder of a small tribe of his enemies,
+it would not be prudent to consider the encampment
+as secure from attack: that true it was, the government
+of Concepçion had directed the military commandant of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_152">[152]</span>
+Arauco to detach a force sufficient to protect the wreck;
+but it was well known that officer was in no condition to
+afford any effectual assistance in this manner; and that
+it would be as well to take into consideration what kind
+of enemies the Araucanos were, the distance of Molquilla
+from the Chilian frontier, and the advanced state
+of the season, which rendered the roads to Arauco
+exceedingly difficult, and almost impassable for shipwrecked
+seamen, and the transportation of stores. His
+Majesty’s Consul added, that he concurred in the correctness
+of all the preceding observations as to the situation
+of the encampment.</p>
+
+<p>Whereupon it was also resolved, that the Consul
+should be requested to make application to the military
+commandant of Arauco, now present at the encampment
+with a few militia, soliciting, that whenever it became
+necessary to abandon the wreck, he would be pleased to
+station there a force sufficient for its protection, and that
+of the remaining stores, until such time as the senior
+officer in the Pacific should be able to take measures for
+saving as much as possible; and also that public notice
+should be given to the effect, that all persons who might
+succeed in saving any part of the wreck or its remaining
+stores for the benefit of His Majesty’s government,
+would be rewarded with the customary salvage upon
+bringing the same to a place of security, and delivery to
+any of His Majesty’s Consuls.</p>
+
+<p>To the truth of the aforegoing we are ready to make
+oath when required, and in witness whereof we hereunto
+subscribe our names to this and two others of the same
+tenor and date, at the place, and on the day, month, and
+year first and before mentioned in the presence of His<span class="pagenum" id="Page_153">[153]</span>
+Majesty’s Consul aforesaid, who has also subscribed his
+name hereto.</p>
+
+<p class="noindent" style="margin-left: 2em">
+<span class="smcap">M. Seymour</span>, <i>Captain</i>.<br>
+<span class="smcap">H. Tause</span>, <i>Senior Lieutenant</i>.<br>
+<span class="smcap">W. J. Collins</span>, <i>Second Lieutenant</i>.<br>
+<span class="smcap">W. K. Stephens</span>, <i>Third Lieutenant</i>.<br>
+<span class="smcap">Geo. Alex. Rothery</span>, <i>Supernumerary Lieutenant</i>.<br>
+<span class="smcap">John M’Donald</span>, <i>Master</i>.<br>
+<span class="smcap">John Arnold Mould</span>, <i>Acting-Surgeon</i>.<br>
+<span class="smcap">J. P. Sarjeant</span>, <i>Purser</i>.<br>
+<span class="smcap">A. S. Booth</span>, <i>Mate</i> (<i>in charge of a watch</i>).<br>
+<span class="smcap">J. W. Lane</span>, <i>Assistant-Surgeon</i>.<br>
+<span class="smcap">Joseph Jagoe</span>, <i>Clerk</i>.<br>
+<span class="smcap">Alex. Barclay</span>, <i>Carpenter</i>.<br>
+</p>
+
+<p class="right">
+<span style="margin-right: 8em;"><span class="smcap">H. W. Rouse, Esq.</span>,</span><br>
+H. M. Consul in the Province of Concepçion.<br>
+</p>
+
+<hr class="r25">
+
+<p class="center">(<i>Copy.</i>)—<span class="smcap">Mem. No. I.</span></p>
+
+<p>The object of your journey to Concepçion is to inform
+yourself of the most immediate mode by which the
+crew of His Majesty’s ship Challenger can be transported
+by sea from the mouth of the river Leubu to Talcuhuana.</p>
+
+<p>On your arrival at Concepçion, you will inform yourself
+of the probability of any man-of-war having been
+at Valparaiso at the time the news of our misfortune
+may have reached that place.</p>
+
+<p>If, on mature consideration and inquiry, you see no
+hope of a man-of-war having it in her power to come<span class="pagenum" id="Page_154">[154]</span>
+shortly to our relief, you will proceed, in conjunction
+with the advice of any person competent to judge of
+the most ready means of chartering a merchant vessel,
+or secure a vessel calculated to come to the river Leubu
+without a moment’s delay, to embark the officers and
+crew, and such articles that may be saved from the
+wreck to the port of Talcuhuana.</p>
+
+<p>You will arrange with the master of such vessel, and
+make all the necessary examinations as to the equipment
+of her sails and ground tackle, as well as soundness
+of hull, to answer the object in view.</p>
+
+<p>It is to be expressly understood by the master of such
+vessel, that in conducting her to the river Leubu, he is
+to be subject to your sanction and control.</p>
+
+<p>You will avail yourself of any opportunity of communicating
+with His Majesty’s Consul-general at Santiago
+as to the purport of your operations at Concepçion,
+for the information of the senior officer in the Pacific.</p>
+
+<p>You will likewise take charge of certain despatches
+for the senior officer in the Pacific, and His Majesty’s
+Consul-general at Santiago, to be forwarded by the
+first opportunity from Concepçion.</p>
+
+<p>
+1st June, 1835.<br>
+</p>
+
+<p class="right">
+(<i>Signed</i>)&nbsp; &nbsp; <span class="smcap">M. Seymour</span>, Captain.<br>
+</p>
+
+<p class="noindent">
+To Lieutenant Walter J. Collins,<br>
+<span class="pad2">H. M. Ship Challenger.</span><br>
+</p>
+
+<hr class="r25">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_155">[155]</span></p>
+
+
+<p class="center">(<i>Translation.</i>)—<span class="smcap">H. W. Rouse.</span></p>
+
+<p class="right">
+<span style="margin-right: 4em;">British Consulate,</span><br>
+Molquilla, June 6th, 1835.<br>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class="smcap">Sir</span>,<br>
+</p>
+
+<p>The captain of His Britannic Majesty’s ship Challenger,
+wrecked on this beach, by letter dated yesterday
+has notified to me the necessity he is under of abandoning
+the hull and remaining property of the vessel referred
+to, in consequence of a conviction of being unable
+longer to protect them, or to transport them to the
+mouth of the Leubu, where he proposes to establish
+himself with his people and such effects as he may be
+able to transport, until an opportunity offers itself for
+embarking by sea.</p>
+
+<p>He likewise desires me to beg you will take the steps
+most proper for doing what he is unable to do.</p>
+
+<p>I therefore address you, requesting that if other points
+of service do not forbid, you will, in compliance with the
+instructions received from the military commandant of
+the lower frontier and acting intendant of Concepçion,
+station in the most convenient situation a force sufficient
+to protect the hull and remaining property of the vessel
+shipwrecked, until such time as the senior officer of His
+Majesty’s ships and vessels in the Pacific may have it in
+his power to adopt those measures most proper for the
+salvage.</p>
+
+<p>I trust, also, you will be pleased to order inquiries to
+be set on foot whether there be any persons in the subdelegation
+of Arauco desirous of entering into an agreement
+for the salvage of the property in question; and
+that public notice be given throughout the whole subdelegation
+under your command, to make known, that<span class="pagenum" id="Page_156">[156]</span>
+those persons who may have it in their power to save
+the whole or any part of the property, and lodge it in a
+place of security, in order that it may be obtained possession
+of by any of His Britannic Majesty’s Consuls,
+will be indemnified with the part of salvage fixed by the
+laws of Chili.</p>
+
+<p>In addition to what is already mentioned, I think to
+entreat your humane good offices in favour of the officers
+and crew, so that they may receive all possible protection
+during their forced residence at the mouth of Leubu.</p>
+
+<p>With this view I have the honour to subscribe
+myself,</p>
+
+<p class="right">Your attentive sincere Servant,</p>
+
+<p class="right">(<i>Signed</i>)<span class="smcap pad2">H. W. Rouse</span>,</p>
+
+<p class="right">His Britannic Majesty’s Consul
+in the Province of Concepçion.</p>
+
+<p class="noindent">
+<span style="margin-left:1em">To the Military Commandant of</span><br>
+<span style="margin-left:4em">the Fort of Arauco,</span><br>
+<span>Lieutenant-Colonel Geronimo St. Valenzuela,</span><br>
+<span style="margin-left:4em">now at Molquilla.</span><br>
+</p>
+
+<hr class="r25">
+
+
+<p class="center">(<i>Translation.</i>)—<span class="smcap">H. W. Rouse.</span></p>
+
+<p class="right">
+<span style="margin-right: 0.5em;">Office of the Military</span><br>
+Commandant of Arauco,<br>
+Molquilla, June 7th, 1835.<br>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class="smcap">Sir</span>,<br>
+</p>
+
+<p>I have received your esteemed note of yesterday’s
+date, wherein you ask for a party of troops sufficient to
+guard the hull and remaining property of His Britannic
+Majesty’s ship of war “Challenger,” wrecked on these
+shores; that I inquire whether there be any persons<span class="pagenum" id="Page_157">[157]</span>
+inclined to enter into an agreement for the salvage of
+the useful parts of said ship, and that public notice be
+given throughout the subdelegation, in order that those
+who can save any articles, or the whole, by placing them
+in security, and that the Consul or authority of that
+nation may be able to dispose of them shall be indemnified
+according to the laws of Chili; and recommending
+the protection of the officers and crew who have
+removed, with what has been saved, to encamp at the
+mouth of the Leubu.</p>
+
+<p>In reply, I say, that with regard to the first, I will
+believe both you and the captain of the vessel will do
+me and government the justice to be convinced, that
+it would be most satisfactory to be able to furnish at this
+point the party of troops asked for; but in this respect
+the thing is too impossible to be able to do it; by
+reason of the great distance of thirty odd leagues between
+the place of shipwreck and the frontier fort of
+Arauco; by reason of the isolated state of the spot, and
+its utter want of resources for sheltering the soldiers, and
+for keeping their arms and equipments fit for service;
+the vessel being wrecked on an open and bad beach,
+far from every point at which the soldiers could fortify
+themselves for their own defence, and for the safety of
+the vessel against the barbarous enemies; especially
+when you yourself have seen the official letter of the
+3d instant, by which I am informed of the near approach
+of said enemies, in number 2600, to invade these frontiers.
+I might likewise observe to you, that the garrison
+under my command in Arauco only consists at present
+of ninety-nine infantry, six artillerymen, and three
+officers. In the fort you will have seen the totally<span class="pagenum" id="Page_158">[158]</span>
+ruined walls,—a consequence of the earthquake of the
+20th of February last. To divide that small force for a
+long period to so isolated a spot, were to expose that
+force, and perhaps the whole subdelegation under my
+charge; and even supposing it were allowable to detach
+the whole force in defence and for security of the
+vessel, that force would always be very much exposed
+to a sudden misfortune from the enemies referred to
+(who are only distant a day and a half’s march from
+this place), without our obtaining the object we proposed.
+Add to which, that at this time of winter, the
+river swells to the greatest degree, and the roads become
+impassable between Arauco and this place, as you yourself
+will understand, since you have travelled over them
+in my company upon the present occasion, when they
+are still somewhat practicable.</p>
+
+<p>With regard to the second, I have summoned the
+persons most proper for the object, and no one has
+been found daring enough to remain longer here, because
+they are aware of the severity of the season and
+the danger from the barbarians: and consequently, on
+no conditions will any one take an interest in the salvage
+of the remaining property of the vessel.</p>
+
+<p>But with regard to the third, upon my return to the
+fort, I will take care to cause the public notice asked for
+to be circulated throughout the whole subdelegation.</p>
+
+<p>With reference to your recommendation in favour of
+the officers and crew who have removed to the mouth of
+Leubu, I can assure you, that the most active steps will
+be taken for the benefit of the whole in the best manner
+possible, and, as you can testify, has been done up to
+the present moment; but for the reasons already stated,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_159">[159]</span>
+it were as well you reminded these gentlemen of the
+propriety of the greatest watchfulness in their new camp,
+to guard against the enterprises which might be meditated
+by the barbarians. I should, moreover, mention
+to you, for the information of the captain in question,
+that the intelligence I expect to be brought to me this
+day or to-morrow by two couriers I have sent to Tucupal,
+will decide whether I shall order an approach to be
+made to the before-mentioned encampment at the mouth
+of Leubu, where he proposes remaining, by a part of
+my troops, accompanied by the militia cavalry, hitherto
+occupied in conducting the cargo saved, with such more
+as it may be in my power to assemble. With this view,
+I repeat to you my greatest respect and esteem.</p>
+
+<p class="right" style="margin-right: 1em;">
+(<i>Signed</i>) <span class="smcap">Geronimo St. Valenzuela.</span><br>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+His Britannic Majesty’s Consul,<br>
+<span class="pad2">H. W. Rouse, Esq.</span><br>
+</p>
+
+<hr class="r25">
+
+<p class="center">
+<i>List of Officers on board His Majesty’s late Ship</i><br>
+<i>Challenger.</i><br>
+</p>
+
+<p class="noindent pad2">
+<span class="smcap">Michael Seymour</span>, <i>Captain</i>.<br>
+<span class="smcap">Hector Tause</span>, <i>First Lieutenant</i>.<br>
+<span class="smcap">Walter J. Collins</span>, <i>Second Lieutenant</i>.<br>
+<span class="smcap">William K. Stephens</span>, <i>Third Lieutenant</i>.<br>
+<span class="smcap">G. A. Rothery</span>, <i>Supernumerary Lieutenant</i>.<br>
+<span class="smcap">John M’Donald</span>, <i>Master</i>.<br>
+<span class="smcap">J. P. Sarjeant</span>, <i>Purser</i>.<br>
+<span class="smcap">John A. Mould</span>, <i>Acting Surgeon</i>.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_160">[160]</span><br>
+<span class="smcap">John W. Lane</span>, <i>Assistant Surgeon</i>.<br>
+<span class="smcap">G. Horwood</span>, <i>Acting Second Master</i>.<br>
+<span class="smcap">R. Hoops</span>, <i>Mate</i>.<br>
+<span class="smcap">A. S. Booth</span>, <i>Mate</i>.<br>
+<span class="smcap">R. C. H. Gordon</span>, <i>Midshipman</i>.<br>
+<span class="smcap">F. Howard Vyse</span>, <i>Ditto</i>.<br>
+<span class="smcap">Edward Crouch</span>, <i>Ditto</i>.<br>
+<span class="smcap">Roger L. Curtis</span>, <i>Ditto</i>.<br>
+<span class="smcap">James H. Luscombe</span>, <i>Ditto</i>.<br>
+<span class="smcap">J. Jagoe</span>, <i>Clerk</i>.<br>
+<span class="smcap">—— Fry</span>, <i>Supernumerary Clerk</i>.<br>
+<span class="smcap">J. Parker</span>, <i>Master’s Assistant</i>.<br>
+<span class="smcap">R. Read</span>, <i>Ditto</i>.<br>
+<span class="smcap">L. W. Peyton</span>, <i>Volunteer</i>.<br>
+<span class="smcap">G. F. Day</span>, <i>Ditto</i>.<br>
+<span class="smcap">Alex. Barclay</span>, <i>Carpenter</i>.<br>
+<span class="smcap">J. Walker</span>, <i>Gunner</i>.<br>
+<span class="smcap">W. Warren</span>, <i>Boatswain</i>.<br>
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="p4 center fs80">THE END.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center fs80 p4">
+<span class="smcap">London</span>:<br>
+Printed by <span class="smcap">A. Spottiswoode</span>,<br>
+New-Street-Square.<br>
+</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<div class="footnotes"><h2>FOOTNOTES:</h2>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_1" href="#FNanchor_1" class="label">[1]</a> Balls, about the size of a billiard ball, attached with a
+string; used in warfare, and for the purpose of killing game.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<div class="transnote" id="transnote">
+TRANSCRIBER’S NOTE<br>
+<br>
+Obvious typographical errors and punctuation errors have been
+corrected after careful comparison with other occurrences within
+the text and consultation of external sources.<br>
+<br>
+Some hyphens in words have been silently removed, some added,
+when a predominant preference was found in the original book.<br>
+<br>
+Except for those changes noted below, all misspellings in the text,
+and inconsistent or archaic usage, have been retained.<br>
+<br>
+Page <a href="#TN-1">16</a>. “ariticles” replaced by “articles”.<br>
+Page <a href="#TN-2">16</a>. “beech” replaced by “beach”.<br>
+Page <a href="#TN-3">21</a>. “Tucapal” replaced by “Tucapel”.<br>
+Page <a href="#TN-4">67</a>. “punblo” replaced by “pueblo”.<br>
+Page <a href="#TN-5">96</a>. “abo t” replaced by “about”.<br>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<div style='text-align:center'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 77171 ***</div>
+</body>
+</html>
diff --git a/77171-h/images/cover.jpg b/77171-h/images/cover.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..573e970
--- /dev/null
+++ b/77171-h/images/cover.jpg
diff --git a/77171-h/images/i002.jpg b/77171-h/images/i002.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8023278
--- /dev/null
+++ b/77171-h/images/i002.jpg
diff --git a/77171-h/images/i013.jpg b/77171-h/images/i013.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..788ed9c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/77171-h/images/i013.jpg
diff --git a/77171-h/images/i039.jpg b/77171-h/images/i039.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..b994a35
--- /dev/null
+++ b/77171-h/images/i039.jpg
diff --git a/77171-h/images/i109.jpg b/77171-h/images/i109.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8c1c707
--- /dev/null
+++ b/77171-h/images/i109.jpg
diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6c72794
--- /dev/null
+++ b/LICENSE.txt
@@ -0,0 +1,11 @@
+This book, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
+metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
+Procedures for determining public domain status are described in
+the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org.
+
+No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in
+jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize
+this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright
+status under the laws that apply to them.
diff --git a/README.md b/README.md
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0156b90
--- /dev/null
+++ b/README.md
@@ -0,0 +1,2 @@
+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for eBook #77171
+(https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/77171)