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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/78019-0.txt b/78019-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..a7be377 --- /dev/null +++ b/78019-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,10547 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78019 *** + + + + +Transcriber’s Note: Italic text is enclosed in _underscores_. +Superscript characters are preceded by ^. Small capital text has been +changed to all capital. Additional notes will be found near the end of +this ebook. + + + + + [Illustration: _CHART of the Track of the_ Dolphin, Tamar, Swallow & + Endeavour, _through the_ SOUTH SEAS, _& of the Track of_ M. + Bougainville, round the WORLD.] + + + + + AN + HISTORICAL ACCOUNT + OF ALL THE + VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD, + PERFORMED BY + ENGLISH NAVIGATORS; + INCLUDING THOSE LATELY UNDERTAKEN + By ORDER of his PRESENT MAJESTY. + + THE WHOLE + Faithfully Extracted from the JOURNALS of the + VOYAGERS. + + DRAKE, undertaken in 1577-80 + CAVENDISH, 1586-88 + COWLEY, 1683-86 + DAMPIER, 1689-96 + COOKE, 1708-11 + ROGERS, 1708-11 + CLIPPERTON and SHELVOCKE, 1719-22 + ANSON, 1740-44 + BYRON, 1764-66 + WALLIS, 1766-68 + CARTERET, 1766-69 + COOK, 1768-71 + + TOGETHER WITH + + That of SYDNEY PARKINSON, Draftsman to JOSEPH BANKS, Esq; who + circumnavigated the Globe with Capt. COOK, in his Majesty’s Ship the + ENDEAVOUR. + AND + + The Voyage of Mons. BOUGAINVILLE round the World, Performed by Order of + the French King. + + Illustrated with Maps, Charts, and Historical Prints. + + IN FOUR VOLUMES. + + To which is added, + + An APPENDIX. Containing the JOURNAL of a VOYAGE to the NORTH POLE, by + the Hon. Commodore PHIPPS, and Captain LUTWIDGE. + ───────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────── + VOLUME THE THIRD. + ═════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════ + LONDON: + Printed for F. NEWBERY, the Corner of St. Paul’s Church-Yard. + ───────────── + M DCC LXXIII. + + + + + COMMODORE BYRON’S + VOYAGE + ROUND THE WORLD, + In 1764, 1765, and 1766. + + +His present Majesty having formed a design of prosecuting the discovery +of countries in the South Seas, was pleased, in the year 1764, to give +orders for the carrying this design into execution: in consequence of +which, the Dolphin ship of war and the Tamar frigate were fitted, +manned, and victualled for this expedition. + +Mr. Byron was commander in chief, and Captain Mouat had the honour of +commanding the frigate under him. They sailed from the Downs on the 21st +of June, 1764, but the Dolphin running a-ground, she was put into +Plymouth Dock and examined: she had however sustained no injury, and on +the 3d of July the Commodore hoisted his broad pendant, and sailed in +prosecution of his voyage. On the 30th they anchored in the road of +Fonchiale, at the island of Madeira; the Governor of which saluted the +Captain with 11 guns, and the compliment was returned. They sailed on +the 19th, and on the 21st were in sight of Palma, one of the Canary +Islands. Their water having become foul and stinking, they purified it, +by forcing a stream of air through it, by means of a kind of ventilator +constructed for that purpose. On the 27th and 28th they saw the Canary +Islands, and anchored in the bay of Port Praya on the 30th.--Having +taken in water, and purchased some fresh provisions, they sailed with +all possible expedition, for fear of the tornadoes, which are very +common on this coast from August till November. + +Most of the crew had purchased monkies, lean goats, and fowls, in +exchange for their old jackets, shirts, &c. It had been remarked before, +and was now again observed, that no fish would come near the ship, which +was attributed to her being sheathed with copper; this was a mortifying +circumstance, as there were immense numbers of fish within sight. + +On the 13th of September they came to an anchor in the road of Rio de +Janeiro, on the coast of Brazil, when the Commodore paid a visit to the +Governor, who received him in state, being attended by some persons of +distinction, and having many officers, and a Captain’s guard under arms +before the palace. Fifteen guns were fired in honour of the English +flag; and the Governor afterwards returned the Commodore’s visit on +board the Dolphin. Many of the people on board the Tamar being sick, +lodgings were provided for them on shore, where they soon recovered; but +the crew of the Dolphin kept their health, through the plentiful use of +fresh meat and greens. + +While the ship lay in this harbour, the Portuguese enticed away nine of +the crew of the Tamar, and five from the Dolphin. The former were +recovered, by a party sent after them in the night; but the Commodore +could never learn where his men were secreted. This practice of +kidnapping the English tars is here carried on with impunity; and when +all other methods fail, the poor fellows are generally made drunk, and +then sent up the country, till the ship to which they belong is sailed. +They weighed anchor on the 16th of October, and on the 22d the Commodore +informed the crew that they were not bound, as they thought, directly to +the East Indies, but on a voyage to make discoveries; and that, on their +behaving well, the Lords of the Admiralty had ordered them double pay, +and other emoluments. They were transported with this news, declared +their willingness to serve their country, and promised obedience to the +orders of the Commodore. On the 29th they encountered so violent a +storm, that they were obliged to throw four guns overboard: it continued +very tempestuous all night, but dying away in the morning, they made +sail, and, in 35 degrees 50 minutes south latitude, found the weather +most intolerably cold, though it was now the latter end of October, and +November in that climate answers to May in England. The sailors now +repented the having bartered their old cloaths for eatables; but they +were soon re-furnished with the slops that were on board. + +The Commodore, on the 2d of November, delivered their commissions to his +officers, after they had taken the customary oath. They now beheld vast +numbers of pintadoes, and other birds, in flocks about the ship. +Observing the colour of the water to be changed, they stood in for land +on the 11th of this month, and found ground at the depth of 45 fathom. +The next day the men on the forecastle called out, at the same instant, +“Land right a-head.” The Commodore looked forward, and saw what he +thought an island, composed of two hills, and land joining to it, which +ran far to the south-east; but in the end this proved to be only a +fog-bank, which vanished on a sudden. These deceptions are not +unfrequent: not long since the master of a vessel made oath, that he had +seen an island, and trees growing on it, between Newfoundland and the +west coast of Ireland; in consequence of which some ships were sent in +search of it, but it could never be found. + +In the afternoon of the 13th the wind shifted, the sky grew black to +windward, and a strange noise was heard, resembling the roaring of the +sea on a shallow coast. Hundreds of birds were observed flying from the +storm, and shrieking through dreadful apprehension. At length it reached +the ship before she was prepared for it, and laid her on her side. The +first Lieutenant was beat down by the main sheet, by which some of his +teeth were knocked out, and he was otherwise terribly bruised. The +main-sail of the Tamar was split; but as she was to leeward of the +Dolphin, she had more time to prepare for the threatened storm. The wind +continued violent all night, but abated in the morning, when the sea was +observed to be covered with a small red fish, like cray-fish, great +numbers of which were catched by the ship’s crew. + +On the 16th they steered for Cape Blanco, shaping their course agreeable +to the chart of it laid down in Anson’s Voyage. On the 17th they saw the +Cape, and for two days struggled hard to reach Port Desire; but the +description given of it in Narborough’s Voyage is so perplexed, that +they were much at a loss. They stood into a bay south of the Cape, but +could find no port. On the 20th they saw Penguin Island, and as Port +Desire was said to be a few leagues north-west of it, a boat was sent +out, which found it. In these seas there were thousands of seals and +penguins near the ship. On the 21st they entered the harbour of Port +Desire, and the Commodore in his boat, attended by two other boats, went +to sound it. Mr. Byron landed, and found the country all one continued +down, having neither shrubs or trees. They had a sight of four beasts, +near 13 hands high, and in shape like a deer, which they took to be +guanicoes. The Commodore having returned to his boat, went higher up the +harbour, to an island abounding with seals, more than 50 of which they +killed, some of them exceeding the size of an ordinary bullock. They +likewise killed a variety of birds, one with a head like an eagle, with +a large comb on it, and a white ruff, like a lady’s tippet, round the +neck; the feathers on the back were black, and of a most exquisite +polish; the legs were large and strong, with talons somewhat like the +eagle; the wings being extended, measured no less than 12 feet from +their extremities. + +On the 21st the Tamar sailed into the harbour with the rising of the +tide; but the Dolphin waiting for a wind, ran on shore, where she +remained all night, and the next day, in very tempestuous weather. On +the 23d they saw the track of a tyger, and several other beasts, and +found a nest of ostriches eggs, which proved to be good eating. On the +24th the ships were both properly moored in the harbour, where the water +rises no less than 27 feet at spring tides. + +The Commodore went on shore this day, and shot a hare weighing 26 +pounds, and saw several others as large as fawns. On the 25th he landed +again, and found the barrel of an old musquet, with the King’s broad +arrow on it, and an old oar of a singular form. The musquet-barrel was +so decayed, that it would crumble to dust with the touch. These things, +it is probable, were left by the crew of the Wager, or, possibly, by Sir +John Narborough. + +They here saw the remains of fires, but met with no inhabitants. The +only vegetable they found was wild peas. They killed several wild ducks, +and shot a ball through the body of a hare, which ran two miles before +he dropped: the flesh of this animal is delicious, and as white as snow. +Two old guanicoes and a fawn were killed by another party; and some of +the former were seen of 300 weight. + +The skull and bones of a man having been found, were brought on board; +as was likewise a young guanicoe, which was very beautiful, and grew +quite tame; but died in a short time. Happily, on the 27th, two springs +of tolerable water were found; and on the next day a tun of it was +brought on board. The Commodore went again on shore, where such an +immense number of birds took flight, as actually darkened the sky, and +it was impossible to walk without treading on their eggs. These eggs the +men ate, though there were young birds in the greater part of them. + +On the 30th some men being sent on shore for water, two of them, who +first came to it, saw a tyger lying on the ground, who taking no kind of +notice of them, they threw stones at him: still, however, they could not +provoke his rage; he waited till the rest came up, and then walked +leisurely off. The country near this bay abounds with geese, ducks, +widgeon, and sea-pies, besides several birds, the names of which are +unknown. + +On the 5th of December the ships got under sail, and, during that and +the following day, had pleasant weather and a fine gale. They now +steered for Pepys’ Isle, which is described as lying in 47 degrees south +latitude. The weather was now very clear, and the ships, by spreading +from each other, could, between them, command a prospect of 20 leagues. +They thus continued their search for this supposed island till the 11th +of the month, when the Commodore, convinced that there was no such +place, resolved to stand in for the main, to take in wood and water, +which began to be much wanted. + +Large whales now swam frequently about the ship, and birds flew round +them in great numbers. On the 15th the wind blew a perfect hurricane, +before which it would have been safest to have ran; but the fear of +being driven too far from land, while they were in want of water, +determined them to endeavour to weather it, which they did till it +abated, which was at eight o’clock the next morning. On the 18th they +saw land, which, like that near Port Desire, was of the downy kind +without trees. They now observed porpoises, which were milk white, with +black spots, pursuing the fish in the sea, of which there were great +numbers. + +On the 20th they ran close in shore to Cape Virgin Mary; and having +observed a smoke on shore, and a number of guanicoes feeding in the +vallies, they came to an anchor. The next day they again sailed, and at +length anchored about two miles from the shore, near the place where +they had seen smoke the preceding day. The Commodore observed a number +of men on horse-back, riding to and fro, opposite the ship, and waving +something white, which he took to be an invitation to land; and as he +was anxious to know what people these were, he went in one boat with a +party of men well armed; the first Lieutenant with a separate party +following in another. When they came near the shore, they saw a great +number of people on horseback, and some on foot, the whole amounting, as +they judged, to five hundred; who were drawn up on a stony point of land +that ran far into the sea. Though the Commodore did not observe that +they had any weapons, he made signs for them to retreat a little, which +they readily did, and kept shouting very loud while the crew were +landing; which was no sooner done, than they were mustered on the beach, +with their officers at their head. + +Mr. Byron now advanced alone, but as he approached, the Indians +retreated; he therefore made signs, that one of them should come +forward, which was complied with. The person who advanced appeared to be +a chief, and was very near seven feet in heighth: round one of his eyes +was a circle of black paint, and a white circle round the other; the +rest of his face was painted in streaks of various colours. He had the +skin of a beast, with the hair inwards, thrown over his shoulders. The +Commodore and the Indian having complimented each other, in language +equally unintelligible to either, they walked together towards the main +body of the Indians, few of whom were shorter than the height +abovementioned, and the women were large in proportion. Mr. Byron made +signs for them to sit on the ground, which they did, chanting in a most +serious and melancholy tone. The eyes of any one face were never painted +with the same colours; some being white and red, some black and red, and +some black and white: their teeth were white and even; they were all +dressed much alike; but that some of them wore a sort of boots, having a +spur of peaked wood fastened to each heel. + +The Commodore having prevailed on some, who were still galloping about, +to alight and sit down with the rest, he distributed some white and +yellow beads among them, which they very gladly accepted. He then took a +piece of ribband, and giving the end of it into the hands of the first +Indian, he continued it to the next, and so on as they sat, to the end +of the ribband. He then cut it with a pair of scissars between every two +of them; and tied each man’s share round his head, which they did not +attempt to remove. It was remarked, that though the presents were +insufficient to supply them all, no one pressed forward from the station +assigned him, nor seemed to envy the superior good fortune of his +neighbour. + + [Illustration: _Commodore Byron Conversing with a Patagonian Woman._] + +Among these gigantic people, one woman, who was of the largest size, and +most disagreebly painted, had her hair adorned with beads of blue grass, +hanging, in two divisions, down before her shoulders; and she had +bracelets of pale gold or brass, on her arms; but there was no learning +how she obtained this finery. One of the men shewed Mr. Byron the bowl +of a tobacco pipe, made of red earth, and made signs that he wanted some +tobacco, none of which they had among them. On this the Commodore +beckoned to the seamen, who still remained drawn up on the beach, three +or four of whom instantly running forward, the Indians were alarmed, and +jumping up in an instant, were preparing to retire, as it was supposed, +to fetch their arms. Mr. Byron therefore ran and stopped the sailors, +directing one of them only to come forward, when he had got all the +tobacco they could muster among them. This restored peace, and all the +Indians resumed their places, except an old man, who sung a long song to +Mr. Byron; at nearly the conclusion of which Mr. Cumming, the first +Lieutenant, brought the tobacco. This gentleman, tho’ six feet two +inches high, was himself astonished at the diminutive figure he cut +among the strangers, who were broad and muscular in proportion to their +height. The Commodore having distributed the tobacco, they made signs +for him to ride to their huts; but he intimated, that he must return to +the ship; on which they sat down again, apparently much concerned. Their +horses, though not large, were active, and much under command: their +saddles were like an English pad, and the bridle was formed of a thong +of leather, with the bit made of wood; they had no stirrups, and both +men and women rode astride. When the Commodore left them they kept their +seats, not once offering to follow him. + +On the 21st of December they began sailing up the Streight of Magellan, +with a view to take in a proper stock of wood and water, as the finding +Falkland’s Islands was yet a matter of uncertainty. They remarked a +single Indian on this shore, who waved his hand to them till he lost +sight of the ship; they likewise saw several guanicoes on the hills. On +the evening of the 22d six Indians came on the beach, hallooing, and +making signs that they wished an acquaintance with the crew; but, as the +seamen were fatigued, the Commodore would not send off a boat to them. +On the 25th they saw a point of land near St. George’s Island, to which +Mr. Byron gave the name of PORPOIS POINT. + +Having anchored at ten at night, the Commodore went the next morning in +quest of wood and water, plenty of which they found on the point +abovementioned. A fine level country lies over the point, the soil of +which appeared to be very luxuriant, producing innumerable flowers of +several kinds, the smell of which was extremely fragrant; there was also +a plenty of good grass, among which grew peas that were then in blossom. +They saw hundreds of painted geese, (so called from their beauty) which +were feeding among this variety of sweets: they likewise found an +abundance of plants, and wild celery in great quantities. Many Indian +wigwams were seen, situated in the woods, near streams of water; these +had been lately occupied, as the fires appeared but just burnt out. In a +walk of twelve miles they saw no place proper for a boat to land, the +sea breaking high on the shore. Mr. Byron returned in the evening, and +found that some of the men had been shooting geese, teal, and snipes, +while others had employed themselves, with equal success, in fishing: +these employments indeed became necessary, as the men could have eaten +thrice their allowance, owing to the keen air of the country. + +On the 26th they steered for Port Famine, and came to an anchor, close +to the shore, the next day at noon. In this place they found drift-wood +enough to have supplied a thousand vessels. The Commodore went four +miles up Sedger river, but could proceed no farther, the trees which had +fallen across the stream impeding the boat’s way; one of the stumps of +them having made a hole in her bottom, she was immediately filled with +water: but they made shift to get her on shore, and stopped the leak, so +as to return in her to the mouth of the river. The banks of this stream +are furnished with the noblest trees, sufficient in number to supply +masts for the whole navy of Great Britain. Some of these were so large, +that four men joined hand in hand could not enclose them; and, among the +rest, the pepper tree was found. These woods abound in parrots, and +other beautiful birds. The quantity of fish that was daily taken was +equal to the supply of both the crews; and the Commodore shot as many +geese and ducks as furnished several tables besides his own. + +While the ships lay at anchor here, Mr. Byron and a party went on shore; +but being catched in a violent rain, they stopped where some Indians had +left a fire, the wood of which was yet warm; and kindling a fire to dry +their cloaths, another fire was instantly made on Terra del Fuego, the +opposite shore, which they imagined to be a signal, on a supposition +they were Indians. The hills were craggy, of an amazing height, and +wholly covered with snow; but the plains were adorned with flowers, +equal in fragrance and beauty to those in the gardens of England. + +The Commodore having ordered a tent to be erected on the borders of a +wood, and adjoining to a rivulet, three of the sailors were there +stationed to wash linen, and they laid in the tent. One evening, soon +after they had retired to rest, they were awakened by the deep and +hollow roarings of some wild beasts, which came nearer them every +moment. Terrified with apprehension, they made and kept up a blazing +fire, round which the beasts walked at a small distance till the dawn of +the morning, when they retired. + +Near where the ships rode at anchor was a hill cleared of wood, which +they imagined to have been a Spanish settlement, mention of which is +made in Captain Wallis’s Voyage, as will be seen in the course of this +work. Both ships having taken in sufficient wood and water by the 4th of +January, 1765, they sailed at four o’clock in the morning, in quest of +Falkland’s Islands; but the wind dying away, they were obliged to come +to an anchor the day following. + +On Sunday the 6th they again made sail, and the Commodore, who had been +twenty-four hours on deck, retired to sleep; but he was soon awakened by +the vessel beating on a bank. Happily, at this instant, it was a perfect +calm, so that the rising of the tide soon carried the ship safe off +again. On the 8th the officer of the watch discovered that the head of +the main-mast was sprung, which they supposed to have happened in a +violent gale some time before; but effectual methods were immediately +taken to repair the damage. + +On the 12th they saw land, which was taken for De Wert’s Islands, and at +the same time other land to the south, which was judged to be what is +called New Islands in the charts. This land consists chiefly of +mountainous and barren rocks, on which were great numbers of birds. +Seals abound here, and large whales were seen spouting round the ship. +On the 14th they saw a flat island, covered with tufts of grass as large +as bushes; and on the following day the Commodore sent a boat from each +ship, to examine an opening which had the appearance of an harbour; +which being discovered, they stood in for it in the afternoon, and found +it excellent beyond their most sanguine hopes. Soon after this they +entered another harbour, to which Mr. Byron gave the name of Port +Egmont, from the title of the nobleman at that time First Lord of the +Admiralty. This harbour is represented to be the finest in the world, +and capacious enough to contain the whole navy of England, in full +security: there is plenty of fresh water in every part of it; and geese, +ducks, snipes, and other edible birds, abound in such numbers, that the +sailors were tired with eating them. The geese were knocked down with +stones, so that it was no unusual thing for a boat to bring off sixty or +seventy of those birds, without the necessity of shooting a single one. +Seals and penguins abound here; sea lions of a prodigious size are found +on the coast; and there is plenty of muscles, cockles, clams, and +limpets. The woods produce sorrel and wild celery in great abundance. + +The Commodore was once unexpectedly attacked by a sea lion, and +extricated himself from the impending danger with great difficulty: they +had many battles with this animal, the killing of one of which was +frequently an hour’s work for six men; one of them almost tore to pieces +the Commodore’s mastiff dog, by a single bite. The Master having been +sent to sound the coast, four very fierce animals ran after the boat’s +crew till they were up to their bellies in water; so that they were +obliged to put from the shore, as they had no fire-arms in the boat. The +next day, on the opposite shore, Mr. Byron and his company saw a sea +lion of an enormous size; and the crew, being well armed, instantly +engaged him. While they were thus employed, one of the other animals +posted towards them; but a ball being lodged in his body, he was +instantly dispatched. Five of these beasts were killed this day, in +their attempts to seize the men, whom they always pursued the moment +they got sight of them. They were of a mixed shape, between a wolf and a +fox; most like the latter, but of the size of the former. They burrow in +the ground like a fox, feed on seals and penguins, and are very numerous +on the coast. The sailors, in order to be rid of such disagreeable +companions, set fire to the grass, which burnt so rapidly, that the +country was all in a blaze for some days, and these animals were seen +running to seek shelter from its fury. + + [Illustration: _The Wolf Fox of Faulkland’s Islands._] + +While they lay in this harbour the crew breakfasted on portable soup and +wild celery, thickened with oatmeal, which made a very nutritive mess. +The soil of the island was a light clay under a black mould. The +Commodore thinks this the same place which, in Cowley’s Voyage, is +called Pepys’ Island; but he took possession of the harbour, and all the +adjacent islands, by the name of FALKLAND’S ISLANDS, for George the +Third, King of Great Britain. It is to the honour of the Surgeon of the +Tamar frigate, that during their stay there, he made a fence of turf +near the watering-place, round a tract of land, which he planted with +vegetables, for the use of those who may hereafter touch at this port. + +On Sunday, January the 27th, they left Port Egmont, and the same day saw +a remarkable head-land, which was named CAPE TAMAR; soon after which +they passed a rock, which Mr. Byron called the EDISTONE, and then sailed +between that and a head-land, to which he gave the name of CAPE DOLPHIN. +The distance from Cape Tamar to Cape Dolphin is about eight leagues, +and, from its appearance, was called CARLISLE SOUND, though it is since +known to be the northern entrance of the streight between the two +principal islands. The land seen during the course of this day was all +downs, having neither trees nor bushes, but large tufts of grass in +various places. + +Having anchored during the night, they sailed again the next day, when +the Commodore gave the name of BERKLEY’S SOUND to a deep sound between +the islands. About four miles to the southward of the south point of +this sound the sea breaks very high, on some rocks that appear above +water. The coast now wore a dangerous aspect, rocks and breakers being +at a considerable distance from the shore, and in all directions; and +the country appeared barren and desolate. The sea now rising high, the +Commodore sailed to the northward, to prevent being driven on a +lee-shore. He imagines the whole circumference of Falkland’s Islands to +be little less than 700 miles. + +At eight in the evening they stood to the westward, and held their +course till the 6th of February, when they saw, and stood in for, Port +Desire, at the mouth of which they came to an anchor, and had the +pleasure of seeing the Florida, a store-ship, which they had expected +from England. On Thursday the Master of the store-ship went on board the +Dolphin, and informed the Commodore of the extreme bad condition of his +ship; on which it was resolved to attempt the unloading her in the +harbour, though a place very ill calculated for the purpose. They +therefore entered the harbour; but the night proving very tempestuous, +the Tamar and the Florida both made signals of distress, having been +driven from their moorings up the harbour. On this and the following +night they were both saved from driving on shore; and as the store-ship +was in constant danger of being lost, Mr. Byron sent hands on board to +assist in repairing her, and resolved to take her with him into the +Streight of Magellan before he unloaded her. In this harbour the rudder +of the Dolphin was likewise repaired, there being no timber proper for +making her a new one. + +On the 13th the Florida put to sea, with orders to steer directly for +Port Famine; and on the next day she was followed by the Dolphin and +Tamar. The three following days they saw a strange vessel following +them, which shaped her course, and sailed faster or slower, exactly as +they did, a circumstance that caused much speculation. The Commodore +being obliged to wait for the Florida, which was far a-stern, imagined +the stranger would speak with him, and therefore made the necessary +dispositions to give her a proper reception. When he came to an anchor +the stranger did the same, four miles to windward of him; but in the +morning she was seen three leagues to the leeward. She now got under +way, and approached the Dolphin; on which the Commodore got eight guns, +which were all that could be come at, to one side of the ship, as he lay +at anchor. Neither party hoisted any colours; but about this time the +store-ship running a-ground, the strange vessel hoisted French colours, +and sent two boats, with an anchor, to assist her. The Commodore now +sent a boat from each of his ships to the assistance of the Florida, +with positive orders not to let the French boats board her; but to +acknowledge, in a proper manner, the offer of assistance. These orders +were obeyed, and the store-ship was got off. + +They weighed anchor at six in the evening, and anchored again at eleven; +at which time the French vessel did the same, but in a situation that +shewed her ignorance of the channel they were in. + +On the 19th they again sailed; and as the French vessel steered after +them, Mr. Byron thought they came from Falkland’s Islands, where there +was then a French settlement, to take in wood, or that they were on a +survey of the Streight of Magellan, in which they were now sailing. On +the 20th they reached Port Famine, when the Dolphin and Tamar having +taken as much provision out of the store-ship as they could find room +for, the Master received orders to sail for England as soon as possible; +it being determined to navigate the other ships through the Streight. + +On the 25th they passed the French ship, which was in a small cove, and +near her a large quantity of wood, which the Commodore had no doubt was +intended for their new settlement. On Mr. Byron’s return to England this +appeared to be the fact; and that the ship was commanded by Mons. +Bougainville, and called the Eagle. + +The rest of the account of their passage thro’ the Streight of Magellan, +consists chiefly of the names of places, and descriptions of soundings, +bearings and distances, which could not fail of proving unintelligible, +if not disgusting, to the generality of readers. Whatever is really +worth the notice of those who read either for instruction or +entertainment, shall be faithfully recited in the following pages. + + [Illustration: A CHART of the _STRAITS_ of MAGELLAN.] + +The mountains on both sides of the Streight are covered with snow from +the top to the bottom; are steep and craggy, and of a most desolate +appearance. On the 1st of March two or three canoes of Indians followed +the ship, one of which went on board. This canoe was of bark, and +wretchedly made: it contained some men, women, and a boy, who had bows +and arrows, which they exchanged for beads and other trinkets: the cord +of the bow was made of the gut of some beast dried, and the arrows were +formed of a reed, pointed with a green stone. These people had no other +garment than a seal skin thrown over their shoulders, and they made, on +the whole, a most wretched appearance. When the ship came to an anchor, +several of the Indians went on board, and gladly accepted some ribbands, +beads, and other trifling matters, with which the Commodore presented +them. These people subsist chiefly on muscles and berries, some of the +latter of which they gave Mr. Byron, when he returned their visit on +shore. + +Having narrowly escaped the dreadful effects of a storm on the 3d of +March, boats were repeatedly sent out till the 6th, in search of a +proper place to anchor in; and at length the Dolphin was moored in a +little bay opposite Cape Quod; and the Tamar, which could not work up so +far, about six miles to the eastward of it. This part of the Streight +being only four miles over, its appearance is dreary and desolate beyond +imagination, owing to the prodigious mountains on each side of it, which +rise above the clouds, and are covered with perpetual snow. On the 8th +they met with a large number of shell-fish; and on this day the +Commodore went up a deep lagoon under a rock, at the head of which was a +fine fall of water, and on the east side of it several small coves, +calculated for the secure reception of ships of the greatest burden. + +On the 12th an officer was sent in a boat, in search of an harbour; and +in two days he returned with an account, that there were five bays +between the ship and Cape Upright, in any one of which they might anchor +securely. While this officer was absent, he met with some Indians, who +made him a present of a dog, and one of the women having a sucking +child, offered to give it him! At this time winter commenced with all +its severity, and the hills were soon covered with snow. The cold became +so intense that the seamen, whose clothes were continually wet, suffered +severely: to fortify them against this inclemency of weather, the +Commodore gave a warm jacket of woollen stuff, called fearnought, to the +crews of both ships, officers included. + +On the 16th perceiving they lost ground on every tack, they came to an +anchor; but finding the ground to be rocky, they weighed again, and +every man on board was on deck the rest of the day and the whole night, +during which time the rain poured down on them in unremitting torrents. +Notwithstanding this incessant labour, they found, in the morning, that +they had been only losing way, owing to the rapidity of the current. +They were now glad to anchor in the very bay they had left two days +before. + +As it continued to rain and blow violently for two days longer, the +Commodore sent a boat to sound the bay on the north shore; but no +anchorage could be found. On the 20th the vessel was driven from her +moorings, but by heaving up the bower-anchor, and carrying out another, +they soon restored her to her situation. After labouring all day on the +21st, they had gained only two miles on the current, when they came to +an anchor; but the sea running high, they sailed the day following; and +the current now running to the westward, they made great way, and, in +the evening, anchored in a commodious bay, where the Tamar had arrived +before them. It is remarkable that, notwithstanding the late severity of +the weather added to their incessant labour, the crew retained both +health and spirits. + +On the 23d they again set sail, and in a few hours had sight of the +South Sea, which rolled a prodigious swell on them. On the 25th two +boats which had been sent in search of anchoring-places, returned with +an account, that they had found two, but neither of them very eligible; +they, however, made sail the next morning, and at four in the afternoon +found themselves within a mile of the south shore, which the thickness +of the weather prevented their seeing sooner; but as there was no place +to anchor in, they stood for the opposite shore. Between six and seven +the Tamar was ordered under the stern of the Dolphin, and then directed +to keep a-head of her during the night to show lights, and as often as +she varied her tack to fire a gun. At seven in the evening the weather +cleared for a minute, so that they had sight of the north-shore, bearing +west by north, on which they instantly tacked-about. The wind now blew a +perfect hurricane; the rain descended in torrents; some of the sails +were torn to rags; and during this tempestuous night, in which the sea +was continually breaking over them, the ships parted company, and were +encompassed with rocks and breakers: however, they happily weathered the +storm, and at seven in the morning both ships came to an anchor. They +had now been twice within four leagues of Tuesday’s Bay, at the western +mouth of the streight, and twice driven ten or twelve leagues back again +by storms; so dangerous is the navigation of this streight at an +improper season of the year. + +On the 28th the Tamar narrowly escaped being dashed to pieces against +the rocks, by the parting of the cable to her best bower-anchor. The +Dolphin weighed anchor the next morning, and got under sail, which she +had no sooner done, than signals of distress were made on board the +Tamar, the anchor of which could not be purchased. The Dolphin, +therefore, stood again into the bay, and sent her the proper assistance, +after which they both anchored for the night; a night the most dreadful +they had yet known. The winds were so violent as perfectly to tear up +the sea, and carry it higher than the heads of the masts: a dreadful sea +rolled over them, and broke against the rocks with a noise as loud as +thunder. Happily, they did not part their cables, or they must have been +dashed in pieces against these rocks. + +On the following day (April 1st) it was almost a perfect calm; but in +the evening it rained much, and the wind blew violently: they therefore +remained in their station till the 4th, when the cutter, which had been +sent in search of a proper anchoring-place, returned with an account, of +having found such place to the west of the north-shore. + +The officer who commanded the cutter had met with a party of Indians, +whose canoe was of a construction not observed before, being composed of +planks sewed together. These Indians had no covering but a piece of +seal-skin thrown over their shoulders. Their food, which was of the most +indelicate kind, was eaten raw: one of them tore a piece of stinking +whale’s blubber with his teeth, and then gave it his companions, who +followed his example. One of these Indians observing a sailor asleep, +cut off a part of his jacket with a sharp flint. + +The ships soon came to an anchor in the bay which had been discovered, +proposing to take in wood and water. While they remained here, several +of the natives made a fire opposite the ship; on which signals were made +for them to come on board; but as they would not, the Commodore went on +shore, and gave them some trifles, which pleased them highly; he +likewise divided some biscuit among them, and was surprized to remark, +that if a bit of it fell to the ground, not one of them would stoop to +take it up without his permission: some of the sailors being at this +time cutting grass for a few sheep which the Commodore had on board, the +Indians instantly ran to their assistance, and tearing up the grass in +large quantities, soon filled the boat. On Mr. Byron’s return, they +followed in their canoe till they came near the ship, at which they +gazed with the most profound astonishment. Four of them were at length +prevailed on to go on board; and the Commodore, with a view to their +diversion, directed one of the midshipmen to play on the violin, while +some of the seamen danced; the poor Indians were extravagantly +delighted; and one of them, to testify his gratitude, took his canoe, +and fetching some red paint, rubbed it all over the face of the +musician; nor could the Commodore, but with the utmost difficulty, +escape the like compliment. When they had been diverted for some hours, +it was hinted to them, that they should go on shore which they at length +did, tho’ with evident reluctance. + +They sailed from this bay on the 7th, and on the 8th again encountered +very bad weather, as it rained and snowed, while the wind blew a +hurricane. On the 9th they passed some dangerous rocks, which in +Narborough’s Voyage are called the Judges, and on which the surf beats +with prodigious violence. This day, contrary to expectation, a steady +gale at south-west carried them at the rate of nine miles an hour, so +that by eight in the evening they were 20 leagues from the coast on +which they had encountered so many perils. + +The Commodore recommends it to future navigators, to be at the eastern +entrance of the Streight of Magellan in December; in which case he +thinks even a fleet of ships might navigate it safely in about three +weeks. He observes, that the facility with which wood and water are to +be obtained; the vast plenty of vegetables on the coast, and the +abundance of fish which may be almost every where procured, are +advantages highly in favour of this passage. It is remarkable, that in +seven weeks and two days, the time they were in passing it, not a single +man was sick of the scurvy, or any other disorder. + +On the 26th they sailed westward, bearing away for the Island of +Masafuero, which they were within seven leagues of the same evening. The +next day they bore away for the north of the Island, and then lay by for +the boats, which had been sent to sound the eastern side, but could not +land for the violence of the surf. The boats returning, brought a number +of fine fish, which had been catched with the hook and line: and the +officer reporting, that he had found a bank where they might anchor, and +opposite to which was plenty of fresh water; they made sail for this +bank, on which they anchored at 7 o’clock on Sunday morning. The boats +were now sent out for wood and water, their crews having put on +cork-jackets, to assist them in swimming, and prevent their being +bruised against the rocks. In these seas were a great number of very +large sharks, which were frequently very near the swimmers; but they +providential escaped them. One of these voracious fish seized a large +seal close to one of the watering-boats, and devoured it in an instant; +and the Commodore saw another do the same, close to the stern of the +ship. The island abounds in goats, many of which were killed and sent on +board, and they were deemed equal in flavour to the finest venison. One +of the goats had his right ear slit, so as to make it evident that some +person had caught him, given him that mark of distinction, and let him +go again. Various sorts of excellent fish were now so plenty, that they +could catch sufficient to supply the whole crew two days, in a few +hours, with hook and line only. + +The gunner and one of the seamen, who were, with others, on shore for +water, were left behind all night, being afraid to venture in the boat, +as the sea ran high. The Commodore being informed of this circumstance, +sent them word, that as blowing weather might be expected, the ship +might be driven from her moorings in the night, in which case they would +infallibly be left behind. This message being delivered, the gunner swam +to the boat; but the sailor saying, he had rather die a natural death +than be drowned, refused to make the attempt; and taking a melancholy +farewell of his companions, resolved to abide his fate; when, just as +the boat was going to put off, a midshipman took the end of a rope in +his hand, and swam on shore, where he remonstrated with the poor tar on +the foolish resolution he had taken, till having an opportunity of +throwing the rope, in which was a running knot, round his body, he +called to the boat’s crew, who instantly dragged their companion on +board, but he had swallowed so much water that he appeared to be dead. +They recovered him, however, by holding up his heels, and on the day +following he was perfectly well. + +The Commodore now made a promotion among the officers, he appointed +captain Mouat, captain of the Dolphin under him, making Mr. Cumming, the +first lieutenant of the Dolphin, captain of the Tamar, and advancing +some other inferior officers. + +They sailed on the 30th of April, steering in various directions till +the 10th of May, on which, and the day following, they saw several +dolphins and bonettas round the ship, and observed a few birds which had +a short beak; all their bodies being white, except the back and the +upper part of the wings. They saw several grampuses the next day, and +more of the birds just mentioned; from whence they concluded, that they +approached some land. Two remarkable birds, as large as geese, with +white bodies and black legs, and which flew very high, were observed on +the 16th, from whence it was conjectured, that they had passed some +main-land, or islands. On the 22d they saw several tropic birds, and +caught two bonettas; and on the 26th two large birds, the beak and neck +of which were white, and all the rest black, flew about the ship. On the +28th two other birds, one black and white, and the other brown and +white, would have settled on the yards, but were intimidated by the +working of the ship. For several days after they saw great numbers of +birds, and on the 7th of June they discovered land, being then in +fourteen degrees five minutes south latitude, and 144 degrees 58 minutes +west longitude. + +The Commodore now steered for a small island, the appearance of which +was pleasing beyond expression, being surrounded by a beach of fine +white sand, and covered with lofty trees, which extending their shade to +a considerable distance, and having no underwood, formed the most +elegant groves that the imagination can paint an idea of. Several of the +natives soon appeared, having long spears in their hands, who made large +fires, which were answered by corresponding fires on an island to the +windward. A boat was sent to look out for an anchoring-place, but none +was to be found. At this time many of the best hands were confined to +their hammocks with the scurvy; while those who were able to keep the +deck, looked and languished for those re-invigorating delicacies which +were unhappily beyond their reach. The shells of turtle were strewed +along the shore, and they beheld numbers of cocoa-nuts, to the milk of +which fruit the scurvy seldom fails to yield. The inhabitants of this +island kept a-breast of the ship, dancing and shouting: they sometimes +shook their spears, and then falling backwards, lay motionless, as if +dead, which was understood to be a threat of destruction to such as +should presume to land. They likewise fixed two spears in the sand, on +the top of which were fastened some things which waved in the air: +before these they kneeled, and appeared as if invoking the assistance of +the Deity against the supposed invaders. The Commodore was tempted, from +its very appearance, to sail round the island; while he was doing which, +he again sent out boats to sound; on, which the natives made a most +hideous out-cry; took up and balanced large stones in their hands, and +pointed to their spears. The sailors, on the contrary, made every +possible sign of friendship, throwing bread and other things on shore; +which they would not touch, but retired to the woods, dragging their +canoes after them. This being done, they ran into the water, watching as +for an opportunity to drag the boat on shore. The seamen, irritated at +this behaviour, would have fired on the Indians, but were restrained by +command of the officer on board. + +The crew of the boats having again reported, that no anchorage could be +found, the Commodore proceeded to the other island, and on the next +morning brought to, at three quarters of a mile from the shore. Several +other islands were now seen, covered with the cocoa-nut-tree. The +natives again ran to the beach, armed with clubs and spears, using +threatening gestures. The Commodore fired a cannon-shot over their +heads, on which they retreated to the woods. The boats having been again +sent out, returned with an account, that no landing-place could be +found; on which Mr. Byron named this paradise in appearance, the ISLANDS +OF DISAPPOINTMENT. The natives are stout, and well made, very quick +runners, and their complexion is that of the deep copper. + +Having sailed on the 8th of June, they discovered an island on the day +following, which laid low, and was covered with various kinds of trees, +among which was the cocoa-nut; the island was surrounded with a rock of +red coral. The inhabitants on the coast having made large fires, as +supposed to alarm the more inland natives, they ran along the shore in +multitudes, armed like those of the Islands of Disappointment. The +vessels now brought to, at a small inlet, opening into a lake of salt +water, which appeared more than two leagues wide. At this place was a +little town, under the shade of a grove of cocoa-nut-trees. The ships +advancing to the mouth of the inlet, some hundreds of the natives, +headed by a kind of officer, who carried a pole, on which was fastened a +piece of mat, ranged themselves up to the waists in water, making a +hideous noise, till they were joined by a number of large canoes which +came down the lake. At this time two boats were out in search of +soundings, and the crews of them making every possible sign of +friendship, some of the canoes drew towards them, not, indeed, as we +hoped, with a peaceable intention, but with a view to haul the boats on +shore: several of the natives, leaping from the rocks, swam to the +boats; and one of them sprang into the Tamar’s boat, snatched up a +seaman’s jacket, and instantly dived from the boat to the shore: another +of them laid violent hands on a hat, but lost his prize through his +ignorance, as he pulled it downwards, instead of lifting it from the +head. + +They now sailed westward, and soon discovered another island, distant +four leagues. The natives pursued them in two large double canoes, in +each of which were about thirty armed men. At this time the boats were +at a considerable way to leeward of the ships, and were chaced by the +canoes; on which the Commodore making a signal, the boats turned towards +the Indians, who instantly pulled down their sails, and rowed away with +great rapidity: they drove through the violent surf on the shore, and +were followed by the boats; when, apprehending the invasion of their +country, they armed themselves with stones and clubs; on which the +boat’s crew fired, and killed two or three of them, one of whom died as +he was throwing a stone at his enemy, after three balls had gone thro’ +his body[1]. This poor fellow dropping close to the boats, his body was +brought to the ship; but the Indians carried off the rest of their +companions. The boats carried the two canoes with them, as the trophies +of their scandalous victory. These vessels consisted of planks sewed +together, with a strip of tortoiseshell fixed over each seam: they had +sharp bottoms, and were very narrow; and two of them were fastened +a-longside each other by two timbers, which left a space of full six +feet between the canoes: a sail, made of neat matting, passed from one +vessel to the other, being fixed to a mast which was hoisted in each of +them: when they sail, several men sit on the timbers which lay from boat +to boat: their cordage appeared to be formed of the outer covering of +the cocoa-nut, and was exquisitely well made. + + [1] Horrid, wanton murder!--If discoveries are to be purchased at such + a price, the southern hemisphere had better have remained unknown. + +As no refreshments could be obtained, owing to the violence of the surf, +the Commodore returned to his former station at the inlet, and again +sent the boats in search of an anchoring-place. A number of the Indians +were on the spot where he had left them, and were loading some large +canoes, most probably to attack the boats; on which a shot was fired +over their heads, and they instantly ran away and secreted themselves. +The boats returned in the evening, with a few cocoa-nuts; and in the +morning were sent out again, with all the invalids who were able to go +in them. The Commodore went on shore this day, and saw many Indian huts, +which were covered with the branches of the cocoa-nut-tree: they were +mean buildings, but finely situated among groves of lofty trees. The men +went naked; but some women were seen, who wore a kind of cloth from the +waist to the knee. The shore abounded with coral, and the shells of +large pearl oysters; and ’tis probable a valuable pearl-fishery might be +established here. There were many dogs in the huts, who kept barking +constantly till our adventurers went on board. + +The next day the seamen found, in one of the huts, the carved head of a +rudder, which had evidently belonged to a Dutch long boat: they likewise +found a piece of brass, another of iron, and some iron tools; but by +whom these things were left is wholly unknown. + +The burial-places of the natives were under high trees, near their +houses; and their tombs consisted of flat stones, laid on perpendicular +side stones, like those in the church-yards of England. On the branches +which shaded these repositories hung baskets of reeds, containing the +heads and bones of turtle and other fish, and near the graves were +several boxes filled with human bones. + +The flies on this island were extremely troublesome, but no venomous +creature was seen. Parrots and other birds were very plentiful, and they +saw some beautiful doves, so tame as to follow them into the huts of the +Indians. The water of the island is good, and the surface of the ground +is almost covered with scurvy-grass. This part of the island is situated +in 14 degrees 29 minutes south, and 148 degrees 50 minutes west. + +On Wednesday, June the 12th, they sailed to another island, and as they +coasted along it, the natives, armed as those of the other islands, kept +even with the ship for some leagues. They frequently plunged into the +sea, or fell on the sand, that the surf might break over them, to cool +and refresh themselves. The boats being near the shore, the crew made +signs that they were in want of water; on which the natives pointed +farther along the shore, where, when the boats arrived, they saw a +number of houses, and whither they were followed by the Indians, many +more of whom joined them at this place. The boats having got close in +shore, and the ships laying at a small distance, a venerable old man, +with a white beard, advanced from the houses to the beach, attended by a +young fellow. Having made a signal for the other Indians to retire, he +came forward to the edge of the water, pressing his beard to his breast +with one hand, and holding a branch of a tree in the other. He now made +a kind of musical oration, during which the people in the boat threw him +some trifling presents, which he would neither take up, nor permit his +attendant to touch till he had finished his harangue, when he walked +into the water, and throwing the branch to the boat’s crew, he retired, +and picked up their presents. Most of the natives having complied with a +sign made for them to lay down their arms, one of the Midshipmen swam +ashore; on which they flocked round him, admiring his cloaths; as his +waistcoat pleased them most he gave it to them, which he had no sooner +done, than one of them untied his cravat and ran away with it. He now +thought it time to retreat to the boat, whither several of the natives +swam after him; some bringing each a cocoa-nut, and others fresh water +in the nut-shell. The boat’s crew had taken with them some shells of the +pearl oyster, in order to learn of the natives how to procure some +pearls; but they could not possibly make them comprehend their meaning. +This island is situated in 14 degrees 41 minutes south latitude, and 149 +degrees 15 minutes west longitude; and both the islands the Commodore +called KING GEORGE’S ISLANDS, in respect to his Sovereign. In a lake +belonging to the last island, two or three very large vessels were seen, +one of which had two masts, with proper cordage. + +The boats having returned on board, they sailed westward the same day; +and the next afternoon decried another island, towards which they +immediately sailed, and found that it was well inhabited, and had a fine +appearance of verdure; but that a violent surf broke all along the +coast. It lies in 15 degrees south, and 151 degrees 53 minutes west, and +received the name of the PRINCE OF WALES’S ISLAND. + +They now sailed northward. From the vast flocks of birds they had +repeatedly seen, which always winged their way to the south, on the +approach of evening; and from the islands being so well peopled, the +Commodore concluded that there was a chain of islands leading to a +continent, the discovery of which he would certainly have attempted, but +the crews of both ships were so unhealthy, as to render it impossible +for us to succeed. + +On Monday, June the 17th, they concluded that land was near, from the +multitudes of birds which flocked about the ship; but they saw no land +till the 21st, when it was discovered at eight leagues distance, having +the appearance of three islands, with rocks between them. These islands +abounded with inhabitants, whose dwellings lined the coast; and the +beauty and fertility of the soil, seemed to excel that of any place they +had seen: but the rocks and breakers with which it was surrounded, were +an insuperable bar to any attempt at landing. On the night of the 21st +all hands were on deck, as it rained hard, and the wind blew violently. +Soon after nine o’clock the Tamar fired a gun, and the crew of the +Dolphin imagined they saw breakers to leeward; but it proved to be only +the undulating reflection of the setting moon on the waters. + +On the 24th they discovered another island, which was named the DUKE OF +YORK’S ISLAND. A terrible sea breaks round the coast, but the place +itself had a pleasing appearance. The boats landed with some difficulty, +and brought off a large quantity of cocoa-nuts, which were a great +relief to the sick. Thousands of sea-fowls were found sitting on their +nests in high trees, and were so tame as to be easily knocked down, and +there were great numbers of land-crabs on the ground. This island has a +large lake in the midst of it, but has no inhabitants. + +On the 29th they sailed northward, with a view to cross the equinoxial +line, and then sail for the Ladrone Islands. On the 2d of July they +discovered a low flat island, abounding with the cocoa-nut and other +trees, and affording a most agreeable prospect. A great number of the +natives were seen on the beach, many of whom, in above sixty canoes or +proas, sailed, and formed a circle round the ships; which having +surveyed for a considerable time, one of the Indians jumped out of his +boat, swam to the ship, ran up its side in a moment, sat down on the +deck, and began laughing most violently: he then ran about the ship, +pilfering whatever he could lay hands on, which was taken from him as +fast as stolen. This man having as many antic tricks as a monkey, was +dressed in a jacket and trowsers, and afforded exquisite diversion. He +devoured some biscuit with great eagerness, and having played the +buffoon some time, made prize of his new dress, by jumping over the side +of the ship, and swimming to his companions. Several others now swam to +the ship, and running up the side to the gun-room ports, committed some +petty theft, swimming off with their booty with surprising expedition. +These Indians are of a bright copper, with regular and chearful +features, and are tall and well made. Their hair, which is long and +black, is either tied in three knots, or in a large bunch behind. Their +ears were bored, and they certainly had worn heavy ornaments in them, as +some of them were drawn down almost to their shoulders: their ornaments +were shells strung together, and worn round the waist, wrist, and neck; +but they were otherwise naked. One of them, who seemed to be of some +rank, wore a string of human teeth round his waist. Some of them carried +a long spear, the sides of which, for the length of three feet, were +stuck with the teeth of the shark, which are as keen as a razor. Some +cocoa-nuts being shewn them, and signs made that more were wanted, they +endeavoured to steal those, instead of directing where more might be +found. + +The officers named this place BYRON’S ISLAND, in honour of the +Commodore. It lies in 1 degree 18 minutes south latitude, and 173 +degrees 46 minutes east longitude. They sailed from hence on the 3d of +July, on the 21st of which month the men again grew ill of the scurvy, +having eaten up all the cocoa-nuts, which are, perhaps, the best cure +for this disorder in the world. Several of the people were also troubled +with fluxes, owing to the extreme heat of the weather. On the 22d they +sailed for the island of Tinian, being nearly in the latitude of that +place; and six days afterwards they had sight of the islands Saypan, +Tinian, and Aiguigan, which lie between two and three leagues from each +other. At noon, on the 31st, they anchored at the south-west end of +Tinian, in the situation where the Centurion had anchored with Commodore +Anson. The water is so wonderfully clear at this place, that, though 144 +feet deep, they could see the ground. + +The Commodore went on shore, where he saw many huts, which had been left +the preceding year by the Spaniards and Indians. Having chosen a spot on +which to erect tents for the sick, Mr. Byron and his company, with +prodigious difficulty, worked their way through the woods, in search of +those elegant meadows and lawns, of which so enchanting a picture is +given in Anson’s Voyage: but, to their unspeakable mortification, they +found the lawns covered with reeds, in which their legs were entangled, +and cut as with whipcord; and these reeds were, in some places, higher +than their heads, and in none less than half that height. From head to +foot they were covered with flies, which got down their throats as often +as they opened their mouths. In this excursion they killed a bull, and +then retiring to the tents, which had been erected in their absence, +they sent a party to fetch home their prize. + +The invalids having been brought on shore the preceding day, they, on +the 1st of August, began clearing the well, which Mr. Byron supposes to +be the same that the Centurion watered at; but he says the water was +brackish, and full of worms. While they lay here the wind once drove in +so violently from the west, that the ships were obliged to put to sea +for a week, to avoid being dashed against the rocks. The armourer’s +forge was brought on shore, to repair the iron-work of the ships; and +the Commodore had a tent erected, as he was very ill of the scurvy. The +crew recovered apace from the scurvy; but many of them were seized with +fevers, of whom two died, being the first they had lost since they left +England. The rains were violent, and almost perpetual; and the heat so +intense, that the thermometer on board the ship generally stood at 86, +only 9 degrees less than the heat of the blood at the human heart. +Innumerable insects tormented them; and they were perpetually infested +by musquitos in the night, and flies by day. The island swarms also with +black ants, centipieds, and scorpions. + +Parties were sent out to kill cattle, which, after being absent three +days and nights, and killing a bullock, had seven or eight miles to drag +it through the woods and lawns, and when it arrived, it was commonly +fly-blown, and stunk intolerably: add to this, that the extreme toil of +this duty brought on fevers, which confined the men to their tents. They +killed poultry with ease; but the heat was so excessive, that it would +turn green, and swarm with maggots, in less than an hour after it was +killed. They killed wild hogs that weighed 200 pounds each, which +afforded them their chief supply of fresh meat. A negro belonging to the +Tamar contrived a method to ensnare these animals, so that they sent +many on board alive, and were thus always certain of having fresh meat +both in the ship and on shore. + +A spot having been found where cattle were plentiful, a party was sent +to kill them, having a tent erected for their use, and boats were sent +daily to bring away what they killed: three of the crew of the Tamar +were lost in this service, by the violent breaking of the sea upon the +rocks. Bread was now baked every day for the use of the sick, and, upon +the whole, they were well supplied with provisions. + +The island of Saypan is not only larger, but pleasanter than Tinian. It +is, in a great degree, covered with trees, and abounds with hogs and +guanicoes. It is conjectured that the Spaniards, at stated periods, +carry on a pearl-fishery at this island, as there were evident signs of +people having been lately there, and large heaps of the oyster-shells +were seen. + +The Commodore remained at Tinian till the 30th of September, by which +time the sick being tolerably well recovered, he weighed anchor, and +stood to the northward. This island produces plenty of cotton and +indigo, with cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, guavas, paupaus, sour oranges, and +limes. + +On the 18th of October several land-birds, apparently much fatigued, +flew near the ship; one of which, of the size of a goose, rested on the +booms: its legs and beak were black, but every other part white; and the +beak was of a most monstrous length and thickness. On the 30th they saw +a number of trees and bamboos floating near the vessel, which was then +in 23 fathom water. On the 5th of November they came to an anchor off +the Island of Timoan, on which Mr. Byron landed the day following. The +inhabitants, who are Malays, no sooner saw the boat making for the +shore, than many of them came to the beach, each having a dagger by his +side, a spear in one hand, and a long knife in the other. The boat’s +crew, however, made no hesitation to land, and bartered a few +handkerchiefs for a goat, a kid, and a dozen of fowls. + +The Malays are of a copper complexion, well made, but of small stature. +They wore turbans on their heads, and pieces of cloth, fastened with a +silver clasp, round the waist; but one old man among them was habited +nearly in the Persian fashion. Their houses, which are raised on posts +eight feet from the ground, are composed of the bamboo, slit, and are +very neatly constructed. The island produces the cocoa-nut and +cabbage-trees in great abundance, and there are some rice grounds on it. +While the ships lay at anchor, some of the inhabitants brought a living +animal on board, which had legs like that of a deer, with a body like a +hare, which proved to be very fine eating. The crews catched large +quantities of fish in this harbour, from whence they sailed on the 7th +of the month. + +Nothing worth notice happened till the 14th, when a sloop being seen at +anchor in the harbour of an Island named Pulo Toupoa, Mr. Byron, having +anchored in the same harbour, and observed that the vessel hoisted Dutch +Colours, sent an officer on board her, who was received with great +politeness, tea being immediately made for him and his attendants; but +he could not make himself understood, the crew consisting entirely of +Malays. This vessel, which was made of slit bamboo, had a piece of +timber on each quarter, which served to steer her instead of a rudder. + +The Commodore sailed the following day, and held his course till the +19th, when he spoke with an English Snow, bound from Bencoolen to +Malacca and Bengal, in the East India Company’s service. At this time +their biscuit was filled with worms and rotten, and their beef and pork +was stinking. The master of the Snow being apprized of this +circumference, sent Mr. Byron two gallons of arrack, a turtle, twelve +fowls, and a sheep; which is supposed to have been the half of his +stock, and for which he refused to accept the slightest return. They +dropped their anchors this day in the road of Sumatra; and on the 27th, +came to an anchor in that of Batavia. + +Having anchored nearer the town on the following day, they fired eleven +guns, which were returned; and an English ship from Bombay fired 13 guns +in honour of the Commodore. + +The Dutch Commodore sent his boat on board the Dolphin, under the +command of his cockswain, who made but a shabby appearance. He put +several questions to Mr. Byron respecting his voyage and destination, +and took a book from his pocket to write down his answers, which Mr. +Byron considering as an indignity, desired him instantly to leave the +ship; which he did not think proper to hesitate at doing. + +Mr. Byron visited the Dutch Commodore at his country-house, was received +with great politeness, and told, that he might take a house in any part +of the city, or be lodged at the hotel. Any inhabitant of Batavia +permitting a stranger to sleep, though but for a single night, in his +house, incurs a penalty of 500 dollars; the hotel being the only +licensed lodging house, the Governor appoints the keeper of it, who at +this time was a Frenchman. This hotel is the most superb building in the +city, having more the air of a palace than an inn. All the streets of +Batavia are well disposed, and having canals running through them, +resemble the cities of Holland. The inhabitants are a motley herd of +Dutch, Portuguese, Chinese, Persians, Moors, Malays, Javanese, &c. and +their numbers are amazingly great. The Chinese live in a kind of +separate town without the city walls, and deal very largely, having +annually ten or twelve vessels laden from China. The roads, for several +miles round the city, are very wide, and have a canal, shaded with +trees, running by them, which is broad enough for the navigation of +large vessels. Adjoining to this canal are the country-houses and +gardens of the citizens. + +The ships remained in this harbour till the 10th of December, when they +sailed, being saluted with eleven guns by the fort, and thirteen by the +Dutch Commodore. During their run from hence to Prince’s Island, in the +Streight of Sunda, they were so abundantly supplied with turtle, by +boats from the Java shore, that the common sailors subsisted wholly on +that fish. They staid at Prince’s Island till the 19th, when they sailed +for the Cape of Good Hope. + +On the 10th of February they saw a great smoke arising from a sandy +beach, which they supposed to have been made by the Hottentots. On the +13th they came to an anchor, and the next morning the Governor sent his +coach and six for the Commodore, and received him with great politeness, +offering him the accommodations of the company’s house in the garden, +and the use of his coach. The Cape is a fine country, situated in a +healthy climate, and abounding with various kinds of refreshments. In a +paddock adjoining the Company’s garden, which is extremely elegant, +ostriches, zebras, and other curious birds and animals are constantly +kept. The Commodore frequently gave his men permission to go on shore, +and they as constantly returned--drunk with the Cape wine. + +They sailed on the 7th of March, and on the 25th crossed the equinoctial +line. About this time an accident happening to the rudder of the Tamar, +and it being impossible to make a perfect repair of it at sea, the +Captain was ordered to bear away for Antigua; in consequence of which, +they parted company on the first of April; and the Dolphin, without +meeting with any other material occurrence, came to an anchor in the +Downs on the 9th of May, 1766, after having been rather above twenty-two +months in the circumnavigation of the globe. + + + + + CAPTAIN WALLIS’S + VOYAGE + ROUND THE WORLD. + + +Samuel Wallis, Esq; having been appointed to the command of his +Majesty’s ship the Dolphin, which was destined for a Voyage round the +World, he sailed down the river on the 26th of July, and came to an +anchor in Plymouth Sound on the 16th of August; three days after which +he received sailing orders, and directions to take under his command the +Swallow sloop, and Prince Frederick store-ship. These vessels sailed on +the 22d, and on the 7th of September, in the evening, came to an anchor +in the road of Madeira. The next morning Captain Wallis saluted the +Governor with 13 guns, and the compliment was returned with an equal +number. + +They sailed thence on the 12th, after having taken in beef, wine, and +onions, as sea-stores. On the 16th, as they were sailing off the Island +of Palma, at the rate of eight miles an hour, the wind suddenly died +away, so that the vessels lay quite still. On the 20th they catched +several bonettas, out of a great number which surrounded the ship; and +this day they saw some herons flying to the eastward. The Swallow, which +was a bad sailer, parted from the other vessels, in the night between +the 21st and 22d, but she joined company again on the 24th, within six +leagues of the Isle of May. This day the three vessels came to an anchor +in Port Praya, in the above-mentioned island; and the next morning they +obtained leave from the commanding officer at the fort, to get water and +other necessaries. This being the sickly season there, and the small-pox +being very fatal, the Captain detained every man on board who had not +had that distemper. + +They here catched great quantities of fish, and having procured cattle +and water, and found some wild purslain that was very refreshing, they +sailed on the 28th; and, in the night, saw the burning mountain on the +peak of Fuego. Captain Wallis now ordered every man to be furnished with +hook and line, that he might supply himself with fish; and likewise, to +prevent infection, commanded that no man should keep his fish above +twenty-four hours. On the 20th they began to serve the crews with oil, +all the butter and cheese being consumed; and orders were issued, that, +during the remainder of the voyage, they should be served with vinegar +and mustard once a fortnight. On the 22d they judged that they were +within 60 degrees of land, from the sight of a great number of birds. +Two days after this orders were given for serving the men with brandy, +the wine being reserved for those that were ill. On the 27th the Prince +Frederick sprung a leak, and her crew were at this time so sickly, +through the fatigue of pumping, and the badness of their provisions, +that her commander, Lieut. Brine, was apprehensive he could not keep +company much longer, except some assistance could be given him. The +Captain sent a carpenter and six sailors on board, but he was unable to +supply her with better provisions. As the carpenter found he could do +little toward stopping the leak in the store-ship, the Dolphin and +Swallow compleated their provisions from her stores, and put on board +her the empty oil jars, staves, and iron hoops. + +By the 12th of November they were in 30 degrees of south latitude, when +they found the weather so cold as to have recourse to their thick +jackets. On the 19th, at eight o’clock at night, they saw a meteor, +which flew horizontally from north-east to south-west, leaving a train +of light, which made it as bright as at mid-day on the deck. From the +20th to the 22d they saw whales, seals; snipes, plover, and other birds, +and some butterflies. On the 8th of December they saw land, and on the +9th remarked, that the sea appeared coloured, by the immense quantities +of red shrimps that surrounded the ship. + +On the 16th, being very near Cape Virgin Mary, they saw several men +riding on the shore, who made signs for them to land. Having come to an +anchor, they observed that the natives remained opposite the ship all +night, shouting aloud, and keeping up large fires. In the morning the +Captain went on shore, with a boat’s crew from each ship, and having +made signs for the Indians to sit down, he gave them combs, buttons, +knives, scissars, beads, &c. and pleased the women greatly by the +distribution of some ribbands. He then intimated that he should be glad +to accept some guanicoes and ostriches, in exchange for bill-hooks and +hatchets, which he shewed them; but they were either really or +designedly ignorant of his meaning. The tallest among these people was +six feet seven inches, several others were from one to two inches +shorter; but the general height was from five feet ten to six feet. They +were muscular and well made, but their hands and feet very small, in +proportion to the rest of their bodies. They were dressed in the skin of +the guanico, with the hairy side to their bodies; and some of them wore +a square piece of cloth, made of the hair of the guanico, and a hole +being cut to admit the head through, it reached down to the knees: they +wore likewise a kind of buskin from the middle of the leg to the instep, +which was also conveyed under the heel, but the rest of the foot was +bare: their hair, which was strait and coarse, was tied back with a +cotton string; and their complexion was the dark copper. They rode on +horses about fourteen hands high, and had dogs of the Spanish kind; both +men and women rode astride, and the men were furnished with wooden +spurs: some of the men had their arms painted, the faces of others were +variously marked, and others again had the left eye enclosed by a +painted circle. Their arms were two round stones, enclosed with leather, +one of which was fastened at each end of a string eight feet in length: +and one stone being held in the hand, the other was swung round the head +with great force for some time, and then discharged at any mark they +chose to strike. They likewise catch guanicoes and ostriches by means of +this cord, which is thrown so, that the weight twists round and hampers +the legs of the intended prey. Some of them were observed to devour the +paunch of an ostrich raw, having only turned the inside outwards, and +shook off some of the filth. + +These people, who are great talkers, were often heard to say +_Ca-pi-ta-ne_, on which they were successively addressed in Portuguese, +Spanish, Dutch, and French; but they had no knowledge of either of those +languages. When they shook hands with any of the crew, they always said +_chevow_; and they were amazingly ready in learning English words, and +pronounced the sentence “Englishmen come on shore” with great facility. + +As they seemed desirous of going on board, the Captain took eight of +them into the boats, on which they instantly began singing for joy; but +when they came into the ship, they expressed no kind of surprize at the +novelties they beheld, till a looking glass being observed, they acted +many antic gestures before it, occasionally walking to and from it, +talking with earnestness, and laughing immoderately. They would drink +nothing but water, but they eagerly ate every article of the ship’s +provisions. They were highly pleased with some turkies and guinea-hens +which were on board, nor did the hogs and sheep escape their attention. +One of them making signs that he should be glad of some cloaths, the +Captain gave him a pair of shoes and buckles, and presented the rest +with a little bag each, in which he put new six-pences and halfpence, +with a ribband passed through a hole in them, to hang round their necks: +the remaining contents of the bag were, a looking-glass, a comb, some +beads, a knife, a pair of scissars, some twine, and a few slips of +cloth: being offered some tobacco, they smoked a few minutes, but did +not seem to like it. The marines being exercised before them, they were +terrified at the firing of the muskets, and one of them falling down, +shut his eyes, and lay without motion, as if to intimate that he knew +the destructive nature of those weapons. + +It was with difficulty that they were at length prevailed on to go on +shore; and one of them would not leave the ship till he had sung a long +kind of prayer, and even petitioned to stay till evening, by pointing to +the sun, and then moving his hand round to the western horizon. As soon +as they were in the boat they began to sing, and did not cease till they +reached the shore, where many of their companions pressed eagerly to be +taken into the boat, and were highly affronted at being refused. + +This day they turned into the Streight of Magellan with the flood-tide, +and saw many people on horseback hunting the guanicoes, which ran up the +country with prodigious swiftness. The natives lighted fires opposite +the ships, and in the morning about 400 of them, with their horses +feeding near them, were observed in a valley. This being the spot where +Mr. Byron saw the Patagonians, some officers were sent towards the +shore, but with orders not to land, as the ships were too far off to +assist them in case of necessity. When they came near the land, many of +the natives flocked towards them, among whom were women and children, +and some of the very men they had seen the preceding day: these waded +towards the boat, frequently calling out, “Englishmen come on shore;” +and were with difficulty restrained from getting into the boat, when +they found the crews would not land. Some bread, tobacco, and toys were +distributed, but not an article of provisions could be obtained in +return. + +On the 23d the tide was so violent, that the ships were driven three +several ways; but in the evening they were safely anchored. On +Christmas-day they procured a quantity of celery from Elizabeth Island, +which being boiled with portable soup and wheat, the crews breakfasted +on it several days. Many huts were found on this island, and two dogs +were seen; but the Indians had quitted it for the present. Many high +mountains were observed, which, though it was then the midst of summer, +were, in a great degree, covered with snow. + +On the 26th they anchored in Port Famine Bay, and the sick were sent on +shore, where a tent was erected for their reception, as was another for +the accommodation of the sail-makers, and those who landed to get wood. +On the 28th the empty water-casks were landed; and on this day great +quantities of fish were catched, among which were smelts. When they +arrived here, many of the people were very bad with the scurvy; but by +the plentiful use of vegetables, and bathing in the sea, they all +recovered in a very short time. + +All hands were now employed in repairing and storeing the ships; and +thousands of young trees were carefully taken up with the mould about +them, to be carried to Falkland’s Islands, which produce no timber. + +On the 17th of January, 1765, the Master of the Dolphin, who had been in +search of anchoring-places, returned with an account, that he had found +such as were proper for the purpose; and this day the Prince Frederick +sailed for Falkland’s Islands. + +They sailed on the 18th, and came to an anchor the next day, half a mile +from the shore, opposite a current of fresh water, that falls rapidly +from the mountains. As a more convenient anchoring-place, and at the +same time better adapted for procuring wood and water, had been +discovered, they sailed again the next day, and, on the 23d, came to an +anchor in the bay near Cape Gallant, where they catched wild ducks in +such numbers, as to afford them a very seasonable relief. Near this spot +are very high mountains, one of which was climbed by the Master of the +Swallow, with the hope of getting a view of the South Sea; but being +disappointed in his expectation, he erected a pyramid, and having +written the ship’s name and the date of the year, he left the same, with +a shilling within the structure. + +On the 24th they saw an animal that was as swift as a deer, and had a +cloven foot; but in other respects it was like an ass. Near this spot +the country has a most forbidding aspect:--the mountains on both sides +of the Streight are of a stupendous height; the lower parts of them are +covered with trees, above which a space is occupied by withered shrubs; +higher up are fragments of broken rock, and heaps of snow; and the tops +are totally rude, naked, and desolate. + +On the evening of the 28th they saw a great smoke on the southern shore, +and another on Prince Rupert’s Island; and the next morning some people +being sent on shore for water, they had no sooner landed, than several +of the natives came off in three canoes; and, having advanced towards +the sailors, made signs of friendship, which being answered to their +wish, they shouted aloud, and the English shouted in return. When the +Indians came up they were eating the flesh of seals raw, and were +covered with the skins, which stunk intolerably. They had bows, arrows, +and javelins, the two last of which were pointed with flint. These +people were rather low of stature, the tallest of them not exceeding +five feet six inches, and their complexion was the deep copper colour. + +Three of these people being taken on board the Dolphin, they ate +whatever food was offered them; but, like the Patagonians, would drink +only water:--like them too, they were highly diverted with a +looking-glass, in which they at first looked with astonishment, till, +having become a little more familiar with it, they smiled at its effect; +and finding a corresponding smile from the figure in the glass, they +burst into most immoderate fits of laughter. + +The Captain going on shore with them, presented some trinkets to their +wives and children, and received some of their arms, and pieces of +mundic, of the kind found in the tin mines of Cornwall. These Indians +went off in canoes, the sails of which were made of the seal-skin. + +The ships sailed on the 3d of February, and came to an anchor in York +Road on the same day. The next morning Captain Wallis, with a party, +went on shore near Batchelor’s River, and saw many Indian huts, and +several dogs, which ran away the moment they were noticed: they likewise +saw ostriches, and collected various kinds of fish and vegetables. There +is a cataract near this river, the noise of which is tremendous, as it +falls more than 400 yards, partly ever a very steep descent, and partly +in a perpendicular line. + +They sailed on the 14th, and came to anchor again the same day in York +Road, after having lost ground by the contrary winds. The next morning +they were driven with such violence by the current, as to be in +momentary expectation of being dashed against the rocks, from which they +were frequently not half the length of the ship; but they were +providentially preserved, and came to an anchor in BUTLER’S BAY, which +was so called from the name of one of the mates, who discovered it. They +kept this station till the 20th, when they encountered a most violent +storm, attended with hail and rain, which increased till the evening, +the sea breaking over the forecastle upon the quarter-deck; yet, as the +cables did not part, they were again wonderfully preserved from +destruction. They remained here eight days, taking in wood and water, +and repairing the little damage the ship had sustained in the storm. +They catched fish of various kinds, among which were muscles near six +inches in length; and procured plenty of vegetables. The mountains in +this neighbourhood had the most rugged and desolate appearance; but +their height could not be ascertained, as their heads were lost in the +clouds; and some of them, on the southern shore, were so exceedingly +desolate, as not to produce even a single blade of grass; while the +vallies were equally barren, and almost covered with snow. + +On the 1st of March they sailed again, and anchored on the same day in a +bay which they called LION’S COVE, from whence they sailed on Monday; +and on the five following days encountered such terrible weather, that +they had no prospect before them but that of immediate destruction: and +the crew on board the Dolphin were so prepossessed that the Swallow +could not ride out the storm, that they imagined they saw some of her +hands coming over the rocks towards them. + +The storm at length subsided; but the weather being intensely cold, each +of the men was furnished with a thick jacket, made of the woollen stuff +called Fearnought. During a week which they remained at this place, they +were at two-thirds allowance, brandy excepted. + +On the 15th both ships were safely anchored in a place called SWALLOW +HARBOUR, from whence they sailed the next morning; and on the following +day the Swallow, being driven among breakers, made signals of distress; +but she was happily relieved by a breeze from the shore. + +This day the waves ran high, and there was so thick a fog, that they +narrowly escaped shipwreck among a number of small islands; but the +weather clearing up a little in the afternoon, they came safely to an +anchor in a bay under Cape Upright. + +On the 19th two canoes, having on board several Indians, came a-longside +the Dolphin, who had with them a quantity of seal’s flesh, blubber, and +penguins, which they ate without any kind of dressing. A seaman having +catched a fish bigger than a herring, gave it to one of them, who killed +it by a bite near the gills, and instantly devoured it. These people +would not drink any liquor but water, but they eagerly ate provisions of +any kind, boiled, roasted, raw, salt, or fresh. Though the weather was +very cold, they had no covering but a seal-skin, and even that they did +not wear when they were rowing. It was remarked that they had all sore +eyes, probably occasioned by the smoke of their fires, and they lived in +such a nasty way that they smelt as rank as a fox. They had a kind of +javelin, pointed with bone, which they used in striking fish. The +Captain presented them with a few baubles, with which they departed well +satisfied. + +Twenty-two of the sailors staying one night on an island, thirty of the +natives hurried to their boat, and began to make free with its contents; +but the sailors had just time to hinder their depredations, which +enraging them, they ran to their canoes, and armed themselves with poles +and javelins; but the sailors giving them some small presents, peace and +harmony were soon restored. + +The 30th of the month proving a fine day, they employed themselves in +drying the sails of the ships, which were damaged by having been long +wet. Several Indians went on board the next day, and proved to be the +people which the boat’s crew had seen on shore. + +On the 1st of April some of the natives brought several of the birds +called Race-horses, which they sold to the sailors. The next day eight +Indians brought six of their children on board, whom the Captain +gratified with bracelets and necklaces. These people were exceedingly +tender in the treatment of their children; and a circumstance happened +which proves that they are not less delicate in other respects.--A boat +was ordered on shore to get wood and water; at this time some of the +Indians were on board, and others in their canoes a-longside the ship: +the latter eyed the boat attentively; and, on her putting off, called +aloud to their companions, who, without speaking, instantly handed down +the children, and jumped into the canoes, which were hurried after the +boat, while the Indians cried out in a most distressful tone. When the +ship’s boat was near land, some women were seen among the rocks, to whom +the Indians called out aloud, and they all ran away; but the boat’s crew +having remarked their jealous fears, lay on their oars, to convince them +that no injury was intended. The Indians landed, drew their canoes on +shore, and hastily followed the objects of their affection. + +On the 5th, at the request of the Surgeon, orders were given that no +more muscles, of which they had hitherto collected plenty, should be +brought on board, as the crew began to be troubled with fluxes. On the +10th the two ships sailed in company; and on the 11th they lost sight of +each other, and did not meet again during the whole voyage. This day the +Dolphin cleared the Streight of Magellan, in which she had laboured with +innumerable difficulties, and escaped most imminent dangers, in a +passage of almost four months, viz. from December the 17th, 1766, to the +11th of April, 1767. + +Captain Wallis now proceeds to a description of the places in which the +ships anchored, during their passage through the Streight; but as a +minute recital of bearings, distances, and soundings, would be +unintelligible to most of our readers, and possibly disgusting to them +all, we shall omit these particulars; extracting only such anecdotes as +may furnish real improvement or entertainment. + +In the year 1581 the Spaniards built a town, which they named +Phillipville, and left in it a colony of four hundred persons. These +were all starved to death except twenty-four, all of whom but one +proceeded in search of the river Plata, and most probably perished, as +no tidings were ever heard of them: the remaining man, whose name was +Hernando, was taken on board by Sir William Cavendish, in the year 1587, +and brought to England; and the place was called Port Famine, from the +melancholy fate of these unfortunate men. Wood and water abounds at this +place; geese, ducks, teal, &c. are in great abundance, and there is no +want of fish; so that the face of things must be greatly changed since +the Spaniards died there of hunger. + +Cape Holland Bay, where fish are catched in great plenty; and the +adjacent country produces plenty of cranberries and wild celery, but +there are no birds. At Cape Gallant Bay there is wood, water, +vegetables, and fish; as there is also at Elizabeth’s Bay, and York +Road. Butler’s Bay abounds with rock-fish, muscles, wild-fowls, &c. Lion +Cove and Goodluck Bay produce scarce any thing but wood and water. +Muscles and rock-fish are found at Swallow Harbour, the mountains round +which are desolate beyond description. Upright Bay produces excellent +water, and some wild-fowl and fish. + +On Sunday the 12th of April they held a westward course, during which a +number of sheerwaters, pintadoes, gannets, and other birds, flew about +the ship; the upper works of which being open, and the cloaths and +bedding constantly wet, the sailors in a few days were attacked with +colds and fevers. The 27th of this month proving a fine day, the sick +were brought on deck, and nourished with salop, and portable soup, in +which wheat was boiled. The violent gales soon returned, so that the +beds were again wet through, and it was feared that the ship would lose +her masts: they therefore began to think of altering their course, in +hope of better weather; and the rather, as the number of sick encreased +so fast, that there was danger of soon wanting hands to navigate the +vessel. + +Nothing material happened from this time till the 14th of May, when +something appeared to the eastward, which looked like high land, towards +which a flock of brown birds were observed to fly: they therefore +steered all night for this supposed land; but at day-break could see no +signs of it. As the weather now mended, the people recovered very fast; +and the carpenters were busied in caulking the upper-works of the ship, +and repairing the boats. On the 21st they saw a number of flying-fish, +and on the day following tropic birds, bonettas, and dolphins. About +this time those who had recovered from colds were attacked with the +scurvy; on which some sweet-wort was extracted from malt for their use, +and they were supplied with pickled cabbage, and wine instead of brandy. +Two grampuses were seen on the 26th, and on the day following variety of +birds, one of which was taken for a land-bird, and resembled a swallow. +Every method of cleanliness, and change of food, was now taken to +prevent the scurvy, which began to encrease very fast. + +On the first of June they saw several men of war birds, and the next day +observed some gannets; and the weather being at this time very various, +they conceived hopes that they drew near the land. On the 4th a turtle +swam close by the ship; and the next day a great variety of birds were +seen. + +The long wished-for relief was now fast approaching; for on Saturday the +6th the man at the mast-head cried, “Land in the west-north-west.” This +proved to be a low island, distant five or six leagues, and was soon +seen from the deck, to the great joy of every one on board. When they +came within five miles of this island, they discovered another to the +west-north-west. Two boats were sent to the first discovered island, +under the command of the second Lieutenant, the crews being well +provided with arms. When the boats came near the island, two canoes were +observed to put off to the other island. The crews having landed, +gathered some cocoa-nuts, and collected a quantity of scurvy-grass, with +which they returned to the ship, bringing with them some fish-hooks +which the islanders had formed of oyster-shells. In this excursion they +saw three huts, supported on posts, and open all round, but thatched +with cocoa-nut and palm leaves, ingeniously wrought together. As no +anchorage was to be found, and the whole island was encompassed with +rocks and breakers, the Captain resolved to steer for the other island, +giving the name of WHITSUN ISLAND to this, because it was discovered on +the eve of Whitsunday. + +Having approached the other island, about 50 of the natives, armed with +pikes, and some having fire-brands in their hands, were observed running +on the coast. Two boats were sent out, manned and armed, and the +Lieutenant was instructed to steer for that part of the shore where the +people had been seen; to avoid offending them, and to try to procure +water and fruit in exchange for such commodities as he took with them. +When the boat came near the shore, the natives put themselves in a +position as if they would defend it with their pikes; but the crew +making signs of friendship, and exposing their trinkets, some of the +Indians walked into the water; to whom it was hinted, that some +cocoa-nuts and water would be acceptable; which was no sooner done, than +they fetched a small quantity of each, which they ventured to bring to +the boats, and received some nails and other trifles in exchange. While +they were dealing, one of the Indians stole a silk handkerchief with its +contents, but the thief could by no means be discovered. + +The next morning the boats were again dispatched, with orders to land, +if they could do it without offence to the natives. As they approached +the shore, they observed seven large canoes, each with two masts, laying +ready for the Indians to embark in them: these having made signs to the +crew to proceed farther, and this being done, the Indians embarked, and +sailed westward, being joined by two canoes at another part of the +island. These canoes, two of which were lashed together, appeared to be +30 feet in length, four in breadth, and three in depth. The people had +long black hair hanging over their shoulders, were of a dark complexion, +and of the middle size. They were dressed in a kind of matting made fast +round the middle; and it was remarked, that the women were beautiful, +and the men justly proportioned. + +The Lieutenant being again sent on shore the Captain commanded him to +take possession of the island in the king’s name, and to call it QUEEN +CHARLOTTE’S ISLAND. The boats returned loaded with cocoa-nuts and +scurvy-grass, after having found two wells of excellent water. +Provisions for a week were now allotted for a mate and twenty men, who +were left on shore to fill water; the sick were landed for the benefit +of the air; and a number of hands were appointed to climb the +cocoa-trees, and gather the nuts. + +On the 10th the water was brought on board the ship, but the cocoa-nuts, +and vegetables which the cutter was bringing off, were lost by the +rolling of the waves, which almost filled her with water. On this island +were found several tools, resembling adzes, awls and chissels, which +were formed of shells and stones. The dead bodies were not buried, but +left to decay above ground, under a kind of canopy. + +The ship sailed this day, after taking possession of the islands for the +king; in testimony of which they left a flag flying, and carved his +majesty’s name on a piece of wood, and on the bark of several trees. For +the use of the natives they left shillings, sixpences, halfpence, +bottles, nails, hatchets, and other things. It should be remarked that, +on this island, they found the very people who had fled from Queen +Charlotte’s Island, with several others, in the whole near one hundred. +It lies in 19 degrees 20 minutes south latitude, and 138 degrees 30 +minutes west longitude; and received the name of EGMONT ISLAND. + +On the 11th they observed about sixteen persons on an island which was +called GLOUCESTER ISLAND; but, as it was surrounded with rocks and +breakers, they did not attempt to land. This day they likewise +discovered another, which was called CUMBERLAND ISLAND; and, on the day +following, a third, which received the name of PRINCE WILLIAM HENRY’S +ISLAND. + +On the 17th they again discovered land, and at ten at night saw a light, +which convinced them that it was inhabited; and remarked, that there was +plenty of cocoa-trees, a certain indication that there was no want of +water. + +The day following an officer was sent to the shore, with instructions to +exchange some toys for such things as the island produced. He saw a +great number of the people, but could find no place in which the ship +might anchor. Some of the Indians, who had white sticks in their hands, +appeared to have an authority over the rest. While the Lieutenant was +trafficking with them, an Indian diving into the water seized the +grappling of the boat, while his companions on the shore laid hold of +the rope by which she was fastened, and attempted to draw her into the +surf: but their endeavours were frustrated by the firing of a musket, on +which all parties let go their hold. These Indians were dressed in a +kind of cloth, a piece of which was brought to the ship. + +From the number of the people seen, and their having some large double +canoes on the shore, it was thought that there were larger islands at no +great distance: the Captain, therefore, having named this place +OSNABURGH ISLAND, made sail, and having soon discovered high land, came +to an anchor, because the weather was very foggy. + +Early the next morning they saw land, distant 4 or 5 leagues; but after +having sailed towards it some time, thought it prudent again to anchor, +on account of the thickness of the fog: but it no sooner cleared away, +than they found the ship encompassed by hundreds of canoes, in which +were many hundreds of people. Having approached the ship, they beheld it +with wonder, and talked with great earnestness. Some baubles were now +shewn them, and signs were made for them to come on board, on which they +rowed the canoes towards each other, and a general consultation took +place; at the conclusion of which they all surrounded the ship with an +appearance of friendship, and one of them delivered an oration, at the +conclusion of which he threw into the sea the branch of a plantain-tree +which he had held in his hand. This being done, a young Indian, of more +apparent courage than the rest, ventured on board the ship. The Captain +would have given him some baubles, but he refused the acceptance of them +till those in the canoes came a-longside, and, having held a +consultation, threw on board several branches of the plantain-tree. +Others now ventured on board; but it was remarked, that they all got +into the ship at some improper part, not one of them, even by accident, +finding the right place of ascent. + +A goat belonging to the ship having ran his horns against the back of +one of the Indians, he looked round with surprize, and seeing the animal +ready to renew the attack, he sprang over the ship’s side, and was +instantly followed by all his countrymen. Their terror, however, soon +subsided, and they returned to the ship; and the sheep, hogs and poultry +being shewn them, they intimated that they possessed the two latter +species. The Captain now gave them nails and other trifles, and made +signs that he wanted hogs, fowls and fruit; but they could not +comprehend him. They were detected in several attempts to take away any +thing they could lay hold of; but one of them, at length, jumped +overboard with a laced hat snatched from one of the officers. + +The inner parts of the island abound in hills cloathed with timber +trees, above them are high peaks, from which large rivers descend to the +sea. The houses, when seen at a distance, resemble a barn, having no +shelter but a roof: the land towards the sea is level, and produces the +cocoa-nut, with variety of other fruits; and the face of the whole +country is picturesque beyond description. + +They now sailed along the shore, while the canoes, which could not keep +pace with them, made towards the land. In the afternoon the ship brought +to, and the boats being sent to sound a bay that promised good +anchorage, the Indian canoes flocked round them. The Captain, +apprehensive that their designs were hostile, made a signal for the +boats to return to the ship, and fired a gun over the heads of the +Indians. Though they were frightened at the report, they attempted to +prevent the return of the cutter, but she easily out-sailed them. This +being observed by some canoes in a different station, they intercepted +her, and wounded some of her people with stones, which occasioned the +firing a musket, and some shot were lodged in the shoulder of the man +who began the attack; which the Indians observing, they all made off +with the utmost precipitation. + +The boats having reached the ship, preparations were made for sailing; +but a large canoe being observed to make towards her at a great rate, it +was resolved to wait the event of her arrival; on which an Indian, +making a speech, threw a plantain-branch on board, and the Captain +returned the compliment of peace, by giving them a branch, which had +been left on board by the other Indians: some toys being likewise given +them, they departed with much seeming satisfaction. + +They now sailed; and the next morning were off a peak of land which was +almost covered with the natives and their houses. On the 21st the ship +came to an anchor, and several canoes came a-longside of her, bringing a +large quantity of fruit, with fowls and hogs, for which they received +nails and toys in exchange. The boats having been sent to sound along +the coast, were followed by large double canoes, three of which ran at +the cutter, staved in her quarter, and otherwise damaged her; the +Indians, at the same time, armed with clubs, endeavouring to board her. +The crew now fired, and wounding one man dangerously, and killing +another, they both fell into the sea, whither their companions dived +after them, and got them into the canoe. They now tried if they could +stand or sit; but as the one was quite dead, they laid him at the bottom +of the canoe; and the wounded man was supported in a sitting posture. +The ships boats now kept on their way, while some of the canoes went +ashore, and others returned to the ship to renew their merchandize. + +While the boats continued out in search of soundings, the natives swam +off to them with water and fruit. The women were particularly urgent for +the sailors to land, and, pulling off all their cloaths, gave hints, of +the most indelicate nature, how acceptable their company would be. + +The boats being sent on shore with some small casks to get water, the +Indians filled two of them, and kept all the rest for their trouble. +When the boats came off, the shore was crouded with thousands of men, +women, and children. During this time several canoes remained a-longside +the ship; but the Captain would not permit a single Indian to go on +board, as there was no guarding against their artful disposition. + +On the 22d the natives brought hogs, poultry, and fruit to the ship, +which they bartered for knives and other things; so that the whole crew +was supplied with meat for two days, by means of this traffick. The +boats having been this day sent for water, every inducement was used by +the inhabitants to persuade them to land: and the behaviour of the women +was still more lascivious than before. Having procured a small quantity +of water, the boats put off; on which the women shouted aloud, pelted +them with apples and bananas, and shewed every mark of contempt and +detestation. + +The ship made sail the day following, with intention to anchor off the +watering-place; but the man at the mast-head discovering a bay a few +miles to the leeward, they immediately stood for it. The boats, which +were a-head, making a signal for anchorage, they prepared to bring to; +but when the ship had almost reached the boats, she suddenly struck, and +her head remained immoveably fixed on a coral rock; in which situation +she remained near an hour, when she was happily relieved by a breeze +from the shore. During the whole time that she was in danger of being +wrecked, she was encompassed by hundreds of Indians in their canoes; but +not one of them attempted to board her. The ship was now piloted round a +reef, into an harbour, where she moored. + +The Master was then sent to sound the bay, and found safe anchorage in +every part of it. In the mean time some small canoes brought provisions +on board; but as the shore was crouded with large canoes, filled with +men, the Captain loaded and primed his guns, supplied his boats with +musquetoons, and kept a number of the men constantly under arms. + +On the 24th the ship sailed up the harbour, and was followed by many +canoes, bringing provisions, which were exchanged for nails, knives, &c. +In the evening a number of very large canoes advanced, laden with +stones; on which the Captain ordered the strictest watch to be kept. At +length some canoes came off, with a number of women on board, who, being +brought almost under the ship, began to practise those arts of +indelicacy already mentioned. During this singular exhibition the large +canoes came close round the ship; some of the Indians playing on a kind +of flute, others singing, and the rest blowing a sort of shells. Soon +after a large canoe advanced, in which was an awning, on the top of +which sat one of the natives, holding some yellow and red feathers in +his hand. The Captain having consented to his coming a-longside, he +delivered the feathers; and while a present was preparing for him, he +put back from the ship, and threw the branch of a cocoa-tree in the air. +This was, doubtless, the signal for an onset; for there was an instant +shout from all the canoes, which, approaching the ship, threw vollies of +stones into every part of her. On this two guns, loaded with small shot, +were fired, and the people on guard discharged their muskets. The number +of Indians now round the ship were full two thousand; and though they +were at first disconcerted, they soon recovered their spirits, and +renewed the attack. Thousands of the Indians were now observed on shore, +embarking as fast as the canoes could bring them off: orders were +therefore given for firing the cannon, some of which were brought to +bear upon the shore. This firing put a stop to all hostilities, on the +part of the Indians, for a small time: but the scattered canoes soon got +together again, and, having hoisted white streamers, advanced, and threw +stones of two pounds weight from slings; by which a number of the seamen +were wounded. At this time several canoes approached the bow of the +ship, from whence no shot had been yet discharged. In one of these was +an Indian, who appeared to have an authority over the rest: a gun was +therefore levelled at his canoe, the shot of which split it in two +pieces. This put an end to the contest; the canoes rowed off with the +utmost speed, and the people on shore ran and concealed themselves +behind the hills. + +The Captain now sailed for his intended anchoring-place, and moored the +ship within a small distance of a fine river. The next morning some +persons, who had been sent to survey the shore, returned with an account +that the river produced fresh water, and that there was not a single +canoe to be seen. + +This day a Lieutenant was dispatched, with all the boats manned and +armed, and a number of marines, with orders to land under cover of the +ship and boats; which being effected, he turned a piece of turf, and +having hoisted a pendant on a staff, he took possession of the place, +for his Sovereign, by the name of KING GEORGE THE THIRD’S ISLAND. He +then mixed some rum with the river water, and every person present drank +the King’s health. At this time the Lieutenant observed two old men on +the opposite side of the river, who seemed much terrified, and assumed a +posture of supplication. Signs were made for them to cross the river, +which one of them having done, he crawled on his hands and knees towards +the Lieutenant; who, shewing him some stones that had been thrown at the +ship, hinted that the Indians should receive no harm if they were not +the aggressors. Some hatchets were now produced, to intimate that they +wished to barter for provisions; and some trifling matters were given to +the Indian, who testified his joy and gratitude by dancing round the +pendant. He then plucked some branches of trees, which he laid on the +ground, and retreated; but soon returning with several others, they +advanced towards the pendant, which happening to be shaken by the wind, +they ran back with evident signs of astonishment. They soon recovered +from their surprize, and procuring two hogs, laid them down at the foot +of the flag-staff, and danced round it; after which they put the hogs +into a canoe, and the old Indian rowed it to the ship: when he came +a-longside he delivered a serious oration, in the course of which he +handed up a number of plantain-leaves, one at a time: this being done, +he rowed back, after refusing several presents that had been offered +him. + +In the night a number of lights were seen on the coast, and the noise of +drums and other instruments of music was heard. Soon after daylight it +was observed that the Indians had left the coast, and taken away the +pendant. This day, while a party was engaged in filling the water-casks, +the old man, who had been seen the day before, crossed the river, and +brought with him some fowls and fruit. The Captain, who was indisposed +on board the ship, employed himself in remarking what was going forward +on shore; and, by the help of glasses, he saw many of the Indians +creeping behind the bushes towards the watering-place, while incredible +numbers were coming through the woods, and a large party descending a +hill, all advancing to the same spot; and two divisions of canoes were +making round the opposite points of the bay. The Lieutenant, seeing his +danger, got his party on board the boats; but not before he had sent the +old Indian to prevail on the others to keep at a proper distance, as he +wanted only water:--but this had no effect; and, as soon as the crews +were in the boats, the natives possessed themselves of the casks as +lawful prize. Those at some distance from the watering-place pushed +forward with all speed, keeping pace with the canoes, which were rowed +at an extraordinary rate; while a great number of women and children +were seated on a hill, from whence they could command a view of all that +passed. + +When the canoes came near that part of the bay where the ship rode, they +took in many people from the shore, who were laden with bags filled with +stones. All the canoes now approached the ship; on which the Captain +gave orders to fire on the first cluster of them that should assemble; +this had such an effect, that they all rowed off with the utmost speed. +They then fired into several parts of the wood, on which the Indians all +fled to the hill where the women and children were; so that several +thousands were now on that spot. The Captain being resolved to make this +action decisive, fired towards the hill; and two balls falling near a +spot where many of these poor Indians had stationed themselves, they +were all terrified beyond description, and disappeared in an instant. + +When this disagreeable skirmish was ended, the boats were hoisted out, +and a strong guard sent with the carpenters, who had orders to destroy +every canoe they could find; and this service was performed with such +alacrity, that in a few hours a great number of these vessels were cut +in pieces, several of which were of the largest size. Some fruit, fowls, +and hogs, were found in a few of the smallest; but the rest were laden +with stones and slings. + +It was not long before a small party of Indians advanced to the +sea-shore, and sticking up some small branches of trees, went back to +the woods: but they came again repeatedly, bringing with them a quantity +of the cloth they wear, and some dogs and hogs with their legs tied; all +which they laid on the shore, making signs to the sailors to take them. +A boat being sent on shore, the hogs were conveyed on board, but the +other articles left. In return for these presents, several hatchets and +nails were left on the beach, and signs made to some of the Indians +within sight to come and take them; which they neglected to do for some +time, till the Captain having sent for the cloth, the natives then +accepted his presents with apparent satisfaction. + +On the 27th, while a party was getting water, the old man +before-mentioned appeared on the opposite side of the river; and having +harangued them some time, he came over; when the officer, pointing to +the bags and stones which had been brought down, tried to convince him +that his countrymen had injured the English, who had acted only on the +defensive. His meaning seemed to be well understood, but the old Indian +could not admit the force of his arguments:--on the contrary, he +expressed very forcibly, by his countenance, voice, and actions, the +high sense he had of the injury offered his unhappy friends. At length a +reconciliation took place; the old man shook hands with, and accepted +some presents from the Lieutenant, who tried to convince him of his +good-will; hinted that the natives should not appear but in small +parties, and that while the boats crews were on one side of the river +they should remain on the other. The old man departed with evident signs +of being content with these terms; and in a few hours the natives began +a traffic, which proved highly advantageous to the ship’s company. + +The sick were now sent on shore, and lodged in a tent near the +watering-place, under the care of the Surgeon. This gentleman having +shot a wild-duck, it dropped near some Indians on the opposite side of +the river, who were so terrified that they instantly fled; but stopping +within a short space, he prevailed on one of them to bring over the +duck, which he at length complied with, and laid it at the Surgeon’s +feet, while his looks expressed the fear and agitation of his mind. At a +second shot three ducks were killed; which gave the natives such an idea +of the effects of a gun, that to this circumstance is chiefly attributed +the regularity of their behaviour in all their transactions, while the +English remained among them. + +Orders were now issued, that the gunner should transact all matters of +trade between the Indians and the sailors, with a view to prevent +pilfering and quarrelling: the natives, indeed, would sometimes steal a +trifle, but the very sight of a gun procured instant restitution of it. +The old Indian, having been attached to the English, was very useful in +the recovery of the stolen goods. One day an Indian swam over the river, +and took a hatchet, on which the gunner made preparations as if he would +go in search of the thief; but this being intimated to the old man, he +immediately went after the lost goods, which he brought back. The gunner +now demanded that the culprit should also be produced, and the old +Indian complied, though much against his inclination. The prisoner, who +had committed other robberies, was sent on board the ship, whence the +Captain discharged him, without farther punishment than the terror +arising from his situation. His countrymen were transported with joy to +see him come back; and he was conducted into the woods, amidst the +applausive shouts of his friends. This man had the gratitude to bring a +roasted hog and some bread-fruit to the gunner next day, as an +acknowledgment for the lenity shewn him. + +The Captain, First Lieutenant, and Purser, were at this time very ill; +so that the care of the vessel, and the superintendence of the sick, +were committed to the Second Lieutenant, who discharged his duty with +such zeal and fidelity, that all was order and decorum. Fruit, fowls, +and fresh pork, were procured in such plenty, that at the end of +fourteen days almost every man had perfectly recovered his health. + +On the 29th a piece of saltpetre, of the size of a small egg, was found +on shore; but whether it had been brought from the ship, or not, could +not be learnt, after the most diligent enquiry; but no other piece was +found on the island. + +On the 2d of July they began to want fruit and fresh meat, owing to the +absence of the old Indian; but they had still a sufficient supply for +the sick. On the 3d the ship’s bottom was examined, when its condition +was nearly the same as when she left England. This day a shark was +caught, which proved an acceptable present to the Indians. + +The old Indian, who had visited the interior parts of the island, in +quest of provisions, returned on the 5th, and brought with him a roasted +hog as a present for the Captain, who, in return, enriched him by +putting him in possession of a looking-glass, an iron pot, &c. His +return was soon followed by some of the natives who had never yet +visited the market; these brought some hogs that were larger than any +yet purchased. + +A traffick of a singular kind was now established between the Indian +girls and the sailors. The price of a lady’s favour was a nail or two; +but as the tars could not always get at the nails, they drew them out +from several parts of the ship; nor could a single offender be +discovered by the strictest enquiry. The damage done to the ship could +be easily repaired; but one ill consequence arose from this traffick, +which could not have been foreseen: for on the gunner’s offering small +nails for hogs, the Indians produced large spikes, demanding such as +those. Some of the men made use of a singular device to gratify their +passions; for, when they could procure no more nails, they cut lead into +the shape of nails, and passed it as sterling on their unsuspecting fair +ones. When the Indians discovered the fraud, they demanded nails for the +lead; but this just demand could not be granted, because it would have +promoted the stealing of lead, and thereby injured the traffic with +iron. + +The sailors, in consequence of their connection with the women, became +so impatient of controul, that the Captain ordered the articles of war +to be read, to awe them into obedience; and a Corporal of marines was +severely punished, for striking the master at arms. The Captain’s health +being now nearly restored, he went in his boat to survey the island, +which he found extremely delightful, and every where well peopled. + +On the 8th the wood-cutters were entertained in a friendly manner by +some Indians, who seemed to be of a rank above those they had yet seen: +and some of these visiting the Captain, he laid before them a thirty-six +shilling piece, a guinea, a crown-piece, a dollar, some shillings, new +halfpence, and two large nails; and having intimated that they might +take their choice, they eagerly seized the nails, and then took a few +halfpence; but left all the other pieces untouched. + +The Indians now refused to supply the market, unless they could get +large nails in exchange: the Captain therefore ordered the ship to be +searched, when it was found that almost all the hammock-nails were +stolen, and great numbers drawn from different places: on which every +man was ordered before the Captain, who told them, that not a man should +go on shore till the thieves were discovered; but no good consequence +arose from his threats. + +Three days after this, the gunner conducted to the ship a lady of a +portly figure and agreeable face, whose age seemed to be upwards of +forty. This lady had but lately arrived in that part of the island; and +the gunner, observing that she seemed to have great authority, presented +her with some toys; on which she invited him to her house, and gave him +some fine hogs. She was afterwards taken on board at her own desire, +where her whole behaviour indicated the woman of fine sense and superior +rank. The Captain presented her with a looking-glass and some toys, and +gave her a handsome blue mantle, which he tied round her with ribbands. + +Having intimated that she should be glad to see the Captain on shore, he +signified his intention of visiting her on the following day. +Accordingly on Sunday the 12th, Captain Wallis went on shore, where he +was met by his fair friend, who was attended by a numerous retinue, some +of whom she directed to carry the Captain, and others who had been ill, +over the river, and thence to her habitation: the procession was closed +by a guard of marines and seamen. As they advanced, great numbers of +Indians crowded to see them; but, on a slight motion of her hand, they +made ample room for the procession to pass. + +Having come near her habitation, many persons of both sexes advanced to +meet her, whom she caused to kiss the Captain’s hand, while she +signified that they were related to her. Her house was above 320 feet in +length, and about 40 in breadth. The roof, which was covered with the +leaves of the palm-tree, was supported by a row of pillars on each side, +and another in the middle. The highest part of the thatch on the inside +was about 30 feet from the ground, and the space between the sides of +the building and the edge of the roof being 12 feet, was left entirely +open. + +The Captain, Lieutenant, and Purser, being seated, the lady helped four +of her female attendants to pull off their coats, shoes, and stockings; +which being aukwardly performed, the girls smoothed down the skin, and +rubbed it lightly with their hands for more than half an hour; and the +gentlemen received great benefit from the operation. The Surgeon, being +heated with walking, having pulled off his wig, one of the Indians +screamed out; the eyes of the whole company were instantly fixed on the +miraculous sight, and they remained some time in the most profound +astonishment. When they had recovered from their surprize, the lady +ordered several bales of cloth, the produce of the island, to be brought +out, in which she dressed the Captain and all his attendants. Orders had +been given, that the Captain should be carried as before; but as he +chose to walk, she took hold of his arm, and when they came near any wet +or dirty places, she lifted him over, with as much ease as a man would a +child. She attended them to the shore, when she took her leave; having +presented the Captain with a fine sow, big with young. + +On the following day the gunner being dispatched to this lady, with a +compliment of bill-hooks, hatchets, &c. found her entertaining many +hundreds of the natives, who were seated in order round her habitation. +A mess was ordered for the gunner, who reported, that it was of an +agreeable flavour, and seemed to be a compound of fowls and apples, +shred in small pieces, and mixed with salt-water. The lady herself +distributed the provisions, which were served in cocoa-nut shells, and +those shells brought in trays by her servants. When the company were all +fed, the lady took her seat somewhat above the rest, and was fed by two +female servants, one standing on each side of her. She received the +Captain’s presents with evident signs of satisfaction. + +From this period the crew was much better supplied with refreshments, +hogs and fowls being brought to the market daily; but they could not be +purchased at the former prices, owing to the commerce before-mentioned, +between the sailors and the Indian women: the Captain therefore ordered, +that not one woman should be permitted to come over the river, and that +no man should leave the ship till he had first been searched. + +The gunner, who was on shore on the 14th, met with the following +affecting incident. He saw an old woman, on the opposite side of the +river, weeping in a most lamentable manner. When she found he regarded +her distress, she sent a youth to him, who, having made a long oration, +laid a branch of plantain at his feet, and then retired, and brought +over the woman and two hogs. The youth now made a still longer speech, +after the conclusion of which this unfortunate woman made the gunner +understand, that when the English fired on her countrymen, her husband +and three of her sons had been killed. Her agitation of mind was such, +that before she had finished her tale, she sunk speechless to the +ground; nor were two lads, who attended her, in a much better situation. +The gunner pitied her distress, and endeavoured to comfort her. At +length she became somewhat calmer, offered him her hand, and directed +the hogs to be given him: in return he would have given her much more +than their value, but she would not take the most trifling article. + +On the 15th a large party, in all the boats, rowed round part of the +island, in order to take a view of it, and purchase provisions. They +returned with a number of hogs and fowls, and some plantains and +cocoa-nuts. The island was found to be every where very pleasant, and to +abound with various necessaries of life. Great numbers of canoes were +seen, and several not quite built. The tools of the natives were formed +of bones, shells, and stones. Dogs and hogs were the only four-footed +beasts. The inhabitants ate all their meat either roasted or baked, +having no vessel in which water could be boiled; nor, indeed, did they +seem to have the least idea that water could be heated by fire; this +will be proved by the following circumstance. While the lady so +frequently mentioned was at breakfast on board the ship, a person that +attended her, having observed the cock of an urn turned to fill the +tea-pot, he also turned the cock, and the scalding water falling on his +hand, he cried out, and danced about the cabin, while the other Indians +gazed at him with terror and surprize. + +On the 17th Captain Wallis received another visit from the lady; (whom +he calls his Queen) and this day plenty of refreshments were purchased +of some Indians, whom they had never dealt with before. The Queen +repeated her visit on the following day, and gave the Captain two hogs: +and the Master being sent to attend her home, she clothed him in the +dress of the country, as she had done the Captain and his retinue. On +the 19th a great number of hogs and pigs, with fowls and fruits in the +greatest abundance, were purchased and sent on board by the gunner. The +next day one of the sailors was sentenced to run the gauntlet three +times round the deck, while the crew whipped him with nettles, for +drawing nails from the ship; but the tars were so well disposed to spare +a brother in iniquity, that his punishment was rather nominal than real: +this gave rise to an order, that no person should go on shore but those +appointed to procure wood and water. + +Captain Wallis’s Queen paid him another visit on the 21st, and presented +him with some hogs. On her departure she invited the Captain to her +house, who, taking some officers with him, attended her home. On their +arrival, she tied round their hats some wreaths of plaited hair, and +distinguished the Captain’s by the additional ornament of a tuft of +feathers of different colours. When they returned she went with them to +the water-side, and ordered some presents into the boat. Just before +they put off Mr. Wallis intimated, that he should finally depart in +seven days; when she made signs that he should stay twenty: but his +resolution to depart within the first-mentioned time being repeated, she +wept incessantly for a considerable time. + +By the 22d the ship was so well stored with hogs and fowls that the deck +was covered; but, as they would eat little else than fruit, they were +killed faster than was otherwise intended. A boar and sow of this breed +were brought to England, and given to Mr. Stephens, secretary of the +admiralty; the former of which was living when this account was printed, +but the latter died in farrowing. + +On the 24th the Captain presented his friend, the old Indian, with cloth +and other matters; and sent a variety of things to the Queen, among +which were a cat with kitten, turkies, geese, hens, and various kinds of +garden seeds; which compliment she returned by a present of fruit and +hogs. While they remained here they sowed peas and garden seeds, and +staid long enough to see them come up, and likely to thrive. + +The Captain having sent a party on shore on the 25th to examine the +country minutely, caused a tent to be erected to observe an eclipse of +the sun, and when it was ended, he took his telescope to the Queen’s +house to shew her the use of it; and her surprize is not to be +expressed, on her beholding several objects which she was very familiar +with, but which were too distant to be seen by the naked eye. On the +conclusion of this mental feast, the Captain invited the Queen and her +attendants on board the ship, judging that no insult would be offered to +the party he had sent out, while the principle people were in his power. +The Queen’s attendants ate heartily of an elegant dinner, and drank +water only; but the Queen would neither eat nor drink. When the party +returned from their excursion, the Captain gave orders for landing the +Queen and her train. She made signs to be informed, if he held his +resolution as to the time of his departure; and being answered in the +affirmative, her tears witnessed the agitation of her mind. + +The following is an account of the transactions and observations of the +party which was sent out this day.--When they first landed they called +on the old Indian, and taking him with them, they walked some on each +side of the river about two miles, observing that the soil was blackish +and rich, and that on the borders of the valley, through which the river +flowed, were many houses with gardens walled in, and plenty of fruit, +hogs, and fowls. They now all walked on one side, as the ground rose +nearly perpendicular on the other. Channels were cut in many places, to +conduct the water from the hills to the gardens and plantations, and the +ground being fenced off had a pleasing effect to the eye. There was good +grass, but no underwood beneath the trees: the cocoa-nut and plantain +grew on level ground; while the bread-fruit and apple-trees were set in +rows on the sides of the hills. + +The stream now became a perfect meander, and the crags of mountains +which rose on its borders hung over the heads of our travellers. After +walking four miles, they sat down to breakfast under an apple-tree, when +they were alarmed by the shouts of a great number of the natives. They +would have had recourse to their arms, but the old Indian making signs +for them to sit still, went to his countrymen, who became at once +silent, and instantly retired: but they soon returned with variety of +refreshments, which the old Indian divided among our travellers; and for +which the Lieutenant gave the natives some buttons, and other trifles. + +They then proceeded, and looked diligently for metals and ores, in every +place likely to produce them; but found nothing of any consequence. The +old Indian growing weary, hinted, that he should return, having first +directed his countrymen to clear a passage for the travellers over a +mountain. When the old man was gone, the Indians cut branches from the +trees, and laid them in a ceremonious manner at the feet of the seamen: +they then painted themselves red with the berries of a tree, and stained +their garments yellow with the bark of another. By the assistance of the +Indians, the most difficult parts of the mountain were climbed; and they +again refreshed themselves on its summit, when they saw other mountains +so much above them, that they seemed as in a valley. + +Towards the sea the prospect was inexpressibly beautiful, the sides of +the hills being covered with trees, and the vallies with grass; while +the whole country was interspersed with villages. They saw but few +houses on the mountains above them, but as smoke was observed in many +places, it was conjectured, that the highest parts were inhabited. Many +springs gushed from the sides of the mountains, all of which were +covered with wood on the sides, and with fern on the summits. The soil +even on the high lands was rich, and the sugar-cane grew without +cultivation; as did likewise ginger and turmerick. + + [Illustration: _The Queen of Otaheite taking leave of Cap^n. Wallis._] + +Having a third time refreshed themselves, they descended towards the +ship, occasionally deviating from the direct way, tempted, by the +pleasant situation of several houses, the inhabitants of which +entertained them in the most hospitable manner. They saw parrots, +parroquets, green doves, and ducks. The Lieutenant planted the stones of +cherries, peaches and plums, several kinds of garden-seeds, and oranges, +lemons and limes. In the afternoon they rested on a delightful spot, +where the inhabitants dressed them two hogs and several fowls. Here they +staid till the evening, when they rewarded the diligence of their +guides, and repaired to the ship. + +On the 26th the Queen visited the Captain, with her usual presents; and +on this day they discontinued taking in wood and water, and prepared for +sailing. A greater number of Indians now came to the sea-shore than they +had ever yet seen; and of these, several appeared to be persons of +consequence. In the afternoon the Queen visited captain Wallis, and +sollicited him to remain ten days longer; but being informed that he +should certainly sail on the following day, she burst into tears. She +now demanded when he would come again, and was told in 50 days. She +remained on board till evening, when being informed that the boat waited +for her, she wept with more violence than she had yet done. At length +this affectionate creature went over the ship’s side, as did the old +Indian who had been so serviceable to the crew. This man had signified, +that his son should sail with the Captain; but when the time of +departure came, the youth was not to be found; and it was thought, that +parental affection had got the better of the old man’s promise. + +Early the next morning two boats were sent to fill a few casks of water; +but the officer, alarmed at finding the shore crouded with people, was +about to return. This brought the Queen forward, who commanded the +Indians to retire to the opposite side of the river, and then made signs +for the boats to land. While the water was filling, she ordered some +presents into the boat, and entreated to go once more to the ship; but +the officer having it in charge not to bring off a single native, she +ordered her double canoe out, and was followed by many others. When she +had been on board, weeping bitterly, for an hour, advantage was taken of +a breeze, and the ship got under sail. She now tenderly embraced the +Captain and Officers, and left the ship; but the wind falling, the +canoes all put back, and once more reached the ship, to which the +Queen’s being made fast, she advanced to the bow of the canoe, and wept +incessantly. The Captain presented her with several articles of use and +ornament, which she received in silent sorrow. After some time a breeze +springing up, the Queen and her attendants took their final leave, with +many tears, which drew corresponding tears from the eyes of our +countrymen. + +The place where the ship had lain was called PORT ROYAL HARBOUR, and is +situated in 17 degrees 30 minutes south-longitude, and 150 degrees +west-latitude. + +Captain Wallis now proceeds to give a more accurate account of the +inhabitants of Otaheite, with their customs, manners, &c.--The men are +from five feet seven to ten inches high, well proportioned, alert, and +of good countenances. The women from five feet to five and a half, +handsome in general, but some of them as beautiful as can be imagined. +The complexion of those men who are much on the water is rather red; but +the natural colour of them all is the tawny. They are remarkably +distinguished from all the other natives of Asia, Africa, and America, +by the colours of their hair; for that of the former is universally +black, while the people of Otaheite have the various colours of black, +brown, red and flaxen; most of the children having the latter: when left +loose, it has a strong natural curl, but it is usually worn tied in two +bunches, one on each side the head, or in a single bunch in the middle. +They anoint the head with the oil of the cocoa-nut, mixed with a root of +a fragrant smell. + +It has been mentioned, that the ladies do not consider chastity as a +virtue; but the price of their favours is always proportioned to their +charms. When a man offered a girl to the caresses of a sailor, he shewed +a stick of the size of the nail that was to purchase her company. + +Their cloaths are formed of two pieces of cloth, not unlike coarse China +paper, in one of which a hole is made for the head to pass thro’, and +this hangs to the middle of the leg; the other piece is wrapped round +the body, and the whole forms an elegant drapery. This cloth is composed +of the inner bark of a tree. They adorn themselves with pearls, shells, +feathers and flowers. They mark the hinder part of the thighs and loins +of both sexes with black lines in different forms; which is done by +striking the teeth of an instrument through the skin, and rubbing soot +mixed with oil into the holes: some few men, who appeared to be persons +of distinction, had their legs marked; but neither boys nor girls are +marked till after they are twelve years old. + +An Indian who attended the Queen appearing to be fond of imitating the +English, was presented with a suit of the Lieutenant’s cloaths, which +became him extremely well. As it was shoal-water at the landing-place, +the English officers were carried on shore; and this man, unwilling to +be out of the fashion, was carried in the same manner by the Indians. In +his attempt to use a knife and fork at first, his hand always went to +his mouth, while the food remained stuck on the end of the fork. + +Besides the articles already mentioned, these people eat the flesh of +dogs. Rats abound on the island, but are not eaten. The river produces +parrot-fish, groopers, cray-fish and mullet, and conchs and muscles are +found on the rocks: the inhabitants use nets, and hooks and lines. + +There is something singular in their way of dressing their food: having +produced a fire by rubbing two pieces of dry wood together, they dig a +pit, which being paved with stones, they make a fire in it. The stones +being properly heated, they rake away the ashes, and covering the stones +with green leaves of the cocoa-nut-tree, they put their meat in plantain +leaves, and place it in the pit, covering it over with the hot ashes, on +which they lay bread-fruit and yams enclosed in plantain leaves: these +again they cover with the embers intermixed with the hot stones: to this +succeeds a layer of cocoa-nut leaves, and upon the whole is a covering +of earth. In this manner a small hog is dressed whole, but a large one +is cut in two; and Captain Wallis asserts, that this method of cookery +exceeds every other he has known, the meat being extremely tender, and +full of gravy. Their only sauces are salt-water and fruit, and their +knives are made of shells. + +They were astonished when they first saw meat boiled in a pot; but the +Captain having given iron-pots to the Queen and some of her chiefs, they +were often used; and the old Indian fed on boiled meat almost +constantly. The only liquor they drink is water: they occasionally pluck +and chew a bit of the sugar-cane; but have no idea of extracting any +spirit from it. + +From the scars with which many of these people were marked, it seems +evident, that they sometimes waged war with each other.--That they have +skill in surgery is evident from the following circumstance: a splinter +having got into the foot of one of the sailors, his mess-mate tried in +vain to extract it with a pen-knife: on this one of the natives, having +formed an instrument, with his teeth, out of a shell, extracted the +splinter in an instant; and the old Indian applying a piece of the gum +of the apple-tree to the wound, the man’s foot was quite well in two +days. + +There are several sheds on the island, enclosed within a wall, on the +outside of which several posts are fixed in the ground, on which are +rude resemblances of men, women, dogs and hogs. The enclosed place is +paved with large stones, between which the grass grows. These were +supposed to be burial-places, from the natives being sometimes seen to +enter them with an air of solemn sorrow.--It could not be discovered +that these people had any kind of religious worship among them. + +They have three kinds of canoes--one formed out of a single tree, in +which they go a fishing; a second, made of planks sewed together, and +large enough to hold 20 or 30 men; in which they sail round the island, +and come laden home with fruits; and a third sort, which are not unlike +the Venetian gondolas, and used when they sail on parties of pleasure. +In these they make a kind of procession two or three times in a week, +with their streamers flying, attended by the small canoes, while +hundreds of the natives accompany their motions on the shore. On these +occasions they put on their best cloaths, and while some are under a +large awning, others sit upon it:--these are clothed in red and white; +two men in red sit on the prow of each vessel; while the rowers and +steersmen are in white. + +The people of Otaheite use bows and arrows, which last are headed with a +round stone. They have likewise bludgeons, and slings for the throwing +of stones. + +The inhabitants being shewn some small turtles, hinted that they had +some which were much larger; but not one was seen by any of the ship’s +crew. + +Captain Wallis represents this island as one of the most pleasant in the +universe; being blessed with a pure air, abounding in wood and herbage, +harbouring no venomous animal; and its inhabitants being happy in a +constant flow of health. The south-east part of the island, which +produces fruit in vast abundance, is better peopled than the spot near +where the ship lay. + +When captain Cook, in the Endeavour, visited this island, he found the +venereal disease among the natives; which must have been contracted from +some of the crew under the command of M. Bougainville; for not one of +captain Wallis’s men were infected with that disorder for several months +before and after his arrival at Otaheite. + +The Dolphin sailed from this harbour on the 27th of July 1767, and +passed the Duke of York’s Island, the coast of which abounds with +plantain-trees, cocoa-nut, bread-fruit, and apple-trees. On the 28th +they discovered land, which was called SIR CHARLES SAUNDER’S ISLAND. It +had a few inhabitants, who lived in small huts; and the cocoa-nut and +other trees grew on the shore. On the 30th they again made land, which +received the name of LORD HOWE’S ISLAND, on which smoke was seen, but no +inhabitants. Their next discovery was of some dangerous shoals, to which +captain Wallis gave the name of the SCILLY ISLANDS. + +They now steered westward till the 13th of August, when they saw two +small islands, one of which was named KEPPEL’S ISLE, and the other +BOSCAWEN’S ISLAND; on the latter of which were several inhabitants; but +they steered for the former, as its appearance promised the most +convenient anchorage. By the help of glasses they now discovered the +natives on the shore; but they did not attempt to anchor that night, on +account of some breakers at a considerable distance from the island. + +The boats being dispatched to the island, brought on board some +cocoa-nuts and other fruit, and a couple of fowls. The officer reported, +that the inhabitants were not unlike those of Otaheite; that some few of +them ventured into the boat, but soon jumped out and swam back to the +island. These people were remarkable for having the first joint of their +little fingers cut off; and they were dressed in a sort of matting. + +As there was no convenient watering-place at this island, and as the +ship had received some damages that had rendered her unfit to encounter +a rough sea, the Captain determined to sail for Tinian, from thence to +Batavia, and so to England by the Cape of Good Hope. He therefore passed +the island, which is well inhabited, abounds in timber, and is of a +circular form. + +On the 16th they again discovered land, to which the officers gave the +name of WALLIS’S ISLAND. The coast of this island is very rocky, and the +trees grow almost to the edge of the water. The inhabitants wore no +covering but a mat round the waist: each man had a very large club, two +of which were purchased by the boat’s crew. These people attempting to +steal the cutter, by hauling her upon the rocks, a gun was fired close +to one of their faces, the report of which so terrified them, that they +decamped with the utmost speed. When the boats were returning to the +ship, they were impeded by the points of rocks, which being observed by +the Indians, they followed in their canoes till they got into deep +water, and then they rowed back. + +Captain Wallis remarks, as an extraordinary circumstance, that although +no sort of metal was seen on any of the lately discovered islands, yet +the natives were no sooner possessed of a piece of iron than they began +to sharpen it, but did not treat copper or brass in the same manner. + +They now sailed to the north-west, and on the 28th observed a number of +birds flying about the ship, one of which they catched. It was +web-footed, but in all other respects resembled a dove. On the 3d of +September they saw land, which was thought to be two of the Piscadore +Islands; and on this day an Indian Proa (a description of which is given +in Anson’s Voyage) made towards the ship, on which they hoisted Spanish +Colours; but she came no nearer than within about two miles. On the 7th +and 9th they saw several birds, one of which was taken, and judged to be +a land-bird. On the 18th they discovered the island of Saypan, and soon +afterwards that of Tinian, off which they anchored on the day following. + +No time was lost in sending the boats on shore, and they returned in a +few hours, with oranges, limes, and cocoa-nuts. Tents were erected for +the sick, who were sent on shore with all expedition. The smith’s forge, +and carpenter’s chest were also landed; and the Captain and first +Lieutenant, who both continued ill, went on shore, with a party of men +to hunt for cattle. A young bull of great weight was soon catched; and +they found plenty of oranges, limes, and bread-fruit. On the 21st they +began the necessary repairs of the ship. The fatigue sustained by those +who went to hunt for cattle was so great, by going many miles thro’ +thickets, that one party was ordered to relieve another; and the second +Lieutenant with several of the men, being sent to reside on the north +part of the island, where cattle were most plentiful, a boat was sent +daily to bring in what they catched. In this island they procured beef, +pork, poultry, papaw-apples, and all the other refreshments, of which an +account is given in Anson’s Voyage. + +By the 15th of October the fruit and water was carried on board, and all +the sick being recovered, preparations were made for sailing; and on the +next day they left the bay, and sailed to the west. + +On the 21st and 22d they saw several gannets, and other birds; and on +the 23d and two following days it blew a violent storm, the effects of +which were the more dreaded, as the ship admitted more water than she +had done at any time during the voyage. The bad weather continued on the +26th, when they saw several land-birds. They had now to encounter the +united horrors of thunder, lightning, rain, darkness, and such a violent +sea, as broke even the iron work on the gun-whale, and washed over-board +many heavy things. On the 27th they were blest with a sight of the sun, +and the day following the weather became more temperate. In the middle +of the night one Morgan, a taylor, was suddenly missed, and it was +thought he fell over-board in a fit of intoxication. + +On the 3d of November they discovered three islands, which were named +SANDY ISLE, SMALL KEY, and LONG ISLAND; and on the day following they +saw another, to which captain Wallis gave the name of NEW ISLAND; all of +which islands are in ten degrees odd minutes north-latitude, and 247 +degrees odd minutes west-longitude. The ship held her course till the +8th, on which day the log and journal-books of the voyage were taken +from the inferior officers and foremast-men. + +They now altered their course, and on the 13th saw the islands of +Timoun, Aros and Pesang. On the 16th they crossed the equinoctial line, +and came again into south-latitude. The next day they saw the islands of +Pulo Toté, and Pulo Weste; soon after which they had sight of the seven +islands. A singular incident happened in the succeeding night, which was +very tempestuous, and so dark, that they could not see across the ship. +During the full violence of the wind, a flash of lightning afforded them +light enough to see a ship of considerable size, which was so near, that +it was with difficulty they steered clear of her; but they could not get +information to what nation she belonged, as the wind was too loud for +them to hear each other. This was the first ship they had seen since +they parted from the Swallow. In the morning they saw the Island of Pulo +Taya, near which they came to an anchor in the evening; and the next +morning sailed again, and saw two ships a-head of them, but the current +was so strong that they lost ground, and therefore they again anchored +in the evening. The next day they lost an anchor, the cable of which was +cut away by the rocks. On the 22d they saw the coast of Sumatra, and +came to an anchor in the road of Batavia, on the 30th of November 1767. + +On the following day captain Wallis saluted the Dutch governor with 13 +guns, and the compliment was returned from the fort with one additional +gun. Permission having been obtained to purchase necessaries, they were +soon supplied with beef and vegetables. The crew were now threatened +with punishment, if any attempt should be made to bring liquor aboard; +and no man was permitted to leave the ship, but those who were called by +duty; and even those were not suffered to go into the town.--The +intemperate use of arrack is highly pernicious to strangers who visit +Batavia. + +His Majesty’s ship the Falmouth was at this time laying in the road, but +in so shattered a condition, that it was thought she could not hold +together during the next monsoon; nor were the few of her crew which +remained alive in any better condition than the vessel. On the 5th of +December captain Wallis received a petition from the warrant officers of +the Falmouth, setting forth, that their powder had been thrown into the +sea, by order of the Dutch, and that the gunner was dead; that their +misfortunes had deprived the boatswain of his senses, and that he was +then a lunatic in the Dutch hospital; that his stores were all spoiled; +that the cook had been wounded, and remained a cripple; and that the +carpenter was near death.--They therefore petitioned that the Captain +would carry them to England, or, at all adventures; dismiss them from +the ship, as there was now nothing left for them to take charge of. +Captain Wallis was obliged to refuse their request, however reasonable, +and informed them, that as they had taken charge of stores, they must +wait for orders from England. To this they answered, that they had not +received a single order since they were left in the road of Batavia: +that they had ten years pay due, and would rather go home sweepers, than +remain in their present wretched situation. That they were never +permitted to sleep on shore, and when sick, no person had the humanity +to visit them: that the Malays frequently robbed them, and that they +expected destruction at the hands of those people, as they had burnt the +Siam Prize not long before the arrival of the Dolphin. They entreated +the Captain to make their case known in England, which he readily +promised to do. + +On the 5th the Captain went on shore, to buy such stores as he thought +necessary to carry the ship home with safety. He visited the different +store-houses and arsenals; but the demands of the Dutch were so +exorbitant, that he determined to make shift with such materials as he +had, rather than be imposed on by people who wished to take every +advantage of his necessity. Accordingly, he sailed on the 8th of +December, without losing a single man, and having only two on the sick +list. + +On the 11th the crew began to be afflicted with colds and fluxes; and +the following night they saw the Coast of Java, on which was placed an +amazing number of lights, intended, as they imagined, to entice the fish +near the beach.--They anchored off Princes Island on the 14th, and began +to take in wood and water; at which place they remained till the 20th, +during which time they purchased turtle, poultry, and other +refreshments. + +While they lay here one of the seamen fell from the main-yard into the +barge, which was a-longside the ship, and struck down two other men, one +of whom was bruised so much that he died in four days; but the other +escaped with a broken toe: the man who fell had several bones broken, +and was otherwise shockingly bruised. They buried three men here, and +many others were seized with fluxes, and putrid fevers; the contagion of +which last disorder constantly attacked, in a day or two, those who +attended the sick. At this time too the ship made above three feet water +in four hours. + +They struggled with these accumulated misfortunes till the 10th of +January, when the sickness began to abate.--On the 24th they encountered +a dreadful storm, which tore the sails to pieces, broke a rudder-chain, +and carried several of the booms over-board: yet, during this storm, +they observed a number of birds and butterflies.--On the 30th they saw +land, and came to an anchor in Table Bay, at the Cape of Good Hope, on +the 4th of February. + +Captain Wallis having saluted the Governor, and the Commanders of some +vessels in the harbour, and they having fired guns of salute in return, +he lost no time in procuring fresh meat and vegetables for the use of +the crew. The surgeon was sent on shore to hire lodgings for the sick; +but as the rate demanded was very high, and as the small-pox (which many +of the seamen had not had) raged prodigiously, the Captain obtained the +Governor’s permission to erect tents on a plain about two miles from the +town. + +This being done, the sick were sent on shore; positive orders being +given that no liquor should be brought to the tents; that no one should +be permitted to go into the town; and that extra provisions should be +procured for those who were most reduced by sickness. The Captain was so +very ill, that, as long as the ship lay here, he was at a country-house +several miles distant. + +Every man who was able to do any kind of work, was now employed in the +necessary repairs of the ship, which being nearly compleated by the 10th +of February, several of the men, who had had the small-pox, were +permitted to visit the town; and those who had not had that distemper, +were allowed to take daily walks in the country; and as they did not +abuse this liberty, it was continued to them as long as the ship +remained there. + +The necessaries which could not be purchased of the Dutch at Batavia, +were bought reasonably at this place; and fresh water was procured by +distillation, with a view to convince the commanders of the Indiamen +that lay here, how easily wholesome water might be procured at sea. This +method of distillation is as follows: 56 gallons of salt water being put +into the still at five in the morning, thirty-six gallons of fresh water +was obtained by about a quarter after ten; thirteen gallons and a half +remaining in the still. This fresh water was procured at the expence of +sixty-nine pounds of coals, and nine pounds of wood. + +On the 25th all hands were ordered on board, when it was found that +every man, except three, was able to do duty. A number of sheep were +purchased for sea stores; and the ship sailed on the third of March. + +On the 17th they anchored in the bay of St. Helena, and sent persons on +shore to get water, and others to gather purslain, of which there is +great plenty. The Captain going on shore, was saluted by the guns of the +fort; and requested to make that place his residence during his stay on +the island: but their water-casks being soon filled, and the wind +serving the next day, they then sailed for England. + +On the 28th they crossed the equinoctial line, getting once more into +north-latitude. On the 24th they saw the Cape of Pico.--On the 11th of +May they had sight of the Savage sloop of war, captain Hammond, in chace +of a sloop, at which he fired several guns. On this captain Wallis +fired, and brought the vessel to, which proved to be laden with brandy, +tea, &c. from Roscoe in France; she was of Liverpool, and was commanded +by Robert Christian. Captain Wallis detained her, in order to her being +sent to England; as she was judged to be a smuggler, pretending to be +bound to Bergen, in Norway, tho’ she was sailing to the south-west. + +No material incident happened from this time to the end of the voyage, +which was happily compleated by the Dolphin coming to an anchor in the +Downs on the 20th of May 1768. + + + + + CAPTAIN CARTERET’S + VOYAGE + ROUND THE WORLD, + In 1766, 1767, 1768 and 1769. + + +Mr. Carteret having already circumnavigated the globe with Commodore +Byron, was appointed to the command of the Swallow sloop, soon after his +return to England; and, on the 22d of August 1766, sailed from Plymouth, +in company with his Majesty’s ship the Dolphin, and the Prince Frederick +store-ship. + +Nothing material happened till the morning of the 9th of September, +(when the ship lay in the road of Madeira) at which time nine prime +seamen left the vessel privately, and swam on shore naked, having only +their money tied in handkerchiefs round their bodies. While Captain +Carteret was writing to the Consul to assist him in the recovery of +these brave, but imprudent fellows, he received a message, that they had +been found naked on the shore. A boat was instantly dispatched to bring +them on board, where they cut a most ridiculous figure, and seemed +heartily ashamed of what they had done: it appeared, however, that they +had ran this risk only to get a skinful of liquor (as they said) knowing +they were bound on a long voyage, and it being uncertain who might live +or die. Captain Carteret endeared himself very much to the crew by +pardoning these men, whose future services amply repaid this well-timed +lenity. + +It will be needless to recite any particulars which happened till the +11th of April, when the Swallow parted company with the Dolphin and +Prince Frederick, as already related in the account of Captain Wallis’s +Voyage. At nine o’clock on this day the Swallow had totally lost sight +of the Dolphin, which Captain Carteret judged to be then clear of the +mouth of the Streights; and as the Swallow was then under land, where +she had not the advantage of any considerable breeze, they entertained +no hope of seeing their consort during the remainder of the voyage. + +At this time all the cloth, linen, cutlery wares and trinkets were on +board the Dolphin; a circumstance which aggravated Captain Carteret’s +distress, as he had not any thing proper to barter with the Indians; yet +he encouraged the crew not to despair; and was happy to find that they +were in high spirits for the voyage. + +A few hours after the ships parted company, the Swallow encountered a +violent storm, during which there was so thick a fog, that they could +not see mountainous land which they were within half a mile of. At this +time the boat was out in search of an anchoring-place; and when night +came on, it was so dark, that they could not see half the length of the +ship: they therefore hoisted lights, and fired a gun every half hour; +and at length the boat reached the ship in safety. The next morning the +boat was again sent in search of a place to anchor in, and in the +afternoon, when the Captain despaired of her returning in time, he saw +her sounding a bay, and instantly making towards her, came to anchor in +safety. + +The Captain now retired to rest, but he was disturbed in a few minutes +by the shouting of the crew upon the deck, and the noise of those below +running to join them. His fears brought him instantly on the deck, where +he heard the universal cry of the Dolphin! the Dolphin! but this +flattering appearance soon vanished, and proved to be only water forced +up, and whirled in the air by a gust of wind from the mountains. Mr. +Carteret says, that as the current sets continually into the harbour +where they lay, he has no doubt but it has another communication with +the sea to the south of Deseada. The borders of the bay abound with +muscles and wild geese, and afford plenty of wood and water. + +They sailed from this place early in the morning of the 15th of April, +and soon afterwards, by the sudden shifting of the wind, they +encountered so violent a storm, that they were in danger of sinking; yet +they did not dare to take in any sails, for fear of running foul of some +rocky islands, which in Narborough’s Voyage are called the Islands of +Direction; nor could they go back into the Streight, without the danger +of running foul of a lee-shore; yet, notwithstanding their best +endeavours, the ship made hastily towards this lee-shore. Thus +circumstanced, they were compelled to stave the water-casks on and +between the decks, that she might carry better sail; and by this +expedient they at length escaped the threatened destruction. They now +got into the open sea, after a very providential deliverance, for, had +the wind again shifted, the ship must have been unavoidably lost. + +They now steered a northward course along the Coast of Chili; but as the +water on board was deemed insufficient for the length of the voyage, the +Captain proposed touching at the Island of Juan Fernandes, or Masafuero, +to take in a proper quantity. On the 18th the wind, which had hitherto +been favourable for their sailing northward, and consequently getting +into a more temperate climate, suddenly shifted, and continued contrary +till the 18th of April, blowing violently all the time, accompanied at +intervals with dreadful thunder, lightning, rain and hail. + +During this time they saw abundance of sea-birds, among which were two +sorts, one like a pigeon, which the seamen called the Cape of Good Hope +Hen; and the other Mother Carey’s Chickens; but the true name of these +latter is the Peterel. + +From the 27th of this month till the 1st of May they had continual +storms; and on this day a prodigious sea laid the whole ship under water +for some time, while the wind blew a hurricane, and the rain poured down +in torrents. The wind now shifted, so that the head of the vessel came +right against a mountainous sea, which repeatedly broke over the +forecastle as far as the main-mast, so that it was almost a miracle that +she was not sunk. + +When the weather became something more moderate, they repaired in some +degree the damage the ship had sustained during the storm; but they had +much bad weather afterwards till the 9th of May, when they were in sight +of the Island of Masafuero: and on the 10th they saw Juan Fernandes, and +sailed round to Cumberland Bay, on the east-side of it. + +The Spaniards having fortified this island (a circumstance till then +unknown to Captain Carteret) a number of men were seen on the shore, and +two large boats lying on the beach. A house and four pieces of cannon +were observed near the sea side, and on the brow of a hill, at a small +distance, was a fort with Spanish colours flying on it. Many cattle were +seen on the hills, and above 20 houses on different parts of the island. +The wind blew so strong out of the bay, that it was impossible to get +very near it: they therefore sailed westward, and were followed by one +of the Spanish boats; but she soon returned, on observing that the wind +kept them out of the harbour. On the eastern side of the west bay they +saw a kind of guard-house, with two pieces of cannon, on carriages, near +it. They now returned towards Cumberland Bay, when the boat again put +after them; but night coming on, they lost sight of her. As Captain +Carteret had only English colours on board, he did not hoist any during +all this time. + +Thus disappointed of the refreshments they so very much wanted, they +sailed for Masafuero, where they anchored on the 12th, but were unable +to land, as the beach was full of rocks, and the surf ran so violently, +that the best swimmers could not get through the breakers: the next +morning, however, the boats landed, and filled some water-casks. + +On the 15th they anchored on the east-side of the island; but were +driven from their moorings, and kept out at sea all night. In the +morning the cutter was sent for water, and the ship got near the shore, +where she soon received several casks, and sent the cutter back for +more. The long-boat was likewise dispatched on this service, as well as +to carry provisions to those on shore. In the afternoon the boats being +observed running along the shore, the ship followed and took them in, +but not without their sustaining so much damage by the violence of the +sea, that the carpenters were obliged to work all night in repairing +them. + +On the 17th the cutter was again sent for water; and, when she returned, +the Lieutenant reported, that the violent rains which had fallen in the +night, had brought down such a deluge of water, that the people on shore +narrowly escaped drowning, after losing several of the casks. Mr. Gower, +the Lieutenant, having seen many rivulets of water produced by the rain +which had fallen in the night, proposed to go and fill the casks; but he +had not been long gone, before the weather began to wear a very +threatening appearance, and it thundered and lightned to a degree beyond +description. The ship now kept as near the shore as possible, and as it +was grown quite dark, they were very apprehensive that the long-boat was +lost, but she happily came a-longside just in time to prevent the +destruction of her whole crew; for she had scarce been hoisted over the +ship’s side a moment, before such a violent squall came on, as must +inevitably have sunk her. Mr. Gower reported, that three of the sailors +having swam on shore with the casks, just before the storm began, he was +under a necessity, however unwilling, of leaving them behind, exposed, +naked as they were, to thunder, lightning, rain and hunger. + +These men returned to the ship, on the evening of the 19th, and gave an +account how they had passed the melancholy interval.--While day-light +continued they hoped for an opportunity of regaining the boat; but when +the darkness and cold of the night advanced, they began to consider how +they should abide the inclemency of the weather; when necessity +suggested an expedient that ingenuity might have sought in vain:--they +laid, alternately, each between the two other, thus procuring at once +the partial comforts of a house and a fire. As soon as the day broke +they proceeded by the sea-shore towards the tent: but being repeatedly +impeded by high points of land, they swam round them, at such a +distance, to avoid the rocks, that they were scarcely in less danger +from the sharks: happily, however, they escaped every danger, and were +received at the watering-place with a degree of pleasure that does +honour to the humanity of their brother tars; part of whose cloths and +provisions were instantly appropriated to feed the hungry and clothe the +naked. When these men returned on board, they were indulged with a whole +night’s rest, and the next morning were perfectly well. The reader will +no doubt be pleased to be informed, that these were three of the nine +men who swam ashore at Madeira, for a skinful of liquor. + +This day such a quantity of fish was taken by the boat, with hooks and +lines only, as was equal to the consumption of the whole crew. On the +20th the ship, which had been some time standing off and on near the +shore, came again to an anchor, when the long-boat being sent out, +procured, in a short time, an ample supply of fish. During the night, +and all the following day, they had extreme bad weather; but, as soon as +it became moderately calm, three seamen were sent on shore to kill +seals, and make oil of their fat, for the use of the lamps. + +On the 22d in the morning (after a stormy night) the boats being sent on +shore, returned with a number of pintado birds, which were obtained from +the inhabitants, who said that, when the wind blew briskly in the night, +these birds flew into the fire in amazing numbers; so that they catched +several hundreds the preceding night. On the 23d as much water was got +off as the weather would permit of, but several casks were lost by the +violence of the surf. The weather now grew so bad that the Captain was +impatient to sail: he therefore gave orders for all the people on shore +to come on board. At this time the ship drove from her moorings, +dragging the anchor after her, till she got into deep water. They now +lay to under bare poles, waiting for the boats, while the violence of +the wind carried the water higher than the mast-head. In the evening the +long-boat with ten of the men were taken on board; but there yet +remained the cutter, with the Lieutenant and eighteen men. The weather +becoming more moderate about midnight, the ship stood in for land, and +at ten the next morning was near the shore, but the cutter was not to be +seen; about noon however she was discovered close under land, and in +three hours time her crew got on board. These people endeavoured to come +off in the evening, but had no sooner left the shore than their cutter +was almost filled with water, and narrowly escaped sinking: at length +she regained the shore, where she remained all night: in the morning it +was concluded, that the ship had perished in the storm, and the crew, +having taken proper methods to secure the boat, proposed to wait till +the summer, when they hoped she might be able to carry them to the +Island of Juan Fernandes:--but these thoughts were now lost in the joy +of their happy deliverance. + +The island of Masafuero is of a triangular form, about 22 miles in +circumference, and, at a distance, has the appearance of a single rock; +there is good anchorage on many parts of the coast, and the island +abounds with goats. Wood and water are plenty, but difficult to be +procured, on account of the violence of the surf. Cod, hallibut, +coal-fish, and cray-fish are to be catched in great numbers; and seals +are so numerous, that Captain Carteret thinks, the killing of thousands +could make no apparent difference in their numbers. The mountain cabbage +grows on the island, which likewise abounds in birds, among which are +hawks of a very large size. + +Captain Carteret having left the Island of Masafuero, sailed to the +north, with the hope of getting the south-east trade-wind; and, having +got more to the north than he first proposed, he looked out for the +Islands of St. Ambrose and St. Felix, which he missed through the +erroneous printed accounts of their latitudes and longitudes. They +likewise searched for the continent, which in the charts is called +Davis’s Land; but which Mr. Carteret gives many reasons for supposing +has no existence. + +This search was continued till the 17th of June, which is the depth of +winter, when the weather was dark and cold, with sleet, rain, thunder +and lightning. The gloom was so constant, that they had seldom sun-shine +enough to make an observation, yet were necessitated to carry all the +sail possible, that they might not perish with hunger before the ship +should reach some port, where they might procure a supply of +necessaries. + +On the 2d of July they discovered an island, which was well clothed with +trees, and down the side of which ran a stream of fresh water. It +appeared to be about five miles in circumference, and was called +PITCAIRN’S ISLAND, from the name of a young gentleman who first saw it. + +On the 4th the ship admitted a great quantity of water, and was +otherwise in a very shattered condition, from the rough seas she had +encountered. The crew now likewise began to be much afflicted with the +scurvy; though they were, happily, well supplied with water, an +abundance of the rain-water being catched by means of an awning lined +with painted canvas. + +On the 11th Captain Carteret gave the name of the BISHOP OF OSNABURGH’S +ISLAND, to a low piece of land discovered this day, which was well +cloathed with verdure. On the 12th they saw two other small islands, on +one of which the boat’s crew landed, and found birds so tame, as to be +taken without the least difficulty. The other island was about 15 miles +distance; but neither of them afforded either water or vegetables. They +were called the DUKE OF GLOUCESTER’S ISLANDS; and Captain Carteret +supposes them to be the same land which was seen by Quiros. + +From this period till the 22d of the month they had alternate storms and +calms; and on this day judged themselves five thousand four hundred +miles from the continent of America; yet in all this run they had seen +no signs of a southern continent. + +As the scurvy was now daily encreasing among the seamen; and as the +weather was bad, and the ship in a crazy condition, the Captain +determined to steer such a course as might most probably tend to the +preservation of the vessel and the crew. In consequence of this +resolution he stood to the northward, in the hope of having the +advantage of the trade-wind, and reaching some island, where he might be +furnished with the necessary refreshments. + +On the 25th they saw great flocks of birds, which induced them to think +that they were near land, but they could not discover any. On the 3d of +August great numbers of sea-birds were seen; and on this day the current +was observed to set strongly to the southward, though it had hitherto +ran in a contrary direction; whence the Captain concluded, that the +passage between New Zealand and New Holland opened in this latitude, +which was ten degrees eighteen minutes south, and the longitude 177 +degrees 30 minutes east. + +On the 10th of this month the ship sprung a leak, in a part which they +could not come at to repair; so that their situation was truly alarming; +but two days afterwards they discovered land, which gave fresh spirits +to the almost desponding crew. The Captain observed seven islands, and +sailed towards two of them, which lay very near together: in the evening +they came to an anchor near the largest of them, on which were seen two +of the natives, who were negroes, with woolly heads, and wore no kind of +clothing. + +A boat being sent on shore, an account was brought back that there was +fine fresh water opposite where the ship lay, but that it would be +difficult to procure it, as the whole country was covered with thick +wood quite to the sea shore. This circumstance, added to the danger +there might be of the natives attacking them from the woods, determined +the Captain to look for a more convenient anchoring-place.--On the day +following, therefore, the cutter, with the master and a party of seamen, +was sent to the westward, to search for a place to procure wood and +water, to seek for refreshments for the sick, and to discover a place +where the ship might be repaired. He received orders to be strictly on +his guard against any attack from the natives, and took with him a few +trinkets that happened to be on board, to procure their good will. The +longboat being likewise sent off, she soon returned laden with water: +she was dispatched a second time, but the people on board the ship +observing some of the natives advancing to the landing-place, a signal +was made for her to return. + +Soon after this three of the Indians sat down on the shore, looking +stedfastly at the ship for several hours. The Lieutenant was now sent +towards them; but, when they saw the boat approaching, they moved along +the coast, where they were soon met by three others. When they had +conferred together, the former went on, while the latter advanced +hastily towards the boat. This being observed from the ship, a signal +was made for the boat’s crew to act with caution. The Lieutenant now +proceeded to the shore, and offered his presents to the Indians, who, +regardless of his trinkets, discharged their arrows, and immediately ran +off; though the boat’s crew received no injury, they fired at the +natives; but these, likewise, escaped unhurt. + +In a short time after this the cutter came on board; the Master, who +commanded her, having three arrows sticking in his body. The account he +gave of his expedition was, in substance, as follows. Being arrived at a +place about fifteen miles from the ship, he saw some houses, but only a +very few of the natives, and landed with four of the crew well armed: +the first fears of the Indians being dispelled, they accepted his +presents with pleasure, and, in return, gave him some fish, yams, and +cocoa-nuts. He then went to the houses; but soon observing a number of +the natives among the trees, and several canoes coming round a point, he +hastened towards the boat; but before he could embark, a general attack +with bows and arrows was made, as well on those in the boat, as on those +on shore. Thus situated, the crew fired repeatedly, killing and wounding +many of the Indians: still however the latter continued the fight, some +of them running into the water as high as the breast; and when the boat +got farther off she was pursued by the canoes, which did not retreat +till one of them was sunk, and many of the people in the others were +killed. + +Some of the crew gave an account of this transaction less favourable to +the Master than his own: they said, that the Indians behaved in the most +friendly manner, till he exasperated them by cutting down a cocoa-nut +tree, after they had strongly intimated their wishes that he would not +destroy it. The instant the tree fell they all left the spot but one +man, but they were soon observed to assemble in great numbers among the +trees; on which a Midshipman entreated the Master to go on board; but he +slighted the advice, nor even retired till the attack was commenced. The +Master and three of the seamen died of the wounds received from the +arrows of the Indians. + +The Captain now determined to attempt the reparation of the ship in her +present situation; and succeeded so far that the leak was greatly +reduced. On the 14th the wind setting full into the bay, the ship was +driven near the shore, and many of the Indians were observed in the +woods, as if in expectation of her running a-ground. + +On the 15th a party was sent on shore to get water, a shot having been +previously fired into the woods, to disperse any of the natives that +might be lurking in them. The Lieutenant was likewise dispatched in the +cutter to keep the coast clear for the waterers, by repeated firings +into the woods; yet, in spite of these precautions, a flight of arrows +was soon discharged among them, by which one of the seamen was +dangerously wounded. The crew now incessantly fired to that part of the +wood from whence the arrows came; but the Captain made a signal for the +boats to come off; and as soon as he had taken them on board, fired +several canon into the woods; on which a great number of the natives +left their retreat, and ran away along the shore. + +In a short time another large party was observed on a point of the bay, +at whom a ball being fired, it fell in the midst of, and dispersed them. +The people now took in water with safety; but a constant firing was kept +up, both from the ship, and from a party on shore; and it appeared that +our countrymen had been dreadfully successful, for repeated groans, as +of dying men, were heard from several places in the woods. + +As the Master was now dying of the wounds he had received by the arrows; +as the Captain and Lieutenant were so ill that their recovery was +doubtful; and as there was no chance of procuring proper refreshments at +this place, all intentions of pursuing the voyage farther to the +southward were laid aside: the Captain, therefore, having named the +place EGMONT ISLAND, and the harbour where the ship had lain SWALLOW +BAY, sailed from it on the 17th of August 1767. + +On the same day an island was discovered, which received the name of +PORTLAND’S ISLAND, four miles from which they saw an harbour, which was +called BYRON’S HARBOUR. Having sailed three leagues from the harbour, +they had sight of the bay where the Indians had attacked the crew of the +cutter. This was called BLOODY BAY; on its borders were a number of +houses well constructed, and one much longer than the others, which had +the appearance of a kind of hall for the transaction of public business. +In this place, which was well built, and covered with a kind of thatch, +the Master and his party had been received by the natives, before the +wanton cutting down of the cocoa-nut tree. A large number of arrows were +hung in bundles round the room, the floor and sides of which were +covered with matting. In this neighbourhood were many gardens, +surrounded by stone walls, and planted with vegetables. Three miles from +this village a large town was seen, in the front of which, towards the +sea, was an angular kind of fortification, built of stone, and near five +feet high. + +About three miles from hence they saw a bay, into which a river empties +itself, which they called GRANVILLE’S RIVER, and it appeared to be +navigable for small vessels far up the country. The point of this bay +was called FERRERS’S POINT; and from hence the land forms a large bay, +near which is a considerable town, inhabited by an incredible number of +people, who, while the ship was sailing by, came out of their houses, +holding something like a bundle of grass in their hands, with which they +appeared to stroke each other, running in rings, or dancing, all the +while. + +Sailing onwards a few miles they saw another point, which was called +CARTERET POINT, on which was a large canoe, with an awning over it; at a +small distance was another town, fortified as that before-mentioned. The +inhabitants of this place likewise advanced before their houses, and +danced as the others had done. The dance being ended, many of them came +off in canoes towards the ship: but having got near enough to have a +good view of her, they would advance no farther. + +They soon saw another small island, which was named TREVANION’S ISLAND, +and the north part of it was called CAPE TREVANION. Both the main land +and this island abounded with inhabitants; and a boat being sent to +sound the passage, they no sooner observed that she had left the ship, +than several canoes advanced to attack her. The Indians having let fly +their arrows, the boat’s crew fired, and killed one man, and wounded +another. A gun laden with grape shot was at the same time fired from the +ship, on which all the canoes pulled hard for the shore, except the one +with the wounded man in it, which being taken to the ship, the surgeon +was ordered to examine his wounds. One of this poor fellow’s arms was +broke, and a shot had gone through his head; and the Surgeon being of +opinion that the latter wound was mortal, he was placed in his canoe +again, and with one hand rowed towards the shore. His canoe was formed +only of the hollow trunk of a tree: he was a young fellow, almost as +black as the negroes of Guinea; his features were good, his hair woolly, +and he went quite naked.--It may be fairly asked here, if it would not +have been an act of humanity to have attempted the cure of this +unfortunate youth, if it had been only by a single dressing, before he +had been dismissed. + +As they sailed along the shore they saw plantains, bananas, and +cocoa-nut trees, and observed great numbers of hogs and poultry: but the +Captain being yet very ill, and having not officers sufficient to direct +the men in the common business of the ship, he had no opportunity of +establishing a friendly traffick with the Indians; and was unable to +obtain by force those refreshments which the crew became every hour more +and more in want of. + +Thus situated; unable to proceed farther to the south, and in danger of +being too late for the monsoon, he gave immediate orders to proceed +northwards, in hope of discovering the country, which Dampier has +distinguished by the name of _Nova Britannia_. + +To all the islands they had now left, Captain Carteret gave the general +name of QUEEN CHARLOTTE’S ISLANDS; and, besides those already mentioned, +he saw several, which he named as follows, viz. LORD HOW’S ISLAND; +KEPPEL’S ISLAND; LORD EDGCOMBE’S ISLAND; OURRY’S ISLAND; and VOLCANO +ISLAND; this last being so denominated from a smoke that issued from its +top, which is of an amazing height, and shaped like a sugar loaf. + +The canoes of the inhabitants are formed of the trunk of a tree +hollowed, are large enough to contain ten or twelve people, and are +furnished with out-riggers, but have no sails. + +The people of Egmont Island are very expert at swimming and diving; and +active and vigorous in a high degree. Their arrows are so sharp, and +discharged with such strength, that one of them wounded a man in the +thigh, after passing through the wash-board of the boat. The points of +these arrows are flint, and no metal was seen among the natives. There +are good harbours on the coasts of these islands, which likewise abound +in rivers, and have some vallies, but for the most part they are +mountainous, and covered with trees. + +Captain Carteret sailed on the 18th of August, and holding a +west-north-west course, he on the 20th discovered a small island, which +was called GOWER’S ISLAND, the people of which did not differ in any +thing material from those of the islands he had lately left. Some +cocoa-nuts were here procured in exchange for nails; and the inhabitants +had intimated, that they would furnish a farther supply the next morning +but it was then found, that the current had carried the ship +considerably to the south during the night, and brought them within +sight of two other islands, one of which was called SIMPSON’S ISLAND, +and the other CARTERET’S ISLAND. + +As both these islands were to windward of the ship, they sailed again to +Gower’s Island, which abounds with fine trees, many of which are the +cocoa-nut. A boat being sent on shore, the Indians attempted to seize +her; and in return the crew made prize of a canoe, in which was a number +of cocoa-nuts. The arms of the natives were spears, bows and arrows. + +As a strong current set to the southward, they now steered a +north-westerly course, because the bad condition of the ship, and +sickness of the crew, would have rendered it impossible for them ever to +have got to sea again, if they had been driven into any gulph or deep +bay. On the 22d one of the marines fell overboard, and was drowned, +notwithstanding every effort was used to save him. + +The ship fell in with nine islands in the night of the 24th, which +Captain Carteret supposes to be the same that were discovered by Tasman, +and are named Ohang Java: eight of these are very small, but the other +is more extensive, and they are all inhabited by blacks, whose heads are +woolly, like those on the coast of Africa. The next day they had sight +of an island covered with verdure, which was called SIR CHARLES HARDY’S +ISLAND, and from the number of fires that were seen on it, they supposed +it to be inhabited. This day they likewise had sight of a large island, +formed of three high hills, which took the name of WINCHELSEA’S ISLAND. +On the 26th they saw a large island to the north, which Captain Carteret +imagines to have been the island of St. John, that was discovered by +Schouten. + +This day they were within sight of Nova Britannia, and the next morning +the current drove the ship into a deep bay, which, in Dampier’s Voyages, +is called St. George’s Bay. On the 28th they gave the name of WALLIS’S +ISLAND to a small island in a bay, off which they came to an anchor, and +were now 7500 miles due west from the main land of America. The cutter +was sent out to catch fish; but not succeeding, she returned with a +considerable number of cocoa-nuts. + +On the next day, after great fatigue, they weighed the anchor, and +sailed to a place which they called ENGLISH COVE, where they immediately +began to take in wood and water. They now attempted to catch fish with +hooks and lines, but none of them would bite; nor were they much more +successful with their nets: turtle likewise were very plentiful, yet +they could not take any of them; but at low water they picked up some +large cockles and rock oysters. From the shore they procured cocoa-nuts, +and the cabbage of the cocoa-tree, which is crisp and juicy; this, when +eaten raw, tastes like a chestnut; but, when boiled, has a more +agreeable flavour than the parsnip. It was found to be excellent when +boiled with portable soup and oatmeal. They likewise gathered some +plumbs, which tasted like those of the West Indies, which are called +Jamaica plumbs; and by this supply of vegetables, they had soon reason +to rejoice in the blessing of returning health. + +This island seemed to have been lately inhabited, as several wretched +huts were seen, in which were the remains of fires, and the shells of +fish, which did not appear to have been long catched: they had likewise +a sight of two animals, which were supposed to be dogs. This place +produces palm-trees of various kinds; aloes, canes, bamboos, rattans, +beetle-nut, and the nutmeg-tree; with a variety of other trees, and many +shrubs and plants of which the names were not known. In the woods was a +large black-bird, whose note was not unlike the barking of a dog: there +were likewise parrots, rooks, pigeons and doves: they also saw +centipieds, serpents and scorpions. + +Having taken in wood and water, and repaired the ship in the best manner +they were able, the Captain took possession of the country, with all the +neighbouring islands, for the King of Great Britain. This was done by +nailing on a lofty tree a piece of board faced with lead, on which was +engraved the name of the vessel, and of the Captain, the time of +entering and leaving the harbour, and a representation of the union flag +of England. + +They left this cove on the 7th of September, and anchored on the same +day almost close to a grove of cocoa-nut trees, where they supplied +themselves with the fruit and the cabbage in very great abundance; and +called the place CARTERET’S HARBOUR, which being formed by the main and +two islands, one of them was named LEIGH’S ISLAND, and the other +COCOA-NUT ISLAND. + +Nothing now remained but to attempt the reaching Batavia while the +monsoon continued favourable: on the 9th of September, therefore, the +anchor was weighed, and when they were about four leagues from land, the +wind and current being both against them, they steered round the coast +into a channel between two islands, which channel was divided by another +island, to which Captain Carteret gave the name of the DUKE OF YORK’S +ISLAND, and near which are several smaller islands. To the south of the +largest island are three hills of singular form, which were called the +MOTHER AND DAUGHTERS, one of which was supposed to be a volcano, from +the large clouds of smoke that were seen issuing from it. A point they +called CAPE PALLISER, lies to the east of these hills, and CAPE STEPHENS +to the west; north of which last lies an island, which took the name of +the ISLE OF MAN. The country in general is mountainous and woody, and +was supposed to be inhabited, from the number of fires seen on it in the +night. On the Duke of York’s Island the houses are situated among groves +of the cocoa-nut tree, and form the most enchanting prospect. + +Having brought to for the night, they sailed again in the morning, when +some of the Indians put off in canoes towards the ship; but the wind +being fair and blowing fresh, it was not thought prudent to wait for +them. Steering north-west by west, they lost sight of New Britain on the +11th, and it being now found, that what had been taken for a bay was a +streight, it was called ST. GEORGE’S CHANNEL, and the island on the +north of it received the name of NEW IRELAND. In the evening they +discovered a large island, well clothed with verdure, which was +denominated SANDWICH ISLAND, off this island the ship lay great part of +the night, during which time a perpetual noise was heard, resembling the +sound of a drum. When they had almost cleared the Streight, the weather +falling calm, a number of canoes approached the ship, and, though they +could not be prevailed on to go on board, they exchanged some little +matters with the crew, receiving nails and bits of iron, which they +preferred to every thing else that was offered them. Though the canoes +of these people were formed out of single trees, they were between 80 +and 100 feet in length. The natives are negroes, and their hair is of +the woolly kind, but they have neither thick lips nor flat noses. They +wore shell-work on their legs and arms, but were otherwise naked, except +that their hair and beards were powdered with white powder, and a +feather was stuck into the head above the ear. Their arms consisted of a +long stick and a spear; and it was observed, that they had fishing-nets +and cordage. + +They now sailed west, and coming in sight of the south-west point of the +island, it was called CAPE BYRON; near which is an island of +considerable extent, which received the name of NEW HANOVER. The +Streight they had now passed was called BYRON’S STREIGHT, one of the +largest islands they had seen, BYRON’S ISLAND; and the south west point +of New Hanover, QUEEN CHARLOTTE’S FORELAND. On the following day they +saw several small islands, which received the name of the DUKE OF +PORTLAND’S ISLANDS. + +When they had compleatly navigated St. George’s Channel, the whole +length of which is about one hundred leagues; they sailed a westward +course, and on the 14th of September discovered several islands. The +next morning some hundreds of the natives came off in canoes towards the +ship, and were invited on board by every token of friendship and good +will; notwithstanding which, when they came within reach, they threw +several lances at the seamen on the deck. A great gun and several +muskets were now fired at them, by which some were killed or wounded; on +which they rowed towards the shore; and after they had got to a +distance, a shot was fired so as to fall beyond them, to convince them +that they were not out of the reach of the guns. + +In a short time other canoes advanced hastily from a distant part of the +island; and one of them coming nearer than the rest, the people in it +were invited on board the ship; but instead of complying with the +invitation, they threw in a number of darts and lances. This assault was +returned by the firing of several muskets, whereby one of the Indians +was killed; on which his companions jumped overboard, and swam to the +other canoes, all of which rowed to the shore. This canoe being taken on +board, was found to contain a turtle, some other fish, and a fruit +between the apple and plumb, of a species hitherto unknown to Europeans. +These people were almost negroes, with woolly hair, which they powdered; +and they went naked, except the ornaments of shells round their arms and +legs. + +Captain Carteret now coasted along the islands, to which he gave the +general name of the ADMIRALTY ISLANDS. He describes them as having a +most enchanting appearance, being covered with woods, groves of +cocoa-nut trees, and the houses of the natives. The largest of these +islands is computed to be above 50 miles in length; and he supposes that +they produce many valuable articles, particularly spices. + +They discovered two small verdant islands on the 19th, which were called +DUROUR’S ISLAND, and MATTY’S ISLAND, the inhabitants of which last ran +along the coast with lights during the night. They had sight of two +other small islands on the 24th, which were called STEPHENS’S ISLANDS, +and which abounded with beautiful trees. + +On the evening of the 25th they had sight of three islands, the natives +of which came off in canoes, and went on board the ship. They bartered +cocoa-nuts for some bits of iron, with which metal they did not seem +unacquainted, and appeared extravagantly fond of it. They called it +_parram_, and intimated, that a ship sometimes touched at their islands. +These people were of the copper colour, and had fine black hair; but +their beards were very small, as they were continually plucking the hair +from their faces. Their teeth were even and white, and their +countenances agreeable; their activity was such, that they ran to the +mast-head even quicker than the seamen. They ate and drank any thing +that was given them; and had not the least degree of reserve in their +behaviour. Their dress consisted only of a piece of fine matting round +the waist.--As the current carried the ship at a great rate, the Captain +had no opportunity of landing, though the Indians offered, that some of +their people should remain on board, as a security for the safe return +of such of the seamen as might be sent on shore. One of the Indians, on +finding that none of the crew were to land, absolutely refused to leave +the ship, and was therefore carried to the island of Celebes, where he +died. This man was named Joseph Freewill, and the largest of the islands +was called FREEWILL ISLAND; but the natives called it Pegan; and the +names of the other two are Onata and Onello. + +On the evening of the 28th they discovered an island from the mast-head; +but they neither visited nor gave name to it. On the 12th of October +they got sight of a small island, which was named CURRENT ISLAND, from +the great strength of the southerly current; and on the following day +they discovered two more small islands, which were called ST. ANDREW’S +ISLANDS. + +On the 26th they had sight of land, which, on the day following, they +knew to be the Island of Mindanao, and coasted the south-east part of +it, in search of a bay described in Dampier’s Voyages; but they could +not find it. A boat being sent out, found a little nook at the southern +extremity of the island, near which was a town and a fort. The boat +being seen from the shore, a gun was fired, and some canoes came out +after it; on which the Lieutenant retreated towards the ship, and, when +the canoes came in sight of her, they retired in their turn. + +They now sailed eastward, and, on the 2d of November, anchored in a bay +near the shore, whither the boats immediately went, and took in water; +they saw no signs of that part of the island being inhabited, but a +canoe being observed to come round a point of the bay, as if to watch +their motions, the Captain hoisted English colours, in the hope of +tempting her crew on board; but they only took a survey of the ship, and +rowed off. + +In the night a loud noise was heard from the shore, very much like the +war-whoop of the savages of America; which, inducing Captain Carteret to +think that the intentions of the islanders were hostile, he ordered up +his guns from the hold, and made all preparations to repress force with +force. The next morning one of the boats was sent on shore for water, +while the other was held in readiness to assist in case of danger. As +soon as the crew had landed, many armed men advanced from the woods, one +of whom holding up something white, the Captain, who had no white flag +on board, sent the Lieutenant on shore, with orders to display a +table-cloth as a signal of peace. This being done, two Indians came down +to the Lieutenant, one of whom addressed him first in Dutch, and then in +Spanish, in which latter tongue he was with difficulty understood. His +enquiries were, if the ship was a Dutch vessel; what number of men and +guns she carried; if she had been to Batavia, or was bound thither; and +whether she was designed for war or trade. + +These questions being answered, he said they might go to the town, and +he would introduce them to the Governor. The Lieutenant now desired that +some armed Indians might retreat, and that the seamen might be permitted +to fill water; which was readily granted. This being done, the +Lieutenant presented the Indian with a silk handkerchief, and received a +coarse neckcloth in return. The boats soon returned to the ship, with a +good supply of water; and Captain Carteret was congratulating himself on +the prospect which these amicable appearances promised, when he observed +some hundreds of Indians, armed with targets, hangers, broadswords, +pikes, bows, arrows and muskets, range themselves opposite the +ship:--they brandished their swords, and held up their targets, in token +of defiance, at the same time discharging their lances and arrows +towards the ship. + +Captain Carteret, still resolved to avoid coming to extremities if it +were possible, and sent the Lieutenant again on shore, to display the +table-cloth, as an ensign of peace. The natives seeing that the boat had +reached the shore, yet that no person landed, one of them advanced, and +beckoned them to come to the spot near where he stood; which the +Lieutenant declined doing, as he would then have been within reach of +their arrows. + +The Captain having formed a resolution of visiting the town, sailed from +hence the next morning, after having called the place DECEITFUL BAY: but +the wind soon blowing violently in shore, he altered his resolution, and +steered for Batavia. + +The south of Mindanao is a fine country, interspersed with woods, lawns +and plantations; and abounds with inhabitants, as do likewise its +neighbouring islands. Captain Carteret was of opinion, that there were +Dutchmen in the town, or persons in the Dutch interest, who, finding the +Swallow to be an English vessel, had irritated the inhabitants against +the crew. + +On the 14th of November, 1767, they reached the Streight of Macassar, +situate between the islands of Borneo and Celebes, to a point of which +latter island they gave the name of HUMMOCK POINT; to the westward of +which a number of boats were seen fishing on the shoals. They were in +sight of two very small islands on the 21st, which are well clothed with +verdure, and deemed by Captain Carteret to be the same that are called +Taba Islands in the French charts. + +On the 27th they crossed the equinoctial line, and got into southern +latitude, at which time they found the current setting against them, and +the tornadoes became violent. The crew was now diminishing by death, and +weakened daily by sickness; so that there were hardly hands sufficient +to navigate the vessel. On the 3d of December they had sight of the +islands called the Little Pater-nosters, which lie something more than +two degrees south of the line; but it was out of their power to land any +where for refreshment, as the winds and currents were against them. Not +a man on board was now free from the scurvy and when it was imagined +that nothing could have aggravated their distress, they were attacked by +a pirate in the middle of the night of the 10th of December. It was so +very dark that they could not see their enemy, who attacked them with +swivel guns and small arms but they returned the salute so warmly, that +the pirate was sunk, and all her crew perished, after having wounded two +persons on board the Swallow, and done some very trifling damage to the +ship. The pirate had been seen in the dusk of the evening; and Captain +Carteret afterwards heard that she belonged to a Freebooter, who had +upwards of thirty vessels engaged in the dangerous business of piracy. + +By the 12th of this month they had lost thirteen of the crew; and the +death of thirty others was hourly dreaded. At this time too the westerly +monsoon was set in, so that it was impossible to reach Batavia; and as +they must speedily make some land, or inevitably perish, it was resolved +to attempt the getting to Macassar, a Dutch settlement on the island of +Celebes. On the 13th they saw several trees floating, and birds sitting +on them: and two days afterwards they came to an anchor, at little more +than a league from Macassar. + +Late that night the Governor sent a Dutchman on board the Swallow, who +was greatly alarmed to find that she was an English man of war, no such +vessel having ever anchored there before; and so apprehensive of danger +was the Dutchman, that he would not venture to enter the cabin. Very +early the next day the Captain sent a letter to the Governor, requesting +permission to buy provisions, and asking shelter for the ship, till the +proper season returned for sailing to the westward. When the boat +arrived at the wharf, not one of her crew was permitted to land; and on +the Lieutenant’s refusing to deliver the letter, except to the Governor +himself, the Shebander and the Fiscal (two officers of the town) came to +him, and said that the Governor was sick, and that they came for the +letter by his command. Though this sickness was believed to be mere +pretence, the Lieutenant at length delivered the letter, which they took +with them. When the boat’s crew had waited several hours in the burning +heat of the sun, and without the least refreshment, the Lieutenant was +informed, that the Governor had given orders to two gentlemen to wait on +Captain Carteret, with an answer to his letter. While the boat lay off +the wharf, it was observed that there was a great hurry on shore, all +hands being engaged in fitting out such vessels as were proper for war. + +Soon after the boat came back, Mess. Le Cerf and Douglas brought a +letter, intimating, that “the ship should instantly depart from the +port, without coming any nearer to the town; that she should not anchor +on any part of the coast, and that the Captain should not permit any of +his people to land on any place that was under the Governor’s +jurisdiction.” + +As the most forcible answer to this letter, the Captain shewed his dying +men to the gentlemen, and again pleaded the urgent necessity of the +case. They could not but see and feel the propriety of granting +refreshments and shelter to persons in such a situation; but still, they +said, their orders were absolute, and must be obeyed. Provoked at this +treatment, the Captain declared he would anchor close to the town; and +if they then refused him necessaries, that he would run the ship +a-ground, and himself and his crew would sell their lives as dearly as +possible. Alarmed at this declaration, they begged the Captain to remain +in his present station, till the Governor should give further orders; +and this he promised, provided that he had an answer before the sea +breeze set in on the day following. + +Early in the morning a sloop of war, and another vessel, with many +soldiers on board, came and anchored under the ship’s bows. The Captain +sent to speak with them, but they would not answer a single question: +and as the sea-breeze set in at noon, he then sailed towards the town, +the other vessels weighing anchor, and keeping even pace with him. + +A vessel now approached from the town, in which were several gentlemen, +among whom was the Mr. Douglas above-mentioned; but none of them would +go on board till the Swallow had dropped her anchor. On their expressing +some surprize that the Swallow had sailed from her former station, +Captain Carteret told them, that he had only acted agreeable to his +declaration to them the preceding day, in which he was fully justified +by his present situation. These gentlemen brought with them two sheep, +some fowls, fruit, and other provisions, which were highly acceptable. + +After they had made several propositions, which Captain Carteret could +not but reject, he again declared his resolution of putting his threats +in execution, and to convince them that he was in earnest, shewed them +the body of a man who had expired within a few hours; but who would +probably have been then alive, if the refreshments had been brought in +time. They now enquired if the ship had touched at the Spice Islands; +and being answered in the negative, it was at length agreed, that she +should sail to a bay at a small distance, where an hospital might be +built for the sick, and where provisions were plenty, and that if any +thing farther was wanted, it should be sent from Macassar. + +This proposal was readily embraced, on the condition that the Governor +and Council should ratify it, which they afterwards did. The Captain now +enquiring why the two vessels had anchored under the ship’s bows, was +told, that it was only to protect her from any outrages on the part of +the natives of the country. Mr. Carteret had nothing to treat his guests +with, but bad salt meat and rotten bread: but, during their treaty, a +very elegant dinner having been dressed in the gentlemen’s vessel, it +was served up on board the ship; after which they parted good friends. + +An officer from the town coming on board the next day, the Captain +applied to him to procure money for his bills on the English government. +This he promised to attempt, and went on shore for that purpose, but, +returning in the evening, brought word, that there was not a person in +the town, who wanted to remit any money to Europe; and that the +Company’s chest was totally drained: but this difficulty was at length +surmounted, by an order to the Resident at Bonthain, who had money to +remit to Europe, to take the Captain’s bills for any thing he should +want. + +On the day following Mons. Le Cerf, who was an Ensign, brought a pilot +on board, to carry the ship round to Bonthain; and Le Cerf had the +command of some soldiers, who were on board two guard-boats that +attended the ship: and he was likewise to act as a check on the +Resident. + +All things being thus settled, they sailed early on the 20th of +December, 1767, and anchored in the road of Bonthain on the following +day. The guard-boats were now moored close to the shore, to prevent all +communication between the ship’s boats and those of the country. Captain +Carteret having attended the Resident, to settle the price and mode of +procuring provisions, a house was appropriated to his use, situated near +a small fort. This being fitted up as an hospital, the sick were landed +and placed under a guard, which was commanded by M. Le Cerf, who would +not permit them to go above thirty yards from the hospital, nor the +natives to traffic with the seamen; so that the profits of traffic fell +into the hands of the Dutch soldiers, whose gains were immoderate; so +great, indeed, that some of them sold at a profit of more than a +thousand per cent. after having extorted the provisions from the natives +at what price they pleased. Captain Carteret having remonstrated with +the Resident on the injustice of this procedure, he spoke to the +soldiers on the subject; but this produced no good effect; and it was +known that, after this, Le Cerf’s wife sold provisions at more than +double the prime cost, while it was suspected that he sold arrack to the +seamen. + +On the 26th and 27th three vessels arrived, one of which had troops on +board, destined for the Banda Islands; but their boats not being allowed +to go on board the ship, the Captain prevailed on the Resident to +purchase, for his use, four casks of salt provisions. Above one hundred +sail of proas arrived at Bonthain Bay on the 28th.--These vessels, which +fish round the island, carry Dutch colours, and send the produce of +their labours to China for sale. + +On the 18th of January a letter from Macassar informed Captain Carteret, +that the Dolphin, his old consort, had arrived at Batavia. Ten days +after this the Secretary, who had been sent with Le Cerf, had orders to +return to Macassar; on the 19th of February, Le Cerf himself was +recalled; and on the 7th of March the largest of the guard-boats was +likewise ordered back. On the 9th the Resident received a letter from +the Governor of Macassar, enquiring when Captain Carteret would sail for +Batavia, though he must know it could not be before the eastern monsoon +set in, which would not be till May. All these were suspicious +circumstances; and toward the end of the month it was observed, that a +canoe frequently paddled round the ship several times in the night, and +retired as soon as she was seen. + +While every one was speculating on these matters, the Captain received a +letter, informing him that a design was formed for his destruction; that +the Dutch were at the bottom of this affair; but that the ostensible +person was to be the son of the King of Bony, who was on terms of +friendship with the Dutch, as they had often assisted him in attempts to +reduce the inhabitants of the other parts of the island of Celebes, and +had been as often repulsed. The pretended grounds for this proceeding +were, that the English might form connections with these unsubdued +natives of the island. + +Whether the information contained in this letter was true or false, +Captain Carteret put his ship in the best posture of defence possible. +He even suspected that the Resident was privy to the horrid scheme; but +he had afterwards reason to be convinced to the contrary: though it +appeared that one of the Princes subject to the King of Bony, and a +minister of that monarch, had been privately at Bonthain; but of eight +hundred men, who were said to be there, no traces could be found. + +On the 7th of May the Captain received, through the hands of the +Resident, a letter from the Governor of Macassar, denying his having any +knowledge of the above-mentioned project, and requiring that the writer +of the letter might be given up; but this requisition was not complied +with, as the Captain knew he would be equally punished, whether his +information was or was not true. + +At this place they purchased plenty of fresh provisions at moderate +prices; and, among the rest, beef of an excellent quality. The bullocks +of this place are those that have the bunch on the back; and it likewise +abounds in buffaloes, horses, sheep, deer, and goats. The natives +neither eat pork nor turtle; but they sold the latter, as well as other +fish, to Captain Carteret. + +Having taken in wood and water, they sailed hence on the 22d of May, +and, steering along the shore, came to an anchor the same evening, +between the islands of Celebes and Tonikaky. They sailed again in the +morning, and at night saw the southernmost of the islands of Salombo. On +the 26th they saw the island of Luback; and on the 29th a number of +small islands called Carimon-Java. + +On the 2d of June they had sight of the land of Java, and on the +following day came to an anchor in the road of Batavia, after having +with difficulty prevented the ship from sinking, by the constant working +of the pumps, during her whole passage from Celebes. Having fired guns +of salutation, the Captain attended the Governor, requesting permission +to repair the defects of the ship; but he was directed to petition the +Council. + +The Council met on the Monday following, when the Captain sent a letter, +stating the defects of the ship, and requesting permission to repair +her. The time from this day till the 18th of the month was lost in +altercations respecting the affair at Bonthain Bay; the Governor and +Council insisting, that Captain Carteret should sign a formal +declaration, that he believed the report of an intention formed at +Celebes, for cutting off the ship, was false and malicious; and the +Captain on his part resolutely persisting in his refusal to sign any +such paper. + +On the 18th the Captain learnt that orders had been given for repairing +the ship at Onrust, whither a pilot attended her, and where she came to +an anchor on the 22d of June; but as the wharfs were pre-engaged by +other ships, the repairs did not commence till the 24th of July. On +examination, the vessel was found in so very rotten and decayed a +condition, that the Dutch carpenter would not undertake her repair, +without shifting her whole bottom, till the Captain had certified under +his hand, that what should be done was in consequence of his own express +direction. This the Dutchman thought necessary, lest the ship should +never reach England, and the blame consequently rest with him. + +During Captain Carteret’s stay at this port, he frequently visited M. +Houting, an Admiral in the service of the Dutch, a gentleman remarkable +for his politeness and affability, from whom the Captain received +several distinguishing marks of kindness.--The Governor of Batavia lives +with the state of a sovereign Prince. When he goes publicly abroad he is +escorted by horse-guards, and has two black footmen who run before his +coach. When any other coach meets that of the Governor, it is drawn on +one side, and the persons in it get out to pay their respects; nor, if a +coach is behind, must it be driven by the Governor’s, whatever necessity +may require its greater speed. The like homage is paid to the members of +the Council, only that the person does not quit his carriage, but +salutes them standing in it; one black man, with a stick in his hand, +runs before the coach of a member of the Council, and thinks himself at +liberty to punish those who do not make a proper obedience. + +It was hinted to Captain Carteret, by the landlord of the hotel where he +lodged, that his carriage must stop, if he should meet the Governor’s, +or those of the Council; but the Captain disdaining to pay a degree of +homage to the servants of the States of Holland, which is not paid to +the King of Great Britain, refused to comply; and when the black men +were mentioned, he said he knew how to defend himself, and pointed to +his pistols. In a few hours afterwards he was told, from the Governor, +that he might act as he pleased. + +Captain Carteret having engaged some English seamen, sailed from Onrust +on the 15th of September, and came to an anchor off Princes Island, in +the Streight of Sunda, on the following day. Having here taken in wood +and water, they sailed on the 25th with a fine gale of wind, which held +them during a passage of 700 leagues; and on the 23d of November they +came to an anchor in Table Bay in the Cape of Good Hope. The Captain +having received numberless civilities from the Governor and other +gentlemen of this place, sailed on the 6th of January, and on the 20th +anchored off the Island of St. Helena, from whence he again sailed on +the 24th. On the 31st of January they anchored in a bay off the Island +of Ascension, where they found an abundance of turtle, many of which +were taken; and the ship sailed again on the following day. + +It had been accustomed to leave on this island (which is uninhabited) a +letter in a bottle, containing an account of the name and destination of +any ship which might touch there; and with this custom Captain Carteret +complied. + +On the 20th of this month a ship which had been seen the preceding day +far to the leeward, but had out-sailed the Swallow in the night, tacked +and stood towards her. A boat was sent on board, in which was a young +officer, who, by many artful questions, endeavoured to learn from +Captain Carteret all the most important particulars of his voyage; and +this piece of ill manners was aggravated, by his inventing a tale to +disguise those of his own voyage; for the vessel he had just left was no +other than that of M. Bougainville, which was then returning from a +voyage round the world. Captain Carteret learnt this circumstance +afterwards from the Lieutenant; for the boat’s crew, which had brought +the French officer on board, had discovered every secret to one of the +English crew who spoke French. Happily, Captain Carteret had kept his +own secret so well, that Monsieur Bougainville was not at all the wiser +for the time he had lost in the negotiation of this illiberal business. +The Frenchman learnt the name of the English ship from the letter left +in the bottle at the island of Ascension. + +Our adventurers had sight of the western islands on the 7th of March +1769, and came to an anchor at Spithead on the 20th of the same month, +without meeting with any accident worth recording. + +Considering the extreme unfitness of the Swallow to perform such a +voyage; the length of time she was in doing it; the amazing dangers she +escaped; and the apparently insurmountable difficulties she went +through; to what can we ascribe her arriving safe in England at last, +but the merciful interposition of a particular providence. + + + + + CAPTAIN + COOK’s + VOYAGE + ROUND THE WORLD. + In 1768, 1769, 1770 and 1771. + + +Mr. Banks, a gentleman of considerable fortune in Lincolnshire, was +induced to undertake this voyage from his natural curiosity, and +invincible desire of attaining knowledge. He had already visited the +banks of Newfoundland and Labradore, and was now happy in having an +opportunity of observing the transit of Venus in the southern part of +America. He accordingly engaged his friend Dr. Solander to accompany him +in this voyage. This gentleman, who was born in Sweden, and educated +under the celebrated Linnæus, had, from his extensive learning, been +appointed to a place been appointed to a place in the British Museum, +and given the greatest satisfaction in that capacity. Mr. Banks also +took with him two draftsmen, one to delineate views and figures; the +other to paint such subjects of natural history as might present +themselves. He had besides a secretary and four servants. + +On the 26th of August, 1768, the Endeavour sailed from Plymouth, and on +the 2d of September they saw land between Cape Finister and Cape +Ortegal, on the coast of Gallicia in Spain. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander +had, during this course, an opportunity of viewing many marine animals, +hitherto unnoticed; among these was a new species of an angular figure, +near three inches in length and one in thickness, having a hollow quite +through it, and a brown spot at one end. Four of these animals were +joined together; but upon being put into water they separated and swam +about. They resembled a gem in brightness, and shone in the water with +fine colours. There was another animal of a more beautiful and lively +colour, which was not unlike an opal. About ten leagues from Cape +Finister, various birds were observed, which had not been described by +Linnæus. + +The islands of Puerto Santo and Madeira were discovered on the 12th, and +the next day they anchored in Fonchial road. In heaving the anchor, Mr. +Weir, the Master’s mate, was carried overboard and drowned. Mr. Banks +found at Madeira a tree, called by the natives _Vigniatico_, the _Laura +indicus_ mentioned by Linnæus. The wood of this tree can scarce be +distinguished from mahogany, which induced this gentleman to believe, +that the wood called in England Madeira mahogany, was the _Laura +indicus_; as no mahogany is exported from this island. The only article +of trade in Madeira is wine, which is made in the following manner; the +grapes are put into a square wooden vessel, the size of which is +proportioned to the quantity; then the persons employed take off their +cloaths, get into the vessel, and with their elbows and feet press out +as much of the juice as they can; in this manner the stalks are then +tied together, and pressed under another square piece of wood, by a +lever and a stone, to extract the remainder of the juice. A whole +vintage is frequently spoiled by the bad grapes being mixed with the +others, which the inhabitants obstinately refuse throwing out, as the +quantity of wine is increased by them. + +There are no wheel-carriages in this island; the only resemblance of +them is a hollow board, that may be called a sledge, and which serves to +carry their wine vessels. The soil is so rich, and there is such a +variety in the climate, between the hills and plains, that there is no +object of luxury which grows either in India or Europe, that might not +probably be cultivated here. Walnuts, chesnuts and apples, flourish +almost without culture upon the hills. The pine-apple, the mango, the +guava and the banana, grow almost spontaneously in the town. The corn is +large grained and fine, and it might be produced in great abundance; +nevertheless, the greatest part of what is consumed is imported. The +beef, mutton, and pork, are likewise remarkably good, particularly the +first, which induced the Captain to take some on board. _Foncho_, which +is fennel in Portuguese, gave name to the town of Fonchial, that lies in +latitude 20 degrees 33 minutes north, and longitude 16 degrees 49 +minutes west. It is seated at the bottom of a bay, poorly built, though +extensive in proportion to the island; the streets are narrow, and very +badly paved. In the churches there are great numbers of ornaments, with +pictures and images of saints; the first are, for the most part, done by +mere daubers, and the latter are cloathed in laced habits. A better +taste prevails in some of the convents, particularly that of the +Franciscans; here simplicity and neatness unite, and give us a very +favourable idea of these good fathers. The infirmary is also a building +that does honour to the architect, and is the most considerable edifice +in the whole place. There are many very high hills; Pico Ruivo is near +5100 feet in height, perpendicularly from its base. These hills are +covered round with vines to a certain height, above which there are +great numbers of chesnut and pine trees, and above them various sorts of +timber, so thick as to form forests. The _Mirmulano_ and _Paobranco_, +which are found amongst them, are unknown in Europe. The latter is very +beautiful, and would be greatly ornamental in our gardens. The +inhabitants are computed to be between 70 and 80,000; and the revenue +arising from the customs is supposed to amount to 20 or 30,000 pound +sterling per annum. Water, wine, fruit and onions, are here in plenty; +sweet-meats are also to be had without any difficulty; but permission +must be obtained from the Governor for poultry and fresh meat. The +Endeavour sailed from Madeira September 19. On the 22d they saw the +Islands of Salvages, northward of the Canaries. The chief of these +islands was about 5 leagues to the south one half west. These islands +appear to lie in latitude 30 degrees 11 minutes north. On the 23d they +saw the Peak of Teneriffe, bearing west by south. This mountain is near +15,400 feet high. On the 29th they saw Bona Vista, one of the Cape de +Verd Islands, lying in latitude 16 degrees north, and longitude 21 +degrees 48 minutes west. From Teneriffe to Bona Vista they observed +flying fish in great numbers, which appeared very beautiful, their sides +resembling burnished silver. Mr. Banks went out in a boat on the 7th of +October, and caught what is called a Portuguese man of war, together +with several marine animals of the _Molusca_ tribe. They had now +variable winds, with some showers of rain; and the dampness of the air +did great injury to their iron utensils. October 19th Mr. Banks shot the +black-toed gull, which has not been described by Linnæus. The dung of +this bird is of a lively red. + +They crossed the line with the usual ceremonies on the 25th of October. + +When the Endeavour was, on the 28th of October, in the latitude of +Ferdinand Noronha, and in longitude 32 degrees 5 minutes west, they +looked out for the island, and the shoals which, according to the +charts, lie between it and the main; but neither the island or the +shoals could be discovered. On the 29th, in the evening, they saw the +luminous appearance of the sea, mentioned by navigators: it emitted rays +of light, resembling those of lightning. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, not +being inclined to adopt any of the opinions that had prevailed with +regard to the causes of this luminous appearance (such as its being +caused by fish darting at its prey, by the putrefaction of fish and +other inhabitants of the sea, and even by electricity) threw out a +casting net, when they were confirmed in their suggestion, that it was +occasioned by some luminous animal. A species of the _medusa_ was +caught, which resembled a metallic substance greatly heated, emitting a +whitish light. Some crabs were brought up at the same time, which, +though exceeding small, gave a very glittering appearance. These animals +had hitherto escaped the observation of all naturalists. + +Provisions beginning to fall short, it was determined to put into Rio de +Janeiro. They saw the coast of Brazil on the 8th of November, and spoke +with the people on board a Portuguese fishing-boat, who informed them, +that the land which they saw was to the south of _Sancto Espirito_. Mr. +Banks bought some fish of the people in the boat, and was much surprised +to find that they refused Spanish silver, and wanted English shillings. + +Their interpreters, who were a Venetian and Portuguese, informed them, +that the crew of the fishing vessel declared, they had not seen a ship +for eight years; this however they supposed to be a mistake, as they +spoke such imperfect English, that it was almost impossible to +understand them. + +On the 13th, in the morning, we made sail for the harbour of Rio de +Janeiro. Mr. Hicks, the first Lieutenant, was sent before in the pinnace +to the city, to inform the Governor, we put in there for refreshments +and water, and to obtain a pilot. The pinnace returned without the +Lieutenant, who was detained by the Viceroy till the Captain came on +shore. When the Endeavour came to an anchor, a ten-oared boat filled +with soldiers came up, and rowed round the ship, without any +conversation taking place. Soon after another boat came up, with several +of the Viceroy’s officers; they enquired whence the Endeavour came; what +her cargo consisted of; her number of men and guns; and her destination. +These and several other questions were justly answered without +equivocation; when they apologized for detaining the Lieutenant, and the +other steps they had taken, pleading its being customary. + +Captain Cook went on shore on the 14th, and obtained leave to purchase +provisions, on condition of employing an inhabitant as a factor: to this +the Captain objected, but in vain, as well as to the sending a soldier +in the boat every time she went from the shore to the ship. Having +requested, that the gentlemen on board might remain on shore whilst they +sojourned, and that Mr. Banks might go up the country to collect plants; +these requests were peremptorily refused. Captain Cook judging the +Viceroy imagined they were come to trade, the Captain endeavoured to +convince him of his mistake, by acquainting him, that they were bound to +the southward, to observe the transit of Venus over the sun; a very +interesting object to the advancement of navigation, of which phenomenon +he appeared to be totally ignorant. An officer was appointed to attend +the Captain; this, which he was told was meant as a compliment, he would +have declined; but the Viceroy was too polite to allow his dispensing +with the honour. + +Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were greatly disappointed upon the Captain’s +return, to find they were not permitted to reside on shore, and go up +the country; and their chagrin was still farther increased, to hear they +were not allowed even to leave the ship; the Viceroy having ordered, +that only the Captain, and such sailors as were necessary to be upon +duty, should be suffered to come on shore; probably its being reported, +that these gentlemen came upon this voyage to make discoveries and +observations, and possessed extraordinary abilities for such business, +might occasion these rigid orders. They attempted, nevertheless, to come +on shore, but were prevented by the guard-boat; though several of the +crew, unknown to the centinel, stole out of the cabin window at +midnight, letting themselves down by a rope into the boat, and driving +away by the tide till they were out of hearing; they then rowed to some +unfrequented part of the shore, where they landed, and made excursions +up the country, though not so far as they could have wished. When the +Captain went on shore to remonstrate with the Viceroy respecting these +restrictions, the only answer that could be obtained was, that he acted +in consequence of his Master’s orders. Thus situated, the Captain +resolved to go no more on shore, rather than be a prisoner in his own +boat, as the officer, who complimented him with his company, waited upon +him both from and to the shore. It was now resolved to draw up two +memorials to the Viceroy; one was written by the Captain, the other by +Mr. Banks: they produced answers no way satisfactory. Captain Cook and +Mr. Banks replied, and several written remonstrances and answers passed +between them and the Viceroy, but to no purpose. The Captain judging it +necessary, in vindication of his compliance, to urge the Viceroy to some +act of force in the execution of his orders, he sent Lieutenant Hicks +with a packet (on the 20th) ordering him not to allow a guard in his +boat. The officer of the guard-boat finding the Lieutenant resolved to +obey the Captain’s command, did not oppose him by force, but +accompanying the Lieutenant on shore, went to the Viceroy, and +acquainted him with what had passed, which induced his Excellency to +refuse opening the packet, commanding the Lieutenant to return. He found +a guard had been put on board his boat in his absence, and insisted upon +the soldiers quitting it. The officer now seized the boat’s crew, and +conducted them to prison, under an escorte; and the Lieutenant was sent +back to the ship under a guard. When Mr. Hicks had acquainted the +Captain with these transactions on shore, the latter wrote to the +Viceroy, demanding his boat and men, and inclosed the memorial, which he +would not receive from the hands of the Lieutenant. The bearer of this +express was a petty officer, in order to avoid continuing the dispute +about a guard, which a commissioned officer must have kept up. Having +delivered his packet, an answer was promised. + +In the interim, in a sudden gust of wind, the long-boat, with four pipes +of rum (by the rope breaking that was thrown her from the ship) went +a-drift windward of her, with a small skift of Mr. Banks’s that was +fastened to her. The misfortune was still greater as the pinnace was on +shore. The yawl was manned immediately, but did not return till next +morning, when she brought all the people on board. From them Captain +Cook learnt, that the long-boat having filled with water, they had +brought her to a grappling, and quitted her, and falling in with a reef +of rocks on their return, they were compelled to cut a-drift the little +boat belonging to Mr. Banks. In this situation the Captain dispatched +another letter to the Viceroy, acquainting him with the accident, at the +same time desiring he would assist them with a boat to recover their +own: this was accompanied with a fresh demand of the pinnace and her +crew. His Excellency at length complied with both the request and +demand; and the same day they fortunately recovered the long-boat and +skift. In the Viceroy’s answer to the Captain’s remonstrance, he +expressed some doubts of the Endeavour being a King’s ship, and accused +the crew of smuggling. Mr. Banks’s servants had, its true, by stratagem, +got on shore (the 22d) early in the morning, and remained till night, +but brought on board only plants and insects. In Mr. Cook’s reply, he +said he was willing to shew his Excellency his commission again, the +Viceroy having already seen it; and that if any attempt to carry on a +contraband trade should be repeated, desired his Excellency would take +the offender into custody. Thus terminated the dispute. + +Mr. Banks (on the 26th in the morning) artfully eluded the vigilance of +the guard, and went on shore: he avoided the town, and passed the day in +the fields, where the chief objects of his curiosity lay. The people +behaved with civility, invited him to their habitations, and he +purchased a young pig for eleven shillings, and some other things. But +the next day it was reported, that search was making for him and Dr. +Solander, which induced them to lay aside all thoughts of going again on +shore. + +Being prepared for sea, with water and provisions, they took on board a +pilot the 1st of December, but the wind being contrary, they were +prevented getting out. The next day a Spanish packet arrived from Buenos +Ayres, for Spain, when the Captain politely offered to take Mr. Cook’s +dispatches to Europe; and he accordingly sent, by that conveyance, all +the papers that had passed between him and the Viceroy, leaving +duplicates with his Excellency for his court. + +The Endeavour did not get under sail till the 7th, when having passed +the Fort the pilot was discharged, and the guard-boat quitted them at +the same time. During the last three or four days of their remaining at +Rio de Janeiro, the air was covered with butterflies, chiefly of one +kind. + +From the observations of the writer of the first account of this voyage, +we have the following description of the town and country. Rio de +Janeiro, is supposed to have been thus named on account of its being +discovered on the festival of saint Januarius. The town, which is the +capital of the dominions of the Portuguese, in America, borrows its name +from the river Januarius. + +It is situated on the west side of the river, from which it extends +itself about three quarters of a mile. The ground on which it stands is +a level plain; it is defended on the north side by a hill that extends +from the river, leaving a small plain, which contains the suburbs and +the King’s dock. On the south side is another hill, running towards the +mountains which are behind the town. Some of its streets run parallel +from north to south, and are intersected by others at right angles. The +principal street is near an hundred feet in width, and extends from St. +Benedict to the foot of Castle-hill; the other streets are commonly +twenty or thirty feet wide. The houses adjoining to the principal street +have three stories, but in other places they are very irregular, though +built after the same manner as in Lisbon. In the town are four convents; +the first is that of the Benedictines, situated near its northern +extremity; this structure affords an agreeable prospect, and contains an +elegant chapel, which is ornamented with several valuable paintings. The +second is that of the Carmelites, which forms the centre angle of the +royal square, and fronts the harbour; its church had fallen some time +before, but it is again rebuilding in a very elegant manner, with fine +free-stone brought thither from Lisbon. The third is that of St. +Anthony, situated on the point of a hill on the south side of the town; +before this convent stands a large bason of brown granite, in the form +of a parallelogram, which is employed in washing. The fourth is situated +at the eastern extremity of the town, and was formerly the Jesuits +convent, but is now converted into a military hospital. + +The Viceroy’s palace forms the right angle of the royal square: the +palace, mint, stables, goal, &c. compose but one large building, which +has two stories, and is ninety feet from the water. In passing through +the palace, the first entrance is to a large hall or guard-room, to +which there is an ascent of three or four steps. In the guard-room are +stationed the body guards who attend the Viceroy, and are relieved every +morning between eight and nine. Adjoining to the hall are the stables, +the prison being in the back part of the building. Within the guard-room +is a flight of stairs for ascending to the upper story; this divides at +a landing-place about half way, and forms two branches, one leading to +the right, and the other to the left. The former enters a saloon, where +there are two officers in constant attendance; the Viceroy’s aid-du-camp +at the same time waiting in an anti-chamber to receive messages and +deliver orders. + +The left wing of the royal square is an irregular building, which +consists chiefly of shops occupied by trading people. In the center of +the square is a fountain supplied with water from a spring at the +distance of three miles, from which it is brought by an aqueduct. From +this fountain both the shipping and inhabitants are supplied with water, +the place being continually crowded with negroes of both sexes waiting +to fill their jars. At every corner of the streets is an altar. The +market-place extends from the north-east end of the square along the +shore; and this situation is very convenient for the fishing-boats, and +those who bring vegetables from the other side of the river to market. +Negroes are almost the only people employed in selling the different +commodities exposed in the market, and they employ their leisure time in +spinning of cotton. + +Without the Jesuits college on the shore is a village called Neustra +Seignora del Gloria, which is joined to the town by a very few +intervening houses. Three or four hundred yards within the Jesuits +convent stands a very high castle, but it is falling to decay. The +bishop’s palace is about three hundred yards behind the Benedictine +convent, and contiguous to it is a magazine of arms, surrounded by a +rampart. + +The gentry here keep their chaises, which are drawn by mules; the ladies +however use a sedan chair, boarded before and behind, with curtains on +each side, which is carried by two negroes, depending from a pole +connected to the top of the chair by two iron rods coming from under its +bottom, one on each side, and resting at the top. The inhabitants +likewise use hammocks or rajas, supported in the same manner, and +surrounded with curtains. + +In this town the apothecaries shops commonly serve the purposes of a +coffee-house, people meeting in them to drink capillaire, and play at +back-gammon. The gentry when seen abroad are well dressed, though at +home they are but loosely covered: the shopkeepers have commonly short +hair, and wear linen jackets with sleeves. Beggars, who infest the +streets of most European cities, are not to be found in this. + +With regard to the women, it is on all hands agreed, that the females of +the Portuguese and Spanish settlements in South America, are less averse +to granting amorous favours, than those of any other civilized part of +the globe. According to Dr. Solander’s account, as soon as the evening +began, females appeared on all sides in every window, and particularized +those of the male sex they liked by giving them nosegays; the Doctor and +two other gentlemen received so many of these bouquets, that they threw +handfuls away. + +The climate of Rio de Janeiro is both agreeable and healthy, being free +from many inconveniencies that are incident to other tropical countries. +The air is but seldom immoderately hot, as the sea breeze constantly +begins to blow about ten o’clock in the morning, and continues until +night, when it is generally succeeded by a land wind, though this does +not always happen. The seasons are divided into rainy and dry; though +their stationary periods have lately become very irregular and +uncertain: indeed the rainy seasons had almost entirely failed the four +years preceding their arrival, at which time the rains had just begun, +and they fell in large quantities during their stay: formerly the +streets have been overflowed by the rain, and rendered impassable except +with canoes. + +The adjacent country is mountainous, and chiefly covered with wood, but +a small part of it appearing to be cultivated. The soil near the town is +loose and sandy, but farther from the river it is a fine black mould. It +produces all the tropical fruits, such as oranges, lemons, limes, +melons, mangoes, cocoa-nuts, &c. in great abundance, and without much +cultivation; a circumstance which is very agreeable to the inhabitants, +who are very indolent. + +The mines, which lie far up in the country, are very rich; but their +situation is concealed, and nobody can view them, except those who work +in them. The experiment is very dangerous, for every one found upon the +road which leads to them is hung upon the next tree, unless he can give +a satisfactory account of the cause of his being in that situation. +About twelve months before their arrival, the government had detected +several jewellers in carrying on an illicit trade for diamonds with the +slaves in the mines; and immediately after a law passed, making it +felony to work at the trade, or have any tools in possession, the civil +officers having indiscriminately seized on all that could be found. Near +forty thousand negroes are annually imported to dig in the mines; these +works are so pernicious to the human frame, and occasion so great a +mortality amongst the poor wretches employed in them, that in the year +1766 twenty thousand more were draughted from the town of Rio, to supply +the deficiency of the former number. + +There are several courts of justice in the town, at all of which the +Viceroy presides; in criminal causes the sentence is regulated by a +majority of voices in the supreme court. The Viceroy has a Council +appointed from Europe by the king, to assist him in his private +department, where he has two voices. + +The inhabitants of Rio de Janeiro maintain a whale-fishery, which +supplies them with lamp-oil. They import their brandy from the Azores, +their slaves and East India goods from their settlements in Africa, +their wine from Madeira, and their European goods from Lisbon. + +The current coin is Portuguese, which is struck here; the silver pieces +are called Petacks, of different value; and the copper are five and ten +ree pieces. + +Rio de Janeiro is very useful for ships that are in want of refreshment; +the harbour is safe and commodious, and may be distinguished by a +remarkable hill, in the shape of a cone, at the west point of the bay. +The entrance is not wide, but it is easy, from the sea breeze, which +prevails from noon to sun-set, for any ship to enter before the wind. +The entrance of the narrow part is defended by two forts, La Cruz and +Lozia; they are about three quarters of a mile from each other. The +bottom being rocky, renders it dangerous to anchor here, but this may be +avoided by keeping the middle of the channel. The whole coast abounds +with a very great variety of fish, among which are dolphins and mackrel. + +On the 9th of December they took out of the sea an incredible number of +atoms, of a yellowish colour, few of them more than the 50th part of an +inch in length; it could not even with a microscope be determined +whether they were animal or vegetable substances. These atoms tinged the +sea in such a manner, as to cover it with broad streaks of a colour +similar to themselves, the greatest part of a mile in length, and +several hundred yards in width. + +Thursday, December 8, 1768, having procured all necessary supplies, they +left Rio de Janeiro; they did not meet with any material occurrence from +this time to the 22d, when they discovered numerous birds of the +Prosillaria genus, in latitude 39 degrees 37 minutes south, and +longitude 49 degrees 16 minutes west; they were also frequently +surrounded by great numbers of porpoises, of a singular species, which +were about fifteen feet in length, and of an ash-colour. On the 23d they +observed an eclipse of the moon; and about seven o’clock in the morning +a small white cloud appeared in the west, from which a train of fire +issued, extending itself westerly: about two minutes after they heard +two distinct loud explosions, immediately succeeding each other like +canon, after which the cloud soon disappeared. + +On the 24th they caught a large loggerhead tortoise, weighing one +hundred and fifty pounds. They likewise shot several birds, among which +was an albetross, measuring between the tips of its wings nine feet and +an inch; and from its beak to the tail two feet one inch and an half. On +the 30th they ran upwards of fifty leagues, through vast numbers of land +insects, some in the air, and others upon the water; they appeared to +resemble exactly the flies that are seen in England, though they were +thirty leagues from land, and some of these insects never quit it beyond +a few yards. Captain Cook imagined he was at this time nearly opposite +to the bay called Sans fond (without bottom) where it is supposed, by +some writers, that the continent of America is divided by a passage; but +it was the opinion of the gentlemen on board, that there might be a +large river, which probably had occasioned an inundation. The 31st they +had much thunder, lightning, and rain: this and the three following days +they saw several whales, and likewise several birds, about the size of a +pidgeon, with white bellies and grey beaks. + +January 4, 1769, they saw an appearance of land, which they mistook for +Pepys’ island; but on their standing towards it, it proved, what the +sailors call a Fog Bank. The ship’s crew were about this time, on their +complaining of cold, furnished with each a pair of trowsers, and a +jacket made of the stuff called Fearnought. They saw on the 11th, after +passing Falkland’s Island, at about four leagues distance, Terra Del +Fuego. Smoke was perceived, which they took for a signal, as it did not +continue after they had passed along the shore to the south-east. On the +14th they entered the streight of Le Maire; but the tide being against +them, they were driven out with great violence, and the waves ran so +high, that the ship’s bowsprit was frequently under water; at length +however they got anchorage, at the entrance of a little cove, which +Captain Cook called ST. VINCENT’S BAY. + +The weeds, which here grow upon rocky ground, are very remarkable; they +appear above the surface in eight and nine fathoms water; the leaves are +four feet in length, and many of the stalks, though not more than an +inch and a half in circumference, above 100. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander +having been on shore some hours, they returned with more than a hundred +different plants and flowers, hitherto unnoticed by the European +botanists. The country in general near the bay was flat, and the bottom +particularly was a plain covered with grass; here was plenty of wood, +water and fowl, winter’s bark was found in great abundance. The trees +are a species of the birch, but are neither lofty nor large; the wood is +white, and they bear a small leaf. Here are also white and red +cranberries. + +Sunday 15, having anchored in 12 fathoms, upon coral rocks, before a +small cove, distant from shore about a mile, two of the natives came +down upon the beach, in expectation that they would land; but this +situation affording little shelter, the Captain got under sail again, +and the natives retired. + +About two o’clock they anchored in the bay of Good Success, and the +Captain went on shore, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, to +search for a watering-place, and confer with the Indians. These +gentlemen proceeded about a hundred yards before the Captain, when two +of the Indians having advanced forward and seated themselves, they rose, +upon Mr. Banks and the Doctor’s coming up, and each of them threw away a +small stick, which they had before in their hands; this they did in such +a direction, that the sticks flew both from themselves and the +strangers, which they meant as a token of peace, and a testimonial of +their renouncing weapons; they then returned briskly towards their +companions, who had remained at some distance behind, and made signs to +the strangers to advance, which they accordingly complied with. The +reception the gentlemen met with was friendly, though the manner was +uncouth. The civility was returned, by the distribution of beads and +ribbons, with which the Indians were much pleased. After a mutual +confidence had been thus established, the rest of the English party +joined, and a general conversation, though of a singular kind, ensued. +Three of the Indians now returned with the Captain and his friends to +the ship, whom they cloathed with jackets, and gave them bread, jerked +beef, &c. part of which they eat, and carried the remainder on shore. +They refused to drink rum or brandy, after tasting them, intimating by +signs that it burnt their throats. This circumstance may perhaps +corroborate the opinion of those who think water the natural drink of +mankind, as of all other animals. One of these Indians made several long +and loud speeches, though no part of either was intelligible to any of +us. Another of them stole the covering of a globe, which he concealed +under his skin garment. After remaining on board about two hours, they +returned on shore, Mr. Banks accompanying them. He conducted them to +their companions, who appeared no way curious to know what their friends +had seen, and the latter were as little disposed to relate as the others +were to enquire. None of these people exceeded five feet ten inches in +height, yet their bodies appeared large and robust, though their limbs +were small. They had broad flat faces, low foreheads, high cheeks, noses +inclining to flatness, wide nostrils, small black eyes, large mouths, +small but indifferent teeth, and black strait hair, falling down over +their ears and forehead, which was commonly smeared with brown and red +paints; and, like all the original natives of America, they were +beardless. Their garments were the skins of guanicos and seals, which +they wrapped round their shoulders. The men likewise wear on their heads +a bunch of yarn, spun from the wool of guanicos, which falls over their +foreheads, and ties behind with the sinews or tendons of some animal. +Many of both sexes were painted in different parts of their bodies, with +red, white, and brown colours; and had also three or four perpendicular +lines pricked across their cheeks and noses. The women have a small +string tied round each ancle, and wear each a flap of skin tied round +the middle. They carry the children on their backs, and are generally +employed in domestic labour and drudgery. + +Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, attended by servants, set out from the ship +on the 16th, in the morning, with the design of going into the country +as far as they could that day, and returning in the evening. Having +entered a wood, they ascended the hill through a pathless wilderness +till the afternoon. After they had reached what they had taken for a +plain, they were greatly disappointed in finding it a swamp, covered +with birch, the bushes interwoven, and so inflexible they could not be +divided; however, as they were not above three feet high, they stept +over them; but they were up to the ancles in the boggy ground. The +morning had been very fine, but the weather now became cold and +disagreeable; the blasts of wind were very piercing, and a shower of +snow fell. They nevertheless pursued their route, in expectation of +finding a better road. Before they had got over this swamp, an accident +happened that greatly disconcerted them; Mr. Buchan, one of the +draughtsmen Mr. Banks had brought out, fell into a fit. It was +absolutely necessary to stop and kindle a fire, and such as were most +fatigued remained to assist him; but Messrs. Banks, Solander, Green and +Monkhouse, proceeded and attained the spot they had in view. Here they +found a great variety of plants, that gratified their curiosity, and +repaid them for their toil. + +Upon returning to the rest of the company, amidst the snow which fell in +greater abundance, and being pinched with the cold that was now become +more intense, they found Mr. Buchan much recovered. They had previously +sent Mr. Monkhouse and Mr. Green back to Mr. Buchan, and those who +remained with him, in order to bring them to a hill, which was +conjectured to lie in a better track for returning to the wood, and was +accordingly fixed on as a place of rendezvous. They resolved from this +hill to pass through the swamp, which this way did not appear to be more +than half a mile in extent, into the covert of the wood, in which they +proposed building a hut and kindling a fire, to defend them from the +severity of the weather. The whole party accordingly met at the place +appointed about eight in the evening, whilst it was still day-light, and +proceeded towards the next valley. Dr. Solander having often passed +mountains in cold countries, was sensible that extreme cold, when joined +with fatigue, occasions a drowsiness, that is not easily resisted; he +accordingly intreated his friends to keep in motion, however +disagreeable it might be to them; his words were, “Whoever sits down, +will sleep; and whoever sleeps, will wake no more.” Every one seemed +accordingly armed with resolution; but on a sudden the cold became so +very intense, as to threaten the most direful effects. It was very +remarkable, that Dr. Solander himself, who had so forcibly admonished +and alarmed his party, should be the first who insisted upon being +suffered to repose. In spite of the most earned intreaties of his +friends, he lay down amidst the snow, and it was with great difficulty +they kept the Doctor awake. One of the black servants became also weary +and faint, and was upon the point of following the Doctor’s example. Mr. +Buchan was therefore detached with a party to make a fire at the first +commodious spot they could meet with. Mr. Banks, with four more, +remained with the Doctor and Richmond the black, who, with the utmost +difficulty, were induced to come on; but when they had traversed the +greatest part of the swamp, they expressed their inability of going any +farther. When the black was informed, that if he remained there he would +soon be frozen to death; he replied, that he was so exhausted with +fatigue, that death would be a relief to him. Doctor Solander said he +was not unwilling to go, but that he must first take some sleep, +notwithstanding what he had before declared to the company. Thus +resolved, they both sat down, supported by bushes, and in a short time +fell fast asleep. Intelligence now came from the advanced party, that a +fire was kindled about a quarter of a mile farther on the way. Mr. Banks +then waked the Doctor, who had almost lost the use of his limbs already, +though it was but a few minutes since he sat down; he nevertheless +consented to go on. Every measure taken to relieve the black proved +ineffectual, he remained motionless, and they were obliged to leave him +to the care of the other black servant and a sailor, who appeared to +have been the least hurt by the cold, and they were to be relieved, as +soon as two others were sufficiently warmed to supply their places. The +Doctor was with much difficulty got to the fire. Those who were sent to +relieve the companions of Richmond, returned in about half an hour, +without being able to find them. What rendered the mortification still +greater was, that a bottle of rum, the whole stock of the party, could +not be found, and was judged to have been left to one of the three who +were missing. There was a fall of snow, which incessantly continued for +near two hours, and there remained no hopes of seeing the three +absentees again, at least, alive. About 12 o’clock, however, a great +shouting was heard at a distance, which gave inexpressible satisfaction +to every one present. Mr. Banks and four others went forth and met the +sailor, with just strength enough to walk; he was immediately sent to +the fire, and they proceeded to seek for the two others. They found +Richmond upon his legs, but incapable of moving them; the other black +was lying senseless upon the ground. All endeavours to bring them to the +fire were fruitless, nor was it possible to kindle one upon the spot, on +account of the snow that had fallen, and was still falling, so that +there was no alternative, and they were compelled to leave the two +unfortunate negroes to their fate, making them, however, a bed of boughs +of trees, and covering them very thick with the same. + +As all hands had been employed in endeavouring to move the two blacks to +the fire, and had therefore been exposed to the cold for near an hour +and a half, some of them began to be afflicted in the same manner as +those they went to relieve. Briscoe, another of Mr. Banks’s servants, in +particular, began to lose his sensibility. They at length reached the +fire, and passed the night in a very disagreeable manner. The party that +set out from the ship consisted of twelve, of whom two were already +judged to be dead: it was doubtful whether a third would be able to +return on board; and Mr. Buchan, a fourth, seemed threatened again with +his fits. The ship was at the distance of a long day’s journey, through +an unfrequented wood, in which they might probably be bewildered till +night; and being equipped only for a journey of a few hours, they had +not provisions left sufficient to afford the company a single meal. + +On the 17th in the morning, at day-break, nothing presented itself to +view all around but snow, the trees being equally covered with it as the +ground; and the blasts of wind were so violent and frequent, that their +journey was rendered impracticable, and there was much reason to dread +perishing with cold and famine. However, about six in the morning they +were flattered with a dawn of hope of being delivered, by discovering +the sun through the clouds, which gradually diminished. Previous to +their setting out, messengers were dispatched to the unhappy negroes, +who returned with the melancholy news of their death. + +Though the sky had flattered their hopes, the snow still continued +falling very fast, which prevented them beginning their journey so soon +as was proposed; but a breeze springing up about 8 o’clock, added to the +influence of the sun, began to clear the air; and the snow falling in +large flakes from the trees, announced a thaw. The force of hunger +prevailed over every other consideration, and induced them, after having +equally divided the small remains of their provisions, to set forward on +their journey about 10 in the morning. + +In about three hours, to their great astonishment and satisfaction, they +found themselves upon the shore, much nearer to the ship than their most +sanguine expectations could have flattered them. When they took a +retrospect of their former route from the sea, they found, that instead +of ascending the hill in a direct line, they had made a circle almost +round the country. The congratulations every one on board expressed at +their return, can better be imagined than expressed. + +On the 20th Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went again on shore, and landed +in the bottom of the bay, when they collected many shells and plants +hitherto unknown. They returned on board to dinner, and afterwards went +to visit an Indian town about two miles up the country. The access was +difficult on account of the mud. When they approached the town, two of +the Indians came out to meet them: they began to shout in the same +unmeaning manner as they had before done on board the ship. After this +had continued for some time, they conducted Mr. Banks and the Doctor to +the town. It was seated on a small hill, over-shaded with wood, and +consisted of about a dozen huts; constructed without art or regularity. +They were composed of a few poles inclining towards each other, in the +shape of a sugar loaf, which were covered on the weather-side with grass +and boughs; and on the other side a space was left open, which served at +once for a fire-place and a door. The huts that had been seen in St. +Vincent’s Bay were of the same kind. A little grass served for beds and +chairs, and their utensils consisted of a basket for the hand, a satchel +to hang upon the back, and a bladder for water; out of which they drank +through a hole near the top. This town was inhabited by a small tribe, +consisting of about 50 men, women and children. Their bows and arrows +were constructed with neatness and ingenuity: they were made of wood +highly polished; and the point, which was either glass or flint, was +fitted with much skill. Mr. Banks observed glass and flint amongst them +unwrought, with cloth, canvass, rings and buttons, &c. it was therefore +judged, that they travelled at times to the north, as no ship had +touched at this part of Terra del Fuego for some years. + + [Illustration: _View of a Town in the Island of Terra del Fuego._] + +Neither did they testify any surprise at the sight of fire arms, and +appeared to be well acquainted with their use. Probably the spot on +which Mr. Banks and the Doctor met them, was not a fixed habitation; +their houses not being erected to stand any length of time, and they +were destitute of a boat or canoe. They did not seem to have any form of +government among them, nor did there appear any kind of subordination. +These people appeared upon the whole to be the out-casts of human +nature, whose lives were passed in wandering in a forlorn manner over +dreary wastes--whose only dwelling was a wretched hovel, such as has +been described, and their cloaths scarcely sufficient to prevent their +perishing with cold in the summer of this country, much less in the +extreme severity of winter; their only food was shell-fish, which must +soon be exhausted at any one spot; destitute of every convenience +arising from the rudest art, or even an implement to dress their food. +Such were these people, who nevertheless appeared content; so little +does refinement or luxury promote happiness. + +They observed no quadruped animals except seals, sea lions and dogs. Mr. +Banks saw, from a hill, the impression of the foot-steps of a large +beast on the surface of a bog, but he could not determine of what kind +it was. This gentleman observed no land-birds larger than an English +black-bird, except hawks and vultures; there were however ducks, and +other water fowl in abundance; likewise shell-fish, muscles, clams and +limpets in great plenty. + +It is remarkable, that in this country, though uncleared, there was no +species of hurtful or troublesome animals. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander +found a great variety of plants. The beach and the birch may be used for +timber. The scurvy-grass and wild celery, it is imagined, contain +antiscorbutic qualities; and may therefore be of service to the crews of +such ships as hereafter touch at this place. The former is found in +abundance near springs and in damp places, particularly at the +watering-place in the Bay of Good Success, and resembles the +cuckow-flower or lady’s-smock in England. The wild-celery resembles the +celery in our gardens, but the leaves are of a deeper green. It grows in +great plenty near the beach, and upon the land above the spring-tides; +and tastes like parsley mixed with celery. In the morning of Sunday, +January 22, Captain Cook having got in his wood and water, sailed out of +the bay, and steered his course through the streight. + +The generality of writers, who have described the island of Terra del +Fuego, have represented it as covered with snow, and destitute of wood. +In this however they are evidently mistaken, and their error must have +arisen from having visited it in the winter season, when it possibly is +covered with snow. The crew of the Endeavour perceived trees when they +were at a considerable distance from the island, and on their nearer +approach, they found the sea coast and the sides of the hills clothed +with an agreeable verdure. The summit of the hills are barren, but the +vallies are rich, and a brook is to be found at the foot of almost every +hill; the water has a reddish tinge, but is not ill tasted, and was some +of the best Captain Cook took in during his whole voyage. + +The streight of Le Maire is bounded on the west by Terra del Fuego, and +on the east by the west end of Staten Land, and is near five leagues in +length, and as many in breadth. The bay of Good Success is seated about +the middle of it on the side of Terra del Fuego, which presents itself +upon entering the streight from the northward; and the south head of it +may be distinguished by a land-mark, resembling a road from the sea to +the country. It affords good anchorage, and plenty of wood and water. +Staten Land did not appear to Captain Cook in the manner described in +Lord Anson’s Voyage; the horror and wildness with which it is there +depicted was not discernable to Mr. Banks and the other gentlemen; on +the contrary, the land was neither destitute of wood nor verdure, nor +covered with snow, and on the north side there appeared bays and +harbours. This difference may also probably arise from their not having +visited the place in the same season of the year. + +Thursday, January 26, Capt. Cook sailed from Cape Horn. The farthest +southern latitude he made was 60 degrees 10 minutes, by 74 degrees 30 +minutes west. The weather being very calm, Mr. Banks sailed in a small +boat to shoot birds, when he killed some sheer-waters and albatrosses; +the latter were larger than those caught to the north of the streight; +the sheer-waters were less, and their backs darker coloured. The +albatrosses proved very good eating. + +Notwithstanding the doubling of Cape Horn is represented as a very +dangerous course, and that it is generally thought passing through the +streight of Magellan is less perilous, the Endeavour doubled it with as +little danger as the North Foreland on the Kentish coast; the heavens +were fair, the wind temperate, the weather pleasant, and, being near +shore, they had a very distinct view of the coast. + +Wednesday, March 1, Captain Cook was in latitude 38 degrees 44 minutes +south, and longitude 110 degrees 33 minutes west, as well by observation +as by the log; which concurrence, after a course of 660 leagues, was +judged very singular; from whence it was plain, he had no currents that +affected the ship, and most probably had not approached any land of +great extent, as there are always currents near lands of considerable +compass. Mr. Banks killed more than sixty birds in one day, and he +caught two forest flies of the same species, but never yet described: he +also found a cuttle fish, which had just been killed by the birds; it +was different from the fishes of this name, met with in the European +seas, having a double row of sharp talons, resembling those of a cat, +which issued or retracted at will. This fish made excellent soup. + +Saturday, the 25th, on account of a squabble about a bit of seal-skin, +which he had taken in a frolic, but which was represented to his officer +as a theft, one of the marines, a young fellow about twenty, threw +himself overboard, and was drowned. + +About 10 o’clock, Tuesday, April 4, Peter Briscoe, servant to Mr. Banks, +discovered land to the south, about three or four leagues distant. The +Captain immediately hauled up for it, and found it to be an island of an +oval form, with a lake or lagoon in the center, that extended over the +greatest part of it; the border of land which surrounded the lake was in +many places low and narrow, especially towards the south, where the +beach consisted of a reef of rocks; three places on the north side had +the same appearance. This dismembrance of the firm land, made the whole +resemble several woody islands. To the west was a large clump of trees, +and in the center two cocoa-nut trees. Captain Cook came within a mile +on the north side, but though he cast a line of 130 fathom, he found no +bottom, and could not meet with any anchorage. The island appeared +covered with trees of different sorts, but the gentlemen on board could +not ascertain any, with glasses, except palm-nuts and cocoa-nuts; there +were several natives visible on shore; they seemed tall, with remarkable +large heads, which might probably be increased by some bandage; their +hair was black, and their complexions copper colour. There appeared +along the beach, a-breast of the ship, some of these inhabitants, with +pikes or poles in their hands, which seemed twice the height of +themselves: they at this time appeared naked; but when they retired, +upon the ship’s passing the island, they put on a covering of a light +colour. Some clumps of palm-trees served them for habitations, and at a +distance resembled hilly ground, and the groves had a very happy effect. +This island was in latitude 18 degrees south longitude, 139 28 west, and +was named LAGOON ISLAND. + +Captain Cook saw land again in the afternoon to the north-west. He +reached it by sun-set, when it appeared a low island covered with wood, +in form circular, about a mile in circumference. No inhabitants were +visible, nor any cocoa-nut trees; though the Endeavour had reached the +shore within half a mile, yet the island appeared covered with verdure +of various tinges. This island, which is distant from that of Lagoon, +about seven leagues north 62 west. The gentlemen on board named THRUMB +CAP. + +Wednesday the 5th they continued their course with a fine trade wind, +and about three o’clock discovered land to the west. This was a low +island between 10 and 12 leagues in circumference; it resembled in form +a bow, the cord and arch forming the land, and the interstice marking +the water; the beach was flat, without any visible herbage upon it, +being covered with sea-weeds. Its length was between three and four +leagues, and its width about 200 yards; the bow terminated with two +large tufts of cocoa-nut trees; the arch was covered with trees of +various heights, and of different verdure; some parts of it, however, +was low, and resembled the cord. They sailed along the beach, within a +league, till sun-set, when they judged they were half-way between the +two tufts of trees; here they sounded. This island, from the smoke that +was discovered, appeared to be inhabited, and it was named BOW ISLAND. +Captain Cook’s second Lieutenant, Mr. Gore, said, after they had sailed +by the island, that he had perceived several of the natives under the +first clump of trees, that he had discriminated their houses, and +observed many canoes hauled up. But he was the only person who made +these observations, though there were several upon deck besides himself. + +About noon, on Thursday the 6th, they saw land again to the west, and at +three o’clock they came up with it. This land seemed divided into two +islands, or rather collections of islands, their extent being near nine +leagues. The two largest were divided from each other by a streight of +near half a mile in breadth. + +Some of these islands were ten miles or more in length, but appeared +like long narrow strings of land, not above a quarter of a mile broad; +they seemed, however, to produce trees of different kinds, among which +was the cocoa-nut tree. Several of the inhabitants came out in their +canoes, and two of them appeared to have a design of coming on board; +but they, with the rest, stopped at the reef. When Captain Cook had got +about a league from the shore, he perceived some of the natives +following in a canoe, with a sail: he did not think proper to wait for +her, and though she had passed the reef, she discontinued her course. +These people appeared to be about our size, and well made: their +complexion was brown, and they seemed naked; they had, for the most +part, two weapons in their hands; one was a thin long pole, with a kind +of spear at the end; the other resembled a paddle; some of their canoes +were constructed to carry not more than three men; others had on board +six or seven; one hoisted a sail, which, upon the falling of a shower of +rain, was taken down and converted into an awning. It could not be +determined whether the signals made by the people on shore were designed +to deter the Endeavour’s company from landing, or as an invitation to +come on shore; these waved their hats, the others answered by shouting. +The Captain did not judge it prudent or merciful to be convinced in this +respect, as the island appeared of no importance, and the crew were not +destitute of any thing it could produce; and as it must have proved a +bloody contest on the side of the unarmed Indians. This curiosity was +therefore laid aside, in expectation of soon discovering the island, +where they had been directed to make their astronomical observations, +the natives of which, it is reasonable to conjecture, would make no +opposition to the landing of the gentlemen on board, having already +experienced the danger of resistance. + +Captain Cook discovered another island on the seventh, about six in the +morning, which was judged to be in compass about five miles. It was very +low, with a piece of water in the center, and appeared to abound in +wood, and to be covered with verdure, but no inhabitants were visible. +It was called BIRD ISLAND, from the number of birds that were flying +about. + +Saturday 8, in the afternoon, they saw land to the north, and in the +evening came a-breast of it, at about five miles distance. This land +seemed to be a chain of low islands, it was of an oval figure, and +consisted of coral and sand, with a few clumps of small trees, and in +the middle of it was a lagoon. It was, from its appearance, called CHAIN +ISLAND. They saw smoke, which arose from different parts, by which they +were convinced it was inhabited. + +On Monday the 10th, after a tempestuous night, Captain Cook saw +Osnaburgh Island; it is called by the natives Maite. This island is high +and circular, about four miles in circumference; it is partly naked and +rocky, and partly covered with trees. + +The same day, upon their looking out for the island to which they were +destined, they saw land a-head. The next morning it appeared very high +and mountainous, and it was known to be King George the IIId’s Island, +so named by Captain Wallis, but by the natives called Otaheite. The +calms prevented the Endeavour from approaching it till the morning of +the 12th, when a breeze springing up, before 11 several canoes were +making towards the ship; only a few approached, and the people on board +those that came the nearest would not come on board Captain Cook. Each +canoe had in it young plantains, and branches of trees. They were +brought, as Captain Cook was afterwards informed, as tokens of peace and +friendship, and they were handed up the sides of the ship by the people +in one of the canoes, who made signals in a very expressive manner, +intimating, that they desired these emblems of pacification should be +placed in a conspicuous part of the ship; and they were accordingly +stuck amongst the rigging, at which they certified their approbation. +Their cargoes consisting of cocoa-nuts, bananas, bread fruit, apples and +figs, which were very acceptable to the crew, and were then purchased. + +In the evening they opened the north-west point, and saw York Island, so +named by the crew of the Dolphin. They lay off and on all night, and in +the morning of the 13th they entered Port Royal Harbour, in the island +of Otaheite, and anchored within half a mile of the shore. A great +number of the natives immediately came off in their canoes, bringing +with them bananas, cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, apples, and some hogs, which +they bartered with the snip’s crew for beads and other trinkets. + +The tree that bears the bread-fruit is about the size of the +horse-chesnut; its leaves are near a foot and a half long, in shape +oblong, resembling, in almost every respect, those of the fig-tree; its +fruit is not unlike the cantaloupe melon, either in size or shape; it is +inclosed in a thin skin, and its core is as large as a person’s thumb; +it is somewhat of the consistency of new bread, and as white as the +blanched almon: it divides into parts, and they roast it before it is +eaten; it has little or no taste. An elderly man, named _Owhaw_, who was +known to Mr. Gore and others, who had visited this island with Captain +Wallis, came on board, and as he was considered a useful man, the +Captain endeavoured to gratify all his enquiries. Captain Cook now drew +up several necessary rules for the regulation of their traffic with the +inhabitants, and ordered that they should be punctually observed. + +When the ship was properly secured, the Captain went on shore with Mr. +Banks and Dr. Solander, a party under arms, and their friend the old +Indian. They were received on shore by some hundreds of the natives, who +were struck with such awe, that the first who approached crept almost +upon his hands and knees. He also presented to them branches of trees, +the usual symbol of peace. This symbol was received, on the part of the +English gentlemen, with demonstrations of satisfaction and friendship; +and noticing, that while each of the Indians held one of these branches +in his hand, they gathered some, and followed the example of the +natives. + +They were conducted by the old Indian, accompanied by his countrymen, +towards the place where the Dolphin had watered; here the ground being +cleared, the chiefs of the natives threw down their boughs, and the +Captain and his companions followed the example, after having drawn up +the marines, who, marching in order, dropped their branches upon those +of the Indians. When they came to the watering-place, the Indians +intimated, that they had their permission to occupy that ground, but it +was not suited to their purpose. In the course of this walk, and a +circuit through the woods, the Indians had got rid of their timidity, +and became familiarized. On the way they received beads and other small +presents, at which they expressed great pleasure. + +The whole circuit was near four miles, thro’ groves, consisting of trees +of cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit. Beneath which trees were the habitations +of the natives, consisting of only a roof, destitute of walls. In this +peregrination the gentlemen were not a little disappointed at finding +very few fowls or hogs. Captain Cook was informed by such of the party +as had been here with the Dolphin, that none of the people hitherto seen +were of the first rank, and they imagined the Queen’s residence was +moved, no traces remaining of it. Next morning, before they left the +ship, several canoes came about her, filled with people, whose dress +denoted them of the superior class: two of these came on board, and each +of them fixed upon a friend; one of them chose Mr. Banks, and the other +Captain Cook. The ceremony consisted of taking off their cloaths in +great part, and putting them upon their adopted friends. This compliment +was returned, by presenting them some trinkets. They then made signs for +these gentlemen to go with them to the place of their abode; and the +Captain being desirous of meeting with a more convenient harbour, and +knowing more of the people, readily assented. Accordingly the Captain, +Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, with the Indians and other friends, got into +two boats. About three miles distance they landed, among several +hundreds of the natives, who conducted them to a large house. Upon their +entrance they saw a middle aged man, named _Tootahah_, who, as soon as +they were seated, ordered a cock and hen to be produced, which he +presented to Mr. Banks and the Captain, as well as a piece of perfumed +cloth; which compliment was returned by a present from Mr. Banks. They +were then conducted with great civility to several large houses, +constructed in the same manner as those already described; the ladies, +so far from shunning, invited, and even pressed them to be seated. +Whilst they were afterwards walking along the shore, they met, +accompanied by a great number of natives, another Chief, named _Tubora +Tumaida_, with whom they settled a treaty of peace, in the manner before +described. Tubora Tumaida intimated, he had provisions for them if they +chose to eat, and they accordingly dined heartily upon bread-fruit, +plantains and fish. + +In the course of this visit, Tomio, the wife of the Chief, placed +herself upon the same matt with Mr. Banks, close by him, but she not +being young, nor appearing ever to have possessed many charms; to these +causes may be ascribed the little attention this gentleman paid her; and +Tomio received the additional mortification of Mr. Banks’s beckoning to +a pretty girl, who, with some reluctance, came and seated herself by +him. The Princess was somewhat mortified at the preference given to her +rival, nevertheless she continued her assiduities to him. This whimsical +scene was interrupted by an event of a serious nature. Dr. Solander +having discovered that he had lost an opera glass, they complained to +the Chief, and interrupted the convivial party. This complaint was +enforced, by Mr. Banks’s starting up and striking the butt end of his +musket on the ground, which struck the Indians with a panic, and they +all precipitately ran out of the house, except the Chief, and a few +others of the superior class. + +The Chief appeared much concerned at this accident; not, as we had +reason afterwards to believe, that he had any aversion to knavish +practices, but because he feared that this early instance of dishonesty +might give us unfavourable suspicions of his countrymen, and thereby +deprive him of those advantages and emoluments which they expected to +gain from us, and which by various artifices they afterwards secured, +when our connexion with them became more intimate. The chief, therefore, +to obviate any disadvantageous impressions, gave us to understand, with +an appearance of great probity, that the place which the Doctor had +mentioned was not within his district, but that he would send to the +Chief of it, and endeavour, if possible to have the glass recovered; but +that if this could not be done, he would make the Doctor compensation, +by giving him as much new cloth, of which he shewed large quantities, as +should be thought equal to its value. The case however was in a little +time brought, and the glass itself soon after, which deprived us of the +merit we should otherwise have had in refusing the cloth which had been +offered us. But it afforded an opportunity of convincing the natives of +our generosity, by lavishing rewards on them for an action, to which +self-interest had been the motive, rather than any sentiment of probity; +to which, from numerous transactions, they appeared to be absolute +strangers. After this adventure was amicably terminated, they returned +to the ship about six o’clock in the evening. + +Saturday the 15th in the morning, several of the Chiefs, one of whom was +very corpulent, came on board from the other point, bringing with them +hogs, bread-fruit, and other refreshments, in exchange for which they +gave them hatchets, linen, beads and other trinkets, but some of them +took the liberty of stealing the top of the lightening chain. This day +the Captain, attended by Mr. Banks and some of the other gentlemen, went +a-shore to fix on a proper spot to erect a small fort for their defence +during their stay on the island; and the ground was accordingly marked +out for that purpose. A great number of the natives looking on all the +while, and behaving in the most peaceable and friendly manner. + +Mr. Banks having suspected, from seeing few hogs or poultry in their +walks, that they had, upon the ship’s arrival, been driven farther up +the country, it was resolved to penetrate into the woods; some marines +and a petty officer being appointed to guard the tent in the interim; +several of the natives accompanied the gentlemen in this excursion. Upon +crossing a little river Mr. Banks perceiving some ducks, fired, and +killed three. The Indians were struck with the utmost terror at this +event, which occasioned them to fall suddenly to the ground, as if they +had been shot at the same time; they recovered, however, presently from +their fright, and continued the march. Before this party had gone much +farther, they were alarmed by the discharge of two pieces, fired by the +tent-guard. Owhaw, after calling together the Captain’s party, dispersed +all the Indians except three, who broke branches of trees as pledges of +their fidelity. Upon their return to the tent, it appeared, that an +Indian had taken an opportunity to snatch away one of the centinels +musquets; whereupon a young midshipman, under whose command the party +was, very imprudently ordered the marines to fire, which they did +immediately amongst the thickest of the fugitive Indians, in number +above a hundred, several of whom were wounded, but as the criminal did +not fall, they pursued and shot him dead. + +When Mr. Banks heard of the affair, he was greatly displeased with the +guard, and he used his utmost endeavours to accommodate the difference; +going across the river, and through the mediation of an old man, +prevailed on many of the natives to come over to them, bringing +plantain-trees, their usual signal of peace, and clapping their hands in +their breasts, they cried, _Tyau_, which signifies friendship. In a +short time they became social and chearful, and seemed, for the present, +to have buried in oblivion the wanton acts of cruelty which had been so +lately exercised on their fellow countrymen. + +Few of the natives appeared next morning upon the beach, and not one of +them came on board. From hence Mr. Banks and the other gentlemen +concluded, that their apprehensions were not intirely removed, more +especially as even Owhaw had forsaken them. The Captain, in consequence +of these disagreeable appearances, brought the ship nearer to shore, and +moored her so as to make her broad-side bear on the spot which had been +marked for erecting the fort. The Captain went on shore in the evening, +with some of the gentlemen, when the Indians assembled round them, and +they trafficked together in a friendly manner. + +Mr. Banks had the misfortune of losing Mr. Buchan on the 17th. + +The same day they received on board a visit from Tubora Tumaida and +Tootahah. As tokens of peace, they brought with them some plantain +branches, and would not risk themselves on board till these had been +received, being probably alarmed at the affair of the tent. They also +brought some bread-fruit and a hog ready dressed: in return for which +they received some nails. + +The fort began to be erected on the 18th. Some of the company were +employed in throwing up intrenchments, whilst others were occupied in +cutting fascines and pickets, which the Indians of their own accord +chearfully assisted in bringing from the woods. Three sides of the fort +were fortified with intrenchments and pallisades; and on the other which +was flanked by a river, the water-casks being filled, were placed so as +to form a breast-work. + +This day the natives brought down such quantities of bread-fruit and +cocoa-nuts, that it was necessary to reject them, and to intimate to +them, that the company would not want any for two days. Beads were +trafficked this day for every thing. Mr. Banks’s tent being got up, he, +for the first time, slept on shore. No Indian attempted to approach it +the whole night; however, a precaution had been taken to place proper +centinels about it. + +Wednesday 19, Tubora Tumaida visited Mr. Banks at his tent, and brought +with him, besides his wife and family, the materials for erecting a +house, in the neighbourhood of the fort, where he designed to reside: +some time after he had reached the tent, he requested Mr. Banks to +accompany him back to the woods; on their arrival at a place where he +occasionally resided, he presented him with two garments, one of which +was of red cloth, and the other of very fine matting; in which, having +clothed Mr. Banks, he conducted him to the ship, and with his wife and +son staid to dinner: they had a dish served up, which was prepared by +one of Tubora Tumaida’s attendants, not unlike in taste to what in +England is called flummery; of this dish the natives seemed exceedingly +fond, but the English could not relish it. Tubora Tumaida had likewise +brought with him some food, which appeared like the flower of wheat; +this being mixed with cocoa-nut liquor, and some hot stones put into it, +was stirred about till it became a thick jelly; on tasting it, they +found it of an agreeable flavour, not very inferior to good blanc mange. + +Without the lines a sort of market was established, which was tolerably +well supplied. Tubora Tumaida became Mr. Banks’s and the other +gentlemens frequent guest; he adopted their manners, and was the only +one of his countrymen who had attempted to use a knife and fork. + +Mr. Monkhouse, the Surgeon, said he had seen, in his evening walk the +body of the man who had been shot at the tent. It was deposited in a +shed, close to the house where he had resided when alive, and others +were within ten yards of it. It was in length about fifteen feet, and +eleven in breadth, and the height was proportionable: the two sides and +one end were partly enclosed with a sort of wicker-work, the other end +was entirely open. The corps was deposited on a bier, the frame of which +was wood, with a matted bottom, supported by posts about five feet high. +The corps was covered with a matt, and over that a white cloth; by its +side lay a wooden mace, and towards the head two cocoa-nut shells: +towards the feet was a bunch of green leaves, and small dried boughs, +tied together and stuck in the ground, near which was a stone the size +of a cocoa-nut: here was also placed a young plantain-tree and a stone +axe. A great number of palm-nuts were hung in firings at the open end of +the shed; and the stem of a plantain-tree was stuck up without the shed; +upon this stem was placed a cocoa-nut shell filled with fresh water. At +the side of one of the posts, there hung a little bag with some roasted +pieces of bread-fruit. The natives did not seem pleased at his +approaching the body, their jealousy and uneasiness being very visibly +depicted in their countenances. + +The flies on shore were so very tormenting, that they were obliged to +destroy them with musqueto nets and fly traps. + +They had a specimen of the music of the country on the 22d; some of the +natives performing on flutes, which had only two stops; they were blown +like the German flute, but the performer blew with his nostril instead +of his mouth: several others sung, only one tune, to this instrument. + + [Illustration: _A Musical Youth of the New Discovered Islands in the + Habit of his Profession._ + _A Fly Fan_] + +Some of the Indians brought the English axes to grind and repair, most +of which they had received from the Dolphin; but a French one occasioned +much speculation, and it at length appeared to have been left here by +Mr. de Bougainville. + +On the 24th Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander made an excursion into the +country, which they found to be level and fertile for about two miles +along the shore to the eastward, after which the hills reached quite to +the water’s edge, and farther on they ran out into the sea. After +passing these hills, which continued about three miles, they discovered +a large plain, abounding with good houses, inhabited by people who +seemed to be in affluence. A very wide river issuing from a valley, +added greatly to the beauty of this place: they crossed this river, and +perceived the country to be again barren, which determined them to +return; but just as they had taken this resolution, they were offered +some refreshment by one of the natives, a man, as some authors describe +to be, mixed with many nations, but different from them all, his skin +being of a dead white, though some parts of his body were not so white +as others; his hair, eye-brows, and beard were as white as his skin. The +great joy of Tubora Tumaida and his women, who met them as they +returned, is not to be expressed. + +On the 25th several of their knives were missing; upon which Mr. Banks, +who had lost his among the rest, accused Tubora Tumaida with having +stolen it, which caused him to be very unhappy, as he happened to be +innocent of the fact, Mr. Banks’s servant having mislaid it; and the +rest were produced in a rag by a native. The Indian was some time before +he would forget this accusation, the tears starting from his eyes, and +he made signs with the knife, that if he had ever been guilty of such an +action, as was imputed to him, he would suffer his throat to be cut. +However, in general, these people, from the highest to the lowest, are +the greatest thieves in the world. + +On the 26th, six swivel guns were mounted upon the fort, which put the +natives into great consternation, and caused several fishermen, who +lived upon the point, to remove farther off, imagining they were to be +fired at in a few days. + +The next day Tubora Tumaida, with a friend, a remarkable glutton, and +three of his women, dined at the fort; after which he set out for his +house in the wood. In a short time he returned in much agitation, to +acquaint Mr. Banks, that the ship’s butcher had threatened to cut his +wife’s throat, upon her refusing to sell him a stone hatchet, which he +had taken a fancy to, for a nail. It clearly appeared he had been +culpable, and he was flogged on board, in sight of several of the +Indians. As soon as the first stroke was given they interfered, and +earnestly intreated that he might be untied. This being refused, they +burst into tears, and shewed great concern. + +On Friday 28, one of Tubora Tumaida’s female attendants, came down to +the fort in the greatest affliction, the tears gushing from her eyes, +and full of lamentation. Mr. Banks seeing her, insisted upon knowing the +cause; but instead of answering, she struck herself several times with a +shark’s tooth upon the head, till she caused a great effusion of blood; +while her distress was unnoticed by several other Indians, who continued +laughing and talking with the utmost unconcern. After this, she gathered +up some pieces of cloth, which she had thrown down to catch the blood, +and threw them into the sea, as if she wished to obliterate her absurd +behaviour. She then bathed herself in the river, and with remarkable +chearfulness returned to the tent, as if nothing extraordinary had +happened. + +During the forenoon of this day, canoes were continually coming in, and +the tents at the fort were filled with people of both sexes. Mr. +Molineux, Master of the Endeavour, went on shore, and seeing a woman, +whose name was Oberea, he declared she was the person he judged to be +the queen of the island, when he came there on board the Dolphin in the +last voyage. + +The eyes of every one were now fixed on her, who had made so +distinguished a figure, in the accounts that had been given by the first +discoverers of this island. The person of the queen Oberea was of a +large make, and tall; she was about forty years of age, her skin white; +her eyes had great expression and meaning in them; she had been +handsome, but her beauty was now upon the decline. She was soon +conducted to the ship, and went on board, accompanied with some of her +family. Many presents were made her, particularly a child’s doll, which +seemed the most to engross her attention. Captain Cook accompanied her +on shore; and as soon as they landed, she presented him with a hog, and +some plantains, which were carried to the fort in procession, Oberea and +the Captain bringing up the rear. They met Tootahah, who, though not +King, seemed to be at this time invested with a sovereign authority. He +immediately became jealous of the Queen’s having the doll; which made +them find it necessary to compliment him with one also. A doll now was +preferable to a hatchet, though it was not considered so long, as they +soon were looked upon as trifles of little or no value. + +The ship’s provisions seemed to be very acceptable to the men, but the +women were shy of tasting any of them. They were solicited strongly, +this day, to dine with the gentlemen; but they refused, and chose to +partake of plantains with the servants; a mystery that could not be +explained. + +On Saturday 29, in the forenoon, Mr. Banks paid a visit to Oberea, who +was still asleep under the awning of her canoe, whither he went with an +intention of calling her up. Upon entering her chamber, to his great +surprise, he found her in bed with a handsome young fellow, about five +and twenty; upon which he immediately retired with some precipitation, +not a little disconcerted at this discovery; but he was soon given to +understand, that such amours were by no means considered scandalous, and +that Obadie, the person found in bed with the queen, was by every one +known to have been selected by her as the object of her lascivious +hours. The queen soon got up and dressed herself to wait upon Mr. Banks. +After dressing him in a suit of fine cloth, they proceeded together to +the tents. Mr. Banks paid a visit in the evening to Tubora Tumaida, and +was greatly surprized to find him and his family all in tears; he in +vain attempted to discover the cause, and soon took leave of them. Upon +his return he was told by the officers, that Owhaw had foretold that the +guns would be fired in four days, and as this was the eve of the third +day, they were alarmed at the situation they judged themselves to be in. +In consequence of this intelligence they doubled the centries at the +fort, and the gentlemen slept under arms. Mr. Banks, about two in the +morning, went round the point, but finding every thing as he could wish, +he dropt all suspicions of the Indians having hostile intentions, and +dwelt quite secure, as the little fortification was now complete. + +The next day, Sunday the 30th, Tomio came running to the tents, and +taking Mr. Banks by the arm, to whom they applied in all emergent cases, +told him that Tubora Tumaida was dying, owing to something which had +been given him to eat by his people, and prayed him to go instantly to +him. Accordingly Mr. Banks went, and found the Indian very sick. He was +told, that he had been vomiting, and had thrown up a leaf, which they +said contained some of the poison which he had taken. Upon examining the +leaf, Mr. Banks found it to be nothing more than tobacco, which the +Indian had begged of some of their people. He looked up to Mr. Banks, +while he was examining the leaf, as if he had not a moment to live. Mr. +Banks, now knowing his disorder, ordered him to drink of cocoa-nut milk, +which soon restored him to health, and he was as chearful as ever. + +On the 1st of May Captain Cook produced an iron adze, made in imitation +of one of their stone ones, which had been brought home by Captain +Wallis, and shewed it to Tootahah, who took such a fancy to it, that +notwithstanding he was offered the choice of any of the things that were +in his chests, he snatched it up with the greatest eagerness, and would +accept of nothing else. The same day a Chief, who had dined on board a +few days before, accompanied by some of his women, who used to feed him, +came on board by himself, and when dinner was on table, the Captain +helped him to some victuals, thinking upon this occasion he would +condescend to feed himself; but he never attempted to eat, and had not +one of the servants fed him, he would certainly have gone without his +dinner. + +In the afternoon they took the astronomical quadrant, with some other +instruments, on shore. + +On Tuesday the 2d, having occasion to use the quadrant, to their great +astonishment and concern it was missing; this was the more +extraordinary, as a centinel had been posted the whole night within a +few yards of the tent in which it had been deposited; and it had never +been taken out of the case in which it was packed. Their own people were +at first suspected, imagining they might have mistaken the contents for +articles used in traffic. They searched the fort and the adjacent +places, and a considerable reward was offered, as the loss of this +instrument would have rendered it impossible for them to have made the +necessary observations respecting the Transit, one of the principal +objects of their voyage. After every fruitless search had been made, Mr. +Banks, accompanied by Mr. Green, and some other gentlemen, set out for +the woods, where he thought he might gain some intelligence of the +robbery, if it had been committed by the natives. In the course of their +journey they met Tubora Tumaida, with a few of the natives, who was made +by signs to understand, that some of his countrymen had stolen the +quadrant, and Mr. Banks insisted upon being conducted to the place where +it was concealed. Accordingly they proceeded together a few miles, and, +after some enquiry, Tubora Tumaida received information of the thief, +and that he was to be found at a place about four miles distant; as they +had no other arms but a brace of pistols, and the spot for which they +were destined was at so considerable a distance from the fort, they were +not without some apprehensions of danger. They accordingly dispatched +one of their company to Captain Cook, desiring him to forward another +party after them; having laid an embargo upon all the canoes in the bay; +a party accordingly set out, with the Captain at their head. + +Mr. Banks and Mr. Green in the interim pursued their route, and at the +very place which had been mentioned were met by one of Tubora Tumaida’s +own people, with part of the quadrant; soon afterwards the box in which +it had been packed, containing the other parts of it, was recovered; +and, upon examination, though it had been taken to pieces, they had the +satisfaction to find it had received no material injury. + +In the evening, when Mr. Banks and the other gentlemen, with Tubora +Tumaida, returned, they were very much surprized to find Tootahah +confined in the fort, the gate of which was surrounded by the natives, +who expressed the utmost dread and anxiety on the occasion, as they had +no other expectation but it was intended to put him to death. + +Upon enquiry into this affair, it appeared that the Indians were so much +alarmed at Captain Cook’s going up into the country with a party of +armed men, that in the evening most of them forsook their habitations +near the fort; a canoe likewise attempted to leave the bay, which the +Lieutenant, who commanded on board the ship, and had been ordered not to +permit any canoe to go out, perceiving, dispatched a boat to detain her, +but she no sooner came near them than they jumped into the sea; among +this unfortunate number was Tootahah, who, being taken up, was sent by +the Lieutenant to the fort; and the commanding officer thought it his +duty to detain him. + +He could not be persuaded that he was not to be put to death, till +Captain Cook gave orders for him to be conducted out of the fort. He was +received with great affection by the people, every one pressing forward +to embrace him. + +On Wednesday the 3d, in the morning, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander attended +as usual to purchase provisions, but the Indians brought nothing to +market; nor could they procure any from some fishing-boats which came +a-breast of the tents, though they were in great want of cocoa-nuts and +bread fruit. Mr. Banks walked into the woods, and heard great complaints +from the people of the ill treatment of their Chief, who they said had +been beaten, and otherwise ill used, of which Mr. Banks declared he was +totally ignorant. The hogs which he had left as a present, were sent for +back by the Chief, which, probably, he was of opinion they had +ill-deserved. However, they would not send them till he came himself, by +which means they thought to procure a reconciliation, knowing that +absence would promote that coolness between them, to which the first +interview might put an end, especially as they were told, the Chief did +not intend coming to the fort for near a fortnight. + +Their provisions now were extremely scarce, and the markets ill +supplied, the people resenting the ill usage their Chief had received. +The next day, with some difficulty, Mr. Banks obtained a few baskets of +bread-fruit from Tubora Tumaida in the woods, which were a very +seasonable relief. An axe and shirt were sent for this day by Tootahah, +in return for his two hogs which they promised to bring him the next +day. If they had not complied with this request, they could have +scarcely procured any provisions. + +After his sending again early in the morning, on Friday 5, Mr. Banks and +Dr. Solander, with the Captain, set out in the pinnace, taking one of +Tootahah’s people with them, they soon reached Eparre, the place where +he dwelt, which was but a few miles to the west of the tents. + +Upon their arrival, they found great numbers of people upon the shore +waiting for them. They were immediately conducted to the Chief, whilst +the people shouted round them, _Taio Tootahah_, “Tootahah is your +friend;” they found him sitting under a tree, and some old men standing +round him. As soon as he had made signs for them to sit down, he asked +for his axe, which Captain Cook presented to him, with a shirt and a +broad cloth garment, with which he seemed greatly pleased; and put the +garment on. After eating a mouthful together in the boat, they were +conducted to a large area, or court-yard, on one side of his house, +where an entertainment was provided for them, consisting of wrestling. +The Chief sat at the upper end of the area, with several of his +principal men on each side of him, by way of judges, from whom the +conquerors received applause. + +Ten or twelve combatants entered the area, and after many simple +ceremonies of challenging each other, they engaged, endeavouring to +throw one another by dint of strength; then seizing hold of each other +by the thigh, the hand, the hair, or the cloaths, they grappled without +the least art, till one was thrown on his back; this conquest was +applauded by some words from the old men, and three huzzas. After one +engagement succeeded another, but if they could not throw each other +during the space of a minute, they parted either by consent, or the +intervention of their friends. Several women of rank were present; but +it was thought, they would not have attended this amusement, only in +compliment to the English gentlemen. + +A man with a stick, who made way for them when they landed, officiated +here as master of the ceremonies, keeping order among the people. + +When this entertainment was at an end, they were informed, that some +hogs and a quantity of bread-fruit were preparing for their dinner; +which intelligence was the more agreeable, as their appetites were at +this time exceedingly keen. But instead of dining either on shore or on +board of the boat, they had the mortification of going as far as the +ship by the desire of the Chief. + +As soon as the Chief was known to be on board the ship, the people +brought plenty of bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and other provisions to the +fort. + +On Monday 8, early in the morning, Mr. Molineux, the Master, and Mr. +Green, set out in the pinnace to the eastward, in order to procure some +hogs or poultry; but after proceeding a considerable way, and seeing +many hogs and a turtle, they could not purchase either. They belonged to +Tootahah, and the people told them, that they could not sell them +without his consent; so absolute was the power of this man. + +They were now obliged, for the first time, to bring out their nails to +purchase provisions; for one of the smallest size, they obtained near +twenty cocoa-nuts and some bread-fruit, so that they soon got great +plenty. + +On Tuesday 9, in the forenoon, Oberea paid them a visit, accompanied by +her favourite Obadee; she presented them with a hog and some +bread-fruit. + +The forge being now set up and frequently at work, became not only a new +subject of admiration to the Indians, but afforded the Captain an +additional opportunity of conferring obligations on them, by permitting +the smith, during his leisure hours, to convert the old iron, which they +were supposed to have procured from the Dolphin, into different kinds of +tools. + +The natives, after repeated attempts, finding themselves incapable of +pronouncing the names of the English gentlemen, had recourse to new ones +formed from their own language, Mr. Cook was named Toote; Hicks, Hete; +Gore, Touara; Solander, Tolano; Banks, Opane; Green, Treene; and so on +for the greatest part of the ship’s crew. + +As Mr. Banks was sitting in his boat, trading with them as usual, on +Friday the 12th, a very extraordinary ceremony was performed by some +ladies who were strangers, to whom the rest of the Indians giving way on +each side, and forming a passage, they advanced in procession towards +Mr. Banks, to whom they presented some parrots feathers, plantains, and +other plants. They then brought a large bundle of cloth, consisting of +nine pieces, which being divided into three parcels, one of the women, +who appeared to be the principal, stepping on one of the parcels, pulled +up all her cloaths as high as her waist, and then, with an air of +unaffected simplicity, turned round three times. This ceremony she +repeated in the same manner on the other two parcels of cloth, and the +whole being then presented to Mr. Banks, the ladies went and saluted +him; in return for which he made them such presents as he thought would +gratify them the most. + +The next evening Mr. Banks was under the disagreeable necessity of +reprimanding, in very strong terms, Tubora Tumaida, for having the +insolence to snatch his gun from him, and firing it in the air; a thing +which surprised Mr. Banks greatly, as he imagined him totally ignorant +of the use of it. And as their safety in a great measure depended on +keeping them in that state, he told him, with threats, that his touching +his piece was the greatest of insults. The Indian made no reply, but set +off with his family to his house at Eparre. He being an useful man, Mr. +Banks, accompanied by Mr. Molineux, thought fit to go after him, and +they found him among a number of people, greatly dejected. However, as +Mr. Banks judiciously caused all animosity to cease, they brought him +back to supper; after which the Chief and his wife both slept in Mr. +Banks’s tent. One of the natives, not intimidated by their presence, +attempted that very evening to scale the walls of the fort, but was +prevented by the centinel. These Indians could not resist making +attempts to steal the iron and iron tools within the works. + +Sunday morning the 14th, divine service was performed at the fort, in +hopes that some of the principal Indians might be present, but most of +them returned home before the time. However, Tubora Tumaida, and his +wife Tomio, were present; they behaved with great decency, but without +the least apparent curiosity. They made no enquiries with respect to the +ceremonies, and their brethren were as little inquisitive upon their +return. This evening several of their people were witnesses to an +entertainment of a very extraordinary nature, which consisted of the +most indecent acts of lewdness. For example, a young fellow cohabited in +public with a girl about eleven or twelve years of age, without the +least sense of shame; and what is still more extraordinary, Oberea, with +several other females of the first rank, were present during the whole +time. + +On Monday the 15th, Mr. Banks detected Tubora Tumaida in having stolen +some nails. Mr. Banks having a good opinion of this Chief, was willing +to put his fidelity to the test, and several temptations were thrown in +his way, among the rest a basket of nails, which proved irresistible. He +confessed the fact, and upon Mr. Banks’s insisting upon restitution, he +declared the nails were at Eparre; this occasioned high words, and at +length the Indian produced one of them. He was to have been forgiven +upon restoring the rest, but not having resolution to fulfil his +engagement, he fled with his furniture and family before night. + +On the 17th, one of the natives who came in the morning before day-light +to steal some casks, it not being the first offence, the centinel +snapped his gun at him, but it missing fire he escaped. + +On Wednesday 24, Tootahah having sent many messages to request a visit +from the Captain, declaring that he would acknowledge the compliment by +a present of some hogs. Mr. Hicks the first Lieutenant was sent, in +hopes of getting the hogs without the visit. He was received in a very +friendly manner at a place called Tettehah, five miles farther to the +westward, where Tootahah had taken up his residence. He brought away one +hog only, which had been produced immediately upon his arrival, with a +promise of receiving more the next morning; but, when morning came, he +was obliged to depart without them. Mr. Banks, on the 25th, seeing +Tubora and his wife Tomio at the tent, for the first time after he stole +the nails, endeavoured to persuade him to restore them, but in vain. He +was treated with great coolness during his short stay, and his departure +was very abrupt. + +On the 27th of May, Tootahah being removed to a place called +_Atahourou_, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Captain Cook, and some others, set +out in the pinnace to pay him a visit; after making presents of a few +trifling articles, they were invited to stay the night. Mr. Banks having +accepted of a place in Oberea’s canoe, left his companions, in order to +retire to rest. Notwithstanding the care Oberea took of his cloaths, by +having them in her own custody, they were stolen with his pistols, +powder-horn, and many other things that were in his waist-coat pockets. +The alarm was given to Tootahah, who slept in the next canoe, and who +went with Oberea in search of the thief, leaving Mr. Banks with only his +breeches on, and his musquet uncharged. They soon returned, but without +success; Mr. Banks thought proper to put up with the loss for the +present, and a second time endeavour to sleep. But he had scarce +composed himself, before he heard some musick, and perceived lights at a +small distance from shore; this proved to be a concert, which they call +Heiva. Mr. Banks judged it then necessary to get up and try to find his +companions. As soon as he approached the lights, he found the hut, where +Mr. Cook and three of his associates lay, and began to relate his +melancholy tale; but instead of receiving much comfort from them, he was +told, that they had shared the same fate, having lost their stockings +and jackets. However, this did not prevent their hearing out the +concert, which consisted of drums, flutes, and several voices, after +which they retired to rest. + +The next morning Mr. Banks got his musquet from Tupia, with whom he had +intrusted it, and some cloaths from Oberea; in which he made a whimsical +appearance. They then got together, and were joined by Dr. Solander, who +was the only one among them that had not been robbed, having slept at a +house about a mile distant. As to the others they were obliged to put up +with their loss; their cloaths, &c. having never been heard of +afterwards. They set out for the boat not very well pleased, carrying +with them only one hog, which had been intended for their supper the +night before. + +In their return to the boat, they were greatly amused by seeing some +Indians swimming for their diversion, amidst a surf, which no European +boat could have lived in, or the best swimmer in Europe have saved +himself from drowning, had he by accident been exposed to its fury. This +extraordinary surf breaks upon the shore in a few places, where access +to the island is not guarded by a reef, and makes it very dreadful and +dangerous. + +Some Indians from a neighbouring island, to which Captain Wallis gave +the name of DUKE OF YORK’S ISLAND, informed them of more than twenty +islands in the neighbourhood of Otaheite. + +They now began to make necessary preparations for observing the Transit +of Venus, and, from the hints Mr. Cook had received from the Royal +Society, he sent out two parties to make observations from different +spots, that in case they failed at Otaheite, they might succeed +elsewhere; they employed themselves in preparing their instruments, and +instructing such gentlemen with the use of them, as were to go out. And +on Thursday the 1st of June, the next Saturday being the day of the +Transit, they sent the long boat to Eimayo, having on board Mr. Gore, +Mr. Monkhouse, and Mr. Sporing, a friend of Mr. Banks; each furnished +with necessary instruments by Mr. Green. Mr. Banks and several of the +Indians went out with this party. Others were dispatched to find out a +convenient spot, at such a distance from their principal station, as +might suit their purpose. + +Those who went to Eimayo in the long boat, after rowing the best part of +the night, by the help of some Indians aboard a canoe, which they +hailed, found a proper situation for their Observatory upon a rock, +which rose out of the water about one hundred and forty yards from the +shore, where they fixed their tents, and prepared the apparatus for the +following day’s observation. + +On Saturday the 3d, as soon as it was light, Mr. Banks left them to go +to the island for fresh provisions. As he was trading with the natives +who belonged to Tarrao, the King of the island, his majesty arrived with +his sister, whose name was Nuna, in order to pay him a visit. It being +customary among these people to be seated during their conferences, Mr. +Banks spread on the ground his Indian cloth turban, that he wore instead +of a hat, on which they all sat down. After this the royal present was +brought, consisting of a hog and a dog, some cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, +&c. A messenger was dispatched by Mr. Banks for an adze, a shirt, and +some beads, and they were presented to his majesty, who received them +with great pleasure. Tubora Tumaida and Tomio, Indians who had gone with +Mr. Banks upon the expedition, came from the Observatory: Tomio, said to +be related to Tarrao, brought him a long nail, and a shirt for Nuna, by +way of presents. Mr. Banks returned to the Observatory with Tarrao, +Nuna, and three beautiful young women, their chief attendants. He shewed +them the Transit of Venus over the Sun, and informed them, that he and +his companions had come from their own country solely to view it in that +situation. + + [Illustration: _M^r. Banks receiving a Visit from the King of Duke of + Yorks Island._] + +The produce of this island, according to the inspection of Mr. Banks, +proved to be much the same as that of Otaheite, the people also +resembling those of that island, many of them he had seen upon it, who +were well acquainted with the value of the trading articles. + +Both the parties which were sent out, made their observation with great +success. They nevertheless differed in the accounts of the times of the +contacts more than might have been imagined. + + Mr. Green’s Account was as follows. + + Hours Min. Sec. + The first external contact, or first + appearance of Venus on the Sun, was 9 25 4 Morning. + The first internal contact or total + immersion was 9 44 4 Morning. + The second internal contact, or + beginning of the immersion 3 14 8 Afternoon. + The second external contact, or total + immersion 3 32 10 Afternoon. + + Latitude of the Observatory 17° 29′ 15″. + Longitude 149° 32′ 30″ W. of Greenwich. + +While they were viewing the Transit of Venus, some of the ship’s company +broke into one of the store-rooms, and stole a quantity of spike-nails. +As the circulation of these nails might have been greatly detrimental to +them, strict search was made, and one of the thieves was detected. He +had only a few in his custody; but was however punished with two dozen +lashes. + +The death of an old woman of some distinction gave them an opportunity +of observing the manner of the Indians disposing of their dead, whom +they never bury. The kind of bier, on which the corpse is deposited, has +already been described, and the bread-fruit, &c. placed as before, which +Tubora Tumaida informed Mr. Banks was deposited as an offering to their +Gods. A sort of stile was placed in the front of the square, where the +relations of the deceased stood to testify their sorrow; beneath the +awning were several pieces of cloth, on which were the tears and blood +of the mourners, for upon these occasions they wound themselves with a +shark’s tooth. At a small distance two temporary houses were erected, in +one of which some of the relations of the deceased constantly remained, +and in the other the chief mourner resided, who was dressed in a +peculiar manner, to perform a particular ceremony. After the corpse is +rotten, the bones are buried near the spot. It was afterwards +discovered, that these repositories of the dead were used also for +religious worship. + +There having been a scarcity of bread-fruit for some days, an enquiry +was made of the cause, and the reasons the Indians gave was, that there +being a great crop, the fruit had been gathered to make a sort of sour +paste, which the natives call _Mahie_, which, after fermentation, will +keep a long time, and supply them in times of dearth. + +The funeral ceremony, in honour of the old woman, was performed on the +10th by the chief mourner, and Mr. Banks was so desirous to be a +spectator, that he agreed to take a part in the performance of this +ceremony, being informed, that he could not be present on any other +condition. He accordingly went in the evening to the place where the +body was deposited, there he was met by the relations of the deceased, +and afterwards joined by several other persons. The chief mourner was +Tubora Tumaida; his dress was whimsical, though not altogether +ungrateful. Mr. Banks was obliged to quit his European dress, and he had +no other covering than a small piece of cloth, which was tied round his +middle; his body was then blacked with charcoal and water, as were the +bodies of several others, particularly some females, who were as little +covered as himself; the procession then began. The chief mourner uttered +some words, that were judged to be a prayer, when he approached the +body; and he repeated it as he came up to his own house. After this the +procession went on, by permission, towards the fort. It is usual for the +Indians to shun these processions as much as possible; they accordingly +ran into the woods in great haste, as soon at it came in view. From the +fort it proceeded along the shore. Having crossed the river, it entered +the woods, passing several houses, which became immediately uninhabited; +and, during the rest of the procession, which continued above half an +hour, not a single Indian was visible, Mr. Banks filled an office they +called _Nineveh_, and there were two others in the same character. When +none of the other natives were to be seen, they approached the chief +mourner, saying, _imatata_; then those who had assisted at the ceremony +bathed in the river, and resumed their customary dress. + +Such was this uncommon ceremony, in which Mr. Banks performed a capital +part, and met with the applause of Tubora Tumaida, the chief mourner. + +Complaint was made on Monday the 12th to the Captain, that the Indians +had lost some bows and arrows, and strings of plaited hair; the affair +was enquired into, and the fact being well attested, two dozen lashes +were inflicted upon each of the criminals. + +The bows and arrows of the Indians have not hitherto been noticed; but +this day Tubora Tumaida brought his hither, occasioned by a challenge he +had received from Mr. Gore. The Indian Chief imagined it was a trial of +skill who could shoot the farthest; but Mr. Gore proposed shooting at a +mark. The mistake being soon discovered, the champions declined the +trial. The Indian, however, to display his skill, drew his bow, and sent +an arrow, unfeathered, as they all were, nearly the sixth part of a +mile. They shoot kneeling, and drop the bow the instant the arrow is +discharged. + +In this morning’s excursion, Mr. Banks met several of the natives, who +were itinerant musicians, and the place of the evening’s rendezvous +being known, all the English gentlemen went thither to partake of the +diversion. Their instruments were flutes and drums, and a great number +of the Indians were got together upon the occasion. The drummers sung to +the music, and to the astonishment of Mr. Banks and the rest of his +companions they found, that they were the chief subject of the minstrels +lays. These songs must, therefore, have been extemporaneous, the rewards +whereof were such necessaries as they required. + +An iron coal rake for the oven being stole in the night of the 14th, and +many other things having at different times been taken by the Indians, +the Captain judged it of some consequence, if possible, to put an end to +these practices, by making it their common interest to prevent it. He +had already given strict orders, that the centinels should not fire upon +them, even if they were detected in the fact. About twenty-seven of +their double canoes with sails were just come in with cargoes of fish, +which the Captain seized, and then gave notice, that unless the rake, +and all the other things, which had at different times been stolen, were +returned, the vessels should be burnt. The Captain had, indeed, no such +design, as will appear by the event. The menace produced no other effect +than the restitution of the rake, all the other things remaining in +their possession; at length the Captain thought proper to give up the +cargoes, as the innocent natives were in great distress for want of +them; and at last, to prevent confusion, from the difficulty of +ascertaining to whom the different lots belonged, he promised also to +release the canoes. + +About this time another event had nearly involved the English in a +quarrel with the Indians. The Captain having sent a boat on shore to get +ballast, the officer not meeting immediately with what he wanted, began +to pull down one of their sepulchral buildings: this measure was +strenuously opposed by the Indians. Mr. Banks, having received +intelligence of the affair, repaired to the spot, and the matter was +soon amicably terminated, there being stones sufficient found elsewhere. +This was the only opposition they had, hitherto, made, and the only +personal insult received (besides the affair of the musket at the tent, +for which the Indian forfeited his life) was by Mr. Monkhouse, who +having pulled a flower within one of their burial inclosures, was struck +by an Indian; the gentleman laid hold of him, but he was rescued by two +more, who pulling Mr. Monkhouse’s hair forced him to quit his hold, +after which they all ran off. + +On the 19th in the evening, soon after dark, while the canoes were +detained by the Captain, Oberea the Queen, and several of her +attendants, paid the gentlemen a visit; she came from Tootahah’s palace, +in a double canoe, and brought with her a hog, bread-fruit, and other +presents, among which was a dog; but none of the things that had been +stolen; those she pleaded had been taken away by her gallant Obadee, for +which she had beaten him. She did not, however, seem to think her story +deserved credit, but appeared at first much terrified, though she +surmounted her fears with great fortitude; and was desirous of sleeping +with her attendants in Mr. Bank’s tent; but this being refused, she was +obliged to pass the night in her canoe. The Captain declined accepting +of her presents, at which she seemed very sorrowful. Mr. Banks and the +rest of the gentlemen retired to bed, and a whole tribe of the Indians +would have slept in the bell-tent, but were not permitted. + +The next morning the Queen returned to the fort, and Captain Cook having +altered his mind accepted of her presents. Two of her attendants were +very earnest in getting themselves husbands, in which they succeeded, by +means of the Surgeon and one of the Lieutenants: they seemed very +agreeable till bed-time, and determined to lie in Mr. Banks’s tent, +which they accordingly did, till the Surgeon having some words with one +of them Mr. Banks thrust her out, and she was followed by the rest, +except Otea Tea, who cried for some time, till he turned her out also. +This had like to have become a serious affair, a duel being talked of +between Mr. Banks and Mr. Monkhouse, but it was happily avoided. Dogs +are esteemed here more delicate eating than pork; as those bred to be +eaten taste no animal food, but live entirely upon vegetables; and the +experiment was tried. Tupia undertook to kill and dress him, which he +did, by making a hole in the ground and baking him. It was agreed by +every one to be a very good dish. + +They were visited on the 21st at the fort by many of the natives, who +brought various kinds of presents, and among the rest Oamo, a Chief of +several districts on the island, whom they had never before seen, who +brought with him a hog. This Chief was treated with great respect by the +natives, and was accompanied by a boy, and a young woman. The boy was +carried upon a man’s back, though he was very able to walk. Oberea and +some other of the Indians went out of the fort to meet them, their heads +and bodies being first uncovered as low as the waist. This was +considered as a mark of respect, they had not noticed it before, but +judged it was usually shewn to persons of distinguished rank among them. +Oamo entered the tent, but the young woman, who was about sixteen, could +not be prevailed upon to accompany him, tho’ she seemed to combat with +her curiosity and inclination. Dr. Solander took the youth by the hand, +and conducted him in; but the natives without, who had prevented the +girl’s entrance, soon found means to get him out again. + +The curiosity of Mr. Banks and the other gentlemen being excited from +these circumstances, they made enquiry, who these strangers were, and +were informed, that Oamo was Oberea’s husband, but that by mutual +consent they had been for a considerable time separated; and that the +youth and girl were their offspring. The boy was named _Terridiri_, and +was heir apparent to the sovereignty of the island; and he was to +espouse his sister as soon as he had attained the proper age. The +present sovereign being a minor, called OUTOU, and son of Whappai; +Whappai, Oamo, and Tootahah, were all brothers; Whappai was the senior, +and Oamo the next; wherefore, Whappai having no child but Outou, +Terridiri, son of Oamo, was heir to the sovereignty. To us it will +appear singular, that a boy should reign during the life of his father; +but in the island of Otaheite, a boy succeeds to his father’s authority +and title as soon as he is born; when a regent is elected, which office +usually falls upon the father, till the boy becomes of age: at this +time, however, the election had fallen upon his uncle Tootahah, on +account of his warlike exploits. Oamo was very inquisitive with respect +to the English, and by his questions he appeared a man of understanding +and penetration. + +A woman called Teetee, who came from the west of the island, presented +to the Captain an elegant garment, of a bright yellow ground, bordered +with red, and in the middle of it were several crosses, which they had +probably learned from the French. + +On the 23d in the morning, one of their hands being missing, they +enquired for him among the natives, and were told that he was at Eparre, +Tootahah’s residence in the wood; and one of the Indians offered to +fetch him back, which he did that evening. On his return he informed +them, that he had been taken from the fort, and carried to the top of +the bay, by three men, who having stripped him, forced him into a canoe, +and conducted him to Eparre, where he received some cloaths from +Tootahah, who endeavoured to prevail on him to continue there. They had +great reason to suppose this account true, for the natives were no +sooner acquainted with his return, than they left the fort with much +precipitation. + +Monday June 26, early in the morning, the Captain set out in the +pinnace, accompanied by Mr. Banks, to circumnavigate the island. They +sailed to the eastward, and in the forenoon they went on shore, in a +part of the island under the government of Ahio, a young Chief, who had +often visited them at the tents. They also found here some other natives +of their acquaintance. They then proceeded together to the harbour, +wherein M. Bougainville lay when he visited this island, and were shewn +the ground on which he fixed his tent, and the watering-place. They also +met with _Orette_, a Chief, who was their particular friend, whose +brother went away with M. Bougainville. + +Having taken a survey of this harbour, and a large bay near which it is +situated, they proposed going to the opposite side of the bay, but +Titubaola, who was their conductor, not only refused to accompany them, +but endeavoured to dissuade the Captain and Mr. Banks from going, +saying, “That country was inhabited by people who were not subjects to +Tootahah, and who would destroy them all.” This information did not, +however, prevent the execution of their design; and upon loading their +pieces with ball, Titubaola took courage to go with them; they rowed +till it was dark, when they reached a narrow neck of land, that divided +the island into two peninsulas, which are distinct governments. As they +were not yet got into the hostile part of the country, they agreed to +spend the night on shore, where they were provided with supper and +lodging by Ooratooa, the lady who paid her compliments to Mr. Banks in +so remarkable a manner at the fort. + +In the morning they pursued their passage for the other government. + +They landed in a district, which was governed by a Chief, named +MARAITATA, the _burying place of men_, and his father was called +PAHAIREDE, _the stealer of boats_. Notwithstanding their names were so +ominous, they gave the Captain and Mr. Banks a very civil reception; +furnished them with provisions, and sold them a large hog for a hatchet. +The curiosity of the natives was soon excited, and a crowd gathered +round the English gentlemen, but they saw only two people whom they +knew, neither did they observe any trinkets that had come out of the +Endeavour, though they met with several European commodities, +particularly two twelve pound shot, one of which had the English broad +arrow upon it, though the Indians said they had them from M. +Bougainville’s people. They then advanced till they reached the +district, which was under the dominion of the principal Chief, or King, +named _Waheatua_, who had a son, but it was not known in whose hands the +sovereign power was lodged. Here they found a spacious verdant plain, +watered by a river of so great a width, that they were obliged to pass +it in a canoe, but their Indian followers swam over it with the greatest +facility. There was no house that appeared inhabited; but the ruins of +several large ones. Having continued their journey along the shore for a +considerable way, they at last saw the Chief, and with him an agreeable +young woman about two and twenty, named Toudidde. They were not +unacquainted with her name, as they had often heard it mentioned by the +natives; and they had great reason to suppose she was the Queen of this +peninsula. + +In passing through this part of the island, they found it better +cultivated, and more improved than any they had hitherto met with; +though the houses were but few, and those very small, but there were a +great number of canoes which excelled any they had seen, both in size +and workmanship. The burial places were likewise numerous, being found +not only at every point, but at different places in the interior parts +of the island. These buildings nearly resembled, in form, those which +they had seen at Opouroenu, but they were neater, and adorned with +carvings of various figures; in one there was a cock, which was painted +in imitation of the natural colour of the feathers of that bird. +Notwithstanding the fertility of the country, and its being well +cultivated, scarce any bread-fruit was to be met with, and the +inhabitants subsisted chiefly upon a nut, called _abee_. + +Finding themselves fatigued, they now took to their boat, and in the +evening landed on an island named Otooareite; being in want of some +refreshment, Mr. Banks went into the woods to try what he could obtain, +but it being dark, he met with no inhabitants and but one house, in +which he found only a bread-fruit, and a few of the nuts +before-mentioned; nor were they more successful in procuring provisions +the next morning. + +Towards the southermost part of the island they found a good harbour, +formed by a reef, and the circumjacent country is remarkably fruitful. +At about three miles distant they landed, at a place where they found +several of the natives, with whom they were intimately acquainted. After +having, with a good deal of difficulty, obtained some cocoa-nuts, they +again embarked. + +They landed again a little further to the east. Mathiabo, the Chief, +with whom they had no acquaintance, nor had ever seen before, soon came +to them, and supplied them with cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit. They also +purchased a hog of him for a glass bottle, which he took in preference +to every other thing that was offered him. They saw here a turkey cock +and a goose which the Dolphin left on the island, they were remarkably +fat, and seemed to be greatly admired by the Indians. + +A very uncommon sight presented itself in a house near this place, +several human jaw-bones were fastened to a board of a semicircular form; +they seemed fresh, and had not lost any of their teeth; but Mr. Banks +could obtain no explanation of this mystery. Upon their quitting the +place, the Chief accompanied them, and piloted them over the shoals. +They opened the bay in the evening, on the north-west side of the +island, which corresponded with that on the south-east, in such a +manner, as to intersect the island at the isthmus. + +Several canoes came off here with some very beautiful women, who +appeared to be desirous of their going on shore, to which they readily +assented. They met with a very friendly reception from the Chief, whose +name was Wiverou, who gave directions to some of his people to assist +them in dressing their provisions, which were now very plentiful, and +they supped at Wiverou’s house, in company with Mathiabo. Part of the +house was allotted for them to sleep in, and soon after supper they +retired to rest. Mathiabo having obtained a cloak from Mr. Banks, under +pretence of using it as a cover-let when he lay down, immediately made +off with it, unperceived by that gentleman or his companions. News +however of the robbery was soon brought them by one of the natives; in +consequence of which intelligence they sat out in pursuit of the thief, +but had proceeded a very little way before they were met by a person +bringing back the cloak, which Mathiabo had given up through fear. + +The house, upon their return, was entirely deserted, and about four in +the morning the centinel gave the alarm, that the boat was missing. Mr. +Banks and the Captain were greatly astonished at this account, and ran +to the water-side, but though the morning was clear and star-light, no +boat was visible. Their situation was now extremely terrifying: the +party consisting of but four, with a single musket and two pocket +pistols, without a spare ball or a charge of powder. After remaining in +this distressful state of anxiety for a considerable time, dreading the +advantage the Indians would take of it, to their great joy, the boat, +which had been driven away by the tide, returned; Mr. Banks and his +companions no sooner breakfasted than they departed. This place is +situated on the north side of Tiarrabou, the south-east peninsula of the +island, about five miles east from the isthmus, with a harbour equal to +any in the island. It was fertile and populous, and the inhabitants +every where behaved with civility. The last district in Tiarrabou, in +which they landed, was governed by a Chief, named Omoe. He was building +a house, and was very desirous of purchasing a hatchet, but Mr. Banks +and the Captain had not one left. He would not trade for nails, and they +embarked; the Chief following them in a canoe with his wife, in hopes of +obtaining something useful to him. The Chief and his wife were +afterwards taken on board, and after having gone about three miles, they +desired to be put on shore, and their request was complied with, when +the Captain met with some of Omoe’s people, who had brought with them a +very large hog. The Chief agreed to exchange the hog for a large axe and +a nail, and to bring the beast to the fort in Port Royal Bay. This +resolution he came to after consulting with his wife; and Mr. Banks +judged the exchange to be very advantageous to the English, as the hog +was a remarkable fine one. + +At this place they saw one of their Eatuas, or Gods, it was made of +wicker-work, and resembled the figure of a man; it was near seven feet +in height, and was covered with black and white feathers; on the head +were four protuberances, which the natives called _Tate ete_, or little +men. + +Having taken their leave of Omoe, they set out on their return; after +rowing a few miles, they went on shore again, but saw nothing remarkable +except a sepulchral building, which was ornamented in an extraordinary +manner. The pavement, on which was built a pyramid, was very neat; at a +little distance there was an image of stone, very uncouthly carved, +which the natives seemed to hold in a great estimation. + +They passed through the harbour, which was the only one fit for +shipping, on the south of Opoureonu, situated about five miles to the +westward of the isthmus, between two small islands not far from shore, +and within a mile of each other. They were now near the district, named +Paparra, which was governed by Oamo and Oberea, where they intended to +spend the night. Mr. Banks and his company landed about an hour before +it was dark, and found that they were both set out to pay them a visit +at the fort. They nevertheless slept at the house of Oberea, which, +though not large, was very neat; no inhabitant but her father was now in +possession of it, who shewed them much civility. They took this +opportunity of walking out to a point, upon which they had observed, at +a distance, some trees, called Etoa, which usually grow on the +burial-places of these people. They call these burying-grounds Morai, +which are also places of worship. They here saw an immense edifice, +which they found to be the Morai of Oamo and Oberea, which was by far +the most considerable piece of architecture to be found in the island. + +It consisted of an enormous pile of stone work, raised in the form of a +pyramid, with a flight of steps on each side, something after the manner +of those little buildings, which are commonly erected in England to +place the pillars of sun dials upon; it was near two hundred and seventy +feet long, and about one-third as wide, and between forty and fifty feet +high. + + [Illustration: _A Morai, or Burial Place._] + +The foundation consisted of rock-stones, the steps of coral, and the +upper part of round pebbles, all of the same shape and size; the rock +and coral-stones were squared with the utmost neatness and regularity, +and the whole building appeared as compact and firm, as if it had been +erected by the best workmen in Europe. As the Indians were totally +destitute of iron utensils to shape their stones, as well as mortar to +cement them, when they had made them fit for use, a structure of such +heighth and magnitude, must have been a work of infinite labour and +fatigue. + +In the center of the summit was the representation of a bird, carved in +wood; close to this was the figure of a fish; which was in stone. This +pyramid made part of one side of a wide court or square, the sides of +which were nearly equal; the whole was walled in, and paved with flat +stones. Within this place grew (notwithstanding it was in this manner +paved) several plantains, and trees which the natives call Etoa. At a +little distance to the west of this edifice was another paved square, +which contained several small stages, called by the natives Ewattas, +which appeared to be altars; upon them they place provisions, as +sacrifices to their gods: Mr. Banks afterwards observed whole hogs +placed upon these ewattas, or altars. + +The inhabitants of the island of Otaheite seem in nothing so desirous of +excelling each other as in the grandeur and magnificence of their +sepulchres; and the rank and authority of Oberea was forcibly evinced +upon this occasion. The gentlemen of the Endeavour, it has been +observed, did not find Oberea possessed of the same power, as when the +Dolphin was at this place, and they were now informed of the cause. The +way from her house to the Morai, was by the sea-side, and they observed, +in all places as they passed along, a great number of human bones. +Inquiry being made into the cause of this extraordinary sight, they were +informed, that about four or five months before Captain Cook’s arrival, +the inhabitants of Tiarrabou, the peninsula to the south-east, made a +descent here, and slew many of the people, whose bones were those that +were seen upon the coast: that hereupon Oberea and Oamo, who then held +the government for his son, had fled and taken refuge in the mountains; +and that the victors destroyed all the houses, and pillaged the country. +Mr. Banks was also informed, that the turkey and goose which he had seen +in the district of Mathiabo, were among the booty; this afforded a +reason for their being found where the Dolphin had little or no +correspondence; and the jaw-bones, being mentioned, which had been seen +hanging in a house, he was informed, that they had likewise been carried +off as trophies. The jaw-bones of their enemies being considered by the +natives of this island, as great a mark of triumph, as scalps are by the +Indians of North America. + +On Friday the 30th they arrived at Otahourou, where their old +acquaintance Tootahah resided; he received them with great civility, and +provided for them a good supper, and a convenient lodging; and +notwithstanding they were so shamefully plundered the last time, they +slept with this chief. They spent the night in the utmost security, none +of their cloaths, or any other article, being missing in the morning. + +On Saturday, July 1, they returned to the fort at Port Royal Harbour; +having discovered the island, both peninsulas included, to be about one +hundred miles in circumference. They were now very much in want of +bread-fruit, owing to the scarcity of the season, and could obtain but a +very small quantity upon their whole tour. + +Their Indian friends crouded about them upon their return, and none of +them came without provisions. + +Monday the 3d, Mr. Banks made an excursion, with some Indian guides, to +trace the river up the valley to its source, and observe to what extent +its banks were inhabited. After meeting with houses for the space of six +miles, they came up to one which was said to be the last that could be +seen. The master of it presented them with cocoa-nuts and other fruits; +and after a short visit, they continued their walk. In this tour they +often passed under vaults, formed by rocky fragments, in which, they +were informed, that those who were benighted often took refuge. They +pursued the course of the river for about five or six miles further, and +found it banked on both sides by rocks which were almost perpendicular, +and near one hundred feet high, notwithstanding which, a way was to be +traced up these dreadful precipices, and their Indian guides offered to +conduct them by this path to the summit; but as it could not be effected +without the utmost difficulty and danger, and there appeared nothing at +the top to recompence them for the fatigue and hazard of the +undertaking, they declined attempting it. + +Mr. Banks during this tour had a fine opportunity of searching for +minerals among the rocks, which were almost, on all sides, naked; he +found, however, not the smallest appearance of any kind of mineral. The +stones every where resembling those of Madeira, gave manifest signs of +having been burnt. Scarce a single stone was found during their whole +stay upon the island, which had not unquestionable marks of fire on it, +except the hatchet stone, and some of these were not entirely free from +it. There are also evident traces of fire in the clay upon the hills, +both of this and the neighbouring islands. + +Mr. Banks was engaged the 4th in planting on each side of the fort a +great quantity of the seeds of water-melons, oranges, lemons, limes, and +other plants and trees which he had brought from Rio de Janeiro. He gave +of these seeds to the Indians in great plenty, and planted many of them +in the woods: some of the melon-seeds, which had been planted soon after +his arrival, had already produced plants which appeared to be in a very +flourishing state. + +They now began to make preparations for their departure; but before they +set sail they had another visit from Oamo, Oberea, and their son and +daughter. The young woman, whose name they understood to be _Toimata_, +was very curious to see the fort, but Oamo would by no means permit her +to come in. The son of Waheatua, sovereign of Tiarrabou, or the +south-east peninsula, was also here at this time; and they received +intelligence of the arrival of another guest, whose company they neither +wished for nor expected; this was the Indian who had stolen the +quadrant. + +On Friday the 7th, the carpenters were ordered to take down the gates +and pallisadoes of the fort, to be converted into firewood on board the +Endeavour; and one of the Indians stole the staple and hook belonging to +the gate: he was instantly pursued; but could not be found; and soon +after this, their old friend Tubora Tumaida brought back the staple. + +They continued on the 8th and 9th to pull down the fort, and their +friends still visited them. + +Captain Cook hoped now to quit the island, without any farther +misunderstanding with the natives; but in this he was mistaken. Two +foreign sailors having been out, one of them was robbed of his knife, +and striving to recover it, the Indians attacked and wounded him in a +dangerous manner with a stone; his companion also received a slight +wound in the head. As Captain Cook would have been unwilling to have +taken farther notice of the transaction, he was not sorry that the +offenders had made their escape. Another affair equally disagreeable +soon after happened. Between the 8th and 9th in the evening; two young +marines retired secretly from the fort, and in the morning were not to +be met with. Notice having been given for all the company to go on board +the next day, and that the ship would sail that day or the day ensuing, +Captain Cook began to fear that the marines intended to remain on shore. +He was apprised, that no effectual steps could be taken to recover them, +without risking the harmony and good fellowship which at present +subsisted between the English and the natives; and therefore resolved to +wait a day in hopes of their returning. + +The 10th in the morning the marines not being returned, an enquiry was +made after them, when the Indians declared they did not propose +returning, having taken refuge in the mountains, where it was impossible +to discover them, and that each had taken a wife. In consequence of +which it was intimated to several of the Chiefs who were in the fort +with their women, among whom were Tubora Tumaida, Tomio and Oberea, that +they would not be suffered to quit it till the deserters were produced. +Captain Cook thought this precaution necessary, as, by concealing them a +short time, he might be compelled to go without them; they received the +intimation with very little signs either of fear or discontent, assuring +the Captain that the marines should be sent back. In the interim he sent +Mr. Hicks in the pinnace to bring Tootahah on board the ship, which he +executed without giving any alarm. Night coming on, Captain Cook judged +it was not prudent to let the people, whom he had detained as hostages, +remain at the fort, and he therefore ordered Tubora Tumaida, Oberea, and +some others, to be brought on board. This gave an unusual alarm, and +several of them, especially the females, testified their apprehensions +with great agitation of mind, and floods of tears, when they were coming +on board. Captain Cook went on board with them, Mr. Banks remaining on +shore with some others, whom he thought it of less importance to detain. + +One of the marines was brought back in the evening by some of the +Indians, who reported, that the other, and the two people who were sent +to fetch them back, would be detained whilst Tootahah was confined. Mr. +Hicks was immediately dispatched in the long-boat, with several men, to +rescue the English prisoners; at the same time Captain Cook told +Tootahah, that it was incumbent on him to assist them with some of his +people, and to give orders, in his name, that the men should be set at +liberty, for that he should expect him to answer for the event. Tootahah +immediately complied, and this party recovered the men without any +opposition. About seven in the morning on the 11th they returned, but +without the arms which had been taken from them when they were made +prisoners: the arms were however brought on board soon after, and the +Chiefs were allowed to return on shore. + +At the time the Chiefs were set on shore from the ship, those at the +fort were also released, and after remaining with Mr. Banks about an +hour and a half, they all returned to their respective places of +residence. When the deserters were examined, it was discovered, that the +account which the Indians had given was no way false: they had become +fond of two girls, and it was their design to keep themselves concealed +till the ship had let sail, and continue upon the island. + +Tupia, whose name has been often mentioned in this voyage, had been +prime minister of Oberea, when she was at the pinnacle of her authority: +he was also the principal priest of the island, and therefore intimately +acquainted with the religion of the country. He was likewise deeply +versed in navigation, and was thoroughly acquainted with the number, +situation, inhabitants and produce of the adjacent islands. He had often +testified a desire to go with them; and on Wednesday the 12th, in the +morning, he came on board, with a boy about twelve years of age, his +servant, named Taiyota, and requested the gentlemen on board, to let him +go with them. As it was thought he would be useful to them in many +particulars, they unanimously agreed to comply with his request. Tupia +then went ashore for the last time to see his friends, and took with him +several baubles to give them as parting tokens of remembrance. + +Mr. Banks being willing to obtain a drawing of the Morai, in possession +of Tootahah, at Eparre, Captain Cook accompanied him thither in the +pinnace, together with Dr. Solander. They immediately, upon landing, +repaired to Tootahah’s house, where they were met by Oberea, and several +others. A general good understanding prevailed, and they promised to +visit the gentlemen early the next day, to take leave of them, as they +were told that the ship would then set sail. There also they met Tupia, +who came back with them, and slept for the first time on board the ship. + +Thursday the 13th of July, the ship was visited by a multitude of the +gentlemen’s friends, and surrounded by numberless canoes, which +contained the inferior natives. They weighed anchor about twelve, and +the Indians took their leaves of the gentlemen on board, weeping in a +friendly and affecting manner. Tupia supported himself in this scene +with a becoming fortitude, tears flowed from his eyes, its true, but the +effort that he made to conceal them did him additional honour. He went +with Mr. Banks to the mast-head, where he continued waving his hand to +the canoes as long as they remained visible. + +The longitude of Port Royal Bay, as settled by Captain Wallis, was found +to be within half a degree of its real situation. Point Venus, the +northern extremity of the island, and the eastern point of the bay, lies +in the longitude 149 degrees 30 minutes. Port Royal Bay, which is equal +to any in Otaheite, may easily be discovered by a remarkable high +mountain in the center of the island, bearing due south from Point +Venus. The shore of the bay is a fine sandy beach, behind which runs a +river of fresh water; any number of ships may water here without any +inconvenience to each other. The only wood for firing, upon the whole +island, is that of fruit-trees, which must be purchased of the natives, +or it is impossible to live upon good terms with them. + +According to Tupia’s account, the island could furnish above six +thousand fighting men, whereby a computation of the number of +inhabitants may easily be made. + +The produce of Otaheite is bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, bananas, plantains; +a fruit not unlike an apple, potatoes, yams, cocoas, sugar-cane, and a +variety of other fruits and vegetables. + +They have no European fruits, garden stuff, or pulse, nor grain of any +species. Their tame animals are hogs, dogs, and poultry; there is not a +wild animal in the island, except ducks, pigeons, parroquets, and a few +other birds; rats being the only quadruped, and there are no serpents. +The sea however supplies them with great variety of excellent fish. + +With regard to the people, they are in general rather of a larger make +than Europeans. The males are tall, robust, and finely shaped. The +females of the superior class are likewise generally above our common +size; but those of the lower rank are rather below it, and some of them +are remarkably little. + +Their natural complexion is a fine clear olive, or what we call +_brunette_, their skin is delicately smooth and agreeably soft. The +shape of their faces is in general handsome, and their eyes are full of +sensibility and expression, their teeth are likewise remarkably white +and regular, and their breath intirely free from any disagreeable smell; +their hair is for the most part black. The men, unlike the original +inhabitants of America, have long beards, which they wear in various +forms; and what is very remarkable, circumcision is almost universally +practised among them, from a motive of cleanliness; having a peculiar +term of reproach, with which they upbraid those who do not adopt this +custom. Both sexes always eradicate the hair from their arm-pits, and +they often reproached the English gentlemen with a want of cleanliness, +for not making use of the same method. Their motions are easy and +graceful, but not vigorous; their deportment is generous and open, and +their behaviour affable and courteous. They appeared of a brave, noble, +and candid disposition; equally strangers to the base and unworthy +passions of cruelty, treachery, or revenge, and setting aside their +violent prepensity to thieving, it may fairly be said, that their +general characters would lose nothing in the comparison with those of +the most civilized nation under the globe. + +Contrary to the custom of almost all other countries, the women of this +island cut their hair quite short, whereas the men wear it long, +sometimes hanging loose on their shoulders, and at others tied in a knot +on the crown of their heads, in which they stick the feathers of birds +of various colours. + +Both sexes frequently wear a piece of cloth of the manufacture of the +island tied round their heads in the form of a turban; and the women +take no little pains in plaiting human hair into long strings, which +being folded into branches, are tied on their foreheads by way of +ornament. + +There is a custom likewise prevalent among them of anointing their heads +with an oil extracted from the cocoa-nut. The smell of which is not +altogether agreeable, as the climate is hot, and they are not provided +with any thing similar to a comb, their heads are not clear from vermin: +it evidently appeared, however, to be more the effect of necessity than +inclination, as those to whom they gave combs immediately got rid of +these disagreeable companions. + +They stain their bodies, by indenting or pricking the flesh with a small +instrument made of bone, cut into short teeth; which indentures they +fill with a dark blue or blackish mixture, prepared from the smoke of an +oily nut, burnt by them instead of candles and water; this operation, +which is called by the natives Tattaowing, is exceedingly painful, and +leaves an indelible mark on the skin. It is usually performed when they +are about ten or twelve years of age, and on different parts of the +body; but those which suffer most severely are the breech and the loins, +which are marked with arches, carried one above another a considerable +way up their backs. + +At the operation of _Tattaowing_, performed upon the posteriors of a +girl about twelve years of age, Mr. Banks was present, it was executed +with an instrument that had twenty teeth, and at each stroke, which was +repeated every moment, serum mixed with blood issued. She bore it with +great resolution for several minutes; but at length the pain became so +violent, that she murmured and complained, and then burst into the most +violent lamentations; but her operator was inexorable, whilst some +females present chid, and even beat her. Mr. Banks was a spectator for +near an hour, during which time it was performed only on one side, the +other having undergone the ceremony sometime before; and the arches upon +the loins, which are the most painful, but upon which they the most +pique themselves, were yet to be made. + +They cloath themselves in cloth and matting of various kinds; the first +they wear in fair, the latter in wet weather. They are in different +forms, no shape being preserved in them, nor are the pieces sewed +together. The women of a superior class wear three or four pieces; one, +which is of considerable length, they wrap several times round their +waists, and it falls down to the middle of the leg. Two or three other +short pieces, with a hole cut in the middle of each, are placed on one +another, and their heads coming through the holes, the long ends hang +before and behind, both sides being open, by which means they have the +free use of their arms. + + [Illustration: _A Woman & Boy, of the new discovered Islands, in the + Dress of the Country._] + +The mens dress is very similar, differing only in one instance, which is +that part of the garment instead of falling below the knees, is brought +between the legs. This dress is worn by all ranks of people, the only +distinction being quantity in the superior class. At noon both sexes +appear almost naked, wearing only the piece of cloth that is tied round +the waist. Their faces are shaded from the sun with small bonnets, made +of cocoa-nut leaves or matting which are constructed in a few minutes. +The men sometimes wear a sort of wig, made of human or dogs hair, or of +cocoa-nut strings, woven on a single thread, which is fastened under +their hair, and hangs down behind. Both men and women wear ear-rings on +one side, consisting of shells, stones, berries, or small pearls; but +they soon gave the preference to the beads, brought by the Endeavour’s +company. + +The boys and girls go quite naked; the first till they are seven or +eight years old; the latter till they are about five. Their houses, +which have been described already, they seldom use but to sleep in, or +to avoid the rain, as they eat in the open air, under the shade of a +tree. Their clothes serve them at night for covering, and there are no +divisions or apartments. The master and his wife repose in the middle, +then the married people; next to these the unmarried females, and at a +small distance the men who are unmarried; and the servants sleep in the +open air in fair weather. The houses of the Chiefs, however, differ in +some degree; there are some very small, and so built as to be carried in +canoes: all sides of them are inclosed with the leaves of the cocoa-nut; +the air, nevertheless, penetrates, in these the Chief and his wife alone +sleep. There are also houses which are general receptacles for the +inhabitants of a district. These are much larger, many being more than +two hundred feet in length, forty in breadth, and seventy or eighty feet +high. They are constructed at the common expence, and have an area on +one side surrounded with low pallisades; but like the others have no +walls. + +When a Chief kills a hog, which is but seldom, he divides it equally +among his vassals; dogs and fowls are more common. + +When the bread-fruit in not in season, they are supplied by cocoa-nuts, +bananas, plantains, &c. + +Their cookery consists chiefly of baking, the manner of doing which has +been already described. They bake their bread-fruit in the same way, +which renders it something like a mealy potatoe; of this fruit three +dishes are made, by beating it to a paste, and mixing it with bananas, +plantains, or the sour paste, which the natives nominate _Mahie_. + +This paste is made by taking bread-fruit, which is not thoroughly ripe, +and laying it in heaps, covered with leaves, by which means it ferments, +the core is then taken out, and the fruit put into a hole lined with +grass; it is then again covered with leaves, upon which large stones are +placed; this produces a second fermentation, after which it grows sour, +and undergoes no change for a long time; they take it from this hole as +they have occasion for it, and making it into balls, it is rolled up in +plantain-leaves and baked; as it will keep for some weeks after it is +dressed, they eat it both hot and cold. + +Such is the food of these people, their sauce to which never consists of +any thing but salt water. As to their drink, it is generally confined to +water, or the milk of the cocoa nuts, though there were instances in +which some of them drank so freely of the English liquors, as to become +quite intoxicated; this, however, seemed to proceed more from ignorance +than design, as they were never known to repeat a debauch of this kind a +second time. They were told indeed that the Chiefs sometimes became +inebriated by drinking the juice of a plant called _Ava_, but of this +they saw no instance during the time they remained on the island. + +The Chiefs generally eat alone, unless when visited by a stranger, who +is sometimes permitted to become a second in their mess; having nothing +to supply the want of a table; they sit on the ground in the shade; +leaves of trees being spread before them serve as a table-cloth; their +attendants, who are numerous, having placed a basket by the Chiefs, +containing their provisions, and a cocoa-nut shell of fresh and salt +water, seat themselves round them; they then begin by washing their +mouth and hands, after which they eat a mouthful of bread-fruit and +fish, dipt in salt water alternately, till the whole is consumed, taking +a sup of salt water likewise between almost every morsel. The +bread-fruit and fish being all eaten, they next have either plantains or +apples, which they never eat without being pared. During this time a +soft paste is prepared from the bread-fruit, which they sup out of a +cocoa-nut shell; this finishes the meal, and the hands and mouth are +again washed as at the beginning. + +It is astonishing how much food they eat at a meal; Mr. Banks and some +other gentlemen were present when one man devoured three fish the size +of a middling carp, four bread fruits as large as a common melon, +thirteen or fourteen plantains seven or eight inches long, and above +half as big round, and about a quart of the paste made of bread-fruit. + +It is not a little surprizing, that the inhabitants of this island, who +seemed exceedingly sensible of the pleasures of society, should have an +universal aversion to the least intercourse with each other at their +meals, and so rigid are they in the observance of this unusual custom, +that even brothers and sisters have their separate baskets to contain +their provisions, and generally sit some yards distance when they eat, +with their backs turned towards each other, not exchanging a single word +during the whole time of their repast; the middle aged of superior rank +usually betake themselves to sleep after dinner, but what is remarkable, +the older people are not so lazy; music, dancing, wrestling, and +shooting with the bow, or throwing a lance, constitute a chief part of +their diversions. + +Flutes which have been mentioned before, and drums, are the only musical +instruments among them; their drums are formed of a circular piece of +wood, hollow at one end only, which is covered with the skin of a shark, +and they are beaten with the hand instead of a stick. Their songs are +extempore, and frequently in rhime, but consist of only two lines; these +couplets are often sung by way of evening amusements, between sun-set +and bed-time, during which time they are not destitute of lights, having +candles which they make of an oily nut, fixing them one above another, +upon a small stick run through the middle; some of these candles burn a +long time, and afford a pretty good light. + +Among their other amusements, they have a dance named _Timorodee_, which +is performed by ten or a dozen young females, who put themselves into +the most wanton attitudes that can possibly be imagined, keeping time +during the performance with the greatest nicety and exactness, from +these dances the women are immediately excluded on their becoming +pregnant. + +Many of the principal people of this island, of each sex, have united +into an association, in which no woman confines her favours to any +particular man; in this manner they obtain a perpetual variety, no one +object ever gratifying them but a few days. + +These societies are named _Arreoy_, the members of which have meetings +where the men amuse themselves by wrestling; and notwithstanding the +frequent intercourse which the women have with a variety of men, they +dance the _Timorodee_ in such a manner, as they imagine will most excite +the desires of the male sex, and which are often gratified upon the +spot. There are yet much worse practices. In case any of the women prove +with child, which in this manner of life seldom happens, they destroy +the helpless infant as soon as it is brought into the world, that it may +not be a burden to the father, nor interrupt the mother in the pursuit +of her lascivious amusements. Natural affection, however, for the child +sometimes happily produces a reformation in the mother, but when this +happens, the child’s life is always forfeited, unless the mother can +procure a man to adopt it as his child, in which case this inhuman +murder is prevented, but both the man and woman are for ever expelled +this society. The woman being particularized by the appellation of +_Whannownow_, “bearer of children”, which among these people, is +considered as a term of the greatest reproach. + +Their personal cleanliness is an object that merits peculiar attention. +Both sexes never omit to wash with water three times a day; when they +rise, at noon, and before they go to rest. They also keep their cloaths +extremely clean; so that in the largest communities no disagreeable +effluvia ever arises, nor is there any other inconvenience than heat. + +The chief manufacture of Otaheite is cloth; of this cloth there are +three different sorts, which are made of the bark of as many different +trees, viz. the mulberry, the bread-fruit, and a tree not very unlike +the wild fig-tree, which is found in some parts of the West Indies. The +mulberry-tree, which the Indians call _Aouta_, produces the finest +cloth, which is seldom worn but by those of the first rank. The next +sort, which is worn by the lower class of people, is made of the +bread-fruit tree, and the coarsest of the tree resembling the fig-tree. +This last sort, though more useful than the two former on account of its +keeping out water, which neither of the others will, is exceedingly +scarce, being manufactured but in small quantities. + +The same method is used in manufacturing these three cloths, +notwithstanding they are all different; a description therefore of their +manner of making one, will suffice for the whole. + +Having stript off the bark of the trees, it is soaked in water for two +or three days, they then take it out and separate the inner bark from +the external coat, by scraping it with a shell, after which it is spread +out on plantain-leaves, placing two or three layers one over another, +and taking care to make it of an equal thickness in every part; it +continues in this state till it is nearly dry, when it adheres together +so firmly, that it may be taken from the ground without breaking. After +this process it is laid on a smooth board, and beaten with an instrument +made for that purpose, of a compact heavy wood, called by the natives +_Etoa_. This instrument is about fourteen inches long, and seven in +circumference; it is of a quadrangular shape, and each of the four sides +is marked with longitudinal grooves or furrows, differing in this +instance, that there is a regular gradation in the width and depth of +the grooves on each of the sides, the coarser side containing not more +than ten of these furrows, and the finest above sixty. + +They begin to beat their cloth with that side of the mallet where the +grooves are deepest and widest, and proceeding regularly with the +others, finish with that which has the greatest number; by this beating +it is extended in a manner similar to the gold which is formed into +leaves by the hammer, and is marked with an appearance of little +channels, not unlike those which are visible on paper, but rather +deeper; it is in general beat very thin, and when they want it thicker +than common, they take two or three pieces and paste them together with +a kind of glue, prepared from a root called _Pea_. + +This cloth becomes exceedingly white by bleaching, and is died of a red, +yellow, brown, or black colour: the first of which is exceedingly +beautiful, and equal, if not superior, to any in Europe. They make this +red colour from a mixture of the juices of two vegetables, neither of +which used separately has this effect. + +Matting of various kinds is another considerable manufacture, in which +they excel, in many respects, the Europeans. They make use of the +coarser sort to sleep on, and in wet weather they wear the finer. + +They greatly excel in the basket and wicker-work; both men and women +employ themselves at it, and can make it of a great number of different +patterns. + +They make ropes and lines of all sizes of the bark of the _poerou_, and +their nets for fishing are made of these lines: the fibres of the +cocoa-nut they make thread of, such as they use to fasten together the +several parts of their canoes; the forms of which are various, according +to the use to which they are applied. + +Their fishing-lines are esteemed the best in the world, made of the bark +of the _Erowa_, a kind of nettle which grows on the mountains; they are +strong enough to hold the heaviest and most vigorous fish, such as +bonetas and albicores; in short, they are extremely ingenious in every +expedient for taking all kinds of fish. + +The tools which these people make use of for building houses, +constructing canoes, hewing stone, and for felling, cleaving, carving +and polishing timber, consist of nothing more than an adze of stone, and +a chissel of bone, most commonly that of a man’s arm; and for a file or +polisher, they make use of a rasp of coral, and coral sand. + +The blades of their adzes are extremely tough, but not very hard; they +make them of various sizes, those for felling weigh six or seven pounds; +and others which are used for carving, only a few ounces; they are +obliged, every minute, to sharpen them on a stone, which is always kept +near them for that purpose. + +The most difficult task they meet with in the use of these tools, is the +felling of a tree, which employs a great number of hands for several +days together. + +The tree which is in general use is called _Avie_, the stem of which is +strait and tall. Some of their smaller boats are made of the bread-fruit +tree, which is wrought without much difficulty, being of a light spongy +nature. Instead of planes, they use their adzes with great dexterity. +Their canoes are all shaped with the hand, the Indians not being +acquainted with the method of warping a plank. + +They have two kinds of canoes, one they call _Ivahahs_, the other +_Pahies_; the former is used for short voyages at sea, and the latter +for longer ones. These boats do not differ either in shape or size; but +they are in no degree proportionate, being from sixty or seventy feet to +ten in length, and not more than the thirtieth part in breadth. Some are +employed in going from one island to another, and others used for +fishing. There is also the Ivahah, which serves for fighting; these are +by far the longest, and the head and stern are considerably raised above +the body. These Ivahahs are fastened together, side by side when they go +to sea, at the distance of a few feet, by strong wooden poles, which are +laid across them and joined to each side. A stage or platform is raised +on the fore-part about ten or twelve feet long; upon which stand the +fighting men, whose missile weapons are slings and spears. Beneath these +stages the rowers sit, who supply the place of those who are wounded. + +The fishing Ivahahs are from thirty or forty to ten feet in length; and +those for travelling have a small house fixed on board, which is +fastened upon the fore-part, for the better accommodation of persons of +rank, who occupy them both day and night. + +The Pahies differ also in size, being from sixty to seventy feet long, +they are likewise very narrow, and are sometimes used for fighting, but +chiefly for long voyages. In going from one island to another, they +sometimes are out a month, and often at sea a fortnight or twenty days, +and if they had convenience to stow more provisions, they could stay out +much longer. + +These vessels are very useful in landing, and putting off from the shore +in a surf; for by their great length and high sterns they landed dry, +when the Endeavour’s boats could scarcely land at all. + +They are very curious in the construction of these boats, the chief +parts or pieces whereof are formed separately without either saw, plane, +chissel, or any other iron tool, which renders their fabrication more +surprizing and worthy observation. + +These parts being prepared, the keel is fixed upon blocks, and the +planks are supported with props, till they are sewed or joined together +with strong plaited thongs, which are passed several times through holes +bored with a chissel of bone, such as they usually make use of; and when +finished, they are sufficiently tight without caulking. + +They keep these boats with great care in a kind of shed, built on +purpose to contain them. + +Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were at a loss to find out their method of +dividing time; they always made use of the term _Malama_, which +signifies moon, whenever they spoke of time, either past or to come; +they reckon thirteen of these moons, beginning again when they are +expired. This proves that they have some idea of the solar year; but +these gentlemen could not discover how they computed their months, so as +to make thirteen of them equal to the year; for the natives say, that +their month consists of twenty-nine days, one day, in which the moon is +invisible, being included. They knew the fruits that would be in season, +and even the prevailing weather of the months to come. + +They divide the day into twelve parts, each consisting of two hours, six +belonging to the day, and the other six to the night. They reckon from +one to ten when they numerate, making use of their fingers, and changing +hands till they come to the number which they intend to express, and in +conversation they joined signs to their words, which were remarkably +expressive of their meaning. + +They are not so expert in measuring distances, as in computing numbers; +for when they speak of the distance from one place to another, they are +obliged to express it by the time that would be taken to pass it. + +Their language is soft and musical, abounds with vowels, and is easy to +be pronounced. But whether it is copious, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander +were not sufficiently acquainted with it to know. As very few either of +their nouns or verbs are declinable, it must consequently be very +imperfect. They found means, however, to be mutually understood without +much difficulty. + +The following specimen will possibly enable the reader to form some idea +of their language. + + Teine, _a brother_. + Tooaheine, _a sister_. + Tane, _a husband_. + Aree, _a chief_. + Midee, _a child_. + Aheine, _a woman_. + Erowroo, _the head_. + Matau, _the eyes_. + Eahoo, _the nose_. + Meyoooo, _the nails_. + Huaheine, _a wife_. + Oowhau, _the thighs_. + Kipoo a meemhee, _a chamber-pot_. + Oorè dehaiya, _a large nail_. + Oorè eeteea, _a small nail_. + Pahiè, _a ship_. + Aihoo, _a garment_. + Parawei, _a shirt_. + Tumatau, _a bonnet_. + Poe, _ear-rings_. + Epanoo, _a drum_. + Toonoah, _a mole in the skin_. + Hooare, _spittle_. + Epeènei, _an eccho_. + Mahana, _a day_. + Poa, _a night_. + Otaowa, _yesterday_. + Aouna, _to day_. + Oboboa, _to-morrow_. + Tatta te Hàmannee Màitài, _a good-natured person_. + Amawhattoo, _a shrew_. + Epehe, _a song_. + Teà, _white_. + Marroowhai, _dry_. + Myty, _good_. + Porai, _to talk_. + Mutee, _to kiss_. + Eàwow, _to scold_. + Emòto, _to box_. + Eei, _to eat_. + Matte roah, _to die_. + Mayneenee, _to tickle_. + Itopa, _to fall_. + Ainao, _take care_. + Eeyo, _look you_. + Neeheeo, _good night_. + Waow, _I_. + Tooanahoe, _you and I_. + Wahaa, _fire_. + Avy, _water_. + +In respect to diseases, the natives are seldom afflicted with any, +except sometimes an accidental fit of the cholic. They are subject to +the erisypelas, attended with cutaneous eruptions, not unlike the +leprosy; and if they have had it for any time to a certain degree, they +are secluded from all society, and live alone in a small house, in some +unfrequented part of the island. + +Here the management of the sick falls to the lot of the priests, and +their method of cure consists chiefly of prayers and ceremonies, which +are repeated till the patients recover or die. If they recover, they +attribute the cure to these remedies; if they die, like the medical +tribe of this and every other country, they say the disease was +incurable. + +From their connection with the Europeans, they have entailed upon +themselves that dreadful curse, the venereal disease; which, upon +enquiry, evidently appeared to have been brought among them by the +vessels under the command of Mons. Bougainville. It was called by a name +somewhat similar, in meaning, to _rottenness_, but of a much stronger +import; and they gave a most shocking account of the sufferings of those +who were first infected with it; telling them, that their nails and hair +fell off, and the flesh even rotted from their bones: and so greatly +were they terrified at the dreadful effects of this alarming disease, +that the infected person was forsaken even by his own relations, and +left to perish by himself, in such a state of misery and pain as he had +never before experienced. + +The religion of these people appeared to be exceedingly mysterious; and +as the language used on the occasion was different from that spoken in +common, they were not able to obtain much information respecting it, but +from what little they could learn from their friend Tupia, these Indians +seemed to have adopted strange notions of the creation of the world; +imagining that every thing was derived from procreation, and the +conjunction of two persons. The supreme Deity, one of these two first +Beings, they call TAROATAIHETOOMOO; and the other, TEPAPA. The year +which is called TETTOWMATATAYO, is supposed to be the daughter of the +two first. They also imagine, that there is an inferior race of Deities, +whom they call EATUAS. They say, two of these Eatuas formerly inhabited +the earth, and that the first man descended from them. + +They emphatically stile the supreme Being, the _Causer of Earthquakes_; +but their prayers are more generally addressed to _Tane_, supposed to be +a son of the first progenitors of nature. + +They believe in the existence of the soul in a separate state, and that +there are two situations, differing in their degrees of happiness, which +they consider as receptacles for different ranks, but not as places of +reward and punishment; they suppose, that their Chiefs and principal +people will have the preference to those of inferior rank, as they +imagine their actions no way influence their future state, and that +their Deities take no cognizance of them whatsoever. + +The office of priest is hereditary; there are several of them, and of +all ranks; the Chief is respected next to their Kings, and they are +superior to the rest of the natives not only in point of divine +knowledge, but also in that of navigation and astronomy. + + [Illustration: _A Priest of the New Discovered Islands in the Habit of + his Order._ + _Tataowing Instruments._ + _Ornaments for the Ears_] + +The priests here are no way concerned with the ceremony of marriage, it +being a simple agreement between the man and woman; and when they chuse +to separate, it is done with as little ceremony as that of their +marriage. + +These people do not seem to be any way guilty of idolatry, as they +worship no kind of images whatever. They enter their morais with great +reverence and humility, and when they bring their offering to the altar, +their body is uncovered to the waist. + +There is a subordination among them, that much resembles the early state +of every nation in Europe under the feudal system, which secured, to a +small number, the most unrestrained liberty, while the rest were abject +slaves. + +Their ranks or orders are, _Earee rahie_, which signifies King; _Earee_, +Baron; _Manahouni_, Vassal; and _Toutou_, Villain. The Earee rahie, of +which there are two, one belonging to each of the peninsulas of which +this island consists, had great respect shewn them by all ranks. The +Earees are Lords of one or more of the districts, into which each of the +peninsulas is divided; and they separate their territories into lots, +which are given to the _Manahounies_, who respectively cultivate that +share which they hold under the baron. But they are only nominal +cultivators, this as well as all other laborious work being done by the +_Toutous_, or lower class of people. + +The Sovereign or Earee rahie, and the Baron or Earee, are succeeded in +titles and honours by their children as soon as they are born, the +fathers being immediately divested of them; but they remain possessors +and managers of their estates. + +In case of a general attack upon the island, every district, under the +command of an Earee, furnishes a proportionate number of fighting men +for the defence of the common cause, and they are commanded in chief by +the Earee rahie.--According to Tupia’s account, the number furnished by +the principal districts amounted to six thousand and upwards. + +Slings, with which they are very dextrous, pikes headed with stone, and +long clubs made of wood, remarkably hard and heavy, constitute their +weapons. With these they fight with great obstinacy and cruelty, giving +no quarter to either man, woman or child, if they fall into their hands +in time of battle. + +During the stay of the Endeavour, there was a perfect good understanding +between the Earee rahies of the two peninsulas, though the Earee rahie +of Tiarreboo, arrogated to himself the title of King of the whole +island; which the other considered, as it really was, a mere nominal +claim, and only a feather in his cap. There is nothing among them +substituted for money, or a general medium, by which every object may be +purchased or procured; neither can any permanent good be unlawfully +obtained by force or fraud; and the general commerce with women, sets +aside almost every excitement for committing adultery. In a word, in a +government so little polished, though distributive justice cannot be +regularly administered; as there can at the same time be but few crimes +for the exercise of it, the want of this justice is not so severely +felt, as it would be in more civilized societies. + +Thursday July the 13th, after leaving the island of Otaheite, they +sailed with a gentle breeze and clear weather; and were informed by +Tupia, that four islands, which he called Huaheine, Ulietea, Otaha, and +Bolabola, were at the distance of about one or two days sail, and that +hogs, fowls, and other refreshments, which had lately been scarce, were +to be got there in abundance. They accordingly steered their course in +search of these islands, and on Saturday the 15th, discovered the island +of Huaheine; and on the 16th, in the morning, they sounded near the +north-west part of the island, but found no bottom with seventy fathom. +Several canoes immediately put off, but they appeared fearful of coming +near the ship, till they saw Tupia, which totally removed their +apprehensions,and they ventured to come alongside, and upon assurances +of friendship, the King of Huaheine and his Queen went on board. +Astonishment was testified by their Majesties at every thing that was +shewn them; yet they made no researches, and appeared satisfied with +what was presented to their observation, making no enquiry after any +other objects, though it was reasonable to suppose, that a building of +such novelty and extent as the ship must have afforded many curiosities. +The King, whose name was _Oree_, made a proposal to exchange names with +Captain Cook, which was readily assented to. The custom of exchanging +names is very prevalent in this island, and is considered as a mark of +friendship. They found the people here nearly similar to those of +Otaheite in almost every circumstance, except, if Tupia might be +credited, they were not addicted to thieving. Having come to an anchor +in a small but fine harbour, on the west side of the island, Captain +Cook went ashore, accompanied by Mr. Banks and some other gentlemen, +with Tupia and the King. The instant they landed, Tupia uncovered +himself as low as his waist, and desired Mr. Monkhouse to follow his +example. Being seated, he now begun a speech, which lasted about twenty +minutes; the King, who stood opposite to him, answering in what seemed +to be set replies. During this discourse he delivered, at different +times, a handkerchief, a black silk neckcloth, some beads and plantains, +as presents to their Eatua, or Deity. He received in return for the +Eatua, of the English, a hog, some young plantains, and two bunches of +feathers, which were carried on board. These ceremonies were considered +as a kind of ratification of a treaty between the English and the King +of Huaheine. + +On the 17th they went again on shore, and walked up into the country, +the productions of which greatly resembled those of Otaheite; the rocks +and clay seemed, however, more burnt; the boat-houses were large, and +the other houses neat. The level part of the country affords the most +beautiful landscapes that the imagination can possibly form an idea of; +the soil is exceedingly fertile, and the shores are lined with fruit +trees of different kinds, particularly the cocoa-nut, which was seen in +great abundance. + +They also went on shore on the 18th without Tupia, but his boy, whose +name was Tayota, accompanied them, and Mr. Banks proposed taking a more +perfect view of a kind of chest, or ark, which he had before observed; +the lid of this ark was sewed on in a peculiar manner, and thatched with +palm-nut leaves. It was placed upon two poles, and sustained on small +carved arches of wood, the poles served to remove it from one place to +another, in the manner of a sedan chair; it is very surprising, that +this chest was of a form greatly resembling the ark of the Lord among +the Jews; but what was still more extraordinary, the boy informed them, +that it was called _Ewharre no Eatua_, _the house of the God_, but he +could give no account of its meaning or utility: with some difficulty +they negotiated for eleven pigs, and were not without hopes of obtaining +more the next morning. + +Wednesday the 19th, they carried some hatchets with them, with which +they procured three very large hogs. As they proposed to sail in the +afternoon, the King, accompanied by some others of the natives, came on +board to take his leave, when his Majesty received from Captain Cook a +small pewter plate, with the following inscription. “His Britannic +Majesty’s ship Endeavour, Lieutenant Cook Commander, 16 July, 1769.” He +also was presented with some medals, or counters, resembling the coin of +England, and a few other trifles. + +This island is situated in the latitude of 16 degrees 43 minutes south, +and longitude 150 degrees 52 minutes west; it is distant from Otaheite +about thirty leagues, and is about twenty miles in circumference. + +The productions of Huaheine, seem to be a month forwarder than those of +Otaheite, as they found by several of the fruits, &c. Mr. Banks met with +only a few new plants, but found a species of scorpion which he had not +seen before. + +The people are of a very lazy disposition, though they are stouter and +larger made than those of Otaheite. + +The women are much fairer than those of that island, and in general +exceedingly handsome: both men and women seemed less susceptible of +fear, and not so desirous of information. + +From Huaheine they sailed for the island of Ulietea, and in the +afternoon came within a league or two of the shore. The next morning, +being the 20th, by the direction of Tupia, they anchored in a bay, which +is formed by a reef, on the north side of the island; two canoes of +natives soon came off from the shore, and brought with them two small +hogs, which they exchanged for some nails and beads. The Captain, Mr. +Banks, and some other gentlemen, now went on shore, accompanied by +Tupia, who introduced them with the same kind of ceremonies that had +taken place on their landing at Huaheine; after which, Capt. Cook took +possession of this and the adjacent islands in the name of the King of +Great Britain. + +They then walked to a large Morai, which the natives called +_Tapodeboatea_; they found that it differed considerably from the Morais +of Otaheite, being composed of four walls, about eight or nine feet in +height, built of very large coral-stones, which surrounded an area about +thirty yards square: at a small distance they discovered an _Ewhatta_, +or altar, upon which, as an oblation, was placed a whole hog, about a +hundred pounds weight. At the front of this Morai, facing the sea, there +was a kind of amphitheatre. There were likewise three or four _Ewharee +no Eatua_, or houses of God, of the same kind as that which they saw at +Huaheine. + +On Friday the 21st, the Master was sent in the long-boat to inspect the +coast on the south part of the island, and a Lieutenant was dispatched +in the yawl, to sound the harbour where the Endeavour lay, while the +Captain went in the pinnace to take a view of the coast on the north +part of the island; in their return they saw a tree, of the same kind as +that seen by Mr. Green at Otaheite, the circumference of the trunk, or +rather congeries of the roots of which measured about forty yards. + +On the 22d and 23d it being hazy weather with brisk gales, Captain Cook +judged it rather unsafe to put to sea. On they 24th they got under sail, +and steered to the northward within the reef, towards an opening five or +six leagues distant; in effecting this, he was in the greatest danger of +striking on a rock; the man who sounded, crying out on a sudden, two +fathom, at which they were much alarmed, but happily got clear without +receiving any damage. + +The bay in which the Endeavour lay at anchor is called _Oopoa_; it is +large enough to contain a great number of shipping, and is secured from +the sea by a reef of rocks. It lies off the eastermost point of the +island, and may be distinguished by a low woody island which lies to the +south-east of it. + +The provisions of this island consist chiefly of cocoa-nuts, yams, +plantains, and a few hogs and fowls: that part of the country where they +landed is not so fruitful as either Otaheite or Huaheine. + +On the 25th they were within a league or two of the island of Otaha, but +the wind continuing contrary, they could not get near enough to land +till the 28th in the morning, when Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went in +the long-boat, with the Master, to sound a harbour on the east side of +the island, which they found safe and convenient, with good anchorage. +They then went on shore, and purchased some hogs and fowls, and a large +quantity of yams and plantains. + +This island appeared to be more barren than Ulietea, but the produce was +much the same. The natives paid them the compliment they used towards +their own Kings, by uncovering their shoulders, and wrapping their +cloaths round their bodies; taking care no one should omit doing the +same. + +On the 29th they made sail to the northward, and at eight o’clock next +morning they were close under the high craggy peak of the island of +Bolabola. The island was inaccessible in this part, and they found it +impossible to weather the south end of it till late at night. The next +morning, Sunday the 30th, they discovered an island, which Tupia called +Maurua, who said it was small, surrounded by a reef, and without any +commodious harbour, but inhabited, and yielded nearly the same produce +as the adjacent islands. In the middle is a high round hill, which may +be seen at eleven or twelve leagues distance. + +In the afternoon, finding themselves to windward of some harbours that +lay on the west side of Ulietea, they intended to put into one of them, +in order to stop a leak which they had sprung in the powder-room, and to +take in some additional ballast. The wind being right against them, they +plied on and off till the afternoon, of the 1st of August, when they +came to an anchor in the entrance of the channel which led into one of +the harbours. + +Wednesday 2, in the morning, when the tide turned, they came into a +proper place for mooring, in twenty-eight fathom. In the interim many of +the natives came off, and brought hogs, fowls, and plantains, which were +purchased upon very moderate terms. + +Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went on shore, and spent the day very +agreeably; the natives shewing them great respect. Being conducted to +the houses of the chief people, they were received in an uncommon +manner. Upon their entrance into a house, they found those who had ran +hastily before them, standing on each side of a long matt, spread upon +the ground, and the family sitting at the further end of it. In one +house they observed some very young girls, dressed in the neatest +manner, who kept their places, waiting for the strangers to accost them: +these girls were the most beautiful the gentlemen had ever seen. + +One of them, who was about seven or eight years old, was dressed in a +red gown, and her head was decorated with a great quantity of plaited +hair; this ornament is called _Tomou_, and is held in great estimation +among them. She was sitting at the upper end of one of their long mats, +on which none of the people present presumed to set a foot; and her head +was reclined on the arm of a decent looking woman, who appeared to be +her nurse; when Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander approached her, she stretched +out her hand to receive some beads, which they presented to her, with an +air of such dignity and gracefulness, as would have done honour to the +first princess in Europe. + +Before their departure they were entertained with a dance, different +from any they had seen before. The performer put upon his head a large +piece of wicker-work, about four feet long, of a cylindrical form, +covered with feathers, and edged round with shark’s teeth. Having this +head-dress on, which is called a _Whou_, he began to dance with a slow +motion, frequently moving his head, so as to describe a circle with the +top of his wicker cap, and sometimes throwing it so near the faces of +the bye-standers, as to make them jump back; this they considered as an +excellent piece of humour, and it always produced a hearty laugh, when +practiced upon any of the English gentlemen. + +On Thursday the 3d, as Mr. Banks and the Doctor were going along the +shore to the northward, with a design to purchase stock, they met with a +company of dancers, who retarded the progress of their excursion near +two hours, and afforded them much diversion. The company was composed of +six men and two women dancers, with three drums. They were informed, +that these dancers were some of the principal people of the island, and +though they were an itinerant troop, they did not, like the strolling +parties of Otaheite, receive any gratuity from the by-standers. The +women wore a considerable quantity of Tamou, or plaited hair, ornamented +with the flowers of the cape jessamine, which were stuck in with taste, +and made an elegant head dress. The womens necks, breasts and arms were +naked; the other parts of the body were covered with black cloth, which +was fastened close round them; and by the side of each breast, next the +arms, was a small plume of black feathers, worn like a nosegay. + + [Illustration: _Representation of a Dance in the Island of Ulietea._] + +Thus apparelled they advanced sideways, keeping time with great +exactness to the drums, which beat quick and loud; soon after, they +began to shake themselves in a very whimsical manner, and put their +bodies into a variety of strange postures, sometimes standing in a row +one behind another, sometimes sitting down, and at others falling with +their faces to the ground, and resting on their knees and elbows, moving +their fingers at the same time with a quickness scarcely to be credited. +The chief dexterity, however, of the dancers, as well as the amusement +of the spectators, consisted in the lasciviousness of their attitudes +and gestures, which decency forbids us to describe. + +Between the dances of the women, a kind of dramatic interlude was +performed by the men, consisting of dialogue as well as dancing; but for +want of a sufficient knowledge of their language, they could not learn +the subject of this interlude. + +Friday the 4th, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and some other gentlemen, were +present at a more regular dramatic entertainment. The performers, who +were all men, were divided into two parties, one dressed in brown, and +the other in white, by way of distinction. Tupia being present, informed +them, that the party in brown acted the parts of a master and his +servants, and the party in white a gang of thieves; the master having +produced a basket of meat, which he gave in charge to his servants; the +white party exhibited a variety of expedients, in endeavouring to steal +this basket, and the brown set as many in preventing the accomplishment +of their design. After some time had been spent in this manner, those to +whom the basket was entrusted, laying themselves down on the ground +round it, pretended to fall asleep; the other party availing themselves +of this opportunity, stole gently upon them, and carried off their +booty; the servants awaking soon after discovered their loss, but they +made no search after the basket, and began to dance with as much +alacrity as before. + +On Saturday the 5th, some hogs and fowls, and several large pieces of +cloth, many of them being fifty or sixty yards in length, together with +a quantity of plantains and cocoa-nuts, were sent to Captain Cook as a +present, from the Earee rahie of the island of Bolabola, accompanied +with a message, that he was then on the island, and intended waiting on +the Captain the next day. + +On Sunday the 6th, the King of Bolabola did not visit them agreeable to +his promise, his absence, however, was not in the least regretted, as he +sent three very agreeable young women to demand something in return for +his present. After dinner, they set out to pay the King a visit on +shore, as he did not think proper to come on board. As this man was the +Earee rahie of the Bolabola men, who had conquered this, and were the +dread of all the neighbouring islands, they were greatly disappointed, +instead of finding a vigorous, enterprising young Chief, to see a poor +feeble decrepid old dotard, half blind, and sinking under the weight of +age and infirmities. He received them without either that state or +ceremony which they had hitherto met with among the other Chiefs. + +On Wednesday the 9th, having stopped their leak, and taken on board +their fresh stock of provisions, they sailed out of the harbour. Tho’ +they were several leagues distant from the island of Bolabola, Tupia +earnestly entreated Captain Cook, that a shot might be fired towards it; +which, to gratify him, the Captain complied with. This was supposed to +have been intended by Tupia as a mark of his resentment against the +inhabitants of that place, as they had formerly taken from him large +possessions which he held in the island of Ulietea, of which island +Tupia was a native, and a subordinate Chief, but was driven out by these +people. + +They had great plenty of provisions, as well of hogs and fowls, as of +vegetables, during the time they continued in the neighbourhood of those +islands, so that they were not obliged to use any considerable quantity +of the ship’s provisions, and they had flattered themselves, that the +fowls and hogs would have supplied them with fresh provisions during the +course of their voyage to the southward; but in this they were unhappily +disappointed, for as the hogs could not be brought to eat any sort of +European grain, or any provender whatever that the ship afforded, they +were reduced to the disagreeable necessity of killing them immediately +on their leaving those islands; and the fowls all died of a disease in +their head, with which they were seized soon after they had been carried +on board. + +As they were detained longer at Ulietea in repairing the ship than they +expected, they did not go on shore at Bolabola; but, after giving the +general name of the _Society Islands_ to the islands of Huhaheine, +Ulietea, Bolabola, Otaha and Maurua, which lie between the latitude of +16 deg. 10 min. and 16 deg. 55 min. south, they pursued their course, +standing southwardly for an island, to which they were directed by +Tupia, at above an hundred leagues distant, which they discovered on +Sunday the 13th, and were informed by him, that it was called +_Ohiteroa_. The next morning they stood in for land, and saw several of +the inhabitants along the shore; one of the Lieutenants was now +dispatched in the pinnace, to sound for anchorage, and obtain what +intelligence he could of the natives, respecting any land that might lay +further to the south. Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia went also in +the boat, with the Lieutenant, when they came near the shore, they could +perceive that the inhabitants were armed with lances of a considerable +length. The appearance of the boat soon drew together a great number of +them upon the beech, two of whom leaped into the water, and endeavoured +to gain the boat, but she soon left them behind; several others made the +same attempt, but with as little success. + +The boat having doubled the point where they intended to land, opened a +large bay, and discovered another party of the natives standing at the +end of it, armed in the same manner as those they had already seen. The +boat’s crew now rowed towards the shore, and began to make preparations +for landing, upon which a canoe, with some of the natives on board, came +off towards them; they ordered Tupia to acquaint these people, that they +did not intend doing them any injury, but wanted to traffick with them +with nails, which they shewed them; this information encouraged them to +come along-side the boat, and they accepted of some nails, which were +given them with much apparent pleasure and satisfaction; it soon +appeared, however, to be nothing more than dissimulation; for, in a few +minutes, several of them unexpectedly boarded the boat, with an +intention of dragging her on shore; some musquets were immediately +discharged over their heads, which had the desired effect, all of them +leaping directly into the sea; and as soon as they reached the canoe, +they put back to the shore as fast as they could paddle, where a vast +concourse of their countrymen were assembled to receive them. They were +followed to the shore by the people in the boat, who found the surf so +violent, that they did not think it safe to attempt landing. They +therefore coasted along the shore, in hopes of finding a place where +they might land with less danger; presently after the canoe got on +shore, a man with a lance in his hand ran along opposite to the boat, +flourishing his weapon, and calling out with a shrill voice, which, upon +enquiry of Tupia, they were informed was a mark of defiance. + +Not being able to find a more convenient landing place, they returned, +with a design of attempting it at the place where the canoe went on +shore: as they were going back, the same mode of defiance was repeated +by another warrior of a more formidable appearance than the first; +having a high cap on, made of the tail feathers of a bird, and his body +painted with streaks of a variety of colours. When this man retired, +another advanced in years, with a grave and sedate countenance, made his +appearance upon the beach, and asked them several questions, such as +from whence they came, whither they were bound, and who they were. Tupia +having answered these questions, and repeated his assurances, that our +intentions were amicable, they appeared to be somewhat pacified. The +people in the boat now proposed going on shore, to trade with them for +such articles as they chose to dispose of, if they would quit their +weapons; but they would not agree to this proposal on any other terms, +than the English leaving their musquets behind them in the boat; with +this, however, prudence would not permit them to comply, especially as +they had so lately experienced the dissembling nature of these people. +They therefore gave over all hopes of establishing a friendly +intercourse with them, and returned to the ship. And as neither the bay +which the boat entered, nor any other part of the island afforded either +harbour or anchorage, the Captain did not think it worth while to +attempt a second landing. + +The people of this island are very tall, well proportioned, and have +long hair, which, like the inhabitants of the other islands, they tie in +a bunch on the top of their head; they are likewise tataowed on +different parts of their bodies, but not on their posteriors. + +This island does not shoot up into high peaks, like the others which +they visited, but is more level and uniform, and divided into small +hillocks, some of which are covered with groves of trees; they saw no +bread-fruit, and not many cocoa-nut trees, but great numbers of the tree +called Etoa, were planted all along the shore. + +Their cloth, as well as the manner of wearing it, differed in many +respects from any they had met with; all that they saw was died yellow, +and painted on the outside with a variety of colours. Their habit +consisted only of one piece with a hole made in the middle of it, thro’ +which they put their head; it reaches as low as their knees, and is tied +close round their bodies with a kind of yellow sash; some of them wear +caps of the same kind as that already mentioned, and others bind their +heads with a piece of cloth resembling a turban. + +On Tuesday, the 15th of August, they sailed from this island to the +Southward, with a fine breeze from the north, and clear pleasant +weather; and on the 16th it being rather hazy, they were deceived by an +appearance like several high peaks of land, for which they bore away, +but the weather clearing up, convinced them of their mistake, and they +resumed their course to the south. + +On Friday the 25th, they celebrated the anniversary of their leaving +England, from whence they had now been absent one year: a large Cheshire +cheese, which had been carefully preserved for that purpose, was brought +out, and a barrel of porter tapped, which proved to be as good as any +they had ever drank in England. On the 29th John Raden, the Boatswain’s +mate, died; this man’s death was occasioned by drinking too freely of +some rum which was given him by the Boatswain. On the 30th, about four +o’clock in the morning, they saw a large comet about 60 degrees above +the horizon. + +On Thursday the 7th of October, they discovered land at west by north, +and in the afternoon, of the next day, they came to an anchor opposite +the mouth of a little river about a mile and a half from the shore. The +Captain, with Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and some other gentlemen, +accompanied by a party of marines, went on shore in the evening, in the +pinnace and yawl. + +Having left the pinnace at the entrance of the river, Captain Cook, Mr. +Banks, &c. proceeded a little farther up, when they landed, and leaving +the yawl to the care of some of their boys, went up to a few small +houses which they saw at a little distance. Taking the advantage of +their absence from the boat, some of the natives, who had concealed +themselves behind the bushes, suddenly rushed out, and ran towards it, +brandishing the long wooden lances which they had in their hands in a +threatening manner. The boys perceiving them, instantly dropt down the +stream, but were very closely pursued by the Indians; the Cockswain of +the pinnace therefore fired a musquetoon over their heads, which did not +seem to intimidate them, as they still continued their pursuit; he then +fired a second time over their heads, but with no better effect; alarmed +at the situation of the boat, as they were now got near enough to +discharge their lances at it, the Cockswain levelled his piece at them, +and shot one man dead on the spot. Struck with astonishment at the fall +of their companion, the others stood motionless for some time, but as +soon as they recovered from their fright, retreated to the woods with +the utmost precipitation. The report of the gun soon brought the +advanced party back to the boats, and both the pinnace and yawl +immediately returned to the ship. + +On Monday the 9th in the morning, a great number of the natives were +seen near the place where the gentlemen in the yawl had landed the +preceding evening, and the greatest part of them appeared to be unarmed. +The long-boat, pinnace and yawl, being ordered out, and manned with +marines and sailors, Captain Cook, together with Mr. Banks, the rest of +the gentlemen and Tupia went on shore, and landed on the opposite side +of the river, over against several Indians who were sitting on the +ground; as soon as the gentlemen began to land, they immediately started +up, each producing either a long pike, or a kind of truncheon made of +stone, with a string through the handle of it, which they twisted round +their wrist. Tupia was ordered to speak to them in his language; and the +gentlemen were agreeably surprized to find that he was well understood, +the natives speaking the Otaheitean language, only in a different +dialect. Their intentions at first appeared to be very hostile, +brandishing their weapons in the usual threatening manner; upon which a +musquet was fired at some distance from them, at the effect of which the +ball happening to strike the water, they appeared rather terrified, and +desisted from their menaces. The marines being drawn up, the Captain, +with four or five of the gentlemen and Tupia, advanced nearer to the +side of the river; Tupia again spoke to them, and informed them, that +they wanted to traffick with them for provisions. They readily consented +to trade, and requested the English gentlemen to cross the river and +come over to them; which was agreed to, upon condition that the natives +would quit their weapons; but this the most solemn assurances of +friendship could not prevail on them to comply with. Not thinking it +prudent therefore to cross the river, as they would not be persuaded to +lay by their arms, the gentlemen in their turn intreated the Indians to +come over to them, which after some time they prevailed on one of them +to do; he was presently followed by several others, bringing their +weapons with them. They did not appear to set any great value on the +beads, iron, &c. which was presented to them, nor would they give any +thing in return, but proposed to exchange their weapons for those +belonging to the English, which being consequently objected to, they +endeavoured several times to snatch them out of their hands. But as the +gentlemen were on their guard, from the information given them by Tupia +that they were still their enemies, their attempts to seize the arms +were repeatedly frustrated, and Tupia, by the direction of the +gentlemen, gave them notice, that any further offer of violence would be +punished with instant death. One of them had, nevertheless, the audacity +to snatch Mr. Green’s hanger, and retiring a few paces, flourished it +over his head; he, however, paid for this temerity with his life, Mr. +Monkhouse firing at him with a musquet loaded with ball; and that +gentleman afterwards, with some difficulty, recovered the hanger, one of +the Indians endeavouring to seize it. + +This behaviour of the natives, added to the want of fresh water, induced +Captain Cook to continue his course round the head of the bay. He was +still in hopes of getting some of the Indians on board, and by presents, +added to civil usage, convey through them a favourable idea of the +English to their fellow countrymen; and thereby settle a good +correspondence with them. Soon after an event occured, though attended +with disagreeable circumstances, that promised to facilitate this +design. Two canoes appeared making towards land, and Captain Cook +proposed intercepting them with his boats. One of them got clear off, +but the Indians in the other finding it impossible to escape the boats, +began to attack them with their paddles: this compelled the Endeavour’s +people to fire upon them, when four of the Indians were killed, and the +other three, who were youths, jumped into the water, and endeavoured to +swim to shore: they were however taken up and brought on board. They +were at first greatly terrified, thinking they should be killed; but +Tupia, by repeated assurances of friendship, removed their fears, and +they afterwards eat very heartily of the ship’s provisions. When they +retired to rest, in the evening, they appeared perfectly easy in their +minds, and slept very quietly for some hours, but in the middle of the +night their fears again returned, and they appeared in great agitation, +frequently making loud and dismal groans. After some time, however, the +friendly promises and kind caresses of Tupia again prevailed over their +fears, and they became so calm and resigned as to sing a song, the tune +of which was solemn and slow, and, at the dead of night, when an +universal silence prevailed throughout the ship, had an awful and +pleasing effect. The next morning, after they were dressed and +ornamented, according to the mode of their country, with necklaces and +bracelets, Captain Cook proposed setting them on shore, that they might +give a favourable report to their countrymen of the reception they had +met with. They testified much satisfaction when told they were going to +be released: but seemed under great apprehensions of danger, at finding +the boat approach Captain Cook’s first landing-place, intimating, that +the inhabitants here were their foes, and that they always killed and +ate their enemies. The Captain, nevertheless, judged it expedient to +land near the same spot, which he accordingly did with Mr. Banks, Dr. +Solander and Tupia, resolving at the same time to protect the youths +from any injury that might be offered them. The gentlemen had not been +long on shore before the boys left them, but on seeing two large parties +of the Indians advancing hastily towards them, they returned, and again +put themselves under their protection. As the Indians drew nearer, one +of the boys discovered his uncle amongst them, and a conversation took +place between them across the river, in which the lad gave a very just +account of the hospitality he had met with, and took great pains to +display their cloaths and finery. Soon after the uncle swam across the +river, bringing with him a green bow, as a token of friendship, which +was received as such, and several presents were made him. The body of +the Indian, who was shot the day before, lay in the same place where he +fell: one of the boys had covered it with part of his cloaths; and after +the gentlemen had retired, the Indian performed a kind of ceremony over +it, by throwing a green branch towards it, and the body was afterwards +carried in a raft across the river. Notwithstanding the presence of the +uncle of one of the boys, all three of them, by their own desire, +returned to the ship, but as the Captain intended sailing the next +morning, he sent them on shore again in the evening, though much against +their inclination; the names of these boys were Taahourange, Koikerange +and Maragovete. They informed Captain Cook, that there was a particular +kind of deer upon the island, likewise taro, eapes, romara, yams, a kind +of long pepper, bald coote, and black birds. + +On the 11th Captain Cook set sail, in hopes of finding a better +anchoring place, after giving this bay (called by the natives Toaneora) +the name of _Poverty Bay_; and the south-west point he called _Young +Nick’s Head_, on account of its being first perceived by a lad on board +named Nicholas Young. They were becalmed in the afternoon, and several +canoes came off from the shore with Indians, who received many presents, +and afterwards bartered even their cloaths, and some of their paddles, +so eager were they of being possessed of as many European commodities as +possible. A single tree formed the bottom of their canoes, and the upper +part consisted of two planks sewed together: they sat on thwarts; their +paddles were painted red, representing many uncommon figures, and were +curiously wrought. + +They were armed with bludgeons made of wood, and of the bone of a large +animal; they called them _Patoo, Patoo_, and they were well contrived +for close fighting. + +After they had finished their traffic, they set off in such a hurry, +that they forgot three of their companions, who remained on board all +night. + +They testified their fears and apprehensions, notwithstanding Tupia took +great pains to convince them they were in no danger; and about seven the +next morning a canoe came off, with four Indians on board. It was at +first with difficulty the Indians in the ship could prevail on those in +the canoe to come near them; and it was not till after the former had +assured them that the English did not eat men, that they came along-side +the Endeavour. The Chief came on board, whose face was tataowed, with a +remarkable patoo patoo in his hand; and in this canoe the three Indians +left the ship. Captain Cook gave the name of _Cape Table_ to a point of +land about seven leagues to the south of Poverty Bay, its figure greatly +resembling a table; and the island, called by the natives _Teabowry_, he +named _Portland Island_, it being very similar to that of the same name +in the British Channel. It is joined to the main by a chain of rocks, +near a mile in length, partly above water. There are several shoals, +called shambles, about three miles to the north-east of Portland, one of +which the Endeavour narrowly escaped; there is, however, a passage +between them with 20 fathom water. Some parts of Portland Island, as +well as the Main, were cultivated; and pumice-stone in great quantities +lying along the shore, within the bay, indicated that there is a volcano +in the island. High pailings upon the ridges of hills were also visible +in two places, which were judged to be designed for religious purposes. + +On the 12th several Indians came off in a canoe; they were disfigured in +a strange manner, danced and sung, and appeared at times to be peaceably +inclined, and at others to menace hostilities; but, notwithstanding +Tupia strongly invited them to come on board, none of them would quit +the canoe. Whilst the Endeavour was getting clear of the shambles, five +canoes full of Indians came off, and seemed to threaten the people on +board, by brandishing their lances, and other hostile gestures; a four +pounder, loaded with grape shot, was therefore ordered to be fired, but +not pointed at them. This had the desired effect, and made them drop +a-stern. Two more canoes came off, whilst the Endeavour lay at anchor; +but the Indians on board behaved very peaceably and quiet, and received +several presents, but would not come on board. + +On Friday the 13th, in the morning, they made for an inlet, but finding +it not sheltered they stood out again, and were chaced by a canoe, +filled with Indians, but the Endeavour out-sailed them. She pursued her +course round the bay, but did not find an opening. + +The next morning they had a view of the inland country; it was +mountainous, and covered with snow in the interior parts, but the land +towards the sea was flat and uncultivated, and in may places there were +groves of high trees. Nine canoes full of Indians came from the shore, +and five of them, after having consulted together, pursued the +Endeavour, apparently with an hostile design. Tupia was desired to +acquaint them that immediate destruction would ensue, if they persevered +in their attempts; but words had no influence, and a four pounder, with +grape shot, was fired, to give them some notion of the arms of their +opponents. They were terrified at this kind of reasoning, and paddled +away faster than they came. Tupia then hailed the fugitives, and +acquainted them, that if they came in a peaceable manner, and left their +arms behind, no annoyance would be offered them: one of the canoes +submitting to these terms, came along side the ship, and received many +presents; but the other canoes returning, and persisting in the same +menacing behaviour, interrupted this friendly intercourse. + +The following day, Sunday the 15th, they were visited by some fishing +boats, the people in which conducted themselves in an amicable manner; +though the fish which they had on board had been caught so long that +they were not eatable, Captain Cook purchased them, merely for the sake +of promoting a traffick with the natives. In the afternoon a large +canoe, with a number of armed Indians, came up, and one of them who was +remarkably cloathed, with a black skin, found means to defraud the +Captain of a piece of red baize, under pretence of bartering the skin he +had on for it. As soon as he had got the baize into his possession, +instead of giving the skin in return agreeable to his bargain, he rolled +them up together, and ordered the canoe to put off from the ship, +turning a deaf ear to the repeated remonstrances of the Captain against +his unjust behaviour. After a short time this canoe, together with the +fishing boats which had put off at the same time, came back to the ship, +and trade was again begun. During this second traffick with the Indians, +one of them unexpectedly seized Tupia’s little boy Tayota, and pulling +him into his canoe instantly put her off, and paddled away with the +utmost speed; several musquets were immediately discharged at the people +in the canoe, and one of them receiving a wound they all let go the boy, +who before was held down in the bottom of the canoe. Tayota taking the +advantage of their consternation, immediately jumped into the sea, and +swam back towards the Endeavour, he was taken on board, without having +received any harm; but his strength was so much exhausted with the +weight of his cloaths, that it was with great difficulty he reached the +ship. In consequence of this attempt to carry off Tayota, Captain Cook +called the Cape off which it happened _Cape Kidnappers_, lying in +latitude 39 deg. 43 min. and longitude 182 deg. 24 min. west, and is +very distinguishable by high cliffs and white rocks, that surround it. +Its distance from Portland Island is about 13 leagues, forming the south +point of a bay, which the Captain named _Hawke’s Bay_, in honour of Sir +Edward, who then presided at the admiralty board. + +As every circumstance that tends to elucidate the manners and customs of +these people must attract the attention of the curious reader, we cannot +omit Tayota’s behaviour upon recovering from his fright, occasioned by +his being kidnapped. He produced a fish, and acquainted Tupia, that he +designed to make an offering of it to his God, or Eatua, as a +testimonial of his gratitude for his deliverance. Tupia approved of his +intention, and by his direction the fish was cast into the sea. This is +an evident proof, that even these unenlightened savages, by the mere +impulse of nature, believe in the existence of a particular providence. + +The Endeavour now passed a small island, white and high, supposed to be +inhabited only by fishermen, as it appeared quite barren, and was named +_Bare Island_. On the 17th Captain Cook gave the name of Cape _Turn +Again_ to a head-land, in latitude 40 deg. 34 min. S. longitude, 182 +deg. 55 min. west, because the Endeavour here turned again. Before the +Endeavour touched at New Zealand, it was not certainly known whether it +was an island, or part of the continent, wherefore the lords of the +admiralty had, by their instructions, directed Captain Cook to sail +along the coasts as far as 40 degrees south latitude, and from thence, +if the land appeared to extend farther, to return again to the +northward. Agreeable to these instructions, the Captain being opposite +to Cape _Turn Again_, changed his course from south to north; and the +wind having likewise veered to the south, he returned nearly in his +former track, sailing along the coast. This Cape is remarkable for a +stratum of clay of a bright brown colour; its prominence gradually +diminishes towards the north-side, but to the south its descent is not +so regular. + +The land between this Cape and Kidnapper’s Bay is unequal, and resembles +the high downs of England. There appeared numerous inhabitants, and +several villages. Wednesday the 18th the Endeavour came a-breast of a +peninsula in Portland Island, named _Terakako_, when a canoe, with five +Indians, came up to the ship. Two Chiefs who were in this canoe came on +board, where they remained all night, and were treated with great +civility. One of the Chiefs was a remarkable comely man, and his +countenance was open and prepossessing. Their curiosity was uncommon, +and their acknowledgments, for the trifling presents they received, were +extremely grateful. The Chiefs would neither eat nor drink, but the +servants made up for their masters abstinence, by their voracious +appetites. The three boys had given these natives an account of the +hospitality and liberality of the English, which had prevailed upon them +to pay this visit. + +Thursday the 19th the Endeavour passed a remarkable head land, which +Captain Cook named _Gable End Foreland_. It is distinguished by a rock, +in the shape of a church spire, which is very near it. Here three canoes +came up, and one Indian came on board; he received some small presents, +and retired to his companions. He wore a new garment of white silky +flax, with a border of black, red and white. + +Many of the Indians had pieces of green-stone round their necks, by way +of necklaces; they were transparent, like an emerald, and appeared, on +examination, to be a species of Nephritic-stone, of which all their +ornaments of this kind consisted. Mr. Banks and the other gentlemen +obtained several pieces of it. + +The dialect of these Indians was not so guttural as that of the others, +and they spoke the most like the inhabitants of Otaheite. The +physiognomy of some was agreeable, their noses being rather prominent +than flat. + +On the 20th they anchored in a bay, about two leagues to the north of +the Foreland. The natives in canoes invited them hither, and behaved +very amicably. There appeared to be two Chiefs, who came on board: they +received presents of linen, which gave them much satisfaction; but they +did not hold spike-nails in such estimation as the inhabitants of some +of the islands. They were dressed in jackets, the one ornamented with +tufts of red feathers, the other with dog’s skin. The other Indians in +the canoes traded with the Endeavour’s people, without attempting any +imposition; and towards the evening the Chiefs returned. The Captain, +Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander, now went on shore, and were courteously +received by the inhabitants, who did not appear in numerous bodies, to +avoid giving offence. They received several trifling presents, and the +Captain had the pleasure to find fresh water, in the course of a tour +round the bay. They remained on shore all night, and next day Mr. Banks +and the Doctor discovered several plants, and many beautiful birds, +particularly quails and large pigeons. There were some houses with +fences, to shelter them from the wind, and many stages for drying fish +near the place where the gentlemen landed. Dogs with small pointed ears, +and very ugly, were the only tame animals among them. At the +watering-place the Captain ordered a line to be drawn, and enjoined the +natives not to pass it, which injunction they civilly complied with. +Many houses were contiguous, and the lands in the adjacent vallies were +regular flats, neatly laid out in small plantations, the ground +appearing to be broken, as if designed for gardens. They have sweet +potatoes, like those of North America, in great quantities; and the +cloth plant grows here spontaneously. There is plenty of fish in the +bay, such as crabs, cray-fish, and ship-jacks or horse mackrel, which +are larger than those upon our coasts. The number of supple jacks that +grow in the adjacent woods, render them almost impassable; but they +thereby afford shelter to their feathered inhabitants: the flat land was +planted with cocos, and the hollow parts with gourds. Mr. Banks and Dr. +Solander visited several of the natives houses, and they met with a very +civil reception. Fish constituted their principal food at this time, and +the root of a sort of fern served them for bread, which when roasted +upon a fire, and divested of its bark, was sweet and clammy; in taste +not disagreeable, but unpleasant from its number of fibres. Vegetables +were, doubtless, at other seasons very plentiful. The women paint their +faces red, which so far from increasing, diminishes the very little +beauty they have. The mens faces were not in general painted, but some +were rubbed over with red ocre from head to foot, their apparel not +excepted. Though they could not be compared to the inhabitants of +Otaheite for cleanliness in general, they surpassed them in this respect +in some particulars. Every dwelling was supplied with a privy, and they +had dunghills for depositing dirt and filth. The women wore a girdle +made of the blade of grass under a petticoat, and to this girdle was +tied in front a bunch of fragrant leaves. They seemed to hold chastity +in but little estimation, many of the young females resorting to the +watering-place, where they bountifully bestowed every favour that was +requested. One of the officers on shore, meeting with an elderly woman, +he accompanied her to her house, and having presented her with some +cloth and beads, a young girl was singled out, and he was given to +understand he might retire with her. Soon after an elderly man, with two +women, came in as visitors, and with much formality saluted all the +company, according to the custom of the place, which is by gently +joining the tips of their noses together. The officer upon his return +was furnished with a guide, who led him a much better road than that he +had come, and whenever they came to a brook or rivulet, the Indian took +him upon his back to preserve him from being wet; several of the +inhabitants were curiously tataowed, and one old man, in particular, was +marked on the breast with various figures. There was an axe made of the +green stone, already mentioned, which could not be purchased, though +many things were offered in exchange. At night they danced in a very +uncouth manner, making antick gestures, lolling out their tongues, with +other strange grimaces; and in these dances old men with grey beards +were, as well as the young ones, capital performers. They carried their +civility so far, as to assist Mr. Banks and his company with one of +their canoes to carry them on board; but the Endeavour’s people being +unacquainted with the method of steering such a vessel, she was overset, +but no one was drowned; and they reached the ship without any farther +accident, some of the Indians having voluntarily engaged to conduct her. +During the stay of the gentlemen on shore, many of the natives went off +in their canoes, and trafficked with the ship’s company, preferring at +first the cloth of Otaheite to that of Europe; but it soon diminished in +its value. Several of the Indians went on board, and testified their +curiosity and surprise, with regard to the different parts of the ship. + +Sunday 22, in the evening, they sailed from this bay, which by the +natives is called _Tegadoo_, and lies in latitude 38 deg. 10 min. south. +The wind being contrary, they put into another bay a little to the +south, called by the natives _Tolaga_, in order to complete their wood +and water, and extend their correspondence with the natives; in this bay +they came to an anchor in about eleven fathom water, with a good sandy +bottom. Several canoes appeared, with Indians on board, and they +trafficked very fairly for glass bottles and cloth. The Captain, Mr. +Banks, and the Doctor, went in the afternoon to examine the water, and +found it extremely good; here was also plenty of wood, and the natives +behaved with as much civility as those they had just departed from. + +On the 24th, Mr. Gore and the marines were sent on shore, to guard the +people employed in cutting wood and filling water. Captain Cook, Mr. +Banks and the Doctor also went on shore; the two latter employed +themselves in collecting plants. In their route they found in the vales +many houses uninhabited, the natives residing chiefly in slight sheds, +on the ridges of the hills, which are very steep. In a valley between +two very high hills they saw a curious rock, that formed a large arch, +opposite to the sea; this cavity was in length above seventy feet, in +breadth thirty, and near fifty in height; it commanded a view of the +hills and the bay, which had a very happy effect. Indeed, the whole +country about the bay is agreeable beyond description, and if properly +cultivated would be a most fertile spot. The hills are covered with +beautiful flowering shrubs, intermixed with a great number of tall and +stately palms, which perfume the air, and make it most agreeably +odoriferous. Mr. Banks and the Doctor found the tree that produces the +cabbage, which, when boiled, was very good; and some other trees that +yielded a fine transparent gum. Between the hills were fruitful +villages, that might have been successfully cultivated, or turned into +pasturage. Various kinds of edible herbage, were met with in great +abundance, and there was reason to believe there were many trees that +produced fruit fit to eat, some of which the gentlemen examined. The +plant, from which the cloth is made, is a kind of Hemerocallis, the +leaves of which afford a strong glossy flax, equally adapted to +cloathing, as making of ropes. There are sweet potatoes and yam +plantations near their houses, which are carefully cultivated. These +gentlemen, upon their return, met an old man, who entertained them with +the military exercises of the natives, which are performed with the +_Patoo Patoo_, and the lance. The former has already been mentioned, and +is used as a battle-axe; the latter is ten or twelve feet in length, +made of extreme hard wood, and sharpened at each end. A stake was +substituted for their old warriors supposed enemy; he first attacked him +with his lance, when, having pierced him, the Patoo Patoo was used to +demolish his head, and the force with which he struck would at one blow +have split any man’s skull. This mode of fighting induced the gentlemen +to believe no quarter was ever given here in war. The natives in this +part are not very numerous; they are tolerably well shaped, but lean and +tall; their faces resemble those of Europeans; their noses are aqueline; +their eyes dark coloured; their hair is black, which is tied up on the +top of their heads, and their beards are of a moderate length. Their +tataowing is done very curiously in various figures, which makes their +skin resemble carving; it is confined to the principal men, the females +and servants using only red paint, with which they daub their faces, +that otherwise would not be disagreeable. Their cloth is white, glossy +and very even; it is worn principally by the men, though it is wrought +by the women, who, indeed, are condemned to all the drudgery and labour. + + [Illustration: _View of a perforated Rock in Tolago Bay_] + + [Illustration: _The Head of a new Zealand Chief curiously Tataowed._] + +On the 25th an armourer’s forge was set up on shore for necessary uses. +Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went again in search of plants. Tupia, who +was with them engaged in a conversation with one of the priests, and +they seemed to agree in their opinions upon the subject of religion. +Tupia, in the course of this conference, enquired, whether the report of +their eating men was founded in truth; to which the priest replied it +was, but that they ate none but declared foes, after they were killed in +war. This idea is, however, horrid and barbarous, and proves that they +carry their resentment even beyond death. + +Captain Cook and Dr. Solander went on the 27th to inspect the bay, when +the Doctor was not a little surprised to find the natives in the +possession of a boy’s top, which they knew how to spin by whipping it, +and he purchased it out of curiosity. Mr. Banks was during this time +employed in attaining the summit of a steep hill, that had previously +engaged their attention; and near it he found many uninhabited houses. +Here were two rows of poles about fourteen or fifteen feet high, covered +over with sticks, which made an avenue of about five feet in width, +extending near a hundred yards down the hill in an irregular line: the +intent of this erection was not discovered. When the gentlemen met at +the watering-place, the Indians, by desire, sung their war song, which +was a strange medley of shouting, sighing and grimace, at which the +women assisted. The next day Captain Cook and the other gentlemen went +upon an island at the entrance of the bay, and met with a canoe that was +sixty seven feet in length, six in breadth, and four in height; her +bottom, which was sharp, consisted of three trunks of trees, and the +sides and head were curiously carved. There was a large unfinished house +upon this island; the posts which supported it were ornamented with +carvings, that did not appear to be done upon the spot; and as the +inhabitants seem to set a great value upon works of this kind, future +navigators might find their advantage in carrying such articles to trade +with. Though the posts of this house were judged to be brought here, the +people have certainly a taste for carving, as their boats, paddles, and +tops of walking-sticks evince. Their favourite figure is a volute or +spiral, which is sometimes single, double and triple, and is done with +great exactness, though the only instruments the gentlemen saw were an +axe made of stone, and a chissel. Their taste, however, must be +acknowledged whimsical and extravagant, scarce ever imitating nature. + +Their huts are built under trees; their form is an oblong square: the +door is low on the side, and the windows are at the ends; reeds, covered +with thatch, compose the walls; the beams of the eaves, which come to +the ground, are covered with thatch; most of the houses the gentlemen +saw had been deserted, through fear of the English upon their landing. +There are many beautiful parrots, and great numbers of birds of +different kinds, particularly one whose note resembled the European +black bird; but here is no ground fowl or poultry; nor were there any +quadrupeds, except rats and dogs, and these were not numerous. The dogs +are considered as delicate food, and their skins serve for ornaments to +their apparel. There is a great variety of fish in the bay: shell and +crayfish is very plentiful; some of the latter weigh near a dozen +pounds. + +Sunday, Oct 29, they set sail from this bay, which is called by the +natives _Tolaga_. It is seated in latitude 38 deg. 22 min. south, four +leagues to the north of Gable end Foreland: there are two high rocks at +the entrance of the bay, which form a cove very convenient for procuring +wood and water. There is a high rocky island off the north point of the +bay, which affords good anchorage, having a fine sandy bottom, and from +seven to thirteen fathom water, and is likewise sheltered from all but +the north-east wind. + +Captain Cook obtained nothing here in trade but some sweet potatoes, and +a little fish. This is a very hilly country, though it presents the eye +with an agreeable verdure, various woods, and many small plantations. +Mr. Banks met with a great number of trees in the woods, quite unknown +to Europeans; the firewood resembled the maple tree, and produced a gum +of whitish colour; other trees yielded a gum of deep yellow green. The +only roots they met with were yams and sweet potatoes, though the soil +appears very proper for producing every species of vegetables. + +Sailing to the northward, they fell in with a small island, about a mile +distant from the north-east point of the main; and this being the most +eastern part of it, the Captain named it EAST CAPE, and the island EAST +ISLAND: it was but small, and appeared barren. The cape is in latitude +37 degrees 42 minutes 30 seconds south. There are many small bays from +Tolaga Bay to East Cape. When the Endeavour had doubled the cape, many +villages presented themselves to view, and the adjacent land appeared +cultivated. In the evening of the 30th, Lieutenant Hicks discovered a +bay, to which his name was given. Next morning, about nine, several +canoes came off from shore with a number of armed men, who appeared to +have hostile intentions. Before these had reached the ship, another +canoe, larger than any that had yet been seen, full of armed Indians +came off, and made towards the Endeavour with great expedition. The +Captain now judging it expedient to prevent, if possible, their +attacking him, ordered a gun to be fired over their heads; this not +producing the desired effect, another gun was fired with ball, which +threw them into such consternation, that they immediately returned much +faster than they came. This precipitate retreat, induced the Captain to +give the cape, off which it happened, the name of CAPE RUNAWAY, which +lies in latitude 37 degrees 32 minutes, longitude 181 degrees 48 +minutes. Next morning, at day break, they saw between forty and fifty +canoes along shore, many of which came off in the manner they had done +the day before, shouting, and menacing an attack. One of their Chiefs in +the largest of the canoes made several harangues, and by the menacing +flourish of his pike, seemed to bid the ship defiance; but the gentlemen +continuing to invite them to trade, they at last came close along-side, +and the Chief who had been declaiming, after uttering a sentence, took +up a stone and threw it against the side of the ship, which appeared to +be a declaration of hostilities, as they instantly seized their arms; +Tupia told them, that immediate destruction would ensue, if they +persevered in their design, and at the same time assured them of the +gentlemens pacific intentions, and that they only wanted to traffick +with them. Neither his threats nor persuasions would probably have had +any effect, had he not at the same time shewn them some pieces of cloth, +which attracted their eye, and brought them to reason. The gentlemen now +purchased a great quantity of cray-fish, muscles and conger-eels. These +Indians did not attempt any fraud in their trading; but some others, who +succeeded them, took the goods from the ship without making proper +returns: one of them, who had been particularly culpable, and seemed to +pride himself upon his cunning, putting off with his canoe, was brought +back by a musquet being fired over his head, and this presently produced +good order. But when the sailors began to traffick with the Indians, +they renewed their former fraudulent practices, with great insolence. +One of them seized some linen that was hanging to dry, and made off with +it; a musquet was fired over his head to make him return, but this did +not prevail, and even after another was fired at him with small shot, +which hit him in the back, he still persevered in his design. Upon this +the rest of the Indians dropt a-stern at some distance, and set up their +song of defiance. They did not, however, make any preparations for +attacking the ship; but the Captain judged, that if he suffered them to +go off without convincing them of his power of avenging the insult, it +might give an unfavourable opinion of the English, to the natives on +shore. He accordingly fired a four pounder, which passed over them, and +the effect it had in the water terrified them so greatly, that they made +to shore with the utmost precipitancy. In the afternoon they descried a +high island to the west, and some time after perceived some other +islands and rocks in the same quarter; not being able to weather them +before night came on, they bore up between them and the main-land. About +seven in the evening a double canoe, built like those at Otaheite, but +carved after their peculiar manner, came up to the ship, and Tupia +entered into a friendly conversation with the Indians on board; when, on +a sudden, it being now dark, they pelted the ship with stones, and then +retreated. Tupia was told by the Indians in the canoe, that the island +close to which the Endeavour lay, was called _Mowtohera_; it was but a +few miles from the main-land, of no great extent, but pretty high. They +saw a high round mountain, south-west by west of _Mowtohera_, which the +Captain named MOUNT EDGECOMBE. + +The next morning, November 2, many canoes made their appearance, and +one, which proved to be the same that gave the salute the night before, +came up, and Tupia again engaged in conversation with the people in her. +After behaving very peaceably about an hour, the fit of pelting again +seized them, and they gave the ship another volley of stones; but a +musquet being fired, they instantly took to their paddles. + +In the forenoon, of the same day, the Endeavour sailed between a low +flat island and the main: the villages upon the latter were more +extensive than any they had yet seen. They were upon the high land next +the sea, and were surrounded by a bank with rails on the top of it, and +a ditch. There were some inclosures that resembled forts, and the whole +had the appearance of fortified places. The Endeavour passed the night +under an island about twenty miles from the main, which they named the +MAYOR. In the morning of the 3d, they gave the name of THE COURT OF +ALDERMEN to a number of small islands that lay contiguous, about twelve +miles from the main, between which there are several other small islands +mostly barren, but very high. The aspect of the main-land was now much +changed, the soil appearing barren, and the country very thinly +inhabited. The Chief, who governed the district from Cape _Turnagain_ to +this coast, was named _Teratu_. + +On Friday the 3d, three canoes came a-longside with several Indians. +These canoes were built very different from the others, being formed of +the trunks of single trees, made hollow by burning: they were not +carved, or in any shape ornamented. These Indians were of a darker +complexion than the others, but made use of the same modes of defiance, +and threw several stones and some of their lances into the ship. + +The same afternoon the Endeavour sailed towards an inlet they had +discovered, and anchored in seven fathom water. She was soon after +surrounded by several canoes, and the Indians at first did not shew any +signs that they intended committing hostilities. One of the Endeavour’s +people shot a bird, which the Indians conveyed on board, without +testifying any surprise at the event. For their civility, the Captain +gave them a piece of cloth. But this favour had a very opposite +influence to what was expected, for when it grew dark, they sung one of +their menacing songs, and attempted to carry off the anchor’s buoy. Some +musquets were now fired over them, which seemed rather to irritate than +terrify them, and upon their going off, they threatened to return the +next morning in greater numbers; they came back however the same night +about eleven o’clock, in hopes of surprising the ship’s crew; but +finding them on their guard, they again retired. + +In the morning of the 4th, a great number of canoes, with near two +hundred men, armed with spears, lances and stones, made their +appearance, seemingly resolved to attack the ship, and desirous of +boarding her, but could not determine at what part, changing their +stations, and paddling round her. These motions kept the crew upon the +watch, in the rain, whilst Tupia, at the request of the Captain, used +every dissuasive argument he could suggest to prevent their carrying +their apparent designs into execution; but his expostulations did not +pacify them till some musquets were fired; they then laid aside their +hostile intentions, and began to trade: they sold two of their weapons +without fraud, but a third, for which they had received cloth, they +would not deliver up, and instead of paying any attention to the demand +that was made of it, they only laughed at them, and turned their +expostulations into ridicule. As the Captain proposed to stay some days +at this place, that he might observe the Transit of Mercury, he judged +it expedient to chastise these people for their insolence and knavery; +accordingly some small shot were fired upon the principal offender, and +a musquet-ball went through his canoe. His companions left him to his +fate, without taking the least notice of him, though he was wounded, and +continued to trade without any discomposure. They for some time traded +very fairly, but returning to their male practices, another canoe was +fired upon, and struck: they soon after paddled away, whilst a round +shot was fired over them. + +Thus we find, that theft and chicane are as prevalent amongst the +inhabitants of New Zealand, as those of Otaheite; from whence we might +conclude, that in all uncivilized nations, probity is not considered as +a virtue, or theft as a vice. Having no punishment for crimes of this +kind, it may be urged, that they are not taught to consider them as +such; but if nature has implanted in us just ideas of right and wrong, +they must operate as forcibly upon the inhabitants under the line, as on +those of other climes; and a native of Otaheite must be equally +conscious of a breach of natural justice as the most polished European. +However, as this is establishing the doctrine of innate ideas, which +would lead us into a large field of controversy, we shall leave the +reader to his own opinion upon this subject. + +In searching for a convenient anchoring-place, the Captain saw a village +upon a high point, near the head of the bay, fortified like those +villages already mentioned. Having met with a place to his mind near +where the Endeavour lay, he returned to the ship, and sailed to that +spot, where he cast anchor. + +Several of the Indians came off to the ship on the 5th, but behaved much +better than they had done the preceding day. They had with them an old +man, who had before testified his probity and discretion; and he +appeared to be of superior rank to the rest. He came on board with +another Indian, when the Captain presented them with some nails, and two +pieces of cloth of English manufacture. _Tojava_ (which was the name of +the old man) informed Mr. Banks, that the natives had been in great +terror of the English; when he was informed, that the Captain and his +people had no ill design against the Indians; but, on the contrary, +wanted to establish a friendly intercourse, and to traffick with them. +Tojava then acquainted the Captain, that they were often visited by +freebooters from the north, who stripped them of all they could lay +their hands on, and often made captives of their children and wives; and +that being ignorant who the English were upon their first arrival, the +natives had taken the alarm upon the ship’s appearing off the coast, but +were now satisfied of their good intent. He added, that to secure +themselves from these plunderers, their houses were built contiguous +near the tops of rocks, where they are more able to defend themselves. +Probably their poverty and misery may be ascribed to the ravages of this +banditti, who often strip them of every necessary of life. Whilst they +were fishing for mullets in the bay, the Indians who were upon the banks +testified their friendship by every possible means, and gave them an +invitation to come on shore. + +The assurances of friendship, which they had received from the gentlemen +on board, seemed to have a proper influence upon the natives, who were +now very tractable and submissive, and behaved with much civility to the +people in the long-boat, which was again dispatched into the bay to +fish, but with little success; the Indians however brought great +quantities of fish, dressed and dried; and though they were very +indifferent, they were purchased, that trade might not be discouraged. +In a word, the natives now treated the English with great hospitality; a +large supply of wood and good water was obtained, and the ship, being +very foul, was heeled, and her bottom scrubbed in the bay. + +November the 8th the ship was visited by several canoes, in one of which +was Tojava, who perceiving two strange canoes paddling from the opposite +shore, suddenly turned about, and acquainted the Captain that he was +under apprehensions, the people in them were some of the freebooters, +but he soon found his mistake, and returned to the ship. The Indians +supplied the ship’s crew with as much excellent fish, resembling +mackrel, as was sufficient for all their dinners, for which they gave +them some pieces of cloth. + +A great variety of plants were this day collected by Mr. Banks and Dr. +Solander; they had never observed any of the kind before. These +gentlemen remained on shore till near dark, when they observed the +manner of the natives disposing of themselves during the night. They lay +under some bushes; the men nearest the sea in a semicircular form, and +the women and children the most distant from it; their arms were placed +against trees very near them, to defend themselves in case of a surprize +from the freebooters. They had no king, whose sovereignty they +acknowledged, which was a circumstance unparalleled on any other parts +of the coast. + +Early in the morning of the 9th, several canoes brought a prodigious +quantity of mackrel, one sort of which was no way different from the +mackrel caught on our coast. These canoes were succeeded by many others, +equally well loaded with the same sort of fish; and the cargoes +purchased were so great, that when salted, they might be considered as a +month’s provision for the whole ship’s company. + +This being a very clear day, the astronomer (Mr. Green) and the other +gentlemen landed to observe the Transit of Mercury, and whilst the +observation was making, a large canoe, with various commodities on +board, came alongside the ship and Mr. Gore, the officer who had then +the command, being desirous of encouraging them to traffick, produced a +piece of Otaheitean cloth, of more value than any they had yet seen, +which was immediately seized by one of the Indians, who obstinately +refused either to return it, or give any thing in exchange; he paid +dearly however for his temerity, being shot dead on the spot. + +The death of this young Indian alarmed all the rest; they fled with +great precipitancy, and for the present could not be induced to renew +their traffick with the English. But when the Indians on shore had heard +the particulars related by Tojava, who greatly condemned the conduct of +the deceased, they seemed to think that he merited his fate. His name +proved to be Otirreeoonooe. + +This transaction happened, as has been mentioned, whilst the observation +was making of the Transit of Mercury, when the weather was so +favourable, that the whole Transit was viewed without a cloud +intervening. Mr. Green made the observation of the ingress, whilst +Captain Cook was engaged in ascertaining the time, by taking the sun’s +altitude. The Transit commenced at 7 hours, 20 min. 58 sec. by Mr. +Green’s observation the internal contact was at 12 hours, 8 min. 57 sec. +the external at 12 hours, 9 min. 54 sec. the latitude 30 deg. 48 min. 5 +sec. In consequence of this observation having been made here, this bay +was called _Mercury Bay_. + +On the 10th Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and the Captain went in boats to +inspect a large river that runs into the bay. They found it broader some +miles within than at the mouth, and intersected into a number of +streams, by several small islands, which were covered with trees. On the +east side of the river the gentlemen shot some shags, which proved very +good eating. The shore abounded with fish of various kinds, such as +cockles, clams and oysters; and here were also ducks, shags, seapies and +curlieus, with other wild fowl in great plenty. At the mouth of the +river there was good anchorage in five fathom water. The gentlemen were +received with great hospitality by the inhabitants of a little village, +on the east side of the river. There are the remains of a fort called +Eppah, in a peninsula that projects into the river, and it was well +calculated for defending a small number against a greater force. From +the remains, it nevertheless seemed to have been taken and partly +destroyed. + +The Indians sup before sun-set, when they eat fish and birds baked or +roasted; they roast them upon a stick, stuck in the ground near the +fire, and bake them in the manner the dog was baked, which the gentlemen +ate at King George’s Island. + +A female mourner was present at one of their suppers; she was seated +upon the ground, and wept incessantly, at the same, time repeating some +sentences in a doleful manner, but which Tupia could not explain; at the +termination of each period she cut herself with a shell upon her breast, +her hands or her face; notwithstanding this shocking, bloody spectacle +greatly affected the gentlemen present, yet all the Indians who sat by +her, except one, were quite unmoved. The gentlemen saw some, who from +the depth of their scars must, upon these occasions, have wounded +themselves still more violently. + +November 11, great plenty of oysters were procured from a bed which had +been discovered, and they proved exceedingly good. Next day the ship was +visited by two canoes, with unknown Indians; after some invitation they +came on board, and they all trafficked without any fraud. + +Two fortified villages being descried, the Captain, with Mr. Banks and +Dr. Solander, went to examine them: the smallest was romantically +situated upon a rock, which was arched; this village did not consist of +above five or six houses, fenced round. There was but one path, which +was very narrow, that conducted to it. The gentlemen were invited by the +inhabitants to pay them a visit, but not having time to spare, they took +another route, after making presents to the females. A body of men, +women and children now approached the gentlemen, who proved to be the +inhabitants of another town, which they proposed visiting. They gave +many testimonials of their friendly dispositions, among others they +uttered the word _Heromai_, which, according to Tupia’s interpretation, +implied Peace, and appeared much satisfied, when informed the gentlemen +intended visiting their habitations. Their town was named _Wharretouwa_; +it is seated on a point of land over the sea, on the north side of the +bay; it was paled round, and defended by a double ditch. Within the +ditch a stage is erected for defending the place in case of an attack; +near this stage, which they call _Porava_, quantities of darts and +stones are deposited to be in readiness to repel the assailants. There +is another stage to command the path that leads to the town, and there +are also some outworks. Upon the whole, the place seemed calculated to +hold out a considerable time against an enemy armed with no other +weapons than those of the inhabitants. It appeared however deficient in +water for a siege. They eat instead of bread fern root, which was herein +great plenty, with dried fish. + +Very little land is here cultivated, sweet potatoes and yams being the +only vegetables they found. There are two rocks near the foot of this +fortification, both separated from the main land; they are very small, +nevertheless they are not without dwelling-houses and little +fortifications. They throw stones in their engagements with their hands, +being destitute of a sling, and those and lances are their only missile +weapons; they have, besides the _Pattoo Pattoo_, already described, a +staff about five feet in length, and another shorter. + +They sailed from this bay, after taking possession of it in the name of +the King of Great Britain, on the 15th of November; Tojava, who visited +them in his canoe just before their departure, said he should, as soon +as the English were gone, prepare to retire to his fort, as the +relations of Otirreeoonooe had menaced to take his life, as a forfeit +for that of the deceased, Tojava being judged partial in this affair to +the English. A number of islands of different sizes appeared towards the +north-west, which were named _Mercury Islands_. Mercury bay lies in +latitude 36 deg. 47 min. south; longitude 184 deg. 4 min. west, and has +a small entrance at its mouth. On account of the number of oysters found +in the river, the Captain gave it the name of _Oyster river_. _Mangrove +river_ (which the Captain so called from the great number of those trees +that grew near it) is the most secure place for shipping, being at the +head of the bay. The north-west side of this bay and river is much more +fertile than the east side. The inhabitants, though numerous, have no +plantations; their canoes are very indifferently constructed, and are no +way ornamented; they lie under continual apprehensions of Teratu, being +considered by him as rebels. + +Upon this shore iron sand is in plenty to be found, which proves that +there are mines of that metal up the country, it being brought down by a +rivulet from thence. + +On the 18th, in the morning, the Endeavour steered between the main, and +an island which seemed very fertile, and as extensive as Uli Etea. Many +canoes filled with Indians came along-side, and the Indians sung their +war song, but the Endeavour’s people paying them no attention, they +threw a volley of stones, and then paddled away; but they presently +returned and renewed their insults. Tupia spoke to them, making use of +his old argument, that inevitable destruction would ensue if they +persisted; they answered with brandishing their weapons, intimating, at +the same time, that if the English dared to come on shore they would +destroy them all. Tupia still persisted in expostulating with them, but +to no purpose; and they soon gave another volley of stones; but upon a +musket being fired at one of their boats, they made a precipitate +retreat. + +In the evening they cast anchor in 23 fathom, and early the next morning +they sailed up an inlet. Soon after two canoes came off, and some of the +Indians came on board; they claimed an acquaintance with Tojava, and +knew Tupia’s name; and after they had received some presents they +retired peaceably. + +The Endeavour was now in the bay, called by the natives Ooahaouragee, +and Captain Cook, with Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, &c. went in the boats +to the bottom of the bay to examine it, and they did not return till +next morning. They had been up a fresh water river, at the bottom of the +bay, in three fathoms water, which would make a good harbour. They met +with an Indian town, and a hippah, or place of refuge, the inhabitants +of which invited them to land, and gave them a friendly reception. At +the entrance of a wood they met with a tree ninety-eight feet high from +the ground to the first branch, quite strait, and nineteen feet in +circumference and they found still larger trees of the same kind as they +advanced into the wood. The Captain called this river THAMES, being not +unlike our river of that name. They also found several young cabbage +trees, and a new species of the palm-nut, or _Pardanus_. + +Captain Cook weighed anchor the same afternoon, sailing down the river +with the tide, the wind blowing fresh from north-north-west; the next +morning the flood obliged him to cast anchor again; and the Captain, +with Dr. Solander, went on shore to the west, but made no observations +worth relating. The ship, at their departure from it, was surrounded +with canoes, which induced Mr. Banks to remain on board, that he might +trade with the Indians. The chief object of these people was paper, for +which they exchanged their arms and cloaths, and took no unfair +advantages. Though the traders were honest in their dealings, there was +one amongst them, who took a fancy to a half-minute glass, but was +detected in secreting it, and he was punished with the cato’nine tails. +The other Indians endeavoured to save him from this punishment; but +being opposed, they got their arms from the canoes, and some of the +people in them attempted to get on board. Mr. Banks and Tupia now coming +upon deck, the Indians applied to Tupia but he having no influence upon +Mr. Hicks, the commanding officer, informed them of the nature of the +offender’s intended punishment, which pacified them, as they imagined he +was going to be put to death. The criminal not only received twelve +lashes, but afterwards a drubbing from an old man, who was thought to be +his father. The canoes immediately went off, the Indians saying, they +should be afraid to return again on board. Tupia, however, had so much +influence over them as to bring them back; but they seemed to have lost +that confidence, which they had before reposed in the English. + +On the 23d the wind being still against them, they were obliged to tide +it down the river, anchoring between tides; they passed a point of land, +which the Captain called _Point Rodney_, and which is the north-west +extremity of the river. As they could not approach the land, on account +of the wind, they had but a distant view of the main for a course of +near thirty miles. Captain Cook comprehended, under the name of the +River Thames, the whole bay; and the promontory at the north-east +extremity, he called Cape Colville, in honour of the peer of that name. +This cape is in latitude 36 deg. 26 min. longitude 194 deg. 27 min. it +is distinguishable at a considerable distance by a very high rock. The +river runs south by east from the south point of this cape; it is, in +the narrowest parts, at least three leagues over for near fourteen +leagues, when it becomes narrower. It was thought to contain fish in +abundance, as there appeared many implements necessary for fishing; the +water was in some places twenty-six fathoms deep, and gradually +diminished. There are several small islands within cape Colville, which +appear to form tolerable harbours. There are also islands towards the +western shore. The anchorage is good in all parts of the bay, which is +defended from the sea by a number of small islands, which Captain Cook +named _Barrier Islands_. + +The circumjacent country, which is pretty extensive, appeared to be but +thinly inhabited; the natives are a stout and active people, and are +painted red all over: their canoes were ornamented with carving, and +were constructed upon a good model. + +On the 24th, they still continued steering along the shore, between the +islands and the main, and in the evening anchored in an open bay, in +about fourteen fathoms water. Here they caught a large number of fish of +the scienne, or bream kind; from which the Captain named this _Bream +Bay_, and the extreme points of it _Bream Head_. There are numbers of +rocks off this bay, which were called the _Hen and Chickens_; it is +situated in latitude 35 deg. 46 min. seventeen leagues north-west of +cape Colville. There is an extent of land of about thirty miles between +Point Rodney and Bream Head; it is woody and low. No inhabitants were +visible, but from the fires perceived at night, the gentlemen concluded +it was inhabited. + +On the 25th, early in the morning, the Endeavour sailed out of the bay, +keeping to the northward near the shore. Some islands were soon after +discovered, about ten miles to the north-north-east, which they called +the _Poor Knights_; upon these islands there were some houses, and a few +towns that appeared fortified, and the land round them seemed +cultivated. Towards night several canoes, with a number of Indians, came +up to the ship, and some came on board. Two of the Chiefs received +presents, and told the gentlemen, that they had had an account of the +arrival of the English in those parts. After their departure other +Indians came up to trade, and soon began their usual fraudulent +practices; the gentlemen had recourse to the old remedy of firing some +small shot, and a round shot, which soon put them to flight. + +Sunday the 26th, Captain Cook continued his course slowly along the +shore to the north. This day two canoes came up, and some of the Indians +came on board, when they trafficked very fairly. Two larger canoes soon +after followed them, and coming up to the ship, the people in them +hailed the others, when they conferred together, and afterwards came +along-side of the ship. The last two canoes were finely ornamented with +carving, and the people, who appeared to be of higher rank, were armed +with various weapons; they held in high estimation their _Patoo Patoos_, +which were made of stone and whalebone, and they had ribs of whale, with +ornaments of dog’s hair, which were very curious. These people were of a +darker complexion than those to the southward, and their faces were +stained blacker, with what they call Amoco; and their thighs were +striped with it, very small interstices of the flesh being left visible. +Though they all used the black _Amoco_, they applied it to different +parts, and in various forms. Most of them had the figure of volutes on +their lips, and one woman in particular was curiously marked upon +various parts of her body. These Indians seemed the superiors of the +others, they were nevertheless not free from the vice of pilfering, for +one of them having agreed to barter a weapon for a piece of cloth, he +was no sooner in possession of the cloth, than he paddled away without +paying the price of it; but a musquet being fired, he came back and +returned the cloth. All the canoes then returned ashore. + +The Endeavour passed a remarkable point of land, which the Captain +called _Cape Bret_, in honour of the baronet of that name: this cape is +much higher than any of the adjacent land. Within a mile to the +north-east by north is a curious rocky island; it is arched, and has a +pleasing effect at a distance. The natives call this _Cape Motugogogo_: +it lies in latitude 35 deg. 10 min. 30 sec. south; and longitude 185 +deg. 23 min. west. It forms a bay to the west, which contains many small +islands, and Captain Cook named the point at the north-west entrance +_Point Pococke_. There are many villages on the main as well as on the +islands, which appeared well inhabited, and several canoes, filled with +Indians, made to the ship, and after coming along-side to trade, shewed +the same itch for cheating as the others. One of the midshipmen was so +nettled at being imposed upon, that he had recourse to a whimsical +expedient by way of revenge; taking a fishing line, he threw the lead +with so much dexterity, that the hook caught the Indian who had imposed +upon him by the buttocks, when the line breaking, the hook remained in +his posteriors. These Indians were strong and well proportioned; their +hair was black, and tied up in a bunch stuck with feathers: the Chiefs +among them had garments made of fine cloth, ornamented with dog’s skin; +and they were tataowed like those who had last appeared. + +On the 27th the Endeavour was among a number of small islands, from +which several canoes came off; but the Indians, from their frantic +gestures, seemed disordered in their minds; they threw their fish into +the ship by handfuls, without demanding any thing by way of barter. Some +other canoes also came up, who saluted the ship with stones. One of the +Indians, who was particularly active, threw a stick at one of the +Endeavour’s men. It was then judged time to bring them to reason, and a +musquet, with small shot was fired at him, when he fell down in the +canoe. A general terror was now spread amongst them, and they all made a +very precipitate retreat. Among the fish obtained from these canoes, +were _Cavalles_ in great plenty, and for this reason the Captain called +these islands by the same name. + +For several days the wind was so very unfavourable, that the vessel +rather lost than gained ground; on the 29th, having weathered Cape Bret, +they bore away to leeward, and got into a large bay, where they anchored +on the south-west side of several islands, and suddenly came into four +fathom and a half water. Upon sounding, they found they had got upon a +bank, and accordingly weighed and dropped over it, and anchored again in +ten fathoms and a half; after which the ship was surrounded by +thirty-three large canoes, containing near three hundred Indians all +armed. Some of them were admitted on board, and Captain Cook gave a +piece of broad cloath to one of the Chiefs, and some small presents to +the others. They traded peaceably for some time, being terrified at the +fire arms, the effect of which they were not unacquainted with; but +whilst the Captain was at dinner, on a signal given by one of their +Chiefs, all the Indians quitted the ship, and they attempted to tow away +the buoy; a musquet was now fired over them, but it produced no effect; +small shot was then fired at them, but it did not reach them. A musquet, +loaded with ball, was therefore ordered to be fired, and _Otegoowgoow_ +(son of one of the Chiefs) was wounded in the thigh by it, which induced +them immediately to throw the buoy overboard. To complete their +confusion a round shot was fired, which reached the shore, and as soon +as they landed they ran in search of it. If these Indians had been under +any kind of military discipline, they might have proved a much more +formidable enemy; but acting thus, without any plan or regulation, they +only exposed themselves to the annoyance of fire arms, whilst they could +not possibly succeed in any of their designs. + +The Captain, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander landed upon the island, and the +Indians in the canoes soon after came on shore. The gentlemen were now +in a small cove, and they were presently surrounded by near four hundred +armed Indians; but the Captain not suspecting any hostile design on the +part of the natives, remained peaceably disposed. The gentlemen marching +towards them, drew a line, intimating that they were not to pass it; +they did not infringe upon this boundary for some time, but at length +they sung the song of defiance, and began to dance, whilst a party +attempted to draw the Endeavour’s boats on shore; these signals for an +attack being immediately followed by the Indians breaking in upon the +line, the gentlemen judged it time to defend themselves, and accordingly +the Captain fired his musquet, loaded with small shot, which was +seconded by Mr. Banks discharging his piece, and two of the men followed +his example. This threw the Indians into confusion, and they retreated; +but were rallied again by one of their Chiefs, who shouted and waved his +patoo patoo. The Doctor now pointed his musquet at this hero, and hit +him; this stopt his career, and he took to flight with the other +Indians. They retired to an eminence in a collective body, and seemed +dubious whether they should return to the charge. They were now at too +great a distance for ball to reach them; but these operations being +observed from the ship, she brought her broad side to bear, and by +firing over them soon dispersed them. The Indians had in this skirmish +two of their people wounded, but none killed. Peace being thus restored, +the gentlemen began to gather celery and other herbs; but suspecting +some of the natives were lurking about with evil designs, they repaired +to a cave, which was at a small distance; here they found the Chief, who +had that day received a present from the Captain; he came forth with his +wife and brother, and solicited their clemency. It appeared, that one of +the wounded Indians was a brother of this Chief, who was under great +anxiety lest the wound should prove mortal; but his grief was in a great +degree alleviated, when he was made acquainted with the different +effects of small shot and ball; he was at the same time assured, that +upon any future hostilities being committed ball would be used. This +interview terminated very cordially, after some trifling presents were +made to the Chief and his companions. + +The prudence of the gentlemen upon this occasion, cannot be much +commended. Had these four hundred Indians boldly rushed in upon them at +once with their weapons, the musquetry could have done very little +execution; but supposing twenty or thirty of the Indians had been +wounded, for it does not appear their pieces were loaded with ball, but +only small shot, there would have remained a sufficient number to have +massacred them, as it appears they do not give any quarter, and none +could have been expected upon this occasion. It is true, when the ship +brought her broad-side to bear, she might have made great havock amongst +the Indians; but this would have been too late to save the party on +shore. + +Being again in their boats, they rowed to another part of the same +island, when landing and gaining an eminence, they had a very agreeable +and romantic view of a great number of islands, well inhabited and +cultivated. The inhabitants of an adjacent town approached unarmed, and +testified great humility and submission. Some of the party on shore, who +had been very violent for having the Indians punished for their +fraudulent conduct, were now guilty of trespasses equally reprehensible, +having forced into some of the plantations, and dug up potatoes. The +Captain upon this occasion shewed strict justice in punishing each of +the offenders with twelve lashes: one of them being very refractory upon +the occasion, and complaining of the hardship, thinking an Englishman +had a right to plunder an Indian with impunity, was flogged out of this +opinion with six additional lashes. Probably his adding “that in this, +he had only followed the example of his superiors,” might have had no +little weight in procuring him this last sentence. + +It being a dead calm on the 30th, two boats were sent to sound the +harbour, and many canoes came up, and traded with great probity: the +gentlemen went again on shore, and met with a very civil reception from +the natives; and this friendly intercourse continued all the time they +remained in the bay, which was several days. Being upon a visit to the +old Chief, he shewed them the instruments used in tataowing, which were +very like those at Otaheite employed upon the like occasion. They saw +the man who had been wounded by the ball, when the attempt was made to +carry off the ship’s buoy; and though it had gone through the fleshy +part of his arm, it did not seem to give him the least pain or +uneasiness. + +On Tuesday the 5th, in the morning, they weighed anchor, but were soon +becalmed, and a strong current setting towards the shore, they were +driven in with such rapidity, that they expected every moment to run +upon the breakers, which appeared above water not more than a cable’s +length distance; they were so near the land, that Tupia, who was totally +ignorant of the danger, held a conversation with the Indians, who were +standing on the beach. They were happily relieved, however, from this +alarming situation by a fresh breeze, suddenly springing up from the +shore. + +The bay which they had left was called the _Bay of Islands_, on account +of the numerous islands it contains; they catched but few fish while +they lay there, but procured great plenty from the natives, who are +extremely expert at fishing, and display great ingenuity in the form of +their nets, which are made of a kind of grass; they are two or three +hundred fathoms in length, and remarkably strong; and they have them in +such plenty, that it is scarce possible to go a hundred yards upon the +beach, without meeting with numbers lying in heaps. These people did not +appear to be under the government of any particular Chief or Sovereign, +and they seemed to live in a perfect state of friendship, +notwithstanding their villages were fortified. According to their +observations upon the tides, the flood comes from the south, and there +is a current from the west. + +Dec. 7, several canoes put off and followed the Endeavour, but a breeze +arising, Captain Cook did not wait for them: on the 8th they tacked, and +stood in for the shore: and on the 9th, they were about seven leagues to +the westward of the Cavalles, and soon after came to a deep bay, which +the Captain named _Doubtless Bay_. The wind prevented their putting in +here, and being soon after becalmed, they were visited by several canoes +from shore, with whom they trafficked. From these Indians they learnt, +they were about two days sail from _Moore Whennua_, where the land +changed its shape, and instead of extending to the westward, turned to +the south; and that to the north-north-west there was an extensive +country, named _Ulimaroah_, where the inhabitants lived upon hogs, which +they called _Booah_, and was the same name given them by the inhabitants +of the islands in the South Seas. They saw upon the coast several +plantations, of the Eaowte, or cloth trees, and some of the Koomarra. +They beat to windward four days, and made but little way. On the 10th, +the land appeared low and barren, but was not destitute of inhabitants; +the next morning, they stood in with the land, which forms a peninsula, +and which the Captain named _Knuckle Point_. Another bay, that lies +contiguous, Captain Cook called _Sandy Bay_, in the middle of it is a +high mountain, which was named _Mount Camel_, on account of its +resembling that animal. Several canoes put off, but could not reach the +ship, which now tacked and stood to the northward, till the afternoon of +the 12th, when she stood to the north-east. Towards night it began to +rain and blow, and in the morning it was so tempestuous, as to split the +main-top-sail, and the fore mizen-top-sails. Early in the morning of the +14th, they saw land to the southward; and on the 15th, they tacked and +stood to the westward; next day they discovered land from the mast-head +to the south-south-west; and on the 16th came off the northern extremity +of New Zealand, which the Captain called NORTH CAPE. It lies in latitude +34 deg. 22 min. south, longitude 186 deg. 55 min. west, and forms the +north point of Sandy Bay. Their situation varied but little till the +24th, when they discovered land, which they judged to be the islands of +the Three Kings, though they did not resemble the description of them in +Dalrymple’s account. The chief island is in latitude 34 deg. 12 min. +south, longitude 187 deg. 48 min west, between fourteen or fifteen +leagues from North Cape. Mr. Banks went out in the small boat, and +caught some birds that greatly resembled geese, and they were very good +eating. On the 27th, it blew very hard from the east all day, +accompanied with heavy showers of rain, and they brought the ship under +a reef main-sail. On the 30th they saw land, bearing north-east, which +was thought to be Cape Maria Van Diemen, but the sea being very +boisterous, they did not venture to approach it, but tacked about and +stood to the north-west. + +January 1, 1770, they tacked and stood to the eastward; and on the 3d +they saw land again; it was high and flat, and tended away to the +south-east, beyond the reach of the naked eye. It is remarkable, that +the Endeavour was three weeks in making ten leagues to the westward, and +that she met with a violent gale of wind in latitude 35 deg. south, at +Midsummer. On the morning of the 4th they stood along the shore, the +coast appearing sandy and barren, dreary and inhospitable; steering +northward on the 6th they saw land again, which they imagined to be Cape +Maria: on the 7th, they had light breezes, and were sometimes becalmed, +when they saw a sun-fish, short and thick in figure, with two large +fins, but scarce any tail, resembling a shark in colour and size. They +continued steering east till the 9th, when they perceived land, and were +soon after a-breast of a point, which Captain Cook named _Woody-head_. +From the south-west there is a small island, which the Captain called +_Gannet Island_. Another point remarkably high to the east-north-east, +the Captain named _Albetross Point_, on the north side of which a bay is +formed that promises good anchorage. At about two leagues distance from +Albetross Point to the north-east, they discovered a remarkable high +mountain, equal in height to that, of Teneriffe, the summit of which was +covered with snow, and it was named Mount _Egmont_. It is in latitude 39 +deg. 16 min. longitude 185 deg. 15 min. west, and the country round it +is pleasant, presenting an agreeable verdure, intersected with woods: +the coast forms an extensive cape, which the Captain likewise called +cape Egmont, in honour of the nobleman of that name. It is about +twenty-seven leagues to the south-south-west of Albetross Point, having +two small islands to the north, near a very high point of a conic +figure. This day some very heavy showers of rain fell, accompanied with +thunder and lightening. The Captain proposed careening the ship here, +and taking in wood and water; and accordingly, on the 15th, steered for +an inlet; when it being almost a calm, the ship was carried by the +current very near the shore, but got clear with the assistance of the +boats. Whilst this was doing a sea lion made its appearance; it is a +very curious creature, and answers the description given of it in Lord +Anson’s Voyage. The Captain sent the pinnace to examine a small cove +that appeared, but soon after recalled her, on seeing the natives launch +and arm their canoes. The Endeavour anchored in a commodious part of the +bay, in sailing towards which spot an Indian town was descried, when the +inhabitants waved their hands, seemingly to invite the Endeavour’s +people to land. In passing the point of the bay, they observed an armed +centinel on duty, who was twice relieved. Four canoes came from shore to +visit the ship, but none of the Indians would venture on board, except +an old man, who seemed of elevated rank: his countrymen took great pains +to prevent his coming on board, but they could not divert him from his +purpose, and he was received with the utmost civility and hospitality. +Tupia and the old man joined noses, according to the custom of the +country, and after receiving several presents, he returned to his +associates, when they began to dance and laugh, and soon after retired. +The Captain and the other gentlemen now went on shore, where they met +with plenty of wood and water, and were very successful in fishing, +catching some hundred weight in a short time. + +On the 16th the Endeavour’s people were engaged in careening her, when +three canoes came off with a great number of Indians, and brought +several of their women with them. This circumstance was judged a +favourable presage of their peaceable disposition, but they soon gave +proofs of the contrary, by attempting to stop the long-boat that was +sent on shore for water, when Captain Cook had recourse to the old +expedient of firing some shot, which intimidated them for the present; +but they soon gave fresh proofs of their insidious designs. One of them +snatched some paper from the Endeavour’s people who were trading with +them, and brandishing his patoo patoo, put himself in a threatening +posture; upon which it was judged expedient to fire some small shot at +him, which wounded him in the knee; this step put an end to the +correspondence with regard to trade; but Tupia still continued +conversing with them, and making many inquiries concerning the +curiosities of New Zealand; he also asked them, if they had ever before +seen a ship of the magnitude of the Endeavour; to which they replied, +they had never seen such a vessel, nor ever heard that one had been upon +the coast, though Tasman certainly touched here, which was only fifteen +miles south of Murderer’s bay. There is great plenty of fish in all the +coves of this bay; among others here are cuttle fish, large breams, +small grey breams, small and large baracootas, flying gurnards, horse +mackrel, dog fish, soles, dabs, mullets, drums, scorpenas, or rock fish, +cole fish, shags, chimeras, &c. The inhabitants catch their fish as +follows; their net is cylindrical, extended by several hoops at the +bottom, and contracted at the top; the fish going in to feed upon what +is put in the net, are caught in great abundance; there are also birds +of various kinds, and in great numbers, particularly parrots, wood +pigeons, water hens, hawks, and many different singing birds. An herb, a +species of _Philadelphus_, was used here instead of tea; and a plant, +called Teegoomme, resembling rug cloaks, served the natives for +garments. The environs of the cove where the Endeavour lay is covered +entirely with wood, and the supple jacks are so numerous, that it is +with difficulty passengers can pursue their way; here is a numerous +sand-fly that is very disagreeable. The tops of many of the hills are +covered with fern. The air of the country is very moist, and has some +qualities that promote putrefaction, as birds that had been shot but a +few hours were found with maggots in them. The women who accompanied the +men in the canoes wore a head-dress, which the gentlemen had no where +met with before. It was composed of black feathers, tied in a bunch on +the top of the head, which greatly increased its height. The manner of +their disposing of their dead is very different to what is practised in +the South-sea islands, they tie a large stone to the body, and throw it +into the sea: the gentlemen saw the body of a woman which had been +disposed of this way, but which by some accident had disengaged itself +from the stone, floating upon the water. The Captain, Mr. Banks, and the +Doctor visited another cove, about two miles from the ship. There was a +family of Indians who were greatly alarmed at the approach of the +gentlemen, all running away except one; but upon Tupia’s conversing with +him the others returned. They found, by the provisions of this family, +that they were cannibals, here being several human bones that had been +lately dressed and picked; and it appeared, that a short time before, +six of their enemies having fallen into their hands, they had killed +four and eaten them, and that the other two were drowned in endeavouring +to make their escape. They made no secret of this abominable custom, but +answered Tupia, who was desired to ascertain the fact, with great +composure, that his conjectures were just, that they were the bones of a +man, and testified by signs, that they thought human flesh delicious +food. Upon being asked, why they had not eaten the body of the woman +that had been seen floating upon the water? They replied, she had died +of a disorder, and that moreover she was related to them, and they never +ate any but their enemies. Upon Mr. Banks’s still testifying some doubts +concerning the fact, one of the Indians drew the bone of a man’s arm +through his mouth, and this gentleman had the curiosity to bring it away +with him. There was a woman in this family whose arms and legs were cut +in a shocking manner, and it appeared she had thus wounded herself, +because her husband had lately been killed and eaten by the enemy. + +Some of the Indians brought four skulls one day to sell, which they +rated at a very high price. The brains had been taken out, and probably +eaten, but the scalp and hair remained. They seemed to have been dried +by fire, in order to preserve them from putrefaction. The gentlemen +likewise saw the bail of a canoe, which was made of a human skull. In a +word, their ideas were so horrid and brutal, that they seemed to pride +themselves upon their cruelty and barbarity, and took a peculiar +pleasure in shewing the manner in which they killed their enemies, it +being considered as very meritorious to be expert at this destruction. +The method used was to knock them down with their patoo patoos, and then +rip up their bellies. + +An amazing number of birds usually began their melody about two o’clock +in the morning, and serenaded the gentlemen till the time of their +rising. This harmony was very agreeable, as the ship lay at a convenient +distance from the shore, to hear it. These feathered choiristers, like +the English nightingales, never sing in the day time. + +On the 17th, the ship was visited by a canoe from the hippah, or +village; it contained, among others, the aged Indian, of superior +distinction, who had first visited the English upon their arrival. In a +conference which Tupia had with him, he testified his apprehensions, +that their enemies would very soon visit them, and repay the compliment, +for killing and eating the four men. + +On the 18th they received no visit from the Indians, but going out in +the pinnace to inspect the bay, they saw a single man in a canoe, +fishing in the manner already described. It was remarkable, that this +man did not pay the least attention to the people in the pinnace, but +continued to pursue his employment even when they came along-side of +him, without once looking at them. Some of the Endeavour’s people being +on shore found three human hip bones, close to an oven: these were +brought on board, as well as the hair of a man’s head, which was found +in a tree. The next day a forge was set up to repair the iron work, and +some Indians visited the ship with plenty of fish, which they bartered +very fairly for nails. + +On the 20th, Mr. Banks purchased of the old Indian a man’s head, which +he seemed very unwilling to part with; the skull had been fractured by a +blow, and the brains were extracted, and like the others it was +preserved from putrefaction. From the care with which they kept these +skulls, and the reluctance with which they bartered any, it was imagined +they were considered as trophies of war, and testimonials of their +valour. In this day’s excursion they did not meet with a single native; +the ground on every side was quite uncultivated; but they discovered a +very good harbour. The succeeding day the ship’s company were allowed to +go on shore for their amusement, and the gentlemen employed themselves +in fishing, in which they were very successful. Some of the company in +their excursion met with fortifications that had not the advantage of an +elevated situation, but were surrounded by two or three wide ditches, +with a draw-bridge, which, tho’ simple in its structure, is capable of +answering every purpose against the arms of the natives. Within these +ditches is a fence, made with stakes, fixed in the earth. A decisive +conquest or victory over the besieged occasions an entire depopulation +of that district, as the vanquished, not only those who are killed, but +the prisoners likewise are devoured by the victors. From what has been +related by such unquestionable authority, there can remain no doubt with +the unprejudiced reader, that the inhabitants of this part of the globe +are cannibals. There are, indeed, some closet travellers, who treat +every thing as visionary, that they have not been eye-witnesses of, and +therefore disbelieve all they read, related by real travellers, that +does not square with their own notions and ideas; but as it may be +impossible to convince these sceptical readers, we shall leave them to +amuse themselves with their doubts and objections. + + [Illustration: _View of an Arched Rock on the Coast of New Zealand, + with a place of Retreat on the Top of it._] + +The 22d was employed by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander in collecting of +plants, whilst Captain Cook made some observations on the main land on +the south-east side of the inlet, which consisted of a chain of high +hills, and formed part of the south-west side of the streight; the +opposite side extended far to the east. He also discovered a village, +and many houses that had been deserted, and another village that +appeared to be inhabited. There were many small islands round the coast +that seemed entirely barren, and what few inhabitants were upon them +then lived principally upon fish. On the 24th they visited a hippah, +which was situated on a very high rock, hollow underneath, forming a +fine natural arch, one side of which joined to the land, and the other +rose out of the sea. The inhabitants received the gentlemen with great +civility, and very readily shewed them every thing that was curious. +This hippah was partly surrounded with a pallisade, and it had a +fighting stage like that already described. Here they met with a cross +resembling a crucifix, which was ornamented with feathers, and which was +erected as a monument for a deceased person; but they could not learn +how his body was disposed of. From a conversation that Tupia had with +these people, a discovery was made, that an officer being in a boat near +this village, and some canoes coming off made him imagine they had +hostile designs, and he fired upon them with ball, which made them +retire with much precipitation, but they could not effect their retreat +before one of them was wounded. What made this rash action the more to +be lamented was, that the Indians afterwards gave every possible +assurance that their intentions, upon this occasion, were entirely +friendly. + +On the 25th the Captain, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander went on shore to +shoot, when they met with a numerous family, who were among the creeks +catching fish: they behaved very civilly, and received some trifling +presents from the gentlemen. The next day they went to take a view of +the streight, that passes between the eastern and western seas: they +accordingly attained the summit of a hill, but it being cloudy weather, +they could not see at any considerable distance. Here, however, they +erected a pile, leaving in it musket balls, small shot, beads, &c. as a +testimonial of this place having been visited by Europeans. Upon their +return they met with another Indian family, who behaved to them very +respectfully, and assisted in procuring them water. They also visited +another hippah upon a rock that was almost inaccessible; it consisted of +about ninety houses, and had a fighting stage. The gentlemen made the +inhabitants some small presents, and they in return furnished them with +dried fish. + +The ship’s company were, on the 27th and 28th, engaged in making +necessary repairs, and getting her ready for sea. The next day they were +visited by Topoa, their old friend, and some other Indians. They said, +that the man who had received a wound from the officer, near the hippah, +was dead; but this assertion proved afterwards groundless. The Doctor +and Mr. Banks often went on shore whilst the ship was preparing for sea, +and made several observations upon the coast to the north-west: they +perceived an island, at about ten leagues distance, between which and +the main there were several smaller islands. The Captain also went on +shore, and erected another pyramid of stones, in which he put some +bullets, beads, &c. as before, with the addition of a piece of silver +coin, and placed part of an old pendant on the top, to distinguish it. +Some of the people who had been sent out to gather celery, met with +several of the natives, among whom were some women, whose husbands had +lately fallen into the hands of the enemy, and they were cutting many +parts of their body in the most shocking manner with sharp stones, in +testimony of their excessive grief. What made this ceremony appear +ridiculous as well as shocking, was, that the male Indians, who were +with them, paid not the least attention to it, but with the greatest +unconcern imaginable, employed themselves in repairing some empty huts +upon the spot. + +On Tuesday the 30th, two posts were erected, inscribed with the ship’s +name, &c. as usual; one was placed at the watering-place, with the Union +flag upon it, and the other in the same manner, on the island of +_Motuara_; and the inhabitants being informed, that these posts were +meant as memorials of the Endeavour having touched at this place, +promised never to destroy them. The Captain then named this inlet _Queen +Charlotte’s Sound_; and took possession of it in the name, and for the +use of his Majesty, and a bottle of wine was drank to the Queen’s +health. + +The Captain made the old man some presents; among others there were a +silver three-pence and some spike nails, with the broad arrow upon them. +Topoa being questioned concerning a passage into the eastern sea, +answered, that there certainly was such a passage; and he also informed +the Captain, that the land to the south-west of the streight, where he +then was, consisted of two islands, named _Tovy Poennammoo_, and that it +would take about two days to sail round them; he added, that there was a +third island to the east, called _Eaheinomauwe_, which was of +considerable extent; and that the land contiguous to this inlet was +called _Tiera Witte_. + +Towards night, on the 31st, a brisk gale arose, attended with heavy +showers, and the next morning the weather became so very tempestuous, +that the Endeavour had her hawser broke, and several casks of water that +had been left on shore were washed away with the rain. + +The 2d, 3d and 4th of February, were chiefly spent in preparing for +their departure, and purchasing fish of the natives, who confirmed the +accounts that Topoa had given, respecting an eastern passage and the +adjacent islands. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were in the mean while +chiefly engaged in collecting seeds and shells of different kinds. They +got under sail the 5th, but the wind not continuing, they came again to +an anchor. Topoa visited the gentlemen again to bid them farewel; and +being questioned, whether he had ever heard that such a vessel as the +Endeavour had touched there, he answered in the negative; but added, +there was a tradition of a small vessel coming from a place called +_Ulimaroa_ (a distant country to the north) that there were only four +men in her, and that they were all put to death. + +Mr. Banks and the Doctor went again on shore, in search of natural +curiosities, when they met with a very amiable Indian family, among whom +was a widow, and a pretty youth about ten years of age. She had just +lost her husband, and was performing the ceremony of the country upon +the occasion. They behaved with the utmost hospitality and courtesy, and +endeavoured to prevail with the gentlemen to stay all night, but they +expecting the ship to sail, could not accept of the invitation. This +family seemed the most enlightened and intelligent set of Indians the +gentlemen had as yet met with, which made them regret they had not +fallen into their company before, as they would probably have derived +much information from them. + +On the 6th of February, in the morning, the Endeavour sailed out of the +bay, which the ship’s company, from an abhorrence of the brutal custom +that prevails here of eating men, called _Cannibal Bay_. They bent their +course to an opening on the east; in the evening, being in the mouth of +the streights, they were becalmed in latitude 41 deg. south, longitude +184 deg. 45 min. west. The two points which form this entrance, were +named cape Koomaroo, and point Jackson. The natives call the land about +it Totarranue; and the harbour, which the Captain named _Ship Cove_, is +very safe and commodious. A ship may enter it either between Motuara and +the island of Hamote, or between the western shore and Motuara. Care, +however, must be taken to attend to the tides; when there is little wind +they flow about nine or ten o’clock at the full and change of the moon, +and rise and fall about seven feet and a half, passing through the +streight from the south-east. + +The natives about this sound are not above four hundred in number; they +are scattered along the coast, and live upon fern root and fish; the +latter of which was the only commodity they traded in. They were not +entirely ignorant of the use of iron, bartering their fish for nails, +and often giving them the preference to any other trifles that were +offered them; they soon rejected paper when they found it was not water +proof; nor was the cloth of Otaheite held in much estimation by them; +but the cloths of English manufacture they highly valued. The timber +here is very good, and fit for almost all purposes, except masts; +besides fish, which is in great plenty, here are shags, and some other +kinds of wildfowl, in abundance. + +The Endeavour having left the sound, steered eastward, and about six +o’clock in the evening they were greatly alarmed at their being carried, +by the rapidity of the current, very close to one of the two islands +which lie off Cape Koamaroo, at the entrance of the sounds. The ship was +in such imminent danger, that they expected every minute she would be +dashed to pieces; but letting go an anchor, and veering one hundred and +sixty fathoms of cable, she was brought up, when they were not above two +cables length from the rocks: in this situation they were obliged to +wait for the ebb of the tide, which was not till after midnight; at +three o’clock in the morning they weighed anchor, and a fine breeze +springing up soon after, they were carried through the streight with +great velocity. At the entrance of the streight, on the north-side, +there is a small island, which was named _Entry Island_. The narrowest +part of this streight, which was called _Cooke’s Streight_, is between +Cape Tierawitte and Cape Koamaroo; it is about thirteen miles long and +fourteen broad; the safest passage is on the north-east shore, the other +being rocky and dangerous. The two eastern points of the streight +Captain Cook named _Cape Palliser_ and _Cape Campbell_; the first is in +latitude 41 deg. 44 min. south; longitude 183 deg. 45 min. west; and the +latter in latitude 41 deg. 34 min. south-east, and longitude 183 deg. 58 +min. west. The Endeavour was now about three leagues from land, facing a +deep bay, which was called _Cloudy Bay_. Some of the gentlemen on board +expressing a doubt that Eahienomauwe was not an island, the Endeavour +steered south-east, in order to ascertain whether it was or not; upon +the wind’s shifting, she stood eastward, and steered all night +north-east by east. They were off Cape Palliser next morning (the 8th) +when they discovered that the land reached away to the north-east +towards Cape Turnagain. Three canoes came off in the afternoon, with +several people in them; they made a good appearance, and their canoes +were ornamented like those of the Indians of the northern coast. They +came on board without the least hesitation, and behaved very civilly; a +mutual exchange of presents took place, which was the first instance +they met with of such courtesy among any of the Indians. By their asking +for _Whow_, which signified nails, it was imagined they had heard of the +Endeavour’s people from the inhabitants of some other place where she +had touched. They resembled the natives of Tolaga Bay in their dress. +One old man was tataowed in a very remarkable manner; he was likewise +marked with a streak of red paint across the nose, and over both cheeks; +his hair was quite white as well as his beard. His garment was made of +flax, with a wrought border, under which was a kind of petticoat, made +of a cloth called Aooree Waow; his ears were decorated with teeth and +pieces of green stone. His voice was soft and low, and he appeared, upon +the whole, to be a person of distinguished rank. These Indians retired +greatly satisfied with the presents they had received; and the +Endeavour, after parting from them, steered coastwise, till the 9th in +the morning, which being a clear day, it was easily determined that +Eahienomauwe was certainly an island. + +On the 14th of February about sixty Indians, in four double canoes, came +within a stone’s cast of the ship, which they beheld with surprise. +Tupia endeavoured to persuade them to approach nearer, which they +refused, and made towards the shore, but did not reach it till after it +was dark. From the behaviour of these people, the place from whence they +came was called the _Island of Lookers-on_. On the 17th of this month +they saw an island, five leagues from the coast of Tovy Poenammoo, which +was called after the name of Mr. Banks. This island appeared to be +inhabited, as they saw a few Indians on it, and in one place beheld the +smoke of a fire. As no farther signs of land appeared to the southward, +they steered to the west on Sunday the 18th, and made various way till +the 23d, when it fell calm. Mr. Banks took this opportunity to go a +shooting in his boat; when he shot some Port Egmont hens, like those +found on the island of Faro, and were the first they had seen on this +coast. On Sunday the 25th they saw a point of land, in 45 deg. 35 min. +south latitude, which Captain Cook named CAPE SAUNDERS, in honour of the +Admiral of that name. They kept at a small distance from the shore, +which is interspersed with hills that are green, and abound in trees; +but they did not see a single inhabitant. They had various winds and +seas till the 4th of March, when they saw several whales and seals.--On +the 9th they saw a ledge of rocks, and soon afterwards another ledge, +three leagues from the shore, which they passed to the north during the +night, and discovered the others under their bow at day-break. Thus they +had a narrow escape from destruction; and these ledges of rocks were +denominated the TRAPS, from their being adapted to entrap the unwary. +The southermost point of this land they called SOUTH CAPE, and indeed it +proved to be the southern extremity of the whole country. + +In the morning they sailed northward, and, on the day following, +discovered a barren rock, about a mile in circumference, very high, and +five leagues from the main land. This was called SOLANDER’S ISLAND. On +the 13th they discovered a bay, which contains several islands, behind +which, if there be depth of water, there must be shelter from all winds. +Captain Cook called this DUSKY-BAY, and it is remarkable for having five +high, peaked rocks, lying off it, which look like the thumb and four +fingers of a man’s hand; whence it was denominated POINT FIVE FINGERS. +Three leagues to the south of Dusky Bay lies the westermost point of +land on the whole coast, which was therefore called WEST-CAPE. + +On the 14th they passed a small narrow opening in the land, where there +appeared to be a good harbour, formed by an island. On the land behind +it were mountains covered with snow. On the 16th they passed a point, +consisting of high red cliffs, which received the name of CASCADE POINT, +from a cascade of water which fell down it in several small streams. On +the 18th in the morning they observed the vallies as well as the +mountains covered with snow, which they thought had fallen in the night, +when they had rain at sea. On the 23d they gave the name of _Rock’s +Point_ to a head of land, off which lay some rocks above the water. + +They had now almost passed the whole of the north-west coast of Tovy +Poenammoo; the face of the country afforded nothing worth notice, but a +ridge of rocks of a stupendous height, “which Dr. Hawkesworth describes +as totally barren and naked, except where they are covered with snow, +which is to be seen in large patches in many parts of them, and has +probably lain there ever since the creation of the world; a prospect +more rude, craggy, and desolate than this country affords from the sea, +cannot possibly be conceived; for as far inland as the eye can reach, +nothing appears but the summits of rocks, which stand so near together, +that, instead of vallies, there is only fissures between them.” + +By the 27th they had sailed round the whole country, and determined to +depart from the coast, as soon as they had taken in a stock of water. +For this purpose the Captain went ashore in the long-boat, and found an +excellent watering-place, and a proper birth for the ship; which being +moored, they began filling their casks; while the carpenter and his crew +were employed in cutting wood. On the 30th the Captain, accompanied by +Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, went in the pinnace to examine the bay, and +the land on its borders, on which the two last mentioned gentlemen found +several plants, of a species they had not seen before. They saw no +inhabitants; but found several Indian huts, which appeared to have been +long deserted. When they returned on board in the evening, the ship was +ready to sail, all the wood and water being on board. A council of the +officers was now held, as to the passage they should take to England; +when it was resolved to return by the East Indies, and with that view to +steer for the east coast of New Holland, and then follow the direction +of that coast to the northward. + +This resolution being taken, they sailed at day-break, on Saturday March +31, 1770, and taking their departure from an eastern point, which they +had seen on the 23d, they called it CAPE FAREWELL. The bay from which +they sailed was named ADMIRALTY BAY, and the two Capes thereof CAPE +STEPHENS, and CAPE JACKSON, the names of the then Secretaries to the +Board of Admiralty. Between the island and Cape Farewell is a bay, which +they called BLIND BAY, and which Captain Cook supposes, to be the same +that is distinguished in Tasman’s Voyage, by the name of Murderers Bay. + +We shall now proceed to give such an account of the country and its +inhabitants, as could be acquired during the circumnavigation of the +coast. Abel Jansen Tasman, a Dutchman, was the first European that made +a discovery of NEW ZEALAND, to which he gave the name of STAATEN LAND, +that is, the land of the States General. Tasman never went on shore, as +the Indians attacked him soon after he came to an anchor, in the bay to +which he gave the name of Murderers Bay. From the time of Tasman’s +discovery, which was in December 1642, till the present voyage, the +whole country, except that part which Tasman saw, remained totally +unknown, and has been supposed to be part of a southern continent; but +it now proves to be two large islands, separated by a streight, of the +breadth of about twelve miles. + +The situation of these islands is between 34 and 48 degrees of south +latitude, and 181 and 194 degrees of west longitude. The natives call +the northern island Eaheinomauwe, and the southermost Tovy Paenammoo. + +Eaheinomauwe, though hilly, and in some places mountainous, is well +stored with wood, and there is a rivulet in every valley. The soil of +the vallies is light, but is so fertile, as to be well adapted for the +plentiful production of all sorts of the fruits, plants, and corn of +Europe; the inhabitants of which, if a settlement should be effected, +might supply themselves with the necessaries and even luxuries of life, +without any extraordinary exertion of their industry. The summer is more +equally warm, though not hotter than in England; and it is imagined, +from the vegetables that were found, that the winter is not so severe. + +Dogs and rats are the only quadrupedes that were seen, and of the latter +only a very few. The inhabitants breed the dogs for the sole purpose of +eating them. There are seals and whales on the coast; and they once saw +a sea-lion. The birds are hawks, owls, quails; and there are song-birds, +whose note is wonderfully melodious. There are ducks and shags of +several sorts, not unlike those of Europe; and the gannet, which is +exactly the same. The sea-coast is visited by albatrosses, sheerwaters, +pintados and penguins, descriptions of which have been given in other +voyages. The insects are flesh-flies, beetles, butterflies, sand-flies +and musquitos. + +Tovy Poenammoo appears to be a barren country, is very mountainous, and +almost destitute of inhabitants. + +The sea which washes these islands abounds with fish, which are equally +delicate and wholesome food. They seldom came to anchor but they catched +enough, with hook and line only, to supply the whole ship’s crew: and, +when they fished with nets, every mess in the ship, except those who +were too indolent, salted as much as supplied them when at sea for +several weeks after. The fish was not less various in kind than +plentiful in quantity: there were many sorts they had never before seen; +but the sailors readily gave names to all of them. They had several +sorts of mackrel, one of which was the same as we eat in England. These +fish were catched by the natives in immense quantities, and sold to the +crew on the most moderate terms: but the richest dainty these seas +afforded was the sea cray-fish, which differ from those seen in England, +by having more prickles on the back, and being red when first catched. +These they purchased of the natives on the north coast, who dive for +them, and find where they lie with their feet. They had several kinds of +skate, and a kind of dog-fish, of a more delicate flavour, though +otherwise similar to the skate eaten in London. Eels, congers, clams, +oysters, cockles, and flat-fish, resembling both soles and flounders, +were likewise found in great plenty on this coast. + +This country abounds with forests, filled with very large, strait, and +clean timber. There is one tree about the size of an oak, which was +distinguished by a scarlet flower, that appeared to be composed of +several fibres; and another which grows in swampy ground, very strait +and tall, bearing small bunches of berries, and a leaf resembling that +of the yew tree. About four hundred species of plants were found, all of +which are unknown in England, except garden night-shade, sow-thistle, +two or three kinds of fern, and one or two sorts of grass. They found +wild celery, and a kind of cresses, in great abundance, on the sea +shore; and of eatable plants raised by cultivation, only coccos, yams, +and sweet potatoes. There are plantations of many acres of these yams +and potatoes. The inhabitants likewise cultivate the gourd; and the +Chinese paper mulberry-tree is to be found, but in no abundance. There +is only one shrub or tree in this country which produces fruit, and that +is a kind of berry almost tasteless: but they have a plant which answers +all the uses of hemp and flax. There are two kinds of this plant, the +leaves of one of which are yellow, and the other a deep red, and both of +them resemble the leaves of flags. Of these leaves they make lines and +cordage, and much stronger than any thing of the kind in Europe. These +leaves they likewise split into breadths, and tying the slips together, +form their fishing-nets. Their common apparel, by a simple process, is +made from the leaves, and their finer, by another preparation, is made +from the fibers. This plant is found both on high and low ground, in dry +mould, and in deep bogs; but as it grows largest in the latter, that +seems to be its proper soil. + +Our adventurers were of opinion, that no part of this country is peopled +but the sea coast; so that the number of inhabitants is greatly +disproportioned to the extent of country; and the settling a colony +there, is recommended as an object worthy the notice of Great Britain. + +The men of this country are as large as the largest Europeans. Their +complexion is brown, but little more so than that of a Spaniard. They +are full of flesh, but not lazy and luxurious; and are stout and well +shaped. The women possess not that delicacy which distinguishes the +European ladies; but their voice is singularly soft, which, as the dress +of both sexes is similar, chiefly distinguishes them from the men. The +men are active in a high degree; their hair is black, and their teeth +are white and even. The features of both sexes are regular; they enjoy +perfect health, and live to a very advanced age. They are of the +gentlest dispositions, and treat each other with the utmost kindness: +but they are perpetually at war, every little district being at enmity +with all the rest. This is owing, most probably, to the want of food in +sufficient quantities, at certain times. They have neither black cattle, +sheep, hogs, nor goats; so that their chief food being fish, and that +not at all times to be obtained, they are in danger of dying through +hunger. They have a few, and but a very few dogs; and when no fish is to +be got, they have only vegetables, such as yams and potatoes, to feed +on; and if, by any accident, these fail them, their situation must be +deplorable. This will account for their shocking custom of eating the +bodies which are slain in battle; for he who fights through mere hunger, +will not scruple to eat the adversary he has killed. + +Notwithstanding this custom respecting their enemies, the circumstances +and temper of these people are in favour of those who shall settle among +them as a colony. They are in need of protection; and their dispositions +are so sweet, that it would be an easy task to attach them by kindness. +Civilization would be a blessing to people, whom nature has barely +furnished with the necessaries of life. + +The inhabitants of New Zealand are as modest and reserved in their +behaviour and conversation as the most polite nations of Europe. The +women, indeed, were not dead to the softer impressions; but their mode +of consent was, in their idea, as harmless as the consent to marriage +with us, and equally binding for the stipulated time. If any of the +English addressed one of their women, he was informed, that the consent +of her friends must be obtained, which usually followed, on his making a +present. This done, he was obliged to treat his temporary wife at least +as delicately as we do in England. A gentleman who sailed in the +Endeavour having addressed a family of some rank, received an answer, of +which the following is an exact translation.--“Any of these young ladies +will think themselves honoured by your addresses, but you must first +make me a suitable present, and you must then come and sleep with us on +shore, for daylight must by no means be a witness of what passes between +you.” + +These Indians anoint their hair with oil, melted from the fat of fish or +birds. The poorer people use that which is rancid, so that they smell +very disagreeable; but those of superior rank make use of that which is +fresh. They wear combs, both of bone and wood, which is considered as an +ornament when stuck upright in the hair. The men tie their hair in a +bunch on the crown of the head, and adorn it with the feathers of birds, +which they likewise sometimes place on each side of the temples. They +commonly wear short beards. The hair of the women sometimes flows over +the shoulders, and sometimes is cut short. Both sexes, but the men more +than the women, mark their bodies with black stains, called Amoco. In +general the women stain only the lips; but sometimes mark other parts +with black patches: the men, on the contrary, put on additional marks +from year to year, so that those who are very ancient are almost +covered. Exclusive of the amoco, they mark themselves with furrows. +These furrows make a hideous appearance, the edges being indented, and +the whole quite black. The ornaments of the face are drawn in the spiral +form, with equal elegance and correctness, both cheeks being marked +exactly alike; while the paintings on their bodies resemble fillagree +work, and the foliage in old chafed ornaments: but no two faces or +bodies are painted exactly after the same model. The people of New +Zealand frequently left the breech free from these marks; which the +inhabitants of Otaheite adorned beyond any other. These Indians likewise +paint their bodies, by rubbing them with red oker, either dry, or mixed +with oil. + +Their dress is formed of the leaves of the flag split into slips, which +are interwoven, and made into a kind of matting, the ends, which are +seven or eight inches in length, hanging out on the upper side. One +piece of this matting being tied over the shoulders, reaches to the +knees: the other piece being wrapped round the waist, falls almost to +the ground. These two pieces are fastened to a string, which, by means +of a bodkin of bone, is passed through, and tacks them together. The men +wear the lower garment only at particular times. + +They have two kinds of cloth besides the coarse matting or shag +abovementioned; one of which is as coarse, but beyond all proportion +stronger than English canvass; the other, which is formed of the fibres +of a plant, drawn into threads which cross and bind each other, +resembles the matting on which we place our dishes at table. They make +borders of different colours to both these sorts of cloth, resembling +girls samplars, and finished with great neatness and elegance. What they +consider as the most ornamental part of their dress is the fur of dogs, +which they cut into stripes, and sew on different parts of their +apparel. As dogs are not plenty, they dispose these stripes with great +œconomy. They have a few dresses, ornamented with feathers; and one man +was seen covered wholly with those of the red parrot. + +The women never tie their hair on the top of their head, nor adorn it +with feathers; and are less anxious about dress than the men. Their +lower garment is bound tight round them, except when they go a fishing, +and then they are careful that the men shall not see them. It once +happened that some of the ship’s crew surprized them in this situation, +when some of them hid themselves among the rocks, and the rest kept +their bodies under water till they had formed a girdle and apron of +weeds; in a word, their whole behaviour manifested the most refined +ideas of female modesty. + +The ears of both sexes are bored, and the holes stretched so as to admit +a man’s finger. The ornaments of their ears are feathers, cloth, bones, +and sometimes bits of wood; a great many of them made use of the nails +which were given them by the English, for this purpose, and the women +sometimes adorned their ears with the white down of the albatross, which +they spread before and behind the hole, in a large bunch. They likewise +hung to their ears by strings, chissels, bodkins, the teeth of dogs, and +the teeth and nails of their deceased friends. The arms and ancles of +the women are adorned with shells and bones, or any thing else through +which they can pass a string. The men wear a piece of green talc, or +whalebone, with the resemblance of a man carved on it, hanging to a +string round the neck. They saw one man who had the gristle of his nose +perforated, and a feather being passed through it, projected over each +cheek. + +These people shew less ingenuity in the structure of their houses, than +in any thing else belonging to them; they are from sixteen to +twenty-four feet long, ten or twelve wide, and six or eight in height. +The frame is of slight sticks of wood, and the walls and roof are made +of dry grass pretty firmly compacted. Some of them are lined with the +bark of trees, and the ridge of the house is formed by a pole, which +runs from one end to the other. The door is only high enough to admit a +person crawling on hands and knees and the roof is sloping. There is a +square hole near the door, serving both for window and chimney, near +which is the fire-place. A plank is placed near the door, adorned with a +sort of carving, and this they consider as an ornamental piece of +furniture. The side walls and roof projecting two or three feet beyond +the walls at each end, form a sort of portico, where benches are placed +to sit on. The fire is made in the middle of a hollow square in the +floor, which is enclosed with wood or stone. They sleep near the walls, +where the ground is covered with straw for their beds. + +Some who can afford it, and whose families are large, have three or four +houses, enclosed within a court yard. Their cloaths, arms, feathers, +some ill-made tools, and a chest, in which all these are deposited, form +all the furniture of the inside of the house. Their hammers to beat +fern-root, gourds to hold water, and baskets to contain provisions, are +placed without the house. + +One house was found near forty feet long, twenty wide, and fourteen +high. Its sides were adorned with carved planks of workmanship superior +to the rest; but the building appeared to have been left unfinished. + +Though the people sleep warm enough at home, they seem to despise the +inclemency of the weather, when they go in search of fish or fern-roots. +Sometimes, indeed, they place a small defence to windward; but +frequently sleep under bushes, with their arms placed round them, +without the least shelter whatever. + +Besides the fern-root, which serves them for bread, they feed on +albatrosses, penguins, and some other birds. Whatever they eat is either +roasted or baked, as they have no vessel in which water can be boiled. + +They saw no plantations of coccos, potatoes and yams, to the southward, +though there were many in the northern parts.--The natives drink no +other liquor than water, and enjoy perfect and uninterrupted +health.--When wounded in battle, the wound heals in a very short time +without the application of medicine; and the very old people carry no +other marks of decay about them than the loss of their hair and teeth, +and a failure of their muscular strength:--but enjoy an equal share of +health and chearfulness with the youngest.--Such are the happy effects +of exercise and temperance! + +The canoes of this country are not unlike the whale-boats of New +England, being long and narrow. The larger sort seem to be built for +war, and will hold from thirty to one hundred men. One of these at +Tolaga measured near seventy feet in length, six in width, and four in +depth. It was sharp at the bottom, and consisted of three lengths, about +two or three inches thick, and tied firmly together with strong +plaiting: each side was formed of one entire plank, about twelve inches +broad, and about an inch and a half thick, which were fitted to the +bottom part with equal strength and ingenuity. Several thwarts were laid +from one side to the other, to which they were securely fastened, in +order to strengthen the canoes. + +Some few of their canoes, at Mercury Bay and Opoorage, are all made +entirely of one trunk of wood, which is made hollow by fire: but by far +the greater part are built after the plan above described. The smaller +boats, which are used chiefly in fishing, are adorned at head and stern +with the figure of a man, the eyes of which are composed of the white +shells of sea-ears, a tongue of enormous size is thrust out of the +mouth, and the whole face is a picture of the most absolute deformity. +The grander canoes, which are intended for war, are ornamented with open +work, and covered with fringes of black feathers, which gives the whole +an air of perfect elegance: the side boards, which are carved in a rude +manner, are embellished with tufts of white feathers. + + [Illustration: _A Branch of the Bread-fruit Tree._ + _A War Canoe._] + +These vessels are rowed with a kind of paddles, between five and fix +feet in length, the blade of which is a long oval, gradually decreasing +till it reaches the handle; and the velocity with which they row with +these paddles is really surprising. Their sails are composed of a kind +of mat or netting, which is extended between two upright poles, one of +which is fixed on each side. Two ropes, fastened to the top of each +pole, serve instead of sheets. The vessels are steered by two men, +having each a paddle, and sitting in the stern; but they can only sail +before the wind, in which direction they move with considerable +swiftness. + +These Indians use axes, adzes and chissels, with which last they +likewise bore holes. The chissels are made of jasper, or of the bone of +a man’s arm; and their axes and adzes of a hard black stone. They use +their small jasper tools till they are blunted, and then throw them +away, having no instrument to sharpen them with. The Indians at Tolaga +having been presented with a piece of glass, drilled a hole through it, +and hung it round the neck. A small bit of jasper is thought to have +been the tool they used in drilling it. + +Their tillage of the ground is excellent, owing to the necessity they +are under of cultivating or running the risk of starving. At Tegadoo +their crops were just put into the ground, and the surface of the field +was as smooth as a garden, the roots were ranged in regular lines, and +to every root there remained a hillock. A long narrow stake, sharpened +to an edge at bottom, with a piece fixed across a little above it, for +the convenience of driving it into the ground with the foot, supplies +the place both of plough and spade. The soil being light, their work is +not very laborious, and with this instrument alone they will turn up +ground of six or seven acres in extent. + +The seine, the large net which has been already noticed, is produced by +the united labour, and is probably the joint property of a whole town. +Their fish-hooks are of shell or bone; and they have baskets of +wicker-work to hold the fish. + +Their warlike weapons are spears, darts, battle-axes, and the +patoo-patoo. The spear, which is pointed at each end, is about sixteen +feet in length, and they hold it in the middle, so that it is difficult +to parry a push from it. Whether they fight in boats or on shore, the +battle is hand to hand, so that they must make bloody work of it. They +trust chiefly in the patoo patoo, which is fastened to their wrists by +means of a strong strap, that it may not be wrenched out of their hand. +These are worn in the girdles of people of a superior rank, as a +military ornament. They have a kind of staff of distinction, which is +carried by the principal warriors. It is formed of a whale’s rib, is +quite white, and adorned with carvings, feathers, and the hair of their +dogs; and they sometimes carried a stick six feet long, inlaid with +shells, and otherwise adorned like the military staff. This honourable +mark of distinction was commonly borne by the old men. + + [Illustration: _A New Zealand Warrior in the Dress of his Country._] + +When they came to attack the English, there was usually one or more thus +distinguished in each canoe. It was their custom to stop at about fifty +or sixty yards distance from the ship, when the commanding officer, +arising from his seat, and putting on a garment of dog’s skin, used to +direct them how to proceed. When they were too far from the ship to +reach it either with stone or lance, they cried out, _Haromai, haromai, +harre uta a patoo-patoo oge_.--“Come to us, come on shore, and we will +kill you all with our patoo-patoos.” During these menaces they +approached the ship, till they came along-side, talking peaceably at +intervals, and answering whatever questions they were asked. Then again +their threats were renewed, till, imagining the sailors were afraid of +them, they began the war-song and dance--an engagement always followed, +and sometimes continued till the firing of small shot repulsed them; at +others, only till they had satiated their vengeance by throwing a few +stones on board the ship. + + [Illustration: _The Manner in which a Native of Otaheite defies his + enemy by the wry Mouth._ + _The manner in which the New Zealand Warriors defy their Enemies._] + +In the war-dance, their motions are numerous, their limbs are distorted, +and their faces are agitated. Their tongue hangs out of their mouths to +a vast length, and their eye-lids are drawn so as to form a circle round +the eye; they shake their darts, brandish their spears, and wave their +patoo-patoos to and fro in the air. They accompany this dance with a +song, which is sung in concert; every strain ending with a loud and deep +sigh. There is an activity and vigour in their dancing, which is truly +admirable; and their idea of keeping time in music is such, that sixty +or eighty paddles will strike at once against the sides of their boats, +and make only one report. + +They sometimes sing, in times of peace, in a manner resembling the +war-song; but then they do not dance with it. The women, whose voices +are exceeding soft and harmonious, likewise sing in a melodious, but +mournful manner; and their songs appear as if sung in parts. Their +instruments of musick are, a shell, from which they produce a sound, +resembling that made by a common horn; and a wooden pipe, not superior +in musical found to a child’s whistle. + +These people fortify all their hippahs, or towns, of which there are +several between the bay of Plenty and queen Charlotte’s sound. In these +the inhabitants of those parts constantly reside; but near Tolaga, +Tegadoo, Hawk’s bay, and Poverty bay, there are no towns, only single +houses at a considerable distance apart. On the sides of the hills were +erected long stages, supplied with darts and stones, which were thought +to be retreats in time of battle, and on which, from their elevated +situation, they can combat the enemy with these weapons to great +advantage. In these repositories they store their dried fish and +fern-roots. The inhabitants of this part of the country were all subject +to Teratu, who resided near the bay of Plenty; and to their being thus +united under one Chief, they owed a security unknown to the inhabitants +of the other parts of the country. There were several inferior governors +in Teratus’s dominions, to whom the most implicit obedience was paid. +One of the inhabitants having robbed the English, complaint was made to +a Chief, who chastised him by kicking and striking him; while the thief +bore his punishment with unresisting humility. + +The inhabitants of the southern parts appeared to be co-partners in +their fishing-nets and fine apparel. The latter, which probably were +obtained in war, were kept in a little hut, destined for that use, in +the centre of the town, and the several parts of the nets, being made by +different families, were afterwards joined together for the common use. +The gentlemen imagined, that the employment of the men consisted in +cultivating the ground, making nets, catching birds, and fishing; while +the women were engaged in weaving cloth, procuring fern-roots, and shell +fish, and dressing food. + +With regard to religion, they acknowledge one superior being, and +several subordinate. Their mode of worship could not be learned, nor was +any place proper for that purpose seen. There was indeed a small square +area, encompassed with stones, in the middle of which hung a basket of +fern-roots on one of their spades. This they said was offered to the +gods, in the hope of a plentiful crop of provisions. + +The inhabitants of the southern district said, they disposed of their +dead by throwing them into the sea; but those of the north said, they +buried them in the ground: our adventurers, however, saw not the least +sign of any grave or monument; but the body of almost every inhabitant +bore the marks of wounds which they had given themselves, in token of +grief for the loss or their friends and relations. Some of these scars +were newly made, which is a proof that their friends had died while the +ship’s crew were there; yet no one saw any thing like a funeral, as +these islanders conceal every thing respecting the dead, with the utmost +caution. + +A great similitude was observed between the dress, furniture, boats and +nets of the New Zealanders, and those of the inhabitants of the +South-sea islands, which furnished a strong proof, that the common +ancestors of both were natives of the same country. Indeed the +inhabitants of these different places have a tradition, that their +ancestors migrated from another country many ages since; and they both +agree, that this country was called HEAWIGE. But perhaps a yet stronger +proof that their origin was the same, will arise from the similitude of +their language, of which the following is a specimen. + + NEW ZEALAND. OTAHEITE. + Whahine, Aheine, _A woman_. + Taata, Tata, _People_. + Heoo-oo, Eraowroo, _The hair_. + Erai, Irai, _The brow_. + Mata, Matau, _The eyes_. + Ahewh, Eahoo, _The nose_. + Paparinga, Paparea, _The cheeks_. + Ateraboo, Eoboo, _The belly_. + Apeto, Pito, _The navel_. + Heromai, Harre mai, _Come hither_. + Taro, Taro, _Coccos_. + Tahai, Tohe, _One_. + Rua, Rooa, _Two_. + Torou, Torhoo, _Three_. + Ha, Ha, _Four_. + Etu, Hitoo, _Seven_. + Iva, Iva, _Nine_. + Heneaho, Eneeho, _The teeth_. + +They sailed from Cape Farewell on the 31st of March 1770, and had fine +weather and a fair wind till the 9th of April, when they saw a tropic +bird, in the latitude of 38 degrees 29 minutes south, a sight very +unusual in so high a latitude. On the 15th they saw an egg-bird and a +gannet; and on the day following a small land-bird perched on the +rigging, from which they concluded they were near land; but they found +no ground with 120 fathom. On the 18th, in the morning, they saw a +pintado-bird, and some Port Egmont hens, an infallible sign that land +was not very distant. At six o’clock in the morning of the 19th they +discovered land four or five leagues distant; the southermost part of +which was called POINT HICKS, in compliment to Mr. Hicks, the first +Lieutenant, who made the discovery of it. At noon they discovered +another point of the same land, rising in a round hillock, extremely +like the Ram-Head at the entrance of Plymouth Sound, for which reason +Captain Cook gave it the same name. What they had yet seen of the land +was low and even, and the inland parts were green, and covered with +wood. They now saw three water-spouts at the same time, one of which +continued a quarter of an hour. At six in the evening the northermost +point on the main land, which was distant about two leagues, was named +CAPE HOWE. On the following day they had a distant view of the country, +which was in general covered with wood, and interspersed with several +small lawns. It appeared to be inhabited, as smoke was seen in several +places. At four o’clock the next morning they saw a high mountain, +which, from its shape, they called MOUNT DROMEDARY, under which there is +a point, which received the name of POINT DROMEDARY. In the evening they +were opposite a point of land which rose perpendicularly, and was called +POINT UPRIGHT. On Sunday the 22d they were so near the shore, as to see +several of the inhabitants on the coast, who were of a very dark +complexion, if not perfect negroes. At noon they saw a remarkably peaked +hill, to which the Captain gave the name of the PIGEON-HOUSE, from its +resemblance to such a building. The trees on this island were both tall +and large; but they saw no place fit to give shelter even to a boat. + +The Captain gave the name of CAPE GEORGE to a point of land which he +discovered on St. George’s day: about two leagues to the north of which +the sea formed a bay, which, from its shape, was called LONG NOSE; eight +leagues from which lies RED-POINT, so called from the colour of the soil +in its neighbourhood. On the 27th they saw several of the inhabitants +walking along the shore, four of them carrying a canoe on their +shoulders: but as they did not attempt coming off to the ship, the +Captain took Messrs. Banks and Solander and Tupia in the yawl, and +employed four men to row them to that part of the shore where the +natives appeared; near which four small canoes laid close in land. The +Indians sat on the rocks till the yawl was within a quarter of a mile of +the shore, and then ran away into the woods. The surf beating violently +on the beach, prevented the boat from landing; the gentlemen were +therefore obliged to make what observations they could at a distance. +The canoes resembled the smaller sort of those of New Zealand. They saw, +with longing eyes, a great number of cabbage-trees on shore: the other +trees were of the palm-kind, and there was no underwood among them. + +At five in the evening they returned to the ship, and a light breeze +springing up, they sailed to the northward, where they discovered +several people on shore round a fire, who, on their approach, retired to +an eminence; soon after which two canoes arrived on the shore, and four +men, who came in them, joined the others. The pinnace having been sent +a-head to sound, arrived near the spot where the Indians had stationed +themselves, on which one of them hid himself among the rocks near the +landing place, and the others retreated farther up the hill. The pinnace +keeping along shore, the Indians walked nearly in a line with her. They +were armed with long pikes, and a weapon resembling a cymeter, and, by +various signs and words, invited the boat’s crew to land. Those who did +not follow the boat, having observed the approach of the ship, +brandished their weapons, and threw themselves into threatening +attitudes. The bodies, thighs and legs of two of these, were painted +with white streaks, and their faces were almost covered with a white +powder. They talked to each other with great emotion, and each of them +held a kind of cymeter in his hand. + +The ship having come to an anchor, they observed a few huts, in which +were some of the natives; and saw some canoes, in each of which was a +man busily employed in striking fish with a kind of spear. They had +anchored opposite a village of about eight houses, and observed an old +woman and three children come out of a wood, laden with fuel for a fire: +they were met by three smaller children, all of whom, as well as the +woman, were quite naked. The old woman frequently looked at the ship +with the utmost indifference, and, as soon as she had made a fire, the +fishermen brought their canoes on shore, and they set about dressing +their dinner with as much composure, as if a ship had been no +extraordinary sight. + +Having formed a design of landing, they manned the boats, and took Tupia +with them; and they had no sooner come near the shore, than two men +advanced, as if to dispute their setting foot on land. They were each of +them armed with different weapons. They called out aloud in a harsh +tone, _warra warra wai_, the meaning of which Tupia did not understand. +The Captain threw them beads, nails and other trifles, which they took +up, and seemed to be delighted with. He then made signs that he wanted +water, and used every possible means to convince them that no injury was +intended. They now made signs to the boat’s crew to land, on which they +put the boat in; but they had no sooner done so, than the two Indians +came again to oppose them. A musquet was now fired between them, on the +report of which one of them dropped a bundle of lances, which he +instantly snatched up again in great haste. One of them then threw a +stone at the boat, on which the Captain ordered a musket loaded with +small shot to be fired, which wounding the eldest of them on the legs, +he retired hastily to one of their houses, which stood at some little +distance. The people in the boats now landed, imagining that the wound +which this man had received would put an end to the contest; in this, +however, they were mistaken, for he immediately returned with a kind of +shield, of an oval figure, painted white in the middle, with two holes +in it to see through. They now advanced with great intrepidity, and both +discharged their lances at the boat’s crew, but did not wound any of +them. Another musket was now fired at them, on which they threw another +lance, and then took to their heels. The crew now went up to the huts, +in one of which they found the children, who had secreted themselves +behind some bark. They looked at them, but left them without their +knowing they had been seen; and having thrown some pieces of cloth, +ribbons, beads, and other things into the hut, they took several of +their lances, and reimbarked in the boat. The canoes on this coast were +about thirteen feet in length, each made of the bark of a single tree, +tied up at the ends, and kept open in the middle by means of sticks +placed across them; their paddles are very small, and they use two at a +time. + +They now sailed to the north point of the bay, where they found a plenty +of fresh water. On taking a view of the hut where they had seen the +children, they had the mortification to find that every Indian was fled, +and that they had left all the presents behind them. The Captain now +went in the pinnace to inspect the bay, and saw several of the natives, +who all fled as he approached them. Some men having been sent to get +wood and water, they no sooner, came on board to dinner, than the +natives came down to the place, and examined the casks with great +attention, but did not offer to remove them. When the people were on +shore in the afternoon, about twenty of the natives, all armed, advanced +within a trifling distance of them, and then stopped, while two of their +number approached still nearer. Mr. Hicks, the commanding officer, on +shore, went towards them, with presents in his hands, and endeavoured, +by every possible means, to assure them of his friendly intentions, but +to no purpose, for they retired before he came up to them. In the +evening Messrs. Banks and Solander went with the Captain to a cove north +of the bay, where they catched between three and four hundred weight of +fish, in four hauls. + +On Monday the 30th the natives came down to the huts before it was +light, and were repeatedly heard to shout very loud; and soon after +day-break they were seen on the beach; but quickly retired about a mile, +and kindled several fires in the woods. This day some of the ship’s crew +being employed in cutting grass, at a distance from the main body of +those on shore, a party of Indians made towards them; on which the +grass-cutters retreated to the main body, while the natives pursued +them; but stopping within fifty or sixty yards of them, they shouted +several times, and retired to the woods. In the evening they behaved +exactly in the same manner, when the Captain followed them alone and +unarmed for some time, but they still retired as he approached. + +On Tuesday May the first, the south point of the bay was named +_Sutherland Point_, one of the seamen, of the name of Sutherland, having +died that day, and been buried on shore. This day Messrs. Banks, +Solander, the Captain and a few other gentlemen, went on shore, and left +more presents in the huts, such as looking-glasses, combs, &c. but the +former ones had not been taken away.--Making an excursion about the +country, they found it agreeably variegated with wood and lawn. The +trees being strait and tall, and without underwood, the country might be +cultivated without cutting down one of them. The grass grows in large +tufts, almost close to each other, and there is a great plenty of it. In +this excursion they met with many places where the inhabitants had slept +without shelter; but they saw only one man, who ran away the moment he +beheld them. They left more presents, in their huts, and at their +sleeping-places, in hopes of producing a friendly intercourse. They saw +the dung of an animal which fed on grass, and traced the foot-steps of +another, which had claws like a dog, and was probably about the size of +a wolf: they discovered the track of a small animal, whose foot was like +that of a pole-cat; and saw one animal alive, about the size of a +rabbit. They found some wood which had been felled, and the bark +stripped off by the natives; and saw several growing trees, in which +steps had been cut, for the convenience of ascending them. The trees +abounded with a vast variety of beautiful birds, among which were +cockatoos, parroquets and loriquets, which flew in large flocks. + +The second Lieutenant, Mr. Gore, having been with a boat to dredge for +oysters, saw some Indians, who made signs for him to come on shore, +which he declined. Having finished his business, he sent the boat away, +and went by land with a Midshipman, to join the party that was getting +water. In their way they met with more than twenty of the natives, who +followed them so close, as to come within a few yards of them. Mr. Gore +stopped and faced them; on which the Indians stopped also, and when he +proceeded again they followed him; but they did not attack him, though +they had each man his lance. The Indians coming in sight of the +Waterers, stood still at the distance of a quarter of a mile, while Mr. +Gore and his companion reached their shipmates in safety. Two or three +of the Waterers now advanced towards the Indians; but observing they did +not retire, they very imprudently turned about, and retreated hastily; +this apparent cowardice inspirited the savages, who discharged four +lances at the fugitives, which flying beyond them, they escaped unhurt. +They now stopped to pick up the lances, on which the Indians retired in +their turn. At this instant the Captain came up, with Messrs. Banks, +Solander, and Tupia; and advancing, made signs of friendship; but the +poor natives would not wait their coming up to them. + +On the following day they again went on shore, where many plants were +collected by Dr. Solander and Mr. Banks. They saw several parties of the +Indians, who all ran away on their approach. Tupia having learnt to +shoot, frequently strayed alone to shoot parrots; and the Indians +constantly fled from him with as much precipitation as from the English. +On the 3d of May, fourteen or fifteen Indians, in the same number of +canoes, were engaged in striking fish within half a mile of the +watering-place. At this time a party of the ship’s crew were shooting +near the fishermen, one of whom Mr. Banks observed to haul up his canoe +on the beach, and approach the people who were shooting. He watched +their motions, unobserved by them, for more than a quarter of an hour, +then put off his boat, and returned to his fishing. + +At this time the Captain, with Dr. Solander and another gentleman, went +to the head of the bay to try to form some connexion with the Indians. +On their first landing they found several Indians on shore, who +immediately retreated to their canoes, and rowed off. They went up the +country, where they found the soil to be a deep black mould, which +appeared to be calculated for the production of any kind of grain. They +saw some of the finest meadows that were ever beheld, and met with a few +rocky places, the stone of which is sandy, and seemed to be admirably +adapted for building. In the woods they found a tree bearing cherries, +if shape and colour may entitle them to that name, the juice of which +was agreeably tart. They now returned to their boat, and seeing a fire +at a distance, rowed towards it, but the Indians fled on their approach. +Near the beach they found seven canoes, and as many fires, from whence +they judged that each fisherman had dressed his own dinner. There were +oysters lying on the spot, and some muscles roasting on the fire. They +ate of these fish, and left them some beads and other trifles in return. +They now returned to the ship; and in the evening Mr. Banks went out +with his gun, and saw a great number of quails, some of which he shot, +and they proved to be the same kind as those of England. + +On the following day a Midshipman having strayed from his companions, +came suddenly on an old man and woman, and some children, who were +sitting naked under a tree together. They seemed afraid of him, but did +not run away. The man wore a long beard, and both him and the woman were +grey-headed; but the woman’s hair was cut short. This day, likewise, two +of another party met with six Indians on the border of a wood, one of +whom calling out very loud, a lance was thrown from the wood, which +narrowly missed them. The Indians now ran off; and, on looking round, +they saw a youth descend from a tree, who had doubtless been placed +there for the purpose of throwing the lance at them. This day the +Captain went up the country on the north-side of the bay, which he found +to resemble the moory grounds of England; but the land was thinly +covered with plants about sixteen inches high. The hills rise gradually +behind each other to a great distance, and between them is marshy +ground. Those who had been sent out to fish this day met with great +success; and the second Lieutenant struck a fish called the sting-ray, +which weighed near two hundred and fifty pounds. The next morning a fish +of the same kind was catched, which weighed three hundred and fifty +pounds. + +The name of BOTANY BAY was given to this place, from the large number of +plants collected by Messrs. Banks and Solander. This country produces +two kinds of wood which may be deemed timber; one of which is tall and +strait, like the pine, and the other is hard, heavy, and dark-coloured, +like _lignum vitæ_; it yields a red gum, like _sanguis draconis_, and +bears some resemblance to an English oak. There are mangroves in +abundance, several kinds of palm, and a few shrubs. Among other kinds of +birds, crows were found here, exactly like those of England. There is +great plenty of water-fowl among the flats of sand and mud; one of which +is shaped like a pelican, is larger than a swan, and has black and white +feathers. These banks of mud abound with cockles, muscles, oysters, and +other shell-fish, which greatly contribute towards the support of the +natives, who sometimes dress them on shore, and at other times in their +canoes. They likewise catch many other sorts of fish with hook and line. + +While captain Cook remained in the harbour, the English colours were +displayed on shore, daily, and the name of the ship, with the date of +the year, was carved on a tree near the place where they took in their +water. + +They sailed from BOTANY BAY on the 6th of May, 1770; at noon were off a +harbour which they called PORT JACKSON, and in the evening, near a bay, +to which they gave the name of BROKEN BAY. The next day, at noon, the +northermost land in sight projected so as to justify the calling it CAPE +THREE POINTS. On Wednesday the 9th, they saw two exceeding beautiful +rainbows, the colours of which were strong and lively; and those of the +inner one so bright, as to reflect its shadow on the water. They made a +complete semicircle, and the space between them was much darker than the +rest of the sky. On Thursday they passed a low rocky point, which was +named POINT STEPHENS, near which was an inlet, denominated PORT +STEPHENS. Next day they saw smoke in several places on the shore; and in +the evening discovered three remarkably high hills, near each other, +which the Captain named the THREE BROTHERS. + +On Sunday the 13th they saw the smoke of many fires on a point of land, +which was therefore called SMOKEY CAPE. As they proceeded northward from +BOTANY BAY, the land appeared high and well covered with wood. On +Tuesday morning, by the assistance of their glasses, they discovered +about a score of the Indians, each loaded with a bundle, which they +imagined to be palm-leaves, to thatch their houses. They traced them for +more than an hour, during which time they took not the least notice of +the ship; at length they left the beach, and were lost behind a hill, +which they gained by a gentle ascent.--At noon the Captain discovered a +high point of land, which he called CAPE BYRON. In the evening they +discovered breakers at a considerable distance from the shore; so that +they were obliged to tack, and get into deeper water; which having done, +they lay with the head of the vessel to the land till the next morning, +when they were astonished to find themselves farther to the southward +than they had been the preceding evening, notwithstanding they had a +southerly wind all night. In the morning they passed the breakers, near +a peaked mountain, which was named MOUNT WARNING; and the point off +which they lay was called POINT DANGER. The next day they saw more +breakers, near a point which was distinguished by the name of POINT +LOOK-OUT, to the north of which lies a bay, which Captain Cook called +MORETON’S BAY; and the north point of which he named CAPE MORETON. Near +this place are three hills, which were called the GLASS HOUSES, from the +very strong resemblance they bore to such buildings. + +On the 18th they descried a point so unequal, that it looks like two +small islands lying under the land; and it was therefore called DOUBLE +ISLAND POINT. At noon, by the help of glasses, they discovered some +sands, which lay in spots of several acres, which they observed were +moveable, and that some of them had not been long in their present +situation, as they saw trees half buried, and the tops of others still +green; likewise the naked trunks of some that had been destroyed by the +sand. At this time two beautiful water-snakes swam by the ship, which +seemed to be distinguished from land-snakes, only by their broad and +flat tails, which it was thought were useful to them in swimming. On the +19th they sailed by a point of land, on which a large number of the +Indians were assembled, from whence it was called INDIAN HEAD. They soon +afterwards saw many more of the natives, and observed smoke in the +day-time, and fires by night. The next day they saw a point, which was +named SANDY CAPE, from two large tracts of white sand that were on it. +They next passed a shoal which was called BREAK SEA SPIT, because they +had now smooth water, after having long encountered a high sea. They +had, for some days past, seen the sea-birds, called boobies, none of +which they had met with before; and which, from half an hour before +sun-rising, to half an hour after, were continually passing the ship in +large flights: from which it was conjectured, that there was a river or +inlet of shallow water to the southward, where they went to feed in the +day, returning in the evening to some islands to the northward. In +honour of Captain Hervey, this bay was called HERVEY’S BAY. + +On the 22d, by the help of their glasses, they discovered that the land +was covered with palm-nut trees, none of which they had seen since they +quitted the islands within the tropic. The next morning early the +Captain took a party of men, and being attended by Tupia, and the +several gentlemen on board, went on shore to examine the country. They +landed a little within the point of a bay, which led into a large +lagoon, by the sides of which grows the true mangrove, as it also does +on some bogs, and swamps of salt-water which they discovered. There were +many nests of a singular kind of ant, as green as grass, in the branches +of these mangroves. When the branches were disturbed they came forth in +great numbers, and bit the disturber most severely. These trees likewise +afforded shelter for immense numbers of green caterpillars, their bodies +were covered with hairs, which, on the touch, gave a pain similar to the +sting of a nettle, but much more acute. These insects ranged themselves +side by side on the leaves, thirty or forty together, in a very regular +manner. They saw, among the sand banks, many birds larger than swans, +which they imagined were pelicans; and they shot a kind of bustard, +which weighed seventeen pounds. This bird proved very delicate food, and +gave name to the place, which was called BUSTARD-BAY. They likewise shot +a duck of a most beautiful plumage, with a white beak. They found vast +numbers of oysters of various sorts, and, among the rest, some hammer +oysters of a curious kind. While the gentlemen were in the woods, +several of the natives came down and took a survey of the ship, and then +departed. The gentlemen on shore saw fires in many places, and repairing +to one of them, they found about a dozen small fires burning near each +other; but the people were gone, and had left some shells and bones of +fish they had just eaten. They likewise saw several pieces of soft bark, +about the length and breadth of a man, which they judged had been used +as beds. This kind of encampment was in a thicket well defended from the +wind; and as the place was much trodden, and there was no appearance of +a house, it was imagined that they spent their nights, as well as days, +in the open air: even Tupia shook his head, and exclaimed, _Taata Enos!_ +“Poor wretches!” They sailed the next morning, and on the day following +were a-breast of a point, which lying immediately under the tropic, the +Captain called CAPE CAPRICORN, on the west side of which they saw an +amazing number of large birds resembling the pelican, some of which were +near five feet high. + +On the 26th they stood between a range of almost barren islands, and the +main land, which is mountainous. They had here very shallow water, and +anchored in sixteen feet, which was not two feet more than the ship +drew. Mr. Banks tried to fish from the cabin windows, but the water was +too shallow. The ground indeed was covered with crabs, which greedily +seized the bait, and held it till they were above water. These crabs +were of two kinds, one of a very fine blue, with a white belly, and the +other marked with blue on the joints, and having three remarkable brown +spots on the back. The Captain having sent some men in a boat a-head to +sound, they returned with an account, that there was not water enough +for the ship to pass through, upon which they tacked about and stood +back again. In the morning they sailed to the northward, and to the +northermost point of land the Captain gave the name of CAPE MANIFOLD, +from the number of high hills appearing above it. Between this cape and +the shore is a bay called KEPPEL’S BAY, and some islands bearing the +name of the same gentleman. On the 28th, being determined to keep the +main land close aboard, which continued to tend away to the west, they +got among another cluster of islands; they were here again greatly +alarmed, having on a sudden but three fathom water, in a ripling tide; +they immediately put the ship about, and hoisted out the boats in search +of deeper water; after which they stood to the west with an easy sail, +and in the evening, came to the entrance of a bay. On the 29th, in the +morning, the master was sent with two boats to sound the bay; and the +ship was no sooner under sail, than the boats made the signal, and the +ship accordingly came to an anchor. As they observed the tide to flow +and ebb considerably, they imagined this bay to be the entrance of a +river which ran up the country: in this place therefore the Captain +intended to lay the ship a-shore and clean her bottom; and accordingly +landed, in search of a proper place for the purpose. + +In this excursion Messrs. Banks and Solander attended Captain Cook. They +found walking extremely incommodious, the ground being covered with +grass, the seeds of which were sharp, and bearded, so that they were +continually sticking in their cloaths, whence they worked forwards to +the flesh, by means of the beard. They were likewise tormented with the +perpetual stinging of musquetos. Several places were found convenient, +to lay the ship a-shore; but they could meet with no fresh water. In the +interior parts of the country they found gum-trees, on the branches of +which were white ants nests formed of clay, as big as a bushel. On +another tree they found black ants, which formed their lodging in the +body of it, after they had eaten away the pith; yet the trees were in a +flourishing condition. They found butterflies in such incredible +numbers, that whatever way they looked, many thousands were to be seen +in the air; while every bough and twig was covered with multitudes. They +likewise discovered on dry ground, where it was supposed to have been +left by the tide, a fish about the size of a minnow, having two strong +breast fins, with which it leaped away as nimbly as a frog: it did not +appear to be weakened by being out of water, nor even to prefer that +element to the land; for when seen in the water it leaped on shore, and +pursued its way. It was likewise remarked, that where there were small +stones projecting above the water, it chose rather to leap from one +stone to another, than to swim through the water. + +On the 30th the Captain went ashore very early, and having gained the +summit of a hill, took a survey of the coast, and adjacent islands; +which being done, he accompanied Dr. Solander up an inlet, which had +been discovered the preceding day; but the weather proving unfavourable, +they returned early to the ship, having seen only two Indians, who +followed the boat a considerable way along the shore; but the tide +running strong, they did not think it prudent to wait for them. This day +Mr. Banks went with a party on shore, and having met with a piece of +swampy ground, covered with mangroves, they resolved to pass it, which +they did, up to the knees in mud, and sometimes crawling on their hands, +when they had slipt between the branches of trees, which were interwoven +on the surface of the swamp. Having performed this disagreeable task, +they arrived at a spot where the natives appeared to have slept on the +grass, and where there were the remains of a fish supper, which had been +roasted by four small fires. The second Lieutenant, at another place, +saw the track of a large animal, near a gully of water: he likewise +heard the voices of the Indians, but did not see any. Two turtles were +seen at this place, some waterfowl, and a few small land-birds. + +As no water was to be found, the Captain called the inlet THIRSTY SOUND, +which they left on the 31st of May, and having sailed round three small +islands, anchored in fifteen fathom water. On the 1st of June they got +under sail, having a number of islands in sight, as far as the eye could +reach. On the second at noon they saw a high promontory, which was +called CAPE HILLSBOROUGH, and seemed to abound in wood and herbage, +distributed on hills, plains, and in vallies. There are a number of +small islands in this neighbourhood, on some of which they saw smoke +arising in different places. On Sunday the 3d they discovered a point, +which was named CAPE CONWAY, and between that and Cape Hillsborough a +bay, which took the name of REPULSE BAY. The land about CAPE CONWAY is +diversified by hills and dales, lawns and woods, and forms a +delightfully verdant appearance. By the help of their glasses they +discovered three people, on one of the islands, and a canoe, with an +outrigger, like those of Otaheite. They this day named the islands, +CUMBERLAND ISLANDS, in honour of the Duke; and a passage which they +discovered was called WITSUNDAY’S PASSAGE, from the day on which it was +seen. At day-break, on Monday, they were a-breast of a point, which took +the name of CAPE GLOUCESTER. Names were likewise this day given to three +other places, viz. HOLBORNE ISLE, EDGCUMBE BAY, and CAPE UPSTART, which +latter was so called, because it rises abruptly from the low lands that +surround it. + +On Tuesday, when near the shore, they saw very large columns of smoke +rising from the low-lands. This day they gave name to CLEAVELAND BAY, +the east point of which was called CAPE CLEAVELAND, and the west +MAGNETICAL ISLE, because the compass did not traverse well when they +were near it. The points, as well as the main land within them, lay +high, and form a barren, rugged and rocky coast. On the afternoon of +Thursday they saw several large columns of smoke, likewise some canoes, +and several natives, with some trees, that they thought were those of +cocoa-nut; in search of which fruit Messrs. Banks and Solander went +ashore with Lieutenant Hicks; but they returned in the evening with a +few plants, which they had gathered from the cabbage palm, and which had +been mistaken for the cocoa-tree. On Friday they gave the name of POINT +HILLOCK to a point of land; between which and Magnetical Isle the shore +forms HALIFAX BAY, which affords shelter from all winds. At six this +evening they were a-breast of a point of land, which was named Cape +Sandwich, near which lies ROCKINGHAM BAY. Hence they ranged northward +along the shore, towards a cluster of islands, on one of which about +forty men, women and children were standing together, and looking at the +ship with a curiosity never observed among these people before. The +north point of Rockingham bay was called DUNK ISLE, which is scarcely to +be distinguished from the shore, it lies so very near it. On Saturday +morning they were a-breast of some small islands, which were named +FRANKLAND’S ISLES; near which lie two places, which were called CAPE +GRAFTON and GREEN ISLAND. Here Messrs. Banks and Solander went ashore +with the Captain, whose chief view were to procure water, which not +being easily to be got, they soon returned on board, and the next day +arrived near TRINITY BAY, which was so called, because it was discovered +on Trinity Sunday. + +As no accident remarkably unfortunate had befallen our adventurers, +during a navigation of more than thirteen hundred miles, upon a coast +every where abounding with the most dangerous rocks and shoals; no name +expressive of distress had hitherto been given to any cape or point of +land which they had seen. But they now gave the name of CAPE TRIBULATION +to a point which they had just discovered, as they here became +acquainted with misfortune. + +This cape is in sixteen degrees six minutes south latitude, and 214 +degrees 39 minutes west longitude. + +At six in the evening they shortened sail, to avoid the danger of some +rocks, which were seen a-head, and to observe whether any islands lay in +the offing, as they were now near the latitude of those islands said to +have been discovered by Quiros. They kept standing off from six o’clock +till near nine, with a fine breeze and bright moon. They had got from +fourteen into twenty-one fathom water; when suddenly they fell into +twelve, ten, and eight fathom, in a few minutes. Every man was instantly +ordered to his station, and they were on the point of anchoring, when, +on a sudden, they had again deep water, so that they thought all danger +was at an end, concluding they had sailed over the tail of some shoals +which they had seen in the evening. They had twenty fathom and upwards +before ten o’clock, and this depth continuing some time, the gentlemen, +who had hitherto been upon deck, retired to rest; but in less than an +hour the water shallowed at once from twenty to seventeen fathom, and, +before soundings could be again taken, the ship struck against a rock, +and remained fixed, but from the motion given her by the beating of the +surge. Every one was instantly on deck, with countenances fully +expressive of the agitation of their minds. As they knew they were not +near the shore, they concluded they had struck against a rock of coral, +the points of which being sharp, and the surface so rough, as to grind +away whatever is rubbed against it, tho’ with a gentle motion; they had +reason to dread the horror of their situation! + +The sails being taken in, and boats hoisted out to examine the depth of +water, they found that the ship had been carried over a ledge of the +rock, and lay in a hollow within it. Finding that the water was deepest +eastern, they carried out the anchor from the starboard quarter, and +applied their whole force to the capstern, in hopes to get the vessel +off, but in vain. She now beat so violently against the rock, that the +crew could scarcely keep on their legs. The moon now shone bright, by +the light of which they could see the sheathing boards float from the +bottom of the vessel; till at length the false keel followed, so that +they expected instant destruction. Their best chance of escaping seemed +now to be by lightening her; but as they had struck at high water, they +would have been but in their present situation, after the vessel should +draw as much less water as the water had sunk: but their anxiety abated +a little, on finding that the ship settled to the rocks as the tide +ebbed. They, however, flattered themselves, that if the ship should keep +together till next tide, they might have some chance of floating her. +They therefore instantly started the water in the hold, and pumped it +up. The decayed stores, oil jars, casks, ballast, six of their guns, and +other things, were thrown overboard, in order to get at the heavier +articles; and in this business they were employed till daybreak, during +all which time it was observed, that not an oath was sworn; so much were +the minds of the sailors impressed with a sense of their danger. + +At day-light they saw land at eight leagues distance; but not a single +island between them and the main, on which part of the crew might have +been landed, while the boat went on shore with the rest; so that the +destruction of the greater part of them would have been inevitable, had +the ship gone to pieces. It happened, however, that the wind died away +to a dead calm before noon. As they expected high water at eleven +o’clock, every thing was prepared to make another effort to free the +ship; but the tide fell so much short of that in the night, that she did +not float by eighteen inches, though they had thrown over-board near +fifty tons weight: they now, therefore, renewed their toil, and threw +over-board every thing that could be possibly spared. As the tide fell, +the water poured in so rapidly, that they could scarcely keep her free +by the constant working of two pumps. Their only hope now depended on +the midnight tide, and preparations were accordingly made for another +effort to get the ship off. The tide began to rise at five o’clock, when +the leak likewise encreased to such a degree, that two more pumps were +manned; but only one of them would work: three, therefore, were kept +going till nine o’clock, at which time the ship righted; but so much +water had been admitted by the leak, that they expected she would sink +as soon as the water should bear her off the rock. Their situation was +now deplorable beyond description; and the imagination must paint what +would baffle the powers of language to describe. They knew that when the +fatal moment should arrive, all authority would be at an end. The boats +were incapable of conveying them all on shore; and they dreaded a +contest for the preference, as more shocking than the shipwreck itself: +yet it was considered, that those who might be left on board, would +eventually meet with a milder fate than those who, by gaining the shore, +would have no chance but to linger the remains of life among the rudest +savages in the universe, and in a country, where fire-arms would barely +enable them to support a wretched existence. + +At twenty minutes after ten the ship floated, and was heaved into deep +water; when they were happy to find that she did not admit more water +than she had done before; yet as the leak had for a considerable time +gained on the pumps, there was now three feet nine inches water in the +hold. By this time the men were so worn by fatigue of mind and body, +that none of them could pump more than five or six minutes at a time, +and then threw themselves, quite spent, on the deck, amidst a stream of +water which came from the pumps. The succeeding man being fatigued in +his turn, threw himself down in the same manner, while the former jumped +up and renewed his labour; thus mutually struggling for life, till the +following accident had like to have given them up a prey to absolute +despair. + +Between the inside lining of the ship’s bottom, which is called the +ceiling, and the outside planking, there is a space of about seventeen +or eighteen inches. The man who had hitherto taken the depth of water at +the well, had taken it no farther than the ceiling; but being now +relieved by another person, who took the depth to the outside planking, +it appeared by this mistake, that the leak had suddenly gained upon the +pumps, the whole difference between the two plankings.--This +circumstance deprived them of all hopes, and scarce any one thought it +worth while to labour, for the longer preservation of a life which must +so soon have a period: but the mistake was soon discovered; and the joy +arising from such unexpected good news inspired the men with so much +vigour, that before eight o’clock in the morning they had pumped out +considerably more water than they had shipped. They now talked +confidently of getting the ship into some harbour; and set heartily to +work to get in their anchors; one of which, and the cable of another, +they lost: but these were now considered as trifles. Having a good +breeze from the sea, they got under sail at eleven o’clock, and stood +for the land. + +As they could not discover the exact situation of the leak, they had no +prospect of stopping it within side of the vessel; but the following +expedient, which one of the Midshipmen had formerly seen tried with +success, was adopted. They took an old studding sail, and having mixed a +large quantity of oakham and wool, chopped small, it was stitched down +in handfuls on the sail, as lightly as possible; the dung of their sheep +and other filth being spread over it. Thus prepared, the sail was hauled +under the ship by ropes, which kept it extended till it came under the +leak, when the suction carried in the oakham and wool from the surface +of the sail. This experiment succeeded so well, that, instead of three +pumps, the water was easily kept under with one. + +They had hitherto had no further view than to run the ship into an +harbour, and build a vessel from her materials, in which they might +reach the East Indies; but they now began to think of finding a proper +place to repair her damage, and then to pursue their voyage on its +original plan. At six in the evening they anchored seven leagues from +the shore; and found that the ship made fifteen inches water an hour +during the night; but as the pumps could clear this quantity, they were +not uneasy. At nine in the morning they passed two islands, which were +called HOPE ISLANDS, because the reaching of them had been the object of +their wishes at the time of the shipwreck. In the afternoon the Master +was sent out with two boats to sound, and search for a harbour where the +ship might be repaired. They anchored at sun-set, in four fathom, two +miles from the shore. One of the Mates being out in the pinnace, +returned at nine o’clock, reporting, that he had found just such a +harbour as was wanted, at the distance of two leagues. + +At six o’clock the next morning they sailed, having previously sent two +boats a-head, to lie on the shoals that they saw in their way. They soon +anchored about a mile from the shore, when the Captain went out, and +found the channel very narrow, but the harbour was better adapted to +their present purpose, than any place they had seen in the whole course +of their voyage. As it blew very fresh this day and the following night, +they could not venture to run into the harbour, but remained at anchor +during the two succeeding days, in the course of which they observed +four Indians on the hills, who stopped and made two fires. + +The men by this time began to be afflicted with the scurvy, and their +Indian friend, Tupia, was so bad with it, that he had livid spots on +both his legs. Mr. Green, the astronomer, was likewise ill of the same +disorder; so that their being detained from landing was every way +disagreeable. The wind continued fresh till Sunday the 17th, but they +then resolved to push in for the harbour, and twice ran the ship +a-ground; the second time of which she stuck fast; on which they took +the booms, fore-yard, and fore-top-masts down, and made a raft on the +side of the ship; and, as the tide happened to be rising, she floated at +one o’clock. She was now soon got into the harbour, where she was moored +along the side of a beach, and the anchors, cables, &c. immediately +taken out of her. + +On Monday morning they erected a tent for the sick, several of whom were +brought on shore as soon as it was ready for their reception. They +likewise built a tent to hold the provisions and stores, which were +landed the same day. The boat was now dispatched in search of fish for +the refreshment of the sick, but she returned without getting any; but +Tupia employed himself in angling; and living entirely on the produce of +his industry, recovered his health very fast. Mr. Banks, in an excursion +up the country, saw the frames of several Indian houses, which appeared +to have been abandoned some time: while the Captain, having ascended one +of the highest hills, observed the high land to be stoney and barren, +and the low land near the river over-run with mangroves, among which the +salt-water flowed every tide. + +On Tuesday the Captain ordered the smith’s forge to be set up, and +directed the armourer to prepare the necessary iron work for the repair +of the vessel. He likewise ordered out the officers stores, water, &c. +in order to lighten the ship. This day Mr. Banks crossed the river to +view the country, which was little else than sand-hills. He saw vast +flocks of crows and pigeons, of the latter of which he shot several, +which were most beautiful birds. On the day following, as they were +removing the coals, the water rushed in, near the foremast, about three +feet from the keel; so that it was resolved to clear the hold entirely; +wherefore they took out all the coals, and the next day warped the ship +higher up the harbour, to a station proper for laying her a-shore, in +order to stop the leak. + +Early in the morning of the 22d the tide left the ship, and they +proceeded to examine the leak, when they found that the rocks had cut +through four planks into the timbers, and that three other planks were +damaged. In these breaches not a splinter was to be seen, the whole +being smooth, as if cut away by an instrument: but the preservation of +the vessel was owing to a very singular circumstance. One of the holes +was large enough to have sunk her, even with eight pumps constantly at +work; but this hole was in a great measure stopped up by the fragment of +the rock being left sticking in it. They likewise found some pieces of +the oakham, wool, &c. which had got between the timbers, and stopped +many parts of the leak which had been left open by the stone. Exclusive +of the leak, great damage was done to various parts of the ship’s +bottom. + +While the smiths were engaged in making nails and bolts, the carpenters +began to work on the vessel; and some of the crew were sent across the +river to shoot pigeons for the sick. These people found a stream of +fresh water, discovered many Indian houses, and had sight of a +mouse-coloured animal, extremely swift, and about the size of a +greyhound. On the 23d they saw plenty of fish, but catched only three. +This day many of the crew saw the animal above-mentioned; and one of the +seamen declared he had seen the Devil, which he described in the +following words, “He was as large, says he, as a one gallon keg, and +very like it; he had horns and wings, yet he crept so slowly through the +grass, that if I had not been _afeard_, I might have touched him.” It +appeared afterwards, that this poor fellow had seen a bat, which is +almost black, and as large as a partridge; and his own apprehensions had +furnished his Devil with horns. + +The repairs on the starboard side having been finished the preceding +day, the carpenters began to work under the larboard bow, on Sunday the +24th.--This day Mr. Gore and a party procured a bunch or two of wild +plantains, and a few palm cabbages, for the refreshment of the sick; and +the Captain and Mr. Banks saw the animal abovementioned, which had a +long tail, that it carried like a greyhound; it leapt like a deer, and +the point of its foot resembled that of a goat. + +The ship was now examined abaft, when it was discovered, that she had +received but little injury in that quarter. The carpenters continued to +work on her whenever the tide would permit. The vessel was now in a +position which threw all the water abaft; and Mr. Banks having removed +his whole collection of plants into the bread-room, they were this day +found under water, by which some of them were totally destroyed; but, by +great care, most of them were restored to a state of preservation. + +The ship being in part repaired, they twice attempted to float her, by +lashing a number of casks under her bottom; but their endeavours proving +fruitless, they were obliged to wait for the next spring tide. This day +a plant was found, the leaves of which were almost as good as spinnage. +They likewise found more cabbage trees, some wild plantain, and a fruit +of a deep purple colour, and the size of a golden pippin; which, after +being kept a few days, tasted like a damson. + +The carpenter was now engaged in caulking the ship, and the men employed +in filling water and other necessary business; while the Captain amused +himself in catching fish for the sick. On the 28th Mr. Banks took some +of the crew up the country, to shew them a plant which served them for +greens, and which the inhabitants of the West Indies call Indian kale. +Here they saw a tree notched for climbing, in the same way as those seen +in Botany bay. They also met with nests of white ants, from a few inches +to five feet in height. Mr. Gore was up the country, where he saw prints +of the feet of men, and the tracks of three or four kinds of animals. + +On the day following the boat took as many fish as allowed a pound and +an half to each man. A Midshipman saw a wolf, exactly resembling those +of America. On the 30th the Captain ascended a hill to take a view of +the sea, when, to his great concern, he observed innumerable sand-banks +and shoals, in every direction; but there was an appearance of a passage +to the northward, the only way he could think of getting clear, as the +wind constantly blows from the south-east. Mr. Gore this day saw two +straw-coloured animals, of the size of a hare, but shaped like a dog. So +much fish was taken, that each man had two pounds and a half; and plenty +of greens were gathered, which being boiled with the pease, their fare +was deemed excellent. + +On Sunday July the 1st, all the men had permission to go on shore, +except one from each mess, who went on the fishing party, and again met +with great success. A fire was this day observed about a mile up the +river. The master having been sent in the pinnace, in search of a +channel, returned on Tuesday, with an account that he had found a +passage out to sea, between the shoals, which consisted of coral rocks, +many of which were left dry at low water. He found some cockles so +large, that one of them was more than sufficient for two men; and +likewise plenty of other shell-fish, of which he brought a supply to the +ship, in his return to which he had landed in a bay where some Indians +were at supper; but they instantly fled, leaving some sea-eggs, and a +fire for the dressing them. This day they succeeded in an attempt to +float the ship; when they found that, by the position she had lain in, +she had sprung a plank, so that it was again necessary to lay her +ashore. An alligator swam by her several times this day. + +On the 4th she was laid ashore on a sand-bank, and the next day floated +at high water, and moored off the beach, in order to receive the stores +on board. This day Mr. Banks crossed the harbour, and found, on a sandy +beach, a great number of fruits, such as they had not seen before; among +which was a cocoa-nut, which Tupia said had been opened by a crab, and +which was judged to be what the Dutch call Beurs Krabbe. The vegetable +substances which Mr. Banks picked up were encrusted with marine +productions, which is said to be a proof of their having been brought +far by sea. + +Mr. Banks and a party having taken a boat up the river, on the 6th, with +a view to make an excursion in the country, returned on the 8th.--They +examined some parts of the country, which differing but little from what +they had already seen, they followed the course of the river, which they +at length found contracted into a narrow channel, bounded by steep +banks, which were adorned with trees of a most beautiful appearance, +among which was the bark-tree. The land was low and covered with grass, +and seemed capable of being cultivated to great advantage. They saw +several animals, one of which was judged to be a wolf. At night they +made a fire, and took up their quarters on the banks of the river; but +the night was rendered extremely disagreeable by the stings of the +musquitos, which pursued them into the smoke, and almost into the fire. +At break of day they sat out in search of game, and saw four animals, +two of which were chaced by Mr. Banks’s greyhound; but they greatly +outstripped him in speed, by leaping over the long thick grass, which +incommoded the dog in running. It was observed of this animal, that he +leaped or bounded forward on two legs, instead of running on four. +Having returned to the boat, they proceeded up the river, till it +contracted to a brook of fresh water, but in which the tide still rose +considerably. When they stopped for the night, they saw a smoke at a +small distance, on which three of them approached it, but the Indians +were gone. They saw the impression of feet on the sand, below high-water +mark, and found a fire still burning in the hollow of an old tree. At a +small distance they saw several huts, and observed ovens dug in the +ground; the remains of a recent meal were likewise apparent. They now +retired to their resting place, and slept on plantain-leaves, with +bunches of grass for their pillows, on the side of a sand-bank, under +the shelter of a bush. + +The tide favouring their return in the morning, they lost no time in +getting back to the ship. The master, who had been seven leagues at sea, +returned soon after Mr. Banks, bringing with him three turtle, which he +took with a boat hook, and which together weighed near eight hundred +pounds. He was sent out next morning, and Mr. Banks accompanied him with +proper instruments for catching turtle; but, not being successful, he +would not go back that night; so that Mr. Banks, after collecting some +shells and marine productions, returned in his own small boat. + +In the morning the second Lieutenant was sent to bring the Master back, +soon after which four Indians, in a small canoe, were within sight. The +Captain now determined to take no notice of these people, as the most +likely way to be noticed by them. This project answered: two of them +came within musket-shot of the vessel, where they conversed very loud: +in return the people on board shouted, and made signs of invitation. The +Indians gradually approached, with their lances held up, not in a +menacing manner, but as if they meant to intimate they were capable of +defending themselves. They came almost along-side, when the Captain +threw them cloth, nails, paper, &c. which did not seem to attract their +notice. At length one of the sailors threw them a small fish, which so +pleased them, that they hinted their design of bringing their +companions, and immediately rowed for the shore. In the interim, Tupia +and some of the crew landed on the opposite shore. The four Indians now +came quite along-side the ship; and having received farther presents, +landed where Tupia and the sailors had gone. They had each two lances, +and a stick with which they throw them. Advancing towards the English, +Tupia persuaded them to lay down their arms, and sit by him, which they +readily did. Others of the crew now going a-shore, the Indians seemed +jealous, least they should get between them and their arms; but care was +taken to convince them that no such thing was intended, and more trifles +were presented to them. The crew staid with them till dinner-time, and +then made signs of invitation for them to go to the ship and eat; but +this they declined, and retired in their canoe. + +These men were of the common stature, with very small limbs; their +complexion a deep chocolate; their hair black, either lank or curled, +but not of the wool kind; the breast and upper lip of one of them were +painted with streaks of white, which he called _Carbanda_, and some +parts of their bodies had been painted red. Their teeth were white and +even, their eyes bright, and their features rather pleasing: their +voices were musical, and they repeated several English words with great +readiness. + +The visit of three of these Indians was renewed the next morning, and +they brought with them a fourth, whom they called YAPA-RICO; who +appeared to be a person of some consequence. The bone of a bird, about +six inches long, was thrust through the gristle of his nose: and indeed +all the inhabitants of this place had their noses bored, for the +reception of such an ornament. These people being all naked, the Captain +gave one of them an old shirt, which he bound round his head like a +turban, instead of using it to cover any part of his body. They brought +a fish to the ship, which was supposed to be in payment for that given +them the preceding day: after staying some time, with apparent +satisfaction, they suddenly leaped into their canoe, and rowed off, from +a jealousy of some of the gentlemen who were examining it. + +Three Indians visited Tupia’s tent on the 12th of July, and after +remaining some time, one of them went for two others, whom he introduced +by name. Some fish was offered them, but they seemed not much to regard +it, and, after eating a little, gave the remainder to Mr. Banks’s dog. +Some ribbands which had been given them, to which medals were suspended +round their necks, were so changed by smoke, that it was difficult to +judge what colour they had been; and the smoke had made their skins look +darker than their natural colour; from whence it was thought that they +slept close to their fires, as a preventative against the sting of the +musquitos. Both the strangers had bones through their noses, and a piece +of bark tied over the forehead; and one of them had an ornament of +strings round his arm, and an elegant necklace made of shells. Their +canoe was about ten feet long, and calculated to hold four persons; and +when it was in shallow water they moved it by means of poles. Their +lances had only a single point, and some of them were barbed with +fish-bones. On the 14th Mr. Gore shot one of the mouse-coloured animals +abovementioned. It chanced to be a young one, weighing no more than +thirty-eight pounds; but when full grown they are as large as a sheep. +The skin of this beast, which is called _Kanguroo_, is covered with +short fur, and is of a dark mouse-colour: the head and ears are somewhat +like those of a hare: this animal was dressed for dinner, and proved +fine eating. The ship’s crew fed on turtle almost every day, which were +finer than those eaten in England, owing to their being killed before +their natural fat was wasted, and their juices changed. + +On the 17th Messrs. Banks and Solander went with the Captain into the +woods, and saw four Indians in a canoe, who went on shore, and walked up +without sign of fear. They accepted some beads, and departed, +intimating, that they did not chuse to be followed. The natives being +now become familiar with the ship’s crew, one of them was desired to +throw his lance, which he did with such dexterity and force, that though +it was not above four feet from the ground at the highest, it penetrated +deeply into a tree at the distance of fifty yards. The natives now went +on board the ship, and were well pleased with their entertainment. On +the 19th they saw several of the women, who, as well as the men, were +quite naked. They were this day visited by ten of the natives, who +seemed resolved to have one of the turtle that was on board, which they +repeatedly made signs for, and being as repeatedly refused, they +expressed the utmost rage and resentment; and one of them, in +particular, having received a denial from Mr. Banks, he stamped, and +pushed him away in the most violent manner. At length they laid hands on +two of the turtles, and drew them to the side of the ship where their +canoe lay; but the sailors took them away. They made several similar +attempts, but being equally unsuccessful, they leaped suddenly into +their canoe, and rowed off. At this instant the Captain, with Mr. Banks, +and five or fix seamen, went ashore, where they arrived before the +Indians, and where many of the crew were already employed. As soon as +the Indians landed, one of them snatched a fire-brand from under a pitch +kettle, and running to the windward of what effects were on shore, set +fire to the dry grass, which burnt rapidly, scorched a pig to death, +burnt part of the smith’s forge, and would have destroyed a tent of Mr. +Banks’s, but that some people came from the ship just in time to get it +out of the way of the flames. In the interim the Indians went to a place +where the fishing nets lay, and a quantity of linen was laid out to dry, +and there again set fire to the grass, in spite of all persuasion, and +even of threats. A musket loaded with small shot was now fired, and one +of them being wounded, they ran away, and this second fire was easily +extinguished; but the other burnt far into the woods. + +The natives continuing still in sight, a musquet charged with ball was +fired near them; upon hearing which they soon got out of sight: but +their voices being soon heard in the woods, and seeming to come nearer, +the Captain, with a few people, went to meet them. When they were in +sight of each other, both parties stopped, except an old Indian, who +advanced before the rest a little way, but soon halted, and speaking a +few words, retreated to his brethren, and they all retired slowly +together. The English having seized some of their darts, followed them +about a mile, and then sat down, the Indians sitting about an hundred +yards from them. The old man again came forward, having in his hand a +lance with a point. He stopped and spoke several times, on which the +Captain made signs of friendship. The old Indian now turned to his +companions, and having spoken to them, they placed their lances against +a tree, and came forward as in friendship; whereupon their darts which +had been taken were returned, and the whole quarrel seemed to be at an +end. The Indians having accepted some trinkets, walked amicably toward +the coast, intimating, by signs, that they would not fire the grass +again. They sat down opposite the ship, but would not go on board; and +they accepted a few musquet-balls, the use and effect of which the +Captain endeavoured to explain to them. When Captain Cook got on board +he saw the woods burning at the distance of two miles. + +The master having been sent to search for a passage to the northward, +returned with an account that he could not find any. By the night of the +20th the fire had extended many miles round them on the hills, which at +night formed an appearance that was very striking. On the 22d they +killed a turtle, through both shoulders of which stuck a wooden harpoon, +which the Indians had striken it with, and the wound was quite healed. +The next day one of the seamen, who had strayed from his company, met +with four Indians at dinner: he was alarmed at this unexpected meeting, +but had prudence enough to conceal his apprehensions, and sitting down +by them, gave them his knife, which having all looked at, they returned: +he would then have left them; but they chose to detain him till, by +feeling his hands and face, they were convinced he was made of flesh and +blood like themselves: they then dismissed him, directing him the +nearest way to the ship. + +Mr. Banks having gone on shore in search of plants, found the cloth, +which had been distributed among the natives, lying in a heap, as a +commodity of no value. On the 24th, Messrs. Solander and Banks found +several marking nuts [the _Anacardium orientale_] on the ground; but +their search for the tree that bore them was fruitless. On the 26th Mr. +Banks catched a female animal, called the _Opossum_, with two young +ones. + +By the 29th the ship was ready for sea; but there was not water +sufficient for her to pass the bar. On the first of August they found +that their pumps were all rotten; but as the ship admitted only an inch +of water in an hour, they hoped she would be stout enough to bear the +voyage. On the 4th of this month they put to sea, the pinnace going +a-head to keep sounding, and at noon came to an anchor, when the Captain +gave the name of CAPE BEDFORD to the northermost point of land in sight, +and that of ENDEAVOUR RIVER to the harbour which they had quitted. + +The provisions they obtained while in this harbour, consisted of turtle, +which they went some miles to sea to catch; oysters of three different +sorts, large cavalhe or scomber, large mullets, some flat fish, a great +number of small scombri, and skate or ray fish; purslain, wild beans, +the tops of coccos, and cabbage palms. Of quadrupedes there are goats, +wolves, and pole-cats, and a spotted animal of the viverra kind; and +several kinds of serpents, only some of which are venomous. Dogs are the +only tame animals; the land-fowls are kites, crows, hawks, loriquets, +cockatoos, parrots, pigeons, and small birds of various kinds, the names +of which were not known: the water-fowls are wild geese, curlieus, hens, +whistling ducks, which perch on trees, and some few others. The soil +produces the gum tree, and various other kinds of wood, and coarse +grass: the whole of the country is well watered, and ant hills abound in +every part of it. + +On the 4th the Captain ascended to the masthead, to look at some shoals +which threatened great danger; and he saw several of them above the +water. This day such a quantity of fish was catched, as allowed a +dividend of two pounds to each man. During the six following days they +struggled incessantly to sail safely past the shoals and breakers, by +which they were every way surrounded; but, for the present, their +attempts were vain. On the 10th they were between a head-land, and three +islands, which had been discovered on the preceding day; and began to +conceive hopes that they were out of danger; but this not proving the +case, the head-land received the name of CAPE FLATTERY. Some land was +now seen from the mast-head, which was generally taken for the main; but +the Captain judged it to be a cluster of islands; and during this +diversity of opinion, the ship came to an anchor. The Captain now +landed, and ascending a high point, took a survey of the sea coast, by +which he was confirmed in his opinion, that what they had seen was not +any part of the main, but a number of islands. On the point where he +stood were seen the prints of human feet, in white sand of an exquisite +fineness, and the spot was denominated POINT LOOKOUT. + +Early on the 11th Mr. Banks and the Captain went to visit the largest of +three islands, which had been seen from the point the preceding day. +Having gained the summit of the highest hill, they beheld a reef of +rocks, on which the sea broke in a frightful manner; but the thickness +of the weather preventing a perfect view, they lodged under a bush +during the night, in the hope of having a better prospect in the +morning; but the weather then proved worse than it had been on the +preceding day; yet, as they saw what had the appearance of a channel +between the reefs, a person was sent to examine it, who found it very +narrow. They now set out to return to the ship, after giving the name of +LIZARD ISLAND to this place, from their having seen no animals but +lizards on it. + +On their return they landed on a low sandy island, which abounded in +birds of various kinds, among which were eagles, a nest of the young of +which they took, and called the place EAGLE ISLAND. On this spot they +saw the nest of some bird, which was built with sticks on the ground, it +was near three feet in height, and twenty-six round. + +During the interval of their absence from the ship, the master had +landed on several low islands, where he had seen great heaps of +turtle-shells, and found the fins of them which the Indians had left +hanging on the trees, so fresh, that they were dressed and eaten by the +boat’s crew. + +After a conversation held among the officers, it was their concurrent +opinion, that it would be best to leave the coast, and stand out to sea: +and in consequence of these sentiments they sailed on the 13th of +August, 1770, and got through one of the channels in the reef; happy to +be once more in an open sea, after having been surrounded by dreadful +shoals and rocks for near three months. They had now sailed above a +thousand miles, during all which run they had been obliged to keep +sounding, without the intermission of a single minute; a circumstance +which, it is supposed, never happened to any ship but the Endeavour. + +The islands from one of which the passage to the open sea had been +observed, were called the ISLANDS OF DIRECTION. They abound in turtle +and other fish, and on the beach were found bamboos, cocoa nuts, +pumice-stone, and the seeds of plants, which were supposed to be carried +thither by the trade winds, as the plants themselves do not grow in the +country. + +Having anchored on the 14th, they steered a westerly course on the +following day, to get sight of the land, that a passage between that +land and New Guinea might not be missed, if there was any such passage. +Early in the afternoon they had sight of land, which had the appearance +of hilly islands, but it was judged to be a part of the main; and they +saw breakers between the vessel and the land, in which was an opening, +to get clear of which they set all their sails, and stood to the +northward till midnight, and then went on a southward tack for about two +miles, when the breeze died away to a dead calm. When day-light came on +they saw a dreadful surf break at a vast height within a mile of the +ship, towards which the rolling waves carried her with great rapidity. +Thus distressed, the boats were sent a-head to tow, and the head of the +vessel was brought about, but not till she was within one hundred yards +of the rock, between which and her there was nothing left but the chasm, +made by the last wave which had washed her side, and which had risen and +broke to a wonderful height on the rock:--but, in the moment they +expected instant destruction, a breeze, hardly discernible, aided the +boats in getting the vessel in an oblique direction from the rock. The +hopes however, afforded by this providential circumference, were +destroyed by a perfect calm which succeeded in a few minutes; yet the +breeze once more returned, before they had lost the little ground which +had been gained. + +At this time a small opening was seen in the reef, and a young officer +being sent to examine it, found that its breadth did not much exceed the +length of the ship, but that there was smooth water on the other side of +the rocks. Animated by the hope of preserving life, they now attempted +to pass the opening; but this was impossible; for it having become high +water in the interim, the ebb tide rushed through it with amazing +impetuosity, carrying the ship about a quarter of a mile from the reef, +and she soon reached the distance of near two miles, by the help of the +boats. When the ebb tide was spent, the tide of flood again drove the +vessel very near the rocks, so that their prospect of destruction was +renewed, when they discovered another opening, and a light breeze +springing up, they entered it, and were driven through it with a +rapidity that prevented the ship from striking against either side of +the channel. The ship now came to an anchor, and her crew were grateful +for having regained a station, which they had been very lately most +anxious to quit. + +The name of PROVIDENTIAL CHANNEL was given to the opening through which +the ship had thus escaped the most imminent dangers. A high promontory +on the main land in sight, was denominated CAPE WEYMOUTH, and a bay near +it WEYMOUTH BAY. This day the boats went out to fish, and met with great +success, particularly in catching cockles, some of which were of such an +amazing size, as to require the strength of two men to move them. Mr. +Banks likewise succeeded in his search for rare shells, and different +kinds of coral. + +On the 18th they discovered several small islands, which were called +FORBES’S ISLANDS, and had sight of a high point of land on the main, +which was named the BOLT HEAD. On the 19th they discovered several other +small islands, the land of which was low, barren, and sandy. A point was +seen, and called CAPE GRENVILLE, and a bay which took the name of TEMPLE +BAY. In the afternoon many other islands were seen, which were +denominated BIRD ISLES, from their being frequented by numerous flocks +of birds. + +On the 20th many more small islands were seen, on one of which there +were a few trees, and many Indian huts, supposed to have been erected by +the natives of the main land, as temporary habitations during their +visits to these islands. On the 21st they sailed through a channel, in +which was a number of shoals; and gave the name of YORK CAPE to a point +of the main land which forms the side of the channel. A large bay is +formed to the south of the cape, which was called NEWCASTLE BAY, and in +which are several little islands. On the north side of the cape the land +is rather mountainous, but the low parts of the country abound with +trees. The islands discovered in the morning of this day, were called +YORK ISLES. In the afternoon they anchored between some islands, and +observed, that the channel now began to grow wider: they observed two +distant points, between which no land could be seen, so that the hope of +having at length explored a passage into the Indian sea began to animate +every breast: but, to bring the matter nearer to a certainty, the +Captain took a party, and being accompanied by Messrs. Solander and +Banks, they landed on an island, on which they had seen a number of +Indians, ten of whom were on a hill, one of them carrying a bow, and a +bundle of arrows, the rest armed with lances; and round the necks of two +of them hung strings of mother-of-pearl. Three of these Indians stood on +the shore, as if to oppose the landing of the boat; but they retired +before it reached the beach. + +The Captain and his company now ascended a hill, from whence they had a +view of near forty miles, in which space there was nothing that +threatened to oppose their passage; so that the certainty of a channel +seemed to be almost ascertained. Previous to their leaving the island, +Captain Cook displayed the English colours, and took possession of all +the eastern coast of the country, from the 38th degree of +south-latitude, to the present spot, by the name of NEW SOUTH WALES, for +his Sovereign the King of Great Britain; and three vollies of small arms +being fired, and answered by an equal number from the _Endeavour_, the +place received the name of POSSESSION ISLAND. + +The next morning they saw three naked women collecting shell-fish on the +beach; and weighing anchor, gave the name of CAPE CORNWALL to the +extreme point of the largest island on the north-west side of the +passage: some low islands near the middle of the channel receiving the +name of WALLIS’S ISLES; soon after which the ship came to an anchor, and +the long-boat was sent out to sound. + +Towards evening they sailed again, and the Captain landed with Mr. Banks +on a small island, which was frequented by immense numbers of birds, the +majority of which being boobies, the place received the name of BOOBY +ISLAND. They were now advanced to the northern extremity of New Holland, +and had the satisfaction of viewing the open sea to the westward. The +north-east entrance of the passage is formed by the main land of New +Holland, and by a number of islands which took the name of the PRINCE OF +WALES’S ISLANDS, and which Captain Cook imagines may reach to New +Guinea: these islands abound with trees and grass, and were known to be +inhabited, from the smoke that was seen ascending in many places. + +To the passage which they had sailed through, Captain Cook gave the name +of ENDEAVOUR STREIGHTS; we shall now proceed to a more accurate +description of the country they had discovered; with an account of its +productions, and of the manners and language of its inhabitants. + +New South Wales is a much larger country than any hitherto known, which +is not deemed a continent, being larger than all Europe; which is proved +by the Endeavour having coasted more than two thousand miles, even if +her tract was reduced to a strait line. Northward of the latitude of +thirty-three degrees, the country is hilly, but not mountainous; but to +the southward of that latitude, it is mostly low and even ground. The +hills in general are diversified by lawns and woods, and many of the +vallies abound with herbage; though, on the whole, it cannot be deemed a +fertile country. To the northward the grass is not so rich, nor the +trees so high as in the southern parts; and almost every where, even the +largest trees grow at a distance of not less than thirteen yards +asunder. In all those places where the land forms a bay, the shore is +covered with mangroves, which grow about a mile inland, in a stinking +ground, which the spring tides always overflow. In some parts there are +bogs, covered with thick grass, and there is plenty of underwood in the +vallies: the soil in general seems unfit for cultivation, though there +are many spots where the arts of tillage might be attended with success. + +Salt creeks run in many directions through the country, which likewise +abounds in springs and brooks of fresh water, but has no rivers of any +considerable size; yet it is supposed to be upon the whole well watered, +as the time when the ship was on the coast, was the driest season of the +year. All parts of the country produce the gum tree, which yields a +resin like the _sanguis draconis_. + +There are palm-trees of three kinds, two of which are found only in the +northern district. One of these produces nuts resembling chesnuts, the +hulls of which being found near where the natives had made fires, it was +supposed that they were eatable; but some of the seamen having eaten of +them, were taken very ill: upon which they were given to the hogs, but +two of these died in about a week, and it was a work of difficulty to +recover the rest. The second sort of palm is much like the true cabbage +tree of the West Indies, and yields a large cabbage of a tolerable +flavour. The third sort, which abounds in the southward parts, produces +a small cabbage of the most agreeable taste; and its nuts, which are +fine food for hogs, grow in the greatest abundance. This country also +produces a tree, on which grows a kind of purple apple, which tastes +like a damascen, after keeping it a few days:--a fig-tree, the fruit of +which tastes very indifferently:--and a tree, the fruit of which is flat +on the sides like a cheese, but its colour is that of a plumb. + +Among the plants there is one, the leaves of which are like those of the +bulrush, which yields a bright yellow resin, exactly like gambouge, but +it does not stain: this plant had a very agreeable smell, but it is not +known to what uses it might be applied. There are two kinds of yams, one +round, and covered with stringy fibres, and the other shaped like a +radish; but both of them are pleasant to the taste: besides these, the +country produces purslain, and a kind of wild parsley. A fruit of a bad +taste was found, which resembled a pine-apple, and another, the kernel +of which was soft, but it was otherwise like a cherry. + +Besides the quadrupedes already mentioned, there is one, the belly of +which is totally white, and the back brown, with white spots: it is much +like a polecat, and the Indians call it _Quoll_.--There are vast numbers +of beautiful pigeons, many of which were shot by the seamen; and the +other land-birds are eagles, hawks, cranes, herons, bustards, crows, +quails, doves, parrots, paroquets, cockatoos, and some other birds of +very elegant plumage. + +The insects are few in number, among which the musquito and the ant are +the chief. The ants are of four kinds. The first are perfectly green, +and live on trees, in which they build curious nests, by bending down +the leaves, and gluing them together with an animal juice: thousands of +them joined to keep the leaf in its proper position, while many others +were employed in the gluing them. Being disturbed in their work, the +leaves, which are four or five inches in breadth, flew back with a force +which was thought much superior to the united strength of these insects. +Those who disturbed them paid for their curiosity, by being stung in a +very severe manner. + +The second kind of ants are quite black, and live in the inside of the +branches of trees, after they have worked out the pith. Some of the +branches being gathered, millions of these animals issued from every +broken twig. + +The third sort took up their lodging in the root of a plant that twines +round the trunk of other trees. This root, which they hollowed for their +purpose, was cut into great numbers of passages which ran across each +other; yet the plant appeared not to have been injured. These were not +more than half the size of the red ant of this country, but, upon being +disturbed, they crawled over the body in thousands, and put their +disturbers to the pain arising from exquisite tickling. + +The fourth kind were like the white ants of the East Indies; and had one +sort of nests, as big as an half peck loaf, hanging from the boughs of +the trees, and composed of several minute parts of vegetables, stuck +together by a glutinous matter, supposed to have been supplied from +their own bodies. The cells had a communication with each other, and had +openings which led to other nests on the same tree: they had likewise a +hollow covered passage to another nest on the ground, at the root of a +different tree from that on which the former nest was suspended. The +ground nests are six feet in height, and almost as much in breadth; the +outside being plaistered with clay of near two inches in thickness: +these have a subterraneous passage to the roots of the trees near which +they stand; from whence the ants ascend, by covered ways, up the trunk +and branches. As these ground-built houses are proof against the +invasion of the rain, it is supposed that the ants retire to them during +the wet season. + +The seas in these parts produce variety and plenty of fish, among which +are mullets, sea-crayfish, and crabs. On the shoals are found the rock, +pearl, and other oysters; and the most delicate green turtle, besides +those enormous cockles which have been already mentioned. Alligators are +found in the rivers and salt creeks. + +This country does not appear to be inhabited by numbers any way +proportioned to its great extent: not above thirty being ever seen +together but once, which was when those of both sexes and all ages got +together on a rock off Botany-bay, to view the ship. None of their +villages consisted of more huts than would afford shelter for fourteen +or fifteen men; and these were the largest numbers that ever assembled +with a view to attack the English. No part of the country appeared to be +cultivated; whence there must necessarily be fewer inhabitants inland, +than on the sea coast. + +The men are well made, of the middle size, and active in a high degree; +but their voices are soft even to effeminacy. Their colour is the +chocolate; but they were so covered with dirt, as to look almost as +black as negroes. Their hair is naturally long and black, but they +commonly crop it short; in some few instances it is slightly curled, but +in common quite strait. It is always matted with dirt, yet wholly free +from lice: their beards are thick and bushy, but kept short by singing. +The women were seen only at a distance, as the men constantly left them +behind when they crossed the river. + +The chief ornament of these people is the bone that is thrust through +the nose, which the sailors whimsically termed their spritsail yard: but +besides this they wore necklaces formed of shells, a small cord tied +twice or thrice round the arm between the elbow and the shoulder, and a +string of plaited human hair round the waist. Some few of them had an +ornament of shells hanging across the breast. Besides these ornaments, +they painted their bodies and limbs white and red, in stripes of +different dimensions; and they had a circle of white round each eye, and +spots of it on the face. Their ears were bored, but they did not wear +ear-rings. + +These people accepted whatever was given them, but seemed to have no +idea of making an adequate return; and they would not part with their +ornaments for any thing that was offered in exchange. Their bodies were +marked with scars, which they signified were in remembrance of the +deceased. + +Their huts were built with small rods, the two ends of which were fixed +into the ground, so as to form the figure of an oven; they are covered +with pieces of bark and palm-leaves. The door of this building, which is +only high enough to sit upright in, is opposite to the fire-place; they +sleep with their heels turned up towards their heads, and even in this +posture the hut will not hold more than four people. In the northern +parts, where the weather was warmer, one side of the houses was left +open, and the other opposed to whatever wind might blow at the time: +these huts were only built for temporary use, and left behind when they +removed to other parts of the country; but if their stay was only for a +night or two, they had no other protection from the weather than what +the grass and bushes afforded. While the huts on the main land were +turned from the wind, those on the islands were turned towards it; a +kind of proof that they visit the islands in fine weather, and enjoy the +refreshing breeze while they sleep. + +These huts are furnished with a kind of bucket for fetching water, made +of an oblong piece of bark tied up at each end with the twig of a tree; +and this is the only furniture of the house. On their backs they have a +kind of bag, of the size and form of a cabbage-net, in which they carry +their fish-hooks and lines, the shells of which they make these hooks, +the ornaments which they wear, some points of darts, and two or three +bits of paint; and in this narrow compass lies all their riches. + +They feed on the kanguroo, and on several kinds of birds, when they can +catch them; they likewise eat yams, and various kinds of fruit; but the +principal article of their subsistence is fish. They were frequently +observed with the leaves of a tree in their mouths, but whether it had +the qualities either of tobacco or betle could not be known; but it was +observed not to discolour the teeth or lips. + +From the notches that were seen in great numbers of trees, for the +purpose of climbing them, it was imagined that their method of taking +the kanguroo, was by striking it with their lances as it passed under +the tree. In these trees, likewise, it is probable, that they took birds +while they were roosting, as they seemed too shy to be otherwise +catched. + +Their method of producing fire, and extending the flames of it is very +singular: having wrought one end of a stick into an obtuse point, they +place this point upon a piece of dry wood, and turning the upright stick +very fast backward and forward between their hands, the fire is soon +produced; nor is it encreased with less celerity:--one of the natives +was frequently observed to run along the sea coast, leaving fire in +various places. The method taken to do this was as follows--before he +set off, he wrapped up a little spark of fire in dry grass, and the +quickness of his motion soon fanning it into a flame, he then placed it +on the ground, and putting a spark of it in another bit of grass, ran on +again, and encreased the number of his fires at pleasure. These fires +were supposed to be intended for the taking of the kanguroo, as that +animal was so very shy of fire, that when forced by the dogs, it would +not cross places which had been newly burnt, even when the fire was +extinguished. + +The natives of New South Wales make use of spears or lances; but these +are very differently constructed: those that were seen in the southern +parts of the country had four prongs, pointed with bone, and barbed; and +the points were rubbed with a hard kind of wax, the smoothness of which +made an easier passage into what was struck by them. On the contrary, +the lances in the northern parts have only one point: the shafts of them +are of different lengths, from eight to fourteen feet, are made of the +stalk of a plant not unlike a bulrush, and consist of several joints let +into each other, and tied together. The points of these lances are +sometimes made of fish-bones, and sometimes of a hard heavy wood: they +are barbed with other pieces of wood or bone, so that when they have +entered any depth into the body, they cannot be drawn out without +tearing the flesh in a shocking manner, or leaving splinters behind +them. + +When the natives intend to wound at a considerable distance, they +discharge this instrument with a throwing-stick; but if the object be +near them, it is thrown from the hand only. The throwing-stick is a +piece of smooth, hard, red wood, half an inch thick, two inches broad, +and about three feet in length, having a cross piece near four inches +long at one end, and a small knob at the other. A small hollow is made +in the shaft of the lance, near the point, and in this hollow the knob +is received; but, on being forced forward, it will easily slip from it. +The lance being placed on this throwing-stick, the Indian holds it over +his shoulder, shakes it, and then throws both lance and stick with his +utmost power; but as the cross piece strikes the shoulder, the sudden +jerk stops the stick, while the lance is driven forward with amazing +rapidity, and is generally so well aimed, that a mark at the distance of +fifty yards is more certainly struck with it, than by a bullet from a +gun. + +These people make use of shields, made of the bark of trees, of about +eighteen inches broad, and three feet long. Many trees were seen from +whence the bark had been taken, and others on which the shields were cut +out, but not taken away. + +In the northern parts of this coast, the canoes are formed by hollowing +out the trunk of a tree; and it was conjectured, that this operation +must have been performed by fire, as the natives did not appear to have +any instrument proper for the purpose. The canoes are in length about +fourteen feet, and so narrow that they would be frequently overset, but +that they are provided with an outrigger. The natives row them with +paddles, using both hands in that employment. + +The canoes in the southern parts are formed only of a piece of bark four +yards long, fastened together at each end, and the middle kept open by +pieces of wood passing from side to side. In deep water these are rowed +by paddles, of about a foot and a half in length, the rower having one +in each hand; but in shallow water they are pushed forward by means of a +long stick. As these vessels are extremely light, and draw very little +water, the natives run them on the mud banks in search of shell-fish, +some of which, it is probable, they broil and eat as soon as they are +taken, as it was remarked, that in the center of these vessels there was +usually a fire burning on a quantity of sea-weed. + +The natives have no tools but a wooden mallet, a kind of wedge, and an +adze, made of stone, with some pieces of coral and shells, which may +possibly be applied to the purposes of cutting. They polish the points +of their lances, and their throwing-sticks, with the leaves of a tree +that appears to be the ficus riduola, or wild fig, which bites with a +sharpness, almost equal to that of a rasp. + +Four people is the greatest number that a canoe will contain; and when +more than this number were to pass a river, three were landed out of the +first freight, and one man went back for the rest. + +That the natives of this country sometimes wage war with each other is +evident, from their being possessed of shields and weapons; yet not a +single wound was seen on any of their bodies: and, if they are neither +destroyed in war, nor carried off by famine, it will be difficult to +form a judgment by what means the number of the inhabitants are so +reduced, as to subsist on the products of the country: after all, it +will, perhaps, be best to attribute this circumstance to the wisdom of +that Providence, which distributes all its blessings with the most +unbounded goodness, and the most consummate wisdom. + + + END OF THE THIRD VOLUME. + + + + + Transcriber’s notes + + +New original cover art included with this ebook is granted to the public +domain. + +The illustrations have been moved to appropriate paragraph breaks. + +The original text used the long s. This has been changed to the regular +s. + +Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. + +Archaic and inconsistent spelling and hyphenation have been retained. + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78019 *** diff --git a/78019-h/78019-h.htm b/78019-h/78019-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c5fbd9d --- /dev/null +++ b/78019-h/78019-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,16655 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html> +<html lang="en"> +<head> +<meta charset="UTF-8"> +<title>An historical account of all the voyages round the world, performed by English navigators. (Volume 3 of 4) | Project Gutenberg</title> +<link rel="icon" href="images/cover.jpg" type="image/x-cover"> +<style> +body { margin-left:10%; margin-right:10%; position: relative;} +figure {margin: 1ex auto;} +figcaption {text-align: center;} +h1 {page-break-before: always; font-weight: normal; font-size: 1em; margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 0} +p {text-align: justify; text-indent: 1.4em; margin-top: 0; margin-bottom: 0;} +table {border-spacing: 0} +th {font-weight: normal; padding: 0;} +td {padding: 0;} +h2 {text-align: center; font-weight: normal; font-size: 1em;} +p.drop-cap {text-indent: 0;} +p.drop-cap:first-letter {float: left; font-size: 300%; line-height:0.68em; margin: 0.12em 0.1em 0em 0em;} +.pagenum { position: absolute; right: -3.5em; font-size: small; text-indent: 0; text-align: right; border: 1px solid silver; margin-top: 0.3em; padding: 0 0.2em; color: silver;} +.v_align_b { vertical-align: bottom;} +.w100 {width: 100%;} +.small-caps { font-variant: small-caps;} +.max100 {max-width: 100%;} +.align_c { text-align: center; text-indent: 0;} +.mtop4 {margin-top: 4em;} +.lspp {letter-spacing: 0.2em; margin-right: -0.2em;} +.lspa { letter-spacing: 0.11em; margin-right: -0.11em;} +.l13 { font-size: 1.3em; } +.l15 {font-size: 1.5em;} +.l75 {font-size: 0.75em; } +.top_space { margin-top: 1em;} +.fontp9 { font-size: 0.9em;} +.center { margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;} +.lh1p1 {line-height: 1.1;} +.margetb {margin-top: 1ex; margin-bottom: 1ex;} +.lspz { letter-spacing: 0.05em; margin-right: -0.05em;} +.hang_indent {text-align: justify; padding-left: 1.2em; text-indent: -1.2em;} +.lined {border-top: 2px solid black; border-bottom: 9px double black; margin-top: .3em; margin-bottom: .3em; padding: .2em;} +.lspb { letter-spacing: 0.7em; margin-right: -0.7em;} +.one_space { margin-top: 1.3ex; margin-bottom: 1.3ex;} +.topline {border-top: 1px solid black;} +.chapter {padding-top: 4em; page-break-before: always;} +.nobreak {page-break-before: avoid;} +.lspc { letter-spacing: 0.4em; margin-right: -0.4em;} +.lspd { letter-spacing: 1em; margin-right: -1em;} +.l12 { font-size: 1.2em; } +.font2p { font-size: 2em; } +.two_space { margin-top: 1em;} +.toupper {text-transform: uppercase;} +.ip2 {margin-left: -0.2em;} +.x-ebookmaker p.drop-cap:first-letter {float: none; margin: 0; font-size: 100%;} +.fn_anchor {font-size: 0.8em; vertical-align: super;} +.footnote { font-size: small; margin: 2ex 0;} +.lspe { letter-spacing: 2em; margin-right: -2em;} +.noindent {text-indent: 0;} +.tnote {font-size: 0.9em; margin-top: 2em; padding: 0.5em;} +.space_after { margin-bottom: 1.3ex;} +.x-ebookmaker .lspa {letter-spacing: 0; margin-right: 0;} +.x-ebookmaker .lspb {letter-spacing: 0; margin-right: 0;} +.x-ebookmaker .lspc {letter-spacing: 0; margin-right: 0;} +.x-ebookmaker .lspd {letter-spacing: 0; margin-right: 0;} +.x-ebookmaker .lspe {letter-spacing: 0; margin-right: 0;} +.x-ebookmaker .lspp {letter-spacing: 0; margin-right: 0;} +.x-ebookmaker .lspz {letter-spacing: 0; margin-right: 0;} +.x-ebookmaker .toupper {text-transform: none;} +.x-ebookmaker .ip2 {margin-left: 0;} +.x-ebookmaker .chapter {padding-top: 0; page-break-before: always;} +td.al {text-align: left;} +td.ar {text-align: right;} +td.ph {padding-left: 1em; text-indent: -1em;} +td.ac {text-align: center;} +td.vt {vertical-align: top;} +td.vb {vertical-align: bottom;} +td.pl {padding-left: 0.5em;} +td.pi {padding-left: 1.5em; text-indent: -1em;} +th.ac {text-align: center;} +th.ph {padding-left: 1em; text-indent: -1em;} +th.pl {padding-left: 0.5em;} +th.al {text-align: left;} +th.pb {padding-bottom: 0.5ex;} +h2 {line-height: 2;} +</style> +</head> +<body> +<div style='text-align:center'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78019 ***</div> +<figure class='max100' style='width: 180em;'> +<img src="images/001.png" class="w100 v_align_b" alt=""> +<figcaption><i><span class="small-caps">Chart</span> of the Track of the</i> Dolphin, Tamar, Swallow & Endeavour, <i>through the</i> <span class="small-caps">South Seas</span>, <i>& of the Track of</i> M. Bougainville, round the <span class="small-caps">World</span>.</figcaption> +</figure> +<div class='section'> +<h1 class="align_c mtop4"> +<span class='lspp'>AN</span><br> +<span class='l13'><span class='lspa'>HISTORICAL ACCOUNT</span></span><br> +<span class='lspp'>OF ALL THE</span><br> +<span class='l15'><span class='lspa'>VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD</span>,</span><br> +<span class='lspp'>PERFORMED BY</span><br> +<span class='l13'><span class='lspp'>ENGLISH NAVIGATORS</span>;</span> +</h1> +<p class="align_c"> +<span class='l75'><span class='lspa'>INCLUDING THOSE LATELY UNDERTAKEN</span></span><br> +<span class='l13'>By <span class="small-caps"><span class='lspp'>Order</span></span> of his <span class="small-caps"><span class='lspp'>Present </span></span><span class='lspp'>MAJESTY</span>.</span> +</p> +<p class="align_c top_space"> +<span class='l75'><span class='lspp'>THE WHOLE</span></span><br> +Faithfully Extracted from the <span class="small-caps"><span class='lspa'>Journals</span></span> of the<br> +<span class='l13'><span class='lspp'>VOYAGERS</span>.</span> +</p> +<table class='fontp9 center lh1p1 margetb'> +<tr> +<td class="al ph"><span class="small-caps"><span class='lspz'>Drake</span></span>,</td> +<td class="ar">undertaken in 1577-80</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al ph"><span class="small-caps"><span class='lspz'>Cavendish</span></span>,</td> +<td class="ar">1586-88</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al ph"><span class="small-caps"><span class='lspz'>Cowley</span></span>,</td> +<td class="ar">1683-86</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al ph"><span class="small-caps"><span class='lspz'>Dampier</span></span>,</td> +<td class="ar">1689-96</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al ph"><span class="small-caps"><span class='lspz'>Cooke</span></span>,</td> +<td class="ar">1708-11</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al ph"><span class="small-caps"><span class='lspz'>Rogers</span></span>,</td> +<td class="ar">1708-11</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al ph"><span class="small-caps"><span class='lspz'>Clipperton</span></span> and <span class="small-caps"><span class='lspz'>Shelvocke</span></span>,</td> +<td class="ar">1719-22</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al ph"><span class="small-caps"><span class='lspz'>Anson</span></span>,</td> +<td class="ar">1740-44</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al ph"><span class="small-caps"><span class='lspz'>Byron</span></span>,</td> +<td class="ar">1764-66</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al ph"><span class="small-caps"><span class='lspz'>Wallis</span></span>,</td> +<td class="ar">1766-68</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al ph"><span class="small-caps"><span class='lspz'>Carteret</span></span>,</td> +<td class="ar">1766-69</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al ph"><span class="small-caps"><span class='lspz'>Cook</span></span>,</td> +<td class="ar">1768-71</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p class='align_c'> +<span class='l75'><span class='lspp'>TOGETHER WITH</span></span></p> +<p class='hang_indent'> +That of <span class="small-caps">Sydney Parkinson</span>, Draftsman to <span class="small-caps">Joseph Banks</span>, Esq; who circumnavigated the Globe with +Capt. <span class="small-caps">Cook</span>, in his Majesty’s Ship the <span class="small-caps">Endeavour</span>.</p> +<p class="align_c"> +<span class='l75'><span class='lspp'>AND</span></span> +</p> +<p class='align_c'> +The Voyage of Mons. <span class="small-caps">Bougainville</span> round the World, +Performed by Order of the French King.</p> +<p class="align_c top_space"> +Illustrated with Maps, Charts, and Historical Prints. +</p> +<p class="align_c top_space"> +<span class="small-caps"><span class='lspp'>In Four Volumes</span></span>. +</p> +<p class="l75 top_space align_c"> +To which is added, +</p> +<p class='hang_indent'> +An <span class='lspp'>APPENDIX</span>. Containing the <span class="small-caps">Journal</span> of +a <span class="small-caps">Voyage</span> to the <span class="small-caps">North Pole</span>, by the Hon. Commodore +PHIPPS, and Captain LUTWIDGE.</p> +<p class="align_c lined"> +<span class='lspb'>VOLUME THE THIRD</span>. +</p> +<p class="align_c"> +<span class='lspb'>LONDON</span>: +</p> +<p class="align_c fontp9"> +Printed for <span class="small-caps">F. <span class='lspp'>Newbery</span></span>, the Corner of St. Paul’s Church-Yard. +</p> +<p class='align_c one_space'> +<span class="topline">M DCC LXXIII.</span></p> +</div> +<div class="chapter"> +<h2 class='nobreak'> +<span class='l12'><span class="small-caps"><span class='lspc'>Commodore BYRON</span>’s</span></span><br> +<span class='font2p'><span class='lspd'>VOYAGE</span></span><br> +<span class='lspc'>ROUND THE WORLD</span>,<br> +In 1764, 1765, and 1766. +</h2></div> +<p class='two_space drop-cap'> +H<span class='toupper lspz ip2'>is</span> present Majesty having formed a +design of prosecuting the discovery +of countries in the South Seas, was +pleased, in the year 1764, to give orders for +the carrying this design into execution: in +consequence of which, the Dolphin ship of war +and the Tamar frigate were fitted, manned, +and victualled for this expedition. +</p> +<p> +Mr. Byron was commander in chief, and +Captain Mouat had the honour of commanding +the frigate under him. They sailed from +the Downs on the 21st of June, 1764, but the +Dolphin running a-ground, she was put into +Plymouth Dock and examined: she had however +sustained no injury, and on the 3d of July +the Commodore hoisted his broad pendant, and +sailed in prosecution of his voyage. On the +30th they anchored in the road of Fonchiale, +at the island of Madeira; the Governor of +which saluted the Captain with 11 guns, and +the compliment was returned. They sailed on +the 19th, and on the 21st were in sight of +Palma, one of the Canary Islands. Their water +having become foul and stinking, they purified +<span class='pagenum'>2</span>it, by forcing a stream of air through it, +by means of a kind of ventilator constructed +for that purpose. On the 27th and 28th they +saw the Canary Islands, and anchored in the +bay of Port Praya on the 30th.⁠—Having taken +in water, and purchased some fresh provisions, +they sailed with all possible expedition, for fear +of the tornadoes, which are very common on +this coast from August till November. +</p> +<p> +Most of the crew had purchased monkies, +lean goats, and fowls, in exchange for their +old jackets, shirts, &c. It had been remarked +before, and was now again observed, that no +fish would come near the ship, which was attributed +to her being sheathed with copper; +this was a mortifying circumstance, as there +were immense numbers of fish within sight. +</p> +<p> +On the 13th of September they came to an +anchor in the road of Rio de Janeiro, on the +coast of Brazil, when the Commodore paid a +visit to the Governor, who received him in +state, being attended by some persons of distinction, +and having many officers, and a Captain’s +guard under arms before the palace. +Fifteen guns were fired in honour of the English +flag; and the Governor afterwards returned +the Commodore’s visit on board the +Dolphin. Many of the people on board the +Tamar being sick, lodgings were provided for +them on shore, where they soon recovered; but +the crew of the Dolphin kept their health, +<span class='pagenum'>3</span>through the plentiful use of fresh meat and +greens. +</p> +<p> +While the ship lay in this harbour, the Portuguese +enticed away nine of the crew of the +Tamar, and five from the Dolphin. The former +were recovered, by a party sent after them +in the night; but the Commodore could never +learn where his men were secreted. This practice +of kidnapping the English tars is here carried +on with impunity; and when all other +methods fail, the poor fellows are generally +made drunk, and then sent up the country, till +the ship to which they belong is sailed. They +weighed anchor on the 16th of October, and +on the 22d the Commodore informed the crew +that they were not bound, as they thought, +directly to the East Indies, but on a voyage to +make discoveries; and that, on their behaving +well, the Lords of the Admiralty had ordered +them double pay, and other emoluments. They +were transported with this news, declared their +willingness to serve their country, and promised +obedience to the orders of the Commodore. +On the 29th they encountered so violent a +storm, that they were obliged to throw four +guns overboard: it continued very tempestuous +all night, but dying away in the morning, +they made sail, and, in 35 degrees 50 minutes +south latitude, found the weather most intolerably +cold, though it was now the latter end +of October, and November in that climate answers +<span class='pagenum'>4</span>to May in England. The sailors now +repented the having bartered their old cloaths +for eatables; but they were soon re-furnished +with the slops that were on board. +</p> +<p> +The Commodore, on the 2d of November, +delivered their commissions to his officers, after +they had taken the customary oath. They now +beheld vast numbers of pintadoes, and other +birds, in flocks about the ship. Observing the +colour of the water to be changed, they stood +in for land on the 11th of this month, and +found ground at the depth of 45 fathom. The +next day the men on the forecastle called out, +at the same instant, “Land right a-head.” +The Commodore looked forward, and saw +what he thought an island, composed of two +hills, and land joining to it, which ran far to +the south-east; but in the end this proved to +be only a fog-bank, which vanished on a sudden. +These deceptions are not unfrequent: +not long since the master of a vessel made oath, +that he had seen an island, and trees growing +on it, between Newfoundland and the west +coast of Ireland; in consequence of which some +ships were sent in search of it, but it could never +be found. +</p> +<p> +In the afternoon of the 13th the wind shifted, +the sky grew black to windward, and a +strange noise was heard, resembling the roaring +of the sea on a shallow coast. Hundreds +of birds were observed flying from the storm, +<span class='pagenum'>5</span>and shrieking through dreadful apprehension. +At length it reached the ship before she was +prepared for it, and laid her on her side. The +first Lieutenant was beat down by the main +sheet, by which some of his teeth were knocked +out, and he was otherwise terribly bruised. +The main-sail of the Tamar was split; but as she +was to leeward of the Dolphin, she had more +time to prepare for the threatened storm. The +wind continued violent all night, but abated in +the morning, when the sea was observed to be covered +with a small red fish, like cray-fish, great +numbers of which were catched by the ship’s +crew. +</p> +<p> +On the 16th they steered for Cape Blanco, +shaping their course agreeable to the chart of it +laid down in Anson’s Voyage. On the 17th +they saw the Cape, and for two days struggled +hard to reach Port Desire; but the description +given of it in Narborough’s Voyage is so perplexed, +that they were much at a loss. They stood +into a bay south of the Cape, but could find no +port. On the 20th they saw Penguin Island, +and as Port Desire was said to be a few leagues +north-west of it, a boat was sent out, which +found it. In these seas there were thousands of +seals and penguins near the ship. On the 21st +they entered the harbour of Port Desire, and +the Commodore in his boat, attended by two +other boats, went to sound it. Mr. Byron landed, +and found the country all one continued +<span class='pagenum'>6</span>down, having neither shrubs or trees. They +had a sight of four beasts, near 13 hands high, +and in shape like a deer, which they took to be +guanicoes. The Commodore having returned +to his boat, went higher up the harbour, to +an island abounding with seals, more than 50 +of which they killed, some of them exceeding +the size of an ordinary bullock. They likewise +killed a variety of birds, one with a head +like an eagle, with a large comb on it, and a +white ruff, like a lady’s tippet, round the +neck; the feathers on the back were black, +and of a most exquisite polish; the legs were +large and strong, with talons somewhat like the +eagle; the wings being extended, measured no +less than 12 feet from their extremities. +</p> +<p> +On the 21st the Tamar sailed into the harbour +with the rising of the tide; but the Dolphin +waiting for a wind, ran on shore, where +she remained all night, and the next day, in +very tempestuous weather. On the 23d they +saw the track of a tyger, and several other +beasts, and found a nest of ostriches eggs, +which proved to be good eating. On the 24th +the ships were both properly moored in the +harbour, where the water rises no less than 27 +feet at spring tides. +</p> +<p> +The Commodore went on shore this day, and +shot a hare weighing 26 pounds, and saw several +others as large as fawns. On the 25th he +landed again, and found the barrel of an old +<span class='pagenum'>7</span>musquet, with the King’s broad arrow on it, +and an old oar of a singular form. The musquet-barrel +was so decayed, that it would crumble +to dust with the touch. These things, it is +probable, were left by the crew of the Wager, +or, possibly, by Sir John Narborough. +</p> +<p> +They here saw the remains of fires, but met +with no inhabitants. The only vegetable they +found was wild peas. They killed several +wild ducks, and shot a ball through the body +of a hare, which ran two miles before he dropped: +the flesh of this animal is delicious, and +as white as snow. Two old guanicoes and a +fawn were killed by another party; and some +of the former were seen of 300 weight. +</p> +<p> +The skull and bones of a man having been +found, were brought on board; as was likewise +a young guanicoe, which was very beautiful, +and grew quite tame; but died in a short +time. Happily, on the 27th, two springs of +tolerable water were found; and on the next +day a tun of it was brought on board. The +Commodore went again on shore, where such +an immense number of birds took flight, as actually +darkened the sky, and it was impossible +to walk without treading on their eggs. These +eggs the men ate, though there were young +birds in the greater part of them. +</p> +<p> +On the 30th some men being sent on shore for +water, two of them, who first came to it, saw +<span class='pagenum'>8</span>a tyger lying on the ground, who taking no +kind of notice of them, they threw stones at +him: still, however, they could not provoke +his rage; he waited till the rest came up, and +then walked leisurely off. The country near +this bay abounds with geese, ducks, widgeon, +and sea-pies, besides several birds, the names +of which are unknown. +</p> +<p> +On the 5th of December the ships got under +sail, and, during that and the following day, +had pleasant weather and a fine gale. They +now steered for Pepys’ Isle, which is described +as lying in 47 degrees south latitude. The +weather was now very clear, and the ships, by +spreading from each other, could, between +them, command a prospect of 20 leagues. They +thus continued their search for this supposed +island till the 11th of the month, when the +Commodore, convinced that there was no such +place, resolved to stand in for the main, to take +in wood and water, which began to be much +wanted. +</p> +<p> +Large whales now swam frequently about the +ship, and birds flew round them in great numbers. +On the 15th the wind blew a perfect +hurricane, before which it would have been +safest to have ran; but the fear of being driven +too far from land, while they were in want of +water, determined them to endeavour to weather +it, which they did till it abated, which +was at eight o’clock the next morning. On +<span class='pagenum'>9</span>the 18th they saw land, which, like that near +Port Desire, was of the downy kind without +trees. They now observed porpoises, which were +milk white, with black spots, pursuing the fish +in the sea, of which there were great numbers. +</p> +<p> +On the 20th they ran close in shore to Cape +Virgin Mary; and having observed a smoke on +shore, and a number of guanicoes feeding in +the vallies, they came to an anchor. The next +day they again sailed, and at length anchored +about two miles from the shore, near the place +where they had seen smoke the preceding day. +The Commodore observed a number of men +on horse-back, riding to and fro, opposite the +ship, and waving something white, which he +took to be an invitation to land; and as he was +anxious to know what people these were, he +went in one boat with a party of men well armed; +the first Lieutenant with a separate party +following in another. When they came near +the shore, they saw a great number of people +on horseback, and some on foot, the whole +amounting, as they judged, to five hundred; +who were drawn up on a stony point of land +that ran far into the sea. Though the Commodore +did not observe that they had any weapons, +he made signs for them to retreat a little, +which they readily did, and kept shouting very +loud while the crew were landing; which was +no sooner done, than they were mustered on the +beach, with their officers at their head. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>10</span>Mr. Byron now advanced alone, but as he +approached, the Indians retreated; he therefore +made signs, that one of them should come +forward, which was complied with. The person +who advanced appeared to be a chief, and +was very near seven feet in heighth: round one +of his eyes was a circle of black paint, and a +white circle round the other; the rest of his +face was painted in streaks of various colours. +He had the skin of a beast, with the hair inwards, +thrown over his shoulders. The Commodore +and the Indian having complimented +each other, in language equally unintelligible +to either, they walked together towards the +main body of the Indians, few of whom were +shorter than the height abovementioned, and +the women were large in proportion. Mr. Byron +made signs for them to sit on the ground, +which they did, chanting in a most serious and +melancholy tone. The eyes of any one face +were never painted with the same colours; some +being white and red, some black and red, and +some black and white: their teeth were white +and even; they were all dressed much alike; +but that some of them wore a sort of boots, +having a spur of peaked wood fastened to each +heel. +</p> +<p> +The Commodore having prevailed on some, +who were still galloping about, to alight and sit +down with the rest, he distributed some white +and yellow beads among them, which they very +<span class='pagenum'>11</span>gladly accepted. He then took a piece of +ribband, and giving the end of it into the hands +of the first Indian, he continued it to the next, +and so on as they sat, to the end of the ribband. +He then cut it with a pair of scissars between +every two of them; and tied each man’s share +round his head, which they did not attempt to +remove. It was remarked, that though the +presents were insufficient to supply them all, no +one pressed forward from the station assigned +him, nor seemed to envy the superior good fortune +of his neighbour. +</p> +<figure class='max100' style='width: 30em;'> +<img src="images/015.jpg" class="w100 v_align_b" alt=""> +<figcaption><i>Commodore Byron Conversing with a Patagonian Woman.</i></figcaption> +</figure> +<p> +Among these gigantic people, one woman, +who was of the largest size, and most disagreebly +painted, had her hair adorned with beads +of blue grass, hanging, in two divisions, down +before her shoulders; and she had bracelets of +pale gold or brass, on her arms; but there was +no learning how she obtained this finery. One +of the men shewed Mr. Byron the bowl of a +tobacco pipe, made of red earth, and made +signs that he wanted some tobacco, none of +which they had among them. On this the +Commodore beckoned to the seamen, who still +remained drawn up on the beach, three or four +of whom instantly running forward, the Indians +were alarmed, and jumping up in an instant, +were preparing to retire, as it was supposed, to +fetch their arms. Mr. Byron therefore ran and +stopped the sailors, directing one of them only +to come forward, when he had got all the tobacco +<span class='pagenum'>12</span>they could muster among them. This +restored peace, and all the Indians resumed their +places, except an old man, who sung a long +song to Mr. Byron; at nearly the conclusion of +which Mr. Cumming, the first Lieutenant, +brought the tobacco. This gentleman, tho’ +six feet two inches high, was himself astonished +at the diminutive figure he cut among the +strangers, who were broad and muscular in proportion +to their height. The Commodore having +distributed the tobacco, they made signs +for him to ride to their huts; but he intimated, +that he must return to the ship; on which they +sat down again, apparently much concerned. +Their horses, though not large, were active, +and much under command: their saddles were +like an English pad, and the bridle was formed +of a thong of leather, with the bit made of +wood; they had no stirrups, and both men and +women rode astride. When the Commodore +left them they kept their seats, not once offering +to follow him. +</p> +<p> +On the 21st of December they began sailing +up the Streight of Magellan, with a view to +take in a proper stock of wood and water, as +the finding Falkland’s Islands was yet a matter +of uncertainty. They remarked a single Indian +on this shore, who waved his hand to them +till he lost sight of the ship; they likewise saw +several guanicoes on the hills. On the evening +of the 22d six Indians came on the beach, hallooing, +<span class='pagenum'>13</span>and making signs that they wished an +acquaintance with the crew; but, as the seamen +were fatigued, the Commodore would not send +off a boat to them. On the 25th they saw a +point of land near St. George’s Island, to which +Mr. Byron gave the name of <span class="small-caps">Porpois Point</span>. +</p> +<p> +Having anchored at ten at night, the Commodore +went the next morning in quest of +wood and water, plenty of which they found +on the point abovementioned. A fine level +country lies over the point, the soil of which +appeared to be very luxuriant, producing innumerable +flowers of several kinds, the smell +of which was extremely fragrant; there was +also a plenty of good grass, among which grew +peas that were then in blossom. They saw hundreds +of painted geese, (so called from their +beauty) which were feeding among this variety +of sweets: they likewise found an abundance +of plants, and wild celery in great quantities. +Many Indian wigwams were seen, situated in +the woods, near streams of water; these had +been lately occupied, as the fires appeared but +just burnt out. In a walk of twelve miles they +saw no place proper for a boat to land, the sea +breaking high on the shore. Mr. Byron returned +in the evening, and found that some of +the men had been shooting geese, teal, and +snipes, while others had employed themselves, +with equal success, in fishing: these employments +indeed became necessary, as the men +<span class='pagenum'>14</span>could have eaten thrice their allowance, owing +to the keen air of the country. +</p> +<p> +On the 26th they steered for Port Famine, +and came to an anchor, close to the shore, the +next day at noon. In this place they found +drift-wood enough to have supplied a thousand +vessels. The Commodore went four miles up +Sedger river, but could proceed no farther, the +trees which had fallen across the stream impeding +the boat’s way; one of the stumps of +them having made a hole in her bottom, she +was immediately filled with water: but they +made shift to get her on shore, and stopped the +leak, so as to return in her to the mouth of the +river. The banks of this stream are furnished +with the noblest trees, sufficient in number to +supply masts for the whole navy of Great Britain. +Some of these were so large, that four +men joined hand in hand could not enclose +them; and, among the rest, the pepper tree +was found. These woods abound in parrots, +and other beautiful birds. The quantity of +fish that was daily taken was equal to the supply +of both the crews; and the Commodore +shot as many geese and ducks as furnished several +tables besides his own. +</p> +<p> +While the ships lay at anchor here, Mr. +Byron and a party went on shore; but being +catched in a violent rain, they stopped where +some Indians had left a fire, the wood of which +was yet warm; and kindling a fire to dry their +<span class='pagenum'>15</span>cloaths, another fire was instantly made on +Terra del Fuego, the opposite shore, which +they imagined to be a signal, on a supposition +they were Indians. The hills were craggy, of +an amazing height, and wholly covered with +snow; but the plains were adorned with flowers, +equal in fragrance and beauty to those in +the gardens of England. +</p> +<p> +The Commodore having ordered a tent to be +erected on the borders of a wood, and adjoining +to a rivulet, three of the sailors were there +stationed to wash linen, and they laid in the +tent. One evening, soon after they had retired +to rest, they were awakened by the deep and +hollow roarings of some wild beasts, which +came nearer them every moment. Terrified +with apprehension, they made and kept up a +blazing fire, round which the beasts walked at +a small distance till the dawn of the morning, +when they retired. +</p> +<p> +Near where the ships rode at anchor was a +hill cleared of wood, which they imagined to +have been a Spanish settlement, mention of +which is made in Captain Wallis’s Voyage, as +will be seen in the course of this work. Both +ships having taken in sufficient wood and water +by the 4th of January, 1765, they sailed at +four o’clock in the morning, in quest of Falkland’s +Islands; but the wind dying away, they +were obliged to come to an anchor the day following. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>16</span>On Sunday the 6th they again made sail, and +the Commodore, who had been twenty-four +hours on deck, retired to sleep; but he was +soon awakened by the vessel beating on a bank. +Happily, at this instant, it was a perfect calm, +so that the rising of the tide soon carried the +ship safe off again. On the 8th the officer of +the watch discovered that the head of the main-mast +was sprung, which they supposed to have +happened in a violent gale some time before; +but effectual methods were immediately taken +to repair the damage. +</p> +<p> +On the 12th they saw land, which was taken +for De Wert’s Islands, and at the same time +other land to the south, which was judged to +be what is called New Islands in the charts. +This land consists chiefly of mountainous and +barren rocks, on which were great numbers of +birds. Seals abound here, and large whales +were seen spouting round the ship. On the +14th they saw a flat island, covered with tufts +of grass as large as bushes; and on the following +day the Commodore sent a boat from each +ship, to examine an opening which had the appearance +of an harbour; which being discovered, +they stood in for it in the afternoon, and found +it excellent beyond their most sanguine hopes. +Soon after this they entered another harbour, +to which Mr. Byron gave the name of Port +Egmont, from the title of the nobleman at that +time First Lord of the Admiralty. This harbour +<span class='pagenum'>17</span>is represented to be the finest in the world, +and capacious enough to contain the whole navy +of England, in full security: there is plenty of +fresh water in every part of it; and geese, +ducks, snipes, and other edible birds, abound +in such numbers, that the sailors were tired with +eating them. The geese were knocked down +with stones, so that it was no unusual thing for +a boat to bring off sixty or seventy of those birds, +without the necessity of shooting a single one. +Seals and penguins abound here; sea lions of a +prodigious size are found on the coast; and +there is plenty of muscles, cockles, clams, and +limpets. The woods produce sorrel and wild +celery in great abundance. +</p> +<p> +The Commodore was once unexpectedly attacked +by a sea lion, and extricated himself +from the impending danger with great difficulty: +they had many battles with this animal, +the killing of one of which was frequently an +hour’s work for six men; one of them almost +tore to pieces the Commodore’s mastiff dog, +by a single bite. The Master having been sent +to sound the coast, four very fierce animals ran +after the boat’s crew till they were up to their +bellies in water; so that they were obliged to +put from the shore, as they had no fire-arms in +the boat. The next day, on the opposite shore, +Mr. Byron and his company saw a sea lion of an +enormous size; and the crew, being well armed, +instantly engaged him. While they were thus +<span class='pagenum'>18</span>employed, one of the other animals posted towards +them; but a ball being lodged in his +body, he was instantly dispatched. Five of +these beasts were killed this day, in their attempts +to seize the men, whom they always +pursued the moment they got sight of them. +They were of a mixed shape, between a wolf +and a fox; most like the latter, but of the size +of the former. They burrow in the ground +like a fox, feed on seals and penguins, and are +very numerous on the coast. The sailors, in +order to be rid of such disagreeable companions, +set fire to the grass, which burnt so rapidly, +that the country was all in a blaze for +some days, and these animals were seen running +to seek shelter from its fury. +</p> +<figure class='max100' style='width: 49em;'> +<img src="images/024.jpg" class="w100 v_align_b" alt=""> +<figcaption><i>The Wolf Fox of Faulkland’s Islands.</i></figcaption> +</figure> +<p> +While they lay in this harbour the crew +breakfasted on portable soup and wild celery, +thickened with oatmeal, which made a very nutritive +mess. The soil of the island was a light +clay under a black mould. The Commodore +thinks this the same place which, in Cowley’s +Voyage, is called Pepys’ Island; but he took +possession of the harbour, and all the adjacent +islands, by the name of <span class="small-caps">Falkland’s Islands</span>, +for George the Third, King of Great Britain. +It is to the honour of the Surgeon of the Tamar +frigate, that during their stay there, he +made a fence of turf near the watering-place, +round a tract of land, which he planted with +<span class='pagenum'>19</span>vegetables, for the use of those who may hereafter +touch at this port. +</p> +<p> +On Sunday, January the 27th, they left Port +Egmont, and the same day saw a remarkable +head-land, which was named <span class="small-caps">Cape Tamar</span>; +soon after which they passed a rock, which Mr. +Byron called the <span class="small-caps">Edistone</span>, and then sailed between +that and a head-land, to which he gave +the name of <span class="small-caps">Cape Dolphin</span>. The distance from +Cape Tamar to Cape Dolphin is about eight +leagues, and, from its appearance, was called +<span class="small-caps">Carlisle Sound</span>, though it is since known to be +the northern entrance of the streight between the +two principal islands. The land seen during the +course of this day was all downs, having neither +trees nor bushes, but large tufts of grass in various +places. +</p> +<p> +Having anchored during the night, they sailed +again the next day, when the Commodore gave +the name of <span class="small-caps">Berkley’s Sound</span> to a deep sound +between the islands. About four miles to the +southward of the south point of this sound the +sea breaks very high, on some rocks that appear +above water. The coast now wore a dangerous +aspect, rocks and breakers being at a considerable +distance from the shore, and in all directions; +and the country appeared barren and desolate. +The sea now rising high, the Commodore +sailed to the northward, to prevent being +driven on a lee-shore. He imagines the whole +<span class='pagenum'>20</span>circumference of Falkland’s Islands to be little +less than 700 miles. +</p> +<p> +At eight in the evening they stood to the +westward, and held their course till the 6th of +February, when they saw, and stood in for, Port +Desire, at the mouth of which they came to an +anchor, and had the pleasure of seeing the Florida, +a store-ship, which they had expected from +England. On Thursday the Master of the store-ship +went on board the Dolphin, and informed +the Commodore of the extreme bad condition +of his ship; on which it was resolved to attempt +the unloading her in the harbour, though a place +very ill calculated for the purpose. They +therefore entered the harbour; but the night +proving very tempestuous, the Tamar and the +Florida both made signals of distress, having +been driven from their moorings up the harbour. +On this and the following night they +were both saved from driving on shore; and as +the store-ship was in constant danger of being +lost, Mr. Byron sent hands on board to assist in +repairing her, and resolved to take her with him +into the Streight of Magellan before he unloaded +her. In this harbour the rudder of the Dolphin +was likewise repaired, there being no timber +proper for making her a new one. +</p> +<p> +On the 13th the Florida put to sea, with orders +to steer directly for Port Famine; and on +the next day she was followed by the Dolphin +and Tamar. The three following days they saw +<span class='pagenum'>21</span>a strange vessel following them, which shaped +her course, and sailed faster or slower, exactly +as they did, a circumstance that caused much +speculation. The Commodore being obliged to +wait for the Florida, which was far a-stern, imagined +the stranger would speak with him, and +therefore made the necessary dispositions to give +her a proper reception. When he came to an +anchor the stranger did the same, four miles to +windward of him; but in the morning she was +seen three leagues to the leeward. She now got +under way, and approached the Dolphin; on +which the Commodore got eight guns, which +were all that could be come at, to one side of +the ship, as he lay at anchor. Neither party +hoisted any colours; but about this time the +store-ship running a-ground, the strange vessel +hoisted French colours, and sent two boats, with +an anchor, to assist her. The Commodore now +sent a boat from each of his ships to the assistance +of the Florida, with positive orders not to +let the French boats board her; but to acknowledge, +in a proper manner, the offer of assistance. +These orders were obeyed, and the store-ship +was got off. +</p> +<p> +They weighed anchor at six in the evening, +and anchored again at eleven; at which time the +French vessel did the same, but in a situation +that shewed her ignorance of the channel they +were in. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>22</span>On the 19th they again sailed; and as the +French vessel steered after them, Mr. Byron +thought they came from Falkland’s Islands, +where there was then a French settlement, to +take in wood, or that they were on a survey of +the Streight of Magellan, in which they were +now sailing. On the 20th they reached Port +Famine, when the Dolphin and Tamar having +taken as much provision out of the store-ship as +they could find room for, the Master received +orders to sail for England as soon as possible; it +being determined to navigate the other ships +through the Streight. +</p> +<p> +On the 25th they passed the French ship, +which was in a small cove, and near her a large +quantity of wood, which the Commodore had +no doubt was intended for their new settlement. +On Mr. Byron’s return to England this appeared +to be the fact; and that the ship was commanded +by Mons. Bougainville, and called the Eagle. +</p> +<p> +The rest of the account of their passage thro’ +the Streight of Magellan, consists chiefly of the +names of places, and descriptions of soundings, +bearings and distances, which could not fail of +proving unintelligible, if not disgusting, to the +generality of readers. Whatever is really worth +the notice of those who read either for instruction +or entertainment, shall be faithfully recited +in the following pages. +</p> +<figure class='max100' style='width: 88em;'> +<img src="images/030.jpg" class="w100 v_align_b" alt=""> +<figcaption><span class="small-caps">A Chart</span> of the <i><span class="small-caps">Straits</span></i> of <span class="small-caps">Magellan</span>.</figcaption> +</figure> +<p> +The mountains on both sides of the Streight are +covered with snow from the top to the bottom; +<span class='pagenum'>23</span>are steep and craggy, and of a most desolate appearance. +On the 1st of March two or three +canoes of Indians followed the ship, one of which +went on board. This canoe was of bark, and +wretchedly made: it contained some men, women, +and a boy, who had bows and arrows, +which they exchanged for beads and other trinkets: +the cord of the bow was made of the gut +of some beast dried, and the arrows were formed +of a reed, pointed with a green stone. These +people had no other garment than a seal skin +thrown over their shoulders, and they made, on +the whole, a most wretched appearance. When +the ship came to an anchor, several of the Indians +went on board, and gladly accepted some +ribbands, beads, and other trifling matters, with +which the Commodore presented them. These +people subsist chiefly on muscles and berries, +some of the latter of which they gave Mr. Byron, +when he returned their visit on shore. +</p> +<p> +Having narrowly escaped the dreadful effects +of a storm on the 3d of March, boats were repeatedly +sent out till the 6th, in search of a proper +place to anchor in; and at length the Dolphin +was moored in a little bay opposite Cape +Quod; and the Tamar, which could not work +up so far, about six miles to the eastward of it. +This part of the Streight being only four miles +over, its appearance is dreary and desolate beyond +imagination, owing to the prodigious +mountains on each side of it, which rise above +<span class='pagenum'>24</span>the clouds, and are covered with perpetual snow. +On the 8th they met with a large number of +shell-fish; and on this day the Commodore went +up a deep lagoon under a rock, at the head of +which was a fine fall of water, and on the east +side of it several small coves, calculated for the +secure reception of ships of the greatest burden. +</p> +<p> +On the 12th an officer was sent in a boat, in +search of an harbour; and in two days he returned +with an account, that there were five +bays between the ship and Cape Upright, in +any one of which they might anchor securely. +While this officer was absent, he met with some +Indians, who made him a present of a dog, +and one of the women having a sucking child, +offered to give it him! At this time winter +commenced with all its severity, and the hills +were soon covered with snow. The cold became +so intense that the seamen, whose clothes +were continually wet, suffered severely: to fortify +them against this inclemency of weather, +the Commodore gave a warm jacket of woollen +stuff, called fearnought, to the crews of both +ships, officers included. +</p> +<p> +On the 16th perceiving they lost ground on +every tack, they came to an anchor; but finding +the ground to be rocky, they weighed again, and +every man on board was on deck the rest of the +day and the whole night, during which time the +rain poured down on them in unremitting torrents. +Notwithstanding this incessant labour, +<span class='pagenum'>25</span>they found, in the morning, that they had been +only losing way, owing to the rapidity of the +current. They were now glad to anchor in the +very bay they had left two days before. +</p> +<p> +As it continued to rain and blow violently +for two days longer, the Commodore sent a boat +to sound the bay on the north shore; but no anchorage +could be found. On the 20th the vessel +was driven from her moorings, but by heaving +up the bower-anchor, and carrying out another, +they soon restored her to her situation. +After labouring all day on the 21st, they had +gained only two miles on the current, when they +came to an anchor; but the sea running high, +they sailed the day following; and the current +now running to the westward, they made great +way, and, in the evening, anchored in a commodious +bay, where the Tamar had arrived before +them. It is remarkable that, notwithstanding +the late severity of the weather added +to their incessant labour, the crew retained both +health and spirits. +</p> +<p> +On the 23d they again set sail, and in a few +hours had sight of the South Sea, which rolled +a prodigious swell on them. On the 25th two +boats which had been sent in search of anchoring-places, +returned with an account, that they +had found two, but neither of them very eligible; +they, however, made sail the next morning, +and at four in the afternoon found themselves +within a mile of the south shore, which +<span class='pagenum'>26</span>the thickness of the weather prevented their seeing +sooner; but as there was no place to anchor +in, they stood for the opposite shore. Between +six and seven the Tamar was ordered under +the stern of the Dolphin, and then directed +to keep a-head of her during the night to show +lights, and as often as she varied her tack to +fire a gun. At seven in the evening the weather +cleared for a minute, so that they had sight +of the north-shore, bearing west by north, on +which they instantly tacked-about. The wind +now blew a perfect hurricane; the rain descended +in torrents; some of the sails were torn +to rags; and during this tempestuous night, in +which the sea was continually breaking over +them, the ships parted company, and were encompassed +with rocks and breakers: however, +they happily weathered the storm, and at seven +in the morning both ships came to an anchor. +They had now been twice within four leagues +of Tuesday’s Bay, at the western mouth of the +streight, and twice driven ten or twelve leagues +back again by storms; so dangerous is the navigation +of this streight at an improper season +of the year. +</p> +<p> +On the 28th the Tamar narrowly escaped being +dashed to pieces against the rocks, by the +parting of the cable to her best bower-anchor. +The Dolphin weighed anchor the next morning, +and got under sail, which she had no sooner +done, than signals of distress were made on +<span class='pagenum'>27</span>board the Tamar, the anchor of which could +not be purchased. The Dolphin, therefore, +stood again into the bay, and sent her the proper +assistance, after which they both anchored +for the night; a night the most dreadful they +had yet known. The winds were so violent as +perfectly to tear up the sea, and carry it higher +than the heads of the masts: a dreadful sea +rolled over them, and broke against the rocks +with a noise as loud as thunder. Happily, they +did not part their cables, or they must have +been dashed in pieces against these rocks. +</p> +<p> +On the following day (April 1st) it was almost +a perfect calm; but in the evening it rained +much, and the wind blew violently: they +therefore remained in their station till the 4th, +when the cutter, which had been sent in search +of a proper anchoring-place, returned with an +account, of having found such place to the west +of the north-shore. +</p> +<p> +The officer who commanded the cutter had +met with a party of Indians, whose canoe was +of a construction not observed before, being +composed of planks sewed together. These +Indians had no covering but a piece of seal-skin +thrown over their shoulders. Their food, which +was of the most indelicate kind, was eaten raw: +one of them tore a piece of stinking whale’s +blubber with his teeth, and then gave it his +companions, who followed his example. One +<span class='pagenum'>28</span>of these Indians observing a sailor asleep, cut +off a part of his jacket with a sharp flint. +</p> +<p> +The ships soon came to an anchor in the bay +which had been discovered, proposing to take +in wood and water. While they remained here, +several of the natives made a fire opposite the +ship; on which signals were made for them to +come on board; but as they would not, the +Commodore went on shore, and gave them some +trifles, which pleased them highly; he likewise +divided some biscuit among them, and was surprized +to remark, that if a bit of it fell to the +ground, not one of them would stoop to take +it up without his permission: some of the sailors +being at this time cutting grass for a few +sheep which the Commodore had on board, the +Indians instantly ran to their assistance, and +tearing up the grass in large quantities, soon +filled the boat. On Mr. Byron’s return, they +followed in their canoe till they came near the +ship, at which they gazed with the most profound +astonishment. Four of them were at +length prevailed on to go on board; and the +Commodore, with a view to their diversion, +directed one of the midshipmen to play on the +violin, while some of the seamen danced; the +poor Indians were extravagantly delighted; and +one of them, to testify his gratitude, took his +canoe, and fetching some red paint, rubbed it +all over the face of the musician; nor could the +Commodore, but with the utmost difficulty, +<span class='pagenum'>29</span>escape the like compliment. When they had +been diverted for some hours, it was hinted to +them, that they should go on shore which they +at length did, tho’ with evident reluctance. +</p> +<p> +They sailed from this bay on the 7th, and on +the 8th again encountered very bad weather, as +it rained and snowed, while the wind blew a +hurricane. On the 9th they passed some dangerous +rocks, which in Narborough’s Voyage +are called the Judges, and on which the surf +beats with prodigious violence. This day, contrary +to expectation, a steady gale at south-west +carried them at the rate of nine miles an hour, +so that by eight in the evening they were 20 +leagues from the coast on which they had encountered +so many perils. +</p> +<p> +The Commodore recommends it to future +navigators, to be at the eastern entrance of the +Streight of Magellan in December; in which +case he thinks even a fleet of ships might navigate +it safely in about three weeks. He observes, +that the facility with which wood and +water are to be obtained; the vast plenty of +vegetables on the coast, and the abundance of +fish which may be almost every where procured, +are advantages highly in favour of this passage. +It is remarkable, that in seven weeks and two +days, the time they were in passing it, not a +single man was sick of the scurvy, or any other +disorder. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>30</span>On the 26th they sailed westward, bearing +away for the Island of Masafuero, which they +were within seven leagues of the same evening. +The next day they bore away for the north +of the Island, and then lay by for the boats, +which had been sent to sound the eastern side, +but could not land for the violence of the +surf. The boats returning, brought a number +of fine fish, which had been catched with the +hook and line: and the officer reporting, that +he had found a bank where they might anchor, +and opposite to which was plenty of fresh water; +they made sail for this bank, on which +they anchored at 7 o’clock on Sunday morning. +The boats were now sent out for wood and water, +their crews having put on cork-jackets, to +assist them in swimming, and prevent their being +bruised against the rocks. In these seas +were a great number of very large sharks, which +were frequently very near the swimmers; but +they providential escaped them. One of these +voracious fish seized a large seal close to one of +the watering-boats, and devoured it in an instant; +and the Commodore saw another do the +same, close to the stern of the ship. The island +abounds in goats, many of which were killed +and sent on board, and they were deemed equal +in flavour to the finest venison. One of the +goats had his right ear slit, so as to make it +evident that some person had caught him, given +him that mark of distinction, and let him go +<span class='pagenum'>31</span>again. Various sorts of excellent fish were now +so plenty, that they could catch sufficient to +supply the whole crew two days, in a few hours, +with hook and line only. +</p> +<p> +The gunner and one of the seamen, who +were, with others, on shore for water, were left +behind all night, being afraid to venture in the +boat, as the sea ran high. The Commodore +being informed of this circumstance, sent them +word, that as blowing weather might be expected, +the ship might be driven from her moorings +in the night, in which case they would infallibly +be left behind. This message being delivered, +the gunner swam to the boat; but the +sailor saying, he had rather die a natural death +than be drowned, refused to make the attempt; +and taking a melancholy farewell of his companions, +resolved to abide his fate; when, just +as the boat was going to put off, a midshipman +took the end of a rope in his hand, and swam +on shore, where he remonstrated with the poor +tar on the foolish resolution he had taken, till +having an opportunity of throwing the rope, +in which was a running knot, round his body, +he called to the boat’s crew, who instantly +dragged their companion on board, but he had +swallowed so much water that he appeared to +be dead. They recovered him, however, by +holding up his heels, and on the day following +he was perfectly well. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>32</span>The Commodore now made a promotion +among the officers, he appointed captain Mouat, +captain of the Dolphin under him, making +Mr. Cumming, the first lieutenant of the Dolphin, +captain of the Tamar, and advancing +some other inferior officers. +</p> +<p> +They sailed on the 30th of April, steering +in various directions till the 10th of May, on +which, and the day following, they saw several +dolphins and bonettas round the ship, and observed +a few birds which had a short beak; all +their bodies being white, except the back and +the upper part of the wings. They saw several +grampuses the next day, and more of the birds +just mentioned; from whence they concluded, +that they approached some land. Two remarkable +birds, as large as geese, with white +bodies and black legs, and which flew very +high, were observed on the 16th, from whence +it was conjectured, that they had passed some +main-land, or islands. On the 22d they saw +several tropic birds, and caught two bonettas; +and on the 26th two large birds, the beak and +neck of which were white, and all the rest +black, flew about the ship. On the 28th two +other birds, one black and white, and the other +brown and white, would have settled on the +yards, but were intimidated by the working of +the ship. For several days after they saw great +numbers of birds, and on the 7th of June they +discovered land, being then in fourteen degrees +<span class='pagenum'>33</span>five minutes south latitude, and 144 degrees +58 minutes west longitude. +</p> +<p> +The Commodore now steered for a small +island, the appearance of which was pleasing +beyond expression, being surrounded by a beach +of fine white sand, and covered with lofty trees, +which extending their shade to a considerable +distance, and having no underwood, formed the +most elegant groves that the imagination can +paint an idea of. Several of the natives soon +appeared, having long spears in their hands, +who made large fires, which were answered by +corresponding fires on an island to the windward. +A boat was sent to look out for an anchoring-place, +but none was to be found. At +this time many of the best hands were confined +to their hammocks with the scurvy; while those +who were able to keep the deck, looked and +languished for those re-invigorating delicacies +which were unhappily beyond their reach. The +shells of turtle were strewed along the shore, +and they beheld numbers of cocoa-nuts, to the +milk of which fruit the scurvy seldom fails to +yield. The inhabitants of this island kept +a-breast of the ship, dancing and shouting: +they sometimes shook their spears, and then +falling backwards, lay motionless, as if dead, +which was understood to be a threat of destruction +to such as should presume to land. They +likewise fixed two spears in the sand, on the top +of which were fastened some things which +<span class='pagenum'>34</span>waved in the air: before these they kneeled, and +appeared as if invoking the assistance of the +Deity against the supposed invaders. The Commodore +was tempted, from its very appearance, +to sail round the island; while he was doing +which, he again sent out boats to sound; on, +which the natives made a most hideous out-cry; +took up and balanced large stones in their +hands, and pointed to their spears. The sailors, +on the contrary, made every possible sign +of friendship, throwing bread and other things +on shore; which they would not touch, but +retired to the woods, dragging their canoes +after them. This being done, they ran into +the water, watching as for an opportunity to +drag the boat on shore. The seamen, irritated +at this behaviour, would have fired on the Indians, +but were restrained by command of the +officer on board. +</p> +<p> +The crew of the boats having again reported, +that no anchorage could be found, the Commodore +proceeded to the other island, and on +the next morning brought to, at three quarters +of a mile from the shore. Several other islands +were now seen, covered with the cocoa-nut-tree. +The natives again ran to the beach, +armed with clubs and spears, using threatening +gestures. The Commodore fired a cannon-shot +over their heads, on which they retreated +to the woods. The boats having been again +sent out, returned with an account, that no +<span class='pagenum'>35</span>landing-place could be found; on which Mr. +Byron named this paradise in appearance, the +<span class="small-caps">Islands of Disappointment</span>. The natives +are stout, and well made, very quick runners, +and their complexion is that of the deep copper. +</p> +<p> +Having sailed on the 8th of June, they discovered +an island on the day following, which +laid low, and was covered with various kinds +of trees, among which was the cocoa-nut; the +island was surrounded with a rock of red coral. +The inhabitants on the coast having made large +fires, as supposed to alarm the more inland natives, +they ran along the shore in multitudes, +armed like those of the Islands of Disappointment. +The vessels now brought to, at a small +inlet, opening into a lake of salt water, which +appeared more than two leagues wide. At +this place was a little town, under the shade +of a grove of cocoa-nut-trees. The ships advancing +to the mouth of the inlet, some hundreds +of the natives, headed by a kind of officer, +who carried a pole, on which was fastened +a piece of mat, ranged themselves up to the +waists in water, making a hideous noise, till they +were joined by a number of large canoes which +came down the lake. At this time two boats +were out in search of soundings, and the crews +of them making every possible sign of friendship, +some of the canoes drew towards them, +not, indeed, as we hoped, with a peaceable +intention, but with a view to haul the boats on +<span class='pagenum'>36</span>shore: several of the natives, leaping from the +rocks, swam to the boats; and one of them +sprang into the Tamar’s boat, snatched up a +seaman’s jacket, and instantly dived from the +boat to the shore: another of them laid violent +hands on a hat, but lost his prize through his +ignorance, as he pulled it downwards, instead +of lifting it from the head. +</p> +<p> +They now sailed westward, and soon discovered +another island, distant four leagues. The +natives pursued them in two large double canoes, +in each of which were about thirty armed men. +At this time the boats were at a considerable +way to leeward of the ships, and were chaced +by the canoes; on which the Commodore making +a signal, the boats turned towards the Indians, +who instantly pulled down their sails, and +rowed away with great rapidity: they drove +through the violent surf on the shore, and were +followed by the boats; when, apprehending +the invasion of their country, they armed themselves +with stones and clubs; on which the boat’s +crew fired, and killed two or three of them, +one of whom died as he was throwing a stone +at his enemy, after three balls had gone thro’ +his body<a href='#fn_1' id='fnb_1' class='fn_anchor'>[1]</a>. This poor fellow dropping close +to the boats, his body was brought to the ship; +but the Indians carried off the rest of their +<span class='pagenum'>37</span>companions. The boats carried the two canoes +with them, as the trophies of their scandalous +victory. These vessels consisted of planks sewed +together, with a strip of tortoiseshell fixed over +each seam: they had sharp bottoms, and were +very narrow; and two of them were fastened +a-longside each other by two timbers, which left +a space of full six feet between the canoes: a +sail, made of neat matting, passed from one vessel +to the other, being fixed to a mast which was +hoisted in each of them: when they sail, several +men sit on the timbers which lay from boat to +boat: their cordage appeared to be formed of +the outer covering of the cocoa-nut, and was +exquisitely well made. +</p> +<div class='footnote' id='fn_1'> +<p> +<a href='#fnb_1'>[1]</a> Horrid, wanton murder!⁠—If discoveries are to be +purchased at such a price, the southern hemisphere had better +have remained unknown. +</p> +</div> +<p> +As no refreshments could be obtained, owing +to the violence of the surf, the Commodore +returned to his former station at the inlet, and +again sent the boats in search of an anchoring-place. +A number of the Indians were on the spot +where he had left them, and were loading some +large canoes, most probably to attack the boats; +on which a shot was fired over their heads, and +they instantly ran away and secreted themselves. +The boats returned in the evening, with a few +cocoa-nuts; and in the morning were sent out +again, with all the invalids who were able to go +in them. The Commodore went on shore this +day, and saw many Indian huts, which were covered +with the branches of the cocoa-nut-tree: +they were mean buildings, but finely situated +<span class='pagenum'>38</span>among groves of lofty trees. The men went +naked; but some women were seen, who wore +a kind of cloth from the waist to the knee. +The shore abounded with coral, and the shells +of large pearl oysters; and ’tis probable a valuable +pearl-fishery might be established here. +There were many dogs in the huts, who kept +barking constantly till our adventurers went on +board. +</p> +<p> +The next day the seamen found, in one of +the huts, the carved head of a rudder, which +had evidently belonged to a Dutch long boat: +they likewise found a piece of brass, another of +iron, and some iron tools; but by whom these +things were left is wholly unknown. +</p> +<p> +The burial-places of the natives were under +high trees, near their houses; and their tombs +consisted of flat stones, laid on perpendicular +side stones, like those in the church-yards of +England. On the branches which shaded these +repositories hung baskets of reeds, containing +the heads and bones of turtle and other fish, +and near the graves were several boxes filled +with human bones. +</p> +<p> +The flies on this island were extremely troublesome, +but no venomous creature was seen. +Parrots and other birds were very plentiful, and +they saw some beautiful doves, so tame as to +follow them into the huts of the Indians. The +water of the island is good, and the surface of +the ground is almost covered with scurvy-grass. +<span class='pagenum'>39</span>This part of the island is situated in 14 degrees +29 minutes south, and 148 degrees 50 minutes +west. +</p> +<p> +On Wednesday, June the 12th, they sailed +to another island, and as they coasted along it, +the natives, armed as those of the other islands, +kept even with the ship for some leagues. +They frequently plunged into the sea, or fell +on the sand, that the surf might break over +them, to cool and refresh themselves. The +boats being near the shore, the crew made signs +that they were in want of water; on which the +natives pointed farther along the shore, where, +when the boats arrived, they saw a number of +houses, and whither they were followed by the +Indians, many more of whom joined them at +this place. The boats having got close in shore, +and the ships laying at a small distance, a venerable +old man, with a white beard, advanced +from the houses to the beach, attended by a +young fellow. Having made a signal for the +other Indians to retire, he came forward to the +edge of the water, pressing his beard to his +breast with one hand, and holding a branch of +a tree in the other. He now made a kind of +musical oration, during which the people in the +boat threw him some trifling presents, which he +would neither take up, nor permit his attendant +to touch till he had finished his harangue, when +he walked into the water, and throwing the +branch to the boat’s crew, he retired, and picked +<span class='pagenum'>40</span>up their presents. Most of the natives having +complied with a sign made for them to lay +down their arms, one of the Midshipmen swam +ashore; on which they flocked round him, admiring +his cloaths; as his waistcoat pleased them +most he gave it to them, which he had no sooner +done, than one of them untied his cravat and +ran away with it. He now thought it time to +retreat to the boat, whither several of the natives +swam after him; some bringing each a +cocoa-nut, and others fresh water in the nut-shell. +The boat’s crew had taken with them +some shells of the pearl oyster, in order to learn +of the natives how to procure some pearls; but +they could not possibly make them comprehend +their meaning. This island is situated in 14 degrees +41 minutes south latitude, and 149 degrees +15 minutes west longitude; and both the +islands the Commodore called <span class="small-caps">King George’s +Islands</span>, in respect to his Sovereign. In a lake +belonging to the last island, two or three very +large vessels were seen, one of which had two +masts, with proper cordage. +</p> +<p> +The boats having returned on board, they +sailed westward the same day; and the next afternoon +decried another island, towards which +they immediately sailed, and found that it was +well inhabited, and had a fine appearance of +verdure; but that a violent surf broke all along +the coast. It lies in 15 degrees south, and 151 +<span class='pagenum'>41</span>degrees 53 minutes west, and received the name +of the <span class="small-caps">Prince of Wales’s Island</span>. +</p> +<p> +They now sailed northward. From the vast +flocks of birds they had repeatedly seen, which +always winged their way to the south, on the +approach of evening; and from the islands +being so well peopled, the Commodore concluded +that there was a chain of islands leading +to a continent, the discovery of which he would +certainly have attempted, but the crews of both +ships were so unhealthy, as to render it impossible +for us to succeed. +</p> +<p> +On Monday, June the 17th, they concluded +that land was near, from the multitudes of +birds which flocked about the ship; but they +saw no land till the 21st, when it was discovered +at eight leagues distance, having the appearance +of three islands, with rocks between them. +These islands abounded with inhabitants, whose +dwellings lined the coast; and the beauty and +fertility of the soil, seemed to excel that of any +place they had seen: but the rocks and breakers +with which it was surrounded, were an insuperable +bar to any attempt at landing. On +the night of the 21st all hands were on deck, +as it rained hard, and the wind blew violently. +Soon after nine o’clock the Tamar fired a gun, +and the crew of the Dolphin imagined they saw +breakers to leeward; but it proved to be only +the undulating reflection of the setting moon +on the waters. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>42</span>On the 24th they discovered another island, +which was named the <span class="small-caps">Duke of York’s Island</span>. +A terrible sea breaks round the coast, but the +place itself had a pleasing appearance. The +boats landed with some difficulty, and brought +off a large quantity of cocoa-nuts, which were +a great relief to the sick. Thousands of sea-fowls +were found sitting on their nests in high +trees, and were so tame as to be easily knocked +down, and there were great numbers of land-crabs +on the ground. This island has a large +lake in the midst of it, but has no inhabitants. +</p> +<p> +On the 29th they sailed northward, with a +view to cross the equinoxial line, and then sail +for the Ladrone Islands. On the 2d of July +they discovered a low flat island, abounding with +the cocoa-nut and other trees, and affording a +most agreeable prospect. A great number of +the natives were seen on the beach, many of +whom, in above sixty canoes or proas, sailed, +and formed a circle round the ships; which +having surveyed for a considerable time, one of +the Indians jumped out of his boat, swam to +the ship, ran up its side in a moment, sat down +on the deck, and began laughing most violently: +he then ran about the ship, pilfering whatever +he could lay hands on, which was taken from +him as fast as stolen. This man having as many +antic tricks as a monkey, was dressed in a jacket +and trowsers, and afforded exquisite diversion. +He devoured some biscuit with great eagerness, +<span class='pagenum'>43</span>and having played the buffoon some time, made +prize of his new dress, by jumping over the side +of the ship, and swimming to his companions. +Several others now swam to the ship, and running +up the side to the gun-room ports, committed +some petty theft, swimming off with their +booty with surprising expedition. These Indians +are of a bright copper, with regular and +chearful features, and are tall and well made. +Their hair, which is long and black, is either +tied in three knots, or in a large bunch behind. +Their ears were bored, and they certainly had +worn heavy ornaments in them, as some of them +were drawn down almost to their shoulders: +their ornaments were shells strung together, and +worn round the waist, wrist, and neck; but they +were otherwise naked. One of them, who seemed +to be of some rank, wore a string of human +teeth round his waist. Some of them carried a +long spear, the sides of which, for the length of +three feet, were stuck with the teeth of the shark, +which are as keen as a razor. Some cocoa-nuts +being shewn them, and signs made that more +were wanted, they endeavoured to steal those, +instead of directing where more might be found. +</p> +<p> +The officers named this place <span class="small-caps">Byron’s Island</span>, +in honour of the Commodore. It lies in 1 degree +18 minutes south latitude, and 173 degrees +46 minutes east longitude. They sailed from +hence on the 3d of July, on the 21st of which +month the men again grew ill of the scurvy, +<span class='pagenum'>44</span>having eaten up all the cocoa-nuts, which are, +perhaps, the best cure for this disorder in the +world. Several of the people were also troubled +with fluxes, owing to the extreme heat of +the weather. On the 22d they sailed for the +island of Tinian, being nearly in the latitude +of that place; and six days afterwards they had +sight of the islands Saypan, Tinian, and Aiguigan, +which lie between two and three leagues +from each other. At noon, on the 31st, they +anchored at the south-west end of Tinian, in +the situation where the Centurion had anchored +with Commodore Anson. The water is so wonderfully +clear at this place, that, though 144 +feet deep, they could see the ground. +</p> +<p> +The Commodore went on shore, where he +saw many huts, which had been left the preceding +year by the Spaniards and Indians. Having +chosen a spot on which to erect tents for +the sick, Mr. Byron and his company, with +prodigious difficulty, worked their way through +the woods, in search of those elegant meadows +and lawns, of which so enchanting a picture is +given in Anson’s Voyage: but, to their unspeakable +mortification, they found the lawns +covered with reeds, in which their legs were +entangled, and cut as with whipcord; and these +reeds were, in some places, higher than their +heads, and in none less than half that height. +From head to foot they were covered with flies, +which got down their throats as often as they +<span class='pagenum'>45</span>opened their mouths. In this excursion they +killed a bull, and then retiring to the tents, +which had been erected in their absence, they +sent a party to fetch home their prize. +</p> +<p> +The invalids having been brought on shore the +preceding day, they, on the 1st of August, began +clearing the well, which Mr. Byron supposes to +be the same that the Centurion watered at; but +he says the water was brackish, and full of worms. +While they lay here the wind once drove in so violently +from the west, that the ships were obliged +to put to sea for a week, to avoid being dashed +against the rocks. The armourer’s forge was +brought on shore, to repair the iron-work of the +ships; and the Commodore had a tent erected, +as he was very ill of the scurvy. The crew recovered +apace from the scurvy; but many of them +were seized with fevers, of whom two died, being +the first they had lost since they left England. +The rains were violent, and almost perpetual; +and the heat so intense, that the thermometer +on board the ship generally stood at +86, only 9 degrees less than the heat of the +blood at the human heart. Innumerable insects +tormented them; and they were perpetually infested +by musquitos in the night, and flies by +day. The island swarms also with black ants, +centipieds, and scorpions. +</p> +<p> +Parties were sent out to kill cattle, which, after +being absent three days and nights, and killing +a bullock, had seven or eight miles to drag +<span class='pagenum'>46</span>it through the woods and lawns, and when it +arrived, it was commonly fly-blown, and stunk +intolerably: add to this, that the extreme toil +of this duty brought on fevers, which confined +the men to their tents. They killed poultry +with ease; but the heat was so excessive, that it +would turn green, and swarm with maggots, in +less than an hour after it was killed. They killed +wild hogs that weighed 200 pounds each, +which afforded them their chief supply of fresh +meat. A negro belonging to the Tamar contrived +a method to ensnare these animals, so that +they sent many on board alive, and were thus +always certain of having fresh meat both in the +ship and on shore. +</p> +<p> +A spot having been found where cattle were +plentiful, a party was sent to kill them, having +a tent erected for their use, and boats were sent +daily to bring away what they killed: three of +the crew of the Tamar were lost in this service, +by the violent breaking of the sea upon the rocks. +Bread was now baked every day for the use of +the sick, and, upon the whole, they were well +supplied with provisions. +</p> +<p> +The island of Saypan is not only larger, but +pleasanter than Tinian. It is, in a great degree, +covered with trees, and abounds with hogs and +guanicoes. It is conjectured that the Spaniards, +at stated periods, carry on a pearl-fishery at this +island, as there were evident signs of people +<span class='pagenum'>47</span>having been lately there, and large heaps of the +oyster-shells were seen. +</p> +<p> +The Commodore remained at Tinian till the +30th of September, by which time the sick being +tolerably well recovered, he weighed anchor, +and stood to the northward. This island produces +plenty of cotton and indigo, with cocoa-nuts, +bread-fruit, guavas, paupaus, sour oranges, +and limes. +</p> +<p> +On the 18th of October several land-birds, +apparently much fatigued, flew near the ship; +one of which, of the size of a goose, rested on +the booms: its legs and beak were black, but +every other part white; and the beak was of a +most monstrous length and thickness. On the +30th they saw a number of trees and bamboos +floating near the vessel, which was then in 23 +fathom water. On the 5th of November they +came to an anchor off the Island of Timoan, +on which Mr. Byron landed the day following. +The inhabitants, who are Malays, no sooner +saw the boat making for the shore, than many +of them came to the beach, each having a dagger +by his side, a spear in one hand, and a long +knife in the other. The boat’s crew, however, +made no hesitation to land, and bartered a few +handkerchiefs for a goat, a kid, and a dozen of +fowls. +</p> +<p> +The Malays are of a copper complexion, +well made, but of small stature. They wore +turbans on their heads, and pieces of cloth, fastened +<span class='pagenum'>48</span>with a silver clasp, round the waist; but +one old man among them was habited nearly in +the Persian fashion. Their houses, which are +raised on posts eight feet from the ground, are +composed of the bamboo, slit, and are very +neatly constructed. The island produces the +cocoa-nut and cabbage-trees in great abundance, +and there are some rice grounds on it. +While the ships lay at anchor, some of the inhabitants +brought a living animal on board, +which had legs like that of a deer, with a body +like a hare, which proved to be very fine eating. +The crews catched large quantities of fish +in this harbour, from whence they sailed on the +7th of the month. +</p> +<p> +Nothing worth notice happened till the 14th, +when a sloop being seen at anchor in the harbour +of an Island named Pulo Toupoa, Mr. +Byron, having anchored in the same harbour, +and observed that the vessel hoisted Dutch Colours, +sent an officer on board her, who was received +with great politeness, tea being immediately +made for him and his attendants; but he +could not make himself understood, the crew +consisting entirely of Malays. This vessel, +which was made of slit bamboo, had a piece of +timber on each quarter, which served to steer +her instead of a rudder. +</p> +<p> +The Commodore sailed the following day, +and held his course till the 19th, when he spoke +with an English Snow, bound from Bencoolen +<span class='pagenum'>49</span>to Malacca and Bengal, in the East India Company’s +service. At this time their biscuit was +filled with worms and rotten, and their beef +and pork was stinking. The master of the +Snow being apprized of this circumference, sent +Mr. Byron two gallons of arrack, a turtle, +twelve fowls, and a sheep; which is supposed +to have been the half of his stock, and for which +he refused to accept the slightest return. They +dropped their anchors this day in the road of +Sumatra; and on the 27th, came to an anchor +in that of Batavia. +</p> +<p> +Having anchored nearer the town on the following +day, they fired eleven guns, which were +returned; and an English ship from Bombay +fired 13 guns in honour of the Commodore. +</p> +<p> +The Dutch Commodore sent his boat on board +the Dolphin, under the command of his cockswain, +who made but a shabby appearance. He +put several questions to Mr. Byron respecting +his voyage and destination, and took a book from +his pocket to write down his answers, which +Mr. Byron considering as an indignity, desired +him instantly to leave the ship; which he did +not think proper to hesitate at doing. +</p> +<p> +Mr. Byron visited the Dutch Commodore at +his country-house, was received with great politeness, +and told, that he might take a house +in any part of the city, or be lodged at the hotel. +Any inhabitant of Batavia permitting a +stranger to sleep, though but for a single night, +<span class='pagenum'>50</span>in his house, incurs a penalty of 500 dollars; +the hotel being the only licensed lodging house, +the Governor appoints the keeper of it, who at +this time was a Frenchman. This hotel is the +most superb building in the city, having more +the air of a palace than an inn. All the streets +of Batavia are well disposed, and having canals +running through them, resemble the cities of +Holland. The inhabitants are a motley herd +of Dutch, Portuguese, Chinese, Persians, Moors, +Malays, Javanese, &c. and their numbers are +amazingly great. The Chinese live in a kind of +separate town without the city walls, and deal +very largely, having annually ten or twelve vessels +laden from China. The roads, for several +miles round the city, are very wide, and have +a canal, shaded with trees, running by them, +which is broad enough for the navigation of +large vessels. Adjoining to this canal are the +country-houses and gardens of the citizens. +</p> +<p> +The ships remained in this harbour till the +10th of December, when they sailed, being saluted +with eleven guns by the fort, and thirteen +by the Dutch Commodore. During their run +from hence to Prince’s Island, in the Streight +of Sunda, they were so abundantly supplied +with turtle, by boats from the Java shore, that +the common sailors subsisted wholly on that fish. +They staid at Prince’s Island till the 19th, when +they sailed for the Cape of Good Hope. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>51</span>On the 10th of February they saw a great +smoke arising from a sandy beach, which they +supposed to have been made by the Hottentots. +On the 13th they came to an anchor, and the +next morning the Governor sent his coach and +six for the Commodore, and received him with +great politeness, offering him the accommodations +of the company’s house in the garden, and +the use of his coach. The Cape is a fine country, +situated in a healthy climate, and abounding +with various kinds of refreshments. In a +paddock adjoining the Company’s garden, +which is extremely elegant, ostriches, zebras, +and other curious birds and animals are constantly +kept. The Commodore frequently gave +his men permission to go on shore, and they as +constantly returned⁠—drunk with the Cape wine. +</p> +<p> +They sailed on the 7th of March, and on +the 25th crossed the equinoctial line. About +this time an accident happening to the rudder +of the Tamar, and it being impossible to make +a perfect repair of it at sea, the Captain was ordered +to bear away for Antigua; in consequence +of which, they parted company on the first of +April; and the Dolphin, without meeting with +any other material occurrence, came to an anchor +in the Downs on the 9th of May, 1766, after +having been rather above twenty-two months in +the circumnavigation of the globe. +</p> +<div class="chapter"><span class='pagenum'>52</span> +<h2 class='nobreak'> +<span class='l12'><span class="small-caps"><span class='lspc'>Captain WALLIS</span>’s</span></span><br> +<span class='font2p'><span class='lspd'>VOYAGE</span></span><br> +<span class='lspc'>ROUND THE WORLD</span>. +</h2></div> +<p class='two_space drop-cap'> +S<span class='toupper lspz ip2'>amuel Wallis</span>, Esq; having been appointed +to the command of his Majesty’s +ship the Dolphin, which was destined for a Voyage +round the World, he sailed down the river +on the 26th of July, and came to an anchor in +Plymouth Sound on the 16th of August; three +days after which he received sailing orders, and +directions to take under his command the Swallow +sloop, and Prince Frederick store-ship. +These vessels sailed on the 22d, and on the 7th +of September, in the evening, came to an anchor +in the road of Madeira. The next morning +Captain Wallis saluted the Governor with +13 guns, and the compliment was returned with +an equal number. +</p> +<p> +They sailed thence on the 12th, after having +taken in beef, wine, and onions, as sea-stores. On +the 16th, as they were sailing off the Island of Palma, +at the rate of eight miles an hour, the wind +suddenly died away, so that the vessels lay quite +still. On the 20th they catched several bonettas, +out of a great number which surrounded the +ship; and this day they saw some herons flying +to the eastward. The Swallow, which was a +bad sailer, parted from the other vessels, in the +night between the 21st and 22d, but she joined +<span class='pagenum'>53</span>company again on the 24th, within six leagues +of the Isle of May. This day the three vessels +came to an anchor in Port Praya, in the above-mentioned +island; and the next morning they +obtained leave from the commanding officer at +the fort, to get water and other necessaries. +This being the sickly season there, and the small-pox +being very fatal, the Captain detained every +man on board who had not had that distemper. +</p> +<p> +They here catched great quantities of fish, +and having procured cattle and water, and found +some wild purslain that was very refreshing, they +sailed on the 28th; and, in the night, saw the +burning mountain on the peak of Fuego. Captain +Wallis now ordered every man to be furnished +with hook and line, that he might supply +himself with fish; and likewise, to prevent +infection, commanded that no man should keep +his fish above twenty-four hours. On the 20th +they began to serve the crews with oil, all the +butter and cheese being consumed; and orders +were issued, that, during the remainder of the +voyage, they should be served with vinegar and +mustard once a fortnight. On the 22d they +judged that they were within 60 degrees of land, +from the sight of a great number of birds. +Two days after this orders were given for serving +the men with brandy, the wine being reserved +for those that were ill. On the 27th the +Prince Frederick sprung a leak, and her crew +were at this time so sickly, through the fatigue of +<span class='pagenum'>54</span>pumping, and the badness of their provisions, +that her commander, Lieut. Brine, was apprehensive +he could not keep company much longer, +except some assistance could be given him. The +Captain sent a carpenter and six sailors on board, +but he was unable to supply her with better provisions. +As the carpenter found he could do +little toward stopping the leak in the store-ship, +the Dolphin and Swallow compleated their provisions +from her stores, and put on board her the +empty oil jars, staves, and iron hoops. +</p> +<p> +By the 12th of November they were in 30 +degrees of south latitude, when they found the +weather so cold as to have recourse to their thick +jackets. On the 19th, at eight o’clock at night, +they saw a meteor, which flew horizontally from +north-east to south-west, leaving a train of light, +which made it as bright as at mid-day on the +deck. From the 20th to the 22d they saw +whales, seals; snipes, plover, and other birds, +and some butterflies. On the 8th of December +they saw land, and on the 9th remarked, that +the sea appeared coloured, by the immense quantities +of red shrimps that surrounded the ship. +</p> +<p> +On the 16th, being very near Cape Virgin +Mary, they saw several men riding on the shore, +who made signs for them to land. Having come +to an anchor, they observed that the natives remained +opposite the ship all night, shouting +aloud, and keeping up large fires. In the morning +the Captain went on shore, with a boat’s +<span class='pagenum'>55</span>crew from each ship, and having made signs for +the Indians to sit down, he gave them combs, +buttons, knives, scissars, beads, &c. and pleased +the women greatly by the distribution of some +ribbands. He then intimated that he should be +glad to accept some guanicoes and ostriches, in +exchange for bill-hooks and hatchets, which he +shewed them; but they were either really or designedly +ignorant of his meaning. The tallest +among these people was six feet seven inches, +several others were from one to two inches shorter; +but the general height was from five feet +ten to six feet. They were muscular and well +made, but their hands and feet very small, in proportion +to the rest of their bodies. They were dressed +in the skin of the guanico, with the hairy side +to their bodies; and some of them wore a square +piece of cloth, made of the hair of the guanico, +and a hole being cut to admit the head through, +it reached down to the knees: they wore likewise +a kind of buskin from the middle of the +leg to the instep, which was also conveyed under +the heel, but the rest of the foot was bare: +their hair, which was strait and coarse, was tied +back with a cotton string; and their complexion +was the dark copper. They rode on horses about +fourteen hands high, and had dogs of the Spanish +kind; both men and women rode astride, +and the men were furnished with wooden spurs: +some of the men had their arms painted, the +faces of others were variously marked, and others +<span class='pagenum'>56</span>again had the left eye enclosed by a painted circle. +Their arms were two round stones, enclosed +with leather, one of which was fastened +at each end of a string eight feet in length: and +one stone being held in the hand, the other was +swung round the head with great force for some +time, and then discharged at any mark they chose +to strike. They likewise catch guanicoes and +ostriches by means of this cord, which is thrown +so, that the weight twists round and hampers the +legs of the intended prey. Some of them were +observed to devour the paunch of an ostrich raw, +having only turned the inside outwards, and +shook off some of the filth. +</p> +<p> +These people, who are great talkers, were +often heard to say <i>Ca-pi-ta-ne</i>, on which they +were successively addressed in Portuguese, Spanish, +Dutch, and French; but they had no +knowledge of either of those languages. When +they shook hands with any of the crew, they +always said <i>chevow</i>; and they were amazingly +ready in learning English words, and pronounced +the sentence “Englishmen come on shore” +with great facility. +</p> +<p> +As they seemed desirous of going on board, +the Captain took eight of them into the boats, +on which they instantly began singing for joy; +but when they came into the ship, they expressed +no kind of surprize at the novelties they beheld, +till a looking glass being observed, they +acted many antic gestures before it, occasionally +<span class='pagenum'>57</span>walking to and from it, talking with earnestness, +and laughing immoderately. They would drink +nothing but water, but they eagerly ate every +article of the ship’s provisions. They were +highly pleased with some turkies and guinea-hens +which were on board, nor did the hogs and +sheep escape their attention. One of them making +signs that he should be glad of some cloaths, +the Captain gave him a pair of shoes and buckles, +and presented the rest with a little bag each, in +which he put new six-pences and halfpence, with +a ribband passed through a hole in them, to +hang round their necks: the remaining contents +of the bag were, a looking-glass, a comb, some +beads, a knife, a pair of scissars, some twine, +and a few slips of cloth: being offered some tobacco, +they smoked a few minutes, but did not +seem to like it. The marines being exercised +before them, they were terrified at the firing of +the muskets, and one of them falling down, +shut his eyes, and lay without motion, as if to +intimate that he knew the destructive nature of +those weapons. +</p> +<p> +It was with difficulty that they were at length +prevailed on to go on shore; and one of them +would not leave the ship till he had sung a long +kind of prayer, and even petitioned to stay till +evening, by pointing to the sun, and then moving +his hand round to the western horizon. As +soon as they were in the boat they began to sing, +and did not cease till they reached the shore, +<span class='pagenum'>58</span>where many of their companions pressed eagerly +to be taken into the boat, and were highly affronted +at being refused. +</p> +<p> +This day they turned into the Streight of +Magellan with the flood-tide, and saw many +people on horseback hunting the guanicoes, +which ran up the country with prodigious swiftness. +The natives lighted fires opposite the ships, +and in the morning about 400 of them, with +their horses feeding near them, were observed +in a valley. This being the spot where Mr. +Byron saw the Patagonians, some officers were +sent towards the shore, but with orders not to +land, as the ships were too far off to assist them +in case of necessity. When they came near the +land, many of the natives flocked towards them, +among whom were women and children, and +some of the very men they had seen the preceding +day: these waded towards the boat, frequently +calling out, “Englishmen come on +shore;” and were with difficulty restrained from +getting into the boat, when they found the +crews would not land. Some bread, tobacco, +and toys were distributed, but not an article of +provisions could be obtained in return. +</p> +<p> +On the 23d the tide was so violent, that the +ships were driven three several ways; but in +the evening they were safely anchored. On +Christmas-day they procured a quantity of celery +from Elizabeth Island, which being boiled +with portable soup and wheat, the crews breakfasted +<span class='pagenum'>59</span>on it several days. Many huts were found +on this island, and two dogs were seen; but the +Indians had quitted it for the present. Many high +mountains were observed, which, though it was +then the midst of summer, were, in a great degree, +covered with snow. +</p> +<p> +On the 26th they anchored in Port Famine +Bay, and the sick were sent on shore, where a +tent was erected for their reception, as was another +for the accommodation of the sail-makers, +and those who landed to get wood. On the 28th +the empty water-casks were landed; and on this +day great quantities of fish were catched, among +which were smelts. When they arrived here, +many of the people were very bad with the +scurvy; but by the plentiful use of vegetables, +and bathing in the sea, they all recovered in a +very short time. +</p> +<p> +All hands were now employed in repairing +and storeing the ships; and thousands of young +trees were carefully taken up with the mould +about them, to be carried to Falkland’s Islands, +which produce no timber. +</p> +<p> +On the 17th of January, 1765, the Master +of the Dolphin, who had been in search of anchoring-places, +returned with an account, that +he had found such as were proper for the purpose; +and this day the Prince Frederick sailed +for Falkland’s Islands. +</p> +<p> +They sailed on the 18th, and came to an anchor +the next day, half a mile from the shore, +<span class='pagenum'>60</span>opposite a current of fresh water, that falls rapidly +from the mountains. As a more convenient +anchoring-place, and at the same time better +adapted for procuring wood and water, had +been discovered, they sailed again the next day, +and, on the 23d, came to an anchor in the bay +near Cape Gallant, where they catched wild +ducks in such numbers, as to afford them a very +seasonable relief. Near this spot are very high +mountains, one of which was climbed by the +Master of the Swallow, with the hope of getting +a view of the South Sea; but being disappointed +in his expectation, he erected a pyramid, +and having written the ship’s name and +the date of the year, he left the same, with a +shilling within the structure. +</p> +<p> +On the 24th they saw an animal that was as +swift as a deer, and had a cloven foot; but in +other respects it was like an ass. Near this spot +the country has a most forbidding aspect:⁠—the +mountains on both sides of the Streight are of a +stupendous height; the lower parts of them are +covered with trees, above which a space is occupied +by withered shrubs; higher up are fragments +of broken rock, and heaps of snow; and +the tops are totally rude, naked, and desolate. +</p> +<p> +On the evening of the 28th they saw a great +smoke on the southern shore, and another on +Prince Rupert’s Island; and the next morning +some people being sent on shore for water, they +had no sooner landed, than several of the natives +<span class='pagenum'>61</span>came off in three canoes; and, having advanced +towards the sailors, made signs of friendship, +which being answered to their wish, they shouted +aloud, and the English shouted in return. When +the Indians came up they were eating the flesh +of seals raw, and were covered with the skins, +which stunk intolerably. They had bows, arrows, +and javelins, the two last of which were +pointed with flint. These people were rather +low of stature, the tallest of them not exceeding +five feet six inches, and their complexion +was the deep copper colour. +</p> +<p> +Three of these people being taken on board +the Dolphin, they ate whatever food was offered +them; but, like the Patagonians, would +drink only water:⁠—like them too, they were +highly diverted with a looking-glass, in which +they at first looked with astonishment, till, having +become a little more familiar with it, they +smiled at its effect; and finding a corresponding +smile from the figure in the glass, they burst into +most immoderate fits of laughter. +</p> +<p> +The Captain going on shore with them, presented +some trinkets to their wives and children, +and received some of their arms, and pieces +of mundic, of the kind found in the tin mines +of Cornwall. These Indians went off in canoes, +the sails of which were made of the seal-skin. +</p> +<p> +The ships sailed on the 3d of February, and +came to an anchor in York Road on the same +day. The next morning Captain Wallis, with +<span class='pagenum'>62</span>a party, went on shore near Batchelor’s River, +and saw many Indian huts, and several dogs, +which ran away the moment they were noticed: +they likewise saw ostriches, and collected various +kinds of fish and vegetables. There is a +cataract near this river, the noise of which is +tremendous, as it falls more than 400 yards, +partly ever a very steep descent, and partly in +a perpendicular line. +</p> +<p> +They sailed on the 14th, and came to anchor +again the same day in York Road, after having +lost ground by the contrary winds. The next +morning they were driven with such violence by +the current, as to be in momentary expectation +of being dashed against the rocks, from which +they were frequently not half the length of the +ship; but they were providentially preserved, +and came to an anchor in <span class="small-caps">Butler’s Bay</span>, which +was so called from the name of one of the +mates, who discovered it. They kept this station +till the 20th, when they encountered a most +violent storm, attended with hail and rain, which +increased till the evening, the sea breaking over +the forecastle upon the quarter-deck; yet, as +the cables did not part, they were again wonderfully +preserved from destruction. They remained +here eight days, taking in wood and +water, and repairing the little damage the ship +had sustained in the storm. They catched fish +of various kinds, among which were muscles +near six inches in length; and procured plenty +<span class='pagenum'>63</span>of vegetables. The mountains in this neighbourhood +had the most rugged and desolate appearance; +but their height could not be ascertained, +as their heads were lost in the clouds; +and some of them, on the southern shore, were +so exceedingly desolate, as not to produce even +a single blade of grass; while the vallies were +equally barren, and almost covered with snow. +</p> +<p> +On the 1st of March they sailed again, and +anchored on the same day in a bay which they +called <span class="small-caps">Lion’s Cove</span>, from whence they sailed +on Monday; and on the five following days encountered +such terrible weather, that they had +no prospect before them but that of immediate +destruction: and the crew on board the Dolphin +were so prepossessed that the Swallow could not +ride out the storm, that they imagined they saw +some of her hands coming over the rocks towards +them. +</p> +<p> +The storm at length subsided; but the weather +being intensely cold, each of the men was +furnished with a thick jacket, made of the +woollen stuff called Fearnought. During a week +which they remained at this place, they were at +two-thirds allowance, brandy excepted. +</p> +<p> +On the 15th both ships were safely anchored in +a place called <span class="small-caps">Swallow Harbour</span>, from whence +they sailed the next morning; and on the following +day the Swallow, being driven among +breakers, made signals of distress; but she was +happily relieved by a breeze from the shore. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>64</span>This day the waves ran high, and there was so +thick a fog, that they narrowly escaped shipwreck +among a number of small islands; but the weather +clearing up a little in the afternoon, they +came safely to an anchor in a bay under Cape +Upright. +</p> +<p> +On the 19th two canoes, having on board +several Indians, came a-longside the Dolphin, +who had with them a quantity of seal’s flesh, +blubber, and penguins, which they ate without +any kind of dressing. A seaman having catched +a fish bigger than a herring, gave it to one of +them, who killed it by a bite near the gills, and +instantly devoured it. These people would not +drink any liquor but water, but they eagerly ate +provisions of any kind, boiled, roasted, raw, +salt, or fresh. Though the weather was very +cold, they had no covering but a seal-skin, and +even that they did not wear when they were +rowing. It was remarked that they had all sore +eyes, probably occasioned by the smoke of their +fires, and they lived in such a nasty way that +they smelt as rank as a fox. They had a kind +of javelin, pointed with bone, which they used +in striking fish. The Captain presented them +with a few baubles, with which they departed +well satisfied. +</p> +<p> +Twenty-two of the sailors staying one night +on an island, thirty of the natives hurried to +their boat, and began to make free with its contents; +but the sailors had just time to hinder +<span class='pagenum'>65</span>their depredations, which enraging them, they +ran to their canoes, and armed themselves with +poles and javelins; but the sailors giving them +some small presents, peace and harmony were +soon restored. +</p> +<p> +The 30th of the month proving a fine day, +they employed themselves in drying the sails +of the ships, which were damaged by having +been long wet. Several Indians went on board +the next day, and proved to be the people +which the boat’s crew had seen on shore. +</p> +<p> +On the 1st of April some of the natives +brought several of the birds called Race-horses, +which they sold to the sailors. The next day +eight Indians brought six of their children on +board, whom the Captain gratified with bracelets +and necklaces. These people were exceedingly +tender in the treatment of their children; +and a circumstance happened which proves that +they are not less delicate in other respects.⁠—A +boat was ordered on shore to get wood and water; +at this time some of the Indians were on +board, and others in their canoes a-longside +the ship: the latter eyed the boat attentively; +and, on her putting off, called aloud to their +companions, who, without speaking, instantly +handed down the children, and jumped into +the canoes, which were hurried after the boat, +while the Indians cried out in a most distressful +tone. When the ship’s boat was near land, +some women were seen among the rocks, to +<span class='pagenum'>66</span>whom the Indians called out aloud, and they +all ran away; but the boat’s crew having remarked +their jealous fears, lay on their oars, +to convince them that no injury was intended. +The Indians landed, drew their canoes on shore, +and hastily followed the objects of their affection. +</p> +<p> +On the 5th, at the request of the Surgeon, +orders were given that no more muscles, of +which they had hitherto collected plenty, should +be brought on board, as the crew began to be +troubled with fluxes. On the 10th the two ships +sailed in company; and on the 11th they lost +sight of each other, and did not meet again +during the whole voyage. This day the Dolphin +cleared the Streight of Magellan, in which +she had laboured with innumerable difficulties, +and escaped most imminent dangers, in a passage +of almost four months, viz. from December +the 17th, 1766, to the 11th of April, 1767. +</p> +<p> +Captain Wallis now proceeds to a description +of the places in which the ships anchored, during +their passage through the Streight; but as +a minute recital of bearings, distances, and +soundings, would be unintelligible to most of +our readers, and possibly disgusting to them all, +we shall omit these particulars; extracting only +such anecdotes as may furnish real improvement +or entertainment. +</p> +<p> +In the year 1581 the Spaniards built a town, +which they named Phillipville, and left in it a +<span class='pagenum'>67</span>colony of four hundred persons. These were +all starved to death except twenty-four, all of +whom but one proceeded in search of the river +Plata, and most probably perished, as no tidings +were ever heard of them: the remaining +man, whose name was Hernando, was taken on +board by Sir William Cavendish, in the year +1587, and brought to England; and the place +was called Port Famine, from the melancholy +fate of these unfortunate men. Wood and water +abounds at this place; geese, ducks, teal, +&c. are in great abundance, and there is no +want of fish; so that the face of things must be +greatly changed since the Spaniards died there +of hunger. +</p> +<p> +Cape Holland Bay, where fish are catched in +great plenty; and the adjacent country produces +plenty of cranberries and wild celery, but +there are no birds. At Cape Gallant Bay there +is wood, water, vegetables, and fish; as there +is also at Elizabeth’s Bay, and York Road. +Butler’s Bay abounds with rock-fish, muscles, +wild-fowls, &c. Lion Cove and Goodluck Bay +produce scarce any thing but wood and water. +Muscles and rock-fish are found at Swallow +Harbour, the mountains round which are desolate +beyond description. Upright Bay produces +excellent water, and some wild-fowl and fish. +</p> +<p> +On Sunday the 12th of April they held a +westward course, during which a number of +sheerwaters, pintadoes, gannets, and other birds, +<span class='pagenum'>68</span>flew about the ship; the upper works of which +being open, and the cloaths and bedding constantly +wet, the sailors in a few days were attacked +with colds and fevers. The 27th of this +month proving a fine day, the sick were brought +on deck, and nourished with salop, and portable +soup, in which wheat was boiled. The violent +gales soon returned, so that the beds were +again wet through, and it was feared that the +ship would lose her masts: they therefore began +to think of altering their course, in hope of +better weather; and the rather, as the number +of sick encreased so fast, that there was danger +of soon wanting hands to navigate the vessel. +</p> +<p> +Nothing material happened from this time +till the 14th of May, when something appeared +to the eastward, which looked like high land, +towards which a flock of brown birds were observed +to fly: they therefore steered all night +for this supposed land; but at day-break could +see no signs of it. As the weather now mended, +the people recovered very fast; and the carpenters +were busied in caulking the upper-works +of the ship, and repairing the boats. On +the 21st they saw a number of flying-fish, and +on the day following tropic birds, bonettas, +and dolphins. About this time those who had +recovered from colds were attacked with the +scurvy; on which some sweet-wort was extracted +from malt for their use, and they were supplied +with pickled cabbage, and wine instead of +<span class='pagenum'>69</span>brandy. Two grampuses were seen on the 26th, +and on the day following variety of birds, one +of which was taken for a land-bird, and resembled +a swallow. Every method of cleanliness, +and change of food, was now taken to prevent +the scurvy, which began to encrease very fast. +</p> +<p> +On the first of June they saw several men of +war birds, and the next day observed some gannets; +and the weather being at this time very +various, they conceived hopes that they drew +near the land. On the 4th a turtle swam close +by the ship; and the next day a great variety of +birds were seen. +</p> +<p> +The long wished-for relief was now fast approaching; +for on Saturday the 6th the man at +the mast-head cried, “Land in the west-north-west.” +This proved to be a low island, distant +five or six leagues, and was soon seen from the +deck, to the great joy of every one on board. +When they came within five miles of this island, +they discovered another to the west-north-west. +Two boats were sent to the first discovered +island, under the command of the second Lieutenant, +the crews being well provided with arms. +When the boats came near the island, two canoes +were observed to put off to the other island. +The crews having landed, gathered some cocoa-nuts, +and collected a quantity of scurvy-grass, +with which they returned to the ship, bringing +with them some fish-hooks which the islanders +had formed of oyster-shells. In this excursion +<span class='pagenum'>70</span>they saw three huts, supported on posts, and +open all round, but thatched with cocoa-nut +and palm leaves, ingeniously wrought together. +As no anchorage was to be found, and +the whole island was encompassed with rocks +and breakers, the Captain resolved to steer for +the other island, giving the name of <span class="small-caps">Whitsun +Island</span> to this, because it was discovered on the +eve of Whitsunday. +</p> +<p> +Having approached the other island, about +50 of the natives, armed with pikes, and some +having fire-brands in their hands, were observed +running on the coast. Two boats were sent +out, manned and armed, and the Lieutenant +was instructed to steer for that part of the shore +where the people had been seen; to avoid offending +them, and to try to procure water and +fruit in exchange for such commodities as he +took with them. When the boat came near the +shore, the natives put themselves in a position +as if they would defend it with their pikes; but +the crew making signs of friendship, and exposing +their trinkets, some of the Indians walked +into the water; to whom it was hinted, that +some cocoa-nuts and water would be acceptable; +which was no sooner done, than they fetched +a small quantity of each, which they ventured +to bring to the boats, and received some nails +and other trifles in exchange. While they were +dealing, one of the Indians stole a silk handkerchief +<span class='pagenum'>71</span>with its contents, but the thief could by +no means be discovered. +</p> +<p> +The next morning the boats were again dispatched, +with orders to land, if they could do +it without offence to the natives. As they approached +the shore, they observed seven large +canoes, each with two masts, laying ready for +the Indians to embark in them: these having +made signs to the crew to proceed farther, and +this being done, the Indians embarked, and +sailed westward, being joined by two canoes at +another part of the island. These canoes, two +of which were lashed together, appeared to be +30 feet in length, four in breadth, and three in +depth. The people had long black hair hanging +over their shoulders, were of a dark complexion, +and of the middle size. They were +dressed in a kind of matting made fast round +the middle; and it was remarked, that the women +were beautiful, and the men justly proportioned. +</p> +<p> +The Lieutenant being again sent on shore +the Captain commanded him to take possession +of the island in the king’s name, and to call it +<span class="small-caps">Queen Charlotte’s Island</span>. The boats returned +loaded with cocoa-nuts and scurvy-grass, +after having found two wells of excellent water. +Provisions for a week were now allotted for a +mate and twenty men, who were left on shore to +fill water; the sick were landed for the benefit +of the air; and a number of hands were appointed +<span class='pagenum'>72</span>to climb the cocoa-trees, and gather the +nuts. +</p> +<p> +On the 10th the water was brought on board +the ship, but the cocoa-nuts, and vegetables +which the cutter was bringing off, were lost by +the rolling of the waves, which almost filled +her with water. On this island were found several +tools, resembling adzes, awls and chissels, +which were formed of shells and stones. The +dead bodies were not buried, but left to decay +above ground, under a kind of canopy. +</p> +<p> +The ship sailed this day, after taking possession +of the islands for the king; in testimony of +which they left a flag flying, and carved his +majesty’s name on a piece of wood, and on the +bark of several trees. For the use of the natives +they left shillings, sixpences, halfpence, +bottles, nails, hatchets, and other things. It +should be remarked that, on this island, they +found the very people who had fled from Queen +Charlotte’s Island, with several others, in the +whole near one hundred. It lies in 19 degrees +20 minutes south latitude, and 138 degrees 30 +minutes west longitude; and received the name +of <span class="small-caps">Egmont Island</span>. +</p> +<p> +On the 11th they observed about sixteen persons +on an island which was called <span class="small-caps">Gloucester +Island</span>; but, as it was surrounded with rocks +and breakers, they did not attempt to land. +This day they likewise discovered another, which +was called <span class="small-caps">Cumberland Island</span>; and, on the +<span class='pagenum'>73</span>day following, a third, which received the name +of <span class="small-caps">Prince William Henry’s Island</span>. +</p> +<p> +On the 17th they again discovered land, and +at ten at night saw a light, which convinced +them that it was inhabited; and remarked, that +there was plenty of cocoa-trees, a certain indication +that there was no want of water. +</p> +<p> +The day following an officer was sent to the +shore, with instructions to exchange some toys +for such things as the island produced. He saw +a great number of the people, but could find +no place in which the ship might anchor. Some +of the Indians, who had white sticks in their +hands, appeared to have an authority over the +rest. While the Lieutenant was trafficking with +them, an Indian diving into the water seized +the grappling of the boat, while his companions +on the shore laid hold of the rope by +which she was fastened, and attempted to draw +her into the surf: but their endeavours were +frustrated by the firing of a musket, on which +all parties let go their hold. These Indians +were dressed in a kind of cloth, a piece of which +was brought to the ship. +</p> +<p> +From the number of the people seen, and +their having some large double canoes on the +shore, it was thought that there were larger +islands at no great distance: the Captain, therefore, +having named this place <span class="small-caps">Osnaburgh +Island</span>, made sail, and having soon discovered +<span class='pagenum'>74</span>high land, came to an anchor, because the weather +was very foggy. +</p> +<p> +Early the next morning they saw land, distant +4 or 5 leagues; but after having sailed towards +it some time, thought it prudent again +to anchor, on account of the thickness of the +fog: but it no sooner cleared away, than they +found the ship encompassed by hundreds of canoes, +in which were many hundreds of people. +Having approached the ship, they beheld it +with wonder, and talked with great earnestness. +Some baubles were now shewn them, and signs +were made for them to come on board, on +which they rowed the canoes towards each other, +and a general consultation took place; at the +conclusion of which they all surrounded the +ship with an appearance of friendship, and one +of them delivered an oration, at the conclusion +of which he threw into the sea the branch of a +plantain-tree which he had held in his hand. +This being done, a young Indian, of more apparent +courage than the rest, ventured on board +the ship. The Captain would have given him +some baubles, but he refused the acceptance of +them till those in the canoes came a-longside, +and, having held a consultation, threw on board +several branches of the plantain-tree. Others +now ventured on board; but it was remarked, +that they all got into the ship at some improper +part, not one of them, even by accident, finding +the right place of ascent. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>75</span>A goat belonging to the ship having ran his +horns against the back of one of the Indians, +he looked round with surprize, and seeing the +animal ready to renew the attack, he sprang +over the ship’s side, and was instantly followed +by all his countrymen. Their terror, however, +soon subsided, and they returned to the ship; +and the sheep, hogs and poultry being shewn +them, they intimated that they possessed the two +latter species. The Captain now gave them +nails and other trifles, and made signs that he +wanted hogs, fowls and fruit; but they could +not comprehend him. They were detected in +several attempts to take away any thing they +could lay hold of; but one of them, at length, +jumped overboard with a laced hat snatched +from one of the officers. +</p> +<p> +The inner parts of the island abound in hills +cloathed with timber trees, above them are +high peaks, from which large rivers descend to +the sea. The houses, when seen at a distance, +resemble a barn, having no shelter but a roof: +the land towards the sea is level, and produces +the cocoa-nut, with variety of other fruits; and +the face of the whole country is picturesque +beyond description. +</p> +<p> +They now sailed along the shore, while the +canoes, which could not keep pace with them, +made towards the land. In the afternoon the +ship brought to, and the boats being sent to +sound a bay that promised good anchorage, the +<span class='pagenum'>76</span>Indian canoes flocked round them. The Captain, +apprehensive that their designs were hostile, +made a signal for the boats to return to the +ship, and fired a gun over the heads of the Indians. +Though they were frightened at the +report, they attempted to prevent the return of +the cutter, but she easily out-sailed them. This +being observed by some canoes in a different station, +they intercepted her, and wounded some +of her people with stones, which occasioned the +firing a musket, and some shot were lodged +in the shoulder of the man who began the attack; +which the Indians observing, they all +made off with the utmost precipitation. +</p> +<p> +The boats having reached the ship, preparations +were made for sailing; but a large canoe +being observed to make towards her at a great +rate, it was resolved to wait the event of her +arrival; on which an Indian, making a speech, +threw a plantain-branch on board, and the Captain +returned the compliment of peace, by giving +them a branch, which had been left on +board by the other Indians: some toys being +likewise given them, they departed with much +seeming satisfaction. +</p> +<p> +They now sailed; and the next morning were +off a peak of land which was almost covered +with the natives and their houses. On the 21st +the ship came to an anchor, and several canoes +came a-longside of her, bringing a large quantity +of fruit, with fowls and hogs, for which +<span class='pagenum'>77</span>they received nails and toys in exchange. The +boats having been sent to sound along the coast, +were followed by large double canoes, three of +which ran at the cutter, staved in her quarter, +and otherwise damaged her; the Indians, at +the same time, armed with clubs, endeavouring +to board her. The crew now fired, and wounding +one man dangerously, and killing another, +they both fell into the sea, whither their companions +dived after them, and got them into +the canoe. They now tried if they could stand +or sit; but as the one was quite dead, they laid +him at the bottom of the canoe; and the wounded +man was supported in a sitting posture. The +ships boats now kept on their way, while some +of the canoes went ashore, and others returned +to the ship to renew their merchandize. +</p> +<p> +While the boats continued out in search of +soundings, the natives swam off to them with +water and fruit. The women were particularly +urgent for the sailors to land, and, pulling off +all their cloaths, gave hints, of the most indelicate +nature, how acceptable their company +would be. +</p> +<p> +The boats being sent on shore with some +small casks to get water, the Indians filled two +of them, and kept all the rest for their trouble. +When the boats came off, the shore was crouded +with thousands of men, women, and children. +During this time several canoes remained a-longside +the ship; but the Captain would not +<span class='pagenum'>78</span>permit a single Indian to go on board, as there +was no guarding against their artful disposition. +</p> +<p> +On the 22d the natives brought hogs, poultry, +and fruit to the ship, which they bartered +for knives and other things; so that the whole +crew was supplied with meat for two days, by +means of this traffick. The boats having been +this day sent for water, every inducement was +used by the inhabitants to persuade them to +land: and the behaviour of the women was still +more lascivious than before. Having procured +a small quantity of water, the boats put off; +on which the women shouted aloud, pelted them +with apples and bananas, and shewed every +mark of contempt and detestation. +</p> +<p> +The ship made sail the day following, with +intention to anchor off the watering-place; but +the man at the mast-head discovering a bay a +few miles to the leeward, they immediately stood +for it. The boats, which were a-head, making +a signal for anchorage, they prepared to bring +to; but when the ship had almost reached the +boats, she suddenly struck, and her head remained +immoveably fixed on a coral rock; in +which situation she remained near an hour, when +she was happily relieved by a breeze from the +shore. During the whole time that she was in +danger of being wrecked, she was encompassed +by hundreds of Indians in their canoes; but +not one of them attempted to board her. The +<span class='pagenum'>79</span>ship was now piloted round a reef, into an harbour, +where she moored. +</p> +<p> +The Master was then sent to sound the bay, +and found safe anchorage in every part of it. +In the mean time some small canoes brought +provisions on board; but as the shore was crouded +with large canoes, filled with men, the Captain +loaded and primed his guns, supplied his +boats with musquetoons, and kept a number of +the men constantly under arms. +</p> +<p> +On the 24th the ship sailed up the harbour, +and was followed by many canoes, bringing +provisions, which were exchanged for nails, +knives, &c. In the evening a number of very +large canoes advanced, laden with stones; on +which the Captain ordered the strictest watch to +be kept. At length some canoes came off, with +a number of women on board, who, being +brought almost under the ship, began to practise +those arts of indelicacy already mentioned. +During this singular exhibition the large canoes +came close round the ship; some of the Indians +playing on a kind of flute, others singing, and +the rest blowing a sort of shells. Soon after a +large canoe advanced, in which was an awning, +on the top of which sat one of the natives, +holding some yellow and red feathers in his +hand. The Captain having consented to his +coming a-longside, he delivered the feathers; +and while a present was preparing for him, he +put back from the ship, and threw the branch +<span class='pagenum'>80</span>of a cocoa-tree in the air. This was, doubtless, +the signal for an onset; for there was an instant +shout from all the canoes, which, approaching +the ship, threw vollies of stones into every part +of her. On this two guns, loaded with small +shot, were fired, and the people on guard discharged +their muskets. The number of Indians +now round the ship were full two thousand; and +though they were at first disconcerted, they soon +recovered their spirits, and renewed the attack. +Thousands of the Indians were now observed on +shore, embarking as fast as the canoes could +bring them off: orders were therefore given for +firing the cannon, some of which were brought +to bear upon the shore. This firing put a stop +to all hostilities, on the part of the Indians, for +a small time: but the scattered canoes soon got +together again, and, having hoisted white streamers, +advanced, and threw stones of two pounds +weight from slings; by which a number of the +seamen were wounded. At this time several +canoes approached the bow of the ship, from +whence no shot had been yet discharged. In one +of these was an Indian, who appeared to have +an authority over the rest: a gun was therefore +levelled at his canoe, the shot of which split it +in two pieces. This put an end to the contest; +the canoes rowed off with the utmost speed, and +the people on shore ran and concealed themselves +behind the hills. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>81</span>The Captain now sailed for his intended anchoring-place, +and moored the ship within a +small distance of a fine river. The next morning +some persons, who had been sent to survey +the shore, returned with an account that the river +produced fresh water, and that there was +not a single canoe to be seen. +</p> +<p> +This day a Lieutenant was dispatched, with +all the boats manned and armed, and a number +of marines, with orders to land under cover of +the ship and boats; which being effected, he +turned a piece of turf, and having hoisted a +pendant on a staff, he took possession of the +place, for his Sovereign, by the name of <span class="small-caps">King +George the Third’s Island</span>. He then mixed +some rum with the river water, and every person +present drank the King’s health. At this +time the Lieutenant observed two old men on +the opposite side of the river, who seemed much +terrified, and assumed a posture of supplication. +Signs were made for them to cross the river, +which one of them having done, he crawled on +his hands and knees towards the Lieutenant; +who, shewing him some stones that had been +thrown at the ship, hinted that the Indians +should receive no harm if they were not the aggressors. +Some hatchets were now produced, +to intimate that they wished to barter for provisions; +and some trifling matters were given to +the Indian, who testified his joy and gratitude +by dancing round the pendant. He then plucked +<span class='pagenum'>82</span>some branches of trees, which he laid on the +ground, and retreated; but soon returning with +several others, they advanced towards the pendant, +which happening to be shaken by the +wind, they ran back with evident signs of astonishment. +They soon recovered from their +surprize, and procuring two hogs, laid them +down at the foot of the flag-staff, and danced +round it; after which they put the hogs into a +canoe, and the old Indian rowed it to the ship: +when he came a-longside he delivered a serious +oration, in the course of which he handed up a +number of plantain-leaves, one at a time: this +being done, he rowed back, after refusing several +presents that had been offered him. +</p> +<p> +In the night a number of lights were seen on +the coast, and the noise of drums and other instruments +of music was heard. Soon after daylight +it was observed that the Indians had left +the coast, and taken away the pendant. This +day, while a party was engaged in filling the +water-casks, the old man, who had been seen the +day before, crossed the river, and brought with +him some fowls and fruit. The Captain, who was +indisposed on board the ship, employed himself +in remarking what was going forward on shore; +and, by the help of glasses, he saw many of the +Indians creeping behind the bushes towards the +watering-place, while incredible numbers were +coming through the woods, and a large party +descending a hill, all advancing to the same +<span class='pagenum'>83</span>spot; and two divisions of canoes were making +round the opposite points of the bay. The +Lieutenant, seeing his danger, got his party +on board the boats; but not before he had sent +the old Indian to prevail on the others to keep +at a proper distance, as he wanted only water:⁠—but +this had no effect; and, as soon as the +crews were in the boats, the natives possessed +themselves of the casks as lawful prize. Those +at some distance from the watering-place pushed +forward with all speed, keeping pace with the +canoes, which were rowed at an extraordinary +rate; while a great number of women and children +were seated on a hill, from whence they +could command a view of all that passed. +</p> +<p> +When the canoes came near that part of the +bay where the ship rode, they took in many +people from the shore, who were laden with +bags filled with stones. All the canoes now approached +the ship; on which the Captain gave +orders to fire on the first cluster of them that +should assemble; this had such an effect, that +they all rowed off with the utmost speed. They +then fired into several parts of the wood, on +which the Indians all fled to the hill where the +women and children were; so that several thousands +were now on that spot. The Captain being +resolved to make this action decisive, fired +towards the hill; and two balls falling near a +spot where many of these poor Indians had stationed +<span class='pagenum'>84</span>themselves, they were all terrified beyond +description, and disappeared in an instant. +</p> +<p> +When this disagreeable skirmish was ended, +the boats were hoisted out, and a strong +guard sent with the carpenters, who had +orders to destroy every canoe they could +find; and this service was performed with such +alacrity, that in a few hours a great number of +these vessels were cut in pieces, several of which +were of the largest size. Some fruit, fowls, +and hogs, were found in a few of the smallest; +but the rest were laden with stones and slings. +</p> +<p> +It was not long before a small party of Indians +advanced to the sea-shore, and sticking up +some small branches of trees, went back to the +woods: but they came again repeatedly, bringing +with them a quantity of the cloth they wear, +and some dogs and hogs with their legs tied; +all which they laid on the shore, making signs +to the sailors to take them. A boat being sent +on shore, the hogs were conveyed on board, but +the other articles left. In return for these presents, +several hatchets and nails were left on the +beach, and signs made to some of the Indians +within sight to come and take them; which +they neglected to do for some time, till the Captain +having sent for the cloth, the natives then +accepted his presents with apparent satisfaction. +</p> +<p> +On the 27th, while a party was getting water, +the old man before-mentioned appeared on the +opposite side of the river; and having harangued +<span class='pagenum'>85</span>them some time, he came over; when +the officer, pointing to the bags and stones which +had been brought down, tried to convince him +that his countrymen had injured the English, +who had acted only on the defensive. His +meaning seemed to be well understood, but the +old Indian could not admit the force of his arguments:⁠—on +the contrary, he expressed very +forcibly, by his countenance, voice, and actions, +the high sense he had of the injury offered +his unhappy friends. At length a reconciliation +took place; the old man shook hands +with, and accepted some presents from the +Lieutenant, who tried to convince him of his +good-will; hinted that the natives should not +appear but in small parties, and that while the +boats crews were on one side of the river they +should remain on the other. The old man departed +with evident signs of being content with +these terms; and in a few hours the natives began +a traffic, which proved highly advantageous +to the ship’s company. +</p> +<p> +The sick were now sent on shore, and lodged +in a tent near the watering-place, under the care +of the Surgeon. This gentleman having shot a +wild-duck, it dropped near some Indians on the +opposite side of the river, who were so terrified +that they instantly fled; but stopping within a +short space, he prevailed on one of them to +bring over the duck, which he at length complied +with, and laid it at the Surgeon’s feet, +<span class='pagenum'>86</span>while his looks expressed the fear and agitation +of his mind. At a second shot three ducks were +killed; which gave the natives such an idea of +the effects of a gun, that to this circumstance +is chiefly attributed the regularity of their behaviour +in all their transactions, while the English +remained among them. +</p> +<p> +Orders were now issued, that the gunner should +transact all matters of trade between the Indians +and the sailors, with a view to prevent pilfering +and quarrelling: the natives, indeed, would +sometimes steal a trifle, but the very sight of a +gun procured instant restitution of it. The old +Indian, having been attached to the English, was +very useful in the recovery of the stolen goods. +One day an Indian swam over the river, and +took a hatchet, on which the gunner made preparations +as if he would go in search of the +thief; but this being intimated to the old man, +he immediately went after the lost goods, which +he brought back. The gunner now demanded +that the culprit should also be produced, and +the old Indian complied, though much against +his inclination. The prisoner, who had committed +other robberies, was sent on board the +ship, whence the Captain discharged him, without +farther punishment than the terror arising +from his situation. His countrymen were transported +with joy to see him come back; and he +was conducted into the woods, amidst the applausive +shouts of his friends. This man had +<span class='pagenum'>87</span>the gratitude to bring a roasted hog and some +bread-fruit to the gunner next day, as an acknowledgment +for the lenity shewn him. +</p> +<p> +The Captain, First Lieutenant, and Purser, +were at this time very ill; so that the care of +the vessel, and the superintendence of the sick, +were committed to the Second Lieutenant, who +discharged his duty with such zeal and fidelity, +that all was order and decorum. Fruit, fowls, +and fresh pork, were procured in such plenty, +that at the end of fourteen days almost every +man had perfectly recovered his health. +</p> +<p> +On the 29th a piece of saltpetre, of the size of +a small egg, was found on shore; but whether +it had been brought from the ship, or not, could +not be learnt, after the most diligent enquiry; +but no other piece was found on the island. +</p> +<p> +On the 2d of July they began to want fruit +and fresh meat, owing to the absence of the old +Indian; but they had still a sufficient supply for +the sick. On the 3d the ship’s bottom was examined, +when its condition was nearly the same +as when she left England. This day a shark +was caught, which proved an acceptable present +to the Indians. +</p> +<p> +The old Indian, who had visited the interior +parts of the island, in quest of provisions, returned +on the 5th, and brought with him a +roasted hog as a present for the Captain, who, +in return, enriched him by putting him in possession +of a looking-glass, an iron pot, &c. His +<span class='pagenum'>88</span>return was soon followed by some of the natives +who had never yet visited the market; +these brought some hogs that were larger than +any yet purchased. +</p> +<p> +A traffick of a singular kind was now established +between the Indian girls and the sailors. +The price of a lady’s favour was a nail or two; +but as the tars could not always get at the nails, +they drew them out from several parts of the +ship; nor could a single offender be discovered +by the strictest enquiry. The damage done to +the ship could be easily repaired; but one ill +consequence arose from this traffick, which could +not have been foreseen: for on the gunner’s offering +small nails for hogs, the Indians produced +large spikes, demanding such as those. Some +of the men made use of a singular device to +gratify their passions; for, when they could +procure no more nails, they cut lead into the +shape of nails, and passed it as sterling on their +unsuspecting fair ones. When the Indians discovered +the fraud, they demanded nails for +the lead; but this just demand could not be +granted, because it would have promoted the +stealing of lead, and thereby injured the traffic +with iron. +</p> +<p> +The sailors, in consequence of their connection +with the women, became so impatient +of controul, that the Captain ordered the articles +of war to be read, to awe them into obedience; +and a Corporal of marines was severely +<span class='pagenum'>89</span>punished, for striking the master at arms. The +Captain’s health being now nearly restored, he +went in his boat to survey the island, which he +found extremely delightful, and every where +well peopled. +</p> +<p> +On the 8th the wood-cutters were entertained +in a friendly manner by some Indians, who +seemed to be of a rank above those they had +yet seen: and some of these visiting the Captain, +he laid before them a thirty-six shilling +piece, a guinea, a crown-piece, a dollar, some +shillings, new halfpence, and two large nails; +and having intimated that they might take their +choice, they eagerly seized the nails, and then +took a few halfpence; but left all the other +pieces untouched. +</p> +<p> +The Indians now refused to supply the market, +unless they could get large nails in exchange: +the Captain therefore ordered the ship +to be searched, when it was found that almost +all the hammock-nails were stolen, and great +numbers drawn from different places: on which +every man was ordered before the Captain, who +told them, that not a man should go on shore +till the thieves were discovered; but no good +consequence arose from his threats. +</p> +<p> +Three days after this, the gunner conducted +to the ship a lady of a portly figure and agreeable +face, whose age seemed to be upwards of +forty. This lady had but lately arrived in that +part of the island; and the gunner, observing +<span class='pagenum'>90</span>that she seemed to have great authority, presented +her with some toys; on which she invited +him to her house, and gave him some fine hogs. +She was afterwards taken on board at her own +desire, where her whole behaviour indicated the +woman of fine sense and superior rank. The +Captain presented her with a looking-glass and +some toys, and gave her a handsome blue mantle, +which he tied round her with ribbands. +</p> +<p> +Having intimated that she should be glad to +see the Captain on shore, he signified his intention +of visiting her on the following day. Accordingly +on Sunday the 12th, Captain Wallis +went on shore, where he was met by his fair +friend, who was attended by a numerous retinue, +some of whom she directed to carry the +Captain, and others who had been ill, over the +river, and thence to her habitation: the procession +was closed by a guard of marines and +seamen. As they advanced, great numbers of +Indians crowded to see them; but, on a slight +motion of her hand, they made ample room for +the procession to pass. +</p> +<p> +Having come near her habitation, many persons +of both sexes advanced to meet her, whom +she caused to kiss the Captain’s hand, while she +signified that they were related to her. Her +house was above 320 feet in length, and about +40 in breadth. The roof, which was covered +with the leaves of the palm-tree, was supported +by a row of pillars on each side, and another +in the middle. The highest part of the thatch +<span class='pagenum'>91</span>on the inside was about 30 feet from the ground, +and the space between the sides of the building +and the edge of the roof being 12 feet, was left +entirely open. +</p> +<p> +The Captain, Lieutenant, and Purser, being +seated, the lady helped four of her female +attendants to pull off their coats, shoes, +and stockings; which being aukwardly performed, +the girls smoothed down the skin, +and rubbed it lightly with their hands for +more than half an hour; and the gentlemen +received great benefit from the operation. The +Surgeon, being heated with walking, having +pulled off his wig, one of the Indians screamed +out; the eyes of the whole company were instantly +fixed on the miraculous sight, and they +remained some time in the most profound astonishment. +When they had recovered from their +surprize, the lady ordered several bales of cloth, +the produce of the island, to be brought out, +in which she dressed the Captain and all his attendants. +Orders had been given, that the Captain +should be carried as before; but as he chose +to walk, she took hold of his arm, and when +they came near any wet or dirty places, she lifted +him over, with as much ease as a man would +a child. She attended them to the shore, when +she took her leave; having presented the Captain +with a fine sow, big with young. +</p> +<p> +On the following day the gunner being dispatched +to this lady, with a compliment of bill-hooks, +<span class='pagenum'>92</span>hatchets, &c. found her entertaining +many hundreds of the natives, who were seated +in order round her habitation. A mess was ordered +for the gunner, who reported, that it was +of an agreeable flavour, and seemed to be a +compound of fowls and apples, shred in small +pieces, and mixed with salt-water. The lady +herself distributed the provisions, which were +served in cocoa-nut shells, and those shells +brought in trays by her servants. When the +company were all fed, the lady took her seat +somewhat above the rest, and was fed by two +female servants, one standing on each side of her. +She received the Captain’s presents with evident +signs of satisfaction. +</p> +<p> +From this period the crew was much better +supplied with refreshments, hogs and fowls being +brought to the market daily; but they could +not be purchased at the former prices, owing to +the commerce before-mentioned, between the +sailors and the Indian women: the Captain +therefore ordered, that not one woman should +be permitted to come over the river, and that +no man should leave the ship till he had first +been searched. +</p> +<p> +The gunner, who was on shore on the 14th, +met with the following affecting incident. He +saw an old woman, on the opposite side of the +river, weeping in a most lamentable manner. +When she found he regarded her distress, she +sent a youth to him, who, having made a long +<span class='pagenum'>93</span>oration, laid a branch of plantain at his feet, and +then retired, and brought over the woman and +two hogs. The youth now made a still longer +speech, after the conclusion of which this unfortunate +woman made the gunner understand, +that when the English fired on her countrymen, +her husband and three of her sons had been killed. +Her agitation of mind was such, that before +she had finished her tale, she sunk speechless +to the ground; nor were two lads, who attended +her, in a much better situation. The gunner +pitied her distress, and endeavoured to comfort +her. At length she became somewhat calmer, +offered him her hand, and directed the hogs to +be given him: in return he would have given +her much more than their value, but she would +not take the most trifling article. +</p> +<p> +On the 15th a large party, in all the boats, +rowed round part of the island, in order to take a +view of it, and purchase provisions. They returned +with a number of hogs and fowls, and some +plantains and cocoa-nuts. The island was found +to be every where very pleasant, and to abound +with various necessaries of life. Great numbers +of canoes were seen, and several not quite built. +The tools of the natives were formed of bones, +shells, and stones. Dogs and hogs were the +only four-footed beasts. The inhabitants ate all +their meat either roasted or baked, having no +vessel in which water could be boiled; nor, indeed, +did they seem to have the least idea that +<span class='pagenum'>94</span>water could be heated by fire; this will be +proved by the following circumstance. While +the lady so frequently mentioned was at breakfast +on board the ship, a person that attended +her, having observed the cock of an urn turned +to fill the tea-pot, he also turned the cock, and +the scalding water falling on his hand, he cried +out, and danced about the cabin, while the +other Indians gazed at him with terror and surprize. +</p> +<p> +On the 17th Captain Wallis received another +visit from the lady; (whom he calls his Queen) +and this day plenty of refreshments were purchased +of some Indians, whom they had never +dealt with before. The Queen repeated her +visit on the following day, and gave the Captain +two hogs: and the Master being sent to attend her +home, she clothed him in the dress of the country, +as she had done the Captain and his retinue. +On the 19th a great number of hogs and pigs, +with fowls and fruits in the greatest abundance, +were purchased and sent on board by the gunner. +The next day one of the sailors was sentenced +to run the gauntlet three times round the +deck, while the crew whipped him with nettles, +for drawing nails from the ship; but the tars +were so well disposed to spare a brother in iniquity, +that his punishment was rather nominal +than real: this gave rise to an order, that no +person should go on shore but those appointed to +procure wood and water. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>95</span>Captain Wallis’s Queen paid him another visit +on the 21st, and presented him with some +hogs. On her departure she invited the Captain +to her house, who, taking some officers with +him, attended her home. On their arrival, she +tied round their hats some wreaths of plaited +hair, and distinguished the Captain’s by the additional +ornament of a tuft of feathers of different +colours. When they returned she went +with them to the water-side, and ordered some +presents into the boat. Just before they put off +Mr. Wallis intimated, that he should finally depart +in seven days; when she made signs that he +should stay twenty: but his resolution to depart +within the first-mentioned time being repeated, +she wept incessantly for a considerable time. +</p> +<p> +By the 22d the ship was so well stored with +hogs and fowls that the deck was covered; +but, as they would eat little else than fruit, they +were killed faster than was otherwise intended. +A boar and sow of this breed were brought to +England, and given to Mr. Stephens, secretary +of the admiralty; the former of which was +living when this account was printed, but the +latter died in farrowing. +</p> +<p> +On the 24th the Captain presented his friend, +the old Indian, with cloth and other matters; +and sent a variety of things to the Queen, among +which were a cat with kitten, turkies, +geese, hens, and various kinds of garden seeds; +which compliment she returned by a present of +<span class='pagenum'>96</span>fruit and hogs. While they remained here they +sowed peas and garden seeds, and staid long +enough to see them come up, and likely to +thrive. +</p> +<p> +The Captain having sent a party on shore on +the 25th to examine the country minutely, caused +a tent to be erected to observe an eclipse of the +sun, and when it was ended, he took his telescope +to the Queen’s house to shew her the use +of it; and her surprize is not to be expressed, on +her beholding several objects which she was very +familiar with, but which were too distant to +be seen by the naked eye. On the conclusion +of this mental feast, the Captain invited the +Queen and her attendants on board the ship, +judging that no insult would be offered to the +party he had sent out, while the principle people +were in his power. The Queen’s attendants +ate heartily of an elegant dinner, and drank +water only; but the Queen would neither eat +nor drink. When the party returned from their +excursion, the Captain gave orders for landing +the Queen and her train. She made signs to +be informed, if he held his resolution as to the +time of his departure; and being answered in +the affirmative, her tears witnessed the agitation +of her mind. +</p> +<p> +The following is an account of the transactions +and observations of the party which was +sent out this day.⁠—When they first landed they +called on the old Indian, and taking him with +<span class='pagenum'>97</span>them, they walked some on each side of the +river about two miles, observing that the soil +was blackish and rich, and that on the borders +of the valley, through which the river flowed, +were many houses with gardens walled in, and +plenty of fruit, hogs, and fowls. They now +all walked on one side, as the ground rose nearly +perpendicular on the other. Channels were cut +in many places, to conduct the water from the +hills to the gardens and plantations, and the +ground being fenced off had a pleasing effect to +the eye. There was good grass, but no underwood +beneath the trees: the cocoa-nut and +plantain grew on level ground; while the bread-fruit +and apple-trees were set in rows on the sides +of the hills. +</p> +<p> +The stream now became a perfect meander, +and the crags of mountains which rose on its +borders hung over the heads of our travellers. +After walking four miles, they sat down to +breakfast under an apple-tree, when they were +alarmed by the shouts of a great number of the +natives. They would have had recourse to their +arms, but the old Indian making signs for them +to sit still, went to his countrymen, who became +at once silent, and instantly retired: but +they soon returned with variety of refreshments, +which the old Indian divided among our travellers; +and for which the Lieutenant gave the +natives some buttons, and other trifles. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>98</span>They then proceeded, and looked diligently +for metals and ores, in every place likely to +produce them; but found nothing of any consequence. +The old Indian growing weary, hinted, +that he should return, having first directed +his countrymen to clear a passage for the travellers +over a mountain. When the old man was +gone, the Indians cut branches from the trees, +and laid them in a ceremonious manner at the +feet of the seamen: they then painted themselves +red with the berries of a tree, and stained their +garments yellow with the bark of another. By +the assistance of the Indians, the most difficult +parts of the mountain were climbed; and they +again refreshed themselves on its summit, when +they saw other mountains so much above them, +that they seemed as in a valley. +</p> +<p> +Towards the sea the prospect was inexpressibly +beautiful, the sides of the hills being covered +with trees, and the vallies with grass; +while the whole country was interspersed with +villages. They saw but few houses on the +mountains above them, but as smoke was observed +in many places, it was conjectured, that +the highest parts were inhabited. Many springs +gushed from the sides of the mountains, all of +which were covered with wood on the sides, +and with fern on the summits. The soil even +on the high lands was rich, and the sugar-cane +grew without cultivation; as did likewise ginger +and turmerick. +</p> +<figure class='max100' style='width: 30em;'> +<img src="images/109.jpg" class="w100 v_align_b" alt=""> +<figcaption><i>The Queen of Otaheite taking leave of Cap<sup>n</sup>. Wallis.</i></figcaption> +</figure> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>99</span>Having a third time refreshed themselves, +they descended towards the ship, occasionally +deviating from the direct way, tempted, by the +pleasant situation of several houses, the inhabitants +of which entertained them in the most hospitable +manner. They saw parrots, parroquets, +green doves, and ducks. The Lieutenant +planted the stones of cherries, peaches and +plums, several kinds of garden-seeds, and +oranges, lemons and limes. In the afternoon +they rested on a delightful spot, where the inhabitants +dressed them two hogs and several fowls. +Here they staid till the evening, when they rewarded +the diligence of their guides, and repaired +to the ship. +</p> +<p> +On the 26th the Queen visited the Captain, +with her usual presents; and on this day they +discontinued taking in wood and water, and prepared +for sailing. A greater number of Indians +now came to the sea-shore than they had ever yet +seen; and of these, several appeared to be persons +of consequence. In the afternoon the +Queen visited captain Wallis, and sollicited him +to remain ten days longer; but being informed +that he should certainly sail on the following +day, she burst into tears. She now demanded +when he would come again, and was told in 50 +days. She remained on board till evening, +when being informed that the boat waited for +her, she wept with more violence than she had +yet done. At length this affectionate creature +<span class='pagenum'>100</span>went over the ship’s side, as did the old Indian +who had been so serviceable to the crew. This +man had signified, that his son should sail with +the Captain; but when the time of departure +came, the youth was not to be found; and it +was thought, that parental affection had got the +better of the old man’s promise. +</p> +<p> +Early the next morning two boats were sent +to fill a few casks of water; but the officer, +alarmed at finding the shore crouded with people, +was about to return. This brought the +Queen forward, who commanded the Indians +to retire to the opposite side of the river, and +then made signs for the boats to land. While +the water was filling, she ordered some presents +into the boat, and entreated to go once more to +the ship; but the officer having it in charge not +to bring off a single native, she ordered her +double canoe out, and was followed by many +others. When she had been on board, weeping +bitterly, for an hour, advantage was taken +of a breeze, and the ship got under sail. She +now tenderly embraced the Captain and Officers, +and left the ship; but the wind falling, +the canoes all put back, and once more reached +the ship, to which the Queen’s being made fast, +she advanced to the bow of the canoe, and wept +incessantly. The Captain presented her with +several articles of use and ornament, which she +received in silent sorrow. After some time a +breeze springing up, the Queen and her attendants +<span class='pagenum'>101</span>took their final leave, with many tears, +which drew corresponding tears from the eyes of +our countrymen. +</p> +<p> +The place where the ship had lain was called +<span class="small-caps">Port Royal Harbour</span>, and is situated in 17 +degrees 30 minutes south-longitude, and 150 +degrees west-latitude. +</p> +<p> +Captain Wallis now proceeds to give a more +accurate account of the inhabitants of Otaheite, +with their customs, manners, &c.⁠—The +men are from five feet seven to ten inches high, +well proportioned, alert, and of good countenances. +The women from five feet to five +and a half, handsome in general, but some of +them as beautiful as can be imagined. The +complexion of those men who are much on the +water is rather red; but the natural colour of +them all is the tawny. They are remarkably distinguished +from all the other natives of Asia, +Africa, and America, by the colours of their +hair; for that of the former is universally +black, while the people of Otaheite have the +various colours of black, brown, red and flaxen; +most of the children having the latter: when +left loose, it has a strong natural curl, but it is +usually worn tied in two bunches, one on each +side the head, or in a single bunch in the middle. +They anoint the head with the oil of the +cocoa-nut, mixed with a root of a fragrant +smell. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>102</span>It has been mentioned, that the ladies do not +consider chastity as a virtue; but the price of +their favours is always proportioned to their +charms. When a man offered a girl to the caresses +of a sailor, he shewed a stick of the size +of the nail that was to purchase her company. +</p> +<p> +Their cloaths are formed of two pieces of cloth, +not unlike coarse China paper, in one of which +a hole is made for the head to pass thro’, and this +hangs to the middle of the leg; the other piece +is wrapped round the body, and the whole forms +an elegant drapery. This cloth is composed +of the inner bark of a tree. They adorn themselves +with pearls, shells, feathers and flowers. +They mark the hinder part of the thighs and +loins of both sexes with black lines in different +forms; which is done by striking the teeth of +an instrument through the skin, and rubbing +soot mixed with oil into the holes: some few +men, who appeared to be persons of distinction, +had their legs marked; but neither boys +nor girls are marked till after they are twelve +years old. +</p> +<p> +An Indian who attended the Queen appearing +to be fond of imitating the English, was +presented with a suit of the Lieutenant’s cloaths, +which became him extremely well. As it was +shoal-water at the landing-place, the English +officers were carried on shore; and this man, +unwilling to be out of the fashion, was carried +in the same manner by the Indians. In his attempt +<span class='pagenum'>103</span>to use a knife and fork at first, his hand always +went to his mouth, while the food remained +stuck on the end of the fork. +</p> +<p> +Besides the articles already mentioned, these +people eat the flesh of dogs. Rats abound on +the island, but are not eaten. The river produces +parrot-fish, groopers, cray-fish and mullet, +and conchs and muscles are found on the +rocks: the inhabitants use nets, and hooks and +lines. +</p> +<p> +There is something singular in their way of +dressing their food: having produced a fire by +rubbing two pieces of dry wood together, they +dig a pit, which being paved with stones, they +make a fire in it. The stones being properly +heated, they rake away the ashes, and covering +the stones with green leaves of the cocoa-nut-tree, +they put their meat in plantain leaves, +and place it in the pit, covering it over with +the hot ashes, on which they lay bread-fruit and +yams enclosed in plantain leaves: these again +they cover with the embers intermixed with the +hot stones: to this succeeds a layer of cocoa-nut +leaves, and upon the whole is a covering of +earth. In this manner a small hog is dressed +whole, but a large one is cut in two; and Captain +Wallis asserts, that this method of cookery +exceeds every other he has known, the meat +being extremely tender, and full of gravy. +Their only sauces are salt-water and fruit, and +their knives are made of shells. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>104</span>They were astonished when they first saw meat +boiled in a pot; but the Captain having given +iron-pots to the Queen and some of her chiefs, +they were often used; and the old Indian fed +on boiled meat almost constantly. The only +liquor they drink is water: they occasionally +pluck and chew a bit of the sugar-cane; but +have no idea of extracting any spirit from it. +</p> +<p> +From the scars with which many of these +people were marked, it seems evident, that +they sometimes waged war with each other.⁠—That +they have skill in surgery is evident from +the following circumstance: a splinter having +got into the foot of one of the sailors, his mess-mate +tried in vain to extract it with a pen-knife: +on this one of the natives, having formed an +instrument, with his teeth, out of a shell, extracted +the splinter in an instant; and the old +Indian applying a piece of the gum of the apple-tree +to the wound, the man’s foot was quite +well in two days. +</p> +<p> +There are several sheds on the island, enclosed +within a wall, on the outside of which several +posts are fixed in the ground, on which are +rude resemblances of men, women, dogs and +hogs. The enclosed place is paved with large +stones, between which the grass grows. These +were supposed to be burial-places, from the natives +being sometimes seen to enter them with +an air of solemn sorrow.⁠—It could not be discovered +<span class='pagenum'>105</span>that these people had any kind of religious +worship among them. +</p> +<p> +They have three kinds of canoes⁠—one formed +out of a single tree, in which they go a fishing; +a second, made of planks sewed together, +and large enough to hold 20 or 30 men; in +which they sail round the island, and come laden +home with fruits; and a third sort, which +are not unlike the Venetian gondolas, and used +when they sail on parties of pleasure. In these +they make a kind of procession two or three +times in a week, with their streamers flying, attended +by the small canoes, while hundreds of +the natives accompany their motions on the +shore. On these occasions they put on their best +cloaths, and while some are under a large awning, +others sit upon it:⁠—these are clothed in red +and white; two men in red sit on the prow of +each vessel; while the rowers and steersmen are +in white. +</p> +<p> +The people of Otaheite use bows and arrows, +which last are headed with a round stone. They +have likewise bludgeons, and slings for the +throwing of stones. +</p> +<p> +The inhabitants being shewn some small turtles, +hinted that they had some which were +much larger; but not one was seen by any of +the ship’s crew. +</p> +<p> +Captain Wallis represents this island as one of +the most pleasant in the universe; being blessed +with a pure air, abounding in wood and herbage, +<span class='pagenum'>106</span>harbouring no venomous animal; and +its inhabitants being happy in a constant flow of +health. The south-east part of the island, +which produces fruit in vast abundance, is better +peopled than the spot near where the ship lay. +</p> +<p> +When captain Cook, in the Endeavour, visited +this island, he found the venereal disease +among the natives; which must have been contracted +from some of the crew under the command +of M. Bougainville; for not one of captain +Wallis’s men were infected with that disorder +for several months before and after his +arrival at Otaheite. +</p> +<p> +The Dolphin sailed from this harbour on the +27th of July 1767, and passed the Duke of +York’s Island, the coast of which abounds with +plantain-trees, cocoa-nut, bread-fruit, and apple-trees. +On the 28th they discovered land, +which was called <span class="small-caps">Sir Charles Saunder’s +Island</span>. It had a few inhabitants, who lived in +small huts; and the cocoa-nut and other trees +grew on the shore. On the 30th they again +made land, which received the name of <span class="small-caps">Lord +Howe’s Island</span>, on which smoke was seen, but +no inhabitants. Their next discovery was of +some dangerous shoals, to which captain Wallis +gave the name of the <span class="small-caps">Scilly Islands</span>. +</p> +<p> +They now steered westward till the 13th of +August, when they saw two small islands, one +of which was named <span class="small-caps">Keppel’s Isle</span>, and the +other <span class="small-caps">Boscawen’s Island</span>; on the latter of +<span class='pagenum'>107</span>which were several inhabitants; but they steered +for the former, as its appearance promised +the most convenient anchorage. By the help +of glasses they now discovered the natives on +the shore; but they did not attempt to anchor +that night, on account of some breakers at a +considerable distance from the island. +</p> +<p> +The boats being dispatched to the island, +brought on board some cocoa-nuts and other +fruit, and a couple of fowls. The officer reported, +that the inhabitants were not unlike +those of Otaheite; that some few of them ventured +into the boat, but soon jumped out and +swam back to the island. These people were +remarkable for having the first joint of their little +fingers cut off; and they were dressed in a +sort of matting. +</p> +<p> +As there was no convenient watering-place at +this island, and as the ship had received some +damages that had rendered her unfit to encounter +a rough sea, the Captain determined to sail +for Tinian, from thence to Batavia, and so to +England by the Cape of Good Hope. He +therefore passed the island, which is well inhabited, +abounds in timber, and is of a circular form. +</p> +<p> +On the 16th they again discovered land, to +which the officers gave the name of <span class="small-caps">Wallis’s +Island</span>. The coast of this island is very rocky, +and the trees grow almost to the edge of the +water. The inhabitants wore no covering but +a mat round the waist: each man had a very +<span class='pagenum'>108</span>large club, two of which were purchased by the +boat’s crew. These people attempting to steal +the cutter, by hauling her upon the rocks, a +gun was fired close to one of their faces, the +report of which so terrified them, that they +decamped with the utmost speed. When the +boats were returning to the ship, they were impeded +by the points of rocks, which being observed +by the Indians, they followed in their +canoes till they got into deep water, and then +they rowed back. +</p> +<p> +Captain Wallis remarks, as an extraordinary +circumstance, that although no sort of metal +was seen on any of the lately discovered islands, +yet the natives were no sooner possessed of a +piece of iron than they began to sharpen it, but +did not treat copper or brass in the same manner. +</p> +<p> +They now sailed to the north-west, and on +the 28th observed a number of birds flying +about the ship, one of which they catched. It +was web-footed, but in all other respects resembled +a dove. On the 3d of September they +saw land, which was thought to be two of the +Piscadore Islands; and on this day an Indian +Proa (a description of which is given in Anson’s +Voyage) made towards the ship, on which they +hoisted Spanish Colours; but she came no nearer +than within about two miles. On the 7th +and 9th they saw several birds, one of which +was taken, and judged to be a land-bird. On +the 18th they discovered the island of Saypan, +<span class='pagenum'>109</span>and soon afterwards that of Tinian, off which +they anchored on the day following. +</p> +<p> +No time was lost in sending the boats on +shore, and they returned in a few hours, with +oranges, limes, and cocoa-nuts. Tents were +erected for the sick, who were sent on shore with +all expedition. The smith’s forge, and carpenter’s +chest were also landed; and the Captain +and first Lieutenant, who both continued ill, +went on shore, with a party of men to hunt for +cattle. A young bull of great weight was soon +catched; and they found plenty of oranges, +limes, and bread-fruit. On the 21st they began +the necessary repairs of the ship. The fatigue +sustained by those who went to hunt for +cattle was so great, by going many miles thro’ +thickets, that one party was ordered to relieve +another; and the second Lieutenant with several +of the men, being sent to reside on the north +part of the island, where cattle were most plentiful, +a boat was sent daily to bring in what +they catched. In this island they procured beef, +pork, poultry, papaw-apples, and all the other +refreshments, of which an account is given in +Anson’s Voyage. +</p> +<p> +By the 15th of October the fruit and water +was carried on board, and all the sick being recovered, +preparations were made for sailing; +and on the next day they left the bay, and sailed +to the west. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>110</span>On the 21st and 22d they saw several gannets, +and other birds; and on the 23d and two following +days it blew a violent storm, the effects +of which were the more dreaded, as the ship +admitted more water than she had done at any +time during the voyage. The bad weather continued +on the 26th, when they saw several land-birds. +They had now to encounter the united +horrors of thunder, lightning, rain, darkness, +and such a violent sea, as broke even the iron +work on the gun-whale, and washed over-board +many heavy things. On the 27th they were +blest with a sight of the sun, and the day following +the weather became more temperate. In +the middle of the night one Morgan, a taylor, +was suddenly missed, and it was thought he +fell over-board in a fit of intoxication. +</p> +<p> +On the 3d of November they discovered +three islands, which were named <span class="small-caps">Sandy Isle</span>, +<span class="small-caps">Small Key</span>, and <span class="small-caps">Long Island</span>; and on the +day following they saw another, to which captain +Wallis gave the name of <span class="small-caps">New Island</span>; +all of which islands are in ten degrees odd minutes +north-latitude, and 247 degrees odd minutes +west-longitude. The ship held her course +till the 8th, on which day the log and journal-books +of the voyage were taken from the inferior +officers and foremast-men. +</p> +<p> +They now altered their course, and on the +13th saw the islands of Timoun, Aros and Pesang. +On the 16th they crossed the equinoctial +<span class='pagenum'>111</span>line, and came again into south-latitude. The +next day they saw the islands of Pulo Toté, and +Pulo Weste; soon after which they had sight +of the seven islands. A singular incident happened +in the succeeding night, which was very +tempestuous, and so dark, that they could not +see across the ship. During the full violence of +the wind, a flash of lightning afforded them +light enough to see a ship of considerable size, +which was so near, that it was with difficulty +they steered clear of her; but they could not +get information to what nation she belonged, +as the wind was too loud for them to hear each +other. This was the first ship they had seen +since they parted from the Swallow. In the +morning they saw the Island of Pulo Taya, near +which they came to an anchor in the evening; +and the next morning sailed again, and saw two +ships a-head of them, but the current was so +strong that they lost ground, and therefore they +again anchored in the evening. The next day +they lost an anchor, the cable of which was cut +away by the rocks. On the 22d they saw the +coast of Sumatra, and came to an anchor in +the road of Batavia, on the 30th of November +1767. +</p> +<p> +On the following day captain Wallis saluted +the Dutch governor with 13 guns, and the compliment +was returned from the fort with one +additional gun. Permission having been obtained +to purchase necessaries, they were soon +<span class='pagenum'>112</span>supplied with beef and vegetables. The crew +were now threatened with punishment, if any +attempt should be made to bring liquor aboard; +and no man was permitted to leave the ship, but +those who were called by duty; and even those +were not suffered to go into the town.⁠—The intemperate +use of arrack is highly pernicious to +strangers who visit Batavia. +</p> +<p> +His Majesty’s ship the Falmouth was at this +time laying in the road, but in so shattered a +condition, that it was thought she could not +hold together during the next monsoon; nor +were the few of her crew which remained alive +in any better condition than the vessel. On the +5th of December captain Wallis received a petition +from the warrant officers of the Falmouth, +setting forth, that their powder had been +thrown into the sea, by order of the Dutch, +and that the gunner was dead; that their misfortunes +had deprived the boatswain of his senses, +and that he was then a lunatic in the Dutch hospital; +that his stores were all spoiled; that the +cook had been wounded, and remained a cripple; +and that the carpenter was near death.⁠—They +therefore petitioned that the Captain +would carry them to England, or, at all adventures; +dismiss them from the ship, as there was +now nothing left for them to take charge of. +Captain Wallis was obliged to refuse their request, +however reasonable, and informed them, +that as they had taken charge of stores, they +<span class='pagenum'>113</span>must wait for orders from England. To this +they answered, that they had not received a single +order since they were left in the road of Batavia: +that they had ten years pay due, and would rather +go home sweepers, than remain in their present +wretched situation. That they were never permitted +to sleep on shore, and when sick, no person +had the humanity to visit them: that the Malays +frequently robbed them, and that they expected +destruction at the hands of those people, as +they had burnt the Siam Prize not long before +the arrival of the Dolphin. They entreated the +Captain to make their case known in England, +which he readily promised to do. +</p> +<p> +On the 5th the Captain went on shore, to buy +such stores as he thought necessary to carry the +ship home with safety. He visited the different +store-houses and arsenals; but the demands +of the Dutch were so exorbitant, that he determined +to make shift with such materials as he +had, rather than be imposed on by people who +wished to take every advantage of his necessity. +Accordingly, he sailed on the 8th of December, +without losing a single man, and having only +two on the sick list. +</p> +<p> +On the 11th the crew began to be afflicted +with colds and fluxes; and the following night +they saw the Coast of Java, on which was placed +an amazing number of lights, intended, as they +imagined, to entice the fish near the beach.⁠—They +anchored off Princes Island on the 14th, +<span class='pagenum'>114</span>and began to take in wood and water; at which +place they remained till the 20th, during which +time they purchased turtle, poultry, and other +refreshments. +</p> +<p> +While they lay here one of the seamen fell +from the main-yard into the barge, which was +a-longside the ship, and struck down two other +men, one of whom was bruised so much that +he died in four days; but the other escaped +with a broken toe: the man who fell had several +bones broken, and was otherwise shockingly +bruised. They buried three men here, and many +others were seized with fluxes, and putrid +fevers; the contagion of which last disorder +constantly attacked, in a day or two, those who +attended the sick. At this time too the ship +made above three feet water in four hours. +</p> +<p> +They struggled with these accumulated misfortunes +till the 10th of January, when the sickness +began to abate.⁠—On the 24th they encountered +a dreadful storm, which tore the sails to +pieces, broke a rudder-chain, and carried several +of the booms over-board: yet, during +this storm, they observed a number of birds and +butterflies.⁠—On the 30th they saw land, and +came to an anchor in Table Bay, at the Cape +of Good Hope, on the 4th of February. +</p> +<p> +Captain Wallis having saluted the Governor, +and the Commanders of some vessels in the harbour, +and they having fired guns of salute in +return, he lost no time in procuring fresh meat +<span class='pagenum'>115</span>and vegetables for the use of the crew. The +surgeon was sent on shore to hire lodgings for +the sick; but as the rate demanded was very +high, and as the small-pox (which many of the +seamen had not had) raged prodigiously, the +Captain obtained the Governor’s permission to +erect tents on a plain about two miles from the +town. +</p> +<p> +This being done, the sick were sent on shore; +positive orders being given that no liquor should +be brought to the tents; that no one should be +permitted to go into the town; and that extra +provisions should be procured for those who +were most reduced by sickness. The Captain +was so very ill, that, as long as the ship lay +here, he was at a country-house several miles +distant. +</p> +<p> +Every man who was able to do any kind of +work, was now employed in the necessary repairs +of the ship, which being nearly compleated +by the 10th of February, several of the men, +who had had the small-pox, were permitted to +visit the town; and those who had not had that +distemper, were allowed to take daily walks in +the country; and as they did not abuse this liberty, +it was continued to them as long as the +ship remained there. +</p> +<p> +The necessaries which could not be purchased +of the Dutch at Batavia, were bought reasonably +at this place; and fresh water was procured +by distillation, with a view to convince the +<span class='pagenum'>116</span>commanders of the Indiamen that lay here, +how easily wholesome water might be procured +at sea. This method of distillation is as follows: +56 gallons of salt water being put into +the still at five in the morning, thirty-six gallons +of fresh water was obtained by about a quarter +after ten; thirteen gallons and a half remaining +in the still. This fresh water was procured at +the expence of sixty-nine pounds of coals, and +nine pounds of wood. +</p> +<p> +On the 25th all hands were ordered on board, +when it was found that every man, except +three, was able to do duty. A number of +sheep were purchased for sea stores; and the ship +sailed on the third of March. +</p> +<p> +On the 17th they anchored in the bay of St. +Helena, and sent persons on shore to get water, +and others to gather purslain, of which there is +great plenty. The Captain going on shore, +was saluted by the guns of the fort; and requested +to make that place his residence during +his stay on the island: but their water-casks being +soon filled, and the wind serving the next +day, they then sailed for England. +</p> +<p> +On the 28th they crossed the equinoctial line, +getting once more into north-latitude. On the +24th they saw the Cape of Pico.⁠—On the 11th +of May they had sight of the Savage sloop of +war, captain Hammond, in chace of a sloop, +at which he fired several guns. On this captain +Wallis fired, and brought the vessel to, which +<span class='pagenum'>117</span>proved to be laden with brandy, tea, &c. from +Roscoe in France; she was of Liverpool, and +was commanded by Robert Christian. Captain +Wallis detained her, in order to her being sent +to England; as she was judged to be a smuggler, +pretending to be bound to Bergen, in +Norway, tho’ she was sailing to the south-west. +</p> +<p> +No material incident happened from this time +to the end of the voyage, which was happily +compleated by the Dolphin coming to an anchor +in the Downs on the 20th of May 1768. +</p> +<div class="chapter"><span class='pagenum'>118</span> +<h2 class='nobreak'> +<span class='l12'><span class="small-caps"><span class='lspc'>Captain CARTERET</span>’s</span></span><br> +<span class='font2p'><span class='lspd'>VOYAGE</span></span><br> +<span class='lspc'>ROUND THE WORLD</span>,<br> +In 1766, 1767, 1768 and 1769. +</h2></div> +<p class='two_space drop-cap'> +M<span class='toupper ip2'>r</span>. Carteret having already circumnavigated +the globe with Commodore Byron, +was appointed to the command of the +Swallow sloop, soon after his return to England; +and, on the 22d of August 1766, sailed from +Plymouth, in company with his Majesty’s ship +the Dolphin, and the Prince Frederick store-ship. +</p> +<p> +Nothing material happened till the morning +of the 9th of September, (when the ship lay in +the road of Madeira) at which time nine prime +seamen left the vessel privately, and swam on +shore naked, having only their money tied in +handkerchiefs round their bodies. While Captain +Carteret was writing to the Consul to assist +him in the recovery of these brave, but imprudent +fellows, he received a message, that +they had been found naked on the shore. A +boat was instantly dispatched to bring them on +board, where they cut a most ridiculous figure, +and seemed heartily ashamed of what they had +done: it appeared, however, that they had ran +this risk only to get a skinful of liquor (as they +said) knowing they were bound on a long voyage, +<span class='pagenum'>119</span>and it being uncertain who might live or +die. Captain Carteret endeared himself very +much to the crew by pardoning these men, +whose future services amply repaid this well-timed +lenity. +</p> +<p> +It will be needless to recite any particulars +which happened till the 11th of April, when +the Swallow parted company with the Dolphin +and Prince Frederick, as already related in the +account of Captain Wallis’s Voyage. At nine +o’clock on this day the Swallow had totally lost +sight of the Dolphin, which Captain Carteret +judged to be then clear of the mouth of the +Streights; and as the Swallow was then under +land, where she had not the advantage of any +considerable breeze, they entertained no hope +of seeing their consort during the remainder of +the voyage. +</p> +<p> +At this time all the cloth, linen, cutlery +wares and trinkets were on board the Dolphin; +a circumstance which aggravated Captain Carteret’s +distress, as he had not any thing proper +to barter with the Indians; yet he encouraged +the crew not to despair; and was happy to find +that they were in high spirits for the voyage. +</p> +<p> +A few hours after the ships parted company, +the Swallow encountered a violent storm, during +which there was so thick a fog, that they +could not see mountainous land which they +were within half a mile of. At this time the +boat was out in search of an anchoring-place; +<span class='pagenum'>120</span>and when night came on, it was so dark, that +they could not see half the length of the ship: +they therefore hoisted lights, and fired a gun +every half hour; and at length the boat reached +the ship in safety. The next morning the boat +was again sent in search of a place to anchor +in, and in the afternoon, when the Captain despaired +of her returning in time, he saw her +sounding a bay, and instantly making towards +her, came to anchor in safety. +</p> +<p> +The Captain now retired to rest, but he was +disturbed in a few minutes by the shouting of +the crew upon the deck, and the noise of those +below running to join them. His fears brought +him instantly on the deck, where he heard the +universal cry of the Dolphin! the Dolphin! +but this flattering appearance soon vanished, +and proved to be only water forced up, and +whirled in the air by a gust of wind from the +mountains. Mr. Carteret says, that as the current +sets continually into the harbour where they +lay, he has no doubt but it has another communication +with the sea to the south of Deseada. +The borders of the bay abound with muscles +and wild geese, and afford plenty of wood and +water. +</p> +<p> +They sailed from this place early in the morning +of the 15th of April, and soon afterwards, +by the sudden shifting of the wind, they encountered +so violent a storm, that they were in +danger of sinking; yet they did not dare to take +<span class='pagenum'>121</span>in any sails, for fear of running foul of some +rocky islands, which in Narborough’s Voyage +are called the Islands of Direction; nor could +they go back into the Streight, without the danger +of running foul of a lee-shore; yet, notwithstanding +their best endeavours, the ship made +hastily towards this lee-shore. Thus circumstanced, +they were compelled to stave the water-casks +on and between the decks, that she +might carry better sail; and by this expedient +they at length escaped the threatened destruction. +They now got into the open sea, after a very +providential deliverance, for, had the wind again +shifted, the ship must have been unavoidably +lost. +</p> +<p> +They now steered a northward course along +the Coast of Chili; but as the water on board +was deemed insufficient for the length of the +voyage, the Captain proposed touching at the +Island of Juan Fernandes, or Masafuero, to +take in a proper quantity. On the 18th the wind, +which had hitherto been favourable for their +sailing northward, and consequently getting into +a more temperate climate, suddenly shifted, +and continued contrary till the 18th of April, +blowing violently all the time, accompanied at +intervals with dreadful thunder, lightning, rain +and hail. +</p> +<p> +During this time they saw abundance of sea-birds, +among which were two sorts, one like +a pigeon, which the seamen called the Cape of +Good Hope Hen; and the other Mother Carey’s +<span class='pagenum'>122</span>Chickens; but the true name of these latter is +the Peterel. +</p> +<p> +From the 27th of this month till the 1st of +May they had continual storms; and on this +day a prodigious sea laid the whole ship under +water for some time, while the wind blew a hurricane, +and the rain poured down in torrents. +The wind now shifted, so that the head of the +vessel came right against a mountainous sea, +which repeatedly broke over the forecastle as +far as the main-mast, so that it was almost a +miracle that she was not sunk. +</p> +<p> +When the weather became something more +moderate, they repaired in some degree the damage +the ship had sustained during the storm; +but they had much bad weather afterwards till +the 9th of May, when they were in sight of the +Island of Masafuero: and on the 10th they saw +Juan Fernandes, and sailed round to Cumberland +Bay, on the east-side of it. +</p> +<p> +The Spaniards having fortified this island (a +circumstance till then unknown to Captain Carteret) +a number of men were seen on the shore, +and two large boats lying on the beach. A +house and four pieces of cannon were observed +near the sea side, and on the brow of a hill, at +a small distance, was a fort with Spanish colours +flying on it. Many cattle were seen on +the hills, and above 20 houses on different +parts of the island. The wind blew so strong +out of the bay, that it was impossible to get +<span class='pagenum'>123</span>very near it: they therefore sailed westward, +and were followed by one of the Spanish boats; +but she soon returned, on observing that the +wind kept them out of the harbour. On the +eastern side of the west bay they saw a kind +of guard-house, with two pieces of cannon, on +carriages, near it. They now returned towards +Cumberland Bay, when the boat again put after +them; but night coming on, they lost sight +of her. As Captain Carteret had only English +colours on board, he did not hoist any during +all this time. +</p> +<p> +Thus disappointed of the refreshments they +so very much wanted, they sailed for Masafuero, +where they anchored on the 12th, but +were unable to land, as the beach was full of +rocks, and the surf ran so violently, that the best +swimmers could not get through the breakers: +the next morning, however, the boats landed, +and filled some water-casks. +</p> +<p> +On the 15th they anchored on the east-side of +the island; but were driven from their moorings, +and kept out at sea all night. In the +morning the cutter was sent for water, and the +ship got near the shore, where she soon received +several casks, and sent the cutter back for more. +The long-boat was likewise dispatched on this +service, as well as to carry provisions to those +on shore. In the afternoon the boats being observed +running along the shore, the ship followed +and took them in, but not without their +<span class='pagenum'>124</span>sustaining so much damage by the violence of +the sea, that the carpenters were obliged to +work all night in repairing them. +</p> +<p> +On the 17th the cutter was again sent for water; +and, when she returned, the Lieutenant +reported, that the violent rains which had fallen +in the night, had brought down such a deluge +of water, that the people on shore narrowly +escaped drowning, after losing several of the +casks. Mr. Gower, the Lieutenant, having seen +many rivulets of water produced by the rain +which had fallen in the night, proposed to go +and fill the casks; but he had not been long +gone, before the weather began to wear a very +threatening appearance, and it thundered and +lightned to a degree beyond description. The +ship now kept as near the shore as possible, and as +it was grown quite dark, they were very apprehensive +that the long-boat was lost, but she happily +came a-longside just in time to prevent the +destruction of her whole crew; for she had scarce +been hoisted over the ship’s side a moment, before +such a violent squall came on, as must inevitably +have sunk her. Mr. Gower reported, that three of +the sailors having swam on shore with the casks, +just before the storm began, he was under a necessity, +however unwilling, of leaving them +behind, exposed, naked as they were, to thunder, +lightning, rain and hunger. +</p> +<p> +These men returned to the ship, on the evening +of the 19th, and gave an account how they +had passed the melancholy interval.⁠—While +<span class='pagenum'>125</span>day-light continued they hoped for an opportunity +of regaining the boat; but when the darkness +and cold of the night advanced, they began +to consider how they should abide the inclemency +of the weather; when necessity suggested +an expedient that ingenuity might have +sought in vain:⁠—they laid, alternately, each between +the two other, thus procuring at once +the partial comforts of a house and a fire. As +soon as the day broke they proceeded by the sea-shore +towards the tent: but being repeatedly +impeded by high points of land, they swam +round them, at such a distance, to avoid the +rocks, that they were scarcely in less danger from +the sharks: happily, however, they escaped +every danger, and were received at the watering-place +with a degree of pleasure that does +honour to the humanity of their brother tars; +part of whose cloths and provisions were instantly +appropriated to feed the hungry and +clothe the naked. When these men returned +on board, they were indulged with a whole +night’s rest, and the next morning were perfectly +well. The reader will no doubt be pleased +to be informed, that these were three of the +nine men who swam ashore at Madeira, for a +skinful of liquor. +</p> +<p> +This day such a quantity of fish was taken by +the boat, with hooks and lines only, as was +equal to the consumption of the whole crew. +On the 20th the ship, which had been some time +standing off and on near the shore, came again +<span class='pagenum'>126</span>to an anchor, when the long-boat being sent +out, procured, in a short time, an ample supply +of fish. During the night, and all the following +day, they had extreme bad weather; +but, as soon as it became moderately calm, three +seamen were sent on shore to kill seals, and +make oil of their fat, for the use of the lamps. +</p> +<p> +On the 22d in the morning (after a stormy +night) the boats being sent on shore, returned +with a number of pintado birds, which were obtained +from the inhabitants, who said that, when +the wind blew briskly in the night, these birds +flew into the fire in amazing numbers; so that +they catched several hundreds the preceding +night. On the 23d as much water was got off +as the weather would permit of, but several +casks were lost by the violence of the surf. +The weather now grew so bad that the Captain +was impatient to sail: he therefore gave orders +for all the people on shore to come on board. +At this time the ship drove from her moorings, +dragging the anchor after her, till she got into +deep water. They now lay to under bare poles, +waiting for the boats, while the violence of the +wind carried the water higher than the mast-head. +In the evening the long-boat with ten +of the men were taken on board; but there +yet remained the cutter, with the Lieutenant +and eighteen men. The weather becoming +more moderate about midnight, the ship stood +in for land, and at ten the next morning was +<span class='pagenum'>127</span>near the shore, but the cutter was not to be seen; +about noon however she was discovered close under +land, and in three hours time her crew got on +board. These people endeavoured to come +off in the evening, but had no sooner left the +shore than their cutter was almost filled with +water, and narrowly escaped sinking: at length +she regained the shore, where she remained all +night: in the morning it was concluded, that +the ship had perished in the storm, and the crew, +having taken proper methods to secure the +boat, proposed to wait till the summer, when +they hoped she might be able to carry them to +the Island of Juan Fernandes:⁠—but these +thoughts were now lost in the joy of their happy +deliverance. +</p> +<p> +The island of Masafuero is of a triangular +form, about 22 miles in circumference, and, +at a distance, has the appearance of a single +rock; there is good anchorage on many parts of +the coast, and the island abounds with goats. +Wood and water are plenty, but difficult to be +procured, on account of the violence of the +surf. Cod, hallibut, coal-fish, and cray-fish are +to be catched in great numbers; and seals are +so numerous, that Captain Carteret thinks, +the killing of thousands could make no apparent +difference in their numbers. The mountain +cabbage grows on the island, which likewise +abounds in birds, among which are hawks +of a very large size. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>128</span>Captain Carteret having left the Island of +Masafuero, sailed to the north, with the hope +of getting the south-east trade-wind; and, having +got more to the north than he first proposed, +he looked out for the Islands of St. Ambrose +and St. Felix, which he missed through the erroneous +printed accounts of their latitudes and +longitudes. They likewise searched for the +continent, which in the charts is called Davis’s +Land; but which Mr. Carteret gives many +reasons for supposing has no existence. +</p> +<p> +This search was continued till the 17th of +June, which is the depth of winter, when the +weather was dark and cold, with sleet, rain, +thunder and lightning. The gloom was so constant, +that they had seldom sun-shine enough to +make an observation, yet were necessitated to +carry all the sail possible, that they might not +perish with hunger before the ship should reach +some port, where they might procure a supply +of necessaries. +</p> +<p> +On the 2d of July they discovered an island, +which was well clothed with trees, and down +the side of which ran a stream of fresh water. +It appeared to be about five miles in circumference, +and was called <span class="small-caps">Pitcairn’s Island</span>, +from the name of a young gentleman who first +saw it. +</p> +<p> +On the 4th the ship admitted a great quantity +of water, and was otherwise in a very shattered +condition, from the rough seas she had encountered. +<span class='pagenum'>129</span>The crew now likewise began to be +much afflicted with the scurvy; though they +were, happily, well supplied with water, an +abundance of the rain-water being catched by +means of an awning lined with painted canvas. +</p> +<p> +On the 11th Captain Carteret gave the name +of the <span class="small-caps">Bishop of Osnaburgh’s Island</span>, to a +low piece of land discovered this day, which +was well cloathed with verdure. On the 12th +they saw two other small islands, on one of +which the boat’s crew landed, and found birds +so tame, as to be taken without the least difficulty. +The other island was about 15 miles distance; +but neither of them afforded either water +or vegetables. They were called the <span class="small-caps">Duke +of Gloucester’s Islands</span>; and Captain Carteret +supposes them to be the same land which was +seen by Quiros. +</p> +<p> +From this period till the 22d of the month +they had alternate storms and calms; and on +this day judged themselves five thousand four +hundred miles from the continent of America; +yet in all this run they had seen no signs of a +southern continent. +</p> +<p> +As the scurvy was now daily encreasing among +the seamen; and as the weather was bad, and the +ship in a crazy condition, the Captain determined +to steer such a course as might most probably +tend to the preservation of the vessel and +the crew. In consequence of this resolution he +stood to the northward, in the hope of having +<span class='pagenum'>130</span>the advantage of the trade-wind, and reaching +some island, where he might be furnished with +the necessary refreshments. +</p> +<p> +On the 25th they saw great flocks of birds, +which induced them to think that they were +near land, but they could not discover any. +On the 3d of August great numbers of sea-birds +were seen; and on this day the current +was observed to set strongly to the southward, +though it had hitherto ran in a contrary direction; +whence the Captain concluded, that the +passage between New Zealand and New Holland +opened in this latitude, which was ten degrees +eighteen minutes south, and the longitude +177 degrees 30 minutes east. +</p> +<p> +On the 10th of this month the ship sprung a +leak, in a part which they could not come at to +repair; so that their situation was truly alarming; +but two days afterwards they discovered +land, which gave fresh spirits to the almost desponding +crew. The Captain observed seven +islands, and sailed towards two of them, which +lay very near together: in the evening they +came to an anchor near the largest of them, on +which were seen two of the natives, who were +negroes, with woolly heads, and wore no kind +of clothing. +</p> +<p> +A boat being sent on shore, an account was +brought back that there was fine fresh water opposite +where the ship lay, but that it would be difficult +to procure it, as the whole country was covered +<span class='pagenum'>131</span>with thick wood quite to the sea shore. This +circumstance, added to the danger there might be +of the natives attacking them from the woods, +determined the Captain to look for a more convenient +anchoring-place.⁠—On the day following, +therefore, the cutter, with the master and a +party of seamen, was sent to the westward, to +search for a place to procure wood and water, +to seek for refreshments for the sick, and to discover +a place where the ship might be repaired. +He received orders to be strictly on his guard +against any attack from the natives, and took +with him a few trinkets that happened to be on +board, to procure their good will. The longboat +being likewise sent off, she soon returned +laden with water: she was dispatched a second +time, but the people on board the ship observing +some of the natives advancing to the landing-place, +a signal was made for her to return. +</p> +<p> +Soon after this three of the Indians sat down +on the shore, looking stedfastly at the ship for +several hours. The Lieutenant was now sent towards +them; but, when they saw the boat approaching, +they moved along the coast, where +they were soon met by three others. When +they had conferred together, the former went +on, while the latter advanced hastily towards +the boat. This being observed from the ship, +a signal was made for the boat’s crew to act +with caution. The Lieutenant now proceeded +to the shore, and offered his presents to the Indians, +<span class='pagenum'>132</span>who, regardless of his trinkets, discharged +their arrows, and immediately ran off; +though the boat’s crew received no injury, they +fired at the natives; but these, likewise, escaped +unhurt. +</p> +<p> +In a short time after this the cutter came on +board; the Master, who commanded her, having +three arrows sticking in his body. The +account he gave of his expedition was, in substance, +as follows. Being arrived at a place +about fifteen miles from the ship, he saw some +houses, but only a very few of the natives, and +landed with four of the crew well armed: the +first fears of the Indians being dispelled, they +accepted his presents with pleasure, and, in +return, gave him some fish, yams, and cocoa-nuts. +He then went to the houses; but soon +observing a number of the natives among the +trees, and several canoes coming round a point, +he hastened towards the boat; but before he +could embark, a general attack with bows and +arrows was made, as well on those in the boat, +as on those on shore. Thus situated, the crew +fired repeatedly, killing and wounding many +of the Indians: still however the latter continued +the fight, some of them running into +the water as high as the breast; and when the +boat got farther off she was pursued by the canoes, +which did not retreat till one of them +was sunk, and many of the people in the +others were killed. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>133</span>Some of the crew gave an account of this +transaction less favourable to the Master than +his own: they said, that the Indians behaved in +the most friendly manner, till he exasperated +them by cutting down a cocoa-nut tree, after +they had strongly intimated their wishes that he +would not destroy it. The instant the tree fell +they all left the spot but one man, but they +were soon observed to assemble in great numbers +among the trees; on which a Midshipman +entreated the Master to go on board; but he +slighted the advice, nor even retired till the attack +was commenced. The Master and three +of the seamen died of the wounds received from +the arrows of the Indians. +</p> +<p> +The Captain now determined to attempt the +reparation of the ship in her present situation; +and succeeded so far that the leak was greatly +reduced. On the 14th the wind setting full into +the bay, the ship was driven near the shore, +and many of the Indians were observed in the +woods, as if in expectation of her running a-ground. +</p> +<p> +On the 15th a party was sent on shore to get +water, a shot having been previously fired into +the woods, to disperse any of the natives that +might be lurking in them. The Lieutenant was +likewise dispatched in the cutter to keep the coast +clear for the waterers, by repeated firings into +the woods; yet, in spite of these precautions, +a flight of arrows was soon discharged among +<span class='pagenum'>134</span>them, by which one of the seamen was dangerously +wounded. The crew now incessantly +fired to that part of the wood from whence the arrows +came; but the Captain made a signal for the +boats to come off; and as soon as he had taken +them on board, fired several canon into the +woods; on which a great number of the natives +left their retreat, and ran away along the +shore. +</p> +<p> +In a short time another large party was +observed on a point of the bay, at whom a ball +being fired, it fell in the midst of, and dispersed +them. The people now took in water with +safety; but a constant firing was kept up, both +from the ship, and from a party on shore; and +it appeared that our countrymen had been dreadfully +successful, for repeated groans, as of +dying men, were heard from several places in +the woods. +</p> +<p> +As the Master was now dying of the wounds +he had received by the arrows; as the Captain +and Lieutenant were so ill that their recovery +was doubtful; and as there was no chance of +procuring proper refreshments at this place, +all intentions of pursuing the voyage farther to +the southward were laid aside: the Captain, +therefore, having named the place <span class="small-caps">Egmont +Island</span>, and the harbour where the ship had +lain <span class="small-caps">Swallow Bay</span>, sailed from it on the 17th +of August 1767. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>135</span>On the same day an island was discovered, +which received the name of <span class="small-caps">Portland’s +Island</span>, four miles from which they saw an +harbour, which was called <span class="small-caps">Byron’s Harbour</span>. +Having sailed three leagues from the harbour, +they had sight of the bay where the Indians had +attacked the crew of the cutter. This was +called <span class="small-caps">Bloody Bay</span>; on its borders were a +number of houses well constructed, and one +much longer than the others, which had the appearance +of a kind of hall for the transaction +of public business. In this place, which was +well built, and covered with a kind of thatch, +the Master and his party had been received by +the natives, before the wanton cutting down of +the cocoa-nut tree. A large number of arrows +were hung in bundles round the room, the floor +and sides of which were covered with matting. +In this neighbourhood were many gardens, surrounded +by stone walls, and planted with vegetables. +Three miles from this village a large +town was seen, in the front of which, towards +the sea, was an angular kind of fortification, +built of stone, and near five feet high. +</p> +<p> +About three miles from hence they saw a bay, +into which a river empties itself, which they +called <span class="small-caps">Granville’s River</span>, and it appeared to +be navigable for small vessels far up the country. +The point of this bay was called <span class="small-caps">Ferrers’s +Point</span>; and from hence the land forms a +large bay, near which is a considerable town, +<span class='pagenum'>136</span>inhabited by an incredible number of people, +who, while the ship was sailing by, came out of +their houses, holding something like a bundle +of grass in their hands, with which they appeared +to stroke each other, running in rings, +or dancing, all the while. +</p> +<p> +Sailing onwards a few miles they saw another +point, which was called <span class="small-caps">Carteret Point</span>, on +which was a large canoe, with an awning over +it; at a small distance was another town, fortified +as that before-mentioned. The inhabitants +of this place likewise advanced before their +houses, and danced as the others had done. +The dance being ended, many of them came +off in canoes towards the ship: but having got +near enough to have a good view of her, they +would advance no farther. +</p> +<p> +They soon saw another small island, which +was named <span class="small-caps">Trevanion’s Island</span>, and the +north part of it was called <span class="small-caps">Cape Trevanion</span>. +Both the main land and this island abounded +with inhabitants; and a boat being sent to sound +the passage, they no sooner observed that she +had left the ship, than several canoes advanced +to attack her. The Indians having let fly their +arrows, the boat’s crew fired, and killed one +man, and wounded another. A gun laden +with grape shot was at the same time fired from +the ship, on which all the canoes pulled hard for +the shore, except the one with the wounded man +in it, which being taken to the ship, the surgeon +<span class='pagenum'>137</span>was ordered to examine his wounds. One of +this poor fellow’s arms was broke, and a shot +had gone through his head; and the Surgeon +being of opinion that the latter wound was mortal, +he was placed in his canoe again, and with +one hand rowed towards the shore. His canoe +was formed only of the hollow trunk of a tree: +he was a young fellow, almost as black as the +negroes of Guinea; his features were good, his +hair woolly, and he went quite naked.⁠—It may +be fairly asked here, if it would not have been +an act of humanity to have attempted the cure +of this unfortunate youth, if it had been only +by a single dressing, before he had been dismissed. +</p> +<p> +As they sailed along the shore they saw plantains, +bananas, and cocoa-nut trees, and observed +great numbers of hogs and poultry: but +the Captain being yet very ill, and having not +officers sufficient to direct the men in the common +business of the ship, he had no opportunity +of establishing a friendly traffick with the +Indians; and was unable to obtain by force +those refreshments which the crew became every +hour more and more in want of. +</p> +<p> +Thus situated; unable to proceed farther to +the south, and in danger of being too late for +the monsoon, he gave immediate orders to proceed +northwards, in hope of discovering the +country, which Dampier has distinguished by +the name of <i>Nova Britannia</i>. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>138</span>To all the islands they had now left, Captain +Carteret gave the general name of <span class="small-caps">Queen +Charlotte’s Islands</span>; and, besides those already +mentioned, he saw several, which he named +as follows, viz. <span class="small-caps">Lord How’s Island</span>; <span class="small-caps">Keppel’s +Island</span>; <span class="small-caps">Lord Edgcombe’s Island</span>; <span class="small-caps">Ourry’s +Island</span>; and <span class="small-caps">Volcano Island</span>; this last being +so denominated from a smoke that issued from +its top, which is of an amazing height, and +shaped like a sugar loaf. +</p> +<p> +The canoes of the inhabitants are formed +of the trunk of a tree hollowed, are large +enough to contain ten or twelve people, and are +furnished with out-riggers, but have no sails. +</p> +<p> +The people of Egmont Island are very expert +at swimming and diving; and active and +vigorous in a high degree. Their arrows are +so sharp, and discharged with such strength, +that one of them wounded a man in the thigh, +after passing through the wash-board of the +boat. The points of these arrows are flint, and +no metal was seen among the natives. There +are good harbours on the coasts of these islands, +which likewise abound in rivers, and have some +vallies, but for the most part they are mountainous, +and covered with trees. +</p> +<p> +Captain Carteret sailed on the 18th of August, +and holding a west-north-west course, he +on the 20th discovered a small island, which +was called <span class="small-caps">Gower’s Island</span>, the people of +which did not differ in any thing material from +<span class='pagenum'>139</span>those of the islands he had lately left. Some +cocoa-nuts were here procured in exchange for +nails; and the inhabitants had intimated, that +they would furnish a farther supply the next +morning but it was then found, that the current +had carried the ship considerably to the south +during the night, and brought them within sight +of two other islands, one of which was called +<span class="small-caps">Simpson’s Island</span>, and the other <span class="small-caps">Carteret’s +Island</span>. +</p> +<p> +As both these islands were to windward of the +ship, they sailed again to Gower’s Island, which +abounds with fine trees, many of which are the +cocoa-nut. A boat being sent on shore, the Indians +attempted to seize her; and in return the +crew made prize of a canoe, in which was a +number of cocoa-nuts. The arms of the natives +were spears, bows and arrows. +</p> +<p> +As a strong current set to the southward, they +now steered a north-westerly course, because the +bad condition of the ship, and sickness of the +crew, would have rendered it impossible for them +ever to have got to sea again, if they had been +driven into any gulph or deep bay. On the +22d one of the marines fell overboard, and was +drowned, notwithstanding every effort was used +to save him. +</p> +<p> +The ship fell in with nine islands in the night +of the 24th, which Captain Carteret supposes +to be the same that were discovered by Tasman, +and are named Ohang Java: eight of +<span class='pagenum'>140</span>these are very small, but the other is more +extensive, and they are all inhabited by blacks, +whose heads are woolly, like those on the coast +of Africa. The next day they had sight of an +island covered with verdure, which was called +<span class="small-caps">Sir Charles Hardy’s Island</span>, and from the +number of fires that were seen on it, they supposed +it to be inhabited. This day they likewise +had sight of a large island, formed of three +high hills, which took the name of <span class="small-caps">Winchelsea’s +Island</span>. On the 26th they saw a large island +to the north, which Captain Carteret imagines +to have been the island of St. John, that was +discovered by Schouten. +</p> +<p> +This day they were within sight of Nova +Britannia, and the next morning the current +drove the ship into a deep bay, which, in Dampier’s +Voyages, is called St. George’s Bay. On +the 28th they gave the name of <span class="small-caps">Wallis’s Island</span> +to a small island in a bay, off which they came +to an anchor, and were now 7500 miles due +west from the main land of America. The +cutter was sent out to catch fish; but not +succeeding, she returned with a considerable +number of cocoa-nuts. +</p> +<p> +On the next day, after great fatigue, they +weighed the anchor, and sailed to a place which +they called <span class="small-caps">English Cove</span>, where they immediately +began to take in wood and water. They +now attempted to catch fish with hooks and +lines, but none of them would bite; nor were +<span class='pagenum'>141</span>they much more successful with their nets: +turtle likewise were very plentiful, yet they +could not take any of them; but at low water +they picked up some large cockles and rock +oysters. From the shore they procured cocoa-nuts, +and the cabbage of the cocoa-tree, which +is crisp and juicy; this, when eaten raw, tastes +like a chestnut; but, when boiled, has a more +agreeable flavour than the parsnip. It was found +to be excellent when boiled with portable soup +and oatmeal. They likewise gathered some +plumbs, which tasted like those of the West Indies, +which are called Jamaica plumbs; and by +this supply of vegetables, they had soon reason +to rejoice in the blessing of returning health. +</p> +<p> +This island seemed to have been lately inhabited, +as several wretched huts were seen, in +which were the remains of fires, and the shells +of fish, which did not appear to have been long +catched: they had likewise a sight of two animals, +which were supposed to be dogs. This +place produces palm-trees of various kinds; +aloes, canes, bamboos, rattans, beetle-nut, and +the nutmeg-tree; with a variety of other trees, +and many shrubs and plants of which the names +were not known. In the woods was a large +black-bird, whose note was not unlike the barking +of a dog: there were likewise parrots, rooks, +pigeons and doves: they also saw centipieds, +serpents and scorpions. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>142</span>Having taken in wood and water, and repaired +the ship in the best manner they were +able, the Captain took possession of the country, +with all the neighbouring islands, for +the King of Great Britain. This was done by +nailing on a lofty tree a piece of board faced +with lead, on which was engraved the name +of the vessel, and of the Captain, the time of +entering and leaving the harbour, and a representation +of the union flag of England. +</p> +<p> +They left this cove on the 7th of September, +and anchored on the same day almost close to a +grove of cocoa-nut trees, where they supplied +themselves with the fruit and the cabbage in +very great abundance; and called the place +<span class="small-caps">Carteret’s Harbour</span>, which being formed +by the main and two islands, one of them was +named <span class="small-caps">Leigh’s Island</span>, and the other <span class="small-caps">Cocoa-nut +Island</span>. +</p> +<p> +Nothing now remained but to attempt the +reaching Batavia while the monsoon continued +favourable: on the 9th of September, therefore, +the anchor was weighed, and when they +were about four leagues from land, the wind +and current being both against them, they steered +round the coast into a channel between two +islands, which channel was divided by another +island, to which Captain Carteret gave the name +of the <span class="small-caps">Duke of York’s Island</span>, and near +which are several smaller islands. To the south +of the largest island are three hills of singular +<span class='pagenum'>143</span>form, which were called the <span class="small-caps">Mother and +Daughters</span>, one of which was supposed to be +a volcano, from the large clouds of smoke that +were seen issuing from it. A point they called +<span class="small-caps">Cape Palliser</span>, lies to the east of these hills, +and <span class="small-caps">Cape Stephens</span> to the west; north of which +last lies an island, which took the name of the +<span class="small-caps">Isle of Man</span>. The country in general is +mountainous and woody, and was supposed to +be inhabited, from the number of fires seen on +it in the night. On the Duke of York’s Island +the houses are situated among groves of the +cocoa-nut tree, and form the most enchanting +prospect. +</p> +<p> +Having brought to for the night, they sailed +again in the morning, when some of the Indians +put off in canoes towards the ship; but the +wind being fair and blowing fresh, it was not +thought prudent to wait for them. Steering +north-west by west, they lost sight of New Britain +on the 11th, and it being now found, that +what had been taken for a bay was a streight, +it was called <span class="small-caps">St. George’s Channel</span>, and the +island on the north of it received the name of <span class="small-caps">New +Ireland</span>. In the evening they discovered a large +island, well clothed with verdure, which was denominated +<span class="small-caps">Sandwich Island</span>, off this island the +ship lay great part of the night, during which +time a perpetual noise was heard, resembling +the sound of a drum. When they had almost +cleared the Streight, the weather falling calm, +<span class='pagenum'>144</span>a number of canoes approached the ship, and, +though they could not be prevailed on to go on +board, they exchanged some little matters with +the crew, receiving nails and bits of iron, which +they preferred to every thing else that was offered +them. Though the canoes of these people +were formed out of single trees, they were between +80 and 100 feet in length. The natives +are negroes, and their hair is of the woolly +kind, but they have neither thick lips nor flat +noses. They wore shell-work on their legs and +arms, but were otherwise naked, except that +their hair and beards were powdered with white +powder, and a feather was stuck into the head +above the ear. Their arms consisted of a long +stick and a spear; and it was observed, that +they had fishing-nets and cordage. +</p> +<p> +They now sailed west, and coming in sight +of the south-west point of the island, it was +called <span class="small-caps">Cape Byron</span>; near which is an island of +considerable extent, which received the name of +<span class="small-caps">New Hanover</span>. The Streight they had now +passed was called <span class="small-caps">Byron’s Streight</span>, one of the +largest islands they had seen, <span class="small-caps">Byron’s Island</span>; +and the south west point of New Hanover, +<span class="small-caps">Queen Charlotte’s Foreland</span>. On the following +day they saw several small islands, which +received the name of the <span class="small-caps">Duke of Portland’s +Islands</span>. +</p> +<p> +When they had compleatly navigated St. +George’s Channel, the whole length of which +<span class='pagenum'>145</span>is about one hundred leagues; they sailed a +westward course, and on the 14th of September +discovered several islands. The next morning +some hundreds of the natives came off in +canoes towards the ship, and were invited on +board by every token of friendship and good +will; notwithstanding which, when they came +within reach, they threw several lances at the +seamen on the deck. A great gun and several +muskets were now fired at them, by which some +were killed or wounded; on which they rowed +towards the shore; and after they had got to a +distance, a shot was fired so as to fall beyond +them, to convince them that they were not +out of the reach of the guns. +</p> +<p> +In a short time other canoes advanced hastily +from a distant part of the island; and one of +them coming nearer than the rest, the people +in it were invited on board the ship; but instead +of complying with the invitation, they +threw in a number of darts and lances. This +assault was returned by the firing of several +muskets, whereby one of the Indians was killed; +on which his companions jumped overboard, +and swam to the other canoes, all of +which rowed to the shore. This canoe being +taken on board, was found to contain a turtle, +some other fish, and a fruit between the apple +and plumb, of a species hitherto unknown to +Europeans. These people were almost negroes, +with woolly hair, which they powdered; and +<span class='pagenum'>146</span>they went naked, except the ornaments of shells +round their arms and legs. +</p> +<p> +Captain Carteret now coasted along the islands, +to which he gave the general name of the <span class="small-caps">Admiralty +Islands</span>. He describes them as +having a most enchanting appearance, being +covered with woods, groves of cocoa-nut trees, +and the houses of the natives. The largest of +these islands is computed to be above 50 miles +in length; and he supposes that they produce +many valuable articles, particularly spices. +</p> +<p> +They discovered two small verdant islands on +the 19th, which were called <span class="small-caps">Durour’s Island</span>, +and <span class="small-caps">Matty’s Island</span>, the inhabitants of which +last ran along the coast with lights during the +night. They had sight of two other small +islands on the 24th, which were called <span class="small-caps">Stephens’s +Islands</span>, and which abounded with +beautiful trees. +</p> +<p> +On the evening of the 25th they had sight of +three islands, the natives of which came off in +canoes, and went on board the ship. They +bartered cocoa-nuts for some bits of iron, +with which metal they did not seem unacquainted, +and appeared extravagantly fond of +it. They called it <i>parram</i>, and intimated, that a +ship sometimes touched at their islands. These +people were of the copper colour, and had fine +black hair; but their beards were very small, +as they were continually plucking the hair from +their faces. Their teeth were even and white, +<span class='pagenum'>147</span>and their countenances agreeable; their activity +was such, that they ran to the mast-head +even quicker than the seamen. They ate and +drank any thing that was given them; and had +not the least degree of reserve in their behaviour. +Their dress consisted only of a piece of +fine matting round the waist.⁠—As the current +carried the ship at a great rate, the Captain had +no opportunity of landing, though the Indians +offered, that some of their people should remain +on board, as a security for the safe return of +such of the seamen as might be sent on shore. +One of the Indians, on finding that none of the +crew were to land, absolutely refused to leave +the ship, and was therefore carried to the island +of Celebes, where he died. This man was +named Joseph Freewill, and the largest of the +islands was called <span class="small-caps">Freewill Island</span>; but the +natives called it Pegan; and the names of the +other two are Onata and Onello. +</p> +<p> +On the evening of the 28th they discovered +an island from the mast-head; but they neither +visited nor gave name to it. On the 12th of +October they got sight of a small island, which +was named <span class="small-caps">Current Island</span>, from the great +strength of the southerly current; and on the +following day they discovered two more small +islands, which were called <span class="small-caps">St. Andrew’s Islands</span>. +</p> +<p> +On the 26th they had sight of land, which, +on the day following, they knew to be the +Island of Mindanao, and coasted the south-east +<span class='pagenum'>148</span>part of it, in search of a bay described in Dampier’s +Voyages; but they could not find it. A +boat being sent out, found a little nook at the +southern extremity of the island, near which +was a town and a fort. The boat being seen +from the shore, a gun was fired, and some canoes +came out after it; on which the Lieutenant +retreated towards the ship, and, when the +canoes came in sight of her, they retired in +their turn. +</p> +<p> +They now sailed eastward, and, on the 2d of +November, anchored in a bay near the shore, +whither the boats immediately went, and took +in water; they saw no signs of that part of +the island being inhabited, but a canoe being +observed to come round a point of the bay, as +if to watch their motions, the Captain hoisted +English colours, in the hope of tempting her +crew on board; but they only took a survey of +the ship, and rowed off. +</p> +<p> +In the night a loud noise was heard from the +shore, very much like the war-whoop of the +savages of America; which, inducing Captain +Carteret to think that the intentions of the +islanders were hostile, he ordered up his guns +from the hold, and made all preparations to +repress force with force. The next morning one +of the boats was sent on shore for water, while +the other was held in readiness to assist in case +of danger. As soon as the crew had landed, +many armed men advanced from the woods, +<span class='pagenum'>149</span>one of whom holding up something white, the +Captain, who had no white flag on board, sent +the Lieutenant on shore, with orders to display +a table-cloth as a signal of peace. This being +done, two Indians came down to the Lieutenant, +one of whom addressed him first in Dutch, +and then in Spanish, in which latter tongue he +was with difficulty understood. His enquiries +were, if the ship was a Dutch vessel; what +number of men and guns she carried; if she +had been to Batavia, or was bound thither; +and whether she was designed for war or trade. +</p> +<p> +These questions being answered, he said they +might go to the town, and he would introduce +them to the Governor. The Lieutenant now +desired that some armed Indians might retreat, +and that the seamen might be permitted to fill +water; which was readily granted. This being +done, the Lieutenant presented the Indian +with a silk handkerchief, and received a coarse +neckcloth in return. The boats soon returned +to the ship, with a good supply of water; and +Captain Carteret was congratulating himself on +the prospect which these amicable appearances +promised, when he observed some hundreds of +Indians, armed with targets, hangers, broadswords, +pikes, bows, arrows and muskets, range +themselves opposite the ship:⁠—they brandished +their swords, and held up their targets, in token +of defiance, at the same time discharging +their lances and arrows towards the ship. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>150</span>Captain Carteret, still resolved to avoid coming +to extremities if it were possible, and sent +the Lieutenant again on shore, to display the +table-cloth, as an ensign of peace. The natives +seeing that the boat had reached the shore, +yet that no person landed, one of them advanced, +and beckoned them to come to the +spot near where he stood; which the Lieutenant +declined doing, as he would then have been +within reach of their arrows. +</p> +<p> +The Captain having formed a resolution of +visiting the town, sailed from hence the next +morning, after having called the place <span class="small-caps">Deceitful +Bay</span>: but the wind soon blowing violently +in shore, he altered his resolution, and steered +for Batavia. +</p> +<p> +The south of Mindanao is a fine country, interspersed +with woods, lawns and plantations; +and abounds with inhabitants, as do likewise +its neighbouring islands. Captain Carteret was +of opinion, that there were Dutchmen in the +town, or persons in the Dutch interest, who, +finding the Swallow to be an English vessel, +had irritated the inhabitants against the crew. +</p> +<p> +On the 14th of November, 1767, they reached +the Streight of Macassar, situate between +the islands of Borneo and Celebes, to a point +of which latter island they gave the name of +<span class="small-caps">Hummock Point</span>; to the westward of which +a number of boats were seen fishing on the +<span class='pagenum'>151</span>shoals. They were in sight of two very small +islands on the 21st, which are well clothed with +verdure, and deemed by Captain Carteret to be +the same that are called Taba Islands in the +French charts. +</p> +<p> +On the 27th they crossed the equinoctial line, +and got into southern latitude, at which time +they found the current setting against them, and +the tornadoes became violent. The crew was +now diminishing by death, and weakened daily +by sickness; so that there were hardly hands +sufficient to navigate the vessel. On the 3d of +December they had sight of the islands called +the Little Pater-nosters, which lie something +more than two degrees south of the line; but +it was out of their power to land any where for +refreshment, as the winds and currents were +against them. Not a man on board was now +free from the scurvy and when it was imagined +that nothing could have aggravated their +distress, they were attacked by a pirate in the +middle of the night of the 10th of December. +It was so very dark that they could not see their +enemy, who attacked them with swivel guns +and small arms but they returned the salute so +warmly, that the pirate was sunk, and all her +crew perished, after having wounded two persons +on board the Swallow, and done some very +trifling damage to the ship. The pirate had +been seen in the dusk of the evening; and Captain +Carteret afterwards heard that she belonged +<span class='pagenum'>152</span>to a Freebooter, who had upwards of thirty vessels +engaged in the dangerous business of piracy. +</p> +<p> +By the 12th of this month they had lost thirteen +of the crew; and the death of thirty others +was hourly dreaded. At this time too the westerly +monsoon was set in, so that it was impossible +to reach Batavia; and as they must speedily +make some land, or inevitably perish, it +was resolved to attempt the getting to Macassar, +a Dutch settlement on the island of Celebes. +On the 13th they saw several trees floating, +and birds sitting on them: and two days +afterwards they came to an anchor, at little +more than a league from Macassar. +</p> +<p> +Late that night the Governor sent a Dutchman +on board the Swallow, who was greatly +alarmed to find that she was an English man of +war, no such vessel having ever anchored there +before; and so apprehensive of danger was the +Dutchman, that he would not venture to enter +the cabin. Very early the next day the Captain +sent a letter to the Governor, requesting +permission to buy provisions, and asking shelter +for the ship, till the proper season returned for +sailing to the westward. When the boat arrived +at the wharf, not one of her crew was permitted +to land; and on the Lieutenant’s refusing +to deliver the letter, except to the Governor +himself, the Shebander and the Fiscal (two officers +of the town) came to him, and said that +the Governor was sick, and that they came for +<span class='pagenum'>153</span>the letter by his command. Though this sickness +was believed to be mere pretence, the Lieutenant +at length delivered the letter, which they +took with them. When the boat’s crew had +waited several hours in the burning heat of the +sun, and without the least refreshment, the +Lieutenant was informed, that the Governor had +given orders to two gentlemen to wait on Captain +Carteret, with an answer to his letter. +While the boat lay off the wharf, it was observed +that there was a great hurry on shore, all +hands being engaged in fitting out such vessels +as were proper for war. +</p> +<p> +Soon after the boat came back, Mess. Le +Cerf and Douglas brought a letter, intimating, +that “the ship should instantly depart from the +port, without coming any nearer to the town; +that she should not anchor on any part of the +coast, and that the Captain should not permit +any of his people to land on any place +that was under the Governor’s jurisdiction.” +</p> +<p> +As the most forcible answer to this letter, the +Captain shewed his dying men to the gentlemen, +and again pleaded the urgent necessity of +the case. They could not but see and feel the +propriety of granting refreshments and shelter +to persons in such a situation; but still, they +said, their orders were absolute, and must be +obeyed. Provoked at this treatment, the Captain +declared he would anchor close to the town; +and if they then refused him necessaries, that +<span class='pagenum'>154</span>he would run the ship a-ground, and himself +and his crew would sell their lives as dearly as +possible. Alarmed at this declaration, they +begged the Captain to remain in his present station, +till the Governor should give further orders; +and this he promised, provided that he +had an answer before the sea breeze set in on the +day following. +</p> +<p> +Early in the morning a sloop of war, and +another vessel, with many soldiers on board, +came and anchored under the ship’s bows. The +Captain sent to speak with them, but they would +not answer a single question: and as the sea-breeze +set in at noon, he then sailed towards the +town, the other vessels weighing anchor, and +keeping even pace with him. +</p> +<p> +A vessel now approached from the town, in +which were several gentlemen, among whom +was the Mr. Douglas above-mentioned; but +none of them would go on board till the Swallow +had dropped her anchor. On their expressing +some surprize that the Swallow had sailed +from her former station, Captain Carteret told +them, that he had only acted agreeable to his declaration +to them the preceding day, in which he +was fully justified by his present situation. +These gentlemen brought with them two sheep, +some fowls, fruit, and other provisions, which +were highly acceptable. +</p> +<p> +After they had made several propositions, +which Captain Carteret could not but reject, +<span class='pagenum'>155</span>he again declared his resolution of putting his +threats in execution, and to convince them that +he was in earnest, shewed them the body of a +man who had expired within a few hours; but +who would probably have been then alive, if the +refreshments had been brought in time. They +now enquired if the ship had touched at the Spice +Islands; and being answered in the negative, it +was at length agreed, that she should sail to a +bay at a small distance, where an hospital might +be built for the sick, and where provisions were +plenty, and that if any thing farther was wanted, +it should be sent from Macassar. +</p> +<p> +This proposal was readily embraced, on the +condition that the Governor and Council should +ratify it, which they afterwards did. The Captain +now enquiring why the two vessels had anchored +under the ship’s bows, was told, that it +was only to protect her from any outrages on +the part of the natives of the country. Mr. +Carteret had nothing to treat his guests with, +but bad salt meat and rotten bread: but, during +their treaty, a very elegant dinner having +been dressed in the gentlemen’s vessel, it was +served up on board the ship; after which they +parted good friends. +</p> +<p> +An officer from the town coming on board the +next day, the Captain applied to him to procure +money for his bills on the English government. +This he promised to attempt, and went on shore +for that purpose, but, returning in the evening, +<span class='pagenum'>156</span>brought word, that there was not a person in the +town, who wanted to remit any money to Europe; +and that the Company’s chest was totally drained: +but this difficulty was at length surmounted, +by an order to the Resident at Bonthain, who +had money to remit to Europe, to take the Captain’s +bills for any thing he should want. +</p> +<p> +On the day following Mons. Le Cerf, who +was an Ensign, brought a pilot on board, to +carry the ship round to Bonthain; and Le Cerf +had the command of some soldiers, who were +on board two guard-boats that attended the +ship: and he was likewise to act as a check on +the Resident. +</p> +<p> +All things being thus settled, they sailed early +on the 20th of December, 1767, and anchored +in the road of Bonthain on the following day. +The guard-boats were now moored close to the +shore, to prevent all communication between +the ship’s boats and those of the country. Captain +Carteret having attended the Resident, to +settle the price and mode of procuring provisions, +a house was appropriated to his use, situated +near a small fort. This being fitted up +as an hospital, the sick were landed and placed +under a guard, which was commanded by M. +Le Cerf, who would not permit them to go above +thirty yards from the hospital, nor the natives +to traffic with the seamen; so that the profits +of traffic fell into the hands of the Dutch +soldiers, whose gains were immoderate; so great, +<span class='pagenum'>157</span>indeed, that some of them sold at a profit of +more than a thousand per cent. after having extorted +the provisions from the natives at what +price they pleased. Captain Carteret having remonstrated +with the Resident on the injustice of +this procedure, he spoke to the soldiers on the +subject; but this produced no good effect; and +it was known that, after this, Le Cerf’s wife +sold provisions at more than double the prime +cost, while it was suspected that he sold arrack +to the seamen. +</p> +<p> +On the 26th and 27th three vessels arrived, +one of which had troops on board, destined for +the Banda Islands; but their boats not being allowed +to go on board the ship, the Captain prevailed +on the Resident to purchase, for his use, +four casks of salt provisions. Above one hundred +sail of proas arrived at Bonthain Bay on +the 28th.⁠—These vessels, which fish round the +island, carry Dutch colours, and send the produce +of their labours to China for sale. +</p> +<p> +On the 18th of January a letter from Macassar +informed Captain Carteret, that the Dolphin, +his old consort, had arrived at Batavia. +Ten days after this the Secretary, who had been +sent with Le Cerf, had orders to return to Macassar; +on the 19th of February, Le Cerf himself +was recalled; and on the 7th of March the +largest of the guard-boats was likewise ordered +back. On the 9th the Resident received a letter +from the Governor of Macassar, enquiring +<span class='pagenum'>158</span>when Captain Carteret would sail for Batavia, +though he must know it could not be before the +eastern monsoon set in, which would not be till +May. All these were suspicious circumstances; +and toward the end of the month it was observed, +that a canoe frequently paddled round +the ship several times in the night, and retired +as soon as she was seen. +</p> +<p> +While every one was speculating on these matters, +the Captain received a letter, informing +him that a design was formed for his destruction; +that the Dutch were at the bottom of this +affair; but that the ostensible person was to be +the son of the King of Bony, who was on terms +of friendship with the Dutch, as they had often +assisted him in attempts to reduce the inhabitants +of the other parts of the island of Celebes, +and had been as often repulsed. The pretended +grounds for this proceeding were, that the English +might form connections with these unsubdued +natives of the island. +</p> +<p> +Whether the information contained in this +letter was true or false, Captain Carteret put +his ship in the best posture of defence possible. +He even suspected that the Resident was privy +to the horrid scheme; but he had afterwards +reason to be convinced to the contrary: though +it appeared that one of the Princes subject to +the King of Bony, and a minister of that monarch, +had been privately at Bonthain; but of +<span class='pagenum'>159</span>eight hundred men, who were said to be there, +no traces could be found. +</p> +<p> +On the 7th of May the Captain received, +through the hands of the Resident, a letter +from the Governor of Macassar, denying his +having any knowledge of the above-mentioned +project, and requiring that the writer of the +letter might be given up; but this requisition +was not complied with, as the Captain knew he +would be equally punished, whether his information +was or was not true. +</p> +<p> +At this place they purchased plenty of fresh +provisions at moderate prices; and, among the +rest, beef of an excellent quality. The bullocks +of this place are those that have the bunch +on the back; and it likewise abounds in buffaloes, +horses, sheep, deer, and goats. The natives +neither eat pork nor turtle; but they sold the +latter, as well as other fish, to Captain Carteret. +</p> +<p> +Having taken in wood and water, they sailed +hence on the 22d of May, and, steering along +the shore, came to an anchor the same evening, +between the islands of Celebes and Tonikaky. +They sailed again in the morning, and at night +saw the southernmost of the islands of Salombo. +On the 26th they saw the island of Luback; and +on the 29th a number of small islands called +Carimon-Java. +</p> +<p> +On the 2d of June they had sight of the +land of Java, and on the following day came +to an anchor in the road of Batavia, after having +<span class='pagenum'>160</span>with difficulty prevented the ship from sinking, +by the constant working of the pumps, +during her whole passage from Celebes. Having +fired guns of salutation, the Captain attended +the Governor, requesting permission to +repair the defects of the ship; but he was directed +to petition the Council. +</p> +<p> +The Council met on the Monday following, +when the Captain sent a letter, stating the defects +of the ship, and requesting permission to repair +her. The time from this day till the 18th of the +month was lost in altercations respecting the affair +at Bonthain Bay; the Governor and Council +insisting, that Captain Carteret should sign a +formal declaration, that he believed the report +of an intention formed at Celebes, for cutting +off the ship, was false and malicious; and the +Captain on his part resolutely persisting in his +refusal to sign any such paper. +</p> +<p> +On the 18th the Captain learnt that orders +had been given for repairing the ship at Onrust, +whither a pilot attended her, and where she +came to an anchor on the 22d of June; but as +the wharfs were pre-engaged by other ships, the +repairs did not commence till the 24th of July. +On examination, the vessel was found in +so very rotten and decayed a condition, that the +Dutch carpenter would not undertake her repair, +without shifting her whole bottom, till the +Captain had certified under his hand, that what +should be done was in consequence of his own +<span class='pagenum'>161</span>express direction. This the Dutchman thought +necessary, lest the ship should never reach England, +and the blame consequently rest with +him. +</p> +<p> +During Captain Carteret’s stay at this port, +he frequently visited M. Houting, an Admiral +in the service of the Dutch, a gentleman remarkable +for his politeness and affability, from +whom the Captain received several distinguishing +marks of kindness.⁠—The Governor of Batavia +lives with the state of a sovereign Prince. +When he goes publicly abroad he is escorted by +horse-guards, and has two black footmen who run +before his coach. When any other coach meets +that of the Governor, it is drawn on one side, +and the persons in it get out to pay their respects; +nor, if a coach is behind, must it be +driven by the Governor’s, whatever necessity +may require its greater speed. The like homage +is paid to the members of the Council, +only that the person does not quit his carriage, +but salutes them standing in it; one black man, +with a stick in his hand, runs before the coach +of a member of the Council, and thinks himself +at liberty to punish those who do not make +a proper obedience. +</p> +<p> +It was hinted to Captain Carteret, by the +landlord of the hotel where he lodged, that his +carriage must stop, if he should meet the Governor’s, +or those of the Council; but the Captain +disdaining to pay a degree of homage to +<span class='pagenum'>162</span>the servants of the States of Holland, which +is not paid to the King of Great Britain, refused +to comply; and when the black men were +mentioned, he said he knew how to defend himself, +and pointed to his pistols. In a few hours +afterwards he was told, from the Governor, +that he might act as he pleased. +</p> +<p> +Captain Carteret having engaged some English +seamen, sailed from Onrust on the 15th of +September, and came to an anchor off Princes +Island, in the Streight of Sunda, on the following +day. Having here taken in wood and water, +they sailed on the 25th with a fine gale of wind, +which held them during a passage of 700 +leagues; and on the 23d of November they +came to an anchor in Table Bay in the Cape of +Good Hope. The Captain having received +numberless civilities from the Governor and +other gentlemen of this place, sailed on the +6th of January, and on the 20th anchored off +the Island of St. Helena, from whence he again +sailed on the 24th. On the 31st of January +they anchored in a bay off the Island of Ascension, +where they found an abundance of +turtle, many of which were taken; and the +ship sailed again on the following day. +</p> +<p> +It had been accustomed to leave on this island +(which is uninhabited) a letter in a bottle, containing +an account of the name and destination +of any ship which might touch there; and with +this custom Captain Carteret complied. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>163</span>On the 20th of this month a ship which had +been seen the preceding day far to the leeward, +but had out-sailed the Swallow in the night, +tacked and stood towards her. A boat was +sent on board, in which was a young officer, +who, by many artful questions, endeavoured +to learn from Captain Carteret all the most important +particulars of his voyage; and this +piece of ill manners was aggravated, by his inventing +a tale to disguise those of his own voyage; +for the vessel he had just left was no other +than that of M. Bougainville, which was then +returning from a voyage round the world. +Captain Carteret learnt this circumstance afterwards +from the Lieutenant; for the boat’s crew, +which had brought the French officer on board, +had discovered every secret to one of the English +crew who spoke French. Happily, Captain +Carteret had kept his own secret so well, +that Monsieur Bougainville was not at all the +wiser for the time he had lost in the negotiation +of this illiberal business. The Frenchman learnt +the name of the English ship from the letter +left in the bottle at the island of Ascension. +</p> +<p> +Our adventurers had sight of the western +islands on the 7th of March 1769, and came to +an anchor at Spithead on the 20th of the same +month, without meeting with any accident +worth recording. +</p> +<p> +Considering the extreme unfitness of the +Swallow to perform such a voyage; the length +<span class='pagenum'>164</span>of time she was in doing it; the amazing dangers +she escaped; and the apparently insurmountable +difficulties she went through; to what can +we ascribe her arriving safe in England at last, +but the merciful interposition of a particular providence. +</p> +<div class="chapter"><span class='pagenum'>165</span> +<h2 class='nobreak'> +<span class='lspc'>CAPTAIN</span><br> +<span class='l15'><span class='lspe'>COOK</span>’s</span><br> +<span class='font2p'><span class='lspd'>VOYAGE</span></span><br> +<span class='lspc'>ROUND THE WORLD</span>.<br> +In 1768, 1769, 1770 and 1771. +</h2></div> +<p class='two_space drop-cap'> +M<span class='toupper ip2'>r</span>. Banks, a gentleman of considerable +fortune in Lincolnshire, was induced to +undertake this voyage from his natural curiosity, +and invincible desire of attaining knowledge. +He had already visited the banks of Newfoundland +and Labradore, and was now happy in +having an opportunity of observing the transit +of Venus in the southern part of America. +He accordingly engaged his friend Dr. Solander +to accompany him in this voyage. This +gentleman, who was born in Sweden, and educated +under the celebrated Linnæus, had, from +his extensive learning, been appointed to a place +been appointed to a place +in the British Museum, and given the greatest +satisfaction in that capacity. Mr. Banks also +took with him two draftsmen, one to delineate +views and figures; the other to paint such subjects +of natural history as might present themselves. +He had besides a secretary and four +servants. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>166</span>On the 26th of August, 1768, the Endeavour +sailed from Plymouth, and on the 2d of +September they saw land between Cape Finister +and Cape Ortegal, on the coast of Gallicia in +Spain. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander had, during +this course, an opportunity of viewing +many marine animals, hitherto unnoticed; among +these was a new species of an angular +figure, near three inches in length and one in +thickness, having a hollow quite through it, +and a brown spot at one end. Four of these +animals were joined together; but upon being +put into water they separated and swam +about. They resembled a gem in brightness, +and shone in the water with fine colours. There +was another animal of a more beautiful and +lively colour, which was not unlike an opal. +About ten leagues from Cape Finister, various +birds were observed, which had not been described +by Linnæus. +</p> +<p> +The islands of Puerto Santo and Madeira +were discovered on the 12th, and the next day +they anchored in Fonchial road. In heaving +the anchor, Mr. Weir, the Master’s mate, was +carried overboard and drowned. Mr. Banks +found at Madeira a tree, called by the natives +<i>Vigniatico</i>, the <i>Laura indicus</i> mentioned by +Linnæus. The wood of this tree can scarce +be distinguished from mahogany, which induced +this gentleman to believe, that the wood +<span class='pagenum'>167</span>called in England Madeira mahogany, was the +<i>Laura indicus</i>; as no mahogany is exported +from this island. The only article of trade in +Madeira is wine, which is made in the following +manner; the grapes are put into a square +wooden vessel, the size of which is proportioned +to the quantity; then the persons employed +take off their cloaths, get into the vessel, and +with their elbows and feet press out as much of +the juice as they can; in this manner the stalks +are then tied together, and pressed under another +square piece of wood, by a lever and a +stone, to extract the remainder of the juice. +A whole vintage is frequently spoiled by the bad +grapes being mixed with the others, which the +inhabitants obstinately refuse throwing out, as +the quantity of wine is increased by them. +</p> +<p> +There are no wheel-carriages in this island; +the only resemblance of them is a hollow board, +that may be called a sledge, and which serves to +carry their wine vessels. The soil is so rich, +and there is such a variety in the climate, between +the hills and plains, that there is no object +of luxury which grows either in India or +Europe, that might not probably be cultivated +here. Walnuts, chesnuts and apples, flourish +almost without culture upon the hills. The +pine-apple, the mango, the guava and the banana, +grow almost spontaneously in the town. +The corn is large grained and fine, and it might +be produced in great abundance; nevertheless, +<span class='pagenum'>168</span>the greatest part of what is consumed is imported. +The beef, mutton, and pork, are +likewise remarkably good, particularly the first, +which induced the Captain to take some on +board. <i>Foncho</i>, which is fennel in Portuguese, +gave name to the town of Fonchial, that lies +in latitude 20 degrees 33 minutes north, and +longitude 16 degrees 49 minutes west. It is +seated at the bottom of a bay, poorly built, +though extensive in proportion to the island; +the streets are narrow, and very badly paved. +In the churches there are great numbers of ornaments, +with pictures and images of saints; +the first are, for the most part, done by mere +daubers, and the latter are cloathed in laced +habits. A better taste prevails in some of the +convents, particularly that of the Franciscans; +here simplicity and neatness unite, and give us +a very favourable idea of these good fathers. +The infirmary is also a building that does honour +to the architect, and is the most considerable +edifice in the whole place. There are many +very high hills; Pico Ruivo is near 5100 +feet in height, perpendicularly from its base. +These hills are covered round with vines to a +certain height, above which there are great +numbers of chesnut and pine trees, and above +them various sorts of timber, so thick as to form +forests. The <i>Mirmulano</i> and <i>Paobranco</i>, which +are found amongst them, are unknown in Europe. +The latter is very beautiful, and would +<span class='pagenum'>169</span>be greatly ornamental in our gardens. The inhabitants +are computed to be between 70 and +80,000; and the revenue arising from the +customs is supposed to amount to 20 or +30,000 pound sterling per annum. Water, wine, +fruit and onions, are here in plenty; sweet-meats +are also to be had without any difficulty; +but permission must be obtained from the Governor +for poultry and fresh meat. The Endeavour +sailed from Madeira September 19. +On the 22d they saw the Islands of Salvages, +northward of the Canaries. The chief of these +islands was about 5 leagues to the south one half +west. These islands appear to lie in latitude +30 degrees 11 minutes north. On the 23d +they saw the Peak of Teneriffe, bearing west by +south. This mountain is near 15,400 feet +high. On the 29th they saw Bona Vista, one +of the Cape de Verd Islands, lying in latitude +16 degrees north, and longitude 21 degrees 48 +minutes west. From Teneriffe to Bona Vista +they observed flying fish in great numbers, +which appeared very beautiful, their sides resembling +burnished silver. Mr. Banks went out +in a boat on the 7th of October, and caught what +is called a Portuguese man of war, together with +several marine animals of the <i>Molusca</i> tribe. +They had now variable winds, with some showers +of rain; and the dampness of the air did +great injury to their iron utensils. October +<span class='pagenum'>170</span>19th Mr. Banks shot the black-toed gull, +which has not been described by Linnæus. The +dung of this bird is of a lively red. +</p> +<p> +They crossed the line with the usual ceremonies +on the 25th of October. +</p> +<p> +When the Endeavour was, on the 28th of +October, in the latitude of Ferdinand Noronha, +and in longitude 32 degrees 5 minutes west, +they looked out for the island, and the shoals +which, according to the charts, lie between it +and the main; but neither the island or the +shoals could be discovered. On the 29th, in +the evening, they saw the luminous appearance +of the sea, mentioned by navigators: it emitted +rays of light, resembling those of lightning. +Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, not being inclined +to adopt any of the opinions that had prevailed +with regard to the causes of this luminous +appearance (such as its being caused by fish +darting at its prey, by the putrefaction of fish +and other inhabitants of the sea, and even by +electricity) threw out a casting net, when they +were confirmed in their suggestion, that it was +occasioned by some luminous animal. A species +of the <i>medusa</i> was caught, which resembled +a metallic substance greatly heated, emitting +a whitish light. Some crabs were brought +up at the same time, which, though exceeding +small, gave a very glittering appearance. These +animals had hitherto escaped the observation of +all naturalists. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>171</span>Provisions beginning to fall short, it was determined +to put into Rio de Janeiro. They +saw the coast of Brazil on the 8th of November, +and spoke with the people on board a Portuguese +fishing-boat, who informed them, that +the land which they saw was to the south of +<i>Sancto Espirito</i>. Mr. Banks bought some fish +of the people in the boat, and was much surprised +to find that they refused Spanish silver, +and wanted English shillings. +</p> +<p> +Their interpreters, who were a Venetian and +Portuguese, informed them, that the crew of +the fishing vessel declared, they had not seen a +ship for eight years; this however they supposed +to be a mistake, as they spoke such imperfect +English, that it was almost impossible to +understand them. +</p> +<p> +On the 13th, in the morning, we made sail +for the harbour of Rio de Janeiro. Mr. Hicks, +the first Lieutenant, was sent before in the pinnace +to the city, to inform the Governor, we +put in there for refreshments and water, and +to obtain a pilot. The pinnace returned without +the Lieutenant, who was detained by the +Viceroy till the Captain came on shore. When +the Endeavour came to an anchor, a ten-oared +boat filled with soldiers came up, and rowed +round the ship, without any conversation taking +place. Soon after another boat came up, with +several of the Viceroy’s officers; they enquired +<span class='pagenum'>172</span>whence the Endeavour came; what her cargo +consisted of; her number of men and guns; +and her destination. These and several other +questions were justly answered without equivocation; +when they apologized for detaining the +Lieutenant, and the other steps they had taken, +pleading its being customary. +</p> +<p> +Captain Cook went on shore on the 14th, +and obtained leave to purchase provisions, on +condition of employing an inhabitant as a factor: +to this the Captain objected, but in vain, +as well as to the sending a soldier in the boat +every time she went from the shore to the ship. +Having requested, that the gentlemen on board +might remain on shore whilst they sojourned, +and that Mr. Banks might go up the country to +collect plants; these requests were peremptorily +refused. Captain Cook judging the Viceroy +imagined they were come to trade, the Captain +endeavoured to convince him of his mistake, +by acquainting him, that they were bound to +the southward, to observe the transit of Venus +over the sun; a very interesting object +to the advancement of navigation, of which +phenomenon he appeared to be totally ignorant. +An officer was appointed to attend the Captain; +this, which he was told was meant as a compliment, +he would have declined; but the Viceroy +was too polite to allow his dispensing with +the honour. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>173</span>Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were greatly +disappointed upon the Captain’s return, to find +they were not permitted to reside on shore, and go +up the country; and their chagrin was still farther +increased, to hear they were not allowed even +to leave the ship; the Viceroy having ordered, +that only the Captain, and such sailors as were +necessary to be upon duty, should be suffered to +come on shore; probably its being reported, +that these gentlemen came upon this voyage to +make discoveries and observations, and possessed +extraordinary abilities for such business, +might occasion these rigid orders. They attempted, +nevertheless, to come on shore, but +were prevented by the guard-boat; though several +of the crew, unknown to the centinel, +stole out of the cabin window at midnight, letting +themselves down by a rope into the boat, +and driving away by the tide till they were +out of hearing; they then rowed to some +unfrequented part of the shore, where they +landed, and made excursions up the country, +though not so far as they could have wished. +When the Captain went on shore to remonstrate +with the Viceroy respecting these restrictions, +the only answer that could be +obtained was, that he acted in consequence of +his Master’s orders. Thus situated, the Captain +resolved to go no more on shore, rather +than be a prisoner in his own boat, as the officer, +who complimented him with his company, waited +<span class='pagenum'>174</span>upon him both from and to the shore. It +was now resolved to draw up two memorials to +the Viceroy; one was written by the Captain, +the other by Mr. Banks: they produced answers +no way satisfactory. Captain Cook and +Mr. Banks replied, and several written remonstrances +and answers passed between them and +the Viceroy, but to no purpose. The Captain +judging it necessary, in vindication of his compliance, +to urge the Viceroy to some act of +force in the execution of his orders, he sent +Lieutenant Hicks with a packet (on the 20th) +ordering him not to allow a guard in his boat. +The officer of the guard-boat finding the Lieutenant +resolved to obey the Captain’s command, +did not oppose him by force, but accompanying +the Lieutenant on shore, went to +the Viceroy, and acquainted him with what had +passed, which induced his Excellency to refuse +opening the packet, commanding the Lieutenant +to return. He found a guard had been +put on board his boat in his absence, and insisted +upon the soldiers quitting it. The officer +now seized the boat’s crew, and conducted them +to prison, under an escorte; and the Lieutenant +was sent back to the ship under a guard. +When Mr. Hicks had acquainted the Captain +with these transactions on shore, the latter wrote +to the Viceroy, demanding his boat and men, +and inclosed the memorial, which he would not +receive from the hands of the Lieutenant. +<span class='pagenum'>175</span>The bearer of this express was a petty officer, +in order to avoid continuing the dispute about +a guard, which a commissioned officer must +have kept up. Having delivered his packet, +an answer was promised. +</p> +<p> +In the interim, in a sudden gust of wind, the +long-boat, with four pipes of rum (by the rope +breaking that was thrown her from the ship) +went a-drift windward of her, with a small skift +of Mr. Banks’s that was fastened to her. The +misfortune was still greater as the pinnace was +on shore. The yawl was manned immediately, +but did not return till next morning, when she +brought all the people on board. From them +Captain Cook learnt, that the long-boat having +filled with water, they had brought her to a +grappling, and quitted her, and falling in with +a reef of rocks on their return, they were compelled +to cut a-drift the little boat belonging to +Mr. Banks. In this situation the Captain dispatched +another letter to the Viceroy, acquainting +him with the accident, at the same time desiring +he would assist them with a boat to recover +their own: this was accompanied with a +fresh demand of the pinnace and her crew. +His Excellency at length complied with both +the request and demand; and the same day they +fortunately recovered the long-boat and skift. +In the Viceroy’s answer to the Captain’s remonstrance, +he expressed some doubts of the Endeavour +being a King’s ship, and accused the +<span class='pagenum'>176</span>crew of smuggling. Mr. Banks’s servants had, +its true, by stratagem, got on shore (the 22d) +early in the morning, and remained till night, +but brought on board only plants and insects. +In Mr. Cook’s reply, he said he was +willing to shew his Excellency his commission +again, the Viceroy having already seen it; and +that if any attempt to carry on a contraband +trade should be repeated, desired his Excellency +would take the offender into custody. Thus +terminated the dispute. +</p> +<p> +Mr. Banks (on the 26th in the morning) +artfully eluded the vigilance of the guard, and +went on shore: he avoided the town, and passed +the day in the fields, where the chief objects of +his curiosity lay. The people behaved with +civility, invited him to their habitations, and +he purchased a young pig for eleven shillings, +and some other things. But the next day it +was reported, that search was making for him +and Dr. Solander, which induced them to lay +aside all thoughts of going again on shore. +</p> +<p> +Being prepared for sea, with water and provisions, +they took on board a pilot the 1st of +December, but the wind being contrary, they +were prevented getting out. The next day a +Spanish packet arrived from Buenos Ayres, for +Spain, when the Captain politely offered to +take Mr. Cook’s dispatches to Europe; and he +accordingly sent, by that conveyance, all the papers +that had passed between him and the Viceroy, +<span class='pagenum'>177</span>leaving duplicates with his Excellency for +his court. +</p> +<p> +The Endeavour did not get under sail till the +7th, when having passed the Fort the pilot was +discharged, and the guard-boat quitted them at +the same time. During the last three or four +days of their remaining at Rio de Janeiro, the +air was covered with butterflies, chiefly of one +kind. +</p> +<p> +From the observations of the writer of the +first account of this voyage, we have the following +description of the town and country. +Rio de Janeiro, is supposed to have been +thus named on account of its being discovered +on the festival of saint Januarius. The +town, which is the capital of the dominions of +the Portuguese, in America, borrows its name +from the river Januarius. +</p> +<p> +It is situated on the west side of the river, +from which it extends itself about three quarters +of a mile. The ground on which it stands +is a level plain; it is defended on the north +side by a hill that extends from the river, leaving +a small plain, which contains the suburbs +and the King’s dock. On the south side is another +hill, running towards the mountains which +are behind the town. Some of its streets run +parallel from north to south, and are intersected +by others at right angles. The principal street +is near an hundred feet in width, and extends +from St. Benedict to the foot of Castle-hill; +<span class='pagenum'>178</span>the other streets are commonly twenty or thirty +feet wide. The houses adjoining to the principal +street have three stories, but in other places they +are very irregular, though built after the same +manner as in Lisbon. In the town are four convents; +the first is that of the Benedictines, situated +near its northern extremity; this structure +affords an agreeable prospect, and contains +an elegant chapel, which is ornamented +with several valuable paintings. The second is +that of the Carmelites, which forms the centre +angle of the royal square, and fronts the harbour; +its church had fallen some time before, +but it is again rebuilding in a very elegant manner, +with fine free-stone brought thither from +Lisbon. The third is that of St. Anthony, situated +on the point of a hill on the south side +of the town; before this convent stands a large +bason of brown granite, in the form of a parallelogram, +which is employed in washing. +The fourth is situated at the eastern extremity +of the town, and was formerly the Jesuits convent, +but is now converted into a military +hospital. +</p> +<p> +The Viceroy’s palace forms the right angle +of the royal square: the palace, mint, stables, +goal, &c. compose but one large building, +which has two stories, and is ninety feet from +the water. In passing through the palace, the +first entrance is to a large hall or guard-room, +to which there is an ascent of three or four steps. +<span class='pagenum'>179</span>In the guard-room are stationed the body guards +who attend the Viceroy, and are relieved every +morning between eight and nine. Adjoining +to the hall are the stables, the prison being in +the back part of the building. Within the +guard-room is a flight of stairs for ascending to +the upper story; this divides at a landing-place +about half way, and forms two branches, one +leading to the right, and the other to the left. +The former enters a saloon, where there are two +officers in constant attendance; the Viceroy’s +aid-du-camp at the same time waiting in an anti-chamber +to receive messages and deliver orders. +</p> +<p> +The left wing of the royal square is an irregular +building, which consists chiefly of shops +occupied by trading people. In the center of +the square is a fountain supplied with water from +a spring at the distance of three miles, from +which it is brought by an aqueduct. From +this fountain both the shipping and inhabitants +are supplied with water, the place being continually +crowded with negroes of both sexes +waiting to fill their jars. At every corner of +the streets is an altar. The market-place extends +from the north-east end of the square along +the shore; and this situation is very convenient +for the fishing-boats, and those who +bring vegetables from the other side of the +river to market. Negroes are almost the only +people employed in selling the different +<span class='pagenum'>180</span>commodities exposed in the market, and +they employ their leisure time in spinning of +cotton. +</p> +<p> +Without the Jesuits college on the shore is a +village called Neustra Seignora del Gloria, which +is joined to the town by a very few intervening +houses. Three or four hundred yards within +the Jesuits convent stands a very high castle, but +it is falling to decay. The bishop’s palace is +about three hundred yards behind the Benedictine +convent, and contiguous to it is a magazine +of arms, surrounded by a rampart. +</p> +<p> +The gentry here keep their chaises, which are +drawn by mules; the ladies however use a sedan +chair, boarded before and behind, with +curtains on each side, which is carried by two +negroes, depending from a pole connected to +the top of the chair by two iron rods coming from +under its bottom, one on each side, and resting +at the top. The inhabitants likewise use hammocks +or rajas, supported in the same manner, +and surrounded with curtains. +</p> +<p> +In this town the apothecaries shops commonly +serve the purposes of a coffee-house, people meeting +in them to drink capillaire, and play at +back-gammon. The gentry when seen abroad +are well dressed, though at home they are but +loosely covered: the shopkeepers have commonly +short hair, and wear linen jackets with +sleeves. Beggars, who infest the streets of +<span class='pagenum'>181</span>most European cities, are not to be found in +this. +</p> +<p> +With regard to the women, it is on all hands +agreed, that the females of the Portuguese and +Spanish settlements in South America, are less +averse to granting amorous favours, than those +of any other civilized part of the globe. According +to Dr. Solander’s account, as soon as +the evening began, females appeared on all +sides in every window, and particularized those +of the male sex they liked by giving them nosegays; +the Doctor and two other gentlemen received +so many of these bouquets, that they +threw handfuls away. +</p> +<p> +The climate of Rio de Janeiro is both agreeable +and healthy, being free from many inconveniencies +that are incident to other tropical countries. +The air is but seldom immoderately hot, +as the sea breeze constantly begins to blow about +ten o’clock in the morning, and continues until +night, when it is generally succeeded by a land +wind, though this does not always happen. +The seasons are divided into rainy and dry; +though their stationary periods have lately become +very irregular and uncertain: indeed +the rainy seasons had almost entirely failed the +four years preceding their arrival, at which time +the rains had just begun, and they fell in large +quantities during their stay: formerly the streets +have been overflowed by the rain, and rendered +impassable except with canoes. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>182</span>The adjacent country is mountainous, and +chiefly covered with wood, but a small part of +it appearing to be cultivated. The soil near +the town is loose and sandy, but farther from +the river it is a fine black mould. It produces +all the tropical fruits, such as oranges, lemons, +limes, melons, mangoes, cocoa-nuts, &c. in +great abundance, and without much cultivation; +a circumstance which is very agreeable to the +inhabitants, who are very indolent. +</p> +<p> +The mines, which lie far up in the country, +are very rich; but their situation is concealed, +and nobody can view them, except those who +work in them. The experiment is very dangerous, +for every one found upon the road +which leads to them is hung upon the next tree, +unless he can give a satisfactory account of the +cause of his being in that situation. About +twelve months before their arrival, the government +had detected several jewellers in carrying +on an illicit trade for diamonds with the slaves +in the mines; and immediately after a law passed, +making it felony to work at the trade, or have +any tools in possession, the civil officers having +indiscriminately seized on all that could be +found. Near forty thousand negroes are annually +imported to dig in the mines; these works +are so pernicious to the human frame, and occasion +so great a mortality amongst the poor +wretches employed in them, that in the year +<span class='pagenum'>183</span>1766 twenty thousand more were draughted +from the town of Rio, to supply the deficiency +of the former number. +</p> +<p> +There are several courts of justice in the +town, at all of which the Viceroy presides; in +criminal causes the sentence is regulated by a +majority of voices in the supreme court. The +Viceroy has a Council appointed from Europe +by the king, to assist him in his private department, +where he has two voices. +</p> +<p> +The inhabitants of Rio de Janeiro maintain a +whale-fishery, which supplies them with lamp-oil. +They import their brandy from the Azores, +their slaves and East India goods from their +settlements in Africa, their wine from Madeira, +and their European goods from Lisbon. +</p> +<p> +The current coin is Portuguese, which is +struck here; the silver pieces are called Petacks, +of different value; and the copper are five and +ten ree pieces. +</p> +<p> +Rio de Janeiro is very useful for ships that +are in want of refreshment; the harbour is safe +and commodious, and may be distinguished by +a remarkable hill, in the shape of a cone, at +the west point of the bay. The entrance is not +wide, but it is easy, from the sea breeze, which +prevails from noon to sun-set, for any ship to +enter before the wind. The entrance of the +narrow part is defended by two forts, La Cruz +and Lozia; they are about three quarters of a +<span class='pagenum'>184</span>mile from each other. The bottom being +rocky, renders it dangerous to anchor here, but +this may be avoided by keeping the middle of +the channel. The whole coast abounds with +a very great variety of fish, among which are +dolphins and mackrel. +</p> +<p> +On the 9th of December they took out of the +sea an incredible number of atoms, of a yellowish +colour, few of them more than the 50th +part of an inch in length; it could not even +with a microscope be determined whether they +were animal or vegetable substances. These +atoms tinged the sea in such a manner, as to +cover it with broad streaks of a colour similar +to themselves, the greatest part of a mile in +length, and several hundred yards in width. +</p> +<p> +Thursday, December 8, 1768, having procured +all necessary supplies, they left Rio de Janeiro; +they did not meet with any material occurrence +from this time to the 22d, when they discovered +numerous birds of the Prosillaria genus, in +latitude 39 degrees 37 minutes south, and longitude +49 degrees 16 minutes west; they were +also frequently surrounded by great numbers of +porpoises, of a singular species, which were +about fifteen feet in length, and of an ash-colour. +On the 23d they observed an eclipse +of the moon; and about seven o’clock in the +morning a small white cloud appeared in the +west, from which a train of fire issued, extending +<span class='pagenum'>185</span>itself westerly: about two minutes after +they heard two distinct loud explosions, immediately +succeeding each other like canon, after +which the cloud soon disappeared. +</p> +<p> +On the 24th they caught a large loggerhead +tortoise, weighing one hundred and fifty pounds. +They likewise shot several birds, among which +was an albetross, measuring between the tips of +its wings nine feet and an inch; and from its +beak to the tail two feet one inch and an half. +On the 30th they ran upwards of fifty leagues, +through vast numbers of land insects, some in +the air, and others upon the water; they appeared +to resemble exactly the flies that are seen +in England, though they were thirty leagues from +land, and some of these insects never quit it +beyond a few yards. Captain Cook imagined +he was at this time nearly opposite to the bay +called Sans fond (without bottom) where it is +supposed, by some writers, that the continent +of America is divided by a passage; but it was +the opinion of the gentlemen on board, that +there might be a large river, which probably +had occasioned an inundation. The 31st they +had much thunder, lightning, and rain: this +and the three following days they saw several +whales, and likewise several birds, about the +size of a pidgeon, with white bellies and grey +beaks. +</p> +<p> +January 4, 1769, they saw an appearance of +land, which they mistook for Pepys’ island; +<span class='pagenum'>186</span>but on their standing towards it, it proved, +what the sailors call a Fog Bank. The ship’s +crew were about this time, on their complaining +of cold, furnished with each a pair of trowsers, +and a jacket made of the stuff called Fearnought. +They saw on the 11th, after passing +Falkland’s Island, at about four leagues distance, +Terra Del Fuego. Smoke was perceived, +which they took for a signal, as it did not continue +after they had passed along the shore to +the south-east. On the 14th they entered the +streight of Le Maire; but the tide being against +them, they were driven out with great violence, +and the waves ran so high, that the ship’s bowsprit +was frequently under water; at length +however they got anchorage, at the entrance of +a little cove, which Captain Cook called <span class="small-caps">St. +Vincent’s Bay</span>. +</p> +<p> +The weeds, which here grow upon rocky +ground, are very remarkable; they appear above +the surface in eight and nine fathoms water; +the leaves are four feet in length, and many of +the stalks, though not more than an inch and a +half in circumference, above 100. Mr. Banks +and Dr. Solander having been on shore some +hours, they returned with more than a hundred +different plants and flowers, hitherto unnoticed +by the European botanists. The country in +general near the bay was flat, and the bottom +particularly was a plain covered with grass; here +was plenty of wood, water and fowl, winter’s +<span class='pagenum'>187</span>bark was found in great abundance. The trees +are a species of the birch, but are neither lofty +nor large; the wood is white, and they bear a +small leaf. Here are also white and red cranberries. +</p> +<p> +Sunday 15, having anchored in 12 fathoms, +upon coral rocks, before a small cove, distant +from shore about a mile, two of the natives +came down upon the beach, in expectation that +they would land; but this situation affording +little shelter, the Captain got under sail again, +and the natives retired. +</p> +<p> +About two o’clock they anchored in the bay +of Good Success, and the Captain went on shore, +accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, +to search for a watering-place, and confer with +the Indians. These gentlemen proceeded about +a hundred yards before the Captain, when two +of the Indians having advanced forward and +seated themselves, they rose, upon Mr. Banks +and the Doctor’s coming up, and each of them +threw away a small stick, which they had before +in their hands; this they did in such a +direction, that the sticks flew both from themselves +and the strangers, which they meant as a +token of peace, and a testimonial of their renouncing +weapons; they then returned briskly +towards their companions, who had remained +at some distance behind, and made signs to +the strangers to advance, which they accordingly +complied with. The reception the gentlemen +<span class='pagenum'>188</span>met with was friendly, though the manner +was uncouth. The civility was returned, +by the distribution of beads and ribbons, with +which the Indians were much pleased. After +a mutual confidence had been thus established, +the rest of the English party joined, and a general +conversation, though of a singular kind, +ensued. Three of the Indians now returned +with the Captain and his friends to the ship, +whom they cloathed with jackets, and gave +them bread, jerked beef, &c. part of which +they eat, and carried the remainder on shore. +They refused to drink rum or brandy, after +tasting them, intimating by signs that it burnt +their throats. This circumstance may perhaps +corroborate the opinion of those who think water +the natural drink of mankind, as of all +other animals. One of these Indians made several +long and loud speeches, though no part +of either was intelligible to any of us. Another +of them stole the covering of a globe, +which he concealed under his skin garment. +After remaining on board about two hours, +they returned on shore, Mr. Banks accompanying +them. He conducted them to their companions, +who appeared no way curious to know +what their friends had seen, and the latter were +as little disposed to relate as the others were to +enquire. None of these people exceeded five +feet ten inches in height, yet their bodies appeared +large and robust, though their limbs +<span class='pagenum'>189</span>were small. They had broad flat faces, low +foreheads, high cheeks, noses inclining to flatness, +wide nostrils, small black eyes, large +mouths, small but indifferent teeth, and black +strait hair, falling down over their ears and +forehead, which was commonly smeared with +brown and red paints; and, like all the original +natives of America, they were beardless. Their +garments were the skins of guanicos and seals, +which they wrapped round their shoulders. The +men likewise wear on their heads a bunch of +yarn, spun from the wool of guanicos, which +falls over their foreheads, and ties behind with +the sinews or tendons of some animal. Many +of both sexes were painted in different parts of +their bodies, with red, white, and brown colours; +and had also three or four perpendicular +lines pricked across their cheeks and noses. +The women have a small string tied round each +ancle, and wear each a flap of skin tied round +the middle. They carry the children on their +backs, and are generally employed in domestic +labour and drudgery. +</p> +<p> +Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, attended by +servants, set out from the ship on the 16th, in +the morning, with the design of going into the +country as far as they could that day, and +returning in the evening. Having entered a +wood, they ascended the hill through a pathless +wilderness till the afternoon. After they had +reached what they had taken for a plain, they +<span class='pagenum'>190</span>were greatly disappointed in finding it a swamp, +covered with birch, the bushes interwoven, and +so inflexible they could not be divided; however, +as they were not above three feet high, they +stept over them; but they were up to the ancles +in the boggy ground. The morning had +been very fine, but the weather now became +cold and disagreeable; the blasts of wind were +very piercing, and a shower of snow fell. They +nevertheless pursued their route, in expectation +of finding a better road. Before they had got +over this swamp, an accident happened that +greatly disconcerted them; Mr. Buchan, one +of the draughtsmen Mr. Banks had brought out, +fell into a fit. It was absolutely necessary to +stop and kindle a fire, and such as were most +fatigued remained to assist him; but Messrs. +Banks, Solander, Green and Monkhouse, proceeded +and attained the spot they had in view. +Here they found a great variety of plants, that +gratified their curiosity, and repaid them for +their toil. +</p> +<p> +Upon returning to the rest of the company, +amidst the snow which fell in greater abundance, +and being pinched with the cold that was now +become more intense, they found Mr. Buchan +much recovered. They had previously sent +Mr. Monkhouse and Mr. Green back to Mr. +Buchan, and those who remained with him, in +order to bring them to a hill, which was conjectured +to lie in a better track for returning +<span class='pagenum'>191</span>to the wood, and was accordingly fixed on as a +place of rendezvous. They resolved from this +hill to pass through the swamp, which this way +did not appear to be more than half a mile in +extent, into the covert of the wood, in which +they proposed building a hut and kindling a +fire, to defend them from the severity of the +weather. The whole party accordingly met at +the place appointed about eight in the evening, +whilst it was still day-light, and proceeded towards +the next valley. Dr. Solander having often +passed mountains in cold countries, was sensible +that extreme cold, when joined with fatigue, +occasions a drowsiness, that is not easily +resisted; he accordingly intreated his friends to +keep in motion, however disagreeable it might +be to them; his words were, “Whoever sits +down, will sleep; and whoever sleeps, will +wake no more.” Every one seemed accordingly +armed with resolution; but on a sudden +the cold became so very intense, as to threaten +the most direful effects. It was very remarkable, +that Dr. Solander himself, who had so forcibly +admonished and alarmed his party, should +be the first who insisted upon being suffered to +repose. In spite of the most earned intreaties +of his friends, he lay down amidst the snow, +and it was with great difficulty they kept the +Doctor awake. One of the black servants became +also weary and faint, and was upon the +point of following the Doctor’s example. Mr. +<span class='pagenum'>192</span>Buchan was therefore detached with a party to +make a fire at the first commodious spot they +could meet with. Mr. Banks, with four more, +remained with the Doctor and Richmond the +black, who, with the utmost difficulty, were +induced to come on; but when they had traversed +the greatest part of the swamp, they +expressed their inability of going any farther. +When the black was informed, that if he remained +there he would soon be frozen to death; +he replied, that he was so exhausted with fatigue, +that death would be a relief to him. +Doctor Solander said he was not unwilling to +go, but that he must first take some sleep, notwithstanding +what he had before declared to the +company. Thus resolved, they both sat down, +supported by bushes, and in a short time fell +fast asleep. Intelligence now came from the +advanced party, that a fire was kindled about +a quarter of a mile farther on the way. Mr. +Banks then waked the Doctor, who had almost +lost the use of his limbs already, though it was +but a few minutes since he sat down; he nevertheless +consented to go on. Every measure taken +to relieve the black proved ineffectual, he +remained motionless, and they were obliged to +leave him to the care of the other black servant +and a sailor, who appeared to have been the +least hurt by the cold, and they were to be relieved, +as soon as two others were sufficiently +warmed to supply their places. The Doctor +<span class='pagenum'>193</span>was with much difficulty got to the fire. Those +who were sent to relieve the companions of +Richmond, returned in about half an hour, +without being able to find them. What rendered +the mortification still greater was, that a +bottle of rum, the whole stock of the party, +could not be found, and was judged to have +been left to one of the three who were missing. +There was a fall of snow, which incessantly +continued for near two hours, and there remained +no hopes of seeing the three absentees again, at +least, alive. About 12 o’clock, however, a +great shouting was heard at a distance, which +gave inexpressible satisfaction to every one present. +Mr. Banks and four others went forth +and met the sailor, with just strength enough to +walk; he was immediately sent to the fire, and +they proceeded to seek for the two others. +They found Richmond upon his legs, but incapable +of moving them; the other black was +lying senseless upon the ground. All endeavours +to bring them to the fire were fruitless, nor +was it possible to kindle one upon the spot, on +account of the snow that had fallen, and was +still falling, so that there was no alternative, +and they were compelled to leave the two unfortunate +negroes to their fate, making them, +however, a bed of boughs of trees, and covering +them very thick with the same. +</p> +<p> +As all hands had been employed in endeavouring +to move the two blacks to the fire, and +<span class='pagenum'>194</span>had therefore been exposed to the cold for near +an hour and a half, some of them began to be +afflicted in the same manner as those they went +to relieve. Briscoe, another of Mr. Banks’s +servants, in particular, began to lose his sensibility. +They at length reached the fire, and +passed the night in a very disagreeable manner. +The party that set out from the ship consisted +of twelve, of whom two were already judged +to be dead: it was doubtful whether a third +would be able to return on board; and Mr. +Buchan, a fourth, seemed threatened again with +his fits. The ship was at the distance of a long +day’s journey, through an unfrequented wood, +in which they might probably be bewildered till +night; and being equipped only for a journey +of a few hours, they had not provisions left +sufficient to afford the company a single meal. +</p> +<p> +On the 17th in the morning, at day-break, +nothing presented itself to view all around but +snow, the trees being equally covered with it as +the ground; and the blasts of wind were so +violent and frequent, that their journey was +rendered impracticable, and there was much reason +to dread perishing with cold and famine. +However, about six in the morning they were +flattered with a dawn of hope of being delivered, +by discovering the sun through the clouds, +which gradually diminished. Previous to their +setting out, messengers were dispatched to the +<span class='pagenum'>195</span>unhappy negroes, who returned with the melancholy +news of their death. +</p> +<p> +Though the sky had flattered their hopes, +the snow still continued falling very fast, which +prevented them beginning their journey so soon +as was proposed; but a breeze springing up +about 8 o’clock, added to the influence of the +sun, began to clear the air; and the snow falling +in large flakes from the trees, announced +a thaw. The force of hunger prevailed over +every other consideration, and induced them, +after having equally divided the small remains +of their provisions, to set forward on their +journey about 10 in the morning. +</p> +<p> +In about three hours, to their great astonishment +and satisfaction, they found themselves +upon the shore, much nearer to the ship than +their most sanguine expectations could have flattered +them. When they took a retrospect of +their former route from the sea, they found, +that instead of ascending the hill in a direct +line, they had made a circle almost round the +country. The congratulations every one on +board expressed at their return, can better be +imagined than expressed. +</p> +<p> +On the 20th Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander +went again on shore, and landed in the bottom +of the bay, when they collected many shells +and plants hitherto unknown. They returned +on board to dinner, and afterwards went to visit +an Indian town about two miles up the country. +<span class='pagenum'>196</span>The access was difficult on account of the +mud. When they approached the town, two of +the Indians came out to meet them: they began +to shout in the same unmeaning manner as they +had before done on board the ship. After this +had continued for some time, they conducted Mr. +Banks and the Doctor to the town. It was seated +on a small hill, over-shaded with wood, and +consisted of about a dozen huts; constructed +without art or regularity. They were composed +of a few poles inclining towards each other, +in the shape of a sugar loaf, which were covered +on the weather-side with grass and boughs; +and on the other side a space was left open, +which served at once for a fire-place and a door. +The huts that had been seen in St. Vincent’s +Bay were of the same kind. A little grass +served for beds and chairs, and their utensils +consisted of a basket for the hand, a satchel to +hang upon the back, and a bladder for water; +out of which they drank through a hole near the +top. This town was inhabited by a small tribe, +consisting of about 50 men, women and children. +Their bows and arrows were constructed +with neatness and ingenuity: they were made +of wood highly polished; and the point, which +was either glass or flint, was fitted with much +skill. Mr. Banks observed glass and flint amongst +them unwrought, with cloth, canvass, rings +and buttons, &c. it was therefore judged, that +they travelled at times to the north, as no ship +<span class='pagenum'>197</span>had touched at this part of Terra del Fuego +for some years. +</p> +<figure class='max100' style='width: 49em;'> +<img src="images/208.jpg" class="w100 v_align_b" alt=""> +<figcaption><i>View of a Town in the Island of Terra del Fuego.</i></figcaption> +</figure> +<p> +Neither did they testify any surprise at the +sight of fire arms, and appeared to be well acquainted +with their use. Probably the spot on +which Mr. Banks and the Doctor met them, was +not a fixed habitation; their houses not being +erected to stand any length of time, and they +were destitute of a boat or canoe. They did +not seem to have any form of government among +them, nor did there appear any kind of +subordination. These people appeared upon +the whole to be the out-casts of human nature, +whose lives were passed in wandering in a forlorn +manner over dreary wastes⁠—whose only dwelling +was a wretched hovel, such as has been described, +and their cloaths scarcely sufficient to +prevent their perishing with cold in the summer +of this country, much less in the extreme severity +of winter; their only food was shell-fish, +which must soon be exhausted at any +one spot; destitute of every convenience arising +from the rudest art, or even an implement to +dress their food. Such were these people, who +nevertheless appeared content; so little does +refinement or luxury promote happiness. +</p> +<p> +They observed no quadruped animals except +seals, sea lions and dogs. Mr. Banks saw, from +a hill, the impression of the foot-steps of a large +beast on the surface of a bog, but he could not +determine of what kind it was. This gentleman +<span class='pagenum'>198</span>observed no land-birds larger than an English +black-bird, except hawks and vultures; +there were however ducks, and other water fowl +in abundance; likewise shell-fish, muscles, +clams and limpets in great plenty. +</p> +<p> +It is remarkable, that in this country, though +uncleared, there was no species of hurtful or +troublesome animals. Mr. Banks and Dr. +Solander found a great variety of plants. The +beach and the birch may be used for timber. +The scurvy-grass and wild celery, it is imagined, +contain antiscorbutic qualities; and may +therefore be of service to the crews of such +ships as hereafter touch at this place. The former +is found in abundance near springs and +in damp places, particularly at the watering-place +in the Bay of Good Success, and resembles +the cuckow-flower or lady’s-smock in England. +The wild-celery resembles the celery in +our gardens, but the leaves are of a deeper +green. It grows in great plenty near the beach, +and upon the land above the spring-tides; and +tastes like parsley mixed with celery. In the +morning of Sunday, January 22, Captain Cook +having got in his wood and water, sailed out of +the bay, and steered his course through the +streight. +</p> +<p> +The generality of writers, who have described +the island of Terra del Fuego, have represented +it as covered with snow, and destitute of +wood. In this however they are evidently mistaken, +<span class='pagenum'>199</span>and their error must have arisen from +having visited it in the winter season, when it +possibly is covered with snow. The crew of +the Endeavour perceived trees when they were +at a considerable distance from the island, and +on their nearer approach, they found the sea +coast and the sides of the hills clothed with an +agreeable verdure. The summit of the hills +are barren, but the vallies are rich, and a brook +is to be found at the foot of almost every hill; +the water has a reddish tinge, but is not ill tasted, +and was some of the best Captain Cook +took in during his whole voyage. +</p> +<p> +The streight of Le Maire is bounded on the +west by Terra del Fuego, and on the east by +the west end of Staten Land, and is near five +leagues in length, and as many in breadth. +The bay of Good Success is seated about the +middle of it on the side of Terra del Fuego, +which presents itself upon entering the streight +from the northward; and the south head of it +may be distinguished by a land-mark, resembling +a road from the sea to the country. It affords +good anchorage, and plenty of wood and water. +Staten Land did not appear to Captain Cook +in the manner described in Lord Anson’s +Voyage; the horror and wildness with which it +is there depicted was not discernable to Mr. +Banks and the other gentlemen; on the contrary, +the land was neither destitute of wood +nor verdure, nor covered with snow, and on +<span class='pagenum'>200</span>the north side there appeared bays and harbours. +This difference may also probably arise from +their not having visited the place in the same +season of the year. +</p> +<p> +Thursday, January 26, Capt. Cook sailed +from Cape Horn. The farthest southern latitude +he made was 60 degrees 10 minutes, by +74 degrees 30 minutes west. The weather +being very calm, Mr. Banks sailed in a small +boat to shoot birds, when he killed some sheer-waters +and albatrosses; the latter were larger +than those caught to the north of the streight; +the sheer-waters were less, and their backs +darker coloured. The albatrosses proved very +good eating. +</p> +<p> +Notwithstanding the doubling of Cape Horn +is represented as a very dangerous course, and +that it is generally thought passing through the +streight of Magellan is less perilous, the Endeavour +doubled it with as little danger as the +North Foreland on the Kentish coast; the heavens +were fair, the wind temperate, the weather +pleasant, and, being near shore, they had a +very distinct view of the coast. +</p> +<p> +Wednesday, March 1, Captain Cook was in +latitude 38 degrees 44 minutes south, and longitude +110 degrees 33 minutes west, as well by +observation as by the log; which concurrence, +after a course of 660 leagues, was judged very +singular; from whence it was plain, he had no +currents that affected the ship, and most probably +<span class='pagenum'>201</span>had not approached any land of great extent, +as there are always currents near lands of considerable +compass. Mr. Banks killed more than +sixty birds in one day, and he caught two forest +flies of the same species, but never yet described: +he also found a cuttle fish, which had just +been killed by the birds; it was different from +the fishes of this name, met with in the European +seas, having a double row of sharp talons, resembling +those of a cat, which issued or retracted +at will. This fish made excellent soup. +</p> +<p> +Saturday, the 25th, on account of a squabble +about a bit of seal-skin, which he had taken in +a frolic, but which was represented to his officer +as a theft, one of the marines, a young fellow +about twenty, threw himself overboard, and +was drowned. +</p> +<p> +About 10 o’clock, Tuesday, April 4, Peter +Briscoe, servant to Mr. Banks, discovered land +to the south, about three or four leagues distant. +The Captain immediately hauled up for +it, and found it to be an island of an oval form, +with a lake or lagoon in the center, that extended +over the greatest part of it; the border +of land which surrounded the lake was in many +places low and narrow, especially towards the +south, where the beach consisted of a reef of +rocks; three places on the north side had the +same appearance. This dismembrance of the +firm land, made the whole resemble several +woody islands. To the west was a large clump +of trees, and in the center two cocoa-nut trees. +<span class='pagenum'>202</span>Captain Cook came within a mile on the north +side, but though he cast a line of 130 fathom, +he found no bottom, and could not meet with +any anchorage. The island appeared covered +with trees of different sorts, but the gentlemen +on board could not ascertain any, with glasses, +except palm-nuts and cocoa-nuts; there were +several natives visible on shore; they seemed +tall, with remarkable large heads, which might +probably be increased by some bandage; their +hair was black, and their complexions copper +colour. There appeared along the beach, a-breast +of the ship, some of these inhabitants, +with pikes or poles in their hands, which seemed +twice the height of themselves: they at this +time appeared naked; but when they retired, +upon the ship’s passing the island, they put on +a covering of a light colour. Some clumps of +palm-trees served them for habitations, and at a +distance resembled hilly ground, and the groves +had a very happy effect. This island was in latitude +18 degrees south longitude, 139 28 +west, and was named <span class="small-caps">Lagoon Island</span>. +</p> +<p> +Captain Cook saw land again in the afternoon +to the north-west. He reached it by sun-set, +when it appeared a low island covered with +wood, in form circular, about a mile in circumference. +No inhabitants were visible, nor any +cocoa-nut trees; though the Endeavour had +reached the shore within half a mile, yet the +island appeared covered with verdure of various +tinges. This island, which is distant from that +<span class='pagenum'>203</span>of Lagoon, about seven leagues north 62 west. +The gentlemen on board named <span class="small-caps">Thrumb Cap</span>. +</p> +<p> +Wednesday the 5th they continued their course +with a fine trade wind, and about three o’clock +discovered land to the west. This was a low +island between 10 and 12 leagues in circumference; +it resembled in form a bow, the cord +and arch forming the land, and the interstice +marking the water; the beach was flat, without +any visible herbage upon it, being covered +with sea-weeds. Its length was between three +and four leagues, and its width about 200 yards; +the bow terminated with two large tufts of cocoa-nut +trees; the arch was covered with trees +of various heights, and of different verdure; +some parts of it, however, was low, and resembled +the cord. They sailed along the beach, +within a league, till sun-set, when they judged +they were half-way between the two tufts of +trees; here they sounded. This island, from +the smoke that was discovered, appeared to be +inhabited, and it was named <span class="small-caps">Bow Island</span>. +Captain Cook’s second Lieutenant, Mr. Gore, +said, after they had sailed by the island, that +he had perceived several of the natives under +the first clump of trees, that he had discriminated +their houses, and observed many canoes +hauled up. But he was the only person who +made these observations, though there were several +upon deck besides himself. +</p> +<p> +About noon, on Thursday the 6th, they saw +<span class='pagenum'>204</span>land again to the west, and at three o’clock they +came up with it. This land seemed divided +into two islands, or rather collections of islands, +their extent being near nine leagues. The two +largest were divided from each other by a streight +of near half a mile in breadth. +</p> +<p> +Some of these islands were ten miles or more +in length, but appeared like long narrow strings +of land, not above a quarter of a mile broad; +they seemed, however, to produce trees of +different kinds, among which was the cocoa-nut +tree. Several of the inhabitants came out in +their canoes, and two of them appeared to have +a design of coming on board; but they, with +the rest, stopped at the reef. When Captain +Cook had got about a league from the shore, +he perceived some of the natives following in a +canoe, with a sail: he did not think proper to +wait for her, and though she had passed the +reef, she discontinued her course. These people +appeared to be about our size, and well +made: their complexion was brown, and they +seemed naked; they had, for the most part, +two weapons in their hands; one was a thin +long pole, with a kind of spear at the end; +the other resembled a paddle; some of their +canoes were constructed to carry not more than +three men; others had on board six or seven; +one hoisted a sail, which, upon the falling of a +shower of rain, was taken down and converted +into an awning. It could not be determined +<span class='pagenum'>205</span>whether the signals made by the people on shore +were designed to deter the Endeavour’s company +from landing, or as an invitation to come +on shore; these waved their hats, the others +answered by shouting. The Captain did not +judge it prudent or merciful to be convinced +in this respect, as the island appeared of no importance, +and the crew were not destitute of +any thing it could produce; and as it must have +proved a bloody contest on the side of the unarmed +Indians. This curiosity was therefore +laid aside, in expectation of soon discovering the +island, where they had been directed to make +their astronomical observations, the natives of +which, it is reasonable to conjecture, would +make no opposition to the landing of the gentlemen +on board, having already experienced +the danger of resistance. +</p> +<p> +Captain Cook discovered another island on +the seventh, about six in the morning, which was +judged to be in compass about five miles. It +was very low, with a piece of water in the center, +and appeared to abound in wood, and to be covered +with verdure, but no inhabitants were +visible. It was called <span class="small-caps">Bird Island</span>, from the +number of birds that were flying about. +</p> +<p> +Saturday 8, in the afternoon, they saw land to +the north, and in the evening came a-breast of +it, at about five miles distance. This land +seemed to be a chain of low islands, it was of +an oval figure, and consisted of coral and sand, +<span class='pagenum'>206</span>with a few clumps of small trees, and in the +middle of it was a lagoon. It was, from its appearance, +called <span class="small-caps">Chain Island</span>. They saw +smoke, which arose from different parts, by +which they were convinced it was inhabited. +</p> +<p> +On Monday the 10th, after a tempestuous +night, Captain Cook saw Osnaburgh Island; it +is called by the natives Maite. This island is +high and circular, about four miles in circumference; +it is partly naked and rocky, and +partly covered with trees. +</p> +<p> +The same day, upon their looking out for +the island to which they were destined, they saw +land a-head. The next morning it appeared +very high and mountainous, and it was known +to be King George the IIId’s Island, so named +by Captain Wallis, but by the natives called +Otaheite. The calms prevented the Endeavour +from approaching it till the morning of the +12th, when a breeze springing up, before 11 +several canoes were making towards the ship; +only a few approached, and the people on board +those that came the nearest would not come on +board Captain Cook. Each canoe had in it +young plantains, and branches of trees. They +were brought, as Captain Cook was afterwards +informed, as tokens of peace and friendship, and +they were handed up the sides of the ship by +the people in one of the canoes, who made signals +in a very expressive manner, intimating, +that they desired these emblems of pacification +<span class='pagenum'>207</span>should be placed in a conspicuous part of the +ship; and they were accordingly stuck amongst +the rigging, at which they certified their approbation. +Their cargoes consisting of cocoa-nuts, +bananas, bread fruit, apples and figs, which +were very acceptable to the crew, and were then +purchased. +</p> +<p> +In the evening they opened the north-west +point, and saw York Island, so named by the +crew of the Dolphin. They lay off and on all +night, and in the morning of the 13th they entered +Port Royal Harbour, in the island of +Otaheite, and anchored within half a mile of +the shore. A great number of the natives immediately +came off in their canoes, bringing +with them bananas, cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, +apples, and some hogs, which they bartered +with the snip’s crew for beads and other trinkets. +</p> +<p> +The tree that bears the bread-fruit is about the +size of the horse-chesnut; its leaves are near a foot +and a half long, in shape oblong, resembling, in +almost every respect, those of the fig-tree; its +fruit is not unlike the cantaloupe melon, either +in size or shape; it is inclosed in a thin skin, and +its core is as large as a person’s thumb; it is +somewhat of the consistency of new bread, and as +white as the blanched almon: it divides into parts, +and they roast it before it is eaten; it has little or +no taste. An elderly man, named <i>Owhaw</i>, who +was known to Mr. Gore and others, who had +visited this island with Captain Wallis, came on +<span class='pagenum'>208</span>board, and as he was considered a useful man, +the Captain endeavoured to gratify all his enquiries. +Captain Cook now drew up several +necessary rules for the regulation of their traffic +with the inhabitants, and ordered that they +should be punctually observed. +</p> +<p> +When the ship was properly secured, the +Captain went on shore with Mr. Banks and Dr. +Solander, a party under arms, and their friend +the old Indian. They were received on shore +by some hundreds of the natives, who were +struck with such awe, that the first who approached +crept almost upon his hands and +knees. He also presented to them branches of +trees, the usual symbol of peace. This symbol +was received, on the part of the English gentlemen, +with demonstrations of satisfaction and +friendship; and noticing, that while each of +the Indians held one of these branches in his +hand, they gathered some, and followed the +example of the natives. +</p> +<p> +They were conducted by the old Indian, +accompanied by his countrymen, towards the +place where the Dolphin had watered; here the +ground being cleared, the chiefs of the natives +threw down their boughs, and the Captain and +his companions followed the example, after having +drawn up the marines, who, marching in +order, dropped their branches upon those of the +Indians. When they came to the watering-place, +the Indians intimated, that they had +<span class='pagenum'>209</span>their permission to occupy that ground, but it +was not suited to their purpose. In the course +of this walk, and a circuit through the woods, +the Indians had got rid of their timidity, and +became familiarized. On the way they received +beads and other small presents, at which they +expressed great pleasure. +</p> +<p> +The whole circuit was near four miles, thro’ +groves, consisting of trees of cocoa-nuts and +bread-fruit. Beneath which trees were the habitations +of the natives, consisting of only a +roof, destitute of walls. In this peregrination +the gentlemen were not a little disappointed +at finding very few fowls or hogs. Captain +Cook was informed by such of the party as had +been here with the Dolphin, that none of the +people hitherto seen were of the first rank, and +they imagined the Queen’s residence was moved, +no traces remaining of it. Next morning, before +they left the ship, several canoes came about +her, filled with people, whose dress denoted +them of the superior class: two of these +came on board, and each of them fixed upon +a friend; one of them chose Mr. Banks, and +the other Captain Cook. The ceremony consisted +of taking off their cloaths in great part, +and putting them upon their adopted friends. +This compliment was returned, by presenting +them some trinkets. They then made signs +for these gentlemen to go with them to the place +of their abode; and the Captain being desirous +<span class='pagenum'>210</span>of meeting with a more convenient harbour, +and knowing more of the people, readily assented. +Accordingly the Captain, Mr. Banks, +Dr. Solander, with the Indians and other friends, +got into two boats. About three miles distance +they landed, among several hundreds of the natives, +who conducted them to a large house. +Upon their entrance they saw a middle aged +man, named <i>Tootahah</i>, who, as soon as they +were seated, ordered a cock and hen to be produced, +which he presented to Mr. Banks and +the Captain, as well as a piece of perfumed +cloth; which compliment was returned by a +present from Mr. Banks. They were then conducted +with great civility to several large houses, +constructed in the same manner as those already +described; the ladies, so far from shunning, invited, +and even pressed them to be seated. +Whilst they were afterwards walking along the +shore, they met, accompanied by a great number +of natives, another Chief, named <i>Tubora +Tumaida</i>, with whom they settled a treaty of +peace, in the manner before described. Tubora +Tumaida intimated, he had provisions for +them if they chose to eat, and they accordingly +dined heartily upon bread-fruit, plantains +and fish. +</p> +<p> +In the course of this visit, Tomio, the wife of +the Chief, placed herself upon the same matt +with Mr. Banks, close by him, but she not being +young, nor appearing ever to have possessed +<span class='pagenum'>211</span>many charms; to these causes may be ascribed +the little attention this gentleman paid her; +and Tomio received the additional mortification +of Mr. Banks’s beckoning to a pretty girl, +who, with some reluctance, came and seated +herself by him. The Princess was somewhat +mortified at the preference given to her rival, +nevertheless she continued her assiduities to +him. This whimsical scene was interrupted by +an event of a serious nature. Dr. Solander having +discovered that he had lost an opera glass, +they complained to the Chief, and interrupted +the convivial party. This complaint was enforced, +by Mr. Banks’s starting up and striking +the butt end of his musket on the ground, +which struck the Indians with a panic, and they +all precipitately ran out of the house, except +the Chief, and a few others of the superior class. +</p> +<p> +The Chief appeared much concerned at this +accident; not, as we had reason afterwards to +believe, that he had any aversion to knavish +practices, but because he feared that this early +instance of dishonesty might give us unfavourable +suspicions of his countrymen, and thereby +deprive him of those advantages and emoluments +which they expected to gain from us, +and which by various artifices they afterwards +secured, when our connexion with them became +more intimate. The chief, therefore, to +obviate any disadvantageous impressions, gave us +to understand, with an appearance of great +<span class='pagenum'>212</span>probity, that the place which the Doctor had +mentioned was not within his district, but that +he would send to the Chief of it, and endeavour, +if possible to have the glass recovered; +but that if this could not be done, he would +make the Doctor compensation, by giving him +as much new cloth, of which he shewed large +quantities, as should be thought equal to its value. +The case however was in a little time +brought, and the glass itself soon after, which +deprived us of the merit we should otherwise +have had in refusing the cloth which had been +offered us. But it afforded an opportunity of +convincing the natives of our generosity, by +lavishing rewards on them for an action, to +which self-interest had been the motive, rather +than any sentiment of probity; to which, from +numerous transactions, they appeared to be absolute +strangers. After this adventure was amicably +terminated, they returned to the ship about +six o’clock in the evening. +</p> +<p> +Saturday the 15th in the morning, several of +the Chiefs, one of whom was very corpulent, +came on board from the other point, bringing +with them hogs, bread-fruit, and other refreshments, +in exchange for which they gave them +hatchets, linen, beads and other trinkets, but +some of them took the liberty of stealing the +top of the lightening chain. This day the +Captain, attended by Mr. Banks and some of +the other gentlemen, went a-shore to fix on a +<span class='pagenum'>213</span>proper spot to erect a small fort for their defence +during their stay on the island; and the ground +was accordingly marked out for that purpose. +A great number of the natives looking on all +the while, and behaving in the most peaceable +and friendly manner. +</p> +<p> +Mr. Banks having suspected, from seeing few +hogs or poultry in their walks, that they had, +upon the ship’s arrival, been driven farther up +the country, it was resolved to penetrate into +the woods; some marines and a petty officer +being appointed to guard the tent in the interim; +several of the natives accompanied the +gentlemen in this excursion. Upon crossing a +little river Mr. Banks perceiving some ducks, +fired, and killed three. The Indians were struck +with the utmost terror at this event, which occasioned +them to fall suddenly to the ground, as +if they had been shot at the same time; they +recovered, however, presently from their fright, +and continued the march. Before this party +had gone much farther, they were alarmed by +the discharge of two pieces, fired by the tent-guard. +Owhaw, after calling together the Captain’s +party, dispersed all the Indians except +three, who broke branches of trees as pledges +of their fidelity. Upon their return to the tent, +it appeared, that an Indian had taken an opportunity +to snatch away one of the centinels +musquets; whereupon a young midshipman, +under whose command the party was, very imprudently +<span class='pagenum'>214</span>ordered the marines to fire, which +they did immediately amongst the thickest of +the fugitive Indians, in number above a hundred, +several of whom were wounded, but as +the criminal did not fall, they pursued and shot +him dead. +</p> +<p> +When Mr. Banks heard of the affair, he was +greatly displeased with the guard, and he used +his utmost endeavours to accommodate the difference; +going across the river, and through +the mediation of an old man, prevailed on many +of the natives to come over to them, bringing +plantain-trees, their usual signal of peace, and +clapping their hands in their breasts, they cried, +<i>Tyau</i>, which signifies friendship. In a short +time they became social and chearful, and seemed, +for the present, to have buried in oblivion +the wanton acts of cruelty which had been so +lately exercised on their fellow countrymen. +</p> +<p> +Few of the natives appeared next morning +upon the beach, and not one of them came on +board. From hence Mr. Banks and the other +gentlemen concluded, that their apprehensions +were not intirely removed, more especially as +even Owhaw had forsaken them. The Captain, +in consequence of these disagreeable appearances, +brought the ship nearer to shore, +and moored her so as to make her broad-side +bear on the spot which had been marked for +erecting the fort. The Captain went on shore +in the evening, with some of the gentlemen, +<span class='pagenum'>215</span>when the Indians assembled round them, and +they trafficked together in a friendly manner. +</p> +<p> +Mr. Banks had the misfortune of losing Mr. +Buchan on the 17th. +</p> +<p> +The same day they received on board a visit +from Tubora Tumaida and Tootahah. As +tokens of peace, they brought with them some +plantain branches, and would not risk themselves +on board till these had been received, being +probably alarmed at the affair of the tent. +They also brought some bread-fruit and a hog +ready dressed: in return for which they received +some nails. +</p> +<p> +The fort began to be erected on the 18th. +Some of the company were employed in throwing +up intrenchments, whilst others were occupied +in cutting fascines and pickets, which the +Indians of their own accord chearfully assisted +in bringing from the woods. Three sides of the +fort were fortified with intrenchments and pallisades; +and on the other which was flanked by +a river, the water-casks being filled, were placed +so as to form a breast-work. +</p> +<p> +This day the natives brought down such +quantities of bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts, that +it was necessary to reject them, and to intimate +to them, that the company would not want any +for two days. Beads were trafficked this day +for every thing. Mr. Banks’s tent being got up, +he, for the first time, slept on shore. No Indian +attempted to approach it the whole night; +<span class='pagenum'>216</span>however, a precaution had been taken to place +proper centinels about it. +</p> +<p> +Wednesday 19, Tubora Tumaida visited +Mr. Banks at his tent, and brought with him, +besides his wife and family, the materials for +erecting a house, in the neighbourhood of the +fort, where he designed to reside: some time +after he had reached the tent, he requested Mr. +Banks to accompany him back to the woods; +on their arrival at a place where he occasionally +resided, he presented him with two garments, +one of which was of red cloth, and the other +of very fine matting; in which, having clothed +Mr. Banks, he conducted him to the ship, and +with his wife and son staid to dinner: they had +a dish served up, which was prepared by one of +Tubora Tumaida’s attendants, not unlike in +taste to what in England is called flummery; +of this dish the natives seemed exceedingly +fond, but the English could not relish it. Tubora +Tumaida had likewise brought with him +some food, which appeared like the flower of +wheat; this being mixed with cocoa-nut liquor, +and some hot stones put into it, was stirred about +till it became a thick jelly; on tasting it, +they found it of an agreeable flavour, not very +inferior to good blanc mange. +</p> +<p> +Without the lines a sort of market was established, +which was tolerably well supplied. +Tubora Tumaida became Mr. Banks’s and +the other gentlemens frequent guest; he adopted +<span class='pagenum'>217</span>their manners, and was the only one of his +countrymen who had attempted to use a knife +and fork. +</p> +<p> +Mr. Monkhouse, the Surgeon, said he had +seen, in his evening walk the body of the man +who had been shot at the tent. It was deposited +in a shed, close to the house where he had +resided when alive, and others were within ten +yards of it. It was in length about fifteen feet, +and eleven in breadth, and the height was proportionable: +the two sides and one end were +partly enclosed with a sort of wicker-work, the +other end was entirely open. The corps was +deposited on a bier, the frame of which was +wood, with a matted bottom, supported by +posts about five feet high. The corps was covered +with a matt, and over that a white cloth; +by its side lay a wooden mace, and towards the +head two cocoa-nut shells: towards the feet was +a bunch of green leaves, and small dried boughs, +tied together and stuck in the ground, near +which was a stone the size of a cocoa-nut: here +was also placed a young plantain-tree and a stone +axe. A great number of palm-nuts were hung +in firings at the open end of the shed; and the +stem of a plantain-tree was stuck up without +the shed; upon this stem was placed a cocoa-nut +shell filled with fresh water. At the side +of one of the posts, there hung a little bag +with some roasted pieces of bread-fruit. The +natives did not seem pleased at his approaching +<span class='pagenum'>218</span>the body, their jealousy and uneasiness being +very visibly depicted in their countenances. +</p> +<p> +The flies on shore were so very tormenting, +that they were obliged to destroy them with +musqueto nets and fly traps. +</p> +<p> +They had a specimen of the music of the +country on the 22d; some of the natives performing +on flutes, which had only two stops; +they were blown like the German flute, but the +performer blew with his nostril instead of his +mouth: several others sung, only one tune, to +this instrument. +</p> +<figure class='max100' style='width: 30em;'> +<img src="images/232.jpg" class="w100 v_align_b" alt=""> +<figcaption><i>A Musical Youth of the New Discovered Islands in the Habit of his Profession.</i><br> +<i>A Fly Fan</i></figcaption> +</figure> +<p> +Some of the Indians brought the English +axes to grind and repair, most of which they +had received from the Dolphin; but a French +one occasioned much speculation, and it at +length appeared to have been left here by Mr. +de Bougainville. +</p> +<p> +On the 24th Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander +made an excursion into the country, which they +found to be level and fertile for about two +miles along the shore to the eastward, after +which the hills reached quite to the water’s edge, +and farther on they ran out into the sea. After +passing these hills, which continued about +three miles, they discovered a large plain, abounding +with good houses, inhabited by people +who seemed to be in affluence. A very +wide river issuing from a valley, added greatly +to the beauty of this place: they crossed this +river, and perceived the country to be again +<span class='pagenum'>219</span>barren, which determined them to return; but +just as they had taken this resolution, they were +offered some refreshment by one of the natives, +a man, as some authors describe to be, mixed +with many nations, but different from them all, +his skin being of a dead white, though some +parts of his body were not so white as others; +his hair, eye-brows, and beard were as white +as his skin. The great joy of Tubora Tumaida +and his women, who met them as they +returned, is not to be expressed. +</p> +<p> +On the 25th several of their knives were missing; +upon which Mr. Banks, who had lost his +among the rest, accused Tubora Tumaida +with having stolen it, which caused him to be +very unhappy, as he happened to be innocent +of the fact, Mr. Banks’s servant having mislaid +it; and the rest were produced in a rag by +a native. The Indian was some time before he +would forget this accusation, the tears starting +from his eyes, and he made signs with the knife, +that if he had ever been guilty of such an action, +as was imputed to him, he would suffer +his throat to be cut. However, in general, +these people, from the highest to the lowest, +are the greatest thieves in the world. +</p> +<p> +On the 26th, six swivel guns were mounted +upon the fort, which put the natives into great +consternation, and caused several fishermen, who +lived upon the point, to remove farther off, imagining +they were to be fired at in a few days. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>220</span>The next day Tubora Tumaida, with a +friend, a remarkable glutton, and three of his +women, dined at the fort; after which he set +out for his house in the wood. In a short time +he returned in much agitation, to acquaint Mr. +Banks, that the ship’s butcher had threatened +to cut his wife’s throat, upon her refusing to +sell him a stone hatchet, which he had taken a +fancy to, for a nail. It clearly appeared he had +been culpable, and he was flogged on board, in +sight of several of the Indians. As soon as the first +stroke was given they interfered, and earnestly +intreated that he might be untied. This being +refused, they burst into tears, and shewed great +concern. +</p> +<p> +On Friday 28, one of Tubora Tumaida’s +female attendants, came down to the fort in +the greatest affliction, the tears gushing from +her eyes, and full of lamentation. Mr. Banks +seeing her, insisted upon knowing the cause; +but instead of answering, she struck herself several +times with a shark’s tooth upon the head, +till she caused a great effusion of blood; while +her distress was unnoticed by several other Indians, +who continued laughing and talking with +the utmost unconcern. After this, she gathered +up some pieces of cloth, which she had +thrown down to catch the blood, and threw +them into the sea, as if she wished to obliterate +her absurd behaviour. She then bathed herself +in the river, and with remarkable chearfulness +<span class='pagenum'>221</span>returned to the tent, as if nothing extraordinary +had happened. +</p> +<p> +During the forenoon of this day, canoes were +continually coming in, and the tents at the fort +were filled with people of both sexes. Mr. Molineux, +Master of the Endeavour, went on +shore, and seeing a woman, whose name was +Oberea, he declared she was the person he judged +to be the queen of the island, when he came +there on board the Dolphin in the last voyage. +</p> +<p> +The eyes of every one were now fixed on her, +who had made so distinguished a figure, in the +accounts that had been given by the first discoverers +of this island. The person of the queen +Oberea was of a large make, and tall; she was +about forty years of age, her skin white; her +eyes had great expression and meaning in them; +she had been handsome, but her beauty was +now upon the decline. She was soon conducted +to the ship, and went on board, accompanied +with some of her family. Many presents +were made her, particularly a child’s doll, which +seemed the most to engross her attention. Captain +Cook accompanied her on shore; and as +soon as they landed, she presented him with a +hog, and some plantains, which were carried to +the fort in procession, Oberea and the Captain +bringing up the rear. They met Tootahah, +who, though not King, seemed to be at this +time invested with a sovereign authority. He +immediately became jealous of the Queen’s +<span class='pagenum'>222</span>having the doll; which made them find it necessary +to compliment him with one also. A +doll now was preferable to a hatchet, though +it was not considered so long, as they soon were +looked upon as trifles of little or no value. +</p> +<p> +The ship’s provisions seemed to be very acceptable +to the men, but the women were shy +of tasting any of them. They were solicited +strongly, this day, to dine with the gentlemen; +but they refused, and chose to partake of plantains +with the servants; a mystery that could +not be explained. +</p> +<p> +On Saturday 29, in the forenoon, Mr. Banks +paid a visit to Oberea, who was still asleep under +the awning of her canoe, whither he went +with an intention of calling her up. Upon entering +her chamber, to his great surprise, he +found her in bed with a handsome young fellow, +about five and twenty; upon which he +immediately retired with some precipitation, +not a little disconcerted at this discovery; but +he was soon given to understand, that such +amours were by no means considered scandalous, +and that Obadie, the person found in bed with +the queen, was by every one known to have been +selected by her as the object of her lascivious +hours. The queen soon got up and dressed herself +to wait upon Mr. Banks. After dressing +him in a suit of fine cloth, they proceeded +together to the tents. Mr. Banks paid a +visit in the evening to Tubora Tumaida, and +<span class='pagenum'>223</span>was greatly surprized to find him and his family +all in tears; he in vain attempted to discover +the cause, and soon took leave of them. Upon +his return he was told by the officers, that +Owhaw had foretold that the guns would be +fired in four days, and as this was the eve of +the third day, they were alarmed at the situation +they judged themselves to be in. In consequence +of this intelligence they doubled the +centries at the fort, and the gentlemen slept +under arms. Mr. Banks, about two in the +morning, went round the point, but finding +every thing as he could wish, he dropt all suspicions +of the Indians having hostile intentions, +and dwelt quite secure, as the little fortification +was now complete. +</p> +<p> +The next day, Sunday the 30th, Tomio +came running to the tents, and taking Mr. +Banks by the arm, to whom they applied in all +emergent cases, told him that Tubora Tumaida +was dying, owing to something which +had been given him to eat by his people, and +prayed him to go instantly to him. Accordingly +Mr. Banks went, and found the Indian +very sick. He was told, that he had been vomiting, +and had thrown up a leaf, which they +said contained some of the poison which he had +taken. Upon examining the leaf, Mr. Banks +found it to be nothing more than tobacco, +which the Indian had begged of some of their +people. He looked up to Mr. Banks, while +<span class='pagenum'>224</span>he was examining the leaf, as if he had not a +moment to live. Mr. Banks, now knowing his +disorder, ordered him to drink of cocoa-nut +milk, which soon restored him to health, and +he was as chearful as ever. +</p> +<p> +On the 1st of May Captain Cook produced +an iron adze, made in imitation of one of their +stone ones, which had been brought home by +Captain Wallis, and shewed it to Tootahah, who +took such a fancy to it, that notwithstanding he +was offered the choice of any of the things that +were in his chests, he snatched it up with the +greatest eagerness, and would accept of nothing +else. The same day a Chief, who had dined +on board a few days before, accompanied by +some of his women, who used to feed him, +came on board by himself, and when dinner +was on table, the Captain helped him to some +victuals, thinking upon this occasion he would +condescend to feed himself; but he never attempted +to eat, and had not one of the servants +fed him, he would certainly have gone without +his dinner. +</p> +<p> +In the afternoon they took the astronomical +quadrant, with some other instruments, on +shore. +</p> +<p> +On Tuesday the 2d, having occasion to use +the quadrant, to their great astonishment and +concern it was missing; this was the more extraordinary, +as a centinel had been posted the +whole night within a few yards of the tent in +<span class='pagenum'>225</span>which it had been deposited; and it had never +been taken out of the case in which it was packed. +Their own people were at first suspected, +imagining they might have mistaken the contents +for articles used in traffic. They searched the +fort and the adjacent places, and a considerable +reward was offered, as the loss of this instrument +would have rendered it impossible for them +to have made the necessary observations respecting +the Transit, one of the principal objects of their +voyage. After every fruitless search had been +made, Mr. Banks, accompanied by Mr. Green, +and some other gentlemen, set out for the +woods, where he thought he might gain some +intelligence of the robbery, if it had been +committed by the natives. In the course +of their journey they met Tubora Tumaida, +with a few of the natives, who was made by +signs to understand, that some of his countrymen +had stolen the quadrant, and Mr. Banks insisted +upon being conducted to the place where +it was concealed. Accordingly they proceeded +together a few miles, and, after some enquiry, +Tubora Tumaida received information of the +thief, and that he was to be found at a place +about four miles distant; as they had no other +arms but a brace of pistols, and the spot for +which they were destined was at so considerable +a distance from the fort, they were not +without some apprehensions of danger. They +accordingly dispatched one of their company to +<span class='pagenum'>226</span>Captain Cook, desiring him to forward another +party after them; having laid an embargo upon +all the canoes in the bay; a party accordingly +set out, with the Captain at their head. +</p> +<p> +Mr. Banks and Mr. Green in the interim +pursued their route, and at the very place which +had been mentioned were met by one of Tubora +Tumaida’s own people, with part of the +quadrant; soon afterwards the box in which it +had been packed, containing the other parts of +it, was recovered; and, upon examination, +though it had been taken to pieces, they had +the satisfaction to find it had received no material +injury. +</p> +<p> +In the evening, when Mr. Banks and the +other gentlemen, with Tubora Tumaida, returned, +they were very much surprized to find +Tootahah confined in the fort, the gate of +which was surrounded by the natives, who expressed +the utmost dread and anxiety on the +occasion, as they had no other expectation but +it was intended to put him to death. +</p> +<p> +Upon enquiry into this affair, it appeared +that the Indians were so much alarmed at +Captain Cook’s going up into the country with +a party of armed men, that in the evening most +of them forsook their habitations near the fort; +a canoe likewise attempted to leave the bay, +which the Lieutenant, who commanded on board +the ship, and had been ordered not to permit +any canoe to go out, perceiving, dispatched +<span class='pagenum'>227</span>a boat to detain her, but she no sooner came +near them than they jumped into the sea; among +this unfortunate number was Tootahah, +who, being taken up, was sent by the Lieutenant +to the fort; and the commanding officer thought +it his duty to detain him. +</p> +<p> +He could not be persuaded that he was not +to be put to death, till Captain Cook gave orders +for him to be conducted out of the fort. +He was received with great affection by the +people, every one pressing forward to embrace +him. +</p> +<p> +On Wednesday the 3d, in the morning, Mr. +Banks and Dr. Solander attended as usual to +purchase provisions, but the Indians brought +nothing to market; nor could they procure any +from some fishing-boats which came a-breast of +the tents, though they were in great want of +cocoa-nuts and bread fruit. Mr. Banks walked +into the woods, and heard great complaints +from the people of the ill treatment of their +Chief, who they said had been beaten, and +otherwise ill used, of which Mr. Banks declared +he was totally ignorant. The hogs which +he had left as a present, were sent for back by +the Chief, which, probably, he was of opinion +they had ill-deserved. However, they would +not send them till he came himself, by which +means they thought to procure a reconciliation, +knowing that absence would promote +that coolness between them, to which the first +<span class='pagenum'>228</span>interview might put an end, especially as they +were told, the Chief did not intend coming to +the fort for near a fortnight. +</p> +<p> +Their provisions now were extremely scarce, +and the markets ill supplied, the people resenting +the ill usage their Chief had received. The +next day, with some difficulty, Mr. Banks obtained +a few baskets of bread-fruit from Tubora +Tumaida in the woods, which were a +very seasonable relief. An axe and shirt were +sent for this day by Tootahah, in return for +his two hogs which they promised to bring him +the next day. If they had not complied with +this request, they could have scarcely procured +any provisions. +</p> +<p> +After his sending again early in the morning, +on Friday 5, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, +with the Captain, set out in the pinnace, taking +one of Tootahah’s people with them, they soon +reached Eparre, the place where he dwelt, +which was but a few miles to the west of the +tents. +</p> +<p> +Upon their arrival, they found great numbers +of people upon the shore waiting for them. +They were immediately conducted to the Chief, +whilst the people shouted round them, <i>Taio +Tootahah</i>, “Tootahah is your friend;” they +found him sitting under a tree, and some old +men standing round him. As soon as he had +made signs for them to sit down, he asked for +his axe, which Captain Cook presented to him, +<span class='pagenum'>229</span>with a shirt and a broad cloth garment, with which +he seemed greatly pleased; and put the garment +on. After eating a mouthful together in the +boat, they were conducted to a large area, or +court-yard, on one side of his house, where an +entertainment was provided for them, consisting +of wrestling. The Chief sat at the upper end +of the area, with several of his principal men on +each side of him, by way of judges, from +whom the conquerors received applause. +</p> +<p> +Ten or twelve combatants entered the area, +and after many simple ceremonies of challenging +each other, they engaged, endeavouring to +throw one another by dint of strength; then +seizing hold of each other by the thigh, the +hand, the hair, or the cloaths, they grappled +without the least art, till one was thrown on his +back; this conquest was applauded by some +words from the old men, and three huzzas. +After one engagement succeeded another, but +if they could not throw each other during the +space of a minute, they parted either by consent, +or the intervention of their friends. Several +women of rank were present; but it was +thought, they would not have attended this +amusement, only in compliment to the English +gentlemen. +</p> +<p> +A man with a stick, who made way for +them when they landed, officiated here as master +of the ceremonies, keeping order among +the people. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>230</span>When this entertainment was at an end, they +were informed, that some hogs and a quantity +of bread-fruit were preparing for their dinner; +which intelligence was the more agreeable, as +their appetites were at this time exceedingly +keen. But instead of dining either on shore or +on board of the boat, they had the mortification +of going as far as the ship by the desire of +the Chief. +</p> +<p> +As soon as the Chief was known to be on +board the ship, the people brought plenty of +bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and other provisions to +the fort. +</p> +<p> +On Monday 8, early in the morning, Mr. +Molineux, the Master, and Mr. Green, set out +in the pinnace to the eastward, in order to procure +some hogs or poultry; but after proceeding +a considerable way, and seeing many hogs +and a turtle, they could not purchase either. +They belonged to Tootahah, and the people +told them, that they could not sell them without +his consent; so absolute was the power +of this man. +</p> +<p> +They were now obliged, for the first time, +to bring out their nails to purchase provisions; +for one of the smallest size, they obtained near +twenty cocoa-nuts and some bread-fruit, so that +they soon got great plenty. +</p> +<p> +On Tuesday 9, in the forenoon, Oberea paid +them a visit, accompanied by her favourite +<span class='pagenum'>231</span>Obadee; she presented them with a hog and +some bread-fruit. +</p> +<p> +The forge being now set up and frequently +at work, became not only a new subject of admiration +to the Indians, but afforded the Captain +an additional opportunity of conferring obligations +on them, by permitting the smith, +during his leisure hours, to convert the old iron, +which they were supposed to have procured from +the Dolphin, into different kinds of tools. +</p> +<p> +The natives, after repeated attempts, finding +themselves incapable of pronouncing the names +of the English gentlemen, had recourse to new +ones formed from their own language, Mr. +Cook was named Toote; Hicks, Hete; Gore, +Touara; Solander, Tolano; Banks, Opane; +Green, Treene; and so on for the greatest part +of the ship’s crew. +</p> +<p> +As Mr. Banks was sitting in his boat, trading +with them as usual, on Friday the 12th, +a very extraordinary ceremony was performed +by some ladies who were strangers, to whom the +rest of the Indians giving way on each side, and +forming a passage, they advanced in procession +towards Mr. Banks, to whom they presented +some parrots feathers, plantains, and other plants. +They then brought a large bundle of cloth, +consisting of nine pieces, which being divided +into three parcels, one of the women, who appeared +to be the principal, stepping on one of +the parcels, pulled up all her cloaths as high as +<span class='pagenum'>232</span>her waist, and then, with an air of unaffected +simplicity, turned round three times. This ceremony +she repeated in the same manner on the +other two parcels of cloth, and the whole being +then presented to Mr. Banks, the ladies +went and saluted him; in return for which he +made them such presents as he thought would +gratify them the most. +</p> +<p> +The next evening Mr. Banks was under the +disagreeable necessity of reprimanding, in very +strong terms, Tubora Tumaida, for having the +insolence to snatch his gun from him, and firing +it in the air; a thing which surprised Mr. Banks +greatly, as he imagined him totally ignorant of +the use of it. And as their safety in a great +measure depended on keeping them in that state, +he told him, with threats, that his touching his +piece was the greatest of insults. The Indian +made no reply, but set off with his family to his +house at Eparre. He being an useful man, Mr. +Banks, accompanied by Mr. Molineux, thought +fit to go after him, and they found him among +a number of people, greatly dejected. However, +as Mr. Banks judiciously caused all animosity +to cease, they brought him back to supper; +after which the Chief and his wife both +slept in Mr. Banks’s tent. One of the natives, +not intimidated by their presence, attempted +that very evening to scale the walls of the fort, +but was prevented by the centinel. These Indians +<span class='pagenum'>233</span>could not resist making attempts to steal +the iron and iron tools within the works. +</p> +<p> +Sunday morning the 14th, divine service was +performed at the fort, in hopes that some of the +principal Indians might be present, but most +of them returned home before the time. However, +Tubora Tumaida, and his wife Tomio, +were present; they behaved with great decency, +but without the least apparent curiosity. They +made no enquiries with respect to the ceremonies, +and their brethren were as little inquisitive +upon their return. This evening several of their +people were witnesses to an entertainment of a +very extraordinary nature, which consisted of +the most indecent acts of lewdness. For example, +a young fellow cohabited in public with a +girl about eleven or twelve years of age, without +the least sense of shame; and what is still +more extraordinary, Oberea, with several other +females of the first rank, were present during +the whole time. +</p> +<p> +On Monday the 15th, Mr. Banks detected Tubora +Tumaida in having stolen some nails. Mr. +Banks having a good opinion of this Chief, +was willing to put his fidelity to the test, and +several temptations were thrown in his way, among +the rest a basket of nails, which proved +irresistible. He confessed the fact, and upon +Mr. Banks’s insisting upon restitution, he declared +the nails were at Eparre; this occasioned +high words, and at length the Indian produced +<span class='pagenum'>234</span>one of them. He was to have been forgiven +upon restoring the rest, but not having resolution +to fulfil his engagement, he fled with his +furniture and family before night. +</p> +<p> +On the 17th, one of the natives who came +in the morning before day-light to steal some +casks, it not being the first offence, the centinel +snapped his gun at him, but it missing fire he +escaped. +</p> +<p> +On Wednesday 24, Tootahah having sent +many messages to request a visit from the Captain, +declaring that he would acknowledge the +compliment by a present of some hogs. Mr. +Hicks the first Lieutenant was sent, in hopes of +getting the hogs without the visit. He was received +in a very friendly manner at a place called +Tettehah, five miles farther to the westward, +where Tootahah had taken up his residence. +He brought away one hog only, which had been +produced immediately upon his arrival, with a +promise of receiving more the next morning; +but, when morning came, he was obliged to +depart without them. Mr. Banks, on the 25th, +seeing Tubora and his wife Tomio at the tent, +for the first time after he stole the nails, endeavoured +to persuade him to restore them, but in +vain. He was treated with great coolness during +his short stay, and his departure was very abrupt. +</p> +<p> +On the 27th of May, Tootahah being removed +to a place called <i>Atahourou</i>, Mr. Banks, Dr. +Solander, Captain Cook, and some others, set +<span class='pagenum'>235</span>out in the pinnace to pay him a visit; after +making presents of a few trifling articles, they +were invited to stay the night. Mr. Banks having +accepted of a place in Oberea’s canoe, left +his companions, in order to retire to rest. Notwithstanding +the care Oberea took of his cloaths, +by having them in her own custody, they +were stolen with his pistols, powder-horn, +and many other things that were in his waist-coat +pockets. The alarm was given to Tootahah, +who slept in the next canoe, and who went +with Oberea in search of the thief, leaving Mr. +Banks with only his breeches on, and his musquet +uncharged. They soon returned, but without +success; Mr. Banks thought proper to put up +with the loss for the present, and a second time +endeavour to sleep. But he had scarce composed +himself, before he heard some musick, and +perceived lights at a small distance from shore; +this proved to be a concert, which they call +Heiva. Mr. Banks judged it then necessary to +get up and try to find his companions. As +soon as he approached the lights, he found the +hut, where Mr. Cook and three of his associates +lay, and began to relate his melancholy +tale; but instead of receiving much comfort +from them, he was told, that they had shared +the same fate, having lost their stockings and +jackets. However, this did not prevent their +hearing out the concert, which consisted of +<span class='pagenum'>236</span>drums, flutes, and several voices, after which +they retired to rest. +</p> +<p> +The next morning Mr. Banks got his musquet +from Tupia, with whom he had intrusted +it, and some cloaths from Oberea; in which +he made a whimsical appearance. They then got +together, and were joined by Dr. Solander, who +was the only one among them that had not been +robbed, having slept at a house about a mile +distant. As to the others they were obliged to +put up with their loss; their cloaths, &c. having +never been heard of afterwards. They set +out for the boat not very well pleased, carrying +with them only one hog, which had been +intended for their supper the night before. +</p> +<p> +In their return to the boat, they were greatly +amused by seeing some Indians swimming for +their diversion, amidst a surf, which no European +boat could have lived in, or the best +swimmer in Europe have saved himself +from drowning, had he by accident been exposed +to its fury. This extraordinary surf +breaks upon the shore in a few places, where +access to the island is not guarded by a reef, and +makes it very dreadful and dangerous. +</p> +<p> +Some Indians from a neighbouring island, to +which Captain Wallis gave the name of <span class="small-caps">Duke +of York’s Island</span>, informed them of more than +twenty islands in the neighbourhood of Otaheite. +</p> +<p> +They now began to make necessary preparations +for observing the Transit of Venus, and, +<span class='pagenum'>237</span>from the hints Mr. Cook had received from the +Royal Society, he sent out two parties to make +observations from different spots, that in case +they failed at Otaheite, they might succeed elsewhere; +they employed themselves in preparing +their instruments, and instructing such gentlemen +with the use of them, as were to go out. +And on Thursday the 1st of June, the next +Saturday being the day of the Transit, they sent +the long boat to Eimayo, having on board Mr. +Gore, Mr. Monkhouse, and Mr. Sporing, a +friend of Mr. Banks; each furnished with necessary +instruments by Mr. Green. Mr. Banks +and several of the Indians went out with this +party. Others were dispatched to find out a +convenient spot, at such a distance from their +principal station, as might suit their purpose. +</p> +<p> +Those who went to Eimayo in the long boat, +after rowing the best part of the night, by the +help of some Indians aboard a canoe, which +they hailed, found a proper situation for their +Observatory upon a rock, which rose out of the +water about one hundred and forty yards from +the shore, where they fixed their tents, and prepared +the apparatus for the following day’s observation. +</p> +<p> +On Saturday the 3d, as soon as it was light, +Mr. Banks left them to go to the island for fresh +provisions. As he was trading with the natives +who belonged to Tarrao, the King of the island, +his majesty arrived with his sister, whose name +<span class='pagenum'>238</span>was Nuna, in order to pay him a visit. It being +customary among these people to be seated +during their conferences, Mr. Banks spread on +the ground his Indian cloth turban, that he wore +instead of a hat, on which they all sat down. +After this the royal present was brought, consisting +of a hog and a dog, some cocoa-nuts, +bread-fruit, &c. A messenger was dispatched by +Mr. Banks for an adze, a shirt, and some beads, +and they were presented to his majesty, who received +them with great pleasure. Tubora Tumaida +and Tomio, Indians who had gone with Mr. +Banks upon the expedition, came from the Observatory: +Tomio, said to be related to Tarrao, +brought him a long nail, and a shirt for Nuna, +by way of presents. Mr. Banks returned to the +Observatory with Tarrao, Nuna, and three beautiful +young women, their chief attendants. He +shewed them the Transit of Venus over the Sun, +and informed them, that he and his companions +had come from their own country solely to view +it in that situation. +</p> +<figure class='max100' style='width: 49em;'> +<img src="images/254.jpg" class="w100 v_align_b" alt=""> +<figcaption><i>M<sup>r</sup>. Banks receiving a Visit from the King of Duke of Yorks Island.</i></figcaption> +</figure> +<p> +The produce of this island, according to the +inspection of Mr. Banks, proved to be much +the same as that of Otaheite, the people also +resembling those of that island, many of them +he had seen upon it, who were well acquainted +with the value of the trading articles. +</p> +<p> +Both the parties which were sent out, made +their observation with great success. They +nevertheless differed in the accounts of the times +<span class='pagenum'>239</span>of the contacts more than might have been +imagined. +</p> +<p class="align_c top_space"> +Mr. Green’s Account was as follows. +</p> +<table class=' margetb'> +<tr> +<th class="ac ph"></th> +<th class="ac pl">Hours</th> +<th class="ac pl">Min.</th> +<th class="ac pl">Sec.</th> +<th class="ac pl"></th> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al ph vt">The first external contact, or first appearance of Venus on the Sun, was</td> +<td class="ac pl vb">9</td> +<td class="ac pl vb">25</td> +<td class="ac pl vb">4</td> +<td class="al pl vb">Morning.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al ph vt">The first internal contact or total immersion was</td> +<td class="ac pl vb">9</td> +<td class="ac pl vb">44</td> +<td class="ac pl vb">4</td> +<td class="al pl vb">Morning.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al ph vt">The second internal contact, or beginning of the immersion</td> +<td class="ac pl vb">3</td> +<td class="ac pl vb">14</td> +<td class="ac pl vb">8</td> +<td class="al pl vb">Afternoon.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al ph vt">The second external contact, or total immersion</td> +<td class="ac pl vb">3</td> +<td class="ac pl vb">32</td> +<td class="ac pl vb">10</td> +<td class="al pl vb">Afternoon.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p class="noindent one_space"> +Latitude of the Observatory 17° 29′ 15″.<br> +Longitude 149° 32′ 30″ W. of Greenwich. +</p> +<p> +While they were viewing the Transit of Venus, +some of the ship’s company broke into one of +the store-rooms, and stole a quantity of spike-nails. +As the circulation of these nails might +have been greatly detrimental to them, strict +search was made, and one of the thieves was +detected. He had only a few in his custody; +but was however punished with two dozen +lashes. +</p> +<p> +The death of an old woman of some distinction +gave them an opportunity of observing +the manner of the Indians disposing of their +dead, whom they never bury. The kind of +bier, on which the corpse is deposited, has already +<span class='pagenum'>240</span>been described, and the bread-fruit, &c. +placed as before, which Tubora Tumaida informed +Mr. Banks was deposited as an offering +to their Gods. A sort of stile was placed in +the front of the square, where the relations of +the deceased stood to testify their sorrow; beneath +the awning were several pieces of cloth, +on which were the tears and blood of the +mourners, for upon these occasions they wound +themselves with a shark’s tooth. At a small +distance two temporary houses were erected, +in one of which some of the relations of the +deceased constantly remained, and in the other +the chief mourner resided, who was dressed in a +peculiar manner, to perform a particular ceremony. +After the corpse is rotten, the bones +are buried near the spot. It was afterwards discovered, +that these repositories of the dead +were used also for religious worship. +</p> +<p> +There having been a scarcity of bread-fruit +for some days, an enquiry was made of the +cause, and the reasons the Indians gave was, +that there being a great crop, the fruit had been +gathered to make a sort of sour paste, which +the natives call <i>Mahie</i>, which, after fermentation, +will keep a long time, and supply them +in times of dearth. +</p> +<p> +The funeral ceremony, in honour of the +old woman, was performed on the 10th by the +chief mourner, and Mr. Banks was so desirous +to be a spectator, that he agreed to take a part +<span class='pagenum'>241</span>in the performance of this ceremony, being informed, +that he could not be present on any +other condition. He accordingly went in the +evening to the place where the body was deposited, +there he was met by the relations of +the deceased, and afterwards joined by several +other persons. The chief mourner was Tubora +Tumaida; his dress was whimsical, though +not altogether ungrateful. Mr. Banks was +obliged to quit his European dress, and he had +no other covering than a small piece of cloth, +which was tied round his middle; his body was +then blacked with charcoal and water, as were +the bodies of several others, particularly some +females, who were as little covered as himself; +the procession then began. The chief mourner +uttered some words, that were judged to be a +prayer, when he approached the body; and he +repeated it as he came up to his own house. +After this the procession went on, by permission, +towards the fort. It is usual for the +Indians to shun these processions as much as +possible; they accordingly ran into the woods +in great haste, as soon at it came in view. From +the fort it proceeded along the shore. Having +crossed the river, it entered the woods, +passing several houses, which became immediately +uninhabited; and, during the rest of the +procession, which continued above half an hour, +not a single Indian was visible, Mr. Banks +filled an office they called <i>Nineveh</i>, and there +<span class='pagenum'>242</span>were two others in the same character. When +none of the other natives were to be seen, they +approached the chief mourner, saying, <i>imatata</i>; +then those who had assisted at the ceremony +bathed in the river, and resumed their customary +dress. +</p> +<p> +Such was this uncommon ceremony, in which +Mr. Banks performed a capital part, and met +with the applause of Tubora Tumaida, the +chief mourner. +</p> +<p> +Complaint was made on Monday the 12th +to the Captain, that the Indians had lost some +bows and arrows, and strings of plaited hair; +the affair was enquired into, and the fact being +well attested, two dozen lashes were inflicted +upon each of the criminals. +</p> +<p> +The bows and arrows of the Indians have not +hitherto been noticed; but this day Tubora Tumaida +brought his hither, occasioned by a challenge +he had received from Mr. Gore. The +Indian Chief imagined it was a trial of skill who +could shoot the farthest; but Mr. Gore proposed +shooting at a mark. The mistake being +soon discovered, the champions declined the +trial. The Indian, however, to display his skill, +drew his bow, and sent an arrow, unfeathered, +as they all were, nearly the sixth part of a mile. +They shoot kneeling, and drop the bow the instant +the arrow is discharged. +</p> +<p> +In this morning’s excursion, Mr. Banks met +several of the natives, who were itinerant musicians, +<span class='pagenum'>243</span>and the place of the evening’s rendezvous +being known, all the English gentlemen +went thither to partake of the diversion. Their +instruments were flutes and drums, and a great +number of the Indians were got together upon +the occasion. The drummers sung to the music, +and to the astonishment of Mr. Banks and +the rest of his companions they found, that they +were the chief subject of the minstrels lays. +These songs must, therefore, have been extemporaneous, +the rewards whereof were such necessaries as they required. +</p> +<p> +An iron coal rake for the oven being stole +in the night of the 14th, and many other things +having at different times been taken by the Indians, +the Captain judged it of some consequence, +if possible, to put an end to these practices, +by making it their common interest to +prevent it. He had already given strict orders, +that the centinels should not fire upon them, +even if they were detected in the fact. About +twenty-seven of their double canoes with sails +were just come in with cargoes of fish, which +the Captain seized, and then gave notice, that +unless the rake, and all the other things, which +had at different times been stolen, were returned, +the vessels should be burnt. The Captain +had, indeed, no such design, as will appear by +the event. The menace produced no other effect +than the restitution of the rake, all the +other things remaining in their possession; +<span class='pagenum'>244</span>at length the Captain thought proper to give up +the cargoes, as the innocent natives were in +great distress for want of them; and at last, +to prevent confusion, from the difficulty of ascertaining +to whom the different lots belonged, +he promised also to release the canoes. +</p> +<p> +About this time another event had nearly involved +the English in a quarrel with the Indians. +The Captain having sent a boat on shore +to get ballast, the officer not meeting immediately +with what he wanted, began to pull down +one of their sepulchral buildings: this measure +was strenuously opposed by the Indians. Mr. +Banks, having received intelligence of the affair, +repaired to the spot, and the matter was soon +amicably terminated, there being stones sufficient +found elsewhere. This was the only opposition +they had, hitherto, made, and the only +personal insult received (besides the affair of the +musket at the tent, for which the Indian forfeited +his life) was by Mr. Monkhouse, who having +pulled a flower within one of their burial inclosures, +was struck by an Indian; the gentleman +laid hold of him, but he was rescued by two +more, who pulling Mr. Monkhouse’s hair forced +him to quit his hold, after which they all ran off. +</p> +<p> +On the 19th in the evening, soon after dark, +while the canoes were detained by the Captain, +Oberea the Queen, and several of her attendants, +paid the gentlemen a visit; she came from +Tootahah’s palace, in a double canoe, and +<span class='pagenum'>245</span>brought with her a hog, bread-fruit, and other +presents, among which was a dog; but none of +the things that had been stolen; those she pleaded +had been taken away by her gallant Obadee, +for which she had beaten him. She did not, +however, seem to think her story deserved credit, +but appeared at first much terrified, though +she surmounted her fears with great fortitude; +and was desirous of sleeping with her attendants +in Mr. Bank’s tent; but this being refused, she +was obliged to pass the night in her canoe. The +Captain declined accepting of her presents, at +which she seemed very sorrowful. Mr. Banks +and the rest of the gentlemen retired to bed, +and a whole tribe of the Indians would have +slept in the bell-tent, but were not permitted. +</p> +<p> +The next morning the Queen returned to the +fort, and Captain Cook having altered his mind +accepted of her presents. Two of her attendants +were very earnest in getting themselves husbands, +in which they succeeded, by means of +the Surgeon and one of the Lieutenants: they +seemed very agreeable till bed-time, and determined +to lie in Mr. Banks’s tent, which they +accordingly did, till the Surgeon having some +words with one of them Mr. Banks thrust her +out, and she was followed by the rest, except +Otea Tea, who cried for some time, till he turned +her out also. This had like to have become +a serious affair, a duel being talked of between +Mr. Banks and Mr. Monkhouse, but it was happily +<span class='pagenum'>246</span>avoided. Dogs are esteemed here more +delicate eating than pork; as those bred to be +eaten taste no animal food, but live entirely upon +vegetables; and the experiment was tried. +Tupia undertook to kill and dress him, which +he did, by making a hole in the ground and +baking him. It was agreed by every one to be +a very good dish. +</p> +<p> +They were visited on the 21st at the fort by +many of the natives, who brought various kinds +of presents, and among the rest Oamo, a Chief +of several districts on the island, whom they had +never before seen, who brought with him a hog. +This Chief was treated with great respect by the +natives, and was accompanied by a boy, and a +young woman. The boy was carried upon a +man’s back, though he was very able to walk. +Oberea and some other of the Indians went out +of the fort to meet them, their heads and bodies +being first uncovered as low as the waist. +This was considered as a mark of respect, they +had not noticed it before, but judged it was usually +shewn to persons of distinguished rank among +them. Oamo entered the tent, but the +young woman, who was about sixteen, could +not be prevailed upon to accompany him, tho’ +she seemed to combat with her curiosity and inclination. +Dr. Solander took the youth by the +hand, and conducted him in; but the natives +without, who had prevented the girl’s entrance, +soon found means to get him out again. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>247</span>The curiosity of Mr. Banks and the other +gentlemen being excited from these circumstances, +they made enquiry, who these strangers +were, and were informed, that Oamo was Oberea’s +husband, but that by mutual consent they +had been for a considerable time separated; and +that the youth and girl were their offspring. +The boy was named <i>Terridiri</i>, and was heir apparent +to the sovereignty of the island; and +he was to espouse his sister as soon as he had attained +the proper age. The present sovereign +being a minor, called <span class="small-caps">Outou</span>, and son of Whappai; +Whappai, Oamo, and Tootahah, were all +brothers; Whappai was the senior, and Oamo +the next; wherefore, Whappai having no +child but Outou, Terridiri, son of Oamo, was +heir to the sovereignty. To us it will appear +singular, that a boy should reign during the +life of his father; but in the island of Otaheite, +a boy succeeds to his father’s authority and title +as soon as he is born; when a regent is elected, +which office usually falls upon the father, till +the boy becomes of age: at this time, however, +the election had fallen upon his uncle +Tootahah, on account of his warlike exploits. +Oamo was very inquisitive with respect to the +English, and by his questions he appeared a +man of understanding and penetration. +</p> +<p> +A woman called Teetee, who came from the +west of the island, presented to the Captain an +elegant garment, of a bright yellow ground, +<span class='pagenum'>248</span>bordered with red, and in the middle of it were +several crosses, which they had probably learned +from the French. +</p> +<p> +On the 23d in the morning, one of their +hands being missing, they enquired for him among +the natives, and were told that he was +at Eparre, Tootahah’s residence in the wood; +and one of the Indians offered to fetch him +back, which he did that evening. On his return +he informed them, that he had been taken +from the fort, and carried to the top of the bay, +by three men, who having stripped him, forced +him into a canoe, and conducted him to Eparre, +where he received some cloaths from Tootahah, +who endeavoured to prevail on him to continue +there. They had great reason to suppose this +account true, for the natives were no sooner acquainted +with his return, than they left the fort +with much precipitation. +</p> +<p> +Monday June 26, early in the morning, the +Captain set out in the pinnace, accompanied by +Mr. Banks, to circumnavigate the island. They +sailed to the eastward, and in the forenoon they +went on shore, in a part of the island under the +government of Ahio, a young Chief, who had +often visited them at the tents. They also +found here some other natives of their acquaintance. +They then proceeded together to the +harbour, wherein M. Bougainville lay when he +visited this island, and were shewn the ground +on which he fixed his tent, and the watering-place. +<span class='pagenum'>249</span>They also met with <i>Orette</i>, a Chief, who +was their particular friend, whose brother went +away with M. Bougainville. +</p> +<p> +Having taken a survey of this harbour, +and a large bay near which it is situated, +they proposed going to the opposite side of +the bay, but Titubaola, who was their conductor, +not only refused to accompany them, +but endeavoured to dissuade the Captain and +Mr. Banks from going, saying, “That country +was inhabited by people who were not +subjects to Tootahah, and who would destroy +them all.” This information did not, however, +prevent the execution of their design; and +upon loading their pieces with ball, Titubaola +took courage to go with them; they rowed +till it was dark, when they reached a narrow +neck of land, that divided the island into two +peninsulas, which are distinct governments. As +they were not yet got into the hostile part of +the country, they agreed to spend the night on +shore, where they were provided with supper +and lodging by Ooratooa, the lady who paid +her compliments to Mr. Banks in so remarkable +a manner at the fort. +</p> +<p> +In the morning they pursued their passage for +the other government. +</p> +<p> +They landed in a district, which was governed +by a Chief, named <span class="small-caps">Maraitata</span>, the <i>burying +place of men</i>, and his father was called <span class="small-caps">Pahairede</span>, +<i>the stealer of boats</i>. Notwithstanding +<span class='pagenum'>250</span>their names were so ominous, they gave the +Captain and Mr. Banks a very civil reception; +furnished them with provisions, and sold them +a large hog for a hatchet. The curiosity of the +natives was soon excited, and a crowd gathered +round the English gentlemen, but they saw only +two people whom they knew, neither did they +observe any trinkets that had come out of the +Endeavour, though they met with several European +commodities, particularly two twelve +pound shot, one of which had the English broad +arrow upon it, though the Indians said they had +them from M. Bougainville’s people. They +then advanced till they reached the district, +which was under the dominion of the principal +Chief, or King, named <i>Waheatua</i>, who had a +son, but it was not known in whose hands the +sovereign power was lodged. Here they found +a spacious verdant plain, watered by a river of so +great a width, that they were obliged to pass it +in a canoe, but their Indian followers swam over +it with the greatest facility. There was no house +that appeared inhabited; but the ruins of several +large ones. Having continued their journey along +the shore for a considerable way, they at last saw +the Chief, and with him an agreeable young woman +about two and twenty, named Toudidde. +They were not unacquainted with her name, as +they had often heard it mentioned by the natives; +and they had great reason to suppose she +was the Queen of this peninsula. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>251</span>In passing through this part of the island, +they found it better cultivated, and more improved +than any they had hitherto met with; +though the houses were but few, and those +very small, but there were a great number of +canoes which excelled any they had seen, both +in size and workmanship. The burial places +were likewise numerous, being found not only at +every point, but at different places in the interior +parts of the island. These buildings +nearly resembled, in form, those which they +had seen at Opouroenu, but they were neater, +and adorned with carvings of various figures; +in one there was a cock, which was painted in +imitation of the natural colour of the feathers of +that bird. Notwithstanding the fertility of the +country, and its being well cultivated, scarce any +bread-fruit was to be met with, and the inhabitants +subsisted chiefly upon a nut, called <i>abee</i>. +</p> +<p> +Finding themselves fatigued, they now took +to their boat, and in the evening landed on an +island named Otooareite; being in want of some +refreshment, Mr. Banks went into the woods +to try what he could obtain, but it being dark, +he met with no inhabitants and but one house, +in which he found only a bread-fruit, and a few +of the nuts before-mentioned; nor were they +more successful in procuring provisions the next +morning. +</p> +<p> +Towards the southermost part of the island +they found a good harbour, formed by a reef, +<span class='pagenum'>252</span>and the circumjacent country is remarkably +fruitful. At about three miles distant they landed, +at a place where they found several of the +natives, with whom they were intimately acquainted. +After having, with a good deal of +difficulty, obtained some cocoa-nuts, they again +embarked. +</p> +<p> +They landed again a little further to the east. +Mathiabo, the Chief, with whom they had no +acquaintance, nor had ever seen before, soon +came to them, and supplied them with cocoa-nuts +and bread-fruit. They also purchased a +hog of him for a glass bottle, which he took in +preference to every other thing that was offered +him. They saw here a turkey cock and +a goose which the Dolphin left on the island, +they were remarkably fat, and seemed to be +greatly admired by the Indians. +</p> +<p> +A very uncommon sight presented itself in a +house near this place, several human jaw-bones +were fastened to a board of a semicircular form; +they seemed fresh, and had not lost any of their +teeth; but Mr. Banks could obtain no explanation +of this mystery. Upon their quitting +the place, the Chief accompanied them, and +piloted them over the shoals. They opened the +bay in the evening, on the north-west side of +the island, which corresponded with that on the +south-east, in such a manner, as to intersect the +island at the isthmus. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>253</span>Several canoes came off here with some very +beautiful women, who appeared to be desirous +of their going on shore, to which they readily +assented. They met with a very friendly reception +from the Chief, whose name was Wiverou, +who gave directions to some of his people to assist +them in dressing their provisions, which were +now very plentiful, and they supped at Wiverou’s +house, in company with Mathiabo. Part +of the house was allotted for them to sleep in, +and soon after supper they retired to rest. Mathiabo +having obtained a cloak from Mr. Banks, +under pretence of using it as a cover-let when he +lay down, immediately made off with it, unperceived +by that gentleman or his companions. +News however of the robbery was soon brought +them by one of the natives; in consequence of +which intelligence they sat out in pursuit of the +thief, but had proceeded a very little way before +they were met by a person bringing back the +cloak, which Mathiabo had given up through +fear. +</p> +<p> +The house, upon their return, was entirely +deserted, and about four in the morning the +centinel gave the alarm, that the boat was missing. +Mr. Banks and the Captain were greatly +astonished at this account, and ran to the water-side, +but though the morning was clear and star-light, +no boat was visible. Their situation was +now extremely terrifying: the party consisting +of but four, with a single musket and two +<span class='pagenum'>254</span>pocket pistols, without a spare ball or a charge +of powder. After remaining in this distressful +state of anxiety for a considerable time, dreading +the advantage the Indians would take of it, +to their great joy, the boat, which had been +driven away by the tide, returned; Mr. Banks +and his companions no sooner breakfasted than +they departed. This place is situated on the +north side of Tiarrabou, the south-east peninsula +of the island, about five miles east from +the isthmus, with a harbour equal to any in the +island. It was fertile and populous, and the inhabitants +every where behaved with civility. +The last district in Tiarrabou, in which they +landed, was governed by a Chief, named +Omoe. He was building a house, and was very +desirous of purchasing a hatchet, but Mr. +Banks and the Captain had not one left. He +would not trade for nails, and they embarked; +the Chief following them in a canoe with his +wife, in hopes of obtaining something useful +to him. The Chief and his wife were afterwards +taken on board, and after having gone +about three miles, they desired to be put on +shore, and their request was complied with, +when the Captain met with some of Omoe’s +people, who had brought with them a very +large hog. The Chief agreed to exchange the +hog for a large axe and a nail, and to bring the +beast to the fort in Port Royal Bay. This resolution +he came to after consulting with his wife; +<span class='pagenum'>255</span>and Mr. Banks judged the exchange to be very +advantageous to the English, as the hog was a +remarkable fine one. +</p> +<p> +At this place they saw one of their Eatuas, +or Gods, it was made of wicker-work, and resembled +the figure of a man; it was near seven +feet in height, and was covered with black and +white feathers; on the head were four protuberances, +which the natives called <i>Tate ete</i>, or +little men. +</p> +<p> +Having taken their leave of Omoe, they set +out on their return; after rowing a few miles, +they went on shore again, but saw nothing remarkable +except a sepulchral building, which +was ornamented in an extraordinary manner. +The pavement, on which was built a pyramid, +was very neat; at a little distance there was an +image of stone, very uncouthly carved, which +the natives seemed to hold in a great estimation. +</p> +<p> +They passed through the harbour, which was +the only one fit for shipping, on the south of +Opoureonu, situated about five miles to the +westward of the isthmus, between two small +islands not far from shore, and within a mile of +each other. They were now near the district, +named Paparra, which was governed by Oamo +and Oberea, where they intended to spend the +night. Mr. Banks and his company landed +about an hour before it was dark, and found +that they were both set out to pay them a visit +at the fort. They nevertheless slept at the house +<span class='pagenum'>256</span>of Oberea, which, though not large, was very +neat; no inhabitant but her father was now in +possession of it, who shewed them much civility. +They took this opportunity of walking out +to a point, upon which they had observed, at a +distance, some trees, called Etoa, which usually +grow on the burial-places of these people. +They call these burying-grounds Morai, which +are also places of worship. They here saw an +immense edifice, which they found to be the +Morai of Oamo and Oberea, which was by far +the most considerable piece of architecture to +be found in the island. +</p> +<p> +It consisted of an enormous pile of stone +work, raised in the form of a pyramid, with a +flight of steps on each side, something after the +manner of those little buildings, which are commonly +erected in England to place the pillars +of sun dials upon; it was near two hundred +and seventy feet long, and about one-third as +wide, and between forty and fifty feet high. +</p> +<figure class='max100' style='width: 49em;'> +<img src="images/275.jpg" class="w100 v_align_b" alt=""> +<figcaption><i>A Morai, or Burial Place.</i></figcaption> +</figure> +<p> +The foundation consisted of rock-stones, the +steps of coral, and the upper part of round +pebbles, all of the same shape and size; the +rock and coral-stones were squared with the utmost +neatness and regularity, and the whole +building appeared as compact and firm, as if it +had been erected by the best workmen in Europe. +As the Indians were totally destitute of +iron utensils to shape their stones, as well as +mortar to cement them, when they had made +<span class='pagenum'>257</span>them fit for use, a structure of such heighth +and magnitude, must have been a work of infinite +labour and fatigue. +</p> +<p> +In the center of the summit was the representation +of a bird, carved in wood; close to +this was the figure of a fish; which was in stone. +This pyramid made part of one side of a wide +court or square, the sides of which were +nearly equal; the whole was walled in, and +paved with flat stones. Within this place grew +(notwithstanding it was in this manner paved) +several plantains, and trees which the natives +call Etoa. At a little distance to the west of +this edifice was another paved square, which +contained several small stages, called by the +natives Ewattas, which appeared to be altars; +upon them they place provisions, as sacrifices +to their gods: Mr. Banks afterwards observed +whole hogs placed upon these ewattas, or altars. +</p> +<p> +The inhabitants of the island of Otaheite +seem in nothing so desirous of excelling each +other as in the grandeur and magnificence of +their sepulchres; and the rank and authority of +Oberea was forcibly evinced upon this occasion. +The gentlemen of the Endeavour, it has been +observed, did not find Oberea possessed of the +same power, as when the Dolphin was at this +place, and they were now informed of the +cause. The way from her house to the Morai, +was by the sea-side, and they observed, in all +places as they passed along, a great number of +<span class='pagenum'>258</span>human bones. Inquiry being made into the +cause of this extraordinary sight, they were informed, +that about four or five months before +Captain Cook’s arrival, the inhabitants of Tiarrabou, +the peninsula to the south-east, made +a descent here, and slew many of the people, +whose bones were those that were seen upon the +coast: that hereupon Oberea and Oamo, who +then held the government for his son, had fled +and taken refuge in the mountains; and that +the victors destroyed all the houses, and pillaged +the country. Mr. Banks was also informed, +that the turkey and goose which he had seen in +the district of Mathiabo, were among the booty; +this afforded a reason for their being found +where the Dolphin had little or no correspondence; +and the jaw-bones, being mentioned, +which had been seen hanging in a house, he was +informed, that they had likewise been carried +off as trophies. The jaw-bones of their enemies +being considered by the natives of this +island, as great a mark of triumph, as scalps +are by the Indians of North America. +</p> +<p> +On Friday the 30th they arrived at Otahourou, +where their old acquaintance Tootahah +resided; he received them with great civility, +and provided for them a good supper, and a +convenient lodging; and notwithstanding they +were so shamefully plundered the last time, they +slept with this chief. They spent the night in +<span class='pagenum'>259</span>the utmost security, none of their cloaths, or any +other article, being missing in the morning. +</p> +<p> +On Saturday, July 1, they returned to the fort +at Port Royal Harbour; having discovered the +island, both peninsulas included, to be about +one hundred miles in circumference. They +were now very much in want of bread-fruit, +owing to the scarcity of the season, and could +obtain but a very small quantity upon their +whole tour. +</p> +<p> +Their Indian friends crouded about them upon +their return, and none of them came without +provisions. +</p> +<p> +Monday the 3d, Mr. Banks made an excursion, +with some Indian guides, to trace the river +up the valley to its source, and observe to +what extent its banks were inhabited. After +meeting with houses for the space of six miles, +they came up to one which was said to be the +last that could be seen. The master of it presented +them with cocoa-nuts and other fruits; +and after a short visit, they continued their walk. +In this tour they often passed under vaults, formed +by rocky fragments, in which, they were informed, +that those who were benighted often +took refuge. They pursued the course of the +river for about five or six miles further, and +found it banked on both sides by rocks which +were almost perpendicular, and near one hundred +feet high, notwithstanding which, a way +was to be traced up these dreadful precipices, +<span class='pagenum'>260</span>and their Indian guides offered to conduct them +by this path to the summit; but as it could not +be effected without the utmost difficulty and +danger, and there appeared nothing at the top +to recompence them for the fatigue and hazard +of the undertaking, they declined attempting it. +</p> +<p> +Mr. Banks during this tour had a fine opportunity +of searching for minerals among the +rocks, which were almost, on all sides, naked; +he found, however, not the smallest appearance +of any kind of mineral. The stones every +where resembling those of Madeira, gave manifest +signs of having been burnt. Scarce a +single stone was found during their whole stay +upon the island, which had not unquestionable +marks of fire on it, except the hatchet stone, +and some of these were not entirely free from +it. There are also evident traces of fire in the +clay upon the hills, both of this and the neighbouring +islands. +</p> +<p> +Mr. Banks was engaged the 4th in planting +on each side of the fort a great quantity of the +seeds of water-melons, oranges, lemons, limes, +and other plants and trees which he had brought +from Rio de Janeiro. He gave of these seeds +to the Indians in great plenty, and planted +many of them in the woods: some of the melon-seeds, +which had been planted soon after his arrival, +had already produced plants which appeared +to be in a very flourishing state. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>261</span>They now began to make preparations for +their departure; but before they set sail they +had another visit from Oamo, Oberea, and +their son and daughter. The young woman, +whose name they understood to be <i>Toimata</i>, +was very curious to see the fort, but Oamo +would by no means permit her to come in. +The son of Waheatua, sovereign of Tiarrabou, +or the south-east peninsula, was also here at this +time; and they received intelligence of the arrival +of another guest, whose company they +neither wished for nor expected; this was the +Indian who had stolen the quadrant. +</p> +<p> +On Friday the 7th, the carpenters were ordered +to take down the gates and pallisadoes of +the fort, to be converted into firewood on board +the Endeavour; and one of the Indians stole +the staple and hook belonging to the gate: he +was instantly pursued; but could not be found; +and soon after this, their old friend Tubora +Tumaida brought back the staple. +</p> +<p> +They continued on the 8th and 9th to pull +down the fort, and their friends still visited them. +</p> +<p> +Captain Cook hoped now to quit the island, +without any farther misunderstanding with the +natives; but in this he was mistaken. Two +foreign sailors having been out, one of them +was robbed of his knife, and striving to recover +it, the Indians attacked and wounded him +in a dangerous manner with a stone; his companion +also received a slight wound in the head. +<span class='pagenum'>262</span>As Captain Cook would have been unwilling to +have taken farther notice of the transaction, +he was not sorry that the offenders had made +their escape. Another affair equally disagreeable +soon after happened. Between the 8th and +9th in the evening; two young marines retired +secretly from the fort, and in the morning were +not to be met with. Notice having been given +for all the company to go on board the next +day, and that the ship would sail that day or +the day ensuing, Captain Cook began to fear +that the marines intended to remain on shore. +He was apprised, that no effectual steps could +be taken to recover them, without risking the +harmony and good fellowship which at present +subsisted between the English and the natives; +and therefore resolved to wait a day in hopes +of their returning. +</p> +<p> +The 10th in the morning the marines not +being returned, an enquiry was made after them, +when the Indians declared they did not propose +returning, having taken refuge in the mountains, +where it was impossible to discover them, +and that each had taken a wife. In consequence +of which it was intimated to several of the Chiefs +who were in the fort with their women, among +whom were Tubora Tumaida, Tomio and +Oberea, that they would not be suffered to +quit it till the deserters were produced. Captain +Cook thought this precaution necessary, as, by +concealing them a short time, he might be compelled +<span class='pagenum'>263</span>to go without them; they received the +intimation with very little signs either of fear +or discontent, assuring the Captain that the marines +should be sent back. In the interim he +sent Mr. Hicks in the pinnace to bring Tootahah +on board the ship, which he executed without +giving any alarm. Night coming on, +Captain Cook judged it was not prudent to let +the people, whom he had detained as hostages, +remain at the fort, and he therefore ordered +Tubora Tumaida, Oberea, and some others, +to be brought on board. This gave an unusual +alarm, and several of them, especially the females, +testified their apprehensions with great +agitation of mind, and floods of tears, when +they were coming on board. Captain Cook +went on board with them, Mr. Banks remaining +on shore with some others, whom he thought +it of less importance to detain. +</p> +<p> +One of the marines was brought back in the +evening by some of the Indians, who reported, +that the other, and the two people who were +sent to fetch them back, would be detained +whilst Tootahah was confined. Mr. Hicks was +immediately dispatched in the long-boat, with +several men, to rescue the English prisoners; at +the same time Captain Cook told Tootahah, +that it was incumbent on him to assist them with +some of his people, and to give orders, in his +name, that the men should be set at liberty, +for that he should expect him to answer for the +<span class='pagenum'>264</span>event. Tootahah immediately complied, and +this party recovered the men without any opposition. +About seven in the morning on the +11th they returned, but without the arms which +had been taken from them when they were made +prisoners: the arms were however brought on +board soon after, and the Chiefs were allowed +to return on shore. +</p> +<p> +At the time the Chiefs were set on shore from +the ship, those at the fort were also released, +and after remaining with Mr. Banks about an +hour and a half, they all returned to their respective +places of residence. When the deserters +were examined, it was discovered, that +the account which the Indians had given was +no way false: they had become fond of two +girls, and it was their design to keep themselves +concealed till the ship had let sail, and continue +upon the island. +</p> +<p> +Tupia, whose name has been often mentioned +in this voyage, had been prime minister of +Oberea, when she was at the pinnacle of her +authority: he was also the principal priest of +the island, and therefore intimately acquainted +with the religion of the country. He was likewise +deeply versed in navigation, and was thoroughly +acquainted with the number, situation, +inhabitants and produce of the adjacent islands. +He had often testified a desire to go with them; +and on Wednesday the 12th, in the morning, +he came on board, with a boy about twelve +<span class='pagenum'>265</span>years of age, his servant, named Taiyota, and +requested the gentlemen on board, to let him +go with them. As it was thought he would +be useful to them in many particulars, they +unanimously agreed to comply with his request. +Tupia then went ashore for the last time to +see his friends, and took with him several baubles +to give them as parting tokens of remembrance. +</p> +<p> +Mr. Banks being willing to obtain a drawing +of the Morai, in possession of Tootahah, at +Eparre, Captain Cook accompanied him thither +in the pinnace, together with Dr. Solander. +They immediately, upon landing, repaired to +Tootahah’s house, where they were met by +Oberea, and several others. A general good +understanding prevailed, and they promised to +visit the gentlemen early the next day, to take +leave of them, as they were told that the ship +would then set sail. There also they met Tupia, +who came back with them, and slept for the first +time on board the ship. +</p> +<p> +Thursday the 13th of July, the ship was visited +by a multitude of the gentlemen’s friends, +and surrounded by numberless canoes, which +contained the inferior natives. They weighed +anchor about twelve, and the Indians took their +leaves of the gentlemen on board, weeping in +a friendly and affecting manner. Tupia supported +himself in this scene with a becoming +fortitude, tears flowed from his eyes, its true, +<span class='pagenum'>266</span>but the effort that he made to conceal them +did him additional honour. He went with Mr. +Banks to the mast-head, where he continued +waving his hand to the canoes as long as they remained +visible. +</p> +<p> +The longitude of Port Royal Bay, as settled +by Captain Wallis, was found to be within half +a degree of its real situation. Point Venus, +the northern extremity of the island, and the +eastern point of the bay, lies in the longitude +149 degrees 30 minutes. Port Royal Bay, +which is equal to any in Otaheite, may easily +be discovered by a remarkable high mountain +in the center of the island, bearing due south +from Point Venus. The shore of the bay is a +fine sandy beach, behind which runs a river of +fresh water; any number of ships may water +here without any inconvenience to each other. +The only wood for firing, upon the whole island, +is that of fruit-trees, which must be purchased +of the natives, or it is impossible to live upon +good terms with them. +</p> +<p> +According to Tupia’s account, the island +could furnish above six thousand fighting men, +whereby a computation of the number of inhabitants +may easily be made. +</p> +<p> +The produce of Otaheite is bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, +bananas, plantains; a fruit not unlike +an apple, potatoes, yams, cocoas, sugar-cane, +and a variety of other fruits and vegetables. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>267</span>They have no European fruits, garden stuff, +or pulse, nor grain of any species. Their tame +animals are hogs, dogs, and poultry; there is +not a wild animal in the island, except ducks, +pigeons, parroquets, and a few other birds; +rats being the only quadruped, and there are +no serpents. The sea however supplies them +with great variety of excellent fish. +</p> +<p> +With regard to the people, they are in general +rather of a larger make than Europeans. +The males are tall, robust, and finely shaped. +The females of the superior class are likewise +generally above our common size; but those +of the lower rank are rather below it, and some +of them are remarkably little. +</p> +<p> +Their natural complexion is a fine clear olive, +or what we call <i>brunette</i>, their skin is delicately +smooth and agreeably soft. The shape of +their faces is in general handsome, and their +eyes are full of sensibility and expression, their +teeth are likewise remarkably white and regular, +and their breath intirely free from any disagreeable +smell; their hair is for the most part +black. The men, unlike the original inhabitants +of America, have long beards, which +they wear in various forms; and what is very +remarkable, circumcision is almost universally +practised among them, from a motive of cleanliness; +having a peculiar term of reproach, +with which they upbraid those who do not adopt +this custom. Both sexes always eradicate the +<span class='pagenum'>268</span>hair from their arm-pits, and they often reproached +the English gentlemen with a want of +cleanliness, for not making use of the same +method. Their motions are easy and graceful, +but not vigorous; their deportment is generous +and open, and their behaviour affable and +courteous. They appeared of a brave, noble, +and candid disposition; equally strangers to the +base and unworthy passions of cruelty, treachery, +or revenge, and setting aside their violent +prepensity to thieving, it may fairly be +said, that their general characters would lose +nothing in the comparison with those of the +most civilized nation under the globe. +</p> +<p> +Contrary to the custom of almost all other +countries, the women of this island cut their +hair quite short, whereas the men wear it long, +sometimes hanging loose on their shoulders, +and at others tied in a knot on the crown of +their heads, in which they stick the feathers of +birds of various colours. +</p> +<p> +Both sexes frequently wear a piece of cloth +of the manufacture of the island tied round +their heads in the form of a turban; and the +women take no little pains in plaiting human +hair into long strings, which being folded into +branches, are tied on their foreheads by way of +ornament. +</p> +<p> +There is a custom likewise prevalent among +them of anointing their heads with an oil extracted +from the cocoa-nut. The smell of +<span class='pagenum'>269</span>which is not altogether agreeable, as the climate +is hot, and they are not provided with any +thing similar to a comb, their heads are not +clear from vermin: it evidently appeared, however, +to be more the effect of necessity than inclination, +as those to whom they gave combs +immediately got rid of these disagreeable companions. +</p> +<p> +They stain their bodies, by indenting or +pricking the flesh with a small instrument made +of bone, cut into short teeth; which indentures +they fill with a dark blue or blackish mixture, +prepared from the smoke of an oily nut, burnt +by them instead of candles and water; this +operation, which is called by the natives Tattaowing, +is exceedingly painful, and leaves an +indelible mark on the skin. It is usually performed +when they are about ten or twelve years +of age, and on different parts of the body; +but those which suffer most severely are the +breech and the loins, which are marked with +arches, carried one above another a considerable +way up their backs. +</p> +<p> +At the operation of <i>Tattaowing</i>, performed +upon the posteriors of a girl about twelve years +of age, Mr. Banks was present, it was executed +with an instrument that had twenty +teeth, and at each stroke, which was repeated +every moment, serum mixed with blood issued. +She bore it with great resolution for several minutes; +but at length the pain became so violent, +<span class='pagenum'>270</span>that she murmured and complained, and +then burst into the most violent lamentations; +but her operator was inexorable, whilst some +females present chid, and even beat her. Mr. +Banks was a spectator for near an hour, during +which time it was performed only on one side, +the other having undergone the ceremony sometime +before; and the arches upon the loins, +which are the most painful, but upon which +they the most pique themselves, were yet to be +made. +</p> +<p> +They cloath themselves in cloth and matting +of various kinds; the first they wear in fair, +the latter in wet weather. They are in different +forms, no shape being preserved in them, +nor are the pieces sewed together. The women +of a superior class wear three or four pieces; +one, which is of considerable length, they wrap +several times round their waists, and it falls +down to the middle of the leg. Two or three +other short pieces, with a hole cut in the middle +of each, are placed on one another, and +their heads coming through the holes, the long +ends hang before and behind, both sides being +open, by which means they have the free use of +their arms. +</p> +<figure class='max100' style='width: 30em;'> +<img src="images/290.jpg" class="w100 v_align_b" alt=""> +<figcaption><i>A Woman & Boy, of the new discovered Islands, in the Dress of the Country.</i></figcaption> +</figure> +<p> +The mens dress is very similar, differing only in +one instance, which is that part of the garment instead +of falling below the knees, is brought between +the legs. This dress is worn by all ranks +of people, the only distinction being quantity in +<span class='pagenum'>271</span>the superior class. At noon both sexes appear +almost naked, wearing only the piece of cloth +that is tied round the waist. Their faces are +shaded from the sun with small bonnets, made +of cocoa-nut leaves or matting which are constructed +in a few minutes. The men sometimes +wear a sort of wig, made of human or +dogs hair, or of cocoa-nut strings, woven on +a single thread, which is fastened under their +hair, and hangs down behind. Both men and +women wear ear-rings on one side, consisting of +shells, stones, berries, or small pearls; but they +soon gave the preference to the beads, brought +by the Endeavour’s company. +</p> +<p> +The boys and girls go quite naked; the first +till they are seven or eight years old; the latter +till they are about five. Their houses, which +have been described already, they seldom use +but to sleep in, or to avoid the rain, as they +eat in the open air, under the shade of a tree. +Their clothes serve them at night for covering, +and there are no divisions or apartments. The +master and his wife repose in the middle, then +the married people; next to these the unmarried +females, and at a small distance the men +who are unmarried; and the servants sleep in +the open air in fair weather. The houses of the +Chiefs, however, differ in some degree; there +are some very small, and so built as to be carried +in canoes: all sides of them are inclosed +with the leaves of the cocoa-nut; the air, nevertheless, +<span class='pagenum'>272</span>penetrates, in these the Chief and his +wife alone sleep. There are also houses which +are general receptacles for the inhabitants of a +district. These are much larger, many being +more than two hundred feet in length, forty in +breadth, and seventy or eighty feet high. They +are constructed at the common expence, and +have an area on one side surrounded with low +pallisades; but like the others have no walls. +</p> +<p> +When a Chief kills a hog, which is but seldom, +he divides it equally among his vassals; +dogs and fowls are more common. +</p> +<p> +When the bread-fruit in not in season, they +are supplied by cocoa-nuts, bananas, plantains, +&c. +</p> +<p> +Their cookery consists chiefly of baking, the +manner of doing which has been already described. +They bake their bread-fruit in the same +way, which renders it something like a mealy +potatoe; of this fruit three dishes are made, by +beating it to a paste, and mixing it with bananas, +plantains, or the sour paste, which the +natives nominate <i>Mahie</i>. +</p> +<p> +This paste is made by taking bread-fruit, +which is not thoroughly ripe, and laying it in +heaps, covered with leaves, by which means it +ferments, the core is then taken out, and the +fruit put into a hole lined with grass; it is then +again covered with leaves, upon which large +stones are placed; this produces a second fermentation, +after which it grows sour, and undergoes +<span class='pagenum'>273</span>no change for a long time; they take +it from this hole as they have occasion for it, +and making it into balls, it is rolled up in plantain-leaves +and baked; as it will keep for some +weeks after it is dressed, they eat it both hot +and cold. +</p> +<p> +Such is the food of these people, their sauce +to which never consists of any thing but salt +water. As to their drink, it is generally confined +to water, or the milk of the cocoa nuts, +though there were instances in which some of +them drank so freely of the English liquors, +as to become quite intoxicated; this, however, +seemed to proceed more from ignorance than +design, as they were never known to repeat +a debauch of this kind a second time. They +were told indeed that the Chiefs sometimes became +inebriated by drinking the juice of a +plant called <i>Ava</i>, but of this they saw no instance +during the time they remained on the island. +</p> +<p> +The Chiefs generally eat alone, unless when +visited by a stranger, who is sometimes permitted +to become a second in their mess; having +nothing to supply the want of a table; they +sit on the ground in the shade; leaves of trees +being spread before them serve as a table-cloth; +their attendants, who are numerous, having +placed a basket by the Chiefs, containing their +provisions, and a cocoa-nut shell of fresh and salt +water, seat themselves round them; they then +begin by washing their mouth and hands, after +<span class='pagenum'>274</span>which they eat a mouthful of bread-fruit and +fish, dipt in salt water alternately, till the whole +is consumed, taking a sup of salt water likewise +between almost every morsel. The bread-fruit +and fish being all eaten, they next have either +plantains or apples, which they never eat without +being pared. During this time a soft paste +is prepared from the bread-fruit, which they +sup out of a cocoa-nut shell; this finishes the +meal, and the hands and mouth are again washed +as at the beginning. +</p> +<p> +It is astonishing how much food they eat at +a meal; Mr. Banks and some other gentlemen +were present when one man devoured three fish +the size of a middling carp, four bread fruits as +large as a common melon, thirteen or fourteen +plantains seven or eight inches long, and above +half as big round, and about a quart of the +paste made of bread-fruit. +</p> +<p> +It is not a little surprizing, that the inhabitants +of this island, who seemed exceedingly +sensible of the pleasures of society, should have +an universal aversion to the least intercourse +with each other at their meals, and so rigid are +they in the observance of this unusual custom, +that even brothers and sisters have their separate +baskets to contain their provisions, and generally +sit some yards distance when they eat, with +their backs turned towards each other, not exchanging +a single word during the whole time +of their repast; the middle aged of superior +<span class='pagenum'>275</span>rank usually betake themselves to sleep after +dinner, but what is remarkable, the older people +are not so lazy; music, dancing, wrestling, +and shooting with the bow, or throwing a lance, +constitute a chief part of their diversions. +</p> +<p> +Flutes which have been mentioned before, +and drums, are the only musical instruments +among them; their drums are formed of a circular +piece of wood, hollow at one end only, +which is covered with the skin of a shark, and they +are beaten with the hand instead of a stick. Their +songs are extempore, and frequently in rhime, +but consist of only two lines; these couplets +are often sung by way of evening amusements, +between sun-set and bed-time, during which +time they are not destitute of lights, having +candles which they make of an oily nut, fixing +them one above another, upon a small stick +run through the middle; some of these candles +burn a long time, and afford a pretty good light. +</p> +<p> +Among their other amusements, they have +a dance named <i>Timorodee</i>, which is performed +by ten or a dozen young females, who put +themselves into the most wanton attitudes that +can possibly be imagined, keeping time during +the performance with the greatest nicety and exactness, +from these dances the women are immediately +excluded on their becoming pregnant. +</p> +<p> +Many of the principal people of this island, +of each sex, have united into an association, in +which no woman confines her favours to any +<span class='pagenum'>276</span>particular man; in this manner they obtain a +perpetual variety, no one object ever gratifying +them but a few days. +</p> +<p> +These societies are named <i>Arreoy</i>, the members +of which have meetings where the men +amuse themselves by wrestling; and notwithstanding +the frequent intercourse which the women +have with a variety of men, they dance +the <i>Timorodee</i> in such a manner, as they imagine +will most excite the desires of the male sex, +and which are often gratified upon the spot. +There are yet much worse practices. In case +any of the women prove with child, which in +this manner of life seldom happens, they destroy +the helpless infant as soon as it is brought into +the world, that it may not be a burden to the father, +nor interrupt the mother in the pursuit of +her lascivious amusements. Natural affection, +however, for the child sometimes happily produces +a reformation in the mother, but when +this happens, the child’s life is always forfeited, +unless the mother can procure a man to adopt +it as his child, in which case this inhuman murder +is prevented, but both the man and woman +are for ever expelled this society. The woman +being particularized by the appellation of +<i>Whannownow</i>, “bearer of children”, which +among these people, is considered as a term of +the greatest reproach. +</p> +<p> +Their personal cleanliness is an object that +merits peculiar attention. Both sexes never +<span class='pagenum'>277</span>omit to wash with water three times a day; +when they rise, at noon, and before they go to +rest. They also keep their cloaths extremely +clean; so that in the largest communities no +disagreeable effluvia ever arises, nor is there any +other inconvenience than heat. +</p> +<p> +The chief manufacture of Otaheite is cloth; +of this cloth there are three different sorts, +which are made of the bark of as many different +trees, viz. the mulberry, the bread-fruit, +and a tree not very unlike the wild fig-tree, +which is found in some parts of the West Indies. +The mulberry-tree, which the Indians call <i>Aouta</i>, +produces the finest cloth, which is seldom worn +but by those of the first rank. The next sort, +which is worn by the lower class of people, is +made of the bread-fruit tree, and the coarsest +of the tree resembling the fig-tree. This +last sort, though more useful than the two former +on account of its keeping out water, which +neither of the others will, is exceedingly scarce, +being manufactured but in small quantities. +</p> +<p> +The same method is used in manufacturing +these three cloths, notwithstanding they are all +different; a description therefore of their manner +of making one, will suffice for the whole. +</p> +<p> +Having stript off the bark of the trees, it is +soaked in water for two or three days, they then +take it out and separate the inner bark from the +external coat, by scraping it with a shell, after +which it is spread out on plantain-leaves, placing +<span class='pagenum'>278</span>two or three layers one over another, and +taking care to make it of an equal thickness +in every part; it continues in this state till it is +nearly dry, when it adheres together so firmly, +that it may be taken from the ground without +breaking. After this process it is laid on a +smooth board, and beaten with an instrument +made for that purpose, of a compact heavy +wood, called by the natives <i>Etoa</i>. This instrument +is about fourteen inches long, and seven in +circumference; it is of a quadrangular shape, +and each of the four sides is marked with longitudinal +grooves or furrows, differing in this +instance, that there is a regular gradation in the +width and depth of the grooves on each of the +sides, the coarser side containing not more than +ten of these furrows, and the finest above sixty. +</p> +<p> +They begin to beat their cloth with that side +of the mallet where the grooves are deepest +and widest, and proceeding regularly with the +others, finish with that which has the greatest +number; by this beating it is extended in a +manner similar to the gold which is formed into +leaves by the hammer, and is marked with +an appearance of little channels, not unlike +those which are visible on paper, but rather +deeper; it is in general beat very thin, and +when they want it thicker than common, they +take two or three pieces and paste them together +with a kind of glue, prepared from a +root called <i>Pea</i>. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>279</span>This cloth becomes exceedingly white by +bleaching, and is died of a red, yellow, brown, +or black colour: the first of which is exceedingly +beautiful, and equal, if not superior, to +any in Europe. They make this red colour +from a mixture of the juices of two vegetables, +neither of which used separately has this effect. +</p> +<p> +Matting of various kinds is another considerable +manufacture, in which they excel, in many +respects, the Europeans. They make use +of the coarser sort to sleep on, and in wet weather +they wear the finer. +</p> +<p> +They greatly excel in the basket and wicker-work; +both men and women employ themselves +at it, and can make it of a great number of different +patterns. +</p> +<p> +They make ropes and lines of all sizes of the +bark of the <i>poerou</i>, and their nets for fishing +are made of these lines: the fibres of the cocoa-nut +they make thread of, such as they use +to fasten together the several parts of their canoes; +the forms of which are various, according +to the use to which they are applied. +</p> +<p> +Their fishing-lines are esteemed the best in the +world, made of the bark of the <i>Erowa</i>, a kind +of nettle which grows on the mountains; they +are strong enough to hold the heaviest and most +vigorous fish, such as bonetas and albicores; +in short, they are extremely ingenious in every +expedient for taking all kinds of fish. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>280</span>The tools which these people make use of +for building houses, constructing canoes, hewing +stone, and for felling, cleaving, carving and +polishing timber, consist of nothing more than +an adze of stone, and a chissel of bone, most +commonly that of a man’s arm; and for a file +or polisher, they make use of a rasp of coral, +and coral sand. +</p> +<p> +The blades of their adzes are extremely tough, +but not very hard; they make them of various +sizes, those for felling weigh six or seven pounds; +and others which are used for carving, only a +few ounces; they are obliged, every minute, +to sharpen them on a stone, which is always +kept near them for that purpose. +</p> +<p> +The most difficult task they meet with in the +use of these tools, is the felling of a tree, +which employs a great number of hands for several +days together. +</p> +<p> +The tree which is in general use is called +<i>Avie</i>, the stem of which is strait and tall. Some +of their smaller boats are made of the bread-fruit +tree, which is wrought without much difficulty, +being of a light spongy nature. Instead +of planes, they use their adzes with great +dexterity. Their canoes are all shaped with the +hand, the Indians not being acquainted with the +method of warping a plank. +</p> +<p> +They have two kinds of canoes, one they +call <i>Ivahahs</i>, the other <i>Pahies</i>; the former is +used for short voyages at sea, and the latter for +<span class='pagenum'>281</span>longer ones. These boats do not differ either in +shape or size; but they are in no degree proportionate, +being from sixty or seventy feet to +ten in length, and not more than the thirtieth +part in breadth. Some are employed in going +from one island to another, and others used for +fishing. There is also the Ivahah, which serves +for fighting; these are by far the longest, and +the head and stern are considerably raised above +the body. These Ivahahs are fastened together, +side by side when they go to sea, at the distance +of a few feet, by strong wooden poles, which +are laid across them and joined to each side. +A stage or platform is raised on the fore-part +about ten or twelve feet long; upon which +stand the fighting men, whose missile weapons +are slings and spears. Beneath these stages the +rowers sit, who supply the place of those who +are wounded. +</p> +<p> +The fishing Ivahahs are from thirty or forty +to ten feet in length; and those for travelling +have a small house fixed on board, which is fastened +upon the fore-part, for the better accommodation +of persons of rank, who occupy them +both day and night. +</p> +<p> +The Pahies differ also in size, being from sixty +to seventy feet long, they are likewise very +narrow, and are sometimes used for fighting, but +chiefly for long voyages. In going from one +island to another, they sometimes are out a +month, and often at sea a fortnight or twenty +<span class='pagenum'>282</span>days, and if they had convenience to stow more +provisions, they could stay out much longer. +</p> +<p> +These vessels are very useful in landing, and +putting off from the shore in a surf; for by +their great length and high sterns they landed +dry, when the Endeavour’s boats could scarcely +land at all. +</p> +<p> +They are very curious in the construction of +these boats, the chief parts or pieces whereof +are formed separately without either saw, plane, +chissel, or any other iron tool, which renders +their fabrication more surprizing and worthy observation. +</p> +<p> +These parts being prepared, the keel is fixed +upon blocks, and the planks are supported with +props, till they are sewed or joined together +with strong plaited thongs, which are passed +several times through holes bored with a chissel +of bone, such as they usually make use of; and +when finished, they are sufficiently tight without +caulking. +</p> +<p> +They keep these boats with great care in a +kind of shed, built on purpose to contain them. +</p> +<p> +Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were at a loss to +find out their method of dividing time; they +always made use of the term <i>Malama</i>, which +signifies moon, whenever they spoke of time, +either past or to come; they reckon thirteen +of these moons, beginning again when they are +expired. This proves that they have some idea +of the solar year; but these gentlemen could +<span class='pagenum'>283</span>not discover how they computed their months, +so as to make thirteen of them equal to the +year; for the natives say, that their month consists +of twenty-nine days, one day, in which the +moon is invisible, being included. They knew +the fruits that would be in season, and even the +prevailing weather of the months to come. +</p> +<p> +They divide the day into twelve parts, each +consisting of two hours, six belonging to the +day, and the other six to the night. They +reckon from one to ten when they numerate, +making use of their fingers, and changing hands +till they come to the number which they intend +to express, and in conversation they joined +signs to their words, which were remarkably +expressive of their meaning. +</p> +<p> +They are not so expert in measuring distances, +as in computing numbers; for when they speak +of the distance from one place to another, they +are obliged to express it by the time that would +be taken to pass it. +</p> +<p> +Their language is soft and musical, abounds +with vowels, and is easy to be pronounced. +But whether it is copious, Mr. Banks and Dr. +Solander were not sufficiently acquainted with +it to know. As very few either of their nouns +or verbs are declinable, it must consequently be +very imperfect. They found means, however, +to be mutually understood without much difficulty. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>284</span>The following specimen will possibly enable the +reader to form some idea of their language. +</p> +<table class=' margetb'> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Teine,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>a brother</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Tooaheine,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>a sister</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Tane,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>a husband</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Aree,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>a chief</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Midee,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>a child</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Aheine,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>a woman</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Erowroo,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>the head</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Matau,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>the eyes</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Eahoo,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>the nose</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Meyoooo,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>the nails</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Huaheine,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>a wife</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Oowhau,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>the thighs</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Kipoo a meemhee,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>a chamber-pot</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Oorè dehaiya,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>a large nail</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Oorè eeteea,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>a small nail</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Pahiè,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>a ship</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Aihoo,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>a garment</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Parawei,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>a shirt</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Tumatau,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>a bonnet</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Poe,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>ear-rings</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Epanoo,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>a drum</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Toonoah,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>a mole in the skin</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Hooare,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>spittle</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Epeènei,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>an eccho</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Mahana,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>a day</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Poa,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>a night</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Otaowa,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>yesterday</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Aouna,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>to day</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Oboboa,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>to-morrow</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Tatta te Hàmannee Màitài,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>a good-natured person</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Amawhattoo,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>a shrew</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Epehe,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>a song</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Teà,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>white</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Marroowhai,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>dry</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Myty,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>good</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Porai,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>to talk</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Mutee,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>to kiss</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Eàwow,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>to scold</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Emòto,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>to box</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Eei,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>to eat</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Matte roah,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>to die</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Mayneenee,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>to tickle</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Itopa,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>to fall</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Ainao,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>take care</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Eeyo,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>look you</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Neeheeo,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>good night</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Waow,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>I</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Tooanahoe,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>you and I</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Wahaa,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>fire</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pi">Avy,</td> +<td class="al pi"><i>water</i>.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>285</span>In respect to diseases, the natives are seldom +afflicted with any, except sometimes an accidental +fit of the cholic. They are subject to the +erisypelas, attended with cutaneous eruptions, +not unlike the leprosy; and if they have had it +for any time to a certain degree, they are secluded +from all society, and live alone in a small +house, in some unfrequented part of the island. +</p> +<p> +Here the management of the sick falls to the +lot of the priests, and their method of cure consists +chiefly of prayers and ceremonies, which +are repeated till the patients recover or die. If +they recover, they attribute the cure to these remedies; +if they die, like the medical tribe of +this and every other country, they say the disease +was incurable. +</p> +<p> +From their connection with the Europeans, +they have entailed upon themselves that dreadful +curse, the venereal disease; which, upon enquiry, +evidently appeared to have been brought +among them by the vessels under the command +of Mons. Bougainville. It was called by a +name somewhat similar, in meaning, to <i>rottenness</i>, +but of a much stronger import; and they +gave a most shocking account of the sufferings +of those who were first infected with it; telling +them, that their nails and hair fell off, and the +flesh even rotted from their bones: and so greatly +were they terrified at the dreadful effects of this +alarming disease, that the infected person was +forsaken even by his own relations, and left to +<span class='pagenum'>286</span>perish by himself, in such a state of misery and +pain as he had never before experienced. +</p> +<p> +The religion of these people appeared to be +exceedingly mysterious; and as the language +used on the occasion was different from that +spoken in common, they were not able to obtain +much information respecting it, but from +what little they could learn from their friend +Tupia, these Indians seemed to have adopted +strange notions of the creation of the world; +imagining that every thing was derived from +procreation, and the conjunction of two persons. +The supreme Deity, one of these two +first Beings, they call <span class="small-caps">Taroataihetoomoo</span>; +and the other, <span class="small-caps">Tepapa</span>. The year which is called +<span class="small-caps">Tettowmatatayo</span>, is supposed to be the +daughter of the two first. They also imagine, +that there is an inferior race of Deities, whom +they call <span class="small-caps">Eatuas</span>. They say, two of these Eatuas +formerly inhabited the earth, and that the +first man descended from them. +</p> +<p> +They emphatically stile the supreme Being, +the <i>Causer of Earthquakes</i>; but their prayers +are more generally addressed to <i>Tane</i>, supposed +to be a son of the first progenitors of nature. +</p> +<p> +They believe in the existence of the soul in a +separate state, and that there are two situations, +differing in their degrees of happiness, which +they consider as receptacles for different ranks, +but not as places of reward and punishment; +they suppose, that their Chiefs and principal +<span class='pagenum'>287</span>people will have the preference to those of inferior +rank, as they imagine their actions no +way influence their future state, and that their +Deities take no cognizance of them whatsoever. +</p> +<p> +The office of priest is hereditary; there are +several of them, and of all ranks; the Chief +is respected next to their Kings, and they are +superior to the rest of the natives not only in +point of divine knowledge, but also in that of +navigation and astronomy. +</p> +<figure class='max100' style='width: 30em;'> +<img src="images/309.jpg" class="w100 v_align_b" alt=""> +<figcaption><i>A Priest of the New Discovered Islands in the Habit of his Order.</i><br> +<i>Tataowing Instruments.</i><br> +<i>Ornaments for the Ears</i></figcaption> +</figure> +<p> +The priests here are no way concerned with +the ceremony of marriage, it being a simple agreement +between the man and woman; and +when they chuse to separate, it is done with as +little ceremony as that of their marriage. +</p> +<p> +These people do not seem to be any way guilty +of idolatry, as they worship no kind of +images whatever. They enter their morais +with great reverence and humility, and when +they bring their offering to the altar, their body +is uncovered to the waist. +</p> +<p> +There is a subordination among them, that +much resembles the early state of every nation +in Europe under the feudal system, which secured, +to a small number, the most unrestrained +liberty, while the rest were abject slaves. +</p> +<p> +Their ranks or orders are, <i>Earee rahie</i>, which +signifies King; <i>Earee</i>, Baron; <i>Manahouni</i>, Vassal; +and <i>Toutou</i>, Villain. The Earee rahie, of +which there are two, one belonging to each of +the peninsulas of which this island consists, had +<span class='pagenum'>288</span>great respect shewn them by all ranks. The +Earees are Lords of one or more of the districts, +into which each of the peninsulas is divided; +and they separate their territories into lots, which +are given to the <i>Manahounies</i>, who respectively +cultivate that share which they hold under the +baron. But they are only nominal cultivators, +this as well as all other laborious work being +done by the <i>Toutous</i>, or lower class of people. +</p> +<p> +The Sovereign or Earee rahie, and the Baron +or Earee, are succeeded in titles and honours +by their children as soon as they are born, +the fathers being immediately divested of +them; but they remain possessors and managers +of their estates. +</p> +<p> +In case of a general attack upon the island, +every district, under the command of an Earee, +furnishes a proportionate number of fighting +men for the defence of the common cause, and +they are commanded in chief by the Earee rahie.⁠—According +to Tupia’s account, the number +furnished by the principal districts amounted to +six thousand and upwards. +</p> +<p> +Slings, with which they are very dextrous, +pikes headed with stone, and long clubs made of +wood, remarkably hard and heavy, constitute +their weapons. With these they fight with +great obstinacy and cruelty, giving no quarter +to either man, woman or child, if they fall +into their hands in time of battle. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>289</span>During the stay of the Endeavour, there was +a perfect good understanding between the Earee +rahies of the two peninsulas, though the Earee +rahie of Tiarreboo, arrogated to himself the title +of King of the whole island; which the other considered, +as it really was, a mere nominal claim, +and only a feather in his cap. There is nothing +among them substituted for money, or a general +medium, by which every object may be purchased +or procured; neither can any permanent +good be unlawfully obtained by force or fraud; +and the general commerce with women, sets aside +almost every excitement for committing adultery. +In a word, in a government so little polished, +though distributive justice cannot be regularly +administered; as there can at the same +time be but few crimes for the exercise of it, +the want of this justice is not so severely felt, +as it would be in more civilized societies. +</p> +<p> +Thursday July the 13th, after leaving the +island of Otaheite, they sailed with a gentle +breeze and clear weather; and were informed +by Tupia, that four islands, which he called +Huaheine, Ulietea, Otaha, and Bolabola, were +at the distance of about one or two days sail, and +that hogs, fowls, and other refreshments, which +had lately been scarce, were to be got there in +abundance. They accordingly steered their +course in search of these islands, and on Saturday +the 15th, discovered the island of Huaheine; +and on the 16th, in the morning, they +<span class='pagenum'>290</span>sounded near the north-west part of the island, +but found no bottom with seventy fathom. +Several canoes immediately put off, but they +appeared fearful of coming near the ship, till +they saw Tupia, which totally removed their +apprehensions,and they ventured to come alongside, +and upon assurances of friendship, the +King of Huaheine and his Queen went on +board. Astonishment was testified by their +Majesties at every thing that was shewn them; +yet they made no researches, and appeared satisfied +with what was presented to their observation, +making no enquiry after any other objects, +though it was reasonable to suppose, that +a building of such novelty and extent as the ship +must have afforded many curiosities. The +King, whose name was <i>Oree</i>, made a proposal +to exchange names with Captain Cook, which +was readily assented to. The custom of exchanging +names is very prevalent in this island, and is +considered as a mark of friendship. They +found the people here nearly similar to those of +Otaheite in almost every circumstance, except, +if Tupia might be credited, they were not addicted +to thieving. Having come to an anchor +in a small but fine harbour, on the west side of +the island, Captain Cook went ashore, accompanied +by Mr. Banks and some other gentlemen, +with Tupia and the King. The instant they +landed, Tupia uncovered himself as low as his +waist, and desired Mr. Monkhouse to follow +<span class='pagenum'>291</span>his example. Being seated, he now begun +a speech, which lasted about twenty minutes; +the King, who stood opposite to him, answering +in what seemed to be set replies. During this +discourse he delivered, at different times, a +handkerchief, a black silk neckcloth, some +beads and plantains, as presents to their Eatua, +or Deity. He received in return for the Eatua, +of the English, a hog, some young plantains, +and two bunches of feathers, which were carried +on board. These ceremonies were considered +as a kind of ratification of a treaty between +the English and the King of Huaheine. +</p> +<p> +On the 17th they went again on shore, and +walked up into the country, the productions of +which greatly resembled those of Otaheite; the +rocks and clay seemed, however, more burnt; +the boat-houses were large, and the other houses +neat. The level part of the country affords +the most beautiful landscapes that the imagination +can possibly form an idea of; the soil is +exceedingly fertile, and the shores are lined with +fruit trees of different kinds, particularly the +cocoa-nut, which was seen in great abundance. +</p> +<p> +They also went on shore on the 18th without +Tupia, but his boy, whose name was Tayota, +accompanied them, and Mr. Banks proposed +taking a more perfect view of a kind of chest, +or ark, which he had before observed; the lid +of this ark was sewed on in a peculiar manner, +and thatched with palm-nut leaves. It was +<span class='pagenum'>292</span>placed upon two poles, and sustained on small +carved arches of wood, the poles served to remove +it from one place to another, in the manner +of a sedan chair; it is very surprising, that +this chest was of a form greatly resembling the +ark of the Lord among the Jews; but what +was still more extraordinary, the boy informed +them, that it was called <i>Ewharre no Eatua</i>, <i>the +house of the God</i>, but he could give no account +of its meaning or utility: with some difficulty +they negotiated for eleven pigs, and were not +without hopes of obtaining more the next +morning. +</p> +<p> +Wednesday the 19th, they carried some +hatchets with them, with which they procured +three very large hogs. As they proposed to +sail in the afternoon, the King, accompanied +by some others of the natives, came on board +to take his leave, when his Majesty received +from Captain Cook a small pewter plate, with +the following inscription. “His Britannic Majesty’s +ship Endeavour, Lieutenant Cook Commander, +16 July, 1769.” He also was presented +with some medals, or counters, resembling +the coin of England, and a few other +trifles. +</p> +<p> +This island is situated in the latitude of 16 +degrees 43 minutes south, and longitude 150 +degrees 52 minutes west; it is distant from Otaheite +about thirty leagues, and is about twenty +miles in circumference. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>293</span>The productions of Huaheine, seem to be a +month forwarder than those of Otaheite, as they +found by several of the fruits, &c. Mr. Banks +met with only a few new plants, but found a species +of scorpion which he had not seen before. +</p> +<p> +The people are of a very lazy disposition, +though they are stouter and larger made than +those of Otaheite. +</p> +<p> +The women are much fairer than those of +that island, and in general exceedingly handsome: +both men and women seemed less susceptible +of fear, and not so desirous of information. +</p> +<p> +From Huaheine they sailed for the island of +Ulietea, and in the afternoon came within a +league or two of the shore. The next morning, +being the 20th, by the direction of Tupia, +they anchored in a bay, which is formed +by a reef, on the north side of the island; two +canoes of natives soon came off from the shore, +and brought with them two small hogs, which +they exchanged for some nails and beads. The +Captain, Mr. Banks, and some other gentlemen, +now went on shore, accompanied by Tupia, +who introduced them with the same kind +of ceremonies that had taken place on their +landing at Huaheine; after which, Capt. Cook +took possession of this and the adjacent islands +in the name of the King of Great Britain. +</p> +<p> +They then walked to a large Morai, which +the natives called <i>Tapodeboatea</i>; they found that +<span class='pagenum'>294</span>it differed considerably from the Morais of Otaheite, +being composed of four walls, about +eight or nine feet in height, built of very large +coral-stones, which surrounded an area about +thirty yards square: at a small distance they discovered +an <i>Ewhatta</i>, or altar, upon which, as +an oblation, was placed a whole hog, about a +hundred pounds weight. At the front of this +Morai, facing the sea, there was a kind of amphitheatre. +There were likewise three or four +<i>Ewharee no Eatua</i>, or houses of God, of the +same kind as that which they saw at Huaheine. +</p> +<p> +On Friday the 21st, the Master was sent in +the long-boat to inspect the coast on the south +part of the island, and a Lieutenant was dispatched +in the yawl, to sound the harbour where +the Endeavour lay, while the Captain went in +the pinnace to take a view of the coast on the +north part of the island; in their return they saw +a tree, of the same kind as that seen by Mr. +Green at Otaheite, the circumference of the +trunk, or rather congeries of the roots of +which measured about forty yards. +</p> +<p> +On the 22d and 23d it being hazy weather +with brisk gales, Captain Cook judged it rather +unsafe to put to sea. On they 24th they +got under sail, and steered to the northward +within the reef, towards an opening five or six +leagues distant; in effecting this, he was in the +greatest danger of striking on a rock; the man +who sounded, crying out on a sudden, two fathom, +<span class='pagenum'>295</span>at which they were much alarmed, but +happily got clear without receiving any damage. +</p> +<p> +The bay in which the Endeavour lay at anchor +is called <i>Oopoa</i>; it is large enough to contain +a great number of shipping, and is secured +from the sea by a reef of rocks. It lies off the +eastermost point of the island, and may be distinguished +by a low woody island which lies to +the south-east of it. +</p> +<p> +The provisions of this island consist chiefly +of cocoa-nuts, yams, plantains, and a few hogs +and fowls: that part of the country where they +landed is not so fruitful as either Otaheite or +Huaheine. +</p> +<p> +On the 25th they were within a league or +two of the island of Otaha, but the wind +continuing contrary, they could not get near +enough to land till the 28th in the morning, +when Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went in the +long-boat, with the Master, to sound a harbour +on the east side of the island, which they found +safe and convenient, with good anchorage. +They then went on shore, and purchased some +hogs and fowls, and a large quantity of yams +and plantains. +</p> +<p> +This island appeared to be more barren than +Ulietea, but the produce was much the same. +The natives paid them the compliment they +used towards their own Kings, by uncovering +their shoulders, and wrapping their cloaths +<span class='pagenum'>296</span>round their bodies; taking care no one should +omit doing the same. +</p> +<p> +On the 29th they made sail to the northward, +and at eight o’clock next morning they were close +under the high craggy peak of the island of +Bolabola. The island was inaccessible in this +part, and they found it impossible to weather +the south end of it till late at night. The next +morning, Sunday the 30th, they discovered an +island, which Tupia called Maurua, who said +it was small, surrounded by a reef, and without +any commodious harbour, but inhabited, and +yielded nearly the same produce as the adjacent +islands. In the middle is a high round hill, +which may be seen at eleven or twelve leagues +distance. +</p> +<p> +In the afternoon, finding themselves to windward +of some harbours that lay on the west side +of Ulietea, they intended to put into one of +them, in order to stop a leak which they had +sprung in the powder-room, and to take in some +additional ballast. The wind being right against +them, they plied on and off till the afternoon, +of the 1st of August, when they came +to an anchor in the entrance of the channel +which led into one of the harbours. +</p> +<p> +Wednesday 2, in the morning, when the tide +turned, they came into a proper place for mooring, +in twenty-eight fathom. In the interim +many of the natives came off, and brought +<span class='pagenum'>297</span>hogs, fowls, and plantains, which were purchased +upon very moderate terms. +</p> +<p> +Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went on shore, +and spent the day very agreeably; the natives +shewing them great respect. Being conducted +to the houses of the chief people, they were +received in an uncommon manner. Upon their +entrance into a house, they found those who +had ran hastily before them, standing on each +side of a long matt, spread upon the ground, +and the family sitting at the further end of it. +In one house they observed some very young +girls, dressed in the neatest manner, who kept +their places, waiting for the strangers to accost +them: these girls were the most beautiful the +gentlemen had ever seen. +</p> +<p> +One of them, who was about seven or eight +years old, was dressed in a red gown, and her +head was decorated with a great quantity of +plaited hair; this ornament is called <i>Tomou</i>, +and is held in great estimation among them. +She was sitting at the upper end of one of their +long mats, on which none of the people present +presumed to set a foot; and her head was +reclined on the arm of a decent looking woman, +who appeared to be her nurse; when Mr. Banks +and Dr. Solander approached her, she stretched +out her hand to receive some beads, which they +presented to her, with an air of such dignity +and gracefulness, as would have done honour +to the first princess in Europe. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>298</span>Before their departure they were entertained +with a dance, different from any they had seen +before. The performer put upon his head a +large piece of wicker-work, about four feet +long, of a cylindrical form, covered with feathers, +and edged round with shark’s teeth. +Having this head-dress on, which is called a +<i>Whou</i>, he began to dance with a slow motion, +frequently moving his head, so as to describe a +circle with the top of his wicker cap, and sometimes +throwing it so near the faces of the bye-standers, +as to make them jump back; this +they considered as an excellent piece of humour, +and it always produced a hearty laugh, when +practiced upon any of the English gentlemen. +</p> +<p> +On Thursday the 3d, as Mr. Banks and the +Doctor were going along the shore to the northward, +with a design to purchase stock, they +met with a company of dancers, who retarded +the progress of their excursion near two hours, and +afforded them much diversion. The company +was composed of six men and two women dancers, +with three drums. They were informed, +that these dancers were some of the principal +people of the island, and though they were +an itinerant troop, they did not, like the strolling +parties of Otaheite, receive any gratuity +from the by-standers. The women wore a considerable +quantity of Tamou, or plaited hair, +ornamented with the flowers of the cape jessamine, +which were stuck in with taste, and made +<span class='pagenum'>299</span>an elegant head dress. The womens necks, +breasts and arms were naked; the other parts +of the body were covered with black cloth, +which was fastened close round them; and by +the side of each breast, next the arms, was a +small plume of black feathers, worn like a nosegay. +</p> +<figure class='max100' style='width: 49em;'> +<img src="images/323.jpg" class="w100 v_align_b" alt=""> +<figcaption><i>Representation of a Dance in the Island of Ulietea.</i></figcaption> +</figure> +<p> +Thus apparelled they advanced sideways, +keeping time with great exactness to the drums, +which beat quick and loud; soon after, they +began to shake themselves in a very whimsical +manner, and put their bodies into a variety of +strange postures, sometimes standing in a row +one behind another, sometimes sitting down, +and at others falling with their faces to the +ground, and resting on their knees and elbows, +moving their fingers at the same time with a +quickness scarcely to be credited. The chief +dexterity, however, of the dancers, as well as +the amusement of the spectators, consisted in +the lasciviousness of their attitudes and gestures, +which decency forbids us to describe. +</p> +<p> +Between the dances of the women, a kind +of dramatic interlude was performed by the +men, consisting of dialogue as well as dancing; +but for want of a sufficient knowledge of their +language, they could not learn the subject of +this interlude. +</p> +<p> +Friday the 4th, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, +and some other gentlemen, were present at a +more regular dramatic entertainment. The +<span class='pagenum'>300</span>performers, who were all men, were divided into +two parties, one dressed in brown, and the other +in white, by way of distinction. Tupia being +present, informed them, that the party in brown +acted the parts of a master and his servants, +and the party in white a gang of thieves; the +master having produced a basket of meat, which +he gave in charge to his servants; the white +party exhibited a variety of expedients, in endeavouring +to steal this basket, and the brown +set as many in preventing the accomplishment +of their design. After some time had +been spent in this manner, those to whom the +basket was entrusted, laying themselves down on +the ground round it, pretended to fall asleep; +the other party availing themselves of this opportunity, +stole gently upon them, and carried +off their booty; the servants awaking soon after +discovered their loss, but they made no search +after the basket, and began to dance with as +much alacrity as before. +</p> +<p> +On Saturday the 5th, some hogs and fowls, +and several large pieces of cloth, many of them +being fifty or sixty yards in length, together +with a quantity of plantains and cocoa-nuts, +were sent to Captain Cook as a present, from +the Earee rahie of the island of Bolabola, accompanied +with a message, that he was then on +the island, and intended waiting on the Captain +the next day. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>301</span>On Sunday the 6th, the King of Bolabola +did not visit them agreeable to his promise, his +absence, however, was not in the least regretted, +as he sent three very agreeable young women +to demand something in return for his present. +After dinner, they set out to pay the +King a visit on shore, as he did not think proper +to come on board. As this man was the +Earee rahie of the Bolabola men, who had +conquered this, and were the dread of all the +neighbouring islands, they were greatly disappointed, +instead of finding a vigorous, enterprising +young Chief, to see a poor feeble decrepid +old dotard, half blind, and sinking under +the weight of age and infirmities. He received +them without either that state or ceremony +which they had hitherto met with among the +other Chiefs. +</p> +<p> +On Wednesday the 9th, having stopped their +leak, and taken on board their fresh stock of +provisions, they sailed out of the harbour. Tho’ +they were several leagues distant from the island +of Bolabola, Tupia earnestly entreated Captain +Cook, that a shot might be fired towards it; +which, to gratify him, the Captain complied +with. This was supposed to have been intended +by Tupia as a mark of his resentment against +the inhabitants of that place, as they had formerly +taken from him large possessions which +he held in the island of Ulietea, of which island +<span class='pagenum'>302</span>Tupia was a native, and a subordinate Chief, +but was driven out by these people. +</p> +<p> +They had great plenty of provisions, as well +of hogs and fowls, as of vegetables, during +the time they continued in the neighbourhood +of those islands, so that they were not obliged to +use any considerable quantity of the ship’s provisions, +and they had flattered themselves, that the +fowls and hogs would have supplied them with +fresh provisions during the course of their voyage +to the southward; but in this they were unhappily +disappointed, for as the hogs could not +be brought to eat any sort of European grain, or +any provender whatever that the ship afforded, +they were reduced to the disagreeable necessity +of killing them immediately on their leaving +those islands; and the fowls all died of a disease +in their head, with which they were seized +soon after they had been carried on board. +</p> +<p> +As they were detained longer at Ulietea in repairing +the ship than they expected, they did +not go on shore at Bolabola; but, after giving +the general name of the <i>Society Islands</i> to the +islands of Huhaheine, Ulietea, Bolabola, Otaha +and Maurua, which lie between the latitude +of 16 deg. 10 min. and 16 deg. 55 min. +south, they pursued their course, standing southwardly +for an island, to which they were directed +by Tupia, at above an hundred leagues +distant, which they discovered on Sunday the +13th, and were informed by him, that it was +<span class='pagenum'>303</span>called <i>Ohiteroa</i>. The next morning they stood +in for land, and saw several of the inhabitants +along the shore; one of the Lieutenants was +now dispatched in the pinnace, to sound for +anchorage, and obtain what intelligence he +could of the natives, respecting any land that +might lay further to the south. Mr. Banks, +Dr. Solander, and Tupia went also in the boat, +with the Lieutenant, when they came near the +shore, they could perceive that the inhabitants +were armed with lances of a considerable length. +The appearance of the boat soon drew together +a great number of them upon the beech, two +of whom leaped into the water, and endeavoured +to gain the boat, but she soon left them +behind; several others made the same attempt, +but with as little success. +</p> +<p> +The boat having doubled the point where +they intended to land, opened a large bay, and +discovered another party of the natives standing +at the end of it, armed in the same manner +as those they had already seen. The boat’s +crew now rowed towards the shore, and began +to make preparations for landing, upon which +a canoe, with some of the natives on board, +came off towards them; they ordered Tupia +to acquaint these people, that they did not intend +doing them any injury, but wanted to +traffick with them with nails, which they shewed +them; this information encouraged them to +come along-side the boat, and they accepted +<span class='pagenum'>304</span>of some nails, which were given them with +much apparent pleasure and satisfaction; it soon +appeared, however, to be nothing more than +dissimulation; for, in a few minutes, several of +them unexpectedly boarded the boat, with an +intention of dragging her on shore; some musquets +were immediately discharged over their +heads, which had the desired effect, all of them +leaping directly into the sea; and as soon as +they reached the canoe, they put back to the +shore as fast as they could paddle, where a vast +concourse of their countrymen were assembled +to receive them. They were followed to the +shore by the people in the boat, who found the +surf so violent, that they did not think it safe +to attempt landing. They therefore coasted +along the shore, in hopes of finding a place +where they might land with less danger; presently +after the canoe got on shore, a man with +a lance in his hand ran along opposite to the +boat, flourishing his weapon, and calling out +with a shrill voice, which, upon enquiry of +Tupia, they were informed was a mark of +defiance. +</p> +<p> +Not being able to find a more convenient +landing place, they returned, with a design of +attempting it at the place where the canoe went +on shore: as they were going back, the same +mode of defiance was repeated by another warrior +of a more formidable appearance than the +first; having a high cap on, made of the tail +<span class='pagenum'>305</span>feathers of a bird, and his body painted with +streaks of a variety of colours. When this +man retired, another advanced in years, with a +grave and sedate countenance, made his appearance +upon the beach, and asked them several +questions, such as from whence they came, +whither they were bound, and who they were. +Tupia having answered these questions, and repeated +his assurances, that our intentions were +amicable, they appeared to be somewhat pacified. +The people in the boat now proposed +going on shore, to trade with them for such articles +as they chose to dispose of, if they would +quit their weapons; but they would not agree +to this proposal on any other terms, than the +English leaving their musquets behind them in +the boat; with this, however, prudence would +not permit them to comply, especially as they +had so lately experienced the dissembling nature +of these people. They therefore gave over all +hopes of establishing a friendly intercourse with +them, and returned to the ship. And as neither +the bay which the boat entered, nor any +other part of the island afforded either harbour +or anchorage, the Captain did not think it worth +while to attempt a second landing. +</p> +<p> +The people of this island are very tall, well +proportioned, and have long hair, which, like +the inhabitants of the other islands, they tie in +a bunch on the top of their head; they are +<span class='pagenum'>306</span>likewise tataowed on different parts of their bodies, +but not on their posteriors. +</p> +<p> +This island does not shoot up into high peaks, +like the others which they visited, but is more +level and uniform, and divided into small hillocks, +some of which are covered with groves +of trees; they saw no bread-fruit, and not many +cocoa-nut trees, but great numbers of the tree +called Etoa, were planted all along the shore. +</p> +<p> +Their cloth, as well as the manner of wearing +it, differed in many respects from any they +had met with; all that they saw was died yellow, +and painted on the outside with a variety +of colours. Their habit consisted only of one +piece with a hole made in the middle of it, thro’ +which they put their head; it reaches as low as +their knees, and is tied close round their bodies +with a kind of yellow sash; some of them wear +caps of the same kind as that already mentioned, +and others bind their heads with a piece of +cloth resembling a turban. +</p> +<p> +On Tuesday, the 15th of August, they sailed +from this island to the Southward, with a fine +breeze from the north, and clear pleasant weather; +and on the 16th it being rather hazy, +they were deceived by an appearance like several +high peaks of land, for which they bore +away, but the weather clearing up, convinced +them of their mistake, and they resumed their +course to the south. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>307</span>On Friday the 25th, they celebrated the +anniversary of their leaving England, from +whence they had now been absent one year: a +large Cheshire cheese, which had been carefully +preserved for that purpose, was brought out, +and a barrel of porter tapped, which proved to +be as good as any they had ever drank in England. +On the 29th John Raden, the Boatswain’s +mate, died; this man’s death was occasioned +by drinking too freely of some rum which +was given him by the Boatswain. On the 30th, +about four o’clock in the morning, they saw a +large comet about 60 degrees above the horizon. +</p> +<p> +On Thursday the 7th of October, they discovered +land at west by north, and in the afternoon, +of the next day, they came to an anchor +opposite the mouth of a little river about +a mile and a half from the shore. The Captain, +with Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and some +other gentlemen, accompanied by a party of +marines, went on shore in the evening, in the +pinnace and yawl. +</p> +<p> +Having left the pinnace at the entrance of the +river, Captain Cook, Mr. Banks, &c. proceeded +a little farther up, when they landed, and +leaving the yawl to the care of some of their +boys, went up to a few small houses which they +saw at a little distance. Taking the advantage +of their absence from the boat, some of the natives, +who had concealed themselves behind the +bushes, suddenly rushed out, and ran towards +<span class='pagenum'>308</span>it, brandishing the long wooden lances which +they had in their hands in a threatening manner. +The boys perceiving them, instantly dropt +down the stream, but were very closely pursued +by the Indians; the Cockswain of the pinnace +therefore fired a musquetoon over their heads, +which did not seem to intimidate them, as they +still continued their pursuit; he then fired a +second time over their heads, but with no better +effect; alarmed at the situation of the boat, +as they were now got near enough to discharge +their lances at it, the Cockswain levelled his +piece at them, and shot one man dead on +the spot. Struck with astonishment at the fall +of their companion, the others stood motionless +for some time, but as soon as they recovered +from their fright, retreated to the woods with +the utmost precipitation. The report of the +gun soon brought the advanced party back to +the boats, and both the pinnace and yawl immediately +returned to the ship. +</p> +<p> +On Monday the 9th in the morning, a great +number of the natives were seen near the place +where the gentlemen in the yawl had landed the +preceding evening, and the greatest part of them +appeared to be unarmed. The long-boat, pinnace +and yawl, being ordered out, and manned +with marines and sailors, Captain Cook, together +with Mr. Banks, the rest of the gentlemen +and Tupia went on shore, and landed on the +opposite side of the river, over against several +<span class='pagenum'>309</span>Indians who were sitting on the ground; as soon +as the gentlemen began to land, they immediately +started up, each producing either a long +pike, or a kind of truncheon made of stone, +with a string through the handle of it, which +they twisted round their wrist. Tupia was ordered +to speak to them in his language; and +the gentlemen were agreeably surprized to find +that he was well understood, the natives speaking +the Otaheitean language, only in a different +dialect. Their intentions at first appeared to be +very hostile, brandishing their weapons in the +usual threatening manner; upon which a musquet +was fired at some distance from them, at +the effect of which the ball happening to strike +the water, they appeared rather terrified, and +desisted from their menaces. The marines being +drawn up, the Captain, with four or five +of the gentlemen and Tupia, advanced nearer +to the side of the river; Tupia again spoke to +them, and informed them, that they wanted to +traffick with them for provisions. They readily +consented to trade, and requested the English +gentlemen to cross the river and come over to +them; which was agreed to, upon condition +that the natives would quit their weapons; but +this the most solemn assurances of friendship +could not prevail on them to comply with. +Not thinking it prudent therefore to cross the +river, as they would not be persuaded to lay by +their arms, the gentlemen in their turn intreated +<span class='pagenum'>310</span>the Indians to come over to them, which +after some time they prevailed on one of +them to do; he was presently followed by +several others, bringing their weapons with +them. They did not appear to set any great +value on the beads, iron, &c. which was presented +to them, nor would they give any thing +in return, but proposed to exchange their weapons +for those belonging to the English, which +being consequently objected to, they endeavoured +several times to snatch them out of their +hands. But as the gentlemen were on their +guard, from the information given them by +Tupia that they were still their enemies, their +attempts to seize the arms were repeatedly frustrated, +and Tupia, by the direction of the gentlemen, +gave them notice, that any further offer +of violence would be punished with instant +death. One of them had, nevertheless, the +audacity to snatch Mr. Green’s hanger, and retiring +a few paces, flourished it over his head; +he, however, paid for this temerity with his +life, Mr. Monkhouse firing at him with a musquet +loaded with ball; and that gentleman afterwards, +with some difficulty, recovered the +hanger, one of the Indians endeavouring to +seize it. +</p> +<p> +This behaviour of the natives, added to the +want of fresh water, induced Captain Cook +to continue his course round the head of the +bay. He was still in hopes of getting some of +<span class='pagenum'>311</span>the Indians on board, and by presents, added +to civil usage, convey through them a favourable +idea of the English to their fellow countrymen; +and thereby settle a good correspondence +with them. Soon after an event occured, +though attended with disagreeable circumstances, +that promised to facilitate this design. +Two canoes appeared making towards land, +and Captain Cook proposed intercepting them +with his boats. One of them got clear off, +but the Indians in the other finding it impossible +to escape the boats, began to attack them +with their paddles: this compelled the Endeavour’s +people to fire upon them, when four of +the Indians were killed, and the other three, +who were youths, jumped into the water, and +endeavoured to swim to shore: they were however +taken up and brought on board. They +were at first greatly terrified, thinking they +should be killed; but Tupia, by repeated assurances +of friendship, removed their fears, and +they afterwards eat very heartily of the ship’s +provisions. When they retired to rest, in the +evening, they appeared perfectly easy in their +minds, and slept very quietly for some hours, +but in the middle of the night their fears again +returned, and they appeared in great agitation, +frequently making loud and dismal groans. +After some time, however, the friendly promises +and kind caresses of Tupia again prevailed over +their fears, and they became so calm and resigned +<span class='pagenum'>312</span>as to sing a song, the tune of which was solemn +and slow, and, at the dead of night, when an +universal silence prevailed throughout the ship, +had an awful and pleasing effect. The next +morning, after they were dressed and ornamented, +according to the mode of their country, +with necklaces and bracelets, Captain +Cook proposed setting them on shore, that +they might give a favourable report to their +countrymen of the reception they had met +with. They testified much satisfaction when +told they were going to be released: but seemed +under great apprehensions of danger, at finding +the boat approach Captain Cook’s first landing-place, +intimating, that the inhabitants here were +their foes, and that they always killed and ate +their enemies. The Captain, nevertheless, +judged it expedient to land near the same spot, +which he accordingly did with Mr. Banks, Dr. +Solander and Tupia, resolving at the same time +to protect the youths from any injury that might +be offered them. The gentlemen had not been +long on shore before the boys left them, but on +seeing two large parties of the Indians advancing +hastily towards them, they returned, and +again put themselves under their protection. As +the Indians drew nearer, one of the boys discovered +his uncle amongst them, and a conversation +took place between them across the river, in +which the lad gave a very just account of the hospitality +he had met with, and took great pains +<span class='pagenum'>313</span>to display their cloaths and finery. Soon after the +uncle swam across the river, bringing with him a +green bow, as a token of friendship, which was +received as such, and several presents were made +him. The body of the Indian, who was shot +the day before, lay in the same place where he +fell: one of the boys had covered it with part +of his cloaths; and after the gentlemen had retired, +the Indian performed a kind of ceremony +over it, by throwing a green branch towards it, +and the body was afterwards carried in a raft +across the river. Notwithstanding the presence +of the uncle of one of the boys, all three of +them, by their own desire, returned to the ship, +but as the Captain intended sailing the next +morning, he sent them on shore again in the +evening, though much against their inclination; +the names of these boys were Taahourange, +Koikerange and Maragovete. They informed +Captain Cook, that there was a particular +kind of deer upon the island, likewise taro, +eapes, romara, yams, a kind of long pepper, +bald coote, and black birds. +</p> +<p> +On the 11th Captain Cook set sail, in hopes +of finding a better anchoring place, after giving +this bay (called by the natives Toaneora) +the name of <i>Poverty Bay</i>; and the south-west +point he called <i>Young Nick’s Head</i>, on account +of its being first perceived by a lad on board +named Nicholas Young. They were becalmed +in the afternoon, and several canoes came off +<span class='pagenum'>314</span>from the shore with Indians, who received many +presents, and afterwards bartered even their +cloaths, and some of their paddles, so eager +were they of being possessed of as many European +commodities as possible. A single tree +formed the bottom of their canoes, and the upper +part consisted of two planks sewed together: +they sat on thwarts; their paddles were painted +red, representing many uncommon figures, and +were curiously wrought. +</p> +<p> +They were armed with bludgeons made of +wood, and of the bone of a large animal; they +called them <i>Patoo, Patoo</i>, and they were well +contrived for close fighting. +</p> +<p> +After they had finished their traffic, they set +off in such a hurry, that they forgot three of +their companions, who remained on board all +night. +</p> +<p> +They testified their fears and apprehensions, +notwithstanding Tupia took great pains to convince +them they were in no danger; and about +seven the next morning a canoe came off, with +four Indians on board. It was at first with +difficulty the Indians in the ship could prevail +on those in the canoe to come near them; and +it was not till after the former had assured +them that the English did not eat men, that +they came along-side the Endeavour. The +Chief came on board, whose face was tataowed, +with a remarkable patoo patoo in his hand; +and in this canoe the three Indians left the ship. +<span class='pagenum'>315</span>Captain Cook gave the name of <i>Cape Table</i> +to a point of land about seven leagues to +the south of Poverty Bay, its figure greatly +resembling a table; and the island, called by +the natives <i>Teabowry</i>, he named <i>Portland +Island</i>, it being very similar to that of the same +name in the British Channel. It is joined +to the main by a chain of rocks, near a mile in +length, partly above water. There are several +shoals, called shambles, about three miles to +the north-east of Portland, one of which the +Endeavour narrowly escaped; there is, however, +a passage between them with 20 fathom water. +Some parts of Portland Island, as well as the +Main, were cultivated; and pumice-stone in +great quantities lying along the shore, within +the bay, indicated that there is a volcano in +the island. High pailings upon the ridges of +hills were also visible in two places, which were +judged to be designed for religious purposes. +</p> +<p> +On the 12th several Indians came off in a +canoe; they were disfigured in a strange manner, +danced and sung, and appeared at times +to be peaceably inclined, and at others to menace +hostilities; but, notwithstanding Tupia +strongly invited them to come on board, none +of them would quit the canoe. Whilst the Endeavour +was getting clear of the shambles, five +canoes full of Indians came off, and seemed to +threaten the people on board, by brandishing +their lances, and other hostile gestures; a +<span class='pagenum'>316</span>four pounder, loaded with grape shot, was therefore +ordered to be fired, but not pointed at them. +This had the desired effect, and made them drop +a-stern. Two more canoes came off, whilst +the Endeavour lay at anchor; but the Indians +on board behaved very peaceably and quiet, +and received several presents, but would not +come on board. +</p> +<p> +On Friday the 13th, in the morning, they +made for an inlet, but finding it not sheltered +they stood out again, and were chaced by a +canoe, filled with Indians, but the Endeavour +out-sailed them. She pursued her course round +the bay, but did not find an opening. +</p> +<p> +The next morning they had a view of the +inland country; it was mountainous, and covered +with snow in the interior parts, but the +land towards the sea was flat and uncultivated, +and in may places there were groves of high +trees. Nine canoes full of Indians came from +the shore, and five of them, after having consulted +together, pursued the Endeavour, apparently +with an hostile design. Tupia was +desired to acquaint them that immediate destruction +would ensue, if they persevered in +their attempts; but words had no influence, +and a four pounder, with grape shot, was fired, +to give them some notion of the arms of their +opponents. They were terrified at this kind of +reasoning, and paddled away faster than they +came. Tupia then hailed the fugitives, and +<span class='pagenum'>317</span>acquainted them, that if they came in a peaceable +manner, and left their arms behind, no +annoyance would be offered them: one of the +canoes submitting to these terms, came along +side the ship, and received many presents; but +the other canoes returning, and persisting in +the same menacing behaviour, interrupted this +friendly intercourse. +</p> +<p> +The following day, Sunday the 15th, they +were visited by some fishing boats, the people +in which conducted themselves in an amicable +manner; though the fish which they had on +board had been caught so long that they were +not eatable, Captain Cook purchased them, +merely for the sake of promoting a traffick with +the natives. In the afternoon a large canoe, +with a number of armed Indians, came up, +and one of them who was remarkably cloathed, +with a black skin, found means to defraud +the Captain of a piece of red baize, +under pretence of bartering the skin he +had on for it. As soon as he had got the baize +into his possession, instead of giving the skin in +return agreeable to his bargain, he rolled them +up together, and ordered the canoe to put off +from the ship, turning a deaf ear to the repeated +remonstrances of the Captain against his unjust +behaviour. After a short time this canoe, +together with the fishing boats which had put +off at the same time, came back to the ship, +and trade was again begun. During this second +<span class='pagenum'>318</span>traffick with the Indians, one of them unexpectedly +seized Tupia’s little boy Tayota, and +pulling him into his canoe instantly put her off, +and paddled away with the utmost speed; several +musquets were immediately discharged at +the people in the canoe, and one of them receiving +a wound they all let go the boy, who +before was held down in the bottom of the +canoe. Tayota taking the advantage of their +consternation, immediately jumped into the sea, +and swam back towards the Endeavour, he was +taken on board, without having received any +harm; but his strength was so much exhausted +with the weight of his cloaths, that it was with +great difficulty he reached the ship. In consequence +of this attempt to carry off Tayota, +Captain Cook called the Cape off which it happened +<i>Cape Kidnappers</i>, lying in latitude 39 deg. +43 min. and longitude 182 deg. 24 min. west, +and is very distinguishable by high cliffs and +white rocks, that surround it. Its distance +from Portland Island is about 13 leagues, forming +the south point of a bay, which the Captain +named <i>Hawke’s Bay</i>, in honour of Sir Edward, +who then presided at the admiralty board. +</p> +<p> +As every circumstance that tends to elucidate +the manners and customs of these people +must attract the attention of the curious reader, +we cannot omit Tayota’s behaviour upon recovering +from his fright, occasioned by his being +kidnapped. He produced a fish, and acquainted +<span class='pagenum'>319</span>Tupia, that he designed to make an offering +of it to his God, or Eatua, as a testimonial +of his gratitude for his deliverance. Tupia +approved of his intention, and by his direction +the fish was cast into the sea. This is an evident +proof, that even these unenlightened savages, +by the mere impulse of nature, believe +in the existence of a particular providence. +</p> +<p> +The Endeavour now passed a small island, +white and high, supposed to be inhabited only +by fishermen, as it appeared quite barren, and +was named <i>Bare Island</i>. On the 17th Captain +Cook gave the name of Cape <i>Turn Again</i> to a +head-land, in latitude 40 deg. 34 min. S. longitude, +182 deg. 55 min. west, because the Endeavour +here turned again. Before the Endeavour +touched at New Zealand, it was not certainly +known whether it was an island, or part +of the continent, wherefore the lords of the admiralty +had, by their instructions, directed +Captain Cook to sail along the coasts as far as +40 degrees south latitude, and from thence, if +the land appeared to extend farther, to return +again to the northward. Agreeable to these instructions, +the Captain being opposite to Cape +<i>Turn Again</i>, changed his course from south to +north; and the wind having likewise veered to +the south, he returned nearly in his former track, +sailing along the coast. This Cape is remarkable +for a stratum of clay of a bright brown colour; +its prominence gradually diminishes towards +<span class='pagenum'>320</span>the north-side, but to the south its descent +is not so regular. +</p> +<p> +The land between this Cape and Kidnapper’s +Bay is unequal, and resembles the high downs +of England. There appeared numerous inhabitants, +and several villages. Wednesday the +18th the Endeavour came a-breast of a peninsula +in Portland Island, named <i>Terakako</i>, when +a canoe, with five Indians, came up to the ship. +Two Chiefs who were in this canoe came on +board, where they remained all night, and +were treated with great civility. One of the +Chiefs was a remarkable comely man, and his +countenance was open and prepossessing. Their +curiosity was uncommon, and their acknowledgments, +for the trifling presents they received, +were extremely grateful. The Chiefs +would neither eat nor drink, but the servants +made up for their masters abstinence, by their voracious +appetites. The three boys had given these +natives an account of the hospitality and liberality +of the English, which had prevailed upon +them to pay this visit. +</p> +<p> +Thursday the 19th the Endeavour passed a +remarkable head land, which Captain Cook +named <i>Gable End Foreland</i>. It is distinguished by +a rock, in the shape of a church spire, which is +very near it. Here three canoes came up, and +one Indian came on board; he received some +small presents, and retired to his companions. +<span class='pagenum'>321</span>He wore a new garment of white silky flax, +with a border of black, red and white. +</p> +<p> +Many of the Indians had pieces of green-stone +round their necks, by way of necklaces; +they were transparent, like an emerald, and +appeared, on examination, to be a species of +Nephritic-stone, of which all their ornaments +of this kind consisted. Mr. Banks and the +other gentlemen obtained several pieces of it. +</p> +<p> +The dialect of these Indians was not so guttural +as that of the others, and they spoke the +most like the inhabitants of Otaheite. The +physiognomy of some was agreeable, their noses +being rather prominent than flat. +</p> +<p> +On the 20th they anchored in a bay, about +two leagues to the north of the Foreland. The +natives in canoes invited them hither, and behaved +very amicably. There appeared to be +two Chiefs, who came on board: they received +presents of linen, which gave them much satisfaction; +but they did not hold spike-nails in +such estimation as the inhabitants of some of the +islands. They were dressed in jackets, the one +ornamented with tufts of red feathers, the other +with dog’s skin. The other Indians in the canoes +traded with the Endeavour’s people, without +attempting any imposition; and towards +the evening the Chiefs returned. The Captain, +Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander, now went on +shore, and were courteously received by the inhabitants, +who did not appear in numerous bodies, +<span class='pagenum'>322</span>to avoid giving offence. They received +several trifling presents, and the Captain had +the pleasure to find fresh water, in the course of +a tour round the bay. They remained on shore +all night, and next day Mr. Banks and the +Doctor discovered several plants, and many +beautiful birds, particularly quails and large +pigeons. There were some houses with fences, +to shelter them from the wind, and many stages +for drying fish near the place where the gentlemen +landed. Dogs with small pointed ears, +and very ugly, were the only tame animals among +them. At the watering-place the Captain +ordered a line to be drawn, and enjoined the +natives not to pass it, which injunction they civilly +complied with. Many houses were contiguous, +and the lands in the adjacent vallies +were regular flats, neatly laid out in small plantations, +the ground appearing to be broken, as +if designed for gardens. They have sweet potatoes, +like those of North America, in great +quantities; and the cloth plant grows here spontaneously. +There is plenty of fish in the bay, +such as crabs, cray-fish, and ship-jacks or horse +mackrel, which are larger than those upon our +coasts. The number of supple jacks that grow +in the adjacent woods, render them almost impassable; +but they thereby afford shelter to their +feathered inhabitants: the flat land was planted +with cocos, and the hollow parts with gourds. +Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander visited several of +<span class='pagenum'>323</span>the natives houses, and they met with a very +civil reception. Fish constituted their principal +food at this time, and the root of a sort of fern +served them for bread, which when roasted upon +a fire, and divested of its bark, was sweet +and clammy; in taste not disagreeable, but unpleasant +from its number of fibres. Vegetables +were, doubtless, at other seasons very plentiful. +The women paint their faces red, which so far +from increasing, diminishes the very little beauty +they have. The mens faces were not in general +painted, but some were rubbed over with +red ocre from head to foot, their apparel not +excepted. Though they could not be compared +to the inhabitants of Otaheite for cleanliness in +general, they surpassed them in this respect in +some particulars. Every dwelling was supplied +with a privy, and they had dunghills for depositing +dirt and filth. The women wore a girdle +made of the blade of grass under a petticoat, and +to this girdle was tied in front a bunch of fragrant +leaves. They seemed to hold chastity in +but little estimation, many of the young females +resorting to the watering-place, where +they bountifully bestowed every favour that was +requested. One of the officers on shore, meeting +with an elderly woman, he accompanied her +to her house, and having presented her with +some cloth and beads, a young girl was singled +out, and he was given to understand he might +retire with her. Soon after an elderly man, +<span class='pagenum'>324</span>with two women, came in as visitors, and with +much formality saluted all the company, according +to the custom of the place, which is by +gently joining the tips of their noses together. +The officer upon his return was furnished with +a guide, who led him a much better road than +that he had come, and whenever they came to +a brook or rivulet, the Indian took him upon +his back to preserve him from being wet; several +of the inhabitants were curiously tataowed, +and one old man, in particular, was marked on +the breast with various figures. There was an +axe made of the green stone, already mentioned, +which could not be purchased, though many +things were offered in exchange. At night +they danced in a very uncouth manner, making +antick gestures, lolling out their tongues, with +other strange grimaces; and in these dances +old men with grey beards were, as well as the +young ones, capital performers. They carried +their civility so far, as to assist Mr. Banks and +his company with one of their canoes to carry +them on board; but the Endeavour’s people +being unacquainted with the method of steering +such a vessel, she was overset, but no one +was drowned; and they reached the ship +without any farther accident, some of the +Indians having voluntarily engaged to conduct +her. During the stay of the gentlemen on +shore, many of the natives went off in their +canoes, and trafficked with the ship’s company, +<span class='pagenum'>325</span>preferring at first the cloth of Otaheite to that +of Europe; but it soon diminished in its value. +Several of the Indians went on board, and testified +their curiosity and surprise, with regard +to the different parts of the ship. +</p> +<p> +Sunday 22, in the evening, they sailed from +this bay, which by the natives is called <i>Tegadoo</i>, +and lies in latitude 38 deg. 10 min. south. +The wind being contrary, they put into another +bay a little to the south, called by the natives +<i>Tolaga</i>, in order to complete their wood +and water, and extend their correspondence with +the natives; in this bay they came to an anchor +in about eleven fathom water, with a good sandy +bottom. Several canoes appeared, with Indians +on board, and they trafficked very fairly for +glass bottles and cloth. The Captain, Mr. +Banks, and the Doctor, went in the afternoon +to examine the water, and found it extremely +good; here was also plenty of wood, and the +natives behaved with as much civility as those +they had just departed from. +</p> +<p> +On the 24th, Mr. Gore and the marines were +sent on shore, to guard the people employed in +cutting wood and filling water. Captain Cook, +Mr. Banks and the Doctor also went on shore; +the two latter employed themselves in collecting +plants. In their route they found in the vales +many houses uninhabited, the natives residing +chiefly in slight sheds, on the ridges of the hills, +which are very steep. In a valley between two +<span class='pagenum'>326</span>very high hills they saw a curious rock, that +formed a large arch, opposite to the sea; this +cavity was in length above seventy feet, in +breadth thirty, and near fifty in height; it commanded +a view of the hills and the bay, which +had a very happy effect. Indeed, the whole +country about the bay is agreeable beyond description, +and if properly cultivated would be +a most fertile spot. The hills are covered with +beautiful flowering shrubs, intermixed with a +great number of tall and stately palms, which +perfume the air, and make it most agreeably +odoriferous. Mr. Banks and the Doctor found +the tree that produces the cabbage, which, when +boiled, was very good; and some other trees +that yielded a fine transparent gum. Between +the hills were fruitful villages, that might have +been successfully cultivated, or turned into pasturage. +Various kinds of edible herbage, +were met with in great abundance, and there was +reason to believe there were many trees that +produced fruit fit to eat, some of which the +gentlemen examined. The plant, from which +the cloth is made, is a kind of Hemerocallis, +the leaves of which afford a strong glossy flax, +equally adapted to cloathing, as making of +ropes. There are sweet potatoes and yam plantations +near their houses, which are carefully +cultivated. These gentlemen, upon their return, +met an old man, who entertained them +with the military exercises of the natives, +<span class='pagenum'>327</span>which are performed with the <i>Patoo Patoo</i>, and +the lance. The former has already been mentioned, +and is used as a battle-axe; the latter is +ten or twelve feet in length, made of extreme +hard wood, and sharpened at each end. A stake +was substituted for their old warriors supposed +enemy; he first attacked him with his lance, +when, having pierced him, the Patoo Patoo was +used to demolish his head, and the force with +which he struck would at one blow have split +any man’s skull. This mode of fighting induced +the gentlemen to believe no quarter was +ever given here in war. The natives in this +part are not very numerous; they are tolerably +well shaped, but lean and tall; their faces resemble +those of Europeans; their noses are +aqueline; their eyes dark coloured; their hair +is black, which is tied up on the top of their +heads, and their beards are of a moderate length. +Their tataowing is done very curiously in various +figures, which makes their skin resemble +carving; it is confined to the principal men, +the females and servants using only red paint, +with which they daub their faces, that otherwise +would not be disagreeable. Their cloth +is white, glossy and very even; it is worn principally +by the men, though it is wrought by +the women, who, indeed, are condemned to +all the drudgery and labour. +</p> +<figure class='max100' style='width: 49em;'> +<img src="images/352.jpg" class="w100 v_align_b" alt=""> +<figcaption><i>View of a perforated Rock in Tolago Bay</i></figcaption> +</figure> +<figure class='max100' style='width: 30em;'> +<img src="images/355.jpg" class="w100 v_align_b" alt=""> +<figcaption><i>The Head of a new Zealand Chief curiously Tataowed.</i></figcaption> +</figure> +<p> +On the 25th an armourer’s forge was set up +on shore for necessary uses. Mr. Banks and +<span class='pagenum'>328</span>Dr. Solander went again in search of plants. +Tupia, who was with them engaged in a conversation +with one of the priests, and they seemed +to agree in their opinions upon the subject +of religion. Tupia, in the course of this conference, +enquired, whether the report of their +eating men was founded in truth; to which the +priest replied it was, but that they ate none but +declared foes, after they were killed in war. +This idea is, however, horrid and barbarous, +and proves that they carry their resentment even +beyond death. +</p> +<p> +Captain Cook and Dr. Solander went on the +27th to inspect the bay, when the Doctor was +not a little surprised to find the natives in the +possession of a boy’s top, which they knew how +to spin by whipping it, and he purchased it out +of curiosity. Mr. Banks was during this time +employed in attaining the summit of a steep hill, +that had previously engaged their attention; +and near it he found many uninhabited houses. +Here were two rows of poles about fourteen or +fifteen feet high, covered over with sticks, +which made an avenue of about five feet in +width, extending near a hundred yards down +the hill in an irregular line: the intent of this +erection was not discovered. When the gentlemen +met at the watering-place, the Indians, +by desire, sung their war song, which was a +strange medley of shouting, sighing and grimace, +at which the women assisted. The next +<span class='pagenum'>329</span>day Captain Cook and the other gentlemen went +upon an island at the entrance of the bay, and +met with a canoe that was sixty seven feet in +length, six in breadth, and four in height; her +bottom, which was sharp, consisted of three +trunks of trees, and the sides and head were +curiously carved. There was a large unfinished +house upon this island; the posts which supported +it were ornamented with carvings, that +did not appear to be done upon the spot; and +as the inhabitants seem to set a great value upon +works of this kind, future navigators might +find their advantage in carrying such articles to +trade with. Though the posts of this house +were judged to be brought here, the people have +certainly a taste for carving, as their boats, +paddles, and tops of walking-sticks evince. +Their favourite figure is a volute or spiral, +which is sometimes single, double and triple, +and is done with great exactness, though the +only instruments the gentlemen saw were an axe +made of stone, and a chissel. Their taste, +however, must be acknowledged whimsical and +extravagant, scarce ever imitating nature. +</p> +<p> +Their huts are built under trees; their form +is an oblong square: the door is low on the +side, and the windows are at the ends; reeds, +covered with thatch, compose the walls; the +beams of the eaves, which come to the ground, +are covered with thatch; most of the houses the +gentlemen saw had been deserted, through fear +<span class='pagenum'>330</span>of the English upon their landing. There are +many beautiful parrots, and great numbers of +birds of different kinds, particularly one whose +note resembled the European black bird; but +here is no ground fowl or poultry; nor were +there any quadrupeds, except rats and dogs, +and these were not numerous. The dogs are +considered as delicate food, and their skins serve +for ornaments to their apparel. There is a +great variety of fish in the bay: shell and crayfish +is very plentiful; some of the latter weigh +near a dozen pounds. +</p> +<p> +Sunday, Oct 29, they set sail from this bay, +which is called by the natives <i>Tolaga</i>. It is +seated in latitude 38 deg. 22 min. south, four +leagues to the north of Gable end Foreland: +there are two high rocks at the entrance of the +bay, which form a cove very convenient for +procuring wood and water. There is a high +rocky island off the north point of the bay, +which affords good anchorage, having a fine +sandy bottom, and from seven to thirteen fathom +water, and is likewise sheltered from all +but the north-east wind. +</p> +<p> +Captain Cook obtained nothing here in trade +but some sweet potatoes, and a little fish. This +is a very hilly country, though it presents the +eye with an agreeable verdure, various woods, +and many small plantations. Mr. Banks met +with a great number of trees in the woods, +quite unknown to Europeans; the firewood resembled +<span class='pagenum'>331</span>the maple tree, and produced a gum of +whitish colour; other trees yielded a gum of +deep yellow green. The only roots they met +with were yams and sweet potatoes, though the +soil appears very proper for producing every +species of vegetables. +</p> +<p> +Sailing to the northward, they fell in with a +small island, about a mile distant from the north-east +point of the main; and this being the most +eastern part of it, the Captain named it <span class="small-caps">East +Cape</span>, and the island <span class="small-caps">East Island</span>: it was but +small, and appeared barren. The cape is in +latitude 37 degrees 42 minutes 30 seconds south. +There are many small bays from Tolaga Bay to +East Cape. When the Endeavour had doubled +the cape, many villages presented themselves to +view, and the adjacent land appeared cultivated. +In the evening of the 30th, Lieutenant +Hicks discovered a bay, to which his name was +given. Next morning, about nine, several canoes +came off from shore with a number of +armed men, who appeared to have hostile intentions. +Before these had reached the ship, +another canoe, larger than any that had yet been +seen, full of armed Indians came off, and made +towards the Endeavour with great expedition. +The Captain now judging it expedient to prevent, +if possible, their attacking him, ordered +a gun to be fired over their heads; this not producing +the desired effect, another gun was fired +with ball, which threw them into such consternation, +<span class='pagenum'>332</span>that they immediately returned much +faster than they came. This precipitate retreat, +induced the Captain to give the cape, off +which it happened, the name of <span class="small-caps">Cape Runaway</span>, +which lies in latitude 37 degrees 32 minutes, +longitude 181 degrees 48 minutes. Next +morning, at day break, they saw between forty +and fifty canoes along shore, many of which +came off in the manner they had done the day +before, shouting, and menacing an attack. +One of their Chiefs in the largest of the canoes +made several harangues, and by the menacing +flourish of his pike, seemed to bid the +ship defiance; but the gentlemen continuing to +invite them to trade, they at last came close along-side, +and the Chief who had been declaiming, +after uttering a sentence, took up a stone +and threw it against the side of the ship, which +appeared to be a declaration of hostilities, as +they instantly seized their arms; Tupia told +them, that immediate destruction would ensue, +if they persevered in their design, and at the +same time assured them of the gentlemens pacific +intentions, and that they only wanted to traffick +with them. Neither his threats nor persuasions +would probably have had any effect, +had he not at the same time shewn them some +pieces of cloth, which attracted their eye, and +brought them to reason. The gentlemen now +purchased a great quantity of cray-fish, muscles +and conger-eels. These Indians did not attempt +<span class='pagenum'>333</span>any fraud in their trading; but some others, +who succeeded them, took the goods from the +ship without making proper returns: one of +them, who had been particularly culpable, and +seemed to pride himself upon his cunning, putting +off with his canoe, was brought back by +a musquet being fired over his head, and this +presently produced good order. But when the +sailors began to traffick with the Indians, they +renewed their former fraudulent practices, with +great insolence. One of them seized some linen +that was hanging to dry, and made off with it; +a musquet was fired over his head to make him +return, but this did not prevail, and even after +another was fired at him with small shot, which +hit him in the back, he still persevered in his +design. Upon this the rest of the Indians dropt +a-stern at some distance, and set up their song +of defiance. They did not, however, make +any preparations for attacking the ship; but +the Captain judged, that if he suffered them +to go off without convincing them of his power +of avenging the insult, it might give an unfavourable +opinion of the English, to the natives +on shore. He accordingly fired a four +pounder, which passed over them, and the effect +it had in the water terrified them so greatly, +that they made to shore with the utmost precipitancy. +In the afternoon they descried a high +island to the west, and some time after perceived +some other islands and rocks in the same +<span class='pagenum'>334</span>quarter; not being able to weather them before +night came on, they bore up between them and +the main-land. About seven in the evening a +double canoe, built like those at Otaheite, but +carved after their peculiar manner, came up to +the ship, and Tupia entered into a friendly conversation +with the Indians on board; when, on +a sudden, it being now dark, they pelted the +ship with stones, and then retreated. Tupia +was told by the Indians in the canoe, that the +island close to which the Endeavour lay, was +called <i>Mowtohera</i>; it was but a few miles from +the main-land, of no great extent, but pretty +high. They saw a high round mountain, south-west +by west of <i>Mowtohera</i>, which the Captain +named <span class="small-caps">Mount Edgecombe</span>. +</p> +<p> +The next morning, November 2, many canoes +made their appearance, and one, which +proved to be the same that gave the salute the +night before, came up, and Tupia again engaged +in conversation with the people in her. +After behaving very peaceably about an hour, +the fit of pelting again seized them, and they +gave the ship another volley of stones; but a +musquet being fired, they instantly took to their +paddles. +</p> +<p> +In the forenoon, of the same day, the Endeavour +sailed between a low flat island and the +main: the villages upon the latter were more +extensive than any they had yet seen. They +were upon the high land next the sea, and were +<span class='pagenum'>335</span>surrounded by a bank with rails on the top of +it, and a ditch. There were some inclosures +that resembled forts, and the whole had the appearance +of fortified places. The Endeavour +passed the night under an island about twenty +miles from the main, which they named the +<span class="small-caps">Mayor</span>. In the morning of the 3d, they gave +the name of <span class="small-caps">the Court of Aldermen</span> to a +number of small islands that lay contiguous, +about twelve miles from the main, between +which there are several other small islands mostly +barren, but very high. The aspect of the +main-land was now much changed, the soil appearing +barren, and the country very thinly inhabited. +The Chief, who governed the district +from Cape <i>Turnagain</i> to this coast, was +named <i>Teratu</i>. +</p> +<p> +On Friday the 3d, three canoes came a-longside +with several Indians. These canoes were +built very different from the others, being formed +of the trunks of single trees, made hollow +by burning: they were not carved, or in any +shape ornamented. These Indians were of a +darker complexion than the others, but made +use of the same modes of defiance, and threw +several stones and some of their lances into the +ship. +</p> +<p> +The same afternoon the Endeavour sailed towards +an inlet they had discovered, and anchored +in seven fathom water. She was soon after +surrounded by several canoes, and the Indians +<span class='pagenum'>336</span>at first did not shew any signs that they intended +committing hostilities. One of the Endeavour’s +people shot a bird, which the Indians +conveyed on board, without testifying any surprise +at the event. For their civility, the Captain +gave them a piece of cloth. But this favour +had a very opposite influence to what was +expected, for when it grew dark, they sung one +of their menacing songs, and attempted to carry +off the anchor’s buoy. Some musquets were +now fired over them, which seemed rather to +irritate than terrify them, and upon their going +off, they threatened to return the next morning +in greater numbers; they came back however +the same night about eleven o’clock, in hopes +of surprising the ship’s crew; but finding them +on their guard, they again retired. +</p> +<p> +In the morning of the 4th, a great number +of canoes, with near two hundred men, armed +with spears, lances and stones, made their appearance, +seemingly resolved to attack the +ship, and desirous of boarding her, but could +not determine at what part, changing their stations, +and paddling round her. These motions +kept the crew upon the watch, in the rain, whilst +Tupia, at the request of the Captain, used every +dissuasive argument he could suggest to prevent +their carrying their apparent designs into +execution; but his expostulations did not pacify +them till some musquets were fired; they +then laid aside their hostile intentions, and began +<span class='pagenum'>337</span>to trade: they sold two of their weapons +without fraud, but a third, for which they had +received cloth, they would not deliver up, and +instead of paying any attention to the demand +that was made of it, they only laughed at them, +and turned their expostulations into ridicule. +As the Captain proposed to stay some days at +this place, that he might observe the Transit of +Mercury, he judged it expedient to chastise +these people for their insolence and knavery; +accordingly some small shot were fired upon the +principal offender, and a musquet-ball went +through his canoe. His companions left him +to his fate, without taking the least notice +of him, though he was wounded, and continued +to trade without any discomposure. They +for some time traded very fairly, but returning +to their male practices, another canoe was fired +upon, and struck: they soon after paddled +away, whilst a round shot was fired over them. +</p> +<p> +Thus we find, that theft and chicane are as +prevalent amongst the inhabitants of New Zealand, +as those of Otaheite; from whence we +might conclude, that in all uncivilized nations, +probity is not considered as a virtue, or theft as +a vice. Having no punishment for crimes of this +kind, it may be urged, that they are not taught +to consider them as such; but if nature has implanted +in us just ideas of right and wrong, +they must operate as forcibly upon the inhabitants +under the line, as on those of other climes; +<span class='pagenum'>338</span>and a native of Otaheite must be equally conscious +of a breach of natural justice as the most +polished European. However, as this is establishing +the doctrine of innate ideas, which would +lead us into a large field of controversy, we +shall leave the reader to his own opinion upon +this subject. +</p> +<p> +In searching for a convenient anchoring-place, +the Captain saw a village upon a high point, +near the head of the bay, fortified like those +villages already mentioned. Having met with +a place to his mind near where the Endeavour lay, +he returned to the ship, and sailed to that spot, +where he cast anchor. +</p> +<p> +Several of the Indians came off to the ship +on the 5th, but behaved much better than they +had done the preceding day. They had with +them an old man, who had before testified his +probity and discretion; and he appeared to be +of superior rank to the rest. He came on board +with another Indian, when the Captain presented +them with some nails, and two pieces of +cloth of English manufacture. <i>Tojava</i> (which +was the name of the old man) informed Mr. +Banks, that the natives had been in great terror +of the English; when he was informed, that +the Captain and his people had no ill design against +the Indians; but, on the contrary, wanted +to establish a friendly intercourse, and to traffick +with them. Tojava then acquainted the +Captain, that they were often visited by freebooters +<span class='pagenum'>339</span>from the north, who stripped them of +all they could lay their hands on, and often +made captives of their children and wives; and +that being ignorant who the English were upon +their first arrival, the natives had taken the +alarm upon the ship’s appearing off the coast, +but were now satisfied of their good intent. He +added, that to secure themselves from these +plunderers, their houses were built contiguous +near the tops of rocks, where they are more +able to defend themselves. Probably their poverty +and misery may be ascribed to the ravages +of this banditti, who often strip them of every +necessary of life. Whilst they were fishing for +mullets in the bay, the Indians who were upon +the banks testified their friendship by every possible +means, and gave them an invitation to +come on shore. +</p> +<p> +The assurances of friendship, which they +had received from the gentlemen on board, +seemed to have a proper influence upon the natives, +who were now very tractable and submissive, +and behaved with much civility to the +people in the long-boat, which was again dispatched +into the bay to fish, but with little success; +the Indians however brought great quantities +of fish, dressed and dried; and though +they were very indifferent, they were purchased, +that trade might not be discouraged. In a +word, the natives now treated the English with +great hospitality; a large supply of wood and +<span class='pagenum'>340</span>good water was obtained, and the ship, being +very foul, was heeled, and her bottom scrubbed +in the bay. +</p> +<p> +November the 8th the ship was visited by several +canoes, in one of which was Tojava, who +perceiving two strange canoes paddling from +the opposite shore, suddenly turned about, +and acquainted the Captain that he was under +apprehensions, the people in them were some of +the freebooters, but he soon found his mistake, +and returned to the ship. The Indians supplied +the ship’s crew with as much excellent fish, resembling +mackrel, as was sufficient for all +their dinners, for which they gave them some +pieces of cloth. +</p> +<p> +A great variety of plants were this day collected +by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander; they +had never observed any of the kind before. +These gentlemen remained on shore till near +dark, when they observed the manner of the +natives disposing of themselves during the +night. They lay under some bushes; the men +nearest the sea in a semicircular form, and the +women and children the most distant from it; +their arms were placed against trees very near +them, to defend themselves in case of a surprize +from the freebooters. They had no king, +whose sovereignty they acknowledged, which +was a circumstance unparalleled on any other +parts of the coast. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>341</span>Early in the morning of the 9th, several canoes +brought a prodigious quantity of mackrel, +one sort of which was no way different +from the mackrel caught on our coast. These +canoes were succeeded by many others, equally +well loaded with the same sort of fish; and the +cargoes purchased were so great, that when +salted, they might be considered as a month’s +provision for the whole ship’s company. +</p> +<p> +This being a very clear day, the astronomer +(Mr. Green) and the other gentlemen landed +to observe the Transit of Mercury, and whilst +the observation was making, a large canoe, +with various commodities on board, came alongside +the ship and Mr. Gore, the officer who +had then the command, being desirous of encouraging +them to traffick, produced a piece +of Otaheitean cloth, of more value than any they +had yet seen, which was immediately seized +by one of the Indians, who obstinately refused +either to return it, or give any thing in exchange; +he paid dearly however for his temerity, +being shot dead on the spot. +</p> +<p> +The death of this young Indian alarmed all +the rest; they fled with great precipitancy, and +for the present could not be induced to renew +their traffick with the English. But when the +Indians on shore had heard the particulars related +by Tojava, who greatly condemned the +conduct of the deceased, they seemed to think +<span class='pagenum'>342</span>that he merited his fate. His name proved to +be Otirreeoonooe. +</p> +<p> +This transaction happened, as has been mentioned, +whilst the observation was making of +the Transit of Mercury, when the weather +was so favourable, that the whole Transit was +viewed without a cloud intervening. Mr. Green +made the observation of the ingress, whilst +Captain Cook was engaged in ascertaining the +time, by taking the sun’s altitude. The Transit +commenced at 7 hours, 20 min. 58 sec. +by Mr. Green’s observation the internal contact +was at 12 hours, 8 min. 57 sec. the external at +12 hours, 9 min. 54 sec. the latitude 30 deg. +48 min. 5 sec. In consequence of this observation +having been made here, this bay was +called <i>Mercury Bay</i>. +</p> +<p> +On the 10th Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and +the Captain went in boats to inspect a large river +that runs into the bay. They found it broader +some miles within than at the mouth, and intersected +into a number of streams, by several +small islands, which were covered with trees. +On the east side of the river the gentlemen shot +some shags, which proved very good eating. +The shore abounded with fish of various kinds, +such as cockles, clams and oysters; and here +were also ducks, shags, seapies and curlieus, +with other wild fowl in great plenty. At the +mouth of the river there was good anchorage +in five fathom water. The gentlemen were +<span class='pagenum'>343</span>received with great hospitality by the inhabitants +of a little village, on the east side of +the river. There are the remains of a fort +called Eppah, in a peninsula that projects into +the river, and it was well calculated for defending +a small number against a greater force. +From the remains, it nevertheless seemed to +have been taken and partly destroyed. +</p> +<p> +The Indians sup before sun-set, when they +eat fish and birds baked or roasted; they roast +them upon a stick, stuck in the ground near the +fire, and bake them in the manner the dog was +baked, which the gentlemen ate at King George’s +Island. +</p> +<p> +A female mourner was present at one of their +suppers; she was seated upon the ground, and +wept incessantly, at the same, time repeating +some sentences in a doleful manner, but which +Tupia could not explain; at the termination of +each period she cut herself with a shell upon +her breast, her hands or her face; notwithstanding +this shocking, bloody spectacle greatly affected +the gentlemen present, yet all the Indians who +sat by her, except one, were quite unmoved. +The gentlemen saw some, who from the depth +of their scars must, upon these occasions, have +wounded themselves still more violently. +</p> +<p> +November 11, great plenty of oysters were +procured from a bed which had been discovered, +and they proved exceedingly good. Next +day the ship was visited by two canoes, with +<span class='pagenum'>344</span>unknown Indians; after some invitation they +came on board, and they all trafficked without +any fraud. +</p> +<p> +Two fortified villages being descried, the +Captain, with Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, +went to examine them: the smallest was romantically +situated upon a rock, which was arched; +this village did not consist of above five or six +houses, fenced round. There was but one path, +which was very narrow, that conducted to it. +The gentlemen were invited by the inhabitants +to pay them a visit, but not having time to +spare, they took another route, after making +presents to the females. A body of men, women +and children now approached the gentlemen, +who proved to be the inhabitants of another +town, which they proposed visiting. They +gave many testimonials of their friendly dispositions, +among others they uttered the word +<i>Heromai</i>, which, according to Tupia’s interpretation, +implied Peace, and appeared much satisfied, +when informed the gentlemen intended +visiting their habitations. Their town was +named <i>Wharretouwa</i>; it is seated on a point of +land over the sea, on the north side of the bay; +it was paled round, and defended by a double +ditch. Within the ditch a stage is erected for +defending the place in case of an attack; near +this stage, which they call <i>Porava</i>, quantities of +darts and stones are deposited to be in readiness +to repel the assailants. There is another stage +<span class='pagenum'>345</span>to command the path that leads to the town, +and there are also some outworks. Upon the +whole, the place seemed calculated to hold out +a considerable time against an enemy armed +with no other weapons than those of the inhabitants. +It appeared however deficient in water for +a siege. They eat instead of bread fern root, +which was herein great plenty, with dried fish. +</p> +<p> +Very little land is here cultivated, sweet potatoes +and yams being the only vegetables they +found. There are two rocks near the foot of +this fortification, both separated from the main +land; they are very small, nevertheless they are +not without dwelling-houses and little fortifications. +They throw stones in their engagements +with their hands, being destitute of a sling, and +those and lances are their only missile weapons; +they have, besides the <i>Pattoo Pattoo</i>, already +described, a staff about five feet in length, +and another shorter. +</p> +<p> +They sailed from this bay, after taking possession +of it in the name of the King of Great +Britain, on the 15th of November; Tojava, +who visited them in his canoe just before their +departure, said he should, as soon as the English +were gone, prepare to retire to his fort, as +the relations of Otirreeoonooe had menaced to +take his life, as a forfeit for that of the deceased, +Tojava being judged partial in this affair +to the English. A number of islands of different +sizes appeared towards the north-west, +<span class='pagenum'>346</span>which were named <i>Mercury Islands</i>. Mercury +bay lies in latitude 36 deg. 47 min. south; +longitude 184 deg. 4 min. west, and has a small +entrance at its mouth. On account of the +number of oysters found in the river, the Captain +gave it the name of <i>Oyster river</i>. <i>Mangrove +river</i> (which the Captain so called from the great +number of those trees that grew near it) is the +most secure place for shipping, being at the head +of the bay. The north-west side of this bay +and river is much more fertile than the east +side. The inhabitants, though numerous, +have no plantations; their canoes are very indifferently +constructed, and are no way ornamented; +they lie under continual apprehensions +of Teratu, being considered by him as +rebels. +</p> +<p> +Upon this shore iron sand is in plenty to be +found, which proves that there are mines of +that metal up the country, it being brought +down by a rivulet from thence. +</p> +<p> +On the 18th, in the morning, the Endeavour +steered between the main, and an island which +seemed very fertile, and as extensive as Uli +Etea. Many canoes filled with Indians came +along-side, and the Indians sung their war song, +but the Endeavour’s people paying them no attention, +they threw a volley of stones, and then +paddled away; but they presently returned and +renewed their insults. Tupia spoke to them, +making use of his old argument, that inevitable +<span class='pagenum'>347</span>destruction would ensue if they persisted; +they answered with brandishing their weapons, +intimating, at the same time, that if the English +dared to come on shore they would destroy them +all. Tupia still persisted in expostulating with +them, but to no purpose; and they soon gave +another volley of stones; but upon a musket +being fired at one of their boats, they made a +precipitate retreat. +</p> +<p> +In the evening they cast anchor in 23 fathom, +and early the next morning they sailed up an +inlet. Soon after two canoes came off, and some +of the Indians came on board; they claimed +an acquaintance with Tojava, and knew Tupia’s +name; and after they had received some presents +they retired peaceably. +</p> +<p> +The Endeavour was now in the bay, called +by the natives Ooahaouragee, and Captain +Cook, with Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, &c. +went in the boats to the bottom of the bay to +examine it, and they did not return till next +morning. They had been up a fresh water river, +at the bottom of the bay, in three fathoms +water, which would make a good harbour. +They met with an Indian town, and a hippah, +or place of refuge, the inhabitants of which +invited them to land, and gave them a friendly +reception. At the entrance of a wood they met +with a tree ninety-eight feet high from the ground +to the first branch, quite strait, and nineteen +feet in circumference and they found still larger +<span class='pagenum'>348</span>trees of the same kind as they advanced +into the wood. The Captain called this river +<span class="small-caps">Thames</span>, being not unlike our river of that +name. They also found several young cabbage +trees, and a new species of the palm-nut, or +<i>Pardanus</i>. +</p> +<p> +Captain Cook weighed anchor the same afternoon, +sailing down the river with the tide, the +wind blowing fresh from north-north-west; the +next morning the flood obliged him to cast anchor +again; and the Captain, with Dr. Solander, +went on shore to the west, but made no +observations worth relating. The ship, at +their departure from it, was surrounded with +canoes, which induced Mr. Banks to remain on +board, that he might trade with the Indians. +The chief object of these people was paper, +for which they exchanged their arms and cloaths, +and took no unfair advantages. Though the +traders were honest in their dealings, there was +one amongst them, who took a fancy to a half-minute +glass, but was detected in secreting it, +and he was punished with the cato’nine tails. +The other Indians endeavoured to save him from +this punishment; but being opposed, they got +their arms from the canoes, and some of the +people in them attempted to get on board. Mr. +Banks and Tupia now coming upon deck, the +Indians applied to Tupia but he having no +influence upon Mr. Hicks, the commanding +officer, informed them of the nature of the offender’s +<span class='pagenum'>349</span>intended punishment, which pacified +them, as they imagined he was going to be put +to death. The criminal not only received twelve +lashes, but afterwards a drubbing from an old +man, who was thought to be his father. The +canoes immediately went off, the Indians saying, +they should be afraid to return again on +board. Tupia, however, had so much influence +over them as to bring them back; but they +seemed to have lost that confidence, which they +had before reposed in the English. +</p> +<p> +On the 23d the wind being still against them, +they were obliged to tide it down the river, +anchoring between tides; they passed a point of +land, which the Captain called <i>Point Rodney</i>, +and which is the north-west extremity of the +river. As they could not approach the land, +on account of the wind, they had but a distant +view of the main for a course of near thirty +miles. Captain Cook comprehended, under +the name of the River Thames, the whole bay; +and the promontory at the north-east extremity, +he called Cape Colville, in honour of the peer of +that name. This cape is in latitude 36 deg. +26 min. longitude 194 deg. 27 min. it is distinguishable +at a considerable distance by a very +high rock. The river runs south by east from +the south point of this cape; it is, in the narrowest +parts, at least three leagues over for near +fourteen leagues, when it becomes narrower. +It was thought to contain fish in abundance, as +<span class='pagenum'>350</span>there appeared many implements necessary for +fishing; the water was in some places twenty-six +fathoms deep, and gradually diminished. +There are several small islands within cape Colville, +which appear to form tolerable harbours. +There are also islands towards the western shore. +The anchorage is good in all parts of the bay, +which is defended from the sea by a number of +small islands, which Captain Cook named <i>Barrier +Islands</i>. +</p> +<p> +The circumjacent country, which is pretty +extensive, appeared to be but thinly inhabited; +the natives are a stout and active people, and +are painted red all over: their canoes were ornamented +with carving, and were constructed +upon a good model. +</p> +<p> +On the 24th, they still continued steering along +the shore, between the islands and the +main, and in the evening anchored in an open +bay, in about fourteen fathoms water. Here +they caught a large number of fish of the scienne, +or bream kind; from which the Captain +named this <i>Bream Bay</i>, and the extreme points +of it <i>Bream Head</i>. There are numbers of rocks +off this bay, which were called the <i>Hen and +Chickens</i>; it is situated in latitude 35 deg. +46 min. seventeen leagues north-west of cape +Colville. There is an extent of land of about +thirty miles between Point Rodney and Bream +Head; it is woody and low. No inhabitants +were visible, but from the fires perceived at +<span class='pagenum'>351</span>night, the gentlemen concluded it was inhabited. +</p> +<p> +On the 25th, early in the morning, the Endeavour +sailed out of the bay, keeping to the northward +near the shore. Some islands were soon after +discovered, about ten miles to the north-north-east, +which they called the <i>Poor Knights</i>; upon +these islands there were some houses, and a few +towns that appeared fortified, and the land +round them seemed cultivated. Towards night +several canoes, with a number of Indians, came +up to the ship, and some came on board. Two +of the Chiefs received presents, and told the +gentlemen, that they had had an account of the +arrival of the English in those parts. After +their departure other Indians came up to trade, +and soon began their usual fraudulent practices; +the gentlemen had recourse to the old remedy of +firing some small shot, and a round shot, which +soon put them to flight. +</p> +<p> +Sunday the 26th, Captain Cook continued +his course slowly along the shore to the north. +This day two canoes came up, and some of the +Indians came on board, when they trafficked +very fairly. Two larger canoes soon after followed +them, and coming up to the ship, the +people in them hailed the others, when they +conferred together, and afterwards came +along-side of the ship. The last two canoes +were finely ornamented with carving, and the +people, who appeared to be of higher rank, +<span class='pagenum'>352</span>were armed with various weapons; they held +in high estimation their <i>Patoo Patoos</i>, which +were made of stone and whalebone, and they +had ribs of whale, with ornaments of dog’s hair, +which were very curious. These people were of a +darker complexion than those to the southward, +and their faces were stained blacker, with +what they call Amoco; and their thighs were +striped with it, very small interstices of the flesh +being left visible. Though they all used the +black <i>Amoco</i>, they applied it to different parts, +and in various forms. Most of them had the +figure of volutes on their lips, and one woman +in particular was curiously marked upon various +parts of her body. These Indians seemed the +superiors of the others, they were nevertheless +not free from the vice of pilfering, for one of +them having agreed to barter a weapon for a +piece of cloth, he was no sooner in possession +of the cloth, than he paddled away without +paying the price of it; but a musquet being +fired, he came back and returned the cloth. +All the canoes then returned ashore. +</p> +<p> +The Endeavour passed a remarkable point of +land, which the Captain called <i>Cape Bret</i>, in +honour of the baronet of that name: this cape +is much higher than any of the adjacent land. +Within a mile to the north-east by north is a +curious rocky island; it is arched, and has a +pleasing effect at a distance. The natives call +this <i>Cape Motugogogo</i>: it lies in latitude 35 deg. +<span class='pagenum'>353</span>10 min. 30 sec. south; and longitude 185 deg. +23 min. west. It forms a bay to the west, +which contains many small islands, and Captain +Cook named the point at the north-west +entrance <i>Point Pococke</i>. There are many villages +on the main as well as on the islands, which +appeared well inhabited, and several canoes, +filled with Indians, made to the ship, and after +coming along-side to trade, shewed the same +itch for cheating as the others. One of the +midshipmen was so nettled at being imposed +upon, that he had recourse to a whimsical expedient +by way of revenge; taking a fishing +line, he threw the lead with so much +dexterity, that the hook caught the Indian who +had imposed upon him by the buttocks, when +the line breaking, the hook remained in his +posteriors. These Indians were strong and well +proportioned; their hair was black, and tied +up in a bunch stuck with feathers: the Chiefs +among them had garments made of fine cloth, +ornamented with dog’s skin; and they were +tataowed like those who had last appeared. +</p> +<p> +On the 27th the Endeavour was among a number +of small islands, from which several canoes +came off; but the Indians, from their frantic +gestures, seemed disordered in their minds; +they threw their fish into the ship by handfuls, +without demanding any thing by way of barter. +Some other canoes also came up, who saluted the +ship with stones. One of the Indians, who +<span class='pagenum'>354</span>was particularly active, threw a stick at one of +the Endeavour’s men. It was then judged time +to bring them to reason, and a musquet, with +small shot was fired at him, when he fell down +in the canoe. A general terror was now spread +amongst them, and they all made a very precipitate +retreat. Among the fish obtained from +these canoes, were <i>Cavalles</i> in great plenty, and +for this reason the Captain called these islands +by the same name. +</p> +<p> +For several days the wind was so very unfavourable, +that the vessel rather lost than gained ground; +on the 29th, having weathered Cape Bret, they +bore away to leeward, and got into a large bay, +where they anchored on the south-west side of +several islands, and suddenly came into four +fathom and a half water. Upon sounding, they +found they had got upon a bank, and accordingly +weighed and dropped over it, and anchored +again in ten fathoms and a half; after +which the ship was surrounded by thirty-three +large canoes, containing near three hundred +Indians all armed. Some of them were admitted +on board, and Captain Cook gave a piece +of broad cloath to one of the Chiefs, and some +small presents to the others. They traded +peaceably for some time, being terrified at the +fire arms, the effect of which they were not unacquainted +with; but whilst the Captain was +at dinner, on a signal given by one of their +Chiefs, all the Indians quitted the ship, and they +<span class='pagenum'>355</span>attempted to tow away the buoy; a musquet +was now fired over them, but it produced no +effect; small shot was then fired at them, but +it did not reach them. A musquet, loaded with +ball, was therefore ordered to be fired, and +<i>Otegoowgoow</i> (son of one of the Chiefs) was +wounded in the thigh by it, which induced them +immediately to throw the buoy overboard. To +complete their confusion a round shot was fired, +which reached the shore, and as soon as they +landed they ran in search of it. If these Indians +had been under any kind of military discipline, +they might have proved a much more +formidable enemy; but acting thus, without +any plan or regulation, they only exposed themselves +to the annoyance of fire arms, whilst +they could not possibly succeed in any of their +designs. +</p> +<p> +The Captain, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander +landed upon the island, and the Indians in the +canoes soon after came on shore. The gentlemen +were now in a small cove, and they +were presently surrounded by near four hundred +armed Indians; but the Captain not suspecting +any hostile design on the part of the natives, +remained peaceably disposed. The gentlemen +marching towards them, drew a line, intimating +that they were not to pass it; they did not infringe +upon this boundary for some time, but +at length they sung the song of defiance, and +began to dance, whilst a party attempted to +<span class='pagenum'>356</span>draw the Endeavour’s boats on shore; these +signals for an attack being immediately followed +by the Indians breaking in upon the line, +the gentlemen judged it time to defend themselves, +and accordingly the Captain fired his +musquet, loaded with small shot, which was +seconded by Mr. Banks discharging his piece, +and two of the men followed his example. +This threw the Indians into confusion, and they +retreated; but were rallied again by one of +their Chiefs, who shouted and waved his patoo +patoo. The Doctor now pointed his musquet +at this hero, and hit him; this stopt his career, +and he took to flight with the other Indians. +They retired to an eminence in a collective body, +and seemed dubious whether they should +return to the charge. They were now at too +great a distance for ball to reach them; but +these operations being observed from the ship, +she brought her broad side to bear, and by firing +over them soon dispersed them. The Indians +had in this skirmish two of their people +wounded, but none killed. Peace being thus +restored, the gentlemen began to gather celery +and other herbs; but suspecting some of the +natives were lurking about with evil designs, +they repaired to a cave, which was at a small +distance; here they found the Chief, who +had that day received a present from the Captain; +he came forth with his wife and brother, +and solicited their clemency. It appeared, that +<span class='pagenum'>357</span>one of the wounded Indians was a brother +of this Chief, who was under great anxiety +lest the wound should prove mortal; but his +grief was in a great degree alleviated, when he +was made acquainted with the different effects +of small shot and ball; he was at the same time +assured, that upon any future hostilities being +committed ball would be used. This interview +terminated very cordially, after some trifling +presents were made to the Chief and his companions. +</p> +<p> +The prudence of the gentlemen upon this +occasion, cannot be much commended. Had +these four hundred Indians boldly rushed in upon +them at once with their weapons, the musquetry +could have done very little execution; +but supposing twenty or thirty of the Indians +had been wounded, for it does not appear their +pieces were loaded with ball, but only small +shot, there would have remained a sufficient +number to have massacred them, as it appears +they do not give any quarter, and none could +have been expected upon this occasion. It is +true, when the ship brought her broad-side to +bear, she might have made great havock amongst +the Indians; but this would have been too late +to save the party on shore. +</p> +<p> +Being again in their boats, they rowed to another +part of the same island, when landing and +gaining an eminence, they had a very agreeable +and romantic view of a great number of +<span class='pagenum'>358</span>islands, well inhabited and cultivated. The inhabitants +of an adjacent town approached unarmed, +and testified great humility and submission. +Some of the party on shore, who had +been very violent for having the Indians punished +for their fraudulent conduct, were now +guilty of trespasses equally reprehensible, having +forced into some of the plantations, and +dug up potatoes. The Captain upon this occasion +shewed strict justice in punishing each of +the offenders with twelve lashes: one of them +being very refractory upon the occasion, and +complaining of the hardship, thinking an Englishman +had a right to plunder an Indian with +impunity, was flogged out of this opinion with +six additional lashes. Probably his adding +“that in this, he had only followed the example +of his superiors,” might have had no little +weight in procuring him this last sentence. +</p> +<p> +It being a dead calm on the 30th, two boats +were sent to sound the harbour, and many canoes +came up, and traded with great probity: +the gentlemen went again on shore, and met +with a very civil reception from the natives; +and this friendly intercourse continued all the +time they remained in the bay, which was several +days. Being upon a visit to the old Chief, +he shewed them the instruments used in tataowing, +which were very like those at Otaheite employed +upon the like occasion. They saw the +man who had been wounded by the ball, when +<span class='pagenum'>359</span>the attempt was made to carry off the ship’s +buoy; and though it had gone through the +fleshy part of his arm, it did not seem to give +him the least pain or uneasiness. +</p> +<p> +On Tuesday the 5th, in the morning, they +weighed anchor, but were soon becalmed, and +a strong current setting towards the shore, they +were driven in with such rapidity, that they expected +every moment to run upon the breakers, +which appeared above water not more than a +cable’s length distance; they were so near the +land, that Tupia, who was totally ignorant of +the danger, held a conversation with the Indians, +who were standing on the beach. They +were happily relieved, however, from this alarming +situation by a fresh breeze, suddenly +springing up from the shore. +</p> +<p> +The bay which they had left was called the <i>Bay +of Islands</i>, on account of the numerous islands +it contains; they catched but few fish while +they lay there, but procured great plenty from +the natives, who are extremely expert at fishing, +and display great ingenuity in the form of their +nets, which are made of a kind of grass; they +are two or three hundred fathoms in length, +and remarkably strong; and they have them +in such plenty, that it is scarce possible to go a +hundred yards upon the beach, without meeting +with numbers lying in heaps. These people +did not appear to be under the government of +any particular Chief or Sovereign, and they +<span class='pagenum'>360</span>seemed to live in a perfect state of friendship, +notwithstanding their villages were fortified. +According to their observations upon the tides, +the flood comes from the south, and there is a +current from the west. +</p> +<p> +Dec. 7, several canoes put off and followed +the Endeavour, but a breeze arising, Captain +Cook did not wait for them: on the 8th they +tacked, and stood in for the shore: and on the +9th, they were about seven leagues to the westward +of the Cavalles, and soon after came to a +deep bay, which the Captain named <i>Doubtless +Bay</i>. The wind prevented their putting in here, +and being soon after becalmed, they were visited +by several canoes from shore, with whom +they trafficked. From these Indians they learnt, +they were about two days sail from <i>Moore Whennua</i>, +where the land changed its shape, and instead +of extending to the westward, turned to +the south; and that to the north-north-west +there was an extensive country, named <i>Ulimaroah</i>, +where the inhabitants lived upon hogs, +which they called <i>Booah</i>, and was the same name +given them by the inhabitants of the islands in +the South Seas. They saw upon the coast several +plantations, of the Eaowte, or cloth trees, +and some of the Koomarra. They beat to +windward four days, and made but little way. +On the 10th, the land appeared low and barren, +but was not destitute of inhabitants; the +next morning, they stood in with the land, +<span class='pagenum'>361</span>which forms a peninsula, and which the Captain +named <i>Knuckle Point</i>. Another bay, that +lies contiguous, Captain Cook called <i>Sandy Bay</i>, +in the middle of it is a high mountain, which +was named <i>Mount Camel</i>, on account of its +resembling that animal. Several canoes put +off, but could not reach the ship, which now +tacked and stood to the northward, till the afternoon +of the 12th, when she stood to the +north-east. Towards night it began to rain +and blow, and in the morning it was so tempestuous, +as to split the main-top-sail, and the +fore mizen-top-sails. Early in the morning of +the 14th, they saw land to the southward; and +on the 15th, they tacked and stood to the westward; +next day they discovered land from the +mast-head to the south-south-west; and on the +16th came off the northern extremity of New +Zealand, which the Captain called <span class="small-caps">North Cape</span>. +It lies in latitude 34 deg. 22 min. south, longitude +186 deg. 55 min. west, and forms the +north point of Sandy Bay. Their situation +varied but little till the 24th, when they discovered +land, which they judged to be the islands +of the Three Kings, though they did not resemble +the description of them in Dalrymple’s account. +The chief island is in latitude 34 deg. +12 min. south, longitude 187 deg. 48 min west, +between fourteen or fifteen leagues from North +Cape. Mr. Banks went out in the small boat, +and caught some birds that greatly resembled +<span class='pagenum'>362</span>geese, and they were very good eating. On +the 27th, it blew very hard from the east all +day, accompanied with heavy showers of rain, +and they brought the ship under a reef main-sail. +On the 30th they saw land, bearing north-east, +which was thought to be Cape Maria Van +Diemen, but the sea being very boisterous, they +did not venture to approach it, but tacked about +and stood to the north-west. +</p> +<p> +January 1, 1770, they tacked and stood to +the eastward; and on the 3d they saw land again; +it was high and flat, and tended away +to the south-east, beyond the reach of the naked +eye. It is remarkable, that the Endeavour was +three weeks in making ten leagues to the westward, +and that she met with a violent gale of +wind in latitude 35 deg. south, at Midsummer. +On the morning of the 4th they stood along the +shore, the coast appearing sandy and barren, +dreary and inhospitable; steering northward on +the 6th they saw land again, which they imagined +to be Cape Maria: on the 7th, they had +light breezes, and were sometimes becalmed, +when they saw a sun-fish, short and thick in +figure, with two large fins, but scarce any tail, +resembling a shark in colour and size. They +continued steering east till the 9th, when they +perceived land, and were soon after a-breast of +a point, which Captain Cook named <i>Woody-head</i>. +From the south-west there is a small +island, which the Captain called <i>Gannet Island</i>. +<span class='pagenum'>363</span>Another point remarkably high to the east-north-east, +the Captain named <i>Albetross Point</i>, +on the north side of which a bay is formed that +promises good anchorage. At about two leagues +distance from Albetross Point to the north-east, +they discovered a remarkable high mountain, +equal in height to that, of Teneriffe, the summit +of which was covered with snow, and it was +named Mount <i>Egmont</i>. It is in latitude 39 deg. +16 min. longitude 185 deg. 15 min. west, and +the country round it is pleasant, presenting +an agreeable verdure, intersected with woods: +the coast forms an extensive cape, which the +Captain likewise called cape Egmont, in honour +of the nobleman of that name. It is about +twenty-seven leagues to the south-south-west of +Albetross Point, having two small islands to the +north, near a very high point of a conic figure. +This day some very heavy showers of rain fell, +accompanied with thunder and lightening. The +Captain proposed careening the ship here, and +taking in wood and water; and accordingly, +on the 15th, steered for an inlet; when it being +almost a calm, the ship was carried by the +current very near the shore, but got clear with +the assistance of the boats. Whilst this was +doing a sea lion made its appearance; it is a +very curious creature, and answers the description +given of it in Lord Anson’s Voyage. The +Captain sent the pinnace to examine a small cove +that appeared, but soon after recalled her, on +<span class='pagenum'>364</span>seeing the natives launch and arm their canoes. +The Endeavour anchored in a commodious part +of the bay, in sailing towards which spot an +Indian town was descried, when the inhabitants +waved their hands, seemingly to invite the Endeavour’s +people to land. In passing the point +of the bay, they observed an armed centinel on +duty, who was twice relieved. Four canoes +came from shore to visit the ship, but none of +the Indians would venture on board, except an +old man, who seemed of elevated rank: his +countrymen took great pains to prevent his +coming on board, but they could not divert him +from his purpose, and he was received with the +utmost civility and hospitality. Tupia and the +old man joined noses, according to the custom +of the country, and after receiving several presents, +he returned to his associates, when they +began to dance and laugh, and soon after retired. +The Captain and the other gentlemen +now went on shore, where they met with plenty +of wood and water, and were very successful +in fishing, catching some hundred weight in a +short time. +</p> +<p> +On the 16th the Endeavour’s people were engaged +in careening her, when three canoes +came off with a great number of Indians, and +brought several of their women with them. +This circumstance was judged a favourable +presage of their peaceable disposition, but they +soon gave proofs of the contrary, by attempting +<span class='pagenum'>365</span>to stop the long-boat that was sent on shore for +water, when Captain Cook had recourse to the +old expedient of firing some shot, which intimidated +them for the present; but they soon +gave fresh proofs of their insidious designs. +One of them snatched some paper from the Endeavour’s +people who were trading with them, +and brandishing his patoo patoo, put himself in +a threatening posture; upon which it was judged +expedient to fire some small shot at him, which +wounded him in the knee; this step put an end +to the correspondence with regard to trade; +but Tupia still continued conversing with them, +and making many inquiries concerning the curiosities +of New Zealand; he also asked them, +if they had ever before seen a ship of the magnitude +of the Endeavour; to which they replied, +they had never seen such a vessel, nor +ever heard that one had been upon the coast, +though Tasman certainly touched here, which +was only fifteen miles south of Murderer’s +bay. There is great plenty of fish in all the +coves of this bay; among others here are cuttle +fish, large breams, small grey breams, small +and large baracootas, flying gurnards, horse +mackrel, dog fish, soles, dabs, mullets, drums, +scorpenas, or rock fish, cole fish, shags, chimeras, +&c. The inhabitants catch their fish +as follows; their net is cylindrical, extended +by several hoops at the bottom, and contracted +at the top; the fish going in to feed upon what +<span class='pagenum'>366</span>is put in the net, are caught in great abundance; +there are also birds of various kinds, and in +great numbers, particularly parrots, wood pigeons, +water hens, hawks, and many different +singing birds. An herb, a species of <i>Philadelphus</i>, +was used here instead of tea; and a plant, +called Teegoomme, resembling rug cloaks, +served the natives for garments. The environs +of the cove where the Endeavour lay is covered +entirely with wood, and the supple jacks are so +numerous, that it is with difficulty passengers +can pursue their way; here is a numerous +sand-fly that is very disagreeable. The tops +of many of the hills are covered with fern. +The air of the country is very moist, and has +some qualities that promote putrefaction, as +birds that had been shot but a few hours were +found with maggots in them. The women who +accompanied the men in the canoes wore a +head-dress, which the gentlemen had no where +met with before. It was composed of black +feathers, tied in a bunch on the top of the +head, which greatly increased its height. The +manner of their disposing of their dead is very +different to what is practised in the South-sea +islands, they tie a large stone to the body, and +throw it into the sea: the gentlemen saw the +body of a woman which had been disposed of +this way, but which by some accident had disengaged +itself from the stone, floating upon +the water. The Captain, Mr. Banks, and the +<span class='pagenum'>367</span>Doctor visited another cove, about two miles +from the ship. There was a family of Indians +who were greatly alarmed at the approach of +the gentlemen, all running away except one; +but upon Tupia’s conversing with him the others +returned. They found, by the provisions of +this family, that they were cannibals, here being +several human bones that had been lately dressed +and picked; and it appeared, that a short time +before, six of their enemies having fallen into +their hands, they had killed four and eaten them, +and that the other two were drowned in endeavouring +to make their escape. They made no +secret of this abominable custom, but answered +Tupia, who was desired to ascertain the fact, +with great composure, that his conjectures +were just, that they were the bones of a man, +and testified by signs, that they thought human +flesh delicious food. Upon being asked, why +they had not eaten the body of the woman that +had been seen floating upon the water? They +replied, she had died of a disorder, and that +moreover she was related to them, and they +never ate any but their enemies. Upon Mr. +Banks’s still testifying some doubts concerning the +fact, one of the Indians drew the bone of a +man’s arm through his mouth, and this gentleman +had the curiosity to bring it away with +him. There was a woman in this family +whose arms and legs were cut in a shocking +<span class='pagenum'>368</span>manner, and it appeared she had thus wounded +herself, because her husband had lately been +killed and eaten by the enemy. +</p> +<p> +Some of the Indians brought four skulls one +day to sell, which they rated at a very high +price. The brains had been taken out, and +probably eaten, but the scalp and hair remained. +They seemed to have been dried by fire, +in order to preserve them from putrefaction. +The gentlemen likewise saw the bail of a canoe, +which was made of a human skull. In a word, +their ideas were so horrid and brutal, that they +seemed to pride themselves upon their cruelty and +barbarity, and took a peculiar pleasure in shewing +the manner in which they killed their +enemies, it being considered as very meritorious +to be expert at this destruction. The method +used was to knock them down with their +patoo patoos, and then rip up their bellies. +</p> +<p> +An amazing number of birds usually began +their melody about two o’clock in the morning, +and serenaded the gentlemen till the time of +their rising. This harmony was very agreeable, +as the ship lay at a convenient distance +from the shore, to hear it. These feathered +choiristers, like the English nightingales, never +sing in the day time. +</p> +<p> +On the 17th, the ship was visited by a canoe +from the hippah, or village; it contained, +among others, the aged Indian, of superior +<span class='pagenum'>369</span>distinction, who had first visited the English +upon their arrival. In a conference which +Tupia had with him, he testified his apprehensions, +that their enemies would very soon visit +them, and repay the compliment, for killing +and eating the four men. +</p> +<p> +On the 18th they received no visit from the +Indians, but going out in the pinnace to inspect +the bay, they saw a single man in a canoe, +fishing in the manner already described. It was +remarkable, that this man did not pay the least +attention to the people in the pinnace, but +continued to pursue his employment even +when they came along-side of him, without +once looking at them. Some of the Endeavour’s +people being on shore found three human +hip bones, close to an oven: these were +brought on board, as well as the hair of a +man’s head, which was found in a tree. The +next day a forge was set up to repair the iron +work, and some Indians visited the ship with +plenty of fish, which they bartered very fairly +for nails. +</p> +<p> +On the 20th, Mr. Banks purchased of the +old Indian a man’s head, which he seemed very +unwilling to part with; the skull had been fractured +by a blow, and the brains were extracted, +and like the others it was preserved from putrefaction. +From the care with which they kept +these skulls, and the reluctance with which they +bartered any, it was imagined they were considered +<span class='pagenum'>370</span>as trophies of war, and testimonials of +their valour. In this day’s excursion they did +not meet with a single native; the ground on +every side was quite uncultivated; but they +discovered a very good harbour. The succeeding +day the ship’s company were allowed to go +on shore for their amusement, and the gentlemen +employed themselves in fishing, in which +they were very successful. Some of the company +in their excursion met with fortifications +that had not the advantage of an elevated situation, +but were surrounded by two or three +wide ditches, with a draw-bridge, which, tho’ +simple in its structure, is capable of answering +every purpose against the arms of the natives. +Within these ditches is a fence, made with +stakes, fixed in the earth. A decisive conquest +or victory over the besieged occasions an entire +depopulation of that district, as the vanquished, +not only those who are killed, but the prisoners +likewise are devoured by the victors. From +what has been related by such unquestionable +authority, there can remain no doubt with the +unprejudiced reader, that the inhabitants of this +part of the globe are cannibals. There are, +indeed, some closet travellers, who treat every +thing as visionary, that they have not been eye-witnesses +of, and therefore disbelieve all they read, +related by real travellers, that does not square +with their own notions and ideas; but as it may +<span class='pagenum'>371</span>be impossible to convince these sceptical readers, +we shall leave them to amuse themselves with +their doubts and objections. +</p> +<figure class='max100' style='width: 49em;'> +<img src="images/401.jpg" class="w100 v_align_b" alt=""> +<figcaption><i>View of an Arched Rock on the Coast of New Zealand, with a place of Retreat on the Top of it.</i></figcaption> +</figure> +<p> +The 22d was employed by Mr. Banks +and Dr. Solander in collecting of plants, whilst +Captain Cook made some observations on the +main land on the south-east side of the inlet, +which consisted of a chain of high hills, and +formed part of the south-west side of the +streight; the opposite side extended far to the +east. He also discovered a village, and many +houses that had been deserted, and another +village that appeared to be inhabited. There +were many small islands round the coast that +seemed entirely barren, and what few inhabitants +were upon them then lived principally upon +fish. On the 24th they visited a hippah, which +was situated on a very high rock, hollow underneath, +forming a fine natural arch, one side of +which joined to the land, and the other rose out +of the sea. The inhabitants received the gentlemen +with great civility, and very readily +shewed them every thing that was curious. +This hippah was partly surrounded with a +pallisade, and it had a fighting stage like that +already described. Here they met with a cross +resembling a crucifix, which was ornamented +with feathers, and which was erected as a monument +for a deceased person; but they could +not learn how his body was disposed of. From +a conversation that Tupia had with these +<span class='pagenum'>372</span>people, a discovery was made, that an officer +being in a boat near this village, and some canoes +coming off made him imagine they had hostile +designs, and he fired upon them with ball, +which made them retire with much precipitation, +but they could not effect their retreat before +one of them was wounded. What made +this rash action the more to be lamented was, +that the Indians afterwards gave every possible +assurance that their intentions, upon this occasion, +were entirely friendly. +</p> +<p> +On the 25th the Captain, Mr. Banks, and +Dr. Solander went on shore to shoot, when they +met with a numerous family, who were among +the creeks catching fish: they behaved very +civilly, and received some trifling presents from +the gentlemen. The next day they went to +take a view of the streight, that passes between +the eastern and western seas: they accordingly +attained the summit of a hill, but it being +cloudy weather, they could not see at any considerable +distance. Here, however, they erected +a pile, leaving in it musket balls, small +shot, beads, &c. as a testimonial of this place +having been visited by Europeans. Upon +their return they met with another Indian family, +who behaved to them very respectfully, +and assisted in procuring them water. They +also visited another hippah upon a rock that was +almost inaccessible; it consisted of about ninety +<span class='pagenum'>373</span>houses, and had a fighting stage. The gentlemen +made the inhabitants some small presents, +and they in return furnished them with dried +fish. +</p> +<p> +The ship’s company were, on the 27th and +28th, engaged in making necessary repairs, and +getting her ready for sea. The next day they +were visited by Topoa, their old friend, and +some other Indians. They said, that the man +who had received a wound from the officer, near +the hippah, was dead; but this assertion proved +afterwards groundless. The Doctor and Mr. +Banks often went on shore whilst the ship was +preparing for sea, and made several observations +upon the coast to the north-west: they +perceived an island, at about ten leagues distance, +between which and the main there were +several smaller islands. The Captain also went +on shore, and erected another pyramid of stones, +in which he put some bullets, beads, &c. as +before, with the addition of a piece of silver +coin, and placed part of an old pendant on the +top, to distinguish it. Some of the people who +had been sent out to gather celery, met with +several of the natives, among whom were some +women, whose husbands had lately fallen into +the hands of the enemy, and they were cutting +many parts of their body in the most shocking +manner with sharp stones, in testimony of their +excessive grief. What made this ceremony appear +ridiculous as well as shocking, was, that +<span class='pagenum'>374</span>the male Indians, who were with them, paid +not the least attention to it, but with the greatest +unconcern imaginable, employed themselves +in repairing some empty huts upon the spot. +</p> +<p> +On Tuesday the 30th, two posts were erected, +inscribed with the ship’s name, &c. as usual; +one was placed at the watering-place, with the +Union flag upon it, and the other in the same +manner, on the island of <i>Motuara</i>; and the inhabitants +being informed, that these posts were +meant as memorials of the Endeavour having +touched at this place, promised never to destroy +them. The Captain then named this inlet +<i>Queen Charlotte’s Sound</i>; and took possession of +it in the name, and for the use of his Majesty, +and a bottle of wine was drank to the Queen’s +health. +</p> +<p> +The Captain made the old man some presents; +among others there were a silver three-pence +and some spike nails, with the broad arrow upon +them. Topoa being questioned concerning a +passage into the eastern sea, answered, that +there certainly was such a passage; and he also +informed the Captain, that the land to the +south-west of the streight, where he then was, +consisted of two islands, named <i>Tovy Poennammoo</i>, +and that it would take about two days to sail +round them; he added, that there was a third +island to the east, called <i>Eaheinomauwe</i>, which +was of considerable extent; and that the land +contiguous to this inlet was called <i>Tiera Witte</i>. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>375</span>Towards night, on the 31st, a brisk gale +arose, attended with heavy showers, and the +next morning the weather became so very tempestuous, +that the Endeavour had her hawser +broke, and several casks of water that had been +left on shore were washed away with the rain. +</p> +<p> +The 2d, 3d and 4th of February, were chiefly +spent in preparing for their departure, and +purchasing fish of the natives, who confirmed +the accounts that Topoa had given, respecting +an eastern passage and the adjacent islands. +Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were in the mean +while chiefly engaged in collecting seeds and +shells of different kinds. They got under sail +the 5th, but the wind not continuing, they +came again to an anchor. Topoa visited the +gentlemen again to bid them farewel; and +being questioned, whether he had ever heard +that such a vessel as the Endeavour had touched +there, he answered in the negative; but added, +there was a tradition of a small vessel coming +from a place called <i>Ulimaroa</i> (a distant country +to the north) that there were only four men in +her, and that they were all put to death. +</p> +<p> +Mr. Banks and the Doctor went again on +shore, in search of natural curiosities, when +they met with a very amiable Indian family, +among whom was a widow, and a pretty youth +about ten years of age. She had just lost her +husband, and was performing the ceremony of +the country upon the occasion. They behaved +<span class='pagenum'>376</span>with the utmost hospitality and courtesy, and +endeavoured to prevail with the gentlemen to +stay all night, but they expecting the ship to +sail, could not accept of the invitation. This +family seemed the most enlightened and intelligent +set of Indians the gentlemen had as yet +met with, which made them regret they had +not fallen into their company before, as they +would probably have derived much information +from them. +</p> +<p> +On the 6th of February, in the morning, the +Endeavour sailed out of the bay, which the ship’s +company, from an abhorrence of the brutal +custom that prevails here of eating men, called +<i>Cannibal Bay</i>. They bent their course to an +opening on the east; in the evening, being in +the mouth of the streights, they were becalmed +in latitude 41 deg. south, longitude 184 +deg. 45 min. west. The two points which form +this entrance, were named cape Koomaroo, and +point Jackson. The natives call the land about +it Totarranue; and the harbour, which the +Captain named <i>Ship Cove</i>, is very safe and commodious. +A ship may enter it either between +Motuara and the island of Hamote, or between +the western shore and Motuara. Care, however, +must be taken to attend to the tides; when there +is little wind they flow about nine or ten o’clock +at the full and change of the moon, and rise +and fall about seven feet and a half, passing +through the streight from the south-east. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>377</span>The natives about this sound are not above +four hundred in number; they are scattered +along the coast, and live upon fern root and +fish; the latter of which was the only commodity +they traded in. They were not entirely +ignorant of the use of iron, bartering +their fish for nails, and often giving them the +preference to any other trifles that were offered +them; they soon rejected paper when they found +it was not water proof; nor was the cloth of +Otaheite held in much estimation by them; but +the cloths of English manufacture they highly +valued. The timber here is very good, and +fit for almost all purposes, except masts; besides +fish, which is in great plenty, here are shags, +and some other kinds of wildfowl, in abundance. +</p> +<p> +The Endeavour having left the sound, +steered eastward, and about six o’clock in the +evening they were greatly alarmed at their +being carried, by the rapidity of the current, +very close to one of the two islands which lie +off Cape Koamaroo, at the entrance of the +sounds. The ship was in such imminent danger, +that they expected every minute she would +be dashed to pieces; but letting go an anchor, +and veering one hundred and sixty fathoms of +cable, she was brought up, when they were not +above two cables length from the rocks: in +this situation they were obliged to wait for +the ebb of the tide, which was not till +after midnight; at three o’clock in the morning +<span class='pagenum'>378</span>they weighed anchor, and a fine breeze +springing up soon after, they were carried +through the streight with great velocity. +At the entrance of the streight, on the north-side, +there is a small island, which was named +<i>Entry Island</i>. The narrowest part of this streight, +which was called <i>Cooke’s Streight</i>, is between +Cape Tierawitte and Cape Koamaroo; it is +about thirteen miles long and fourteen broad; +the safest passage is on the north-east shore, the +other being rocky and dangerous. The two +eastern points of the streight Captain Cook +named <i>Cape Palliser</i> and <i>Cape Campbell</i>; the +first is in latitude 41 deg. 44 min. south; longitude +183 deg. 45 min. west; and the latter +in latitude 41 deg. 34 min. south-east, and longitude +183 deg. 58 min. west. The Endeavour +was now about three leagues from land, +facing a deep bay, which was called <i>Cloudy Bay</i>. +Some of the gentlemen on board expressing a +doubt that Eahienomauwe was not an island, +the Endeavour steered south-east, in order to +ascertain whether it was or not; upon the wind’s +shifting, she stood eastward, and steered all +night north-east by east. They were off Cape +Palliser next morning (the 8th) when they discovered +that the land reached away to the north-east +towards Cape Turnagain. Three canoes +came off in the afternoon, with several people +in them; they made a good appearance, and +their canoes were ornamented like those of the +<span class='pagenum'>379</span>Indians of the northern coast. They came on +board without the least hesitation, and behaved +very civilly; a mutual exchange of presents +took place, which was the first instance they +met with of such courtesy among any of the +Indians. By their asking for <i>Whow</i>, which signified +nails, it was imagined they had heard of +the Endeavour’s people from the inhabitants +of some other place where she had touched. +They resembled the natives of Tolaga Bay in +their dress. One old man was tataowed in a +very remarkable manner; he was likewise marked +with a streak of red paint across the nose, +and over both cheeks; his hair was quite white +as well as his beard. His garment was made +of flax, with a wrought border, under which was +a kind of petticoat, made of a cloth called +Aooree Waow; his ears were decorated with +teeth and pieces of green stone. His voice was +soft and low, and he appeared, upon the whole, +to be a person of distinguished rank. These +Indians retired greatly satisfied with the presents +they had received; and the Endeavour, after +parting from them, steered coastwise, till the +9th in the morning, which being a clear day, +it was easily determined that Eahienomauwe was +certainly an island. +</p> +<p> +On the 14th of February about sixty Indians, +in four double canoes, came within a +stone’s cast of the ship, which they beheld with +surprise. Tupia endeavoured to persuade them +<span class='pagenum'>380</span>to approach nearer, which they refused, and +made towards the shore, but did not reach +it till after it was dark. From the behaviour +of these people, the place from whence they +came was called the <i>Island of Lookers-on</i>. On +the 17th of this month they saw an island, five +leagues from the coast of Tovy Poenammoo, +which was called after the name of Mr. Banks. +This island appeared to be inhabited, as they +saw a few Indians on it, and in one place beheld +the smoke of a fire. As no farther signs +of land appeared to the southward, they steered +to the west on Sunday the 18th, and made +various way till the 23d, when it fell calm. Mr. +Banks took this opportunity to go a shooting +in his boat; when he shot some Port Egmont +hens, like those found on the island of Faro, +and were the first they had seen on this coast. +On Sunday the 25th they saw a point of land, +in 45 deg. 35 min. south latitude, which Captain +Cook named <span class="small-caps">Cape Saunders</span>, in honour +of the Admiral of that name. They kept at a +small distance from the shore, which is interspersed +with hills that are green, and abound in +trees; but they did not see a single inhabitant. +They had various winds and seas till the 4th +of March, when they saw several whales and +seals.⁠—On the 9th they saw a ledge of rocks, +and soon afterwards another ledge, three leagues +from the shore, which they passed to the north +during the night, and discovered the others under +<span class='pagenum'>381</span>their bow at day-break. Thus they had a +narrow escape from destruction; and these +ledges of rocks were denominated the <span class="small-caps">Traps</span>, +from their being adapted to entrap the unwary. +The southermost point of this land they called +<span class="small-caps">South Cape</span>, and indeed it proved to be the +southern extremity of the whole country. +</p> +<p> +In the morning they sailed northward, and, +on the day following, discovered a barren rock, +about a mile in circumference, very high, and +five leagues from the main land. This was +called <span class="small-caps">Solander’s Island</span>. On the 13th they +discovered a bay, which contains several islands, +behind which, if there be depth of water, +there must be shelter from all winds. Captain +Cook called this <span class="small-caps">Dusky-Bay</span>, and it is remarkable +for having five high, peaked rocks, lying +off it, which look like the thumb and four fingers +of a man’s hand; whence it was denominated +<span class="small-caps">Point Five Fingers</span>. Three leagues +to the south of Dusky Bay lies the westermost +point of land on the whole coast, which was +therefore called <span class="small-caps">West-Cape</span>. +</p> +<p> +On the 14th they passed a small narrow +opening in the land, where there appeared to be +a good harbour, formed by an island. On the +land behind it were mountains covered with +snow. On the 16th they passed a point, consisting +of high red cliffs, which received the +name of <span class="small-caps">Cascade Point</span>, from a cascade of +water which fell down it in several small streams. +<span class='pagenum'>382</span>On the 18th in the morning they observed the +vallies as well as the mountains covered with +snow, which they thought had fallen in the +night, when they had rain at sea. On the 23d +they gave the name of <i>Rock’s Point</i> to a head +of land, off which lay some rocks above the +water. +</p> +<p> +They had now almost passed the whole of +the north-west coast of Tovy Poenammoo; +the face of the country afforded nothing worth +notice, but a ridge of rocks of a stupendous +height, “which Dr. Hawkesworth describes as +totally barren and naked, except where they are +covered with snow, which is to be seen in large +patches in many parts of them, and has +probably lain there ever since the creation of +the world; a prospect more rude, craggy, +and desolate than this country affords from +the sea, cannot possibly be conceived; for as +far inland as the eye can reach, nothing appears +but the summits of rocks, which stand +so near together, that, instead of vallies, +there is only fissures between them.” +</p> +<p> +By the 27th they had sailed round the whole +country, and determined to depart from the +coast, as soon as they had taken in a stock of +water. For this purpose the Captain went +ashore in the long-boat, and found an excellent +watering-place, and a proper birth for the ship; +which being moored, they began filling their +<span class='pagenum'>383</span>casks; while the carpenter and his crew were +employed in cutting wood. On the 30th the +Captain, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. +Solander, went in the pinnace to examine the +bay, and the land on its borders, on which the +two last mentioned gentlemen found several +plants, of a species they had not seen before. +They saw no inhabitants; but found several +Indian huts, which appeared to have been long +deserted. When they returned on board in the +evening, the ship was ready to sail, all the wood +and water being on board. A council of the +officers was now held, as to the passage they +should take to England; when it was resolved +to return by the East Indies, and with that view +to steer for the east coast of New Holland, and +then follow the direction of that coast to the +northward. +</p> +<p> +This resolution being taken, they sailed at +day-break, on Saturday March 31, 1770, and +taking their departure from an eastern point, +which they had seen on the 23d, they called it +<span class="small-caps">Cape Farewell</span>. The bay from which they +sailed was named <span class="small-caps">Admiralty Bay</span>, and the +two Capes thereof <span class="small-caps">Cape Stephens</span>, and <span class="small-caps">Cape +Jackson</span>, the names of the then Secretaries to +the Board of Admiralty. Between the island +and Cape Farewell is a bay, which they called +<span class="small-caps">Blind Bay</span>, and which Captain Cook supposes, +to be the same that is distinguished in Tasman’s +Voyage, by the name of Murderers Bay. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>384</span>We shall now proceed to give such an account +of the country and its inhabitants, as +could be acquired during the circumnavigation +of the coast. Abel Jansen Tasman, a Dutchman, +was the first European that made a discovery +of <span class="small-caps">New Zealand</span>, to which he gave the +name of <span class="small-caps">Staaten Land</span>, that is, the land of +the States General. Tasman never went on +shore, as the Indians attacked him soon after he +came to an anchor, in the bay to which he gave +the name of Murderers Bay. From the time +of Tasman’s discovery, which was in December +1642, till the present voyage, the whole +country, except that part which Tasman saw, +remained totally unknown, and has been supposed +to be part of a southern continent; but it +now proves to be two large islands, separated +by a streight, of the breadth of about twelve +miles. +</p> +<p> +The situation of these islands is between +34 and 48 degrees of south latitude, and 181 +and 194 degrees of west longitude. The natives +call the northern island Eaheinomauwe, +and the southermost Tovy Paenammoo. +</p> +<p> +Eaheinomauwe, though hilly, and in some +places mountainous, is well stored with wood, +and there is a rivulet in every valley. The soil +of the vallies is light, but is so fertile, as to be +well adapted for the plentiful production of all +sorts of the fruits, plants, and corn of Europe; +the inhabitants of which, if a settlement +<span class='pagenum'>385</span>should be effected, might supply themselves +with the necessaries and even luxuries of +life, without any extraordinary exertion of their +industry. The summer is more equally warm, +though not hotter than in England; and it is +imagined, from the vegetables that were found, +that the winter is not so severe. +</p> +<p> +Dogs and rats are the only quadrupedes that +were seen, and of the latter only a very few. +The inhabitants breed the dogs for the sole purpose +of eating them. There are seals and +whales on the coast; and they once saw a sea-lion. +The birds are hawks, owls, quails; and +there are song-birds, whose note is wonderfully +melodious. There are ducks and shags of several +sorts, not unlike those of Europe; and +the gannet, which is exactly the same. The +sea-coast is visited by albatrosses, sheerwaters, +pintados and penguins, descriptions of which +have been given in other voyages. The insects +are flesh-flies, beetles, butterflies, sand-flies and +musquitos. +</p> +<p> +Tovy Poenammoo appears to be a barren +country, is very mountainous, and almost destitute +of inhabitants. +</p> +<p> +The sea which washes these islands abounds +with fish, which are equally delicate and wholesome +food. They seldom came to anchor but +they catched enough, with hook and line only, +to supply the whole ship’s crew: and, when +they fished with nets, every mess in the ship, +<span class='pagenum'>386</span>except those who were too indolent, salted as +much as supplied them when at sea for several +weeks after. The fish was not less various in +kind than plentiful in quantity: there were many +sorts they had never before seen; but the +sailors readily gave names to all of them. They +had several sorts of mackrel, one of which was +the same as we eat in England. These fish were +catched by the natives in immense quantities, +and sold to the crew on the most moderate terms: +but the richest dainty these seas afforded was the +sea cray-fish, which differ from those seen in +England, by having more prickles on the back, +and being red when first catched. These they +purchased of the natives on the north coast, who +dive for them, and find where they lie with +their feet. They had several kinds of skate, +and a kind of dog-fish, of a more delicate flavour, +though otherwise similar to the skate eaten +in London. Eels, congers, clams, oysters, +cockles, and flat-fish, resembling both soles and +flounders, were likewise found in great plenty +on this coast. +</p> +<p> +This country abounds with forests, filled +with very large, strait, and clean timber. There +is one tree about the size of an oak, which was +distinguished by a scarlet flower, that appeared +to be composed of several fibres; and another +which grows in swampy ground, very strait and +tall, bearing small bunches of berries, and a +leaf resembling that of the yew tree. About +<span class='pagenum'>387</span>four hundred species of plants were found, all of +which are unknown in England, except garden +night-shade, sow-thistle, two or three kinds of +fern, and one or two sorts of grass. They found +wild celery, and a kind of cresses, in great abundance, +on the sea shore; and of eatable +plants raised by cultivation, only coccos, yams, +and sweet potatoes. There are plantations of +many acres of these yams and potatoes. The +inhabitants likewise cultivate the gourd; and +the Chinese paper mulberry-tree is to be found, +but in no abundance. There is only one shrub +or tree in this country which produces fruit, +and that is a kind of berry almost tasteless: but +they have a plant which answers all the uses of +hemp and flax. There are two kinds of this +plant, the leaves of one of which are yellow, +and the other a deep red, and both of them resemble +the leaves of flags. Of these leaves they +make lines and cordage, and much stronger +than any thing of the kind in Europe. These +leaves they likewise split into breadths, and tying +the slips together, form their fishing-nets. +Their common apparel, by a simple process, is +made from the leaves, and their finer, by another +preparation, is made from the fibers. +This plant is found both on high and low ground, +in dry mould, and in deep bogs; but as it +grows largest in the latter, that seems to be its +proper soil. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>388</span>Our adventurers were of opinion, that no +part of this country is peopled but the sea coast; +so that the number of inhabitants is greatly disproportioned +to the extent of country; and the +settling a colony there, is recommended as an +object worthy the notice of Great Britain. +</p> +<p> +The men of this country are as large as the +largest Europeans. Their complexion is brown, +but little more so than that of a Spaniard. +They are full of flesh, but not lazy and luxurious; +and are stout and well shaped. The women +possess not that delicacy which distinguishes +the European ladies; but their voice is singularly +soft, which, as the dress of both sexes is +similar, chiefly distinguishes them from the men. +The men are active in a high degree; their hair +is black, and their teeth are white and even. +The features of both sexes are regular; they enjoy +perfect health, and live to a very advanced +age. They are of the gentlest dispositions, and +treat each other with the utmost kindness: but +they are perpetually at war, every little district +being at enmity with all the rest. This is owing, +most probably, to the want of food in sufficient +quantities, at certain times. They have neither +black cattle, sheep, hogs, nor goats; so +that their chief food being fish, and that not at +all times to be obtained, they are in danger of +dying through hunger. They have a few, and +but a very few dogs; and when no fish is to be +got, they have only vegetables, such as yams +<span class='pagenum'>389</span>and potatoes, to feed on; and if, by any accident, +these fail them, their situation must be +deplorable. This will account for their shocking +custom of eating the bodies which are slain +in battle; for he who fights through mere hunger, +will not scruple to eat the adversary he has +killed. +</p> +<p> +Notwithstanding this custom respecting their +enemies, the circumstances and temper of these +people are in favour of those who shall settle +among them as a colony. They are in need of +protection; and their dispositions are so sweet, +that it would be an easy task to attach them by +kindness. Civilization would be a blessing to +people, whom nature has barely furnished with +the necessaries of life. +</p> +<p> +The inhabitants of New Zealand are as modest +and reserved in their behaviour and conversation +as the most polite nations of Europe. +The women, indeed, were not dead to the +softer impressions; but their mode of consent +was, in their idea, as harmless as the consent +to marriage with us, and equally binding for +the stipulated time. If any of the English +addressed one of their women, he was informed, +that the consent of her friends must be obtained, +which usually followed, on his making +a present. This done, he was obliged to treat +his temporary wife at least as delicately as we do +in England. A gentleman who sailed in the +Endeavour having addressed a family of some +<span class='pagenum'>390</span>rank, received an answer, of which the following +is an exact translation.⁠—“Any of these +young ladies will think themselves honoured +by your addresses, but you must first make +me a suitable present, and you must then +come and sleep with us on shore, for daylight +must by no means be a witness of what +passes between you.” +</p> +<p> +These Indians anoint their hair with oil, +melted from the fat of fish or birds. The +poorer people use that which is rancid, so that +they smell very disagreeable; but those of superior +rank make use of that which is fresh. +They wear combs, both of bone and wood, +which is considered as an ornament when stuck +upright in the hair. The men tie their hair in +a bunch on the crown of the head, and adorn +it with the feathers of birds, which they likewise +sometimes place on each side of the temples. +They commonly wear short beards. The hair +of the women sometimes flows over the shoulders, +and sometimes is cut short. Both sexes, +but the men more than the women, mark their +bodies with black stains, called Amoco. In +general the women stain only the lips; but +sometimes mark other parts with black patches: +the men, on the contrary, put on additional +marks from year to year, so that those who are +very ancient are almost covered. Exclusive of +the amoco, they mark themselves with furrows. +These furrows make a hideous appearance, the +<span class='pagenum'>391</span>edges being indented, and the whole quite black. +The ornaments of the face are drawn in the +spiral form, with equal elegance and correctness, +both cheeks being marked exactly alike; +while the paintings on their bodies resemble +fillagree work, and the foliage in old chafed ornaments: +but no two faces or bodies are painted +exactly after the same model. The people +of New Zealand frequently left the breech free +from these marks; which the inhabitants of +Otaheite adorned beyond any other. These Indians +likewise paint their bodies, by rubbing +them with red oker, either dry, or mixed with +oil. +</p> +<p> +Their dress is formed of the leaves of the +flag split into slips, which are interwoven, and +made into a kind of matting, the ends, which +are seven or eight inches in length, hanging out +on the upper side. One piece of this matting +being tied over the shoulders, reaches to the +knees: the other piece being wrapped round +the waist, falls almost to the ground. These +two pieces are fastened to a string, which, by +means of a bodkin of bone, is passed through, +and tacks them together. The men wear the +lower garment only at particular times. +</p> +<p> +They have two kinds of cloth besides the +coarse matting or shag abovementioned; one of +which is as coarse, but beyond all proportion +stronger than English canvass; the other, which +is formed of the fibres of a plant, drawn into +<span class='pagenum'>392</span>threads which cross and bind each other, resembles +the matting on which we place our +dishes at table. They make borders of different +colours to both these sorts of cloth, resembling +girls samplars, and finished with great neatness +and elegance. What they consider as the most +ornamental part of their dress is the fur of dogs, +which they cut into stripes, and sew on different +parts of their apparel. As dogs are not plenty, +they dispose these stripes with great œconomy. +They have a few dresses, ornamented with feathers; +and one man was seen covered wholly +with those of the red parrot. +</p> +<p> +The women never tie their hair on the top of +their head, nor adorn it with feathers; and are +less anxious about dress than the men. Their +lower garment is bound tight round them, except +when they go a fishing, and then they are +careful that the men shall not see them. It +once happened that some of the ship’s crew surprized +them in this situation, when some of them +hid themselves among the rocks, and the rest +kept their bodies under water till they had formed +a girdle and apron of weeds; in a word, +their whole behaviour manifested the most refined +ideas of female modesty. +</p> +<p> +The ears of both sexes are bored, and the +holes stretched so as to admit a man’s finger. +The ornaments of their ears are feathers, cloth, +bones, and sometimes bits of wood; a great +many of them made use of the nails which +<span class='pagenum'>393</span>were given them by the English, for this +purpose, and the women sometimes adorned +their ears with the white down of the albatross, +which they spread before and behind the hole, in +a large bunch. They likewise hung to their ears +by strings, chissels, bodkins, the teeth of dogs, +and the teeth and nails of their deceased friends. +The arms and ancles of the women are adorned +with shells and bones, or any thing else through +which they can pass a string. The men wear +a piece of green talc, or whalebone, with the +resemblance of a man carved on it, hanging to +a string round the neck. They saw one man +who had the gristle of his nose perforated, and +a feather being passed through it, projected over +each cheek. +</p> +<p> +These people shew less ingenuity in the structure +of their houses, than in any thing else belonging +to them; they are from sixteen to twenty-four +feet long, ten or twelve wide, and six +or eight in height. The frame is of slight +sticks of wood, and the walls and roof are +made of dry grass pretty firmly compacted. +Some of them are lined with the bark of trees, +and the ridge of the house is formed by a pole, +which runs from one end to the other. The +door is only high enough to admit a person +crawling on hands and knees and the roof is +sloping. There is a square hole near the door, +serving both for window and chimney, near +which is the fire-place. A plank is placed near +<span class='pagenum'>394</span>the door, adorned with a sort of carving, and +this they consider as an ornamental piece of furniture. +The side walls and roof projecting two +or three feet beyond the walls at each end, +form a sort of portico, where benches are +placed to sit on. The fire is made in the middle +of a hollow square in the floor, which is enclosed +with wood or stone. They sleep near +the walls, where the ground is covered with +straw for their beds. +</p> +<p> +Some who can afford it, and whose families +are large, have three or four houses, enclosed +within a court yard. Their cloaths, arms, +feathers, some ill-made tools, and a chest, in +which all these are deposited, form all the furniture +of the inside of the house. Their hammers +to beat fern-root, gourds to hold water, +and baskets to contain provisions, are placed +without the house. +</p> +<p> +One house was found near forty feet long, +twenty wide, and fourteen high. Its sides were +adorned with carved planks of workmanship +superior to the rest; but the building appeared +to have been left unfinished. +</p> +<p> +Though the people sleep warm enough at +home, they seem to despise the inclemency of +the weather, when they go in search of fish or +fern-roots. Sometimes, indeed, they place a +small defence to windward; but frequently sleep +under bushes, with their arms placed round +them, without the least shelter whatever. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>395</span>Besides the fern-root, which serves them for +bread, they feed on albatrosses, penguins, and +some other birds. Whatever they eat is either +roasted or baked, as they have no vessel in which +water can be boiled. +</p> +<p> +They saw no plantations of coccos, potatoes +and yams, to the southward, though there were +many in the northern parts.⁠—The natives drink +no other liquor than water, and enjoy perfect +and uninterrupted health.⁠—When wounded in +battle, the wound heals in a very short time +without the application of medicine; and the +very old people carry no other marks of decay +about them than the loss of their hair and teeth, +and a failure of their muscular strength:⁠—but +enjoy an equal share of health and chearfulness +with the youngest.⁠—Such are the happy +effects of exercise and temperance! +</p> +<p> +The canoes of this country are not unlike +the whale-boats of New England, being long +and narrow. The larger sort seem to be built +for war, and will hold from thirty to one hundred +men. One of these at Tolaga measured +near seventy feet in length, six in width, and +four in depth. It was sharp at the bottom, and +consisted of three lengths, about two or three +inches thick, and tied firmly together with strong +plaiting: each side was formed of one entire +plank, about twelve inches broad, and about +an inch and a half thick, which were fitted to +the bottom part with equal strength and ingenuity. +<span class='pagenum'>396</span>Several thwarts were laid from one side +to the other, to which they were securely fastened, +in order to strengthen the canoes. +</p> +<p> +Some few of their canoes, at Mercury Bay +and Opoorage, are all made entirely of one +trunk of wood, which is made hollow by fire: +but by far the greater part are built after the +plan above described. The smaller boats, +which are used chiefly in fishing, are adorned +at head and stern with the figure of a man, +the eyes of which are composed of the white +shells of sea-ears, a tongue of enormous size is +thrust out of the mouth, and the whole face is +a picture of the most absolute deformity. The +grander canoes, which are intended for war, +are ornamented with open work, and covered +with fringes of black feathers, which gives +the whole an air of perfect elegance: the +side boards, which are carved in a rude manner, +are embellished with tufts of white feathers. +</p> +<figure class='max100' style='width: 49em;'> +<img src="images/428.jpg" class="w100 v_align_b" alt=""> +<figcaption><i>A Branch of the Bread-fruit Tree.</i><br> +<i>A War Canoe.</i></figcaption> +</figure> +<p> +These vessels are rowed with a kind of paddles, +between five and fix feet in length, the +blade of which is a long oval, gradually decreasing +till it reaches the handle; and the velocity +with which they row with these paddles +is really surprising. Their sails are composed +of a kind of mat or netting, which is extended +between two upright poles, one of which is +fixed on each side. Two ropes, fastened to +the top of each pole, serve instead of sheets. +<span class='pagenum'>397</span>The vessels are steered by two men, having +each a paddle, and sitting in the stern; but +they can only sail before the wind, in which direction +they move with considerable swiftness. +</p> +<p> +These Indians use axes, adzes and chissels, +with which last they likewise bore holes. The +chissels are made of jasper, or of the bone of +a man’s arm; and their axes and adzes of a +hard black stone. They use their small jasper +tools till they are blunted, and then throw them +away, having no instrument to sharpen them +with. The Indians at Tolaga having been presented +with a piece of glass, drilled a hole +through it, and hung it round the neck. A +small bit of jasper is thought to have been the +tool they used in drilling it. +</p> +<p> +Their tillage of the ground is excellent, owing +to the necessity they are under of cultivating +or running the risk of starving. At Tegadoo +their crops were just put into the ground, +and the surface of the field was as smooth as a +garden, the roots were ranged in regular lines, +and to every root there remained a hillock. A +long narrow stake, sharpened to an edge at bottom, +with a piece fixed across a little above it, +for the convenience of driving it into the ground +with the foot, supplies the place both of plough +and spade. The soil being light, their work +is not very laborious, and with this instrument +alone they will turn up ground of six or seven +acres in extent. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>398</span>The seine, the large net which has been already +noticed, is produced by the united labour, +and is probably the joint property of a +whole town. Their fish-hooks are of shell or +bone; and they have baskets of wicker-work +to hold the fish. +</p> +<p> +Their warlike weapons are spears, darts, battle-axes, +and the patoo-patoo. The spear, +which is pointed at each end, is about sixteen +feet in length, and they hold it in the middle, +so that it is difficult to parry a push from it. +Whether they fight in boats or on shore, the +battle is hand to hand, so that they must make +bloody work of it. They trust chiefly in the +patoo patoo, which is fastened to their wrists by +means of a strong strap, that it may not be +wrenched out of their hand. These are worn +in the girdles of people of a superior rank, as +a military ornament. They have a kind of +staff of distinction, which is carried by the principal +warriors. It is formed of a whale’s rib, +is quite white, and adorned with carvings, feathers, +and the hair of their dogs; and they +sometimes carried a stick six feet long, inlaid +with shells, and otherwise adorned like the military +staff. This honourable mark of distinction +was commonly borne by the old men. +</p> +<figure class='max100' style='width: 30em;'> +<img src="images/432.jpg" class="w100 v_align_b" alt=""> +<figcaption><i>A New Zealand Warrior in the Dress of his Country.</i></figcaption> +</figure> +<p> +When they came to attack the English, there +was usually one or more thus distinguished in +each canoe. It was their custom to stop at about +fifty or sixty yards distance from the ship, +<span class='pagenum'>399</span>when the commanding officer, arising from his +seat, and putting on a garment of dog’s skin, +used to direct them how to proceed. When +they were too far from the ship to reach it either +with stone or lance, they cried out, <i>Haromai, +haromai, harre uta a patoo-patoo oge</i>.⁠—“Come +to us, come on shore, and we will kill you +all with our patoo-patoos.” During these +menaces they approached the ship, till they +came along-side, talking peaceably at intervals, +and answering whatever questions they were asked. +Then again their threats were renewed, till, +imagining the sailors were afraid of them, they +began the war-song and dance⁠—an engagement +always followed, and sometimes continued till +the firing of small shot repulsed them; at others, +only till they had satiated their vengeance by +throwing a few stones on board the ship. +</p> +<figure class='max100' style='width: 49em;'> +<img src="images/435.jpg" class="w100 v_align_b" alt=""> +<figcaption><i>The Manner in which a Native of Otaheite defies his enemy by the wry Mouth.</i><br> +<i>The manner in which the New Zealand Warriors defy their Enemies.</i></figcaption> +</figure> +<p> +In the war-dance, their motions are numerous, +their limbs are distorted, and their faces +are agitated. Their tongue hangs out of their +mouths to a vast length, and their eye-lids are +drawn so as to form a circle round the eye; they +shake their darts, brandish their spears, and +wave their patoo-patoos to and fro in the air. +They accompany this dance with a song, which +is sung in concert; every strain ending with a +loud and deep sigh. There is an activity and +vigour in their dancing, which is truly admirable; +and their idea of keeping time in music +is such, that sixty or eighty paddles will strike +<span class='pagenum'>400</span>at once against the sides of their boats, and +make only one report. +</p> +<p> +They sometimes sing, in times of peace, in +a manner resembling the war-song; but then +they do not dance with it. The women, whose +voices are exceeding soft and harmonious, likewise +sing in a melodious, but mournful manner; +and their songs appear as if sung in parts. +Their instruments of musick are, a shell, from +which they produce a sound, resembling that +made by a common horn; and a wooden pipe, +not superior in musical found to a child’s whistle. +</p> +<p> +These people fortify all their hippahs, or +towns, of which there are several between the +bay of Plenty and queen Charlotte’s sound. +In these the inhabitants of those parts constantly +reside; but near Tolaga, Tegadoo, +Hawk’s bay, and Poverty bay, there are no +towns, only single houses at a considerable +distance apart. On the sides of the hills were +erected long stages, supplied with darts and +stones, which were thought to be retreats in +time of battle, and on which, from their elevated +situation, they can combat the enemy +with these weapons to great advantage. In +these repositories they store their dried fish and +fern-roots. The inhabitants of this part of the +country were all subject to Teratu, who resided +near the bay of Plenty; and to their being thus +united under one Chief, they owed a security +unknown to the inhabitants of the other parts +<span class='pagenum'>401</span>of the country. There were several inferior +governors in Teratus’s dominions, to whom +the most implicit obedience was paid. One of +the inhabitants having robbed the English, +complaint was made to a Chief, who chastised +him by kicking and striking him; while the +thief bore his punishment with unresisting humility. +</p> +<p> +The inhabitants of the southern parts appeared +to be co-partners in their fishing-nets and +fine apparel. The latter, which probably were +obtained in war, were kept in a little hut, +destined for that use, in the centre of the town, +and the several parts of the nets, being made +by different families, were afterwards joined +together for the common use. The gentlemen +imagined, that the employment of the men consisted +in cultivating the ground, making nets, +catching birds, and fishing; while the women +were engaged in weaving cloth, procuring fern-roots, +and shell fish, and dressing food. +</p> +<p> +With regard to religion, they acknowledge +one superior being, and several subordinate. +Their mode of worship could not be learned, +nor was any place proper for that purpose seen. +There was indeed a small square area, encompassed +with stones, in the middle of which +hung a basket of fern-roots on one of their +spades. This they said was offered to the gods, +in the hope of a plentiful crop of provisions. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>402</span>The inhabitants of the southern district said, +they disposed of their dead by throwing them +into the sea; but those of the north said, they +buried them in the ground: our adventurers, +however, saw not the least sign of any grave or +monument; but the body of almost every inhabitant +bore the marks of wounds which they +had given themselves, in token of grief for the +loss or their friends and relations. Some of +these scars were newly made, which is a proof +that their friends had died while the ship’s crew +were there; yet no one saw any thing like a funeral, +as these islanders conceal every thing respecting +the dead, with the utmost caution. +</p> +<p> +A great similitude was observed between the +dress, furniture, boats and nets of the New +Zealanders, and those of the inhabitants of the +South-sea islands, which furnished a strong proof, +that the common ancestors of both were natives +of the same country. Indeed the inhabitants +of these different places have a tradition, +that their ancestors migrated from another +country many ages since; and they both agree, +that this country was called <span class="small-caps">Heawige</span>. But +perhaps a yet stronger proof that their origin +was the same, will arise from the similitude of +their language, of which the following is a +specimen. +</p> +<table class=' margetb'> +<tr> +<th class="al pl"><span class='pagenum'>403</span><span class="small-caps">New Zealand.</span></th> +<th class="al pb pl"><span class="small-caps">Otaheite.</span></th> +<th class="al pb pl"></th> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pl">Whahine,</td> +<td class="al pl">Aheine,</td> +<td class="al pl"><i>A woman</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pl">Taata,</td> +<td class="al pl">Tata,</td> +<td class="al pl"><i>People</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pl">Heoo-oo,</td> +<td class="al pl">Eraowroo,</td> +<td class="al pl"><i>The hair</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pl">Erai,</td> +<td class="al pl">Irai,</td> +<td class="al pl"><i>The brow</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pl">Mata,</td> +<td class="al pl">Matau,</td> +<td class="al pl"><i>The eyes</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pl">Ahewh,</td> +<td class="al pl">Eahoo,</td> +<td class="al pl"><i>The nose</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pl">Paparinga,</td> +<td class="al pl">Paparea,</td> +<td class="al pl"><i>The cheeks</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pl">Ateraboo,</td> +<td class="al pl">Eoboo,</td> +<td class="al pl"><i>The belly</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pl">Apeto,</td> +<td class="al pl">Pito,</td> +<td class="al pl"><i>The navel</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pl">Heromai,</td> +<td class="al pl">Harre mai,</td> +<td class="al pl"><i>Come hither</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pl">Taro,</td> +<td class="al pl">Taro,</td> +<td class="al pl"><i>Coccos</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pl">Tahai,</td> +<td class="al pl">Tohe,</td> +<td class="al pl"><i>One</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pl">Rua,</td> +<td class="al pl">Rooa,</td> +<td class="al pl"><i>Two</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pl">Torou,</td> +<td class="al pl">Torhoo,</td> +<td class="al pl"><i>Three</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pl">Ha,</td> +<td class="al pl">Ha,</td> +<td class="al pl"><i>Four</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pl">Etu,</td> +<td class="al pl">Hitoo,</td> +<td class="al pl"><i>Seven</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pl">Iva,</td> +<td class="al pl">Iva,</td> +<td class="al pl"><i>Nine</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="al pl">Heneaho,</td> +<td class="al pl">Eneeho,</td> +<td class="al pl"><i>The teeth</i>.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p> +They sailed from Cape Farewell on the 31st +of March 1770, and had fine weather and a fair +wind till the 9th of April, when they saw a tropic +bird, in the latitude of 38 degrees 29 minutes +south, a sight very unusual in so high a latitude. +On the 15th they saw an egg-bird and a +gannet; and on the day following a small land-bird +perched on the rigging, from which they +concluded they were near land; but they found +no ground with 120 fathom. On the 18th, in +the morning, they saw a pintado-bird, and some +<span class='pagenum'>404</span>Port Egmont hens, an infallible sign that land +was not very distant. At six o’clock in the +morning of the 19th they discovered land four +or five leagues distant; the southermost part of +which was called <span class="small-caps">Point Hicks</span>, in compliment +to Mr. Hicks, the first Lieutenant, who made +the discovery of it. At noon they discovered +another point of the same land, rising in a +round hillock, extremely like the Ram-Head +at the entrance of Plymouth Sound, for which +reason Captain Cook gave it the same name. +What they had yet seen of the land was low +and even, and the inland parts were green, and +covered with wood. They now saw three water-spouts +at the same time, one of which continued +a quarter of an hour. At six in the evening +the northermost point on the main land, which +was distant about two leagues, was named <span class="small-caps">Cape +Howe</span>. On the following day they had a distant +view of the country, which was in general +covered with wood, and interspersed with several +small lawns. It appeared to be inhabited, as +smoke was seen in several places. At four +o’clock the next morning they saw a high mountain, +which, from its shape, they called <span class="small-caps">Mount +Dromedary</span>, under which there is a point, +which received the name of <span class="small-caps">Point Dromedary</span>. +In the evening they were opposite a point +of land which rose perpendicularly, and was +called <span class="small-caps">Point Upright</span>. On Sunday the 22d +they were so near the shore, as to see several of +<span class='pagenum'>405</span>the inhabitants on the coast, who were of a +very dark complexion, if not perfect negroes. +At noon they saw a remarkably peaked hill, to +which the Captain gave the name of the <span class="small-caps">Pigeon-house</span>, +from its resemblance to such a building. +The trees on this island were both tall +and large; but they saw no place fit to give +shelter even to a boat. +</p> +<p> +The Captain gave the name of <span class="small-caps">Cape George</span> +to a point of land which he discovered on St. +George’s day: about two leagues to the north +of which the sea formed a bay, which, from its +shape, was called <span class="small-caps">Long Nose</span>; eight leagues +from which lies <span class="small-caps">Red-Point</span>, so called from the +colour of the soil in its neighbourhood. On +the 27th they saw several of the inhabitants +walking along the shore, four of them carrying +a canoe on their shoulders: but as they did +not attempt coming off to the ship, the Captain +took Messrs. Banks and Solander and Tupia +in the yawl, and employed four men to row +them to that part of the shore where the natives +appeared; near which four small canoes laid +close in land. The Indians sat on the rocks till +the yawl was within a quarter of a mile of the +shore, and then ran away into the woods. The +surf beating violently on the beach, prevented +the boat from landing; the gentlemen were +therefore obliged to make what observations +they could at a distance. The canoes resembled +the smaller sort of those of New Zealand. They +<span class='pagenum'>406</span>saw, with longing eyes, a great number of cabbage-trees +on shore: the other trees were of +the palm-kind, and there was no underwood +among them. +</p> +<p> +At five in the evening they returned to the +ship, and a light breeze springing up, they sailed +to the northward, where they discovered several +people on shore round a fire, who, on +their approach, retired to an eminence; soon +after which two canoes arrived on the shore, and +four men, who came in them, joined the others. +The pinnace having been sent a-head to sound, +arrived near the spot where the Indians had stationed +themselves, on which one of them hid +himself among the rocks near the landing place, +and the others retreated farther up the hill. The +pinnace keeping along shore, the Indians walked +nearly in a line with her. They were armed +with long pikes, and a weapon resembling a +cymeter, and, by various signs and words, invited +the boat’s crew to land. Those who did +not follow the boat, having observed the +approach of the ship, brandished their weapons, +and threw themselves into threatening +attitudes. The bodies, thighs and legs of two +of these, were painted with white streaks, and +their faces were almost covered with a white +powder. They talked to each other with great +emotion, and each of them held a kind of cymeter +in his hand. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>407</span>The ship having come to an anchor, they +observed a few huts, in which were some of the +natives; and saw some canoes, in each of which +was a man busily employed in striking fish with +a kind of spear. They had anchored opposite +a village of about eight houses, and observed +an old woman and three children come out of +a wood, laden with fuel for a fire: they were +met by three smaller children, all of whom, as +well as the woman, were quite naked. The +old woman frequently looked at the ship with +the utmost indifference, and, as soon as she had +made a fire, the fishermen brought their canoes +on shore, and they set about dressing their dinner +with as much composure, as if a ship had +been no extraordinary sight. +</p> +<p> +Having formed a design of landing, they +manned the boats, and took Tupia with them; +and they had no sooner come near the shore, +than two men advanced, as if to dispute their +setting foot on land. They were each of them +armed with different weapons. They called +out aloud in a harsh tone, <i>warra warra wai</i>, the +meaning of which Tupia did not understand. +The Captain threw them beads, nails and other +trifles, which they took up, and seemed to be +delighted with. He then made signs that he +wanted water, and used every possible means +to convince them that no injury was intended. +They now made signs to the boat’s crew to +land, on which they put the boat in; but they +<span class='pagenum'>408</span>had no sooner done so, than the two Indians +came again to oppose them. A musquet was +now fired between them, on the report of which +one of them dropped a bundle of lances, which +he instantly snatched up again in great haste. +One of them then threw a stone at the boat, +on which the Captain ordered a musket loaded +with small shot to be fired, which wounding the +eldest of them on the legs, he retired hastily +to one of their houses, which stood at some +little distance. The people in the boats now +landed, imagining that the wound which this +man had received would put an end to the contest; +in this, however, they were mistaken, +for he immediately returned with a kind of +shield, of an oval figure, painted white in the +middle, with two holes in it to see through. +They now advanced with great intrepidity, and +both discharged their lances at the boat’s crew, +but did not wound any of them. Another +musket was now fired at them, on which they +threw another lance, and then took to their +heels. The crew now went up to the huts, in +one of which they found the children, who had +secreted themselves behind some bark. They +looked at them, but left them without their +knowing they had been seen; and having thrown +some pieces of cloth, ribbons, beads, and other +things into the hut, they took several of their lances, +and reimbarked in the boat. The canoes +on this coast were about thirteen feet in length, +<span class='pagenum'>409</span>each made of the bark of a single tree, tied up +at the ends, and kept open in the middle by +means of sticks placed across them; their paddles +are very small, and they use two at a time. +</p> +<p> +They now sailed to the north point of the +bay, where they found a plenty of fresh water. +On taking a view of the hut where they had seen +the children, they had the mortification to find +that every Indian was fled, and that they had +left all the presents behind them. The Captain +now went in the pinnace to inspect the bay, and +saw several of the natives, who all fled as he +approached them. Some men having been +sent to get wood and water, they no sooner, +came on board to dinner, than the natives came +down to the place, and examined the casks +with great attention, but did not offer to remove +them. When the people were on shore in the +afternoon, about twenty of the natives, all +armed, advanced within a trifling distance of +them, and then stopped, while two of their +number approached still nearer. Mr. Hicks, +the commanding officer, on shore, went towards +them, with presents in his hands, and +endeavoured, by every possible means, to assure +them of his friendly intentions, but to no purpose, +for they retired before he came up to +them. In the evening Messrs. Banks and Solander +went with the Captain to a cove north of +the bay, where they catched between three and +four hundred weight of fish, in four hauls. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>410</span>On Monday the 30th the natives came down +to the huts before it was light, and were repeatedly +heard to shout very loud; and soon after +day-break they were seen on the beach; but +quickly retired about a mile, and kindled several +fires in the woods. This day some of +the ship’s crew being employed in cutting grass, +at a distance from the main body of those on +shore, a party of Indians made towards them; +on which the grass-cutters retreated to the main +body, while the natives pursued them; but +stopping within fifty or sixty yards of them, +they shouted several times, and retired to the +woods. In the evening they behaved exactly +in the same manner, when the Captain followed +them alone and unarmed for some time, but +they still retired as he approached. +</p> +<p> +On Tuesday May the first, the south point +of the bay was named <i>Sutherland Point</i>, one +of the seamen, of the name of Sutherland, having +died that day, and been buried on shore. +This day Messrs. Banks, Solander, the Captain +and a few other gentlemen, went on shore, and +left more presents in the huts, such as looking-glasses, +combs, &c. but the former ones had +not been taken away.⁠—Making an excursion +about the country, they found it agreeably variegated +with wood and lawn. The trees being +strait and tall, and without underwood, the +country might be cultivated without cutting +down one of them. The grass grows in large +<span class='pagenum'>411</span>tufts, almost close to each other, and there is a +great plenty of it. In this excursion they met +with many places where the inhabitants had slept +without shelter; but they saw only one man, +who ran away the moment he beheld them. +They left more presents, in their huts, and at +their sleeping-places, in hopes of producing a +friendly intercourse. They saw the dung of an +animal which fed on grass, and traced the foot-steps +of another, which had claws like a dog, +and was probably about the size of a wolf: they +discovered the track of a small animal, whose +foot was like that of a pole-cat; and saw one +animal alive, about the size of a rabbit. They +found some wood which had been felled, and +the bark stripped off by the natives; and saw +several growing trees, in which steps had been +cut, for the convenience of ascending them. +The trees abounded with a vast variety of beautiful +birds, among which were cockatoos, parroquets +and loriquets, which flew in large +flocks. +</p> +<p> +The second Lieutenant, Mr. Gore, having +been with a boat to dredge for oysters, saw some +Indians, who made signs for him to come on +shore, which he declined. Having finished his +business, he sent the boat away, and went by +land with a Midshipman, to join the party that +was getting water. In their way they met with +more than twenty of the natives, who followed +them so close, as to come within a few yards +<span class='pagenum'>412</span>of them. Mr. Gore stopped and faced them; +on which the Indians stopped also, and when +he proceeded again they followed him; but +they did not attack him, though they had each +man his lance. The Indians coming in sight of +the Waterers, stood still at the distance of a +quarter of a mile, while Mr. Gore and his companion +reached their shipmates in safety. Two +or three of the Waterers now advanced towards +the Indians; but observing they did not retire, +they very imprudently turned about, and retreated +hastily; this apparent cowardice inspirited +the savages, who discharged four lances at +the fugitives, which flying beyond them, they +escaped unhurt. They now stopped to pick up +the lances, on which the Indians retired in their +turn. At this instant the Captain came up, +with Messrs. Banks, Solander, and Tupia; and +advancing, made signs of friendship; but the +poor natives would not wait their coming up to +them. +</p> +<p> +On the following day they again went on +shore, where many plants were collected by Dr. +Solander and Mr. Banks. They saw several +parties of the Indians, who all ran away on +their approach. Tupia having learnt to shoot, +frequently strayed alone to shoot parrots; and +the Indians constantly fled from him with as +much precipitation as from the English. On +the 3d of May, fourteen or fifteen Indians, in +the same number of canoes, were engaged in +<span class='pagenum'>413</span>striking fish within half a mile of the watering-place. +At this time a party of the ship’s crew +were shooting near the fishermen, one of whom +Mr. Banks observed to haul up his canoe on the +beach, and approach the people who were shooting. +He watched their motions, unobserved by +them, for more than a quarter of an hour, then +put off his boat, and returned to his fishing. +</p> +<p> +At this time the Captain, with Dr. Solander +and another gentleman, went to the head of +the bay to try to form some connexion with the +Indians. On their first landing they found several +Indians on shore, who immediately retreated +to their canoes, and rowed off. They +went up the country, where they found the soil +to be a deep black mould, which appeared to +be calculated for the production of any kind of +grain. They saw some of the finest meadows +that were ever beheld, and met with a few +rocky places, the stone of which is sandy, and +seemed to be admirably adapted for building. +In the woods they found a tree bearing cherries, +if shape and colour may entitle them to that +name, the juice of which was agreeably tart. +They now returned to their boat, and seeing a +fire at a distance, rowed towards it, but the Indians +fled on their approach. Near the beach +they found seven canoes, and as many fires, +from whence they judged that each fisherman +had dressed his own dinner. There were oysters +lying on the spot, and some muscles roasting +<span class='pagenum'>414</span>on the fire. They ate of these fish, and left +them some beads and other trifles in return. +They now returned to the ship; and in the evening +Mr. Banks went out with his gun, and saw +a great number of quails, some of which he +shot, and they proved to be the same kind as +those of England. +</p> +<p> +On the following day a Midshipman having +strayed from his companions, came suddenly +on an old man and woman, and some children, +who were sitting naked under a tree together. +They seemed afraid of him, but did not run +away. The man wore a long beard, and both +him and the woman were grey-headed; but the +woman’s hair was cut short. This day, likewise, +two of another party met with six Indians +on the border of a wood, one of whom calling +out very loud, a lance was thrown from the +wood, which narrowly missed them. The +Indians now ran off; and, on looking round, +they saw a youth descend from a tree, who had +doubtless been placed there for the purpose +of throwing the lance at them. This day the +Captain went up the country on the north-side +of the bay, which he found to resemble the +moory grounds of England; but the land was +thinly covered with plants about sixteen inches +high. The hills rise gradually behind each other +to a great distance, and between them is +marshy ground. Those who had been sent out +to fish this day met with great success; and the +<span class='pagenum'>415</span>second Lieutenant struck a fish called the sting-ray, +which weighed near two hundred and fifty +pounds. The next morning a fish of the same +kind was catched, which weighed three hundred +and fifty pounds. +</p> +<p> +The name of <span class="small-caps">Botany Bay</span> was given to +this place, from the large number of plants +collected by Messrs. Banks and Solander. This +country produces two kinds of wood which may +be deemed timber; one of which is tall and +strait, like the pine, and the other is hard, +heavy, and dark-coloured, like <i>lignum vitæ</i>; it +yields a red gum, like <i>sanguis draconis</i>, and +bears some resemblance to an English oak. +There are mangroves in abundance, several +kinds of palm, and a few shrubs. Among +other kinds of birds, crows were found here, +exactly like those of England. There is great +plenty of water-fowl among the flats of sand +and mud; one of which is shaped like a pelican, +is larger than a swan, and has black and white +feathers. These banks of mud abound with +cockles, muscles, oysters, and other shell-fish, +which greatly contribute towards the support +of the natives, who sometimes dress them on +shore, and at other times in their canoes. They +likewise catch many other sorts of fish with hook +and line. +</p> +<p> +While captain Cook remained in the harbour, +the English colours were displayed on shore, +daily, and the name of the ship, with the date +<span class='pagenum'>416</span>of the year, was carved on a tree near the place +where they took in their water. +</p> +<p> +They sailed from <span class="small-caps">Botany Bay</span> on the 6th of +May, 1770; at noon were off a harbour which +they called <span class="small-caps">Port Jackson</span>, and in the evening, +near a bay, to which they gave the name of +<span class="small-caps">Broken Bay</span>. The next day, at noon, the +northermost land in sight projected so as to justify +the calling it <span class="small-caps">Cape Three Points</span>. On +Wednesday the 9th, they saw two exceeding +beautiful rainbows, the colours of which were +strong and lively; and those of the inner one so +bright, as to reflect its shadow on the water. +They made a complete semicircle, and the +space between them was much darker than the +rest of the sky. On Thursday they passed a +low rocky point, which was named <span class="small-caps">Point Stephens</span>, +near which was an inlet, denominated +<span class="small-caps">Port Stephens</span>. Next day they saw smoke in +several places on the shore; and in the evening +discovered three remarkably high hills, near +each other, which the Captain named the +<span class="small-caps">Three Brothers</span>. +</p> +<p> +On Sunday the 13th they saw the smoke of +many fires on a point of land, which was therefore +called <span class="small-caps">Smokey Cape</span>. As they proceeded +northward from <span class="small-caps">Botany Bay</span>, the land appeared +high and well covered with wood. On +Tuesday morning, by the assistance of their +glasses, they discovered about a score of the Indians, +each loaded with a bundle, which they +<span class='pagenum'>417</span>imagined to be palm-leaves, to thatch their houses. +They traced them for more than an hour, during +which time they took not the least notice of +the ship; at length they left the beach, and +were lost behind a hill, which they gained by a +gentle ascent.⁠—At noon the Captain discovered +a high point of land, which he called <span class="small-caps">Cape +Byron</span>. In the evening they discovered breakers +at a considerable distance from the shore; so +that they were obliged to tack, and get into +deeper water; which having done, they lay with +the head of the vessel to the land till the next +morning, when they were astonished to find +themselves farther to the southward than they +had been the preceding evening, notwithstanding +they had a southerly wind all night. In the +morning they passed the breakers, near a peaked +mountain, which was named <span class="small-caps">Mount Warning</span>; +and the point off which they lay was called +<span class="small-caps">Point Danger</span>. The next day they saw more +breakers, near a point which was distinguished +by the name of <span class="small-caps">Point Look-out</span>, to the north +of which lies a bay, which Captain Cook called +<span class="small-caps">Moreton’s Bay</span>; and the north point of +which he named <span class="small-caps">Cape Moreton</span>. Near this +place are three hills, which were called the +<span class="small-caps">Glass Houses</span>, from the very strong resemblance +they bore to such buildings. +</p> +<p> +On the 18th they descried a point so unequal, +that it looks like two small islands lying +under the land; and it was therefore called +<span class='pagenum'>418</span><span class="small-caps">Double Island Point</span>. At noon, by the help +of glasses, they discovered some sands, which +lay in spots of several acres, which they observed +were moveable, and that some of them had +not been long in their present situation, as they +saw trees half buried, and the tops of others +still green; likewise the naked trunks of some +that had been destroyed by the sand. At this +time two beautiful water-snakes swam by the +ship, which seemed to be distinguished from +land-snakes, only by their broad and flat tails, +which it was thought were useful to them in +swimming. On the 19th they sailed by a +point of land, on which a large number of the +Indians were assembled, from whence it was +called <span class="small-caps">Indian Head</span>. They soon afterwards +saw many more of the natives, and observed +smoke in the day-time, and fires by night. The +next day they saw a point, which was named +<span class="small-caps">Sandy Cape</span>, from two large tracts of white +sand that were on it. They next passed a shoal +which was called <span class="small-caps">Break Sea Spit</span>, because +they had now smooth water, after having long +encountered a high sea. They had, for some +days past, seen the sea-birds, called boobies, +none of which they had met with before; and +which, from half an hour before sun-rising, to +half an hour after, were continually passing +the ship in large flights: from which it was +conjectured, that there was a river or inlet of +shallow water to the southward, where they +<span class='pagenum'>419</span>went to feed in the day, returning in the evening +to some islands to the northward. In honour +of Captain Hervey, this bay was called +<span class="small-caps">Hervey’s Bay</span>. +</p> +<p> +On the 22d, by the help of their glasses, +they discovered that the land was covered with +palm-nut trees, none of which they had seen +since they quitted the islands within the tropic. +The next morning early the Captain +took a party of men, and being attended by +Tupia, and the several gentlemen on board, +went on shore to examine the country. They +landed a little within the point of a bay, which +led into a large lagoon, by the sides of which +grows the true mangrove, as it also does on +some bogs, and swamps of salt-water which +they discovered. There were many nests of a +singular kind of ant, as green as grass, in the +branches of these mangroves. When the branches +were disturbed they came forth in great numbers, +and bit the disturber most severely. These +trees likewise afforded shelter for immense numbers +of green caterpillars, their bodies were covered +with hairs, which, on the touch, gave a +pain similar to the sting of a nettle, but much +more acute. These insects ranged themselves +side by side on the leaves, thirty or forty together, +in a very regular manner. They saw, among +the sand banks, many birds larger than +swans, which they imagined were pelicans; and +they shot a kind of bustard, which weighed seventeen +<span class='pagenum'>420</span>pounds. This bird proved very delicate +food, and gave name to the place, which was +called <span class="small-caps">Bustard-bay</span>. They likewise shot a +duck of a most beautiful plumage, with a white +beak. They found vast numbers of oysters of +various sorts, and, among the rest, some hammer +oysters of a curious kind. While the gentlemen +were in the woods, several of the natives +came down and took a survey of the ship, +and then departed. The gentlemen on shore +saw fires in many places, and repairing to one of +them, they found about a dozen small fires +burning near each other; but the people were +gone, and had left some shells and bones of fish +they had just eaten. They likewise saw several +pieces of soft bark, about the length and +breadth of a man, which they judged had been +used as beds. This kind of encampment was +in a thicket well defended from the wind; and +as the place was much trodden, and there was +no appearance of a house, it was imagined that +they spent their nights, as well as days, in the +open air: even Tupia shook his head, and exclaimed, +<i>Taata Enos!</i> “Poor wretches!” They +sailed the next morning, and on the day following +were a-breast of a point, which lying immediately +under the tropic, the Captain called +<span class="small-caps">Cape Capricorn</span>, on the west side of which +they saw an amazing number of large birds resembling +the pelican, some of which were near +five feet high. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>421</span>On the 26th they stood between a range of +almost barren islands, and the main land, which +is mountainous. They had here very shallow +water, and anchored in sixteen feet, which was +not two feet more than the ship drew. Mr. +Banks tried to fish from the cabin windows, but +the water was too shallow. The ground indeed +was covered with crabs, which greedily seized +the bait, and held it till they were above water. +These crabs were of two kinds, one of a +very fine blue, with a white belly, and the other +marked with blue on the joints, and having +three remarkable brown spots on the back. +The Captain having sent some men in a boat +a-head to sound, they returned with an account, +that there was not water enough for the ship to +pass through, upon which they tacked about +and stood back again. In the morning they +sailed to the northward, and to the northermost +point of land the Captain gave the name of +<span class="small-caps">Cape Manifold</span>, from the number of high +hills appearing above it. Between this cape +and the shore is a bay called <span class="small-caps">Keppel’s Bay</span>, and +some islands bearing the name of the same gentleman. +On the 28th, being determined to keep +the main land close aboard, which continued to +tend away to the west, they got among another +cluster of islands; they were here again greatly +alarmed, having on a sudden but three fathom +water, in a ripling tide; they immediately put +the ship about, and hoisted out the boats in +<span class='pagenum'>422</span>search of deeper water; after which they stood to +the west with an easy sail, and in the evening, +came to the entrance of a bay. On the 29th, +in the morning, the master was sent with two +boats to sound the bay; and the ship was no +sooner under sail, than the boats made the signal, +and the ship accordingly came to an anchor. +As they observed the tide to flow and +ebb considerably, they imagined this bay to be +the entrance of a river which ran up the country: +in this place therefore the Captain intended +to lay the ship a-shore and clean her bottom; +and accordingly landed, in search of a proper +place for the purpose. +</p> +<p> +In this excursion Messrs. Banks and Solander +attended Captain Cook. They found walking +extremely incommodious, the ground being covered +with grass, the seeds of which were sharp, +and bearded, so that they were continually +sticking in their cloaths, whence they worked +forwards to the flesh, by means of the beard. +They were likewise tormented with the perpetual +stinging of musquetos. Several places were +found convenient, to lay the ship a-shore; but +they could meet with no fresh water. In the +interior parts of the country they found gum-trees, +on the branches of which were white +ants nests formed of clay, as big as a bushel. +On another tree they found black ants, which +formed their lodging in the body of it, after +they had eaten away the pith; yet the trees were +<span class='pagenum'>423</span>in a flourishing condition. They found butterflies +in such incredible numbers, that whatever +way they looked, many thousands were to be +seen in the air; while every bough and twig +was covered with multitudes. They likewise +discovered on dry ground, where it was supposed +to have been left by the tide, a fish about +the size of a minnow, having two strong breast +fins, with which it leaped away as nimbly as a +frog: it did not appear to be weakened by being +out of water, nor even to prefer that element +to the land; for when seen in the water it +leaped on shore, and pursued its way. It was +likewise remarked, that where there were small +stones projecting above the water, it chose rather +to leap from one stone to another, than to +swim through the water. +</p> +<p> +On the 30th the Captain went ashore very +early, and having gained the summit of a hill, +took a survey of the coast, and adjacent islands; +which being done, he accompanied Dr. Solander +up an inlet, which had been discovered the +preceding day; but the weather proving unfavourable, +they returned early to the ship, having +seen only two Indians, who followed the +boat a considerable way along the shore; but +the tide running strong, they did not think it +prudent to wait for them. This day Mr. +Banks went with a party on shore, and having +met with a piece of swampy ground, covered +with mangroves, they resolved to pass it, which +<span class='pagenum'>424</span>they did, up to the knees in mud, and sometimes +crawling on their hands, when they had +slipt between the branches of trees, which were +interwoven on the surface of the swamp. Having +performed this disagreeable task, they arrived +at a spot where the natives appeared to +have slept on the grass, and where there were +the remains of a fish supper, which had been +roasted by four small fires. The second Lieutenant, +at another place, saw the track of a large +animal, near a gully of water: he likewise heard +the voices of the Indians, but did not see any. +Two turtles were seen at this place, some waterfowl, +and a few small land-birds. +</p> +<p> +As no water was to be found, the Captain +called the inlet <span class="small-caps">Thirsty Sound</span>, which they +left on the 31st of May, and having sailed +round three small islands, anchored in fifteen +fathom water. On the 1st of June they got +under sail, having a number of islands in sight, +as far as the eye could reach. On the second +at noon they saw a high promontory, which was +called <span class="small-caps">Cape Hillsborough</span>, and seemed to +abound in wood and herbage, distributed on +hills, plains, and in vallies. There are a number +of small islands in this neighbourhood, on +some of which they saw smoke arising in different +places. On Sunday the 3d they discovered +a point, which was named <span class="small-caps">Cape Conway</span>, +and between that and Cape Hillsborough +a bay, which took the name of <span class="small-caps">Repulse Bay</span>. +<span class='pagenum'>425</span>The land about <span class="small-caps">Cape Conway</span> is diversified by +hills and dales, lawns and woods, and forms a +delightfully verdant appearance. By the help +of their glasses they discovered three people, on +one of the islands, and a canoe, with an outrigger, +like those of Otaheite. They this day named +the islands, <span class="small-caps">Cumberland Islands</span>, in honour +of the Duke; and a passage which they discovered +was called <span class="small-caps">Witsunday’s Passage</span>, from +the day on which it was seen. At day-break, +on Monday, they were a-breast of a point, +which took the name of <span class="small-caps">Cape Gloucester</span>. +Names were likewise this day given to three +other places, viz. <span class="small-caps">Holborne Isle</span>, <span class="small-caps">Edgcumbe +Bay</span>, and <span class="small-caps">Cape Upstart</span>, which latter was +so called, because it rises abruptly from the low +lands that surround it. +</p> +<p> +On Tuesday, when near the shore, they saw +very large columns of smoke rising from the +low-lands. This day they gave name to <span class="small-caps">Cleaveland +Bay</span>, the east point of which was called +<span class="small-caps">Cape Cleaveland</span>, and the west <span class="small-caps">Magnetical +Isle</span>, because the compass did not traverse well +when they were near it. The points, as well +as the main land within them, lay high, and +form a barren, rugged and rocky coast. On +the afternoon of Thursday they saw several +large columns of smoke, likewise some canoes, +and several natives, with some trees, that they +thought were those of cocoa-nut; in search of +which fruit Messrs. Banks and Solander went +<span class='pagenum'>426</span>ashore with Lieutenant Hicks; but they returned +in the evening with a few plants, which +they had gathered from the cabbage palm, +and which had been mistaken for the cocoa-tree. +On Friday they gave the name of <span class="small-caps">Point Hillock</span> +to a point of land; between which and +Magnetical Isle the shore forms <span class="small-caps">Halifax Bay</span>, +which affords shelter from all winds. At six this +evening they were a-breast of a point of land, +which was named Cape Sandwich, near which +lies <span class="small-caps">Rockingham Bay</span>. Hence they ranged +northward along the shore, towards a cluster of +islands, on one of which about forty men, women +and children were standing together, and looking +at the ship with a curiosity never observed +among these people before. The north point +of Rockingham bay was called <span class="small-caps">Dunk Isle</span>, +which is scarcely to be distinguished from the +shore, it lies so very near it. On Saturday +morning they were a-breast of some small islands, +which were named <span class="small-caps">Frankland’s Isles</span>; near +which lie two places, which were called <span class="small-caps">Cape +Grafton</span> and <span class="small-caps">Green Island</span>. Here Messrs. +Banks and Solander went ashore with the Captain, +whose chief view were to procure water, +which not being easily to be got, they soon returned +on board, and the next day arrived near +<span class="small-caps">Trinity Bay</span>, which was so called, because it +was discovered on Trinity Sunday. +</p> +<p> +As no accident remarkably unfortunate had +befallen our adventurers, during a navigation of +<span class='pagenum'>427</span>more than thirteen hundred miles, upon a coast +every where abounding with the most dangerous +rocks and shoals; no name expressive of +distress had hitherto been given to any cape or +point of land which they had seen. But they +now gave the name of <span class="small-caps">Cape Tribulation</span> to +a point which they had just discovered, as they +here became acquainted with misfortune. +</p> +<p> +This cape is in sixteen degrees six minutes +south latitude, and 214 degrees 39 minutes +west longitude. +</p> +<p> +At six in the evening they shortened sail, +to avoid the danger of some rocks, which were +seen a-head, and to observe whether any islands +lay in the offing, as they were now near the +latitude of those islands said to have been discovered +by Quiros. They kept standing off +from six o’clock till near nine, with a fine +breeze and bright moon. They had got from +fourteen into twenty-one fathom water; when +suddenly they fell into twelve, ten, and eight +fathom, in a few minutes. Every man was instantly +ordered to his station, and they were on +the point of anchoring, when, on a sudden, +they had again deep water, so that they thought +all danger was at an end, concluding they had +sailed over the tail of some shoals which they +had seen in the evening. They had twenty +fathom and upwards before ten o’clock, and +this depth continuing some time, the gentlemen, +who had hitherto been upon deck, retired to +<span class='pagenum'>428</span>rest; but in less than an hour the water shallowed +at once from twenty to seventeen fathom, +and, before soundings could be again taken, the +ship struck against a rock, and remained fixed, +but from the motion given her by the beating +of the surge. Every one was instantly on deck, +with countenances fully expressive of the agitation +of their minds. As they knew they +were not near the shore, they concluded they +had struck against a rock of coral, the points +of which being sharp, and the surface so rough, as +to grind away whatever is rubbed against it, tho’ +with a gentle motion; they had reason to dread +the horror of their situation! +</p> +<p> +The sails being taken in, and boats hoisted out +to examine the depth of water, they found that +the ship had been carried over a ledge of the +rock, and lay in a hollow within it. Finding +that the water was deepest eastern, they carried +out the anchor from the starboard quarter, +and applied their whole force to the capstern, +in hopes to get the vessel off, but in vain. +She now beat so violently against the rock, that +the crew could scarcely keep on their legs. +The moon now shone bright, by the light of +which they could see the sheathing boards float +from the bottom of the vessel; till at length +the false keel followed, so that they expected +instant destruction. Their best chance of escaping +seemed now to be by lightening her; +but as they had struck at high water, they would +<span class='pagenum'>429</span>have been but in their present situation, after +the vessel should draw as much less water as the +water had sunk: but their anxiety abated a little, +on finding that the ship settled to the rocks +as the tide ebbed. They, however, flattered +themselves, that if the ship should keep together +till next tide, they might have some chance +of floating her. They therefore instantly started +the water in the hold, and pumped it up. The +decayed stores, oil jars, casks, ballast, six of their +guns, and other things, were thrown overboard, +in order to get at the heavier articles; +and in this business they were employed till daybreak, +during all which time it was observed, +that not an oath was sworn; so much were the +minds of the sailors impressed with a sense of +their danger. +</p> +<p> +At day-light they saw land at eight leagues +distance; but not a single island between them +and the main, on which part of the crew might +have been landed, while the boat went on shore +with the rest; so that the destruction of the +greater part of them would have been inevitable, +had the ship gone to pieces. It happened, +however, that the wind died away to a dead +calm before noon. As they expected high water +at eleven o’clock, every thing was prepared +to make another effort to free the ship; but the +tide fell so much short of that in the night, that +she did not float by eighteen inches, though +they had thrown over-board near fifty tons +<span class='pagenum'>430</span>weight: they now, therefore, renewed their toil, +and threw over-board every thing that could +be possibly spared. As the tide fell, the water +poured in so rapidly, that they could scarcely +keep her free by the constant working of two +pumps. Their only hope now depended on the +midnight tide, and preparations were accordingly +made for another effort to get the ship off. The +tide began to rise at five o’clock, when the leak +likewise encreased to such a degree, that two +more pumps were manned; but only one of +them would work: three, therefore, were kept +going till nine o’clock, at which time the ship +righted; but so much water had been admitted +by the leak, that they expected she would sink +as soon as the water should bear her off the +rock. Their situation was now deplorable beyond +description; and the imagination must +paint what would baffle the powers of language +to describe. They knew that when the fatal +moment should arrive, all authority would be at +an end. The boats were incapable of conveying +them all on shore; and they dreaded a contest +for the preference, as more shocking than the +shipwreck itself: yet it was considered, that +those who might be left on board, would eventually +meet with a milder fate than those who, +by gaining the shore, would have no chance but +to linger the remains of life among the rudest +savages in the universe, and in a country, where +<span class='pagenum'>431</span>fire-arms would barely enable them to support +a wretched existence. +</p> +<p> +At twenty minutes after ten the ship floated, +and was heaved into deep water; when they +were happy to find that she did not admit more +water than she had done before; yet as the leak +had for a considerable time gained on the +pumps, there was now three feet nine inches +water in the hold. By this time the men were +so worn by fatigue of mind and body, that none +of them could pump more than five or six minutes +at a time, and then threw themselves, +quite spent, on the deck, amidst a stream of +water which came from the pumps. The succeeding +man being fatigued in his turn, threw +himself down in the same manner, while the +former jumped up and renewed his labour; thus +mutually struggling for life, till the following +accident had like to have given them up a prey +to absolute despair. +</p> +<p> +Between the inside lining of the ship’s bottom, +which is called the ceiling, and the outside +planking, there is a space of about seventeen +or eighteen inches. The man who had hitherto +taken the depth of water at the well, had taken +it no farther than the ceiling; but being now +relieved by another person, who took the depth to +the outside planking, it appeared by this mistake, +that the leak had suddenly gained upon the +pumps, the whole difference between the two +plankings.⁠—This circumstance deprived them +<span class='pagenum'>432</span>of all hopes, and scarce any one thought it +worth while to labour, for the longer preservation +of a life which must so soon have a period: +but the mistake was soon discovered; and +the joy arising from such unexpected good news +inspired the men with so much vigour, that before +eight o’clock in the morning they had +pumped out considerably more water than they +had shipped. They now talked confidently of +getting the ship into some harbour; and set +heartily to work to get in their anchors; one of +which, and the cable of another, they lost: but +these were now considered as trifles. Having a +good breeze from the sea, they got under sail +at eleven o’clock, and stood for the land. +</p> +<p> +As they could not discover the exact situation +of the leak, they had no prospect of stopping +it within side of the vessel; but the following +expedient, which one of the Midshipmen had +formerly seen tried with success, was adopted. +They took an old studding sail, and having +mixed a large quantity of oakham and wool, +chopped small, it was stitched down in handfuls +on the sail, as lightly as possible; the dung +of their sheep and other filth being spread over +it. Thus prepared, the sail was hauled under +the ship by ropes, which kept it extended till it +came under the leak, when the suction carried +in the oakham and wool from the surface of the +sail. This experiment succeeded so well, that, +<span class='pagenum'>433</span>instead of three pumps, the water was easily +kept under with one. +</p> +<p> +They had hitherto had no further view than +to run the ship into an harbour, and build a +vessel from her materials, in which they might +reach the East Indies; but they now began to +think of finding a proper place to repair her +damage, and then to pursue their voyage on its +original plan. At six in the evening they anchored +seven leagues from the shore; and found +that the ship made fifteen inches water an hour +during the night; but as the pumps could clear +this quantity, they were not uneasy. At nine +in the morning they passed two islands, which +were called <span class="small-caps">Hope Islands</span>, because the reaching +of them had been the object of their wishes +at the time of the shipwreck. In the afternoon +the Master was sent out with two boats to sound, +and search for a harbour where the ship might +be repaired. They anchored at sun-set, in four +fathom, two miles from the shore. One of the +Mates being out in the pinnace, returned at +nine o’clock, reporting, that he had found just +such a harbour as was wanted, at the distance +of two leagues. +</p> +<p> +At six o’clock the next morning they sailed, +having previously sent two boats a-head, to lie +on the shoals that they saw in their way. They +soon anchored about a mile from the shore, +when the Captain went out, and found the +channel very narrow, but the harbour was better +<span class='pagenum'>434</span>adapted to their present purpose, than any +place they had seen in the whole course of their +voyage. As it blew very fresh this day and the +following night, they could not venture to run +into the harbour, but remained at anchor during +the two succeeding days, in the course of +which they observed four Indians on the hills, +who stopped and made two fires. +</p> +<p> +The men by this time began to be afflicted +with the scurvy, and their Indian friend, Tupia, +was so bad with it, that he had livid spots +on both his legs. Mr. Green, the astronomer, +was likewise ill of the same disorder; so that +their being detained from landing was every +way disagreeable. The wind continued fresh +till Sunday the 17th, but they then resolved to +push in for the harbour, and twice ran the +ship a-ground; the second time of which she +stuck fast; on which they took the booms, fore-yard, +and fore-top-masts down, and made a raft +on the side of the ship; and, as the tide happened +to be rising, she floated at one o’clock. +She was now soon got into the harbour, where +she was moored along the side of a beach, and +the anchors, cables, &c. immediately taken +out of her. +</p> +<p> +On Monday morning they erected a tent for +the sick, several of whom were brought on +shore as soon as it was ready for their reception. +They likewise built a tent to hold the provisions +and stores, which were landed the same day. +<span class='pagenum'>435</span>The boat was now dispatched in search of fish +for the refreshment of the sick, but she returned +without getting any; but Tupia employed +himself in angling; and living entirely on the +produce of his industry, recovered his health +very fast. Mr. Banks, in an excursion up the +country, saw the frames of several Indian houses, +which appeared to have been abandoned some +time: while the Captain, having ascended one +of the highest hills, observed the high land to +be stoney and barren, and the low land near the +river over-run with mangroves, among which +the salt-water flowed every tide. +</p> +<p> +On Tuesday the Captain ordered the smith’s +forge to be set up, and directed the armourer +to prepare the necessary iron work for the repair +of the vessel. He likewise ordered out the officers +stores, water, &c. in order to lighten the +ship. This day Mr. Banks crossed the river to +view the country, which was little else than +sand-hills. He saw vast flocks of crows and +pigeons, of the latter of which he shot several, +which were most beautiful birds. On the day +following, as they were removing the coals, the +water rushed in, near the foremast, about three +feet from the keel; so that it was resolved to +clear the hold entirely; wherefore they took +out all the coals, and the next day warped the +ship higher up the harbour, to a station proper +for laying her a-shore, in order to stop the +leak. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>436</span>Early in the morning of the 22d the tide left +the ship, and they proceeded to examine the +leak, when they found that the rocks had cut +through four planks into the timbers, and that +three other planks were damaged. In these +breaches not a splinter was to be seen, the whole +being smooth, as if cut away by an instrument: +but the preservation of the vessel was owing +to a very singular circumstance. One of the +holes was large enough to have sunk her, even +with eight pumps constantly at work; but this +hole was in a great measure stopped up by the +fragment of the rock being left sticking in it. +They likewise found some pieces of the oakham, +wool, &c. which had got between the +timbers, and stopped many parts of the leak +which had been left open by the stone. Exclusive +of the leak, great damage was done to +various parts of the ship’s bottom. +</p> +<p> +While the smiths were engaged in making +nails and bolts, the carpenters began to work on +the vessel; and some of the crew were sent across +the river to shoot pigeons for the sick. These +people found a stream of fresh water, discovered +many Indian houses, and had sight of a +mouse-coloured animal, extremely swift, and +about the size of a greyhound. On the 23d +they saw plenty of fish, but catched only three. +This day many of the crew saw the animal above-mentioned; +and one of the seamen declared +he had seen the Devil, which he described +<span class='pagenum'>437</span>in the following words, “He was as large, says +he, as a one gallon keg, and very like it; he +had horns and wings, yet he crept so slowly +through the grass, that if I had not been +<em>afeard</em>, I might have touched him.” It appeared +afterwards, that this poor fellow had +seen a bat, which is almost black, and as large +as a partridge; and his own apprehensions had +furnished his Devil with horns. +</p> +<p> +The repairs on the starboard side having been +finished the preceding day, the carpenters began +to work under the larboard bow, on Sunday +the 24th.⁠—This day Mr. Gore and a party +procured a bunch or two of wild plantains, and +a few palm cabbages, for the refreshment of +the sick; and the Captain and Mr. Banks saw +the animal abovementioned, which had a long +tail, that it carried like a greyhound; it leapt +like a deer, and the point of its foot resembled +that of a goat. +</p> +<p> +The ship was now examined abaft, when it +was discovered, that she had received but little +injury in that quarter. The carpenters continued +to work on her whenever the tide would +permit. The vessel was now in a position which +threw all the water abaft; and Mr. Banks having +removed his whole collection of plants into +the bread-room, they were this day found under +water, by which some of them were totally +destroyed; but, by great care, most of them +were restored to a state of preservation. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>438</span>The ship being in part repaired, they twice +attempted to float her, by lashing a number of +casks under her bottom; but their endeavours +proving fruitless, they were obliged to wait for +the next spring tide. This day a plant was +found, the leaves of which were almost as good +as spinnage. They likewise found more cabbage +trees, some wild plantain, and a fruit of a +deep purple colour, and the size of a golden +pippin; which, after being kept a few days, +tasted like a damson. +</p> +<p> +The carpenter was now engaged in caulking +the ship, and the men employed in filling water +and other necessary business; while the Captain +amused himself in catching fish for the sick. +On the 28th Mr. Banks took some of the crew +up the country, to shew them a plant which +served them for greens, and which the inhabitants +of the West Indies call Indian kale. +Here they saw a tree notched for climbing, in +the same way as those seen in Botany bay. They +also met with nests of white ants, from a few +inches to five feet in height. Mr. Gore was up +the country, where he saw prints of the feet of +men, and the tracks of three or four kinds of +animals. +</p> +<p> +On the day following the boat took as many +fish as allowed a pound and an half to each +man. A Midshipman saw a wolf, exactly resembling +those of America. On the 30th the +Captain ascended a hill to take a view of the +<span class='pagenum'>439</span>sea, when, to his great concern, he observed +innumerable sand-banks and shoals, in every +direction; but there was an appearance of a +passage to the northward, the only way he +could think of getting clear, as the wind constantly +blows from the south-east. Mr. Gore +this day saw two straw-coloured animals, of +the size of a hare, but shaped like a dog. So +much fish was taken, that each man had two +pounds and a half; and plenty of greens were +gathered, which being boiled with the pease, +their fare was deemed excellent. +</p> +<p> +On Sunday July the 1st, all the men had permission +to go on shore, except one from each +mess, who went on the fishing party, and again +met with great success. A fire was this day +observed about a mile up the river. The master +having been sent in the pinnace, in search +of a channel, returned on Tuesday, with an +account that he had found a passage out to +sea, between the shoals, which consisted of coral +rocks, many of which were left dry at low +water. He found some cockles so large, that +one of them was more than sufficient for two +men; and likewise plenty of other shell-fish, +of which he brought a supply to the ship, in +his return to which he had landed in a bay where +some Indians were at supper; but they instantly +fled, leaving some sea-eggs, and a fire for the +dressing them. This day they succeeded in an +attempt to float the ship; when they found that, +<span class='pagenum'>440</span>by the position she had lain in, she had sprung +a plank, so that it was again necessary to lay +her ashore. An alligator swam by her several +times this day. +</p> +<p> +On the 4th she was laid ashore on a sand-bank, +and the next day floated at high water, and +moored off the beach, in order to receive the +stores on board. This day Mr. Banks crossed +the harbour, and found, on a sandy beach, a +great number of fruits, such as they had not +seen before; among which was a cocoa-nut, +which Tupia said had been opened by a crab, +and which was judged to be what the Dutch +call Beurs Krabbe. The vegetable substances +which Mr. Banks picked up were encrusted +with marine productions, which is said to be a +proof of their having been brought far by sea. +</p> +<p> +Mr. Banks and a party having taken a boat +up the river, on the 6th, with a view to make +an excursion in the country, returned on the +8th.⁠—They examined some parts of the country, +which differing but little from what they +had already seen, they followed the course of +the river, which they at length found contracted +into a narrow channel, bounded by steep +banks, which were adorned with trees of a +most beautiful appearance, among which was +the bark-tree. The land was low and covered +with grass, and seemed capable of being cultivated +to great advantage. They saw several +animals, one of which was judged to be a wolf. +<span class='pagenum'>441</span>At night they made a fire, and took up their +quarters on the banks of the river; but the +night was rendered extremely disagreeable by +the stings of the musquitos, which pursued +them into the smoke, and almost into the fire. +At break of day they sat out in search of game, +and saw four animals, two of which were +chaced by Mr. Banks’s greyhound; but they +greatly outstripped him in speed, by leaping +over the long thick grass, which incommoded +the dog in running. It was observed of this +animal, that he leaped or bounded forward on +two legs, instead of running on four. Having +returned to the boat, they proceeded up the +river, till it contracted to a brook of fresh water, +but in which the tide still rose considerably. +When they stopped for the night, they saw a +smoke at a small distance, on which three of +them approached it, but the Indians were gone. +They saw the impression of feet on the sand, +below high-water mark, and found a fire still +burning in the hollow of an old tree. At a +small distance they saw several huts, and observed +ovens dug in the ground; the remains of a +recent meal were likewise apparent. They now +retired to their resting place, and slept on plantain-leaves, +with bunches of grass for their +pillows, on the side of a sand-bank, under the +shelter of a bush. +</p> +<p> +The tide favouring their return in the morning, +they lost no time in getting back to the +<span class='pagenum'>442</span>ship. The master, who had been seven leagues +at sea, returned soon after Mr. Banks, bringing +with him three turtle, which he took with a +boat hook, and which together weighed near +eight hundred pounds. He was sent out next +morning, and Mr. Banks accompanied him +with proper instruments for catching turtle; +but, not being successful, he would not go back +that night; so that Mr. Banks, after collecting +some shells and marine productions, returned +in his own small boat. +</p> +<p> +In the morning the second Lieutenant was +sent to bring the Master back, soon after which +four Indians, in a small canoe, were within +sight. The Captain now determined to take no +notice of these people, as the most likely way +to be noticed by them. This project answered: +two of them came within musket-shot of the +vessel, where they conversed very loud: in return +the people on board shouted, and made +signs of invitation. The Indians gradually approached, +with their lances held up, not in a +menacing manner, but as if they meant to intimate +they were capable of defending themselves. +They came almost along-side, when the Captain +threw them cloth, nails, paper, &c. which did +not seem to attract their notice. At length one +of the sailors threw them a small fish, which so +pleased them, that they hinted their design of +bringing their companions, and immediately +rowed for the shore. In the interim, Tupia +<span class='pagenum'>443</span>and some of the crew landed on the opposite +shore. The four Indians now came quite along-side +the ship; and having received farther presents, +landed where Tupia and the sailors had +gone. They had each two lances, and a stick +with which they throw them. Advancing towards +the English, Tupia persuaded them to +lay down their arms, and sit by him, which they +readily did. Others of the crew now going a-shore, +the Indians seemed jealous, least they +should get between them and their arms; but +care was taken to convince them that no such +thing was intended, and more trifles were presented +to them. The crew staid with them till +dinner-time, and then made signs of invitation +for them to go to the ship and eat; but this they +declined, and retired in their canoe. +</p> +<p> +These men were of the common stature, +with very small limbs; their complexion a deep +chocolate; their hair black, either lank or +curled, but not of the wool kind; the breast +and upper lip of one of them were painted +with streaks of white, which he called <i>Carbanda</i>, +and some parts of their bodies had been painted +red. Their teeth were white and even, their +eyes bright, and their features rather pleasing: +their voices were musical, and they repeated several +English words with great readiness. +</p> +<p> +The visit of three of these Indians was renewed +the next morning, and they brought +with them a fourth, whom they called <span class="small-caps">Yapa-Rico</span>; +<span class='pagenum'>444</span>who appeared to be a person of some +consequence. The bone of a bird, about six +inches long, was thrust through the gristle of +his nose: and indeed all the inhabitants of this +place had their noses bored, for the reception +of such an ornament. These people being all +naked, the Captain gave one of them an old +shirt, which he bound round his head like a +turban, instead of using it to cover any part of +his body. They brought a fish to the ship, +which was supposed to be in payment for that +given them the preceding day: after staying +some time, with apparent satisfaction, they suddenly +leaped into their canoe, and rowed off, +from a jealousy of some of the gentlemen who +were examining it. +</p> +<p> +Three Indians visited Tupia’s tent on the +12th of July, and after remaining some time, +one of them went for two others, whom he introduced +by name. Some fish was offered them, +but they seemed not much to regard it, and, +after eating a little, gave the remainder to Mr. +Banks’s dog. Some ribbands which had been +given them, to which medals were suspended +round their necks, were so changed by smoke, +that it was difficult to judge what colour they +had been; and the smoke had made their skins +look darker than their natural colour; from +whence it was thought that they slept close to +their fires, as a preventative against the sting of +the musquitos. Both the strangers had bones +<span class='pagenum'>445</span>through their noses, and a piece of bark tied +over the forehead; and one of them had an +ornament of strings round his arm, and an elegant +necklace made of shells. Their canoe +was about ten feet long, and calculated to hold +four persons; and when it was in shallow water +they moved it by means of poles. Their +lances had only a single point, and some of +them were barbed with fish-bones. On the +14th Mr. Gore shot one of the mouse-coloured +animals abovementioned. It chanced to be a +young one, weighing no more than thirty-eight +pounds; but when full grown they are as +large as a sheep. The skin of this beast, which +is called <i>Kanguroo</i>, is covered with short fur, +and is of a dark mouse-colour: the head and +ears are somewhat like those of a hare: this +animal was dressed for dinner, and proved fine +eating. The ship’s crew fed on turtle almost +every day, which were finer than those eaten in +England, owing to their being killed before +their natural fat was wasted, and their juices +changed. +</p> +<p> +On the 17th Messrs. Banks and Solander +went with the Captain into the woods, and +saw four Indians in a canoe, who went on +shore, and walked up without sign of fear. +They accepted some beads, and departed, intimating, +that they did not chuse to be followed. +The natives being now become familiar with +the ship’s crew, one of them was desired to +<span class='pagenum'>446</span>throw his lance, which he did with such dexterity +and force, that though it was not above +four feet from the ground at the highest, it penetrated +deeply into a tree at the distance of +fifty yards. The natives now went on board +the ship, and were well pleased with their entertainment. +On the 19th they saw several of +the women, who, as well as the men, were +quite naked. They were this day visited by +ten of the natives, who seemed resolved to +have one of the turtle that was on board, which +they repeatedly made signs for, and being as +repeatedly refused, they expressed the utmost +rage and resentment; and one of them, in particular, +having received a denial from Mr. +Banks, he stamped, and pushed him away in +the most violent manner. At length they laid +hands on two of the turtles, and drew them +to the side of the ship where their canoe lay; +but the sailors took them away. They made +several similar attempts, but being equally unsuccessful, +they leaped suddenly into their canoe, +and rowed off. At this instant the Captain, +with Mr. Banks, and five or fix seamen, +went ashore, where they arrived before the Indians, +and where many of the crew were already +employed. As soon as the Indians landed, +one of them snatched a fire-brand from under +a pitch kettle, and running to the windward of +what effects were on shore, set fire to the dry +grass, which burnt rapidly, scorched a pig to +<span class='pagenum'>447</span>death, burnt part of the smith’s forge, and +would have destroyed a tent of Mr. Banks’s, +but that some people came from the ship just +in time to get it out of the way of the flames. +In the interim the Indians went to a place where +the fishing nets lay, and a quantity of linen was +laid out to dry, and there again set fire to the +grass, in spite of all persuasion, and even of +threats. A musket loaded with small shot was +now fired, and one of them being wounded, +they ran away, and this second fire was easily +extinguished; but the other burnt far into the +woods. +</p> +<p> +The natives continuing still in sight, a musquet +charged with ball was fired near them; +upon hearing which they soon got out of sight: +but their voices being soon heard in the woods, +and seeming to come nearer, the Captain, with +a few people, went to meet them. When they +were in sight of each other, both parties stopped, +except an old Indian, who advanced before +the rest a little way, but soon halted, and +speaking a few words, retreated to his brethren, +and they all retired slowly together. The English +having seized some of their darts, followed +them about a mile, and then sat down, the Indians +sitting about an hundred yards from them. +The old man again came forward, having in +his hand a lance with a point. He stopped +and spoke several times, on which the Captain +made signs of friendship. The old Indian now +<span class='pagenum'>448</span>turned to his companions, and having spoken +to them, they placed their lances against a tree, +and came forward as in friendship; whereupon +their darts which had been taken were returned, +and the whole quarrel seemed to be at an end. +The Indians having accepted some trinkets, +walked amicably toward the coast, intimating, +by signs, that they would not fire the grass +again. They sat down opposite the ship, but +would not go on board; and they accepted a +few musquet-balls, the use and effect of which +the Captain endeavoured to explain to them. +When Captain Cook got on board he saw the +woods burning at the distance of two miles. +</p> +<p> +The master having been sent to search for a +passage to the northward, returned with an account +that he could not find any. By the night +of the 20th the fire had extended many miles +round them on the hills, which at night formed +an appearance that was very striking. On the +22d they killed a turtle, through both shoulders +of which stuck a wooden harpoon, which the +Indians had striken it with, and the wound was +quite healed. The next day one of the seamen, +who had strayed from his company, met with +four Indians at dinner: he was alarmed at this +unexpected meeting, but had prudence enough to +conceal his apprehensions, and sitting down by +them, gave them his knife, which having all +looked at, they returned: he would then have +left them; but they chose to detain him till, by +<span class='pagenum'>449</span>feeling his hands and face, they were convinced +he was made of flesh and blood like themselves: +they then dismissed him, directing him the nearest +way to the ship. +</p> +<p> +Mr. Banks having gone on shore in search of +plants, found the cloth, which had been distributed +among the natives, lying in a heap, as a +commodity of no value. On the 24th, Messrs. +Solander and Banks found several marking nuts +[the <i>Anacardium orientale</i>] on the ground; but +their search for the tree that bore them was +fruitless. On the 26th Mr. Banks catched +a female animal, called the <i>Opossum</i>, with two +young ones. +</p> +<p> +By the 29th the ship was ready for sea; but +there was not water sufficient for her to pass the +bar. On the first of August they found that +their pumps were all rotten; but as the ship +admitted only an inch of water in an hour, they +hoped she would be stout enough to bear the +voyage. On the 4th of this month they put to +sea, the pinnace going a-head to keep sounding, +and at noon came to an anchor, when the Captain +gave the name of <span class="small-caps">Cape Bedford</span> to the +northermost point of land in sight, and that of +<span class="small-caps">Endeavour River</span> to the harbour which they +had quitted. +</p> +<p> +The provisions they obtained while in this +harbour, consisted of turtle, which they went +some miles to sea to catch; oysters of three different +sorts, large cavalhe or scomber, large +<span class='pagenum'>450</span>mullets, some flat fish, a great number of small +scombri, and skate or ray fish; purslain, wild +beans, the tops of coccos, and cabbage palms. +Of quadrupedes there are goats, wolves, and +pole-cats, and a spotted animal of the viverra +kind; and several kinds of serpents, only some +of which are venomous. Dogs are the only +tame animals; the land-fowls are kites, crows, +hawks, loriquets, cockatoos, parrots, pigeons, +and small birds of various kinds, the names of +which were not known: the water-fowls are +wild geese, curlieus, hens, whistling ducks, +which perch on trees, and some few others. +The soil produces the gum tree, and various other +kinds of wood, and coarse grass: the whole +of the country is well watered, and ant hills +abound in every part of it. +</p> +<p> +On the 4th the Captain ascended to the masthead, +to look at some shoals which threatened +great danger; and he saw several of them above +the water. This day such a quantity of fish was +catched, as allowed a dividend of two pounds +to each man. During the six following days +they struggled incessantly to sail safely past the +shoals and breakers, by which they were every +way surrounded; but, for the present, their attempts +were vain. On the 10th they were between +a head-land, and three islands, which had +been discovered on the preceding day; and began +to conceive hopes that they were out of +danger; but this not proving the case, the head-land +<span class='pagenum'>451</span>received the name of <span class="small-caps">Cape Flattery</span>. +Some land was now seen from the mast-head, +which was generally taken for the main; but +the Captain judged it to be a cluster of islands; +and during this diversity of opinion, the ship +came to an anchor. The Captain now landed, +and ascending a high point, took a survey of +the sea coast, by which he was confirmed in his +opinion, that what they had seen was not any +part of the main, but a number of islands. +On the point where he stood were seen the +prints of human feet, in white sand of an exquisite +fineness, and the spot was denominated +<span class="small-caps">Point Lookout</span>. +</p> +<p> +Early on the 11th Mr. Banks and the Captain +went to visit the largest of three islands, +which had been seen from the point the preceding +day. Having gained the summit of the +highest hill, they beheld a reef of rocks, on +which the sea broke in a frightful manner; but +the thickness of the weather preventing a perfect +view, they lodged under a bush during the +night, in the hope of having a better prospect +in the morning; but the weather then proved +worse than it had been on the preceding day; +yet, as they saw what had the appearance of a +channel between the reefs, a person was sent to +examine it, who found it very narrow. They +now set out to return to the ship, after giving +the name of <span class="small-caps">Lizard Island</span> to this place, +<span class='pagenum'>452</span>from their having seen no animals but lizards on +it. +</p> +<p> +On their return they landed on a low sandy +island, which abounded in birds of various +kinds, among which were eagles, a nest of the +young of which they took, and called the place +<span class="small-caps">Eagle Island</span>. On this spot they saw the nest +of some bird, which was built with sticks on the +ground, it was near three feet in height, and +twenty-six round. +</p> +<p> +During the interval of their absence from +the ship, the master had landed on several +low islands, where he had seen great heaps of +turtle-shells, and found the fins of them which +the Indians had left hanging on the trees, so +fresh, that they were dressed and eaten by the +boat’s crew. +</p> +<p> +After a conversation held among the officers, +it was their concurrent opinion, that it would +be best to leave the coast, and stand out to sea: +and in consequence of these sentiments they +sailed on the 13th of August, 1770, and got +through one of the channels in the reef; happy +to be once more in an open sea, after having +been surrounded by dreadful shoals and rocks +for near three months. They had now sailed +above a thousand miles, during all which run +they had been obliged to keep sounding, without +the intermission of a single minute; a circumstance +which, it is supposed, never happened +to any ship but the Endeavour. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>453</span>The islands from one of which the passage +to the open sea had been observed, were called +the <span class="small-caps">Islands of Direction</span>. They abound in +turtle and other fish, and on the beach were +found bamboos, cocoa nuts, pumice-stone, and +the seeds of plants, which were supposed to be +carried thither by the trade winds, as the plants +themselves do not grow in the country. +</p> +<p> +Having anchored on the 14th, they steered a +westerly course on the following day, to get +sight of the land, that a passage between that +land and New Guinea might not be missed, if +there was any such passage. Early in the afternoon +they had sight of land, which had the appearance +of hilly islands, but it was judged to be a +part of the main; and they saw breakers between +the vessel and the land, in which was an +opening, to get clear of which they set all their +sails, and stood to the northward till midnight, +and then went on a southward tack for about +two miles, when the breeze died away to a dead +calm. When day-light came on they saw a +dreadful surf break at a vast height within a +mile of the ship, towards which the rolling +waves carried her with great rapidity. Thus +distressed, the boats were sent a-head to tow, +and the head of the vessel was brought about, but +not till she was within one hundred yards of the +rock, between which and her there was nothing +left but the chasm, made by the last wave which +had washed her side, and which had risen and +<span class='pagenum'>454</span>broke to a wonderful height on the rock:⁠—but, +in the moment they expected instant destruction, +a breeze, hardly discernible, aided the boats in +getting the vessel in an oblique direction from +the rock. The hopes however, afforded by this +providential circumference, were destroyed by a +perfect calm which succeeded in a few minutes; +yet the breeze once more returned, before they +had lost the little ground which had been gained. +</p> +<p> +At this time a small opening was seen in the +reef, and a young officer being sent to examine +it, found that its breadth did not much exceed +the length of the ship, but that there was +smooth water on the other side of the rocks. Animated +by the hope of preserving life, they now +attempted to pass the opening; but this was +impossible; for it having become high water in +the interim, the ebb tide rushed through it with +amazing impetuosity, carrying the ship about a +quarter of a mile from the reef, and she +soon reached the distance of near two miles, by +the help of the boats. When the ebb tide was +spent, the tide of flood again drove the vessel +very near the rocks, so that their prospect of +destruction was renewed, when they discovered +another opening, and a light breeze springing +up, they entered it, and were driven through +it with a rapidity that prevented the ship from +striking against either side of the channel. The +ship now came to an anchor, and her crew were +<span class='pagenum'>455</span>grateful for having regained a station, which +they had been very lately most anxious to quit. +</p> +<p> +The name of <span class="small-caps">Providential Channel</span> was +given to the opening through which the ship +had thus escaped the most imminent dangers. A +high promontory on the main land in sight, was +denominated <span class="small-caps">Cape Weymouth</span>, and a bay near +it <span class="small-caps">Weymouth Bay</span>. This day the boats went +out to fish, and met with great success, particularly +in catching cockles, some of which were +of such an amazing size, as to require the strength +of two men to move them. Mr. Banks likewise +succeeded in his search for rare shells, and +different kinds of coral. +</p> +<p> +On the 18th they discovered several small +islands, which were called <span class="small-caps">Forbes’s Islands</span>, +and had sight of a high point of land on the +main, which was named the <span class="small-caps">Bolt Head</span>. On +the 19th they discovered several other small +islands, the land of which was low, barren, +and sandy. A point was seen, and called <span class="small-caps">Cape +Grenville</span>, and a bay which took the name of +<span class="small-caps">Temple Bay</span>. In the afternoon many other +islands were seen, which were denominated +<span class="small-caps">Bird Isles</span>, from their being frequented by numerous +flocks of birds. +</p> +<p> +On the 20th many more small islands were +seen, on one of which there were a few trees, +and many Indian huts, supposed to have been +erected by the natives of the main land, as temporary +habitations during their visits to these +<span class='pagenum'>456</span>islands. On the 21st they sailed through a +channel, in which was a number of shoals; and +gave the name of <span class="small-caps">York Cape</span> to a point of +the main land which forms the side of the channel. +A large bay is formed to the south of the +cape, which was called <span class="small-caps">Newcastle Bay</span>, and +in which are several little islands. On the north +side of the cape the land is rather mountainous, +but the low parts of the country abound with +trees. The islands discovered in the morning +of this day, were called <span class="small-caps">York Isles</span>. In the +afternoon they anchored between some islands, +and observed, that the channel now began to +grow wider: they observed two distant points, +between which no land could be seen, so that +the hope of having at length explored a passage +into the Indian sea began to animate every +breast: but, to bring the matter nearer to a +certainty, the Captain took a party, and being +accompanied by Messrs. Solander and Banks, +they landed on an island, on which they had +seen a number of Indians, ten of whom were on +a hill, one of them carrying a bow, and a bundle +of arrows, the rest armed with lances; and +round the necks of two of them hung strings +of mother-of-pearl. Three of these Indians +stood on the shore, as if to oppose the landing +of the boat; but they retired before it reached +the beach. +</p> +<p> +The Captain and his company now ascended +a hill, from whence they had a view of near +<span class='pagenum'>457</span>forty miles, in which space there was nothing +that threatened to oppose their passage; so that +the certainty of a channel seemed to be almost +ascertained. Previous to their leaving the island, +Captain Cook displayed the English colours, +and took possession of all the eastern coast of +the country, from the 38th degree of south-latitude, +to the present spot, by the name of <span class="small-caps">New +South Wales</span>, for his Sovereign the King of +Great Britain; and three vollies of small arms +being fired, and answered by an equal number +from the <i>Endeavour</i>, the place received the +name of <span class="small-caps">Possession Island</span>. +</p> +<p> +The next morning they saw three naked women +collecting shell-fish on the beach; and +weighing anchor, gave the name of <span class="small-caps">Cape Cornwall</span> +to the extreme point of the largest island +on the north-west side of the passage: some low +islands near the middle of the channel receiving +the name of <span class="small-caps">Wallis’s Isles</span>; soon after which +the ship came to an anchor, and the long-boat +was sent out to sound. +</p> +<p> +Towards evening they sailed again, and the +Captain landed with Mr. Banks on a small +island, which was frequented by immense numbers +of birds, the majority of which being boobies, +the place received the name of <span class="small-caps">Booby +Island</span>. They were now advanced to the northern +extremity of New Holland, and had the +satisfaction of viewing the open sea to the westward. +The north-east entrance of the passage +<span class='pagenum'>458</span>is formed by the main land of New Holland, +and by a number of islands which took the +name of the <span class="small-caps">Prince of Wales’s Islands</span>, and +which Captain Cook imagines may reach to +New Guinea: these islands abound with trees +and grass, and were known to be inhabited, +from the smoke that was seen ascending in +many places. +</p> +<p> +To the passage which they had sailed through, +Captain Cook gave the name of <span class="small-caps">Endeavour +Streights</span>; we shall now proceed to a more +accurate description of the country they had discovered; +with an account of its productions, +and of the manners and language of its inhabitants. +</p> +<p> +New South Wales is a much larger country +than any hitherto known, which is not deemed +a continent, being larger than all Europe; +which is proved by the Endeavour having coasted +more than two thousand miles, even if her +tract was reduced to a strait line. Northward +of the latitude of thirty-three degrees, the +country is hilly, but not mountainous; but to +the southward of that latitude, it is mostly low +and even ground. The hills in general are diversified +by lawns and woods, and many of the +vallies abound with herbage; though, on the +whole, it cannot be deemed a fertile country. +To the northward the grass is not so rich, nor +the trees so high as in the southern parts; and +almost every where, even the largest trees grow +<span class='pagenum'>459</span>at a distance of not less than thirteen yards asunder. +In all those places where the land forms +a bay, the shore is covered with mangroves, +which grow about a mile inland, in a stinking +ground, which the spring tides always overflow. +In some parts there are bogs, covered with +thick grass, and there is plenty of underwood +in the vallies: the soil in general seems +unfit for cultivation, though there are many +spots where the arts of tillage might be attended +with success. +</p> +<p> +Salt creeks run in many directions through +the country, which likewise abounds in springs +and brooks of fresh water, but has no rivers of +any considerable size; yet it is supposed to be +upon the whole well watered, as the time when +the ship was on the coast, was the driest season +of the year. All parts of the country produce +the gum tree, which yields a resin like the <i>sanguis +draconis</i>. +</p> +<p> +There are palm-trees of three kinds, two of +which are found only in the northern district. +One of these produces nuts resembling chesnuts, +the hulls of which being found near where the +natives had made fires, it was supposed that +they were eatable; but some of the seamen +having eaten of them, were taken very ill: upon +which they were given to the hogs, but two of +these died in about a week, and it was a work +of difficulty to recover the rest. The second +sort of palm is much like the true cabbage tree +<span class='pagenum'>460</span>of the West Indies, and yields a large cabbage +of a tolerable flavour. The third sort, which +abounds in the southward parts, produces a +small cabbage of the most agreeable taste; and +its nuts, which are fine food for hogs, grow in +the greatest abundance. This country also produces +a tree, on which grows a kind of purple +apple, which tastes like a damascen, after keeping +it a few days:⁠—a fig-tree, the fruit of +which tastes very indifferently:⁠—and a tree, +the fruit of which is flat on the sides like a +cheese, but its colour is that of a plumb. +</p> +<p> +Among the plants there is one, the leaves of +which are like those of the bulrush, which +yields a bright yellow resin, exactly like gambouge, +but it does not stain: this plant had a +very agreeable smell, but it is not known to +what uses it might be applied. There are two +kinds of yams, one round, and covered with +stringy fibres, and the other shaped like a radish; +but both of them are pleasant to the +taste: besides these, the country produces purslain, +and a kind of wild parsley. A fruit of +a bad taste was found, which resembled a pine-apple, +and another, the kernel of which was +soft, but it was otherwise like a cherry. +</p> +<p> +Besides the quadrupedes already mentioned, +there is one, the belly of which is totally white, +and the back brown, with white spots: it is +much like a polecat, and the Indians call it +<i>Quoll</i>.⁠—There are vast numbers of beautiful +<span class='pagenum'>461</span>pigeons, many of which were shot by the seamen; +and the other land-birds are eagles, hawks, +cranes, herons, bustards, crows, quails, doves, +parrots, paroquets, cockatoos, and some other +birds of very elegant plumage. +</p> +<p> +The insects are few in number, among which +the musquito and the ant are the chief. The +ants are of four kinds. The first are perfectly +green, and live on trees, in which they build +curious nests, by bending down the leaves, and +gluing them together with an animal juice: +thousands of them joined to keep the leaf in its +proper position, while many others were employed +in the gluing them. Being disturbed in +their work, the leaves, which are four or five +inches in breadth, flew back with a force which +was thought much superior to the united strength +of these insects. Those who disturbed them +paid for their curiosity, by being stung in a very +severe manner. +</p> +<p> +The second kind of ants are quite black, +and live in the inside of the branches of trees, +after they have worked out the pith. Some of +the branches being gathered, millions of these +animals issued from every broken twig. +</p> +<p> +The third sort took up their lodging in the +root of a plant that twines round the trunk of +other trees. This root, which they hollowed +for their purpose, was cut into great numbers +of passages which ran across each other; yet +the plant appeared not to have been injured. +<span class='pagenum'>462</span>These were not more than half the size of the +red ant of this country, but, upon being disturbed, +they crawled over the body in thousands, +and put their disturbers to the pain arising +from exquisite tickling. +</p> +<p> +The fourth kind were like the white ants of +the East Indies; and had one sort of nests, as +big as an half peck loaf, hanging from the +boughs of the trees, and composed of several +minute parts of vegetables, stuck together by +a glutinous matter, supposed to have been supplied +from their own bodies. The cells had a +communication with each other, and had openings +which led to other nests on the same tree: +they had likewise a hollow covered passage to +another nest on the ground, at the root of a +different tree from that on which the former +nest was suspended. The ground nests are six +feet in height, and almost as much in breadth; +the outside being plaistered with clay of near +two inches in thickness: these have a subterraneous +passage to the roots of the trees near which +they stand; from whence the ants ascend, by +covered ways, up the trunk and branches. As +these ground-built houses are proof against the +invasion of the rain, it is supposed that the ants +retire to them during the wet season. +</p> +<p> +The seas in these parts produce variety and +plenty of fish, among which are mullets, sea-crayfish, +and crabs. On the shoals are found +the rock, pearl, and other oysters; and the most +<span class='pagenum'>463</span>delicate green turtle, besides those enormous +cockles which have been already mentioned. +Alligators are found in the rivers and salt +creeks. +</p> +<p> +This country does not appear to be inhabited +by numbers any way proportioned to its great +extent: not above thirty being ever seen together +but once, which was when those of both +sexes and all ages got together on a rock off +Botany-bay, to view the ship. None of their +villages consisted of more huts than would afford +shelter for fourteen or fifteen men; and +these were the largest numbers that ever assembled +with a view to attack the English. No part +of the country appeared to be cultivated; +whence there must necessarily be fewer inhabitants +inland, than on the sea coast. +</p> +<p> +The men are well made, of the middle size, +and active in a high degree; but their voices +are soft even to effeminacy. Their colour is the +chocolate; but they were so covered with dirt, +as to look almost as black as negroes. Their +hair is naturally long and black, but they commonly +crop it short; in some few instances it is +slightly curled, but in common quite strait. +It is always matted with dirt, yet wholly free +from lice: their beards are thick and bushy, +but kept short by singing. The women were +seen only at a distance, as the men constantly +left them behind when they crossed the river. +</p> +<p> +The chief ornament of these people is the +bone that is thrust through the nose, which +<span class='pagenum'>464</span>the sailors whimsically termed their spritsail +yard: but besides this they wore necklaces formed +of shells, a small cord tied twice or thrice +round the arm between the elbow and the +shoulder, and a string of plaited human hair +round the waist. Some few of them had an +ornament of shells hanging across the breast. +Besides these ornaments, they painted their bodies +and limbs white and red, in stripes of different +dimensions; and they had a circle of +white round each eye, and spots of it on the +face. Their ears were bored, but they did not +wear ear-rings. +</p> +<p> +These people accepted whatever was given +them, but seemed to have no idea of making +an adequate return; and they would not part +with their ornaments for any thing that was +offered in exchange. Their bodies were marked +with scars, which they signified were in remembrance +of the deceased. +</p> +<p> +Their huts were built with small rods, the +two ends of which were fixed into the ground, +so as to form the figure of an oven; they are +covered with pieces of bark and palm-leaves. +The door of this building, which is only high +enough to sit upright in, is opposite to the fire-place; +they sleep with their heels turned up towards +their heads, and even in this posture the hut +will not hold more than four people. In the northern +parts, where the weather was warmer, +one side of the houses was left open, and the +<span class='pagenum'>465</span>other opposed to whatever wind might blow at +the time: these huts were only built for temporary +use, and left behind when they removed +to other parts of the country; but if their stay +was only for a night or two, they had no other +protection from the weather than what the grass +and bushes afforded. While the huts on the +main land were turned from the wind, those on +the islands were turned towards it; a kind of +proof that they visit the islands in fine weather, +and enjoy the refreshing breeze while they sleep. +</p> +<p> +These huts are furnished with a kind of +bucket for fetching water, made of an oblong +piece of bark tied up at each end with the +twig of a tree; and this is the only furniture of +the house. On their backs they have a kind of +bag, of the size and form of a cabbage-net, in +which they carry their fish-hooks and lines, the +shells of which they make these hooks, the ornaments +which they wear, some points of darts, +and two or three bits of paint; and in this narrow +compass lies all their riches. +</p> +<p> +They feed on the kanguroo, and on several +kinds of birds, when they can catch them; +they likewise eat yams, and various kinds of +fruit; but the principal article of their subsistence +is fish. They were frequently observed +with the leaves of a tree in their mouths, but +whether it had the qualities either of tobacco or +betle could not be known; but it was observed +not to discolour the teeth or lips. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>466</span>From the notches that were seen in great numbers +of trees, for the purpose of climbing them, +it was imagined that their method of taking the +kanguroo, was by striking it with their lances as +it passed under the tree. In these trees, likewise, +it is probable, that they took birds while they +were roosting, as they seemed too shy to be +otherwise catched. +</p> +<p> +Their method of producing fire, and extending +the flames of it is very singular: having +wrought one end of a stick into an obtuse +point, they place this point upon a piece of dry +wood, and turning the upright stick very fast +backward and forward between their hands, the +fire is soon produced; nor is it encreased with less +celerity:⁠—one of the natives was frequently observed +to run along the sea coast, leaving fire in +various places. The method taken to do this +was as follows⁠—before he set off, he wrapped +up a little spark of fire in dry grass, and the +quickness of his motion soon fanning it into a +flame, he then placed it on the ground, and +putting a spark of it in another bit of grass, +ran on again, and encreased the number of his +fires at pleasure. These fires were supposed to +be intended for the taking of the kanguroo, as +that animal was so very shy of fire, that when +forced by the dogs, it would not cross places +which had been newly burnt, even when the fire +was extinguished. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'>467</span>The natives of New South Wales make use +of spears or lances; but these are very differently +constructed: those that were seen in the +southern parts of the country had four prongs, +pointed with bone, and barbed; and the points +were rubbed with a hard kind of wax, the +smoothness of which made an easier passage into +what was struck by them. On the contrary, +the lances in the northern parts have only one +point: the shafts of them are of different +lengths, from eight to fourteen feet, are made +of the stalk of a plant not unlike a bulrush, +and consist of several joints let into each other, +and tied together. The points of these lances +are sometimes made of fish-bones, and sometimes +of a hard heavy wood: they are barbed +with other pieces of wood or bone, so that when +they have entered any depth into the body, +they cannot be drawn out without tearing the +flesh in a shocking manner, or leaving splinters +behind them. +</p> +<p> +When the natives intend to wound at a considerable +distance, they discharge this instrument +with a throwing-stick; but if the object +be near them, it is thrown from the hand only. +The throwing-stick is a piece of smooth, hard, +red wood, half an inch thick, two inches broad, +and about three feet in length, having a cross +piece near four inches long at one end, and a +small knob at the other. A small hollow is +made in the shaft of the lance, near the point, +<span class='pagenum'>468</span>and in this hollow the knob is received; but, +on being forced forward, it will easily slip from +it. The lance being placed on this throwing-stick, +the Indian holds it over his shoulder, +shakes it, and then throws both lance and stick +with his utmost power; but as the cross piece +strikes the shoulder, the sudden jerk stops the +stick, while the lance is driven forward with +amazing rapidity, and is generally so well aimed, +that a mark at the distance of fifty yards is +more certainly struck with it, than by a bullet +from a gun. +</p> +<p> +These people make use of shields, made of +the bark of trees, of about eighteen inches +broad, and three feet long. Many trees were +seen from whence the bark had been taken, and +others on which the shields were cut out, but +not taken away. +</p> +<p> +In the northern parts of this coast, the canoes +are formed by hollowing out the trunk of +a tree; and it was conjectured, that this operation +must have been performed by fire, as the +natives did not appear to have any instrument +proper for the purpose. The canoes are in +length about fourteen feet, and so narrow that +they would be frequently overset, but that they +are provided with an outrigger. The natives +row them with paddles, using both hands in +that employment. +</p> +<p> +The canoes in the southern parts are formed +only of a piece of bark four yards long, fastened +<span class='pagenum'>469</span>together at each end, and the middle kept +open by pieces of wood passing from side to +side. In deep water these are rowed by paddles, +of about a foot and a half in length, the +rower having one in each hand; but in shallow +water they are pushed forward by means of a +long stick. As these vessels are extremely light, +and draw very little water, the natives run +them on the mud banks in search of shell-fish, +some of which, it is probable, they broil and +eat as soon as they are taken, as it was remarked, +that in the center of these vessels there was +usually a fire burning on a quantity of sea-weed. +</p> +<p> +The natives have no tools but a wooden mallet, +a kind of wedge, and an adze, made of +stone, with some pieces of coral and shells, +which may possibly be applied to the purposes +of cutting. They polish the points of their +lances, and their throwing-sticks, with the +leaves of a tree that appears to be the ficus riduola, +or wild fig, which bites with a sharpness, +almost equal to that of a rasp. +</p> +<p> +Four people is the greatest number that a +canoe will contain; and when more than this +number were to pass a river, three were landed +out of the first freight, and one man went back +for the rest. +</p> +<p> +That the natives of this country sometimes +wage war with each other is evident, from their +being possessed of shields and weapons; yet +not a single wound was seen on any of their bodies: +<span class='pagenum'>470</span>and, if they are neither destroyed in war, +nor carried off by famine, it will be difficult to +form a judgment by what means the number of +the inhabitants are so reduced, as to subsist on +the products of the country: after all, it will, +perhaps, be best to attribute this circumstance +to the wisdom of that Providence, which distributes +all its blessings with the most unbounded +goodness, and the most consummate wisdom. +</p> +<p class="align_c two_space"> +<span class="small-caps">End of the Third Volume.</span> +</p> +<div class='tnote section'> +<p class="align_c space_after"> +Transcriber’s notes +</p> +<p> +New original cover art included with this ebook is granted to the public domain. +</p> +<p> +The illustrations have been moved to appropriate paragraph breaks. +</p> +<p> +The original text used the long s. This has been changed to the regular s. +</p> +<p> +Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. +</p> +<p> +Archaic and inconsistent spelling and hyphenation have been retained. +</p> +</div> + +<div style='text-align:center'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78019 ***</div> +</body> +</html> diff --git a/78019-h/images/001.png b/78019-h/images/001.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..514eb57 --- /dev/null +++ b/78019-h/images/001.png diff --git a/78019-h/images/015.jpg b/78019-h/images/015.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..df42053 --- /dev/null +++ b/78019-h/images/015.jpg diff --git a/78019-h/images/024.jpg b/78019-h/images/024.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2f9c8d2 --- /dev/null +++ b/78019-h/images/024.jpg diff --git a/78019-h/images/030.jpg b/78019-h/images/030.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fbb176a --- /dev/null +++ b/78019-h/images/030.jpg diff --git a/78019-h/images/109.jpg b/78019-h/images/109.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..84f7ca8 --- /dev/null +++ b/78019-h/images/109.jpg diff --git a/78019-h/images/208.jpg b/78019-h/images/208.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d15d4c1 --- /dev/null +++ b/78019-h/images/208.jpg diff --git a/78019-h/images/232.jpg b/78019-h/images/232.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8c0df43 --- /dev/null +++ b/78019-h/images/232.jpg diff --git a/78019-h/images/254.jpg b/78019-h/images/254.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ba36e1b --- /dev/null +++ b/78019-h/images/254.jpg diff --git a/78019-h/images/275.jpg b/78019-h/images/275.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8de12c0 --- /dev/null +++ b/78019-h/images/275.jpg diff --git a/78019-h/images/290.jpg b/78019-h/images/290.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..65518bb --- /dev/null +++ b/78019-h/images/290.jpg diff --git a/78019-h/images/309.jpg b/78019-h/images/309.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..cbc0f5f --- /dev/null +++ b/78019-h/images/309.jpg diff --git a/78019-h/images/323.jpg b/78019-h/images/323.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e423851 --- /dev/null +++ b/78019-h/images/323.jpg diff --git a/78019-h/images/352.jpg b/78019-h/images/352.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d0d5f2f --- /dev/null +++ b/78019-h/images/352.jpg diff --git a/78019-h/images/355.jpg b/78019-h/images/355.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..479aecc --- /dev/null +++ b/78019-h/images/355.jpg diff --git a/78019-h/images/401.jpg b/78019-h/images/401.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b9f038f --- /dev/null +++ b/78019-h/images/401.jpg diff --git a/78019-h/images/428.jpg b/78019-h/images/428.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0eafbc1 --- /dev/null +++ b/78019-h/images/428.jpg diff --git a/78019-h/images/432.jpg b/78019-h/images/432.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f603c77 --- /dev/null +++ b/78019-h/images/432.jpg diff --git a/78019-h/images/435.jpg b/78019-h/images/435.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..64e8fa9 --- /dev/null +++ b/78019-h/images/435.jpg diff --git a/78019-h/images/cover.jpg b/78019-h/images/cover.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..97277a1 --- /dev/null +++ b/78019-h/images/cover.jpg diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6c72794 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This book, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. 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