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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78091 ***
+[Illustration: _Drawn by W. Bagg. Junr._
+
+_Engraved by T. A. Dean._
+
+RICHARD LANDER.]
+
+
+                                RECORDS
+                                   OF
+                          CAPTAIN CLAPPERTON’S
+                            LAST EXPEDITION
+                                   TO
+                               =AFRICA:=
+
+                           BY RICHARD LANDER,
+             HIS FAITHFUL ATTENDANT, AND THE ONLY SURVIVING
+                       MEMBER OF THE EXPEDITION:
+
+                                WITH THE
+                  SUBSEQUENT ADVENTURES OF THE AUTHOR.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+                            IN TWO VOLUMES.
+
+                                VOL. I.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+                                LONDON:
+                   HENRY COLBURN AND RICHARD BENTLEY,
+                         NEW BURLINGTON STREET.
+                                 1830.
+
+
+
+
+                                CONTENTS
+                          OF THE FIRST VOLUME.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+
+                                                                   Page
+
+  INTRODUCTION                                                       ix
+
+  SKETCH OF THE AUTHOR’S LIFE                                         1
+
+                             CHAPTER I.
+
+  List of the Gentlemen and others engaged in the Mission —          15
+  The Brazen sails from Portsmouth — Touches at the Madeiras,
+  Canaries, and Cape de Verd Islands — Pursues and overtakes a
+  French slave ship — Falls in with H.M.S. Swinger — Arrives and
+  anchors at Sierra Leone — The Author’s first illness
+
+                             CHAPTER II.
+
+  The ship sails again — Captures a Spanish schooner with slaves     29
+  — The natives on the coast come on board — Vessel anchors at
+  Cape Coast — Sails from thence, and captures another slave
+  vessel — Arrives at Whydah, where Mr. Dickson lands — His
+  progress through the country, and reported death — The Brazen
+  comes to an anchor in Badagry Roads — The Gentlemen of the
+  Mission give a last farewell to the officers on board, and
+  proceed on shore
+
+                            CHAPTER III.
+
+  The travellers reach Badagry, and leave that city on the 7th of    45
+  December — Dr. Morrison’s illness — Arrival at Latoo — Captain
+  Pearce and the Author attacked with fever — Enter Jannah —
+  Continued and alarming illness of the party — Their progress —
+  Dr. Morrison returns to Jannah
+
+                             CHAPTER IV.
+
+  Deaths of Dawson, Captain Pearce, and Dr. Morrison —               73
+  Their funeral — The survivors, after meeting with various
+  occurrences, and experiencing the kindest hospitality from
+  the natives on their route, arrive at Katunga, the capital of
+  Yariba, on the 15th of January, 1826
+
+                             CHAPTER V.
+
+  Residence at Katunga — Ebo the Eunuch — Pantomimic                108
+  representation by the Yaribeans — Departure from the city of
+  Katunga — Arrival at Khiama — Wow Wow — Manners of the People —
+  Boussa — Mungo Park
+
+                             CHAPTER VI.
+
+  Widow Zuma’s Love Adventures — Departure from Wow Wow — Arrival   150
+  at Coulfo — Civil war in Nyffé — Ceremonies observed by the
+  people of Coulfo at the end of the Rhamadan — Tornado at that
+  place, and its disastrous consequences — The Travellers quit
+  Coulfo, and proceed on their journey — The Author attacked
+  with dysentery — His sufferings — Noble conduct of Captain
+  Clapperton towards him — They enter Zeg Zeg — Arrive at Kano
+
+                            CHAPTER VII.
+
+  Residence at Kano — Captain Clapperton leaves for Soccatoo —      198
+  History of Pasko, the Houssa Interpreter — Pasko’s robberies
+  and confinement — Return of the Captain with the Godado, after
+  an ineffectual attempt to reach Soccatoo — His second departure
+  from Kano — His Letters
+
+                            CHAPTER VIII.
+
+  The Author quits Kano to join his Master — His illness on the     231
+  road — Anecdotes of the Natives, and his reception by them
+  — Pasko’s new robbery, and elopement — He is overtaken, and
+  brought back — The Tuarick merchants — The Author’s arrival
+  at Soccatoo, the metropolis of the Falatah empire — Residence
+  there — Pasko’s dismissal, conduct, and marriage
+
+                             CHAPTER IX.
+
+  Religion — Laws — Government — Amusements, &c. of the Natives     270
+  from Badagry to Soccatoo — Slavery in the interior countries —
+  Timidity of the people — State of the Arts amongst them — Dry
+  and Wet Seasons
+
+
+
+
+                             INTRODUCTION.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+
+On my return from Africa in the summer of 1828, I was so ill with fever
+and debility, that I had neither spirit nor inclination to devote much
+time to the compilation and arrangement of my notes, and of the short
+sketches of character taken by stealth in the heart of that continent.
+My duty and sole design, in laying my Journal before the British
+Government, were to satisfy Ministers with regard to my conduct after
+the decease of Captain Clapperton, my lamented master; and to make them
+acquainted with the manner in which the property left in my charge at
+Soccatoo had been disposed of, in my hazardous journey back to the sea-
+coast. Besides, I had not seen my friends in Cornwall for a period
+little short of thirteen years; and it is quite natural to suppose that
+I should have felt a longing to re-visit the place of my nativity, after
+so protracted and painful an absence. It is not to be wondered at, when
+all this is considered, that my printed Narrative, drawn up in haste,
+and without having received the benefit of even the slightest
+assistance, except from a younger brother, should be incomplete, and in
+many instances carelessly expressed.
+
+To remedy, if possible, these defects, and to insert the relation of a
+thousand amusing incidents which had been overlooked, I have in the
+following pages given my Narrative a new and a more complete dress; and
+I sincerely hope that my countrymen will not be displeased at my humble
+but persevering attempts to depict, in true colours, the customs and
+ceremonies of the powerful nations or tribes inhabiting that vast tract
+of country lying between Badagry and the beautiful kingdom of Houssa.
+
+The natives of the regions traversed by Captain Clapperton and myself
+ever regarded our writing apparatus with mingled sensations of alarm and
+jealousy; and fancied, when they observed us using them, that we were
+making _fetishes_ (charms) and enchantments prejudicial to their lives
+and interests. To this cause is attributable the absence of many
+particulars, both in my master’s Journal and my own, which, though
+unimportant in themselves, serve to pourtray, and to place in a natural
+and lively point of view, the most conspicuous touches in the character
+of the African, and gradually to develope his passions, prejudices, and
+remarkable superstitions. We were unwilling to raise up enemies against
+us in a strange land, by continuing, in presence of the people, a
+practice which awakened their jealousy, and served only to make us
+objects of distrust and hatred to them all. Hence we were obliged to
+cherish in our memory various particulars which we were unable, at that
+period, to put on paper; contenting ourselves with the hope that, on our
+return to England, we should have ample leisure to devote to the
+accomplishment of that object; this was, however, unfortunately
+frustrated by the decease of Captain Clapperton. I myself have
+consequently taken the liberty, in the following pages, of attempting to
+carry into execution the project which that intrepid officer had in
+view—when alive, and in the full hope of returning to his native land.
+
+The recreations and songs of the people, as well as their wars, laws,
+religion and government, I have endeavoured faithfully to describe. Of
+course it cannot be expected that a person in my humble situation of
+life should have powers of language sufficient to give these
+descriptions the fullest charm of which they may be susceptible: yet I
+have done the best my poor abilities would allow me. I have translated
+several songs from the figurative language of the natives into the
+English tongue, adopting the similes, and copying the mode of
+expression, as nearly as the idiom of the former would permit; while, in
+the absence of technical terms relative to law, &c., I have chosen words
+which have appeared to me the simplest, and which indeed occur most
+easily to me.
+
+The engagements of the Falatahs with their sable neighbours can scarcely
+fail of being interesting in many points of view; and their manner of
+making war is characteristic of African customs. That aggrandizing
+power, like the government of Russia in Europe, is making rapid and
+gigantic strides towards an enormous despotism; and should it hereafter
+possess so martial and enterprising a ruler as its founder, Dandfodio,
+in the course of a very few years the whole of Central and Northern, if
+not of Western Africa, will be under the _surveillance_ of the restless
+Falatah; and the worship of snakes and idols be supplanted by the
+fanatical tenets of Islamism.
+
+The history of the far-famed Borghoo-Arabian lady, widow Zuma, is
+correct in every particular; the elopement of that most bulky individual
+will, it is trusted, be found amusing in the extreme; and the whole
+train of her adventures—her passionate fondness for white men—the marvel
+of her extraordinary plumpness—her excessive hospitality—the splendour
+of her retinue and domestic establishment—her inordinate ambition in
+attempting to dethrone her lawful sovereign, the innocent and facetious
+Mohammed—her mournful reverse of fortune—her confinement—the song of her
+maidens—and her last request,—are singularly remarkable, and strongly
+pourtray the disposition and habits of an eminent African belle.
+
+The narrative of Pasko, or rather, I should say, of _Abbu Becr_, our
+Houssa interpreter, contrasted with that of the amiable and accomplished
+Zuma, will not be found to be altogether destitute of attraction,
+insomuch as it shows the manners and superstitions of his countrymen
+much more pleasingly than a laboured description of them would do; while
+the archness, drollery, and dishonesty of the old scoundrel, together
+with his warm and deep attachment to the gentler sex, and his entire
+devotedness to their service, are accurately related, as the
+circumstances which called those various passions into action took
+place.
+
+After the decease of Captain Pearce and Dr. Morrison, when my late
+valued master and myself were the only Europeans left of the mission,
+Captain Clapperton for various reasons thought proper to style me his
+son, and the natives ever after regarded that gallant officer as my
+father. Surrounded as we were by strange faces and strange scenes, cut
+off from all communication with civilized society, and wandering, far
+from our native country, and all that was truly dear to us, in barbarous
+regions, and oftentimes through long dismal woods, and awful solitudes;
+we became linked to each other by the strongest of all ties. Ours, if I
+may so express myself, were kindred spirits; we entered into each
+other’s views, shared each other’s gladness and melancholy, hope and
+despair, and participated in each other’s feelings and amusements. It
+was for the interest of both to do so. It would not have been well for
+any haughtiness or reserve to be manifested towards me under such
+circumstances, merely because accident had thrown me into a lower rank
+in life than my master; and it would have been unfeeling, nay unmanly,
+when bowed down by pain and wretchedness in the heart of Africa, for a
+British officer to refuse, for no other reason, to the humble companion
+of his wanderings that confidence and friendship which he had in some
+measure a right to expect. Such, happily, was not the disposition of
+Captain Clapperton; the difference in our respective conditions was
+willingly levelled, as it certainly ought to have been, by that
+gentleman; and for my part I may justly say, that my attachment for him
+was so great that I would cheerfully have undergone any privation rather
+than that he should have been a sufferer; or, if necessity required it,
+would even have laid down my life with pleasure for the preservation of
+his.
+
+To Capt. Clapperton I owe the existence I enjoy at the present moment;
+and for him I would have sacrificed, and perhaps I _did_ sacrifice on
+particular occasions, every consideration of personal comfort or
+convenience. To “smooth down his lonely pillow;” to mingle my hopes, and
+fears, and distresses, with his; and to render the transition from life
+to eternity as easy as possible, were my employments when the
+unfortunate Captain was stretched out upon his death-bed, in a dismal
+solitary hut in Soccatoo; and these services themselves, Heaven knows,
+carried their own reward along with them. The affectionate grasp of the
+hand—the trembling eye—the _look_ of approbation and
+thankfulness—expressed more eloquently and feelingly than words could
+have done the gratitude of my heroic master and preserver for my humble
+endeavours to serve him, when his cup of pain, disappointment, and
+sorrow, was foaming to the brim; and the readers of my “Wanderings” will
+excuse me for dwelling on this subject in the chapter devoted to the
+illness and decease of Capt. Clapperton, &c. At this distance of time
+and place even, I reflect on that gloomy and distressing period with
+emotion; I recall to my remembrance all that passed there—disease,
+suffering, loneliness, and death; yet do I often wish that my latter end
+may be as gentle as was my master’s; more calm I do not expect it to
+be—less free from pain it cannot be.
+
+After all that I have said on this subject, the charge of having assumed
+too much consequence in speaking so familiarly of Capt. Clapperton, will
+not surely be brought against me; yet in conversation I have heard it
+asserted that this sin was committed in my printed journal; but the
+remark needs no refutation. I have not chosen to alter this imputed
+consequence in the following narrative, simply because there is no
+apparent necessity for doing so; and in this opinion the generality of
+my countrymen will, I am confident, agree with me.
+
+My description of the savage manners and horrid barbarities of the
+people of Badagry, at the celebration of their monthly sacrifices, &c.
+is by no means exaggerated. At present these seem unknown to Englishmen;
+and my reasons for not relating them before are already given. I had no
+intention of having my Journal printed, and therefore did not study to
+render the perusal of it interesting by inserting in it observations
+that did not come strictly within the compass of the plan which I had
+originally laid down for myself.
+
+In the composition of the following pages I must acknowledge my
+obligations to a younger brother, and (with the exception of the
+customary revision of the printed sheets) to him alone. I should feel
+both pleasure and pride in expressing, in this place, my gratitude for
+even a hint received from any other quarter; but as this has not, even
+in a solitary instance, been the case, I have no such thanks to offer.
+Although unused to composition, my brother devoted, during the past
+summer, the little leisure which relaxation from his daily labour
+afforded him, to the office of copying my notes and observations, and
+putting them into something like arrangement. Having become impressed
+with my thoughts, he has “turned them to shape,” and, entering warmly
+into my feelings, he has depicted my emotions, even as I felt them; and
+the public will best discern whether they are true to nature or not.
+
+I beg to introduce this little Work to the notice of my countrymen with
+the greatest humility. They will not judge of it by too severe a
+standard; they will not—I am sure they will not—accuse me of presumption
+in my feeble attempts to portray the manners and peculiarities of a
+strange people. I have done the utmost to render the perusal of my
+Narrative agreeable; and to give the reader a correct idea of the state
+of society in the interior of Africa. It were unreasonable to expect
+that my limited knowledge should permit me to give a learned or laboured
+description of regions which had never before been visited by Europeans;
+yet I repeat I have done the best my power would allow; and no one will,
+I think, feel any disposition to question the truth of this declaration.
+
+                                                           THE AUTHOR.
+
+  TRURO,
+_October_, 1829.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+Since the preceding introductory remarks were written, His Majesty’s
+Government have engaged me to proceed to Fundah, and trace the river
+from thence to Benin; so that before the public will be put in
+possession of the following Narrative, in all probability, I shall be on
+my way to the Western Coast of Africa. In this new undertaking I shall
+be accompanied only by my brother (John Lander), whose assistance in the
+composition of this work I have already acknowledged; and if energy and
+perseverance can avail us any thing, I have the best reasons for
+believing that it will prove as successful as my most sanguine
+expectations lead me to hope that it will. At all events, nothing shall
+be wanting on our parts to accomplish the object in view. If we be so
+unfortunate as to fail in the object, I may say with confidence and
+without vanity, that it shall not be attributed to a want of proper
+spirit and enterprise; since we have made the fixed determination to
+risk every thing, even life itself, towards its final accomplishment. We
+shall endeavour to conform ourselves, as nearly as possible, to the
+manners and habits of the natives; we will not mock their blind
+superstition, but respect it; we will not scoff at their institutions,
+but bow to them; we will not condemn their prejudices, but pity them. In
+fine, we shall do all in our power to ward off suspicion as to the
+integrity of our motives, and the innocency of our intentions; and this
+cannot be done more effectually than by mingling with the people in
+their general amusements and diversions. Confidence in ourselves, and in
+them, will be our best panoply; and an English Testament our safest
+_fetish_. Clothed in _this_ armour, by the blessing of God, we have not
+much to fear; but if, by any casualty or unforeseen misfortune, we
+perish in Africa, and are seen no more, even then our fate will not be
+more dismal than that of many of our predecessors in the same pursuit,
+whose gallant enterprising spirits have sunk into darkness, without a
+voice to record their melancholy end. If _this_ should be our case, our
+countrymen may, perhaps, be moved to respect our memory; and, at all
+events, it is some consolation to know that the gap we may make in
+society will scarcely be observed at all; or, if observed, soon filled
+up:
+
+
+  “For we to the world are like a drop of water
+
+   That in the ocean falls.”
+
+
+  _London_,
+_Dec._ 1829.
+
+
+
+
+                         LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+
+  Portrait of Richard Lander                               Frontispiece.
+
+  Pelicans feeding their young                            vol. II. p. 16
+
+  Funeral of Captain Clapperton                                       78
+
+  Fainting Scene                                                      93
+
+  Crossing the streams at Yariba                                     215
+
+  Heads of Natives with Tattoo marks                                 218
+
+  Ordeal by Poison                                                   257
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+                                ERRATA.
+
+  Page 89, for Kang read _Kong_.
+
+  Page 156, omit the preposition “_to_” after “lead me.”
+
+  From p. 134 to p. 269, for Soccasoo read _Soccatoo_.
+
+  At the head of chap. II. p. 29, for Cape Coast read _Papoe_.
+
+
+
+
+                                 SKETCH
+                                 OF THE
+                             AUTHOR’S LIFE.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+
+Many allusions to my earlier history occurring in the following pages,
+it may not, perhaps, be deemed impertinent on my part, if I should
+attempt to give a short and hasty sketch of my life, devoted as it has
+been to perpetual wandering, and chequered by a thousand misfortunes.
+
+My family is as ancient, I dare say, as that of any upon the face of the
+earth, although, notwithstanding the profoundest research, I have been
+unable to trace its descent, with genealogical accuracy and precision,
+to a more remote era than the period of my grandfather’s nonage; the
+history of all my ancestors previous to him, being either mixed with
+fable, or involved in doubt and uncertainty. If the ancient saying of
+the people of Cornwall, that,
+
+
+  “By Tre, Pol, _Lan_, and _Pen_,
+
+   You may know most Cornishmen,”
+
+
+be entitled to credit, then undoubtedly my family is of pure Cornish
+extraction; and I would respectfully suggest that it has a double claim,
+in the present generation, to the enviable distinction of antiquity, my
+mother’s maiden name being _Pen_-rose, and my father’s name _Lan_-der.
+Thus much for my pedigree; and I have the solitary satisfaction of
+boasting of at least one celebrated character in its humble records, my
+grandfather, by my mother’s side, who was a noted wrestler in his day,
+and lived some fifty years since near the Land’s End.
+
+I am the fourth of six children, and was born at Truro, in Cornwall, in
+1804, on the very day on which Colonel Lemon was elected Member of
+Parliament for the Borough. Owing to this striking coincidence, singular
+as it may seem, my father, who was fond of sounding appellations, at the
+simple suggestion of the doctor who attended the family, added _Lemon_
+to my baptismal name of Richard: an example of the trivial means by
+which people are oftentimes accommodated with an extra name. As nothing
+remarkable occurred for the first five or six years after I came into
+the world, I shall pass them over in silence, simply observing, that
+when yet in infancy, whilst I was in the act of gazing one morning at
+something attached to the ceiling of my father’s stable, a piece of
+iron, having a sharpened edge, fell and entered my forehead; which
+accident was of so serious a nature that I was ill for several weeks,
+and narrowly escaped with life.
+
+My rambling inclinations began to display themselves in early youth. I
+was never easy a great while together in one place, and used to be
+delighted to play truant and stroll from town to town, and from village
+to village, whenever I could steal an opportunity as well; as to mix in
+the society of boys possessing restless habits and inclinations similar
+to my own. I used also to listen with unmixed attention to old women’s
+tales about the manners and ceremonies of the natives of distant regions
+of the earth, and never felt greater pleasure than when, dangling me on
+their knees, or stroking down my face with their aged hands, they used
+to say, “you will be sure to see two kingdoms, Richard, for you have two
+_crowns upon your head_!” Their marvellous descriptions of monsters
+existing, they affirmed, in remote lands, likewise conspired to raise in
+me a longing to be a traveller; for the venerable matrons of my native
+county, moving in the humbler walks of life, like those of most other
+counties and nations, are fond of the wonderful, and endeavour to stamp
+a love of it in the tender mind of youth with all the solemnity and
+earnestness of age and belief. These tales, how incredible soever they
+might have been, made a deep and permanent impression on my thoughts;
+and though so very young, I formed a resolution, or rather felt a strong
+and violent inclination to become a wanderer, in order that the story of
+_my_ adventures might one day rival in interest those to which I had
+listened with so devout an attention; perhaps also a childish feeling of
+pride entered my bosom as I used to say to myself: “And when I shall
+have returned from such and such a place, and seen all the strange
+sights in them, my former companions will look upon me with a mixture of
+wonder and admiration, and I shall excite the envy of the other boys.”
+
+Thus the first period of my life flew swiftly away; and I was no more
+than nine years of age, as nearly as my memory, at this distance of
+time, will allow me to guess, when owing to a series of domestic
+misfortunes, which it would be a tedious and unpleasant task here to
+particularise, I left the paternal roof, and have ever since been almost
+a stranger in the place of my nativity.
+
+The frequent observation of my lamented mother, “Remember, my poor
+child, the old proverb, ‘a rolling stone gathers no moss,’” has been
+entirely thrown away upon me, for between necessity and choice I have
+ever been in motion; and with respect to “_moss_,” taken in its
+figurative signification, I have certainly, in my own person, verified
+the truth of the homely adage above alluded to, scarcely ever having
+been able to retain a single handful in my grasp for any length of time
+together.
+
+At the early age of eleven years I accompanied a mercantile gentleman to
+the West Indies, and whilst in St. Domingo was attacked with the fever
+of the country, suffering so severely under its influence that my life
+was despaired of; but, owing chiefly to the kindness and attention I
+experienced from some benevolent and sympathizing Negro females, joined
+to my youth and a naturally vigorous constitution, I recovered my wonted
+health, and after an absence of three years returned to my native
+country in 1818. From that period till the attainment of my 19th year, I
+lived in the service of various noblemen and gentlemen, one of whom I
+accompanied to France, and other countries on the Continent; when,
+hearing on my return to London, that Major Colebrook, one of His
+Majesty’s Commissioners of Inquiry into the State of the British
+Colonies, was in want of an individual to proceed with him in the
+capacity of servant, I quitted the office I then held, and procured the
+vacant situation with little difficulty. With this gentleman I embarked
+from Portsmouth on board the Lady Campbell, which weighed anchor on the
+thirteenth of February, 1823, and after a stormy and hazardous voyage of
+nearly five months, arrived in Simmons’s Bay, South Africa, on the 13th
+of July following. During the passage our unfortunate vessel, in which
+were upwards of forty ladies and gentlemen (passengers) with twenty
+servants, very nearly escaped destruction no less than three times. In
+the first instance, she encountered a heavy gale on the 8th of March, in
+which she lost her rudder, and leaked four feet of water in the hold.
+After being buffeted about by the wind and waves for four or five days,
+her distressed condition was observed by a small French brig belonging
+to L’Orient, which towed her into that port. There she was laid up for
+six weeks, in order that the serious damage she had sustained might be
+repaired; when, on the 1st of May, she again set sail. On the 10th of
+June following, a lady, passing near the gun-room, discovered it to be
+on fire, and immediately gave the alarm. After incredible exertions, and
+still greater noise, hurry, bustle, and confusion, the progress of the
+flames was arrested, and the fire finally extinguished, to the no small
+gratification of every one on board, who feared, and with justice, that
+from the proximity of the gun-room to the powder-magazine the most
+imminent danger was to be apprehended. This was not the last fright we
+experienced, for on the night of entering Simmons’s Bay the vessel
+unfortunately struck on a rock called by seamen “The Noah’s Ark,” but
+was happily lifted by the swell of the sea from her perilous situation,
+without being materially damaged by the shock; and nothing worthy of
+notice occurred till her arrival before Cape Town, Cape of Good Hope, as
+above mentioned.
+
+After accompanying Major Colebrook in his journeyings from one extremity
+of that important colony to the other,—for a reason which it would be
+superfluous in this place to adduce, I left his service, and sailing
+from Cape Town, arrived in England in 1824. I had not been many weeks in
+the metropolis before I accepted of a situation in the establishment of
+a kinsman to the Duke of Northumberland, where my time passed away
+pleasantly and thoughtlessly enough; till the return of Captain
+Clapperton and Major Denham from the interior of Africa, in the
+following year, again aroused my rambling propensities, and I could not
+help reproaching myself for having remained so long a time in a state of
+comparative indolence. Determined from that hour to embrace the first
+favourable chance of once more quitting my native shores, to whichever
+part of the globe fate or fortune might destine me, I waited impatiently
+for something to take place in furtherance of the object I had most at
+heart; and an opportunity soon offered itself that promised to gratify
+my fondest and warmest inclinations, as well as amply to satisfy the
+inordinate desire I could not suppress of visiting foreign countries.
+
+Having heard that it was the intention of the British Government to send
+out another expedition for the purpose of exploring the yet undiscovered
+parts of central Africa, and of endeavouring to ascertain the source,
+progress, and termination, of the mysterious Niger; and the attempt
+coinciding exactly with my long-cherished wishes, I instantly waited
+upon the late Captain Clapperton, who I was told was to be placed at its
+head, and expressed to that brave and spirited officer the great
+eagerness I felt to become a party, however humble, to the novel and
+hazardous undertaking into which he was about to enter. The Captain
+listened to me with attention, and after I had answered a few
+interrogations, willingly engaged me to be his confidential servant. In
+this interview the keen, penetrating eye of the African traveller, did
+not escape my observation; and by its fire, energy, and quickness,
+denoted, in my own opinion at least, the very soul of enterprize and
+adventure.
+
+Having made the necessary arrangements, I entered with a light heart
+upon my new duties, and enjoyed the thoughts of following the bias of my
+own inclination with as great a zest as if the path of my future life
+had been strewed with flowers.
+
+I had not, however, adopted this line of conduct without deep reflection
+on the difficulties that would, in all probability, accompany it. The
+destruction that had overwhelmed former travellers, engaged in the same
+pursuit, was by no means unfamiliar to me; and the melancholy story of
+Mungo Park and his companions in misfortune, in particular, had often
+crossed my thoughts. I felt a degree of shuddering sympathy for those
+enterprizing individuals, (heightened perhaps by the cloud of darkness
+in which their latter end was shrouded,) which no fictitious tale of woe
+had been ever able to excite in my bosom; yet even this failed in
+staggering my resolution, or overcoming my early and deeply-rooted
+prejudices.
+
+There was a charm in the very sound of Africa, that always made my heart
+flutter on hearing it mentioned: whilst its boundless deserts of sand;
+the awful obscurity in which many of the interior regions were
+enveloped; the strange and wild aspect of countries that had never been
+trodden by the foot of a European, and even the very failure of all
+former undertakings to explore its hidden wonders, united to strengthen
+the determination I had come to, of embracing the earliest opportunity
+of penetrating into the interior of that immense Continent.
+
+In vain my London acquaintances urged upon me the risk I should incur of
+finding a grave in Africa; and equally vain were the kind
+representations of a medical gentleman of the metropolis, who painted to
+me in lively colours the imminent danger to which my life would be
+exposed, by reason of my youth, inexperience, and habit of body. I
+disregarded all the counsel that the world could give me, and perhaps
+secretly depended on the strength of an unimpaired constitution to
+support me in sickness, and bring me out of every difficulty; so prone
+are we to indulge the belief that there is a something different, a
+latent excellence within us, which does not belong to the persons or
+characters of the rest of the world; and so just is the observation of
+the poet, that
+
+
+  “All men think all men mortal but themselves.”
+
+
+As soon as my relatives in Cornwall were made acquainted with the step I
+was about to take, they expressed the deepest concern and sorrow, and
+sent me numbers of letters, couched in the simple and affectionate
+language of nature, expressive of their feelings, and endeavouring to
+dissuade me from proceeding to a region they all so greatly and justly
+dreaded. George Croker Fox, Esq. a highly respectable gentleman,
+residing at Grove Hill, near Falmouth, with the spirit of amiable
+benevolence by which he is so peculiarly distinguished, also exerted
+himself in the same object, promising that if my determination to leave
+England was fixed, rather than that I should expose myself to the
+dangers to be apprehended from African exploration, he would procure me
+a more lucrative situation in one of the South American republics. But
+no inducement under the sun could make me swerve, even in thought, from
+the line of duty I had laid down for myself; or cool the ardour that
+warned me to attempt, at least, the accomplishment of the great object
+towards which my earliest thoughts had been intently directed. Indeed, I
+had already gone too far to recede; and leaving the metropolis with
+Captain Clapperton, I arrived at Portsmouth, in order to embark in the
+Brazen sloop of war, Captain Willis, on the 24th of August, 1825, being
+then in the 21st year of my age.
+
+
+
+
+                               WANDERINGS
+                                   IN
+                                AFRICA.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+                               CHAPTER I.
+
+List of the Gentlemen and others engaged in the Mission — The Brazen
+sails from Portsmouth — Touches at the Madeiras, Canaries, and Cape de
+Verd Islands — Pursues and overtakes a French slave ship — Falls in with
+H.M.S. Swinger — Arrives and anchors at Sierra Leone — The Author’s
+first illness.
+
+
+On arriving at Portsmouth with Captain Clapperton, I found the following
+gentlemen, his associates in the mission, waiting for him:—Captain
+Pearce, R.N. an amiable individual, but whose frame was much too
+delicate for the arduous task he had undertaken; Dr. Morrison, a navy
+surgeon; and Dr. Dickson, a Scotchman, who had served as a surgeon for a
+long period in the West Indies. These were attended by Columbus, a West
+Indian mulatto, who had accompanied Major Denham in the previous
+journey; Pasko, a black, native of Haussa; and myself.
+
+We embarked on the 27th of August, 1825; and, a light breeze springing
+up from the north-east, the vessel got under weigh and made sail, the
+shores of England gradually lessening from our view. After touching at
+Porto Santo, the least of the Madeiras, on the 8th September, where the
+Gentlemen of the Mission landed and obtained various specimens of plants
+and minerals, the vessel dropped anchor at Santa Cruz, Teneriffe, on the
+13th of the same month. Next day, Captain Clapperton and his coadjutors,
+accompanied by three officers of the Brazen, went on shore to make an
+excursion to the Peak; but my master being taken suddenly unwell on the
+road from Santa Cruz, was obliged to remain at Oratavia, a fine but
+irregularly built town, situated at the base of a cluster of mountains,
+out of which rises the celebrated Peak, from which it is distant about
+four or five miles. The travellers having accomplished the object of
+their jaunt, came back with minerals, &c. complaining sadly of fatigue.
+On the 16th, we returned to Santa Cruz, the rugged nature of the roads,
+together with the stubborn disposition of the asses with which we were
+accommodated, being in great measure overlooked by the mirthful humour
+and innocent jocularity of our native guides, who enlivened us by
+singing and playing on guitars nearly the whole of the way to the
+capital, frequently interrupting themselves by shouting “Long live the
+English!” The inhabitants were mostly employed in gathering in the
+grapes, with which the island abounds; and we were met on the road by
+great numbers of them with mules and asses loaded with this delicious
+fruit, returning to their respective habitations.
+
+On the 16th the Brazen again set sail with a fair wind; and on the 24th
+following arrived at St. Antonia, one of the Cape de Verd islands, where
+Captain Clapperton landed, as on former occasions, and obtained
+minerals, &c. from its lofty mountains. The vessel weighed anchor the
+same evening, and nothing requiring particular observation occurred for
+several days, the wind continuing tolerably fair, but squally.
+
+On the 4th of October, a small schooner came in sight, and supposing she
+had slaves on board, the Brazen chased and overtook her. She proved,
+however, to be a Russian merchant vessel, bound for Pernambuco, and was
+of course suffered to proceed on her voyage as soon as the error was
+discovered. On the 8th of the same month another sail was descried, and
+suspecting also that she was engaged in the nefarious traffic in slaves,
+we pursued and boarded her. The suspicions were confirmed on discovering
+196 human beings in this French schooner (which was bound for St.
+Domingo) chained together in couples, and literally crammed between
+decks, which being barely three feet in height the slaves were obliged
+to remain in a sitting posture whilst they stayed on board. So strong
+and disagreeable an odour proceeded from the confined place in which
+these poor creatures were huddled, that the air was tainted with it, and
+I hastened on board the Brazen as fast as I could; shortly after which
+the French vessel proceeded with her living cargo to the place of her
+destination.
+
+On the 19th the Brazen fell in with H.M. ship Swinger, on a cruise. This
+vessel had lost nineteen men with fever, and was short of provisions and
+water. After relieving her wants, and sending a doctor on board, we
+continued our course with a fair light breeze, and on the 21st entered
+the river of Sierra Leone.
+
+The day after our arrival I went on shore, and sauntered alone through
+Free Town, visiting the church and other public buildings. I was grieved
+to see that sacred edifice converted into a market-place, and buyers and
+sellers indecently disputing and wrangling in the temple of God. The
+colony was rather sickly, and the great number of deaths which had
+recently taken place sufficiently attested the extreme unhealthiness of
+that immense “charnel-house.” The country in the neighbourhood of the
+town is rich and fertile, producing in great abundance many kinds of
+fruits and vegetables. West Indian, and other tropical productions are
+cultivated with success, and to a great extent, on the banks of the
+river. Cattle and poultry, which are of inferior size and description,
+are excessively scarce and dear; but the inhabitants do not seem to feel
+much interested in the improvement of the breed of their domestic
+animals. The grass in the colony, though apparently rich and luxuriant,
+contains in reality but little nutriment; and to this cause, more than
+to any other, the sorry condition of the cattle is attributable.
+
+The Kroomen, great numbers of whom reside at Sierra Leone, are a fine
+athletic people; active, clean, and industrious. They have a village at
+no great distance from Free Town, which I visited. It consists of a
+great number of huts, most of which have a little meadow-land, or
+garden, attached to them; but a very small portion of the soil is
+cultivated in its vicinity, the male inhabitants being generally
+employed by the masters of European vessels visiting Sierra Leone, who
+find them extremely serviceable. Notwithstanding their intercourse with
+the English and other European nations, which has been preserved for so
+long a period, the Kroomen still retain their native costume, which
+consists simply of a piece of cotton cloth, tied carelessly round the
+waist, and extending to the knees. Almost the whole of them have
+obtained a smattering of the English tongue, in which they pride
+themselves; whilst many of the more intelligent can converse in it with
+tolerable fluency. Upwards of twenty different languages, it is said,
+are spoken by the mixed population of the colony, who have been
+principally captured from the slave vessels of the Portuguese or
+Spaniards, and have been brought from many of the interior countries.
+
+On the 23d I again went on shore with my gun, to shoot in a savannah at
+a short distance from the town, in which I remained a great part of the
+day, amongst high coarse grass and thick jungle, indiscreetly exposing
+my head to the scorching rays of a vertical sun; in consequence of which
+I was attacked in the evening with giddiness of the head, and other
+symptoms of fever; but having been bled copiously, and having taken
+proper medicine, the progress of the disease was for the time arrested.
+My illness, which was not particularly severe, was of short duration,
+and I fondly expected that this was but the _seasoning_ every European
+should be prepared to encounter on visiting tropical countries.
+
+Having taken in her supplies of fresh water and provisions, the Brazen
+got under weigh on the 27th of October, and made sail for Cape Coast,
+with a fresh breeze from the south-east. On the following day a thunder-
+storm arose, accompanied by heavy and continued rain and vivid flashes
+of lightning, which lasted for several hours; and on the 2d of November
+a sail being perceived at some distance, the ship gave her chase, and on
+coming up with her, she proved to be the Fortune, a Spanish schooner,
+with thirty-five slaves only on board, not having then received her full
+complement. The vessel was immediately captured, and sent back to Sierra
+Leone. Next day another sail was discovered, and being overtaken, was
+found to be a French brig from Martinique, waiting for a cargo of human
+beings.
+
+On the 5th the natives came out to meet the Brazen in canoes, with yams,
+plantains, bananas, cassada, and other productions of the country, which
+they bartered for tobacco, that article being in great request with
+them. Their canoes were lightly and ingeniously constructed, and
+propelled through the water with singular swiftness and dexterity, the
+rowers performing their laborious task in a kneeling posture. They were
+completely destitute of clothing of any kind.
+
+On the 7th we were honored with a visit from the Kroo king, who is a jet
+black of goodly stature, and of simple but prepossessing manners. On his
+head the sable monarch had a European hat, and across his loins was
+fastened a plain piece of cotton cloth purchased from the English. He
+wore a necklace of _gris-gris_ (charms or amulets) made of leather, in
+the merits of which he seemed to repose implicit confidence, believing
+himself the most fortunate of men in having it in his possession; and as
+long as that was the case, he asserted, neither demon nor human being
+could in any wise injure him.
+
+One of his majesty’s attendants, as blindly superstitious as his
+sovereign, to put the virtues of _his_ amulet to the test, entreated me
+several times to discharge a musket loaded with ball at him, at the
+distance of only a few yards, which, when I refused to do, he appeared
+to be considerably chagrined and disappointed, and went away muttering
+that the English were the most uncivil people in the world.
+
+The following day, although the ship was at the distance of several
+miles from the shore, others of the natives came alongside, differing
+but little in external appearance from their neighbours who had visited
+us on the former occasions: but in addition to their other ornaments,
+they wore iron rings round the neck, with little bells of the same metal
+appended, which, on the slightest movement of the wearer, made a
+jingling noise not unlike bells hung to the necks of waggon-horses in
+England. The Cape Palmas king, accompanied by a great number of his
+subjects, also condescended to come on board on the 9th. He is a
+powerful athletic man, having a bold expression of countenance, but of
+gentle and social habits, and he was graciously pleased to converse
+freely with any one on deck, who felt disposed, or had patience enough
+to listen to his remarks.
+
+There was this peculiarity in the appearance of his majesty’s followers:
+their heads were shaved either partially or wholly, and the hair of
+those that had any being cut into a thousand fantastic modes and forms,
+looked exceedingly grotesque. Many of the tribes on the coast, indeed,
+appear to devote a large portion of their time to dressing and
+ornamenting their hair, which in some districts is plaited and braided
+with much care, and peculiar taste and neatness. Others friz out the
+hair like the natives of the Tonga islands, and as it is anointed with a
+species of red clay, softened with palm-oil, which is found in great
+abundance on the coast, it adds greatly to the ferocity of their
+appearance.
+
+The Brazen continued her course with a tolerably fair wind but heavy
+showers, and having passed several towns and villages, the inhabitants
+of some of which occasionally visited her in canoes, arrived at Cape
+Coast on the 14th, at one P.M.
+
+Cape Coast castle is a strongly-built stone fortification, capable of
+containing within its walls the whole of the population of the town it
+defends; the habitations of which are constructed in much the same style
+as those with which the whole line of coast is thickly studded; being
+built of earth, and thatched with rushes, interlaced with palm-leaves.
+
+A great number of people have settled in the town from the interior
+countries; but by far the major part of the inhabitants are Fantees, who
+have voluntarily placed themselves under the protection of the British
+fortress, in order the more effectually to secure to themselves the
+blessings of peace, and preserve their property from the rapacity of
+their more restless countrymen, and the neighbouring nations.
+
+Cleanliness is by no means a characteristic of the Fantees at Cape
+Coast, animal and vegetable substances being allowed to accumulate and
+putrify in the streets, from which is exhaled so noxious an effluvium,
+that the air, impregnated with it, is rendered extremely insalubrious,
+particularly to Europeans.
+
+It is perhaps a fortunate circumstance, that vultures, attracted by the
+intolerable odour, resort thither in vast numbers, voraciously devouring
+the filth which the indolent inhabitants are either too lazy or too
+_ignorant_ to remove; for they cannot be persuaded that disease of any
+kind is engendered by such means. If this had not been the case, it
+would be a miracle indeed that Europeans should exist in the town many
+weeks; and even the Africans themselves, in all likelihood, would
+speedily fall victims to pestilential disorders.
+
+Horned cattle are not less scarce, and yet more diminutive, than at
+Sierra Leone, and their flesh is of the worst possible quality. Horses,
+for some reason, are no where to be found on the Gold Coast, nor are any
+beasts of burden whatever to be met with in the neighbourhood of the
+Castle; loads of every description being carried on men’s heads, and in
+hammocks fastened to long poles, which are borne by two persons.
+
+The market is rather scantily supplied with Guinea-corn, maize, yams,
+sweet cassada, &c. although the soil is amazingly rich, yielding
+abundantly all the necessaries of life. Notwithstanding its fertility,
+however, cultivation is carried on to a very inconsiderable extent, and
+the surrounding country is still thickly wooded.
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER II.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+The ship sails again — Capture of a Spanish schooner with Slaves — The
+natives of the coast come on board — Vessel anchors at Papoe — Sails
+from thence and captures another slave vessel — Arrives at Whydah, where
+Mr. Dickson lands — His progress through the country and reported death
+— The Brazen comes to an anchor in Badagry Roads — The Gentlemen of the
+Mission give a last farewell to the officers on board, and proceed on
+shore.
+
+
+The Brazen sailed from Cape Coast on the 17th, and on the following day
+pursued a fine Spanish brigantine, which was waiting to receive a cargo
+of slaves from the coast. After a short chase the vessel was captured,
+and taken to Accra the same evening. There were only five or six
+Europeans at Accra; but the town, as at Cape Coast, is chiefly inhabited
+by Fantees, and is very populous. We had an opportunity of seeing the
+king of the Fantee nation during our short stay. His majesty, dressed in
+a shabby uniform of an English military officer, was supported on the
+shoulders of four men, and paraded through the town, preceded and
+followed by a number of people, who, by clapping of hands, and beating
+on _tom-toms!_ created a loud and most discordant noise, which might
+have been heard at a considerable distance from the spot.
+
+On the 20th the Brazen departed with her prize from Accra, and came to
+an anchor at Papoe the day after. From that place the brigantine was to
+have taken in her cargo, and the slaves selected were confined in the
+town. As soon as the officers landed from the ship, they were demanded,
+but the king, obstinately refusing at first to deliver them up, was told
+that unless they were immediately produced, his town would be
+cannonaded, he himself and his son taken prisoners, and the slaves
+seized by main force; on which the royal personage seemed to pay a
+little more respect to the imperious summons of the Englishmen; and the
+unfortunate people were shortly after ordered to be liberated. These
+slaves at length made their appearance, and exhibited a long line of
+melancholy faces and emaciated frames, wasted by disease and close
+confinement, and by having suffered dreadfully from scantiness of food,
+and the impure air of their prison-house. They were 231 in number, men,
+women, and children, in a complete state of nudity, and heavily
+manacled; several of them were lamed by the weight of their irons, and
+their skin sadly excoriated from the same cause. All of them appeared in
+the deepest misery, and one little boy in particular was greatly
+distressed, and cried much and bitterly. He had been seized whilst at
+play with his young companions from before the threshhold of his
+parents’ hut, and immediately driven to Papoe with his thoughtless
+playmates. The poor things evinced the liveliest joy on being made
+acquainted with the favorable turn in their affairs, and the gratitude
+they displayed to their deliverers was natural and sincere. Arrangements
+were speedily made for their accommodation on board the prize; and that
+vessel, which was to have borne them to perpetual slavery in a remote
+region, was employed to convey them to hundreds of their countrymen at
+Sierra Leone.
+
+Papoe lies close to the sea, and consists of an assemblage of
+irregularly-built mud huts; a number of lofty cocoa-trees growing in its
+immediate vicinity conducing greatly to the apparent freshness and
+pleasantness of the place. Slavery is carried on to an alarming extent
+by the inhabitants, every one of whom is at all times prepared to
+accompany a slave expedition. They are said to be more ferocious in
+their manners than most tribes on the coast; and if one may be allowed
+to judge from the savage expression of their countenances, the people
+are eminently entitled to this character. The aspect of the country
+presents the same unvaried uniformity of thick forests and extensive
+savannas, intersected with rich plains, that is everywhere observable
+from the sea.
+
+The brigantine having been sent to Sierra Leone with the emancipated
+slaves, the Brazen sailed from Papoe on the morning of the 23d, and
+arrived at Whydah the same evening. Seven sail were at anchor off the
+coast fronting the town, the greater part of which were supposed to be
+waiting for a favourable opportunity to embark slaves. Captain
+Clapperton and Dr. Morrison landed on the following morning, and were
+conveyed in hammocks to the town of Whydah, situated about two English
+miles from the beach. After making observations, and obtaining the
+information they sought, the gentlemen returned the same evening to the
+ship.
+
+On the 25th Dr. Dickson landed to proceed into the interior. The parting
+interview between Capt. Clapperton and the warm-hearted Doctor was
+singularly tender and pathetic. The latter gentleman entertained a
+presentiment that they should never meet again, and his endeavours to
+suppress or disguise his emotion entirely failed in their effect. “Study
+the character of the natives well,” said the Captain to Dr. Dickson, as
+he yet lingered on the deck; “respect their institutions, and be kind to
+them on all occasions; for ’tis on paying proper respect to these rules,
+and these only, that you must ground your hope of being successful in
+your progress through the country; and the conduct of the people to you
+will be guided solely by your behaviour towards them. Set a guard over
+your temper, my dear Dickson, and never let it lead you into error.” “We
+meet at Jennah, then,” said the Doctor, with an inquiring eye, and
+anxious, half-doubting look: “We meet at Jennah,” answered Captain
+Clapperton, solemnly. “Once more adieu, my dear Dickson, and may God
+bless and protect you.” The Doctor then tore himself from the deck, and
+we saw him no more.
+
+Doctor Dickson was met at Whydah by M. de Souza, a Portuguese, and Mr.
+James, an Englishman, who accompanied him to Abomey, the capital of
+Dahomy, where he was received both by the king and his subjects with a
+hearty welcome, and every mark of kindness and respect. He was attacked
+with fever shortly after his arrival in that metropolis; but on his
+recovery proceeded in high spirits, with an escort of one hundred men,
+furnished as a protection by his Dahoman majesty, to Shar, that
+monarch’s authority extending no further in that direction.
+
+On my return from the interior I was told by a person at Jennah, that
+Dr. Dickson, having proceeded about two days’ journey into the country
+from Shar, (where he had arrived in safety,) for some reason, which was
+not correctly explained, had a serious misunderstanding with a party of
+the natives, and his life being threatened by its chief, he was so
+violently exasperated that he attempted to throttle that individual;
+which being observed by his followers, they fell upon the unfortunate
+doctor, overcame, and slew him.[1] Thus this gentleman was the first of
+the mission that fell a victim to the cause of African research.
+
+On the 26th the ship departed from Whydah, and came to an anchor in
+Badagry Roads on the 28th.
+
+The appearance of the coast from Sierra Leone to Badagry is, generally
+speaking, singularly beautiful and attractive. The soil differs in
+various districts, but consists chiefly of a rich reddish mould,
+intermixed with sand, which renders it wonderfully fertile. It yields in
+the greatest abundance most, if not all, of the necessaries of life, and
+many of its luxuries; and millet, Indian corn, yams, sweet potatoes,
+cassada, plantains, the banana, &c. are cultivated to a considerable
+extent by the natives. Trees in great number and variety, of magnificent
+dimensions and luxuriant foliage, adorn the face of the country, the
+apparent beauty of which is infinitely heightened by the number of small
+villages, embellished with lovely trees, dotting the borders of the sea;
+amongst which the stately palm, both on account of the peculiarity and
+elegance of its form, must ever hold a distinguished place. Thick
+forests are also spread over the landscape, the gloomy shade of which,
+contrasted with the smiling verdure of cultivated plains, pleasantly
+studded with clumps of cocoa and other trees, and enlightened by a
+brilliant sun, offers a variegated and unrivalled picture of rural
+beauty, which the eye feasts upon with peculiar pleasure.
+
+It is melancholy to reflect, however, that a great portion of this
+delightful region is peopled with a race of savages and semi-barbarians,
+speaking a variety of languages, but all having nearly the same customs,
+and engaged in perpetual broils amongst each other. The manners and
+ceremonies of the people are indeed the same, essentially, as they were
+when the coast was first discovered by the Portuguese in the fifteenth
+century; neither time, nor their familiar intercourse with Europeans for
+so many ages, having apparently in the slightest degree either
+enlightened their minds, or out-rooted their unmeaning superstitions,
+which still retain all their original freshness and absurdity. It is
+much to be feared that, instead of copying and imbibing the virtues of
+their white visitants, they have only adopted their most odious vices.
+Intoxication, which in all probability was unknown, or at most but
+partially indulged in, by the aboriginal inhabitants, is followed to a
+beastly excess at the present time, and is the parent of a thousand
+irregularities.
+
+Slavery, by far the most appalling evil that can befal the human race,
+is carried on in particular districts to a deplorable extent, and
+spreads like a pestilence through the country. It is impossible to
+contemplate this striking and peculiar feature in the African habits,
+without experiencing the most lively emotions of surprise and sorrow. It
+has insinuated itself so deeply into the very life and spirit of the
+laws and institutions of the people, that the period seems remote indeed
+when it may fairly be presumed it will be wholly eradicated from them.
+It has also produced the most baleful effects, causing anarchy,
+injustice, and oppression to reign in Africa, and exciting nation to
+rise up against nation, and man against man; it has damped all ardour
+for improvement, in the absence of every stimulus to industry and
+exertion, and infinitely sunk the character of the people in the eyes of
+the rest of the world; it has covered the face of the country with
+desolation, and filled the minds of its sorrowing inhabitants with
+mourning, lamentation, and woe: but above all, it has confirmed them in
+the darkest and most shameful ignorance, and rivetted them more closely
+than ever in the bonds of a ridiculous and abominable superstition, to
+the utter exclusion of a more amiable and rational belief. All these
+evils, and many others, has slavery accomplished; in return for which
+the Europeans, for whose benefit, and by whose connivance and
+encouragement it has flourished so extensively, have given to the
+heartless natives but ardent and intoxicating spirits, tawdry silk
+dresses, and paltry necklaces of beads!
+
+The day after the arrival of the Brazen at Badagry (the 29th of
+November), the gentlemen of the mission, and the officers of the ship,
+assembled on the quarter-deck to take a final farewell of each other;
+and some of the latter were deeply affected, as with a faltering voice
+and agitated manner they breathed their hopes that success might attend
+the perilous undertaking to which their enterprising friends had so
+willingly devoted themselves. There was something so moving in the
+pathetic spectacle of Englishmen parting under a strong persuasion,
+almost amounting to a conviction, of meeting no more in _this_ world; in
+seeing the manly resolution and stubborn indifference of British
+officers combating with the tenderer and more amiable feelings of human
+nature, that I myself could with difficulty stifle my emotion; and to
+dispel the gloom which hung upon my mind, I bade the officers a hasty
+and respectful adieu, and shaking hands with many of the honest seamen
+on deck, I sprang into a canoe that lay alongside the Brazen; and as two
+of the natives were rowing it towards the shore, I took the opportunity
+of playing “_Over the hills and far away_,” on a small bugle horn which
+I had brought with me. This elicited the admiration of the sailors of
+the ship, and I landed amidst the hearty cheers and acclamations of them
+all.
+
+Shortly afterwards Captains Clapperton and Pearce, and Dr. Morrison,
+with Pasko and Dawson,[2] also landed; but Columbus the mulatto, who had
+been ill almost from the period of his leaving England, was too weak to
+accompany them.
+
+The landing was rendered extremely dangerous by reason of a tremendous
+surf, which rolled violently, and to a great height, for many miles
+along the coast, and the canoe in which Mr. Houtson (an English
+merchant, who was taken on board at Whydah, for the purpose of
+accompanying the mission,) was conveyed from the Brazen, with
+astronomical instruments, &c. was swamped when at some distance from the
+beach. This accident had nearly cost that gentleman his life; for after
+being tossed about on the foam and waves for a few minutes, his strength
+utterly forsook him, and he ceased to struggle with the waters. In this
+perilous state he was observed by two of the blacks who had been with
+him in the ill-fated canoe; and, at the imminent risk of their own
+lives, the men succeeded in conveying Mr. Houtson, although totally
+insensible, to the shore, where proper remedies having been
+administered, he shortly afterwards recovered. The natives subsequently
+dived after the instruments, &c. and were fortunate enough to regain the
+whole, although being seriously damaged by the water, many of them were
+of little, if any, use afterwards.
+
+Neither an English boat, nor a canoe of the ordinary form, can possibly
+live, even a single minute, in this dreadful surf; and the natives have
+canoes of singular construction, and exceedingly strong, made purposely
+to brave its violence; yet, as the preceding casualty clearly shows,
+even these are insufficient to preserve the passenger from the danger
+apprehended. The canoes here spoken are of immense size and thickness,
+and manned by nineteen naked men, who are well skilled in the art of
+rowing. On every occasion a Fetish-man, covered from head to foot with
+_gris-gris_, stands in the bow invoking the “Spirit of the Waters” to be
+propitious, and quell the raging of the sea. He continues alternately
+watching the motion of the billows and praying in a low mournful tone
+till the boat reaches the shore or the vessel, when thanks are
+immediately returned to the water-divinity. When he fancies his petition
+has been heard, the Fetish-man, catching a favourable opportunity,
+suddenly claps his hands in a transport, and exclaims, with violent
+gesticulation and wildness of manner, “i yaw, i yaw!” (now is the time,
+now is the time,) which inspires his countrymen in the canoe with fresh
+energy, and dashing their paddles into the water, they propel their
+enormous bark through the foamy waves with the swiftness of lightning.
+
+I must own, I was by no means sorry that Columbus did not proceed with
+us; he was a man of strong and easily excited passions, and was besides
+malicious and revengeful. He used to take offence at the most trifling
+accident in the world, and with oaths and bitter imprecations, curse the
+individual whom he conceived had been the author of it, vowing at the
+same time to be revenged. He frequently declared, during the voyage,
+that he himself would be the solitary survivor of the party: all the
+others, he affirmed, would die before they had been in the country many
+weeks, and he should have the _pleasure_ of returning alone;
+nevertheless he was himself the very first victim to the effects of that
+climate which he had proudly boasted could not be prejudicial to
+him,—for being subsequently landed at Whydah, and overtaking Dr. Dickson
+at Abomey, he proceeded with that gentleman on the road to Shar, but
+being attacked with fever, expired, I have been informed, before they
+had reached that place.
+
+A day or two previously to our leaving the ship, I had by some means or
+other unintentionally offended Columbus; the next time he saw me, he
+exclaimed, grinning horribly, in a tone and gesture which could not be
+mistaken, and which I shall not easily forget, “I shall one day have the
+pleasure of seeing you parching with thirst on the back of a camel; and
+rather than give you one drop of water by —— you shall perish there;
+_that_ will be my revenge!”
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER III.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+The Travellers reach Badagry, and leave that city on the 7th of December
+— Dr. Morrison’s illness — Arrival at Latoo — Captain Pearce and the
+Author attacked with fever — Enter Jannah — Continued and alarming
+illness of the party — Their progress — Dr. Morrison returns to Jannah.
+
+
+At the distance of about half a mile from the beach we came to a small
+creek, near the mouth of which was a solitary fetish-hut, ornamented in
+front with a species of small shining stone, which abounds in the
+country. Near this sacred spot were deposited several bundles of wood,
+and various articles of earthenware of rude manufacture; but not a
+single individual could any where be seen. In such reverence are these
+pagan temples held by the natives, that property, how valuable soever it
+may be, placed within a certain distance of them, is considered as being
+under the special protection of their gods; in consequence of which,
+though it may remain unclaimed for any length of time, it is rarely
+known to be damaged or stolen.
+
+After crossing the river Formosa, which is about a mile in width, we
+arrived at Badagry at five o’clock in the afternoon, and were
+comfortably accommodated in the dwelling of Mr. Houtson who had
+previously resided at that place. The house, like every other in the
+town, except the king’s, is constructed of bamboo cane, and has but one
+story. On Friday, the 2d of December, the King, Adólee, sent us a
+present of a bullock, a fine pig, and some fowls; and on the following
+day honoured us with a visit, in all the pomp and barbarous magnificence
+of African royalty. He was mounted on a diminutive black horse, and
+followed by about one hundred and fifty of his subjects, who danced and
+capered before and behind him; whilst a number of musicians, performing
+on native instruments of the rudest description, promoted considerably
+the animation and vivacity of their motions and gestures. He was
+gorgeously arrayed in a scarlet cloak, literally covered with gold lace,
+and white kerseymere trowsers similarly embroidered. His hat was turned
+up in front with rich bands of gold lace, and decorated with a splendid
+plume of white ostrich feathers, which, waving gracefully over his head,
+added not a little to the imposing dignity of his appearance! Close to
+the horse’s head marched two boys, each carrying a musket in his right
+hand; they wore plain scarlet coats, with white collars and large cocked
+hats, tastefully trimmed with gold lace, which costly material all
+classes excessively admire. Two fighting chiefs accompanied their
+sovereign on foot, and familiarly chatted with him as he advanced. On
+approaching within a short distance of us, the monarch dismounted, and
+squatting himself on the ground outside our house, an umbrella was
+unfurled and held over his head, whilst a dozen of his wives stood round
+their lord and master
+
+
+  “With diverse-colour’d fans, whose wind did seem
+
+   To glow the _delicate_ cheeks which they did cool!”
+
+
+for the atmosphere was sultry and the heat oppressive. After paying our
+respects to our august visitor,—to do him honour, I was desired to hoist
+an English union-jack over him. This was the climax of his glory and his
+pride; he was sensibly delighted, and looked as childishly vain as a
+girl when she first puts on a new dress. All hands now began to drink
+rum, and the spectacle became highly and singularly grotesque. Laying
+aside all pretensions to superiority of rank, his Badagrian majesty
+forgot his illustrious birth, and was as cheerful and merry as the
+meanest and most jovial of his subjects. Seated on the ground, his
+splendid dress glittering in the rays of the sun, surrounded by his
+generals, pages, and wives, with a British flag held by a white floating
+over his princely head,—his soul softened by the most inspiring and
+delicious music! and his animal spirits exhilarated by large and
+repeated draughts of his favourite cordial,—he was in a transport of
+joy, and looked and spoke as if he had been the happiest man in the
+universe; while the shouts and bustle of the people, the cracking of
+fingers and clapping of hands, the singing, and dancing, and capering,
+all was so novel, and so African, that it made an impression on my
+memory which will never be erased from it. This debauch continued for a
+couple of hours; when all the rum being consumed, and Adólee becoming
+rather tipsy, his majesty begged me to favour him, before his departure,
+with a tune on my bugle horn, of which he had formed the most
+extravagant notions. To this modest request I cheerfully acceded, and
+played several English and Scotch airs, until I became so completely
+exhausted that my breath was entirely spent, the king not permitting me
+to drop the instrument till then. Owing either to the effects of the
+liquor Adólee had partaken of so freely, or to the sound of the music,
+&c. he was quite in an extasy, and shook hands and thanked me at the
+close of every tune. The king then remounted, and the procession
+returned in the same order, and performed the same anticks as when it
+came. Captain Clapperton and his associates accompanied the monarch to
+his palace; whilst I and my companions repaired to our peaceful
+habitation.
+
+Adólee, recovered from the fatigue and revelry of the preceding day,
+visited us again on the third, and minutely examined every article
+belonging to the mission, without, however, expressing the slightest
+inclination to reserve any thing for himself. When the use of the
+telescope was explained to him, he could not conceal his astonishment,
+and fancied its maker to be more than mortal; the medicine-chest also,
+and its contents, excited his curiosity and attention, and he quitted us
+with an exalted opinion of the knowledge and ingenuity of the English
+people.
+
+His majesty, without pomp or ceremony, visited us daily till the period
+of our departure from his capital; he had the reputation of being a
+friendly, good sort of man, and was apparently about forty or forty-five
+years of age, five feet nine inches in height, and rather inclining to
+corpulency.
+
+The market, which is held daily, is tolerably supplied with poultry,
+yams, maize, palm wine, country cloth, &c. &c. The cattle are no better,
+either in size or condition, than those at Sierra Leone, and on other
+parts of the coast.
+
+On Wednesday, the 7th, after a drinking revel with the Badagrian great
+men, we embarked in canoes on a branch of the Lagos river, accompanied
+by Adólee and many of his chiefs, in separate canoes, and people in
+armed boats for our mutual protection, in case of surprise or attack.
+Landing about a mile and a half from the junction of the Gazie creek,
+Adólee and some of his people returned to Badagry, and we slept in the
+evening on the western bank, in the open air, without even the shelter
+of a single tree. The moon shone brightly and beautifully in the night,
+and not a sound disturbed the solemn tranquillity of the place, all
+being as still and quiet as the grave. Next morning we found ourselves
+wet to the skin with the heavy dew that had fallen in our sleep; and in
+all probability were thus sown the seeds of those disorders which
+subsequently broke out with such fatal virulence, and produced
+suffering, disease, and death, in our little party. In the forenoon I
+accompanied my master and Mr. Houtson to Bookhar, a neighbouring town,
+and the stores and baggage were ordered to be sent after us. On arriving
+at that place we seated ourselves under the branches of a large tree,
+and were quickly visited by hundreds of the inhabitants, who came in
+large companies to view us, and as soon as their curiosity was
+satisfied, made way for their impatient countrymen. The children, who
+were not tall enough to catch a glimpse of us through the crowd, were
+perched on the shoulders of their parents or relatives, who pointed us
+out to them, observing, “There they are!” as if we had been wild beasts,
+or monsters of some sort. All, however, behaved with the strictest
+propriety, and although they repeatedly laughed to each other on making
+observations on the singularity of our appearance or the whiteness of
+our skin, not a single word of derision or disrespect was uttered
+against the strangers.
+
+Whilst we were stared at in this manner, the crowd suddenly divided in
+order to make way for a fighting chief belonging to the army of the king
+of Katunga, who came in full state to visit us, riding on a small horse,
+and followed by a large retinue, two of whom were also mounted. On his
+head he wore a cap and feathers, evidently of European manufacture, and
+he was clad in a scarlet jacket, fluttering in rags, with dirty yellow
+facings, and loose trousers of faded nankeen—a dress of which he was
+extravagantly vain. The king’s messengers having had a consultation with
+the chief, the latter dismounted, and sat himself down at the distance
+of about a stone’s-throw from our tree. Captain Clapperton then sent him
+an umbrella as a token that we were amicably disposed towards him, and
+wished him well; on receipt of which his attendants set up so terrific a
+noise, with drums, clapping of hands, &c. that it was utterly impossible
+to hear ourselves speak while it lasted. As soon as this clamour had
+subsided the chief arose, and coming up to us, shook hands with each,
+very complacently seating himself by our sides. He expressed himself
+overjoyed at seeing white men, and complimented the English, in no
+measured language, for the good they had done in trading with the people
+of the country. A glass or two of rum, which he swallowed with peculiar
+delight, set the warrior-chief in better humour than ever, and he
+repeated his encomiums in so loud a key that they were heard by his
+attendants, who, out of respect, had retreated several yards from the
+spot, when the music of the drum was revived with greater spirit than
+before, interrupted only by immense clapping of hands, and other
+demonstrations of joy. This “harmony of sweet sounds” continued till the
+mighty chief left us, which took place the moment he perceived that no
+more spirits were forthcoming.
+
+As soon as we had fairly got rid of our garrulous visitor, we rose to
+pay a visit to the caboceer, or chief of the town, whom we found in
+earnest conversation with his elders, and a few of his old grey-headed
+wives, altogether forming the most venerable looking group of human
+beings I ever saw. The profoundest silence prevailed as we drew near,
+and every eye was anxiously fixed upon us. The chief was a tall thin
+man, well stricken in years, and respectably dressed in a silk tobe and
+trousers of country cloth. On his head he wore a cap so thickly studded
+with various coloured glass beads that the material of which it was
+composed could with difficulty be distinguished; and small gold colored
+tassels of beads hung from it to the shoulders. The cap was neatly and
+fancifully made, and set off the black ill-natured face of its owner to
+great advantage. After paying the usual compliments, goora nuts and
+water were presented, and my master explaining to the chief who and what
+we were, and what motives had induced us to visit the country, with
+which he expressed himself perfectly well satisfied, we were conducted
+to his residence; receiving shortly afterwards a present of a sheep,
+some yams, and fire-wood. Many of the chief’s young wives stole every
+opportunity to peep through holes in the walls at the white men, but
+when detected gratifying their curiosity in this manner, they were
+excessively confused, and ran off and hid themselves.
+
+In the evening Captain Pearce arrived with the baggage from the banks of
+the river; and in the night it was guarded by the soldiers of the king
+of Badagry, who serenaded us till the next morning with a most
+astounding concert of drums, &c. in order, as they asserted, to deter
+thieves from plundering the goods.
+
+Near the entrance of the town, on the left side of the road, stands a
+solitary fetish-hut, of large dimensions, with a number of wooden
+figures, carved in bas-relief, some in a kneeling and some in a
+recumbent posture, placed outside the walls; these idols the inhabitants
+worship, and ascribe miraculous powers to their agency.
+
+We arose at an early hour on Thursday: but the old hypocritical chief,
+alleging that he had not received a present proportionate to his
+respectability or expectations, would neither exert himself in any way
+to procure a single individual to convey the baggage, nor appeared
+willing for us to leave till he had finished a long-winded harangue,
+which had already occupied three hours, and threatened to last at least
+as many more, when his tongue was fortunately stopped by the two
+Badagrian Generals clapping their hands on his lips. Owing to this
+circumstance a few individuals only volunteered to assist us, amongst
+whom was one of the chief’s daughters, a bouncing woman of five-and-
+twenty, who carried the canteen,—so that our Badagrian escort were
+obliged to undertake that office themselves. We were equally unfortunate
+in our inquiries for hammock-men, not a single individual in the town
+being willing to engage himself in what all ranks conceive to be an
+occupation fit only for horses; but Captain Clapperton having borrowed
+the horse of a Badagrian chief, he and Mr. Houtson agreed to ride him in
+turns. We took a short route across the country, whilst Captain Pearce
+and Dr. Morrison proceeded to Dagnoo by a safer but more circuitous
+road.
+
+It was evening when we left Bookhar, and it soon becoming dark, we had
+to grope our way on a narrow foot path, winding through a gloomy dismal
+forest, and rendered almost impervious to man or beast, except on the
+beaten track, by reason of thick entangling underwood. To add to our
+misery, Captain Clapperton became so painfully galled in consequence of
+riding on the back of a lean horse without a saddle, that he preferred
+walking the remainder of the way, although wearing only slippers; these
+were soon lost, and he was obliged to limp a considerable distance
+barefooted, so that his feet were swollen, and blistered dreadfully, and
+before reaching Isako were literally bathed in blood.
+
+We were informed in the village that the party with the baggage had left
+that place some time before for Dagnoo, whither we were obliged to
+follow it, preceded by a number of the kind inhabitants with burning
+torches to show us the intricate path, which did not, however, prevent
+our stumbling at every step. We arrived at Dagnoo about midnight, our
+clothes being torn to ribbons, and all of us excessively fatigued from
+the effects of so long and unpleasant a walk; and on finding that the
+beds had been sent still further on, we were again under the necessity
+of sleeping in the open air, exposed to a heavy dew, which completely
+saturated the remnant of our dress before morning.
+
+We arose early, and after crossing a small creek in the vicinity of
+Dagnoo, continued our journey, through a vast primeval forest, sometimes
+broken by a grove of palm-trees, a field of Indian corn, and even a
+whole village in large open places. We were met in the path by numbers
+of the natives of both sexes, with bundles of palm-leaves on their
+heads, used for the purpose of thatching their huts; and the wild shrill
+cry of the grey parrot resounded from the huge branches of the trees.
+
+On arriving at Humba, we found Captain Pearce and Dr. Morrison at the
+chief’s residence, waiting to receive us; and shortly afterward Captain
+Clapperton was taken very unwell with fever, having had a slight attack
+of ague in the course of the day. The town was in ruins, and its
+inhabitants appeared in a truly pitiable state; nevertheless singing and
+dancing, and music-playing, were kept up during the whole of the night,
+with as much spirit and good humour as if the people had been the
+happiest in the world.
+
+On the morning of the 11th the baggage was sent on, and we walked to
+another village at no great distance from Humba, although my master was
+so extremely weak that he was barely able to undertake even so short a
+journey on foot. When we entered the place, we found the carriers
+detained by command of the chief, until a flask of rum, by way of
+tribute, was given him. He came up as soon as he saw us, with a
+leopard’s skin thrown carelessly over his shoulders, and repeated his
+determination not to let the men proceed till his request was complied
+with. The old man was however satisfied with a strong glass of grog,
+prepared for him by Mr. Houtson, each mouthful of which, instead of
+swallowing, he adroitly squirted into the mouths of his longing
+attendants, who stood gaping, with glistering eyes, to receive the
+liquor thus deliciously refined, and which was relished by the whole
+party with peculiar satisfaction! The carriers were then allowed to go
+on with the baggage without further molestation, and Captain Clapperton
+got into a hammock; but the bearers had proceeded only a few paces, when
+it was for some unaccountable reason suddenly let down, and the fellows
+scampered away as fast as their legs could carry them. It was afterwards
+taken up by our own party, and conveyed through Ackongujie, a pleasant
+village surrounded by fertile land, to a town called Eto, in which the
+bearers were changed, and we proceeded through thick woods till we
+arrived at Sattoo, where we slept, after having made an excellent supper
+on a goat the chief had sent us. Next morning we pursued our journey
+early, and at noon reached the pleasant town of Bidgie, near to which
+were extensive plantations of corn and plantains. The chief, a fine
+young man named Lollakelli, who was perpetually smiling, pressed us to
+stay with him the remainder of the day; and the inhabitants, who came in
+crowds to see us, passing the same compliment, after a little hesitation
+it was accepted, and we slept there.
+
+Dr. Morrison felt himself indisposed in the evening, with slight
+symptoms of fever, and swelling of the legs; but next morning being
+partially recovered, we proceeded in good spirits to the borders of a
+river we had to cross, Lollakelli, with several of his people
+accompanying us. Mr. Houtson and myself embarked in the first canoe, but
+we were an hour and half on the water before we could reach the landing-
+place, situated on the eastern bank: nor did the other canoes meet with
+better success. All being at length safely over, we pursued our journey,
+and our road lying nearly the whole of the way through a dried swamp
+overgrown with rushes, travelling was thereby rendered extremely
+uncomfortable. About mid-day my master became exhausted, in consequence
+of fatigue and the excessive heat; and resting himself in the shade of
+some diminutive trees for a few minutes, a person on horseback passed
+by, who seeing him reposing on the earth, dismounted, and offered him
+the use of his horse. This being gratefully accepted, the party was
+immediately in motion, and the generous black walked with us to
+Atalabora. On entering that village we found the baggage detained for
+want of carriers, who had been sent for from an adjoining town, and had
+not then arrived; so that Captain Pearce, who felt seriously indisposed,
+and Dr. Morrison, the other invalid, thought it necessary to refresh
+themselves with an hour or two’s sleep, in the principal hut in the
+town; whilst Mr. Houtson, my master, and myself, took the opportunity of
+stretching ourselves at full length underneath the branches of a
+spreading tree, the heat being oppressive, and unrelieved by a single
+zephyr. The expected carriers having arrived, and the sick expressing
+themselves somewhat strengthened with the short nap they had enjoyed,
+they were first sent forwards, and the other gentlemen, with myself,
+followed them. The road was quite level, and lay through a small town
+called Funnie, across rich plantations of yams. Towards evening we were
+met by a person from the chief of Laboo, with horses for our
+accommodation. We immediately mounted the beasts, and journeying at an
+easy rate, entered Laboo by moonlight.
+
+The town is delightfully situated on a rising ground, commanding an
+extensive and noble prospect; the approach to it is through a beautiful
+walk of trees, between which at certain measured distances, fetish-
+houses are erected, which are held in the greatest veneration by the
+inhabitants. Immediately on our arrival we were conducted to the chief,
+whom we found sitting under the verandah of his dwelling, and who
+politely welcomed us to Laboo, observing that he had been anxiously
+expecting us for some hours before. Goora nuts, as usual, were
+presented, with water in a certain chamber utensil which shall be
+nameless, the odd service to which it was applied causing us to laugh
+heartily; and the chief became as sociable after we had been in his
+company a few minutes only, as if he had been acquainted with us for
+years. Dr. Morrison was brought into the town about two hours after, in
+a weak and helpless state; and on Wednesday the 14th, I was myself taken
+extremely unwell with _coup-de-soleil_, or sun-stroke, having
+incautiously left my head uncovered for some time on the preceding day.
+Captain Pearce also felt much worse towards the evening of the 14th, so
+that the day after that gentleman, and Dr. Morrison and myself, were
+obliged to be conveyed in hammocks on men’s heads, to Jannah, where we
+arrived an hour before the rest of the party.
+
+The inhabitants quickly surrounded the tree under which we had been
+placed, and teazed us with a thousand questions which we were unable to
+answer. Meantime a dense crowd had collected in front of us, and
+welcomed the _red_ men as we were termed, (our skin being at that time
+much blistered by the rays of the sun,) by drumming, and singing and
+dancing. In our languid state, we were ill able to bear this eternal
+din, and entreated the people to conduct us to a hut, for that we were
+very ill; but they answered with the greatest unconcern, that the king,
+whose house was directly opposite, must of necessity see us before we
+ventured to stir from the spot; that he was the greatest man between
+Badagry and Katunga; and that it would not be well for us to offend him
+by being too importunate in our solicitations. We at length lost all
+patience, and observing a large empty shed in the centre of the square,
+which we found to be the palaver-house or hall of council, we ventured
+to crawl into it as well as we could, being only a few yards from the
+tree. Captain Pearce and Dr. Morrison had then their beds made; but mine
+being rolled up, I was too weak to spread it, and so I lay along the
+bare ground. As soon as Captain Clapperton and Mr. Houtson had made
+their appearance, the noise was hushed for a moment, and shortly
+afterwards the chief himself, accompanied by about fifty of his wives,
+approached, and, whilst they stationed themselves at a short distance
+from us, the latter struck up a native tune, which they sang loudly, and
+with much feeling; indeed there was a solemnity and pathos about it that
+reminded me of the most impressive church-music of my own country. As
+soon as the sound of the ladies’ voices had ceased, the band played a
+lively air, in which the singers occasionally joined; and at the
+conclusion of the concert a message was sent from the king to the
+palaver-house, for the _red men_ that were well to make their
+appearance. Accordingly Captain Clapperton and Mr. Houtson went to the
+chief, who, at the opening of the conference, I could perceive, as I lay
+on the earth, to be violently agitated speaking with great apparent
+anger, and pointing several times to a silver knife that was stuck in
+his girdle. After kniting his brows, and frowning for a minute or two,
+his features suddenly relaxed into a gentler expression, and graciously
+smiling, he shook hands cordially with the gentlemen, and entering the
+palaver-house, extended his royal hand to us for the like purpose. He
+was attired in a loose yellow silk tobe, and trousers of country cloth;
+and his cap of red velvet had a purple silk tassel appended to the
+crown. Like most of his countrymen, the chief or king of Jannah was fond
+of displaying his conversational powers, and when answering any
+questions that were put to him, or making observations on what struck
+him as being singular or remarkable in our appearance, he rattled a
+child’s silver whistle and bells (of English manufacture), which he held
+in his left hand, by way of accompaniment to his voice, which was
+certainly not the most harmonious in the world.
+
+We were subsequently conducted to a house which was partly occupied, and
+too small for our accommodation; so that my master, Mr. Houtson, and
+Dawson were obliged to remain under the verandah, neither of the others
+being well enough to follow their example. In the evening the king came
+alone, and plainly dressed, to visit us, and in this instance was very
+inquisitive and communicative. He wished particularly to understand our
+business with the sultan of Yariba, for, as we afterwards learnt, a
+messenger from the coast had informed him that the white men’s object
+was expressly and solely to make war upon that monarch and dethrone him;
+but the sorry plight in which we then were disproved the assertion; and
+the chief himself acknowledged that he did not place the slightest
+confidence in the unfounded rumour.
+
+On Friday I became considerably worse, and on the following day my life
+was despaired of. In the evening I was bled in the temple; but the
+doctor, who was himself suffering from fever, being unable to hold the
+instrument steadily, inadvertently thrust it into my skull. This
+accident occasioned the most excruciating agony, and made me shriek with
+pain. I passed the night in a manner that cannot be described, but next
+morning felt much easier and better. On Monday, however, the fever
+returned with more violence than ever, attended by a severe head-ache
+that almost drove me distracted, and at my own suggestion Dr. Morrison
+ordered my head to be shaved. To perform this delicate operation a
+native barber was at length found, who came wielding a tremendous knife
+curved like a reap-hook, instead of a razor, and began his avocation in
+a most brutal manner, just like a clumsy English butcher shaving a
+slaughtered pig; insomuch, that when his labour was finished, my skull
+was scalped almost as effectually as if it had been done by the tomahawk
+of a North American Indian. Although my head was thus miserably
+excoriated, a large blister, covering the whole of it, was applied; and
+my suffering was heightened to the utmost degree of intensity; so that I
+lost my reason, and in the evening was completely delirious. In this
+state, as I subsequently learnt, I sprang from my couch, and being
+animated with the fury of a maniac, knocked down the doctor and my
+master, broke and destroyed every thing within my reach, and when in the
+act of escaping in my night-dress from the door, was forcibly dragged
+back to my bed by the united strength of the whole party, who had been
+alarmed with the noise I had made. Weakened and exhausted by this mad
+prank, the phrenzy left me, and reason returned, but with it came the
+loss of speech. About an hour afterwards a consultation was held by my
+bed-side; and the doctor having carefully felt my pulse, I was comforted
+by the expressed opinion, that it would be impossible for me to live
+throughout the night. Much to the astonishment of all, however, on
+Tuesday the disorder had abated so greatly, that I was enabled to sit up
+and converse rationally with those around me: my health, in fact, seemed
+to return almost as rapidly as I had lost it.
+
+Dr. Morrison and Captain Pearce, in the meantime, continued alarmingly
+ill, and evidently getting worse. Their hollow eyes, sunk deeply in
+their sockets, and their skin exhibiting a sallow and cadaverous hue,
+they looked more like walking spectres than living human beings;
+insomuch, that Captain Clapperton, distressed at their altered
+appearance, urged upon each of them the necessity of their either
+remaining at Jannah, or returning, under the care of Mr. Houtson, to the
+Brazen. Both gentlemen, however, declared their invincible repugnance to
+the measure, and on the contrary expressed themselves resolutely bent to
+proceed at all risks: Captain Pearce, in particular, felt greatly hurt
+at the suggestion of his friend, and asserted, in a decided tone, that
+he would infinitely prefer being buried in the country, remote as it was
+from his native land, than suffer Captain Clapperton to pursue his
+journey alone, while he had life to accompany him. The Captain,
+affectionately pressing the hand of the disinterested invalid, thanked
+him for the lively interest he felt in his welfare, but repeated his
+unwillingness for either him or Dr. Morrison to proceed further, in
+their present emaciated and languid state: to this, however, no
+attention was paid.
+
+Things being thus amicably adjusted, to the complete satisfaction at
+least of the invalids, we left Jannah early on the morning of Thursday
+the 22d, (the sick, myself amongst the number, travelling in hammocks,
+as on former occasions,) and slept at Beechy that night. At ten the next
+morning we arrived at Tschow, in which town we received much hospitality
+from the natives; and in the afternoon Dr. Morrison, fancying that the
+sea air would restore his health, which was hourly declining, at his own
+suggestion was sent back to the ship, under the protection of Mr.
+Houtson.
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER IV.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+Deaths of Dawson, Captain Pearce, and Dr. Morrison — Their funeral — The
+survivors, after meeting with various occurrences, and experiencing the
+kindest hospitality from the natives on their route, arrive at Katunga,
+the capital of Yariba, on the 15th of January, 1826.
+
+
+On Saturday, the roads being rendered almost impassable, in consequence
+of the rains that had fallen the preceding night, it was not without
+experiencing considerable difficulty that we could pursue our journey.
+The mud and water reached, in some places, almost to the horses’
+shoulders; and Dawson, who was ill with ague, was unable to retain his
+seat on the animal’s back, and fell three or four times in the mire,
+till he became so much exhausted by struggling to regain his seat, that,
+in despair, he at last flung his arms only across the horse’s back; and
+panting with his exertions, was in this manner dragged to a considerable
+distance. At eleven o’clock we arrived at the village of Egbo; and after
+partaking of a slight refreshment, each of us being indisposed in a
+greater or less degree, we stretched ourselves at full length on our
+mats, in the hope of obtaining a little sleep. Dawson, however, was
+taken dreadfully ill, and his moanings of distress prevented me from
+closing my eyes. He pronounced the names of his wife and children, whom
+he had left in England, with a bitter emphasis, and reproached himself
+repeatedly with having deserted them, to perish miserably in a strange
+country. In this manner he complained till the afternoon, refusing all
+consolation, when he became a little more composed; and Captain Pearce
+fell asleep. My master had quitted the apartment just before; and the
+medicine-chest lying open by Dawson’s side, he perceived it, and
+pointing to a phial, desired a black attendant to fill him a glass of
+its contents; which being promptly done, he eagerly swallowed it. Whilst
+this was going on I had fallen into a slumber; and on awaking, about a
+quarter of an hour afterwards, not hearing Dawson’s groans, I asked how
+he did; but receiving no answer, I went to his bed-side, and found him a
+cold and stiffened corpse! The sight of so unexpected and ghastly a
+spectacle caused me to shudder, and I involuntarily made an exclamation
+of surprise and terror, that awoke Captain Pearce, who asked what was
+the matter. Before I had time to reply, he had raised himself on his
+couch, and the truth instantly bursting upon him—“What!” said he, “is
+Dawson dead? Well, poor fellow, _his_ sufferings are over; _I_ cannot
+long survive him;” and with a deep sigh he sunk back exhausted on his
+mat, without making any further remark.
+
+On examining the bottle from which the unfortunate man had desired the
+liquor to be taken, I found it to be partly filled with _ether_, which
+he must have mistaken for something else, and which had caused his
+almost immediate dissolution. As soon as the natives were made
+acquainted with the circumstance, they set up their death-yell; and if
+all the fiends of darkness had joined in chorus, they could not have
+produced an effect more frightfully and fearfully appalling than was the
+sound produced in that instance. Captain Clapperton hastened to silence
+them, which, after some difficulty, he succeeded in doing; but the
+awfully terrific noise the people made, seemed to be ringing in our ears
+the whole of the night. As dead bodies cannot be left exposed a great
+while in tropical countries, Dawson was buried on the evening of his
+death, followed to the grave by the whole of our black attendants and
+myself. Captain Clapperton read the funeral service over his remains,
+which were then deposited in the earth, and we returned to Captain
+Pearce, whom we had left alone in the hut. Our party was now reduced to
+three whites, one of whom was dangerously ill; my master himself was in
+a much worse state of health than he would either acknowledge or
+believe; and I was but just recovering from a disease that had nearly
+proved fatal to me. A gloom was therefore cast upon the countenances of
+our little band, as we prepared to proceed, on the morning of Sunday;
+but Captain Pearce rallying a little, we set off in more cheerful
+spirits.
+
+The appearance of the country, from Jannah to Tshow, is greatly superior
+to that from the coast to the former place, being clearer of wood, and
+in a higher state of cultivation, swelling likewise into easy and
+delightful undulations. Streams of water fertilize the vallies; and the
+hills, covered with a lively verdure, are adorned with lofty and
+handsome trees. The towns of the natives, from Badagry to Tshow, with a
+few exceptions only, like those in the island of Madagascar, are
+situated in the bosom of thick woods, and are entered by paths so
+intricate, that, like the labyrinth of Woodstock, they are known to none
+but the inhabitants themselves. Sometimes, however, they have only one
+path, which is generally defended by strong stockades or a mud wall, and
+sometimes by both together.
+
+On Tuesday morning we continued our journey, with a cool strengthening
+breeze and a serene atmosphere, which seemed to invigorate each of us
+with renewed life and spirit; and, after two hours’ travelling, we
+arrived at Engwâ. In the course of the journey, for the first time since
+leaving the ship, we perceived great numbers of trees, stripped of their
+foliage, and the grass beaten to the ground, so that, with the exception
+of the absence of frost and snow, the country looked like many parts of
+England in the month of November or December. Several of the natives in
+this, as in almost every other instance, either accompanied or followed
+us on the way, and we experienced as much civility from them as our
+countrymen would have bestowed upon us in our native land. They were,
+generally speaking, neatly dressed in cap, shirt (tobe), and trousers,
+and very cleanly in their personal appearance.
+
+About eleven o’clock Captain Pearce became suddenly worse, and an hour
+or two afterwards was delirious. He talked much and incoherently, in
+detached sentences; at one time apparently conversing with his mother in
+the most affectionate terms, asking her questions, and answering them
+himself, and the next moment reverting to his own melancholy condition,
+and muttering something which no one could understand. In this pitiable
+state he remained till nine o’clock in the evening, when he fell into a
+stupor, from which he awoke about half an hour afterwards, and
+attempting to raise himself on his couch, with a faint groan, and a
+convulsive throe, he fell back and instantly expired.
+
+Both Captain Clapperton and myself were deeply affected as we enveloped
+the lifeless body in its shroud; and a host of gloomy reflections
+crowded upon our minds, to see the once spirited and cheerful companion
+of our wanderings stretched out before us, the shadow only of a man,
+clothed in the mournful habiliments of death. Next morning, about eleven
+o’clock, the body was borne to the place of its interment, followed by
+my master and myself, with the messengers of the kings of Badagry and
+Katunga, and a great number of natives, who all behaved with the
+strictest decorum. As in the former instance, Captain Clapperton,
+although extremely unwell, in a tremulous voice and agitated manner,
+read the funeral service, interrupted only by his own emotion, which he
+found it impossible to conceal. The corpse having been consigned to the
+grave, it was soon closed over him for ever, and my master and myself,
+with heavy hearts and melancholy anticipations, returned to our
+cheerless habitation. The following inscription, at the desire of
+Captain Clapperton, I carved on a board, which was placed at the head of
+the pit, over which a shed was built by the natives; and a strong bamboo
+fence surrounded the whole:—
+
+“Here lie the remains of Robert Pearce, Captain in the Royal Navy of
+England, who died 27th Dec. 1825, aged 28, much regretted by those that
+survive of the mission.
+
+                                                       “H. CLAPPERTON.
+
+                                                       “R. LANDER.”
+
+Captain Pearce had rendered himself a general favourite by his gentle
+and pleasing manners, and excellent natural disposition. My master was
+particularly attached to him, and esteemed him highly, while the natives
+almost adored him. His companionable qualities were great, and he
+displayed them to advantage in our toilsome journeyings, raising the
+spirits of the party by his wit and cheerfulness, and infusing his own
+good temper into the breasts of every one. He was besides an excellent
+limner and draughtsman, and possessed an aptitude for picking up the
+various languages of the natives, which bade fair to render him of the
+most essential service to the mission. No one deplored his loss, or felt
+the want of his pleasant society, more than myself. Just after he was
+taken ill, at his own request, as soon as the day’s toil was over, I was
+constantly with him, and at night my mat was placed close to his. We
+used to chat for whole hours together, on different circumstances of our
+lives; and my little history afforded him a fund of amusement. Any
+thing, indeed, that promised to divert our thoughts from the calamities
+which threatened us, was resorted to, and every trifling incident we had
+each met with from our childhood repeated a thousand times over, in
+order to dole away the long, still, dismal hours of night, when sickness
+prevented either of us from closing our eyes. Throughout Captain
+Pearce’s illness, his patience, resignation, and manly fortitude never
+forsook him; he was conscious that he should ultimately sink under the
+influence of a disorder that was visibly wasting him, and daily reducing
+his strength: nevertheless, this belief neither shook his firmness nor
+damped his spirits, and he always spoke of his anticipated dissolution
+with a serious calmness of manner that surprised and pleased me. None of
+us thought that his end was so near; we expected he would have struggled
+on at least a week or two longer; but the sorrowful event disappointed
+the hopes we had cherished, and he expired prematurely, to the infinite
+regret of every one.
+
+Mr. Houtson returned on Saturday the 31st, with the afflictive
+intelligence of the decease of Dr. Morrison, which mournful circumstance
+occurred at Jannah, by a coincidence, singular in misfortune, on the
+same day, and as nearly as possible at the same hour as that in which
+Captain Pearce had breathed his last. He was decently interred by Mr.
+Houtson on the 28th, near to the house in which they had resided; and
+the ceremonies of the Church of England were performed over his remains
+by the same gentleman.
+
+We saw several busts of men, as well as figures of tigers, crocodiles,
+serpents, &c. carved on blocks of wood, and extremely well executed, at
+Engwâ. The natives of that part of Africa appear to have a genius for
+the art of sculpture, which is in great repute with them; and some of
+their productions rival, in point of delicacy, any of a similar kind
+that I have seen in Europe.
+
+A fine Portuguese brig, and a Spanish schooner, had been lying near
+Badagry, on our leaving that place, waiting for slaves; to supply which
+vessels, the King of Jannah had sent a slaving party to the territories
+of the Essàs, a powerful tribe in the neighbourhood of Engwâ, which had
+captured numbers of the people. The Chief of the Essàs was greatly
+exasperated at this conduct of his neighbour, and had made numerous
+reprisals; so that, at the period of our passing through the country, a
+general war was the consequence.
+
+Owing to this circumstance, on leaving the town of Engwâ on the morning
+of the 3d of January, 1826, we were accompanied by upwards of a hundred
+men and women, who placed themselves under our protection, fancying
+that, when within sight of the white strangers, no evil could befall
+them. We crossed a river called Akkeni at ten o’clock A.M., which was
+full of sunken rocks, and arrived at the village of Afoora about three
+hours after. Our journey on that day was rendered particularly pleasant
+by the fragrant odour exhaled from the cotton plant, then in full
+blossom—the wild, solitary whistle of the grey parrot, and the
+delightful melody of hundreds of small birds, swelling from the branches
+of the tall trees. The country every where improved as we
+advanced:—fields of Indian corn, and plantations of cotton, were
+numerous, while groves of palm, and clumps of cocoa and female cocoa
+trees, scattered on all sides, rendered the prospect from the hills
+inexpressibly beautiful. Quitting Afoora early on Wednesday, we reached
+Assula the same morning, in which town we were more conveniently lodged
+than we had been since leaving the coast.
+
+Starting about seven o’clock the next day, and travelling over several
+low hills, and through pleasant vallies, we entered Assoudo, (the first
+walled town we had yet seen,) at noon. In the paths we observed numbers
+of fine birds, with silky and brilliant plumage, but I could not be
+informed to what particular species they belonged, neither of us having
+seen any of a similar kind before. Assoudo contains upwards of ten
+thousand inhabitants, who were all as curious as their countrymen, and
+also as noisy, but infinitely more modest and respectful, and
+consequently more pleasing in their manners. We received an abundant
+supply of provisions from the chief, consisting of a goat, fowls, eggs,
+yams, bananas, &c.
+
+On Friday, after halting at Tedi, a small village romantically situated
+on a beautifully wooded slope, where we changed carriers, we arrived at
+the town of Choko; but its chief, with nearly the whole of the male
+inhabitants, being engaged in hunting the buffalo, did not return till
+evening. In the mean time we had spent an hour or two under a tree, but
+finding no one disposed to invite us to a house, of our own accord we
+took peaceable possession of the best hut the place afforded, of the
+goodness of which, however, we could not boast, it being sadly out of
+repair.
+
+Our road from Choko, on Saturday, lay round the sides of low mountains,
+on the summits and in the hollows of which were several hamlets,
+inhabited by an industrious race, who had extensive plantations in the
+valleys below, where the palm tree flourishes in great beauty. We slept
+at Yundekka that night, and on the next day arrived at Duffo. There the
+inhabitants visited us by thousands, and when desired to go away, they
+replied that if we did not allow them to visit our house, we must come
+out, and show ourselves to them in the street, for that they were
+determined, let the consequence be what it might, to see a white man
+before they died. The town contains ten or twelve thousand inhabitants,
+nearly half of whom, on our departure the next morning, followed us at
+some distance, in order to catch a last glimpse of their white
+visitants.
+
+We passed through three villages, on the route to Chiadoo, to which we
+were advancing, viz. Jesin, Weza, and Lukewâ, the chief of each of
+which, with the people, detained us an hour or more underneath the
+branches of trees, gazing on us with a mingled sensation of compassion
+and wonder, till, their curiosity being fully satisfied, we were
+suffered to proceed. At the latter of these villages elephants’ teeth
+were offered us for sale; but on our refusing to purchase them, on the
+ground that we were not come for the purpose of trading, the greatest
+amazement was depicted on the countenances of the people, and they
+wondered amongst each other what motive besides could possibly attract
+us to their country.
+
+We entered Chiadoo about six o’clock in the evening, and received the
+accustomed present of provisions, &c. with the addition of a turkey. The
+town, seated on a gentle declivity, is densely inhabited, and defended
+by a thick mud wall and deep trench, which wholly surround it. Within
+the wall, and almost close to it, trees of large dimensions are planted,
+so as to form a belt from two to three miles in circumference, which in
+case of necessity might easily be converted into an excellent means of
+defence for the inhabitants.
+
+The scenery on the road from Afoora to Chiadoo is extremely picturesque,
+but the path itself is in many places rugged and dangerous to
+travellers. Winding by the sides of the _Kong_ mountains, over rocks and
+precipices, or through romantic glens at their base, intersected with
+innumerable streams, the track was generally covered with small loose
+stones, which galled the feet of the hammock-men in a pitiable manner.
+On all sides immense masses of granite, jutting abruptly from the hills
+or vallies, reared their heads to the height, in some places, of several
+hundred feet; whilst others, fearfully overhanging the narrow foot-way,
+caused a shuddering awe to creep over us as we passed underneath them,
+which could not be suppressed. With some danger, and more difficulty,
+the men who bore my hammock clambered with me to the summit of one of
+the mounts, from whence the prospect on the one hand was immeasurably
+grand and imposing, and on the other enchantingly beautiful. At our feet
+were lovely dales, cultivated in the highest degree, and planted with
+cotton, yams, the plantain, &c. fertilized by meandering rivulets,
+sparkling in the sun-beams; whilst before and behind us were naked
+rocks, precipitously steep and rugged, many standing singly, and others
+piled loosely upon each other, apparently ready to tumble to the earth
+below. The vallies, as well as the slopes and summits of the hills,
+being studded with the cleanly habitations of the natives, all bore an
+air of novelty, cheerfulness, beauty, and grandeur, that I have never
+seen surpassed.
+
+Our carriers having made themselves merry at the village of Weza, with
+an intoxicating beverage called _otée_ (a kind of ale made from millet),
+were rather frolicsome during the remainder of the journey; and on
+descending an almost perpendicular precipice, I was in momentary
+expectation of being tossed head-long from their shoulders, my continued
+weakness rendering me unfit to walk; but happily my fears were not
+realized, and after numberless hair-breadth escapes, I was conveyed in
+safety to Chiadoo. The chief of that town, whose kindness to us was
+displayed in a striking manner, entreated us to remain with him a few
+days, and Mr. Houtson being indisposed, and Captain Clapperton still
+more so, the latter thought it advisable to stay a couple of days at
+least in the place, in order to try whether ease and quiet would produce
+a beneficial effect on the health of either of them. On the morning of
+Thursday, the 12th, we left Chiadoo, followed by the chief and an
+immense crowd of people of both sexes, amongst whom were hundreds of
+children, the ladies enlivening us with songs at intervals, and the men
+blowing on horns and beating on gongs and drums, without any regard to
+time, forming altogether a most barbarous concert of vocal and
+instrumental music, which continued to our great inconvenience and
+annoyance till we arrived at Matoné, when they took leave of us and
+returned. The carriers refreshed themselves with two huge calabashes of
+_otée_ whilst we remained in the town, after which they started with
+redoubled vigour, and about one o’clock halted at Arrowâ, where we
+slept.
+
+After some little difficulty, occasioned by the unwillingness of the
+chief and inhabitants to part with us so soon, we pursued our journey at
+half-past nine next morning, and resting awhile at Washoo, entered Chaki
+in the afternoon. The appearance of the country traversed differed but
+little from that which has already been described as seen on the road to
+Chiadoo, with the exception of its being, if possible, yet more varied,
+and wearing an aspect of still deeper and sterner beauty; hill rising
+above hill, and rock above rock, in proud magnificence. In some places
+huge blocks of naked granite seemed split as if by the hands of giants,
+leaving frightful chasms, the bottoms of which could not be distinctly
+seen; and in others detached fragments, irregularly scattered over the
+country, looking wildly and negligently grand, inspired the strongest
+belief that they had been forcibly rent asunder, at a remote era, by
+some dreadful convulsion of nature.
+
+The air on the mountains is cooler, clearer, and more salubrious than in
+the plains below, and the inhabitants seemed to enjoy better health, and
+as we were informed lived to a more advanced age than their countrymen
+of the vallies. We were every where received on the road with
+acclamations and songs of welcome; and as soon as our little party was
+discerned, all labour immediately ceased. The people assembling in
+groups of from three or four to fifty, approached as near as the rocks
+would permit them; and doffing their caps, they greeted us as we passed,
+wishing us a pleasant journey to their sovereign at Katunga.
+
+On the top of the highest hill of the whole ridge is perched the
+populous town of Cheki, at an immense elevation from the plains, the
+approach to which is by a winding path, more steep and rugged than any
+we had before met with, and up which we were obliged positively to climb
+on our hands and knees. The chief, who may be styled a petty king,
+having a considerable number of towns, and many thousands of people
+under his protection and command,—was seated outside of his house, under
+its verandah, surrounded by about a hundred of his wives, and musicians
+with drums and fifes. On our approach the latter struck up a native air,
+the ladies keeping time with their feet, and accompanying the
+instruments with their voices, which were so loud and shrill that the
+sound rent the air. To this _voluptuous_ music we were obliged to listen
+for the space of an hour, when it ceased, and we took the opportunity of
+paying our respects to the chief, and being completely tired, were
+conducted to a large hut which had been prepared for our reception. No
+sooner had we been fairly housed, however, than we were visited, first
+by several of the inhabitants, whose curiosity was irksome and painful
+to us, and next by the chief in person, who drank tea, and remained with
+us till a very late hour, asking us innumerable questions about England,
+and listening with the most mortifying attention, and intolerable
+patience, to all we chose to tell him. His countenance was open and
+pleasing, and in many of his observations he displayed a degree of
+acuteness and penetration that startled us. We were treated by this
+chief with a kindness, remarkable even amongst his countrymen, and,
+under his hospitable roof, we almost forgot all our misfortunes.
+
+Arising early on Saturday, the 14th, though pressed to remain by every
+inducement that could be thought of, we departed from Chaki at eight
+o’clock, attended by the mountain-chief, with upwards of two hundred of
+his wives, and a long train of people. Passing for the first time
+through several Falatah villages, whose inhabitants were chiefly
+employed in the occupations of pasturage and agriculture, Mr. Houtson
+and myself entered the walled town of Koofo at one, and about an hour
+after Captain Clapperton was brought into the town on a hammock, being
+still severely indisposed. Several extensive cotton plantations lay near
+the road, and the soil, generally speaking, was clear of wood, and
+tolerably well cultivated. The town of Koofo has a double wall, and is
+the largest we had noticed, containing, in all probability, fully twenty
+thousand inhabitants. We were saluted with the usual demonstrations of
+African welcome on entering the gates; and in the afternoon of our
+arrival, and the next day, the spacious court or yard with which we were
+accommodated was literally crammed with people of both sexes, and of all
+ages; and their impertinent curiosity it was utterly impossible to
+satisfy. As soon as one party had stayed as long as they thought proper,
+another supplied its place, in such rapid succession, that, till the
+evening of each day had been pretty far advanced, we had not a moment to
+call our own.
+
+The further we penetrated into the country, the more dense we found the
+population to be, and civilization became at every step more strikingly
+apparent. Large towns at the distance of only a few miles from each
+other, we were informed lay on all sides of us, the inhabitants of which
+pay the greatest respect to the laws, and live under a regular form of
+government.
+
+Captain Clapperton, finding himself stronger and better, ventured to
+leave Koofo on horseback, on Monday at eight o’clock A.M., and after two
+hours’ travelling through a well cultivated and delightful country,
+studded with pleasant Falatah hamlets, we arrived at Soccasoo. In this
+town, our messenger having gormandized on a leg of pork, was taken so
+sick that he either could not or would not proceed, and as we durst not
+go on without him, we were obliged to abide in the place till the
+following day.
+
+The opinion that the white men were come as “messengers of peace” was
+general in the country, and implicitly believed by all ranks. Two years
+previously to our landing from the Brazen, the Houssa slaves belonging
+to the Sultan of Yariba had rebelled against their sovereign, and,
+fleeing into the woods, had built themselves a considerable town, no
+more than two days’ journey from the capital (Katunga), which they
+called Lori. In it they strongly entrenched themselves, and, by the
+addition of numbers of their straggling countrymen, who willingly
+flocked to their standard, had become so formidable in a short time,
+that they had successfully resisted all the attempts of his Yaribean
+Majesty to re-enslave them, and maintained their independence against
+the force of an empire. About the time of our journeying into the
+interior, it was reported that the insurgents had recently been
+reinforced by a large body of Falatah horsemen, which proved in fact to
+be the case, and the news had struck so great a panic into the minds of
+the people of Yariba, that those residing in the vicinity of the
+mutinous slaves had emigrated to more remote provinces. Hence the
+anxious solicitation of every one, that as “messengers of peace,” we
+should compromise matters between their monarch and his refractory
+vassals, which course could alone inspire the people with the hope of
+preserving their lives and property. The Houssas had already begun to
+act on the offensive, and had made frequent incursions, even to the
+dwellings of their former masters, sacking and setting fire to their
+towns, and laying their country waste.
+
+On Tuesday the 17th we left Soccasoo, and changing horses at the town of
+Ladooli, halted at Hadjidibbah, where, both my master and Mr. Houtson
+becoming sick and ill, we rested for three hours. We then again set
+forward, the path lying through a forest of stunted trees; and reaching
+Akkibosa in the afternoon, slept there that night. In the course of the
+morning we had passed several villages, two or three of which were in
+ruins, having been partly burnt by the Houssas, and deserted by their
+original inhabitants.
+
+The atmosphere was close and sultry on our setting out on the morning of
+Wednesday, and continued so during the journey. About two hours’
+travelling brought us to the walled town of Adja, the entrance to which
+is through a spacious avenue of noble trees. Here we were obliged to
+stop for the remainder of the day, because the inhabitants were at work
+in the plantations. At an early hour on Thursday, the chief, who had
+been informed the previous evening of the complaint under which Captain
+Clapperton laboured, came with a dose of medicine for him to take; but
+after swallowing it my master became so dreadfully ill, that Mr.
+Houtson, as well as myself, suspected that poison had been administered
+to him. In this conjecture, however, we were happily deceived; for in
+about two hours the pain, which had been occasioned by the potion
+together with his former ailment, suddenly left him in an extraordinary
+manner, after which, he expressed himself in perfect health, and ready
+to proceed. We arrived at Layboo at one o’clock the same day, having
+seen on the road five towns, two or three of which were walled, and of
+no inconsiderable extent.
+
+At six next morning we were again in motion, and halting at the village
+of Bougboug at seven, and at Leogalla, a Falatah town, at eight o’clock,
+arrived at Ateepa at twelve at noon. The country traversed was agreeably
+diversified by hills of gentle and gradual ascent, and fertile vallies,
+cultivated with yams, corn, bananas, &c. Ateepa, like most towns of any
+magnitude in the country, is furnished with a strong wall, made of
+earth, and a belt of trees within it, which, by reason of a thorny
+creeping shrub clinging round the trunks, like the ivy to the oak, and
+throwing out vigorous shoots, had become so thickly entangled as to form
+a secure barrier, which, except by the narrow gateway at the entrance,
+was impervious to man and beast.
+
+On Saturday we departed from Ateepa, attended by the chief and a long
+train of the male inhabitants, to defend us from any attack that the
+Borghoo robbers might feel disposed to make on so insignificant a party
+as ourselves. At Nannah, a considerable walled town, we changed
+carriers; and its chief, copying the example of him of Ateepa, joined
+our procession also, with a strong party, having the same benevolent
+object in view, and escorted us to Leobadda, where each of the chiefs
+drank a glass of grog, and returned with their attendants to their
+respective towns. Leobadda stands close to some huge masses of pale
+granite rocks, broken into irregular fragments, and has a wall of
+prodigious thickness. Its population is from six to seven thousand
+souls, who all seemed to be contentedly poor, invariably happy. The same
+generous hospitality which had so eminently characterised their
+countrymen, was displayed by the inhabitants of Leobadda, even in the
+midst of poverty and rags, with an alacrity and cheerfulness that
+redound greatly to their credit, and speak volumes in their praise.
+
+At seven o’clock on Sunday, the chief, with many of his people,
+assembled in front of our house, and accompanied us for some miles. On
+the road we met several hundreds of men, women, and children, with heavy
+loads on their beads, who had been travelling the whole of the preceding
+night, and who appeared so greatly fatigued, as scarcely to be able to
+drag their lazy limbs after them. They were carefully watched by
+overseers (one of whom was appointed to each fifty), who were all armed,
+either with short swords, or bows and arrows, and made the weary
+travellers quicken their pace by threats of punishment whenever they
+observed them loitering on the way. We passed in the course of the
+journey, several villages which had been burnt and destroyed by
+Falatahs; the walls were overgrown with weeds, and the trees, which a
+short time before had afforded a grateful and refreshing shade to the
+inhabitants, seared by the conflagration, and standing blighted and
+withering, as solitary memorials of the awful manner in which those once
+flourishing towns had been converted into waste and desolate places. At
+noon we descended into a delightful valley, situated in the bosom of a
+ridge of rocks, which effectually hid it from observation till one
+approached almost close to it. It was intersected with whimpering
+streams and purling rills, the elegant palm, and the broad leaved
+banana, covered with foliage, embellishing the sheltered and beautifully
+romantic spot. In the centre was a sheet of water, resembling an
+artificial pond, in which were numbers of young maidens from the
+neighbouring town of Tschow, some of them reposing at full length on its
+verdant banks, and some frisking and basking in the sun-beams, whilst
+others of their companions were sporting with the Naiads of the sacred
+stream; but all of them visibly delighted with the pleasant recreations
+which they were enjoying so prettily and innocently. We stood for a
+season gazing on them with pleasure; but no sooner were our white faces
+observed by the young ladies, than their amusements instantly ceased,
+and the sable beauties simultaneously rushing from the water, snatched
+up their apparel, and with their uncovered associates, concealing their
+faces with their hands, ran away and hid themselves behind the trunks of
+trees, looking as coy and bashful as did their mother Eve in the garden
+of Eden.
+
+Leaving that lovely glen with regret, we arrived at Tschow, a walled
+town, with a good population, at two o’clock. As soon as we could be
+accommodated with a house, we began cleaning our guns and pistols, as
+the roads to Katunga were, we had been repeatedly informed, infested
+with numerous bands of desperadoes, whose success and boldness had
+terrified, to an alarming degree, the peaceable and timid inhabitants.
+
+On the evening of our arrival, the expected escort from the Sultan of
+Yariba entered the town. It consisted of two hundred horsemen, and
+double that number on foot, commanded by a war-chief, and armed with
+spears, and bows and arrows; all most grotesquely attired, some
+flouncing in handsome robes, and some fluttering in rags. From the
+moment of their arrival to the period of our departure, we had not a
+moment’s quiet. They paraded the town all night, vociferously bellowing
+the happiness they felt, or pretended to feel, on meeting with the white
+men—serenaded us with a concert of drums, flutes, and trumpets, with
+powerful vocal accompaniments, and kept shouting and hallooing till we
+arose in the morning.
+
+All was hurry and confusion as we prepared to depart, and our escort
+soon getting themselves in readiness, we bade adieu to the chief of
+Tschow, and started from the town about six o’clock, accompanied by a
+great number of merchants and others, who cheerfully embraced the
+opportunity of putting themselves under our protection. Nothing could be
+more animated than the appearance of our boisterous conductors, winding
+their way up a narrow and crooked path; the horsemen with their long
+spears, clearing the road, and hurrying onwards as fast as their jaded
+and diminutive beasts could walk with them; and the bowmen on foot, with
+their instruments slung across their shoulders, and quiver full of
+arrows, appended to their sides, plodding after them with all imaginable
+haste. But by far the most amusing, if not the most important part of
+that strange and singular cavalcade, were the musicians themselves, who
+found it no easy matter to keep pace with their more lively countrymen,
+and perform on their instruments at the same time. The drummers,
+flourishing their sticks with a scornful, consequential air; the
+trumpeters with their black bloated cheeks shining with fat; and the
+fifers turning up the whites of their eyes towards heaven, and producing
+altogether the most discordant, most terrific sounds that can be
+conceived, were highly ludicrous; nor could we, in spite of ourselves,
+maintain a becoming gravity, or help being infinitely diverted every
+time that we ventured to look back, and steal a glance at our never-
+enough-to-be-admired lovers of harmony!
+
+We halted near a village called Achoran at nine o’clock, but the baggage
+being at some distance behind, we left it to the care of the chiefs, and
+proceeded with a hundred of the escort, (the road in many places rugged
+and overshadowed with the branches of trees,) and crossed a stream
+flowing to the Quorra about an hour after.
+
+At eleven at noon, on attaining the summit of a lofty ridge, we came in
+sight of the city of Katunga, lying to the south of us, at the base of a
+granite mountain, and apparently embosomed in beautiful trees. Between
+the ridge and the city was a fertile valley, highly cultivated, and
+extending to the westward as far as the eye could reach; while the view
+to the eastward was bounded by a gigantic rock, shivered into fragments,
+and at no great distance from the place on which we stood. An hour’s
+easy riding brought us to the north gate of the metropolis of Yariba,
+outside of which were a fetish-hut, and a few private habitations; and
+on entering it we took up our abode for the time, at the residence of
+one of the chiefs of the escort.
+
+As soon as the remainder of the convoy with the baggage had arrived, the
+intelligence was immediately transmitted to Mansolah, the King, from
+whom we presently received a warm invitation. After a ride of full five
+miles through the streets of Katunga, in which we were attended by the
+escort and musicians, who created so thick a cloud of dust that it had
+well nigh suffocated us, we at length reached the king’s palace. His
+majesty was seated under the verandah, with two umbrellas spread over
+him, and surrounded by above four hundred of his wives, with many of his
+caboceers and other great men. Dismounting at the distance of twenty
+yards, we walked up almost close to the umbrellas, when Mansolah arose,
+and very cordially shook hands with each of us, welcoming us to his
+kingdom with a broad grin, lifting up our hands three several times, and
+each time exclaiming “Ako! ako!” which means literally “How do you do?”
+The multitude, the chiefs, and the king’s ladies, seemed equally pleased
+with their good-humoured sovereign at our visit, and displayed the
+warmth of their feelings by acclamations, shaking of hands, and smiles
+and encouraging glances. Before our dismissal his majesty enquired more
+particularly after our respective healths, but made few other
+observations. In the evening he visited us at our house, attended by his
+eunuchs and women, and, simply asking how we did, left us with the hope
+of seeing us again the next day.
+
+
+
+
+                               CHAPTER V.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+Residence at Katanga — Ebo the eunuch — Pantomimic representation by the
+Yaribeans — Departure from the city of Katunga — Arrival at Khiama — Wow
+Wow — Manners of the people — Boussa — Mungo Park.
+
+
+We remained at Katunga exactly seven weeks; the king, on various
+frivolous pretexts, refusing to grant us permission to depart before.
+During all this time each of us enjoyed but indifferent health, Captain
+Clapperton in particular being oftentimes so severely indisposed as to
+be unable either to walk or ride; nevertheless we were treated with the
+utmost civility and kindness by the people generally. The king himself
+visited us almost every day, and never came without an acceptable
+present of provisions; while his caboceers behaved with a still nobler
+generosity, insomuch that if it had not been for the malpractices of a
+sly, lubberly, fat, monstrous eunuch, named Ebo, to whose care was
+entrusted our provisions, and whose ravenous appetite was proverbial in
+the city, we should have been literally crammed with every delicacy both
+of the country and season. That old gormand had a paunch of a most awful
+size, which he contrived to keep in excellent condition by partaking
+largely of the good things intended for our use, which he purloined in a
+daring and impudent manner, and devoured when alone and at leisure. Not
+content with secreting the choicest articles, he made so serious an
+impression even on the bare necessaries of life, that we were not
+unfrequently kept on short allowance.
+
+On one occasion we detected him in the very act of concealing some
+ducks, eggs, and honey, which we knew beforehand had been sent him for
+our consumption; and we taxed him with the robbery to his face. Ebo,
+however, disclaimed the imputation with earnestness, and maintained his
+innocence with considerable volubility. On our entrance he held a bottle
+of rum in one hand, to which he had been evidently paying his devotions,
+whilst the other was occupied in shuffling something under a mat. It was
+no doubt the eunuch’s intention to take another draught of the inspiring
+liquid, whilst thus employed, but, mistaking the hand in which it was
+held, he snatched the other from underneath the mat, and had actually
+the head of our duck in his mouth, instead of the bottle, before the
+error was discovered. This it was which he had taken so much pains to
+hide from our sight, and the ludicrous misconception of the fellow
+caused us infinite diversion. As for the eunuch, he was not the least
+disconcerted; and although we discovered the honey and eggs also
+concealed in another part of his house, he roundly asserted that he had
+purchased them at the market the day before. Complaints were made to the
+king of his conduct, without producing a beneficial effect upon the
+gormandizing Ebo, who continued to feed without mercy on our provisions,
+while his paunch maintained its usual enviable state of rotundity and
+bulk, at the expense of our empty stomachs.
+
+Captain Clapperton diverted the people of Katunga by a display of
+rockets at different times; this was the only means we had of making
+ourselves in the least degree the instruments of pleasure to them in
+return for their good nature; and this they appeared to enjoy with all
+the zest that a novelty generally inspires in the breasts of savages,
+even after it had ceased to be a novelty. At first the spectators were
+terrified with the exhibition, but familiarity with it soon wore off
+that impression, and they never appeared satisfied with gazing at our
+artificial fire-works. The inhabitants, on their part, with their
+sovereign at their head, endeavoured to prolong our stay with them by
+straining every nerve to please, and beguiled the time by all the
+amusements they could think of. Amongst other allurements held out by
+Mansolah towards this end, that of seeing him _as a king_, which would
+shortly be the case, was repeatedly urged with much warmth. “You behold
+me now, only as a poor man,” observed his majesty, “but by and by I
+shall be a king indeed.”
+
+A womanish fondness for dress and admiration, and a childish vanity in
+the most trivial as well as more important concerns, were strikingly
+visible in the character of every prince we met with in Africa; nor did
+the monarch of Yariba think these frivolities beneath him, any more than
+his royal neighbours; but in his case there was mixed up with this
+weakness, a certain consciousness of the absurdity of it, which I never
+observed in the character of any other African whatever. Mansolah only
+conformed to the whims and fancies of his people, he said, when he
+attired himself so fancifully; for that they preferred a ruler with a
+smart and gorgeous exterior, even if he happened to be the most odious
+tyrant on the face of the earth, to a prince meanly dressed, although he
+were endowed with every amiable quality. It was not, therefore, in
+compliance with his own inclination that he had accepted, with so great
+apparent satisfaction, the trinkets we had given him for the adornment
+of his person, but solely to please his subjects, to whose taste he
+always accommodated himself. Against these philosophical expressions of
+the Sultan of Yariba, however, his conduct and actions sadly militated,
+for he smiled with delight on beholding a brass watch-chain he had
+received of us; his eyes sparkled with rapture at the sight of a gold-
+headed cane Captain Clapperton had offered for his acceptance; while a
+necklace of large handsome coral beads positively threw him into a
+transport of joy.
+
+The same eager curiosity that had been displayed on the road from
+Badagry, was evinced by the people of Katunga; but there was no
+boldness, no impudence, no daring effrontery, with the latter; they
+every where made way for us to pass, when either curiosity or the desire
+of exercise induced us to walk through their town, or its environs, and
+retreating to a short distance, made a profound obeisance, and in some
+cases even went so far as to prostrate themselves in the dust before us,
+although these were acts of humiliation we never countenanced nor
+approved of. The more respectable part of the inhabitants, on meeting
+with us in the streets, used to run up to shake hands, with as much
+cordiality as if they had known us from our childhood; and would very
+kindly enquire after our healths, not merely for the sake of having
+something to say, as is the case in England, but prompted by an interest
+and concern they could not disguise. We felt assured that their motive
+for asking sprang from a sincere desire of _knowing_, in order that they
+might sympathise with us if we were ill, or congratulate us if we
+enjoyed tolerable health.
+
+The strong desire Mansolah felt and expressed for us to remain at least
+for a few months with him, made that prince guilty, on more than one
+occasion, of dissimulation, and even falsehood,—which detracts greatly
+from his merit, for in other respects he was a generous, sensible, good
+natured man. He was fruitful in expedients against our setting out, and
+used every means that ingenuity could suggest, to counteract our
+intentions of prosecuting our journey; at one time alleging that the
+Falatahs, (who had joined a party in a civil war that was then raging in
+Nyffé, between two princes, who were disputing the right of succession
+to their deceased father’s throne,) intercepted all communication
+between that country, through which it was our intention to pass, and
+Yariba, or rather Katunga, its capital; and at another time asserting
+that he had sent messengers to Yarro, one of his own provinces, to
+ascertain whether the road was clear in that direction; for he was
+determined, he said, not to be instrumental towards our falling into the
+hands of the Falatahs. His assertion, with regard to the war in Nyffé,
+proved indeed to be correct; but for some indefinable reason, besides
+those adduced, he was excessively jealous of our having the least
+intercourse with the Falatahs, his most inveterate enemies, who, as he
+repeatedly and feelingly expressed himself, “had torn down his father’s
+house.”
+
+Amongst the amusements of the inhabitants of Katunga, dancing and
+tumbling hold a prominent rank. With respect to the latter diversion,
+they cannot be excelled by any people in the world; their evolutions in
+the air are perfectly astonishing, and by the suppleness and pliability
+of their limbs, by their bending, and turning, and twisting themselves
+into all manner of shapes, one would be almost inclined to believe that
+they have not a single bone in their bodies.
+
+During our stay at Katunga we were witnesses to a kind of pantomime,
+which amusement the inhabitants generally prefer, in honor of the
+caboceers, whenever they pay a visit to the king, as was the case in
+that instance. The place chosen for the exhibition was a large
+enclosure, contiguous to the king’s residence, covered with verdure, and
+as level as a bowling-green. It was rendered particularly pleasant by
+the refreshing shade afforded by clumps of tall trees, which studded the
+spot in all directions. Two huge shapeless rocks of crumbling granite
+marked the limits of the play-ground to the south; the king’s house
+those to the north; and a range of trees intercepted the view to the
+east and west. A lofty fan-palm-tree grew in the centre of the place,
+under the branches of which the actors were accommodated; and a
+temporary fence, erected round its trunk, screened them from
+observation, whenever they chose to remain concealed.
+
+A most astounding din from drums, horns, and whistles, was the signal
+for the performers to begin their manœuvres. The first act consisted of
+dancing, capering, and tumbling by about twenty men, enveloped in sacks,
+which novel and elegant divertisement was continued with admirable
+spirit for a full half hour, when the contents of the sacks becoming
+fatigued, bundled themselves back to the palm-tree.
+
+The second act commenced almost immediately after, with attempting to
+catch the _boa constrictor_. To effect this object, one of the dancing
+sacks came out of the place of its concealment, and fell gently and most
+conveniently to the ground, when a monstrous mishapen figure, with a
+head-dress resembling in size and shape a common English wash-tray, from
+which streamed a variety of strips of scarlet damask and country cloth,
+slowly approached the recumbent sack from behind the fence. The figure
+was of most gigantic stature, and changed its appearance as often as the
+enchanted Turk in our puppet-shows. It held in its hand a sword, and by
+its motions, as well as the commanding attitude it assumed over the
+other actors, appeared to be the director of the pageant. Another fellow
+in a sack was then brought out, and being placed bolt upright by the
+side of the figure, by the application of a slight blow, fell near to
+its peaceable companion, and by a little shifting contrived to get its
+head close to that of the other. The mouths of the two sacks having been
+previously unsewn, the contents of the one crawled into the other, and
+after these formalities the representation of the boa presently began.
+The reptile at first thrust its head out of the bag and attempted to lay
+hold of the tremendous figure, who contrived, dexterously enough, to
+make it draw itself into the sack again by a flourish of his weapon,
+which the knowing animal appeared to understand perfectly well. The head
+of the boa was then jutted out in a different direction, and by degrees
+the whole body protruded itself from the place of its confinement into
+open day light, and remained exposed for a few seconds to the gaze of
+the multitude. It appeared to be about fourteen feet in length, and by
+reason of the painted cloth with which it was covered, might easily be
+mistaken for the animal it was intended to represent. The angry monster,
+after a short pause, pursued the fantastical figure with the sword,
+rather slowly, to be sure, but withal very naturally—going through the
+motions of a snake by coiling itself round like a rope, opening and
+shutting its jaws, and darting out its forked tongue; all of which
+elicited the rapturous applauses of the bystanders. But the pursued,
+although it never was at a greater distance from the reptile than a few
+feet, never had the courage to come in contact with its fangs. At
+length, at a given signal by the manager, the whole troop of actors
+rushed to the spot; they were then sackless, but their features were
+effectually concealed by masks reaching to the bosom. The figure then
+began to act on the offensive, by chopping the irritated monster’s tail
+with his weapon in a shocking and most unmerciful manner. The snake
+apparently writhed in agony, and convulsively twisting its body for a
+few moments, whilst it endeavoured, without effect, to be revenged on
+its formidable adversary by extending its neck to bite; when life
+seeming to be nearly extinguished, it was borne off on the shoulders of
+the actors to the fetish-house.
+
+The third and last part of this extraordinary ceremony, consisted in the
+representation of the caricature of a white man. One of the sack-
+dancers, placed by himself on a clear spot of ground, near to the palm-
+tree, gradually detached his covering, and exposed the figure of a man,
+of a chalky whiteness, to the fixed looks of the people, who set up so
+terrific a shout of approbation that it startled us, prepared as we had
+been to expect some such explosion. The figure walked but indifferently
+well, and mimicked our actions as badly; the composition with which it
+was bedaubed, evidently preventing the actor from using his limbs
+freely, or performing his part with the facility he could have wished;
+although his embarrassment was apparent to us, yet the populace did not
+seem to take the least notice of this defect, and an universal roar of
+laughter expressed the delight which filled every bosom. The pantomimic
+incident had now attained its utmost bounds, and all eyes, swimming in
+tears, were directed first to us, and then to the intended
+representation of us, as much as to say, “what a faithful and striking
+resemblance!” We entered most cordially into the good humour of the
+moment, not so much on account of the clumsy and unsightly figure before
+us, as to see a vast circle of white teeth grinning at the same moment,
+and producing an irresistibly ludicrous effect. After exhibiting himself
+in this manner about an hour, the white man was enveloped in his sack,
+and borne, like the serpent, to the fetish-house, when the amusements
+ended, and the people quietly dispersed. Between the acts we were
+entertained with a concert of drums and whistles, as well as country
+songs from the females who were present, in the choruses of which the
+people generally joined.
+
+The Yarro messengers, of whom Mansolah had spoken, having returned, and
+given a favorable report of the state of the roads, on Monday the 6th of
+March, we bade adieu to Katunga, its ruler, and inhabitants, and pursued
+our journey, attended by the same escort that had conducted us into the
+city. Mr. Houtson was left behind, and returned to the coast, where he
+was almost immediately seized with fever, and expired after an illness
+of only a few days. Our party was therefore reduced to two Europeans
+only, my master and myself.
+
+We passed through several villages which had been pillaged and burnt by
+the Falatahs, on the following and three successive days; and on the
+11th we arrived at a mean dirty-looking village, remarkable only as
+being the first in the Borghoo country.
+
+The huts of the inhabitants are constructed in a circular form, after
+the Bornou fashion, and their tops ornamented with crocodiles’ eggs,
+considered as an effectual protection against the ravages of those
+animals, which are much dreaded by all classes, but with what justice I
+know not. We left the village at four o’clock in the afternoon; and the
+horse on which I rode being in better condition than the others, I was
+considerably in advance of the rest of the party, when the animal made a
+sudden halt, and all my endeavours were inadequate to make him proceed.
+There he stood like a block of marble, keeping his eyes rivetted on
+something that was approaching us, and I had scarcely time to consider
+what it could possibly be, when a fine antelope bounded before me with
+incredible swiftness, and in the next moment two huge lions, with mane
+and tail erect, crossed the path but a couple of yards from the horse’s
+head, almost with equal speed, and covered with foam. A tremendous roar,
+which made the forest tremble, informed me in another minute that the
+lions had overtaken their prey; but the sudden and unexpected appearance
+of those ferocious animals startled me as much as it had intimidated the
+horse before, and I hastened back to the party, my poor beast trembling
+violently the whole of the way. Fortunately the lions, which were male
+and female, were so eager in the chase, that both the horse and its
+rider were unobserved by them; otherwise it might have gone hard with
+me, for I saw not the slightest chance of escaping. We halted in the
+woods that night; but fancying every sound I heard was the roaring of a
+lion, I could not compose myself to sleep. Next day I was severely
+indisposed, and the party was obliged to stop several times on the road
+on my account; a languid faintness frequently overpowering me, and
+rendering me insensible to surrounding objects. We put up at a town
+called Socka for the night, and on the 13th an escort from the king of
+Khiama arrived, mounted on excellent horses, little inferior to the
+English breed; but after delivering their monarch’s message, the fellows
+very unceremoniously began plundering the villagers of goats, pigs, and
+poultry. The escort consisted of fifty horsemen, bold, fierce-looking
+fellows, more resembling a desperate band of robbers than peaceably-
+disposed individuals.
+
+Traversing a pleasant and fertile country, we entered the city of Khiama
+about ten in the morning, and were immediately conducted to the house of
+his majesty, whom we found sitting under the porch of his door, chucking
+some of his young wives under the chin. After shaking hands, he
+expressed a wish for us to repose ourselves till the heat of the day was
+over, and said he would pay us a visit in the cool of the evening.
+
+The king redeemed his pledge, and came at the appointed time, riding on
+one of the handsomest horses I ever saw. He was attended by numbers of
+people on horseback and on foot, and half a dozen naked girls _circling_
+round the animal on which he rode, flourishing spears with which they
+were furnished, and singing, in a loud voice, the praises of their
+husband and prince. Yarro (that is the monarch’s name) dismounted and
+entered our house, followed by the girls, who had left their weapons
+outside, and for decency’s sake had wrapped a piece of striped cotton
+round their delicate waists. After an hour’s conversation, in the course
+of which Captain Clapperton informed him of our motives for visiting his
+country, whither we intended to go, &c. the king left us, infinitely
+pleased, and the extraordinary procession returned in much the same
+order as it had come. A few minutes only had elapsed, when we were
+favored with a visit from the chief of a Houssa gafflee, or caravan
+(returned the day before from Gonja and Ashantee), and accompanied by a
+native of Bornou, both of whom strongly advised us to quit Khiama with
+as little delay as possible, asserting that the inhabitants were thieves
+to a man, and would not let slip the opportunity of putting their
+pilfering propensity to the trial on our goods and baggage. The Houssa
+caravan consisted of about a thousand individuals of both sexes, many of
+whom traded in the kola or goora nut. This nut, which is in high esteem
+and general use all through the interior, is frequently applied to the
+same purpose as the calumet of peace amongst the North American Indians,
+and is likewise used on all public occasions to testify the good
+understanding that prevails in the assembly: when presented to private
+individuals, it signifies that there is peace between the donor and
+receiver. The kola is the fruit of a beautiful tree, growing in
+abundance on many parts of the coast, and is an agreeable bitter and
+astringent; it also produces a rich yellow dye, which is oftentimes used
+by the natives in the embellishment of their persons. In some districts
+the nut is exceedingly scarce, and fetches an exhorbitant price; hence
+the traffic in it is carried on to an incredible extent, and yields an
+immense profit to those who are venturesome enough to risk the dangers
+of a long and perilous journey.
+
+Having been provided with a messenger, carriers, and horses, we quitted
+Khiama on the 18th, without experiencing, whilst in the city, any of the
+inconveniences we had been led to apprehend—the Houssa caravan had left
+us an hour or two previously, to proceed on the same road as ourselves.
+In the course of the morning we passed through two villages, excessively
+clean, inhabited by Falatahs, who were chiefly employed in pounding corn
+in wooden mortars; and sleeping at Bonàga, we overtook the caravan on
+Sunday the 19th. It was composed of a long line of horsemen, and people
+of both sexes on foot, loaded with bundles, both men and beasts
+apparently heartily tired with their long march. The women with them, as
+in every other instance that came within the compass of our own
+observation, bore the heaviest burdens, and seemed actually sinking to
+the earth with heat and fatigue, without exciting the compassion, or
+obtaining the assistance of the ruder and stronger companions of their
+journey; although several of the latter had little else to do besides
+keeping pace with the horses. We slept in a wood, under a tree, for the
+night, about half a mile from the Gonja traders.
+
+The country travelled over since we had left Katunga differed but
+slightly from the descriptions which have already been given of the
+other parts; the soil generally consisting of a rich reddish loam,
+intermixed with fine gravel. In some places it is thickly wooded, but in
+others not more than a dozen trees are to be found on an acre of land;
+on all sides, however, it is highly picturesque and beautiful.
+
+Numerous traces of antelopes, elephants, &c. were observable in the
+path; but (except in the instance before mentioned) we saw but few of
+those animals. The natives hunt the former, and with spears and poisoned
+arrows contrive to procure great numbers of them. The arrow is a speedy
+and effectual means of destroying wild animals; for being tipped with
+poison, the wound it inflicts is sure to prove mortal, although not
+quite so instantaneously as the natives would make one believe. The
+flesh of antelopes slain in this manner is eaten with avidity by the
+people, the hunters simply cutting off the parts near which the arrow
+may happen to penetrate. When this vegetable poison is taken internally
+it produces no pernicious effects, and it is only when it mingles with
+the blood that its consequences are so fatal. The natives, who, like the
+vulgar in Europe, are fond of the wonderful, tell a thousand singular
+stories respecting its malignancy, which are too improbable and
+ridiculous to be believed.
+
+At Barakina, a small but pleasant village, we met a hunter, clad in a
+leopard’s skin, returning from the chase, with his bow and arrows slung
+on his shoulder, and a light spear in his hand; a man with a dead
+antelope followed at a little distance; and three panting hounds, whose
+tongues, lolling out of their mouths, betrayed the severity of the
+exercise they had undergone, came after the man. The sable Nimrod took
+not the least notice of us, but passed through the village as
+incuriously as if he had been in the habit of seeing white faces every
+day.
+
+At twelve at noon on the same day we crossed a river said to take its
+rise in Nyffé, and to flow into the Niger above Rakah. Alligators were
+plentiful in the river, and one of our carriers, who was sent to fetch a
+calabash of water, was pursued by one of these monsters almost up to the
+trees under which our little party was encamped. The poor fellow was
+terribly frightened, and out of breath, on approaching us; and not all
+the promises in the world could induce him to make a second visit to the
+river.
+
+Our ears were ravished by the warbling of hundreds of small birds,
+which, with parrots and parroquets, peopled the branches of the trees in
+the vicinity of the stream, whose delightful banks were thereby
+overshadowed; and the eye was incessantly saluted with a variety of
+beautiful objects—groves of noble trees, verdant hills, and smiling
+plains, through which the river winded, carrying fertility and beauty in
+its course, and altogether forming a rich and charming landscape.
+
+We slept at Billa, a village on the south side of the river, in the
+night; and on the morning of Tuesday an escort of four horsemen arrived
+from the chief, or King of Wow Wow, to conduct us to that city, where we
+arrived after a journey of four hours, and took our station outside the
+monarch’s house, till its royal inmate, who was dressing to receive us,
+should make his appearance. After putting our patience to a severe
+trial, the King at length came out, supported on a staff, and walking
+with the solemn pace of a Spaniard up to our tree, seated himself on a
+stool that had been previously placed there for that purpose. We then
+dismounted, but were sorely dismayed on observing the chief, contrary to
+the custom of the country, shrinking from our hands which were extended
+towards him, just with as much repugnance as a European would from the
+proffered hand of a leper; but it was only to cover his with his tobe,
+which being done, he shook hands with the utmost cordiality. The King
+being a Mohammedan, fancied that the touch of a Christian would defile
+him; but this stiffness wore off on a more familiar acquaintance, and he
+subsequently displayed the characteristic virtues of Africans—generally
+hospitality and benevolence.
+
+In the evening we were visited by fifteen Dahomans, who saluted us with
+a discharge from two old rusty muskets. These men had been for five
+months beforehand assisting the Sultan of Youri in his war with the
+Falatahs, and were so far on their return to their own country. They
+extolled to the skies their own prowess in their engagements with the
+Falatahs, whilst they represented the people of Youri as the greatest
+cowards in the world. We were informed by them that Niki, five days’
+journey from Khiama, is the most considerable city in Borghoo; and that
+it was only about fifteen or sixteen days’ journey from Abomey, the
+capital of Dahomy.
+
+Wow Wow is the metropolis of a province of the same name, in the empire
+of Borghoo, and is governed by a ruler, named Mohammed, a Mussulman,
+strongly addicted to superstition, but of mild, unassuming, and pleasing
+manners. The city lies on a beautiful rising ground, with gentle hills
+on every side; and may contain, on a hasty computation, perhaps twenty
+thousand inhabitants. It is surrounded by a high and substantial mud
+wall, and broad deep trench. The houses in it are circular, and the
+streets spacious and airy; and it is without exception the neatest, most
+wholesome, and best regulated town of any in the interior. The
+inhabitants, or at least the better sort of them, dress in tobes, caps,
+and trousers; and are a cheerful, thoughtless set of people, yet fonder
+of music, carousing, singing, and dancing, than any people we met with
+in Africa. Drunkenness is their besetting sin; and the beverage in most
+esteem with them is a species of ale, called _pitto_, obtained from
+Indian corn previously made into malt. The process is simple, being much
+the same as the brewing of beer in England; only no hops are added to
+the malt.
+
+This sad propensity to intoxication, which males and females in every
+_grade_ of society love to cultivate, is the agent of many
+irregularities, and cause their notions of morality to be so very lax,
+that chastity itself is barely acknowledged by them as an excellence;
+nevertheless the people of Wow Wow have many substantial virtues, and
+agreeable qualities, which one can hardly help loving them for. Their
+generous hospitality is unbounded, and a parcel of more merry,
+facetious, happy scoundrels than the generality of them is not to be
+found in the world.
+
+The soil in the neighbourhood of Wow Wow is surprisingly rich and heavy;
+so that many of the necessaries of life spring up almost spontaneously
+from the earth, and others require but trifling labour in their
+cultivation and general management; hence the people have abundance of
+leisure, which they employ in feasting, drinking, sleeping, visiting,
+and oftentimes in less innocent recreations than these.
+
+The direct road from Badagry, Gonja, Dahomy, Ashantee, Jannah—to Nyffée,
+Houssa, Bornou, &c. lying through the town, its inhabitants are supplied
+with many of the luxuries of life at a more reasonable rate than their
+countrymen in less frequented districts, and their habitations have
+consequently more pretensions to _comfort_ than those of any people
+between Badagry and Soccatoo.
+
+Articles of merchandise, of English manufacture, such as Manchester
+goods, pewter plates, jugs, and dishes, are very common, both in Khiama
+and Wow Wow; and it is really laughable to observe to what elegant uses
+some of the latter are applied.
+
+The religion is either idolatry or Islamism; but these are so blended
+into each other, that it would be difficult to draw a line of
+distinction between the professors of either faith. Bigotry is unknown,
+and the wildest doctrines are tolerated with an amiable and forbearing
+spirit that does the government infinite credit!
+
+The marriages of the people are exceedingly simple, differing in no
+essential particular from the manner in which that ceremony is practised
+amongst Africans generally. A pagan pays his addresses to a girl, and
+if, after a short acquaintance, he fancies she will answer his purpose,
+he simply gives or sends a small present to the parents, who rarely
+raise any obstacles to balk his wishes; whereupon the female quits her
+father’s house, and resides, as long as she lives, with her suitor. The
+courtship of a Mohammedan is carried on in much the same fashion, with
+the addition of reading the _fatha_ (marriage ceremony). When tired of
+each other the “fatha” is again read, and the couple part for ever,
+(although they may have lived together for twenty years,) with as much
+coolness and unconcern as if they had been utter strangers to each
+other. This _convenient_ custom is greatly relished by every one, and is
+seldom known to produce any unpleasant consequences.
+
+The Africans have less of _sentiment_ in their love affairs than
+Europeans; they have no stolen interviews—no rambling in verdant
+fields—no affectionate squeezes of the hand—no language of the eyes—no
+refined feeling—no moonlight reveries; all is conducted in the most
+unpoetical business-like way imaginable, and is considered in the light
+of one of their least important concerns; the lover merely saying to his
+intended bride, “Should you like to become my wife, my dear?” to which
+the lady replies, “I have no objection.” “Then come and live with me,”
+retorts the man; and from that hour the couple reside together. This is
+the beginning and end of their courtship, and I never heard of a refusal
+on the lady’s part to embrace the proposal. The notions of female
+perfection amongst the people consist in the bulk, plumpness, and
+rotundity of the object; and a perfect beauty in their estimation, as it
+has often been remarked, is “a load for a camel!” This delicacy of taste
+is as general in Africa as it is in Turkey in Europe, although I never
+heard that the natives of the former country use any artificial means of
+increasing the size of their daughters, in order to their obtaining
+admirers. Allowing the qualities of bulk, &c. to be the criterion of
+beauty, the widow Zuma, who will by and by be introduced, would bear
+away the palm of superiority from every competitor, that lady being a
+whole world of fat and loveliness! and consequently the most elegant,
+the most charming, the most graceful, the most amiable, the most
+captivating beauty in the continent of Africa!!
+
+The ideas of handsomeness entertained by the _fair_ sex, with regard to
+their male companions, are extremely vague, and it is even difficult to
+ascertain whether they have any notion of comeliness at all; for a lady
+eagerly embraces the first offer, even if the fellow that makes it be as
+old as Methusala, and ugly as Sin. As a proof of this, I knew a pretty
+girl at Wow Wow, blooming with youth, and full of life and spirit,
+possessing besides uncommon shrewdness for an African: to this
+individual a tall, lanky, phantom-like man, evidently tottering on the
+brink of the grave, whose lantern jaws were of a truly formidable
+length, and who squinted most divinely, offered himself, and was of
+course accepted, although he had upwards of twenty wives at the time. On
+my questioning the damsel as to the reasons of her acceptance of a
+person so excessively old and ugly as her spouse, she answered very
+smartly something equivalent to the ancient saying still in use amongst
+the lower class of people in England, “a toad is a pearl in a duck’s
+eye!” and instantly left me. No doubt the number of wives of the old
+gentleman, which in Europe would be considered as a serious grievance,
+was one of the principal motives that had swayed her in the choice she
+had made; as by that criterion the wealth of the party is judged of.
+
+When a husband dies; the wives who have not borne him children are sold;
+whereas those who have had that good fortune are free for life, or at
+least till they change their condition a second time. The widows wear a
+rope round their head, neck, and waist, as mourning for their deceased
+husbands, for the space of twelve months (if they find no one inclined
+to make them an offer before the expiration of that period), when their
+weeds are flung off, and they cheerfully resume their ordinary apparel.
+
+When a Borghoo man dies, a pit is dug, either in his own house, or very
+near to it, and the body is placed in a sitting posture, with the hands
+and feet tied tightly with cord; the head inclining upwards. The horse
+and dog of the deceased, after being slaughtered, are buried with him,
+to assist him in his peregrinations in the other world; and his spear,
+and bow and arrows, are placed over the grave for the same purpose. On
+my questioning an inhabitant of Wow Wow, how it was possible for a man
+so confined to mount the horse, he shook his head, as much as to say the
+subject was of too sacred and delicate a nature to be talked lightly of.
+
+The men of Wow Wow are, in most instances, tall and well formed, and the
+women handsome, having far greater pretensions to beauty than either the
+people of Yariba, or those of Khiama, a neighbouring state. Numbers of
+horses are kept by the Wow-Wownese, the finest of which are imported
+from Bornou; the native breed, although strong and spirited, being
+excessively small. Horned cattle are much finer, and their flesh is
+superior in quality to those found on the coast. They are bred
+principally by Falatahs, numerous tribes of whom are scattered over the
+face of the country.
+
+Some of these same Falatahs profess the Mahommedan faith, and some
+worship idols, like the natives themselves, whilst others have no
+outward form of religion at all. Many of them are for ever wandering
+from place to place, like the Bedouin Arabs, and others spend a tranquil
+existence in the occupations of pasturage and agriculture. Several are
+suspected of stirring up the minds of the people against their rulers,
+and treated accordingly with as much contumely and disrespect as the
+Jews in some countries of Europe; and others again contribute, in an
+essential degree, to the comforts and convenience of the community in
+whose towns they may happen to dwell, and by whom they are esteemed and
+caressed; but all have less simplicity in their manners, and infinitely
+more art in their dealings, than those of the negro cast of feature,
+and, to every appearance, are a stage further advanced in civilization
+than they.
+
+Boussa is a province contiguous to Wow Wow, whose capital is also called
+Boussa, and is but one day’s journey, or about twenty miles, from the
+latter place. The island of Boussa, on which the city is built, is about
+three miles in length, and little more than one in breadth. It is
+situated in the river Niger, or, more properly speaking, the Quorra, and
+is chiefly remarkable as the place where the enterprising Mr. Park and
+his companions came by their melancholy death. It may contain sixteen or
+eighteen thousand inhabitants. The road to it from Wow Wow in the dry
+season is excellent, but in the wet or rainy months is almost
+impassable, by reason of its proximity to the river, which oftentimes
+overflows its banks. The country between the two capitals is hilly,
+woody, and picturesque, rivalling in beauty any portion between Badagry
+and Soccatoo; and its most remarkable feature is a rocky mountain in the
+shape of a cone, which Captain Clapperton called, after the reigning
+Monarch of England, “Mount George.”
+
+Thick woods approach even to the margin of the Quorra, and are tenanted
+by an ancient tribe of people termed Cumbrie (or Cumbrians), by all
+accounts the aborigines of the country, a harmless stupid race, who,
+from their tractable dispositions and love of tranquillity, are
+frequently imposed on by their spirited and more artful neighbours, and
+sold into slavery whenever a favourable opportunity can be obtained of
+kidnapping them.
+
+Many heavy branches of trees overhang, and, as it were, embrace the
+Menài, a branch of the Quorra, as it flows by, and impart a darkness and
+melancholy to the spot which are any thing but agreeable or enlivening.
+It was nearly sunset when I got into the canoe, in which I was ferried
+across the stream to Boussa; the evening was calm, clear, and beautiful;
+the fire-fly had already begun to shine and buzz in the air; the hollow
+roar of the crocodile was heard from the borders of the current, and the
+declining sun had tinged the surface of the water with a rich hue of
+crimson. The sound of sweet-toned instruments, and the hum of human
+voices mingling in concert, and wafted from the city to which I was
+approaching, produced a soothing and delightful effect; and as the
+little bark was propelled slowly through the lazy stream, the music
+sounded like a symphony of angels’ voices floating from the skies.
+
+The owner of the boat pointed out the spot where my daring countrymen
+had so unfortunately perished. After quitting it, their canoe had
+drifted on a reef of sunken rocks, not more than half a stone’s throw
+from the island, and had gone to pieces.
+
+Numerous small islands jut up from the bosom of the Quorra, which, near
+Boussa, branches into three distinct streams; but they are uninhabited,
+and little better than naked rocks. Two of the above streams flow
+sluggishly onwards, whilst the other rolls with a rapid current,
+fretting and foaming over vast masses of stone, and creates a noise
+which at a little distance might be mistaken for that produced by the
+waving of a forest of tall trees, when agitated by the wind.
+
+The Sultan of Youri, understanding that we intended visiting Boussa, had
+sent a messenger to that place a week before our arrival there, (with
+seven canoes laden with provisions,) to conduct us to the capital of his
+empire; but reports from various quarters agreed in representing the
+Prince of Youri to be a cruel, treacherous, and wicked man; and this
+fact, combined with the advanced state of the season, succeeded in
+deterring Captain Clapperton from embracing the monarch’s offer. He told
+the messenger, however, that it was solely on account of the rainy
+season so soon setting in, that he was obliged to decline his
+Sovereign’s proposal, but that he would certainly pay him a visit on his
+return from Bornou.
+
+We had all along been buoyed up with the hope of being able to obtain
+the journal and papers of the late Mungo Park at Boussa; but, to our
+great mortification and disappointment we discovered, that they had been
+either destroyed, or conveyed no one could tell whither, many years
+before. The inhabitants were exceedingly reserved on the subject of the
+fatal catastrophe, and uniformly gave equivocating or evasive answers to
+our enquiries as to the manner in which it had occurred. They seemed
+indeed overwhelmed with shame at the part they or their fathers had
+taken in the dreadful tragedy, and did all in their power to shift the
+blame from the shoulders of themselves and their countrymen.
+
+The following appeared the most accurate and best authenticated version
+of the dismal story of the deaths of Park and Martin, that I was enabled
+to obtain whilst I was in the country:
+
+The voyagers had reached Youri in safety, and were on intimate and
+familiar terms with its Sultan, father to the reigning prince, who
+intreated them to finish their journey through the country by land,
+instead of proceeding down the Quorra to the salt water; observing, that
+the people inhabiting the islands and borders of the river, were
+ferocious in their manners, and would not suffer their canoe to proceed
+without having first rifled it of its contents, and exposed them to
+every species of indignity and insult; and that if their lives were
+spared, they would infallibly be detained as domestic slaves. This evil
+report was considered as the effect of jealousy and prejudice: and,
+disregarding the prudent counsel of the Sultan of Youri, the ill-fated
+adventurers proceeded down the Quorra as far as the island of Boussa,
+from whence their strange-looking canoe was observed by one or two of
+the inhabitants, whose shouts brought numbers of their companions, armed
+with bows and arrows, to the spot. At that time the usurpations of the
+Falatahs had begun to be the general talk of the black population of the
+country, so that the people of Boussa, who had only _heard_ of that
+warlike nation, fancied Mr. Park and his associates to be some of them,
+coming with the intention of taking their town, and subjugating its
+inhabitants. Under this impression, they saluted the unfortunate
+Englishmen from the beach with showers of missiles and poisoned arrows,
+which were returned by the latter with a discharge of musketry. A small
+white flag had been previously waved by our countrymen, in token of
+their peaceable intentions; but this symbol not being understood by the
+people of Boussa, they continued firing arrows, till they were joined by
+the whole male population of the island, when the unequal contest was
+renewed with greater violence than ever. In the meantime the Englishmen,
+with the blacks they had with them, kept firing unceasingly amongst the
+multitude on shore, killing many, and wounding a still greater number,
+till their ammunition being expended, and seeing every hope of life cut
+off, they threw their goods overboard; and desiring their sable
+assistants to swim towards the beach, locked themselves firmly in each
+other’s arms, and springing into the water, instantly sank, and were
+never seen again.
+
+The bodies of the two slaves, who attempted to save their lives by
+swimming, were pierced with a grove of arrows, but they subsequently
+recovered from the effects of their wounds, and were certainly alive
+when we were at Boussa, but, as I understood afterwards, they were
+carefully concealed, in order to prevent our making any inquiries of
+them relative to the affair.
+
+Resistance being thus at an end, the floating property had been eagerly
+laid hold of by the people of Boussa, and taken in triumph to their
+city. In the evening they formed a circle round it, and for several days
+and nights nothing was to be seen or heard but feasting and rejoicing;
+but it happened that before their revelries were well over, an
+infectious disease, whereof they had not previously had the most distant
+idea, raged in the island, and swept off the Sultan, with numbers of his
+subjects; and it was remarked, that those who had been most active in
+the destruction of the strangers were cut off to a man, expiring in
+great agony. The people endeavoured to appease the wrath of the white
+man’s God, (by whose instrumentality they were firmly persuaded the
+destroying plague had reached them,) by the offering of sacrifices, and
+afterwards by setting fire to all the articles found on the surface of
+the water; shortly after which, it is asserted, the pestilence left the
+island. Meantime the news of the occurrence, and its fatal results,
+spread like wild-fire through the neighbouring states; and the people of
+Boussa were stigmatized with a reproachful epithet, for having been
+guilty of so heinous a crime. Hence the studied reserve of the reigning
+Sultan and his subjects, which no consideration could tempt them to
+break through, so as to enter into the details of the tragedy; and hence
+also the expression, so beneficial to us in those regions, and so
+prevalent amongst all ranks and conditions: “Do not hurt the white men;
+for if you do, you _will perish like the people of Boussa!_”
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER VI.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+Widow Zuma’s love adventures — Departure from Wow Wow — Arrival at
+Coulfo — Civil war in Nyffé — Ceremonies observed by the people of
+Coulfo at the end of the Rhamadan — Tornado at that place, and its
+disastrous consequences — The Travellers quit Coulfo, and proceed on
+their journey — The Author attacked with dysentery — His sufferings —
+Noble conduct of Captain Clapperton towards him — They enter Zeg Zeg —
+Arrive at Kano.
+
+
+Whilst we remained in the city of Wow Wow, we were visited almost every
+day by a widow lady, of Arab extraction, named _Zuma_ (_Honey_ in
+English), between thirty and forty years of age, who, if one might be
+allowed to judge from the remaining charms which were still visible in
+her countenance, had been really beautiful in her younger years. This
+individual was vastly rich, being the acknowledged mistress of a
+thousand slaves; and from her excessive plumpness, and extraordinary
+size, was the exact counterpart of our bulky friend Ebo, the fat eunuch
+of Katunga. Zuma’s affection for my master and myself was unbounded, and
+as it led to an adventure perhaps never equalled in novelty by any
+incident that has occurred to Europeans in the bosom of Africa, I hope I
+may be forgiven in attempting to trace its causes and effects, without
+which my narrative would be incomplete; for they are so intimately
+connected with each other, that it would be impossible to disunite them.
+
+In order to give a clearer idea of the story, it will be necessary to
+remark, that Zuma was married in early life to one of the principal
+inhabitants of Wow Wow; but her spouse dying shortly after she had given
+birth to a son, she was left immensely rich, and lived in almost regal
+splendour in the native town of her deceased husband. Nature had endowed
+Zuma with an active, restless, and ambitious mind; insomuch that not
+long after she had become a widow, and before the regular term of
+mourning had expired, her weeds were thrown aside, and she aspired to
+the government of Wow Wow, by attempting to depose her sovereign. But
+Mohammed, although an imbecile and superstitious prince, could
+
+
+  “Bear, like a Turk, no rival near his throne!”
+
+
+and was roused into action at the threatening aspect his too powerful
+subject had assumed. Instantly arming his vassals, he made a sudden and
+unexpected attack on the slaves of the rebellious lady, who for want of
+an efficient leader were put completely to the rout, though without
+bloodshed, and Zuma herself taken prisoner. Whether it was owing to the
+profound veneration in which that elegant lady’s charms were held by the
+monarch, to the natural mildness of his disposition, or to the fear of
+stirring up the people against him, I could not learn; but certain it is
+that Zuma was pardoned, and set at liberty, after a confinement of only
+one or two days; and though she had repeated her treasonable attempt
+several times, even up to the period of our visiting the city, the same
+amiable forbearance had been extended to her.
+
+It was the misfortune of the far-famed Zuma to fancy herself, for no
+reason in the world, to be extremely fair, and although she had
+certainly passed the “Age of the Passions,” she took it into her head to
+fall desperately in love with me, whose complexion, she affirmed,
+rivalled her own in whiteness! The frequency of her visitations to our
+house nourished the tender feeling, which was encouraged by Captain
+Clapperton, who relished a joke with all his heart, and did his utmost
+to inflame the lady’s passion, by passing a thousand unmeaning
+compliments on the regularity of my features, and the handsomeness of my
+person. “See what beautiful eyes he has,” observed the Captain; “if you
+were to search from Badagry to Wow Wow, and from Wow Wow to Bornou, you
+would not find such eyes.” For my own part I was but a novice in the art
+of courtship, and imagining it to be altogether in jest, took little
+pains to spoil the fun by shrinking from it. Besides, Zuma had behaved
+remarkably well to us in sending, repeatedly, presents of provisions,
+together with every luxury with which she was acquainted, and I was
+rather glad than otherwise to have her for our guest,
+
+
+        ------“For the heart must
+
+  Leap kindly back to kindness;”
+
+
+and neither of us wished to offend a lady of her consequence by being
+morose and unsociable in manners, or by repelling her advances with
+ridicule and contempt.
+
+For an hour together the widow would gaze intently on me, while the most
+amorous glances shot from her large, full, and certainly beautiful eye,
+which confused and disconcerted me not a little, even though I was
+surrounded by strangers and in the heart of Africa; for I had been a
+wanderer from my childhood, and had had but few opportunities of
+mingling in the delightful company of the gentler sex in my own country,
+and consequently was excessively bashful on coming in contact with
+ladies, whether in the country of the Hottentots, or the birth-place of
+the widow Zuma.
+
+As for my master, he was sensibly delighted with these interviews, and
+with his arms folded on his breast, while thick volumes of tobacco-smoke
+rolled from his pipe, he with the most impenetrable gravity enjoyed the
+scene, and looked as happy and as much at home as if he had been seated
+by his friends in his native Scotland. After the widow’s departure, it
+was his usual custom, tapping me on the shoulder, to ask how I felt my
+heart, and observe what a boast I could make, on our return to England,
+of so magnificent a conquest.
+
+All this I took in good part for some days; but things beginning, at
+length, to wear a more serious aspect than I had at first anticipated, I
+was resolved to bring this whimsical courtship to a conclusion as
+speedily as possible. I was the more inclined to do so, because I did
+not wish to wound the feelings of even a _black_ lady (for black she
+most certainly was, although not quite so deep a sable as the
+aborigines), by trifling with them; nor did I forget the exclamation of
+the frog in the fable:—“It may be sport to you, but it is death to us!”
+
+Independently of the delicate state of my health, which incapacitated me
+from carrying on so curious an amour with the spirit and gallantry it
+required, I was positively afraid that, from the warmth and energy of
+Zuma’s embraces, I should actually be pressed to death between her
+monstrous arms! I was but a youth, and my short residence in the country
+had certainly impaired a constitution originally robust and vigorous; by
+reason of which I was sadly apprehensive that one of her Brobdignagian
+hugs would send me into the other world with very little ceremony. These
+reflexions I had seriously revolved in my mind; and on her next visit I
+candidly told the widow by signs, words, and gestures, that I could not
+love her; but she either did not or would not understand me. I remarked
+that I should never choose a _black_ wife: she pointed to her face, and
+said she was a _white_ woman. I then observed that it would be
+impossible for me to exist in her country, the heat being insupportable.
+Her reply was disinterested and tender:—“Then I will quit it, and follow
+you to whichever part of the world you may be inclined to lead me.” Thus
+beset on all sides, I hardly knew what to say next; but after a short
+pause, summing up all my resolution, I gave my greasy inamorata a flat
+refusal to see her again in the light of a lover, as it was out of her
+power to awaken in my breast a corresponding sensation to that which
+reigned in her own! and saying this I instantly left the apartment;
+whilst Zuma, poor lady,
+
+
+  ----“Rais’d a sigh so piteous and profound,
+
+  As it did seem to shatter all her bulk,
+
+  And end her being!”
+
+
+I was surprised, however, to find that my cruelty had produced no
+visible impression on the widow, and that her _heart_ was big in
+proportion to the largeness of her _body_; for I discovered that she
+could love _two_ individuals at the same time with as much ardour and
+sincerity as _one_ only. Seeing all hopes of success effectually shut
+out on my side, she had the good sense to discontinue her solicitations
+(although she continued her kindness), and looked as tenderly on me as
+ever; and applied herself strenuously to be on a more affectionate and
+familiar footing with Captain Clapperton, whose favourable notice she
+strove to attract by all the fascinating allurements she was mistress
+of; and actually went so far as to bribe Pasko, our Houssa interpreter,
+with a young and handsome girl for a wife, in order that he might use
+his _powerful_ influence to bring the matter between my master and
+herself to an amicable adjustment. The old libertine accepted the
+present with rapture, which made the third or fourth spouse he had had
+since leaving Badagry, but he was prudent enough to retain his counsel
+within his own bosom.
+
+A white husband and happiness were synonymous terms with the gentle and
+delicate Zuma, and she grasped at even the shadow of it with an
+eagerness and determination that caused her to overstep the boundaries
+of that amiable modesty which is so pleasing and peculiar a
+characteristic of her sex, whereby she did more towards injuring her own
+cause than coyness or reserve would have done. The Captain carried on
+the innocent game for some time, for we were greatly in want of
+something to enliven us; and so romantic an adventure as this, in such a
+place, and under such circumstances, caused us very many hours of
+diversion, and was an amusing subject of conversation even up to the
+period of my master’s last illness at Soccatoo.
+
+Poor widow Zuma! I almost fancy I see her now, waddling into our house,
+a moving world of flesh, “puffing and blowing like a blacksmith’s
+bellows,” and the very pink and essence of African fashion. Her hair
+used to be carefully dyed with indigo, and of a rich and vivid blue; her
+feet and hands stained with hennah and an extraction of the goora-nut,
+produced alternate streaks of red and yellow; and her teeth were also
+tinged with a delicate crimson stain. In the adornment of her person,
+likewise, the buxom widow evinced considerable taste. Her bared neck and
+bosom were ornamented with coral and gold beads, which, contrasted with
+the dingy colour of her skin, occasioned a truly captivating effect!
+while a dress of striped silk, hanging in graceful folds from the waist
+to the ancles, set off her _fairy form_ to the best possible advantage!
+Thus beautified, the accomplished Zuma used to sit cross-legged on our
+mat, and chewing the goora-nut, or a little tobacco-snuff, she was
+without exception the most ravishing object that came across our path in
+all our wanderings!
+
+One day she invited my master to visit her at her own house, where she
+took the opportunity of displaying to him her wealth and grandeur, the
+number of her slaves, and her princely domestic establishment, all of
+which the tempter assured him he should share with her if he would
+consent to be her husband. No encouragement whatever was given to the
+lady; but when Capt. Clapperton left the town for Boussa a short time
+afterwards, Madam Zuma, dressed in her gaudiest attire, followed when he
+had got about six miles on his journey, having called before she set out
+to see me. On this occasion she wore a mantle of silk and gold, and
+loose trowsers of scarlet silk, with red morocco boots; her blue head
+was enveloped in the ample folds of a white turban, and she rode astride
+on the back of a noble horse, which came prancing before the door of our
+hut, decorated with a number of brass plates and bells, as well as a
+profusion of charms or amulets enclosed in green, red, and yellow
+leather. Her saddle-cloth was of scarlet, and the appearance of both
+widow and horse was singularly imposing. In her train were many spearmen
+on horseback, and bowmen on foot, with a band of musicians furnished
+with drums, fiddles, guitars, and flutes, who continued playing till
+their mistress was fairly out of the town. The widow briefly told me of
+her intention to accompany Capt. Clapperton to Kano, &c. &c. which
+eclaircissement startled me for an instant; but, putting on my most
+serious look, I wished her a pleasant journey, and hoped I should
+overtake her myself in a day or two. Zuma then took her leave, and the
+whole cavalcade was quickly out of sight.
+
+I was absolutely longing to learn the issue of this strange elopement of
+Zuma’s; and was engaged in making preparations previously to my
+departure for Coulfo, in Nyffé, when a message from the king, forbidding
+my departure from Wow Wow, diverted me from my intention, and overturned
+all my plans. I had an interview with the irritated Mohammed the same
+day, and another on the following one; but my efforts to induce him to
+change his resolution were abortive. He turned a deaf ear to all my
+eloquence, and would not suffer me to quit the town for any
+consideration; “For,” said the king, “your countryman has eloped with
+the captious Zuma, who will raise up enemies, and make war upon me, if
+she be not speedily checked; and the better way to accomplish this is to
+detain you here with the baggage, which will bring back the ‘great white
+man,’ and the widow will not be able to remain behind long after.”
+
+In order to secure me the more effectually, our house was guarded by a
+dozen soldiers, who had received strict injunctions not to let me escape
+on any account. I contrived, however, to elude the vigilance of my
+keepers, and, taking with me a boy only twelve years of age, who had
+assisted me in making my escape, I hastily mounted my Yariba pony, and
+was on the road to Boussa in an instant.
+
+At sunset I crossed the Menài, a branch of the Quorra, leading to the
+island; and after landing shortly entered the city. As soon as I was
+recognized as one of the strangers, a good house was immediately
+prepared for my reception, and I was presently honored with a visit from
+the king and queen, who informed me that my master had left Boussa, and
+that, if I were to travel all night, it would be impossible to overtake
+him before the next morning; they would therefore insist upon my
+remaining and sleeping in the city. My royal visitors staid with me a
+considerable time, and the queen gave directions about my supper, and
+even assisted to prepare it with her own hands.
+
+A multitude of the usual questions were put to me by their majesties,
+which, on account of my almost total ignorance of the language in which
+they were uttered, I was not very well qualified to answer; but,
+notwithstanding this inconvenience, we succeeded in making ourselves
+pretty well understood; and from the excessive kindness, and watchful
+anxiety to anticipate my wants, displayed by the king and his royal
+consort, it was evident that I was a great favourite with them.
+
+The queen had certainly not much of the widow Zuma about her, either in
+appearance or manners; being delicate in person, and possessing a native
+dignity and gracefulness of mien that could not fail to please. The
+features of the royal couple bore a closer resemblance to the European
+than the negro cast, and might be styled handsome, even in England;
+besides which an ineffable sweetness shone upon the countenance of
+Medàki, the queen, and there was an agreeableness in the innocent
+freedom of her deportment that captivated me at first sight. A tear of
+pity trembled in the expressive eye of Medàki, when, observing my
+emaciated looks, and surveying me from head to foot, she enquired if I
+had a mother in my own country; and when I answered that I had not, she
+said, “Poor white man! then who have you at home to talk about you, and
+make fetishes for your preservation whilst you remain away?” I was
+certainly not prepared to meet with such extraordinary kindness at
+Boussa; and it shows the great revolution that has taken place in the
+opinions of the people since Mr. Park’s appearance in the interior.
+
+I had been extremely unwell before leaving Wow Wow; and my rapid journey
+on the back of a lean horse, without saddle or bridle, had nowise
+improved my health; fatigue also had rendered me so sleepy that after
+supper I could with difficulty keep my eyes open, and my answers to the
+queries of the royal pair were given at random. It was in vain that I
+bit my tongue and lips, and used every other means I could devise in
+order to arouse myself from the stupid state I was in; the inclination
+to slumber overcame them all, and at last I fell fast asleep. On awaking
+in the night I found myself alone, with a solitary lamp burning in my
+apartment; and was informed, an hour or two afterwards, that their
+majesties, as soon as they saw me fairly insensible, had left me in the
+care of two slaves, and returned to their own abode, after expressly
+desiring them to make no noise that might awaken me. Next morning I went
+to the king to apologize for my unintentional breach of etiquette; and
+shaking hands with the royal couple, who wished me every happiness, I
+returned to Wow Wow (whither I had learnt Captain Clapperton had also
+gone back), in company of two armed men, who had been furnished as a
+protection against highway robbers, with which the road was declared to
+be infested. On my arrival in the city, I found that my master had
+entered it but a few minutes before, but had not seen the fat widow
+during his absence.
+
+A short time only had elapsed before we resolved to go to the king; and
+being ushered into an apartment, found the important personage yawning
+from the effects of his afternoon’s nap. The Captain was the fittest
+person in the world to deal with the African rulers. The first thing he
+did was to shake hands affectionately and heartily with the sullen
+Mohammed, covering his face at the same time with smiles and looks of
+joy on seeing him again; but the king accepted the compliment with just
+so good a grace as a growling mastiff would receive the caresses of a
+person against whom he bears a grudge; neither willing to bite the hand
+that pats its big head, nor wishing to be altogether on a friendly
+footing with its suspected friend. “What pleasure it gives me to see you
+again,” said my master; “I have not beheld so handsome a face as yours
+since leaving the city. I suppose you did not think it safe to send my
+baggage after me; and am therefore come to fetch it myself. I have seen
+the king of Boussa, who, with the Medàki, gave so very favorable an
+account of you, that really I am filled with admiration for your talents
+and virtues; and am sure there cannot be your equal in the whole
+country.” All this the great man listened to with a deal of attention,
+and one could perceive plainly enough that the sternness of his features
+gradually gave place to a softer and kindlier expression; indeed, from
+the commencement of the above well-timed encomium, a smile overspread
+his sable countenance which promised the most flattering results. His
+majesty then, with the utmost dignity, detailed his reasons for the line
+of conduct he had been obliged to adopt, in consequence of his belief
+that the Captain and the rebellious Zuma had entered into a conspiracy
+to usurp his authority; that when their treasonable object should be
+accomplished, he would be put out of the way, in order that my master
+might take the reins of government into his own hands. He added that the
+widow had been guilty of similar unlawful practices before, but had
+failed in her attempts; and that notwithstanding the lenity with which
+she had been treated, her thoughts were perpetually employed in devising
+means for the execution of her ambitious designs; and she had moreover
+threatened him unceasingly with raising an army to overcome and destroy
+him. As this was spoken with an air of great solemnity, and towards the
+latter part of it with emotion, which was plainly evinced by his tears,
+my master thought proper to disclaim, with correspondent energy and
+seriousness, the imputations on his own character, by professing himself
+a total stranger to the widow’s movements from the time of his departure
+from Wow Wow; and as for deposing so powerful a prince as Mohammed, and
+taking Zuma to wife, such things were altogether beyond his ambition;
+and he ridiculed the very idea of it. He therefore hoped that the king
+would no longer refuse his permission for the party under his (Captain
+Clapperton’s) command, to go on immediately, as he had bargained with
+the chief of the Houssa caravan to convey the goods to Kano, and he was
+impatiently waiting his arrival at the ferry. The old gentleman,
+however, was not quite so easily prevailed upon as we had anticipated;
+and in all probability was smitten with the widow’s charms himself; for
+he declared with firmness, that until the absent lady returned, both my
+master and myself must abandon all thoughts of proceeding on our
+journey, or of again leaving Wow Wow. Further cajolery, we knew, would
+have been superfluous, so we were obliged to make a virtue of necessity,
+and wait patiently the re-appearance of our affectionate friend, the
+amiable Zuma. To our infinite joy that circumstance took place on the
+5th of April, the day after our conference with the prince; the widow
+had not been able to meet with the object of her tender solicitude, and
+hearing that he had re-visited Wow Wow, agreeably to the prediction of
+Mohammed, returned to that town in much the same order as she had
+quitted it about a week before, without discovering the slightest
+symptoms either of disappointment at the ill-success of her jaunt, or
+fear for having so egregiously offended her sovereign.
+
+Like most of her sex, however, Zuma knew perfectly well how to adapt her
+conduct to circumstances, and was, moreover, complete mistress of the
+art of dissimulation and deceit; for no sooner had she entered her own
+habitation, than her splendid habiliments were instantly thrown aside,
+and a dress of common country cloth substituted in their stead. Thus
+meanly attired, she paid her respects to Mohammed in our presence, and
+saluted him by falling on her knees, with her elbows to the earth,
+while, supporting her head on the palms of her hands, she shed a whole
+river of tears. Surely
+
+
+  “Heav’n gave to woman the peculiar grace
+
+   To spin, to weep, and cully human race.”
+
+
+The great man looked sternly on her at first; but whose heart could be
+proof against _so much_ loveliness in distress, and in that humiliating
+posture? Anger forsook his brow, as the prince of Wow Wow requested the
+repentant woman to rise; and simply upbraiding her for disregarding his
+authority and threatening to subvert his government, he shook hands, and
+desired her to go her way, but be more cautious of offending him in
+future. The widow accordingly left the house, and shaking the dust from
+her feet in token of bravado, cast a “longing, lingering look
+behind;”—and we saw no more of the generous, the kind-hearted, the
+affectionate, the ambitious, but above all the enormous widow Zuma!
+
+This singular adventure, although it caused us to laugh heartily, had
+been of a much more serious nature than we could have foreseen, and had
+given us much unnecessary trouble, as well as occasioned some days’
+delay; but when it was thus satisfactorily terminated, we resolved to be
+more guarded in encouraging, even in jest, the advances of the African
+belles, as our lives might thereby be endangered, by exciting the
+prejudices of the people against us. The widow being returned, and
+having promised to abide in peace, his majesty of Wow Wow offered no
+further impediment to our departure, and we quitted his capital on the
+following day.
+
+After passing through three or four insignificant villages, inhabited by
+_Cambrie_, we arrived at Comoe, a good-sized town, about half a mile
+from the ferry, in which we remained three days, as Captain Clapperton
+was too weak and ill to proceed at an earlier period.
+
+On the 10th we crossed the Quorra, running in a southerly direction,
+which is full of diminutive islands, and about the width of the Thames
+at Westminster. We had now left the Borghoo country, and were treading
+on the soil of Nyffé; and notwithstanding the unfavorable account every
+where received of the rapacity, dishonesty, and injustice of the natives
+generally, we ever found them strictly honorable in their dealings
+towards us, good-natured and cheerful; and were always ready not only to
+do a benevolent action, but willing to sacrifice personal comfort to our
+accommodation.
+
+At one o’clock we entered Galloway, a village about eight miles from the
+Quorra, where we changed carriers, and reaching another village called
+Yowta, slept there for the night. Iron is found in abundance on and in
+the neighbouring hills, and requires very little labour in procuring it.
+The plains and borders of the river were cultivated with yams, millet,
+the plantain, &c. We observed numerous nests of termites (the white
+ants) at and near Yowta, reared by those formidable insects to the
+almost incredible height of twenty feet. These immense anthills were
+constructed of earth or clay, divided into distinct apartments, which
+evinced considerable ingenuity, and at a distance greatly resembled the
+huts of the natives.
+
+The country traversed was exceedingly populous, and on the eleventh the
+villages lay at no greater distance from each other than two miles; at
+every one of which we were obliged to change carriers, and this caused
+us infinite trouble and great delay. The chief of the Houssa caravan
+also began to equivocate, raising a thousand obstacles in our way, and
+did all in his power to detain us on the road as long as possible, in
+order that he might avoid the Falatahs, who were then at Coulfo, making
+preparations for their return to Soccatoo.
+
+On Wednesday the 12th we crossed a stream, over which was thrown a
+wretched and insecure bridge, the first we had seen in the country, and
+constructed of branches of trees, covered with a thick layer of clay;
+and on reaching a village at a short distance from the spot, all our
+carriers, as if by instinct, simultaneously dropped their burdens, and
+scampered off as fast as if they had been running for their lives. In a
+few moments we were surrounded by great numbers of the male inhabitants
+of the place, who were armed with bows and arrows; and, pretending not
+to understand a word of the Houssa language, the fellows snatched up the
+deserted property, and before we had time to prevent them, or ask what
+they intended doing, went off with it at an inconceivable rate, we
+following on horseback, till tired and out of breath, the blacks halted
+at another assemblage of huts on the banks of the same stream we had
+crossed the preceding day, forming a portion of Tabria. Resting there
+for a short period, the good-natured people voluntarily caught up the
+baggage a second time, and passing with all haste over a bridge to the
+opposite side of the river, finally stopped in front of the house of one
+of the head men of the place.
+
+The village forms the remaining part of the before mentioned town, with
+which it is connected by a miserable old bridge, and it contains a great
+population.
+
+Coming at length to an explanation with the martial carriers of our
+baggage, we had it lodged in a large empty hut for the night; but the
+fellows returned to their town very much dissatisfied with the trifle
+with which they were remunerated; for they had hoped that on entering
+Tabria the property would have become their own.
+
+Tabria consists of two towns, lying on the margins of a stream or river
+called the May-yarrow, which are connected together by a wooden bridge;
+and both places may contain eighteen thousand inhabitants. They are
+occasionally visited by the sovereigns of Nyffé.
+
+An exterminating civil war had been raging in the kingdom, and was still
+in active operation at the period of our arrival; one party of the
+natives siding with Edrisi, a pagan, the rightful heir to the throne of
+his deceased father; and the other leaning on the side of Mohammed, a
+Mussulman, who had disputed his brother’s right of succession. By far
+the major part of the people, being pagans, were decidedly in favour of
+the former prince; but the other having invited the Falatahs to his
+assistance, had completely beaten his less fortunate brother, and it was
+generally expected that in the next campaign Edrisi would be driven from
+the country; or, if taken prisoner, decapitated without mercy. A
+cessation of hostilities had been resolved on by the belligerent parties
+on the day we entered Tabria; but the contest would be resumed, it was
+affirmed, after the rains.
+
+The queen dowager of Nyffé, a decrepit and infirm old lady, one of whose
+eyes had been accidentally shot out of her head by an arrow, resided at
+Tabria, with the head wife of Mohammed. That prince himself was at a
+place three days’ journey from the town; and the old queen having
+intimated to Captain Clapperton, that it would be well for him to visit
+her son, before he quitted the country, with a suitable present, my
+master thought proper to accede to the wishes of the queen mother; and
+leaving me in charge of the baggage, &c. carried his intention into
+effect on the 21st of April.
+
+During the Captain’s absence I used daily to take a ramble on the
+borders of the May-Yarrow, and amuse myself with my gun, plenty of game
+existing in the vicinity. The river is serpentine, and of irregular
+breadth; in some places so narrow that a person may easily jump across,
+and at others widening from twenty to thirty yards; its depth generally
+fluctuating between eight and twelve feet. Thousands of monkeys inhabit
+the leafy branches of the trees that overhang the stream; and play all
+manner of mischievous tricks on the people who may venture to stroll in
+that direction. Going one day with the design of shooting guinea-fowl, I
+unintentionally killed two of these little animals, and wounded a third,
+which fell, apparently dead, at my feet. I took them to our lodgings,
+and the hostess immediately offered forty cowries for each of them; but,
+perceiving signs of life in the wounded monkey, I kept it, with the
+intention of ascertaining whether it would recover, and spared her the
+slain ones. The good woman, having skinned and broiled the animals, sat
+down to partake of them with two or three of her neighbours, and after
+making a sumptuous repast, declared the flesh to be sweeter and richer
+than that of any animal with which she was acquainted. One of our
+landlady’s guests, falling in love with the living monkey, took the
+liberty of stealing it in the night, when, no doubt, it shared the fate
+of its companions.
+
+On the 24th the usurper’s eldest daughter paid me a visit, bringing with
+her a present of yams and rice; and being a very agreeable girl, I
+solicited her so pressingly to take tea with me, that the princess
+accepted the invitation, after which we took a walk together through the
+town, arm in arm, _à l’Europe_. The inhabitants of Fabria stood staring
+at us with open mouths, for some seconds, and wondering greatly what
+could be the meaning of so singular a custom, when they set up so
+astounding a roar of laughter, as put her royal highness fairly out of
+countenance; and I was obliged to re-conduct her to our lodgings with
+the utmost haste. On entering them, I made her a trifling present, with
+which she was infinitely pleased; and the princess of the powerful
+kingdom of Nyffé went away dancing, singing, and capering, and promised
+to honour me with another visit on the morning of the next day.
+
+The Falatahs left Coulfo for Soccatoo the day after our arrival at
+Tabria, with a thousand slaves, some of whom were partizans of Edrisi,
+who had been taken prisoners by that prince. Besides this, they
+compelled Mohammed to present them with four hundred tobes, which with
+the slaves they took to Sultan Bello, as a partial recompence for the
+services they had rendered his cause in the late desolating campaign.
+Mohammed, called by his people the _Magee_, was a most cruel and inhuman
+prince, and the greatest scourge that had ever afflicted his country. He
+had poisoned, it was confidently reported, a younger brother and two of
+his sons, for having ventured to express their opinion against his wild
+and inordinate ambition, in attempting to rule the kingdom against the
+interests and inclinations of the people; and because they, in common
+with their countrymen, hated the Falatahs most cordially, for the
+willingness and alacrity they had ever displayed to embroil Nyffé in
+civil war, to the advancement of their own influence, and the
+aggrandizement of their own power.
+
+The war was still raging in Nyffé on my return to that country from
+Houssa, with far different prospects. The pagan brother, Edrisi, had
+recovered from the effects of his defeats, and gained important
+advantages over Mohammed and the Falatahs, his allies. This good success
+was owing to a large body of men having come to Edrisi’s assistance from
+Benin, and inspired with fresh courage his disspirited followers. These
+individuals had proceeded up the Quorra in canoes, and landed at
+_Mulagee_, a small town in Nyffé situated on the banks of that river; a
+junction was then immediately formed with the pagan natives of the
+country, and an attack made on the Mussulmans with European muskets, a
+great number of which they had brought with them; when the latter, with
+the Magee at their head, were defeated with dreadful slaughter, and the
+Falatahs being the objects against whom the fire-arms of the people of
+Benin were more particularly directed, very few of them, comparatively
+speaking, escaped with life. The week before I revisited Tabria,
+Mohammed had experienced another signal overthrow, and it was generally
+believed by the inhabitants that the remnant of the Falatahs, who had
+been so roughly handled, would be obliged to abandon Nyffé in a few
+days, and return, discomfited, to Soccatoo, in which case Edrisi would
+reign in the kingdom, and Mohammed either follow the Falatahs, or lose
+his life by remaining behind.
+
+On the 25th Captain Clapperton returned from the camp of Mohammed, and
+on Tuesday the 2nd of May we proceeded on our journey by a path winding
+along the delightful banks of the May-yarrow. Passing near to Gonda, a
+walled village, and crossing a broad but shallow stream, we entered by
+one of the gates into the town of Coulfo, which is distant from Tabria,
+in a direct line, only four miles.
+
+Coulfo is the most considerable market town in Nyffé, and the general
+emporium of that part of Africa. It contains between fifteen and sixteen
+thousand _resident_ inhabitants, and, like most towns of any
+consideration or extent in the country, is surrounded by a high wall,
+outside of which is a deep and broad ditch.
+
+The May-yarrow flows by the wall of the town, and is a source of much
+comfort to the inhabitants, particularly by reason of its imparting an
+agreeable coolness to the atmosphere, which is very desirable in the
+heat of the day. Markets are daily held at Coulfo, and an immense
+variety of articles, of native and foreign manufacture, are exposed for
+sale in them. Traders resort in vast numbers from Bornou and Soccatoo to
+the north and east, and from the sea coast to the west, with the produce
+and manufactures of their respective countries, for which they find
+ready buyers in the town. Slaves, horses, asses, and horned cattle, are
+brought from every part of Africa, as well as silk, wrought and
+unwrought, cotton, natron, beads, turbans, scarlet caps, goora nuts,
+malaguetta pepper, red wood, &c.; the traffic in which is carried on to
+an indefinite extent.
+
+The inhabitants of Coulfo, like the natives of many parts of the ivory
+and gold coasts, anoint their bodies with softened clay, or pounded wood
+of the same colour, with which a little grease is invariably mixed. They
+are principally Mahommedans, and perform a few of the rites and
+ceremonies prescribed by the prophet, such as praying a given number of
+times in the day, frequent lustrations of the hands and face, and a
+rigid adherence to the fast of the Rhamadan. In other respects, however,
+they do not conform to the moral precepts of the Koran, drunkenness
+being their ruling passion; and so addicted are they to falsehood and
+deception, and so generally prevalent are these vices become, that all
+sense of their impropriety is lost amongst the people, and it is not
+considered discreditable for the most respectable individuals in the
+town to practise these arts upon each other. Theft also may be said to
+be encouraged, in some degree; for, like the ancient Spartans, parents
+praise the spirit and ingenuity of the junior branches of the community
+who pilfer articles of trifling value from their neighbours, without
+being detected in the act.
+
+The females set off their charms to the best advantage, by staining
+their hair, teeth, hands, and feet, in a similar manner to that of the
+widow Zuma, which has already been described. This practice, which is
+common to all ranks, and without adhering to which beauty cannot exist
+in their eyes, in all probability is derived from the Moors or Saracens,
+many of whose habits were copied by the natives at the time of their
+irruption into the country, and still maintain the ascendancy which they
+at first assumed. The more glaring the colour of the dye on the persons
+of the _fair_ sex, the more fascinating is the object in the eyes of the
+men of Coulfo—hence the pains every young woman takes to attract the
+admiration and win the love of her male companion by bright blue hair,
+red teeth, yellow hands, &c.; but above all, by keeping her body supple
+and yielding by the use of red clay. It is hardly possible to conceive
+the jealousies, and the thousand other afflicting passions that spring
+up in the breast of a lady, if the person of another excels her own in
+brilliancy of colouring. I have seen the poor things shed floods of
+tears on this account; and on one occasion, in particular, was greatly
+moved at observing a girl of our landlady’s acquaintance sighing and
+sobbing in a corner of our room, because _Nuggree_, her lover, had told
+her a few minutes before, that her teeth were not quite of so bright a
+red as those of her female companion!
+
+Whilst we remained at Coulfo, a messenger from our friend, the king of
+Boussa, arrived with a present of a beautiful little mare for my master,
+accompanied by a female slave, who brought butter and rice from the
+Queen to Captain Clapperton and myself. His majesty had desired the man
+to caution us against partaking of any food that might be sent from the
+female relatives of the usurper of Nyffé, it being their avowed
+intention to poison us by that means. This information, joined with
+other circumstances, rendered us infinitely more suspicious than we had
+previously been, and obliged us to use greater caution in accepting
+presents of provisions from doubtful quarters. From that time it was our
+usual custom to interrogate the individual bringing butter, &c. and if
+he evinced the least reluctance to answer our questions, or betrayed the
+slightest symptoms of fear or timidity in our presence, he was compelled
+to eat part of the suspected articles himself, and in case of refusal,
+dismissed with a severe whipping, and his presents thrown away. We found
+this plan extremely serviceable to us, if we might be allowed to judge
+from the hasty retreat of more than one of these good-natured
+individuals.
+
+The new moon, to catch a glimpse of which every eye in Coulfo was on the
+stretch, was seen on Tuesday the 8th of May, and her first appearance
+welcomed by a flourish of trumpets from the inhabitants.[3] This
+concluded the fast of the Rhamadan; and the following day was kept as a
+holiday for feasting and rejoicing by every individual in the place,
+amongst all classes, and of every sect and party,—thousands of both
+sexes from the neighbouring towns and villages flocking into it, in
+order to participate in the festivities and amusements of the occasion.
+Men and boys, old women and young maidens, slave and free, Mahommedan
+and Pagan, forgot all distinctions of rank, and difference in age and
+modes of worship,—and joining in the song and the dance, drank palm-wine
+and _booza_ together, and before the morning was well over, all hands
+became comfortably drunk. Groups of persons might be seen in the
+afternoon, rambling from one end of the town to the other, dancing,
+capering, tumbling, and hallooing, some reeling to and fro, scarcely
+able to stand, others insensible from excessive intoxication; some flung
+into the river by their boisterous companions, and dragged out again
+half drowned; some smiting their breasts, and calling upon the name of
+the Prophet; others hurrying about in every direction; fighting,
+praying, laughing, weeping; but all, from the governor and his ladies to
+the meanest bondmen and slaves,—all drunk in a greater or less degree.
+
+It was now inexpressibly—insufferably hot; not a single zephyr panted
+upon the motionless trees, and the intensity of the sun’s rays
+threatened to set fire to the tenantless huts of the inhabitants. About
+five or six o’clock a sultry haze obscured the firmament, which
+dispersing some time afterwards, a solemn, fearful calm succeeded, and
+continued for an hour or two, the people still enjoying their noisy
+revelry, and loud bursts of merriment resounding from every quarter of
+the town. We, apprehensive of what was to come after, kept our eyes
+intently fixed on the eastern horizon, and at length espied a small dark
+cloud slowly rising from that quarter of the heavens. Immediately after
+the appearance of this object, faint flashes of lightning, and distant
+peals of thunder following in rapid succession, convinced us that a
+tornado was approaching. The people at last understanding these
+symptoms, all was hurry, bustle, and confusion, in a moment—the music
+and dancing suddenly ceased—the drunken became sober—a deep, wild,
+thrilling cry was raised by the women, and answered by screams of
+affright from the children and young persons. Meanwhile, the peals of
+thunder became infinitely louder and more appalling, and the lightning
+more intensely vivid than before: the clouds in the east gradually
+rolling towards the zenith in denser and heavier masses, a large portion
+of the heavens was presently clothed in almost midnight darkness, when
+the western horizon suddenly opened, and a sea of liquid fire streaming
+from that direction, added a sterner and yet more dreadful grandeur to
+the firmament, exposing by its yellowish glare all the horrors and
+blackness of the scene. The sable curtain that overhung our heads, was
+rent asunder shortly after with a frightful explosion, causing the earth
+to tremble and shake as if the Almighty had set his foot upon the world,
+and reproached the people for their wickedness; while the shuddering
+war-cry, and the tumult and wailings of the multitude, mingling with the
+hollow blast of the tempest, produced on us an indescribable effect, and
+awoke in me an exalted, but painful and tremulous emotion of soul, that
+had nearly overpowered me.
+
+To increase the consternation that was depicted on every countenance,
+the town of _Balì_, containing eleven hundred houses, and situated about
+half a mile from Coulfo, was set on fire by the lightning; and the
+piercing cries of its terrified inhabitants floating dismally into the
+latter town, were re-echoed by thousands of human voices, which produced
+a concert of melancholy sounds, that caused even the domestic animals to
+shrink with fear.
+
+The hurricane and rain at length ceased, the noise of the people was
+hushed into silence, and the tempestuous elements sank from horrid
+sublimity into their previous state of awful repose. I have witnessed
+many tornados in other parts of the globe;
+
+
+  “But never till that night, never till then,
+
+   Did I go through a tempest dropping fire.”
+
+
+Next morning I took a walk through the town, and in the country in its
+vicinity: the air, as it generally is after such visitations, was
+delightfully fresh and pleasant, but the earth was covered with
+afflicting proofs of the tremendous power of the storm; superb trees,
+through the trunks of which, if scooped out, a coach might easily pass,
+were torn up by the roots, and their gigantic branches shivered into
+splinters; whilst others were indeed standing, but scathed and blackened
+from the effects of the lightning, and entirely stripped of their
+verdant foliage. Fragments and roofs of huts, many of them yet
+smouldering, were scattered in every direction; and here and there the
+dead body of a bird or beast, which had perished the preceding night,
+might be met with.
+
+The destitute inhabitants of Balì came to Coulfo, the day after their
+town had been reduced to ashes, to tell their simple tale of distress,
+and solicit the assistance of their more favoured neighbours. I was
+pleased to see their story listened to with tears, and their sorrowful
+condition ameliorated, with a benevolence and zeal that effectually
+covered the bad qualities of the people of Coulfo, and made one forget
+for a moment that they possessed any. In a conversation with one of the
+sufferers in the ill-fated town, I learned that several mothers had
+perished in the flames, while in the act of escaping from them with
+their tender offspring slung to their backs; and it was supposed that
+many of the male sex had shared in the like calamity, as they were
+missing, and no intelligence whatever had transpired respecting them.
+One individual, bowed down with years, had snatched up in his arms a
+little boy who was crossing his path, screaming with terror; but, just
+as he had reached the outskirts of the burning town, and was
+congratulating himself on his good fortune, in having preserved his own
+and the child’s life so unexpectedly, a moving mass of fire, whirled by
+the wind, suddenly fell upon him, and both he and his charge were
+scorched to death, in sight of their sorrowing relatives.
+
+The town of Balì soon rose from its ruins, and the people, by their
+merriment and vivacity, seemed to forget, a month or two afterwards,
+that any such calamity had befallen it.
+
+The country for miles round Coulfo is studded with walled towns, open
+villages, and clusters of houses; and so jealous are the inhabitants of
+one of these places of the superiority, imaginary or real, whether as
+regards personal bravery or success in slave-catching, of another, that,
+like the natives of rival parishes in Cornwall, before the introduction
+of Methodism into that county, or the different sects and orders which
+agitate Ireland at the present time, formally challenge each other, and
+meet by appointment to try the prowess and superiority of their
+respective parties. On such occasions, the combatants arm themselves
+with bludgeons, bows and arrows, and spears; and the conflict is, in
+almost every instance, prosecuted with the bitterness and animosity of
+the most ruthless savages, frequently terminating in the death or
+capture of numbers of each party, when the latter are uniformly sold
+into slavery. Just at the period of our arrival at Coulfo, the
+inhabitants of the walled town of Koofoo, situated but a short distance
+from the former place, having captured and sold, contrary to custom, the
+wife of a man belonging to a neighbouring village, who was supposed to
+have been slain in one of these engagements, a mutual system of
+retaliation and petty warfare was the consequence, which had embroiled
+all the country in domestic dissensions; and their war-cry, of all
+sounds, next to their death-yell, the most truly terrific, could be
+distinctly heard at our lodgings in Coulfo every evening. A person
+connected with either of the disturbed towns could not venture out
+alone, or unarmed, without exposing himself to be shot at or pierced by
+his inveterate antagonists, who made it a constant practice to prowl
+about the country, and spring, tiger-like, upon any unsuspecting victim
+whom pleasure or business had induced to quit the boundaries of his
+native village. These intestine commotions, united to the formidable
+civil war that was desolating the kingdom of Nyffé, had caused the minds
+of the people to be in a perpetual state of fermentation and alarm,
+occasioning their angry and incited passions to have the ascendancy over
+their milder virtues; and to this cause is attributable, more than to
+any other, the absence of that kindness and hospitality, amongst the
+natives generally, which were so cheerfully bestowed upon us in the less
+civilized kingdoms of Yariba and Borghoo,—although even the people of
+Nyffé were by no means destitute of the gentle charities of life.
+
+The severe and continued indisposition that both my master and myself
+experienced, obliged us to remain in the city of Coulfo six or seven
+weeks; but, getting better at the termination of that period, we
+departed on the nineteenth of June, and passing through Koofoo, where we
+slept, and several other villages, encamped outside the walled town of
+Bullabulla on the 21st of the same month. At that place I was attacked
+with dysentery, a truly frightful disorder, that causes hope to die
+within the patient, and puts him altogether out of the love of life. The
+pain it occasioned me was so great, and its effects so distressing, that
+I was unable to keep a regular journal of occurrences until my arrival
+at Kano. On the road to that city my sufferings were too acute to be
+described; and it was not unusual for me to lag behind the rest of the
+party, and, dismounting from my horse, to roll myself in the dust, in
+the hope of relieving the agony of the moment, where I remained panting
+on the naked earth, till my master, alarmed at my long absence, would
+light large fires, by the smoke of which I was directed to his resting-
+place. On entering the tent, it was my custom, without uttering a word,
+to fling myself on a mat, and, embracing my pillow,[4] to sleep, or
+rather _endeavour_ to sleep till morning. By this means I acquired a
+habit of groaning in my slumbers, of which I could not completely divest
+myself, even for some months after my return to England. Whenever we
+came to a stream which was too deep to ford, and unfurnished with a
+ferry-boat, being too weak myself to swim, my generous master used to
+take me on his shoulders, and, oftentimes at the imminent risk of his
+own life, carry me in safety to the opposite bank.
+
+We journeyed over a wooded and partially cultivated country, through
+several populous walled towns and open villages, and arrived at Guâri,
+in Kashna, on Monday the 3d of July.
+
+Leaving that place on the following Friday we continued our course, and
+entered the western gate of Zaria, a considerable Falatah town, and the
+capital of the province of Zeg Zeg, on Monday the 10th.
+
+The country to the eastward of the town was unspeakably fine, and almost
+clear of wood; and looked as fresh and beautiful as the richest parts of
+England in the summer months. Plantations of rice and cotton; fields of
+undulating corn; meadows covered with a lovely verdure; and gentle
+slopes with herds and flocks grazing and browzing on them, looked as
+picturesque and rural as any landscape I had beheld in my own, or indeed
+any other country.
+
+We remained at Zaria a week, when we again set out; and traversing a
+country charmingly diversified by hills and dales, streamlets of water,
+groves of superb trees peopled with birds of the gayest plumage, and
+enclosures of Indian corn, yams, indigo, the cotton plant, wheat,
+millet, &c. we arrived at Kano on Thursday the 20th of July.
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER VII.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+Residence at Kano — Captain Clapperton leaves for Soccatoo — History of
+Pasko, the Houssa Interpreter — Pasko’s robberies and confinement —
+Return of the Captain with the Godado, after an ineffectual attempt to
+reach Soccatoo — His second departure from Kano — His Letters.
+
+
+We were mortified beyond measure to learn of Hat Sallah, my master’s
+agent on the former journey, that the Bornouese and Falatahs were at
+war, and in consequence thereof that all communication between the two
+kingdoms had been effectually cut off. On hearing of our arrival, the
+countenances of the Arabs in the city brightened up; for they fancied
+that we should be the means of bringing about a permanent peace between
+the belligerents, the war having occasioned the ruin of several of them,
+and threatened the prosperity of the whole.
+
+I had received instructions from Captain Clapperton to remain in Kano
+with the baggage, whilst he undertook a journey to Soccatoo and back, it
+being unnecessary to have the goods conveyed so far out of the road to
+Bornou. Therefore on Thursday the 24th of July, every arrangement having
+been previously made, my master came to bid me adieu, and give me final
+instructions relative to proceeding to Bornou and Tripoli, in case of
+his death, or of any unforeseen accident that might befall him. On this
+occasion each of us was much moved, and we parted with that unaffected
+sorrow which the circumstances in which we were placed were so eminently
+calculated to call forth. Our little party had left their native country
+full of hope and enterprising spirit, and we had seen them sicken and
+die by our sides without being in a condition to mitigate their
+sufferings, or “smooth down their lonely pillow.” Like the characters in
+Mozart’s “Farewell,” they had dropped one by one; and they were buried
+in a strange land, far from the graves of their fathers, with scarce a
+memento to point out the solitary spot. These were my thoughts at the
+moment of separation from my valued master, whom I may justly style the
+preserver of my life. I knew that it was by no means unlikely we might
+never meet again, and we were well assured, that in the event of our
+dissolutions when apart, no one could be found to close our eyes, still
+less to perform the rites of Christian burial over our remains. My
+master therefore left me with emotion. For my own part, I was yet, if
+possible, more sensibly agitated; I was ill with dysentery at the time,
+_very_ ill; and throwing myself on my couch as soon as the Captain was
+out of sight, I did not arise from it again for twenty-four hours.
+
+Kano is one of the most important and considerable cities in Soudan, and
+is a general mart for all sorts of merchandize. The indigo, manufactured
+by the inhabitants, has the reputation of producing a richer and more
+permanent dye than is to be met with in any other part of Africa
+whatever, and is on this account in very high estimation with all
+classes of people. The population of the town, on a rough computation,
+probably exceeds forty thousand souls, the major part of whom are
+slaves, but treated with kindness and forbearance by their masters.
+Arabs and Moors resort thither from the Barbary States, for the purposes
+of trade, and their goods realise an immense profit in the market,
+remunerating them with a rapid fortune. The wall of the city, thirty
+feet in height, and of proportionable thickness, encompasses a space of
+nearly ten English miles; but upwards of two-thirds of the ground
+enclosed is taken up with morasses, plantations, and gardens, the
+dwelling of the inhabitants occupying the remaining portion. The houses
+are built in a square form, after the Moorish fashion, of flat roofs
+covered with hardened clay interlaced with palm leaves; and are on the
+whole roomy and comfortable abodes.
+
+The air of Kano is close and insalubrious, and rendered yet more
+unwholesome, in consequence of the number of stagnant pools of water,
+partly filled with putrifying animal and vegetable substances, which are
+tolerated in the town. A most disagreeable odour is exhaled by this
+means; while a large morass intersecting the city from east to west,
+into which the filth of the inhabitants is indiscriminately emptied,
+tends still further towards its general unhealthiness. The dead bodies
+of slaves are frequently cast into this morass, exposed to the action of
+the air or visits of birds of prey; and it is truly shocking to observe
+their mangled members in a state of decomposition, and their fleshless
+bones bleaching in the sun in the very heart of the town.
+
+This painful and disgusting spectacle I was oftentimes obliged to be a
+witness to, a week rarely passing without one or more of these
+unregretted corpses being flung into the common receptacle, and left to
+the gaze of the people, amongst whom all sense of delicacy in this
+respect seemed to have been stifled by gross familiarity with this
+revolting custom; by reason of this the inhabitants pass by the decaying
+bodies of their fellow creatures with no greater symptoms of repugnance
+than if they had been the remains of their own domestic animals.
+
+I had scarcely been in Kano a fortnight, when Pasko, our Houssa
+interpreter, absconded with a few articles of trifling value, and after
+a diligent and persevering search of three days, he was found concealed
+under a heap of yams, in the house of the mother to a female he had
+recently married. He was accompanied to our house by his better half,
+sobbing all the way, who begged me, with much earnestness, to forgive
+her husband for the offence he had been guilty of, which I consented to
+do, but not till after he had received a severe scolding, and promised
+never again to perpetrate a crime of a similar nature against me or any
+one else.
+
+As this old man’s history may not be altogether uninteresting, inasmuch
+as it shows, in a lively point of view, the ridiculous superstitions of
+his countrymen, imbibed in their infant years, which no circumstance or
+change of scene in their after life can wholly eradicate, I hope I may
+be excused for giving a short account of his adventures previously to
+his being engaged in the African mission, as repeated solemnly to me
+several times from his own lips, and after that period till his arrival
+with us at Kano, drawn from personal observation.
+
+Pasko’s native name was _Abbu Becr_, and although this is without doubt
+a Mohammedan appellation, he knew nothing more of Islamism than its
+name, being in reality a Pagan. He was born in the district of Goober,
+and was brother to the reigning prince of that country, who at the
+period of the subjugation of the neighbouring provinces to the yoke of
+Danfodio, Bello’s father, ridiculed that wily conqueror’s pretensions to
+sanctity, and rose with his people to dispute his further advances into
+Houssa. In an engagement with the Falatahs, in which Pasko distinguished
+himself, his brother was suddenly metamorphosed into a white elephant!
+and as soon as he was conscious of his melancholy change, rushed into
+the thickest of the fight, trampling to death upwards of two hundred of
+his adversaries, who were panic-struck at the unexpected appearance of
+so formidable an animal amongst them; but rallying a short time
+afterwards, they winged their arrows so effectually, that the body of
+the enormous beast became like that of a porcupine, being literally
+covered with them; and this fact, joined to his extraordinary exertions
+and loss of blood, made the intrepid elephant quit the field of battle.
+Lifting up Pasko, therefore, from the ground with his proboscis, he
+repaired to a neighbouring forest, and dropping his charge, was
+transfixed, like Lot’s wife to the spot, by the same invisible power
+that had been so instrumental in bringing about his previous alteration
+of form and nature. Here he stood, without the power of stirring an
+inch, or of moving a limb, and although Pasko’s bitter lamentations were
+heard at a considerable distance, the inexorable deity was deaf to these
+violent bursts of sorrow; but his fraternal tenderness would not suffer
+Pasko to leave the place till he had the felicity of beholding trees and
+shrubs grow round the body of the petrified elephant; which third
+miracle took place about three hours after the former ones, and
+completely hid the transformed from the most prying curiosity!
+
+The remainder of Pasko’s history is entitled to a greater share of
+credence. A year or two subsequent to the above singular occurrence, as
+Pasko was dancing by the light of the moon, with several of his
+companions, he was kidnapped by a marauding party of Falatahs, and sold
+to a Gonja trader. This man not treating him with the kindness he
+expected, to be revenged Pasko took the liberty of robbing him of all
+his goods, and decamping in the night; he was, however, apprehended the
+next evening, in a state of intoxication, dancing with a dozen females,
+and taken back to his master, who re-sold him to a native of Ashantee.
+By this master he was taken considerable notice of, and sent, along with
+many others, to his own country (Ashantee); but no great while after his
+arrival thither he committed a second serious misdemeanour, for which
+offence he was driven to the sea-side, and sold to the master of a
+Portuguese schooner, then lying at Whydah. On her voyage to Bahia, the
+vessel was captured by an English sloop of war, and Pasko was liberated;
+but consented to remain with the British, and serve as an ordinary
+seaman. He was, however, taken from his employment by Mr. Belzoni, in
+order to accompany him in his attempt to reach Tombuctoo by way of Fez;
+but that enterprizing traveller dying of dysentery, Pasko returned to
+his duties in the British navy, where he remained till engaged by
+Captain Clapperton, in the joint capacity of servant to Captain Pearce,
+and general interpreter to the mission.
+
+Pasko was no more than five feet in height, with hands and arms
+disproportionately long: his face was open and expressive, if a mouth
+extending literally from ear to ear can impart an enviable cast of
+feature to the human countenance; and his cheek was furrowed with the
+tatto mark of the Houssa nation (eight deep scars, inflicted by a rude
+instrument during boyhood). His nose was excessively broad and flat, and
+his lips resembled, as nearly as possible, the famous German sausage
+ornamented; and these were, with large teeth, of pearly whiteness, which
+were generally exposed by a perpetual grin playing upon his countenance.
+But there was an undefinable expression of low cunning in his dark,
+wandering eye, and an habitual restlessness in his manner which induced
+one to suspect that there was more of evil in him than he was willing
+should be detected, and which he strove to disguise under forced
+stupidity and carelessness which in reality did not belong to his
+disposition. It is somewhat odd that Pasko, plain as his appearance most
+undoubtedly was, should have entertained the strange notion that almost
+every female who saw him, of whatever hue, nation, or religion she might
+be, could not help falling in love with him at first sight, imagining
+that his intellectual physiognomy possessed some peculiar attraction—an
+oil of rhodium,—which fascinated all beholders. Hence, secure of the
+affections of the softer sex, his behaviour to them was not always
+graced by that studied civility, and agreeableness of manner, which are
+the characteristics of most gallants; what others were obliged to
+entreat and sigh for as a favour, Pasko demanded as a right, and
+enforced his pretensions with an eloquence so commanding, that according
+to his own asseverations at least, his advances were never repelled by
+coldness or disdain. At the period of his engaging himself with the
+African mission, he might have been about sixty years of age, but looked
+considerably older; and the above unaccountable feeling of his had lost
+none of its intensity at so advanced a period of life. Like Aaron’s rod,
+it swallowed up every other passion; and as will be seen by the numerous
+wives with whom he was accommodated, and the scrapes he fell into by
+their means, Pasko subscribed, with all his heart, to the anathema of
+the Poet:
+
+
+  “Curse on all laws save those which _Love_ has made!”
+
+
+At Badagry, one of the wives of Adólee, the king, fell desperately in
+love with the self-enamoured Pasko, and strove to awaken his sensibility
+by a present of a bottle of rum; but the latter being observed sneaking
+near the king’s house at unseasonable hours, was threatened with death
+if he attempted to display his alluring accomplishments before the
+illustrious female inmates, to the infinite uneasiness of his majesty’s
+mind. Pasko, with whom foolhardiness was in no very high esteem, went
+off in great dudgeon, and never repeated his visit to the seraglio,
+confining himself within doors as much as possible. This seclusion,
+however, could not screen him from the resentment of the slighted lady,
+for as he was standing outside our house one day, a stone, flung with
+great force from her own _fair_ hand, struck Pasko so violent a blow on
+the breast, that it completely ejected every spark of tenderness he
+might have entertained for her, and he vowed to embrace the earliest
+opportunity of being revenged. At Jannah he forgot his disappointment in
+the endearing expressions lavished upon his extraordinary beauty by a
+girl of that place, whom he married agreeably to the custom of the
+country, and took with him to Katunga, in Yariba. The attachment seemed
+to be reciprocal for some time; and Pasko was so bound up in the
+blandishments of his spouse, that he was loth to expose her delicate
+person to the dangers of a journey to Bornou, and proposed remaining in
+that city, instead of continuing in the service of the mission; his
+better half relishing the proposal extremely well, and seconding it with
+all the weight of her influence. Aspiring, however, to the society of
+the wives of his majesty of Katunga, and those of his great men, Pasko’s
+rib fell into the temptation of tippling and carousing with them at all
+seasons, and indulged in this disgraceful propensity to so great an
+excess, that she rarely returned to the arms of her impatient husband in
+a sober state; and was, moreover, frequently seen in the company of
+younger men than he. All this at length reaching the ears of Captain
+Clapperton, she was dismissed his service, but retaken at the piteous
+lamentations and entreaties of Pasko, who declared, blubbering all the
+while, that he could not survive her loss, so strongly was she linked to
+him by the silken bands of love! The amiable lady, nevertheless, the
+morning before our departure from Katunga, rising from the couch of her
+unsuspecting companion, decamped with the coral beads and other trinkets
+he had received of Mrs. Belzoni whilst in England, and was never seen or
+heard of after. Pasko consoled himself with the reflection that the
+woman was certainly deranged, or she never could have treated a person
+of his consideration so unhandsomely!
+
+At Wow Wow he buried all his griefs and vexations in the embraces of a
+fresh wife he had received of the generous Zuma; but it being unlawful
+to accept such a present without having first obtained the consent of
+the king, Mohammed compelled him to return the dear object of his
+affections, much against his own inclination, and the unfortunate lover
+determined not to marry again in a hurry. A young woman in Kano however
+overturned his resolution, and he left me in the manner which has
+already been related. Pasko never troubled his head much about religious
+matters, adopting the prevailing opinions about them in the various
+countries through which he might happen to pass: thus, he was a
+Christian in England, a Pagan in Yariba and Borghoo, and a Mohammedan in
+the Falatah empire; although the superstitious notions of his childhood
+clung like instinct to his manhood and declining years, evidently
+disposing him to lean towards Paganism, as the best and most convenient
+doctrine with which he was acquainted.
+
+My master unexpectedly returned to Kano in September, accompanied by the
+Godado (prime minister of sultan Bello) and several Falatahs of less
+consequence, the road to Soccatoo having been found impassable by reason
+of the rain that had fallen. After remaining with me three or four days,
+Captain Clapperton left the city a second time, and entered the capital
+of Houssa in safety, on Thursday the 19th of October.
+
+On the night of the 1st of November Pasko eloped with his Kano wife,
+taking with him six pairs of scissors and a pistol. On missing him next
+morning, I made an inquiry after him in the city, but no one could give
+me the least account of the fugitive, till a person informed me of his
+having met him with a woman at an early hour on the road to Zeg Zeg. As
+soon as this information was communicated to me, I secured the baggage
+in an apartment of our house, and took the key to Hat Sallah, with a
+request that he would suffer no one to enter it till my return. Although
+I was by no means recovered from the painful illness which had for so
+long a time afflicted me, I immediately mounted my horse, and desiring
+Abdalfitha, one of our Arab servants to accompany me on another, took
+the road to Quorra, a large town in Zeg Zeg, and travelled with unusual
+speed. A journey of four days brought us to Roma, on entering which town
+we were told that Pasko had just before quitted it; but our horses being
+almost knocked up, we could proceed no further on that day, by reason
+whereof we were obliged to remain there till the following morning.
+
+We had not been in the place, however, more than an hour, when some of
+the inhabitants came with the news that they had seen Pasko in a woman’s
+house near the market-place; and as soon as I had ascertained that this
+was actually the case, I hired a dozen stout men to watch at the gates,
+and apprehend him if he attempted to escape from the town. Meanwhile,
+being exhausted myself with the violent exercise I had been necessitated
+to take, I ordered Abdulfitha to proceed to the place of his
+concealment, and endeavour to secure the criminal, which he succeeded in
+doing without even the shadow of opposition on Pasko’s part, and
+presently after brought him to me. The old fellow, with the most
+unconcerned air imaginable, wondered I had taken so much pains on his
+account, affirming that he had taken a jaunt into the country for a day
+or two, in order to amuse himself by shooting a few pigeons for my use,
+for he felt for me in my long indisposition! and that it was his
+intention to return to Kano as soon as he had accomplished his
+charitable purpose. His wife, not liking this species of enjoyment, had
+left him the preceding day, and had gone back to her mother’s house.
+Pasko, having made this ingenious defence, I gave him a severe lecture
+for having left Kano without my knowledge or consent; but as he showed
+symptoms of contrition, and promising solemnly to behave with more
+circumspection for the future, I cheerfully forgave him; and we retired
+to rest.
+
+On our return we halted at a small village about twelve miles from Kano,
+where we slept. In the night, Pasko, watching a favorable opportunity,
+stole unobserved out of the hut with all my money, which I had
+concealed, for its better security, in my stocking, together with my
+guns, pistols, and in fact every thing belonging to me, with the
+exception of the horse. The manner in which the robbery was discovered
+was as follows:—About two o’clock in the morning, being thirsty, I
+called on Pasko several times to fetch me a little water, but receiving
+no answer, I arose, and approaching the mat on which he had lain down
+the preceding evening, caught hold of what I conceived to be his head,
+and shook it violently. Still receiving no answer, I became alarmed, and
+instantly striking a light, I found, not Pasko’s corpse stretched on the
+mat as I expected, but a slaughtered sheep! which had been sent me from
+the chief of the town, in its stead, and which the artful old scoundrel
+had placed in that position, enveloping the head of the animal in one of
+my woollen caps, for the purpose of deceiving me! as Abdulfitha had been
+in the habit of laying his hand on Pasko’s head at intervals during the
+night, in order to ascertain that all was right. The thief had stripped
+me almost naked; but wrapping a blanket round my person, I rode hastily
+with Abdulfitha, by star-light, to Kano, and arrived there early in the
+morning. As soon as Hat Sallah had arisen, I simply told him how I had
+been served, when he immediately sent several individuals in quest of
+the robber, who returned with him two days after. This was enjoyment
+with a vengeance; so being determined he should take no more rural
+excursions, I ordered the prisoner to be heavily ironed, and confined in
+the common dungeon till the return of the governor of Kano from a town
+called Fanisoe: this took place two or three days only before my
+departure, and on the same day Pasko being examined by his excellency,
+and having taken an oath in his presence that he would not again desert
+me till the arrival of Captain Clapperton from Soccatoo, he was set at
+large in the city.
+
+I saw a slave in Kano whose fore teeth were cut and pointed, a custom I
+thought peculiar to the coast, and some of the islands in the South
+Seas. The man’s appearance was most ferocious; and so sullen and
+reserved was he, that he refused to answer any interrogations that were
+put to him, although I was inclined to believe that he had perpetrated
+some flagrant crime, as he was so far on his way to Badagry, whither he
+would not have been sent, if his character were not of the very worst
+description.
+
+One day, as I was walking to the governor’s house, I espied a white man
+at some distance; I ran after him as fast as my strength would permit
+me, and thought at first he was an apparition; but on approaching within
+a few yards, and the man suddenly stopping, I immediately perceived that
+he was a leper. His head, neck, and shoulders were bared, and the skin,
+covered with a thick scurf, had a ghastly and cadaverous appearance.
+When he turned to look at me, I could not forbear shuddering, and felt
+so peculiar a sensation creep through my frame, that I willingly laid
+hold of a date tree growing near the spot, in order to keep myself in an
+erect position. The wool, nose, and lips, were entirely negro, and when
+these were contrasted with his pale, diseased skin, the leper scarcely
+maintained the appearance of a human being. We had seen a woman in
+Katunga afflicted with a similar loathsome malady; but its effects in
+the latter instance were not nearly so visibly disgusting. Both the
+unhappy individuals were vagrants, and shunned, like the lazars of
+Italy, by their fellow-creatures. Their life must, indeed, have been a
+burden to them; for the disease, preying upon their vitals, threatened
+to terminate their wretched career very speedily; and to add to their
+sorrows, they had no where to lay their heads.
+
+I had purchased a young ostrich of a Tuarick, who had brought it from
+the desert, shortly after our arrival at Kano, and the animal soon
+became so tame, that it would follow me like a dog. In two months after
+I had it in my possession it grew amazingly, and I was in hopes of
+bringing it to England with me; but an envious Arab in the city, whose
+inveterate dislike to every thing belonging to the Christians he took no
+pains to conceal, cut off its head, and artfully attributed it to
+accident. Meeting the fellow in the street a short time afterwards, I
+belaboured his sides so effectually with a stout stick which I held in
+my hand, that he ran off bellowing with a complaint to the governor,
+who, after listening patiently to his story, observed, with a very
+significant look, that he was quite sure the drubbing he had received
+must have been inflicted _by accident_, and dismissed the malicious Arab
+without granting the redress he sought.
+
+A wealthy Nyffé man had in his possession, in Kano, two individuals,
+male and female, so excessively small, that although they were nearly
+thirty years of age, their height did not exceed forty inches. Each of
+them had been brought from a place called Goorma, and they had left
+their native country at a very early period of life; insomuch, that they
+had no recollection of their parents, or of any thing connected with the
+manners and customs of their countrymen. None but particular friends of
+the proprietor were allowed to see these human beings in miniature, and
+even they were introduced only at particular seasons. For my part, I
+often visited them, and their innocent playful manners greatly diverted
+me. They were extremely chatty and good-tempered, and their agility was
+as remarkable as their size was diminutive. I offered to purchase them;
+but not altogether admiring my white skin, they refused to quit the
+hospitable roof of their owner, who candidly acknowledged that he was so
+much attached to the dwarfs, that he had resolved never to force their
+inclinations to a measure they disliked in their hearts.
+
+When I was able, I used, during my stay at Kano, to collect plants,
+shrubs, insects, &c. and stuff any birds that I might happen to shoot,
+if I fancied there was any thing peculiar or strange in their
+appearance. By this means I soon acquired a great variety of beautiful
+insects, which, with the birds and plants, I attempted to bring to
+England with me; but the portmanteau in which they were placed having
+been frequently wetted on my return to the coast, they were all so
+completely spoiled, that I was obliged to throw them away.
+
+On the 12th of November I had the happiness of receiving the following
+letter from my master, dated Soccatoo, Tuesday, October 26, 1826:—
+
+
+   “DEAR RICHARD,
+
+“I arrived here on Thursday, after a most fatiguing and harassing
+journey. I find the city in much the same state as on my former visit.
+They say it has been burnt by the rebels of Goober, but I have observed
+no traces of a recent conflagration, and therefore suspect the rumour to
+be unfounded. Sultan Bello has been investing Coonia, the capital of
+Goober, with a large but irregular army. I visited him in his camp
+previously to my arrival here. He appeared glad to see me, and welcomed
+me to his country with the utmost cordiality. He is now at Magaria,
+anticipating an attack from the rebel chief, but is expected here
+shortly. The Arabs have already begun their underhand and deceitful
+practices, by tampering with Mohammed [an Arab servant], and insinuating
+the injury he would do his soul by serving an enemy to their faith. The
+man hardly knows how to act; on the one hand he dreads the resentment of
+his namesake the Prophet; and on the other, if he quits my service, he
+must necessarily throw himself upon the good-nature of his rascally
+countrymen, who indeed make golden promises, but whose filthy
+niggardliness is proverbial, even amongst the Falatahs. I shall
+certainly feel his loss severely, if Mohammed follows their advice, as I
+have no one in whom I can repose so much confidence as himself; but I
+have left it entirely to his own choice, either to go or stay. I have
+just had a conversation with a messenger, arrived within these few
+minutes from Bello and the Godado; he tells me the rebels are hourly
+expected near Magaria, and of his sovereign’s wish for me to make all
+haste to him, as he is utterly unconscious how long he may be detained
+with his army. For the purpose of assisting me on my journey, the Sultan
+has sent me two camels and a horse; and most likely I shall leave this
+city to-morrow or next day.
+
+“It is most violently hot here. I fancy the weather has already made
+some impression on my health, for I feel now and then a little feverish
+and unwell. I sincerely wish it may not increase upon me. Heaven knows I
+have had enough of sickness since I first set my foot on African soil;
+and it would be disheartening indeed if I should be laid up at this
+particular time. Let me hope your health is improved since I saw you. It
+would grieve me exceedingly to hear an unfavourable account of it; and I
+would suggest that you keep both mind and body as much employed as
+possible. By right you should have no idle moments. I hope you ride out
+every day, and amuse yourself with shooting and stuffing birds: this
+will tend to keep you in good health and spirits. Apply your mind
+strictly to the duties of religion; rely firmly on the mercy and
+assistance of Heaven; for in all your difficulties and distress, this
+alone will bear you up like a man, and render you superior to
+misfortune.
+
+“I pray God to bless you; and believe me to be
+
+                                   “Your sincere friend and master,
+
+                                                    “HUGH CLAPPERTON.”
+
+“_Rd. Lander, Kano._”
+
+
+Towards the latter end of November, I received a second letter from
+Capt. Clapperton, dated Soccatoo, November 7th, 1826. The following is a
+copy of it:—
+
+
+  “DEAR RICHARD,
+
+   “I returned from Magaria yesterday: the Sultan received his present
+with rapture; nor did the godado appear much less pleased with his. I
+enjoy, thank God, tolerable health, with the exception of being
+afflicted at times with a sharp pain in my side, which annoys me
+greatly; but I hope it will soon wear off. The Sultan does not seem in
+the least willing for me to visit Bornou, by reason of the war; but I
+shall do all in my power to overturn his unjust prejudices. He fancies,
+no doubt, the present intended for the Sheikh consists of warlike
+stores; at least, I am pretty confident my kind friends the Arabs have
+intimated as much to him. Yet I am infinitely pleased to learn that
+Bello does not altogether relish their counsel, and that he judges
+pretty correctly of the falsehood and deceit they have so often
+practised to serve their own ends.
+
+“If the road to Bornou be denied me, I really can’t tell what we shall
+do, or how we shall get home. It is certain if we pursue a different
+route, my business will be incomplete, and of all things this lies
+nearest my heart. It is not likely, however, I shall be kept in suspense
+a great while longer, and I shall know with certainty perhaps in a few
+days. I am already heartily tired of this place; and most devoutly wish
+I were with you. I long to turn my face towards our dear country again;
+yet whenever I think calmly of it, as oftentimes I do, a cloud seems to
+hang over the future which saddens me, I know not why, and makes me
+excessively low-spirited. I would cheerfully dissipate all gloomy
+reflections if I could; but they come over one at times when one is
+least capable of resisting their influence, and an unpleasant sensation
+steals insensibly upon the mind, and renders one careless of oneself,
+and regardless of the world.
+
+“My dear Richard, do _you_ endeavour to keep up your spirits. You tell
+me you are ill; I imagine this proceeds more from brooding over your
+misfortunes than any other cause whatever: it is not well to do so; you
+should not suffer despondency and dejection to have the mastery over
+your judgment and resolution. Think of your friends in England, and
+fancy yourself in their little circle; never permit hope to sink so far
+within you, as to say to yourself, ‘I shall never see my country again.’
+Such thoughts, I repeat, should never be indulged; for they are ever
+attended with mischief. Your disorder is, indeed, a peculiarly painful
+one; yet it is one which every European must expect to be visited with
+in this remote region. I have been afflicted with it myself before now,
+and you see I am completely recovered from its effects.
+
+“Let me entreat you, therefore, to hope for the best: it is unmanly to
+repine at any trifling casualty that may befal one, which we are all so
+very apt to do. Above all things, place your confidence in the wisdom of
+the Almighty; let your whole heart and affections rest upon him, for he
+alone is able to support you under the trying sickness that wastes you,
+and conduct you in safety to dear old England. Pray to Heaven night and
+morning, and read the church service as often as you can, particularly
+on the Sabbath; for a firm reliance on the goodness and mercy of the
+Divine Power, will inspire you with confidence, and bear you up with
+cheerfulness and courage, even when all earthly enjoyments fail you. For
+my own part, I am inclined to believe you will soon be well, and that we
+shall shortly see better and happier days. Most likely I shall leave
+this city for Kano the latter part of the week, and surely I need not
+repeat how happy I shall be to see you again.
+
+                                      “Adieu, and believe me
+
+                                   “Your sincere friend and master,
+
+                                                      “H. CLAPPERTON.”
+
+“_Richard Lander, Kano._”
+
+
+The above letter had been delivered to me but two days, when I received
+a message from the governor of Kano to pay him a visit at his house. On
+entering the apartment in which he was seated, he abruptly informed me
+that he had just received a letter from my master, which contained a
+wish for me to come to him immediately with all the baggage. This piece
+of intelligence surprised me not a little, for I had been led to
+believe, from the tenor of his last letter, that, instead of my
+proceeding to Soccatoo, Captain Clapperton must by that time have been
+on the road to Kano. I could not help fancying, however, that something
+of a melancholy nature had taken place, which, from motives of delicacy,
+had been prudently withheld from me, although I was at a loss to
+conjecture of what nature it could be; for it did not occur to me at the
+moment that Bello, who bore a high character for uprightness and
+integrity, could resort to so mean a stratagem, in order to inveigle an
+unprotected stranger into his power, without assigning any reason for
+such unwarrantable conduct.
+
+Two days after this interview (22d November) I received another
+invitation from the governor, on which occasion, after briefly alluding
+to the former conversation, he hinted that it was necessary for me to
+quit the city without delay, naming the 25th as the day most proper for
+my departure. He said he should make my master a present of five _pack_
+bullocks to convey the goods to Soccatoo, and order four men to take
+charge of the animals on the road.
+
+On the 24th I paid my respects to the governor, with whom I was closeted
+considerably more than an hour; and on rising to depart, he shook hands
+heartily with me, saying, with much warmth and feeling, “Good bye,
+‘little Christian,’ God take you safe to Soccatoo.” On going back to my
+house, I found Hat Salah rather impatiently waiting my return; he
+advised me to procure a strong camel by all means, affirming that the
+bullocks of themselves were inadequate for the purpose intended. I
+agreed with him in this particular, and purchased one which the Arab
+recommended for 62,000 cowries.
+
+
+
+
+                             CHAPTER VIII.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+The Author quits Kano to join his master — His illness on the road —
+Anecdotes of the natives, and his reception by them — Pasko’s last
+robbery, and elopement — He is overtaken, and brought back — The Tuarick
+merchants — The Author’s arrival at Soccatoo, the metropolis of the
+Falatah empire — Residence there — Pasko’s dismissal, conduct, and
+marriage.
+
+
+On the 25th of November I left the city of Kano, accompanied by _honest_
+Pasko, who had just been liberated from his confinement, Abdulfitha the
+Arab, and messengers from Bello and the governor of Kano. At one in the
+afternoon our party halted at Zungugwâ; but the camel, in endeavouring
+to enter by one of the narrow gates of the town, unfortunately broke two
+boxes, in which were contained stationery and other articles. This
+accident detained us outside the walls for more than an hour, when the
+men were obliged to take the goods on their heads, and carry them to the
+residence of the chief, at a distance of half a mile from the spot. I
+waited on him myself shortly afterwards, and gave him a pair of
+scissors, fifty needles, and a small paper of cloves, all which pleased
+him highly. The chief then led me into one of his best huts, where he
+told me I might remain till I felt inclined to leave the place, and
+shortly afterwards sent me butter, sour milk, a couple of fine fowls,
+with tuah and corn.
+
+I awoke early in the morning of the 26th, and leaving the hut of the
+hospitable chief, after a ride of six hours, came to Markee, a large,
+though thinly inhabited village, the chief of which, a kind-hearted old
+man, upwards, I should think, of ninety years of age, and withal very
+feeble, was delighted to see me, and testified the pleasure he felt by
+repeatedly shaking hands with me for the space of half an hour; and
+would undoubtedly have pulled off my arm, if I had not expressed myself
+too greatly fatigued to stand so long a time in one place. After a short
+conversation, he conducted me into an inner apartment, and, bidding me
+to sit, took from a calabash which was suspended from the ceiling a
+small box made of skin, round which had been wound, with the greatest
+care, upwards of five hundred yards of thread, which occupied him twenty
+minutes in taking off. This having been done, he showed me four bits of
+tin lying at the bottom of the box, about the size of swan and common
+shot. The old chief then gave me to understand, with much seriousness,
+as well as earnestness of manner, that the little balls I was looking at
+had been given to him by an Arab fifteen years before, who had
+positively affirmed that they were of silver, and possessed of life. The
+larger pieces, the old man continued, were of the masculine, and the
+smaller of the feminine gender; the latter of which would produce young
+at the end of every twelve years, and till the expiration of that period
+were by no means to be looked at!
+
+In order to impart warmth to the balls, he had enveloped them in a
+quantity of cotton wool, and the thread had been tied round the box,
+that the offspring might have no opportunity of escaping! “But,” said
+the hoary-headed chief, with a disappointed air, “though I kept them
+with the utmost care, agreeably to the instructions I had received, for
+twelve years, to my consternation and sorrow, at the end of that period,
+I found that they had made no increase, and I begin to think that they
+never will;” in saying which, the tender-hearted man was so grievously
+affected that he burst into tears. It was with the greatest difficulty
+that I could refrain from laughing aloud in his face; but succeeded at
+length in subduing the strong inclination I had to be merry, and I told
+him, with all the solemnity the occasion required, that the Arab was a
+rogue and had deceived him; that the articles he had so highly valued
+were bits of tin, and not of silver; that they were without life, and,
+therefore, could not infuse the living principle into other inanimate
+substances. I consoled the old gentleman, however, upon the hoax that
+had been so successfully played off upon him, and sympathized with him
+in his sorrow.
+
+His mind soon afterwards became more composed, although at times he
+could not help sobbing audibly; and after answering numerous questions
+put to me about my country, I complained of indisposition, and retired
+to rest.
+
+After spending a sleepless night, I arose unrefreshed at six in the
+morning, and pursuing our journey, passed close to a large Falatah town,
+called Kiowah, in the neighbourhood of which were numerous herds of
+horned cattle grazing. Here, as in other parts of Houssa, the cows are
+mostly white, and the sheep of the same colour, spotted with red and
+black, which occasioned the latter animals to have a very agreeable
+appearance at a distance, and recalled to my memory Jacob’s spotted
+sheep, mentioned in Scripture. In the afternoon we arrived at Guâri, a
+large walled town with an indifferent population. The beasts were unable
+to enter the gate with their loads, by reason of its narrowness, and
+being unwilling for the men to take them into the town on their heads,
+which would have occupied a considerable time—much longer, indeed, than
+my fatigue and illness would allow, I reposed for the night underneath
+the branches of a large tree. On being made acquainted with my arrival,
+the chief paid me a visit, and seating himself by my side, entered most
+familiarly into conversation with me, in the course of which he observed
+that tigers abounded in the neighbourhood, and unless I kept fires
+burning during the whole of the night, my attendants and cattle would in
+all probability be attacked and destroyed by those rapacious animals. He
+also informed me, that two years before, the Gooberites took and
+pillaged his town, putting to the sword nearly the whole of its
+inhabitants, and he himself narrowly escaped with life. This was, no
+doubt, the reason of the scantiness of the population, and the poverty
+of the chief and his remaining subjects. As soon as the chief had
+returned to the town, a new-married couple paid me a visit. To the
+bride, a very interesting girl of eighteen, I gave guinea-nuts, to the
+value of one hundred cowries, on accepting which she dropped on one
+knee, and thanked me in a modest but graceful manner; and in the
+evening, in return for the trifling present I had given her, she sent me
+some butter-milk, which was an acceptable gift at that time.
+
+At the usual hour, on the morning of the 28th, we again set out, and
+halted at a small wretched looking village, called Kookay, at twelve at
+noon. The inhabitants, who were as squalid in appearance as their
+village was contemptible, were miserably attired, and complained sadly,
+amongst other grievances, of the mischief done to their crops by
+repeated visits of wild pigs, which had completely destroyed the
+principal part of them.
+
+At noon of the next day we stopped at Duncammee, a moderately sized
+walled town, with an overflowing population. I was both surprised and
+pleased to observe the neatness of this town, and the tidiness of its
+inhabitants. Every inch of spare ground was planted with tobacco, and
+tastefully fenced round with the dried stalks of that plant. The
+inhabitants at the northern quarter of the town manufacture large
+quantities of cotton cloths, which are neat and durable. The wall, by
+which the town is surrounded, was in a decayed state, but the houses
+were in excellent condition. The chief welcomed me to his dwelling, and
+offered me the best apartment in it; and to remunerate his generosity I
+gave him a clasp knife and a hundred needles.
+
+On the morning of the 30th we were again in motion, and halted at Gaza
+at noon. The chief, like his neighbours, was happy to see me, lodged me
+in his own house, and paid every attention to my wants.
+
+Next day we continued our journey at the usual hour, and halted at Royoó
+at one o’clock at noon. In that town I became suddenly worse, lost my
+sight in an extraordinary manner, and could not rise in bed from
+excessive weakness and pain. Fancying I should be able to proceed no
+further, and that my existence was drawing rapidly to a close, I called
+Pasko to my bed-side, and implored him, after he had buried me, to take
+particular care of the property he would be left in charge of, and
+travel with the utmost expedition to Soccatoo, where he would be
+rewarded, according to his deserts, by Captain Clapperton; for thief and
+villain as he had proved himself to be, he had some good points, and I
+thought that the oath he had taken before the Governor of Kano would
+have bound him to honesty.
+
+On the 1st of December I remained dreadfully ill, expecting every moment
+to draw my last breath; but at two o’clock on the afternoon of the next
+day I rallied a little, and although unable to sit up, determined to see
+my dear master, if possible, before I died. With this object in view, I
+ordered my people to prepare a couch for me on the back of the camel,
+after which they lifted me gently into it, and I almost immediately
+desired them to proceed.
+
+The Chief of Royoó, who was one of Bello’s principal fighting men,
+behaved particularly kindly to me, and I really believe sincerely
+sympathized in my distress. He expressed his regret and sorrow at
+parting with me in so languid a state, and intimated, that it would be
+dangerous to go on, although he did not oppose my resolution, when he
+saw it would be useless to do so. The path, the greater part of the way,
+being very narrow, and thickly lined on each side with a species of
+prickly thorn, I was annoyed greatly, in consequence of their sharp
+points frequently tearing the covering from my bed, and exposing my body
+to the intense heat of a burning sun. The Kano messenger, however,
+ascertaining the cause of my uneasiness, and compassionating my misery,
+rode before the camel, and with the greatest dexterity lopped off the
+overhanging branches that were likely to impede the animal’s progress,
+which rendered the remaining part of the journey infinitely more
+tolerable. The violent shaking of the camel caused a faintness to come
+over me several times on the road, on which occasions my party uniformly
+halted until I revived; and in this manner we travelled till seven in
+the evening, when we entered the walled town of Koólefée.
+
+The chief, a remarkably fine old man, never having seen a white man, was
+in transports the moment he learnt I was in the town; and running to the
+camel, he took me from off its back, and carried me into an apartment
+which had been hastily prepared for my reception. Placing me on a mat,
+he took a goora nut from his pocket, and holding it betwixt his finger
+and thumb, intreated me to chew one end of it, in order that he might
+have the honor of eating with a white man, and a Christian; this I
+succeeded in doing after some difficulty, when he immediately ate the
+remainder with much apparent satisfaction. His great men, who surrounded
+me, reproved the chief sharply for doing this; but quickly answering
+them in a pleasant and firm tone, he said that he believed the “Little
+Christian” was as good a man as himself, or any of them; which
+effectually silenced their remarks. The chief shortly afterwards went
+out, and returning in a few minutes with a bowl containing six quarts of
+new milk, sweetened with honey, told me that he was determined to see me
+swallow the whole of it before he left the apartment. Contrary to his
+wishes, however, I partook sparingly of the contents of the bowl at
+first, but during the night took large and repeated draughts, which
+refreshed and invigorated me.
+
+On arising the following morning, I found myself so much better, that I
+travelled on horseback, although not without much difficulty, to Zunko,
+a miserable village in which we slept.
+
+At sunrise on the 4th, we resumed our journey, and after a fatiguing
+ride of seven hours, arrived at Roma, a town insignificant as to size,
+but which being built on an eminence, commands a delightful prospect of
+the country for miles round. As soon as I entered the house of the
+chief, in which I slept, he made me the accustomed presents of
+provisions, &c. for which he accepted in return a pair of scissars, a
+hundred needles, and a paper of cloves. Several Falatah girls of a
+bright copper colour; came to me in the evening, who were exceedingly
+beautiful, having delicate and graceful forms; and, with a curiosity so
+natural to their sex, were all eager to catch a glimpse of the “Little
+Christian,” they having before seen the “_Great_ Christian,” as my
+master was called. In the course of the afternoon some of these damsels
+brought me milk and butter, for which I requited them with a few glass
+beads. In the night, I was rejoiced to find that my disorder, from the
+effects of which I had suffered so greatly, left me entirely: and from
+that hour my health rapidly and wonderfully improved.
+
+We bade adieu to the chief of Roma early in the morning of the fifth,
+and arrived at a contemptible village, called Bogell, in the course of
+the afternoon. Having slept there, we pursued our journey on the
+following day, and on entering Zulamee, the chief capered for joy on
+welcoming me to his town, and ordered four men to guard the beasts and
+property. A band of robbers having infested the neighbourhood for some
+time, had committed serious depredations on the inhabitants; and the
+chief, fancying that if the goods were left unprotected, they would be
+stolen, desired me to discharge a gun morning and evening, that the
+brigands might not think I was unprepared to receive them. They did not,
+however, think proper to molest me; but the King of Kashna was not quite
+so fortunate, for on the preceding day a fine horse was stolen from him,
+which he never afterwards recovered. I remained at Zulamee two days, in
+order to recruit the spirits of the party, and refresh the animals under
+their charge.
+
+We quitted the town on the morning of the ninth, and sleeping at
+Gundumowah, a small but neat Falatah village, arrived at Sansanee on the
+following day. The country traversed was thickly wooded, and the path
+lay for three hours through a large bush, which having recently been
+visited by a horde of elephants, the impressions of whose feet were very
+perceptible, travelling was rendered extremely unpleasant, and even
+dangerous. On our arrival the chief of the town ordered an open shed,
+occupied by a number of calves, to be cleaned out for our reception. In
+the evening, placing the baggage in the centre, I desired the men to lie
+around it, whilst I reposed near the most valuable articles. Not deeming
+the property sufficiently secure in so exposed a place, my sleep was
+rather disturbed; and arising about ten or eleven o’clock in the night,
+I found that my camel had strayed from outside the shed. Being unwilling
+to arouse my drowsy companions, I went myself in quest of him; and on
+returning a short time afterwards, discovered, to my infinite surprise
+and alarm, that Pasko had decamped with a valuable gun, two pistols, a
+cutlass, six sovereigns, nineteen dollars, twenty large and small
+knives, and various other articles, which he had contrived to extract
+from the boxes in which they had been secured. To deceive me, the artful
+old scoundrel had put a pillow into a sack, over which he threw an old
+tobe, and laid it along his own mat. On the discovery I instantly made
+an alarm, and sent to the chief for a dozen armed horsemen to go in
+pursuit of the robber.
+
+As I was standing in the shed in the afternoon of the next day, I
+perceived a party of horsemen coming towards me at full gallop. On
+approaching within a few yards they suddenly checked their steeds, and
+brandishing their spears over their heads, exclaimed in a loud voice,
+“Nasarah, Nasarah, acqui de moogoo!” (Christian, Christian, we have the
+rogue!) The men informed me that a little before daybreak in the
+morning, hearing the report of a gun, they rode towards the spot whence
+the sound seemed to proceed, and saw Pasko perched on the top of a high
+tree, the stolen articles lying at the root of it. On their threatening
+to shoot him with poisoned arrows unless he immediately came down, the
+old fellow hastily obeyed the summons, and delivered himself into their
+hands without uttering a syllable. One of the horsemen took the
+trembling scoundrel behind him, and the whole party instantly clapped
+spurs to their horses, and rode swiftly towards the village. I asked
+Pasko what had possessed him to abscond in so disgraceful a manner after
+all the protestations he had made to serve me with fidelity. He replied,
+that as his countrymen, the Gooberites, were at war with the Falatahs,
+he was afraid the latter would cut off his head the moment he was
+recognized in Soccatoo, and therefore he had adopted the wiser plan of
+securing his person from danger by running away. Whilst he was speaking
+the chief of the village, running up to us, cried out, “A blessing, a
+blessing! you have caught the thief, let me take off his head!” Not
+wishing to gratify the _good-natured_ Falatah in this his merciful
+request, I took the punishment of Pasko into my own hands; and it being
+his third or fourth offence, I ordered him to be heavily ironed, and
+pinioned in the town dungeon. This sentence was rigidly enforced, and on
+the following day, the criminal having expressed a wish to speak to me,
+I sent for him. He came into my hut, and holding up his naked arms,
+which were swollen to thrice their natural size, begged so piteously to
+be liberated from his confinement, or at least to have his punishment
+mitigated in some degree, that I desired he might not be pinioned again,
+as that operation seemed to have given him most pain; but his irons were
+not taken off till our departure from the place.
+
+On the 13th, five hundred camels, laden with salt, obtained from the
+borders of the Desert, entered Sansanee, preceded by their owners, a
+party of twenty Tuarick merchants, whose appearance was singularly novel
+and imposing. The men were all attired in the same fashion, and mounted
+on handsome pied camels, which trotted into the town with uncommon
+speed. Their dress consisted of black cotton tobes, and full trousers of
+the same colour; white caps encircled with black turbans, which
+concealed every part of the face but the nose and eyes; and red morocco
+boots. In the right hand they held a long and highly-polished spear,
+whilst the left was occupied in grasping their shields (the only
+defensive armour with which the Tuaricks are acquainted), and retaining
+the reins of the camels. The shields were covered with white leather,
+and ornamented with a small plate of silver in the centre. As they
+passed me they shook their lances, which glittered in the sun-beams, and
+their appearance was certainly warlike and formidable in the extreme.
+Stopping suddenly in front of the chief’s house, they all exclaimed, as
+if with one voice, “Tchow!” at the sound whereof the camels fell
+simultaneously on their knees, and the riders dismounted to pay their
+respects. They came in a body to see me shortly afterwards, and
+notwithstanding their apparent respectability, evinced not the slightest
+unwillingness to beg money of me, which they did in a most importunate
+manner. One of the merchants, yet more incessant in his solicitations
+than his companions, amongst other shining qualities he affirmed he was
+in possession of, stated with the utmost seriousness, that he was “God’s
+own slave,” and on that account he was not to be overlooked. I said that
+the Almighty loved his servants, and made them prosperous and happy, and
+therefore he stood in no need of my assistance. The fellow, however,
+would not be repulsed, but continued hanging on me, and in fact almost
+tore the clothes from my back, till out of all patience, I took the
+importunate slave by the shoulders, and thrust him out of the shed into
+the street. As he went off, no doubt greatly humiliated in his own
+estimation, he muttered some reproaches which I could not comprehend,
+and said that I was the first person he had ever applied to in vain for
+money. Like thousands of others, these merchants were very inquisitive,
+and amongst other questions, wished to know whether many of my
+countrymen had not tails like monkeys! I assured them that no human
+being had that elegant appendage; but instead of believing my assertion,
+they shook their heads, looked wise, and said, “You do not speak the
+truth, white man, we know better than you on saying which, they surveyed
+me with more attention than before, and one amongst them walked round me
+several times, cautiously raising the end of my tobe, to ascertain with
+certainty whether I had any thing in the shape of a tail! On observing
+the man’s motions, I took off my tobe, which convinced his countrymen
+that _I_ at least was without a tail, when they appeared better
+satisfied; and left my shed in the course of an hour to look after their
+wives and children, who were with the camels on the road, and had not
+then arrived.
+
+Provisions being rather scarce, I went a-shooting on the 14th, to
+procure a few pigeons for dinner. The Tuarick men, women, and children,
+on hearing the report of my gun, surrounded me in great numbers, and
+were infinitely amazed to see the birds falling dead at my feet from the
+tops of the tall trees. After examining them with the greatest
+attention, they declared that I was a beautiful man, too good a one for
+a Kaffir, and that I ought to be a worshipper of the true faith.
+
+In the afternoon of the 16th, fifty armed horsemen, sent by Bello,
+arrived at Sansanee, to accompany me to Soccatoo, his capital, in which
+he was waiting my arrival with impatience, and urged me to prepare to
+accompany them. The soldiers had brought my master’s two camels to
+assist in conveying the goods, which animals, as I subsequently learnt,
+the Godado had borrowed under false pretences. A messenger belonging to
+the Governor of Kano, who had accompanied the escort so far on his way
+to that city, came to me in the evening, unobserved by the Falatahs, and
+gave me a letter from Captain Clapperton, of which the following is a
+transcript:
+
+
+                                  “_Soccatoo, Wednesday, Dec._ 13, 1826.
+
+   “DEAR RICHARD,
+
+“I hope you do well; I am still here, contrary to my expectations, and
+Heaven knows when I shall be permitted to leave. This cursed Bornou war
+has overturned all my plans and intentions, and set the minds of the
+people generally against me, as it is pretty well understood by both
+rich and poor, that I have presents for their enemy the Sheikh. I wish,
+with all my heart, it was ended; no matter whether the Falatahs or
+Bornouese be victorious, so I could conveniently pursue my journey. The
+Sultan has told me that I may return by way of Bornou, if I insist upon
+it, but raises so many obstacles, that it amounts to a prohibition. He
+is evidently unwilling for me to have any dealings with his adversaries.
+I do not know how this matter will end; I must acknowledge I do not like
+the appearance of things just now; God grant my fears may be groundless.
+Since my last I have been seriously ill with an enlargement of the
+spleen,[5] but am now much relieved from the pain attendant upon this
+complaint; and the swelling is also greatly reduced. I amuse myself as
+often as opportunities occur, which are seldom enough, and frequently
+take a ramble through the town, or a ride into the country. I generally
+feel stronger after the exercise, and would recommend you to adopt a
+similar practice, for, believe me, you would soon experience the benefit
+of it. Three or four fires have happened here lately, which have done
+much mischief; but nothing of mine, I am happy to say, has been injured
+by them, although a house almost adjoining ours has been burnt to the
+ground. People say the rebels of Goober are the authors of them, but I
+put no confidence in these rumours, as they are without the slightest
+proof. I believe I have nothing more, in the shape of news, to acquaint
+you with, and my only reason for writing you at all is, to let you know
+how I get on, that you may not be uneasy on my account. Adieu, Richard,
+and rest assured I have your interest and welfare at heart.
+
+                                     “Your sincere friend and master,
+
+                                                    “HUGH CLAPPERTON.”
+
+“_Richard Lander, Kano._”
+
+
+I was astonished, on perusing this letter, to find that my master knew
+nothing of the circumstance of my having left Kano, still less of my
+being so near him; and it struck me forcibly at the time that Bello
+wished to get me into his power, only to become the sole possessor of
+the presents intended for the Sheikh of Bornou, by laying violent hands
+both on Captain Clapperton and myself. With this belief I arose next
+morning, and asked the Godado’s brother, who commanded the escort, if it
+was not the Sultan’s intention to take away our lives on my entering
+Soccatoo, as my master knew nothing of what had transpired; but the
+Falatah answered,—“Fear nothing, our King will not injure either of you;
+his sole reason for sending for you is, that as he has seen but one
+Christian, he feels the greatest desire to become acquainted with a
+second.” “Remember the men of Boussa!” I simply retorted, when he left
+me in extreme haste and great uneasiness.
+
+The Godado’s brother was as importunate as the Tuarick merchants in
+begging money of me to purchase goora nuts, for the two first days after
+the arrival of the escort, and became so troublesome that I at length
+told him I had no property of my own, but that all he saw belonged to my
+master, without whose consent I was determined not to spare a single
+cowry. The Falatah was not at all pleased at the answer; but on telling
+him that on my arrival in Soccatoo he should be handsomely rewarded, he
+ceased to plague me.
+
+Every thing being in readiness, on the 19th, I liberated old Pasko, who
+seemed dispirited, and truly sorry for the offence he had been guilty
+of, and at two in the afternoon I quitted the town with the escort, but
+was obliged to leave a bullock behind, the animal being lamed, and
+unable to walk a hundred steps without stumbling. Having travelled at a
+rapid rate through the dreaded “Goober Bush,” we arrived, much fatigued,
+at Magaria, about eleven o’clock the next night. The poor horses and
+camels having suffered dreadfully during the journey from thirst and
+over-exertion, we were obliged to remain in the town two days, in order
+that they might enjoy a little rest. During our stay I resided in a
+house belonging to the Godado, whose brother supplied me with abundance
+of excellent provisions. I was requested by some of the principal
+inhabitants to kill a few birds with my gun, that several strangers then
+in the town might have an opportunity of seeing in what manner they were
+procured in my country. I soon gratified their curiosity, by shooting a
+small bird at the distance of fifty yards; on which they betrayed the
+utmost surprise, nor would they believe for a long time that it was
+really dead, but kept turning it round, and feeling whether it had
+actually received a wound.
+
+On the 23rd we quitted the town of Magaria, and, to my great joy,
+entered Soccatoo about two o’clock in the afternoon of the same day,
+after a disagreeable and wearisome journey (from Kano) of nearly a
+month. Not having seen my master for the period of a quarter of a year,
+I made the greatest haste to his house; but not finding him at home, I
+was conducted to the Godado’s, with whose owner I found him in earnest
+conversation. Although certainly surprised, he was glad to see me, and
+we walked home together.
+
+The day after my arrival (24th December), Sultan Bello sent a messenger
+to request my master and myself to repair without delay to his
+residence. As soon as we were admitted into his presence, he abruptly
+began the conversation by inquiring the nature of the presents I had
+with me, and was extremely solicitous to know if I had left any of them
+behind in Kano, for the Sheikh of Bornou. I replied that I had not. “Are
+you sure of that?” rejoined the Sultan. I answered with firmness a
+second time in the negative. Bello then demanded the King of England’s
+letters to the Sheikh, which my master, after a short pause, reluctantly
+produced; but vehemently opposed the Sultan’s wishes for him to open and
+read them, observing, that as soon as his sovereign should discover, on
+his return to England, that he had so unfaithfully broken his trust, he
+would instantly be beheaded. The Falatah prince then took the letters
+into his own hands, and on his graciously waving his hand in token that
+he wished to have nothing more to say, we bowed, and left the apartment.
+
+We had not returned to our hut a great while, when the Godado, his
+brother, Hat Sallah, (who had received secret instructions to overtake
+me on the road,) with several of the principal inhabitants of Soccatoo,
+entered, and demanded, in the name of the Sultan, the presents intended
+for the Sheikh of Bornou, together with all the arms and ammunition
+which we should not want ourselves. My master became violently agitated
+when their errand was communicated, and rising from the mat on which he
+had been reposing, exclaimed with energy and bitterness:—
+
+“There is no faith in any of you; you are an unjust people; you are
+worse than highway robbers!”
+
+The Falatahs cautioned him to be more moderate in his expressions, or it
+might cost him his head.
+
+“If I lose my head,” retorted the Captain, in the same determined tone
+and manner, “it will be for no other crime than that of speaking for the
+just rights of my king and country; I repeat, you are a nation of
+scoundrels and robbers.”
+
+Hat Sallah entreated him (in Arabic) to express himself with less
+emphasis, and in milder language before the people, who would carry
+every word he had uttered to their sovereign. I also joined in the same
+request, and begged him, as the attempt at resistance, for people so
+circumstanced as we were, would be the height of imprudence, to accede
+to the commands of the sultan, how tyrannical soever they might be. At
+length, after much persuasion, Capt. Clapperton consented that the
+presents in question should be produced; but desired the godado, on his
+leaving the apartment, to inform his king that he never wished to see
+him again; and that his business with him, after such perfidious
+conduct, was at an end.
+
+A short time after they had quitted our house, Mallam Mudey returned
+with a message from Bello, stating it to be the intention of that
+monarch to write to his _friend_ the King of England, in explanation of
+his behaviour; but my master assured the holy man that _his_ sovereign
+would not even look at the superscription of a letter from Bello, after
+being made acquainted with the dastardly action by which he had so
+disgraced himself.
+
+Soccatoo has been considerably enlarged by the present sultan, and is
+indisputably the most important city in the interior of Africa. The wall
+that surrounds the capital of the Falatah empire, does not indeed
+encompass so large a portion of ground as that of Kano, but its
+population is treble the amount; and allowing the latter city to contain
+forty thousand souls, the aggregate number of inhabitants in Soccatoo
+will be one hundred and twenty thousand; which computation I do not
+conceive to be over-rated.
+
+Kano is distant from Soccatoo twenty regular days journey, or about two
+hundred and fifty English miles. The metropolis is built in a pleasant
+situation, on the summit of a gently elevated spot of land, and has a
+river flowing near the northern end, which enters the Quorra four days
+journey from Cubbé. The wall is high, and provided with eleven gates;
+but has an extremely heavy appearance. Architecture, as a science, is
+not cultivated in the interior; and the termites can rear as elegant a
+mansion as the natives, and in a far more ingenious manner. The
+habitations in Soccatoo are constructed like those of Kano, with clay,
+and have a dull, gloomy appearance.
+
+An old Haussan with two asses arrived in the city one day from Egypt.
+Having stopped in the different towns through which he had to pass, for
+the purpose of trafficking with their inhabitants, he had accomplished
+the long and dangerous journey in little more than a twelvemonth. He
+informed me that he had undergone great privations on the road, and had
+well nigh perished of thirst on more than one occasion. He had had no
+human companion to cheer him; and his affection for the brute associates
+of his lonely pilgrimage was singularly great. They had fared in common
+with himself; they had eaten and slept together; and, said the old man,
+as he drove away the patient-looking animals, “I would as soon lose my
+life as be deprived of them.” The Haussan observed that it was his
+intention to proceed to Tombuctoo the following week, and that on his
+return he should pay me a visit, but I never saw or heard any thing of
+him afterwards.
+
+The people of Soccatoo cry their provisions round the city; and milk,
+fish, &c. are daily hawked through the streets by the lower orders,
+whose voices are as loud and shrill as those heard in London. The cry of
+“_Nono de mi!_” (milk and butter) always put me in mind of bells
+belonging to village churches; there was something peculiarly plaintive
+in the rising and falling of the voice of the young female who used to
+vend those articles morning and evening in the immediate neighbourhood
+of our dwelling; and, in my opinion, it strikingly resembled them in
+sound. “Namah du tonkah,” mutton (literally “flesh of the sheep”);
+“Namah de la comma” (camel’s meat); “Namah du acquia” (beef); “Gorassa”
+(little cakes made of pounded wheat); are also cried every morning; as
+is likewise “dowah,” and every other variety of grain produced in
+Haussa.
+
+Wheat was first imported into Haussa by the Arabs about a century ago;
+and even now they have the exclusive cultivation of it. Bread is only to
+be met with in two cities, Soccatoo and Zaria, and is manufactured by
+the female slaves of the Arabs, who sell it publicly by retail for their
+masters. For a very good reason I never tasted any of it whilst in
+Africa, and therefore can say nothing as to its good or bad quality.
+
+Pasko, whom my master had dismissed his service the moment he was made
+acquainted with his two-fold villainy, without paying the wages that
+were due to him, applied to a native lawyer in Soccatoo for advice; but
+the learned Falatah having patiently listened to the details of his
+case, discarded him, with the assurance, that if he had been Abdullah
+(Captain Clapperton’s travelling name), instead of rewarding him, he
+would have cut off his head!
+
+Under this consolation the old man, having a small sum of money in his
+possession, turned snuff-merchant, but being cheated by every body,
+became insolvent in the course of a very short time, and, in order to
+procure a slender maintenance, was ultimately obliged to cut wood from a
+neighbouring forest. In the height of his prosperity as a tradesman,
+Pasko, forgetting all his former vows and misfortunes and contrary to
+his usual custom, formally paid his addresses to a black slave, named
+Mattah Gewow (literally Miss, or woman-elephant), in the household of
+Ben Gumso, an Arab. This woman, a native of Yariba, which country is
+notorious for ugly females, had a countenance inexpressibly hideous, but
+was well known by all ranks in Soccatoo, as the most experienced maker
+of _tuah_[6] which that or any other city could produce. In addition to
+the other attractions of this lady, a huge white tooth hung from her
+upper jaw, affectionately embracing the nether lip; and her chin was
+bristled most divinely with a slender but conspicuous and stubborn
+beard,—she being the only individual of her sex I had seen in the
+country possessing so masculine an ornament. Mattah Gewow was in the
+decline of life, having seen between fifty and sixty dry seasons pass
+over her head, and had, in her earlier years, been allured from the
+paths of innocence and virtue by a blind fiddler in the pay of the late
+and present sultan, who had refused to make her reparation by marriage.
+From that period to the time of our visiting Soccatoo, no sable swain
+had been emboldened to pay her any marked attentions; and the injured
+woman was inconsolable under the thoughts of living for ever in “single
+blessedness,” when the affectionate Pasko, having casually partaken of
+her far-famed tuah, pronounced it to be the best he had ever tasted, and
+immediately offered his heart and person, which, after a few _invisible_
+blushes on the lady’s part, were modestly accepted. The betrothed, as
+soon as they perfectly understood each other, spent all their leisure
+moments in their own delightful society, Pasko extolling the charms of
+the peerless Miss Elephant to the skies, and Miss Elephant returning the
+compliment by perpetually discovering fresh subjects for admiration and
+love in the person and physiognomy of the incomparable snuff-merchant.
+Thus the first few evenings of their courtship were passed, at which
+time I was a constant visiter at Ben Gumso’s, and often overheard their
+tender discourse. I broke in upon the lovers one day rather
+unexpectedly, in the midst of their dalliance, when Pasko was pouring
+out an eloquent and passionate eulogium on the graces of his Mattah,
+who, on observing me,
+
+
+  “_Blush’d_ at the praise of her own loveliness!”
+
+
+and, with her adorer, looked exceedingly foolish. Being unwilling to
+disturb the harmony that had prevailed before my intrusion, I left the
+happy couple to enjoy themselves as they thought proper, and quitted the
+house.
+
+A day having been fixed upon for the marriage ceremony, the suitor
+determined to spend it jovially; and his own finances being at a very
+low ebb, he borrowed four thousand cowries of Ben Gumso, in order that
+nothing might be wanting to stamp dignity and consequence on the
+celebration of the festival. Pasko had just before embraced Islamism,
+and rigidly observed the outward rules of that belief; besides which he
+was well skilled in all the learning and knowledge of the Falatahs; so
+that the Arab did not hesitate to advance him the money he sought, on
+the faith of his bare promise of re-payment. The evening preceding the
+ceremony, Pasko sent a present of snuff, an old shirt, &c. to Mattah,
+which was acknowleged by a bowl of rich tuah; and the compact was thus
+formally ratified. On the following morning the “fatha” was read, and
+Pasko and the _lovely_ Mattah became man and wife. Agreeably to promise,
+the happy bridegroom spent the day merrily with a friend or two he had
+invited; but so far forgot himself, his newly-adopted religion, and the
+respect he owed his bride, that towards evening he became intoxicated;
+indeed so much so that he was bereaved of his reason; and Mattah, who
+was only _tipsy_, perceiving her husband in this pickle, was very wrath,
+and pouring a whole bowl of hot half-boiled tuah over his head, face,
+and breast, gave him a sound drubbing with an empty calabash, and turned
+the unfortunate snuff-merchant out into the street half dead, where he
+remained in a state of insensibility till the next morning. On awaking,
+and finding himself bespattered from head to foot with tuah, Pasko had a
+confused recollection of the preceding evening’s debauch, and its
+disastrous consequences; but instead of disturbing the slumbers of his
+amiable wife, he strolled listlessly towards our hut, sorely distressed
+in mind and body, where I met him an hour or so afterwards, the end of
+his tobe being completely saturated with his tears, which were yet
+flowing, and his whole appearance looking uncommonly grotesque. After
+making me acquainted with the melancholy tale of his mishap, he begged
+me to use my influence in order to compromise matters betwixt his gentle
+consort and himself, and assured me that if I succeeded, when occasion
+needed, he would cheerfully lay down his life for me.
+
+Wishing to be better acquainted with a woman, whose excessive ugliness
+and skilful tuah-making were the table talk of the whole kingdom of
+Houssa, I willingly embraced the proposition, and making a visit to Ben
+Gumso’s, had the good fortune to reconcile the angry lady to her
+sorrowing lord, after which they lived very happily together, till
+Pasko’s bankruptcy broke in upon their domestic felicity, and drove the
+ill-fated man into the woods. To the credit of Mattah, however, be it
+spoken, she did not abandon her husband in his mournful reverse of
+fortune; but, with an attachment worthy of her sex, supplied him, as far
+as she was able, with food and raiment; and their parting interview, on
+Pasko’s leaving Soccatoo with me, was beyond description natural,
+tender, and pathetic.
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER IX.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+Religion — Laws — Government — Amusements, &c. of the Natives from
+Badagry to Soccatoo — Slavery in the interior countries — Timidity of
+the people — State of the arts amongst them — Dry and wet seasons.
+
+
+The religion of the natives from Badagry to Soccatoo is either
+Mohammedism or Paganism; or, as it frequently appeared to us, a mixture
+of both, so nicely blended, as to make it impossible to ascertain with
+accuracy which belief had the ascendancy. Idols, or figures of birds,
+beasts, and reptiles, are worshipped in Badagry, Jannah, and Yaribas
+exclusively, while in the kingdoms of Borghoo, Nyffé, and Houssa,
+Islamism prevails in a greater or less degree.
+
+The professors of the former faith have a vague and indistinct notion of
+one great Being reigning above the skies, who is infinitely superior to
+every other in the nature of his attributes, and the extent of his power
+and influence. To this unknown God they pay divine adoration, through
+the medium of insignificant and inanimate objects, by the offering up of
+sacrifices to the latter, under the belief that the Great Spirit exists
+at so immeasurable a distance from them, and his time is so much
+employed in other and more important matters, that he cannot listen to
+the prayers of every individual. In consequence of this he appoints
+innumerable subordinate agents and machines, who aid and assist him, and
+minister to the affairs of mankind. They believe also in the existence
+of a powerful malevolent Spirit, who endeavours to counteract the good
+deeds of the Most High by every means, and is the author of all the
+mischief that annoys them. The people stand in the greatest dread of the
+power and machinations of this terrible demon, and strive to avert his
+wrath, and conciliate his favour, by oblations of dogs, sheep, and, in
+many cases, of human beings. Fetish-huts are the temples of their
+worship, which are regarded with superstitious awe by rich and poor; and
+are each furnished with one or more priests, who alone are acquainted
+with the mysteries of their religion. Some of the people are very
+sincere in their devotional exercises, which are energetic and simple;
+whilst many pay little respect to the exterior forms of worship, openly
+ridiculing those who profess a greater share of sanctity than
+themselves; and, whenever they are unsuccessful in their pursuits and
+enterprizes, even belabour their household gods without mercy. They
+entertain also an idea that the soul hovers round the scenes it had
+known in the body, for an indefinite length of time; but that it is
+ultimately conducted to a place of happiness or misery; a kind of heaven
+for the peaceable, and hell for the turbulent, according to the deeds it
+has suggested in this life, and there to remain everlastingly. Both
+Mohammedan and Pagan attach miraculous qualities to fetishes or charms,
+which to them are an effectual panoply against every danger; sometimes a
+chief or great man is actually covered with them from head to foot, and
+in this state considers himself as secure as Achilles in his armour. I
+have often been urged to discharge a pistol, loaded with ball, at the
+breast of an individual thus supernaturally defended, but it is
+unnecessary to say that I never risked the men’s lives at the expence of
+their ignorance and credulity, having endeavoured in every instance,
+although unsuccessfully, to persuade them out of their superstitious
+prejudices by less dangerous experiments. The natives appear to have no
+gloomy foreboding as the hour of death approaches; nor do they, as I had
+often been given to understand, anticipate dissolution with any symptoms
+of fear or alarm.
+
+Those who profess the Mohammedan religion amongst the negroes are as
+ignorant and superstitious as their idolatrous brethren; nor does it
+appear that their having adopted a new creed has either improved their
+manners, or bettered their state and condition in life. On the contrary,
+I have generally found the followers of the Prophet to be less
+hospitable to strangers, less kind to each other, and infinitely more
+mischievous and wicked than the heathen portions of the community, whom
+they, whimsically enough, affect to despise as rude barbarians, although
+_their_ claims to superior intelligence are grounded simply on the oral
+communications of the principles of the Koran, received from time to
+time from the wandering Moors and Arabs; or from traditionary legends of
+their country. The artful Arabian, however, withholds from them a full
+half of the little he himself may be acquainted with, taking care to
+teach them no more than is absolutely necessary to promote his own
+views, and enlarge his own interests. The Mohammedan negroes go through
+their ablutions regularly, and when water is not to be obtained, make
+use of sand, as the Koran enjoins. The Tuaricks, or “Bereberes,”
+(Children of the Desert,) adopt the latter method on all occasions, the
+trouble of applying water, even when they have abundance within their
+reach, being too irksome and unpleasant for them.
+
+The Falatahs, who profess Islamism, understand and make use of a few
+Arabic prayers, but the negro that can utter so long a sentence as: “_La
+illah el Allah rasoul allahi!_” (There is but one God, and Mohammed is
+his prophet,) is styled _mallam_, or learned, and is regarded with looks
+of respect and reverence by his less intelligent countrymen. These
+mallams are scattered in great numbers over the country, and procure an
+easy and respectable subsistence by making fetishes, or writing charms
+on bits of wood, which are washed off carefully into a bason, and drunk
+with avidity by the credulous multitude, who consider the dirty water
+used in the operation as a panacea for every disease and affliction. As
+the office of mallam, which answers to that of priest in Catholic
+countries, is one of great sanctity as well as considerable emolument,
+every one burns with impatience to get initiated into its sacred
+mysteries, and enjoy a like comfortable and indolent life as the mallams
+themselves; for a learned man never toils or spins, but is bountifully
+fed, and pampered in luxury by his lay countrymen. Every caravan is
+furnished with one or more of these corpulent drones, who loll at their
+ease, while their employers are at the same time, perhaps, actually
+killing themselves with over-exertion.
+
+Few of the negroes can articulate in Arabic more than the word “Allah,”
+or “Bismillah,” believing that the frequent repetition of the former of
+these expressions can absolve them from all sin, without any further
+demonstration of their zeal and sincerity. Even after the committal of a
+capital offence, should the criminal be almost immediately executed, and
+“Allah!” is heard to tremble on his closing lips, the multitude firmly
+believe that his soul will inevitably be conveyed to the third Heaven,
+and be happy for evermore.
+
+Swarms of sheriffs, or emirs, the real or fictitious descendants of
+Mohammed and Ali, have crossed the desert, and practice their
+disgraceful impositions to so great an extent, that the eyes of the
+natives are partially opened to their chicanery, and they are often
+regarded as characters with whom it would be dangerous to meddle.
+
+The belief in the “Evil Eye,” is equally common with Mohammedan as
+Pagan, and this superstition, borrowed from the Moors, has lost none of
+its fearful interest by being transplanted to a foreign soil. If
+sickness of any kind visits a child before it has attained the age of
+three or four years, then say the people the “Evil Eye, is fixed upon
+it,” and the relatives of the afflicted infant endeavour to avert the
+wasting glance of the malevolent and unseen spirit by sacrifices of
+birds, and various other means.
+
+Mallams from Houssa reside in almost every town of consequence through
+which we passed on our journey into the interior,—propagating their
+religion, and teaching the inhabitants to read and write as much as they
+themselves know. The Mohammedan faith is spreading daily and rapidly by
+this means, particularly in Nyffé, hundreds of the natives of that
+kingdom having lost sight of their ancient prejudices, and the religion
+of their forefathers, and embraced the more congenial tenets of
+Islamism. In some cities or towns, however, these mallams have been very
+roughly handled by the people, and many of them have lost their lives in
+disseminating, with too great eagerness, their opinions amongst the
+worshippers of idols. As an instance of this, five holy men, two or
+three of whom were Arab emirs, visited Katunga, the capital of Yariba, a
+few years since, and immediately began to spread the dogmas of their
+faith amongst the inhabitants, publicly teaching their children to read
+the Koran, &c. The priests of the fetish, who, in regard to their
+religious observances, surprizingly resemble the Druids of England
+before the Conquest, became sensibly alarmed at the rapid progress of
+another and strange belief, so inimical to their best interests, and
+tending to the injury, if not the complete overthrow, of the power and
+influence which they themselves and their ancestors had exercised for a
+series of ages over the minds and actions of the votaries of Paganism.
+They went in a body to their monarch, the present king, threatening him
+with the loss of his empire, if he persisted in tolerating the religious
+principles broached by the mallams. This denunciation so intimidated the
+superstitious prince, that he was frightened into a compliance with
+their wishes of appointing a day, or rather night, for the assassination
+of the unsuspecting Mussulmans, which was accordingly carried into
+execution, and Ben Gumso, my old friend in Soccatoo, was the only one
+amongst the number who escaped with life. This learned Arab was indebted
+to one of the wives of his Yaribean majesty, for his flight and
+preservation. Having overheard part of the conversation between her
+royal consort and the fetish-priests, and entertaining some share of
+veneration for the expounders of a doctrine she secretly approved of, as
+well as feeling compassion for them, in consequence of their
+premeditated massacre, the queen embraced the earliest opportunity of
+apprizing Ben Gumso of the danger that threatened his companions and
+himself; but this being done only a few seconds before the execution of
+the sentence, the Arab was obliged to elope in a state of nudity from
+his house, without having leisure to bestow a single thought on his ill-
+fated associates.
+
+From that period a mallam has never ventured to enter the gates of
+Katunga, and the Mohammedan religion was soon forgotten by the people.
+They have, however, penetrated beyond the empire of Yariba, two Houssa
+holy men, having found their way to Jannah, the town in which Dr.
+Morrison, it is said, died and was buried, and three others to Badagry;
+but more of these individuals are allowed openly to profess their
+religion, or teach the children of the inhabitants to read, on pain of
+death; and, they are, moreover, looked upon with the greatest suspicion.
+The mallams, in the latter city, were not permitted to make themselves
+known to us on our journey into the interior, nor to me on my return,
+till after I had swallowed the fetish-water, when they visited me with
+presents of fowls, ducks, and rice, and testified the sincerest pleasure
+on my answering their earnest interrogations respecting their native
+country.
+
+Nevertheless, in the course of a generation or two, I have no doubt, in
+spite of every obstacle, that the religion of Mohammed, in its exterior
+forms and ceremonies at least, will be universally adopted in Western
+and Central Africa, to the complete discomforture of the fetish-priests
+and their proselytes; and unless some unforseen convulsion arrest the
+hasty and gigantic strides Islamism is making towards that consummation,
+and divert the minds of the people to other objects, the period does not
+seem to be very remote when Paganism will be unknown in the land.
+
+
+                                 LAWS.
+
+
+In a rude state of society nothing can be more simple than the laws and
+punishments of the people. In several of the Pagan countries of the
+interior of Africa, having no written code, the natives appoint elders
+to administer justice, at the head of whom the King, or chief, generally
+presides. In petty cases, such as trifling assaults and other
+misdemeanors, the parties concerned compromise the matter without
+referring it to the general assembly. In Badagry the fetish-priests are
+the sole judges of the people, and the statutes of their country, like
+those of the Druids, are recorded in their own breasts only,
+consequently they are mostly swayed in their decisions by interest, or
+influenced by prejudice and passion; but in no instance are they
+murmured against by either plaintiff or defendant.
+
+Murder, adultery, and theft, are the most general crimes, and in many
+African countries are punishable with death, banishment, or perpetual
+imprisonment. In Yariba and Nyffé, the relatives of a murdered man may,
+and often do, accept of a sum of money, named by them, from the
+criminal, which is considered equivalent to corporal punishment. In
+Badagry, Borghoo, and Houssa, however, an individual guilty of slaying a
+free man, if apprehended, instantly loses his life, and his body is left
+to be devoured by vultures.
+
+In cases of adultery, the injured husband is at liberty to do what he
+pleases with his unfaithful partner, even to the taking away her life;
+and if her seducer has not money enough at his disposal to satisfy the
+former for the loss of his honor, the same punishment may be inflicted
+upon him also. The extreme rigor of the laws on this head occasions
+instances of adultery to be exceedingly rare in every other country but
+Borghoo, where the punishment attending it being infinitely less rigidly
+exacted, the offence is more generally prevalent.
+
+Theft, in Nyffé, is punished by imprisonment of the party or parties;
+and in all aggravated cases the criminal is confined in irons, in a
+large gloomy dungeon, for a given number of years, where he is compelled
+to labour in various avocations till the expiration of the term
+expressed in his sentence. In Yariba the crime of stealing, owing to the
+dreadful severity of punishment that awaits delinquents, is by no means
+common among the people. Free men, found guilty of larceny, are operated
+upon, and retained by the king or his chiefs as guardians for their
+numerous wives. In this state they are equal in value to five prime
+slaves; and it makes no difference if the thief be the father of a large
+family, or the husband of many females, and respectable as to wealth and
+connections,—the sentence is on all occasions rigorously enforced. Those
+who effect robberies of greater magnitude, or burglaries (if free men),
+are chastised in the same singular manner, after which the tattoo mark
+of their country is cancelled (consisting simply of having the face cut
+and gashed in a thousand places), that of another nation substituted,
+and when partially recovered from the effects of the wounds, the
+miserable wretches are driven, like beasts, to the sea-coast, and sold
+into perpetual slavery. _Slaves_ guilty of theft, or indeed of almost
+any other crime, are uniformly decapitated in Yariba, without the
+benefit of trial; whereas all free men are judged impartially by the
+elders of the people in the hearing of the king, in the palaver-house,
+or hall of council.
+
+Yarro, ruler of Khiama, a province of Borghoo, encourages theft, by
+appropriating part of the stolen property to his own use, which is
+generally presented to him by the robber in person; but if an
+individual, after being successful in a depredation, forgets or refuses
+to tender the accustomed portion of the spoil to his sovereign, he is
+immediately beheaded, and the whole of his property falls to the king.
+On my return to that country I was informed by several of the natives,
+that as soon as their prince heard of our approaching his territories
+from Yariba, he caused a proclamation to be issued in every town through
+which we were expected to pass, prohibiting the inhabitants from
+stealing even a needle from the white men, and threatening with death
+every one that infringed this law. To this wholesome and timely
+declaration of Yarro I attribute the great respect in which our persons
+were held by the multitude, and the reverence with which they regarded
+our property and effects.
+
+In Yariba and Borghoo, as well as in several other countries, when women
+find themselves _enceintes_, they must immediately inform their husbands
+of the circumstance; or in attempt at concealment, are publicly flogged.
+The same punishment is also inflicted on females who are known to
+associate with the other sex before the expiration of three years after
+the birth of an infant, that being the period mothers are obliged to
+suckle their offspring.
+
+
+                              GOVERNMENT.
+
+
+The government of Badagry, Yariba, Nyffé, and Houssa, is a perfect and
+unlimited despotism, the sovereigns of those countries exercising
+absolute power over the lives and property of their subjects, as well as
+the privilege of enacting the most arbitrary laws, and other acts
+peculiar to the kingly office. The government of Borghoo, however,
+partakes more of the nature of a limited monarchy than of real
+despotism, the people sharing, in some degree, in the management of the
+state, through the representation of the chiefs or elders of towns, who,
+like the feudal barons of England in the reign of John, have
+considerable influence with their sovereign, and are consulted in all
+affairs of consequence. These chiefs, themselves, are oftentimes
+factious and turbulent, fomenting innumerable broils and wranglings
+amongst the people in their respective jurisdictions, to gratify with a
+better grace their own private feelings of resentment, and to disturb
+the public peace by arbitrary and unlawful proceedings. The people of
+Boussa, the principal state in Borghoo, together with those of its
+sister provinces of Youri, Wow Wow, and Khiama, are indebted to the
+Bornouese for their origin; or at least the traditions of the natives
+intimate that Borghoo was colonized from Bornou at a remote era, in
+which opinion all classes implicitly believe; and, like the
+Carthaginians of old, the people of the former kingdom are not forgetful
+of their derivation, but send annually a number of presents by way of
+acknowledgment to their ancient country; although of late years, owing
+to the disturbances of the Falatahs, the accustomed presents have not
+been received in Bornou with the same punctuality as formerly.
+
+
+                              AMUSEMENTS.
+
+
+The recreations of the Africans are few and simple. At Wow Wow horse-
+racing takes place every Friday, (the Mohammedan Sabbath,) immediately
+after the compliments of the day are over. The course, which is a mile
+in length, is kept clean and free from grass, &c. by persons appointed
+for that purpose by the king; and the race is extremely well contested,
+exciting amongst the people generally as lively an interest as the same
+sport does in the minds of my own countrymen. The competitors are
+oftentimes twelve or fourteen in number, and the rider of the swiftest
+horse obtains no other reward than the honor of the deed itself, and the
+privilege of _dancing_, at the conclusion of the game, with the king,
+queens, and princesses of Wow Wow! The inhabitants, on these occasions,
+attire themselves in their gayest apparel, and, in the evening,
+assembling in groups in different parts of the town, pass many an hour
+in singing, dancing, and carousing, till, towards morning, they go tipsy
+to bed. Horse-racing is, I believe, peculiar to Wow Wow; for in no other
+African country that I have heard of (except perhaps Khiama), or that
+came within the reach of my own observation, is a similar amusement
+preserved. The people of Borghoo divert themselves by playing at a kind
+of chequers, and throwing cowries from a certain distance into a hole
+previously dug in the earth; the latter amusement is somewhat similar to
+our “pitch and toss,” and is cultivated by all ranks and both sexes with
+uncommon ardour. In addition to these pastimes, the higher orders spend
+whole days in hunting and fishing.
+
+
+                           SONGS, MUSIC, &c.
+
+
+If the character of a nation may be judged of by its Songs, the Africans
+undoubtedly would be pronounced as the boldest and most martial, as well
+as the most amorous people, on the face of the globe. Their strains
+breathe nothing but love and war, and contempt of death; but their
+conduct, instead of corresponding with such lofty ideas, is the most
+pusillanimous imaginable, scarcely one amongst them ever evincing a
+solitary trait of true courage or resolution. Of all figures of speech,
+they most delight in the use of the “apostrophe;” and it is not
+uncommon, even but a single day after a defeat, to hear them calling
+aloud on the names of their absent adversaries, and bestowing upon them
+all manner of cowardly and reproachful epithets.
+
+“Our enemies tremble and are dismayed when they hear of our approach,”
+sing the people of Yariba; “and at sight of our arrows they die with
+fear! See them fleeing like the doe from our fighting men! Behold them
+falling down and kissing the dust from the feet of our warriors! Haste,
+haste, Yaribeans! pursue and overtake your enemies; slay them without
+mercy; stop their voices, that they sing no more at eventide by the
+light of the moon; they are swift of foot, but they shall not escape
+you; they are already weary; their journey of life is almost at an end;
+they have fallen to the earth, and will dance no more. Weep, ye widows
+of Houssa, and let the lamentations of your children be heard in the
+land, for they are fatherless, and your husbands have been pierced by
+the lance of Yariba! They are clothed in darkness, as the noon in a
+storm. Who can tell whither their spirits are wandering? Weep, ye widows
+of Houssa; but your tears flow in vain; your husbands will return no
+more!”
+
+This is the nature of the strains sung by the females of Katunga,
+(principally the king’s wives,) at the celebration of their solemn
+feasts and festivals: the Houssans (or rather the Falatahs of that
+country) being their most inveterate enemies, are on all occasions the
+subject of their poetry, and are made to flee from the Yaribeans in
+imagination, whilst in reality they are worsted in every engagement.
+Their social and domestic songs, however, are delivered in recitative,
+(as are likewise those of the people of Borghoo,) and are the reverse of
+their public and national ones. The young females in both kingdoms that
+may happen to have strong clear voices, are generally selected as wives,
+or rather concubines, for the ruling monarchs. Their office is
+principally to attend on the king’s person, and sing and fan him to
+sleep, and the ladies consume great part of the day in these avocations;
+to vary which they sometimes play music and whistle for a long time
+together. These ladies also dally with their sovereign, by flinging
+their arms round his neck, arranging his sable locks with their fingers,
+playing the fool with his face, and a thousand other fantastic
+inventions to amuse him, such as the sex know so well how to avail
+themselves of all over the world. It is the custom in Europe for
+gentlemen to flatter the graces of the fair sex, whereas in Africa the
+practice is completely reversed; for the most extravagant encomiums are
+lavished on the beauty and blandishments of mankind by the gentler part
+of the creation.
+
+The following imperfect translation of a song, recited by his young
+wives, to the sovereign of Khiama, may serve as a specimen of the whole
+of their amatory poetry:—
+
+“Yarrow is fair among men: he shines like a star of the night; who so
+beautiful as Yarrow? His eyes have greater lustre than the
+antelope’s—more ardour than a young lion’s, when he captures his prey.
+His form is elegant as the palm-tree; he is gentle as a kid when she
+follows her dam. But Yarrow is brave in fight; his enemies tremble at
+the sound of his name, as a leaf shaken by the wind; they fall to the
+earth beneath the power of his arm, for he is a mountain of strength.
+The turtle dove is not so affectionate as our king; doth he not cherish
+his wives and concubines? Who so lovely as Yarrow? When he is pleased,
+the moon is not so mild as the light of his countenance; but when he
+frowns, who shall withstand his wrath? His face lowers like the clouds
+of heaven in a tempest; O, he is terrible in battle! Awake and be glad,
+ye daughters of Khiama; sing, ye sons, to the praise of our lord, for he
+is fair as the morning, and his countenance is like the sun in his
+strength. He is fair among men; who so beautiful as Yarrow?”
+
+It would be as difficult to detach singing and dancing from the
+character of an African, as to change the colour of his skin. I do not
+think he would live a single week in his own country without
+participating in these his favourite amusements; to deprive him of which
+would be indeed worse than death. In every _grade_ of society, from the
+monarch to the meanest slave, he is also fond of instrumental music,
+even to a passion, and a European fiddler (provided he be not blind,)
+with no very extraordinary pretensions to excellence in his profession,
+might travel with ease and comfort, even if he were destitute of a
+single cowry, from Badagry to Bornou. He would be received every where
+with open arms, lodged in palaces, and sumptuously fed; although he
+might, perhaps, feel some trifling inconvenience from excess of
+kindness, and compulsory detention for a day or two in the principal
+cities. But, notwithstanding their strong partiality for this kind of
+music, the instruments of the Africans are of the rudest description. A
+large drum, made from the trunk of a tree, and covered with sheep-skin;
+a long brass trumpet, from Barbary; the Arab fiddle, and a kind of
+dulcimer, formed of bamboo, and played upon with two little sticks, are
+great favorites in all the interior countries. The people have also
+guitars, bag-pipes, and tubes of iron, which answer the purpose of tin
+plates, the sound produced being very similar to the noise of those
+instruments; but a little flute, like a child’s penny whistle in
+England, is most admired by the Africans; and of all their music this is
+certainly the most harmonious. Yet even on these instruments they
+perform most vilely, and produce a horribly discordant noise, which may,
+perhaps, be delightful to their own ears; but to strangers, if they have
+the misfortune to be too near the performers, no sounds can be more
+harsh and disagreeable than such a concert.
+
+Of all the amusements of the Africans, none can equal their song and
+dance in the still, clear hours of night, when the moon, walking in
+beauty in the heavens, awakens all the milder affections of their
+nature, and invites them to gladness and mirth. As soon as this splendid
+luminary appears above the horizon, every individual, both slave and
+free, is on the alert,—some to fetch wood from a neighbouring forest,
+and others to procure provisions in the village; and forming themselves
+in a circle, generally round a venerable tree, they prepare large fires,
+in order to frighten away any wild beasts that may be prowling near the
+spot, and begin their country dance, which does not differ from one
+extremity of the continent to the other. I have often been a party to
+these innocent entertainments, which are frequently kept up with
+inconceivable spirit and agility, till the approach of morning; and as
+often been delighted with the perfect harmony and kindly feeling that
+prevailed amongst the dancers. It produces a pleasing and romantic
+effect, to observe the silvery light of the moon, blending with the
+radiance of the flames, and thrown upon the sable countenances of the
+happy group,—as well as the lengthened reflection of the majestic tree
+cast along the ground, and the moving figures, gliding like shadows
+across it.
+
+On these occasions all care is completely laid aside, and every one
+delivers himself up to the dissipation of the moment, without a thought
+of the morrow, his heart having no _vacuum_ for melancholy
+anticipations. During the intervals of the dance and song, the party
+either eat and drink, or re-kindle the fires, after which they begin
+again with renewed ardour. Their songs are composed extempore by one of
+the party, who recites to his or her companions, and they all join in
+the strain. They do not contain many poetical beauties, but allude
+generally to the dancers themselves, to the dread of wild beasts, or
+commands or entreaties for a particular person to fetch wood. The
+following, sung in my presence, may serve as a translated specimen of
+all of them:—
+
+
+  Come, let us join the dance and song,
+
+      The moon is bright in heaven;
+
+  No anxious cares to us belong,
+
+      To cloud this lovely even.
+
+
+  The white man midst our festive glee—
+
+      Forgets his father-land;
+
+  And the group laughs around our tree
+
+      By gentle zephyrs fann’d.
+
+
+  Haste, Nalla,[7] to yon forest shade,
+
+      And feed the flickering flame;
+
+  How swiftly flies the panting maid
+
+      To earn a deathless name![8]
+
+
+  The panther’s yell—the lion’s roar—
+
+      Resound from wood to wood;
+
+  How gladly would they spill our gore!
+
+      How gladly lap our blood!
+
+
+  But we are safe—they dare not come
+
+      To mar our evening sport;
+
+  Scared by the fire, or sounding drum,
+
+      They other pleasures court.
+
+
+  Then join the merry dance and song;
+
+      The moon is high in heaven;
+
+  No anxious cares to us belong,
+
+      To cloud this lovely even.
+
+
+When heard at a distance, in the midst of solitary woods, the vocal
+music of the natives has a pleasing plaintive effect, equalling in
+softness any I have heard in more civilized countries; and Captain
+Clapperton and myself used to remain awake in our tent for hours
+together, listening to its melancholy strains.
+
+It is not to be expected that after these midnight revelries the people
+are in a condition to rise at a very early hour; indeed the generality
+of Africans are constitutionally inclined to indolence, a disease which
+the relaxing nature of their climate by no means tends to lessen; and
+when not _obliged_ to labour, they feel no desire to over-exert
+themselves, or to shake off their drowsiness, except from a call of
+necessity. Their soil, in fact, in most parts is so surprisingly rich
+and productive, as to supersede the necessity of that laborious manual
+exertion which the cultivation of it requires in many other regions; and
+in the absence of all intellectual amusements, they dole away the sultry
+hours of noon in sleeping, lounging about from place to place,
+gossiping, smoking, or drinking.
+
+
+                                SLAVERY.
+
+
+Slavery, from time immemorial, has flourished in every nation and
+amongst every people in the interior countries, and seems to be
+implanted so deeply in the soil, that the slightest hope cannot be
+entertained of its being speedily outrooted. The slave, however, in most
+interior districts, is treated with infinitely greater lenity and
+kindness than among the less civilized natives of the sea coast; and the
+condition of the slaves of European planters is not to be compared with
+his, for happiness and comfort. If his character be good, and his
+honesty unquestioned, the slave of the African is admitted into the
+house of his master, placed on an equality with himself and male
+children, thrusts his hand into the same bowl of tuah as they, shares
+their confidence, and participates in all their pleasures and
+amusements. An instance is never known of a dependant, having an
+unblemished character, and active industrious habits, being sent to the
+coast, to be sold; in fact, every one considers this to be the greatest
+punishment that can be inflicted upon him,—the idea of the whites eating
+their countrymen, and dyeing their clothes red with their blood, being
+as general and as deeply-rooted as in the nations through which Mr. Park
+travelled twenty or thirty years ago. Those sent to the sea-side from
+the interior are invariably the scum and refuse of the
+country,—freebooters, lawless refractory fellows, adulterers, and even
+murderers. Upon the whole, I should consider the situation of the
+domestic slave of Africa (their relative feelings compared), to be more
+enviable than that of the household servant of Europe, inasmuch as a
+feeling of dependence never enters the mind of the former, and, as it
+has already been observed, he is placed in almost every respect on an
+equality with his master.
+
+Nature has wisely endowed the African with a buoyant, cheerful, happy
+temper; so that no calamity, however great,—no grief, however
+poignant,—is capable of making a deep or lasting impression on his mind.
+He does indeed display a lively natural feeling when his infant children
+are snatched forcibly from his embraces, or he himself torn from his
+home, and kindred, and village-tree, to gaze upon strange faces, and
+wander amongst foreign scenes; but this emotion is as evanescent as a
+flash of lightning; he knows no fixed lasting sorrow; past misfortunes
+are quickly swallowed up in present enjoyment, while anticipations of
+the future have no power to harass and perplex him, because it is
+painful for him to think at all, and he does _not_ think. I have often
+seen disobedient slaves, and slaves offered for sale, singing in chains
+and dancing in fetters, suffering at the same time under a loathsome
+disease, and an accumulation of misery, the very _thoughts_ of which
+would melt, even to tears, a sympathizing English philanthropist! For
+their parts, they hardly know what a bitter moment is, and enjoy
+themselves, although under such apparently overwhelming circumstances,
+with as keen a zest as if they had been surrounded by their friends and
+companions, and dancing by the light of the moon, underneath the
+branches of their favourite tree. In their toilsome journeyings from one
+part of the country to another, it must be admitted that the _captured_
+slaves undergo incredible hardships; yet when even they arrive at the
+end of their march, all their woes are buried for ever in a calabash of
+_pitto_ or _otée_, and they are as merry and thoughtless a day or two
+afterwards as they ever were.
+
+On the coast, however, things wear a different and far less agreeable
+aspect; the slaves there are mostly captured from the neighbouring
+states, and, suddenly losing their darling amusements, become melancholy
+and pensive on shipboard. The confined, impure air of the vessel
+augments their sufferings; and when, after landing on an unknown, and to
+them an unlovely soil, they writhe in agony under the excoriating lash
+of the unfeeling planter, because they _cannot_ work, is it to be
+marvelled at that, driven to almost desperation, they become morose,
+unsociable, and headstrong? I have often been a reluctant witness to
+such disgraceful spectacles, and wondered it was in the power of a human
+creature to undergo so rigorous a punishment without a murmur.
+
+
+                        TIMIDITY OF THE NATIVES.
+
+
+A vein of _true_ courage does not exist, I really believe, in any
+individual of the nations we visited. In most savage and half-civilized
+countries, such as the Tonga Islands, and the rarely frequented
+districts of North America, for instance, sparks of noble resolution and
+greatness of soul are oftentimes observable in the natives: but the
+timidity of the African character is every where apparent. The eyes of
+the Gooberites, as well as those of the people of Borghoo, not
+unfrequently flash with a wild expression of ferocity, and their actions
+sometimes correspond with this indication of a barbarous nature, but it
+is not _courage_, and gradually fades at the approach of real danger.
+The people rarely make an attack on each other, or on a common enemy,
+excepting when they have a decided superiority of numbers, or are placed
+under circumstances peculiarly favourable to their operations; and even
+when this is the case, they are more mindful of individual safety than
+the general welfare, trusting rather to their heels than their arms to
+make good their retreat, if the least danger threatens them. They have
+no tradition of a chief amongst them that possessed, when living, a
+calm, unshrinking, persevering spirit; their greatest leaders now (as in
+former years) being all of one stamp, revengeful and passionate in war,
+and if not successful on the first onset, like the lion, making rarely a
+second spring. The Falatahs, who claim all the bravery to themselves,
+are to a man dastardly poltroons, and have met with their astonishing
+good fortune,—not by open, manly courage, but by treachery, deceit, and
+cunning—by imposing on the superstitious fears of the simple aborigines,
+and by artfully insinuating themselves into the good opinion of the very
+people it was their secret intention to enslave, and, like the adder in
+the fable, watching the opportunity to bite the hand that nourished
+them. It would not be well to say that they have greater positive
+courage than the negro, but they have less pusillanimity and more
+shrewdness than he. Not all the glowing pleasures after death, which the
+religion of the Falatah teaches him to expect—not the unshaken belief in
+predestination that prompts the gloomy and enthusiastic Turk to rush
+headlong upon his fate—not the promised enjoyment for ever of the
+seventy-two lovely _houris_ awarded to those that fall in the cause of
+Mohammed—not even the fearful and tremendous war-cry of his countrymen,
+“Allah Ackbar!” (God is victorious!) has the power of arousing the
+energies of the Falatah, or inspiring him with ardour and impetuosity in
+the fight. Securely shielded, as he fancies himself to be, from the
+effects of the arrows and spears of his adversary, by wearing thickly-
+quilted armour, and fortifying himself with Arab charms, the Falatah may
+indeed exhibit an air of defiance for a time; but if any thing occurs to
+stagger his faith in the virtue of his ægis, off he scampers, without
+considering the example he sets his companions, and does not stop till
+he is far beyond the reach of even imaginary danger!
+
+
+                             THE ARTS, &c.
+
+
+Of the imitative arts, painting and sculpture, the Falatah understands
+absolutely nothing; indeed, the former art is almost entirely unknown in
+the interior, whilst the latter, however, is practised amongst the
+natives of Jannah, Yariba, and Borghoo, who have a natural fondness for
+it, and produce various specimens that evince considerable skill in the
+artist. Figures of men, as well as those of snakes, crocodiles, &c. are
+carved in bas-relief by them; and, contrasting the rudeness of the
+instruments used, with the fineness and delicacy of some of the
+indentions, it excites one’s admiration for their persevering industry
+and ingenious labours. The people are acquainted with many of the useful
+arts, such as working in iron, tanning, dyeing, &c. The smiths are
+surprisingly skilful in their profession, and fuse and fashion iron into
+all manner of forms with extraordinary ease and dispatch. Hundreds of
+these useful artizans are scattered over the country, and Nyffé in
+particular swarms with them; they are universally respected, and treated
+with the utmost deference by every rank.
+
+The variety of the dyes of the Africans has been often remarked, and the
+richness and beauty which they maintain, notwithstanding constant
+exposure to the elements, elicit the admiration of even Europeans. The
+exquisite colour of native cottons, in particular, is unrivalled; and
+the art of dyeing is carried to as great a height of perfection in many
+countries in the interior as in the more enlightened portions of the
+world. The art of tanning is also carried on with equal spirit and
+success; and the leather dressed by the natives is equal, if not
+superior, to that manufactured in England. Saddlers, shoemakers, and
+tailors, are to be met with in most nations in Africa, and for ingenuity
+in their respective trades, yield to few.
+
+A smithy in Nyffé, &c. is very similar to that which has been described
+in the celebrated narrative of Mr. Park’s first journey into the
+interior of Africa. The process of the fusion and fashioning of iron is
+exceedingly simple; and notwithstanding the very few tools that are used
+by working smiths, their quickness and ingenuity cannot be excelled,
+even by a European professing the same trade, and who has the advantages
+afforded by an acquaintance with all the rules of art.
+
+
+                        DRY AND WET SEASONS, &c.
+
+
+The air, especially in the dry season, is oppressively hot; and if a
+mist or haze that sometimes hangs between the earth and sky, did not
+intercept the sun’s rays, it would be wholly insupportable. The African
+sky seldom displays the clear, rich ether, or the beautiful and
+evanescent touches of the Italian; but if the appearance of the heavens
+be less lovely to the sight in the former country, by the existence of
+vapoury clouds in the air, the heat is rendered infinitely more
+tolerable by the same cause. Towards the latter part of the dry season,
+and all nature seems parched while withering (except on the margins of
+rivers), the earth is literally baked as hard as flint, while the birds
+and beasts, fluttering and panting in the shades, by their cries and
+moans seem to bewail the absence of rain. But no sooner does the wet
+season set in, than vegetation suddenly springing up, bursts into being;
+a fresh and redundant luxuriance of life breathes and floats around; the
+hills and dales are covered with a delightful verdure; the earth, the
+air, the sky, seem smiling in joy, and refreshed into gladness and
+beauty. Every thing looks cheerful and attractive: the horned cattle
+gambol on the plains, and the sheep and goats frisk on the slopes of
+mountains and hills; man himself appears animated with a new existence;
+pleasure swells in his veins, and dances on his countenance, and he
+enters cordially into the enjoyment which every province of nature
+invites him to partake in common with itself. This is generally during
+the intervals of the showers; it rather _floods_ than _rains_ in Africa,
+and continues without intermission for the space of twelve hours, when
+it suddenly stops, and a cessation of rain for twenty-four hours not
+unfrequently takes place.
+
+The sun setting in Africa is a grand and magnificent object; he then
+appears shorn of his beams, and may be gazed at by the naked eye for any
+length of time, without our experiencing a single painful sensation in
+that delicate organ. When he sinks below the horizon, he looks like a
+huge sphere of burning gold, and the hills (if any) towards the west
+seem as if on fire by the vivid reflection of his rays. Twilight is of
+short duration, and if the moon does not shine, darkness soon covers the
+earth like a veil. In no other country have I seen such cloudless,
+lovely nights, or so mildly beautiful a moon. I do not wonder that the
+natives sometimes adore her; she possesses a soothing, softening
+influence, of which they themselves are susceptible; and there is
+certainly something more captivating in the delightful appearance of so
+resplendent an orb, sailing gracefully through the purple vault of
+heaven, than in the figures of disgusting reptiles and monsters which
+the natives so often worship.
+
+
+                             END OF VOL. I.
+
+
+                               * * * * *
+                         J. B. NICHOLS AND SON,
+                         25, Parliament Street.
+
+
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+
+[Footnote 1: Mr. James was attacked with dysentery on his journey to
+Abomey, but lived to return to Whydah, where he died. It was said that
+he was assassinated by M. de Souza, but this report was not
+authenticated.]
+
+[Footnote 2: George Dawson, an English seaman, was engaged at Badagry,
+as servant to Dr. Morrison, and accompanied that gentleman as far as
+Enguâ, where he died.]
+
+[Footnote 3: A ceremony very similar to that which was formerly in use
+among the Jews, as may be seen by perusing the third verse of the 31st
+Psalm:—“Blow up the trumpet in the new moon, in the time appointed, on
+our solemn feast-day.”]
+
+[Footnote 4: Captain Clapperton and myself procured, whilst in the
+interior, two large pillows, covered with leather, and stuffed full of
+hair, which we found extremely serviceable to us, in consequence of the
+grateful coolness thus imparted during the warm nights of the dry
+season. Instead of laying our heads on the pillow, we used to clasp it
+in our arms, and, when saturated with perspiration, it was thrown aside,
+till becoming dry it was again embraced.]
+
+[Footnote 5: In some counties in England called “ague-cake,” and
+supposed to arise from the effects of intermittent fevers.]
+
+[Footnote 6: A kind of pudding made of flour, butter, and eggs.]
+
+[Footnote 7: A female’s slave.]
+
+[Footnote 8: The act of fetching wood in the night season, by reason of
+the existence of wild beasts in the woods, is considered an enterprize
+of danger; and those who accept the proposal are greatly eulogised, and
+held up as examples for others to copy.]
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's note:
+
+
+  The changes in the ERRATA have been made.
+
+  pg 10 Changed: "of the myterious Niger" to: "mysterious"
+
+  pg 31 Changed: "slavery in in a remote region" to: "slavery in a"
+
+  pg 32 Changed: "brigantine haing been sent" to: "having"
+
+  pg 67 Changed: "were subequently conducted" to: "subsequently"
+
+  pg 127 Changed: "any of the incoveniences we had" to:
+  "inconveniences"
+
+  pg 146 Changed: "their strange-looking anoe" to: "canoe"
+
+  pg 150-151 Changed: "her excescessive plumpness" to: "excessive"
+
+  pg 186 Changed: "the place, amogsnt all classes" to: "amongst"
+
+  pg 199 Changed: "to migitate their sufferings" to: "mitigate"
+
+  pg 212 Changed: "head much about religous matters" to: "religious"
+
+  pg 213 Changed: "this information was comunicated" to:
+  "communicated"
+
+  pg 224 Changed: "The ollowing is a copy of it" to: "following"
+
+  pg 243 Changed: "infested the neigbourhood" to: "neighbourhood"
+
+  pg 300 Changed: "a bouyant, cheerful, happy temper" to: "buoyant"
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78091 ***
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+<body>
+<div style='text-align:center'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78091 ***</div>
+<div class="margins">
+<div class="transnote x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<p class="center">Large-size versions of illustrations are
+available by clicking on them.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><a class="link2" href=
+"https://www.gutenberg.org/files/78092/78092-h/78092-h.htm">Vol.
+2</a>
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="x-ebookmaker-drop space-above2">
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw1">
+<figure id="i1"><a href="images/i1_large.jpg"><img src=
+'images/i1.jpg' alt=''></a>
+<table class="width-full ipub">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl"><em>Drawn by W. Bagg. Jun<sup>r</sup>.</em>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr"><em>Engraved by T. A. Dean.</em>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="cp2">Richard Lander.</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<div class="titlepage">
+<h1><span class="xlarge letter-spaced">RECORDS</span><br>
+<span class="small">OF</span><br>
+<span class="xlarge letter-spaced">CAPTAIN CLAPPERTON’S</span><br>
+LAST EXPEDITION<br>
+<span class="small">TO</span><br>
+<span class="xxlarge bold letter-spaced02">AFRICA:</span></h1>
+
+<p class="center spaced15"><span class="sc">By</span> RICHARD
+LANDER,<br>
+<span class="small">HIS FAITHFUL ATTENDANT, AND THE ONLY
+SURVIVING<br>
+MEMBER OF THE EXPEDITION:</span></p>
+
+<p class="center spaced15"><span class="small">WITH THE</span><br>
+<span class="med">SUBSEQUENT ADVENTURES OF THE AUTHOR.</span>
+</p>
+
+<hr class="decor spaced2 width6">
+
+<p class="center spaced2"><span class="less">IN TWO
+VOLUMES.</span><br>
+VOL. I.</p>
+
+<hr class="decor spaced2 width10">
+
+<p class="publisher"><span class=
+"letter-spaced01">LONDON:</span><br>
+<span class="less">HENRY COLBURN AND RICHARD BENTLEY,</span><br>
+<span class="med">NEW BURLINGTON STREET.</span><br>
+<span class="less">1830.</span>
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2 class="spaced2"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_v">[v]</span><a id="toc"></a><span class=
+"large">CONTENTS</span><br>
+<span class="less">OF THE FIRST VOLUME.</span>
+</h2>
+
+<hr class="decor width5">
+
+<table class="toc">
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr med">Page</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="sc">Introduction</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot"><a href="#intro">ix</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="sc">Sketch of the Author’s Life</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot"><a href="#bio">1</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc large sect"><a href="#c01">CHAPTER
+I.</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">List of the Gentlemen and others engaged
+in the Mission — The Brazen sails from Portsmouth — Touches at the
+Madeiras, Canaries, and Cape de Verd Islands — Pursues and
+overtakes a French slave ship — Falls in with H.M.S. Swinger —
+Arrives and anchors at Sierra Leone — The Author’s first
+illness</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">15</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc large sect"><a href="#c02">CHAPTER
+II.</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">The ship sails again — Captures a Spanish
+schooner with slaves — The natives on the coast come on<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_vi">[vi]</span> board — Vessel anchors at Cape
+Coast — Sails from thence, and captures another slave vessel —
+Arrives at Whydah, where Mr. Dickson lands — His progress through
+the country, and reported death — The Brazen comes to an anchor in
+Badagry Roads — The Gentlemen of the Mission give a last farewell
+to the officers on board, and proceed on shore</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">29</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc large sect"><a href="#c03">CHAPTER
+III.</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">The travellers reach Badagry, and leave
+that city on the 7th of December — Dr. Morrison’s illness — Arrival
+at Latoo — Captain Pearce and the Author attacked with fever —
+Enter Jannah — Continued and alarming illness of the party — Their
+progress — Dr. Morrison returns to Jannah</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">45</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc large sect"><a href="#c04">CHAPTER
+IV.</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">Deaths of Dawson, Captain Pearce, and Dr.
+Morrison — Their funeral — The survivors, after meeting with
+various occurrences, and experiencing the kindest hospitality from
+the natives on their route, arrive at Katunga, the capital of
+Yariba, on the 15th of January, 1826</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">73</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc large sect"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_vii">[vii]</span><a href="#c05">CHAPTER V.</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">Residence at Katunga — Ebo the Eunuch —
+Pantomimic representation by the Yaribeans — Departure from the
+city of Katunga — Arrival at Khiama — Wow Wow — Manners of the
+People — Boussa — Mungo Park</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">108</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc large sect"><a href="#c06">CHAPTER
+VI.</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">Widow Zuma’s Love Adventures — Departure
+from Wow Wow — Arrival at Coulfo — Civil war in Nyffé — Ceremonies
+observed by the people of Coulfo at the end of the Rhamadan —
+Tornado at that place, and its disastrous consequences — The
+Travellers quit Coulfo, and proceed on their journey — The Author
+attacked with dysentery — His sufferings — Noble conduct of Captain
+Clapperton towards him — They enter Zeg Zeg — Arrive at Kano</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">150</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc large sect"><a href="#c07">CHAPTER
+VII.</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">Residence at Kano — Captain Clapperton
+leaves for Soccatoo — History of Pasko, the Houssa Interpreter —
+Pasko’s robberies and confinement — Return of the Captain with the
+Godado, after an ineffectual attempt to reach Soccatoo — His second
+departure from Kano — His Letters</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">198</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc large sect"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_viii">[viii]</span><a href="#c08">CHAPTER VIII.</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">The Author quits Kano to join his Master
+— His illness on the road — Anecdotes of the Natives, and his
+reception by them — Pasko’s new robbery, and elopement — He is
+overtaken, and brought back — The Tuarick merchants — The Author’s
+arrival at Soccatoo, the metropolis of the Falatah empire —
+Residence there — Pasko’s dismissal, conduct, and marriage</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">231</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc large sect"><a href="#c09">CHAPTER
+IX.</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">Religion — Laws — Government —
+Amusements, &amp;c. of the Natives from Badagry to Soccatoo —
+Slavery in the interior countries — Timidity of the people — State
+of the Arts amongst them — Dry and Wet Seasons</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">270</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2 class="large"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_ix">[ix]</span><a id="intro"></a>INTRODUCTION.</h2>
+
+<hr class="decor width5">
+
+<p class="space-above15"><span class="sc">On</span> my return from
+Africa in the summer of 1828, I was so ill with fever and debility,
+that I had neither spirit nor inclination to devote much time to
+the compilation and arrangement of my notes, and of the short
+sketches of character taken by stealth in the heart of that
+continent. My duty and sole design, in laying my Journal before the
+British Government, were to satisfy Ministers with regard to my
+conduct after the decease of Captain Clapperton, my lamented
+master; and to make them acquainted with the manner in which the
+property left in my charge at Soccatoo had been disposed of, in my
+hazardous journey back to the sea-coast. Besides, I had not seen my
+friends in Cornwall<span class="pagenum" id="Page_x">[x]</span> for
+a period little short of thirteen years; and it is quite natural to
+suppose that I should have felt a longing to re-visit the place of
+my nativity, after so protracted and painful an absence. It is not
+to be wondered at, when all this is considered, that my printed
+Narrative, drawn up in haste, and without having received the
+benefit of even the slightest assistance, except from a younger
+brother, should be incomplete, and in many instances carelessly
+expressed.</p>
+
+<p>To remedy, if possible, these defects, and to insert the
+relation of a thousand amusing incidents which had been overlooked,
+I have in the following pages given my Narrative a new and a more
+complete dress; and I sincerely hope that my countrymen will not be
+displeased at my humble but persevering attempts to depict, in true
+colours, the customs and ceremonies of the powerful nations or
+tribes inhabiting that vast tract of country lying between Badagry
+and the beautiful kingdom of Houssa.</p>
+
+<p>The natives of the regions traversed by Captain Clapperton and
+myself ever regarded our writing apparatus with mingled sensations
+of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xi">[xi]</span> alarm and
+jealousy; and fancied, when they observed us using them, that we
+were making <em>fetishes</em> (charms) and enchantments prejudicial
+to their lives and interests. To this cause is attributable the
+absence of many particulars, both in my master’s Journal and my
+own, which, though unimportant in themselves, serve to pourtray,
+and to place in a natural and lively point of view, the most
+conspicuous touches in the character of the African, and gradually
+to develope his passions, prejudices, and remarkable superstitions.
+We were unwilling to raise up enemies against us in a strange land,
+by continuing, in presence of the people, a practice which awakened
+their jealousy, and served only to make us objects of distrust and
+hatred to them all. Hence we were obliged to cherish in our memory
+various particulars which we were unable, at that period, to put on
+paper; contenting ourselves with the hope that, on our return to
+England, we should have ample leisure to devote to the
+accomplishment of that object; this was, however, unfortunately
+frustrated by the decease of Captain Clapperton. I myself
+have<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xii">[xii]</span> consequently
+taken the liberty, in the following pages, of attempting to carry
+into execution the project which that intrepid officer had in
+view—when alive, and in the full hope of returning to his native
+land.</p>
+
+<p>The recreations and songs of the people, as well as their wars,
+laws, religion and government, I have endeavoured faithfully to
+describe. Of course it cannot be expected that a person in my
+humble situation of life should have powers of language sufficient
+to give these descriptions the fullest charm of which they may be
+susceptible: yet I have done the best my poor abilities would allow
+me. I have translated several songs from the figurative language of
+the natives into the English tongue, adopting the similes, and
+copying the mode of expression, as nearly as the idiom of the
+former would permit; while, in the absence of technical terms
+relative to law, &amp;c., I have chosen words which have appeared
+to me the simplest, and which indeed occur most easily to me.</p>
+
+<p>The engagements of the Falatahs with their sable neighbours can
+scarcely fail of being interesting<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_xiii">[xiii]</span> in many points of view; and their manner
+of making war is characteristic of African customs. That
+aggrandizing power, like the government of Russia in Europe, is
+making rapid and gigantic strides towards an enormous despotism;
+and should it hereafter possess so martial and enterprising a ruler
+as its founder, Dandfodio, in the course of a very few years the
+whole of Central and Northern, if not of Western Africa, will be
+under the <em>surveillance</em> of the restless Falatah; and the
+worship of snakes and idols be supplanted by the fanatical tenets
+of Islamism.</p>
+
+<p>The history of the far-famed Borghoo-Arabian lady, widow Zuma,
+is correct in every particular; the elopement of that most bulky
+individual will, it is trusted, be found amusing in the extreme;
+and the whole train of her adventures—her passionate fondness for
+white men—the marvel of her extraordinary plumpness—her excessive
+hospitality—the splendour of her retinue and domestic
+establishment—her inordinate ambition in attempting to dethrone her
+lawful sovereign, the innocent and facetious Mohammed—her mournful
+reverse of fortune—<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_xiv">[xiv]</span>her confinement—the song of her maidens—and
+her last request,—are singularly remarkable, and strongly pourtray
+the disposition and habits of an eminent African belle.</p>
+
+<p>The narrative of Pasko, or rather, I should say, of <em>Abbu
+Becr</em>, our Houssa interpreter, contrasted with that of the
+amiable and accomplished Zuma, will not be found to be altogether
+destitute of attraction, insomuch as it shows the manners and
+superstitions of his countrymen much more pleasingly than a
+laboured description of them would do; while the archness,
+drollery, and dishonesty of the old scoundrel, together with his
+warm and deep attachment to the gentler sex, and his entire
+devotedness to their service, are accurately related, as the
+circumstances which called those various passions into action took
+place.</p>
+
+<p>After the decease of Captain Pearce and Dr. Morrison, when my
+late valued master and myself were the only Europeans left of the
+mission, Captain Clapperton for various reasons thought proper to
+style me his son, and the natives ever after regarded that gallant
+officer as my father.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xv">[xv]</span>
+Surrounded as we were by strange faces and strange scenes, cut off
+from all communication with civilized society, and wandering, far
+from our native country, and all that was truly dear to us, in
+barbarous regions, and oftentimes through long dismal woods, and
+awful solitudes; we became linked to each other by the strongest of
+all ties. Ours, if I may so express myself, were kindred spirits;
+we entered into each other’s views, shared each other’s gladness
+and melancholy, hope and despair, and participated in each other’s
+feelings and amusements. It was for the interest of both to do so.
+It would not have been well for any haughtiness or reserve to be
+manifested towards me under such circumstances, merely because
+accident had thrown me into a lower rank in life than my master;
+and it would have been unfeeling, nay unmanly, when bowed down by
+pain and wretchedness in the heart of Africa, for a British officer
+to refuse, for no other reason, to the humble companion of his
+wanderings that confidence and friendship which he had in some
+measure a right to expect. Such, happily, was<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_xvi">[xvi]</span> not the disposition of Captain
+Clapperton; the difference in our respective conditions was
+willingly levelled, as it certainly ought to have been, by that
+gentleman; and for my part I may justly say, that my attachment for
+him was so great that I would cheerfully have undergone any
+privation rather than that he should have been a sufferer; or, if
+necessity required it, would even have laid down my life with
+pleasure for the preservation of his.</p>
+
+<p>To Capt. Clapperton I owe the existence I enjoy at the present
+moment; and for him I would have sacrificed, and perhaps I
+<em>did</em> sacrifice on particular occasions, every consideration
+of personal comfort or convenience. To “smooth down his lonely
+pillow;” to mingle my hopes, and fears, and distresses, with his;
+and to render the transition from life to eternity as easy as
+possible, were my employments when the unfortunate Captain was
+stretched out upon his death-bed, in a dismal solitary hut in
+Soccatoo; and these services themselves, Heaven knows, carried
+their own reward along with them. The affectionate grasp of the
+hand—the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xvii">[xvii]</span>
+trembling eye—the <em>look</em> of approbation and
+thankfulness—expressed more eloquently and feelingly than words
+could have done the gratitude of my heroic master and preserver for
+my humble endeavours to serve him, when his cup of pain,
+disappointment, and sorrow, was foaming to the brim; and the
+readers of my “Wanderings” will excuse me for dwelling on this
+subject in the chapter devoted to the illness and decease of Capt.
+Clapperton, &amp;c. At this distance of time and place even, I
+reflect on that gloomy and distressing period with emotion; I
+recall to my remembrance all that passed there—disease, suffering,
+loneliness, and death; yet do I often wish that my latter end may
+be as gentle as was my master’s; more calm I do not expect it to
+be—less free from pain it cannot be.</p>
+
+<p>After all that I have said on this subject, the charge of having
+assumed too much consequence in speaking so familiarly of Capt.
+Clapperton, will not surely be brought against me; yet in
+conversation I have heard it asserted that this sin was committed
+in my printed journal; but the remark needs no refutation. I have
+not<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xviii">[xviii]</span> chosen to
+alter this imputed consequence in the following narrative, simply
+because there is no apparent necessity for doing so; and in this
+opinion the generality of my countrymen will, I am confident, agree
+with me.</p>
+
+<p>My description of the savage manners and horrid barbarities of
+the people of Badagry, at the celebration of their monthly
+sacrifices, &amp;c. is by no means exaggerated. At present these
+seem unknown to Englishmen; and my reasons for not relating them
+before are already given. I had no intention of having my Journal
+printed, and therefore did not study to render the perusal of it
+interesting by inserting in it observations that did not come
+strictly within the compass of the plan which I had originally laid
+down for myself.</p>
+
+<p>In the composition of the following pages I must acknowledge my
+obligations to a younger brother, and (with the exception of the
+customary revision of the printed sheets) to him alone. I should
+feel both pleasure and pride in expressing, in this place, my
+gratitude for even a hint received from any other quarter; but
+as<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xix">[xix]</span> this has not,
+even in a solitary instance, been the case, I have no such thanks
+to offer. Although unused to composition, my brother devoted,
+during the past summer, the little leisure which relaxation from
+his daily labour afforded him, to the office of copying my notes
+and observations, and putting them into something like arrangement.
+Having become impressed with my thoughts, he has “turned them to
+shape,” and, entering warmly into my feelings, he has depicted my
+emotions, even as I felt them; and the public will best discern
+whether they are true to nature or not.</p>
+
+<p>I beg to introduce this little Work to the notice of my
+countrymen with the greatest humility. They will not judge of it by
+too severe a standard; they will not—I am sure they will not—accuse
+me of presumption in my feeble attempts to portray the manners and
+peculiarities of a strange people. I have done the utmost to render
+the perusal of my Narrative agreeable; and to give the reader a
+correct idea of the state of society in the interior of Africa. It
+were unreasonable to expect that<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_xx">[xx]</span> my limited knowledge should permit me to give
+a learned or laboured description of regions which had never before
+been visited by Europeans; yet I repeat I have done the best my
+power would allow; and no one will, I think, feel any disposition
+to question the truth of this declaration.</p>
+
+<p class="right pad-right2">THE AUTHOR.</p>
+
+<p class="less pad2"><span class="sc">Truro</span>,<br>
+<em>October</em>, 1829.</p>
+
+<hr class="decor width8">
+
+<p class="space-above15"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_xxi">[xxi]</span>Since the preceding introductory remarks
+were written, His Majesty’s Government have engaged me to proceed
+to Fundah, and trace the river from thence to Benin; so that before
+the public will be put in possession of the following Narrative, in
+all probability, I shall be on my way to the Western Coast of
+Africa. In this new undertaking I shall be accompanied only by my
+brother (John Lander), whose assistance in the composition of this
+work I have already acknowledged; and if energy and perseverance
+can avail us any thing, I have the best reasons for believing that
+it will prove as successful as my most sanguine expectations lead
+me to hope that it will.<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_xxii">[xxii]</span> At all events, nothing shall be wanting
+on our parts to accomplish the object in view. If we be so
+unfortunate as to fail in the object, I may say with confidence and
+without vanity, that it shall not be attributed to a want of proper
+spirit and enterprise; since we have made the fixed determination
+to risk every thing, even life itself, towards its final
+accomplishment. We shall endeavour to conform ourselves, as nearly
+as possible, to the manners and habits of the natives; we will not
+mock their blind superstition, but respect it; we will not scoff at
+their institutions, but bow to them; we will not condemn their
+prejudices, but pity them. In fine, we shall do all in our power to
+ward off suspicion as to the integrity of our motives, and the
+innocency of our intentions; and this cannot be done more
+effectually than by mingling with the people in their general
+amusements and diversions. Confidence<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_xxiii">[xxiii]</span> in ourselves, and in them, will be our
+best panoply; and an English Testament our safest <em>fetish</em>.
+Clothed in <em>this</em> armour, by the blessing of God, we have
+not much to fear; but if, by any casualty or unforeseen misfortune,
+we perish in Africa, and are seen no more, even then our fate will
+not be more dismal than that of many of our predecessors in the
+same pursuit, whose gallant enterprising spirits have sunk into
+darkness, without a voice to record their melancholy end. If
+<em>this</em> should be our case, our countrymen may, perhaps, be
+moved to respect our memory; and, at all events, it is some
+consolation to know that the gap we may make in society will
+scarcely be observed at all; or, if observed, soon filled up:</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0">“For we to the world are like a drop of
+water</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">&nbsp;That in the ocean falls.”</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="less pad2"><em>London</em>,<br>
+<em>Dec.</em> 1829.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2 class="less"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_xxiv">[xxiv]</span><a id="toi"></a>LIST OF
+ILLUSTRATIONS.</h2>
+
+<table class="toi">
+<tr>
+<td>Portrait of Richard Lander</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot"><a href="#i1">Frontispiece.</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Pelicans feeding their young</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">vol. II. <a href=
+"https://www.gutenberg.org/files/78092/78092-h/78092-h.htm#i2">p.
+16</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Funeral of Captain Clapperton</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot"><a href=
+"https://www.gutenberg.org/files/78092/78092-h/78092-h.htm#i3">78</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Fainting Scene</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot"><a href=
+"https://www.gutenberg.org/files/78092/78092-h/78092-h.htm#i4">93</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Crossing the streams at Yariba</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot"><a href=
+"https://www.gutenberg.org/files/78092/78092-h/78092-h.htm#i5">215</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Heads of Natives with Tattoo marks</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot"><a href=
+"https://www.gutenberg.org/files/78092/78092-h/78092-h.htm#i6">218</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Ordeal by Poison</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot"><a href=
+"https://www.gutenberg.org/files/78092/78092-h/78092-h.htm#i7">257</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<hr class="decor width10">
+
+<h2 class="nopb less"><a id="err"></a>ERRATA.</h2>
+
+<ul class="simple1">
+<li>Page <a href="#Page_89">89,</a> for Kang read
+<em>Kong</em>.</li>
+
+<li>Page <a href="#Page_156">156,</a> omit the preposition
+“<em>to</em>” after “lead me.”</li>
+
+<li>From p. <a href="#Page_134">134</a> to p. 269, for Soccasoo
+read <em>Soccatoo</em>.</li>
+
+<li>At the head of chap. II. p. 29, for Cape Coast read
+<em>Papoe</em>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2 class="spaced2"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_1">[1]</span><a id="bio"></a><span class=
+"large letter-spaced01">SKETCH</span><br>
+<span class="small">OF THE</span><br>
+<span class="large"><span class="letter-spaced01">AUTHOR’S
+LIF</span>E.</span>
+</h2>
+
+<hr class="decor spaced2 width8">
+
+<p><span class="sc">Many</span> allusions to my earlier history
+occurring in the following pages, it may not, perhaps, be deemed
+impertinent on my part, if I should attempt to give a short and
+hasty sketch of my life, devoted as it has been to perpetual
+wandering, and chequered by a thousand misfortunes.</p>
+
+<p>My family is as ancient, I dare say, as that of any upon the
+face of the earth, although, notwithstanding the profoundest
+research, I have been unable to trace its descent, with
+genealogical accuracy and precision, to a more<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_2">[2]</span> remote era than the period of my
+grandfather’s nonage; the history of all my ancestors previous to
+him, being either mixed with fable, or involved in doubt and
+uncertainty. If the ancient saying of the people of Cornwall,
+that,</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0">“By Tre, Pol, <em>Lan</em>, and
+<em>Pen</em>,</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">&nbsp;You may know most
+Cornishmen,”</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="nind">be entitled to credit, then undoubtedly my family
+is of pure Cornish extraction; and I would respectfully suggest
+that it has a double claim, in the present generation, to the
+enviable distinction of antiquity, my mother’s maiden name being
+<em>Pen</em>-rose, and my father’s name <em>Lan</em>-der. Thus much
+for my pedigree; and I have the solitary satisfaction of boasting
+of at least one celebrated character in its humble records, my
+grandfather, by my mother’s side, who was a noted wrestler in his
+day, and lived some fifty years since near the Land’s End.</p>
+
+<p>I am the fourth of six children, and was born at Truro, in
+Cornwall, in 1804, on the very day on which Colonel Lemon was
+elected Member of Parliament for the Borough. Owing to<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_3">[3]</span> this striking coincidence,
+singular as it may seem, my father, who was fond of sounding
+appellations, at the simple suggestion of the doctor who attended
+the family, added <em>Lemon</em> to my baptismal name of Richard:
+an example of the trivial means by which people are oftentimes
+accommodated with an extra name. As nothing remarkable occurred for
+the first five or six years after I came into the world, I shall
+pass them over in silence, simply observing, that when yet in
+infancy, whilst I was in the act of gazing one morning at something
+attached to the ceiling of my father’s stable, a piece of iron,
+having a sharpened edge, fell and entered my forehead; which
+accident was of so serious a nature that I was ill for several
+weeks, and narrowly escaped with life.</p>
+
+<p>My rambling inclinations began to display themselves in early
+youth. I was never easy a great while together in one place, and
+used to be delighted to play truant and stroll from town to town,
+and from village to village, whenever I could steal an opportunity
+as well; as to mix in the society of boys possessing<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_4">[4]</span> restless habits and inclinations
+similar to my own. I used also to listen with unmixed attention to
+old women’s tales about the manners and ceremonies of the natives
+of distant regions of the earth, and never felt greater pleasure
+than when, dangling me on their knees, or stroking down my face
+with their aged hands, they used to say, “you will be sure to see
+two kingdoms, Richard, for you have two <em>crowns upon your
+head</em>!” Their marvellous descriptions of monsters existing,
+they affirmed, in remote lands, likewise conspired to raise in me a
+longing to be a traveller; for the venerable matrons of my native
+county, moving in the humbler walks of life, like those of most
+other counties and nations, are fond of the wonderful, and
+endeavour to stamp a love of it in the tender mind of youth with
+all the solemnity and earnestness of age and belief. These tales,
+how incredible soever they might have been, made a deep and
+permanent impression on my thoughts; and though so very young, I
+formed a resolution, or rather felt a strong and violent
+inclination to become a wanderer, in order that the story of
+<em>my</em><span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">[5]</span> adventures
+might one day rival in interest those to which I had listened with
+so devout an attention; perhaps also a childish feeling of pride
+entered my bosom as I used to say to myself: “And when I shall have
+returned from such and such a place, and seen all the strange
+sights in them, my former companions will look upon me with a
+mixture of wonder and admiration, and I shall excite the envy of
+the other boys.”</p>
+
+<p>Thus the first period of my life flew swiftly away; and I was no
+more than nine years of age, as nearly as my memory, at this
+distance of time, will allow me to guess, when owing to a series of
+domestic misfortunes, which it would be a tedious and unpleasant
+task here to particularise, I left the paternal roof, and have ever
+since been almost a stranger in the place of my nativity.</p>
+
+<p>The frequent observation of my lamented mother, “Remember, my
+poor child, the old proverb, ‘a rolling stone gathers no moss,’”
+has been entirely thrown away upon me, for between necessity and
+choice I have ever been in<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_6">[6]</span> motion; and with respect to “<em>moss</em>,”
+taken in its figurative signification, I have certainly, in my own
+person, verified the truth of the homely adage above alluded to,
+scarcely ever having been able to retain a single handful in my
+grasp for any length of time together.</p>
+
+<p>At the early age of eleven years I accompanied a mercantile
+gentleman to the West Indies, and whilst in St. Domingo was
+attacked with the fever of the country, suffering so severely under
+its influence that my life was despaired of; but, owing chiefly to
+the kindness and attention I experienced from some benevolent and
+sympathizing Negro females, joined to my youth and a naturally
+vigorous constitution, I recovered my wonted health, and after an
+absence of three years returned to my native country in 1818. From
+that period till the attainment of my 19th year, I lived in the
+service of various noblemen and gentlemen, one of whom I
+accompanied to France, and other countries on the Continent; when,
+hearing on my return to London, that Major Colebrook, one of His
+Majesty’s Commissioners of Inquiry into the<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_7">[7]</span> State of the British Colonies, was in want
+of an individual to proceed with him in the capacity of servant, I
+quitted the office I then held, and procured the vacant situation
+with little difficulty. With this gentleman I embarked from
+Portsmouth on board the Lady Campbell, which weighed anchor on the
+thirteenth of February, 1823, and after a stormy and hazardous
+voyage of nearly five months, arrived in Simmons’s Bay, South
+Africa, on the 13th of July following. During the passage our
+unfortunate vessel, in which were upwards of forty ladies and
+gentlemen (passengers) with twenty servants, very nearly escaped
+destruction no less than three times. In the first instance, she
+encountered a heavy gale on the 8th of March, in which she lost her
+rudder, and leaked four feet of water in the hold. After being
+buffeted about by the wind and waves for four or five days, her
+distressed condition was observed by a small French brig belonging
+to L’Orient, which towed her into that port. There she was laid up
+for six weeks, in order that the serious damage she had sustained
+might be repaired;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">[8]</span>
+when, on the 1st of May, she again set sail. On the 10th of June
+following, a lady, passing near the gun-room, discovered it to be
+on fire, and immediately gave the alarm. After incredible
+exertions, and still greater noise, hurry, bustle, and confusion,
+the progress of the flames was arrested, and the fire finally
+extinguished, to the no small gratification of every one on board,
+who feared, and with justice, that from the proximity of the
+gun-room to the powder-magazine the most imminent danger was to be
+apprehended. This was not the last fright we experienced, for on
+the night of entering Simmons’s Bay the vessel unfortunately struck
+on a rock called by seamen “The Noah’s Ark,” but was happily lifted
+by the swell of the sea from her perilous situation, without being
+materially damaged by the shock; and nothing worthy of notice
+occurred till her arrival before Cape Town, Cape of Good Hope, as
+above mentioned.</p>
+
+<p>After accompanying Major Colebrook in his journeyings from one
+extremity of that important colony to the other,—for a reason which
+it would be superfluous in this place to adduce,<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_9">[9]</span> I left his service, and sailing
+from Cape Town, arrived in England in 1824. I had not been many
+weeks in the metropolis before I accepted of a situation in the
+establishment of a kinsman to the Duke of Northumberland, where my
+time passed away pleasantly and thoughtlessly enough; till the
+return of Captain Clapperton and Major Denham from the interior of
+Africa, in the following year, again aroused my rambling
+propensities, and I could not help reproaching myself for having
+remained so long a time in a state of comparative indolence.
+Determined from that hour to embrace the first favourable chance of
+once more quitting my native shores, to whichever part of the globe
+fate or fortune might destine me, I waited impatiently for
+something to take place in furtherance of the object I had most at
+heart; and an opportunity soon offered itself that promised to
+gratify my fondest and warmest inclinations, as well as amply to
+satisfy the inordinate desire I could not suppress of visiting
+foreign countries.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">[10]</span>Having heard that
+it was the intention of the British Government to send out another
+expedition for the purpose of exploring the yet undiscovered parts
+of central Africa, and of endeavouring to ascertain the source,
+progress, and termination, of the mysterious Niger; and the attempt
+coinciding exactly with my long-cherished wishes, I instantly
+waited upon the late Captain Clapperton, who I was told was to be
+placed at its head, and expressed to that brave and spirited
+officer the great eagerness I felt to become a party, however
+humble, to the novel and hazardous undertaking into which he was
+about to enter. The Captain listened to me with attention, and
+after I had answered a few interrogations, willingly engaged me to
+be his confidential servant. In this interview the keen,
+penetrating eye of the African traveller, did not escape my
+observation; and by its fire, energy, and quickness, denoted, in my
+own opinion at least, the very soul of enterprize and
+adventure.</p>
+
+<p>Having made the necessary arrangements, I entered with a light
+heart upon my new duties, and enjoyed the thoughts of following the
+bias<span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">[11]</span> of my own
+inclination with as great a zest as if the path of my future life
+had been strewed with flowers.</p>
+
+<p>I had not, however, adopted this line of conduct without deep
+reflection on the difficulties that would, in all probability,
+accompany it. The destruction that had overwhelmed former
+travellers, engaged in the same pursuit, was by no means unfamiliar
+to me; and the melancholy story of Mungo Park and his companions in
+misfortune, in particular, had often crossed my thoughts. I felt a
+degree of shuddering sympathy for those enterprizing individuals,
+(heightened perhaps by the cloud of darkness in which their latter
+end was shrouded,) which no fictitious tale of woe had been ever
+able to excite in my bosom; yet even this failed in staggering my
+resolution, or overcoming my early and deeply-rooted
+prejudices.</p>
+
+<p>There was a charm in the very sound of Africa, that always made
+my heart flutter on hearing it mentioned: whilst its boundless
+deserts of sand; the awful obscurity in which many of the interior
+regions were enveloped; the<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_12">[12]</span> strange and wild aspect of countries that had
+never been trodden by the foot of a European, and even the very
+failure of all former undertakings to explore its hidden wonders,
+united to strengthen the determination I had come to, of embracing
+the earliest opportunity of penetrating into the interior of that
+immense Continent.</p>
+
+<p>In vain my London acquaintances urged upon me the risk I should
+incur of finding a grave in Africa; and equally vain were the kind
+representations of a medical gentleman of the metropolis, who
+painted to me in lively colours the imminent danger to which my
+life would be exposed, by reason of my youth, inexperience, and
+habit of body. I disregarded all the counsel that the world could
+give me, and perhaps secretly depended on the strength of an
+unimpaired constitution to support me in sickness, and bring me out
+of every difficulty; so prone are we to indulge the belief that
+there is a something different, a latent excellence within us,
+which does not belong to the persons<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_13">[13]</span> or characters of the rest of the world; and
+so just is the observation of the poet, that</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0">“All men think all men mortal but
+themselves.”</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>As soon as my relatives in Cornwall were made acquainted with
+the step I was about to take, they expressed the deepest concern
+and sorrow, and sent me numbers of letters, couched in the simple
+and affectionate language of nature, expressive of their feelings,
+and endeavouring to dissuade me from proceeding to a region they
+all so greatly and justly dreaded. George Croker Fox, Esq. a highly
+respectable gentleman, residing at Grove Hill, near Falmouth, with
+the spirit of amiable benevolence by which he is so peculiarly
+distinguished, also exerted himself in the same object, promising
+that if my determination to leave England was fixed, rather than
+that I should expose myself to the dangers to be apprehended from
+African exploration, he would procure me a more lucrative situation
+in one of the South American republics. But no inducement under the
+sun could make me swerve, even in thought, from the line
+of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">[14]</span> duty I had laid
+down for myself; or cool the ardour that warned me to attempt, at
+least, the accomplishment of the great object towards which my
+earliest thoughts had been intently directed. Indeed, I had already
+gone too far to recede; and leaving the metropolis with Captain
+Clapperton, I arrived at Portsmouth, in order to embark in the
+Brazen sloop of war, Captain Willis, on the 24th of August, 1825,
+being then in the 21st year of my age.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<p class="center spaced2 pb"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_15">[15]</span><span class=
+"large letter-spaced01">WANDERINGS</span><br>
+<span class="small">IN</span><br>
+<span class="large"><span class=
+"letter-spaced01">AFRIC</span>A.</span>
+</p>
+
+<hr class="decor width5">
+
+<h2 class="nopb"><a id="c01"></a>CHAPTER I.</h2>
+
+<p class="csum">List of the Gentlemen and others engaged in the
+Mission — The Brazen sails from Portsmouth — Touches at the
+Madeiras, Canaries, and Cape de Verd Islands — Pursues and
+overtakes a French slave ship — Falls in with H.M.S. Swinger —
+Arrives and anchors at Sierra Leone — The Author’s first
+illness.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">On</span> arriving at Portsmouth with Captain
+Clapperton, I found the following gentlemen, his associates in the
+mission, waiting for him:—Captain Pearce, R.N. an amiable
+individual, but whose frame was much too delicate for the arduous
+task he had undertaken; Dr. Morrison, a navy surgeon; and Dr.
+Dickson, a Scotchman, who had served as a surgeon for a long
+period<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">[16]</span> in the West
+Indies. These were attended by Columbus, a West Indian mulatto, who
+had accompanied Major Denham in the previous journey; Pasko, a
+black, native of Haussa; and myself.</p>
+
+<p>We embarked on the 27th of August, 1825; and, a light breeze
+springing up from the north-east, the vessel got under weigh and
+made sail, the shores of England gradually lessening from our view.
+After touching at Porto Santo, the least of the Madeiras, on the
+8th September, where the Gentlemen of the Mission landed and
+obtained various specimens of plants and minerals, the vessel
+dropped anchor at Santa Cruz, Teneriffe, on the 13th of the same
+month. Next day, Captain Clapperton and his coadjutors, accompanied
+by three officers of the Brazen, went on shore to make an excursion
+to the Peak; but my master being taken suddenly unwell on the road
+from Santa Cruz, was obliged to remain at Oratavia, a fine but
+irregularly built town, situated at the base of a cluster of
+mountains, out of which rises the celebrated Peak, from which it is
+distant about four or<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">[17]</span>
+five miles. The travellers having accomplished the object of their
+jaunt, came back with minerals, &amp;c. complaining sadly of
+fatigue. On the 16th, we returned to Santa Cruz, the rugged nature
+of the roads, together with the stubborn disposition of the asses
+with which we were accommodated, being in great measure overlooked
+by the mirthful humour and innocent jocularity of our native
+guides, who enlivened us by singing and playing on guitars nearly
+the whole of the way to the capital, frequently interrupting
+themselves by shouting “Long live the English!” The inhabitants
+were mostly employed in gathering in the grapes, with which the
+island abounds; and we were met on the road by great numbers of
+them with mules and asses loaded with this delicious fruit,
+returning to their respective habitations.</p>
+
+<p>On the 16th the Brazen again set sail with a fair wind; and on
+the 24th following arrived at St. Antonia, one of the Cape de Verd
+islands, where Captain Clapperton landed, as on former occasions,
+and obtained minerals, &amp;c. from its lofty mountains. The vessel
+weighed anchor<span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">[18]</span> the
+same evening, and nothing requiring particular observation occurred
+for several days, the wind continuing tolerably fair, but
+squally.</p>
+
+<p>On the 4th of October, a small schooner came in sight, and
+supposing she had slaves on board, the Brazen chased and overtook
+her. She proved, however, to be a Russian merchant vessel, bound
+for Pernambuco, and was of course suffered to proceed on her voyage
+as soon as the error was discovered. On the 8th of the same month
+another sail was descried, and suspecting also that she was engaged
+in the nefarious traffic in slaves, we pursued and boarded her. The
+suspicions were confirmed on discovering 196 human beings in this
+French schooner (which was bound for St. Domingo) chained together
+in couples, and literally crammed between decks, which being barely
+three feet in height the slaves were obliged to remain in a sitting
+posture whilst they stayed on board. So strong and disagreeable an
+odour proceeded from the confined place in which these poor
+creatures were huddled, that the air was tainted<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_19">[19]</span> with it, and I hastened on board
+the Brazen as fast as I could; shortly after which the French
+vessel proceeded with her living cargo to the place of her
+destination.</p>
+
+<p>On the 19th the Brazen fell in with H.M. ship Swinger, on a
+cruise. This vessel had lost nineteen men with fever, and was short
+of provisions and water. After relieving her wants, and sending a
+doctor on board, we continued our course with a fair light breeze,
+and on the 21st entered the river of Sierra Leone.</p>
+
+<p>The day after our arrival I went on shore, and sauntered alone
+through Free Town, visiting the church and other public buildings.
+I was grieved to see that sacred edifice converted into a
+market-place, and buyers and sellers indecently disputing and
+wrangling in the temple of God. The colony was rather sickly, and
+the great number of deaths which had recently taken place
+sufficiently attested the extreme unhealthiness of that immense
+“charnel-house.” The country in the neighbourhood of the town is
+rich and fertile, producing in great abundance<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_20">[20]</span> many kinds of fruits and vegetables. West
+Indian, and other tropical productions are cultivated with success,
+and to a great extent, on the banks of the river. Cattle and
+poultry, which are of inferior size and description, are
+excessively scarce and dear; but the inhabitants do not seem to
+feel much interested in the improvement of the breed of their
+domestic animals. The grass in the colony, though apparently rich
+and luxuriant, contains in reality but little nutriment; and to
+this cause, more than to any other, the sorry condition of the
+cattle is attributable.</p>
+
+<p>The Kroomen, great numbers of whom reside at Sierra Leone, are a
+fine athletic people; active, clean, and industrious. They have a
+village at no great distance from Free Town, which I visited. It
+consists of a great number of huts, most of which have a little
+meadow-land, or garden, attached to them; but a very small portion
+of the soil is cultivated in its vicinity, the male inhabitants
+being generally employed by the masters of European vessels
+visiting Sierra<span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">[21]</span>
+Leone, who find them extremely serviceable. Notwithstanding their
+intercourse with the English and other European nations, which has
+been preserved for so long a period, the Kroomen still retain their
+native costume, which consists simply of a piece of cotton cloth,
+tied carelessly round the waist, and extending to the knees. Almost
+the whole of them have obtained a smattering of the English tongue,
+in which they pride themselves; whilst many of the more intelligent
+can converse in it with tolerable fluency. Upwards of twenty
+different languages, it is said, are spoken by the mixed population
+of the colony, who have been principally captured from the slave
+vessels of the Portuguese or Spaniards, and have been brought from
+many of the interior countries.</p>
+
+<p>On the 23d I again went on shore with my gun, to shoot in a
+savannah at a short distance from the town, in which I remained a
+great part of the day, amongst high coarse grass and thick jungle,
+indiscreetly exposing my head to the scorching rays of a vertical
+sun; in consequence<span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">[22]</span>
+of which I was attacked in the evening with giddiness of the head,
+and other symptoms of fever; but having been bled copiously, and
+having taken proper medicine, the progress of the disease was for
+the time arrested. My illness, which was not particularly severe,
+was of short duration, and I fondly expected that this was but the
+<em>seasoning</em> every European should be prepared to encounter
+on visiting tropical countries.</p>
+
+<p>Having taken in her supplies of fresh water and provisions, the
+Brazen got under weigh on the 27th of October, and made sail for
+Cape Coast, with a fresh breeze from the south-east. On the
+following day a thunder-storm arose, accompanied by heavy and
+continued rain and vivid flashes of lightning, which lasted for
+several hours; and on the 2d of November a sail being perceived at
+some distance, the ship gave her chase, and on coming up with her,
+she proved to be the Fortune, a Spanish schooner, with thirty-five
+slaves only on board, not having then received her full complement.
+The vessel was immediately captured, and sent back to Sierra Leone.
+Next day another sail was discovered,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_23">[23]</span> and being overtaken, was found to be a French
+brig from Martinique, waiting for a cargo of human beings.</p>
+
+<p>On the 5th the natives came out to meet the Brazen in canoes,
+with yams, plantains, bananas, cassada, and other productions of
+the country, which they bartered for tobacco, that article being in
+great request with them. Their canoes were lightly and ingeniously
+constructed, and propelled through the water with singular
+swiftness and dexterity, the rowers performing their laborious task
+in a kneeling posture. They were completely destitute of clothing
+of any kind.</p>
+
+<p>On the 7th we were honored with a visit from the Kroo king, who
+is a jet black of goodly stature, and of simple but prepossessing
+manners. On his head the sable monarch had a European hat, and
+across his loins was fastened a plain piece of cotton cloth
+purchased from the English. He wore a necklace of
+<em>gris-gris</em> (charms or amulets) made of leather, in the
+merits of which he seemed to repose implicit confidence, believing
+himself the most fortunate<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_24">[24]</span> of men in having it in his possession; and as
+long as that was the case, he asserted, neither demon nor human
+being could in any wise injure him.</p>
+
+<p>One of his majesty’s attendants, as blindly superstitious as his
+sovereign, to put the virtues of <em>his</em> amulet to the test,
+entreated me several times to discharge a musket loaded with ball
+at him, at the distance of only a few yards, which, when I refused
+to do, he appeared to be considerably chagrined and disappointed,
+and went away muttering that the English were the most uncivil
+people in the world.</p>
+
+<p>The following day, although the ship was at the distance of
+several miles from the shore, others of the natives came alongside,
+differing but little in external appearance from their neighbours
+who had visited us on the former occasions: but in addition to
+their other ornaments, they wore iron rings round the neck, with
+little bells of the same metal appended, which, on the slightest
+movement of the wearer, made a jingling noise not unlike bells hung
+to the necks of waggon-horses in England. The<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_25">[25]</span> Cape Palmas king, accompanied by a great
+number of his subjects, also condescended to come on board on the
+9th. He is a powerful athletic man, having a bold expression of
+countenance, but of gentle and social habits, and he was graciously
+pleased to converse freely with any one on deck, who felt disposed,
+or had patience enough to listen to his remarks.</p>
+
+<p>There was this peculiarity in the appearance of his majesty’s
+followers: their heads were shaved either partially or wholly, and
+the hair of those that had any being cut into a thousand fantastic
+modes and forms, looked exceedingly grotesque. Many of the tribes
+on the coast, indeed, appear to devote a large portion of their
+time to dressing and ornamenting their hair, which in some
+districts is plaited and braided with much care, and peculiar taste
+and neatness. Others friz out the hair like the natives of the
+Tonga islands, and as it is anointed with a species of red clay,
+softened with palm-oil, which is found in great abundance on the
+coast, it adds greatly to the ferocity of their appearance.</p>
+
+<p>The Brazen continued her course with a<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_26">[26]</span> tolerably fair wind but heavy showers, and
+having passed several towns and villages, the inhabitants of some
+of which occasionally visited her in canoes, arrived at Cape Coast
+on the 14th, at one <span class="sc2">P.M.</span></p>
+
+<p>Cape Coast castle is a strongly-built stone fortification,
+capable of containing within its walls the whole of the population
+of the town it defends; the habitations of which are constructed in
+much the same style as those with which the whole line of coast is
+thickly studded; being built of earth, and thatched with rushes,
+interlaced with palm-leaves.</p>
+
+<p>A great number of people have settled in the town from the
+interior countries; but by far the major part of the inhabitants
+are Fantees, who have voluntarily placed themselves under the
+protection of the British fortress, in order the more effectually
+to secure to themselves the blessings of peace, and preserve their
+property from the rapacity of their more restless countrymen, and
+the neighbouring nations.</p>
+
+<p>Cleanliness is by no means a characteristic of the Fantees at
+Cape Coast, animal and vegetable substances being allowed to
+accumulate and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">[27]</span>
+putrify in the streets, from which is exhaled so noxious an
+effluvium, that the air, impregnated with it, is rendered extremely
+insalubrious, particularly to Europeans.</p>
+
+<p>It is perhaps a fortunate circumstance, that vultures, attracted
+by the intolerable odour, resort thither in vast numbers,
+voraciously devouring the filth which the indolent inhabitants are
+either too lazy or too <em>ignorant</em> to remove; for they cannot
+be persuaded that disease of any kind is engendered by such means.
+If this had not been the case, it would be a miracle indeed that
+Europeans should exist in the town many weeks; and even the
+Africans themselves, in all likelihood, would speedily fall victims
+to pestilential disorders.</p>
+
+<p>Horned cattle are not less scarce, and yet more diminutive, than
+at Sierra Leone, and their flesh is of the worst possible quality.
+Horses, for some reason, are no where to be found on the Gold
+Coast, nor are any beasts of burden whatever to be met with in the
+neighbourhood of the Castle; loads of every description being
+carried on men’s heads, and in hammocks<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_28">[28]</span> fastened to long poles, which are borne by
+two persons.</p>
+
+<p>The market is rather scantily supplied with Guinea-corn, maize,
+yams, sweet cassada, &amp;c. although the soil is amazingly rich,
+yielding abundantly all the necessaries of life. Notwithstanding
+its fertility, however, cultivation is carried on to a very
+inconsiderable extent, and the surrounding country is still thickly
+wooded.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">[29]</span><a id=
+"c02"></a>CHAPTER II.</h2>
+
+<hr class="decor width5">
+
+<p class="csum">The ship sails again — Capture of a Spanish
+schooner with Slaves — The natives of the coast come on board —
+Vessel anchors at Papoe — Sails from thence and captures another
+slave vessel — Arrives at Whydah, where Mr. Dickson lands — His
+progress through the country and reported death — The Brazen comes
+to an anchor in Badagry Roads — The Gentlemen of the Mission give a
+last farewell to the officers on board, and proceed on shore.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">The</span> Brazen sailed from Cape Coast on the
+17th, and on the following day pursued a fine Spanish brigantine,
+which was waiting to receive a cargo of slaves from the coast.
+After a short chase the vessel was captured, and taken to Accra the
+same evening. There were only five or six Europeans at Accra; but
+the town, as at Cape Coast, is chiefly inhabited by Fantees, and is
+very populous. We had an opportunity of seeing the king of the
+Fantee nation during our short stay. His majesty, dressed in a
+shabby<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">[30]</span> uniform of an
+English military officer, was supported on the shoulders of four
+men, and paraded through the town, preceded and followed by a
+number of people, who, by clapping of hands, and beating on
+<em>tom-toms!</em> created a loud and most discordant noise, which
+might have been heard at a considerable distance from the spot.</p>
+
+<p>On the 20th the Brazen departed with her prize from Accra, and
+came to an anchor at Papoe the day after. From that place the
+brigantine was to have taken in her cargo, and the slaves selected
+were confined in the town. As soon as the officers landed from the
+ship, they were demanded, but the king, obstinately refusing at
+first to deliver them up, was told that unless they were
+immediately produced, his town would be cannonaded, he himself and
+his son taken prisoners, and the slaves seized by main force; on
+which the royal personage seemed to pay a little more respect to
+the imperious summons of the Englishmen; and the unfortunate people
+were shortly after ordered to be liberated. These slaves at length
+made their<span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">[31]</span>
+appearance, and exhibited a long line of melancholy faces and
+emaciated frames, wasted by disease and close confinement, and by
+having suffered dreadfully from scantiness of food, and the impure
+air of their prison-house. They were 231 in number, men, women, and
+children, in a complete state of nudity, and heavily manacled;
+several of them were lamed by the weight of their irons, and their
+skin sadly excoriated from the same cause. All of them appeared in
+the deepest misery, and one little boy in particular was greatly
+distressed, and cried much and bitterly. He had been seized whilst
+at play with his young companions from before the threshhold of his
+parents’ hut, and immediately driven to Papoe with his thoughtless
+playmates. The poor things evinced the liveliest joy on being made
+acquainted with the favorable turn in their affairs, and the
+gratitude they displayed to their deliverers was natural and
+sincere. Arrangements were speedily made for their accommodation on
+board the prize; and that vessel, which was to have borne them to
+perpetual slavery in a remote region, was employed to
+convey<span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">[32]</span> them to
+hundreds of their countrymen at Sierra Leone.</p>
+
+<p>Papoe lies close to the sea, and consists of an assemblage of
+irregularly-built mud huts; a number of lofty cocoa-trees growing
+in its immediate vicinity conducing greatly to the apparent
+freshness and pleasantness of the place. Slavery is carried on to
+an alarming extent by the inhabitants, every one of whom is at all
+times prepared to accompany a slave expedition. They are said to be
+more ferocious in their manners than most tribes on the coast; and
+if one may be allowed to judge from the savage expression of their
+countenances, the people are eminently entitled to this character.
+The aspect of the country presents the same unvaried uniformity of
+thick forests and extensive savannas, intersected with rich plains,
+that is everywhere observable from the sea.</p>
+
+<p>The brigantine having been sent to Sierra Leone with the
+emancipated slaves, the Brazen sailed from Papoe on the morning of
+the 23d, and arrived at Whydah the same evening. Seven sail were at
+anchor off the coast fronting the<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_33">[33]</span> town, the greater part of which were supposed
+to be waiting for a favourable opportunity to embark slaves.
+Captain Clapperton and Dr. Morrison landed on the following
+morning, and were conveyed in hammocks to the town of Whydah,
+situated about two English miles from the beach. After making
+observations, and obtaining the information they sought, the
+gentlemen returned the same evening to the ship.</p>
+
+<p>On the 25th Dr. Dickson landed to proceed into the interior. The
+parting interview between Capt. Clapperton and the warm-hearted
+Doctor was singularly tender and pathetic. The latter gentleman
+entertained a presentiment that they should never meet again, and
+his endeavours to suppress or disguise his emotion entirely failed
+in their effect. “Study the character of the natives well,” said
+the Captain to Dr. Dickson, as he yet lingered on the deck;
+“respect their institutions, and be kind to them on all occasions;
+for ’tis on paying proper respect to these rules, and these only,
+that you must ground your hope of being successful in your progress
+through the country; and the<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_34">[34]</span> conduct of the people to you will be guided
+solely by your behaviour towards them. Set a guard over your
+temper, my dear Dickson, and never let it lead you into error.” “We
+meet at Jennah, then,” said the Doctor, with an inquiring eye, and
+anxious, half-doubting look: “We meet at Jennah,” answered Captain
+Clapperton, solemnly. “Once more adieu, my dear Dickson, and may
+God bless and protect you.” The Doctor then tore himself from the
+deck, and we saw him no more.</p>
+
+<p>Doctor Dickson was met at Whydah by M. de Souza, a Portuguese,
+and Mr. James, an Englishman, who accompanied him to Abomey, the
+capital of Dahomy, where he was received both by the king and his
+subjects with a hearty welcome, and every mark of kindness and
+respect. He was attacked with fever shortly after his arrival in
+that metropolis; but on his recovery proceeded in high spirits,
+with an escort of one hundred men, furnished as a protection by his
+Dahoman majesty, to Shar, that monarch’s authority extending no
+further in that direction.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">[35]</span>On my return from
+the interior I was told by a person at Jennah, that Dr. Dickson,
+having proceeded about two days’ journey into the country from
+Shar, (where he had arrived in safety,) for some reason, which was
+not correctly explained, had a serious misunderstanding with a
+party of the natives, and his life being threatened by its chief,
+he was so violently exasperated that he attempted to throttle that
+individual; which being observed by his followers, they fell upon
+the unfortunate doctor, overcame, and slew him.<a id=
+"FNanchor_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a>
+Thus this gentleman was the first of the mission that fell a victim
+to the cause of African research.</p>
+
+<p>On the 26th the ship departed from Whydah, and came to an anchor
+in Badagry Roads on the 28th.</p>
+
+<p>The appearance of the coast from Sierra Leone to Badagry is,
+generally speaking, singularly beautiful and attractive. The soil
+differs<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">[36]</span> in various
+districts, but consists chiefly of a rich reddish mould, intermixed
+with sand, which renders it wonderfully fertile. It yields in the
+greatest abundance most, if not all, of the necessaries of life,
+and many of its luxuries; and millet, Indian corn, yams, sweet
+potatoes, cassada, plantains, the banana, &amp;c. are cultivated to
+a considerable extent by the natives. Trees in great number and
+variety, of magnificent dimensions and luxuriant foliage, adorn the
+face of the country, the apparent beauty of which is infinitely
+heightened by the number of small villages, embellished with lovely
+trees, dotting the borders of the sea; amongst which the stately
+palm, both on account of the peculiarity and elegance of its form,
+must ever hold a distinguished place. Thick forests are also spread
+over the landscape, the gloomy shade of which, contrasted with the
+smiling verdure of cultivated plains, pleasantly studded with
+clumps of cocoa and other trees, and enlightened by a brilliant
+sun, offers a variegated and unrivalled picture of rural beauty,
+which the eye feasts upon with peculiar pleasure.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">[37]</span>It is melancholy
+to reflect, however, that a great portion of this delightful region
+is peopled with a race of savages and semi-barbarians, speaking a
+variety of languages, but all having nearly the same customs, and
+engaged in perpetual broils amongst each other. The manners and
+ceremonies of the people are indeed the same, essentially, as they
+were when the coast was first discovered by the Portuguese in the
+fifteenth century; neither time, nor their familiar intercourse
+with Europeans for so many ages, having apparently in the slightest
+degree either enlightened their minds, or out-rooted their
+unmeaning superstitions, which still retain all their original
+freshness and absurdity. It is much to be feared that, instead of
+copying and imbibing the virtues of their white visitants, they
+have only adopted their most odious vices. Intoxication, which in
+all probability was unknown, or at most but partially indulged in,
+by the aboriginal inhabitants, is followed to a beastly excess at
+the present time, and is the parent of a thousand
+irregularities.</p>
+
+<p>Slavery, by far the most appalling evil that<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_38">[38]</span> can befal the human race, is
+carried on in particular districts to a deplorable extent, and
+spreads like a pestilence through the country. It is impossible to
+contemplate this striking and peculiar feature in the African
+habits, without experiencing the most lively emotions of surprise
+and sorrow. It has insinuated itself so deeply into the very life
+and spirit of the laws and institutions of the people, that the
+period seems remote indeed when it may fairly be presumed it will
+be wholly eradicated from them. It has also produced the most
+baleful effects, causing anarchy, injustice, and oppression to
+reign in Africa, and exciting nation to rise up against nation, and
+man against man; it has damped all ardour for improvement, in the
+absence of every stimulus to industry and exertion, and infinitely
+sunk the character of the people in the eyes of the rest of the
+world; it has covered the face of the country with desolation, and
+filled the minds of its sorrowing inhabitants with mourning,
+lamentation, and woe: but above all, it has confirmed them in the
+darkest and most shameful ignorance, and rivetted<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_39">[39]</span> them more closely than ever in
+the bonds of a ridiculous and abominable superstition, to the utter
+exclusion of a more amiable and rational belief. All these evils,
+and many others, has slavery accomplished; in return for which the
+Europeans, for whose benefit, and by whose connivance and
+encouragement it has flourished so extensively, have given to the
+heartless natives but ardent and intoxicating spirits, tawdry silk
+dresses, and paltry necklaces of beads!</p>
+
+<p>The day after the arrival of the Brazen at Badagry (the 29th of
+November), the gentlemen of the mission, and the officers of the
+ship, assembled on the quarter-deck to take a final farewell of
+each other; and some of the latter were deeply affected, as with a
+faltering voice and agitated manner they breathed their hopes that
+success might attend the perilous undertaking to which their
+enterprising friends had so willingly devoted themselves. There was
+something so moving in the pathetic spectacle of Englishmen parting
+under a strong persuasion, almost amounting to a conviction, of
+meeting no more in <em>this</em> world; in seeing the manly
+resolution<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">[40]</span> and
+stubborn indifference of British officers combating with the
+tenderer and more amiable feelings of human nature, that I myself
+could with difficulty stifle my emotion; and to dispel the gloom
+which hung upon my mind, I bade the officers a hasty and respectful
+adieu, and shaking hands with many of the honest seamen on deck, I
+sprang into a canoe that lay alongside the Brazen; and as two of
+the natives were rowing it towards the shore, I took the
+opportunity of playing “<em>Over the hills and far away</em>,” on a
+small bugle horn which I had brought with me. This elicited the
+admiration of the sailors of the ship, and I landed amidst the
+hearty cheers and acclamations of them all.</p>
+
+<p>Shortly afterwards Captains Clapperton and Pearce, and Dr.
+Morrison, with Pasko and Dawson,<a id="FNanchor_2"></a><a href=
+"#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> also landed; but Columbus
+the mulatto, who had been ill almost from the period of his leaving
+England, was too weak to accompany them.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">[41]</span>The landing was
+rendered extremely dangerous by reason of a tremendous surf, which
+rolled violently, and to a great height, for many miles along the
+coast, and the canoe in which Mr. Houtson (an English merchant, who
+was taken on board at Whydah, for the purpose of accompanying the
+mission,) was conveyed from the Brazen, with astronomical
+instruments, &amp;c. was swamped when at some distance from the
+beach. This accident had nearly cost that gentleman his life; for
+after being tossed about on the foam and waves for a few minutes,
+his strength utterly forsook him, and he ceased to struggle with
+the waters. In this perilous state he was observed by two of the
+blacks who had been with him in the ill-fated canoe; and, at the
+imminent risk of their own lives, the men succeeded in conveying
+Mr. Houtson, although totally insensible, to the shore, where
+proper remedies having been administered, he shortly afterwards
+recovered. The natives subsequently dived after the instruments,
+&amp;c. and were fortunate enough to regain the whole,
+although<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">[42]</span> being
+seriously damaged by the water, many of them were of little, if
+any, use afterwards.</p>
+
+<p>Neither an English boat, nor a canoe of the ordinary form, can
+possibly live, even a single minute, in this dreadful surf; and the
+natives have canoes of singular construction, and exceedingly
+strong, made purposely to brave its violence; yet, as the preceding
+casualty clearly shows, even these are insufficient to preserve the
+passenger from the danger apprehended. The canoes here spoken are
+of immense size and thickness, and manned by nineteen naked men,
+who are well skilled in the art of rowing. On every occasion a
+Fetish-man, covered from head to foot with <em>gris-gris</em>,
+stands in the bow invoking the “Spirit of the Waters” to be
+propitious, and quell the raging of the sea. He continues
+alternately watching the motion of the billows and praying in a low
+mournful tone till the boat reaches the shore or the vessel, when
+thanks are immediately returned to the water-divinity. When he
+fancies his petition has been heard, the Fetish-man, catching a
+favourable opportunity,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_43">[43]</span> suddenly claps his hands in a transport, and
+exclaims, with violent gesticulation and wildness of manner, “i
+yaw, i yaw!” (now is the time, now is the time,) which inspires his
+countrymen in the canoe with fresh energy, and dashing their
+paddles into the water, they propel their enormous bark through the
+foamy waves with the swiftness of lightning.</p>
+
+<p>I must own, I was by no means sorry that Columbus did not
+proceed with us; he was a man of strong and easily excited
+passions, and was besides malicious and revengeful. He used to take
+offence at the most trifling accident in the world, and with oaths
+and bitter imprecations, curse the individual whom he conceived had
+been the author of it, vowing at the same time to be revenged. He
+frequently declared, during the voyage, that he himself would be
+the solitary survivor of the party: all the others, he affirmed,
+would die before they had been in the country many weeks, and he
+should have the <em>pleasure</em> of returning alone; nevertheless
+he was himself the very first victim to the effects of that climate
+which he had proudly boasted<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_44">[44]</span> could not be prejudicial to him,—for being
+subsequently landed at Whydah, and overtaking Dr. Dickson at
+Abomey, he proceeded with that gentleman on the road to Shar, but
+being attacked with fever, expired, I have been informed, before
+they had reached that place.</p>
+
+<p>A day or two previously to our leaving the ship, I had by some
+means or other unintentionally offended Columbus; the next time he
+saw me, he exclaimed, grinning horribly, in a tone and gesture
+which could not be mistaken, and which I shall not easily forget,
+“I shall one day have the pleasure of seeing you parching with
+thirst on the back of a camel; and rather than give you one drop of
+water by —— you shall perish there; <em>that</em> will be my
+revenge!”</p>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">[45]</span><a id=
+"c03"></a>CHAPTER III.</h2>
+
+<hr class="decor width5">
+
+<p class="csum">The Travellers reach Badagry, and leave that city
+on the 7th of December — Dr. Morrison’s illness — Arrival at Latoo
+— Captain Pearce and the Author attacked with fever — Enter Jannah
+— Continued and alarming illness of the party — Their progress —
+Dr. Morrison returns to Jannah.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">At</span> the distance of about half a mile
+from the beach we came to a small creek, near the mouth of which
+was a solitary fetish-hut, ornamented in front with a species of
+small shining stone, which abounds in the country. Near this sacred
+spot were deposited several bundles of wood, and various articles
+of earthenware of rude manufacture; but not a single individual
+could any where be seen. In such reverence are these pagan temples
+held by the natives, that property, how valuable soever it may be,
+placed within a certain distance of them, is considered as being
+under the special protection of their<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_46">[46]</span> gods; in consequence of which, though it may
+remain unclaimed for any length of time, it is rarely known to be
+damaged or stolen.</p>
+
+<p>After crossing the river Formosa, which is about a mile in
+width, we arrived at Badagry at five o’clock in the afternoon, and
+were comfortably accommodated in the dwelling of Mr. Houtson who
+had previously resided at that place. The house, like every other
+in the town, except the king’s, is constructed of bamboo cane, and
+has but one story. On Friday, the 2d of December, the King, Adólee,
+sent us a present of a bullock, a fine pig, and some fowls; and on
+the following day honoured us with a visit, in all the pomp and
+barbarous magnificence of African royalty. He was mounted on a
+diminutive black horse, and followed by about one hundred and fifty
+of his subjects, who danced and capered before and behind him;
+whilst a number of musicians, performing on native instruments of
+the rudest description, promoted considerably the animation and
+vivacity of their motions and gestures. He was gorgeously arrayed
+in a scarlet cloak, literally covered with<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_47">[47]</span> gold lace, and white kerseymere trowsers
+similarly embroidered. His hat was turned up in front with rich
+bands of gold lace, and decorated with a splendid plume of white
+ostrich feathers, which, waving gracefully over his head, added not
+a little to the imposing dignity of his appearance! Close to the
+horse’s head marched two boys, each carrying a musket in his right
+hand; they wore plain scarlet coats, with white collars and large
+cocked hats, tastefully trimmed with gold lace, which costly
+material all classes excessively admire. Two fighting chiefs
+accompanied their sovereign on foot, and familiarly chatted with
+him as he advanced. On approaching within a short distance of us,
+the monarch dismounted, and squatting himself on the ground outside
+our house, an umbrella was unfurled and held over his head, whilst
+a dozen of his wives stood round their lord and master</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0">“With diverse-colour’d fans, whose wind
+did seem</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">&nbsp;To glow the <em>delicate</em>
+cheeks which they did cool!”</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="nind">for the atmosphere was sultry and the heat
+oppressive. After paying our respects to our august visitor,—to do
+him honour, I was desired to hoist<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_48">[48]</span> an English union-jack over him. This was the
+climax of his glory and his pride; he was sensibly delighted, and
+looked as childishly vain as a girl when she first puts on a new
+dress. All hands now began to drink rum, and the spectacle became
+highly and singularly grotesque. Laying aside all pretensions to
+superiority of rank, his Badagrian majesty forgot his illustrious
+birth, and was as cheerful and merry as the meanest and most jovial
+of his subjects. Seated on the ground, his splendid dress
+glittering in the rays of the sun, surrounded by his generals,
+pages, and wives, with a British flag held by a white floating over
+his princely head,—his soul softened by the most inspiring and
+delicious music! and his animal spirits exhilarated by large and
+repeated draughts of his favourite cordial,—he was in a transport
+of joy, and looked and spoke as if he had been the happiest man in
+the universe; while the shouts and bustle of the people, the
+cracking of fingers and clapping of hands, the singing, and
+dancing, and capering, all was so novel, and so African, that it
+made an impression on my memory which will never be erased
+from<span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">[49]</span> it. This debauch
+continued for a couple of hours; when all the rum being consumed,
+and Adólee becoming rather tipsy, his majesty begged me to favour
+him, before his departure, with a tune on my bugle horn, of which
+he had formed the most extravagant notions. To this modest request
+I cheerfully acceded, and played several English and Scotch airs,
+until I became so completely exhausted that my breath was entirely
+spent, the king not permitting me to drop the instrument till then.
+Owing either to the effects of the liquor Adólee had partaken of so
+freely, or to the sound of the music, &amp;c. he was quite in an
+extasy, and shook hands and thanked me at the close of every tune.
+The king then remounted, and the procession returned in the same
+order, and performed the same anticks as when it came. Captain
+Clapperton and his associates accompanied the monarch to his
+palace; whilst I and my companions repaired to our peaceful
+habitation.</p>
+
+<p>Adólee, recovered from the fatigue and revelry of the preceding
+day, visited us again on<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_50">[50]</span> the third, and minutely examined every
+article belonging to the mission, without, however, expressing the
+slightest inclination to reserve any thing for himself. When the
+use of the telescope was explained to him, he could not conceal his
+astonishment, and fancied its maker to be more than mortal; the
+medicine-chest also, and its contents, excited his curiosity and
+attention, and he quitted us with an exalted opinion of the
+knowledge and ingenuity of the English people.</p>
+
+<p>His majesty, without pomp or ceremony, visited us daily till the
+period of our departure from his capital; he had the reputation of
+being a friendly, good sort of man, and was apparently about forty
+or forty-five years of age, five feet nine inches in height, and
+rather inclining to corpulency.</p>
+
+<p>The market, which is held daily, is tolerably supplied with
+poultry, yams, maize, palm wine, country cloth, &amp;c. &amp;c. The
+cattle are no better, either in size or condition, than those at
+Sierra Leone, and on other parts of the coast.</p>
+
+<p>On Wednesday, the 7th, after a drinking<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_51">[51]</span> revel with the Badagrian great men, we
+embarked in canoes on a branch of the Lagos river, accompanied by
+Adólee and many of his chiefs, in separate canoes, and people in
+armed boats for our mutual protection, in case of surprise or
+attack. Landing about a mile and a half from the junction of the
+Gazie creek, Adólee and some of his people returned to Badagry, and
+we slept in the evening on the western bank, in the open air,
+without even the shelter of a single tree. The moon shone brightly
+and beautifully in the night, and not a sound disturbed the solemn
+tranquillity of the place, all being as still and quiet as the
+grave. Next morning we found ourselves wet to the skin with the
+heavy dew that had fallen in our sleep; and in all probability were
+thus sown the seeds of those disorders which subsequently broke out
+with such fatal virulence, and produced suffering, disease, and
+death, in our little party. In the forenoon I accompanied my master
+and Mr. Houtson to Bookhar, a neighbouring town, and the stores and
+baggage were ordered to be sent after us. On arriving<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_52">[52]</span> at that place we seated
+ourselves under the branches of a large tree, and were quickly
+visited by hundreds of the inhabitants, who came in large companies
+to view us, and as soon as their curiosity was satisfied, made way
+for their impatient countrymen. The children, who were not tall
+enough to catch a glimpse of us through the crowd, were perched on
+the shoulders of their parents or relatives, who pointed us out to
+them, observing, “There they are!” as if we had been wild beasts,
+or monsters of some sort. All, however, behaved with the strictest
+propriety, and although they repeatedly laughed to each other on
+making observations on the singularity of our appearance or the
+whiteness of our skin, not a single word of derision or disrespect
+was uttered against the strangers.</p>
+
+<p>Whilst we were stared at in this manner, the crowd suddenly
+divided in order to make way for a fighting chief belonging to the
+army of the king of Katunga, who came in full state to visit us,
+riding on a small horse, and followed by a large retinue, two of
+whom were also<span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">[53]</span>
+mounted. On his head he wore a cap and feathers, evidently of
+European manufacture, and he was clad in a scarlet jacket,
+fluttering in rags, with dirty yellow facings, and loose trousers
+of faded nankeen—a dress of which he was extravagantly vain. The
+king’s messengers having had a consultation with the chief, the
+latter dismounted, and sat himself down at the distance of about a
+stone’s-throw from our tree. Captain Clapperton then sent him an
+umbrella as a token that we were amicably disposed towards him, and
+wished him well; on receipt of which his attendants set up so
+terrific a noise, with drums, clapping of hands, &amp;c. that it
+was utterly impossible to hear ourselves speak while it lasted. As
+soon as this clamour had subsided the chief arose, and coming up to
+us, shook hands with each, very complacently seating himself by our
+sides. He expressed himself overjoyed at seeing white men, and
+complimented the English, in no measured language, for the good
+they had done in trading with the people of the country. A glass or
+two of rum, which he swallowed with<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_54">[54]</span> peculiar delight, set the warrior-chief in
+better humour than ever, and he repeated his encomiums in so loud a
+key that they were heard by his attendants, who, out of respect,
+had retreated several yards from the spot, when the music of the
+drum was revived with greater spirit than before, interrupted only
+by immense clapping of hands, and other demonstrations of joy. This
+“harmony of sweet sounds” continued till the mighty chief left us,
+which took place the moment he perceived that no more spirits were
+forthcoming.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as we had fairly got rid of our garrulous visitor, we
+rose to pay a visit to the caboceer, or chief of the town, whom we
+found in earnest conversation with his elders, and a few of his old
+grey-headed wives, altogether forming the most venerable looking
+group of human beings I ever saw. The profoundest silence prevailed
+as we drew near, and every eye was anxiously fixed upon us. The
+chief was a tall thin man, well stricken in years, and respectably
+dressed in a silk tobe and trousers of country cloth. On his head
+he wore a cap<span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">[55]</span> so
+thickly studded with various coloured glass beads that the material
+of which it was composed could with difficulty be distinguished;
+and small gold colored tassels of beads hung from it to the
+shoulders. The cap was neatly and fancifully made, and set off the
+black ill-natured face of its owner to great advantage. After
+paying the usual compliments, goora nuts and water were presented,
+and my master explaining to the chief who and what we were, and
+what motives had induced us to visit the country, with which he
+expressed himself perfectly well satisfied, we were conducted to
+his residence; receiving shortly afterwards a present of a sheep,
+some yams, and fire-wood. Many of the chief’s young wives stole
+every opportunity to peep through holes in the walls at the white
+men, but when detected gratifying their curiosity in this manner,
+they were excessively confused, and ran off and hid themselves.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening Captain Pearce arrived with the baggage from the
+banks of the river; and in the night it was guarded by the soldiers
+of the king of Badagry, who serenaded us till the<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_56">[56]</span> next morning with a most
+astounding concert of drums, &amp;c. in order, as they asserted, to
+deter thieves from plundering the goods.</p>
+
+<p>Near the entrance of the town, on the left side of the road,
+stands a solitary fetish-hut, of large dimensions, with a number of
+wooden figures, carved in bas-relief, some in a kneeling and some
+in a recumbent posture, placed outside the walls; these idols the
+inhabitants worship, and ascribe miraculous powers to their
+agency.</p>
+
+<p>We arose at an early hour on Thursday: but the old hypocritical
+chief, alleging that he had not received a present proportionate to
+his respectability or expectations, would neither exert himself in
+any way to procure a single individual to convey the baggage, nor
+appeared willing for us to leave till he had finished a long-winded
+harangue, which had already occupied three hours, and threatened to
+last at least as many more, when his tongue was fortunately stopped
+by the two Badagrian Generals clapping their hands on his lips.
+Owing to this circumstance a few individuals only
+volunteered<span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">[57]</span> to assist
+us, amongst whom was one of the chief’s daughters, a bouncing woman
+of five-and-twenty, who carried the canteen,—so that our Badagrian
+escort were obliged to undertake that office themselves. We were
+equally unfortunate in our inquiries for hammock-men, not a single
+individual in the town being willing to engage himself in what all
+ranks conceive to be an occupation fit only for horses; but Captain
+Clapperton having borrowed the horse of a Badagrian chief, he and
+Mr. Houtson agreed to ride him in turns. We took a short route
+across the country, whilst Captain Pearce and Dr. Morrison
+proceeded to Dagnoo by a safer but more circuitous road.</p>
+
+<p>It was evening when we left Bookhar, and it soon becoming dark,
+we had to grope our way on a narrow foot path, winding through a
+gloomy dismal forest, and rendered almost impervious to man or
+beast, except on the beaten track, by reason of thick entangling
+underwood. To add to our misery, Captain Clapperton became so
+painfully galled in consequence of riding on the back of a lean
+horse without a saddle,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_58">[58]</span> that he preferred walking the remainder of
+the way, although wearing only slippers; these were soon lost, and
+he was obliged to limp a considerable distance barefooted, so that
+his feet were swollen, and blistered dreadfully, and before
+reaching Isako were literally bathed in blood.</p>
+
+<p>We were informed in the village that the party with the baggage
+had left that place some time before for Dagnoo, whither we were
+obliged to follow it, preceded by a number of the kind inhabitants
+with burning torches to show us the intricate path, which did not,
+however, prevent our stumbling at every step. We arrived at Dagnoo
+about midnight, our clothes being torn to ribbons, and all of us
+excessively fatigued from the effects of so long and unpleasant a
+walk; and on finding that the beds had been sent still further on,
+we were again under the necessity of sleeping in the open air,
+exposed to a heavy dew, which completely saturated the remnant of
+our dress before morning.</p>
+
+<p>We arose early, and after crossing a small creek in the vicinity
+of Dagnoo, continued our journey, through a vast primeval forest,
+sometimes<span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">[59]</span> broken by a
+grove of palm-trees, a field of Indian corn, and even a whole
+village in large open places. We were met in the path by numbers of
+the natives of both sexes, with bundles of palm-leaves on their
+heads, used for the purpose of thatching their huts; and the wild
+shrill cry of the grey parrot resounded from the huge branches of
+the trees.</p>
+
+<p>On arriving at Humba, we found Captain Pearce and Dr. Morrison
+at the chief’s residence, waiting to receive us; and shortly
+afterward Captain Clapperton was taken very unwell with fever,
+having had a slight attack of ague in the course of the day. The
+town was in ruins, and its inhabitants appeared in a truly pitiable
+state; nevertheless singing and dancing, and music-playing, were
+kept up during the whole of the night, with as much spirit and good
+humour as if the people had been the happiest in the world.</p>
+
+<p>On the morning of the 11th the baggage was sent on, and we
+walked to another village at no great distance from Humba, although
+my master was so extremely weak that he was barely able<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_60">[60]</span> to undertake even so short a
+journey on foot. When we entered the place, we found the carriers
+detained by command of the chief, until a flask of rum, by way of
+tribute, was given him. He came up as soon as he saw us, with a
+leopard’s skin thrown carelessly over his shoulders, and repeated
+his determination not to let the men proceed till his request was
+complied with. The old man was however satisfied with a strong
+glass of grog, prepared for him by Mr. Houtson, each mouthful of
+which, instead of swallowing, he adroitly squirted into the mouths
+of his longing attendants, who stood gaping, with glistering eyes,
+to receive the liquor thus deliciously refined, and which was
+relished by the whole party with peculiar satisfaction! The
+carriers were then allowed to go on with the baggage without
+further molestation, and Captain Clapperton got into a hammock; but
+the bearers had proceeded only a few paces, when it was for some
+unaccountable reason suddenly let down, and the fellows scampered
+away as fast as their legs could carry them. It was afterwards
+taken up by our own party, and conveyed<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_61">[61]</span> through Ackongujie, a pleasant village
+surrounded by fertile land, to a town called Eto, in which the
+bearers were changed, and we proceeded through thick woods till we
+arrived at Sattoo, where we slept, after having made an excellent
+supper on a goat the chief had sent us. Next morning we pursued our
+journey early, and at noon reached the pleasant town of Bidgie,
+near to which were extensive plantations of corn and plantains. The
+chief, a fine young man named Lollakelli, who was perpetually
+smiling, pressed us to stay with him the remainder of the day; and
+the inhabitants, who came in crowds to see us, passing the same
+compliment, after a little hesitation it was accepted, and we slept
+there.</p>
+
+<p>Dr. Morrison felt himself indisposed in the evening, with slight
+symptoms of fever, and swelling of the legs; but next morning being
+partially recovered, we proceeded in good spirits to the borders of
+a river we had to cross, Lollakelli, with several of his people
+accompanying us. Mr. Houtson and myself embarked in the first
+canoe, but we were an hour and half on<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_62">[62]</span> the water before we could reach the
+landing-place, situated on the eastern bank: nor did the other
+canoes meet with better success. All being at length safely over,
+we pursued our journey, and our road lying nearly the whole of the
+way through a dried swamp overgrown with rushes, travelling was
+thereby rendered extremely uncomfortable. About mid-day my master
+became exhausted, in consequence of fatigue and the excessive heat;
+and resting himself in the shade of some diminutive trees for a few
+minutes, a person on horseback passed by, who seeing him reposing
+on the earth, dismounted, and offered him the use of his horse.
+This being gratefully accepted, the party was immediately in
+motion, and the generous black walked with us to Atalabora. On
+entering that village we found the baggage detained for want of
+carriers, who had been sent for from an adjoining town, and had not
+then arrived; so that Captain Pearce, who felt seriously
+indisposed, and Dr. Morrison, the other invalid, thought it
+necessary to refresh themselves with an hour or two’s sleep, in the
+principal hut in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">[63]</span> the
+town; whilst Mr. Houtson, my master, and myself, took the
+opportunity of stretching ourselves at full length underneath the
+branches of a spreading tree, the heat being oppressive, and
+unrelieved by a single zephyr. The expected carriers having
+arrived, and the sick expressing themselves somewhat strengthened
+with the short nap they had enjoyed, they were first sent forwards,
+and the other gentlemen, with myself, followed them. The road was
+quite level, and lay through a small town called Funnie, across
+rich plantations of yams. Towards evening we were met by a person
+from the chief of Laboo, with horses for our accommodation. We
+immediately mounted the beasts, and journeying at an easy rate,
+entered Laboo by moonlight.</p>
+
+<p>The town is delightfully situated on a rising ground, commanding
+an extensive and noble prospect; the approach to it is through a
+beautiful walk of trees, between which at certain measured
+distances, fetish-houses are erected, which are held in the
+greatest veneration by the inhabitants. Immediately on our arrival
+we<span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">[64]</span> were conducted to
+the chief, whom we found sitting under the verandah of his
+dwelling, and who politely welcomed us to Laboo, observing that he
+had been anxiously expecting us for some hours before. Goora nuts,
+as usual, were presented, with water in a certain chamber utensil
+which shall be nameless, the odd service to which it was applied
+causing us to laugh heartily; and the chief became as sociable
+after we had been in his company a few minutes only, as if he had
+been acquainted with us for years. Dr. Morrison was brought into
+the town about two hours after, in a weak and helpless state; and
+on Wednesday the 14th, I was myself taken extremely unwell with
+<em>coup-de-soleil</em>, or sun-stroke, having incautiously left my
+head uncovered for some time on the preceding day. Captain Pearce
+also felt much worse towards the evening of the 14th, so that the
+day after that gentleman, and Dr. Morrison and myself, were obliged
+to be conveyed in hammocks on men’s heads, to Jannah, where we
+arrived an hour before the rest of the party.</p>
+
+<p>The inhabitants quickly surrounded the tree<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_65">[65]</span> under which we had been placed, and teazed
+us with a thousand questions which we were unable to answer.
+Meantime a dense crowd had collected in front of us, and welcomed
+the <em>red</em> men as we were termed, (our skin being at that
+time much blistered by the rays of the sun,) by drumming, and
+singing and dancing. In our languid state, we were ill able to bear
+this eternal din, and entreated the people to conduct us to a hut,
+for that we were very ill; but they answered with the greatest
+unconcern, that the king, whose house was directly opposite, must
+of necessity see us before we ventured to stir from the spot; that
+he was the greatest man between Badagry and Katunga; and that it
+would not be well for us to offend him by being too importunate in
+our solicitations. We at length lost all patience, and observing a
+large empty shed in the centre of the square, which we found to be
+the palaver-house or hall of council, we ventured to crawl into it
+as well as we could, being only a few yards from the tree. Captain
+Pearce and Dr. Morrison had then their beds made; but mine being
+rolled up, I was too weak to spread it,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_66">[66]</span> and so I lay along the bare ground. As soon
+as Captain Clapperton and Mr. Houtson had made their appearance,
+the noise was hushed for a moment, and shortly afterwards the chief
+himself, accompanied by about fifty of his wives, approached, and,
+whilst they stationed themselves at a short distance from us, the
+latter struck up a native tune, which they sang loudly, and with
+much feeling; indeed there was a solemnity and pathos about it that
+reminded me of the most impressive church-music of my own country.
+As soon as the sound of the ladies’ voices had ceased, the band
+played a lively air, in which the singers occasionally joined; and
+at the conclusion of the concert a message was sent from the king
+to the palaver-house, for the <em>red men</em> that were well to
+make their appearance. Accordingly Captain Clapperton and Mr.
+Houtson went to the chief, who, at the opening of the conference, I
+could perceive, as I lay on the earth, to be violently agitated
+speaking with great apparent anger, and pointing several times to a
+silver knife that was stuck in his girdle. After kniting his brows,
+and frowning for a minute or<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_67">[67]</span> two, his features suddenly relaxed into a
+gentler expression, and graciously smiling, he shook hands
+cordially with the gentlemen, and entering the palaver-house,
+extended his royal hand to us for the like purpose. He was attired
+in a loose yellow silk tobe, and trousers of country cloth; and his
+cap of red velvet had a purple silk tassel appended to the crown.
+Like most of his countrymen, the chief or king of Jannah was fond
+of displaying his conversational powers, and when answering any
+questions that were put to him, or making observations on what
+struck him as being singular or remarkable in our appearance, he
+rattled a child’s silver whistle and bells (of English
+manufacture), which he held in his left hand, by way of
+accompaniment to his voice, which was certainly not the most
+harmonious in the world.</p>
+
+<p>We were subsequently conducted to a house which was partly
+occupied, and too small for our accommodation; so that my master,
+Mr. Houtson, and Dawson were obliged to remain under the verandah,
+neither of the others being well enough to follow their example. In
+the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">[68]</span> evening the king
+came alone, and plainly dressed, to visit us, and in this instance
+was very inquisitive and communicative. He wished particularly to
+understand our business with the sultan of Yariba, for, as we
+afterwards learnt, a messenger from the coast had informed him that
+the white men’s object was expressly and solely to make war upon
+that monarch and dethrone him; but the sorry plight in which we
+then were disproved the assertion; and the chief himself
+acknowledged that he did not place the slightest confidence in the
+unfounded rumour.</p>
+
+<p>On Friday I became considerably worse, and on the following day
+my life was despaired of. In the evening I was bled in the temple;
+but the doctor, who was himself suffering from fever, being unable
+to hold the instrument steadily, inadvertently thrust it into my
+skull. This accident occasioned the most excruciating agony, and
+made me shriek with pain. I passed the night in a manner that
+cannot be described, but next morning felt much easier and better.
+On Monday, however, the fever returned with more violence than
+ever, attended by a severe<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_69">[69]</span> head-ache that almost drove me distracted,
+and at my own suggestion Dr. Morrison ordered my head to be shaved.
+To perform this delicate operation a native barber was at length
+found, who came wielding a tremendous knife curved like a
+reap-hook, instead of a razor, and began his avocation in a most
+brutal manner, just like a clumsy English butcher shaving a
+slaughtered pig; insomuch, that when his labour was finished, my
+skull was scalped almost as effectually as if it had been done by
+the tomahawk of a North American Indian. Although my head was thus
+miserably excoriated, a large blister, covering the whole of it,
+was applied; and my suffering was heightened to the utmost degree
+of intensity; so that I lost my reason, and in the evening was
+completely delirious. In this state, as I subsequently learnt, I
+sprang from my couch, and being animated with the fury of a maniac,
+knocked down the doctor and my master, broke and destroyed every
+thing within my reach, and when in the act of escaping in my
+night-dress from the door, was forcibly dragged back to my bed by
+the united strength of the whole party,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_70">[70]</span> who had been alarmed with the noise I had
+made. Weakened and exhausted by this mad prank, the phrenzy left
+me, and reason returned, but with it came the loss of speech. About
+an hour afterwards a consultation was held by my bed-side; and the
+doctor having carefully felt my pulse, I was comforted by the
+expressed opinion, that it would be impossible for me to live
+throughout the night. Much to the astonishment of all, however, on
+Tuesday the disorder had abated so greatly, that I was enabled to
+sit up and converse rationally with those around me: my health, in
+fact, seemed to return almost as rapidly as I had lost it.</p>
+
+<p>Dr. Morrison and Captain Pearce, in the meantime, continued
+alarmingly ill, and evidently getting worse. Their hollow eyes,
+sunk deeply in their sockets, and their skin exhibiting a sallow
+and cadaverous hue, they looked more like walking spectres than
+living human beings; insomuch, that Captain Clapperton, distressed
+at their altered appearance, urged upon each of them the necessity
+of their either remaining at Jannah, or returning, under the care
+of Mr.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">[71]</span> Houtson, to
+the Brazen. Both gentlemen, however, declared their invincible
+repugnance to the measure, and on the contrary expressed themselves
+resolutely bent to proceed at all risks: Captain Pearce, in
+particular, felt greatly hurt at the suggestion of his friend, and
+asserted, in a decided tone, that he would infinitely prefer being
+buried in the country, remote as it was from his native land, than
+suffer Captain Clapperton to pursue his journey alone, while he had
+life to accompany him. The Captain, affectionately pressing the
+hand of the disinterested invalid, thanked him for the lively
+interest he felt in his welfare, but repeated his unwillingness for
+either him or Dr. Morrison to proceed further, in their present
+emaciated and languid state: to this, however, no attention was
+paid.</p>
+
+<p>Things being thus amicably adjusted, to the complete
+satisfaction at least of the invalids, we left Jannah early on the
+morning of Thursday the 22d, (the sick, myself amongst the number,
+travelling in hammocks, as on former occasions,) and slept at
+Beechy that night. At ten the next morning we arrived at Tschow, in
+which<span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">[72]</span> town we
+received much hospitality from the natives; and in the afternoon
+Dr. Morrison, fancying that the sea air would restore his health,
+which was hourly declining, at his own suggestion was sent back to
+the ship, under the protection of Mr. Houtson.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">[73]</span><a id=
+"c04"></a>CHAPTER IV.</h2>
+
+<hr class="decor width5">
+
+<p class="csum">Deaths of Dawson, Captain Pearce, and Dr. Morrison
+— Their funeral — The survivors, after meeting with various
+occurrences, and experiencing the kindest hospitality from the
+natives on their route, arrive at Katunga, the capital of Yariba,
+on the 15th of January, 1826.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">On</span> Saturday, the roads being rendered
+almost impassable, in consequence of the rains that had fallen the
+preceding night, it was not without experiencing considerable
+difficulty that we could pursue our journey. The mud and water
+reached, in some places, almost to the horses’ shoulders; and
+Dawson, who was ill with ague, was unable to retain his seat on the
+animal’s back, and fell three or four times in the mire, till he
+became so much exhausted by struggling to regain his seat, that, in
+despair, he at last flung his arms only across the
+horse’s<span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">[74]</span> back; and
+panting with his exertions, was in this manner dragged to a
+considerable distance. At eleven o’clock we arrived at the village
+of Egbo; and after partaking of a slight refreshment, each of us
+being indisposed in a greater or less degree, we stretched
+ourselves at full length on our mats, in the hope of obtaining a
+little sleep. Dawson, however, was taken dreadfully ill, and his
+moanings of distress prevented me from closing my eyes. He
+pronounced the names of his wife and children, whom he had left in
+England, with a bitter emphasis, and reproached himself repeatedly
+with having deserted them, to perish miserably in a strange
+country. In this manner he complained till the afternoon, refusing
+all consolation, when he became a little more composed; and Captain
+Pearce fell asleep. My master had quitted the apartment just
+before; and the medicine-chest lying open by Dawson’s side, he
+perceived it, and pointing to a phial, desired a black attendant to
+fill him a glass of its contents; which being promptly done, he
+eagerly swallowed it. Whilst this was going on I had fallen into
+a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">[75]</span> slumber; and on
+awaking, about a quarter of an hour afterwards, not hearing
+Dawson’s groans, I asked how he did; but receiving no answer, I
+went to his bed-side, and found him a cold and stiffened corpse!
+The sight of so unexpected and ghastly a spectacle caused me to
+shudder, and I involuntarily made an exclamation of surprise and
+terror, that awoke Captain Pearce, who asked what was the matter.
+Before I had time to reply, he had raised himself on his couch, and
+the truth instantly bursting upon him—“What!” said he, “is Dawson
+dead? Well, poor fellow, <em>his</em> sufferings are over;
+<em>I</em> cannot long survive him;” and with a deep sigh he sunk
+back exhausted on his mat, without making any further remark.</p>
+
+<p>On examining the bottle from which the unfortunate man had
+desired the liquor to be taken, I found it to be partly filled with
+<em>ether</em>, which he must have mistaken for something else, and
+which had caused his almost immediate dissolution. As soon as the
+natives were made acquainted with the circumstance, they set up
+their death-yell; and if all the fiends of darkness<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_76">[76]</span> had joined in chorus, they could
+not have produced an effect more frightfully and fearfully
+appalling than was the sound produced in that instance. Captain
+Clapperton hastened to silence them, which, after some difficulty,
+he succeeded in doing; but the awfully terrific noise the people
+made, seemed to be ringing in our ears the whole of the night. As
+dead bodies cannot be left exposed a great while in tropical
+countries, Dawson was buried on the evening of his death, followed
+to the grave by the whole of our black attendants and myself.
+Captain Clapperton read the funeral service over his remains, which
+were then deposited in the earth, and we returned to Captain
+Pearce, whom we had left alone in the hut. Our party was now
+reduced to three whites, one of whom was dangerously ill; my master
+himself was in a much worse state of health than he would either
+acknowledge or believe; and I was but just recovering from a
+disease that had nearly proved fatal to me. A gloom was therefore
+cast upon the countenances of our little band, as we prepared to
+proceed, on the morning of Sunday;<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_77">[77]</span> but Captain Pearce rallying a little, we set
+off in more cheerful spirits.</p>
+
+<p>The appearance of the country, from Jannah to Tshow, is greatly
+superior to that from the coast to the former place, being clearer
+of wood, and in a higher state of cultivation, swelling likewise
+into easy and delightful undulations. Streams of water fertilize
+the vallies; and the hills, covered with a lively verdure, are
+adorned with lofty and handsome trees. The towns of the natives,
+from Badagry to Tshow, with a few exceptions only, like those in
+the island of Madagascar, are situated in the bosom of thick woods,
+and are entered by paths so intricate, that, like the labyrinth of
+Woodstock, they are known to none but the inhabitants themselves.
+Sometimes, however, they have only one path, which is generally
+defended by strong stockades or a mud wall, and sometimes by both
+together.</p>
+
+<p>On Tuesday morning we continued our journey, with a cool
+strengthening breeze and a serene atmosphere, which seemed to
+invigorate each of us with renewed life and spirit; and,
+after<span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">[78]</span> two hours’
+travelling, we arrived at Engwâ. In the course of the journey, for
+the first time since leaving the ship, we perceived great numbers
+of trees, stripped of their foliage, and the grass beaten to the
+ground, so that, with the exception of the absence of frost and
+snow, the country looked like many parts of England in the month of
+November or December. Several of the natives in this, as in almost
+every other instance, either accompanied or followed us on the way,
+and we experienced as much civility from them as our countrymen
+would have bestowed upon us in our native land. They were,
+generally speaking, neatly dressed in cap, shirt (tobe), and
+trousers, and very cleanly in their personal appearance.</p>
+
+<p>About eleven o’clock Captain Pearce became suddenly worse, and
+an hour or two afterwards was delirious. He talked much and
+incoherently, in detached sentences; at one time apparently
+conversing with his mother in the most affectionate terms, asking
+her questions, and answering them himself, and the next moment
+reverting to his own melancholy condition, and<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_79">[79]</span> muttering something which no one could
+understand. In this pitiable state he remained till nine o’clock in
+the evening, when he fell into a stupor, from which he awoke about
+half an hour afterwards, and attempting to raise himself on his
+couch, with a faint groan, and a convulsive throe, he fell back and
+instantly expired.</p>
+
+<p>Both Captain Clapperton and myself were deeply affected as we
+enveloped the lifeless body in its shroud; and a host of gloomy
+reflections crowded upon our minds, to see the once spirited and
+cheerful companion of our wanderings stretched out before us, the
+shadow only of a man, clothed in the mournful habiliments of death.
+Next morning, about eleven o’clock, the body was borne to the place
+of its interment, followed by my master and myself, with the
+messengers of the kings of Badagry and Katunga, and a great number
+of natives, who all behaved with the strictest decorum. As in the
+former instance, Captain Clapperton, although extremely unwell, in
+a tremulous voice and agitated manner, read the funeral service,
+interrupted only by his own emotion, which he found<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_80">[80]</span> it impossible to conceal. The
+corpse having been consigned to the grave, it was soon closed over
+him for ever, and my master and myself, with heavy hearts and
+melancholy anticipations, returned to our cheerless habitation. The
+following inscription, at the desire of Captain Clapperton, I
+carved on a board, which was placed at the head of the pit, over
+which a shed was built by the natives; and a strong bamboo fence
+surrounded the whole:—</p>
+
+<p>“Here lie the remains of Robert Pearce, Captain in the Royal
+Navy of England, who died 27th Dec. 1825, aged 28, much regretted
+by those that survive of the mission.</p>
+
+<ul class="sign1">
+<li>“H. <span class="sc">Clapperton</span>.</li>
+
+<li>“R. <span class="sc">Lander</span>.”</li>
+</ul>
+
+<p>Captain Pearce had rendered himself a general favourite by his
+gentle and pleasing manners, and excellent natural disposition. My
+master was particularly attached to him, and esteemed him highly,
+while the natives almost adored him. His companionable qualities
+were great, and he displayed them to advantage in our toilsome
+journeyings, raising the spirits of<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_81">[81]</span> the party by his wit and cheerfulness, and
+infusing his own good temper into the breasts of every one. He was
+besides an excellent limner and draughtsman, and possessed an
+aptitude for picking up the various languages of the natives, which
+bade fair to render him of the most essential service to the
+mission. No one deplored his loss, or felt the want of his pleasant
+society, more than myself. Just after he was taken ill, at his own
+request, as soon as the day’s toil was over, I was constantly with
+him, and at night my mat was placed close to his. We used to chat
+for whole hours together, on different circumstances of our lives;
+and my little history afforded him a fund of amusement. Any thing,
+indeed, that promised to divert our thoughts from the calamities
+which threatened us, was resorted to, and every trifling incident
+we had each met with from our childhood repeated a thousand times
+over, in order to dole away the long, still, dismal hours of night,
+when sickness prevented either of us from closing our eyes.
+Throughout Captain Pearce’s illness, his patience, resignation, and
+manly fortitude never<span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">[82]</span>
+forsook him; he was conscious that he should ultimately sink under
+the influence of a disorder that was visibly wasting him, and daily
+reducing his strength: nevertheless, this belief neither shook his
+firmness nor damped his spirits, and he always spoke of his
+anticipated dissolution with a serious calmness of manner that
+surprised and pleased me. None of us thought that his end was so
+near; we expected he would have struggled on at least a week or two
+longer; but the sorrowful event disappointed the hopes we had
+cherished, and he expired prematurely, to the infinite regret of
+every one.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Houtson returned on Saturday the 31st, with the afflictive
+intelligence of the decease of Dr. Morrison, which mournful
+circumstance occurred at Jannah, by a coincidence, singular in
+misfortune, on the same day, and as nearly as possible at the same
+hour as that in which Captain Pearce had breathed his last. He was
+decently interred by Mr. Houtson on the 28th, near to the house in
+which they had resided; and the ceremonies of the Church of England
+were performed over his remains by the same gentleman.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">[83]</span>We saw several
+busts of men, as well as figures of tigers, crocodiles, serpents,
+&amp;c. carved on blocks of wood, and extremely well executed, at
+Engwâ. The natives of that part of Africa appear to have a genius
+for the art of sculpture, which is in great repute with them; and
+some of their productions rival, in point of delicacy, any of a
+similar kind that I have seen in Europe.</p>
+
+<p>A fine Portuguese brig, and a Spanish schooner, had been lying
+near Badagry, on our leaving that place, waiting for slaves; to
+supply which vessels, the King of Jannah had sent a slaving party
+to the territories of the Essàs, a powerful tribe in the
+neighbourhood of Engwâ, which had captured numbers of the people.
+The Chief of the Essàs was greatly exasperated at this conduct of
+his neighbour, and had made numerous reprisals; so that, at the
+period of our passing through the country, a general war was the
+consequence.</p>
+
+<p>Owing to this circumstance, on leaving the town of Engwâ on the
+morning of the 3d of January, 1826, we were accompanied by upwards
+of a hundred men and women, who placed<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_84">[84]</span> themselves under our protection, fancying
+that, when within sight of the white strangers, no evil could
+befall them. We crossed a river called Akkeni at ten o’clock
+<span class="sc2">A.M.</span>, which was full of sunken rocks, and
+arrived at the village of Afoora about three hours after. Our
+journey on that day was rendered particularly pleasant by the
+fragrant odour exhaled from the cotton plant, then in full
+blossom—the wild, solitary whistle of the grey parrot, and the
+delightful melody of hundreds of small birds, swelling from the
+branches of the tall trees. The country every where improved as we
+advanced:—fields of Indian corn, and plantations of cotton, were
+numerous, while groves of palm, and clumps of cocoa and female
+cocoa trees, scattered on all sides, rendered the prospect from the
+hills inexpressibly beautiful. Quitting Afoora early on Wednesday,
+we reached Assula the same morning, in which town we were more
+conveniently lodged than we had been since leaving the coast.</p>
+
+<p>Starting about seven o’clock the next day, and travelling over
+several low hills, and through pleasant vallies, we entered
+Assoudo,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">[85]</span> (the first
+walled town we had yet seen,) at noon. In the paths we observed
+numbers of fine birds, with silky and brilliant plumage, but I
+could not be informed to what particular species they belonged,
+neither of us having seen any of a similar kind before. Assoudo
+contains upwards of ten thousand inhabitants, who were all as
+curious as their countrymen, and also as noisy, but infinitely more
+modest and respectful, and consequently more pleasing in their
+manners. We received an abundant supply of provisions from the
+chief, consisting of a goat, fowls, eggs, yams, bananas,
+&amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>On Friday, after halting at Tedi, a small village romantically
+situated on a beautifully wooded slope, where we changed carriers,
+we arrived at the town of Choko; but its chief, with nearly the
+whole of the male inhabitants, being engaged in hunting the
+buffalo, did not return till evening. In the mean time we had spent
+an hour or two under a tree, but finding no one disposed to invite
+us to a house, of our own accord we took peaceable possession of
+the best hut the place afforded, of the goodness<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_86">[86]</span> of which, however, we could not
+boast, it being sadly out of repair.</p>
+
+<p>Our road from Choko, on Saturday, lay round the sides of low
+mountains, on the summits and in the hollows of which were several
+hamlets, inhabited by an industrious race, who had extensive
+plantations in the valleys below, where the palm tree flourishes in
+great beauty. We slept at Yundekka that night, and on the next day
+arrived at Duffo. There the inhabitants visited us by thousands,
+and when desired to go away, they replied that if we did not allow
+them to visit our house, we must come out, and show ourselves to
+them in the street, for that they were determined, let the
+consequence be what it might, to see a white man before they died.
+The town contains ten or twelve thousand inhabitants, nearly half
+of whom, on our departure the next morning, followed us at some
+distance, in order to catch a last glimpse of their white
+visitants.</p>
+
+<p>We passed through three villages, on the route to Chiadoo, to
+which we were advancing, viz. Jesin, Weza, and Lukewâ, the chief of
+each of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">[87]</span> which, with
+the people, detained us an hour or more underneath the branches of
+trees, gazing on us with a mingled sensation of compassion and
+wonder, till, their curiosity being fully satisfied, we were
+suffered to proceed. At the latter of these villages elephants’
+teeth were offered us for sale; but on our refusing to purchase
+them, on the ground that we were not come for the purpose of
+trading, the greatest amazement was depicted on the countenances of
+the people, and they wondered amongst each other what motive
+besides could possibly attract us to their country.</p>
+
+<p>We entered Chiadoo about six o’clock in the evening, and
+received the accustomed present of provisions, &amp;c. with the
+addition of a turkey. The town, seated on a gentle declivity, is
+densely inhabited, and defended by a thick mud wall and deep
+trench, which wholly surround it. Within the wall, and almost close
+to it, trees of large dimensions are planted, so as to form a belt
+from two to three miles in circumference, which in case of
+necessity might easily be converted into an excellent means of
+defence for the inhabitants.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">[88]</span>The scenery on the
+road from Afoora to Chiadoo is extremely picturesque, but the path
+itself is in many places rugged and dangerous to travellers.
+Winding by the sides of the <em>Kong</em> mountains, over rocks and
+precipices, or through romantic glens at their base, intersected
+with innumerable streams, the track was generally covered with
+small loose stones, which galled the feet of the hammock-men in a
+pitiable manner. On all sides immense masses of granite, jutting
+abruptly from the hills or vallies, reared their heads to the
+height, in some places, of several hundred feet; whilst others,
+fearfully overhanging the narrow foot-way, caused a shuddering awe
+to creep over us as we passed underneath them, which could not be
+suppressed. With some danger, and more difficulty, the men who bore
+my hammock clambered with me to the summit of one of the mounts,
+from whence the prospect on the one hand was immeasurably grand and
+imposing, and on the other enchantingly beautiful. At our feet were
+lovely dales, cultivated in the highest degree, and planted with
+cotton, yams, the plantain, &amp;c. fertilized<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_89">[89]</span> by meandering rivulets, sparkling in the
+sun-beams; whilst before and behind us were naked rocks,
+precipitously steep and rugged, many standing singly, and others
+piled loosely upon each other, apparently ready to tumble to the
+earth below. The vallies, as well as the slopes and summits of the
+hills, being studded with the cleanly habitations of the natives,
+all bore an air of novelty, cheerfulness, beauty, and grandeur,
+that I have never seen surpassed.</p>
+
+<p>Our carriers having made themselves merry at the village of
+Weza, with an intoxicating beverage called <em>otée</em> (a kind of
+ale made from millet), were rather frolicsome during the remainder
+of the journey; and on descending an almost perpendicular
+precipice, I was in momentary expectation of being tossed head-long
+from their shoulders, my continued weakness rendering me unfit to
+walk; but happily my fears were not realized, and after numberless
+hair-breadth escapes, I was conveyed in safety to Chiadoo. The
+chief of that town, whose kindness to us was displayed in a
+striking manner, entreated us to remain with him a few days, and
+Mr. Houtson<span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">[90]</span> being
+indisposed, and Captain Clapperton still more so, the latter
+thought it advisable to stay a couple of days at least in the
+place, in order to try whether ease and quiet would produce a
+beneficial effect on the health of either of them. On the morning
+of Thursday, the 12th, we left Chiadoo, followed by the chief and
+an immense crowd of people of both sexes, amongst whom were
+hundreds of children, the ladies enlivening us with songs at
+intervals, and the men blowing on horns and beating on gongs and
+drums, without any regard to time, forming altogether a most
+barbarous concert of vocal and instrumental music, which continued
+to our great inconvenience and annoyance till we arrived at Matoné,
+when they took leave of us and returned. The carriers refreshed
+themselves with two huge calabashes of <em>otée</em> whilst we
+remained in the town, after which they started with redoubled
+vigour, and about one o’clock halted at Arrowâ, where we slept.</p>
+
+<p>After some little difficulty, occasioned by the unwillingness of
+the chief and inhabitants to part with us so soon, we pursued our
+journey at<span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">[91]</span> half-past
+nine next morning, and resting awhile at Washoo, entered Chaki in
+the afternoon. The appearance of the country traversed differed but
+little from that which has already been described as seen on the
+road to Chiadoo, with the exception of its being, if possible, yet
+more varied, and wearing an aspect of still deeper and sterner
+beauty; hill rising above hill, and rock above rock, in proud
+magnificence. In some places huge blocks of naked granite seemed
+split as if by the hands of giants, leaving frightful chasms, the
+bottoms of which could not be distinctly seen; and in others
+detached fragments, irregularly scattered over the country, looking
+wildly and negligently grand, inspired the strongest belief that
+they had been forcibly rent asunder, at a remote era, by some
+dreadful convulsion of nature.</p>
+
+<p>The air on the mountains is cooler, clearer, and more salubrious
+than in the plains below, and the inhabitants seemed to enjoy
+better health, and as we were informed lived to a more advanced age
+than their countrymen of the vallies. We were every where received
+on<span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">[92]</span> the road with
+acclamations and songs of welcome; and as soon as our little party
+was discerned, all labour immediately ceased. The people assembling
+in groups of from three or four to fifty, approached as near as the
+rocks would permit them; and doffing their caps, they greeted us as
+we passed, wishing us a pleasant journey to their sovereign at
+Katunga.</p>
+
+<p>On the top of the highest hill of the whole ridge is perched the
+populous town of Cheki, at an immense elevation from the plains,
+the approach to which is by a winding path, more steep and rugged
+than any we had before met with, and up which we were obliged
+positively to climb on our hands and knees. The chief, who may be
+styled a petty king, having a considerable number of towns, and
+many thousands of people under his protection and command,—was
+seated outside of his house, under its verandah, surrounded by
+about a hundred of his wives, and musicians with drums and fifes.
+On our approach the latter struck up a native air, the ladies
+keeping time with their feet, and accompanying the instruments with
+their voices,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">[93]</span> which
+were so loud and shrill that the sound rent the air. To this
+<em>voluptuous</em> music we were obliged to listen for the space
+of an hour, when it ceased, and we took the opportunity of paying
+our respects to the chief, and being completely tired, were
+conducted to a large hut which had been prepared for our reception.
+No sooner had we been fairly housed, however, than we were visited,
+first by several of the inhabitants, whose curiosity was irksome
+and painful to us, and next by the chief in person, who drank tea,
+and remained with us till a very late hour, asking us innumerable
+questions about England, and listening with the most mortifying
+attention, and intolerable patience, to all we chose to tell him.
+His countenance was open and pleasing, and in many of his
+observations he displayed a degree of acuteness and penetration
+that startled us. We were treated by this chief with a kindness,
+remarkable even amongst his countrymen, and, under his hospitable
+roof, we almost forgot all our misfortunes.</p>
+
+<p>Arising early on Saturday, the 14th, though pressed to remain by
+every inducement that<span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">[94]</span>
+could be thought of, we departed from Chaki at eight o’clock,
+attended by the mountain-chief, with upwards of two hundred of his
+wives, and a long train of people. Passing for the first time
+through several Falatah villages, whose inhabitants were chiefly
+employed in the occupations of pasturage and agriculture, Mr.
+Houtson and myself entered the walled town of Koofo at one, and
+about an hour after Captain Clapperton was brought into the town on
+a hammock, being still severely indisposed. Several extensive
+cotton plantations lay near the road, and the soil, generally
+speaking, was clear of wood, and tolerably well cultivated. The
+town of Koofo has a double wall, and is the largest we had noticed,
+containing, in all probability, fully twenty thousand inhabitants.
+We were saluted with the usual demonstrations of African welcome on
+entering the gates; and in the afternoon of our arrival, and the
+next day, the spacious court or yard with which we were
+accommodated was literally crammed with people of both sexes, and
+of all ages; and their impertinent curiosity it was utterly
+impossible<span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">[95]</span> to
+satisfy. As soon as one party had stayed as long as they thought
+proper, another supplied its place, in such rapid succession, that,
+till the evening of each day had been pretty far advanced, we had
+not a moment to call our own.</p>
+
+<p>The further we penetrated into the country, the more dense we
+found the population to be, and civilization became at every step
+more strikingly apparent. Large towns at the distance of only a few
+miles from each other, we were informed lay on all sides of us, the
+inhabitants of which pay the greatest respect to the laws, and live
+under a regular form of government.</p>
+
+<p>Captain Clapperton, finding himself stronger and better,
+ventured to leave Koofo on horseback, on Monday at eight o’clock
+<span class="sc2">A.M.</span>, and after two hours’ travelling
+through a well cultivated and delightful country, studded with
+pleasant Falatah hamlets, we arrived at Soccasoo. In this town, our
+messenger having gormandized on a leg of pork, was taken so sick
+that he either could not or would not<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_96">[96]</span> proceed, and as we durst not go on without
+him, we were obliged to abide in the place till the following
+day.</p>
+
+<p>The opinion that the white men were come as “messengers of
+peace” was general in the country, and implicitly believed by all
+ranks. Two years previously to our landing from the Brazen, the
+Houssa slaves belonging to the Sultan of Yariba had rebelled
+against their sovereign, and, fleeing into the woods, had built
+themselves a considerable town, no more than two days’ journey from
+the capital (Katunga), which they called Lori. In it they strongly
+entrenched themselves, and, by the addition of numbers of their
+straggling countrymen, who willingly flocked to their standard, had
+become so formidable in a short time, that they had successfully
+resisted all the attempts of his Yaribean Majesty to re-enslave
+them, and maintained their independence against the force of an
+empire. About the time of our journeying into the interior, it was
+reported that the insurgents had recently been reinforced by a
+large body of Falatah horsemen, which proved in fact to
+be<span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">[97]</span> the case, and the
+news had struck so great a panic into the minds of the people of
+Yariba, that those residing in the vicinity of the mutinous slaves
+had emigrated to more remote provinces. Hence the anxious
+solicitation of every one, that as “messengers of peace,” we should
+compromise matters between their monarch and his refractory
+vassals, which course could alone inspire the people with the hope
+of preserving their lives and property. The Houssas had already
+begun to act on the offensive, and had made frequent incursions,
+even to the dwellings of their former masters, sacking and setting
+fire to their towns, and laying their country waste.</p>
+
+<p>On Tuesday the 17th we left Soccasoo, and changing horses at the
+town of Ladooli, halted at Hadjidibbah, where, both my master and
+Mr. Houtson becoming sick and ill, we rested for three hours. We
+then again set forward, the path lying through a forest of stunted
+trees; and reaching Akkibosa in the afternoon, slept there that
+night. In the course of the morning we had passed several villages,
+two or three of which were in ruins, having been partly burnt by
+the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">[98]</span> Houssas, and
+deserted by their original inhabitants.</p>
+
+<p>The atmosphere was close and sultry on our setting out on the
+morning of Wednesday, and continued so during the journey. About
+two hours’ travelling brought us to the walled town of Adja, the
+entrance to which is through a spacious avenue of noble trees. Here
+we were obliged to stop for the remainder of the day, because the
+inhabitants were at work in the plantations. At an early hour on
+Thursday, the chief, who had been informed the previous evening of
+the complaint under which Captain Clapperton laboured, came with a
+dose of medicine for him to take; but after swallowing it my master
+became so dreadfully ill, that Mr. Houtson, as well as myself,
+suspected that poison had been administered to him. In this
+conjecture, however, we were happily deceived; for in about two
+hours the pain, which had been occasioned by the potion together
+with his former ailment, suddenly left him in an extraordinary
+manner, after which, he expressed himself in perfect health, and
+ready to proceed. We arrived at Layboo<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_99">[99]</span> at one o’clock the same day, having seen on
+the road five towns, two or three of which were walled, and of no
+inconsiderable extent.</p>
+
+<p>At six next morning we were again in motion, and halting at the
+village of Bougboug at seven, and at Leogalla, a Falatah town, at
+eight o’clock, arrived at Ateepa at twelve at noon. The country
+traversed was agreeably diversified by hills of gentle and gradual
+ascent, and fertile vallies, cultivated with yams, corn, bananas,
+&amp;c. Ateepa, like most towns of any magnitude in the country, is
+furnished with a strong wall, made of earth, and a belt of trees
+within it, which, by reason of a thorny creeping shrub clinging
+round the trunks, like the ivy to the oak, and throwing out
+vigorous shoots, had become so thickly entangled as to form a
+secure barrier, which, except by the narrow gateway at the
+entrance, was impervious to man and beast.</p>
+
+<p>On Saturday we departed from Ateepa, attended by the chief and a
+long train of the male inhabitants, to defend us from any attack
+that the Borghoo robbers might feel disposed to make on so
+insignificant a party as ourselves.<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_100">[100]</span> At Nannah, a considerable walled town, we
+changed carriers; and its chief, copying the example of him of
+Ateepa, joined our procession also, with a strong party, having the
+same benevolent object in view, and escorted us to Leobadda, where
+each of the chiefs drank a glass of grog, and returned with their
+attendants to their respective towns. Leobadda stands close to some
+huge masses of pale granite rocks, broken into irregular fragments,
+and has a wall of prodigious thickness. Its population is from six
+to seven thousand souls, who all seemed to be contentedly poor,
+invariably happy. The same generous hospitality which had so
+eminently characterised their countrymen, was displayed by the
+inhabitants of Leobadda, even in the midst of poverty and rags,
+with an alacrity and cheerfulness that redound greatly to their
+credit, and speak volumes in their praise.</p>
+
+<p>At seven o’clock on Sunday, the chief, with many of his people,
+assembled in front of our house, and accompanied us for some miles.
+On the road we met several hundreds of men, women, and children,
+with heavy loads on their beads,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_101">[101]</span> who had been travelling the whole of the
+preceding night, and who appeared so greatly fatigued, as scarcely
+to be able to drag their lazy limbs after them. They were carefully
+watched by overseers (one of whom was appointed to each fifty), who
+were all armed, either with short swords, or bows and arrows, and
+made the weary travellers quicken their pace by threats of
+punishment whenever they observed them loitering on the way. We
+passed in the course of the journey, several villages which had
+been burnt and destroyed by Falatahs; the walls were overgrown with
+weeds, and the trees, which a short time before had afforded a
+grateful and refreshing shade to the inhabitants, seared by the
+conflagration, and standing blighted and withering, as solitary
+memorials of the awful manner in which those once flourishing towns
+had been converted into waste and desolate places. At noon we
+descended into a delightful valley, situated in the bosom of a
+ridge of rocks, which effectually hid it from observation till one
+approached almost close to it. It was intersected with whimpering
+streams and purling rills, the elegant palm, and the
+broad<span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">[102]</span> leaved
+banana, covered with foliage, embellishing the sheltered and
+beautifully romantic spot. In the centre was a sheet of water,
+resembling an artificial pond, in which were numbers of young
+maidens from the neighbouring town of Tschow, some of them reposing
+at full length on its verdant banks, and some frisking and basking
+in the sun-beams, whilst others of their companions were sporting
+with the Naiads of the sacred stream; but all of them visibly
+delighted with the pleasant recreations which they were enjoying so
+prettily and innocently. We stood for a season gazing on them with
+pleasure; but no sooner were our white faces observed by the young
+ladies, than their amusements instantly ceased, and the sable
+beauties simultaneously rushing from the water, snatched up their
+apparel, and with their uncovered associates, concealing their
+faces with their hands, ran away and hid themselves behind the
+trunks of trees, looking as coy and bashful as did their mother Eve
+in the garden of Eden.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving that lovely glen with regret, we arrived at Tschow, a
+walled town, with a good<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_103">[103]</span> population, at two o’clock. As soon as we
+could be accommodated with a house, we began cleaning our guns and
+pistols, as the roads to Katunga were, we had been repeatedly
+informed, infested with numerous bands of desperadoes, whose
+success and boldness had terrified, to an alarming degree, the
+peaceable and timid inhabitants.</p>
+
+<p>On the evening of our arrival, the expected escort from the
+Sultan of Yariba entered the town. It consisted of two hundred
+horsemen, and double that number on foot, commanded by a war-chief,
+and armed with spears, and bows and arrows; all most grotesquely
+attired, some flouncing in handsome robes, and some fluttering in
+rags. From the moment of their arrival to the period of our
+departure, we had not a moment’s quiet. They paraded the town all
+night, vociferously bellowing the happiness they felt, or pretended
+to feel, on meeting with the white men—serenaded us with a concert
+of drums, flutes, and trumpets, with powerful vocal accompaniments,
+and kept shouting and hallooing till we arose in the morning.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_104">[104]</span>All was hurry
+and confusion as we prepared to depart, and our escort soon getting
+themselves in readiness, we bade adieu to the chief of Tschow, and
+started from the town about six o’clock, accompanied by a great
+number of merchants and others, who cheerfully embraced the
+opportunity of putting themselves under our protection. Nothing
+could be more animated than the appearance of our boisterous
+conductors, winding their way up a narrow and crooked path; the
+horsemen with their long spears, clearing the road, and hurrying
+onwards as fast as their jaded and diminutive beasts could walk
+with them; and the bowmen on foot, with their instruments slung
+across their shoulders, and quiver full of arrows, appended to
+their sides, plodding after them with all imaginable haste. But by
+far the most amusing, if not the most important part of that
+strange and singular cavalcade, were the musicians themselves, who
+found it no easy matter to keep pace with their more lively
+countrymen, and perform on their instruments at the same time. The
+drummers, flourishing their sticks with a scornful,
+consequential<span class="pagenum" id="Page_105">[105]</span> air;
+the trumpeters with their black bloated cheeks shining with fat;
+and the fifers turning up the whites of their eyes towards heaven,
+and producing altogether the most discordant, most terrific sounds
+that can be conceived, were highly ludicrous; nor could we, in
+spite of ourselves, maintain a becoming gravity, or help being
+infinitely diverted every time that we ventured to look back, and
+steal a glance at our never-enough-to-be-admired lovers of
+harmony!</p>
+
+<p>We halted near a village called Achoran at nine o’clock, but the
+baggage being at some distance behind, we left it to the care of
+the chiefs, and proceeded with a hundred of the escort, (the road
+in many places rugged and overshadowed with the branches of trees,)
+and crossed a stream flowing to the Quorra about an hour after.</p>
+
+<p>At eleven at noon, on attaining the summit of a lofty ridge, we
+came in sight of the city of Katunga, lying to the south of us, at
+the base of a granite mountain, and apparently embosomed in
+beautiful trees. Between the ridge and the city was a fertile
+valley, highly cultivated, and extending to the westward as far as
+the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_106">[106]</span> eye could
+reach; while the view to the eastward was bounded by a gigantic
+rock, shivered into fragments, and at no great distance from the
+place on which we stood. An hour’s easy riding brought us to the
+north gate of the metropolis of Yariba, outside of which were a
+fetish-hut, and a few private habitations; and on entering it we
+took up our abode for the time, at the residence of one of the
+chiefs of the escort.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as the remainder of the convoy with the baggage had
+arrived, the intelligence was immediately transmitted to Mansolah,
+the King, from whom we presently received a warm invitation. After
+a ride of full five miles through the streets of Katunga, in which
+we were attended by the escort and musicians, who created so thick
+a cloud of dust that it had well nigh suffocated us, we at length
+reached the king’s palace. His majesty was seated under the
+verandah, with two umbrellas spread over him, and surrounded by
+above four hundred of his wives, with many of his caboceers and
+other great men. Dismounting at the distance of twenty yards, we
+walked up almost close to the<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_107">[107]</span> umbrellas, when Mansolah arose, and very
+cordially shook hands with each of us, welcoming us to his kingdom
+with a broad grin, lifting up our hands three several times, and
+each time exclaiming “Ako! ako!” which means literally “How do you
+do?” The multitude, the chiefs, and the king’s ladies, seemed
+equally pleased with their good-humoured sovereign at our visit,
+and displayed the warmth of their feelings by acclamations, shaking
+of hands, and smiles and encouraging glances. Before our dismissal
+his majesty enquired more particularly after our respective
+healths, but made few other observations. In the evening he visited
+us at our house, attended by his eunuchs and women, and, simply
+asking how we did, left us with the hope of seeing us again the
+next day.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_108">[108]</span><a id=
+"c05"></a>CHAPTER V.</h2>
+
+<hr class="decor width5">
+
+<p class="csum">Residence at Katanga — Ebo the eunuch — Pantomimic
+representation by the Yaribeans — Departure from the city of
+Katunga — Arrival at Khiama — Wow Wow — Manners of the people —
+Boussa — Mungo Park.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">We</span> remained at Katunga exactly seven
+weeks; the king, on various frivolous pretexts, refusing to grant
+us permission to depart before. During all this time each of us
+enjoyed but indifferent health, Captain Clapperton in particular
+being oftentimes so severely indisposed as to be unable either to
+walk or ride; nevertheless we were treated with the utmost civility
+and kindness by the people generally. The king himself visited us
+almost every day, and never came without an acceptable present of
+provisions; while his caboceers behaved with a still nobler
+generosity, insomuch that if it had not been for the
+malpractices<span class="pagenum" id="Page_109">[109]</span> of a
+sly, lubberly, fat, monstrous eunuch, named Ebo, to whose care was
+entrusted our provisions, and whose ravenous appetite was
+proverbial in the city, we should have been literally crammed with
+every delicacy both of the country and season. That old gormand had
+a paunch of a most awful size, which he contrived to keep in
+excellent condition by partaking largely of the good things
+intended for our use, which he purloined in a daring and impudent
+manner, and devoured when alone and at leisure. Not content with
+secreting the choicest articles, he made so serious an impression
+even on the bare necessaries of life, that we were not unfrequently
+kept on short allowance.</p>
+
+<p>On one occasion we detected him in the very act of concealing
+some ducks, eggs, and honey, which we knew beforehand had been sent
+him for our consumption; and we taxed him with the robbery to his
+face. Ebo, however, disclaimed the imputation with earnestness, and
+maintained his innocence with considerable volubility. On our
+entrance he held a bottle of rum in one hand, to which he had been
+evidently paying<span class="pagenum" id="Page_110">[110]</span>
+his devotions, whilst the other was occupied in shuffling something
+under a mat. It was no doubt the eunuch’s intention to take another
+draught of the inspiring liquid, whilst thus employed, but,
+mistaking the hand in which it was held, he snatched the other from
+underneath the mat, and had actually the head of our duck in his
+mouth, instead of the bottle, before the error was discovered. This
+it was which he had taken so much pains to hide from our sight, and
+the ludicrous misconception of the fellow caused us infinite
+diversion. As for the eunuch, he was not the least disconcerted;
+and although we discovered the honey and eggs also concealed in
+another part of his house, he roundly asserted that he had
+purchased them at the market the day before. Complaints were made
+to the king of his conduct, without producing a beneficial effect
+upon the gormandizing Ebo, who continued to feed without mercy on
+our provisions, while his paunch maintained its usual enviable
+state of rotundity and bulk, at the expense of our empty
+stomachs.</p>
+
+<p>Captain Clapperton diverted the people of<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_111">[111]</span> Katunga by a display of rockets at
+different times; this was the only means we had of making ourselves
+in the least degree the instruments of pleasure to them in return
+for their good nature; and this they appeared to enjoy with all the
+zest that a novelty generally inspires in the breasts of savages,
+even after it had ceased to be a novelty. At first the spectators
+were terrified with the exhibition, but familiarity with it soon
+wore off that impression, and they never appeared satisfied with
+gazing at our artificial fire-works. The inhabitants, on their
+part, with their sovereign at their head, endeavoured to prolong
+our stay with them by straining every nerve to please, and beguiled
+the time by all the amusements they could think of. Amongst other
+allurements held out by Mansolah towards this end, that of seeing
+him <em>as a king</em>, which would shortly be the case, was
+repeatedly urged with much warmth. “You behold me now, only as a
+poor man,” observed his majesty, “but by and by I shall be a king
+indeed.”</p>
+
+<p>A womanish fondness for dress and admiration, and a childish
+vanity in the most trivial as<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_112">[112]</span> well as more important concerns, were
+strikingly visible in the character of every prince we met with in
+Africa; nor did the monarch of Yariba think these frivolities
+beneath him, any more than his royal neighbours; but in his case
+there was mixed up with this weakness, a certain consciousness of
+the absurdity of it, which I never observed in the character of any
+other African whatever. Mansolah only conformed to the whims and
+fancies of his people, he said, when he attired himself so
+fancifully; for that they preferred a ruler with a smart and
+gorgeous exterior, even if he happened to be the most odious tyrant
+on the face of the earth, to a prince meanly dressed, although he
+were endowed with every amiable quality. It was not, therefore, in
+compliance with his own inclination that he had accepted, with so
+great apparent satisfaction, the trinkets we had given him for the
+adornment of his person, but solely to please his subjects, to
+whose taste he always accommodated himself. Against these
+philosophical expressions of the Sultan of Yariba, however, his
+conduct and actions sadly militated, for he smiled with delight on
+beholding<span class="pagenum" id="Page_113">[113]</span> a brass
+watch-chain he had received of us; his eyes sparkled with rapture
+at the sight of a gold-headed cane Captain Clapperton had offered
+for his acceptance; while a necklace of large handsome coral beads
+positively threw him into a transport of joy.</p>
+
+<p>The same eager curiosity that had been displayed on the road
+from Badagry, was evinced by the people of Katunga; but there was
+no boldness, no impudence, no daring effrontery, with the latter;
+they every where made way for us to pass, when either curiosity or
+the desire of exercise induced us to walk through their town, or
+its environs, and retreating to a short distance, made a profound
+obeisance, and in some cases even went so far as to prostrate
+themselves in the dust before us, although these were acts of
+humiliation we never countenanced nor approved of. The more
+respectable part of the inhabitants, on meeting with us in the
+streets, used to run up to shake hands, with as much cordiality as
+if they had known us from our childhood; and would very kindly
+enquire after our healths, not merely for the sake of having
+something<span class="pagenum" id="Page_114">[114]</span> to say,
+as is the case in England, but prompted by an interest and concern
+they could not disguise. We felt assured that their motive for
+asking sprang from a sincere desire of <em>knowing</em>, in order
+that they might sympathise with us if we were ill, or congratulate
+us if we enjoyed tolerable health.</p>
+
+<p>The strong desire Mansolah felt and expressed for us to remain
+at least for a few months with him, made that prince guilty, on
+more than one occasion, of dissimulation, and even falsehood,—which
+detracts greatly from his merit, for in other respects he was a
+generous, sensible, good natured man. He was fruitful in expedients
+against our setting out, and used every means that ingenuity could
+suggest, to counteract our intentions of prosecuting our journey;
+at one time alleging that the Falatahs, (who had joined a party in
+a civil war that was then raging in Nyffé, between two princes, who
+were disputing the right of succession to their deceased father’s
+throne,) intercepted all communication between that country,
+through which it was our intention to pass, and Yariba, or rather
+Katunga, its capital;<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_115">[115]</span> and at another time asserting that he had
+sent messengers to Yarro, one of his own provinces, to ascertain
+whether the road was clear in that direction; for he was
+determined, he said, not to be instrumental towards our falling
+into the hands of the Falatahs. His assertion, with regard to the
+war in Nyffé, proved indeed to be correct; but for some indefinable
+reason, besides those adduced, he was excessively jealous of our
+having the least intercourse with the Falatahs, his most inveterate
+enemies, who, as he repeatedly and feelingly expressed himself,
+“had torn down his father’s house.”</p>
+
+<p>Amongst the amusements of the inhabitants of Katunga, dancing
+and tumbling hold a prominent rank. With respect to the latter
+diversion, they cannot be excelled by any people in the world;
+their evolutions in the air are perfectly astonishing, and by the
+suppleness and pliability of their limbs, by their bending, and
+turning, and twisting themselves into all manner of shapes, one
+would be almost inclined to believe that they have not a single
+bone in their bodies.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_116">[116]</span>During our stay
+at Katunga we were witnesses to a kind of pantomime, which
+amusement the inhabitants generally prefer, in honor of the
+caboceers, whenever they pay a visit to the king, as was the case
+in that instance. The place chosen for the exhibition was a large
+enclosure, contiguous to the king’s residence, covered with
+verdure, and as level as a bowling-green. It was rendered
+particularly pleasant by the refreshing shade afforded by clumps of
+tall trees, which studded the spot in all directions. Two huge
+shapeless rocks of crumbling granite marked the limits of the
+play-ground to the south; the king’s house those to the north; and
+a range of trees intercepted the view to the east and west. A lofty
+fan-palm-tree grew in the centre of the place, under the branches
+of which the actors were accommodated; and a temporary fence,
+erected round its trunk, screened them from observation, whenever
+they chose to remain concealed.</p>
+
+<p>A most astounding din from drums, horns, and whistles, was the
+signal for the performers to begin their manœuvres. The first act
+consisted<span class="pagenum" id="Page_117">[117]</span> of
+dancing, capering, and tumbling by about twenty men, enveloped in
+sacks, which novel and elegant divertisement was continued with
+admirable spirit for a full half hour, when the contents of the
+sacks becoming fatigued, bundled themselves back to the
+palm-tree.</p>
+
+<p>The second act commenced almost immediately after, with
+attempting to catch the <em>boa constrictor</em>. To effect this
+object, one of the dancing sacks came out of the place of its
+concealment, and fell gently and most conveniently to the ground,
+when a monstrous mishapen figure, with a head-dress resembling in
+size and shape a common English wash-tray, from which streamed a
+variety of strips of scarlet damask and country cloth, slowly
+approached the recumbent sack from behind the fence. The figure was
+of most gigantic stature, and changed its appearance as often as
+the enchanted Turk in our puppet-shows. It held in its hand a
+sword, and by its motions, as well as the commanding attitude it
+assumed over the other actors, appeared to be the director of the
+pageant. Another fellow in a sack was then<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_118">[118]</span> brought out, and being placed bolt upright
+by the side of the figure, by the application of a slight blow,
+fell near to its peaceable companion, and by a little shifting
+contrived to get its head close to that of the other. The mouths of
+the two sacks having been previously unsewn, the contents of the
+one crawled into the other, and after these formalities the
+representation of the boa presently began. The reptile at first
+thrust its head out of the bag and attempted to lay hold of the
+tremendous figure, who contrived, dexterously enough, to make it
+draw itself into the sack again by a flourish of his weapon, which
+the knowing animal appeared to understand perfectly well. The head
+of the boa was then jutted out in a different direction, and by
+degrees the whole body protruded itself from the place of its
+confinement into open day light, and remained exposed for a few
+seconds to the gaze of the multitude. It appeared to be about
+fourteen feet in length, and by reason of the painted cloth with
+which it was covered, might easily be mistaken for the animal it
+was intended to represent. The angry monster, after a
+short<span class="pagenum" id="Page_119">[119]</span> pause,
+pursued the fantastical figure with the sword, rather slowly, to be
+sure, but withal very naturally—going through the motions of a
+snake by coiling itself round like a rope, opening and shutting its
+jaws, and darting out its forked tongue; all of which elicited the
+rapturous applauses of the bystanders. But the pursued, although it
+never was at a greater distance from the reptile than a few feet,
+never had the courage to come in contact with its fangs. At length,
+at a given signal by the manager, the whole troop of actors rushed
+to the spot; they were then sackless, but their features were
+effectually concealed by masks reaching to the bosom. The figure
+then began to act on the offensive, by chopping the irritated
+monster’s tail with his weapon in a shocking and most unmerciful
+manner. The snake apparently writhed in agony, and convulsively
+twisting its body for a few moments, whilst it endeavoured, without
+effect, to be revenged on its formidable adversary by extending its
+neck to bite; when life seeming to be nearly extinguished, it was
+borne off on the shoulders of the actors to the fetish-house.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_120">[120]</span>The third and
+last part of this extraordinary ceremony, consisted in the
+representation of the caricature of a white man. One of the
+sack-dancers, placed by himself on a clear spot of ground, near to
+the palm-tree, gradually detached his covering, and exposed the
+figure of a man, of a chalky whiteness, to the fixed looks of the
+people, who set up so terrific a shout of approbation that it
+startled us, prepared as we had been to expect some such explosion.
+The figure walked but indifferently well, and mimicked our actions
+as badly; the composition with which it was bedaubed, evidently
+preventing the actor from using his limbs freely, or performing his
+part with the facility he could have wished; although his
+embarrassment was apparent to us, yet the populace did not seem to
+take the least notice of this defect, and an universal roar of
+laughter expressed the delight which filled every bosom. The
+pantomimic incident had now attained its utmost bounds, and all
+eyes, swimming in tears, were directed first to us, and then to the
+intended representation of us, as much as to say, “what a faithful
+and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_121">[121]</span> striking
+resemblance!” We entered most cordially into the good humour of the
+moment, not so much on account of the clumsy and unsightly figure
+before us, as to see a vast circle of white teeth grinning at the
+same moment, and producing an irresistibly ludicrous effect. After
+exhibiting himself in this manner about an hour, the white man was
+enveloped in his sack, and borne, like the serpent, to the
+fetish-house, when the amusements ended, and the people quietly
+dispersed. Between the acts we were entertained with a concert of
+drums and whistles, as well as country songs from the females who
+were present, in the choruses of which the people generally
+joined.</p>
+
+<p>The Yarro messengers, of whom Mansolah had spoken, having
+returned, and given a favorable report of the state of the roads,
+on Monday the 6th of March, we bade adieu to Katunga, its ruler,
+and inhabitants, and pursued our journey, attended by the same
+escort that had conducted us into the city. Mr. Houtson was left
+behind, and returned to the coast, where he was almost immediately
+seized with fever, and expired<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_122">[122]</span> after an illness of only a few days. Our
+party was therefore reduced to two Europeans only, my master and
+myself.</p>
+
+<p>We passed through several villages which had been pillaged and
+burnt by the Falatahs, on the following and three successive days;
+and on the 11th we arrived at a mean dirty-looking village,
+remarkable only as being the first in the Borghoo country.</p>
+
+<p>The huts of the inhabitants are constructed in a circular form,
+after the Bornou fashion, and their tops ornamented with
+crocodiles’ eggs, considered as an effectual protection against the
+ravages of those animals, which are much dreaded by all classes,
+but with what justice I know not. We left the village at four
+o’clock in the afternoon; and the horse on which I rode being in
+better condition than the others, I was considerably in advance of
+the rest of the party, when the animal made a sudden halt, and all
+my endeavours were inadequate to make him proceed. There he stood
+like a block of marble, keeping his eyes rivetted on something that
+was approaching us, and I had scarcely time<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_123">[123]</span> to consider what it could possibly be,
+when a fine antelope bounded before me with incredible swiftness,
+and in the next moment two huge lions, with mane and tail erect,
+crossed the path but a couple of yards from the horse’s head,
+almost with equal speed, and covered with foam. A tremendous roar,
+which made the forest tremble, informed me in another minute that
+the lions had overtaken their prey; but the sudden and unexpected
+appearance of those ferocious animals startled me as much as it had
+intimidated the horse before, and I hastened back to the party, my
+poor beast trembling violently the whole of the way. Fortunately
+the lions, which were male and female, were so eager in the chase,
+that both the horse and its rider were unobserved by them;
+otherwise it might have gone hard with me, for I saw not the
+slightest chance of escaping. We halted in the woods that night;
+but fancying every sound I heard was the roaring of a lion, I could
+not compose myself to sleep. Next day I was severely indisposed,
+and the party was obliged to stop several times on the road on my
+account; a languid faintness frequently overpowering
+me,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_124">[124]</span> and rendering
+me insensible to surrounding objects. We put up at a town called
+Socka for the night, and on the 13th an escort from the king of
+Khiama arrived, mounted on excellent horses, little inferior to the
+English breed; but after delivering their monarch’s message, the
+fellows very unceremoniously began plundering the villagers of
+goats, pigs, and poultry. The escort consisted of fifty horsemen,
+bold, fierce-looking fellows, more resembling a desperate band of
+robbers than peaceably-disposed individuals.</p>
+
+<p>Traversing a pleasant and fertile country, we entered the city
+of Khiama about ten in the morning, and were immediately conducted
+to the house of his majesty, whom we found sitting under the porch
+of his door, chucking some of his young wives under the chin. After
+shaking hands, he expressed a wish for us to repose ourselves till
+the heat of the day was over, and said he would pay us a visit in
+the cool of the evening.</p>
+
+<p>The king redeemed his pledge, and came at the appointed time,
+riding on one of the handsomest horses I ever saw. He was attended
+by numbers<span class="pagenum" id="Page_125">[125]</span> of
+people on horseback and on foot, and half a dozen naked girls
+<em>circling</em> round the animal on which he rode, flourishing
+spears with which they were furnished, and singing, in a loud
+voice, the praises of their husband and prince. Yarro (that is the
+monarch’s name) dismounted and entered our house, followed by the
+girls, who had left their weapons outside, and for decency’s sake
+had wrapped a piece of striped cotton round their delicate waists.
+After an hour’s conversation, in the course of which Captain
+Clapperton informed him of our motives for visiting his country,
+whither we intended to go, &amp;c. the king left us, infinitely
+pleased, and the extraordinary procession returned in much the same
+order as it had come. A few minutes only had elapsed, when we were
+favored with a visit from the chief of a Houssa gafflee, or caravan
+(returned the day before from Gonja and Ashantee), and accompanied
+by a native of Bornou, both of whom strongly advised us to quit
+Khiama with as little delay as possible, asserting that the
+inhabitants were thieves to a man, and would not let slip the
+opportunity of putting<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_126">[126]</span> their pilfering propensity to the trial on
+our goods and baggage. The Houssa caravan consisted of about a
+thousand individuals of both sexes, many of whom traded in the kola
+or goora nut. This nut, which is in high esteem and general use all
+through the interior, is frequently applied to the same purpose as
+the calumet of peace amongst the North American Indians, and is
+likewise used on all public occasions to testify the good
+understanding that prevails in the assembly: when presented to
+private individuals, it signifies that there is peace between the
+donor and receiver. The kola is the fruit of a beautiful tree,
+growing in abundance on many parts of the coast, and is an
+agreeable bitter and astringent; it also produces a rich yellow
+dye, which is oftentimes used by the natives in the embellishment
+of their persons. In some districts the nut is exceedingly scarce,
+and fetches an exhorbitant price; hence the traffic in it is
+carried on to an incredible extent, and yields an immense profit to
+those who are venturesome enough to risk the dangers of a long and
+perilous journey.</p>
+
+<p>Having been provided with a messenger,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_127">[127]</span> carriers, and horses, we quitted Khiama on
+the 18th, without experiencing, whilst in the city, any of the
+inconveniences we had been led to apprehend—the Houssa caravan had
+left us an hour or two previously, to proceed on the same road as
+ourselves. In the course of the morning we passed through two
+villages, excessively clean, inhabited by Falatahs, who were
+chiefly employed in pounding corn in wooden mortars; and sleeping
+at Bonàga, we overtook the caravan on Sunday the 19th. It was
+composed of a long line of horsemen, and people of both sexes on
+foot, loaded with bundles, both men and beasts apparently heartily
+tired with their long march. The women with them, as in every other
+instance that came within the compass of our own observation, bore
+the heaviest burdens, and seemed actually sinking to the earth with
+heat and fatigue, without exciting the compassion, or obtaining the
+assistance of the ruder and stronger companions of their journey;
+although several of the latter had little else to do besides
+keeping pace with the horses. We slept<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_128">[128]</span> in a wood, under a tree, for the night,
+about half a mile from the Gonja traders.</p>
+
+<p>The country travelled over since we had left Katunga differed
+but slightly from the descriptions which have already been given of
+the other parts; the soil generally consisting of a rich reddish
+loam, intermixed with fine gravel. In some places it is thickly
+wooded, but in others not more than a dozen trees are to be found
+on an acre of land; on all sides, however, it is highly picturesque
+and beautiful.</p>
+
+<p>Numerous traces of antelopes, elephants, &amp;c. were observable
+in the path; but (except in the instance before mentioned) we saw
+but few of those animals. The natives hunt the former, and with
+spears and poisoned arrows contrive to procure great numbers of
+them. The arrow is a speedy and effectual means of destroying wild
+animals; for being tipped with poison, the wound it inflicts is
+sure to prove mortal, although not quite so instantaneously as the
+natives would make one believe. The flesh of antelopes slain in
+this manner is eaten with avidity by the people, the hunters simply
+cutting off the parts<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_129">[129]</span> near which the arrow may happen to
+penetrate. When this vegetable poison is taken internally it
+produces no pernicious effects, and it is only when it mingles with
+the blood that its consequences are so fatal. The natives, who,
+like the vulgar in Europe, are fond of the wonderful, tell a
+thousand singular stories respecting its malignancy, which are too
+improbable and ridiculous to be believed.</p>
+
+<p>At Barakina, a small but pleasant village, we met a hunter, clad
+in a leopard’s skin, returning from the chase, with his bow and
+arrows slung on his shoulder, and a light spear in his hand; a man
+with a dead antelope followed at a little distance; and three
+panting hounds, whose tongues, lolling out of their mouths,
+betrayed the severity of the exercise they had undergone, came
+after the man. The sable Nimrod took not the least notice of us,
+but passed through the village as incuriously as if he had been in
+the habit of seeing white faces every day.</p>
+
+<p>At twelve at noon on the same day we crossed a river said to
+take its rise in Nyffé, and to flow into the Niger above Rakah.
+Alligators<span class="pagenum" id="Page_130">[130]</span> were
+plentiful in the river, and one of our carriers, who was sent to
+fetch a calabash of water, was pursued by one of these monsters
+almost up to the trees under which our little party was encamped.
+The poor fellow was terribly frightened, and out of breath, on
+approaching us; and not all the promises in the world could induce
+him to make a second visit to the river.</p>
+
+<p>Our ears were ravished by the warbling of hundreds of small
+birds, which, with parrots and parroquets, peopled the branches of
+the trees in the vicinity of the stream, whose delightful banks
+were thereby overshadowed; and the eye was incessantly saluted with
+a variety of beautiful objects—groves of noble trees, verdant
+hills, and smiling plains, through which the river winded, carrying
+fertility and beauty in its course, and altogether forming a rich
+and charming landscape.</p>
+
+<p>We slept at Billa, a village on the south side of the river, in
+the night; and on the morning of Tuesday an escort of four horsemen
+arrived from the chief, or King of Wow Wow, to conduct us to that
+city, where we arrived after a<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_131">[131]</span> journey of four hours, and took our station
+outside the monarch’s house, till its royal inmate, who was
+dressing to receive us, should make his appearance. After putting
+our patience to a severe trial, the King at length came out,
+supported on a staff, and walking with the solemn pace of a
+Spaniard up to our tree, seated himself on a stool that had been
+previously placed there for that purpose. We then dismounted, but
+were sorely dismayed on observing the chief, contrary to the custom
+of the country, shrinking from our hands which were extended
+towards him, just with as much repugnance as a European would from
+the proffered hand of a leper; but it was only to cover his with
+his tobe, which being done, he shook hands with the utmost
+cordiality. The King being a Mohammedan, fancied that the touch of
+a Christian would defile him; but this stiffness wore off on a more
+familiar acquaintance, and he subsequently displayed the
+characteristic virtues of Africans—generally hospitality and
+benevolence.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening we were visited by fifteen Dahomans, who saluted
+us with a discharge from<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_132">[132]</span> two old rusty muskets. These men had been
+for five months beforehand assisting the Sultan of Youri in his war
+with the Falatahs, and were so far on their return to their own
+country. They extolled to the skies their own prowess in their
+engagements with the Falatahs, whilst they represented the people
+of Youri as the greatest cowards in the world. We were informed by
+them that Niki, five days’ journey from Khiama, is the most
+considerable city in Borghoo; and that it was only about fifteen or
+sixteen days’ journey from Abomey, the capital of Dahomy.</p>
+
+<p>Wow Wow is the metropolis of a province of the same name, in the
+empire of Borghoo, and is governed by a ruler, named Mohammed, a
+Mussulman, strongly addicted to superstition, but of mild,
+unassuming, and pleasing manners. The city lies on a beautiful
+rising ground, with gentle hills on every side; and may contain, on
+a hasty computation, perhaps twenty thousand inhabitants. It is
+surrounded by a high and substantial mud wall, and broad deep
+trench. The houses in it are circular, and the<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_133">[133]</span> streets spacious and airy; and it is
+without exception the neatest, most wholesome, and best regulated
+town of any in the interior. The inhabitants, or at least the
+better sort of them, dress in tobes, caps, and trousers; and are a
+cheerful, thoughtless set of people, yet fonder of music,
+carousing, singing, and dancing, than any people we met with in
+Africa. Drunkenness is their besetting sin; and the beverage in
+most esteem with them is a species of ale, called <em>pitto</em>,
+obtained from Indian corn previously made into malt. The process is
+simple, being much the same as the brewing of beer in England; only
+no hops are added to the malt.</p>
+
+<p>This sad propensity to intoxication, which males and females in
+every <em>grade</em> of society love to cultivate, is the agent of
+many irregularities, and cause their notions of morality to be so
+very lax, that chastity itself is barely acknowledged by them as an
+excellence; nevertheless the people of Wow Wow have many
+substantial virtues, and agreeable qualities, which one can hardly
+help loving them for. Their generous hospitality is unbounded, and
+a parcel of more<span class="pagenum" id="Page_134">[134]</span>
+merry, facetious, happy scoundrels than the generality of them is
+not to be found in the world.</p>
+
+<p>The soil in the neighbourhood of Wow Wow is surprisingly rich
+and heavy; so that many of the necessaries of life spring up almost
+spontaneously from the earth, and others require but trifling
+labour in their cultivation and general management; hence the
+people have abundance of leisure, which they employ in feasting,
+drinking, sleeping, visiting, and oftentimes in less innocent
+recreations than these.</p>
+
+<p>The direct road from Badagry, Gonja, Dahomy, Ashantee, Jannah—to
+Nyffée, Houssa, Bornou, &amp;c. lying through the town, its
+inhabitants are supplied with many of the luxuries of life at a
+more reasonable rate than their countrymen in less frequented
+districts, and their habitations have consequently more pretensions
+to <em>comfort</em> than those of any people between Badagry and
+Soccatoo.</p>
+
+<p>Articles of merchandise, of English manufacture, such as
+Manchester goods, pewter plates, jugs, and dishes, are very common,
+both in Khiama and Wow Wow; and it is really laughable<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_135">[135]</span> to observe to what elegant
+uses some of the latter are applied.</p>
+
+<p>The religion is either idolatry or Islamism; but these are so
+blended into each other, that it would be difficult to draw a line
+of distinction between the professors of either faith. Bigotry is
+unknown, and the wildest doctrines are tolerated with an amiable
+and forbearing spirit that does the government infinite credit!</p>
+
+<p>The marriages of the people are exceedingly simple, differing in
+no essential particular from the manner in which that ceremony is
+practised amongst Africans generally. A pagan pays his addresses to
+a girl, and if, after a short acquaintance, he fancies she will
+answer his purpose, he simply gives or sends a small present to the
+parents, who rarely raise any obstacles to balk his wishes;
+whereupon the female quits her father’s house, and resides, as long
+as she lives, with her suitor. The courtship of a Mohammedan is
+carried on in much the same fashion, with the addition of reading
+the <em>fatha</em> (marriage ceremony). When tired of each other
+the “fatha” is again read, and the couple part for
+ever,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_136">[136]</span> (although
+they may have lived together for twenty years,) with as much
+coolness and unconcern as if they had been utter strangers to each
+other. This <em>convenient</em> custom is greatly relished by every
+one, and is seldom known to produce any unpleasant
+consequences.</p>
+
+<p>The Africans have less of <em>sentiment</em> in their love
+affairs than Europeans; they have no stolen interviews—no rambling
+in verdant fields—no affectionate squeezes of the hand—no language
+of the eyes—no refined feeling—no moonlight reveries; all is
+conducted in the most unpoetical business-like way imaginable, and
+is considered in the light of one of their least important
+concerns; the lover merely saying to his intended bride, “Should
+you like to become my wife, my dear?” to which the lady replies, “I
+have no objection.” “Then come and live with me,” retorts the man;
+and from that hour the couple reside together. This is the
+beginning and end of their courtship, and I never heard of a
+refusal on the lady’s part to embrace the proposal. The notions of
+female perfection amongst the people consist in the bulk,
+plumpness, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_137">[137]</span>
+rotundity of the object; and a perfect beauty in their estimation,
+as it has often been remarked, is “a load for a camel!” This
+delicacy of taste is as general in Africa as it is in Turkey in
+Europe, although I never heard that the natives of the former
+country use any artificial means of increasing the size of their
+daughters, in order to their obtaining admirers. Allowing the
+qualities of bulk, &amp;c. to be the criterion of beauty, the widow
+Zuma, who will by and by be introduced, would bear away the palm of
+superiority from every competitor, that lady being a whole world of
+fat and loveliness! and consequently the most elegant, the most
+charming, the most graceful, the most amiable, the most captivating
+beauty in the continent of Africa!!</p>
+
+<p>The ideas of handsomeness entertained by the <em>fair</em> sex,
+with regard to their male companions, are extremely vague, and it
+is even difficult to ascertain whether they have any notion of
+comeliness at all; for a lady eagerly embraces the first offer,
+even if the fellow that makes it be as old as Methusala, and ugly
+as Sin. As a proof of<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_138">[138]</span> this, I knew a pretty girl at Wow Wow,
+blooming with youth, and full of life and spirit, possessing
+besides uncommon shrewdness for an African: to this individual a
+tall, lanky, phantom-like man, evidently tottering on the brink of
+the grave, whose lantern jaws were of a truly formidable length,
+and who squinted most divinely, offered himself, and was of course
+accepted, although he had upwards of twenty wives at the time. On
+my questioning the damsel as to the reasons of her acceptance of a
+person so excessively old and ugly as her spouse, she answered very
+smartly something equivalent to the ancient saying still in use
+amongst the lower class of people in England, “a toad is a pearl in
+a duck’s eye!” and instantly left me. No doubt the number of wives
+of the old gentleman, which in Europe would be considered as a
+serious grievance, was one of the principal motives that had swayed
+her in the choice she had made; as by that criterion the wealth of
+the party is judged of.</p>
+
+<p>When a husband dies; the wives who have not borne him children
+are sold; whereas those<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_139">[139]</span> who have had that good fortune are free for
+life, or at least till they change their condition a second time.
+The widows wear a rope round their head, neck, and waist, as
+mourning for their deceased husbands, for the space of twelve
+months (if they find no one inclined to make them an offer before
+the expiration of that period), when their weeds are flung off, and
+they cheerfully resume their ordinary apparel.</p>
+
+<p>When a Borghoo man dies, a pit is dug, either in his own house,
+or very near to it, and the body is placed in a sitting posture,
+with the hands and feet tied tightly with cord; the head inclining
+upwards. The horse and dog of the deceased, after being
+slaughtered, are buried with him, to assist him in his
+peregrinations in the other world; and his spear, and bow and
+arrows, are placed over the grave for the same purpose. On my
+questioning an inhabitant of Wow Wow, how it was possible for a man
+so confined to mount the horse, he shook his head, as much as to
+say the subject was of too sacred and delicate a nature to be
+talked lightly of.</p>
+
+<p>The men of Wow Wow are, in most instances,<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_140">[140]</span> tall and well formed, and the women
+handsome, having far greater pretensions to beauty than either the
+people of Yariba, or those of Khiama, a neighbouring state. Numbers
+of horses are kept by the Wow-Wownese, the finest of which are
+imported from Bornou; the native breed, although strong and
+spirited, being excessively small. Horned cattle are much finer,
+and their flesh is superior in quality to those found on the coast.
+They are bred principally by Falatahs, numerous tribes of whom are
+scattered over the face of the country.</p>
+
+<p>Some of these same Falatahs profess the Mahommedan faith, and
+some worship idols, like the natives themselves, whilst others have
+no outward form of religion at all. Many of them are for ever
+wandering from place to place, like the Bedouin Arabs, and others
+spend a tranquil existence in the occupations of pasturage and
+agriculture. Several are suspected of stirring up the minds of the
+people against their rulers, and treated accordingly with as much
+contumely and disrespect as the Jews in some countries of Europe;
+and others again contribute, in an essential<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_141">[141]</span> degree, to the comforts and convenience
+of the community in whose towns they may happen to dwell, and by
+whom they are esteemed and caressed; but all have less simplicity
+in their manners, and infinitely more art in their dealings, than
+those of the negro cast of feature, and, to every appearance, are a
+stage further advanced in civilization than they.</p>
+
+<p>Boussa is a province contiguous to Wow Wow, whose capital is
+also called Boussa, and is but one day’s journey, or about twenty
+miles, from the latter place. The island of Boussa, on which the
+city is built, is about three miles in length, and little more than
+one in breadth. It is situated in the river Niger, or, more
+properly speaking, the Quorra, and is chiefly remarkable as the
+place where the enterprising Mr. Park and his companions came by
+their melancholy death. It may contain sixteen or eighteen thousand
+inhabitants. The road to it from Wow Wow in the dry season is
+excellent, but in the wet or rainy months is almost impassable, by
+reason of its proximity to the river, which oftentimes overflows
+its banks. The country between the two capitals is<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_142">[142]</span> hilly, woody, and picturesque,
+rivalling in beauty any portion between Badagry and Soccatoo; and
+its most remarkable feature is a rocky mountain in the shape of a
+cone, which Captain Clapperton called, after the reigning Monarch
+of England, “Mount George.”</p>
+
+<p>Thick woods approach even to the margin of the Quorra, and are
+tenanted by an ancient tribe of people termed Cumbrie (or
+Cumbrians), by all accounts the aborigines of the country, a
+harmless stupid race, who, from their tractable dispositions and
+love of tranquillity, are frequently imposed on by their spirited
+and more artful neighbours, and sold into slavery whenever a
+favourable opportunity can be obtained of kidnapping them.</p>
+
+<p>Many heavy branches of trees overhang, and, as it were, embrace
+the Menài, a branch of the Quorra, as it flows by, and impart a
+darkness and melancholy to the spot which are any thing but
+agreeable or enlivening. It was nearly sunset when I got into the
+canoe, in which I was ferried across the stream to Boussa; the
+evening was calm, clear, and beautiful; the fire-fly had
+already<span class="pagenum" id="Page_143">[143]</span> begun to
+shine and buzz in the air; the hollow roar of the crocodile was
+heard from the borders of the current, and the declining sun had
+tinged the surface of the water with a rich hue of crimson. The
+sound of sweet-toned instruments, and the hum of human voices
+mingling in concert, and wafted from the city to which I was
+approaching, produced a soothing and delightful effect; and as the
+little bark was propelled slowly through the lazy stream, the music
+sounded like a symphony of angels’ voices floating from the
+skies.</p>
+
+<p>The owner of the boat pointed out the spot where my daring
+countrymen had so unfortunately perished. After quitting it, their
+canoe had drifted on a reef of sunken rocks, not more than half a
+stone’s throw from the island, and had gone to pieces.</p>
+
+<p>Numerous small islands jut up from the bosom of the Quorra,
+which, near Boussa, branches into three distinct streams; but they
+are uninhabited, and little better than naked rocks. Two of the
+above streams flow sluggishly onwards, whilst the other rolls with
+a rapid current, fretting<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_144">[144]</span> and foaming over vast masses of stone, and
+creates a noise which at a little distance might be mistaken for
+that produced by the waving of a forest of tall trees, when
+agitated by the wind.</p>
+
+<p>The Sultan of Youri, understanding that we intended visiting
+Boussa, had sent a messenger to that place a week before our
+arrival there, (with seven canoes laden with provisions,) to
+conduct us to the capital of his empire; but reports from various
+quarters agreed in representing the Prince of Youri to be a cruel,
+treacherous, and wicked man; and this fact, combined with the
+advanced state of the season, succeeded in deterring Captain
+Clapperton from embracing the monarch’s offer. He told the
+messenger, however, that it was solely on account of the rainy
+season so soon setting in, that he was obliged to decline his
+Sovereign’s proposal, but that he would certainly pay him a visit
+on his return from Bornou.</p>
+
+<p>We had all along been buoyed up with the hope of being able to
+obtain the journal and papers of the late Mungo Park at Boussa;
+but, to our great mortification and disappointment<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_145">[145]</span> we discovered, that they had
+been either destroyed, or conveyed no one could tell whither, many
+years before. The inhabitants were exceedingly reserved on the
+subject of the fatal catastrophe, and uniformly gave equivocating
+or evasive answers to our enquiries as to the manner in which it
+had occurred. They seemed indeed overwhelmed with shame at the part
+they or their fathers had taken in the dreadful tragedy, and did
+all in their power to shift the blame from the shoulders of
+themselves and their countrymen.</p>
+
+<p>The following appeared the most accurate and best authenticated
+version of the dismal story of the deaths of Park and Martin, that
+I was enabled to obtain whilst I was in the country:</p>
+
+<p>The voyagers had reached Youri in safety, and were on intimate
+and familiar terms with its Sultan, father to the reigning prince,
+who intreated them to finish their journey through the country by
+land, instead of proceeding down the Quorra to the salt water;
+observing, that the people inhabiting the islands and borders of
+the river, were ferocious in their manners, and would<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_146">[146]</span> not suffer their canoe to
+proceed without having first rifled it of its contents, and exposed
+them to every species of indignity and insult; and that if their
+lives were spared, they would infallibly be detained as domestic
+slaves. This evil report was considered as the effect of jealousy
+and prejudice: and, disregarding the prudent counsel of the Sultan
+of Youri, the ill-fated adventurers proceeded down the Quorra as
+far as the island of Boussa, from whence their strange-looking
+canoe was observed by one or two of the inhabitants, whose shouts
+brought numbers of their companions, armed with bows and arrows, to
+the spot. At that time the usurpations of the Falatahs had begun to
+be the general talk of the black population of the country, so that
+the people of Boussa, who had only <em>heard</em> of that warlike
+nation, fancied Mr. Park and his associates to be some of them,
+coming with the intention of taking their town, and subjugating its
+inhabitants. Under this impression, they saluted the unfortunate
+Englishmen from the beach with showers of missiles and poisoned
+arrows, which were returned by the latter with a discharge
+of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_147">[147]</span> musketry. A
+small white flag had been previously waved by our countrymen, in
+token of their peaceable intentions; but this symbol not being
+understood by the people of Boussa, they continued firing arrows,
+till they were joined by the whole male population of the island,
+when the unequal contest was renewed with greater violence than
+ever. In the meantime the Englishmen, with the blacks they had with
+them, kept firing unceasingly amongst the multitude on shore,
+killing many, and wounding a still greater number, till their
+ammunition being expended, and seeing every hope of life cut off,
+they threw their goods overboard; and desiring their sable
+assistants to swim towards the beach, locked themselves firmly in
+each other’s arms, and springing into the water, instantly sank,
+and were never seen again.</p>
+
+<p>The bodies of the two slaves, who attempted to save their lives
+by swimming, were pierced with a grove of arrows, but they
+subsequently recovered from the effects of their wounds, and were
+certainly alive when we were at Boussa, but, as I understood
+afterwards, they were carefully<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_148">[148]</span> concealed, in order to prevent our making
+any inquiries of them relative to the affair.</p>
+
+<p>Resistance being thus at an end, the floating property had been
+eagerly laid hold of by the people of Boussa, and taken in triumph
+to their city. In the evening they formed a circle round it, and
+for several days and nights nothing was to be seen or heard but
+feasting and rejoicing; but it happened that before their revelries
+were well over, an infectious disease, whereof they had not
+previously had the most distant idea, raged in the island, and
+swept off the Sultan, with numbers of his subjects; and it was
+remarked, that those who had been most active in the destruction of
+the strangers were cut off to a man, expiring in great agony. The
+people endeavoured to appease the wrath of the white man’s God, (by
+whose instrumentality they were firmly persuaded the destroying
+plague had reached them,) by the offering of sacrifices, and
+afterwards by setting fire to all the articles found on the surface
+of the water; shortly after which, it is asserted, the pestilence
+left the island. Meantime the news of the occurrence, and its
+fatal<span class="pagenum" id="Page_149">[149]</span> results,
+spread like wild-fire through the neighbouring states; and the
+people of Boussa were stigmatized with a reproachful epithet, for
+having been guilty of so heinous a crime. Hence the studied reserve
+of the reigning Sultan and his subjects, which no consideration
+could tempt them to break through, so as to enter into the details
+of the tragedy; and hence also the expression, so beneficial to us
+in those regions, and so prevalent amongst all ranks and
+conditions: “Do not hurt the white men; for if you do, you <em>will
+perish like the people of Boussa!</em>”</p>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_150">[150]</span><a id=
+"c06"></a>CHAPTER VI.</h2>
+
+<hr class="decor width5">
+
+<p class="csum">Widow Zuma’s love adventures — Departure from Wow
+Wow — Arrival at Coulfo — Civil war in Nyffé — Ceremonies observed
+by the people of Coulfo at the end of the Rhamadan — Tornado at
+that place, and its disastrous consequences — The Travellers quit
+Coulfo, and proceed on their journey — The Author attacked with
+dysentery — His sufferings — Noble conduct of Captain Clapperton
+towards him — They enter Zeg Zeg — Arrive at Kano.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Whilst</span> we remained in the city of Wow
+Wow, we were visited almost every day by a widow lady, of Arab
+extraction, named <em>Zuma</em> (<em>Honey</em> in English),
+between thirty and forty years of age, who, if one might be allowed
+to judge from the remaining charms which were still visible in her
+countenance, had been really beautiful in her younger years. This
+individual was vastly rich, being the acknowledged mistress of a
+thousand slaves; and from her excessive<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_151">[151]</span> plumpness, and extraordinary size, was the
+exact counterpart of our bulky friend Ebo, the fat eunuch of
+Katunga. Zuma’s affection for my master and myself was unbounded,
+and as it led to an adventure perhaps never equalled in novelty by
+any incident that has occurred to Europeans in the bosom of Africa,
+I hope I may be forgiven in attempting to trace its causes and
+effects, without which my narrative would be incomplete; for they
+are so intimately connected with each other, that it would be
+impossible to disunite them.</p>
+
+<p>In order to give a clearer idea of the story, it will be
+necessary to remark, that Zuma was married in early life to one of
+the principal inhabitants of Wow Wow; but her spouse dying shortly
+after she had given birth to a son, she was left immensely rich,
+and lived in almost regal splendour in the native town of her
+deceased husband. Nature had endowed Zuma with an active, restless,
+and ambitious mind; insomuch that not long after she had become a
+widow, and before the regular term of mourning had expired, her
+weeds were thrown aside, and<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_152">[152]</span> she aspired to the government of Wow Wow,
+by attempting to depose her sovereign. But Mohammed, although an
+imbecile and superstitious prince, could</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0">“Bear, like a Turk, no rival near his
+throne!”</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="nind">and was roused into action at the threatening
+aspect his too powerful subject had assumed. Instantly arming his
+vassals, he made a sudden and unexpected attack on the slaves of
+the rebellious lady, who for want of an efficient leader were put
+completely to the rout, though without bloodshed, and Zuma herself
+taken prisoner. Whether it was owing to the profound veneration in
+which that elegant lady’s charms were held by the monarch, to the
+natural mildness of his disposition, or to the fear of stirring up
+the people against him, I could not learn; but certain it is that
+Zuma was pardoned, and set at liberty, after a confinement of only
+one or two days; and though she had repeated her treasonable
+attempt several times, even up to the period of our visiting the
+city, the same amiable forbearance had been extended to her.</p>
+
+<p>It was the misfortune of the far-famed Zuma<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_153">[153]</span> to fancy herself, for no reason in the
+world, to be extremely fair, and although she had certainly passed
+the “Age of the Passions,” she took it into her head to fall
+desperately in love with me, whose complexion, she affirmed,
+rivalled her own in whiteness! The frequency of her visitations to
+our house nourished the tender feeling, which was encouraged by
+Captain Clapperton, who relished a joke with all his heart, and did
+his utmost to inflame the lady’s passion, by passing a thousand
+unmeaning compliments on the regularity of my features, and the
+handsomeness of my person. “See what beautiful eyes he has,”
+observed the Captain; “if you were to search from Badagry to Wow
+Wow, and from Wow Wow to Bornou, you would not find such eyes.” For
+my own part I was but a novice in the art of courtship, and
+imagining it to be altogether in jest, took little pains to spoil
+the fun by shrinking from it. Besides, Zuma had behaved remarkably
+well to us in sending, repeatedly, presents of provisions, together
+with every luxury with which she was acquainted, and I was rather
+glad than<span class="pagenum" id="Page_154">[154]</span> otherwise
+to have her for our guest,</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent6"><span class=
+"strike word-spaced6">&nbsp;&nbsp;</span>“For the heart must</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Leap kindly back to kindness;”</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="nind">and neither of us wished to offend a lady of her
+consequence by being morose and unsociable in manners, or by
+repelling her advances with ridicule and contempt.</p>
+
+<p>For an hour together the widow would gaze intently on me, while
+the most amorous glances shot from her large, full, and certainly
+beautiful eye, which confused and disconcerted me not a little,
+even though I was surrounded by strangers and in the heart of
+Africa; for I had been a wanderer from my childhood, and had had
+but few opportunities of mingling in the delightful company of the
+gentler sex in my own country, and consequently was excessively
+bashful on coming in contact with ladies, whether in the country of
+the Hottentots, or the birth-place of the widow Zuma.</p>
+
+<p>As for my master, he was sensibly delighted with these
+interviews, and with his arms folded on his breast, while thick
+volumes of tobacco-smoke rolled from his pipe, he with the most
+impenetrable<span class="pagenum" id="Page_155">[155]</span>
+gravity enjoyed the scene, and looked as happy and as much at home
+as if he had been seated by his friends in his native Scotland.
+After the widow’s departure, it was his usual custom, tapping me on
+the shoulder, to ask how I felt my heart, and observe what a boast
+I could make, on our return to England, of so magnificent a
+conquest.</p>
+
+<p>All this I took in good part for some days; but things
+beginning, at length, to wear a more serious aspect than I had at
+first anticipated, I was resolved to bring this whimsical courtship
+to a conclusion as speedily as possible. I was the more inclined to
+do so, because I did not wish to wound the feelings of even a
+<em>black</em> lady (for black she most certainly was, although not
+quite so deep a sable as the aborigines), by trifling with them;
+nor did I forget the exclamation of the frog in the fable:—“It may
+be sport to you, but it is death to us!”</p>
+
+<p>Independently of the delicate state of my health, which
+incapacitated me from carrying on so curious an amour with the
+spirit and gallantry it required, I was positively
+afraid<span class="pagenum" id="Page_156">[156]</span> that, from
+the warmth and energy of Zuma’s embraces, I should actually be
+pressed to death between her monstrous arms! I was but a youth, and
+my short residence in the country had certainly impaired a
+constitution originally robust and vigorous; by reason of which I
+was sadly apprehensive that one of her Brobdignagian hugs would
+send me into the other world with very little ceremony. These
+reflexions I had seriously revolved in my mind; and on her next
+visit I candidly told the widow by signs, words, and gestures, that
+I could not love her; but she either did not or would not
+understand me. I remarked that I should never choose a
+<em>black</em> wife: she pointed to her face, and said she was a
+<em>white</em> woman. I then observed that it would be impossible
+for me to exist in her country, the heat being insupportable. Her
+reply was disinterested and tender:—“Then I will quit it, and
+follow you to whichever part of the world you may be inclined to
+lead me.” Thus beset on all sides, I hardly knew what to say next;
+but after a short pause, summing up all my resolution, I gave my
+greasy inamorata a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_157">[157]</span>
+flat refusal to see her again in the light of a lover, as it was
+out of her power to awaken in my breast a corresponding sensation
+to that which reigned in her own! and saying this I instantly left
+the apartment; whilst Zuma, poor lady,</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0"><span class=
+"strike word-spaced4">&nbsp;&nbsp;</span>“Rais’d a sigh so piteous
+and profound,</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">As it did seem to shatter all her
+bulk,</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">And end her being!”</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>I was surprised, however, to find that my cruelty had produced
+no visible impression on the widow, and that her <em>heart</em> was
+big in proportion to the largeness of her <em>body</em>; for I
+discovered that she could love <em>two</em> individuals at the same
+time with as much ardour and sincerity as <em>one</em> only. Seeing
+all hopes of success effectually shut out on my side, she had the
+good sense to discontinue her solicitations (although she continued
+her kindness), and looked as tenderly on me as ever; and applied
+herself strenuously to be on a more affectionate and familiar
+footing with Captain Clapperton, whose favourable notice she strove
+to attract by all the fascinating allurements she was mistress of;
+and actually went so far as to bribe Pasko, our Houssa interpreter,
+with a young and handsome girl for a wife, in order that he might
+use his <em>powerful</em><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_158">[158]</span> influence to bring the matter between my
+master and herself to an amicable adjustment. The old libertine
+accepted the present with rapture, which made the third or fourth
+spouse he had had since leaving Badagry, but he was prudent enough
+to retain his counsel within his own bosom.</p>
+
+<p>A white husband and happiness were synonymous terms with the
+gentle and delicate Zuma, and she grasped at even the shadow of it
+with an eagerness and determination that caused her to overstep the
+boundaries of that amiable modesty which is so pleasing and
+peculiar a characteristic of her sex, whereby she did more towards
+injuring her own cause than coyness or reserve would have done. The
+Captain carried on the innocent game for some time, for we were
+greatly in want of something to enliven us; and so romantic an
+adventure as this, in such a place, and under such circumstances,
+caused us very many hours of diversion, and was an amusing subject
+of conversation even up to the period of my master’s last illness
+at Soccatoo.</p>
+
+<p>Poor widow Zuma! I almost fancy I see her now, waddling into our
+house, a moving<span class="pagenum" id="Page_159">[159]</span>
+world of flesh, “puffing and blowing like a blacksmith’s bellows,”
+and the very pink and essence of African fashion. Her hair used to
+be carefully dyed with indigo, and of a rich and vivid blue; her
+feet and hands stained with hennah and an extraction of the
+goora-nut, produced alternate streaks of red and yellow; and her
+teeth were also tinged with a delicate crimson stain. In the
+adornment of her person, likewise, the buxom widow evinced
+considerable taste. Her bared neck and bosom were ornamented with
+coral and gold beads, which, contrasted with the dingy colour of
+her skin, occasioned a truly captivating effect! while a dress of
+striped silk, hanging in graceful folds from the waist to the
+ancles, set off her <em>fairy form</em> to the best possible
+advantage! Thus beautified, the accomplished Zuma used to sit
+cross-legged on our mat, and chewing the goora-nut, or a little
+tobacco-snuff, she was without exception the most ravishing object
+that came across our path in all our wanderings!</p>
+
+<p>One day she invited my master to visit her at her own house,
+where she took the opportunity<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_160">[160]</span> of displaying to him her wealth and
+grandeur, the number of her slaves, and her princely domestic
+establishment, all of which the tempter assured him he should share
+with her if he would consent to be her husband. No encouragement
+whatever was given to the lady; but when Capt. Clapperton left the
+town for Boussa a short time afterwards, Madam Zuma, dressed in her
+gaudiest attire, followed when he had got about six miles on his
+journey, having called before she set out to see me. On this
+occasion she wore a mantle of silk and gold, and loose trowsers of
+scarlet silk, with red morocco boots; her blue head was enveloped
+in the ample folds of a white turban, and she rode astride on the
+back of a noble horse, which came prancing before the door of our
+hut, decorated with a number of brass plates and bells, as well as
+a profusion of charms or amulets enclosed in green, red, and yellow
+leather. Her saddle-cloth was of scarlet, and the appearance of
+both widow and horse was singularly imposing. In her train were
+many spearmen on horseback, and bowmen on foot, with a band of
+musicians furnished with<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_161">[161]</span> drums, fiddles, guitars, and flutes, who
+continued playing till their mistress was fairly out of the town.
+The widow briefly told me of her intention to accompany Capt.
+Clapperton to Kano, &amp;c. &amp;c. which eclaircissement startled
+me for an instant; but, putting on my most serious look, I wished
+her a pleasant journey, and hoped I should overtake her myself in a
+day or two. Zuma then took her leave, and the whole cavalcade was
+quickly out of sight.</p>
+
+<p>I was absolutely longing to learn the issue of this strange
+elopement of Zuma’s; and was engaged in making preparations
+previously to my departure for Coulfo, in Nyffé, when a message
+from the king, forbidding my departure from Wow Wow, diverted me
+from my intention, and overturned all my plans. I had an interview
+with the irritated Mohammed the same day, and another on the
+following one; but my efforts to induce him to change his
+resolution were abortive. He turned a deaf ear to all my eloquence,
+and would not suffer me to quit the town for any consideration;
+“For,” said the king, “your countryman has eloped with the
+captious<span class="pagenum" id="Page_162">[162]</span> Zuma, who
+will raise up enemies, and make war upon me, if she be not speedily
+checked; and the better way to accomplish this is to detain you
+here with the baggage, which will bring back the ‘great white man,’
+and the widow will not be able to remain behind long after.”</p>
+
+<p>In order to secure me the more effectually, our house was
+guarded by a dozen soldiers, who had received strict injunctions
+not to let me escape on any account. I contrived, however, to elude
+the vigilance of my keepers, and, taking with me a boy only twelve
+years of age, who had assisted me in making my escape, I hastily
+mounted my Yariba pony, and was on the road to Boussa in an
+instant.</p>
+
+<p>At sunset I crossed the Menài, a branch of the Quorra, leading
+to the island; and after landing shortly entered the city. As soon
+as I was recognized as one of the strangers, a good house was
+immediately prepared for my reception, and I was presently honored
+with a visit from the king and queen, who informed me that my
+master had left Boussa, and that, if I were to travel all night, it
+would be impossible to overtake him<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_163">[163]</span> before the next morning; they would
+therefore insist upon my remaining and sleeping in the city. My
+royal visitors staid with me a considerable time, and the queen
+gave directions about my supper, and even assisted to prepare it
+with her own hands.</p>
+
+<p>A multitude of the usual questions were put to me by their
+majesties, which, on account of my almost total ignorance of the
+language in which they were uttered, I was not very well qualified
+to answer; but, notwithstanding this inconvenience, we succeeded in
+making ourselves pretty well understood; and from the excessive
+kindness, and watchful anxiety to anticipate my wants, displayed by
+the king and his royal consort, it was evident that I was a great
+favourite with them.</p>
+
+<p>The queen had certainly not much of the widow Zuma about her,
+either in appearance or manners; being delicate in person, and
+possessing a native dignity and gracefulness of mien that could not
+fail to please. The features of the royal couple bore a closer
+resemblance to the European than the negro cast, and
+might<span class="pagenum" id="Page_164">[164]</span> be styled
+handsome, even in England; besides which an ineffable sweetness
+shone upon the countenance of Medàki, the queen, and there was an
+agreeableness in the innocent freedom of her deportment that
+captivated me at first sight. A tear of pity trembled in the
+expressive eye of Medàki, when, observing my emaciated looks, and
+surveying me from head to foot, she enquired if I had a mother in
+my own country; and when I answered that I had not, she said, “Poor
+white man! then who have you at home to talk about you, and make
+fetishes for your preservation whilst you remain away?” I was
+certainly not prepared to meet with such extraordinary kindness at
+Boussa; and it shows the great revolution that has taken place in
+the opinions of the people since Mr. Park’s appearance in the
+interior.</p>
+
+<p>I had been extremely unwell before leaving Wow Wow; and my rapid
+journey on the back of a lean horse, without saddle or bridle, had
+nowise improved my health; fatigue also had rendered me so sleepy
+that after supper I could with difficulty keep my eyes open, and
+my<span class="pagenum" id="Page_165">[165]</span> answers to the
+queries of the royal pair were given at random. It was in vain that
+I bit my tongue and lips, and used every other means I could devise
+in order to arouse myself from the stupid state I was in; the
+inclination to slumber overcame them all, and at last I fell fast
+asleep. On awaking in the night I found myself alone, with a
+solitary lamp burning in my apartment; and was informed, an hour or
+two afterwards, that their majesties, as soon as they saw me fairly
+insensible, had left me in the care of two slaves, and returned to
+their own abode, after expressly desiring them to make no noise
+that might awaken me. Next morning I went to the king to apologize
+for my unintentional breach of etiquette; and shaking hands with
+the royal couple, who wished me every happiness, I returned to Wow
+Wow (whither I had learnt Captain Clapperton had also gone back),
+in company of two armed men, who had been furnished as a protection
+against highway robbers, with which the road was declared to be
+infested. On my arrival in the city, I found that my master
+had<span class="pagenum" id="Page_166">[166]</span> entered it but
+a few minutes before, but had not seen the fat widow during his
+absence.</p>
+
+<p>A short time only had elapsed before we resolved to go to the
+king; and being ushered into an apartment, found the important
+personage yawning from the effects of his afternoon’s nap. The
+Captain was the fittest person in the world to deal with the
+African rulers. The first thing he did was to shake hands
+affectionately and heartily with the sullen Mohammed, covering his
+face at the same time with smiles and looks of joy on seeing him
+again; but the king accepted the compliment with just so good a
+grace as a growling mastiff would receive the caresses of a person
+against whom he bears a grudge; neither willing to bite the hand
+that pats its big head, nor wishing to be altogether on a friendly
+footing with its suspected friend. “What pleasure it gives me to
+see you again,” said my master; “I have not beheld so handsome a
+face as yours since leaving the city. I suppose you did not think
+it safe to send my baggage after me; and am therefore come to fetch
+it<span class="pagenum" id="Page_167">[167]</span> myself. I have
+seen the king of Boussa, who, with the Medàki, gave so very
+favorable an account of you, that really I am filled with
+admiration for your talents and virtues; and am sure there cannot
+be your equal in the whole country.” All this the great man
+listened to with a deal of attention, and one could perceive
+plainly enough that the sternness of his features gradually gave
+place to a softer and kindlier expression; indeed, from the
+commencement of the above well-timed encomium, a smile overspread
+his sable countenance which promised the most flattering results.
+His majesty then, with the utmost dignity, detailed his reasons for
+the line of conduct he had been obliged to adopt, in consequence of
+his belief that the Captain and the rebellious Zuma had entered
+into a conspiracy to usurp his authority; that when their
+treasonable object should be accomplished, he would be put out of
+the way, in order that my master might take the reins of government
+into his own hands. He added that the widow had been guilty of
+similar unlawful practices before, but had failed in her attempts;
+and that notwithstanding<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_168">[168]</span> the lenity with which she had been treated,
+her thoughts were perpetually employed in devising means for the
+execution of her ambitious designs; and she had moreover threatened
+him unceasingly with raising an army to overcome and destroy him.
+As this was spoken with an air of great solemnity, and towards the
+latter part of it with emotion, which was plainly evinced by his
+tears, my master thought proper to disclaim, with correspondent
+energy and seriousness, the imputations on his own character, by
+professing himself a total stranger to the widow’s movements from
+the time of his departure from Wow Wow; and as for deposing so
+powerful a prince as Mohammed, and taking Zuma to wife, such things
+were altogether beyond his ambition; and he ridiculed the very idea
+of it. He therefore hoped that the king would no longer refuse his
+permission for the party under his (Captain Clapperton’s) command,
+to go on immediately, as he had bargained with the chief of the
+Houssa caravan to convey the goods to Kano, and he was impatiently
+waiting his arrival at the ferry. The old gentleman, however, was
+not quite so easily prevailed<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_169">[169]</span> upon as we had anticipated; and in all
+probability was smitten with the widow’s charms himself; for he
+declared with firmness, that until the absent lady returned, both
+my master and myself must abandon all thoughts of proceeding on our
+journey, or of again leaving Wow Wow. Further cajolery, we knew,
+would have been superfluous, so we were obliged to make a virtue of
+necessity, and wait patiently the re-appearance of our affectionate
+friend, the amiable Zuma. To our infinite joy that circumstance
+took place on the 5th of April, the day after our conference with
+the prince; the widow had not been able to meet with the object of
+her tender solicitude, and hearing that he had re-visited Wow Wow,
+agreeably to the prediction of Mohammed, returned to that town in
+much the same order as she had quitted it about a week before,
+without discovering the slightest symptoms either of disappointment
+at the ill-success of her jaunt, or fear for having so egregiously
+offended her sovereign.</p>
+
+<p>Like most of her sex, however, Zuma knew perfectly well how to
+adapt her conduct to<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_170">[170]</span> circumstances, and was, moreover, complete
+mistress of the art of dissimulation and deceit; for no sooner had
+she entered her own habitation, than her splendid habiliments were
+instantly thrown aside, and a dress of common country cloth
+substituted in their stead. Thus meanly attired, she paid her
+respects to Mohammed in our presence, and saluted him by falling on
+her knees, with her elbows to the earth, while, supporting her head
+on the palms of her hands, she shed a whole river of tears.
+Surely</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0">“Heav’n gave to woman the peculiar
+grace</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">&nbsp;To spin, to weep, and cully human
+race.”</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="nind">The great man looked sternly on her at first; but
+whose heart could be proof against <em>so much</em> loveliness in
+distress, and in that humiliating posture? Anger forsook his brow,
+as the prince of Wow Wow requested the repentant woman to rise; and
+simply upbraiding her for disregarding his authority and
+threatening to subvert his government, he shook hands, and desired
+her to go her way, but be more cautious of offending him in future.
+The widow accordingly left the house, and shaking the dust
+from<span class="pagenum" id="Page_171">[171]</span> her feet in
+token of bravado, cast a “longing, lingering look behind;”—and we
+saw no more of the generous, the kind-hearted, the affectionate,
+the ambitious, but above all the enormous widow Zuma!</p>
+
+<p>This singular adventure, although it caused us to laugh
+heartily, had been of a much more serious nature than we could have
+foreseen, and had given us much unnecessary trouble, as well as
+occasioned some days’ delay; but when it was thus satisfactorily
+terminated, we resolved to be more guarded in encouraging, even in
+jest, the advances of the African belles, as our lives might
+thereby be endangered, by exciting the prejudices of the people
+against us. The widow being returned, and having promised to abide
+in peace, his majesty of Wow Wow offered no further impediment to
+our departure, and we quitted his capital on the following day.</p>
+
+<p>After passing through three or four insignificant villages,
+inhabited by <em>Cambrie</em>, we arrived at Comoe, a good-sized
+town, about half a mile from the ferry, in which we remained
+three<span class="pagenum" id="Page_172">[172]</span> days, as
+Captain Clapperton was too weak and ill to proceed at an earlier
+period.</p>
+
+<p>On the 10th we crossed the Quorra, running in a southerly
+direction, which is full of diminutive islands, and about the width
+of the Thames at Westminster. We had now left the Borghoo country,
+and were treading on the soil of Nyffé; and notwithstanding the
+unfavorable account every where received of the rapacity,
+dishonesty, and injustice of the natives generally, we ever found
+them strictly honorable in their dealings towards us, good-natured
+and cheerful; and were always ready not only to do a benevolent
+action, but willing to sacrifice personal comfort to our
+accommodation.</p>
+
+<p>At one o’clock we entered Galloway, a village about eight miles
+from the Quorra, where we changed carriers, and reaching another
+village called Yowta, slept there for the night. Iron is found in
+abundance on and in the neighbouring hills, and requires very
+little labour in procuring it. The plains and borders of the river
+were cultivated with yams, millet, the plantain, &amp;c. We
+observed numerous nests of termites (the<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_173">[173]</span> white ants) at and near Yowta, reared by
+those formidable insects to the almost incredible height of twenty
+feet. These immense anthills were constructed of earth or clay,
+divided into distinct apartments, which evinced considerable
+ingenuity, and at a distance greatly resembled the huts of the
+natives.</p>
+
+<p>The country traversed was exceedingly populous, and on the
+eleventh the villages lay at no greater distance from each other
+than two miles; at every one of which we were obliged to change
+carriers, and this caused us infinite trouble and great delay. The
+chief of the Houssa caravan also began to equivocate, raising a
+thousand obstacles in our way, and did all in his power to detain
+us on the road as long as possible, in order that he might avoid
+the Falatahs, who were then at Coulfo, making preparations for
+their return to Soccatoo.</p>
+
+<p>On Wednesday the 12th we crossed a stream, over which was thrown
+a wretched and insecure bridge, the first we had seen in the
+country, and constructed of branches of trees, covered with a thick
+layer of clay; and on reaching a village at<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_174">[174]</span> a short distance from the spot, all our
+carriers, as if by instinct, simultaneously dropped their burdens,
+and scampered off as fast as if they had been running for their
+lives. In a few moments we were surrounded by great numbers of the
+male inhabitants of the place, who were armed with bows and arrows;
+and, pretending not to understand a word of the Houssa language,
+the fellows snatched up the deserted property, and before we had
+time to prevent them, or ask what they intended doing, went off
+with it at an inconceivable rate, we following on horseback, till
+tired and out of breath, the blacks halted at another assemblage of
+huts on the banks of the same stream we had crossed the preceding
+day, forming a portion of Tabria. Resting there for a short period,
+the good-natured people voluntarily caught up the baggage a second
+time, and passing with all haste over a bridge to the opposite side
+of the river, finally stopped in front of the house of one of the
+head men of the place.</p>
+
+<p>The village forms the remaining part of the before mentioned
+town, with which it is connected<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_175">[175]</span> by a miserable old bridge, and it contains
+a great population.</p>
+
+<p>Coming at length to an explanation with the martial carriers of
+our baggage, we had it lodged in a large empty hut for the night;
+but the fellows returned to their town very much dissatisfied with
+the trifle with which they were remunerated; for they had hoped
+that on entering Tabria the property would have become their
+own.</p>
+
+<p>Tabria consists of two towns, lying on the margins of a stream
+or river called the May-yarrow, which are connected together by a
+wooden bridge; and both places may contain eighteen thousand
+inhabitants. They are occasionally visited by the sovereigns of
+Nyffé.</p>
+
+<p>An exterminating civil war had been raging in the kingdom, and
+was still in active operation at the period of our arrival; one
+party of the natives siding with Edrisi, a pagan, the rightful heir
+to the throne of his deceased father; and the other leaning on the
+side of Mohammed, a Mussulman, who had disputed his brother’s right
+of succession. By far the major part of the people, being pagans,
+were decidedly in favour of the former prince; but the
+other<span class="pagenum" id="Page_176">[176]</span> having
+invited the Falatahs to his assistance, had completely beaten his
+less fortunate brother, and it was generally expected that in the
+next campaign Edrisi would be driven from the country; or, if taken
+prisoner, decapitated without mercy. A cessation of hostilities had
+been resolved on by the belligerent parties on the day we entered
+Tabria; but the contest would be resumed, it was affirmed, after
+the rains.</p>
+
+<p>The queen dowager of Nyffé, a decrepit and infirm old lady, one
+of whose eyes had been accidentally shot out of her head by an
+arrow, resided at Tabria, with the head wife of Mohammed. That
+prince himself was at a place three days’ journey from the town;
+and the old queen having intimated to Captain Clapperton, that it
+would be well for him to visit her son, before he quitted the
+country, with a suitable present, my master thought proper to
+accede to the wishes of the queen mother; and leaving me in charge
+of the baggage, &amp;c. carried his intention into effect on the
+21st of April.</p>
+
+<p>During the Captain’s absence I used daily to take a ramble on
+the borders of the May-Yarrow,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_177">[177]</span> and amuse myself with my gun, plenty of
+game existing in the vicinity. The river is serpentine, and of
+irregular breadth; in some places so narrow that a person may
+easily jump across, and at others widening from twenty to thirty
+yards; its depth generally fluctuating between eight and twelve
+feet. Thousands of monkeys inhabit the leafy branches of the trees
+that overhang the stream; and play all manner of mischievous tricks
+on the people who may venture to stroll in that direction. Going
+one day with the design of shooting guinea-fowl, I unintentionally
+killed two of these little animals, and wounded a third, which
+fell, apparently dead, at my feet. I took them to our lodgings, and
+the hostess immediately offered forty cowries for each of them;
+but, perceiving signs of life in the wounded monkey, I kept it,
+with the intention of ascertaining whether it would recover, and
+spared her the slain ones. The good woman, having skinned and
+broiled the animals, sat down to partake of them with two or three
+of her neighbours, and after making a sumptuous<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_178">[178]</span> repast, declared the flesh to
+be sweeter and richer than that of any animal with which she was
+acquainted. One of our landlady’s guests, falling in love with the
+living monkey, took the liberty of stealing it in the night, when,
+no doubt, it shared the fate of its companions.</p>
+
+<p>On the 24th the usurper’s eldest daughter paid me a visit,
+bringing with her a present of yams and rice; and being a very
+agreeable girl, I solicited her so pressingly to take tea with me,
+that the princess accepted the invitation, after which we took a
+walk together through the town, arm in arm, <em>à l’Europe</em>.
+The inhabitants of Fabria stood staring at us with open mouths, for
+some seconds, and wondering greatly what could be the meaning of so
+singular a custom, when they set up so astounding a roar of
+laughter, as put her royal highness fairly out of countenance; and
+I was obliged to re-conduct her to our lodgings with the utmost
+haste. On entering them, I made her a trifling present, with which
+she was infinitely pleased; and the princess of the powerful
+kingdom of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_179">[179]</span> Nyffé
+went away dancing, singing, and capering, and promised to honour me
+with another visit on the morning of the next day.</p>
+
+<p>The Falatahs left Coulfo for Soccatoo the day after our arrival
+at Tabria, with a thousand slaves, some of whom were partizans of
+Edrisi, who had been taken prisoners by that prince. Besides this,
+they compelled Mohammed to present them with four hundred tobes,
+which with the slaves they took to Sultan Bello, as a partial
+recompence for the services they had rendered his cause in the late
+desolating campaign. Mohammed, called by his people the
+<em>Magee</em>, was a most cruel and inhuman prince, and the
+greatest scourge that had ever afflicted his country. He had
+poisoned, it was confidently reported, a younger brother and two of
+his sons, for having ventured to express their opinion against his
+wild and inordinate ambition, in attempting to rule the kingdom
+against the interests and inclinations of the people; and because
+they, in common with their countrymen, hated the Falatahs most
+cordially, for the willingness and alacrity they had ever displayed
+to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_180">[180]</span> embroil Nyffé in
+civil war, to the advancement of their own influence, and the
+aggrandizement of their own power.</p>
+
+<p>The war was still raging in Nyffé on my return to that country
+from Houssa, with far different prospects. The pagan brother,
+Edrisi, had recovered from the effects of his defeats, and gained
+important advantages over Mohammed and the Falatahs, his allies.
+This good success was owing to a large body of men having come to
+Edrisi’s assistance from Benin, and inspired with fresh courage his
+disspirited followers. These individuals had proceeded up the
+Quorra in canoes, and landed at <em>Mulagee</em>, a small town in
+Nyffé situated on the banks of that river; a junction was then
+immediately formed with the pagan natives of the country, and an
+attack made on the Mussulmans with European muskets, a great number
+of which they had brought with them; when the latter, with the
+Magee at their head, were defeated with dreadful slaughter, and the
+Falatahs being the objects against whom the fire-arms of the people
+of Benin were more particularly directed,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_181">[181]</span> very few of them, comparatively speaking,
+escaped with life. The week before I revisited Tabria, Mohammed had
+experienced another signal overthrow, and it was generally believed
+by the inhabitants that the remnant of the Falatahs, who had been
+so roughly handled, would be obliged to abandon Nyffé in a few
+days, and return, discomfited, to Soccatoo, in which case Edrisi
+would reign in the kingdom, and Mohammed either follow the
+Falatahs, or lose his life by remaining behind.</p>
+
+<p>On the 25th Captain Clapperton returned from the camp of
+Mohammed, and on Tuesday the 2nd of May we proceeded on our journey
+by a path winding along the delightful banks of the May-yarrow.
+Passing near to Gonda, a walled village, and crossing a broad but
+shallow stream, we entered by one of the gates into the town of
+Coulfo, which is distant from Tabria, in a direct line, only four
+miles.</p>
+
+<p>Coulfo is the most considerable market town in Nyffé, and the
+general emporium of that part of Africa. It contains between
+fifteen and sixteen thousand <em>resident</em> inhabitants, and,
+like<span class="pagenum" id="Page_182">[182]</span> most towns of
+any consideration or extent in the country, is surrounded by a high
+wall, outside of which is a deep and broad ditch.</p>
+
+<p>The May-yarrow flows by the wall of the town, and is a source of
+much comfort to the inhabitants, particularly by reason of its
+imparting an agreeable coolness to the atmosphere, which is very
+desirable in the heat of the day. Markets are daily held at Coulfo,
+and an immense variety of articles, of native and foreign
+manufacture, are exposed for sale in them. Traders resort in vast
+numbers from Bornou and Soccatoo to the north and east, and from
+the sea coast to the west, with the produce and manufactures of
+their respective countries, for which they find ready buyers in the
+town. Slaves, horses, asses, and horned cattle, are brought from
+every part of Africa, as well as silk, wrought and unwrought,
+cotton, natron, beads, turbans, scarlet caps, goora nuts,
+malaguetta pepper, red wood, &amp;c.; the traffic in which is
+carried on to an indefinite extent.</p>
+
+<p>The inhabitants of Coulfo, like the natives of many parts of the
+ivory and gold coasts, anoint<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_183">[183]</span> their bodies with softened clay, or pounded
+wood of the same colour, with which a little grease is invariably
+mixed. They are principally Mahommedans, and perform a few of the
+rites and ceremonies prescribed by the prophet, such as praying a
+given number of times in the day, frequent lustrations of the hands
+and face, and a rigid adherence to the fast of the Rhamadan. In
+other respects, however, they do not conform to the moral precepts
+of the Koran, drunkenness being their ruling passion; and so
+addicted are they to falsehood and deception, and so generally
+prevalent are these vices become, that all sense of their
+impropriety is lost amongst the people, and it is not considered
+discreditable for the most respectable individuals in the town to
+practise these arts upon each other. Theft also may be said to be
+encouraged, in some degree; for, like the ancient Spartans, parents
+praise the spirit and ingenuity of the junior branches of the
+community who pilfer articles of trifling value from their
+neighbours, without being detected in the act.</p>
+
+<p>The females set off their charms to the best<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_184">[184]</span> advantage, by staining their
+hair, teeth, hands, and feet, in a similar manner to that of the
+widow Zuma, which has already been described. This practice, which
+is common to all ranks, and without adhering to which beauty cannot
+exist in their eyes, in all probability is derived from the Moors
+or Saracens, many of whose habits were copied by the natives at the
+time of their irruption into the country, and still maintain the
+ascendancy which they at first assumed. The more glaring the colour
+of the dye on the persons of the <em>fair</em> sex, the more
+fascinating is the object in the eyes of the men of Coulfo—hence
+the pains every young woman takes to attract the admiration and win
+the love of her male companion by bright blue hair, red teeth,
+yellow hands, &amp;c.; but above all, by keeping her body supple
+and yielding by the use of red clay. It is hardly possible to
+conceive the jealousies, and the thousand other afflicting passions
+that spring up in the breast of a lady, if the person of another
+excels her own in brilliancy of colouring. I have seen the poor
+things shed floods of tears on this<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_185">[185]</span> account; and on one occasion, in
+particular, was greatly moved at observing a girl of our landlady’s
+acquaintance sighing and sobbing in a corner of our room, because
+<em>Nuggree</em>, her lover, had told her a few minutes before,
+that her teeth were not quite of so bright a red as those of her
+female companion!</p>
+
+<p>Whilst we remained at Coulfo, a messenger from our friend, the
+king of Boussa, arrived with a present of a beautiful little mare
+for my master, accompanied by a female slave, who brought butter
+and rice from the Queen to Captain Clapperton and myself. His
+majesty had desired the man to caution us against partaking of any
+food that might be sent from the female relatives of the usurper of
+Nyffé, it being their avowed intention to poison us by that means.
+This information, joined with other circumstances, rendered us
+infinitely more suspicious than we had previously been, and obliged
+us to use greater caution in accepting presents of provisions from
+doubtful quarters. From that time it was our usual custom to
+interrogate the individual bringing butter, &amp;c. and if he
+evinced<span class="pagenum" id="Page_186">[186]</span> the least
+reluctance to answer our questions, or betrayed the slightest
+symptoms of fear or timidity in our presence, he was compelled to
+eat part of the suspected articles himself, and in case of refusal,
+dismissed with a severe whipping, and his presents thrown away. We
+found this plan extremely serviceable to us, if we might be allowed
+to judge from the hasty retreat of more than one of these
+good-natured individuals.</p>
+
+<p>The new moon, to catch a glimpse of which every eye in Coulfo
+was on the stretch, was seen on Tuesday the 8th of May, and her
+first appearance welcomed by a flourish of trumpets from the
+inhabitants.<a id="FNanchor_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3" class=
+"fnanchor">[3]</a> This concluded the fast of the Rhamadan; and the
+following day was kept as a holiday for feasting and rejoicing by
+every individual in the place, amongst all classes, and of every
+sect and party,—thousands of both sexes from the neighbouring towns
+and villages flocking into it, in order to participate<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_187">[187]</span> in the festivities and
+amusements of the occasion. Men and boys, old women and young
+maidens, slave and free, Mahommedan and Pagan, forgot all
+distinctions of rank, and difference in age and modes of
+worship,—and joining in the song and the dance, drank palm-wine and
+<em>booza</em> together, and before the morning was well over, all
+hands became comfortably drunk. Groups of persons might be seen in
+the afternoon, rambling from one end of the town to the other,
+dancing, capering, tumbling, and hallooing, some reeling to and
+fro, scarcely able to stand, others insensible from excessive
+intoxication; some flung into the river by their boisterous
+companions, and dragged out again half drowned; some smiting their
+breasts, and calling upon the name of the Prophet; others hurrying
+about in every direction; fighting, praying, laughing, weeping; but
+all, from the governor and his ladies to the meanest bondmen and
+slaves,—all drunk in a greater or less degree.</p>
+
+<p>It was now inexpressibly—insufferably hot; not a single zephyr
+panted upon the motionless trees, and the intensity of the sun’s
+rays<span class="pagenum" id="Page_188">[188]</span> threatened to
+set fire to the tenantless huts of the inhabitants. About five or
+six o’clock a sultry haze obscured the firmament, which dispersing
+some time afterwards, a solemn, fearful calm succeeded, and
+continued for an hour or two, the people still enjoying their noisy
+revelry, and loud bursts of merriment resounding from every quarter
+of the town. We, apprehensive of what was to come after, kept our
+eyes intently fixed on the eastern horizon, and at length espied a
+small dark cloud slowly rising from that quarter of the heavens.
+Immediately after the appearance of this object, faint flashes of
+lightning, and distant peals of thunder following in rapid
+succession, convinced us that a tornado was approaching. The people
+at last understanding these symptoms, all was hurry, bustle, and
+confusion, in a moment—the music and dancing suddenly ceased—the
+drunken became sober—a deep, wild, thrilling cry was raised by the
+women, and answered by screams of affright from the children and
+young persons. Meanwhile, the peals of thunder became infinitely
+louder and more appalling, and the lightning<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_189">[189]</span> more intensely vivid than before: the
+clouds in the east gradually rolling towards the zenith in denser
+and heavier masses, a large portion of the heavens was presently
+clothed in almost midnight darkness, when the western horizon
+suddenly opened, and a sea of liquid fire streaming from that
+direction, added a sterner and yet more dreadful grandeur to the
+firmament, exposing by its yellowish glare all the horrors and
+blackness of the scene. The sable curtain that overhung our heads,
+was rent asunder shortly after with a frightful explosion, causing
+the earth to tremble and shake as if the Almighty had set his foot
+upon the world, and reproached the people for their wickedness;
+while the shuddering war-cry, and the tumult and wailings of the
+multitude, mingling with the hollow blast of the tempest, produced
+on us an indescribable effect, and awoke in me an exalted, but
+painful and tremulous emotion of soul, that had nearly overpowered
+me.</p>
+
+<p>To increase the consternation that was depicted on every
+countenance, the town of <em>Balì</em>, containing eleven hundred
+houses, and situated<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_190">[190]</span> about half a mile from Coulfo, was set on
+fire by the lightning; and the piercing cries of its terrified
+inhabitants floating dismally into the latter town, were re-echoed
+by thousands of human voices, which produced a concert of
+melancholy sounds, that caused even the domestic animals to shrink
+with fear.</p>
+
+<p>The hurricane and rain at length ceased, the noise of the people
+was hushed into silence, and the tempestuous elements sank from
+horrid sublimity into their previous state of awful repose. I have
+witnessed many tornados in other parts of the globe;</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0">“But never till that night, never till
+then,</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">&nbsp;Did I go through a tempest dropping
+fire.”</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Next morning I took a walk through the town, and in the country
+in its vicinity: the air, as it generally is after such
+visitations, was delightfully fresh and pleasant, but the earth was
+covered with afflicting proofs of the tremendous power of the
+storm; superb trees, through the trunks of which, if scooped out, a
+coach might easily pass, were torn up by the roots, and their
+gigantic branches shivered into splinters; whilst<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_191">[191]</span> others were indeed standing,
+but scathed and blackened from the effects of the lightning, and
+entirely stripped of their verdant foliage. Fragments and roofs of
+huts, many of them yet smouldering, were scattered in every
+direction; and here and there the dead body of a bird or beast,
+which had perished the preceding night, might be met with.</p>
+
+<p>The destitute inhabitants of Balì came to Coulfo, the day after
+their town had been reduced to ashes, to tell their simple tale of
+distress, and solicit the assistance of their more favoured
+neighbours. I was pleased to see their story listened to with
+tears, and their sorrowful condition ameliorated, with a
+benevolence and zeal that effectually covered the bad qualities of
+the people of Coulfo, and made one forget for a moment that they
+possessed any. In a conversation with one of the sufferers in the
+ill-fated town, I learned that several mothers had perished in the
+flames, while in the act of escaping from them with their tender
+offspring slung to their backs; and it was supposed that many of
+the male sex had shared in the like calamity,<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_192">[192]</span> as they were missing, and no
+intelligence whatever had transpired respecting them. One
+individual, bowed down with years, had snatched up in his arms a
+little boy who was crossing his path, screaming with terror; but,
+just as he had reached the outskirts of the burning town, and was
+congratulating himself on his good fortune, in having preserved his
+own and the child’s life so unexpectedly, a moving mass of fire,
+whirled by the wind, suddenly fell upon him, and both he and his
+charge were scorched to death, in sight of their sorrowing
+relatives.</p>
+
+<p>The town of Balì soon rose from its ruins, and the people, by
+their merriment and vivacity, seemed to forget, a month or two
+afterwards, that any such calamity had befallen it.</p>
+
+<p>The country for miles round Coulfo is studded with walled towns,
+open villages, and clusters of houses; and so jealous are the
+inhabitants of one of these places of the superiority, imaginary or
+real, whether as regards personal bravery or success in
+slave-catching, of another, that, like the natives of rival
+parishes in Cornwall, before the introduction of Methodism
+into<span class="pagenum" id="Page_193">[193]</span> that county,
+or the different sects and orders which agitate Ireland at the
+present time, formally challenge each other, and meet by
+appointment to try the prowess and superiority of their respective
+parties. On such occasions, the combatants arm themselves with
+bludgeons, bows and arrows, and spears; and the conflict is, in
+almost every instance, prosecuted with the bitterness and animosity
+of the most ruthless savages, frequently terminating in the death
+or capture of numbers of each party, when the latter are uniformly
+sold into slavery. Just at the period of our arrival at Coulfo, the
+inhabitants of the walled town of Koofoo, situated but a short
+distance from the former place, having captured and sold, contrary
+to custom, the wife of a man belonging to a neighbouring village,
+who was supposed to have been slain in one of these engagements, a
+mutual system of retaliation and petty warfare was the consequence,
+which had embroiled all the country in domestic dissensions; and
+their war-cry, of all sounds, next to their death-yell, the most
+truly terrific, could be distinctly heard at our lodgings
+in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_194">[194]</span> Coulfo every
+evening. A person connected with either of the disturbed towns
+could not venture out alone, or unarmed, without exposing himself
+to be shot at or pierced by his inveterate antagonists, who made it
+a constant practice to prowl about the country, and spring,
+tiger-like, upon any unsuspecting victim whom pleasure or business
+had induced to quit the boundaries of his native village. These
+intestine commotions, united to the formidable civil war that was
+desolating the kingdom of Nyffé, had caused the minds of the people
+to be in a perpetual state of fermentation and alarm, occasioning
+their angry and incited passions to have the ascendancy over their
+milder virtues; and to this cause is attributable, more than to any
+other, the absence of that kindness and hospitality, amongst the
+natives generally, which were so cheerfully bestowed upon us in the
+less civilized kingdoms of Yariba and Borghoo,—although even the
+people of Nyffé were by no means destitute of the gentle charities
+of life.</p>
+
+<p>The severe and continued indisposition that both my master and
+myself experienced, obliged<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_195">[195]</span> us to remain in the city of Coulfo six or
+seven weeks; but, getting better at the termination of that period,
+we departed on the nineteenth of June, and passing through Koofoo,
+where we slept, and several other villages, encamped outside the
+walled town of Bullabulla on the 21st of the same month. At that
+place I was attacked with dysentery, a truly frightful disorder,
+that causes hope to die within the patient, and puts him altogether
+out of the love of life. The pain it occasioned me was so great,
+and its effects so distressing, that I was unable to keep a regular
+journal of occurrences until my arrival at Kano. On the road to
+that city my sufferings were too acute to be described; and it was
+not unusual for me to lag behind the rest of the party, and,
+dismounting from my horse, to roll myself in the dust, in the hope
+of relieving the agony of the moment, where I remained panting on
+the naked earth, till my master, alarmed at my long absence, would
+light large fires, by the smoke of which I was directed to his
+resting-place. On entering the tent, it was my custom, without
+uttering a word, to fling myself on a<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_196">[196]</span> mat, and, embracing my pillow,<a id=
+"FNanchor_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> to
+sleep, or rather <em>endeavour</em> to sleep till morning. By this
+means I acquired a habit of groaning in my slumbers, of which I
+could not completely divest myself, even for some months after my
+return to England. Whenever we came to a stream which was too deep
+to ford, and unfurnished with a ferry-boat, being too weak myself
+to swim, my generous master used to take me on his shoulders, and,
+oftentimes at the imminent risk of his own life, carry me in safety
+to the opposite bank.</p>
+
+<p>We journeyed over a wooded and partially cultivated country,
+through several populous walled towns and open villages, and
+arrived at Guâri, in Kashna, on Monday the 3d of July.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving that place on the following Friday we continued our
+course, and entered the<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_197">[197]</span> western gate of Zaria, a considerable
+Falatah town, and the capital of the province of Zeg Zeg, on Monday
+the 10th.</p>
+
+<p>The country to the eastward of the town was unspeakably fine,
+and almost clear of wood; and looked as fresh and beautiful as the
+richest parts of England in the summer months. Plantations of rice
+and cotton; fields of undulating corn; meadows covered with a
+lovely verdure; and gentle slopes with herds and flocks grazing and
+browzing on them, looked as picturesque and rural as any landscape
+I had beheld in my own, or indeed any other country.</p>
+
+<p>We remained at Zaria a week, when we again set out; and
+traversing a country charmingly diversified by hills and dales,
+streamlets of water, groves of superb trees peopled with birds of
+the gayest plumage, and enclosures of Indian corn, yams, indigo,
+the cotton plant, wheat, millet, &amp;c. we arrived at Kano on
+Thursday the 20th of July.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_198">[198]</span><a id=
+"c07"></a>CHAPTER VII.</h2>
+
+<hr class="decor width5">
+
+<p class="csum">Residence at Kano — Captain Clapperton leaves for
+Soccatoo — History of Pasko, the Houssa Interpreter — Pasko’s
+robberies and confinement — Return of the Captain with the Godado,
+after an ineffectual attempt to reach Soccatoo — His second
+departure from Kano — His Letters.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">We</span> were mortified beyond measure to
+learn of Hat Sallah, my master’s agent on the former journey, that
+the Bornouese and Falatahs were at war, and in consequence thereof
+that all communication between the two kingdoms had been
+effectually cut off. On hearing of our arrival, the countenances of
+the Arabs in the city brightened up; for they fancied that we
+should be the means of bringing about a permanent peace between the
+belligerents, the war having occasioned the ruin of several of
+them, and threatened the prosperity of the whole.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_199">[199]</span>I had received
+instructions from Captain Clapperton to remain in Kano with the
+baggage, whilst he undertook a journey to Soccatoo and back, it
+being unnecessary to have the goods conveyed so far out of the road
+to Bornou. Therefore on Thursday the 24th of July, every
+arrangement having been previously made, my master came to bid me
+adieu, and give me final instructions relative to proceeding to
+Bornou and Tripoli, in case of his death, or of any unforeseen
+accident that might befall him. On this occasion each of us was
+much moved, and we parted with that unaffected sorrow which the
+circumstances in which we were placed were so eminently calculated
+to call forth. Our little party had left their native country full
+of hope and enterprising spirit, and we had seen them sicken and
+die by our sides without being in a condition to mitigate their
+sufferings, or “smooth down their lonely pillow.” Like the
+characters in Mozart’s “Farewell,” they had dropped one by one; and
+they were buried in a strange land, far from the graves of their
+fathers, with scarce a memento to point out the<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_200">[200]</span> solitary spot. These were my
+thoughts at the moment of separation from my valued master, whom I
+may justly style the preserver of my life. I knew that it was by no
+means unlikely we might never meet again, and we were well assured,
+that in the event of our dissolutions when apart, no one could be
+found to close our eyes, still less to perform the rites of
+Christian burial over our remains. My master therefore left me with
+emotion. For my own part, I was yet, if possible, more sensibly
+agitated; I was ill with dysentery at the time, <em>very</em> ill;
+and throwing myself on my couch as soon as the Captain was out of
+sight, I did not arise from it again for twenty-four hours.</p>
+
+<p>Kano is one of the most important and considerable cities in
+Soudan, and is a general mart for all sorts of merchandize. The
+indigo, manufactured by the inhabitants, has the reputation of
+producing a richer and more permanent dye than is to be met with in
+any other part of Africa whatever, and is on this account in very
+high estimation with all classes of people. The population of the
+town, on a rough computation,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_201">[201]</span> probably exceeds forty thousand souls, the
+major part of whom are slaves, but treated with kindness and
+forbearance by their masters. Arabs and Moors resort thither from
+the Barbary States, for the purposes of trade, and their goods
+realise an immense profit in the market, remunerating them with a
+rapid fortune. The wall of the city, thirty feet in height, and of
+proportionable thickness, encompasses a space of nearly ten English
+miles; but upwards of two-thirds of the ground enclosed is taken up
+with morasses, plantations, and gardens, the dwelling of the
+inhabitants occupying the remaining portion. The houses are built
+in a square form, after the Moorish fashion, of flat roofs covered
+with hardened clay interlaced with palm leaves; and are on the
+whole roomy and comfortable abodes.</p>
+
+<p>The air of Kano is close and insalubrious, and rendered yet more
+unwholesome, in consequence of the number of stagnant pools of
+water, partly filled with putrifying animal and vegetable
+substances, which are tolerated in the town. A most disagreeable
+odour is exhaled by<span class="pagenum" id="Page_202">[202]</span>
+this means; while a large morass intersecting the city from east to
+west, into which the filth of the inhabitants is indiscriminately
+emptied, tends still further towards its general unhealthiness. The
+dead bodies of slaves are frequently cast into this morass, exposed
+to the action of the air or visits of birds of prey; and it is
+truly shocking to observe their mangled members in a state of
+decomposition, and their fleshless bones bleaching in the sun in
+the very heart of the town.</p>
+
+<p>This painful and disgusting spectacle I was oftentimes obliged
+to be a witness to, a week rarely passing without one or more of
+these unregretted corpses being flung into the common receptacle,
+and left to the gaze of the people, amongst whom all sense of
+delicacy in this respect seemed to have been stifled by gross
+familiarity with this revolting custom; by reason of this the
+inhabitants pass by the decaying bodies of their fellow creatures
+with no greater symptoms of repugnance than if they had been the
+remains of their own domestic animals.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_203">[203]</span>I had scarcely
+been in Kano a fortnight, when Pasko, our Houssa interpreter,
+absconded with a few articles of trifling value, and after a
+diligent and persevering search of three days, he was found
+concealed under a heap of yams, in the house of the mother to a
+female he had recently married. He was accompanied to our house by
+his better half, sobbing all the way, who begged me, with much
+earnestness, to forgive her husband for the offence he had been
+guilty of, which I consented to do, but not till after he had
+received a severe scolding, and promised never again to perpetrate
+a crime of a similar nature against me or any one else.</p>
+
+<p>As this old man’s history may not be altogether uninteresting,
+inasmuch as it shows, in a lively point of view, the ridiculous
+superstitions of his countrymen, imbibed in their infant years,
+which no circumstance or change of scene in their after life can
+wholly eradicate, I hope I may be excused for giving a short
+account of his adventures previously to his being engaged in the
+African mission, as repeated solemnly to me several times from his
+own lips, and after<span class="pagenum" id="Page_204">[204]</span>
+that period till his arrival with us at Kano, drawn from personal
+observation.</p>
+
+<p>Pasko’s native name was <em>Abbu Becr</em>, and although this is
+without doubt a Mohammedan appellation, he knew nothing more of
+Islamism than its name, being in reality a Pagan. He was born in
+the district of Goober, and was brother to the reigning prince of
+that country, who at the period of the subjugation of the
+neighbouring provinces to the yoke of Danfodio, Bello’s father,
+ridiculed that wily conqueror’s pretensions to sanctity, and rose
+with his people to dispute his further advances into Houssa. In an
+engagement with the Falatahs, in which Pasko distinguished himself,
+his brother was suddenly metamorphosed into a white elephant! and
+as soon as he was conscious of his melancholy change, rushed into
+the thickest of the fight, trampling to death upwards of two
+hundred of his adversaries, who were panic-struck at the unexpected
+appearance of so formidable an animal amongst them; but rallying a
+short time afterwards, they winged their arrows so effectually,
+that the body of the enormous beast became<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_205">[205]</span> like that of a porcupine, being literally
+covered with them; and this fact, joined to his extraordinary
+exertions and loss of blood, made the intrepid elephant quit the
+field of battle. Lifting up Pasko, therefore, from the ground with
+his proboscis, he repaired to a neighbouring forest, and dropping
+his charge, was transfixed, like Lot’s wife to the spot, by the
+same invisible power that had been so instrumental in bringing
+about his previous alteration of form and nature. Here he stood,
+without the power of stirring an inch, or of moving a limb, and
+although Pasko’s bitter lamentations were heard at a considerable
+distance, the inexorable deity was deaf to these violent bursts of
+sorrow; but his fraternal tenderness would not suffer Pasko to
+leave the place till he had the felicity of beholding trees and
+shrubs grow round the body of the petrified elephant; which third
+miracle took place about three hours after the former ones, and
+completely hid the transformed from the most prying curiosity!</p>
+
+<p>The remainder of Pasko’s history is entitled to a greater share
+of credence. A year or two<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_206">[206]</span> subsequent to the above singular
+occurrence, as Pasko was dancing by the light of the moon, with
+several of his companions, he was kidnapped by a marauding party of
+Falatahs, and sold to a Gonja trader. This man not treating him
+with the kindness he expected, to be revenged Pasko took the
+liberty of robbing him of all his goods, and decamping in the
+night; he was, however, apprehended the next evening, in a state of
+intoxication, dancing with a dozen females, and taken back to his
+master, who re-sold him to a native of Ashantee. By this master he
+was taken considerable notice of, and sent, along with many others,
+to his own country (Ashantee); but no great while after his arrival
+thither he committed a second serious misdemeanour, for which
+offence he was driven to the sea-side, and sold to the master of a
+Portuguese schooner, then lying at Whydah. On her voyage to Bahia,
+the vessel was captured by an English sloop of war, and Pasko was
+liberated; but consented to remain with the British, and serve as
+an ordinary seaman. He was, however, taken from his employment by
+Mr.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_207">[207]</span> Belzoni, in
+order to accompany him in his attempt to reach Tombuctoo by way of
+Fez; but that enterprizing traveller dying of dysentery, Pasko
+returned to his duties in the British navy, where he remained till
+engaged by Captain Clapperton, in the joint capacity of servant to
+Captain Pearce, and general interpreter to the mission.</p>
+
+<p>Pasko was no more than five feet in height, with hands and arms
+disproportionately long: his face was open and expressive, if a
+mouth extending literally from ear to ear can impart an enviable
+cast of feature to the human countenance; and his cheek was
+furrowed with the tatto mark of the Houssa nation (eight deep
+scars, inflicted by a rude instrument during boyhood). His nose was
+excessively broad and flat, and his lips resembled, as nearly as
+possible, the famous German sausage ornamented; and these were,
+with large teeth, of pearly whiteness, which were generally exposed
+by a perpetual grin playing upon his countenance. But there was an
+undefinable expression of low cunning in his dark, wandering eye,
+and an habitual restlessness<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_208">[208]</span> in his manner which induced one to suspect
+that there was more of evil in him than he was willing should be
+detected, and which he strove to disguise under forced stupidity
+and carelessness which in reality did not belong to his
+disposition. It is somewhat odd that Pasko, plain as his appearance
+most undoubtedly was, should have entertained the strange notion
+that almost every female who saw him, of whatever hue, nation, or
+religion she might be, could not help falling in love with him at
+first sight, imagining that his intellectual physiognomy possessed
+some peculiar attraction—an oil of rhodium,—which fascinated all
+beholders. Hence, secure of the affections of the softer sex, his
+behaviour to them was not always graced by that studied civility,
+and agreeableness of manner, which are the characteristics of most
+gallants; what others were obliged to entreat and sigh for as a
+favour, Pasko demanded as a right, and enforced his pretensions
+with an eloquence so commanding, that according to his own
+asseverations at least, his advances were never repelled by
+coldness or disdain. At the period of his<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_209">[209]</span> engaging himself with the African mission,
+he might have been about sixty years of age, but looked
+considerably older; and the above unaccountable feeling of his had
+lost none of its intensity at so advanced a period of life. Like
+Aaron’s rod, it swallowed up every other passion; and as will be
+seen by the numerous wives with whom he was accommodated, and the
+scrapes he fell into by their means, Pasko subscribed, with all his
+heart, to the anathema of the Poet:</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0">“Curse on all laws save those which
+<em>Love</em> has made!”</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>At Badagry, one of the wives of Adólee, the king, fell
+desperately in love with the self-enamoured Pasko, and strove to
+awaken his sensibility by a present of a bottle of rum; but the
+latter being observed sneaking near the king’s house at
+unseasonable hours, was threatened with death if he attempted to
+display his alluring accomplishments before the illustrious female
+inmates, to the infinite uneasiness of his majesty’s mind. Pasko,
+with whom foolhardiness was in no very high esteem, went off in
+great dudgeon, and never repeated his visit<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_210">[210]</span> to the seraglio, confining himself
+within doors as much as possible. This seclusion, however, could
+not screen him from the resentment of the slighted lady, for as he
+was standing outside our house one day, a stone, flung with great
+force from her own <em>fair</em> hand, struck Pasko so violent a
+blow on the breast, that it completely ejected every spark of
+tenderness he might have entertained for her, and he vowed to
+embrace the earliest opportunity of being revenged. At Jannah he
+forgot his disappointment in the endearing expressions lavished
+upon his extraordinary beauty by a girl of that place, whom he
+married agreeably to the custom of the country, and took with him
+to Katunga, in Yariba. The attachment seemed to be reciprocal for
+some time; and Pasko was so bound up in the blandishments of his
+spouse, that he was loth to expose her delicate person to the
+dangers of a journey to Bornou, and proposed remaining in that
+city, instead of continuing in the service of the mission; his
+better half relishing the proposal extremely well, and seconding it
+with all the weight of her influence. Aspiring,<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_211">[211]</span> however, to the society of the
+wives of his majesty of Katunga, and those of his great men,
+Pasko’s rib fell into the temptation of tippling and carousing with
+them at all seasons, and indulged in this disgraceful propensity to
+so great an excess, that she rarely returned to the arms of her
+impatient husband in a sober state; and was, moreover, frequently
+seen in the company of younger men than he. All this at length
+reaching the ears of Captain Clapperton, she was dismissed his
+service, but retaken at the piteous lamentations and entreaties of
+Pasko, who declared, blubbering all the while, that he could not
+survive her loss, so strongly was she linked to him by the silken
+bands of love! The amiable lady, nevertheless, the morning before
+our departure from Katunga, rising from the couch of her
+unsuspecting companion, decamped with the coral beads and other
+trinkets he had received of Mrs. Belzoni whilst in England, and was
+never seen or heard of after. Pasko consoled himself with the
+reflection that the woman was certainly deranged, or she never
+could have treated a person of his consideration so
+unhandsomely!</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_212">[212]</span>At Wow Wow he
+buried all his griefs and vexations in the embraces of a fresh wife
+he had received of the generous Zuma; but it being unlawful to
+accept such a present without having first obtained the consent of
+the king, Mohammed compelled him to return the dear object of his
+affections, much against his own inclination, and the unfortunate
+lover determined not to marry again in a hurry. A young woman in
+Kano however overturned his resolution, and he left me in the
+manner which has already been related. Pasko never troubled his
+head much about religious matters, adopting the prevailing opinions
+about them in the various countries through which he might happen
+to pass: thus, he was a Christian in England, a Pagan in Yariba and
+Borghoo, and a Mohammedan in the Falatah empire; although the
+superstitious notions of his childhood clung like instinct to his
+manhood and declining years, evidently disposing him to lean
+towards Paganism, as the best and most convenient doctrine with
+which he was acquainted.</p>
+
+<p>My master unexpectedly returned to Kano<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_213">[213]</span> in September, accompanied by the Godado
+(prime minister of sultan Bello) and several Falatahs of less
+consequence, the road to Soccatoo having been found impassable by
+reason of the rain that had fallen. After remaining with me three
+or four days, Captain Clapperton left the city a second time, and
+entered the capital of Houssa in safety, on Thursday the 19th of
+October.</p>
+
+<p>On the night of the 1st of November Pasko eloped with his Kano
+wife, taking with him six pairs of scissors and a pistol. On
+missing him next morning, I made an inquiry after him in the city,
+but no one could give me the least account of the fugitive, till a
+person informed me of his having met him with a woman at an early
+hour on the road to Zeg Zeg. As soon as this information was
+communicated to me, I secured the baggage in an apartment of our
+house, and took the key to Hat Sallah, with a request that he would
+suffer no one to enter it till my return. Although I was by no
+means recovered from the painful illness which had for so long a
+time afflicted me, I immediately mounted my horse,<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_214">[214]</span> and desiring Abdalfitha, one
+of our Arab servants to accompany me on another, took the road to
+Quorra, a large town in Zeg Zeg, and travelled with unusual speed.
+A journey of four days brought us to Roma, on entering which town
+we were told that Pasko had just before quitted it; but our horses
+being almost knocked up, we could proceed no further on that day,
+by reason whereof we were obliged to remain there till the
+following morning.</p>
+
+<p>We had not been in the place, however, more than an hour, when
+some of the inhabitants came with the news that they had seen Pasko
+in a woman’s house near the market-place; and as soon as I had
+ascertained that this was actually the case, I hired a dozen stout
+men to watch at the gates, and apprehend him if he attempted to
+escape from the town. Meanwhile, being exhausted myself with the
+violent exercise I had been necessitated to take, I ordered
+Abdulfitha to proceed to the place of his concealment, and
+endeavour to secure the criminal, which he succeeded in doing
+without even the shadow of opposition on Pasko’s part,<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_215">[215]</span> and presently after brought
+him to me. The old fellow, with the most unconcerned air
+imaginable, wondered I had taken so much pains on his account,
+affirming that he had taken a jaunt into the country for a day or
+two, in order to amuse himself by shooting a few pigeons for my
+use, for he felt for me in my long indisposition! and that it was
+his intention to return to Kano as soon as he had accomplished his
+charitable purpose. His wife, not liking this species of enjoyment,
+had left him the preceding day, and had gone back to her mother’s
+house. Pasko, having made this ingenious defence, I gave him a
+severe lecture for having left Kano without my knowledge or
+consent; but as he showed symptoms of contrition, and promising
+solemnly to behave with more circumspection for the future, I
+cheerfully forgave him; and we retired to rest.</p>
+
+<p>On our return we halted at a small village about twelve miles
+from Kano, where we slept. In the night, Pasko, watching a
+favorable opportunity, stole unobserved out of the hut with all my
+money, which I had concealed, for its better<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_216">[216]</span> security, in my stocking, together with
+my guns, pistols, and in fact every thing belonging to me, with the
+exception of the horse. The manner in which the robbery was
+discovered was as follows:—About two o’clock in the morning, being
+thirsty, I called on Pasko several times to fetch me a little
+water, but receiving no answer, I arose, and approaching the mat on
+which he had lain down the preceding evening, caught hold of what I
+conceived to be his head, and shook it violently. Still receiving
+no answer, I became alarmed, and instantly striking a light, I
+found, not Pasko’s corpse stretched on the mat as I expected, but a
+slaughtered sheep! which had been sent me from the chief of the
+town, in its stead, and which the artful old scoundrel had placed
+in that position, enveloping the head of the animal in one of my
+woollen caps, for the purpose of deceiving me! as Abdulfitha had
+been in the habit of laying his hand on Pasko’s head at intervals
+during the night, in order to ascertain that all was right. The
+thief had stripped me almost naked; but wrapping a blanket round my
+person, I rode hastily with<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_217">[217]</span> Abdulfitha, by star-light, to Kano, and
+arrived there early in the morning. As soon as Hat Sallah had
+arisen, I simply told him how I had been served, when he
+immediately sent several individuals in quest of the robber, who
+returned with him two days after. This was enjoyment with a
+vengeance; so being determined he should take no more rural
+excursions, I ordered the prisoner to be heavily ironed, and
+confined in the common dungeon till the return of the governor of
+Kano from a town called Fanisoe: this took place two or three days
+only before my departure, and on the same day Pasko being examined
+by his excellency, and having taken an oath in his presence that he
+would not again desert me till the arrival of Captain Clapperton
+from Soccatoo, he was set at large in the city.</p>
+
+<p>I saw a slave in Kano whose fore teeth were cut and pointed, a
+custom I thought peculiar to the coast, and some of the islands in
+the South Seas. The man’s appearance was most ferocious; and so
+sullen and reserved was he, that he refused to answer any
+interrogations that were put to him, although I was inclined
+to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_218">[218]</span> believe that he
+had perpetrated some flagrant crime, as he was so far on his way to
+Badagry, whither he would not have been sent, if his character were
+not of the very worst description.</p>
+
+<p>One day, as I was walking to the governor’s house, I espied a
+white man at some distance; I ran after him as fast as my strength
+would permit me, and thought at first he was an apparition; but on
+approaching within a few yards, and the man suddenly stopping, I
+immediately perceived that he was a leper. His head, neck, and
+shoulders were bared, and the skin, covered with a thick scurf, had
+a ghastly and cadaverous appearance. When he turned to look at me,
+I could not forbear shuddering, and felt so peculiar a sensation
+creep through my frame, that I willingly laid hold of a date tree
+growing near the spot, in order to keep myself in an erect
+position. The wool, nose, and lips, were entirely negro, and when
+these were contrasted with his pale, diseased skin, the leper
+scarcely maintained the appearance of a human being. We had seen a
+woman in Katunga afflicted with a similar loathsome malady; but its
+effects in the latter instance<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_219">[219]</span> were not nearly so visibly disgusting. Both
+the unhappy individuals were vagrants, and shunned, like the lazars
+of Italy, by their fellow-creatures. Their life must, indeed, have
+been a burden to them; for the disease, preying upon their vitals,
+threatened to terminate their wretched career very speedily; and to
+add to their sorrows, they had no where to lay their heads.</p>
+
+<p>I had purchased a young ostrich of a Tuarick, who had brought it
+from the desert, shortly after our arrival at Kano, and the animal
+soon became so tame, that it would follow me like a dog. In two
+months after I had it in my possession it grew amazingly, and I was
+in hopes of bringing it to England with me; but an envious Arab in
+the city, whose inveterate dislike to every thing belonging to the
+Christians he took no pains to conceal, cut off its head, and
+artfully attributed it to accident. Meeting the fellow in the
+street a short time afterwards, I belaboured his sides so
+effectually with a stout stick which I held in my hand, that he ran
+off bellowing with a complaint to the governor,<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_220">[220]</span> who, after listening patiently
+to his story, observed, with a very significant look, that he was
+quite sure the drubbing he had received must have been inflicted
+<em>by accident</em>, and dismissed the malicious Arab without
+granting the redress he sought.</p>
+
+<p>A wealthy Nyffé man had in his possession, in Kano, two
+individuals, male and female, so excessively small, that although
+they were nearly thirty years of age, their height did not exceed
+forty inches. Each of them had been brought from a place called
+Goorma, and they had left their native country at a very early
+period of life; insomuch, that they had no recollection of their
+parents, or of any thing connected with the manners and customs of
+their countrymen. None but particular friends of the proprietor
+were allowed to see these human beings in miniature, and even they
+were introduced only at particular seasons. For my part, I often
+visited them, and their innocent playful manners greatly diverted
+me. They were extremely chatty and good-tempered, and their agility
+was as remarkable as their size was diminutive. I offered to
+purchase them; but<span class="pagenum" id="Page_221">[221]</span>
+not altogether admiring my white skin, they refused to quit the
+hospitable roof of their owner, who candidly acknowledged that he
+was so much attached to the dwarfs, that he had resolved never to
+force their inclinations to a measure they disliked in their
+hearts.</p>
+
+<p>When I was able, I used, during my stay at Kano, to collect
+plants, shrubs, insects, &amp;c. and stuff any birds that I might
+happen to shoot, if I fancied there was any thing peculiar or
+strange in their appearance. By this means I soon acquired a great
+variety of beautiful insects, which, with the birds and plants, I
+attempted to bring to England with me; but the portmanteau in which
+they were placed having been frequently wetted on my return to the
+coast, they were all so completely spoiled, that I was obliged to
+throw them away.</p>
+
+<p>On the 12th of November I had the happiness of receiving the
+following letter from my master, dated Soccatoo, Tuesday, October
+26, 1826:—</p>
+
+<div class="quote">
+<p class="nind pad3"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_222">[222]</span>“<span class="sc">Dear Richard</span>,</p>
+
+<p>“I arrived here on Thursday, after a most fatiguing and
+harassing journey. I find the city in much the same state as on my
+former visit. They say it has been burnt by the rebels of Goober,
+but I have observed no traces of a recent conflagration, and
+therefore suspect the rumour to be unfounded. Sultan Bello has been
+investing Coonia, the capital of Goober, with a large but irregular
+army. I visited him in his camp previously to my arrival here. He
+appeared glad to see me, and welcomed me to his country with the
+utmost cordiality. He is now at Magaria, anticipating an attack
+from the rebel chief, but is expected here shortly. The Arabs have
+already begun their underhand and deceitful practices, by tampering
+with Mohammed [an Arab servant], and insinuating the injury he
+would do his soul by serving an enemy to their faith. The man
+hardly knows how to act; on the one hand he dreads the resentment
+of his namesake the Prophet; and on the other, if he quits my
+service, he must necessarily throw himself upon the good-nature of
+his rascally<span class="pagenum" id="Page_223">[223]</span>
+countrymen, who indeed make golden promises, but whose filthy
+niggardliness is proverbial, even amongst the Falatahs. I shall
+certainly feel his loss severely, if Mohammed follows their advice,
+as I have no one in whom I can repose so much confidence as
+himself; but I have left it entirely to his own choice, either to
+go or stay. I have just had a conversation with a messenger,
+arrived within these few minutes from Bello and the Godado; he
+tells me the rebels are hourly expected near Magaria, and of his
+sovereign’s wish for me to make all haste to him, as he is utterly
+unconscious how long he may be detained with his army. For the
+purpose of assisting me on my journey, the Sultan has sent me two
+camels and a horse; and most likely I shall leave this city
+to-morrow or next day.</p>
+
+<p>“It is most violently hot here. I fancy the weather has already
+made some impression on my health, for I feel now and then a little
+feverish and unwell. I sincerely wish it may not increase upon me.
+Heaven knows I have had enough of sickness since I first set my
+foot on African soil; and it would be disheartening
+indeed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_224">[224]</span> if I should
+be laid up at this particular time. Let me hope your health is
+improved since I saw you. It would grieve me exceedingly to hear an
+unfavourable account of it; and I would suggest that you keep both
+mind and body as much employed as possible. By right you should
+have no idle moments. I hope you ride out every day, and amuse
+yourself with shooting and stuffing birds: this will tend to keep
+you in good health and spirits. Apply your mind strictly to the
+duties of religion; rely firmly on the mercy and assistance of
+Heaven; for in all your difficulties and distress, this alone will
+bear you up like a man, and render you superior to misfortune.</p>
+
+<p>“I pray God to bless you; and believe me to be</p>
+
+<p class="right pad-right5">“Your sincere friend and master,</p>
+
+<p class="right pad-right2">“<span class="sc">Hugh
+Clapperton</span>.”</p>
+
+<p class="nind">“<em>Rd. Lander, Kano.</em>”</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Towards the latter end of November, I received a second letter
+from Capt. Clapperton, dated Soccatoo, November 7th, 1826. The
+following is a copy of it:—</p>
+
+<div class="quote">
+<p class="nind pad2"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_225">[225]</span>“<span class="sc">Dear Richard</span>,</p>
+
+<p class="ind3">“I returned from Magaria yesterday: the Sultan
+received his present with rapture; nor did the godado appear much
+less pleased with his. I enjoy, thank God, tolerable health, with
+the exception of being afflicted at times with a sharp pain in my
+side, which annoys me greatly; but I hope it will soon wear off.
+The Sultan does not seem in the least willing for me to visit
+Bornou, by reason of the war; but I shall do all in my power to
+overturn his unjust prejudices. He fancies, no doubt, the present
+intended for the Sheikh consists of warlike stores; at least, I am
+pretty confident my kind friends the Arabs have intimated as much
+to him. Yet I am infinitely pleased to learn that Bello does not
+altogether relish their counsel, and that he judges pretty
+correctly of the falsehood and deceit they have so often practised
+to serve their own ends.</p>
+
+<p>“If the road to Bornou be denied me, I really can’t tell what we
+shall do, or how we shall get home. It is certain if we pursue a
+different route, my business will be incomplete, and of all things
+this lies nearest my heart. It is<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_226">[226]</span> not likely, however, I shall be kept in
+suspense a great while longer, and I shall know with certainty
+perhaps in a few days. I am already heartily tired of this place;
+and most devoutly wish I were with you. I long to turn my face
+towards our dear country again; yet whenever I think calmly of it,
+as oftentimes I do, a cloud seems to hang over the future which
+saddens me, I know not why, and makes me excessively low-spirited.
+I would cheerfully dissipate all gloomy reflections if I could; but
+they come over one at times when one is least capable of resisting
+their influence, and an unpleasant sensation steals insensibly upon
+the mind, and renders one careless of oneself, and regardless of
+the world.</p>
+
+<p>“My dear Richard, do <em>you</em> endeavour to keep up your
+spirits. You tell me you are ill; I imagine this proceeds more from
+brooding over your misfortunes than any other cause whatever: it is
+not well to do so; you should not suffer despondency and dejection
+to have the mastery over your judgment and resolution. Think of
+your friends in England, and fancy yourself in their little circle;
+never permit hope<span class="pagenum" id="Page_227">[227]</span>
+to sink so far within you, as to say to yourself, ‘I shall never
+see my country again.’ Such thoughts, I repeat, should never be
+indulged; for they are ever attended with mischief. Your disorder
+is, indeed, a peculiarly painful one; yet it is one which every
+European must expect to be visited with in this remote region. I
+have been afflicted with it myself before now, and you see I am
+completely recovered from its effects.</p>
+
+<p>“Let me entreat you, therefore, to hope for the best: it is
+unmanly to repine at any trifling casualty that may befal one,
+which we are all so very apt to do. Above all things, place your
+confidence in the wisdom of the Almighty; let your whole heart and
+affections rest upon him, for he alone is able to support you under
+the trying sickness that wastes you, and conduct you in safety to
+dear old England. Pray to Heaven night and morning, and read the
+church service as often as you can, particularly on the Sabbath;
+for a firm reliance on the goodness and mercy of the Divine Power,
+will inspire you with confidence, and bear you up with cheerfulness
+and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_228">[228]</span> courage, even
+when all earthly enjoyments fail you. For my own part, I am
+inclined to believe you will soon be well, and that we shall
+shortly see better and happier days. Most likely I shall leave this
+city for Kano the latter part of the week, and surely I need not
+repeat how happy I shall be to see you again.</p>
+
+<p class="right pad-right12">“Adieu, and believe me</p>
+
+<p class="right pad-right5">“Your sincere friend and master,</p>
+
+<p class="right pad-right2">“H. <span class=
+"sc">Clapperton</span>.”</p>
+
+<p class="nind">“<em>Richard Lander, Kano.</em>”</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The above letter had been delivered to me but two days, when I
+received a message from the governor of Kano to pay him a visit at
+his house. On entering the apartment in which he was seated, he
+abruptly informed me that he had just received a letter from my
+master, which contained a wish for me to come to him immediately
+with all the baggage. This piece of intelligence surprised me not a
+little, for I had been led to believe, from the tenor of his last
+letter, that, instead of my proceeding to Soccatoo, Captain
+Clapperton must by that time have been on the<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_229">[229]</span> road to Kano. I could not help fancying,
+however, that something of a melancholy nature had taken place,
+which, from motives of delicacy, had been prudently withheld from
+me, although I was at a loss to conjecture of what nature it could
+be; for it did not occur to me at the moment that Bello, who bore a
+high character for uprightness and integrity, could resort to so
+mean a stratagem, in order to inveigle an unprotected stranger into
+his power, without assigning any reason for such unwarrantable
+conduct.</p>
+
+<p>Two days after this interview (22d November) I received another
+invitation from the governor, on which occasion, after briefly
+alluding to the former conversation, he hinted that it was
+necessary for me to quit the city without delay, naming the 25th as
+the day most proper for my departure. He said he should make my
+master a present of five <em>pack</em> bullocks to convey the goods
+to Soccatoo, and order four men to take charge of the animals on
+the road.</p>
+
+<p>On the 24th I paid my respects to the governor, with whom I was
+closeted considerably more than an hour; and on rising to depart,
+he<span class="pagenum" id="Page_230">[230]</span> shook hands
+heartily with me, saying, with much warmth and feeling, “Good bye,
+‘little Christian,’ God take you safe to Soccatoo.” On going back
+to my house, I found Hat Salah rather impatiently waiting my
+return; he advised me to procure a strong camel by all means,
+affirming that the bullocks of themselves were inadequate for the
+purpose intended. I agreed with him in this particular, and
+purchased one which the Arab recommended for 62,000 cowries.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_231">[231]</span><a id=
+"c08"></a>CHAPTER VIII.</h2>
+
+<hr class="decor width5">
+
+<p class="csum">The Author quits Kano to join his master — His
+illness on the road — Anecdotes of the natives, and his reception
+by them — Pasko’s last robbery, and elopement — He is overtaken,
+and brought back — The Tuarick merchants — The Author’s arrival at
+Soccatoo, the metropolis of the Falatah empire — Residence there —
+Pasko’s dismissal, conduct, and marriage.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">On</span> the 25th of November I left the city
+of Kano, accompanied by <em>honest</em> Pasko, who had just been
+liberated from his confinement, Abdulfitha the Arab, and messengers
+from Bello and the governor of Kano. At one in the afternoon our
+party halted at Zungugwâ; but the camel, in endeavouring to enter
+by one of the narrow gates of the town, unfortunately broke two
+boxes, in which were contained stationery and other articles. This
+accident detained us outside the walls for more than an hour, when
+the men were obliged to take the goods on their<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_232">[232]</span> heads, and carry them to the
+residence of the chief, at a distance of half a mile from the spot.
+I waited on him myself shortly afterwards, and gave him a pair of
+scissors, fifty needles, and a small paper of cloves, all which
+pleased him highly. The chief then led me into one of his best
+huts, where he told me I might remain till I felt inclined to leave
+the place, and shortly afterwards sent me butter, sour milk, a
+couple of fine fowls, with tuah and corn.</p>
+
+<p>I awoke early in the morning of the 26th, and leaving the hut of
+the hospitable chief, after a ride of six hours, came to Markee, a
+large, though thinly inhabited village, the chief of which, a
+kind-hearted old man, upwards, I should think, of ninety years of
+age, and withal very feeble, was delighted to see me, and testified
+the pleasure he felt by repeatedly shaking hands with me for the
+space of half an hour; and would undoubtedly have pulled off my
+arm, if I had not expressed myself too greatly fatigued to stand so
+long a time in one place. After a short conversation, he conducted
+me into an inner apartment, and, bidding me to sit,<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_233">[233]</span> took from a calabash which was
+suspended from the ceiling a small box made of skin, round which
+had been wound, with the greatest care, upwards of five hundred
+yards of thread, which occupied him twenty minutes in taking off.
+This having been done, he showed me four bits of tin lying at the
+bottom of the box, about the size of swan and common shot. The old
+chief then gave me to understand, with much seriousness, as well as
+earnestness of manner, that the little balls I was looking at had
+been given to him by an Arab fifteen years before, who had
+positively affirmed that they were of silver, and possessed of
+life. The larger pieces, the old man continued, were of the
+masculine, and the smaller of the feminine gender; the latter of
+which would produce young at the end of every twelve years, and
+till the expiration of that period were by no means to be looked
+at!</p>
+
+<p>In order to impart warmth to the balls, he had enveloped them in
+a quantity of cotton wool, and the thread had been tied round the
+box, that the offspring might have no opportunity of escaping!
+“But,” said the hoary-headed chief,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_234">[234]</span> with a disappointed air, “though I kept
+them with the utmost care, agreeably to the instructions I had
+received, for twelve years, to my consternation and sorrow, at the
+end of that period, I found that they had made no increase, and I
+begin to think that they never will;” in saying which, the
+tender-hearted man was so grievously affected that he burst into
+tears. It was with the greatest difficulty that I could refrain
+from laughing aloud in his face; but succeeded at length in
+subduing the strong inclination I had to be merry, and I told him,
+with all the solemnity the occasion required, that the Arab was a
+rogue and had deceived him; that the articles he had so highly
+valued were bits of tin, and not of silver; that they were without
+life, and, therefore, could not infuse the living principle into
+other inanimate substances. I consoled the old gentleman, however,
+upon the hoax that had been so successfully played off upon him,
+and sympathized with him in his sorrow.</p>
+
+<p>His mind soon afterwards became more composed, although at times
+he could not help<span class="pagenum" id="Page_235">[235]</span>
+sobbing audibly; and after answering numerous questions put to me
+about my country, I complained of indisposition, and retired to
+rest.</p>
+
+<p>After spending a sleepless night, I arose unrefreshed at six in
+the morning, and pursuing our journey, passed close to a large
+Falatah town, called Kiowah, in the neighbourhood of which were
+numerous herds of horned cattle grazing. Here, as in other parts of
+Houssa, the cows are mostly white, and the sheep of the same
+colour, spotted with red and black, which occasioned the latter
+animals to have a very agreeable appearance at a distance, and
+recalled to my memory Jacob’s spotted sheep, mentioned in
+Scripture. In the afternoon we arrived at Guâri, a large walled
+town with an indifferent population. The beasts were unable to
+enter the gate with their loads, by reason of its narrowness, and
+being unwilling for the men to take them into the town on their
+heads, which would have occupied a considerable time—much longer,
+indeed, than my fatigue and illness would allow, I reposed for the
+night underneath the branches of a large tree. On being
+made<span class="pagenum" id="Page_236">[236]</span> acquainted
+with my arrival, the chief paid me a visit, and seating himself by
+my side, entered most familiarly into conversation with me, in the
+course of which he observed that tigers abounded in the
+neighbourhood, and unless I kept fires burning during the whole of
+the night, my attendants and cattle would in all probability be
+attacked and destroyed by those rapacious animals. He also informed
+me, that two years before, the Gooberites took and pillaged his
+town, putting to the sword nearly the whole of its inhabitants, and
+he himself narrowly escaped with life. This was, no doubt, the
+reason of the scantiness of the population, and the poverty of the
+chief and his remaining subjects. As soon as the chief had returned
+to the town, a new-married couple paid me a visit. To the bride, a
+very interesting girl of eighteen, I gave guinea-nuts, to the value
+of one hundred cowries, on accepting which she dropped on one knee,
+and thanked me in a modest but graceful manner; and in the evening,
+in return for the trifling present I had given her, she sent me
+some butter-milk, which was an acceptable gift at that time.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_237">[237]</span>At the usual
+hour, on the morning of the 28th, we again set out, and halted at a
+small wretched looking village, called Kookay, at twelve at noon.
+The inhabitants, who were as squalid in appearance as their village
+was contemptible, were miserably attired, and complained sadly,
+amongst other grievances, of the mischief done to their crops by
+repeated visits of wild pigs, which had completely destroyed the
+principal part of them.</p>
+
+<p>At noon of the next day we stopped at Duncammee, a moderately
+sized walled town, with an overflowing population. I was both
+surprised and pleased to observe the neatness of this town, and the
+tidiness of its inhabitants. Every inch of spare ground was planted
+with tobacco, and tastefully fenced round with the dried stalks of
+that plant. The inhabitants at the northern quarter of the town
+manufacture large quantities of cotton cloths, which are neat and
+durable. The wall, by which the town is surrounded, was in a
+decayed state, but the houses were in excellent condition. The
+chief welcomed me to his dwelling, and offered me<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_238">[238]</span> the best apartment in it; and
+to remunerate his generosity I gave him a clasp knife and a hundred
+needles.</p>
+
+<p>On the morning of the 30th we were again in motion, and halted
+at Gaza at noon. The chief, like his neighbours, was happy to see
+me, lodged me in his own house, and paid every attention to my
+wants.</p>
+
+<p>Next day we continued our journey at the usual hour, and halted
+at Royoó at one o’clock at noon. In that town I became suddenly
+worse, lost my sight in an extraordinary manner, and could not rise
+in bed from excessive weakness and pain. Fancying I should be able
+to proceed no further, and that my existence was drawing rapidly to
+a close, I called Pasko to my bed-side, and implored him, after he
+had buried me, to take particular care of the property he would be
+left in charge of, and travel with the utmost expedition to
+Soccatoo, where he would be rewarded, according to his deserts, by
+Captain Clapperton; for thief and villain as he had proved himself
+to be, he had some good points, and I thought that the oath he had
+taken before<span class="pagenum" id="Page_239">[239]</span> the
+Governor of Kano would have bound him to honesty.</p>
+
+<p>On the 1st of December I remained dreadfully ill, expecting
+every moment to draw my last breath; but at two o’clock on the
+afternoon of the next day I rallied a little, and although unable
+to sit up, determined to see my dear master, if possible, before I
+died. With this object in view, I ordered my people to prepare a
+couch for me on the back of the camel, after which they lifted me
+gently into it, and I almost immediately desired them to
+proceed.</p>
+
+<p>The Chief of Royoó, who was one of Bello’s principal fighting
+men, behaved particularly kindly to me, and I really believe
+sincerely sympathized in my distress. He expressed his regret and
+sorrow at parting with me in so languid a state, and intimated,
+that it would be dangerous to go on, although he did not oppose my
+resolution, when he saw it would be useless to do so. The path, the
+greater part of the way, being very narrow, and thickly lined on
+each side with a species of prickly thorn, I was annoyed greatly,
+in consequence of their<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_240">[240]</span> sharp points frequently tearing the
+covering from my bed, and exposing my body to the intense heat of a
+burning sun. The Kano messenger, however, ascertaining the cause of
+my uneasiness, and compassionating my misery, rode before the
+camel, and with the greatest dexterity lopped off the overhanging
+branches that were likely to impede the animal’s progress, which
+rendered the remaining part of the journey infinitely more
+tolerable. The violent shaking of the camel caused a faintness to
+come over me several times on the road, on which occasions my party
+uniformly halted until I revived; and in this manner we travelled
+till seven in the evening, when we entered the walled town of
+Koólefée.</p>
+
+<p>The chief, a remarkably fine old man, never having seen a white
+man, was in transports the moment he learnt I was in the town; and
+running to the camel, he took me from off its back, and carried me
+into an apartment which had been hastily prepared for my reception.
+Placing me on a mat, he took a goora nut from his pocket, and
+holding it betwixt his finger and thumb,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_241">[241]</span> intreated me to chew one end of it, in
+order that he might have the honor of eating with a white man, and
+a Christian; this I succeeded in doing after some difficulty, when
+he immediately ate the remainder with much apparent satisfaction.
+His great men, who surrounded me, reproved the chief sharply for
+doing this; but quickly answering them in a pleasant and firm tone,
+he said that he believed the “Little Christian” was as good a man
+as himself, or any of them; which effectually silenced their
+remarks. The chief shortly afterwards went out, and returning in a
+few minutes with a bowl containing six quarts of new milk,
+sweetened with honey, told me that he was determined to see me
+swallow the whole of it before he left the apartment. Contrary to
+his wishes, however, I partook sparingly of the contents of the
+bowl at first, but during the night took large and repeated
+draughts, which refreshed and invigorated me.</p>
+
+<p>On arising the following morning, I found myself so much better,
+that I travelled on horseback, although not without much
+difficulty, to Zunko, a miserable village in which we slept.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_242">[242]</span>At sunrise on
+the 4th, we resumed our journey, and after a fatiguing ride of
+seven hours, arrived at Roma, a town insignificant as to size, but
+which being built on an eminence, commands a delightful prospect of
+the country for miles round. As soon as I entered the house of the
+chief, in which I slept, he made me the accustomed presents of
+provisions, &amp;c. for which he accepted in return a pair of
+scissars, a hundred needles, and a paper of cloves. Several Falatah
+girls of a bright copper colour; came to me in the evening, who
+were exceedingly beautiful, having delicate and graceful forms;
+and, with a curiosity so natural to their sex, were all eager to
+catch a glimpse of the “Little Christian,” they having before seen
+the “<em>Great</em> Christian,” as my master was called. In the
+course of the afternoon some of these damsels brought me milk and
+butter, for which I requited them with a few glass beads. In the
+night, I was rejoiced to find that my disorder, from the effects of
+which I had suffered so greatly, left me entirely: and from that
+hour my health rapidly and wonderfully improved.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_243">[243]</span>We bade adieu to
+the chief of Roma early in the morning of the fifth, and arrived at
+a contemptible village, called Bogell, in the course of the
+afternoon. Having slept there, we pursued our journey on the
+following day, and on entering Zulamee, the chief capered for joy
+on welcoming me to his town, and ordered four men to guard the
+beasts and property. A band of robbers having infested the
+neighbourhood for some time, had committed serious depredations on
+the inhabitants; and the chief, fancying that if the goods were
+left unprotected, they would be stolen, desired me to discharge a
+gun morning and evening, that the brigands might not think I was
+unprepared to receive them. They did not, however, think proper to
+molest me; but the King of Kashna was not quite so fortunate, for
+on the preceding day a fine horse was stolen from him, which he
+never afterwards recovered. I remained at Zulamee two days, in
+order to recruit the spirits of the party, and refresh the animals
+under their charge.</p>
+
+<p>We quitted the town on the morning of the<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_244">[244]</span> ninth, and sleeping at Gundumowah, a
+small but neat Falatah village, arrived at Sansanee on the
+following day. The country traversed was thickly wooded, and the
+path lay for three hours through a large bush, which having
+recently been visited by a horde of elephants, the impressions of
+whose feet were very perceptible, travelling was rendered extremely
+unpleasant, and even dangerous. On our arrival the chief of the
+town ordered an open shed, occupied by a number of calves, to be
+cleaned out for our reception. In the evening, placing the baggage
+in the centre, I desired the men to lie around it, whilst I reposed
+near the most valuable articles. Not deeming the property
+sufficiently secure in so exposed a place, my sleep was rather
+disturbed; and arising about ten or eleven o’clock in the night, I
+found that my camel had strayed from outside the shed. Being
+unwilling to arouse my drowsy companions, I went myself in quest of
+him; and on returning a short time afterwards, discovered, to my
+infinite surprise and alarm, that Pasko had decamped with a
+valuable gun, two pistols,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_245">[245]</span> a cutlass, six sovereigns, nineteen
+dollars, twenty large and small knives, and various other articles,
+which he had contrived to extract from the boxes in which they had
+been secured. To deceive me, the artful old scoundrel had put a
+pillow into a sack, over which he threw an old tobe, and laid it
+along his own mat. On the discovery I instantly made an alarm, and
+sent to the chief for a dozen armed horsemen to go in pursuit of
+the robber.</p>
+
+<p>As I was standing in the shed in the afternoon of the next day,
+I perceived a party of horsemen coming towards me at full gallop.
+On approaching within a few yards they suddenly checked their
+steeds, and brandishing their spears over their heads, exclaimed in
+a loud voice, “Nasarah, Nasarah, acqui de moogoo!” (Christian,
+Christian, we have the rogue!) The men informed me that a little
+before daybreak in the morning, hearing the report of a gun, they
+rode towards the spot whence the sound seemed to proceed, and saw
+Pasko perched on the top of a high tree, the stolen articles lying
+at the root of it. On their<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_246">[246]</span> threatening to shoot him with poisoned
+arrows unless he immediately came down, the old fellow hastily
+obeyed the summons, and delivered himself into their hands without
+uttering a syllable. One of the horsemen took the trembling
+scoundrel behind him, and the whole party instantly clapped spurs
+to their horses, and rode swiftly towards the village. I asked
+Pasko what had possessed him to abscond in so disgraceful a manner
+after all the protestations he had made to serve me with fidelity.
+He replied, that as his countrymen, the Gooberites, were at war
+with the Falatahs, he was afraid the latter would cut off his head
+the moment he was recognized in Soccatoo, and therefore he had
+adopted the wiser plan of securing his person from danger by
+running away. Whilst he was speaking the chief of the village,
+running up to us, cried out, “A blessing, a blessing! you have
+caught the thief, let me take off his head!” Not wishing to gratify
+the <em>good-natured</em> Falatah in this his merciful request, I
+took the punishment of Pasko into my own hands; and it being
+his<span class="pagenum" id="Page_247">[247]</span> third or fourth
+offence, I ordered him to be heavily ironed, and pinioned in the
+town dungeon. This sentence was rigidly enforced, and on the
+following day, the criminal having expressed a wish to speak to me,
+I sent for him. He came into my hut, and holding up his naked arms,
+which were swollen to thrice their natural size, begged so
+piteously to be liberated from his confinement, or at least to have
+his punishment mitigated in some degree, that I desired he might
+not be pinioned again, as that operation seemed to have given him
+most pain; but his irons were not taken off till our departure from
+the place.</p>
+
+<p>On the 13th, five hundred camels, laden with salt, obtained from
+the borders of the Desert, entered Sansanee, preceded by their
+owners, a party of twenty Tuarick merchants, whose appearance was
+singularly novel and imposing. The men were all attired in the same
+fashion, and mounted on handsome pied camels, which trotted into
+the town with uncommon speed. Their dress consisted of black cotton
+tobes, and full trousers of the same colour;<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_248">[248]</span> white caps encircled with black turbans,
+which concealed every part of the face but the nose and eyes; and
+red morocco boots. In the right hand they held a long and
+highly-polished spear, whilst the left was occupied in grasping
+their shields (the only defensive armour with which the Tuaricks
+are acquainted), and retaining the reins of the camels. The shields
+were covered with white leather, and ornamented with a small plate
+of silver in the centre. As they passed me they shook their lances,
+which glittered in the sun-beams, and their appearance was
+certainly warlike and formidable in the extreme. Stopping suddenly
+in front of the chief’s house, they all exclaimed, as if with one
+voice, “Tchow!” at the sound whereof the camels fell simultaneously
+on their knees, and the riders dismounted to pay their respects.
+They came in a body to see me shortly afterwards, and
+notwithstanding their apparent respectability, evinced not the
+slightest unwillingness to beg money of me, which they did in a
+most importunate manner. One of the merchants, yet more incessant
+in his solicitations than his companions,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_249">[249]</span> amongst other shining qualities he affirmed
+he was in possession of, stated with the utmost seriousness, that
+he was “God’s own slave,” and on that account he was not to be
+overlooked. I said that the Almighty loved his servants, and made
+them prosperous and happy, and therefore he stood in no need of my
+assistance. The fellow, however, would not be repulsed, but
+continued hanging on me, and in fact almost tore the clothes from
+my back, till out of all patience, I took the importunate slave by
+the shoulders, and thrust him out of the shed into the street. As
+he went off, no doubt greatly humiliated in his own estimation, he
+muttered some reproaches which I could not comprehend, and said
+that I was the first person he had ever applied to in vain for
+money. Like thousands of others, these merchants were very
+inquisitive, and amongst other questions, wished to know whether
+many of my countrymen had not tails like monkeys! I assured them
+that no human being had that elegant appendage; but instead of
+believing my assertion, they shook their heads, looked wise, and
+said,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_250">[250]</span> “You do not
+speak the truth, white man, we know better than you on saying
+which, they surveyed me with more attention than before, and one
+amongst them walked round me several times, cautiously raising the
+end of my tobe, to ascertain with certainty whether I had any thing
+in the shape of a tail! On observing the man’s motions, I took off
+my tobe, which convinced his countrymen that <em>I</em> at least
+was without a tail, when they appeared better satisfied; and left
+my shed in the course of an hour to look after their wives and
+children, who were with the camels on the road, and had not then
+arrived.</p>
+
+<p>Provisions being rather scarce, I went a-shooting on the 14th,
+to procure a few pigeons for dinner. The Tuarick men, women, and
+children, on hearing the report of my gun, surrounded me in great
+numbers, and were infinitely amazed to see the birds falling dead
+at my feet from the tops of the tall trees. After examining them
+with the greatest attention, they declared that I was a beautiful
+man, too good a one for a Kaffir, and that I ought to be a
+worshipper of the true faith.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_251">[251]</span>In the afternoon
+of the 16th, fifty armed horsemen, sent by Bello, arrived at
+Sansanee, to accompany me to Soccatoo, his capital, in which he was
+waiting my arrival with impatience, and urged me to prepare to
+accompany them. The soldiers had brought my master’s two camels to
+assist in conveying the goods, which animals, as I subsequently
+learnt, the Godado had borrowed under false pretences. A messenger
+belonging to the Governor of Kano, who had accompanied the escort
+so far on his way to that city, came to me in the evening,
+unobserved by the Falatahs, and gave me a letter from Captain
+Clapperton, of which the following is a transcript:</p>
+
+<div class="quote">
+<p class="right">“<em>Soccatoo, Wednesday, Dec.</em> 13, 1826.</p>
+
+<p class="nind pad3">“<span class="sc">Dear Richard</span>,</p>
+
+<p>“I hope you do well; I am still here, contrary to my
+expectations, and Heaven knows when I shall be permitted to leave.
+This cursed Bornou war has overturned all my plans and intentions,
+and set the minds of the people generally against me, as it is
+pretty well understood<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_252">[252]</span> by both rich and poor, that I have presents
+for their enemy the Sheikh. I wish, with all my heart, it was
+ended; no matter whether the Falatahs or Bornouese be victorious,
+so I could conveniently pursue my journey. The Sultan has told me
+that I may return by way of Bornou, if I insist upon it, but raises
+so many obstacles, that it amounts to a prohibition. He is
+evidently unwilling for me to have any dealings with his
+adversaries. I do not know how this matter will end; I must
+acknowledge I do not like the appearance of things just now; God
+grant my fears may be groundless. Since my last I have been
+seriously ill with an enlargement of the spleen,<a id=
+"FNanchor_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> but
+am now much relieved from the pain attendant upon this complaint;
+and the swelling is also greatly reduced. I amuse myself as often
+as opportunities occur, which are seldom enough, and frequently
+take a ramble through the town, or a ride into the country. I
+generally feel stronger after the exercise, and would recommend you
+to adopt a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_253">[253]</span> similar
+practice, for, believe me, you would soon experience the benefit of
+it. Three or four fires have happened here lately, which have done
+much mischief; but nothing of mine, I am happy to say, has been
+injured by them, although a house almost adjoining ours has been
+burnt to the ground. People say the rebels of Goober are the
+authors of them, but I put no confidence in these rumours, as they
+are without the slightest proof. I believe I have nothing more, in
+the shape of news, to acquaint you with, and my only reason for
+writing you at all is, to let you know how I get on, that you may
+not be uneasy on my account. Adieu, Richard, and rest assured I
+have your interest and welfare at heart.</p>
+
+<p class="right pad-right3">“Your sincere friend and master,</p>
+
+<p class="right pad-right2">“<span class="sc">Hugh
+Clapperton</span>.”</p>
+
+<p class="nind">“<em>Richard Lander, Kano.</em>”</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>I was astonished, on perusing this letter, to find that my
+master knew nothing of the circumstance of my having left Kano,
+still less of my being so near him; and it struck me forcibly
+at<span class="pagenum" id="Page_254">[254]</span> the time that
+Bello wished to get me into his power, only to become the sole
+possessor of the presents intended for the Sheikh of Bornou, by
+laying violent hands both on Captain Clapperton and myself. With
+this belief I arose next morning, and asked the Godado’s brother,
+who commanded the escort, if it was not the Sultan’s intention to
+take away our lives on my entering Soccatoo, as my master knew
+nothing of what had transpired; but the Falatah answered,—“Fear
+nothing, our King will not injure either of you; his sole reason
+for sending for you is, that as he has seen but one Christian, he
+feels the greatest desire to become acquainted with a second.”
+“Remember the men of Boussa!” I simply retorted, when he left me in
+extreme haste and great uneasiness.</p>
+
+<p>The Godado’s brother was as importunate as the Tuarick merchants
+in begging money of me to purchase goora nuts, for the two first
+days after the arrival of the escort, and became so troublesome
+that I at length told him I had no property of my own, but that all
+he saw belonged to my master, without whose consent I<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_255">[255]</span> was determined not to spare a
+single cowry. The Falatah was not at all pleased at the answer; but
+on telling him that on my arrival in Soccatoo he should be
+handsomely rewarded, he ceased to plague me.</p>
+
+<p>Every thing being in readiness, on the 19th, I liberated old
+Pasko, who seemed dispirited, and truly sorry for the offence he
+had been guilty of, and at two in the afternoon I quitted the town
+with the escort, but was obliged to leave a bullock behind, the
+animal being lamed, and unable to walk a hundred steps without
+stumbling. Having travelled at a rapid rate through the dreaded
+“Goober Bush,” we arrived, much fatigued, at Magaria, about eleven
+o’clock the next night. The poor horses and camels having suffered
+dreadfully during the journey from thirst and over-exertion, we
+were obliged to remain in the town two days, in order that they
+might enjoy a little rest. During our stay I resided in a house
+belonging to the Godado, whose brother supplied me with abundance
+of excellent provisions. I was requested by some of the principal
+inhabitants to kill a few birds<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_256">[256]</span> with my gun, that several strangers then in
+the town might have an opportunity of seeing in what manner they
+were procured in my country. I soon gratified their curiosity, by
+shooting a small bird at the distance of fifty yards; on which they
+betrayed the utmost surprise, nor would they believe for a long
+time that it was really dead, but kept turning it round, and
+feeling whether it had actually received a wound.</p>
+
+<p>On the 23rd we quitted the town of Magaria, and, to my great
+joy, entered Soccatoo about two o’clock in the afternoon of the
+same day, after a disagreeable and wearisome journey (from Kano) of
+nearly a month. Not having seen my master for the period of a
+quarter of a year, I made the greatest haste to his house; but not
+finding him at home, I was conducted to the Godado’s, with whose
+owner I found him in earnest conversation. Although certainly
+surprised, he was glad to see me, and we walked home together.</p>
+
+<p>The day after my arrival (24th December), Sultan Bello sent a
+messenger to request my master and myself to repair without delay
+to his<span class="pagenum" id="Page_257">[257]</span> residence.
+As soon as we were admitted into his presence, he abruptly began
+the conversation by inquiring the nature of the presents I had with
+me, and was extremely solicitous to know if I had left any of them
+behind in Kano, for the Sheikh of Bornou. I replied that I had not.
+“Are you sure of that?” rejoined the Sultan. I answered with
+firmness a second time in the negative. Bello then demanded the
+King of England’s letters to the Sheikh, which my master, after a
+short pause, reluctantly produced; but vehemently opposed the
+Sultan’s wishes for him to open and read them, observing, that as
+soon as his sovereign should discover, on his return to England,
+that he had so unfaithfully broken his trust, he would instantly be
+beheaded. The Falatah prince then took the letters into his own
+hands, and on his graciously waving his hand in token that he
+wished to have nothing more to say, we bowed, and left the
+apartment.</p>
+
+<p>We had not returned to our hut a great while, when the Godado,
+his brother, Hat Sallah, (who had received secret instructions to
+overtake me on the road,) with several of the<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_258">[258]</span> principal inhabitants of Soccatoo,
+entered, and demanded, in the name of the Sultan, the presents
+intended for the Sheikh of Bornou, together with all the arms and
+ammunition which we should not want ourselves. My master became
+violently agitated when their errand was communicated, and rising
+from the mat on which he had been reposing, exclaimed with energy
+and bitterness:—</p>
+
+<p>“There is no faith in any of you; you are an unjust people; you
+are worse than highway robbers!”</p>
+
+<p>The Falatahs cautioned him to be more moderate in his
+expressions, or it might cost him his head.</p>
+
+<p>“If I lose my head,” retorted the Captain, in the same
+determined tone and manner, “it will be for no other crime than
+that of speaking for the just rights of my king and country; I
+repeat, you are a nation of scoundrels and robbers.”</p>
+
+<p>Hat Sallah entreated him (in Arabic) to express himself with
+less emphasis, and in milder language before the people, who would
+carry every word he had uttered to their sovereign.<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_259">[259]</span> I also joined in the same
+request, and begged him, as the attempt at resistance, for people
+so circumstanced as we were, would be the height of imprudence, to
+accede to the commands of the sultan, how tyrannical soever they
+might be. At length, after much persuasion, Capt. Clapperton
+consented that the presents in question should be produced; but
+desired the godado, on his leaving the apartment, to inform his
+king that he never wished to see him again; and that his business
+with him, after such perfidious conduct, was at an end.</p>
+
+<p>A short time after they had quitted our house, Mallam Mudey
+returned with a message from Bello, stating it to be the intention
+of that monarch to write to his <em>friend</em> the King of
+England, in explanation of his behaviour; but my master assured the
+holy man that <em>his</em> sovereign would not even look at the
+superscription of a letter from Bello, after being made acquainted
+with the dastardly action by which he had so disgraced himself.</p>
+
+<p>Soccatoo has been considerably enlarged by the present sultan,
+and is indisputably the most<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_260">[260]</span> important city in the interior of Africa.
+The wall that surrounds the capital of the Falatah empire, does not
+indeed encompass so large a portion of ground as that of Kano, but
+its population is treble the amount; and allowing the latter city
+to contain forty thousand souls, the aggregate number of
+inhabitants in Soccatoo will be one hundred and twenty thousand;
+which computation I do not conceive to be over-rated.</p>
+
+<p>Kano is distant from Soccatoo twenty regular days journey, or
+about two hundred and fifty English miles. The metropolis is built
+in a pleasant situation, on the summit of a gently elevated spot of
+land, and has a river flowing near the northern end, which enters
+the Quorra four days journey from Cubbé. The wall is high, and
+provided with eleven gates; but has an extremely heavy appearance.
+Architecture, as a science, is not cultivated in the interior; and
+the termites can rear as elegant a mansion as the natives, and in a
+far more ingenious manner. The habitations in Soccatoo are
+constructed like those of Kano, with clay, and have a dull, gloomy
+appearance.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_261">[261]</span>An old Haussan
+with two asses arrived in the city one day from Egypt. Having
+stopped in the different towns through which he had to pass, for
+the purpose of trafficking with their inhabitants, he had
+accomplished the long and dangerous journey in little more than a
+twelvemonth. He informed me that he had undergone great privations
+on the road, and had well nigh perished of thirst on more than one
+occasion. He had had no human companion to cheer him; and his
+affection for the brute associates of his lonely pilgrimage was
+singularly great. They had fared in common with himself; they had
+eaten and slept together; and, said the old man, as he drove away
+the patient-looking animals, “I would as soon lose my life as be
+deprived of them.” The Haussan observed that it was his intention
+to proceed to Tombuctoo the following week, and that on his return
+he should pay me a visit, but I never saw or heard any thing of him
+afterwards.</p>
+
+<p>The people of Soccatoo cry their provisions round the city; and
+milk, fish, &amp;c. are daily hawked through the streets by the
+lower orders,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_262">[262]</span> whose
+voices are as loud and shrill as those heard in London. The cry of
+“<em>Nono de mi!</em>” (milk and butter) always put me in mind of
+bells belonging to village churches; there was something peculiarly
+plaintive in the rising and falling of the voice of the young
+female who used to vend those articles morning and evening in the
+immediate neighbourhood of our dwelling; and, in my opinion, it
+strikingly resembled them in sound. “Namah du tonkah,” mutton
+(literally “flesh of the sheep”); “Namah de la comma” (camel’s
+meat); “Namah du acquia” (beef); “Gorassa” (little cakes made of
+pounded wheat); are also cried every morning; as is likewise
+“dowah,” and every other variety of grain produced in Haussa.</p>
+
+<p>Wheat was first imported into Haussa by the Arabs about a
+century ago; and even now they have the exclusive cultivation of
+it. Bread is only to be met with in two cities, Soccatoo and Zaria,
+and is manufactured by the female slaves of the Arabs, who sell it
+publicly by retail for their masters. For a very good reason I
+never<span class="pagenum" id="Page_263">[263]</span> tasted any of
+it whilst in Africa, and therefore can say nothing as to its good
+or bad quality.</p>
+
+<p>Pasko, whom my master had dismissed his service the moment he
+was made acquainted with his two-fold villainy, without paying the
+wages that were due to him, applied to a native lawyer in Soccatoo
+for advice; but the learned Falatah having patiently listened to
+the details of his case, discarded him, with the assurance, that if
+he had been Abdullah (Captain Clapperton’s travelling name),
+instead of rewarding him, he would have cut off his head!</p>
+
+<p>Under this consolation the old man, having a small sum of money
+in his possession, turned snuff-merchant, but being cheated by
+every body, became insolvent in the course of a very short time,
+and, in order to procure a slender maintenance, was ultimately
+obliged to cut wood from a neighbouring forest. In the height of
+his prosperity as a tradesman, Pasko, forgetting all his former
+vows and misfortunes and contrary to his usual custom, formally
+paid his addresses to a black slave, named Mattah Gewow (literally
+Miss, or woman-elephant), in<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_264">[264]</span> the household of Ben Gumso, an Arab. This
+woman, a native of Yariba, which country is notorious for ugly
+females, had a countenance inexpressibly hideous, but was well
+known by all ranks in Soccatoo, as the most experienced maker of
+<em>tuah</em><a id="FNanchor_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6" class=
+"fnanchor">[6]</a> which that or any other city could produce. In
+addition to the other attractions of this lady, a huge white tooth
+hung from her upper jaw, affectionately embracing the nether lip;
+and her chin was bristled most divinely with a slender but
+conspicuous and stubborn beard,—she being the only individual of
+her sex I had seen in the country possessing so masculine an
+ornament. Mattah Gewow was in the decline of life, having seen
+between fifty and sixty dry seasons pass over her head, and had, in
+her earlier years, been allured from the paths of innocence and
+virtue by a blind fiddler in the pay of the late and present
+sultan, who had refused to make her reparation by marriage. From
+that period to the time of our visiting Soccatoo, no sable swain
+had been emboldened<span class="pagenum" id="Page_265">[265]</span>
+to pay her any marked attentions; and the injured woman was
+inconsolable under the thoughts of living for ever in “single
+blessedness,” when the affectionate Pasko, having casually partaken
+of her far-famed tuah, pronounced it to be the best he had ever
+tasted, and immediately offered his heart and person, which, after
+a few <em>invisible</em> blushes on the lady’s part, were modestly
+accepted. The betrothed, as soon as they perfectly understood each
+other, spent all their leisure moments in their own delightful
+society, Pasko extolling the charms of the peerless Miss Elephant
+to the skies, and Miss Elephant returning the compliment by
+perpetually discovering fresh subjects for admiration and love in
+the person and physiognomy of the incomparable snuff-merchant. Thus
+the first few evenings of their courtship were passed, at which
+time I was a constant visiter at Ben Gumso’s, and often overheard
+their tender discourse. I broke in upon the lovers one day rather
+unexpectedly, in the midst of their dalliance, when Pasko was
+pouring out an eloquent<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_266">[266]</span> and passionate eulogium on the graces of
+his Mattah, who, on observing me,</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0">“<em>Blush’d</em> at the praise of her
+own loveliness!”</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="nind">and, with her adorer, looked exceedingly foolish.
+Being unwilling to disturb the harmony that had prevailed before my
+intrusion, I left the happy couple to enjoy themselves as they
+thought proper, and quitted the house.</p>
+
+<p>A day having been fixed upon for the marriage ceremony, the
+suitor determined to spend it jovially; and his own finances being
+at a very low ebb, he borrowed four thousand cowries of Ben Gumso,
+in order that nothing might be wanting to stamp dignity and
+consequence on the celebration of the festival. Pasko had just
+before embraced Islamism, and rigidly observed the outward rules of
+that belief; besides which he was well skilled in all the learning
+and knowledge of the Falatahs; so that the Arab did not hesitate to
+advance him the money he sought, on the faith of his bare promise
+of re-payment. The evening preceding the ceremony, Pasko sent a
+present of snuff, an old shirt, &amp;c. to Mattah,<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_267">[267]</span> which was acknowleged by a
+bowl of rich tuah; and the compact was thus formally ratified. On
+the following morning the “fatha” was read, and Pasko and the
+<em>lovely</em> Mattah became man and wife. Agreeably to promise,
+the happy bridegroom spent the day merrily with a friend or two he
+had invited; but so far forgot himself, his newly-adopted religion,
+and the respect he owed his bride, that towards evening he became
+intoxicated; indeed so much so that he was bereaved of his reason;
+and Mattah, who was only <em>tipsy</em>, perceiving her husband in
+this pickle, was very wrath, and pouring a whole bowl of hot
+half-boiled tuah over his head, face, and breast, gave him a sound
+drubbing with an empty calabash, and turned the unfortunate
+snuff-merchant out into the street half dead, where he remained in
+a state of insensibility till the next morning. On awaking, and
+finding himself bespattered from head to foot with tuah, Pasko had
+a confused recollection of the preceding evening’s debauch, and its
+disastrous consequences; but instead of disturbing the<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_268">[268]</span> slumbers of his amiable wife,
+he strolled listlessly towards our hut, sorely distressed in mind
+and body, where I met him an hour or so afterwards, the end of his
+tobe being completely saturated with his tears, which were yet
+flowing, and his whole appearance looking uncommonly grotesque.
+After making me acquainted with the melancholy tale of his mishap,
+he begged me to use my influence in order to compromise matters
+betwixt his gentle consort and himself, and assured me that if I
+succeeded, when occasion needed, he would cheerfully lay down his
+life for me.</p>
+
+<p>Wishing to be better acquainted with a woman, whose excessive
+ugliness and skilful tuah-making were the table talk of the whole
+kingdom of Houssa, I willingly embraced the proposition, and making
+a visit to Ben Gumso’s, had the good fortune to reconcile the angry
+lady to her sorrowing lord, after which they lived very happily
+together, till Pasko’s bankruptcy broke in upon their domestic
+felicity, and drove the ill-fated man into the woods. To the credit
+of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_269">[269]</span> Mattah, however,
+be it spoken, she did not abandon her husband in his mournful
+reverse of fortune; but, with an attachment worthy of her sex,
+supplied him, as far as she was able, with food and raiment; and
+their parting interview, on Pasko’s leaving Soccatoo with me, was
+beyond description natural, tender, and pathetic.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_270">[270]</span><a id=
+"c09"></a>CHAPTER IX.</h2>
+
+<hr class="decor width5">
+
+<p class="csum">Religion — Laws — Government — Amusements, &amp;c.
+of the Natives from Badagry to Soccatoo — Slavery in the interior
+countries — Timidity of the people — State of the arts amongst them
+— Dry and wet seasons.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">The</span> religion of the natives from Badagry
+to Soccatoo is either Mohammedism or Paganism; or, as it frequently
+appeared to us, a mixture of both, so nicely blended, as to make it
+impossible to ascertain with accuracy which belief had the
+ascendancy. Idols, or figures of birds, beasts, and reptiles, are
+worshipped in Badagry, Jannah, and Yaribas exclusively, while in
+the kingdoms of Borghoo, Nyffé, and Houssa, Islamism prevails in a
+greater or less degree.</p>
+
+<p>The professors of the former faith have a vague and indistinct
+notion of one great Being reigning above the skies, who is
+infinitely superior to every other in the nature of his
+attributes,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_271">[271]</span> and the
+extent of his power and influence. To this unknown God they pay
+divine adoration, through the medium of insignificant and inanimate
+objects, by the offering up of sacrifices to the latter, under the
+belief that the Great Spirit exists at so immeasurable a distance
+from them, and his time is so much employed in other and more
+important matters, that he cannot listen to the prayers of every
+individual. In consequence of this he appoints innumerable
+subordinate agents and machines, who aid and assist him, and
+minister to the affairs of mankind. They believe also in the
+existence of a powerful malevolent Spirit, who endeavours to
+counteract the good deeds of the Most High by every means, and is
+the author of all the mischief that annoys them. The people stand
+in the greatest dread of the power and machinations of this
+terrible demon, and strive to avert his wrath, and conciliate his
+favour, by oblations of dogs, sheep, and, in many cases, of human
+beings. Fetish-huts are the temples of their worship, which are
+regarded with superstitious awe by rich and poor; and are each
+furnished with one<span class="pagenum" id="Page_272">[272]</span>
+or more priests, who alone are acquainted with the mysteries of
+their religion. Some of the people are very sincere in their
+devotional exercises, which are energetic and simple; whilst many
+pay little respect to the exterior forms of worship, openly
+ridiculing those who profess a greater share of sanctity than
+themselves; and, whenever they are unsuccessful in their pursuits
+and enterprizes, even belabour their household gods without mercy.
+They entertain also an idea that the soul hovers round the scenes
+it had known in the body, for an indefinite length of time; but
+that it is ultimately conducted to a place of happiness or misery;
+a kind of heaven for the peaceable, and hell for the turbulent,
+according to the deeds it has suggested in this life, and there to
+remain everlastingly. Both Mohammedan and Pagan attach miraculous
+qualities to fetishes or charms, which to them are an effectual
+panoply against every danger; sometimes a chief or great man is
+actually covered with them from head to foot, and in this state
+considers himself as secure as Achilles in his armour. I have often
+been urged to discharge<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_273">[273]</span> a pistol, loaded with ball, at the breast
+of an individual thus supernaturally defended, but it is
+unnecessary to say that I never risked the men’s lives at the
+expence of their ignorance and credulity, having endeavoured in
+every instance, although unsuccessfully, to persuade them out of
+their superstitious prejudices by less dangerous experiments. The
+natives appear to have no gloomy foreboding as the hour of death
+approaches; nor do they, as I had often been given to understand,
+anticipate dissolution with any symptoms of fear or alarm.</p>
+
+<p>Those who profess the Mohammedan religion amongst the negroes
+are as ignorant and superstitious as their idolatrous brethren; nor
+does it appear that their having adopted a new creed has either
+improved their manners, or bettered their state and condition in
+life. On the contrary, I have generally found the followers of the
+Prophet to be less hospitable to strangers, less kind to each
+other, and infinitely more mischievous and wicked than the heathen
+portions of the community, whom they, whimsically enough, affect to
+despise as rude barbarians,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_274">[274]</span> although <em>their</em> claims to superior
+intelligence are grounded simply on the oral communications of the
+principles of the Koran, received from time to time from the
+wandering Moors and Arabs; or from traditionary legends of their
+country. The artful Arabian, however, withholds from them a full
+half of the little he himself may be acquainted with, taking care
+to teach them no more than is absolutely necessary to promote his
+own views, and enlarge his own interests. The Mohammedan negroes go
+through their ablutions regularly, and when water is not to be
+obtained, make use of sand, as the Koran enjoins. The Tuaricks, or
+“Bereberes,” (Children of the Desert,) adopt the latter method on
+all occasions, the trouble of applying water, even when they have
+abundance within their reach, being too irksome and unpleasant for
+them.</p>
+
+<p>The Falatahs, who profess Islamism, understand and make use of a
+few Arabic prayers, but the negro that can utter so long a sentence
+as: “<em>La illah el Allah rasoul allahi!</em>” (There is but one
+God, and Mohammed is his prophet,)<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_275">[275]</span> is styled <em>mallam</em>, or learned, and
+is regarded with looks of respect and reverence by his less
+intelligent countrymen. These mallams are scattered in great
+numbers over the country, and procure an easy and respectable
+subsistence by making fetishes, or writing charms on bits of wood,
+which are washed off carefully into a bason, and drunk with avidity
+by the credulous multitude, who consider the dirty water used in
+the operation as a panacea for every disease and affliction. As the
+office of mallam, which answers to that of priest in Catholic
+countries, is one of great sanctity as well as considerable
+emolument, every one burns with impatience to get initiated into
+its sacred mysteries, and enjoy a like comfortable and indolent
+life as the mallams themselves; for a learned man never toils or
+spins, but is bountifully fed, and pampered in luxury by his lay
+countrymen. Every caravan is furnished with one or more of these
+corpulent drones, who loll at their ease, while their employers are
+at the same time, perhaps, actually killing themselves with
+over-exertion.</p>
+
+<p>Few of the negroes can articulate in Arabic<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_276">[276]</span> more than the word “Allah,” or
+“Bismillah,” believing that the frequent repetition of the former
+of these expressions can absolve them from all sin, without any
+further demonstration of their zeal and sincerity. Even after the
+committal of a capital offence, should the criminal be almost
+immediately executed, and “Allah!” is heard to tremble on his
+closing lips, the multitude firmly believe that his soul will
+inevitably be conveyed to the third Heaven, and be happy for
+evermore.</p>
+
+<p>Swarms of sheriffs, or emirs, the real or fictitious descendants
+of Mohammed and Ali, have crossed the desert, and practice their
+disgraceful impositions to so great an extent, that the eyes of the
+natives are partially opened to their chicanery, and they are often
+regarded as characters with whom it would be dangerous to
+meddle.</p>
+
+<p>The belief in the “Evil Eye,” is equally common with Mohammedan
+as Pagan, and this superstition, borrowed from the Moors, has lost
+none of its fearful interest by being transplanted to a foreign
+soil. If sickness of any kind visits a child before it has attained
+the age of three or<span class="pagenum" id="Page_277">[277]</span>
+four years, then say the people the “Evil Eye, is fixed upon it,”
+and the relatives of the afflicted infant endeavour to avert the
+wasting glance of the malevolent and unseen spirit by sacrifices of
+birds, and various other means.</p>
+
+<p>Mallams from Houssa reside in almost every town of consequence
+through which we passed on our journey into the
+interior,—propagating their religion, and teaching the inhabitants
+to read and write as much as they themselves know. The Mohammedan
+faith is spreading daily and rapidly by this means, particularly in
+Nyffé, hundreds of the natives of that kingdom having lost sight of
+their ancient prejudices, and the religion of their forefathers,
+and embraced the more congenial tenets of Islamism. In some cities
+or towns, however, these mallams have been very roughly handled by
+the people, and many of them have lost their lives in
+disseminating, with too great eagerness, their opinions amongst the
+worshippers of idols. As an instance of this, five holy men, two or
+three of whom were Arab emirs, visited Katunga, the capital of
+Yariba, a few years since, and immediately<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_278">[278]</span> began to spread the dogmas of their faith
+amongst the inhabitants, publicly teaching their children to read
+the Koran, &amp;c. The priests of the fetish, who, in regard to
+their religious observances, surprizingly resemble the Druids of
+England before the Conquest, became sensibly alarmed at the rapid
+progress of another and strange belief, so inimical to their best
+interests, and tending to the injury, if not the complete
+overthrow, of the power and influence which they themselves and
+their ancestors had exercised for a series of ages over the minds
+and actions of the votaries of Paganism. They went in a body to
+their monarch, the present king, threatening him with the loss of
+his empire, if he persisted in tolerating the religious principles
+broached by the mallams. This denunciation so intimidated the
+superstitious prince, that he was frightened into a compliance with
+their wishes of appointing a day, or rather night, for the
+assassination of the unsuspecting Mussulmans, which was accordingly
+carried into execution, and Ben Gumso, my old friend in Soccatoo,
+was the only one amongst the number<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_279">[279]</span> who escaped with life. This learned Arab
+was indebted to one of the wives of his Yaribean majesty, for his
+flight and preservation. Having overheard part of the conversation
+between her royal consort and the fetish-priests, and entertaining
+some share of veneration for the expounders of a doctrine she
+secretly approved of, as well as feeling compassion for them, in
+consequence of their premeditated massacre, the queen embraced the
+earliest opportunity of apprizing Ben Gumso of the danger that
+threatened his companions and himself; but this being done only a
+few seconds before the execution of the sentence, the Arab was
+obliged to elope in a state of nudity from his house, without
+having leisure to bestow a single thought on his ill-fated
+associates.</p>
+
+<p>From that period a mallam has never ventured to enter the gates
+of Katunga, and the Mohammedan religion was soon forgotten by the
+people. They have, however, penetrated beyond the empire of Yariba,
+two Houssa holy men, having found their way to Jannah, the town in
+which Dr. Morrison, it is said, died<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_280">[280]</span> and was buried, and three others to
+Badagry; but more of these individuals are allowed openly to
+profess their religion, or teach the children of the inhabitants to
+read, on pain of death; and, they are, moreover, looked upon with
+the greatest suspicion. The mallams, in the latter city, were not
+permitted to make themselves known to us on our journey into the
+interior, nor to me on my return, till after I had swallowed the
+fetish-water, when they visited me with presents of fowls, ducks,
+and rice, and testified the sincerest pleasure on my answering
+their earnest interrogations respecting their native country.</p>
+
+<p>Nevertheless, in the course of a generation or two, I have no
+doubt, in spite of every obstacle, that the religion of Mohammed,
+in its exterior forms and ceremonies at least, will be universally
+adopted in Western and Central Africa, to the complete
+discomforture of the fetish-priests and their proselytes; and
+unless some unforseen convulsion arrest the hasty and gigantic
+strides Islamism is making towards that consummation, and divert
+the minds of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_281">[281]</span>
+people to other objects, the period does not seem to be very remote
+when Paganism will be unknown in the land.</p>
+
+<h3>LAWS.</h3>
+
+<p>In a rude state of society nothing can be more simple than the
+laws and punishments of the people. In several of the Pagan
+countries of the interior of Africa, having no written code, the
+natives appoint elders to administer justice, at the head of whom
+the King, or chief, generally presides. In petty cases, such as
+trifling assaults and other misdemeanors, the parties concerned
+compromise the matter without referring it to the general assembly.
+In Badagry the fetish-priests are the sole judges of the people,
+and the statutes of their country, like those of the Druids, are
+recorded in their own breasts only, consequently they are mostly
+swayed in their decisions by interest, or influenced by prejudice
+and passion; but in no instance are they murmured against by either
+plaintiff or defendant.</p>
+
+<p>Murder, adultery, and theft, are the most general crimes, and in
+many African countries are<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_282">[282]</span> punishable with death, banishment, or
+perpetual imprisonment. In Yariba and Nyffé, the relatives of a
+murdered man may, and often do, accept of a sum of money, named by
+them, from the criminal, which is considered equivalent to corporal
+punishment. In Badagry, Borghoo, and Houssa, however, an individual
+guilty of slaying a free man, if apprehended, instantly loses his
+life, and his body is left to be devoured by vultures.</p>
+
+<p>In cases of adultery, the injured husband is at liberty to do
+what he pleases with his unfaithful partner, even to the taking
+away her life; and if her seducer has not money enough at his
+disposal to satisfy the former for the loss of his honor, the same
+punishment may be inflicted upon him also. The extreme rigor of the
+laws on this head occasions instances of adultery to be exceedingly
+rare in every other country but Borghoo, where the punishment
+attending it being infinitely less rigidly exacted, the offence is
+more generally prevalent.</p>
+
+<p>Theft, in Nyffé, is punished by imprisonment of the party or
+parties; and in all aggravated<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_283">[283]</span> cases the criminal is confined in irons, in
+a large gloomy dungeon, for a given number of years, where he is
+compelled to labour in various avocations till the expiration of
+the term expressed in his sentence. In Yariba the crime of
+stealing, owing to the dreadful severity of punishment that awaits
+delinquents, is by no means common among the people. Free men,
+found guilty of larceny, are operated upon, and retained by the
+king or his chiefs as guardians for their numerous wives. In this
+state they are equal in value to five prime slaves; and it makes no
+difference if the thief be the father of a large family, or the
+husband of many females, and respectable as to wealth and
+connections,—the sentence is on all occasions rigorously enforced.
+Those who effect robberies of greater magnitude, or burglaries (if
+free men), are chastised in the same singular manner, after which
+the tattoo mark of their country is cancelled (consisting simply of
+having the face cut and gashed in a thousand places), that of
+another nation substituted, and when partially recovered from the
+effects of the wounds, the miserable wretches are<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_284">[284]</span> driven, like beasts, to the
+sea-coast, and sold into perpetual slavery. <em>Slaves</em> guilty
+of theft, or indeed of almost any other crime, are uniformly
+decapitated in Yariba, without the benefit of trial; whereas all
+free men are judged impartially by the elders of the people in the
+hearing of the king, in the palaver-house, or hall of council.</p>
+
+<p>Yarro, ruler of Khiama, a province of Borghoo, encourages theft,
+by appropriating part of the stolen property to his own use, which
+is generally presented to him by the robber in person; but if an
+individual, after being successful in a depredation, forgets or
+refuses to tender the accustomed portion of the spoil to his
+sovereign, he is immediately beheaded, and the whole of his
+property falls to the king. On my return to that country I was
+informed by several of the natives, that as soon as their prince
+heard of our approaching his territories from Yariba, he caused a
+proclamation to be issued in every town through which we were
+expected to pass, prohibiting the inhabitants from stealing even a
+needle from the white men, and threatening with<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_285">[285]</span> death every one that infringed
+this law. To this wholesome and timely declaration of Yarro I
+attribute the great respect in which our persons were held by the
+multitude, and the reverence with which they regarded our property
+and effects.</p>
+
+<p>In Yariba and Borghoo, as well as in several other countries,
+when women find themselves <em>enceintes</em>, they must
+immediately inform their husbands of the circumstance; or in
+attempt at concealment, are publicly flogged. The same punishment
+is also inflicted on females who are known to associate with the
+other sex before the expiration of three years after the birth of
+an infant, that being the period mothers are obliged to suckle
+their offspring.</p>
+
+<h3>GOVERNMENT.</h3>
+
+<p>The government of Badagry, Yariba, Nyffé, and Houssa, is a
+perfect and unlimited despotism, the sovereigns of those countries
+exercising absolute power over the lives and property of their
+subjects, as well as the privilege of enacting the most arbitrary
+laws, and other acts peculiar<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_286">[286]</span> to the kingly office. The government of
+Borghoo, however, partakes more of the nature of a limited monarchy
+than of real despotism, the people sharing, in some degree, in the
+management of the state, through the representation of the chiefs
+or elders of towns, who, like the feudal barons of England in the
+reign of John, have considerable influence with their sovereign,
+and are consulted in all affairs of consequence. These chiefs,
+themselves, are oftentimes factious and turbulent, fomenting
+innumerable broils and wranglings amongst the people in their
+respective jurisdictions, to gratify with a better grace their own
+private feelings of resentment, and to disturb the public peace by
+arbitrary and unlawful proceedings. The people of Boussa, the
+principal state in Borghoo, together with those of its sister
+provinces of Youri, Wow Wow, and Khiama, are indebted to the
+Bornouese for their origin; or at least the traditions of the
+natives intimate that Borghoo was colonized from Bornou at a remote
+era, in which opinion all classes implicitly believe; and, like the
+Carthaginians of old, the people of the former<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_287">[287]</span> kingdom are not forgetful of their
+derivation, but send annually a number of presents by way of
+acknowledgment to their ancient country; although of late years,
+owing to the disturbances of the Falatahs, the accustomed presents
+have not been received in Bornou with the same punctuality as
+formerly.</p>
+
+<h3>AMUSEMENTS.</h3>
+
+<p>The recreations of the Africans are few and simple. At Wow Wow
+horse-racing takes place every Friday, (the Mohammedan Sabbath,)
+immediately after the compliments of the day are over. The course,
+which is a mile in length, is kept clean and free from grass,
+&amp;c. by persons appointed for that purpose by the king; and the
+race is extremely well contested, exciting amongst the people
+generally as lively an interest as the same sport does in the minds
+of my own countrymen. The competitors are oftentimes twelve or
+fourteen in number, and the rider of the swiftest horse obtains no
+other reward than the honor of the deed itself, and the privilege
+of <em>dancing</em>, at the conclusion of the<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_288">[288]</span> game, with the king, queens, and
+princesses of Wow Wow! The inhabitants, on these occasions, attire
+themselves in their gayest apparel, and, in the evening, assembling
+in groups in different parts of the town, pass many an hour in
+singing, dancing, and carousing, till, towards morning, they go
+tipsy to bed. Horse-racing is, I believe, peculiar to Wow Wow; for
+in no other African country that I have heard of (except perhaps
+Khiama), or that came within the reach of my own observation, is a
+similar amusement preserved. The people of Borghoo divert
+themselves by playing at a kind of chequers, and throwing cowries
+from a certain distance into a hole previously dug in the earth;
+the latter amusement is somewhat similar to our “pitch and toss,”
+and is cultivated by all ranks and both sexes with uncommon ardour.
+In addition to these pastimes, the higher orders spend whole days
+in hunting and fishing.</p>
+
+<h3 class="normal-size"><span class="med-size">SONGS, MUSIC,</span>
+&amp;c.</h3>
+
+<p>If the character of a nation may be judged of by its Songs, the
+Africans undoubtedly would<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_289">[289]</span> be pronounced as the boldest and most
+martial, as well as the most amorous people, on the face of the
+globe. Their strains breathe nothing but love and war, and contempt
+of death; but their conduct, instead of corresponding with such
+lofty ideas, is the most pusillanimous imaginable, scarcely one
+amongst them ever evincing a solitary trait of true courage or
+resolution. Of all figures of speech, they most delight in the use
+of the “apostrophe;” and it is not uncommon, even but a single day
+after a defeat, to hear them calling aloud on the names of their
+absent adversaries, and bestowing upon them all manner of cowardly
+and reproachful epithets.</p>
+
+<p>“Our enemies tremble and are dismayed when they hear of our
+approach,” sing the people of Yariba; “and at sight of our arrows
+they die with fear! See them fleeing like the doe from our fighting
+men! Behold them falling down and kissing the dust from the feet of
+our warriors! Haste, haste, Yaribeans! pursue and overtake your
+enemies; slay them without mercy; stop their voices, that they sing
+no more at eventide by the light of the moon; they are<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_290">[290]</span> swift of foot, but they shall
+not escape you; they are already weary; their journey of life is
+almost at an end; they have fallen to the earth, and will dance no
+more. Weep, ye widows of Houssa, and let the lamentations of your
+children be heard in the land, for they are fatherless, and your
+husbands have been pierced by the lance of Yariba! They are clothed
+in darkness, as the noon in a storm. Who can tell whither their
+spirits are wandering? Weep, ye widows of Houssa; but your tears
+flow in vain; your husbands will return no more!”</p>
+
+<p>This is the nature of the strains sung by the females of
+Katunga, (principally the king’s wives,) at the celebration of
+their solemn feasts and festivals: the Houssans (or rather the
+Falatahs of that country) being their most inveterate enemies, are
+on all occasions the subject of their poetry, and are made to flee
+from the Yaribeans in imagination, whilst in reality they are
+worsted in every engagement. Their social and domestic songs,
+however, are delivered in recitative, (as are likewise those of the
+people of Borghoo,) and are the reverse of their public and
+national ones.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_291">[291]</span> The
+young females in both kingdoms that may happen to have strong clear
+voices, are generally selected as wives, or rather concubines, for
+the ruling monarchs. Their office is principally to attend on the
+king’s person, and sing and fan him to sleep, and the ladies
+consume great part of the day in these avocations; to vary which
+they sometimes play music and whistle for a long time together.
+These ladies also dally with their sovereign, by flinging their
+arms round his neck, arranging his sable locks with their fingers,
+playing the fool with his face, and a thousand other fantastic
+inventions to amuse him, such as the sex know so well how to avail
+themselves of all over the world. It is the custom in Europe for
+gentlemen to flatter the graces of the fair sex, whereas in Africa
+the practice is completely reversed; for the most extravagant
+encomiums are lavished on the beauty and blandishments of mankind
+by the gentler part of the creation.</p>
+
+<p>The following imperfect translation of a song, recited by his
+young wives, to the sovereign of Khiama, may serve as a specimen of
+the whole of their amatory poetry:—</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_292">[292]</span>“Yarrow is fair
+among men: he shines like a star of the night; who so beautiful as
+Yarrow? His eyes have greater lustre than the antelope’s—more
+ardour than a young lion’s, when he captures his prey. His form is
+elegant as the palm-tree; he is gentle as a kid when she follows
+her dam. But Yarrow is brave in fight; his enemies tremble at the
+sound of his name, as a leaf shaken by the wind; they fall to the
+earth beneath the power of his arm, for he is a mountain of
+strength. The turtle dove is not so affectionate as our king; doth
+he not cherish his wives and concubines? Who so lovely as Yarrow?
+When he is pleased, the moon is not so mild as the light of his
+countenance; but when he frowns, who shall withstand his wrath? His
+face lowers like the clouds of heaven in a tempest; O, he is
+terrible in battle! Awake and be glad, ye daughters of Khiama;
+sing, ye sons, to the praise of our lord, for he is fair as the
+morning, and his countenance is like the sun in his strength. He is
+fair among men; who so beautiful as Yarrow?”</p>
+
+<p>It would be as difficult to detach singing and<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_293">[293]</span> dancing from the character of
+an African, as to change the colour of his skin. I do not think he
+would live a single week in his own country without participating
+in these his favourite amusements; to deprive him of which would be
+indeed worse than death. In every <em>grade</em> of society, from
+the monarch to the meanest slave, he is also fond of instrumental
+music, even to a passion, and a European fiddler (provided he be
+not blind,) with no very extraordinary pretensions to excellence in
+his profession, might travel with ease and comfort, even if he were
+destitute of a single cowry, from Badagry to Bornou. He would be
+received every where with open arms, lodged in palaces, and
+sumptuously fed; although he might, perhaps, feel some trifling
+inconvenience from excess of kindness, and compulsory detention for
+a day or two in the principal cities. But, notwithstanding their
+strong partiality for this kind of music, the instruments of the
+Africans are of the rudest description. A large drum, made from the
+trunk of a tree, and covered with sheep-skin; a long brass trumpet,
+from Barbary; the Arab fiddle, and a kind of<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_294">[294]</span> dulcimer, formed of bamboo, and played
+upon with two little sticks, are great favorites in all the
+interior countries. The people have also guitars, bag-pipes, and
+tubes of iron, which answer the purpose of tin plates, the sound
+produced being very similar to the noise of those instruments; but
+a little flute, like a child’s penny whistle in England, is most
+admired by the Africans; and of all their music this is certainly
+the most harmonious. Yet even on these instruments they perform
+most vilely, and produce a horribly discordant noise, which may,
+perhaps, be delightful to their own ears; but to strangers, if they
+have the misfortune to be too near the performers, no sounds can be
+more harsh and disagreeable than such a concert.</p>
+
+<p>Of all the amusements of the Africans, none can equal their song
+and dance in the still, clear hours of night, when the moon,
+walking in beauty in the heavens, awakens all the milder affections
+of their nature, and invites them to gladness and mirth. As soon as
+this splendid luminary appears above the horizon, every individual,
+both slave and free, is on the alert,—some<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_295">[295]</span> to fetch wood from a neighbouring forest,
+and others to procure provisions in the village; and forming
+themselves in a circle, generally round a venerable tree, they
+prepare large fires, in order to frighten away any wild beasts that
+may be prowling near the spot, and begin their country dance, which
+does not differ from one extremity of the continent to the other. I
+have often been a party to these innocent entertainments, which are
+frequently kept up with inconceivable spirit and agility, till the
+approach of morning; and as often been delighted with the perfect
+harmony and kindly feeling that prevailed amongst the dancers. It
+produces a pleasing and romantic effect, to observe the silvery
+light of the moon, blending with the radiance of the flames, and
+thrown upon the sable countenances of the happy group,—as well as
+the lengthened reflection of the majestic tree cast along the
+ground, and the moving figures, gliding like shadows across it.</p>
+
+<p>On these occasions all care is completely laid aside, and every
+one delivers himself up<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_296">[296]</span> to the dissipation of the moment, without a
+thought of the morrow, his heart having no <em>vacuum</em> for
+melancholy anticipations. During the intervals of the dance and
+song, the party either eat and drink, or re-kindle the fires, after
+which they begin again with renewed ardour. Their songs are
+composed extempore by one of the party, who recites to his or her
+companions, and they all join in the strain. They do not contain
+many poetical beauties, but allude generally to the dancers
+themselves, to the dread of wild beasts, or commands or entreaties
+for a particular person to fetch wood. The following, sung in my
+presence, may serve as a translated specimen of all of them:—</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0">Come, let us join the dance and
+song,</div>
+
+<div class="line indent4">The moon is bright in heaven;</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">No anxious cares to us belong,</div>
+
+<div class="line indent4">To cloud this lovely even.</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0">The white man midst our festive
+glee—</div>
+
+<div class="line indent4">Forgets his father-land;</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">And the group laughs around our
+tree</div>
+
+<div class="line indent4">By gentle zephyrs fann’d.</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_297">[297]</span>Haste, Nalla,<a id="FNanchor_7"></a><a href=
+"#Footnote_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> to yon forest shade,</div>
+
+<div class="line indent4">And feed the flickering flame;</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">How swiftly flies the panting maid</div>
+
+<div class="line indent4">To earn a deathless name!<a id=
+"FNanchor_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8" class=
+"fnanchor">[8]</a></div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0">The panther’s yell—the lion’s roar—</div>
+
+<div class="line indent4">Resound from wood to wood;</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">How gladly would they spill our
+gore!</div>
+
+<div class="line indent4">How gladly lap our blood!</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0">But we are safe—they dare not come</div>
+
+<div class="line indent4">To mar our evening sport;</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Scared by the fire, or sounding
+drum,</div>
+
+<div class="line indent4">They other pleasures court.</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0">Then join the merry dance and song;</div>
+
+<div class="line indent4">The moon is high in heaven;</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">No anxious cares to us belong,</div>
+
+<div class="line indent4">To cloud this lovely even.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>When heard at a distance, in the midst of solitary woods, the
+vocal music of the natives has a pleasing plaintive effect,
+equalling in softness any I have heard in more civilized countries;
+and Captain Clapperton and myself used to remain<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_298">[298]</span> awake in our tent for hours
+together, listening to its melancholy strains.</p>
+
+<p>It is not to be expected that after these midnight revelries the
+people are in a condition to rise at a very early hour; indeed the
+generality of Africans are constitutionally inclined to indolence,
+a disease which the relaxing nature of their climate by no means
+tends to lessen; and when not <em>obliged</em> to labour, they feel
+no desire to over-exert themselves, or to shake off their
+drowsiness, except from a call of necessity. Their soil, in fact,
+in most parts is so surprisingly rich and productive, as to
+supersede the necessity of that laborious manual exertion which the
+cultivation of it requires in many other regions; and in the
+absence of all intellectual amusements, they dole away the sultry
+hours of noon in sleeping, lounging about from place to place,
+gossiping, smoking, or drinking.</p>
+
+<h3>SLAVERY.</h3>
+
+<p>Slavery, from time immemorial, has flourished in every nation
+and amongst every people in the interior countries, and seems to be
+implanted<span class="pagenum" id="Page_299">[299]</span> so deeply
+in the soil, that the slightest hope cannot be entertained of its
+being speedily outrooted. The slave, however, in most interior
+districts, is treated with infinitely greater lenity and kindness
+than among the less civilized natives of the sea coast; and the
+condition of the slaves of European planters is not to be compared
+with his, for happiness and comfort. If his character be good, and
+his honesty unquestioned, the slave of the African is admitted into
+the house of his master, placed on an equality with himself and
+male children, thrusts his hand into the same bowl of tuah as they,
+shares their confidence, and participates in all their pleasures
+and amusements. An instance is never known of a dependant, having
+an unblemished character, and active industrious habits, being sent
+to the coast, to be sold; in fact, every one considers this to be
+the greatest punishment that can be inflicted upon him,—the idea of
+the whites eating their countrymen, and dyeing their clothes red
+with their blood, being as general and as deeply-rooted as in the
+nations through which Mr. Park travelled twenty or<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_300">[300]</span> thirty years ago. Those sent
+to the sea-side from the interior are invariably the scum and
+refuse of the country,—freebooters, lawless refractory fellows,
+adulterers, and even murderers. Upon the whole, I should consider
+the situation of the domestic slave of Africa (their relative
+feelings compared), to be more enviable than that of the household
+servant of Europe, inasmuch as a feeling of dependence never enters
+the mind of the former, and, as it has already been observed, he is
+placed in almost every respect on an equality with his master.</p>
+
+<p>Nature has wisely endowed the African with a buoyant, cheerful,
+happy temper; so that no calamity, however great,—no grief, however
+poignant,—is capable of making a deep or lasting impression on his
+mind. He does indeed display a lively natural feeling when his
+infant children are snatched forcibly from his embraces, or he
+himself torn from his home, and kindred, and village-tree, to gaze
+upon strange faces, and wander amongst foreign scenes; but this
+emotion is as evanescent as a flash of lightning; he knows no fixed
+lasting sorrow; past<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_301">[301]</span> misfortunes are quickly swallowed up in
+present enjoyment, while anticipations of the future have no power
+to harass and perplex him, because it is painful for him to think
+at all, and he does <em>not</em> think. I have often seen
+disobedient slaves, and slaves offered for sale, singing in chains
+and dancing in fetters, suffering at the same time under a
+loathsome disease, and an accumulation of misery, the very
+<em>thoughts</em> of which would melt, even to tears, a
+sympathizing English philanthropist! For their parts, they hardly
+know what a bitter moment is, and enjoy themselves, although under
+such apparently overwhelming circumstances, with as keen a zest as
+if they had been surrounded by their friends and companions, and
+dancing by the light of the moon, underneath the branches of their
+favourite tree. In their toilsome journeyings from one part of the
+country to another, it must be admitted that the <em>captured</em>
+slaves undergo incredible hardships; yet when even they arrive at
+the end of their march, all their woes are buried for ever in a
+calabash of <em>pitto</em> or <em>otée</em>, and they are as merry
+and thoughtless a day or two afterwards as they ever were.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_302">[302]</span>On the coast,
+however, things wear a different and far less agreeable aspect; the
+slaves there are mostly captured from the neighbouring states, and,
+suddenly losing their darling amusements, become melancholy and
+pensive on shipboard. The confined, impure air of the vessel
+augments their sufferings; and when, after landing on an unknown,
+and to them an unlovely soil, they writhe in agony under the
+excoriating lash of the unfeeling planter, because they
+<em>cannot</em> work, is it to be marvelled at that, driven to
+almost desperation, they become morose, unsociable, and headstrong?
+I have often been a reluctant witness to such disgraceful
+spectacles, and wondered it was in the power of a human creature to
+undergo so rigorous a punishment without a murmur.</p>
+
+<h3>TIMIDITY OF THE NATIVES.</h3>
+
+<p>A vein of <em>true</em> courage does not exist, I really
+believe, in any individual of the nations we visited. In most
+savage and half-civilized countries, such as the Tonga Islands, and
+the rarely frequented districts of North America, for
+instance,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_303">[303]</span> sparks of
+noble resolution and greatness of soul are oftentimes observable in
+the natives: but the timidity of the African character is every
+where apparent. The eyes of the Gooberites, as well as those of the
+people of Borghoo, not unfrequently flash with a wild expression of
+ferocity, and their actions sometimes correspond with this
+indication of a barbarous nature, but it is not <em>courage</em>,
+and gradually fades at the approach of real danger. The people
+rarely make an attack on each other, or on a common enemy,
+excepting when they have a decided superiority of numbers, or are
+placed under circumstances peculiarly favourable to their
+operations; and even when this is the case, they are more mindful
+of individual safety than the general welfare, trusting rather to
+their heels than their arms to make good their retreat, if the
+least danger threatens them. They have no tradition of a chief
+amongst them that possessed, when living, a calm, unshrinking,
+persevering spirit; their greatest leaders now (as in former years)
+being all of one stamp, revengeful and passionate in war, and if
+not successful on the first onset, like<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_304">[304]</span> the lion, making rarely a second spring.
+The Falatahs, who claim all the bravery to themselves, are to a man
+dastardly poltroons, and have met with their astonishing good
+fortune,—not by open, manly courage, but by treachery, deceit, and
+cunning—by imposing on the superstitious fears of the simple
+aborigines, and by artfully insinuating themselves into the good
+opinion of the very people it was their secret intention to
+enslave, and, like the adder in the fable, watching the opportunity
+to bite the hand that nourished them. It would not be well to say
+that they have greater positive courage than the negro, but they
+have less pusillanimity and more shrewdness than he. Not all the
+glowing pleasures after death, which the religion of the Falatah
+teaches him to expect—not the unshaken belief in predestination
+that prompts the gloomy and enthusiastic Turk to rush headlong upon
+his fate—not the promised enjoyment for ever of the seventy-two
+lovely <em>houris</em> awarded to those that fall in the cause of
+Mohammed—not even the fearful and tremendous war-cry of his
+countrymen, “Allah Ackbar!” (God is victorious!) has
+the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_305">[305]</span> power of
+arousing the energies of the Falatah, or inspiring him with ardour
+and impetuosity in the fight. Securely shielded, as he fancies
+himself to be, from the effects of the arrows and spears of his
+adversary, by wearing thickly-quilted armour, and fortifying
+himself with Arab charms, the Falatah may indeed exhibit an air of
+defiance for a time; but if any thing occurs to stagger his faith
+in the virtue of his ægis, off he scampers, without considering the
+example he sets his companions, and does not stop till he is far
+beyond the reach of even imaginary danger!</p>
+
+<h3 class="normal-size"><span class="med-size">THE ARTS,</span>
+&amp;c.</h3>
+
+<p>Of the imitative arts, painting and sculpture, the Falatah
+understands absolutely nothing; indeed, the former art is almost
+entirely unknown in the interior, whilst the latter, however, is
+practised amongst the natives of Jannah, Yariba, and Borghoo, who
+have a natural fondness for it, and produce various specimens that
+evince considerable skill in the artist. Figures of men, as well as
+those of snakes, crocodiles, &amp;c. are<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_306">[306]</span> carved in bas-relief by them; and,
+contrasting the rudeness of the instruments used, with the fineness
+and delicacy of some of the indentions, it excites one’s admiration
+for their persevering industry and ingenious labours. The people
+are acquainted with many of the useful arts, such as working in
+iron, tanning, dyeing, &amp;c. The smiths are surprisingly skilful
+in their profession, and fuse and fashion iron into all manner of
+forms with extraordinary ease and dispatch. Hundreds of these
+useful artizans are scattered over the country, and Nyffé in
+particular swarms with them; they are universally respected, and
+treated with the utmost deference by every rank.</p>
+
+<p>The variety of the dyes of the Africans has been often remarked,
+and the richness and beauty which they maintain, notwithstanding
+constant exposure to the elements, elicit the admiration of even
+Europeans. The exquisite colour of native cottons, in particular,
+is unrivalled; and the art of dyeing is carried to as great a
+height of perfection in many countries in the interior as in the
+more enlightened portions of the world. The art of tanning is also
+carried on<span class="pagenum" id="Page_307">[307]</span> with
+equal spirit and success; and the leather dressed by the natives is
+equal, if not superior, to that manufactured in England. Saddlers,
+shoemakers, and tailors, are to be met with in most nations in
+Africa, and for ingenuity in their respective trades, yield to
+few.</p>
+
+<p>A smithy in Nyffé, &amp;c. is very similar to that which has
+been described in the celebrated narrative of Mr. Park’s first
+journey into the interior of Africa. The process of the fusion and
+fashioning of iron is exceedingly simple; and notwithstanding the
+very few tools that are used by working smiths, their quickness and
+ingenuity cannot be excelled, even by a European professing the
+same trade, and who has the advantages afforded by an acquaintance
+with all the rules of art.</p>
+
+<h3 class="normal-size"><span class="med-size">DRY AND WET
+SEASONS</span>, &amp;c.</h3>
+
+<p>The air, especially in the dry season, is oppressively hot; and
+if a mist or haze that sometimes hangs between the earth and sky,
+did not intercept the sun’s rays, it would be wholly insupportable.
+The African sky seldom displays<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_308">[308]</span> the clear, rich ether, or the beautiful and
+evanescent touches of the Italian; but if the appearance of the
+heavens be less lovely to the sight in the former country, by the
+existence of vapoury clouds in the air, the heat is rendered
+infinitely more tolerable by the same cause. Towards the latter
+part of the dry season, and all nature seems parched while
+withering (except on the margins of rivers), the earth is literally
+baked as hard as flint, while the birds and beasts, fluttering and
+panting in the shades, by their cries and moans seem to bewail the
+absence of rain. But no sooner does the wet season set in, than
+vegetation suddenly springing up, bursts into being; a fresh and
+redundant luxuriance of life breathes and floats around; the hills
+and dales are covered with a delightful verdure; the earth, the
+air, the sky, seem smiling in joy, and refreshed into gladness and
+beauty. Every thing looks cheerful and attractive: the horned
+cattle gambol on the plains, and the sheep and goats frisk on the
+slopes of mountains and hills; man himself appears animated with a
+new existence; pleasure swells in his veins, and dances on
+his<span class="pagenum" id="Page_309">[309]</span> countenance,
+and he enters cordially into the enjoyment which every province of
+nature invites him to partake in common with itself. This is
+generally during the intervals of the showers; it rather
+<em>floods</em> than <em>rains</em> in Africa, and continues
+without intermission for the space of twelve hours, when it
+suddenly stops, and a cessation of rain for twenty-four hours not
+unfrequently takes place.</p>
+
+<p>The sun setting in Africa is a grand and magnificent object; he
+then appears shorn of his beams, and may be gazed at by the naked
+eye for any length of time, without our experiencing a single
+painful sensation in that delicate organ. When he sinks below the
+horizon, he looks like a huge sphere of burning gold, and the hills
+(if any) towards the west seem as if on fire by the vivid
+reflection of his rays. Twilight is of short duration, and if the
+moon does not shine, darkness soon covers the earth like a veil. In
+no other country have I seen such cloudless, lovely nights, or so
+mildly beautiful a moon. I do not wonder that the natives sometimes
+adore her;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_310">[310]</span> she
+possesses a soothing, softening influence, of which they themselves
+are susceptible; and there is certainly something more captivating
+in the delightful appearance of so resplendent an orb, sailing
+gracefully through the purple vault of heaven, than in the figures
+of disgusting reptiles and monsters which the natives so often
+worship.</p>
+
+<p class="center med space-above2 space-below2">END OF VOL. I.</p>
+
+<hr class="decor width8">
+
+<p class="center"><span class="small">J. B. NICHOLS AND
+SON,</span><br>
+<span class="med">25, Parliament Street.</span>
+</p>
+
+<p class="x-ebookmaker-drop space-above2">
+</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes">
+<h2>FOOTNOTES:</h2>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1"><span class=
+"label">[1]</span></a>Mr. James was attacked with dysentery on his
+journey to Abomey, but lived to return to Whydah, where he died. It
+was said that he was assassinated by M. de Souza, but this report
+was not authenticated.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2"><span class=
+"label">[2]</span></a>George Dawson, an English seaman, was engaged
+at Badagry, as servant to Dr. Morrison, and accompanied that
+gentleman as far as Enguâ, where he died.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3"><span class=
+"label">[3]</span></a>A ceremony very similar to that which was
+formerly in use among the Jews, as may be seen by perusing the
+third verse of the 31st Psalm:—“Blow up the trumpet in the new
+moon, in the time appointed, on our solemn feast-day.”</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4"><span class=
+"label">[4]</span></a>Captain Clapperton and myself procured,
+whilst in the interior, two large pillows, covered with leather,
+and stuffed full of hair, which we found extremely serviceable to
+us, in consequence of the grateful coolness thus imparted during
+the warm nights of the dry season. Instead of laying our heads on
+the pillow, we used to clasp it in our arms, and, when saturated
+with perspiration, it was thrown aside, till becoming dry it was
+again embraced.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5"><span class=
+"label">[5]</span></a>In some counties in England called
+“ague-cake,” and supposed to arise from the effects of intermittent
+fevers.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6"><span class=
+"label">[6]</span></a>A kind of pudding made of flour, butter, and
+eggs.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7"><span class=
+"label">[7]</span></a>A female’s slave.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8"><span class=
+"label">[8]</span></a>The act of fetching wood in the night season,
+by reason of the existence of wild beasts in the woods, is
+considered an enterprize of danger; and those who accept the
+proposal are greatly eulogised, and held up as examples for others
+to copy.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="space-above2 x-ebookmaker-drop">
+</p>
+
+<div class="transnote">
+<h2>Transcriber's note:</h2>
+
+<ul>
+<li>The changes in the <a href="#err">ERRATA</a> have been
+made.</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_10">10</a> Changed: "of the myterious Niger"
+to: "mysterious"</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_31">31</a> Changed: "slavery in in a remote
+region" to: "slavery in a"</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_32">32</a> Changed: "brigantine haing been
+sent" to: "having"</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_67">67</a> Changed: "were subequently
+conducted" to: "subsequently"</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_127">127</a> Changed: "any of the
+incoveniences we had" to: "inconveniences"</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_146">146</a> Changed: "their strange-looking
+anoe" to: "canoe"</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_150">150</a>-151 Changed: "her excescessive
+plumpness" to: "excessive"</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_186">186</a> Changed: "the place, amogsnt all
+classes" to: "amongst"</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_199">199</a> Changed: "to migitate their
+sufferings" to: "mitigate"</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_212">212</a> Changed: "head much about
+religous matters" to: "religious"</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_213">213</a> Changed: "this information was
+comunicated" to: "communicated"</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_224">224</a> Changed: "The ollowing is a copy
+of it" to: "following"</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_243">243</a> Changed: "infested the
+neigbourhood" to: "neighbourhood"</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_300">300</a> Changed: "a bouyant, cheerful,
+happy temper" to: "buoyant"</li>
+
+<li>New original cover art included with this eBook is granted to
+the public domain.</li>
+</ul>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div style='text-align:center'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78091 ***</div>
+</body>
+</html>
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+This book, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
+metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
+Procedures for determining public domain status are described in
+the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org.
+
+No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in
+jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize
+this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright
+status under the laws that apply to them.
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for eBook #78091
+(https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/78091)