diff options
| -rw-r--r-- | .gitattributes | 3 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 78092-0.txt | 5551 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 78092-h/78092-h.htm | 7180 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 78092-h/images/cover.jpg | bin | 0 -> 129018 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 78092-h/images/i2.jpg | bin | 0 -> 229005 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 78092-h/images/i3.jpg | bin | 0 -> 228695 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 78092-h/images/i4.jpg | bin | 0 -> 55150 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 78092-h/images/i4_large.jpg | bin | 0 -> 281022 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 78092-h/images/i5.jpg | bin | 0 -> 177773 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 78092-h/images/i6.jpg | bin | 0 -> 136230 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 78092-h/images/i7.jpg | bin | 0 -> 66611 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 78092-h/images/i7_large.jpg | bin | 0 -> 373095 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | LICENSE.txt | 11 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | README.md | 2 |
14 files changed, 12747 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/78092-0.txt b/78092-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..9a803be --- /dev/null +++ b/78092-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,5551 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78092 *** + RECORDS + OF + CAPTAIN CLAPPERTON’S + LAST EXPEDITION + TO + =AFRICA:= + + BY RICHARD LANDER, + HIS FAITHFUL ATTENDANT, AND THE ONLY SURVIVING + MEMBER OF THE EXPEDITION: + + WITH THE + SUBSEQUENT ADVENTURES OF THE AUTHOR. + + * * * * * + + IN TWO VOLUMES. + + VOL. II. + + * * * * * + + LONDON: + HENRY COLBURN AND RICHARD BENTLEY, + NEW BURLINGTON STREET. + 1830. + + + * * * * * + J. B. NICHOLS AND SON, + 25, Parliament Street. + + + + + CONTENTS + OF THE SECOND VOLUME. + + * * * * * + + + CHAPTER X. + + Page + + Character of the Africans in general — Their social qualities + considered — Succinct remarks on the Natural History of the + Interior — Yam Yams — Arabs — Falatahs — War of the latter + people with Bornou and Fundah 1 + + CHAPTER XI. + + The Author resumes his Narrative — African huts — Recreations + and evening amusements of his Master and himself — Illness of + Captain Clapperton — His sufferings — Perfect resignation + under them — His death — Burial — Character 57 + + CHAPTER XII. + + The Author’s severe indisposition and distress of mind — + Conduct of Bello — Departure from Soccatoo — The Author almost + perishes of thirst in the “Goober Bush,” where he is deserted + by the faithless Pasko — The King of Jacoba — Horrid death of + that monarch’s slaves — The Author’s arrival at Kano 82 + + CHAPTER XIII. + + Pasko — The Author pays his respects to the Governor, and + leaves Kano — Chooses, near Bebajie, the road to Fundah — + Almena mountain — The Author is seen and recognised by + horsemen from Zeg Zeg — Arrives amongst the people of Bowchee + — Their manners — A girl’s lamentation on being sold by her + mother — The Author enters the immense plain of Cuttup — + Anecdote of an old woman 100 + + CHAPTER XIV. + + The Author overtaken at Dunrora by four armed horsemen from + Zeg Zeg, who force him to accompany them back to Zaria — His + reflections — Arrives in Zaria — Treatment of the King and his + son towards the Author — His entrance into Coulfo in Nyffé — + Revisits Wow Wow — The noted widow Zuma 128 + + CHAPTER XV. + + The Author becoming entangled, whilst crossing a river, in the + stirrups of his horse’s saddle, is thrown from its back, and + narrowly escapes drowning — Arrival at Khiama — Eccentric + conduct of the Prince of that State — Anecdote of his + messenger — Pasko’s thieving propensities turned to account — + The Author enters Katunga, the capital of Yariba — His + reception by Mansolah, its monarch — Song of five hundred of + his Wives — Fetish-hut 176 + + CHAPTER XVI. + + Ebo the celebrated fat Eunuch — The Yaribeans not very + delicate in the choice of what they eat — Dress of the + different people in the interior — Treatment of invalids — + Tattoo marks of different nations — The Author is urged to + become Son-in-law to Mansolah, Generalissimo of his forces, + and Prime Minister of State — Names of Towns — Departure from + Katunga — Anecdote of a gang of robbers — Mungo Park’s son — + Arrival at Badagry 201 + + CHAPTER XVII. + + Novel method adopted by Europeans for conveying slaves on + board their vessels — Conduct of the Portuguese Merchants, + resident at Badagry, towards the Author — The White Negroes — + Manners and ceremonies of the Badagrians — Horrid indifference + with respect to the Shedding of Human Blood — Murder of two of + the King’s wives by moonlight 238 + + CHAPTER XVIII. + + The Fetish-huts and tree at Badagry — Owing to the + insinuations of the Portuguese the Author is examined by the + Priests of the Fetish, and compelled to swallow bitter water, + being the only European that ever underwent that dreadful + ordeal — His thoughts when informed of the circumstance — + Astonishing preservation from an expected cruel death — + Sacrifices of human beings under the branches of the + Fetish-tree, exceeding in atrocity any thing heard of before — + Song of the inhabitants, with Adólee at their head, on the + occasion — The Author, on his visit to a Portuguese pirate, + discovers the sacred Fetish-tree of the Badagrians growing in + the heart of the forest, and covered with dismembered corpses + of human beings — The Portuguese 252 + + CHAPTER XIX. + + Captain Laing, of the Brig Maria, of London, hearing that an + Englishman was at Badagry, comes from Whydah to fetch the + Author — His reflections on leaving Badagry, and on reaching + the British vessel — The Maria sails for Cape Coast, where the + Author lands, and is taken on board the Esk sloop of war, + which Vessel sails for England — The Turtles — Arrival in + England, &c. 276 + + + + + WANDERINGS + IN + AFRICA. + + * * * * * + + CHAPTER X. + +Character of the Africans in general — Their social qualities considered +— Succinct remarks on the Natural History of the Interior — Yam Yams — +Arabs — Falatahs — War of the latter people with Bornou and Fundah. + + +The character Plutarch gives of the Athenians is strictly applicable to +the people of Africa in general, _in times of peace_:—“They are easily +provoked to anger, and as easily induced to resume sentiments of +benevolence and compassion.” This we found to be true in numberless +instances; particularly amongst the gentler sex, whose apprehensions are +quicker and more lively, and whose finer feelings more easily excited +than those of their male companions. We not unfrequently observed +persons quarrelling and fighting in one moment, with all the bitterness +of angry and elevated passions, and in the next as gentle as lambs, and +the most cordial friends in the universe; forgetting their previous +noisy dispute in the performance of reciprocal acts of kindness and good +nature. + +The African, ceaselessly engaged in sleeping, warfare, drinking, &c. +takes little, if any, delight in his own family circle. His is no +_domestic_ life: his children never prattle round his knee; his eye +never glistens with tenderness on receiving their innocent caresses; his +numerous wives, who are valued as a distinct and inferior order of +beings, weaken his affections and blunt his feelings; and he regards +them with looks of indifference or contempt. With him, + + + “All claims that bind and sweeten life,” + + +are, indeed, unknown; and, provided his wants be supplied, unless +aroused from his stupor by any particular event, he journeys calmly on, +with the most listless indifference imaginable, scarcely deigning to +bestow a solitary thought either on his country, or his wives and +children. He holds the dead, however, in the greatest veneration, hardly +venturing to let the name of a deceased relative escape his lips; and +if, when engaged in contentious bickerings, his opponent alludes to them +in a disrespectful manner, he interrupts him with this energetic +expression: “Curse _me_; slay _me_, if thou wilt; but do not rake up the +ashes of the dead. Let them rest in peace, or thou thyself shalt follow +them to the grave.” + +The natives are passionately fond of storytelling, and listen for hours +after the setting of the sun, with a gravity truly comic, to the recital +of tales of the most wonderful and incredible description, in which they +repose implicit belief. The following was told me with an air of great +solemnity, and with a full conviction of its truth, by a native of +Goober:— + +“Doncasson, Prince of that province, ordered a number of men to build +houses at the distance of three miles from Coonia, the capital, which +they undertook to finish within a given number of days. The workmen, +contrary to their expectation, could find no water in the neighbourhood +of the spot, nor, indeed, at a shorter distance than Coonia; and having +no vessels large enough to convey a sufficient quantity within the time +specified, they were put to their wits’ end, in what manner to act, +fearing that in the event of the non-fulfilment of their engagement a +dreadful punishment would await them. In this dilemma they applied for +advice to a female fortune-teller, residing in the city, who, having +accompanied them to the scite of the intended hamlet, ordered an immense +heap of earth, sufficient for the walls of the buildings, to be thrown +up; when the old woman immediately supplied them with the water +required, in the same manner as Gulliver extinguished the dreadful fire +that threatened to destroy the capital of the kingdom of Lilliput, on +his visit to that country; and thus the buildings of Doncasson were +finished a week earlier than was expected.” + +The persons of the Africans, of both sexes, are perfectly well-formed. I +never saw an individual in the whole country with a hump on his back, or +any other species of deformity whatever; and this will appear the more +strange when it is considered that no people in the world pay less +attention to their offspring in their tender years. We frequently saw +individuals with only one hand, the other having been amputated as a +punishment; but never met with a person that had lost a leg. The people +used to deride us when we affirmed that some of our countrymen were +furnished with _wooden_ legs in lieu of natural ones, believing that a +person could never survive the loss of so important a member. + + + NATURAL HISTORY. + + +Of the natural history of the regions we traversed I can say but little, +my very limited and imperfect acquaintance with that interesting study, +in either of its branches, incapacitating me from giving any thing like +a description of the various productions of the soil, or of the numerous +animals that inhabit the woods or the rivers. + +Magnificent forests of tall trees are scattered over the face of the +country from Badagry to Soccatoo, and afford, in their gloomy solitudes, +shelter to numerous species of reptiles and wild beasts. The palm, the +cocoa, the tamarind, the banana, the fig, the date (a species of palm), +the butter, and other trees, are indigenous; and several varieties of +plum grow in woods of Yariba, as well as a tree bearing a fruit similar +in size and appearance to our “love apple,” and in flavour, to the +_cashew_ apple of the West Indies. Stunted orange, lemon, and lime +trees, bearing fruit of inferior quality, may also be found growing wild +in that region, but are made little use of by the natives, who know not +how to improve them; the people have likewise water-melons, guayavas, +papaws, &c. &c. The cotton plant, indigo, rice, wheat, yams, maize, +Guinea corn, dourra, six or seven other varieties of corn, the plantain, +sweet potatoes, onions, and cassada, are cultivated to a great extent in +the interior countries. + +Reptiles are exceedingly numerous, but the bites of few of them, as far +as I was able to learn, are attended with fatal effects. We frequently +saw in the woods of Borghoo and Houssa a large species of snake swinging +in the sun-beams, with its tail encircling the branch of a tree; but on +the approach of a human creature, it would attain the summit in an +instant, and look from its elevation on the head of the person beneath. +The boa constrictor we rarely met with alive; on my journey from Kano, +however, I espied one of them, of about the bigness of a man’s thigh, +coiled up like a rope, and partially concealed by fallen branches and +leaves of trees. I watched the monster attentively for a moment or two, +being within a few yards of the spot: but at length observing me, it +attempted to hide itself, when I immediately discharged my piece at its +head, and in all probability wounded the animal, although it eluded a +rigorous search that I caused to be made after it. The beautiful reptile +called at the Cape of Good Hope the puff-adder, is unknown in the +central parts of the continent; but a slender green snake, elegantly +variegated with black, which is sometimes met with in the former +country, is seen in almost every inhabited place of the latter. I have +frequently observed, on awaking in the morning, one or more of these +reptiles, gliding from underneath the mat on which I had been sleeping, +towards the door of the hut, and so making their escape. The bite is +speedily mortal. Another snake, about two feet long, of a greyish +colour, whose bite is also fatal, is found in many parts of the country. +Pasko snatched up an adder of this description one day, thinking it to +be a bit of decayed wood, covered with lichen, which it greatly +resembles; but feeling the reptile twisting itself round his fingers, he +cast it from him before it had power to bite, and immediately fainted +from excess of fear. The natives hold all poisonous snakes in the +greatest dread, and can never be induced to touch them, even after they +are destroyed, believing that, although there be no cut on the hand by +which it could so enter, their venom yet attaches itself to the skin, +and insinuates itself into the blood of the person that seizes it. + +Of insects the most formidable are the ant, the locust, the mosquito, +the centipede (a peculiarly hideous animal), and the scorpion. The bites +of the two latter are attended with danger; but although they frequently +visited us in our tents and huts, we never had the ill-fortune to suffer +from their attacks. + +Wild animals, in incredible numbers, abound in the woods; amongst which +are the lion, elephant, tiger, tiger-cat, panther, leopard, hyena, wolf, +and hog. The camel is found in a wild state in Houssa; and that +beautiful animal the giraffe, or cameleopard, also inhabits the forests +of the same country. I saw three of them in my travels between Zaria, +Kano, and Soccatoo; they are excessively timid, and are rarely, if ever, +caught by the natives. Although the tremendous roar of the lion, which +made the woods tremble, could be heard by us when travelling at all +hours of the night; yet I never saw but two of those ferocious animals, +a male and female; which incident has already been mentioned in a +preceding part of my narrative. + +The elephant is annually becoming more shy and scarce in the interior. +The country people say that they have been taught the value of their +tusks, and therefore studiously avoid, as often as possible, the haunts +of man, by penetrating more deeply into the bosom of their ancient +forests. Be this as it may, they are not so frequently seen in Houssa as +formerly, and less often slain; and although numerous traces of them +were perceptible in the woods, we never met with a considerable number +at one time in all our journeyings. Elephants are more numerous in the +deep woods on the borders of the Quorra, near the island of Boussa, than +in any other place whatever. This may be accounted for by the king of +that country having interdicted his subjects, under dreadful penalties, +from slaying them. The fetish of the same monarch is a white elephant; +and it is believed that he can assume the form of that animal whenever +inclination or necessity may prompt him to disguise himself. Hence +elephants are held in considerable veneration by all ranks in Boussa; +and the figure of a _white_ one is worshipped as a god in that kingdom. + +I have often heard it remarked, that the elephant is as sluggish in his +motions as he is unwieldly in appearance; but this is by no means the +case. In proportion to his size, he is as fleet as other animals, which +I learnt to my cost in South Africa; for on going out shooting one day I +disturbed a huge elephant, which, unobserved by me, was standing at a +very short distance. The animal immediately pursued me; but it being a +few seconds before he could disentangle his legs from the thick +underwood that grew on the spot, I was considerably in advance before he +got into open ground. The beast ran much faster than I, and would have +overtaken me in a few minutes, if a dog that was with me had not made an +alarm which drew our party out of their encampment, fixed at no great +distance, who came to my assistance, and drove the animal back. As it +was, I was almost frightened to death, and resolved never again to come +to such close quarters with an elephant, bulky as he might be; since +that quality does not prevent him from using his gigantic legs with +elegance and dispatch. + +Of all untamed animals in Central Africa, hyenas are most to be dreaded; +they are astonishingly bold and ferocious, and commit great depredations +on the domestic animals of the natives. The howl of these creatures is +truly terrific, and their demoniacal laugh is enough to appal the +stoutest heart; hundreds of them used to pass and repass our tent in the +woods by night, our fires alone preventing them from commencing an +attack on our persons. The wild hog also does a great deal of mischief; +they visit the plantations in immense droves, and destroy the corn, or +whatever else may be growing on them. They inhabit the woods of Houssa, +but more particularly those in the vicinity of Soccatoo, where they are +found in considerable numbers; but no pains are taken by the inhabitants +of that city to exterminate them; in fact the Mohammedan portion of the +community would rather embrace a leper than touch the skin of one of +these abhorred animals; and there cannot be a greater affront than to +give a Falatah the epithet of “pork-eater.” + +The domestic animals are the camel, horse, ass, ox, pig, goat, sheep, +&c.; turkeys, ducks (the Muscovy kind), geese, the Guinea and common +fowl, are also tamed. The turkey is no where to be met with after +leaving Yariba; nor is the camel seen in that or any other country +between it and the coast. Although the pig is detested by the Falatahs, +the Mohammedan negro feasts on its flesh without the slightest +reluctance, as do likewise the Pagan natives indiscriminately. The large +species of ox with the hump, was first brought into Houssa, Nyffé, +Borghoo, Yariba, Cuttum Cora, Cubbé, &c. by the Falatahs, the native +breed being diminutive, and without the hump. The beef of both kinds is +always dry, and tough as leather; and as by reason of the heat it never +gets perfectly cool, or solid, it is very indifferent eating. The +sweetest and most palatable animal food, is the flesh of kids, which is +publicly sold in the markets at a reasonable rate. + +The native horse of the countries above enumerated, is particularly +small and shaggy; it is generally of a mouse colour, with hair as soft +and fine as silk; and, like the ass, has a black streak placed +transversely on the back and shoulders. The finest horses are imported +from Bornou, which country supplies every other in the interior with +that useful animal; and these are handsome, powerful beasts. The ass is +common in the interior, and for size, speed, strength, and beauty, +surpasses any animal of its kind I have ever seen, not even excepting +the most approved of the famous Spanish breed. They are highly valued by +the natives, and in some instances are preferred to the horse. Sheep and +goats are plentiful, but are of very inferior description; none of the +former are to be found with the enormous tail of fat which so peculiarly +distinguishes that animal at the Cape; but, as in all tropical +countries, they have hair instead of wool. Dogs and asses are eaten in +Yariba, and their flesh is much sought after. + +Of the feathered tribe, there are various species, of rich and brilliant +plumage. Parrots, Guinea fowls in a wild state, and a variety of doves, +are seen in the branches of the beautiful trees, and by their chattering +and cooing, impart a grateful animation to the spot near which they may +happen to take up their abode. The golden pigeon is sometimes to be +seen; its ground colour is a rich and vivid blue, and the feathers on +the breast and under the wings are tinged with a glittering yellow, +whence it takes its name. The grey pelican abounds on the margins of +rivers and streams in Houssa; it is much less than the white pelican, +and the beak in particular is considerably smaller than that of the +latter species. The former are found in immense numbers, more especially +at a place called Zulamee, and build their nests close to the water’s +edge, near to which they always stand to feed their young. The eggs are +esteemed as a delicacy by the natives; but the flesh of the bird is of +so offensive a flavour that it cannot be eaten. It is somewhat singular +that the opinion of the pelican feeding its young with its blood is as +general in Houssa as it is amongst the lower class of people in Europe; +and to this belief I must acknowledge myself a proselyte! I have stood +for a long while together by the side of this stupid animal, watching +its motions, and seeing it bending its head for its offspring to extract +their nourishment. The young ones thrust their beaks into a small round +aperture at the lower part of the back of the neck of their parent, and +they swallow the substance that flows freely through. If it be not blood +that issues from the old bird, it is a red liquid so closely resembling +it, that the difference cannot be perceived. I took a sketch of a +pelican feeding its young in this manner, in Houssa, which is now in my +possession; and I should not have said so much on the subject, if my +assertions had not been questioned by several of my countrymen. + +[Illustration] + +I met with few of the species of birds to be found in Southern Africa, +in the more central parts. A rook having a white ring round its throat, +is the same in both regions, as is also a small bird called in the +former country _finy fink_, and in the latter the “harvest-bird.” Its +feathers are fine, soft, and silky; but retain their splendid colour +only whilst the corn is in the ground, changing its plumage to a russet +brown as soon as the grain is fairly housed, which is just about the +period that its young are able to take wing. There are two varieties of +this beautiful bird, the colours of the one being yellow and black, and +those of the other a bright scarlet, or red and black. + +The rivers swarm with fish, which, generally speaking, are not very +delicious eating; and the consumption of them is confined chiefly to the +lower orders of the community. Crocodiles in incredible numbers infest +the rivers and streams from Badagry to Soccatoo, and are held in +considerable dread. I never saw any of these amphibious monsters of such +exceeding length and enormous dimensions as I have heard spoken of; the +largest I saw measuring no more than from fourteen to eighteen feet in +length, and of proportionate bulk. They sometimes attack the human +species; but such instances of their ferocity are not so often displayed +as the natives would wish strangers to believe, for, being fond of the +terrible, they magnify the most trifling incident in the world to one of +excessive horror. The eggs of the crocodiles are eaten by the people, +and greatly esteemed; they are certainly preferable to their hen’s eggs, +which are rarely more than half hatched, and when dressed look and taste +like water and curdled milk. They are also superior in flavour to the +eggs of the penguin, and although larger, closely resemble them in +appearance when boiled, the yolk in both being of a pale yellow, and the +more liquid part of a delicate blue. The former are used as charms by +the natives of Yariba and Borghoo, not only to deter crocodiles from +visiting their villages, but likewise to avert the “Evil Eye.” + + + THE YAM YAM. + + +The Yam Yam, in his most conspicuous traits, is alike different from the +Falatah, the Arab, and him that claims a Bornou descent, resembling, as +nearly as possible, the Caffre of the southern interior. The same open, +manly countenance—the same jetty blackness of skin—the same noble but +restless eye—the same advantageous stature, and athletic, powerful form, +are observable in both savages; and they have a like fondness for +pastoral pursuits; but the Yam Yam differs from the Caffre in being a +cannibal. He is accused by every nation of the revolting crime of eating +his own species; yet the united testimony of every nation might be +questioned as arising from prejudice or dislike, if he did not confess +it himself. A Yam Yam told me at Kano, deliberately and seriously, that +his countrymen not only devour the bodies of their enemies taken in +battle, but feed on the flesh of their friends and companions, purchased +from human shambles! + + + THE ARABS. + + +This ancient and extraordinary people are spread like locusts over the +central parts of the continent; and, like locusts also, have left marks +of their devastating qualities wherever they have appeared. Both Saracen +and Moor fall under the general denomination of _Arab_; and although it +is said that the former made an irruption and settled in the northern +parts as early as the seventh or eighth century, and the Arabs three or +four centuries subsequently to that era, there does not appear at this +time to be the least difference in the persons or manners of the whole. +At whatever period they crossed the desert, however, it is certain that +the wild and fanatical religion of Mohammed accompanied them, and that +they preached it with zeal and energy amongst the natives, making +innumerable converts to the new and strange doctrine. + +The Arabs in Houssa and other parts have, unhappily, lost all trace of +their ancient splendour, as well as the characteristic features of their +countrymen. Like the Jews in Barbary, monopolize not only all the trade, +but likewise all the money concerns of the state and people; +degenerating from a restless, but high-minded and imaginative race, to +the vilest and most grovelling on the face of the earth. They pluck the +ignorant and superstitious aborigines of their substance with impunity, +and perpetrate the most revolting crimes for the bare love of gain. Some +of them are observed straggling from one end of the African continent to +the other, practising, like wandering quacks, the most shameful +impositions in the different towns and villages through which they may +happen to pass. An Arab mallam selling the small balls of tin to a +native chief, which has been already mentioned, is a proof of this; and +hundreds of other examples might be adduced, if necessary, as a further +corroboration of the truth of my assertion. They also tell fortunes, and +by various incantations pretend to discover the authors of robberies or +mischief of any kind that may have been effected. Some again remain +stationary in cities and in courts, ever ready to take advantage of +circumstances to cheat and embezzle, and to enrich themselves at the +expense of the prince or the public; and, although they are so numerous +in the interior, I do not believe there exists half a dozen honest men +amongst them. Unacquainted with the brilliant achievements that shed so +rich a lustre over his earlier history, the Arab of the internal +districts of Africa ceases to retain the politeness, the gallantry, the +lofty enthusiasm, and the love for the fine arts, which distinguished +his ancestors under the Califs; and even the desire of collecting and +preserving Arabic manuscripts, which for a long time prevailed amongst +his countrymen, is now wholly extinct. Intolerant and bigoted in their +religious principles, the Arabs look with invincible contempt on all +those differing from them in opinion; and their dislike to Christians in +particular is inveterate and deeply-rooted. They did their utmost to +prejudice the minds of the rulers as well as the _canaille_ of Africa +against us, by propagating the most unfavourable rumours of our +character and our motives; and partially succeeded in convincing them +that we were either spies or robbers; insomuch that the term “Christian” +became in disrepute with a large portion of all ranks, and a watchword +for reproaches and indignities of every description. Jealous and +malevolent, and fearful that through our means the great fabric of +imposture they had reared with so much facility on the basis of +superstition would be overthrown, as well as their lucrative trade with +the natives ruined, they watched all our actions with distrust and +alarm; and although they covered their faces with smiles on visiting us, +or on accosting us in the streets, those looks of kindness were put on +only to lull us into a security, and to impress us with the belief that +they were our best friends. Their relentless malice at length displayed +itself; for by repeatedly throwing out indirect insinuations on our +integrity in the hearing of Sultan Bello, these Arabs succeeded in +undermining our reputation in the eyes of that monarch; the consequences +of which hastened the death of my valued master, together with the +failure of the African Mission—for, to the perfidious endeavours of +those scoundrels I must attribute our detention in Soccatoo, and all the +misfortunes which attended that restraint. + + + THE FALATAHS. + + +The Falatahs, as a people, are perhaps not less extraordinary than the +Arabs, whom they formerly resembled in their unsettled, wandering +habits, and simple manners. No one can tell their origin, from what +country they at first emigrated, or to what extent they have scattered +themselves. They have overrun the continent from east to west, and are +found tending their flocks and herds near the sea, and warring with +success in the interior: some of them profess the Mohammedan religion, +and some worship stocks and stones; but all speak the same language, and +have the same ceremonies and amusements. The negroes who have travelled +farthest have declared to me that Falatahs are every where to be met +with, seldom mixing with the owners of the soil; but, like the gipsies +of Europe, keeping themselves a peculiar and distinct people. + +When I was at Graham’s Town, Cape of Good Hope, in 1824, two copper- +coloured men, who had incautiously separated themselves from their +companions, were found wandering in the woods in the vicinity of the +place, and brought into it by a body of Caffres; they excited at the +time a great deal of curiosity, and conjecture was afloat as to what +particular nation they could have belonged to. For my part, from what I +now know, I have every reason for believing that those very men were +Falatahs; and I have a strong persuasion within my own breast that the +tribe called in Southern Africa the _Red_ Caffre, and the Falatah of the +eastern and central parts, are one and the same people! I do not affirm +that they _are_ actually the same; I only state it as my decided +conviction that they have sprung from one common source. I know nothing +of the language of the Red Caffre, but he certainly does not differ from +the Falatah in personal appearance; and by all accounts the manners, +customs, and ceremonies of both are precisely the same. It would be a +truly magnificent undertaking to traverse the unexplored regions between +Leetakoo and the (so called) Mountains of the Moon; and every way worthy +the courage and enterprise of an Englishman. I really believe that a +person acquainted with the genius and usages of the natives, and +possessing a persevering, undaunted spirit, with an unruffled temper, +would find no insurmountable difficulties against accomplishing this +object, stupendous as it may at first appear; he might soon and easily +accommodate himself to the manners of the Africans, which are generally +mild and simple, and do not differ, in many very essential points, from +the Cape to Bornou; and leaving gradually, and almost imperceptibly, the +healthy for the insalubrious climates, his frame would be prepared, by +such degrees, to encounter the transition. + +At one time the Falatahs never resided in towns, but rambled, with their +flocks and herds, from place to place, as pasturage and water might +invite their steps. They journeyed in companies, having no particular +chief, or regular form of government; and their numbers were at first +too contemptible to excite the notice, still less the fears, of the +aborigines. Into Houssa they stole insensibly by “ones and twos,” and +finding that fertile and beautiful country much to their liking, they +took up a permanent abode in the woods at no great distance from the +spot on which Soccatoo now stands. + +By some secret intelligence or correspondence, hordes of their +straggling countrymen soon gathered around them, and they at length +built a town in the province of Goober, in Houssa, and chose for +themselves a chief, named Danfodio. This man was well versed in the +religion of Mohammed, and had derived from the figurative language and +splendid diction of the Koran, a visionary and romantic turn of mind, +which prompted him to undertake novel and daring exploits, not unworthy +that great legislator whose work he had so intently studied. He began at +first to meddle with the polity of the ruling prince of Goober, and +adopted the language of dictation to that imbecile monarch, which not +being altogether agreeable to the royal mind, the newly built Falatah +town was levelled with the dust, and the chief himself, with all his +people, driven out of the country into the woods, wherein they erected +another town; and the Falatahs from the east and west flocked, in +considerable numbers, to the standard of their countryman. Finding his +strength daily and hourly increasing, Danfodio divided his men into +bands, or companies, and nominating a captain to each fifty, bade them +go forth and conquer in the name of the Prophet, for that God had given +them the lands and houses of the natives. He also embraced the +opportunity of impressing upon the minds of the leaders, with admirable +eloquence, the most prominent features of the religion they professed; +and artfully insinuated the exalted and unfading happiness which those +who fell in the cause of Mohammed would be entitled to in the other +world. The captains, filled with ardour and enthusiasm, found little +difficulty in the accomplishment of the task imposed upon them by their +crafty leader. With a handful of men the flourishing and important city +of Kano was taken and pillaged; and other parties overran the country +and subjugated the people, telling them that the Almighty had given them +their possessions for an inheritance; and that they themselves, with +their offspring, must ever after be their slaves and bondsmen. The +stupid natives were palsied with fear, and understanding little or +nothing of the Koran, knew not what to think of the strange doctrines of +the Prophet sprung up so suddenly and unexpectedly amongst them. +Danfodio’s pretensions, therefore, were seldom disputed; the Houssans +have often declared to me that the strength and inclination to “shake +the spear!” were denied them; they had no will of their own,—their hands +fell powerless by their sides, and they felt as if they had been touched +by the finger of a god, or were under the influence of an eastern +talisman. Abandoning their wives and children to the mercy of the +invaders, they consented to lose their liberty, and fell, like “silly +sheep,” into the snare that had been laid for them with so little art; +not even attempting to struggle with their oppressors; or if so, making +efforts as puny and ineffectual as the fluttering of a fly in a spider’s +web. Of all the provinces in Houssa, Goober alone made a show of +resistance; its monarch invested Danfodio in his own town, but being +repulsed with loss, made a precipitate retreat to Coonia, the capital of +his kingdom. He was pursued thither with slaughter by the Falatahs, who, +in their turn, surrounded his town, and succeeded in slaying him in a +sally, when the inhabitants, deprived of a leader, immediately +capitulated, and bowed their necks to the yoke of the Falatah chieftain. +All Houssa was now in subjection; Bornou was attacked with success; the +dynasty of that ancient kingdom tottered to its foundation, and its +monarch trembled on his throne. The Falatahs pushed their almost +bloodless conquests to Nyffé, and conquering part of that country with +the whole of Cubbé and Youri, had the audacity to enter Katunga, the +metropolis of Yariba, which being an idolatrous city, was set on fire; +but the inhabitants, recovering from the panic into which they had been +so suddenly thrown, rallied, and turning upon the incendiaries, +compelled them to make a precipitate, and disgraceful retreat. For some +reason, which I could never exactly comprehend, Danfodio hastily +recalled his victorious soldiers, and concentrating his power in Houssa, +founded the city of Soccatoo, somewhere about the year 1798, which he +resolved should be the metropolis of his usurped empire. Here he lived +in peace for many years, uniting in his own person, like his celebrated +prototype, the sacerdotal and kingly offices; and ruled his people with +candour, equity, and justice. As soon as the Arabs were made acquainted +with these sudden and important changes, they hastened, with well-timed +speed, to do homage to the success of his arms and the wisdom of his +councils; and ingratiated themselves so effectually into the favour of +the conqueror, by flattering his self-love with artful and well-directed +encomiums, that he loaded them with benefits, and intreated them to +remain for ever in his newly-acquired territory. He also presented them +with horned cattle, camels, and slaves, and offered them the most +fertile lands in Houssa, if they would consent to teach his subjects to +read the Koran, and give them an acquaintance with the Arabic language +and literature. + +In the midst of these proceedings, the terrible Danfodio, at whose name +thousands of negroes trembled, became religiously mad, and was often +seized with paroxysms of remorse, for having erected a throne, by the +shedding of so much Mussulman blood. In his lucid intervals, a +melancholy preyed upon his mind, and he delivered his conscience into +the hands of the Arab emirs who surrounded him. These hungry and +insatiable adventurers plied the fanatical prince unceasingly for more +valuable presents, as the only means of appeasing the wrath of offended +Heaven; in which object they were eminently successful; but this failed +in alleviating the malady that afflicted Danfodio, and he expired in +great anguish in one of his fits about the year 1816, to the infinite +joy of his conquered subjects, and the sincere regret of the interested +Arabs, and the aspiring Falatahs. Amongst all people, however, he bore +the reputation of being one of the most extraordinary men that had ever +existed in the interior of Africa; and his enterprizing spirit, artful +stratagems, and perfect acquaintance with the African character, which +the whole tenor of his conduct evinces, show that the honor he had +acquired was not founded on popular clamour, or national prejudice; but +that his mind was greatly superior to those of the semi-barbarians that +surrounded him. He had made great and important changes in the laws and +government of the people he had subjugated to his sway, and created on +the ruins of the most flourishing and beautiful kingdom in the interior, +a new dynasty which is likely to become, in time, the most formidable +power in the whole continent. + +Mohammed Bello, the present Sultan, and eldest son of Danfodio, ascended +the throne, by the unanimous voice of the Falatahs, shortly after his +father’s decease; but the government of the conquered territory to the +westward of Houssa, was awarded to Mohammed Ben Abdallah, his cousin. +Atego, a younger brother of Bello, attempted to raise a rebellion in +furtherance of his own ambitious projects in opposition to the rightful +heir, but being completely defeated in a pitched battle, by the +partizans of Bello, was taken prisoner, and liberated after a year’s +imprisonment in a common dungeon. He is now on a friendly footing with +his brother, but is a contemptible fellow, and appears to have sunk the +dignity of the prince in the meanness of the man. + +On receiving intelligence of the death of the Sultan of the Falatahs, +the people of Goober, and many of those of the other conquered +provinces, impatient of the galling yoke which they had been compelled, +much against their own inclinations, to bear, rose simultaneously into +an open and general revolt, and put to death, indiscriminately, every +Falatah that had located himself in their country. Then, forming +themselves into a confederacy, with a variety of leaders at their head, +they for a long time waged an exterminating war with the successor of +Danfodio; but their movements being unconnected and irregular, and +anarchy having the ascendancy in their councils, Bello had reconquered +several of the mutinous districts at the period of our arrival, and made +a great slaughter of the miserable inhabitants. The towns whose gates +were not instantly opened to their summons, the Falatahs surrounded, and +intercepting all communication between the people residing in them and +those of the neighbouring country, prevented any provisions being +obtained by the besieged, and in a manner starved them into +capitulation. The insurgents had made, however, for Africans, a gallant +defence; and well knowing what they had to expect from their sanguinary +adversaries, would not surrender till all their domestic animals had +been consumed, and they themselves reduced to the extremity of feeding +on decoyed vultures, which, next to human flesh, they most cordially +abhor. Having obliged them at length to open the gates, the Falatahs +rushed in, and pouncing upon the emaciated and unresisting inhabitants, +made dreadful havoc of them, putting the old men and councillors to the +edge of the sword; thrusting a sharp stake into their bodies, and +exhibiting them on the tops of the walls and other conspicuous places, +as melancholy trophies of their success, and as a spectacle of horror +for their shuddering countrymen to profit by. In this situation the +ghastly corpses were exposed, till they had fallen to pieces by the +action of the air, or been devoured by birds of prey. The old women, and +young people of both sexes, who had escaped the general massacre, were +driven in triumph to Soccatoo, and retained as slaves by their imperious +conquerors. This was the dismal fate of the inhabitants of Coonia, the +capital of Goober, the prince of which country, named Doncasson, with +other young men, laboured as a slave till a year or two before Captain +Clapperton’s first arrival at Soccatoo, (about 1822,) when, effecting +his escape, with the most determined of his countrymen, he was elected +their captain, and being joined by numbers of the disaffected, marched +forthwith to the metropolis of the kingdom of his ancestors, and +vigorously assaulting it by surprise, the Falatahs, in their turn, after +a short and ineffectual resistance, surrendered to the infuriated +Gooberites. + +The merciless Doncasson retaliated upon the inhabitants the dreadful +cruelties which they had so inhumanly inflicted upon his countrymen not +long before; in addition to which, the left hand of every young woman in +the town, in spite of their cries and tears, was amputated; after which, +being set at liberty, they returned with their mutilated bleeding +members, to Soccatoo. I saw several of the unfortunate creatures in that +city who had undergone this barbarous operation; the hand had been cut +off at the wrist, and the wound being left to nature for a cure, several +of the young women had bled to death on the road. + +Sultan Bello meantime had not been an unconcerned or inactive spectator +of the exploit of Doncasson; he immediately assembled a strong force, +and made repeated attacks on Coonia, but was repulsed with loss in all +his attempts. The belligerents likewise fought two pitched battles, in +which the Falatahs were discomfited, and their Sultan wounded by a +poisoned arrow; by this means the Falatahs were no longer considered as +invincible by the original natives; and, foiled in all their manœuvres, +they returned crest-fallen and defeated to Soccatoo. Bello soon +recovered from the effects of his wound, but was ever after so +excessively afraid of the _Towayahs_, as Doncasson’s followers were +called, that, unless protected by a strong escort, neither he nor his +people dared to venture near their territories. + +The Gooberites, at the period of my departure from Soccatoo, had +received a considerable reinforcement of cavalry from the Sheikh of +Bornou, and were daily becoming stronger and more formidable to the +Falatahs. Numerous bands of their young men infested the Goober, or +_Gondamie_ “bush,” through which the road to Kano lay. Here they hid +themselves in caves and unfrequented places; but on receiving +intelligence from their scouts of the approach of a body of the enemy, +less powerful than themselves, they would suddenly emerge from their +concealment, and springing upon the ill-fated Falatahs, generally +contrived to capture or destroy them. Hence the rapidity with which we +travelled through the dreaded bush—a rapidity that, in one instance, had +nearly cost me my life; and hence the exclamation of “O, the Goober +Bush!” so general amongst the Falatahs. + + + WAR WITH BORNOU. + + +The war between the Bornouese and Falatahs, which has been already +mentioned as raging at the time of our arrival in Kano, and which had +caused the Arabs in that city great uneasiness, originated from the +following cause:—A famine having impoverished the natives of the former +country, and threatened them with utter destruction, the Sheikh sent a +number of handsome horses, for which his kingdom is celebrated, as +presents to the Governor of Kano, and the chiefs of other Falatah towns. +The animals were delivered to the care of the ambassadors, who depicted +to the receivers of them, in lively colours, the destitute condition of +the people of Bornou; and intimated a wish that the Falatahs would +relieve their wants, by returning as much corn and other provisions as +they could readily spare, without putting themselves to an +inconvenience. The custom of giving and receiving presents is of very +ancient standing in Africa, and sanctioned by universal adoption. +Instead of acceding to the reasonable desires of the Ruler of Bornou, +the Chiefs of all the towns, excepting the Governor of Kano, kept indeed +the horses, but followed the example of many rude nations of antiquity, +as well as that of more modern times[1] and sent back the ambassadors to +their monarch, with bundles of sharp-pointed spears, hinting by these +hieroglyphics, that if the Sheikh wanted corn, he was to come and fight +for it. The Governor of Kano, however, went even a step beyond this, for +he not only retained the horses sent him, but bound the unsuspecting +ambassadors hand and foot, and taking them to the market-place, the +pitiless Falatah publicly butchered them in cold blood. The consummation +of this atrocious act, to which I was myself a spectator, elicited a +universal murmur of disapprobation from the slaves, who form by far the +major part of the inhabitants of the city; and it was generally feared, +from their deep but not loud execrations, that they would have risen +into open revolt, and revenged the murder of the Bornouese, by wreaking +their vengeance on the head of the perpetrator of the abominable crime. +This effervescence of the public mind, nevertheless, had subsided at the +period of my departure for Soccatoo, without producing any of the +effects so much dreaded by the free population of Kano; and the +recollection of the revolting and sanguinary action of the Governor was +swallowed up in other and more important incidents. + +As soon as the news of this melancholy catastrophe reached the ears of +the Sheikh of Bornou, who was then at Kouka, the capital of his empire, +he was so violently exasperated, that he swore by the Prophet he would +have an immediate and ample revenge of the Falatahs for the insult they +had offered him; and for this purpose, instantly assembling a numerous +and powerful army, he hastened to chastise his relentless enemies. The +inhabitants of every Falatah town opened their gates to the Sheikh till +he reached Murmur, (the place in which Dr. Oudney died and was buried by +my lamented master, in the former journey,) where the people who refused +to follow the example set them by their countrymen; and prepared to +defend themselves to the last extremity. The Bornouese, being unwilling +to lose so much time as the investment of the town, in a formal manner, +would inevitably occasion, contrived to ensnare a number of vultures, by +baiting a crooked bit of iron, sharpened at the extremity, and +resembling in shape a small sized English fish-hook, with pieces of +putrid beef. These instruments, to which a long string was attached, +were eagerly seized by those voracious birds, which by this means were +caught with little difficulty. The soldiers of the Sheikh had no sooner +obtained as many as they fancied would be necessary, by this stratagem, +than they tied pieces of burning cotton to the claws or tails of the +vultures, and so set them at liberty. The affrighted birds instantly +flew into the town, and alighting on the thatch of the dwellings, of +course set them on fire, and a general conflagration was the almost +immediate consequence. + +This unlooked for calamity distracted the attention of the besieged; and +all flew to arrest the progress of the flames, and to snatch their +children from their burning habitations; whilst the Bornouese, taking +advantage of the general consternation that prevailed in the town, made +a sudden rush on the massy gates or doors, (which are made of the bark +of the date tree, fastened and strengthened with iron clasps,) and so +desperate was the assault, that in less than a minute’s time they had +entered the place, and were engaged in their work of death and slaughter +amongst the inhabitants. + +The infuriated Bornouese pursued their way through the burning streets, +amidst the crackling huts of the people, and the general devastation and +ruin—respecting neither party, but frequently overwhelming both +themselves and their enemies in one common destruction. The male +Falatahs were marked out as peculiar objects of the vengeance of the +victorious troops, one only escaping to tell the dismal tale to his +countrymen; but not yet satiated with blood, the pagan soldiers in the +army of the Sheikh captured all the unoffending females who were running +about in every direction, with their offspring in their arms, or on +their breasts; and, as with the Gooberites, after amputating one of +their hands, ejected them from their town, snatched their children from +their embraces, and compelled the poor creatures to wander without +protection, and almost dead with grief and intense suffering, to other +towns and villages, before arriving at which many of them were released +by death. + +Several other Falatah towns were treated in a similar dreadful manner by +the Bornouese, who marched hastily towards Kano; but when about a day’s +journey from that city, were intercepted by the troops of the king of +Jacoba, and other allies of Bello, and coming to an engagement, the +latter were utterly routed by the Sheikh, after a short but sanguinary +contest. The Bornouese obtained immense booty by this victory, and on +drawing near the walls of Kano, the governor went out to meet them with +the joint forces of that city and the province of Zeg Zeg, when the +Falatahs again suffered a mortifying defeat, and were obliged to flee +back into Kano, the immense wall of which, with its ponderous doors, +alone prevented the victorious Sheikh, flushed with success, and glutted +with revenge, from following them into the town, and annihilating every +soul; in which he would undoubtedly have been assisted by the murmuring +slaves. + +Bello, meantime, was gathering together an immense army to attack the +Sheikh, who, being made acquainted with the circumstance, in order more +effectually to secure the booty he had already required, having +fulfilled to the letter his terrible denunciation on the insolent +Falatahs, thought proper to raise the siege of Kano, and return to his +own kingdom, laden with provisions and spoil; nor did the Gooberites +leave it in the power of Bello to make reprisals on his triumphant +adversaries; so that they were suffered to retreat unmolested to Bornou. + +The old coffee-pot, tent, and drum, which the disappointed Falatahs +boasted, amongst other things, they had captured from the Bornouese, and +which were publicly exhibited as trophies of a victory they had never +won, were owned, the day before I left Soccatoo, by the discomfited king +of Jacoba, as his property, and restored to that monarch immediately. +The prince informed me that the soldiers of the Sheikh were so loaded +with articles of greater value, that they did not think it worth while +to have the trouble of conveying an old worn-out tent, coffee-pot, &c. +to Bornou, and therefore left them behind for the use of their +opponents. + +I could hardly forbear laughing to see the animosity which the Falatahs +evinced against the unconscious coffee-pot, and the dreadful punishments +they inflicted upon it, on all occasions, as if this inanimate vessel +could satisfy their thirst for vengeance on their enemies. I have heard +of boys in England, during the period of the war with France, +desperately lopping off the tops of thistles with a walking-stick, and +exclaiming, with appropriate gesticulation, “Oh, if you were Frenchmen, +we would behead you in this manner!” The expression of the Falatah, with +regard to the coffee-pot, was very similar. I have seen him lift his +spear in a transport of rage, and while his eyes flashed fire, cry out +with dreadful vehemence: “Oh, if you were the Sheikh of Bornou, thus +would I pierce your vile body!” accompanying his words and gesture by +making, with all the fury of excitement and disappointed revenge, a +valorous thrust at the ill-used breakfast-preparer of the king of +Jacoba. When it came to be understood, however, that the coffee-pot did +not actually belong to the Bornouese monarch, but was the property of +one of their most faithful allies, they were overwhelmed with shame and +chagrin; but hushed up the matter as well as they were able, vowing, +that as soon as the Gooberites should give them a short respite, they +would be amply revenged on their spirited and successful antagonists. + + + WAR WITH FUNDAH. + + +Fundah was described to me as being a large and populous city, the +capital of a kingdom of the same name, and situated on the banks of the +Niger. It is defended by a high wall, except the part facing the sea; +and canoes are continually plying up and down the river, between the +town and the bight of Benin. The inhabitants, having received a quantity +of European fire-arms from the coast by this water-conveyance, no sooner +heard of the Falatah conquests, than they perforated the wall of Fundah +with innumerable little holes, barely large enough to admit the barrels +of muskets, and light for the soldiers to distinguish objects without. +The city never was invested in Danfodio’s time, that prince wisely +contenting himself with the subjection of Houssa, &c.; but Bello, his +successor, having cast an envious eye on so rich and flourishing a +kingdom, had long premeditated the conquest of dominions that lay so +near and so commodious for the accomplishment of his ambitious views; +and attempted to carry his well-matured design into execution a few +weeks only after Captain Clapperton had quitted Soccatoo on his former +journey (1824). + +The Sultan accordingly, assembling all his forces, marched with a +formidable army towards the devoted Fundah; and halting about a half +mile from that city, sent the following singular and characteristic +message to the king:— + + + BELLO’S MESSAGE. + +“Ruler of Fundah! deliver up your country, your riches, your people, and +your slaves, to the beloved of God, Mohammed Bello, king of all the +Mussulmans, without reluctance on your part; for if you do not suffer +him quietly and peaceably to take possession of your kingdom, in order +to propagate the religion of the only true Prophet in it, he will shed +your blood, and the blood of your children, and the blood of your +household; not one shall be left alive: while your people he will bind +with fetters of iron, to be his slaves and bondsmen for ever—God having +so spoken by the mouth of Mohammed!” + + + KING OF FUNDAH’S ANSWER. + +“Sultan of the Falatahs! The king of Fundah does not know you or your +Prophet; he laughs your boastings to scorn, and despises your impotent +threats. Go back to your country, and live in peace with your people; +for if you persist in the foolish attempt to invade his dominions, you +will surely fall by his hands; and instead of his or his subjects being +your vassals and bondsmen,—your slaves shall be his slaves, and your +people his people. Your chiefs and warriors, and mighty men, will he +slaughter without mercy, and their blood shall be sprinkled on the walls +of his town; while even your mallams and emirs will he thrust through +with spears, and cast their bodies into the woods, to be devoured by +lions and birds of prey!” + +This insulting and contemptuous message to the beloved of God, the high- +minded Bello, irritated the choler of the Falatah monarch to so great a +degree, that he immediately ordered his cavalry to advance to the very +walls of Fundah; and the conquest of that important city was already +effected in his imagination;—the glory and fame he was about to acquire +filled him with pride of heart, and the brightest visions of +aggrandizement floated in his fancy. The cavalry were dressed in flowing +white tobes; and as they drew near, the mallams, preceding the horse, +read aloud sentences from the Koran, as they were wont to do, till, +approaching within a few yards of the fatal wall, they made a +simultaneous pause for the infantry to come up. The mallans then +embraced the opportunity of reading a few Mohammedan prayers in Arabic, +which no one understood or cared about; and the army unconcernedly +prepared to make the attack. They were quite easy as to the result of +it; and contrary to the solemnity of the Moslam character, laughed, +joked, and made merry amongst themselves, playing all manner of antics, +just like a fool shaking his bells before the mouth of a cannon about to +sweep him to destruction. + +Meanwhile the king of Fundah had not been idle. Anticipating what was +actually taking place, he had prepared to meet the shock of his powerful +antagonist by every means that could be devised in so pressing an +emergency, rallying the drooping spirits of his people, and dissipating +the dread that even the _sound_ of the Falatah name could not fail of +inspiring. The apertures already mentioned as being formed in the wall, +the prince caused to be filled with muskets; and placing a soldier at +each, watched attentively the motions and advances of his enemies. He +waited till, as it has already been remarked, the foe, by a strange +indifference, began to play the fool almost close to the walls. Another +moment—and a thousand Falatah jaws were extended to shout the war-cry of +their countrymen, “Allah Ackbar!” previously to making the premeditated +assault; but before they had uttered the first syllable of the sentence, +their mouths were suddenly closed by the salute of a volley of musketry +from the fatal wall, which did dreadful execution amongst them. Hardly +knowing what to make of this rough and ungracious reception, so entirely +different from what they had ever before experienced, they were +petrified to the spot, and could neither fly, nor prosecute the assault +against the town; but kept their stupid eyes foolishly staring into each +other’s countenance, as if to ask the meaning of what had taken place. + +Whilst the Falatahs were in this state of horrid suspense, and before +they could have time to recover their presence of mind, another well- +directed discharge of fire-arms from the holes in the wall, completed +the general consternation, broke the charm that had bound them to the +soil, and away scampered the heroic Mohammedans in all directions—Bello, +the beloved of God, and king of all the Mussulmans! being the first to +set them the example. At that instant the men of Fundah, rushing from +the gates, accelerated the flight of the invaders, who were terror- +stricken on hearing the war-cry of their pursuers, a loud, wild yell, +close at their heels; many of them were killed, and many taken +prisoners, not one of them daring to make the shadow of resistance, or +even venturing to look behind him. Being loaded with booty, the +successful people of Fundah discontinued the carnage, and returned in +triumph to their city. + +In this disastrous affair, the Falatahs left five hundred of their best +troops dead on the field, besides a vast number of prisoners and +wounded; two hundred of the finest horses in their empire also fell into +the hands of the conquerors, so that the threat of the Fundah monarch +was more than partially accomplished. This, in African warfare, was +considered as a sanguinary contest: indeed Bello himself was so severely +humbled at the decisive and signal overthrow, that, for a long season +afterwards, he was ashamed to show himself to his people. What surprised +the Falatahs and their prince was the death of so many mallams, who, +being placed in front of the horsemen, were consequently more exposed to +the fire of the enemy, and the first victims to the Fundah musketry; but +the greatest wonder of all was the loss of an Arab emir, who received +two shots in his breast, and fell dead from the side of the sultan. +These men were supposed to have a charmed life, and in all probability +believed themselves that they were invulnerable; but the result proved +on what a fragile tenure they had held their pretensions to +impenetrability, and opened, in some measure, the eyes of the multitude +to their abominable deceptions. + +The preceding information was first furnished to me by the king of +Jacoba; and afterwards corroborated in all its particulars by Mohammed, +a Houssa man, and servant of mine, who accompanied me to Dunrora. He had +been himself a spectator of the bloody scene he described; and fought +with the cavalry in the Falatah army, in their memorable exploit before +the walls of Fundah. + +Bello, it was asserted, would not risk the dangers of a second campaign, +the first having given him a _quietus_, which, it was generally +believed, would effectually damp his ardour for conquest during his +lifetime. The Falatahs, a proud, conceited people, and excessively vain +of their national spirit, carefully exclude from their conversation even +an allusion to a defeat; whilst their victories are always made the most +of, and repeated a thousand times in every company. + +The great eagerness and anxiety which Bello displayed on Captain +Clapperton’s former visit to Soccatoo, to maintain a friendly +intercourse with the English nation, arose undoubtedly from the +expectation, that by the assistance he should derive by that means, he +would find little difficulty in overcoming his enemies: a universal +despotism which he had attempted, singly and unprotected, to erect over +the minds and persons of every Pagan nation in the interior, being a +desideratum with him, towards the accomplishment of which his thoughts +and actions were unceasingly directed. + + + FOOD OF THE NATIVES. + + +In Houssa, and, generally speaking, in every country in the interior +(except Yariba), the natives have but two meals a-day, one before +sunrise, and the other after sun-set. The breakfast of the higher +classes consists either of rice and milk, or flour and milk, boiled with +honey, and butter manufactured from cow’s milk. The supper, which is +considered the principal meal, is made of a small quantity of meat +stewed in butter, and poured over a bowl of tuah. Poorer people +breakfast on flour and water only; and their evening’s repast is +composed simply of flour boiled in water till it attains the consistence +of pudding, seasoned with a sauce made from a certain herb, which to the +palate of an European would be most disgusting stuff indeed. With this, +however, they are perfectly contented; and, indeed they are infinitely +happier than the same class of people in Europe. + + + + + CHAPTER XI. + + * * * * * + +The Author resumes his Narrative — African huts — Recreations and +evening amusements of his Master and himself — Illness of Captain +Clapperton — His sufferings — Perfect resignation under them — His death +— Burial — Character. + + +My master and myself enjoyed tolerable health for some weeks after my +arrival in Soccatoo, I say _tolerable_, for _perfect_ health we felt not +even a single day in Africa. We variously employed our leisure hours as +inclination or circumstances might guide our choice. We each went +a-shooting repeatedly: this was Captain Clapperton’s favourite +amusement, and almost the only out-of-door exercise he was at all eager +to cultivate. He frequently went out with his gun at an early hour in +the morning, and returned not till the evening was pretty far advanced. +On all of these occasions the Captain was dressed in the costume of the +country, which consisted, besides other articles, of a large, flowing +tobe, and a red cap with a white muslin turban: the tobe was confined to +his waist by a broad belt, in which a brace of pistols and a short +dagger were stuck;—thus accoutred, my master looked more like a mountain +robber setting out on a predatory excursion, than a British naval +officer. His beard, also, which he had permitted quietly to grow, had +undisputed possession of his chin, and was of a truly patriarchal +length, extending even below his breast. This imparted to his +countenance a venerable expression, and to his general appearance a +degree of dignity, that excited the envy and admiration of the Arabs and +Falatahs, who attach great importance to large bushy beards, which they +all strive to obtain by various means. + +The hut in which we resided was a round building, about thirty yards in +circumference, having so small an entrance that we were obliged to stoop +on going into it, and its appearance very much resembled an immense bee- +hive. It had no window or other aperture whatever, besides the door-way +already alluded to, so that light was admitted only from that channel; +and the heat of the apartment was from the same cause rendered almost +insupportable, being nearly ten degrees higher than in the shade +outside. The hut was inclosed in a square yard, at one end of which the +horses were confined, and the camels at another; and sheds were erected +close to it, as sleeping apartments for the servants and slaves. + +For the erection of the walls of their huts, the natives use clay and +earth, without hair, or any other substance. The mortar is made into +round masses, somewhat larger than a skittleball, which being dried and +hardened in the sun, are fit for use, and placed in tiers like bricks in +England. As soon as the walls are raised to the usual height, the roof +is constructed and placed on them; and the interstices between the tiers +of balls and the balls themselves being filled up with moistened clay, +the whole surface is plastered over with the same material by the hands +of the workman, which, like the tail of the beaver, is his only tool, +and the hut is then fit to be inhabited. + + * * * * * + +Before retiring to rest of an evening, cigars we had brought from +England with us were generally produced; and we inhaled their grateful +fragrance oftentimes for an hour or two. This was the only luxury left +us; our tea and sugar had been consumed long before, and we fared in +every respect like the Falatahs themselves. Squatted on mats in our +huts, we spent the lingering hours in reading aloud, or chatting of our +respective homes, and reciting village anecdotes; and it is really +incredible to believe to what a ridiculous consequence the most trivial +incident in the world was magnified in these our solitary conversations; +and how often we laughed at jests which had been laughed at a thousand +times before. But this can only be felt in an equal degree by persons +similarly circumstanced with ourselves; every other avenue to enjoyment +had been effectually blocked up; nor could we derive any pleasure from +the society of the treacherous Arab or interested Falatah. + +Sometimes, although neither of us was gifted with a voice of much power +or compass, we attempted to sing a few English or Scotch tunes; and +sometimes I played others on my buglehorn. How often have the pleasing +strains of “Sweet, sweet Home,” resounded through the melancholy streets +of Soccatoo? How often have its inhabitants listened with breathless +attention to the music of the white-faced strangers? and observed to +each other, as they went away, “Surely those Christians are sending a +blessing to their country and friends!” Any thing that reminded my +master of his native Scotland was always heard with interest and +emotion. The little poem, “My native Highland home,” I have sung scores +of times to him, as he has sat with his arms folded on his breast +opposite to me in our dwelling; and notwithstanding his masculine +understanding, and boasted strength of nerve, the Captain used to be +somewhat moved on listening to the lines: + + + “Then gang wi’ me to Scotland dear, + + We ne’er again will roam; + + And with thy smile, so bonny, cheer + + My native Highland home! + + + “For blithsome is the breath of day, + + And sweet ’s the bonny broom, + + And pure the dimpling rills that play + + Around my Highland home.” + + +Thus our lonely evenings were spent; and when the time, the place, and +the thousand other circumstances, are considered, the puerility of our +amusements may surely be pardoned us. Such entertainments could not fail +of awakening melancholy but pleasing associations within us; and to +picture to our imaginations when in the bosom of Africa, and surrounded +by wretches who sought our destruction, our own free and happy country, +its heathy hills and flowery fields, and contrast them with the +withering aspect of existing scenes, afforded us many an hour of delight +and sorrow, gladness and gloom—although filling us with hopes that +proved delusive, and expectations that we found, by fatal experience, to +be in the highest degree visionary;—for, like the beautiful apple said +to grow on the borders of the Red Sea, our hopes wore a fair and +promising outside, but produced only bitter ashes. + +For two months our manner of living and occupation were nearly unvaried. +The Sheikh of Bornou had entered Houssa, during this period, with a +multitude of men, and was reported to have laid siege to Kano, after the +fall of which city he was to march to Soccatoo. This news terrified the +inhabitants of the latter place to so great a degree, that every +individual of consequence in it fled to the more secure and remote town +of Magaria; and we were obliged to follow their example; but, events not +turning out agreeably to anticipation, we returned to Soccatoo in about +a week or fortnight afterwards. + +On the 12th of March all thoughts of further enjoyment ceased, through +the sudden illness of my dear kind master, who was attacked with +dysentery on that day. He had been almost insensibly declining for a +week or two previously, but without the slightest symptoms of this +frightful malady. From the moment he was first taken ill, Captain +Clapperton perspired freely, large drops of sweat continually rolling +over every part of his body, which weakened him exceedingly; and, being +unable to obtain any one, even of our own servants, to assist, I was +obliged to wash the clothes, kindle and keep in the fire, and prepare +the victuals with my own hands. Owing to the intense heat, my master was +frequently fanned for hours together: indeed, all my leisure moments +were devoted to this tedious occupation; and I have often held the fan +till, from excessive weakness, it has fallen from my grasp. + +Finding that, from increasing debility, I was unable to pay that +unremitting attention to the numerous wants of the invalid which his +melancholy state so peculiarly demanded, I sent to mallam Mudey on the +15th, entreating him to lend me a female slave to perform the operation +of fanning. On her arrival the girl began her work with alacrity and +cheerfulness; but soon becoming weary of her task, ran away, and never +returned to our hut. I was therefore obliged to resume it myself; and, +regardless of personal inconvenience and fatigue, strained every nerve, +in order to alleviate, as much as possible, the sufferings occasioned by +this painful disorder. My master daily grew weaker, and suffered +severely from the intolerable heat of the atmosphere, the thermometer +being, in the coolest place, 107 at twelve at noon, and 109 at three in +the afternoon. + +At his own suggestion I made a couch for him outside our dwelling, in +the shade, and placed a mat for myself by its side. For five successive +days I took him in my arms from his bed to the couch outside, and back +again at sunset, after which he was too much debilitated to encounter +even so trifling an exertion. He expressed a wish to write once, and but +once, during his illness, but before paper and ink could be handed to +him, he had fallen back on his bed, completely exhausted by his +ineffectual attempt to sit up. + +Fancying by certain suspicious symptoms, that my sick master had +inadvertently taken poison, I asked him one day whether he thought that +in any of his visits to the Arabs or Tuaricks in the city, any venomous +ingredient had been secretly put into the camel’s milk they had given +him to drink, of which he was particularly fond. He replied, “No, my +dear boy, no such thing has been done, I assure you. Do you remember,” +he continued, “that when on a shooting excursion in Magaria, in the +early part of February, after walking the whole of the day, exposed to +the scorching rays of the sun, I was fatigued, and for some time lay +under the branches of a tree? The soil on that occasion was soft and +wet, and from that hour to the present I have not been free from cold. +This has brought on my present disorder, from which, I believe, I shall +never recover.” + +For twenty days the Captain remained in a low and distressed state, and +during that period was gradually but perceptibly declining; his body, +from being strong and vigorous, having become exceedingly weak and +emaciated, and, indeed, little better than a skeleton. There could not +be a more truly pitiable object in the universe than was my poor dear +master, at this time. His days were sorrowfully and ignobly wasting in +vexatious indolence; he himself languishing under the influence of a +dreadful disease, in a barbarous region, far, very far removed from his +tenderest connections, and beloved country; the hope of life quenched in +his bosom; the great undertaking, on which his whole soul was bent, +unaccomplished; the active powers of his mind consumed away; and his +body so torn and racked with pain, that he could move neither head, +hand, nor foot without suppressed groans of anguish; while the fire and +energy that used to kindle in his eye had passed away, and given place +to a glossy appearance—a dull saddening expression of approaching +dissolution. + +In those dismal moments, Capt. Clapperton derived considerable +consolation from the exercise of religious duties; and, being unable +himself to hold a book in his hand, I used to read aloud to him daily +and hourly some portions of the Sacred Scriptures. At times a gleam of +hope, which the impressive and appropriate language of the Psalmist is +so admirably calculated to excite, would pierce the thick curtain of +melancholy that enveloped us; but, like the sun smiling through the +dense clouds of a winter’s day, it shone but faintly; and left us in a +state of gloomier darkness than before. + +Abderachman, an Arab from Fezzan, intruded himself one day into our hut, +and wished to read some Mohammedan prayers to my master, but was +instantly desired to leave the apartment, with a request that he would +never enter it again. This individual was the only stranger that visited +him during his sickness. + +The Captain’s sleep was uniformly short and disturbed, and troubled with +frightful dreams, in which he often reproached the Arabs with emphasis +and bitterness; but being myself almost a stranger to the language +(Arabic) I could not distinctly understand the tenor of his remarks. + +The unceasing agitation of mind, and exertion of body, which I had +myself undergone in my unremitting duties, (never having in a single +instance slept out of my clothes,) weakened me greatly; and a fever +having come on me not long before my master’s death, hung upon me for +fifteen days, and brought me to the very verge of the grave. Almost at +the commencement of this illness, there being no other person to assist +me in the manner I could wish, I obtained permission to take Pasko again +into our service. As soon as he entered the hut, the repentant old man +fell upon his knees before the couch of his sick master, and intreated +so piteously to be forgiven for the offences of which he had been +guilty, that he was desired to rise, with a promise to overlook all that +had passed, if his after-conduct should correspond with his apparent +penitence. + +By this means, the washing and all the drudgery were taken from my +shoulders, which enabled me to devote my whole time and attention to my +affectionate master’s person; and, indeed, all my energies were required +to bear me up under the pressure that almost bowed me to the dust. I +fanned the invalid nearly the whole of the day, and this seemed to cool +the burning heat of his body, of which he repeatedly complained. Almost +the whole of his conversation reverted to his country and friends, +although I never heard him regret his having left them; and he was +patient and resigned to the last, a murmur of disappointment never +escaping his lips. + +On the first of April the patient became considerably worse; and, +although evidently in want of repose, the virulence of his complaint +prevented him from enjoying any refreshing slumbers. On the 9th, Maddie, +a native of Bornou whom my master had retained in his service, brought +him about twelve ounces of green bark, from the butter-tree, recommended +to him by an Arab in the city; and assured us that it would produce the +most beneficial effects. Notwithstanding all my remonstrances, a +decoction of it was ordered to be prepared immediately, the too- +confiding invalid remarking that no one would injure him. Accordingly, +Maddie himself boiled two basons full, the whole of which stuff was +swallowed in less than an hour. + +On the following day he was greatly altered for the worse, as I had +foretold he would be, and expressed regret for not having followed my +advice. About twelve o’clock at noon, calling me to his bed-side, he +said, + +“Richard! I shall shortly be no more; I feel myself dying.” Almost +choked with grief, I replied, + +“God forbid! my dear master; you will live many years to come.” + +“Do not be so much affected, my dear boy, I intreat you,” rejoined he; +“you distress me by your emotion; it is the will of the Almighty; and +therefore cannot be helped. Take care of my journal and papers after my +decease; and when you arrive in London, go immediately to my agents, and +send for my uncle, who will accompany you to the Colonial office, and +see you deposit them with the Secretary. After my body is laid in the +earth, apply to Bello, and borrow money to purchase camels and +provisions for crossing the desert to Fezzan in the train of the Arab +merchants. On your arrival at Mourzuk, should your money be expended, +send a messenger to Mr. Warrington, our Consul for Tripoli, and wait +till he returns with a remittance. On your reaching the latter place, +that gentleman will further advance you what money you may require, and +send you to England the first opportunity. Do not lumber yourself with +my books, but leave them behind, as well as my barometer and sticks, and +indeed every heavy or cumbersome article you can conveniently part with; +you may give them to mallam Mudey, who will preserve them. Remark +whatever towns or villages you may pass through, and put on paper any +thing remarkable that the chiefs of the different places may say to +you.” + +I said, as well as my agitation would permit me, “If it be the will of +God to take you, Sir, you may confidently rely, as far as circumstances +will permit me, on my faithfully performing all that you have desired; +but I hope and believe that the Almighty will yet spare you to see your +home and country again.” + +“I thought at one time,” continued he, “that that would be the case, but +I dare not entertain such hopes now; death is on me, and I shall not be +long for this world; God’s will be done.” He then took my hand betwixt +his, and looking me full in the face, while a tear glistened in his eye, +said in a tremulous, melancholy tone: + +“My dear Richard, if you had not been with me I should have died long +ago. I can only thank you with my latest breath for your devotedness and +attachment to me; and if I could live to return to England with you, you +should be placed beyond the reach of want; the Almighty, however, will +reward you.” + +This pathetic conversation, which occupied almost two hours, greatly +exhausted my master, and he fainted several times whilst speaking. The +same evening he fell into a slumber, from which he awoke in much +perturbation, and said that he had heard with peculiar distinctness the +tolling of an English funeral bell; but I entreated him to be composed, +observing that sick people frequently fancy things which in reality can +have no existence. He shook his head, but said nothing. + +About six o’clock on the morning of the 11th April, on my asking him how +he did, my master replied in a cheerful tone, that he felt much better; +and requested to be shaved. He had not sufficient strength to lift his +head from the pillow; and after finishing one side of the face I was +obliged myself to turn his head in order to get at the other. As soon as +he was shaved, he desired me to fetch him a looking-glass which hung on +the opposite side of the hut; and on seeing the reflection of his face +in it, observed that he looked quite as ill in Bornou on his former +journey, and that as he had borne his disorder for so long a time, there +was some possibility of his yet recovering. On the following day he +still fancied himself to be convalescent, in which belief I myself +agreed, as he was enabled to partake of a little hashed guinea fowl in +the course of the afternoon, which he had not done before during the +whole of his confinement, having derived his sole sustenance from a +little fowl soup and milk and water. + +These flattering anticipations, however, speedily vanished, for on the +morning of the 13th, being awake, I was greatly alarmed on hearing a +peculiar rattling noise issuing from my master’s throat, and his +breathing at the same time was loud and difficult. At that moment, on +his calling out “Richard!” in a low, hurried, and singular tone, I was +instantly at his side, and was astonished beyond measure on beholding +him sitting upright in his bed (not having been able for a long time +previously to move a limb), and staring wildly around. Observing him +ineffectually struggling to raise himself on his feet, I clasped him in +my arms, and whilst I thus held him, could feel his heart palpitating +violently. His throes became every moment less vehement, and at last +they entirely ceased, insomuch that thinking he had fallen into a +slumber, or was overpowered by fain tings, I placed his head gently on +my left shoulder, gazing for an instant, on his pale and altered +features; some indistinct expressions quivered on his lips, and whilst +he vainly strove to give them utterance, his heart ceased to vibrate, +and his eyes closed for ever! + +I held the lifeless body in my arms for a short period, overwhelmed with +grief; nor could I bring myself to believe that the soul which had +animated it with being, a few moments before, had actually quitted it. + +I then unclasped my arms, and held the hand of my dear master in mine; +but it was cold and dead, and instead of returning the warmth with which +I used to press it, imparted some of its own unearthly chillness to my +frame, and fell heavily from my grasp. O God! what was my distress in +that agonizing moment? Shedding floods of tears, I flung myself along +the bed of death, and prayed that Heaven would in mercy take my life! + + * * * * + +The violence of my grief having subsided, Pasko and Mudey, whom my +exclamations had brought into the apartment, fetched me water, with +which I washed the corpse, and with their assistance, carried it outside +the hut, laid it on a clean mat, and wrapped it in a sheet and blanket. +After leaving it in this state nearly two hours, I put a large neat mat +over the whole, and sent a messenger to make Bello acquainted with the +mournful event, as well as to obtain his permission to have the body +buried after the manner of my own country; and also to learn in what +particular place the Sultan would wish to have it interred. The man soon +returned with a favourable answer to the former part of my request, and +about twelve o’clock on the morning of the same day, a person came into +the hut, accompanied by four slaves, to dig the grave; and wished me to +follow him with the corpse. Accordingly, saddling my camel, the body was +placed on the animal’s back, and throwing a British flag over it, I +requested the men to proceed. Having passed through the dismal streets +of Soccatoo, we travelled almost unobservedly, at a solemn pace, and +halted near Jungavie, a small village, built on a rising ground about +five miles south-east of the city. The body was then taken from the +camel’s back, and placed in a shed, whilst the slaves were employed in +digging the grave. Their task being speedily accomplished, the corpse +was borne to the brink of the pit, and I planted the flag close to it; +then, uncovering my head, and opening a prayer-book, amidst showers of +tears, I read the impressive funeral service of the Church of England +over the remains of my valued master—the English flag waving slowly and +mournfully over them at the same moment. Not a single soul listened to +this peculiarly distressing ceremony; for the slaves were quarrelling +with each other the whole of the time it lasted. + +This being done, the flag was taken away, and the body slowly lowered +into the earth; and I wept bitterly as I gazed, for a last time, on all +that remained of my intrepid and beloved master. The grave was quickly +closed, and I returned to the village, about thirty yards to the +eastward of it, and giving the most respectable inhabitants of both +sexes a few trifling presents, entreated them to let no one disturb the +ashes of the dead; and also offered them a sum of money to erect a shed +over the spot, which having accepted, they promised to do. + +[Illustration] + +Thus perished, and thus was buried, Captain Hugh Clapperton in the prime +of life, and in the strength and vigour of his manhood. No one could be +better qualified than he by a fearless, indomitable spirit, and utter +contempt of danger and death, to undertake and carry into execution an +enterprise of so great importance and difficulty, as the one with which +he was entrusted. He had studied the African character in all its +phases—in its moral, social, and external form; and like Alcibiades +accommodated himself with equal ease to good, as well to bad fortune—to +prosperity, as well as to adversity. He was never highly elated at the +prospect of accomplishing his darling wishes—the great object of his +ambition—nor deeply depressed when, environed by danger—care, +disappointment, and bodily suffering which hanging heavily upon him, +forbade him to indulge in hopeful anticipations. The negro loved him, +because he admired the simplicity of his manners, and mingled with +pleasure in his favourite dance; the Arab hated him, because he was +overawed by his commanding appearance, and because the keen penetrating +glance of the British Captain detected his guilty thoughts, and made him +quail with apprehension and fear. + +Captain Clapperton’s stature was tall; his disposition was warm and +benevolent; his temper mild, even, and cheerful; while his ingenuous, +manly countenance, pourtrayed the generous emotions that reigned in his +breast. In fine, he united the figure and determination of a man, with +the gentleness and simplicity of a child; and, if I mistake not, he will +live in the memory of many thousands of Africans, until they cease to +breathe, as something more than mortal; nor have I the least doubt that +the period of his visiting their country will be regarded by some as a +new era, from which all events of consequence, that affect them, will +hereafter be dated. + +The grave was dug on a naked piece of ground, with no remarkable object +near it to invite attention;—no mournful cypress or yew weeps over the +lonely spot—no sculptured marble shines above all that remains of heroic +enterprize and daring adventure! But the sleeper needs no funereal +emblem to perpetuate his name and actions, having erected for himself a +nobler and far more imperishable mausoleum in the breasts of his +countrymen and the civilized world, than all the artists in the universe +could rear over his ashes. + +Returning, after the funeral, disconsolate and oppressed, to my solitary +habitation, I leaned my head on my hands, and could not help being +deeply affected with my lonesome and dangerous situation. A hundred and +fifteen days’ journey from the sea-coast; surrounded by a selfish and +barbarous race of strangers;—my only friend and protector, and last +hope, mouldering in his grave, and myself suffering dreadfully from +fever: I felt as if I stood alone in the world, and wished, ardently +wished, I had been enjoying the same deep, undisturbed, cold sleep as my +master, and in the same grave. All the trying evils I had +encountered—all the afflictions I had endured—all the bereavements I had +experienced, never affected me half so much as the bitter reflections of +that distressing period. After a sleepless night, I went alone to the +grave, and found that nothing had been done to it, nor did there seem to +be the least inclination on the part of the inhabitants of the village +to redeem their pledge. Knowing it would be useless to remonstrate with +such wretches, I hired two slaves in Soccatoo the next day, who went to +work immediately, and the shed over the grave was finished on the 15th. + + + + + CHAPTER XII. + + * * * * * + +The Author’s severe indisposition and distress of mind — Conduct of +Bello — Departure from Soccatoo — The Author almost perishes of thirst +in the “Goober Bush,” where he is deserted by the faithless Pasko — The +King of Jacoba — Horrid death of that monarch’s slaves — The Author’s +arrival at Kano. + + +The acute suffering, both in mind and body, and the ceaseless agitation +and excitement in which I had been kept during the illness, and at the +death and burial of my master, occasioned my disorder to increase +rapidly on me; and on the 16th, being enabled with difficulty to crawl +round the hut, I was obliged to lay myself on my mat, from which I had +not strength to arise till the 27th; old Pasko, during that period, +ministering to all my wants. Whilst I was thus confined, the weather was +so dreadfully warm, that I was under the necessity of having a tub of +water at my side, into which, at intervals, I used to plunge my hands +and arms, besides occasionally sprinkling my burning head and body. I +had abandoned every hope of recovery from the effects of my complaint, +and was prepared, in some measure, to undergo the last struggle, when, +on the 26th, I found my health suddenly improve in a manner altogether +as unexpected as strange; and on the following day I was enabled to sit +erect on my mat. In the course of that day (27th) the Godado, mallam +Mudey, and Side Sheikh abruptly entered my hut, with a commission from +the Sultan to search my boxes, that prince having been informed, just +before, that they were filled with gold and silver; although his sole +intention, I well knew, was that of ascertaining what fire-arms were in +my possession. + +Weak as I was, I remonstrated sharply with these ministers of the king’s +will, whilst they were prosecuting the search; but it was of no +avail—every thing was ransacked and turned topsy-turvy. + +They expressed the greatest astonishment on finding not even sufficient +money to defray my expenses to the sea coast; but, nevertheless, took an +inventory of the contents of the boxes, and carried it to their +sovereign. Foreseeing what would happen, I had taken the precaution to +secrete about my person the gold watch intended for the Sultan, as well +as the private watches of Captains Clapperton and Pearce. The Godado and +his coadjutor returned a short time afterwards, with a command from +their monarch to deliver up to them the following articles, viz.—a rifle +and a double-barrelled gun, two bags of ball, a canister of powder, bag +of flints, ream and half of paper, and six gold (gilt) chains; for which +he promised to pay me whatever I might demand. I consequently charged +him a quarter of a million of cowries for the goods, which I was to +receive, on account of the Sultan, of Hat Sallah; and an order was given +me to receive that sum in Kano, and what more I might require in my +journey over the Desert. + +On the 28th I made Ben Gumso a present of four yards of blue, and the +same quantity of scarlet damask, an unwritten journal-book, two pair of +scissors and two knives. With these articles, which to him were +invaluable, I endeavoured to get still further into the good graces of +this old Arab emir, who, by a singular piece of good fortune, had just +begun to exercise a powerful influence over the mind and actions of the +superstitious Sultan. + +After escaping from the death he was threatened with at Katunga, which +has already been related, this emir returned to Soccatoo; and, like his +cheating countrymen, procured a handsome livelihood by writing charms, +&c. &c. for the Falatahs. Ben Gumso accompanied Bello in his engagement +with the Towayahs, when that monarch was pierced with a poisoned arrow. +The Arab’s panacea was resorted to on this occasion; and having written +his charm on a piece of wood, it was washed off, as usual, into a +calabash of water, and hastily swallowed by the prince. By some means +the venom never took effect, and the Sultan having recovered from his +wound in a few days, attributed the cure solely to Ben Gumso’s specific. +To display his gratitude for the good which had been done him, Bello +admitted the fortunate charmer into his councils, and covered him with +honors and emoluments. + +This being the case, I conceived a trifling present would be well timed; +and therefore, after putting it into his hands, entreated him to use his +interest with his royal master, in order to obtain his permission for my +leaving Soccatoo, and making the best of my way homewards. Accordingly, +Ben Gumso represented to the Sultan in lively colours the injustice, as +well as impolicy, of detaining any longer in his dominions a subject of +the powerful king of England; and advised him to hasten my departure as +much as he could, insinuating, that if I were to die in Soccatoo, a +report would be circulated and believed, that he had murdered both the +white men, by which he would most certainly acquire a bad character. + +This artful reasoning overcame the scruples of the Falatah prince, and +word was sent me almost immediately, to appear before him. Bello had the +gravity of a Mohammedan about him on my entrance, and putting on all the +dignity he could assume, looked like Pluto trying a ghost for the sins +it had committed on the earth. However, I did not tremble in his august +presence; and after a little preliminary conversation, the Sultan asked +me which route I should prefer in order to reach my own country. + +Now, although my master had intimated his wish for me to proceed with +the Arabs to Fezzan, a few days only before his death, I much feared +that the papers, &c. entrusted to my care would be taken from me, and +myself murdered, by that wily and treacherous race, whose behaviour to +my master, after his arrival in Houssa was most abominable. I therefore +disliked them—hated them; and would rather cast myself, unarmed and +unprotected, upon the good faith of the natives, than go in their train. +Under these impressions and prejudices, I answered the Sultan, that I +wished to arrive in England in as short a time as possible, and the +route through Boussa to Cubbé was most likely to accomplish that object. +“It is impossible,” angrily rejoined the prince, “to travel in that +direction; the rainy season is already set in; the rivers are +overflowed; the low lands are under water; and how do you think to reach +the sea-coast in safety? It will be far better for you to go over the +desert, with the Arabs; and to facilitate your progress, I will write to +Hat Sallah to get a trustworthy person to accompany you; he will also +furnish you with camels and provisions, and pay you the money I am +indebted to you.” I simply replied, “Very well, Sultan.” He then wished +to know whether Captain Clapperton had forgiven Pasko, _in his book_, +for the robberies he had committed; and on my answering that, owing to +the illness of that gentleman, he had been unable even to look into his +Journal, the monarch observed, that on Pasko’s arrival in England, my +king would undoubtedly behead him. I assured him, that if the man’s +future conduct proved to be good, not one of my countrymen would think +of punishing him; but this the Sultan was in no haste to believe, and +said, imperatively, “I cannot suffer him to accompany you; he must stay +here to _clean and repair my guns_!”—this latter consideration evidently +possessed greater weight with him than Pasko’s safety, which he cared +nothing at all about. Not in the least daunted, I besought Bello to +permit him to accompany me as far as Kano, as interpreter; to which he +rather reluctantly consented, on condition that I should procure him a +horse to return, and pay him the sum of 150,000 cowries, which, of +course, I agreed to; and seeing that the Sultan had nothing more to say, +I bowed profoundly, and retired. This was my last interview with the +Falatah sovereign, and I saw him no more. + +On the evening of the 3d of May a person came with a message from the +Sultan, who said that a camel and some provisions would be sent me in +the course of the morning, and that I was to depart on the next day. +Neither camel nor provisions, however, were delivered; and, rising early +on the appointed morning, I bade a last farewell to Soccatoo, a town in +which I had suffered so dreadfully; and, accompanied by a messenger from +the kind old Godado, and Pasko and Mudey, we proceeded with our camels +and horses to a large plain, five miles to the east of Magaria, where we +arrived in the afternoon; and rested for the night under the wide- +spreading branches of a large tree growing on the margin of an +insignificant lake. Mosquitoes were in such numbers, and so troublesome, +that we could not sleep till morning, when a refreshing breeze springing +up, drove them away. + +At this flat we joined a party of above four thousand people, of all +ranks and of every nation; some going on a pilgrimage to Mecca; some to +the sea-coast to purchase goora-nuts; many Tuarick salt-merchants +returning to Kilgris; but all travelling in company for mutual +protection, and bending their way towards Kashna, where merchants of +every description meet, and disperse from thence to their different +destinations. An infinite number of camels, horses, and bullocks, +attended the party; and the king of Jacoba, with 50 slaves, was also in +their train. These poor creatures had been driven from his kingdom by +the above prince to Soccatoo, as a present or tribute to Sultan Bello; +but that monarch having learnt the dreadful losses he had sustained in +men and cattle, in consequence of his war with Bornou, and the number of +villages which had been plundered and burnt by the soldiers of the +Sheikh, would not accept of the slaves, but desired the king of Jacoba +to re-conduct them back to his own dominions. + +At eleven o’clock in the morning of the 4th of May a signal to depart +was made by a loud blast from a thousand horns, producing a frightfully +discordant noise; and in about an hour afterwards the whole party was in +motion. On entering the dreaded “Goober Bush,” a wild and uncultivated +tract of ground, covered with stunted trees, we were obliged to redouble +our pace in order to escape the fangs of the merciless Towayahs. Boussa +Jack (a horse so called from having been made a present of by the king +of Boussa) I rode myself, on account of his swiftness and agility; but +being unused to so violent an exertion, the little animal became much +fatigued, and began to lag behind the others. The weather was at that +time intolerably hot; vegetation shrank before the piercing rays of the +sun, and the dust raised by the hoofs of the horses, &c. arose in huge +volumes in every direction, entering my eyes, my mouth, my nostrils, and +penetrating even the pores of my skin. Not a breath of air fanned the +leaves of the trees; I was almost suffocated for want of it, but snuffed +up only sand and dust. The camels were far a-head: I was faint and +exhausted, and ordered Pasko to fly to them for a drop of water. The +horse would, or rather could, proceed no further; I was obliged to +dismount, and seat myself under a tree; there, holding the bridle of the +poor animal in my hand, I begged, I prayed the thousands of Falatahs and +Tuaricks that were passing, for a mouthful of water to quench my +parching thirst; but the unfeeling, iron-hearted wretches mocked my +misery, and scoffed at my piteous entreaties, observing, one to another, +“He is a Kafir; let him die!” + +[Illustration] + +This cruel disappointment almost choked me; I was so hoarse that I could +no longer be heard, and, falling flat on my back, let the bridle slip +from my fingers, and, covering my face with my hands, tears came +involuntarily into my eyes. At length a young Falatah, from Foota Toora, +accidentally seeing me lying along the earth with a horse standing +listlessly by, came to the spot, and exclaimed, in a tone of kindness, +“Christian, Christian, why don’t you go on?” On hearing him, I again sat +up, and answered, “I am faint and sick for want of water; no one will +relieve me; and how can I go on?” On hearing this, the young man +generously presented me with a small calabash full (about a pint), part +of which I drank, and with the remainder washed the nostrils of Boussa +Jack, and sprinkled a little into his mouth. His countrymen, who +observed the compassionate Falatah performing this benevolent action, +upbraided him in violent terms for having given water to the Christian; +but my amiable preserver, showing them a double-barrelled gun, remarked +that he had obtained it of my countrymen, who were all good men, and +would do no harm. I, as well as the horse, was greatly refreshed with +the small quantity of water thus taken, but soon becoming again weak and +dispirited, I was nearly reduced to as bad a condition as before. A few +hours afterwards my legs were swollen so prodigiously, that my boots +split into fragments, and fell from my feet; and I experienced the most +acute pain in every part of my body. At length I perceived Pasko, whom I +had sent for water three or four hours previously, comfortably seated +with Muley the camel-driver, under a tree,—my provision basket lying +open before him, a calabash of the purest water gurgling down his +throat, and him, with his sable companion, thoughtlessly enjoying +himself with a zest that almost distracted me. I rode hastily up to the +spot, and, pulling out a pistol, had more than half an inclination to +send the heartless old savage to his long account, but suddenly checked +myself. No! I could not take away the life of a fellow-creature, even in +the height of excitement; and, replacing the pistol in my belt, I simply +asked the reason of his brutal treatment of me. The old fellow answered +with his usual demoniacal grin, and as composedly as if nothing was the +matter, “I was tired.” + +The young Falatah to whom I owe my life came to me on the 7th, and +informed me that the whole of the slaves of the King of Jacoba being +missing, a party of horsemen had been sent in quest of them, and were +just returned with the shocking intelligence of having seen thirty-five +of their dead bodies lying along the road; and that hundreds of vultures +were already hovering over them. The other fifteen could not be found; +but were strongly suspected of having shared in the same fate. These +unfortunate creatures had the task of carrying loads on their heads the +day before, but, being unable to keep up with the rapid pace of the +camels, were necessarily obliged to be left behind, and thus perished +miserably of thirst and fatigue. I congratulated myself on my own good +fortune, in having so narrowly escaped a fate so peculiarly frightful; +and thanked the Almighty with fervor and sincerity for having snatched +me from the very jaws of death. On his leaving me, I gave the Falatah a +pair of scissors and twenty gun-flints, as a small recompense for the +eminent service he had so cheerfully rendered me. + +On our road to Kano, the King of Jacoba became very sociable with me, +and was my constant companion. After pressing me to visit his kingdom, +in which he asserted he would make my stay agreeable, he told me that +the Yam Yams, who inhabit the mountains contiguous to Jacoba, were +anthropophagi, in which assertion he was borne out by two Yam Yams, who +were slaves in Kano when I was in that city. The Prince said further, +that people of the same nation, who had assisted him in his war with +Bornou, were surrounded, with some of his own troops, on a plain near +Jacoba, by the Sheikh’s soldiers, and the carnage on both sides was +dreadful. The fight lasted a whole day, when, in the evening, the +Jacobeans, with their ferocious allies, were entirely routed, and the +King himself, who commanded them, very narrowly escaped being taken +prisoner. On the following morning the discomfited Yam Yams repaired to +the field of battle, and bearing off a great number of dead bodies, +roasted them before large fires, kindled for the purpose, and devoured +them without yams, corn, or, indeed, any other provisions! + +Soon after our arrival at Markee, on the 19th, a spouse of the chief, a +finely-formed and intelligent-looking young woman, came to me with tears +in her eyes, and implored me to give her some _magonie_ [medicine], as +she had no child. I accordingly presented her with a couple of tea- +spoonfuls of oil of cinnamon, and ordered her, with a suitable caution, +to put two drops of the liquor into a pint of cow’s milk, which was to +be swallowed three times a day till the whole was consumed; observing +that, on my return to Markee, I had not the least doubt of seeing her +the happy mother of a numerous progeny! + +The husband was no sooner acquainted with the circumstance than he came +and thanked me in the heartiest manner for the good I had done, gave me +abundance of fresh milk, fowls, rice, &c. and told me at the same time +that on my return from England, he would reward me with a large sum of +money, which I dare say he will do. When I bade the happy couple adieu +next morning, they squeezed my hand affectionately, and said, +“Christian! God send you safely to your country, and may you speedily +come back to Markee!” + +I arrived at Kano on the 25th of May, and instantly delivered Bello’s +letter and orders to Hadje Hat Sallah; but the Arab, after perusing +them, declared at first that he would have nothing to do with me. He had +nearly lost his head, he said, on Captain Clapperton’s account on a +previous occasion, and positively refused to _lend_ me a single cowry. +“I have no objection,” he continued, “to let you have, in goods and a +slave, the amount of your demand on the sultan, but I shall certainly do +no more.” I accordingly received from Hat Sallah a strong female slave, +and a quantity of unwrought silk, and scarlet caps, beads to sell on my +journey. My weakened and diseased camels, which would be of no service +to me, I parted with, and dismissed their keeper, Maddie. + + + + + CHAPTER XIII. + + * * * * * + +Pasko — The Author pays his respects to the Governor, and leaves Kano — +Chooses, near Bebajie, the road to Fundah — Almena mountain — The Author +is seen and recognized by horsemen from Zeg Zeg — Arrives amongst the +people of Bowchee — Their manners — A girl’s lamentation on being sold +by her mother — The Author enters the immense plain of Cuttup — Anecdote +of an old woman. + + +Not having sufficient money at my disposal to purchase fresh camels, or +provisions and presents for the different chiefs of towns on the road to +Fezzan, I was necessitated to take a different route, which I was not at +all sorry for; and for that purpose purchased a horse and two asses. +Bello had not forgotten to desire Hat Sallah, in his letter to him, to +send back Pasko to Soccatoo the day after my arrival at Kano, and +procure me a substitute. I begged of him, however, to suffer the Haussan +to accompany me to Coulfo in Nyffé, and promised to have him conveyed +back to Kano on my arrival there. He at first refused to accede to my +wishes, but the temptation of a present, the best argument in the world +in such cases, made the old Arab smile an assent to my proposition; and +calling Pasko into his presence, he gave him permission to attend me to +Coulfo, but enjoined him to return the moment he had entered that city, +on pain of having _Jerrub_ (the Devil) sent after him. The old offender, +who could be moved by nothing else, at the bare sound of _Jerrub_ was +flung into a violent fever, and hastened to me in great trepidation +shortly after, every member of his body trembling like an aspen-leaf. +After giving me to understand, as well as his agitation would allow him +to do, the conversation he had had with Hat Sallah, and in consequence +thereof his reluctance to quit Kano with me, I endeavoured to deride him +out of his superstitious prejudices; but they had taken so firm a grasp +on his mind that all my exertions were ineffectual; and he still +persevered in his resolution of remaining behind. Knowing Pasko’s tender +regard for the softer sex, however, I made this a means of accomplishing +my object. I had consented he should take the slave that Hat Sallah had +sold me, to wife, for he had forgotten the lovely Mattah, of tuah +celebrity, and felt great loneliness in the absence of female converse; +I therefore assured him that unless he would consent to accompany me, a +separation should instantly take place. The event showed that I had +touched the right chord; on hearing my decision, he trembled more +violently than ever, and while rivers of tears flowed down his furrowed +cheeks, exclaimed, in a tone of agony that rendered his expression +almost inarticulate, “O, don’t—I—will—go.” This weighty point being +decided, I made the necessary preparations for my departure. + +On the 29th, Hat Sallah hinted that it would be well for me to pay a +visit to the governor of Kano, who was at Faniso. I agreed with the Arab +in opinion, and waited on his Excellency in the course of the morning, +who, on my leaving him, said, “When you return to your country, +Christian, give the Falatahs a good name.” + +In the afternoon we left Kano, and travelling at a rapid rate, halted on +the banks of the Kogie, four hours’ journey from that place, but the +river being much swollen, we did not dare to cross it. To our infinite +disappointment I found that the tent poles had been left behind, and was +therefore obliged to send back one of the servants to fetch them, giving +him a sword in proof that he was despatched by me. The scoundrel, +however, never returned; and it being necessary for us to rest on the +margin of the stream that night, I slung the tent to the branch of a +tree, and fastened the lower part of it to the earth. In the evening the +rain poured down in torrents, accompanied by awful and tremendous +thunder, so that in the night, our tent being completely drenched, the +bough to which it was appended broke with its increasing weight; and +falling on us as we were reposing on our mats, we found it impossible to +sleep, and were obliged to remain in that miserable plight till the next +morning. + +We arose at an early hour, and as soon as things were put in some kind +of order, I sent Pasko to Kano, to endeavour to apprehend the fellow +that had absconded with my sword, for I fancied that one rogue was +better qualified to detect another, than an honest man: but the man not +having been seen in the city, Pasko was unsuccessful in his search, and +returned, very much down in the mouth, bringing with him the tent-poles. +The river Kogie by that time was become fordable; but, in consequence of +the strength and rapidity of its current, we crossed with extreme +difficulty. No sooner was this object effected, and before we had time +to clothe ourselves, than four armed slaves from Soccatoo hastened up to +us, and demanded the four thousand cowries, which, it will be +recollected Pasko had borrowed of Ben Gumso, to defray the expenses of +his marriage with the accomplished, but hard-handed, Mattah Gewow. Pasko +protested that he had left property in Soccatoo to the value of fifty +thousand cowries, out of which Ben Gumso might satisfy himself. This +answer by no means pleased the myrmidons of the illustrious Arab emir, +who, for the sake of little more than a shilling of English money, had +despatched four men to the distance of between two and three hundred +miles to arrest the debtor; and they were about to take the affectionate +lover away by force, when I thought it time to interfere, and paid them +the money they demanded. The armed scoundrels then went their way, +taking with them the whole of Pasko’s wearing apparel, which he had left +on the opposite side of the stream; so that the every-way unfortunate +man was obliged to have a rough mat tied to his waist, till I could +procure him a more becoming garment. This little matter being adjusted, +to the complete satisfaction of the husband of Mattah, we slept on the +borders of the stream for the night, and pursued our journey on the +morning of the next day. At two o’clock we arrived at a small walled +town called Madubie, in which I erected my tent; and in the evening the +chief’s daughter visited me with milk, and a huge bowl of beef and tuah, +sufficient for the whole of us for supper. + +The weather had been violent during the night, but clearing up early on +the 1st of June, we dried the tent, and journeyed onwards till we +arrived at the Gora, a narrow, but deep and rapid river. As on the +former occasion, the men experienced considerable difficulty in +attaining the opposite side, and I was greatly afraid they would be +washed away and drowned by the swiftness with which the water rolled on; +but, happily, after a world of exertion, they crossed in safety, and at +one at noon, passing near the walled town of Bebajie, I desired them to +proceed a-head. I myself followed alone at some distance, for I dreaded +being seen by any of the straggling inhabitants, who, if they happened +to recognize my features, would infallibly detain me amongst them. In +half an hour we came to two other roads, the one leading to Nyffé, and +the other to the far-famed Fundah. + +When Capt. Clapperton found himself dying in Soccatoo, he intimated to +me that if I attempted to return through Nyffé and Yariba, the +inhabitants of one of those countries, who must have heard of our having +taken presents to their common adversary, would undoubtedly put me to +death; and this was the reason he wished to impress so strongly upon me +the necessity of my accompanying the Arabs over the desert. I paused for +an instant, as I looked on each of the said roads; but, feeling an +earnest desire, which I could not repress, to visit Fundah, on the banks +of the Niger, and trace that much-talked of river in a canoe to Benin; +and, perhaps, fearing that my departed master’s observation was well- +grounded, I did not hesitate a great while, but travelled on the latter +road. + +About six in the evening we erected our tent near to Koofa, a small +walled town, in which I was fortunate enough to obtain a little sleep +for the first time since leaving Kano. The town is situated at the base +of an immense rock, on which there is not the slightest trace of +vegetation; and, although extremely populous, is no more than two miles +in circumference. To the eastward of it is a range of high hills, +stretching from north to south as far as the eye can reach; and their +slopes being green and luxuriant, they wore a delightful appearance. + +On the three following days, we crossed several rapid streams, and +passed through many insignificant walled towns. The country traversed on +those days, although level, was picturesque and beautiful; and all +nature was covered with a lively verdure. + +On the 4th of June we came to the foot of a high and craggy mountain, +called Almena, rising abruptly from the plains. It consists of gigantic +blocks of granite, fearfully piled on each other, and at a distance +resembled the rocks in the vicinity of the celebrated logan-stone, in +Cornwall. Mohammed, an intelligent mussulman, who was acquainted with +the traditions of the whole country, seating himself on a mass of rock, +gave me the following story:— + +“About five hundred years ago, a queen of the Fantee nation, having +quarrelled with her husband about a golden stool, fled with it from her +dominions, followed by a great number of her subjects; and built a +considerable town at the foot of this mountain, which she called Almena. +Her irritated husband pursued the queen with an army; but, losing a +great part of his men from sickness and other causes, adopted the +language of a suppliant instead of the bearing of the general of an +army, and prayed to be admitted into the town, and live in peace with +his ambitious spouse. His petition was granted, and the newly-built town +flourished under their joint government till about ten or twelve years +afterwards, when the natives of the country rose against them, and +putting the principal inhabitants, with their sovereign, to death, took +the remainder into slavery, and levelled the ill-fated Almena with the +dust.” + +The town, of whatever kind it might have been, was formerly surrounded +by a wall, the ruins of which are yet visible. + +We halted at another walled town, called Gatas, in the afternoon, where +I accidentally met with some Kano merchants from Cuttup. The +inhabitants, discovering by some means that I was a Christian, came in +crowds to see me; but behaved in an orderly and respectful manner. I +invited the most respectable females into my tent, which they all +greatly admired, and in return for this civility shortly afterwards +presented me with milk and _foorah_. The inhabitants of Gatas, as well +as those of every other town I had passed through since leaving Kano, +are natives of Houssa, and tributary to the Falatahs. + +We halted at the outside of Damoy on the 5th, the inhabitants of which +informed me that the range of hills I have already mentioned as +extending to the verge of the horizon, are inhabited by the terrible Yam +Yams, whom they all declared to be confirmed cannibals. That singular +people formerly carried on an extensive traffic with the natives of the +surrounding country in elephants’ teeth, which they exchanged for red +cloth, beads, &c.; but having about five years before assassinated and +eaten a gaffle of merchants, all communication had, from that period, +been cut off, between the savage mountaineers and their timid neighbours +of the plains. + +We arrived at Nammaleek on the 7th: the town is defended by a mountain +nearly perpendicular, and thickly covered with wood. Thousands of +hyænas, tiger-cats, jackalls, monkeys, &c. which exist on the latter, +kept so terrific a noise during the night, that although much fatigued, +I could not close my eyes. These animals are so bold and rapacious, that +the poor inhabitants of Nammaleek cannot preserve a single bullock, +sheep, or goat; in consequence of which no animal food was to be had in +the town. The chief put us into a hut, and presented us with tuah, which +being most unpalatable stuff, by reason of a little sauce, prepared from +the juice of the monkey’s bread-fruit tree, which had been mixed with +it, I could not taste a mouthful. + +I intended to have remained in the place for a few hours on the +following day, in order to take medicine; for, having a slight fever on +me, I felt extremely unwell; but the curiosity of the people not +permitting me to embrace an opportunity of opening my medicine-chest, +excepting in their presence, I felt no inclination to try the +experiment. In the course of the day (7th) two messengers unluckily +recognized me, and asked whither I was journeying. On my acquainting +them, the horsemen instantly rode off, and, as I subsequently learnt, +returned to Zaria, and informed the King of Zeg Zeg that the Christian +was on his way to Fundah, with two asses, loaded with riches, and a +beautiful horse, as presents to the monarch of that kingdom. + +Leaving Nammaleek on the 8th, and keeping in a south-westerly direction, +at the base of a range of mountains, we observed an opening through +them, and rode to the opposite side. Our course then lay more easterly; +and, having crossed one large and three small rivers, whose names I +could not learn, we arrived at Fullindushie, the frontier town in +Catica, or Bowchee, in the afternoon. On our journey we met, on their +way to Soccatoo, as a tax paid to Sultan Bello from a neighbouring +country, thirty slaves, men, women, and children, who were all ill with +the small pox. The males were tied to each other by the neck, with +thongs made of twisted bullock’s hide; but the women and children were +unconfined: notwithstanding the loathsome disease that hung upon these +poor wretches, they all appeared merry, thoughtless, and happy, as +though they had been enjoying their freedom in perfect health. + +The inhabitants of Fullindushie were the first people in Africa I had +seen that disdained to confine their well-proportioned limbs in any kind +of dress; they went perfectly naked, and laughed immoderately on seeing +me; whilst I, on my part, made myself equally merry at the singularity +of their appearance. Their sable locks were bedecked with huge lumps of +red clay and grease—their bodies shone with a clammy unction, any thing +but agreeable to the eye, or pleasant to the smell—a massy piece of blue +glass hung from a hole in the upper lip—and from the lobe of the ear +dangled a misshapen fragment of red wood, about the largeness of a man’s +thumb. + +Their features do not resemble, in the slightest degree, those of the +Negro, but are fine, regular and handsome, bearing a striking similitude +to the European, such as impressed me at first sight;—yet, with all +these pretensions to superiority over their jetty neighbours in personal +appearance, they yield to them in cleanliness and decency; for, although +an artless, good-tempered, social race, the Bowchee people are filthy in +their habits, and disgusting in their manners; their sheep, goats, and +poultry eat and sleep in the same room with them, and a most intolerable +odour is exhaled from all their dwellings. When the females of Catica go +to market, they wear a twig tied to the middle, and hanging down in +front. Nothing can be more graceful or _picturesque_ than a troop of +these modest damsels proceeding to market bedizened in this manner; and +I could hardly tell what to make of a body of about a hundred of them +which met me near La Zumee. The Bowchee people appear to have no +affection for their offspring—the gentle appeals of nature are unknown +to them—parental tenderness dwells not in their bosoms; and they sell +their children as slaves to the greatest strangers in the world, with no +greater remorse of conscience than if they had been common articles of +merchandize. As a proof of this strange and unnatural apathy on the part +of a mother towards her child, the following touching scene took place +at Fullindushie whilst I was in the town:— + +A travelling slave-dealer passing through the place, had purchased +several of their children, of both sexes, from the inhabitants; and +amongst others, a middle-aged woman had an only daughter, whom she +parted with for a necklace of beads. The unhappy girl, who might have +been about thirteen or fourteen years of age, on being dragged away from +the threshold of her parents’ hut, clung distractedly, like a +shipwrecked mariner to a floating mast, round the knees of her unfeeling +mother, and looking up wistfully in her countenance, burst into a flood +of tears, exclaiming with vehemence and passion:—“O mother! do not sell +me; what will become of me? what will become of yourself in your old +age, if you suffer me to desert you? Who will fetch you corn and milk? +Who will pity you when you die? Have I been unkind to you? O, mother! do +not sell your only daughter. I will take you in my arms when you are +feeble, and carry you under the shade of trees. As a hen watches over +her chicken, so will I watch over you, my dear mother. I will repay the +kindness you showed me in my infant years. When you are weary, I will +fan you to sleep; and whilst you are sleeping, I will drive away flies +from you. I will attend on you when you are in pain; and when you die I +will shed rivers of sorrow over your grave. O mother! my dear mother! do +not push me away from you; do not sell your only daughter to be the +slave of a stranger!”—Useless tears! vain remonstrance! The unnatural, +relentless parent, shaking the beads in the face of her only child, +thrust her from her embraces; and the slave-dealer drove the agonized +girl from the place of her nativity, which she was to behold no more. + +Quitting Fullindushie, the day after our arrival, in the course of the +afternoon, we halted at La Zumee, a small town with a good population. +On entering it I observed two men, sitting under a date-tree, to which I +instantly walked up, and accosted the one, whom, being neatly dressed, I +conceived to be the chief; but was surprised to find that the person I +addressed was a Kano merchant; and the individual by his side, a dirty +contemptible old fellow, dressed in a filthy sheep skin, I was obliged +to pay my respects to as the chief of La Zumee. Having pointed out an +empty hut for my use, he disappeared, but returned in two hours after +with an apology for not sending me provisions, saying that his wives +were at work in his gardens; and on their leaving them he would remember +me. Accordingly about three hours after the chief had left me, the +industrious ladies brought me a couple of fowls, and tuah and rice, for +which I gave them a pair of scissors and fifty needles; the latter +articles, like cowries, being the circulating medium of the country. +Surrounding the town is a remarkably broad and deep ditch, on the +outside of which the country is well cultivated, and the soil appears to +be rich and highly productive. On the 10th we slept at Coorokoo, a small +walled town, and on the following day pitched our tent on the banks of a +large river called Coodoonia, (flowing swiftly to the north-west, and +entering, it is said, the Niger near Fundah,) where we lay without food +till the next day. + +Arising at an early hour in the morning, we succeeded in crossing the +water, which reached to our chins, and immediately proceeded towards +_Cuttup_, where we arrived after three hours travelling. Having heard on +my route from Kano, so many different accounts of Cuttup, its wealth, +population, and celebrated market, I was surprised and disappointed on +finding it to consist of nearly five hundred small villages or hamlets, +almost adjoining each other; for I had been given to understand, in the +hyperbolical relations of the natives, that it was a magnificent and +powerful city, the wealth and prosperity of its inhabitants rendering it +of more importance than any other in the interior. The villages occupy +an immense and beautiful plain, embellished with a variety of elegant +trees, amongst which I observed, for the first time since I had left +Yariba, the plantain, the palm, and the cocoa trees, all flourishing in +vernal luxuriance. The sun shone brightly upon the numerous rural +hamlets as I passed through them; the oxen and cows were chewing the cud +in front of the tidy looking habitations; flocks of sheep bleated from +the inclosures; fowls were clucking in the lanes; small birds were +careering in the sky;—all bore an air of peace, loveliness, simplicity, +and comfort, that delighted and charmed me. + +A considerable traffic is carried on at Cuttup, in slaves and horned +cattle; the latter of which are bred by the Falatahs, (great numbers of +whom reside there for no other purpose,) who sell or exchange them to +the natives. Slaves, as well as bullocks and sheep, are exposed in the +market, which is held daily; and also red caps, country cloth, gum, +salt, goora nuts, trona, beads, tobacco, rings, needles, cutlery +articles; and honey, rice, milk, &c. People from the most remote parts +resort to the market in vast numbers, to purchase these various articles +of merchandize; and return with them to their respective countries. The +chief or sultan as he is called, being a _very_ great man, I thought it +would not be amiss to give him a present worthy his dignity and exalted +station, and accordingly took him eight yards of blue and scarlet +damask, prints of my own gracious sovereign and the late duke of York, +with several articles of minor value, in return for which I received a +sheep, the humps of two bullocks, and stewed rice sufficient to satisfy +the appetites of at least fifty hungry men. I was honoured by a visit +from ten of the king’s wives two days after my arrival, who expressing +the most rapturous delight on observing the gilt buttons on my jacket, I +cut them off, and presented them to their sable majesties, who accepted +them with a loud laugh of thankfulness, and sticking them in their ears, +bade me farewell, and danced away. + +Unlike the princes of Houssa, Nyffé, Borghoo, &c. the king of Cuttup +gives his wives unrestricted liberty, which they are never known to +abuse; but in other respects they are treated in much the same manner as +the women of those sovereigns. During my stay in Cuttup I was never in +want of a bullock’s hump, (by far the most delicate part of the animal, +and frequently weighing from twelve to fifteen pounds,) the king +invariably receiving as a tribute from the butchers, the hump of every +bullock they slaughter; and one of these delicious oily excrescences was +brought me daily by a person purposely despatched from the _queens_. +Being much in want of money, I ordered it to be published in the market- +place that I had needles and beads for sale, which brought a number of +individuals into my hut, who purchased freely, giving at least eighty +per cent more for my property than for the needles of the Arabs; but +whether the buyers actually fancied mine were of more excellent quality +than those they had been in the habit of using, or whether it arose from +a spirit of curiosity to preserve something belonging to so rare a +creature as “the white man,” I was at a loss to conjecture. + +An old woman came to me one afternoon, sobbing aloud and full of grief; +telling me in a tone of peculiar dolefulness, that all her little +savings, the accumulation of years of industry and frugality, had been +stolen from a hole in her hut, in which she had concealed it a short +time before, by some of her dishonest neighbours; and entreating me to +favour her with a charm that would effectually prevent a recurrence of +so ignominious an action in future. Being ever willing to oblige the +simple-hearted Africans, and knowing also the profound veneration in +which a charm of mine would be held by all ranks, I gave the poor woman +a teaspoonful of common sweet oil, and urged her to pour it on the money +she intended hiding, stating, that if any person should dare to touch it +without her permission, he would instantly be punished with suffering +and death. I likewise desired her to give the virtues of the charm as +extensive a circulation as possible amongst her acquaintances, who would +be so awed by the terrible denunciation threatened by the charmer, that +fear itself would deter them from exercising their pilfering +propensities on her property. The countenance of the venerable matron +brightened up at these expressions; and substituting tears of gratitude +and pleasure for those of disappointment and sorrow, she fell on her +knees before me, embraced my feet, and looking up with a mingled +expression of _naïveté_ and maternal tenderness, poured out a full tide +of thanks and blessings on her protector, as she called me, which made +me blush for the deception I had practised; but I was consoled with the +reflection, that in consequence of the invincible superstition—the +ignorance—the unconquerable prejudices of the people, and the fear in +which I was held, the very object aimed at by me, would in all +probability be fully accomplished. + +On the 16th I paid my respects to the King of Cuttup and his amiable, +laughter-loving consorts; and then pursuing my journey to Fundah in a +more cheerful mood than I had felt for a long time, arrived at a small +town called Coogie, in the middle of the afternoon. The journey, +however, was not of the most agreeable description; the road at one +moment winding over a sharp, rugged precipice, and in the next through +pools of water and deceitful hollows; we were oftentimes up to the neck +in filth and wet; to add to which, flies were innumerable, and so +troublesome to the asses by their mischievous propensity to bite and +sting, that the irritated animals, flinging off their riders in the +mire, and playing all manner of wanton pranks, detained us a +considerable time in the course of the forenoon. + +The next day our journey was not a whit more pleasant or comfortable. +The rain fell in torrents, and the water, roaring down the sides of the +mountains, rolled in one mighty stream, with inconceivable impetuosity +through the vallies, and carried every thing in its progress. This +continued for hours, when the thick clouds dispersing, the sun broke +forth in all his majesty, and the tumultuous elements were lulled into +peace. We crossed a stream, or river, called Rary, in the course of the +day, and slept at Dungoora, a small town, in which we found ourselves +very hungry, but could get nothing at all to eat. + +We pursued our course on the 18th, and arrived at Dunrora, a paltry +town, containing four thousand inhabitants, by six o’clock in the +evening. Our route, for some part of the journey, lay over steep and +craggy precipices, on the summit of one of which the horse that carried +the portmanteaus struck himself against a sharp piece of rock jutting up +out of the narrow foot path, and was precipitated a distance of eighty +yards, the ropes which were fastened to the portmanteaus arresting his +further progress. I was filled with alarm on observing the helpless +little animal tumbling head over heels down the frightful declivity, and +expected at least that he would have been dashed to pieces before +reaching the bottom; but, some stunted trees luckily growing on the side +of the precipice, he became entangled in the manner which has just been +related. We had been travelling about half an hour, after leaving the +spot on which the accident occurred, when reaching a yet more elevated +situation, an extensive and delightful prospect suddenly burst on our +view; and several days’ journey might plainly be seen before us. + +I halted for a moment to gaze upon the fine and noble scene around me, +which rivalled in magnificence and beauty the appearance of the +landscape from the Kong mountains. About half a day’s journey to the +east stood a lofty hill, at the foot of which lay the large city of +Jacoba, the metropolis of a kingdom of the same name, to which, it will +be recollected, I was invited a short time before, by its monarch; but +not having felt any inclination to depart a step out of the direct road, +had declined embracing the offer. Mahomet, my servant, declared that a +river, called Shar, or Sharra, deriving its source from the lake Tschad, +flows about half a mile from Jacoba; and that canoes can be paddled from +the said lake to the Niger at any season of the year. The Sharra enters +the latter river at Fundah, when, in conjunction with its sister +streams, after laving its banks before the towns of Cuttum Currifee, +Gattoo, and Jibboo, it joins the salt water; but at what particular +place, my informant was ignorant, never having heard the word “Benin” +till I mentioned it myself. Fundah lies due west of Dunrora. + +Not being aware that the chief of Dunrora was so _very_ eminent a +character, my present to him was of a trifling nature, consisting only +of a pair of scissors and a few needles, which were returned to me +shortly afterwards, with a contemptuous message, importing that I would +be pleased to bestow it on a less exalted individual, or send something +of greater value. On demanding the reason of such strange conduct from +the people who surrounded me, they answered that I had insulted the +dignity of themselves and their chief by offering so insignificant a +gift, he being a mighty man; but feeling no disposition to add any thing +to it, I dismissed the messenger empty-handed to his _mighty_ master. + + + + + CHAPTER XIV. + + * * * * * + +The Author overtaken at Dunrora by four armed horsemen from Zeg Zeg, who +force him to accompany them back to Zaria — His reflections — Arrives in +Zaria — Treatment of the King and his son towards the Author — His +entrance into Coulfo in Nyffé — Revisits Wow Wow — The noted widow Zuma. + + +As I was loading my beasts to depart on the morning of the 19th, I +observed four armed men ride up at full gallop to the residence of the +chief of Dunrora, whose horses were covered with foam. The great man was +no sooner made acquainted with the nature of their errand, than he came +hastily to me, followed by a multitude of people, and told me that I +must instantly return with the horsemen to Zaria, the king of Zeg Zeg +having despatched them purposely to escort me to that city. I was +amazed—thunderstruck. It was in vain to remonstrate with a chief whom I +had unwittingly offended: “If I suffer you to proceed on your journey to +Fundah,” said he, “I shall lose my head; you must submit.” Entreaty, +cajolery, and persuasion, were alike useless; the orders of the armed +men were imperative; they were backed by a thousand bows and arrows; and +with a heavy heart and cruel reflections, I turned the head of my horse +towards Cuttup. + +Thus was I obliged, after seventeen days’ perilous travelling from Kano, +with a fair prospect of reaching the celebrated Fundah in twelve or +thirteen more, from whence four days’ sail would bring me to the salt +water—a new country opening before me, and my mind filled with the most +lively anticipations of solving the geographical problem, as to whether +the Niger actually joins the sea in that direction;—thus was I obliged +to abandon my fondest and long-cherished expectations, and return to Zeg +Zeg; thence to be transported the Lord knew whither! I felt depressed +and miserable at this sudden and unexpected change in my affairs; and +was really indifferent as to my future proceedings; caring not whether I +lived or died. + +On our arrival in Cuttup, I was attacked with dysentery, and, much +against the inclination of my escort, obliged to remain there four days, +suffering during that period, and indeed a long while afterwards, more +dreadfully than I can or will describe. Finding me very tractable, and +too ill to make the least exertion, the horsemen left me in Cuttup, and +in their stead substituted two homely, peaceable men, who proceeded with +me in a different direction, towards Zeg Zeg. + +The following day the asses were excessively troublesome through the +attacks of forest flies, myriads of which swarm around and alight in +great numbers on men and beasts. These insects bit the asses so severely +that blood streamed copiously from their sides, and the animals at +length became so restive, that Pasko and Mohammed, who rode on them, +were frequently thrown to the ground; besides which the loads on their +backs were seriously damaged by reason of the asses rolling themselves +in the earth, and rubbing their backs against the trunks of trees. We +slept in our tent in the midst of a large wood, surrounded by vast +numbers of bamboo, palm, and cocoa trees; and, although very ill, I +found myself considerably stronger. + +At Cokalo, a Bowchee village, where we arrived on the 27th, the +inhabitants were so poor, that they sent us nothing but corn; but the +chief, in honor of our arrival, made a fetish, and having roasted a +fatted dog, stewed a snake in oil and water, and boiled a quantity of +corn. He then invited his people to a feast; and they partook of the +good things set before them with peculiar relish. With a benevolence +truly amiable, a small bowl of the corn so prepared, enriched with a +portion of the reptile, and the liquid in which it had been dressed, was +brought me from the chief’s table; and, supposing it to be fish swimming +in oil, I ate a mouthful or two with a very good appetite. It had, +however, a peculiar, although certainly not a disagreeable flavour with +it, and I carelessly asked a person standing near, the name of the +animal I was eating; but on his assuring me that it was part of a _land_ +fish, my appetite forsook me, and Pasko, who had been casting many a +longing eye on the delicate morsel, devoured the remainder with looks of +infinite delight, asserting that it equalled in goodness the best dried +ling he had ever tasted. + +On the following morning we arrived on the banks of the river Coodoonia; +but there it was broader, deeper, and more rapid than at Cuttup, +insomuch that it was dangerous to cross it. In attempting to convey, on +a small bamboo raft, one of the portmanteaus to the opposite side of the +stream, I found that it would not bear its weight, and I snatched it +from the sinking frame, a few feet only from the margin of the water. +Being convinced, therefore, that it would be dangerous to cross till the +river became shallower, I strenuously objected to the wishes of my +guard, (who almost dragged me into it,) and insisted that I would risk +neither my person nor property on so fragile and dangerous a conveyance +as the one at the ferry. The men, finding me resolute in my +determination, poured out a volley of abuse, and threatened in insolent +terms to go immediately and inform their sovereign of my refusal to +accompany them. I desired the fellows to give my best respects to his +majesty, and said that they were at liberty to go as soon as they +pleased; and they left me in great anger, cursing me as they went, +whilst I slowly returned with my horses and asses to the village we had +left an hour before. + +Whether the messengers did or did not go to their king, I cannot tell, +but they did not come back till nearly a fortnight afterwards; and +during that time I was ill in the village, with nothing to eat but +boiled Indian corn; for I by no means relished the huge luncheons of +roasted dogs which were served up twice in the day. The inhabitants, who +came in hundreds to see me, like their countrymen, were destitute of +apparel of any kind, yet behaved with becoming decency; and I never had +cause, in a single instance, to complain of the conduct of those simple- +minded savages. The male portion of the community seemed to have no +occupation or employment whatever, spending the whole of their time in +lounging and loitering about their native village; whilst the women were +more laudably engaged in extracting an oil from a small black seed and +from the guinea-nut. + +My escort returned on the 11th July, and in a tone of deep submission +begged me to go along with them, urging as a reason that the king of Zeg +Zeg would not give his permission to my proceeding a single step, unless +I visited first at Zaria, the capital of his dominions. Accordingly, our +beasts were loaded, and I followed them a second time to the banks of +the Coodoonia, but found the river still too deep to ford; and one +bamboo raft being insufficient to bear a heavy article without sinking, +I caused two of them to be lashed together, which answered the purpose +extremely well. The portmanteaus, &c. were first taken over, and I, +laying myself flat on my face, was next pushed across by the two +messengers, who swam behind, and dexterously propelled the frame forward +by their hands and feet. The horses and asses were not quite so +fortunate, for the current being strong and swift, they were borne by it +nearly a quarter of a mile down the stream, and could scarcely stand +from exhaustion for some time after they were dragged out of the water. +Every thing being at length safely landed on the opposite side, we left +the borders of the river, and pursuing a north-east course till sunset, +pitched our tent on a rising ground, near to a small stream. + +Leaving our encampment at half-past six in the morning, we halted +outside Accoran, the first walled town I had seen since quitting +Nammaleek. The west end of it is defended by a gigantic naked rock, and +the other parts by a mud wall and a spacious ditch. The inhabitants are +Bowchees, but so miserably poor that not even a single goat or fowl +could be procured in the town. We were again in motion on the 13th, and +traversing an agreeable country intersected with shallow streams, +arrived at Cowro in the afternoon. The palm and cocoa, which had been so +numerous since leaving Dunrora, suddenly disappeared after we had passed +Accoran, and we saw no more of those beautiful trees till we reached the +kingdom of Yariba. We remained at Cowro three days, the beasts and their +riders being equally fatigued; and its chief, a noble looking Houssan, +behaved with the most studied civility towards his guests. He was neatly +clad in a white tobe, trousers, and cap; but he wore no sandals, and his +feet were stained with hennah. In return for the chief’s kindness, and +the excellent provisions he supplied us with, I made him a present of an +old piece of carpeting, a scarlet cap, white turban, and gilt chain, +which he received with extraordinary demonstrations of gratitude. + +Having been ferried across a large river called Makkamee, we entered a +town of the same name, situated at the distance of a quarter of a mile +from its banks, where we slept; and on the following day, halting at +Wautorah, a walled town, I shot a few pigeons, which so terrified the +inhabitants that they did not approach me for some hours afterwards. The +morning of the 19th was damp, foggy, and disagreeable; and Mahomet, who, +with all his intelligence, was an idle scoundrel, wishing to have a +holiday, refused to proceed any further with me. The messengers longed +also for a similar indulgence, and fancying, no doubt, I should be +unable to go on without them, followed my servant’s example; but, seeing +through their design, I immediately ordered Pasko and his faithful wife +to load the beasts, and so left the town without them. Unluckily, a path +leading to the gardens of the inhabitants misled me; but having +discovered my error after an hour’s travelling, instead of returning by +the beaten track the way I had come, I crossed the country in the +direction I conceived the main road to take. Owing, however, to the +swampy nature of the soil, I did not attain it till four o’clock in the +afternoon, when, after a journey of two hours, the beasts becoming +exhausted, I pitched the tent by the road-side, and being greatly +distressed for want of water, slaked my thirst with some, which, oozing +from the fissures of a neighbouring rock, made a gentle gurgling noise, +that drew my attention to the spot. + +We struck our tent on the morning of the 20th, and crossing a large +river flowing to the southward at one o’clock, entered the spacious and +handsome town of Eggebee an hour afterwards. Eggebee is governed by one +of the king of Zeg Zeg’s principal fighting men; and for its excessive +cleanliness, the tidiness of its inhabitants, their prosperity and +apparent happiness, yields only to Wow Wow; and strongly reminded me of +my own far distant country. It is situated on a fine, highly-cultivated +plain; and nothing can be more agreeable than the prospect of the +country for miles round. I have seen many charming landscapes in +Africa—many which come nearer to my ideas of the garden of Eden than any +others I have beheld—but none so pleasingly, softly beautiful, as that +near Eggebee. The earth, clad in simple and lovely magnificence, was +embellished with superb trees filled with singing birds—plots of Indian +corn waved in the wind—a luxuriant vegetation sprung up at every +step—every living thing revelled in enjoyment—happiness, peace, and +plenty dwelt on the enchanting spot. It was evening when I took a stroll +a little way into the country—a calm cloudless, lovely evening. The +earth had just before been refreshed by a shower, and the sun was +setting in all his glory; the neatly-attired maidens of Eggebee, +returning to the town with calabashes of milk, sang as they went along; +birds of golden plumage fluttered on the branches of the noble trees; +insects of dazzling brightness buzzed in the air; the stridulous notes +of the grasshopper was heard from the ground; smoke ascended in circling +volumes to the skies from the dwellings of the people; and the music of +guitars and dulcimers swelled from the town,—all was soothing, serene, +heavenly. I was a sojourner in a strange land; I thought on my country, +my kindred, my home, till melancholy reflections rushed upon my mind, +and I longed to lay down my burden of care and suffering, +disappointment, vexation, and sorrow. “I am unhappy,” I said to myself, +“in all this loveliness; I have no portion in the pleasure that +surrounds me. Why am I an Englishman, why am I not rather an African? I +should then be simple as he, thoughtless as he, happy as he.” + +The delightful town of Eggebee contains a population of not less than +fourteen thousand souls; and its wall, forming a perfect square, +measures a mile each side. The inhabitants being supplied with a fine +reddish sand, (found in abundance along the beach of a noble river, +flowing about a couple of miles from the town,) and a kind of whitening, +use these ingredients for the purpose of cleansing their calabashes, and +other domestic articles; and really it gives one a sensible pleasure to +observe the taste and regularity with which these are arranged in the +interior of their dwellings, and the extreme whiteness of the whole. The +calabashes have figures of horses, sheep, cows, &c. carved on them by +persons whose time is entirely devoted to this single object, and who +receive for the work on each the sum of five cowries (less than a +farthing sterling). Instead of sleeping on the bare ground, as is the +case in every other town in the interior, excepting Cuttup, the +inhabitants of Eggebee raise a kind of platform at a height of three or +four feet from the floor, supported on clay pillars, on which they +repose themselves during the heat of the day, and at night. In the +vicinity of the town grew a great variety of beautiful flowers, which +opening in all their richness to the rays of the sun, had a truly +enchanting appearance. Many of them were of the same species as those +which thrive so luxuriantly in the interior of South Africa; but the +fragrance emitted from the former is neither equally pleasant nor +equally powerful. + +We left Eggebee on the morning of the 21st, and the asses becoming +exhausted, encamped in a thick wood for the night. No village being near +at hand, we could obtain no provisions, and consequently went supperless +to bed. On the following morning we entered the city of Zaria, and took +up our quarters with Abbel Crême, Captain Clapperton’s host and friend +on his journey to Kano. The king was in the country, and did not see me +on the day of my arrival, but had left orders to have me well supplied +with provisions. His majesty returned in the evening, and sent a +messenger to say that he should be glad to see me early on the following +morning; accordingly at the time appointed I visited him with a suitable +present, which greatly delighted him; and he took the opportunity of +telling me that it was entirely for my own sake he had ordered me to be +brought back; for, said the king, “Sultan Bello is at variance with the +rulers of Fundah, and the latter would have you beheaded the moment you +set foot in his dominions, because he well knows you have been on +intimate terms with his powerful antagonist.” I, of course, acquiesced +in the opinion of his Zeg Zeg majesty, praised to the skies the +charitable spirit that had influenced him, and admired the milk of human +kindness that flowed in his veins; this well-timed flattery pleased the +monarch as much as the present had done; and in the course of the day I +received a present of two fine bullocks. Abbel Crême having intimated +that the king’s eldest son was invested with as much authority as his +father, I waited on him with a trifling gift; on which occasion he +received me very graciously. The prince was a remarkably fine young man, +apparently about twenty-two years of age, and beloved by every one. As +an especial mark of favour, I was introduced into his seraglio to see +his wives. They were fifty in number, and on my entrance were all +industriously employed in preparing cotton and thread, and weaving it +into cloth. My intrusion was not remarked till the prince said, “I have +brought the Christian to see you;” their eyes were immediately fixed +upon me at this expression, but on observing my white skin, the bashful +creatures, simultaneously dropping their work, flew with all possible +haste into their coozies, and I saw no more of them. In the afternoon +the prince offered me a really pleasing female named Aboudah (woman) for +a wife. I was almost frightened to death at the very sound of wife, yet +I accepted her with the best grace I could assume, not only to avoid +offending my royal friend, which would inevitably have been the case, if +I had refused the well-meant offer; but also that I might at least have +the satisfaction of giving the poor creature her freedom if I ever +reached the sea-coast. + +Mahomet came to me on the 23d, having just arrived from Wautorah, where +he had deserted me, and entreated to be admitted again into my service; +but the fellow had behaved so ill towards me, that I ordered him to go +about his business. I had seen enough of him to convince me that no +dependance whatever could be placed on the fidelity of hired domestics; +and therefore purchased a slave in Zaria for seven dollars, to supply +Mahomet’s place. The asses being nearly worn out from our long and +fatiguing journey, and requiring at least twenty days of rest to recruit +their strength, I exchanged them for a strong Yariba pony, which, with a +pack bullock the king had given me was fully adequate to undertake their +work. Both the monarch of Zeg Zeg and his son were warring when we +passed through their territories on our way to Kano; and it was in order +to gratify their curiosity, I verily believe, that I was so +unfortunately stopped on the road to Fundah. + +I bade adieu to the king and prince on the 24th, and, risking every +danger, pursued my journey towards the dreaded Nyffé and Yariba. + +Leaving the extensive empire of Houssa three days after, we entered +Guârie in the evening of the 27th, and on the 29th pitched our tent +outside of the capital, which is also called Guâri. Next day we found +the river, near the city, so much swollen, that I considered it would be +imprudent to attempt to cross; and on the 31st I waited on the king, +governor, or whatever he is, of Guâri, with a present of light blue and +scarlet damask, and a smart red cap. He was a man of venerable +appearance. He wished to know the reason of my having been so long on +the road from Kano, as merchants had informed him that I had quitted +that city some time before. I replied that I had attempted the road to +Fundah, it being the nearer way, but that the King of Zeg Zeg had sent +armed men after me, who had compelled me to retrace my steps. He +observed that if I wished to proceed to that kingdom then, he would send +a messenger with me, and he had no doubt, as the monarch of Fundah was +his particular friend, I should experience every kindness at his hands. +I expressed great concern at being unable to embrace his generous +proposal, having nothing good enough left to give the King of Fundah; +and on that account feeling no particular wish to pass through his +dominions. + +His Guâri majesty had in his service an eunuch, whose native town was +not far from Fundah; and, at his sovereign’s instigation, the man paid +me a visit. In the course of conversation with him, the eunuch told me +that he was born at Gibboo, a town situated on the banks of the Niger, +and about four days journey from the city of Fundah. He had often +proceeded by water from the former to the latter place in eight days, +the river running five knots an hour against him; but the voyage from +Fundah to Gibboo might easily be performed in three, or at most four +days. + +I had no opportunity of ascertaining whether the testimony of the eunuch +was actually correct; as the reports of the natives, whether owing to +the difficulty of expressing themselves so as to be understood by a +stranger, or from other causes, vary considerably. I should conceive +that the former is the chief reason of this difficulty so often +complained of; and that in their relations of rivers and streams, the +natives do not designedly deceive, but the interrogator, taking no pains +to obtain a clear idea of their meaning, forms an opinion of his own +which he fancies approaches nearest to that which his informants +themselves entertain. + +I fell in with a party of merchants in Guâri, who were so far on their +journey to Coulfo, and they begged me to accompany them to that city, in +order to repel the attacks of a desperate gang of robbers, which they +affirmed infested the main road leading to Nyffé, and had committed +dreadful excesses. Fearing there might be some foundation in this +rumour, I waited for the merchants three days; but they not having then +paid the accustomed tribute, and not seeming to have the slightest +inclination to do so in a hurry, I preferred risking the alleged dangers +in the path, to abiding longer at Guâri. + +On the 2d of August, therefore, I paid my respects to the king, who +offered a messenger to accompany me to Womba; but I declined the offer, +observing that I was not afraid to proceed with my own little party; and +on the next morning left the city, without merchants, messengers, or +guide. No robbers molested me; nor did I see a single suspicious-looking +fellow on the path; and I reached Fullindushie, the second town of that +name, after a ride of nine hours. + +The following day it rained incessantly, so that we were unable to take +down our tent, and remained under it till the 5th, when we continued our +course, and encamped outside the walled town of Kazzagebubba by four in +the afternoon. The chief apologised for sending us nothing better than +tuah and corn, on the ground of its being market-day; and this trifling +present was acknowledged on my part by a red cap and a pair of scissors, +which made the receiver proud, vain, and foolish. + +Next morning we were again in motion, at an early hour: and having +crossed a large river, in the afternoon, we pitched our tent in the +centre of a number of small, uninhabited grass huts, erected as a +temporary abode by a party of merchants some months previously. In the +night myriads of mosquitoes annoyed us so greatly that we were obliged +to set fire to the huts, in order to be rid of them. + +On the 7th we arrived at the spacious town of Womba; and, being sadly in +want of money, I despatched Jowdie, my slave, to the market with needles +to sell, which fetched fifteen cowries each, and brought me 3,400 of +them. The chief, having declared the road to be dangerous, would insist +on sending an armed guide with me; and on the morning of the ninth we +left Womba in company; halted on the south side of a large river at six +in the evening, and fixed our tent in the midst of grass huts, similar +to those already mentioned; but they harboured, as on the former +occasion, mosquitoes and vermin, so that we were under the necessity of +burning them to the ground. + +Hearing that a gaffle of merchants had been plundered, and many of them +slain, by freebooters on the road I intended taking,—instead of +journeying in a south-westerly direction to Borghoo, I travelled by +another route, and halted at the town of Beari on the evening of the +10th of August. As soon as one of the head-men was aware of my approach +to the king’s residence, he blew a blast “both loud and shrill,” on a +long brass trumpet, in token of welcome, the noise of which brought all +the principal inhabitants to the spot, who went with me into the chief’s +hut, and seated themselves in a circle round that individual and myself. +The chief was a fine handsome fellow, apparently about fifty years of +age, with a noble expression of countenance and a commanding air; and +the coozie into which I was introduced was the largest I ever saw in +Africa, being not less, I should think, than eighty yards in +circumference. The conversation was carried on through the medium of a +third person, (although the chief himself perfectly understood what I +said,) which singular custom is, I believe, peculiar to Beari, for I +never observed a similar practice at any other place. The town contained +about four thousand inhabitants, and was surrounded by a high wall and +ditch. + +On the 12th we halted at the town of Ragada; and its chief, who was +delighted to see me, gave me a whole sheep, fowls, and a jar of gear (an +ale manufactured from Indian corn). It began to rain a few minutes after +we had quitted Ragada, and continued without ceasing till we encamped a +little to the westward of Wittesa, in the afternoon; and although the +portmanteaus were secured in a thick bullock’s hide, every thing they +contained, with the exception of the papers, became completely saturated +with water. In order to dry the tent, &c. we were obliged to remain at +our encampment the following day, towards the evening of which a fellow +came outside the pavilion with a calabash of bum, and bawled out +repeatedly in an insolent tone that I should come out and drink with +him. Being busily engaged in packing up the articles that had been put +out to dry, I paid no attention at first to the vociferous bellowing of +the man; but becoming at length impudent and daring, he threatened to +break into the tent, when, thinking to intimidate him, I took a loaded +pistol and went out. I told the noisy scoundrel that if he did not +instantly quit the spot, and stop his throat, I would shoot him without +further hesitation; but this menace, instead of terrifying him, only +incensed him the more, and flourishing a lance he had with him over his +head, as quick as lightning, he made a desperate thrust at my breast; +but slipping a little on one side, I parried the weapon with my hands +when within an inch of my body, and this fortunately saved me from being +run through. This was carrying the jest a little too far, and striking +the ruffian violently with the but-end of my pistol, I desired his +companions, who stood near, and were spectators of the whole affray, to +take him instantly from the tent, or I would fire at him in earnest. The +men accordingly dragged away the intoxicated fellow to his home; but he +returned the next morning, and throwing himself at my feet, begged that +I would not inform his sovereign of the conduct he had displayed, for +that he should be beheaded if it came to the king’s ears. I promised to +accede to his wishes, on condition that he should never get tipsy again; +whereat the man evinced the most lively gratitude, and shed tears of +joy. + +We struck our tent on the morning of the 14th, and passing through the +ruins of a large town called Kabojie, halted a little to the westward of +Dogo at three o’clock in the afternoon, where we slept. In the evening I +was visited by several respectable females of the neighbouring town, who +brought with them stewed beef and tuah, for which I recompensed them +with a few beads. + +At two o’clock in the afternoon of the following day, we entered the +celebrated commercial town of Coulfo, where I was met at the gates by +the female, in whose house we lodged in our way to Kano, accompanied by +every lady of note in the town, who expressed the most lively joy on +seeing me again; but when I informed them that Captain Clapperton was no +more, they wept bitterly, and, wringing their hands, made loud +lamentations. Although the town was filled with merchants, and her own +house occupied by some of them, my kind hostess turned out her lodgers, +and gave me the best apartment in it. The merchants came from Cuttum +Kora, Youri and other provinces in Borghoo, Yariba, Kano, and Soccatoo, +to purchase Nyffé cloth (which is decidedly the best in the interior), +iron bits and stirrups, brass ornaments for saddles and bridles, brass +ear-rings, &c. &c. the traffic in which is carried on to a considerable +extent. The good old chief sent me fowls, tuah, milk, and bum; my +hostess gave me a sheep; and during my stay, this excellent old lady +supplied me with the choicest provisions daily. + +I take this opportunity of expressing my high admiration of the amiable +conduct of the African females toward me; in sickness and in health; in +prosperity and in adversity—their kindness and affection were ever the +same. They have danced and sung with me in health, grieved with me in +sorrow, and shed tears of compassion at the recital of my misfortunes. +When quite a boy, and suffering from fever in the West Indies, women of +the same race used to take me in their arms, or on their knees, sing and +weep over me, and tell me not to die, for that my mother would break her +heart to hear the news; and pointing to the ocean, they cheered my +spirits, by saying that it laved the shores of England, and would +shortly bear me on its bosom to my distant home. In fine, through +whatever region I have wandered, whether slave or free, I have +invariably found a chord of tenderness and trembling pity to vibrate in +the breast of an African _woman_; a spirit ever alive to soothe my +sorrows and compassionate my afflictions;—and I never in my life knew +one of them to bestow on me a single unpleasant look or angry word. + +I abode in Coulfo five days, and finding my Yariba pony, and the bullock +the King of Zeg Zeg had given me, unfit to bear the fatigues of a +journey to the sea coast, I exchanged the latter, with an old Turkish +jacket, for a couple of asses; but, owing to its being in so miserable a +condition, no purchaser could be found for the pony, although I offered +to sell it for a dollar. On the morning preceding my departure, poor +little Boussa Jack, the faithful companion of my wanderings, was +discovered lying dead outside my hut, having crawled from its stable, in +the night, to die as near to its master as possible. Bidding my generous +hostess an affectionate adieu, I paid my respects to the chief, and left +Coulfo in high spirits and health, on the morning of the 20th of August; +and halted at Majonka in the afternoon. In the town I met with a gaffle +of merchants on their way to Gonja, to purchase the kola, or goora nut. +Being unable to procure any kind of provisions in the place, I took my +gun, and shot a heron, not being aware that this, being a fetish bird, +is allowed only to be eaten by the chiefs; but, on being made acquainted +with the circumstance, one of the principal inhabitants, came to my +house with a loaded musket, and, using the most abusive language, +threatened to discharge it in my face. Not at all daunted, I dared him +to fire; and hinted that I should take the liberty of acquainting the +King of Nyffé with such unwarrantable behaviour, when the fellow +stammered out an apology, and sneaked off. Early on the following +morning the man returned to my dwelling, and in a tone of humiliation, +begged me not to carry my menace into execution, (which, indeed, I had +no intention of doing,) and excused the violence of his conduct, on the +plea of having swallowed too large a quantity of bum the preceding day. +At six o’clock we continued our route, halting at twelve at noon at +Dalho, on the banks of the river Quontakora, which having crossed with +some difficulty, we journeyed till sun-set, and reached the foot of a +hill, five miles to the eastward of the Niger, where we pitched our +tent, and slept. We arrived on the banks of that river on the following +day, and found it to be at least a hundred yards broader than it was on +our way to Soccatoo; and after our hallooing a thousand times, the +boatman on the opposite side came to fetch us. My poor slave, Jowdie, +who had never seen so large a body of water before, became terribly +agitated at the bare thoughts of crossing it; but getting him at last, +after much persuasion, into the canoe, I found him overpowered with +fear, and he fainted the moment he set his foot on _terra firma_. We +landed at Inguâzhilligie, where the principal inhabitants pressed us to +remain; but, having no presents to offer, I declined stopping, and +expecting to reach a village in the evening, made all possible haste to +get out of the town. The path lying through swampy ground, was horribly +bad, and the asses could only travel two miles an hour; so that at six, +p.m., the beasts being completely knocked up, we were obliged to pitch +our tent in the midst of a wild, dismal, uncultivated waste. In these +journeyings Pasko headed the party; Aboudah, Joudie, and Pasko’s wife +then followed with the baggage, whilst I myself brought up the rear; by +which arrangement the whole of them were under my own eye, and I could +watch all their motions. After erecting the tent, and previously to +retiring to rest, it was my usual custom to read aloud, from a book of +common prayer, some portion of its contents, making the servants sit +around me in a circle. By this pleasing exercise I felt unusual calmness +and serenity steal over my mind; and I slept as soundly in the bosom of +awful woods, amidst the howlings of the tempest and the pelting of the +storm—the yell of the tiger and the hollow roar of the crocodile—as if I +had been reposing on a bed of down in my own country. + +The roads were equally bad on the 23d, and the rain, which fell heavily +and incessantly, drenched us to the skin; so that about the middle of +the day we were obliged to encamp in a small village, where we attempted +to sleep. The poor beasts had stuck in the bogs several times in the +morning, on each of which occasions they were dragged from their +unpleasant situation with much difficulty, and retarded our movements +considerably. None of the inhabitants of the village understanding the +Houssa language, I entered a hut, the door of which was open, and +presenting the inmates with a few beads, made them comprehend by signs +and gestures, that we were wearied and hungry, when one lean fowl alone +could be procured; but having the good fortune to shoot a guinea-fowl, +we made a tolerable supper, and went contentedly to rest. + +A ride of eight hours on the following day brought us to the celebrated +city of Wow Wow, the birth place of Mohammed, the residence of the +_lovely_ Zuma, and the scene of our adventures with those two +illustrious characters on our former journey into the interior. I had +taken two days and a half on the road from Inguâzhilligee, while in the +dry season we had done it with ease in one. + +The day after my arrival I visited the king with a present of scarlet +and blue damask, &c. and Mohammed, although he was overjoyed to see me +at first, was greatly distressed, and wept much on hearing of the death +of Captain Clapperton in Soccatoo. He wondered at my being alive after +visiting the Falatah country, the natives of which, he maintained, were +the most barbarous and blood-thirsty in the world; and said moreover, +that I was certainly one of God’s own favorites, or I never could have +escaped so easily from their clutches. I was obliged to comply with the +monarch’s request, which indeed was tantamount to a command, to abide at +Wow Wow a few days, in order to clean seven muskets and three pistols, +which he afterwards told me belonged to the white men who were drowned +in the Quorra. They had the Tower mark on them, and were in excellent +condition. Having obtained permission of Mohammed to visit the amiable +king and queen of Boussa, whose behaviour to me, it will be recollected +was so inexpressibly kind, after my escaping from my confinement in the +Zuma elopement affair, I took old Pasko with me, and left Wow Wow early +in the morning of the 27th; but after journeying till six in the +evening, we had only got half-way to the city, in consequence of bogs +and swamps, which overspread the country. Our horses were oftentimes up +to the saddles in mire and wet, and Pasko’s legs being excessively +short, the exertions of his animal to extricate himself threw him from +its back into the filth on the path, so that the old man was covered +with dirt. The remaining part of the journey appearing yet more +difficult and dangerous, I found it impossible to go on; and being +directed by a glimmering light to a solitary hut embosomed in trees, we +slept there, and returned to Wow Wow on the following day. + +The king sent me a goat, cut up into small pieces, and a large bowl of +tuah, on the 29th, in order to make a _sadacco_ for my lamented master; +a ceremony common to many places in the interior, on the decease of any +person of consequence. The bowl of tuah and the goat’s flesh were +forwarded to a mallam, who repeated a short prayer over them; but before +this ceremony could be performed, it being necessary to place a gold or +silver coin, or in lieu thereof, an article made of either of those +metals, on the top of the bowl, I put a silver pencil-case on the tuah, +which was never returned me. As soon as the prayer had been offered up, +the consecrated articles were immediately forwarded to me, and hundreds +of the Wow Wownese flocked to my habitation to show their respect for +the memory of the deceased, by partaking of the goat’s flesh and tuah, +each person ejaculating with fervor, on conveying the food to his lips, +“God send the Christian safe to heaven!” It is unnecessary to say, that +the bowl was soon emptied of its contents. + +The day after the celebration of this mournful rite, having finished +cleaning the fire-arms of the venerable Mohammed, I requested his +permission to leave Wow Wow; but the king, smiling, told me that not +half my business was done; for that he wanted to have six charms, which +I alone could write. “The charms,” said the learned Moslem, “will be +worn round my waist, and are to possess the following virtues: 1st +charm: if my enemies think of making war on me, it shall cause them to +forget to carry such an intention into effect. 2d. If my adversaries be +on their way to Wow Wow for the purpose of warring, it shall cause them +to be dismayed and turn back. 3d. If they discharge their arrows at my +people when close to the city walls, the province of this charm shall be +to make them rebound in their own faces, and wound them. Let the fourth +prevent my guns from bursting; and the fifth hinder the persons that +hold them from receiving an injury, should they by any accident break +when loaded. The sixth and last charm is to make me the happiest and +most successful of men.” I protested my inability to comply with his +wishes, on the ground of ignorance; but the old man, wisely shaking his +cranium, said with a significant look, “Nay, Christian, don’t be so +modest; I know you have the power; it is useless to attempt to deceive +me; let me see how long it will be before you produce them.” On the +following day, therefore, I took my charms to the superstitious monarch +of Wow Wow, on which I had written scraps of old English ballads; and +the prince was so much pleased with my civility, that he paid me a +thousand compliments, and I left him in the best humour in the world. +Thus was I obliged in this, as well as in former instances, certainly +against my inclination, to copy the example the Arabs had set me, of +imposing upon the ignorance and superstition of the natives, of which I +have complained so frequently. It was utterly useless to deny them so +singular a favour on the plea of incapacity or ignorance; for on urging +either of these reasons, it was not unusual for them to say, “The white +man is ill-natured; he is no good man;” and run away with tears in their +eyes. + +Not satisfied with all I had done for him, Mohammed still wished to +detain me in Wow Wow, and very reluctantly gave me permission to depart +on the 3d of September. He also insisted on my selling or giving him my +gun and pistols, the only fire-arms that were left me. I endeavoured in +vain to coax the old gentleman to waive his pretensions; and finding him +firm in his determination of having the gun, and at least one of the +pistols, I sent them to his residence, leaving it entirely to his +generosity to pay me what he thought proper. The liberal-minded king +shortly after returned four thousand cowries (worth little more than a +dollar) as a sufficient equivalent for the gun and pistol; but on the +ensuing day made me a present of a beautiful little mare. + +The 3d of September being the day appointed for my departure, the old +king sent a message for me to visit him at an early hour; on which +occasion he wrung from me a promise to return to Wow Wow in a +twelvemonth. He displayed before me various patterns of silk to bring +with me from England, for a tobe he was to wear; and said, as I was +leaving the apartment, “Tell your countrymen, Christian, that they have +my permission to come here and build a town, and trade up and down the +Quorra; we know now that you are good men; but we did not think so when +the white men, who were drowned before Boussa, visited the country.” He +had kept me chatting with him on indifferent subjects till nine o’clock, +when we shook hands, and the old man followed me with his eyes till I +was out of sight. On reaching my dwelling, I found a party of merchants, +(whom the kind-hearted Mohammed had, unknown to me, detained in Wow Wow +on purpose that I might accompany them,) anxiously waiting my +appearance. They were to go to Khiama; and the road to that kingdom +being infested with gangs of robbers, I embraced the opportunity with +pleasure, and we left the city in company about ten o’clock in the +morning. + + + THE WIDOW ZUMA. + + +On approaching Wow Wow, I had not been able to avoid feeling the +liveliest emotions of delight. We had left it under peculiar +circumstances; and the generous, warm-hearted, beauteous Zuma, had often +crossed my thoughts! I fondly indulged the hopes of seeing that lady +again, after so long an absence; and notwithstanding my refusal to +accept of her heart and person, I had so managed this delicate affair as +not to forfeit her esteem; besides which, I had never spoken slightingly +of her person; I had never ridiculed her pretensions to beauty, and +_therefore_ I knew well enough that Zuma could not hate me. It was +sweet, particularly in Africa, to know, + + + ----“There was an eye would mark + + My coming, and look brighter when I came;” + + +—and all circumstances considered, I was well and light of heart on +drawing near to the beautiful city of Wow Wow. On the night of my +arrival, I was serenaded with the wild music of a guitar, accompanied by +a female voice. Curiosity induced me to listen to its import, when I +soon learnt that the singer was a slave from my sable inamorata, and +sent by her mistress to congratulate me on my arrival. As soon as I +ascertained that this was really the case, I immediately hailed the +young woman, and admitted her into my dwelling. She came, she said, to +welcome me back to Wow Wow, on her mistress’s account, and to express +the widow’s sorrow for the decease of Captain Clapperton. But what was +of most consequence, and what gave me infinite concern, was the news +that the amiable and impassioned Zuma was herself in “durance vile,” by +command of the perfidious Mohammed, who, fearful of the consequences of +the expected rencontre, had filled and surrounded her dwelling with +soldiers, kept a watch over her “thousand” slaves, and forbidden either +the lady or her domestics to maintain the slightest intercourse with the +“Little Christian.” This unexpected information moved me to compassion; +and desiring the female slave, who had contrived to elude the vigilance +of her guardians, and steal unobserved to my hut, to express to her +unfortunate mistress my deep regret at her predicament, I dismissed the +young woman, and returned to my couch to reflect on the pitiable +condition of the gentle Zuma, whose heart, I had no doubt, yet throbbed +with tenderness for her former love! + +On the two succeeding nights, and indeed every other that I spent at Wow +Wow, I was visited about the midnight hour by the girl above-mentioned, +with her female companions, who brought presents of honey, &c. from the +widow, and sung, or rather chanted to me at different times, the +following melancholy tale of her mistress’s feelings and misfortunes, +from the period of my leaving her to the time of my return. The _sense_ +of their strains is maintained throughout, with the strictest regard to +truth: + + + THE SONG OF ZUMA’S SLAVES. + + + Scarce, Christian, hadst thou left Wow Wow + + When Zuma’s tears began to flow; + + They’ve flowed since, they are flowing now, + + In copious streams of living woe; + + And, shunning pleasure, suffering pain, + + She wept, and wore Love’s silken chain. + + + A sadness prey’d upon her mind, + + A gloom o’erspread her lovely face, + + As, wandering far and unconfined, + + She summon’d up each matchless grace + + That charm’d her once, when white man came, + + Her warm heart fluttering at his name. + + + Oft loitering near the sounding grove, + + Or hearkening to the Quorra’s roar, + + She told the listening air her love, + + And feelings never known before; + + The listening air received her grief, + + But bore it to the yellow leaf. + + + The fire that gleam’d in her dark eye, + + The heav’n that in her gesture dwelt, + + The smile she wore when thou wast nigh, + + (Which one might think would Alla melt,) + + All passed away, and envious Care + + Usurp’d the features of the fair. + + + Her teeth soon lost their roseate hue, + + No longer shone her feet with yellow, + + Her hair, which rivall’d heaven’s own blue, + + Turn’d softly grey as that of Lello;[2] + + The goora nut had ceased to charm, + + And grateful _pitto_ scarce could warm. + + + Thus mistress felt, whilst far away + + The cruel white-faced stranger stray’d; + + Nor could he hear her tender lay, + + Which every chord of woe betray’d. + + Alas! her melancholy wails + + Were plaintive as the crocodile’s. + + + But when she learnt that thou wast near, + + She flung off suddenly her gloom, + + Colour’d afresh her clustering hair, + + And bade her teeth their red resume; + + And frolicsome and full of glee, + + Who was so glad, so gay as she? + + + To add to her inspiring bliss, + + With _pitto_ Zuma then got mellow; + + But oh! that old Mohammed is + + A wicked, most tyrannic fellow; + + For, all her hope, and all her joy, + + He bade his soldiers to destroy. + + + They rush’d into her house, and bound + + The hapless fair with thongs of leather; + + Forbade her slaves to quit the ground, + + And tied them hand and foot together. + + Thus mistress far’d, and all for thee, + + Unkind _Nasarah Curramee_.[3] + + + But, Christian, Zuma sends her love, + + As warm as when at first ye met: + + Like that which dwells within the dove, + + It lasted, and will linger yet. + + Her deep-drawn sighs and melting tears, + + Will but increase with growing years. + + + Yet, wishing thou wilt sometimes tell + + Of her, when thou art far away, + + Ere Zuma breathes a last farewell, + + To Alla she will warmly pray, + + To love, and bless, and prosper thee, + + Blue-eyed Nasarah Curramee! + + +Thus sang the maidens of the graceful Zuma; and I was not a little +grieved to find myself the cause of unhappiness, and of the infliction +of corporal punishment on so fair a creature, for she was still fresh, +and beautiful, and full of lovely life! I sent her a trifling present to +keep in remembrance of “the white-fac’d stranger;” but all my coaxing +could not melt the inflexible, the iron-hearted Mohammed to obtain an +interview with her; that sage monarch fearing that a general rebellion +would be the consequence of such a meeting. He well knew that when love +was in the question, the energetic widow was not mistress of her own +actions; whilst her power, her courage, her generosity, and above all, +her bulk and personal charms, would induce thousands to rally round her +standard, and commit all sorts of excesses. It was therefore a politic, +although certainly a most ungallant measure on the part of the powerful +prince of Wow Wow, to confine a lady so unfeelingly;—a lady whose meek, +equable disposition, and amiable spirit, had displayed themselves in +numberless instances! a lady, whose kindness and affection for the white +men was so strikingly apparent. Nevertheless Mohammed comforted me by +promising to liberate her as soon as I had reached a day’s journey from +the city. + +I had scarcely left the walls of the town, when a young woman, panting +and out of breath, overtook me. I immediately recognized her as being my +old acquaintance, the favourite and confidential slave of the widow; but +before I had time to inquire the nature of her errand, she had produced +two calabashes of honey, which her compassionate mistress had sent by +way of refreshment on my journey. I was, however, greatly shocked when +she told me it was Zuma’s desire, since fate had so ordered it, that she +could never be united to me, that I would, on my return to my own +country, let the Christians understand her extreme tenderness for white +men in general, and that if any one had courage and enterprize enough to +undertake a journey to Wow Wow, she would immediately make him her +husband, depose old Mohammed, and proclaim her spouse king in his stead. +This urgent bidding, although of course it excessively mortified my +vanity at the time, I promised to do;—and I hereby redeem the pledge I +then made! In addition to which I would observe that Wow Wow is, without +exception, the cleanest, healthiest, and most agreeable city of any in +the interior, and one in which an Englishman, if he could contrive to +forget his country and friends, might live very happily; he might spend +his time in hunting wild beasts and antelopes, sporting, dancing with +the beauties of Africa, feasting, carousing, and fishing; he might take +thousands of delightful excursions on the mysterious Quorra—keep race- +horses, and in fine live like an absolute prince, with the satisfaction, +in dying, of transmitting to his posterity a kingdom, insignificant +indeed as to its population or extent, but withal rich, brave, compact, +and flourishing. This, I am persuaded, (if an Englishman could be found +possessing the necessary qualifications to fill the throne,) would be +more effectual in checking the traffic in human beings than the united +force of all the naval powers in the world. Yet I would entreat that +individual, whoever he might be, to be merciful to the superstitious +Mohammed—whose years render him venerable—his virtues amiable,—and who, +with the exception of being rather harsh to the romantic Zuma, is as +innocent as a child; besides that he was kind to Englishmen, and above +all gave me a little mare! + + + + + CHAPTER XV. + + * * * * * + +Progress of the route. — The Author, whilst crossing a river, in the +stirrups of his horse’s saddle, is thrown from its back, and narrowly +escapes drowning. — Arrival at Khiama. — Eccentric conduct of the Prince +of that State. — Anecdote of his messenger. — Pasko’s thieving +propensities turned to account. — The Author enters Katunga, the capital +of Yariba. — His reception by Mansolah, its monarch. — Song of five +hundred of his wives. — Fetish-hut. + + +As I have before observed, it was on the morning of the 3d of September, +that, accompanied by a gaffle of merchants, I left Wow Wow. We crossed +the river Auli at noon, after much difficulty, and encamped on the south +bank, shortly after which I was visited by the mallam of the traders, +who gave me some information respecting Mr. Park, which is embodied in +my account of the death of that enterprising traveller (off the city of +Boussa) in a preceding part of this narrative. The merchants not being +ready to start as early as I could wish the next morning, we left them +behind, and, journeying at an easy rate, attained a convenient spot in +the heart of a solitary wood, where we pitched our tent. At this time I +lived like an eastern prince, generally subsisting on the best the +country afforded; and, towards evening, when I felt fatigued, Aboudah +used to bathe my temples with the juice of limes, and after washing my +feet, either sing or fan me to sleep! + +On the 5th, one of the asses became so ill on the road, that we were +obliged, in a measure, to drag him to the town of Gorkie, our halting +place, where, much against my inclination, I left him to his fate. The +poor animal, looking up into my face, seemed to reproach me for my +cruelty, and, when he saw his companion going away without him, he +strove to raise himself on his legs; but, not having sufficient +strength, fell down again, and brayed loud and piteously, which was +returned by his long-eared associate in a strain of sympathy that made +Jowdie, who attended them, shed a whole flood of tears. On the morning +of the 6th, whilst crossing a river, apparently very shallow, my horse +unexpectedly sunk several feet into a kind of soft mud; and, his legs +becoming entangled in the roots of some trees lying at the bottom, the +beast fell on his side, and, plunging violently, threw me off the +saddle. My foot was unfortunately twisted in the leather stirrups, and I +was therefore unable to disengage it for several seconds, during which +time my head being under water, I was nearly suffocated. Freeing myself, +at length, from the stirrup, I reached the other side of the stream, +greatly exhausted, and, with the assistance of my servants, succeeded in +extricating the horse also from his no less unpleasant situation. I was +afterwards informed at Khiama, by a merchant, that I might think myself +eminently fortunate in having escaped so easily, as large crocodiles, in +great numbers, infested the river. + +After sunset on the following day we arrived at Yarro, shortly after +which a thunder-storm visited the town with terrific violence, +overthrowing houses, tearing up large trees by the roots, &c. and +continued for three hours, when the tempest was suddenly appeased, and +the weather became awfully still and calm. The thunder had been +fearfully loud, shaking the earth on which our tent was fixed: and large +masses of fire, whirled across the heavens, added not a little of solemn +grandeur to this scene of devastation and terror. On the 8th we were +unable to proceed on account of the rain that fell; but next morning +struck our tent, and at noon entered the city of Khiama. + +Immediately on my arrival I paid my respects to Yarro, the king; but as +soon as he saw me, his majesty asked how I dared to come into Khiama +without having previously informed him of my approach. I answered, that +I had despatched one of his own messengers three or four days before to +acquaint him of the fact, and thought nothing more was required on my +part to insure me a warm reception. “That is of no consequence,” +rejoined the monarch, “you should have sent another this morning. Get on +horseback instantly, and return an hour and half’s journey, the way you +came. On arriving there, despatch one of your own people to acquaint me +with the circumstance, and I will order a sufficient escort to conduct +you into the city in a manner suitable to your rank and respectability.” +I was in the act of complying with this singular request, when Yarro +bawled after me—“I forgive you this time, Christian; but never be so +remiss again.” The king had been informed, a day or two before, of the +decease of Capt. Clapperton, and appeared much affected on that account +in my presence, “but,” said he, abruptly,—“What business had you with +the Falatahs? They behaved roughly to you, I understand, but surely you +had no need to visit Soccatoo.” I replied, that we were at Kano, on our +way to Bornou, when Sultan Bello sent for us, and that we were obliged, +in consequence, to abandon our intentions, and proceed with the +messengers to their sovereign. Yarro then offered to conduct me safely +to Bornou, saying that he was tributary to the sheikh of that country; +but I replied that Bello having robbed me of all the presents intended +for that monarch, it would be useless for me to think of travelling so +far, with no gifts to offer on attaining the end of my journey; and, +therefore, it would be superfluous to put him to any trouble or expense +on my account. My present to the king consisted of a quantity of damask +and silk, a red cap, silk sword-sash, two pairs of scissors, and a +hundred needles. I likewise gave him my old tent, which had become full +of holes, and was quite useless to me. + +Yarro is an eccentric and facetious character; but without exception the +finest and handsomest man I ever saw in Africa, or perhaps in any other +country. Bello, Sultan of the Falatahs, was certainly a noble looking +fellow, but not at all equal, either in regularity of features, elegance +of form, or impressive dignity of manner and appearance, to the sable +monarch of Khiama. We remained in the city five days, the conduct of the +queens, during the whole of the time, being as generous and kind as that +of their benevolent countrywomen, of whom I have so often spoken; they +supplied our wants daily, and our wishes were no sooner made known than +they were instantly complied with; so amiable and so praiseworthy are +the actions of African ladies. Yarro entertains the whimsical notion, +that as females came into the world naked, naked they ought to live in +it till their death, he does not, however, extend the same opinion to +his own sex. “Man,” said the king, “is the nobler animal, and wears +clothing in token of his superiority over the weaker part of the +creation;” and, in accordance with this singular doctrine, none of his +wives ever dare to approach his presence with any other dress than that +which nature has supplied them with. They steal, however, every +opportunity to break through the established rule, and are never happier +than when bedizened with ornaments, after the manner of their female +acquaintances. + +The people of Borghoo are much more cleanly, both in their habits and +persons, than their neighbours of Yariba, and would, generally speaking, +be more handsome, if they had not the misfortune to have weak eyes, +which impairs considerably their personal appearance. That part, which +in the eyes of others is perfectly white, is in theirs a smoky yellow; +but whether this sickly-looking hue is occasioned by the manner of +living of the people of Borghoo, or whether they derive it from nature, +I had no opportunity of judging. When he addresses the king, a Borghoo +man stretches himself on the earth as flat as a flounder, in which +attitude he lies, kissing the dust, till his business with his sovereign +is at an end; when, covering his head with sand or dust, he rises and +goes his way. When equals meet, each dropping on the right knee, they +shake hands three distinct times, a pause sometimes of several seconds +intervening between the _acts_; and, arising at the same moment, they +pursue their customary avocations. The chiefs and head-men claim, from +the lower class of people, the observance of the same humiliating +ceremony, which is exacted by the sovereign; and this manner of +salutation does not vary from Badagry to Houssa. + +Having paid my respects to the facetious Yarro on the 13th of September, +he said to me at parting,—“If your king wishes, at a future period, to +send any one to Bornou, I will conduct him to that country by a safe +route, without the necessity of his journeying even near to the Falatah +country.” He then made me a present of a strong pony; and on the +following day we left Khiama; and traversing a country laid almost under +water, halted in Subia at noon. + +The chief of the town, on my arrival, made me a present of a fat goat +and some yams, with which we made an excellent supper; and on the 15th, +being unable to reach an inhabited place, made a large fire in the midst +of a wood, in the centre of which, having previously rolled myself up in +my tobe, I lay down and slept soundly till morning. Crossing a creek, we +arrived at Mossa, a town situated on the banks of a river of the same +name, dividing Borghoo from Yariba. The stream was overflowed, and the +current so strong and rapid, that not a single inhabitant of the town +had resolution enough to ferry us to the other side, in consequence of +which we were obliged to stay without food for the whole of the day and +night, not a single goat or bowl of tuah being to be had in the place. + +I asked the king of Khiama’s messenger why he, in particular, was so +much afraid of crossing the water, observing, that I had myself passed +over many larger and more rapid rivers by swimming; and I mentioned, +amongst others, the Quorra. The man begged me, in great trepidation, as +I valued my life, not to mention the names of rivers in the hearing of +the Mossa, which was a _female_ stream, and had various rivals in the +affections of the Quorra, that river being her lawful husband! “The +Mossa,” continued the sagacious messenger, in the same solemn strain and +anxious manner, “has a jealous, capricious, cruel disposition, and if +you venture to place yourself in her power, she will certainly swallow +you up, for you have already spoken disrespectfully of her, and this sin +is unpardonable; pride being, next to cruelty, her most striking +quality. She is continually quarrelling with her husband, who is a +sober-minded stream, thinking him to be too familiar with other female +rivers; and where they meet they make the ‘devil’s own noise’ with their +angry disputes.” + +Contrary to my usual custom, I absolutely roared with laughter as soon +as the man, with the most impenetrable gravity, had finished his recital +of the amours of the licentious Quorra, and was dragging me away from +his jealous wife, the high-minded Mossa; and I had a hard task to pacify +the irritated messenger, whose sable countenance was inflated with rage +and passion at this second breach of decency and respect on my part. + +I went to the chief of the village of Mossa on the 17th, intreating him +to sell me a little food, and wishing to know whether it was his +intention to starve us, for this was the second day during which we had +tasted nothing; but although the great man, whose face shone with fat, +grew abundance of yams, he refused to part with any, affirming that he +had not sufficient wherewith to fill his own paunch. Suspecting the oily +old scoundrel’s assertion to be destitute of truth, and learning that he +had an extensive garden, I requested permission for Pasko to cut grass +in it for the use of the horses, which was sullenly granted. The +stratagem succeeded to my expectation, for Pasko, than whom a better +person for the purpose could not be found, succeeded in discovering an +immense heap of yams, concealed in a particular place in the garden; and +securing a few of them in a huge bundle of grass, he brought them to me. +If this had not been the case, I really believe we should have been +actually starved, or compelled to storm the inhospitable village. On the +following day I repeated my visit to the ill-natured chief, and demanded +a second time something to eat. He solemnly declared that he was himself +dying of hunger, and that, though he had caused a strict search to be +made the preceding evening, nothing could be found worth eating. I then +urged him to send his canoe to the opposite side of the Mossa for +provisions, which, after some murmuring, he consented to do, but first +of all made a charm, that the boat might not be damaged on its _long_ +and _perilous_ voyage. For this purpose the chief killed a fetish-fowl +(reserved for religious occasions), and sprinkling its blood in the +river, placed some of the entrails in the bow of the canoe. He then put +a broken egg in its stern, and muttering an incantation over the whole, +the vessel was pushed off the shore, and reached the opposite side in +safety; but, in returning, with a cargo of poultry and yams, the +ferryman ran it foul of a tree which unluckily lay in the middle of the +stream, in consequence of which it was upset, and immediately sinking, +the whole of the cargo swam down the envious Mossa, or was rendered +unfit to be eaten. + +The messenger of Khiama, who had so gravely acquainted me with the loves +of the river, although he was himself a sufferer from the accident, was +too much elated to contain his transports, but came to me, smiling, and +asked what I thought of his former allegations, and whether I was not +convinced it was a judgment upon me for speaking ill of the spouse of +the Quorra, that I was disappointed in my expectations. + +I was too much concerned to pay great attention to the man’s +observations, which circumstance he mistaking for sorrow and penitence +for my crime, said, “Never mind, Christian, you have only to humble +yourself a little, in sight of the Mossa, and, I dare say she will +overlook your imprudence, because she must be aware you were a stranger +to her history, when you spoke so jeeringly of her power and influence.” +I acquiesced in the messenger’s reasoning; and, clapping his hands, he +left me immediately to acquaint his companions and fellow-countrymen +with the white man’s conversion and repentance. + +The chief, in alluding to the accident, reproached me with being the +sole cause of it; and asserted that it would be dangerous to cross for +three or four days, during which time I might starve, if I would, for he +had nothing to give me. I did not think proper, however, to do so, and +despatching Pasko to the yam repository for the purpose of cutting +grass, the old fellow returned with a double portion of that grateful +vegetable, which served the whole of my domestics for three meals. Never +was Pasko so high in favour as at that period. For five successive days +his visits to the chief’s garden were regular; but he was obliged to use +all his cunning to avoid being detected by the owner of the yams, who +accompanied him on more than one occasion to the sacred inclosure. +Although at the distance of only a few feet, however, the husband of +Mattah contrived to deceive the chief; for, humming a Houssa song, with +one hand he gathered the cut grass into a heap, and with the other, +dragged out an enormous yam from the place of its concealment, and quick +as lightning hid it beneath the grass; then, binding the herbage in his +tobe, he quietly proceeded to our hut, without being suspected by the +chief of Mossa. + +The agitation of the river having somewhat subsided on the 22nd, we got +into a canoe, and with innumerable significant glances from the timid +and superstitious messenger, were landed without accident on the +opposite bank; but our asses were borne a full quarter of a mile down +the stream, before they could effect the same object. A ride of two +hours brought us in sight of Wantàtah, the frontier town in the empire +of Yariba, where we slept; and on the next morning entered the +insignificant village of Hogie, in which we rested the remainder of that +day and the whole of the succeeding one. It rained unceasingly on the +25th, and the road was rendered almost impassable; nevertheless we +succeeded in entering Katunga, the capital of Yariba, about seven +o’clock in the evening, when we immediately bent our way towards the +dwelling which we had occupied on our journey to Soccatoo. + +Mansolah would not let me visit his palace the morning after our +arrival, fearing it might _wet my feet!_ but condescended to expose his +own royal person to the like inconvenience by coming to see me at my +habitation. On this occasion he was attended by five hundred of his +wives (out of two thousand!) and made a sudden pause on approaching +within a few yards of me. Each of his half-dressed ladies held a light +spear in the left hand, with the right leg slightly bent; and, leaning +partially on their weapon, the end of which rested on the earth, with +unspeakable grace they began their song of welcome, and dirge for my +master’s death. The music of their voices was wild but sweet, and +reverberating from the hills, had a singularly saddening, although by no +means a disagreeable, effect; and these were the strains they sang: + + + SONG OF THE WIVES OF THE KING OF YARIBA. + + + Welcome, white stranger, to Mansolah’s land! + + Appear, appear! + + Com’st thou with presents or with empty hand, + + Thou’rt welcome here. + + + Forget thy sorrows, feed thy grief no more; + + Awake to glee: + + And dance delighted, as thou didst before, + + Around our tree. + + + Mansolah greets thee, with two thousand wives; + + And small and great + + Have urg’d the gods to save the white men’s lives + + From Nyffé hate: + + + From Borghoo charms, and wild _feticherie_— + + Falatahs’ spear; + + From the dead venom of the kongkonie;[4] + + And Arab lair. + + + Yet one hath fallen where no palm-trees grow, + + Nor cocoas dwell: + + Where savage bosoms feel not others’ woe, + + There Bebbo[5] fell. + + + O Yaribeans! mourn his early death! + + (Mansolah weeps,) + + For the Falatah draws his infant breath, + + Where white man sleeps. + + + Not one from earth into his grave was hurl’d, + + Poor lonely thing! + + No kind companion in the other world + + Will comfort bring.[6] + + + Curse the Falatahs! curse them, O ye gods! + + Their pride lay low! + + Rise, Yaribeans! shake your trembling rods! + + Bend, bend the bow! + + + Swift from your arrows as the bounding doe + + The Moslems fly. + + Crush them, ye mighty chiefs! o’erwhelm the foe! + + Or nobly die. + + + The Christian’s blood is on them,[7] and the curse + + Of God prevails. + + Haste, minstrels, haste! in palaces rehearse + + These wond’rous tales. + + + Tell ye the world that white-fac’d strangers will + + A welcome have; + + Or like the Boussans, they will fight until + + They find a grave. + + +Whilst the young women were singing, many of the listening multitude +were greatly affected and shed tears, and all faintly joined in the +strains at intervals. The gesticulation and actions of the ladies +corresponded with their expressions: at one instant the spear was lifted +slowly from the ground, and handed lightly; and at another it was +flourished over their heads with inconceivable animation and rapidity. +At the conclusion of this singular ceremony the assembled thousands +quietly dispersed; and the singers returned, in the order they had come, +to the palace of their sovereign. Mansolah shortly afterwards came into +my dwelling, and, expressing in simple and natural terms his sorrow for +my master’s death, questioned me pretty closely as to the reasons for +our visiting Soccatoo. I returned him the same answer as the king of +Khiama received from me a short time before, which appeared to satisfy +him, and after a conference of two hours he left me. The monarch was +richly dressed in a scarlet damask tobe, ornamented with coral beads, +and short trousers of the same colour with a light blue stripe, made of +country cloth; his legs, as far as the knees, were stained red with +hennah, and on his feet he wore sandals of red leather. A cap of blue +damask, thickly studded with handsome coral beads, was on his head; and +his neck, arms, and legs, were decorated with large silver rings. Before +leaving me, I offered his sable majesty the horse I had purchased in +Kano, (a fine animal that had carried me nearly the whole of the way +from that city,) and regretted my inability to make him a more valuable +present, promising, however, that if he permitted two messengers to +accompany me from Katunga, I would, on my arrival at Badagry, send back +something more befitting his exalted station. Mansolah accepted the +beast with the usual demonstrations of gratitude; and in the evening +acknowledged the favour by despatching a slave to our house with a fine +fat goat and a quantity of yams. + +The reason why Mansolah had so immense a number of wives is easily +accounted for by the fact that the husband of every female in his +dominions, who has a daughter unfortunate enough to be endowed with a +greater share of personal beauty than the generality of her sex, is +obliged, under the severest penalty, to present her to his sovereign. +Before the interview between the parties takes place, it is customary +for the father to procure a fatted sheep and a bowl of rice, which are +borne by the girl to his majesty’s dwelling as a marriage portion; and +if it should so happen that the man is too poor to obtain this present, +he must on no account fail to send his daughter, although she is taken +no notice of till that be received by the monarch. When this is the +case, the friends of the young woman subscribe amongst themselves a sum +of money sufficient to purchase the sheep and rice, on the receipt of +which she is instantly admitted into the royal favour and protection, +and the greatest familiarity from that hour prevails between the prince +and his newly-married bride. + +After they have passed a _certain_ age, the king’s wives are set at +liberty, and permitted to trade up and down the country in the various +articles of native produce and manufacture; the profits of which are +uniformly given to the sovereign. The younger ladies employ their time +in the adornment of their bodies, and beautifying their teeth and hair, +in order to make themselves the more agreeable and fascinating in the +eyes of their imperious master,—to whom they sing, in a kind of +recitative, several times in the day, and whom they fan to sleep at +night. + +The principal fetish-hut at Katunga is the largest and most fancifully +ornamented of any of a similar kind in the interior of Africa. It is a +perfect square building, each side of which is at least twenty yards in +length. Directly opposite the entrance is an immense figure of a giant +bearing a lion on its head, carved in wood, and beautifully executed. +About twenty-six or twenty-seven figures, in bas-relief, are placed on +each of the sides of the hut, but all in a kneeling posture, with their +faces turned towards the larger figure, to which they are apparently +paying their devotions. On the heads of the small figures are wooden +images of tigers, hyenas, snakes, crocodiles, &c. exquisitely carved; +and painted, or rather stained, with a variety of colours. These are the +gods of the Yaribeans; and the king, accompanied by his caboceers, and +other principal men, repairs to this hut, to offer up his adorations +before the idols, and make complaints if any mishap has attended their +warriors, &c. Whenever Mansolah enters the sacred temple, he immediately +uncovers his head, and prostrates himself on the floor, which is stained +crimson, and very highly polished; and his example is instantly followed +by his attendants. In this position they sometimes remain for an hour +together, either making loud lamentations, and imploring the assistance +of their wooden gods; or, after repeating their grievances to them in an +under tone, ask the reasoning of their ill success or misfortune, and +entreating the figures to be more propitious to their undertakings, and +deal more kindly with them. + +None of the lower orders of people are admitted into this solemn +sanctuary, but prostrate themselves, and pray, without the walls. One +poor old woman alone is allowed to enter, whose business it is to keep +the interior of the hut perfectly clean, and even she dares not make her +appearance till after her sovereign has said his daily prayers, and left +the place. + +There are fifty other fetish-huts at Katunga, on a smaller and less +magnificent scale than the one above alluded to; and public worship is +performed in all of them before sunrise every morning. If, however, any +thing particular takes place in the course of the day, the inhabitants +make it their business to repair to their temples, and, acquainting +their gods with the circumstance, make observations on it, and express +their gratitude or disappointment with considerable vehemence. + +When an infant dies, the mother invariably wears, suspended from the +neck, and reaching to the bosom, a figure of a child, about six inches +in length, and of proportionable thickness, which is carved in wood, and +regarded by the people as a token of mourning. This is worn for an +indefinite length of time, according to the inclination or caprice of +the bereaved parent; and many women do not cast it aside until the +expiration of six, eight, and even twelvemonths, during which they chat +to and caress the wooden figure, as if it had been instinct with life +and motion, possessed of all the playfulness and endearing manners which +distinguished their offspring when alive, and capable of enjoying the +effects of maternal tenderness. This singular custom is confined +exclusively to Yariba. + + + + + CHAPTER XVI. + + * * * * * + +Ebo the celebrated fat Eunuch — The Yaribeans not very delicate in the +choice of what they eat — Dress of the different people in the interior +— Treatment of invalids — Tattoo marks of different nations — The Author +is urged to become Son-in-law to Mansolah, Generalissimo of his Forces, +and Prime Minister of State — Names of Towns — Departure from Katunga — +Anecdote of a gang of robbers — Mungo Park’s son — Arrival at Badagry. + + +Ebo, the noted eunuch who has so often been spoken of, and whose mal- +practices produced great uneasiness to us on our proceeding towards +Kano, had been taken into favour by his sovereign, during my absence +from Katunga, and promoted to the highest offices of the state. He came +to me, paunch and all, on the Sunday after my arrival at Katunga, and, +laughing heartily at his former frolics, told me he had no need to make +such shifts then in order to procure any delicacy he might want, for +that he had only to hint his wishes, when a bowl of dogs’ or asses’ +flesh, a dish of fried caterpillars, or a saucepan of ants or locusts, +was smoking before him in a moment! I congratulated the lucky eunuch on +his good fortune, and the amplitude of his body, which he took very +good-humouredly; and, during my stay in the city, Ebo the fat gourmand +was my best friend. + +We had heard in Nyffé that the same eunuch had attempted to poison us +through hired ruffians; but his conduct throughout was marked by so much +kindness and affability, that I did not give the rumour a moment’s +belief. There was one action of his, however, that I cannot pass by +without remark, although it detracts greatly from his good qualities; it +is as follows: After begging of me my remaining pistol, two dollars, and +a scarlet cap, he also wished to obtain my ass, to make a fetish, but I +refused to part with the animal, on the plea that I should want him +myself on my journey to Badagry. Ebo did not urge his request a second +time; but, in the evening, having sent for him from a neighbouring +pasture, I found the poor beast wounded in the side by two poisoned +arrows, which were still sticking in the flesh; and this malicious +action had, no doubt, been effected at the instigation of the +disappointed eunuch. The poison did not act so suddenly as I expected, +for the ass languished for six days; at the end of which time, being +reduced to a skeleton and in great agony, I ordered Jowdie and Pasko to +take him to a short distance and cut his throat; which was presently +complied with. + +No sooner, however, had the king been made acquainted with the +circumstance, than he commanded the carcase to be cut into quarters, and +conveyed to his house; which having been promptly executed, (his majesty +himself superintending the roasting department, and having assembled his +wives and head-men,) they all squatted themselves on the earth, and made +a sumptuous meal on the diseased ass-flesh. Wishing to display his +gratitude for so delicious a treat, Mansolah sent me a goat and a +thousand cowries as an acknowledgment for the pleasure it had afforded +him. + +Ebo one day showed me a small apartment in his house filled with cowries +(being worth about fifty dollars English money), and asked with an +exulting air, if the king of my country was half so rich as himself. +“Half so rich as yourself!” I rather indiscreetly replied; “Why, my +sovereign could purchase you, your monarch, and the whole of Yariba, and +not miss the money the purchase of it would require.” “Indeed,” rejoined +Ebo, angrily, “thou liest;” and without further ceremony was about to +fling me into the yard; when, hastily retracting my expression, I +assured the irascible eunuch that I spoke only in jest, to try his +temper; which apology somewhat appeased the gigantic black, who, +laughingly accusing himself of being rather too quick when his own honor +and that of his country were concerned, invited me to partake with him +of a dozen of stewed rats, and a calabash of _pitto_! + + + FOOD OF THE PEOPLE. + + +The people of Yariba are not very scrupulous in the choice of food, +eating indiscriminately whatever comes in their way; frogs, monkeys, +dogs, cats, with rats and mice, and various other kind of vermin; +nothing in fact is prohibited, and nothing is rejected by their hungry +maws. Locusts, and black ants, just as they are able to fly, are a great +luxury; and, as with the ancient Romans, caterpillars are in very high +estimation; the former are fried in butter or oil, and said to be +delicious, Pasko himself affirming that they were land-shrimps; whilst +the latter are stewed and eaten with yams and tuah, and consumed by all +ranks with the most astonishing avidity. Ass-flesh is even more esteemed +in Yariba than venison in England; and, like venison, the stronger the +odour it exhales, the more delicious is it to the refined palate of the +higher ranks; the lower orders being forbidden to eat of it in that +country. + +On my journey from Wow Wow, halting near a small river, I was visited by +a party of Yaribeans, who had been at Nyffé purchasing hides for the +Katunga market, and were on their way to the capital. They solicited +permission to place themselves under my protection, and slept near me +for the night. A gaffle of merchants had rested on the same spot about a +week before, and had left a dead ass behind them, which emitting an +intolerable scent, the Yaribeans were soon sensible that so rich a prize +was at hand, and, snuffing up the tainted air, went immediately in quest +of it. Being guided by the powerful smell, they shortly after discovered +the corrupted carcase, and fell to blows as to which should have the +most approved joints; but the dispute being at length amicably adjusted +by a mutual agreement to roast the animal whole in its skin, a large +fire was instantly kindled, and when the body became warm through, it +was cut up on the grass, the party sitting in a circle round the smoking +beast. After they had made a hearty and savoury repast on its flesh, the +bones were carefully picked and preserved; for, as in the case of Moses’ +brazen serpent amongst the Israelites, every person afflicted with a +disease of any kind, by simply looking at a tooth or a bone, was to be +immediately made whole: so ridiculous are the superstitions of the +Yaribeans. + +People of that kingdom also go in companies into countries where the dog +is not eaten by the natives, to purchase that animal; and they return +with many hundreds annually to Katunga. They then confine the dogs so +procured in huts set apart for the purpose; and after fattening them, +publicly expose the flesh for sale in the market; and a fatted dog will +at all times fetch a higher price than the finest goat. Yaribeans +likewise visit Nyffé, and other nations and provinces, to purchase the +_hides_ of bullocks, horses, asses, &c. and having deprived them of hair +by the application of boiling water, they stretch and dry them in the +sun. When the moisture becomes evaporated by this means, the skin is cut +into small square pieces and stewed in corn and rice; in which state it +is is hawked through the streets of Katunga, and being esteemed by all +ranks as a dainty morsel, is eagerly purchased. + +Cats are becoming so scarce in Yariba by reason of the bitter +persecution that is carried on against them unceasingly by the half- +starved slaves, that they are seldom seen, and in the course of a few +years, in all probability, these useful animals will be wholly +exterminated. Frogs also are much in request, and although they are +certainly not considered by the Yaribeans quite so delicious to the +palate as the French imagine them; their flesh is by no means regarded +as coarse eating. Some of these creatures are of extraordinary size, and +I saw one served up at Ebo’s table, which could not have weighed, I am +sure, much less than five pounds. The consumption of lizards is confined +almost solely to very poor people and slaves; for the latter being +allowed little to eat by their masters, are often necessitated (leaving +their inclination out of the question) to consume the most filthy +things; and nothing surely can be half so disgusting as a lizard roasted +whole in its skin, and smoking before a hungry Yaribean. + +On feast days, however, both poor persons and slaves fare more +sumptuously, a couple of rats, tails and all, being no strangers to +their boards on such festivities; and sour milk may be had in abundance. +The mode of preparing food does not vary much in any of the interior +countries; but in no kingdom or land whatever is less taste and +refinement displayed in the selection of dishes, than in the empire of +Yariba. + +The vegetable food of the Yaribeans consists of yams, plantains, rice, +seven or eight varieties of corn, &c. The yam is the general food of +both rich and poor, and by far the most useful vegetable of the whole. +It is cultivated to a considerable extent as far in the interior as +Nyffé; but it is no where to be met with after one leaves that kingdom. +When drawn from the earth, the root of the yam is cut into thin slices, +and dried in the sun, after which it is beat to a powder in huge wooden +mortars, and reserved as an agreeable and healthful summer food. + +The manner in which the people prepare their food is either by roasting, +or boiling and stewing. Owing to the heat of the atmosphere, and the +inconvenience of smoke (the use of chimneys being as yet unknown to +them), fires are kindled by every individual in the yard surrounding his +hut, which is used for domestic purposes; but there are also persons who +obtain a decent livelihood by dressing victuals publicly in the market; +and these men are furnished with a kind of earthern stove, having large +holes in the bottom, in order to admit the fire which is kindled +underneath. On the top of the stove other apertures are formed at a +convenient distance from each other, so as to admit sufficient heat to +the earthern vessels, which, being filled with lizards, rats, cats, +frogs, &c. are placed on them, in order that their contents may be all +dressed in as short a time as possible. + +During the rainy months fires are kindled in sheds purposely constructed +for the occasion, it being impossible for them to burn in the open air +by reason of the unabating violence of the weather. Mornings and +evenings are the periods generally allotted for the preparation of food, +and a fire is rarely seen in the intermediate hours of the day. The yam- +flour is usually made into a solid pudding by being mixed with water, +and boiled in much the same manner as common paste in England; and a +person is employed in stirring it over the fire with a stick till the +whole is sufficiently dressed, which done, the pudding is turned out +into a calabash or bowl, and a quantity of either honey, oil, or butter +from the maccadania tree being mixed with it, the paste is eaten with +the fingers. Animal food is roasted on a wooden stake thrust into the +earth before the fire, and after one side is properly dressed, the meat +is simply turned on the other, the use of the jack, or indeed any +article at all answering to it being unknown to the people of Western +and Central Africa. + +In the vicinity of Katunga, and most other large towns, indigo is +cultivated to an extent of from five to six hundred acres. When ripe it +is cut and thrown into large circular pits, lined with clay, previously +hardened by fire; and a quantity of water being poured upon it, the +plant is suffered to rot and ferment, when the contents of the pit soon +becoming of the substance of a thick paste,—without any further +preparation, and without detaching the stalks and leaves from the seed, +it is taken out and made into irregular masses, about the size of a +man’s head. In this state it is left to dry in the sun, and when +sufficiently hard, is exposed for sale at the markets. Male and female +dyers are numerous in Yariba, and the process of dyeing is as simple as +can well be conceived. After the lumps of indigo are dissolved in water, +the liquid is strained through wicker baskets, till it becomes +sufficiently pure, when it is fit for immediate use. Cloths being +immersed in the dye, are suffered to remain in it for a period not +exceeding twenty-four hours, and are taken out and hung on lines +surrounding the work-shops. When perfectly dry, the articles are laid on +a large flat block of wood, smoothed by hatchets and knives, and a man +beats them with a wooden instrument, not unlike an English cricket-bat, +till they become sufficiently smooth and glossy; in which state they are +either offered for sale, or returned to their owners. + + + DRESS. + + +The apparel of the Yaribeans consists of full trousers, tied with a +running string to the waist, but extending no lower than the knee; a +short sleeveless tobe with large holes for the arms, made of country +cloth dyed with various colours; a fantastically-made cloth cap, and +leather boots; in addition to which the higher classes sometimes make +use of red, yellow, and purple silk velvet, obtained from Europeans on +the coast. The dress of the people from Badagry to Yariba differs very +little from that worn by the natives of the countries interjacent +between the latter kingdom and Houssa. Very poor people and slaves use +no other wearing apparel than the skins of goats, sheep, monkeys, or +other animals, fastened to the waist by a string; and these being +brought between the legs, are tied to the band behind. The more +respectable part of the community in Houssa wear very large full tobes +and trousers, made of extremely narrow country cloth, but beautifully +dyed; and a cap of white cotton. Mallams, however, have a red woollen +cap (instead of the white one), and a white turban. Boots, shoes, and +sandals, of red and yellow leather, are manufactured in a manner similar +to those of Yariba, and worn by poor and rich—mendicant and prince. + + + MANNER OF CROSSING STREAMS. + + +The people of Yariba have a singular mode of crossing rivers and +streams, when the violence and rapidity of their currents prevent them +from plying canoes on them with safety. Instead of the ordinary ferry- +boat, two calabashes, or gourds, of the largest size, are selected for +the purpose; and, the tops of each being previously cut off, the two +bodies are sewed together, and rendered water-proof by the application +of a kind of gum. The two gourds thus united form a hollow sphere; and +are tolerably well adapted for the conveyance of passengers, &c. even +through the swiftest currents, as will be seen by the annexed engraving. +The goods, of whatever nature they may be, are first placed on the +floating gourd, and their owner then grasps the latter firmly with both +arms; and a perfect equilibrium is preserved by the ferryman placing +himself opposite the passenger, and laying hold of both his arms. They +being thus, face to face, the owner of the fragile bark propels it +through the water with dexterity and despatch; and few instances are on +record of accidents occurring by this means, even in the height of the +rainy seasons, when the country is one immense swamp. In Houssa, &c. the +natives use bamboo rafts, which answer the same purpose as the above, +although not with equal ease or celerity. + +[Illustration] + + + TATTOOING. + + +The operation of tattooing, by which the different races in Africa are +distinguished from each other much more easily than by any natural +peculiarity in the colour of the skin, or their general appearance, is +performed by a sharp iron instrument, somewhat larger than, but +certainly not unlike the blade of a common English pen-knife; and +children generally, at the age of six or seven years, undergo this +painful process, which indeed cannot be effected without putting the +poor creatures to excruciating torture. I saw two girls tattooed at +Katunga, in the following manner: The hands and feet of each being first +bound, the head was held by the father, and the operator began his work +by making five incisions on the forehead with the instrument above +described; the little sufferer uttering the most piercing screams, till +from hoarseness she was unable longer to cry aloud, or speak so as to be +understood. This being done, the man cut eight other deep gashes on the +left cheek; and the only means by which one could then judge of the +child’s distress was by observing a large pool of mingled blood and +tears on the ground, fed by a copious stream flowing from the face of +the little innocent. + +The patients are invariably left to bleed till they become insensible; +and death frequently occurs in weakly cases. After some days, when their +strength is in a measure restored, they are privileged to beg in the +streets till their wounds completely heal; and this does not take place +oftentimes for four or five months after the operation, the children, +during that long period, carry slender branches of trees in their hands, +in order to scare away flies, which, on alighting upon the lacerated +face, cause considerable pain, and occasion it to swell prodigiously. +This imparts to the countenance an unsightly appearance; one than which +nothing can be more truly disgusting; and many of these pitiable objects +we observed in the deepest misery, wandering through the streets of +Katunga, and other cities, and almost starving for want of food. + +When a Yaribean perpetrates ever so trivial a crime, the tattoo mark of +his nation is so crossed by other incisions, inflicted upon him by the +ministers of justice, that it becomes utterly undistinguishable, and the +impression of another people is substituted on the other side of the +face in its stead. With this brand, which can never be erased, he quits +his native country, in which he was looked upon as + + + ------“A mark for Scorn + + To point his slow unmoving finger at;” + + +and dies in a foreign land, unpitied and unknown. + +Circumcision, which is generally performed on both sexes at an early +age, is universally adopted in all the interior countries. + +The subjoined are the tattoo marks of the natives of the most +considerable countries in Western and Central Africa. + +[Illustration: _Borghoo._ — _Nyffé._ — _Yariba._ — _Cuttum Cora._ — +_Houssa._] + +The Bowchee people have no mark whatever on the face, but in lieu +thereof pierce the lobe of the ear, and the soft part of the septum of +the nose, with a sharp instrument; and hang divers ornaments from holes +so formed. + +The wives of the great people of Katunga are distinguished by having the +hair cut and shaved into a number of small patches like the ace of +diamonds, but larger; and that of the wives of the humbler classes is +cut entirely off, leaving the head as bald and bright as a barber’s +basin. + +In the empire of Yariba the sick are treated with neglect, and even +cruelty. The moment a man, woman, or child, is attacked with illness, no +matter what the nature of the complaint may be, they are instantly +conveyed by their relatives to the distance of half a mile from the +town, and left to lie along the bare ground, in a state of the most +perfect nudity, underneath the branches of trees; and the people are +acquainted with no remedy whatever to alleviate the virulence of their +disorder, or assuage the intensity of their sufferings. Food is +sometimes conveyed to them by their nearest of kin, the law obliging +them to do so; but sometimes they die from actual starvation. Often the +lower class of people are so very poor that they have not a sufficiency +to satisfy the appetites of their healthy offspring, and therefore feel +no disposition to part with the little they have, to those (perhaps aged +parents) who are sinking under the influence of a contagious disease. It +sometimes happens, too, that these miserable outcasts are snatched from +their insecure asylum under the trees, and devoured by wild beasts. +Native travellers are now and then moved to compassionate their +sufferings, by reason of the piteous lamentations which they make; but, +shrinking with terror from the distressed objects, they throw yams to +them at the distance of twenty or thirty yards, and never go near enough +to inquire into the nature of their malady, or further relieve their +wants. Whenever an unhappy invalid is carried off by wild beasts, his +countrymen believe him to have been a very wicked man, so bad indeed as +to have been unworthy the succour and protection of their gods, and +consequently deserving the fate which his supposed evil conduct and +irreligious life had so signally occasioned. Many of these poor +creatures, whose hollow groans and moanings of distress have attracted +me to the spot, have I seen in the last stage of existence, some of them +rolling in the dust, and convulsively writhing from excessive pain, and +some reduced to perfect skeletons for want of food, their bones jutting +out of their diseased flesh, and exhibiting a more ghastly spectacle +than can well we imagined: others again have I found speechless and +almost cold; and on one occasion in particular, whilst I was gazing on a +poor wretch who was far beyond the reach of succour, he fixed his hollow +eyes so piteously upon my countenance, seeming to implore me to let him +die in peace, that I could not refrain from shedding tears. + +This barbarous and inhuman custom of exposing invalids in the open air, +under the shade of trees, is confined to Yariba, the people of Badagry, +and the natives of Borghoo, Nyffé, and Houssa, suffering their sick to +expire quietly in their own houses, if, after swallowing a liquid which +is prepared for them by their priests, or the expounders of the Moslem +faith, the patients derive no apparent benefit from the medicine. This +preparation consists either of a bowl of water into which a charm +written with ochre on a bit of wood, has been previously washed off, or +else a decoction of the bark of a tree, rendered holy by an incantation +of a fetish priest. + +The Yaribeans have the reputation of being the best bowmen in Africa; +and the young men soon become excellent marksmen by frequent practice +and steady perseverance, which latter is a virtue that falls to the lot +of but few nations in the central parts. They amuse themselves daily by +attempting to discharge arrows through a small hole made for the purpose +in a wall, at a great distance from the standing ground, and I have +frequently seen individuals accomplish this difficult task three +successive times, when upwards of a hundred yards from the spot; but it +requires great and unceasing practice to attain to so much perfection in +the art. Quantities of muskets are procured from the coast, but they are +of comparatively little use to the people, who know not how to handle +them with effect; and it is not unusual for them to carry these weapons +to battle without either powder or ball. If worsted in an engagement, +however, in order to accelerate their speed, they throw them away, and +their enemies eagerly lay hold of the empty muskets for their own use. + +Besides other sources of revenue, the King of Yariba levies a tax on +every one that enters the gates of Katunga with a load, of whatever it +may consist, and also appoints persons to collect a tribute from every +person attending the market with any saleable commodity. The amount of +duty is always governed by the value of the beast or article sold, which +is decided by accredited agents: for example, a handsome horse imported +from Borghoo, or any other country, is liable in the market to a tax of +two thousand cowries; whereas if the animal so exposed for sale be less +handsome, or of inferior value, the sum demanded decreases regressively +in amount. The same rule holds good in regard to bullocks, country +cloth, &c. + +We were mistaken in supposing the crown of Yariba to be hereditary, the +chiefs invariably electing, from among the wisest and most sagacious of +their own body, an individual who is invested with the supreme dignity, +immediately after the decease of a monarch. On the dissolution of a +ruling prince, his eldest son, together with his favourite wife, and +several head men of the kingdom, voluntarily destroy themselves by +swallowing poison, and are inhumed in the same grave with their +sovereign, to assist him in his wanderings in the other world. At their +solemn sacrifices, the Yaribeans slay for the occasion old and infirm +persons, whose life, say they, is a burden to them; and who manifest no +reluctance whatever to yield up their pain and misery for the honour of +the gods. With this solitary exception, the people may be considered as +mild in their manners and charitable in their dealings. + +The king strongly urged upon me to remain in Katunga with him, and tried +every means to accomplish his wishes. Amongst other inducements held +out, Mansolah was graciously pleased to introduce me to his daughters, +four of the most beautiful of whom he desired me to select, and make my +wives. He also offered me the enviable situations of prime minister and +great war-chief, or generalissimo of his forces (both of which offices +are highly respectable in Yariba), and in case I accepted them, his +majesty would make me a present of slaves, horses, and indeed every +thing needful to maintain an establishment correspondent to the +splendour of my rank, and the dignity of my appearance. It being +entirely out of my power to resist the pressing solicitations of the +king, I pointed at four of the princesses (who stood bolt upright before +me, giggling and laughing,) as being the most lovely of their sex, and +as worthy to share the bed and fortune of the prime minister of Yariba! +I desired that the ladies might resume their apparel, and take care of +themselves till my return from England, for that it was absolutely +necessary I should visit the country of my fathers before I could think +of settling permanently in a strange and distant land. “But will your +king,” eagerly inquired Mansolah, “will your king give you permission to +come back again?” “Without doubt,” I replied. “I shall then be master of +my own actions, and follow the bent of my inclination in all things.” +“That is right, that is right,” replied the monarch; “you shall be my +son-in-law, and have the administration of my affairs, both foreign and +domestic; you shall drive my adversaries from my country: it will then +be a good country, and peace will reign in the land.” I thanked Mansolah +for his kindness, and observed that I sincerely hoped, on my return, I +should not be dazzled by the acquisition of so much glory and power as +his good nature and condescension would necessarily confer upon me! + +As soon as I had done speaking, a loud noise was heard of peals of +laughter, cracking of fingers, whistling, and clapping of hands, +proceeding from the quarter in which the princesses of the blood were +huddled together, who took the opportunity my silence afforded them, of +expressing the rapture they felt at the hope of my so soon becoming +their near relative, and of a white man superintending the domestic +policy of their government, and leading their countrymen to battle and +to victory. The favourite queen, who was present at the interview, as +soon as the tumult had subsided, begged me to bring her a looking-glass +from England; and Ebo, the fat eunuch, who was also present, evinced not +the least spark of jealousy, but hinted that a good sword from the same +country would be more than acceptable; whilst Mansolah, the heroic +prince of all the Yaribeans, was so much overpowered at the very idea of +my becoming his son-in-law, that he stood moping and whimpering by +himself, deprived of the power of asking for a single favour! + +An Englishman, tired of his country, would be delighted with Yariba, for +it is a fine kingdom, peopled with a mild, affectionate, and unassuming +race, by whom he would be regarded almost as a deity, and amongst whom +he could end his days with pleasure. At the decease of the reigning +monarch, with very little art, and, I may venture to say, no opposition, +he might cause himself to be proclaimed king, and thus be sultan of the +mighty empire of Yariba! Becoming familiar with the usages of his sable +subjects, with two pieces of cannon he might drive every Falatah out of +his dominions, and restore the kingdom to its ancient splendour. But +above all things, if he felt so inclined, the slave-trade, by his +influence and example, would gradually be abhorred by his subjects, who, +if they saw that their monarch professed the same principles, would +besides eagerly embrace the mild and simple precepts of the Christian +religion. The people of Katunga had become so familiarized to me during +my residence amongst them, that I had ceased to excite that intense +curiosity displayed on my first arrival; and, next to their sovereign, I +was treated with the highest respect by all ranks and ages, and +interrupted in long rambles only by prostrations, and other +demonstrations of veneration, peculiar to the Yaribeans. + +The names of towns in Africa, as well as of individuals, have something +descriptive and significant in them; for instance—_Wow Wow_, a great +fool;—_Inguazhilligee_, ferry-boat;—_Boussa_, a kind of +ale;—_Fullindushie_, a white stone;—_Kassagebubba_, a large fowl, &c. +&c. Slaves are called by all manner of names; sometimes from any +singularity in their appearance, or defect in their understandings—and +sometimes by terms expressive of abhorrence or contempt; but much more +frequently they have the names of birds, beasts, or reptiles, bestowed +upon them by their masters,—thus one is called simply “woman vulture,” +or “man vulture;”—“woman snake,” or “man snake;” and Pasko’s Soccatoo +wife was generally known by the elegant appellation of “woman elephant;” +whilst others are distinguished by the name of a certain river, tree, +mountain, or other natural object. + +I remained at Katunga nearly a month, experiencing every species of +friendship and good nature from its inhabitants; and on the 21st, when I +intimated my desire to pursue my journey to the sea-coast, Mansolah sent +me four thousand cowries, with a quantity of trona to sell on the road. +The king also ordered his head messengers to accompany me, commanding +them to desire the chiefs of every town through which the main path lay, +to contribute, according to their ability, to the support of myself and +attendants; which command we afterwards found on various occasions to be +eminently serviceable. + +The following morning early, I paid my respects to the prince, and +having taken an affectionate leave of him, once more continued my +course, in good spirits, and better health than I had enjoyed for a long +period previously. Journeying till the 8th of November, and meeting with +few incidents worth relating, we arrived at Engwâ, the town in which it +will be recollected Captain Pearce died and was buried, on his way to +Katunga. I found the railing and fence, which had been placed round the +grave, washed away by the rains, and the piece of wood, on which I had +engraved his name, &c., had disappeared, most probably from a similar +cause. The only means by which I was enabled to recognize the spot, was +the circumstance of the earth over the grave having sunk considerably, +and being quite destitute of vegetation, whilst the soil near it was +covered with luxuriant herbage. The chief told me that having received +no orders to repair the damage, occasioned by the floods, he had +suffered the fence to fall to decay; but, at my own suggestion, he +promised to erect a shed over the spot as soon as the sun had dried the +grass. I made him a trifling present to encourage him in his intention, +and preparations for that purpose had already commenced previously to my +departure from Engwâ. + +Leaving Tschow, a day’s journey on the Katunga side of Jannah, on the +11th, I met, a few miles only from the town, a gaffle of merchants, +hastening with the utmost speed and confusion towards it. They suddenly +stopped on perceiving me, and a great number of them bawled out at the +same moment, that they had been attacked by a band of robbers, who had +overcome them, carrying off all their goods; and that if I did not go +back to Tschow, with them, I should be murdered in a few moments, as the +desperadoes were close at their heels. Instead of returning, however, I +entreated them to go on with me, assuring them that with their +assistance, the property, of which they had been so unlawfully deprived, +should be recovered, and restored within half an hour; but the timid +merchants, being afraid to expose their persons to so imminent a danger, +politely declined the invitation, on the plea of being too much +fatigued. My party consisted only of ten individuals, four of whom were +women, and all unarmed, with the exception of Pasko and myself, who were +furnished with a damaged pistol and an old rusty musket, borrowed of the +king of Katunga. With these weapons I resolved to proceed on the road at +all hazards, and had the good fortune, about twenty minutes afterwards, +to come in sight of the so much dreaded banditti. They were seated on +the grass, dividing their ill-gotten spoil, and appeared to take no +notice of me till I came within fifty or sixty yards of the spot, when, +desiring Pasko to fire, I struck spurs into the horse’s sides, making +him gallop with great swiftness, and the path being rocky and hollow, +the sound produced seemed as if a thousand horses were prancing over the +ground. At that moment, discharging my pistol, I completed the general +consternation of the highwaymen, who, without looking behind them, fled +in all directions, and concealed themselves in some rank grass, that was +growing at a short distance, to the height of nine or ten feet, leaving +their booty behind them, which consisted of upwards of three hundred +pounds of salt, besides country cloth, cowries, &c.; and the captured +articles, by the laws of the country, thus became my own property. + +The merchants who had, unknown to me, followed at a respectful distance, +as soon as they saw the utter discomfiture of the thieves, made their +appearance, and asserted, with a most amusing solemnity, that having +determined to share my good or bad fortune, they were making all haste +to my assistance, when the freebooters, by their precipitate, and to +them unlucky retreat, had prevented them from displaying the courage +which animated every bosom. I accepted their courtly apology, and +praised their heroic resolution, but being determined not to give them +the value of a single cowry, ordered my party to return with the +captured goods to Tschow. The chief of that town himself purchased the +different articles, and Pasko and his companions divided the money +equally among themselves, I having refused to accept of any, although +urged to take the whole. + +In the afternoon of the same day we arrived at Jannah, and instantly +visited the grave of Dr. Morrison, which I found in a perfect condition. +The king was to have been rewarded by Mr. Houtson, for preserving the +fence which surrounded it, from decay; but that gentleman having himself +died near Accra, on his return to the coast, the monarch had received no +acknowledgment for his trouble till my arrival at Jannah, when I fully +satisfied his demands. + +On the 13th the horses which the kings of Wow Wow and Khiama had given +me, both died, and the one I had left was in a weak and diseased state. + +The son of Mr. Park, the celebrated African traveller, died in a small +town two days’ journey in the interior from Accra, only three days +before my arrival on the coast. I first ascertained his name by reason +of a shirt sent in mistake for one of my own which I had given a female +to wash,—“Thomas Park,” being marked in legible characters at the +bottom. This young Englishman, on coming into the country, used no +precautions with regard to the preservation of his health, but, adopting +the habits of the people with whom he mingled, anointed his head and +body with clay and oil, ate unreservedly the food of the natives, and +exposed himself, with scarcely any clothing, to the heat of the sun by +day, and the influence of the pernicious dews by night,—in consequence +whereof, as might have been expected, he was attacked with fever, which +put an end to his existence after a very short illness. Mr. Thomas Park +had formed the pious resolution of discovering the spot where his +intrepid father had met his fate, and of ascertaining, if possible, the +cause and manner of his death; in which attempt he was defeated only by +his own dissolution. Had the young gentleman survived a few days longer, +I could have fully satisfied him in these particulars, and given him +directions, in case of his recovery, for proceeding to the island of +Boussa. + +On the 21st of November we entered Badagry, having been a month on the +road from Katunga; and I am compelled to acknowledge that in no town +were we received with unkindness, the people every where welcoming us +back again with vociferous expressions of pleasure. Sometimes indeed, +particularly between Jannah and Badagry, they howled so dreadfully on +seeing me, that the horse on which I rode trembled with fear; but this +was the means which the natives took to congratulate me on my safe +return. Adólee the king of Badagry, was glad to see me, and resigned his +mansion (constructed of bamboo, and two stories in height) to me, whilst +he contented himself with a small miserable hut, in which he took up his +residence. Like every other prince in Africa, he was grieved to learn +the decease of Captain Clapperton, and expressed his sorrow in a feeling +manner. I gave his majesty my little horse, which had accompanied me the +whole of the way from Soccatoo, together with all the articles for +presents that were left, consisting of light blue scarlet damask, +scarlet and blue silk, and two dozen pairs of cotton stockings. A week +after my arrival, I waited on Captain Morrison, a Portuguese slave +merchant, and obtained of him goods, the value of which amounted to +ninety-four dollars, with a barrel of gunpowder, which I paid for +myself. With these presents I dismissed the messengers of the kings of +Jannah and Katunga, whom I could not afford to maintain any longer in +provisions, and they returned to their respective sovereigns in high +spirits. + + + + + CHAPTER XVII. + + * * * * * + +Novel method adopted by Europeans for conveying slaves on board their +vessels — Conduct of the Portuguese Merchants, resident at Badagry, +towards the Author — The White Negroes — Manners and Ceremonies of the +Badagrians — Horrid indifference with respect to the shedding of Human +Blood — Murder of two of the King’s wives by moonlight. + + +By reason of the vigilance of British men-of-war on the coast, merchants +are obliged to use much greater caution than formerly, for eluding +observation, and embarking their purchased slaves. The plan now +generally adopted is as follows: as soon as a vessel arrives at her +place of destination, the crew discharge her light cargo, with the +manacles intended for the slaves, and land the captain at the same time. +The vessel then cruises along the coast to take in country cloth, ivory, +a little gold dust, &c.; and, if a British man-of-war be near, the crew +having nothing on board to excite suspicion, in most cases contrive to +get their vessel searched whilst trading with the natives. At such time +as they fancy their presence would be necessary, they return to the +place where the cargo had been landed, and communicate with the captain +on shore, who, during their absence had not been idle; and who then +takes the opportunity of acquainting his crew with the exact time in +which he will be in readiness to embark. The vessel then cruises a +second time up and down the coast, till the appointed day approaches, +when she proceeds to take in her living cargo. + +Immediately on sight of her every canoe for miles near is put in +requisition by the captain; provisions and water are speedily conveyed +on board; and last of all, the wretched slaves are dragged forcibly +towards the boats, and received by the European crew, who, as soon as +this is effected, crowd all sail, and the vessel quickly disappears. I +saw four hundred slaves at Badagry crammed into a small schooner of +eighty tons; and the appearance of these unhappy human beings was +squalid and miserable in the extreme. They were fastened by the neck in +pairs, only a quarter of a yard of chain being allowed for each, and +driven to the beach by a parcel of hired scoundrels, whilst their +associates in cruelty were in front of the party, pulling them along by +a narrow band, their only apparel, which encircled the waist. + +On leaving their native shore in the canoes, the wretched slaves set up +a wild and dismal lament, which rent the air, and might have been heard +at a considerable distance; but their tears failed to soften the hearts +of the relentless Christians, who huddled them hastily into the hold of +their vessel; and the cries of the Africans were heard no more. + +Captain Morrison was the only Portuguese in the town that behaved with +even common civility to me; the others, seven or eight in number, +evidently viewed me with suspicion and alarm, and actively exerted +themselves to persuade Adólee and his people that it would be necessary +to destroy me, asserting that I was a spy sent by the English +Government, and if suffered to leave the city, would return with numbers +of my countrymen, and enslave its inhabitants. What success these +insinuations met with, will hereafter be related; but in the mean time +these very men kept up an outward show of friendship and esteem for me +during a long period, and strove all in their power to lull suspicion +asleep, by endeavouring to strengthen the favourable opinion they +flattered themselves I entertained for their merits; and, by apparent +frankness of manner and openness of conduct, to do away any evil +impression which the rumour of their clandestine practices might have +awakened in my bosom. But although I maintained the profoundest +taciturnity on the subject, I was perfectly well acquainted with the +whole of their manœuvring, and prepared to encounter it in whatever way +it might at first annoy me. + +Amongst other things, the Portuguese at Badagry earnestly entreated me +to sell my poor slaves, and offered ninety-five dollars for each of +them; but of course I rejected their proposal with the contempt it +merited. I went to see one of these slave-merchants one day by special +invitation: he was at breakfast on my entering his hut; and wheaten +rolls and tea and sugar, were smoking and giving odour before him. I +ardently wished at the time to seat myself at his side, and partake of +the good things spread out so temptingly in my sight; for I had not +tasted bread for nearly two years previously, nor tea or sugar for +eighteen months; so that my childish propensity is not to be wondered +at. The Portuguese, however, although he looked first at me and then on +his breakfast, did not seem to be in a hurry to invite me to share it +with him: so, fancying he felt some delicacy and bashfulness about the +matter, which his eyes seemed to confirm, I was preparing very +unceremoniously to help myself, but thought I might as well in the first +place ask his permission. This I did in the best-tempered manner in the +world; but the surly, ill-natured European, dropping the tea he was +conveying to his lips, almost frightened me out of my wits, by +exclaiming, “Stay your hand for a moment, if you please, Mr. Englishman; +you have three fine slaves in your possession, for each of whom I will +immediately pay you a hundred dollars, and also send you as many wheaten +cakes as will serve you for a twelvemonth; but, unless you consent to +this proposal, you will have neither rolls nor tea of mine, I assure +you.” I could not think of gratifying my appetite at the expense of my +poor slaves, the faithful companions of my pilgrimage; so concealing, as +well as I was able, the disappointment I could not help feeling, I +arose, and bestowing on the Portuguese the epithets of a heartless, +unfeeling scoundrel, hastily quitted his inhospitable roof, and repaired +to my own dwelling. There I breakfasted more contentedly on a little +boiled Indian corn, mixed with palm-oil and water, my usual fare, than +if I had enjoyed all the luxuries in the world by wounding my +conscience, and doing violence to the best feelings of my nature. + +The same individual, however, three days after, sent me a loaf of bread +and a cheese, with a bottle of English porter, articles of which I had +_dreamt_ repeatedly in the interior, but of which I never expected to +partake in Africa. The merchant held out the same inducements as before +to obtain my slaves; but although I obstinately refused to accede to his +reiterated request, I could not, for the life of me, resist the strong +temptation I felt to claim a more familiar acquaintance with the +presents placed so provokingly within my reach; and instead of returning +them, which was to be the consequence of my refusal, I desired the +bearer to acquaint his master with my high admiration of his noble +conduct, and my extreme gratitude for a favour so unexpected and +undeserved on my part; but to add, that, being determined not to be +outdone by him in acts of generosity, I should take the liberty, on the +arrival of a British vessel on the coast, of returning the compliment by +a suitable acknowledgment. + +My decided determination not to part with my slaves for any +consideration, and the answer the messenger delivered to the slave- +dealer, so greatly exasperated both him and the whole of the Portuguese +in the place, that on meeting me in the streets, they used to pour out, +in broken English, a whole volley of oaths and curses; and took care not +to bestow on me further proofs of their good nature and benevolence, +till the arrival of the brig Maria of London at Badagry again opened the +sluices of their amiable and charitable feelings, and I was favoured a +second time with a present, yet more acceptable than the first, which +was sent on condition that I would not make my countrymen acquainted +with the fact of any Portuguese being in the town. + +I saw two milk white negroes, male and female, with red hair and eyes, +on my return from the interior; the one at Tschow, and the other at +Badagry. Having examined their bodies pretty minutely, I am confident +that they laboured under no disease whatever; indeed they told me +themselves that they entered the world in the condition in which I +beheld them. Neither of these unsightly individuals appeared to attract +a large portion of the curiosity of their sable countrymen; nor did +their singular and loathsome appearance excite in their breasts any +emotion of horror or disgust. The skin of these white Africans was by no +means like that of a fair European, having a much paler and more +unearthly hue; but without tumours or scrofulous affection of any kind. + +I had retired to rest rather earlier than usual one evening, being +greatly fatigued, when about the midnight hour a loud, long, and +piercing shriek awoke me with a start, and springing hastily from my +couch, I turned aside the slight mat which served instead of glass for +my window, to ascertain the cause of it. The moon shone in the heavens +with peculiar lustre and beauty, rivalling in splendour the brilliant +orb whence she receives her light, so that I was enabled to distinguish +clearly every object for some distance from the hut. Another fearful +scream at the moment arrested my undivided attention upon a group of +persons about ten or twelve yards from my window, in the midst of whom I +could perceive two females struggling violently to get loose from the +iron gripe with which they were held by their merciless guardians. I +called as loudly as I could to the fellows, (who, as well as the +perturbation of my mind, and the confusion of the scene would allow me +to discern, were eight in number,) to demand the reason of their ill- +treatment of the defenceless women at that unseasonable hour, when one +of them answered with the greatest unconcern, that the females whom I +saw were the King’s wives, who, having spoken their mind with too much +frankness in the royal presence an hour before, had been ordered by +their husband to make expiation for the offence by having their throats +cut,—that being considered as the mildest punishment which could be +inflicted for the consummation of so heinous a crime, by the laws of +Badagry; a punishment which none but Adólee’s favourites ever underwent! +Whilst the man was yet speaking, the trembling criminals shrieked long +and bitterly; but from exhaustion their struggles were less vehement +than before. At length I saw their hands bound, next their feet; and +lastly their heads, bent forcibly backwards, by four of the ruffians, +were held tightly by the hair in that painful position. I then heard the +poor creatures utter their last thrilling cry of anguish, which caused +my blood to run cold in my veins, and a shudder to creep over every +limb; and at that moment, the gleam of the uplifted daggers shot across +my vision, and as quick as lightning the poinards were buried in the +throat and bosom of each, severing the windpipe in their course. A faint +gargling sound like water issuing from the mouth of a bottle, was the +only noise produced; the ruthless assassins glided like spectres from +before my window, trailing their bleeding victims along the earth; and +all was as still and solemn as the grave, the moon alone (to my +imagination) blushing to be a spectatress of the atrocious deed. + +As soon as this bloody tragedy had been enacted, the spell that had +bound me motionless to the window, dissolved, and, flinging myself on my +mat, I endeavoured to obtain a little repose, and calm the agitation of +my mind; but the dreadful scene I had witnessed awakened a host of +phantoms in my disordered imagination, and obliged me to walk to and +from the apartment till the morning, when, on taking a stroll through +the town, my eyes were saluted with the revolting spectacle of the +murdered women hanging on the branches of the fetish-tree! + +The manners and ceremonies of the Badagrians, although they appeared so +simple and engaging to us whilst we continued amongst them, on first +leaving the Brazen, are without comparison the most rude and barbarous +of those of any of the people on the whole continent of Africa. The +murder of a slave is not considered even in the light of a misdemeanor +amongst them; and the frequency of this crime has not only taken away +all sense of its enormity, but steeled the breasts of the multitude +against every compassionate feeling; whilst the king and government +encourage savage principles and pastimes by setting them the example. + +The following particulars were gleaned principally from personal +observation, whilst I remained in that city of blood, called by the +inhabitants Badàg (or Woman); and, in the absence of that source, from +repeated conversations held with the king, his eldest son, and his great +chiefs or generals, Bombanee, Poser, and Accra, whom I questioned +separately, and at different periods, concerning the celebration of +their sacrifices and other religious rites. I found no discrepancies +whatever in the information thus obtained; and, after I had swallowed +the fetish, the before-named individuals communicated freely, and +without suspicion, any thing connected with their religion or manners +that I evinced the slightest wish to have explained. + +Badagry being a general mart for the sale of slaves to European +merchants, (who are now, I believe, almost exclusively confined to +agents belonging to the Portuguese nation,) it not unfrequently happens +that the market is either overstocked with human beings, or no buyers +are to be found; in which case the maintenance of the unhappy slaves +devolves solely on the government. The expense incurred by this means is +oftentimes murmured against by the king, who shortly afterwards causes +an examination to be made, when the sickly, as well as the old and +infirm, are carefully selected, and chained by themselves in one of the +factories, (five of which, containing upwards of one thousand slaves of +both sexes, were at Badagry during my residence there,) and next day the +majority of these poor wretches are pinioned, and conveyed to the banks +of the river that runs up the country, where, having arrived, a weight +of some sort is appended to their necks, and, being rowed in canoes to +the middle of the stream, they are flung into the water, and left to +perish by the pitiless Badagrians. Slaves who, for other reasons, are +rejected by the merchants, undergo the same punishment, or are left to +endure more lively torture at the sacrifices: by which means hundreds of +human beings are annually destroyed. + + + + + CHAPTER XVIII. + + * * * * * + +The Fetish-huts and tree at Badagry — Owing to the insinuations of the +Portuguese the Author is compelled by the priests of the Fetish, to +swallow bitter water, being the only European that ever underwent that +dreadful ordeal — His reflections when informed of the circumstance — +Astonishing preservation from an expected cruel death — Sacrifices of +human beings under the branches of the Fetish-tree, exceeding in +atrocity all previous accounts — Song of the inhabitants with Adólee at +their head, on the occasion — The Author, on his visit to a Portuguese +pirate, discovers the sacred Fetish-tree of the Badagrians growing in +the heart of a forest, and covered with the dismembered corpses of human +beings — Remarks on the Portuguese. + + +In the private fetish-hut of the King Adólee, at Badagry, the skull of +that monarch’s father is preserved in a clay vessel, placed in the +earth. Human blood, as well as the blood of birds and beasts, is +occasionally sprinkled on it; and when the king goes to war, that same +skull is invariably carried with him, with which he frequently +converses, and gently rebukes it, if his success does not happen to +answer his expectations. “If this custom be neglected,” said Adólee, +“the virtues and martial energy of my deceased father would cease to +influence my actions, and defeat and disgrace would attend all my +warlike undertakings.” The people of Badagry regard this skull with the +same veneration as the Turks do the sacred banner of their Prophet; and +believe, that should it be missed through any casualty, or captured by +the enemy, the destiny of their prince would be sealed for ever, and the +pillars of their monarchy crumble into dust, so that they would no +longer be a people! + +There is another fetish-hut at Badagry, the interior of which is +positively ornamented with rows of human skulls, and other emblems of +mortality, whitened by time, and having a most terrific appearance. In +this Pagan sanctuary all suspected persons go through the ordeal of +bitter (poisonous) water, in order to ascertain their guilt or +innocence; and death, which in almost all cases ensues shortly after the +prisoner receives the fatal draught into his stomach, is considered by +the people as a sure criterion of the former; whilst, if the culprit has +the good fortune to escape with life, which rarely happens, he is +pronounced free of the allegations brought against him, and immediately +acquitted. + +At a short distance from this gloomy hut stands a fetish-tree, on the +branches of which the headless bodies of human beings, slaughtered under +them, are invariably suspended. + +I did not think, as I strolled one day to the spot, and scrutinized the +exterior of the fetish-hut, that I myself was so shortly to enter its +doors, and be tried with bitter water by its inexorable priests, in +order to prove whether I was a good or bad man, a friend or foe to their +nation! + +But the calumnies of the Portuguese had recently begun to display their +effects very strikingly; Adólee had latterly behaved in a cold and +distant manner to me; and his chiefs studiously shunned my presence +whenever they observed me approaching them. + +One morning, as I was taking my solitary breakfast of palm oil and +Indian corn, I was startled by a message from the king, commanding me to +repair at noon-tide to the fetish-hut, and be examined by the priests, +who would be there assembled, to answer certain charges that would be +brought against me. I was well aware in what manner my trial was to be +conducted; and I could not forbear exclaiming to myself, as I mused on +the dreadful fate which I imagined awaited me: “Well, then, here will be +an end to my wanderings and my life; yet, having escaped so many +dangers, and encountered such grievous afflictions, it is hard, after +all, to cast off the fardel of existence thus prematurely; it is hard, +when almost within hearing of my countrymen, that my life should be +destroyed; that my skull should be preserved as a trophy by heartless +savages, and my body be devoured by ravens and other birds of prey.” As +I was making this saddening, and perhaps unmanly soliloquy, tears rushed +involuntarily into my eyes, but, hastily wiping them off, I employed the +little time allotted me in making my peace with Heaven, so that when the +fellows came to conduct me to the fetish-hut, I was calm and collected, +and prepared to undergo the severest punishment which the power of man +could inflict upon me. + +The news of the white man’s arrest, and approaching trial, spread like +wild-fire through the town, and the inhabitants, assembling from all +parts, armed with axes, spears, clubs, and bows and arrows, followed the +procession to the dismal spot. On entering the hut, I beheld a number of +priests and elders of the people, seated in a circle, who desired me to +stand in the midst of them. When I had complied with their request, one +of the priests arose, and presenting me with a bowl, containing about a +quart of a clear liquid, scarcely distinguishable from water, cried out +in a loud voice, and with much emphasis, “You are accused, white man, of +designs against our king and his government, and are therefore desired +to drink the contents of this vessel, which, if the reports to your +prejudice be true, will surely destroy you; whereas, if they be without +foundation, you need not fear, Christian; the fetish will do you no +injury, for our gods will do that which is right.” + +[Illustration] + +I took the bowl in my trembling hand, and gazed for a moment on the +sable countenances of my judges; but not a single look of compassion +shone upon any of them; a dead silence prevailed in the gloomy sanctuary +of skulls; every eye was intently fixed upon me; and seeing no +possibility of escape, or of evading the piercing glance of the priests +and elders, I offered up, internally, a short prayer to the Throne of +Mercy,—to the God of Christians,—and hastily swallowed the fetish, +dashing the poison-chalice to the ground. A low murmur ran through the +assembly; they all thought I should instantly have expired, or at least +have discovered symptoms of severe agony, but detecting no such tokens, +they arose simultaneously, and made way for me to leave the hut. On +getting into the open air, I found my poor slaves in tears; they had +come, they said, to catch a last glimpse of their master; but when they +saw me alive and at liberty, they leaped and danced for joy, and +prepared a path for me through the dense mass of armed people. These, +set up an astounding shout at my unexpected appearance, and seemed +greatly pleased, (if I might be allowed to judge,) that I had not fallen +a victim to the influence of their fearful fetish. On arriving at my +dwelling, I took instant and powerful means to eject the venomous potion +from my stomach, and happily succeeded in the attempt. + +I was told that the liquid I had swallowed was a decoction of the bark +of a tree abounding in the neighbourhood, and that I was the only +individual who, for a long season, had escaped its poisonous qualities. +It had a disagreeably bitter taste, but I experienced no other ill +effects from it than a slight dizziness, which wore off completely a few +hours after the conclusion of the trial. + +The dreadful charm having been thus providentially broken, all the cold +reserve and stiffness of Adólee and his chiefs suddenly disappeared; and +they visited me voluntarily a few days afterwards with presents of +provisions, &c. observing frequently that the Portuguese were wicked +men, but that I was a good man, under the special protection of the +white man’s God, who would suffer no evil to come near me. The Houssa +mallams were also permitted to introduce themselves into my society; +neither did they come empty-handed, so that I scarcely regretted having +drunk the fetish; for instead of suffering and death, from which I had +not entertained even a hope of escaping, the most pleasing and +flattering results were the consequence of my conforming to the customs +of the inhabitants. On walking through the streets I was pointed at as +the wonderful man, whom it would be dangerous to insult; my society was +courted by all ranks; and from that hour my reputation stood singularly +high with the people of Badagry, to the infinite chagrin of the +malicious Portuguese, who thus saw the complete failure of their +artfully laid plot, by the very means which they had fondly hoped would +have been the instruments of my destruction. + +Thieves, and other offenders, together with the remnant of the +unpurchased slaves who are not drowned along with their companions in +misfortune and misery, are reserved by the Badagrians to sacrifice to +their gods; which horrid ceremony takes place at least once a month. +Prisoners taken in war are also immolated, to appease the manes of the +soldiers of Adólee slain in battle; and as, of all atrocities, the +manner in which these wretches are slaughtered is the most barbarous, it +may not perhaps be improper or ill-timed to give a detailed account of +it in this place. Each criminal being conducted to the fetish-tree, a +flask of rum is given him to drink, whilst he is in the act of +swallowing which a fellow steals imperceptibly behind him, with a heavy +club or bludgeon, and inflicts a violent blow on the back of the head +with the murderous weapon, and, as it often happens, dashes out his +brains; so that the executioner has no occasion to repeat his stroke. +The senseless being is then taken to the fetish-hut, and a calabash or +gourd having been previously got ready, the head is severed from the +trunk with an axe, and the smoking blood gurgles into it. Whilst this is +in hand, other wretches, furnished with knives, &c. cut and mangle the +body, in order to extract the heart entire from the breast, which being +done, although it be yet warm and quivering with life, it is presented +to the king first, and afterwards to his wives and generals, who always +attend at the celebration of these sacrifices; and his majesty and suite +making an incision in it with their teeth, and partaking of the foamy +blood, which is likewise offered, the heart is exhibited to the +surrounding multitude. From the commencement of the proceedings under +the tree, the chiefs begin to sing or chaunt, the king’s wives and the +spectators assisting and joining in the chorus; and they never cease +till the body, with its head, heart, and blood, is borne from the spot, +when the multitude themselves take up the strain. The following lines +will serve to give an idea of the subject and nature of the song used on +the above occasions, which seldom, if ever, vary. + + + SONG OF THE BADAGRIANS AT THEIR HUMAN SACRIFICES. + + + When the blow the spirit lulls, + + Bear him to the “House of Skulls;” + + The calabash and gourd prepare— + + The knife, the axe, the bow, the spear. + + Faintly sighs the gasping breath; + + _Agra’s_ eye-lids close in death! + + ’Tis done! the headless trunk remains, + + Bleeding from a thousand veins. + + Drink the blood! the heart-strings tear! + + Wield the club, and shake the spear! + + + _Chorus._ + + Drink the blood! the heart-strings tear! + + Wield the club, and shake the spear! + + + _Song._ + + Chieftains! where’s the foeman now? + + Death smiles grimly on his brow, + + And his quarter’d limbs shall be + + Food for vultures on our tree. + + King Adólee’s foes all must + + Bend the neck, and kiss the dust, + + Or, like Agra, they shall fall, + + Snatch’d from Mercy’s trembling call. + + Drink the blood! the heart-strings tear! + + Wield the club, and shake the spear! + + Who so base to turn in fight? + + May his spirit sink in night— + + May a curse attend his ways— + + May Misfortune blast his days! + + But Badagrians will not swerve; + + Courage thrills in every nerve. + + Smite your foes, Badagrians! smite! + + Gleaming spears—resistless might— + + Bending bows—the arrows’ spring— + + Terror to your foemen bring. + + Drink the blood! the heart-strings tear! + + Wield the club, and shake the spear! + + +The bleeding heart, after being bitten by the king, and his principal +wives and head men, is affixed to the point of a tall spear, and, with +the calabash of blood and headless body, paraded through the town, and +followed by hundreds of spearmen and a dense crowd of people. Whoever +may express an inclination to bite the heart, or drink of the blood, has +it immediately presented to him for that purpose, the multitude dancing, +and singing: + + + As we gaze upon the slain, + + Courage mounts in every vein: + + Hearts of iron—breasts of steel + + Bold Badagrians reveal. + + + _People, from their Dwellings:_ + + Lo! the bleeding heart appears, + + Followed by a grove of spears; + + Show it here—‘to me,’—‘to me;’ + + I long to taste, to feel, to see! + + + _Spearmen:_ + + Yes! your foeman’s blood is warm; + + Trample on his ghastly form; + + Slake your thirst with living gore; + + Deeply drink; libations pour. + + Gods! accept the sacrifice, + + Of our great success the price. + + Drink we the blood! the heart-strings tear! + + Wield the club, and shake the spear! + + + _All the people in chorus:_ + + Wield the club, and shake the spear! + + Drink the blood! the heart-strings tear! + + Terror, terror, terror, cling + + Round the foemen of our king! + + +What remains of the heart is then flung to the dogs, and the body, cut +in pieces, is stuck on the fetish-tree, where it is left till wholly +devoured by birds of prey. + +Besides these butcheries, the Badagrians make a grand sacrifice, once a +year, under their sacred fetish-tree, growing in a wood, a few miles +from the city. These are offered to their malevolent Demon, or Spirit of +Evil, at whose shrine hundreds of human beings are annually immolated, +their corpses undergoing the same horrid process as that which has +already been described; only in this instance they are not removed from +the spot, but quartered and hung on the gigantic branches of the +venerable tree; and the skulls of the victims suffered to bleach in the +sun round the trunk of it. + +By accident I had an opportunity of seeing this much-talked-of tree, a +day or two only after the celebration of one of the grand yearly +sacrifices, and it was the most ghastly and appalling object which I had +ever beheld. I was informed in the town one day that a Portuguese +schooner had proceeded along the coast towards the Bight of Benin, and +was then lying at _Adjeedore_, which is about fourteen miles from +Badagry. Of course I was anxious to get out of the country, by any +means, as quickly as possible, for, as may be supposed, I was heartily +and completely tired of my long residence in it, and eagerly grasped at +even the shadow of an opportunity that promised to bring about so +desirable a good. I resolved, at any rate, to have an interview with the +captain of the schooner; and, for this purpose, taking Pasko and Jowdie +with me, one cloudless morning I proceeded to Adjeedore. The path +leading to the place, however, winding through a thick wood, and being +crossed by other roads in all directions, we struck out of the right one +into another; and journeyed onwards without discovering our error for +some time afterwards. We had not advanced many miles into the country +before our noses were saluted with the most overpowering effluvia, like +those exhaled from putrid substances; but, notwithstanding this warning, +it did not occur to me at the time that the sacred fetish-tree of the +Badagrians lay in that direction. The air became more strongly +impregnated the further we proceeded; till at length it was wholly +insupportable, and I was obliged to cover my mouth and nose with a thick +handkerchief, which relieved, in some measure, its disagreeable effects, +We had travelled in this manner, as nearly as I could guess, about half +way to the place of our destination, or seven miles from Badagry, when +the so much dreaded fetish-tree suddenly burst upon my sight, its +enormous branches literally covered with fragments of human bodies, and +its majestic trunk surrounded by irregular heaps of hideous skulls, +which had been suffered to accumulate for many years previously. It was +standing in the centre of a large piece of open ground in the heart of +the forest; and was actually the largest tree I had ever seen. Thousands +of vultures, which had been scared away by our unwelcome intrusion, were +yet hovering round and over their disgusting food, and now and then +pouncing fearlessly upon a half-devoured arm or leg. Although scenes of +horror had become habitual and familiar to me, my feelings, +nevertheless, were not entirely blunted, and I encountered a more +violent shock, whilst staring at the overwhelming scene, than I ever +before experienced. I stood as if fascinated to the spot by the +influence of a torpedo, and stupidly gazed on the ghastly spectacle +before me, without the power of withdrawing my sight to more agreeable +objects, or even of moving hand or foot. + +The huge branches of the fetish-tree, groaning beneath their burden of +human flesh and bones, and sluggishly waving in consequence of the hasty +retreat of the birds of prey; the intense and almost insufferable heat +of a vertical sun; the intolerable odour of the corrupt corpses; the +heaps of human heads, many of them apparently staring at me from hollows +which had once sparkled with living eyes; the awful stillness and +solitude of the place, disturbed only by the sighing of the conscious +wind through the sombre foliage, or at intervals by the frightful +screaming of voracious vultures, as they flapped their sable wings +almost in my face—all tended to overpower me; my heart sickened within +my bosom, a dimness came over my eyes, an irrepressible quivering +agitated my whole frame, my legs refused to support me, and, turning my +head, I fell senseless into the arms of Jowdie, my faithful slave! Pasko +assisted to bear me away from the scene of blood; and the two blacks +emptying a calabash of water they had brought with them on my head, +face, and breast, I slowly revived, and after a slight refreshment, +pursued my journey by another path. + +On reaching Adjeedore, I did indeed meet with the vessel I had been +informed of at Badagry; but the ferocious appearance of her crew +startled me not a little. The men were a mixture of Portuguese and +Brazilians, completely armed with pistols, cutlasses, and dirks; and +each furnished with a long black beard, which heightened, perhaps, the +fierceness of their looks. The Captain (Don Pedro he called himself,) +received me politely; and after I had made him acquainted with my +errand, which was simply to ask if he had any objection to convey me and +my slaves to Cape Coast Castle without delay, he took me into his cabin, +and treated me with the best his ship afforded. In the course of our +conversation I thought he was rather too inquisitive as to the amount of +property I had at Badagry; but this, I concluded, arose from a spirit of +curiosity, rather than from any other reason. Every arrangement having +been entered into to the apparent satisfaction of both parties, I shook +hands with the Captain, and towards evening returned to Badagry. On +making inquiries in the town next day, I learnt from the Portuguese that +the said Don Pedro was a noted pirate who had infested the seas for a +long period previously, and that his sole intention, after getting me +and my property on board his vessel, was to compel me to “walk the +plank,”[8] and by that means secure the latter to himself. Although I +was disposed to doubt the asseverations of these men, who I well knew +bore me no good will, yet Adólee confirmed their testimony; besides +which I had myself heard of the existence of a pirate in the +neighbourhood some weeks before; and the dubious appearance of Don Pedro +and his bearded crew, certainly tended to strengthen instead of +dissipating a suspicion that the pirate and the Captain were one and the +same individual. Agreeably to promise, Don Pedro paid me a visit on the +following Monday, to ascertain how long it would be before I should be +ready to embark; but I frankly acquainted him with my change of +resolution, and my reasons for adopting that alteration in my +intentions; on hearing which he appeared thunderstruck, and, instead of +attempting to clear his character of the aspersion cast upon it, +contented himself with calling his countrymen, the Portuguese, by a +variety of hard names. Rising abruptly a few minutes afterwards, he bade +me a hasty adieu, and I never saw or heard any thing more of the +piratical captain, Don Pedro. + +I turned my thoughts with greater warmth than ever to my native country, +after swallowing the fetish; but so effectually had the rascally slave +merchants performed the base part they had laid down for themselves, +that although I repeatedly offered a tempting reward, no one was found +bold enough to brave their resentment by proceeding in a canoe to Cape +Coast Castle, and informing my countrymen that an Englishman was at +Badagry. The Portuguese not only shut the portal of hope in that +direction, but, when they found their malicious designs so completely +counteracted, actually threatened to take my life in the hearing of +Adólee, who, on acquainting me with the circumstance, said, that +although I bore a charmed existence as far as regarded my dealing with +black people, that virtue did not extend to persons of the same hue and +religion as myself; and he therefore strongly advised me never to leave +my dwelling unarmed, for that the Portuguese would assuredly embrace the +first opportunity of carrying their menace into effect. The intensity of +my misfortunes had not entirely deadened the principle of self- +preservation that resided within my bosom, particularly when so near my +escape from all; and the information which the king gratuitously +imparted to me, gave me considerable uneasiness, and filled me with +groundless suspicions. Damocles was not more unhappy on beholding the +sword suspended over his head by a single hair in the palace of +Dionysius, than was I whilst I remained at Badagry. All was apprehension +and anxiety on my part; and as if positive calamities had not been +enough to afflict and sadden me, imaginary dangers crossed my path, and +lent their aid to render my days superlatively miserable. Obliged to +take numberless precautions for the safety of my person, I was a prey to +fear and unceasing inquietude, and was a stranger to a moment’s ease. + +I was met in the streets one day by a Portuguese, whom I considered more +friendly-disposed towards me than his vicious coadjutors; and after +chatting a few minutes, he invited me to go along with him to his +habitation. On entering it, I found the whole of his countrymen +assembled, drinking grog; and all hands appeared to be obstreperously +merry. A glass of spirit was immediately poured out for my acceptance, +which they urgently pressed me to drink; and on my refusal, I observed +them laying their heads together, and conversing earnestly in whispers, +pointing every now and then to the dirks stuck in their belts. My +suspicions, ever alive, immediately caught the alarm at these +significant proceedings; and looking wistfully round, I attempted in +vain to steal unobserved from the society of my disagreeable companions. +Seeing, therefore, no other resource, I told the Portuguese, in as bold +a tone as I could command, that my presence being required at home, it +was absolutely necessary that I should immediately quit their _social_ +circle and repair thither. They all arose on my making this declaration; +and I saw their right hands inclining instinctively towards their belts. +Following their example, I laid my left hand on the hilt of a dagger +concealed in my bosom, and with the other grasped a loaded pistol that +was appended to my waist. In this manner, we eyeing each other with +mutual distrust, I retreated backwards out of the apartment; and felt +the burden that had oppressed me suddenly relieved, on being again at +liberty. + +I mention this little incident simply to give an idea how greatly my +mind was harassed by a host of vexatious circumstances combined, which, +taken singly, would only serve as matter for pleasant raillery. But whom +had I to make merry with at Badagry? I looked around me in vain for a +single being to share my confidence there; and my wandering mind, flung +back upon its own resources, encouraged only perplexing doubts, vague +suspicious, and saddening reflections to arise within me, and caused me +to misconstrue every word and deed of both friends and enemies; in fact +it was utterly impossible to prevent such unpleasant sensations having +considerable influence over all my thoughts and actions. + + + + + CHAPTER XIX. + + * * * * * + +Captain Laing, of the brig Maria, of London, hearing that an Englishman +is at Badagry, comes from Whydah to fetch the Author — His reflections +on leaving Badagry, and on reaching the British vessel — The Maria sails +for Cape Coast, where the Author lands, and is taken on board the Esk +sloop of war, which vessel sails for England — Tale of the turtles — +Arrival in England, &c. + + +I had heard it rumoured some days before that an English vessel had been +seen trading on the coast, and I waited with trembling anxiety and a +palpitating heart till accident might make her captain acquainted with +the circumstance of my being shut up in Badagry. My most flattering +anticipations were amply realized, for on the 20th of January, two +months after my arrival, a fellow came running in breathless haste +towards me, with a letter and a bottle of gin from the master of a +British vessel then lying off the town, directed to “The Englishman at +Badagry.” No one can express the pleasure that thrilled through every +nerve, as I was perusing lines traced by the fingers of a countryman, +and containing the transporting intelligence that “Captain Laing,[9] of +the brig Maria of London, hearing that a white man was resident at +Badagry, and strongly suspecting that he must belong to the African +Mission of exploration under Captain Clapperton, had come from Whydah, +and would feel pleasure, if such proved to be the case, in being +serviceable to him in any manner that might be suggested, or in +transporting him to a British settlement on the coast.” Scarcely knowing +what I did, and almost beside myself with joy, I wrote a hasty scrawl of +thanks to the generous Englishman; and, desiring Pasko and the slaves to +get every thing in readiness for starting immediately, I paid my +respects to the king, and his wives and chiefs, and bade them a last +farewell. + +Returning instantly to my habitation, I left the town of Badagry, and +bent my way directly for the beach. My heart bounded within me at sight +of the proud banner of my country, streaming from the stately mast of +the Maria; and a signal being made, a boat was without loss of time +despatched to my assistance. I was soon on the water; and as the little +bark moved swiftly towards the ship, although my appearance was pitiable +in the extreme, the yards were instantly ordered to be manned, and three +tremendous cheers from the throats of British seamen, welcomed me once +more to the dear society of my gallant countrymen. This was ravishing +melody in my ears; it was the happiest, most rapturous moment of my +life. I hastily climbed the sides of the vessel, and springing delighted +upon the conscious deck, returned thanks to the Almighty for my +preservation, and shook hands heartily with the captain and crew. But as +sudden and violent transport is seldom lasting, so I could not help +reflecting, a very few minutes afterwards, how different, how _very_ +different had been my feelings in the same place about two years +before;—so nearly is joy allied to sorrow, pleasure to pain, +cheerfulness to melancholy. As a noble tree, growing in strength, and +flourishing in beauty, is suddenly blasted by lightning, which scathes +its verdant foliage, and destroys the vital principle; even so had I +seen a party of British officers, proud as their native rocks, wither +and die. They had planted their feet on African soil full of fine spirit +and noble enthusiasm, scoffing at peril, and determined to overcome +every human obstacle that might arrest their progress in the +accomplishment of their hazardous undertaking, that great object of +their ambition, to which the eyes of millions were directed. A few +months only had elapsed, when their elevated hopes and buoyant feelings +were quenched in darkness; their manly frames shrivelled like the tree, +from irremediable causes; till, unable longer to “drag their slow length +along,” they had languished and fallen, and the sound of their voices +was heard no more—they had resigned their burden of life, sorrow, and +suffering; and were transplanted to that unknown country where “the +wicked cease from troubling, and the weary are at rest.” I, of all, was +left to tell the sorrowful tale to their countrymen. I had certainly +cause for self-gratulation at the almost miraculous preservation of my +own life; but I had also matter for gloomy reflections in the mournful +fate of so many brave and enterprising British officers, who had died +prematurely in a savage land; and I sighed when the Maria sailed from +Badagry, to look back on departed times, and recall the hearty, +thoughtless merriment that burst vociferously from the hearts of the +dauntless Englishmen an evening or two preceding their landing at that +place; nor could I refrain from asking myself: “And where is their +merriment; where is their laughter, now?” + +On arriving at Cape Coast, I was received in the most cordial manner by +the Governor, Colonel Lumley (since dead), and the British merchants +then in the place, with whom I dined, and who vied with each other in +showing me every mark of kindness and respect. As soon as they learnt my +arrival, the Houssa inhabitants flocked around me, and were delighted +that a white man could converse with them in their own language; which +feeling was infinitely increased by my assuring their sceptical +companions that Houssa was a good land—for even in the breasts of these +rude Africans a love of country was not the least distinguishable +sentiment. These poor people stood with mouths open, to be informed of +what was transacting in the land of their birth; and were variously +agitated, in proportion as the accounts were of a good or bad nature. + +At Cape Coast I gave my faithful slaves, Aboudah, Jowdie, and Pasko’s +wife, their freedom; but when they were made acquainted with the fact +that the boon offered them was on condition of their remaining behind, +they could not conceal their disappointment and regret, and were +unwilling to accept it, saying it was the greatest evil that could +befall them. They came to me in a body on the morning of my departure, +making the air ring with their lamentations; and, covering their heads +with sand and dust, they intreated me with tears to take them with me to +my country. I consoled the poor creatures as well as I could, with the +hope of seeing them again in a couple of months; and they left me in +better spirits. Colonel Lumley, with the most laudable generosity, +presented each of them with a sum of money and a plot of ground, with +which they built huts for themselves, and formed their land into +gardens; so that they can now boast of greater comfort and convenience +than most of their emancipated countrymen residing on the coast. + +On the 13th of February, I embarked with Pasko on board the Esk sloop of +war, Captain Purchase, which set sail the same day for Fernando Po, +where I had a long interview with Major Denham, the only survivor of the +previous mission of discovery (but since deceased), who expressed +infinite concern to hear of the fate of his coadjutor in that +expedition. + +The Esk visited the island of St. Helena, (where I landed, with others, +to see the tomb of Bonaparte,) and that of Ascension, from whence a +number of huge turtles was taken on board; and afterwards we sailed +direct for England. + +During the voyage, finding it impossible to sleep in a seaman’s hammock, +in consequence of having been accustomed, for so long a period to repose +on hard mats, an awning was prepared for me upon the deck of the vessel, +under which I lay down every night; and slept soundly till the arrival +of the Esk at Portsmouth on the 30th of April. Whether it was owing to +change of air, or alteration of diet, or both of these causes combined, +I know not, but I became exceedingly ill on ship-board, which continued +some time after my arrival in England; and this, together with +intermittent fever and general debility, damped considerably the joy I +should otherwise have felt on placing my foot once more on British soil. + +After our catching the turtle at Ascension, to which I have already +alluded, some of them had the misfortune to die, and their companions in +confinement and misery were hourly expected to follow their example; +insomuch that the captain ordered their eyes to be bathed in water +morning and evening, as the only means of preserving the poor creatures’ +lives. This cleanly and responsible office was proposed for my +acceptance; but could I, who had so recently shaken hands with majesty, +and lodged in the palaces of kings; who had been waited on by the queen +of Boussa, and walked delighted with the proud princess of Nyffé; could +I, who might have become the master of a thousand slaves, and lord of +the high-minded and lovely Zuma; who had been solicited to wed the +daughters of a mighty monarch, as well as become premier of his Councils +and commander-in-chief of his armies;—could I so suddenly fall from the +towering elevation to which my consequence had raised me, forget all my +dignity and all my laurels, and descend to the menial, grovelling +occupation of washing the filthy eyes of turtles? Surely, no. But for +the first time I _felt_ that I was amongst my good-for-nothing +countrymen; that the astonishing “Nassarah Curramee” of Africa, the god, +the prophet, the enchanter, had degenerated into the simple Richard +Lander of former years; and that all my glory and all my consequence had +vanished into air. Alas! + + + “See how the mighty shrink into a song!” + + +Well, I put the best face upon the matter that I could assume, and +respectfully insinuated that, considering myself in the light of a +passenger, I did not think it to be altogether honorable that so +disagreeable a task should be imposed upon me in particular; and that +although no one could feel a more lively degree of sorrow for the +sufferings and forlorn condition of the unfortunate animals in question +than myself, the duty of ministering to their wants, ought, in common +fairness, to devolve on a person of _less consideration_, and one on +whose services they had a more lawful claim than on mine. My scruples +were respected, and the turtles died! + +On arriving in London, I was met in the streets by a Jew, who ran forth +and cordially embraced me, asking how I had left our Hebrew brethren in +Jerusalem. The fellow, by my beard, and singular appearance, had taken +it into his head that I belonged to his own fraternity, and was just +returned from visiting the holy city; but, being convinced of his +ludicrous mistake, my affectionate would-be brother sneaked off without +further “_palavering_;” and I hastened to my late master’s agents, +Messrs. Evans and Eaton, George-street, Adelphi. Agreeably to the +Captain’s dying injunction, his uncle, Col. Clapperton, was sent for; +but that officer being in the country, did not arrive in time; and I +thought it advisable that a private gentleman (Mr. M‘Gougan), my +master’s esteemed friend, should accompany me to the Colonial office in +his stead. In the presence of this individual I deposited my charge +safely in the hands of the Secretary, together with the gold and silver +watches—without having lost a single article from the moment I left +Soccatoo, twelve months previously, although I had travelled throughout +the most violent rainy season that had been remembered by the natives +for many years. Pasko was sent back to his wife at Cape Coast Castle, +but not till, after much entreaty, I had given him permission to pay his +addresses also to Aboudah, the young woman the prince of Zeg Zeg had +offered me for a spouse;—whilst I, when I had remained in the metropolis +three or four weeks, in order to prepare a rough copy of my journal, +returned to my friends at Truro, in Cornwall, after an absence from them +of nearly thirteen years. + + + + + APPENDIX. + + * * * * * + + _A Vocabulary of the Short Phrases of the Houssa Tongue._ + + + _English._ _Houssa._ + + One Deah. + + Two Bew. + + Three Booko. + + Four Foodo. + + Five Beaha + + Six Shedah. + + Seven Buckevee. + + Eight Togus. + + Nine Farra. + + Ten Gomma. + + Eleven Gommashadeah. + + Twelve Gommashabew. + + Thirteen Gommashahooko. + + Fourteen Gommashafoodo. + + Fifteen Gommashabeah. + + Sixteen Gommashashidah. + + Seventeen Gommashabuckwee. + + Eighteen Gommashatogus. + + Nineteen Gommashatarra. + + Twenty Ashareen. + + Thirty Thallateen. + + Forty Harbine. + + Fifty Humpseen. + + Sixty Setteen. + + Seventy Sabine. + + Eighty Tissine. + + Ninety Tamaneene. + + One Hundred Duree. + + One Thousand Zumbrudayah. + + --- --- + + One day Gunah deah. + + One month Wâtah deah. + + This minute Yonsoo. + + Silver Zinnariyea. + + Gold Hasraffa. + + Brass Becken Murraffee. + + Beads Dushee. + + Salt Gesharie. + + A woman’s girdle Zanié. + + A rogue Mogue. + + The sun Ramah. + + The moon Wâttah. + + The stars Dula. + + Morning De Saffey. + + Noon Rangah. + + Night Nooway. + + Day Yow. + + A box Sundook. + + Wild (a.) Dowah. + + An antelope Naming. + + A needle Allurah. + + A looking glass Mydubee. + + A knife Hooker. + + A sword Tacobee. + + A gun Bindegah. + + Curdled milk squeezed and dried Chuckkumarra. + in the sun—a kind of cheese + + To-morrow morning early Sigovey da Saffey. + + Go on as fast as you can for Tuffee muzzah muzzah acqui mugo + there are robbers in the path chiken talabah. + + Sweep the house Bally gidah. + + Wash my shirt Wankee regar. + + Mix a little flour and water Damma mossa fouro du boo. + + Bring my mat into the hut Kow shimpidah chiken giddah. + + Any river Golabee. + + The river Niger Golabee Quarra. + + Put the baggage on the camel Sadu kiah besah du ba comme. + + A wild hog Mugen dowah. + + Soldiers of the Sultan Doggalee du Sulakee. + + The Sultan’s slaves Bowah de Sulakee. + + I am going to my house Ne tuffee giddah. + + There are fine horses for sale Acqui dorkee nuggree chikeen + in the market caswâh. + + What’s the news? Ah fiel—ah bour on donnaih. + + Nothing particular, all’s well Baboo coome sa laf fare. + + There is war on the road near Acqui yiki chikeen tulabah couso + the city of Kano bernee Kano. + + Against whom are the people of Menenee mutanee birnee Kano yikee + Kano fighting? Against the sons yon zu duncollen Caffrée? + of dogs and unbelievers? + + Who’s there Maneni acka? + + I do not know Ba sanni ba. + + Tell him that I should like to Fuddee moossa nee shee nashá + see him dubàah. + + What’s this town called? Whaso neen du bernee? + + It is the town of Catshenah Bernee Catsheenah. + + O dear, O dear, O dear, it’s Ki, ki, ki, zafey yow. + very warm to-day + + I will take a ride in the East Ni how dorkee tuffee gubu Sigovey. + to-morrow + + How many days’ journey is it Quanah nowah ranah acka bernee + from hence to Kano Kano? + + There is much water in the path Acqui rowah chikeen talabah + daywowa. + + + THE END. + + * * * * * + J. B. NICHOLS AND SON, + 25, Parliament Street. + + + + +FOOTNOTES: + + +[Footnote 1: Thus the hieroglyphical message of the Scythian Ambassador, +who, without making any comment, presented Darius with five arrows, a +bird, a frog, and a mouse, is pretty generally known. The Chief of the +Narraghanset Indians also made himself understood, by sending the first +settlers of New England a rattlesnake’s skin stuffed with arrows. This +was answered as intelligibly by the settlers returning the same skin +filled with powder and bullets.] + +[Footnote 2: A venerable man in Wow Wow, whose sable locks had changed +to grey, a sure sign, amongst the Africans, either of severe distress or +extreme old age.] + +[Footnote 3: Nasarah Curramee (Little Christian), an appellation by +which I was generally known in Africa, on account of my diminutive +stature.] + +[Footnote 4: A shrub from the seeds of which the natives extract the +deadly venom in which the points of their arrows are invariably dipped.] + +[Footnote 5: BEBBO.—Great or big white man. Captain Clapperton was +generally known in Africa as _bebba_; and I, a _curramee_ (little).] + +[Footnote 6: The inhabitants of Katunga, and indeed all the Yaribeans, +are persuaded that when the dead awake from their long sleep, they will +need companions and servants in the other world; and, on the strength of +this belief, at the burial of any person of consequence, many of his +friends swallow poison, and, with a number of slaves that are slain for +the purpose, are inhumed in the same grave as the deceased.] + +[Footnote 7: Neither Mansolah, nor any of his subjects, would believe +but that Captain Clapperton came to his death by violent means.] + +[Footnote 8: Seamen, when captured by pirates, are sometimes compelled +to walk blindfolded from a board into the sea, and so left to perish. +This is termed “walking the plank.”] + +[Footnote 9: Captain _Laing_, and not “Morrison,” as mentioned by +mistake in my printed Journal, conveyed me from Badagry; and I take this +opportunity of expressing my deep sense of gratitude to that gentleman, +for the very handsome treatment I received at his hands, and the truly +British feeling he displayed after receiving me on board his vessel.] + + + + +Transcriber's note: + + + pg 11 Changed: "he got into open gronnd" to: "ground" + + pg 14 Changed: "as in all ropical countries" to: "tropical" + + pg 21 Changed: "he money concerns of the" to: "the money" + + pg 45 Changed: "the diappointed Falatahs boasted" to: "disappointed" + + pg 46 Changed: "that they they did not think it worth while" to: + "that they did" + + pg 88 Changed: "owing to the illnesss of" to: "illness" + + pg 104 Changed: "it will he recollected Pasko" to: "be" + + pg 176 Added missing line: "stirrups of his horse’s saddle, is + thrown from its back, and" after: "crossing a river, in the" + + pg 202 Changed: "Ebo did not uage his request" to: "urge" + + pg 207 Changed: "which state it is is hawked through" to: "it is + hawked" + + pg 258 Changed: "who, for a ong season" to: "long" + + pg 291 Changed: "Abox" to: "A box" + + pg 293 Changed: "a ride in thee East" to: "the" + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78092 *** diff --git a/78092-h/78092-h.htm b/78092-h/78092-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..9c3ca7a --- /dev/null +++ b/78092-h/78092-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,7180 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html> +<html lang="en"> +<head> +<title>Records of Captain Clapperton's last expedition to Africa, +Vol. 2 (of 2) | Project Gutenberg</title> +<meta charset="utf-8"> +<link rel="icon" href="images/cover.jpg" type="image/x-cover"> +<style> +body { + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; +} +h1 +{ + text-align: center; + font-size: 100%; + font-weight: normal; + margin-top: 1.5em; + line-height: 2; + margin-bottom: 1em; + clear: both; +} +h2 { + font-size: 100%; + text-align: center; + font-weight: normal; + line-height: 1.1; + margin-top: 2em; + page-break-before: always; + clear: both; +} +h2.nopb { + page-break-before: avoid; + margin-top: 1em; +} +h3 { + font-size: 85%; + text-align: center; + font-weight: normal; + line-height: 1.1; + margin-top: 1.5em; + margin-bottom: 1em; + page-break-before: avoid; + clear: both; +} +h3.normal-size { + font-size: 100%; +} +hr.chap { + color: Gray; + background-color: Gray; + width: 65%; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; +} +hr.decor { + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; +} +hr.spaced2 { + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em; +} +.link2:after { + content: '↗'; +} +.pb { + page-break-before: always; +} +.x-ebookmaker hr.chap { display: none; visibility: hidden; } +.spaced2 { + line-height: 2; +} +.spaced15 { + line-height: 1.5; +} +.space-above2 { + margin-top: 2em; +} +.space-above15 { + margin-top: 1.5em; +} +.space-below1 { + margin-bottom: 1em; +} +.space-below2 { + margin-bottom: 2em; +} +.letter-spaced { + letter-spacing: 0.05em; +} +.letter-spaced01 { + letter-spacing: 0.1em; +} +.letter-spaced02 { + letter-spacing: 0.2em; +} +.letter-spaced02 { + letter-spacing: 0.2em; +} +.word-spaced4 { + word-spacing: 0.4em; +} +.word-spaced6 { + word-spacing: 0.8em; +} +.word-spaced10 { + word-spacing: 1.6em; +} +.tb { + text-indent: 0; + text-align: center; + word-spacing: 2em; +} +.nind { + text-indent: 0; +} +.ind3 { + text-indent: 3em; +} +.hang1 { + text-indent: -1em; + padding-left: 1em; + } +.publisher { + margin-top: 1em; + font-size: 100%; + line-height: 1.5; + text-align: center; + text-indent: 0; +} +p { + text-align: justify; + text-indent: 1.5em; + line-height: 1.2; + max-width: 1200px; + margin: auto; + margin-top: .51em; + margin-bottom: .49em; +} +.xxlarge { + font-size: 150%; +} +.xlarge {font-size: 125%;} +.large {font-size: 110%;} +.less {font-size: 95%;} +.med {font-size: 85%;} +.med-size {font-size: 85%;} +.small {font-size: 75%;} +.bold { font-weight: bold;} +.strike { + text-decoration: line-through; +} +.sc { + font-variant: small-caps; + } +.sc2 { + font-variant: small-caps; + font-size: 80%; + } +.center { + text-align: center; + text-indent: 0; + } +.pad2 { + padding-left: 2em + } +.pad3 { + padding-left: 3em + } +.pad-right2 { + padding-right: 2em + } +.pad-right3 { + padding-right: 3em + } +.pad-right5 { + padding-right: 5em + } +.pad-right12 { + padding-right: 12em + } +.right { + text-align: right; + } +.csum { + text-indent: -1em; + padding-left: 1em; + font-size: 90%; + margin-bottom: 1.5em; + } +.footnotes { + border: dashed 1px; + max-width: 1200px; + margin: auto; +} +.footnote { + margin-top: 0.5em; + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 5%; + font-size: 90%; +} +.footnote .label { + float: left; + margin-left: -12%; + text-align: right; +} +.fnanchor { + vertical-align: super; + font-size: .8em; + text-decoration: none; + font-style: normal; + font-weight: normal; +} +.pagenum { + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: small; + text-align: right; + font-style: normal; + font-weight: normal; + font-variant: normal; + letter-spacing: normal; + color: silver; + text-indent: 0; +} +.linegrp-container { + text-align: center + } +.linegrp { + display: inline-block; + text-align: left; + font-size: 90%; + } +.linegrp .group { + margin: 1em 0 1em 0 + } +.line { + padding-left: 3em; + line-height: 1.4em; + } +.indent0 { + text-indent: -3em + } +.indent2 { + text-indent: -2em + } +.indent4 { + text-indent: -1em + } +.indent6 { + text-indent: 0 + } +ul.sign1 { + list-style-type: none; + max-width: 12em; + text-align: left; + margin-right: 2em; + margin-left: auto; +} +ul.simple1 { + list-style-type: none; + padding: 0.5em; + text-align: left; + max-width: 30em; + margin: auto; +} +ul.simple1 > li { + padding-top: 0.1em; + text-indent: -1em; + padding-left: 1em; + font-size: 90%; +} +div.margins { + width: 1200px; + max-width: 100%; + margin: auto; +} +div.quote { + margin-top: 1.5em; + margin-bottom: 1.5em; +} +div.titlepage { + text-align: center; + page-break-before: always; + page-break-inside: avoid; + margin: auto; + margin-top: 4em; +} +@media screen and (max-width: 1500px) { +div.titlepage { + font-size: 85%; +} +} +.x-ebookmaker div.titlepage { + font-size: 80%; +} +.transnote { + background-color: #E6E6FA; + color: black; + font-size:smaller; + padding:0.5em; + font-family:sans-serif, serif; +} +table { + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + font-size: 100%; +} +table.toc { + max-width: 40em; + font-size: 90%; +} +table.toi { + width: 30em; + max-width: 100%; + font-size: 90%; +} +.x-ebookmaker table.toi { + width: 100%; +} +table.toc td { + padding-top: 0.25em; + padding-bottom: 0.25em; + padding-right: 0.4em; +} +table.toi td { + padding-top: 0.15em; + padding-bottom: 0.15em; +} +table.vocab { + width: 40em; + max-width: 100%; +} +.x-ebookmaker table.vocab { + width: 100%; +} +table.vocab td { + width: 50%; + text-align: left; + vertical-align: top; + padding-left: 1em; + text-indent: -1em; + padding-right: 2em; + padding-top: 0.5em; +} +.x-ebookmaker table.vocab td { + font-size: 90%; +} +table.vocab td.tdc { + text-align: center; + padding-left: 0; + text-indent: 0; +} +table td.sect { + padding-top: 1em; +} +th { + font-size: 90%; + font-weight: normal; + text-align: center; +} +td, td > p { + margin-top: 0.25em; + line-height: 1.1em; +} +.tdl { + text-align: left; + } +.tdl-top { + text-align: left; + vertical-align: top; + } +.tdr-bot { + text-align: right; + vertical-align: bottom; + } +.tdr {text-align: right;} +.tdc {text-align: center;} +.width-full { + width: 100%; +} +.width10 { + width: 10em; +} +.width8 { + width: 8em; +} +.width6 { + width: 6em; +} +.width5 { + width: 5em; +} +.width4 { + width: 4em; +} +div.figcenter { + margin: auto; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em; + text-align: center; + max-width: 100%; +} +div.figcenterplate { + margin: auto; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + text-align: center; + max-width: 100%; + page-break-before: always; +} +figure { + display: inline-block; + margin: 0 auto; + text-align: center; + max-width: 100%; +} +figure p { + text-indent: 0; + margin-top: 0; + margin-bottom: 0; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + } +figure p.cp1 { + margin-top: 0.3em; + text-align: center; + font-size: 90%; +} +figure p.cp2 { + margin-top: 0.5em; + text-align: center; + font-size: 100%; + font-variant: small-caps; +} +table.ipub td { + font-size: 65%; +} +img { + width: inherit; + max-width: 100%; +} +.iw1 { width: 600px; } +@media screen and (max-width: 1500px) { +.iw1 { + width: 350px; +} +} +.x-ebookmaker .iw1 { + max-width: 70%; +} +.iw2 { width: 600px; } +@media screen and (max-width: 1500px) { +.iw2 { + width: 500px; +} +} +</style> +</head> +<body> +<div style='text-align:center'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78092 ***</div> +<div class="margins"> +<div class="transnote x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<p class="center">Large-size versions of illustrations are +available by clicking on them.</p> + +<p class="center"><a class="link2" href= +"https://www.gutenberg.org/files/78091/78091-h/78091-h.htm">Vol. +1</a> +</p> +</div> + +<p class="x-ebookmaker-drop space-above2"> +</p> + +<div class="titlepage"> +<h1><span class="xlarge letter-spaced">RECORDS</span><br> +<span class="small">OF</span><br> +<span class="xlarge letter-spaced">CAPTAIN CLAPPERTON’S</span><br> +LAST EXPEDITION<br> +<span class="small">TO</span><br> +<span class="xxlarge bold letter-spaced02">AFRICA:</span></h1> + +<p class="center spaced15"><span class="sc">By</span> RICHARD +LANDER,<br> +<span class="small">HIS FAITHFUL ATTENDANT, AND THE ONLY +SURVIVING<br> +MEMBER OF THE EXPEDITION:</span></p> + +<p class="center spaced15"><span class="small">WITH THE</span><br> +<span class="med">SUBSEQUENT ADVENTURES OF THE AUTHOR.</span> +</p> + +<hr class="decor spaced2 width6"> + +<p class="center spaced2"><span class="less">IN TWO +VOLUMES.</span><br> +VOL. II.</p> + +<hr class="decor spaced2 width10"> + +<p class="publisher"><span class= +"letter-spaced01">LONDON:</span><br> +<span class="less">HENRY COLBURN AND RICHARD BENTLEY,</span><br> +<span class="med">NEW BURLINGTON STREET.</span><br> +<span class="less">1830.</span> +</p> +</div> + +<p class="space-above2"> +</p> + +<hr class="decor width8"> + +<p class="center"><span class="small">J. B. NICHOLS AND +SON,</span><br> +<span class="med">25, Parliament Street.</span> +</p> + +<hr class="chap"> + +<h2 class="spaced2"><span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_iii">[iii]</span><a id="toc"></a><span class= +"large">CONTENTS</span><br> +<span class="less">OF THE SECOND VOLUME.</span> +</h2> + +<hr class="decor width5"> + +<table class="toc"> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc large sect"><a href="#c10">CHAPTER +X.</a> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> +</td> +<td class="tdr med">Page</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdl-top hang1">Character of the Africans in general — +Their social qualities considered — Succinct remarks on the Natural +History of the Interior — Yam Yams — Arabs — Falatahs — War of the +latter people with Bornou and Fundah</td> +<td class="tdr-bot">1</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc large sect"><a href="#c11">CHAPTER +XI.</a> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdl-top hang1">The Author resumes his Narrative — +African huts — Recreations and evening amusements of his Master and +himself — Illness of Captain Clapperton — His sufferings — Perfect +resignation under them — His death — Burial — Character</td> +<td class="tdr-bot">57</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc large sect"><a href="#c12">CHAPTER +XII.</a> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdl-top hang1">The Author’s severe indisposition and +distress of mind — Conduct of Bello — Departure from Soccatoo — The +Author almost perishes of thirst in the<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_iv">[iv]</span> “Goober Bush,” where he is deserted by the +faithless Pasko — The King of Jacoba — Horrid death of that +monarch’s slaves — The Author’s arrival at Kano</td> +<td class="tdr-bot">82</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc large sect"><a href="#c13">CHAPTER +XIII.</a> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdl-top hang1">Pasko — The Author pays his respects to +the Governor, and leaves Kano — Chooses, near Bebajie, the road to +Fundah — Almena mountain — The Author is seen and recognised by +horsemen from Zeg Zeg — Arrives amongst the people of Bowchee — +Their manners — A girl’s lamentation on being sold by her mother — +The Author enters the immense plain of Cuttup — Anecdote of an old +woman</td> +<td class="tdr-bot">100</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc large sect"><a href="#c14">CHAPTER +XIV.</a> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdl-top hang1">The Author overtaken at Dunrora by four +armed horsemen from Zeg Zeg, who force him to accompany them back +to Zaria — His reflections — Arrives in Zaria — Treatment of the +King and his son towards the Author — His entrance into Coulfo in +Nyffé — Revisits Wow Wow — The noted widow Zuma</td> +<td class="tdr-bot">128</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc large sect"><a href="#c15">CHAPTER +XV.</a> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdl-top hang1">The Author becoming entangled, whilst +crossing a river, in the stirrups of his horse’s saddle, is +thrown<span class="pagenum" id="Page_v">[v]</span> from its back, +and narrowly escapes drowning — Arrival at Khiama — Eccentric +conduct of the Prince of that State — Anecdote of his messenger — +Pasko’s thieving propensities turned to account — The Author enters +Katunga, the capital of Yariba — His reception by Mansolah, its +monarch — Song of five hundred of his Wives — Fetish-hut</td> +<td class="tdr-bot">176</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc large sect"><a href="#c16">CHAPTER +XVI.</a> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdl-top hang1">Ebo the celebrated fat Eunuch — The +Yaribeans not very delicate in the choice of what they eat — Dress +of the different people in the interior — Treatment of invalids — +Tattoo marks of different nations — The Author is urged to become +Son-in-law to Mansolah, Generalissimo of his forces, and Prime +Minister of State — Names of Towns — Departure from Katunga — +Anecdote of a gang of robbers — Mungo Park’s son — Arrival at +Badagry</td> +<td class="tdr-bot">201</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc large sect"><a href="#c17">CHAPTER +XVII.</a> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdl-top hang1">Novel method adopted by Europeans for +conveying slaves on board their vessels — Conduct of the Portuguese +Merchants, resident at Badagry, towards the Author — The White +Negroes — Manners and ceremonies of the Badagrians — Horrid +indifference with respect to the Shedding of Human Blood — Murder +of two of the King’s wives by moonlight</td> +<td class="tdr-bot">238</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc large sect"><span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_vi">[vi]</span><a href="#c18">CHAPTER XVIII.</a> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdl-top hang1">The Fetish-huts and tree at Badagry — +Owing to the insinuations of the Portuguese the Author is examined +by the Priests of the Fetish, and compelled to swallow bitter +water, being the only European that ever underwent that dreadful +ordeal — His thoughts when informed of the circumstance — +Astonishing preservation from an expected cruel death — Sacrifices +of human beings under the branches of the Fetish-tree, exceeding in +atrocity any thing heard of before — Song of the inhabitants, with +Adólee at their head, on the occasion — The Author, on his visit to +a Portuguese pirate, discovers the sacred Fetish-tree of the +Badagrians growing in the heart of the forest, and covered with +dismembered corpses of human beings — The Portuguese</td> +<td class="tdr-bot">252</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc large sect"><a href="#c19">CHAPTER +XIX.</a> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdl-top hang1">Captain Laing, of the Brig Maria, of +London, hearing that an Englishman was at Badagry, comes from +Whydah to fetch the Author — His reflections on leaving Badagry, +and on reaching the British vessel — The Maria sails for Cape +Coast, where the Author lands, and is taken on board the Esk sloop +of war, which Vessel sails for England — The Turtles — Arrival in +England, &c.</td> +<td class="tdr-bot">276</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<hr class="chap"> + +<p class="center spaced2 pb"><span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_1">[1]</span><span class= +"large letter-spaced01">WANDERINGS</span><br> +<span class="small">IN</span><br> +<span class="large"><span class= +"letter-spaced01">AFRIC</span>A.</span> +</p> + +<hr class="decor width5"> + +<h2 class="nopb"><a id="c10"></a>CHAPTER X.</h2> + +<p class="csum">Character of the Africans in general — Their social +qualities considered — Succinct remarks on the Natural History of +the Interior — Yam Yams — Arabs — Falatahs — War of the latter +people with Bornou and Fundah.</p> + +<p><span class="sc">The</span> character Plutarch gives of the +Athenians is strictly applicable to the people of Africa in +general, <em>in times of peace</em>:—“They are easily provoked to +anger, and as easily induced to resume sentiments of benevolence +and compassion.” This we found to be true in numberless instances; +particularly amongst the gentler sex, whose apprehensions are +quicker and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_2">[2]</span> more +lively, and whose finer feelings more easily excited than those of +their male companions. We not unfrequently observed persons +quarrelling and fighting in one moment, with all the bitterness of +angry and elevated passions, and in the next as gentle as lambs, +and the most cordial friends in the universe; forgetting their +previous noisy dispute in the performance of reciprocal acts of +kindness and good nature.</p> + +<p>The African, ceaselessly engaged in sleeping, warfare, drinking, +&c. takes little, if any, delight in his own family circle. His +is no <em>domestic</em> life: his children never prattle round his +knee; his eye never glistens with tenderness on receiving their +innocent caresses; his numerous wives, who are valued as a distinct +and inferior order of beings, weaken his affections and blunt his +feelings; and he regards them with looks of indifference or +contempt. With him,</p> + +<div class="linegrp-container"> +<div class="linegrp"> +<div class="group"> +<div class="line indent0">“All claims that bind and sweeten +life,”</div> +</div> +</div> +</div> + +<p class="nind">are, indeed, unknown; and, provided his wants be +supplied, unless aroused from his stupor by any particular event, +he journeys calmly on, with the most listless indifference +imaginable,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">[3]</span> scarcely +deigning to bestow a solitary thought either on his country, or his +wives and children. He holds the dead, however, in the greatest +veneration, hardly venturing to let the name of a deceased relative +escape his lips; and if, when engaged in contentious bickerings, +his opponent alludes to them in a disrespectful manner, he +interrupts him with this energetic expression: “Curse <em>me</em>; +slay <em>me</em>, if thou wilt; but do not rake up the ashes of the +dead. Let them rest in peace, or thou thyself shalt follow them to +the grave.”</p> + +<p>The natives are passionately fond of storytelling, and listen +for hours after the setting of the sun, with a gravity truly comic, +to the recital of tales of the most wonderful and incredible +description, in which they repose implicit belief. The following +was told me with an air of great solemnity, and with a full +conviction of its truth, by a native of Goober:—</p> + +<p>“Doncasson, Prince of that province, ordered a number of men to +build houses at the distance of three miles from Coonia, the +capital, which they undertook to finish within a given +number<span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">[4]</span> of days. The +workmen, contrary to their expectation, could find no water in the +neighbourhood of the spot, nor, indeed, at a shorter distance than +Coonia; and having no vessels large enough to convey a sufficient +quantity within the time specified, they were put to their wits’ +end, in what manner to act, fearing that in the event of the +non-fulfilment of their engagement a dreadful punishment would +await them. In this dilemma they applied for advice to a female +fortune-teller, residing in the city, who, having accompanied them +to the scite of the intended hamlet, ordered an immense heap of +earth, sufficient for the walls of the buildings, to be thrown up; +when the old woman immediately supplied them with the water +required, in the same manner as Gulliver extinguished the dreadful +fire that threatened to destroy the capital of the kingdom of +Lilliput, on his visit to that country; and thus the buildings of +Doncasson were finished a week earlier than was expected.”</p> + +<p>The persons of the Africans, of both sexes, are perfectly +well-formed. I never saw an individual in the whole country with a +hump on his<span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">[5]</span> back, or +any other species of deformity whatever; and this will appear the +more strange when it is considered that no people in the world pay +less attention to their offspring in their tender years. We +frequently saw individuals with only one hand, the other having +been amputated as a punishment; but never met with a person that +had lost a leg. The people used to deride us when we affirmed that +some of our countrymen were furnished with <em>wooden</em> legs in +lieu of natural ones, believing that a person could never survive +the loss of so important a member.</p> + +<h3>NATURAL HISTORY.</h3> + +<p>Of the natural history of the regions we traversed I can say but +little, my very limited and imperfect acquaintance with that +interesting study, in either of its branches, incapacitating me +from giving any thing like a description of the various productions +of the soil, or of the numerous animals that inhabit the woods or +the rivers.</p> + +<p>Magnificent forests of tall trees are scattered over the face of +the country from Badagry to Soccatoo, and afford, in their gloomy +solitudes,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">[6]</span> shelter to +numerous species of reptiles and wild beasts. The palm, the cocoa, +the tamarind, the banana, the fig, the date (a species of palm), +the butter, and other trees, are indigenous; and several varieties +of plum grow in woods of Yariba, as well as a tree bearing a fruit +similar in size and appearance to our “love apple,” and in flavour, +to the <em>cashew</em> apple of the West Indies. Stunted orange, +lemon, and lime trees, bearing fruit of inferior quality, may also +be found growing wild in that region, but are made little use of by +the natives, who know not how to improve them; the people have +likewise water-melons, guayavas, papaws, &c. &c. The cotton +plant, indigo, rice, wheat, yams, maize, Guinea corn, dourra, six +or seven other varieties of corn, the plantain, sweet potatoes, +onions, and cassada, are cultivated to a great extent in the +interior countries.</p> + +<p>Reptiles are exceedingly numerous, but the bites of few of them, +as far as I was able to learn, are attended with fatal effects. We +frequently saw in the woods of Borghoo and Houssa a large species +of snake swinging in the sun-beams,<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_7">[7]</span> with its tail encircling the branch of a tree; +but on the approach of a human creature, it would attain the summit +in an instant, and look from its elevation on the head of the +person beneath. The boa constrictor we rarely met with alive; on my +journey from Kano, however, I espied one of them, of about the +bigness of a man’s thigh, coiled up like a rope, and partially +concealed by fallen branches and leaves of trees. I watched the +monster attentively for a moment or two, being within a few yards +of the spot: but at length observing me, it attempted to hide +itself, when I immediately discharged my piece at its head, and in +all probability wounded the animal, although it eluded a rigorous +search that I caused to be made after it. The beautiful reptile +called at the Cape of Good Hope the puff-adder, is unknown in the +central parts of the continent; but a slender green snake, +elegantly variegated with black, which is sometimes met with in the +former country, is seen in almost every inhabited place of the +latter. I have frequently observed, on awaking in the morning, one +or more of these reptiles, gliding from<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_8">[8]</span> underneath the mat on which I had been +sleeping, towards the door of the hut, and so making their escape. +The bite is speedily mortal. Another snake, about two feet long, of +a greyish colour, whose bite is also fatal, is found in many parts +of the country. Pasko snatched up an adder of this description one +day, thinking it to be a bit of decayed wood, covered with lichen, +which it greatly resembles; but feeling the reptile twisting itself +round his fingers, he cast it from him before it had power to bite, +and immediately fainted from excess of fear. The natives hold all +poisonous snakes in the greatest dread, and can never be induced to +touch them, even after they are destroyed, believing that, although +there be no cut on the hand by which it could so enter, their venom +yet attaches itself to the skin, and insinuates itself into the +blood of the person that seizes it.</p> + +<p>Of insects the most formidable are the ant, the locust, the +mosquito, the centipede (a peculiarly hideous animal), and the +scorpion. The bites of the two latter are attended with danger; but +although they frequently visited us in our tents<span class= +"pagenum" id="Page_9">[9]</span> and huts, we never had the +ill-fortune to suffer from their attacks.</p> + +<p>Wild animals, in incredible numbers, abound in the woods; +amongst which are the lion, elephant, tiger, tiger-cat, panther, +leopard, hyena, wolf, and hog. The camel is found in a wild state +in Houssa; and that beautiful animal the giraffe, or cameleopard, +also inhabits the forests of the same country. I saw three of them +in my travels between Zaria, Kano, and Soccatoo; they are +excessively timid, and are rarely, if ever, caught by the natives. +Although the tremendous roar of the lion, which made the woods +tremble, could be heard by us when travelling at all hours of the +night; yet I never saw but two of those ferocious animals, a male +and female; which incident has already been mentioned in a +preceding part of my narrative.</p> + +<p>The elephant is annually becoming more shy and scarce in the +interior. The country people say that they have been taught the +value of their tusks, and therefore studiously avoid, as often as +possible, the haunts of man, by penetrating<span class="pagenum" +id="Page_10">[10]</span> more deeply into the bosom of their +ancient forests. Be this as it may, they are not so frequently seen +in Houssa as formerly, and less often slain; and although numerous +traces of them were perceptible in the woods, we never met with a +considerable number at one time in all our journeyings. Elephants +are more numerous in the deep woods on the borders of the Quorra, +near the island of Boussa, than in any other place whatever. This +may be accounted for by the king of that country having interdicted +his subjects, under dreadful penalties, from slaying them. The +fetish of the same monarch is a white elephant; and it is believed +that he can assume the form of that animal whenever inclination or +necessity may prompt him to disguise himself. Hence elephants are +held in considerable veneration by all ranks in Boussa; and the +figure of a <em>white</em> one is worshipped as a god in that +kingdom.</p> + +<p>I have often heard it remarked, that the elephant is as sluggish +in his motions as he is unwieldly in appearance; but this is by no +means the case. In proportion to his size, he is as<span class= +"pagenum" id="Page_11">[11]</span> fleet as other animals, which I +learnt to my cost in South Africa; for on going out shooting one +day I disturbed a huge elephant, which, unobserved by me, was +standing at a very short distance. The animal immediately pursued +me; but it being a few seconds before he could disentangle his legs +from the thick underwood that grew on the spot, I was considerably +in advance before he got into open ground. The beast ran much +faster than I, and would have overtaken me in a few minutes, if a +dog that was with me had not made an alarm which drew our party out +of their encampment, fixed at no great distance, who came to my +assistance, and drove the animal back. As it was, I was almost +frightened to death, and resolved never again to come to such close +quarters with an elephant, bulky as he might be; since that quality +does not prevent him from using his gigantic legs with elegance and +dispatch.</p> + +<p>Of all untamed animals in Central Africa, hyenas are most to be +dreaded; they are astonishingly bold and ferocious, and commit +great depredations on the domestic animals of the<span class= +"pagenum" id="Page_12">[12]</span> natives. The howl of these +creatures is truly terrific, and their demoniacal laugh is enough +to appal the stoutest heart; hundreds of them used to pass and +repass our tent in the woods by night, our fires alone preventing +them from commencing an attack on our persons. The wild hog also +does a great deal of mischief; they visit the plantations in +immense droves, and destroy the corn, or whatever else may be +growing on them. They inhabit the woods of Houssa, but more +particularly those in the vicinity of Soccatoo, where they are +found in considerable numbers; but no pains are taken by the +inhabitants of that city to exterminate them; in fact the +Mohammedan portion of the community would rather embrace a leper +than touch the skin of one of these abhorred animals; and there +cannot be a greater affront than to give a Falatah the epithet of +“pork-eater.”</p> + +<p>The domestic animals are the camel, horse, ass, ox, pig, goat, +sheep, &c.; turkeys, ducks (the Muscovy kind), geese, the +Guinea and common fowl, are also tamed. The turkey is no where to +be met with after leaving Yariba; nor is the<span class="pagenum" +id="Page_13">[13]</span> camel seen in that or any other country +between it and the coast. Although the pig is detested by the +Falatahs, the Mohammedan negro feasts on its flesh without the +slightest reluctance, as do likewise the Pagan natives +indiscriminately. The large species of ox with the hump, was first +brought into Houssa, Nyffé, Borghoo, Yariba, Cuttum Cora, Cubbé, +&c. by the Falatahs, the native breed being diminutive, and +without the hump. The beef of both kinds is always dry, and tough +as leather; and as by reason of the heat it never gets perfectly +cool, or solid, it is very indifferent eating. The sweetest and +most palatable animal food, is the flesh of kids, which is publicly +sold in the markets at a reasonable rate.</p> + +<p>The native horse of the countries above enumerated, is +particularly small and shaggy; it is generally of a mouse colour, +with hair as soft and fine as silk; and, like the ass, has a black +streak placed transversely on the back and shoulders. The finest +horses are imported from Bornou, which country supplies every other +in the interior with that useful animal; and these are +handsome,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">[14]</span> powerful +beasts. The ass is common in the interior, and for size, speed, +strength, and beauty, surpasses any animal of its kind I have ever +seen, not even excepting the most approved of the famous Spanish +breed. They are highly valued by the natives, and in some instances +are preferred to the horse. Sheep and goats are plentiful, but are +of very inferior description; none of the former are to be found +with the enormous tail of fat which so peculiarly distinguishes +that animal at the Cape; but, as in all tropical countries, they +have hair instead of wool. Dogs and asses are eaten in Yariba, and +their flesh is much sought after.</p> + +<p>Of the feathered tribe, there are various species, of rich and +brilliant plumage. Parrots, Guinea fowls in a wild state, and a +variety of doves, are seen in the branches of the beautiful trees, +and by their chattering and cooing, impart a grateful animation to +the spot near which they may happen to take up their abode. The +golden pigeon is sometimes to be seen; its ground colour is a rich +and vivid blue, and the feathers on the breast and under the wings +are<span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">[15]</span> tinged with a +glittering yellow, whence it takes its name. The grey pelican +abounds on the margins of rivers and streams in Houssa; it is much +less than the white pelican, and the beak in particular is +considerably smaller than that of the latter species. The former +are found in immense numbers, more especially at a place called +Zulamee, and build their nests close to the water’s edge, near to +which they always stand to feed their young. The eggs are esteemed +as a delicacy by the natives; but the flesh of the bird is of so +offensive a flavour that it cannot be eaten. It is somewhat +singular that the opinion of the pelican feeding its young with its +blood is as general in Houssa as it is amongst the lower class of +people in Europe; and to this belief I must acknowledge myself a +proselyte! I have stood for a long while together by the side of +this stupid animal, watching its motions, and seeing it bending its +head for its offspring to extract their nourishment. The young ones +thrust their beaks into a small round aperture at the lower part of +the back of the neck of their parent, and they swallow the +substance<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">[16]</span> that flows +freely through. If it be not blood that issues from the old bird, +it is a red liquid so closely resembling it, that the difference +cannot be perceived. I took a sketch of a pelican feeding its young +in this manner, in Houssa, which is now in my possession; and I +should not have said so much on the subject, if my assertions had +not been questioned by several of my countrymen.</p> + +<div class="figcenter iw2"> +<figure id="i2"><a href="images/i2.jpg"><img src='images/i2.jpg' +alt="Pelicans feeding their young" title= +"Pelicans feeding their young"></a> +</figure> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">[17]</span>I met with few of +the species of birds to be found in Southern Africa, in the more +central parts. A rook having a white ring round its throat, is the +same in both regions, as is also a small bird called in the former +country <em>finy fink</em>, and in the latter the “harvest-bird.” +Its feathers are fine, soft, and silky; but retain their splendid +colour only whilst the corn is in the ground, changing its plumage +to a russet brown as soon as the grain is fairly housed, which is +just about the period that its young are able to take wing. There +are two varieties of this beautiful bird, the colours of the one +being yellow and black, and those of the other a bright scarlet, or +red and black.</p> + +<p>The rivers swarm with fish, which, generally speaking, are not +very delicious eating; and the consumption of them is confined +chiefly to the lower orders of the community. Crocodiles in +incredible numbers infest the rivers and streams from Badagry to +Soccatoo, and are held in considerable dread. I never saw any of +these amphibious monsters of such exceeding length and enormous +dimensions as I have heard spoken of;<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_18">[18]</span> the largest I saw measuring no more than from +fourteen to eighteen feet in length, and of proportionate bulk. +They sometimes attack the human species; but such instances of +their ferocity are not so often displayed as the natives would wish +strangers to believe, for, being fond of the terrible, they magnify +the most trifling incident in the world to one of excessive horror. +The eggs of the crocodiles are eaten by the people, and greatly +esteemed; they are certainly preferable to their hen’s eggs, which +are rarely more than half hatched, and when dressed look and taste +like water and curdled milk. They are also superior in flavour to +the eggs of the penguin, and although larger, closely resemble them +in appearance when boiled, the yolk in both being of a pale yellow, +and the more liquid part of a delicate blue. The former are used as +charms by the natives of Yariba and Borghoo, not only to deter +crocodiles from visiting their villages, but likewise to avert the +“Evil Eye.”</p> + +<h3><span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">[19]</span>THE YAM YAM.</h3> + +<p>The Yam Yam, in his most conspicuous traits, is alike different +from the Falatah, the Arab, and him that claims a Bornou descent, +resembling, as nearly as possible, the Caffre of the southern +interior. The same open, manly countenance—the same jetty blackness +of skin—the same noble but restless eye—the same advantageous +stature, and athletic, powerful form, are observable in both +savages; and they have a like fondness for pastoral pursuits; but +the Yam Yam differs from the Caffre in being a cannibal. He is +accused by every nation of the revolting crime of eating his own +species; yet the united testimony of every nation might be +questioned as arising from prejudice or dislike, if he did not +confess it himself. A Yam Yam told me at Kano, deliberately and +seriously, that his countrymen not only devour the bodies of their +enemies taken in battle, but feed on the flesh of their friends and +companions, purchased from human shambles!</p> + +<h3><span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">[20]</span>THE ARABS.</h3> + +<p>This ancient and extraordinary people are spread like locusts +over the central parts of the continent; and, like locusts also, +have left marks of their devastating qualities wherever they have +appeared. Both Saracen and Moor fall under the general denomination +of <em>Arab</em>; and although it is said that the former made an +irruption and settled in the northern parts as early as the seventh +or eighth century, and the Arabs three or four centuries +subsequently to that era, there does not appear at this time to be +the least difference in the persons or manners of the whole. At +whatever period they crossed the desert, however, it is certain +that the wild and fanatical religion of Mohammed accompanied them, +and that they preached it with zeal and energy amongst the natives, +making innumerable converts to the new and strange doctrine.</p> + +<p>The Arabs in Houssa and other parts have, unhappily, lost all +trace of their ancient splendour, as well as the characteristic +features of their countrymen. Like the Jews in Barbary, monopolize +not only all the trade, but likewise all<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_21">[21]</span> the money concerns of the state and people; +degenerating from a restless, but high-minded and imaginative race, +to the vilest and most grovelling on the face of the earth. They +pluck the ignorant and superstitious aborigines of their substance +with impunity, and perpetrate the most revolting crimes for the +bare love of gain. Some of them are observed straggling from one +end of the African continent to the other, practising, like +wandering quacks, the most shameful impositions in the different +towns and villages through which they may happen to pass. An Arab +mallam selling the small balls of tin to a native chief, which has +been already mentioned, is a proof of this; and hundreds of other +examples might be adduced, if necessary, as a further corroboration +of the truth of my assertion. They also tell fortunes, and by +various incantations pretend to discover the authors of robberies +or mischief of any kind that may have been effected. Some again +remain stationary in cities and in courts, ever ready to take +advantage of circumstances to cheat and embezzle, and to enrich +themselves at the expense of the<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_22">[22]</span> prince or the public; and, although they are +so numerous in the interior, I do not believe there exists half a +dozen honest men amongst them. Unacquainted with the brilliant +achievements that shed so rich a lustre over his earlier history, +the Arab of the internal districts of Africa ceases to retain the +politeness, the gallantry, the lofty enthusiasm, and the love for +the fine arts, which distinguished his ancestors under the Califs; +and even the desire of collecting and preserving Arabic +manuscripts, which for a long time prevailed amongst his +countrymen, is now wholly extinct. Intolerant and bigoted in their +religious principles, the Arabs look with invincible contempt on +all those differing from them in opinion; and their dislike to +Christians in particular is inveterate and deeply-rooted. They did +their utmost to prejudice the minds of the rulers as well as the +<em>canaille</em> of Africa against us, by propagating the most +unfavourable rumours of our character and our motives; and +partially succeeded in convincing them that we were either spies or +robbers; insomuch that the term “Christian” became in +disrepute<span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">[23]</span> with a +large portion of all ranks, and a watchword for reproaches and +indignities of every description. Jealous and malevolent, and +fearful that through our means the great fabric of imposture they +had reared with so much facility on the basis of superstition would +be overthrown, as well as their lucrative trade with the natives +ruined, they watched all our actions with distrust and alarm; and +although they covered their faces with smiles on visiting us, or on +accosting us in the streets, those looks of kindness were put on +only to lull us into a security, and to impress us with the belief +that they were our best friends. Their relentless malice at length +displayed itself; for by repeatedly throwing out indirect +insinuations on our integrity in the hearing of Sultan Bello, these +Arabs succeeded in undermining our reputation in the eyes of that +monarch; the consequences of which hastened the death of my valued +master, together with the failure of the African Mission—for, to +the perfidious endeavours of those scoundrels I must attribute our +detention in Soccatoo, and all the misfortunes which attended that +restraint.</p> + +<h3><span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">[24]</span>THE +FALATAHS.</h3> + +<p>The Falatahs, as a people, are perhaps not less extraordinary +than the Arabs, whom they formerly resembled in their unsettled, +wandering habits, and simple manners. No one can tell their origin, +from what country they at first emigrated, or to what extent they +have scattered themselves. They have overrun the continent from +east to west, and are found tending their flocks and herds near the +sea, and warring with success in the interior: some of them profess +the Mohammedan religion, and some worship stocks and stones; but +all speak the same language, and have the same ceremonies and +amusements. The negroes who have travelled farthest have declared +to me that Falatahs are every where to be met with, seldom mixing +with the owners of the soil; but, like the gipsies of Europe, +keeping themselves a peculiar and distinct people.</p> + +<p>When I was at Graham’s Town, Cape of Good Hope, in 1824, two +copper-coloured men, who had incautiously separated themselves from +their companions, were found wandering in the<span class="pagenum" +id="Page_25">[25]</span> woods in the vicinity of the place, and +brought into it by a body of Caffres; they excited at the time a +great deal of curiosity, and conjecture was afloat as to what +particular nation they could have belonged to. For my part, from +what I now know, I have every reason for believing that those very +men were Falatahs; and I have a strong persuasion within my own +breast that the tribe called in Southern Africa the <em>Red</em> +Caffre, and the Falatah of the eastern and central parts, are one +and the same people! I do not affirm that they <em>are</em> +actually the same; I only state it as my decided conviction that +they have sprung from one common source. I know nothing of the +language of the Red Caffre, but he certainly does not differ from +the Falatah in personal appearance; and by all accounts the +manners, customs, and ceremonies of both are precisely the same. It +would be a truly magnificent undertaking to traverse the unexplored +regions between Leetakoo and the (so called) Mountains of the Moon; +and every way worthy the courage and enterprise of an Englishman. I +really believe that a person acquainted with the genius +and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">[26]</span> usages of the +natives, and possessing a persevering, undaunted spirit, with an +unruffled temper, would find no insurmountable difficulties against +accomplishing this object, stupendous as it may at first appear; he +might soon and easily accommodate himself to the manners of the +Africans, which are generally mild and simple, and do not differ, +in many very essential points, from the Cape to Bornou; and leaving +gradually, and almost imperceptibly, the healthy for the +insalubrious climates, his frame would be prepared, by such +degrees, to encounter the transition.</p> + +<p>At one time the Falatahs never resided in towns, but rambled, +with their flocks and herds, from place to place, as pasturage and +water might invite their steps. They journeyed in companies, having +no particular chief, or regular form of government; and their +numbers were at first too contemptible to excite the notice, still +less the fears, of the aborigines. Into Houssa they stole +insensibly by “ones and twos,” and finding that fertile and +beautiful country much to their liking, they took up a permanent +abode<span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">[27]</span> in the woods at +no great distance from the spot on which Soccatoo now stands.</p> + +<p>By some secret intelligence or correspondence, hordes of their +straggling countrymen soon gathered around them, and they at length +built a town in the province of Goober, in Houssa, and chose for +themselves a chief, named Danfodio. This man was well versed in the +religion of Mohammed, and had derived from the figurative language +and splendid diction of the Koran, a visionary and romantic turn of +mind, which prompted him to undertake novel and daring exploits, +not unworthy that great legislator whose work he had so intently +studied. He began at first to meddle with the polity of the ruling +prince of Goober, and adopted the language of dictation to that +imbecile monarch, which not being altogether agreeable to the royal +mind, the newly built Falatah town was levelled with the dust, and +the chief himself, with all his people, driven out of the country +into the woods, wherein they erected another town; and the Falatahs +from the east and west flocked, in considerable numbers, to the +standard<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">[28]</span> of their +countryman. Finding his strength daily and hourly increasing, +Danfodio divided his men into bands, or companies, and nominating a +captain to each fifty, bade them go forth and conquer in the name +of the Prophet, for that God had given them the lands and houses of +the natives. He also embraced the opportunity of impressing upon +the minds of the leaders, with admirable eloquence, the most +prominent features of the religion they professed; and artfully +insinuated the exalted and unfading happiness which those who fell +in the cause of Mohammed would be entitled to in the other world. +The captains, filled with ardour and enthusiasm, found little +difficulty in the accomplishment of the task imposed upon them by +their crafty leader. With a handful of men the flourishing and +important city of Kano was taken and pillaged; and other parties +overran the country and subjugated the people, telling them that +the Almighty had given them their possessions for an inheritance; +and that they themselves, with their offspring, must ever after be +their slaves and bondsmen. The stupid natives<span class="pagenum" +id="Page_29">[29]</span> were palsied with fear, and understanding +little or nothing of the Koran, knew not what to think of the +strange doctrines of the Prophet sprung up so suddenly and +unexpectedly amongst them. Danfodio’s pretensions, therefore, were +seldom disputed; the Houssans have often declared to me that the +strength and inclination to “shake the spear!” were denied them; +they had no will of their own,—their hands fell powerless by their +sides, and they felt as if they had been touched by the finger of a +god, or were under the influence of an eastern talisman. Abandoning +their wives and children to the mercy of the invaders, they +consented to lose their liberty, and fell, like “silly sheep,” into +the snare that had been laid for them with so little art; not even +attempting to struggle with their oppressors; or if so, making +efforts as puny and ineffectual as the fluttering of a fly in a +spider’s web. Of all the provinces in Houssa, Goober alone made a +show of resistance; its monarch invested Danfodio in his own town, +but being repulsed with loss, made a precipitate retreat to Coonia, +the capital<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">[30]</span> of his +kingdom. He was pursued thither with slaughter by the Falatahs, +who, in their turn, surrounded his town, and succeeded in slaying +him in a sally, when the inhabitants, deprived of a leader, +immediately capitulated, and bowed their necks to the yoke of the +Falatah chieftain. All Houssa was now in subjection; Bornou was +attacked with success; the dynasty of that ancient kingdom tottered +to its foundation, and its monarch trembled on his throne. The +Falatahs pushed their almost bloodless conquests to Nyffé, and +conquering part of that country with the whole of Cubbé and Youri, +had the audacity to enter Katunga, the metropolis of Yariba, which +being an idolatrous city, was set on fire; but the inhabitants, +recovering from the panic into which they had been so suddenly +thrown, rallied, and turning upon the incendiaries, compelled them +to make a precipitate, and disgraceful retreat. For some reason, +which I could never exactly comprehend, Danfodio hastily recalled +his victorious soldiers, and concentrating his power in Houssa, +founded the city of Soccatoo, somewhere about<span class="pagenum" +id="Page_31">[31]</span> the year 1798, which he resolved should be +the metropolis of his usurped empire. Here he lived in peace for +many years, uniting in his own person, like his celebrated +prototype, the sacerdotal and kingly offices; and ruled his people +with candour, equity, and justice. As soon as the Arabs were made +acquainted with these sudden and important changes, they hastened, +with well-timed speed, to do homage to the success of his arms and +the wisdom of his councils; and ingratiated themselves so +effectually into the favour of the conqueror, by flattering his +self-love with artful and well-directed encomiums, that he loaded +them with benefits, and intreated them to remain for ever in his +newly-acquired territory. He also presented them with horned +cattle, camels, and slaves, and offered them the most fertile lands +in Houssa, if they would consent to teach his subjects to read the +Koran, and give them an acquaintance with the Arabic language and +literature.</p> + +<p>In the midst of these proceedings, the terrible Danfodio, at +whose name thousands of<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_32">[32]</span> negroes trembled, became religiously mad, and +was often seized with paroxysms of remorse, for having erected a +throne, by the shedding of so much Mussulman blood. In his lucid +intervals, a melancholy preyed upon his mind, and he delivered his +conscience into the hands of the Arab emirs who surrounded him. +These hungry and insatiable adventurers plied the fanatical prince +unceasingly for more valuable presents, as the only means of +appeasing the wrath of offended Heaven; in which object they were +eminently successful; but this failed in alleviating the malady +that afflicted Danfodio, and he expired in great anguish in one of +his fits about the year 1816, to the infinite joy of his conquered +subjects, and the sincere regret of the interested Arabs, and the +aspiring Falatahs. Amongst all people, however, he bore the +reputation of being one of the most extraordinary men that had ever +existed in the interior of Africa; and his enterprizing spirit, +artful stratagems, and perfect acquaintance with the African +character, which the whole tenor of his conduct evinces, show that +the honor he had<span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">[33]</span> +acquired was not founded on popular clamour, or national prejudice; +but that his mind was greatly superior to those of the +semi-barbarians that surrounded him. He had made great and +important changes in the laws and government of the people he had +subjugated to his sway, and created on the ruins of the most +flourishing and beautiful kingdom in the interior, a new dynasty +which is likely to become, in time, the most formidable power in +the whole continent.</p> + +<p>Mohammed Bello, the present Sultan, and eldest son of Danfodio, +ascended the throne, by the unanimous voice of the Falatahs, +shortly after his father’s decease; but the government of the +conquered territory to the westward of Houssa, was awarded to +Mohammed Ben Abdallah, his cousin. Atego, a younger brother of +Bello, attempted to raise a rebellion in furtherance of his own +ambitious projects in opposition to the rightful heir, but being +completely defeated in a pitched battle, by the partizans of Bello, +was taken prisoner, and liberated after a year’s imprisonment in a +common dungeon. He is now on a friendly footing with his +brother,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">[34]</span> but is a +contemptible fellow, and appears to have sunk the dignity of the +prince in the meanness of the man.</p> + +<p>On receiving intelligence of the death of the Sultan of the +Falatahs, the people of Goober, and many of those of the other +conquered provinces, impatient of the galling yoke which they had +been compelled, much against their own inclinations, to bear, rose +simultaneously into an open and general revolt, and put to death, +indiscriminately, every Falatah that had located himself in their +country. Then, forming themselves into a confederacy, with a +variety of leaders at their head, they for a long time waged an +exterminating war with the successor of Danfodio; but their +movements being unconnected and irregular, and anarchy having the +ascendancy in their councils, Bello had reconquered several of the +mutinous districts at the period of our arrival, and made a great +slaughter of the miserable inhabitants. The towns whose gates were +not instantly opened to their summons, the Falatahs surrounded, and +intercepting all communication between the people residing in them +and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">[35]</span> those of the +neighbouring country, prevented any provisions being obtained by +the besieged, and in a manner starved them into capitulation. The +insurgents had made, however, for Africans, a gallant defence; and +well knowing what they had to expect from their sanguinary +adversaries, would not surrender till all their domestic animals +had been consumed, and they themselves reduced to the extremity of +feeding on decoyed vultures, which, next to human flesh, they most +cordially abhor. Having obliged them at length to open the gates, +the Falatahs rushed in, and pouncing upon the emaciated and +unresisting inhabitants, made dreadful havoc of them, putting the +old men and councillors to the edge of the sword; thrusting a sharp +stake into their bodies, and exhibiting them on the tops of the +walls and other conspicuous places, as melancholy trophies of their +success, and as a spectacle of horror for their shuddering +countrymen to profit by. In this situation the ghastly corpses were +exposed, till they had fallen to pieces by the action of the air, +or been devoured by birds of prey. The old women, and young people +of both sexes, who<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">[36]</span> +had escaped the general massacre, were driven in triumph to +Soccatoo, and retained as slaves by their imperious conquerors. +This was the dismal fate of the inhabitants of Coonia, the capital +of Goober, the prince of which country, named Doncasson, with other +young men, laboured as a slave till a year or two before Captain +Clapperton’s first arrival at Soccatoo, (about 1822,) when, +effecting his escape, with the most determined of his countrymen, +he was elected their captain, and being joined by numbers of the +disaffected, marched forthwith to the metropolis of the kingdom of +his ancestors, and vigorously assaulting it by surprise, the +Falatahs, in their turn, after a short and ineffectual resistance, +surrendered to the infuriated Gooberites.</p> + +<p>The merciless Doncasson retaliated upon the inhabitants the +dreadful cruelties which they had so inhumanly inflicted upon his +countrymen not long before; in addition to which, the left hand of +every young woman in the town, in spite of their cries and tears, +was amputated; after which, being set at liberty, they returned +with their mutilated bleeding members, to Soccatoo.<span class= +"pagenum" id="Page_37">[37]</span> I saw several of the unfortunate +creatures in that city who had undergone this barbarous operation; +the hand had been cut off at the wrist, and the wound being left to +nature for a cure, several of the young women had bled to death on +the road.</p> + +<p>Sultan Bello meantime had not been an unconcerned or inactive +spectator of the exploit of Doncasson; he immediately assembled a +strong force, and made repeated attacks on Coonia, but was repulsed +with loss in all his attempts. The belligerents likewise fought two +pitched battles, in which the Falatahs were discomfited, and their +Sultan wounded by a poisoned arrow; by this means the Falatahs were +no longer considered as invincible by the original natives; and, +foiled in all their manœuvres, they returned crest-fallen and +defeated to Soccatoo. Bello soon recovered from the effects of his +wound, but was ever after so excessively afraid of the +<em>Towayahs</em>, as Doncasson’s followers were called, that, +unless protected by a strong escort, neither he nor his people +dared to venture near their territories.</p> + +<p>The Gooberites, at the period of my departure from Soccatoo, had +received a considerable<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_38">[38]</span> reinforcement of cavalry from the Sheikh of +Bornou, and were daily becoming stronger and more formidable to the +Falatahs. Numerous bands of their young men infested the Goober, or +<em>Gondamie</em> “bush,” through which the road to Kano lay. Here +they hid themselves in caves and unfrequented places; but on +receiving intelligence from their scouts of the approach of a body +of the enemy, less powerful than themselves, they would suddenly +emerge from their concealment, and springing upon the ill-fated +Falatahs, generally contrived to capture or destroy them. Hence the +rapidity with which we travelled through the dreaded bush—a +rapidity that, in one instance, had nearly cost me my life; and +hence the exclamation of “O, the Goober Bush!” so general amongst +the Falatahs.</p> + +<h3>WAR WITH BORNOU.</h3> + +<p>The war between the Bornouese and Falatahs, which has been +already mentioned as raging at the time of our arrival in Kano, and +which had caused the Arabs in that city great uneasiness, +originated from the following cause:—A famine<span class="pagenum" +id="Page_39">[39]</span> having impoverished the natives of the +former country, and threatened them with utter destruction, the +Sheikh sent a number of handsome horses, for which his kingdom is +celebrated, as presents to the Governor of Kano, and the chiefs of +other Falatah towns. The animals were delivered to the care of the +ambassadors, who depicted to the receivers of them, in lively +colours, the destitute condition of the people of Bornou; and +intimated a wish that the Falatahs would relieve their wants, by +returning as much corn and other provisions as they could readily +spare, without putting themselves to an inconvenience. The custom +of giving and receiving presents is of very ancient standing in +Africa, and sanctioned by universal adoption. Instead of acceding +to the reasonable desires of the Ruler of Bornou, the Chiefs of all +the towns, excepting the Governor of Kano, kept indeed the horses, +but followed the example of many rude nations of antiquity, as well +as that of more modern times<a id="FNanchor_1"></a><a href= +"#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> and sent back the +ambassadors to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">[40]</span> their +monarch, with bundles of sharp-pointed spears, hinting by these +hieroglyphics, that if the Sheikh wanted corn, he was to come and +fight for it. The Governor of Kano, however, went even a step +beyond this, for he not only retained the horses sent him, but +bound the unsuspecting ambassadors hand and foot, and taking them +to the market-place, the pitiless Falatah publicly butchered them +in cold blood. The consummation of this atrocious act, to which I +was myself a spectator, elicited a universal murmur of +disapprobation from the slaves, who form by far the major part of +the inhabitants of the city; and it was generally feared, from +their deep but not loud execrations, that they would have risen +into open revolt, and revenged the murder of the Bornouese, by +wreaking their vengeance on the head of the perpetrator of the +abominable crime. This effervescence of the public mind, +nevertheless,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">[41]</span> had +subsided at the period of my departure for Soccatoo, without +producing any of the effects so much dreaded by the free population +of Kano; and the recollection of the revolting and sanguinary +action of the Governor was swallowed up in other and more important +incidents.</p> + +<p>As soon as the news of this melancholy catastrophe reached the +ears of the Sheikh of Bornou, who was then at Kouka, the capital of +his empire, he was so violently exasperated, that he swore by the +Prophet he would have an immediate and ample revenge of the +Falatahs for the insult they had offered him; and for this purpose, +instantly assembling a numerous and powerful army, he hastened to +chastise his relentless enemies. The inhabitants of every Falatah +town opened their gates to the Sheikh till he reached Murmur, (the +place in which Dr. Oudney died and was buried by my lamented +master, in the former journey,) where the people who refused to +follow the example set them by their countrymen; and prepared to +defend themselves to the last extremity. The Bornouese, being +unwilling<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">[42]</span> to lose so +much time as the investment of the town, in a formal manner, would +inevitably occasion, contrived to ensnare a number of vultures, by +baiting a crooked bit of iron, sharpened at the extremity, and +resembling in shape a small sized English fish-hook, with pieces of +putrid beef. These instruments, to which a long string was +attached, were eagerly seized by those voracious birds, which by +this means were caught with little difficulty. The soldiers of the +Sheikh had no sooner obtained as many as they fancied would be +necessary, by this stratagem, than they tied pieces of burning +cotton to the claws or tails of the vultures, and so set them at +liberty. The affrighted birds instantly flew into the town, and +alighting on the thatch of the dwellings, of course set them on +fire, and a general conflagration was the almost immediate +consequence.</p> + +<p>This unlooked for calamity distracted the attention of the +besieged; and all flew to arrest the progress of the flames, and to +snatch their children from their burning habitations; whilst the +Bornouese, taking advantage of the general<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_43">[43]</span> consternation that prevailed in the town, +made a sudden rush on the massy gates or doors, (which are made of +the bark of the date tree, fastened and strengthened with iron +clasps,) and so desperate was the assault, that in less than a +minute’s time they had entered the place, and were engaged in their +work of death and slaughter amongst the inhabitants.</p> + +<p>The infuriated Bornouese pursued their way through the burning +streets, amidst the crackling huts of the people, and the general +devastation and ruin—respecting neither party, but frequently +overwhelming both themselves and their enemies in one common +destruction. The male Falatahs were marked out as peculiar objects +of the vengeance of the victorious troops, one only escaping to +tell the dismal tale to his countrymen; but not yet satiated with +blood, the pagan soldiers in the army of the Sheikh captured all +the unoffending females who were running about in every direction, +with their offspring in their arms, or on their breasts; and, as +with the Gooberites, after amputating one of their hands, ejected +them from their town, snatched their children from +their<span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">[44]</span> embraces, and +compelled the poor creatures to wander without protection, and +almost dead with grief and intense suffering, to other towns and +villages, before arriving at which many of them were released by +death.</p> + +<p>Several other Falatah towns were treated in a similar dreadful +manner by the Bornouese, who marched hastily towards Kano; but when +about a day’s journey from that city, were intercepted by the +troops of the king of Jacoba, and other allies of Bello, and coming +to an engagement, the latter were utterly routed by the Sheikh, +after a short but sanguinary contest. The Bornouese obtained +immense booty by this victory, and on drawing near the walls of +Kano, the governor went out to meet them with the joint forces of +that city and the province of Zeg Zeg, when the Falatahs again +suffered a mortifying defeat, and were obliged to flee back into +Kano, the immense wall of which, with its ponderous doors, alone +prevented the victorious Sheikh, flushed with success, and glutted +with revenge, from following them into the town, and annihilating +every soul; in which he<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_45">[45]</span> would undoubtedly have been assisted by the +murmuring slaves.</p> + +<p>Bello, meantime, was gathering together an immense army to +attack the Sheikh, who, being made acquainted with the +circumstance, in order more effectually to secure the booty he had +already required, having fulfilled to the letter his terrible +denunciation on the insolent Falatahs, thought proper to raise the +siege of Kano, and return to his own kingdom, laden with provisions +and spoil; nor did the Gooberites leave it in the power of Bello to +make reprisals on his triumphant adversaries; so that they were +suffered to retreat unmolested to Bornou.</p> + +<p>The old coffee-pot, tent, and drum, which the disappointed +Falatahs boasted, amongst other things, they had captured from the +Bornouese, and which were publicly exhibited as trophies of a +victory they had never won, were owned, the day before I left +Soccatoo, by the discomfited king of Jacoba, as his property, and +restored to that monarch immediately. The prince informed me that +the soldiers of the Sheikh were<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_46">[46]</span> so loaded with articles of greater value, +that they did not think it worth while to have the trouble of +conveying an old worn-out tent, coffee-pot, &c. to Bornou, and +therefore left them behind for the use of their opponents.</p> + +<p>I could hardly forbear laughing to see the animosity which the +Falatahs evinced against the unconscious coffee-pot, and the +dreadful punishments they inflicted upon it, on all occasions, as +if this inanimate vessel could satisfy their thirst for vengeance +on their enemies. I have heard of boys in England, during the +period of the war with France, desperately lopping off the tops of +thistles with a walking-stick, and exclaiming, with appropriate +gesticulation, “Oh, if you were Frenchmen, we would behead you in +this manner!” The expression of the Falatah, with regard to the +coffee-pot, was very similar. I have seen him lift his spear in a +transport of rage, and while his eyes flashed fire, cry out with +dreadful vehemence: “Oh, if you were the Sheikh of Bornou, thus +would I pierce your vile body!” accompanying his words and gesture +by making, with all the fury of excitement and disappointed +revenge, a valorous thrust at<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_47">[47]</span> the ill-used breakfast-preparer of the king +of Jacoba. When it came to be understood, however, that the +coffee-pot did not actually belong to the Bornouese monarch, but +was the property of one of their most faithful allies, they were +overwhelmed with shame and chagrin; but hushed up the matter as +well as they were able, vowing, that as soon as the Gooberites +should give them a short respite, they would be amply revenged on +their spirited and successful antagonists.</p> + +<h3>WAR WITH FUNDAH.</h3> + +<p>Fundah was described to me as being a large and populous city, +the capital of a kingdom of the same name, and situated on the +banks of the Niger. It is defended by a high wall, except the part +facing the sea; and canoes are continually plying up and down the +river, between the town and the bight of Benin. The inhabitants, +having received a quantity of European fire-arms from the coast by +this water-conveyance, no sooner heard of the Falatah conquests, +than they perforated the wall of Fundah with innumerable little +holes, barely large enough to<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_48">[48]</span> admit the barrels of muskets, and light for +the soldiers to distinguish objects without. The city never was +invested in Danfodio’s time, that prince wisely contenting himself +with the subjection of Houssa, &c.; but Bello, his successor, +having cast an envious eye on so rich and flourishing a kingdom, +had long premeditated the conquest of dominions that lay so near +and so commodious for the accomplishment of his ambitious views; +and attempted to carry his well-matured design into execution a few +weeks only after Captain Clapperton had quitted Soccatoo on his +former journey (1824).</p> + +<p>The Sultan accordingly, assembling all his forces, marched with +a formidable army towards the devoted Fundah; and halting about a +half mile from that city, sent the following singular and +characteristic message to the king:—</p> + +<p class="center med space-above15 space-below1">BELLO’S +MESSAGE.</p> + +<p>“Ruler of Fundah! deliver up your country, your riches, your +people, and your slaves, to the beloved of God, Mohammed Bello, +king of all the Mussulmans, without reluctance on<span class= +"pagenum" id="Page_49">[49]</span> your part; for if you do not +suffer him quietly and peaceably to take possession of your +kingdom, in order to propagate the religion of the only true +Prophet in it, he will shed your blood, and the blood of your +children, and the blood of your household; not one shall be left +alive: while your people he will bind with fetters of iron, to be +his slaves and bondsmen for ever—God having so spoken by the mouth +of Mohammed!”</p> + +<p class="center med space-above15 space-below1">KING OF FUNDAH’S +ANSWER.</p> + +<p>“Sultan of the Falatahs! The king of Fundah does not know you or +your Prophet; he laughs your boastings to scorn, and despises your +impotent threats. Go back to your country, and live in peace with +your people; for if you persist in the foolish attempt to invade +his dominions, you will surely fall by his hands; and instead of +his or his subjects being your vassals and bondsmen,—your slaves +shall be his slaves, and your people his people. Your chiefs and +warriors, and mighty men, will he slaughter without mercy, and +their blood shall be sprinkled<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_50">[50]</span> on the walls of his town; while even your +mallams and emirs will he thrust through with spears, and cast +their bodies into the woods, to be devoured by lions and birds of +prey!”</p> + +<p>This insulting and contemptuous message to the beloved of God, +the high-minded Bello, irritated the choler of the Falatah monarch +to so great a degree, that he immediately ordered his cavalry to +advance to the very walls of Fundah; and the conquest of that +important city was already effected in his imagination;—the glory +and fame he was about to acquire filled him with pride of heart, +and the brightest visions of aggrandizement floated in his fancy. +The cavalry were dressed in flowing white tobes; and as they drew +near, the mallams, preceding the horse, read aloud sentences from +the Koran, as they were wont to do, till, approaching within a few +yards of the fatal wall, they made a simultaneous pause for the +infantry to come up. The mallans then embraced the opportunity of +reading a few Mohammedan prayers in Arabic, which no one understood +or cared about; and the army unconcernedly prepared to make +the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">[51]</span> attack. They were +quite easy as to the result of it; and contrary to the solemnity of +the Moslam character, laughed, joked, and made merry amongst +themselves, playing all manner of antics, just like a fool shaking +his bells before the mouth of a cannon about to sweep him to +destruction.</p> + +<p>Meanwhile the king of Fundah had not been idle. Anticipating +what was actually taking place, he had prepared to meet the shock +of his powerful antagonist by every means that could be devised in +so pressing an emergency, rallying the drooping spirits of his +people, and dissipating the dread that even the <em>sound</em> of +the Falatah name could not fail of inspiring. The apertures already +mentioned as being formed in the wall, the prince caused to be +filled with muskets; and placing a soldier at each, watched +attentively the motions and advances of his enemies. He waited +till, as it has already been remarked, the foe, by a strange +indifference, began to play the fool almost close to the walls. +Another moment—and a thousand Falatah jaws were extended to shout +the war-cry of their countrymen, “Allah<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_52">[52]</span> Ackbar!” previously to making the +premeditated assault; but before they had uttered the first +syllable of the sentence, their mouths were suddenly closed by the +salute of a volley of musketry from the fatal wall, which did +dreadful execution amongst them. Hardly knowing what to make of +this rough and ungracious reception, so entirely different from +what they had ever before experienced, they were petrified to the +spot, and could neither fly, nor prosecute the assault against the +town; but kept their stupid eyes foolishly staring into each +other’s countenance, as if to ask the meaning of what had taken +place.</p> + +<p>Whilst the Falatahs were in this state of horrid suspense, and +before they could have time to recover their presence of mind, +another well-directed discharge of fire-arms from the holes in the +wall, completed the general consternation, broke the charm that had +bound them to the soil, and away scampered the heroic Mohammedans +in all directions—Bello, the beloved of God, and king of all the +Mussulmans! being the first to set them the example. At that +instant the men<span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">[53]</span> of +Fundah, rushing from the gates, accelerated the flight of the +invaders, who were terror-stricken on hearing the war-cry of their +pursuers, a loud, wild yell, close at their heels; many of them +were killed, and many taken prisoners, not one of them daring to +make the shadow of resistance, or even venturing to look behind +him. Being loaded with booty, the successful people of Fundah +discontinued the carnage, and returned in triumph to their +city.</p> + +<p>In this disastrous affair, the Falatahs left five hundred of +their best troops dead on the field, besides a vast number of +prisoners and wounded; two hundred of the finest horses in their +empire also fell into the hands of the conquerors, so that the +threat of the Fundah monarch was more than partially accomplished. +This, in African warfare, was considered as a sanguinary contest: +indeed Bello himself was so severely humbled at the decisive and +signal overthrow, that, for a long season afterwards, he was +ashamed to show himself to his people. What surprised the Falatahs +and their prince was the death of so many mallams, who, +being<span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">[54]</span> placed in front +of the horsemen, were consequently more exposed to the fire of the +enemy, and the first victims to the Fundah musketry; but the +greatest wonder of all was the loss of an Arab emir, who received +two shots in his breast, and fell dead from the side of the sultan. +These men were supposed to have a charmed life, and in all +probability believed themselves that they were invulnerable; but +the result proved on what a fragile tenure they had held their +pretensions to impenetrability, and opened, in some measure, the +eyes of the multitude to their abominable deceptions.</p> + +<p>The preceding information was first furnished to me by the king +of Jacoba; and afterwards corroborated in all its particulars by +Mohammed, a Houssa man, and servant of mine, who accompanied me to +Dunrora. He had been himself a spectator of the bloody scene he +described; and fought with the cavalry in the Falatah army, in +their memorable exploit before the walls of Fundah.</p> + +<p>Bello, it was asserted, would not risk the dangers of a second +campaign, the first having<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_55">[55]</span> given him a <em>quietus</em>, which, it was +generally believed, would effectually damp his ardour for conquest +during his lifetime. The Falatahs, a proud, conceited people, and +excessively vain of their national spirit, carefully exclude from +their conversation even an allusion to a defeat; whilst their +victories are always made the most of, and repeated a thousand +times in every company.</p> + +<p>The great eagerness and anxiety which Bello displayed on Captain +Clapperton’s former visit to Soccatoo, to maintain a friendly +intercourse with the English nation, arose undoubtedly from the +expectation, that by the assistance he should derive by that means, +he would find little difficulty in overcoming his enemies: a +universal despotism which he had attempted, singly and unprotected, +to erect over the minds and persons of every Pagan nation in the +interior, being a desideratum with him, towards the accomplishment +of which his thoughts and actions were unceasingly directed.</p> + +<h3><span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">[56]</span>FOOD OF THE +NATIVES.</h3> + +<p>In Houssa, and, generally speaking, in every country in the +interior (except Yariba), the natives have but two meals a-day, one +before sunrise, and the other after sun-set. The breakfast of the +higher classes consists either of rice and milk, or flour and milk, +boiled with honey, and butter manufactured from cow’s milk. The +supper, which is considered the principal meal, is made of a small +quantity of meat stewed in butter, and poured over a bowl of tuah. +Poorer people breakfast on flour and water only; and their +evening’s repast is composed simply of flour boiled in water till +it attains the consistence of pudding, seasoned with a sauce made +from a certain herb, which to the palate of an European would be +most disgusting stuff indeed. With this, however, they are +perfectly contented; and, indeed they are infinitely happier than +the same class of people in Europe.</p> + +<hr class="chap"> + +<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">[57]</span><a id= +"c11"></a>CHAPTER XI.</h2> + +<hr class="decor width5"> + +<p class="csum">The Author resumes his Narrative — African huts — +Recreations and evening amusements of his Master and himself — +Illness of Captain Clapperton — His sufferings — Perfect +resignation under them — His death — Burial — Character.</p> + +<p><span class="sc">My</span> master and myself enjoyed tolerable +health for some weeks after my arrival in Soccatoo, I say +<em>tolerable</em>, for <em>perfect</em> health we felt not even a +single day in Africa. We variously employed our leisure hours as +inclination or circumstances might guide our choice. We each went +a-shooting repeatedly: this was Captain Clapperton’s favourite +amusement, and almost the only out-of-door exercise he was at all +eager to cultivate. He frequently went out with his gun at an early +hour in the morning, and returned not till the evening was pretty +far advanced. On all of these occasions the Captain<span class= +"pagenum" id="Page_58">[58]</span> was dressed in the costume of +the country, which consisted, besides other articles, of a large, +flowing tobe, and a red cap with a white muslin turban: the tobe +was confined to his waist by a broad belt, in which a brace of +pistols and a short dagger were stuck;—thus accoutred, my master +looked more like a mountain robber setting out on a predatory +excursion, than a British naval officer. His beard, also, which he +had permitted quietly to grow, had undisputed possession of his +chin, and was of a truly patriarchal length, extending even below +his breast. This imparted to his countenance a venerable +expression, and to his general appearance a degree of dignity, that +excited the envy and admiration of the Arabs and Falatahs, who +attach great importance to large bushy beards, which they all +strive to obtain by various means.</p> + +<p>The hut in which we resided was a round building, about thirty +yards in circumference, having so small an entrance that we were +obliged to stoop on going into it, and its appearance very much +resembled an immense bee-hive. It<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_59">[59]</span> had no window or other aperture whatever, +besides the door-way already alluded to, so that light was admitted +only from that channel; and the heat of the apartment was from the +same cause rendered almost insupportable, being nearly ten degrees +higher than in the shade outside. The hut was inclosed in a square +yard, at one end of which the horses were confined, and the camels +at another; and sheds were erected close to it, as sleeping +apartments for the servants and slaves.</p> + +<p>For the erection of the walls of their huts, the natives use +clay and earth, without hair, or any other substance. The mortar is +made into round masses, somewhat larger than a skittleball, which +being dried and hardened in the sun, are fit for use, and placed in +tiers like bricks in England. As soon as the walls are raised to +the usual height, the roof is constructed and placed on them; and +the interstices between the tiers of balls and the balls themselves +being filled up with moistened clay, the whole surface is plastered +over with the same material by the hands of the workman, which, +like the tail of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">[60]</span> +beaver, is his only tool, and the hut is then fit to be +inhabited.</p> + +<hr class="decor width5"> + +<p>Before retiring to rest of an evening, cigars we had brought +from England with us were generally produced; and we inhaled their +grateful fragrance oftentimes for an hour or two. This was the only +luxury left us; our tea and sugar had been consumed long before, +and we fared in every respect like the Falatahs themselves. +Squatted on mats in our huts, we spent the lingering hours in +reading aloud, or chatting of our respective homes, and reciting +village anecdotes; and it is really incredible to believe to what a +ridiculous consequence the most trivial incident in the world was +magnified in these our solitary conversations; and how often we +laughed at jests which had been laughed at a thousand times before. +But this can only be felt in an equal degree by persons similarly +circumstanced with ourselves; every other avenue to enjoyment had +been effectually blocked up; nor could we derive any pleasure from +the society of the treacherous Arab or interested Falatah.</p> + +<p>Sometimes, although neither of us was gifted<span class= +"pagenum" id="Page_61">[61]</span> with a voice of much power or +compass, we attempted to sing a few English or Scotch tunes; and +sometimes I played others on my buglehorn. How often have the +pleasing strains of “Sweet, sweet Home,” resounded through the +melancholy streets of Soccatoo? How often have its inhabitants +listened with breathless attention to the music of the white-faced +strangers? and observed to each other, as they went away, “Surely +those Christians are sending a blessing to their country and +friends!” Any thing that reminded my master of his native Scotland +was always heard with interest and emotion. The little poem, “My +native Highland home,” I have sung scores of times to him, as he +has sat with his arms folded on his breast opposite to me in our +dwelling; and notwithstanding his masculine understanding, and +boasted strength of nerve, the Captain used to be somewhat moved on +listening to the lines:</p> + +<div class="linegrp-container"> +<div class="linegrp"> +<div class="group"> +<div class="line indent0">“Then gang wi’ me to Scotland dear,</div> + +<div class="line indent4">We ne’er again will roam;</div> + +<div class="line indent0"> And with thy smile, so bonny, +cheer</div> + +<div class="line indent4">My native Highland home!</div> +</div> + +<div class="group"> +<div class="line indent0"><span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_62">[62]</span>“For blithsome is the breath of day,</div> + +<div class="line indent4">And sweet ’s the bonny broom,</div> + +<div class="line indent0"> And pure the dimpling rills that +play</div> + +<div class="line indent4">Around my Highland home.”</div> +</div> +</div> +</div> + +<p>Thus our lonely evenings were spent; and when the time, the +place, and the thousand other circumstances, are considered, the +puerility of our amusements may surely be pardoned us. Such +entertainments could not fail of awakening melancholy but pleasing +associations within us; and to picture to our imaginations when in +the bosom of Africa, and surrounded by wretches who sought our +destruction, our own free and happy country, its heathy hills and +flowery fields, and contrast them with the withering aspect of +existing scenes, afforded us many an hour of delight and sorrow, +gladness and gloom—although filling us with hopes that proved +delusive, and expectations that we found, by fatal experience, to +be in the highest degree visionary;—for, like the beautiful apple +said to grow on the borders of the Red Sea, our hopes wore a fair +and promising outside, but produced only bitter ashes.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">[63]</span>For two months our +manner of living and occupation were nearly unvaried. The Sheikh of +Bornou had entered Houssa, during this period, with a multitude of +men, and was reported to have laid siege to Kano, after the fall of +which city he was to march to Soccatoo. This news terrified the +inhabitants of the latter place to so great a degree, that every +individual of consequence in it fled to the more secure and remote +town of Magaria; and we were obliged to follow their example; but, +events not turning out agreeably to anticipation, we returned to +Soccatoo in about a week or fortnight afterwards.</p> + +<p>On the 12th of March all thoughts of further enjoyment ceased, +through the sudden illness of my dear kind master, who was attacked +with dysentery on that day. He had been almost insensibly declining +for a week or two previously, but without the slightest symptoms of +this frightful malady. From the moment he was first taken ill, +Captain Clapperton perspired freely, large drops of sweat +continually rolling over every part of his body, which weakened him +exceedingly; and, being unable to obtain any one, even<span class= +"pagenum" id="Page_64">[64]</span> of our own servants, to assist, +I was obliged to wash the clothes, kindle and keep in the fire, and +prepare the victuals with my own hands. Owing to the intense heat, +my master was frequently fanned for hours together: indeed, all my +leisure moments were devoted to this tedious occupation; and I have +often held the fan till, from excessive weakness, it has fallen +from my grasp.</p> + +<p>Finding that, from increasing debility, I was unable to pay that +unremitting attention to the numerous wants of the invalid which +his melancholy state so peculiarly demanded, I sent to mallam Mudey +on the 15th, entreating him to lend me a female slave to perform +the operation of fanning. On her arrival the girl began her work +with alacrity and cheerfulness; but soon becoming weary of her +task, ran away, and never returned to our hut. I was therefore +obliged to resume it myself; and, regardless of personal +inconvenience and fatigue, strained every nerve, in order to +alleviate, as much as possible, the sufferings occasioned by this +painful disorder. My master daily grew weaker, and suffered +severely<span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">[65]</span> from the +intolerable heat of the atmosphere, the thermometer being, in the +coolest place, 107 at twelve at noon, and 109 at three in the +afternoon.</p> + +<p>At his own suggestion I made a couch for him outside our +dwelling, in the shade, and placed a mat for myself by its side. +For five successive days I took him in my arms from his bed to the +couch outside, and back again at sunset, after which he was too +much debilitated to encounter even so trifling an exertion. He +expressed a wish to write once, and but once, during his illness, +but before paper and ink could be handed to him, he had fallen back +on his bed, completely exhausted by his ineffectual attempt to sit +up.</p> + +<p>Fancying by certain suspicious symptoms, that my sick master had +inadvertently taken poison, I asked him one day whether he thought +that in any of his visits to the Arabs or Tuaricks in the city, any +venomous ingredient had been secretly put into the camel’s milk +they had given him to drink, of which he was particularly fond. He +replied, “No, my dear boy, no such thing has been done, I assure +you. Do you remember,”<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_66">[66]</span> he continued, “that when on a shooting +excursion in Magaria, in the early part of February, after walking +the whole of the day, exposed to the scorching rays of the sun, I +was fatigued, and for some time lay under the branches of a tree? +The soil on that occasion was soft and wet, and from that hour to +the present I have not been free from cold. This has brought on my +present disorder, from which, I believe, I shall never +recover.”</p> + +<p>For twenty days the Captain remained in a low and distressed +state, and during that period was gradually but perceptibly +declining; his body, from being strong and vigorous, having become +exceedingly weak and emaciated, and, indeed, little better than a +skeleton. There could not be a more truly pitiable object in the +universe than was my poor dear master, at this time. His days were +sorrowfully and ignobly wasting in vexatious indolence; he himself +languishing under the influence of a dreadful disease, in a +barbarous region, far, very far removed from his tenderest +connections, and beloved country; the hope of life +quenched<span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">[67]</span> in his +bosom; the great undertaking, on which his whole soul was bent, +unaccomplished; the active powers of his mind consumed away; and +his body so torn and racked with pain, that he could move neither +head, hand, nor foot without suppressed groans of anguish; while +the fire and energy that used to kindle in his eye had passed away, +and given place to a glossy appearance—a dull saddening expression +of approaching dissolution.</p> + +<p>In those dismal moments, Capt. Clapperton derived considerable +consolation from the exercise of religious duties; and, being +unable himself to hold a book in his hand, I used to read aloud to +him daily and hourly some portions of the Sacred Scriptures. At +times a gleam of hope, which the impressive and appropriate +language of the Psalmist is so admirably calculated to excite, +would pierce the thick curtain of melancholy that enveloped us; +but, like the sun smiling through the dense clouds of a winter’s +day, it shone but faintly; and left us in a state of gloomier +darkness than before.</p> + +<p>Abderachman, an Arab from Fezzan, intruded<span class="pagenum" +id="Page_68">[68]</span> himself one day into our hut, and wished +to read some Mohammedan prayers to my master, but was instantly +desired to leave the apartment, with a request that he would never +enter it again. This individual was the only stranger that visited +him during his sickness.</p> + +<p>The Captain’s sleep was uniformly short and disturbed, and +troubled with frightful dreams, in which he often reproached the +Arabs with emphasis and bitterness; but being myself almost a +stranger to the language (Arabic) I could not distinctly understand +the tenor of his remarks.</p> + +<p>The unceasing agitation of mind, and exertion of body, which I +had myself undergone in my unremitting duties, (never having in a +single instance slept out of my clothes,) weakened me greatly; and +a fever having come on me not long before my master’s death, hung +upon me for fifteen days, and brought me to the very verge of the +grave. Almost at the commencement of this illness, there being no +other person to assist me in the manner I could wish, I obtained +permission to take Pasko again into our service. As soon as he +entered the hut, the repentant<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_69">[69]</span> old man fell upon his knees before the couch +of his sick master, and intreated so piteously to be forgiven for +the offences of which he had been guilty, that he was desired to +rise, with a promise to overlook all that had passed, if his +after-conduct should correspond with his apparent penitence.</p> + +<p>By this means, the washing and all the drudgery were taken from +my shoulders, which enabled me to devote my whole time and +attention to my affectionate master’s person; and, indeed, all my +energies were required to bear me up under the pressure that almost +bowed me to the dust. I fanned the invalid nearly the whole of the +day, and this seemed to cool the burning heat of his body, of which +he repeatedly complained. Almost the whole of his conversation +reverted to his country and friends, although I never heard him +regret his having left them; and he was patient and resigned to the +last, a murmur of disappointment never escaping his lips.</p> + +<p>On the first of April the patient became considerably worse; +and, although evidently in<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_70">[70]</span> want of repose, the virulence of his +complaint prevented him from enjoying any refreshing slumbers. On +the 9th, Maddie, a native of Bornou whom my master had retained in +his service, brought him about twelve ounces of green bark, from +the butter-tree, recommended to him by an Arab in the city; and +assured us that it would produce the most beneficial effects. +Notwithstanding all my remonstrances, a decoction of it was ordered +to be prepared immediately, the too-confiding invalid remarking +that no one would injure him. Accordingly, Maddie himself boiled +two basons full, the whole of which stuff was swallowed in less +than an hour.</p> + +<p>On the following day he was greatly altered for the worse, as I +had foretold he would be, and expressed regret for not having +followed my advice. About twelve o’clock at noon, calling me to his +bed-side, he said,</p> + +<p>“Richard! I shall shortly be no more; I feel myself dying.” +Almost choked with grief, I replied,</p> + +<p>“God forbid! my dear master; you will live many years to +come.”</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">[71]</span>“Do not be so much +affected, my dear boy, I intreat you,” rejoined he; “you distress +me by your emotion; it is the will of the Almighty; and therefore +cannot be helped. Take care of my journal and papers after my +decease; and when you arrive in London, go immediately to my +agents, and send for my uncle, who will accompany you to the +Colonial office, and see you deposit them with the Secretary. After +my body is laid in the earth, apply to Bello, and borrow money to +purchase camels and provisions for crossing the desert to Fezzan in +the train of the Arab merchants. On your arrival at Mourzuk, should +your money be expended, send a messenger to Mr. Warrington, our +Consul for Tripoli, and wait till he returns with a remittance. On +your reaching the latter place, that gentleman will further advance +you what money you may require, and send you to England the first +opportunity. Do not lumber yourself with my books, but leave them +behind, as well as my barometer and sticks, and indeed every heavy +or cumbersome article you can conveniently part with; you may give +them to mallam Mudey, who will<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_72">[72]</span> preserve them. Remark whatever towns or +villages you may pass through, and put on paper any thing +remarkable that the chiefs of the different places may say to +you.”</p> + +<p>I said, as well as my agitation would permit me, “If it be the +will of God to take you, Sir, you may confidently rely, as far as +circumstances will permit me, on my faithfully performing all that +you have desired; but I hope and believe that the Almighty will yet +spare you to see your home and country again.”</p> + +<p>“I thought at one time,” continued he, “that that would be the +case, but I dare not entertain such hopes now; death is on me, and +I shall not be long for this world; God’s will be done.” He then +took my hand betwixt his, and looking me full in the face, while a +tear glistened in his eye, said in a tremulous, melancholy +tone:</p> + +<p>“My dear Richard, if you had not been with me I should have died +long ago. I can only thank you with my latest breath for your +devotedness and attachment to me; and if I could live to return to +England with you, you should<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_73">[73]</span> be placed beyond the reach of want; the +Almighty, however, will reward you.”</p> + +<p>This pathetic conversation, which occupied almost two hours, +greatly exhausted my master, and he fainted several times whilst +speaking. The same evening he fell into a slumber, from which he +awoke in much perturbation, and said that he had heard with +peculiar distinctness the tolling of an English funeral bell; but I +entreated him to be composed, observing that sick people frequently +fancy things which in reality can have no existence. He shook his +head, but said nothing.</p> + +<p>About six o’clock on the morning of the 11th April, on my asking +him how he did, my master replied in a cheerful tone, that he felt +much better; and requested to be shaved. He had not sufficient +strength to lift his head from the pillow; and after finishing one +side of the face I was obliged myself to turn his head in order to +get at the other. As soon as he was shaved, he desired me to fetch +him a looking-glass which hung on the opposite side of the hut; and +on seeing the reflection of his face in it, observed<span class= +"pagenum" id="Page_74">[74]</span> that he looked quite as ill in +Bornou on his former journey, and that as he had borne his disorder +for so long a time, there was some possibility of his yet +recovering. On the following day he still fancied himself to be +convalescent, in which belief I myself agreed, as he was enabled to +partake of a little hashed guinea fowl in the course of the +afternoon, which he had not done before during the whole of his +confinement, having derived his sole sustenance from a little fowl +soup and milk and water.</p> + +<p>These flattering anticipations, however, speedily vanished, for +on the morning of the 13th, being awake, I was greatly alarmed on +hearing a peculiar rattling noise issuing from my master’s throat, +and his breathing at the same time was loud and difficult. At that +moment, on his calling out “Richard!” in a low, hurried, and +singular tone, I was instantly at his side, and was astonished +beyond measure on beholding him sitting upright in his bed (not +having been able for a long time previously to move a limb), and +staring wildly around. Observing him ineffectually struggling to +raise himself on his<span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">[75]</span> +feet, I clasped him in my arms, and whilst I thus held him, could +feel his heart palpitating violently. His throes became every +moment less vehement, and at last they entirely ceased, insomuch +that thinking he had fallen into a slumber, or was overpowered by +fain tings, I placed his head gently on my left shoulder, gazing +for an instant, on his pale and altered features; some indistinct +expressions quivered on his lips, and whilst he vainly strove to +give them utterance, his heart ceased to vibrate, and his eyes +closed for ever!</p> + +<p>I held the lifeless body in my arms for a short period, +overwhelmed with grief; nor could I bring myself to believe that +the soul which had animated it with being, a few moments before, +had actually quitted it.</p> + +<p>I then unclasped my arms, and held the hand of my dear master in +mine; but it was cold and dead, and instead of returning the warmth +with which I used to press it, imparted some of its own unearthly +chillness to my frame, and fell heavily from my grasp. O God! what +was my distress in that agonizing moment? Shedding<span class= +"pagenum" id="Page_76">[76]</span> floods of tears, I flung myself +along the bed of death, and prayed that Heaven would in mercy take +my life!</p> + +<p class="tb">* * * *</p> + +<p>The violence of my grief having subsided, Pasko and Mudey, whom +my exclamations had brought into the apartment, fetched me water, +with which I washed the corpse, and with their assistance, carried +it outside the hut, laid it on a clean mat, and wrapped it in a +sheet and blanket. After leaving it in this state nearly two hours, +I put a large neat mat over the whole, and sent a messenger to make +Bello acquainted with the mournful event, as well as to obtain his +permission to have the body buried after the manner of my own +country; and also to learn in what particular place the Sultan +would wish to have it interred. The man soon returned with a +favourable answer to the former part of my request, and about +twelve o’clock on the morning of the same day, a person came into +the hut, accompanied by four slaves, to dig the grave; and wished +me to follow him with the corpse. Accordingly, saddling my +camel,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">[77]</span> the body was +placed on the animal’s back, and throwing a British flag over it, I +requested the men to proceed. Having passed through the dismal +streets of Soccatoo, we travelled almost unobservedly, at a solemn +pace, and halted near Jungavie, a small village, built on a rising +ground about five miles south-east of the city. The body was then +taken from the camel’s back, and placed in a shed, whilst the +slaves were employed in digging the grave. Their task being +speedily accomplished, the corpse was borne to the brink of the +pit, and I planted the flag close to it; then, uncovering my head, +and opening a prayer-book, amidst showers of tears, I read the +impressive funeral service of the Church of England over the +remains of my valued master—the English flag waving slowly and +mournfully over them at the same moment. Not a single soul listened +to this peculiarly distressing ceremony; for the slaves were +quarrelling with each other the whole of the time it lasted.</p> + +<p>This being done, the flag was taken away, and the body slowly +lowered into the earth; and I wept bitterly as I gazed, for a last +time, on all that remained of my intrepid and beloved +master.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">[78]</span> The grave was +quickly closed, and I returned to the village, about thirty yards +to the eastward of it, and giving the most respectable inhabitants +of both sexes a few trifling presents, entreated them to let no one +disturb the ashes of the dead; and also offered them a sum of money +to erect a shed over the spot, which having accepted, they promised +to do.</p> + +<div class="figcenter iw2"> +<figure id="i3"><a href="images/i3.jpg"><img src='images/i3.jpg' +alt="Funeral of Captain Clapperton" title= +"Funeral of Captain Clapperton"></a> +</figure> +</div> + +<p>Thus perished, and thus was buried, Captain Hugh Clapperton in +the prime of life, and in the strength and vigour of his manhood. +No one could be better qualified than he by a fearless, indomitable +spirit, and utter contempt of<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_79">[79]</span> danger and death, to undertake and carry into +execution an enterprise of so great importance and difficulty, as +the one with which he was entrusted. He had studied the African +character in all its phases—in its moral, social, and external +form; and like Alcibiades accommodated himself with equal ease to +good, as well to bad fortune—to prosperity, as well as to +adversity. He was never highly elated at the prospect of +accomplishing his darling wishes—the great object of his +ambition—nor deeply depressed when, environed by danger—care, +disappointment, and bodily suffering which hanging heavily upon +him, forbade him to indulge in hopeful anticipations. The negro +loved him, because he admired the simplicity of his manners, and +mingled with pleasure in his favourite dance; the Arab hated him, +because he was overawed by his commanding appearance, and because +the keen penetrating glance of the British Captain detected his +guilty thoughts, and made him quail with apprehension and fear.</p> + +<p>Captain Clapperton’s stature was tall; his disposition was warm +and benevolent; his temper mild, even, and cheerful; while his +ingenuous,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">[80]</span> manly +countenance, pourtrayed the generous emotions that reigned in his +breast. In fine, he united the figure and determination of a man, +with the gentleness and simplicity of a child; and, if I mistake +not, he will live in the memory of many thousands of Africans, +until they cease to breathe, as something more than mortal; nor +have I the least doubt that the period of his visiting their +country will be regarded by some as a new era, from which all +events of consequence, that affect them, will hereafter be +dated.</p> + +<p>The grave was dug on a naked piece of ground, with no remarkable +object near it to invite attention;—no mournful cypress or yew +weeps over the lonely spot—no sculptured marble shines above all +that remains of heroic enterprize and daring adventure! But the +sleeper needs no funereal emblem to perpetuate his name and +actions, having erected for himself a nobler and far more +imperishable mausoleum in the breasts of his countrymen and the +civilized world, than all the artists in the universe could rear +over his ashes.</p> + +<p>Returning, after the funeral, disconsolate and oppressed, to my +solitary habitation, I leaned<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_81">[81]</span> my head on my hands, and could not help being +deeply affected with my lonesome and dangerous situation. A hundred +and fifteen days’ journey from the sea-coast; surrounded by a +selfish and barbarous race of strangers;—my only friend and +protector, and last hope, mouldering in his grave, and myself +suffering dreadfully from fever: I felt as if I stood alone in the +world, and wished, ardently wished, I had been enjoying the same +deep, undisturbed, cold sleep as my master, and in the same grave. +All the trying evils I had encountered—all the afflictions I had +endured—all the bereavements I had experienced, never affected me +half so much as the bitter reflections of that distressing period. +After a sleepless night, I went alone to the grave, and found that +nothing had been done to it, nor did there seem to be the least +inclination on the part of the inhabitants of the village to redeem +their pledge. Knowing it would be useless to remonstrate with such +wretches, I hired two slaves in Soccatoo the next day, who went to +work immediately, and the shed over the grave was finished on the +15th.</p> + +<hr class="chap"> + +<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">[82]</span><a id= +"c12"></a>CHAPTER XII.</h2> + +<hr class="decor width5"> + +<p class="csum">The Author’s severe indisposition and distress of +mind — Conduct of Bello — Departure from Soccatoo — The Author +almost perishes of thirst in the “Goober Bush,” where he is +deserted by the faithless Pasko — The King of Jacoba — Horrid death +of that monarch’s slaves — The Author’s arrival at Kano.</p> + +<p><span class="sc">The</span> acute suffering, both in mind and +body, and the ceaseless agitation and excitement in which I had +been kept during the illness, and at the death and burial of my +master, occasioned my disorder to increase rapidly on me; and on +the 16th, being enabled with difficulty to crawl round the hut, I +was obliged to lay myself on my mat, from which I had not strength +to arise till the 27th; old Pasko, during that period, ministering +to all my wants. Whilst I was thus confined, the weather was so +dreadfully warm, that I was under the necessity of having a tub +of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">[83]</span> water at my side, +into which, at intervals, I used to plunge my hands and arms, +besides occasionally sprinkling my burning head and body. I had +abandoned every hope of recovery from the effects of my complaint, +and was prepared, in some measure, to undergo the last struggle, +when, on the 26th, I found my health suddenly improve in a manner +altogether as unexpected as strange; and on the following day I was +enabled to sit erect on my mat. In the course of that day (27th) +the Godado, mallam Mudey, and Side Sheikh abruptly entered my hut, +with a commission from the Sultan to search my boxes, that prince +having been informed, just before, that they were filled with gold +and silver; although his sole intention, I well knew, was that of +ascertaining what fire-arms were in my possession.</p> + +<p>Weak as I was, I remonstrated sharply with these ministers of +the king’s will, whilst they were prosecuting the search; but it +was of no avail—every thing was ransacked and turned +topsy-turvy.</p> + +<p>They expressed the greatest astonishment on<span class="pagenum" +id="Page_84">[84]</span> finding not even sufficient money to +defray my expenses to the sea coast; but, nevertheless, took an +inventory of the contents of the boxes, and carried it to their +sovereign. Foreseeing what would happen, I had taken the precaution +to secrete about my person the gold watch intended for the Sultan, +as well as the private watches of Captains Clapperton and Pearce. +The Godado and his coadjutor returned a short time afterwards, with +a command from their monarch to deliver up to them the following +articles, viz.—a rifle and a double-barrelled gun, two bags of +ball, a canister of powder, bag of flints, ream and half of paper, +and six gold (gilt) chains; for which he promised to pay me +whatever I might demand. I consequently charged him a quarter of a +million of cowries for the goods, which I was to receive, on +account of the Sultan, of Hat Sallah; and an order was given me to +receive that sum in Kano, and what more I might require in my +journey over the Desert.</p> + +<p>On the 28th I made Ben Gumso a present of four yards of blue, +and the same quantity of scarlet damask, an unwritten journal-book, +two<span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">[85]</span> pair of scissors +and two knives. With these articles, which to him were invaluable, +I endeavoured to get still further into the good graces of this old +Arab emir, who, by a singular piece of good fortune, had just begun +to exercise a powerful influence over the mind and actions of the +superstitious Sultan.</p> + +<p>After escaping from the death he was threatened with at Katunga, +which has already been related, this emir returned to Soccatoo; +and, like his cheating countrymen, procured a handsome livelihood +by writing charms, &c. &c. for the Falatahs. Ben Gumso +accompanied Bello in his engagement with the Towayahs, when that +monarch was pierced with a poisoned arrow. The Arab’s panacea was +resorted to on this occasion; and having written his charm on a +piece of wood, it was washed off, as usual, into a calabash of +water, and hastily swallowed by the prince. By some means the venom +never took effect, and the Sultan having recovered from his wound +in a few days, attributed the cure solely to Ben Gumso’s specific. +To display his gratitude for the good which had been +done<span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">[86]</span> him, Bello +admitted the fortunate charmer into his councils, and covered him +with honors and emoluments.</p> + +<p>This being the case, I conceived a trifling present would be +well timed; and therefore, after putting it into his hands, +entreated him to use his interest with his royal master, in order +to obtain his permission for my leaving Soccatoo, and making the +best of my way homewards. Accordingly, Ben Gumso represented to the +Sultan in lively colours the injustice, as well as impolicy, of +detaining any longer in his dominions a subject of the powerful +king of England; and advised him to hasten my departure as much as +he could, insinuating, that if I were to die in Soccatoo, a report +would be circulated and believed, that he had murdered both the +white men, by which he would most certainly acquire a bad +character.</p> + +<p>This artful reasoning overcame the scruples of the Falatah +prince, and word was sent me almost immediately, to appear before +him. Bello had the gravity of a Mohammedan about him on my +entrance, and putting on all the dignity<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_87">[87]</span> he could assume, looked like Pluto trying a +ghost for the sins it had committed on the earth. However, I did +not tremble in his august presence; and after a little preliminary +conversation, the Sultan asked me which route I should prefer in +order to reach my own country.</p> + +<p>Now, although my master had intimated his wish for me to proceed +with the Arabs to Fezzan, a few days only before his death, I much +feared that the papers, &c. entrusted to my care would be taken +from me, and myself murdered, by that wily and treacherous race, +whose behaviour to my master, after his arrival in Houssa was most +abominable. I therefore disliked them—hated them; and would rather +cast myself, unarmed and unprotected, upon the good faith of the +natives, than go in their train. Under these impressions and +prejudices, I answered the Sultan, that I wished to arrive in +England in as short a time as possible, and the route through +Boussa to Cubbé was most likely to accomplish that object. “It is +impossible,” angrily rejoined the prince, “to travel in that +direction; the rainy season is already set in; the rivers +are<span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">[88]</span> overflowed; the +low lands are under water; and how do you think to reach the +sea-coast in safety? It will be far better for you to go over the +desert, with the Arabs; and to facilitate your progress, I will +write to Hat Sallah to get a trustworthy person to accompany you; +he will also furnish you with camels and provisions, and pay you +the money I am indebted to you.” I simply replied, “Very well, +Sultan.” He then wished to know whether Captain Clapperton had +forgiven Pasko, <em>in his book</em>, for the robberies he had +committed; and on my answering that, owing to the illness of that +gentleman, he had been unable even to look into his Journal, the +monarch observed, that on Pasko’s arrival in England, my king would +undoubtedly behead him. I assured him, that if the man’s future +conduct proved to be good, not one of my countrymen would think of +punishing him; but this the Sultan was in no haste to believe, and +said, imperatively, “I cannot suffer him to accompany you; he must +stay here to <em>clean and repair my guns</em>!”—this latter +consideration evidently possessed greater weight with him than +Pasko’s<span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">[89]</span> safety, which +he cared nothing at all about. Not in the least daunted, I besought +Bello to permit him to accompany me as far as Kano, as interpreter; +to which he rather reluctantly consented, on condition that I +should procure him a horse to return, and pay him the sum of +150,000 cowries, which, of course, I agreed to; and seeing that the +Sultan had nothing more to say, I bowed profoundly, and retired. +This was my last interview with the Falatah sovereign, and I saw +him no more.</p> + +<p>On the evening of the 3d of May a person came with a message +from the Sultan, who said that a camel and some provisions would be +sent me in the course of the morning, and that I was to depart on +the next day. Neither camel nor provisions, however, were +delivered; and, rising early on the appointed morning, I bade a +last farewell to Soccatoo, a town in which I had suffered so +dreadfully; and, accompanied by a messenger from the kind old +Godado, and Pasko and Mudey, we proceeded with our camels and +horses to a large plain, five miles to the east of Magaria, where +we arrived in the afternoon; and rested<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_90">[90]</span> for the night under the wide-spreading +branches of a large tree growing on the margin of an insignificant +lake. Mosquitoes were in such numbers, and so troublesome, that we +could not sleep till morning, when a refreshing breeze springing +up, drove them away.</p> + +<p>At this flat we joined a party of above four thousand people, of +all ranks and of every nation; some going on a pilgrimage to Mecca; +some to the sea-coast to purchase goora-nuts; many Tuarick +salt-merchants returning to Kilgris; but all travelling in company +for mutual protection, and bending their way towards Kashna, where +merchants of every description meet, and disperse from thence to +their different destinations. An infinite number of camels, horses, +and bullocks, attended the party; and the king of Jacoba, with 50 +slaves, was also in their train. These poor creatures had been +driven from his kingdom by the above prince to Soccatoo, as a +present or tribute to Sultan Bello; but that monarch having learnt +the dreadful losses he had sustained in men and cattle, in +consequence of his war with Bornou,<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_91">[91]</span> and the number of villages which had been +plundered and burnt by the soldiers of the Sheikh, would not accept +of the slaves, but desired the king of Jacoba to re-conduct them +back to his own dominions.</p> + +<p>At eleven o’clock in the morning of the 4th of May a signal to +depart was made by a loud blast from a thousand horns, producing a +frightfully discordant noise; and in about an hour afterwards the +whole party was in motion. On entering the dreaded “Goober Bush,” a +wild and uncultivated tract of ground, covered with stunted trees, +we were obliged to redouble our pace in order to escape the fangs +of the merciless Towayahs. Boussa Jack (a horse so called from +having been made a present of by the king of Boussa) I rode myself, +on account of his swiftness and agility; but being unused to so +violent an exertion, the little animal became much fatigued, and +began to lag behind the others. The weather was at that time +intolerably hot; vegetation shrank before the piercing rays of the +sun, and the dust raised by the hoofs of the horses, &c. arose +in huge volumes in every<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_92">[92]</span> direction, entering my eyes, my mouth, my +nostrils, and penetrating even the pores of my skin. Not a breath +of air fanned the leaves of the trees; I was almost suffocated for +want of it, but snuffed up only sand and dust. The camels were far +a-head: I was faint and exhausted, and ordered Pasko to fly to them +for a drop of water. The horse would, or rather could, proceed no +further; I was obliged to dismount, and seat myself under a tree; +there, holding the bridle of the poor animal in my hand, I begged, +I prayed the thousands of Falatahs and Tuaricks that were passing, +for a mouthful of water to quench my parching thirst; but the +unfeeling, iron-hearted wretches mocked my misery, and scoffed at +my piteous entreaties, observing, one to another, “He is a Kafir; +let him die!”</p> + +<div class="figcenter iw2"> +<figure id="i4"><a href="images/i4_large.jpg"><img src= +'images/i4.jpg' alt="Fainting Scene" title="Fainting Scene"></a> +</figure> +</div> + +<p>This cruel disappointment almost choked me; I was so hoarse that +I could no longer be heard, and, falling flat on my back, let the +bridle slip from my fingers, and, covering my face with my hands, +tears came involuntarily into my eyes. At length a young Falatah, +from Foota Toora, accidentally seeing me lying along +the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">[93]</span> earth with a +horse standing listlessly by, came to the spot, and exclaimed, in a +tone of kindness, “Christian, Christian, why don’t you go on?” On +hearing him, I again sat up, and answered, “I am faint and sick for +want of water; no one will relieve me; and how can I go +on?”<span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">[94]</span> On hearing this, +the young man generously presented me with a small calabash full +(about a pint), part of which I drank, and with the remainder +washed the nostrils of Boussa Jack, and sprinkled a little into his +mouth. His countrymen, who observed the compassionate Falatah +performing this benevolent action, upbraided him in violent terms +for having given water to the Christian; but my amiable preserver, +showing them a double-barrelled gun, remarked that he had obtained +it of my countrymen, who were all good men, and would do no harm. +I, as well as the horse, was greatly refreshed with the small +quantity of water thus taken, but soon becoming again weak and +dispirited, I was nearly reduced to as bad a condition as before. A +few hours afterwards my legs were swollen so prodigiously, that my +boots split into fragments, and fell from my feet; and I +experienced the most acute pain in every part of my body. At length +I perceived Pasko, whom I had sent for water three or four hours +previously, comfortably seated with Muley the camel-driver, +under<span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">[95]</span> a tree,—my +provision basket lying open before him, a calabash of the purest +water gurgling down his throat, and him, with his sable companion, +thoughtlessly enjoying himself with a zest that almost distracted +me. I rode hastily up to the spot, and, pulling out a pistol, had +more than half an inclination to send the heartless old savage to +his long account, but suddenly checked myself. No! I could not take +away the life of a fellow-creature, even in the height of +excitement; and, replacing the pistol in my belt, I simply asked +the reason of his brutal treatment of me. The old fellow answered +with his usual demoniacal grin, and as composedly as if nothing was +the matter, “I was tired.”</p> + +<p>The young Falatah to whom I owe my life came to me on the 7th, +and informed me that the whole of the slaves of the King of Jacoba +being missing, a party of horsemen had been sent in quest of them, +and were just returned with the shocking intelligence of having +seen thirty-five of their dead bodies lying along the road; and +that hundreds of vultures were already hovering over them. The +other fifteen<span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">[96]</span> could +not be found; but were strongly suspected of having shared in the +same fate. These unfortunate creatures had the task of carrying +loads on their heads the day before, but, being unable to keep up +with the rapid pace of the camels, were necessarily obliged to be +left behind, and thus perished miserably of thirst and fatigue. I +congratulated myself on my own good fortune, in having so narrowly +escaped a fate so peculiarly frightful; and thanked the Almighty +with fervor and sincerity for having snatched me from the very jaws +of death. On his leaving me, I gave the Falatah a pair of scissors +and twenty gun-flints, as a small recompense for the eminent +service he had so cheerfully rendered me.</p> + +<p>On our road to Kano, the King of Jacoba became very sociable +with me, and was my constant companion. After pressing me to visit +his kingdom, in which he asserted he would make my stay agreeable, +he told me that the Yam Yams, who inhabit the mountains contiguous +to Jacoba, were anthropophagi, in which assertion he was borne out +by two Yam Yams, who were slaves in Kano when I was in that city. +The<span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">[97]</span> Prince said +further, that people of the same nation, who had assisted him in +his war with Bornou, were surrounded, with some of his own troops, +on a plain near Jacoba, by the Sheikh’s soldiers, and the carnage +on both sides was dreadful. The fight lasted a whole day, when, in +the evening, the Jacobeans, with their ferocious allies, were +entirely routed, and the King himself, who commanded them, very +narrowly escaped being taken prisoner. On the following morning the +discomfited Yam Yams repaired to the field of battle, and bearing +off a great number of dead bodies, roasted them before large fires, +kindled for the purpose, and devoured them without yams, corn, or, +indeed, any other provisions!</p> + +<p>Soon after our arrival at Markee, on the 19th, a spouse of the +chief, a finely-formed and intelligent-looking young woman, came to +me with tears in her eyes, and implored me to give her some +<em>magonie</em> [medicine], as she had no child. I accordingly +presented her with a couple of tea-spoonfuls of oil of cinnamon, +and ordered her, with a suitable caution, to put two<span class= +"pagenum" id="Page_98">[98]</span> drops of the liquor into a pint +of cow’s milk, which was to be swallowed three times a day till the +whole was consumed; observing that, on my return to Markee, I had +not the least doubt of seeing her the happy mother of a numerous +progeny!</p> + +<p>The husband was no sooner acquainted with the circumstance than +he came and thanked me in the heartiest manner for the good I had +done, gave me abundance of fresh milk, fowls, rice, &c. and +told me at the same time that on my return from England, he would +reward me with a large sum of money, which I dare say he will do. +When I bade the happy couple adieu next morning, they squeezed my +hand affectionately, and said, “Christian! God send you safely to +your country, and may you speedily come back to Markee!”</p> + +<p>I arrived at Kano on the 25th of May, and instantly delivered +Bello’s letter and orders to Hadje Hat Sallah; but the Arab, after +perusing them, declared at first that he would have nothing to do +with me. He had nearly lost his head, he said, on Captain +Clapperton’s account on a previous occasion, and positively refused +to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">[99]</span> <em>lend</em> me a +single cowry. “I have no objection,” he continued, “to let you +have, in goods and a slave, the amount of your demand on the +sultan, but I shall certainly do no more.” I accordingly received +from Hat Sallah a strong female slave, and a quantity of unwrought +silk, and scarlet caps, beads to sell on my journey. My weakened +and diseased camels, which would be of no service to me, I parted +with, and dismissed their keeper, Maddie.</p> + +<hr class="chap"> + +<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_100">[100]</span><a id= +"c13"></a>CHAPTER XIII.</h2> + +<hr class="decor width5"> + +<p class="csum">Pasko — The Author pays his respects to the +Governor, and leaves Kano — Chooses, near Bebajie, the road to +Fundah — Almena mountain — The Author is seen and recognized by +horsemen from Zeg Zeg — Arrives amongst the people of Bowchee — +Their manners — A girl’s lamentation on being sold by her mother — +The Author enters the immense plain of Cuttup — Anecdote of an old +woman.</p> + +<p><span class="sc">Not</span> having sufficient money at my +disposal to purchase fresh camels, or provisions and presents for +the different chiefs of towns on the road to Fezzan, I was +necessitated to take a different route, which I was not at all +sorry for; and for that purpose purchased a horse and two asses. +Bello had not forgotten to desire Hat Sallah, in his letter to him, +to send back Pasko to Soccatoo the day after my arrival at Kano, +and procure me a substitute. I begged of him, however, to suffer +the Haussan to accompany me to<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_101">[101]</span> Coulfo in Nyffé, and promised to have him +conveyed back to Kano on my arrival there. He at first refused to +accede to my wishes, but the temptation of a present, the best +argument in the world in such cases, made the old Arab smile an +assent to my proposition; and calling Pasko into his presence, he +gave him permission to attend me to Coulfo, but enjoined him to +return the moment he had entered that city, on pain of having +<em>Jerrub</em> (the Devil) sent after him. The old offender, who +could be moved by nothing else, at the bare sound of +<em>Jerrub</em> was flung into a violent fever, and hastened to me +in great trepidation shortly after, every member of his body +trembling like an aspen-leaf. After giving me to understand, as +well as his agitation would allow him to do, the conversation he +had had with Hat Sallah, and in consequence thereof his reluctance +to quit Kano with me, I endeavoured to deride him out of his +superstitious prejudices; but they had taken so firm a grasp on his +mind that all my exertions were ineffectual; and he still +persevered in his resolution of remaining behind. Knowing Pasko’s +tender regard<span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">[102]</span> for +the softer sex, however, I made this a means of accomplishing my +object. I had consented he should take the slave that Hat Sallah +had sold me, to wife, for he had forgotten the lovely Mattah, of +tuah celebrity, and felt great loneliness in the absence of female +converse; I therefore assured him that unless he would consent to +accompany me, a separation should instantly take place. The event +showed that I had touched the right chord; on hearing my decision, +he trembled more violently than ever, and while rivers of tears +flowed down his furrowed cheeks, exclaimed, in a tone of agony that +rendered his expression almost inarticulate, “O, don’t—I—will—go.” +This weighty point being decided, I made the necessary preparations +for my departure.</p> + +<p>On the 29th, Hat Sallah hinted that it would be well for me to +pay a visit to the governor of Kano, who was at Faniso. I agreed +with the Arab in opinion, and waited on his Excellency in the +course of the morning, who, on my leaving him, said, “When you +return to your<span class="pagenum" id="Page_103">[103]</span> +country, Christian, give the Falatahs a good name.”</p> + +<p>In the afternoon we left Kano, and travelling at a rapid rate, +halted on the banks of the Kogie, four hours’ journey from that +place, but the river being much swollen, we did not dare to cross +it. To our infinite disappointment I found that the tent poles had +been left behind, and was therefore obliged to send back one of the +servants to fetch them, giving him a sword in proof that he was +despatched by me. The scoundrel, however, never returned; and it +being necessary for us to rest on the margin of the stream that +night, I slung the tent to the branch of a tree, and fastened the +lower part of it to the earth. In the evening the rain poured down +in torrents, accompanied by awful and tremendous thunder, so that +in the night, our tent being completely drenched, the bough to +which it was appended broke with its increasing weight; and falling +on us as we were reposing on our mats, we found it impossible to +sleep, and were obliged to remain in that miserable plight till the +next morning.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_104">[104]</span>We arose at an +early hour, and as soon as things were put in some kind of order, I +sent Pasko to Kano, to endeavour to apprehend the fellow that had +absconded with my sword, for I fancied that one rogue was better +qualified to detect another, than an honest man: but the man not +having been seen in the city, Pasko was unsuccessful in his search, +and returned, very much down in the mouth, bringing with him the +tent-poles. The river Kogie by that time was become fordable; but, +in consequence of the strength and rapidity of its current, we +crossed with extreme difficulty. No sooner was this object +effected, and before we had time to clothe ourselves, than four +armed slaves from Soccatoo hastened up to us, and demanded the four +thousand cowries, which, it will be recollected Pasko had borrowed +of Ben Gumso, to defray the expenses of his marriage with the +accomplished, but hard-handed, Mattah Gewow. Pasko protested that +he had left property in Soccatoo to the value of fifty thousand +cowries, out of which Ben Gumso might satisfy himself. This answer +by no means pleased the myrmidons of the illustrious +Arab<span class="pagenum" id="Page_105">[105]</span> emir, who, for +the sake of little more than a shilling of English money, had +despatched four men to the distance of between two and three +hundred miles to arrest the debtor; and they were about to take the +affectionate lover away by force, when I thought it time to +interfere, and paid them the money they demanded. The armed +scoundrels then went their way, taking with them the whole of +Pasko’s wearing apparel, which he had left on the opposite side of +the stream; so that the every-way unfortunate man was obliged to +have a rough mat tied to his waist, till I could procure him a more +becoming garment. This little matter being adjusted, to the +complete satisfaction of the husband of Mattah, we slept on the +borders of the stream for the night, and pursued our journey on the +morning of the next day. At two o’clock we arrived at a small +walled town called Madubie, in which I erected my tent; and in the +evening the chief’s daughter visited me with milk, and a huge bowl +of beef and tuah, sufficient for the whole of us for supper.</p> + +<p>The weather had been violent during the<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_106">[106]</span> night, but clearing up early on the 1st of +June, we dried the tent, and journeyed onwards till we arrived at +the Gora, a narrow, but deep and rapid river. As on the former +occasion, the men experienced considerable difficulty in attaining +the opposite side, and I was greatly afraid they would be washed +away and drowned by the swiftness with which the water rolled on; +but, happily, after a world of exertion, they crossed in safety, +and at one at noon, passing near the walled town of Bebajie, I +desired them to proceed a-head. I myself followed alone at some +distance, for I dreaded being seen by any of the straggling +inhabitants, who, if they happened to recognize my features, would +infallibly detain me amongst them. In half an hour we came to two +other roads, the one leading to Nyffé, and the other to the +far-famed Fundah.</p> + +<p>When Capt. Clapperton found himself dying in Soccatoo, he +intimated to me that if I attempted to return through Nyffé and +Yariba, the inhabitants of one of those countries, who must have +heard of our having taken presents to their common adversary, would +undoubtedly<span class="pagenum" id="Page_107">[107]</span> put me +to death; and this was the reason he wished to impress so strongly +upon me the necessity of my accompanying the Arabs over the desert. +I paused for an instant, as I looked on each of the said roads; +but, feeling an earnest desire, which I could not repress, to visit +Fundah, on the banks of the Niger, and trace that much-talked of +river in a canoe to Benin; and, perhaps, fearing that my departed +master’s observation was well-grounded, I did not hesitate a great +while, but travelled on the latter road.</p> + +<p>About six in the evening we erected our tent near to Koofa, a +small walled town, in which I was fortunate enough to obtain a +little sleep for the first time since leaving Kano. The town is +situated at the base of an immense rock, on which there is not the +slightest trace of vegetation; and, although extremely populous, is +no more than two miles in circumference. To the eastward of it is a +range of high hills, stretching from north to south as far as the +eye can reach; and their slopes being green and luxuriant, they +wore a delightful appearance.</p> + +<p>On the three following days, we crossed several<span class= +"pagenum" id="Page_108">[108]</span> rapid streams, and passed +through many insignificant walled towns. The country traversed on +those days, although level, was picturesque and beautiful; and all +nature was covered with a lively verdure.</p> + +<p>On the 4th of June we came to the foot of a high and craggy +mountain, called Almena, rising abruptly from the plains. It +consists of gigantic blocks of granite, fearfully piled on each +other, and at a distance resembled the rocks in the vicinity of the +celebrated logan-stone, in Cornwall. Mohammed, an intelligent +mussulman, who was acquainted with the traditions of the whole +country, seating himself on a mass of rock, gave me the following +story:—</p> + +<p>“About five hundred years ago, a queen of the Fantee nation, +having quarrelled with her husband about a golden stool, fled with +it from her dominions, followed by a great number of her subjects; +and built a considerable town at the foot of this mountain, which +she called Almena. Her irritated husband pursued the queen with an +army; but, losing a great part of his men from sickness and other +causes, adopted<span class="pagenum" id="Page_109">[109]</span> the +language of a suppliant instead of the bearing of the general of an +army, and prayed to be admitted into the town, and live in peace +with his ambitious spouse. His petition was granted, and the +newly-built town flourished under their joint government till about +ten or twelve years afterwards, when the natives of the country +rose against them, and putting the principal inhabitants, with +their sovereign, to death, took the remainder into slavery, and +levelled the ill-fated Almena with the dust.”</p> + +<p>The town, of whatever kind it might have been, was formerly +surrounded by a wall, the ruins of which are yet visible.</p> + +<p>We halted at another walled town, called Gatas, in the +afternoon, where I accidentally met with some Kano merchants from +Cuttup. The inhabitants, discovering by some means that I was a +Christian, came in crowds to see me; but behaved in an orderly and +respectful manner. I invited the most respectable females into my +tent, which they all greatly admired, and in return for this +civility shortly afterwards presented me with milk and +<em>foorah</em>. The inhabitants<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_110">[110]</span> of Gatas, as well as those of every other +town I had passed through since leaving Kano, are natives of +Houssa, and tributary to the Falatahs.</p> + +<p>We halted at the outside of Damoy on the 5th, the inhabitants of +which informed me that the range of hills I have already mentioned +as extending to the verge of the horizon, are inhabited by the +terrible Yam Yams, whom they all declared to be confirmed +cannibals. That singular people formerly carried on an extensive +traffic with the natives of the surrounding country in elephants’ +teeth, which they exchanged for red cloth, beads, &c.; but +having about five years before assassinated and eaten a gaffle of +merchants, all communication had, from that period, been cut off, +between the savage mountaineers and their timid neighbours of the +plains.</p> + +<p>We arrived at Nammaleek on the 7th: the town is defended by a +mountain nearly perpendicular, and thickly covered with wood. +Thousands of hyænas, tiger-cats, jackalls, monkeys, &c. which +exist on the latter, kept so terrific a noise during the night, +that although much fatigued,<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_111">[111]</span> I could not close my eyes. These animals +are so bold and rapacious, that the poor inhabitants of Nammaleek +cannot preserve a single bullock, sheep, or goat; in consequence of +which no animal food was to be had in the town. The chief put us +into a hut, and presented us with tuah, which being most +unpalatable stuff, by reason of a little sauce, prepared from the +juice of the monkey’s bread-fruit tree, which had been mixed with +it, I could not taste a mouthful.</p> + +<p>I intended to have remained in the place for a few hours on the +following day, in order to take medicine; for, having a slight +fever on me, I felt extremely unwell; but the curiosity of the +people not permitting me to embrace an opportunity of opening my +medicine-chest, excepting in their presence, I felt no inclination +to try the experiment. In the course of the day (7th) two +messengers unluckily recognized me, and asked whither I was +journeying. On my acquainting them, the horsemen instantly rode +off, and, as I subsequently learnt, returned to Zaria, and informed +the King of Zeg Zeg that the<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_112">[112]</span> Christian was on his way to Fundah, with +two asses, loaded with riches, and a beautiful horse, as presents +to the monarch of that kingdom.</p> + +<p>Leaving Nammaleek on the 8th, and keeping in a south-westerly +direction, at the base of a range of mountains, we observed an +opening through them, and rode to the opposite side. Our course +then lay more easterly; and, having crossed one large and three +small rivers, whose names I could not learn, we arrived at +Fullindushie, the frontier town in Catica, or Bowchee, in the +afternoon. On our journey we met, on their way to Soccatoo, as a +tax paid to Sultan Bello from a neighbouring country, thirty +slaves, men, women, and children, who were all ill with the small +pox. The males were tied to each other by the neck, with thongs +made of twisted bullock’s hide; but the women and children were +unconfined: notwithstanding the loathsome disease that hung upon +these poor wretches, they all appeared merry, thoughtless, and +happy, as though they had been enjoying their freedom in perfect +health.</p> + +<p>The inhabitants of Fullindushie were the first people in Africa +I had seen that disdained to<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_113">[113]</span> confine their well-proportioned limbs in +any kind of dress; they went perfectly naked, and laughed +immoderately on seeing me; whilst I, on my part, made myself +equally merry at the singularity of their appearance. Their sable +locks were bedecked with huge lumps of red clay and grease—their +bodies shone with a clammy unction, any thing but agreeable to the +eye, or pleasant to the smell—a massy piece of blue glass hung from +a hole in the upper lip—and from the lobe of the ear dangled a +misshapen fragment of red wood, about the largeness of a man’s +thumb.</p> + +<p>Their features do not resemble, in the slightest degree, those +of the Negro, but are fine, regular and handsome, bearing a +striking similitude to the European, such as impressed me at first +sight;—yet, with all these pretensions to superiority over their +jetty neighbours in personal appearance, they yield to them in +cleanliness and decency; for, although an artless, good-tempered, +social race, the Bowchee people are filthy in their habits, and +disgusting in their manners; their sheep, goats, and poultry +eat<span class="pagenum" id="Page_114">[114]</span> and sleep in +the same room with them, and a most intolerable odour is exhaled +from all their dwellings. When the females of Catica go to market, +they wear a twig tied to the middle, and hanging down in front. +Nothing can be more graceful or <em>picturesque</em> than a troop +of these modest damsels proceeding to market bedizened in this +manner; and I could hardly tell what to make of a body of about a +hundred of them which met me near La Zumee. The Bowchee people +appear to have no affection for their offspring—the gentle appeals +of nature are unknown to them—parental tenderness dwells not in +their bosoms; and they sell their children as slaves to the +greatest strangers in the world, with no greater remorse of +conscience than if they had been common articles of merchandize. As +a proof of this strange and unnatural apathy on the part of a +mother towards her child, the following touching scene took place +at Fullindushie whilst I was in the town:—</p> + +<p>A travelling slave-dealer passing through the place, had +purchased several of their children, of both sexes, from the +inhabitants; and amongst<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_115">[115]</span> others, a middle-aged woman had an only +daughter, whom she parted with for a necklace of beads. The unhappy +girl, who might have been about thirteen or fourteen years of age, +on being dragged away from the threshold of her parents’ hut, clung +distractedly, like a shipwrecked mariner to a floating mast, round +the knees of her unfeeling mother, and looking up wistfully in her +countenance, burst into a flood of tears, exclaiming with vehemence +and passion:—“O mother! do not sell me; what will become of me? +what will become of yourself in your old age, if you suffer me to +desert you? Who will fetch you corn and milk? Who will pity you +when you die? Have I been unkind to you? O, mother! do not sell +your only daughter. I will take you in my arms when you are feeble, +and carry you under the shade of trees. As a hen watches over her +chicken, so will I watch over you, my dear mother. I will repay the +kindness you showed me in my infant years. When you are weary, I +will fan you to sleep; and whilst you are sleeping, I will drive +away flies from you. I will attend on you<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_116">[116]</span> when you are in pain; and when you die I +will shed rivers of sorrow over your grave. O mother! my dear +mother! do not push me away from you; do not sell your only +daughter to be the slave of a stranger!”—Useless tears! vain +remonstrance! The unnatural, relentless parent, shaking the beads +in the face of her only child, thrust her from her embraces; and +the slave-dealer drove the agonized girl from the place of her +nativity, which she was to behold no more.</p> + +<p>Quitting Fullindushie, the day after our arrival, in the course +of the afternoon, we halted at La Zumee, a small town with a good +population. On entering it I observed two men, sitting under a +date-tree, to which I instantly walked up, and accosted the one, +whom, being neatly dressed, I conceived to be the chief; but was +surprised to find that the person I addressed was a Kano merchant; +and the individual by his side, a dirty contemptible old fellow, +dressed in a filthy sheep skin, I was obliged to pay my respects to +as the chief of La Zumee. Having pointed out an empty hut for my +use, he disappeared,<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_117">[117]</span> but returned in two hours after with an +apology for not sending me provisions, saying that his wives were +at work in his gardens; and on their leaving them he would remember +me. Accordingly about three hours after the chief had left me, the +industrious ladies brought me a couple of fowls, and tuah and rice, +for which I gave them a pair of scissors and fifty needles; the +latter articles, like cowries, being the circulating medium of the +country. Surrounding the town is a remarkably broad and deep ditch, +on the outside of which the country is well cultivated, and the +soil appears to be rich and highly productive. On the 10th we slept +at Coorokoo, a small walled town, and on the following day pitched +our tent on the banks of a large river called Coodoonia, (flowing +swiftly to the north-west, and entering, it is said, the Niger near +Fundah,) where we lay without food till the next day.</p> + +<p>Arising at an early hour in the morning, we succeeded in +crossing the water, which reached to our chins, and immediately +proceeded towards <em>Cuttup</em>, where we arrived after three +hours travelling.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_118">[118]</span> +Having heard on my route from Kano, so many different accounts of +Cuttup, its wealth, population, and celebrated market, I was +surprised and disappointed on finding it to consist of nearly five +hundred small villages or hamlets, almost adjoining each other; for +I had been given to understand, in the hyperbolical relations of +the natives, that it was a magnificent and powerful city, the +wealth and prosperity of its inhabitants rendering it of more +importance than any other in the interior. The villages occupy an +immense and beautiful plain, embellished with a variety of elegant +trees, amongst which I observed, for the first time since I had +left Yariba, the plantain, the palm, and the cocoa trees, all +flourishing in vernal luxuriance. The sun shone brightly upon the +numerous rural hamlets as I passed through them; the oxen and cows +were chewing the cud in front of the tidy looking habitations; +flocks of sheep bleated from the inclosures; fowls were clucking in +the lanes; small birds were careering in the sky;—all bore an air +of peace, loveliness,<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_119">[119]</span> simplicity, and comfort, that delighted and +charmed me.</p> + +<p>A considerable traffic is carried on at Cuttup, in slaves and +horned cattle; the latter of which are bred by the Falatahs, (great +numbers of whom reside there for no other purpose,) who sell or +exchange them to the natives. Slaves, as well as bullocks and +sheep, are exposed in the market, which is held daily; and also red +caps, country cloth, gum, salt, goora nuts, trona, beads, tobacco, +rings, needles, cutlery articles; and honey, rice, milk, &c. +People from the most remote parts resort to the market in vast +numbers, to purchase these various articles of merchandize; and +return with them to their respective countries. The chief or sultan +as he is called, being a <em>very</em> great man, I thought it +would not be amiss to give him a present worthy his dignity and +exalted station, and accordingly took him eight yards of blue and +scarlet damask, prints of my own gracious sovereign and the late +duke of York, with several articles of minor value, in return for +which I received a sheep,<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_120">[120]</span> the humps of two bullocks, and stewed rice +sufficient to satisfy the appetites of at least fifty hungry men. I +was honoured by a visit from ten of the king’s wives two days after +my arrival, who expressing the most rapturous delight on observing +the gilt buttons on my jacket, I cut them off, and presented them +to their sable majesties, who accepted them with a loud laugh of +thankfulness, and sticking them in their ears, bade me farewell, +and danced away.</p> + +<p>Unlike the princes of Houssa, Nyffé, Borghoo, &c. the king +of Cuttup gives his wives unrestricted liberty, which they are +never known to abuse; but in other respects they are treated in +much the same manner as the women of those sovereigns. During my +stay in Cuttup I was never in want of a bullock’s hump, (by far the +most delicate part of the animal, and frequently weighing from +twelve to fifteen pounds,) the king invariably receiving as a +tribute from the butchers, the hump of every bullock they +slaughter; and one of these delicious oily excrescences was brought +me daily by a person purposely despatched from the <em>queens</em>. +Being<span class="pagenum" id="Page_121">[121]</span> much in want +of money, I ordered it to be published in the market-place that I +had needles and beads for sale, which brought a number of +individuals into my hut, who purchased freely, giving at least +eighty per cent more for my property than for the needles of the +Arabs; but whether the buyers actually fancied mine were of more +excellent quality than those they had been in the habit of using, +or whether it arose from a spirit of curiosity to preserve +something belonging to so rare a creature as “the white man,” I was +at a loss to conjecture.</p> + +<p>An old woman came to me one afternoon, sobbing aloud and full of +grief; telling me in a tone of peculiar dolefulness, that all her +little savings, the accumulation of years of industry and +frugality, had been stolen from a hole in her hut, in which she had +concealed it a short time before, by some of her dishonest +neighbours; and entreating me to favour her with a charm that would +effectually prevent a recurrence of so ignominious an action in +future. Being ever willing to oblige the simple-hearted Africans, +and knowing also the profound veneration<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_122">[122]</span> in which a charm of mine would be held by +all ranks, I gave the poor woman a teaspoonful of common sweet oil, +and urged her to pour it on the money she intended hiding, stating, +that if any person should dare to touch it without her permission, +he would instantly be punished with suffering and death. I likewise +desired her to give the virtues of the charm as extensive a +circulation as possible amongst her acquaintances, who would be so +awed by the terrible denunciation threatened by the charmer, that +fear itself would deter them from exercising their pilfering +propensities on her property. The countenance of the venerable +matron brightened up at these expressions; and substituting tears +of gratitude and pleasure for those of disappointment and sorrow, +she fell on her knees before me, embraced my feet, and looking up +with a mingled expression of <em>naïveté</em> and maternal +tenderness, poured out a full tide of thanks and blessings on her +protector, as she called me, which made me blush for the deception +I had practised; but I was consoled with the reflection, that in +consequence of the invincible<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_123">[123]</span> superstition—the ignorance—the +unconquerable prejudices of the people, and the fear in which I was +held, the very object aimed at by me, would in all probability be +fully accomplished.</p> + +<p>On the 16th I paid my respects to the King of Cuttup and his +amiable, laughter-loving consorts; and then pursuing my journey to +Fundah in a more cheerful mood than I had felt for a long time, +arrived at a small town called Coogie, in the middle of the +afternoon. The journey, however, was not of the most agreeable +description; the road at one moment winding over a sharp, rugged +precipice, and in the next through pools of water and deceitful +hollows; we were oftentimes up to the neck in filth and wet; to add +to which, flies were innumerable, and so troublesome to the asses +by their mischievous propensity to bite and sting, that the +irritated animals, flinging off their riders in the mire, and +playing all manner of wanton pranks, detained us a considerable +time in the course of the forenoon.</p> + +<p>The next day our journey was not a whit<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_124">[124]</span> more pleasant or comfortable. The rain fell +in torrents, and the water, roaring down the sides of the +mountains, rolled in one mighty stream, with inconceivable +impetuosity through the vallies, and carried every thing in its +progress. This continued for hours, when the thick clouds +dispersing, the sun broke forth in all his majesty, and the +tumultuous elements were lulled into peace. We crossed a stream, or +river, called Rary, in the course of the day, and slept at +Dungoora, a small town, in which we found ourselves very hungry, +but could get nothing at all to eat.</p> + +<p>We pursued our course on the 18th, and arrived at Dunrora, a +paltry town, containing four thousand inhabitants, by six o’clock +in the evening. Our route, for some part of the journey, lay over +steep and craggy precipices, on the summit of one of which the +horse that carried the portmanteaus struck himself against a sharp +piece of rock jutting up out of the narrow foot path, and was +precipitated a distance of eighty yards, the ropes which were +fastened to the portmanteaus arresting his further progress. +I<span class="pagenum" id="Page_125">[125]</span> was filled with +alarm on observing the helpless little animal tumbling head over +heels down the frightful declivity, and expected at least that he +would have been dashed to pieces before reaching the bottom; but, +some stunted trees luckily growing on the side of the precipice, he +became entangled in the manner which has just been related. We had +been travelling about half an hour, after leaving the spot on which +the accident occurred, when reaching a yet more elevated situation, +an extensive and delightful prospect suddenly burst on our view; +and several days’ journey might plainly be seen before us.</p> + +<p>I halted for a moment to gaze upon the fine and noble scene +around me, which rivalled in magnificence and beauty the appearance +of the landscape from the Kong mountains. About half a day’s +journey to the east stood a lofty hill, at the foot of which lay +the large city of Jacoba, the metropolis of a kingdom of the same +name, to which, it will be recollected, I was invited a short time +before, by its monarch; but not having felt any inclination to +depart a step<span class="pagenum" id="Page_126">[126]</span> out +of the direct road, had declined embracing the offer. Mahomet, my +servant, declared that a river, called Shar, or Sharra, deriving +its source from the lake Tschad, flows about half a mile from +Jacoba; and that canoes can be paddled from the said lake to the +Niger at any season of the year. The Sharra enters the latter river +at Fundah, when, in conjunction with its sister streams, after +laving its banks before the towns of Cuttum Currifee, Gattoo, and +Jibboo, it joins the salt water; but at what particular place, my +informant was ignorant, never having heard the word “Benin” till I +mentioned it myself. Fundah lies due west of Dunrora.</p> + +<p>Not being aware that the chief of Dunrora was so <em>very</em> +eminent a character, my present to him was of a trifling nature, +consisting only of a pair of scissors and a few needles, which were +returned to me shortly afterwards, with a contemptuous message, +importing that I would be pleased to bestow it on a less exalted +individual, or send something of greater value. On demanding the +reason of such strange conduct from the people<span class="pagenum" +id="Page_127">[127]</span> who surrounded me, they answered that I +had insulted the dignity of themselves and their chief by offering +so insignificant a gift, he being a mighty man; but feeling no +disposition to add any thing to it, I dismissed the messenger +empty-handed to his <em>mighty</em> master.</p> + +<hr class="chap"> + +<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_128">[128]</span><a id= +"c14"></a>CHAPTER XIV.</h2> + +<hr class="decor width5"> + +<p class="csum">The Author overtaken at Dunrora by four armed +horsemen from Zeg Zeg, who force him to accompany them back to +Zaria — His reflections — Arrives in Zaria — Treatment of the King +and his son towards the Author — His entrance into Coulfo in Nyffé +— Revisits Wow Wow — The noted widow Zuma.</p> + +<p><span class="sc">As</span> I was loading my beasts to depart on +the morning of the 19th, I observed four armed men ride up at full +gallop to the residence of the chief of Dunrora, whose horses were +covered with foam. The great man was no sooner made acquainted with +the nature of their errand, than he came hastily to me, followed by +a multitude of people, and told me that I must instantly return +with the horsemen to Zaria, the king of Zeg Zeg having despatched +them purposely to escort me to that city. I was +amazed—thunderstruck. It was in vain to remonstrate with +a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_129">[129]</span> chief whom I had +unwittingly offended: “If I suffer you to proceed on your journey +to Fundah,” said he, “I shall lose my head; you must submit.” +Entreaty, cajolery, and persuasion, were alike useless; the orders +of the armed men were imperative; they were backed by a thousand +bows and arrows; and with a heavy heart and cruel reflections, I +turned the head of my horse towards Cuttup.</p> + +<p>Thus was I obliged, after seventeen days’ perilous travelling +from Kano, with a fair prospect of reaching the celebrated Fundah +in twelve or thirteen more, from whence four days’ sail would bring +me to the salt water—a new country opening before me, and my mind +filled with the most lively anticipations of solving the +geographical problem, as to whether the Niger actually joins the +sea in that direction;—thus was I obliged to abandon my fondest and +long-cherished expectations, and return to Zeg Zeg; thence to be +transported the Lord knew whither! I felt depressed and miserable +at this sudden and unexpected change in my<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_130">[130]</span> affairs; and was really indifferent as to +my future proceedings; caring not whether I lived or died.</p> + +<p>On our arrival in Cuttup, I was attacked with dysentery, and, +much against the inclination of my escort, obliged to remain there +four days, suffering during that period, and indeed a long while +afterwards, more dreadfully than I can or will describe. Finding me +very tractable, and too ill to make the least exertion, the +horsemen left me in Cuttup, and in their stead substituted two +homely, peaceable men, who proceeded with me in a different +direction, towards Zeg Zeg.</p> + +<p>The following day the asses were excessively troublesome through +the attacks of forest flies, myriads of which swarm around and +alight in great numbers on men and beasts. These insects bit the +asses so severely that blood streamed copiously from their sides, +and the animals at length became so restive, that Pasko and +Mohammed, who rode on them, were frequently thrown to the ground; +besides which the loads on their backs were seriously damaged by +reason of the asses rolling themselves in the earth, and rubbing +their backs against the trunks of<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_131">[131]</span> trees. We slept in our tent in the midst of +a large wood, surrounded by vast numbers of bamboo, palm, and cocoa +trees; and, although very ill, I found myself considerably +stronger.</p> + +<p>At Cokalo, a Bowchee village, where we arrived on the 27th, the +inhabitants were so poor, that they sent us nothing but corn; but +the chief, in honor of our arrival, made a fetish, and having +roasted a fatted dog, stewed a snake in oil and water, and boiled a +quantity of corn. He then invited his people to a feast; and they +partook of the good things set before them with peculiar relish. +With a benevolence truly amiable, a small bowl of the corn so +prepared, enriched with a portion of the reptile, and the liquid in +which it had been dressed, was brought me from the chief’s table; +and, supposing it to be fish swimming in oil, I ate a mouthful or +two with a very good appetite. It had, however, a peculiar, +although certainly not a disagreeable flavour with it, and I +carelessly asked a person standing near, the name of the animal I +was eating; but on his assuring me that it was part of a +<em>land</em> fish, my appetite forsook me, and Pasko, +who<span class="pagenum" id="Page_132">[132]</span> had been +casting many a longing eye on the delicate morsel, devoured the +remainder with looks of infinite delight, asserting that it +equalled in goodness the best dried ling he had ever tasted.</p> + +<p>On the following morning we arrived on the banks of the river +Coodoonia; but there it was broader, deeper, and more rapid than at +Cuttup, insomuch that it was dangerous to cross it. In attempting +to convey, on a small bamboo raft, one of the portmanteaus to the +opposite side of the stream, I found that it would not bear its +weight, and I snatched it from the sinking frame, a few feet only +from the margin of the water. Being convinced, therefore, that it +would be dangerous to cross till the river became shallower, I +strenuously objected to the wishes of my guard, (who almost dragged +me into it,) and insisted that I would risk neither my person nor +property on so fragile and dangerous a conveyance as the one at the +ferry. The men, finding me resolute in my determination, poured out +a volley of abuse, and threatened in insolent terms to go +immediately and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_133">[133]</span> +inform their sovereign of my refusal to accompany them. I desired +the fellows to give my best respects to his majesty, and said that +they were at liberty to go as soon as they pleased; and they left +me in great anger, cursing me as they went, whilst I slowly +returned with my horses and asses to the village we had left an +hour before.</p> + +<p>Whether the messengers did or did not go to their king, I cannot +tell, but they did not come back till nearly a fortnight +afterwards; and during that time I was ill in the village, with +nothing to eat but boiled Indian corn; for I by no means relished +the huge luncheons of roasted dogs which were served up twice in +the day. The inhabitants, who came in hundreds to see me, like +their countrymen, were destitute of apparel of any kind, yet +behaved with becoming decency; and I never had cause, in a single +instance, to complain of the conduct of those simple-minded +savages. The male portion of the community seemed to have no +occupation or employment whatever, spending the whole of their time +in lounging and loitering about their native<span class="pagenum" +id="Page_134">[134]</span> village; whilst the women were more +laudably engaged in extracting an oil from a small black seed and +from the guinea-nut.</p> + +<p>My escort returned on the 11th July, and in a tone of deep +submission begged me to go along with them, urging as a reason that +the king of Zeg Zeg would not give his permission to my proceeding +a single step, unless I visited first at Zaria, the capital of his +dominions. Accordingly, our beasts were loaded, and I followed them +a second time to the banks of the Coodoonia, but found the river +still too deep to ford; and one bamboo raft being insufficient to +bear a heavy article without sinking, I caused two of them to be +lashed together, which answered the purpose extremely well. The +portmanteaus, &c. were first taken over, and I, laying myself +flat on my face, was next pushed across by the two messengers, who +swam behind, and dexterously propelled the frame forward by their +hands and feet. The horses and asses were not quite so fortunate, +for the current being strong and swift, they were borne by it +nearly a quarter of a mile down the stream, and<span class= +"pagenum" id="Page_135">[135]</span> could scarcely stand from +exhaustion for some time after they were dragged out of the water. +Every thing being at length safely landed on the opposite side, we +left the borders of the river, and pursuing a north-east course +till sunset, pitched our tent on a rising ground, near to a small +stream.</p> + +<p>Leaving our encampment at half-past six in the morning, we +halted outside Accoran, the first walled town I had seen since +quitting Nammaleek. The west end of it is defended by a gigantic +naked rock, and the other parts by a mud wall and a spacious ditch. +The inhabitants are Bowchees, but so miserably poor that not even a +single goat or fowl could be procured in the town. We were again in +motion on the 13th, and traversing an agreeable country intersected +with shallow streams, arrived at Cowro in the afternoon. The palm +and cocoa, which had been so numerous since leaving Dunrora, +suddenly disappeared after we had passed Accoran, and we saw no +more of those beautiful trees till we reached the kingdom of +Yariba. We remained at Cowro three days,<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_136">[136]</span> the beasts and their riders being equally +fatigued; and its chief, a noble looking Houssan, behaved with the +most studied civility towards his guests. He was neatly clad in a +white tobe, trousers, and cap; but he wore no sandals, and his feet +were stained with hennah. In return for the chief’s kindness, and +the excellent provisions he supplied us with, I made him a present +of an old piece of carpeting, a scarlet cap, white turban, and gilt +chain, which he received with extraordinary demonstrations of +gratitude.</p> + +<p>Having been ferried across a large river called Makkamee, we +entered a town of the same name, situated at the distance of a +quarter of a mile from its banks, where we slept; and on the +following day, halting at Wautorah, a walled town, I shot a few +pigeons, which so terrified the inhabitants that they did not +approach me for some hours afterwards. The morning of the 19th was +damp, foggy, and disagreeable; and Mahomet, who, with all his +intelligence, was an idle scoundrel, wishing to have a holiday, +refused to proceed any further with me. The messengers longed also +for a similar indulgence,<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_137">[137]</span> and fancying, no doubt, I should be unable +to go on without them, followed my servant’s example; but, seeing +through their design, I immediately ordered Pasko and his faithful +wife to load the beasts, and so left the town without them. +Unluckily, a path leading to the gardens of the inhabitants misled +me; but having discovered my error after an hour’s travelling, +instead of returning by the beaten track the way I had come, I +crossed the country in the direction I conceived the main road to +take. Owing, however, to the swampy nature of the soil, I did not +attain it till four o’clock in the afternoon, when, after a journey +of two hours, the beasts becoming exhausted, I pitched the tent by +the road-side, and being greatly distressed for want of water, +slaked my thirst with some, which, oozing from the fissures of a +neighbouring rock, made a gentle gurgling noise, that drew my +attention to the spot.</p> + +<p>We struck our tent on the morning of the 20th, and crossing a +large river flowing to the southward at one o’clock, entered the +spacious and handsome town of Eggebee an hour +afterwards.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_138">[138]</span> Eggebee +is governed by one of the king of Zeg Zeg’s principal fighting men; +and for its excessive cleanliness, the tidiness of its inhabitants, +their prosperity and apparent happiness, yields only to Wow Wow; +and strongly reminded me of my own far distant country. It is +situated on a fine, highly-cultivated plain; and nothing can be +more agreeable than the prospect of the country for miles round. I +have seen many charming landscapes in Africa—many which come nearer +to my ideas of the garden of Eden than any others I have beheld—but +none so pleasingly, softly beautiful, as that near Eggebee. The +earth, clad in simple and lovely magnificence, was embellished with +superb trees filled with singing birds—plots of Indian corn waved +in the wind—a luxuriant vegetation sprung up at every step—every +living thing revelled in enjoyment—happiness, peace, and plenty +dwelt on the enchanting spot. It was evening when I took a stroll a +little way into the country—a calm cloudless, lovely evening. The +earth had just before been refreshed by a shower, and the +sun<span class="pagenum" id="Page_139">[139]</span> was setting in +all his glory; the neatly-attired maidens of Eggebee, returning to +the town with calabashes of milk, sang as they went along; birds of +golden plumage fluttered on the branches of the noble trees; +insects of dazzling brightness buzzed in the air; the stridulous +notes of the grasshopper was heard from the ground; smoke ascended +in circling volumes to the skies from the dwellings of the people; +and the music of guitars and dulcimers swelled from the town,—all +was soothing, serene, heavenly. I was a sojourner in a strange +land; I thought on my country, my kindred, my home, till melancholy +reflections rushed upon my mind, and I longed to lay down my burden +of care and suffering, disappointment, vexation, and sorrow. “I am +unhappy,” I said to myself, “in all this loveliness; I have no +portion in the pleasure that surrounds me. Why am I an Englishman, +why am I not rather an African? I should then be simple as he, +thoughtless as he, happy as he.”</p> + +<p>The delightful town of Eggebee contains a population<span class= +"pagenum" id="Page_140">[140]</span> of not less than fourteen +thousand souls; and its wall, forming a perfect square, measures a +mile each side. The inhabitants being supplied with a fine reddish +sand, (found in abundance along the beach of a noble river, flowing +about a couple of miles from the town,) and a kind of whitening, +use these ingredients for the purpose of cleansing their +calabashes, and other domestic articles; and really it gives one a +sensible pleasure to observe the taste and regularity with which +these are arranged in the interior of their dwellings, and the +extreme whiteness of the whole. The calabashes have figures of +horses, sheep, cows, &c. carved on them by persons whose time +is entirely devoted to this single object, and who receive for the +work on each the sum of five cowries (less than a farthing +sterling). Instead of sleeping on the bare ground, as is the case +in every other town in the interior, excepting Cuttup, the +inhabitants of Eggebee raise a kind of platform at a height of +three or four feet from the floor, supported on clay pillars, on +which they repose themselves during the heat of the day, and at +night. In the vicinity<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_141">[141]</span> of the town grew a great variety of +beautiful flowers, which opening in all their richness to the rays +of the sun, had a truly enchanting appearance. Many of them were of +the same species as those which thrive so luxuriantly in the +interior of South Africa; but the fragrance emitted from the former +is neither equally pleasant nor equally powerful.</p> + +<p>We left Eggebee on the morning of the 21st, and the asses +becoming exhausted, encamped in a thick wood for the night. No +village being near at hand, we could obtain no provisions, and +consequently went supperless to bed. On the following morning we +entered the city of Zaria, and took up our quarters with Abbel +Crême, Captain Clapperton’s host and friend on his journey to Kano. +The king was in the country, and did not see me on the day of my +arrival, but had left orders to have me well supplied with +provisions. His majesty returned in the evening, and sent a +messenger to say that he should be glad to see me early on the +following morning; accordingly at the time appointed I visited him +with a suitable present, which greatly<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_142">[142]</span> delighted him; and he took the opportunity +of telling me that it was entirely for my own sake he had ordered +me to be brought back; for, said the king, “Sultan Bello is at +variance with the rulers of Fundah, and the latter would have you +beheaded the moment you set foot in his dominions, because he well +knows you have been on intimate terms with his powerful +antagonist.” I, of course, acquiesced in the opinion of his Zeg Zeg +majesty, praised to the skies the charitable spirit that had +influenced him, and admired the milk of human kindness that flowed +in his veins; this well-timed flattery pleased the monarch as much +as the present had done; and in the course of the day I received a +present of two fine bullocks. Abbel Crême having intimated that the +king’s eldest son was invested with as much authority as his +father, I waited on him with a trifling gift; on which occasion he +received me very graciously. The prince was a remarkably fine young +man, apparently about twenty-two years of age, and beloved by every +one. As an especial mark of favour, I was introduced into his +seraglio to see his wives.<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_143">[143]</span> They were fifty in number, and on my +entrance were all industriously employed in preparing cotton and +thread, and weaving it into cloth. My intrusion was not remarked +till the prince said, “I have brought the Christian to see you;” +their eyes were immediately fixed upon me at this expression, but +on observing my white skin, the bashful creatures, simultaneously +dropping their work, flew with all possible haste into their +coozies, and I saw no more of them. In the afternoon the prince +offered me a really pleasing female named Aboudah (woman) for a +wife. I was almost frightened to death at the very sound of wife, +yet I accepted her with the best grace I could assume, not only to +avoid offending my royal friend, which would inevitably have been +the case, if I had refused the well-meant offer; but also that I +might at least have the satisfaction of giving the poor creature +her freedom if I ever reached the sea-coast.</p> + +<p>Mahomet came to me on the 23d, having just arrived from +Wautorah, where he had deserted me, and entreated to be admitted +again into my service; but the fellow had behaved so +ill<span class="pagenum" id="Page_144">[144]</span> towards me, +that I ordered him to go about his business. I had seen enough of +him to convince me that no dependance whatever could be placed on +the fidelity of hired domestics; and therefore purchased a slave in +Zaria for seven dollars, to supply Mahomet’s place. The asses being +nearly worn out from our long and fatiguing journey, and requiring +at least twenty days of rest to recruit their strength, I exchanged +them for a strong Yariba pony, which, with a pack bullock the king +had given me was fully adequate to undertake their work. Both the +monarch of Zeg Zeg and his son were warring when we passed through +their territories on our way to Kano; and it was in order to +gratify their curiosity, I verily believe, that I was so +unfortunately stopped on the road to Fundah.</p> + +<p>I bade adieu to the king and prince on the 24th, and, risking +every danger, pursued my journey towards the dreaded Nyffé and +Yariba.</p> + +<p>Leaving the extensive empire of Houssa three days after, we +entered Guârie in the evening of the 27th, and on the 29th pitched +our tent outside<span class="pagenum" id="Page_145">[145]</span> of +the capital, which is also called Guâri. Next day we found the +river, near the city, so much swollen, that I considered it would +be imprudent to attempt to cross; and on the 31st I waited on the +king, governor, or whatever he is, of Guâri, with a present of +light blue and scarlet damask, and a smart red cap. He was a man of +venerable appearance. He wished to know the reason of my having +been so long on the road from Kano, as merchants had informed him +that I had quitted that city some time before. I replied that I had +attempted the road to Fundah, it being the nearer way, but that the +King of Zeg Zeg had sent armed men after me, who had compelled me +to retrace my steps. He observed that if I wished to proceed to +that kingdom then, he would send a messenger with me, and he had no +doubt, as the monarch of Fundah was his particular friend, I should +experience every kindness at his hands. I expressed great concern +at being unable to embrace his generous proposal, having nothing +good enough left to give the King of Fundah; and on +that<span class="pagenum" id="Page_146">[146]</span> account +feeling no particular wish to pass through his dominions.</p> + +<p>His Guâri majesty had in his service an eunuch, whose native +town was not far from Fundah; and, at his sovereign’s instigation, +the man paid me a visit. In the course of conversation with him, +the eunuch told me that he was born at Gibboo, a town situated on +the banks of the Niger, and about four days journey from the city +of Fundah. He had often proceeded by water from the former to the +latter place in eight days, the river running five knots an hour +against him; but the voyage from Fundah to Gibboo might easily be +performed in three, or at most four days.</p> + +<p>I had no opportunity of ascertaining whether the testimony of +the eunuch was actually correct; as the reports of the natives, +whether owing to the difficulty of expressing themselves so as to +be understood by a stranger, or from other causes, vary +considerably. I should conceive that the former is the chief reason +of this difficulty so often complained of; and that in their +relations of rivers and streams, the natives do not<span class= +"pagenum" id="Page_147">[147]</span> designedly deceive, but the +interrogator, taking no pains to obtain a clear idea of their +meaning, forms an opinion of his own which he fancies approaches +nearest to that which his informants themselves entertain.</p> + +<p>I fell in with a party of merchants in Guâri, who were so far on +their journey to Coulfo, and they begged me to accompany them to +that city, in order to repel the attacks of a desperate gang of +robbers, which they affirmed infested the main road leading to +Nyffé, and had committed dreadful excesses. Fearing there might be +some foundation in this rumour, I waited for the merchants three +days; but they not having then paid the accustomed tribute, and not +seeming to have the slightest inclination to do so in a hurry, I +preferred risking the alleged dangers in the path, to abiding +longer at Guâri.</p> + +<p>On the 2d of August, therefore, I paid my respects to the king, +who offered a messenger to accompany me to Womba; but I declined +the offer, observing that I was not afraid to proceed with my own +little party; and on the next morning left the city, without +merchants, messengers,<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_148">[148]</span> or guide. No robbers molested me; nor did I +see a single suspicious-looking fellow on the path; and I reached +Fullindushie, the second town of that name, after a ride of nine +hours.</p> + +<p>The following day it rained incessantly, so that we were unable +to take down our tent, and remained under it till the 5th, when we +continued our course, and encamped outside the walled town of +Kazzagebubba by four in the afternoon. The chief apologised for +sending us nothing better than tuah and corn, on the ground of its +being market-day; and this trifling present was acknowledged on my +part by a red cap and a pair of scissors, which made the receiver +proud, vain, and foolish.</p> + +<p>Next morning we were again in motion, at an early hour: and +having crossed a large river, in the afternoon, we pitched our tent +in the centre of a number of small, uninhabited grass huts, erected +as a temporary abode by a party of merchants some months +previously. In the night myriads of mosquitoes annoyed us so +greatly that we were obliged to set fire to the huts, in order to +be rid of them.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_149">[149]</span>On the 7th we +arrived at the spacious town of Womba; and, being sadly in want of +money, I despatched Jowdie, my slave, to the market with needles to +sell, which fetched fifteen cowries each, and brought me 3,400 of +them. The chief, having declared the road to be dangerous, would +insist on sending an armed guide with me; and on the morning of the +ninth we left Womba in company; halted on the south side of a large +river at six in the evening, and fixed our tent in the midst of +grass huts, similar to those already mentioned; but they harboured, +as on the former occasion, mosquitoes and vermin, so that we were +under the necessity of burning them to the ground.</p> + +<p>Hearing that a gaffle of merchants had been plundered, and many +of them slain, by freebooters on the road I intended +taking,—instead of journeying in a south-westerly direction to +Borghoo, I travelled by another route, and halted at the town of +Beari on the evening of the 10th of August. As soon as one of the +head-men was aware of my approach to the king’s residence, he blew +a blast “both loud and<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_150">[150]</span> shrill,” on a long brass trumpet, in token +of welcome, the noise of which brought all the principal +inhabitants to the spot, who went with me into the chief’s hut, and +seated themselves in a circle round that individual and myself. The +chief was a fine handsome fellow, apparently about fifty years of +age, with a noble expression of countenance and a commanding air; +and the coozie into which I was introduced was the largest I ever +saw in Africa, being not less, I should think, than eighty yards in +circumference. The conversation was carried on through the medium +of a third person, (although the chief himself perfectly understood +what I said,) which singular custom is, I believe, peculiar to +Beari, for I never observed a similar practice at any other place. +The town contained about four thousand inhabitants, and was +surrounded by a high wall and ditch.</p> + +<p>On the 12th we halted at the town of Ragada; and its chief, who +was delighted to see me, gave me a whole sheep, fowls, and a jar of +gear (an ale manufactured from Indian corn). It began to rain a few +minutes after we had quitted Ragada,<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_151">[151]</span> and continued without ceasing till we +encamped a little to the westward of Wittesa, in the afternoon; and +although the portmanteaus were secured in a thick bullock’s hide, +every thing they contained, with the exception of the papers, +became completely saturated with water. In order to dry the tent, +&c. we were obliged to remain at our encampment the following +day, towards the evening of which a fellow came outside the +pavilion with a calabash of bum, and bawled out repeatedly in an +insolent tone that I should come out and drink with him. Being +busily engaged in packing up the articles that had been put out to +dry, I paid no attention at first to the vociferous bellowing of +the man; but becoming at length impudent and daring, he threatened +to break into the tent, when, thinking to intimidate him, I took a +loaded pistol and went out. I told the noisy scoundrel that if he +did not instantly quit the spot, and stop his throat, I would shoot +him without further hesitation; but this menace, instead of +terrifying him, only incensed him the more, and flourishing a lance +he had with him over his<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_152">[152]</span> head, as quick as lightning, he made a +desperate thrust at my breast; but slipping a little on one side, I +parried the weapon with my hands when within an inch of my body, +and this fortunately saved me from being run through. This was +carrying the jest a little too far, and striking the ruffian +violently with the but-end of my pistol, I desired his companions, +who stood near, and were spectators of the whole affray, to take +him instantly from the tent, or I would fire at him in earnest. The +men accordingly dragged away the intoxicated fellow to his home; +but he returned the next morning, and throwing himself at my feet, +begged that I would not inform his sovereign of the conduct he had +displayed, for that he should be beheaded if it came to the king’s +ears. I promised to accede to his wishes, on condition that he +should never get tipsy again; whereat the man evinced the most +lively gratitude, and shed tears of joy.</p> + +<p>We struck our tent on the morning of the 14th, and passing +through the ruins of a large town called Kabojie, halted a little +to the westward of Dogo at three o’clock in the afternoon, where +we<span class="pagenum" id="Page_153">[153]</span> slept. In the +evening I was visited by several respectable females of the +neighbouring town, who brought with them stewed beef and tuah, for +which I recompensed them with a few beads.</p> + +<p>At two o’clock in the afternoon of the following day, we entered +the celebrated commercial town of Coulfo, where I was met at the +gates by the female, in whose house we lodged in our way to Kano, +accompanied by every lady of note in the town, who expressed the +most lively joy on seeing me again; but when I informed them that +Captain Clapperton was no more, they wept bitterly, and, wringing +their hands, made loud lamentations. Although the town was filled +with merchants, and her own house occupied by some of them, my kind +hostess turned out her lodgers, and gave me the best apartment in +it. The merchants came from Cuttum Kora, Youri and other provinces +in Borghoo, Yariba, Kano, and Soccatoo, to purchase Nyffé cloth +(which is decidedly the best in the interior), iron bits and +stirrups, brass ornaments for saddles and bridles, brass ear-rings, +&c. &c. the traffic in which is carried on to a +considerable<span class="pagenum" id="Page_154">[154]</span> +extent. The good old chief sent me fowls, tuah, milk, and bum; my +hostess gave me a sheep; and during my stay, this excellent old +lady supplied me with the choicest provisions daily.</p> + +<p>I take this opportunity of expressing my high admiration of the +amiable conduct of the African females toward me; in sickness and +in health; in prosperity and in adversity—their kindness and +affection were ever the same. They have danced and sung with me in +health, grieved with me in sorrow, and shed tears of compassion at +the recital of my misfortunes. When quite a boy, and suffering from +fever in the West Indies, women of the same race used to take me in +their arms, or on their knees, sing and weep over me, and tell me +not to die, for that my mother would break her heart to hear the +news; and pointing to the ocean, they cheered my spirits, by saying +that it laved the shores of England, and would shortly bear me on +its bosom to my distant home. In fine, through whatever region I +have wandered, whether slave or free, I have invariably +found<span class="pagenum" id="Page_155">[155]</span> a chord of +tenderness and trembling pity to vibrate in the breast of an +African <em>woman</em>; a spirit ever alive to soothe my sorrows +and compassionate my afflictions;—and I never in my life knew one +of them to bestow on me a single unpleasant look or angry word.</p> + +<p>I abode in Coulfo five days, and finding my Yariba pony, and the +bullock the King of Zeg Zeg had given me, unfit to bear the +fatigues of a journey to the sea coast, I exchanged the latter, +with an old Turkish jacket, for a couple of asses; but, owing to +its being in so miserable a condition, no purchaser could be found +for the pony, although I offered to sell it for a dollar. On the +morning preceding my departure, poor little Boussa Jack, the +faithful companion of my wanderings, was discovered lying dead +outside my hut, having crawled from its stable, in the night, to +die as near to its master as possible. Bidding my generous hostess +an affectionate adieu, I paid my respects to the chief, and left +Coulfo in high spirits and health, on the morning of the 20th of +August; and halted at Majonka in the afternoon. In the town +I<span class="pagenum" id="Page_156">[156]</span> met with a gaffle +of merchants on their way to Gonja, to purchase the kola, or goora +nut. Being unable to procure any kind of provisions in the place, I +took my gun, and shot a heron, not being aware that this, being a +fetish bird, is allowed only to be eaten by the chiefs; but, on +being made acquainted with the circumstance, one of the principal +inhabitants, came to my house with a loaded musket, and, using the +most abusive language, threatened to discharge it in my face. Not +at all daunted, I dared him to fire; and hinted that I should take +the liberty of acquainting the King of Nyffé with such +unwarrantable behaviour, when the fellow stammered out an apology, +and sneaked off. Early on the following morning the man returned to +my dwelling, and in a tone of humiliation, begged me not to carry +my menace into execution, (which, indeed, I had no intention of +doing,) and excused the violence of his conduct, on the plea of +having swallowed too large a quantity of bum the preceding day. At +six o’clock we continued our route, halting at twelve at noon at +Dalho, on the banks of the<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_157">[157]</span> river Quontakora, which having crossed with +some difficulty, we journeyed till sun-set, and reached the foot of +a hill, five miles to the eastward of the Niger, where we pitched +our tent, and slept. We arrived on the banks of that river on the +following day, and found it to be at least a hundred yards broader +than it was on our way to Soccatoo; and after our hallooing a +thousand times, the boatman on the opposite side came to fetch us. +My poor slave, Jowdie, who had never seen so large a body of water +before, became terribly agitated at the bare thoughts of crossing +it; but getting him at last, after much persuasion, into the canoe, +I found him overpowered with fear, and he fainted the moment he set +his foot on <em>terra firma</em>. We landed at Inguâzhilligie, +where the principal inhabitants pressed us to remain; but, having +no presents to offer, I declined stopping, and expecting to reach a +village in the evening, made all possible haste to get out of the +town. The path lying through swampy ground, was horribly bad, and +the asses could only travel two miles an hour; so that at six, +<span class="sc2">P.M.</span>, the beasts being<span class= +"pagenum" id="Page_158">[158]</span> completely knocked up, we were +obliged to pitch our tent in the midst of a wild, dismal, +uncultivated waste. In these journeyings Pasko headed the party; +Aboudah, Joudie, and Pasko’s wife then followed with the baggage, +whilst I myself brought up the rear; by which arrangement the whole +of them were under my own eye, and I could watch all their motions. +After erecting the tent, and previously to retiring to rest, it was +my usual custom to read aloud, from a book of common prayer, some +portion of its contents, making the servants sit around me in a +circle. By this pleasing exercise I felt unusual calmness and +serenity steal over my mind; and I slept as soundly in the bosom of +awful woods, amidst the howlings of the tempest and the pelting of +the storm—the yell of the tiger and the hollow roar of the +crocodile—as if I had been reposing on a bed of down in my own +country.</p> + +<p>The roads were equally bad on the 23d, and the rain, which fell +heavily and incessantly, drenched us to the skin; so that about the +middle of the day we were obliged to encamp in<span class="pagenum" +id="Page_159">[159]</span> a small village, where we attempted to +sleep. The poor beasts had stuck in the bogs several times in the +morning, on each of which occasions they were dragged from their +unpleasant situation with much difficulty, and retarded our +movements considerably. None of the inhabitants of the village +understanding the Houssa language, I entered a hut, the door of +which was open, and presenting the inmates with a few beads, made +them comprehend by signs and gestures, that we were wearied and +hungry, when one lean fowl alone could be procured; but having the +good fortune to shoot a guinea-fowl, we made a tolerable supper, +and went contentedly to rest.</p> + +<p>A ride of eight hours on the following day brought us to the +celebrated city of Wow Wow, the birth place of Mohammed, the +residence of the <em>lovely</em> Zuma, and the scene of our +adventures with those two illustrious characters on our former +journey into the interior. I had taken two days and a half on the +road from Inguâzhilligee, while in the dry season we had done it +with ease in one.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_160">[160]</span>The day after my +arrival I visited the king with a present of scarlet and blue +damask, &c. and Mohammed, although he was overjoyed to see me +at first, was greatly distressed, and wept much on hearing of the +death of Captain Clapperton in Soccatoo. He wondered at my being +alive after visiting the Falatah country, the natives of which, he +maintained, were the most barbarous and blood-thirsty in the world; +and said moreover, that I was certainly one of God’s own favorites, +or I never could have escaped so easily from their clutches. I was +obliged to comply with the monarch’s request, which indeed was +tantamount to a command, to abide at Wow Wow a few days, in order +to clean seven muskets and three pistols, which he afterwards told +me belonged to the white men who were drowned in the Quorra. They +had the Tower mark on them, and were in excellent condition. Having +obtained permission of Mohammed to visit the amiable king and queen +of Boussa, whose behaviour to me, it will be recollected was so +inexpressibly kind, after my escaping from my confinement in the +Zuma elopement affair,<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_161">[161]</span> I took old Pasko with me, and left Wow Wow +early in the morning of the 27th; but after journeying till six in +the evening, we had only got half-way to the city, in consequence +of bogs and swamps, which overspread the country. Our horses were +oftentimes up to the saddles in mire and wet, and Pasko’s legs +being excessively short, the exertions of his animal to extricate +himself threw him from its back into the filth on the path, so that +the old man was covered with dirt. The remaining part of the +journey appearing yet more difficult and dangerous, I found it +impossible to go on; and being directed by a glimmering light to a +solitary hut embosomed in trees, we slept there, and returned to +Wow Wow on the following day.</p> + +<p>The king sent me a goat, cut up into small pieces, and a large +bowl of tuah, on the 29th, in order to make a <em>sadacco</em> for +my lamented master; a ceremony common to many places in the +interior, on the decease of any person of consequence. The bowl of +tuah and the goat’s flesh were forwarded to a mallam, who repeated +a short<span class="pagenum" id="Page_162">[162]</span> prayer over +them; but before this ceremony could be performed, it being +necessary to place a gold or silver coin, or in lieu thereof, an +article made of either of those metals, on the top of the bowl, I +put a silver pencil-case on the tuah, which was never returned me. +As soon as the prayer had been offered up, the consecrated articles +were immediately forwarded to me, and hundreds of the Wow Wownese +flocked to my habitation to show their respect for the memory of +the deceased, by partaking of the goat’s flesh and tuah, each +person ejaculating with fervor, on conveying the food to his lips, +“God send the Christian safe to heaven!” It is unnecessary to say, +that the bowl was soon emptied of its contents.</p> + +<p>The day after the celebration of this mournful rite, having +finished cleaning the fire-arms of the venerable Mohammed, I +requested his permission to leave Wow Wow; but the king, smiling, +told me that not half my business was done; for that he wanted to +have six charms, which I alone could write. “The charms,” said +the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_163">[163]</span> learned Moslem, +“will be worn round my waist, and are to possess the following +virtues: 1st charm: if my enemies think of making war on me, it +shall cause them to forget to carry such an intention into effect. +2d. If my adversaries be on their way to Wow Wow for the purpose of +warring, it shall cause them to be dismayed and turn back. 3d. If +they discharge their arrows at my people when close to the city +walls, the province of this charm shall be to make them rebound in +their own faces, and wound them. Let the fourth prevent my guns +from bursting; and the fifth hinder the persons that hold them from +receiving an injury, should they by any accident break when loaded. +The sixth and last charm is to make me the happiest and most +successful of men.” I protested my inability to comply with his +wishes, on the ground of ignorance; but the old man, wisely shaking +his cranium, said with a significant look, “Nay, Christian, don’t +be so modest; I know you have the power; it is useless to attempt +to deceive me; let me see how long it will be before you produce +them.” On the following<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_164">[164]</span> day, therefore, I took my charms to the +superstitious monarch of Wow Wow, on which I had written scraps of +old English ballads; and the prince was so much pleased with my +civility, that he paid me a thousand compliments, and I left him in +the best humour in the world. Thus was I obliged in this, as well +as in former instances, certainly against my inclination, to copy +the example the Arabs had set me, of imposing upon the ignorance +and superstition of the natives, of which I have complained so +frequently. It was utterly useless to deny them so singular a +favour on the plea of incapacity or ignorance; for on urging either +of these reasons, it was not unusual for them to say, “The white +man is ill-natured; he is no good man;” and run away with tears in +their eyes.</p> + +<p>Not satisfied with all I had done for him, Mohammed still wished +to detain me in Wow Wow, and very reluctantly gave me permission to +depart on the 3d of September. He also insisted on my selling or +giving him my gun and pistols, the only fire-arms that were left +me. I endeavoured in vain to coax the old gentleman<span class= +"pagenum" id="Page_165">[165]</span> to waive his pretensions; and +finding him firm in his determination of having the gun, and at +least one of the pistols, I sent them to his residence, leaving it +entirely to his generosity to pay me what he thought proper. The +liberal-minded king shortly after returned four thousand cowries +(worth little more than a dollar) as a sufficient equivalent for +the gun and pistol; but on the ensuing day made me a present of a +beautiful little mare.</p> + +<p>The 3d of September being the day appointed for my departure, +the old king sent a message for me to visit him at an early hour; +on which occasion he wrung from me a promise to return to Wow Wow +in a twelvemonth. He displayed before me various patterns of silk +to bring with me from England, for a tobe he was to wear; and said, +as I was leaving the apartment, “Tell your countrymen, Christian, +that they have my permission to come here and build a town, and +trade up and down the Quorra; we know now that you are good men; +but we did not think so when the white men, who were drowned +before<span class="pagenum" id="Page_166">[166]</span> Boussa, +visited the country.” He had kept me chatting with him on +indifferent subjects till nine o’clock, when we shook hands, and +the old man followed me with his eyes till I was out of sight. On +reaching my dwelling, I found a party of merchants, (whom the +kind-hearted Mohammed had, unknown to me, detained in Wow Wow on +purpose that I might accompany them,) anxiously waiting my +appearance. They were to go to Khiama; and the road to that kingdom +being infested with gangs of robbers, I embraced the opportunity +with pleasure, and we left the city in company about ten o’clock in +the morning.</p> + +<h3>THE WIDOW ZUMA.</h3> + +<p>On approaching Wow Wow, I had not been able to avoid feeling the +liveliest emotions of delight. We had left it under peculiar +circumstances; and the generous, warm-hearted, beauteous Zuma, had +often crossed my thoughts! I fondly indulged the hopes of seeing +that lady again, after so long an absence; and notwithstanding my +refusal to accept of her heart and person,<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_167">[167]</span> I had so managed this delicate affair as +not to forfeit her esteem; besides which, I had never spoken +slightingly of her person; I had never ridiculed her pretensions to +beauty, and <em>therefore</em> I knew well enough that Zuma could +not hate me. It was sweet, particularly in Africa, to know,</p> + +<div class="linegrp-container"> +<div class="linegrp"> +<div class="group"> +<div class="line indent4"><span class= +"strike word-spaced6"> </span>“There was an eye would +mark</div> + +<div class="line indent0">My coming, and look brighter when I +came;”</div> +</div> +</div> +</div> + +<p class="nind">—and all circumstances considered, I was well and +light of heart on drawing near to the beautiful city of Wow Wow. On +the night of my arrival, I was serenaded with the wild music of a +guitar, accompanied by a female voice. Curiosity induced me to +listen to its import, when I soon learnt that the singer was a +slave from my sable inamorata, and sent by her mistress to +congratulate me on my arrival. As soon as I ascertained that this +was really the case, I immediately hailed the young woman, and +admitted her into my dwelling. She came, she said, to welcome me +back to Wow Wow, on her mistress’s account, and to express the +widow’s sorrow for the decease of Captain Clapperton. But what was +of most consequence, and what gave<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_168">[168]</span> me infinite concern, was the news that the +amiable and impassioned Zuma was herself in “durance vile,” by +command of the perfidious Mohammed, who, fearful of the +consequences of the expected rencontre, had filled and surrounded +her dwelling with soldiers, kept a watch over her “thousand” +slaves, and forbidden either the lady or her domestics to maintain +the slightest intercourse with the “Little Christian.” This +unexpected information moved me to compassion; and desiring the +female slave, who had contrived to elude the vigilance of her +guardians, and steal unobserved to my hut, to express to her +unfortunate mistress my deep regret at her predicament, I dismissed +the young woman, and returned to my couch to reflect on the +pitiable condition of the gentle Zuma, whose heart, I had no doubt, +yet throbbed with tenderness for her former love!</p> + +<p>On the two succeeding nights, and indeed every other that I +spent at Wow Wow, I was visited about the midnight hour by the girl +above-mentioned, with her female companions, who brought presents +of honey, &c. from the widow,<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_169">[169]</span> and sung, or rather chanted to me at +different times, the following melancholy tale of her mistress’s +feelings and misfortunes, from the period of my leaving her to the +time of my return. The <em>sense</em> of their strains is +maintained throughout, with the strictest regard to truth:</p> + +<h3>THE SONG OF ZUMA’S SLAVES.</h3> + +<div class="linegrp-container"> +<div class="linegrp"> +<div class="group"> +<div class="line indent0">Scarce, Christian, hadst thou left Wow +Wow</div> + +<div class="line indent2">When Zuma’s tears began to flow;</div> + +<div class="line indent0">They’ve flowed since, they are flowing +now,</div> + +<div class="line indent2">In copious streams of living woe;</div> + +<div class="line indent0">And, shunning pleasure, suffering +pain,</div> + +<div class="line indent0">She wept, and wore Love’s silken +chain.</div> +</div> + +<div class="group"> +<div class="line indent0">A sadness prey’d upon her mind,</div> + +<div class="line indent2">A gloom o’erspread her lovely face,</div> + +<div class="line indent0">As, wandering far and unconfined,</div> + +<div class="line indent2">She summon’d up each matchless +grace</div> + +<div class="line indent0">That charm’d her once, when white man +came,</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Her warm heart fluttering at his +name.</div> +</div> + +<div class="group"> +<div class="line indent0">Oft loitering near the sounding +grove,</div> + +<div class="line indent2">Or hearkening to the Quorra’s roar,</div> + +<div class="line indent0">She told the listening air her +love,</div> + +<div class="line indent2">And feelings never known before;</div> + +<div class="line indent0">The listening air received her +grief,</div> + +<div class="line indent0">But bore it to the yellow leaf.</div> +</div> + +<div class="group"> +<div class="line indent0"><span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_170">[170]</span>The fire that gleam’d in her dark eye,</div> + +<div class="line indent2">The heav’n that in her gesture +dwelt,</div> + +<div class="line indent0">The smile she wore when thou wast +nigh,</div> + +<div class="line indent2">(Which one might think would Alla +melt,)</div> + +<div class="line indent0">All passed away, and envious Care</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Usurp’d the features of the fair.</div> +</div> + +<div class="group"> +<div class="line indent0">Her teeth soon lost their roseate +hue,</div> + +<div class="line indent2">No longer shone her feet with +yellow,</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Her hair, which rivall’d heaven’s own +blue,</div> + +<div class="line indent2">Turn’d softly grey as that of +Lello;<a id="FNanchor_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2" class= +"fnanchor">[2]</a></div> + +<div class="line indent0">The goora nut had ceased to charm,</div> + +<div class="line indent0">And grateful <em>pitto</em> scarce could +warm.</div> +</div> + +<div class="group"> +<div class="line indent0">Thus mistress felt, whilst far away</div> + +<div class="line indent2">The cruel white-faced stranger +stray’d;</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Nor could he hear her tender lay,</div> + +<div class="line indent2">Which every chord of woe betray’d.</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Alas! her melancholy wails</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Were plaintive as the crocodile’s.</div> +</div> + +<div class="group"> +<div class="line indent0">But when she learnt that thou wast +near,</div> + +<div class="line indent2">She flung off suddenly her gloom,</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Colour’d afresh her clustering +hair,</div> + +<div class="line indent2">And bade her teeth their red +resume;</div> + +<div class="line indent0">And frolicsome and full of glee,</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Who was so glad, so gay as she?</div> +</div> + +<div class="group"> +<div class="line indent0"><span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_171">[171]</span>To add to her inspiring bliss,</div> + +<div class="line indent2">With <em>pitto</em> Zuma then got +mellow;</div> + +<div class="line indent0">But oh! that old Mohammed is</div> + +<div class="line indent2">A wicked, most tyrannic fellow;</div> + +<div class="line indent0">For, all her hope, and all her joy,</div> + +<div class="line indent0">He bade his soldiers to destroy.</div> +</div> + +<div class="group"> +<div class="line indent0">They rush’d into her house, and +bound</div> + +<div class="line indent2">The hapless fair with thongs of +leather;</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Forbade her slaves to quit the +ground,</div> + +<div class="line indent2">And tied them hand and foot +together.</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Thus mistress far’d, and all for +thee,</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Unkind <em>Nasarah Curramee</em>.<a id= +"FNanchor_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3" class= +"fnanchor">[3]</a></div> +</div> + +<div class="group"> +<div class="line indent0">But, Christian, Zuma sends her +love,</div> + +<div class="line indent2">As warm as when at first ye met:</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Like that which dwells within the +dove,</div> + +<div class="line indent2">It lasted, and will linger yet.</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Her deep-drawn sighs and melting +tears,</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Will but increase with growing +years.</div> +</div> + +<div class="group"> +<div class="line indent0">Yet, wishing thou wilt sometimes +tell</div> + +<div class="line indent2">Of her, when thou art far away,</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Ere Zuma breathes a last farewell,</div> + +<div class="line indent2">To Alla she will warmly pray,</div> + +<div class="line indent0">To love, and bless, and prosper +thee,</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Blue-eyed Nasarah Curramee!</div> +</div> +</div> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_172">[172]</span>Thus sang the +maidens of the graceful Zuma; and I was not a little grieved to +find myself the cause of unhappiness, and of the infliction of +corporal punishment on so fair a creature, for she was still fresh, +and beautiful, and full of lovely life! I sent her a trifling +present to keep in remembrance of “the white-fac’d stranger;” but +all my coaxing could not melt the inflexible, the iron-hearted +Mohammed to obtain an interview with her; that sage monarch fearing +that a general rebellion would be the consequence of such a +meeting. He well knew that when love was in the question, the +energetic widow was not mistress of her own actions; whilst her +power, her courage, her generosity, and above all, her bulk and +personal charms, would induce thousands to rally round her +standard, and commit all sorts of excesses. It was therefore a +politic, although certainly a most ungallant measure on the part of +the powerful prince of Wow Wow, to confine a lady so unfeelingly;—a +lady whose meek, equable disposition, and amiable spirit, had +displayed themselves in numberless instances! a lady, whose +kindness and affection<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_173">[173]</span> for the white men was so strikingly +apparent. Nevertheless Mohammed comforted me by promising to +liberate her as soon as I had reached a day’s journey from the +city.</p> + +<p>I had scarcely left the walls of the town, when a young woman, +panting and out of breath, overtook me. I immediately recognized +her as being my old acquaintance, the favourite and confidential +slave of the widow; but before I had time to inquire the nature of +her errand, she had produced two calabashes of honey, which her +compassionate mistress had sent by way of refreshment on my +journey. I was, however, greatly shocked when she told me it was +Zuma’s desire, since fate had so ordered it, that she could never +be united to me, that I would, on my return to my own country, let +the Christians understand her extreme tenderness for white men in +general, and that if any one had courage and enterprize enough to +undertake a journey to Wow Wow, she would immediately make him her +husband, depose old Mohammed, and proclaim her spouse king in his +stead. This urgent bidding, although of course it<span class= +"pagenum" id="Page_174">[174]</span> excessively mortified my +vanity at the time, I promised to do;—and I hereby redeem the +pledge I then made! In addition to which I would observe that Wow +Wow is, without exception, the cleanest, healthiest, and most +agreeable city of any in the interior, and one in which an +Englishman, if he could contrive to forget his country and friends, +might live very happily; he might spend his time in hunting wild +beasts and antelopes, sporting, dancing with the beauties of +Africa, feasting, carousing, and fishing; he might take thousands +of delightful excursions on the mysterious Quorra—keep race-horses, +and in fine live like an absolute prince, with the satisfaction, in +dying, of transmitting to his posterity a kingdom, insignificant +indeed as to its population or extent, but withal rich, brave, +compact, and flourishing. This, I am persuaded, (if an Englishman +could be found possessing the necessary qualifications to fill the +throne,) would be more effectual in checking the traffic in human +beings than the united force of all the naval powers in the world. +Yet I would entreat that individual, whoever he might be, +to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_175">[175]</span> be merciful to +the superstitious Mohammed—whose years render him venerable—his +virtues amiable,—and who, with the exception of being rather harsh +to the romantic Zuma, is as innocent as a child; besides that he +was kind to Englishmen, and above all gave me a little mare!</p> + +<hr class="chap"> + +<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_176">[176]</span><a id= +"c15"></a>CHAPTER XV.</h2> + +<hr class="decor width5"> + +<p class="csum">Progress of the route. — The Author, whilst +crossing a river, in the stirrups of his horse’s saddle, is thrown +from its back, and narrowly escapes drowning. — Arrival at Khiama. +— Eccentric conduct of the Prince of that State. — Anecdote of his +messenger. — Pasko’s thieving propensities turned to account. — The +Author enters Katunga, the capital of Yariba. — His reception by +Mansolah, its monarch. — Song of five hundred of his wives. — +Fetish-hut.</p> + +<p><span class="sc">As</span> I have before observed, it was on the +morning of the 3d of September, that, accompanied by a gaffle of +merchants, I left Wow Wow. We crossed the river Auli at noon, after +much difficulty, and encamped on the south bank, shortly after +which I was visited by the mallam of the traders, who gave me some +information respecting Mr. Park, which is embodied in my account of +the death of that enterprising traveller (off the city of Boussa) +in a preceding part of this narrative. The merchants<span class= +"pagenum" id="Page_177">[177]</span> not being ready to start as +early as I could wish the next morning, we left them behind, and, +journeying at an easy rate, attained a convenient spot in the heart +of a solitary wood, where we pitched our tent. At this time I lived +like an eastern prince, generally subsisting on the best the +country afforded; and, towards evening, when I felt fatigued, +Aboudah used to bathe my temples with the juice of limes, and after +washing my feet, either sing or fan me to sleep!</p> + +<p>On the 5th, one of the asses became so ill on the road, that we +were obliged, in a measure, to drag him to the town of Gorkie, our +halting place, where, much against my inclination, I left him to +his fate. The poor animal, looking up into my face, seemed to +reproach me for my cruelty, and, when he saw his companion going +away without him, he strove to raise himself on his legs; but, not +having sufficient strength, fell down again, and brayed loud and +piteously, which was returned by his long-eared associate in a +strain of sympathy that made Jowdie, who attended them, shed a +whole flood of tears. On the morning of the 6th, whilst crossing a +river,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_178">[178]</span> apparently +very shallow, my horse unexpectedly sunk several feet into a kind +of soft mud; and, his legs becoming entangled in the roots of some +trees lying at the bottom, the beast fell on his side, and, +plunging violently, threw me off the saddle. My foot was +unfortunately twisted in the leather stirrups, and I was therefore +unable to disengage it for several seconds, during which time my +head being under water, I was nearly suffocated. Freeing myself, at +length, from the stirrup, I reached the other side of the stream, +greatly exhausted, and, with the assistance of my servants, +succeeded in extricating the horse also from his no less unpleasant +situation. I was afterwards informed at Khiama, by a merchant, that +I might think myself eminently fortunate in having escaped so +easily, as large crocodiles, in great numbers, infested the +river.</p> + +<p>After sunset on the following day we arrived at Yarro, shortly +after which a thunder-storm visited the town with terrific +violence, overthrowing houses, tearing up large trees by the roots, +&c. and continued for three hours, when the tempest was +suddenly appeased, and the weather became<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_179">[179]</span> awfully still and calm. The thunder had +been fearfully loud, shaking the earth on which our tent was fixed: +and large masses of fire, whirled across the heavens, added not a +little of solemn grandeur to this scene of devastation and terror. +On the 8th we were unable to proceed on account of the rain that +fell; but next morning struck our tent, and at noon entered the +city of Khiama.</p> + +<p>Immediately on my arrival I paid my respects to Yarro, the king; +but as soon as he saw me, his majesty asked how I dared to come +into Khiama without having previously informed him of my approach. +I answered, that I had despatched one of his own messengers three +or four days before to acquaint him of the fact, and thought +nothing more was required on my part to insure me a warm reception. +“That is of no consequence,” rejoined the monarch, “you should have +sent another this morning. Get on horseback instantly, and return +an hour and half’s journey, the way you came. On arriving there, +despatch one of your own people to acquaint me with the +circumstance, and I will<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_180">[180]</span> order a sufficient escort to conduct you +into the city in a manner suitable to your rank and +respectability.” I was in the act of complying with this singular +request, when Yarro bawled after me—“I forgive you this time, +Christian; but never be so remiss again.” The king had been +informed, a day or two before, of the decease of Capt. Clapperton, +and appeared much affected on that account in my presence, “but,” +said he, abruptly,—“What business had you with the Falatahs? They +behaved roughly to you, I understand, but surely you had no need to +visit Soccatoo.” I replied, that we were at Kano, on our way to +Bornou, when Sultan Bello sent for us, and that we were obliged, in +consequence, to abandon our intentions, and proceed with the +messengers to their sovereign. Yarro then offered to conduct me +safely to Bornou, saying that he was tributary to the sheikh of +that country; but I replied that Bello having robbed me of all the +presents intended for that monarch, it would be useless for me to +think of travelling so far, with no gifts to offer on attaining the +end of my journey; and, therefore, it<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_181">[181]</span> would be superfluous to put him to any +trouble or expense on my account. My present to the king consisted +of a quantity of damask and silk, a red cap, silk sword-sash, two +pairs of scissors, and a hundred needles. I likewise gave him my +old tent, which had become full of holes, and was quite useless to +me.</p> + +<p>Yarro is an eccentric and facetious character; but without +exception the finest and handsomest man I ever saw in Africa, or +perhaps in any other country. Bello, Sultan of the Falatahs, was +certainly a noble looking fellow, but not at all equal, either in +regularity of features, elegance of form, or impressive dignity of +manner and appearance, to the sable monarch of Khiama. We remained +in the city five days, the conduct of the queens, during the whole +of the time, being as generous and kind as that of their benevolent +countrywomen, of whom I have so often spoken; they supplied our +wants daily, and our wishes were no sooner made known than they +were instantly complied with; so amiable and so praiseworthy are +the actions of African ladies. Yarro entertains the whimsical +notion,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_182">[182]</span> that as +females came into the world naked, naked they ought to live in it +till their death, he does not, however, extend the same opinion to +his own sex. “Man,” said the king, “is the nobler animal, and wears +clothing in token of his superiority over the weaker part of the +creation;” and, in accordance with this singular doctrine, none of +his wives ever dare to approach his presence with any other dress +than that which nature has supplied them with. They steal, however, +every opportunity to break through the established rule, and are +never happier than when bedizened with ornaments, after the manner +of their female acquaintances.</p> + +<p>The people of Borghoo are much more cleanly, both in their +habits and persons, than their neighbours of Yariba, and would, +generally speaking, be more handsome, if they had not the +misfortune to have weak eyes, which impairs considerably their +personal appearance. That part, which in the eyes of others is +perfectly white, is in theirs a smoky yellow; but whether this +sickly-looking hue is occasioned by the manner of living of the +people of Borghoo, or<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_183">[183]</span> whether they derive it from nature, I had +no opportunity of judging. When he addresses the king, a Borghoo +man stretches himself on the earth as flat as a flounder, in which +attitude he lies, kissing the dust, till his business with his +sovereign is at an end; when, covering his head with sand or dust, +he rises and goes his way. When equals meet, each dropping on the +right knee, they shake hands three distinct times, a pause +sometimes of several seconds intervening between the <em>acts</em>; +and, arising at the same moment, they pursue their customary +avocations. The chiefs and head-men claim, from the lower class of +people, the observance of the same humiliating ceremony, which is +exacted by the sovereign; and this manner of salutation does not +vary from Badagry to Houssa.</p> + +<p>Having paid my respects to the facetious Yarro on the 13th of +September, he said to me at parting,—“If your king wishes, at a +future period, to send any one to Bornou, I will conduct him to +that country by a safe route, without the necessity of his +journeying even near to the Falatah country.” He then made me +a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_184">[184]</span> present of a +strong pony; and on the following day we left Khiama; and +traversing a country laid almost under water, halted in Subia at +noon.</p> + +<p>The chief of the town, on my arrival, made me a present of a fat +goat and some yams, with which we made an excellent supper; and on +the 15th, being unable to reach an inhabited place, made a large +fire in the midst of a wood, in the centre of which, having +previously rolled myself up in my tobe, I lay down and slept +soundly till morning. Crossing a creek, we arrived at Mossa, a town +situated on the banks of a river of the same name, dividing Borghoo +from Yariba. The stream was overflowed, and the current so strong +and rapid, that not a single inhabitant of the town had resolution +enough to ferry us to the other side, in consequence of which we +were obliged to stay without food for the whole of the day and +night, not a single goat or bowl of tuah being to be had in the +place.</p> + +<p>I asked the king of Khiama’s messenger why he, in particular, +was so much afraid of crossing<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_185">[185]</span> the water, observing, that I had myself +passed over many larger and more rapid rivers by swimming; and I +mentioned, amongst others, the Quorra. The man begged me, in great +trepidation, as I valued my life, not to mention the names of +rivers in the hearing of the Mossa, which was a <em>female</em> +stream, and had various rivals in the affections of the Quorra, +that river being her lawful husband! “The Mossa,” continued the +sagacious messenger, in the same solemn strain and anxious manner, +“has a jealous, capricious, cruel disposition, and if you venture +to place yourself in her power, she will certainly swallow you up, +for you have already spoken disrespectfully of her, and this sin is +unpardonable; pride being, next to cruelty, her most striking +quality. She is continually quarrelling with her husband, who is a +sober-minded stream, thinking him to be too familiar with other +female rivers; and where they meet they make the ‘devil’s own +noise’ with their angry disputes.”</p> + +<p>Contrary to my usual custom, I absolutely roared with laughter +as soon as the man, with<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_186">[186]</span> the most impenetrable gravity, had finished +his recital of the amours of the licentious Quorra, and was +dragging me away from his jealous wife, the high-minded Mossa; and +I had a hard task to pacify the irritated messenger, whose sable +countenance was inflated with rage and passion at this second +breach of decency and respect on my part.</p> + +<p>I went to the chief of the village of Mossa on the 17th, +intreating him to sell me a little food, and wishing to know +whether it was his intention to starve us, for this was the second +day during which we had tasted nothing; but although the great man, +whose face shone with fat, grew abundance of yams, he refused to +part with any, affirming that he had not sufficient wherewith to +fill his own paunch. Suspecting the oily old scoundrel’s assertion +to be destitute of truth, and learning that he had an extensive +garden, I requested permission for Pasko to cut grass in it for the +use of the horses, which was sullenly granted. The stratagem +succeeded to my expectation, for Pasko, than whom a better person +for the purpose could not be found, succeeded in +discovering<span class="pagenum" id="Page_187">[187]</span> an +immense heap of yams, concealed in a particular place in the +garden; and securing a few of them in a huge bundle of grass, he +brought them to me. If this had not been the case, I really believe +we should have been actually starved, or compelled to storm the +inhospitable village. On the following day I repeated my visit to +the ill-natured chief, and demanded a second time something to eat. +He solemnly declared that he was himself dying of hunger, and that, +though he had caused a strict search to be made the preceding +evening, nothing could be found worth eating. I then urged him to +send his canoe to the opposite side of the Mossa for provisions, +which, after some murmuring, he consented to do, but first of all +made a charm, that the boat might not be damaged on its +<em>long</em> and <em>perilous</em> voyage. For this purpose the +chief killed a fetish-fowl (reserved for religious occasions), and +sprinkling its blood in the river, placed some of the entrails in +the bow of the canoe. He then put a broken egg in its stern, and +muttering an incantation over the whole, the vessel was pushed off +the shore, and reached<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_188">[188]</span> the opposite side in safety; but, in +returning, with a cargo of poultry and yams, the ferryman ran it +foul of a tree which unluckily lay in the middle of the stream, in +consequence of which it was upset, and immediately sinking, the +whole of the cargo swam down the envious Mossa, or was rendered +unfit to be eaten.</p> + +<p>The messenger of Khiama, who had so gravely acquainted me with +the loves of the river, although he was himself a sufferer from the +accident, was too much elated to contain his transports, but came +to me, smiling, and asked what I thought of his former allegations, +and whether I was not convinced it was a judgment upon me for +speaking ill of the spouse of the Quorra, that I was disappointed +in my expectations.</p> + +<p>I was too much concerned to pay great attention to the man’s +observations, which circumstance he mistaking for sorrow and +penitence for my crime, said, “Never mind, Christian, you have only +to humble yourself a little, in sight of the Mossa, and, I dare say +she will overlook your imprudence, because she must be aware you +were a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_189">[189]</span> stranger to +her history, when you spoke so jeeringly of her power and +influence.” I acquiesced in the messenger’s reasoning; and, +clapping his hands, he left me immediately to acquaint his +companions and fellow-countrymen with the white man’s conversion +and repentance.</p> + +<p>The chief, in alluding to the accident, reproached me with being +the sole cause of it; and asserted that it would be dangerous to +cross for three or four days, during which time I might starve, if +I would, for he had nothing to give me. I did not think proper, +however, to do so, and despatching Pasko to the yam repository for +the purpose of cutting grass, the old fellow returned with a double +portion of that grateful vegetable, which served the whole of my +domestics for three meals. Never was Pasko so high in favour as at +that period. For five successive days his visits to the chief’s +garden were regular; but he was obliged to use all his cunning to +avoid being detected by the owner of the yams, who accompanied him +on more than one occasion to the sacred inclosure. Although at the +distance of only a few feet, however, the<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_190">[190]</span> husband of Mattah contrived to deceive the +chief; for, humming a Houssa song, with one hand he gathered the +cut grass into a heap, and with the other, dragged out an enormous +yam from the place of its concealment, and quick as lightning hid +it beneath the grass; then, binding the herbage in his tobe, he +quietly proceeded to our hut, without being suspected by the chief +of Mossa.</p> + +<p>The agitation of the river having somewhat subsided on the 22nd, +we got into a canoe, and with innumerable significant glances from +the timid and superstitious messenger, were landed without accident +on the opposite bank; but our asses were borne a full quarter of a +mile down the stream, before they could effect the same object. A +ride of two hours brought us in sight of Wantàtah, the frontier +town in the empire of Yariba, where we slept; and on the next +morning entered the insignificant village of Hogie, in which we +rested the remainder of that day and the whole of the succeeding +one. It rained unceasingly on the 25th, and the road was rendered +almost impassable; nevertheless<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_191">[191]</span> we succeeded in entering Katunga, the +capital of Yariba, about seven o’clock in the evening, when we +immediately bent our way towards the dwelling which we had occupied +on our journey to Soccatoo.</p> + +<p>Mansolah would not let me visit his palace the morning after our +arrival, fearing it might <em>wet my feet!</em> but condescended to +expose his own royal person to the like inconvenience by coming to +see me at my habitation. On this occasion he was attended by five +hundred of his wives (out of two thousand!) and made a sudden pause +on approaching within a few yards of me. Each of his half-dressed +ladies held a light spear in the left hand, with the right leg +slightly bent; and, leaning partially on their weapon, the end of +which rested on the earth, with unspeakable grace they began their +song of welcome, and dirge for my master’s death. The music of +their voices was wild but sweet, and reverberating from the hills, +had a singularly saddening, although by no means a disagreeable, +effect; and these were the strains they sang:</p> + +<h3><span class="pagenum" id="Page_192">[192]</span>SONG OF THE +WIVES OF THE KING OF YARIBA.</h3> + +<div class="linegrp-container"> +<div class="linegrp"> +<div class="group"> +<div class="line indent0">Welcome, white stranger, to Mansolah’s +land!</div> + +<div class="line indent4">Appear, appear!</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Com’st thou with presents or with empty +hand,</div> + +<div class="line indent4">Thou’rt welcome here.</div> +</div> + +<div class="group"> +<div class="line indent0">Forget thy sorrows, feed thy grief no +more;</div> + +<div class="line indent4">Awake to glee:</div> + +<div class="line indent0">And dance delighted, as thou didst +before,</div> + +<div class="line indent4">Around our tree.</div> +</div> + +<div class="group"> +<div class="line indent0">Mansolah greets thee, with two thousand +wives;</div> + +<div class="line indent4">And small and great</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Have urg’d the gods to save the white +men’s lives</div> + +<div class="line indent4">From Nyffé hate:</div> +</div> + +<div class="group"> +<div class="line indent0">From Borghoo charms, and wild +<em>feticherie</em>—</div> + +<div class="line indent4">Falatahs’ spear;</div> + +<div class="line indent0">From the dead venom of the +kongkonie;<a id="FNanchor_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4" class= +"fnanchor">[4]</a></div> + +<div class="line indent4">And Arab lair.</div> +</div> + +<div class="group"> +<div class="line indent0">Yet one hath fallen where no palm-trees +grow,</div> + +<div class="line indent4">Nor cocoas dwell:</div> + +<div class="line indent0"><span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_193">[193]</span>Where savage bosoms feel not others’ +woe,</div> + +<div class="line indent4">There Bebbo<a id= +"FNanchor_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> +fell.</div> +</div> + +<div class="group"> +<div class="line indent0">O Yaribeans! mourn his early death!</div> + +<div class="line indent4">(Mansolah weeps,)</div> + +<div class="line indent0">For the Falatah draws his infant +breath,</div> + +<div class="line indent4">Where white man sleeps.</div> +</div> + +<div class="group"> +<div class="line indent0">Not one from earth into his grave was +hurl’d,</div> + +<div class="line indent4">Poor lonely thing!</div> + +<div class="line indent0">No kind companion in the other +world</div> + +<div class="line indent4">Will comfort bring.<a id= +"FNanchor_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6" class= +"fnanchor">[6]</a></div> +</div> + +<div class="group"> +<div class="line indent0">Curse the Falatahs! curse them, O ye +gods!</div> + +<div class="line indent4">Their pride lay low!</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Rise, Yaribeans! shake your trembling +rods!</div> + +<div class="line indent4">Bend, bend the bow!</div> +</div> + +<div class="group"> +<div class="line indent0">Swift from your arrows as the bounding +doe</div> + +<div class="line indent4">The Moslems fly.</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Crush them, ye mighty chiefs! o’erwhelm +the foe!</div> + +<div class="line indent4">Or nobly die.</div> +</div> + +<div class="group"> +<div class="line indent0"><span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_194">[194]</span>The Christian’s blood is on them,<a id= +"FNanchor_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> and +the curse</div> + +<div class="line indent4">Of God prevails.</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Haste, minstrels, haste! in palaces +rehearse</div> + +<div class="line indent4">These wond’rous tales.</div> +</div> + +<div class="group"> +<div class="line indent0">Tell ye the world that white-fac’d +strangers will</div> + +<div class="line indent4">A welcome have;</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Or like the Boussans, they will fight +until</div> + +<div class="line indent4">They find a grave.</div> +</div> +</div> +</div> + +<p>Whilst the young women were singing, many of the listening +multitude were greatly affected and shed tears, and all faintly +joined in the strains at intervals. The gesticulation and actions +of the ladies corresponded with their expressions: at one instant +the spear was lifted slowly from the ground, and handed lightly; +and at another it was flourished over their heads with +inconceivable animation and rapidity. At the conclusion of this +singular ceremony the assembled thousands quietly dispersed; and +the singers returned, in the order they had come, to the palace of +their sovereign. Mansolah shortly afterwards came into +my<span class="pagenum" id="Page_195">[195]</span> dwelling, and, +expressing in simple and natural terms his sorrow for my master’s +death, questioned me pretty closely as to the reasons for our +visiting Soccatoo. I returned him the same answer as the king of +Khiama received from me a short time before, which appeared to +satisfy him, and after a conference of two hours he left me. The +monarch was richly dressed in a scarlet damask tobe, ornamented +with coral beads, and short trousers of the same colour with a +light blue stripe, made of country cloth; his legs, as far as the +knees, were stained red with hennah, and on his feet he wore +sandals of red leather. A cap of blue damask, thickly studded with +handsome coral beads, was on his head; and his neck, arms, and +legs, were decorated with large silver rings. Before leaving me, I +offered his sable majesty the horse I had purchased in Kano, (a +fine animal that had carried me nearly the whole of the way from +that city,) and regretted my inability to make him a more valuable +present, promising, however, that if he permitted two messengers to +accompany me from Katunga, I would, on my arrival<span class= +"pagenum" id="Page_196">[196]</span> at Badagry, send back +something more befitting his exalted station. Mansolah accepted the +beast with the usual demonstrations of gratitude; and in the +evening acknowledged the favour by despatching a slave to our house +with a fine fat goat and a quantity of yams.</p> + +<p>The reason why Mansolah had so immense a number of wives is +easily accounted for by the fact that the husband of every female +in his dominions, who has a daughter unfortunate enough to be +endowed with a greater share of personal beauty than the generality +of her sex, is obliged, under the severest penalty, to present her +to his sovereign. Before the interview between the parties takes +place, it is customary for the father to procure a fatted sheep and +a bowl of rice, which are borne by the girl to his majesty’s +dwelling as a marriage portion; and if it should so happen that the +man is too poor to obtain this present, he must on no account fail +to send his daughter, although she is taken no notice of till that +be received by the monarch. When this is the case, the friends of +the young woman subscribe amongst themselves a sum of<span class= +"pagenum" id="Page_197">[197]</span> money sufficient to purchase +the sheep and rice, on the receipt of which she is instantly +admitted into the royal favour and protection, and the greatest +familiarity from that hour prevails between the prince and his +newly-married bride.</p> + +<p>After they have passed a <em>certain</em> age, the king’s wives +are set at liberty, and permitted to trade up and down the country +in the various articles of native produce and manufacture; the +profits of which are uniformly given to the sovereign. The younger +ladies employ their time in the adornment of their bodies, and +beautifying their teeth and hair, in order to make themselves the +more agreeable and fascinating in the eyes of their imperious +master,—to whom they sing, in a kind of recitative, several times +in the day, and whom they fan to sleep at night.</p> + +<p>The principal fetish-hut at Katunga is the largest and most +fancifully ornamented of any of a similar kind in the interior of +Africa. It is a perfect square building, each side of which is at +least twenty yards in length. Directly opposite the entrance is an +immense figure of a giant bearing a lion on its head, carved in +wood, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_198">[198]</span> +beautifully executed. About twenty-six or twenty-seven figures, in +bas-relief, are placed on each of the sides of the hut, but all in +a kneeling posture, with their faces turned towards the larger +figure, to which they are apparently paying their devotions. On the +heads of the small figures are wooden images of tigers, hyenas, +snakes, crocodiles, &c. exquisitely carved; and painted, or +rather stained, with a variety of colours. These are the gods of +the Yaribeans; and the king, accompanied by his caboceers, and +other principal men, repairs to this hut, to offer up his +adorations before the idols, and make complaints if any mishap has +attended their warriors, &c. Whenever Mansolah enters the +sacred temple, he immediately uncovers his head, and prostrates +himself on the floor, which is stained crimson, and very highly +polished; and his example is instantly followed by his attendants. +In this position they sometimes remain for an hour together, either +making loud lamentations, and imploring the assistance of their +wooden gods; or, after repeating their grievances to them in an +under tone, ask the reasoning<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_199">[199]</span> of their ill success or misfortune, and +entreating the figures to be more propitious to their undertakings, +and deal more kindly with them.</p> + +<p>None of the lower orders of people are admitted into this solemn +sanctuary, but prostrate themselves, and pray, without the walls. +One poor old woman alone is allowed to enter, whose business it is +to keep the interior of the hut perfectly clean, and even she dares +not make her appearance till after her sovereign has said his daily +prayers, and left the place.</p> + +<p>There are fifty other fetish-huts at Katunga, on a smaller and +less magnificent scale than the one above alluded to; and public +worship is performed in all of them before sunrise every morning. +If, however, any thing particular takes place in the course of the +day, the inhabitants make it their business to repair to their +temples, and, acquainting their gods with the circumstance, make +observations on it, and express their gratitude or disappointment +with considerable vehemence.</p> + +<p>When an infant dies, the mother invariably wears, suspended from +the neck, and reaching<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_200">[200]</span> to the bosom, a figure of a child, about +six inches in length, and of proportionable thickness, which is +carved in wood, and regarded by the people as a token of mourning. +This is worn for an indefinite length of time, according to the +inclination or caprice of the bereaved parent; and many women do +not cast it aside until the expiration of six, eight, and even +twelvemonths, during which they chat to and caress the wooden +figure, as if it had been instinct with life and motion, possessed +of all the playfulness and endearing manners which distinguished +their offspring when alive, and capable of enjoying the effects of +maternal tenderness. This singular custom is confined exclusively +to Yariba.</p> + +<hr class="chap"> + +<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_201">[201]</span><a id= +"c16"></a>CHAPTER XVI.</h2> + +<hr class="decor width5"> + +<p class="csum">Ebo the celebrated fat Eunuch — The Yaribeans not +very delicate in the choice of what they eat — Dress of the +different people in the interior — Treatment of invalids — Tattoo +marks of different nations — The Author is urged to become +Son-in-law to Mansolah, Generalissimo of his Forces, and Prime +Minister of State — Names of Towns — Departure from Katunga — +Anecdote of a gang of robbers — Mungo Park’s son — Arrival at +Badagry.</p> + +<p><span class="sc">Ebo</span>, the noted eunuch who has so often +been spoken of, and whose mal-practices produced great uneasiness +to us on our proceeding towards Kano, had been taken into favour by +his sovereign, during my absence from Katunga, and promoted to the +highest offices of the state. He came to me, paunch and all, on the +Sunday after my arrival at Katunga, and, laughing heartily at his +former frolics, told me he had no need to make such shifts then in +order to procure<span class="pagenum" id="Page_202">[202]</span> +any delicacy he might want, for that he had only to hint his +wishes, when a bowl of dogs’ or asses’ flesh, a dish of fried +caterpillars, or a saucepan of ants or locusts, was smoking before +him in a moment! I congratulated the lucky eunuch on his good +fortune, and the amplitude of his body, which he took very +good-humouredly; and, during my stay in the city, Ebo the fat +gourmand was my best friend.</p> + +<p>We had heard in Nyffé that the same eunuch had attempted to +poison us through hired ruffians; but his conduct throughout was +marked by so much kindness and affability, that I did not give the +rumour a moment’s belief. There was one action of his, however, +that I cannot pass by without remark, although it detracts greatly +from his good qualities; it is as follows: After begging of me my +remaining pistol, two dollars, and a scarlet cap, he also wished to +obtain my ass, to make a fetish, but I refused to part with the +animal, on the plea that I should want him myself on my journey to +Badagry. Ebo did not urge his request a second time; but, in the +evening, having sent for him from a neighbouring<span class= +"pagenum" id="Page_203">[203]</span> pasture, I found the poor +beast wounded in the side by two poisoned arrows, which were still +sticking in the flesh; and this malicious action had, no doubt, +been effected at the instigation of the disappointed eunuch. The +poison did not act so suddenly as I expected, for the ass +languished for six days; at the end of which time, being reduced to +a skeleton and in great agony, I ordered Jowdie and Pasko to take +him to a short distance and cut his throat; which was presently +complied with.</p> + +<p>No sooner, however, had the king been made acquainted with the +circumstance, than he commanded the carcase to be cut into +quarters, and conveyed to his house; which having been promptly +executed, (his majesty himself superintending the roasting +department, and having assembled his wives and head-men,) they all +squatted themselves on the earth, and made a sumptuous meal on the +diseased ass-flesh. Wishing to display his gratitude for so +delicious a treat, Mansolah sent me a goat and a thousand cowries +as an acknowledgment for the pleasure it had afforded him.</p> + +<p>Ebo one day showed me a small apartment<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_204">[204]</span> in his house filled with cowries (being +worth about fifty dollars English money), and asked with an +exulting air, if the king of my country was half so rich as +himself. “Half so rich as yourself!” I rather indiscreetly replied; +“Why, my sovereign could purchase you, your monarch, and the whole +of Yariba, and not miss the money the purchase of it would +require.” “Indeed,” rejoined Ebo, angrily, “thou liest;” and +without further ceremony was about to fling me into the yard; when, +hastily retracting my expression, I assured the irascible eunuch +that I spoke only in jest, to try his temper; which apology +somewhat appeased the gigantic black, who, laughingly accusing +himself of being rather too quick when his own honor and that of +his country were concerned, invited me to partake with him of a +dozen of stewed rats, and a calabash of <em>pitto</em>!</p> + +<h3>FOOD OF THE PEOPLE.</h3> + +<p>The people of Yariba are not very scrupulous in the choice of +food, eating indiscriminately whatever comes in their way; frogs, +monkeys, dogs, cats, with rats and mice, and<span class="pagenum" +id="Page_205">[205]</span> various other kind of vermin; nothing in +fact is prohibited, and nothing is rejected by their hungry maws. +Locusts, and black ants, just as they are able to fly, are a great +luxury; and, as with the ancient Romans, caterpillars are in very +high estimation; the former are fried in butter or oil, and said to +be delicious, Pasko himself affirming that they were land-shrimps; +whilst the latter are stewed and eaten with yams and tuah, and +consumed by all ranks with the most astonishing avidity. Ass-flesh +is even more esteemed in Yariba than venison in England; and, like +venison, the stronger the odour it exhales, the more delicious is +it to the refined palate of the higher ranks; the lower orders +being forbidden to eat of it in that country.</p> + +<p>On my journey from Wow Wow, halting near a small river, I was +visited by a party of Yaribeans, who had been at Nyffé purchasing +hides for the Katunga market, and were on their way to the capital. +They solicited permission to place themselves under my protection, +and slept near me for the night. A gaffle of merchants had rested +on the same spot about a week<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_206">[206]</span> before, and had left a dead ass behind +them, which emitting an intolerable scent, the Yaribeans were soon +sensible that so rich a prize was at hand, and, snuffing up the +tainted air, went immediately in quest of it. Being guided by the +powerful smell, they shortly after discovered the corrupted +carcase, and fell to blows as to which should have the most +approved joints; but the dispute being at length amicably adjusted +by a mutual agreement to roast the animal whole in its skin, a +large fire was instantly kindled, and when the body became warm +through, it was cut up on the grass, the party sitting in a circle +round the smoking beast. After they had made a hearty and savoury +repast on its flesh, the bones were carefully picked and preserved; +for, as in the case of Moses’ brazen serpent amongst the +Israelites, every person afflicted with a disease of any kind, by +simply looking at a tooth or a bone, was to be immediately made +whole: so ridiculous are the superstitions of the Yaribeans.</p> + +<p>People of that kingdom also go in companies into countries where +the dog is not<span class="pagenum" id="Page_207">[207]</span> +eaten by the natives, to purchase that animal; and they return with +many hundreds annually to Katunga. They then confine the dogs so +procured in huts set apart for the purpose; and after fattening +them, publicly expose the flesh for sale in the market; and a +fatted dog will at all times fetch a higher price than the finest +goat. Yaribeans likewise visit Nyffé, and other nations and +provinces, to purchase the <em>hides</em> of bullocks, horses, +asses, &c. and having deprived them of hair by the application +of boiling water, they stretch and dry them in the sun. When the +moisture becomes evaporated by this means, the skin is cut into +small square pieces and stewed in corn and rice; in which state it +is is hawked through the streets of Katunga, and being esteemed by +all ranks as a dainty morsel, is eagerly purchased.</p> + +<p>Cats are becoming so scarce in Yariba by reason of the bitter +persecution that is carried on against them unceasingly by the +half-starved slaves, that they are seldom seen, and in the course +of a few years, in all probability, these useful animals will be +wholly exterminated.<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_208">[208]</span> Frogs also are much in request, and +although they are certainly not considered by the Yaribeans quite +so delicious to the palate as the French imagine them; their flesh +is by no means regarded as coarse eating. Some of these creatures +are of extraordinary size, and I saw one served up at Ebo’s table, +which could not have weighed, I am sure, much less than five +pounds. The consumption of lizards is confined almost solely to +very poor people and slaves; for the latter being allowed little to +eat by their masters, are often necessitated (leaving their +inclination out of the question) to consume the most filthy things; +and nothing surely can be half so disgusting as a lizard roasted +whole in its skin, and smoking before a hungry Yaribean.</p> + +<p>On feast days, however, both poor persons and slaves fare more +sumptuously, a couple of rats, tails and all, being no strangers to +their boards on such festivities; and sour milk may be had in +abundance. The mode of preparing food does not vary much in any of +the interior countries; but in no kingdom or land +whatever<span class="pagenum" id="Page_209">[209]</span> is less +taste and refinement displayed in the selection of dishes, than in +the empire of Yariba.</p> + +<p>The vegetable food of the Yaribeans consists of yams, plantains, +rice, seven or eight varieties of corn, &c. The yam is the +general food of both rich and poor, and by far the most useful +vegetable of the whole. It is cultivated to a considerable extent +as far in the interior as Nyffé; but it is no where to be met with +after one leaves that kingdom. When drawn from the earth, the root +of the yam is cut into thin slices, and dried in the sun, after +which it is beat to a powder in huge wooden mortars, and reserved +as an agreeable and healthful summer food.</p> + +<p>The manner in which the people prepare their food is either by +roasting, or boiling and stewing. Owing to the heat of the +atmosphere, and the inconvenience of smoke (the use of chimneys +being as yet unknown to them), fires are kindled by every +individual in the yard surrounding his hut, which is used for +domestic purposes; but there are also persons who obtain a decent +livelihood by dressing victuals publicly in the market; and these +men are furnished<span class="pagenum" id="Page_210">[210]</span> +with a kind of earthern stove, having large holes in the bottom, in +order to admit the fire which is kindled underneath. On the top of +the stove other apertures are formed at a convenient distance from +each other, so as to admit sufficient heat to the earthern vessels, +which, being filled with lizards, rats, cats, frogs, &c. are +placed on them, in order that their contents may be all dressed in +as short a time as possible.</p> + +<p>During the rainy months fires are kindled in sheds purposely +constructed for the occasion, it being impossible for them to burn +in the open air by reason of the unabating violence of the weather. +Mornings and evenings are the periods generally allotted for the +preparation of food, and a fire is rarely seen in the intermediate +hours of the day. The yam-flour is usually made into a solid +pudding by being mixed with water, and boiled in much the same +manner as common paste in England; and a person is employed in +stirring it over the fire with a stick till the whole is +sufficiently dressed, which done, the pudding is turned out into a +calabash or bowl, and a quantity of either honey, oil, +or<span class="pagenum" id="Page_211">[211]</span> butter from the +maccadania tree being mixed with it, the paste is eaten with the +fingers. Animal food is roasted on a wooden stake thrust into the +earth before the fire, and after one side is properly dressed, the +meat is simply turned on the other, the use of the jack, or indeed +any article at all answering to it being unknown to the people of +Western and Central Africa.</p> + +<p>In the vicinity of Katunga, and most other large towns, indigo +is cultivated to an extent of from five to six hundred acres. When +ripe it is cut and thrown into large circular pits, lined with +clay, previously hardened by fire; and a quantity of water being +poured upon it, the plant is suffered to rot and ferment, when the +contents of the pit soon becoming of the substance of a thick +paste,—without any further preparation, and without detaching the +stalks and leaves from the seed, it is taken out and made into +irregular masses, about the size of a man’s head. In this state it +is left to dry in the sun, and when sufficiently hard, is exposed +for sale at the markets. Male and female dyers are numerous in +Yariba, and the process of<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_212">[212]</span> dyeing is as simple as can well be +conceived. After the lumps of indigo are dissolved in water, the +liquid is strained through wicker baskets, till it becomes +sufficiently pure, when it is fit for immediate use. Cloths being +immersed in the dye, are suffered to remain in it for a period not +exceeding twenty-four hours, and are taken out and hung on lines +surrounding the work-shops. When perfectly dry, the articles are +laid on a large flat block of wood, smoothed by hatchets and +knives, and a man beats them with a wooden instrument, not unlike +an English cricket-bat, till they become sufficiently smooth and +glossy; in which state they are either offered for sale, or +returned to their owners.</p> + +<h3>DRESS.</h3> + +<p>The apparel of the Yaribeans consists of full trousers, tied +with a running string to the waist, but extending no lower than the +knee; a short sleeveless tobe with large holes for the arms, made +of country cloth dyed with various colours; a fantastically-made +cloth cap, and leather boots; in addition to which the +higher<span class="pagenum" id="Page_213">[213]</span> classes +sometimes make use of red, yellow, and purple silk velvet, obtained +from Europeans on the coast. The dress of the people from Badagry +to Yariba differs very little from that worn by the natives of the +countries interjacent between the latter kingdom and Houssa. Very +poor people and slaves use no other wearing apparel than the skins +of goats, sheep, monkeys, or other animals, fastened to the waist +by a string; and these being brought between the legs, are tied to +the band behind. The more respectable part of the community in +Houssa wear very large full tobes and trousers, made of extremely +narrow country cloth, but beautifully dyed; and a cap of white +cotton. Mallams, however, have a red woollen cap (instead of the +white one), and a white turban. Boots, shoes, and sandals, of red +and yellow leather, are manufactured in a manner similar to those +of Yariba, and worn by poor and rich—mendicant and prince.</p> + +<h3>MANNER OF CROSSING STREAMS.</h3> + +<p>The people of Yariba have a singular mode of crossing rivers and +streams, when the violence and rapidity of their currents prevent +them<span class="pagenum" id="Page_214">[214]</span> from plying +canoes on them with safety. Instead of the ordinary ferry-boat, two +calabashes, or gourds, of the largest size, are selected for the +purpose; and, the tops of each being previously cut off, the two +bodies are sewed together, and rendered water-proof by the +application of a kind of gum. The two gourds thus united form a +hollow sphere; and are tolerably well adapted for the conveyance of +passengers, &c. even through the swiftest currents, as will be +seen by the annexed engraving. The goods, of whatever nature they +may be, are first placed on the floating gourd, and their owner +then grasps the latter firmly with both arms; and a perfect +equilibrium is preserved by the ferryman placing himself opposite +the passenger, and laying hold of both his arms. They being thus, +face to face, the owner of the fragile bark propels it through the +water with dexterity and despatch; and few instances are on record +of accidents occurring by this means, even in the height of the +rainy seasons, when the country is one immense swamp. In Houssa, +&c. the natives use bamboo rafts, which answer the same purpose +as the above, although not with equal ease or celerity.</p> + +<div class="figcenter iw2"><span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_215">[215]</span> +<figure id="i5"><a href="images/i5.jpg"><img src='images/i5.jpg' +alt="Crossing the streams at Yariba" title= +"Crossing the streams at Yariba"></a> +</figure> +</div> + +<h3>TATTOOING.</h3> + +<p>The operation of tattooing, by which the different races in +Africa are distinguished from each other much more easily than by +any natural peculiarity in the colour of the skin, or their general +appearance, is performed by a sharp iron instrument, somewhat +larger than, but certainly not unlike the blade of a common English +pen-knife; and children generally, at the age of six or seven +years, undergo this painful process, which indeed cannot be +effected without<span class="pagenum" id="Page_216">[216]</span> +putting the poor creatures to excruciating torture. I saw two girls +tattooed at Katunga, in the following manner: The hands and feet of +each being first bound, the head was held by the father, and the +operator began his work by making five incisions on the forehead +with the instrument above described; the little sufferer uttering +the most piercing screams, till from hoarseness she was unable +longer to cry aloud, or speak so as to be understood. This being +done, the man cut eight other deep gashes on the left cheek; and +the only means by which one could then judge of the child’s +distress was by observing a large pool of mingled blood and tears +on the ground, fed by a copious stream flowing from the face of the +little innocent.</p> + +<p>The patients are invariably left to bleed till they become +insensible; and death frequently occurs in weakly cases. After some +days, when their strength is in a measure restored, they are +privileged to beg in the streets till their wounds completely heal; +and this does not take place oftentimes for four or five months +after the operation, the children, during that long +period,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_217">[217]</span> carry +slender branches of trees in their hands, in order to scare away +flies, which, on alighting upon the lacerated face, cause +considerable pain, and occasion it to swell prodigiously. This +imparts to the countenance an unsightly appearance; one than which +nothing can be more truly disgusting; and many of these pitiable +objects we observed in the deepest misery, wandering through the +streets of Katunga, and other cities, and almost starving for want +of food.</p> + +<p>When a Yaribean perpetrates ever so trivial a crime, the tattoo +mark of his nation is so crossed by other incisions, inflicted upon +him by the ministers of justice, that it becomes utterly +undistinguishable, and the impression of another people is +substituted on the other side of the face in its stead. With this +brand, which can never be erased, he quits his native country, in +which he was looked upon as</p> + +<div class="linegrp-container"> +<div class="linegrp"> +<div class="group"> +<div class="line indent0"><span class= +"strike word-spaced10"> </span>“A mark for Scorn</div> + +<div class="line indent0">To point his slow unmoving finger +at;”</div> +</div> +</div> +</div> + +<p class="nind">and dies in a foreign land, unpitied and +unknown.</p> + +<p>Circumcision, which is generally performed<span class="pagenum" +id="Page_218">[218]</span> on both sexes at an early age, is +universally adopted in all the interior countries.</p> + +<p>The subjoined are the tattoo marks of the natives of the most +considerable countries in Western and Central Africa.</p> + +<div class="figcenter iw2"> +<figure id="i6"><a href="images/i6.jpg"><img src='images/i6.jpg' +alt="Heads of Natives with Tattoo marks" title= +"Heads of Natives with Tattoo marks"></a> +<p class="cp1"><em>Borghoo.</em> — <em>Nyffé.</em> — +<em>Yariba.</em> — <em>Cuttum Cora.</em> — <em>Houssa.</em></p> +</figure> +</div> + +<p>The Bowchee people have no mark whatever on the face, but in +lieu thereof pierce the lobe of the ear, and the soft part of the +septum of the nose, with a sharp instrument; and hang divers +ornaments from holes so formed.</p> + +<p>The wives of the great people of Katunga are distinguished by +having the hair cut and shaved<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_219">[219]</span> into a number of small patches like the ace +of diamonds, but larger; and that of the wives of the humbler +classes is cut entirely off, leaving the head as bald and bright as +a barber’s basin.</p> + +<p>In the empire of Yariba the sick are treated with neglect, and +even cruelty. The moment a man, woman, or child, is attacked with +illness, no matter what the nature of the complaint may be, they +are instantly conveyed by their relatives to the distance of half a +mile from the town, and left to lie along the bare ground, in a +state of the most perfect nudity, underneath the branches of trees; +and the people are acquainted with no remedy whatever to alleviate +the virulence of their disorder, or assuage the intensity of their +sufferings. Food is sometimes conveyed to them by their nearest of +kin, the law obliging them to do so; but sometimes they die from +actual starvation. Often the lower class of people are so very poor +that they have not a sufficiency to satisfy the appetites of their +healthy offspring, and therefore feel no disposition to part with +the little they have, to those (perhaps aged parents) who are +sinking under<span class="pagenum" id="Page_220">[220]</span> the +influence of a contagious disease. It sometimes happens, too, that +these miserable outcasts are snatched from their insecure asylum +under the trees, and devoured by wild beasts. Native travellers are +now and then moved to compassionate their sufferings, by reason of +the piteous lamentations which they make; but, shrinking with +terror from the distressed objects, they throw yams to them at the +distance of twenty or thirty yards, and never go near enough to +inquire into the nature of their malady, or further relieve their +wants. Whenever an unhappy invalid is carried off by wild beasts, +his countrymen believe him to have been a very wicked man, so bad +indeed as to have been unworthy the succour and protection of their +gods, and consequently deserving the fate which his supposed evil +conduct and irreligious life had so signally occasioned. Many of +these poor creatures, whose hollow groans and moanings of distress +have attracted me to the spot, have I seen in the last stage of +existence, some of them rolling in the dust, and convulsively +writhing from excessive pain, and some reduced to +perfect<span class="pagenum" id="Page_221">[221]</span> skeletons +for want of food, their bones jutting out of their diseased flesh, +and exhibiting a more ghastly spectacle than can well we imagined: +others again have I found speechless and almost cold; and on one +occasion in particular, whilst I was gazing on a poor wretch who +was far beyond the reach of succour, he fixed his hollow eyes so +piteously upon my countenance, seeming to implore me to let him die +in peace, that I could not refrain from shedding tears.</p> + +<p>This barbarous and inhuman custom of exposing invalids in the +open air, under the shade of trees, is confined to Yariba, the +people of Badagry, and the natives of Borghoo, Nyffé, and Houssa, +suffering their sick to expire quietly in their own houses, if, +after swallowing a liquid which is prepared for them by their +priests, or the expounders of the Moslem faith, the patients derive +no apparent benefit from the medicine. This preparation consists +either of a bowl of water into which a charm written with ochre on +a bit of wood, has been previously washed off, or else a decoction +of the bark of a tree, rendered holy by an incantation of a fetish +priest.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_222">[222]</span>The Yaribeans +have the reputation of being the best bowmen in Africa; and the +young men soon become excellent marksmen by frequent practice and +steady perseverance, which latter is a virtue that falls to the lot +of but few nations in the central parts. They amuse themselves +daily by attempting to discharge arrows through a small hole made +for the purpose in a wall, at a great distance from the standing +ground, and I have frequently seen individuals accomplish this +difficult task three successive times, when upwards of a hundred +yards from the spot; but it requires great and unceasing practice +to attain to so much perfection in the art. Quantities of muskets +are procured from the coast, but they are of comparatively little +use to the people, who know not how to handle them with effect; and +it is not unusual for them to carry these weapons to battle without +either powder or ball. If worsted in an engagement, however, in +order to accelerate their speed, they throw them away, and their +enemies eagerly lay hold of the empty muskets for their own +use.</p> + +<p>Besides other sources of revenue, the King of<span class= +"pagenum" id="Page_223">[223]</span> Yariba levies a tax on every +one that enters the gates of Katunga with a load, of whatever it +may consist, and also appoints persons to collect a tribute from +every person attending the market with any saleable commodity. The +amount of duty is always governed by the value of the beast or +article sold, which is decided by accredited agents: for example, a +handsome horse imported from Borghoo, or any other country, is +liable in the market to a tax of two thousand cowries; whereas if +the animal so exposed for sale be less handsome, or of inferior +value, the sum demanded decreases regressively in amount. The same +rule holds good in regard to bullocks, country cloth, &c.</p> + +<p>We were mistaken in supposing the crown of Yariba to be +hereditary, the chiefs invariably electing, from among the wisest +and most sagacious of their own body, an individual who is invested +with the supreme dignity, immediately after the decease of a +monarch. On the dissolution of a ruling prince, his eldest son, +together with his favourite wife, and several head men +of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_224">[224]</span> the kingdom, +voluntarily destroy themselves by swallowing poison, and are +inhumed in the same grave with their sovereign, to assist him in +his wanderings in the other world. At their solemn sacrifices, the +Yaribeans slay for the occasion old and infirm persons, whose life, +say they, is a burden to them; and who manifest no reluctance +whatever to yield up their pain and misery for the honour of the +gods. With this solitary exception, the people may be considered as +mild in their manners and charitable in their dealings.</p> + +<p>The king strongly urged upon me to remain in Katunga with him, +and tried every means to accomplish his wishes. Amongst other +inducements held out, Mansolah was graciously pleased to introduce +me to his daughters, four of the most beautiful of whom he desired +me to select, and make my wives. He also offered me the enviable +situations of prime minister and great war-chief, or generalissimo +of his forces (both of which offices are highly respectable in +Yariba), and in case I accepted them, his majesty would make me a +present of slaves, horses, and indeed<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_225">[225]</span> every thing needful to maintain an +establishment correspondent to the splendour of my rank, and the +dignity of my appearance. It being entirely out of my power to +resist the pressing solicitations of the king, I pointed at four of +the princesses (who stood bolt upright before me, giggling and +laughing,) as being the most lovely of their sex, and as worthy to +share the bed and fortune of the prime minister of Yariba! I +desired that the ladies might resume their apparel, and take care +of themselves till my return from England, for that it was +absolutely necessary I should visit the country of my fathers +before I could think of settling permanently in a strange and +distant land. “But will your king,” eagerly inquired Mansolah, +“will your king give you permission to come back again?” “Without +doubt,” I replied. “I shall then be master of my own actions, and +follow the bent of my inclination in all things.” “That is right, +that is right,” replied the monarch; “you shall be my son-in-law, +and have the administration of my affairs, both foreign and +domestic; you shall drive my adversaries<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_226">[226]</span> from my country: it will then be a good +country, and peace will reign in the land.” I thanked Mansolah for +his kindness, and observed that I sincerely hoped, on my return, I +should not be dazzled by the acquisition of so much glory and power +as his good nature and condescension would necessarily confer upon +me!</p> + +<p>As soon as I had done speaking, a loud noise was heard of peals +of laughter, cracking of fingers, whistling, and clapping of hands, +proceeding from the quarter in which the princesses of the blood +were huddled together, who took the opportunity my silence afforded +them, of expressing the rapture they felt at the hope of my so soon +becoming their near relative, and of a white man superintending the +domestic policy of their government, and leading their countrymen +to battle and to victory. The favourite queen, who was present at +the interview, as soon as the tumult had subsided, begged me to +bring her a looking-glass from England; and Ebo, the fat eunuch, +who was also present, evinced not the least spark of jealousy, but +hinted that a good sword from the same country would be more than +acceptable;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_227">[227]</span> whilst +Mansolah, the heroic prince of all the Yaribeans, was so much +overpowered at the very idea of my becoming his son-in-law, that he +stood moping and whimpering by himself, deprived of the power of +asking for a single favour!</p> + +<p>An Englishman, tired of his country, would be delighted with +Yariba, for it is a fine kingdom, peopled with a mild, +affectionate, and unassuming race, by whom he would be regarded +almost as a deity, and amongst whom he could end his days with +pleasure. At the decease of the reigning monarch, with very little +art, and, I may venture to say, no opposition, he might cause +himself to be proclaimed king, and thus be sultan of the mighty +empire of Yariba! Becoming familiar with the usages of his sable +subjects, with two pieces of cannon he might drive every Falatah +out of his dominions, and restore the kingdom to its ancient +splendour. But above all things, if he felt so inclined, the +slave-trade, by his influence and example, would gradually be +abhorred by his subjects, who, if they saw that their monarch +professed the same<span class="pagenum" id="Page_228">[228]</span> +principles, would besides eagerly embrace the mild and simple +precepts of the Christian religion. The people of Katunga had +become so familiarized to me during my residence amongst them, that +I had ceased to excite that intense curiosity displayed on my first +arrival; and, next to their sovereign, I was treated with the +highest respect by all ranks and ages, and interrupted in long +rambles only by prostrations, and other demonstrations of +veneration, peculiar to the Yaribeans.</p> + +<p>The names of towns in Africa, as well as of individuals, have +something descriptive and significant in them; for instance—<em>Wow +Wow</em>, a great fool;—<em>Inguazhilligee</em>, +ferry-boat;—<em>Boussa</em>, a kind of ale;—<em>Fullindushie</em>, +a white stone;—<em>Kassagebubba</em>, a large fowl, &c. &c. +Slaves are called by all manner of names; sometimes from any +singularity in their appearance, or defect in their +understandings—and sometimes by terms expressive of abhorrence or +contempt; but much more frequently they have the names of birds, +beasts, or reptiles, bestowed upon them by their masters,—thus one +is called<span class="pagenum" id="Page_229">[229]</span> simply +“woman vulture,” or “man vulture;”—“woman snake,” or “man snake;” +and Pasko’s Soccatoo wife was generally known by the elegant +appellation of “woman elephant;” whilst others are distinguished by +the name of a certain river, tree, mountain, or other natural +object.</p> + +<p>I remained at Katunga nearly a month, experiencing every species +of friendship and good nature from its inhabitants; and on the +21st, when I intimated my desire to pursue my journey to the +sea-coast, Mansolah sent me four thousand cowries, with a quantity +of trona to sell on the road. The king also ordered his head +messengers to accompany me, commanding them to desire the chiefs of +every town through which the main path lay, to contribute, +according to their ability, to the support of myself and +attendants; which command we afterwards found on various occasions +to be eminently serviceable.</p> + +<p>The following morning early, I paid my respects to the prince, +and having taken an affectionate leave of him, once more continued +my course, in good spirits, and better health than I had enjoyed +for a long period previously. Journeying<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_230">[230]</span> till the 8th of November, and meeting with +few incidents worth relating, we arrived at Engwâ, the town in +which it will be recollected Captain Pearce died and was buried, on +his way to Katunga. I found the railing and fence, which had been +placed round the grave, washed away by the rains, and the piece of +wood, on which I had engraved his name, &c., had disappeared, +most probably from a similar cause. The only means by which I was +enabled to recognize the spot, was the circumstance of the earth +over the grave having sunk considerably, and being quite destitute +of vegetation, whilst the soil near it was covered with luxuriant +herbage. The chief told me that having received no orders to repair +the damage, occasioned by the floods, he had suffered the fence to +fall to decay; but, at my own suggestion, he promised to erect a +shed over the spot as soon as the sun had dried the grass. I made +him a trifling present to encourage him in his intention, and +preparations for that purpose had already commenced previously to +my departure from Engwâ.</p> + +<p>Leaving Tschow, a day’s journey on the Katunga<span class= +"pagenum" id="Page_231">[231]</span> side of Jannah, on the 11th, I +met, a few miles only from the town, a gaffle of merchants, +hastening with the utmost speed and confusion towards it. They +suddenly stopped on perceiving me, and a great number of them +bawled out at the same moment, that they had been attacked by a +band of robbers, who had overcome them, carrying off all their +goods; and that if I did not go back to Tschow, with them, I should +be murdered in a few moments, as the desperadoes were close at +their heels. Instead of returning, however, I entreated them to go +on with me, assuring them that with their assistance, the property, +of which they had been so unlawfully deprived, should be recovered, +and restored within half an hour; but the timid merchants, being +afraid to expose their persons to so imminent a danger, politely +declined the invitation, on the plea of being too much fatigued. My +party consisted only of ten individuals, four of whom were women, +and all unarmed, with the exception of Pasko and myself, who were +furnished with a damaged pistol and an old rusty musket, borrowed +of the king of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_232">[232]</span> +Katunga. With these weapons I resolved to proceed on the road at +all hazards, and had the good fortune, about twenty minutes +afterwards, to come in sight of the so much dreaded banditti. They +were seated on the grass, dividing their ill-gotten spoil, and +appeared to take no notice of me till I came within fifty or sixty +yards of the spot, when, desiring Pasko to fire, I struck spurs +into the horse’s sides, making him gallop with great swiftness, and +the path being rocky and hollow, the sound produced seemed as if a +thousand horses were prancing over the ground. At that moment, +discharging my pistol, I completed the general consternation of the +highwaymen, who, without looking behind them, fled in all +directions, and concealed themselves in some rank grass, that was +growing at a short distance, to the height of nine or ten feet, +leaving their booty behind them, which consisted of upwards of +three hundred pounds of salt, besides country cloth, cowries, +&c.; and the captured articles, by the laws of the country, +thus became my own property.</p> + +<p>The merchants who had, unknown to me,<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_233">[233]</span> followed at a respectful distance, as soon +as they saw the utter discomfiture of the thieves, made their +appearance, and asserted, with a most amusing solemnity, that +having determined to share my good or bad fortune, they were making +all haste to my assistance, when the freebooters, by their +precipitate, and to them unlucky retreat, had prevented them from +displaying the courage which animated every bosom. I accepted their +courtly apology, and praised their heroic resolution, but being +determined not to give them the value of a single cowry, ordered my +party to return with the captured goods to Tschow. The chief of +that town himself purchased the different articles, and Pasko and +his companions divided the money equally among themselves, I having +refused to accept of any, although urged to take the whole.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon of the same day we arrived at Jannah, and +instantly visited the grave of Dr. Morrison, which I found in a +perfect condition. The king was to have been rewarded by Mr. +Houtson, for preserving the fence which<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_234">[234]</span> surrounded it, from decay; but that +gentleman having himself died near Accra, on his return to the +coast, the monarch had received no acknowledgment for his trouble +till my arrival at Jannah, when I fully satisfied his demands.</p> + +<p>On the 13th the horses which the kings of Wow Wow and Khiama had +given me, both died, and the one I had left was in a weak and +diseased state.</p> + +<p>The son of Mr. Park, the celebrated African traveller, died in a +small town two days’ journey in the interior from Accra, only three +days before my arrival on the coast. I first ascertained his name +by reason of a shirt sent in mistake for one of my own which I had +given a female to wash,—“Thomas Park,” being marked in legible +characters at the bottom. This young Englishman, on coming into the +country, used no precautions with regard to the preservation of his +health, but, adopting the habits of the people with whom he +mingled, anointed his head and body with clay and oil, ate +unreservedly the food of the natives, and exposed himself, +with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_235">[235]</span> scarcely any +clothing, to the heat of the sun by day, and the influence of the +pernicious dews by night,—in consequence whereof, as might have +been expected, he was attacked with fever, which put an end to his +existence after a very short illness. Mr. Thomas Park had formed +the pious resolution of discovering the spot where his intrepid +father had met his fate, and of ascertaining, if possible, the +cause and manner of his death; in which attempt he was defeated +only by his own dissolution. Had the young gentleman survived a few +days longer, I could have fully satisfied him in these particulars, +and given him directions, in case of his recovery, for proceeding +to the island of Boussa.</p> + +<p>On the 21st of November we entered Badagry, having been a month +on the road from Katunga; and I am compelled to acknowledge that in +no town were we received with unkindness, the people every where +welcoming us back again with vociferous expressions of pleasure. +Sometimes indeed, particularly between Jannah and Badagry, they +howled so dreadfully on<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_236">[236]</span> seeing me, that the horse on which I rode +trembled with fear; but this was the means which the natives took +to congratulate me on my safe return. Adólee the king of Badagry, +was glad to see me, and resigned his mansion (constructed of +bamboo, and two stories in height) to me, whilst he contented +himself with a small miserable hut, in which he took up his +residence. Like every other prince in Africa, he was grieved to +learn the decease of Captain Clapperton, and expressed his sorrow +in a feeling manner. I gave his majesty my little horse, which had +accompanied me the whole of the way from Soccatoo, together with +all the articles for presents that were left, consisting of light +blue scarlet damask, scarlet and blue silk, and two dozen pairs of +cotton stockings. A week after my arrival, I waited on Captain +Morrison, a Portuguese slave merchant, and obtained of him goods, +the value of which amounted to ninety-four dollars, with a barrel +of gunpowder, which I paid for myself. With these presents I +dismissed the messengers of the<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_237">[237]</span> kings of Jannah and Katunga, whom I could +not afford to maintain any longer in provisions, and they returned +to their respective sovereigns in high spirits.</p> + +<hr class="chap"> + +<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_238">[238]</span><a id= +"c17"></a>CHAPTER XVII.</h2> + +<hr class="decor width5"> + +<p class="csum">Novel method adopted by Europeans for conveying +slaves on board their vessels — Conduct of the Portuguese +Merchants, resident at Badagry, towards the Author — The White +Negroes — Manners and Ceremonies of the Badagrians — Horrid +indifference with respect to the shedding of Human Blood — Murder +of two of the King’s wives by moonlight.</p> + +<p><span class="sc">By</span> reason of the vigilance of British +men-of-war on the coast, merchants are obliged to use much greater +caution than formerly, for eluding observation, and embarking their +purchased slaves. The plan now generally adopted is as follows: as +soon as a vessel arrives at her place of destination, the crew +discharge her light cargo, with the manacles intended for the +slaves, and land the captain at the same time. The vessel then +cruises along the coast to take in country cloth, ivory, a little +gold dust, &c.; and, if a British man-of-war be near, the crew +having<span class="pagenum" id="Page_239">[239]</span> nothing on +board to excite suspicion, in most cases contrive to get their +vessel searched whilst trading with the natives. At such time as +they fancy their presence would be necessary, they return to the +place where the cargo had been landed, and communicate with the +captain on shore, who, during their absence had not been idle; and +who then takes the opportunity of acquainting his crew with the +exact time in which he will be in readiness to embark. The vessel +then cruises a second time up and down the coast, till the +appointed day approaches, when she proceeds to take in her living +cargo.</p> + +<p>Immediately on sight of her every canoe for miles near is put in +requisition by the captain; provisions and water are speedily +conveyed on board; and last of all, the wretched slaves are dragged +forcibly towards the boats, and received by the European crew, who, +as soon as this is effected, crowd all sail, and the vessel quickly +disappears. I saw four hundred slaves at Badagry crammed into a +small schooner of eighty tons; and the appearance of these unhappy +human beings was squalid and miserable in the extreme.<span class= +"pagenum" id="Page_240">[240]</span> They were fastened by the neck +in pairs, only a quarter of a yard of chain being allowed for each, +and driven to the beach by a parcel of hired scoundrels, whilst +their associates in cruelty were in front of the party, pulling +them along by a narrow band, their only apparel, which encircled +the waist.</p> + +<p>On leaving their native shore in the canoes, the wretched slaves +set up a wild and dismal lament, which rent the air, and might have +been heard at a considerable distance; but their tears failed to +soften the hearts of the relentless Christians, who huddled them +hastily into the hold of their vessel; and the cries of the +Africans were heard no more.</p> + +<p>Captain Morrison was the only Portuguese in the town that +behaved with even common civility to me; the others, seven or eight +in number, evidently viewed me with suspicion and alarm, and +actively exerted themselves to persuade Adólee and his people that +it would be necessary to destroy me, asserting that I was a spy +sent by the English Government, and if suffered to leave the city, +would return with numbers of my countrymen,<span class="pagenum" +id="Page_241">[241]</span> and enslave its inhabitants. What +success these insinuations met with, will hereafter be related; but +in the mean time these very men kept up an outward show of +friendship and esteem for me during a long period, and strove all +in their power to lull suspicion asleep, by endeavouring to +strengthen the favourable opinion they flattered themselves I +entertained for their merits; and, by apparent frankness of manner +and openness of conduct, to do away any evil impression which the +rumour of their clandestine practices might have awakened in my +bosom. But although I maintained the profoundest taciturnity on the +subject, I was perfectly well acquainted with the whole of their +manœuvring, and prepared to encounter it in whatever way it might +at first annoy me.</p> + +<p>Amongst other things, the Portuguese at Badagry earnestly +entreated me to sell my poor slaves, and offered ninety-five +dollars for each of them; but of course I rejected their proposal +with the contempt it merited. I went to see one of these +slave-merchants one day by special invitation: he was +at<span class="pagenum" id="Page_242">[242]</span> breakfast on my +entering his hut; and wheaten rolls and tea and sugar, were smoking +and giving odour before him. I ardently wished at the time to seat +myself at his side, and partake of the good things spread out so +temptingly in my sight; for I had not tasted bread for nearly two +years previously, nor tea or sugar for eighteen months; so that my +childish propensity is not to be wondered at. The Portuguese, +however, although he looked first at me and then on his breakfast, +did not seem to be in a hurry to invite me to share it with him: +so, fancying he felt some delicacy and bashfulness about the +matter, which his eyes seemed to confirm, I was preparing very +unceremoniously to help myself, but thought I might as well in the +first place ask his permission. This I did in the best-tempered +manner in the world; but the surly, ill-natured European, dropping +the tea he was conveying to his lips, almost frightened me out of +my wits, by exclaiming, “Stay your hand for a moment, if you +please, Mr. Englishman; you have three fine slaves in your +possession, for each of whom I will immediately pay you a hundred +dollars,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_243">[243]</span> and also +send you as many wheaten cakes as will serve you for a twelvemonth; +but, unless you consent to this proposal, you will have neither +rolls nor tea of mine, I assure you.” I could not think of +gratifying my appetite at the expense of my poor slaves, the +faithful companions of my pilgrimage; so concealing, as well as I +was able, the disappointment I could not help feeling, I arose, and +bestowing on the Portuguese the epithets of a heartless, unfeeling +scoundrel, hastily quitted his inhospitable roof, and repaired to +my own dwelling. There I breakfasted more contentedly on a little +boiled Indian corn, mixed with palm-oil and water, my usual fare, +than if I had enjoyed all the luxuries in the world by wounding my +conscience, and doing violence to the best feelings of my +nature.</p> + +<p>The same individual, however, three days after, sent me a loaf +of bread and a cheese, with a bottle of English porter, articles of +which I had <em>dreamt</em> repeatedly in the interior, but of +which I never expected to partake in Africa. The merchant held out +the same inducements as before to obtain my slaves; but although I +obstinately<span class="pagenum" id="Page_244">[244]</span> refused +to accede to his reiterated request, I could not, for the life of +me, resist the strong temptation I felt to claim a more familiar +acquaintance with the presents placed so provokingly within my +reach; and instead of returning them, which was to be the +consequence of my refusal, I desired the bearer to acquaint his +master with my high admiration of his noble conduct, and my extreme +gratitude for a favour so unexpected and undeserved on my part; but +to add, that, being determined not to be outdone by him in acts of +generosity, I should take the liberty, on the arrival of a British +vessel on the coast, of returning the compliment by a suitable +acknowledgment.</p> + +<p>My decided determination not to part with my slaves for any +consideration, and the answer the messenger delivered to the +slave-dealer, so greatly exasperated both him and the whole of the +Portuguese in the place, that on meeting me in the streets, they +used to pour out, in broken English, a whole volley of oaths and +curses; and took care not to bestow on me further proofs of their +good nature and benevolence, till the arrival<span class="pagenum" +id="Page_245">[245]</span> of the brig Maria of London at Badagry +again opened the sluices of their amiable and charitable feelings, +and I was favoured a second time with a present, yet more +acceptable than the first, which was sent on condition that I would +not make my countrymen acquainted with the fact of any Portuguese +being in the town.</p> + +<p>I saw two milk white negroes, male and female, with red hair and +eyes, on my return from the interior; the one at Tschow, and the +other at Badagry. Having examined their bodies pretty minutely, I +am confident that they laboured under no disease whatever; indeed +they told me themselves that they entered the world in the +condition in which I beheld them. Neither of these unsightly +individuals appeared to attract a large portion of the curiosity of +their sable countrymen; nor did their singular and loathsome +appearance excite in their breasts any emotion of horror or +disgust. The skin of these white Africans was by no means like that +of a fair European, having a much paler and more<span class= +"pagenum" id="Page_246">[246]</span> unearthly hue; but without +tumours or scrofulous affection of any kind.</p> + +<p>I had retired to rest rather earlier than usual one evening, +being greatly fatigued, when about the midnight hour a loud, long, +and piercing shriek awoke me with a start, and springing hastily +from my couch, I turned aside the slight mat which served instead +of glass for my window, to ascertain the cause of it. The moon +shone in the heavens with peculiar lustre and beauty, rivalling in +splendour the brilliant orb whence she receives her light, so that +I was enabled to distinguish clearly every object for some distance +from the hut. Another fearful scream at the moment arrested my +undivided attention upon a group of persons about ten or twelve +yards from my window, in the midst of whom I could perceive two +females struggling violently to get loose from the iron gripe with +which they were held by their merciless guardians. I called as +loudly as I could to the fellows, (who, as well as the perturbation +of my mind, and the confusion of the scene would allow me to +discern, were eight in number,) to demand the<span class="pagenum" +id="Page_247">[247]</span> reason of their ill-treatment of the +defenceless women at that unseasonable hour, when one of them +answered with the greatest unconcern, that the females whom I saw +were the King’s wives, who, having spoken their mind with too much +frankness in the royal presence an hour before, had been ordered by +their husband to make expiation for the offence by having their +throats cut,—that being considered as the mildest punishment which +could be inflicted for the consummation of so heinous a crime, by +the laws of Badagry; a punishment which none but Adólee’s +favourites ever underwent! Whilst the man was yet speaking, the +trembling criminals shrieked long and bitterly; but from exhaustion +their struggles were less vehement than before. At length I saw +their hands bound, next their feet; and lastly their heads, bent +forcibly backwards, by four of the ruffians, were held tightly by +the hair in that painful position. I then heard the poor creatures +utter their last thrilling cry of anguish, which caused my blood to +run cold in my veins, and a shudder to creep over every limb; and +at that moment, the gleam of the uplifted<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_248">[248]</span> daggers shot across my vision, and as quick +as lightning the poinards were buried in the throat and bosom of +each, severing the windpipe in their course. A faint gargling sound +like water issuing from the mouth of a bottle, was the only noise +produced; the ruthless assassins glided like spectres from before +my window, trailing their bleeding victims along the earth; and all +was as still and solemn as the grave, the moon alone (to my +imagination) blushing to be a spectatress of the atrocious +deed.</p> + +<p>As soon as this bloody tragedy had been enacted, the spell that +had bound me motionless to the window, dissolved, and, flinging +myself on my mat, I endeavoured to obtain a little repose, and calm +the agitation of my mind; but the dreadful scene I had witnessed +awakened a host of phantoms in my disordered imagination, and +obliged me to walk to and from the apartment till the morning, +when, on taking a stroll through the town, my eyes were saluted +with the revolting spectacle of the murdered women hanging on the +branches of the fetish-tree!</p> + +<p>The manners and ceremonies of the Badagrians,<span class= +"pagenum" id="Page_249">[249]</span> although they appeared so +simple and engaging to us whilst we continued amongst them, on +first leaving the Brazen, are without comparison the most rude and +barbarous of those of any of the people on the whole continent of +Africa. The murder of a slave is not considered even in the light +of a misdemeanor amongst them; and the frequency of this crime has +not only taken away all sense of its enormity, but steeled the +breasts of the multitude against every compassionate feeling; +whilst the king and government encourage savage principles and +pastimes by setting them the example.</p> + +<p>The following particulars were gleaned principally from personal +observation, whilst I remained in that city of blood, called by the +inhabitants Badàg (or Woman); and, in the absence of that source, +from repeated conversations held with the king, his eldest son, and +his great chiefs or generals, Bombanee, Poser, and Accra, whom I +questioned separately, and at different periods, concerning the +celebration of their sacrifices and other religious rites. I found +no discrepancies whatever in the information thus<span class= +"pagenum" id="Page_250">[250]</span> obtained; and, after I had +swallowed the fetish, the before-named individuals communicated +freely, and without suspicion, any thing connected with their +religion or manners that I evinced the slightest wish to have +explained.</p> + +<p>Badagry being a general mart for the sale of slaves to European +merchants, (who are now, I believe, almost exclusively confined to +agents belonging to the Portuguese nation,) it not unfrequently +happens that the market is either overstocked with human beings, or +no buyers are to be found; in which case the maintenance of the +unhappy slaves devolves solely on the government. The expense +incurred by this means is oftentimes murmured against by the king, +who shortly afterwards causes an examination to be made, when the +sickly, as well as the old and infirm, are carefully selected, and +chained by themselves in one of the factories, (five of which, +containing upwards of one thousand slaves of both sexes, were at +Badagry during my residence there,) and next day the majority of +these poor wretches are pinioned, and conveyed to the banks of the +river that runs<span class="pagenum" id="Page_251">[251]</span> up +the country, where, having arrived, a weight of some sort is +appended to their necks, and, being rowed in canoes to the middle +of the stream, they are flung into the water, and left to perish by +the pitiless Badagrians. Slaves who, for other reasons, are +rejected by the merchants, undergo the same punishment, or are left +to endure more lively torture at the sacrifices: by which means +hundreds of human beings are annually destroyed.</p> + +<hr class="chap"> + +<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_252">[252]</span><a id= +"c18"></a>CHAPTER XVIII.</h2> + +<hr class="decor width5"> + +<p class="csum">The Fetish-huts and tree at Badagry — Owing to the +insinuations of the Portuguese the Author is compelled by the +priests of the Fetish, to swallow bitter water, being the only +European that ever underwent that dreadful ordeal — His reflections +when informed of the circumstance — Astonishing preservation from +an expected cruel death — Sacrifices of human beings under the +branches of the Fetish-tree, exceeding in atrocity all previous +accounts — Song of the inhabitants with Adólee at their head, on +the occasion — The Author, on his visit to a Portuguese pirate, +discovers the sacred Fetish-tree of the Badagrians growing in the +heart of a forest, and covered with the dismembered corpses of +human beings — Remarks on the Portuguese.</p> + +<p><span class="sc">In</span> the private fetish-hut of the King +Adólee, at Badagry, the skull of that monarch’s father is preserved +in a clay vessel, placed in the earth. Human blood, as well as the +blood of birds and beasts, is occasionally sprinkled on it; and +when the king goes to war, that same skull is invariably carried +with him, with which he frequently converses,<span class="pagenum" +id="Page_253">[253]</span> and gently rebukes it, if his success +does not happen to answer his expectations. “If this custom be +neglected,” said Adólee, “the virtues and martial energy of my +deceased father would cease to influence my actions, and defeat and +disgrace would attend all my warlike undertakings.” The people of +Badagry regard this skull with the same veneration as the Turks do +the sacred banner of their Prophet; and believe, that should it be +missed through any casualty, or captured by the enemy, the destiny +of their prince would be sealed for ever, and the pillars of their +monarchy crumble into dust, so that they would no longer be a +people!</p> + +<p>There is another fetish-hut at Badagry, the interior of which is +positively ornamented with rows of human skulls, and other emblems +of mortality, whitened by time, and having a most terrific +appearance. In this Pagan sanctuary all suspected persons go +through the ordeal of bitter (poisonous) water, in order to +ascertain their guilt or innocence; and death, which in almost all +cases ensues shortly after the prisoner receives the fatal draught +into his stomach, is<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_254">[254]</span> considered by the people as a sure +criterion of the former; whilst, if the culprit has the good +fortune to escape with life, which rarely happens, he is pronounced +free of the allegations brought against him, and immediately +acquitted.</p> + +<p>At a short distance from this gloomy hut stands a fetish-tree, +on the branches of which the headless bodies of human beings, +slaughtered under them, are invariably suspended.</p> + +<p>I did not think, as I strolled one day to the spot, and +scrutinized the exterior of the fetish-hut, that I myself was so +shortly to enter its doors, and be tried with bitter water by its +inexorable priests, in order to prove whether I was a good or bad +man, a friend or foe to their nation!</p> + +<p>But the calumnies of the Portuguese had recently begun to +display their effects very strikingly; Adólee had latterly behaved +in a cold and distant manner to me; and his chiefs studiously +shunned my presence whenever they observed me approaching them.</p> + +<p>One morning, as I was taking my solitary breakfast of palm oil +and Indian corn, I was startled by a message from the king, +commanding<span class="pagenum" id="Page_255">[255]</span> me to +repair at noon-tide to the fetish-hut, and be examined by the +priests, who would be there assembled, to answer certain charges +that would be brought against me. I was well aware in what manner +my trial was to be conducted; and I could not forbear exclaiming to +myself, as I mused on the dreadful fate which I imagined awaited +me: “Well, then, here will be an end to my wanderings and my life; +yet, having escaped so many dangers, and encountered such grievous +afflictions, it is hard, after all, to cast off the fardel of +existence thus prematurely; it is hard, when almost within hearing +of my countrymen, that my life should be destroyed; that my skull +should be preserved as a trophy by heartless savages, and my body +be devoured by ravens and other birds of prey.” As I was making +this saddening, and perhaps unmanly soliloquy, tears rushed +involuntarily into my eyes, but, hastily wiping them off, I +employed the little time allotted me in making my peace with +Heaven, so that when the fellows came to conduct me to the +fetish-hut, I was calm and collected, and prepared to undergo the +severest<span class="pagenum" id="Page_256">[256]</span> punishment +which the power of man could inflict upon me.</p> + +<p>The news of the white man’s arrest, and approaching trial, +spread like wild-fire through the town, and the inhabitants, +assembling from all parts, armed with axes, spears, clubs, and bows +and arrows, followed the procession to the dismal spot. On entering +the hut, I beheld a number of priests and elders of the people, +seated in a circle, who desired me to stand in the midst of them. +When I had complied with their request, one of the priests arose, +and presenting me with a bowl, containing about a quart of a clear +liquid, scarcely distinguishable from water, cried out in a loud +voice, and with much emphasis, “You are accused, white man, of +designs against our king and his government, and are therefore +desired to drink the contents of this vessel, which, if the reports +to your prejudice be true, will surely destroy you; whereas, if +they be without foundation, you need not fear, Christian; the +fetish will do you no injury, for our gods will do that which is +right.”</p> + +<div class="figcenter iw2"><span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_257">[257]</span> +<figure id="i7"><a href="images/i7_large.jpg"><img src= +'images/i7.jpg' alt="Ordeal by Poison" title= +"Ordeal by Poison"></a> +</figure> +</div> + +<p>I took the bowl in my trembling hand, and gazed for a moment on +the sable countenances of my judges; but not a single look of +compassion shone upon any of them; a dead silence prevailed in the +gloomy sanctuary of skulls; every eye was intently fixed upon me; +and seeing no possibility of escape, or of evading the piercing +glance of the priests and elders, I offered up, internally, a short +prayer to the Throne of Mercy,—to the God of Christians,—and +hastily swallowed the fetish, dashing the poison-chalice to the +ground. A low murmur ran through the assembly;<span class="pagenum" +id="Page_258">[258]</span> they all thought I should instantly have +expired, or at least have discovered symptoms of severe agony, but +detecting no such tokens, they arose simultaneously, and made way +for me to leave the hut. On getting into the open air, I found my +poor slaves in tears; they had come, they said, to catch a last +glimpse of their master; but when they saw me alive and at liberty, +they leaped and danced for joy, and prepared a path for me through +the dense mass of armed people. These, set up an astounding shout +at my unexpected appearance, and seemed greatly pleased, (if I +might be allowed to judge,) that I had not fallen a victim to the +influence of their fearful fetish. On arriving at my dwelling, I +took instant and powerful means to eject the venomous potion from +my stomach, and happily succeeded in the attempt.</p> + +<p>I was told that the liquid I had swallowed was a decoction of +the bark of a tree abounding in the neighbourhood, and that I was +the only individual who, for a long season, had escaped its +poisonous qualities. It had a disagreeably bitter taste, but I +experienced no other ill effects from it than a slight dizziness, +which wore off<span class="pagenum" id="Page_259">[259]</span> +completely a few hours after the conclusion of the trial.</p> + +<p>The dreadful charm having been thus providentially broken, all +the cold reserve and stiffness of Adólee and his chiefs suddenly +disappeared; and they visited me voluntarily a few days afterwards +with presents of provisions, &c. observing frequently that the +Portuguese were wicked men, but that I was a good man, under the +special protection of the white man’s God, who would suffer no evil +to come near me. The Houssa mallams were also permitted to +introduce themselves into my society; neither did they come +empty-handed, so that I scarcely regretted having drunk the fetish; +for instead of suffering and death, from which I had not +entertained even a hope of escaping, the most pleasing and +flattering results were the consequence of my conforming to the +customs of the inhabitants. On walking through the streets I was +pointed at as the wonderful man, whom it would be dangerous to +insult; my society was courted by all ranks; and from that hour my +reputation stood singularly high with the people of Badagry, to the +infinite chagrin of the<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_260">[260]</span> malicious Portuguese, who thus saw the +complete failure of their artfully laid plot, by the very means +which they had fondly hoped would have been the instruments of my +destruction.</p> + +<p>Thieves, and other offenders, together with the remnant of the +unpurchased slaves who are not drowned along with their companions +in misfortune and misery, are reserved by the Badagrians to +sacrifice to their gods; which horrid ceremony takes place at least +once a month. Prisoners taken in war are also immolated, to appease +the manes of the soldiers of Adólee slain in battle; and as, of all +atrocities, the manner in which these wretches are slaughtered is +the most barbarous, it may not perhaps be improper or ill-timed to +give a detailed account of it in this place. Each criminal being +conducted to the fetish-tree, a flask of rum is given him to drink, +whilst he is in the act of swallowing which a fellow steals +imperceptibly behind him, with a heavy club or bludgeon, and +inflicts a violent blow on the back of the head with the murderous +weapon, and, as it often happens, dashes out his brains; so that +the executioner has no occasion to repeat his stroke. The +senseless<span class="pagenum" id="Page_261">[261]</span> being is +then taken to the fetish-hut, and a calabash or gourd having been +previously got ready, the head is severed from the trunk with an +axe, and the smoking blood gurgles into it. Whilst this is in hand, +other wretches, furnished with knives, &c. cut and mangle the +body, in order to extract the heart entire from the breast, which +being done, although it be yet warm and quivering with life, it is +presented to the king first, and afterwards to his wives and +generals, who always attend at the celebration of these sacrifices; +and his majesty and suite making an incision in it with their +teeth, and partaking of the foamy blood, which is likewise offered, +the heart is exhibited to the surrounding multitude. From the +commencement of the proceedings under the tree, the chiefs begin to +sing or chaunt, the king’s wives and the spectators assisting and +joining in the chorus; and they never cease till the body, with its +head, heart, and blood, is borne from the spot, when the multitude +themselves take up the strain. The following lines will serve to +give an idea of the subject and nature of the song used on the +above occasions, which seldom, if ever, vary.</p> + +<h3><span class="pagenum" id="Page_262">[262]</span>SONG OF THE +BADAGRIANS AT THEIR HUMAN SACRIFICES.</h3> + +<div class="linegrp-container"> +<div class="linegrp"> +<div class="group"> +<div class="line indent0">When the blow the spirit lulls,</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Bear him to the “House of Skulls;”</div> + +<div class="line indent0">The calabash and gourd prepare—</div> + +<div class="line indent0">The knife, the axe, the bow, the +spear.</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Faintly sighs the gasping breath;</div> + +<div class="line indent0"><em>Agra’s</em> eye-lids close in +death!</div> + +<div class="line indent0">’Tis done! the headless trunk +remains,</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Bleeding from a thousand veins.</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Drink the blood! the heart-strings +tear!</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Wield the club, and shake the +spear!</div> +</div> + +<div class="group"> +<div class="line indent0 center"><em>Chorus.</em> +</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Drink the blood! the heart-strings +tear!</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Wield the club, and shake the +spear!</div> +</div> + +<div class="group"> +<div class="line indent0 center"><em>Song.</em> +</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Chieftains! where’s the foeman now?</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Death smiles grimly on his brow,</div> + +<div class="line indent0">And his quarter’d limbs shall be</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Food for vultures on our tree.</div> + +<div class="line indent0">King Adólee’s foes all must</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Bend the neck, and kiss the dust,</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Or, like Agra, they shall fall,</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Snatch’d from Mercy’s trembling +call.</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Drink the blood! the heart-strings +tear!</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Wield the club, and shake the +spear!</div> + +<div class="line indent0"><span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_263">[263]</span>Who so base to turn in fight?</div> + +<div class="line indent0">May his spirit sink in night—</div> + +<div class="line indent0">May a curse attend his ways—</div> + +<div class="line indent0">May Misfortune blast his days!</div> + +<div class="line indent0">But Badagrians will not swerve;</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Courage thrills in every nerve.</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Smite your foes, Badagrians! smite!</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Gleaming spears—resistless might—</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Bending bows—the arrows’ spring—</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Terror to your foemen bring.</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Drink the blood! the heart-strings +tear!</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Wield the club, and shake the +spear!</div> +</div> +</div> +</div> + +<p>The bleeding heart, after being bitten by the king, and his +principal wives and head men, is affixed to the point of a tall +spear, and, with the calabash of blood and headless body, paraded +through the town, and followed by hundreds of spearmen and a dense +crowd of people. Whoever may express an inclination to bite the +heart, or drink of the blood, has it immediately presented to him +for that purpose, the multitude dancing, and singing:</p> + +<div class="linegrp-container"> +<div class="linegrp"> +<div class="group"> +<div class="line indent0">As we gaze upon the slain,</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Courage mounts in every vein:</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Hearts of iron—breasts of steel</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Bold Badagrians reveal.</div> +</div> + +<div class="group"> +<div class="line indent0 center"><span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_264">[264]</span><em>People, from their Dwellings:</em> +</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Lo! the bleeding heart appears,</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Followed by a grove of spears;</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Show it here—‘to me,’—‘to me;’</div> + +<div class="line indent0">I long to taste, to feel, to see!</div> +</div> + +<div class="group"> +<div class="line indent0 center"><em>Spearmen:</em> +</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Yes! your foeman’s blood is warm;</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Trample on his ghastly form;</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Slake your thirst with living gore;</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Deeply drink; libations pour.</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Gods! accept the sacrifice,</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Of our great success the price.</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Drink we the blood! the heart-strings +tear!</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Wield the club, and shake the +spear!</div> +</div> + +<div class="group"> +<div class="line indent0 center"><em>All the people in chorus:</em> +</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Wield the club, and shake the +spear!</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Drink the blood! the heart-strings +tear!</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Terror, terror, terror, cling</div> + +<div class="line indent0">Round the foemen of our king!</div> +</div> +</div> +</div> + +<p>What remains of the heart is then flung to the dogs, and the +body, cut in pieces, is stuck on the fetish-tree, where it is left +till wholly devoured by birds of prey.</p> + +<p>Besides these butcheries, the Badagrians make a grand sacrifice, +once a year, under their<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_265">[265]</span> sacred fetish-tree, growing in a wood, a +few miles from the city. These are offered to their malevolent +Demon, or Spirit of Evil, at whose shrine hundreds of human beings +are annually immolated, their corpses undergoing the same horrid +process as that which has already been described; only in this +instance they are not removed from the spot, but quartered and hung +on the gigantic branches of the venerable tree; and the skulls of +the victims suffered to bleach in the sun round the trunk of +it.</p> + +<p>By accident I had an opportunity of seeing this much-talked-of +tree, a day or two only after the celebration of one of the grand +yearly sacrifices, and it was the most ghastly and appalling object +which I had ever beheld. I was informed in the town one day that a +Portuguese schooner had proceeded along the coast towards the Bight +of Benin, and was then lying at <em>Adjeedore</em>, which is about +fourteen miles from Badagry. Of course I was anxious to get out of +the country, by any means, as quickly as possible, for, as may be +supposed, I was heartily and completely tired of my +long<span class="pagenum" id="Page_266">[266]</span> residence in +it, and eagerly grasped at even the shadow of an opportunity that +promised to bring about so desirable a good. I resolved, at any +rate, to have an interview with the captain of the schooner; and, +for this purpose, taking Pasko and Jowdie with me, one cloudless +morning I proceeded to Adjeedore. The path leading to the place, +however, winding through a thick wood, and being crossed by other +roads in all directions, we struck out of the right one into +another; and journeyed onwards without discovering our error for +some time afterwards. We had not advanced many miles into the +country before our noses were saluted with the most overpowering +effluvia, like those exhaled from putrid substances; but, +notwithstanding this warning, it did not occur to me at the time +that the sacred fetish-tree of the Badagrians lay in that +direction. The air became more strongly impregnated the further we +proceeded; till at length it was wholly insupportable, and I was +obliged to cover my mouth and nose with a thick handkerchief, which +relieved, in some measure, its disagreeable effects, We had +travelled in this<span class="pagenum" id="Page_267">[267]</span> +manner, as nearly as I could guess, about half way to the place of +our destination, or seven miles from Badagry, when the so much +dreaded fetish-tree suddenly burst upon my sight, its enormous +branches literally covered with fragments of human bodies, and its +majestic trunk surrounded by irregular heaps of hideous skulls, +which had been suffered to accumulate for many years previously. It +was standing in the centre of a large piece of open ground in the +heart of the forest; and was actually the largest tree I had ever +seen. Thousands of vultures, which had been scared away by our +unwelcome intrusion, were yet hovering round and over their +disgusting food, and now and then pouncing fearlessly upon a +half-devoured arm or leg. Although scenes of horror had become +habitual and familiar to me, my feelings, nevertheless, were not +entirely blunted, and I encountered a more violent shock, whilst +staring at the overwhelming scene, than I ever before experienced. +I stood as if fascinated to the spot by the influence of a torpedo, +and stupidly gazed on the ghastly spectacle before me, without the +power of withdrawing<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_268">[268]</span> my sight to more agreeable objects, or even +of moving hand or foot.</p> + +<p>The huge branches of the fetish-tree, groaning beneath their +burden of human flesh and bones, and sluggishly waving in +consequence of the hasty retreat of the birds of prey; the intense +and almost insufferable heat of a vertical sun; the intolerable +odour of the corrupt corpses; the heaps of human heads, many of +them apparently staring at me from hollows which had once sparkled +with living eyes; the awful stillness and solitude of the place, +disturbed only by the sighing of the conscious wind through the +sombre foliage, or at intervals by the frightful screaming of +voracious vultures, as they flapped their sable wings almost in my +face—all tended to overpower me; my heart sickened within my bosom, +a dimness came over my eyes, an irrepressible quivering agitated my +whole frame, my legs refused to support me, and, turning my head, I +fell senseless into the arms of Jowdie, my faithful slave! Pasko +assisted to bear me away from the scene of blood; and the two +blacks emptying a calabash of water they had brought with them +on<span class="pagenum" id="Page_269">[269]</span> my head, face, +and breast, I slowly revived, and after a slight refreshment, +pursued my journey by another path.</p> + +<p>On reaching Adjeedore, I did indeed meet with the vessel I had +been informed of at Badagry; but the ferocious appearance of her +crew startled me not a little. The men were a mixture of Portuguese +and Brazilians, completely armed with pistols, cutlasses, and +dirks; and each furnished with a long black beard, which +heightened, perhaps, the fierceness of their looks. The Captain +(Don Pedro he called himself,) received me politely; and after I +had made him acquainted with my errand, which was simply to ask if +he had any objection to convey me and my slaves to Cape Coast +Castle without delay, he took me into his cabin, and treated me +with the best his ship afforded. In the course of our conversation +I thought he was rather too inquisitive as to the amount of +property I had at Badagry; but this, I concluded, arose from a +spirit of curiosity, rather than from any other reason. Every +arrangement having been entered into to the apparent satisfaction +of both<span class="pagenum" id="Page_270">[270]</span> parties, I +shook hands with the Captain, and towards evening returned to +Badagry. On making inquiries in the town next day, I learnt from +the Portuguese that the said Don Pedro was a noted pirate who had +infested the seas for a long period previously, and that his sole +intention, after getting me and my property on board his vessel, +was to compel me to “walk the plank,”<a id= +"FNanchor_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> and +by that means secure the latter to himself. Although I was disposed +to doubt the asseverations of these men, who I well knew bore me no +good will, yet Adólee confirmed their testimony; besides which I +had myself heard of the existence of a pirate in the neighbourhood +some weeks before; and the dubious appearance of Don Pedro and his +bearded crew, certainly tended to strengthen instead of dissipating +a suspicion that the pirate and the Captain were one and the same +individual. Agreeably to promise, Don Pedro paid me a visit on the +following Monday, to ascertain<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_271">[271]</span> how long it would be before I should be +ready to embark; but I frankly acquainted him with my change of +resolution, and my reasons for adopting that alteration in my +intentions; on hearing which he appeared thunderstruck, and, +instead of attempting to clear his character of the aspersion cast +upon it, contented himself with calling his countrymen, the +Portuguese, by a variety of hard names. Rising abruptly a few +minutes afterwards, he bade me a hasty adieu, and I never saw or +heard any thing more of the piratical captain, Don Pedro.</p> + +<p>I turned my thoughts with greater warmth than ever to my native +country, after swallowing the fetish; but so effectually had the +rascally slave merchants performed the base part they had laid down +for themselves, that although I repeatedly offered a tempting +reward, no one was found bold enough to brave their resentment by +proceeding in a canoe to Cape Coast Castle, and informing my +countrymen that an Englishman was at Badagry. The Portuguese not +only shut the portal of hope in that direction, but, when they +found their malicious designs so<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_272">[272]</span> completely counteracted, actually +threatened to take my life in the hearing of Adólee, who, on +acquainting me with the circumstance, said, that although I bore a +charmed existence as far as regarded my dealing with black people, +that virtue did not extend to persons of the same hue and religion +as myself; and he therefore strongly advised me never to leave my +dwelling unarmed, for that the Portuguese would assuredly embrace +the first opportunity of carrying their menace into effect. The +intensity of my misfortunes had not entirely deadened the principle +of self-preservation that resided within my bosom, particularly +when so near my escape from all; and the information which the king +gratuitously imparted to me, gave me considerable uneasiness, and +filled me with groundless suspicions. Damocles was not more unhappy +on beholding the sword suspended over his head by a single hair in +the palace of Dionysius, than was I whilst I remained at Badagry. +All was apprehension and anxiety on my part; and as if positive +calamities had not been enough to afflict and sadden me, imaginary +dangers crossed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_273">[273]</span> my +path, and lent their aid to render my days superlatively miserable. +Obliged to take numberless precautions for the safety of my person, +I was a prey to fear and unceasing inquietude, and was a stranger +to a moment’s ease.</p> + +<p>I was met in the streets one day by a Portuguese, whom I +considered more friendly-disposed towards me than his vicious +coadjutors; and after chatting a few minutes, he invited me to go +along with him to his habitation. On entering it, I found the whole +of his countrymen assembled, drinking grog; and all hands appeared +to be obstreperously merry. A glass of spirit was immediately +poured out for my acceptance, which they urgently pressed me to +drink; and on my refusal, I observed them laying their heads +together, and conversing earnestly in whispers, pointing every now +and then to the dirks stuck in their belts. My suspicions, ever +alive, immediately caught the alarm at these significant +proceedings; and looking wistfully round, I attempted in vain to +steal unobserved from the society of my disagreeable companions. +Seeing, therefore, no other resource, I told the<span class= +"pagenum" id="Page_274">[274]</span> Portuguese, in as bold a tone +as I could command, that my presence being required at home, it was +absolutely necessary that I should immediately quit their +<em>social</em> circle and repair thither. They all arose on my +making this declaration; and I saw their right hands inclining +instinctively towards their belts. Following their example, I laid +my left hand on the hilt of a dagger concealed in my bosom, and +with the other grasped a loaded pistol that was appended to my +waist. In this manner, we eyeing each other with mutual distrust, I +retreated backwards out of the apartment; and felt the burden that +had oppressed me suddenly relieved, on being again at liberty.</p> + +<p>I mention this little incident simply to give an idea how +greatly my mind was harassed by a host of vexatious circumstances +combined, which, taken singly, would only serve as matter for +pleasant raillery. But whom had I to make merry with at Badagry? I +looked around me in vain for a single being to share my confidence +there; and my wandering mind, flung back upon its own resources, +encouraged only perplexing doubts, vague suspicious, and +saddening<span class="pagenum" id="Page_275">[275]</span> +reflections to arise within me, and caused me to misconstrue every +word and deed of both friends and enemies; in fact it was utterly +impossible to prevent such unpleasant sensations having +considerable influence over all my thoughts and actions.</p> + +<hr class="chap"> + +<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_276">[276]</span><a id= +"c19"></a>CHAPTER XIX.</h2> + +<hr class="decor width5"> + +<p class="csum">Captain Laing, of the brig Maria, of London, +hearing that an Englishman is at Badagry, comes from Whydah to +fetch the Author — His reflections on leaving Badagry, and on +reaching the British vessel — The Maria sails for Cape Coast, where +the Author lands, and is taken on board the Esk sloop of war, which +vessel sails for England — Tale of the turtles — Arrival in +England, &c.</p> + +<p>I <span class="sc">had</span> heard it rumoured some days before +that an English vessel had been seen trading on the coast, and I +waited with trembling anxiety and a palpitating heart till accident +might make her captain acquainted with the circumstance of my being +shut up in Badagry. My most flattering anticipations were amply +realized, for on the 20th of January, two months after my arrival, +a fellow came running in breathless haste towards me, with a letter +and a bottle of gin from the master of a British vessel then +lying<span class="pagenum" id="Page_277">[277]</span> off the town, +directed to “The Englishman at Badagry.” No one can express the +pleasure that thrilled through every nerve, as I was perusing lines +traced by the fingers of a countryman, and containing the +transporting intelligence that “Captain Laing,<a id= +"FNanchor_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> of +the brig Maria of London, hearing that a white man was resident at +Badagry, and strongly suspecting that he must belong to the African +Mission of exploration under Captain Clapperton, had come from +Whydah, and would feel pleasure, if such proved to be the case, in +being serviceable to him in any manner that might be suggested, or +in transporting him to a British settlement on the coast.” Scarcely +knowing what I did, and almost beside myself with joy, I wrote a +hasty scrawl of thanks to the generous Englishman; and, desiring +Pasko and the slaves to get every thing in readiness for starting +immediately,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_278">[278]</span> I paid +my respects to the king, and his wives and chiefs, and bade them a +last farewell.</p> + +<p>Returning instantly to my habitation, I left the town of +Badagry, and bent my way directly for the beach. My heart bounded +within me at sight of the proud banner of my country, streaming +from the stately mast of the Maria; and a signal being made, a boat +was without loss of time despatched to my assistance. I was soon on +the water; and as the little bark moved swiftly towards the ship, +although my appearance was pitiable in the extreme, the yards were +instantly ordered to be manned, and three tremendous cheers from +the throats of British seamen, welcomed me once more to the dear +society of my gallant countrymen. This was ravishing melody in my +ears; it was the happiest, most rapturous moment of my life. I +hastily climbed the sides of the vessel, and springing delighted +upon the conscious deck, returned thanks to the Almighty for my +preservation, and shook hands heartily with the captain and crew. +But as sudden and violent transport is seldom lasting, so I could +not help reflecting, a<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_279">[279]</span> very few minutes afterwards, how different, +how <em>very</em> different had been my feelings in the same place +about two years before;—so nearly is joy allied to sorrow, pleasure +to pain, cheerfulness to melancholy. As a noble tree, growing in +strength, and flourishing in beauty, is suddenly blasted by +lightning, which scathes its verdant foliage, and destroys the +vital principle; even so had I seen a party of British officers, +proud as their native rocks, wither and die. They had planted their +feet on African soil full of fine spirit and noble enthusiasm, +scoffing at peril, and determined to overcome every human obstacle +that might arrest their progress in the accomplishment of their +hazardous undertaking, that great object of their ambition, to +which the eyes of millions were directed. A few months only had +elapsed, when their elevated hopes and buoyant feelings were +quenched in darkness; their manly frames shrivelled like the tree, +from irremediable causes; till, unable longer to “drag their slow +length along,” they had languished and fallen, and the sound of +their voices was heard no more—they had resigned their<span class= +"pagenum" id="Page_280">[280]</span> burden of life, sorrow, and +suffering; and were transplanted to that unknown country where “the +wicked cease from troubling, and the weary are at rest.” I, of all, +was left to tell the sorrowful tale to their countrymen. I had +certainly cause for self-gratulation at the almost miraculous +preservation of my own life; but I had also matter for gloomy +reflections in the mournful fate of so many brave and enterprising +British officers, who had died prematurely in a savage land; and I +sighed when the Maria sailed from Badagry, to look back on departed +times, and recall the hearty, thoughtless merriment that burst +vociferously from the hearts of the dauntless Englishmen an evening +or two preceding their landing at that place; nor could I refrain +from asking myself: “And where is their merriment; where is their +laughter, now?”</p> + +<p>On arriving at Cape Coast, I was received in the most cordial +manner by the Governor, Colonel Lumley (since dead), and the +British merchants then in the place, with whom I dined, and who +vied with each other in showing me<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_281">[281]</span> every mark of kindness and respect. As soon +as they learnt my arrival, the Houssa inhabitants flocked around +me, and were delighted that a white man could converse with them in +their own language; which feeling was infinitely increased by my +assuring their sceptical companions that Houssa was a good land—for +even in the breasts of these rude Africans a love of country was +not the least distinguishable sentiment. These poor people stood +with mouths open, to be informed of what was transacting in the +land of their birth; and were variously agitated, in proportion as +the accounts were of a good or bad nature.</p> + +<p>At Cape Coast I gave my faithful slaves, Aboudah, Jowdie, and +Pasko’s wife, their freedom; but when they were made acquainted +with the fact that the boon offered them was on condition of their +remaining behind, they could not conceal their disappointment and +regret, and were unwilling to accept it, saying it was the greatest +evil that could befall them. They came to me in a body on the +morning of my departure, making the air ring with their +lamentations;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_282">[282]</span> and, +covering their heads with sand and dust, they intreated me with +tears to take them with me to my country. I consoled the poor +creatures as well as I could, with the hope of seeing them again in +a couple of months; and they left me in better spirits. Colonel +Lumley, with the most laudable generosity, presented each of them +with a sum of money and a plot of ground, with which they built +huts for themselves, and formed their land into gardens; so that +they can now boast of greater comfort and convenience than most of +their emancipated countrymen residing on the coast.</p> + +<p>On the 13th of February, I embarked with Pasko on board the Esk +sloop of war, Captain Purchase, which set sail the same day for +Fernando Po, where I had a long interview with Major Denham, the +only survivor of the previous mission of discovery (but since +deceased), who expressed infinite concern to hear of the fate of +his coadjutor in that expedition.</p> + +<p>The Esk visited the island of St. Helena, (where I landed, with +others, to see the tomb of Bonaparte,) and that of Ascension, from +whence<span class="pagenum" id="Page_283">[283]</span> a number of +huge turtles was taken on board; and afterwards we sailed direct +for England.</p> + +<p>During the voyage, finding it impossible to sleep in a seaman’s +hammock, in consequence of having been accustomed, for so long a +period to repose on hard mats, an awning was prepared for me upon +the deck of the vessel, under which I lay down every night; and +slept soundly till the arrival of the Esk at Portsmouth on the 30th +of April. Whether it was owing to change of air, or alteration of +diet, or both of these causes combined, I know not, but I became +exceedingly ill on ship-board, which continued some time after my +arrival in England; and this, together with intermittent fever and +general debility, damped considerably the joy I should otherwise +have felt on placing my foot once more on British soil.</p> + +<p>After our catching the turtle at Ascension, to which I have +already alluded, some of them had the misfortune to die, and their +companions in confinement and misery were hourly expected to follow +their example; insomuch that the captain ordered their eyes to be +bathed in water<span class="pagenum" id="Page_284">[284]</span> +morning and evening, as the only means of preserving the poor +creatures’ lives. This cleanly and responsible office was proposed +for my acceptance; but could I, who had so recently shaken hands +with majesty, and lodged in the palaces of kings; who had been +waited on by the queen of Boussa, and walked delighted with the +proud princess of Nyffé; could I, who might have become the master +of a thousand slaves, and lord of the high-minded and lovely Zuma; +who had been solicited to wed the daughters of a mighty monarch, as +well as become premier of his Councils and commander-in-chief of +his armies;—could I so suddenly fall from the towering elevation to +which my consequence had raised me, forget all my dignity and all +my laurels, and descend to the menial, grovelling occupation of +washing the filthy eyes of turtles? Surely, no. But for the first +time I <em>felt</em> that I was amongst my good-for-nothing +countrymen; that the astonishing “Nassarah Curramee” of Africa, the +god, the prophet, the enchanter, had degenerated into the simple +Richard Lander of former years; and that all my glory +and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_285">[285]</span> all my +consequence had vanished into air. Alas!</p> + +<div class="linegrp-container"> +<div class="linegrp"> +<div class="group"> +<div class="line indent0">“See how the mighty shrink into a +song!”</div> +</div> +</div> +</div> + +<p class="nind">Well, I put the best face upon the matter that I +could assume, and respectfully insinuated that, considering myself +in the light of a passenger, I did not think it to be altogether +honorable that so disagreeable a task should be imposed upon me in +particular; and that although no one could feel a more lively +degree of sorrow for the sufferings and forlorn condition of the +unfortunate animals in question than myself, the duty of +ministering to their wants, ought, in common fairness, to devolve +on a person of <em>less consideration</em>, and one on whose +services they had a more lawful claim than on mine. My scruples +were respected, and the turtles died!</p> + +<p>On arriving in London, I was met in the streets by a Jew, who +ran forth and cordially embraced me, asking how I had left our +Hebrew brethren in Jerusalem. The fellow, by my beard, and singular +appearance, had taken it into his head that I belonged to his own +fraternity, and was just returned from visiting the holy city; but, +being convinced of his ludicrous<span class="pagenum" id= +"Page_286">[286]</span> mistake, my affectionate would-be brother +sneaked off without further “<em>palavering</em>;” and I hastened +to my late master’s agents, Messrs. Evans and Eaton, George-street, +Adelphi. Agreeably to the Captain’s dying injunction, his uncle, +Col. Clapperton, was sent for; but that officer being in the +country, did not arrive in time; and I thought it advisable that a +private gentleman (Mr. M‘Gougan), my master’s esteemed friend, +should accompany me to the Colonial office in his stead. In the +presence of this individual I deposited my charge safely in the +hands of the Secretary, together with the gold and silver +watches—without having lost a single article from the moment I left +Soccatoo, twelve months previously, although I had travelled +throughout the most violent rainy season that had been remembered +by the natives for many years. Pasko was sent back to his wife at +Cape Coast Castle, but not till, after much entreaty, I had given +him permission to pay his addresses also to Aboudah, the young +woman the prince of Zeg Zeg had offered me for a spouse;—whilst I, +when I had<span class="pagenum" id="Page_287">[287]</span> remained +in the metropolis three or four weeks, in order to prepare a rough +copy of my journal, returned to my friends at Truro, in Cornwall, +after an absence from them of nearly thirteen years.</p> + +<hr class="chap"> + +<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_289">[289]</span><a id= +"app"></a><span class="letter-spaced01">APPENDI</span>X.</h2> + +<hr class="decor width5"> + +<p class="center"><em>A Vocabulary of the Short Phrases of the +Houssa Tongue.</em> +</p> + +<table class="vocab" id="t289"> +<tr> +<th><em>English.</em> +</th> +<th><em>Houssa.</em> +</th> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>One</td> +<td>Deah.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Two</td> +<td>Bew.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Three</td> +<td>Booko.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Four</td> +<td>Foodo.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Five</td> +<td>Beaha</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Six</td> +<td>Shedah.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Seven</td> +<td>Buckevee.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Eight</td> +<td>Togus.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Nine</td> +<td>Farra.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Ten</td> +<td>Gomma.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Eleven</td> +<td>Gommashadeah.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Twelve</td> +<td>Gommashabew.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Thirteen</td> +<td>Gommashahooko.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Fourteen</td> +<td>Gommashafoodo.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td><span class="pagenum" id="Page_290">[290]</span>Fifteen</td> +<td>Gommashabeah.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Sixteen</td> +<td>Gommashashidah.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Seventeen</td> +<td>Gommashabuckwee.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Eighteen</td> +<td>Gommashatogus.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Nineteen</td> +<td>Gommashatarra.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Twenty</td> +<td>Ashareen.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Thirty</td> +<td>Thallateen.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Forty</td> +<td>Harbine.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Fifty</td> +<td>Humpseen.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Sixty</td> +<td>Setteen.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Seventy</td> +<td>Sabine.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Eighty</td> +<td>Tissine.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Ninety</td> +<td>Tamaneene.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>One Hundred</td> +<td>Duree.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>One Thousand</td> +<td>Zumbrudayah.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdc word-spaced6 strike"> </td> +<td class="tdc word-spaced6 strike"> </td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>One day</td> +<td>Gunah deah.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>One month</td> +<td>Wâtah deah.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>This minute</td> +<td>Yonsoo.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Silver</td> +<td>Zinnariyea.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Gold</td> +<td>Hasraffa.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Brass</td> +<td>Becken Murraffee.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Beads</td> +<td>Dushee.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Salt</td> +<td>Gesharie.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>A woman’s girdle</td> +<td>Zanié.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>A rogue</td> +<td>Mogue.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>The sun</td> +<td>Ramah.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td><span class="pagenum" id="Page_291">[291]</span>The moon</td> +<td>Wâttah.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>The stars</td> +<td>Dula.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Morning</td> +<td>De Saffey.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Noon</td> +<td>Rangah.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Night</td> +<td>Nooway.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Day</td> +<td>Yow.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>A box</td> +<td>Sundook.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Wild (a.)</td> +<td>Dowah.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>An antelope</td> +<td>Naming.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>A needle</td> +<td>Allurah.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>A looking glass</td> +<td>Mydubee.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>A knife</td> +<td>Hooker.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>A sword</td> +<td>Tacobee.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>A gun</td> +<td>Bindegah.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Curdled milk squeezed and dried in the sun—a kind of +cheese</td> +<td>Chuckkumarra.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>To-morrow morning early</td> +<td>Sigovey da Saffey.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Go on as fast as you can for there are robbers in the path</td> +<td>Tuffee muzzah muzzah acqui mugo chiken talabah.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Sweep the house</td> +<td>Bally gidah.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Wash my shirt</td> +<td>Wankee regar.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Mix a little flour and water</td> +<td>Damma mossa fouro du boo.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Bring my mat into the hut</td> +<td>Kow shimpidah chiken giddah.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td><span class="pagenum" id="Page_292">[292]</span>Any river</td> +<td>Golabee.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>The river Niger</td> +<td>Golabee Quarra.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Put the baggage on the camel</td> +<td>Sadu kiah besah du ba comme.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>A wild hog</td> +<td>Mugen dowah.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Soldiers of the Sultan</td> +<td>Doggalee du Sulakee.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>The Sultan’s slaves</td> +<td>Bowah de Sulakee.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>I am going to my house</td> +<td>Ne tuffee giddah.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>There are fine horses for sale in the market</td> +<td>Acqui dorkee nuggree chikeen caswâh.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>What’s the news?</td> +<td>Ah fiel—ah bour on donnaih.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Nothing particular, all’s well</td> +<td>Baboo coome sa laf fare.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>There is war on the road near the city of Kano</td> +<td>Acqui yiki chikeen tulabah couso bernee Kano.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Against whom are the people of Kano fighting? Against the sons +of dogs and unbelievers?</td> +<td>Menenee mutanee birnee Kano yikee yon zu duncollen +Caffrée?</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Who’s there</td> +<td>Maneni acka?</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>I do not know</td> +<td>Ba sanni ba.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Tell him that I should like to see him</td> +<td>Fuddee moossa nee shee nashá dubàah.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>What’s this town called?</td> +<td>Whaso neen du bernee?</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>It is the town of Catshenah</td> +<td>Bernee Catsheenah.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td><span class="pagenum" id="Page_293">[293]</span>O dear, O dear, +O dear, it’s very warm to-day</td> +<td>Ki, ki, ki, zafey yow.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>I will take a ride in the East to-morrow</td> +<td>Ni how dorkee tuffee gubu Sigovey.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>How many days’ journey is it from hence to Kano</td> +<td>Quanah nowah ranah acka bernee Kano?</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>There is much water in the path</td> +<td>Acqui rowah chikeen talabah daywowa.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p class="center med space-above2 space-below2">THE END.</p> + +<hr class="decor width8"> + +<p class="center"><span class="small">J. B. NICHOLS AND +SON,</span><br> +<span class="med">25, Parliament Street.</span> +</p> + +<p class="x-ebookmaker-drop space-above2"> +</p> + +<div class="footnotes"> +<h2>FOOTNOTES:</h2> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="Footnote_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1"><span class= +"label">[1]</span></a>Thus the hieroglyphical message of the +Scythian Ambassador, who, without making any comment, presented +Darius with five arrows, a bird, a frog, and a mouse, is pretty +generally known. The Chief of the Narraghanset Indians also made +himself understood, by sending the first settlers of New England a +rattlesnake’s skin stuffed with arrows. This was answered as +intelligibly by the settlers returning the same skin filled with +powder and bullets.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="Footnote_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2"><span class= +"label">[2]</span></a>A venerable man in Wow Wow, whose sable locks +had changed to grey, a sure sign, amongst the Africans, either of +severe distress or extreme old age.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="Footnote_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3"><span class= +"label">[3]</span></a>Nasarah Curramee (Little Christian), an +appellation by which I was generally known in Africa, on account of +my diminutive stature.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="Footnote_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4"><span class= +"label">[4]</span></a>A shrub from the seeds of which the natives +extract the deadly venom in which the points of their arrows are +invariably dipped.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="Footnote_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5"><span class= +"label">[5]</span></a><span class="sc">Bebbo</span>.—Great or big +white man. Captain Clapperton was generally known in Africa as +<em>bebba</em>; and I, a <em>curramee</em> (little).</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="Footnote_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6"><span class= +"label">[6]</span></a>The inhabitants of Katunga, and indeed all +the Yaribeans, are persuaded that when the dead awake from their +long sleep, they will need companions and servants in the other +world; and, on the strength of this belief, at the burial of any +person of consequence, many of his friends swallow poison, and, +with a number of slaves that are slain for the purpose, are inhumed +in the same grave as the deceased.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="Footnote_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7"><span class= +"label">[7]</span></a>Neither Mansolah, nor any of his subjects, +would believe but that Captain Clapperton came to his death by +violent means.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="Footnote_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8"><span class= +"label">[8]</span></a>Seamen, when captured by pirates, are +sometimes compelled to walk blindfolded from a board into the sea, +and so left to perish. This is termed “walking the plank.”</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="Footnote_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9"><span class= +"label">[9]</span></a>Captain <em>Laing</em>, and not “Morrison,” +as mentioned by mistake in my printed Journal, conveyed me from +Badagry; and I take this opportunity of expressing my deep sense of +gratitude to that gentleman, for the very handsome treatment I +received at his hands, and the truly British feeling he displayed +after receiving me on board his vessel.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class="space-above2 x-ebookmaker-drop"> +</p> + +<div class="transnote"> +<h2>Transcriber's note:</h2> + +<ul> +<li>pg <a href="#Page_11">11</a> Changed: "he got into open gronnd" +to: "ground"</li> + +<li>pg <a href="#Page_14">14</a> Changed: "as in all ropical +countries" to: "tropical"</li> + +<li>pg <a href="#Page_21">21</a> Changed: "he money concerns of +the" to: "the money"</li> + +<li>pg <a href="#Page_45">45</a> Changed: "the diappointed Falatahs +boasted" to: "disappointed"</li> + +<li>pg <a href="#Page_46">46</a> Changed: "that they they did not +think it worth while" to: "that they did"</li> + +<li>pg <a href="#Page_88">88</a> Changed: "owing to the illnesss +of" to: "illness"</li> + +<li>pg <a href="#Page_104">104</a> Changed: "it will he recollected +Pasko" to: "be"</li> + +<li>pg <a href="#Page_176">176</a> Added missing line: "stirrups of +his horse’s saddle, is thrown from its back, and" after: "crossing +a river, in the"</li> + +<li>pg <a href="#Page_202">202</a> Changed: "Ebo did not uage his +request" to: "urge"</li> + +<li>pg <a href="#Page_207">207</a> Changed: "which state it is is +hawked through" to: "it is hawked"</li> + +<li>pg <a href="#Page_258">258</a> Changed: "who, for a ong season" +to: "long"</li> + +<li>pg <a href="#Page_291">291</a> Changed: "Abox" to: "A box"</li> + +<li>pg <a href="#Page_293">293</a> Changed: "a ride in thee East" +to: "the"</li> + +<li>New original cover art included with this eBook is granted to +the public domain.</li> +</ul> +</div> +</div> +<div style='text-align:center'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78092 ***</div> +</body> +</html> diff --git a/78092-h/images/cover.jpg b/78092-h/images/cover.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..10b5ad5 --- /dev/null +++ b/78092-h/images/cover.jpg diff --git a/78092-h/images/i2.jpg b/78092-h/images/i2.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3d360f2 --- /dev/null +++ b/78092-h/images/i2.jpg diff --git a/78092-h/images/i3.jpg b/78092-h/images/i3.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9519dc9 --- /dev/null +++ b/78092-h/images/i3.jpg diff --git a/78092-h/images/i4.jpg b/78092-h/images/i4.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c1ba10a --- /dev/null +++ b/78092-h/images/i4.jpg diff --git a/78092-h/images/i4_large.jpg b/78092-h/images/i4_large.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ba76f4c --- /dev/null +++ b/78092-h/images/i4_large.jpg diff --git a/78092-h/images/i5.jpg b/78092-h/images/i5.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e5e2ec8 --- /dev/null +++ b/78092-h/images/i5.jpg diff --git a/78092-h/images/i6.jpg b/78092-h/images/i6.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2659b2a --- /dev/null +++ b/78092-h/images/i6.jpg diff --git a/78092-h/images/i7.jpg b/78092-h/images/i7.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..79d6f41 --- /dev/null +++ b/78092-h/images/i7.jpg diff --git a/78092-h/images/i7_large.jpg b/78092-h/images/i7_large.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fbf983f --- /dev/null +++ b/78092-h/images/i7_large.jpg diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6c72794 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This book, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..1de9735 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for eBook #78092 +(https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/78092) |
